Amador ledger., 1904-06-03
LETTER FROM ALASKA.

SKAGWAY, ALASKA, May 10, 1904.
Dear Ledger
Since writing last l have been tax
ing trip full of interest and excite
ment, to say nothing of danger for that
may be met at any time or place. On
JAM 24th l left Rampant in company
with the mail carrier The day was
clear and calm, mercury 210 below zero.
The mail was on sled IA inches wide
and feet long. drawn by six dogs.
through the kindness of the Supt. 1
was allowed to put my bundle on the
sled, as the mail up the river is very
light, only 80 lbs. this trip; the limit is
400 lbs. The"dogs are harnessed tan
dem, and guided by voice and whip,
and in keeping the trail the leading
dog shows an intelligence almost hu-
man. The mail had arrived from Nome
the night previous, and was delivered
to our carrier this morning Our route
was up the river and the trail we'll
trodden. Although 1 had recently
taken trips of 8 to % miles to get in
training. did not expect to travel as
fast as the dogs, and started two hours
in advance. Twelve miles above Ram
part l saw through break in the hills
the sun for the first time in sixtv-four
days. wore ordinary clothes and a
'parka, " which is IAN overall' denim
coat made like shirt and put on over
the head and reaching below the knees.
1t has fur cuffs and fur fringed hood
sewed to the collar, which can be drawn
over the cap and tied across the nose.
Footwear, ordinary socks, then Arctic
socks, "a kind of canvas shoe) then a
light pair of German socks coming
nearly to the knee, heavy pair over
these, and Indian moccasins outside.
The mail carrier was delayed in start
ing, and did not overtake me until
after dark, when 1 had reached the
cabin, u miles from Rampant, built a
flre and had supper under way, which
| consisted of bacon and beans, coffee.
| hot biscuits, butter, and canned fruit.
The driver put square tank holding
three gallons on the stove, and filed it
with ice from the hammocks on the
river. When this melted he put in six
| fish, size of a mackerel, six cups of rice
flour and quantity of cottolene. After
| cooking about an hour the mess was
poured into six washb basins. The dogs
watched intently, but showed no i'm
patience until the word was given,
when they sprang for the dishes and
devoured the contents, licking up every
bit until they looked ready to burst.
Then they rested II hours and did a
hard days work before being fed again.
The carrier and l each rolled in fur
robe, and slept like little angels on a
board mattress. Next morning could
easily locate each of the 900 muscles in
my body, but couldn't afford to be left,
or delay Uncle Sans mail. On the
evening of the Sd day we reached Fort
Hamlin, IS miles above Rampant.
where we met the carries who had ar
rived from Victor's, so miles further
on. Next morning each carrier doubled
back over his route, having exchanged
mails. l continued my journey with a
new acquaintance, my soreness all gone,
appetite immense, and able to enjoy
the novelty of the trip and the won-
drous beauty and grandeur of an Arctic
winter. The trail follows the river,
except few places where crossing a
narrow neck of land cuts off a long
detour. Just above Ft Hamlin we left
the hills and entered the Yukon Flats,
240 miles long and 20 to 60 wide. The
snow here often drifts over the trail so
that snow shoes are necessary to break
way for the dogs. We had to do this
six days. One night 1 lost my way
seven miles from camp, having walked
slowly instead of keeping up with the
sled. The snow had destroyed the
trail; it was 3O0 below zero, and 1 had
no food, blankets or matches, so felt
rather lonely" for time, but found
the trail in about an hour and took
care not to lose it again.
The morning 1 left Fort Yukon,
which is few miles north of the Arctic
Circle, saw Jack Carr, the mail car
rier, start with the mail and express
for the Koyukuk diggings, 25O miles
farther north. He makes 10 trips a
year, omitting May and October when
the trail is bad.
| At Circle City shortage of many
necessaries exist, which will cause dis
comfort but no actual suffering. No
supplies can reach here before July.
LAST fall low water closed navigation
very early, and many steamboats, and
barges are frozen in between Ft, Yukon
and Dawson. The goods will be re-
moved by teams as soon as the insur-
ance companies and custom house Of
ficials will release them, but the delays
of red tape cause great Inconvenience.
The boats will probably be crushed
when the ice breaks up in the river.
The hardest experience of the trip
was facing blizzard for three hours
at 460 below zero. The steam rising
| from the air holes in the ice along the
river on very cold day resembles q
confagration. The moon in the Arctic
regions is in sight about Is hours each
dav T had never heard this fact man.