The Savannah morning news., 1904-06-26
New Wrinkles in
fuckers, ChemiSetteS
and Half

Among the graceful accessories for
summer costumes which came in with
the 1880 fashions, none have been
more eagerly welcomed than half
sleeves, chemisettes and fuckers. But
for the vogue of old-fashioned names
and styles, the latter would be called
detachable Jokes, but the tucker is
quainter and more appropriate to the
sloping shoulder lines and voluminous
skirts.
BY the use of fuckers and half
sleeves, the summer girl with a limit
ed wardrobe can convert her party
gown into just the right thing for d
garden party or porch tea. A young
girl who can boast as an heirloom
some exquisitely fine duchesse lace
edging has just completed such set
for use with an organdy frock. The
gown itself has a delicate rose pat
tern. The skirt is shirred and the
blouse has Dutch neck, outlined
with shirring. which runs down in
three rows on the puffed elbow
sleeves. With a sash of pale, soft pink
ribbon, tied in butterfly bows at inter
valcs on the long ends, this gown is
just the thing for an evening hop.
II OF oil dlISIIlOOIl luIlClfOIl, It's
young owner has evolved the tucker
and half sleeves of pure white organ
dy and the ducheSse lace. The half
sleeves are formed of three gradu-
ated flounces. each run in three hand
worked tUcks an eighth of an inch
wide and edged with lace. The tucker
is shirred to follow exactly the lines
Of the shirring on the blouse, each
cording being outlined by the lace
held loosely, but not gethered too full
and the lace also finishes the top of
the soft. crush collar.
For linen dresses, the most suitable
fuckers and half-sleeves are those
made from finely plated lawn, edged
with valenciennes or Oriental lace.
Sometimes insertion is also used
above the hem, but the general effect
suggests that the dainty accessories
will tub beautifully.
For voile and canvas frocks, nets of
every description are desirable for
half-sleeves. They come in pure white,
cream and ecru of natural color, with
laces to match. Finely tucked and ac-
cordion-pleated brussels, net or point
desprit are most popular and clean
fine torchon laces are used for edging
the net. Oriental lace is pretty, but
does not always launder well, and the
heavier edges and galloons, such as
meohlin, poina de venise and point
dalencon, are employed if the half
sleeves are to be worn with sum-
mer fabrics of heavier weight
For the elaborate frock of summer
silk or mousseline there is nothing
more effective than a tucker and half
sleeves of repousse lace, net top
with graduated dots. Plain or APP
pliqued chiffon is combined in
dancing dresses with all-over lace
or net
A charming dinner dress, to be
worn by young matron. was of ierre
all-over, with a jacket showing three
quarter bell sleeves. The under sleeves
were puffs of chiffon, laid in tucks
an inch and a half deep, and the
tucker was of shirred chiffon. The
shirrings ran up and down from the
deep yoke line to the top of the collar
which gave the wearer remark
able slender look and sloping shoulder
line.
An exquisite gray voile afternoon
gown had half -sleeves and tucker of
white chiffon overlaid with gray silk
cluny, and gray crepe de chine
showed a tucker of Irish point ALL
over and pointed half-sleeves ruffles of
the same lace.
For surplice waists laid in folds, a
pretty contrast is afforded by chem
issette or vest of plain embroidery or
lace, and a tight-fitting half-sleeve to
match, the upper sleeve being made in
puff and edged with a f1ounce. A
surplice waist shown in champagne
messaline had a chemisette and half
sleeves, plain and smooth-fitting, of
Spanish lace over chiffon.
The tucker and half-sleeves must be
fitted as carefully as the blouse prop
er, and the junction of blouse and
tucker must be carefully concealed
When the blouse Is made from trans
parent material, tucker and sleeves
must be basted In. Where the outer
blouse is not transparent. the tucker
may be made on an abbreviated waist
pattern. which is cut off and hemmed
Just below the arms eye. This keeps
the tucker in place
If tucker and half-sleeves are not
fulled, but are made OF tight-ft fitting
all-over lace or embroidery, to be
worn under an Opaque material like
linen and silk It Will pay TO make
them on "A fine lawn waist lining. The
blouse then slips down over them,
and no hooks or hastings are neces-
sary to keep them in place The 1904
st. les are loose and voluminous, but
never sloppy" or untidy