Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-07-19
STYLES IN MEMS WEAR
INFLUENCE OF LIFE IN THE
OPEN ON DRESS.
Without Comfort There Cannot Be
Correctness-Fashion and Fit
ness Inseparably Linked.
From The Haberdasher.

multiplication of country clubs entfceS him
from town just as soon as the sun begins to
scar. It's the simple. wholesome pleasures
of outdoor life to which our men of wealth
and leisure are devOting themselves today
and, of course the influence of this on dress
cannot help being deep. l have traced this
influence from time to time, but am par
ticulary impressed with 1t this season when
the be-all and end-all Of fashion seems to
be to make man comfortable. The loose
jackets and full trousers, the absence of the
waistcoat, the narrow collars, soft cravats
and boots cut low, all breathe an atmos-
phere of ease and repose that is most re-
freshing Fashion and fitness. sense and
propriety go hand in hand. The man who
dresses queerly. the person of many fads,
III fine, the poseur as a species Is getting
rare. Even the untamed and untamable col
lege boy who fixes the fashions for the
younger set is slower to embrace the new
and the startling in dress and to tramp
hobnailed over taste and decOrum. l have
just returned from a trip to the leading
varsity towns and felt proud of the clean
limbed well-tubbed young men who show
so sure an appreciation of what is fitting In
dress. The American has in a Superlative
degree the knaCk of choosing that in which
he looks best and Of matching cravat shirt
and hose with the ensemble. By the by, the
overcoming rumor is afloat that momen-
tous changes will be attempted next au-
tumn in the cut and finish of evening suits.
This rumor appears so regularly each sea-
son that it looks suspcousy like the work
of one man, but 1T is probably only the
usual vaporing of the newspaper penny-a-
liner who is hard put to f1ll his allotted
space in the dog days.
Belts for Summer.
Belts for summer. and 1 say for sum-
mer' advisedly, because belts are worn the
year round by the varsity set, are still Of
stout harness leather or tough pigSkin.
They are very plain in cut and usually have
bright buckle that stands out against the
dark leather. Gunmetal buckles not to
be recommended, as they look funereal and
deprive the belt of its one bit of contrast.
For outing l have seen some new mems
belts of chamois and soft kid, but they seem
too effeminate in these athletic times when
simplicity and sturdiness underlie the whole
scheme of dress. Chamois gloves in corn
and biscuit shades preserve their vogue for
the sports and light country wear They
may be washed. OF course. channels gloves
belong purely to outing and have no place
in town. Fewer dress suit cases are seen
this season. saddler-sewn kit bags being
favored for travelling. The conspicuously
initiated dress suit case proclaims the tyro
from afar, and 1t has quite lost all smart
ness.
1t was last winter If my memory serves
me. that foreshadowed the decline of pat
ent leather for boots and it is now quite in
disfavor. Patent leather is too shiny and
l
mend itself to gentlemen. Calfskin is much
trimmer and more refined-looking, and any
of half dozen vanishing preparations to
be had of ones boot-maker will give 1t q
dull gloss that Is in much better taste than
the vulgar glitter Of patent leather. At
particularly smart wedding recently,
groom. best man and ushers alike wore var
nished calfskin boots. buttoned. of course.
l am quite aware that you cannot wean the
multitude from Its partially for patent
leather, which to 1t represents elegance en-
throned The youth who has his hair cut
like half moon in the back and wears
separable cuffs wouldn't feel "dressy''
(atrocious word. thaD without his patent
feathers. bless you, let him have them
and be happy.
Carrying the Watch.
What puzzles the average man greatly
during the waistcoatless days Is where to
carry his watch. If 1t is put inside the lit
tie pocket at the trousers waistband per-
SEPARATION Is apt to harm 1t and one cannot
reach It without a deal Of shifting and tug
ging. The proper place to carry the watch
Is in the breat-pocket of the jacket and mar
row strips Of leather. of black seal or tan
pigskin. take the place of watch chains and
buckle into the buttonhale Of the lapel.
These have been smart for several seasons
and go we'll with the easy, breezy clothes
of summer 1 do not approve of fobs and
they are not worn by the best-dressed men.
1t gives one a mussy feeling to have q bit
OF metal dangling from the waistband and
1t also detracts from the trim appearance of
the belt.
Jackets for autumn are to be cut some
what differently in the back Instead Of the
center vent. six and one-half deep. which Is
correct for spring and summer, there will
be two side vents cut web fashion. so as to
hold together when a man Is walking and
spread out fan shape when he sits. Aside
from this, see little that is very new in
The lapels on js ckets will still be
broad and low. but waistcoats are to be cut
high after the English manner. Thus the
waistcoat will show even when the jacket
Is buttoned. All this. though. Is purely
and I do not wish to be I'M
derstOod as chronicling the new fashions,
but merely sketching them in outline.
None Of the smart tailors are yet concerning
themselves with autumn's mode and 1t is
still In the formative stage.
Miscellaneous Hints.
For dip into the surf swimming suits,
not bathing suits, are in good form. These
are two-piece. sleeveless. plain or silk
striped and are fastened round the waist
with canvas belts. Pajamas for summer
come in cool linens, soft crepes or flmy
silks and are cut military fashion Under
suits have knee drawers and l think that
nainsook is the most comfortable and serv-
iceable of all the fabrics For Yachting
canvas or white buck shoes are approved
Reindeer and suede waistcoats are very
smart for shooting and hunting generally
Bath ropes, Dath sheets, bath towels, bath
slippers. bath mtts and bath mats are
necessary parts of the gentleman's ward
robe. So-called breakfast jackets of silk
and velveteen are worn for lounging about
ones room or on country porch a-morn-
ings. The rough hunting shirts are always
of flannel.
Low cut russets have passed the zenith
of their vogue and are now on the decline.
Strictly considered. the russell is purely a
foot covering for the sports and the coun-
try occupying the same position as the
Panama does among hats The russell Is
very popular" this summer and will in all
likelihood be tremendously popular next
year, but 1t has lost much of its smartness
and / see a return to sober calfskin among
the best-dressed men. OF course, the rus
set boot will always be correct for golf and
outing, but there It's place begins and ends
The broad outswinging sole. sharply point
ed, and the moderately high heel are pre-
scribed.