The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1904-10-09

Madrid, September 25.-One Of the most
charming experiences of our entire triS
was the afternoon spent in coaching
over the Upper Corniche road from
Monte Carlo to Nice. I called my trip
this summer a ''scenic tour" and it GER
tainly has borne out the description, for
we have enjoyed the very best scenery
that each country could afford, and en-
joyed it, too, in the very best way-from
the top of a coach-and four. The Cor
niche road has often been described as
the finest coast drive in the world, but
not until one has driven over it can its
beauties be even approximately under
stood.
The Upper Corniche is simply as it's
name implies, a mere shelf of rock. and
trails circutously around almost perpen-
dicular mountains with the blue Medi-
terranean spread in serenest beauty at
the base. The soft colored villas with
their beautiful tropical gardens, the ter
races of vineyards ana the wide spreading
olive orchards complete q scene of ire
sistible grandeur. There are some parts
OF the world that have so often been
spoken of that 1t is double pleasure to
see them with ones own eyes; and so 1t
was with me with the famous French
and Italian Riviera. 1t Is like realizing
history in some world-famous center.
AT Nice we took the train for Mar
settles, one of the most important seaport
towns of France. The many Ships an
chored within its friendly gates reminded
us of home, and the blue waters we re-
membered Tapped in restless energy our
own beautiful bay of New York But
we would not be tempted, for sunny
Spain-the land of dreams-lay to the
south of us and less than a days journey
away. Before leaving Marseiles we had
a drive up the hill of Notre Dame de la
Garde for the view. which is most mag
nificent, including the island with its
Chateau dit" of Monte Christie fame
AT this point we lost three members of
our merry little party, for Mr.. and Mrs.
Tomlinson and Joy Travelled north to fin
ish their trip at Paris, while we took the
train to the south for SPAIN For half
a days journey we continued to follow
the shores of the blue Mediterranean,
and the cooling breezes were most re-
freshing, for the summer in southern Eu-
rope has been unusually severe and we
were here experiencing our first warm
weather.
At Port Bou, the Spanish frontier,
somehow we were filled with eager ex-
pectancy, for Spain seemed to us a mys-
tic land and in some way different from
the other countries. We did not speak
a word of Spanish, and several who had
just visited Spain told us we would not
be able to eat a thing while we were In
the country, for everything was smoth-
cred In garlic and olive oil. So altogether
We did not anticipate a very comfortable
trip and felt resigned to acknowledge
that the experience was worth the cost.
We found, however, that the customs
officers In Spain were human, just as
they are IN other countfies-and that a
smile or two from the senoritas Of our
party gained a ready passport for all our
baggage.
Nobody hurries through Spain, and tf>
contrast even between here and Italy is
pronounced An extra three pesetas on
each ticket we thought was Just a Span
ish Formally, but when we boarded the
train de Luxe it was cheerfully paid.
Just here l must testify that travel in
Spain is not only comfortable, but luxu-
rious. The trains do not make the time
they do in other countries, but the car
riages, the sleepers and the diners, which
each express carries. are not exceeded
in comfort by the best trains In Ger
many, where I have usually found the
best railway service. The hotels too are
as good as any in Europe, the meals be-
Ing fully UP to the standard and the
service is perfect. II we have expert
enced any discomfort at all 1t has been
caused by the multiplicity of beggars,
even exceeding Naples in This respect. In
fact the country all looked so barre,
and dry and poor and the destitute peo-
pie seemed to be in such great numbers
that our sympathies were greatly aroused
and we were sorry that we had been
guilty of such formidable aggressions in
the recent past-it seemed an outrage to
whip such forlorn country.
We felt more cheerful, however. when
our guide assured us that many of these
beggars were the thriftiest members of
the community. He said that they only
received a peseta or sometimes half a
peseta-10 or 20 cents-a day for their
work from sun up to sunset; In conse-
quence after they experimental one time
and made more than this amount In
day begging they were ruined for life.
Speaking of the Spanish-American war,
1t seems that government scandals are
not confined to our own administration.
We were told that each day the school