The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-09-04

The shirtwaist suit with its new 1880 smartness is going to be the most pop ular early fall dress. It will be made with the exaggerated crinoline skirt, and, alas and alack! with an actual boned petticoat to keep 1t bouffant, or with the simplest Quaker skirt, Just enough full- ness to be modest and not enough to be an expense and burden.
 In fact you can vary this easily made model to meet any social occasion that arises in most very charmingly man. aged American homes. It will be made or yoile, canvas or silk, all the new weaves of raw silk and in the new and lovely changeable silk known as pellet de soie. And the silk s.irtwaist suit will be the most popular of all, in spite of the fact that since spring it has been decidedly in the bad graces of the fashionable girl. You see it made too big a bid last spring 1 for popularity and suddenly. as often happens to people, found itself just com mon instead.
 There were too many sales of cheap silk suits; they got to have bargain counter, hurried look, and were all but I given away with groceries, and then nat 1 urally fell into dispute. But the new I silks have given these suits new lease l of favor These lustrous, changeaple fabrics are quite different from the old "sheeny" silks. They are in two shades, l say brown on one side and yellow on | the other, and the yellow shades through 1 gold to deep brown and the brown III | vivid light changes to yellow and cream
 -sJ use. so that suit can be made up in | a combination of tones as well as sheens, or one side can be used entirely. Thus you buy your trimmings by gettin an extra | yard of dress goods.
 All the brown shades will be most popular this fall, especially in combina- ton with yellow, orange, blood orange, flaming yellow, burnt orange, deep nas- turtium and marigold tones.
 1 The loveliest pellet de soie often shades through half dozen shades, pale red and yellow to the richest golden brown. And so fashionable is this color scheme that all sorts of dress accessories can be had to match Plumes, wells. ribbons, chiffons, faces, aigrettes. velvets and flowers all are colored to make perfect this gorgeous fall color scheme.
 And other color combinations are pro vided for women who cannot wear brown l and there are many of us, red brun- ettes' and blue blonds"-blue and red, blue and black, dark red and black, diff ferent hues of green and green and blue, violet not at all. but pale blue very much in combination with black.
 The changeable silks have the quality of the soft twilled tafreta, are durable and rich.
 The raw silks, rajah, kinu, pongee and hamomen, are still shown in the dull vegetable dyes, brown more than others, and deep gray dull green and black. Ii is the best sortof material for the very full skirts. while the moderately full de- signs carry more effectively.
 For afternoon or any rather dressy wear these suits have the blouse made large enough to wear over a fine shirt waist of lawn or silk, and lawn waists will be worn late into the fall. The blouses are full. front and back, and end in a wide girdle and the sleeves are enormous, either to the elbow to show the full lawn sleeves, or long with deer cuffs, but no colonial sleeve frill, moi one in any sort of waist. They, too have overreached their popularity.
 For simpler wear and always for out doors. the shirtwaist is a shirtwaist And it is very plainly made. The from with groups of plaits extending out ovel the broad shoulders, or plain with just