Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-07-16
FROM ACROSS THE SEA
HINTS ON NEWS DRESS FROM
ENGLISH METROPOLIS.
Worsteds Will Re Worn az q Fall
Fashion-1ti.tory Of tn.
Wing Collar.

London Correspondence, of The Haberdasher.
| In my last letter described the fashions
likely to be In vogue for summer and out
ing wear during the season. Although in
| July the autumn seems yet affair on, there
| can be no harm In forecast of what
modes are to be expected to come in with
the opening of the shooting season and the
| country house parties of September on
| wards. Shooting suits may be said to have
been covered by what 1 said last month
about Norfolks. There is no doubt that
| homespuns in heather mixtures and bold
patterns with brown tone will be the
| wear for moor and stubble alike; but when
| the autumn golf season sets in 1 antici-
pate a change in the clothing specially
| adapted for that pastime. Of course en-
! thusiasts play golf all through the summer;
| but there Is a marked revival of 1t every
| autumn. and I think it will be found that
! a general change will be noticea BILE in golf
suits by that time. In place of the long
| favored Norfolk. a jacket of rather a spe-
| cial kind will be favored. This I describe
| farther along in my letter.
Material will be pretty much what we
| have come to regard as inevitable; home
| spun Of one kind or another; but the Nor
1 folk Jacket has been voted inconvenient,
| and will be replaced by Jacket OF a DIFF
| ferent sort. worn with knicker5ockers to
| match. made without ends and simply
| gathered to the knee with an elastic band.
| The jacket will be longer than a lounge
| Jacket cut loose over the shoulders and
| with free arm holes and sleeves but fitting
| in snugly at the waist. Below the waist
| line. 1t will be loose again, end it will have
| well. rounded fronts and six-inch open
| ing In the middle Of the back. There will
| be large tapped pockets over the hips. and
| q fiapped-ticket pocket on the right, as
usual: the exterior breast pocket for hand
kerchien will be optional, but think it will
generally be put in. as the garment Is OBJ
| vtOusly one for comfort and ease rather
| thar appearance. 1t Is, in fact a rather
| ungainly looking affair. The neck opening
| Will be fairly high on both jacket and waist
| coat. and the jacket lapels will be pressed
| back to the top button, not rolled as in
sun mer outing suits.
| Question Of Lapels.
| This question of lapels Is one of the
| most important things to be considered
| in connection with autumn fashions. be-
| cause 1t is not at all easy Just now to see
how the cat is going to jump. At present,
| the rule is clear enough, On a jacket de-
signed for ordinary use. the rolled lapel Is
not used; we wear these jackets buttoned
| to the usual place: but for outing and river
suits the rolled lapel Is proper, as Hen
| ley will be showing. Morning and frock
| coats are almost universally made with the
ordinary collar. and worn buttoned; but the
rolled lapel idea Is not by any means dead,
| though its manifold inconveniences are
troublesome to those who retain it in the
| wrong place. A great many men like it.
| though its drawbacks annoy them. You
cannot put on an overeoat with rolled
| lapel jacket or coat without having to
| meet the difficulty of buttoning Buttoned
low, 1t makes the overcoat sit badly, But
toned high 1t spoils It's own collar Con-
| sequently, If there Is to be revival of
rolled lapels outside the outing require
| merit, l think modification in the whole
cut of coats and jackets may appear on the
| scene, and 1t Is not a very difficult matter
| to see the lines upon which designers will
proceed to get the best effect.
what am about to say Is. of course,
wholly provisional. and contingent upon the
rolled-iapel men getting their way. The
| plan most obviously suited to meet the case
would be this. All the buttons except the
| ing coat, while i'm frockcoat the top but
ton alone would disappear and the same
with a jacket The fapels would be deep.
and cut In a curve, being pressed to the
| button. instead of being rolled and the
morning coat would be very freely cut away
| in the skirts. Thus we should have. instead
or rolled collar, very low collar of
| the ordinary type, and a high collarless
slnsle-breasted waist coat would be worn
with it.. 1t Is not likely that just this style
would become prevalent at bound; but
II would 6e gradually evolved, and is the
| inevitable outcome of a revival of rolled
collars on any coats or jackets In the least
degree formal In character. You can dis
| tlnctly see the approach to this in such
coats as are made with rolled ldpels at
| the present time, and 1t does not need an
| eye very deeply practiced in the mode to
see what the outcome will be. 1t is plain
10 any one who studies dress
The fact Is that rolled lapels (Which I
| take some pride In remembering that |
| was one of the first critics to mention as a
| probability are clumsy device. The soft
ron VIII not keep In shape. and 1t causes
| the upper part of the garment to sag and
slew In an untidy and Objectionable man
ner. The essential feature of it, and the
thlng which commends 1t to the faithful few
who still cling to 1t, Is not the soft roll
out the low position of the turn. and the
evolved coat which I have described pro-
Vlslonally above would give the advantage
! of this, without the dement's of the old
form This fancy, is clear to the dulest
eye.
Worsteds Popular.
Worsteds seem likely to have a great
vogue this autumn, not only for formal
coats, but also for Jacket suits of the more
dressy kind which have so much improved
| their social status In recent years. l think
that fancy waistcoats, collarless and SIN
| gle breasted still, will continue to be worm
| and 1t Is noticeable that in the light cash
mere suits. which are altogether outclassing
the old fannel-fnished ansolas this sum-
mer, white flannel or other waistcoat
win SIidil spot pattern, Is the very smart
est thing. and looks really admirable. l
think that the prevalence of the double
collar has as much as anything else to do
with the obsolescence Of the double-breast-
ed Waistcoat. There Is no device known
to man by which a double breasted waist
coat can be made to look smart with fold
collar. 1t can't and doesn't.
CraVat fashions this autumn are not like
iy TO make any very serious move from
what We see now. The older and strtcter
form OF the Ascot. in which the aprons
are pinned down fairly low, so that the
barrel can be seen, Is returning to favor;
but good many puffs are worn with morn
ing coats. There has always been sort
of brotherly love between the frock coat
and the strict Ascot do not think the
fact that the Ascot week is just upon US
has anything to do with this revival of the
strict form. There is no connection be-
tween Ascot races or Ascot lawn and the
Ascot cravat The simple fact Is that the
old form Is better looking with a formal
| coat than the rather loose-jointed puff.