Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-03-05

seen on a white canvas gown was made of
gathered white satin ribbon about an incn
wide put around in circles as large as smah
breakfast plates. Only one side of the rid
bon gathered. the outer edge stanulng
out in a frill. These circles were placed
between deep tucks of the material, which
might be either wolfe or canvas.
We are still faithful to the postage stamp
method of using squares of lace on linen
gowns. but the most approved idea is now
to run line of insertion up each side OF
the front gore. which turns and forms
hip yoke. Depending from this yoke at in
tervals around the skirt are other strips of
lace Still another trimming mode is to
head a bias founee with a foot and a half
strewn with tiny cotton balls. The same
lace makes the little bolero around the
arms.
Of White Serge.
A smart white serge costume has per-
fectly plain seven-gored tailored skirt and
coat which is the exact fac-simile of an
American naval officers mess jacket.
White military braid binds the coat, and
frogs are the fastenings down the front.
This costume is wonderfully swagger for
mornings at the casino Apropos of things
military. braid is to trim spring skirts from
the hem to about six inches from the waist
Black military braid looks particularly well
on blue serge.
Many dressmakers are cutting their skirts
In one. easing them around the hips and
then allowing the material to fall full about
Two inches on the ground. Graduated all
the way up the skirt are bands Of silk or
velvet In other words, they have returned
to the beer barrel idea, which is a be-
coming mode for a slight woman when
worn with a bolero or little coatee trimmed
with braid
Many of the skirts verge upon the eccen-
trio In style. For example. the fullness in
stead OF being in the back or distributed
evenly all around the waist is relegated to
the front. the back being left almost plain.
Another model has the upper portion of the
skirt arranged in three volants the lower
one just reaching the knees. Below this
comes the plain skirt. which merely touches
the ground all around
Sleeves to Be Fuller.
We may now be certain that sleeves will
be fuller. although they will remain fiat on
the shoulders. The newest bodices are cut
with the shoulders and sleeves in one, and
the fullness begins about four inches below
the shoulder.
The little coffee coat which the English
have found most useful and becoming for
long time the Parisians are just adopting.
Just why this dainty ephemerality is called
by its name history Sayeth not as gin
jacket or chocolate coat would be equally
appropriate appellations. But coffee coat it
is, and, topsy turvy fashion, 1t is worn at
afternoon teas. These comfortable coats
are made low in the neck of pretty chiffons
and nets, cut either in bolero fashion or
with wide fchu effects. They form kind
of life saving station between the heavy
outdoor costume and the thin. low dinner
gown.
1t may sound like forcing the season to
talk about sunshades, still the fortunate
sojourners in sunny climes need these pro-
auctions and the ateliers are equal to the
demand The parasol exactly matching the
costume-indeed. when possible, made OF a
piece of twill be the summer vogue. The
old fashion of making a colored parapluie
the color center of toilet is therefore de
mode. A small though distinctive feature
of the latest umbrella is a peculiarly long
ferrule in highly polished gilt In the mat
ter of handles there is positively no limit.
and real jewels are being pressed into the
service of tn emost beautiful of these.
CATHERINE TALBOT.