The Montgomery advertiser., 1904-01-27

a daughter of Mrs. George Crocker. Miss Rutherford was married Thursday to Philip Kearny. The material of the dress Is a very soft cream-colored taf- feta, fainuy brocaded with blue, and embroidered with white roses and gold The skirt has tabiier fiounced with pale blue muslin. On the sides Is long open tunic, not caught up in panniers, according to the second form of the Ma rie Antoinette skirt, but showing a lit- tie prominence of the hips. The bottom of the tunic Is ruched, the sides embroid- cred with lace and gold. The bodice of this toilette has pointed front, taffe- ta ruchings coming down from the shoul- ders to outline a lace vest. The decol- letage is daintily framed in lace ruch- ings The sleeves are of an entirely new model. puffed at the shoulders, ruched and shirred close at the elbows, then fln- ished with deep lounces.
 Probably. when summer brings thin materials, we shall experiment with pam niers In thick stuffs they could not yet succeed. For the moment we shall go on coquetting, as we have done for some time past, with fuller and fuller skirts, adjusted less and less at the hips, even adding padding when nature has not been sufficiently generous in that part of the figure. With the details, too. of the Marie Antoinette costume we shall amuse ourseives-sieeves, skirt panels, and especially shall we delight in Marie Antoinette materials-hrocades, with deli cate ground tints of white. pearl-gray and soft pastel shades, embossed with traceries of flowers and vines.
 Marie Antoinette Stuffs.
 Never in the history of dress did wo- men wear Ioyelier stuffs than in Marie Antoinette's earlier days, before exaggera- ton had coarsened the brocade patterns and made too glaring the contrasts of color. Hideous muslins figured with sprawling flowers in hues that libel nature are already on the market and may early kill the taste for such goods, though nothing can be prettier than the best Louis Seiz muslins, whose small, fraceful patterns show rich colors always toned down by softer hues.
 A dress of amethyst silk chiffon worn few days ago by Miss Leila Paget, a granddaughter of Mrs. Paran Stevens, illustrated the extent to which new ideas have been developed in late winter cos- tunes. The dress had an underslSirt of delicate shade of amethyst cloth, hem med at the bottom with astrachan fur. Over this came a chiffon tonic cut longer in the back than in front, gathered full at the waist and trimmed with a round- and-round insertion of embroidered guipure The bodice consisted of a bolero of amethyst velvet, bordered with astrachan and incrusted with guipure. It was fastened with amethyst satin bows across a guipure vest, and fell in loose folds. The sleeves furnished an example of a recent decided change. For several seasons sleeve fullness has been massed below the elbow. Now 1t has crept up to the neighborhood of the shoulder. Miss Pagets sleeves showed the large chiffon puffs, one reaching from the shoulder half way to the elbow, the other terminating a little below the elbow. Long. close fitting cuffs finished with astrachan covered the lower arm. The Louis XVI hat was of pearl-gray felt, trimmed with gray feathers.
 New Spring Materials.
 Among spring materials new silk tis- sues and embroidered mulis have been the prettiest of the week. An exquisite fabric is a printed and embroidered Louis XVI null. An example has a white ground, covered with loose roses. a vivid pink in color, among which wander ends of blue | ribbon.
 l A model dress has been made of this material, trimmed with wanton pro- fusion of lace and ribbon. The skirt.
 which opens over q chiffon front trim med with lace fiounces, is hoped with small sky-blue ruchings. The bodice Is
 collarless, and cut out in a slight round.
 New linens come both in loose etamIne
 weaves and with hard enough surfaces 10