The San Francisco call., 1904-07-24

quite belle the name. They are nor
shfrred and they are not worn over
the gown and not under it. One Of
these is made of piece-lace cut in yoke
shape with stock attached. To give
the stock it's proper shape there is q
narrow threading of pale blue ribbon
which ties around the throat The
whole is profusely embroidered in
oriental stitches.
Probably the greatest improvement
which can be made to an old gown is
a local one. A woman having "a
dress Of navy blue voile found at the
middle of the season that it was hope
Iessly out of date. II was draggled
and without stvle. 1t lacked that
smartness which is necessary in a
gown.
Making a trip to town this woman
exhibited her navy blue vOile 10 a
dressmaker. who Immediately obtained
enough Persian embroidery to border
the three fiOunces with which the skirt
was trimmed. She also edged the sleeve
ruffles with the Persian. Then she set
bands of Persian around the yoke in
such a manner as to make it pointed
yoke She indicated a hip yoke and
she made an epaulette of the Persian
which extended down over the sleeve
and made a sleeve cap.
Finally. as a cap stroke Of genius.
she added a stock of crushed white
velvet, chiffon weight, and a girdle OF
white chiffon velvet. This made the
gown quite new again and was done at
a comparatively low cost.
Another summer gown which needed
renovating was in a shade Of golden
brown taffeta- This was made new by
narrow bands of black velvet put on
in a way to reinforce the material.
You can do a great deal with bands Of
black velvet If you know how to go
at it.
One gown. a black taffeta, was
trimmed with dozens and dozens OF
narrow black velvet bands and put on
In groups to indicate hip yoke and to
make a border for the skirt hounce. II
you are going 10 use these velvet bands,
buy your black velvet by the bolt. put
it on freely and see that the bands are
not more than half an inch in width,
with a preference for quarter inch
widths. In this way you get the smart
touch which will be the making Of your
gown.
The Cross-Stitch Girl
The linen cross-stitch girl is a busy
parsonage this season, for she has dis
covered her possibilities. Indeed. they
are without limitation. She can take
an old tan linen waist and make il SIM
ply gorgeous with her own handicraft,
and she can take an old cloth waist all
out Of date and bring it right up to the
mark by adding to il her bands Of en-
brOidery.
IhlS young woman Will take strips
of heavy white linen and cut it into
bands to form panels for the front OF
her waist. 1t takes one wide panel to
go down the middle of the front Then
she will take a wide strip and make a
band for the neck. Then she will take
another strip and make an epaulette
fer the shoulder, carefully measuring
its length. And. finally. she will cut
out deep cuffs and then she is ready to
go to work. All the measurements must
be accurately made.
She will embroider these bands with
the oriental colors. carrying them out.
not in the swinging japanese style. but
in the little neat Armenian cross stitch.
She will make her waist set in the most
accurate manner, using wash silks.
And, when she has completed her set.
she will work half dozen squares, TO
. be set into the sleeves and into the
waist. These squares give a finishing
touch Of elegance.
They take linen in a shade Of new
blue and work It in this way. And they
take tan colored linen and coffee color
ed linen. Beside this they take linen
that is in the deep brown coIors and
upon these dark canvas backgrounds