davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Savannah morning news., 1904-07-17

Combination High and Low Couture Offers Wide Ornaments
Combs Are Simple and Less Popular Than of Yore.

The dressing Of the hair in summer
is always a vexed question, and now
that the average woman clings to her
pompadour, and yet yearns for the low
coiffure. a compromise is essential. AS
the result, a modified pompadour is
worn, waving solely about the fore
head. and the rest of the hair is knot
ted at the nape of the neck instead of
directly behind the pompadour. This
causes a great demand for combs and
ornaments to fill in the space between
the pompadour and the coil.
Graduated combs of tortoise shell are
much used. being pushed sidewise into
the hair, running straight up and down
or vertically instead of horizontally,
ard cutting the back of the hair into
two parts. Two small side combs in
the same design are then used to dress
the pompadour, and they run out hOri-
zontally, but on the bias. complete
set of these combs in real tortoise shell
can be bought for the trifiing amount
of IS.
The Savannah morning news., 1904-07-17
"A Word TO Wise Women
Concerning Do8-Day Clothes
BandBox Freshness the Most Important Requisite and After That Comes
FauETess Get Up.

and the finer gowns, and to touch a
moment upon the simple and elegant
lingerie worn with them.
Wide crowned straw sailors. plain
ly banded with black or white, are
the popular headpieces which are var
led by fixy dressers with floating
wells, in plain or chenille spotted It's
sues. White and not color marks
the fashionable odd bodice, whethe r
shirt waist or fancy waist, and some
of the newest of them, are taking to
soft round collars which let all the
throat be seen. This. of course, is
becoming to the youthful and well
preserved, but the unlined stock,
which is as tight fitting and high
as ever, is naturally more in
demand.
With the dressy day gowns there
are grades of pongee which admit of
a delightful elegance. for with the
finer qualities hand embroideries and
beautiful laces are used. French knots
meander over everything, creating a
sequence between material trimming
and effecting a prodigal look, as if
one could afford things" Sometimes
a family yellowed pongee is decked
with a lowered ribbon, producing a
Vatican are dantily charming. One
such gown has the ribbon run under
coarse torchon in the same shade
of cream, the colors showing dimly
through.
The Savannah morning news., 1904-07-17
By MARY DEAN.

with the net applied with huge disks.
With such toilettes a French fad is to
have the hat and shoes match, both
being made Of white canvas and trim
med with the gown material.
For more practical use still. a pleat-
ed skirt of brilliantine of black taft
feta to he worn with wash shirt waists
is first choice. Comfortable hot wealth
er shirts much in demand are of white
madras, tailor made. These are soft
finished everywhere, even the little
stocks supplied with them being with
out starch. In adjusting them under
the crush belts worn very little pOunch
is allowed at the front. The front bod
ice drop. in fact. is going out in all di-
rections, and the smartest imported
gowns have already some of the high
busted. stiff look of the Louis days.
Ready-Made styles Are Numerous.
Numberless are the ready made
styles in inexpensive suiting gowns, ex-
cellent effects in which sell for 1915.
Dull blues and sage greens are good
picks in these, and bias pipings of
white give such already cool hues an
added freshness.
The question of hot-weather hats.
shoes, parasols and gloves is even more
easily decided. for the shops are burst
ing with them. Plain sunshades of
green or deep blue are found helpful
against the rays Of old Sol, and the
lighter the tint of the tan shoes the
more restful they are to the feet. With
even gowns in deep colors-say in blue
or brown foulard which is a delight
full summer teXture-white canvas
shoes are worn, sometimes sensibly
fiat as to heel and broad as to sole.
But for the most part summer foot
coverings are giddy things of rather
The Savannah morning news., 1904-07-17
Trinkefs Galore
For Summer Parties.

Summer hath no tStrors for the true
card player, and there are many host
esses who, even in the dog days, find
card party the simplest form of en-
tertainment
For chilly or rainy evenings at the
mountain or beach resort an exciting
tourney around the card tables is real
ly comforting. The function is less
formal than in winter, and souvenirs
and prizes less elaborate.
If the games are to be played on
the porch-and in most homes the
porch is larger than the living room
many Japanese lanterns may be
lighted; and a locomotive headlight
or some other powerful light with
strong reflector fastened at one end
of the veranda will furnish ample il
Elimination for ten or a dozen tables.
The new tally cards are suggestive
of summer games. One of the pref
test shows a girl driving a swarm of
gay-hued butterflies before her. On
each butterfly the wings are marked
with hearts, spades, diamonds and
clubs, and here the punching is done.
A four-leaf clover has spades for
flares, while large embossed field
daisies are swung from slender green
cords and the heart of each daisy
is punched for the score. Japanese
fans and Giesha girls appear on tally
cards, and a design that is selling
rapidly shows a pretty girl holding
The Savannah morning news., 1904-07-17

telephone receiver and calling
Hello. Central what's trump"
Another catchy design shows a re-
plea of a colored nanny, clad in
gorgeous raiment with the inscription
II didn't expect to see you heah,
honey!"
HOLSTERS in vivid crimson, automo-
miles with remarkable study in detail.
drums and clown faces are all sacri-
feed to the merry card punch. A
severely plain card is sprinkled with
dice, odd numbers up, and carries
this hint: There's luck in odd num-
bers." Still more business-like and
intended particularly for progressive
games where large numbers play, are
plain score cards with four rows of
! figures and spaces for the name,
couple and table.
A clock face. with the numerals, Of
fcrs a good field for punching the
score, and two horses, running close,
bear the legend Neck and neck" and
are much liked by the summer host
ess. An echo of the ping-pong craze
shows a table set for the game, and
the balls scattered about are to be
punched out for the score.
Favors, not unlike those used at
germans. are popular for the summer
card party. and are replacing the more
! eXtravagant prizes. PAPER mache
clans filled with bonbons and swing
ing from gay-colored ribbons; minia-
ture deck chairs. golf bags which UNI
screw and show sticks, all I'm papier
mache. make appropriate prizes.
A realistic piece of strawberry
shortcake forms an odd box for stamps
or pens When the papier mache crust
of whipped cream. dotted with straw
berries is lifted off, II shows a hol-
low cake which forms the box.
More expensive prizes are those In
Japanese work-paper weights and
desk fittings in metal and lacquer;
Japanese steins-whoever heard Of a
follower OF the Mikado drinking beer?
skulls I'm gold with Japanese enamel
and tiny jardinieres holding dwarf
trees.
Loving cups of various sizes and In
different materials, such as hammered
brass silver and gold. are also pop
ular for prizes. For a mountain re-
treat pretty souvenirs are napkin
rings. match safes. frames and calen-
dars made from birch bark or braided
sweet Grasas.
The Savannah morning news., 1904-07-17

shoulder cape was evolved from cham
pagne-colored silk. crepe shirred back
and front, the upper part of the cape
composed of two broad shirrings sep
arated and edged by lace GALLONS in
self-tone guipure. From the lower
lace bands fell graduated flounce Of
the crepe, very short in the front and
very deep in the back. with under
hounces Of accordion pleating in the
hchu was knotted over the chest with
long ends of accordian pleated chiffon,
held in place with a circular gold
buckle set i'm jewels. Such wrap can
be worn with any summer gown OF
elaborate design. All sorts of lace
scarfs are i'm vogue, and some very
pretty scarf effects are shown in plain
and dotted net. edged with lace.
The Savannah morning news., 1904-07-17

socks provide cool foot coverings for
tots of both sexes. But the straw
sailors for small boys are much big
ger than those for girls. whose most
modish headpieces are lingerie affairs
of pleated lace, lawn or null.
AS to the real lingerie, beware above
all things the starch pot if you wish
to keep cool in summer. and regard
rather the purchase of many simple
things to a few elaborate ones. For
chemises and drawers American
lawn. with edges of Valenciennes lace,
provides a comfortable and dainty tex
ture. Thin nainsook is better for
night-dresses, whose midsummer cut
rains to a decollete neck and short
sleeves. Pretty ones i'm the market
are trimmed at these points with mar
row wash ribbons, run through a bias
of lawn and finished with bows.
These, though they are very carefully
made. cost but rs cents. at which
price the immensely wide drawers
worn, in quite elaborate designs, can
also be had.
Preferred summer PetticOnts.
Preferred summer pettitcoats are I'm
all cases in wash textures. embroid-
cred chambrays in delicate colors pro-
vding smart ones for walking gowns.
Dress up jupons are either in white
The Savannah morning news., 1904-07-17
Useful Tips for
Beach Bafhers.

The bathing season brings many
pleasures, not a few dangers, and quite
frequently freckles.
The girl who spends her vacation al
some watering place should not forget
that for all aquatic pleasures there is
day of reckoning. 1t is great fun 10
lie in the sand and let sea air and sun
glare do their work. but when she re-
turns to town she must appeal 70 q
beauty doctor to remedy the wrinkles
baked in her face.
For several seasons the summer g'I'
has been a hatless, needless, upturneu-
sleeved creature. She plunged into 'ns
water with her hair uncovered anu
dried It after the bath, while lying Oh
the sand.
All this Is now changed. The w
to-date summer girl is guarding ~
complexion Before bathing she ar
a sand bath. Downing her batnlss
suit and a pair Of smoked glasses sn-
CONTINUED on Page Twenty-three'
The Savannah morning news., 1904-07-17

ornaments which fill in the space be-
tween pompadour and knot, and more
ornaments than combs are being used.
When the pompadour is drawn low
over the forehead. with perhaps a little
elevation over either temple there is
worn a half circlet of gold, perhaps an
inch or more in hight showing a Wall
of Troy or some other conventional de-
sign, either in plain gold or filigree. On
either side Of this gold circlet there is
a bow, with many little trimmed ends
ends are a little longer and reach to the
coil of hair. They may be in white.
black or the color of the gown worn.
Mercury Wings Popular.
Another popular ornament is known
as the Mercury wings. The foundation
is a band % twisted, spangled tulle,
mounted on white silk millinery wire,
which sets 3nugly around the curve of
the pompadour Two little rosettes APP
pear at either end, and the Mercury
wings i'm white, spangled in gold, are
attached at most becoming angle a
little to the left of the middle of the
band, and backed with flaring ends of
the tulle. When the hair has an elabo-
rate arrangement Of puffs behind the
pompadour, one or two very striking
ornaments may be worn. One is Me-
phisto wings covered with sequins. The
wings are higher and more pronounced
than those used i'm the Mercury orna-
ments. and they come in various colors,
and are particularly handsome i'm scar
let. when worn by a brunette with a
scarlet gown. The other ornament is
also heavily eequined, and shows a stiff
bow knot of eauze or ribbon matching
The Savannah morning news., 1904-07-17

in color the sequins, and being COM
pletely hidden by the paillettes.
Gauze Fearn Leaf.
For a girl who has beautiful
profile and wears her hair in pompa-
dour and puffs, there is offered a strik-
ing ornament which is worn on the
left side of the coiffure, running from
the middle of the pompadour to a
point just behind the ear. This is a
gauze fern leaf studded with silvery
green sequins and tied with ribbon of
the same hue. 1t is also produced in
white gauze spangled with silver or
gold, and finished with a white bow.
Ostrich tips and aigrettes are not a
summer coiffure even for stately
DANES, smart bows of ribbon or gauze
being in much better taste.
Flowers made from ribbons are still
being used. but only in the smallest
and most delicate patterns. For sum-
mer, the single artificial roses of fine
quality, perhaps spangled to initiate
dewdrops, are preferred.
The pompadour floral wreath is the
most coquettish accessory of the hour,
but it must be worn with discretion,
as it requires a girlish face beneath it,
and gives a certain air of dressiness
quite out of place save for evening
wear. The pompadour wreath is not
more than five inches in diameter, and
is made of very small blossoms. 1t is
worn on the left side just above the
ear.
The Savannah morning news., 1904-07-17
The AIsatian Bow.

Summer girls at the beach and noun
tain resorts are quite in love with
the Alsatian bow in either black or
white, and it is one of the most effec-
tive and girlish finishes for the Golf
fure.
This may be said to be a "droppy''
season in dress, from shoulder seams
to couture. Violets with long droop-
ing stems are tucked into the couture
when the hair is dressed low, and wis
taria is used to fashion the couture
a la Japonaise. The front hair is POM
padoured around the faceCand the rest
gathered at the back of the neck A
long trail of wistaria bloom, with the
most exquisite of blossoms, falls
straight from the top of the low coil
and almost covers it on one side.
The Savannah morning news., 1904-07-17

or mousseline with very fun NUS
sleeves finished in long f1ounces ~
lace over accordion pleated chirfon
No trimming is used on the collar or
down the front of these eoats, because
the hood has a much trimmed sbouI~
der cape and long stole ends. Rose
pink chiffon combined with white
mousseline, the latter showing a
Shower of hail. in embroidered dots
IS fetching combination. The
fiounces are all edged with shirrad
velvet ribbon in pale pink, and inside
the facing of the hood is a band ~
pink rosebuds. Long streamers of tbs
dotted mousseline complete the pic.
turesque effect.
No End of Fischus.
OF the making of fichus which can
be adjusted over both head and should.
ers there seems practically no end
Only the softest and most fluffy ma
terials will drape we'll, and these in
clude plain and figured nets, lace, chit
fon and null. The fichus must bA
rather broad in the center and taper
to long, rounded ends, which NAV ba
tied in a simple knot. Such fichu is
edged with thickly shirred ruff1es mr.
with rose plating.
A very pretty design in figured net
showing yellow roses splattered ali
over it, was edged with rose pleating
of the net, finished with innumerabla
little loops of soft yellow ribbon the
shade of the roses. A fichu of plain
pale blue silk null was practically
covered with narrow shirred ruf1es
into the center of which were set AT
intervals very small artificial rosebuds
Coquettish in the extreme was a pale
green fichu of mousseline, trimmed
with double ruff1es, through the center
of which was run a vine and wea
leaves made from shirred ribbon, with
here and there a rosebud built from
palest pink chiffon. One fichu lraped
over the hair and crossed under
the chin, one long, beruff1ed end hang
ing down and the other tossed over
the shoulder, makes a pretty frame for
a pretty face. A small embroidered
crepe shawl can be worked into a most
becoming summer wrap if treated ON
the lines of Red Riding Hood cane
and hood. One corner of the shawl
is shirred into a hood shape, one cor.
ner falls straight in the back and ona
over each shoulder, with ties of chit.
fon or dotted net at the throat. The
fringe should not be too deem
and white is the most salts.
factory color for wrap Of
this sort.
The Savannah morning news., 1904-07-17

The smartest dressers do not use the
fancy combs but summer girls are al
lowed a certain license in this matter,
and they wear with white frocks a
comb that is a clever imitation of ivory
carved superficially and mounted in
rhinestones. Colored stones for combs
are not in good taste. A striking comb,
shown for wear with that very rare
shade of hair known as spun gold. looks
for all the world like gold dust covered
with glass, finish much seen in old
fashioned jewelry.
Various materials and designs enter
into the building of the complex hair
The Savannah morning news., 1904-07-17

wash materials or else in pale silks
with white trimmings. The wash ones
are fetching and seem the daintiest
part OF the get-up when a skirt is
lifted TO show the fine flounces, and
vOlants of effective lace which embel-
lish them.
In such shape white petticoat
and SILK kimono sacque provides
negligee as cool as charming. Printed
handkerchiefs showing bandanna
colors are used for some of the novel
ties in these comfortable little XII
mOnos.
The Savannah morning news., 1904-07-17
Wraps In All Frabics.

! In the matter of evening wraps there
lis a great diversity of fabrics and pat
terms, but a general tendency to fluff
mess and rather ornate trimmings. For
wear at the beach or mountains there
are exquisite evening coats, mostly cut
on Casino lines, very loose, so that the
elaborate f1ounces and shirrings of the
evening summer gowns will not be
mussed. The sleeves are voluminous
The Savannah morning news., 1904-07-17
The Cool PONCE.

No summer material is cooler than
pongee, which. in the coarser weaves
and made up plainly, shapes trim lit
tie knockabout gowns for grown ups,
and suits and dresses for tiny boys
and girls. Strap sandals and white
The Savannah morning news., 1904-07-17
Canes md PeIerinen.

All evening shoulder wraps may he
divided into capes and pelerines. and
they are composed of lace, chiffon,
silk and crepe. A very smart little
The Savannah morning news., 1904-07-17

Since hrecrackers and burning
weather are usually synonymous
terms. the styles which have appear
ed with July have tropical charm.
Raiment for man and maid suggests
the easy-going of sun-kissed lands. 1t
looks as if it were not premeditated.
but just grew, like the leaf on the
bough. Observation-Disclosures men. who
have stepped straight from Gibson
drawings. go by in light fiannels whose
loose fit marks the cock of fashions
walk Straw sailors or panama al
pines top their closely cropped cram
iums. and alongside their big patent
leather shoes trip the bottines of d
maid whose trottoir skirt calls for
faultless footgear.
FrOcks in BewiIdering Array.
Smart dog-day folk are faultless
everywhere, and the washable tex
lures they now affect have a special
seductiveness. From head to toe they
look as if they were eternally tub
hing, which is really the case, for
without this handbook freshness the
finest summer get-up is failure.
In the shops the onlooker is quite
bewildered by the array of frocks
alone. whose white or delicately tinted
materials hint of cool sherbets and
the julep straw, for such toiettes are
affected by the summer girl for her
own pleasurings. The, gowns are
cheap, too, wonderfully so considering
the cost of labor, for 81 will buy
visions in printed net or others of
mousseline and lace in ravishing colors.
The Savannah morning news., 1904-07-17

and f1aring at the bottom. Pongee,
deliberately embroidered or clouded in
self-toned lace, forms durable evening
wraps which will combine with any
of the colors worn this summer. Lace
wraps are immensely popular, and
these are worn without lining. or with
a lining of the most delicate silk NOUS
seine or chiffon. Black chantilly over
white is one of the most popular and
effective combinations. White and
cream lierre, dotted net with fiounces,
and repousse lace trimmed with ruch-
ings of ribbon in the same tone, are
used in combination with taffeta
gowns.
The Savannah morning news., 1904-07-17
La Pompndour Legncies.

La Pampadour left many legacies to
womankind beside her name. and not
the least of these is a fascinating hood
composed of the flmiest of chiffon,
frills and rufiles. beneath which almost
any face will look charming. A promi-
nent leading woman wore such a hood
in forget-me-not blue in one of the
spring productions at a New York
theater. and since then firms who
cater to women OF wealth have re-
ceived many orders for the pompa-
dour hood and loose coat en- suite.
The coat hangs loosely from the
shoulders. and may be made from silk
The Savannah morning news., 1904-07-17
Comfortable Foot Gear.

tact is not surprising.
Comfortable Foot Gear.
Nevertheless. word to the brave,
for much hangs on the comfort OF the
feet. Medium heels will keep you
young longer, and a little extra width
of sole may even ward off sunstroke
Then, II you really wish to enjoy the
summer, get bare foot sandals and
wear them (for propriety) over thick
ish stockings, and wherever and when
ever possible. One dollar and seventy
five cents is the cost of the best of
these sandals made. but since they
are in tan leather many persons leave
them TO be stained black Twenty
Ave cents additional is charged for
this. and two days are needed for the
work
To conclude this important point of
the summer get-up, gauze Isle stock
ings are cooler than cotton, and quail
tiles delicately fine can be had in them
at 80 cents the pair.
A Word About Head Gear.
Now to jump back TO hats. bodices
The Savannah morning news., 1904-07-17
walking skirts Are short.

The skirts Of all summer walking
gowns are extremely short and stitched
fatty at the hips, the flare beginning
usually just above the knees. Many
smart little Jacket effects accompany
those in the imported linens, crashes
and ducks. whose undersleeves and
vests are sometimes Of coarse white net
with biases and applications OF the
gown texture.
A striking little frock Of this de-
scription is Of deep robins egg blue,
The Savannah morning news., 1904-07-17
The silk shirtwaist.


For this purpose a silk shirt waist
frock is pre-eminently first choice, for
these lightly and loosely made little
costumes are delightfully."- cool The
paler colors are preferred by many 20
the darker ones, light backgrounds
with delicate stripes or shot effects.
and the costumes are usually made up
without other ornament than tucks and
shi-ring.
At a recent shop sale silk shirt-waist
frocks in very pretty models were sold
for as low as so, which buyers versed
in matters of dress embellished with
little touches. Skirts too long were
tucked above the plain hern. thus i'm
DreS7ng their appearance greatly.
while tucked vests of white null or
lawn were added TO unbecoming waists.
The huge bishop sleeves. which under
sized persons cannot wear. were also
frequently altered. clever maids cutting
them into shortish bells under which
were worn filmy white underpuffs II
ts wonderful how these slight changes
and glimpses of white relieve the hard
ness of these gowns. for admirable as
one is willing to admit them, untrim-
med effects are not always enhancing.
The Savannah morning news., 1904-07-17

narrow toes and high French or mill
tary heels and when one considers
the increasing shortness of skirts the
fact is not surprising.
The Savannah morning news., 1904-07-17

The amount of work on them seems
incredible, insets and tucks crossing
and recrossing, shirring and puffs Oft
en- all on one gown. Black velvet rib
bon in long knotted sash, and thread
ings of the narrower sort through
lace relieve apple-greens and brown
ish yellows, a touch of the same some
times appearing on the broad-brim-
med hat which, il it is doing the very
latest, sports rose as big as a sau-
Ger.
But more Of the dressy gown anon,
for everyday wear is the main thing
TO consider, the get-up that passes
the cart horse with its straw bonnet,
that looks proper and feels good for any
trip about town, or any trip out of t..
The Savannah morning news., 1904-07-17

A Word About Head Genr.
Now to jump back TO hats. bodices
The Savannah morning news., 1904-07-17
By KATHERINE ANDERSON.

/ in color the sequins. and being COM
| pletely hidden by the paillettes.