The San Francisco call., 1904-04-17

the May will dress in butter color
this season, for the rage for butter
shades grows. Old butter color
and butter in all tones, is found in
every fabric. and the bright, cheerful
tone will govern many a summer cos
tune
The queen Of the May will wear a
gown trimmed with lace, for 1t is GER
tainly to be lacy spring, and the lace
will be any shade, from the bright rich
yellow which one associates with but
ter 10 the deeper tone, which is called
burnt straw This is a sunburnt tone,
deep and rich, with a great deal of red
in it,
Perhaps the queen of the May will
select a champagne tone, for cham
pagne is 10 be very fashionable this
season. And, in that case, the lace viii
be dyed to match. The dyed laces are
10 quite rule the costumes Of the spring.
A gown in champagne colored batiste,
with linen threads in it, and with a
slender lacy line running through II,
would be very pretty. The lace must
be dyed to match the batiste and the
whole gown must be lined with the
same shade.
Gowns all Of tone are rather COM
ing in this year. There are ever so
many blue dresses that are blue from
beginning to end. Dress material, lace,
ribbons. belt and stock are all blue
And there are countless tan dresses
with no other coloring than the tan.
Tan linen. tan batiste, tan lawn, tan
crepe or tan gowns Of any kind are
trimmed with lace Of a slightly deeper
tone, and finished up with tan ribbons,
TO be removed and freshened once or
twice a year.
The queen Of the May will undoubted-
ly wear a gown very much influenced
by the prevailing styles Its skirt will
be full, for all summer gowns are made
that way, and it's front will be plenti-
fully trimmed. II the skirt be not one
of the exaggerated full skirts then it
will at least be a long skirt. one Of
those great sweep skirts, and il will be
plentifully and gOrgeously trimmed
around the foot.
How 10 Trim Your Skirt.
II seems as though the day had quite
gone by when a skirt could be cut out.
made up, stitched and worn without
extra thought and extra work. The
skirts Of to-day are very much trim
med and there are few skirts that are
worn without any trimming at all.
The most popular skirt trimming is
probably the rope shirring. This is
difficult for an amateur to manage, but
il can be done with patience and plenty
Of material. The skirt is cut very
wide and is fastened to the belt before
the shirrings are put in, so the dress
makers advise, and the great heavy
rope shirrings are then let into the
skirt. This requires the utmost care
not TO destroy the lines Of the gown.
The rope shirrings are put in on the
group order, in groups OF three or four,
and are set around the skirt, horizon
tally. making a very nice trimming.
OF course the sleeves must be shirred
10 match the skirt and the waist must
be shirred in the same manner. This.
with the addition OF little lace, really
completes the scheme OF the gown.
The fancy for trimmings that run
around the skirt is growing. The panel
idea is too pretty TO be lost entirely,
but IL is a fact that the great majority
OF gowns have trimmings that run
around the skirt. Frequently the hori-
zOntal trimming is combined with the
panel idea and with the very prettiest-
results.
II you are looking for new ways to
make your summer gowns don't neglect
the style which calls for a straight
front breadth. This is made rather
full. for the scanty front is now out
of date. Then, at each side OF the
front breadth the fiounces begin. Three
deep fiounces go all the way around the
skirt, with the exception OF the panel
esQue front breadth. And the skirt,
which is very long and very full, lies
in great trailing breadths upon the
floor.
Ideas for Your New Gown.
There is no need OF trying to make
up your summer wardrobe all on the
short skirted order. True. there will
be trotting skirts and each woman will
have from one to three or four Of these,
according TO her trotting propensities.
But they viii be the useful skirts-the
skirts for walking, the skirts for out
OF doors and the skirts for shopping.