The Savannah morning news., 1904-09-18
TAILOR MODES FOR
WEAR IN THE FALL
When in Doubt Buy Tailor Suit-"Dressy"
Modes May Change Quickly, but MAN
nish' Tailor Styles Are Likely
to Last
By KATHERINE ANDERSON.

When in doubt buy a tailored suit.
The fashions in "dressy'' frocks may
change before the first frost sets in. A,
style which the modistes confidently
expected to make a pronounced hit
may fall fiat. A "dressy" frock which
is good in September may be very,
very bad when the Christmas SHOWS
fall. But the tailored fashions, settled
while yet the summer girl was taking
her first dip in the salt water, are sure
to last. Men tailors determined the
lines on which the genuine tailor
made dress should be built, and some
how the feminine mind bows before
the masculine edict.
Last year only a few women went
in for the genuine tailored suit, and
there was a pronounced falling back
in the much-trimmed street dress.
There was a revival of the 1880 and
1860 modes. This year the pendulum
of fashion swings back to severity of
materials and lines for street wear.
Mannish fabrics are in great demand,
ana the Louis coats give opportunity
for the insertion of vests built from
the same materials as mems waist
coats. But the greatest relief to the
woman who likes to be simply dressed
on the street is the return of the coat
sleeve. Even where a pouched or
boused sleeve is used, the bouffant
effect is very slight, while the smart
est suit of all follows, in its sleeves at
least, the lines of mems coats. The
long fitting coat, either with or with
out the slot seams, is one of the sea-
sons novelties. The vest plain or
trimmed, is one Of the seasons most
striking effects.
The New Styles i'm Skirts.
Skirts, quite generally, are laid in
pleats and escape the ground by at
least an inch. Buttons are much
used for trimming; the revers are of
plain silk or edged with a small nov
city braid. Red cloth or leather or
chamois vests will be seen among the
many tailored suits. A Louis XVI
suggestion is in a distinctly mannish
eloth--a hard finish, mixed tweed. The
skirt is fashioned in fifteen cores, each
with a pleat stitched down over the
hips and pressed in the severe tailored
style down to the velveteen-bound
hem. The coat has fitted hip. seams
and reaches to the knees. The vest,
which comes only to the waist line is Of
vesting cloth, toning perfectly into the
coloring of the suit. The collar and
revers are of velvet, with a novelty
braid showing just a CLINT of gold, and
the vest is fastened with gun-metai
buttons, which are also used on the
sleeves, the cuff being finished with
simulated buttonholes on which the
buttons are sewed.
Gun Metal Mixtures.
Gun-metal mixtures are decidedly
popular this season, and when trimmed
with black satin or silk. revers are
masculine enough to suit the most
exacting bachelor girl. Prom this ma
terial is evolved a pleated skirt in nine
cores and a long coat without the hip
seams. Revers of black corded silk are
set off by a fancy black mohair braid.
The coat is snugly fitted at the back
and sides. but only semi-fittinE in the
double-breasted front. showing but a
single dart. 1t is fastened with small
silver buttons.
The short girl who likes to be called
petite has her own troubles in the
matter of tailored gowns, which are
usually built for her taller sisters only.