New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1904-06-05

France is often puzzle TO foreigners. The gayest
part Of the year IS supposed TO be the spring
months and yet after Easter people are prone 10
stop their afternoons and hardly expect TO make
receive calls. The season OF formal visiting is
from the first OF the year TO Lent; the Parisenne
makes 1t as short possible, and the spring is
more for intimate dinners. the races. club recep-
tons. dining and taking tea at restaurants. 1t is
the time Of the year when the Frenchwomen OF
the smart world seem always abroad.
AS It has been ideal weather for the races. some
of the smartest costumes have been worn. The
taffeta gowns especially lovely. and there
is a lot of them made after a fashion that has
suddenly jumped into popularity. The skirt is
shirred all about. and is very full. 1t may have
elaborate trimming. but 1t is in newer style IL IT
has trimming save perhaps a thick. narrow
ruche at the hem The bodice is pointed. draped
and shrred In inch-wde band running from
the throat to the bottom. The sleeves are the
three-quarter length gigot in shape. broad at the
shoulders and diminishing nothing at the end.
The folds crushed in by a line Of shrrings
down the outside of the Some bodices OF
this sort are shirred down the back we'll as
down the front.
Satin Directoire coats another interesting
feature of the There really two
amples of this style: the fitted. mannish coat and
the loose coat with the yoke continued to below
the bust. These latter simple wraps over
light gowns while the fitted coats are part OF a
costume. A gown of tussor silk has the full skirt
trimmed with rows OF rutfes arranged in a rather
quaint fashion. On the bottom of the skirt Is
silk hounce headed by a shirred band of ecru
moussene de sole. with an outstanding ruche of the
silk TO head this. Above this two similar
rufIies ending each side of the. front BREADTH
the top ruche curying over the ends 10 make a
finish The Directoire coat of black satin has
close elbow sleeves with wide turn-up cuffs faced
with ecru silk and embroidered in gold and bright
green and the double falling ruche Is Of lace and
!nousseline de sole in the tone of the silk The
revers are faced and embroidered in the same
fashion The hat is of black erin trimmed with
long green plume and falling black lace drapery
in the hack which does not seem quite appropriate
TO the stvle OF the costume, pretty it is.
The ,Iressnakers show pretty models OF
with touch of red The box plcated skirt, pressed
hut not stitched to be the faVorite form for
= short skirt Put there are other models laid in
hog or side pieats, stitched to the knees. A great
Yaany OF tho coats nave inside vests, and the
sleeves are generally the threequarter length end
.ny with a loose cun hanging over the close. deep
cuff of the undernlouse. On what termed
shITtvaist suits a faVortc sleeve is long ggOt
This NAY toe put the shoulder seam with u few
clusters of tuckS. but IL grows broad At and
narroWs gradually to several inches of perfect
e-oseuess at the wrists. \ pretty way of trimming
begin the wrists several rows or embroidery
insertion. and then. the sleeve grows fuller.
place the insertion by OF edS!ng, gathered
sufficiently 10 stand ~ with the fulness Of the
sleeve.
with English embroidery, MAXI attractive and cool
looking toilets. \ u tty trimming on
skirt of this stuff consists OF heading 10 hounces
made OF 1SureS Of the eu5roe-eHy used IN a pat
tern OF silk ruchnSs: The sk Il Is shlrreG At the
top and tire bodice down the middle OF the front
and behind There is llchu collar that carries out
the idea az the skirt trimming.
At wedding that has just occurred there We're
chc~F'ing examples including the brides
gown, of what are called the Louis XVI modes