davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Savannah morning news., 1904-08-14
Between Season Hats
and Their TRIMMINGS
Late Summer Blooms and Fruits Replace Delicate
Flowers and Ribbons in Rich Tones
SuppIant Lace.
By KATHERINE ANDERSON.

There is no period in fashions year
which is more disceuraging to the
world of women than that which fol-
lows the return to town from a season
of summer conquests. Flowers, lace
and soft clinging fabrics droop wear
lily. Gowns have lost all their fresh
ness, to say nothing of their coloring,
and as for the summer girls hat-trunk,
it is a sorry spectacle.
The thought to any woman of going
downtown in such bedraggled head
gear is quite impossible. She takes out
the simplest and least offensive sailor
in her collection and HES her to the
nearest millinery shop. And what does
she find? All the undesirable hats left
from the spring and the summer shop
ping season, faded from contact with
the dust on the counters and the glar-
ing sunlight of the show windows and
cut down to mere shadow of their
former price. From these she turns to
the first display of fall hats, white felts
and beavers, just the thing for the first
frosty days, but, alas, absolutely win
try and inappropriate for the tail-end
of August.
FAN Hats from Summer Styles.
If she is wise she reviews the array
OF hats she has left at home and fig
ureS on some way of reViVing them
Tor the last days of summer and the
Hrst Gays OF fall. This is not SO diff
hcult as might be imagined.
She has picture hat of white straw
draped with repousse lace, badly soil
ed, and flowers that were once dainty
forget-me- notS. She strips off the lace
and the flowers, takes the hat to the
same shop where her father had his
Panama cleaned and blocked For fifty
cents the white hat is cleaned and re-
blocked, so that the crown is raised an
inch or more. This takes off the droop
from back and front, which is exactly
what the up-to-date girl wants. In
fact, she has three more rows of the
straw taken off in the back, so that it
hts to her head snugly like a turban,
with broad, scoop-shaped brim in
the front. While this is being done
she wisely looks over her collection of
last winters hats and finds three black
plumes, not too long, which she shakes
over steam and then curls with the
blunt side of her penknife. A search
through the family millinery boxes
will undoubtedly bring to light some
black velvet ribbon and a long jet
buckle. If the buckle is not forthcom-
ing she can well afford to invest
dollar in one.
Her Own MiIIiner.
Now, when the hat comes home, she
is ready to turn milliner. Black velvet
ribbon, three-quarters of an inch wide,
is fastened tightly around the crown
in three rows, or four if the crown is
nigh enough, finished at the back with
long, narrow buckle running laterally
so as to cover all the velvet bands. On
the front of the hat, little to the left,
she groups the three black plumes
somewhat after the fashion of the
Prince of Wales feathers, with the
plumes tipped forward jauntily. A
pair of black ribbon strings tie on the
hat and fall over the left shoulder,
and she has a bit of directoire head
gear in black and white, which is a
distinct relief after the green and white
The Savannah morning news., 1904-08-14
By MARY DEAN

high. the dyeng of A white lace collar
and undersleeves a rich saffron, giving
it new touch The belt is of old rose
mirror velvet.
Beside this stands a pale blue NOUS
seine, which may be put to any dressy
house use during the autumn and win
ter. Hung over white silk and girdled
with white taffeta, ii is inserted with
band lace in a rich butter yellow.
Must he DecOIIete.
Apropos of the dinner subject, for
all smart affairs the gown must be
decollete to some degree. At the big
hotels of Paris and London, and in all
OF the favored restaurants, elaborat e
hats are worn with these low gowns
for dinner, and the fad prevails to
some degree here. The hats are very
important" of course, high-crowned
for the most part and deliberately
trimmed with plumes or huge roses,
made often of folded taffeta or wide
ribbon.
Any costume in soft white, blue,
pink, cream or yellow, with English
eyelet embrolderies will be found a
treasure as a made-over The English
needlework continues to be much
sought after, and a dress of white
three of silk for white and wash
able materials are always captivating,
and if they are only crumpled a good
pressing will soon restore them. The
cream batistes with these embroider-
les come under the same admirable
head, for they likewise launder well
The Savannah morning news., 1904-08-14

The second week in August clearly
demonstrates standstin in tile fash
ion world. In town and country
smart folks go on wearing their Old
finery with some of it almost as tum-
bled as the narked-doWiis in the
shops, while Gressmakcrs are chiefly
employed in freshening ~ frail crea-
tons that they may last the season
TIN Ough.
her gowns are being openly re-
It cdled for autumn and winter use
for the expense and beauty of some
of the summers confecti) Is DO not
warrant their Icing thrown aside as
would be cheaper things At the end
of a season. Then nowadays it is al
ways summer indoors, so all the soft
whites and faint pastel tlnts and deli
cate butterfly textures OF TIE hot
months may so through the winter
for home wear.
Seize on Every Hint.
In remodeling these costumes per-
sons of sophisticated tastes are siez-
ing upon the hints dropped here and
there as to future motives. one fai-
sense Of accomplished gift makes use
of the has tie tail. wit =, i is Ge-
clared, viii ne seen upon winter lod-
ices of smart pretension Another is
employing large buttons at the fronts
of fancy boleros, for big buttons, too,
The Savannah morning news., 1904-08-14
THfIing Helps in
Quick ToiIeftes

Let the feminine world decide on n
new way of dressing the hair. or
building frock. or cutting skirt. or
fitting the hat, and forthwith notion
manufacturers the country over bring
out small novelties which simplify the
art of dressing.
Girls at notion counters have grown
accustomed to such questions as
these: What is that funny spike
for?' What is the newest thing for
keeping the shirt-waist and skirt to-
gether?" Have you anything new
for keeping the hair in curl ?"
In fact the girl who stands behind
the counter has no sinecure. and IL is
we'll for her that firms which manu-
facture novelties furnish demonstrators
for all the big department stores:
otherwise the curiosity Of customers
would bring on a case of nervous pros
tration for the regular clerks.
Though train skirts for street wear
have practically gone out. women like
10 have some convenient trinket for
raising the skirt in the back II they
The Savannah morning news., 1904-08-14
How to Distinguish
and Combine LaCes
Every Real Lace Has Its Imitation Under Another
Namely Their Mesh Shall Ye knoW Them

ed in the various widths of insertions
and edgings and medallions.
Medallion and Motif.
incidentally, medallion and motif are
interchangeable terms, meaning de-
tached, complete lace patterns usually
small in size and conventional in treat
ment. GALLON is an irregular insertion
so finished at both edges that it can
be set on the material and not into it.
Exaggerated galloonS such as garlandS,
fern leaves and wreaths, in heavy lace
such as point de v9nise, will be used to
carry out the directoire style of trim
ming this season.
Teneriffe lace, which is really Mexi-
can drawn work, or it's imitation in
machine-made goods, can be recognized
by its ever present wheel pattern. The
real teneriffe comes in white only,
though it is dyed in many light shades.
In black silk thread it is used for trim
ming black silk gowns in such GUAM
titles that it gives the effect of an all
over.
French valenciennes, which for many
centuries, appeared in the form of in
sertion and edging only, is enjoying a
decided revival because it is now of
fered in double width all-over, which
makes up admirably into gowns and
coats.
Grades of VaIenciennes.
There are two grades of valenciennes.
the German and the Platte. The Ger
man shows large mesh. the Platte a
fine, diamond-shaped mesh. The lat
ter is the more expensive lace.
Machine lace has many of the char
acteristics of valenciennes, but is more
silky in texture. Point de Paris is an
imitation of Duchesse lace. Lierre
lace gives the effect of a very fine
thread lace embroidered on a fine net
in floral design. The pattern is
straight and stiff, generally running
perpendicular on the flounce and giving
the effect of long stems on the flowers
1t comes in all-over, in insertion and
In edging, and is a favorite material
when used solidly for evening coats
over silk.
Two laces which have enjoyed a
vogue all summer, but will now be
given a secondary place in the ranks
of lingerie trimmings, are the repous-
see and the netloul de naigne. The
former is known by the name of push
ed-in lace and denied lace. The pat
tern, generally in large dots, was set
in rather than raised, and for this rea-
son people who didn't know the secret
of the pattern, made it up wrong side
out 1t is still much used for half
sleeves and jabots.
"NetIOuI de Naigne."
Netloul de naigne 1.-The falling of
snow" is also called the snow drop
lace and the seed lace. The mesh
The Savannah morning news., 1904-08-14

her own cookery declares even that
skirts of the natural tinted sorts, with
white shirt waists, are stylish for this
service. But while In the actual throes
of the cuisine she also wears an apron
OF the skirt texture, cut in the high bib
way of those affected by art students.
Recalls a Bizarre story.
The word linen recalls a bizarre story
told by foreign periodical as to the
origin of some of the more novel sorts
used this season. A special kind. thick.
but silky and supple, which washes
superbly, is said to be woven in imita-
ton of the burial cloths found in the
ruins of an old French abbey The
shrouds of the excellent brothers, now
no more than dust. were also rich with
superb embroideries, whose like had
been lost to the world So this dainty
and forgotten stitching, these marvel
ously woven webs. found their way in
to the modern fashion world and be-
came the thing for the mondaine. Even
stories were told by these embroideries
1t seems. and II they were faithfully
copied who knows but. at this moment.
there is somewhere in the world a 1904
shirt waist inscribed with a sixteenth
century romance.
The Savannah morning news., 1904-08-14
Hints for Making Over The
Summer Dress for Autumn
Basque he Boero High Busted Adjustment of the
Bodice and Sleeves Elbow Length Go Long Way.

it all depends. naturally, upon their
condition. for. without doubt, when
the end Of the summer really arrives
some Of the more ravishing of the fra
gile gowns will be scarcely more than
rags. But even these butterflies with
torn wings may sometimes be revived
to some extent with pressing, mending
and new ribbons, and by putting colors
or black velvet with damaged white.
Any pale tinted yelling chiffon, CLOTH
silk or net whose condition is passable
is a good winter theater material, and
for quite a while to come the pale
summer wraps may be worn and, with
the addition of an inteTlining, carried
far into the autumn. The white and col
ored pongees and taffetas and cloths
used for them clean well, and some of
The white coats may even be washed
with advantage. But when the clean
ing is to be done ut home it is well
to depend upon the more sure results
of a naphthA bath, for many textures,
even when beautified, shrink with
washing beyond recall
The Linen Gown.
AS to the linen gown that thing of
beauty of short skirt and embroidery
and dash, even this may remain in evil
Many fashionable women of house
keeping gifts have found them admir-
able for the tours of the menage, and
in all likelihood the blue and white
shirt-waist sorts will be quite the
vogue for winter house wear. A young
matron who gives luncheon parties of
The Savannah morning news., 1904-08-14

those on the outside into the skirt band,
and the little fastener is swung on
tape band which fastens with a buckle
in the front
The woman who wants the long.
straight-front effect on her blouse
buys big hook on a stout pin, which
she fastens at some point on her cor
set we'll below the waist line. Under
this she slips all the bands of her
underwear and her dress skirt, so that
they cannot ride up and interfere with
the set of her blouse. On the other
hand, in view of the promised return
to the short round basque the small
waist and the round hips, small COM
bination hustle and hip pads are al
ready on the market. These are made
of hair, covered with lawn or fine
cambria, and are worn under the cor
set.
The gradual disappearance of the
pompadour and the advent of the soft
ly waved part have brought into sight
many devices for waving the hair
One of the best of these looks like a
broad rubber band, such as is used
in offices, sewed together half it's
length. For waving, the hair is WOW
en- in and out of the crack; for curl
ing. it is woven round the crack and
then tied in a knot. 1t is said that
this device can be worn at night with
out hurting the head, because it is
of soft rubber.
The girl who has some pretty rib
bon belts which cannot be made over
into girdles can make them look broad
in the back by the use of a simple
little aluminium device which has teeth
on either side. This belt distender
comes in three sizes, three, four and
five inches wide.
Two conveniences for the traveller
are a channels skin bag. fiat and per-
forated. to be filled with face powder,
and a tooth brush, set in rubber, which
fits over the top of the handle like a
thimble. The latter not only saves
space in the grip. but saves blows on
the enamel from the tooth brush ham
die when the traveller is thrown about
by the rapidly moving train.
The Savannah morning news., 1904-08-14

are caught in a storm and find their
arms occupied with carrying umbrel-
las and bundles. neat skirt litter
comes in the form of a
buckle about three inches wide.
There is no bar through the CEN
ter. But at either end of the oval
three little teeth are set. These are
run through the skirt, lifting it up in
the form of a deep tuck. 1t comes in
silver, gun metal and jet.
The woman who has denied herself
delicate gowns that cannot be washed
on the score of running them with per-
SEPARATION should visit a store which
keeps large supply of shields. Par
ticularly nice are the narrow shields
which fit into the inside of the elbow
and save annoyance at this point.
There are shields of fine, silky finish
large enough to cover the back above
the corset waist where summer gowns
of taffeta are often ruined.
The detachable shields are conven-
lent a strip of tape slips over the
shoulder and is pinned down to the
arms eye of the frock with tiny silver
safety-pins. A narrow band of white
elastic holds the shield in place on top
of the forearm.
skirt together new devices are offered
almost daily. A handy pin. not unlike
a safety-pin, yet more complicated,
comes in sets of a dozen each. 1t looks
like twisted wire, and hooks first to
the petticoat or corset and then to the
shirt-waist. 1t takes a demonstra-
tor to teach a woman how to use it
successfully, but once the trick is mas
tered there is no chance for the shirt
waist or blouse to slip up. These come
in silver and black
Then one may buy by the yard tape
on which hooks and eyes are fastened
tight. The line of tape with the hooks
is attached to the blouse, while that
carrying the eyes is attached to the
skirt, Much more simple is a strip of
aluminium three and half inches long
by one and a quarter inches wide, with
teeth on either side. The teeth on the
wrong side bite into the shirt-waist,
The Savannah morning news., 1904-08-14

IN round bands covers the back OF the
shoulders, the blue likewise forming
the wide belt. and a soft roll al the
middle OF the lace rufiles the elbow
sleeves. Turquoise iewelry will be
found charming with this little cos
tune.
The second gown is OF white swiss.
embroidered with black and trimmed
with black baby velvet Three ruff
Hes prettily deck the skirt, held down
and edged with "A single velvet band.
rough novelty lace forms the deep
and odd yoke. and the crush girdle
~ Of old rose mirror velvet
Depends ON che Wear and Tear.
As 70 the other costumes which may
be CARED over into the new season,
The Savannah morning news., 1904-08-14

and are radiantly set off by tinted
satin belts and bodice knots.
Two Made-Over FrOcks.
Two frocks of this description may
be turned to dressy home account the
winter through. The first is of cream
embroidered batiste hung over pure
white silk. skirt flounce of the eye
let embroidery loops in the pretty
old way at the sides, over a foot
border of the needlework. The gath
cred bodice has fichu drapery car
ried to the bust and caught there
with a square bow of sky-blue tat
fetas. A triple yoke of the blue silk
The Savannah morning news., 1904-08-14

are to be worn. Still another confines
the length of all her sleeves to the
elbow, at which point Partisan sleeves
have lSlted for some time. A very
close and high-bustled adjustment of
the bodice is likewise a feature of
those made-overs. for the stiff corset
ing of Louis periods is to super
sede entirely the late blousy tenden-
cies This necessitating a ounder
waist line, it looks as if the old sin
of lacing will once more be in the
calender. Already. indeed. many fig
ures look plainly Squeezed" but then
the fashionable damsel is a slim maid,
so it may all be in the course Of ma
ture.
The GirdIe.
The girdles which embrace these dis
tractingly little and flexible waists are
the despair of the stout, for only the
wasp tails may wear the majority of
them. In countless forms and rich and
radiant materials they have gone tri
umphantly through the summer, prov
ing their elegant qualify by the fact
that they are still in existence.
The wide belts may go through the
winter or they may not, but while the
question hangs in the balance they are
doing excellent service in the refur-
nishng of old gowns. For all who can
wear them one of these wide belts is
advised, and the simmer effects are
made by bias silks, folded and pulled
very tight. Magnificent lowered rib
hons and bias velvets shape the clum-
sier sorts, the sorts which are some
times shirred over bones and are more
difficult to wear.
Secrets of "Made-overs."
Hating at the door Of one fashion
able establishment a little, peeping and
listening at the keyhole, will reveal
some of the secrets of the madeovers.
Fashionable establishments though, it
must be understood, are not given to
refurnishing old gowns They merely
doctor, and rarely that the ones they
themselves have imported or turned
out, but when they undertake freshen-
ing. IL is done with the pains of new
work.
A carriage gown enters and madame
looks 1t over, white chiffon yelling.
with two shades of brownish yellow in
PRODUCED in the lace entredem A hard
pressing is discussed for this, and the
elimination OF a folded chiffon Ramp
and pulled chiffon undersleeves. which
are in bad condition. This change
leaves the neck with a pretty round
decolletage and the sleeves in flowing
elbow style. And now a skeleton belt
in several shades Of orange ribbon vel
vet says madame, "a touch Of it
about the decolletage. and behold as
charming a dinner frock as could be
wished"
A Little BIT grippe"
Everywhere Il is noticed. the mo-
nent frock is a little bit frippe as
the French put Il. II is at once turned
into something for evening use Arti-
flcial light covers a multitude OF i'm
projections, and somehow or other no
body seems ever 10 have an absolutely
new dinner gown, all the world appear.
ing 10 eat In made-overs OF more or less
splendor.
A delightful summer toilette turned
into this use for winter is of pale gray
reEence silk lowered IN the same tlnts.
The removal Of some narrow frills on
the skirt. needing "a screen for ma
chine picking, Nat puhs ~ plain gray
taneta there form "a quaint and pretty
trimming. The gathered waist Is left
The Savannah morning news., 1904-08-14

so thick as the brussels and is cheap
er. 1t also comes in various colors
and in black silk. 1t can be dyed to
match the shade of a gown, and is
much used for large puffs in under
sleeves and, when appliqued with lace,
for Jokes, berthas and jabots.
Scarfs, collars, berthas and fans are
offered in Venetian lace, honiton, brus-
sells, duchesse, rose point, bruges, NAL
tese, Irish point and tambour.
1t does not pay to buy an article
like this in imitation lace. Those of
real lace will last not only lifetime,
but they can be handed down through
many generations. Lace collectors
declare that a piece of real lace may
be torn on nail or a sharp edge
of any sort, but it will absolutely
not wear out through mere usage
The Savannah morning news., 1904-08-14

PIE, coffee and conversation"
said Senator Plat of Connections, ''ere
the three ingredients that constitute
a good dinner" And the greatest Of
these is conversation" commented
companion. "No. pie is the greatest"
corrected the Senator. 1T excels con-
versation in that it always comes to
you with a point to it,"
The Tacoma times. [volume] (Tacoma, Wash.) 1903-1949, 1904-07-30
WILL IT COME TO THIS?

What are We the American people, against?
the political the public
four with platforms which have sharply dyerged
and have consequently stirred strife enthusiasm
But this which the Republican and
They practically pod The
fight has been abandoned much ice and
the Panama there of opinion
It has of respectable
presidential candidates. as hasa already
We therefore, them only
relatives and pirates
Having finished proceed to In
spec them Individually enthusiasm by telling
friends of all pleasing
Already bucilng
broncho
hind legs That what the Rough
Riders they ought know.
Judge Parker swim Every
ing before breakfast his bathing suit
the he swlms
from with lunch shade
just for gladstone
These things all right They adj
will there developments resulting
growing enthusiasm of the partisan these candidates? For
will
es while
the public thoroughes
he Bamboo Tree?
Such public with
but
without
The Tacoma times. [volume] (Tacoma, Wash.) 1903-1949, 1904-07-30
Judgment in Recipe Cooking.


In any recipe it is impossible to
give every detail and the woman who
has not the instinct of the cook born
in her must learn by careful observa-
ton to use judgment in all combina-
tions Of food materials.
She must cultivate a taste for the
seasoning. She must know when
things are done by applying the old
time tests such as putting a broom
splint in mullins and cake to see if
they are baked through: knocking
on the bottom of each loaf of bread
to see if it rings.
All liours are not the same Some
brands will thicken quicker than
others and less should be used. At
times we find -four that requires less
or more shortening and the cook is
able to tell by the touch whether the
cake batter is of the right consist
ency pie crust short enough bread
dough stiff enough etc.
Good vinegar is likely ito be too
strong and to require diluting for all
purposes.
One woman cooking by recipe and
without judgment decided to make
HN"Nh BtC9ti We. Que put luG DdfRu
peaches and sugar over hot fire ana
cooked them all day The recipe
said to let the preserve cook until
clear and stir constantly so it won't
burn. She did not stir from the bot
tom of the pan and so it burned
AT o'clock that evening she tasted
the preserve. 1t was a sticky bitter
mess. She took the kettle into the
back yard where ii went into hole.
She covered it with newly cut grass.
Next morning cries of poor kitty
brought the preserve maker TO the
window. The cat had fallen into
the mess then rolled into the cut
grass and had then sought the fence
in disDair. The woman said after
wards that if she could not make
preserves from peaches she could at
least make a porcupine from a cat.
Many women who follow recipes
without using judgment find them
selves with more porcupines than
good food on hand.