The Vinita weekly chieftain. [volume] (Vinita, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1902-1905, 1904-01-07
TRAGEDIES IN THE ALPS.
The Victims Are mostly Venturesosns
Persons Who Go Too Far
without GuidcH.

tue khiNtA3iNS AtluNlNh nedHgAA WIZ
distinguished by new FIRST ascents Of in
tefest and importance From that linn
tied point Of view the sport lost most ei
its excitement at the end of the great
campaigns against the Alguiles Of the
Mont Blanc group; and now. when the
rare news OF yet another first ascent does
reach as, only those whose knowledge
Of Alpine topography is minute have
ever heard the name OF the conquered
summit Nowadays, in fact, states the
London Field, the principal features
which distinguish the climbing season
lrom another are the quality OF the
weather and the number and nature Of
the accidents.
Whether the season now closing II not
closed Will like the seasons of 1901 and
1900, establish a new record IN t1o mat
| ter Of accident is n question that can
not be confidently answered until the
/ various Alpine clubs publish the statis-
/ tics which they 10 carefully compile.
/ but as far as the weather Is concerned.
no climber. IN whatever center he may
have climbed. is likely 20 wish TO reserve
hIs judgment Those must have very
long memories indeed who do not pro-
nounce the summer the worst that they
/ have ever known Execrable weather In
June was followed by execrable wealth
er In July Just at the end ofJuly things
began TO look little more promising.
/ A first ascent was chen made Of the
last remaining virgin summit in the
Y Lauterhrunnen valley; the club huts
were as oyercrowdtd as the Engadine
hotel, and some remarkable trayrraes,
including one OF the Weieshorn. we're
accomplished But the clouds reformed.
and those who fingered. hoping ior
fine August were Glrappoirtcd. a fort-
| nights fine weather IA three months was
/ one climbers estimate Of the season
which he had endured from bsRlnnine
10 end. and Il might be difficult to fro
anyone who could boast that his ex-
periouee had been more fortunate The
climbing season. from that point OF view.
was Ike the London ason or the sea
son al any OF the watering places
Concerning the accidents OF the season
II is. as has been said. a little difficult to
generaize until the actual figures are
presented. but one Specialization is pos
sible The accidents 30 serious noun
talneers. engaged upon serious expedi-
tions. were relatively few. wAile the ac-
cldens which being the direct result of
igrorarce or carelcasacss. ought really
10 be called by some other name. were
comparatively nBmer0us
The worst Of al The real climbing ae-
cldents Of tbs season cid not happen lr
the Alps bat on Scawif,. Pinnacle IN
part this distribution of the casualties
is TO doubt. 20 b. etirlhpted 10 the
weather There wtrs fewer accidents
than usual hrlortirg % fhg former class.
simply because Their was less climbing
In part. however 4 may be taken to
represent tendency that "a liRely 70 be-
eome permanent
The early climbers we're pioneers who
haa 10 learn the dangers of mountalneer-
Ing hy experience The modern climber
can tart with a fun knowledge Of them
acquired by Tie rxperienee II others. He
I knows or az any rate he may hire
i HAAaHH ANO NMMM-~N " NfAG AHNAAHNAEH
habltually fall. Al what hoursof the
day certain gullles are likely 20 be raked
by falling stones. under what conditions
snow slopes can b. safely trayersee. ard
many other things upon the knowledge
Of which the safety Of the party depends.
Such an accident. for example. Is hap
peued to Prof Tyndall. when be started
! an avalanche on che Piz Morteratsch. or
10 Mr. GosscIi. when he did the same
thing on the Haut de Cry. would be
most unlikely to occur 10 any modern
party with a guide skilled IN snow craft.
and this science OF snow craft. transmit
ted from one generation II climbers "a
i The aext, cannot fall 10 diminish the per
eeusaee Of oatastrophss among noun
talnesrs who know their business
'hs danger for them begins when. oui
81 bravada. thsg knowingly take anwar.
rantahle risks, after the fashion of the
late A. + Mummery Or the party fnai
fell from the Dent Blanche. IN such
] tragic circumstances. d few seasons ago
The accidents Of the other class. how
! syfr are more likely 10 increase than Il
diminish IN number a. the years 60 on
If only hecavse the Increasing facilities
of eoutinonts ,avcl bring SO many eu.
ergetie but 10, xperltuccd persons with,
I IN reach Of the high and steep and dan
? Feruus places, They want to be climber
without serving their apprenticeship 4
: the craft they insist upon undsglaEiul
{ tasks beyond their rstrength or they imp
{ y walk earelesaly In steep places. ans
50 fail. because Il has not occurred I,
them thar 4 Is necessary TO be careful.
tniaue Cosmetic.
I The cashew nut serses a unique pur