The sun., 1904-06-26

When the New York girl passes you on
Fifth avenue this week you fancy that
tho wind has blown to you straight over
an old-fashioned June garden just tne
faintest Whit from the garden, 30 deilcate
and eyanescent that a minute after you
imagine it was fancy or memory tnat hao
suddenly brought you visions OF clover
meadows and clumps of violets by an OLD
porch and narcissus blooms that come up
IN scattered punches through neglected
grass plot
But all these pretty throughts were not
inst fancy. 1t is fact that perfume ls In
fashion again, that the New York girl mas
oiven IN the whim that held that scents
were vulgar, and that there is just now
Graz, for sachets, for perfumed toilet
powders, for scented baths, for lingerie
perfumari,s, and for d,licato odors in closets
and chironiers and linen chests.
The days Of soap that smelled ike laying
nm asphalt pavement, OF toilet waters that
supg,sted hospital accident ward, OF
hair tonics that ought to have been used
with enforced quarantine are happily over
II Ia no longer good form to scott at sweet
smels. any more than you would spurn
flowers for being common or color for not
being supplied by limited corporation.
And, besides, with fashionable sachet
powder at $50 pound and Cordova ieatner
sachet Mt 81 a square inch, there is no danger
of the New York girls perfume fad becom-
ing too swiftly popular And only the
most delicate, most indistinguishaole doors
are smart
Flamboyant havors soaking handker-
chief. blouse, stock or hair are ultra-ordl-
nary. Vividness OF odor is like cruds
primary color; it stands for lack OF subtlety'
lack of cultivated instinct.
The New York girl would no more thinK
of tipping bottle of cologne upon ner
handkerchief than she would OF gong
out with cold cream on her mouth. fer-
fume, cream, toilet water, sachet ana path
tablets are all an integral part OF her inyster-
iols process Of good grooming. she uses
her perfume as she uses color or material
in clothes to express her personality ana
that with reserve and coquetry
The most fashionable perfumes are all
1oult to describe. They are made up OF a
mixture of odors. Different 1avors are COM
bined until a rare and unusual blend is OBJ
tained. impossible to initiate and with
dozen suggestions Of varying fragrano 9
like complex and exquisite temperament.
II II the whim Of the New York girl to
blend her own perfume. Thus she escapes
any possibility of imitation a nd can be
certain of the same expression OF perfume
feeling in all her garments, her room, her
bath.
The exact proportions OF various odors
used are the secret Of her dealer, a Broadway
,xpert, to whom making perfumes Ia fine
Art. "A Il used to be in the old French con-
vents.
hut the flowers that blend into the ex-
-auigite exhalation which she has copy
rightsd are all those of an old fashioned
aowerbed, Glove pinks, sweet alyssum.
heliotrope, lemon yerbena. and day lilies,
and she calls the mixture June Garden,
and she Is right, as you will know IL you
pass on Fifth avenue.
II you have not the originality or the
time or the temperament to express your
self IN an Individual perfume. there are
F.. exquisite new blends already on the market
that are too delicate to be overliked and
too expensive to be overused.
There is a Whit from dozen hothouse
blossoms in one new perfume, and the beauty
who decides upon this perfume novelty
viii have her soap, her sachet her bath
powders, her face powder, her toilet water
! I'll to match.
She will no more change her perfume
scheme In season than she would her color
scheme. May leopard change his spots
or beauty her perfume9 Not If the opin-
ion Of society Ia considered.
And frequently perfume and color are
selected with view to expressive har-