The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-01-24

trimming IS little I'm evidence, but there
often Is more of effect than OF real jacket.
This is especially true OF elaborate gowns.
Tailors on the contrary, use the sure
enough boIero. we'll clear of the waist and
accompanied usually by a wide girdle belt.
Most OF these jackets are loose, and indi-
Vidualty Is sought for w their embellish-
ment. Some cut away at the bottom
In front to show tight wastcoat. but
more often there are tab ends In front.
These may be round or pointed. All are
short rarely do they reach below the
giroles lowest edge.
Tailor styles surely are becoming more
severe. II oSTess has been making slowly
i'm this direction all winter. What checked
the change IN standards was the impera-
tive need of maintaining variety in the
field This wasn't easy when plain suits
We're demanded. but the tailors have COM
piled ably. Three suits that were illus
trative OF what skillful makers have ac-
complished are put here by the artist. For
the rrst. brown cloth, with brown silk
blouse: for the second, black cloth, with a
dash of oriental embroidery at the neck
and for the last suit. purple cloth, with but
ton trimming and cluny lace vest. None
of these was I'm the fancy tailor suit way
yet they were unlike in all but this sim
plicity.
Skirts are the most complicated feature
of the newer model gowns. and that's not
saying that the bodices are simple. Bod
ices must have one feature in common. and
That is dropping lines at the top. but be-
low the belt dressmakers seem determined
10 give each woman a design of her own
If only she will pay for it, In all the more
advanced of these designs there is q Ger
tain tendency TO freakiShness An extreme
of fancifulneSs seems to have been sought
for in some of the models. and in others
plain common sense appears To have had
mighty little influence. The fullness OF the
lower portions is marked. even by com
parison with what has ruled of late. and
foot-fiare is most pronounced. Length is
extreme. too. Trains and tails are undi-
minished, and If there is any change in
front, it has added length there. especially
i'm dressy skirts. In such stylish women
of pillows much as putting tugboat piles
up the water about Its stem.
Separate dressy waists are interestingly
diversified Yokes. bertha effects and deep
collars dominate their trimmings, the lat
ter being especially numerous and hand
some. Collars run much 10 tab finish the
deep round collar being much less worn
, than III was. BPrthas are remarkably va
ried, and akin to them are SNOWY shoulder
pieces fitted closely to the shoulders round.
The trimming of these waists is elaborate in
the extreme. and in them are as ornate
and complicated sleeves as are to be found
anywhere. Laccs are used very freely, and
cluny seems TO be the favorite. Abundant
! i'm white or black. ii also is used in tints,
for dyed laces appear on these waists,
both in those that are all of one color and
ON those that show two shades of the same
color. Pendant ornaments are standard
and are a simple pair, or are scattered
pretty much all over the waist. Medallion
trimmings arc employed with as much bold
ness If they were entirely new. They
of silk velvet. edged showily and
often ornamented with rich embroidery.
Huge ones appear on some waists. eight of
them with edges touching filling the waist
at the shoulder line French knots and
fancy stitching are still used. and there is
much trimming Of tiny buttons.
| New York, Jan. %.