The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-01-29

belt and so giving the most becoming OF all
lines. Its sleeves are huge puffs finished
with cuffs and frilIs of lace and over the
shoulders are arranged graduated RULES
that give a hchu effect. SO carrying out the
very latest idea in giving that peculiar
broad line that is always obtained by tying
a tichu round the figure just below the
shoulders. As a matter OF course, the
sleeves must begin at this point, but the
armhOleS are made ample underneath, so
relieving the sense of restriction as much
as possible.
SOFT WOODS FAVORED.
All extremely soft wool fabrics are to
be greatly worn and these are made fuller
even than the soft silks showing shirrings
and gaugings while the silks are oftener
tucked as in the case OF the gown just
described. A new and really charming fab
ric is a novelty barege that lends itself
to treatment of this latter sort admirably
well. 4 most effective gown, made for
bride who will so to the California coast.
Is of the material in a soft reseda with
lines of white. Both skirt and blouse are
a mass of shirrs and as all the latest fea-
lures are included in the design it suits
my purpose exceptionally We'll. The SKIRT
Is Shirred in three cords over the hips, IN
three cords with a full heading above the
knees and again in three cords and the wide
beading TO form deep fOunce that Is edged
with three wide tucks. The bodice Is
blouse with q round yoke of full white
muslin enriched with lace Below the yoke
IT shows three cord shirrings, then a space,
then three more, with the heading, that
are continued on the sleeves and is gath
cred at the belt. Finishing the yoke Is
narrow full band of velvet with medallions
of lace set over it about their own width
apart. The sleeves are full below the shir-
rings and widen out to form full puffs that
are again held by three cord shirrings be-
low the elbows. are finished with full double
lingerie frills with lace and are caught
UP little at the inner arms. At the waist
Is draped girdle OF velvet, the entire effect
being one of rare charm, while there is
notable absence OF the over lavish
culiar. A second gown of a SINH
lar sort, or to meet the similar needs
rather, is of gray wolfe with trimming OF
self-colored lace and chiffon, there being
not so much a touch of white any
color to mar the tender loneliness of the
soft tone. The skirt has the narrow front
gore, or panel, that is so well liked, which
is laid in wide tucks TO form double box
plalt, while at sides and back il consists
or three flounces, each tucked at its upper
edge. AT the lower edge of each is a two
inch band of gray point de Venise that is
set in, there being no material beneath. The
bodice is blouse with a deep draped CIR
die and opens over a very full front OF
gray chiffon, while over the shoulders are
epaulets that extend nearly TO the ell
bows and are finished with hens and lace
to match the skirt. The sleeves are wide
and full, with narrow fiared cuffs, full falls
of fine gray lace that are most graceful and
becoming. Gray, by the way, is to be
t..
ecru, of which I have already spoken, and
all champagne and tan tones, are counted
smarter than any other colors. although we
may look for variety in that direction as
we'll as in others.
DROP SKIRTS PLAIN.
AS think 1 have stated in previous let
tiers the full skirts quite generally made
with this plain front and very wise the
arrangement is, for fullness over the abdo-
men was never yet becoming, and the folds
about the feet are somewhat Iessened.
Tucks, plaits, shirrs, whatever is used
must give good lines and straight lines.
else is the effect one of carelessness rather
than style, and all things combine to make
the dressmalxer's task an exacting one.
The gown may have simple air, as a
few of them have, but 1t is simplicity OBJ
tanned by much labor. This correct fall
of the fullness is as essential as the cut
and fit of the drop skirt, which must be
perfect to insure anything like success.
Let me add that this last is as unlike the
skirt proper as can be, and is gOred and
shaped to fit over the hips without fold
faring below the knees, where it is finished
with frills that support the outer skirt.
Bridal gowns for these early days of the
year are really superb. and, oddly enough,
with the general tendency toward fullness,
somewhat more severe in cut than has been
the for some time. Lovely soft but
heavy brocades made en- princesse are ia
vorites, and truly exquisite az well as dig
nified they are. Pearl passementerie and
pearl with steel are much used. and make
an effect brilliant in the extreme. Also,
skirts are rendered full below the knees
by frills and fiounces of chiffon and of
lace, and charming garlands of flowers are
seen. AS a matter of course, the broad
shoulder is found. and closings at the
back and, TO obtain the former, yokes cut
to form parts of the sleeves are much used,
with full berthas of lace falling below. A
| lovely gown, to be worn within the coming
month is made in princess style, with one
Of these deep yokes of unlined chiffon edged
| with a bertha formed by frill of point
| lace, and shows frills Of lace on the skirt,
with puffings Of chiffon between that are
| headed with wide pearl passementerie, mo-
| tifs of the same being applied on the yoke.
| Another is made on similar lines, but is
| finished with garlands composed of net,
almost covered with single blossoms Of the
| lily of the Valley-that is, caught here and
there with punches of the flowers and their
| tender green foliage. The steel and pearl
combinations are brilliantly scintillating
| and effective but to my eye a bit hard I'M
| less half buried in chiffon. One other gown
| that l had the fortune to see is also in
| princess style but shows lace headed by
! what the French call bouillones of chiffon,
! through the centers of which are placed
| bands of this new trimming that is really
! beautiful used in this way, but as bands
/ unveiled / confess it seems to me more
! snowy than elegant, more brilliant than
/ attractive MAY MANTON.