Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-05-07
are all short and shirt Yajst hats charming
iy youthful and becoming.
hut To return to hodiceH,

are all short and shirt waist hats caarmihs-
~ youthful and becoming
The fsncy blouse 10 a thing Of fuff and
made too loose, Exclusive styles. which
both hs shops aa private sn atf Sav ars
fragile textures, vast quantity Of material
Yet all fullness is 80 carefully held in at
necessary points that bodice OF this sort
is more SHINING than otherwise Both
the waist and hips seem smaller through
the bouffant prettiness which hangs over
the belt, for the blouse which bulges over
the girdle is a fashionable and frequent
sight.
Soft Silks and Mulls.
All silks which are pliable may be en-
ployed for these charming waists; also
mousseline. null. soft finished swiss. The
wide belts worn with them are more effec-
tive when in silk or satin and, of course. the
accompanying skirts match in dressiness.
A smart street get-up, which has taken
the spring by storm and which threatens to
continue with us for months to come, is
that which displays a short pleated skirt, a
fancy little Jacket Of some loose and cur
tailed description, and a bouffant under
blouse of the sort mentioned.
The Jacket takes many forms-close eton,
loose bolero or tailed blouse. But its bishop
sleeves ere always immensely big, and vari-
Gus trimmings and cuts drop the shoulders,
In numbers of cases, to incredible depths,
though women of taste eschew marked ex-
aggeraticns. An inch below the usual arm
hole is thought a low enough shoulder line
for the average wearer, and to drop It fur
Their than this. as dressmakers will tell you,
is to dump the figure
Curious as 1t may SEEM the instep-length
skirts. which are SO much worn, are not
shortening to height which, perhaps, ac-
counts for their immense vogue. When
made by good lands. as they need to be,
vory hu md fr1t Oh, 1no1r fc n1, foiv
as well as one OF decided comfort. Fitting
snugly, but not too snugly, down to points
varying in depth, the bottoms of all fiirt
out becomingly over the feet, with here and
there model suggesting a back shorter
than the front This is not really the case
though. The bottom of the skirt is merely
round; and when one trips jauntily by with
on. aid Of the wearer's hands one sings
paean to the gods of fashion. Like the
slaves OF ancient days only too long have
we borne trains and even If 1t was her own
train woman is weary of the bondage.
Short Odd Jackets.
Among the many short jacket models,
which, when in odd shape are most fire.
quently seen in silk. are some stunning
travelling coats in brilliantine and pongee.
Numbers of these reach as far as the bot
tom of the skirt, but three-quarter lengths
are likewise much favored, and handsome
trimming effects are observed.
long coat of soldier blue brilliantine
has vest of scarlet braided with blue
and white. A plain but effective stole
band, with cape-like shoulder cut, trims
the front of this coat. Around this band,
and edging the one on the wide sleeve the
color scheme of the vest is carried out
with a narrow border of white held down
with scarlet bone buttons. The hat for
this stylish "duster,'' which forms part of
the trousseau of June bride. is of scarlet
chip with a white and blue edge, and
masses Of red and white flowers.
A less magnificent travelling coat Is OF
ecru shantung pOngee, which material is
much used for protective garments as
well as for shirt waists and shirt waist
dresses.
Many kinks for practically and comfort
are shown by these coats. With some for
automobile or simple travelling wear
strap system Is employed to hold revers,
collars and cuffs in place, which details
when freed Of this restraint fold over to
protect chest and hands. A great many of
the rain coats are made In this way. ana
when these are in becoming cuts and text
ures they are often used In dry weather,
for the rain coats of the day do not adj
vertise themselves as such.
Best to Choose.
Since the subject Of travelling has been
introduced, word may as well be said
on the subject Of gowns. Only materials
which shed the dust are, of course. strictly
speaking regarded as correct travelling
textures But among the brilliantines and
alpacas, and aeoliennes long used, one now
comes across silk travelling frocks of de-
lightful elegance. In tiny. checks Of many
effective color combinations. these silks.
which the slippery taffeta order, are
made even gayer with contrasting ptpings
A bewitching little frock in black and
white check had pipings Of red and black.
short skirt, finely SIDE pleated, ana a,a
tops, was the model Of this. The little jack
ct fell over a blouse of scarlet batiste, and
under the back Of the black chip sailor hat
appeared most of the trimming. The hat
brim itself turning up smartly at the rear
quite a deep crown band, the under
space hung with festoons OF soft loufsdne
ribbon in vivid red, the ends Of the under
decking shortening toward the front, and
finishing in two bows over the ears.
The effect Of this or the pretty girl VINO
essayed the headpiece was coquetttsh In the
extreme. Numbers of other sailor hats show
most part 1t is confined to the back, where
the trimming that falls is taking on a new
lease.
The Countless Shades.
Countless are the shades Of brown shown
by travelling gowns, hats etc., and the new
est tint unpoetic as 1t may seem, is called
mud brown" Pale blue contrasts stylish
iy with this and relieves the unbecoming-
ness of the shade, brown, whatever nuance
it takes, requiring always some contrast
A splendid carriage toilet in mud brown
chiffon is put over pale blue 1ouisine and
trimmed with small rosettes of the same
A blouse of ochre-colored muslin, very
bouffant and inset with rare lace, accom-
panied this.
Ecaille, tortoise-shell brown, is another
shade in this fashionable color, which con-
tinues to be vastly liked and shows itself
In hats, gloves, lace wells and even silk
petticoats.
The smartest shirt waist suits which are
not blue or black seem invariably to be
brown. But touches of white, and white
under blouses, relieve the majority of them;
and a good point is always made by having
white in the petticoat and hat.
In Paris, especially with black dresses,
the hat and the underskirt strike the same
color note. If the petticoat is purple the
headpiece Is purple-and the same way with
all other shades. MARY DEAN.