Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1904-04-23
NEW YORK FASHION LETTER

New York, April 2S.-Keen obser.
vers of feminine fashions have made
an interesting discovery, while max.
ing the rounds of the Paris dress
building studios. They claim to have
found positive evidence that the pre-.
vailing style is at present in a period
of transition and by slight modlh-
cations of the characteristic features
assumes greater resemblance to the
the styles worn by the women of
fashion during the early part of the
sixties. Those who are not we'll &C.
quainted with the characteristic fea.
lures of the fashions of 1880 and of
those of 1860 and, for that reason
are not able to distinguish between
them, will, probably, not notice the
change, but the eyes Of the experts
are not easily deceived. The new
style Of skirtG which will shortly
enter upon their migration from Paris
to New York and fiat in front, plated
tucked, or gathered around the back
and sides and have two deep rufies,
headed with pinked quilting. In some
cases there is a deep pun at the head
of a plated rufie of equal depth.
The materials used for these skirts
will mostly be of soft character.
Among the features which will be
revived by the new fashion Is the
perfectly round turnover collar Of EN-
broidered batiste. 1t can be worn
on the smartest and most elaborate
frocks, instead of the stock. 1t turns
directly owe the neckband and is
held together in front by a small
brooch, either containing a mixture
or made of coral. Another novelty
in harmony with the 1860 style is
the surplice blouse, which is arranged
in the most graceful folds for after.
noo and dinner gowns and filed in
with a V-shaped vest Of some fine old
lace, leaving the neck bare.
In place of ruffles of lace or lin.
gerie such of embroidered batiste
and handsome qualities of English
embroidery will be used extensively.
The fashion in laces seems to have
undergone a radical change and only
the finest and most delicate kinds of
lace seem to be in favor. The oar
er kinds and drawn work are becom-
ing more and more neglected.
AS the season progresses 1t be.
comes quite evident that there is a
gradual return to the overskirts which
years ago were so fashionable. Elk
cepting in severe tailor-made plain
skirts are scarcely used any longer.
There must be something, if nothing
else, a wide lounce or two to sug-
gest the overskirt idea. Skirt dra.
peries are constantly approaching
the former style of overskirts, and a
complete revival may confidently be
expected soon.
When a leader of fashion like Pa.
quin begins to make changes in Ger,
tain essential features of the prevail
ing fashion it may be taken as a sure
indication that the present fashion
will not last much longer and is
gradually working out in some diff.
ferent direction. An expert who has
just returned from Paris and has
made a special study of the work of
the most famous dressmakers of Par.
is, says that PaQuin Is beginning to
deviate from the present style. His
skirts are said to be much fuller and
preference is given to gathers over
pleats. He also has made some radE
cal changes in bodices. He has dis
carded the blouse style and replaced
them with closely draped and pointed
bodices. To this he adds full elbow
sleeves. Some of his bodices have
sleeves with long u~ndersleeyes of
lace from the elbow down. These
lace sleeves end four or five inches
above the wrist and leave the lower
part of the forearm bare. A similar