The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1904-10-07
HOLY OF HOLES OF BUDDHISM.
THE JO-kANG IN LHASA LONG
BARRED TO STRANGERS.
Great Treasure House OF q Country and a
Faith-Courts and Chambers Of Great
Antiquity-Shrines and Bowls OF Butter
Most Famous Idol In the World
and Ifs IninreSAiYe EurrOundinKs.

and Its Impressive Surroundings.
1t is not always realized that it Is in the
Cathedral OF Lhasa. not in the pa!a % outside,
that the spiritual life OF Tibet and Of the
countless millions Of Northern Buddhism ID
wholly centred. The policy of isolation
which has for so long been the chief char
acteristic OF the faith finds it's fullest ex-
preston In the fanatical jealousy with which
this temple, the heart and focus OF Lam
aism, has been safeguarded against the
strangers intrusion.
What Tibet is to the rest Of the world,
what Lhasa is to Tibet, that the Jo-kang
Is to Lhasa, says the London Times, and IL
In not entirely clear, in spite OF more than
one so-called description of the interior,
that any European, or even native spy,
has ever before ventured inside There
has, perhaps, been reason enough for this.
1t is possible that pardon for having visited
the city of Lhasa, or the Potala Palace
which is in comparison almost place Of
resort-might have been obtained on terms,
but there could hardly have been a re-
prieve for the lucklees intruder once dis
covered inside these darkened and window
less quadrangles. Certainly neither the
ground plan published by Giorgi in the
eighteenth century nor any Of the detailed
accounts published more recently suggest
that their authors had any first hand &C.
quaintance with the place.
The exterior is devoid OF either beauty
or dignity. The interior, on the other
hand, is unquestionably the most important
and interesting thing in Central Asia. 1t
is the treasure house and kaabah, not OF
the country only, but Of the faith, and it is
curious that. while the magnificent Potala
is a casket containing nothing either ancient
or specially venerated, the priceless gems
OF the Jo-kang should be housed in build
ing which literally has no outside walls at
all. All round the Cathedral the dirty
and Insignificant council chambers and
offices. in which the affairs OF Tibet are de-
bated and administered, lean like parasites
against it for support huddled together
and obscuring the sacred structure to which
they owe their stability.
Exclusion from its sacred precincts is
officially pronounced against those also who
have incurred the suspicion or displeasure
Of the ruling hierarchy Of Lhasa, and it is a
curious proof Of the autoratic power which
is exercised, with regard to this cathedral,
as well as Of the insgniicance of the suze-
rainty, that on Aug. II in this year the
Viceroy himself, going in state to the Jo-
kang to offer prayer on the occasion Of the
Chinese Emperor's birthday, had the door
shut in his face. To this insult the oppor-
tunity I have enjoyed Of examining the
temple with a fu1ness that would other
wise have been impossible was due.
Anxious to retaliate, the Amban-who
was on subsequent day grudgingly per-
mitted to visit the ground floor only of the
building-used our presence in Lhasa to
teach the keepers Of the cathedral lesson
in manners At any rate. to our surprise
definite invitation was one day extended
to one or two Of the members Of the mission
to make a morning visit into Lhasa for the
purpose OF examining the treasures Of the
innermost sanctuary OF Buddhism. It was
accepted. A Chinese guard of the resi-.
sophisticated ianoes, provided our escort,
and Immediately upon our arrival the
great doors, half hidden in the shadow
Under the many -pillared propylon, were
opened and at once barred again behind U.S.
just in front, aeeh throt gn forest OF
pillars, was an open and veranda courted
yard. Its great ago was at once apparent.
The paintings on the walls were barely
distinguishable throu gh Il heavy cloak Of
dirt and grease. and 1t was difficult to i'm
agine the colors with which the capitals
of the pillars and the ra ftered roof over
head had originally been painted. The
court is open to the sky and is surrounded
by none Of the small chapes which are the
chief feature Of the inner quadrangles OF
the Jo-kang. The architecture is Of the
kind lnvariable in religious bL ildings in
roof overhead, each supporting on small
capital a large braoketed abacus, violated
and curved on both sides and charged in
the centre with panel OF archaic carving.
The wooden doors which secure both en-
traces Of the first court are OF INNER SO
size, heavily barred. and embossed with
fligree ring plates Of great age.
At the opposite end OF the court all open
door communicates with the second court,
revealing a bright mass Of hollyhocks,
snapdragon and stocks, vivid In the sun.
The sanctity OF the temple obviously in
creased AZ we venture into this inner court.
It's sides are honeycombed by small dark
chambers, apparently built in the thick
ness OF the enormous wall Each Is an idol
crowded sanctuary. Into these obscure
shrlnes one stcmbles, bent almost doE BILE
to avoid the dirt Of the low greasy Intel
ish anything more than the dim
OF times OF an altar in the middle OF the
chamber. On 1t stand one CT two copper
or brass bowls filed high with butter, each
hearing on its half concealed surface q
dimly Burning wick in little. pool of self
thawed oil. These dim beads Of yellow
light provide all the illumination ofthe cave.
and after a little one can st disting, sh
the solemn images SOU atting round the walls,
betrayed by POINTS and rims OF light. re-
fiected here and there froIr the projections
and edges Of golden draperifs or features.
The smell is abou inab BILE. The air Is
exhausted and charged with rancid vapors.
Everything one touches drips with grease.
The fumes OF burning butter have in the
course OF many generations filmed over
the surfaces and clogged the carving OF
ioors and walls alike. The floor under
loot il slippery az glass. Upon this recep-
tive foundation the Crime and reek OF
have steadily descended, with
results that may be imagined. Except
that the images theTsel apparently
receive from time TO tire a perfunctory
wipe with the greasy rag which is generally
10 be found in conspicuous place beside
, Tibetan altar. there IL not in one OF these
numerous chapels the slightest sign of
respect or care.
Once under the eastern end OF the Jo-
tang, one finds the darkness deepen fast
There In no light but such as can find its
way nnder the wide half roofs and through
he trellises, screers and awnings which
almost entirely close in the central court.
In the gloom one passes by ancient chapel
after chapel, where the dim half light
barely reveals the existence OF the dark
-eoees guarded by it's iron screen The
walls share with the smooth worn
pillars the burden of the warped rafters
overhead. The stone slabs nderfoot are
worn into channel, and the Crime OF n