The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1904-06-30

Here and there in the crowd one sees
an Indian face. but the native Guarani
is more rare than the negro: and DASH
ing mulattos and negresses are COM
mon-the latter generally extravagant-
" dressed in the extreme Of style. al
most invariably wearing white or pale
blue. those most unsuitable colors which
the race wherever found seem to af-
feet. Sit awhile on one of the benches
and listen to the buzz Of conversation
as the brilliant throng files by. and you
will hear as much French. Italian, Eng
lish and German spoken as Spanish, for
Montevideo is a cosmopolitan town and
fully one-third of its population are for
eigners, You viii readily comprehend
that the social life of the aristocracy is
to investigate the disaster to the Cen
time of it's existence, were graduated
1,O24 students of law, and which was
very gay; that a high degree of educa-
ton is the rule; that money is plenty
easily gained and freely expended; in
short. that society here is fully up to
that of any European city of equal size.
Just outside the plaza groups of hack
ney coaches stand waiting for custo-
mers, who seldom come We viii have
none of them. for in Montevideo it is
eminently the fashion to ride in tram
cars. Street railways gridiron the city
eriss- crossing in every direction, and in
their clean though crowded coaches one
can study Uruguayan life and charac-
ter to much better advantage than
when shut up by oneself in a private
carriage. There are upwards Of sixty
miles of tramway in Montevideo, and
that everybody patronizes them is
proved by the fact that they carry
something over ten million passengers a
year-a high average for a city of only
one hundred and twenty thousand. The
tariff is from two to seven cents, ac-
cording to the length of your trip, and
the spick-and-spa new cars, all made
in New York. are certainly safer and
pleasanter than the jolting, bug-infest-
| ed hacks. There, is but one drawback
to the tram cars. viz, that their jolly
drivers one and all, carry cows horns
and toot to one another continually, ex-
ecuting shrill, prolonged trills with
might and main, and out of pure face
tiousness making din that is almost
deafening.
1t does not take, long in our peregri-
nations to discover that Uruguay's cap
gorgeous coloring, of fine shops and
handsome houses of magnificence,
wealth and luxury, Of noise and clat-
tering hoofs-though nobody hustles
and hurries as in the north, of cheerful
faces and good clothes and contented
, people. who have no acquaintance with
the wolf called poverty that prowls
about the doors OF many of their cous-
ms on the Pacific side OF the continent.
The town is laid out on the usual chess
board plan, with long, broad streets
that run up one hill and down another,
straight as lines can be drawn, with
clusters of telegraph and telephone
wires overhead and double rows of
tramway lines below. Owing to its sit
uation on granite prorsontory, almost
surrounded by water, Montevideo is
admirably drained, we'll ventilated and
constantly washed clean by rains that
fall about seventy-five days out of the
three hundred and sixty-five. The
buildings are all flat-roofed, Of two or
at most three stories, the materials that
enter into their composition being most
| " brick and stucco, tiles, marble. iron
and very little timber.
Thegeneral plan of the private houses
is the Andalusian vestibule. with floor
| of marble and 1adoes of alabaster or
blue and white Talevera tiles, double
doors of massive iron or carved wood,
always wide open by day, disclosing a.
tall inner gate Of open-work, wrought
iron or steel, through which one can
see the flowery patio, embellished with
palms and statuary and fragrant
shrubs growing In boxes; and often a
second and even third rate patio be-
yond, making O. charming VISTA The
frail-looking gate, with its lace-like
pattern, though 1t affords no obstruc
ton to the view, is securely fastened
inside, and to gain admission one must
ring o bell, similar to those on our
doors at home, which summons the SER
want to unlock 1t. The facades Of the
better houses are adorned with much
marble and stucco, and before every
window are iron bars, gilded perhaps
less as secure as those of the common
jail In Montevideo it seems that the
Weather a man Is the more does his
casa run to fancifu establishment in
the way Of tiling ond stucco, the more
deliberately lace-lke is his iron work,
the thicker the gliding upon his gate
land window bars, the softer the tints
|of rose and purple and blue and yellow
upon his outer wells. Many of the ten
cement houses have their vestibules and
patios paved with the knuckIe bones of
sheep, arranged like mosaic work in
fantastic designs; and it is stale old
joke to tell astonished strangers that
those are human bones of people who
were killed In the thirty years war. At
any rate the effect is gruesome in the
extreme, and in walking upon the
bones one feels as If entering a charnel
house Continuing our tour along the
Gale Is de Julio, which is pronounced
by many travellers to be the finest
street in South America, as In the
evening it is one of the most animated,
twenty-six meters wide, lined with
shops filed with rich Partisan goods
we come at length to the Plaza indie
pendencia, (which Is hardly second in
interest to that Of the Constitucien. 1t
is an imposing parallelogram, very long
aned broad, crossd by paved paths
lined with benches, and surrounded by