Evening star., 1904-02-27

suit. The skirts fall with an effect of ex-
treme width, as all skirts, but they are
carefully fitted at the hips to do away with
clumsineSs If tuck shirringS are used upon
a little bodice, the jupe may be treated in
the same way at the hips. Sometimes the
skirt is there tucked horizontally, but what
ever the device used for fitting, care is
taken that it does not enlarge the figure
below the belt.
AT this point the fashionable form is
in fact, singularly shrunken. as if it had
undergone a pruning to accommodate Itself
tc the new silhouette. Speaking or fhls
silhouette, and the effects which accom-
plsh it, celebrated F'renchman declares
that modern dress has an eighteenth CEN
tury flavor. Flounces, frills ruchings, rib
bon bands and elaborate sleeves of course,
tend toward this .ceremonious elegance,
which is not without its effect upon our
manners.
Women are by no means as brusque as
they once We're. And if they go on getting
softer in dress they will, of course, go
getting softer in manner till-who
knows ?-perhaps, men will come after while
to kissing their hands again. But to bark
back to the thin gowns
In an Orchid Swiss.
Orchid violet Swiss, dotted with white,
composes little frock. topped by violet
Panama sailor wreathed with purple and
violet hepaticas. The skirt has several
founces cut straight and graduating in
width, and a round yoke of white French
lace adds a becoming touch to the bodlce.
Through the stock of this violet bebe rib
bon is run, and violet mesSaline silk forms
the deep crush belt.
Few shaped flounces are seen upon the
skirts of these delicate gowns, straight cut
frillS, edged and headed sometimes with
ruchings in the dress texture being pre-
ferred. With the bodice, which is almost
always a gathered baby model, everything
is done to increase the length of the
shoulders. A lace stock, with epaulette
bands running far down upon the sleeves,
is one device employed to obtain this end
Again, the lace or other trimming used for
the yoke may be inserted in the tops of the
sleeves with ribbon or velvet suspenders,
perhaps, over the shoulders for soidity
This line is too narrow to make a marked
break, and the effect is one of very long
shouldered yoke. But for those who can
wear them this detail is often cut in one,
the lower line taking curves of many sorts
and the majority of them eXqusitely be-
coming to the figure.
The little jackets which hang from the
shoulders, since they are especially suited
to the wide silk belts, are much liked for
the thin textiles with tucking or lace or
ribbon to give them body. A French model
in pale blue mousseline displays the entire
jacket of cream lace with narrow edgings
of the same upon the skirt founces.
Long Shoulders
Not uncommonly an ornamental collar
will give the long shouldered effect, these
sometimes reaching to the top line of the
girdle. Numbers of the thin embroidered ba-
tistes and fine linens are made In this Way
the deep embroidery with tucks pleats
at the top and narrow dust ruffie under
meath forming the skirt. For these delicate
Whlte ana cream gowns a white silk belt
is sometimes arranged, and the models in
these are more frequently of soft silk than
anything else.
Here again headgear must keep pace with
summer elegance, and here the tulle and
flower hats may come in
A stylish box turban made entirely of
folds OF malineS is decked at the side backs
with loops of ribbon velvet, suggesting in
form long buckles. This hat which is
shown in black, white and color, is an ef-
fective headpiece for summer gown in
airy textiles
Boat-shaped turbans of flowers In a
matching tint are other chapeaux advised,
as well as malines brim shapes braided with
louisine and trimmed with the same.
Delightful features of the coming summer
are some pelerine scarfs In black and white
chantily few swagger miliners are
showing. These, are imported and since
they are worn like the prim mantles of the
sixties the effect of one over a suitable
gown is deliciously quaint With costume
of white chiffon shadowed with black
sprays introducing a blot of blue, one of
these mantles in black chantilly is shown.
Messalne silk in the same shade as the
blot forms the girdle of this entrancing toi-
let, which was ticketed for carriage use.
Carnage faraS0lS.
Truly. one could go on forever chronicling
the daintiness that Dame Fashion has con-
fected for woman's future glorifcation. The
tiny parasols of their mothers days-such
as only old ladies have been given to re-
cently-the women to carry again en-
voiture. Then undersleeves are to be made
to take out, ana every article of underwear
is to be fashioned to suit the slimming ten
denotes of the outside garments. In short,
women are to be more groomed than ever.
They are to be more coquettish, more
charming and with 1t all more feminine
which, after all, is the quality eternally
telling in woman's dress.
Good Things for Lent