davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-12-10

Let only the golden haired or black
haired girl risk the gold and ivory
combs, and the silver one is for the
brunette alone. No shade of hair was
ever born or invented which could not
wear tortoise shell. Its tints and lights
are universally becoming. These combs
are all expensive, for only the genuine
materials or the best limitations are
worth buying. The handsornest ones
are 1eweled, which brings them to a
fabulous price.
In selecting any comb be careful to
choose one with long teeth curved so
that the comb feels firm in the hair. 1t
is both dangerous to the comb and en-
barrassing to the wearer to have it fall.
If within reach of a Chinese importer,
he is the best one to furnish an ivory
comb. The Chinese have been quick to
learn American fancies, and they have
adapted their handiwork accordingly.
Some of their shops display combs
carved in exquisite designs. --.,.-
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-12-10

even surface. The trimming is usually
carried out in the same shade of the
gown it adorns, but I have seen it very
effectively applied to a costume OF
cream cloth, outlining the corsage and
fronts. The latter is further beautif1ed
with large button rosettes having velvet
centers and little frills of taffeta all
round. The waistcoat was of velvet,
with tiny Tevers embroidered in ORR
entail colors over a vest of tucked white
chiffon
We are wearing the most stunning
furs made up in all kinds of peltS, but
the charms of chinchilla and it's extrav-
agant price almost make it a rival of
sable. The principal feature OF our furs
this season is the clever disposition OF
skins producing a shaded or MORE eff
feet which is exquisitely lovely, espe-
ciaIly in sable.
The smaller neck pieces are consider
ed more swagger and, although small
in size, are just as large in price. They
are trimmed with hanging ornaments
fringe and coarse lace, which is all very
well for ceremonious occasions, but to
my mind detracts always from the
beauty of the fur. The newest muffs
are very fiat and wide and divide popu-
larity with the large square ones. A
less pretty shape is in bolster effect
which is only possible in short haired
pelts. CATHERINE TALBOT.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-12-10

These dresses are made over soft silk
and deliberately trimmed with lace and
embroidery. A stunning gown of chif-
fon cloth in peacock blue had a panel
front made of macrame cord in motifs
of blue and green. The lace used on the
bodice was studded in the heavy parts
of the design with tiny green and blue
beads. The effect was subdued. but
brilliant.
"A new silk called mousseline tabueta
is made up into dressy afternoon and
high evening dresses. 1t is so soft and
pliable that it falls in folds like satin.
While upon the subject of these gowns
let me say that brussels net is extern
sively used this season, and the dow
ager and the debutante both wear this
attractive fabric. Chiffon cloth makes
the incest kind of blouse to match the
afternoon cloth coat and skirt cos
tune. 1t does not crush or crumple I'M
der the coat sleeves and will increased
ly go into the travelling box and come
forth in pristine freshness at the end of
a journey, an advantage not to be de-
spised, particularly when the change of
travelling gown to dinner frock often
has to be made in a hurry.
Any novelty in trimming is always
welcomed with pleasure. and the season
certainly abounds in new trimmings OF
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-12-10
An address book is a welcome pres

An address book is a welcome pres
ent, and happy the person who can fill
several volumes with the addresses of
pleasant acquaintances and tried
friends. Such a book is made by cut
ting piece of thick paper into the size
for cover and filling it with pieces of
writing paper cut a little smaller than
the cover to form a book. Stitch these
leaves through the middle and tie a
piece of narrow ribbon through the
center to hide the stitches. Paint a
spray of flowers in one corner and a
| bird in another and the word Address
es" across, and you will have a dainty
book.
| A smart little neck arrangement is a
! charming offering, and a dainty ar
rangement of lace might take the place
occupied last year by the cross stitch
collar or a fanciful arrangement of lin
en- decorated with fagoting and French
dots. A little skill with the brush will
| transform a long, scarf1ike piece of
chiffon four yards long and one wide
| into a dainty, coquettish protection
from drafts at dance and will prove a
delightful present for the girl who goes
out to evening functions.
Christmas gifts for men are difficult
| to choose, and it is much easier to tell
what not to give than otherwise; still a
safe rule to follow is to purchase them
| ready made. Never select pipes or CT
gars for man. Women know nothing
about them, and he knows everything
about his favorite brand. Men like
plain, substantial, masculine looking
| things and not fancy, frai gifts which
they are almost afraid to handle. An
umbrella or walking stick makes a sat
| isfaetory Christmas gift. See that it
has a sensible handle with no lavish
display of gold or silver mounting.
Books and pictures may be given if you
know the mans tastes perfectly. Avoid
giving jewelry to the male sex unless
you can curb your taste and buy to suit
the masculine likes and dislikes. 1t is
hazardous to purchase tie clips, rings,
| watch chains and seals unless you Sc
1ect plain and sensible ones.
The art of giving gracefully is a tai
ent, and the manner in which a present
| is bestowed invests it with the Christ
mas spirit and makes the recipient
think tenderly of the giver when the
present is really Insignificant in itself.
For instance, one woman always ties
her Christmas packages up with blue
ribbon mingled with a beautiful spray
of holly, while another always scents
her gifts with a certain sachet she af-
fects.
Money is gift not to be despised, but
it must be sent in a diplomatic fashion.
A check pinned to an umbrella, with
the inscription, For a rainy day." is a
neat little way of surrounding the diff
f1culty. A young man arrived at the
sentimental stage, but afraid to send to
the object of his affections anything but
a conventional gift may imbed the little
present in mistletoe, which will speak
eloquently of the state of his feelings
and add beauty to the gift.
GRACE GRISCOM.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-12-10

- DDS and ends in the way of
E novelties for Christmas pres
ents are things we are seek
ing for these last few weeks
before the great festival arrives. Some
thing new seems almost out of the run
ming for artistic and mechanical inge-
nuity in all branches of trade has been
during the last few years working over
time and has now settled down to per-
fecting what was thought perfect.
The choosing of suitable gifts for
ones friends and relatives is often a
difficult affair. 1t is no easy matter at
times TO discover the tastes of the one
to whom the present is to be given or
TO select something that will be both
useful and ornamental. Few persons
care for a merely useful present or for
one whose sole merit is beauty, SO the
difficult problem confronts the Christ
mas giver of combining these attrf-
butes. But in nine cases out of ten it is
the gift made by the donor which is
most highly appreciated. When this
vexed question presents itself it is COM
forting to remember that all woman
kind delights in dainty trifies of lace
and silk They are as pleased at six
with a pretty handkerchief case as
they will be at sixty Lingerie made by
hand is a charming gift between girl
friends. nothing being more appreciat-
ed. And one fair maiden has made for
her chum what she calls a patchwork
corset cover. 1t is made of the sheerest
nainsook fashioned slightly full back
and front, and at the waist the extra
amount of material is taken up into
tiny hand run tucks reaching several
inches up the cover. Scattered over the
waist are motifs formed of odd little
bits of lace and swiss embroidery ap-
piled in a pretty design and put to-
gether with fancy stitches. OF course
both fronts have the same motifs ar
ranged in order over them The usual
fall of lace and beading run with a wide
wash ribbon finishes neck and arm
holes Instead of being buttoned down
the front rather large, lengthwise but
tonholes are worked, through which
opening ribbon is drawn and tied in
smart little bows. The corset cover has
a deep frill of lace at the waist line
headed with beading and ribbon.
Another useful and pretty present on
the lingerie order is a shirt waist ex-
tender To evolve this charming trihe
one needs to take length of thin cot
ton batting long enough to fit over the
bust and about four inches deep; spread
it with a favorite scent and then cover
neatly with India silk. Over this comes
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-12-10
Simple Cakee For
Cbe DoIfday Season
MADEIRA CAKE.-Beat six ounces
NA of butter with a quarter of a

M Of butter 9A With aaa sa GU Of
pound of powdered sugar well
with the hand till it becomes smooth as
cream; then beat up three eggs in a
teacupful of milk and weigh out ten
ounces of flour. Add the flour to the
butter and sugar by degrees, mixing it
all up together with the hand; when it
becomes rather stiff begin to add the
milk and eggs, a little at time. When
all the ingredients are used flavor with
a few drops of vanilla or lemon, which,
ever is preferred, and at the last add a
teaspoonful of baking powder Put the
mixture into a well buttered and pa
pered tin and bake in moderate oven
from one hour to one hour and a half.
Success in making this cake depends
upon mixing it well.
Snowdrop Cake.-Beat three eggs
well, using the lightest coIored yoIks,
add little cream or milk and favorin9
to taste. Rub four ounces of butter
into half pound of -four stir in four
ounces of sugar, mix by adding the
eggs and milk and stirring thoroughly,
but lightly; then scatter in a teaspoon
full of baking powder. Turn the mix
ture into a creased cake tin, put into a
hot oven, reduce the heat after a little
while and let the cake bake gradually
When cold coat with sugar icing, and
when this is set cover the surface with
desiccated cocoanut, inserting a few
snowdrops at intervals just before
serving.
Good Cake Without Eggs-Beat four
level teaspoonfuls of butter to a cream:
add one and half cupfuls of sugar;
when well mixed add one cupfuI OF
milk alternating with two cupfuIs of
flour; beat thoroughly, add a pinch OF
salt, two level teaspoonfuls of baking
powder and one teaspoonful of flavor
ing. Turn into buttered cake pan and
bake in a moderate oven twenty min
utes. y
Chocolate Cookfes.-Beat to a cream
one cupful of butter and two cupfuls Of
sugar Add to these four well beaten
eggs, half cake of chocolate melted or
grated; a teaspoonful of vanilla, a half
teaspoonful of cinnamon, a scant tea
spoonful of soda and flour enough to
roll thin. Roll out and cut in fancif,I
shapes and bake in a quick oven.
Simple Sponge Cake-Beat the voIl,.
of three eggs and one and a half cun-
fuls of granulated sugar, one table
spoonful of lemon juice, half a cuDf,,1
Of water Sift in two cupfuls of sfftad
flour, then add the whites of the eve.
beaten stiff, and two level teaspoonf,,Is
of baking powder. Line long, shaIIovv
pans with paper, turn in the rnIrt,,r.
and bake in a moderate oven fcrtv.T,~~
minutes
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-12-10

line. A dainty and smart little Christ
mas present consists of a miniature
surrounded with diamonds, if expense
is no object, or an odd barbaric pendant
of antique workmanship hung on
black noire ribbon almost an inch wide.
These ribbon chains are quite the
swagger thing and are superseding the
jeweled affairs. Lorgnettes and watch
eS are both to be seen dangling from the
MORE ribbon, which ties in a small bow
at the back of the neck or is fastened
with jeweled or enameled clasps.
A girl know described present fash
ions the other day as whatever one
hasn't got" and it really seems. in the
general topsy turvyisu of dress, that
she was about right. Certainly the
modes of the day are original, even if
they hint of other ways and days. Our
grandmothers, though, would fail to
recognize the bouffant sleeves of their
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-12-10

body walks for an hour in the
Avenue des Acacias, and it is
the one time of the day devoted to hy-
gfene, the remainder being usually
spent in heated rooms not at all condu-
Give to health. But the early morning
hour spent in the open is certainly de-
lghtful. Between 10 and IL o'clock the
simple but perfectly equipped brough-
am and victoria motors or vehicles
drawn by a single "toppy" horse are
lined up in double file near the favorite
promenade. The fair occupants of
these luxurious carriages descend, and
the footing" as the Partisan calls it,
begins in earnest.
Short skirts and short, semiftting
Jackets in tweed or cloth are de rigueur,
and a touch of color in collar, cuffs
waistcoat is the only frivolity notice.
able on these trotteuse gowns. The
well dressed Partisan woman never
makes the mistake of wearing the
three-uuarter coat with a walking
jupe; her idea of Zine" is too keen for
such a sartorial contretemps to be pos
sible.
Francis is the tailor patronized at the
moment for walking frocks, and he
comes nearer meeting the demands of
the strictly tailor made than any of the
Partisan couturieres. His model walk
ing skirt this winter is circular, with a
seam UP the front and back, which cut
gives a smarter hang over the hips than
a gored skirt There is less chance of
the petticoat trucking up" as in the
case of the gown with a detached lin
ing or one which is fastened to it. In
deed, all skirts this season are made to
be worn over a well cut petticoat, and
the effect is very satisfactory.
The hats donned during the morning
promenade are not remarkable except
for their unmis takable air of chicness-
The favorite chapeau seems to be the
modified three cornered shape carried
out in soft, silky felt with the back fat
tened to the crown. Listen while
veil the secret of their trimming, which
is as simple as possible. had one of
these smart hats in my hand and am
quite sure I can explain the mysterious
something which gave it a cachet. The
hat was a fat pile black beaver in be-
comingly turned up tricorne, and the
trimming was made of a strip of rich
green velvet having a silvery light
Four Fittings a couple of inches wide
were sewed into the velvet, three stand
ing up and one down. Between the
third and fourth was a double row of
gatherings. The trimming was placed
upon the hat like a feather, starting
from the front of the crown, curling
over the hattened brim at the back and
finishing beneath the brim on one side
with a large fancy ornament. The am
ateur milliner would have no trouble in
turning out a creation of such simple
character
The Frenchwoman dresses perfectly
for each occasion, but shopping is not
undertaken by her in the early morn
ing; consequently the toilet is made on
rather an elaborate scale for wear at
lat
will drive to her filters after a noon
breakfast, and the wise virgins are
even now extending the shopping hours
a little for the selection of Christmas
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-12-10

broidered linen. A dolly case or tea
cozy is also a pleasing gift, and in the
line of things to buy the list is limited
only by the length of the purse. A de-
sign of poinsetta blossoms is especially
appropriate on linen for the holiday
present.
We never seem to outlive our fond
ness for sofa cushions, and the very
newest are made of Indian net en-
broidery. The material used for the
background is a net of stout texture
and of a very coarse mesh in white or
especially dyed tones of dull blue, null
berry, gold or green. This net is work.
ed all over with patterns of oriental
character in stitches copied from old
Indian samples. Extremely good color
effects are in this wise obtained with
embroidery silks in crude tones. The
network is mounted on any pillow COW
ering one desires. This work has end
less possibilities for variety, one of the
variations being table square done in
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-12-10

olive tones, with a touch of dull yellow
and red, the whole rather suggestive of
a Persian pattern. Jewels are set in the
design wherever they are effective and
worked around with gold thread. The
way this ringing" is accomplished is
peculiar. Two needles are used in
making the gold rings, both threaded
with the bullion, each thread going once
around the jewel. The fingers must
never touch the thread, as it makes it
curl. The effect when completed is that
of a jewelers. handiwork. Gloves and
handkerchiefs are always an acceptable
gift, as one cannot be oversupplied with
these necessaries. Particularly is this
the case with long light gloves, which
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-12-10
Ribbon. In Place of Curl Papers

1t is no longer the fashion for women
to make frights of themselves with
ugly curl papers or rags.
The undulating paraphernalia con-
sists of ribbons and two pronged forks
of French gilt which have handles like
tortoise shell. When ready to use. the
tips of the prongs are slipped through
the eyelet holes, and the loop of rib
bon left by this arrangement is drawn
to the other end of the fork, where it
is fitted into a deep groove.
The hair is then rolled alternately
around the prongs. and when finished
the ribbon is tied in a jaunty little bow,
which is not unattractive and which
does not interfere with ones rest at
night.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-12-10

time put into a close fitting coatee with
short, undulating basques, the fronts
opening upon a double breasted pompa-
dour vest of silk. And Marie Antoi
nette would be puzzled to Identify of
her period a pointed corsage with
sleeves resembling those affected by
Marie Henriette. In fact. the entire
nodistic world bristles with amalga-
mated skirts, bodices and wraps of ev
cry description that scarcely warrant
the serious effort to link them to other
periods, peoples or nationalities.
The glove manufacturers day is sure
~ here for what with the elbow sleeve
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-12-10

cry movement in this important direc-
ton.
The tan shades in gloves are lighter
this season, and for evening wear the
glove must match the toilet exactly.
Restaurant dining is just as fashion
able this season, as ever, and party of
this kind is so much less formal at a
cafe than the same function at home.
Everybody sits beside his or her af-
fnity at a restaurant dinner. The host
will probably annex the prettiest girl
and the hostess the youngest bachelor,
and everybody is good tempered and
jolly. Some kind of a show, theater,
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-12-10
Fashions In Japan.

The empress of Japan and her suit
were once prevailed upon to lay aside
their quaint costumes and give a trial
to Partisan gowns. They quickly re-
turned to the old order of things, how
ever for European dress seems to ne
cessitate the use of the corset, and
japanese women thoroughly appreciate
the liberty given to their waists by
their pretty national dress.
There is no distinction made in the
style of dress of the women of Japan
all wear the kimono-and one can only
imagine the high position and wealth of
the wearer by the quality of the mate
rial and its embroidery.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-12-10

disporting itself at almost all hours of
the day and night, long, expensive
giants are a necessity. Then, running
from one extreme to another, we find
two buttoned gloves which meet the re-
quirements of the gauntlet, gigot and
close fitting coat sleeve. In the morn
ing we are asked to wear one button
hand coverings with our walking cos
tune and twelve button length in the
afternoon. 1t is surely a catholic move
ment in glovedon, and we are obliged
to have our wits about us to follow ev-
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-12-10

opera or vaudeville serves to fill up the
time between dinner and the next
square meal at 11:30, for which the
party adjourns to another restaurant.
All these little dinners require GER
tain kinds of gowns which must be
dainty and pretty, almost like a ball
frock, but cut high at the throat. Here
in Paris at restaurant dinners hats are
invariably worn. Chiffon cloth, which
is transparent and looks very like chif-
fon, but is more durable, is used
great deal for these dinner frocks.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-12-10

squares of the Indian network Joined
together with coarse. handsome crochet,
which ornamental lace is again so much
used.
To buy a copy of a friends favorite
author, remove the commercial cover
and substitute one of heavy linen COW
cred with cream broche on which is a
charming design worked out in silks in
Indian effects is a twofold compliment,
as the recipient feels fattered that her
pet author has been honored by the
donors skill.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-12-10

all sorts. Probably the most attractive
are the plated taffeta adornments
which are such a relief from the many
varieties of broad braids and soutaches.
The taffeta trimming comes in inch and
a half widths, with little bands of silk
plated neatly in and out to form an I'M
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-12-10
CHRISTMAS FASHIONS OF PARIS

presents. In the Rue de la Paix the
jewelry shops have put on quite a holt
day air, and it is in this exclusive quar-
ter that femininity is often to be found
purchasing some novelty in the gem
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-12-10
Pink the Vogue.

Pink is to have a great vogue this
winter. There is a new French shade
called nenuphur which has a faint wa
ter lily tinge.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-12-10

and rounds becomingly in the back.
The ends are brought high up under the
bust and fasten with fancy button
The pretty lace collar is nothing more
than two gathered ruffies of lace fas-
tened in front with a square bow. The
effect, though, is exceedingly smart.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-12-10

are worn upon all dressy occasions
nowadays with the elbow sleeves. The
young matron will appreciate center
pieces and doilies in lacework or en-
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-12-10
Fmas Dress
Novelties

TIME dress novelties illustrated are
fetching and new, particularly
the undersleeves, which in one
instance are made to simulate but
terhy and in the other are shirred up
the center and fall in graceful folds
above frills of lace.
The girdle is fashioned over a boned
lining which slightly points in front
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-12-10

will. The velvet is becomingly cut to
curve to the figure and embroidered in
a conventional design of leaves and fig
ures done in warm brown, dull blue and
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-12-10

- ARTS, Nov. 26.-These lovely
November mornings every
body walks for an hour in the
Avapra das Acacias. and it is
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-12-10

cry movement in this important direc-