The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-04-30
; For the Momen.

>eSeNzsN>SssS
Some Of the evening gowns of the
Sonlng summer will be the limit for
-Aitiluless- Lace insertions are incor-
poLated In them with most lavish hand,
ana often the material is of the most
oeilcdte order, chatterS Clara Belle III
the Cincinnati Enquirer. So when a
gown IS composed of alternate bands
or Nalenciennes insertion and thin
nest null, the delicacy of the whole is
remarkable. Batistes and very fnG lin
ems viii be stylish materials for sum-
aer evening get-ups, and organizes ana
SIX muslins, the latter in many hne
and costly imported varieties, will be
used a great deal. Crepe de chine, too,
IS to be reckoned with, for it remains
IN deliciously light weaves, despite the
xact that it was stylish all the past
winter. The general manner of max
ing is to be elaborate. In not Few
models the materials are tortured ana
trimmed until a square inch OF PLAN
goods is hardly discOVerable, ana gowns
that ordinary folk would consider as
approaching simplicity are rare. 1 have
Bketched three samples. The left-hand
one was soft white silk ana irish lace
with made trimming of the silk. Next
this was a gown of pale blue SILK mus
lin with rnousselfne trimming OF
Wreaths and rOsettes, and last comes a
figured yellow silk combined with a
plain yellow silk and trimmed Win
Chantiily. A great many inquired eN-
enfng materials are on hand, and show
moons picuous coverings, for the most
part. In the solid color goods white
and delicate evening shades constitute
the choice while in the lowered mater
ials several colors are introduced. This
makes a simpler matter of supplying
original trimming, but the colors Of the
tiny blossoms usually are far from
bold. The rule for foundations of color
to match has few exceptions. Silks ana
lawns are employed for this purpose.
fine medium for slender folk, INTO
which plump women are venturing, IS
the long-tailed tailored coat. 1t adds
much to the apparent girth Of the hips
SO Will do nicely for those women who
are lacking there, but for full figures
It is most unbecoming, fact that
many tailOrs seem to overlook. The
garment is seen on the streets time al
ter time on women who shouldn't have
attempted it. It appears both IN Sc
we're and in the more elaborated suits
zone form of it I have pictured in a
suit that was severe almost to the SuS-
EeStiOn of SpOrtineSS- 1t IS in rear view
that these coats make fairly large hips
seem huge. This model was in gray
tweed. Very little of the tailoring be-
ing done for summer partakeS OF Sucn
severity. Skirts, especially, tend tow
ard ornateness, and naturally the
bodices are not without some Ornamen-
tation. On the whole, however, there
is less of the fanciful in the trimming,
though individuality is sought after by
all stylish dressers The remaining
suits in my sketches are nearer to the
average tailor get-up than was the
first one. The first of these was PLAIN
blue Siciienne trimmed with blue
Sicilienne in which were lines of white.
Dark blue cloth was the material of
the gown at the right of this, and the
suit of the smaller picture was DARK
red wolfe, finished with narrow black
passementeRie in imitation of fagoting.
The prevalence of lace rulings as wrist
finish is rejected in tailor suits, but
only the less snowy sorts are permit
ted, and on severely made gowns OF
on walking suits the employment OF
such ornamentation is in questionable
taste.
Skirt trimmings of elaborate forms !
are advised for all manner of summer
materials. Most of them take the \
form of round and round bands, and |
what is especially discOuraging to wo- |
men who can't wear such trimmings,
these horizontal embellishments some |
how have a more stylish look than do
most of the schemes got up to eVade /
them. Whatever the material, the
bands are wide, two, three or four of
them being enough almost to hide the /
dress goods from hem to hip. Besides |
these there often is a wide band at or /
near the top of the skirt, this last in /
suggestion of tight yoke. Effects of |
OVerskirtS are many, if faint, and they /
are at their strongest in the models /
that stand as concession to plump /
ness.
indications are positive that the |
slOping shoulder won't last a great |
while longer, though just at present /
1t is in the best of standing. Before !
very long, however. the women who /
are pioneers in fashion matters will
be found in square shoulders, and |
copying them Will be prompt or slow
according to the way the majority of
women take to the radical change.
The sleeves called for by the present (
forms of slope are huge in their big
gest circumference. Women proud of
tiny waists-how few they are to
what they were only a few years ago
are taking advantage of these i'm
mense puffs to make their waists seem
even timer This is done by having
the sleeves greatest fullness right OPP
posite the waists trig round, and as
the latter will be the smaller its
wasp-like proportions are emphasized.
Just now shoulder slope is nowhere
a matter of more painstaking effort
than in the tiny silk coats being pre-
pared for summer. The big majority
of these are of the loosest cut possible /
below the bust line, but to that point I
are fitted to a nicely. Trimmings may /
be applied to their trigness, but not in /
such way as to make it less apparent !
Usually the establishment serves only |
to accentuate the accuracy of it. Much /