davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-08-28

cause the accordion pleating is 30 full and vide that it gives almost too shape less m appearance. while with the lin- Ing and gown sewed together at the side seams more semblance of line may be obtained.
 The sole negligee or interior getup ot any pretension which does not fall in a graceful train is that composed of a Jacket and petticoat Such toilet being now recognized as seemly. and even smart for the breakfast table or Informal callers. the petticoats designed for them are bewlderingly charming Fitting snuRlv at the ton they spread below the knee into bouffant founces held out by others underneath Fes- toons of lace ribbon. velvet or chiffon garnitures of some sort give still fur ther elahorateness. The short Jacket worn with such tupon matches in ele- gance Maize ribbon and French lace in alternate stripes shaped one dainty loose jacket worn with a pettlcoat of maize brocade. Printed delaine In pale blues and plnks is the texture of an- other jacket which is in form something like belted kimono. A variation from sameness in this is made by puffed under sleeves of white lace. which add a dressy stamp to the conventional model. Since this department of dress admits of indulgence in individual fan cies, some of the deep collars and sleeve effects take on an old-time quaintness. More capes and collars. the circular falls of lace which cover the shoulders of many house toilets. suggest lavish expenditure of money. But these gar nshings which often button at the back. child-bib fashion. are frequently only of imitation entelle. which Is daily growing more beautiful and less ex- pensive. Anywhere that 1t can be used with correctness lace Is employed. though many an exquisite getup is en- tirely without A touch of it. Velvet bebe ribbons likewise come into the
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-08-28
The Middy Skirt For the Seashore.

and knotted under the chin. To make the fashion harmonious the necks of summer gowns are cut down to where the throat curves into the shoulders, Just at its base. The coolness of the style appeals at once to woman and the combination of smartness and com fort are quite enough to make the fashion go.
 popular ring at our leading jewell iers Is made to represent the two ends or circlet passing each other and each nhlshed with a stone of different kind. The hoop Is set with diamonds or any small gems so that they entirely cover the part of the ring visible on the out Side of the finger. A large diamond and a sapphire of equal size make u charm Ing display, or ruby and diamond are equally beautiful. It is pretty change from the old-time setting of two stones dlagonally, for while the effect Is prac- ticaily the same. the two bands or smaller stones relieve the plainness.
 Too little attention is bestowed on the hair. Now Is @ time 1t should be given daily sunbalh and stimulants should be applied when needed. Lots of women wno know the value of sun shine on the halr think that ii they go bareheaded during the daytime they are doing all that Is necessary to lnl- prove the growth of their locks. This IS by no means enough. for when the hair Is done up on the head the sun reaches only certain pots. What 1t realiy needs Is to be let down and then nteeu. strand by strand. while the sun nght and air play on It as long as one can stand it. An hour is not too much if the sun Is not so intense that it will give one u headache. It Is good for the hair to let it down. Keeping 1t done up in one particular style month in and month out makes tue hair thin and fault. In the summer the head becomes overloaded and a rash sometimes ap- pears. This may not De noticed unless one is careful to watc.. the condition of the head. The rash may or may not result In something serious, but In any case 1t Is well to do what one can to keep the head cool and the hair fresh.
 While on this subject l want to re- mark about the eagerness with which the younger generation deliberately set about getting their hair sunburned. It has become a mania with some of them. since the college girls came home and displayed luxuriant crops of sunburned tresses. It takes hours of exposure daily in the hot sun to get a tint which Is faded light brown. The hair soon shows several shades. but that doesn't seem to make the least bit of difference to the up-to-date young woman Half the time her hair looks lighter than her skin. for while the sun browns and tans the face and arms. 1t makes the hair lighter. There are some shades of hair that take to the sunburning process bet- ter than others. These are the natural iy light brown shades with a glint of gold. The gold. be 1t regretfully said. does not stay long after continuous ex- posture to the sun
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-08-28

Felt hats for early fail have appeared In the stores. although the days are still swelterng. Two styles of hats have appeared. some rather foreign or mannlsh looking. with round crowns. like overturned bowls, and rounded brims, others flat. broad sailors. The first have the brim bound in leather. In some cases. and a leather belt around the crown. One such was bound In while and also had white feather pom pon. The hat itself was deep tan. Another prettier one had crown or seal brown and d brlm of tan. The brim was well rolled and in front 1t was bent so as to make a continental hat of it. Folds of brown and orange velvet encircled the brim, and the pompon was of orange feathers. Both of the flat hats were white. One of them was trimmed with folds and loops of shades of dull blue and a white feather. An other had folds of white and striped blue ribbon around the brim. The feather in front was white, touched with black. This style was repeated in black
 The showing of trimmings for fall ln- cludes big display of narrow bandings running all the way from three -eighths to three-quarters of an inch in width. These are mostly in silk and in the gayest combinations. Pompadour effects
 
 show touch of gold in their makeup; indeed, gold is regarded very highly for fall It will, however. in all probability not he applied in the same manner as 1t was year ago. It will be a touch here and there. forming very attractive relief from the silk. In the same man. ner velvet is employed. making its ap- pearance in little tucks and applications on even the narrowest of these bands.
 Military effects in coque feathers and hacxle continue to be in demand. and the owls head appears with breast or wings attached. These make stylish trimming for the small turbans to wear with the tailored suits for early fall. The fashion Idea. both here and in Paris, Is to wear much more elaborate hat with the tailored suit than hereto fore. In fact. hat of the picture order is no longer considered out of place with a plain tailored suit. This is a sugges- ton that has been made for the Tall style.
 As for the new colors. the new green will be more on the myrtle than the emerald shades. though the latter will stlll retain favor to some extent. Cocks comb red is one of the new names for tho vivid shades of burnt orange In fact. there Is an unusually long list or names to choose from when the new yellows and burnt oranges arc under discussion. Nasturtium. or capucine. which Is the French name for that flower. is the name applied to the new yellows and oranges by some milliners. Others still call them leather coiors; and yet. again. they are called copper shades. Of course. there might De some slight difference In the shades of yellow. but in the main they are our old friends, the burnt oranges. which almost 1nva- riably come to us at the beginning of W ii Is n a whispered fact that high color ing will be one of the keynotea of strIA
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-08-28

that 1t falls in pointed effect front and back and at the sleeves, making four points In all. One of the daintiest ones shown is made of soft white silk vole and is lined with baby blue china silk
 the color of which shows through the volle. It is finished with deep bands of the silk. Another pretty idea is the shawl neglige. This useful little wrap Is made of white or colored embroidered silk shawls. fitted on the shoulders and under the arms for the sleeves. On one side the fringe is turned back for the depth of five inches. so that 1t forms a deep collar in the back and a band down each side of the front. The fringe on the other side hangs around the bottom. The Japanese silk shawls are especially desirable for this purpose. very pret- ty neglige wrap for an invalid or one who is convalescent is a garment called the Marguerite. A practical one is of robins egg blue French flannel It was made of a yard and three-quarters length of the flannel and lined with white India silk. The length was slit in the middle of the back to the depth of six inches to form q collar. White lace was cascaded about this and fell daintity down the front. The points of the lower corners of each end were
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-08-28

The Frenchwoman devotes as much time to her house dresses as to her street gowns. She Is visible" only to special friends until luncheon. This Is taken bout midday. Up to that time Madame and Mademoiselle fit about in garments fashioned most daintily. There are frills, furbelows, 1ouncings. ruches ana lnoe- scribable little touches Such clothes do not endure. But, then, one does not expect much of the fine. thin materials or feathery laces, and that is about all that composes the ordinary robe din terieur. A substantial creation 1t cer- iainly is not While robes dinterieur are always pretty and feminine. they are never anything besides. The charac- ter of the women who wear them seems reproduced-bright. gay. insincere and with poor wearing qualities. If there Is the slightest strain on the robes they show 1t. for not only are the colors airy and delicate, but the stitches that hold the fabrics together appear to be in- tended for few occasions. However. these fllmy house toilets are not unlike other articles of dress made in France. for the dressmakers there scorn putting substantial work in a frock. With them each creation must represent a picture. and if the effect is good their aim Is accomplished.
 Tea gowns and matinees of all descrtp- tions appear every season with the new fashions. and. strange to say, every
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-08-28
THE ROLL BRIM SAILOR.
For the Early Autumn Days.

being carried out In the material of the hat and its several trimminge. Never has there been a season when all the millinery materials could be made so well to serve the ends of fashion in carrying out any particular style Idea than is to be noted today In this ex- ploitation of the combination of several shades of one color. The increasing tendency toward the development of this shaded combination will result In woman having more hats If she Is to be distinctly in the fashion than has been the case in some seasons. for the colored hat must correspond with the suit or costume with which 1t Is worn.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-08-28

secson brings a new and increased de- mand It is now considered so extremely unfashionable to wear street gown In the house that these soft tea gowns and matinees are positive necessities. For many long year the doctrine has been preached to the effect that where econ omy in dress has to be considered there must always be suitable gowns for the street and for the house. but economy failed to create the desire which the fact that fashion has ordered it has produced. The newest of the Swiss eiderdowns is considered smart for house gowns of every description. Contrary to the clumsy weave we are apt to as- sociate with the above-named fabric. the new Swiss eiderdown assumes a fineness and softness which make 1t entirely different. 1t can best be com pared to the texture of chiffon. although the heecy surface conveys a suggestion of warmth and comfort which chiffon does not afford. The accordion-pleated yelling and crepe de chine gowns are all considered smart and are made in every color. White for the moment Is the most fashionable. but the pale pinSs and blues, mauves and grays of the palest silvery shade, make up charm ingly. Deep collars. the ends in front reaching to the waist and trimmed
 with bands of lace entre deux are part of every gown, and the collar IS accor- dion pleated also. A thin silk lining is necessary both for warmth and be-
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-08-28

Following as closely as possible the style of regulation jack-tar uniforms, the girls at the seashore are having their white duck and linen skirts Hiaue tight over the hips and the habit back laced to a point about six inches below the belt, with white tape or colored ribbons If the wearer possesses a good figure of slender build the effect is really very smart. and the facing relieves the plain look that Is not all ways pretty in washable skirts. Sailor blouses with the shield omitted and the rolling collar turned back to show n sunburned throat is not only the acme of comfort. but the smartest
 thing a young girl can choose. The blouses are exact copies of the Peter
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-08-28

thompson suits that boys wear. and 1T .ne shield is desired 1t Is made collar iess and embroidered with a nautical oeslsn or monogram. It Is long time since the sailor blouse, pure and simple. has been popular, and for girl ish figures there Is really nothing pret- tier and trimmer It must be remem- bered, though, that everything depends upon the lines and curves of the wearer
 Instead of losing favor. long fiutter- ing hat strings have been gaining steadily. Now almost every we'll dressed woman you see in truly summer costume wears a hat that has for its principle trimming long scarf of chir- ion. which Is brought around loosely
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-08-28

in the new millinery. These will be mainly exploited in the new trimmings.
 particularly in the new ostrich plumes and tips, In the coz and brackle feath- CTS. in the large roses which are to be the flowers par excellence of the winter season. and in the new velvets. This employment of high colors means the increasing vogue of the one-color scheme. or the shaded effect. being the combination of several shades of the one color in the new millinery, rather than the combination of several oppo- site colors. Thus the all red. blue. green or brown hat will show tfa use of from
 three to five shades of one color. these
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-08-28
A Recent Parisian
 Felt Hat Novelty.
NOVEL SHAPE IN WHITE WITH
 TOUCH OF BLACK.

NOVEL SHAPE IN WHITE WITH
 TOUCH OF BLACK.
 The new white felt shapes will be worn by all ages. from the baby to the grand mother, and they are sure to prove equally becoming to all. The white hat certainly does add much to the youth fulness of the appearance, and even the owners of white locks nowadays prefer to look as youthful as possible. The shape shows the new short back that ciings close 10 the head. while the front turns upward in a becoming flare. The edge Is bound with black velvet stitched In heavy whitesllk and the trimming Is simply scarf of flexible white felt braided in a tressed white. black and gold braid. The little touch of gold, un- obtrusive. but indispensable. maintains all of it's cachet in the new autumn showings.
 THE sIDEWISE TRIMMING.
 Another presentation of the roll brim sailor is seen In this illustration. Here the crown Is higher. narrows almost im- perceptibly al the top. and the bandeau fits in at the back and side. giving a smart tilt to the shape. The shape Is in pearly white felt. with an edge and trimming band of white suede. all of the feathers being especially good style for the fall hats. although they are usually combined with velvet to tone down the effect somewhat Here black paon velvet straps start from each side of the crown and are tucked in beneath the bandeau. seeming to hold the roll of the brlm in position. At the left side a long black quill is thrust. the rounded point coming to the front and the quill end piercing the brm in the back.
 AN ELABORATE TRIMMING ~
 pale shade of turquoise blue ts se- lected for this dainty comfortabie breakfast gown. the applioues of near, white chinon cloth showing up with ex- quisite enect against the faintly tinted background The design Is a lotus lily and foliage, and these are naddsd Tn bring the flowers and leaves into b;vn relief. The connecting parts of the ds- sign are fiat and couched with ,,,,,ta and gold cord. thicker varietv or tna same edging the stole collar ana ,onr ends that give such graceful aign,tv to the gown. The back is the new nrsn.h pattern, where the fitness is ...,ss., with A full bias line in the nsnps psu'iueI the underarm portion being w,Sa,,e d,er, S aiio the cut-out shape being thus somswhaf fanlike. LnG 1tn9. .s coI,sr are plain. the over inc deelrn. The sleeve is f,si, .ln ,nisnins lss tight and plain at the top and srsrS widaly.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-08-28
Some Recent
 Fall Offerings.

When the summer suns and winds have worked their accustomed havoc with the dainty creations of flowers and chiffon and straw the fashionable folk do not replace them with others of their kind. but select. instead the latest nov cities on white felt to usher in the au- tumn days. The hats illustrated on this page show some of the recent offerings in this line.
 CHARMING ROBE DE CHAMBRE.
 In the newest of the Swiss eiderdowns the material has taken to itself new fineness and softness which makes 1t totally different from the thick and somewhat clumsy weave we used to know under that name. The overworked adjective chiffon might well be used to describe the new style, although the fieecy surface conveys an idea of warmth and comfort which chiffon does not afford. The comfortable bedroom gown pictured Is in pale pink Swiss cider, bound all around with a fainter shade of pink satin ribbon, and the bind ing edged with a novelty catstitch braid in which black. white and gold are in- terwoven. The back Is semif1tted. and the fronts loose. the handsome cord girdle confining the soft folds to the figure. The sleeve is loose and plain.
  the hand. The neck is cut out slightly. and two cnpelike epaulettes over the shoulder, each edged with narrow ruching of ribbon. bring the garment up to the present style requirements.
 SMART HOUSE JACKET.
 The vogue of those smart and com fortable little garments increases daily. and their adaptabillty is not the least ot (tt,f ard xxyff h sleeves large enough for comfort, they may be slipped on over the shirtwaist or house gown; and instances have not been lacking where they have made smart summer evening wraps. the more delicate tints and elaborate trimmings being selected for this purpose. A very good mode Is that pictured in which the back Is plain and full, cut with a blas fold in the center so that there Is graceful outward flare to the design. ing Is effected down the lelt side with gold cords and barrel buttons. The pa- goda sleeve. the neck and side fastening are all bound with pink satin. and the applique In white chiffon cloth is sewn on with pink silk.
 THE ROLL BRIM SAILOR.
 White scratch felt furnishes this popu- lar and becoming shape which has a shallow black-velvet-covered bandeau to bound in the tailor style with white gros-grain ribbon, and the trimming combines the brilliant burnt-orange vel vet with a band of soft white suede, this white silk crochet buttons introduced In the pattern. At the left side the velvet is punched into loops to form a rosette. and a pair of white wings shading into tucked jauntily Into the heart of tho rosette.
Der Deutsche correspondent. [volume] (Baltimore, Md.) 1848-1918, 1904-12-30
Die observation-disclosures.
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Der Deutsche correspondent. [volume] (Baltimore, Md.) 1848-1918, 1904-12-30

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