The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-05-21

trimmed to match the body part. EN-
brofdered Persian va st sets consisting
OF neckbands cuffs and shoulder en-
placement carried out in soft colors are
more exclusive than the rather plebeian
cross stitched patterns Apropos of en-
broideries. all the new lingerie varieties
have an open pattern with the excep-
ton of the bToderie Anglaise and Ten
erife drawnwork. the preference being
for raised embroidery with slightly
open motifs to accentuate the design
This season valenciennes, point
de venise and Irish guipure are in the
vanguard. and the very coarsest laces
embroidered and combined with deli
cate chantilly or limerick seem to be
the aim and object of the leading cou-
turieres.
Among trimmings and garnitures of
the imme liate future there is none
which promises to have such a vogue
as white silk guipure. There is really
no material on which this lace may not
be applied with pleasing results. and it
is often used as a border or insertion
on a different kind of lace. its glossy.
silvery surface making it particularly
effective. Many of the new laces and
embroidery insertions have waved
edges which fit them beautifully for
the pointed and scalloped trimming of
summer gowns. On the dainty summer
costume even ruffies are arranged in
scallops, quite as they were season or
two ago..
Sleeves of the present are a complex
study in themselves. On tailor made
gowns. which. by the way. are now of
the thinnest crepe de chimes. they are
long, but on the smart Partisan after
noon toilets 1 notice that the sleeves
come just below the elbow and are
worn with long gloves. These elbow
sleeves and gloves will therefore be
feature of the dressier summer gowns
and the garden party frocks of muslin
and ethereal fabrics. Furthermore. the
familiar leg of mutton manche has re-
turned. and two of the leading Paris
houses have launched this shape with
great success. Needless to say. there
is some difference in shape, the new
pattern being cut very wide below the
shoulder. but narrow from elbow to
wrist. Then if you want to be smart
you must have a collar on your summer
cottons quite three inches high. This
may be light and transparent if you
like.
1t is impossible this season to say
that any one type of frock or shape of
hat or color is favored beyond all 9TH
ers. AT the Gazette, where Nine. Re
jane is to be seen in her new play. La
Montansier," she is appearing in lovely
GlSnlGGDIn century costumes winch are
being copied by Partisan elegantes and
for the time being are the craze. A
striking gown worn by this fascinating
actress has a Louis Quinze coat evolved
from black and white striped silk and
waistcoat of black banded in with pink
silk, which also makes the full skirt. A
cravat of lace tied with black velvet is
a pretty throat finish.
Parisians have become SO addicted to
tea drinking that the tea rooms at the
capital are sights to see these after
moons. 1t has become noised abroad
that it is the thing to be seen at the
sumptuous Elysee hotel tea room, and
to this place the Paris millions are
fiocking to see the stunningIy gowned
women and listen to the gay band
which plays popular music. Nearly all
the women noticed at the Elysee were
wearing their hair rolled over a coil at
one side of the back and finished with a
large, elaborate comb. st. Paul, who
was a man of the world before he be-
came a saint, voiced the opinion that
a woman's hair was her glory, and one
felt quite of the same mind after look
ing at the tresses of the women at the
tea room arranged in this pretty new
fashion. T.r CATHERINE TALBOT.