The San Francisco call., 1904-02-14

ona terv effective way to use very
narrow gold braid is to Dorder closn .-..
panels with it. These are useo 10 LII m
skirts and also to strap waists AZ AZ
-fust along the edge there can be placeu
q verv narrow border of gold bralo.
Every three or four inches there can %
planted a brilliant little gold button;
The hest dressmakers are actua4y
copying the military coats, as Tar - o.,
trimmings are concerned, ana you WI
notice. if you study the braided ue
signs that they are patterned after
those seen in the coats of the mllltld-
Yet, while the military trimmings AZ. a.
In style. the military coats are not.
Collars are not as severe as LnlII11-S
collars, and the sleeves or spri1s
certainly not military sleeves: On tnS
contrary, they are large and loose Ano
many OF them are built on the gran
ny" order, which shows a very larss.
very loose sleeve, almost WltnouI
shape. vet growing steadily larger TO-
ward the wrist and finally enoinB IN =
cuff at the hand. This is far removed
from militarism, for II IS pureiJ A'
mime in itsstendency.
The visiting cuff Is a Joy forever. a.
long as the gown lasts. 1t Is novel N
its styIe. being of many unique shapes.
not at all like the stiff. long, tight eun
sleeves.
One of the prettiest Of shapes Is tns
cuff. which is slashed at the BACK
with the opening finished In Two
rounding corners. 1t IS a tailor u1ads
cuff with a lingerie cuff below X
ITO make the prettiest cun OF tns
year, tailor made cuff, says MOD
iste, take a stiff. tight, round cun.
about six inches deep, and Mt u 70 ens
arm. Do not have IL too close ana DO
not slope it. Its shape must Dc n
straight as a linen cuff
Now take this cuff and slash IL as
the back cutting It almost through.
Round off the corners. line the GUN
with silk and finish with fancy but
tons, putting four along the opening.
This kind of a cuff is becoming to
the hand and more. 1t gives an op-
portunity for the wearing OF knife
plated ruffies that will fall down over
the hand. These ruffies are nntSned
with lace or are OF chiffon, big, loose.
fluffy and beautiful"
Another very pretty cuff Is one
that flares. This cuff, which is almost
as deep as the elbow, is open In
bell shape. This bell is lined with ruf-
fies of lace. One of these bell cufrS
was lined with ruff1es Of taffeta with
their edges pinked. Another was lined
with silk ruffies. which were bordered
with fringe. There are many ways
of trimming these inner Innings or
cuffs.
sleeve that is beautiful in It's sim
plicity is made in melon fashion, with
all Of the melon falling below the arm.
1t is stiffened and baggy in its ten
dency, instead of hanging limp This
sleeve was finished with a deep cuff
of lace, which was transparent and
trimmed with bands of taffeta and
satin, one very glossy and the other
very dull.
Fitting the Spring Gown.
1t seems almost as though the
spring gown were not to be fitted at
all. for all of its tendencies are to-
ward loOSeneSS- The waists are
bloused in the front. The skirts are
full and are cut in sweeping fashion,
and the sleeves are large and very
much inclined to take on melon, gran
ny, blouse and drooping shapes.
Where, then, is the fit of the gown?
To this a certain clever dressmaker
replied: '@The fit of the gown, the very
test of it's elegance. is found in the set
of the shoulders and in the way the
belt is managed If the shoulders are
fitted nicely and are made to slope, IL
the armholes are low and elegantly
managed, so that they do not interfere
with the low shoulder effect, and IL the
yoke and stock are well fitted, the
waist is pretty sure to be elegant.
''The fit of the belt and the waist line
is another thing and difficult matter
when rough materials are employed.
And with spring there will be a new lot
of rough goods, tweedS, Irish suitingS
and all sorts. These, many OF them.
are stretchy in their nature. and to
manage them well around the hips is
direct art. The canvas gowns. too.
are on the way and by spring you Will
see many a canvas dress figured with
a little figure of satin.
"And, speaking Of the figure OF satin,
do you know that the summer silks
are nearly all to have little brocaded
figures in them, and that the summer
taffetas are positively glorious with
their little satin brocades and their lit
tie twisted silk designs?
Particularly are the black taffetas
admirable in this respect, and FOR 80
cents or so a yard one can get the
neatest little taffeta gowns. IN dull
black. These have glossy little hguro
brocaded all through the silk, small
and fine and so arranged that almost
the whole silk is covered"
1t is to be a great season for figured
goods for the manufacturer has out
done himself this year, and the result
is a variety of pretty designs which
will leave even the most fastidious sat
isfied with the choice.
And there are the little shoulder
capes of cloth and silk Was anything
ever prettier? These, II not detacha-
Bile, are laid fiat and are so arranged
that they become part and parcel or
the spring suit. often ending In wide
stoles down the front, each stole end
finished with brass button.