New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1904-11-18
MUSHROOMS POPULAR.
Interesting Exhibition of Escutent
Fungi in Paris.

arnals of gastronory for the renascence of the
mushroom which was keenly appreciated at
the feests OF Nero. Lucullus ano or Nitelius
the Glutton. The variety Of egg shaped PINK
fungus which still bears the name Amanita
cssarea, mountainous mushroom OF the Ce-
sars, grows abundantly in the forest Of Ram
bou;Ilet, and constitutes succulent dish at the
annual autumnal banquet of the Theological
Society Of France Learned botanists and en-
ferprisng gourmets, working together in friend
w emulation. have aroused the attention of the
public and this week, for the first time, there is
held in France a mushroom exhibition, and
professorship OF mycology has been established
IN the spacious quarters of the Museum and
Laboratory OF Cryptogamy. adjoining the Jar
din des Plantes. No 63 Rue de Button. The well
known scientist Professor Louis Mangn has
been appointed head of this new educational
institution by President Loubet upon the
ommendation of the University OF Paris. and
n Mangin is aided In his work by NJ. N Pa
touillard, one of the foremost mushroom spe-
cialists OF Europe and by Professors Paul Har-
tot and J. Ludwig.
The mushroom exhibition. which the writer
visited yesterday in company with three emil
nent gourmets. who also members OF the
now influential Society OF Mythology, contains.
neatly presented in white porcelain dishes, up
ward Of four hundred different species Of mush-
virons OF Paris and about half Of which are
edible Mushroom eating has indeed this sea-
son become a fashionable fad. Recognized
princes Of the palate, the Marquis du Lau, the
Prince de Rohan, Marquis de Beauvoir, whose
chefs are quite skilled the Vattels and
Gounes OF former days, pride themselves upon
setting before their guests rare and dainty
dishes OF mushrooms. Culinary artists put in
most craditable appearance at the mushroom
show. 1t interesting to listen TO the dis
cussions 20 the qualities and fiavOrs OF the
appetizing fungi. Prominent among the edible
varieties is the famous Trumpet of Death. the
botanical name Of which is Craterellus cornu-
copiodes. The Trumpet of Death is in shape
and size like the morning glory flower. It's
color is truffie black, and the inside is powdered
with spots of gold. It is delicious when fried
with butter. 1t is highly aromatic, and its taste
may be described as that of the field mush-
room raised TO the nth power.
In spite OF fits ominous name. II is great IA
voTite IN Paris. and a well known American
resident has invented a new cocktail composed
OF Holland gin with a dash OF oxygenated alb
sinthe infused with the juice Of the Trumpet of
Death mushroom the violet-back shreds of
which float gracefully in the captivating and
appetizng beverage. The Trumpet of Death
mushroom is also keenly appreciated when
cooked IN the interior of an omelette, which 1t
impregnates with most delicate fragrance.
Another highly esteemed edible fungus is the
Ffstu-ina hepatcus. popularity known the
beefsteak mushroom. 1t is found along the
Seine Valley. and thrives abundantIy in the
forest Of Bizy. near Vernon. IT grows at the
foot Of oak trees. It IS oval in shape and about
fifteen twenty inches long. It is of a dark.
meaty color, and is highly palatable when
grilled and served with salt pepper and mus
tard. like n beefsteak. which It closely resem-
bes in taste well in appearance. Several
fine specimens Of the dry black mushroom that
grows the trunks and branches of feed
beeches attracted the attention of the epicures
This fungus, the correct name for which is the
Bulgaria inquinans, was supposed to be poison
until the year 1915. when the Cossacks ate
It by the bucketful IN France during the occu-
patton or the allied armies after Waterloo It
Is excellent fried in butter, with dash of lemon
Juice
The delicate white and salmon colored Hyd-
rum repandum. commonly known the cats
tongue. IS most palatable and succulent when
stewed gently in butter with slight stirring of
-four 1t should simmer for two three hours.
when it makes a first rate dish eaten with
toasted bread. or served as a sauce for brook
trout. The Lactarius piperatus, called by the
peasants the white COW mushroom because OF
the abundance Of white milky Juice that it ex-
udes when pressed between the fingers makes
2 most enjoyable dish when stewed with butter
Another delicate fungus is the Lactarius sub
dulcis, commonly supposed 10 be poisonous but
the writer has eaten it profusely in the last
fortnight 1t IS prudent. however, TO boil It
slowly for half hour. then throw away the
water, and, after grilling it over a brisk char
coal fire. eat 1t with butter and salt.
The Hygrophorus lirnacinus. hitherto regarded
as poisonous, is unctuous Juicy fungus, hav-
%f,ao 5o os -vyoTa4 h.
IN company with several epicures, the writer
has psrtaken of it freely, chopped up and stirred
with scrambled eggs. 1t grows near Vernon, is
about five inches in height. is of silver gray
tint but It must not be COMPOUNDED with the
Hygrophorus eburnus. which It resembles. but
which inparts smell of caterpillars and is
noxious. Needless to say, the popular yell
low and gray mushroom common in North
America and Europe, is well represented
,n the exhibition This fungus is known IN
Germany the pfenerling and in France
as the chanterelle. II is yellow and gray in
color and has the shape OF a drinking CUP.
whence its botanical name Of CantharelIus ci
Darius. The French cepes, 41nown in America
and England as the Esculent boletus and which
during the present month are being consumed
by the hundreds OF thousands in Partisan res
taurarts, where they are usually served with a
garlic seasoned Bordelaise sauce are well pre-
scented at the Mushroom Show The white
boule de neige fungus which forms a classical
dish In London grill rooms, where It is known
the horse mushroom. but the correct name
OF which is the Psalliota lAgaricus1 arvensis
figures prominently in the show. The com
mon French field fungus Psall!ota [AgaricusI
campestris. which is the only mushroom that
so far known, be artihcially cult
waited, has less taste than the varieties al