The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-01-02

full beauties. They are either built on
very severe lines or they are q mass of
flowing plumes, or their outlines are
softened by punches of tips. An ex-
tremely attractive hat has a straight
brim in the front and on one side. and
at the left side it is turned up abruptly
and caught with a rosette of black
velvet. Another model of rough black
felt is turned up on the left side and
held there with a parrots breast and
head.
Holiday frocks for little girls are as
well very much trimmed For girls
OF IL or IL the skirts are somewhat
htted about the hips. and they are
often hounced with the same fabric or
with lace Accordion plating is also
much in vogue for both skirts and
waists. Fetching muslin frocks are
shirred about the hips and trimmed
with 12-inch ruffles shirred four or five
times at the top where they are sAwed
on, the hem edged with lace Lace col
larS and yokes. of lace or lace and rib
oon, or ribbon and fagot stitching, are
fashioned into yokes, and from these
oftenttmes fall collars of lace Sleeves
are full. and either end at the elbow
or are gathered in at the wrist in mar
row bands of lace or tucked bands. All
white is considered the reigning fancy
OF the hour, but oftentimes color APP
pears in the SASH
The separate waist bavfng fal1s,
somewhat into disfavor, it is a com
fort to learn that the separate coat is
very much the thing. Whicheis to say
that II Is entirely admissible to wear a
nan or three-quarter coat in dark ma
ter1al, with any sort of a dress skirt.
Inc loose coat of cloth, velvet, or other
handsome, heavy material. provided
with very wide sleeves and trimmed
with velvet or lace collar is seen az
erywhere. Military coats are fncreas-
ing IN favor and some models are al
most exactly like the fatigue Jackets
worn by American army officers. They
nave a fitted or half-fitted back, and
are slraight ana loose in the front, ex-
tending about twelve inches below the
waist. Flat braid borders a coat of
this kind, the braid being carried
around the top of the collar in a dou-
pie row down the front and around the
hem- All corners are square and the
coat is closed with braid clasps. Epau-
let pieces trim the shoulders.
Short coats are predicted bv the
Keenest observers of fashion. There is
no doubt that the general trend towards
short Elton with full sleeves and loose
back. but fashion is not always logical
in its processes.
One hears great deal of the 1880 re-
vlval, but it does not really mean much
more than that shoulders are made to
droop and that skirts are full and flow
ing again. The fashionable figure does
not by any means conform to that of
1880. Reference to fashion plates and
to portraits of that period shows that
wasp waists were admired and quite
a fair size of hips were allowed. Skirts
were very full and very short. reaching
barely to the ankle. Hoopskirts do not
appear, but so many ruffled and starch
ed petticoats belonged to the feminine
toilette that the general effect of the
skirt was flaring and bell-like
At the present, although full skirts
are in vogue, fashion demands that the
figure below the waist be made as slen-
der as possible. The natural spring of
| the body, to quote an authority, must
be concealed, or at least softened. az
much as possible. To bring about this
happy result Corsets have been built
with long extensions reaching far down
over the hips in long points which are
| held in place by strips of elastic. Those
that lace down the front are favorites,
they assisting the concealing process in
a manner short of marvellous
snort skirts do belong to the 1880
period. but they belong to many 9th
ers beside. Every so often women re-
bel against the trained skirt and for a
rest and change the short walking skirt
comes in. It always goes out, and that
within a short time. for flowing drap-
cries are too graceful. becoming and
womanly ever to be wholly abandoned.