The San Francisco call., 1904-08-07

TT is said II we keep odds and ends
long enough they will most certain
Iy come into style again, and this
most assuredly holds good so far
IS grandmother's shawl is concerned
Strarshtway HE yourself UP the mar
row. attic stairs and into the darkest.
most unfrequented corner and unearth
some Of the boxes and ancient chests
that were packed away when the ma
hoEany made way for the Louis XIV
I'D all the newest fads relegated the
staple old heirlOOms into the dark re-
eiops.
For now is the time TO bring forth
the old for verify il is the newest in
= he land. The quaint old 1880 skirts and
tlte uuned and shirred waists have
come In fashion exactly as they used
q -]e worn in hoop days. and the 1904
lsssie is nothing more nor less than a
.ounterDart Of her sister who lived and
fLTted most Outra geOusly before the
war,
These decided styles demand a radical
change in the wrap line. Fancy wear
ING. the ordinary top coat sleeve with a
silk one that stands out on all sides like
= TOY balloon. Fancy crushing the full
waist into tght-fftung Elton and
then trying 70 present a smiling coun-
'.tenance, both with the coat on and Off.
The woman who is absolutely uncon-
ceEned about her personal appearance
is about as rare as a blue rose, and so
II comes about that big frocks demand
ioig coats, and bigger frocks cry aloud
FOR wraps that may be carelessly
. thrown about one, and by so doing
serve a double purpose. Hence the re-
turn Of grandmother's shawl
The splendid embroidered ones are
little short Of a windfau, for they are
the SWEETEST Of the swell. and for a
most excellent reason-they simply defy
Imitation The colors are never quite
as mellow and as soft the design as
quaint and the luster as silky, for time
alone puts its seal OF approval on arti-
cles worth while and marks il then and
there for its very own.
Occasionally the patterns are very
Oriental and are gay with brilliant pea
cocks and with gaudy chrysanthemums
and when this is the case IL limits the
frocks that may be worn with it most
decidedly; especially II the ground
chances 70 be other than white. cream
or pearl gray. But beggars cannot
very well be choosers, and II the chest
can be persuaded TO part with a deep
crimson heavily embroidered with
white, or a crepy black embellished
with pink roses, all mat one may do is
70 make the best OF it and be duly
thankful.
OF course, II goes without saying that
&: white. no matter what the fabric or the
trimmings may be. is always the most
.seryiceable and by far the daintiest
looking. Red suggests the dark-haired,
q: dUsky-eyed gypsy lassie, and deep pinks
and blues the Portuguese girl, who
throws her shawl over her head to pro-
'tect herself from the sun as she trudges
srolidly back and forth to her work.
Black seems TO SAVIOR Of trouble and
sorrow, and as there are few who can
wear IL with any grace il is left to full
i. I'll it's somber promises. So, you see,
: white is about all that is left for
shawls-thst is, OF course, crepe shawls,
for the fabric itself makes all the diff
.fererfce in the world, and what would
be the smartest Of the smart in one
material would be too dowdy for de-
scription in another
. OF these careless throws" there is
an endless variety. The modern ones
are fashioned for pretty alone and are
as light and as airy as a summer
breeze. and, by the way, quite as iIlu-
sive. for they are here in their charm
ling freshness to-day and there in their
bedraggled. sorry condition to-mor-
row.
A French butterfly arrangement is
made Of yards and yards OF tulIe and
a fOamy billow Of soft white lace. The
foundation itself is Of soft white silk,
but as IL is covered with a multitude
Of baby rEfies. all edged with Valen-
ciennes. II might almost as well be of
cotton, save ID occasional unruly ruff