New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1904-04-17
Partisan Gos0r,s of Wolfe.

contrast to the general fashion OF wearing coats
falling off the shoulders.
SHORT SLEEVES AND GLOVES.
The fashion of short sleeves is. Of course. going
to make gloves important and expensive item
of the spring wardrobe The wrinkled Suede gloves
will undoubtedly be worn. and the glovemakers
showing some novelties in the shape Of long
wrists embroidered with fine beads silks or inset
with lace. The latter especially pretty. the
short sleeves may also give little impetus to the
fashion wearing lace mitts. which was tried last
season with little success.
Buttons to be used on the most elaborate
costumes. One of the horse show gowns was an
interesting example of the fashionable pelerine
and skirt suit, done IN gray cloth and trimmed
with English embroidery and bands of gray silk.
ornamented with tiny buttons covered with white
linen. The skirt shirred about the waist but
had straight. narrow apron. with a rather broad
turned in fold each side. These folds
namented with little clusters of buttons and tiny
embroidered loops and the bottom of the skirt was
trimmed with wavy pattern Of silk bands set on
with buttons.
The peerine closed under the arms, slashed
up to the bust the Sides and had cape
sleeves. The rather deep collar and were
trimmed with motives of English embroidery and
little rosettes of silk. with button centres The
underwaist Of white silk trimmed with silk
and batiste English embroidery. Its sleeves were
maze with ah IG Puns ana TuieS extegehs wen
Now that the foreign buyers have gone home
regard the expectation and exploitation OF their
models. They admit that they nave had good
season. but claim it was because they had invented
many novelties this year that the foreign dress
makers forced to buy in larger quantities than
tated over the apparently growing tendency OF
pendent of Paris models and that they have no
need to cross the ocean to gather new ideas
THE AMERICAN PERIL.
In a recent interview which of the newspapers
here has had with Paris couturier he speaks
bitterly against the American peril IN the dress
making line that one wonders if there IS not per-
haps considerable truth in the idea that the Amer-
can trade will be able to stand its own
feet He claims that with the greatest duplicity
of the American dressmakers putting
forth their models ideas that they have got
In Paris. They still buy gowns In the Paris
atelers it is true else thew would be allowed
to them; but, instead of displaying these gowns
and advertising them Paris models. they send
them to their workrooms to be copied in American
ma terials, and attach their firms names to the
Wristbands Unless a fashion can be copyrighted
way OF stopping this custom.
The American dressmakers did say while here
that far their customers are concerned they
have not the same need to import models as they
had some years ago. Then. 20 carry on high priced
trade they were obliged to import and sell French
models. Now that everybody goes abroad, little
Importance is attached TO the fact that gown was
70 know that a model gown is generally copied
galore. Undoubtedly the American dressmakers do
best develop In their own workrooms at home
suit the taste Of their American clientele
However. since the American dressmakers still
buy very largely here. and pay at the same time
much than the private customer there seems
10 injustice the Partisan couturier in their
gathering up any general ideas lying around The
visiting dressmakers never get chance 10 see the
new models unless they declare frankly that they
going to buy one-which means at least one in
every important place. Unless they keep to their
visit for those in charge OF these places have the
most uneTrng memory for names and faces.