Lewiston evening teller. [volume] (Lewiston, Idaho) 1903-1911, 1904-05-07

NEW YORK. May Word comes ,
from Paris, the source of feminine !
fashions. that the fullness of the skirt
has not yet reached it's limit. There |
seems to be a tendency to expand the
volume of the skirts. to the utter de-
spair of all stout women. 1t seems,
after all, that those who predicted.
when the skirts began to become full
Ter, that the new fashion would not
last long and would certainly, not go
beyond a most moderate limit, were
mistaken. At first the skirts merely
showed n suggestion of fullness by
fiaring at the bottom. After a while
the zone of fullness began to extend
to the region of the knees and step by
step the fullness assembled to the hip
region Now. SO 1t is reported from
Paris, there is every reason to believe.
that the process of gradual expansion
will not stop at the lower part of the
hip, but that. after a while. the fullness
will begin right at the waistband.
Stout women are at a great disad-
vantage in following the new fashion.
Even at the time when the fullness did
not reach above the knee a short.
stout woman, with modish skirts would
resemble nothing more closely than
big bell, with it's rim widely curved
out. What are they going to do when
full skirts. with the fullness begin
ming at the waistband. are the style?
They will have but two alternatives.
They have the choice between follow
ing the fashion and wearing skirts that
make them look as big and clumsy as
a barrel, or sacrifice stylishness for the
sake of securing more graceful ap-
pearance.
The slender and graceful woman. on
the other hand. could not possibly find
any style more becoming to her than
the skirts of the present fashion. The
effect of the graceful lines formed by
the judiciously full skirts upon slend-
err woman is exquisite and far prettier
than anything shown for many years.
There is however, also an economic
side to the new style. 1t is more ex-
pensive than the style in vogue two
or three years ago. when fashion de-
creed that the skirts must be almost
skin tight. For the new style skirt
a great deal more material is required
| than for the skirt Of two years ago
| and that alone has caused a consider
able increase in the cost of dresses
But that IL not all. The trimming and
characterization Of skirts Is infinitely
more elaborate than it used to be and
as many OF the materials used. like
lace. are quite expensive. the large in
crease in the amount Of material re.
Iquired for trimming under the new
.regime. means \, corresponding in
crease in the cost Of modern skirts.
Some Of the latest models imported
from Paris are designed to produce
regular bell effect. They are fuller n
the hips than below the hips and drawn
in markedly Just above the knees. mar
. ing out again below the knees. reach
. Ing their greatest fullness, ut the bot
tom There Is a decided tendenc!
toward introducing odd and pictur
esQue. sometimes even bizarre effects
!, suit vary greatly- between the intro
i. duction OF unusual materials. the use o
!. bizarre forms and the employment o
y methods of ornamentation original an
quaint Some of the costumes are act
ually dowdy. Many OF the costume
contain peculiar features OF styles be
!. longing to various periods and whic
:, do not always harmonize very well.
must be said that the result OF thos
combinations is not always happy an
. artistic and frequently betrays decided
!. ly bad taste.
One Of the most striking features
the fact that in the trimming and orna
mentation of these modern dresse
every resource of the dressmaker's al
is drawn upon and sometimes doze
= different means are used in combine
ton. There may be insertions. han
y. embroidery. laces, ribbons, corded gait
" erings frills rulings. gatherings. an
! stitches of every kind and descriptio
employed in combination on one ar
the same skirt. That the effect of
skirt thus overturned and overcome
mented is not always pleasing will NJ
be surprising. OF course, similar cas-
were by no means impossible with II
former styles, but there can not be Il
least doubt that the extravagan
which has ruled in the domain
fashion for over year now, HI
greatly increased the tendency to e
cesses in trimming and ornamentil
dresses.
During the season just ended We
r. vets of all kinds were rather an II
portant factor among the materis
used for fashionable costumes. The
were a few new kinds of exquisite tie
y ture in the market. besides the regul
IL No aa!ities ard there were also few M
u -llcnlare in some of the special qualiti
of light velvets. The demand WAS u
b Iususfly great and there is good reas
10 believe, that there Will be even
greater demand for that charming m
terial next season. 1t seems that
lours chiffon and velours gauffre "
1 10 faNnral