The Montgomery advertiser., 1904-03-13
to preserve the tone of the lace better than anything elee

to preserve the tone of the lace better than anything else.
 There is a marvellous chapter to be written upon the scenting of Iaces and the woman who is keen on the subject
 can so scent her lace that 1t will smell as though 1t just came out of the laven- der chest. This Is done by keeping t in chest which is lined and scented
 with lavender and to keep the lavender fresh requires some addition to the chest every week.
 One of the most charming little effects of the whole year was produced by a woman who worea visiting gown of black. all black. with the inevitable trimming of very fancy buttons. There was a lit- tie shoulder cape, for 1t was two-piece suit. But the front was open and this gave an opportunity for the display of a very fancy vesting.
 This woman, who is very delft. took a French model and copied it exactly She made a little vest of white bioadcioth, which she embroidered by hand down the front in military fashion, using sgold silk. gold braid and small brass buttons. The buttons were caught with little straps of silk braid and, white silk braid was used In the embroidery scheme. This way of trimming as.white vest front Is heart fly recommended to the woman who Is going to wear a plain cloth suit for spring and who relies upon her vest for ele- | gance.
 The stocks plays an important part. for 1t matches the embroidery of the vest It is carried out in yellow silk, in mar row bold braid and in a fem turquoise, ana IS finished with very narrow gold | bratdtng around the upper edge and, around the lower part. A brass button finishes the little front tabs. which are united with a white silk loop
 YouHcan do such a lot with the plain est of. cloth suits if only there is an op- portunity for vest with its beautiful decorations Many of the handsomest suits now come with three vests, an em- broicered chamois vest. with Oriental em- broidery upon its front; white cloth vest carried out in gold and brass but tons, and vest of blue trimmed with | silver and gold
 l The Uses of Gold and Silver.
 The terms silver and gold are used, lightly in the fashion world whereas | oncs they were used cautiously, becauSc they represented the expenditure of so much money. But such is not now the case. and one can go as resplendent as a gdttertng monarch without giving up more than would be the price of any baser metal In her visiting costume the smart wo- man who likes striking effects can 20 ] all showy as a belted earl The bets made of metal links are in again and her waist can glitter like the sun from Il the mock jewels that are to be found in the belt.
 There are very few handsome gowns | which do not sport little gold and si!- yer and some are largely trimmed with it. for, there are silver incrustatIons upon | the waist and there are silvered panels upon the skirt, all done by hand, and made out of the finest and most delicate, the thinnest, yet the most brilliant of silver braid. The designs are intricate, and the pattern is fairly stiff with silver
 One very effective way to use Very narrow gold braid is to border cloth pam | els with 1t. These are used to trim skirts and also to strap waists. And just | along the edge there can be placed veiy ! narrow border of gold braid. Every ] three or four inches there can be planted a brilliant little gold button.
 The best dressmakers are actually copying the military coats. So far as trimmings are concerned, and. you will notice. if you study the braided designs, that they are patterned after those seen In the coats of the militia. F
 Yet while the military trimmings az e in style the military coats are not. Gel lars are not as severe as military collars and the sleeves of spring are certainty not military sleeves. On the contrary, they are large and loose and many of them are built on the granny order, which shows a very large, very loCGe sleeve, almost without shape. yet grow ing steadily larger, toward the wrist. and finally ending in cuff at the hand. This iS far removed from miiitarism, for it IS pure feminine in it's tendency.
 About the Visiting Cuff.
 The visiting cuff is "a joy forever as long as the gown lasts. It is novel in its style, being of mary unique shapes. not at all like the stiff. long, tight cuff which formerly finished so many sleeves.
 One of the prettiest of shapes Is the cuff which is slashed at the back with the opening finished in two rounding cor ners. It is a tailor-made cuff with d lingerie cuff below 1t.
 'sTo make the prettiest cuff of the year a tailor-made cuff," says modiste, take a stiff tight, round cuff about six inches deep and it 1t to the arm. Do not have 1t too close and do not slope it. Its shape must be as straight as a linen cuff.
 ''Now take this cuff and slash it at the back, cutting 1t almost through. Round off the corners. line the cuff with silk and finish with fancy buttons. put ting four along the opening.
 This kind or a cuff is becoming to the hand and more. It gives an opportunity for the wearing of knife-plaited ruffies that will fall down over the hand. These ruff1es are finished with lace or chiffon, big, loose, fluffy and beautiful"
 Another Very pretty cuff Is one that flares. This cuff. which is almost as deep as the elbow, is open in a big bell shape. This bell Is lined with rufi1es Of lace. One of these bell cuffs was lined with ruffies of taffeta with their edges pinked. Another was lined with silk ruff fies which were bordered with fringe There are many ways of trimming these inner Things or cuffs.
 A sleeve that Is beautiful in It's sim plicity is made in melon fashion, with all of the melon Falling below the arm. lt is stiffened and baggy in its tendency instead of hanging limp. This sleeve was finished with deep cuff of lace, which was transparent and trimmed with oanos Of taffeta and satin, one very glossy anu the other very dull
 Fitting the Spring Gown.
 It seems almost as though the spring gown were not to be fitted at all, for all of It's tendencies are toward looseness' The waists are bloused in the front i The skirts are full and are cut in sweep ing fashion ana the sleeves are large and very much shc::ned to take on melon granny blouse and dropping shapes'