The Montgomery advertiser., 1904-09-18
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DRESS AND GOSSIP OF PARIS. By Mrs. John Van Horst.

H A CDlll or autumn III tlio Aao
 " mind turns instinctiveiy toward thoughts of how one is to bs | clad for tho winter. ons should begin with an inventory of last years left over gowns and coats, which can. happily. this year do service again, as there will be no radical change to which. with some ingenuity, one cannot readily accommo- date ones wardrobe.
 Hats are to be worn very large and very small. The newest felt is made Of soft. feathery beaver, and the trimming may be as simple as rossible. small model for theater and afternoon wear, is a touue with the brlm of knife pleated taffetas, and the crown of chenille. Tne edges of the silk pleating are finished with tiny black spangles, and across the top of the hat there are two ostrich tips' caught by an elaborate ornament of jet.
 Many of the new skirts are trimmed with several rows of black velvet ribbon or of the same braid or fancy edsinS that finishes the bodices.
 A pretty afternoon dress is made with skirt of fine cloth and Louis AlN. coat fin brocade The coat has long pans but there Is tight fitting belt. and the sleeves are full. -Drocadcs will be used both for afternoon and evening dresses, and pcau de soie is to have an unusual vogue in delicate tints of mauVe ana purple. A most original cycning dress is made in mousseline dc soie of a delicate p"e blue. The plcated skirt has seven gar lands of large artificial roses, mounting from the hem. The garland in the back reaches almost to the waist ""no ''''' fin inc front is only q fow inches aooVe the ground. The bodice is trimmed "i'" ,beso roses and the sleeves oi HouS- so,,ne which fall below the elbow consist a. ,bo shoulder of three simple straps or ,,oc,, velvet finished at each side with rhinestone buckles.
 For opera cloaSs and theater wraps a" enchanting model has been created Ds one of the great couturieres' 1he i'o"' and back of this mysteriousSarihel' e0"- sist each of a half circle cut Tn Fel'et VI oio,h .,, enormous half circle that reach-
 +o tho ground at is widest point Tn o,a direction. while fin the other dlrectIoi ,ts widest point forms the cuHs oI '.' s,oeves Fancy 0 perfect circle toloeo III two and placed over the head or pa''l doII whose arms are extended aho yoU will get the general movement oi uo .,aa,, ,yrich of course, must be adjusted st the waist and wrists.
 hat now as 1t is. and later WILL f,ys Is made of burnt bread brown cloth trimmed with a dark apple green oIo+h and embroidery in green, blue anu ,.o,,r The simple skirt has row or tne o.oo, cloth above IS inches Nom the e,rouna and within IS inches of this fall tbe coat tails of the long jacket edsea with the green cloth and trimmed with broad embroidered collar and reVers' There arc two large pockets over '"' ,,,,,, a1so embroidered and edged with tls ,,roo,, There arc three buttons at each e,ao f., the front of the jacket, which lS .,t,,ntIv open over an inner vest or hsn'- e. brown. embroidered and hnisheo H' 'A' neck with a cravat of green. The sleeves ,,ticb are almost tight-ftting, arc ternil- ,o+ad st the wrist with large broad cuh of the embroidery.
 All trimming on skirts should begin oh'S obou, a foot above tho ground The movement of bodice trimming IS up anu down from the throat to the ne't' nls'eAu of horizontal. as last season.
 A very chlc dress that has been ehoso" ,,,,.,c orten than any other model or the season is made of big blue camei nt. op The skirt there is high band af h,,cls embroidery outlined with an un- ,,,..,irs, uornco of knife plcated tahetas' ', each scollop of this band there are ,hr.o bl,ck buttons with false ou'ton- noios The slerves are terminated witn .rese same unduating bands ana tne bodice is made in the form ol IT., ls,u ,..st of ,ar black embroidery. me oNt'.,, oNt' 'l ,,s;th +lis costume is fiat brim- a uu' tel, v4th a garland of taffetas roses and green le1NS~- ,,..od
 Ths sudden innovation "t lons sNIrlcu ,,ats makes it possible for th"sS W~Ilose ~ ,iqrircs do pot hdrmonizn Mlih lui sNIl'
 t.. c, tba hips very narrow. and yet tn L.,vr n gown wid" and NolHninous at To .l,irt bam. Here, for example IS ',,,,, ,,,,,,rr-..- A rostime suitable to wear Iatn, win fsrs for receptions or the mat ,aco is made with a skirt of silk, very miu on which there are stitched tnree b9nds of cloth with esR an ornamen'aton of embroidery above. ffaSsslhess ls llou" .d ,t tha hrs and over them falls ,b., l,.ne. coat of silk. finished in front with , so,i.s ai iltle bows and jabot. some r,[,tl,,, tt,e Louis XIII. style. The sleeves s,,s ,t ,EA elbow with a rutie of lace and shnuld be worn with long white suede gloves. The charm of the gown Is the com bination Of the three materlaIs ot sueh different textures
 Gauzrs and tulles and embroidered chn- f,ns and sI,anslcd nets arc used for ball dresses.