The Republican journal. [volume] (Belfast, Me.) 1829-current, 1904-06-30
ture of her mt theirs, who worked be-

rug of intricate pattern. The place
was thronged with visitors from our
train, and many were thesexpressions
of amusement and admiration, such as,
"1sn't she too cute for anything" show
cred on the bright-eyed little maid, as
well as numerous gifts of money.
We arrived at Holbrook in the early
morning and there found an army am
bulance and six mules from Fort
Apache awaiting us. A noticeable fea-
ture of adornment at the little hotel
where we breakfasted was the profu-
sion of petrifed wood. The wonderful
petritied forest of Arizona is but 20
miles away and parties of tourists are
going and coming from there every
day. Every window ledge and shelf
was ornamented with row of the curl
Gus bright-hued pieces, as was the We
randa and walks; and beside the door l
noticed portion of tree in most
beautiful colorings, set upright as a
pedestal. After breakfast we started
out with light hearts. We were car
weary and the prospect of driving
through the bright, bracing mountain
air seemed most desirable change.
My brother and l were especially hilar-
ious with laughter and jokes for the
first mile, and | noted with surprise
that my husband kept most discreet
silence, which later explained itself, he
having had in years past some similar
experiences and guessed what was to
come.
Imagine if you can the sensations
one would have in riding over a huge
wash board-for l can compare those
terrible lodges to nothing else-now
thrown on our backs, then pitching wild
ly to our knees as we jolted into gullies
which it seemed each time would snap
the spinal column; with very fat pug
dog rebounding from side to side with
most piteous cries of protest, and con-
tlnue this physical exercise hour after
hour for % miles, with nothing to claim
our attention from the miseries of the
body; nothing to be seen from the
coach windows as far as the eye could
reach, but stretch OF desert. sand,
lodges, struggling cactus, small scrub
cedars and an occasional coyote sculk-
ing in the distance. This is part of the
great desert of Arizona, and the Lord
forbid that the occasion shall ever
arise When | may be called upon to see
more of it. Much as ! enjoy adventure
and variety OF scenery, TOO mach is
enough OF certain kinds. At O'Clock
we pulled Into Snowflake an oasis in
the desert, and more indignant and
disguised mortal you would never wish
to see than yours truly. Had | been
man | shonld, doubtless, have been able
to greatly relieve my feelings by CO.
plouS flow OF the strong language which
always seems to them so satisfactory.
Every bone i'll the body acfted. every
muscle and SlneW was pulled apart and
with groans and lamentations | utterly
refused taking another step into that
God-torSahen region, vehemently de-
ciarlng | would start for down east
by return stage. But my husband, fore
seeing that result quietly distracted !
my money, transferring it to his own |
pocket. so perfOrce when morning |
came | must follow the pocket book to |
the bitter end.
We found Snowflake to be Jewel of |
a village, built i'll a creek bottom. the |
land all being irrigated from the creek.
Brave, indeed. were these people, who
tor the sake of their faith-for this is a
purely Mormon settlement, as in fact
are all in this part of the country
nave lmmigrated to this desolate
region, and with the courage of the old
pioneers and unremitting labor have
caused the desert to bloom like
lower, raising about them a thrifty
looking village with broad streets and
several brick buildings, the others gally
painted cottages with tiny lawns and
garden beds. Surrounding them are
some fine fruit acknowledgements pre-
COMMUNICATING gardens and many
acres of farming land, and fields of the
,,,,1-
comfortable living from this bit of
and redeemed from the desert. and the
money earned by working for the gov
.rnnent as freighters between Hol-
look and Fort Apache After nights
est we started out from Snowflake
omeWhat refreshed, but with discon-
ent and grave misgivings at heart at
he Kind Of country we were being
lecoyed into. But we soon left the
and and Lodges behind, entering the
oothllls, Where the evergreen growth
vas abundant, and the trail, though
vlndlng about through some rough
asses, was much of the way carpeted
With pine needles and comparatively
comfortable travelling. By the time
We stopped for lunch at large ranch
ouse. | had begun to ''sit up and take
lotlce,' and from that time until we
cached our destination at noon the
day we were agreeably sur
rised and delighted as we advanced
arther into the mountains, and the
rand and beautiful scenery unroled
tself like panoramic picture before
s.
At we had made 40 miles, and STOP
ed for the night at the famous
'ooley's ranch, one of the best known
andmarks in Arizona Mr. Cooley is now
II aged man and has been famous
haracter in the history of Arizona.
)ne OF the early pioneers of this terri
DRY he married an Apache woman and
xerted much influence among this
loodthirsty and cruel tribe. He was
ne of Gen. Crooks most famous
couts, acting in all the early cam
aigns of this distinguished Indian
ghter, penetrating alone to the Indian
lllages. His advice was always listen
d to with respect. A fluent and inter-
sting conversationalist, it is a pleas
re TO listen to the tales of early life in
lrizona told by this genial old gentle
IAN at his fine ranch situated in a
eautiful natural park in the White
fountains. The altitude at this place
) about 1900 feet above sea level, with
UGH delicious air as had never before
reathed. The snow-tipped peaks en-
this ranch are pine clad,
nd the place would be IN ideal health
esort. Here, spending his declining