Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1904-11-30
NEW YORK FASHION LETTER.

out that voluminous fare in it's proper
way has been too much for the petit
coats, until kinds have been evolved
especially for the work.
The circular founce has proven most
satisfactory--the more circular it is
the better. And the deeper it is the
better, too, until, in some of the pref
tiest, it seems as though the petticoat
were cut in half--the upper part (to
the knees) plain and close fitting, and
the other half all frills and flare. The
usual way of getting at the necessary
flare is to make the hounce of a success
sion of tiny circular ruffles, with the
top one shaped to fit the skirt, and each
starting where the last leaves off until
the last one is several times the width
Of the first. Then the founce falls in
ripples that holds the skirt out well.
But the shirred ruffles that have
found their way on so many dresses
are echoed in the petticoats, too. A
circular founce Gone that reaches to
the knees) is made up Of two or three
ruffles-circular, too but full, and
shirred on with headings to each other
and to the foundation. And some are
strapped, which gives little "body"
to the ruffle, and some trimmed with
little pink ruchings put in where the
ruffies join.
Sometimes the ruffles are cut in deep
points, but that Is not an overly salts
factory way of having them made, for
it's the very edge of the skirt that
needs the fullness most Of all, and the
points take away from it little. But
a pretty way to use the points is to
have the top of the 1ounce pointed, or
to trim above the hounce with pointed
rows of narrow velvet ribbon.
For the street gown, which is to be
and show a jacket of some
smartness, the shops offer many pat
terms and widths of braid, which are
much employed by good dressmakers.
These are frequently put on to outline
the velvet or cloth trimmings, and it |
seems quite the fad to use several |
Draids in different designs on one gown.
Another inexpensive trimming |
some of the braids are by no means
lear-is a taffeta braiding made and
employed by dressmakers in colors to
contrast with the gown texture. This
odd yet simple garniture, embellished
with rosettes of the same, and in dull
green, is shown on a gown of yellow
sh brown cloth. Black mirror velvet /
another jacket gown in mes
'enger blue, and third one in gray
displays a vest of green kid barred and
aced with black velvet ribbon. These
hree costumes and another in old
French green, whose beetle back jack
IT is of quite unusual broadcloth, are
al made of American broadcloth at
$3.50 yard.
Numberless fancy woods and velvet
materials are seen as cheap and cheap !;
,r, and on women of taste and good fig
ire some odd frocks evolved from these
materials are highly effective.
A striped velveteen in gray and black
ihapes gown in a plain skirt and
acket model. The jacket is made in
blouse fashion, with long, double skirts
md full puffed sleeves. The stock is
If plain gray, braided with black, and
he collar and cuffs of black velvet.
A second costume showing a sort of
'iolet and black zibeline is made mag
iifcent with bands of violent mirror
'elvet The tight fitting coat of this,
which has a good deal of the look of
he '7Os skirt to the knees. A stiff and
ape shaped trimming of velvet bands
rnaments the shoulders of the body
art, which closes with square buckle
made of the velvet.
Many coarse laces which are effect
We in pattern but cheap in price, form
I
leeve falls and jabots for these smart
rocks. And, of course, whenever a
ieh button or handsome belt buckle
an be afforded it is brought into serv- /
'e. A simple button which gives good
esults is in shape of a wooden mold
overed with velvet. These, in large
ICES, are seen on number of the
vening coats of direetoire character,
nd often the coats themselves are
lade of coarse hairy cloth which is
'ft unlined. This cloth is not dear
a yard and up-but the rose tints
nd dim blues and greens of the dyes
re very charming.
Furry details for such gowns afford
uch license for fancy and knaek of
nfers, for a number of the fur sets
re- milliner made or fashioned at