The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-02-05
Of the indianapolis Journal.


the damp. unpleasant days here in Gotham.
we are RECALLED with accounts Of the balmy
air, the ideal beach, the outdoor life at
Palm Beach and at Santa Barbara, of the
delights Of the piney woods at Aitkin and
Of sundry other joys from which we stay
at-hOmes are debarred. Each day carries
forth trains loaded with pleasure seekers
and were our town a whit less big and cos
mopolitan we should begin to feel a sense
of desertion.. so large are the crowds that
weekly desert its piercing midwinter
climate. AS it Is we feel an occasional
twinge of envy, mayhap, or a sense of long
ing to step aboard the outgoing train, but
otherwise are conscious only that there
must be an exodus of some sort, for in the
midst Of snow and ice summer gowns greet
one at every turn, straw hats are offered on
every side and one and all we know that it
will be many weeks before such will be well
come here. The view is a pleasant one,
however, and brings the conviction that
warm days are somewhere in the future in
addition to urging us on a bit to make
| preparation therefor. AS L have already
told you, spring and summer fabrics are
being lavishly displayed and the general
| tendencies of fashion are fairly well under
stood so that dressmakers are in a position
to take orders and there is every induce
ment to get work out of the way while
the weather is still dismal to prepare for
the bright days well in advance and so be
in readiness to revel in the sunshine when
once more it floods our streets and tempts
us out of doors.
Among the many excellent models have
seen it is possible only to select few for
description. but even few will serve to
show what direction is to be followed and
to indicate the tendencies of la mode. That
1SSO styles are TO hold is an established fact.
| we are to be broad of shoulder and full
or skirt the spring and summer through,
ana, as thin fabrics lend themselves to such
treatment peculiarly well. results are
charmingly picturesque and present attrac-
lions by the score. Linens, foulards, veil
ing, Darege and muslins make the predomi-
mating materials, with a few exceedingly
smart costumes in the new fancy Sicilian
mohairs that promise to be much worn.
The linen costumes of two sorts, the
pam and the elaborate, but fOulards, lib
erleS and muSllnS are all much frilled and
much trimmed. bringing vividly to mind
all the dear old-time portraits at which we
nave smiled many times.
PICTUREI GOWN.
AS lovely a muslin as even those dear
old DANES, who reveled in the true East
Indian material, could have asked is made
with hip yoke and much elaborate hand
work. The yoke is all a mass of fine tucks
Below it is a wide portion all of embroidery,
which is in the leaf design familiar in all
Partisan shawls, the scalloped edge being
for the top and arranged over the edge of
the yoke. Below.i is a deep flounce of the
embroidery that is tucked at it's upper edge
ana joined TO the band by fagoting I'D
TO the lower edge of which hem is fagoted
on The blouse is full, laid in fine tucks
for several inches below the yoke of the
embroidery, and includes big sleeves with
embroidered caps that continue the line o.
the yoke and give the long, dropping line
with 1t are to be worn sashes of liberty
ribbon, white or colOred as occasion d.
mands. a second muslin also is sheer and
fine. but is made with three-founced
skTt or embroidery, each .founce
bit on the floor all round. The blouse is
the favorite full one that is tucked below
a drop yoke of embroidery and closed at
the back, but the sleeves are wide, in bcII
style, with embroidered edges and fall eyer
huge puffs on each of which are two wide
drltis or Ealenciennes lace and which are
gathered into narrow cuffs. AT the waist
Is deep draped belt of ivory louisine satin
that is most charming.
There has been much talk of foulards fall
ing off in favor but l see no evidence
thereof, although, to be sure. the satin
finish Is the favorite and Liberty satins
ana the lightweight taffetas, once known
The new designs and colors are really fas-
cinating and the material itself is far too
comfortable and satisfactory to be surren-
dered without struggle. All tan brown
and the lighter champagne shades are much
In vogue. AS lively and as typicaly smart
gown as any yet seen is tan color fleclxed
with white and trimmed with frillS of Val
enclenneS lace and tiny brown satin ribbon.
The skirt is made after what promises to
be a favorite style the season through and
Is plain for a narrow space at the front
shlrred TO form hip yoke at sides and
back, below which it falls in soft, full folds
AT the lower edge is a founce, the upper
edge OF which is cut in scalops that are
edged with narrow white Valenciennes lace
below which is a tiny frill of the brown
ribbon, and which is shirred below the seal
Tops that form heading At the lower
edge of the flounce is narrow frill to
match that is scalloped and lace finished
at both edges, and above the founce at q
distance of few inches is an inset of fine
white embroidered batiste with two frills
above, all terminating at the edges of the
plain front panel. The bodice is very
broad, very full and in every way typical.
IT Is a blouse, matter of course, and
is closed at the back. The yoke is OF white
embroidery like that on the skirt, and be-
low 1t is a wide circular bertha that is COM
pletely covered with alternating scalloped
and lace-edged frills and puffings of the
silk, with the frills at the edges. The
sleeves are really huge puffs above deep
cuffs that are of plain silk and show frills
falling over the hands and again arranged
upon the puts, so adding TO their apparent
SAHC. a. inc waist Is Il uSGp OTapSQ cOrSel0t
belt or the soft satin, and the entire cos
tune makes a study of color as we'll as
design The silks themselves are exquisite
this season and show colors and designs
that not alone are charming in the piece
but which lend themselves to successful
gowns exceptionally well.
WILL BE ARTISTIC.
What with that condition and the really
graceful styles in vogue there is every rea-
son TO look for a season of artistic dress.
as well as of smartness, if L may venture
TO use that much abused word that SC often
is made TO stand for the merely bizarre in
place of for the truly good founded on prin-
cipes of art; but the note OF warming needs
sounding, nevertheless, for, unless one be
wary and choose wisely, there is danger
I'm the very beauty that tempts us TO forget
personal needs. No woman is truly well
gowned who is not dressed in a way to
bring out her good points to conceal her
defects No matter how smart model
may be, If ii does not suit the individual
IL will not make satisfactory effect. Only
by bearing this essential truth in mind and
adapting the style TO suit her needs can