The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-01-15
THE SUMNER SHIRTWAIST IS
ALREADY SEEN Nv THE SHOPS
Radical Changes, but Many Fine Points Of Difference BetqOeen
Styles of THIS Season and Last

and the lace is both heavy and open In de-
sign. The sleeves are wide and full, tucked
above the elbows only and droop over the
three-inch cuffs. The back is OF the batiste
with lace and tucks at the center. but Is
comparatively plain. A still greater novelty
Is white silk combined with Russian lace
In Irvine color. but II is admirable and
goes TO prove what good work designers
have turned out. The twine color on the
white Is really beautiful. IL is not alone
seen with silk, but also on linen. a most
charming waist OF sheer linen lawn has a
tiny yoke OF linen lace In the color and
countless similar things are seen. One of
the handsomest of all the lace waists shown
Is IN the tWine shade and shows yoke and
sleeves caps of sheer white finely tucked.
YOKES THE THING.
Scalloped Jokes. pointed Jokes. yokes of
all sorts abound and are made in drop
style TO fall over the sleeves. Points are
"A fad. One sees evidence OF that fact at
every turn. Some of the Jokes so made
are charming. but of others again / would
say beware A longer point at the CEN
ter front, shorter ones from the shoulders
allow tucks and fullness where they are
most needed and are graceful and becom-
ing, but shorter points at the center, while
seen on many costly models, are dangerous
and suit few figures well. Whatever the
form of the yoke the waist below Is soft
and full and blouses at the front. A really
AONNig u Al VI lo oNAoN lHt GU
tire deep yoke of narrow bands held by fag-
otting and made with a Scalloped edge be-
low which falls a frill OF lace. Another Is
OF white batiste and shows a yoke cut
with stole extension at the front and SINH
larly shaped epaulets that is all narrow
lace insertion and fancy stitches, making
a most charming effect. One of the most
elegant OF all the silk waists 1 have seen
Is cream crepe de chine laid in the tiniest
OF tucks 10 form a yoke and below the
yoke embroidered in an intricate design
which combines the lovely soft pastel
fawns, pinks and greens in a most fascin-
ating way. The work is all done by hand
consequently being individual as well as a
very feast of color.
There are many of these embroidered
waists shown and many of them are really
exquisite while all have Il certain air of
distinction. In addition to the silks, which
are beautiful in the extreme, We have linens
that are exceedingly handsome and have
the merit of being durable as well. White
is the preferred color, but there are signs
of Bulgarian effects on white and natural
colored linen that may develop as the sea-
son advances. As a rule, the embroidered
waists are simply, even severely, made.
Tucks, gathers and the like only detract
from the effect and favorite models show
no fullness at either neck or shoulders.
Sleeves are full above the cuffs which vary
from two and a half to four and a half
inches in width.
THE TAILOR-MADE WAISTS.
The palmer, simpler waists of everyday
wear give evidence of less radical change
since last year than do these more elaborate
ones. but show certain characteristics that
mark the season nevertheless. While mad
ras, Oxford and all the familiar shirtings
are offered, white linen and the fancy mer-
cerized vestings take first place for the
earlier waists at least. Sleeves are Of the
regulation shirt sort in all those that are
tailor-made, but other models show moder-
ate fullness above the cuffs. which are two
and a half inches wide and straight. Styles
vary within these limitations, however, and
we have a generous variety of tucks and
combinations of tucks from which TO choose.
one OF our leading waist houses clings per-
sistently to these small tucks at the neck,
each side of the box plat, with a plain back
and simple shirt sleeves, and finds followers
by the score. but to my mind the slightly
less severe models are prettier. A two-inch
box plat with two groups. consisting of
two half-inch and five wee tucks between,
at each side stitched to full length and one
additional wide tuck at each shoulder
stitched TO yoke depth. make a favorite
combination. A similar plait with three
wide tucks at each side stitched to the
waist line makes the leading model of an
important maker and so the changes are
rung without any really distinctive features
TO separate these designs from those of a
year ago. / find n tendency among certain
exclusive houses to insist on tucks stitched
TO the waist. line. but | do not and cannot
approve. Perfect figures look well I'm all
AIlikS. ~ NltIl ali Styles are DDSSlbIc,
but the average woman. who is not
ideal. requires fullness over the bust. Many
waists are tucked 10 form Jokes, the tucks
being exceedingly small, and whatever else
may appear. these always can be relied
upon for good effect. One of the best mod
els. 10 my mind. shows two wide tucks. at
each side of the box plait, that are full
length. and others. in groups. that stop of
At the line of "A yoke. Many desirable de-
signs simulate box plaits. but few genuine
ones have appeared as yet. Smart waists
OF an intermediate sort. that are neither so
elaborate as some nor so severe as others,
are made OF pretty mixed linens and are
laid I'm narrow tucks arranged to simulate
box plaits. An exceedingly effective one of
the sort includes sleeves that form puns
above the cuffs and is so tucked at both
front and back. The tucks at the front are
full ength at the center, then graduated.
those at the back form two box plaits at
the center from neck TO waist. BY the way,
/ note a not altogether desirable tendency
10 this straight line at the back In many OF
the new designs. 1t is simple, IL means less