The watchman and southron. [volume] (Sumter, S.C.) 1881-1930, 1904-04-27
sc3t IS IN TIE SCARED CaF;TAl
O. EAc1ERV Ja2AN.

| for the real orient and knowing Japan
only through her art products and the
few pen pictures Of the artist rhapso-
dists who have embarrassed her with
their praises Tokyo is q rare purgative.
Except for the stately and dignihed
tombs Of the shoguns and the fine OFF,
! cial grounds and buildings Of the capi-
| tai he finds his senses assailed on every
side by unpleasant sights, odors and
sounds.
approaching Tokyo by train from Yo-
| kohama, he sees the green hillsides pla-
| carded with enormous advertisements.
Arrived in the city, he finds the poster
| and billboard everywhere monstrous
| and fagrant Stagnant sewers lie along
the roadside. and foul odors arise from
the payements. constantly wet down
by the householders. Porters and store
keepers with a rag Of breechclout or
a scant skirt jostle, shout and stare,
and perhaps whole family may be
seen in a doorway ready for the tub.
from which you see the steam arising.
q street called the Ginga is the state
! street Of Tokyo, and here in the even
ing you may find an infnity Of wares
spread out upon the walk, which is one
of the few real sidewalks in Japan.
Most Of these wares, however, are a
vast inconsequential array Of cheap
triaes, such as the enterprising mana
ger OF an American five cent store"
| might gather together. There are, how
ever, number of somewhat preten-
tious stores to be seen by the persist
ent shopper.
Shopping in Tokyo, however, is at
tended by many inconvenience. To be-
gin with, your rickshaw man knows no
English and nothing about the stores,
and the names and numbers of streets
are known enly to the map makers.
Where street has name it is likely
to belong only to the shady side and to
run around the block instead Of .contin-
uing from the next corner. Ii, how
ever, you succeed in finding store
your troubles have just begun. The
proprietor sits at the rear Of the estab-
lishment, cross legged, before small
desk. By virtue of being in his own
store he has reached the summit Of
earthly desire aud cares nothing about
you. Perhaps If you wait some small
clerk Of 4 dozen years or less will come
to wait upon you and, seeing you are
foreigner. will charge you extra for
the few words Of English he can mas
ter.
If you are bold enough to leave your
rickshaw and wander about on foot you
will soon attract curious crowd, the
clatter Of whose wooden geta upon the
flags will we'll nigh deafen you. It is
good natured, well meaning crowd,
however, and will soon be scattered by
a policeman. If there are any clerks
goirg your way they will address you
in the hope of learning 4 few words Of
English or inviting you to their stores.
There is no hostility or insult. only Gu
rios:ty ard good natured. childish
amusement.
Nfodesty is an unknown quantity in
japan, as one soon learns. If your rick
shaw mans two garments become damp
he is likely to change them before you.
and fellow travellers in the cars are
sure to change their clothes without
Difference 10 place or surroundings.
Men and women use the same tank at
the same time in the public baths with
ont thought Of improperly.
The streets of aJapanesc city are full
of interesting sights and seem never
twice the same. Every store and every
passer by is q novelty that chains the
attention for moment. In land
where nearly all wares are hand made
every article has some Individuality.
and one is led on with the hope Of find
ing something better than the rest.
Heavy loads are carried through the
streets on he backs Of men and won~
en-. on horses aud on two wheeled carts.
The carts are drawn by bulls or shas-
sy northern stations anu are guided by
the driver. ~ ho walks with the pole.
The bur,!eas carried by women and
children are remarkable. All over Ja-
pan the he;. West work is done By wom-
en-. the br:c!S and masonry for the new
museum and government buildings be-
ing 50 transported in the heat Of mid
summer. Children carry their brothers
and sisters strapped to their backs and
Ii. IL great lads on heavy carts. The
life Of the l;iAoi'inS classes seems very
| arduous. and they are remarkably pa
tient and industrious. Throughout city
and country every one seems to be hard
at work.
The death rate Of Tokyo is very high.
The custom Of carrying very young
children strapped On the back with
their heads unprotected from the sun
leads to thousands OF cases Of brain fe-
yer and blindness. 4 majority Of the
children bear the marks Of skin dis
eases. and their heads are often nau-
seating to behold The water used IN
the city is suspicious. and travellers
drink spring water or tea. The general
practice Of Rubbing certain wooden i'm
ages on The temples to secure freedom