The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1904-10-16

With the opening night OF the opera sea.
son not far Off jewel cases are being ordered
out OF safety deposit vaults, and specialists
who keep in touch with the fashion makers
of Paris and London are holding conf.
Dental consultations daily with the smart
est women Of New York-women who think
rothing Of having their handsomest Jewels
Z atet every year.
Not, as one of the jewel specialists ex-
h<ined the other day, that the fashions In
ewels are always precisely the same on
tooth sides OF the water. 1t often happens
that iewelled novelties favored in the Eu-
ropean capitals by the smartest W omen are
rejected by the New Yorker and, on the
other hand. the American woman OF fashion
often creates a vogue for n design which u
Londoner will have none OF.
-For instance" said the specialist, TAKE
the matter OF earrings.
According to the most authentic fashion
news, long drop earrings are meeting WIN
the highest favor in English society.
Women, young. old and middle aged are
affecting them over there.
Now as every connoisseur OF what Ii pc
coming knows, there is no piece Of jewelry
which adorns or disfigures to the same e1-
tent as the earring. The American woman
OF fashion found 1t out long ago, and for
likely to have any vogue whatever In New
York.
1T certainly has not at the present mo-
ment. Earrings are decidedly in again
in to stay for some time, believe but
the setting most demanded by the younger
of the fashionable leaders-and they II Is
who really set the fashions-is short
drop; preferably pearl.
This time last year there was Some
thing of demand for screw earrings, but
a.. ha .h.NTf
surmounted by one small stone which
presses close to the ear. The size OF the
drop depends, or ought to depend, alto
gether on the style of the wearers face
and the size and shape OF her ear.
Some women ought never to wear car
rings, as. for example, when the ears stand
out bit from the head or the lobe Is long
and thick. In that case, to adorn them
with a large, round pair of pearls, say. VIII
inevitably call attention to their defects
and also make the face appear much
broader.
"1he other day l sent for customer
who was anxious to get pair of perfectly
matched black pearl earrings. Not long
ago | managed to capture two pearls, OF
that sort in, London. They formerly be-
mounted them and then sent for my GUS
toner, who came in promptly, bringing
her husband with her.
"They were both in raptures over the
beauty of the stones and made no objections
to the price, Then the lady took on her
veil and tried them on.
"She looked at herself critically in the
mirror. then at me, then at her husband
and we all looked at each other without
saying IA word The matter was, the ear
rings were not all becoming. They were
too big, too broad as she found by trying
pair of smaller, pear shaped pearls which
suited her perfectly.
why is the long drop earring not be-
coming? For this reason that it destroys,
or conceals rather, the contour, the pretty
curve of the chin.
Pearls lead all other stones in the newer
earring designs, and seldom or never are
they combined with anything but a small
diamond Black, white or pink pearls
are worn in this way, even though not
another pearl is seen on the neck or the
corsage.
Solitaire diamonds are now mou nted as
drops, in preference to wearing them as
screws, and the same can be said OF other
stones; but so far the New York women
with the best stocked jewel cases seldom
wear other than white stones in their ears.
What they may do later is hard to say,
The crown setting in brooches or &c
ornaments is one of the most favored with
American women just now. in England
it is not considered good form for any but
the nobility or the descendants OF royalty
to wear jpwelry of that design.
Last summer when | was in London |
escorted by appointment distinguished
looking American woman to look at a col
lection of jewelry which was to be offered
at private sale. Later met Sir William
Streeter. the Bond street jeweller, who
remarked.
81 am puzzled to place the lady who was
with you this morning, and yet | thought
| could recognize all the members OF the
nobility at sight.
-'She is an American | told him.
@'Ah' was his only comment.
'He was puzzled solely because the Amer
lean wore at her throat a miniature crown
of diamonds.
This crown setting is carried out in the
corsage ornaments of imposing size as well
az in hair decorations of the most expensive
quality. In fact it is seldom used except
with the handsomest stones.
"One of the new touches given to corsage
of conventional form is the
addition of flexible ends or drops made
of large pearls emeralds or other stones
not fringe of drops but just two ends.
The effect is very graceful.
Substantial brooches mounted in the
style so popular hundred years
or 80 ago are quite in demand by women
who can afford to buy an unlimited num-
Der of stones and crowd them together,
and the modern setting for these has two
rows of smaller stones encirclinG a central
mound Of larger ones.
1T is by this mark-two outer rows of
stones instead of one row-that the newer
finger rings can also be told. Look at this
for example"
The ring in question was a superb emer-
aid bordered with two rows of small dia-
monds Another ring had square anne
thyst surrounded in the same fashion with
two rows OF fine pearls.
Speaking of rings continued the jew
eller reminds me that broad settings are
much favored now; that is, setting which
spreads on the sides over the ring and
the finger rather than the high narrow
design formerly no much liked
over which the smart woman is holding
the most interesting conferences just now
is her necklace, for the reason that never
before were there so many varieties from
which to choose, and never before was it
necessary to have so many. There are
necklaces and necklaces for evening
wear, others for afternoon.
so make selection Of single strands Of