Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-08

PARIS, September "A, 1904.
The gay capital was thrown into a futter
of genuine excitement this week when the
cabs appeared upon the boulevards and
avenues equipped with the new taxameter.
This little instrument, it is hoped, will put
an end to the uncomfortable disputes which
constantly arise between the cabby and his
fare. A dial indicates the exact amount
due the driver and the distance Travelled.
Thanks to this piece of mechanism, the
cabman accepts the equivalent for the time
indicated on the dial without word of
protest and more wonderful still, this jehu
seems entirely satisfied, as the cab proprie-
tors only demand seventy-five per cent of
the earnings, leaving twenty-five for the
cabman.
The grand prix municipal is considered
the signal for society's return to town. and
at present shooting parties are the thing.
\ revolution has taken place and you must
know that the smart PariSienne is very
keen on sports nowadays Still, elegant
mondaines leave the links and moors to
pay hurried visits to town to interview their
dressmakers; consequently the Rue de Ia
Paix is quite bright and attractive these
pleasant afternoons After all, Paris is
never wholly deserted; it is at least the
hating place for travellers and the happy
hunting ground of all nations In the mat
ter of clothes.
AT the ateIiers one constantly hears
patron insisting that Monsieur w. give her
something really smart for the autumn
something that l shall not see worn by
every American l meet" There is surely
triumph in this appeal of the french Wo-
nan from the sartorial taste of the chic
Americana, which she realizes is quite up
TO her own standard. The best-gowned Wo-
men the world over now know that the eX-
cIusfveness of a toilet lies in the perfectiono OF
cut. which, unlike trimmings and frllls, IL
is impossible to copy. Therefore the Paris
ieEne comes forth this month very simply
dressed. Every one admires the stunning
cut of her coats and skirts, and the general
public wonders how it is that there is MOTH
ing to copy. The tactics of the Parisienne
are not difficult to appreciate. She has few
toilets a time but these are put up by an
artist. for she has faith in the small
dressmaker even for the less ambitious
frocks, blouses and negliges which she pre-
fers to trust to her maid, letting the i'm
mortal twelve build her street and cere-
monious costumes. She also knows as well
as her couturier that the first autumn nov
elites are always overturned and are
worn by strangers within and without the
gates of Paris.
A Semblance of Horror.
Apropos of novelties. many startling in
novations are on the horizon of the sar-
torial world Not the least of them is a
that cry of wolf which annually scares So
ciety. Certainly semblance of the thing
IS quite visible in the fullness and shape of
trimming put on the new skirts made in
many of the leading houses. We are slow
Iy, but surely. approaching the crinoline
vogue of the third empire minus the hoop,
and if the materials now employed were
not of so supple a nature the effect would
be heightened.
The new close-fitted, pointed bodiCes are
delightfully."- becoming when well cut. but
are an impossible style for the inexperi-
enced hand. The material for such a waist
is arranged over a tight-titted lining and
gathered upward. crossing the bodice in
irregular folds This fulIness runs up in
some models TO an empiecement of lace or
pasSementerie, while on others the crossed
gatherings finish below the bust. giving
somewhat the effect of a high corselet
Most of these cross ga thered waists nave
tucked up sleeves that end at the elbow
with an almost skin-tight cuff effect. There
is tendency to introduce the. pelerine with
the gigot manche. which form of sleeve
with its voluminous gathers at the top,
holds out the shoulder draperies to the
very best advantage That all sleeve mod
els shall be gathered exceedingly full from
the shoulders is a recent command, and l