New-York tribune., 1904-10-16
THE DIRECTORY PERIOD.
Empress Josephine Styles IdeaIizea
for Modern PariSians.
Paris Octoher &

Paris. October s.
The keynote OF the compositions OF dress and
OF the symphonies OF color arranged for tho
coming season by the masters Of the Rue de la
Paix. with the tacit approval OF the grandes
DANES OF the Faubourg Saint Germain. is sup
piled by the Directory period. enhanced by
subdued Empress Josephine leit-motif
1t Is the apOtheosis OF clinging effects and
softness OF outline Clothes touch and delineats
the feminine figure. and no longer rest upon
artificial frameworks and superstructures Of
elastic and whalebone From the shoulder TO
below the hips the form is moulded as II y a
glove. while the skirts are ampler. more flowing
and larger az the feet than ever before. Many
Of the skirts measure eight metres. or twenty
six feet. in width. The fa3orite materials are
Lyons silks and velvets, so lightly woven. 50
flexible and pliable that they have the appear
ance Of gossarner fIaments.
1t is. indeed. golden year for Lyons. and ono
for which the silk producers Of France have been
preparing for the last decade. There is also a
prOfusion of fur that surpasses anything yet
recorded. Not only are there to be fur clOaks
and fur dresses but fur is actually introduced IN
the trimmings Of evening dresses. Long ropes
OF fur encircle the bottoms OF the skirts,
often eight nine yards in circumference
These strips OF costly fur such as marten.
sable. breitschwanz or ehinchiIla. touch the
ground and require frequent renewal thereby
assuring the fortune OF the fashionable furriers
The effect Of these narrow bands OF fur. from
beneath which peep forth the wearer's daintily
shOd feet, Is simply bewitching. Fur cIoaks ara
long and ample. They hang in flowing. lux
uriant folds from the back. The shoulders ara
we'll and smartly fitted and to insure precision
Of measurement the fur is cut and piecsd so ss
to conform to the body like satin or silk Nuns
seem 10 be modelled after the huge sable one in
Nine. Vigee-Lebrun's famous portrait OF her
daughter. They are larger than those worn bv
our great -grandmothers. They are made of
sable of breitschwanz. Of chinchilla ana OF
ermine. white and spOtless. without the black
tail tips. Fur peIerines. hanging IN the Mac
Farlan shape. are lined with hOunCes Of lace and
Of white muslin, and the lining overlaps ths
front The fur coats have falling collars. en-
ablinS the wearer To indulge in a loosely tied
lace cravat. These combinations OF rare lace and
costly fur are highly effective. The zibelne
cloaks are terribly expensive-$1S.OOO was paid
for one last week. Those almost prohibItivs
prices have brought into the market cleverIy de-
vised limitations of breitschwanz made OF car
acul. which is cheaper and more durable than
the costly original
The robe de Vile. or street dress. for the com.
ing winter is simpler and less pretentious than
hitherto. The favorite materials are serge or
Scottish cashmeres. and the coIors are In dark
neutral tones. Reds and green's are eSchewed
altogether. reddish copper color is. never
theless. greatly In demand. These dresses are all
tailor made" The corsage is close fitted and
the skirts, of moderate length. are full and fOv-
ing below the hips The revival OF Scottish
cashmere is due to its extreme feasibility. thus
readily adapting itself TO the closely moulded
hips well as to the ample drapery Of the lower
portion of the skirt The wide bottoms OF the
skirts are retained in circular form by REIN
forcements OF twisted bobbin cord (ganse). Tho
coats are very long. with full skirts Cloth
frOcks trimmed with narrow bands OF f,.r
such as otter or black caracuL
One Of the most practical innovations OF tho
coming season is the Directory sleeve. which ia
ample above the elbow, but fitting more closely
around the fore9rmS This viii be welcomed by
all common sense American women. because Il
does away with those terrible bsIloonIike puerv
that now hang like swords Of DamOcIes from ti,,
forearm and have an irrcpressible tenaencv s.,
Overturn tea cups, dip into gravies and to sxsc,