The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1904-03-23


which have been carried out largely
through the suggestion and direction
of Mrs. Goelet. They have chung to
the old-fashioned ways of their grand.
fathers and grandmothers-for the
succession of servants is as unbroken
in line as the family itself-and they
still believe in lighting guests to bed
with brass cand1est1cks and extin-
gushing the flame with "snuffers. The
Introduction of electric lights and cleo
trio buzz buttons in place of the clang-
ing bells worked with wires has shock
ed the butler and the maids beyond ex-
preston. They don't like these new
Yankee "contraptionsp at all and the
idea of steam heat instead of the open
fireplace, with its old andirons. has
upset them completely. Mrs. Goelet
has advised her daughter however,
that the old methods should be sup
planted and the old castle is to be
renovated from Intel to parapet.
Though women have reached almost
an equality with men in some profess
sional and business walks Qndeed many
women would be indignant at that "al-
mostly, and are getting better physic-
ally, too, because of golf and gymnas-
tics, there is one point in which they
are compelled to acknowledge inferior
ity. They blame house builders for
that. The point concerns shelves in
closets. A majority of women still
have to climb on chairs to reach the
shelves, or else appeal to one of the
other sex. She is forced to realize that
with the contractor and builder her
needs are not considered when shelves
are being put in, yet Of all times that
is the one when the height of a woman
Should be remembered.
1t is safe to say no public address
has created such a furore and SO much
indignation among the better class of
families in Chicago as that delivered
by James Gamble Rogers, architect in
which he drew such invidious distinc-
ton that even the imperturbable Mrs.
Potter Palmer was aroused. Mr.. Rog-
ers said Chicago presented a general
lack Of refinement, and that the prefer
ence of the general public was, as soon
as the expense could be borne, to emil
CRATE to New York. Those assertions
| might have been forgiven, but when
Mr.. Rogers said the women Of Chicago
were .the most poorly dressed in pro-
portion to population Of any town in
the West, he called down upon his
architectural head storm of wrath In
the meeting at which he spoke, there
was not less than 5000 yards of silk, at
So yard, and as for diamonds,
quart measure could have been filled
to overf1owing.
No fashionable won1an's wardrobe
will be complete this season without a
shirt waist suit of birmingham. The
name of this material suggests an Eng
lish manufacture. but 1t is made in this
country. Birmingham is heavy,
fleecy pongee, closely resembling zibi-
line, save that birmingham is all silk.
1t has sprung into immediate favor
Less than a week ago the first packages
were opened, and now there is such a
scramble in the leading shops for bur-
lingham that it is impossible to meet
the demand The fabric comes in
white, black, blue and light brown. Of
these white is the most attractive. A
shirt waist suit or a tailor suit Of white
birmingham trimmed with heavy silk Or
linen Cluny inserting would be highly
effective.