davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Savannah morning news., 1904-09-25

cut in the sleeve. which is folded up
and gathered to form them. Long
sued gloves cover the lower arm,
and such curtailed sleeves may go
with blouse bodices of a jacket-like
description.
stylish FrocIss in Rick COIors.
Some stylish girl frocks being
WurneH out display new and novel
wool weaves and rich solor effects
Checks, small plaids and notified and
shot patterns show handsome browns.
tingeing on red. and many degrees of
shading, till color which starts deep
ly often fades almost into white.
Shaded effects are much in vogue, but
they are made rather by putting sew
eral tones in a material together than
by dyeing. But feathers, wings and
quilts are shaded in the dyeing, and
rad OF the moment is to have the
stem Of ostrich feathers in a color
contrasting with the curling fringe
Velvet, gilt, braid, embroidery and
gimp deck the dressy gowns of girls
as young as Is, and whenever the fig
ure is sufficiently developed the high
est girdles are in order. The former
loose and blousy style of bodice is
now only seen with delicate materials.
with such waists as accompany dance
and dinner and party frocks. The
bodices of the new street frocks are in
q great measure adjusted to the figure,
which makes a corset an absolute ne
eessity and permits of elaborate girdle
treatments.
Gown of 'StippIed" Black and Blue.
A gown of 'stippled" black and blue
velvet displays a blouse closely adjust
ed at the back and falling with an
Elton drop al the fronts. band of
white cloth at the bottom OF the full
skirt is braided with blue and black
the plain cloth forming revers for the
blouse. The high crush girdle is also
OF the cloth, as well as the two double
frillE AZ the bottom Of the pun sleeves
With this gown Is worn a large tur-
ban OF blue felt. trimmed with "A black
velvet quilting and gray spotted quill
The model is suited 70 girls Of from Is
20 -. but. Of course. the elegance Of
such toilette necessitstes u being kept
for extra occasions.
shown with this costume 10 a Nee
ond fine gown OF novelty wool ln shad-
"a brown. suitable 10 The same ages. A
plain apron ana pleateG side breadths
distinguish the skirt ~ this. and the
pleated bodice Stimulates. through a
bias banc, q square yoke Another
band puf upon fhe skirt effects a hlp-
yoke look. ana the wide Rirdia faatous
with a square bronze buckle Brown
velvet is used for ibis fiFdle. fhe blua
bands ana doubled frlls AZ fho edge
~ fhe pun sleeves
hfona 100 Huf - tisFiDR fhsps,
1he accompanying bee o. asnnr
The Savannah morning news., 1904-09-25
Blouse Effects in Heavy Weights
Snus-Fitting Shirt Waists and Louis Patterned
BIouses Employ the Heaviest Materials
Ever Seen in Separate Waists.
BY KATHERINE ANDERSON.

The revers are short and circular, ana
are lined with white silk. The sleeves
are not very full, and are gathered
into a narrow cuff, finished with
flounces of repousse lace. Vest and
stock are of tucked chiffon over silk.
and the circle is of amethyst silk
Four large rhinestone buttons set off
the lower part of the blouse on either
side. Such a waist may be worn with
a silk or~cloth skirt in the same color.
A Fancy Velvet Worth Seeing.
Fancy velvets are always regarded
with more or less suspicion by the eco
nomical woman. but there is a black
weave this year which is worth seeing
1t shows the exquisite markings OF
broadtail cleverly repeated in the soft
est of velvet pile. A blouse in this
velvet shown at a modish shop is cut
as simply as possible, with only the
shoulder and under-arm seams; hence.
it must be perfectly fitted to the fig
ure. Small, pointed revers appear just
below the shoulder, and the vest is
evolved from deep flouncing of Oriental
lace. From the collar to point below
the bust line the lace is laid in tiny
pleats and held by daintiest of fancy
stitches done in silk thread. but from
this point it tufts out like jabot. A
moderately full shirtwaist sleeve is fin
ished with narrow cuff and f1ounce
of lace to match that in the vest. The
stock is a plain band of the velvet.
Shepherds Checks.
Next to velvet one of the most pop
uar fabrics is lightweight wool or
silk and wool showing shepherds
checks in fine designs. These appear In
black and white, and white with all the
popular colorings, blue. brown, red and
green. AS a rule. they are made Sc
verely and trimmed with silk or mo-
hair braid in the dark tone employed
in the check, or with buttons to match
They will be worn with cloth two-piece
suits in the dark color shown in the
check-brown and white with brown
suits, blue and white with navy blue,
and so on.
A pleasing model evolved from this
fine check in brown and white shows
shallow yoke in the back, while the
fronts are each laid in three rather
deep pleats, heavily stitched in place
The closing is effected by means of
tiny hooks and eyes which are hidden
by two rows of fine brown silk braid
The shape of the front pieces is further
emphasized by two rows of inch-wide
silk braid which start at the shoulder
seam and run to graduated depths
down the front and end in a scroll de-
sign. The girdle is of brown silk,
shirred to points in the back and the
front.
A Heavy POngee.
A heavy pongee is shown in all the
colorings to combine with cloths in
tended for tailored suits. These work
The Savannah morning news., 1904-09-25
Floral Decorations
Are Now Decided

The fashionable floral season is now
back TO the cities and preparing for
the campaign of 1904-1905. The for
lists frankly admit that they have no
new flowers to offer the faddist and
novelty seekers. So long as King Ed
ward reigns the gardenia will prob
ably hold its place as the first flower
of society. He wears them exclusive
ly. They cost from fifteen to twenty
dollars a dozen, and used almost
solely for butonnieres by men who
desire a blossom in their coats.
Thanks to the prevalent rage for
burnt orange, the somewhat old-fash-
Toned flower, tritonia, is being used
for decorative purposes. 1t looks like
a cylinder, four or five inches long,
and it is made up of innumerable
waxen blossoms, the exact coz de
roche shade with women are wear
ing in their hats. Wall flowers in the
various shades of orange are also used
for the purpose. Plumosus, asparagus
fern, which is very fine and feathery,
is the favorite greenery of the hour
to combine with these stiff, orange
colored flowers
In the matter of table decorations
all florists agree that the low plateau
will reign for the centerpiece. This
is for practical reason: guests like
to talk across table, and they can
not do so if screened by a towering
mass of flowers. When a plateau is
ordered for dinner the hostess sends
the exact size desired. This is because
the new tablecloths are made almost
entirely of lace, save a small circle
of linen in the center. This linen is
to be completely covered with the
flowers.
Some women select a flower and
use it invariably at their dinners, so
that it becomes identified with their
entertaining. Mrs. Astor, the leader
of New York's AGO. uses nothing but
American beauties. Mrs. Clarence
Mackay prefers orchids. preferably
white of the palest tints. Young Mrs.
the largest and richest yellow roses.
Mrs. Jack Gardner of Boston is an
other devotee of the orchid.
For large and informal functions,
such as receptions, American beauty
roses furnish the stateliest decorations.
They are grown to the hight of six
feet by cutting off all the branches
and blossoms of the plant save one,
and sell for forty or fifty dollars a
the season. White orchids and lilies
of the valley will be the favorite COM
bination for weddings. and there is
every prospect that violets will be
more popular than ever this year.
Fashionable women are already plac-
orders for a daily bunch of these
fragrant flowers which will be tied
with violet-colored velvet ribbon.
For coaching parties the gardenia
is the favorite flower. For dinners,
at the conclusion of an automobile
run, the centerpiece is generally a
low car made of wicker and filed to
overfiowing with flowers.
The Savannah morning news., 1904-09-25

seems to attract the feminine eye,
perhaps with a view to contrast. and
one OF these dogs cannot be bought
for less than thirty-five dollars.
Women who really wish to keep a
fox terrier for any length OF time buy
the female dog. The male fox ter
rier is the most tickle of pets, and the
young dog or pup will follow the last
pair OF heels on which his eyes happen
to rest.
White Pomeranians may best be de-
crlbed as pocket editions Of the once
popular sptz dog. They have Ions
white hair all over the body, but the
lower part 81 the legs and the face are
close clipped ana pink, They weigh
about i've pounds, and have something
Of q reputation for a anappish diHp0-
aiti0n. They are troublesome dog 10
Keep clean bat they are extremely 81
feetiNc against tho velvet dress which
wiil Dr. much used FOR carrinGc wear
fhia year. fomoraulann are iuai now
popular ln England consequently They
Nlll Pee taken ap hy Che Anglomanlaca
The Savannah morning news., 1904-09-25

with such STYLES. The turnover coll
lars and cuffs may be of contrasting
material and If the costume is of vel
vet these details may be of embroidery
or silk or plain cloth. To conclude,
such toilettes as are here described
are designed for the promenade, the
matinee, visiting, etc, for the church
frock-as it should be--is almost the
plainest gown in missy's wardrobe.
For the informal dances and dinners
allowed the young girl many dainty
and inexpensive materials are used,
with laces in simple patterns and vel
vet and silk ribbons. But more of
these festive frocks are seen in pure
white than in color, and the tendency
is to combine the soft silks used for
many with odd pleasant looking laees.
which are in reality admirable imita-
lions.
What is called Mexican lace is used
in insertion form upon a dinner gown
of white Chinese silk. This is in n
model suited to girls from II years
up, as nothing could be simpler than
the blouse form of the bodice and full
skirt Into the bottom of this. which
is pulled oddly to the trimming, is
inserted a single deep band of the lace
above a lve-inch hem. The bodice
buttons at the back. the material being
pulled in the same way as in the skirt
TO the encrcling bands of lace. The
sleeves are elbow length and finish
with double puM OF the silk. which
in bias form girdles the waist and ties
in piquant up-and-down bow behind.
Coats for Practical Wear.
Though less interesting by far than
these handsome costumes. girls suits
and coats for practical wear are
calculated 10 have more popu-
lar vogue. In character they differ
from recent styles only IN point Of de-
tail. for one encounters the same sub
stantial and modest textures, and very
nearly the same cuts as a year ago.
Plain and checked wool stuffs are
much 10 the fore, these creating coat
The Savannah morning news., 1904-09-25
Gorgeous Trimmings
for Winter Gowns
The New Bands and Passementeries
Are a Riot of Color.

If there is one dry goods counter at
which the woman shopper will have to
exercise self-control and a firm hold on
her purse strings, it is in the trim
mings department.
The trimmings for fall and winter
are fairly kaleidoscope in their color
ings and combinations. A little of
them will go a long way in redeeming
a plain and somewhat austere fabric,
but that little must be chosen with
care.
In all landings, galloons and motifs,
shaded effects prevail, with a marked
leaning toward a dash of gold thread
or of bullion embroidery. For smooth
cloths in onion, putty and other neu-
trail tints, come Persian bands, both
regular and irregular, in wondrously
soft Old World colorings. For instance,
on a background of putty color rises
a medallion of faded and delicate rose,
green and yellow, with the colors so
marvelously blended that they seem to
fade into one another and the back
ground as well. The design is distinct
ly conventional, showing the simplest
of Greek lines in it's oblong, buckle-like
form.
Still another pattern in galloon is
built from small over-shaped medal
lions, with faded green, blue, rose and
yellow in its color scheme, so wrought
as to simulate soft, shaded braiding.
Disks appear in single lines, in dou-
BILE, triple and even quadruple bands
sometimes set close together and
sometimes scattered on a net founda-
ton. They particularly lend them
selves to shaded effects. AS an illus
tration of their use, a broad band of
dull green silk net is literally pow
dered with green disks, showing not
less than six shadings, each of which
tones perfectly with the green founda-
ton. The disks are the size of cop
per cent and heavily worked in silk, so
that they stand out almost with the
effect of chenille dot. The same
shadings are shown in the various
browns and reds.
Nearly every nation contributes
either a touch of it's peculiar coloring
or its conventional designs to the gall
looms of the season. The wall of Troy
or popular Greek border is much seen
both in bullion and silk braids. Gold
on pale tints of braids is also seen, es-
pecially on the peculiar peach tint
which will be popular for evening
wear this year. Gold on a turquoise
blue ground is likewise i'm demand
The collarless eton and long coats
of both rough and plain cloth are
edged around the sleeves. front and
neck with elaborate trimmings. and
The Savannah morning news., 1904-09-25

this fact is responsible for some
striking braids, plain on one edge and
irregular on the other. The plain edge
finishes of the coat. and the fancy side
is appliqued upon the cloth.
For dark blue cloth a stunning
trimming shows a foundation or red
broadcloth. braided lightly with fine
spaces are filed in with disks of vari-
Gus sizes done in gold embroidery
The buttons to be used with this trim
ming are enameled, showing the ma
pie leaf of Canada and repeating the
colors in the trimming.
Porcelain blue is evidently one oil
the popular shades for the house gowns
this winter, and exquisite embroidered
passementeries and motifs are shown
in shaded ceamic and porcelain blues
Another fetching trimming to be
combined with a cloth house gown OF
this color shows a wall of Troy about
four inches deep, done in guipure gal
loon and appliqued with big lotus
flower in porcelain blue linen with
lace stamens.
Still another square motif shows
heavy linen done in English eyelet
work in four shades of mahogany
red, with a center piece of teneriffe
work in the natural line color.
A four-inch embroidered band. which
can be used only on the vertical lines,
has foundation of pale blue silk,
shading slightly to a greenish tinge.
This is embroidered in Egyptian de-
signs, suggesting the Egyptian royal
fan in peacock green, a peculiar fad
ed rose and a dull yellow. The colors
are so combined as to give the inn
pressionist coloring frequently seen in
paintings of life on the Nile.
Braids and cords, worked into con-
ventional designs, come for trimming
white cloth gowns. A notable example
shows large and small disks, alternat-
ing and built of a fine white silk cord
Another pattern looks like fine shell
work and is done in flowers. When ex-
amined closely, each petal proves to
be bit of white silk braid or cord
cleverly twisted to simulate pearls OF
fine sea shells. These come in the form
of regular galloons or separate motifs
In the making of sparkling passem-
enteries quaint combinations grow and
multiply. A new pattern shows a
white silk net encrusted with tiny
white glass beads which sparkle like
dew drops. Upon this is wrought a
rose pattern in five shades of red, the
deepest being American beauty color
Another combination shows pearls
of various sizes worked upon a ground
of flashing jet. Spangled trimmings
are for silk or lighter fabrics.
The Savannah morning news., 1904-09-25

The most notable feature of the
ready-to-wear blouses for winter is
the heaviness of the textures employed
in their development. The feminine
world has fought long and hard against
the independent velvet waist, but this
is a velvet season, and the separate
waist, from severest shirt-waist cut
to ornate combination of fabric and
trimming, shows the influence of the
velvet craze. Cheaper editions of the
smart velvet waists shown in the
more exclusive shops are offered on
bargain counters in corduroy and vel
veteen, so that the shadow of the vel
vet waist or its imitation hangs over US
all.
The real beauty of the heavy shirt
waist lies in it's fit. Let it bag over
so little, let it show chickering's along
the seams, or bullying under the arms,
and it becomes cumbersome and I'M
lovely.
Plain and Tris.
The velvet shirt-waist proper is ex-
ceedingly plain and trig. An effec-
tive design in the popular gunmetal
velvet is dotted thiclly with black
and white disks to relieve the dead
gray hue. The front is laid in three
rather broad pleatS winch turn out
and give the effect of a fiat box pleat
through the center, under which
the waist fastens invisibly. The
sleeve pattern follows quite closely
that of a mans shirt sleeve and is
gathered into a shallow cuff. The
stock collar is bound all the way
around with a heavy satin, finished
with stitching, and is crossed in the
front, cravat fashion, being held
in place with rods of feather
bone.
Another striking gunmetaI blouse
has five graduated box pleats in the
front, each an inch and a half wide
and finished severely with stitching
in self-tone. The center pleat is the
longest, coming down to a depth of
seven inches. The intermediate pleats
are about five inches and the outside
pleats about three in depth. Each is
stitched to point where a gunmetal
button is used as an ornament. The
narrow cuff are also pointed and
trimmed with buttons, and a deep,
pointed girdle in the velvet has a
similar stitches and buttoned effect.
This makes an excellent waist for
wear with Oxford gray walking suits
or with a black shirt.
TwO-Piece Suits.
Shirt-waists in plain velvet or vel
Yeteen are shown for wear with the
velvet two-piece suits, but it is far
safer to have a blouse made to match
the shirt and coat than to trust to
ready-nade garments. So many
weights and tints-in velvet are shown
this year that matches are harder to
The Savannah morning news., 1904-09-25

in the swim has a Boston terrier. This.
is a smaller and less homely breed thar
the bulldog. He is not bow-legged and
he has a very short, but reasonably in
telligent face. The tail is bitten off
when the pup is a few weeks old.
Neither is he hard to bring up, but be-
cause he happens to be the lad with
the 400" the young Boston terrier
without pedigree to boast of will bring
thirty-five dollars. On the other hand,
the once popular pug can be picked up
during his puppydom for thirty-hve
cents or a trifle more
The Ciibsonesque girl and the ath-
letic girl remain loyal to the English
bulldog-the uglier the better. For the
country home the great Danes are con-
sidered, by all odds, the smartest dogs.
They are huge creatures, and II they
simply brush against child the force
is sufficient to knock the little one off
his feet: consequently a well-bred
Dane learns early to show his affec-
ton In his eyes alone. He is an ex-
pensive pet and eats as much as four
men. He is the most faithful Of all
household guardians. The most Iowa
BILE OF all dogs for country life, In n
family of small children, Is the Scotch
collie The dogs most popular among
city women for lap and carriage pets
are the French poodles, the hairless
Mexican dog. the fox terrier and, par
ticularly for women who have recent
~ returned from England, the white
Pomeranlan.
The French poodle looks for all the
world like bunch OF fuzz with the
hair hanging 80 thickiy over the face
that the eyes cannot be seen unless
the silky mass o. lifed up. Those
dogs are in champagne color or black,
and they have been o. great fad this
summer with women, who carried Thorn
30 match natural linen and ponFoc
gowns.
The MeNican hairless dog 30 about
nf uRiy n nifie creature Hr 0n0 cin
imarlno. ono d haa rllFrrinr, rDf-
eflng mature BIOS DO ftry h0me..ncsa
The Savannah morning news., 1904-09-25

here.
Angora cats are in great demand at
one hundred dollars each. They are
difficult to raise. having a most finicky
appetite, but they are affectionate and
faithful. and are made much OF py
fashionable women. The cat IL gray
or white. with long silky. glossy hair
A number OF fashionable women
have taken up parrots for the amuse-
ment Of teaching them the smart ana
spicy expressions Of the day. The
double-headed, yellow Mexican parrot
speaks distinctly and Will soon acquire
an extensive repertoire OF current
phrases. II Ia q gorgeous bird, with
yellow head and green body. II soon
becomes attached 20 is mistress ana
WIN talk az her command. These can
be bought as low on fifteen or twenty
dollars The African parrot n nehu-
ifully colored bird, with a gray hody
and "a red head Il talks more RAPID.
~ tnd is even more teachRhle than ~
Meflcan bird. but ne uttofanoe ~ nv
% distinct, and We cost u sixty dohAs-
The Savannah morning news., 1904-09-25

secure than ever before.
When the boundary of the simple
shirt-waist is passed modes become
so ornate as to be fairly bewildering,
but the woman who has patience to
work her way through the maze will
finally emerge convinced that Louis
effects are seen in the majority of
dressy velvet blouses. This means-the
presence of revers, vest of jabot and
a girdle. In the case of the girdle,
either the same materials employed,
or silk, or satin in exactly the same
tone as the velvet.
The Louis Blouse.
A striking illustration of the Louis
influence is shown in blouse of
amethyst velvet with a vest of tucked
chiffon. The fronts blouse distinctly
at the waist line and are given full
ness by three fine tucks graduated
from the shoulder to the bust line.
The Savannah morning news., 1904-09-25

into exceedingly elegant shirt-waists.
Dark blue, brown and hunters green
are popular, and no trimming is used
except self-tone stitching and buttons,
unless woman is fortunate enough to
possess some real Oriental embroid-
cred bands, which work in admirably
with this quality of pongee.
For housewear some of the prettiest
blouses are developed from challis
in delicate figures, with a touch OF
lace in the form OF a iabot and sleeve
rufiies. Down the front Of the blouse
the jabot is criss-crossed with velvet
ribbon held in place on either side
with diminutive fiat bows: or larger
bows of velvet ribbon, tied in butter
fly design and nesting in the lace. are
fastened at intervals down the center
of the front. The velvet ribbon
matches the most pronounced tone In
the figure of the challis, and the lace
the neutral foundation.
The Savannah morning news., 1904-09-25
Fashions FancieS in
Household Pets

The Prettier the Girl, the HOmelier
Her Pup.
Dame Fashion must be busy, indeed,
for Of late years she has not been
content to lay down the laws which
govern women's furbelows, but has
taken up the task of deciding what a
woman shall have in the way of pets.
1t seems only a year or so since the
English pug was the most desirable
ard fashionable canine, but now any
American woman who pretends to be