The Jersey City news., 1904-10-21

to the dressmaker. be she amateur or
professional. as well as to the tailor.
Dame Fashion still demands that the
slender, .sloping hip be maintained, and
so the minimum of bulk at this spot is
imperative. Just how to accomplish
this and and still attain the correct
width sat the hem is the problem that
vexes the soul of the dressmaker, and
the more so when she has stout figure
to contend with. But the one-seam skirt
that Demands the double width crepe de
chine accomplishes this beautifully. and
its softly hanging folds are simply bound
to add height and slenderness to even
the shortest and most dumpy figures.
While the cut in skirts is pretty much
the same for all classes of figure, it is in
the disposal of the trimming and the
trimming schemes that the smart coutu-
riere makes her most conspicuous tri-
umphs. And the trimmings are all so ell
aboratei Incrustations of lace are bor
dered and defined with rufflings and ruch-.
ings of the tiniest ribbons The lace it
self is beaded and spangled in the fairest
of effects. Braids and braidings, tax the
ingenuity of the designer to provide new
patterns and devise new appearances.
Fluted, shirred. puffed and corded bands,
are all in good standing and may be APP
piled either in plain, straight lines, or in
wavy effects. intersecting circles and the
like. Indeed, almost any sort of a trim
ming scheme can be carried out and still
De well within the pale,of fashion.
yoke effects are seen on many of the inn
ported models of those sheer crepes. The
stimulation of yoke is there, but it is
merely that the skirt, to conform to the
mode. is built in several sections. Indeed
the sectional skirt is the simplest and cas-
lest solution of present problems. When
the figure is slender the upper part is
sometimes disposed in shirred puffs. then
a tucked band to the knee, the tucks run
ming lengthwise. viii offset the fore
shortening effect of the little puffs, and
from there the skirt is applied in full
folds that will measure at least eight TO
ten yards at the hem A broad facing
of velveteen either ON the hem or in place
of it will give just the right amount of
body to the soft crepe de chine, and the
fact tlgat one can match all shades in the
velveteen bindings, either in the cut
stripes or by the yard, makes this item
all the more desirable.
The fancy for. transparent effects
around the throat and shoulders is one
that holds very firm place in the affec-
tons of the smart dresser. There is
simply no other effect that is so univer
sally becoming. that will lend a dressier
effect at more moderate cost than this
same yoke design Usually it is carried
out in lace, and a chiffon lining is placed
underneath so that there is no hint or
suggestion of baroness Almost any
kind of lace is used There are the
coarse laces. the Russian guipures. the
Irish crochet and other weaves of bold
and striking design. The Italian flet
laces, with their quaint figures darned
and interviewer on a square mesh, and
the modern reproduction of the convent
laces are in high demand; while the
fine meshes, the point de gaze, the point
d'Alencon and the like. with all of the
fine machine-made nets. the repousse,
the boule de neige-the latest fancy,
which shows chenille ball on net
baekground-any and all Of these are
delightfully."- appropriate with the crepe
de chine gown.
The way that fashionable folk have
adopted the crepe de chine craze is real
ly something to marvel at. One sees it
in the smartest of shirtwaist suits for
morning wear, with the skirt that clears
the ground and just shows the tip Of
the shiny, black leather shoe. One sees
it in the more. elaborate luncheon and
afternoon frock. where frills and laces
are called upon to add to the dressy
effect. And one sees it all of the newest
tones, in the novel coral and geraniun
pinks. the new almond olive and bronze
green in the shot, the printed and the
damasse effects for the handsonlest of