davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-04-16

woman who hopes to become repre-
sentative of that refinement which is
the chief ornament of womanhood or
girlhood. 1t is rare that one sees
French people dressed out of keeping
with their surroundings or position. In
the latter half of the nineteenth centu-
ry a noted woman of France, Nine. de
Girardin said: style ought inevitably
to vary according to the position and
age. 1t should fit itself to the fortune,
to the habits to the FORM to the cir
cumstances and, indeed, to every detail
in the life of those who wish to appear
its leaders, This truism is as real to-
day as at the time it was written. but
unfortunately, outside Of Ia belle France
this fitting of self to ones sphere is
honored more in the breach than in the
observance.
But. to return to gowns, two charming
spring promenade toilets which await
time and place to blossom forth are de-
signed as follows One, a biscuit wolfe
piped with satin, has down each front
of the plated skirt little tabs, through
which is drawn a silk cord of the same
shade finished by a tassel at the end.
The bodice is strung in like manner
with cord and has cape empiecements
of wolfe over the bouffant sleeves. A
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-04-16
Modes of the Moment.

Dame Fashion has taken US at last
into her confidence and is revealing her
mOdistic triumphs for early spring wear
As has been predicted, the influence of
old world modes has subtly inspired the
prettiest ideas for many of the seasons
creations. A charming afternoon gown
is carried out in suede cloth of a tender
vert pastel shade. The skirt is made in
triples tuniques. and each Of these is
bordered with a band of dark green vel
vet headed with silver and bleu de ciel
braid. The bolero coat has a collar of
1880 persuasion trimmed with bands of
the same velvet and braid It opens
over an ecru muslin blouse, which is
daintily trimmed with cascade of lace
down the front. A little green velvet
cravat and a turnover muslin collar
give a pleasing finish at the throat.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-04-16

has its three TERED skirt formed OF
English embroidered hounces, the en-
broidery running bretelle fashion over
the waist The very elaborate sleeves,
fiounced at the top. gather into a wide
band of embroidery, from which hangs
the too often seen lingerie lace ruffIe-
An innovation over here is the elastic
corset Of woven silk with not a particle
Of whalebone in its makeup. This af-
fair fits the form like a glove and is
ideal to wear under the frOcks Of today
Quite new departure is seen in the
spring lingerie, or, rather, in an eccen-
trio branch of it-black Grecian null
sets made in the empire style and
lavishly trimmed with black chantilly
lace in entire deux. Still another ultra
fad is for blue linen underwear, al
though the most exclusive mondaine
viii select crystalline linen as the mate
rial for her summer lingerie.
The straight, old fashioned scarf of
rare lace or of embroidered muslin in
a variety of colors has taken the place
of the winter stole. The smart spring
suits have little shawl shaped paletots
reaching hardly to the elbow made of
the frock material and trimmed in har-
mony with the dress garnitures. They
are very fetching and useful wraps,
particularly as this delightful spring
has been lingering rather longer than
usual in the lap of winter.
The uppermost question of the day is
headgear. The milIiners' efforts this
season are certainly crowned with tri-
umphaI success. and there is a hat for
every type of face. Lace viii play an
important role in millinery, while flow
ers and straw embroidery are the chief
decorations. Peach color is adopted in
straw of two tones on some of the
toques and draped with lace dyed to
match. The new delft blue is a favorite
shade and the delicate nuances of Law
ender are combined with soft petal rose.
This seasons close fitting hats have
brims projecting in front and rather
low crowns. These hats to be worn
properly are not tilted, but placed
suuarely on the head. Straw roses and
kind of erin mousseline floral trim
ming are effective, but promise to be
copied in the small shops. The chapeau
de style and picture hats have increased
in size, and all the skill of the Partisan
modiste is brought into play in the
combinations of color and arrangements
of flowers on these classical chapeaux-
noticed several large affairs with
crowns completely made of tiny roses
and brinls swathed in shaded tulle, with
a repetition of lace and roses applied
closely to the edge of the brim.
CATHERINE TALBOT.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-04-16

That rapid eating is slow suicide
That happy children are almost in
variabIy healthy children
That in sleeping in a cold room you
should establish a habit of breathing
through the nose; never with the mouth
open
That a severe parOxysm OF coughing
may be arrested by a tablespoonful of
glycerin in wineglass of hot milk
That cold water is the salvation Of
the complexion It strengthens the
skin by stimulating the circulation and
renders it almost proof against chaps
and eruptions. When the skin needs
cleaning, warm water is absolutely
necessary.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-04-16

tall vase with the plants and let them
trail in graceful profusion around the
base and wind in long tendrils over a
hoop placed from side to side of the
urn.
Since everything Japanese is espe-
cially appreciated these days the impe-
rial Japanese morning glory will appeal
to lovers of the Land of the Rising Sun.
It has flowers of immense size, some of
which are brilliant red and rich blue,
while others are equally brilliant with
broad margins of clear white. A pc
culiarity of this climber is that the To-
Hage is as varied as the blossoms and
is a yellow or yellowish green, more the
tones of the melancholy days of fall
when nature dons the scar and yellow
leaf. This unusual feature is the impe-
rial morning glory's greatest charm.
Nothing is lovelier than the sweet
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-04-16

pea, beloved of Keats, ION tiptoe for
flight" There is no excuse for a gar
dener, however humble, to ignore this
most exquisite of our garden favorites.
Sweet peas must be sown now and at
intervals of about two weeks up to
June and planted deep; otherwise they
are not successful. There are ten va
rieties of these attractive blossoms, in
Guiding delicate rose, nauve, sky blue.
white and so on down the rainbow of
colors. Have you ever seen a hedge Of
sweet peas of the giant six foot high
class2 This is a sight not to be forgot
ten, and, given ordinary conditions, a
hedge of these sweet peas will be a.
thing of beauty and a joy for three
months by cutting freely as the blooms
appear, never allowing them to run to
seed. The dwarf sweet peas are de-
lightful for ribbon borders as they only
grow to a height of eight inches.
In the old world garden of flowers
are the larkspur. sweet william, phlox,
princes feather, sunfiower, foxgloVe.
canterbury bell. columbine and, to my
mind. the queen of pinks, the salmon
variety on long stems is the most per-
feet of flowers. Who does not love Law
ender, with its association of chests of
old linen and priceless lace and bro
cades? And rosemary, which recalls
Crawford and the prim and elegant old
Ia dies composing its very exclusive
set" who laid away their finery sprin-
kled with this dried flower? We may
bring part of the old atmosphere by
planting lavender and rosemary slips
now in a shady place in the garden
two-thirds their length in the soil.
They should be watered freely in dry
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-04-16

Don't wear vertically striped mate
rial if you are tall.
Don't expect great bargains to turn
out great savings.
Don't wear big sleeves and big hats
if you are short
Don't jump into your clothes and ex-
pect to look dressed.
Don't put cost before cut. Corded silk
won't cover a poor fit
Don't forget that dress was made for
woman, not woman for dress.
Don't put all your allowance outside
A shabby petticOat kills the smartest
gown.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-04-16
Good Things
To Eat
EAL AND $50 sOUP. :

ZEAL AND SAGO SOUP. - Put
" three cupfuls of veal stock over
the fire and soak two tablespoon
fuls of sage in little cold water on the
back of the range for one hour Stir
the sago into the veal stock and cook
until the sage is transparent Beat the
yolks of two eggs, add little of the hot
soup and pour all together again. Heat,
but do not boil Season with pepper
and salt.
Clam Croquettes. - Place twenty
CLAIMS, with their liquor over the fire.
As soon as they come. to a boil skim
and drain, then chop fine. To two melt
ed tablespoonfuls of butter add one
slice of onion; cook five minutes with
out browning, then add one good table,
spoonful of flour and stir until smooth.
To this add the chopped clans, one
teaspoonful of chopped parsley and the
yolks of two eggs. Mix well and turn
out on a platter to cool When very
cold divide equally into as many por-
tions as are to be served. Shape. dip in
breadcrUmbs. put in a frying basket
and brown. Drain on paper.
Squash Custard.-Cook one summer
squash until tender. Drain it well and
press through a strainer. adding two
w ell beaten eggs. one quarter of cup
ful of sugar and four tablespoonfuls OF
milk Flavor with lemon rind or va
nilla. Line a pie dish with a good
plain crust. Pour in the custard and
bake half an hour.
Chocolate Loaf Cake.-Stir together
one cupful Of sugar, one egg. a half
cupful of -four and two teaspoOnfuls OF
baking powder. Melt one tablespoonful
of butter. add to it two squares OF
chocolate, then add the chocolate to
the first mixture with half a cupfuI OF
warm water and one tablespoonful OF
vanilla extract. Turn into a creased
shallow pan and bake in a rather quick
oven twenty minutes. When cold cover
with icing made by thickening one ia
biespoonful of U-flk or water with pow
dered sugar.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-04-16

@ HE almost forgotten art of gar
dening viii be taken UP by the
twentieth century smart girl
"A this year. 1t is delightfully."-
healthful and early English
and all that, you know, and I suppose
has come in with the Victorian frocks,
poke bonnets and furbelows of our
grandmOthers. Whatever the cause
thereof, the past few months have seen
the fair sex porting over gardening
hooks, reading and inwardly digesting
the whims and peculiarities of the floral
world. Under happy auspices my lady
win Gull her June roses from a trim,
old fashioned garden prim and stately
with it's box lined walks and hoasting
perhaps a quaint sundial surrounded
by a wealth of sweet williams and fra
grant, pungent pinks.
She viii plant her favorite flowers
with a silver handled trowel under the
direction of an autocratic old gardener
who is nothing If not monarch of all
he surveys.
But this posing and toying with the
gentle art of gardening is not the at
titude of the serious worker who will
practically carry out her whims and
fancies of Horticulture in her own sweet
way. The late April and early May
days viii be full of work in the garden.
and after a long, dreary winter this ex-
erclSe IN the balmy spring air will be
delightful.
1.-The seasons bring the flowers again
and bring the firstlings to the flock''
So sings our great poet of spring, and
upon the efforts of the next two months
will depend the firstlings of our summer
blossoms and the beauty of the entire
season of flowers.
Flower beds should be put in thor
ough order now, hoed and raked and
made ready for a we'll considered
scheme of planting for the season.
Where the earth is to be made ready for
a new garden the soil best to use as a
foundation bed is what is known as
sandy loan, not less than ten inches
deep, OVERLAPPING a subson of sand or
gravel, says an authority upon this in
teresting subject.
Do not wait until you are ready to
plant before making a plan for the dis
posal of all your posies. On some wet
lay when work outdoors is suspended
md you have lots of leisure map out all
AVAILABLE garden space and the mate
rails with which it is to be provided.
Make a list of the plants or seeds to be
sought and note carefully the color
Icheme. Sites for all these should be
marked out with sticks on your bed
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-04-16


n which is a collected exhibit of
toilets designed especially for
the worlds fair at St. Louis. The day
an open sesame in the form of a neat
little card of invitation arrived by post
found me a delighted visitor at the
salon.
After a cursory glance among the
creations" one was lost in admiration
of the exquisite work. beauty of color
ing and perfection of embroidery dis
played in each of the toilets A more
thorough inspection showed that there
has been no revolutionary movement in
modes during the past year. The lines
are the same, and it is principally in
the introduction of new materials,
trimming developments and in the
shape Of the skirt that the first
ness" of style is evident. Most of
the bodfces and sleeves are the same.
the former with low, draped shoulders
and extravagant fullness held in place
by a graceful girdle and the sleeves
an intricate mass of puffs, cascades of
lace or umbrella shaped, small at arm
hole and wide at the elbow, but not
caught in upon the arms One well
known house is determined to bring
mondaines back to the elbow sleeves
and displays most of its models with
small puffed sleeves drawn down to the
arm Just below the elbow, where there
With this style of outdoor dress viii
come the return of the long suede glove
wrinkled up the arm in mOusquetaire
fashion.
Each exhibiting atelier at the collec-
tivite shows different style, yet all
have more or less similarity, with the
full skirt as the dominating change in
modes. The smartest skirts I saw in
the adaptable materials were gathered
all round the waist and fell in soft, long
lines to the ground. At the bottom of
the skirts there are wide plaits, with or
without incrustations of ennbroideries
or wool lace. One maisOn de couture
contributed beautiful froeks of the di-
rectoire and empire periods. These
magnificent eras require handsome fab
RIGS and are too elaborate in design to
be evolved out of the grapes, voiles and
Canvases of the season. AS ball or dim
ner gowns carried out in priceless bro
cade and lace nothing is more effective
or distinguished than these for the
stately matron's toilet.
Amid all the array of loose and foppy
corsages a model of Paquin, that adj
vance agent of fashion, stood out in
strong relief with its drapery sharply
revealing the bust lines and its sleeves
close fitting to the elbow, from which
point of vantage they broke out into
hounced fullness. This bodice was
mounted over the full skirt he has
sponsored for several years. putting
and pipings on some of the jujons make
them veritab1e monuments of artistic
workmanship. The sloping shoulder
effect is still preserved on the bodice
with trimmings which seem to be cut
in one line with that decorating the
corsage.
The new materials observed in the
st. Louis exhibit were mousseline taft
feta, mOusseline cloth and a lovely
soft silk called messaline; also wolfe de
sole, which rivals canvas and etamine
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-04-16

First shake a little powder in the
glove, then place your elbow firmly on
the table the hand upright, the thumb
at angles with the palm
Draw the body of the glove over the
fingers and arrange each digit in the
glove finger intended for it, and see
that the seams are not twisted
Carefully coax on to the fingers. and
when they are fitted smooth the back
stitching into place Then insert the
thumb, the back seams again pulled up
straight and the wrist buttoned.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-04-16

gether with narrow velvet ribbon, COM
posed many of the best models. When
a gown of this kind is built on skillful
lines and worn with discretion it is ex-
tremely smart and most useful for
practical occasions.
A particularly fetching little check
gown was in soft shades of gray, blue
and black. The tailor made jacket
opened over a dark gray suede vest
decorated with tiny steel buttons. A
broadcloth band of gray. the ground
color of the check, enveIoped the
shoulders in shawl fashion, and sim
shape at the base of the hem.
In the afternoon gowns spotted crepe
de chine was wonderfully manipulated,
While coarse tussore silk in a deep
shade of bronze garnished with heavy
string lace formed a beautiful gown of
Laferriere's.
We are going to hear a great deal
concerning the new tones of white.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-04-16
Partisan Costumes Destined For America


other morning taking her constitutional
ir dark purple hopsack coat and skirt
of the plainest build, which fitted her
perfect figure as it, to quote an old
saying, shed been melted and poured
in" Her severe purple toque carried
out the tailor scheme, the brim all lit
tie straw roses. with just a touch of
frilled mauvy pink taffeta at the back
and front
She looked so smart and altogether
well turned out that one for the time
being could see no grace or charm in
the business of the 1880 styles. "But
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-04-16
The Meaning Of orange R1o.som.

The orange tree is regarded as a
prince among trees and the emblem OF
genius. popularity of this tree is
that it bears fruit and flower at the
same time. Its leaves are evergreen,
and as it grows older it grows in beau
ty and fruitfulness, its blossom filling
the air with ITS fragrance. It is indeed
a 1T emblem OF marriage promise and
hopes.
The orange tree Is considered typical
Of love because, though its fruit is
golden and its flavor and scent deli
cious, its rind is bitter, and, as every
one knows who has experienced it, Gu
pid's dart causes pain. The orange is
emblematic OF gratitude as well as OF
genius and love.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-04-16

space, and the intermixing for a sue
cessiOn of flowers as well as for one
color arrangements should be regarded.
For instance, suppose you begin with
poets" which are in the front rank of
popularity for the spring garden, ap-
pearing as they do just after the bleak
winter and turning the garden into a
gorgeous mass of color and a fragrance
that is enchanting. Then the double
tulips in shaded varieties are lovely. To
get the best reward single and double
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-04-16

which color, if white can scientifically
be termed a color, is quite as much of
a leader this season as last. The espe-
cially smart shades are radiunl, a sill
very white, and parchment, which is a
white with mixing of yellow brown
in the finished color
There is a distinct revival of green in
trimmings, but this color is at a dis
count for entire costumes, as 1 am quite
sure brown will soon be.
1t is characteristic of the common
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-04-16
3ARIsIAN Gowns ZOE APRIL AVID MAY.

sense that rules dress today that there
should coexist with the very pictur-
esque type of gown quite opposite fea-
lures. And this oppositeness the Pari-
slams are reyiving in the. severe tailor
made of the traditional English cut
with close fitting waist line and plain
sleeve and collar. This severe siIhou-
cite, with accessories in keeping, is
certainly a pleasant variety and will
have its niche in the present phase Of
fashion. met a Partisan elegante the
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-04-16

there is a good word" wrote Swift,
eand that IS moderation This very
good word has a more subtle meaning
IN its French equivalent, ala mesure."
La mesure," moderation, proportion, a
sense of the fitness of things. is ever in
the French mind Just as in French
cookery the rule is that nc single fla
vor shall predominant, so a happy me-
dunn is aimed at by the Parisienne in
her toilets.
Tact in dress is necessary to every
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-04-16

brown chiffon choker and tie form the
neck treatment. +.
The other gown is of shot gray chine
silk, and en- PEASANT let me say that
one might just as well talk of the del
uge as of foulard at present, so entire
" has this silk been superseded by 9TH
er weaves. Well. this dainty creation
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-04-16

were beautiful with their old world
tints of rose and mauve, and a number
of these silk gowns were strapped with
fine broadcloth, reversing the order of
last season, when taffeta adorned the
cloth tailor made and elaborate costume
alike.
Tiny checked silks enhanced by the
new dentelle hcelle and wool lace. to-
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-04-16

Polished ironwork can be preserved
from rust by an Inexpensive mixture
made Of copaI varnish mixed with an
much olive oil as viii give il a degree
Of greasiness and afterward adding to
this mixture as much spirit Of turpe1-
tine as of varnish.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-04-16
simnIe AnnIe Pnddinn-

A favorite pudding for children is
compounded Of alternate layers Of
chopped apple and dried crumbs.
Moisten the layers with scattered bits
Of butter. cover the top with crumbs
and. after baking. serve with cream or
with custard sauce
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-04-16

ment, and cosmos, which comes into
bloom in July and continues a mass of
airy, fragile flowers until cut down by
the severe frost, more than repays the
trouble of raising.
Nasturtiums are always favorites,
and pretty new treatment is to fill a
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-04-16

weather and transplanted in the au-
tumn.
A new conner for favor is the rose
queen, a plant having a small pink,
starry flower the size of a Russian vio-
let IN thick punches Of bloom. The rose
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-04-16

tulips should be planted together, for
when planted in this way the time of
the tulip is greatly prolonged. Daffo-
dis and tulips usually come up in the
spring from bulbs planted in the fall.
Candytuft is nice for border adorn-
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-04-16
April 2.-The

\ Ar April 2.-The Partisan
sartorial artists are holding
what they call a ''collectivite, :"
which is a collected exhibit of
toilets dasiened esneciallv for
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-04-16

q HE almost forgotten art of gar
dening will be taken UP by the
twentieth century smart girl
this year. It is delightfully."-
healthfuI and early English
The oasis., 1904-08-06

shipped at once Vhlls the main drili will be driven abead and new ground opened lt is thought that rich ground will be found ahcad oi ihe present workings, and Chat Inc lessee will make a big clean up.
 Yuma -entinel At the mi of the California King Gold Mines Company at Picacho last week most terrific and unusual acci- dent happened which put the works out of business in short or der. The governor belt broke or was thrown off, removing the only means of check or restraint upon the big fly wheel. which weighs twenty-one tons. The big wheel thus released, spun around for | brief period at the rate of 'leven million revolutions or so per sec ond and then flew up through the roof like rocket. The rim of the wheel bursted about the same time and a section of it weighing several hundred pounds was afterwards found half mile away. The thing happened 10 quickly as to daze the senses. No one was hurt, and the damage only extended to the aperture in the roof and the busted" fly wheel, but the hair Of every man in the vicinity was standing straight up when they "come to-" The mill was to have been closed down within a day or two for repairs, 50 that the acci- dent occurred at what might be considered an opportune time.