Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-02-06
HOUSE
HOLD
lINTS

| butchers stall and extends the housekeep-
| er's menu, SO that it includes more than a
| score of tasty dishes Before February and
| we'll into March there is chance, at unre-
! liable dealers, Of getting bob veal. but
| the board of health inspectors in the large
cities vigilant and the traffic in I'M
| wholesome veal is much less than it used to
| be- The city health laws in New York,
which condemn all unwholesome meat
say; mo calf less than four weeks old
when it died shall be brought, held or offer
ed for sale in the city, yet there is small
/ doubt but that quantities of the contraband
! article come and is made up into sausage
and canned chicken even If it can't be dis
posed of as veal
How to tell bob" veal.-You can't tell
much by the size. according to the chemist
| of the New York health department., as
| there is great variation in the breed of
calves. The appearance and feeling are
sticky, gummy, fabby feeling, you may
know it is too young for food. 1t must have
a degree of frmness that an expert soon
| recognizes In bob veal the kidneys are
| always quite soft. You can't make mis-
| take about this.
Veal really should never be used before it
| is six weeks or two months old After that,
not until 1t is -year-old beef.
| With the French. veal is their favorite
| meat. used in the preparation alike of their
| famous sauces, both brown and white and
! for the dainty made-over dishes in which
! they stand unrivaled. Veal is extremely
! high there, but it is worth it and no single
| scrap or bit of bone is wasted. While the
calf is being "fatted" It is fed on milk and
| eggs, which renders the flesh indescribably
| delicate.
The French are very fond of calfs head
| served whole.
| Tete De Veau Entiere.-When the head
| comes from the market already scraped and
| cleaned, all that is necessary to do is to
| scald it and rub with coarse cloth to take
| off any remaining hairs. Have ready a
| saucepan large enough to hold the head
| which should be tied up in thick muslin
| Cover completely with boiling water. Let
| 1t boil UP once twice. skim thoroughly,
| then add salt, pepper, onion, parsley, a
| bay leaf and two or three cloves Push
back on the range where 1t will simmer
| slowly for at least six hours. When done,
! take off the muslin, put the head on white
napkin with a garniture of lemon and
| parsley. trim the ears so that they look
| shapely and put lemon in the mouth. Serve
| with sauce piquante. Save all the broth
| which remains, as it will furnish thick
| jelly, suitable for soups or sauces.
Calls Ears.-These may be prepared as
| follows: Scald in boiling water, rub with a
| coarse cloth. drain and cook for three hours
| in stock simply water with salt, onion
and bay leaf to season. When tender
take out slit the tip of the ear, and, hav-
ing made a rich cream sauce of two spoon
fuls each of butter and flour, cuptul OF
milk stock, with salt, pepper and nutmeg,
simmer the in this for an hour. When
ready to serve, stir in the yolks of two
eggs and little lemon juice and serve on
toast When a more elaborate dish is de-
sired the slit in the ear is extended ana
garniShed with mushrooms or truffleS.
Fricandeau of Veal Larded.-A fricandeau
of veal is one of the thick cushions on the
leg that come on either side of the bone
hoe
cold storage. it pays to buy whole leg,
dividing it into parts, according to the
separation of the veins. Remove the SKIN
first This gives two nice fricandeaus, be-
side outlets. veal for dressing, or a potpie,
and the shank and knuckle for soup STOCK.
Remove all skin and tendon from the
friCandeau and pound with a potato masher
until almost as tender as pulp. This is the
French method of dealing with veal, and is
an essential thing to do. Beef, on the other
hand Is ruined by the pounding process,
which breaks the ibres and lets out the
juices. After the pounding. which makes
veal supremely tender, form into loaf-like
shape and lard the upper part with deli
cate strips of fat, salt pork, season with
salt and pepper, scar In hot lat, sprinkle
with Just a suspicion of powdered sugar
and roast in rather a cool oven or braize.
When sewing garnish with carrots cut in
long strips, peas and potato balls.
Braised Veal-This may be either the
fricandeau prime piece of a leg of veal,
which weighs from three to four pounds,
the shoulder, boned and stuffed, or the
breast Many of the bones of the latter do
not need to be removed. as they become
tender when cooked Braising is the ideal
way of cooking veal-which lacks richness
and requires long and thorough cooking
The old-time braising was done in a regu-
lar braising kettle with a cover which held
coals-thus cooking both the top and the
bottom at the same time. Today, nearly all
braising is done In the oven in shallow
I, 11< tt,,er
ers The seasoned and stuffed meat is put
in the pan, covered with hot stock with an
abundance of herb seasoning and Vege-
tables like young onions and carrots, COW
cred closely, and till brown juicy and thor
Oughly cooked. The time required is usu-
ally about three hours. good forcemeat
to use in stuffing the shoulder or breast of
veal is made in this way:
Forcemeat for Stufffng Veal-Run through
a chopper pound of lean veal and quar-
ter pound of sausage meat. Add to the
crumbs of half a loaf of bread soaked in
cold water, then squeezed dry, table
spoonful of salt, q teaSpoOnful of pepper,
two onions chopped fine and fried in a lit
tie olive oil or butter, and parsley. sage or
thyme to season to taste. Stuff the breast
or shoulder with this mixture and sew up.
Veal Birds-A certain king of Greece.
runs the old story, had an intenseelonging
| for a fish, called an Apply at a time
when he.was so far from the sea that he
| did not suppose his desire could be possibly
| gratified. But his cook was a vertable cor
| don bleu and equal to the occasion.
Out of turnips he made artificial
| "apahy," Disgusting it so clevery by season.
| ing and sauces that even the imperial cpl
| cure was completely deceived.
Game is not always obtainable, but a
| veal bird. carefully seasoned, makes an
| excellent understudy to appear at luncheon
| as dinner entree in lieu of quail, squad or
| reedbird.
| To make them, cut slices from the loin
very thin. Take out the bone. remove the
| skin and extra fat and pound until about
| one-quarter of an inch thick. Trim with
| pieces two and a half by four inches, and
| spread with forcemeat made by choppng
| veal trimmings fine, adding a square inch
! of fat salt pork for each bird. When thor
| oughly chopped, add half as much fine
| cracker crumbs you have meat. Season
| highly with celery salt, pepper cayenne,
! onion juice and lemon. Moisten with one
| beaten egg and little hot water and
| spread the mixture on the meat slices near
ly to the edge Roll tightly and tie or
skewer into shape. Dredge with salt, pep
| per and little flavor apd fry in olive oil
| or butter until golden brown. Be careful
not to get them too dark. When all are
| N hal VIII