The Montgomery advertiser., 1904-04-08

 express it. The fashion of such bands will change from season to season. but they are seldom banished entirely. Some times they will be of silk or ribbon. some times of stitching, sometimes of braid. Ruff1es are better than any of these. For the same reason that ruffles are impossi- bIe to the short. plump woman, in that they render her "tubby." they are god send to you of length and slimness.
 A woman who wants to grow tall must forswear every one of these roundabout effects Furthermore, she must cultivate the acquaintance of all trimmings that run up and down. For her there are the seam strappings and piptngs. Remember that the effect of any skirt trimming whether vertical or horizontal. is empha- sized by being in a contrasting color. AS a rule, strong contrasts are less artist'e than the soft harmenies of blending tones. so you must decide for yourself which sacrifice you will make.
 By the same laws the length of waist and arm may be affected. If you are short waisted. run as fast as you can from all trimmings that run across the
 waist Bands of inserting worn across the bust are perilous Use the trimmings that run vertically from collar to-bet. or effects. If your arms are short and plump, avoid very full sleeves and wear trimmings put on lengthw1se. The thin armed woman Is the only one who dares risk the plenteousness of rufies and puhs that the modern sleeve revels tn. A woman who is all straight lines from top to toe may resort. to many devices
 besides padding to gain curves. Take ths hips for instance.
 Your tailor will want to insert a stuffy little pad of something under the corset |; Iz DoA cotton or wool or hair Is heating, uncom-
 fortable and unhealthful If you must be padded, if you cannot wait until physical culture has rounded out your hips to sym metricaf proportions. then use a spring wire or a hollow pad.
 For my part. dislike all pads. and l do not believe that there are any which the keen observer cannot distinguish from genuine curves. There Is certain stin- ness about hte built woman that the other never has Flexibility is lacking Softness, suppleness both feminen beat ties. are wanting. For that reason. if any fraud must be perpetrated prefer to de- pend upon petticoats that are fathered full about the hips. I have seen false hips which actually seemed to move sep arately when their wearer walked. There can be no such sorry results from wear ing full gathered petticoats.
 Hip pads are unheaIthful but infinitely more e are bust pads. Those that are net hollow actually hinder the growth of the breast and may injure 1t serious ly. for it is a very delicate part ot tEe bcdy Hollow pads made of very ligAt material are harmless enough. Best of ally is the strip of cloth gathered, which Is inserted at the bust portion of many corset waists. This does not compress the breast in the least or hinder the free Gcm of its growth. and it gives the ap- pearancs of greater size.
 Very full chemise and corset covers aid and abet the harmless de :eption, and the o,,yner of a small bust should eschew all close fitting gowns and coats. The military etons and the flat-fronted waists are not for her. It is very easy to find plenty of other styles. All>sorts of blousey garments are to be found, and trimmings on the bust aid materially fluffy chou of chiffon, a great knot of ribbon. a cluster of flowers, all carry out the impression of fulness.
 Never be troubled by a waist that is lalge unless you are really fat In that case you can reduce your girth by eX- CT cising and dieting. But the woman who is not heshy need never pine for the wasp line of her sister Let your waist measure be a good twenty -four inches or more if that is its normal measurement. Seek to increase the size of shoulder and rips and the waist will apparently grow smaller by comparison. Wear soft belts, these that will crush close to the figure. The belts that slope down from point in the middle of the back make the waist look smaller.
 marrow -shouldered woman can re- sors to a thousand devices m dress to broaden those shoulders, while the dumb bells and pulley weights are working sIo wly toward their beautiful end Many of the new shirt waists show a wide bertha of small shoulders. Some of the new yokes have a wide shoulder which stands out like sort of epaulette above the sleeve This is txcelleot. So, too, are the shoulder bands of embroidery or other trimming which run from the collar far down the shoulders.
 Uneven hips are much harder to man. age than uneven shoulders What the actress had to contend with was nothing compared with the trials of the woman W he bears one hip higher than the other. A famous physician has given several of his patients q cork-SOled boot for one fcot. This raises the low hip by length ening the leg and relieves backaches. The only simple assistance, outside a pad. that can be rendered. is a sash bow worn on one slde.