The San Francisco call., 1904-10-23

II
row, dressed in gown which
bore unmistakably the earmarks Of the
French couturiere.
Yet il was made of serge. Serge. that
old material, that common cloth, has
come in style again. and very neat and
nstty il looks. The finer qualities of
serge rival much more expensive goods,
while the heavy. coarse qualities look
not unlike the imported winter cloths
that are so fabulously dear.
This serge gown was cunningly braid
ed II was made in that ubiquitous
style Of Eton and skirt with a shirt
waist Of silk of a different shade and
material. The Eton was short, box
plated in the back and rounded in the
front. The sleeves were nothing more
than two big scallops of braided cloth
over silk undersleeves, finished with
braided turnover cuff of silk at the
wrist.
One must b distinct and individual
in ones fall gown. One cannot be COM
monplace, for the fashions will not per-
nit. Indeed. individuality is the strong
point Of the seasons dresses. Each one
seems to be very different from the
others.
It is once more the fashionable thing
to stroll in Central Park and very pref
ty afternoon costumes are donned for
this purpose. They are by no means
tailor-made dresses. but smart day
gowns with plenty Of lace trimmings.
yet showing signs Of fall.
One dress was in lightweight cloth
with the -oke laid in alternate shir-
rings and bands Of lace. A little dark
brown silk was worked in the yoke in
the shape Of pipings and narrow shir-
rings.
The sleeves. If you will believe it,
were Of a different material. They were
made Of brown liberty and they con-
sisted Of lengthwiSe puffings put to-
gether vita. white silk cordings. IL
looks as though the contrasting sleeve
would return
The Deep Canvas YolIes.
The heavy canvas yoke is quite a
pretty feature Of early fall. It is made
Of cream colored canvas cut in little
scallops around the edge, for il is an
overhanging yoke finished like a cape
collar. The little scallOps are bound
with silk. ard each is worked with a
little flower. a big scaIlop of the can
epaulette. This style can be recon-
mendcd TO any one who is making over
an old dress OF planning new one.
Skirts both for day and for dinner
are trimmed very plainly. 1t is a sea-
son Of almost deadly simplicity, but
this simplicity costs heavily. It means
that materials must be very handsome,
and that they must be beautifully made
and exquisiteiy fitted. And. also, that
they must be well carried, as the Eng
lsh say.
And speaking Of the English it may
be remarked that Londoners are copy
ing American fashion in dress. There
are many things that are distinctly
American, and these the Londoners
eagerly grasp. 1t is TO America that
the English women go for their shirt
waist fashions, far their sailors and
ready-to-wear hats. And it is to this
country that they come for their neat
shoes. for their boufrant petticoat
styles, and for the very handsome nov
city goods which the American looms
excel in making.
So, If London and Paris are ahead in
some things. 1t can be truthfully stated
that there are many styles in which
America leads the world.
One Of the best of the gowns OF the
year is one that was made in a Fifth
avenue establishment for a woman who
goes out a great deal. 1t is a winter
calling dress, made in a shade of brown
known as walnut brown. The skirt
has a very deep hem and, above the
hem, there are four bands of velvet Of
different widths. These are sewed on
along the upper edge only. The bands
vary from one TO four inches. Another
gown had bands ST | wider. The waist
OF this gown was a marvellous BLOUSE
falling In a great puff over wide VEL
vet girdle. The front was open TO show
q vest all of canary thread lace
So many gowns are trimmed with
velvet bands headed with a little gold
cording. And each hand is treated a
little differently from the one above 1t.
The gold braid is put on straight, or
in swirls, or in scallops, or in a con-
Fentional Grecian key design. This
gives the gown a very handsome ap-
pearance.
Skirts Both Long and Short.
Nearly all the skirts are made short
# intended for street wear, though
here. again, one comes to the dissent
ing vote. There are women who will
not wear the walking skirt, and for
such women there is no skirt exceut
the one that is Of round length sweep
ing the floor in the back and more
than touching in the front These
skirts are undeniably elegant. And
as they must be lifted from the ground
there comes the petticoat question
egain.
The new petticoats are very bouf-
FAINT TO make the skirts set out In
deed. many OF them are so full and
so abundantly ruffied as to look as
though they were crinolined. They
set out In a veritable cascade Of ruff
hes and lace flounces.
And. speaking OF cascades and Grim
olines, one comes TO the question OF
lining the skirt. Shall 1t be crinolines
or not? Several OF the new skirts