Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-06-18
.O|RECTO|RE STYLES
Very Fashionable Now in
Lingerie.
STIRRING IN VOGU E
ExTRAyAGANcE IN MATERIALS
AT ITS HEIGHT.
Fine Beading for Seams Of Hand
Wrought Gar
ments.
STIRRING IN VOGUE
Written for The Evening Star.

Written for The Evening Star.
Three distinctive features of incoming
styles In lingerie are the marked tendency
toward colored effects, the directoire in
fiuence, and the increasing delicacy of the
ia brics employed.
There are many women to whom white
will always appeal for lingerie. particularly
VIXEN worn under transparent vests, but
these women will be sorely tempted by the
methods employed for introducing colors
into the most delicate of underwear. For
instance, there is a charming example In
Icderie d'Anglaise done on the finest OF
white nainsook in tiny patterns of exqui-
site cooring, palest pink, blue, lavender.
81 cen. and yellow. Yokes, square, round,
and V-shaped, are peppered with fine eye
let work. the edges are finished in small
scallops to correspond, and where there Is
too much fullEesS, a succession of button-
holes is worked just below the ScallopS,
and ribbons to match the embroidery are
run through these AS a rule, very little
embroidery is used, but 1t is exceedingly
fine in workmanship.
The. batistes and lawns are more pro-
nounced in coloring. They are printed in
the same pale colorings which have been
in vogue for summer frocks. pure white
ground is employed. and the flowers CHOSEN
are exceedingly delicate, such as forget
me-nots. pale pink hawthorn. single yellow
roses and palest violets. These are used
for making entire sets, from drawers 10
night gowns, and are trimmed with very
fine quality of narrow lace ana rlpDonS W
match the flowers.
The conservative woman who wants just
a touch of color in her lingerie secures II
by the use of ribbons, and the popularity
of broderie dAnglaise,. with It's many eye
let's done in white, gives her ample oppor-
tunity for running ribbons without employ
ing beading.
A Fair Supply Only.
Directoire influence, as shown in under
wear proves that when the twentieth CEN
fury girl is married she no longer plans
trousseau lingerie which is to last her for
many years. There are styles in lingerie as
we'll as in blouses, and the up-to-date girl
! makes only enough lingerie to last during
the prevailing vogue.
The directoire styles will prevail in fall
gowns; hence it behooves the summer glTi
who is devoting her mornings on the porch
to the making of handwrOught lingerie 10
study the directoire styles. For Instance,
there is exhibited at St. Louis some French
convent work which is notable for Its sug-
gestions of drectore styles.
A night dress of the finest battste is cut
with a deep square neck and half sleeves.
The empire waist effect is secured by fine
tucks just above and below the bust, with
a loose Duff in between, and the square
neck is outlined with bands built up from
square medallions. Every other medallion
shows tiny flower design. and the alter
nate ones have small figures in Louis XIII
costume, all in the most exquisite embroid-
cry The sleeves are shaped deliberately,
the puff being gathered in the bands similar
to those used for outlining the neck, and
the epaulet of embroidery in small flowers
falls in deep points over the puff
Pretty Models.
Another drectore hint is shown in the
short-waisted night dress and chemise.
The waist of the former Is built entirely of
puffs or shirrings. supported by bands of
fine embroidery, which come up to a point
in the front of the decollete neck, giving
the effect of shirred boleros. The finish Is
a rosette, not of ribbon. but of exquisite
lace embroidery. from the heart of which
hang long ribbon ends-baby ribbon being
much used with this fine embroidery The
sleeves are narrow puffs. or. in the case of
the chemise or corset covers. they are tied
across the shoulder with ribbon bows.
Stirring is being used most effectively on
corset covers, and appeals particularly to
the slender woman, who favors any mode
of trimming which will make her shirt
waist stand out in rounded lines.
For the same woman by the way, there
comes again this year the convenient shirt
waist dstender built from ruffies of en-
broidery or cambria edged with lace. These
are applied to a plain vest or dcky of the
ing braid, and the distender is hooked to
the corset cover.
When Well Made.
The increasing popularity of the chemise
is due also to the directoire fad. The Pa
risian woman has always inclined toward
this garment, but the American woman has
viewed 1t with suspicion. as being cumber-
some at the waist line. The French wo-
man wears it next to her skin, under her
corset. She has it made short to a point
just above the knees, and the fullness al
the waist line is obviated by the use of
cores
AS to materials, there is nothing too fine
for lingerie wrought by hand Wash chif-
fon. fine batiste, and the flmest of China
silk are employed. A chemise built from
one of these fabrics can be crushed in one
hand. They require the most delicate en-
broidery by hand and real lace trimmings
For general use nainSook is most satisfac-
tory, as it combines with ordinary embroid-
cry and lace to the best advantage. The
vogue of broderie d'Anglaise calls for a
heavier grade of linen, such as our grand
mothers used for their trousseaux. This is
finished in scallops and will last a lifetime
The girl who yearns for hand-Wrought
clothes. but who has little time to give to
such work, will find some valuable aids in
the shops For instance, there are little
Jokes for corset covers, night gowns and
chemiseS done in machine embroidery
which are an admirable imitation of hand
work BY setting these into her homemade
underwear with fine beading she can secure
very good effects. If she would give an ex-
ira touch of smartness, let her write her
initials i'll small letters and embroider them
IN the simplest of satin stitch. This is
more up to date than the heavy, fantastic