New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1904-12-19

- 'No EoteS upon the Savoy already published
I've made no effort to marshal ny facts n
ioS!cai order, nor have attempted 10 increase
tnelr interest by the devices which 7ouId conc 50
reao1!y 70 the hand Of an experience aewsuaue =
/ reporter search for truth, even upon 80 com
/ nOnplace subject as the cost OF focd and drink
surrey nay be conducted by the simple process OF
lAFIC4ng lnICrma ton from those who ere qualified
10 give 1t, and then writing down v7ha5 thew say
as nearly as may be N their Own words IL IRE
pairing these further notes, the ches OF the cooks
aC the SAVOY has again been nv urilciral
author4Cy take it that no aIsd his colleagues at
Claridget and the Berkeley-the two other hctals
owned oy the Savoy prCprf5tbEs-uEsb possess
among them = more authoritative kroEIeE~e CT
their art than could well be found IN the Kitchen
stan employed by any one hotel proprietary else
where IN the world; and in these days Of e,oYeen-
ment oy the majority, the CHIEF cook OF the Savoy
must, suppose, be accorded the technical
seniority, since he provides in the course OF q
year for the needs OF a number Of guests greater
tnan can De found at the tables CT either o.
the other hotels IN respect Of enc point after
another, have asked independent experts 70
verify the facts thus collected, lest might have
failed to apprehend the cooks meaning or to make
my questions clear to him When loOk over What
has already been printed, in order that nay not
repeat myself to-day, 1 have thus the satisfaction
OF knowing that, even IL have wearied the reader
by reporting too slavisbly the phrases Of one who
does not profess TO think in English, have at any
rate not garbled the evidence and have, indeed.
been at some little psins 10 assure myself that
was not misleading those who were to read ny
little story.
Those readers Of The Times who have been good
enough to follow ny narrative know that have
learned three or four facts That tbs cooks art
lies ratheD in his marketing than u his cooking
that marketing on behalf OF the Savoy share
holders IS carried out upon a scale large that
1t is done at the least possible cost that there is,
II housekeeping so carefully organized mona O. Lhe
waste or loss that occurs IN private house. And
from these facts was led To the conclusion that
one might obtain luncheon at the Savoy, not only
more cheaply than at home, but than at club,
although the quality OF the Savoy supplies IS
such that they could not well be matched at even
the best Of West End shops. The secret OF good
cooking, as have been shown, lies largely in the
use Of good cooking-butter and as saw by the
kitchen accounts, the Savoy provides for It's
clients Normandy butter which would cost, II
purchased at retail in London, mora than IS. a
that no such butter can be purchased at any shop
IN London, and, indeed, that no English butter Is
sold for more than Is. Cd. pound so that,
although at one alone Of the Savoy Colrpany's
hotels hundredweight Of butter may DO used IN q
day, the dish of kidneys for which one pays z
shilling in the grill-roOm comes TO the table
enriched with butter purchased at a price which
would break the heart Of any thrifty English
housewife. I was forced once again to tax the
patience Of the cook in order that might find out
to quality, yet most laVishIy il regard TO price,
extends to other supplies, and whether private
housekeepecs are as helpless IN other markets as
in the butter market.
That is easily answered, he said: What VIC do
I" IN respect of butter, do IN respect OF every
% thing else that We buy. 1t is not because am
g eny better cook than any Of ny fraternity IN
d" London that you dine better when our SaToy
" company IS your host than when you dine else
90 where it is only because ny shareholders have
hos1 70 r-f--, ALL h
" best OF everything, knowing that n the end
4" they will not lose by such course II you loo
outside this door you viii see the supplies that
" have refused to-day. ! send back, think,
d" one-ffth Of all that is delivered By the
- merchants. do not say they love me- but I
"a can have my way, because no one else in
. England pays the price We do Here Is buck
- from the Black Forest that am returning TO /
" the merchant. You say you can soc nothing /
. wrong with it Look again. It has staring /
- coat the hair IS harsh. II Is not my business
- 70 know Why am not 9 veterinary surgeon {; |
% but know that buck was not IN the prime Ce I
g condition, or it would not look Ike that. :
- viii not serve it. Here are a score Of grouse, !
. woOdcOek, and partHdge5 have reTused-sCDe !
/" Of them because I see the marks where shot /
% entered the body. You might md between /
90 your teeth pelleG Of that shot which lies /
50 embedded In the flesh, and, even II you did not |
- break tooth, you would not quite enjoy your |
- dinner. You entrUsc yourself 70 ne. am I
% see nothing anlISs with these chickens have /
20 refused tell you. Sir, the skin OF chicken /
&" should have just the rosy Eshu n It that you |
'Isee in q child's skin after its cold bath. The |
81 skin Of those chickens has brOwnish tint IL IS
80 thick, coarse skin the chickens are naJ good
" enough for the Savoy leJ them 90 elsewhere. - (
This minute care seemed to ne the more |
remarkable, for had seen in the kitchen accounts
entries showing that II q single month the /
supplies employed amounted to no less than $1,000
eggs, 8, 800 quarts Of milk, 6S5 quarts of cream,
6,000Ib. of lamb, nearly ton Of ham, hslf-a-ton /
Of bacon, haG-a-OOn Of coffee, and 50 on through
list Of items each so far out Of proportion 10 the
figures which appear IN private. housekeeping /
accounts that they would bswlder rather than /
inform the reader if l gave them all. One thinks
Of ones breakfast bacon in terms OF rsshers, not
Of tons, and this budget OF giant household is |
miles from tho earth, which means 20 the schcoI-
boy upon whom it Is so carefully impressed 10 !
more than if the figure we're nine million miles.
HOW PLOUGH-FURROWs MAKE SOUP. |
You ser" said the cook, these great legs |
" of beef? They come all the way from France
50 to make ny soup ard the brown stock use for
" certain OF ny sauces. You would think. 10
" doubt, that I could employ English bee2 and
" save the cost Of carriage. No and viii tel
" you why not. The beef that you eat ar the
/" Savoy is Scotch beef. French beef has not
a" so succUlent favour or exquisite grain /; yet
I" 1t makes better base iOr stock, because it
" has in it more of the celattnous quality which Is
as much TO be desired il the soup Pot as 1t is 20
" be avoided for the purposes Of . slrloin, This
" Is the case because only regular exercise, /
" and hard exercise at that, will develop that
" peculiar gelatiae, that noble sap OF beef, and
" 1t IS only IN France that l IN sb.e TO obtain
" the legs or beeves that have drawn the plough.
When / first began buying plouSh-cattle
" IN Franco FOR my kitchen, people thought that