The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-02-05
GOWNS FOR THE SUNNY SOUTH
SHOW THE COMING SPRING STYLES
The 1890 Fashions q0Hh 77Oue Century D0dJfcatOaS Are
UndOn6tedy TO Rergn and Are AMactiJs

any woman really attain distinction, yet so
! otten are otherwise shrewd buyers tempt
/ ed by merely intrinsic beauty and often
DO we see the dire results therefrom that
II would seem as though the fact were
/ often overlooked.
f, Barge, that most charming and graceful
Oh FABRICS, is to be much worn, and is found
In almost every Southern outfit. a most
4 exquisite one, that serves admirably we'll
as model for the later suits of the stay
at-homes as well as for the immediate ones
Tor the more lucky sisterhood, is woven in
/ d Tiny check, tan and white, and is made
/ over pale blue, the color effect being most
pressing one. The foundation skirt of soft
nhiSHeu tdHela IS g0red and closely ntted,
/ finished at its lower edge with a plisse
mr. but the outer skirt is amply full, plain
at the 'front.', but shirred in groups at sides
ana back. At the lower edge are three
wide tucks with two plisse friIls above and
| at Knee depth are two tucks with one frill
ABOVE, all The frills terminating at the left
| OF the front, where they are curved upward
ana nnished with small fiat rosettes. The
coat is blouse that droOps over a wide
| dfaped belt that combines blue silk with
striped, white and gunmetal gray. There
| Is sort full front of blue chiffon, with
standing collar, and the blouse proper shows
three horizontal tucks, while at the neck
( Is shallow yoke of the striped silk that
| Is cut 10 form points at the shoulders, and
below II falls a wide, pointed bertha or
| little cape of white fillet net overlaid with
| motlts OF ecru embroidery which is edged
| with tiny plisse frili of the barege. The
sleeves are big pufts, tucked and trimmed
|
| droop over deep cuffs of hllet lace and
| applique TO match the bertha. The blue
with the tan and white is most charming,
| ana the stripes give a Frenchy touch that
| seems only to be described as chic while
the whole costume is model of grace; but
any NUMBER or good results can be obtained
| with FEWER materials, and, indeed, such are
safer by far for all but the expert. The
Partisan designer knows just how to COM
| pine the stripes of silk with the checked
barege to add to the effect, but in the dress
| makers art, as in other more vital matters,
| II often Is but step from the sublime,
the exquisite, 10 the ridiculous. and at
| tempted copies often are hopeleSSly bad.
| What the costume does serve for admira-
| bly, well, however, is a model of cut and of
lines which are truly graceful. and which
| would still remain even though the COM
| Dlnatlon were far less elaborate.
| UTILITY COSTUMES.
travelling and general utility costumes
are made from the new mohairs and from
| hght-weight cheviots and tweeds, but those
| or m0halr are somewhat newer and have
| the great merit of shedding dust and of
being light in weight. Some are striped,
] some plaid. but there is a great prefer
ence shown for the latter, which are green
and blue or green, blue and black and quite
| small. Among the stripes dark blues and
browns predominant, but are woven to give
stripes of quite different effects, while color
| is all one. and are fecked with white. a
most useful and stylish travelling costume
| is the plaid and combines one of the latest
| killed skirts with severe Elton jacket,
| such being decreed among other good
| Things. The jacket calls for no special de-
| scription, being plain with coat sleeves and
| regulation collar and lapels, but the skirt
! is novel; Front and sides are circular and
| meet killed tiounoe that is slightly gradu-
| ated, of about knee depth at the front, and
| the two meet a full-length Killed back
| that is quite narrow and pressed very flat.
Inc circular portion is hemmed and
| al f1a fho lott aI
| portions are attached and it's back edges
| are held by handsome buttons, the skirt
| just clearing the ground. a more elaborate
| walking costume is of supple cloth in plain
| blue and is trimmed with velvet white
| cloth and cream lace. The skirt, which
also includes a killed fiounce, is made with
| the upper plain portion extending to the
| back in severest habit style, but terminal
| ing at the edges of the front gore, which is
| plain and narrow and cut in one with the
| iounce. This upper portion is cut to form
| points at the front and shows all its
edges piped with velvets, while the plaits OF
| the fiounce are stitched for about One-third
| of their length The coat is an Elton, with
signify pointed fronts and an applied por-
| ton that extends over the shoulders on to
| the sleeves and at both front and back to
give q pelerine suggestion, and the inevita-
| bic broad shoulders, while the neck is fin
| ished with fat-shaped collar Of velvet
| piped with white cloth and the fronts with a
narrow vest of the same finished with stole
ends of lace. The sleeves are wide and
| quite new in coats of the sort, but eminently
becoming and smart They are in bell shape
with velvet applications at their edges and
fall over full puffS of the heavy lace that
are gathered into deep velvet cuffs. A suit
of intermediates sort, one that is useful
for many occasions, is made of finest cloth
In hunters green and is combined with oyS-
ter-whfte cloth, overlaid with waved silk
braid showing old rose, green and white
and with self-colored velvet. In this last in
stance the skirt Is quite untrimmed, but is
plated in groups Of three. The Elton is a
plain and smoothly fitted one, but is over
a Slappd norton al pY
tends over the shoulders and gives sug-
gestion OF the cape effect, while in reality
stitched fiat The neck shows the universal
fiat collar, which is of velvet, and there is a
tiny vest of the white cloth and braid,
while the sleeves are shaped to form puffs
below the elbows and are held by deep cuffs
that suggest the gauntlet shape and are
finished at their upper edges with bands of
oyster cloth edged with velvet
THINNER MATERIALS.
Linens and all similar materials are seen
both in shirtwaist style and with fancy
waists, as well as made into jacket suits
One notable fact is the return of the cir
cuar flounce. and another is the odd way
in which berthas and upper portions of
sleeves are cut in one, so making no divid-
ing line at ALL A most charming reseda
linen is. for example, combined with a
heavy white lace yoke and shows a wide
bertha and dropping sleeves of this sort.
The sleeves are cleverly shaped and some
where join the underS, the two together
being gathered into cuffs, but TO the casual
observer the method is a mystery, for no
seams are in view. Again we see charming
costumes mode with skirts and triple capeS
of linen worn with finest lingerie waists.
which show cuffs and collar of the linen or
some touch or touches that connect them
Herewith, giving suggestion of odd
waists. A really lovely one combines violet
with white and shows the skirt of heavy
linen trimmed with bands of the material
embroidered with French knots, while the
capes are edged with bands, below which
are falls of heavy lace. and extend only to
the edges of the vest front of the blouse.
YOkeS of the drop sort and very deep, too
are seen, and these are often made of
bands of the material forming a lattice
through which the sheer muslin of the
bodice appears. All sorts of novelties, in
fact. shown. and skirts are made in
countless variations that and all give
the same general outline. One OF the new
est shows a yoke that is extended to form
a narrow front, side and back cores while
between these are others shirred at their
upper edges and joined to the yoke. With
this the waist is a blouse, with deep drop
yoke, edged with point de Venise, and full.
wide sleeves held by deep cuffs of lace, the
entire gown being white.
MAY MANTON.