Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-09-17
FALL TAILOR MODES
When in Doubt Buy aSeverely
Simple Suit.
MANNISH STYLESLIKED
GREAT POPULARITY FOR GUN
METAL MIXTURES.
Skirts for Tall Women Made in
Three Tiers Other
Good Ideas.

Written for The Evening Star by Katherine An
derson.
When in doubt buy tailored suit. The
fashions in "dressy" frocks may change
before the first frost sets In. A style which
the modistes confidently expected to make
pronounced hit may fall fat A "dressy"
frock which is good In September may be
very. very bad when the Christmas SHOWS
fall. But the tailored fashions, settled
while yet the summer girl was taking her
first dip in the salt water. are sure to last
Men tailors determined the lines on which
the genuine tailor-made dress should be
built, and somehow the feminine mind
bows before the masculine edict.
Last year only few women went in for
the genuine tailored suit, and there was a
pronounced falling back into the much
trimmed street dress. There was a revival
of the 1880 and 1850 modes. This year the
pendulum Of fashion swings back to Sc
verify Of materials and lines for street
wear Mannish fabrics are in great de-
mand and the Louis coats give opportunity
for the insertion of vests built from the
same materials as mems waistcoats. But
the greatest relief TO the woman who likes
to be simply dressed on the street Is the
return Of the coat sleeve. Even where
pouched or bloused sleeve Is used the
bouffant effect is very slight, while the
smartest suit of all follows, In it's sleeves,
at least. the lines of mems coats. The
long-ftting coat. either with or without
the slot seams, is one OF the seasons nov
elites. The vest, plain or trimmed, is one
Of the seasons most striking effects.
Inch OFF Ground.
Skirts, quite generally, are laid in pleats
and escape the ground by at least an inch.
Buttons are much used for trimming; the
revers are of plain silk or edged with a
small novelty braid. Red cloth or leather
or channels vests will be seen among the
many tailored suits. A Louis XVI sugges-
ton Is in a distinctly mannish cloth--a hard
finish mixed tweed. The skirt Is fashioned
In fifteen cores, each with pleat stitched
down over the hips and pressed In the Sc
we're tailored style down to the velveteen-
bound hem. The coat has fitted hip seams
and reaches to the knees. The vest, which
comes only to the waist line, Is of vesting
cloth, tonng perfectly into the coloring of
the suit. The collar and revers are of vel
vet, with novelty braid showing just a
gun-metal buttons, which are also used on
the sleeves, the cuff being finished with
simulated buttonholes. on which the but
tons are sewed,
Gun-Inetal mixtures are decidedly popular
this season, and when trimmed with black
satin or SILK revers are masculine enough
to suit the most exaeting bachelor girl.
From this material Is evolved a pleated
skirt IN nue cores ana long coat without
the hip seams. Revers of black corded silk
are set off by a fancy black mohair braid.
The coat Is snugly fitted at the back and
sides, but only semi-dtting In the double
breasted front. showing but a single dart.
1t Is fastened with small silver buttons.
Her Own Troubles.
Tho short girl who likes to be called petite
has her own troubles In the matter of tall
ored gowns. which are usually built for her
taller sisters only. She win welcome a
style that will make every inch OF her own
height count and yet be In fashion. This
design shows smooth mixture with an
EXTREMELY oiose-nttin0 coat that comes Just
to the curve Of the hips. Pleats, running
from shoulder to waist line, both back and
'front.', edd to her apparent height. All the
lines p1 this model. IN fact, are Intended to
indvo& that eftect. The Fevers are edged
with Q silk Persian trimming. the straight-