Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-09-24

many times as desired. A sleeve Of the
mousquetaire style is a good thing with
which to bring last years bodice up to
date, and 1t Is really nothing more than a
wrinkled leg of mutton.
Broad Shoulders.
In whatever fashion the sleeve is trim
med. there is always the broad-shouldered
effect to be reckoned with in the smart
new style, and the broad, square shoulders
are very fetching when not carried to an
extreme. which is apt to caricature even q
becoming mode: Although one does not
like to be out Of tune with the fashions, l
should not say that 1t Is absolutely es-
sential to ones sartorial salvation to be In
the forefront of every novelty. Stili II ls
always best to be en- rapport with tne
spirit of the moment and not put ones
back up against 1t.
There are signs and portents that we are
returning at last to greater dress SIM
evidence of clothes seen at present Is not
sufficient to convict us of this virtue. Oniy
in the matter of the tailor gown IS TINS
Spartan severity apparent, for la MODE mas
elected that, however luxurious our attire
may be, we shall possess at least one SIM
pie garment The coat and skirt gown
exactly meets this requirement, with It's
single-breasted. tight-ftting jacket reach-
ing half way between the waist and knee:
and its narrow revers, velvet collar ana
CLOSELY made sleeves. The tailored skirts
are cut quite plain. with flare at the hem.
1t is curious to note how certain features
Of only a few-years-old modes return TO
favor An instance Of this Is FOUND In tne
revival of broadly strapped seams on tai
lored costumes Of faced CLOTH
Dame Fashion Is often indinerent 10 .ne
cspeciaI needs of the charming little plquaht
women who are obliged to regard as an
athena many styles that are very smart
but utterly beyond their form. Inc stun
ming long coat Is case IN point; As a
thn
autocratic dame has designed deilghtIui
little coat to meet her case. 1t Is fasnioneo
with unadorned simplicity ana reaches q
trifle below the waist Fastening eitneI
straight UP the front or Delng leIt opeiA
to reveal a tailor-like waistcoat.
For Driving Wear.
The wrap of the autumn which belongs to
the motor, brougham or landeau CLASS Is
combination of faced cloth and velvet. This
wrap is kind of hybrid coat and cape, a
strange comminging with double cape hav-
ing sleeves suggesting a coat, while the
whole thing is Indicative of a jacket. 1t
is made of that peculiar new fall color
which is mustard with a tinge of brown in
it. Nothing by way of a tint could be more
undesirable than this latest shade, but Its
ultimatum is smartness, and there Is no
appeal from that. The mustard colored
wrap is treated with bands of velour and
has a fur collar with tasseled fastenings.
Equally stunning is long coat of groy
cloth trimmed with braid about the skirt,
the same characterization being carried out
on the simulated bolero.
Hand embroidery will be a feature of the
winter cloth gown, and even flounceS Of
punched work done on cloth are to be worn.
Very dainty is a fawn cloth frock with
hand embroidered bands and fancy but
tons. The black gown is still a factor in
the coming dress scheme. 1t may be made
very chic by the addition of a velvet col
lar and vest of cream suede.
CATHERINE TALBOT.