The sun., 1904-12-18

the sleeve down to the desired length.
One variation upon this idea is shown in
a velvet visiting frook among the sketches,
the upper sleeve being Of exaggerated full
ness, and shirred down its inside seam,
while long cuff OF lace ends at the bottom
In frill falling over the band, and at the
top in wider frill oflace standing up against
the velvet upper sleeve.
This velvet frock is, by the way, an ex-
excellent model, chic without being fussy.
The perfectly plain skirt-and the velvet
skirts are prone TO plainness in the best
models-is bordered by fur at the bottom
and fur trims the pointed bodice on either
side Of full lace vest This same idea is
cal ried out in redingote costume and in a
Princess grown.
The genuine redingote, very long and
ample Of skirts, close at the waist and broad
at the shoulders, is slightly more in evi-
dence as the winter days go by, but one
can still say that our fashion leaders are
not enthusiastic over it, and one sees it
more often in ready made costume worn
by a would-be fashionable than upon the
most modish women This does not, how
ever, alter the fact that when correctly
made it is an elegant garment and that it
Is very much worn by Partisan e.egantes.
Some OF the smartest Of the imported red
ingotes are very full in both body and skirt
with the fulness plated in to fit the waist
snugly. and are worn either with or with
out belt or girdle.
Luxury in coats and wraps has made
tremendous strides and evening cloaks are
much to the fore just at present. as accom-
paniments to the evening frocks in prepara-
lit F.
one as ornate or as simple as taste may
dictate and purse allow but some Of the hand
some ones are not remarkably ornate.
There is, for example, the long cape
Of velvet, slit up the sides to point be-
tween elbow and shoulder so that the arms
may pass through. but hanging in per-
fectly straight lines. 1t was Of velvet in
superb quality.
1t was bordered on all its edges by a
line Of real sable. 1t was lined with the
softest and handsomest white brocade,
but it was a serviceable evening wrap in
comparison with the elaborate confeo-
| tons of chiffon and lace and embroidery
affected by many women.
Mention has already been made Of the
graceful cloth cloaks in Arabian burnoose
| form and in kimono shape, and there are
innumerabe styles of broadcloth capes,
long, enveloping, warm, light in color and
handsomely lined. but little trimmed, and
perfectly suited to youthful wearers as well
as to their elders.
As for the silk cloaks, they are legion, and
some Of the newest and handsomest are in
the new faille, wonderfully soft and lus-
trous, yet heavy enough to be substantial
and durable. No plain silk in the market
has richer effect than this faille, and 1t
gives excellent service.
The winter tafetas are used. but do not
look warm enough for attractive winter
cloalxs, no matter how warmly interlned
they NAV be- and the soft satins and all
the lightweight silks of high lustre are
pressed into service for cloaks much plated
and beflounced and shirred and corded.
The shot satins In the lighter oolorings
are exceedingly effective for the evening
cloak, and velvet and fur trimmings add
touches Of warmth and richness to even
the sheerest Of the shimmering silken coats.
Look, for instance. at the sketch Of a coral
pink faille coat whose straight, full folds
are finished at the bottom by several lace
iounoes. headed by waved bands Of velvet.
The huge sleeves are formed OF lace frills
separated by velvet and fur bands, and
velvet bands form yoke running to a point
in front where are set large cocardes Of
velvet. from which fall groups Of fur tails.
There are. too. among the cuts, one of a
satin coat in oyster white, with rich trim
mings of lace and fur, and another of an
empire coat in supple velvet OF the new
yellow which approaches what we once
knew as old gold hue especially beautiful
in velvet and in combination with dark
fur and lace.