The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-05-21

Correspondence of the Indianapolis Journal.
NEW YORK, May 1S.-The day of school
and college closing comes apace. Be-
fore we quite realize it May will be gone
and June, with all its wealth of beauty and
its quotum of fair young graduates. as we'll
as of brides, will have arrived. No doubt
the brides have the deeper interest for the
world at large. There is a subtle fascina-
ton about a wedding that We none of US
ever outgrow. But in their own eyes the
graduates are far the more important, as
they are the more numerous, and in their
immediate worlds they fill a big place. If
later the dream of a career gives place 10
the all-absorbing sentiment that leads to
the altar, or if, in the crowding of the
events Of real life, the triumphs of these
happy years of study grow apparently
smaller and of less absorbing moment, the
fact in no way interferes with the present
enjoyment of work well done, with the
pride and JOY with which the real threshold
of life is passed and that entrance into
the world, which may mean so many things,
is made. AS matter of course, costumes
are important and there is much stir in
the sartorial world over muslins and tucks,
frills and fiounces. During what period of
our lives are we exempt from the demands
of dress? From infancy to old age its claims
make themselves felt and surely cannot be
overlooked when so important an occasion
as this final of the life of study is at
hand.
AS is commonly the case, gowns follow
| the general tendencies of prevailing fash
ions and are distinctive only as they are
| made of simple stuffs and trimmed in girl
| ish style. For the time wisdom and
| fashion are allied. No woman versed in
| social law would think of allowing her
| young daughter to make her exit from the
schoolroom in any but simple gown. and
| wise mothers ever careful that girls
| retain their youth as long as possible.
STYLES, therefore, are the prevailing ones,
| but materials and trimmings are simple in
effect, whatever the actual labor involved.
| Soft effects are those preferred before
| everything else, and such fabrics null
| and fine batiste or lawn are in every way
/ smarter than anything else while tucks,
| ShirringS, shocking and dainty embro1d-
cry are the preferred trimmings with wall
| enciennes lace, If any be used. 1t may be
| that the labor involved in the needlework
| is great and the cost in proportion, or all
the sewing may be done by hand. or,
| and sheer to outvalue any silk. but they
| remain simple in effect nevertheless and in
10 way detract from the truth of what
| / have written. Apparent cost, richness, all
/ that means maturity must be left for the
| brides The fair young graduate must APP
| pear to be simply gowned In whatever
| way love and affection may manage to en-
| nance the actual value of her costume.
SIMPLICITY THE RULE.
Not until she is arrayed in bridal spIen-
| dor and stands ready to take the vows that
| will transform her from girl to matron
must she wear costly lace, and the less
elaborate her graduation gown is kept the
| faS we'll <
will she be. Embroidery worked on to the
| material and in the raised French style is
| the very handsomest of all the trimmings
allowed and is really exquisite on the mus
| Inns that fine wonders they can
| support ii so we'll. Often it is used alone
| but il is very charming combined with
| Nalenciennes lace, and the two together
| give some delightful effects. One really
exquisite gown. to be worn by one of the
| graduates from a famous school, is made
| of sheereSt lawn, the skirt in alternating
panels OF embroidery and vertical tucks. the
| latter all outlined with frills of narrow
| Valenciennes lace. Below the panels is a
full fiounce and the bodice includes a yoke
that matches the skirt. with elbow sleeves
| that terminate in wide and flowing frills
| Numberless fiounces and bertha. effects are
| seen. and the full skirt in 1890 style that
| little more than touches. is much liked
| most tempting gown, TO be worn under
| the gown OF the college graduate is all Of
| null and is made in this fashion with a
deep bertha outlining the yoke of the waist
The skirt is finished with two embroidered
| founces, above which is a group OF hand
sewed tucks, and is shirred at the belt to
form hip yoke. The waist is the fashion
| able full blouse, that also shows a shrred
| yoke, with bertha that is laid in folds to
give round fchu effect and is edged with
a deep embroidered frill while the sleeves
| are very full puffs that terminate below
the elbows in frills that fall nearly TO the
wrists. AS has been remarked again and
again. many Of the girls of the present
generation are tall, even divnely so AS
a result. they are able to wear horizontal
trimmings with success and round and
round tucks are much seen. A really love-
ly gown, that is of the sort which APP
pears eminently simple yet means much Ia
bor shows a skirt tucked in groups from
the hounce very nearly 10 the belt and a
blouse that Is trimmed with frills and yoke
of the material embroidered I'm the delight
full openwork style that perfectly suits
present modes. The tucks are all of grad
uated widths and the embroidered founce
is some ten inches deep. The waist is the
simplest of blouses. but is tucked In three
groups below the scalloped yoke. that ex-
tends well over the shoulders. but is round
ed up at the front and includes voluminous
frlls With this gown is~a sash of radiun
| ribbon and very lovely IL is Fichus toe
| are much liked. Another gown of null
combines the full skirt with a full blouse
finished by fichu, that is all mass OF
| narrow frills lace-edged, and is trimmed or
the skirt with five wide ruches
each edged with lace In each and
frilled and lace trimmed. Silk. even the
simplest and softest. is held out of place
batiste gives a far daintier and more
charming effect. The ichu is a triumph
on the girl for whom IL was designed and
. | reveals chemisette and collar OF the fines,
| of tucks all hand sewed.
SOME PRINCESS EFFECTS.
There is some tendency toward princess
effects to be noted, but TO be successful such