The San Francisco call., 1904-02-13
Hints Upon DreSsJnakiHg.
BY DORA NAY MoRRELL

Is OF moment 10 every woman. and
justly so. since she is judged by what
she wears and since she expresses her
self whether consciously or otherwise
in her raimenL She who can cut, fit
and make her clothing is fortunate,
quite as much SO as is she who can
go 10 a frst-class tailor or modiste
and order without further trouble the
gown she needs al the price she Will
pay. but the one is almost as rarely
found as the other II a girl or woman
has the time 10 do her own sewing
she can invest no money where il Will
bring larger and more satisfactory re-
turns than in learning the trade OF
dressmaking for her own benefit.
There are many little things that one
must learn from good dressmaker
II she is 10 have results that look pro-
fessionsl instead Of homemade.
For the average woman there are
three courses open when il comes TO
renewing her wardrobe. She can go
10 a shop and buy a dress ready made,
she can buy her goods and take them
for making TO the average maker. or
she can have a good woman sew for
her at home. To take the goods TO
an average dressmaker is the most ex-
pensive Of the three and likely TO be
more unsatisfactory than either OF the
other methods. No dressmaker will
make a costume or gown as well and
chesply as il can be bought ready
made AZ any good house. where the
changes in fitting are made at small
cost.
The arguments in favor Of having
a dressmaker at home are many. In
The first place, one can sew with her.
doing basting. stitching on the ma
chine and taking lessons i'm good work
al the same time: there is an economy
in the first cost and also through the
opportunity OF using Innings one has on
hand. bits Of silk etc: also. one saves
great deal in the year by having her
pieces Of Innings, goods and spools Of
thread left over in her possession. How
much difference this makes one will
realize only after experience shows
her The oresmaker who comes TO
the house is much more ready to use
bits Of lace and ribbon than is her
sister who has an establishment TO
keep up and must therefore be less
economical Of time and goods
There are two ways in which the
woman who wishes TO be we'll dressed
al small expense viii not economfze-
she viii not buy inferior lining nor will
she hire any but an expert dressmaker.
Some Of those who go out by the day
in cities charge s4 and are worth it in
the style Of their work. In two days
such a one viii cut and fit several
gowns. and her employer or a seam
stress VIII do the simple work Almost
as good is a skillful woman who can
nj and who viii use any Of the excel
lent patterns by which she may get the
design wanted.
Since a dressmaker is paid by the
day, the woman who engages her. If
she is wise. viii have everything in
readiness for her when she arrives.
even 10 an idea Of the way in which the
dress shall be cut. If il is 10 be made
BY pattern that should be at hand
When the dressmaker is engaged she
should be consulted as 10 the amount
Of Innings and findings, and these
should all be provided at the outset.
II is poor economy 10 have to go shop
ping while the dressmaker waits. Such
trimmings as could not be bought be-
fore operations were begun should be
planned On the day that the dressmaker
comes and be bought at once
One essential that is too often for
gotten is a machine in perfect order.
II one is without this useful household
servant she may hire il for a week for
81 or less. II one is the owner of a
machine she viii see that it is we'll
cleaned and oiled the day before the
oressmaker comes. for by taking il a
day early she does not have to take
the time for the task when she might
be working with her dressmaker. and
the oil is then past the dripping stage.
Those who use machines know the ir-
ritating way drops Of oil have OF ap-
pearing after the machine has been
well wiped and il is supposed TO be
free from any such danger
Prepare for the dressmaker By hav-
ing everything ripped that is 10 be
made over. the threads removed and
the goods sDonged or cleansed II neces-
ssry. There is nothing better for
cleansing wOOlens and silk than water
IN which soap bark is placed This
viii remove the shiny appearance from
black silk. Bits Of velvet NAV be
steamed over a not iron and viii be
ready 10 do service again. Laces may
be washed in gasoline II white, but are
not 70 he starched or ironed DO not
wash ia q room where there is a
fire. as il is unsafe. Each picot should
be picked out with a pin and the lace
tightly rolled over a bottle or stick
Black lace that has lost its frmness
may be dipped into weak gum arabic
water. smoothed and hung TO dry
where IL touches nothing. Passemen-
teries that need a stitch 10 restore their
usefulness may be put in order easily.
Preparation in these small particulars
is time well spent. and saves dollars.
No lace should ever be thrown away
fov u The ground work has worn out
the figure can be appl!qued and be ef-
fective IN many places.
Cheap Innings are really very expen-
s,ve. FOR they win not wear as long as
the material OF the gown. and they
never cling 10 the figure to give the
pretty ht desired Whether IL is well