The morning Astorian. [volume] (Astoria, Oregon) 1899-1930, 1904-08-12

this fact is impressed on one as he goe:
from city to city, where he sees every
family. however poor, occupying its
own house and enjoying an existence
apart from every other households
state OF things wholly unknown to tbs
overcrowded centers In the United
States and Europe.
Most strangers have the impression
that they scarcely have breathing
are so crowded together In their cities
that they scarcely have braething
room. That this is a mistake Is dis
covered on reaching Tokyo, which
numbers half million less inhabitants
than does New York. yet extends over
a hundred square miles. one may start
out In a kuruma in the early morning
and ride the greater part OF the day
through the residence portion OF the
capital OF Japan, looking out upon the
one-story wooden buildings. all Of a
monotonous dun color, with their little
gardens in 'front.' without ,steeple's
pointed height intervening between
earth and sky to break the countless
gray roofs that stretch away on both
sides farther than the eye can scan.
Riding in a kuruma.
The streets are not wide, II is true
and you jog along feeling trifie ridie-
ulous in your covered guruma, which
reminds you OF your baby carriage
days, as your sweating coolie pants
with shaft grasped In each hand, and
goes forward with the pace of good
horse. Sometimes second coolie
pushes the kuruma from behind. II you
happen to be in great hurry TO reach
your destination, in which case you
pay him at the rate OF 10 cents an
hour or three cents mile, ! have
seen three persons crowded into a
kuruma, and all urging the overbur-
dened puller into trot with oft-re-
peated cries of "Hayaku. Hayakul"
1t is much cheaper to hire a coolie
than to feed horse; so horses are a
rare sight. Besides, the coolies dart in
and out of the narrow streets, scrap
ing the wheels of your kuruma against
those of another hurrying in an OPP
posite direction, without the least dam
ger of upsetting you as you recline
comfortably on the seat In half doze.
The kuruma puller often speaks
many English words and makes this
Accomplishment known TO every Eng
lish speaking person as soon as he gets
down from his train on the station
platform. II Is very welcome sound.
and the nearest puller with his mouth
wide open shouting in English. Come
this way. sir. I'll take you to your
hotel-this way. madam, for your ho-
tel" usually claims the traveller as his
own. He is as shrewd as any cabby
who has driven UP and down Fifth
avenue for the last 10 years, and will
overcharge you just the same. II you
are green enough to permit it--and
it's 10 to one that you are.
You must have a number OF rides
about the city. and must be victimized
quite as often as you have been
cheated in Paris. You soon find. If
you walk little distance, that you are
in danger of being overcome by the
sun; so you decide to screen yourself
from its fierceness under one of the
many kurumas that have been shad-
owing you. 1t is nonsense to risk
yourself in that blaze Of light that
pours down upon your. head with suffi-
cient force to bake 1t.
Formerly the coolies were allowed by
the custom Of the country to wear no
clothing, and thus they escaped In some
measure the effects Of the depressing
heat as they drew their loads from ear
ly morning until midnight about the
hot streets of the city. Now they are
compelled to wear a blue shirt and
pajamas, which reek with perspiration
and dust and render the poor creatures
miserable in the midst Of their thank
less labor.
Railroads Not Popular.
The foreigner who goes to Japan to
see things avoids the railroads when
he contemplates short journeys or
pleasure excursions into the country.
Railway travel is cheaper in Japan than
any other mode of travelling, but the
natives prefer to travel by water or
by kurumas II they are not going a
great distance.