Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-05-11
ACROSS LAKE BAIKAL.
How a Correspondent Made the Trip in
Sledge.


c. H. De Bernis in LIE Monde Illustre.
I reached Lake Baikal In the springtime
that is to say, at the time when the lake
begins to thaw. Since our departure from
Hardin the question had been whether We
should cross the lake in boat or by sledge.
Upon reaching the lake we left the train
we had occupied for eight days, and here
our difficulties began, as we had to bargain
with sledge drivers who did not know
French German English, and conse-
quently both their demands and our offers
were equally unintelligible. At length, how
ever, with the aid of the conductor of the
train, we succeeded In coming to ar
rangement which stipulated the payment
of two roubles for the transportation of
each person across the lake by sledge.
Each sledge accommodated two persons
with their baggage. the sledges being very
primitive, sort of boat made of wicker
and filled with straw. upon which one lies
well covered with furs The departure
certainly gave a shock to the strongest
nerves, since the bank of the lake was
formed of blocks of ice piled the one on
the other, over which our horses leaped
with bound, and landed us on the other
side filled with wonderment that the whole
affair did not overturn The icy surface
extends as far as the eye can reach in the
pale light of day; the high mountains APP
pearing with their snow crowned heads
sharply contrasted against sky of intense
purity. Crossing Lake Baikal has remained
with me as one of my most impressive
membranes. In a world of legend the real
world appears not far off, the mountains
which encircle the lake acquire a fantastic
aspect with their black corners, their
streams of light and their rainbow color
fngs. All around us was peace, beauty and
tranquility, the majestic silence which in
closed only being broken by the sound
of the coachman's whip and the scraping
of the runners on the ice.
Ia t<>Rl ,yn~ f4r fl4~1
lists on the lake road with telegraph poles
as on an ordinary country road At this
season 1t was necessary to keep strictly to
the road, as there was danger of being lost
in crevasses. In winter there is no need
to fear anything of this sort, the ice easily
supporting artillery and even railroad
trains. The crossing by sledge, which lasts
four hours, is cut in two by stopping at one
of the tavernS which we met on the road.
The lake being frozen six months during
the year, Inhabitants do not hesitate to
erect taverns on the Ice, although 1t must
be confessed that 1t is no ordinary sensa-
ton to look beneath ones house and
through the transparent ice to see free
water. When one thinks that in places
the depth Is as great as $500 feet, a shiver
runs through the body which is not alto
gether due to the low temperature At
every moment sledges pass us going at full
speed and soon We begin to distinguish the
details of the coast to which we approach.
As we proceed we pass the two boats
Baikal and Angara, which during the sum-
mer perform the lake service, and soon
reach Baikal. After an excellent dinner
we go to inspect the famous dock of the
ferryboat Baikal which carries whole
trains of cars across the lake. From where
1 stood to the other side was little over
forty miles; but it Is this distance, over the
frozen floor of which stores and men have
to be transported to the front, that will
cause the Russian government more trouble
and anxiety than the entire route from the
Ural mountains to Port Arthur. The Rus
SLAMS have planned a branch railroad which
connects Baikal with Missovaia, so that
the Trans Siberian will be connected direct
~ with the Trans-Manchurian road. The
saving by means of this branch road is
very great
A note In the Illustrated London News
states that the making of the railway
around the lake meant some 200 bridges
and tunnels. more or less. And as the val
leys are very steep and the work can only
be carried on during the open months. the
engineering difficulties are apparent. Also,
landing from the lake Is out of the ques-
ton, as the debris prevents this, and, as
very strong gales blow without warning on
this stretch of water. dangerous seas get
up. making 1t impossible for vessels to lie
at the southwest corner of the lake.