The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-01-14
Panama City Of To-Day and Panama
Of old, Once a Scar Of Spanish Glory

there are plenty in Panama. There is here,
as L have already explained, some social
activity but this touches only the better
class of the permanent population. For the
transient and for the lower classes there is
absolutely nothing of interest Once mar
row-gauge single-track trolley line mean
dered aimlessly i.bout the streets, but that
has fallen into disuse and as Panama takes
on the quiet Of absolute solitude at sun
down, the place is duIlness personified. Once
in while there is a band concert in one
of the plazas in the early hours of the
evenlng-just across the street from my
hotel band is at this moment Industrious
ly engaged in trying to murder "Hia-
watha." These concerts draw only men,
however, an unwritten law seeming to drive
all women from the streets at nightfall
This paucity OF Understanding surround
ings extends to the homes and hotels. IL
would be a difficult matter to determine
which is the more barren-the home or the
residences. hotels and public structures-are
built in the form of hollow square, with
balconies facing both the street and the in
court. All buildings are alike In several
particulars. 1 have yet to find one that is
not occupied on its ground-foor for COM
mercial purposes, popularity which re-
suits In making all residence quarters
above ground Except in store buildings
which have show windows-and these lat
ter are mean little affairs-the use of glass
is unknown. There are openings for win
dows, closeable by inside shutters; but
what is the use of wasting money on win
dow frames and glass panes when the mer-
curry never goes below so degrees, and when
there are neither curtains, carpets or up
holstered furniture-things absolutely un-
known hereto be spoiled by beating rains
Every house in Panama is alike, too, I'm the
matter of water supply-three only being
excepted. In the favored three there is an
attempt at furnishing running water by
OF these three one is the Grand Hotel Cen
tral-one of the worst hostelries in the
world. but the best on this side of the 18TH
mus-one is the residence OF Bishop jon
m "a I'd fu aVit "A
THE CITY'S MEAN WATER SUPPLY.
In every other building the water supply
is restricted to what can be caught and
stored In rain barrels, and to what is pur-
chased from the vendors of water. whose
barrel carts are constantly perambulating
about the streets. Just outside the main
city, along the line of the railroad and In
the meanest section of the native section,
is line of unsightly water holes dignihed
by the name OF wells. These holes are un-
protected; about them live the most de-
PRAYED OF the native and negro inhabitantsi
the surroundings are indescribably squalid
and filthy; but this is Panamas only source
Of fresh water supply aside from the rain
water All day long line of two-wheeled
barrel carts, drawn by mules and ponies
larger than the PONIES Of Shetland, joys out
TO these water holes. There the barrels are
filled, and returning, the line OF carts loses
Itself under the streets, where water is
"hawked" at cents Colombian silver the
two-gaIlon measurefui. In the dry season
when the store OF rain water has been
exhausted. Panama has to rely upon these
holes. and the price of water jumps enOr-
mously, having gone as high as 60 cents
(silver) a gallon. is IL any wonder that
water is a luxury in this place; that bath
tubs and shower baths are unknown? She
is one of the few women ia Panama who
uses water instead of powder said a
young American naval officer the other day
as a senorita well known here passed the
hotel-a remark more true than poetic, but
easily explained by what / have said about
the cty's water supply.
Such conditions as | have described are
too deep-rOoted TO be easily changed,
though vast Improvement will quickly foi-
low the application Of American energy
Panama Will not, therefore, ever become a
gay capital, nor will II ever draw sight
seers or vacationists. 1t will. however. be
come a place OF Importance in the commerce
ial equation, for here will center the adj
ministrative work in connection with the
construction and operation of the canal
Just now, however, the business OF the
place Is of little consequence.
PANAMAIANS LIVE IN HOPE
1t is confined almost entirely 10 supply
ing the staple requirements of the local
population. There are two or three whole
sale dealers who maintain depots for the
distribution OF merchandise. but their activ-
ity is local. The pearl fisheries. which are
managed here but owned In Paris. is the
only commercial enterprise which brings
Panama in contact with the outside world
. as a producer, the popular idea that Pana-
hats are made here being entirely fall
lacious. These hats are made In Guayaquil
Ecuador, 800 miles from Panama, and
more rare here by far than they are
in the States. The retail trade in the city
except for the poor and insignificant
native portion-is almost exclusively In the
hands OF the French and Chinese. the lat
ter being the most important. Three steam
ship companies-the Pacific Mail South
American and Pacific Steam Navigation
maintain a regular service 10 the isthmus
Their business rs, however. restricted 10
transisthmian shipments. and since the La
Boca terminal OF the railroad Is completed
IL no longer passes through Panama proper
though the city's people handle and profit
from il.
Such is Panama. city which may be
said TO be slowly expiring OF hamilton. To-
day IL Is poor, dirty, squalid and pestilen-
tial Tomorrow its people hope 20 see IL
rich. clean, prosperous and healthy. all
their dreams OF a change SO complete turn
ing upon their belief that THE canal II
coming" MERRILL A. TEAGcE.