The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1904-10-08
BLENDING FALL GOLORs.
IT REQUIRES An ARTIST 10
COMBINE SOME SHADES.
Brilliant CoIOrs Require Careful Blend
ing-OranEe and Magenta Two Diff
cult shades-Artistic blending.


Some OF the colers to be worn this
fall are so brilliant that unless they are
carefully combined they give anything
but a pleasant impression. The bright
orange yellows, for example, need to
be handled by an artist. Combined
carefully with the right browns, grays,
blues, or green's, orange color is joy.
BY itself it is too strong. Wrongly
combined, its merely garnish. The
same is true of emerald green and many
of the reds. Magenta is one of the
most difficult reds, and terracotta is
nearly as bad. Both are excellent
when properly used. Brown, which is
to be had in almost every possible
shade, is an excellent foundation on
which to build any of these brilliant
colors. Gray in the warm shades is
also good. Black and white are rarely
good backgrounds for strong colors.
This was illustrated in a lace waist
seen among a number Of costly waists
and gowns. 1t was exquisitely FASH
toned, but, to a sensitive eye. was quite
ruined by the trimming of narrow
orange ribbon. The orange was of that
hot shade known as eoque de roche,
and was put on as an edge to innumer-
able little frills Of lace and chiffon. If
a pale shade os yellow had been used
the effect would have been charming,
If the lace itself had been coffee-colored
the orange would not have offended
quite so much.
An example of successful blending Of
difficult colors was observed in a very
handsome hat. The crown was of dark
mink put on in a puff. and the brim
was of heavy guipure lace, dead white.
This was sharply turned up on either
side, making a jaunty shape. Around
the mink crown was scarf Of old
rose silk crepe, and rosette bow Of
the same decorated one side Of the
turned up lace brim Above this rosette
were arranged four short ostrich
plumes, while fifth dropped below 1t
on the hair. They ranged In color
from old rose to a dark mahogany SO
skillful was the combination that the
effect was quiet, but decidedly elegant.
The several shades of onion need
careful consideration. The light tones
of it are very good used for collars
and cuffs or vests on tailor-made
gowns of rough mixtures or dark
plaids. The collars, etc, are commonly
braided and are new and very fash
iionable. Occasionally the effect is ex-
tended to the skirt Of the gown. This
was seen in a gray and black mixture.
The skirt had facing Of onion-colored
broadcloath cut In scallops with the
pastel blue cloth headed the facing,
and narrow lines Of black soutache
crossed it all the way around the skirt.
The Jacket had vest of the pastel
blue cloth and collar and cuffs Of the
braided onion -colored cloth.
One sees as many handsome lingerie
waists displayed as in the spring and
summer. Heavier linen is used for the
fall waists, and eyeIet and padded en-
broidery predominant over lace and
drawnwork. although they have not en-
tirely banished the airier effects. APP
parently these linen waists will be much
worn under tailored Jackets. They are
always more satisfactory than silk, but
of course they are much more expen-
sive
Chiffon waists have an immense
vogue. In white and all the lighter
shades as well as the ubiquitous brown
every store and ''parlor shop" as the
small, exclusive places on Fifth avenue
are known, show fine selection of
these fragile creations. Loose drapery
effects are sought rather than conven-
tional shirrings and pufflngs, although
these too are seen. Al pale pink waist,
one Of the new, soft shades, had a
shallow yoke Of white lace, pointed in
the back and front, and from this the
chiffon was draped in festoons. The
draping was so well done that the join
I ing of the sleeve was entirely lost and
the figure seemed swathed In the grace
| full folds. The effect somehow was
flower-like.
A white chiffon waist showed sur
I plice in front, the heart-shapedA neck
being filled in with a guinpe Of white
lace. The waist was shirred very full
on the shoulders, the shirring extend
ing over the shoulders, and third Of
the way down the sleeve. This gave
a wonderfully soft, drapy look to the
sleeve. Below the elbow the sleeve
was shirred in a shallow puff and wa,
4 finished with a double ruffie Of lace.
Another white chiffon was shirred ii
round yoke, the stirring trimmed
with festoons of small chiffon roses
| The sleeves of this waist were shirret
over the shoulders and garland 0
the little roses trimmed the lower edg
of the shirring.
A new tYpe of waist is called the