The San Francisco call., 1904-03-27

with a fine shirring and Is very full
indeed. To make this shirring very ef-
fective a deep hem is sometimes made
in the top and a shirr string is run
through Another shirring is placed
three inches below the top one, and
still another. In this manner a deep
heading is formed. while the hounce is
very full below it,
The palmer suits. the linens the can
vases and the other substantial goods,
are made with a many gored skirt,
plain and finished with deep hem. The
skirt is well shaped. and there is the
inevitable flare around the foot, with
out which no skirt is complete.
Other skirts are trimmed with bias
bands OF the material. and still others
are trimmed with stitched strappings
OF the goods. while others are trimmed
with latticed bands. There are hand
some linen skirts that are decorated
with stitched panels. with yokes out
lined with straDpings and with deep
hounce-like piece. with a stitched band
at the top.
Quite large percentage Of the linen
suits show inlets OF heavy lace, with
delicate wash embroidery outlining the
lace. The number OF linen gowns
trimmed with lace is constantly on the
increase. and the trim and neat linen
gown which was so necessary a feature
of the wardrobe threatens to disappear
utterly.
Yet there are those who Ike the per-
fectly plain tailored linens and the Sc
we're ginghams, and for those who enjoy
wearing these summer suits there are a
number Of little English styles which
will catch the eye.
The Three-Quarter Linen Coat
A very neat tailored suit OF Scotch
gingham was made in two coIors. and
there are many linen suits made OF two
shades Of linen. The pipings. the strap
pings and the small trimmings of the
suit are OF shade of linen to contrast
with the main part
The linen coat has come in with the
summer wardrobe. This coat is cut
straight and is trimmed with lace. 1t
is made with wide sleeves and there is
some fullness across the back A coat
of linen is washable and should be
trimmed with linen lace But aside
from the material there is nothing or
binary about the coat, for 1t is cut on
the smartest OF summer models.
very knowing little coat OF blue
linen is cut long. almost TO the knees.
1t has the exaggerated sleeves OF an
opera coat and the sleeves are trimmed
with very wide lace. The collar is a
square sailor collar, also trimmed with
lace, and there is abundant lace upon
the front of the coat.
The fashion of making up a three
quarter or half length coat Of ma
terial to match the gown is a growing
one, and more than half OF the summer
suits will be fitted out in this way. The
fashion is one that is simple to make.
for it requires very little fitting and the
only cost is the price Of the material.
which, in the case OF linen or canvas
or any OF the heavy materials, Is not
great
coat is that it shall fit across the
shoulders. shall have very wide sleeves
and that the sleeves shall be finished
in some handsome manner. perhaps
with a wide puff caught into a narrow
cuff, below which falls a very wide cur
tain OF lace.
Another way to finish a coat sleeve
is with what Is called cornucopia,
which Is bordered with lace and Is
lined with lace frflls. These can be
built OF very coarse lace or OF lace OF
very tough weave, so that they are
washable.
The Two-Picce Shirt Waist Suits.
direct outcome OF the fancy for the
three-Quaxter linen coat u the tW0-