The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-01-22

correspondence Oh the lHuldndpOllS Journal.
NEW YORK, Jan 20.-Reaily dainty
lingerie has subtle attraction greater and
further reaching than any outside gar
ments, let them be as splendid as they
may. Time was when gentlewomen es-
chewed fine laces, elaborate needlework
and the like desiring only fine fabrics care
fully made, but the age of luxury is upon
us and is apparent in the fneness and
style of our undergarments as in the cut,
fit and perfection of our gowns. Again,
have grown critical in matters of dress, ex-
acting in details, and will have only such
petticoats and corset covers as mean per
feet fitting gowns, only such lingerie as al
lows the grace of outline OF which we are
so justly proud to remain unmarried. Clum-
slness OF shape, loose folds are forbidden;
only careful fit and style are tolerated, and
the well-dresSed woman, consequently, Is as
eager and careful in selecting her under
garments as she is in choosing her gowns
and hats Material must be fine and deli
cate, the work must be done by hand. only
fine trimming must be employed. But, on
the other hand, over elaboration is by no
means held desirable, and anything ike
snowy lace is quite tabooed by women or
refined taste. What is sought is daintiness
rather than splendor, perfection OF work
manship rather than anything SNOWY Bet
ter by far use only the tiniest edge ana
have that edge exquisitely fine than wide
lace whose quality is not Of the best. Bet
ter trousseau of limited numbers deli
cately made than dozens of garments ma
chine-sewed and lavishly trimmed. Indeed,
the bride of to-day considers quality of all
Importance and has quite done away with
the piles of garments which only grow yell
low with age IL they do not fall apart
Even the most exclusive establishments,
those who cater TO the faShloneDle ana the
wealthy and who seldom consider cost, hold
one dozen Of each garment ample and ad-
wise that number rather than bigger one,
while sets are little liked.
The first requisite Of all is a fine fabric
The ones best liked and oftenest used are
French nainsook and linen batiste, but the
still finer Paris muslin Is seen IN some out
fits and there is new wash silk, known as
crystalline, that is gaining favor quite
steadily. The silk is somewhat like the
familiar India in general effect but
is thinner and less likely to become
stringy while it launders with perfect sue
cess The linen is delicately fine yet dura-
ble as all fabrics made from fax are apt
to be, and is charming for warm weather
wear besides being a present hygienic
craze. For years We have been hidden to
wear wool or silk next our skins and as
sured that in so doing we were making the
best and surest provision against colds and
illness, but the authorities have changed
all that and to-day the cry is linen. Linen,
we are told is the purest, best, most
healthful of all fabrics; linen Is the only
preventive of disease; linen alone leaves
tions. Whether not the decree has to
do with the fashion, / do not know. 1t
may; but experience teaches that la mode
is far more powerful than are all the physl-
clans and scientists of any age and the
presumption is in favor of its being liked
and worn for its own dainty sake, rather
health or wellbeing in spite of the adj
vance the modern woman has made along
that line.
HAND EMBROIDERY.
The smartest of all the smart garments
shown by the importers are of the finest
fabric with embroidery worked onto the
material not applied. Narrow lace is used
or Gin whenever a is needed
frills are liked, butt the ornament on the
gown or chemise is made part of 1t and
is finely worked by hand. Fleurs de lis
daisies. bow knots are all good and favored
designs, but even simple dots have q great
er elegance than lace set in or embroidery
bought by the yard. pretty notion is
ventiOnal design and making use thereof
on all the garments OF ones wardrobe
Daisies are peculiarly charming, but there
are many others OF quite sufficiently simple
form, and the selection Of any one and adj
herence thereto means certain dainty
elegance that at once appeals to the ferni-
nine mind. Done by skilled work peonIe en-
ployed therefor, 1t becomes costly, but
there is a sensible revival of French en-
broidery AS fancy work afoot and it be-
comes quite easy for anyone who has
mastered the art to do the work herself
Materials Of the finest and are alto
gethef agreeable to handle. The labor is
far from exacting and no greater drain
need be made uSon ones time than often
Is given over TO far iSxz worthy objects
one little midWlnter bride that I kaoE, has
done all the work on her entire outfit hef-
self. yet has been by no means overtaxed
Fleur de lis was her chosen design and
charmingly lovely it is in the beautiful
raised work, while she still assures me she
has given only time that otherwise would
hive gone to less available needlework or
some other passing fad.
The nrSt, all-important requisite as 10 cut
Is perfect At and freedom from bulk What
the modern woman aims at is 10 be 1.-THE
svelte, to use the term of the hour. and
she will have none of clumsy garments.
The filfny materials in vogue have allowed
the revival Of the chemise without surren-
dering this quality that comes before all
once more. but well shaped and without
undue fullness about the waist. BY far the
best are in French style and shaped TO
fit the figure with few folds, but widen
take the place OF short skirts, so dispensing
with an additional band. The shapeliest
cut TO fit with almost no fullness about
the neck and are finished with wide frills
at the lower edge. AS a rule eyelet holes
or longer openings are worked at intervals
and through these the ribbon is threaded
Seams are all either closed in French style
with open stitching or are held by inser-
tons of tiny lace Where embroidery such
as / have just described is not Obtainable
fine insertion of Nalenciennes lace is in
serted to make design and lace frills fin
ish neck and sleeves, but nothing fussy or
in the least bulky is 10 be noted on really
good models.
NEW IDEA IN SKIRTS.
Corset covers and petticoats are really be-
wildering in their variety and beauty, but
carry out the one general idea Or the mini
1.a.1N~