The Savannah morning news., 1904-05-08

organdy frock. showing a floral pat
tern that tones into the deepest shade
OF the lace, and the trimming will be
scarcely recognizable as that worn
with the plain crepe or wolfe.
Women who do not care for the
dressy under or half sleeves are com
promising on double ruffles for slipping
INTO plain shirt waist or snug-fitting
cuffs. But the real summer effect ia
best obtained by complete surrender
TO the half sleeve, with the flowing
three-quarter sleeve above il.
The lingerie half sleeve is most non
ular. 1t is fashioned from sheerest
lawns, with Valenciennes, Mechin or
oriental lace. Next in popularity
comes the net sleeve, trimmed with
lace In the same tone. 1t is popular
for champagne or cafe au lait conbi-
nations. Boleros of heavy lace, such
as Irish point or Arabian or heavy
point de Venice, give elegance to the
summer gown, while the finer, sheerer
laces, like Valenciennes, sound the
typical summer girl note in the cos
tune.
Where the amount of money for
trimmings is represented by a small
sum, the shopper should avoid perish
able fabrics in accessories, such as or
CANDY, mousseline and chiffon. and
cling to washable materials like ba-
tiste, lawn and finest dimity, combined
with washable laces. Chiffon Yields
even to dry cleaning of the highest
grade, and is only for those who have
many changes in frocks and garni-
lures.
Embroidered MOusseIines and ChiF-
f0ns.
Embroidered mousselines and ch;f-
fons are combined with the most lus-
Of he e;I1
those which seem shot with metallic
tlnts such as silver. gold and copper.
With pongee and other Oriental silk.
the heavier laces, such as Arabian. are
used. Irish point Is largely employed
with linen, and silks woven to initiate
linen.
A charming example of embroid-
cred mousseline with lustrous silk is Z
vest of plain mousseline with a square
yoke and three long tabs of embroid-
cred chiffon, all to be set into a blouse
of the silk, with hand run tucks. The
square yoke is adjusted so that the
points run one to the front, one to the
back and one down each shoulder.
With this come double wrist ruff1es
of mousseline, edged with satin rib
bon and each scallop bearing en-
broidery to match the collar and tabs
Another dainty adjustable yoke, with
points arranged as described above,
is of chiffon, appliqued with ribbon
bowknots and lace medallions. A
third example shows a yoke and ber-
tina in one, the yoke fashioned from
point de Venise, and the bertha of dou-
BILE ruches of chiffon, between which
peep founces of Mechlin lace. The
bertha curves upward with the bust
line to meet a sleeve cap, allowing the
arm free movement without mussing
the dainty but rather deep bertha eff
feet.
just from Paris.
From Paris came set which IN
cludes a bolero with shell-shaped
front and back pieces. four in all: a
girdle, also shell shaped, and very pc
culiar undersleeves. The lower part
of the undersleeve is tight fitting.
made from all-over lace, and at the ell
bow there is a graduated fiounce of
edging to match the all-over. This
set, in an excellent quality of point de
Venise, cost $22. so, but it made a sim
pie gown of champagne eolored wolfe
look like an imported creation. The
wolfe blouse was hand tucked. and the
sleeve was tucked from shoulder to
elbow, where a founce of the wolfe,
following the lines of the lace fiounce,
gave the desired bouffant effect.
An organdy showing pale pink and
green uSufeS on SreenlSn white
ground was made with innumerabla
accordion pleated ruff1es, finished with
single rows of green ribbon, which
toned into the deeper green of the
pattern.
The blouse was trimmed simply
with shirrings to simulate a bolero.
The three-quarter sleeves were
shirred, with a finish of accordion
pleated ruffies to match those on the
skirt. Below this sleeve fell a triple
founced half sleeve of Oriental lace,
and a jabot of the same lace was at
tached to the shirred collar, falling
nearly to the waist line.
In summer. lace should not furnish
glazing contrast with the gown, but
should blend with 1t, and if combined
with dark colors it should be in the
form of a vest. yoke or other acces-
sorry over foundation of silk or chif-
fon in the tone of the lace. It should
not be laid uncompromisingly over
the dark cloth or silk.