Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-03-19
WAYS TO COOK FISH
A NUMBER OF SUGGESTIONS SUIT
ABLE TO THE SEASON.
Rules Governing Selection and Care
Toothsome Luncheon or Din
ner Dishes,

fish at this season-fresh water, Tsalt and
shetland the housewife, If not a strict
observer of Lent from religious motives,
should embrace the opportunity to have
fish often upon her table for reasons both
dietetic and economic.
Like meat the food value and digestibil-
ity of fish vary Some are exceedingly
rich in carbohydrates or fats, and while
rich in fuel or nergy-giving value, are
more difficult of digestion Such are the
salmon, caviare and mackerel. AS a rule,
white-1eshed fish easier of digestion in
that the fat is held in the liver, while in
the dark fish it is dispersed through the en-
tire flesh
eye. If that organ is sunken and dull, pass
him by: so if his flesh Is ttabby. The
gills should be red and the scales bright.
In selecting shell fish, scallops should be
rather small, firm and yellow in color.
Crabs should not only be alive, but very
much so. Those of medium size have the
sweetest meat, but they should be heavy.
If light, they are watery. The Joints should
be firm and the eyes bright and firmly set.
HOLSTERS also should be- heavy, though
preferably small. Freshly boiled ones are
most desirable. To avoid getting those
which have been kept on ice until most of
their sweetness has been lost, turn the
creature on it's back and straighten out it's
tail. If, when the tail is released, it
springs back into its norman curl, you may
be sure it is fresh. 49,
When fish comes from the market, do not
leave it in the hot kitchen untifa more con
venient season, but cleanse at once and put
where it is cold. Even though the fish
man may have gone through process OF
cleansing. it always needs revision.
Fresh water fish are apt to have taste
of mother earth about them and should be
laid in salt water for awhile before COOK.
ing. CLAIMS or oysters in the shell should
be thoroughly scrubbed and rlnsed-.@.
Salt fish usually requires considerable
soaking in fresh water before At IS used.
The time of soaking depends upon the SAT-
mess of the fish. If hard and dry, it some
times requires as much as thirty-siX hours;
the water being changed several times dur
ing the interim.
Broiled Sardines.-Drain the oil from large
sardines, place in a fine wire broiler, and
hold over a clear, hot fire long enough 10
become thoroughly heated through, but not
dried. Have in readiness finger pieces OF
hot toast. lay a sardine on each, moisten
with some of the oil that has been heated
and place on each fish teaspoonful OF
sauce tartare. This makes an excellent rel
ish for a Sunday night supper, or the
"savoury bout" which the English use to
precede the dessert. Herring or herring roe
may be used on toast in the same way
Fish Roes-The most highly esteemed
roes come from shad but those from had
dock, picllerel, carp and mackerel are all
to be desired. The preliminary treatmen
of all roes is the same Parboil ten or flf-
teen minutes in boiling salted water 10
which a tablespoonful of vinegar has been
added, then let them cool in the liquor In
which they were cooked. This hssens the
tendency of roes to plop and splutter IN the
face of the cook. When ready toicook, wipe
dry, brush over with melted butter or olive
oil, season with salt and pepper and brofl
over a clear fire. Or split, dip in flour and
fry in hot pork fat, and serve with lemon
cress, sauce tartare or mayennaise.
Baked Roes.-After parboiling and cool
ing, wipe dry, brush with butter or olive
oil-preferably the latter-sea souTwith salt
and pepper and lay on a weH-buttered
plate. Dredge with flour, splacesthe plate
in the oven and bake about twenty minutes.
basting frequently with { equal parts or
melted butter and hot water seasoned with
salt and pepper. Serve very hot with maitre
dhotel butter and potatoes persillade.
whitehall Whitehall, so popular on Eng
lsh tables, is not as well known here it
deserves to be. One reason may be that
the American white bait is not quite the
same as that on the other side, but is the
fry of young smelt or herring.
To prepare the dainty little fish, wash
with great care in ice water. This is to
keep the flesh firm. Drain and dry thor
oughly by wrapping in napkin and lightly
shaking. Dip in cold milk. and having
mixed together two cups of fine cracker
dust with one cup of -four, roll and shake
the whitehall in this until well coated.
Place. in a fine wire basket and fry in
smoking hot fat for moment, just long
enough to give them amber color. They
should be crisp and dry, but great care is
necessary lest they burn Remove, thor
oughly drain, turn on paper and sprinkle
with salt. Serve at once on hot dish with
folded napkin laid on it. They cool very
rapidly, so they should not be prepared in
advance. Serve with quarters Of lemon.
Cooked after this receipt and then sprin-
killed. with black pepper and cayenne, they
become deviled whitehall
Fried Catfish.-The catfish, hitherto I'M
appreciated by the public at large, is now
declared by the United States fish commits
sioners to be 1.-The most intellectual of the
.finny tribe" While this may add nothing
to its delicacy, it is well to let virtue meet
its own reward. Those already familiar
with its excellencies do not need to be told
that 1t is far and away one of the very best
of pan fishes. Its meat Is crisp, white,
juicy and of superior flavor, inferior only
to white fish and trout.
Soak in cold water for half hour be-
fore cooking, to draw out the blood and any
suspicion of earthly taste. Then roll in