The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-01-10

Moleskin as craze continues unabnted, and from present indications, instead of peo- ole setting traps for the extermination or the little animal they will be starting breed Ing for them. It does seem rather strange that after so many years this skin should have so suddenly become popular. When IL wns first seen last season grave question arose as to whether 1t would ever take hold of the popular fancy. One reason for It's popularity Is found In It's becoming tones another that it blends well with cloth. silk or velvet. while third Is because 1t is so attractive with just a little touch of color especially with cream lace or ermine.
 At first this fur was not expensive. com paratiyely speaking, and there was cer- tninly nothing to warrant its being so cost iy as 1t is at the present moment: but 1t suddenly sprang Into popularity early this autumn and from that moment has had to he reckoned as one of the expensive furs At the present time 1t Is made mp in short Jackets. medium length coats and long coats and cloaks. as well as in all the different varieties of neck pieces and In bands for theater and evening gowns.
 One of the newest styles of capes with stole ends is made of moleskln trimmed with bands of senlskin, put on to give the effect of ribbon velvet. Why 1t should be considered desirable to have fur look like velvet is not known. Yet 1t seems as though it were better to use velvet and make it look
 
 and that Is the point to be considered The Eton jacket or rather the jacket that Is in Eton shape at the back and in front is either in double breasted blouse effect or in square tabs. looks especially well In moleskin. The sleeves are large and in bishop shape, but below the elbow are striped with bands of cloth or velvet to match the materials used for the gown with which the coat is to be worn.
 Fur Gowns Eccentric.
 Whole gowns of fur are considered eccen- tric, but on the other side they are fashion able, and the expense does not seem to ln- terfere with their popularity Moleskin cos tunes and Persian lambs are the smartest of all, and really they are extremely ef- fectivc with the plain skirt and either three quarters or short jacket, trimmed only with bands of braid. velvet or cloth In many in- stances these gowns are not trimmed at all.
 The long, halfftting coat have very much the same appearance at first sight as the coat and skirt to match. They, too, are ex- pensfye. but are In great demand and are worn not only as wraps but with street gowns It is a decided innovation to have these long coats made in moleskin, for it must be admitted the fur is not a very dur able one. The coloring is so attract however. and the fur itself has such charm Ing markings that. of course, 1t cannot be re- sisted Just a touch of ermine in n tie in facings or fin cuffs is most attractive with moleskin, and one odd and effective fashion bas short Jacket with waistcoat of ermine and 1abot of yellow lace that falls in the center of the waistcoat. and that shows whether the coat is fastened or turned back
 Time was when fur coats were extremely unbecoming. because they hid the lines of the figure and made even a slender woman look stout and clumsy but those were the days when any ready made fur coat was CnOsen there tion paid to the fit. Now just as much care. thought and time are spent on a fur coat as on n dress waist with much more satisfac- tory results. Then, too. the work in fur Is much more skifuly executed, the fur Is better dressed and 1t Is no longer considered necessary to put heavy lining all the way through the coat. Now some attention is paid to the waist line. and the lining Is thin ner just there. although both fashion and common sense insist that there should be enough warmth over the shoulders and chest and fin the sleeves. Very cleverly is the matter of warmth arranged fin the sleeves. which at first glance at the elbow length and deep lace ruffies seem to be quite chilly. There is full undersleeve of satin and often an interlining of wool that makes the sleeves delightfully."- warm without being too thick and clumsy. and the sleeves. like the rest of the coat, are carefully cut and fitted.
 Coats With Broad Bodices.
 Many fanciful shapes In short fur Jackets are very smart. and the fashion nowadays 10 to have the fur match exactly the color of the skirt of the costume. gray cloth gown with squirrel coat exactly the same shade fs attractive; q Persian lamb jacket with black broadcloth skirt, moleskin with cloth sssts the same color and s.ble jacket with skirts of cloth as near the color as possible are certainly about