Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-01-21
TRAVEL IN PORTO RICO
CONDITIONS PLEASA-NTER THAN
UNDER THE SPANISH.
Streets Cleaner-New Railroad to Cir
Gle Island-Sulphur and
Thermal Baths.

Ponce Correspondence of the New York Evening
Post.
The new railroad which Is to enclrcle the
Island OF Porto Rico is already in operation
from Ponce to Yauco on the south, from
Mayaguez to Aguadilla on the west and
from San Juan to Hatillo and Arecibo on
the north. There is also a railroad from
San Juan to Rio Piedras, with several sta
lions in the summering country of the citi-
gems of the city of San Juan. The chief
means of travel still. however. is over high
ways in carriages and automobiles. Be-
tween Ponce and San Juan-the two chief
cities. one on the south and the other on
the north coast-the central highway, the
"Camino Real of Spanish times, is now
buster than ever In history. It Is eighty
four miles In length and passes through in
terestfng scenery and picturesque hamletS,
not all negro shacks by any means. The
toric attraction for Americans. Where it
winds about Asomanti. at Afbonito (2.275
feet above sea leveD. one may see the
heights which the Spanish fortified to stay
Miles. Our men were on the point of at
lacking, when news Of peace was telegraph
cd to the camps, and the accommodating
party. out for the last time before the adj
vance. was called in.
Springlike Climate.
As a place to visit in winter Porto Rico
II pleasanter to the stranger than almost
any other Of the West Indies. There are
hotels In Ponce and San Juan as good as
Havana's and cheaper. The climate Is
springlike, seldom rising above 70 degrees
Fahrenheit; the vegetation Is luxuriant
without giving one the sense Of strangling
thickness that Expresses In countries nearer
the equator. 1t Is civilized and settled.
With an average Of 273 persons to the acre,
the island ranks fourth among the most
populous countries of the earth. Or course,
most of these are negroes. and many are
muiattoes, but there are more whites, es-
peciafly in the cities. than anywhere else In
the West indies or Caribbees. except Santi-
ago and Havana In Cuba. They are gentle
and friendly people. American ways have
so modified the Spanish customs that it is
possible now to meet the best OF them in
their homes. even on short acquaintance. II
one is properly introduced: and the Amer
lean colony-army, navy and civtlian-has
increased greatly and Is singularly hospita-
bic.
Plenty Of Water.
No great amount of stagnant water exists:
1900 flowing streams irrigate the land; and
there are fertility and healthful conditions
nearly everywhere. American drainage and
sanitation and road repairing have trans
formed tho towns since the Spanish troops
there are the popular thermal baths Of
Quintana. and off the main highway to San
Juan there are some sulphur baths that
were celebrated in Europe one hundred
years ago. There Is pleasant hotel there,
open to all the breezes. with fine tropical
garden and a careful kitchen. Just outside
San Juan, accessible by electric car. is
Olimpo, delightful, wide-verandaed public
house. where many of the government Off
GERS live with their families. In San Juan
and in Ponce there are a theater and sport
ing clubs, and San Juan has telephones and
a public library. One does not recall anoth-
or town bordering the Caribbean sea except
Grenada. British West Indies, which has a
public library.
Many American school teachers are scat
tered through the island, girls who felt the
impulse to earn their living and had a
taste for strange climes. They sometimes
get very lonesome, and few marry Porto
Ricans. About the life and the climate and
the people. however. there is a quality
which fascinates them and though they like
to go home for vacation, they also seem to
like to return. some of them. On the whole
Porto Rico is more delightful for short
than for long stay to persons bred in the