The San Francisco call., 1904-03-13

that an American belle revived an
c,d-new fashion.
Her gown. which was d spark
ling tulle, with threads of silver
woven in it. was trimmed with silver
garland. one great garland, all made
of silver roses and silvered rose leaves,
was fastened at the side of the skirt
and brought across the front breadth.
j Was a yard long. not counting the
long and trailing stem which wound
around tho skirt.
The corsa5e was bordered with sill
Yer flowers. And thus the belle
lrought out new style, at the same
time scoring Il triumph for French
gown.
u WAS this same belle who wore
next day OF the Nevsky promenade in
St Petersburg a gown Of crimson vel
et with The nap all crushed. The
trimming consisted Of braid sewed
upon one edge only and of jet cording
which outlined the braid. 4 little
tocue OF the same material set charm
ingiy upon her head. The toque wass
trimmed with that trimming which
never goes out Of style. namely, i long.
glossy ostrich plume. Her jewelry
was dull silver set with red stones.
While speaking of spring fashions
one must mention the material called
crushed velvet, which. while by no
means spring material. win never
theless be much worn. Crushed velvet
comes in very light weights and makes
very lovely spring gown. It can be
found ia al shades and we'll
II looks very much like a very nice
quality Of baby lamb.
If you are the owner Of an old vel
vet gown. or of Il waist which you
wish to crush take it and wet it
thoroughly on the right side. Now
twist it violently in the hands. wiring
ing it well. Let it lie over night all
twisted and the next day you will have
crushed velvet. This is the best way
for an amateur to make it.
The FIounced Skirts.
In the spring novelties there must
be mentioned the fiounced skirts. which
are trimmed with from one to three
wide hounces around the foot. The bot
tom one lies upon the floor; the second
one comes half way up to the knees,
and if there is a third flounce il is as
high as the knees. over this falls the
skirt proper, looking like a semi-skirt
or overskirt.
A great change is taking place in
dress skirts, and il takes an artistic
dressmaker to cut and hang them. AS
one woman expressed it: MY skirts
are very wide on the floor and very
small at the hips. Yet I can scarcely
tell what makes them So" AS a mat
ter Of fact, the skirts are cut wide all
the way from the belt to the floor. but
they are tucked and shirred around the
hips 10 make them set close
Many of the new skirts are made in
many cores and are laid in inverted
plaits all around the belt. This gives
the skirt full look without adding to
the size Of the hips. Again, a skirt is
gathered or is laid in accordion plated
folds around the belt, while the foot is
Immensely full.
Though skirts are very full, there are
no short women. for every effort is
being made to preserve the height.
Slenderness and taIlness are the two
qualities most earnestly desired by wo-
men. and ali the lines OF the skirt are
drawn with a special eye to height and
slenderness.
Thus II you will study the new gowns
YOU will observe that the skirts, though
Yuu are by no means dumpy in ap-
pearance, and you viii also see that
the lines are long and Rowing, rather
than OF the cutoff order.
A gown. made for woman who has