Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-02-27
THE TAILORED ETONS
Will Be Smart Wearing for
the Early Spring.
PANGIFUL CREATIONS
STREET !, DRESSES NOW ESCAPE
r THE GROUND.
Double or Tunic Skirts Are the
Forerunner of Summers
Ruffes.

the long coat never dreamt of. If milady
is petite the Elton adds to her peculiar
charm; while the girl with the Gibson
figure finds. in it an antidote to the mas
culine tendencies in cut and texture. to-
ward which the long coat was slowly but
surely leading her.
The woman with a limited bank ac-
count is rejoicing in the possibility of
cutting down her skirt coat into the
most approved of short jackets. The tai
lors are having quite bit of such work
to do. 1t is safer to intrust 1t to them
than to incur the bungling of fingers not
skilled in the art For the Elton has a
way about ia most decided way. In
deed, 1T marks the climax of fitted per-
fection; that is. when it has abjured the
evils of wrinkled back with decided
Hft in the center, or of fronts which
refuse to mold to the lines of the figure,
unless pinned or sewed into place.
The very plainest of the spring Etons
are fanciful little creations. There is
such bewildering display of galloons
ana bralds of lace and passementeries,
from which to choose that the feminine
mind cannot resist some form or an
other of trimming.
The dainty French wrist ruff1es and
puhed undersleeves add much to the ap-
pearance OF most of the spring jackets.
Ihese are of lace, which runs the gamut
from economy to lavishneSS expense, of
MT anu VI All varieties OF WHITE wash
materials lace incrusted or plain. Some
or the prettiest of the underpuffs are of
Whlte mouSSeline de sole, with wrist ruff
files edged with narrow Valenciennes lace.
Have Several Sets.
1t may be objected that these do not stand
laundering, with any degree of success
But the adroit Partisan has managed to
circumvent this defect. She has several
sets of these dainty undersleeves, which
are easily taken out of the coat sleeve and
as quickly pasted into position. While one
set is being worn, the others are coming or
going on q pilgrimage to the cleaners They
come out of the hands of the dry cleaner
with all Of their primeval freshness. and
their owner has the reputation of being an
immaculate dresser.
AS a reaction from the Iong-haired zibe-
lines and camefs hair effects which have
been worn during the winter. great many
of the spring suits are fashioned in smooth
finished cloths. Ladies' cloth. wooden can
vas. tweeds and the lightweight cheviots
are all correct for spring wear. 1t is pro-
phesied that this will be a great season for
the .voiles., but they are naturally more in
favor for the. more elaborate dresses than
for the first tailored suits.
.srn In the New Suits.
The double or tunic skirt is seen in many
of the new suits. It Is the forerunner of
the numerous ruffies and volants which
will adorn the summer dress skirts.
A rather dressy pedestrian costume.
which has one OF these tunic skirts, is of
bisque cloth, trimmed with bisque and white
braid. The tight-fitting coflarleSs eton is
closely braided down the front. 1t has an
elaborate pelerine or shoulder cape. This
latter is pointed in the back suggests n
shawl over the shoulders and ends in
points trimmed with braid ornaments, on
each side the front. The coat sleeves puff
moderately over narrow braid trimmed
cuffs. Smart ruffies of cream lace give
dainty finish at the wrists. The tunic skirt
cleverly fitted over the hips by means of
Iengthwise tucks. The underskirt is deco
rated and stiffened around the hem by
many rows of stitching.
Green Is always a favorite spring color.
Each year it is resurrected in new shades.
A Silver Green.
Green wool canvas-not a staring green
such as dyed some of the winters feathers.
but a delicate shade with sheen of silver
over it-makes a charming spring suit. The
skirt Is full and fitted over the hips and into
the waist line by a succession of short
tIcks It flares around the bottom and Is
adorned by band of the canvas, hand en-
broidered in green silk floss and edged
with silver braid mounted on inch-wide
strips of a darker shade of green velvet
The same color scheme is carried out
with regards the eton jacket The velvet
and silver form shoulder bands and daring
scufYs for the gigot sleeves and edge the fly
fronts of the eton These turn back to show
an underfa cling of white satin. There Is
shallow vest of the canvas exquisitely en-
broidered In the darker shade of green and
edged with the silver and velvet. 1t allows
a talbot of white lace to appear beneath It,
The same lace Is used for the wrist ruffies.
Mauve and all the shades leading to plum
color will have some vogue. An attractive
suit OF the latter shade Is effectively trim
n hands Of Unrk gold lace hra Id
over white silk. The skirt Is fashioned
with a double box-pleated tablier front.
The sides are cut with a pleated founce.
which runs into the box-pleated back. This
is similar to the front.
Edged With Gilt Braid.
The short rounded eton is edged with the
gilt braid although without a standing
collar, & 1t is fastened at the throat by
gilt and plum cofored cord Below It parts
to show the. trim silk blouse of the same
shade of silk. The gold braid also edges
the capeep5aE and serves cuff to the
full sleev& Inc silk blouse sleeve forms an
BENEATH eaffS rsh t crush th s grds
There Is an<evfdent desire to carry out
definite colorsscheme when selecting the
silk blou8e, rQhich generally accompanies
The bi56se u a broken plaid tweed suit
repeats he gray and blues of its tones.
The tweed is used with plain blue cloth
in q double erect scaHoped bolero The
edges of both the cloth and the tweed are
finished by narrow blue silk braid.
double effect Is also obtained on the half
length sT8eye9by the use of the cloth and
tweed Tart&w, closely braided strips of
the cIot# b. the shoulders. The silk
blouse Ii is lock of the tweed and cloth.
Its slee rs appear below the half
sleeves hd e finished at the wrist by
lace rufiies fhc shaped hip yoke Of the
skirt is edged with the braid. 1t runs into
a braid outlined tablier front. Pleats are
set at intervals of twelve inches or so
around the bottom. so as to give the proper
flare.
Bulgarian Embroidery.
Wolfe is being combined with Bulgarian
erbroideries with striking effect.
beige voilc is charmingly fashioned
over brown taffeta silk Strappings of the
same silk form considerable part OF the
suit trimming
The tight fitting Elton Is cut with long
shoulder seams and fitted belt. 1t has