The Montgomery advertiser., 1904-08-21

|pyucn more ussfsh than the loael &nlk On the other hand. very few w61l 1Qd1 { we'll in short skirts If 1t is infep4eo eo3
 wear the costume for afternoon or toe M1y [ smart affair the short skirt does nct looo Z we'll. It somehow seems out Of ke1peMG and consequently iss e, rule feDe1H1e0 to% more serviceable occasions. ve1line U0Wno
 with short skirts are all made on nlml9o
 models without any trimming. RvS ~ u1o
 mater4ais itself while the ctoth ooeo stTanse oo say. are very ela*srassW and often with velvet ribbon.
 Cheeks and stripes in ltgfzt Wedghe chevtot or cloth are extremely snart tht1 year. and mauve and white or red and white are the favorfte colors. Hed on t11es loerise order Is unquestionabIy the nNunt tashionable color of the season. and in { these light cloths the cerise. with . line q white or with tiny chec1< Of red and white. is certainly most efEective. There arc conservative people who con tend that 1t is a mistake to trim cloth
 gowns elaborately or to make up cloth In any elaborate fashion. For the moment these individuals are drowned under the gowns. excepting a few on the hard wear.
 tailor made order, are no longer popular. The model for q red and white cloth gown with a houncod skirt. one wide gathere6 founce, then a narrower and leSs full 0ne,i each headed by scalloped bands of the ma terial. is becoming design. While full at; the back of the skirt and also at the foot, 1t fits closer around the hips thanl1o most of the new styles. The waist is In Jacket effect. blousing just little over w1de
 bias belt of the material, and is trimmed
 with bands of the cloth.
 SHELVES ENORMOUS AND ELABORATE.
 The sleeves are enormous. gathered st tho shoulder, and hang in wide, large pufks
 which arc finished below the elbow with Ia box pleated rufiie several inches deep. |around which is a broad band of the cIoth.
 Al may be imagined. this is ratheD>a . |clumsy and certainly very warm styie
 for summer. but the material h excsed-
 ing1y light, and laxge sleeve is not 70 hot as a close fitting one. After all. in following the fashion one need not be 70 uncomfortable as might bo supposed. and then. besides. in q costume of this sort one is 50 sure of being absolutely up to data that slight inconveniences are made light. of. ss< This is one of the seasons when the |remodelling of last years gowns is a very
 serious matter. in spite of the fact that there are so many different styiea tlza< are fashionable. The arrangement of the
 fuiness around the hips and in thu beck
 Is quite problem, and thero aro veEy
 few figures that look well wit1a fs1lnens
 in the front as welisas at the ddes and ih
 me most popular skirt sollowine thsSs Hnes Is the one that has plain front breadth which is quite narrow at the top
 and fiarins toward tho foot. Tho 4s,Rness
 at the aides and back is oheAlned
 by gathers. pleats or sharrinE2 When
 too much fulless over the hipe looks
 bad, then the gathers are much furt31ar apart there. If the skirt ia plssted the pleats are laid one over the otfery end the
 extra material Is cut away, and, then d. rectiy in the back there may be small
 tucks instead of either gathers or pleqta
 An excellent skirt model for e stout per-
 son who wishes to be in the fashion is the box pleated one with small box paeats qu1te far apart and So arranged that they corns
 close together at the waist. These ara
 stitched down to some distance below the
 hips, and then between the box pleats sew
 erai fine tuclxs or cordings arc placed. This style makes 1t possible to have quite
 lot of material used and obtain the full
 effect that is so extremely popular, and at the same, time 1t does not add any size
 to the figure.
 Too much attention cannot be paid to the
 drop skirt or lining of all the dress skirts
 of the present day. Very often a woman
 wonders why her skirt does not hang well
 WIiSIl tL dpk<1Ielftiy Itts Woil. AHl8 tfQ1IA8 Is entirely In the lining. The lining or drop skirt, therefore. should be carefully fitted. the darts put in at just the right place. tho,
 fulness drawn we'll to the back. Careful attention to these details makes 1t much easier to hang the skirt of a dress we'll. The full wide short skirts that are so very fashionable at the present moment are by no means easy to make--that is. to hang well-but, as has been said, when this iin- ling question is once settled the rest ia
 much easier.
 All skirts are tremendously trimmed. ur-
 less they are of the severely classic order with the trimming just around the hem in fiat embroidery. or applique. Each new de- Isign that comes out seems to furnish bet ter opportunity for ruchings, bands, tuclxs, lpleats, bias folds, passementerie, and so on indefinitely. and using all sorts of different trimming on the one slnirt does not seem to be thought in the least iucongruous. A. T. AEETNOEnE.