New-York tribune., 1904-08-07

with reason for gown. accessories hat shoes
az OF white. make a most becoming frame It Is
me face too highly colbred that needs 70 dread
the contrast Of pure white costume When Louis
AF was king and Madame Pompadour ar5irrasz
OF the modes. it is said that women resorted 10
cupptng to be able TO stand the dead white toilets
that the fair favorite had made the mode. For
ouIom. high-colored women a strong color IN the
way OF hat trimming or cravat is necessary.
There is lot Of new white stufs: soma which
are as heavy as linen are in reality SO soft that
tAey may be shirred TO advantage. \ good many
OF the beach frocks are made after ideas that
promise 10 prevail IN the autumn models In mos+
cases the sleeve is set IN on a level with the
shoulders. and often to rise q triHe Some Of the
white linen and crash gowns have sleeves shirred
into the armhoes. and YET the gowns seem 20
Iaunder we'll at least no one wears a gown that
Is not the perfection o. freshness. II would na
misleading TO say that the dropping shoulder had
entirely disappeared or TO affirm that the high cuff
runs always TO the elbow.
Here are Two morning gowns. representing diff
ferent IDEAS. One is Of a white mummy fabric a
cotton stun made simply, but perfectly in regard
TO cut ana work The skirt has q straight IA rrovr
front breadth, but on the sides and IN the back
Il is laid in narrow box pIeats stitched down for
certain distance. The blouse is stitched in small
box pleats the chest. The sleeve is sarred to
give little rise et the shoulder, and falls into a
close cuff that TO the elbow although il bags
a trihe over the elbow. The cuff is decorated with
stitched bands running UP 70 the elbow and finish
ing IN points which are embroidered IN rhuesoues
The pleats on the blouse and the skirts have the
ends of the stitching finished in the same way This
ldea could be duplicated with applications of Irish
lace but the hand work the stuff is one Of the
nice touches characterizing smart gowns made Of
inexpensive material.
The other gown is Of a finely checked navy b1,e
and white linen. The skirt which clears the
sT9la2; hangs IN tive easez cut IN sceHops over
S Il1-S1 e. caIds OF White pug The short boIero IS
a. ylle -='llletaSe ana down the fronts There
yoke descends over the shoulders giving t5a ans s
close turned up cuffs placed little aboTe 5.'I the i
wrists, and little straight cuffs Of p!que extend
,,,35 sIme white gowns are worn with the dearest
4I.s coats or colored cloth They represent only
snort polero in front. with revers and pointed
hsvs r5.-55 24l N the back they
sde pleated skirt and plain shrtwaist. is most at
a. dinner I'm a5 I5faS a. OF H., ms ,s sGTL +
most worderfJI White gowns Iiap one sees ne ne
lingerie order, with trailing skirts but more are OF
soft silks silk muslins ana laces A gown OF white
vol.e Niron has the skirt 10 the Knees of rufies
S.f9 SI5 * 56iTEgd d0Tn the front and has deep
Ltl.e TlDnon romp3ns About The shoulders is
.ai!s on the bust. and lace aounces fan over the
I-A eLooW sleeves The neck IS simply cut out
a white taffeta gown is crisp with many pinked
r1tes. here motifs Of Irish lace set in above
the rfies and no skirt is shirred about the hips.
bon The bodice falls slightly over this. and is
trimmed with points of lace standing up from the
belt The neck g Shirrcd. q little decolete. with
falling friA ot lace and the small smpiecement
and choker are Of OpenwOrk gold thread lace. which
makes "a fitting background for many strings OF
pearls.
Gowns not extremely decollete. but cut out a
little. are worn at dinner and at the Casino with
hats Hats are not only lovely but most original,
and far more startling than those the races
and out-of-door fetes OF Paris few weeks ago.
lie grand chic seems 20 lie in the OF the
broad brim; il may turn up extravsgantly on one
side. or u may roll up on both. or 10 may follow
series Ot uuCEatIlE The high.
crown is a conspicuous feature. but one that can
not be universal for IL only suits woman not too
short and not too tall This description would seem
10 the Of medium size. bur IL really
means The woman ~ right proportions. the woman
not too common. But clever nodiste give
I appearance OF height 10 crown when its actual
inches are not many. narrow crown Will always
look higher. naturally, than low one
A pretty lingerie hat has the wide brim lined
with rows ~ tiny pink roses set lace shir-
rings. Another lingerie hat has for brim a Tuffie
falling slightly over the face, with crown eucir-
CIel with a wreath OF white and pale green roses.
Some lovely straw hats with low, Curving brius
trimmed with a single rose and scarf OF lace
chiffon. The rose IS largo and perfect in every
detail