Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-02-10
is THE EYE OF INDIA
Poetic Name Given to the
City Of Bombay.
THE OLD GRAY CASTLE
WAS A FoRMIDABLE DEFENSE AT
ONE TIME.
Second Largest Place in India-Arms
and Ammunition Excluded
Guarding Against Mutiny.
BY WILLIAM E. CURTIS

Special Correspondents Of The Evening Star and
Chicago Record Herald.
BOMBAY, January o. 1904.
The Eye OF India, as Bombay Is called,
sits on an island facing the Arabian sea on
one side and large bay on the other, but
the bay Is quite shallow, except where chan
nels have been dredged to the docks. The
scenery Is not particularly fine. Low hills
rise in semi-circle from the horizon, half
concealed by curtain of mist, and a few
green islands scattered about promiscuous-
ly are occupied by hospitals, military bar
racks. villas and plantations. The harbor
is not impressive. 1t is not worth deserip-
ton, but the pile of buildings which rises
on the city side as the steamer approaches
the dock is imposing. and picturesque
mingling of oriental and European archi-
lecture. Indeed do not know of any city
that presents Drawer front to those who
arrive by sea.
At the upper end, which you see first is a
group of five-story apartment houses, with
oriental balconies and colonnades. Then
comes a monstrous new hotel. Beside the
hotel rise the buildings Of the yacht club
hospitable association of Englishmen. to
which natives, no matter how great and
good they may be, are never admitted. They
own an apartment house for gentlemen.
and are so hospitable that a bachelor trav-
|! eler can secure quarters there without diff
Guilty If he brings letter of introduction
to some member.
/ Formidable at One Time.
Next toward the docks comes an old cas-
tie whose gray and lichened covered walls
are striking contrast to the newer build
ings that surround it and inclose a consid-
cradle area which by courtesy is called
fort 1t was a formidable defense at one
tnna md fIa
history, but is obsolete now. The walls are
of heavy masonry. but a shot from a mod
ern gun would shatter them. They incIose
the military headquarters of the Bombay
Indian gazetteer. the cathedral of this do
cese. barracks for the garrison. an arse
nal magazines and other military build
ings and a palatial sailors home. one Of
the finest and largest institutions of the
kind in the world. which Is supported by
contributions from the various shipping
companies that patronize this place. Here
also are several machine shops, factories
and warehouses which contain vast stores
of war material of every sort sufficient to
equip an army at fortnight's notice.
About twelve hundred men are constantly
employed in the arsenal and shops making
and repairing military arms and equip
ments. There Is museum of ancient
weapons, and many which were captured
from the natives in the early days of midas
occupation are quite curious; and here also
the visitor will have his first view of one
of the greatest wonders Of nature. banyan
tree, which drops its branches to take root
in the soil beneath its overspreading
boushs. But you must walt until you get
to Calcutta before you can see the best
specimens. :. sr-.. -.--e.. - 49,
Bombay is not fortified. except by. few
guns behind some earthworks at the en-
trance of the harbor. but 1t must be II the
Russians secure port upon the Arabian
sea; not only Bombay. but the entire west
coast of India. The only protection for the
city now is small fleet of battle ships,
monitors and gun boats that lie In the har-
Dor. and there are usually several visiting
men-of-war at the anchorage
Second Largest City.
Bombay is the second city in population in
India, Calcutta standing first on the list;
with 100000 people. and If you will take
your map for moment you will see that
the two cities lie in almost the same Iati-
tude. one on either side of the peninsula
called India-Bombay at the top of the
Arabian Sea and Calcutta at the top Of the
Bay of Bengal. BY the census of 1891 Bonn
bay had s21 764 population. By the census
OF 1901 the total was 776,O06. the decrease of
40. 75S being attributed to the mortality by
the plague in 1900 and 1901. 1t is the most
enterprfsing, the most modern, the most
active, the richest and the most prosperous
city in India. More than 90 per cent of
travellers who enter and leave the country
pass over the docks, and more than half the
foreign commerce of the country goes
through its custom house. 1t is by all odds
the finest city between modern Cairo and
San Francisco, and its commercial and in
dustrial interests exceed that of any other
The arrangements for landing passengers
are admirable. All our baggage was mark
ed with numbers on the ship corresponding
to that of our declaration to the collector
of customs. The steamer anchored out
about a quarter of mile from a fine cover
ed pier. The baggage, even our small pieces
was taken ashore on one launch and after
while we followed it on another Upon
reaching the dock we passed up a long
aisle to where the deputy collectors Were
seated behind their desks. AS we gave our
names they looked through the bundle Of
declarations and finding the proper one
told US that we would have to pay a duty of
5 per cent upon the typewriter and our
kodaks, and that a receipt and certificate
would be furnished by which we could re-
cover the money at any port by which we
left India Nothing else was taxed, although
noticed that nearly every passenger had
to pay on something else. There is only one
rate of duty-5 per cent ad valorem upon
everything--jewelry, furniture, machinery,
all pay the same which sImplified the trans
action.
Guarding Against Mutiny.
But the importation of arms and ammu-
milton is strictly prohibited and every gun.
pistol and cartridge is confscated in the
good evidence that he is an officer of the
army or navy and that they are the tools
of his trade, or has permit issued by the
proper authority. This precaution is in
tended to anticipate any conspiracy similar
to- that which led to the great mutiny of
1857. The natives are not allowed to carry
guns even to own them, and every gun
or other weapon found in the hands OF
native is coffiscated unless he has per-
init. And as an additional precaution the
rifles issued to the native regiments in the
army have range of only twelve hum
dred yards. while those issued to the white
regiments will kill at LOCO yards, thus CIV
ing the latter important advantage in
case of an Instruction.
After having interviewed the deputy COL
lector we were admitted to the great pen
or corral in the middle of the pier, which
is inclosed by high fence. and there found
all our luggage piled up together on
bench. And all the trunks and bags and
baskets from the ship were similarly as
sorted, according to the numbers they bore.
We were not asked to open anything. none
of our packages was examined, the decla-
ration of passengers being accepted as
truthful and final unless the inspectors
have reason to believe or suspect decep-
ton. Gangs OF coolies in livery each wear
ing a brass tag with his number, stood by