The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-10-01

idea has been launched in the French
center of fashion, although all the
leading houses have had their open
thing, this writer says, it is in the de-
creasirfg number of 1880 costumes
Girdles have crept higher and higher
on the bodice. but there is nothing alb
Solutely new in cut or drapings. Skirts
have become more sedate, but blouses
are more coquettish than ever. With
the Louis XIV and Louis XVI coats the
skirts are made almost perfectly plain
with only a big box pleat in the back
stitched fat for several inches from
the belt. The coat is very long. Many
coats are cut with inside vests. Some
of the jackets have girdleS coming to
a point in front. Some dull gilt but
tons are used, but the smartest but
tons are of enamel, or of silver or gilt
with velvet centers.
All the half-tone shades of red and
brown are in vogue, and the chamofs
tones are as common over there as
here But, as the writer quoted says,
they are difficult to wear becomingly,
especially that glaring shade of sui
phur, and before another month has
rolled around it is predicted that
they will have given place to the
that have been seen in women's win
ter outfits for years. Nothing will
ever take the place of them. These
bizarre, faddy shades are introduced
time some women have invested in
them the market will settle down to
the old humdrum tones which never
die.
Sleeve and shoulder effects are as
broad or broader than ever. Some
sleeves are corded below the arm as
far as the elbow in order to make
them stand out. Many little buttons
trim the sleeves and bodices. They
are employed for everything except
use, apparently, the hook and eye and
patent fastener still performing their
original function.
Silks are of course, in great de-
mand, and taffeta leads, but it is pre-
dicted that some woman will even
tually discover the good qualities of
soft, heavy silk on the gros grain
order, and everyone will follow suit,
for this silk combines the essential
good points of softness, lustre and
richness. If gros grain comes to the
front, faille may do so, and ottoman,
too. Bengaline is very fashionable
already for evening wear. Some of
the Partisan couturiers say that silk
will be worn all winter with fur, but
as this writer wisely remarks, one can
not always depend upon such predic-
lions. Silk seems essentially a spring,
fall and summer material, except of
course for indoor uses Nothing
makes prettier house dress than soft,
lustrous silk.
The papers are printing such a stun
ming picture of Miss Pauline Astor, the
coming bride. writes Helen Rowland
in the New York Press. 1t might be
called 1.-THE Girl in the Picture Hat"
The wearing of the picture hat is
something that Miss Aston evidently
acquired with her English education;
for if there is one thing an English girl
knows how to do artistically it is to
wear a picture hat. 1t is the only
matter on which she can give her
American cousin points. The English
girl can wear a bebe hat and look
babyish in it. whether her nose be
retrousse or Roman. her hair golden
or muddy, and her chin square or
dinpled. Somehow the American girl
is too chic, or seIf-conscious. or world
ly wise to get the proper effect in a
real picture hat. Miss Astor. for in
stance, if she had been a true blue
American would have had that sim
pie, round, umbrella-shaped affair
twisted up on one side or curved down
over one eye, or turned up in the back
or loaded with feathers or crinkled or
, cocked-in fact, anything but just
what it was, set straight on her fluffy
hair and tied under her chin with soft
chiffon streamers. which round out
her cheeks and make her look like an
innocent, pretty child. The difference
between the English and the American
girl is this: The former aims con-
stantly to look more innocent and
ignorant than she really is, while the
latter spends her life trying to give the
effect of a wickedness and worldly wis
dom which she does not possess. That
is why the American girl cannot wear
bebe hat and the English girl can.
After the first performance of Geo.
AIDES new comedy, 1.-The College Wild
ow,'' at the Garden theater. New York
last week, Mr.. Savage and Mr.. AIDE
were talking of the enthusiastic recep-
ton accorded the play. The manager
pointed out that the public was obvi-
ously ready to support theatrical en-
tertainment of the clean. wholesome
sort-devoid of vulgarity, risque situa
ton and profane ribaIdry-and he con-
graduated the playwright upon his
resolute adherence to the policy of
writing for the respectable element -
''It will pay most in the long rum,
he went on. ANY young girl can safe
ly take her mother to see one of your
comedies. You offer a natural stimu-
liant; not the humor of Gilbert. for
that suggests champagne, nor the hui
NOR of Charley Hoyt, for that sug-
gests highballs-''
Nor the humor of Harry 3. Smith,
I hope" broke in the playwright, for
that suggests beer"
t'Your humor, my dear fellow" pur-
sued the impresarfo, brings citation
without iEtoxication."
"a kind of aerated water, you mean ?
With plenty of gas?'
mo, sir, not even that simple arti-
flee. All the ingredients of your fun
are natural ana go into the mixture