The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-05-27

Correspondence of the Indianapolis Journal
NEW YORK, May 25.-Warm weather
has come at last and, with il, the oppor-
tunity to wear the filmy gowns that have
been in process of making during the
spring, That the greater number are over
elaborate cannot be denied. 1t is an age
of luxury and, apparently, any real sense
of art in matters sartorial is dead, or sleep
ing soundly as to give little evidence OF
existence. Yet, while all this is true be-
yond dispute there are some really at
tractive things to be seen and there do re-
main those dressmakers who remember
certain fundamental laws and refuse either
to overweight the individual or TO rob
fabrics of their effect by senselessly over
laying one thing with another, until only
curious effect remains, with beauty lost and
forgotten. Essentially the season is one
of daintiness and when some of the better
gowns are rightly they possess
charm difficult to resist, even while one
may deplore certain tendencies. Thin White
muslins made with frills and fiounces and
much lace are lovely in themselves and are
having great vogue, but why cannot the
girls who wear them leave the manner OF
the golf links with their sticks and walk
with something of the soft grace their
grandmothers knew? We have gained much
both in freedom and in health since the
day of the gowns we are copying to-day,
but is it all gain? Have we not lost a bit
of the attractively feminine which we
might have retained and which seems TO
belong by right with dropping shoulders.
full skirts and undersleeves? Strength and
health are boons beyond any price. But
fe - Sff-ida nd to ing he
arms like boy because, forsooth, we have
learned to swing the golf sticks with vigor.
TO tramp over hill and dale and TO enjoy
a sail in a stiff breeze as well as any man?
Rather would it not show an adaptable
spirit to do all these things and TO do
them WELL yet to be able to wear our 1880
gowns with true feminine grace and
to avoid the curious combinations
that now meet one at every turn.
Not for any consideration would l see girls
return to the era that held needlework
fine enough TO destroy human eyesiSht
desirable accomplishment. Among the
treasures of that olden time which still re-
main is a veil that for three generations
has been tenderly cared for and which was
worked by a girl bride of sixteen for her
trousseau. The foundation is fine net.
There is a border, at least ten inches wide,
and shows most intricate pattern worked
in and out of the mesh with fine thread
until roses and their leaves are formed
WnlIC the upper Is eIuDTOlucItu
little circles that give an all-over effect
As an heirloom 1t has untold value. Look
ing at il and noting the multitude of tiny
stitches, one can almost see the winsome
girl whose fingers wrought the marvel and
there comes keenly realizing sense of how
restricted life must have been, of the hours
of labor involved; the inevitable strain on
the eyes. Rather than see our girls of to-
day wasting the blessed sunshine, l
would be willing even to endure the stride
and the swinging arms; but is it necessary
hoe hot han III
low young eyes to be so strained, better
than to keep our girls shut up within
doors, to forget the many graces those
same needleWOrkerS knew, TO be aggressive
because we are active, masculine because
we love the open and delight in sun and
air. 1t has been said. and well said, that in
the changing fashions is to be read the his
tory of race development, but IL this be
true, one is inclined TO wonder little what
the verdict Of the future will be over pc
riod such as this when revived styles are
struggling with advanced theories and COM
binations curious and many are brought
about.
ATTRACTIVE LINEN SUITS.
Among the most attractive and most
sensible of the summer gowns seen upon
the street are the really fascinating suits
of linen in varying colors. The day when
! such costumes were sent to the tub belongs
to a far past. To-day the material is
treated after the manner of wool or silk,
and when soiled is sent to be dry cleaned.
AS a result we see many effects that
otherwise would be impossible. To-day 1
noted a suit of natural color with threads
of red forming an indistinct plaid that was
piped with black silk and made with
plated skirt and plated Elton worn over
full blouse of white lawn. The combina-
ton was singularly effective and the style
thoroughly good throughout, but washing
no more to be thought of than had the suit
been of silk. Light color, that is almost
cream or straw, fiecked with black. is
| essentially smart and is made with pip-
ings of silk and trimmings of braid. and
! many mercerized sorts are seen both in
| plain color and dotted in contrast with the
| ground. A suit made of the latter variety
| is eminently simple and eminently smart
1 and also is made with waist and skirt, SO
making variation from the numberless
/ jackets and blouse coats. The foundation
color is apple blue, the close set dots are
/ black and the trimming is pipings of black
/ silk with black silk buttons. The skirt is
simply gored and laid in three plaits al
each seam, which are piped and
are stitched fat above founce depth
but are allowed TO flare below. The waist
i Is a blouse with triple yoke and plastror
/ that extends well over the full sleeves and
/ is piped 10 match the skirt. Nothing simpler
well could be asked, yet the costume Is
charming in color. good in line and in every
way suited 10 its U.S.. Still another is made
! with the favorite blouse Eton combined
| with a skirt showing inverted box plat.
at all seams and is trimmed with braid and
| pearl buttons. no thought OF the tub havinE
| for an instant intruded itself into the de
| signer's mind. White suits. on the Other
| hand. are plain. often 10 severity. for Il
/ the laundry they must go. and only wheT
! plainly made can they be returned in proper
| shape. one exceedingly elegant costume
| ordered for one OF the most fashionable re-
| sorts. combines a box coat with a plaif
| gored skirt. and there are many similarly
| made while shirtwaist or blouse suits are
legion. For these embroidery is much liked
| although plain stitching Is quite correct
Eyelet designs and Hardanger work arr