Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-06-18
FOR SUMMER TABLES
When Fine Fish is Ruined by
Bad Serving.
DELICATE SAUC Els
THE PROPER EQUIPMENT OF A
GOOD COOK.
The Garnishing Of the Finny Tribe
Counts as Much as Right
Cooking.


The anglers lay in the grass, smoking
after-luncheon pipes. Said the bachelor:
That fish lying in the weeds is a thing
of beauty. 1t would look well, too in the
market on a bed of ice and greenery. But,
oh, what difference when it comes to
the tablet"
IL taxes one artist to cook a fish and
make the sauce and another to garnish
it" said another man Il saw a big SAL
mon the other day served on seaweed and
shells and little net, woven from lemon,
cast over it. 1t was a dream"
We've been wondering why the white
fish had no taste on our table" remarked
the third man, and we found that our
over-cleanly maid had been soaking it all
day in pan of water"
Il bring home some pretty nice looking
fish, said the dyspeptic member of the
party, but the curse of the frying pan
is over 1t ALL"
The one woman of the party listened
and remembered
For the next few weeks she cooked fish
every day, interviewing chefs and plain
COOKS and reading cook books.
incidentally she bought hickory plank
Tor baked fish, a fish boiler and a frying
white bait. The boiler is an oval kettle
with perforated tray inside, which can
be lifted out after the fish is cooked
She. Follows the Scheme.
She has started little box of parsIev
and carrots in a sunny window in the
Kitchen, Just as the model young wife
does in the housekeeping serial. They are
for everyday garnishng. A bottle of
Kitchen bouquet is for coloring brown
sauces. and vegetable green made from
spinach is to tint green sauces and may
onnaise. '
FOR fete days she keeps on hand a bot
lle Oh the Macedoine of vegetables-car-
rots, green peas, string beans and all
sorts OF things, cooked and mixed ready
L. ~. saIHisning or for soups. Crosses and
iitsde radishes make a pretty border
some ilsh are equally good boiled broiIed
or baked. A dry fish needs a sauce and
very oily fish is best broiled and gar
nished with lemon and parsley.
Goou authorities disagree as to whether
HSh snail be started to boil in cold water
or In water heated nearly to the boiling
point. e
An eminent French chef barely covars
the f1sh to be boiled with cold water, slight
~ saited, and made acid by the addition of
several tablespoonfuls of white wine vine
gar. On the other hand a well-known
Engllshman who has made the chemistry of
cookery 600 me study; Of lifetime prefers the
hsh cooked gently for thirty or forty min
utes In water kept just below the boiling
point. He claims. and with much reason,
that the action Of the hot water and the
SAT- coagulates the juices of the fish, and
prevents the loss OF its peculiar flavor
The More Delicate.
AS a rule, fish cooked in hot water is the
more delicate. The cold water at the be-
ginning is best for fish that have strong
and decided ftavors. In either case. fish
should not boil rapidly. as the action Of the
water Will then break the skin.
oil -
and good white sauce Is the bas sis of anv
NUMBER or others. A white sauce sufficient
m quantity for two pounds of fish, is made
by taxing one tablespoonful of hour and
one one Oh Dutter and stirring them over the
nre until they bubble. Then add gradu
any one pint of boiling water. Stir until
perfectly smooth. Season with salt and
white pepper. The sauce should be as
by the addition of the juice of a lemon and
tablespoonful Of chopped parsley.
A Cream Sauce.
For a cream sauce. use half a pint of
milk or cream and half pint of hot water.
or sauce even richer. add a well-beaten
egg just before taking the mixture from
the fire.
Anchovy sauce is white sauce sea sonea
with salt. pepper and a tablespoonful, of
anchovy paste. Caper sauce is the same
mixture, with two tablespoonful of chop
ped capers for a seasoning
one OF the most attractive sauces for
polled hsh Is colored with the coral of
lobster. The coral butter for this Is made
by putting the coral through a fine sie 70
with a pestle, and mixing with it an canal
quantity of butter The lobster sauce is
.neh MAGE by adding to the plain white
sauce salt. cayenne pepper and enough of
the lobster butter to color it.
A mayonnaise dressing seasoned with
e enr,ld gheIkins. Gapers and parsley. and
fish, Is an ideal Wand for a summer lun
cheon or dinner.
How to Proceed.
When fish is to be baked. vino II NTH
damp cloth and trim the fins and the tail
Lay it in the pan and pour about If a
quart of sliced tomatoes mixed with a
small onion and tiny piece of garlic
chopped very fine. Season with salt and
pepper, and over the top sift fine bread
crumbs, dotted with bits of butter. Rake
a five-pound fish half an hour.
A dressing for a baked fish of medium
size is made by browning slightly a cupfuI
of dry crumbs with tablespoonful of but
ter. Moisten them slightly with a little
water-a dressing for fish or poultry should
not suggest a poultice-and season with
salt, pepper and onion juice or sweet herbs
Fill the inside of the fish and Law fen,
salt and pepper and sprinkle with flour
The Dutch method of cooking salmon is
m much Ct blk, liked by many American tourists
Select a middle, cut that weighs five or
six pounds and put it IN a stew pan with
white wine vinegar, dozen peppercorns
two sliced onions, bunch of parsley. and
enough cold water to- cover the whole
Cover with a sheet of buttered paper. and
simmer one hour: Drain, garnish with
fresh parsley and serve with a white sauce.
A Delicious Dish.
Black bass stewed in American fashion is
a most delicious fish. 80 Put three fish of
good size in a buttered sauce pan, with a
teasponful of salt, one tablespoonful of
black pepper a dash of cayenne, two small
onions chopped fine. half a pint of cataw-
ba wine. half a pint of ssomatoes, a pint of
white sauce and bunch of parsley. Let
it cook slowly half an hour. closely cover
ed; then remove the fish,, skim out the pars-
ley. lift out the fish. and add to the sauce
tablespoonful of butter and the Juice of
one lemon. If the sauce is too thick, thin
down a little with boiling water.
A fine flavor, Is given to broiled fish by
Laying it, an hour before cooking, in a
glass of olive OIL seasoned with la,,on