The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1904-11-20

I'aquln. held in reverence By milady
as an autohrity to be heard and feared.
has decided that capes are to DO worn
during the approaching winter. His idea
in capes Is that they shall be plain and
simple. One pauses a moment to Won
der, IL III the season Of lyO4-1Sl5. any
thing can be plain and simple, even though
PaqI!n may insist upon the beauty OF
simplicity and unadornedness In fash
ionable toilets TO which the wrap must
give the distinctive keynote.
Deep cape sleeves or doiman-like sleeve S
are already seen on many OF the newest
rain and evening coats. Smart little
Ihrce-quarter length coats In SILK and yel-
vet arc rendered very dressy By cape
collars4or shoulder capes Of lace, chiffon.
SILK or velvet, trimmed in the latter
case with the lovely Marie Antoinette
cmbro!derles and laces which lend IN
viduality and distinction wherever they
appear.
In materials. new favorites for even
Ing gowns are relours moussellnc, chlf-
fon yelvets and Il renaissance Of old
fashioned tarlctan in new and glorlhed
form. For street wear the new broad
cloths, lustrous III color and soft in
weave are first fayorites. Then the soft
cancels hair und I he cashmere OF purely
East Indian origin. new corduroy
weave the hollow-cut cords, vtlyeteen,
serge and the always useful Scotch che-
sviot and tweed. have all n following.
MORE or less pronounced. New color
shades include s.'pervenchc," a blue that
is neither dark nor light, Parma violet,
currant red. apricot. coz de roche, and
pansy purple.
Louis XVI. coats have brought In re-
rival OF rich brocades and lowered vel
-J,p xas1 iF,f 1,hh ~ do ~
In front and pocket flaps, they are consld-
cred to be altogether smart when worn
with chiffon skirts of harmonizing t!nts
In color and are much In favor for
bridesmaids costumes Fur Jackets In
chinchIlla are bolero in shape and open
in front overEu cream or white gulpure#
lace. Tho lace appears also in cuffs for
the sleeves. 1t Is quite iha vogue to
have cloth rcvers to fur jackets and to
have the high standing collar of cloth
as we'll. Both revers and collar are
braided or embroidered.
One new cloak, somewhat nudacious,
but Intensely chic, is OF red cloth, aud
falls straight like a cape from the shoul-z
ders to tho knees. II opens In front over
close htlins. short jacket, fastening up
with frogs and having u decided hussari
suggestion. a
This packet has sleeves, and the outer
cloak Is slit from throat to hem at each
side, but fastens together with little
buttonod straps down the shoulder and
over the arm half way to the elbow.
Below this the Jacket sleeve ca: be
passed through the loose falling cloak
folds. @
Another cloak less striking and intended
for evening wear is Of chalk white cloth
with cordng of pale blue velvet and nat
white silk braid for trimmings. 1t falls
like n long cape from a round yoke, and
T Its unique feature Is the drapcd back
With huge pendent tassel.
Braid Is used upon any and all ma
&tcrials and often in combination with
other trimmings. For example, q hunt
ing green fallle frock from Paquin has
broad band trimmings Of whito cloth. On
the white cloth are laid rows Of very mar.
row black silk braid at half inch intcn
walls, and over the whole inch wide bands
Of green velvet are stitched on In lattice
work form. afi
Among the silk bouses, pretentiously
trimmed there are II few tina t are charm
ing. though tits doubtful whether any OF
them attain tho chic of tho simple hand
worked blcuses, Many of these blouses
follow surpllce lines, with guimpes and
collars of lace or sheer stun, and even
the cloth bouses sometimes cross In
surplice fashion, tho surplicc edges being
finished with stitching, bands of silk.
satin, or braid. binding of silk or velvet,
or tiny plated frills OF silk matching the
cloth In color The Surplice trimming
IS Of course, repeated In some way upon
the sleeves.
J he sieeves of the practical blouse are
usually of the bishop model or some form
or the full puffed upper sleeve and long
close cuff, but upon the dressy blouses
one frequently secs tanciful elbow sleeves
tlrished With frills OF lace, chiffon, or