The Montgomery advertiser., 1904-10-09
A MODE SoUPLE" reigns su-
 preme In Paris, and everything that pertains to dress, cloths.


 velvcts, silks, trimmings. is Just as sheer and supple as can be manu- factured.
 There simply must not be even hint of stiffness in the arrangement of any part of a gown. for that would entirely destroy the supple outline which Dame Fashion insists for the nonce is the only one permissible. And yet with tha extreme of sheerness and chiffon-liks qualities that characterize all of the fashionable materials, 1t is quite a vexed problem just how all of this suppleness shall be made to sustain its shape. How the masses of sheer voilc, crepe de chine chiffon velvets and such. that often measure from six to a dozen yards at the foot, are 10 be kept from saggins fin forlornly around the ankles Is one or the questions that test the ingenuity or the designer
 Persistent rumors of crinoline prevail. and one Parisian couturier, whose es- tablishment leads in novelties. has al ready sent out model with three stiff hoops run in the drop skirt If this
 
 does? But happily 1t is not by any means true or sure that every model put forth meets with acceptance. Woman kind in general, and tho fashionable mon daine in particular, Is d law unto herself where fashions are concerned; and 1t is doubtful if anything could induce even the most frivolous of them to be rcspon- nf hat of fun for which the old-time crinoiine was responsible.
 The new fashions that will prevail for the late autumn and early winter wear show us now developments in materials with which We arc already fa- miliar. For instance. the new ch!ron velvet is now shown in an ottoman rib. that closely resembles fine pattern in corduroy, except that the ridges are not SO marked. The velvetccns, too. are In the chiffon weavcs and in the delicate colorings they show that exquisite ..hlom" on the surface that hitherto one has seen only on the most expensive ot the silk velvets.
 The crepcs, the Chinese, the Canton, the meteor and such. arc if anything more crcpe- like than before The surface IS crinkly, and 1t falls In such softly draping folds that 1t has taken. new lease of fashionable favor for the draped bodices that are such novelty. The newest idea fin crcpes comes in double width-S inches wide-which makes 1t delightfully."- adaptable for the new skirts; and 1t cuts to so much better advantage that one really needs less approximately of 1t to make gown than in the single width. that has hitherto been the only one ob- tainable. except in the very expensive qualities.
 For the dre6sior toilets. those for the street. calling and such like purposes. the chiffon broadcloths are considered quite the correct thing. These have satin. like surface and dull luster that make them very attractive, and tho lights ard shades that appear in the folds are ar- tistIc 10 a degree. Then there are the velvet wcavcs, and the silks. and all of th silk mixed goods, the crcpons-a re- cent revival-pDplius, eolionnes silk Yoiles and the like; all of which at in beautiful- Iy with the accepted outlines of Madame La Mode,
 Perhaps it is in the disposal of her trim ming and color schemes that the clever girl who designs her own toilets will make her most conspicuous triumphs this coming season. Trimmings arc 10 be lay- tshly elaborate. and color sahcmes-for the note of color contrast is 10 be a pr1- nounccd one-must be clcverly handled lest they prove pitfall for the unwary.
 There is perfect furor for all of the new burnt tints Indeed. run down the color card makes the student of fashions think of q very careless cook. SO many tints have got burnt or scorched. There Is burnt bread. burnt orange and burnt onion. burnt ivory and scorchcd leather and burnt umber punctuate the gamut of tints from the palcst ecru to the deepest brown: and the smoked tints. as a logical sequence bring up the rear. It all sounds like a newspaper account of fire and the phrase "a fire in a paint shop" comes irresistihly to mind when viewing the color card that the French manufacturers have sent out for the guidance Of their clients the world over.