The San Francisco call., 1904-03-27

The skirt Is plain. but the coat II very
elaborately trimmed.
And there are automobils shirt waist
suits These consist OF a linen skirt,
beautifully shaped and OF walking
length The skirt Is trimmed with
strapped and stitched bands With this
skirt there is an automobile coat OF the
same material. usually OF linen, with
strappings and with wide sleeves. The
sleeves and collar are more elaborately
trimmed than is customary with auto
mobile coats. for they are bordered
with wide lace and are trimmed with
neat. compact trimmings. such as hard
French knots. buttons, wheel stitch en-
broidery and braid.
Then. in the list OF summer suits.
there must not be forgotten the golf
shirt waist suit for amateurs. This Is
made with a weIl-shaped instep skirt,
usually devoid Of trimming at all, un-
less one except a very slender piping.
The coat is short and straight, a Httls
English coat, trimmed with stitched
bands There are conspicuous pearl
buttons upon II and It buttons to the
throat
And still another variety OF shirt
waist suit is the Russian blouse suit.
which is a two piece suit and, like
many others. requires a shirt waist in
addition. The Russian blouse shirt
waist suit is made with an instsp slxirt,
with Russian blouse waist which ls
buttoned down the front and can be
taken Off. and with a shirt waist
The blouse part IS slipped on like a
coat and for summerinss Is carried
over the arm.
And, in the list OF summer suits, one
must not forget the Eton shirt waist
suit, which consists of a skirt aud an
EtOn jacket The Eton is built OF linen
or canvas or heavy cotton stuff and IS
slipped on over the shirt waist. which
Is OF any pretty material and color,
usually white, for womankind runs to
white this year.
The Linen Stoles and Collars.
Very important IN the list OF summer
fashions are the linen stoles and ths
linen collars, for these are worn over
the shirt waists and they take the
place OF the very fancy shirt waist to
a great extent Wide linen collars. as
deep as the shoulders, and colIareetes
that are rounding and made like caDes
are worn. These are cut upon the
most approved models and are charm
ing with summer suits.
The stoles are also handsome and
dressy and, to make stole OF the drsss
material is very little work or extra
expense. The prettiest OF these stoles
are in the shape Of round collars. with
long ends attached IN front, and are
TO be thrown around the neck and
caught under the chin with a set OF
cords and tassels-
The wide silk collars. adjustable and
made OF silk and lace, will be worn
with the summer suits and some OF
them are exceedingly decorative They
are made after different patterns and
all OF them tmpart quite a dressy air %
any gown
One Of the prsttfest OF silk collars n
cut with the Gibson shoulders 1t is
very wide upon the shoulders and ex-
tends out over the arm hole, stand
ing out almost like an epaulette. This
style Of collar, the Gibson collar, fs CUT
round and is as deep IN the back az
in front 1t is made OF silk and sur
rounded by stitchery and embroidery.
Lace Is also inset. The edge OF this
collar is cut in scroll shape and dn-
ished with a stiff lace, so stiff as to be
almost wiry.
One OF the distinguishing features Of
this new Gibsonian silk shoulderette Is
Its stiffness. The silk does not lie
around the neck and shoulders IN soft,
slinky fashion. but sets out very SMART
Iy. To make it still stiffer II IS en-
broidered with very heavy embroid-
cry and trimmed with a lace that IN
wiry in texture
There is a very stiff lace, whiclr 10
stiffened by special process before 1t Is
made into Eton jackets. These little
jackets, which look as though they
were made OF hOrsehair. are cut very
short between the shoulders. There ars
arm holes and the front OF the jacket Is
left oDen- The whole thing could be
rolled and slipped into a napkin ring.
Silk flowers are sometimes inset This
jacket trims uD an old silk waist OF =
shabby lawn waist most admirably.
The vast majority OF summer skirts
are full skirts. They are made with
shirred YOkes and with shirred hips.
These shirrings can be so arranged as
TO trim the skirt, for If full and hand
somely treated they form IN themselves
a trimming for the skirt Three shir-
rings. each as heavy as rope. trimmed
the yoke OF a pretty piazza gown made
OF linen batiste.
The soft blossom colOrs are selected
for the dainusst OF piazza gowns. and
guens the blossom colors the deem rosa