Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-02-13

PARIS, January 30, 1904.
1t has become the fashion among the
smart Partisan mondaines to ply the needle;
indeed the farce of the needle is the fash
ionable play over here. Dainty little pieces
of embroidery and rolled up en- gmas are to
be found in the hands of our elegantes when
they are seen at home Like the women of
the middle ages, who worked standards for
their lords these Partisan triflers are sup
posed to be at work upon wastcoats for
their husbands, brothers or friends But.
let me whisper in your ear, the pieces of
embroidery are almost all finished at
shop near the Madeleine. where they make a
specially of helping out needlework posers.
Some one has said that the woman who
really knows how to embroider is as extinct
as politeness. Let US hope there is mis-
take in each instance
The life of a fashion chronicler during
these transition days of modes Is not
pleasant one. peSsm site person not long
since remarked that conversat on generally
consisted of three big pS+digestion, do
meStics; and dress. Small talk it would be
literally if we depended right now upon au-
thoritative dress statements. We are told
that the modes of the future will be perfect
Iy charming. Sleeves will not be abnormally
large. but becomingly full, and the same
prediction is made concerning skirts, but
the "1oby's or not Tobys.' as Mrs. Par
-
vague. Killed walking skirts and shorter
coats are among the advanced spring pre-
dictions. There is a lovely chiffon chalIie
which promises all sorts of good things in
the way of 1880 creations.
Anent the Victorian 1890 skirts. in heavier
materials they are to have Sloped seam
running up the center front to bring about
the requisite shapelincss. The immediate
effect of this improvement is amazing for,
with no detriment to the old world appear
ance of fullness there is the desirable addi-
ton of form, together with the smart sill
houette which is recognized as the con-
summation of grace
Back to Challies.
To come back to challie, this material in
light effects rivals pompadour silk in beauty
at about a third the price. Every spring
fabric seems to be chiffoned and veloured,
if may use the terms. almost out of
recognition, not excepting the nIohairs,
which make up into the prettiest kind of
shirt waist gowns. Voiles and eoliennes,
both plain and fancy, are going to lead in
the inexpensive materials, and many Of
the former have insertions interviewer for
trimming purposes. Fabrics with lace eff
fects are assured us, and, with the old-time
hair stripes in dimities, have given place TO
designs of large dots. The novelty of the
new dmitieS centers in these dots. which
are not solid, but worked out in colors like
an Indian shawl. The new soft taffetas
have magnetic charm in color and form.
Immense quantities of lace will be used
on both day and evening gowns. and one of
the eccentricities of fashion fads is to trim
cloth with the lighter kinds of lace, prefer
ably ValencienneS and chantilly and the
thin goods with the heavy Irvine and cluny.
Dyed lace exactly matching the frock,
which has been such a success here this
winter, Will be la mode this spring and
summer.
a New Method
\ very dainty fashion of treating lace of
an openwOrk pattern is to insert under
round motifs raised fiower-like designs CT
panne velvet. On gown of gray Grape
adorned with honitOn lace the bodice
bertha had applications Of rose panne I'M
der the lace rose designs. With wrinkled
ceinture of panne and a suspicion OF the
same velvet at neck and wrists the effect
of this gown was charming.
The doom of the lingerie rufie has been
spoken Though the edict may be defied a
few months longer, it viii be replaced later
by frCufrOus of self colored chiffon or old
lace
Although brown is a warm shade for hot
weather il promises to be, as it has been
this winter. one of the fashionable spring
colors, sharing popularity with ecru. Some
shades of brown have a particular cachet
when worn by woman whose hair and
eye coloring tone in with that of her frock.
In taffeta the brown frock is very smart
when trimmed with bands of velvet ribbon
ana a touch of old world tinted lace at
throat and wrists. a taffeta dress in la
modes latest color-ecru-has bands of
mordore velvet a relieving note. This
velvet On the waist is used bretelle fashion
and finishes a the bust line with tasseled
ornaments of ecru chenille. The chemisette.
collar and sleeve rufies are made of cream
ColOred lace
In Dead Leaf Brown.
At a fashionable restaurant the Other
evening l was fascinated by a gown of
dead leaf brown crepe de chine and equally
astonished TO find this dress effective, as
had never thought brown a suitable color