Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-09
and filled in with ruffies of plisse mousse
line.
Quaint Shirrings.

&NoAas SAAA
Equally quaint is a satin armure In dark
green. which carries shirrings so arranged
as not to destroy the lines of the figure.
The shirrings are fashioned on heavy cords,
so adjusted as to follow the lines of the
seams in the long. trailing plain skirt. dear
to the heart of her who would be willowy
To simulate a fiounce there is a heading
of curved. double shirrings which run
around the skirt, where the lengthwise
shirringS stop, and above this runs a line
of chiffon and silk medallions in the same
tint as the silk. The bodice also is shirred
with a narrow girdle and spreading bell
sleeves. An 1890 sloping collar of lace and
undersleeyeS of the same pattern complete
this dreSSy gown
Brown sicilienne enters into the construc-
ton of a simple but effective calling Co.'S
tune. The skirt has a front panel defined
by strappings of silk. and double hounce
effect is simulated on the sides by strap
pings of stitched silk. The jacket is SIM
pie, but extremely dressy, being an eton
formed of three cape-like sections each
bound with stitched silk and falling loosely
over the pointed and fitted girdle The
sleeve is a single puff caught into a droop-
ing cuff beneath which the inevitable ruffle
of lace falls over the hand. The distinctive
feature of the suit Is the vest-lke front,
made from suede heavily braided and en-
broidered in gold. With this is worn a hat
of brown straw. faced with white and trim
med with white gulls.
Il6aCeQ Sk1T CS ana ECOnS.
The pleated eton has its adherents .es-
pecially for wear with pleated skirts,
champagne-colored wolfe lends itself ad-
mirably to double-pleated skirt stitched
down the hip curve and pressed SO
that they retain the flare. The eton is
pleated to shallow shoulder yoke and falls
loosely back and front over a silk girdle
with sash ends at the back Bell-shaped
sleeves are finished with triple fiounces of
accordion-pleated valenciennes, and the
revers on the sleeves well as the rolling
collar of the jacket of Point de Venise
medallions. The sash, girdle, ribbon stole
and ornaments on the sleeves and collar
all of soft silk, in tone of brown
which harmoniZes perfectly with the cham
pagne-colored wolfe. The silken ornaments
are particularly quaint.
Even in the weave of the silks old fashion,
ed tones and designs are introduced, such
steel blue grounds with dark blue
checks. With this pattern of silk comes
the inevitable shirring or gaugng, as the
English call it, In a dainty frock diminu-
tive pleats held the skirt In shape at the
waist, and the flare around the foot was at
tanned by means of cores cunningly in
serted. Two-inch ruffies of the silk, closely
shirred, were edged with velvet and set
about two inches apart. The little rufiies
were also employed on the bodice to give a
long, sloping shoulder effect and tapering
down to the pointed belt, like sober.
puffy fichu.
With this was worn a dainty wrap of
blue velvet, in the darker tint shown in
the silk and elaborated with tiny rufIies
of very fine lace in the form of a jabot and.
undersleeves.
Were a bonnet of velvet with silvery
grapes worn with this. the costume might
seem to have stepped from some 1880 por-
trait, but the illusion is destroyed by the
use of a picture hat in blue maline of three
shades with plumes to match.