The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-04-09

plain to the modern eye unless she is
mOdiShly dressed and give a woman
clothes and the knack of wearing them
and she will create the illusion OF
beauty whether she has it or not.
There was a time, says a writer IN
the New York Sun, when the term tall
or-made called up visions of a digni-
fed toilet built on the trimmest lines
with a finish that was above reproach-
But all that has gone by with other
evidences of the simple life when,
in these eXtravag CANT days, is a theory
all the more attractive because it is
so far removed from gray facts The
finish is still here, but it is no longer
the finish achieved mainly by the Ia /
or's sewing machine and goose The
whole range of materials from crepe
de chine TO hOmespun and tweed are
called into use for this spring tailor
suit, and all the trimmings in the man
ufacturers and the needlewOrker' 5 car
egOry are employed in unstinted eN-
travagance upon it. The last line Of
demarcation between the tailor and
dressmaker is down and both are re-
sorting to devices once mOnopoliZed by
the milliner. The tailor has abandoned
his legitimate tools for the needle,
which accomplishes the largest part Of
his work.
The shoulder and skirt are the cen
tres about which all the new modes
are revolving. As to the shoulder, moth
ing must interfere with its outline, and
this mandate extends also to the neck
The summary extends also to the necs.
rine and cape collars continues to be
heralded, but they are conspicuous on
some of the SmarteSt creations from
the best known designers. The pele-
rine, to be sure, has assumed a sha WI
like air and the cape collar is a cape
pure and simple or is merged into
deep stitched yOkes or sleeve caps. The
incoming DiTectoire modes, whose ar
fc 4 fr7c
with them lapelS. WaiStcoatS, deep
girdles and shoulders not a whit less
sloping than in 1880 models, but with
an added breadth and bOuffantry.
It would be safe to say that in any
collection of models from well known
European makers not an observable
break could be found between the
shoulder and sleeve. This point is sure
to be covered by a cape, cap, yoke
or other detail But the appearance
is obtained in a host of ways, and as
likely as not the sleeve is set high.
where the slope is most apparent It
is the effect and not the fact that is
sought in this or any other years
styles. Some of the new blouses, which
are fitted at the bust and below, are
shirred at the shoulder, and this shir-
ring falls into line with the shirring
of the full sleeve. This is one way of
circumventing the situation and blend
ing the high armhOle so deity with
I folds that its identity is entirely lost.
But the cut of such a bodice needs an
artist to accomplish it. In a garment
like the one referred to, from Paris,
| the back was notably narrow and was
smooth fitting. For a taffeta or mes
saline suit a broad effect at the Shout
! der may be obtained by a cape of
/ frivolous cut. made of the double silk,
I incrusted toward the neck with en-
broidery or lace, or both. Such capes
are fitted to the figure by broad plaits,
which give volume to their double
/ edge Where such a cape is used
/ there needs to be a full sleeve below
i it with which its folds may mingle.
The Elton blouse and bolero are the
! favorite jackets for walking suits The
/ former, as a rule, bags all around, but
4 its pouch al the back has the appear
ance of a plat which, coming at the
waist line, has given it the compound
title As if to forestan styles that
will be more pronounced six months
from now than at present, lapels. which
are quite b~oad, finish many of the col
/ larIess suit wraps These lapels are
made of stitched or tucked silk. en-
broidery braided cloth, silk or lace
according TO the character of the foun-
dation. From Paris come the tidings
that plain tailor-Tnades are coming gu
with long fitted coats But no sucf
influence has been felt on this side o.
the water.
Il For sturdy wear there are more thar
the usual number of attractive mater
ials this spring. Among them brown.
and grays play a leading part Sucl
names. titles Of certain new tones. a
tobacco brown, mouse gray ana ele