Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-07-23

worked only on materials possessing
clearly defined mesh. The designs ar,
square or diamond shaped. and threads ar,
ora"n as for regular drawn work. TIL.
hollows or squares thus formed are out
lined with heavy buttonhoie stitch in mer
ceriZed floss. Smaller squares are ther
formed within this large one by separatins
/ the uncut threads and bracing them witt
llnen thread No 90 II desired, these tiny
squares may be filled in with i single LACE
stitch in the linen thread, such as is en-
pioyed in drawn work. The designs are
simple and can first be tried on Hardan
ger canvas, which comes for the purpose
or on ordinary canvas such as was pro.
Vlded for grandmother's SAMPLER
Self-Tones Best.
Hardanser shows to best advantage
"neh worked In self-tones; that is, for
paie gray etamlne the stitches are worked
IN floss of the same tone or a trif1e deener
ana On champagne wolfe, champa gne floss
is employed. For young girls. Persian and
bulgarian colors are also used. bur the
correct mixing of the colors complexities
the work and in the end gives less satis-
faction than the more quiet self-tones
Broderie d'Anglaise is the modern pame
Tor the old-fashioned buttonhole or eyelet
work, with which the new erohroiderar,.
great grandmother decked her bridal trous-
Seau. ~
Inc pattern, simple, convenient de-
sign, with large, pronounced datai1 4,
stamped and worked before the cloth 10
cut away, to leave a fiord applique erect
The pattern is first traced in stout threai
TO brace 1t, and this in turn is buttonhole
stitched, so that the knotted edge OF The
stitches forms the protection when the
cloth is cut away. The buttonhole stitch
ing is then connected by simple cobweb or
other lace designs, of open work. each
thread being strengthened by buttonhole
stitches
Sometimes this drawn or open work
effect is exceedingly ornate though. as a
rule, best results follow simple designs.
A distinctive feature is the number of
small eyelets, also buttonhole stitched
scattered like French knots through the
design proper When all the handwork is
done, the cloth is cut away and a fiorid
open effect is secured
Has Many Uses.
This work lends itself to all the heavier
silks, to pongee, broadcloth landsdown,
sicilienne cloth. etc, and, like the Hardan-
ger lace is elegant and effective in self
tones. 1t is used for yokes shirt waist
sets. shaped berthas and entire fronts
fronts.
Yokes, berthas and entire blouses built
of chiffon strips and hand-work promise to
be popular this fall. The family en-
broiderer turns out this work with aston
form a fashionable combination for fall,
she will probably weave them into a
dressy blouse while she makes one of the
family circle on the porch.
The simplest design is the round yoke, a
perfectly fitting pattern being first cut
from light brown wrapping paper On
this foundation, she bastes bias folds of
white chiffon, following the round lines of
the yoke. These strips are first worked
with French knots in gold thread. and then
connected with fancy stitches of fagotfng
in heavy white embroidery silk. The bast-
ing threads are then removed and the pa
per lining falls away.
If lace medallions ~are to be introduced,
they are first arranged on the pattern, and
the chiffon folds basted so as to make
each lace medallion the center of pattern
in openwork, not unlike q renaissance
effect. Sometimes the note Of gold is not
introduced in the form of French knots,
but the heavier portions of the lace pattern
are run or outlined with gold thread.
A blouse of tucked mousseline with yoke
and bertha in mousaeline motifs and OPEN
work will be one of the extravagances of
the coming season, unless the family can
boast of an up-to-date embroiderer who
really does not embroider. after all. She
Just sets dainty stitches as Dame Fashion
commands.