Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-03-21

cunning artisans convert them into finished
products and ship them to all the markets
OF the world. Being of great trategfc i'm
pCrtance, large military garrison is main
tanned here. and the walls of the ancient
fort shelter arsenals filed with guns and
magazines filled with ammunition which
may be promptly distributed throughout the
empire on demand. 1t is the capital of one
OF the richest and most productive prov
inces, the headquarters of various depart
mentS of the government the residence of
large foreign colony, civil military and
commercial. 1t has the most learned native
pundts in India; it has extensive mission
airy stations and educational Institutions
and is the center and focus of learning ana
all forms of activity.
Persistent Peddlers.
a serious objection to Delhi and one of
which all travellers complain, Is the pestif-
erous peddlers who pursue them beyond the
limit of patience. We were advised by pao-
pie who know India not to buy anything
until We reached Delhi. because that city
has the best shops and the best bazaars
and produces the most attractive fabrics
jewelry and other articles which tourists
like to take home to their friends. And we
found within few moments after our ap-
pearance there that we would have no diff
Guilty in obtaining as many things as we
wanted. We arrived late a night, and
when we opened the doors of our chambers
the next morning we found crowd of
clamorng merchants in the corridor wait
ing to seize us as we came out. And wher
ever we went-in temples. palaces, parks
and in the streets-they followed us with
their wares tied up In bundles and slung
over their backs When we drove out to
THE Ridge" where the great battles took
place during the mutiny of 1857. to see
monument erected In memory of the vic
tins of Indian treachery, two enterpris-
ing merchants followed us in carriage
and interrupted our neditations by offering
silks. embroideries and brass work at prices
which they said were 20 per cent lower than
we would have to pay in the city.
When we went into the dining room of
the hotel we always had to pass through
throng Of these people. who thrust jeWelry.
ivory carvings. photographs embrolderies.
cashmere shawls. silks and other goods In
We drove through the streets they actually
ran at the sides of the carriage, keeping
pace with the horses until we drove them
of by brandishing parasols, umbrellas ana
similar weapons of defense. We could not
20 to a mosque or the museum without find
ing them there lying In walt for us, until we
became so exasperated that homicide would
have been justifiable. That Is the expert
ence of every traveller, especially Amefi-
cans who are all supposed to be million
aires. and many Of our fellow countrymen
spend their money so freely as to excite TIE
az arice of the Delhi trad men,
And indeed 1t Is true that their goods are
the most attractive. although their prices
are higher than you have to pay In the
smaller towns OF lnuld. where tiiey are Kiss
in demand.
On the Chandni Chauk.
The principal business section. called
Chsndni Chauk. which means Silver street,
has been frequently described as ons OF the
most picturesque and fascinating streets
in the world. 1t Is about mile long and
seveuty-hve feet broad. In the eentes are
two rows of trees. between which for sew
eraI hundred years was an aqueduct but 1t
is now filed up and its banks used as q
pathway. the principal promenade OF the
town. But a stranger cannot walk there
ir, peace. for within five minutes he Is hem
med in and his way is blocked by mer-
chants who rush out from the shops ON
beth sides with their hands filed with SAM
PIES of goods and business cards and In
pigeon English entreat you to stop and see
what they have for sale. Sometimes 1t IS
quite amusing when rival merchants Stun
Bile over each other In their frantic efforts
10 secure customers. but such unwelcome
attentions destroy the pleasure of VISIT
tn Delhi.
The shops ON both sides of the ChsndiIi
Chauk are full of the wonderful LOO and
metal work. tewelry. embroidery. enamel
rugs. hangings. brocades. shawls. leather
work. gems and carved ivory ahd wood.
Delhi has always bean famous for carvings,
and examples Of engraving on jade Of price,