The St. Louis Republic., 1904-09-11

REPTBTJc SPECIAL
New York Sept. Ia-Burrli onions leads
in the lis, OF briIiian; coIorin;s tina; are
tn make the woman Of fashion conspicu-
GUS this tall Mrs. Harriet Fay..s told the
International Society os Dressrnaker> las;
might.
Froci;s are 90 b. even more yoluminoGs
than ever-thir-y feet around the bottom
of the skirts fashions new desir~ To
wear them with any approach 10 ETaoe
one must have physical strength and
shapely figure.
The art OF obtaining the latter was eS-
plainej in cnr~et Demonstration that
preceded the regular talks Of the dress
makers
Burnt onion. whether you like the name
or not and burnt orange are to 1e i'm
mensely popular this year. explained Mrs.
Fayes- 1T is to he a season OF brilliant
coiors The wearing Of the green viii he
in favor. especially tlie bronze green, anc
those In the inyrtl. and lizard shades.
Vests. cuffs and revsrs will BE- Of the
popular leather ans. oopper shades. thai
harnionize with the blue. green. brown and
with almost every fashionable color eN-
cept red.
piece costume in which the cape and skirt
are OF the same material. while the bOdi'-
matches IN color. but . OF o different ma
feriaL
NEW SKIRTS SHORTER.
"Ts, skirt that fell several inches over
the ground in front has gone out Of style
The sll-around skirt just touching the
ground In front and a little longer in the
back and the ins;ep Lengths are correct
for all the purposes the instep skirt being
used even for reception dress.S-
.'Popi;n IS one OF the mos favored ma,
tefials OF the season. and there Is revival
Of the U.s. of cashmere and other soft ma
terials Velvet IL highly approven ana
cloth skirt and velve; jacket OF tho sam"
shade in Direc;o!r~ style viii be exceed
in2iy smart. A touch Of chenille j. seen
or many 0: the velvet erocks-
Buttons are used more generously than
they have been for a long time. not "niy
on eoets and Sodiees, but IN tfiminins hd
Few have much fuiinsss below the elbow.
some being severely plain from vais; 10
elbow. They will require just as much
IL not more material. however. than the
sleeves that have been In style
Everything IN fashion. sway IS radically
differen, from the past seasons style and
the realm Of Grss-es isn't the only point
To be effected.
FIGURES MIST CHANGE.
The blow that nearly stunned the dress
maker is that. although the s,raight-front
corset is still proper. the human digger
slopins bus with Mrs. Le-iie Carter .f-
feet by the joy OF the artistic eye.
Dre.smsking Is really human architec
SO the female form divine Is to Be remod-
eied according to human architecture
rules.
The evolution Of the bust is the var
cry at the convention. and henceforth. to
be perfectly proper. the hish-bisted eor~ei
must be worn.
brsnd-new model, which has been duobed
the ''prize-Hghters delight and IL IL not
by Ps1uin or Beer. but II is very effective
The broad shoulders produced by the new
leg-of-muston sleeves and the high bust
are responsible
The whole trouble started from the NO
ces-ity Of the female anatomy keeping
iofore they were pulled below the elbow
and the bust drooped. Nov the sleeves
are exactly reversed. and the eSsctinz
minds OF the fashion aspirinG dressn1ak-
ers- have decreed tha. the big puHs shall
be at the top Of the sleeve.
PROTEST FROM KANSAS.
1T amt exactly what I call proper
said q It'll. woman with a pad and pencil
In her hand. and who saId she vas :hs
leading dre.xmak.r OF wameso. Kas.
Il doa't think this here r1eddiin' with -he
fsser is right: ! paid my % dues aud
CAM tHe Wy fss' iusc 10 sol OUT
people up as stylish AZ they are a; Tope-
Ia. and the frs; thing I've 20; io tell
them Is TO change their dgR@rs-
Just then Miss Howard. who -as .aik-
ing from the platform. sent another bomb
Into the MIDI Of the serious dressmsksrs
hy calmly announcing that there wasn't
one woman out o: thousand WHO didn't
have curvature OF the spine
Sear;y every woman in bigger IN orr
hso than the other. and their curves az
tine waist s-e rot perfect" she said
We'll. that makes me tired" said ;hS
WameSo dfessEnake-. 'fs do say Z. a.
shouldn't I haven't anythinS the matter