The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-05-21
The Sunday Journal, by Mail.
$3.50 per Annum.
GOWNS FOR GIRL GRADUATES
NOW OF GREAT TEST INTEREST
Material May Be Fine but the General Effect Mnt Be that
Smpiicity--S0me Pretty Styles

gowns require perfect skill. AS a matter OF
fact, waist and skirt are separate and are
Joined beneath-a fold or cord shirring or
some similar device is employed-but. what
ever this may be. the lines of the figure
must be retained, and few of the models are
really as good as those with either Sashes
or girdles. although French designers APP
pear to like them greatly and have sent
over some that are really beautiful and
tempting. In one instance both skirt and
waist are shirred on fine cords and
skilfully manipulated that the point OF
joining is absolutely invisible but unless
these shirrings are made in the softest
terials and the lines are just right the
suit would be clumsy one. and. I have
already stated; the deep girdles and belts
seem more girlish and appropriate.
Some of the 1880 models are most fas-
chatting in their quaintness and not a few
are seem One that i have in mind Pc
culiarly good is made OF null and is en-
tirely trimmed with the material. save
for the uRlned yoke. which is of Valen-
oiennes lace, and fine tucking in alternate
strips The skirt is plain for a narrow
space at the front. gathered at the belt
and arranged in two narrow tuck shirrings
at yoke depth. Trimming it three
double ruffies set a generous space apart
and the uppermost at a little above knee
depth that are shirred 10 form double puffs
and are put on i'm waved outlines. The
draped closely about the body, but in soft
folds. and is drawn down over the belt on TO
the skirt and its yoke is finished with a
deep cape-like bertha that is closely shirred
at its edge and midway of its width and
is finished with full puffngs or what the
French call bouillonees, that are most effec-
tive. The sleeves are the dear oid-time
ones that form very full puffs but extend
only to the elbows, where they are finished
with frills in angel style and are TO be met
with long suede gloves. The whole effect
Is a delight and the gown eminentIy appro-
pirate as well a distinct success
In addition to the muslins there is simple
white net which is pretty and effective and
tends to make variety. A most picturesoue
gown made thereof shows this same 1880
skirt but trimmed with puffings of the net
that terminate at each side of the narrow
plain front. where each end is finished with
one OF the big, soft choux for which there
Is no English term that seems to give quite
the same meaning. The bodice is made in
surplice style and is very full at the shoul-
ders, where IL is drawn away from the neck
and Is finished with an unlined yoke OF
Nalenclennes lace, while at the waist is a
deep corselet belt of soft Liberty satin that
is laid in many folds. but arranged over so
carefully ntted foundation that il does not
increase me size OF the waist and gives
admirable lines. In the sleeves however
much of the glory lies. They are fun and
gathered TO form three puffs from shoulders
10 elbows then are finished with the long
full frills of lace that suggest the angel
model. These frills are narrower at tho
inside, but graduated in such manner
that they are exceedingly deep at the outer
portion, where they droop well over the
skirt: With them, as a matter OF course.
Will be worn long gloves and let me add.
all these short sleeves have brought about
some new and lovely sorts With this spe-
cial gown they will be silk embroiderej ON
the wrists. but many are inset with lace
ana otherwise made elaborate.
TO SUIT MANY OCCASIONS.
Some of the shrewdest of the girls. who
are to receive their parchmenis before many
weeks. are so planning their gowns that
they will serve for dinners and dances the
summer through, and nothing answers their
purpose better than the deep yokes that can
he rar x.ad aF1h
AS elbow sleeves are to be worn for all o.
casions. they need no change. and the trans
formation can really be effected with very
little effort One of these that is most suc-
cessful is made of very fine and sheer ba-
tiste. and Is simply full. in baby style. with
fascinating little tucker of lace ana
sleeves that are big puffs TO the elbows
when low. but is made entirely appropriate
for graduation use by a big yoke collar that
is exquisitely made and is all OF finest hand
sewed tucks and lace insertion. with a wide
frill as nnish: The accompanying skirt IN
simply made, but Is trimmed with groups OF
gathered ruffies that are finely tucked and
lace edged. A second gown which = NOT
quite so easily transformable, bur will be
robbed of its yoke later. is of null ard is
made with very full soft waist below the
yoke Of tucks inset with lace rnedallions.
and is finished with shirred bertha that
is most becoming and which forms a frill
that is edged with lace banding Its sleeves
are big elbow puffs with two frills above
| that are edged 10 match the bertha. and
| the skirt Is full, gathered at the belt, but
| trimmed with two fiounces, also lace edged.
| that are gathered 10 form double headngs
| One OF the loveliest OF the embroidered
| gowns / have seen shows this same full
| skirt. but Is trimmed with deep points OF
needlework that set a few Inches apart
and quite surround IL at the lower edge
in this case the full waist includes a yoke
| that also is embroidered in points and full
| pulled sleeves with deep mitten cuffs OF the
| needework.
The younger girls. those who are leaving
cchool only TO enter college, wear shorter
| skirts but the same lovely lingerie mus
| Inns and trimmings. II possible they are
kept simpler still, but tucks. shirriRgs and
/ the like are seen galore. A really lovely
| one Is made OF the favorite null and il
| daintiness itself. The skirt Is plain at tho
front, shirred to form a yoke at sides and
back. and is finished with hem and tucks
| that are hand-sewed- The bodice is made
| with a round yoke OF fine tucks and VAL
enciennes insertion that extends well over
the arms. and is shirred below IL TO give a
/ bertha effect. The sleeves are big puns
| above deep cuffs that match the yoke. and
both they and the bodice are trimmed with
a ruche of the material that gives ho-
| Zero effect. With IL Will be worn sash
| OF soft ribbon, white openwork stockings
| and white shoes. Another is even palmer
| as TO skirt but Is shirred TO form hip yoke
and shows the fullness arranged TO fall
! in box plaits at the lower edge, where IL
/ is finished with wide hem. The waist
also is delightfully."- girlish and is shirred
to form a yoke. below which IL is fun
| and which is outlined with bertha Of
| finest embroidered muslin. while tho
sleeves are shirred 10 mt the upper arms
snvgly and gathered into cuffs that also
are embroidered. as Is the simple stock
| collar. Material and trimming the same
! as worn by the elder sister. but the style
is delightfully."- girlish and nothing either
more charming or more ias1ionae s..rS csgid
be desired. NAY MASTOS-