The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1904-11-13

Helen Wheeler in the November PHI
grim rays in regard to the styles that arc
introduced for the autumn and winter:
In spite OF the fact that every one is
advising tho wearing Of whole gowns"
fh.s winter Instead Of separate blouses,
numbers OF these blouses are shown and
tho styles were never pEettier. Tho sim
p,e SHIRT waists, OF course. arc abso-
'sIute necessities. They arc made UP 5this
& winter In the heavy cotton yestlngs. i!an I
neis and the washable chCvlots and veil
{ings. Plain white waists are worn. 1nut
this Is a season when color reigDs SUI
preme In the new shirt waists as veal as
in everything else. IS
Solid colors in bright tints are TO be
found among the vestings and are very
stylish, hut the prettiest waists arc those
that have Il white ground and a. coiored
stripe or figure Narrow. broken stripes
are particularly good and 10 further en-
phasizc the color there arc opalescent
buttons matching The predon'hatins
color have seen a few vcstng waists
finished with these buttons. and, IN addi-
y tion trimmed with rows OF narrow SILK
moha,r ipraid Of the color al the waist
In fact. the buttons and inc braid must
exactly match. This rnoha!r braid Is on
everything, evening coats and tho most
waists it Is rather too unusual to be
universally admired.
There is really little change In the
shape OF the new walsts, The shoulders
ARE long iand square but not dropping and
the sleeve, which IS ofteneAt seen, Is Of
medium size with a good deal Of fu!lness'
at the bottom. where it is gathered into
a straight cuff two and half or three
inches wide. "A very few waists have n
deep close fitting cuff. fully six or seven
nches long. but this would not be a wise
model to copy too genera Ny.
Though there IS so little change In the:
shirt waists. there are many rev ways
OF making the stocks worn with them.
The stocks with very long tabs made In
linen last summer have been copied in
sink for the winter, Sometimes there Is,
ono tab. sometimes two narrow ones, and
very often d half dozen are used, one
falling directly over the other. Narrow
straps which button IN front, finish the
stock proper. Dark silk is used for these
stocks and only one color introduced un-
less one wants to cmbrolder It; In that
case, bright floss In a half dozen tints
lis employed. The stocks which are SIM
ply stitched or p!pcd with the same silk
arc quite as stylish as tho embroidered
ones. though the latter are very effec-
tive.
Another equally reliable authority in
inc realm OF ldSlloll 0SC|hESs LHbt many
of the simple gowns, which are simple
only In so far as the trimmings are In.
expensive are smarter In appearance
than the costl!er dresses. The less fortu-
nate sister should find comfort In the old
saying. Some women wear clothes. some
ari, dressed by maids and tailors, and
some are dressed by the light Of genius"
It Is the way they wear their Clothes
and the Instructive knowledge OF what
is suitable to them that comments the
latter class to their lenvous friends.
amplitude Is their characteristic feature
full skirts, full sleeves, and full blouses;
we have no limit as to the material that
may be used, The Introduction Of the
Direetoire modes Indicate that the sleeves
are to be smaller
One of the newest stocks Is made Of
white flannel EIeavly embroidered In
white or III color. These stocks are cut
In one piece with q shaped band for the
neck and one or two tabs two or three
inches wide, and long enough to reach al
most to the belt. T@.ses flannel stocks
are buttonholed lirregularly on tho edges
md then literally covered with embrol-S
derry eltheryin conventional desisn work.
cd solidIy or English i<cut work. Tiny
are particularly pretty when the cmbrol-4
derry Is done In several shades OF one
color-,blues or browns. AMI
q The very newest things in ribbons arc
4 the Tartan stripes tied In q four-in-
hand. 9 Tho white turnovers. which are so
u his winter OF very heavy linen, thu edges
buttpaholed; the prettiest ones are fln!sh-
ed with cut work, all the en- oidery be-
Ing done In white. The collars for these
Gets are cut Just vide epouSh 70 AZ the