davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1904-10-16


MNI paint an adequate picture OF
WW New York? And what will he
be-a Taine, to touch its So
eial life with gentle satire; a lola, to
paint poor, simple truth in garments
of needless black and red; Crawford.
first to swiftly sketch beginnings, so
that we may understand what is now;
a-Dfckens, to point only to the light and
shadow cast by the sun of one day;
Tolstoy, to reveal the hidden? The
hghtness and strength, the profundity.
the exaggeration, the. truth of them all
must be in service or the task will be
but begun. There is work for each,
and then another must come to help;
one must come who will treat history
not as romance, nor yet as science, but
as philosophy, or else the work will
lacK depth, will be but pre-Raphael-
lite drawing-a testimony to art. not
truth.
Why am in mood to ask this, you
inquire. However much you wonder,
mine exceeds yours. marvel that
only now is this great city impressing
me in, the way the first question in this
letter indicates. Yet think it must be
so with many visitors: many must see.
only the superficial, bright surface of
New York, and deem that they have
seen all and be more entertained than
enlightened. All, Uncle Silas, what
light I have received in both heart and
mind!
An event of one recent week win
give me a theme to illustrate my mean
ing. Within that week two hotels were
opened in this city, either of which
would have made a nation wide topic
of wondering comment not many years
ago, yet here the event passed with but
some casual press notices, as matter
of but slight general interest. In one
portion of New York's many sided So
cial structure the event was Of almost
paramount Importance: on the other
hand, a vastly greater bulk of popula-
ton did not know that such an event
had occurred, and if they had been in
formed would have had but slight, II
any interest in the matter.
One hotel, am told, stands for the
outlay of some eight millions. 1t pro-
vides patrons with the luxuries the
palaces of few princes offer and which
only American money princes can af-
ford to purchase. There no purchase
BILE luxury, no elegance and refinement
of surroundings the worlds arts and
sciences have produced, is not at COM
mand. The other is a fairylike palace
of pleasure whose throngs of patrons
would seem to be creatures of life
aside from this workaday world, more
like the radiant presentments of the
footlights than the realities of the
world of night and day. Other mil
lions-many of them-have been pour
ed into this palatial pile, all to the pur-
pose, it would seem, to perfect house
of delight, magic spot wherein no
seany thing may rest. Light, color,
music, futtering fabrics-these are the
things Of which it's unsubstantial struc-
ture consists.
Not alone to the class of New York
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-15

confusion is a strain on the nerves such as
afford few days outing and what 1t
rum
HouseWork Cure.
DR.. Hunts practice. Hes largely among
women of wealth who. as he says, would
find homework so distasteful that 1t would
dc them more harm than good; but knew
victim of nervous prostration who was
not cured until her husbands finances be-
came such that she had to discharge her
cook and do her own kitchen work. She
says that the tub and the rolling pin were
her salvation. She became so interested in
them that she forgot her own ailments,
which was the whole secret of the cure.
If you are one of those women who have
no artistic talent. who do not care for a
profession or who have no opportunity to
take up one. take up the nearer labor, that
IT. the home. and make 1t interesting.
Housework can be turned into an art II
you will.
Work does not age a woman. You will
find among the wealthy, the ladies' OF lels-
ure. plenty who have to fight Off wrinkles
They are those who worry. To be sure.
workers do likewise: but it Is their own
fault when they do One of the youngest
appearing women Of thirty have ever met
has supported herself. her sister and her
parents since she was twenty. Sns has
worked from eight to ten hours every enc
of her six days. but she has>the gift SUI
preme-the gift of sunshine.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-15
THE COUNTRY GIRLS COSMETICS.
Nature Supplies Her Lavishly With
Fresh Materials.
From the Pilgrim.

From the Pilgrim.
THE girl living on farm has so many
materials at hand with which to make ac-
ceptable gifts to city friends, and not the
least of these are the ingredients for harm
less but helpful cosmetics. And, by the
way, did you know that word cosmetic was
derived from Greek term sgnifying skill
ed in the art of decoration or ornament?
From the first, rhubarb sprouts and lettuce
leaves on through spinach for coloring
creams and lotions) strawberries, cucum-
bers, wateImelons and ounce, with honey
and milk and nuts. the girl on the farm
has the best and purest materials to choose
from and work with. An expensive Italian
cream is made from the ground green seeds
of cucumbers, melons and pumpkins made
into flour which is slightly perfumed and
made into a paste with sweet cream.
The basis of nearly all washes for
chapped hands is ounce seeds, so one can
make their own at slight expense by add
ing extract Of witch hazel to the emulsion.
With care the girl living on a farm should
have the proverbial rose leaf or peaches
and cream complexion until she Is at least
Seventy-five years of age The juice of Gu
cumberS enters largely into the preparation
of many face creams and watermelon juice
is a famous southern face wash. Tomato
juice Is fine for an oily, greasy skin and the
acid of strawberries rivals that of lemons
a bleaching agent The basis of the
most satisfactory cream is clarified NUT
ton talow, which, made creamy with al
mond oil, sweet with your favorite per-
fume and colored with the juices of lettuce,
spinach, roSN petals or currantS, will give
both beauty and pleasure to the cipent.
Try out mutton suet in double boiler
just as lard is rendered, and when 1t is cold
the top portion, melting it in a bowl
set in hot water, strain through hair
sieve, then through cheese cloth. and heat
in the almond oil or other ingredients while
still creamy. The addition of one dram of
tincture of benzoin or one-half dram of
salicylic acid will prevent the emulsion from
becoming rancid
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-15
SOME CORSET STYLES
THE FEMININE WORLD REFUSES
TO ALTER IT'S FIGURE.
No Small Waists for This Year at
Least-Lovely
Fabrics.

Written for The Evening Star.
Dame Fashion and the world feminine
are at logerheads.
Subject of dispute-corsets.
Madame La Mode has decreed the small
waist and the broad shoulder. Her hum
blest slave has returned like the proven
bal worm and thus discourses:
You may pad my shoulders and sharp
en- the point on my basque or girdle. but
keep your hands off my waist line. For.
10. these many years have | been stru-
CLING to attain a straight front. and now
that | have become amenable to we'll
fitted corsets-and reason-you demand
that + draw my waist line into wasp
like diameter and thus increase the ap-
parent size of my abdomen. Go hence,
Madame La Mode, for | know that | have
attained the distinction of a perfectly hy-
gienic figure and one good to look upon.
will not be distorted"
And that is why the most exclusive cor
setieres offer not a single new curve in
the fashioning of stays.
It's no use, sighed one importer. I'VE
have tried to force the new waist line on
fashionable women, but they refuse to
change. 1t would mean much for us. IL
the feminine figure could be altered from
the straight-front effects now in vogue to
the old-faShioned small-waisted, high
busted lines and curves. Every one in
our line would make money, as the
change would be radical that old stays
would nave TO De thrown away. But Tor
once the American woman stands pat.
She knows what she wants in stays and
she will not yield an inch. AS a result.
modistes must do the figuring. They
must build gowns to simulate small
waists, broad shoulders and high busts.
But the corsets-alaS, no-they VIII not
change.
But this is no sign that the American
woman is not willing to spend a small
fortune on corsets-if she has IL to
spend. The new designs displayed at the
importing houses and in the parlors of
the exclusive corsetieres show to what
Brocaded silks and heavy satins. en-
broidered by hand. are used in building
the stays of the moment. white
ground showing raised flowers in POM
padour designs is popular. and with the
corset, comes a corset bag and sachet
to match The former looks not unlike
the silk bag for carrying slippers and fan
to dancing parties, and has a cord and
tassel finish. by which 1t is hung I'm the
wardrobe. The new corset sachets show
two hearts, connected by a bow of rib
terial is in a plain color to match the
stays, and tiny cupids or pompadour
wreaths are painted or embroidered by
hand.
For a slender girl, a luxurious yet in
expensive corset is built from heavy rib
bon, woven in a lattice pattern. This Is
not first cousin to the ribbon girdle. but
is woven close and firm. The sachets to
match are also ribbons, criss-crossed in
a lattice pattern, and the corset bag may
be built to match. in ribbons of a single
such as white and yellow, or pink and
|, hu
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-15

time to come, the ose-pointed-w
model being reserved for toilettes de cere-
monte and ball costumes. There is, how
is struck by the bolero jacket in number
of graceful variations.
A very attractive bolero effect has its
edges scalloped and trimmed with ruches
The open fronts display a white batiste
chemisette finished with frill of lace. 1t
has leg of mutton sleeves exactly like those
worn in the year 1850. Some of these jacket
waists are built with puffed sleeves, but
the cuff in every instance is tight-fitting
and high.
Wristbands, a rule, are corset shaped
and boned, and very often serve to heighten
| the new shaped bodice artificially, and are
| especially welcomed by the stout woman
or the mondaine with q short waist.
Cloth in the lovely new weaVeS is to be
a fabric employed for the most elaborate
gowns and wraps, and among the most
| fashionable wool materials for certain
costumes is cashmere. This revived ma
terial is exquisitely beautiful in texture,
soft and velvety, and just the right thing
for dresSy indoor frocks. Other smart
fabrics are Scotch plaids cheyiots and
merino, with the prettiest designs over
their surface. Small checked stuffs, beau
tifully enivened with n line of bright
colored silk running through them will
also be popular. Very soft and clinging
vigognes are stunning gown fabrics, with
their mingled and plaid Designs over
which are strewn white or colOred spots.
The most pronounced colors of the sea-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-15
EARRINGS AGAIN IN VOGUE.
Crystallized Dew Drops for the Ears
Worn With Full Dress Toilet.

From the London Daily Mail
A pair of earrings seems now to be an
essential ornament as the finishing touch
of a full dress toilet This is not to be
marveled at, nor is it surprising that the
long drop earring should be in demand
The loveliest pair of drops seen lately
were made of round diamonds instead of
the elongated pear-shaped ones that have
been modish. Each ornament was COM
posed of two diamonds separated by inyis-
ible chains and tipped beneath with pear
shaped emeralds
Very large brooches are returning to
fashion. and If 1t be possible to procure
those that were worn in bygone DAYS to
fasten a fichu they are just the ones that
are most in request. cluster of stones
forming huge boss makes a lovely hroocb
which can be metamorphosed into a pen
dant II need be, though there is not so much
demand as there was for adaptable Jewels
owing to the trouble implied in making the
alteration. INC
Serpent necklaces are rather smart again
ana are so large a size that thew advertise
themselves quite patiently, lying over the
shoulders with the head and tail crossed in
front, blazing ruby tongue and eyos a;s
Terminating the beginning from tha and
ornaments made entirely of gold without
any JeWei whatsoever upon them are with
US. sometimes two or three colors of gold
are mingled in one necklace and in manv IN
stances where loops of chains OF gra1ua tod
sizes are threaded through clasps, In the
venetian manner, the clasps are richly
chased, and are of different color from
the chains they support. Such ornaments
own special fascination as the accompa nj
ments of black evening dresses scattered all
over with jet especially Ii one flaming point
of color Is introduced into the costume in
the form of the new peacock and pheasant
feather ornaments for the hair, which are
composed of the plumage of those birds
heightened In effect by means of paillettes
that sparkle in every light.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-15
Autumn Waists.
From the Pilgrim

FROM the PllgrlM.
The silk waists this fall are made again
of the softest silks. messalines, crepes and
pongees. There Is a silk called peau de
crepe, which is admirably adapted for
waists. 1t Is soft and clinging. and the fact
that in the white and cream shades 1t Iaun-
ders perfectly is greatly in it's favor The
plain colored silks make the most attract
i've blouses. but there are seeded silks, PIN
head checks and polka-dot effects which
make stylish waists; the large bright plaids
are worn also.
Many of the ideas which are seen on the
new coats prevail, too. in the latest blouses.
Either the gigot sleeve or the sleeve with
a deep cuff and puff above are used with
all kinds of waists except the plain shirts
that have regular tailor sleeve.
The long line from the neck to the collar
is arranged on the blouses. just as 1t is on
many of the coats, by cutting the top of the
sleeve long-that is. letting 1t extend in a
long narrow piece quite to the collar and
laying this piece in narrow plait. When
a yoke is used it is apparently Of equal
depth all the way around. not exaggerat-
ingly long over the shoulder. The girdles
for the blouses are quite as high as they
have been. Fagoting is not so much used.
stitched bands. piping and bands of em-
broidery taking its place.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-15

son are the shades Of brown and mac. "A
pale gold called blond Is especlaiy Ielcn
ing and will prove a much more DecominS
color than the ubiquitous grays, "nicn
made many women look as though they
had been washed in soda and had all the
color taken out of them Ierra GOTTA anu
fuschia red are newcomers In the color
field. The velours chiffon and velours I'M
primes-stamped velvet-are perrectiy
Charming and come more than yaru
wide to meet the demand OF the iui.
skirts, which, while think or II, let ne
say will be worn only at the races, al,
ternoon matinees, picture exhibitions ano
the carriage promenades in the Bots De
BoulOgne. =.
At a private exhibition Of gowns In
Rue de la Paix atelier. where the rooms
are bowers of roses and the attenuants
dreams of beauty, procession OF stun
ming gowns fitted in dreamy, entrahc-
ing fashion before my bewiidered eyes.
The following ideas are a few that nave
STAYED with me: One toilet was a charm-
ing creation of changeable old green ana
rose sicilienne with full, grace1uily
flowing jupe. The bolero was cut Just
above the waist line in battlemented
squares tied with tiny bows of silk The
small shawl collar was an EXQUISITE piece
of silk mosaic work inset with nouns OF
black satin embroidered in silver. The
embroidery guimpe, jabot and sleeve ruiz
fles were of tulle lace, and the ceinture
was Of pale blue velvet
The Filet Net.
In this array of beautiful frocks one
noticed that two or three kinds of lace or
needlework were flung together on a
single creation with all the carelessness
of genius. And, speaking of lace, the hlet
variety is taking prominent place in the
dress world and many smart waists or
dark-colored filet net are worn with cloth
skirts matching exactly in tone. There is
a romantic story connected with the crea-
ton of this lace, for it is said that it was
the happy idea of an Italian fishermaid,
who wove her wedding veil on a mesh
like her lovers fishing net
But, to come back to more prosa1c things,
q stunning tailor gown was worn the other
DAY at the Ritz tea room by a smart
American. 1t was of the new mushroom
coiored cloth. The round walking skirt was
formed into double box plaits at the waist,
from which point 1t fiared in the approved
style. The basqued coat had in front a
jaunty little bolero effect which opened to
disclose 4 fetching waistcoat fastened with
three large buttons and piped with brown
velvet, which also made the pointed girdle
ard natty stock collar worn under the linen
turnover. A little bit of frivolity showed it
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-15

pleats and lace. The fastening is a big
bow of pompado9r ribbon. which, by the
way, VIII be much used on evening wraps.
An Imported Model
Another imported model shows chiffon
taffeta cut on severe lines and depending
entirely for its rich effect on yoke and
bertha The pale yellow taffeta is lined
with a figured brocade, which tones into
the solid color and lends body to the gar
ment The sleeves are cut dolman fashion
and are designed to hold without mussing
the ornate bodice sleeves beneath.
The beauty of the garment lies in its
yoke, which is of rose point lace. inset
with hand-embroidered galloons and mo-
tifs. The yoke falls over the shoulder
like an epaulet and is finished with a
strap of sapphire -colored velvet, which
also appears in the collar.
Among the beautiful cloths shown for
evening cloaks is q long. silky camers
hair in white cream. onion and putty col
ors. The surface is broken by discs in
old gold faded colorings. which will ap-
pear also in the embroidered bands or
motifs employed with lace for trimming
the wrap.
An elaborate cloth for evening gowns is
z silky French broadcloth showing at
frequent but regular intervals a conven-
tional square or oblong pattern done in
eyelet work of a contrasting color. The
contrast, however. is not violent but
suggests the tone of the groundwork.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-15
ARE VIVID
YELLOW CRAZE SHOWS IN EVEN.
ING WEAR.
The Athletic Girl Takes Well to
Reindeer Hand Cover
ings.

"A pair of gloves for every gown and half
dozen extra pairs in neutral tones is this
years motto for the up-to-date woman.
For every fabric woven in this season s
fashionable tints glovemakers have dyed a
kid to match. Sometimes the shopper finds
herself bewildered, as in the case of "a
mixed fabric, where the gloves come to
match both the background and the figure.
For instance, a new French button suiting
shows parrot-green silk dot on a dull
brown ground, and the glovemaker offers
both the brown and the green tint in kid.
AS a rule the weil-dressed woman selects
the more quiet color, leaving the vivid
tones, such as green. orange, rose or
sapphfre-bfue to her sister who likes start
ling effects However with the new, strik-
ing tints, such burnt tomato, onion
brown and the peculiar amethyst shadings,
the self-tone gloves must be employed, as
no other coloring seems to tone well with
the suiting.
There seems to be no hard and fast rule
in the matter of length for street gloves.
American manufacturers are offering both
one and twO-button gloves, and from Paris
come quantities of the three-button length.
The one-button glove can be worn only
when the dress and coat sleeve are very
long. Neither Foster hooks nor clasps ap-
pear on the smartest gloves, and large
pearl buttons are used instead.
The athletic girl clings to natural-toned
chamois for early fall wear with her jersey
or golf vest, and later will employ the
heavy, knit glove, which this season will
come in all the popular tones for suitings
and jerseys The tailored maid is now
wearing goatskin or mocha, but her favor
lite winter glove will be the reindeer kid.
She does not permit the top of her glove to
turn back. as her brother still does, but
she buttons it snugly around her wrist.
Thirty-Two Button Now.
In the evening gloves the 16-button Ienpt h
quetaire, partly because elbow sleeves are
in favor. and partly because Dame Fashion
has decreed that for a space between the
short, puffed sleeve or jeweled epaulet eff
feet and the end of a glove. a tempting
glimpse of marble-white or dimpling pink
flesh may. be seen this winter. ..-.f ~.
The white gloves for evening wear have a
rival in pale evening shades to match the
glittering silks and delicate diaphanous
Weaves. Pale yellow will be much worn
with white, as well yellow evening
gowns. and new white evening glove
shows a lining of delicate silk to match the
frock, and even the deeper shades, such as
American beauty red, burnt orange and
gay plaids. These gloves are presumably
for theater wear, and will do away with
the muff, a source of annoyance in the
playhouse. For evening wear black glace
has entirely supplanted the more supple
suede which is rather unfortunate for the
woman with large hands or stout arms.
and very few white suede gloves are being
sold. --#s
The woman whose hands perspire should
avoid the pale-tinted evening gloves and
cling to white, as the delicate colorings
fade in the hands of even the most expert
cleaners.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-15
Ugly High Heels.

Women are much mistaken in thinking
that high heels make the foot look smaller
AS matter of fact. they make 1t look far
larger, as it is compressed into an ugly
fat mass that swells out over the top of
the shoe in anything but graceful man
ner. To put the foot in a well-fitting shoe
of the size that properly belongs to it and
to wear low heels is the best way to pre-
serve the foot in perfect health. If you
wish the foot to appear small by perfectly
natural means always wear black kid or
satin. white shoe should never be worn
except where the foot Is faultless In shape
and very small to look at.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-15

Chic Touches.
The day of small things is here, and it is
III Just such chic touches that costume
becomes ''one apart"
A bit OF interesting millinery news has
come to light which says that the hats worn
with tailored dresses will be less severe this
winter. ard the toque of some becoming
genre is the chapeau par excellence for
these costumes.
Every time l read anything about clothes
l find that most of the space is devoted to
the glorious possibilities of the high crown
ed hat Now, the high-crowned hat is one of
those fatally easy things to make which the
boi pollof have seized upon with avdity
although l really must own up to having
seen very exclusive models of this shape
The moderately high crown will certainly
appeal to smart favor, but the excessive
height of crown will, as ever is the way of
modes, be championed by the ultra modsh
in the worst sense of that term.
the old-fashoned dolman is with us again
in modified style. We live in an age of
progress, and when Nine. la Mode conde-
scends to repeat herself after a lapse Of
years she generally does so for some good
reason.
CATHERINE TALBOT
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-15
A Smart Manteau.

A very smart autumn wrap is carried out
in "mastic cloth adorned with opal but
tons. The wrap is quite of the loose mantle
description, the seams on the shoulders and
on either side being outlined with n double
row of the buttons, while there wide
cape sleeves, the back being scanned down
to several inches above the waist, whence
it falls in dSep fan plaits. gradually widen
ing to the hem.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-15

"Going to take trip to New York? So
am l. Are you in hurry to get there?'
No"
Neither am I. Lets go by balloon.
Chicago Tribune.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-15

either from it's association with past his
tory or from a distinct originality that has
a certain value apart from the esthetic."
This year the exclusive models from the
best houses re-eStabliSh this recognized
principle despite the dress extravaganzas
one often observes marked models and
laden with a thousand fripperies worthy of
a nation of frivolous dolls