Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-22
STOCKS AND SAyOR|ES
Hasty Cookery Sacrifices Nu-
triment and Flavor.
WELL-STOCKEDIPANTRY
HOW CHEAP CUTS CAN BE MADE
INTO TASTEFUL DISHES.
Receipt for Getting Your Moneys
Worth Lies in Having
Things Handy.

Inc city housewife In America, with the
| worlds market practically at her command,
| frequently offers far less palatable meals
| than her country sister or even the foreign
peasant woman for whom she expresses
profound pity.
This fact is due largely to her association
| with her typical American husband. He de-
| mands quick results in his business. He de-
mands quick results in her kitchen. If she
has a gas stove she counts on saving as
many feet of the Illuminating fuel as she
possibly can, so that beefsteak, chops and
outlets, fried or sauted dishes are given the
preference over all other methods Of cook
| ing. Canned vegetables of every description
aer used, while the delicatessen shop and
| the bakery contribute relishes and desserts.
What the housewife saves on gas, how
ever, she loses through lack of nutriment
| in the food and actual expenditures on high
priced cuts of meat.
There is economy even In the method or
using the gas stove. In the case of dishes
which are to be simmered or stewed very
gently a sheet-iron "spreader" should be
| employed This is an oblong or sheet IRON;
| large enough to hold two pans or pots, and
| it's center is placed directly over the jet
| If one of these pots holds soup stock and
the other dried fruit or vegetable winch
should simmer they can be set side by side
on the spreader and the heat will be suff1-
cient to keep them just at the boiling point.
In fact if the flow of gas is strong the JET
will have to be turned down or they WIZ ~
boil too fast They should be brought TO
a boil, however, before they are placed on
the spreader.
Need Flavor and Body.
Lack of flavor and body condemns many
an American housewives cookery. And
these are the features of restaurant COOK
ing particularly in foreign restaurants, for
which she expresses the greatest admlra-
ton The body or backbone of economical
cooking is the stock pot. The flavor is que
to a well-stocked pantry. me houseWile
who buys from hand to mouth anu wah W.,
from green grocer'S to dellcateSSeH siloP
seldom favors her food we'll Ihere are
MANY favorings besides onion.
A word first as to stock and Its man1foio
uses A reliable recipe for stock, TO De
used In f,avoring sauces and basting cheap
meats, as well as foundation LOT all cleai
soups, is this;
Three pounds shin beef.
Three pounds knuckle of veal
A ham bone chopped in pieces or quarter
pound lean ham.
Two carrots.
Two small onions or one large one.
One large turnlp.
Four cloves.
One bay leaf.
One teaspoonful mixed herbs.
Five peppercorns.
A good sized lump Of sugar.
Salt to taste.
Three quarts cold water. 'z5e
Chop the ham bone and cut the beef ana
veal into two-inch square pieces WASH,
pare and cut the vegetables In thick slices.
Now put them with the meat and the nam
bone into large saucepan, cover with the
water and bring slowly to a boil. Keep
the stock we'll skinned, adding little cold
water to prevent it from boiling too quickly.
When 1t is quite clear add all the other IN
gradients. and simmer very gently Tor nve
hours Strain carefully through a cioth OF
fine sieve, and when quite cold remove the
fat and it is then ready for use.
Her Bone Supply.
When the housewife has learned the wis
dom of lastly preparing cheap meats she
will find that she has bones at her COM
mand almost every day. If, for instance,
she learns to save the bone taken from the
center of a steak, the ribs from roast and
| the carcasses of chickens or turkeys. the
| liouor from these will form excellent
| foundation for many soups; say that she
| has a frame of a roast chicken and the
! center bone of a steak. Let her crack them
| up lay them in the soup kettle, cover with
cold water and when they come to the first
| boil skim carefully. Simmer gently for
| two hours and half or three hours, then
| add vegetable flavoring.
The Last Touches.
Stick half a dozen cloves into an onion,
| take half bay leaf, few green tops of
| celery, a small carrot, sliced fine, and add
to the stock with a dash of pepper Sim
mer gently for another hour. Strain through
| a soup sieve; set away to cool, and be-
| fore using, scrape off every bit of fat that
| has risen in the cooling process. This stock
| may be kept in porcelain bowl or glass
| Jar In the refrigerator, and will remain
| sweet for some time.
The value of stock in giving body to
cheap meat dishes Is nowhere better dem
onstrated than In braising. In many an
| Ay,n OF diynp0 &c
| thing to be dreaded, simply because the
| cook does not know how to prepare a cheap
piece of meat. Braising is the correct way
| of preparing pot roast. and 1t is mixture
! of boiling and baking, accomplished in the
oven and not on top of the stove. 1t can
be employed in cooking beef, veal. pork or
| poultry when the latter is found to be
| tough and unpromising. double roasting
| pan is used, and the meat almost floats in
| stock. highly favored with bay leaf, car
rots, onions and herbs. The meat browns
| while the stock evaporates, but it does not
| dry out, absorbing in the meanwhile the
nourishing qualities and the rich favoring
| of the stock.
| Now as to savories and garnishings for
| inexpensive dishes. The garnishng is a
| feature of cookery not to be despsed, as
| under it's gentle influence a family will
| yield to economy when curtain lectures and
a fiat purse fail to convince. Fresh parsley,
| celery leaves. sliced lemon and triangles of
| golden-brown toast are dependable gar
| niShes
|
| Stocking the pantry with savories may
sound formidable at the beginning, but they
| will more than pay their way with the ad
vancing winter. Parsley is useful in sauces
and dressings. In large cities it is mex
! pensive the year round, but where the price
rises in winter the housewife may prepare
| it while it Is cheap. Spread on a board in
| moderate oven, and when thoroughly
dried rub the leaves to powder, in NOR
! tar. Press them through a fine sieve pour
into wide-mouthed bottle, cork securely
and keep in a dry cold place. 50
Bay leaves can be bought at grocery
| stores, but they come more cheaply at the
| drug store. A dimes worth will last a
| family of ordinary size an entire winter.
They should also be kept in an alright
receptacle free from dust and, in a cool
| good mixed herb f1avorfng. which is in
valuable in the preparation Of cheap meat
dishes, Is this: One tablespoonful thyme,
one OF sweet maJoram, one of basil and one
| or summer saVory, two tablespoonfuls dried
! parsley, one of celery seed and one of dried
lemon peel Rub these together through
| fine sieve and bottle
| Dried tarragon leaves In vinegar form the
| tarragon vinegar which gives such a pi-
| quaint flavor to sour sauces. A bottle of
] capers, which are coveerd with vinegar,