The St. Louis Republic., 1904-10-09

copied from the garb Of the men Of that
period rather than from the women.
The pufed and slashed sleeve and
doublet vas distinctively masculine style;
the picturesque plume hat belonged to the
| other sex: and the aII-conceaIlng long
cloak was the correct travelling garment
for the men-the women Of those days re-
mained at home.
NOVEL CUT IN CoRsErs.
30 what with the broad shoulder the
smaller. rounder and more slender waist
by the way the novel cut in corsets ac-
conplislles this without undue tightness
or lacing elther-in order 10 make the ST.
houette comply with artistic requirements
Dame Fashion orders the fullest Of skirts.
No longer is FIVE yards q full skirt. rath-
er is 1t double that width. and in the soft
crepes de Chine. the veilings and such. ten
yards is not any more apparent than i've
yards was in the heavier materials.
La mode soupIe. as Paris terms this
new departure. has crept even into the
realms Of the tsiIor-made.
Voiies and the yelling weavea generally
were taken up by the taiiors in the spring.
and had measure Of success in the deni-
tailIeur or dressier Of the railroad modes.
Now II is the one-seam crepe de Chine
that holds all their attention, develops
their best styles and triumphantly de-
clares itself the material par excellence Of
the season.
The taiIor-made widths IN crepe. a. the
new double yard and a quarter and the
yard and g half widths are termed IN the
shops. are really a boon TO the dress
maker, be she amateur or professional. as
well as to the tailor.
Dame Fashion still demands tina. the
slender. sloping hip he maintained. and 20
the minimum Of bulk at this spot IL i'm
perative.
Just how 10 accomplish this. and stiIl at
tain the correct width at the hem IL the
problem that vexes the soul of the dress
maker. and the more 50 when she has q
stout figure to contend with.
But the one-seam skirt that demands
the double width crepe de Chine accom-
plIshes this beautifully; and its softly
hanging folds are simply bound to add
height and slenderness to even the short
est and most dumpy figure
TRIMMINGS ELABORATE.
While the cut in skirts Is pretty much
the same for all classes OF figure, II IL in
the disposal of the trimming and the
trimming schemes that the smart eoutu- |
riere makes her most conspicuous tr!- |
umphs. And the trimmings are all 20 |
elaborate.
Encrustations Of lace are hordered and |
defined with rufffnss and ruchinss OF the |
tiniest ribbons. The lace itself Is beaded |
and spansfed in the fafrest OF effects. |
Braids and braidings tax the ingenuity Of |
the designer TO provide new patterns and |
devise new appearances.
Fiuted. puffed and corded bands are an |
IN good standing. and may be applied |
either in plain straight lines. or in wevy
effects. iHtersectfng circles and the like. |
Indeed. almost any sort o. trimming
scheme can be carried out and still Be well |
within the pale Of fashion.
In spite Of runors to the contrary, yoke |
effects are seen on many Of tbs imported
models OF those sheer crepes.
The stimulation Of a yoke is there, but
It Is merely that the sArt. to conform to
the mode. Is built in several sections. IN
deed. the sectional skirt is the simplest
and easiest solution Of present problems.
When the figure Is slender the upper
part is sometimes disposed in shirred
2uffs, then tucked band to the knee, the
.ucks running lengthw1se, will offset the
effect OF the little purs;
md fror1 there the skirt Is applied in full