The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-04-10
The 1904 Girl Bears The
Stamp Of 1880 and 1860
Even the Hoopsk Effect Threatening Back in Miniature
Her Neck Chain the Upto Date Girl Goes Back
Ye Ancient Days for Her Ideas

TO be really captivating" declares
French writer somewhere, "a woman
must be both feminine and foolish in
dress"
However this may be. there is no
doubt that the world is returning as
last as it can to a period of adorable
foolishness. Hard sense. as once ex-
pressed by the cut-and-dried tailor
made, is with the newest clothes at
least, virtually a thing of the past.
Narrow skirts have grown wide, sleeves
billow and hang like the arm coverings
in the old Books of Beauty, and hats
are becoming sillier and sweeter every
day.
What does it all mean? Simply that
the periods from which these quaint
coquetries are being harvested were
especially ornamental in matters of
dress. So. with necessary modifica-
tons. the least e2travagant details
which existed between 1890 and 1860
are being used, and with charming ef-
fects.
1t is interesting to properly cata-
logue these details, for to the world at
large everything is 1890. But only the
long shoulder seams and low arm
hole being used, the pelerine tippets
and some minor points come from this
period. All the rest. to a large extent,
get their inspiration from war time
models, and delicious Inspirations they
are, too.
FrivoIities of the COS.
An imported gown now being shown
by a well-known Arm reproduces to
a T the quaint frivolities of an old
1860 fashion plate. The material Of
the modern costume is champagne
colored yelling, and that of the an
cient one French silk in a sprigged
wallpaper design" The skirt of each
one is ornamented with three plain
fiounces put on with a silk ruching:
the bodice of each is soft white, gath
cred full and topped by a jacket cut
on exactly the same lines. 1t is the
same rose. even If one is a "bolero"
and the other a "zouave;" and the
blouse underneath the late creation is
only another name for the spencer"
of We ancient days.
In the old fashion plate the lady
or rather damsel, for she can be no
more than eighteen-wears "a pork
pie hat with a dandy feather" rs went
the circus song of those days. She
also carries a tiny white silk parasol
covered with black Chantilly in the
exact form Partisan bellies and old
ladies here use en- voiture.
The pork pie hat likewise has it's
1904 sister. Made of mAlines and
chiffon, mingled with straw and horse
hair braid. this turban is everywhere
seen in ready-to-wear shape. needing
only a scrap of trimming and costing
just $3.50.
Then the undersleeves and muslin
camps of former days may be bought
separately as of yore, and they are
considered all the more fetching if
they show the simple lace headings
and velvet drawstrings of those long
buried times.
The GunbOat Turban.
The "gunboat" turban Of Civil War
days also comes down under the new
name of the torpedo. There are many
variations on this style. but for the
most part the shapes are all pointed
at the front and blunt at the back, and
show swathing trimmings.
Another hat which appeared some
where along the centuries has lent it's
pattern for a pleasing headpiece. This
is likewise a species of turban, but
the curving sides almost meet over
the top of the crown, forming a sugar
scoop front and a back that droops
down in a tail. Upon this tail an oval
velvet rosette. in softly shaded quill
ings, is often placed fatty, and two
narrow gilded quilts are stuck rak-
ishly through the left brim.
Scribe quilts" these slim ornaments
might well be called, for at the feath-
cred end they are scarcely wider than
the oldfashioned pens.
A hat influenced by colonial tradi-
tions is called by this name, the pop
ular shape showing a very spreading
brim, which is held up to the crown
at the side fronts with trimming of
some description. This feebly sug-
gests the Colonial tricorne, with more
becomingness than the smaller and
correcter shape possesses, unless the
latter is covered with flowers and lace.
Everywhere it is noticed the hardness
of the smaller straw shapes is being
softened. straw quilting and rosettes
appearing around the brim of turbans
when a more elaborate effect is not
desired. An effect strikingly feminine
is made by draping the edge of wide
brim shapes with lace. Wreaths Of
roses are placed at the top Of the
crowns of these, and much ribbon is
used on them.
Hoop skirts Coming Back.
The subject of modern utilization of
old-fashioned fripperies includes the
discussion of the hated hoop. In all
likelihood the unwieIdly cage once en-
ployed for the ballooning of skirts will
never return in its ancient form. The
hoopskirt was inconvenient, very.
Gymnastics were necessary for decor
Gus results when sitting down. and
=-----=