The Saint Paul globe., 1904-10-23

ing markedly to the y-neck, or q little
square demi- -decolletage for even semi
formal functions. The smart girl will
fashion her own gown SO, making pro-
vision for a little lace chemisette to
ill in the decolletage when she requires
high-neck gown. Over the shoulders
there is a fat empiecement of hand
run tucks, this oyerlaid with lace sprays,
and edged with velvet on the throat
opening. This comes about to the
bustline; and from there there Is a lit-
tie rounded bolero, fashioned with
shirring around the armhole, and clev-
erly designed full so as to emphasize
the roundness and slenderness of the
waistline beneath. The sleeves are
simply succession of plated ruff1es
from shoulder to elbow.
Skirt Is Very Simple
The skirt is the acme of stylish sim
rlicity. The upper part is simply
shirred in yoke design over the hips,
the full folds of crepe falling free to
the knee. Here further fiounce Is
shirred to the straight-edge Of the up
per section; and If the girl be tall and
slender she can with very good effect
shirr on a still further founce to this
one and SO get the requisite extreme Of
fulness around the feet. OF course, In
the important model, one from the
Maison Agnes, whence so many dainty
conceits, originate, all of the shirring
and tucking are done by hand; for
time does not represent so much money
over there as 1t does here, and dress
makers apprentices get but little or
indeed no pay at all. But in this land
OF the dollar the oscillating stitch of
the sewing machine will doubtless be
called upon to duplicate these dainty
effects: and in the ultimate run there
are but few who can tell the difference
between the hand and machine produo-
ton without very close inspection In
deed.
Resorts the Thing
velvets and their close cousins.
the velveteens, are in high favor for the
new designs. The chiffon weave is now
to be In velveteen, and one has to look
more than once to really make sure
that the less expensive fabric is not q
silk velvet
There is really delightful latitude
in the style for velvet costumes and
when one says velvet one includes the
velveteens, for they are In very good
standing even with the expensive and
exclusive houses just now. The out
door costumes, from the most severe
tailor-made to the dressiest of carriage
ana Gaining t0lIetteS, are fashioned in
this exquisite pile fabric; and trim
mings, elaborate trimmings, simply run
riot over the latter The tailor -made
girl Will favor the corduroys that come
in the best of the seasons eolorings;
and those smart little vests will give
her welcome opportunity to vary her
appearance by having more than one
to each costume.
While the outline Of the skirts are
decided and that fatly-they must be
plated close over the hips and fiaring
fully around the hems-there is q won
derfully wide and satisfying latitude In
coats. There are those short frilly and
fluffy little garments that really de-
pend upon girdle to keep them in
shape and give them some outline that
will conform, however slight, to the
figure. Then there are some extremely
chic little models In sacQue shape,
where there is simply no pretense of
any f1t whatsoever. These come just
to the curve of the hips. and are usual-
ly fashioned with bias fold IN the
center OF the back and just q suggee-
ton Of q loose vest in front.
The girl whose lines are as the poet
put it, divinely tall, she it Is who VIII
make her own of those fascinating
Louis Quinze, Louis Seize and Direc-