The Indianapolis journal., 1904-04-15


is a season of extreme. extravaganza and
luxury is too palpably self-evident to ad-
nit either of discussion or dissent. We
are met with evidences thereof at every
turn. If any doubt fingered in the mind
II would be necessary only to go forth
and study conditions a bit to bring about
conviction, at once deep-seated and unal-
terable. but do not believe that the ques-
tion is an open one. Little by little we
have been adding to our gowns and our
coats, season by season We have been pill
ing trimming on trimming, detail upon de-
tail, until. finally, the present height was
reached. and to-day we see costly cos
tunes at every turn. elaborate models on
all sides, evidences of lavish expenditure
whichever way We look; but real beauty
seldom. We are lost in a wilderness of
frils and furbeows. We are overwhelmed
with lace embroidered. with chiffon paint
ed, with every known device for increasing
the cost of materials. We see the lily
painted or its equivalent, everywhere, and
with what result? True beauty often is
lost. Distinction is apt TO be found only
where rebellion has been manifest, or re-
action has set in and comparative sim
plicity is the result. Among a hundred
models, exhibited at an importers show
ing this spring, just one fingers in my men,
ory and that one was white crepe de chine
made on simple lines with the only trim
ming embroidery worked on TO the mate
rial, and l do not believe that the expert
ence is mine alone. At a recent opening
there was heard a sigh followed by ''Oh
dear. is everything so fussy?" the remark
coming from a woman whose own gown
bespoke wealth and all that comes
thereof, and doubt countless
other visitors felt the criticism If they did
not utter it. Yet while all this is true it is
quite possible TO be in style and to dress
with taste. using only comparatively simple
| things, and it is this possibility about
which / wish to write to-day Nothing in
my judgment is so pernicious, so abso-
lutely injurious to character building as the
tendency of people of moderate means to
strive after what wealth alone can give.
To be tastefully dressed is every woman's
duty. To do credit to herself and TO her
husband should be her aim. But there are
certain things that belong to the owners
of big purses, that are unattainabe with
out, unless one sacrifice far better things
in order to procure them, yet which often
are striven after as if they were indeed
earls of great price. If young girls could
I
| them nothing else can. If mothers would
set before their daughters the truth that
no raiment, no matter how fine, is worth
| the price of exhausted nerves, of over
strained energies, of demand upon the
family purse that means a tense strain,
we should become a happier race and, /
think. more beautiful one. We con-
tinually being told that the American
woman is the handsomest in the world.
We do wear, our gowns well, we do pos
sess a certain distinction. but not a for
Gignpr shocked
Iy our exhaustive ways and who could not
| teach us lessons of repose. How much of
| this is due TO the struggle to keep up the
pace set by the wealthy few 1 am not pre-
pared to say, but that greater simplicity,
combined with true sense of beauty,
would mean liberation along the line of
| dress at least, / am sure.
BRIDES GOOD TASTE
We have had many weddings this spring.
! Our big churches have seen brides gowned
in royal lace and costly silks, but / doubt
if any more charming picture has been
seen anywhere than that made by the sweet
girl who took her vows in sheer organdy.
made by hand, but with not a thread of
lace as garniture Her father has ample
means, but she elected to marry a poor
man and she held that the fitting gown in
which to become his wife and the one that
would be of future use 1t was dainty-ex-
| QG1SltelY SO-anu a lovely DlllOWy mass. but
il was not costly. as bridal gowns are judged
| to-day. Again l would like to urge the
| truth that suitability means more than
| cost. We have become a great nation, our
| society is complex and it's requirements are
/ many IL Is well 10 remember that muslin
| made with pretty low neck is always cor
! rect for and after dinner, whereas the
| cOStlieSt silk may be out of place We will
recall how the heroine of one of Willxe
| Coliinss most famous novels won over
her noble husbands carping friends by APP
| pearing among them in simple muslin finely
made, and the lesson might well be re-
membered to-day. This spring and sum-
/ mer afford ample opportunity for gowns
| of similar charm. While, as / have sta
! ed. luxury and extravaganza run rampant,
many exquisite materials OF little cost are
/ offered and 1t is quite possible TO dress
| charmingly without undue expense. Never
| have linens and cottons been so many and
varied. While some few are costly. the
| many are moderate in price and be
/ made up most effectively with trimming of
| the material and, perhaps. a little lace
| Full skirts make the feature of the sea
/ son. No trimming suits them better than
! narrow gathered frills. AS charming an
/ afternoon gown as any woman need ask
design. ard combines a skirt Of the sort
| with blouse to match. The skirt is laid In
tucks over the hips, below which II falls il
1 graceful folds and is finished with five tiny
! rufries, the upDermost gathered TO form a
| heading. The blouse is tucked and plated
| and deep cuffs OF simple lace At the waisl
| IS a deep soft belt of tender green liberty
| silk that matches the leaves OF the flowers
I The batiste was purchased for 10 cents a
| yard and the lace Is one OF the pretty ones
| of little price. Round the edges of tine yoke
| and cuffs are fiat puffings of plain white
| muslin that give distinctive touch. IL has
| become an established rule, here as abroad
that all gowns worn at formal dinners ol
for evening functions not requiring hats
| shall be decollete \ pretty evening dress
| is of the lovely Korean crepe. I'm paiC blue
| and is made with fun gathered 1860 skirt
| edged with band OF chiffon velvet finished
with three milliner's folds and a bodice cu
low and round but simply full. with
| bertha of cream net top lace and fun flow
/ ing elbow sleeves edged with velvet e
| match the skirt. The girdle is deep and
| soft and OF the velvet and there is fas
| cn8ting little tucker OF plain net to- mattel
| the lace that gives an old-time air and Z
| modest tone in one. The crepe is one of tbs
| least costly of the many lovely Eastern
silks yet il takes delightful folds and line:
| and is beautiful in every true sense. Ths
| lace is pretty one that suits IL well. bu
| not expensive, and the design so simple
! that the clever young woman made The