The daily morning journal and courier., 1904-02-16

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 A revolution in clothes is very gradu- al. Mems attire is most conventional, and it sometimes takes several years for any radical change to be effected. Just now, however, when one looks at the men on the street, at afternoon functions, or at the opera, ball or the ater in the evening, he will see that cretain shades of differences have be- come absolute rules. A few years ago the white waistcoat was rather an ex- ception than general part of a mans attire in the evening. Now one will scarcely ever ee a black waistcoat at the theater or opera. A few seasons ago number of men affected evening coats with velvet collars; none of these are to be seen this winter. The even ing coat is of the very finest vicuna or evening dress cloth, and is finished with silk to the outer edge of the lapels and has very long square tils. In fact 1t Is quite the opposite of the dress coat of eight years ago, which was rather a small garment, with per- ceptible waistline and an idea for the picturesque.
 The trousers going with the evening coat are about the same. They are wide but not voIuminous. They fall straight from the hips and are braided down the side. Indeed, braid is so much in favor that a few of the even ing coats have braid on them, but these are ultra and not conservative.
 The white Waistcoat is a torture un- less it is perfectly fitting, and it is most expensive, because it cannot, when soil ed, be submitted to the tender mercles of the laundry Sometimes it can serve if washed and rough dried, but not stretched. There is possibly one man out of twenty whose white even- ing waistcoat fits Hike the paper on S the wall, and unless it does so it is absolutely useless. There is nothing so trying to the nerves as an ill-ftting white waistcoat. They are expensive, ard some of the tailors refuse to make them for less than $20. A man who goes out frequently must certainly have at least one change of these, and enough for frequent and necessary changes cost more than the entire dress suit.
 The waistcoat may be double or sim gle breasted, but the snartest are of the former style, cut in a very low U shape. There are three buttons or two rows of tree buttons each set very \ close to the other. Buttons are gener- ally of the same white material as the waistcoat, but many gold sets, which are engraved with a monogram or crest. A few even have turquoises and jewels inserted. Many of the waist coats are made of silk, and though very expensive in the beginning, are an economy in the end, because they save the laundry experiment, keep clean longer, and can be sent to a cleaners when very much soiled.
 The plain white shirt is de riguer for evening dress. There is no change in this part of the costume. The shirt buttons may be of pearl, gold, or white enamel, though gold is not much worn now. Sleeve buttons generally match the shirt buttons. All dress shirts have high standing collars. A few men are having the wing collar introduced, but it gives somewhat negligee ap- pearance which is not particularly be- coming The tie is a square white lin- en lawn bow. The knot should be nei- fher narrow or wide, and the tie should not be starched. Evening gloves are white with white-never with black stitching.
 With evening clothes, patent leather pumps and black silk or fine lisle thread stockings are worn.
 The dinner coat is now seldom seen except in the house on informal occa- sions, as when man dimes en familie, or when he goes to his club. He wears with it a black satin bow tie. It is equivalent to military undress, and, hotels in summer, it is seldom seen. The Idea that black bow with even-