davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-08-06

are, as rule, kept in one tone. the hat and Its plumes matching the self trimmed skirt and the coat
 Coiors this year are taking very pro- sac names. Among the most fashion, able are tobacco and dead leaf brown. onion. gooseberry green. raspberry and strawberry pink, mustard yellow. etc. Yellow In various shades is very much used as an accessory hue, and so, too. are bright dark greens and blues. cham pagne tints and a medley of rose hue. shaded materials and trimmings are very much used
 Very gradually the fashionable siI- houette has changed. until the clinging, droopihg modes of year ago, milady's sleeves ana skirts. stand out as if gently inflated. Over and again it is said that shoulders are long, but they no longer droop as they did. Breadth has been taken on. This Is accom-. plished In many ways. Sleeves now are fullest Just above the elbow. and at the, point Is found the greatest width. But the upper part of the sleeve is undergoing a transformation. It Is be- coming full from low shoulder to el- bow. There is one exception to thfs rule. the directoire costume. Here the sleeve Is more or less close-fitting it's entire length. ending in ( deep. wide cuff. from which droops a frill of lace.
 The shoulder and skirt are the cen- ters about which all the new modes are revolving. As to the shoulder, nothing must interfere with its outline, and this mandate extends also to the neck. The summary eA'inetion of the pelerine ana cape collars continues to bA heralded but they are conspicuous on Io1ne of the smartest creations from the best.tnou,, designers. The pelerine. to be sure bas assumed shawl-lIke air and inc cane
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-08-06
oARl5lAN-TAllOR ORMAD E.(

brims outlined with straw bands made up of many-hued straws braided to- gether. There are even the straw flow CTS, and something that is supposed to look like a straw feather.
 The chic turban continues to hold It's popularity. A stylish hat in the tur- ban shape. intended for dressy tailored costumes. was made of champagne straw of a very coarse weave. with golden brown satin taffeta ribbon and a shaded breast. in which the tan or beige tones were carried out. forming the trimming. The edge of the rolled brim was finished with a fold of the satin ribbon. and the ribbon was brought. over the belt side of the brim in soft folds. against which the shaded breast was disposed: square buckle of the straw braid concealed the end of the breast. This idea could be carried out effectively with green satin rbbin in a bright emerald shade, and shaded green breast instead of the brown. Green, by the way, is one of the sea sons features in the millinery world: green plums and paradise lagrettes be- ing much favored. especially as trtm- ming for a champagne colored straw. or a golden brown or black.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-08-06
By Our Special Correspondent.
 MIRIAM SPIER.

Day by day now. as the season ad- vances. come new styles, new materials, until 1t seems as though the clothes question were of paramount importance. for the consultations on the subject of dress are endless, and the attention of womankind in general is centered on the one absorbing topic. There are many reasons why this should be. Clothes are much more involved and intricate than ever before. and there are so many new fads and fancies that it really requires serious thought to plan out a satisfactory wardrobe.
 Skirts are most puzzling; the shape. design, trimmings and. above all. the length, must be most carefully con- sidered. One rule Is that all walking skirts shall be short; the next ultima junior all Fashions rules arc in the nature of an ultimatum-is to the eff feet that skirts must be long, as the short skirt is so extremely unbecom- ing. At this season of the year. when so many different styles of gowns must be made up. there must be frock to wear for a days shopping. for travel ing, for yachting. etc. In yelling. short gown is not effective, and yet yelling gowns are necessary. And so It goes, until the problem seems almost unsolvable But. after all, safe rule is to have skirts or gowns Intended for walking. travelling or shopping made short. and for afternoon gowns long demitrain or with long. sweeping train
 Flounced skirts are immensely fash ionable and bid fair to be more popular, and it is extraordinary how many dif- ferent styles of fiounoes there are-so narrow they are more in the nature Of ruff1es put on in gathered or pleated effect or quite scant, so arranged that one fiounce falls over the other or that there is a wide space between. and so on indefinitely. Trimmed skirts are es- sential. according to the latest dictates. One of the newest models has bias bands of the material put on full at one side and in loops and bands; be- tween these bands are narrow fringed ruchingsy of the same shade us the ma terial while the skirt itself Is gath cred into the waistband at the sides and back.
 Fringed ruchings of taffeta and chif- fon trim lightweight cloths and veil- ing gowns put on. as just described. between the fiat band of other trim mings or on the edge of the fiounces and of the color of the material or black In the new colored and figured veilings this is a most effective trim ming and bids fair to become a fad as it is comparatively inexpensive and so possible for the great majority. Box pleatings are also one of the new fash ions, and even the stiff old-fashicned pleatings in satin ribbon are attempted: 1t is too early to say they are accepted IS a new style.
 Coats and skirts costumes are said not 10 be SO fashionable as waists and skirts with separate coat or wrap, and yet no well-gowned woman would for a mo- ment think she could go through the season without cloth coat and skirt costume. More and more fashionable is
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-08-06
Description of Above
 Models.
A Parisian Tailor Made.

There is hardly a shade of red winch cannot be said to be more or less popu- lar in Paris at present, and in the new chiffon cloths with their exquisite finish these colorings take on an added luster. Somewhat on the shade of the jacque- minot red is the semi-tailored gown of the picture in which a little velvet. some oriental embroidery. lace and braid are all called-upon for decorative de- sign. The short coat sags all around over the boned girdle of velvet and braid. The sleeve is plain in the upper portion, puffy about the elbow. dropping into a deep faring cuff. edged with em- broidery and having a lace wrist ruff fie. The skirt is cleverly built in three sections. mounted upod a moneybank taffeta foundation, the upper portion. which extends to below the knee, clev- erly draped in tablier fashion across the front The finishing fiounces are each machine stitched and piped with vel vet, and a shallow band of princess haircloth is inserted in the hem of the drop skirt to afford the new contour to the skirt.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-08-06
The Wide Sleeve.

The increasing size of sleeves from the elbows downward has not only grown Into a perplexity for the dressmakers. but has even troubled the manufac- turers who have now produced the more fashionable fabrics for summer wear in wide widths so as to permit these voluminous sleeves to be cut all in one piece. This is especially true in muslins and the summer silks. The most fash ionable fabrics now as shown by the demands in the swell Parisian and Lon don shops are the fine quality soft goods. such an linon de sole. coliennes ann crepe de chine. These goods when made up require only lace trimming. as they are made with so many frills and ruchings of the materials them selves that other trimmings are dis couraged-
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-08-06
AF0RcOUNTRy-WEAR.

collar Is a cape pure and simple. or is merged into deep stitched yokes or sleeve capes. The incoming directoire nodes whose arrival no one Is dis putting. are bringing with them lapels. waist coats. deep girdles and shoulders not a whit less sloping than in 1880 models, but with an added breadthy and bouffantry.
 The majority of the smartest imported tailor-mades have full skirts full clear to the girdle. A large number of such toilets are without the sign of gore the volume being plaited or shirred ac- cording to the whim of its maker. Take such a skirt, cut 1t with two inches on the floor in front and at the sides, and you have this summers masterpiece of the Parisian couturiere, garment made without thought of the exigencies of pedal movements.
 As to shapes in hats. thero arc as many as there are milliners to rRaile them. It is one of those seadcns wl.cn the demarcation between the fashionable and the unfashionable is very vague. and when anything that is becoming, picturesque or suitable goes. Smart tailor hats are trimmed with straw buckles. straw buttons, straw caba- chous. stray bows and often have their
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-08-06
The Eton Jacket and Bolero.

Eton-shaped Jackets and short-waisteti boleros left open fin front are very fash fonable just now. and as all the newest blouses are made of the thinnest possi- ble material an out of door jacket is really necessary. In these jackets the collar is always separate, and the sleeve is made all in one piece. The latest fad of cutting side piece all in oue with the front is great advantage. as it makes the jacket more suitable, and if double-width soft fabric is used. as eolienne or chiffon velvet. the jacket can even be made without shoulder seams. Liberty silks or wide. soft taffetas are been adopted by the most exclusive cos- tuners of both London and Paris.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-08-06
Defining the New Figure.

4 There Is quite change in the fashionf- able silhouette when the newer modeA are employed. The round waist of the 1890 period and of the later Directoite styles give a very different outline to the figure. This is charmingly shown i'm the gown illustrated. The fashionable bolero is arranged over a fitted waist coat of oriental embroideries in soft, faded colorings. which tone in well with the delicate almond green tint of the cloth A broad tressed novelty braid in a deeper tone with glint of gold show ing<through it outlines the bolero. and serves to define the fancy panels upon the skirt The hip yoke is cut with long rounded tabs, a second series of panels appearing beneath. with lSilted portions deftly Inserted. The length clears the ground, just barely touching in the back. The torpedo turban repeats the tender almond green tints of the gown. and little knots of velvet Jacqueminot roses in the faded tints reposed at either side.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-08-06
For Country Wear.

Tweeds have ever been the choice of tha clever dresser for country and out door wear, and the mannish mixtures in these while not exactly inexpensive, in- evltably prove the best in the long run They look and wear we'll hold their shane under even the toughest wear, and best of all. are decidedly fashion able The loose or semi-fitting coat is the newest fashion, and those of Nor folk cut are very fiattering to slender figures. A very dark brown tweed is thiclSly fiecked with white in the illus fration. The coat is loose, with Norfolk straps. cut bias passing over the shoul- der, The sleeve is of the plain tailor nattern, and the velvet collar softens inc severity of the design. The skirt is gored, with a single box pleat overiaid on each gore and stitched down to the knee. The skirt is unlined and finished with a brown velveteen binding. which effectually protects the smart black shiny shoe from rubbing.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-08-06
The Town Tailor -Made.

Rather a novel effect is shown in thls l,s severely plain tailor-made in l,is daIa hunters green. Both cut and coioLill55 a very piouant touch is given in the COZ lar of black velvet. The coat comes a 70 just over the curve of the hips, has hL, |, ted back, with quite little sprinsr srba ,a fronts are semi-ftting. with a slngie dart, and fasten after the fashion oi ,n four-button cutaway. The skirt is nh n ls gores, with inverted pleats ,,S ln Sa all around, a tailored binding .finisn,ns oa9 on9 hem. Patch pockets appear on aand tne wa and give a very jaunty effect lnoeeu'
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-08-06
A Pleated Design

An extremely graceful design is ths one pictured and one which will lend it. self to almost any figure with equally good effect. Inserted fan pleats are the leading motif and these are used liberally. The short coat is fitted in the back. the pleats forming a postilion. while the fronts. with the pleats in serted below the bust line are left to hang free The skirt is gored with slot seams, the pleats inserted under an inset of gold gauge with little velvet buttons The sleeve is large, and a Ht- tie cape effect is gained in the deep cap which heads the full puff.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-08-06
The TaiIor-Made 1Turban.

The closely fitting turbans are; if f a1ys 1Ss eariS snrinr. They fit in so well with tbe's the sshirtwaist iPit suit and the generally less less formal style of summer dress ss ,nat .nat their success is not at all 10 Sa, pe ~J1- r,ic- tsred tured is S in fancy straw of medium ,a green tint. the brim composed oi rrhe rhe Straw arranged in upstanding loops. the tae back and projects slightly in the front a shallow bandeau in the headpiece al
 fording the necessary lift puncn, oI side. the long stems looped, and velvet foliage is carried all around the brim, with strands of the stems failing in the
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1904-10-01
COLOMBIA HAS
HERSELF TO BLAME

New York oct i-Copies have just
been received here Of the report to his
government Of Gen. Rafael Reyes now
president Of COLOMBIAN who was sent to
this country on a special diplomatic
mission AN am attempt Ia modify the
action Of the American government IN
regard to Colombia interests In Pana-
ma The mission was without result
The report, which is Of considerable
length severely arraigns the short
slghtedness OF the Colombian represen-
tatlyes that led TO the misfortunes
which befcl Colombia after the nego-
tIatons Of the Hay.Horran treaty fell
through
in conclusion the report says;
I'VE must admit that the United
States government had granted 20 us
by way OF compensation In the Hay
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1904-10-01

Herran treaty much more than we had
asked IN the memorandum OF our min
lister I'm Washington which served as
basis FOR that treaty Comparing these
two documents, the government Of the
United states might we'll point 60 the
generosity Of It's dealings with Colon
bia and obtain the public opinion Of
the civilized world. especially that OF
the United States and France, In con-
sdering as an ndisputable fact that
the obstlnacy Of our government was
the only real obstacle TO the construc-
ton OF the canal by The United states,
which was the only agency capable Of
bringing to completion 80 colossal and
gigantic a work
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1904-10-01

for The United states. There were
about 100 mail pouches on the car,which
was sealed and heavily locked on ar.
irving at Rouen this morning II was
found that the American mail car had
been broken open and that the pouchts
were IN great disorder Nlnety-one bagA
had been opened and their contents
Mncd OF such yaluables as they may
have contained There Is no record or
their contents or NJ the yaluables ab'
strocted
Havre, Sept &c. The mail car was
robbed between Hayre and Paris last
evening and contained 9S bags, OF Witch
seven were filled with printed matter
for R0uen and the remainder contained
letters for America. The thieves opened
seven of the Rouen bags and Ave Of
those Tor America The latter were
from Madrid Tor Mexico II ~ lmprob'
able that the thieves Identified the bags
containing registered letters but this
has not yet been ascertained.
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1904-10-01
WHERE is THE DEED 2
Mrs, Burke Searching for Her Dead
Brothers Effects,

Mrs James Burke, sister OK Dennis
Gallagher. the old man who dropped
dead Of heart failure In the Elk saloon
on April ith ot this year arrived I'm
Salt Lake yesterday TO search his eff
fects, She believes that In a trunk
which he kept IN his rooming house
he had placed deeds TO a 1000 acre
ranch in California valued at $4,000.
The trunk disappeared from the room
Ing house two days before the old
mans death and so far Mrs Burke has
been unable TO locate IT, According to
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1904-10-01
Can't SMITHS License Revoked

san Francisco. oct 1.-The license OF
Capt G. A, Smith OF the steamer West
por, has been SUSPENDED Tor 80 days by
United States local inspectors OF boilers
and hulls. The steamers Pomona and
Westport colllded Sept. on Point
Reyes The license was suspended for
negligence. The inspectors also sus.
pended the license Of w IT, GcnereauX,
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1904-10-01
I1IINTERI IS
CONTAGIOUS.

y,,k oct 1.-The second l.. an.
NF o,' of the rockefeller institute
ril f' l'o.l research just issued deals
~ n'a'. ..,,D me bachteriolosiyal M
hffy ,,on Of children affected win
''l's' ., forms Of dlarrhoea
tt'I'u ..oort declares mat dysentery
Iae I. .loas ana that the use OF antl'
& cnlasi,o'l no, proved a success.
5l's'nle,sSsi f N the children treated
Satly n .srrm died and in only rev
Win ne "a a. q noteworthy Improvement
.iis qls administration. The lnveStl-
N0op ~ go" p have not yet given up
gie'' 1 Wing ihe serum 10 advantage
hsDs o. eass ,g WIN be continued
id i a1s,sefeller institute was founded
ne , hO,"Dp rockefeller IN June, 1901,
y Jon n initial glft Of 100000 all Of
s ID, az uss 10 be expended in research.
s' pen. s me eyoerts connected with the
= ig have devoted themselves
f '..,, 70 ehDdren's diseases The scope
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1904-10-01
riny Lumber Cargoes Sent.

Astoria, Or oct i-Flfty humber
cargoes were sent from the Columbia
river during the month ended Sent 30
This does not include 100000 feet cons
tanned I'm log raft towed TO san Fran.
cisco by the Steamer Leggett Tho
total shipments exclusive Of the log raft
for tho month. domestic and foreign,
were ll,4i3,iSl feet
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1904-10-01

Mrs Beta Anderson, tho proprietor,
Gallagher ordered the trunk sent away
o day or two before his death, stating
That n was To- go 20 another rooming
house, An cXptessman called, and took
Il away. She could not describe tho
expressmau and knew nothing about
him or whore Il would be possible TO
find him.
Mrs Burke has placed her interests
iu the hands Of Atty +. McGurrin and
leaves today Tor California, TO attempt
10 have the deeds established I'm the
records Of the land office In the county
where the ranch Is located.
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1904-10-01

and facilities Of the institute win soon
be increased by the erection Of lab.
oratory which viii cost 100000
Twelve bacterIologists had charge Of
tho Investigations OF dysentery In child.
rem and the work was divided among
laboratories In New York. Philadelphia,
Boston and Baltimore Many hospitals
and dlspensaries I'm these cities coop
Grated and furnished material for stud.
les
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1904-10-01

No. % or ga at Royal Enamel Rice
Boilers, Regular price Sl25, Sac /
Stock reducing price. -" 90. -, Wv
gallon Glass oil Cans Regular
price 20 cents. Stock Re DC
No Common Lamp Chmneys
Regular price 10 cents lr
Stock reducing price, Of. 90. ",,,
No Common Lamp Chmneys.
Regular price, 10 cents Sc
Stock reducing price. =. %, ..,. w
No. Flint Lamp Chmneys.
Regular price Is cents 2c
Stock reducing price, -. 49,. ,... w
No Brass Burners. Regular
price 10 cents, stock reducing Ac
price" .. 90, ... .,",., ",,",",'N
No. Brass Burners, Regular price
Is cents. Stock Reducing hc
price, -. .s,..s't.s.ss,,st.s,,
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1904-10-01

London Sept 3O.--'rhe return OF tho
total revenue OF the United Kingdom
for the half year ending today shows
a decrease Of Si5.233b25 compared with
the corresponding period Of 1903 The
principal decrease Ia IN the property
ana income tax, Sl2l00,O00
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1904-10-01

Paris, Sept. 3O.-A bold robbery has
been committed on a mail car, between
Paris aud lIayre, containing a quantity
OF American mail The train, which
left here at midnight contained q mali
car which was entirely given up TO mail
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1904-10-01

Wringers. wood frame, l0x1A inch.
IIolls' hardwood frame, regular price
Ng5 each stock reducing price CT ~
VaOnJ "''.''.''. ....,...,.,,,,,.Vi'H
Wringers, guaranteed. wood frame
loUs lOSlA, regular price $500 each,
o 'cSSS, 'o %a.ns.I price o,.. S2.04
Nringers' iron frame, galvanized
apron, rolls i0SlA, regular price $500
seon. stock reducing price cl0s
V"N"I '''''''.''. .',,...,.. ..Vi'Vo
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1904-10-01
- : =. - - IHaH.HaHHHHHsH.sH
LUUIN BRAND |
TUnTNH GUTTER |
NOTHING BUT BUTTER"

We are also manufacturing
Ha2eluut butter which IS fancy,
II Is made from selected cream
best modern methods used In
making lt This butter Is wrap
ped with parchment each pound
enclosed with a parahned carton
which is sealed with an outside
autographed wrapper Ask your
grocer to get 10 foy you
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1904-10-01

third mate Of the Pomona, for 90 days,
for being negligent
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1904-10-01
TEA
Moneyback makes it down
hill to your grocer's all round;
downhill downhill downhill
downhill.

You, po,, r.iur, your noosy h you don't lIs'
khilhng, Bel,
The Cairo bulletin., 1904-03-17
HIGH SCHOOL NOTES

The boys did not have their regular
physical culture exercises yesterday
morning, but instead had outdoor re.
cess.
Fred Hartman, of the freshmen
class, and Pansy Cronan, OF the iu.
nior class, were unable to attend
school yesterday on account Of being
i'll.
The pupils of Mr. Stones algebra
classes have been working problems
outside of the regular text book
Mr. Clendenen has a large class OF
pupils in his spelling classes, who are
contesting for the honor of represent
ing Cairo at the Egyptian High School
league meet at Marion, Ill.,, May = and
Z.
The pupils of Mr. Bannister's civil
government classes had an examina.
ton yesterday morning,
Miss Mckee has been preparing
the pupils in her rhetoric classes for
an examination on the work they
have been doing this term.
The Cairo bulletin., 1904-03-17
JOKE CONTEST.

The committee having in charge
the Elks' minstrel, have decided to
give every one an opportunity TO dis
play their wit and originality To this
end, they will give five free tickets to
their mammoth minstrel performance
to be given at the Cairo opera house.
April 4th, for the three best original
jokes under the following conditions:
Two free tickets for the best joke,
two free tickets for the second best
joke and one free ticket for the third
best joke. These jokes must be Of
strictly local character and will be
used in the above performance.
Write your jokes on one side of the
paper your name on the other and
address to odd JOKER care of Elks'
club, Cairo, I'll. The contest will close
Saturday, March Goth, and the names
Of the winners announced in the Sun.
day morning Bulletin of March eth.