The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1904-09-18

| with marrow revers ana nat co1af' No
| trimming but machine stitching 10 used.
| The lining Ia OF silk, OF q lighter copper
tint, and there are many copper shades
In the peaked turban. A pretty liberty
satin waist Is Of ivory tint, dotted with
copper.
A very unusual tailor dress shows oom-
bination OF q wonderful olive brown velvet
with broadcloth Just shade lighter. Inc
foundation skirt and basque are OF the
velvet, and are perfectly plain. the basque
very tight and the skirt long and OF even
length.
Over the very fottdnt skirt are three
deep overlapping circular hounoes' leaving
O space at the bottom OF the skirt to sho"
the velvet for just the width OF founce.
The fiounces extend TO the front breadth,
which Is also left bare to show the velvet
ach nounce is scalloped and bound Win
black velvet and caught with button.
Scalloped circular capes overlap the
basque in the same way, forming sleeve
caps, but leaving the lower part OF the
sleeves and basque to reveal the velvet.
The effect Is unusual and very elegant, yet
somehow simple.
With this very modern frotk Victorian
SCOOP Is worn OF pale blue velvet beaver,
trimmed with loops Of black velvet ribbon
and white satin.
Panama cloth Is very popular indeed
for the semi-dressy taller suit 1t Is Beau
tiful In deep mahogany and is used In one
OF the Oldest Of the fall costumes, which
shows a suggestion Of toga overskirt.
The skirt is full and long and graceful,
beautifully lined with lighter mahogany.
The basque or coat, or combination waist
and overskirt, Is plain and very tight fitting,
and extends below the waist at the front
and sides half way to the knees.
In the back 1t Is sharp point reaching
almost to the ground. There are deep
inverted plaits at the waist line at the side
seams
The sleeves are OF the regular leg o,
tputton shape. In fact, as whole 1t looks
more like an abbreviated polonaise than
anything else. The only trimming Is a
braid Of black and silver or blue and silver.
And polonaises that look like coats and
coats that look like poonaises are among
the very newest tailor eccentricjties These
long fitted coat suits-for polonaise seems
an unpopular word-are nearly always
built with combination of materials, cloth
and velvet, or plain cloth with wool mixture,
and then made up to have the effect Of
dresses, not skirts and coats.
A skirt Of motor red fine broadcloth Is
made with two deep founces embroidered
with Bulgarian colors. The coat is Of
smooth red and gray mixture and is cut
TO meet the top hounce. 1t is tight fitting
like basque. witha boxplaited bertha and
long flowing sleeves.
The coat has no embroidery. but band
trimmings Of the plain cloth. 1t is lined
with shot silk with number OF the Bulgar-
ian colors. The picture hat has a pheasant
half hiding the crown and left brim.
Another odd suit somewhat Of the same
general character Is OF cornfower blue
Panama cloth combined with a darker
velvet Of the same exquisite hue. The
skirt Is full, with circular founce, and the
tight coat Is In the new casaque cut, long
with the front corners cut away like mans
GOAT.
Protruding from under the coat edge
and forming vest Is wide fold OF the blue
velvet, cut in exact duplicate OF the coat
shape. The sleeves are cut short and then
heightened with the strip of blue velvet.
chemisette is Of marigold yellow ana
the hat yellow, with a long sweeping plume.
and plain and tight fitting, and in spite Of
their severity are used in q somewhat
dressy fashion, for an inf formal afternoon
call, for the theatre when 1t Is not really
dress occasion and for city driving.
Brsadcloth, peau de cygne and liberty
cloth are the best materials for these suits
in any Of the pale oorpsrs or cool winter
oak browns. The coat fastens invlsibly
and secures perfection Of fit by dart seams
from shoulder to hem. The sleeves are
rounded and shortened and fined with SILK
fIills Of raler tint than the broadcloth, and
the stock Is finished with a cavalier frili
Of lace.
than the broadcloth has a wreath of gor5
geous chrysanthemums.
Etons are used, but are tight and simple
and cut away to show vest and shortened
to reveal the girdle. They are prettiest
with the short frotteur skirt, which would
be lost under long coat AL the basket
weaves and broche stuf!s are pretty in this
style.
charming effect in a pretty fall dress
is with plated skirt Of yellow brown CASH
mere, very short and very full, simple
Eton tucked at the shoulders and cut away
over a vest and girdle of deep brown velvet.
The sleeves are Of the latest mode, tight !
and wrinkled to the elbow and then with a !
circular puff to the shoulder.
Pavement gray. which in New York would |
mean q great variety Of shades. is new
London &C or for very smart smooth cloth ,
dresses In New York it is used in rather
elaborate tailor gowns In which there are ,
many stitched bands and plastrons and
button and severity
An interesting frook Of Belgravia cloth is
IN this pavement gray. 1t has the ultra
.ailor effect.
The skirt is made with an oyerdress.
showing the front breadth Of skirt and is
at the sidee. Theplaited back
Is of skirt length.
The short, tight coat is made with plain
basque foundation. then wide stole vest
s set on. then come battlemented shoulder
pieces that are cut to fit on with the uppcr
art of the sleeves and the back has a repeti-
ion Of the stole vest which EXTENDS over to
he sides, nearly meeting the front decora-
ion. The sleeve is Of a plain coat variety
+ 18th the exception Of the extension shoulder
,iece.
This dress il not only odd in continuation