The daily morning journal and courier., 1904-02-16

ing dress is mourning is absurd. White is practically just as much mourning as is black, and a man should always wear the former on for nal occasions.
 The ''gibus," or opera hat, is at pres ent under an eclipse, but these must sooner or later come again in fashion, as they are very useful for the thea ter
 There is no change in the frock coat for afternoon wear, except that some are quite elaborately braided or frog ged. The one-button frock coat so pop ular in London has not met with favor here.
 Trousers with frock coat should be of some stripped material, and the dark drabs and grays are still much in favor.
 The waistcoat is double-br either of the same material as the coat, or of silk of some fancy weave. White duck waistcoats are very popu- lar, and even nankeen ones are worn by those who wish to be very English. Many of the new waistcoats are made the coats are cut so as to button-that is, the first button slightly beneath the top of the waistcoat, allowing the latter to show.
 There Is not so much prejudice as existed formerly in the wearing of the turn -down-all around collars with frock or park suits On the contrary, they were seen a great deal last year. The afternoon scarfs or cravats are of two kinds, the puffed Ascot and the four-in-hand. Many of the latter are wider and with larger bow than for merly. The puffed scarfs come in diff ferent combinations of black and gray and purple and some of the old effects are seen in broad contrasting stripes. The four-in-hands are dull gree nand brick dust or cardinal red, black and dove gray. The stickpin is now insert ed in the apron some little distance below the bow knot. Owing to the low cut of the waistcoat and the low first 1 button of the frock, morning or cuta- way coat, the tie can be seen for half its length at least,
 Gloves are of dark brown kid or gray suede or undressed reindeer. Some men are again wearing white kid gloves with afternoon attire, but it is not considered in the very best of taste. Sticks are of malacca, with silver tops. The wood should be dark and highly polished and very light in | weight
 Black leather button boots with rounded toes are worn universally In town. Spats are also seen a great l deal, especially with afternoon dress. The top hat of the season is very ugly. It is straight up and down, with l a narrow brim and flat crown. It has l almost the shape of one of the old 1 time tunnels or "chimneys" on a loco- motive. One may see exactly the same hats in Cruikshank's later illus l trations or in those which Thackeray made for "Pendennis.' sThe New comes" and "The Adventures of Phil- ] Many men do not change the shape of their top hats, but have them made ! from the same block, and for short, are far more becoming than those worn l this year.
 l The derby has rather high bell crown. A few brown derbies are worn, with brown tweed or fomespun sack suits For this latter class of attire there are many kinds of tweeds, home spuns and cheviots. Brown has come back for stay. The new shades are more nearly olive than the deep tilts. | Although the most comme il faut handkerchief is of plain white, with a narrow hemstitched border and plain
 embroidered initials, many fancy ere l ations in plaids of green and olive and
 brown and madras effects are seen. l Pocketbooks are made of pigskin or 1 of black leather, with silver or gold | corners, and the initials stamped, in- | stead of in a silver monogram. Cigar l cite cases are of cilver and gold and I pigskin. In fact the many articles of this latter fabric are considered very smart indeed. Pocketbooks are stamp l ed with initials and lined with brown watered silk. There is an inner com pertinent for bills which can be placed iengthwise and then folded, and also places for stamps and small coin, and
 the entire pocketbook is so small and flat that it can be carried in the inner breast pocket without disturbing the
 contour of the coat.
 Belts are worn by men who are in- clined to obesity. These are placed
 over the stomach and have something
 of the effect of stays. They give a
 straight figure and allow clothes to fit without a wrinkle.
 The raincoat is worn great deal for
 mild weather. The belted overcoat is
 rather popular garment just now,
 but like the gored affairs of last win
 ter, it has been initiated in cheap
 goods and will not last long. The mel
 ton Chesterfield frock overcoat in
 black or blue, with velvet collar is all
 ways smart. There are a lew grays
 made very long, almost like an ulster.
 The material is a pepper and salt mix
 ed cheviot, finished with olive green
 velvet collars.