The Jersey City news., 1904-12-20

plenty of it. The goods are cheap enough,
counted by the yard; but it takes a great
deal TO make a dress. Il am putting
twenty-five yards of satin into my new
gowns" said a dressmaker ''and fully as
many yards of taffeta. velvet and bro
eade. Il, is the shirred skirts that take
so much material" th
Some of new skirts are immense
around the foot. and the handsonnT the
goods the wider one makes the Skirt.
~I made black velvet gswn with a
box-plaited skirt that was simply yelunl-
inous around the foot; and then ! made
three-quarter COAT. cut with long tails
and sleeves so full at the top that they
might have passed for pillowcases. 1t
isn't the cloth that is expensive. but il IS
the amount of it you use.'
A dress made in London the other day
for fashionab Bile member of American
society was built of plum bloom cloth. 1t
was face cloth and the plum bloom was
ripe, partly crimson and partly purple,
with blue lights in it. One might almost
accuse it of being ehangeable cloth, so
beautifully were the tones blended in the
weave to send out different lights.
The suit was made with full skirt
and full blouse. The blouse hung open
in front. to show a handsome shirtwaist,
one of those gorgeous plaid silk waists
which are red and blue, crimson and
black, all exquisitely mixed
The feature of the gown. however, was
the braiding which was put upon it. The
braid. which was dull heavy black silk
braid. shown beautifully against the gloss
of the plum-colored dress. 1t was put
ON in intricate designs. and the expense
vas more in the complicated handiwork
upon it than in the braid itself.
Nice braid is never cheap. But it is
after all the work you put on it that
makes it costly. You must weave and
interweaye and you must braid and braid
and You mnst continue to braid until YOU
have carried out your design. which is
often SO elaborate as TO be worthy the
pencil of an artist
a braided pattern upon the hem of q
handsome broadcloth skirt showed de-
sign in heraldry carried all the way
around the foot of the skirt 1t was
about foot deep and the same design.
distinguished the coat. 1t was even seen
upon the sleeves and on the lapels. II
was done in black and red and gold and
was as elaborate and elegant n trimming
as one could find anywhere this season.
The most elaborate braiding is seen
and there is tendency to make the de
signs classic and striking rather than
small and irregular. The tiny and in
tricate little swirls are not used as much
as the great Greek key designs and the
wonderful figures which indicate study
of the architecture and art of other days
and other lands. A Persian design
showed Il Persian deity surrounded by
tiny loops of braid Of various colors.
While the street dresses are The most
important gowns of the moment. for all
the world is ont walking now. nevertlle-
less a great deal Of attention is given TO
street coats These are long and hand
some and. if well made they are very
good indeed for trotting purposes.
But ii must he admitted that the street
coat has become an elaborate garment.
and as such il has quite outgrown lis
pIainness and. in a measure. its useful
ness also. Ii is made Of broadcIoth these
days and in color it is cream or tan, oys-
Ter gray or burnt yellow. champaign or
some other one al the faint and lovely
tints Of Tie season. The paler and more
frail the color the better, and the street
c.sat. i!ss;e~,9 being useful. starts off
hana:capee fact that it is light
AMI ssfi II iiaf 4 viii show the
diil always.
One 81 The most charming Of three
quarter coats was chi straight. almost as
straight as an automobile coat Its ma
#terial was hroadcloth and It's color a
deep cream.
Tie front of the coat was cilt inI big
sealIops ana was double breasted. Il
bnstoncd With big black velvey buttons
over button molds. There vas j big
pointed collar and from this collar there
hung black velvet straps. upon he end Of
which there was q risfnss lasslsl button &c
glistening quality. usne 'hassg al M 8
saI.asis.s i q sain 5Dapeia. stTiiipnes 3lie
"a M 5a 1iei cl7assdf black
sveIvppoflprn ~ K wi,le1eollar and uposl The
wrist Gifts. for l.easeevess were hro5iglt #
in ia light vide emf e ss %
While these long street coats arc hand
some tltcss are more. really. for calling
ana such nice wear. For driving they
are elarnaing ana they are very nice for
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