The Montgomery advertiser., 1904-09-11

mannish girl is still with us and for her there is the rasterre skirt. or, as some dressmakers call 1t, the swing clear" style. that escapes the ground by at least a full inch and topped with a coat that shows little if any of the frivolous trim mings of the time.
 For the dressier tailor-mades, however those which Paris distinguishes as the demi-taileur mode, there is simply no limit to the extravagances that can be in- | dulged. Cloths are trimmed with velvets. braids-most of them showing more or less some little glint of gold in the weave buttons Of strange shapes and sizes 1 ruching. scalloping. shocking; all these and more are accepted on the dressieT productions of the man tailor.
 Sheer, supple and svelte are the watch words where cloth is concerned. Voiles. and the silk ones are exquisite, chiffon broadcloths, chiffon siciliennes, the new plaids with a surface like dull leather that are to replace to some extent tho little checks that have been with us for some seasons. the heavier silks, such as faille franchise, grosgrain and to a lim- I ited degree the moires; all of these have already been greeted with enthusiasm for the new seasons wardrobe
 These will take velvet as A trimming, for now no costume is considered com
 plete without it's little touch Of velvet
 somewhere. It may be n fancy collar, A
 belt. or the new breteles; or 1t may fin ish the foot ruffle which is just beginning to make its reappearance after a long
 absence. But no matter where the touch of velvet be posed, the fact that 1t is there and in evidence Is the thing.
 This little foot ruffle makes very
 dainty finish to almost any skirt, but 1t must only be applied where there is
 sufficient stiffness in the skirt to support 1t we'll for if it should sag at all, the result would be deplorable. In many in- stances a finch bias of velveteen or cor
 duroy Is used to face up the hem, the
 edge being dropped tho fraction of an
 inch below tho skirt to form n binding, or the drop skirt Is provided with an in-
 terlining of princess haircloth which falls
 in soft folds quite in accordance with
 the newest mode. One clever couturtere is furnishing her customers with silken petticoats with this haircioth interiinnE
 the circular fiouncc, the under side of a
 strong percallne so that it will not cut
 Cut early in its career and this one petti-
 coat then gives just the correct down
 ward and outward line 10 The lower part of all the dress skirts.
 While the fancy for the costume on
 suite is gaining favor daily, the little sep
 arate blouse still holds It's own niche in
 the heart of the fashionable woman.
 There are so many missions for it to fill-
 of course for extremely formal occas-
 ions it's reign is Over Even its most en-
 thusiastic adhercnt must acknowledge
 that. But there arc those little lunch
 cons. those dinners en fan,iile, the times
 when the casual caller must be received.
 and for such occasions the separate waist
 is simply invaluable.
 With the coat and skirt suits some kind
 or another of a separate waist is tndis-
 pensable, whether 1t be of the severe
 shIrtwaist order and fashioned of tollc,
 soleliane or madras. or of the dresser or-
 der in silk, lacc or velvet-and in any of
 these do not neglect tho dress shield-
 one just cannot get away from the sep aTats blouse