New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1904-12-02
THE UBIQUITOUS sHIRTWAIsT.
In Spite OF It's Enemies Women Still Cling
to It-Present Modes

American women positively refuse let the sep
arate shtrtwaist go out of fashion said a well
known costuner recently. We dressmakers were all
ready to give it the go by this year but
| toners rose up in and declared their
swerving loyalty to it, The reason? II can be
summed up in word-its usefulness. The separate
waist-and especially the dressy variety-flls
place in the average American wonaus swardrobe
that never be filed by anything else. For the
lucky woman who owns carriage or an auto
| mobile handsome gowns for afternoon wear are all
! very well. bat for her less favored sister who
must patroniZe the streetcars when she goes
! and receptions the dressy waist he worn with a
! tailor suit is her only salvation Again. for the
+ theatre via the elevated trolley. what else
there for the everyday woman to wear?
In these days. however, the separate waist no
longer goes by that name. but is spoken Of as
blouse, and generally with the French pronunc.a-
ton"
"Crerands Cloak Journal remarks that the pres
ent blouses without exception marked by GER
tain artistic treatment which dinerentiates them
from their predecessors those of a wear ago
This is due. says the journal. 10 the general
change in and style all the seasons gar
and to the wide difference in the choice and
use Of fabrics as contrasted with those of former
seasc s.
with high shoulder full top sleeves and sr1rnli,a
front This style increases the apparent bust d.
mension, and. partly by the Of the deep
pointed bodice. decreases the waist measurement
One model, of ombre chiffon taffeta in tones If
ole blue and faded rose built these lines is thus
described:
The material either side OF the front was
set in a series OF sloping pin tucks which formed
the surplice fulness and opened over a vest NJ
chiffon and lace. There touches OF veIvot
in American Beauty shades, and Maltese lace
shoulder insertions and wrist 1nishings The
sleeves were tucked and drawn UP high toward the
shoulder by means of shirred cords The girdIa
was a crushed affair boned and carefully fitted
from he
the waist"
The heavier silks are still in favor made with
pleats both fine and heavy The Gibson and The
Pompadour unite in OF the new models giving
a broadly pleated. shoulder extension front with
a square neck cut anC allied in with fine. han
work or material in dir contrast to the waist
stuff one especially Iov-Iv blouse was Of heavy
ivory silk, Qloat extending over the shoulder and
forming the fitness across the front There was =
quantity of japanese hand embroidery across the
front. starting from one shoulder and following an
irregular course to within a couple Of inches Of
the other The motif stCrks in flight done I'm
white, with tip suggestions Of black and touch Of
bright red on the mead each OF the birds The
edges of the sharply pointed girdle were outlined
with tiny cordng of red over-whipped with
black The neck in a little square and
inald with hand wrought lace The sleeves were
elbow length. and ended in many hources of black
chiffon over white frill This whole waist was
Many Of the handsomest blouses Of silk or fine
linen are trimmed with this exquisite japanese en-
broldery. Just now II has the virtue OF uncommon
ness because OF its high price. but machine imita-
lions will in all prota bity. be the market
Crepe de chine, brOcades lace paine crepe, net.
messaline, peau de cygne and louisne-all these
terals are used for the exploitation of waist
fancies The net and lace all draped in series
% shirrngs which draw the material up the front,
dispensing with any blouse suggestion. and on
either side into the shoulders
For the fancy tops dinner waists coats worn
with white skirts velvet is the most popular ma
terial This fashion taken up at Dieppe and
Barritz last summer. and weekend guests at in
formal English country house parties are said 10
find i a convenient form Of dinner dress. Az or
the Gressmakers conventions held IN New York
City fall showed models OF this style. one
model described in Paris letter IS theatre coat
OF blue chiffon velvet embroidered with silver Ihe
sleeves entirely Of lace and made in TWO puns.
the lower ending in ruhie below Inc elooW
and the lace the sleeves is extended IKE epau-
let's only inset. across the shoulder 20 the neck
hand. The velvet is shirred hack and 'front.' agalnSt
the lace and tucks under belt 10 emo IN lute9 mp
nieces There is a lace vest and the sides OF the
{acket which arc embroidered. fall in little rounded
loose tabs a trife the belt. Under these taps
there is a tabot OF lace, but IN spi..s % al diesh
details garment Is not tiio 'tAssI-