New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1904-08-23
FOR THE HOUSEWIFE.
Good, Nutritious Food She May
Find IN Italian Groceries.


Mulberry Bend and after these coma those OF
Little Italy. on the upper East Side.
Those familiar with the quarter have noticed the
little pots Of green things growing the fire
escapes OF Italian tenement houses. Most people
think they are plants intended for salad but they
are not They are aromatic herbs for seasoning
the beloved oasilico and prezeuola and sregata
OF far of Italy. The basilico. or sweet BASIL is
perhaps the most aromatic, but all deliciously
spicy. One OF the largest grocery firms in Null
berry-st has It's market gardens in New-Jer-
sey. from which 1t has for years supplied its own
store. It has successfully cultivated sweet BASIL
as well as tennel seed and borage. other kitchen
favorites. But aregata 1t has never been able TO
acclimate- All these herbs found dried in
great quantities in Italian groceries.
That standby OF the Italian cook garlic also
refuses TO eHligrate. The American grown garlic
IS far inferior in size and quality. so that the
enormous strings OF garlic, which sees strung
across the italian groceries. Ike the ropes OF
onions hung Up 70 dry IN q Canadian habitants
kitchen. are all imported.
Garlic IS one OF the three things that give italian
cooking its characteristic quality The other two
are cheese and tomatoes. The italian housewife
makes Tse Of cheese in her cookery to an extent
undrearaed OF BY her American sister. She CRATES
IL over every dish of macaront and green's. 1t
forms an Ingredient OF every stufing mixture It
goes into stews and soups, meatbars and omeettes.
MANY KINDS OF CHEESE
Therefore the varieties Of cheese 10 be found In
al Italian grocery are legion and each is named
after the town where It is made Perhaps the
Roman cheese is the most generally used It is a
very close. firm white cheese. which. with the
passage OF time acquires an active populatio At
this stage its flavor gains richness and pungencY
which render 1t most acceptable to Italian taste;
Just more ar1stocratic palates prefer game when
it IS little high"
Moliterno coarser grained cheese ranks next
in popularity. "Cacio Cavallo'' IS the quaintest OF
al the italian cheeses. It is the shaped like
2 club with a short handle, which is seen hang
ing In long from the ceilings OF Italian
groceries. II IS held IN high esteem BY the Italians
who declare that the longer you keep It the better
II is IN small places the city Italians make
q species Of this cheese and peddle It among the
groceries But the grocers declare ii is made
Of skim milk. with ali the butter taken out and
spells after a few months while the real Italian
! STUFF VIII keep for years ProyaIa ~ very fine,
rich cream cheese.
When he fresh. ne call him provaIa when he
old, he call him provalone." Fravey said the
Italian grocer who was enIightening a customer.
thus outlining the Italian custom grateful the
struggling foreigner. OF giving different 70
the same thing different stages OF its existence.
Ricotta Is q potcheese which comes IN rolls
wrapped IN tinfoL II also IS made by Italians IN
the suburbs and peddlsd through the quarter
THE TOMATO DISGUISED.
As for tomatoes, fortunately there not many
ways O: Disgusting and remaining them But one
form OF tomato is used IN every Italian household,
which Is not known among Americans. This Is the
famous salsa a poulidoro." the tomato sauce
which IS imported in millions Of little cans At
home all good italian housewives make their own
conserve. and IN this country many Of them make
the sauce when tomatoes are in season and they
want their nacarouI especially nice Il takes
hour more 10 make the sauce for the dinner
dish Of maca-oui. The tomatoes, seasoned with
onions garlic parsley and few sprtgs Of SONS
aromatic herb. put TO stew without water. ana
simmer an hour more IN their own juice. The
moisture OF the tomatoes evaporates. leaving the
solid parts. which are eventually rubbed through
d coander, which process strains out all the seeds
and skins. and leaves thin tomato Jelly. The
Italians attach extraordinary Importance TO this
tomato sauce, which is used by the north Italians
on their rice as much BY the southerners on
their nacaronI The American paiate cannot ind
enough in Il 70 for the tins and russ ir takes
The adventurous American housewife, straying
dows OF the queer. foreign looking little groceries
among their queer shaped cheeses and the canned
saerita on their haYnboyant sides She might find
many things II she knew what TO ask for.
pound are excellent substitute for the more
expensive bottled olives OF the american grocery,
quart. and there is cottonseed in it,
PEPPERS HOLD HONORED PLACE
Among the imported canned goods roast peppers
hold an honored place. They roasted, peeled.
seeded and put up olive oil Thus prepared they
make a most appetlzng relish with
They come in red and yellow all nice. pretty col
ors." said the brown eyed Mulberry-st- housewife
who making a marketing tour with a Tribune
reporter Nice pretty colors' really seem
der an eatabe more appetzing to the italian
palate. They pay 20 cents bottle for Italian
vinegar merely account Of its rich. crimson
color.
We don't like the American vinegar" explained
the housewife There's taste to It. but there's
color to it."
In the fall every housewife on A1ulberry-st puts
UP enough peppers 10 last her until the fresh
come again Just about this time of the year in
d walk down Mulberry-st. the eye will assaulted
by splendid spIashes Of color. the great masses
Of scarlet ripe peppers loading the push
and pickle them u tubs or Jars OF salt water:
Others put them unbroken IN can Of vinegar and
will keep any length Of time.
supply the place OF meat in the Italian menu
One stufhng mixture is always used by the Ital-
main ingredients bread crumbs grated cheese
and beaten eggs seasoned with "a few saTi!cs
chopped olives according TO taste may be added
hearty enough and highly seasoned enough
supply the place CT meat to any palate not hope
Artichokes come raw. merely canned in salt
water and be boiled before eating. or dipped
grades are Sold in bulk from the pushcarts
Italian peas much HAe Ts 6an rin FPsnG5 P peas
in hot water and put up In syrup and touuy nsh in
olive oil among the canned goods in the
There is also an astonishing variety of beans
vefch peas or cSef pea strikes the American eye as
cross between peas and beans leans II is a very
italians SOAK It overnight and then boil 4 as
nearly tender. broken macaroni is thrown in;
The vetch comes at cents q pint and three cents
and about half LOAF Of bread TO each person. VIII
make all that three or four Italians can eat at
Lentlls are tiny black beans s about the size Of
CHI SfeV mi Ad all