davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1904-09-04
WRITTEN FOR THE SUNDAY REPr srIc.
rrt. y-Ii hate o,e rotnipp IN ,cun

WRITTEN FOR THE SUNDAY REPUBLIC
rhe fall hats ere coming to town.
Other years they had the saving grace
n. sdapisbilitv. for no matter how costly
hat might be II yet could he worn si:h
q voHety of cost mos
In that WAY IL worked its pasEaSc. Ru'
now there has Teen q strike among hats.
snd each hat must stick 70 It's own par
ticuiar costume.
This means more hats and bigger miiii-
merry bills than ever before. for the ASH
innahIe woman this autumn will rn' con
slider her wardrobe compl"t" unless s!.o
ra- \ hit for every costume
Tnc DAY ~ tho accommodating iii-h!r L
hat seems 10 he over.
When tho black hat is worn IL x .'l-y e"
$50 tiat ~ has leon Designed rJ-rog"i: 20
wear with particular costume
II is In Fla" crown that the gf>a's='
change IN tho now hats is to no soon.
The crown Il asserting itself. II IL --t-
ting higher and higher.
The croenIos- hat. so Fashionable var
nSc. would he oonsricuously gu; Of date Z
~ should pu: in an appearance with ;rr
now autumn nodcls
The high crown shows itself got only IN
the dashine vrivct-covcrei Dircotoirc hate.
hu, also in the simpler STYLES Tor kuo~I-
about wear.
The everyday hats in addition 70 their
pronounced Gowns Save lost all their
stiffness.
They are -1,de IN he softcs; ~ rc';s
and trimmed I'm Wv 80 iudIcstc that
they verr designed ~ please tho -ssen-
tally feminine woman.
The band which encircIes the crow, -
often Of soft silk iail In folds while in
front the silk Is drar-nd e'tr~r ~ y care
less chou or arranged I'm loose fo'1r.
Many ~ tho hrir,e arc edged with
fancy silk braid. which has the cncr, y,
embroidery.
KID FOR EVERYDAY WEAR
Another Fashionable trimming fn- the
fst for everyday ee,r is kid.
The kid is extremely soft. ard .s used
MT only in bands. but formed into
huckleA Nov. the new feature IL thsr
fhs kid IS embroidered IN the prsttiss, 81
soft colors. delicate shades Of red. blue.
green and yellow being sas4.
The embroidery idea, BY the wsy, en-
tiers largely into the asS hats.
4 very nsv ssd u 10 kxys i've sassssd-
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1904-09-04
EMPIRE TEA GOWN MODELS
ARE POPULAR AND BECO=

For summer. fine batisfs Q,
seine are both snar, for tn
well as the more ssrvieeah
point d'esprit.
The Empire gowna fail!n
shoulder IN one or two Widl
are most attractive, and q
nay not have the ELK cord Z
pissed under the pieats at ,
A long train Is effective. b
and such Il essentially 10
only fo- req comfort. % II
may he dispensed with II
skirt resting but little more
al the back than IN front
sides.
A collar y seldom WON. n
rather Gu; In a small V. OF oil
AMI edged of with Q collar
lace. Again. the square. quit
Isie IL becoming and will ID
bOv sleeves are generally ~
harlng and edged with q d
lace. which Is caught UP at
a soft kno: OF rosette OF I'll
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1904-09-04
tn. way in which tn. dress 4, made that

the way in which the dress II made that
counts. the pattern OF the silk or even
the quality OF lace or ne. being practically
n minor consideration.
For the dcbutante. soft gowns Of ne;
and chiffon will be most popular. and
even for the older women the wardrobe
must not consist entirely OF heavier silk
and satin gowns. but must have at least
one or two lace. net and chiffon gowns.
The tuile and net dresses must be very
full. the skirt. particularly. having plenty
Of fiare practically from the hips. These
gowns are usually more effective when
made up over silk the color OF the net.
but often a coiorcd slip will be worn under
"A white net The lining must never bc
white 10 the gown In OF 4 different shade.
Gauze materials Of all sorts ~iii he
smart. and these. too. must bo made up
over silk or satin. and there should always
be the inner lining Of tulie or chiffon be-
tween the silk and the gauzs.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1904-09-04
FkOCKS FOR SHOPPING WEAR.

the bodice and FOR this reason the shirt
waist suit retains its popularity.
Linen gowns made up with fine suimps
or with detachable yoke and cuffs are ex-
cesdingiy smart as we'll as being more
serviccabie made In this way. thus eavin z
80 much tho material Itself which is not
necessarily soIIsd every time that the col
lar and cuffs need freshenins.
Then. again. the dress with a transpar-
ent collar and small square unlined Yoke
is far cooler :han any lined coIlarhand can
possibly be.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1904-09-04
Fit Closely Hips Where Fullnes Is Laid Publication Goods
lust Tc Siiruuk First Following Thread of Goods

WRITTEN r'l- ~,IF SUNDAY REPUBLIC.
Fashion demands that the -.p-tp-date
Skin, be quite ;ul about the feet. but fit
sHucly ovc- the hi.s
To accomplish this shi.riTSs. ;ucks ard
plai;s hold TIE fuilnes= ,;osc At the waist
ana hips. leaving TIE fIil width 20 form a
graceful of,cs; 81 the bottom.
-'Scyefll ToHs 90 shigfiu- = properly
placed. aye icc,r.nE 70 very slight fig
uTes. uEt for those Who are iurii-ed &c
s,ou;ness The plated mcde's E.ve longer
lines and define the figure more effective
ly." says the uelincator.
Many skirts Of this sort are made Of
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1904-09-04

linen. r!.;as duck AID the novelty cotton
fabrics. aEd one should Always bear in
mind the fact that it is quite a. i'm
portant Jhat these washable materials be
shrunk and pressed before cutting al cloth
and EOolsns
\ good method TO use with colnred wash
fabrics il 80 lay the material on table
and sprinkle ID Vel It's entire length. by
dipping clean wh.sk broom in bowl
of water. then shaking the water from IL
over the material. rolling It UP as II Is
mo'sicEcl
II 'he Material = figured or has q de-
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1904-09-04
MATERIALS TO
BE USED FOR
EVENING GOWNS
BrOcade. Tulle. Net and Satin
Are TO BE Seen in Great
Variety.

Although early IN the year 10 have
the evening gowns for the coming win
ter made up. II II. nevertheless. not too
early TO invest In the materials. and there
Is no time Of year when all materials
and costumes OF any sort can he OBJ
tained ut more reasonable prices than at
tho present.
One cannot 70 very far astrsy on the
goods for ball gown. for 1t 10 principally
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1904-09-04
Negligee Frock Has Become In
ppriant in All Wardrobes
Taifctas. SatIls and BroCades
Favored Materials.

TIE so-r-li-I tea gown forms one % she
most important pants OF the trousssa'I.
srd ROW quite a. much thought - given
10 ;he designing ~ this costume as is be
STOW - upon the street gown. or even on
;te handsoriest evening c-ess.
DO expense l. spared. for tho material
mast ice a. thr hguGsome-t. and lace OF
the fa:e-t And mos, beautiful order must
be employed r. the making o: this gown
I'll. texture used in the Tea gown OF to-
DAY derr-is wholly upon tie size o, the
income. ..r taHetes satius. brocad.s. and.
in fat. s..ks Of every description are made
u, ~ tails dainty morning or afternoon
costume
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1904-09-04

across ,!r front. IN an effective cord and
hail design
Such q hat MAJ have q oogIr or hsrsis
foath'r draprd over tho f.=h' s..!o -
the h.r ami allow "a 80 fiIi over tue hair.
Tn" H'ho hat. wn"-' nlTy rfiils had go
much 10 de- with adding to tine charm 90
IL" summer girl. IS DUPLICATED IN soft SIX
iu tie new autumn m.lliner,.
The ranch. [volume] (Seattle, Wash.) 1902-1914, 1904-06-15
Harvest Begins Early.

1t is expected that within two weeks
from the time this issue of The
Ranch reaches it's readers harvest in
the Walla Walla country will be in
full blast This is considerably earlier
than last year, but the ranchers are
pleased at such prospect as it not
only lessons danger from various
causes during the first half of July,
but enables farmers in that section to
be well through their harvesting be-
fore the harvest hands start for the
fields of the Palouse country. In
Franklin county the harvest is ex-
pected to begin between the 5tn and
10th of July. The only element Of
danger to the wheat crop in the Walla
Walla section now is hot winds, but
no one looks for them, owing to the
presence of a large amount of snow in
the mountains. The warm winds will
be we'll cooled by the snow in passing
over, thus lessening their destructive
tendency.
The ranch. [volume] (Seattle, Wash.) 1902-1914, 1904-06-15
Ancient and Modern Roads.

Among the men whose names will
live as long as civilization exists is
that of John l.. Macadam,, the road
builder, remarks the Thresherman' S
Review. Not only has his name be-
come part of the English language, but
the kind of road which he built has
been adopted by all civilized nations.
The ancient Romans built stone roads,
but they were very difficult, vastly
more expensive than the Macadam
roads Of modern times. They built
a substantial foundation of rock, some
times several feet in depth, and then
covered it with a pavement of large
stones. This kind of road will outlast
any other. Indeed some parts of the
Apian Way, the bull ling of which was
begun three centuries before Christ,
are still in use and in good repair
1t remained for John l.. Macadam, a
modern Englishman. to prove that the
great expenditure of time and money
required in the building of the old
Roman roads was largely wasted. He
The ranch. [volume] (Seattle, Wash.) 1902-1914, 1904-06-15
The Value of Foods.

Many articles that are eaten have no
value as true foods, because they do
not build up the body or supply force,
says the ST. Louis Interstate Grocer.
These are known as food accessories.
Among the chief food accessories are
tea, coffee, cocoa, beef tea and broth
of various kinds, together with spirits
and spices and all the garnishments of
the table that have to do with the
esthetics of eating Food accessories
may spare the tissues. That is all they
can do, though it is much. No single
one of them can repair waste, build
up or renew the broken-down cells
of the body, nor aid directly in the
maintenance of it's structure. Neither
can any of these furnish heat and
energy. Yet they are important ele-
ments in food, even essential articles
of diet, that belong to the valuable
class of non-nutritious food materials.
They are all stimulants, not foods.
Tea, coffee and cocoa furnish agree
able hot drinks that have the power
to diminish the sense of fatigue. The
irritating effects of tea, when they do
exist, are least when the stomach is
neither quite empty nor too full, con-
ditions happily present at the time of
afternoon tea.
The true nature and value of stimu-
lants are every day becoming. better
known. They are neither as good nor
as bad as sometimes supposed When
of alcohol or spirits, a stimulant may
temporarily excite the brain, cause an
The ranch. [volume] (Seattle, Wash.) 1902-1914, 1904-06-15
The Wenas Canal.

G. G. Wands has completed the pre-
liminary survey for the proposed We
mas irrigating canal. He finds the ca
nal would be about 35 miles long, with
a lateral II miles, the water being
taken out of the Naches in the vicinity
of Nile. The canal would reclaim
nearly 10000 acres of land, 1000 of
which is in the Wenas valley and the
balance in the Naches. The farmers
of the two valleys will now endeavor
to raise the money for construction.
The ranch. [volume] (Seattle, Wash.) 1902-1914, 1904-06-15

demonstrated that smooth, hard, en-
during road could be built of crushed
stone few inches in depth properly
spread and compacted on foundation
of earth.
The many points in successful mac
adam road building are Cd that the
foundation be properly constructed and
drained; (2) that the surface OF the
road be slightly curved so as to shed
water; and 60 that the surface of
the finished road be made hard and
smooth and as nearly waterproof as
possible. The last of these qualities
is secured by spreading on the stone
in layers, beginning with a layer OF
the largest fragments and finishing
with layer of very fine crushed
stone, with which some sand is often
incorporated. Each layer is well COM
pacted with a heavy roller.
Although the expense of building
macadam roads is trif1ing compared
with that of constructing a stone
paved road like that of the Roman
emperor Appius Claudius, it is still
so great as to form the principal OBJ
stacle to matchmaking modern high
ways The cost, of course, depends
largely on the ease with which suit
able stone may be secured. Where the
material has to be transported by rail
for a considerable distance the cost
is greatly increased Some of the
Massachusetts highways have cost
SO 900 to 10000 mile, while in some
other states good macadam roads have
been built for $1,000 to $4,000 per
mile.
Some friends of the good roads
movement hesitate to join in the de-
mand for national aid because they
are appalled, by the enormous expense
involved in matchmaking the entire
road mileage of the country. Such
persons are laboring under mistake.
The national aid bills now before
congress do not propose to construct
any particular kind of road. They
simply propose to Improve the public
roads," and provide for investigations
and experiments to determine the best
kinds of road material and the best
methods of road building" In a re-
cent article, Representative Brown
low says:
"My own individual opinion is that
some of the principal thoroughfares
ought to be macadamized Well in
formed road experts have estimated
that if one-tenth of the road mileage
of the country were macadamized and
the other nine-tenths were improved
in other and cheaper ways, using the
best local material available, the cost
of hauling the farm products of the
United States to market would be re-
duced one-half."
The ranch. [volume] (Seattle, Wash.) 1902-1914, 1904-06-15
PRUNING AND TRAINING THE RASPBERRY
J. F. LittOoy, Everett

may at first glance seem troublesome
and costly. 1t is, therefore, well to
mention that boy or girl will fasten
canes to the wires at the rate of an
acre per day and the cost for string is
about fifty cents. Should the canes
grow excessively tall then two wires
are used, the one above the other, the
first at Az feet and the upper at 6k
feet.
With this system instead of spread
ing the canes out fan shaped over the
hill, the tops of the canes are arched
all in one direction and between the
wires. This is done by securing the
cane to the lower wire on the incline,
then while arching allow the cane to
pass over the top wire and then the
tip is brought down and secured to the
lower wire thus completing the arch,
and the cane secures itself to the top
wire. The curve in the arch should
not be made abrupt as this would
curtail the free flow of sap. By this
method the fruit on tall canes is easily
gathered and a large per cent of ber-
ries gathered which would otherwise
have been curtailed by pruning back
a large proportion of cane. The sim
gle wire system is used where the
canes grow to medium height and
when pruned should be cut back to
about 6h feet for convenience.
The careful consideration Of the
control of the new growing canes to
avoid the production of laterals is
! very essential This is accomplished
by pulling out by hand, root and all.
the superfluous young growth, thus
focusing all the energy to the selected
canes, causing them to grow more
stocky. This system avoids the
wasteful practice of cutting out the
superf1uous canes in winter.
Superf1uous canes should never be
allowed to grow to sap the needed
vitality from the better canes, and
should be pulled out when about IL
to 10 inches tall. The essential point
in the growth of the new canes is to
keep them growing erect and thus
greatly avoid any secondary in
fuence which may stimulate the dor
mant buds to activity to produce later
ais This is accomplished by encir-
cling the canes in string secured to
the frulting canes. The string should
be brought about the canes when they
are about 2h feet tall and drawn
in such a way as to give each cane
plenty of room to develope full leaf
action. This process is repeated when
the canes are about 5 feet tall. Thus
the canes are supported to grow erect
and safe from disturbance by pickers
and cultivation.
This system affords close cultivation
to the hills and picking is made easy
With this system pruning is practical
ly eliminated while the size of the
berry and the yield are increased.
The ranch. [volume] (Seattle, Wash.) 1902-1914, 1904-06-15

acceleration of the hearts action, bring
about definite sensation of muscular
vigor, or some general sense of ex
pansion and power. Such action may
permit the evolution of energy, but
never furnishes it.
The ranch. [volume] (Seattle, Wash.) 1902-1914, 1904-06-15
Launch for Sale.

A new 21 foot launch, completely
equipped, brass finishings and fitted for
salt water use. A bargain. Address
G. M. Boyle, sc Downs Bldg, Seattle
Perrysburg journal. (Perrysburg, Wood Co., O. [Ohio]) 186?-1965, 1904-09-23

with scars that it is utterly impossible
for him to induce perspiration even in
the hottest weather. Said he to
Chicago Tribune Reporter:
See these bow-legs? Got that way
from carrying rebel lead had
caught the bulk of the bullets fired
by the confederacy, and along to-
ward the close of the war l was
walking lead mine. The enemy had
nearly exhausted their ammunition.
and, as | was known to have the
most of it, became valuable. In fact.
jeff Davis finally offered reward OF
$4,000 for my capture, dead or alive"
What did he want with you?"
asked young man who had never
been in the war.
Boil me down and get the lead out
OF my system. Used as 1 was to
scenes of carnage and war, the thought
of being run through a smelter and
nodded into bullets took the patriot
ism out of me for little while.
had nc particular use for the lead my
sell, still, | didn't want to part with
it under these circumstances.
DID they capture you?
Eyes. 1t wasn't a week before thd
fighting spirit got into me again, and
went out on the skirmish line One
day | was about seven miles ahead OF
the army looking for Johnnies, when g.
squad of rebel cavalry surrounded
me. They wasn't sure 1T was
me, but the fact that l was so far
ahead of the army and the scars on
my person, along with my warlike ap-
pearance, led them to think that l
was the right man. So they attacked
me, but 1 pulled my saber and spitted
two men with it, and was making for
third before | was conquered. Then
they started for the rebel lines.
ION the way to camp they stopped
on a high bluff overlooking the Ten
nessee river and went off on a raid,
leaving me in charge of one soldier
| and dog. Before leaving they head
| ed me up in a barrel and left 1t stand
| ing near the edge of the bluff. BY
and by the rebel on guard went to
sleep, and | thought of plan of es-
cape Sticking my hand out through
the bunghole, | whistled softly to the
dog. He came smelling around, and
as soon as he got close enough
grabbed him by the tail. He gave a
yelp and jump, upsetting the cask
which rolled over the cliff and busted
open. | swan the river, and just as
was crawling up the bank the rebel
fired two muskets at me. l got away
taking his bullets with me-"
Perrysburg journal. (Perrysburg, Wood Co., O. [Ohio]) 186?-1965, 1904-09-23
THE CANDIDATES. GLAD HOUR.

do not mind the shaking hands,
Nor introductions right and left,
Nor bang and blare OF busy bands
BY which the trembling air is cleft
But, o. ! have to smile and smile,
To scatter sunshine every place!
I'm thankful for each little while
When 1 may partly rest my face
The delegations come and go, ~
Committeeman drop in to chat
A smile I've always got TO show;
always must remember that
Although this constant smiling lends
To ones campaigning work a zest
I'm happy when good fortune sends
chance to give my face a rest
Shake hands and smile; smile and shake
hands;
Arise and bow with winning smile;
Smile, 10 the footing of the bands!
] feel just like a crocodile!
Ihe weary muscles of my cheeks
Seemed stretched TO hold my mouth
agape-
I'm but slave who thus bespeaks
a chance TO get his face In shape.
Al! morning and all afternoon
And half the night my smile is on,
Dnril think of what boon
'Tworld be we're 1t forever gone
Alas. Not mine 10 question why
Ny duty is to smile, and walt,
And pray that tho long hours may fiy
SO that ms face may soon get straight.
Each dream that haunts my slumber
nocks
Perrysburg journal. (Perrysburg, Wood Co., O. [Ohio]) 186?-1965, 1904-09-23

sisted on having all the details "Wny
not feed her woman hearth" he thought.
al owe her that much anyhow" So he
discussed his love calmly and phiio-
sophically, as BELTS friendly discourse,
and she discharged her responsibility
by explaining just how and where he had
misunderstood her. They parted good
friends, with an agreement to write.
So they wrote. All through her last
year at college, he received letter
every fortnight. 1t was plain, square,
and was covered with queer, indecisive
pencilings that in no way resembled the
clear, forcible thoughts that they stood
for. Nor were the thoughts familiar
The Dora he had loved had always
seemed an airy, irresponsible creature,
with face prettily odd, and manners
childish and winsome. In the letters
he read woman with ideals immovable
formed and nobler than his own
and thoughts lofty and beauti-
full. 1t was an entirely new Dora
to Benson, and he gradually grew
TO like her. Meanwhile the dainty but
terfly of his senior year fluttered and
faded, and became memory.
When spring came again, she invited
him, formally and informally, to be pres
ent at her graduation. She really wished
his presence, and counted on it, But he
made a polite excuse, and did not go.
And the reason was simple and human.
He felt that if he went he would owe it
TO his sense of gentlemanly propriety
to renew his suit, and he couldn't bring
himself to make love to the new Dora.
The dear, charming old Dora was dead
Perrysburg journal. (Perrysburg, Wood Co., O. [Ohio]) 186?-1965, 1904-09-23
WAS wALKHo LEAD MINE.
Illinois Man Tells Startling Stories
of His Adventure During
the Civil War.

The man who saved the union lives
in Chicago. He bears innumerable
scars on his body, and is the hero OF
many hair-breadth escapes. Each re-
curing date, every battle sltirmish or
accidental discharge of firearms dur
ing the war is the anniversary of the
day on which he was shot, either
through the head or body.
In this way he saved the lives of
thousands of soldiers who otherwise
would have been killed The business
Of his life in those stirring times was
stopping bullets intended for other
people, and he got no thanks for it,
either With a sublime disregard for
his personal safety, he was always in
the front rank making breastwork Of
himself When not engaged in actual
battle he was always hustling along
several miles in advance of the army
looking for lead intended for his COM
rades His body is scared and glazed
Perrysburg journal. (Perrysburg, Wood Co., O. [Ohio]) 186?-1965, 1904-09-23
UP MISSIONARY RIDGE.

over the top Of the ridge and down
to the other side, passing through three
lines of confederates that had been
held there as reserves.
The flag that l carried TO the sum
nit of Missionary Ridge and back
again that day was presented to the
regiment by the ladies of New Phila-
delphia, o., and l have the flag in my
possession to-day. was the fourth
man to enlist in company G, November
4, 1861, and was discharged February
IA, 1865. / believe I am as old a
color bearer as there is living, who
started in 1861. was born June
28, 1s21.--Jacob Darst. in National
Tribune.