New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1904-12-26

are grown, ranging in value from second grovfAs
so admirable as the L6oville-PoyferrS OF 81
Julien, and the delicious Cos-d' Estournel Of st.
Estephe, or from the excellent Arst-growth Ausons
OF st. Emilion, down through great variety 81
burgher and artisan growths-
| French critics say, and 7 think they are no1
altogether wrong, that Te English would gee
more pleasure out Of ciaret five gave more atten-
tion two other articles OF dict about which the
French take Z deal of trouble-cofee end bread.
COFFEE FOR CLAREF-MEN
may interrupt myself for q moment to speak
OF these. for their connection with elaTes Is very
close one. & man may drink tea. eat household
bread and still like Bordeaux wine but he viii
never derive go much pleasure from it as he would
il he began the day with such coffee and rolls a.
are served at the Savoy, ate that quality Of bread
again at luncheon and at dinner. and finished each
OF these meals with cup OF Savoy, coffee. It fa
the best Mocha and Costa Rica that can bs
obtained after carefully studying the market.
The favour OF the Mocha berry improves so much
with age that IN the family of an old-fashicned
planter few bags Of coffee are put away each
year, to be used perhaps thirty or forty years
after by later generation. That used as the
Savoy is drawn from stocks older than any which
the private householder can hope to touch. Buh
the buying Of tho coffee is only the beginning OF
the story; II it were treated in a private house
as 10 should be one would smell the coffee rpast-
ing while one ate soup at dinner and hear 10 pass
ing through the mill while the Joint was on tha
table. But ii is not-easy to make arrangements
so elaborate in an ordinary household, where the
cook has at that moment other things 70 do. Ah
the Savoy, however, staff Of nine men do nothing
else but prepare coffee. In order to secure tho
best results they roast the beans in separate lots
OF only about pound each. The roasting machine
has eight separate cylinders, heated by gas and
turned by electricity. At each Of the coffee houra
OF the day, one cylinder after another is Oiled
one, say, being started at O Pm, the next az
pm, and so on, in order TINT each CLIENT coffee
may be fresh. Then the beans are thrown into =
largo sieve, through which air is forced by on cleo
trio fan, quickly cooling the berries. so that 10
deloy may impair their aronn. The coffee q than
ground and distributed to the various parts Of the
hotel. In order that it may not BE- spoiled By
the use OF water that has been boiled TO fatness.
each still room and service room OF the hotel has
q half-gallon boiler arranged TO take steam al
nigh pressure, and the water boils In less than
one minute after ID runs IN from the main.
PRECAUTIONS as elaborate are taken In order
tnN the clients Of the Savoy may have true
Vienna rolls. The finest -four in the world Is
grown in Hungary, The Savoy receives its supply
or Hour from the most important mills In Buds
pest, and nrranges to obtain tho same quality
that Is supplied to the Emperor OF Austrin. Tia
rolls are baked four times daily-for breakfast
for luncheon, for dinner, and for supper-sinca
they would become insipid IL they were allowed 10
stand Such English household broad es is needed
ae the Savoy IS purchased from o London baker.
so that the Savoy bakery occupies itself exclu<
sivSly with the Vienna quality, producing In a
single month 1894 rolls, $40 horseshoes. spd
$500 French loaves.
In addition TO the defects OF ordinary Enrlfsh
cchee and bread, the enjoyment Of clareSs In
England has been Affected by the same causes
which brought so much grief to French clares
drinkers.
Since the splendid year Of 1875, the hardly
less admirable IT, and the highly respectable
: ~ end IS, there were no good vintaves untiI
1S9S {; and after 1898 the world had TO wait for
q good vintage until Ave years ago, when al
last Its patience rewarded BY O. wine not only
better than that Of rs or even III. but vzins
that promises to rival that OF rs. The 200
clarcts are only beginning to find their yav into
the Wlne-ists OF the Savoy Hotels and some tirne
may psss before they viii BE- fully appreciated hr
the general public. Yet-to en- au1ateur who likes
to recuperate his palate Gzriqg "a clnret even
ing by an occasional glass c. young vine, or 20
q man who has genuine regard for the cha
racteriStio freshness thar one finds IN the rezy
ciarets that served &C little inns IN every
part OF the happy four thousand square miles Of
the Garonne and Dordogne watershed and Gironds
" elsretshed to every man whose enthusiasm
carries him into sentences OF artless length when
be thinks OK clareS, the 90 table wines which the
Savoy Hotels serve at Is. and 5s. the bottle-noA
the hsh-bottle-are so much bottled Sunshine.
It Is pleasant to reflect that there arc such
happy days coming for Ssvoyards who love
good cIaret. This 1899 which, unless Ell ths men