The Indianapolis journal., 1904-02-27

and more intricate with each new set or
models that is disclosed. Simplicity seems
not only dead. but forgotten. and elabora-
tion makes the watchword of the hour. To
the amount of labor there seems no limit
The number of materials combined in one
costume grows bigger and bigger. Intricate
handwork greets one on every side. When
one remembers how skilled labor must be
paid even the prices asked do not seem too
much, in spite of the fact that they sound
prohibitive to all but wealthy ears, and
one marvels how so many women seem able
to afford luxury such as appears TO have be-
come general rather than the exception.
What is known as English or jour en-
broidery, in reality only the familiar sort
in openwork Designs is much liked. Fine
shirrings and hand-sewed tucks are many.
Fancy stitchings freely used All
things and everything that means labcr and
cost are correct until one is tempted, some
times, to remember how in the height or
her luxury and extravaganza Rome fell and
to wonder when and how will the end come,
for surely things cannot go on, extrava-
gance cannot continue to grow as IL has
grown without some dire results that il
might be we'll for the feminine world to
forecast and to prevent to some extent at
least. We all love pretty gowns. What
true woman ever failed to feel an interest
in chiffons? But between good taste and
even rare beauty in dress and the mad lux
ury of the present is set wide, wide gulf.
Often results are not beautiful, designs are
killed by their overexcess. Some day
American women will wake up to the fact
that such costumes do not enhance their
charm, that they are lovelier by far when
less weighted with their clothes and when
that day comes not all the dictators of
Paris, not all the designers in France will
be able to prevent the rebellion that is
bound to occur. But ii is not my function
either to preach or TO forecast. i may feel,
and do feel, that the overluxury of the
moment is far from desirable, produces lit
tie real beauty, 1t nevertheless remains my
duty to tell you what is new and to leave
criticism and discrimination TO each indi-
vidual mind.
PLEASURE IN FINE FABRICS.
Fabrics are exquisite. So much we all
must admit and genuine pleasure is the
result, for 1t always means keen delight to
see colors well blended and textures that
take beautiful folds and lines. Whether
one buy silk at many dollars or cotton at
a few cents yard her aesthetic taste can
be gratiied, her natural craving for beauty
appeased in a truly legitimate way. A
walk through the shops is revelation, for
from the cheapest to the most costly, ma
terials seem all to have been designed with
an artists eye, but often the made-up
gown falls of its promise because of over
doing, for the reason that too many trim
mings have been used or certain funda-
mental laws have been overlooked AS
usual, Dame Fashion has had in mind the
tall and the slender, those ideal creatures
who are lovely let them wear what they
will, and apparently has forgotten those
who most need her aid. AS a result we
see many strange things and the need to be
wary is great. 1t is easy to be charmed
by the costume and TO forget how its ap-
pearance will change when IL is worn by
an individual of quite different type from
the one the designer had in mind. / have,
and, as is always the case, one can be well
dressed without violating any tenets of
good taste if only she buy carefully. Sc
lect with prudence and bear ever in mind
the axiom that only those things which suit
her own peculiar style are good for her let
others be as tempting, as intrinsically
beautiful as they may.
1t is TO be a season of all soft things
To our eyes nothing else seems possible for
the many shirrings, the tucks and the gem
eral fullnesS, yet how completely that fact
in Itself shows the advancement we have
| made. We are copying 1880 modes A glance
! at any portrait of that period reveals that
iact, put IN 1871 silks stood alone and they
knew nothing of such lovely creations as
/ chiffon velvet, crepe voile and a host of
others that are household words to-day
| One of the prettiest gowns I have been able
| to see is of the new chiffon wolfe and IS
woven in a tiny check of brown and white.
/ The skirt is soft and full, as indeed are
nearly all the new ones, and is shirred be-
/ low shallow yoke of brown silk This
! yoke is scalloped in groups of two with
plain spaces between and down the center
| front in a narrow band of silk scalloped to
/ match at each edge. Round the foot of the
! skirt is gathered fi0Ence with above il a
wide full puff that droops over the heading.
! The blouse is a full one with yoke of lace
and silk and the wide puffed sleeves are
finished with deep falls of finer lace, while
the crushed belt or girdle is of taffeta held
by clasp in dull gold.
A WARM WEATHER COSTUME.
A second costume, designed for warm
weather visiting, is of pale blue crepe dc
chine and also is much shirred but shows
four bands of spangled trimming, two al
the front. two at the back that extend from
belt to hem and serve 10 give desirable lines
The blouse is full, soft one below a yoke
of exquisite lace. enriched with naiI-heads
Of turquoise and pearl with steel spangles
that harmonize with the skirt trimming
! without being a match. At the waist is q
belt of blue chiffon velvet held by wide
| buckle of cut steel set with pearls and tur.
| quoises While the sleeves are huge and
| shirred TO form two wide puffs each below
! which are flare cuffs finished with the falls
| of lace without which no really handsome
costume is complete. The long perpendcu
| lar lines on the skirt given by the bands o
passementerie, are peculiarly worthy oi
note and go 10 show how already there /:
| an effort being made TO get away from the
broad and rotund effect of the round-and
round shirring and tucks. Full the skirt
| must be, is the decree of the autocrats bu
| some of the folk who wear the gowns have
| minds and eyes with which they think anC
| see, with the result that these long line:
/ have already appeared and just what is II
| the future none can tell as yet. One leading
/ importer assured me to-day that he saw
nothing else in view. but another showed ms
some plain, much-ilared models trimmed II
novel ways. saying: MANY women simpl,
won't wear the full ones and, while W.
| recognize that they are in best style
we find il necessary TO have something L
| meet the other demand"
1t has been said again and again that We
a re TO have a season OF color and tina
white Is on the wane, but / see exquisitel,
beautiful white gowns and. in my Owl
judgment, they will be many although Their
! will cOubtipSs he more color than was tn