davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1904-05-25
Man May Look On.

NEW. YORK. May s24.-The New
York Mothers club has amended its
constitution in order to admit men as
associate members. The women an
nounced that they would gladly receive
the necessary membership fee of 81
from from any respectable person of
the male persuasion who is in sympa-
thy with the purposes of the organiza-
ton. OF course as an associate mem
Der he viii not be allowed to vote.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1904-05-25

hats the countess wore at the races
was blue straw and was almost three
feet in diameter. This beat to a finish
Miss Roosevelts chocolate brown tulle
affair. On the day of the Red Cross
fete the Countess Cassini astonished
everyone by her immense ''bebe,g hat.
This was white lace and it's dimensions
were astonishing But Miss Roosevelt
appeared in a small black hat, neat and
sparsely trimmed. Accordingly that
honors went to the ambassadors niece.
Miss Roosevelt is dressing most elab-
Orately these days. Last winter
pretty chiffon velvet did yeoman serv-
ice while she stayed in New York. Her
summer gowns are varied and magnifi-
cent, however.
The rest cures" have created a new
| fad among the wealthy women who
have been making visits to them of
late to recuperate from the strain of
| the social season. This is the scheme
of living outdoors as much as possible,
and the manner in which it is worked
| savors of the luxury of the times. The
! things brought into play usually in
| clude a stout cot, well padded, and
| placed permanently in some sunny but
| secluded nook in the immediate neigh
borhood of the country house in which
| the devotee lives. When it is not in
| use the cot is covered with a heavy
rubber blanket to protect it from the
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1904-05-25


wet. When the rest cure" patient
elects to use it, swhic haslisuaily for an
hour In the morning and again in the
afternoon, "a maid removes the blanket
and the patient" lies stretched on the
cot in the broad sunshine with a veil
tied over. her eyes to keep out the glare
Of light. :, A more thorough cure of this
KIND Is effected by having high
wooden Enclosure built on the grounds
in which the sun Shines, but the wind
Is cut off. When milady has one of
these structures she has a cot within
Its walls on which she reclines for her
sun bath.
Paris DEGREES that short skirts for
women shall be shorter than ever be-
fore. Here is a chance for the reform
ers, who will doubtless shrek sInde-
cent as soon as these. new skirts are
imported. But the Inconsistencies OF
customs today should be remembered.
Whereas these short skirts escape the
ground by eight inches or more, bath
ing skirts usually~ swing just below the
knee, and,swhen bicycling was in vogue,
any length of skirt was considered
proper. Even IA }ishort, skirt is more
decorous than boomers. 1t may be pre-
dicted that the shortness of skirts will
amaze the prudes.7 With these skirts
either high-laced boots or slippers and
alluring stockings may be worn.
Ever since Miss Emmett went on the
stage, Miss Isabella Cameron, daughter
of Sir Roderick cameron, has felt a
similar desire. She and Miss Emmett
are friends, and Miss Emmets degree
of success has fired Miss Cameron's
ambition. But her sister, Mrs. Belmont
Tiffany, opposes any connection be-
tween the haronet's daughter and the
The San Francisco call., 1904-02-21

boldly and sharply and the slit was
filed in with very deep fall of lace.
which trailed two fingers deep upon
the gown.
A Few of the Prettiest Gowns.
Miss Alice Roosevelt at the same time
wore an afternoon gown with cuffs Of
lace almost as deep as the elbow and
very tight. The lace came down to a
point over the knuckles, and from
shoulder to thumb there was one very
pronounced and very beautiful sweep.
The bagginess of the sleeve all occurred
on the under part, where the sleeve
hung down in a great fullness OF CLOTH
And there is still another cuff that is
gaining in favor, and this is the long,
tight, plain cloth cuff, with the bell at
the wrist This is skin-tight over the
hand and knuckles and Is tight to the
very elbow. Above this there is full-
ness which falls down and forward.
This sleeve is tight at the shoulder.
The sensation OF the Paris season is
the Melba sleeve, which is sleeve
made of thin material over heavier
one. This sleeve when used in an even
ing gown can be made OF mousseline de
sole over black taffeta- But II made
of a heavier goods 1t needs no lining.
1t is very effective made OF moire, ana
is good in cloth gown.
The Melba sleeve Is very long. At
the wrist Ii has a smart embroidered
cuff very wide and very stiff and turn
ed back smartly from the hand into
wide flare.
The sleeve proper is so full as to re-
seh1ble a pillow case. The arm is en-
yeloped in it and it lies in great folds
ALI around the elbow. falling forward
over the cuff. The top OF this sleeve
is very tight and actually hugs the
arm. being Of the variety known as
skin tight.
Then there is another sleeve, and
this is the sleeve which terminates a
The San Francisco call., 1904-02-21

down the front with the smallest OF
gold buttons. And the yoke is one mass
of shirring, which is brought down to
3 point over the bust. Between the
rows of shirring there are strappings of
white satin ribbon.
The stock of this gown is made of
lace, which is fitted to the neck and
throat, and is stiff1y wired to keep it in
place. The cuffs are deep cuffs and are
also stiffly wired. These are set out
over the hand in a bell This waist is
all crimson, even the lace being dyed
that color.
The new gowns are full of new fea-
lures and one cannot look at them an
instant without being impressed with
their oddity. They are trimmed in GU
rious ways, and they are treated with
plaits and applications which are en-
tirely different from all the trimmings
Of other seasons.
In the long list of striking features
the cuffs can be mentioned as among
the most prominent. These have quite
outgrown the modesty Of previous sea-
sons and are wonderfully effective in
the large sizes and very chic in the
smaller and tighter styles.
A handsome cuff was seen upon a
gown worn by Mrs. Grover Cleveland,
who is in deep mourning for her daugh-
ter. This cuff, which was made of
black henrietta, was very stiff and
about two fingers in width. 1t was large
around and was interlined so that 1t
could be neither folded nor bent. IT
might as well have been wired. 1t was
untrimmed except for a band OF hen
rietta. This cuff completed very full
sleeve Of the black goods.
A handsome cuff was worn by Mrs
Roosevelt. The gown was checked
silk in black and white, and the sleeves
were full and of the variety which
gradually grows fuller toward the
wrist. AT the wrist the cuff was slit
The San Francisco call., 1904-02-21

changed within three months, and now
the gowns which 1 made just before
Christmas are all out OF date. Many OF
them are positively Gothic by the side
Of the new styles"
The truth of his statement was evil
dent at a glance, for the new gowns
which stood so gayly forth on the wax
en- models were laden as to the shoulo<
ers and remarkable as to the sleeves,
The shoulders were all built on the
sloping order, and In many cases the
slope was continued by some clever art
until it actually reached the elbow line.
there to become lost in the voluminous
folds and puffs Of the lower sleeve.
In many cases the shoulder droop is
managed by means of capes, either of
cloth or of lace, while in other in
stances il is achieved in other ways.
Lady Curzon is wearing a new gown,
which might be called visiting gown,
and which could be easily converted
into an afternoon dress. 1t is built of
mole colored cloth, and it is made upon
the shirt waist pattern, baggy in the
front and secured with great jeweled
frogs that strap it across the front and
The San Francisco call., 1904-02-21
By Augusta Prescott.

fE CILD my shoulders long and
x sioping." The speaker was
n a woman attired in a very
~ dsshing gown of russet
brown, just in the process Of making.
IT here are two shoulder capes: will
you have a third?" replied the modiste.
standing with the folds of cloth in her
hard.
Madame paused and surveyed her
self critically in the glass. Yes. add
third. but let it be stole cane with
embroidered ends that hang to the
belt"
The modiste nodded and for few
minutes there was no sound but the
shipping Of the cloth and the soft lay
ing of the folds that were to make the
shoulder caDes and the stoles Of a
handsome cloth suit for Easter days.
Russet brown cloth very glossy
makes q beautiful spring suit The
skirt, which must be full, can be fitted
around the hips and laid in box plaits
all the way around from the knees 10
the floor. This gives a very full skirt
The upper part Of the skirt, the part
embroidery which reaches downward
in embroidered points.
The waist has the great hanging
sleeves which end in the long tight
cuff, which is trimmed with embroid-
cry. and all the capes have a little OF
the same embroidery upon them, as do
the stole ends.
suit like this is as charming a
thing as one would want TO see. and
If made Of cloth that is not too heav> j..
IL can be worn all the spring and again
in the fall
The Vtility Of the spring suit can best
be explained by q remark made by
fashionable woman who was out Sc
lecting her Easter gown.
when I buy a spring suit" said she.
have three ideas in mind. The suit
must be warm enough to wear in April
and May. IL must be fashionably
made and il must be OF color that
Avill not fade nor spot. 1t must not be a
delicate goods, but rather material
that stands the weather nicely.
This suit" continued she, II expect
20 wear two months. Then l shall Law
IL away. Later in the season will
bring ii out and. after refreshing IT a
little, I shall wear il for a travelling
dress. This can be done by the removal
of any lace that may be upon it and by
the taking of Of one Of the shoulder
capes or the putting in of a new vest.
This same suit does nicely for first
fan wear And now the lace is put back
on. the gown is made smart with choux
OF ribbon and It is worn with a very
snowy little autumn hat-one OF those
hats that bloom brightest in the fail
just before the snow calls IL in.
Always" said she. buy your spring
suit with all OF these ideas and ideals
in mind"
The Shoulders OF the Gowns.
A man -dressmaker stood looking into
the window Of a fashionable depart
mont store where tailored gowns were
sold Il despair" said he, "of making
gowns ahead of the season to suit my
patrons. No sooner does a style come
in than another one follows and chases
Il out. Just look" said he, how the
shoulders OF the dresses have been
The San Francisco call., 1904-02-21

shut it in very picturesque fashion. At
the neck there is large 1eweled clasp.
The feature Of this gown is its
sleeve, which is cut off at the shoulder.
The shoulder is finished with band of
Armenian embroidery about two fin
gers wide. Then there comes a sleeve
of cloth. cut off at the elbow, and fin
ished with another band of embroidery.
And below this there is heavy white
lace undersleeve which terminates in a
handsome ruff1e around the hand.
Gowns of Fashions Leaders.
Another handsome gown, worn by a
leader of fashion, is one that is built
entirely of louisine in a shade Of deep
crimson. The waist is on the popular
blouse order, buttoned all the way
The San Francisco call., 1904-02-21

And What You Will See When
You Go TO ShoD for a Dress
10 Put On When You Take
on our Fur Coat-ShouI-
der Arc Now a Very Striking
Feature of Dress. and the Way
the Shoulders Are Trimmed
and Treated VIII Mark an Era
in tic History of Beautiful
tSOwning-Thc Full Skirt and
10 What Extent Women VIII
Adept Ia.
Phillipsburg herald. [volume] (Phillipsburg, Kan.) 1882-1905, 1904-03-24

the triumph in our legislative halls OF
patriotism over partisanshlp, of states.
manship over political astigmatism. It
means that within ten years the
oceans which wash the two coasts Of
America will be Joined. 1t means a
doubling of the strength of the Ameri-
can navy. 1t means the American flag
will fly once again over fleets of mer-
chantmen. 1t means increased pros
perity to the commerce of the whole
world, but especially of this nation.
1t means lower railroad rates across
this continent. 1t means a ship canal
from Chicago to the gulf of Mexico.
1t means the contamination of work
which has been in the minds of men
for 400 years, but which has defied all
efforts until attacked by the genius
of the American people.
Much credit is due to Theodore
Roosevelt and to John Hay for the
American triumph. Without their de-
termined and sagaclous management of
the isthmian crisis 1t is probable that
we should still be "weltering in a
chaos of uncertainty" as to whether
we were to have a canal within the
next half century.
Phillipsburg herald. [volume] (Phillipsburg, Kan.) 1882-1905, 1904-03-24
Shoes and the putv on HId.s.

The Record raises the question "of
the annual duties on raw materials
with reference TO Shoes"
The Dingley tariff put duty on
hides. and while the Record and a
number of other papers declared that
this would kill the export of shoes, the
foreign demand for our shoes has
grown ever since.
What is the use Of buttlng against
facts in this way? The experience Of
the last six years shows clearly that
duty on hides does nothing to prevent
the increase Of our exports Of boots
and shoes, and this is the truth with
other duties on raw materials. In
the end they increase the supply of
raw material and diminish its price
Philadelphia Press.
Phillipsburg herald. [volume] (Phillipsburg, Kan.) 1882-1905, 1904-03-24

broadly, there is little warrant for any
fear that England's thousands Of mil.
lions Of dollars worth of manufactured
wares, represented by her home con.
sumption and by her exports, stand in
any serious peril from the competition
of a few millions of dollars worth OF
American surplus products sold at low
rates for special reasons.
The American business man does
not banker after" any market which
permanently represents only loss or
at best no profit. Moreover this
process, spasmodically applied as 1t is,
is not limited to the American mer.
chant or manufacturer His English
and German competitors, take their oc-
casional fling at it, just as he does,
and even our own market is occasion
ally subjected to the needs Of the
foreigner for little ready cash or the
relief of an overstocked warehouse
New York Sun.
Phillipsburg herald. [volume] (Phillipsburg, Kan.) 1882-1905, 1904-03-24
nsIauohterlnau surpIu. Products.

II particular British industry, or a
particular British establishment, suf
fers a loss Of trade, there are those
who raise the cry that the loss is due
to slaughter prices on goods from
the United States. The cry was re-
Gently heard in Canada when. Ameri.
can steel rails. on some very large or
ders, were quoted at IS to Sc per ton
below the rates maintained in the
United States.
II may be admitted that at certain
times and in certain lines American
goods have been. are being and will be
sold in foreign markets at prices
which are below the rates prevailing
at the same time in this country. But
the argument. as an argument. carries
. strong favor Of absurdlty. Taken
Phillipsburg herald. [volume] (Phillipsburg, Kan.) 1882-1905, 1904-03-24
MILITARY work In the PhlIlppInes.

Reports like that received concern.
ing the wiping out of band Of Moros
prove that the pacification Of the Phil.
ippines requires a constant military
watchfulness such as England has
practiced in her long course of colo
NAL expansion. 1t is fact. however,
that the need for the employment Of
force is steadily diminishing. There
have of late been very few disturb
ances in the more civilized islands Of
the north; where our earlier cam
paigns were conducted, and there has
been nothing at all resembling a con-
certed general effort at rebellion
against the American authorities.
So far as we may Judge from the
dispatches, 1t would seem that the
races who followed the leadership OF
Aguinaldo or acted in cooperation
with him have given up the struggle.
II there is still an aspiration for indie
pendence it does not express itself in
the appeal to arms. Instead of any
thing resembling a national movement
there is only the occasional outbreak
of some few disaffected persons who
are commonly classed as ladrones.
Phillipsburg herald. [volume] (Phillipsburg, Kan.) 1882-1905, 1904-03-24
KEEP WHEATMARKET
MATTER OF SERIOUS MOMENT TO
AMERICAN FARMERS.
chamberIain's Idea Is to Have Canada
Furnish the Food Products for the
Home country--Would Be Serious
Blow to Western Wheat Growers.

On Feb. the Manitoba Legislature
unanimously adopted resolution
strongly indorsing Mr.. Chamberlain's
preferential tariff scheme. This ap-
pears to be the first formal legislative
Endorsement of Mr. Chamberlain pol
Icy. 1t was given because that policy
would give Canadian wheat growers
better British market than American
wheat growers would have.
The United Kingdom is the largest
customer of American wheat growers.
1t takes now practically one-half of all
our wheat exports. But we are not now
supplying so large a part of its de-
mands, as compared with Canada, as
we did twenty years ago.
In round figures, the United King
dom imported in 1882 134,OOO,O00 bush
els Of wheat, including flour, Of which
100000 bushels came from the
United States, and only 100000 bush
els from Canada. In 1902 the United
Kingdom imported 179,OOO,OOO bushels
Of wheat, Of which 108,000,O00 bushels
came from the United States, and over
100000 bushels from Canada.
Competing on equal terms in the
British market Canadian wheat grow.
ers are gaining upon American. The
Canadians have increased their trade
400 per cent, while we have increased
ours only Al per cent. II Mr. Cham
berlain succeeds in getting tariff of
cents bushel on American wheat 1t
is certain that our best wheat market
will be greatly curtailed, and that Ca
madam wheat growers will profit by
our loss. That is what the Manitoba
Legislature sees, and that is why Il
Endorses Mr.. Chamberlain.
What can we do to prevent this
narrowing Of our best
wheat market? Two courses are open
to us.
One is to reduce our tariff on manu-
features to such an extent that the
Phillipsburg herald. [volume] (Phillipsburg, Kan.) 1882-1905, 1904-03-24
Worlds Oldest Tree.

1t is said that the Oldest tree IN the
world is bo tree at Adnuradhapura,.
Ceylon, which was planted close to a
Buddhist shrine in 245 B. c., and is
therefore 2,148 years old. Legend has.
1t that this tree sprang from a branch
which severed itself by miraculous
power from the sacred tree under
which Gautama became Buddha. the
enlightened one.
Phillipsburg herald. [volume] (Phillipsburg, Kan.) 1882-1905, 1904-03-24
Very LlkelY.

The other day new baby came to
Mr. and Mrs. Jones. A day or two
after the baby's arrival little Margaret,
aged 8, was asked by her neighbors il
her parents had named the new little
brother yet. Nom" was the small
miss's answer, "but they named the
rest Of us children Jones, so l s'pose
they'll call him Jones, too."-Ex-
change
Phillipsburg herald. [volume] (Phillipsburg, Kan.) 1882-1905, 1904-03-24
Now a RespectabIe citizen.

Drummer-What became of OLD
Tuffnut, who formerly owned a dis.
reputable dive on Blank street?
Merchant-Oh, he reformed several
years ago and is now one OF our most
honest and respected citizens.
Drummer-What business is he in
now?
Merchant-None at all. He made a
fortune out Of his dive and retired.
Phillipsburg herald. [volume] (Phillipsburg, Kan.) 1882-1905, 1904-03-24

British people, being able to exchange
their manufactures for our wheat,
might prefer to reject Mr.. Chamber
lain's plan and go on as they are. But
to do that would injure our manufac.
lures and derange our whole fiscal sys-
TEN. That plan is impracticable.
The other course is to make 1t worth
while for Canada to reject Mr.. Cham
berlains plan and refuse to become
merely the farm feeding England's
mills, by opening to Canada's minerals,
timber, and other raw materials bet
ter market in the United States.
Since our own wheat production has
practically reached the limits of our
new lands, and can be greatly In
creased hereafter not by increase OF
area, but only by better culture, we
might also open our markets to Can
ada's wheat. and induce her to send II
here instead Of to England to be
ground.
BY reasonable reciprocity conces.
sions to Canada. promptly made, we
can, without material injury to our
selves. prevent her economic alliance
with Great Britain. bring her into
economic alliance with the United
States. and prevent the threatened
curtailment of our best wheat mar.
ket
We can make Canada the farm feed.
Ing our mills rather than the farm
feeding England's mills. The benefits
that such an arrangement would be to
us on both sides OF the Atlantic are
certainly worth consideration.-Chi
cago Inter Ocean.
Phillipsburg herald. [volume] (Phillipsburg, Kan.) 1882-1905, 1904-03-24
Beauty Of the Cherry Tree.

The cherry is the most beloved OF
all Japanese trees, not for its fruit, but
for the exquisite beauty Of 1t in bios
som time. Hearn says It's lovellness
is only to be compared to the effect Of
fieecy clouds, family tinged with sun
set, folded about the branches, which
are at the time destitute Of leaves. To
compare the beauty Of girl to that Of
the cherry bloom Is the height Of COM
pliment.
Phillipsburg herald. [volume] (Phillipsburg, Kan.) 1882-1905, 1904-03-24
A BURGLAR with RELIGION

Former State Senator Guy once was
asked 10 defend an ex-convict who
was charged with burglary, says the
New York World. He refused the
case, but had talk with the prisoner.
In the course of conversation the
burglar said
81 had "a partner once, but he got
religion"
Indeed! l presume he quilted the
business?"
Milky; I just fired him, see? What
could a man like me expect Of a
chump who always wanted to open a
safe with prayers?"
Phillipsburg herald. [volume] (Phillipsburg, Kan.) 1882-1905, 1904-03-24
MAJ "a Ahiialve

Maybe the tariff showed its teeth to
the tariff haters and frightened them
out of their ten-cent socks they could
buy for nine cents under tariff reform
If they had nine cents. They are not
so abusive now Of fits proven bene-
ncence and practicabillty.-shefnold
(Ala.) Reaper
Phillipsburg herald. [volume] (Phillipsburg, Kan.) 1882-1905, 1904-03-24
Paner Car Mheels-

Every wheel on a Pullman car ie
made of paper covered with iron and
steel. The body Of the wheel is a
block of paper about four inches
thick. Around this is a rim of steel
from two inches to three inches thick,
which comes in contact with the rails.
The sides are covered with circular
iron plates bolted on.
Phillipsburg herald. [volume] (Phillipsburg, Kan.) 1882-1905, 1904-03-24
A Profitable lnvsstmsnt

An estate consisting of twelve mes.
sages and freehold land, in Holborn,
England, was purchased by the church.
wardens OF st. Clement Danes in 1863
for EGO. The annual income now ex-
ceeds $1,000. This is devoted to tho
provision Of almshouses, pensions and
schools.
Phillipsburg herald. [volume] (Phillipsburg, Kan.) 1882-1905, 1904-03-24
Bio Cities Of the World.

The cities with population above
the million mark are: London, $751;
372; New York. 3.4372O2; Paris, g..
714,O6S; Berlin, 1,8SS,S4S; Chicago.
1.6SS,575; Vienna, 1.674,957; Canton,
1.00O,OO0; Toxic. Japan, 1,440,121:
Philadelphia, 1,99S.6s7; st. Peters.
burg, 1.267,022: Calcutta. 1.125, 400;
Constantinople. 1.125,OOO, and Pekins
100000.
Phillipsburg herald. [volume] (Phillipsburg, Kan.) 1882-1905, 1904-03-24
The Mistress Was Forelvlna.

d. c. Brewer tells Of colored maid
who came home about two hours later
than she ought and burst out 10 her
mistress:
"Oh, missus! Use got 'ligion! Use
got 'ligion."
Very well, said the mistress. "In
forgive you this time. But don't let
1t happen again. Boston Record.
Phillipsburg herald. [volume] (Phillipsburg, Kan.) 1882-1905, 1904-03-24

The five frogs that we're found alive
by a Connecticut taxidermlst In the
crop Of loon that he had shot, and
that hoped of gally when they we're
released, must have felt more or less
the way Jonah did when he quit the
whale.