New-York tribune., 1904-08-21

skirt of tafeta which appeared in the late spring
promises to have a certain success the coming
season, although it may prove to be more oecon-
ing If double ruche or two or three rows OF no1
pleating added at the hem A skirt OF TINS
shirred the top. although it is care1uhy
gored not to give any extra fulness about
the hips.
A great many Of the pleated skirts stitched
down to form small yoke. and in the mato.
OF cases the front breadth is plain. Some skirts
have attached founces with heading OF deep
pleats lines of braid. A pretty skirt always Is
of small box pleats. held down with sorne FORM
OF trimming
One OF the autumn cloth models is OF light
weight cloth in a shade Of brown. trimmed
with passementerie braid The skirt is hung In
small box pleats with the exception of the front
breadth, and attached just above the knees
with little clusters of braid loops. The bottom OF
the skirt Is trimmed with an elaborate pattern
done IN the braid, but here the pleats are free
The bolero has reversible fronts faced in with ecru
pongee, embroidered with the passementerie, and
when closed it fastens with passementerie loops
and buttons. The sleeves are gathered into pun
by means OF small box pleats taken In the
stuff half way between the shoulders and elbows.
and they fall again in shaped turnup cuffs. heavily
trimmed with passementerie
A good many tailored suits will be made OF tar
feta or faille silk, and excellent model is a
belted blouse coat with little round, pleated hip
pieces Taese rarely meet in front, although the
part of tie Jacket above the belt may have
double breasted reversible front. Another top
particularly nice in cloth meets on the bust and
then slopes away to show a fitted undervest
peated across the shoulders, double breasted from
the bust to the belt. with rolling collar and revers
TO show a plastron of heavy lace, embroidery or
trimming This model IS excellent choice for
the autumn before the time arrives for the
heavier coats worn over separate bouses. Skirt
and coat suits have long been considered the
correct thing for street use that women have be-
come to any top that does not give at least
a jacket suggestion. The majority of silk gowns
to be worn without an extra wrap show some idea
that suggests coat.
At Trouville many young women are wearing the
cowboy skirt, a form of short skirt that seems
to have taken the place of the pleated skirt that
was universal last summer at the shore. This
is seven-gored skirt. generally OF white serge,
with the cores running up TO form a lifted bodice
silk or lingerie is soft and full This style of out
ing costume emphasizes the idea in vogue now,
that the wastline shall be kept trg and close and
the fulness and width of the bodice lie about the
shoulders.
The Marie Antoinette suggestions seen in
many gowns where the model copied too iterarlly
would not be becoming. a howered taffeta.
cream colored ground with little pink and mauve
flowers scattered over ii, is made up with cream
colored silk muslin embroidered, tucked and inset
with lace. The silk skirt hangs from the hips in
loose side pleats. and is most elabOratey trimmed
from the knees down. There is pattern done In
tiny blue and meuve velvet ribbon, rufted and ar
ranged in A design with edge OF Valenciennes
and between rows OF the design deep tucks
taken in the stuff, and the skirt is finished with
q pun of silk. edged with lace. The petticoat OF
muslin is elaborate with handwort and lace inseT-