The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-02

broderie anglaise or eyelet work.
Gold braiding will also be employed
for sleeve fiounces. stocks, Jokes and
jabots. The jabot will be a distinct
feature of the dressy house frock as
well as the Louis coat for street wear.
Plain and Shaded sequine.
Sequins. plain and shaded, will play
an important part in house frocks, and
notable study in the many shades
of brown so popular at present is
shown in a house gown, which might
truly be said to represent the colorings
of the golden pheasant. The effect is
secured entirely through the use of
many tinted brown sequins or glisten-
ing paillettes so small that it takes a
expert French needlewoman not less
than six weeks to sew them on to the
net foundation. The color scheme.
drawn for her exactly as for an artist
follows the colorings of a blossom or
a bird.
The skirt follows the tunic pattern.
the upper part being fitted closely
around the hips and 1aring somewhat
fl ON the knee down. The foot is out
lined by succession of tiny chiffon
ruff1es on the outside of the drop skirt
and of silk ruffles sewn under the drop
skirt, which emphasizes the flare. The
tunic lines are best suited to all these
sequined skirts, as trimming is out
of the question when the smooth,
glistening effect is desired, but the fit
should notN be too tight, even when
the wearer's figure is well-nigh per-
feet.
The blouse has yoke, vest and I'M
der-sleeves of dotted net in golden
brown, the center of each figure in the
net being finished with glistening Sc
quin. The bolero is of sequined net.
lined with diminutive chiffon ruffies
The sequins shade from dark golden
brown to greenish brown, with here
and there a. hint of flaming orange
The color combination is possible only
for a brunette with an ivory complex
ion, or for a. certain type of pure
blonde, best described as she who has
hair that tinges on copper color and
skin like an almond.
Trying Times for Some Girls.
Indeed, these are trying times for the
girl whose complexion is not above
reproach, and if the men and women
who have settled the colors of the sea-
son have not driven many sober
woman to touch up her hair and skin
by artificial means, it will be truly
rennarka BILE.
Another imported gown which de-
mands a fine complexion is of chiffon
cloth, the color, A faint pearl gray
and the decoration guipure lace of the
heaviest sort.
The skirt is circular with a grad
uated, circular f1ounce. Appliques of
lace, alternated with repousse sprays
of velvet in self-tone, conceal the
joining of the f1ounce. The bodice,
which opens in the back is of chiffon
on a silk lining :. laid in innumerable
tuckings and ruchings. The bolero is
of chiffon cloth, edged with heavy
guipure lace.
Suggestions of La POmpadOur.
Suggestions of La Pompadour come
in the hand-painted, panels introduced
into house gowns of elaborate fashion
This is a class of work which calls
for the highest abilities, and the gill
who imagines she can paint the panels
and insetS for her afternoon or party
frock must look well before she leaps
Painting on silk, satin and long pile
velvets is an entirely different art
from decorating water color paper or
coloring burt-Wood designs. 1t is
an art which belongs particularly to
the French school of dressmaking, and
is also accomplished by skilled hands
in Vienna and London. The coloring
must be so laid OH as to give a certain
shadowy effect, as if the flowers or fig
ures used were woven in and not laid
on. Shadowy Dresden or Pompadour
effects are best liked.
An imported hand-painted frock
shows hand-painted panel or taffetas
combined with crepe de chine. A firm
quality of taffetas was employed for
the panels in the skirt, the bertha and
the sash. Each panel. inset into the
crepe de chine, is outlined by point
de gene lace. The blouse has elbow
sleeves and the skirt is shirred into the
waist. With this will be worn white
silk stockings, hand-painted on the
instep with pompadour wreaths.
Striking Gown of Velvet.
A striking gown of velvet which Is
suited for calling and reception wear
gives a princess effect, in spite of the
fact that it can boast of a distinct
bodice and skirt. The bodice is deep
ly pointed at the waist line. and the
front shows yoke and plastron of net
overlaid with coarse Breton lace. The
sleeve shows a moderate puff above
tightly fitted cuff of lace The skirt
fits snugly around the hips and shows
only a moderate sweep around the
hem, a circular flounce, which looks
like a broad galloon inset into the veil
vet, being applied beneath the deep
incrustation of chenille dotted net
and lace.
Velvet ribbon forms an important
factor in the ornamentation of house
gowns. and graduated butterfly bows
are sometimes used down the front of
a gown. These start in a small size
at the collar and gain width as they
near the foot of the dress. This is
particularly true of house gowns
where pompadour or petticoated eff