The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1904-10-23

near the hot iron. The results obtained
were not 80 good as those produced by
exposing the meat directly to the flame Of
gas.
Nine. Blay is going to add to her present
busy days the task Of introducing into New
York the French method of cooking before
the gas flame which she uses in her rotis-
serie.
think Of It's advantages" she says
'No dirt, no loss Of meat land perfect flavor"
interested Nine. Blay and although she
devotes all the time she spends away from
her rotisserie at "a Columbus avenue to
giving lessons In cooking she was not above
taking some lessons herself last summer
During the summer she said, when
the restaurants and hotels are not 80 busy.
the chefs are willing to earn little extra
money by giving lessons. These are given
at a club called Au Gordon Bleu in the Rue
St. Honore.
Il had lessons from several of the chefs
from the best known restaurants, and !!
don't think they knew anything i had
not learned before. They had no idea who
l was, and i always asked them to teach
me how to make some dish with which
was familiar. Once 1t was pate ala finan-
ciere.
"For the pastry this chef made two rows
Of it in order that the pate should be high
enough.
But I said. why do you make two
rows OF PASTRY
In order that the pate shall he high
swered.
But cannot single row Of pastry be
made high enough2' I asked, very inno-
Gently.
s'Yes, it can be- he said, but with a
pate financiere it is better to have two rows,
as that makes 1t better for holding the
sweetbreads.'
aNow, that was not true. Either he
would not make the pastry or he was too
lazy to work at it long enough to make
one piece serve.
Another chef was teaching me how to
make a timbale OF ham and spinach. The
pastry he made for the pate was not good. v
Nine. Blay's criticism Of the great chefs
Of Paris made it possible to venture such
slight impertinence to the French culinarT
art as an inquiry as to its possible deca-
dence.
WERE abe answered, "and know, for l
tried them all, from the Pavilion d'Ar-
menonville to Pailla rd's. But French cook
ing ia just as good.
foreigners who want this and that and
are not willing to take what the French
chefs provide that the cooks after while
grow indifferent and cook what they think
the foreign guests VII IKE h ana NOT Wnas
Is in accordance with the pest traoitlons
Of French cooking.
aIn the homes, French cooking is as good
as ever and the chefs In the great establish
ments are compelled to stick closely to
business and dare not grow indifferent.
II they do somebody else Ia always waiting
to take their places. There is no diminu-
lion In tbe interest that the great chefs
take in their profession. and le riep1 cut
SINE classioue is as Incompatible as ever.
aIf French cooking had lost its supr en-
aoy. why should all the courts of Europe
| have French cooks? Every summer these
men come from ST. Petersburg and Madrid,
from Vienna and Rome to learn during
| their two weeks vacation what there g
new In their profession and to meet Their
colleagues. ..,,,, ,,,, ,,ho,
Il has been affected by the appetite OF other
countries, or when chefs are neglecuul'
ss thew are when they come to this country.
Here they soon become too lazy to take
any inter est In their wo-k,
Nine. Blay did manage TO find some
novelties in Paris, and one OF these is
nortr;dpe stuffed with truffies and with
truf'es introduced under the skin. Ihen
there il a new cake called Ia relgieuse,
which she had some compunctloh ABOUT
bringing to the United States.
ahmericans eat 80 much more desser
than they need, she said, that Pesitated
to Introduce another one. But tnlan Anew
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