New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1904-07-22
THE ITALIAN CUISINE.
Nutritious Dishes Made Without Meat
Macaroni in Various WAYS.

prominent place in history. and its laborers. in
vading America by millions. do the hardest work
and make money it, = diet which the Arneri-
can workman would consider impossible.
Meat is the most unimportant article of food
the menu Of the Italian people. a whole and
macaroni the most important. To a large extent
rice takes the place OF macaroni in North Italy.
for IT is raised there, ard is cheap Still macaroni
is eaten in every corner of Italy, though the north
has the fondness for it the south.
The famous Neapolitan macaroni which is the
rnacaroui OF all South Italy is always cooked with
tomato sauce, and the preparation OF the sauce is
much the most important part OF the process.
They fresh tomatoes in Italy. generally canned
ones this country
There is number Of different kinds of
macaronl, rather different styles, for they seem
TO differ only in shape and size To Americans IT
is all macaroni. but the Italians. who love differ
word for every shade Of meaning. have name
for every style. The largest size, big round tubes.
is "racaroai di zita,' bride macaroni. Mezzant
and spaghetti come next 'I,iugua di passi'-
sParrows' tongues-are fiat like noodles. and
'Tassagne" the long. nat strips hung out TO
dry in front OF the little factories in the
Italian quarters OF New-York. Pastna, in grains
Ike barley and spaghettini long and fine like hay,
used in soup. There all manner OF fancy
shapes rings and curls AID stripes, and 'noca-
telh" little bows One variety. shaped like human
they irreverenty dub priests ears"
STANDARD Disc.
Americans DO not half appreciate the posi-
biities OF macaroni. When Italians of good family
and comfortable means make il their standard
dinner dish day after day. Just Americans take
coffee for breakfast. 1t would TO have food
possibilities n It which Will bear investigation.
Italian macaroni should be used. II
three cents more pound than the American
product. but will ever eat the latter again
after once tasting the sweet. nutty favor OF the
true Italian paste. The difference Is partly in
the making. but more in the variety OF wheat
used The true macaroui wheat Is not grown In
America. italian macaroni be purchased at
any OF the little Italian groceries the lower part
Of the city, in Blocker, Mulberry, Elizabeth or
any Of the adjoining streets. 1t costs or s cents
u pound The taste FOR macaroni grows with what
Il feeds on. until comes finally 10 understand
how Italians can eat II they do. The erpIana-
ton Is That it is pure wheat. Of the most uour-
ishinG substances known to mankind: and the but
ter. cheese oil with which it Is served supply
the lacking oils and fats
To cook II plunge the macaroni in a generous.
kettle OF boiling water. and boil till tender some
fifteen or twenty minutes. Serve a bowl OF grated
cheese with IL pound OF macaroni makes a
good p!atefuI apiece for four persons.
ITALIAN CHEEsEs
The Italian cheeses should b. used Kept in tin
and grated fresh for each meal. they will remain
eatabls TIL the last morsel is grated away. The
Roman and PaTmesan cheese standard
rieties. Grated and bottled ready for use they
3 a pound in the better class OF American
groceries. but they be had in bulk for from 30
70 So a pound Italian groceries
OF the boiled macaroni IN the bottom Of earthen
crock or any baking dish Cover with a layer OF
tomatoes fresh or canned. then a layer OF grated
cheese Season well with salt and pepper. sprinkle
Jumps OF butter. shreds % onion and bits OF
leftover cold cold boiled potato. II desired
Add another layer Of nacaror!. and so continue 10
the top. which cover with grated cheese Italians
would add garlic. and smart American cookery
books would also recommend II. but the plain
American palate would better fight shy OF this
Let - ba ke n h0t and
and bubbles a the top.
Macaroni with eggs has all the seductiveness OF
Welsh rabbit Beat eggs. two a pound O.
rnacaronl with salt and pepper. and q generous
allowance OF grated cheese Have some butter hot
in the frying pax When the Is boiled put
Il IN the butter and Il with a fork until Il
thoroughly buttered- Then pour IN the eggs and
cheese slowly tossing Il TIL the paste Is thoroughly
coated Il takes only few minutes 70 prepare
this dish. These are all Italian recipes, with the
garlic and olive oil left and they extremely
satisfying for the expense and labor involved
Americans cannot understand the italian mani for
the invariable tomato sauce. and olive oil Is too
pensive and sufficiently agreeable to eat in
quantity with macaroni, as Italians DO.
An Italian who lived much In American families
American cuisine differed from the Italian. lie re
Of milk and butter in cooking Instead OF olive OIL
and the amount OF sweets consumed. AL that vast
- ,ItsT bouseWiYe are unknown 10 her ita-
dessert. ia Italian is '.frutta" fruit. fresh
fruit Is the universal dessert IN lay varied ocfa
Italian housewife preserve fruit-an unneces-
ripe fruit every month in the year; The ital4sn IN
American race pie eaters
THE FRITTO MIsTo.
One OF the triumphs OF italian cookery is the
fr1tto misto rapturousIy appreciated by all tour
lists For this mixed fry the Italian cook takes
vegetables raw or perhaps boiled till nearly done
he cuts them small bits. dips them in beaten |
egg then in bread crumbs, and tries in deep fat
llses for this bits Of cauIinOwer, artichokes and
pumpk n and also calves brains and chicken vers |
golden color. with a sheet OF paper placed on the |
plate beneath absorb the oil 1t is tempting /
speak Of il as '.indursti e fritu"-"gIded fry
A chapter might surely be written on the Italian /
pumpkin. There TO De- millions OF varieties. /
They all the way from yellow 70 black II |
color. and from little fellows a Few inches In /
length great things three or four feet long and !
serpentine in their cOnvOlutlons OF the joys OF /
pumpkin pie most pardonable and traditional OF |
pumpkin rcigns in the fritto misto. and is cooked
Two famous dishes Of North Italy are known
wherever Italian draws breath. one is the
a5d tmato nee and T 6e %lIn
the oven. with Ptacenza cheese grated the top.
This is to the north what macaroni with tomato
sauce Is to the south
The other i the minestrone Of Genoa Mine
strone" mean great soup" The great soup
pioys every kind OF vegetable known but no meat
One may put IN any kind Of green stun handy. but
parsley and basil the last three being invariabie
ingredients. They put in grated Parmesan cheese
When It is nearly done they throw in small pieces
of 'macaroni di rita" the largest OF varieties
For some obscure reason the Genovesi prefer the
big sizes or ulacaron while the South Italians !
prefer the small ones.
Another Dish extremely characteristic OF Genoa
is tribe The tripe IS boiled first. with little |
garlic Then Il is cut in long fine strips. Then 1t
tried in olive oil. This dish will be found IN every |