The San Francisco call., 1904-03-20

Have it very wide on the shoulders
said she, "and let it be cut on a very
deep sailor collar fashion. Let pieces
of Bruges lace be applied to the shoul-
ders and TO the middle Of the back.
The front must have stoles finished
with Bruges ends"
Another shoulderette has armholes.
but it is a tiny affair, cut off almost
at the shoulder blades. OF course.
there is the deeD shoulder effect, for
nothing is complete without this long
shoulder line. The front is very open.
The whole is made of a black novelty
lace, very tough in its texture, with
Irish crochet lace let in.
Perhaps the most novel of shoulder
cites is a black lace affair, cut in
square fashion acrcss the shoulders
almost like a sailor collar, with a lit
tie green stitchery running through
the lace. There are wide stoles of lace
with great green shamrock leaves let
into the lace.
Still another little shoulder cape is
cut in collar fashion rounding across
the shoulders and coming down to
long points in front. This is built of
very fine cloth and the whole is
strapped with silk of the same color
and stitched In tailor-made fashion.
Another little article for spring wear
is an eton of cloth cut very short. The
sleeves are chopped off above the
elbow and bordered with three rows
OF contrasting stitching. The front is
cut in scallops and there is q second
row of scallops falling over the first
row.
IL L
stamp shows a little shoulder cape
built like a bertha. II is high In the
neck, is cut off at the bust line and is
finished with ruff1e of silk 1t but
tons in the back. The front is trimmed
with a silk applique put on fat
The Very Fashionable Bertha.
The bertha is undoubtedly one of the
most fashionable of summer features
and all sorts of tricks are tried to SINH
late it upon gowns that have no ber-
tina, and particularly upon the Old
short waists, to make them look like
new. A bertha freshens up an old
shirt waist wonderfully. and if it can
be arranged upon a blouse of silk il
sives it a certain tone that is unmis-
takably fashionable and very becoming
to the figure
A French modiste, with many little
trick of dressmaking, is taking very
wide needlework, as fine as her patron
can afford, and is gathering it into a
ruff1e. This she sews along the yoke of
a wash shirt waist, outlining the yoke
in pointed fashion. The effect is lovely.
But, of course, it can only be done
when the waist opens in the back
One of the finest of silk blouses is
built of percaline blue louisine. 1t is
buttoned down the back with Dresden
buttons The front is tucked ais to the
yoke. Outlining the yoke is a deep
flounce of Mechlin lace. The sleeves
are finished with wide cuff of chiffon
and Mechlin-a lingerie cuff
The high-necked bertha effect is seen
not only upon the wash gowns, but Oh
silk blouses as well, and not only in
the cheaper waists, but in waists of
velvet, of velours, of handsome brocade
and OF the most expensive lace blouses.
An exquisite blouse for the Duchess of
Manchester was made almost entirely
of point and duchess lace, with a deep
ruffie of point lace across the front.
put on in such a manner as to give
the bertha effect. And another hand
some blouse was made of real Irish
crochet lace, with a pointed bertha in
front.