The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-06-01

was made of gathered white satin rib
bon about an inch wide put around in
circles as large as small breakfast
plates. Only one side of the ribbon
was gathered, the outer edge standing
out in a frfll. These circles were placed
| between deep tucks of the material,
which might be either wolfe or canvas.
We are still faithful to the postage
stamp method of using squares of lace
on linen gowns, but the most approved
/ idea is now to run line of insertion
up each side of the front gore, which
/ turns and forms a hip yoke. Depending
from this yoke at intervals around the
skirt are other strips of lace. Still an
other trimming mode is to head a bias
hounce with foot and half band of
/ lace, often of the filet variety, strewn
with tiny cotton balls. The same lace
makes the little boIero around the
arms.
/ A smart white serge costume has a
perfectly plain seven gored tailored
skirt and a coat which is the exact
facsimile of an American naval officers
mess jacket. White military braid
binds the coat, and frogs are the fas-
Jennings down the front. This costume
is wonderfully swagger for mornings at
the casino. Apropos of things military,
braid is to trim spring skirts from the
hem to about six inches from the waist
/ Black mllltary DrdlQ looks particularly
well on blue serge.
Many dressmakers are cutting their
skirts in one, easing them around the
hips and then allowing the material to
/ fall full about two inches on the
] ground Graduated all the way up the
skirt are bands of silk or velvet. In
other words. they have returned to the
beer barrel" idea, which is a becom-
! ing mode for a slight woman when
]
trimmed with braid.
Many of the skirts verge upon the
eccentric in style For example, the
fullness instead of being in the back or
distributed evenly all around the waist
is RELOCATED to the front, the back being
left almost plain. Another model has
the upper portion of the skirt arranged
in three volants, the lower one just
reaching the knees Below this comes
the plain skirt, which merely touches
the ground all around.
We may now be certain that sleeves
will be fuller, although they will re-
main fiat on the shoulders. The newest
bodices are cut with the shoulders and
sleeves in one, and the fullness begins
about four inches below the shoulder.
The little coffee coat which the
/ English have found most useful and
becoming for long time the Parisians
are just adopting. Just why this dain-
ty ephemerality is called by its name
history sayeth not as gin jacket or
chocolate coat would be equally appro-
priS9e appellations. Bat coffee coat it
is, and, topsy turvy fashion, it is worn
at afternoon teas. These comfortab bic
coats are made low in the neck Of pref
ty chiffons and nets, cut either in bo-
lera fashion or with wide fchu effects
They form a kind of life saving station
between the heavy outdoor costume
and the thin, low dinner gown.
It may sound like forcing the season
! to talk about sunshades. still the for
tunate so5ourners in sunny chimes need
these productions, and the ateliers are
equal to the demand. The parasol ex-
actly matching the costume-indeed,
when possible, made of a piece of it
viii be the summer vogue The old
fashion Of making a colOred parapluie
the color center of a toilet is therefore
/ de mode. A small though distinctive
feature of the latest umbrella is a pc
culiarly long ferrule in highly polished
gilt. In the matter of handles there is
positively no limit and real jewels are
being pressed into the service of the
most beautiful of these.
/ CATHERINE TALBOT.