The San Francisco call., 1904-07-17
BY Augusta Prescott.

SUMMER Sltl sun mas many
things TO Co
She must keep her wardrobe crisp
after the FIRST freshness has worn off
She must make little additions to it
and must create certain fashionable
changes in order that her gowns may
look new and smart to the very end
OF the sumner The vogue for all hand
work Is Of the greatest assistance to
her in this matter. she can dispense
with great zeal if she is willing to
take her 1eedle ia hard.
She must design little gowns that can
Doe easily made by hand in her own
loom. or failing 10 do this, she must
De- able 10 make alterations in her early
season gowns which shall make them
entirely fresh again. And to do this
requires i.uack and artistic ability am
"a knowledge OF The latest.
Ii is claimed that at Narragansstt
The srrartest dressed girl is one who
knows nothing at All about the styles.
Fresh from the Philippines this summer
belle has brought with her a ward
robe hich is the envy Of every girl
at The Pier she has not seen d Paris
fashion journal "a a year and knows
very Lttie Of American modes. yet her
gowns are altogether the loveliest to
Je found within several days journey
u the famous summer resort.
AID lhis is why they are SO fetching.
They are made OF white stufTs. delicate,
thin white lawn OF the kind that Will
puI through a finger ring. And they
are trimmed with lace put on in pro-
fusion. There are lace ruffies and deep
lace fiounces and there are groups of
tucEs. each tuck edged with lace, and
there are wonderful insets of lace.
These gowns, which are made very
much on the same model. all show the
fun skirt with the tucked hips or the
side plated hips. and they all show the
wide foot fiounce. or. at least. the very
vide foot flare. The waists are slight
ly blouse, buttoned in the back and
made on the shirt waist order.
AT least a dozen Of these gowns are
trimmed with Philippine embroidery.
which is very much like japanese
needlework. 1t is in gay colors and is
employed for cuffs, for the plaits Of
shirt waists. for panels, for girdles, and
for stocks. 1t is also used for whole
yolzes and it is again seen in bands
which extend down over the shoulders
in epGulette shape.
When il comes TO skirt trimmings
nothing could be prettier than the man
ner IN which the Filipino embroidery
is applied. II is used TO head the deep
hoUnces and it is used also to border
nounces. It bands the skirts like an
insertion and it is used TO border lace
insets. And then there is the medallion
frirrrr71fr-rr Trv ~ col
ored embroidery are set in the waists
and skirts Of gowns and surrounded
by a little needlework.
4 Word TO Smart Dresscrs.
II there is a summer girl who has
not yet completed her wardrobe, let
her be guided by a word Of advice. Let
her study the white dresses Of the sea-
son and see If she cannot improve her
wardrobe by adding a white gown or
two, made by hand and trimmed with
handmade fUcks. There is nothing as
smart this season and nothing that
has quite the general approval Of white.
over IN London, where the fashion
able English world gathers at this sea-
son. they are making whole wardrobes
out Of white goods. Mrs. Langtry has
scarcely a colored gown in her ward
4DA~ c-4- III - ~ AAAAA dSElf v uO IL eut
London fashion, wears white almost al
ways.
Unless you are stout" advises an
English tailor. wear nothing but white.
There is nothing in the world that is
half as distinctive and nothing half as
elegant.
The woman who dresses in white
on hot day is as elegantly apart from
al others, from a dress standpoint. as
though she were dressed in cloth OF
gold There is a luster about white,
an attractive finish, certain cool and
elegantly dainty something, which
catches the eye and holds II.
But II you are fat, well"-and this
wita a shrug OF the shoulders-"well,
in that case there is nothing TO be
done Wear dark colors. preferably
black, and keep out Of sight"
The fat woman is undoubtedly the
bette noire Of the French dressmaker and
OF the London tailor. 1t is impossible
10 make her look nice. No matter what
you put on her she still looks over
dressed. And, if allowed to follow her
bent. which is always for the flower and
figured stuffs. she viii be an unhappy
sight 70 behold.
But take my advice" said this
London authority. wear white-if
you can afford it."
Lady Curzon's Gowns.
The Lady Curzon gowns are lovely
70 the last degree. One is a marvel in
fine cream colored India linen. trim
med as so many gowns are, with ORR
entail embroidery. This embroidery is
used in quite a novel manner and in
q way which Will recommend itself