Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-08-20

ing enervated and slaves to luxury. as
some feather-headed person has claimed.
AS long as the vogue of the manly sports
endures and as long the ability to
swing club. ply an oar or handle the rib
bOns is the mark OF a man, so long are We
Secure from social enfeeblement and decay.
Fashion in dress today Is hand In glove
with athleticism. and everything womanish
or dandlfied is under the ban II may
be permitted an innocent figure of speech.
the mode is now, and for. years has been.
broad shouldered. muscular-armed and ex-
pressive of viriity and the physical hardi-
ness OF the race.
The Imitator
Behind the well-dressed man you will al
ways find the FOUNDER who apes his
betters and contrives by his clothes
cesses and absurdties to bring the whole
subject Of dress into ridicule. This person
Is taken by the very ignorant a type OF
the well-dressed man when, in fact he is
nothing more than a camp-follower. II
the mode ordains that trousers to be
full he has his cut sack-like: IL tasteful
ly colored ribbons be correct on straw hats,
he picks a combination that deafens: IL
boots should be moderately pointed. he
wears toothpicks II wing collars be proper
he chooses a minstrel enormity. He is al
ways straining OVERRIDING, burlesquing. and
with his sins fashion is charged. Fashion
Is founded from alpha to omega upon
sense and the fitness of things. When YOU
see man who is starched- a nd-stiff or
clearly uncomfortable and constrained in
his clothes, you can make up your mind
that he knows precious little about dress
Its fundamental principle is to give the
wearer ease and poise, comfort and grace.
to make him look right to others and feel
right to himself. That fashion implies dis
comfort Is curious notion which survives
here and there among the untutored In
ruth, the constant purpose of the mode is
20 SUIT dress to time. place and crcum-
stance. and to make a man seem always in
Shirts and Collars.
Looking toward autumn, the soft pleated
shirt will be generally worn for business
and lounging. Stiff colored shirts are not
approved In the best trade. Fine pleated
nnirts are very expensive. and this COM
nends to the good graces of men who
prize individuality In dress With the COL
ored pleated shirts of autumn will go
white round or fold cuffs. The fold Is now
estaphshed in favor and may be said to
nave gone well beyond the fad stage Mad
ras or batiste Will be the fabrics most used
Tor upper-class shirts, and cross-stripes on
the bosom are to be reintroduced by sew
elaI custom makers of high repute. The
correct white evening shirt will have but
one stud hole showing in the waistcoat
opening. 1 do not mean, of course that
TWO stud holes are improper but simplv
that the smartly dressed man will Indorse
the single stud being the latest exnras-
sion or the mode. Pique bosoms promise
10 be more largely worn In evening shirts.
though the plain are always in good
FORM The lap-front has come to be recop-
nized as the formal evening collar par ex-
celience The wing never won any real
standing for evening wear, but was simply
an interloper adopted by a coterie of very
young men with an uncomfortable yearn-
ing to be different.
AS / have often maintained there should
be a sharp line of demarcation between
what Is worn informally during the day
and formally during the evening Because
the wing is day collar IL is no more
proper with evening clothes after shutdown
than evening clothes would be proper after
sunrise. The lap front and the poke are
the only shapes that will be worn at for
NAL evening affairs during next autumn
and winter.
Styles for Autumn
Plentitude of material and amplitude OF
cut Will continue to distinguish clothes for
autumn. The loose, flowing forms of the
sixties are really the ideal of dress most
becoming to most of us. Gentlemen like a
coat In which the cloth Is not skimped,
which hangs roomily from the shoulders
and buttons easily across the chest. They
like a feeling of fullness and freedom in
their clothes without the graceless baggi-
ness peculiar to the dress of many English
men. This tendency is not confined to
jackets, coats and greatcoats and trousers,
but is just as evident in cravats, collars
and gloves The smart autumn cravats
Will be the folded-in four-in-hand about ~
inches wide. and the expansive Ascots and
onceovers 3Ia to 4 inches These will be
adjusted. as heretofore. somewhat loosely
with the pin considerably below the knot.
Street gloves will be of tan cape. after
noon gloves will be Of pearl suede and
evening gloves of white glace. Only In the
details will the fashions of 1904 differ
from the fashions of 1903. and these details