The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-09-17

fitted snugly and with great skill. An
yet there is no suggestion of paniers,
though Perhaps the new short basque
Jacket may be a forerunner in disguise
of this fashion of other days. 1t is below
the hip curve that the modish skirts
this autumn begin to show their full
ness, and as they near the bottom they
become gracefully full and haring. OF
course there is a reason why they hang
in this correct and fascinating fashion.
The new lightweight princess haircloth
has much to do with it. Sometimes IL
is used in the skirt proper, and then
again it is sewed in the fiounce or
f1ounces of the drop skirt. Heavy cords
are another device for giving a full
skirt the proper flare at the bottom.
Frequently two or three featherbone
cords are used in the silk drop skirt.
Shirred f1ounces are a favorite trim
ming for the new skirts, and the old
fashioned scallops which display rows
on rows of beautiful machine stitching
are also the mode this season. The
perfected oscillating stitch has revived
this effective method of finish. The
woman who is planning her autumn
frocks will do well to remember that
shirrs and tucks are conspicuous on the
best of the imported models.
The first signs of pronounced change
point to an extensive use of stiffenings for
skirts and various extenders for the tops
Pf G Sa s1ys ss ehH ORR ing
vival of the bouffantry which prevailed
about ten years ago. Already as is al
son extravagant effects in the innovations
that mark the incoming styles have APP
peared in few imported models. Hair
cloth interlinings in one or two of the
most spectacular showings have reached
are daring but less pronounced the hair
cloth extended to the knees. Whether or
months of haircloth are before us is a
question. There is limit to feminine
endurance even in clothes. And haircloth
means discomfort and inconvenience. It
will bring back lined skirts and this fore
Innings are to be used there is little need
remaining for supple materials, the grace
may of course, be introduced into the
foundation skirt, but in this case fac
site, and here is still more bulk
skirt interlined with sttffenings must
the iiking for fitted tops and fiaring hens.
When these interlinings were on the scene
before, godet or organ gan pipe . backs were
these full backs will return.
Let the woman devoted to her elaborate
lasts The vane has veered back to Sc
we're walking suits and before many weeks L.
tnmes aeVoid of frii and oHnee and With
sleeves that owe all their beauty to the
lines of the arms which they will follow
The first favorite in suit jackets for the
early fall is long, doubled breasted in the
front and rounded in the skirt. The skirt
for the tailormade IS only moderately fun
at the hen1 ana nus SnuBly st the. HlpS.
Many of the new suits have skirts plated
the full depth, the plaits being held in
leash nearly or quite to the knees or bS~
low them. The plated cloth skirt is cuA
In cores to avoid all semblance Of bung~
ling A good many skirts are of the PLATA
gored type, the plaits appearing only be-
low the knees. In these, the seams are
stitched or strapped.
While the half or three-quarter coat,
with semi-fitted or. close fitting back and
loose front, is most seen at present in
coats, hip length coats are in evidence.
So far, they are mainly sloose with coat
sleeves and severe finish. AS BELTS the
season of mountain sojourn. favorite ma
teriaiS for suits are covert cloths, tweedS
and cheviots. An English magazine gives
these hints to early tailorings: Simple
coats with rounded basques are to be IA
vorites with smart West End tailors-
They will be single breasted and the
rounded basques will be deep. Properly
made such a garment fits the figure like
4 glove. Tt is turned back at the neck like
i mans coat and is finished only with
stitching. The sleeves are close fitting.
The draped bodice which reappeared af-
ter many years last spring, will be among
he autumn styles for all supple materials
such as light cloths, silks and velvets.