The San Francisco call., 1904-04-24
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fullness of the hips and back. The front
was plain and hung straight In one
wide -unbroken panel The skirt, which
was for evening wear, swept away long
in what is called dip length. 1t was
three inches too long in front and at
least six inches too long in the back
This skirt was cut with straight cores
which were sewed together straight up
and down and shirred around the top
The band of the skirt, instead OF being
pulled down in front, was buttoned
straight around the waist.
The bodice was cut like shirtwaist
with point which was pulled down low
in the middle OF the front over the skirt
band. There were ruffies around the
shoulders, which we're put on to look
like shoulder capes. One fell well over
the shoulder and down over the arm
The result was charming, for the
woman, instead of gaining flesh by put
ting on this gown, seemed to grow
thinner. She actually gained in grace
as she walked in this gown, and that
sausagesque likeness which affiicts the
fat woman in tight fitting skirt dis
appeare6 entirely.
The stout woman can wear the 1880
lines # she viii study them a little. She
can really add to her inches not little
and can make her hips less prominent
by treating them In suitable way.
A great change is taking place in
shoulders. They are now cut very long
indeed and are ten inches and even
foot deep. One pair Of shoulders hung
way down over the arm and made a,
sort Of shoulderette. The epaulette Is
now old-fashioned and the shoulder
ette. made by cutting the shoulder very
deep, has quite taken its place
4 In addition to this. the sleeves are
being slit. The sleeves. especially OF
coats. are cut on the outside almost
up to.the elbow and through this open
ing d wide lingerie cuff is pulled. This
hangs down long and can be as elegant
ly decorated with lace as the purse Of
the wearer will permit. An entire cuff.
all of the most delicate lace. was pulled
out of the slit at the back OF sleeve
worn by one Of the most elegant women
of society.
A woman who wears the prettiest lin
gerie cuffs OF the season is Mrs Clar-
ence Mackay. who dresses in black, with
only the wide lace cuffs to relieve the
monotony OF the gown. Her laces are
the finest and her sleeves are marvels
IN hanging, dangling ruff1es. which are
SO arranged that they fall far below
the waist line.
The kimono coats are lovely. They
are trimmed with Persian. with bands
of insertion, with wonderful applica-
tions and with lace. There are very
elaborate embroideries upon them. And
one kimono coat was trimmed with ro-
settes of ribbon, while In the middle
of each rosette there nestled a little
blush rose. surrounded by a RUNE Of
lace.
1t is impossible to deny the fact that
dresses are becoming more and more
riotously extravagant and where gowns
once cost a moderate sum the price now
scars skyward at an alarming rate
The woman who was content with a
cloth suit last spring. moderately trim
med. must now have one OF light colors,
decorated In the most lavish manner.
It must be covered with bands OF ap-
pliQue. with ruffies. 1t must have a
trace OF soutache separating the bands
and there must be swirls OF ribbon ana
rosettes Of lace, with a tiny button In
the middle. Great button molds, COW
cred with a crocheted outside. stand
sentinel UP the front OF the waist. And
this Is the way the cloth gowns Of the
season are made,