New-York tribune., 1904-10-07

An afternoon gown Of bronze cashmere has
trimming ot Oriental embroidery most curiously
arranged the skirt. after idea evidently bor-
rowed from the East The skirt is shaped and
shirred 70 a round yoke. made OF embroidery but
the novel feature is that the yoke continues Ia the
form OF loose panels that fall down the front OF
the gown. with fringed ends that touch the hen.
On the bodice IS q double collar OF the embroidery
cut IKE two squares. put on over The head SO that
me eight points arrange themselves IN equal dis
tances about the shoulders. The sleeve falls into
Dig tqTn-up Gun OF embroidery.
t+e most 4hli tSs.te -'.' - 9rd
son is the Russian tunic made OF SOFT KID and
ecru shade IS richly embroidered with Shaded
brown silks The big stole collar IS q heavy ecru
yeIvet There IS a line Of sable all about the gar
Another kid coat is Of soft, lustreless black EN-
is lined with blue satin ana worn with a black
c soScesSaeily g Tor automo9ile garments ana even
drsssy coat is something Of a Surprise.
IL. Lne qGesuon OF sleeves is the most important
note the various bids for success that the dress
pur al the shoulde7s sttsc6fSs hosey IS Sste as
light sleeve One OF the prettiest sleeves consists
coat sleeve is high and broad at the Shoulders and
Is either put in with shirrings or with little
There are some suggestions stlH Of the fashion OF
agILeSS osIo@ s tne elbow n the way Of trimming
undersleevss judging from the TnodeI Gowns the
change in sleeves appears 10 be a most radical one
but fashions do not always change as rapidly as
the dressmakers would wish.
Costumes made for the mi-saison show rather a
COMPROMISE oet"een the modes Of the spring and
the ideas as set out in the models A costume
IN dark blue cloth Is MADE with one OF the long
htted coats that are so modish. with reversible
and white striped silk There Is waistcoat Of
white silk. fastening 10 the throat with small gold
buttons. The sleeve is broad and loose at the shou-
der and keeps much the same dimensions To where
! II ends halfway between the elbow and wrist
That is IL is in shape something like a loose roll
that turns over a triae, with kimono cuT faced
a fu rIO
made of a heavy white lace. The skirt has
straight front apron. and the side breadths turn
over the hem with a buttOned point.
Cloth covered buttons are much used. method
OF adomment placing them the backs Of fitted
coats as they appeared some years ago on men 3
coats There also buttons Of passementerie and
trimming. which are quite properly used the
same garment There may even be three kinds Of
of q brown suit consisting Of plain skirt and long
fitted Jacket. on the back OF the coat the waist
line are four large. hat buttons covered with the
CLOTH on the cuffs and ornamentng the revers are
some fancy buttons made 10 match the black and
white trimming used on the coat, and the inside
vest Is fastened with small gold buttons
The smallest form OF Russian blouse. which Is
tho bolero with belt and fiuted hip pieces is not
only most popuar for cloth and velvet street cos
tunes but IS followed for evening gowns A white
1sce Gown with square deccletage has the corsage
velvet The sleeves consist OF butterfly puffs OF
white tulle with lace tabs falling over them.
'The dressy and convenient theatre blouse Is 70 be
reDIaced this winter either by a little velvet
;it- coat with square decolletage made after the
faebton lust described. or by Louis XVI bodices
Sr1siI lengths Of figured silks and lace and hand
some buttons can pc utlIzed for these, and two or
fbTee NAV be utilized with the same skirt They
80 raaIIv intended 10 be worn with white skirts
az siIk cashmere or any Of the practical thin wool
Gtuhs