The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-01-09

Correspondence OF the Indianapolis Journal.
NEW YORK, Jan. 6.-The thermometer
stands at zero outside my window as L
write, and all Gotham is shivering, but.
nevertheless. there Is talk Of coming styles
in the air. Midwinter brides are eagerly
seeking the latest models for their trous-
seaux; those lucky folk who Will go South
next month are on the qui vive TO get APP
propriate and new gowns. and, for one rea-
son and another. the dressmaking world Is
alive with various interests. is eagerly dis
GUESSING the few styles that are fixed and
attempting to forecast what others will
arrive from across the sea.
Plated skirts and Etons OF all sorts may
be relied upon as correct with perfect safe
~. To-day / had the privilege OF seeing
four costumes sent over by leading Partisan
designers TO one of our best houses and
each and every included Elton OF
some sort and showed plaits in the skirt.
AS a matter of course. we will have other
things. The plain nared skirt has adher-
ents by the score and is worn and will con-
tinue to be worn. Loose coats are too well
liked 10 be allowed 10 fall into disuse. But
whatever else may come and whatever else
may find a ready public, the Etons will be
many and plated skirts essentially smart
AS a rule. however. fullness about the hips
Is dispensed with, either by means OF yokes
or careful shaping the hips are saved from
any effect of bukiness and the outline
which Is a great beauty of American figures.
IS preserved. The Etons are some blouses.
some the regulation little jackets. but all
include big, fancy sleeves. Sleeves, 1t
would seem. are TO continue features and to
be enriched and elaborated in every posi-
bic way. Soft frilIs over the hands are to
be almost general. Plaits OF many sorts
are introduced aad every possible device
for enhancing Importance appears TO have
been employed
We are 10 have much champagne color
and many tans and grays. both plain and in
mixtures. but dark blue is a standby that
never fails and small plaids may be looked
for In generous numbers. Among four
French models there were three dark blue,
one a tiny mixed plaid of green and blue
and two were broadcloth OF light weight.
one was "A cheviot. one, the plaid, a soft
wool Braids galore will be used All widths
and all sorts are to be expected and
variety OF weaves. but D. be at their best
must be combined with touches of gold.
How far the military craze will hold in the
spring IL is not possible To tell. but narrow
gold braids are abundant and are used In
many ways a most beautiful visiting cos
tune made with long skirt Is of navy blue
brOadcsOth and shows wide black silk braid
combined with narrow gold soutache on the
little coat The skirt is slightly shaped and
so fitted over the hips as 20 be quite smooth,
but Is full at the back and is trimmed with
bands of black silk braid two inches wide
set on between groups OF wide tucks two
each. There Is train but II Is a moderate
one.
THE PERENNIAL ETON.
The coat is an Elton jacket made double,
so TO speak The undercOat is of white
taffeta and is overlaid with red cloth braided
with black and gold for depth of some
four or five inches and 10 form a narrow
vest: over this falls the jacket proper which
Is finished with black braid like that on the
skirt and a fiat collar. The sleeves are the
big fun ones. to which have grown ac-
customed, with cuffs that match the vest
and under coat. The remaining costumes OF
the group are made with skirts just one
inch from the ground but are plated In
various ways. y most elegant royal blue
cheviot combines circular skirt with
blouse Eton and Is most charming as well
as suggestive. The skirt is laid in gradual
ed plaits on tucks that turn backward and
start at nothing Just below the hips. widen
ing 20 at least an inch and a half at the
lower edge Otherwise II is quite untrimmed
but the plaits. starting as they do below
that Is most admirable. The blouse Is by no
means elaborate but shows a wide belt OF
ehampagne-colored soft leather. that Is soft
and drawn into a narrow clasp at the front
and a fiat round collar ard turnover cuns
OF white cloth braided with blue touched
with black and gold
the effect OF a mixture at a little distance.
and includes most novel sleeves. The skirt
Is side-plaited below yoke. The Jacket
has the double effect already described the
under portion and vest being plain blue
deliberately braided; but the sleeves where
IA the glory lies. are complex. The inner
portions are without fullness but are Tapped
over the outer ones. which are laid I'm small
horizontal plaits from the lower edges more
than half way TO the elbows and stitched
for few inches, then fall free and provide
fullness for the big soft puffs. The plain
portions are finished with braid and are
held by small gold buttons, one over each
plat OF the outer portions. At the wrists
are narrow cuffs that are generously big
and below them fall the lingerie frills that
have taken 80 firm hold. A fourth suit f.
or blue cheNiot and II made with box plaits
treated In quite novel way. The skirt just
escapes the ground and H. laid I'm a success
sion or graduated double bOx-plalts that
are stitched fat 10 fiOunce depth and are
Joined TO a plain. pointed yoke. The Elton
jacket h short and jaunty with loose fronts
but In the sleeves its special feature Is
found. These are I'm two parts There are
the plain coat sort opened and cut away
81 the outer portion, but left complete at