Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-12-03
=
QUAINT: /. ] WAL S
1s-1-
Fabrics Unused for Two Gene
ratiop] Are Reappsaring
IN EVENING GOWNS
HEAVY G8os GRAIN AND sATINs
ARE SEEN IN MoDIsH SKIRTS.
Pompadour Ribbons, Chiffon Billows,
With Lace and Flower
Trellises.
IN EVENING GOWNS

derson.
An observing man (and in this day and
age men are wonderfully observing In the
matter Of women's clothes) recently re-
marked that the average evening functions
of the most conventional pattern can hard
ly be distinguished from the costume ball
of year or SC back. This is quite gen.
orally due to the revival of the period
gown. Women who have sufficient indi-
viduality-and unfortunately number who
have no individuality whatever-are DOM
ing evening frocks copied directly from old
paintings and century agone fashion plates.
At one dinner party recently were OBJ
served frocks which revived memories of
the Louis and Directoire periods in France,
and the 1860 frocks in plain. unpretentious
America, to say nothing of some exceeding
ly simple and unconventional gowns from
present-day Paris, which threatens to dis
miss the period fashions now that 1t has
reaped a comfortable financial return from
their temporary vogue.
1t is at once the most exacting and yet
the most lax sartoriaI season that the
feminine world has enjoyed for generations.
A woman may load herself down with
founce upon hounce, shirrings on lace and
lace on shirrings, and not be considered
overdressed. Or she may wear chiffon
or crepe de chine frock almost severe In
its simplicity and be told that she presents
a restful contrast to the birds of paradise
around her.
For evening frocks. either for ceremoni-
Gus functions or for restaurant and thea
ter wear, great latitude is allowed in the
matter of fabrics. The woman who must
count her expenditures carefully may wear
a beautiful and inexpensive evening frock
q~D~ 1IrI. iv, 30 fIn cx,v,v ,1a
and delicately tinted broadcloths Of the
hour, combined with a blouse of the same
shade. but In more delicate fabric, such as
chiffon crepe de chine or tinted lace. the
blouse of contrasting color, however, is
not considered good
A Great Variety.
From this economical but effective COM
bination the gamut Is run through supple
taffetas, failles. old-fashioned gros grains,
silky poplins, peau de sole. heavy, old
fashioned satins, brocades and velvets. The
brocades and old-fashioned silks furnish
extremely picturesque costumes, and are
particularly suited to the development of
Louis gowns with chic coats. Alternate
stripings of velvet and silk are also in
vogue.
Notable for the restaurant or hotel din
.ner and the rtheater are some striking eff
feCts evolved from. supple satinS gown
of white satin trimmed entirely with shir-
rgs and tueks of the same fabric had a
bread jabot effect In rose point lace. over
this was worn a short basque coat with
peplum made from silky white astrachan
cloth. The revereS were of satin heavily
embroidered jim golq, and the belt matched
the reveres, with an, enormous gold clasp
set in pearls, These all-white frocks are
combined, with. sWonderously striking coat
colors, including the: various shades OF
brown, dahliaaand plum s'.s-;s a'-7
For occasions of. ceremony there is no
n ore. effective frock than that which ex-
PLOTS the robe skirt, an ornately trimmed
bodice and a high girdle, which gives the
small-waist- effect These robe skirts are
ali of the richest fabrics over petticoat
of contrasting weight and color. Some
times a petticoat shows, from waist line to
hem in the front, a priceless lace spangled
net or plain satin, heavy with embroidery.
The spangled Gowns.
Spangled gowns have by no means lost
their vogue, but the fact that cheap fmi-
tations have been forced upon the market
has rather hurt the handmade article. The
newest importations in spangled robes show
nultitudes of hounces plain and godet. The
blouse pattern for these imported frocks
requires no trimming save an effective CIR
die, and the entire frock gives the best re-
suit when made over SILK Iounoatlon wen
Another combination which is immensely
popular with women who like delicate col
ors which will yet give somewhat bizarre
effect Is the union of lace or chlHon with
pompadour ribbon. This opens fascinat-
ing field for the girl who makes frocks at
home and who has a good eye Tor color,
and who recognizes a bargain In ribbon
when she sees it. the RIBBON Is employed
as square inSetS or bands.
Artificial flowers in chiffon or the most
delicate of silken or tinted velvet petals
are much used for trimming elaborate even
ing gowns. A dainty model just over from
Ia Sylg ahjf
gathered in full at the waist line and
adorned with graduated insets Of lace, dot
ted at regular intervals with tiny punches
of pink rosebuds picked out with crystal
dewdrops. The corsage is pulit from AFTER
nate rows of lace and shirred tucking of
chiffon with the roSebudS in delicate pink
chiffon The sleeve is really graduated
pleated founce of chiffon held in place by
a strap of flowers. The girdle is of the
softest pink silk
A Flower Dress.
Another flower gown shows the palest
water green chiffon, mounted on supple
cream satin Bodice and skirt are tucked
and shirred deliberately, and the corsage IS
finished with lattice work of field daisies
with golden centers. ms nounce OF the
skirt also has a lattice work of flowers.
pink and blue, properly combined, afford
ono of the Frenchiest Combinations of the
season This is best attained only in the
frockS of imported french WedNeS. rOf III
stance a wonderful weave is this: The
skirt to about two-thirds of the depth
where 1T ends in points, shows plain-white
creme de chine. These points meet other
noints rising upward from the hem in baby
blue. and the junction is overlaid with
slammed pattern in the most delicate pink
rosebud garlands- Understand these are
not different pieces of crepe de chine joined
together. but the fabric Is woven in this
pattern. The skirt is finished at the bot
tom with bias folds of velvet in the most
exousitely delicate tints of pink and olive
green The bodice is shaded from white at
the waist line to baby blue at the top, pink
garlands outlining the corsage.
Elaborate Wraps.
The deeper the feminine world is plunged
into the social season the more elaborate
becomes the evening wrap. The simplest
and most elegant form in which it appears
is the velvet cloakawith or without sleeves.
In the latter ease the cloak takes on pic
turesaue capeIiikee shape with hood to
match. Old-fashioned shawls of the most
elegant weaves are being draped in these
same models. .
All the lace coats are mounted upon chif-
fon foundations. the lining being arranged
in muItitudes of shirrings and pleatings
Accordion pleating still remains the prime
favorite for fluffy Innings. The accordion
pleatings are also employed for trimming
sometimes alone and sometimes with che
mile fringe or a lattice work of chiffon
flowers above them