Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-07-30

hat of red CHIP, trimmed solely with a
large rcd bird, tops the whole correctly.
Reverting to lines, all things said and
done, il is really the set of the costume
which gives value to any bit of it. 1t may
be of precious stuffs, but If it does not fit
and fall in Just the right way it might as
well be an Indian blanket. with hole for
the head. Most often the set has to do
with the cut and make, for the average
form can be made pass4ble with correct
dreSSmakng. But the simmer the figure
the more desirable the effect, for slimness
is the order of the day. some of the shirred,
puffed and fiounced feats seeming to re-
quire little more than the skeleton to set
them off. Upon such figures, if the Shout
ders are square and the chest held high,
the frou-frou French CONNECTIONS fall with
fascinating grace. and with many devices
to set off slim backs and supple waist lines.
Etruscan Red Yelling.
A toilet whose back is so beautiful that
the onlooker is inclined to wish it might
never turn, is composed of etruscan red
yelling, with pleated volants of the same
and undersleeves of frilIed white null A
novelty with the founces-that is, q nov
city in those days, for pleated frills of this
sort were worn no longer ago than the sew
enties-is that they are held tight top and
bottom with a bias of the wolfe. On the
bodice narrower volant than is used on
the skirt forms an effective band trimming
Folding at the middle of the back and at
the sleeve tops into squares, it is put on
the adjusted waist to effect a bolero look
and lengthen the shoulders.
Another gown made on a somewhat SINH
lar model was of sapphire matte" a new
wool texture, with band trimming of blue
galoon edged with gold braid
But in the way of garniture the puff rep
resents the top notches of fashion, though
in these days it is a scant affair and put
on to lie much like a fiat band Variations
IA NIT fril
treatments of the edges, though the puff
sewed on at the extreme edge is most seen
Black and white dresses of chiffon cloth all
in pUffs are swagger freaks. and If they are
the anguish of the stout woman they are
the joy of the slim one. The soft material
is shirred over cords, the smaller putting
forming shoulder and hip yokes. and the
deep shaping the skirt lower down. When
well made and worn by the right sylph
such frocks miracles of grace, for the
skirts are invariably trained and the sleeves
bouquets of rufies.
For Smart Uses.
But as to that, everything is graceful
this summer, for despite the vogue of the
short skirt the long and clinging thing is
preferred for really smart use. Diaphanous
gowns. streaming behind like comets, fut-
ter with ruffies and billow with lace, the
headgear accompanying them taking on the
same fete-like loneliness Embroideries for
gowns of thicker textures are rarely beau
tiful and some of the collars alone which
adOrn them seem priceless treasures,
though for the most part they imita-
ton webs. The airy wraps which, on occa-
sions, cover these charming toilets. follow
in many cases the lines of the winter pele-
rines. Friled and puffed and laced about
the edges, little mantillas of silk or muslin
deck the shoulders of quantity simple silk
frocks. These may or may not have scarfs
and the gowns worn with them may strive
for the old quaintness or are strictly 1904
in essence The quainter gowns, however
are prettier than these little mantles, and
with any of the short lace silk sacques
worn for the wide gored skirts and simple
frill and fold and puff trimmings used on
these accord best with such revived styles
Longer summer wraps, especially those
intended to protect the costume, lean
largely to white and cream pongees. The
loose coats strive for a picturesque grace,
the bottoms often showing charming ar