Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-12-03
Iaazzilzzo

is some special delicacy. And it was re-
assuring to hear her add that she counts
among her clientele some of the slender,sst
women in Paris who are both beautiful and
healthy. 81 certainly. continued madame,
''hare no reason to think that the wearing
of small but properly cut corsets causes
great discomfort or injury to health.
At this establishment there Is a great ue-
mand for sizes in corsets as small as 16 and
IL. and quite a number of smart women
wear corsets at night to assist In forming
their figures. These are lower in the bust
and shorter in the hips than the day type,
and perhaps trifie larger in the waist,
but this practice is certainly not one to be
commended. Madame told me that the
tight LAGER who understands the art of
forming her figure leaves her bust and hips
almost unrestricted and laceS merely her
waist. Madame gracously bowed me to
the door and in parting said: Yes, quite
expect to see revival of interest in fig
ure training and the universal return of the
small waist before very long as swing
back from rhe waistless athletic craze
which has afflicted so many women and
girls. The revival of this tight lacing may
not be lengthy one. but think moderate
| ly small waists will always be popular
among the fair sex, for most men admire
them. and that is the feminine ultimatum,
deny it as We will
An Old Fashion.
Tight lacing is by no means a thing of
yesterday. Old examples which have been
handed down, portraits and prints, all bear
witness that this particular vanity is a fem
mime sin from way back In the Cluny mu-
scum are TO be found corsets dating from
the time of Catherine de Medici which
when laced close would not allow more
than thirteen-inch measure Extremes are
always bad taste, and there is no doubt
that the twentieth century woman will
| strike happy mean on this corset ques-
| ton.
| Much comment is heard from those I'M
IN, i,I i-,tr ,cia tn fbor
| the epoch gowns will triumph in the prefer
ence of smart Parisians. 1t really is
question merely of time and place, nos of
popularity. The Louis and directoire modes
will prevail on occasions when a grand
| toilet is de rigueur, but an exception Is
| made in favor of the directoire red
| ingote made of cloth and worn with the
plainest stitched and strapped cloth skirt.
This directoire redingote has double breast
ed fronts which stop just above the waist
line The back and side widths are three
quarter length. and the whole ensemble
is very stunning and cut with lines that
defy description. The mans collar is sim
ply faced with velvet, as also are the cuffs
of the plain sleeves All the seams are
strapped and stitched. A three-cornered hat
is worn with this costume.
Trotteuse Skirts.
In the Bots these lovely mornings one sees
many chic mondaines wearing trotteuse
skirts with sack coats, which are SO much
warmer than the bolero and not quite as
| stately as the long three-quarter jackets.
| The new trotteuse skirt is kept very full at
| the feet
| rather bright colors, such as green, black
and scarlet. worn with dark green short
sack or cutaway basque coat OF cloth, with
a very gay waistcoat. The collar and cuffs
on the plain-colored cloth coats are of
plaid. These worn with a champagne
rough beaver in any becoming shape trim
med with plaid ribbon.
Contrary to the usual order of things,
French women seem to be going in for
sporty clothes in the morning, but the IA
vorite wrap for the afternoon is the redin-
cote
! Very smart Parisians are to be seen gown
ed in black, and older women are affecting
a skirt of black faced cloth of umbrella
shape slightly gathered at the hips. With
this skirt is donned redingote of black
peau de sole trimmed with embroidered
| collar and lightened by a crava5 of chin
| chilla. A toque of yautumnal flowers bright
ems the costume.
Leading Feature.
| The chief feature noticeable In the Pari-
sian tailor-made is it's exquisite cut. The
line in front is reserved to display "a re-
markabiy becoming straight effect, which
gives a slightness to the figure, while the
hips and back are curved to perfection at
the waist The sloping shoulder line is be-
the shoulder defined without the least at
tempt at the exaggeration seen in SO many
of the advanced models which transformed
their unfortunate wearers into pouter pig
cons. Indeed, everything good and worthy
of recording from Paris tends toward great
er simplicity of outline, although the means
to the end are frequently elaborate. The
subtlety of sartorialism today consists in
Disgusting effort, and it really looks as
| though we had touched the pinnacle of art
| the results are so extraordinarily clever.
Stylish Garments.
| 4 stunning velvet redmgote was recently
| seen. 1t was of puce color, the smart note
| being struck by narrow hens of white cloth
| issuing from beneath the folded fronts
| These were ornamented with little twisted
| cords of palest blue and gold, which gave
| the clew for the charming picture hat Of
4 puce velvet put up with pastel blue cloth
| and feathers. The friled shirt of soft net
| had delicious ruffies of the same escaping