davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-07-02
The Touch That Makes For Smart


What an important place that tiny
article of Dress the stock, has come to
take in a womans wardrobe, Not a
frock is made which does not owe half
its style to the wonderfully constructed
stock, which in many cases is its chief
adornment-
Lace, mousseline and oriental and fine
French embroidery figure prominently
on the latest designs, and it is the ex
ception to see a stock made without a
tab in front. Sometimes there are three
of these pointed effects arranged to
overlap and fasten at the throat with
a jeweled buckle. A narrow turnover
in an irregular shape makes suitable
finish for the upper edge, and this style
may be varied in thousand ways
Nearly all collars of the fancy type
are made upon thin foundation, usu-
ally mousseline, stiffened occasionally
with silk covered bone.
One of the recent oriental effects
shows a plain collar having a deep
turnover of Chinese or Japanese en-
broidery. Another design displays
graceful grouping of peacock feathers
in the natural blues and green's.
A butterfly stock is an attractive
novelty in silk or embroidered swiss.
The band shows little ornamentation,
sometimes fine tucks or stitchings in
contrasting color, and at the front is
fastened a butterfly shaped piece of the
material. the head and feelers being
made of silk covered wire and reaching
up on to the collar proper to impart a
realistic note.
A smart stock for the tailor girl is
made with a close fitting collar of pique
brought well up round the throat and
fastened at the left side with small
white buttons and loops, while directly
in the center it is curved down to make
a modish point. Four wide up and
down slashes are cut in the pique, the
first two coming just beyond the center
in front and the others having the same
relative position at the back. A fine
linen tape binds the edges of these
slashes, and through them is run a soft
black silk fourth hand fastened with
the regulation knot and with the long
ends drawn through a fifth slit, which
is horizontal and extends across the
front point.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-07-02

seems to be out of the running this
year, and it was certainly cumbersome
and heavy. Bright red silk bathing
costumes are the very newest develop
ment- They are trimmed with the
same shade and worn with red suede
belts, stockings, shoes and headdress.
Light blue and navy blue are the
second choices, and a charming suit of
blue silk has a skirt laid in wide apart,
shallow box plaits and a blouse waist
to correspond, with a deep sailor collar
fashioned from alternate strips of
white lace and white silk, the same silk
and lace forming the loosely knotted tie
at the throat. The waist is defined by
girdle of white wash braid. a large
white Alsatian bow is worn in the hair
Many of the bathing suit skirts are
made circular. with a seam in front.
This cut is particularly graceful.
though difficult to properly mount and
hang. The bathing stockings most
worn this summer are of ribbed silk
and the corset's function is supplied by
bones inserted in the waist. This ar
rangement gives the figure a trim, nat
ty appearance without interfering with
the comfort of the bather. Some light
and rather pretty straw hats have ap-
peared, but my lady who has regard
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-07-02
Fashion Facts From Abroad.

The couture is worn either very high
or quite low. The latest mode is to take
the hair straight up at the sides, gath
ering it high on the top, with a large
black velvet bow, chou or flower placed
at the side.
Fancy buckles, buttons and enamel
ornaments of every description are
worn, and bags worked in colored beads
of the renaissance period and magnif-
Gently jeweled umbrella handles, tinted
mother-of- pearl ornaments, attractive
ly embroidered Wristbands and waist
coats are among the new things.
A return to the wearing of sequins is
noticed, but they are sequins of excep-
tionaI size and beauty, and nothing
poor in the way of dress will be toler
ated nowadays. This is also the case
with paillettes. If you are going to APP
pear in spangles at all you must be
beautifully and plentifully bespangled
lin fact, your dress must be a SHIN
mering, glittering mass, preferably of
jet, enhanced by the lightness of chif
fon or tulle or the beauty of black chif-
fon velours. Black with touch of
color is seldom, if ever, to be tolerated.
Black of the blacklist, however, with
all its delicious lights and shades, is
beautiful. Even dull blacks have
chic all their own.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-07-02

%O make the Fourth glorious and
to declare oneself an independ-
ent hostess-that is, indie
pendent of the old and stereo-
typed ideas of entertaining which have
been in vogue for this great occasion
since the American holiday was first
observed-is to achieve a victory in So
ciaI and domestic science no less re-
nowned than that of war.
With all the rush and hustle of mod
ern life there is now no room to
squeeze in the festivities which once
held sway at this celebration. The
Fourth of July picnic which in the days
that are no more was often the occa-
sion of gathering together the widely
scattered members of a family into a
Jolly reunion is a thing of the past. In
fact. the days for such wholesome and
picturesque forms of amusement have
departed, together with the character
istics of simplicity and single hearted
ness that made these celebrations what
they were
The twentieth century taste has out
grown simplicity in entertaining, and
sentiment, too, for that matter, and
the shooting off of firecrackers. pyro-
technic displays in the evening and the
singing of national airs now please
only the juvenile American
The successful hostess must in this
twentieth century provide something
for the amusement of her guests out of
the beaten track-the more outre, hi
zarre and unusual the better.
Here is a scheme which SmackS of
originality thought out by a clever girl
who will entertain at her country home
a house party over Independence day.
Golf, motoring. tennis and the old, old
game of hearts, with Cupid as score
keeper. will be played throughout the
day. but on the evening of the glorious
Fourth will come the browning fun of
the occasion-a most original and
amusing dinner. For this function the
young hostess will transform her living
room porch into dining ROOM Patri-
otfc and artistic effects will be achieved
by draping American and French flags
around the sides of the inclosu-e, with
tall palms in attractive groups to lend
a touch of cooling green to the mise en-
scene At the top of the piazza will
run a broken line of rich red Japanese
lanterns hung on red, white and blue
ribbon. forming a pretty frieze and
shedding light and an air of gayety
over the al fresco banquet.
The house party, which includes
twelve guests. will sit at a pretty round
table, which is made by placing over
an ordinary kitchen pine table one of
the round wooden tops every hostess
provides in several different sizes for
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-07-02
a Pretty LittIe workba.ket.

A pretty little workbasket is made
of stiff cardboard cut out in four sec
tions, each one about six inches high
and five broad at the top. slanting to
width of three and half inches at the
base. Ribbons at the top and bottom
of each section fasten them together
in form somewhat like a tall straw
berry box. These sections are covered
with ecru crash, and on the outside of
one is attached needle pad covered
with a flap Of canvas. Another side of
this little basket carries tomato pin
cushion made of silk. A third is dec
GRATED with two little emeries in the
form of strawberries. and the last Sec
ton has a pocket in which to kee-;
buttons, spool cotton, braid, etc.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-07-02

with what do the children celebrate
the Fourth of July?" Crackers.
When the sweet course appears these
two questions will have to be answered
before one is served:
eff a woman, what do you do when
you see a mouse?" Ice cream.
Where does a man put an engage
ment ring?" Lady's finger.
Where do you go after the play for
supper?" Cafe.
There are a few questions given by
way of suggestion, but, of course, each
hostess must be guided in her selec-
ton by the menu. The mistakes in
answering the questions will be de-
lightfully funny, and fancy the sport
to be had in jollying the guests who
get the most impossible mixtures and
the poor unfortunates who are raven
Gus with nothing more substantial than
pickle and a cracker to satisfy their
appetites.
Three minutes is the time allowed for
answering each question. The hostess
will keep score and at the end of the
feast will present to the girl who has
dined both wisely and well dainty
muslin sunbonnet "to keep her head
always cooI' and the successful guess
er of the masculine sex with an "um-
brella to ward off storms of a like ma
ture."
The favors at the dinner will be
candy boxes made of white watered
paper emblazoned with flags and the
portrait of Washington. These are
filed with that most patriotic of all
sweets, candied cherries. The ices will
be red and white cherries eaten with
silver Ratchet.
Another novel function not as elab-
crate as the dinner is Fourth of July
tea. The picturesque feature of this
affair is to have the girls who pour tea
and serve the punch dressed in colonial
frocks, quaint bonnets, mitts and SAN
dals. This tea will be held on the lawn
and over the tea and punch tables will
be large Japanese umbrellas, which are
more attractive than hot and uncom-
Portable tents. The ices, sandwiches
and bouillon are served from the house
and passed by the servants.
Should a Fourth of July hostess use
either of these ideas her notions of
originality and patriotism would be
bravely upheld.
ELINOR HEWITT.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-07-02
Fashionable silks.

With the ideas of 1880 regarding de-
sign and trimming comes also the taste
for the silk gown then so prevalent.
During the summer we shall see many
pretty silk frocks. We have a much
greater choice in silk attire than our
grandmothers and our own mothers
had for there are many different makes
which are equally fashionable, and
their prices vary considerably. Taffe-
ia and louisine, much gathered, ruched
and piped, make very quaint and eff
fective dresses. These silks resemble a
very fine, soft glace and wear admira-
bly,. Few ideas would be more useful
to the woman who must go out a good
deal both to evening and day festivi-
ties than the suggestion of black
louisine or taffeta gown, the skirt full
and tucked or frilled and a little gath
cred blouse coat with lace sleeve ruff
f1es and tiny waistcoat of pale blue
brocaded silk. The skirt could be worn
for the theater or quiet dinner, and
an extra bodice with lace guimpe might
easily be devised which could be worn
high or low as occasion arose. Thus
one gown in it's time plays many parts
and finishes it's career as a home even
ing frock.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-07-02

of garments, but that the swagger girl
in the States is adopting all kinds of
Japanese stocks and belts adorned
heavily with handsome gold butterfly
pendants and that dragon embroidered
belts and neckpieces to match are de
rigueur. Rumor goes on to say that at
Newport belle in the exclusive set has
had a rickshaw and coolie imported
from the mikado's land to run her up
and down the fashionable parade. The
fair occupant of the little vehicle will
array herself in a kimono and fiaunt a
dainty paper paraSol. But at the
French capital we are more in sympa-
thy with things Russian, and the most
popular piece of bijouterie at the pres
ent moment is the Russian eagle. This
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-07-02

ornament is carried out in gold, silver
or brilliants- When the last named are
used the beak of the bird is enameled,
also the orb and scepter used in the de-
sign. This is really a beautiful orna-
ment, and it is a pity to allow political
sentiment to interfere with accepting
it as an artistic novelty in the jewelry
line.
Costly lace fans like those in vogue
among court DANES of the time of Ma
poleon 1. are the rage again. The idea
of painting portrait on silk and appli
queing it on a lace fan is not to be de-
spised, but a picture wonderfully exc
cuted in the lace itself is the luxurious
Parisienne's newest object of art. A
young mother often has her portrait,
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-07-02
Fourth of July
Drinks

nASPBERRY CUP. - Crush one
- quart each of raspberries and
currants with a wooden spoon
and add one pound of sugar and a
quart of water. Let this mixture boil
slowly for ten minutes. Strain through
cheesecloth and when cool place on ice.
Fruit BeYerage.-Mash one quart of
ripe berries with half a pound of sugar.
Peel the yellow rind of twelve lemons
very thin, squeeze the juice over the
peel and allow it to stand for twelve
hours. Chop ripe pineapple very fine
and mix with d half pound of sugar.
Let it stand several hours, then strain
the lemon juice and mash the rasp-
berries through a coarse sieve, then the
pineapple. Mix all together. adding
three quarts of water. Stir until the
sugar is dissolved, then strain and chill.
Serve in sherbet glasses, with a slice
of pineapple, lemon and a few rasp-
berries
Pineapple Lemonade.-Pare, eye and
CRATE a large ripe pineapple. Add the
strained juice of four lemons and a
strip made by boiling together for five
minutes four cupfuls of sugar and two
of water. When cold add one quart Of
water. Strain and ice.
half a lemon, one tablespoonful each OF
lime juice and pineapple. four ounces of
sugar and two ounces of shaved ice.
Fill up with milk, shake until foamy
and drink at once.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-07-02

with that of her baby, woven into the
meshes of her lace fan, and charming
conceit it is, to be sure-a fad which
the wealthy and artistic lover of lace
will find pleasure in initiating.
Bathing suits, though hardly to be
classed with accessories, are not often
absent from the summer wardrobe. The
costume de balm of the Parisienne is
apt to be too extreme for ordinary dips
in the ocean, but modified little. moth
ing in this line gives more freedom of
motion and grace. The suits this year
are mostly made of silk in a soft, pill
able taffeta, although brilliantine and
mohair are the favorites of the slender
woman, who rather breads the clinging
qualities of silk when wet. Serge
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-07-02
IRIS. June 1s.-A hutter of

ARTS, June 1S.-A fiutter of ex-
element runs through the
heart of the American colo
mist here in Paris when she
receives a card from a distinguished
member of the Faubourg set upon
which is announced a certain charity
fete held at the residence of the Du-
cheese X, where the "Comtesse de b.
will have flower STALL" These Pari-
sian mondaines know how to appeal to
the charity of the society woman and
are perfectly aware that a visiting card
bearing such a message will put plain
Mrs Want to- be-S wagger into thrill
for days.
Before the affair comes of the recip-
lent of the pasteboard will casually re-
mark to her friends that "she is ire
} mendously rushed, but must find a
minute to look in at the fete and see
the dear Comtesse de B." This little
lady will squander an immense amount
of money on things of no earthly use
and be happy with them as means to
the end of entering this charmed do
main.
must acknowledge being sufficiently
snobbish to welcome a card of this
kind to charity fete held at the Com
Jesse de Pomereu's in the Rue de Chail-
let The old gardens surrounding this
historic maison were a charming sight.
lively under the trees. Everybody
whom one meets at smart functions
was there, gowned in the prettiest cos
tunes.
Floral linen de sole and pompadour
muslin over colored silk transparencies
composed many of the fete gowns. and
a delicate shade of pink resembling the
geranium in color was much in evil
dence. One lovely soft Grape toilet was
in
without any relieving touch. The
crowning triumph of a chapeau was in
one of the quaint, pinched up shapes
the Parisiennes are affecting. This
particular hat of white pedal straw
rested on a veritable bank of shaded
pink roses at the back and was al
together charming. This fashionable
pink in linen shades into an orange
tint and is one of summers latest nu-
ance caprices- Dainty country frocks
are made up of orange pink linen, with
skirt and waist simply box plated.
They depend for their cachet upon a
deep collar and cuffs of embroidery run
through with baby ribbon.
Before leaving the subject of fetes
one of the finest affairs of the season
was given last week by the Count and
Countess Boni de CasteIlane. The
home of the American countess is one
of the show places of Paris. Exterior
" it represents a miniature Trianon,
while the interior is filled with rare OBJ
jects of art The soiree was given in
honor of the Russian ambassador and
Nine de NeliCoff, who were greeted on
their arrival by an orchestra and choir
rendering the Russian national anthem.
The hostess. who stood at the top of
the magnificent staircase to receive her
guests. was exquisitely gowned in a
Louis XVI. dress of white satin damask
trimmed with old lace, the decollete
corsage outlined with diamond orna-
ments and rosettes of mousseline de
sole
A charming frock worn by one of the
guests was of shaded rose tulle deep
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-07-02

dinner entertaining. The exquisite lin
en- damask tablecloth will hide all Sus-
picion of the tables plebeian origin,
and the pretty board will CLEAN with
silver and glass One course will be
served on blue Revolutionary china
worth it's weight in gold to a collector.
The table decorations will be small
silk flags, and broad tricolored ribbons
will run out from the center of the ia
BILE and hang down to the floor. A
large Liberty bell of red. white and blue
flowers will be suspended over the ia
BILE. mound of geraniums shorn of
their leaves make the floral center
piece. At each girls place will be ar
ranged dainty little rustic baskets filled
with blush purple sweet peas. and tiny
Continental military hats made of dark
blue crinkled paper ornamented with a
gold cockade are designed for the mems
dinner favors. The menus are to be i'm
posing scrolls, with seals-small Dec
larations of Independence tied up with
tricolored ribbon. And it is just here
in connection with the menu that the
originality of the affair comes to light.
On these scroll menus. instead of the
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-07-02

want to see a bore?' champagne"
The men at least will try hard to solve
this enigma, so that the corks may
merrily pop and this drink for the gods
make more fun for mortals.
What famous singer spent most of
the winter in America after an abb
sence of some years." Patti. Further
along the list comes the bunker, IF
your opponent on the golf links did
you one more hole what would you
consider yourself?" Possibly, if the
victory is not too recent, you might
own to being beat"
After this vegetable has been masti-
Gated the thrilling question to be an
swered is, What would you do if
pistol were pointed at your head? ?"
Quail, no doubt, if you happen to be of
the fair sex.
What would bread be without p"
Butter.
1.-The unfortunate person who spends
all his allowance is in what?" pickle.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-07-02

| for appearances and is not afraid of
her complexion will put over her hair
an oiled silk cap and cover it with
becoming silk handkerchief or with a
jaunty big bow of wide ribbon.
The athletic girl has not been lost in
| the frills and f1ounces of present fash
ions, and, though she does not assert
herself quite so insistently as of yore,
she is still just as fascinating as ever.
| This preamble brings me round to what
1 want to say about the new golf skirt
1t looks like any well fitting walking
skirt, but its speciality is apparent in
the godets inserted at the base of each
seam and run all round the skirt, ex-
cept up the back width. These godets
give freedom of movement so necessary
TO the golfer. 1t is just quiet looking,
graceful short skirt with no obvious in
tention and will be found the most
comfortable one ever invented for ten
mis- or golf.
Speaking of tennis, which bids fair
to be more played this summer than for
several seasons, my lady has taken it
into her pretty head to dress in a most
unsportsmanlike style for this very
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-07-02

here. One has seen materialized into
stunning frocks most of her ideas, and
it is the occasional toilet that now gives
cause for thought. In other words, the
seriousness of things sartorial has Civ
en- place to the frivolities of accessories.
The fussy cravat, which comes in
this category, is thing of the past in
Paris, and in its place reigns the tiny
tightly tied bow of soft ribbon worn
with a white linen collar. The cheap
assortment of stocks of the fancy and
clerical style displayed at the Louvre
tell only too surely the story of their
passing from fashionable favor.
News from America has reached us
here that the eastern Influences are po-
tent not only in the cut and adornment
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-07-02

you be in if you answer wrong?" And
if you're not pretty quick at this sort
of nonsense you will not write on the
card, THE soup" The next question
is, Where would you go at the ST.
Louis fair to have some fun" Pike
This rare and delicious fish having
been successfully captured and en-
joyed. the attention is drawn to the
third proposition.
what is the only country Russia
has ever whipped?" If history is your
favorite diversion you will know that
it is Turkey, and the butler will have
the pleasure of presenting a piece of
that delicious fowl.
What do we often do when we don't
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-07-02

eddy prove, they are a serious drain on
the dress allowance. The dear ire
sistible things will not stand the least
wear and tear, and their existence is as
brief as butterhy's.
The dog show, which is held this
week on the terrace of the Tuileries, is
an unusually lively spot, and the howl
ing of the CANNES is only deadened by
the sounding of the chausseur's horn
announcing the beginning of the hunt.
These masters of the chase appear pic
turesquely attired, surrounded by a
pack of hounds. The pet dog division
is the center of attraction for the smart
and, while sympathizing
with her own pet in his captivity and
assuring him that he will take a rib
bOns she affects the latest trick of
standing-that of clasping the hands
loosely behind the back. The why
ness" of this new walking and standing
attitude is to call attention to the back
view of the summer toilet which in
present modes is of much Importance.
So if you would be truly Partisan you
must accentuate the arriere aspect by
posing in this fashion.
The dilettante days of the gown are
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-07-02

Paleness of the complexion is often
one of the signs of anaemia, a COM
plant from which young girls very Of
ten suffer nowadays. For these an in
door life is exceedingly undesirable,
and they should be out in the fresh air
as much as possible. A course Of cod
liver oil and iron is beneficial, and the
diet should consist of milk, farinaceous
foods, ETC., and cold or tepid morning
bath is excellent as causing better cir-
ezlat1on to the body.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-07-02

ening into crimson. With the much
fiounced skirt was worn a sash of
crimson silk and deep red roses on the
corsage- Rubies- and pink sapphires
were the jewels affected with this Gre
alton.
Liberty satin draped with gauze and
tulle found it's way into the makeup of
some of the smartest toilets seen at
this reception. Beautiful and becoming
as these transparent fabrics undoubt-