The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1904-02-19

line is arranged in curves and loops;
the others are straight about the skirt.
The bodice has an unlired yoke Of lace
bordered with plain bias fold, and
folds of silk below repeat the curved
pattern that starts on the skirt. The
sleeves make one full puff to the ell
bows and finish with double lace rufIes.
The belt is Of white silk and the bodice
ends with little coattails, a feature of so
many of the new gowns.
There are some examples of Louis
XIV. coats to be seen now. A popular
actress at one OF the boulevard thea
tiers has just made a success of an odd
gown after the POmpadour period. 1t
Is Of smoke colored wolfe and
changeable gray, mauve and green
silk. The skirt Is made of the wolfe
trimmed with two pulled bands of the
silk, edged everywhere with a narrow
lace ruching. The long fitted silk habit
is full over the hips, hanging in side
pleats from the belt, and is made with
close shoulder cape and long, close
sleeves. The straight sides Of the coat
are cut out into rounded points, the
edge of the cape is treated in the same
way, and the sleeves are slaShed and
cut out in the same points from the
wrist to the elbow. All these points are
trimmed with narrow lace ruche and
Ornamented with a button. On the
sleeves q lot Of lace runs from the ell
bow to the wrist. There is a soft belt
that passes about the Jacket, under the
straight sides, and fastens in front with
big button. The blouse is made Of
lace jabots.
At a recent wedding the bridesmaids
gown Of blue and mauve mOusseline de
sole had an original trimming. The
skirt was trimmed with four ruffled
folds about four inches deep and fin
ished by tiny ruchings of ribbon and
chou at intervals of q few inches.
The trimming was laid in shallow
scallops and the top ruff1e turned up
and the second one down. The same
trimming occurred on a dark wolfe
gown done In taffeta silk. In this case
all the ruff1es turned toward the waist
from straight, stitched bands, except
the bottom one, which was deeper and
fuller.
The new goods show such a large
proportion of Voiles and mousseline
lines that one naturally expects to
see the shirred skirts worn all summer
in spite of the attempt to introduce
the plated skirts and closer hip eff
fects. But the Paris houses that set
the modes for the world look far
ahead, and one may expect some
changes by next autumn. People have
really come to like the full effect over
the hips and to find that it does not
necessarily make the figure clumsy.
But the couturiers think that the fash
ion has run long enough for their
profits. They complain, too, that there
is little profit for them In these very
elaborate gowns, unless they increase
their prices more than their clients
are willing to stand.
There are some pretty ideas to be
found in the spring tailored suits, es-
pecially in the trottoirs. The short
skirt is at its best when plated. Some
Of the new models show Jokes on
skirts again. A walking costume in a
mixed red and black wool has the
skirt, with the exception Of a narrow
front apron, laid in wide side plaits,
with a spreading box pla1t in the back.
The blouse coat crosses front and back
in surplice fashion and fastens with
large black cloth buttons. There Is a
pointed yoke Of black cloth, embroid-
cred with black braid, and narrow
wristbands of the same.