The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1904-06-12
%HE ways of travel between Ho-
nolulu and the volcano of XII
,.a howe baan elovIv Int

nolulu and the volcano of XII
lauea, have been slowly but
steadily improving for thirty years.
Time was when they were comprised
In a cruise to Hilo by sailboat and In
deck passage from there on a mule
over a. mountain trail, the latter thir-
ty-one miles long and the journey end
ing at the door of shed. After a
while a. rolling and tumbling steam
coaster connected at Hilo with a stage
which carried the passenger up fa1r
road to a comfortable inn. Now the
spick and span Kinau with bilge keels
to keep her from that corkscrew mo-
tion which made a traveller feel as II
he were in state of spiral fermenta-
ficn, steams nimbly on her course, car
rying people right side up and LANDING
them in HiIo in one day or less.
train takes the sightseer through plan
fation and jungle to point twelve
miles from the volcano from which
stage runs 10 as neat and comfortable
and well-managed a hotel as one could
hope to find in any isolated rural dis
frict. The road there, though rough
underfoot, leads through the most de-
IfghtfuI vistas Of tropical forest; past
giant ferns, wild bananas, strange
trees covered with parasite vines
banks of wild roses, bushes laden with
new and delicious small fruits. all the
growths in a tangle and in the upper
levels, inhabited by red birds. AS one
climbs upward the air freshens and
attains the tonic zest which belongs to
an elevation of from 5000 to 1000 feet.
e e
1T is worth the price of trip to Ha-
wall on the Kinau, If the skies are
clear, to see the beautiful north shore
OF the big island. Robert Louis Steven
son wrote of the 'Arid coast of Oahu
and arid enough it looks as one ap-
proaches it by sea. But the north
OF NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS. of Hawaii gives
no such impression. From Upolu
Point to Hilo the land, for the most
part, looks like the Garden of the Lord.
Vast plantations, clad in the incom-
parable green of growing cane lie near
yond these are spacious forests. On
the horizon rises, to a snowy bastion
above the clouds, the extinct volcano
of Mauna Kea, with the gigantic shape
of Mauna' Loa, the active volcano,
keeping 1t company. Kohala, the first
district you see in the cultivated area
terminates on the TANKS of that dark,
gloomy and impressive mountain up
lift, beginning with palisades that
breast the sea, where the inexhausti-
BILE Kohala water-supply is stored. The
shore measurement of this primeval
solitude is said to be about twelve
miles It is a place of abysmal forests
and of rapid streams which go plung-
ing into the sea at intervals of few
hundred yards. Sometimes the water
launches itself over a high cliff; again
it gushes out midway down the face OF
the rock; anon it races through can
Won to a lower fall. Millions of gal
Ions of fresh water are wasted there
every minute-enough to irrigate the
whole territory il it could be held and
distributed.
Beyond This forest and mountain
preserve, the Hamakua district pre-
sents another vista of green planta-
lions and upper woodlands, with new
angle glimpses of Mauna Kea and Ma
una Loa. Landings for big sugar mills
are here and there and one sees cane
bundles and bags of sugar travelling
by gravity down lines of wire from
the high ground or the mill as the case
may be--merchandise which seems to
f1v along on its own wings, now cast
ing it's shadow upon waving fields,
now upon sunlft gorges, then upon
nv,a iraS
looking at the bright country and it
reminds one of perfect Eastern lands
cane in the month of June. The green
ia that Of young meadow-grass; the
homes have that Eastern air of set
fled comfort and family tradition; the
far indeterninate forests might be Of
aIrn and maple for all one could tell.
Tho alien note is struck. however, by
occa sionaI groups of palms or the re-
mains of some ancient heather temple,
ana most of all by the brilliant tropical
sea. the sea of shimmering blue where
the fying-fish flash and the porpoises
play. the sea unvexed by thunder
storms or sudden gales. famed by soft
breezes and one which softly piles its
milky surges on the shore.
Hiioi For insomnia take T4ilo. As
cure for wake illness ii is equal to a
Hfe-membership in the Honolulu
Chamber of Commerce I watched the
stores slowly open late one MORNING as
If the owners had gone. like thet galley
slaves. unwillingIy to their tasks The
ice which. in some occult way had
found a man to deliver It early. Nay on
the sidewalk melting at the rat4 OF a
cent pound. A horse stood III the
street awhile and then fell slown
Wnle 1 waited to see if he would curl
up and purr himself to sleep. Qst was
80. IA ailo where Ross Browne made his