Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-23

bewildering array of white waists to be
worn with white skirts: exquisite silk and
wool fabrics and silks to combine with
white cloth skirts; the smartest Of ducks
and linens to wear with washable pedes-
TRAN skirts; and for the white taffetas and
foulard skirts there comes a most entfcing
collection of lace weaves, silk -striped gren-
adines. nets. lawns. organdies and dimi-
ties
For instance. the summer girl. with hops
in view at the country club or the athletic
club house, will make her pretty skirt of
white serge do for various occasions. Is 1T
a tennis tourney at which she would look
particularly fit ard well groomed? She
will wear with her white serge skirt a
blouse of silk and wool in the same shade
of white.
Deep 1880 Yoke.
The deep 1880 yoke, pointed back and
front and running down over the shoulder,
will be quite plain and smooth and out
lined with heavy, conventional pattern In
embroidery or silk applique. The blouse is
tucked from this yoke to the waist line,
and an embroidered cuff. with a crush silk
belt, completes the simple costume. -
If it is the informal evening hop, she
wears with the same skirt blouse of thin,
clinging silk, such as India or China silk.
The yoke is fashioned from strips of silk
half an inch wide joined by fagoting and
patterned at the front point of the yoke in
a great bowknot. The finest of tucks run
from yoke edge to waist line, where they
fly open. giving'a pretty bloused effect. Lace
medallionS may be added, but the fagoting
and tucks sufficient for waist that is
to be worn at an informal dance.
For wear with the black skirt. which is a
positive necessity winter or summer for
every Well-dreSsed woman, there are dainty
studies in soft silks and mousselines. The
women who rejoiced In pointed effects
should try this pattern
The foundation is a lining Of lightweight
India silk-black of course-and over this Is
shirred yoke of mousseline de soie which
falls well over the shoulders, and in. the
front reaches to point considerably below
the bust line.
Gain Two Points.
This yoke is shirred only at the neck and
where it meets the blouse proper. The lat
ter Is formed of gagged or shirred mousse
line, with the cords about three inches
apart. each shirring following the pointed
lines of the yoke. In this way a woman
may enjoy the fashionable shirred effects
and still retain the long. slender lines Of
her figure.
The sleeve is bloused and caught into q
Deep pointed cuff of black guipure lace. A.
pointed collar of the same lace and gauzy,
black hair ornament will change the simple
black taffeta skirt, with its pinked ruch-
ings. into dignified dinner toilette.
A black crepe messaline blouse has
simulated yoke, made from tnnumerable
little tucks coming to a point in the center
of the front and narrowing toward the
shoulder until they form another point over
the sleeve. Outlining the yoke effect are
applioues Of black silk cluny In circular
pattern underlaid with white chiffon.
The striking features of the newest
blouses are the prevalence of broderie
dAnglaise for trimming. and the extrav-
agance of the yokes.
Early go Effects.
Broderie d'Anglaise is about as new az
most of the prevailing fashions-that Is
it dates back clearly to the early sixties.
In those days our grandmothers laborious-
ly punched holes in cotton cloth with
sharp-pointed instruments of ivory. Then
they buttonhole stitched the holes and en-
broidered vines and flowers around them.
The young woman Of today haunts the
bargain counters for an exaggerated and
elaborated reproduction of her grandmoth-
er's needlework. done entirely by machine.
with holes as big as the petals of flowers
and embroidery that Is simply bewildering
In its variety of designs.
Shirt waist sets can be secured In this
popular trimming including yokes, cuffs
and collars. or single bands to outline
Jokes. fronts and cuffs The finest ex-
amples of the work come In linen, though
it is simulated on wooden and sink ma
terialsi 1t Is an extremely broad fashion
of decoration and must not be used In
too large a measure by the very small
woman.
For a very tall woman of admirable car.
rage there comes an elaborate linen blouse
in which broderie dAnglaise plays an Inn
portant and striking part. The body of
the blouse is tucked in fine pin-lines run
ming up and down. but the vest section
taperfng to the waist line. has tucks run
ming crosswise. On either side of this vest
runs band of the broderie. and it also
runs from the collar to point two or
three inches below the shoulder on the
sleeve.
The deep. pointed cuff Is fashioned en-
tirely Of the broderie. and the inside seam
of the bloused sleeve Is outlined with the
same decoration. Belt and collar are also
fashioned from the broderie so that only