The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-01-15

NEW YORK, Jan. I've have had our
first showing of shirtwaists here I'm Gotham,
and exceptionally attractive they are. While
no startling novelties have appeared, styles
are varied and becoming and materials are
dainty. Al could have been foretold. white
predominates. In fact, in this first showing
few colors are to be seen, although, as a
matter of course, they will appear later
and will be found admirable, as they al
ways are. for the waists OF hard usage. in
spite Of the favor shown white. Materials
are almost all things. Much of the heavy
vesting is shown. and, in sharp contrast,
many hlmy mulls, while filling the inter-
vening space are weights and qualities of
all sorts.
AS a safe general rule the finer, hand
somer waists close at the back, only the
tailored ones at the front. but, In common
with all rules, this one has its exceptions.
and some dainty creations are offered that
are closed either visibly or invisibly at the
front. A few of us may cavil, we may ex-
claim against the bother. the annoyance.
make all the fuss we like, ii has been
proved that p~rettier effects can be obtained
by the unbroken front, and the unbroken
front has taken a firm place. individuals
may eschew ii If they will, certain prosaic.
common sense folk may insist upon conven-
fence before all else, the closing at the back
remains and must remain while such effects
as those now I'm vogue are sought. AS a
rule 1t is invisible, and is always better so.
but whether 1t is seen or not it's existence
remains a fact.
The more elaborate waists are made of
many things, fine null, sheer linen lawn,
batiste, embroidery, lace. thin silks. silk
muslins and what not, but are smartest and
most elegant when embroidered, the work
done on to the material, not applied. A
most exquisite model is of fine white null.
heavily embroidered in the French raised
style. The design is one of roses, and there
is a deep border that meets at the center
front over fine tucking, while scattered
about over the entire fabric is an all-over
design. AS a matter of course the material
is made in waist patterns. In no other way
could the result be obtained, and there are
many designs, but the general effect Is
always the same, and the waists are all
charming in the extreme. Others are made
of fabrics embroidered In all-oVer designs,
and are tucked in a way to make the de,
Sign snow at its best. one that L noted
specially is of fine null, with embroidered
discs OF green and white that are quite as
big as a scent piece. and which are SO
drawn together by the tucks as to form
stripes. The discs, by the way, and the
tiniest of tiny tucks make notable features,
and may be looked for the season through.
In some instances the former become as
big as silver half dollars, while in others
they are varied in size, all sorts, from tiny
10 big, being seen in a single design, but in
some shape they are apt TO appear more
often than any other one thing. The tuckS
are the smallest possible, but often, indeed
frequently, combined with wider ones to
obtain the fullness without which no waist
is really pretty or becoming. The small
tucks are used in groups, and are really
only pinches of the cloth, but make an ex-
aaaIfRg1xy 1ncfrah1n affapf xrhf1a the xVfHar
ones serve the practical purpose already
mentioned.
VARIETY IN SLEEVES.
Sleeves are of several sorts, but the pre-
vailing styles for these finer waists are full
and soft with cuffs three inches wide for
the simpler ones, deeper for those of greater
elaboration. The pulled portions are tucked
or plated at the shoulders and for several
inches below, then allowed to fall softly
and are gathered into the cuffs. These last
are closed when narrow, open at the outer
seam when deep and held together by tiny
lace buttons and loops, so being made to
fit the arms snugly and smoothly. Still an
other sort combines deep gauntlet cuffs
with full. wide puffs that drOop over them
TO give a bell effect. or with actual bell
sleeves over foundation ones OF some very
thin material. AS any practically-minded
woman will see at a glance, the former
launder far more readily and are, therefore,
preferred for all washable fabrics, but the
bell models are exceedingly graceful and
charming and are much seen in the crepes
de chine and habutai silks that are SO well
liked. A charming model of the latter sort
is combined with heavy lace and is most
effective while simple. Its sleeves are in
the bell shape just described over gauntlet
cuffs of lace and the waist is tucked. finely,
for about two inches at the center front.
then trimmed with lace at each side, the
edges of which are concealed under wider
tucks. and with extensions of the lace that
form epaulets and fall well over the
sleeves. giving the dropping line. which Is
decreed for many months 10 come. Ecru and
white and Irvine color and white are to
be noted and appear in many OF the finest
waists. \ dainty one that is not overcom-
plicated is made entirely OF alternating
three-quarter-inch tucks OF white batiste
and ecru lace insertion of the same width
at the front. Each tuck is "A mass or tiny
ones on top SO giving a most novel effect