Evening star., 1904-04-30

tucks, except the under arm pieces, and
the front has design formed by bands of
the braid, which also outlines the arm S
eye and the collar. The sleeves are tucked
from arms eye to elbow, and from elbow
to a narrow cuff at the wrist they fall in
a bishop puff. A pointed belt completes
the gown.
An ecru messaline combined with novelty
silk braid. Stimulating fagoting, is another
effective design.
The skirt fits snugly and plainly at the
waist line. and then three inches lower is
inset a circular yoke, formed of the nov
city braid set between double shirrlngs OF
the material From this yoke the skirt
runs plain and simple in the regulation
seven cores to a deep fiounce, which comes
almost to the knees and which is the most
ornate feature of the costume
Half Moons.
The hounce follows exactly the circular
lines of the yoke above 1t, forming immense
half moons or semi-circles. pointing down.
ward This is built of the shirred MESA
line. as described above in the yoke. with
the inset of novelty braid. In the dip or
center of each semi-circle is a square of the
novelty braid about three inches in diam
eter, and from the lower edge of the shir-
rings the fiounce falls full and free to the
foot
The blouse has a deep shirred yoke at
and with a square of the braid inset in
the center. This yoke is outlined with a
band Of the braid which follows the bust
line straight over the upper part of the
sleeve. so that the arms eye line is en-
tirely lost Two lines of shirring run be-
low the braid from which point the blouse,
inset with three blocks of braid is gather
ed into a pointed belt of the braid, over
silk. The sleeve has a deep cuff of the
braid and over this falls a puff, formed Of
shirred silk, inset with braid.
1t will be noted that all these designs
in shirring call for circular pointed cf-
fects. In no instance does the shirring
run straight around the body. The home
dressmaker should bear this fact in mind
as one of the saving graces-one of the
best remedies for "bunchiness'' Still an
other warning is against the combina ton
of shirring and ruchings. Insets of lace
should go with the shirring.
Plenty Lace Used.
Insets of lace and quantities of insef-
tion are employed with such fabrics as
batiste and organdy; and here. too, the
pointed or curved designs are employed
A dainty organdy showing pale pink rose
pinheads has Valenciennes insertion run
ming in four rows around the skirt to out
line the f1ounce, and here graceful, wave
like curves are used, coming almost to
point in the front, and rising in sweeping
curves upward on the back of the skirt.
The same wave-like design is employed in
the insertion of the blouse and the sleeves,
while a curved yoke and collar of solid in
sertion is Joined by shirrings to a shirred
upper sleeve, giving the long shoulder ef-
feet.
An ecru voile, figured in brown crescents,
combines shirring and tuckng. The skirt
has slightly shirred yoke, and falls like
an oversl<irt over a shaped ffounce of the
material The bottom of the snula ted
overskirt is cut in tabs, between which are
elaborate insets of heavy ecru lace.
The blouse is a combination of eton and
bolero, tucked from the shoulders in groups
of three and cut out In tabs to match the
skirt. These tabs fall over a lingerie ruffie
of point d'esprit and there is a square col
lar of the lace
The sleeves are cut in tabs at the elbow
to fall over a half sleeve of point desprit
The crush girdle is of soft brown silk to
match the crescent in the fabric.