Arizona republican. [volume] (Phoenix, Ariz.) 1890-1930, 1904-01-03
WHERE JAPAN AND RUSSIA SEEK
SUPREMACY.

Seoul, the capital of Chosen, is built
amidst a network of hills eighteen
miles from the sea. 1t is an ancient
walled city, fortified in the strongest
way by smells that would drive
any but an asiatic army forth
with into the ocean. 1t is poor
in appearance, but rich in fleas.
On autumn nights tigers frequently
contest the right of way with belated
pedestrians, and this is the chief rea-
son why one has the entire street to
oneself in a moonlight stroll after
eight O'Clock. Metaphorically, one
can scarcely see the town for the bald
Dubious and bullet-headed Buddhist
priests who fatten on the superstition
of the Populace, and lead licentious
lives in adjacent monasteries. Barring
an occasional court function marked
by street professions, Seoul is trium-
phantly devoid of sights interesting to
the traveller. The streets lack entirely
those picturesque characteristics Of
Chinese or japanese thOrcughfare, and
a vista across the Korean housetOps is
one of appalling mOnctony. one seeks
in vain for attractive souvenirs. In
the small shops of Seoul, japanese
beer, matches, cigarettes, and cheap
crockery form the chief stock in trade,
while long stemmed Korean pipes,
and metal-banded Korean knives
are offered in the more pretentious
shops. Here, likewise, can be had the
really unique Korean fans, made of
silk or paper, finished in oil and COW
cred with curious native designs. These
fans are dipped in water before they
are used, and the little breeze prCduc-
ed by them is astonishingly cool.
The women of the community are
vOluble and viXenish, and ever ready
to slap 4 handful of stars in to the
eyes of a husband-Or into those of a
timid and shrinking tourist-should
the occasion arise. The women of the
upper class are vigorously excluded
from masculine eyes, and a hearty
vote Of thanks is due the committee
who fathered this unwritten law. The
dainty little japanese musmee, teeter-
ing along in sandals or on wooden
geta, is a genuine relief to the eye
after a view of the uncomely Korean
female, and it is a pleasing reflection
that Nippon is slowly but surely
spreading her standard over the Her
NIT Realm.
Until Korean boys are married and
knot. their hair is worn girl fash
ion in twin plaits down their backs.
Sc much do they resemble girls that
it is sometimes difficult to determine
the sex, and one is oftentimes un-
commonly surprised to observe what
he is positive are two girls sprawling
and viciously fighting in a Korean
street.
The wall surrounding Seoul from
which kites are ever flying, is but a
pocket edition of the great Chinese
wall that leads down to the sea at
Shanhaikwan. Piercing this Korean
copy are the city gates-piCturesque
passage ways-which are promptly
and irrivocably closed with the setting
of the sun. The West Gate will be en-
tered by the tourist on reaching the
capital from Chemulpo, and should he
come TO the outside of this but a min
ute after the sun has disappeared be- !
hlnd the horizon, and the big belI' |
has doomed its mournful warning note. |
he Is elected to camp in the open until !
Phoebus has cycled round the world on
the equatorial path. If he reach the |
gate five minutes before it closes on |
its groaning hinges, he will witness a |
sight that will almost repay him for
the toilsome trip from the coast.
Korean sampans ply between the
hatoba Qanding place. and the ship
ping In the haFbor, and for ten Jan
ahese cents, eight brass cash, or a F.,