The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1904-02-19

mentation than women, but their gowns
are complicated with ruchings, pleats
and shirrings and all manner of hand
work.
An example of a girlish ball gown is
OF white silk gauZe over a rose founda-
ton. The skirt is shirred over the hips
In the most bouffant fashion, with little
puffs of gauze between the lines Of
shtrrtng. The bottom Is trimmed with
wreaths Of small roses in relief, made
OF pink gauze, hanging from bowknots
done in lace entredeux. The lace is of
silk, and the foundation shows pink
through It.
A great deal OF thin silk lace used
now is of kind that has been out of
pensive and provides a change.
A great many evening gowns are
trimmed with ruchings, ruchings of
lace, Of taffeta, or of the material of the
dress. A dinner gown Of white benga-
line, which in the thin quality is much
used, Is trimmed with motifs Of white
taffeta ruchings. These are used In in
terlacing scallops with motifs in silk
lace set in. The sleeves are trimmed
with three lace ruchings, the lowest
one heading shaped flounce that COW
ers the elbow, and through the middle
of the ruchtngs is a twist of pale blue
mouSseline velvet, fastening in a little
bow on the outside Of the arm. This
makes particularly pretty sleeve. At
the decolletage there is big blue bow.
Very novel is a white gown Of NOUS
seline de sole, trimmed with two-inch
bands Of white velvet ribbon. The skirt
hangs in natural folds and is trimmed
with up-and-down velvet lines Of diff
ferent lengths, the highest running to
within foot Of the waist. There is the
same trimming on the corsage, some Of
the lines running down from the decol-
letage and some up from the belt.
There is a high belt that mounts in
front little on one side, where there is
bow of yellow satin with one long end
that outlines the top Of the belt to the
back, where 1t makes another bow and
ends. The sleeves are balloon shape
to the elbows, much like the sleeves
worn in 1893 and 1894, save that they
do not rise at the shoulders, and the
armhole Is low.
Sleeves are really changing. The new
spring models show in most cases the
puff at the elbow. An innovation is the
elbow sleeves for visiting costumes, to
be worn with long gloves. One famous
house is showing this sleeve entirely.
In most cases 1t is. made in two puffs
and finished with a ruff1e.
The new models include a great
many pleated skirts, accordion pleats,
box pleats and side pleats. A pretty
model is a gown in red wolfe, trimmed
with silk pipings in the same color.
The skirt Is laid in rather small side
pleats, with the exception of the front
breadth, which is bordered with an
elaborate pattern done in the silk pip
ings. The same trimming is on the
front of the bodice. The belt fastens in
the back with several loops and ends of
silk cord and tassels.
An attractive pOngee silk Is trimmed
with green velvet. The skirt Is hung in
narrow box pleats with side pleats be-
tween, except in front, where there are
three box pleats without the side pleats.
This is rather odd, for most of the
skirts are made with the straight
apron. The skirt is untrimmed, save
for three deep tucks taken in the stuff
near the bottom. There is a high belt
of green velvet with a ooattail attach
ment in the back. The bodice Is shirred
about the shoulders and falls in soft
folds over the belt. 1t turns away be-
low the throat to show chemisette of
embroidered linen, and there are little
revers and the tiniest Of turnover col
lars faced with green velvet.
A gown Of white voile with open work
pastilles scattered over it is trimmed
with bias folds Of white taffeta. There
are five of these about the bottom of
the skirt, the lowest one four inches
deep and the top two inches. The top