davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Savannah morning news., 1904-12-04
JeWeled Hat Pins
A Winter Vogue

The seasons great vogue for jew
eled ornamentation on evry article
of feminine attire, from the toe of
the dressy slipper to the crown of
the Directoire hat, has brought forth
unusual and innumerable conceits in
hatpins, and has changed that worn-
ans sure weapon of defense from
an unobtrusive necessity to a brilliant
and artistic decoration. Each chapeau
has its own set of hatpins, which are
never removed from their respective
holes. This keeps the hat from being
filled with holes and being knocked
out of shape by forcing the pins into
the stiffening of the frame. Large
individual stones initiating sapphire,
topaz, ruby, emerald and amethyst,
together with the water pearls and
cut crystals, all furnish a charming
ornamentation in the folds of a soft
evening hat or on a severe fur or
feather hat. Lotus flowers, orchids
or callas have a long water pearl for
their CalyX. For walking hats the
athletic girl will find sets of pins
showing the miniature brassies,
cleeks and drivers of the golf bag,
or a tiny ball and bat with the name
of her favorite college in enamel. The
automobile hatpins resembling a huge
safety pin are deliberately bejeweled
and show graceful and grotesque de-
signs in gun metal and gold. These
pins are not only great boon to the
fair motorist, but they make a hand
some and firm fastening for the cha
peau of lace or chiffon.
The old-fashioned high setting used
for holding single stones in rings
gives an elegant appearance to the
large cut stones showing the deep
colors of the garnet and the sapphire.
Glass balls in any color of the rain
bow or crystal balls, cut and plain,
are very effective with the brilliant
headgear so popular this fall.
new composition from Paris
which looks like opaque glass in q
liquid yellow. shading at the edges
to a soft pink or lavender, is offered
in new and beautiful designs. A sprig
of mistletoe shows in the heart of its
translucent leaves a berry of pearl,
fleur-de-lis have tiny rhinestone chips
like dewdrops on their petals, the
marguerite has a rhinestone center,
while the daffodil or jonquil shows a
wee sapphire at the top of its cup.
Heads of Arabs and Turks, with
The Savannah morning news., 1904-12-04

visiting, a slight train is still con-
sidered to give a more dressy appear
ance, and this train the true Partisan
elegante scorns ever to raise Except
across the muddiest sidewalk it sweeps
as a matter of course behind her,
creating look of inherent grace, as If
the train and the lady were one!"
But broad generalities will not by
any means fit the subject of skirts,
for cut and style depend entirely upon
their relation to materials.
For example, all corded and shirred
skirts require pliable texture. such
as crepe de chine eolienne, liberty silk,
wolfe, chiffon velvet, ETC.. while a skirt
OF severe cut, with fur or velvet bands,
may be in cloth as heavy as leather.
The fitting of these last at the ton
is accomplished in various ways, but
such pleats as may appear are always
cut away underneath at the hips. A
sort of wide umbrella shaping dis
tinguishes many a skirt cut, the cores
being afterwards fitted TO the figure
with pleats and tucks, some of which
are confined Immediately to the front
and back. Recently seen in this model
was skirt In oil-red cloth with a
front arrangement of little inverted
pleats forming a fan. This skirt. like
all the other smart models now seen.
hung loose from the lining, which de-
tail in some of the circular founce
models is cut exactly like the outside.
Silk Drops Carefully Fitted.
The silk drops of all skirts are most
carefully fitted about the hips. and the
majority of them require a little cush-
ion pad at the back of more or less
thickness, TO round the figure into har-
monious lines.
AS to the various models in favor,
after the quality of the material is con-
sidered, the shape Of the bodice which
is to accompany II decides the cut OF
the skirt.
With the long redingote coats In
stout materials so much admired for
street wear, the accompanying Upe
has likewise trim and tailored quail
ity. Numerous designs are seen with
pleats let In under a hip yoke portion
cut In the skirt. these panels tanning
out gracefully from the knee down In
The Savannah morning news., 1904-12-04
DeliCacy ReignS
in BOudOir Sets

AS the strenuous trend of the fem
mime mind since the dawn of the new
woman has been symbolized by the
severity and practicability of her sur
roundings, so woman's return to the
gentler sphere of beauty and lowell
ness is presaged by the exquisite dain-
tiness Of her new boudoir fittings.
Not only the furnishings for her
dressing table, but the equipment for
the desk, the table and the k-box.
and the embellishments for the walls
and chairs and couch, are all built of
the softest OF silks and ribbons i'm the
most delicate and bewitching colors
An entire boudoir set shows but one
fundamental shade. relieved by the
blending pastel tints of the Louis en-
broidery or the gold bullion work of
Marie Antoinette. Or a set may be
built entirely OF pompadour ribbon
or Of ribbon In Dresden design with
wee rosebuds embroidered in harmon
izing tones.
For the dressing table are displayed
receptacles in every possible shape
and size needed to hold the number
less small accessories OF a woman's
tollet---a large roll for wells. a smaller
one for different length pins from hat
pin 20 lawn cum fasteners. and a still
smaller roll for needles. boxes in
every conceivable form, diamond
shaped for Jewels heart shaped for
buttons, aeml-circular for linen neck
wear, square for handkerchief, and a
deep obiong for gloves: also nat,
puny cases for these articles Each
and every piece 81 the entire set ia
covered with the same shade ~ dur
able bengallne silk. lined with soft
China SILK IN the same tone and bound
with narrow safin-edged aurah ribbon.
IN similar manner the nat ana cir
The Savannah morning news., 1904-12-04
By MARY DEAN

walking. But the skirt is short, of
course-less than pavement length in
many cases, for the long redingote
precludes the JeaGsibility of graceful
lifting. Agai8 Swever, a skirt in
quite a stoutSsxyfture will have the
slight train admired in Paris, though
lightness will be obtained by the way
a cloth is manipulated. A visiting
gown in plum-blu cloth showed two
straight flounces cut raw-edged, and
placed over one slightly shaped at the
train. To keep the cloth from ravel-
ling a bias of thin silk was stitched
Just above the edge of the flounces
ununderneath. Snuff brown suede was
the trimming used with this costume,
whose upper garment was a skirted
coat of uncommon jauntiness.
A Street Model.
A street model used with many of
the little Elton coats is skirt in three
fiounces. likewise pavement length, for
despite the more graceful tendencies
of trained effects. short skirts rule on
the sidewalk. Often these three
f1ounces are further accentuated by
band trimming put on as a border,
while the hounces themselves are the
shaped affairs, which are applied with
out fullness.
The pointed bodices, so much a fea-
ture of the season, necessitate a most
careful treatment of the upper part of
the skirts which accompany them. If
the figure is slight, the delicate tex
ture of such a skirt is almost without
goring from the hips down; and the
little shaping made at the hips is hid
den by the close tucking or shrring
there employed. This quaint fullness
for such models fall full below the
hips-permits the straight bottom
trimming used so much in Paris and
The Savannah morning news., 1904-12-04

wrist are made from either very heavy
linen handsomely embossed with en-
broidery or braiding, or they are
built from the filmiest of linen lawn,
showing a wide hem and large dots
inwoven or embroidered in black law
ender, blue, green or pink. Wide
bands of Irish point and Irish crochet
lace with large and striking flower de-
signs are extremely stunning and
very expensive. Bands of broderie
anglais or French braiding in fantas-
tic designs are crossed at the front
of the neck and fastened by three
tiny linen buttons and a flve-inch tab
of accordion pleated linen or lawn
falling from the end Of the upper
band
Deep faring cuffs focus in a tri-
angle or square in their middle and
slope gradually or with Jagged edge
to the rounding corners. They show
heavily embossed shamrocks, or open
work embroidery in a lattice work
alternating with roses. These cuffs
often have small tabs of plated linen
to match the stock which is encircled
at it's base by a two-inch ruffie of fine
jabots of pleating falling from the
center of the front. One dainty set
of cuffs shows two-inch band of
French embroidery in em-leaf design,
a two-inch pleating of lawn and lace
finishing the wrist edge, with three
inch pleating for the upper edge.
The neck band is similarly built. but
has the wide pleating turned down.
Valenciennes and lawn are also COM
bined in narrow strips for these col
lars and cuffs. Delicate shades of
satin are formed into rounding collars
and cuffs, and have their edges en-
broidered in a darker shade in a sun
burst design.
Stocks of fagoting and linen in odd
windings, have long triangular
tongues extending nearly to the waist
line. These tongues are also built of
fagoted linen folds and are sometimes
finished with a ruff1ing of Valen-
ciennes.
Bands for the wrist and neck can
be mace very stunning by a design
in white or colors done in the Russian
cross stitch on heavy white canvas.
Basic a piece of scrim on the canvas,
and by the help of a cross-stitch pat
tern book a clever girl can work out
her own design, pulling away the
scrim thread by thread, when the pat
tern is completed. A coronet or a
pair of Mercury wings is particularly
decorative, and initials in English
script, embroidered in white thread,
are unique and unusually effective.
The Savannah morning news., 1904-12-04
The Fit All Important, al

A decided reaction has set in against
the complicated skirts introduced at
the beginning of the season. Fulled
TO discomfort, shirred corded and
bristling with trimmings, these skirts
were the torment of dressmakers and
the despair of home sewers. The
mere sight of one would cause the
head to swim, and when the moment
came to lift it from the mire-behoId
helpless breadths. Topping widths,
despair
A French correspondent writes:
THE present tendency of fashion is
to free itself from all eccentricities,
and skirts especially are carefully con-
sidered. For instance, those over
loaded with gatherings, puffings and
ruchings. reaching more than half way
up the waist, are put aside for those
which are only trimmed around the
bottom. The top part of the jupe is
but slightly gathered to make it fall
nicely, and at the bottom many a new
skirt suggests the clinging models Of
last year. Leaden weights are put in
the edge of these 10 keep them down,
and to prevent the clinging about the
feet, thick cord or crinolette is sewn
in the bottom of the foundation skirt
The latter however, is so light and
elastic as scarcely to be noticed, but it
is only used in the lining, and the thin
upper material must fall loosely over
ii.
Skirts Clear the Ground.
with reference to the length of
skirts, those for everyday wear and
walking purposes are made to clear
the ground. But for promenading and
The Savannah morning news., 1904-12-04

their rugged features. are carved in
bold relief from a nugget OF gold. In
like manner all sorts OF animals heads
the elephant, the bulldog or the
lion--form striking knobs for the very
essential hatpin. Balls OF gun metal
are studded with amethyst or rhine
stone chips or the ball is surrounded
by a narrow gun metal band set off
by sparkling bits OF gems. The Nui-
can stone. OF a turquoise blue I'm rough
finish, with cloudings OF delicate pink
and sprinkles OF green. IL cut In mar
quise shape and encircled by a snake
OF gold with upright head
The long automobile pin shows
three-two small and one lnrge-of
these Vulcan stones, or the same
number OF highly polished rubies. In
fact, these pins can be obtained with
stones 60 harmonize with any Of the
many c0iored yeilings. Spreading
Egyptian wings, gold niiRree studded
with tiny jewels. serpenta with their
bodies inteuwinee ana holdlng Jewels
lu their mouths, serve az Ornamental.
ton for taere huge pins.
The Savannah morning news., 1904-12-04

and theater wear, great latitude is all
lowed in the matter of fabrics. The
woman who must count her expendi-
lures carefully may wear a beautiful
and inexpensive evening frock evolved
from skirt in one of the supple and
delicately tinted broadcloths of the
hour, combined with a blouse of the
same shade but in a more delicate
fabric, such as chiffon crepe de chine
or tinted lace. The blouse of con-
trasting color, however, is not consid-
cred good.
A Gamut of Materials.
From this economical but effective
combination the gamut is run through
supple tsffetas, failles, old-fashioned
grosgrains, silky poplins, peau de sol,
heavy, old-fashioned satins, brocades
and velvets. The brocades and old
fashioned silks furnish extremely
picturesque costumes, and are partic-
The Savannah morning news., 1904-12-04
BY KATHERINE ANDERSON.

uIarly suited to the development OF
Louis gowns with chic coats. AL
ternate stripings of velvet and silk are
also in vogue.
Notable for the restaurant or hotel
dinner and the theater are some strik-
ing effects evolved from supple satins.
A gown of white satin trimmed entire
ly with shirrings and tucks of the
same fabric had a broad tabot effect
in rose point lace. Over this was
worn a short basque coat with pepluln
made from silky white astrachan
cloth. The reveres were of satin
heavily embroidered in gold, and the
belt matched the reveres, with an
enormous gold clasp set in pearls
These all-white frocks are combined
with wondrously striking coat COL
lars, including the various shades of
brown, dahliA and plum.
For Occasions of Ceremony.
For occasions of ceremony there
is no more effective frock than that
which exploits the robe skirt, an or
nately trimmed bodice and a high
girdle which gives the small waist ef-
feet. These robe skirts are all of the
richest fabrics over a petticoat of con-
trasting weight and color. Sometimes
a petticoat shows, from waist line to
hem in the front a priceless lace span
gled net or plain satin, heavy with
embroidery.
Spangled gowns have by no means
lost their vogue, but the fact that
cheap limitations have been forced up
on the market has rather hurt the
handmade article. The newest i'm
portations in spangled robes show
multitudes of flounces plain and
godet. The blouse pattern for these
imported frocks requires no trimming
save an effective girdle, and the en-
tire frock gives the best result when
made over silk foundation we'll yelled
with chiffon
The Savannah morning news., 1904-12-04
Use and Abuse of
a Sewing Machine

Not a woman in a thousand knows
that the most faithful Of all house
hold appliances, the sewing machine,
is really a sensitive IL inanimate crea-
ture. Were the fact better known,
the average sewing machine would
give better returns in the family cir
Gle. A man who has handled ma
chimes for years said recently to a
woman who was buying a high-priced
machine which she had learned to use
under his guidance:
Now, madam. don't let any one else
sew on this machine. 1t is adjusted to
your weight"
The woman looked at him in amaze
ment. why, I thought any one could
run machine who understood its
mechanism"
The man shook his head. Machines
seem almost human TO me. and no
two women handle a machine just
alike. That machine responds TO your
every touch and gives you the very
best results. You weigh about 100
pounds. Your servant weighs 175. Let
her use the machine a few times,
throwing her weight on the treadlo,
and she'll throw the whole thing out
OF gear just BY the difference IN her
weight When you tried 10 use II again
you would find that something was
wrong and n you were like most WON
en-, YOU would send word 10 me that
Ia cheated YOU on the machine as II
was out o.; order already. n were
the mother Of several daughters
would teach one Of them 10 handle the
machine properly and not allow any
body else 10 touch a."
The uD-to-dafo machine 10 vastly
different from the ono our Rrandnlofh-
tconunusd on page Twenty-ihrss.l
The Savannah morning news., 1904-12-04
Quaint RevivaIs Mark the Evening Modes
Fabrics Unused Generations Are Reappeang Gowns
Wear-French FaHe, Gosgran and Heavy Satin

An observing man land In this day
and age men are wonderfully observ-
ing in the matter of women's clothes)
recently remarked that the average
evening functions of the most con-
ventional pattern can hardly be dis
tinguished from the costume ball of
a year or so back. This is quite gen.
orally due to the revival of the period
gown. Women who have sufficient
individuality and unfortunately a
number who have no individuality
whatever-are DOMINIC evening frocks
copied directly from old paintings and
century agone fashion plates.
At one dinner party recently were
observed frocks which revived mem
cries Of the Louis and Directoire
periods in France, and the 1860 frocks
in plain, unpretentious America, to say
nothing of some exceedingly simple
and unconventional gowns from pres
ent-day Paris, which threatens to dis
miss the period fashions now that it
has reaped comfortable financial re-
turn from their temporary vogue.
An Exacting Season.
1t is at once the most exacting and
yet the most lax sartorial season that
the feminine world has enjoyed for
generations. A woman may load her
self down with fiounce upon founce,
shirrings on lace and lace on shirrings
and not be considered overdressed.
Or she may wear a chiffon or crepe
de chine frock almost severe in it's
simplicity and be told that she pre-
sents a restful contrast to the birds
of Paradise around her.
For evening frocks, either for cere-
monious functions or for restaurant
The Savannah morning news., 1904-12-04

turesque cape-like shape with hood to
match. Old-fashioned shawls Of the
most elegant weaves are being draped
in these same models.
All the lace coats are mounted upon
chiffon foundations, the lining being
arranged in multitudes of shirrings
and pleatings. Accordion pleating
still remains the prime favorite for
fluffy Innings. The accordion pleatings
are also employed for trimming,
sometimes alone and sometimes with
chenille fringe or lattice work OF
chiffon flowers above them.
The all-white coat, which was CIV
en- the preference last season is seen
this year, but not so generally. Pale
colors or combinations Of white lace
over delicate Innings are more popu-
lar. These lace coats are frequently
encrusted with embroidery in gold or
delicate dainty colors, and are finish
ed with clasps of great value.
The Savannah morning news., 1904-12-04
\ Popular Combination.

Another combination which is inn
mensely popular with women who like
delicate colors which will yet give a
somewhat bizarre effect, is the union
of lace or chiffon with pompadour
ribbon. This opens a fascinating field
for the girl who makes frocks at home
and who has a good eye for color, and
who recognizes bargain in ribbon
when she sees it. The ribbon is EN-
ployed as square insets or bands.
Artificial flowers in chiffon or the
most delicate of silken or tinted vel
vet petals are much used for trim
ming elaborate evening gowns. A
shows a pale pink chiffon, the skirt
gathered in full at the waist line and
adorned with graduated insets of
lace, dotted at regular intervals with
tiny punches of pink rosebuds picked
out with crystal dewdrops. The cor
Alexandria gazette. [volume] (Alexandria, D.C.) 1834-1974, 1904-02-01
Virginia News.

-
Mr.. Lee Peasants son of Z. l.. Pleas
ants, of Leesburg, died on Friday after
a short illness from pneumonia.
Mrs. Sarah Adams, widow of Washing
ton.Adams, died at her home at Gains
boro, Frederick county on Saturday.
George A. Minor, formerly of the
piano firm of Hume & Minor, was found
dead in bed on Saturday at his home
near Richmond.
Mrs. Caroline Hansucker, widow OF
Philip Hansucker, of Winchester, died
on Saturday near Berryville, aged seven
ty years. She was q daughter of the late
Henry T. Shearer. of Milwood.
Mrs. Margaret FiddIers, said to be the
oldest woman in Clarke county, died
on Saturday near Brucetown, aged nine
ty-six years. She was the widow Of Ezra
Fiddler, and leaves twelve children.
Vernon Henderson, a young boy, who
escaped from the State Reformatory at
Laurel Thursday night, was found frozen
to death on Saturday morning on the line
of the Richmond, Fredericksburg, and
Potomac Railroad, near Taylorsville.
Sportsmen must now lay aside guns,
game bags, hunting toys and other par
aphernalia. The season ended with the
stroke of midnight, when all classes OF
game can come forth with impunity from
theii hiding places and tantalize gnnners.
At Berryyille on Saturday the board
of comfy supervisors awarded the con-
tract for the erection of two bridges, one
at Berrys Ferry and the other at Castle
mans Ferry, across the Shenandoah
river, to the Nelson & Buchanan Com
pany, of Chambersburg, Pa. Their bid
was $40, 900 for the two bridge.
At Lovingston on Saturday Frank
Bradley, colored, was hanged for the
murder of w. P. Harris, of Iron Gate,
on a freight train as it is neared War
minister, Or September 10. He admit
ted his guilt and stated that whisky and
bad company had brought him to this
end, and before this be had served sem
fences in Jail at Richmond and Fincastle.
Judge Mcdowell, of the United States
District Court of Virginia, has filed his
opinion, which is adverse to the railroads
in the suit of the Interstate Commerce
Commission against the Chesapeake ana
Ohio and the New York, New Haven
and Hartford Railroad Companies for
failure to observe its tariff rates. The dis
cussion restraints the Chesapeake and
Ohio railway from allowing coal rebates.
Alexandria gazette. [volume] (Alexandria, D.C.) 1834-1974, 1904-02-01
TOday's Telegraphic News


London, Feb. 1.-The Birmingham
Post hears on the highest authority that
French Foreign Minister Delcasse has
sent to Count Lamsdorfi, the Russian
Foreign Minister, a long note reviewing
with particular reference to the TAR
East. Franco Russian relations since
1900. Special stress is laid upon the
fact that after publication ofthe Anglo
japanese agreement, in 1902, France
and Russia joinedin %approvingin general
terms that instrument, so far as 1t re-
ferred to the MAINTENANCE of a status
quo in China, and Korea. But in the
interval the situation has altered, and 1t
is o necessary for France to consider
what further steps she will have to take
in the event of hostilities. These steps,
says the Post, the note proceeds to dis
cuss, the result Of the discussion max
ing it obvious that France will not COM
NIT herself TO any measures, as the ad-
yancing of Russian interests at this time
might be unduly adventurous from a
French point of view.
Alexandria gazette. [volume] (Alexandria, D.C.) 1834-1974, 1904-02-01
OPENING AND CLOSING OF MAILS

Northern mails, week days, close at 7 80
9 80 and IL 90 a. m, and Is, 240, 6 40, s 2;
and 10 45 p. m. Open at 90 a. m., 200 m
and 4 80 D. m. On Sundays Northern mail;
close at 9 80 a. m, 80 p. m. and 7 20 p. m.
Southern mails via Charlottesville close al
80 and 10 40 a. M, and 2 80, 9 80 and 10 AZ
p. m. Open at s 90 a. m. and 230and $50 p. m.
Southern mails, via Richmond, close al
10 80 a. NJ, and 800, $50 and l045 p. m.
Open ut 8 a. NJ. and / and 4 p. H.
Manas sas Division mails close at Z 20 a. m.
and 3 A D. m. Open at ~ com.
Alexandria and Round Hill mails close at
7 80 a. II. and 4 p. m. Open at 100 a. III. and
8 80 p. m.
Chesapeake and Ohio mails close at 2 As p.
m. and 10 40 p. m. open at SMs q. m. and
4 80 p. m.
Washington mails close at 80, $50 and
IL 10 a. M, and Is, 24O, $40, S23 and 1915
p. m. Open at 100 a. m, 1900 m. and 100 P.
N !. and 100 p. m.
Office Hours-Open at 90 a. m. Close at
500 p. M.
Sunday HOurs-Open at 200 m. Close
at 1000 q. m.
Carriers Schedule Collection made on in
side routes-6 80 and 1000 a. m. and 800 and
8 30 p. m. Full rOute-63 80 a. No.. and 8 30 p.
m. Sunday collection 800 D. M. Carriers
window open Sunday 900 a. m. and close
1000 a. m.
Deliveries made 90 a. m, 1 p. m. and AIS
p. m.
All mail should be in the Office ten minutes
before our indicated time for closing.