davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-09

reason, for inexpensive laces, silks,
velvets and satins can be moulded into
charming pictures which gaslight will
further glorify.
These modes will doubtless reign for
all winter occasions which call for
elaborate dress. such as the Horse
Show, the theater receptions, etc,
though in all probability the present
eccentricity of some of the picturesque
hats will be much modified
In every wear there is a pleasant re-
lationship between the new things and
late styles. Some Of the long-coat
tailor gowns are reminiscent of certain
summer effects. Elton jackets in vary
ing lengths and cuts still abound. and.
despite its unbecoming tendency, the
instep-length skirt still holds its own.
The Fashion in Coats.
Coats are short and long, loose. half
fitted and tight-fitting, and with the
various sorts of neck finish appropri-
ate to each style. In fact, it has never
seemed more possible TO be suited in
the matter of a first autumn wrap,
and SO varied are the ready-made
styles that the old prejudice against
the shop garment seems to have pass
ed away
For knock-about autumn use and
travelling. excellent and serviceab BILE
coats are in the form of newmarkets
or ulsters. These are made in stout but
lightweight cheviots, tweeds, serges
and rain-pro cloths. with some OF the
models showing contrasting pipings at
the seams. and the majority, turnover
velvet collars.
Two Smart Models.
1.-TWO smart models are in new and
approved cuts and textures. The coat
a. newmarket gtvle is in graV and
black diagonal. with only tailor sticn-
ing and large black bone buttons for
ornament. Il is double breasted with
wide revers and an odd method en-
pioyed In the attachment OF the skirt
which shows a down-turned scallop-
ing in the hip seam. The reversible
storm collar is cut very high, and the
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-09

The frame is of black wood, highly
lacquered. Another japanese effect
shows a screen which may be either
single, double, triple or quadruple, in
lacquered wood. five feet high. In
stead of the embroidered or painted
panelings there is a severe stretch of
dull brown cloth, and along the tor
as are used for picture mouldings.
of the frame are fastened hooks such
From these hooks are suspended the
japanese parchment panels, which
just now are enjoying a particular
vogue.
For college girls and boys and thu
debutante's room come inexpensive
screens in bamboo or rattan with mat
ting panels. These are to be crisis
crossed with narrow ribbons, and fur
nish a background for photographs
and souvenirs.
For the dining room a. popular. in
expensive screen is built on Dutch
lines. The frame follows the lines of
mission furniture. and the panel is of
burlap or tapestry to match the hang
ings in the room, while the space be-
tween the frame and the top of the
panel is given over to Delft tiles on
plaques.
The favorite screen for a young
bachelors apartment shows a burlap
panel to within nine or twelve inches
of the top, where are inset pictures or
brass tablets. If the man goes in for
sports, there may be hunting, riding
or yachting scenes. If he is fresh from
college, a row of college girls-Har-
ward. Yale or Princeton-is often
used. If the brass tablets are employ
ed, they set forth some toast suitable
to the bachelors tastes. Two figures
of men, smoking, carry the sugges-
tive line, Better to smoke here than
hereafter" The navy man has the
sailors toast. the society man. who
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-09
BY MARY DEAN.

bishop sleeves have wide back
cuffs.
A coat of checked blue and white
English cloth is in one-piece ulster
form White braid stylishly pipes the
seams of this. and the little turnover
collar and wide cuffs are of plain blue
velvet.
A number of the dressier short
coats are made extravagantly gay with
pipings of velvet applications, lace EN-
brOideries and fancy buttons. In
form these coats and the longer loose
coats vary little from the summer
styles in pongee, silk and lace. ex-
cept that shoulder seams are shorter
sleeves are more VOluminous than
ever, and the looseness of the gar
ment more than ever concealing. For
women whose ages makes these youth
full and dressy styles a little too gay
there are effective coats suggesting
NANTES.
CharIningIy Middle Aged.
A clever and varied cut of the coat
and sleeves in one accompiishes this
effect, and the result is smart, COM
Portable, and in some cases charming
ly middle-aged. A becoming feature
with d number of such coats, and
others of definite Elton shape or sug-
gestion, is the new three-quarter
length sleeves, from under which
white quillings or the elaborate gown
sleeves emerge.
Evening coats for the mufling of
airy or light gowns are largely three
quarter length and loose to the point
Of eXaggeration. The immensely wide
sleeves Of these loop over the arms in
many bewildering ways, and so much
are the old forms admired that a
number of the fancy wraps show
antiquated dolman-like coquetries
One such opera cloak in pale blue
silk is trimmed with puffs of blue
mousseline and a neck garniture of
crimson crush roses. Another cloak
on the same order is of pink and blue
brocade with blue taffeta puffs and
pink roses.
The French Impression.
The influence Of the Louis epochs
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-09

for fifteen minutes of absolute relaxa-
ton OF muscles and nerves, taken in
the ladies' parlor.
DON'T wear a new pair Of shoes
on a shopping excursion. And espe-
cially, don't wear shoes with very
high heels. unless you are thoroughly
accustomed to wearing Louis Quinze
shoes. The sole Of the foot is g. nerve
center. and nothing will react more
quickly on nerves and temper than
pain in the feet. At one of the big
department stores recently a woman
who was wearing a new pair OF shoes
went TO the parlor and removed the
shoes, intending 10 rest her feet. Fiji
teen minutes. half an hour, an hour
passed. and the swelling OF her feet
was not reduced, She was finally COM
PEELED 70 have the maid In attendance
telephone to her home and instruct
her daughter to bring an easy pair OF
shoes down town for her to wear
home.
DON'T tell a clerk you will come
back after your package and change
and then hurry away IN search OF an.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-09
SAVANNAH MORNING NEWS: SUNDAY OCTOBER O. 1904

figure eight on the nape Of the neck.
This figure eight should not extend
below the junction of the collar with
the gown.
For the girl who requires hight, and
yet needs softening lines about her
face, the English hairdressers offer a
very pretty treatment of the pompa-
dour. 1t is first Marcelled all around
the front in rather a deep puff, the
center of which is drawn slightly down
on the forehead and the sides huffing
out softly over the ears. This first
row Of puffing is held in place by very
plain real tortoise-shell combs, from
which rises like plateau a second and
smaller puff of Marching, in the
heart of which the back hair, Mar
celled from the nape Of the neck up, is
drawn in fiat coil and finished with
butterfly bow, which does not stand up
stiffiy, but seems to cling to the hair.
This may be made of ribbon to match
the frock, or of chiffon, or, better still,
it may be one Of the exquisite lace but
terfiies offered in all the shops.
A woman who has harsh lines in the
face should study the new transforma-
tons which are in reality false pom
padours on very light net, which come
to match almost every shade of hair.
If properly adjusted they cannot be
detected, but they are by no means in
expensive. Part of the transformation
is waved in pompadour style, but all
around the brow are inserted soft,
wavy little curls, which look for all
the world like old-fashoned spit chrls,
made fluffy.
All the English and French hair
dressers are curling the front strands
of hair above the forehead, but they
have sworn to protect the world femi-
nine from the return of the straight
English bang.
Jet combs and hair pins, plain and
carved. are enjoying something of a
vogue. The newest shell pins are not
finished with fiat carved surface, but
show a knob-like decoration which has
been used on barettes and combs. The
effect of knobs sticking out all over
the head does not appeal to the woman
who likes the smoothly coiffed head, so
the fancy will hardly last
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-09
Fall Styles Show Plain Tailor
Effects or Lovely FrivoIifies
The Two Styles Differ Widely Which
TO Choose.

There are two styles Of autumn
dress so widely differing that the wo-
man OF undecided taste is at a loss
which to choose.
Early in the season some plain tailor
effects were introduced. and these are
now running neck and neck in the race
with the lovely frivolities borrowed
Each species has it's own powerful
adherents, but the sensible woman
has learned to take the opinion only
of her mirror, which never advises
wrongly. Then, as may be plainly
seen, the more elaborate styles are
for other materials and occasions than
the simple tailor effects call for. Both
have their places. and in choosing a
becoming get-up the only other thing
to be considered is when and where
it is to be worn.
A Season of Rich Costumes.
Beginning with the splendors of the
new season, there is no doubt but that
the winter is to inaugurate dress ma
terials and cuts more magnificent than
ever. The Louis street effects call not
only for the richest textures. but for
accessories as fine and always match
ing in character, which make such
styles possible only to the few.
The headgear which is to accom-
pany these dashing coats, wide cuffed
and royalty skirted. seem to many wo-
men to represent the need of a COM
Portable income in themselves. Made
of velvet, shirred over wire frames,
many of the great hats are heavy with
plumes, jeweled ornaments and large,
eccentric flowers. And these points,
together with the rolling brims and
incredibly high crowns, create pic
ture which seems indeed to have come
down from a long dead century.
The Louis styles.
In evening costumes the Louis
styles are much more amenable to
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-09

is felt in the majority of the evening
color combinations, and Trianon. An
toinette and Montespan are thrilling
names connected with the slightest
trihe.
For outdoor day wear the usual au-
tumn colorings have taken on an al
most savage splendor. The shades are
too numerous to count and too subtle
to define, but reddish browns and
brownish reds are to be i'm vogue. Ma
hogany and onion skin are two names
applied to rich brown-red tints seen in
French cloths almost as fine as satin,
and which the new highly FURNISHED
velvets trim magnificently. Black
velvet, always the elegant privilege of
elderly women, will once more have
a special vogue for gowns, short man
ties and long cloaks. But jet will not
trim it as formerly. but rather Dor
ders of suitable and rich fur, silk
braids and quiet passementeries of
many sorts.
For Young Women.
For younger women velvet will
more often be combined with thin
French cloth than used alone, though
all-velvet gowns, I'm picturesque and
striking models will be seen. New
shades for these are myrtle and lizard
green. and several tints of violet
| known under the more novel name of
amethyst.
Buttons which very closely initiate
the precious gem of that name are
delightful features of the amethyst
gowns. and some glass set ones in
! copper tones-used on materials in the
same shade-seem at q first glance to
be vertable Montana sapphires.
With II all. dress is still divided in
character. II Is magnificent and ex-
cessively plain.
Novel Effects in Robe Fronts.
The robe fronts OF the smarter
/ skirts admit of many novel effects, one
of which Is TO have the entire apron
In box pleats Of the gown trimming
A gown so arranged is of amethyst
yelling and velvet. The back and sides
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-09

I of the skirt are cut full and fitted
| close at the hips; the bottom is made
| to fare with a light wire and Is trim
med with deep folds of the velvet be-
! tween tucks the same width. The bod
| ice is very closely adjusted, for the
waists of smart gowns no longer
| blouse in the least degree. Velvet
also decks 1t appropriately, showing in
Il little yoke Of clerical cut and in
| handsome girdle finished with silk tas-
sells. A narrow vest and falls for the
elbow-puffed sleeves are OF white
| blonde with amethyst velvet disks. The
hat is of amethyst velvet and ostrich
| feathers.
In sharp contrast to this coquettish
toilette is a severely plain tailor gown
of iron-gray mems cloth. The dapper
little coat shows late influence IN the
cut of the sleeves, which are of al
most masculine snugness. The coat is
double breasted and the rding-habit-
like skirt has narrow apron and
strapped seams.
Mems Cloth in Vogue.
Mems cloth, 1t would appear, is to
have quite vogue for plain costumes
this winter. The best tailors show a
decided intention to exploit the warm
and durable materials, which, when In
best imported shape, have everlasting
qualities.
Patterns showing dim stripes are
much admired and there are some
checks speakingly conspicuous, which
go under the odd title of King Ed
ward checks. In iron-grays, blues,
browns and violets these are set forth
for tailor gowns in long and short coat
models.
But there is one very distinctive
thing about the new tailor costumes.
The Innings match the textures per-
fectly in color. for the old harlequin
contrasts are now considered very bad
taste.
Many of the evening coats likewise
show this sensible arrangement, which
gives the garment a very swagger air.
and doubtless all coats will in time
adopt it. The white satin Innings so
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-09

ing TO the fancy and the purse of the
shopper.
Another belt is built Of medaIlions
set together almost solidly with
small links. These are about an inch
and half deep. and are Of enameIed
silver, the enameling to match the
gown, blue with a navy blue dress,
hunters green with the green frock,
etc.
The third design was exceedingly
popular among bellies of twenty-five
or thirty years ago. This shows sill
yer daisies In filigree with solid gold
centers. the daisies being connected
by silver links. Sometimes the daisy
is Of oxidized silver with jeweled
centers, or gold with gems. Belts
built of gold medallions are exceed
ingly effective when worn with white
cloth gowns, and vanity bags and
change purses in gold match them
perfectly.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-09

day of shopping a period of torture
can all be traced to the same cause.
Neither should breakfast be swal-
lowed too hastily, because an unmas-
ticated undigested mass in the stom-
ach will ferment under the combined
influence of excitement, exertion and
the polluted air incidental to shop
ping excursion. All the modern
stores are equipped with soda water
fountains or lunch counters, where
bouillon or clam broth can be pur-
chased for a song, and when a woman
begins to feel a sense of "goneness"
at the pit of her stomach it will pay
her to stop for a hot nourishing drink.
She will go back to her task strength
ened and refreshed. If she is out for
the entire day. she should stop at
noon not only for a light lunch, but
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-09
Screens Galore for
First Chill DAYS.

The fall days with their unexpected
chills and draughts make a woman's
thoughts turn lovingly towards
screens, and, of a truth, she will find
the screens this season more tempt-
ing than ever. for they come to match
the furnishings of every ROOM from
the simplest boudoir to the most elab-
crate of drawing rooms.
The most popular screen for present
use is called by dealers the three
quarter size. and IT is a trife over
three feet high. admirably planned to
stand behind a chair or in front of an
open window. They are also much
used for big fireplaces. when no blaze
is burning therein.
The most striking Of the Japanese
screens, either in single wings. don.
BILE, triple or quadruple, in full hight
or three-quarter, is the uncut velvet
hand-painted in Japanese scenes. The
frame of Japanese wood in colorines
which tone perfectly with the velvet
Is six or seven inches in width and
beautifully carved and polished. A
single screen In uncut velvet cannot
he bought for less than SS7. so at am
Oriental importing house. But wo-
man who already has a suitable frame
can buy the hand-palnted panels ana
have them set into her own frame al
a much more reasonable figure.
In the heavily embroidered japanese
satin panels the fad of the hour Is an
enormous rooster done I'm natural
colorings with beaded eye. One of
the most expensive triple screens Of
fered by AN importer shows a rooster
larger than life size. and holding a
different position on each one OF the
panels.
A superb single screen for use be-
fore a fireplace shows black uncut
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-09
Up-tO-Date Couture
Is a Compromise.
The Low Knot Has Not Entirely Sup.
planted the Pompadour.

The couture is the puzzle of the
hour to the feminine mind. Madam
la Mode has issued her edict that the
pompadour with the rat must go, save
for the grande dame with her white
hair. patrician face and velvet gown
But for once the feminine world re-
bells.
The pompadour. properly dressed
gives a girl an air OF distinction
Very few faces can stand hair de-
murely parted in the middle and
, knotted low on the nape of the neck.
As a result the really clever girl works
out a compromise between the high
dressed hair and the low. while the
girl who does not know how to do the
correct thing clings to her pompadour
in the front and drops her back hair
on the nape of her neck-a combina-
ton which is startling. to say the
least, and leaves an ugly space be-
tween the pompadour and knot
One of the most pleasing compro-
misses shows the rat removed from
the pompadour and the front hair Mar
celled just as IL the rat were to be
used. 1t is then parted on the side
lana, Dy the way, neither the right
nor the left side is obligatory; a girl
must study her face before deciding
where to place the part), and then the
hair is drawn back lightly and knot
ted on the nape ~ the neck, but not
too low.
Sometimes no part appears but the
pompadour, minus the rat. is waved I'm
three puffs. These puffs are not tight.
but the finger or comb is run through
them 70 secure light fluffy waved
effect. One pun is drawn down
slightly over the forehead, and the
other two run back from the temples
or, II the face needs a different treat
ment, the three puffs run around the
brow. like n frame. fiuffed and waved
so that they practically overlap each
other With this dressing of the pom-
padour the hair may be worn in A
fat figure eight on top Of the head. or
the waving may continue over the
crown and back OF the head and be
caught IN with the back hair In a
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-09

other bargain. Unless you are an ex-
ceptional woman. you will forget ole
of these return trips before the day IS
over. Aisle directors are bothered TO
death by women who forget wh'cn
clerk they dealt with. and who insist
that package and change are being
withheld. Sometimes they leave d
package and change to be called for
In one store and claim it in another.
And they are thoroughly indignant if
the girl does not recall their faces and
turn over their package without some
form of identification.
Another danger which the careless
shopper runs in this respect is having
her package and change claimed by
an INSCRIPTIONS woman, who has been
watching the purchase and noted the
article and the amount of money paid
the clerk, and who claims the package
and change by Identification, while its
rightful owner is off, hanging over
bargains.
DON'T ask for samples on Satur-
day or during the busiest hours of
the day. If samples you must have,
try to collect them before ten or ten
thirty a m. BY so doing you will
get better attention from the clerks,
because they are not missing sales as
they will be later in the day. Many
OF the more exclusive shops confine
the giving out of samples to the early
morning hours.
DO have a little patience with the
clerks. If you are a quick witted,
well-educated woman, trained to move
and act quickly, just bear in mind that
the girl who draws six dollars a week
does not POSSESS sixty dollar men
tality; if she did. she would not be
standing behind a counter
Do plan your shopping as SYSTEM
atlcally as you can. II you are going
down town to match a dress with
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-09
"DO'S" AND "DON'TS"
FOR BUSY SHOPPERS.

DO stop at home long enough to
eat a nutritious breakfast. Chasing
bargain sales on an empty stomach is
the surest way of landing finally in
the sick room of department store.
The physician and the nurse who pre-
side over the emergency room in a
department store state that ninety
nine cases out of a hundred which
come under their care can be traced
directly TO shopping on an empty
stomach. Sick headaches. nausea and
many trining ailments which make the
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-09
A Friend In Need.

Do YOU know Of anyone suffering
with consumption? Then tell them
without delay that DR.. Bosehee's Ger
man Syrup will cure them--snd you
will be a friend I'm need. German
Syrup ts a reliable specific for the cure
OF consumption. II has been making
marvellous cures Of consumption
throughout the world for forty years.
Group. coughs, colds, bronchitis and
all throat and lung troubles are speed
fly cured by German Syrup. Trial bot
tie. Csc. Big bottle. sc. A. all drug
gists. knights Pharmacy
and they are plain or jeweled, accord
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-09

velvet, painted in ombre hollyhocks
is known to go in for cotillons and
things of that sort. has Gibson heads
with appropriate toasts to women.
These screens are really characters
tic and always give pleasure to their
owners.
For a woInan's boudoir there is
nothing prettier than a frame to match
the woodwork of the room or its fur
niture, with panels of cretonne to
match the hangings.
For the Louis room there comes a
velour screen showing Louis XIV.
scenes in soft Old World colorings.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-09

-Roxley (coldly)-"And what are
your prospects, may ask?" Jack
Hansom-"Pardon me, sir. I merely
love your daughter. I have not been
so mercenary as to look you up in
Bradstreet's, and, therefore, I cannot
answer your question. philadelphia
Press.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-09

Say, old fellow, I'm in a big rush
with this. Won't you take the girls
place at the typewriter while she goes
to lunch?" but I don't know this
keyboard" "oh. that'll be all right
This is an illinois, French Canadian
dialect poem I'm working on. Judge.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-09

Yes, his wife calls him down every
day." But she's such a frail, meek
looking little woman. and he's such a
big brute of fellow" Il know She
calls him down to breakfast, after she's
got UP and prepared it, while he's de-
Gliding whether he'll go to sleep again
or not. "-Chicago Record-Herald.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-09

Satnola is a new discovery, guar
anteed. and money refunded IL II fails
TO remove the worst case Of Freoklee,
Pimples Tan, Sallowness, Liver spots.
Blackheads, or any skin eruption, In
20 days. Leaves the skin clear. soft.
healthy and restores the beauty of
youth. Thousands testify to the mer-
its Of Satinola. Price SOC and $500 by
leading druggists or mail.
Prepared only by
National Toilet CO., Paris, Tenn.
Sold IN Savannah by all leading
druggists.