The San Francisco call., 1904-04-10

Madame has a figure which
viii be charmingly set off by,
say. light spring tone, developed in a
light spring material" and the man
dressma6er bowed still lower.
The place was New York, and the
scene a very fashionable dressmaking
establishment for women. 1t was one
Of those spots which are sometimes
playfully called "Lenten retreats" for
it is here that fashionable women fee
at the beginning Of Lent to spend the
dull social days selecting gowns for the
next season.
And, if beauty bears any relation TO
goodness-and who can deny it?-
there is abundant excuse for the little
gxcursion. for nothing prettier could
possibly be imagined than the interior
Of a fashionable shop during Lent
There is only one thing in the world
better than Paris" said the New York
woman, signing enviously as she looked
at the sheer stuffs, "and that is the in
terror OF a handsome American estab-
lishment. for over here they have at
fractions which even the Partisan
dressmakers do not have"
j
man dressmaker, spreading out a beau
tiful banana colered voile. for she
should wear a suit of this description.
Madame is dark, rather slight not too
tall and very well shaped. Madame
would look lovely in this"
The suit in question was of a light
banana, not yellow enough to be warm
when the July days come, nor too light
81
durable quality Of voile, one of those
voiles which wear like cashmere and
can be actually washed and made over
when one is tired of the original style.
The suit was a 'three-piece suit" as
the dressmaker indicated, and was
made with an 1880 skirt, with a lace
blouse and an Elton Jacket. 1t was
trimmed with bands of Persian en-
broidery, and the lace blouse was dyed
brown color to match the principal
tone in the embroidery.
The Three-Piece Suit.
There is no doubt that the three-piece
suit Will be the suit Of spring. And this
means the return Of tn Eton. The
three-Quarter coat will continue to be
worn, and, for outing occasions, there
viii be the very long coat. And there
viii also be the reefer, the little basque
coat and the corset coats and wraps
But the Eton will be the coat Of the
year
And the majority Of women will hail
its return with much JOY. The Eton is
coat which is becoming to the great
majority Of women. IT fits well and il
gives an opportunity for the display Of
hand-ome blouse waist 1t also al
lows woman to preserve her belt line
and 40 self-respecting woman is dead
TO the great advantage which lies in the
preservation Of the lines OF the belt.
With the coming Of the Eton there
has come a revival of the girdle. and
girdles of all styles and shapes will be
= orn this year. Neither the Eton nor
the girdle is new, but with their present
revival both OF them Will show new va
rieties which viii make them seem
novel
Girdles that are as wide as six or
eight inches and which come actually
10 the Under arm seams are fastened in
front to wide though slender buckle
and are finished with little tabs which
hang down ia very pretty fashion.
You can make or break your reputa-
ton for fashion by the way you trim
your glidle in the back. You can make
il a plain and rather old-time affair
which merits not the second glimpse. or
you can make il a very nice thing
trimmed with long wedge shaped tabs.
upon which the handsomest buttons
OF the year are literally displayed.
One Of these girdles. which is to fall
at the back Of the skirt in handsome
lengths, has tabs that are embroidered
and trimmed with Persian bands in al
ternate rows. Lace insets appear here
anc there and the girdle is finally fn-
ished with a very deep fringe, which
sets of the rather plain skirt very
handsomely in the back.
And what a holiday it is to be for