New-York tribune., 1904-08-06
FRENCH GOWNS AT ST. LOUIS.
Some Exhibits Give Hints OF Fashions for
Autumn.

I've sometimes thought thac the French novel
and the French dressmaker are both responsible
for creating a very wrong impression Of French
social conditions remarked New-York matro7
TO her pretty young married daughter
The two women we're standing in that part ot The
French section in the Manufacturers Building at
s. Louis which Is devoted 10 the creations ~ IA
nous Partisan dressnakers.
we have both OF us lived IN France and know
well enough that the majority of French homes
are not invaded by love affairs and also that all
French women even OF the upper classes. do not
put all on their back or wear even
ing gowns sewn with jewels and iucrusted with
costly laces all day long But 70 look at this dis
plav one would naturally conclude they did These
Partisan rnoulders of fashion don, seem 10 think
q worth their while 10 cut walking skirt say, or
taiIor-made suit ary more than the French
novel,sts think IL worth while 70 depict the plain
everyday. unclever. yirtuous woman
a SPLENDID COLLECTION.
The same thought has most likely occurred to
other visitors 70 this splendid collection OF uxuri
Gus gowns Take. for example. that gown Of flet
net with the gold and silver threads darned back
and forth from waist 10 knee. Il is almost bar
bart, in the gorgeousness Of its color effects At
the knee the threads begin 10 shape themselves into
IN ornate dado the leading motif oS which IS the
thistle developed in the natural thistle shades
crystal beads, gold and silver sequ.ns and lace
fringe Of silken rose petals Of delicate pink falls
beneath forming the foundation or underskirt, of
rre dress These rose petals also form the rippes
in which the sleeves OF pink chiffon terminate at
the elbows
As for the bodice this IS cut square back and
front The gold threaded lace mesh is slightly
bIousad into A narrow pointed belt Of velvet
broidered n gold. while q oerthalike arrange
rnent introduces the thistle embroidery note again
But mother" repE~d the younger woman. per
hans IL is that the other kind Of novels and the
other kind OF dresses don't get far -. Louis
or Nev,-York They make them. but they think
Americans would not like them. or they may con-
slider THAI this style Of gown is capable Of making
the most brilliant display, and consequently will
advertise them better So they send it,
10 WALKING COSTUMES
The truth Of the matter probably Is that the
walking costume. the American or English
woman knows il. never was is not and probably
never will be the object OF much enthusiasm on
the part os French women or French dressmakers.
French women do not walk as Anglo-Saxon wom-
en- walk. and they have consequently less use for
the short skirted, smart. everyday affair
II IS the evening gown and the more elaborate
day toilet which by their susceptibility 10 dainty
exrravagances and the most wonderful rednements
Of sttchery appeal strongly TO the genius OF the
Parsian costume artist Such gowns, too. possess
4 real fascination for nearly every kind OF woman.
whether she be the woman who dons some ex-
quisite confecdon in cobwebby laces and silks every
/ night OF her life the woman who never owned
a low necked gown in her life and wouldn't know
how - wear one If she had IL
\ lovely white gown IL the French section IS
/ built Of white taIeta. ShIrTed heaFly around the
4 hips whence it falls in an old fashioned hounce.
! Al the knees 1t is caught into 4 band OF ermine,
: The hem IS finished off with another band Of the
The skirt shows novel departure in the form Of
( a panel down the front, IN which passemeatere
/ ornaments IN black and white silk cord combine
Rith gold and silver thread and black velvet ribbon
! To produce rich effect
nite lace forms the yoke and vest Of the bodice.
which is cut high at the hips and IS SHARPLY pointed
+ back and front. 4 scarf Of ernline IS draped
/ around the shoulders along The line where yoke
ana bodice meet ends in front the bust line
J r-{rF, Fall
quarter length and end in frils Of lace and
WHITE CLOTH GOWN.
A,othcr Of the white dresses IS developed in cloth.
The skirt is heavily embroidered in pailettez and
/ creRels combined with sable. ermine and Italian
Met lace The bodice is IN Eton (or Figaro as the
French call i5 of lace and fur worn ever chiffon
/ one of the costumes which has ELECTED most
praise from feminine visitors Is Of WHINE broad
Directoire coat Stitched folds Of cloth alternate
/ witt appilques OF Renaissance lace, bands Of
golden brown velvet embroidery and small buttons
J Of velvet overspun with sold threads TO form 4
! trimming from the knee TO hem
PcrhaDs the chief feature Of the coat is the vest
/ Of ~elop, lace over satin which Is fastened
the skirt Half way 10 the waist there IS "a jabot
/ OF lace caught up with an ornament Of goG and
silk cords, and The waist Inc IS aened with belt
and ivory belt buckle The Jacket IS oorucTed IN
brown velvet appliques outlined with gold thread.
White, however. hardly occupies the prominent
place In the exhibition that one might expect.
These Partisan artists evidently riot in color and
( apply II laVishly. The glass case Of
firm contains gowns In which bright orange COM
bines Tith deep rose pink ana scarlet with tur-
In an evening dress coral satin is the foundation
material. and sprays OF arunelal howe-S in the
same shc1- are introduced among the festooned