Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-08-13
COMBINING LACES
All thefReal Have limitations
Nowadays.
KNOWN BY THE MESH
IRISH POINT WILL BE A LEADER
THE COMING SEASON.
Valenciennes Now Comes in All-Over
Pattern-Woven in Dress
Form.
KNOWN BY THE MESH


than usual. fact due not entirely to the
dictates of Dame Fashion, but also to royal
influence abroad.
Queen Alexandra and Queen Margherlta
have both set the example of encouraging
native lace makers. The former went 50
far as to substitute for the tulle or chiffon
generally attached to the imperial crown
veil OF the finest applique obtainable from
English lace makers. The representatives
of the crown in Ireland have also been In
structed to make fashionable at govern
ment functions the wearing of that ex
qu1site Irish point and crochet lace for
which the Erin lace makers have been ia
nous for centuries, but which has been
sadly neglected for many decades.
Paris, fountain head of fashions wisdom.
has taken its cue from royalty. and its
shops are billowy with lace weaves of
every description. In turn the American
buyers are flooding this country with heavy
importations of the various makes of lace
which VIII lend themselves 10 the fashions
of the season.
Unquestionabl the lace leader for the
season will be Irish point. A lace buyer
describes the real and its cleverest imita-
tons as the lace which looks as IL 1t had
buttons on it. Buttons of various sizes
connected by stout strands of thread form
terms so heavy that they seem almost
separate from the mesh, are raised. In
truth some of the new importatlons snow
parts of the designs loose from the mesh;
that is a full-blown rose, passion flower
or piece of fruit is made separate from
the mesh and attached to 1t by slender ten
drill or stem so that each blossom can be
picked up and handled.
Not Cheap Lace.
This Irish point comes In magnlncent
bands from six inches to eighteen inches IN
width. 1t will be used on velvet gowns and
quite frequently will have finish of small
fur ornaments. Irish point is by no means
a cheap lace, and $50 a yard is a small
price to pay for the finest bands.
Irish crochet, guipure and point venise
are interchange BILE terms in most stores.
They have am open. irregular mesh and
give the effect of floral pattern joined by
cords. 1t is hard to detect the difference
tetween the real and the imported laces.
because they come in SO many grades, IN
white, ecru and cream also in black silk.
They are offered in all-over. in tiounces.
bands or insertions and in a bewlderinS
variety or berthas stoes and collars. they
will be used this winter for evening cloaks
and for combining with silk and satin.
Cluny is moderately heavy ace i'll cob
web pattern. The mesh, when closely ex-
amined, shows a combination of squares
and circles. 1t has been much used this
summer linen gowns. and tie we'll
dressed woman counts among her posses
Sions a petticoat trimmed deliberately in
cluIly THIS Is oilcic GU III pure cream
and ecru.
The heaviest of all laces is the yak lece,
which is made of wool, reproducing most
of the patterns showing in real thread lace.
1t is big snowy and heavy, and is used to
combine with heavyweight cloth. AS a
rule, 1t should be avoided by the small.
misunderstanding woman, 1T has n ten
dency to make her look over dressed.
Indian Damask.
Another heavy lace which is much used
on white voile and etamne Is the Indian
damask, which comes in bands four or
five inches wide. 1t shows q silk mesh en-
broidered solidly in wool and gives the eff
feet of a strip of Persian rug with the nap
clipped close.
the silk laces chantily seems to be enjoy
ing the largest vogue 1t comes in both
cream and black and in exaggerated fruit
and flower patterns. The fruit designs are
particularly in demand this season. The
mesh of the chantilly shows tiny, fine cir
ces overlsid with the design. Cotton
imitation chantilly is called point d'Alen-
con. Both the real and the imitation are
used in the all-over for dress and coats.
Patterns come woven in the different pieces
for gown, or 1t may be bought, like cloth,
by the yard. 1t is also offered in the
various widths of insertions and edgings
and medallions.
In Small Pieces.
Incidentally, medallion and motif are
interchangeable terms. meaning detached.
complete lace patterns usually small in
size and conventional in treatment Gal
loon is an irregular insertion so finished at
both edges that it can be set on the ma
terial and not into it. Exaggerated gal
looms such as garfands, fern leaves and
wreaths, in heavy lace such point de
venise will be used to carry out the direc
toire style of trimming this season.
rif Ul 10 aa1I Mayin m
drawn work, or its imitation in machine
made goods, can be recognized by its ever
present wheel pattern. The reat teneriffe
comes in white only though 1t is dyed in
is used for trimming black silk gowns in
such quantities that 1t gives the effect of
an all-over.
French valenciennes, which for many
centuries appeared in the form of insertion
and edging only is enjoying a decided re-
vival because it is offered in double
width all-over, which makes up admirably
into gowns and coats.
There are two grades of valenciennes, the
German and the Platte The German
shows large mesh, the Platte fine, dia-
mond-shaped mesh. The latter is the more
expensive lace.
Mechlin and Lierre
Mechlin lace has many of the charac-
teristics of valenciennes but Is more silky
| in texture. Point de Paris is an imitation
or ducheSSe lace I1erre lace gives the
effect of "a very fine thread lace embroid-
cred on fine net in floral design. The
pattern is straight and stiff, generally run
ming perpendicular on the fiounce and CIV
ing the effect OF long stems on the flowers.
1t comes ifh ai-over, in insertion and in
edging, and is favorite material when
used solidly' for evening coats over silk
Two laces which have enjoyed a vogue
all summer, but will now be given a sec
ondary place IN the ranks of lingerie trim
| mings, are the -repoussee and the netloul de
naigne. The former is known 10y the name
of pushedoin lace and dented lace. The
pattern, generally in large dots, was set
in rather than raised and for this reason
| people who dldn't know the secret Of the
pattern made 1t up wrong side out. 1t is
still much used for half sleeves and iabots.
Netloul de naigne, the falling of snow
is also called the snow drop lace and the
seed lace. The mesh shows a fine net in
white. cream, ecru and tan with self tone
sprinlsling of tiny round blossoms all over
it. 1t is also offered in black silk in ede-
ings, bands and all-over
Valenciennes and teneriffe lace are COM
bined in the form of a square, with a ten
eriffe wheel in the center and the Valen-
ciennes pattern filling out the edges of the
square. Sometimes Lne wheel is white and
the valenciennes is dyed to a Contrasting
shade such as ecru tan, violet. blue. green
or red Valenciennes and point de- Paris