New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1904-07-13
FULL SKIRTS FOR FAIL
Fashion AutocrQts Sag There viii
Be No Other Kind.

The latest advtces from Paris TO show that
the picturesque 1880 modes have nearly had their
day The fashions OF the First Ernpire-wheu
Josephine set the pace in extravaga1t dressnE-are
10 nave the next run. il is said. while Directoire
fashions Of the period Immediately preceding the
First Empire viii also De in vogue
These advices being Interpreted mean for one
thing that skirts be wider than ever. There
may have been hesitation and uncertainty in some
quarters during the manufacture Of the skirts
prevalent for the spring and summer" says
'Crerand's Cloak Journal and. in consequence
We have had clingng skirts and haIf-cngtng skirts
and full skirts and extra full skirts; in fact all
kinds to suit tastes. from the most conservative
to the bizarre But now. according the
law formulated by the smartest French dress
makers il is to be reign of the full skirt, unn1-
tied and unrestricted The very latest Paquin model
measures eight yards around the hem-it is TO be
Paquin's season of triumph after his persistent
maintenance OF full skirted ideas through several
seasons of carping doubt and adverse criticism
Where the quality of the material will permit
the peats of the new skirt run from point few
inches below the waist to the hem. Although some
hip yokes Will be seen-particularly those skirts
which form part of more or less preteutious
cOstume-the stitched pIeat from waist about
seven inches at the front and four at the back is
the preferred method. The pleats from this point
must be free and flowing. pressed into position in
the first stages Of their making, but thereafter
showing no sign Of constraint. In this they differ
widely from the cid klited skirt where tape and
what not held the pleuts in position the under
side. The skirt may be oId-fIshoned a it
pIeases and thereby the better conform 70 the new
models. There IS a fancy for the full skirt
slightly gored the TOD and then plcated in mar
row. close rleats into the WastbaUd. The front IS
box Qleated the sides side pleated and the back
laid in a double box pleat. These pleats may be
stitched for three inches down from the top
and FOR the rest OF the skirt il simply goes its
in full and flowing lines 10 the hem
broken by little rutfles hardly wider than ruche.
at the knee line and one Just
additional fulness extra ruffe or founce
Is in the knees and the iointure covered by
the little ruffie spoken OF above
Another detail which comes from ttrts t'IIsll'
the fall fashions is that close pleatS VIII nave pre-
cedenCe over shirrs and gathers both they relate
10 skirts. waists and wraps. With the tendency
The makeup OF garments the pleats seem 'At Dc
ter method OF adjustment than do the ShlrrS
though sElrrs IN conjunction with plt31s ~
doubtless he used to some extent in gowns OF
soft fine fabrics.
Bcl.s have come in for careful consideration ami
revision Of style The tendency IS toward mar
serve the purpose Of 4 belt as tr viii be carefully
rttcd and trimmed in unison with the SUIT or cos
tune. thus making separate belt 4 supernulIy
There a little conflict and doubt a. 10 the sur
vivaI 81 the girdie. and compromise mas oteu
effected In the half girdle with little point about
two and a half inches high At the back and a
sr front. The high straight ciuCtUre has ueeh
found be generally unoecominE
for bodiceS. the backs are TO ne highly ornate
more trimmed, in fact, than the fronts me sur
pCe effect Is gaining ground and appears upside
down IN the backs OF some OF the advance uoce4S.
The is n the waist line. and the lap or the sur
small buttons appear hold the material II place
Sleeves. ike the skirts, are growing WIDER ana
win be ali sleeves with tho bodice proper hardly
than q connecting INK