davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Montgomery advertiser., 1904-01-24

thought the occasion demanded it. These 1 visiting gentlemen brought with them clothing and food, which made a welcome addition to the wardrobe and fare of their | soldier friends. Up to this time they had met only their soldier friends and ac- | quaintances and had been treated with great deference and respect.
 These gentlemen were of course all draped in civilian clothes, and the doctor besides wore a silk hat. This article of head gear, as everybody at all familiar with Confederate soldiers knows. was in- Variably a target for their raillery and Jibes.
 The way of the party at first lay along the Ridge. occupied by the soldiers. and as 1t passed, attracted attention. The sol diers came out of the trenches to look at the crowd. The doctor was mounted on large artillery horse. and was rather a conspicuous figure. The soldiers at once began to guy him about his hat. some comparing 1t to a churn and calling for butter-milk. others comparing 1t to & bee-gum, and calling for honey, and some more audacious than others pretending that the doctor was hiding in this gum, called to him saying Come out of that gum, I know you are in there, for I see your legs sticking out
 The doctor. as I have said. was in- tensely Southern. and greatly interested m the war, and he was ready to treat every Confederate soldier as hero and a patriot. This disposition of the sol uleIs 10 guy and jibe was a surprising aiiu shocking revelation to him, and it n nas plain he did not. take it in good part Oe1hs told that "the boys meant
The Montgomery advertiser., 1904-01-24
POPE WILL NOT CONSENT

 Under. Any Circumstances for Al,
 phonse to Marry Blood Relative. Rome Correspondence of The Courier
 Journal.
 Merry Del Val, papal Secretary 0. State. himself Spaniard of distinguish ed family. wrote a confidential letter to Queen Maria Christina, advising her that Pope Plus will under no circumstances grant dispensation to allow King AL phonso to marry a blood-relative. The announcement was made in consequence of the newspaper betrothal" between Alphonso and his 13-year-old cousin, Ma ria Del Pillar of Bavaria. The story. 1t Is believed. was given out in order to ascertain the holy fathers views on marriage between blood-relatives. As matter of fact the Bavarian Princess could not possibly be acceptable. as her own mother had to secure a dispensation from Pope Leo to make possible her marriage to the Bavarian cousin. Ram polla helped her to achieve that end, but he Is now out of office and Pope Plus has more decided views on the subject than his predecessor
The Montgomery advertiser., 1904-01-24

to the man who would be successful in the marts of the world as is that of brains. The shabbily dressed man has no chance at all The well groomed man is the man who forRes ahead. I will admit that in many cases the former may possess a more scientific brain, but the latter s brain Is developed in a manner that it would be well for the scientist to study and copy from a success point of view.
 There is too much competition today for any man to delude himself with the idea that his coat matters little. that the world will judge him by his character and mind and not by his habiliments. The giants of commerce. finance, law or poli- tics are the men whose dress is up to date in every detail. Of course. in making this assertion I do not forget that there are exceptions to every rule and such men as Russell Sage have forced themselves into prominence irrespective of clothes. It cannot be done today. The world has changed since Mir. Sage first loomed on the financial horizon. and the man of brains has been clever enough to grasp this fact
The Montgomery advertiser., 1904-01-24

be deplored. We may recall the words of Pope:-
 Re not the first by whom the new Is tried, Nor yet the last to lay the old aside.
 It is not necessary that a woman make herself conspicuous" either by extrava- Fant display of finery or by contemptuous disregard of prevailing styles. IH either case. think the controlling power and motive are the same-vanity and the de- sire to attract attention.
 This is more true. perhaps. of the Trump as you style her, than of the other. Some women gown themselves in ultra fashionable manner for various req sons, some to show that they can afford 1t, others to show that they know. just what Is the mode. while still others. in whom the desire for leadership is inher- ent, do this because circumstances do not permit them to lead in any other way. They are \denied the sort of leadership which attracts their husbands in politics, in profession or in business, and so as- sert their individuality in the manner described. So we may regard the vanity of the fashion leader as pardonable in many instances.
 The woman who dresses unbecomingly through choice, and thereby detracts from her own natural charms, not for the sake of economy but because she courts noto- riety. is guilty of as great a vanity as she who makes the adornment of her body the first consideration.
 We find eccentrics in dress among both sexes. These are the people who are either little weak mentally or those wiO desire to be regarded as "geniuses,' hold ing themselves superior to the ordinary
The Montgomery advertiser., 1904-01-24

mate knowledge of human nature (femi- nine, of course) has been pushing forward to the front of what is now considered an art, modes-set forth the question of clothes against brains very pertinently:-
 There is no question of clothes and brains:' there can be none. The well dressed woman is always a woman of keen intelligence and brain power. Ne senseless doll knows how to dress. She may don gaudy raiment, spend a fortune on a gown so utterly inappropriate to the occasion one can only feel an intense pity for her. but one would never dream of laying the burden of her sin against good form and good taste at the door of the whole sex.
 "The woman who dresses well and l when I say well I mean in conformity with her age. her station in life. her po- sition in society (we will leave out her income). choosing neither extreme of the prevailing fashion. striking the happy me dium, which requires more thought than mere man has any idea offs the woman who has brains enough to discriminate 1 and make use of the best evolved from the brains of the artists who create and design the fashions of the day. Display of Bad Taste. There is less nerve raclSng display of bad taste at present than there was ten
 
 realize the fact that it is a wise precau- ton to put herself in the hands. of her modiste. and it requires more brains and intelligence to be merely the dressmaker' today than in the days of our grandmoth- CTS. Then it was the problem of one silk gown a season, and, that solved the question was considered settled for the year.
 To-day there are dozens of creations to be designed for the smart woman's ward robe during the seasons. Each must be different and planned out with the living model constantly before ones mind. The stout woman cannot be gowned as her thin sister is, yet the general framework must be the same Lines which are dreams on the slender woman are night mares on the one inclined to embonpoint, and yet each insists upon the same gener- al lines. Can you not gain some faint idea of the problems which confront us daily? Perhaps it would be more apropos were you to say:-Modiste versus brains for certainly the profession, nay, the art of dressmaking is a very intricate one these days. and yet with the great cry for something new, new. new! ever ring ing in our ears I can only echo the vail of the Empress Josephine's maid:--
 There is nothing new under the sum"
 That the question of dress is one of inn mense importance to the male portion of humanity Is fully demonstrated by the following words of wisdom pronounced by the Teufelsdrockh of tailors:- 'Vhe man or woman who puts forth the assertion that disregard of dress denotes brains in these days of twentieth century enlightment Is fool or a knave. The question of clothes is as important today
The Montgomery advertiser., 1904-01-24

amenities of society. As a rule these per-
 sons do this for the sake of the material gain which may come from sueh advQr tisement.
 If one will consult the list of American women who have become prominent in lit-
 erary circles, club work and the like, I
 think you will find that the vast majority
 of them have always paid due regard to
 the dictates of fashion. Let us cite. for l instance, the many charming women
 whom we meet in club and social life.
 Surely there Is no doubt as to their men
 tai powers, and none as to their exquisite
 taste in personal adornment; and the same rule may be applied to a thousand other
 more or less prominent people we meet in our everyday life.
 It may even be regarded as a woman's
 duty to make herself as attractive as pos
 sible at all times. She makes a poor wife, mother and housekeeper who puts on her , sweetest smile and finest array to receive
 her sweetheart. but greets that sweet
 heart when he has become her husband
 in careless attire.
 No. decidedly, I do not think that frow-
 ziness in either woman or man is a dis
 tinctive mark of brain power. On the contrary. it is more likely to signal cer-
 tain mental weakness, or at least an at
 tribute of slovenliness and negligence. HARRIET T. MACK (Mrs. Norman F.. Mack.)
 Do Not Behttle Dress, Says Mrs. A Horton.
 The question as to whether the influ- ence of the well dressed woman is not greater than that of the trump needs no argument by way of answer. A picture rich in golden tints and beauty of design offers more pleasure to the eye than one
The Montgomery advertiser., 1904-01-24

less brilliant and less perfect fin tecls- nfuue. The beautiful blending of coIorx either in dress or in painting. exhibits the touch of an artist mind. Just as q bird with gorgeous plumage outshines it's sister bird with dull gray feathers. so the well costumed woman with every ar ticle of dress corresponding in color and texture attracts the attention and -admira- tion of all whom she rneeta and thereby exercises far more influence for good than the trump swing little heed 10 the fashions of the day who boasts that she has not changed her style of dress in twenty years.
 It is a question whether the type Of chara acter and the style of dress a8eected by her is not a worse afEectation and a desire to attract attention than the beau tiful costumes of well dressed woman which appeal to the love of beauty and of form inherent in all. s-F
 It is not, on the part of the well dressed woman. go much a. desire to attract ate tention as rft is. by making hetaelf afA tractive. to win the love and sadmira1s0n of those who are dear to her and Co re- tain that love and hold the respect of father, husband and son by showing the care as to every little detail of personal adornment that will encourage the Bride that they must feel in the woman who hoIuS HiSt piaec HI tnSH nSAgtA anu homes. NFse
 Is it, you ask, an evidence of a lack of brains in the we'll dressed woman Co ds- sire to make the best of her good pointAg
 Surely 1t is not, for every woman of well rounded and intellectual character pos. sessing a keen knowledge of human na- ture knows 1t to be a necessity fo be well and suitably costumed when sha ap- pears in public. feeling that hefs dress is finished in every detail gives her coF- fidence and the assurance of well being that makes her lose sight of self, and thus in speaking or appearing before the pubs lie her subject is paramount in i'm portance and success Is assured by this forgetfulness of self A woman in public life as champion of some great causs affecting the happiness and welfare Of her sex needs all the assistance which she can draw from an attractive personaiiey which wins friends to the cause abe es- pouses, and she owes 1t to the work to which she is devoted to mako herself ap- pear at her best.
 In modern life the tendency of phalan- thFopical and intellectual pureuita is per- haps sometimes in the direction of be- Hitting the importance of dress. This is not as it should be. A wonaans influence for good may bo sboundIess by happy combination of strengthIof intellect and warmth of sympathy for every good cause and tasteful and ,beautiful3 attire. 4 wo- manly woman beautifully and artisticRIly gowned. with heart and sbraan awake to human needs and the desire to minister Co them, conquers the world bsfors.h4r and lays-it at her feet. In every, walk. of life this is verified and 30 acknowledged by all students, of human nature.s's ..'
 KATHARINE PRATT HORTON.
 IA
The Montgomery advertiser., 1904-01-24

w'-" adage Judge not a man by his coat is obsolete these days. Rather are a mans worth, intelligence and capaoiil- ty judged by the fineness and cut Of ms clothes and his prosperity by the hall mark of his tailor. The crusade against dress is perennial for lack of some better subject The preacher, the lecturer or the reformer cries out priodically against the indecency, the extravagance. the abuse of dress. and all the sins of the decalogue are cited and laid at the door of clothes.
 And wherefore. one asks. give such prominence to mere clothes? Is there nothing more important in this great, bustling world of ours than this ques- ton of clothes? Seemingly not. Carlyle tells us:-
 For neither in tailoring nor in legislat- inR does man proceed by mere accident, but the hand is ever guided on by mys- terious operations of the mind. In all his modes and .habilatory endeavors an arch iteofural idea will be found lurking: his Body and the cloth are the site and the materials whereon and whereby his beau tiful edihce of a person is to be built. Whether he flow gracefully out in folded mantels, based on high sandals; tower up fin high headgear from amid peaks. span Kles and bell girCIIes; swell out in starched xuffs buckram stufflngs and mOnstrous tuberosities; or goeth himself into sep erste sections and front the world an az glomeration of four limbs-will depend on the nature of such architectural idea; whether Grecian. Gothic, Latin Gothic, or altogether modern and Parisian or Anglo DandIcaI.'
 An architectural idea, according to Car lyse guides out conception of clothes; mind is superior to accident: therefore the statement of the pes6imist that the well dressed woman is the brainless one fails to carry weight for lack of logical sequence. On the contrary, a knowledge of how to dress rather denotes a better developed and keener calibre of gray mat ter
 The fallacious idea that a woman to be brainy must be freak as regards her costume has long ceased to gain credence or find supporters. Let us look around among the groups of successful women, whether social. professional, in business. in club life, in the literary or artistic world, and you will find they are invari ably the we'll dressed women
 The Feminine Apex.
 Ihe woman who stands at the apex to- day is the we'll groomed, well gowncd woman of the twentieth century. So ab- Bolutely essential has this question of dress become that 1t keeps trade brisk, helps to build the large department stores, to employ an army of men and women. and 1t makes the up to date woman. the most eagerly sought after customer in the commercial world.
 sIn speaking thus we have not in mind the over dressed or the frump. but the woman whose intelligence leads her along conservative lines and whose ifuence on the prosperity and financial strength of the country's growth is due to her brains and the knowledge she has of the power she yields by the fact that she com mands respect and consideration by her general appearance of being well to do,
The Montgomery advertiser., 1904-01-24

manufactured either undeveloped or un- known, the marvel is that in so short a time the South did organize as fine sol diers as ever stood behind a gun or charged an enemy and that for four years these incomparable soldiers kept l the Confederacy alive against such fear l full odds.
 Hence I take little stock in the criti- cisms of our generals and our civil lead CTS. That our generals may have made hlunders may be true, that President Da- wis, in some of his acts, may also be d subject of criticism. may also. be true. It would be more than ought to be expected of human nature, for government to be administered under such circumstances, or a war of that duration and magnitude to be fought without errors or blunders. The South was not overcome in conse- quence of these errors or mistakes, but by the sheer power of superior numbers superior equipment and superior ra- sources.
 It is said that soon after the close of the war some one asked Judge John A. Campbell. under what leader would the South have stood the best chance of suc- cess?" After a few seconds of thought Judge Campbell replied, "Jeff Davis" and added if the South could not succeed with him it could not at all. This reported cohNersatlon may or may not pc tFue' pu' whether true or not, I believe It states a correct proposition. However, let moral izing cease, 1t might provoke controversy and controversy on this subject Is unde- sirable and improbable.
 Nearly all who, on that bright October day rode to the Chickamauga battlefield, have passed away. Dr. Heron was among the last to go. He died a few years ago in Eufaula in the 92nd year of his age honored and respected by all who knew him. s. Fl. Dent.
The Montgomery advertiser., 1904-01-24
WOMEN IN JAPAN.
Army Surgeon Says They Are Slaves
 or Servants.

l or Servants.
 | 'If American women like the sensation of being shocked as their continual wan dering in the slums and lecture field would seem to indicate. they should go to Japan" said pr. Leonard s. Hughes. an army surgeon who has just returned from Nagasaki. Japan, where he stopped on his way home from a service of three years with the American forces in the Philip pines. They would be shocked by a. to- tally different and to their minds excess sively loose moral standard. and their liberty-loving suffragist sensibillties would be stunned by a comparison of their status with that of Eastern wOm- en. though the Japanese women are far freer than their other Oriental sisters.
 Women in Japan are merely necessary nulsances-mediocre conveniences at best The men consider them nothing more than slaves. though because of centuries of habit and association their masters don't t know they do. Fathers sell their daugh- ters. and a female Is a slave from girl hood until she becomes a mother-in-law Then she becomes the boss of the estab- lishment.
 "One sees Japanese women everywhere. They are freer than other women in the East. They see no breach of convention ality in talking to a strange man, or even taking tea with him. But one never sees them at home when he visits there with the lord of the manse-that Is, upon a basis of social equality When they are seenit is always in the capacity of a ser want. They serve the tea when ordered by their husbands. and if he introduces his wife. in the case of 6 fellow-coun- 1 tryman, 1t is deadly insult, as likely as not to cause trouble. An introduction of mans wife to his friend, therefore
 never occurs, I was merely eupposing. But if the man introduces you to his mother-in-law or to his father. he has
 done you the greatest honor in his power.
The Montgomery advertiser., 1904-01-24

and therefore independent.
 Do we not all know how much easier 1t | is for a well dressed woman to gain an entry than her shabby sister? The wo- I man who comes to us with gloves out at fingers, with shabby boots. garbed in rus- | ty black. tale of woe ready coined to pour into our sympathetic ears. tears
 ready to course down her thin cheeks. l may work the game once, and we will l put our hands in our pockets and give l her. pittance. If she be seeking em- 1 ployment, a small wage will be offered | her, well knowing she cannot through | stress of necessity refuse it, but the of | flee boy or butler will be instructed to I say Not at home" the next time she l calls.
 On the contrary. the up so date woman | is ever welcome. She comes once: she
 can come again. No man would dare off, , fer a. creature so thoroughly modern a pittance. One so conversant with the l majesty of clothes must of necessity be
 Invaluable. consequently in ratio to her
 costume do we give her request consider ation.
 l The remarks of the reverend gentleman
 so lately spoken before his library class | are applicable to so small a number
 among the women of today that 1t seems
 a pity he should have descended from his pedestal of ministerial dignity to tirade against the few. As long as the world
 lasts there will be men and women who go to extremes. Why. then, condemn the
 class for the few exceptions?
 The prosperous financier. merchant. pro- | fessional man or politician, as a rule, is | the well groomed man. The woman who succeeds in what she undertakes is the
 smartly gowned-not overdressed or frum-
 py-woman. and this rule holds good all | over the world.
 The epitome of dress is the desire to
 please The woman dresses to please some | man. The man is solicitious of his ap-
 pearance to make himself pleasing in the | eyes of some women. And so the world goes around. Century follows century, and the ever recurring question of clothes l is paramount. Turning to 'Sartor Resar- | tus," we find these words of wisdom:- Carlyle's View.
 Men are properly said to be clothed | with authority, clothed with beauty, with | curses and the lke-nay, if you consider 1t, what Is man himself and his whole
 terrestrial life but an emblem, a clothing,
 visible garment for that divine me of
 his. cast hither and thither. like a light
 particle. down from heaven? Thus, he is | said also to be clothed with a body.
 "1t Is written the heavens and earth
 shall fade away like a vesture. which, in-
 deed. they are-the time-vesture of the
 eternal. Whatsoever sensibly exists,
 whatsoever represents spirit to spirit. is properly a clothing, suit of raiment put
 on for season and to be laid aside. Thus, in this one pregnant subject of clothes, rightly understood, is included all
 that men have thought. dreamed. done
 and been. The whole eternal universe and | what 1t holds is but clothing. and the
 essence of all science lies in the philoso- | phy of clothes.'
 society woman-one of that rapidly in-
 creasing army of women who are swelling
 the ranks of trade, one who by her inti-
The Montgomery advertiser., 1904-01-24

Woman suffrage movements are not an American monopoly. A great number of the feminine members of the Japanese nobility and the royal family have assim- Hated Western ideas relative to the status of women. and are making concerted and determined effort to lift women from their present barbaTous condition and put them on par morally. mentally and physically on basis similar to that en- Joyed by American women, pre-eminently, and by the women of Europe. May they succeed" |" .' -