The Montgomery advertiser., 1904-12-11
SELF-TRIMMED GOWNS
 WIN GENERAL FAVOR

Compared with the fulsome splen- dnrs of the season-for some of the trimming effects can only be describ- ed as fulsome-the dainty frocks deck ed with their own materials stand out with a rare charm.
 At the beginning of the autumn, when half dozen fine garnitures were considered necessary for one costume. these simpler gowns were thought rather plain, The world looked for complicated needlework, lace and vel vet inset in difficult ways. embroideries further enriched by outlinings of che isiile and gold ard silver bullion. Then all at once the French frocks turned the other way. toward simplicity, till now the fastidious are inclined to be- lieve that self-trimmings, and those only in restrained quantities, achieve the truest elegance. Further, they provide opportunity for dressiness at comparatively small expense. which is certainly an important point in their favor.
 Gown materials which admit of self trimmings cover a wide field, for on The heaviest cloths one sees bias bands. rosettes and quillings of the same Those cloths whose close weaves will permit are left with raw edge on quill- fn9s and outings. Others will show trimmings narrowly hemmed, smallest pias coming in for rosette which may be held down by a metal or velvet covered button. But 1t is the texture that allows doubling for the self trimming. which is most to be discuss ed. for the quillings, pleatings rosettes, bows. etc. used upon these gowns are Tor the most part made of the doubled material.
 Cut in a bias of perhaps four inches tsffetas, veilings, soft silks and wools or numerous sorts, are seen as doubled pleatings at the edge of skimpy skirt hounces. Upon the bodice which Is round and girdled high. the same pleatlng may edge surplice cape ef- fleets. and ruche the three-quarter sleeves coquettishly
 The flat puffs-bouillones-wh were the joy of our mothers in the eos are showing a tendency to rise at the middle. Such a pun is general ly of the narrowest description, turned in and gathered at the edges in the usual way. but with a single tuck or gathering down the middle. Under the name of rose puffs, such trim mings. which are charming in figured taffetas. are sometimes made of mar row kilting. opened plain at the mid dle by the tucking and put on loosely
 A gown in spotted brown taffetas displays rose puffs of the same on the skirt and hchu-trimmed bodice A sec ond gown of gray panne shows the doubled kilting, put at the lower edge of bias bands stitched to simulate bralds.
 Different forms in founces are shown in the self-trimmed frocks. some of the bias velvet frills recalling accurately the quaint simplicities of old days. The very quilIlngs of anti quated fashion books are also used. one sort being a doubled bias made in species of hour glass box plcattng stitched through the center. Plain bias bands in different widths likewise deck a number of these gowns, and variation is sometimes made in these by having the bands in lighter or darker tint. For example. a reception gown of pale violet cloth has the skirt and bodice trimmed with a shade bordering on amethyst
 The quaint round fullness of the newest models render these band trimmings very effective for skirts. which are trimmed around the bot tom more than elsewhere. Contrasting materials are often used in them with