New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1904-07-23
IN HIGH ATTITUDES.
Pleasures and Pains of Mountain
Climbing an Many Lands.
ADVENTURES ON THE ROOF OF THE
WORLD BY Mrs Aubrey lie Blond CMrs.
Main). With thirty-two pages OF lllusua-
ton SYo. DID. 333. (E 2. button q COZ

| II was q happy thought of Mrs. MAINS 10
| gather into one volume large NUMBER OF ac-
| counts by daring mountain climbers OF their
| experiences among the clouds in different parts
| OF the world. Although about mountain climo-
/ ers the book is not intended for them. Inc
| stories which she and others tell in its pages
are familiar TO those who have already enlisted
| under the banner of Excelsior. through the
| medium of The Alpine Journal" and the DOCKS
| which some of them have written, and all OF
| them have read. Whether the volume VIII
| raise up a new generation of mountain scalers
| or not will depend upon the individual tempera-
| ments of its readers. The accounts of the dam
gers discomforts and sufferings, not to speak Oh
| the deaths, of many Of those whose achieve
| ments are here recorded will probably be suf-
fcient to discourage the majority of jewellers In
the plain from seeking TO follow in footsteps so
hazardous. Those adventurous spirits whose
| souls fired to become eligible TO membership
| in the Alpine Club VIII have no reason TO COM
plain that they have been deceived as to the diff
fculties and discouragements, as well as the
periIs of their undertaking. They will, moreover,
If they have read the book carefully. have
learned many valuable lessons which Mrs Main.
herself practical mountain climber, has drawn
| from her own experience and that of others
who too often have fallen victims to their heed
lessness or lack of knowledge.
One Of the first requisites for success Is a
good guide. This is not merely for the sake OF
assistance while learning the rudiments. The
more expert and ambitious climber becomes,
the more necessary is a guide of the best class.
Even the most experienced yachtsman would
hesitate to cross the Atlantic with only anna
teurs on his quarterback and in his engine
room.
ammsins siSe exemped once upon time at Mon
tanvert, where in front Of the hotel stood the
killed on the Dent du Geanp, talking. TO the Duke
of the Ahruzzi and other FIRST rate climbers. W nile
specimens OF the Chamounx ''socete des Guides"
and dSsi leaning on tan Stick surmoanted by
m Earl R ON ne 5Gsh n a@q aa
veIser Ia Mer de Glace?' he inquired. -,
one hand and with the other indicating the group
hard by, VOLTA les guides pour Ia Mer de Glace!
Moi je suis pour Ia grande montague"
There is much rivalry between guides yet
when q great guide passes away it is seldom
that one hears anything but good of him. Mrs.
Main relates how a French climber was once
making the ascent of the Italian side Of the Mat
teThorn-where Carrel, noted guide, met
ira gic and noble death-and asked his own guide
Where did Carrel fall?" "Carrel nest pas
tombe. Ii est mort was the sharp response.
Not the least Of the dangers of Alpine adventure
those from avalanches, and there is small
choice between being beneath or top Of one
of these destructive snowslides. Mrs Main
quotes an account by the late Mr.. Moore of an
incident that occurred during an ascent of the
M0nch. the third time that the peak had been
negotiated. The party on their return trip
following very narrow ridge.
On the left hand is an absolute precipce; on the
right a slope; which mi Sht be called precipitous.
the ridge enormous, and the sun had begun
to tell upon it, We knew too much to attempt 10
of some twelve feet below it on the Aletsch SIDE:
over gown We dared not go owing to the steep
ness OF the slope and the danger OF an avalanche.
With MeIchior in front, it is unnecessary say
man is more alive than he to the danger arising
from snow cornice. He sounded with his
living the cor6ice a wide berth SuddenIv came n
felt myself stagger and instinctivey swinging ever
mont Sitting asIrde the ridge, With numbering
roar the cornice on our left for distance Of
two hundred yards went crashing down 10 the
depths below. sending up clouds Of snow dust
m i0 W. nIy h , Gea my on pa rom
the rope that 1 knew-though at the moment /
mTSe lafe As the dust Cleared te or Mecho Ee
also sitting astrde the ridge. turned toward his
er's sunburned cheeks his first words. when he
could find utterance showed Cod he thanked!'
said he; Il never thought TO either of you
there" We had. in fact, escaped destruction by
hands breadth. As l believe, our right feet had
zen on the FlSge our LEFT on the coIniee we had
use to make that instructive movement TO the
self, Few words were said; but words poorly ex-
f n b hsd fortnnav Ts 'ne b as
the precpice fifty feet below. 1t too precious
10 leave behind. so We let MIN down by the rope.
class guides When not hameeredy by Herrsbat be
regained it without difficulty.
The emotions excited in climber who has
succeeded in attaining the summit of hitherto
unclmbed peak graphically described by
c. T. Dent, in an account of his trip TO the top
of Gastola, in tt Central Caucasus He was
accompanied by w. F. Donkin, who later lost
his life IN an attempt to scale the Dych Tau,
in the same range They were accompanied by
two Swiss guides
TO us and touched the snow with his hand and we
sat down in silence. Almost on the instant as we
and echoed around-a grim saivo Of natures artiI
itry. The sudden sense Of rest heightened the ef-
Never have l felt the sense of isolation so ccm-
Of 9 hSnt into h ta as the
reality The ven OF wreathng vapor screened the
me black Thunder clouds Srftng salenI 5 S sh@t
S GU the "9 pro petoW No man knew where
strange sr, s land We were alone with nature far
with Strange emotions thrilled the frame ans
9uickened the pulse. Weird thoughts crowded
Believe me. under such conditions a man will see
Trth h across the threshold Of the unknown than
the world will ever reveal to him.
Not to all is it given to experience such SEN
stations. There are. however pleasures in noun
tain climbing to be had nearer home and on
more frequently trodden paths. Take the ac
count of climb in the Pyrenees. made by Henri
Brulle, as translated by Count Russell:
o., Another not Ter time crossed the yignemale alone
inc peasantest OF my souvenirs. A furious storm
was raging. Enveloped in the morning in a dense
log, annoyed in steep coulors of the Cerbonas h,.