New-York tribune., 1904-09-13
THE SANE OLD FIGURE.
Uyaists No Smaller, Only Made to
.fppcar So by DreSSmaker.

re. since fall fashions began 20 be talked of
there has been much talk also about the new
figure tut according TO Miss Elizabeth A {
wbre. president Of the Dressmakers' Protective
As.,ciation Of America which opened its eighth
.,,-e,tiou Yesterday afternoon at the Masonic
,ror7uie taere Is no occasion for alarm along this
3De snd no woman need think that she must
obaree the shape OF her body In order to he
fashionable.
..-rhera Is no new figure. only new effect and
. =. ~ trsinees of the dressmaker 10 make her
.,stor,ers look fashionable. no matter what their
ss1,res are +" said Miss White 10 group of dress
makers yesterday afternoon The small waist
for instance is an Illusion created by the dress
maker In reality. our waists not n bit smaller
than they before. Yet this Illusion is Inc
keynote of the fashions
When we wore blouses the waist looked small
no matter how large u was NOW an garments
are close fitting and in order TO retain the ap-
r,esrance Of a small waist everything must be
changed The shoulders must be broad and the
bust fun. Hence the military sleeve and the fun
srsperies over the bust. The effect OF the bust
is little higher than it has been. but there Is no
change in the reality. Corsets are no higher than
they were before. except At the SIDES, Whlch is
necessity for stout women. but just at the top OF
the corset the dressmaker puts a few little ruff
EOS Of silk These are sewed 10 the lining OF the
gown and are just as necessary for stout woman
IS for a thin
As 10 skirts proceeded Miss White. there is
feet. They look fuller, but they are not This is
because they crcularly, and fare out about
the feet. I reality, there is no more material in
them Than in our last seasons skirts. and the
alarm which has gone broad about the nordinats
quantities cf material demanded by the new
skirts is wholly unnecessary. Twenty yards IS
annie for The most elaborate gown.
,srhe new skirts quite fun enough. however,
Ia demand some kind of support from beneath.
The new materials soft that there Is no
other yav 80 keep from walking on the skirt
silks are as soft butter, and matter how
,rncb : woman NAV dislike the idea of crtnolne,
she y-jil simply have IT, A piece OF crino-
line al the shoulder Is also a necessity, but in
botb Skirt and sleeve II may be used TO give
no appearance Of stiffness.
The really new skirt has a seam down the front
and hack. II is trimmed about the foot and has
the funess the hips gathered into little punches
about an inch and Ihree-quarters apart For cere
monious wear il touches The ground all around.
and may be a little longer the back, but there
are no more trains. Trotting skirts clear the
ground By four inches. and very smart made
in plaid silks Wooliens.
The distinguishing feature Of the really new
bodice Is that il has separate g1rdle. The g1rdle
is an integral part of the whole"
The convention will remain in session until Sep
iember % and there will be talks every morning
afternoon and evening by Miss White Miss Lila
White and Professor H. schneider.
Miss White gave reception last night. and the
dressmakers exchanged views on the general state
of their art. A large number OF Paris gowns which
are shown only 10 members are on exhibition