New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1904-04-17

Paris, April g.
II is curious how material tiny fash
ion will become universal. apparently without any
effort OF the dressmakers. At the recent Long
champs races, for instance there appeared a con-
spicuously large number Of finely checked voiles
The majority Of these were IN black and white,
but there some in colors, chiefly rosewood and
white or navy blue. even the brighter corn
flower blue with white the contrast In some
Instances these gowns were made with a sleeveless
bolero, or with other arrangement on the
bodice that suggested outside garment. and the
skirt was often trimmed with pipings Of SILK. a
consDicuous feature.
A nice example Of one OF the heavier canvas
costumes showed broken plaid black ground
and was trimmed with shot silk. The skirt fell In
two hounces both trimmed with pattern made OF
tiny silk folds. The bodice was shirred about
small enpiecement of ecru embroidered linen and
ornamented at the throat with Of tiny black
velvet bows. over this was worn an odd little
garment of the silk. short in the back and consist
ing mainly of two dolman sleeves worn well OH the
shoulders This is the characteristic effect OF all
the short silk coats. They must be attached IN
some way II only with invisible safety pins. TO the
dress bodice.
Another wolfe gown had noticeable sleeves. They
were laid in circular pleats. outstanding from the
wrist 10 the shoulders and finished with lace
ruf7e over the hands The sleeves close at
the wrists set into the armhole with no fulness
and their broadest point was at the elbows. The
material Of the gown fine checked black and
white that looked we'll with vest of white linen
embroidered in black. and with faring. open waist
coat of black silk ornamented with small brass
buttons. On the skirt were several rows OF box
pleated rufles lined with black.
On several OF the long. fitted Jackets were leg-of-
mutton sleeves of moderate size. sometimes with
a broad turn-up cuff, wider than the sleeve
or with q lace lined cuff faring over the hand.
THE DIRECToIRB COAT.
The horse show success sartorially was the Di-
rectoire coat There wers many examples OF It,
generally in silk worn with wolfe skirt, although
Il was seen in silk and cloth. A handsome gown
consisted Of a changeable green and dark red taft
feta worn with Directoire coat OF plain green
cloth. The coat had high. turnover collar and
pointed revers embroidered with soutache, and had
the cut-in piece above the waist which is so char
acteristic Of the Directore garment. There were a
lace talbot and enormous double lace ruchingS in
place OF cuffs
Another coat which looked well in silk had some
touches of the Marie Antonette period The silk
was white ground. dotted with cornhower blue.
and the little coat. fitted TO the waist. had an ex-
sggersted front. To the coat little pointed coat
tails were attached edged all about with a ruching
OF white gauge ribbon. About the shoulders was a
perfectly fat fchu, edged with the ruching. The
underblouse was OF quaint ivory colored lace,
/ with close sleeves almost to the wrist. and wide
cuffs lined with The skirt, which fell in full.
free side pleats. ornamented with simple
pattern OF white gauze ruchings placed half way
| between the hem and the skirt
The skirts that accompany these Directoire Jack
cts generally hang IN straight free folds. and are
either not triraned all else the trimming Is
( placed high up on the skirt Many OF the coats
have in reality only a single feature OF the true
Directoire garment but this feature is apt 10 he
the high collar which forms an attractive