Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-06-06
FROM ACROSS THE SEA
STYLES IN MEMS DRESS FROM
ENGLISH METROPoLIa
Some Outing Suits for the Coming
Summer-Evening Dress, Mater
ials and Details,

London Correspondence of the Haberdasher.
with regularity which must have grown
monotonous, have for q long time been re-
porting as the correct trousering for both
frock and full dress morning suits the same
almost unvarying material. fancy stripe
cashmere 1t Is refreshing to be able to
chronicle coming change. During the
summer to which we are looking forward,
anticipate that some very highly placed
leaders of fashion will give their sanction
to checked patterns for formal trousers
and that their lead win be taken up by a
considerable number of London society
| men. The result will be a marked popular
demand. do not suppose that this change
Is going to be universal. There are good
reasons for the long vogue enjoyed by
rectfon of the limb have very great adyan-
tages from the point of view of the aesthe-
tician- They make for becoming effect in
trousers. But all the same, the time for a
variation has come.
Jackets.
Jackets. as 1 have predicted long ago,
show tendency to revert to the older form
at the lower corners, and the long roll to
the lapel which was SO much run into the
ground last year shows signs of decadence.
AS a matter of fact this collar was intro
uuCeu IoT river ana laWn-tenn1S Jackets:
and for these 1t will. during the coming
summer at all events, continue to be cor
rect. though not Indispensable. But by an
alteration for which 1t is to be feared that
our Lonoon taiiors were responsible this
rolled lapel was extended also to ordinary
jackets, and even to morning coats, the last
garment very ill-adapted for it. Presently,
IN the winter, came the spectacle of men
buttoning single-breasted jackets and morn
ing coats by the bottom button, in order to
get an overcoat over them without deform-
ing the fronts; and presently deluding
themselves with the idea that 1t was well
to be seen in houses and drawing-rooms
with coats thus fastened, grisly spectacle!
Even now. some morning coats are made
with the rolled lapel and some Jackets for
general use. But the men whose habits
matter have gone back to the old shape;
and in fact 1t may be easily seen that q
coat or a jacket that is to be worn but
toned cannot well have q rolled collar
Now the temporary unseemliness of open
coats has vanished. the rolled lapel cannot
be long in working itself out.
Outing Suits.
1t is desirable to warn readers of this let
ter against the statement, widely published
| In London, that the river and walking suits
Of the present year will revert to the pat
tern having a dark self of mixture back
ground and thin line over it. AS matter
| of fact do not at all expect that stripes
will be greatly in evidence. The era of the
checked pattern is opening I think that
the most likely color scheme is silver-gray;
but something must necessarily depend
upon the Kind of summer that we get If
1t Is fine and warm and sunny there Is lit
tie doubt that my prediction of silvery-
gray will turn out right If. on the other
hand, we should have another sOmber, rain
sodden year. darker colors, probably black
and white mixtures, and a good deal of fine
finished serge. of the weave called here by
the name "Estemena," will be worn. In any
hirfc xx,in 1o 1,ol1 }r,<j
rurEing to stripes. The latter factor of the
situation, which had become inevitable
some weeks ago, might have saved the peo-
pie who have gone their pile on striped
suitings from a ridiculous error. Stripes
of one kind in the suit, and of another kind
in the shirt, could hardly come into use to-
gether. Regarding the materials for these
suits the only thing that calls for remark
is that true flannel is hardly ever, If at all,
used doubt If it ever was. This year the
fannel-flnished angolas which the public
calls flannel will have a little silk in them;
l fear that the cheaper grades will have
merceriZed Egyptian cotton instead. But
In this connection I shall be grateful to
readers who will remember my prediction
good deal seen this year. replacing the not
wholly satisfactory angolas
Cravats.
Cravats this season run to considerable
variety. For frock coat wear, and the frock
ing coat now ranks with it as full dress.
some very handsome spitalfelds and Mac
clesfield silks in wide ended shapes for ty-
ing puffs are being worn. They have rich
and lustrous all-over pattern, with a neat
spot. Spitalhelds lace" now made In
white as well as in colors. has a great
vogue. With a morning coat whether of
the full dress or the informal kind, knot
is now entirely correct, and 1t need not be
a plain self-colored one; many very seemly
sailors are in dark gray or black with
have a pretty conspicuous pattern. knots of
one plain color continue to be worn. There
has lately been shown by some houses
kind of loosely woven silk. described as OF
English weaving Out 1t is certainly not
hand woven) with a considerable rib effect.
This has sold we'll; but do not think that
it can have given much satisfaction to Its
wearers as the texture lacks solidarity. and
the knot therefore presents a bad effect.
Still less do / like some heavy German
silks, weighted with cotton in the warp
and with all the metallic adulteration that
the dye stuffs will stand to boot, and then
unblushingly sold Spitalfelds. American
import houses will do we'll to look out for
this fraud, a bare-faced one.
Motor Costumes.
Motor garments are beginning to have
certain fashion to govern them. Just now,
the long paletot with Prussian collar is still
being worn. 1t is made very loose, the
back having considerable draping. 1t Is
double breasted and buttons close to the
collar. which very often is covered with
heavy fur. not astrakhan; 1t is not good
form to wear astrakhan or Persian lamb on
an automobile. But this Is essentially
heavy weather garment. In the summer
expect to see something much smarter
Probably frock dust coat in a light
weight of cashmere will be about as dressy
as anything. 1t will no doubt come well
down to the middle of the calf, and have
large, roomy tapped pockets over the hips
as well as two breast pockets. On a motor
you need all the pockets you can carry 1t
would be convenient to make this coat with
covered buttons; plain horn or bone ones
would look rather garish. Very likely some
| enthusiastic motorists will have the idea to
| get unbleached linen dust coats made for
| the hot weather though these will proba-
! bly, be made of a looser and less formal cut
than the garment above.