Bisbee daily review., 1904-06-12
Triumphant Season
 of Shirt Waist Suit
HAS CLAIMED EVERY MATERIAL, EVERY COLOR. EVERY TRIM.
 MING DEVICE.
IL Is Plain and Fancy-Two Dollars and One Hundred DcIisrs-Worn for the Office and for the Afternoon Tea. Al Church and a Golf Course.
(By Mary Annable Fanton.) )


 ous trimming device: it is plain and fancy-two dollars and one hundred dollars. It is worn for the office ana Tor the afternoon tea It is seen al church and on the golf course.
 The very newest are made witt short skirts. The Wiehe model. which escapes an inch in front and tilts uy at the back a full inch and a half This is the smartest shiTt-waist skirt that has ever been devised. It was made the vogue last winter by the pretty French actress. who danced rag time with adorable chicness. and was a brilliant comedian as well.
 All of Mme Wiehe's street frocks' on the stage were distinctly short, and always an inch shorter at the back than in the front. Some were plaited and other circular. and occasionally The dark tailor-made tweeds were lin. ed with vivid red or daffodil-yellow with frou-frou petticoat 10 match.
 These skirts were so new and SC smart. and yet strange enough. for fashion from Paris, so sensible that their vogue was instantaneous and per. manent. Mime. Wiehe had not finish. ed her engagement at Mrs. Osborn's doil playhouse when her songs were being whistled on Broadway. and her chic little butterfly skirts copied on Fifth Avenue.
 A shirt-waist with long skirt is the exception No matter what the style Of the waist, the skirt escapes Ii IS so wholesome, so comfortable and so smartly pretty a fashion that one marvels if women will have the cour. age 10 return to the heavy dragging skirts again-but they will. Common sense does not mean permanency in a fashion
 The type of American girl who is just now the fashion is broad over the shoulder. full over the bust. straight in the spine, and moderately small about the hips. The new gowns all accent this figure. The waists are Very broad at the shoulders, many of them dropping down on the arms. 1880 style, and loose at the chest.
 And the waist-line of the modern girl is good four inches larger than her mothers was at her age. It's a comfortable waist that doesn't suggest dyspepsia and twisted frame work.
 The skirt of the shirt-waist suit is Ike the figure of the athlete girl. slen- der about the hips, not thin so that her clothes drag in a shapeless fash ion, but trim and distinctly small in proportion to her fine shoulders.
 Pongee is fashionable to the point Of being vogue fer these suits. In every color and in the natural raw-siIk hue IL wears well, and is graceful and not common. And linen is good style. also. in colors and in all its own shades. and crash and chambray. ging. nam, cotton cheviot, tweed and vest ing.
 The fancy waists usually button in the back, and the simple shirt-waist models with shirt sleeves and a but. tonhole plait. They are all unlined in waist and skirt, and made so that they will launder without ripping apart and the sleeves are usually this sum- mer's new design, little fullness at the shoulder, very little at the cuff. and marked and very comfortable breadth at the elbow.
 With white taffeta stocks. there are leather crush belts to match in color. and if you are very smart your petit. coat is the same color With linen and pongee, tan belts and white Madras stocks are worn. and with dark silk suits. stock and belts match, or are Of Oriental design.
 There is also bit of a fad for gold and silver braid belts with gold and silver bullet buttons On the linen frocks. It's new and pretty and not as showy as 1t sounds.
 The prettiest footwear with the shirt-waist is tan or champagne color, or white, the latter in canvas. but very smartly designed and quite as ex. pensive as leather or kid, and with stockings to match exactly. very thin stockings. either plain, gauze or open work silk or lisle. No heavy stock. ings for any sort of wear, except noun tain climbing and hunting.
 And the new shirt-waist mats gre all trimmed not to match the diess, but in some neutral color scheme or sIl- SO thdA Ol1t SAhdil EiJ udL be effectively worn with half dozen suits, and look quite correct with each.
 The newest are of stitched linen or crash. and trimmed with sea-fs nf rnn gee or grass linen or crepe de chine. with a simple breast feather curling about the crown. They are wora or the head, not as floating background or sail unfurled in the wind. h. deed. on sunshiny days they dip down trifle over the forehead an1 actual ly shade the eyes, thing that a hat has not been known to io in several summers.
 Most women who have 70 -economize at all rather dread a summer when cotton frocks are in vogue. It means so much laundry work. and usually pretty frocks are ruined in the wash. But if woman will take a personal interest in the work, and either do her pretty dresses herself, or carefully explain to the washwoman how to do them correctly, there is no need of the least injury to the most delicate fab 7ic of the palest hue.
 With the DrOuer method there is