The St. Louis Republic., 1904-10-09

WRITTEN FOR THE SUNDAY REPUBLIC
I. seems only . short season or two ago
that the skirts were OF the eelskin or skin
tight variety. and that what would be
considered a remnant OF materials in these
present days was sufficient tor a whole
suit IN those
Skirts were tight bodices CT blouses
were scant. and sleeves-well. a yard or
SO Of material made the requisite pair.
And we thought the style very acceptable
indeed.
Now. however. We have changed all that.
The modes. current and to come. demand
the utmost limit Of material. What for
nerly made suit now goes to fashion
pair Of sleeves ainostl
The materials are all Of the softest and
sheerest description. there is luxury in
their very touch: and in accordance the
trimming schemes are as elaborate as well
may be.
The dressmaker to-day demands from
sixteen 70 twenty yards to make even the
simplest gown-that IL. in the single-width
materials. OF courps: but in the double
width crepes. those that will fashion the
new skirt with but q single seam. a lesser
quantity proportionately will prove sum-
ting TO better advantage and leading TO
lesser waste.
II is quite settled that all Of the new
bodices are to be Of the draped variety.
very smart though trying model was
one evolved by leading Partisan house
in the spring
Indeed It was 30 radical a changs from
what all the worId-the fashionable world.
hat
left TO ianguish somewhat.
Now. however. with the assured cer-
tainty that the fashions. have really
changed. this neglected model is forging
to the front
Over very carefully boned and fitted
Enthusiastically the cut Is new. and
former Innings will not give the correct
lines-the material Is shirred IN length
wise lines. one down the center Of the
back. and one each side OF the front
The sleeve is in strict keeping with this.
shirred down the center. but very full.
and the lining Is built out at the shoulder
to the fullest width. little featherbones
being sprung on the sleeve TO support the
full puffiness OF the very sheer silk.
AS might be expected. the fashionable
Parisienne first visits her corsetisre be-
lc1S OISciibe lilac oe- 20 eN''''f h~' e4AS A'-N
figure demands new lines In the corset
The bust is now somewhat higher. the line
from underarm to waist is cleverly length
ened and the gently sloping hip gives e.
slender. wiliovy grace TO the figure 1t is
an outline this new one. that Is readily
distinsuishabls at a glance
However. TO return to the draped bod
ice. As might be expected. IL is only
the very sheerest and softest OF stufrs
that will make those deftly draped hchus,
those sleeves that are merely succession
OF pufYs or ruffes. or perhaps the one
cIeverly alternating with the other The
historic Henri Quatre sleeve 10 the one
that Will be most favored for the younger
fashionables. the one that is Just sue
cession Of sFlirred puffs. a large one at
the shoulder. and running down TO the
wrist the pufs grow more beautifully |
less with each succeeding one. Five Is
the usual number.
And. Incidentally. II 10 rather interest
ing to note that all Of ths fashions which |
we have resurrected from those romantic |
periods In history, those times when |
knights were gayls caparisoned and kings
We'd with each other in spiendor OF ap-
parel, 1t il Interesting to see that all Of
tiiore fascinating features that We are
in a 8