The San Francisco call., 1904-04-17

rosette for the sock to the rosette as
big as a saucer, which is placed upon
the side breadth Of the skirt This is
vastly cheaper and much more dur
able than ribbon.
The Bands OF Canvas.
Another ornament that must not for
a moment be forgotten is the embroid-
cred band. The bands of canvas en-
broidered in flowers, or in vine, or in
a Roman pattern, cannot be counted.
The variety is endless. These bands
are used for belts, for cuffs and for
the orthodox waist trimmings They
are in cross stitch, in key stitch, in
embroidery stitch and in Kensington-
The colors are many.
One of the prettiest set of bands is
made upon a foundation of heavy linen
in cream color. The pattern is a Jap
anese one and the bands are sufficient
for stock, cuffs. and for the trimming
OF vest and skirt.
A trimming that Is to be much seen
is the trimming which consists OF
bands of material. These stitched
bands are employed upon skirts and
waists and are finished with a fancy
button, or with deep fall of lace.
The plain stitched band, finished
with deep fall Of lace, Is feature Of
the spring sleeve; and some Of the
most charming sleeves are finished
with the wide stitched band below
which falls a frill of lace at least three
fingers wide. This lace is beautifully
done in colors-that is, the pattern is
picked out with embroidery stitched
in many tones.
Lace is a thing which has undergone
a complete change From being deli
cate fabric, closely connected with
heavy expense, the laces Of to-day are
made of many different threads, coarse
as well as fine, wood fiber as well as
thread, and are turned out in all sorts
of shapes from the great piece Of lace
which is one Of the features of modern
dressmaking to the deep points Of lace
which are to be used for fiouncings-
Among the new sleeves can be count
ed at least half dozen that are very
distinctive in style. There is the
sleeve which is shaped like a crook
neck squash. 1t is long and tapering
until it reaches the main portion,
where it widens out into a deep shape.
This kind of sleeve is now made all a
plated into a wide band Of goods,
which is covered with a cuff of lace,
which is finished with a big chou OF
ribbon, or a rosette Of cloth.
The Lovely Sleeve Fashion.
Then there is the delightful old sleeve
which is shirred very full into the
armhole. 1t falls limp and baggy to the
wrist where it is trimmed with No less
than six ruffies, each one bordered with
narrow lace These ruff1es reach al
most to the elbow and the effect is
decidedly quaint.
The umbrella sleeve Is lovely and is
best described by it's name. If it could
be lifted it would form a very nice
parasol cover. As it is it is gathered
into the armhole and falls in many
points around the hand. Underneath
there is, lingerie cuff over which the
points make a very nice trimming.
There is the bag sleeve, which is very
much liked and which can be employed
upon many gowns. 1t is suitable for
all materials from sprigged lawn to
broadcloth. This sleeve has its fullest
part underneath. 1t is gathered into a
band of embroidery just below the
elbow. And, from this band of en-
broidery, there falls a founce of the
dress goods. arranged in such a way as
to cover the .knuckles.
These long sleeve founcings. or ruff
fes, would not be novel were it not
that they are made of the same mate
rial as the dress. A gown of chiffon
broadcloth in a shade OF leaf green had
a deep broadcloth ruff1e around the
hand with a heavy braided TRIMMING
upon the ruffle-
The cape sleeve is one that is also
worn. This is gathered into the arm
hole and falls mostly at the back.
There is an underneath sleeve of thin
ner stuff. This sleeve is designed for
piazza gowns