Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-09
SHORT COATS AGAIN
Shorter the Jacket, Smarter
the Costume.
STOUT GIRLS TERROR
ARE THE SHIRRINGS THAT
OTHERS MAY WEAR.
The Girdle Plays an Important Part in
the Spring Make
Up.

Written for The Evening Star by Harriet Hawley.
the spring jacket.
And the more I am trimmed the better
like it, retalates the spring skirt.
From which conversation, selected at
random from of the fashionable shop
windows, it may rightly be gathered that
Dame Fashion has dispensed her favors
evenly this spring. The tall girl may revel
in her ability to carry the trying trimmed
skirt. and the short girl may thank her
stars that the short Jacket has replaced the
long modes of winter Therefore, let the
feminine world sit down together peacefully
to discuss the dressy costumes for early
spring wear.
First, as to skirts. While trimming IS
used in great quantities., the lines which
give height and grace to the feminine figure
are carefully preserved. Embroidered
bands, stitched bands. lace galloons over
velvet or cloth, tucks and folds are all laid
lengthwise, on the up-and-down, and do
not run around the skirt.
If there is the slightest tendency to ar
range the trimming hoop-fashion around
the skirt. the fatal suggestion of cutting
the figure into sections is removed by de-
fecting the curved lines to points. For in
stance, instead of round fiounces, the
founces are cut in V-shaped points, which
really makes the nSure look taller.
Another merciful dispensation of Fash
ions providence is shown in the accessories
to the short Etons. which the tall as well
as the short woman is doomed to wear.
The girl with long athletic limbs and rather
SEort waist regards the short jacket with
fear and trembling, but this feeling is mitI-
gated by the sleeve founces and tabots
of lace which fairly bury the short lines or
the jacket.
Silken Wrinkles.
For the very long wasted girl there is the
blessing of the SOFT silken girdle. Incl
dentally, word about the building of cir
dies. The word building is used advised
ly, for girdle is not thing to be thrown
together from scraps of silk and lace with
out well-reared foundation. The English
call the girdle corselet, and the word GER
tainly suggests a perfect fit The home
dresSmaker who intends to brighten her
spring frocks by girdles of various sorts
should have her first model fitted perfectly
and cut each foundation from the model.
boning the girdle with infinite care Then
upon this foundation can be reared the bias
folds of silk, the bands of Dresden ribbon
or velvet, the lace or dull embroidery the
latter to be laid very fiat and smooth
dainty girdle of brown velvet ribbon, to
be worn with champagne cloth costume
was finished at the back with four long
loops of the ribbon and two long ends. Two
of the loops are caught at the top of the
girdle with buckles of dull gold shading to
copper, and a similar buckle is attached
where the loops and ends meet, thus giving
a V-shaped effect to the loops which turn
up.
Another dainty girdIe is high in the
back, but graduated to a point In the front.
1t Is built from Dresden ribbon in softest
tints of pale green and pink. and caught at
the front with ring crocheted with green
silk Smaller rings, five In number, are used
at the center of the back and serve as a
starting point for five bands of inch and a
quarter ribbon to gradually taper down to
a single width at the front.
Comes High Priced.
For the vests and jabots used in dressy
costumes, lace seems to be preferred above
all other fabrics, but for more severe eff
fects semi-tailored creations rich and va
riegated embroidery is employed. This
comes as high as SIS yard. and very
little is enough to give certain touch of
up-to-dateness to costume.
Some idea of the colors used In these en-
broideIies is gained from the comDinatioa
part OF the trousseau of Princess Alice of
Albany, a reproduction of which was dis
played at recent opening.
made from dark blue broadcioth Of silky
finish but the vest was OF cream cloth,
closely and heavily embroidered in black.
sureested braiding in its design. and the
vest was finished with small gold buttons.
For armures and similar silks hand-run
tucking seems to be a popular form OF dec
oration. and one that lends itself admirably
to the paneled skirt and the short Jacket.
pretty model in brown satin armHre has
a skirt built in three sections. arranged on
either side of the panel front. These sec
tons, not unlike three deep founces. are
decorated with the hand-run tucks in a
wayy pattern. but the paneled front Is
plain The short. coliarless Elton has no
trimming except the tucks. an edgfng OF
twisted and stitched velvet ribbon to simu-
late braid. and tiny dull gold buttons. The
sleeves are slashed In a fanciful pattern,