Waterbury evening Democrat., 1904-11-11

i, as the scene is, made brilliant by the
 magnificent costumes of the women,
 you notice the absence of decollete gowns.
 1 In the majority of American restau- | rants one portion is intended for two l people: the lone patron orders T half ! portion. three people portion and q
 half. But there. seems to exist a con- spiracy to take Advantage of patrons l in regard to this matter. Two people | dining together, unless they specify | one portion, often will be charged for | two, and since the average dish costs seyenty-f1ye cents (3s.l one does not have to be penurious to resent such imposition. In restaurants where low lprices prevail. it may. be found speci- fled on the menu that single portion will be served to one person only: if served to two. twenty-five or fifty cents extra will be charged. Both for men and women, the for nal dinner usually commences with cocktail. If the restaurant is fash ionable. wine will appear on the ma jority of tables, though there was a. time when foreigners used to observe it's absence, and champagne Is always served intensely cold Tn such places everything is done of a scale that is magnificent. asl T9
 Princely salaries are paid to the chefs, and the lords of the culinary world have sometimes ten, twenty, and even thirty assistants in their kitchen, while the total force in all departments under Oscar at the Wal dorf numbers 1s50O.
 New York has won certain celeb rity for eccentric dinners, from the famous dinner at the old Sherry's, when music-hall dancer appeared out of an enormous pie, to dance on the table, to the dinner at the new ShefTy's where the diners were all seated on horseback. +ss
 On the menu appear many dishess characteristically American-the sue culent clam, an excellent summer sub stitute for the oyster; the delicious oyster crab, the softshell crab, the far-famed terrapin, the canvas-back duclS--indeed, as many savory dishes as would in themselves complete an elaborate menu.
 Green corn served on the cob is the delight of every true native of Ameri- can soil Holding it, seasoned with butter salt>and pepper in both hands, and separating the corn from the cob with her dazzling white teeth, it is as much her evident enjoyment as anything else which makes the sight of the American woman engaged in tasting this delicious vegetable so pleasant to see.
 Although hardly associated with dinner, tin New England the working classes eat it for breakfasD the Ameri- can pie of green apple, of pumpkin, or of sweet potato and of every kind of fruit deserves passing mention. The English tart, which here is never served except in private houses, is dis tinguished as deep-dish pie-their own pies are made like an English open tart with an upper crust, cheese being served with it as matter of course.
 Whoever is familiar with the cheap tea shops of London recognizes in the dairy lunch rooms of New York far better solution of the problem of pro- viding for people of slender means. For the American principle is here in volved-not to do, just well enough, but as well as possible. And they are tempting places, these great dining halls They are light and airy; at night. brilliantly illuminated. There Is the cleanliness. the order. the sweetness that old associations link with the name of dairy. The floors are tesselated. the high walls of dazzling tiles suImounting marble and the swift moving attendants, dressed in white. maintain the prevailing at mospbere Of freshness. They are m excellent type of the perfection of the entire system of catering for people who delight to take their meal in pub lic-W. 4i. Woodward in London Mail.