The Indianapolis journal., 1904-06-05

Black taffetas and pongees are attractive,
especially for middle-aged wearers. sug-
geston for the use of voile in tailoring is
conveyed in the gown of il appearing be-
tween the two dresses last described. The
trimming here Russian lace, with
black velvet facing for the jacket, the color
of the voile being tan. While some lace is
put on tailor suits, no such quantity of it
as was used two years ago is permitted,
anc skirts are many that have no other
ornamentation than pleats cf splendid ac
curacy. These pleatS are especially ad-
mirable in walking suits-or are until the
wearer has sat down in the skirt few
times, when their appearance in rear view
is about spoiled.
These same walking skirts are open to crit
lclsm because of the length of their skirts,
which touch with the wearer's every step.
Ihat doesn't recommend them to econom-
lzers, who will not understand readily why
these should replace the skirt two inches
shorter. especially as the newer suits are
not considered any more dressy than
were the others. New tailored skirts for
outing sports are severely finished and are
made snug about the hips Some are
pleated from about the knees downward
in ways that add weight considerably, es-
pecially when the activities are considered
Tor which the suits are planned But the
get-upS thereby are made to look unlike
the absolutely plain-skirted ones so that s
excuse enough for those who wear them.
Elton and bolero jackets are commenc-
ing another inning of stylishness. appa-
rently for they appear part of the
schemes of many gowns, and the models
advanced are so pretty that the fashion
Is sure to spread. Some of them are made
simple, while others are the most elaborate
feature OF dressy get-upS. Even the SIM
ply-made ones are ornamented with some
degree OF novelty, in cuff and lapel
finish or in treatment of bottom or fronts
so the decorative can be said to have pretty
full attention in all of them. Few features
of WomenS attire are susceptible of so
much variety of treatment is the bolero,
so its return should be welcomed. With
these pretty Jackets comes renewed liking
for girdles. which are present in such di-
versity that each wearer may suit her
self as to the manner of her own.
Transparent and semi-transparent dress
materials are notable for the beauty of the
fowered sorts. In some great blossoms are
sprinkled all over the ground, while in
others tiny bloom trails about in beautiful
sprays. Some of the larger coverings are
bold, indeed but they are TO be worn, and
will have the effect of rendering pleasantly
inconspicuous the more moderate examples
of the same treatment White and cream
whites are often the ground coors, so
the bloom stands out pretty well. These
materials are employed for evening and
dancing dresses, some are made in the ex-
treme OF elaboration, others in reasonable
simplicity Not all evening gowns are
planned to be wonders of highly wrought
effects but you may depend that the COM
paratively simple one that doesn't have
| its original touch will not rank much of
success Three evening dresses are put
here by the artist, a pink organdy trimmed
with white silk embroidery, white dot
! ted lace finished with black satin ribbon
| and iterre lace insertion and yellow silk
null set off with pasSementerie and en-
broidery. When fowered stuffs COM
bined with plain weaves, as is permitted by
the fashions new grade of gown is
touched and another field of old-time styles
| is invaded.
| The trimming to be displayed by stylish
summer folk will be remarkable for guam
| tity. If the garniture is of some simple
| sort its lack of showiness will be made
| up by the employment of untold yards of
| it and if something rich is the medium to
start with. deal of 1t, too, will be dis
| posed upon both skirt and bodice. The
| difference between your fashionable
| woman's simple dress and her elaborate
| che will be largely in the character of the
| will be no simplicity about either. Equally
| extravagant is the tendency to combine
wash stuffs. such as fine linens. with trim
I! painstaking laundry. There are so many
| different trimmings of positive beauty that
will undergo the tub without serious dam
age that ordinary women will be slow TO
adopt this style but-likely for that very
reason-fashicnables will take to it with
zest
Those in search of richness in trimmings
| will find. it in combinations of lace and
embroidery, which well indcrsed and
4 to be had in many sorts, reasonably priced
ones not included. The thinner laces are
especially favored for use without such
combining, and on the so-caled simple
dresses are expended most lavishly Rib
bon garnltureS are employed with like free
dom, but contain much that is novel, so
| less of them will serve. Braids are becom-
! ing more highly wrought and the cCrlique
| is TO the fore again. 1t hardly hints of the
! unganly forms achieved with coarse heavy
braids not many seasons ago in tailor
| suits, for the current braids are for the
most part more delicate of texture But
| the fact is made plain that braid trimmings
| are becoming more ornate. Much white
| and gilt braid is seen on summer dresses.
| Outing suits never were in greater
| variety. Shirtwaist suits alone supply as
many sorts as some summers have had,
| and coat and skirt get-ups add appreciably
| to the list. Boating costumes are return
| ing TO the sailor-like finish they had several
| seasons ago. even including embroidery of
| anchors. oar blades and like designs There
| is indicat ton, too, that these same pretty
| suits Will be worn on other than boating
| trips. 1t is always more less: in
| deed. the passing of the distinctly boat
| ing suit a few years ago was laid 10 the
| tendency of young women who never went
near the water TO wear il. The sailor col
| lar is restored also 10 gowns that are not
| of the sea or of the water that is fresh
| oh, Straight in back. il is cut in V front
| ordinarily a deep one. Below this is the
inevitable tie and the collar itself may be
| finished simply with a few lines OF mar
| row braid, its surface may be almost
| hidden by braid two inches wide Collars
| of more fanciful sorts are put upon the
| outing suits, too, for they. like all manner
| of rigs are meant 10 be diverse