The Republican journal., 1904-01-21
ODDITIES OF LIFE IN Chill.
NOTABLE INSTITUTIONS OF QUEER
OLD CITY. THE TURKEY MER-
CHANT; THE WATER PEDDLER;
LOTS OF CHURCHES, BUT NO SEW

CONCEPCION, CHILL, December IL,
9U3. Though more than $50 years old,
his quaintest of CHILEAN cities shows
Few signs of age Its casaS-built low
aud solid with an eye to earthquakes
are fine samples of Spanish architec-
ture, but so monotonously alike, ex-
tept in size and color, that it is cas-
ler for stranger to lose his bear
ugs here than in London. All are
about twenty feet high, of one story
,nly, built around one or more patios,
~ court-yards. The universal building
material is sun-dried bricks, which are
~o soft that they absorb water almost
IFS readily as sand, and consequently
{.e plastered. inside and out, until they
.erOme hard aud firm as stone In
uncepcion the law compels house
Nuers to keep the exteriors neatly
ainted The favorite tints appear to
sky-bine, pink, purple and pale vel
NN: but a few indulge in green, gray,
rjmsou and orange Every house is
topped With earthen-ware tiling, rusty
ed in color deeply imbedded in mud
which was soft when put on, and when
ried holds the tiles securely. This
-,rt of roofing is extremely picturesque,
specially as it Immediately takes on a
eating of moss and ichens, but it is
end of trouble to keep in order, and
ust he repaired every year before the
Amy season begins. 1t is odd how
-O.ated from the world. though livin o
a the heart of city, a man may be in
lie of these great adobe caSas. Many
them have no windows that look in
nut and barred, outsiders can form no
Tea of what may be going on within.
When the front lawn, back yard and
itchen garden, parlor, sleeping apart
nents, servants quarters, store-rooms,
able and chapel are ali enclosed with
n the same wall and under one roof
master might be murdered dozen
mes day, if that were possible, and
ecurely hidden away in his own house,
nd the nearest neighbors be none the
wiser
Conception is eminently city of
JrprlSes. For example: She is en-
rely out of debt, but water is still
-ddled about the streets on the backs
donkeys. as i'll early colonial times
size has no fewer than nine magnificent
urches. all Roman Catholic, but no
-setem of sewerage whatever Hand
NE carriages roll about the streets,
longing to wealthy citizens, bat the
sooden ploWs used on their suburban
-tates are rs primitive as those of the
ulent Egyptians. She boasts of four
mixing houses. and the largest Jesuit
.Iitge III South America; maintains a
silly tEtater and a fine band to play
the plaZa-but on "Beggar's Day"
very Saturday the streets literally
arm with licensed mendlcants. until
seems as if half the population are
soliciting aims
There goes public institution and
very necessary one--a bare footed,
ock-headed fellow, following half a
zen slim-legged donkeys, each don
l-y with two small barrels on its back.
TIE makes lis living by selling water
.om house to house. at the rate of one
ut per bucket, His only competitor
another fellow, who perambulates
town with one barrel-full from the
a.o-Bio, loaded in cart drawn by a
rry small mule, to which very large
HW-bell is attached.
Here comes a scarcely less common
ustitution turkey peddler. He
ives a flock of shrill-voiced Young
rkeys before him, from street to
rect, until all are sold. Ask him the
rice of them, and he will probably re-
y. ''Diez pesos cada una. Senor,"-
an dollars apiece, sir" Turn away,
al he shouts after you, 81 will take
zen dollars, sir" If you still remain
1durate, he will follow you with i'm
rtunities, till he has dropped to five
lars, and even down to two. He
as been a long time raising those tur-
rys-or rather his wife has-at great
spor for a CHILEAN "roto." When sold,
all the money does not 60 down his
roat at once in the form of chica, he
take the remainder home to his
anily and they will feast until every
INT is gone. Then his wife will go to
aIket in the morning, contentedly as
'retofore, and buy three cents worth
-four, two cents worth of beans,
cents worth of potatoes and foul
-ntS' worth of fuel to supply hel
"Isehold for day.
The Conception market-house was
Ted up by the authorities. 1t occupies
entire square, and within it country
-oduce of all kinds is bought and sold
producer brings or sends his fruits
-rtables, butter and eggs, beef, pigs
clans, etc, and barriers them of
The best possible advantage. There
1o fixed price for anything-oh no
IN this country beating down" is
life of trade. Take, for example