davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Irish standard. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn. ;) 1886-1920, 1904-09-24

recovery, as it Was . noMn 4hal his all
ment was cancer Of the liver.
The body OF Prince Herbert Bismarck
will be buried in the Vault beneath his
fathers maUsoleunI. not besiLe the re-
mains Of the great chancClo in the
chapel.
The Irish standard. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn. ;) 1886-1920, 1904-09-24
Gives to old Ace Fund.

Rome, Sept. Ito celebrate the
birth of the crown prince, the king has
donated the sum of 100000 towards
an old age fund for workmen.
The Irish standard. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn. ;) 1886-1920, 1904-09-24

rode out from the palace. The brilliant
procession then started for the cathedral
through the troop-lined streets.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-29

And that reminds me that pelts and cloth
are combined in the same costume, often
with a happy result. For example, a stun
ming frock of white cloth had its jupe
crossed with two yolants of white fox, the
little short, semi-fitting jacket being of the
same fur with an oriental touch of en-
broidery threaded through the waist line
and collar. The blouse worn with this cos
tune really looked though it was made
from one of those Turkish scarfs the sons
of the Ottoman empire so persistently ped
die to Christians. Another practical and
charming combination is cloth and velvet
cen. the latter used trimming and often
put on the skirt in tucks. Astrakhan is
also pressed into service as a material for
skirts. The beauty of furs to be seen in
all the shops is astonishing, but, alas, how
far beyond the reach of most of u.s. Tho
exasperating part of 1t all is that the sim
plicity of the cloth walking coats really
demands the addition of handsome fur.
But one may make a virtue of necessity by
using as a substitute the handsome braids
which given to us this season in such
abundant beauty. These braids are applied
with military effects. There is generous
use of gold in combination with a color,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-29
A CRAZE OF THE HOUR
PERIOD FANS ARE IN OLD WORLI
COLORS.
Those for Ordinary Use Show Louis ant
Empire Designs-Parchment
and Tuxedos.


Written for The Evening Star.
dress OF every period and a fan for
every dress, with at least one over for the
cabinet! This seems to be one of the sar-
torial notices of the up-to-date woman
She has her directoire, her empire and
her Louis gown. With the former she car
ries great fan of solid ostrich tips. With
the second she carries a fan designed by
Napoleon himself, with its empire wrea.hs
And with the third she carries a sparkling
suggestion of Marie Antoinette In studded
mother-of-pearl rose-point lace and hand
painting.
For her cabinet she INDUCES in the high
est extravaganza of ALA Verni Martin
that is, if she is willing to pay a hundred
and fifty dollars for new bauble to grace
her drawing room.
In this case the last shall be first in COM
manding attention. The Verni Martin fam
is absolutely without utilitarian value, but
| is an exquisite work of art. The slender
blades of medium length, which go to make
up this fan, are of ivory in wafer-like thin
ness. painted on both sides by hand in the
richest and most subtle of colorings
1t requires six months to make one Of
these tiny articles, each blade being paint
ed separately, and time being given for it
to dry before it's companion Is taken up
skirts of Paris and each fan is copied from
one of the originals in the Louvre. The
scenes all represent life in the Louis pc
riod, and the ivory handles are iniaid with
gold
The Louis fans intended for actual use
are in either parchment or lace. At the
distance this parchment looks like ordi-
nary Japanese paper, but where a fair
quality Of fan in Japanese work may be
bought for dollar, Louis parchment
fan costs ten dollars or more.
Inlaid With Gold.
The sticks are sometimes Of ivory inlaid
with gold, or sandal wood similarly treat
ed The parchment Is a rich, mellow,
creamy tint. and the decorations have a
singularly subdued and old-world coloring.
On one side appear conventional designs,
such as urns, garlands or musical instru
ments, while the other side is more
elaborate, showing peasant or court scenes
of the period
Lace fans are In needle point or rose
point around medallion of exquistely
painted fabric, which looks like boiling
cloth. The scenes are either cupids carry
ing garlands or they suggest the artificial
sylvan amusements of Marie Antoinette at
Trianon. The handles are of ivory or
mother-of-pearl, inlaid with gold.
The empire fan comes in all colors shown
in silk this season. A beautiful example is
a fan of empire green silk which gives the
effect of a rep. This is ornamented with
empire wreaths in the tiniest of gold
spangles and the ivory handles are inlaid
with gold.
The tuxedo-a fan which has very de-
cided curve with very short end ribs on
either side and which is seen much at the
dinner table-comes this year in marvellous
combinations of white gauze, silver spangles
and ivory handles inlaid with silver.
Spangles appear even on the expensive lace
fans. and are used to pick out the center Of
a flower or outline the veins in a leaf.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-29

up with vim. The French coat was car
ried out in bright-colored cloth relieved with
fancy gallOon or embroideries, but the most
effective Jackets were those Of velvet in
lovely colorings.
Parisians are quite tired of the "cou de
roche" and are now wearing a shade called
channels. 1t is softer and more becoming
than its rival, mandarin. A long, basqued
coat of myrtle green has a narrow collar
inset with chamois colored cloth bordered
on each side by straps of black astrakhan
and tiny gold braid. The same trimming is
repeated on the narrow, turned-b back cuffs
A new gfrdle which is a pleasant change
from the centuries of ribbon, silk or velvet
we have been wearing so long has made its
advent. 1t is fashioned of wide. coarsely
woven braid fitting around the waist and
tied IN bow at the back.
There is an extremely outre fashion which
mas gained some followers at this center of
modes-that of wearing girdle or black
taffeta with costume of another color
There are accompanying rosettes of the
same taffeta to be worn on the corsage and
sleeves. Quite along the same bizarre lines
is the bead trimming used on hats This is
the latest millinery novelty. The beads are
wound around the crowns in ropes of diff
ferent colors harmonizing with the scheme
OF the chapeau. The taste of such a decora-
ton is questionable, for if not daintily used
they are decidedly vulgar.
CATHERINE TALBOT.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-29
The Thanksgiving Table.


Something colonial by way of decora ton
is always in order on this day. A pretty
centerpiece may be made of wheat and
small artificial pumpkins-the wheat, bought
at the florists in set piece, will need to
be opened and rearranged in a small sheaf.
Smaller sheaves may be set down the length
of the table if it is sufficiently long, and
the yellow may be still further carried out
in bonbons and in the candles and shades,
and the ices may be served either in little
pumpkins, or may be nodded in that shape
tiny card bearing the name of the guest
may be tied with yellow ribbon around the
neck of a small turkey and put before each
cover These turkeys, by the way, come
at all prices and in every variety, from
the little feathered fowl which costs but a
few cents to a really artistic irfdescent
bronze bird which will serve as paper
weight later on The colonial idea may be
suggested in the sherbet cups made OF
black paper in the form OF quaint mats
such as John Alden wore; spray or TWO
of the wheat may lie under each hat with
good effect.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-29
Fashions in Belts and Girdles.

Contrary to the general prediction that
broad belts and girdles would be short liv
ed. there is every probability that they will
continue to be fashionable for some months
TO come. The newest girdles are made in
an excellent quality of silk and unlined.
Tlis takes away considerable bulk from the
waist AMI permits the silk to drape more
gracefully Buckles and slides on broad
belts or yirdles are artistic and very effec-
tive. There is usually an oblong buckle at
the back to give breadth to the belt at this
point and square one in front which pro-
y;des the dip or ssope that is most desirable.
side slides that adjust the width at the I'M
ierarm seams are made to correspond with
me buckles. Fancy belts of plaid silks In
prnliant colorings have large rings at the
sack and smaller ones in front, through
which a reat tab or flap is passed.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-29

and like most of the fanciful effects nova
days. it carries flavor of the past with II.
Chenille will be seen on costumes III a
moderate degree and Will not tTahsioiui
gown into a sort of animated grape aroor
with an intermnable criss-crossing, as
II did a few years ago. safe rule 10 Ioi-
low In trimming Is when IN ooupl pia'
buttons" and you will trump your Dut.on.
less sisters gown all to pieces. Anu ~
same buttons have risen to the rank 0.
first importance and have become VIVA.
our friend Dominic Sampson would cai
'sprodigious" They are large and asseIliNe
and used sparingly or else are inililiI Is.-
maIly small and arranged in groups or iohg
lines There are fiat buttons OF clotn anu
velvet set In rims of metal. obtrusive rouno
buttons of gilt conferred with JeWei an an q
buttons of buffalo horn, oxidized silver, kio
and enameled and painted ones worm q
kings ransom which carry out the LOUIS
modes to perfection. But all things moolsh
shall be granted unto you If liberal sup
ply is placed on a costume with alscnetioh'
Smart Little Frock.
A smart little gown which delightfuliy
carries out the button fad is OF checked
velvet, the skirt bound at the bottom with
plain velvet, above which band at Intervals
is line of rather small velvet-covered
molds Two lines of velvet placed wide
apart form a band on the upper part of the
jupe, in which are scattered lot of the
same buttons. They also trim the sleeves
and surpliced effect on the bodice. A dainty
toilet on which buttons play no part is of
copper-coored CLOTH its chic depending
upon bouillonnees of the cloth fitting on the
bodice around a yoke of wool lace and
heading the skirt fohnce. And, anent lace.
there is a smart new Richmond in the field
1t is made of kid not as costly as the Span
ish stamped material used in extensively
fitted homes but quite exclusive in its way
for the ma jority of allowances. This lace
follows the broderie anglaise designs, which
appear in muslin, cloth, silk and now in kid
Fan-Plaited Sides.
1 really think descriptions of the long coat
have been done to death, but the last word
has not been spoken. The latest wrinkle is
to cut the coat below the waist line in a
wide plat having set of fan plaits on each
side. These produce the necessary spring
over the skirt, and permit the basque about
the hips to closely follow the curves of the
figure.
The origin of the long coat is interesting
to trace. 1t is said to have been introduced
by Nine. Pompadour as the correct riding
coat at royal hunting parties. This innova-
ton, like everything decreed by the ''grande
marquise, was adopted by the ladies of the
court. No sooner had she set the example
by wearing this becoming coat than the
entire train of the king and queen took it
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-29
Winter House Gowns,
From Harper's Bazaar.

FROM Harpers Bazaar.
The smartest house gowns must be on
loose-htting, graceful lines and even a
hint of crinoline is not evident. unless in
the width around the skirt and the multi
tude of pleated and gathered fiounces in
lace or chiffon that are requisite to the
finish of the skirt. 1t must be understood
that these fiounces and ruff1es are never on
the skirt, but under the gown itself or else
on the underskirt. always so arranged as
TO hold out the skirt, but not as part of
the trimming.
The smartest tea gowns are, as has been
the fashion for some years. most costly and
elaborate in material and trimming but
there are several new styles that can be
carried out for much less money in the
lowered silks and nets this winter. and
that are very effective They are all on
the picturesque order and have a Vatican
pleat at the back. close-fitting elbow sleeves
finished with wide embroidered linen or
lace ruffies, and the skirt opening in front
over an embroidered petticoat and one
style Is draped at the hips in a way that
suggests the pannier effect again.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-29
Eat Before Dinner.

A thorough society woman, one who I'M
derstands herself, will take something be-
fore going to dipner party. 1t may be just
a cup of hot tea, perhaps stimulant in the
way of A cup of black coffee or. better than
all. a cup of hot milk and a biscuit. This
braces up the nerves, stays the stomach
and keeps the body well nourished until 1t
is time for dinner
The woman who sets out for formal
dinner party without eating anything before
she goes runs the risk of faintness and dull
ness before the dinner hour. She is certain
" much less alert than the one who takes
bite before starting out.
The most successful beauties are those
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-29
Skirts Are Shorter.
From Harper's Bazaar.

From Harper's Bazaar.
Even for home wear skirts are shorter,
and for the street both long and short
skirts are made. The truth is that reg
ular war is being waged among the leading
tailors of the different countries on the
subject of street dress.
One faction is in favor of the short skirt
and the severe "tailor-made" order of street
dress; the other contends for the long skirt
and the elaborate style. AS yet no com
promise has been arrived at save that ap-
parently it has been decided that one cos
tune to do duty all day long is impossible.
For morning and for general wear 1t Is the
short skirt and three-quarter length coat
always. but for afternoon the long skirt
and short coat or jacket with basque and
everything about the costume as elaborate
and expensive as possible.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-29
Jeweled Fringes.

Jeweled fringes seem the mania of the
moment These take the form of pendants
and appear in pearls and diamonds A very
beautiful example seen had the cone shaped
top of iiamonds from which fell a thick
tassel of many rows of pearls about two
inches i'm length Another was entirely in
hriiliants. the top and glittering tassel be-
ing made of Brazilian diamonds. Diamond
shoulder straps are another new idea They
are made in the same graceful design and
usually end in diamond tassels both at the
front and back of the shoulders
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-29
Fashion Hints.

Fancy galioons will be a favorite trim
ming for both velvet and cloth gowns and
wraps Trimming makers have never before
made so many or such exquisitely dainty
STYLES in galloons and braids. Bits of color
twinkle IN and out between the heavy
coar Sc meshes OF the braid in way that
ACIDS wonderfully to the charm of the
gown.
Flowers and p!umes in every tint of yell
low. on down through burnt orange and cog
lie roche 70 terra Gotta and rich wine color
are being shown on all sorts of stunning
hats. White chiffon and white null hats
With delicate touches of silver are among
the prettiest OF the evening hats.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-29

remember this injuncture-rub up The
tendency of the facial lines is to droop with
every added year of your age. No woman
Keeps her youth so well as the one who
Keeps the lines of her face up-tilted.
The following recipe makes delightful
cream to be used at night. The camphor
gum called for is especially suited to a
skin that suffers from chapping, and now
that the winds of the late year are biting,
1t is time to be prepared to fight them:
In two ounces of almond oil dissolve one
fourth ounce of camphor gum. Add one
ounce of white wax, spermaceti and benz
coated lard. Melt the whole together.
When the ingredients are thoroughly melt
ed, remove from the stove and beat as
you would whites of eggs. The process will
be a long one, for the cream should be-
come really creamy before you leave 1t.
Useful Suggestions.
Skin food is made as follows: Melt to-
gether two ounces sweet almond oil, one
ounce lanolin, one ounce cocoanut oil, one
half ounce white wax, one-half ounce
spermaceti. Beat until nearly cold, adding
gradually fifteen drops tincture benzon and
one ounce orange flower water.
Battle the arms and legs with hot water
every night, using plenty of CASTLE soap
Use pumice. This may irritate the skin
a little; in that case Soothe the irr1ta-
ton with glycerine and rose water. The
roughness will be slow in disappearing, but,
unless it arises from unwholesome condi-
tions. 1t will disappear. Do you eat sensi-
bly,. battle frequently and take much ex-
ercfse? $50
A simple exercise for charging the fore
arms Isl Stretch the arms out horizon
tally and rigidly before you, then clasp
and unclasp the fists strongly and rapidly.
Walking develops the calves of the legs,
also dancing.
The following freckle lotion is as sure
as anything which does not remove the
skin: Four ounces strained honey, one
ounce alcohol, one ounce glycerine, three
drains citcric acid, eight drops essence of
ambergris. You can whiten neck, face and
hands by applying a mixture of the juice
of a lemon and glass of water; do not
wash off but rub in cold cream at once.
A lotion for a red nose rs made by mix
ing any amount of rose water with per
cent of its bulk carboic acid. Cold baths
and brisk rubs afterward with flesh brush
will help you Increase your weight by
the use of sweets, dairy products and
starchy vegetables
Treat your scalp to daily massage after
the applca ton of this remedy for dandruff
One ounce tincture cantharides one-half
ounce glycerne. one dram liquid ammonia,
oil of rosemary, six ounces rose water.
Brush out the hair and the scalp every
week. Shampoo with soap bark-boll a
heaping handful until the water is red,
then strain and add to the strained water
enough warm water to fill your boWi.
Rinse the hair in several waters and final
ly in one to which has been added the
juice of a lemon. The streakings should
disappear as the general health of the hair
improves.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-29
Lucky Charms.

The wearing D: charms and amulets was
very popular among women some years ago,
and even nowadays a few persist in the be-
lief that the wearing of such is lucky.
Little golden cow bells, four leafed clover
in crystal locke.s. tiny slippers and simu-
lated twin almonds all figure largely as
lucky amulets. BOTHER more grotesque are
The trlnkets like old nails, such as one buys
lit Vienna, or tat pigs The uglier the
charm so the more luck they possess
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-29

who do not eat O great deal at a dinner
party. They take a bite of this and a taste
of that, but no hing more.
Great beauties eat very little, and what
they do eat is Of the simplest and most
nourishing sort While they never refuse
celicacies, they Go not eat heartily of them,
reserving tn, appetite for the simpler and
more nourishing viands.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-29
To Stop Bleeding.

In the case of a severe cut from a knife
or razor try the immediate use OF finely
powdered rice or -four to the wound. This
has proved a great success in almost stop
ping the flow OF blood from severe cut.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-29
A Smart Embroidery.

The latest thing in evening frocks is the
robe of broderie nancie. This embroidery
has a silk threat run through the design
ami is buttonhols1 with color.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-29

THE QUEtIof BEAUTY
What the Proper Care of the
Face Entails.
-s-a-v-~ n - z-.r
NEW LIFE. FOR SKIN
TO BRING PACK AcK THE ROSES IN
THE CHEEKS.
The Best Method Of Removing Black
haoIc orI III c:-,o1, fr1c
The Best Method Of Removing Black
heads and the Simple Apparatus
Required for This Treatment.

Written for The Evening Star by Katherine Morton.
1t was enc windy day in San Francisco, a
typical afternoon there, with the fog blow
ing in from the Pacific in great clouds that
came down as. low as, ones face and gave it
bath of infinitely fine spray Mary Man
nering had arrived in connection with d
n,ashy play which was getting upon her
nerves afterhlong months of it in the east
ern cities. 8 * s..~
You're looking welt and not bit worn
with your much-detested Janice remark
ed, as she stepped into her cosy little hotel
apartment. :
She was rosy and crisp with walk in the
cool air and she looked the picture of
freshness and young enough to be as fool
ism as her despised role. :,
ut is this air that has done it," she said
Il really am worm out with season of
this play. but the atmosphere puts my COM
plexion back in England, and l know 1 look
blooming. So does every woman I have
met" li
What makes it? Thessting of the wind?''
No, no. the fog. of course. Didn't you
know there is no. such complexion treat
ment in the world as a dose of tepid fog?
What Is IL but gentle steaining. far bet
ter handled than any beauty doctor knows
how to handle her steaming apparatus :?
Many dermat0Iogist has tried to initiate
a natural fog, and many directions for a
homemade one have been offered to the
public hut nothing compares with the gen
uine fog =
What is tire exact effect produced?"
THE warm dampness softens the skin and
opens the pores, cleansing them. 1t is clog
ged pores that make dingy compilations. A
dash of water such as many women in
dulge in every mornings merely fulfils the
letter of tie law. The skin needs a genuine
soaking, and that is what it gets in fog.
English women have beautiful skins. The
air is not drying. as it is in so many parts
OF america. Thereiar some climates that
parch one in a cruel way. making the ten
der cuticle roughen and look sort of-what
shall 1 call it?-frayed, all the time
If it be fog that cleanses and freshens
the skin most satisfactorily, then it is worth
while for jewellers in unbefogged places to
discover the Best possible imitation that
man can make.ks %
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-29
Velvet With Fur Edges.

One of the sure signs of the times in the
dress world points to the wearing of much
velvet and the mingling of this fabric with
siik-a jacket, for instance. of velvet worn
with a skirt of taffeta, peau de cygne or
messaline, s the case may be. Then, on
these frocKs, are to be found edgings of fur.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-29

number of frills and furbelows on a gown
Is not nearly so interesting to the general
reader as that which goes to make up the
ensemble. One might as we'll try to eX-
plain how Corot put his masterpieces to-
Gether as to give a really adequate idea of
the component parts of one of the sar-
tOrial chefs d OuyreS of today