davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1904-10-18
SPoRTSMEN

6 an find everything
they need in the line of
Guns. Rifles, Ammu.
milton a n d Hunting
Coats at
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1904-10-18
Most important Sale OF Jerseys

Mat h.s ever taken place in Maine, and
eholI,i ur,vt. very attractive to everybody
i,tr,,~t, Il IL Jerseys. All on exhibition,
'ru..,lav and Wednesday. Per order Of 5.
II Lewis. G. L. PERLEl. WESTON
LEWIS r. NJ MOULTON. r. ).
ELANCITARD. OctlJ&lS
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1904-10-18
% CLASS. TROTTING. PURSE $500
EIkST DIXISION-TWO IEA,CS SAT- l

8 CLASS. TROTTTNG PURSE SEQ
SECOND DIVISION.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-02

est of silk mousselines or stamped
chiffon dress fabrics.
A tea-green ground of chiffon IS
bordered with ribbon to match, and
stamped with lilacs. set off by tiny
white silk-embroidered dots. The
same pattern is shown in black, with
white lilacs and dots embroidered in
silver, an exquisite combination. Still
another black ground shows chrysan-
themums in Japanese colorings, set
off by small dots in gold embroidery.
A white ground is stamped with faded,
rose-colored blossoms. and over the
pattern small chenille dots in deep
American beauty rose are scattered.
A black chiffon foundation is almost
covered with great sprays Of haW-
thorn blossoms in rose and green, sur
rounded by white silk dots, and this
yelling has an edge of inch-deep white
ribbon. The gayest yelling of all is
offered for wear with a white auto
MODELLING coat. 1t shows Martha Wash
ington geraniums. stamped on white
chiffon. overlaid with white silk dots
and bordered with white ribbon. For
wear with an all-black or dark green
hat there is offered a veil which holds
all the shading of the rainbow. The
founda tien is black chiffon. bordered
with black ribbon, and the surface is
broken lrreguIarly by halt-lnch dols,
embroidered in red, blue. green, pur-
pie and gold, all so bler6rd that, as
the mesh is lifted UP or twisted
around the hat, they fall in rainbow
colorings of the deepest hues.
These fancy veilings make the face
invisible, but, strangely enough, the
wearer can see through them quite
clearly, though objects viewed take on
fantastic colorings. They are worn
more for drapery, however, than for
shields for the face. Frequently they
do not fall below the hat in the front,
but are draped over the top and fall
gracefully in the back, while simple
net yelling shields the face.
These extravagant veilings owe
their vogue largely to the motor car,
though, after all, the well-gowned au-
tomobilist prefers plain yelling to
match her coat or frock.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-02

sold by the dozen, and a number Of
them are necessary. Besides all these
garments carriage servants must
have wet weather dress and undress
livery.
1t is the butler who represents the
personnel" of an establishment. and
his livery approaches dangerously
near to the hosts own dress He must
have morning dress and formal dress,
aprons of white and aprons of green
haize for cleaning, white sleeves and
breakfast jackets. together with wash
able waistcoats and ties. The second
man dresses almost like the butler,
but with less extravaganza.
But the gorgeous man of the serv-
ants quarters Is the footman. and
when he is arrayed in his court dresS
he apes a prince Of the royal blood.
A hostess may stamp her individuality
in the garb of her footman and may
use as much gold and old lace as she
cares to. But even in the footman's
livery, black is still a standard, al
though less memorable for other livery.
A striking court livery is of green inn
ported cloth trimmed with silver lace
and braid, with a waistcoat of silver
colored silk plush and breeches Of
green plush.
The chauffeur, the yacht steward
the caddy and Buttons" should all be
in uniform in keeping with the other
servants of a family. Many women
have hundreds of buttons made with
the initials, monogram or crest mould
ed into them for use on the garments
of all their servants.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-02

the ribbon border runs around three
sides of the veil, which is a yard and
a half long, and shows the deepest
shade of the color selected. The chif-
fon closest to the ribbon employs the
same tint, then gradually fades, until
at the side of the veil where the drap
ing begins the chiffon is pure white.
These wells are shown in yellows,
blue, green's. puppies, red american
beauty tints prevailing and the popu-
lar new shading. from pinkish white
through ecrus and chocolates, to dark
brown.
The next step in ornamentation is
the plain or shaded dot on the shaded
chiffon. These dots are of chenille,
velvet or silk embroidery. ranging in
size from a sixteenth to three-quar-
tiers of an inch. Sometimes they show
the darkest tint of the shadings, or
they may be variously tinted them
selves.
Last of all come the gorgeous
stamped veilings. reproducing the gen.
eral effect of the printed ribbons
which are now enjoying such a vogue,
and in pattern, weave and general ap-
pearance closely resembling the sheer
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-02
The Mefeoric Rise
of Knitted Raimenf

simultaneously with the announce
ment that silk and linen mesh are
the only weaves worth wearing next
to the skin, arises the cry of the up
to-date girl for some snug-fitting jack
ct or vest of hand-knit wooden mesh
for wear over her shirt waist. Happy
that grandmother or white-haired aunt
who can make for her the old-fashion-
ed knit raiment remodeled on 1904-5
lines. 1t costs twelve dollars to have
a sweater kitted or crocheted to order.
to say nothing of materials; and the
really smart girl turns up her nose at
machine made sweaters and vests.
Wool yarn, or silk and wool mixed
is used for these fetching bits of raj
ment, and the gleam of silk is bound
to show somewhere in the garment.
White and a rich cardinal red seem
to be the favorite colorings. The heavy,
grey mixtures offered last fall and
winter are suffering a decided eclipse.
A fetching sweater for a golf girl is
crocheted in a plain stitch, allowing
for pleats. These box pleats follow
the lines of a Norfolk jacket and a
belt is crocheted to match. The front
is double breasted and set off by large
pearl buttons. The cuff is snug and
tight-fitting, while the throat is FIN
tShed with neat, turnover collar,
with which may be worn a bright
windsor or four-in-hsnd tie.
A snug fitting sweater appropriate
for skating or brisk winter walks has
a shaped neck with a dickey crochet
ed to match. This is fastened in with
small pearl buttons which also close
the single-breasted front.
A stunning golf vest is knitted from
white wool, with a peppered effect in
tiny black dots. A variant of this pat
tern shows the black dots running in
stripes, as in novelty braid. Both vests
are finished with fat white silk braid
lined with white taffeta and fastened
with nat pearl buttons.
A snappy little vest Of white silk
and wool is bound with white silk
braid and set off by buffet-shaped
brass buttons. The same vest is
produced in cardinal red, bound with
silk to match and has large, nat gold
buttons.
pure white sweater with bloused
fronts is crocheted In alternate stripes,
plain and shell stitch II has a box
pleat running down the front, set off
by big fat pearl buttons.
For a young girl. there is shown
a Monte Carlo or box coat effect IN
knitting. both white and red. a mined
with brass or pearl buttonfCI These
viii hardly become popular. = the
athletic, outdoor girl loves 10 look
i'm and neat and saves loose. how-
ing emects for house gowns or eve
ming cloakg.
The hunS Tyre Of xvi who Is given
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-02
Aufumnal Veiiings
A Riot of CoIoring

Gorgeous is the one word which
will describe the fall veilings. Vivid
blue, green lavender and rose wells
have been offered for the past few
summer seasons, but they fade into in
significance when compared with the
stamped chiffon effects of the hour.
The girl who has only one ready
to.wear fall hat can give it a new
twist by the possession of several
wells which will combine well with the
hat, for the new fall wells are draped
to envelop completely even the broad
est of millinery. These richly tinted
veilings promise to last well into cold
weather, and it is certain that they
strike d rich color note in autumn raj
ment.
Following all millinery trimmings,
passementeries, ribbons and even silk
and-wool fabrics, the simplest of the
new veilings are shaded. AS rule,
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-02

to drawing room posing rather than
70 outdoor sports, is not neglected
by the up-to-date crocheters, for she
may have the daintiest of dressing
cssques, planned on the square, old
fashioned lines, and showing white
wool and silk knitting, threads in a
glistening combination. These come
in white, black and white. cardinal
and all the fashionable pale colors.
They are bound in self-tone ribbon
or silk braid, and fastened at the
throat with a dainty cord and tassel.
The sleeves are roomy bell-shaped
affairs. and the knitting is closely set,
so that the sacque is exceedingly
v arm and "cumfy.'
Less quaint and not so warm by
half are the kimonas crocheted in an
open shell stitch and bound round or
run with ribbon. These are offered
principally in white, run with bright
ribbons, but they are made to order in
any of the popular house shades.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-02
Rich Dress Combinations
For Afternoon Wear

Long before the dinner-and-dance
stage of the social season arrives, the
feminine world gathers at afternoon
teas, "at homes" musicales and SINH
lar functions dear to the heart of
woman. Consequently the grand prom
enade and exhibit of new calling, re-
ception and house frocks is now on,
and is we'll worth seeing.
The extravaganza of the house
frock has passed all describing. Ger
tain limitations are observed in call
ing gowns, even by the woman who
rides in her carriage, but within her
drawing room walls she let's her fancy
for delicacy of coloring and ornate
ness of trimming run riot.
Never has there been a. season when
the tide of feminine taste has run on
such bewildering lines. The influence
of half a dozen periods is left in
Fashions vagaries, and as a result
women who can afford to possess many
frocks are trying their hands at the
Costume de STYLE" or picture effect.
That is. from the toe of the shoe to
the curl or the Eeatnef, the entire cos
tune is a reproduction of the gown
of certain period or, perhaps. it
may be copied directly from some
famous painting of an old-world
beauty. Such a pronounced costume
study requires a certain patrician
beauty in it's wearer, and plethoric
purse, for 1t cannot be worn frequent
ly, or at anything except a formal and
dressy function.
The Costume de Style"
Velvet and satin, hand-painted silks
and satins, heavy and ornate bullion
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-02
House Gowns for Winter
Look Like Ball Costumes
Sleeves Are Cut Display the Arms the Train Flows from Decoage
That Is Ball Low.

The Individual touches upon the
house gowns being turned out for au-
tImn and winter wear by smart max
ers and importers of distinctive pre-
tensions are. to say tho least. sur
prising.
For one thing, the elegant tea or
boudoir gown or house frock more
nearly approaches a ball costume than
the thing the mind pictures it should
be. Sleeves are cut to display beau
tiful arms, and the train flows from
a deoolletage in many cases ball low
All sorts Of extravagant and novel eff
fects are striven for. so that at first
glance the mind receives the impress
sion Of fancy dress. And yet the good
models are all in perfect taste, and
effects are so studied that details are
lost in the loveliness of the entire
picture.
The English have so long impressed
the idea that house gowns are nee
assarily something loose-and fire.
quently dowdy-that the adjusted ele-
gance of the French robe d interieur
seems almost an affectation to many.
The first tea gowns introduced were
all English and. in a great degree.
the outcome of the esthetic craze.
Through them dim but rich colors also
came to the fore, and all the lines OF
the garment strove for effects as sem
timental as graceful
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-02
Uniforms for Servants
Now Counted Essential

It is as essential that the woman
with only a single maid should know
how to properly dress that maid as
the woman who has anywhere from a
dozen to a score of servants to keep
in uniforms. BY the appearance of her
maid is the hostess measured.
The universally accepted garb
for maid servants is black with white
apron, collar, cuffs and cap. For gen.
eral service there is nothing so dur
able. The black gown. of sateen or
brilliantine, is made with a skirt just
escaping the ground and not too full,
and the sleeves have a deep. four but
toned cuff, so that they may be rolled
UP. The bib apron may be as fancy
as the girl desires, and little black
velvet rosette or bow adds a chic
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-02

touch to the cap. In summer the black
gown Is often supplanted by print
frocks OF blue and white. or pink and
white stripes, or even by pure white,
If the laundry work does not have to
be taken into consideration.
Just now. in uniforms for men serv-
ants, there Is a variance of opinion.
One faction contends that the staid
old black, greens and blues are the
only acceptable colors for livery while
the more faddish contingent has
adopted some light shades of gray and
the new tones in brown, tan and ma
room. The Belmonts, the Goulds and
the Frenchs never dress their servants
in anything but black. Mrs Cornelius
Vanderbilt's servants. one and all, ap-
pear in rich claret- colored uniforms,
with black silk ornaments.
One disadvantage of the newer
shades in liveries is that they will
not harmonic with the carriage
cloths, and, really, II is the carriage
makers to-day who are responsible for
the established shades in uniform ma
terial. The material Is known by the
name Of the carriage maker, such as
Smith blue. Jones green, etc, When
buying carriages many OF the wealth.
Ter families order a SUFFICIENT supply
of the material used In upholstering
the vehicle for the livery of their
coachman, footman and groom.
No small wardrobe is that which
properly belongs to groom and
coachman. and the expense is not
trihing. A body coat and breeches
Of a fine cloth will cost anywhere from
s25 TO s35. while the great coat, 10 be
quite modish should be In Russian
style, with plush Innings and black
Persian lamb collar and cuffs A coat
of this kind costs from SIS 10 800.
Top garments, or "stormers," and
gaunlets OF dog skin, goat skin. as
trachan or Persian lamb are necessary
kor families who take advantage OF
sleighing weather or who drive on zero
days. A coaehman must also have a
silk high hat, a square top derby, a
whipcord stable cap and a bell.crown
coaching hat. A ooachman's and foot
mans patent leather carriage shoes
and hs stifffeB boots OF calf are no
snIsi ITEM. the latter not beilF Oh.
tainatae sor lass than $40, White Ca
Enas,hinD -tte1 nsua Witleeasessag heae apt
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-02

braidings. big picture hats. embroider-
ed and hand-painted stockings, gay
heeled shoes-these and many other
striking features are seen in the Cos
tune de style"
Pale colors have by no means lost
their ascendency in the frocks for
hostesses, though the much abused
champagne color has disappeared
from the color category of the up
to-date woman. Oyster, onion and
putty color come in broadcloth and
all the yelling and silk weaves, which
are combined with lace and fur. The
palest of pastel tints in gray laven-
der, blue and rose are shown in an
exquisite weave of silky broadcloth
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-02

intestinal Indigestion" Is the new
name for a multitude of stomach trou-
bles. It Is the recognized cause Of
heart disease, kidney troubles. consti-
patton, fatulency, Inflammation OF the
bladder, neuralgia, headaches. diEzi-
ness, Appendicitis, and rheumatism.
Green's August Flower goes right aft
er intestinal indigestion and quickly
clears Il ont or the intestinal tract,
speedily curing any or all Of thu Az
ments mentioned. Trial bottle, 2bc.
Sig bottle, 7te. AZ a. dTaggntGD-
knights Pharmacy
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-02

While guarding these valuable attri-
butes, the French robe dinterieur goes
the English model one better, in that
IT never at any time takes upon itself
the air of negligee. 1t is always adj
3usted-ftted TO the fgure-even while
effecting extreme loOseness. Aesthetic
hues, too, are largely avoided, the coll
ors chosen being rather those which
the French themselves describe as pale
or bright, clear or vif; and as for the
rest-well, let a quartette of delightful
costumes speak for themselves.
Velvet of the soft liberty variety, in
the deepest shade of the burnt orange
tints so much in vogue, is used for one
gown. This is superbly embroidered
upon the skirt and undulating angel
sleeves in the same color. The sleeves
hang from bracelets of highly FURNISH
ed jet, leaving the shoulder exposed.
A tiny band of jet also holds the gown
upon the shoulders, and at the back
the extremely low decolletage is fin
ished with a huge Jet and gauze but
tertly, which gives the wearer some
thing of the look of being winged her
self.
This gown Is designed by a leading
French maker, who has announced his
intention of establishing a vogue for
butterfly ornaments. Another house
gown turned out by him is described
as being of citron green net, over
changeable topaz silk, embroidered
with swarms of yellow butterflies.
These are outlined and veined with
tinsel.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-02
Not Worn Japanese Fashion.

However. these charming fantasies
are not always worn japanese fashion.
Many wearers use them chiefly as
ornamental wrappings over thin slips
cut low at the neck. whose dainty
white fronts show between the open
ings of the brilliant kimono. Superb
peacock blues. deep pinks and Jade
greens are display ed by these japanese
garments. some of whose embroider-
les run 10 big black storks. peacocks,
etc Those showing inharmonious
lining, as is frequently the case, are
also refined with thin matching silks.
which increases their beauty and
value
Attractive phases Of the elegant
house toilette are gems and shoes
matching in color. The beautiful paste
Jewels now TO be had render harmony
in this direction an easy matter. while
shoes In every hue under the sun can
be had ready made.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-02
Ten nnd Bondoir Rohe..

Along with these elaborate and dis
tinctly individual gowns. which. Of
course. are for the more formal tea
and coffee occasions. there are as
dressy tea and boudoir robes In more
conventional effects The majority
are cut with a decolletage more or less
pronounced. though in many cases lit
tie lingerie fuckers and camps are
supplied 10 Ill UP the opening on &C.
casions. Undersleeves In similar ma
terfals are sometimes included with
these dainty accessories, which show
the most accomplished hand stitchery
with their fine lawns and delicate
laees. The set gives the gowns quite
another aspect when II is worn.
All materials that hang softly are
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-02
Long Novelty Chains.

The long novelty chains sometimes
worn accompany the fine house gowns,
but strings Of one sort Of ever beads
are newer and thought more elegant
than the odd combinations. Among
these are ropes Of round Jade beads
and others of white bone the same
size, separated by slightly smaller
beads OF crystals. Egyptian and Jap
anese necklaces In odd and artistic
forms are also worn, single strange
and striking ring sometimes going
with one
The dressing Of feet in the house is
elaborate. New stockings reveal I'M
usual splendors in embroidery and
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-02
Gown of Trianon Pink.

Gown of Trianon Pink.
One such gown is developed in tri-
anon pink etamine and Italian lace
dyed the same shade. The skirt is
made full, with the upper portion in
fine tucks and the lower in four deep
tucks between f1ounces Of the lace
A shoulder cape made in alternate
strips of ribbon and flounces of the
lace almost covers the bodice, the
decolletage taking the pointed form
of this at the neck. A wide pink rib
bon fastened at the back Of the cape,
carried under the arms and tying at
the bust. creates the effect Of sleeves,
which end in double fiounces at the
elbow.
1t is curious how every happening
in science, politics or what not affects
the world of dress, for along with the
splendors of ancient days we are ever
reminded Of the moment. Geisha tea
gowns are piquant hints of Japan
share in the current war, and there
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-02

openwork. and il the gown is very
rich, the little satin shoes which ac-
company it may likewise be incrusted
with bits of precious lace or edged
with rare fur Butterflies and moths
of point lace are set into the toes of
some Of the satin slippers. Wonder
fully beaded bows ornament others of
kid, while still others depend upon
trimmings in d contrasting kid.
shoes of Black Patent Leather.
Some little shoes which present or
namental qualities for smart house
wear are of black patent leather. with
heels and trimmings of turquoise blue
or trianon pink. The fashionable
house heel is the slim silt of the Louis
XIV period. The toe of the shoe, how
ever, is comfortably rounded, and,
because of the exaggerated hight of
the heels, IT must, of course, always
be longer than the foot. But, despite
this defect in dressy footgear, fashion
so shapes the taste that one seems
very badly shod in low heels and a
little discomfort is preferred to ap-
pearng so far behind the times.
In the matter of correct lingerie for
saying that undergarments must be
of equal fineness. Petticoats should be
frou-frou and in washable materials
for the silk underskirt is distinctly a
street garment.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-02
The Rose Ornament.

That whimsical bloom. the giant"
artificial rose, used so much the past
summer, charmingly ornaments sew
eral pretty house gowns. Tucked in
the left side of bust drapery OF
changeable taffeta, big one in the
same delicate yellow daintily sets off
a gown in white crepe de chine. The
gown proper is in the form of a pep
lum robe, with the train and sleeves
cut in one and worn over a short
shirred dress OF white mousseline de
sole. The sleeves of the robe are Dor
dered and worked at the bottom with
gold, full lace ones hanging under
them. The folded silk and a second
giant" rose is supplied for the Golf
fure.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-02

are Japanese tea and coffee jackets
cut precisely like those worn by the
Oriental coolie. The gieshas are the
usual silk kimonos in form, but of
finer materials and more radiant col
orings than have ever been worn here.
The sashes which tie them about the
waist have the true japanese stamp.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-02
By MARY DEAN.

used for these. French cashmere in
the bright trianon pink forms many,
and some of the ruching- bordered
trains hang loosely over trimmed pet
ticoat fronts in the charming old way
now so much admired Marie Antoin-
cite fichu effects In soft mulls, laces
and nets are also seen, and there are
other gowns with definite lace and
ribbon capes which are becoming to
slim figures.