The sun., 1904-07-31

delicious beef gelatine, using other meats.
All the French cooks add ham and some
times bit Of Italian sausage such as salami
or bologna to such meat dishes, and there
Ia no denying the fine favor that the nam
adds.
For the gelatine the boiled beef is used,
and with the chopped up ham and some
French fageolets mixed with 1t the taste
Ia delicious enough to convert even the
most hardened beefsteak eater to the BELIEF
that somethinR else besides sirloin is worth
eating.
The roast beef must nowadays be made
TO exhaust all its possibilities, and these are
30 great that sometimes another meat must
be allowed to intervene. After 1t has been
eaten as roast the first day, 1t may appear
cold or broiled II 1t Is rare enough or as
a ragout or in croquettes.
There IL one more dish to be made from
1t after that, although this may not be in
the repertoire Of the usual cook. There
! is the delicious grilled bone, beloved OF the
| frequenters Of chop houses.
| But there are objections to the bones
served in these places. 1t is by holding
| the bone that the beef is cut. The steward
grabs the beef in that way and the bone 10
| apt to have been pretty we'll handled before
1t gets TO the grill.
! In private house there can be no draw.
backs Of this kind to the enjoyment OF the
bones. They should be put into the oven
and roasted until the meat clinging to them
has been thoroughly well cooked. 1t should,
F., In fact, be almost burned to a crisp on the
outside.
Over the bones before they are put into
| the oven should be sprinkled enough dry
mustard to give them flavor. If they are
to be served as the principal meat dish,
they are improved by having tomatoes
| cut in halves and seasoned with salt and
pepper put on top Of them.
Most Of these dishes are possible from
other meats. Stuffed shoulder Of veal is
as good cold as hot. Cold pork and ham
chopped up together make a delicious
croquette; and the ham croQuettes, when
they are sufficiently mixed with bread
crumbs and potatoes not to be too salty.
are a delightful incident Of a dinner and
enough for the meat course to persons
who do not have to eat great deal Of It.
The beef loaf described may be made
with pork ham or veal.
The least expensive parts Of the lamb
are quite as good for some purposes as the
most costly. The neck IL, for instance
used in all the best restaurants for ra.
gout.
The butcher will separate the Joints
which should be fried before the bones are
taken out.
The mere fact that the prices Of meats
are high now should not discourage any
housekeeper who is willing to take little
more time to make her family comfort
able. To make these various dishes q
good as they really can be Is test Of
cooks skill, and It is In those countries II
which meat is scarce that the women hav'
learned to cook best. They are compelle<
to make up by their own skill for the lacl
of natural flavor in meats.
Fish may, of course, be made to take tn
place OF meat in many ways. One Is In tn
fish salad, which is hearty enough to max
1t quite easy to get along without meat a
the meals supplied with it.
The best fish for the purpose il halibut
which should be boiled. Then 1t is serves
cold with mayonnaise dressing, cold toma
toes, some lettuce and few string beans
All, of course, are cold and the salad Is sub
stantial and filling enough to be substitut
almost for roast beef.