The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-04-09


moderate purse. I would urge every
woman who cannot have trimmings OF
the best to leave them severely alone.
Any trimming with a tinseI effect is
tawdry and may be denounced at once
as bad form. When forced to be eco
nomical it is much better to stick to
silk cords. fiat silk braids and the
rougher military weaves, and even
these have a discouraging fashion Of
mounting up into quite ambitious fg-
ures.
While upon trimming thoughts intent
let me tell you that Russian cross
stitch patterns come in the new rib
bons, and the effect of this used as
vest, collar and cuffs on a plain dress
is very good. A cavalry yellow is used
very successfully as a cording on black
and white gowns.
For tailor mades brown, navy blue
and scarlet form the leading colors, and
bright shades of periwinkle and cleo
trio blue have given place in some in
stances to the navy blue, but for the
coat and skirt the marine shade will
always be de rigueur. These gowns are
simply fashioned, and nothing in the
way of contrast is used except white
with a mixture of gold and silver.
Paquin has just turned out a delight
full costume in brown rough faced
cloth, the skirt arranged in large plaits
about two inches below the waist, just
clearing the ground all round. The lit
tie bolero coat ends above the waist,
showing a blouse of finely plated crepe
de chine of a brighter shade Of brown
and a belt Of kid to match. This smart
bolero is edged with fiat, brown silk
braid and a killing of taffeta- The high
collar of the shirt is finished with a
hemstitched cravat, and the bolero is
tied with a brown Grape scarf having
knotted fringe on the ends. The chic
little hat, worn tilted over the face. is
made of two shades of brown straw,
with clusters OF green leaves and bows
of straw at the back Boots of brown
and suede gloves of the same color
complete this extremely neat toilet.
The same house of Paquin also show
ed a dainty house gown of taffeta with
tucked skirt and corsage of lace and
soft ribbon bows and bouillonnes of
taffeta.
In all the gay wealth of color one is
apt to overlook the mourning frock. A
simple and beautiful costume de deuil
was of soft black cashmere, the greater
part of the bodice and front panel on
the skirt made of Grape. the same ma
teriaI being used for deep band which
finished the skirt at the sides and the
back.
A chapeau for state occasions is the
light affair created from the thinnest
of fabrics-tulle, lace and sometimes in
lets of straw. The lingerie hats in
embroideries and black and white lace
are features of new millinery. Even the
straw sailors and useful hats are OF
transparent effects, often a mingling
of two contrasting shades and different
kinds of braids. A new leghorn hat is
fancifully turned up at one side and
mounted on a bandeau of soft, twisted
white ribbon and black velvet, the
same combination making the large
bow where the hat turns at the side
Black and white feathers curl over the
back of the hat. The popular sailor
comes in a different guise this season
rolled high in the back and trimmed
over the shallow crown.
The present fashions in their entirety
cannot be worn by everybody. but with
notifications are quite within the reach
of tall, short, thin or stout 4 piece Of
advice given not long ago by an old
lady who knew the world wen was
Hold yourself up. my dear. and look
as though you We're somebody, and it
doesn't make any difference whether
your frock is 1880 or 1904"
I am inclined to agree with her.
CATHERINE TALBOT.