New-York tribune., 1904-10-16
SEALSKIN In FAVOR.
For Directoire Modes Ut Is a F'd-
vored Uses of R~~:1.

Russian sable unattainable for every one except
the mult-milliOnaire. stands OF course at '"'
head Of this seasons beautiful furs
Twelve thousand dollars is the pricemark at
tached TO a Russian sable evening coat at the ST.
Louis Exposition. The Tevers are faced win et-
mine and cord passementerie is used 70 trim TINS
luxurious garment.
Mink s considered a comforting substitute for
sable by many women and certainly 1t gets good
share of admiration. 1t is not what one could can
the least bit inexpensive An attractive mOoel
which is described in "CreTand's Cloak Journal
was a mink jacket, about thirty-six inches lOns'
cut in scaIIOps all about the bottom and closely
fitted 10 the figure all around. The DireetOire
revers and the cuffs on the fitted sleeves were OF
erTHine
For the more moderate priced furs there are lynx
fox and squirrel. while raccOOn. skunk and opOssum
are made most attractive by the artistic dyer
And surprise Of surprises rabbit has cropped up
IS the fad fur. To be sure, it is clipped rabbit
and 1t bears a resemblance to ermine.
An up to date fashion magazine remarks that
present indications point to revived interest In
sealskin. In forty-twO inch coats and in shorter
lengths it gives promise Of renewed activities II
Is particularly we'll liked In the close fitting
Drectoire modes with cautious introduction of
embroidcries and passementeries. In eapes. too It
bids fair TO have successful season."
Skins. especially calfskin and reindeer are In the
faddst's favor. They are. naturally, OF the young
est. softest pets, and are beautifully marked and
dressed They are used for mum and neckpieee
or to tIim cloth gowns.
Tho pOular scarf Is fat and broad and has the
stole effect. TRe fancy neckpieces are beautiful
when made of such combinations as Venetian lace
and white fox eTmlne.
In muffs aIsO there is good chance for happy
combinations Of fur. lace and flowers. The plain
mufr may be either fiat or round.
Fur promises 10 be widely used trimming for
handsome gowns-silk. cloth velvet-this winter.
Velvet is. without the least doubt. 70 reign
queen among the materials for winter suits. SILK
and cut vevets shown In great variety. but the
greatest share of attention will to the crushed
or crumpled velvets.
The breitschwantz. or. as II is commonly called,
broadtail velvet. is popular because OF the COM
bination Of rich appearance and light weight. For
merly it only in black. but this fall the
shops are showing il in mahosa9y browns S greens Greens
for evening wraps. A delicate shade OF brOadtail
velvet in pale blue pink. or green. combined with
Other peIts that are initiated in velvet this year
are moleskns. chinchila and beaver, lhsy Sy,, ~
for women and coats for children
stands frsS. Braids Of solid coiorins to match
the material are most In demand some charm
ia the market now, however. which will be sure
20 catch many a SnoPpSps ~ eye 4, I'm p11Ipfon of
a dealer who makes specially OF oIalqsi ii M
enjoy is' especial favor.
Gold braid is used on many imported models.
given away TO those designs where the metal
tare' Some Of the narroWef widths with double
edge OF gold thread. have been so effectively com
that they recommend themselves for their IN
trinsic attractivsness particularly as aGaPteu t0E
suit trimmings, says fashion journal, Ap
pliIue embroidery Is pretty certain to nave a
for shoulder and collar decoration but on vests
cuffs and sleeves Geometrical patterns and 2 c9n-
xsoRSH SS55 owersS @f pate43s sTsSgIy seem 10 De
Collars OF heavy spk passementerie are seen in
OF the handsome French cloakS. and are
stunning They are very wide and come IN. IN z
patterns for cloak aHd dress wear are another
Il seems a bit humorous to think that the change
in the styles has IS effect on nightgowns yet u
Ine me" mgegi5 G t IN SS af tSt
10 the elbow bit shorter. Moreover. what
tbs trimming at the neck is reproduced There is
not much Of neck nowadays; for the newest robes
Ribbon and beading are used with the double
Se sIeeye Which stands close to the double pun in
popularity, is cut 20 the elbow on the inner seam
slope half way TO the wrist at the back
Extra length, which Is the most emphatic thing
about the latest lingerie models. characterizes the
nEhtgowns as well as extreme width
any OF the other undergarments The expensive
VnG'IS s = 6ond 1 aT11broilerV and real IScSVoIen
cennes. Irlande. Italian hlet, Brugs. Brussels or
rose and bowlsnot. favorite motifs. which are
usually surrounded By hand embroidery.
band but the rule that ali must follow Is TO have
very in width from six 10 twenty inches.
The stVla for eNtrava gance Of trimming has
tended 10 the negligee until now the mere mention
Of that garment presuppOses extravagance OF
trimming There two distinct classes Of elabO-
rate negligees-the Occidental and the Oriental
''The Occidental way" says fashion Journal, lis
one Of laces and laces and yet more laces. IN
vertable cascade OF the flmy stun but the Orieu-
tai method Is one Of silk embrClderies In gorgeous
hues. and IN realistic reproductions or the thing
forming the motif OF the design Comparatively
few afford the luxury OF one of these
Japanese or Chinese garments, for they cost a
one OF these Oriental negl!gees Is a fun length
Mandarin coat OF light blue satin, broad and flow
needlework OF the little Jap begins on side
of the neggee snow crowned mountain peaks are
depicted: on the other stands a gorgeous Growing
rooster.
Another model Is OF ivory satin embroidered with
ivory, gray. black and blue. while here and there
runs a thread OF gold, FLYING white herons also
branches and wiStaria make charming decorations
for other neglgees. and the chrySantheumn also tS
not forgotten. although IL has Dutgrown the charm
OF novelty. Gayly lowered silks and crepes make
attractive negiigees
Never one may safely say. has bright coIorng for
Nothing could be more vivid than a petticoat Of
orange taffeta, which Of the shops is showing
Happily it is tOned down bit by application OF
which savoTs of orange and which used TO be
called terra-cotta or mahogany. is to be pop
bination of ColOrs that is either in harmony or in
striking contrast Is frequently the new
petticoats. 4 blue silk model has hOunce euI-
belllshed with ruchings OF scarlet t0neta-One
to edge and 10 head the hOunce. The same
effect Is given "a blue petticOat which green
Tuchings are used, and 20 n red model with plaid
laCes, emhrOdeTies. ribbons. ruches. applique work
landings, insertions edginss nets There is this
good deal wider about the feet than the old models
Il HAT FOR EVERY FACE.