The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1904-07-16

youngsters IN their original SUITS are
hailing you, "Sinko san, otiyo" Mr..
Stranger, good day" An array Of
great gilt lotus flowers and leaves on
long stems showsthat member OF the
family within is dead. In the front
room, unprotected from the street, one
sees the square kago-like box in which,
with knees against the breast, the last
journey is taken.
A beVy Of gayly dressed geisha girls,
with attendants carrying kotos and
samisens, are bound for some dinner or
entertainment, their hair black and shi-
ny and filled with bright ornaments,
their faces and necks white with rice
powder and their lower lips bright with
scarlet paste. They are chattering in
the shrill, penetrating voices which are
peculiar to them.
The merchant steps out from his shop
to tell you he has some new Kakemona
or carving to show, antiques from
three hundred years old to those so re-
cent that the lacquer is hardly dry.
step in, sir" cries a young man wav-
| ing his hand in the air as he paints
with an imaginary brush an imaginary
picture, land see how japanese artist
uses his brush He hands you his
card and you are pleased to read the
motto o. his house is Earnest is the
best policy" 81 was waiting for you,
says a pretty girl, smiling; will you
please come in my shop. / have brack
racker and red racker trays. Yes, very
pretty" She spends all her time in
J front of her shop between the two
bridges. If she sees one cross either
bridge she is already waiting when he
has crossed. No one escapes.
Last week. for a change, we went
eight miles UP the mountain to Lake
Chuzenji a wild and beautiful road zig
zaging back and forth up the steep
mountainside. The lake is a charming
sheet of very blue water, from which
rise high mountains on all sides but one.
The season is short-only six weeks.
This is diplomatic summer center. The
American minister races his sailboat
with the British and Austrian minis
tiers and ! know not what others. He
Eshows good grit, for one afternoon, not
withstanding a capsize, he came in sec
ond. The place sWarms with ministers.
and attaches and admirals' wives and
daughters and the lesser stars that
shine. ~ 49,. s:..A
Abruptly to the north rises the beau
tiful and revered mountain Of Nantai-
zan. While we were at the lake the
yearly pilgrimage to the mountain oe-
Cured. All day long pilgrims, all in
white kimonos tucked in their belts for
easier walking, a straw mat on the
back for a rain coat and bed and a con-
zeal straw hat, passed by in groups of
twenty to forty. Preparations had been
made for them; great ons-storied bar
racks for sleeping, a street Of Temporal
~ booths where were sold food, patent
medicines, charms, sacred pictures,
lanterns with the temple name painted
on them, slaves and hats. There are
quack doctors and fortune tellers. -
most interesting vanity fair. After din
ner we go out, each carrying a paper
lantern, for the Chuzenji streets are not
lighted, and pass down these streets
ItWith their crowdsAof pilgrims and dim
INV lighted booths. We can see many
WEARY with their long walk, asleep in
pass on UP to the temple through a
long avenue of cryptomaria. We find
by the gate which shuts off the noun
tain path great throng Of pilgrims.
There is d hum from their talking.
They carry little paper lanterns OF
white with the temple name painted in
black characters. At half-past eleven
the gate is opened and with a cry they
start to the top. We pass with them
through the gate and watch them enter
and. pass on up the steep path. The
only light is from the paper lanterns,
held high on their slaves. 1t throws a
dim light over their white clothes and
hats. Their faces are in the deep shad-
ow of their wide, peaked hats, A
strange and beautiful sight against the
black trunks. and foliage of the giant
trees edging the path. Five thousand
climbed the mountain the first night
ana saw the sun rise from the temple
on the summit. A memory ais of a
scene at a theater, unreal weird, force
full. @
The days grow cooler. Mako and
Chuzenji will soon be abandoned by the
summer people. The shopkeepers and
hotel men will count their profits and
anticipate another season. And we
shall soon be leaving the pretty house
alone in its garden among the hills
with bright recolleetions of housekeep-
ling in Japan.-Charles Hovey Peppe
in the World To-day.