The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-04-10

hand-run tucking seems to be a. ponr-
lar form of decoration, and one m.
lends itself admirably to the panaIeS
skirt and the short jacket. A prettJ,
model in brown satin armure has
skirt built in three sections, arranoaT
on either side of the panel front
These sections, not unlike three dean
flounces, are decorated with the hand
run tucks in wavy pattern, but the
paneled front is plain. The short. coll
larless eton has no trimming excen,
the tucks, an edging of twisted and
stitched velvet ribbon to simulate
braid, and tiny dull gold buttons. The
sleeves are slashed in a fanciful nat
tern and filled in with ruflles of plisse
mousseline.
Equally quaint is a satin arnlure in
dark green, which carries shirrings so
arranged as not to destroy the lines
of the figure. The shirrings are fash
Toned on heavy cords, so adjusted as
to follow the lines of the seams in
the long, trailing plain skirt, dear to
the heart of her who would be vii
Lowry. To simulate a hounce, there is
a heading of curved, double shirrings
which run around the skirt, where the
lengthwiSe shirrings stop, and above
this runs line of chiffon and silk me-
dallions in the same tint as the silk.
The bodice also is shirred, with a
narrow girdle, and spreading bell
sleeves. An 1880 sloping collar OF
lace and undersleeves of the same
pattern complete this dressy gown.
An Effective Calling Costume.
Brown sicilienne enters into the con-
struction of a simple but effective
calling costume. The skirt has a front
panel defined by strapping of silk,
and double flounce effect is simu-
lated on the sides by strappings Of
stitched silk. The jacket is simple,
but extremely dressy, being an eton
formed of three cape-like sections,
each bound with stitched silk and fall
ing loosely over the pointed and fitted
girdle. The sleeve is a single puff
caught into a dropping cuff, beneath
which the inevitable ruff1e of lace falls
over the hand. The distinctive feat
ure of the suit is the vest-like front,
made from suede heavily braided and
embroidered in gold. With this is
worn hat of brown straw, faced with
white and trimmed with white gulls.
The pleated eton has it's adherents.
especially for wear with pleated skirts.
Champagne colored violet lends itself
admiral bly, to a double pleated skirt,
stitched down over the hip curve and
pressed so that they retain the fare.
The eaton is pleated to shallow shoul-
der yoke, and falls loosely back and
front over a silk girdle with sash
ends at the back. Bell-shaped sleeves
are finished with triple fiounces of &C
Gordon pleated valenciennes, and the
revers on the sleeves as we'll as the
rolling color of the Jacket are Of
Point de Venise medallions. The
sash, girdle, ribbon stole and orna-
ments on the sleeves and collar are all
of soft silk, in a tone of brown which
harmonizes perfectly with the cham
payne colored wolfe. The silken orna-
ments are particularly quaint.
Old Fashioned Tones.
Even in the weave Of the silks, old
fashioned tones and designs are intro
duced, such as steel blue grounds with
dark blue checks. With this pattern
of silk comes the inevitable shirring Or
gauging, as the English call it, In
dainty frock diminutiYe pleats held the
skirt in shape at the waist, and the
flare around the foot was attained by
means of cores cunningly inserted.
Two-inch ruff1es of the silk. closely
shirred, were edged with velvet and set
about two inches apart. The little ruff
fies were also employed on the bodice
to give long, sloping shoulder effect,
and tapering down to the pointed belt,
like a sober, puffy f1chu.
With this was worn a dainty wrap
of blue velvet in the darker tint shown
in the silk. and elaborated with tiny
rutties of very fine lace in the form OF
a jabot and undersleeves.
Were a bonnet of velvet with silvery
grapes worn with this, the costume
might seem to have stepped from some
1880 portrait, but the Illusion is de-
stroyed by the use of a picture hat in
blue maline of three shades, with
DlumeS 70 match