Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-08-15

boxes of rice and chop sticks. which looked
very tempting, and fruit of different kinds
was continually offered with trays of lit
tie sweet cakes, so that none of US starved
to death, although the night was long and
tireSome.
We were fully compensated for our ia
tgue and discomfort as the dawn began
to break by having a magnificent series of
views of Fujiyama, the sacred mountain of
Japan, which appeared first on one side of
the train and then on the other as the track
twisted around among the mountains and
under a succession of lights, like those
thrown upon ballet dance. Full saw the
sun long before we did. and its shapely
peak, sheathed in snow, cleaned like bur-
nished silver while the villages that SUM-
Der on its bosom were still wrapped in
sleep and mist. 1t was a wonderful Specta-
Gle 1t is worth long journey anywhere
and at any time to see the sun rise upon
snow-clad mountain-and there is no more
beautiful mountain than Fujiyama-so ma
jestic. so stately and symmetrical. We
watched the rays of the sun creep silently
down the surface of the cone, bathing it
first in purple light, then in a reddish.
and in an orange glow. until at last. quite
suddenly, the FURNISHED sun, the symbol of
Japan, appeared over the corner of ridge
of pines and Fujiyama stood out against a
c1oudless sky as If 1t had been carved from
marble.
Morning Additions.
About 8 o'clock there was a curious spec
tacle. AS the train slowed down at a par
ticular station noticed that all the natives
in the car began to overhaul their kits and
take out towels and soap, tooth brushes
hair brushes. combs and other toilet ar
ticles, and some Of them produced clean
kimonas. The moment the train stopped
they made break, not only from our car,
but from every other, for the large foun-
tain and rows of faucets over a trough
which ran along the fence that incloses the
platform. a rubbing h.
ing you never saw.
The Japanese. as you have often been
told, are children of nature. Their rules Of
conduct, particularly as to bathing and the
exposure of the person, are much broader
than ours. You can see more bare skin.
masculine and feminine. In Japan in a min
ute than you can see in Chicago in month,
and Chicago Is not noted for its modesty,
either, 1t Is simply matter of education.
and the people of japan are gradually con-
forming to the conventional ideas of pro-
priety. There has been great change in
that respect since 1 was here nine years
ago. Then it was a common thing for men
and women Of all ages to battle together in
the open air. stark naked, without the
slightest suspicion of shame or improperly.
They had always done so until the Euro
peans came and told them that such free
dom was immodest and improper. Nova
days at the hot springs the pools are di-
vided by partition. The women battle on
one side and the men on the other as a
concession to European etiquette. and bath
ing suits are worn at seaside resorts by or
der of the police authorities.
They tell of one fine old gentleman down
at Kamakura, who during his entire life
has been in the habit of taking a surf bath
every morning in 1.-The altogether" and he
always walked back and forth from his
house to the beach, quite a distance, wear
ing nothing but pair of sandals. When
the police issued an order that everybody
must wear kimonas while bathing, the old
gentlemen, being a loyal and law-abiding
oil 10 nauy lat Ion ",
faith and proceeded to obey 1t literally. AS
he left his house in the morning for his
bath, wearing nothing but his sandals as
usual, he carried a kimona over his arm.
When he reached the beach he put 1t on
and wore 1t as long as he remained in the
water. At the end of his bath he took it
of, wrung 1t dry. threw 1t over his arm and
walked solemnly back to his house again.
He went through that performance several
mornings, until the chief Of police advised
him that the garment should be worn on
his way to the beach as well as in the
water.
Struck by Tidal Wave.
Some years ago a great tidal wave of re-
form struck of city of Kobe. where for
centuries it had been the custom for the
lower classes to battle together at the end
of their daily labors in a great cement pool
that is fed from a group of hot springs in
the neighborhood. There is roof over the
pool. supported by columns-something like
paviliion-and benches covered with red
blankets are placed around under the trees
outside where the bathers of both sexes re-
move and leave their clothing and sit and
gossip and drink tea after they come from
the water Long rows of cotton towels
contributed to the public comfort by the
tradesmen of the place. are suspended from
clothes lines each bearing an Illuminated
advertisement of artistic design. This is a
common custom. You will see lines Of
towels bearing advertisements at all Of the