davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-12-04

so practical as the shorter sleeve.
 Having made your yoke. tho next thing Is to cover it up. For warmth the yoke is sometimes made of challis or soielaine, no matter what the ma terial of the matinee may be. There are any number of designs for fancy collars that may be followed. and here the adornment in the way of lace, embroid- ery, medallions and the like Is usually displayed.
 Fashioned upon exactly the same lines are the full-length garments that arc accordeon pleated. After cutting the yoke from whatever material Is deemed the most desirable. cut off the material of the gown to reach from the yoke to half way below the knee. Allow three times as much material as you will need pleating, and at the same time arrange for a plisse sleeve. and. if possible. cascade down the front To the straight edge of the pleated body portion attach a shirred rufle-this as plain or as fancy as choice dictates, and this is intended to regulate the length of the garment. The fronts may be scanned together half way up or left open to dis play the petticoat front. For the full length garment in the accordeol pleated $ .yle not less than dozen yards of 22- inch silk will be required, and If the collar be fancy and the sleeve voiu- rninous due account must be taken of those features. For the little sacque six or seven yards may suit: while for the handkerchief sacques as little as
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-12-04

Dame Fashion seems to have divided her favor between long and short coats; but as the season goes on we shall doubtless find that the long examples are more used for auto and carriage wear, and the shorter and more jaunty styles will be seen In the promenade on the avenue Indeed. the younger portion of smart society lean decided ly to the shorter garment as being the more chic and becoming.
 While there are some exquisite gar ments entirely of ermine, such as a short loose box coat coming only to the curve of the hip and having cape sleeves caught into the side seams. those are for the few. rather than for the many, and the opportunities for their display are, 1t must be confessed, not such as occur every day. It is rather as an accessory or a trimming fur that ermine Is being most used. and for revers. neckpieces, muffs and millinery it is in high vogue with the fashionables.
 It really does seem most appropriate to display Russian furs in Russian fash ions. and so the dolman is seen at It's best in caracul. Persian lamb (which, de- suite its name, Is Russian producD
  One such-a long. loose affair that reaches below the knees-is fashioned with a chasuble collar of the baby lamb, the dolman sleeve caught in the char acteristic way to the curved side seams of the back. and collar of the rolling shawl variety in imperial sable that is enough to turn lover of furs green with envy. This same costly pelt edges the very loose full dolman sleeve. and is also employed to fashion the square muff-a recent innovation-and the tur- ban.
 In the less expensive pelts caracul Is well to the front. and the exquisite markings and pliable character of the skin make 1t very desirable for many uses. It is quite a fad to have coat loose or fitted. of this fur. and then em- ploy bands of varying widths to trim the cloth skirt that completes the cos- tume When black furs are worn the smart girl, unless she be in mourning, usually touches them up with some touch of contrasting fur. ermine for choice, or chinchilla. or even the undyed caracul itself.
 The extreme of elaboration marks some Of the smart wraps. Braids. cord ings, passamenteries. embroideries on silk and velvet, all are used with law ish hand. and the girl who can sew or emproider possesses q rare advantage over her fellows in the matter of ex- Qutsite decorations for her furs.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-12-04

Was there ever a daughter of Eve who could resist the Vaccinations of furs? One doubts it; and if there be such, then 1t were high time that she were con- verted to an appreciation of the furs and fabrics that so enhance even what small measure of beauty any woman may possess and lift her at one bound into the ranks of good-looling women.
 In the old days at Daly's Theater in one of the modish comedies that ran there the hero remarked to the heroine: How extremely becoming your furs arel You look more beautiful than ever in them.'' To which the heroine archly replied: I'll tell you secret: every woman does'
 And there's the secret of if. Every woman. no matter what her race. her type. her style. her colorfng may be. al- ways looks her very bestest best as the little folks in the nursery say, when she dons her furs.
 So. what wonder is 1t that even the most indifferent, the most stonily eco- nomieal will stretch their purse strings to the limit to indulge in furs Perhaps it is to acquire only a piece of dyed rab- bit skin that now cleverly stimulates the sable colorings though for the mo- ment only; or it may be to achieve a garment In imperial Russian sable for which a fortune must be paid. Either extreme and all that stretches between bears eloquent evidence to the becom- ingness and desirablity of furs.
 And this year 1t will not take the purse of a Fortunatus to provide Miladi with becoming styles in furs; for even the most inexpensive belts are made up in fashions that are in accord both with artistic grace and current style. Indeed, 1t is the expensive pelts that set the pace for all the rest.
 Once upon a time the rich and rare Russian sables-of which the supply is becoming alarmingly small-were usual ly made up into garments whose style would not cut much into the skins. Not only were the remnants of the gar nient than in hand needed, but the ex- agencies of future remodeling were taken into account Now, however, every freak and fad Of ickle fashion Is reproduced in those costly belts just as freely as in less expensive ones. How ever. in the fine economy of the fur rier's art nothing Is wasted. and even the smallest piece can be turned to r~ad account
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-12-04
A SAMPLE OF RUSSIAN MAG
 NIFIcENcE.


 It really seems most appropriate to make up the Russian furs after the Rus sian styles. for the fair danes of Russia are more or less independent in the matter of the style and shape wherein their furry possessions are worn. The Russian dolman is one of the very latest postulants for fashionable favor. and In the exquisite baby lamb Is seen to ad- vantage. The garment follows the loose and full sacque shape with the sleeve caught into the curved seams in the sidc back. Over the shoulders in the back there is a full pleated chasuble collar that falls to the waistline. The fronts are double breasted. the rolling shawl collar being of dark imperial sa- ble, and the dolman sleeve is edged with the same costly fur. Both toque and huff are likewise of sable. the tooue untrimmed and the huff with tails.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-12-04

four yards will make an acceptablos showing.
 Then there are the dainty butterfly sacques, for which shirtwaist pattern will be all right. The back is cut in one piece to come to the waist1ine, and tho fronts are extended into long ends that remind one of a stole. The sleeve is en- tire1y Q matter of choice. they are as plain or as fancy as you like to make them; but the, whole little garment is edged with lace and the fronts either tie loosely together or leftto hang free.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-12-04
sARLEs THAT COST A FORTUNE.

s@~@%s@@@@e~ @@A~A@ (0h7A fA s0 WA OASA1a
 Ins other days~the. rfcfls andrrars Rus sian sables were usually made Up In s1argei capes and wrnps styles being es- peciany selectedsthat would not callsfor ! much cutting into the skins. Now, how ever, every freak andifad ofsficlxle fash ion is reproduced in these costly belts Just as freely as in Cheaper ones. The latest fancy is shown in short jacket of exuuisitely dark sables the shape k being somewhat on the Eton order. with 3 deep front and long position back
 There-as a high roll collar that turns up
 about the head and face when desired: the. frontsyare rolled back in revers that sare faced with appliaues of real lace. theffur itself beingssomewhat too bulky Y to be used double at this point. The sleeve is the full pufr pattern that be- ! longs to the current seasou's styles, and groups of sable tails are posed at inter- vals with excellent and Jaunty effect. The muff is Of tho new square variety. l with a double fringe of the tails for fdecora lion, and the round turban is like wise of the fur, with an Empire green plume posed at the back for it's sole trimming.
 E WITH AN ExTRTMH or EMBEIs-
 LLSHMENT.
 Orsesof the latest features{ofs sfnsIYion ia | exemplified in the silks and velours and pushes that simulate fur to a f1fcety.
 Indeed. 80 marvellous is the verfsimfli- -ltude in many instances that one has to
 touch the garment not once or twice.
 but many times. to mako sure that it is
 the product of human ingenuity and not
 that of Dame Nature. Here ono of the
 ciIinchf1la pushes Is used. and thu coat
 fashioned upon the lines of the Louis
 Quinze period Tho upper part shows
 the broad shoulder and preabed fronts
 dropping Into the basutes that arc 1ilSe- wfse pleated over The hips. A passemen-
 terie bolero is posed over the shoulders:
 this supplied with an abundance of tas-
 sens that add marveious1y to the style. The girdle that tops the basquss fs or
 similar style, with long pendant erds that fall in frregulHT lengths almost to the feet The sleeve is a very simple puff, with a friiied cuff thaf falls far | down over the hand.
 LOUIS oUINzp COAT IN cARACUL. last season, just enough to launch It upon the wave of popularity which 1t enjoys among this winters furB- The exquisite markings of the fur make It | than for small neckpieces, pelerfnes. ! victorines and the like. In the Louis I Quinze model presented the coat follows | the classical lines. The neck is cut out in V-shape and filled in with fasci- hating chemisette of ermine, this set- 1 ting high and snug around the throat. l There Is a cape collar over the shoui- | ders. back and side fit closely to the hg- 1 ure, while the fronts drop In Eton style 1 over tho braid belt The basques are | full and ripply, setting closely over the
 hips and rippling almost to the knee. The sleeve IS al especially good model: | fairly large in the upper part and | spreading out into beil-shape below the
 elbow almost to the size of cape. The
 round granny huff Of ermine is in keep
 ing with the cute little chemisette.
The Saint Paul globe., 1904-01-31

avenue. entertained at small cinch
party Saturday afternoon. Three tables
were played In celebration OF her birth
day. after which chafing dish supper
was served
Miss Pauline Berchem. Of Hampden
avenue. entertained the l.. 3. T. v. club
Monday afternoon. Next Monday after
noon Miss Maud Mason will entertain
the club at her home on Nourse street.
The History Class will meet next
Thursday afternoon at the home of Mrs.
T. l.. Heacker. of Raymond avenue; sub
ject Jack Cade. the Scientist" with
Mrs c.. BackuS as leader.
Mrs. George Stanley Williams. Of Ray
mond avenue. gave luncheon on Wednes-
day for the Royal Ladies Court NO. l,
r. A, Of Minneapolis.
The South Side Whist club was en-
tertained Thursday evening at the home
of Mr. and Mrs. Henry l.. Hunter. on
Bayless avenue.
tanned Wednesday afternoon at the home
of Mrs. A. G. Wellington, on Common
wealth avenue.
Mr.. and Mrs. George H. shellenberger
entertained the first OF the week their
brother, r. c. White. of Humboldt. Iowa.
Mrs. F. s. Berry. of Iglehart street. en-
tertained the Ladies' Guild Of St Mat
thew's Guild on Monday afternoon.
The Young Peoples Card club was en-
tertained last evening at the home OF Miss
Fleda Heacker, on Raymond avenue.
Prof and Mrs. Robertson. Of Common
wealth avenue, have been entertaining
Mrs Ward and son, Of Bismarck.
Mrs. Olive White, Of Humboldt Iowa.
is visiting her daughter. Mrs George II.
Shellenberger, of Scudder avenue.
Mrs Stillman, of Minneapolis. was a
guest of Mrs. Justin e. Brown, OF Gibbs
avenue. part of the week.
Mrs. John Frisby, OF Nourse street, en-
tertained the Young Married Ladies' club
Monday afternoon.
Miss Mabel Pierce, of Scudder avenue.
has been entertaining friends from Eden
Prairie.
Mrs L. M. Leffingwell entertained the
last of the week Mrs. Newell, OF st.
Paul.
Mrs. Cary has returned from Cleveland.
Ohio.
The l.. B. T. v. club entertained few
friends Saturday evening at the home Of
The Saint Paul globe., 1904-01-31
HAMLINE e.

| The annual luncheon of the Fortnightly
| club was held at the home of Mrs G. w.
Boyer on Thursday afternoon. Mesdames
| Randall. Wolever, Johnston. Rich and
| Montgomery assisted in receiving. Mrs.
| A. j. Wallace was toast mistress Mrs.
| +. e. Brown responded to the toast Our
New Members" Mrs. J. P: Caldwell to
| "Our Men" and Mrs H. M. Evans to
"Retrospection," by an original poem.
| The decorations were in pink and white.
| In the absence of Mrs. 9. N. Akers the
president of the club, Mrs. E. w. Ran
dali presided
The Fortnightly club will meet Tuesday
| afternoon at the home OF Mrs. William
e. Brink. 147s Wesley avenue. Mrs.
George Budd VIII read a paper on The
England" and Mrs. Il. M. Fowble will
read one on Secular Buildings in Eng
| land"
The Hamline Mothers club will meet
on Wednesday afternoon at the home Of
Mrs. s. M. Kirkwood. Mrs. Margaret J..
! Blair, of the state experimental farm,
will give talk on sewing.
L. 3. Wickersham will give a lecture
under the Y. M. C. A. auspices of the
Hamline university in the chapel on FRI
| day evening, Feb. 5.
Mrs. Edgar Dunn. of Minneapolis. has
been spending Mrs part Of the week with
| Mr.. and Mrs. Lindberg, the recent
| guests Of Mr.. and Mrs. c. V. Lindberg,
have returned to Red Wing.
The Epiphany mission gave an epiphany
| party on Thursday evening at the home OF
| Mr.. and Mrs. H. A. Flint.
| The freshman class Of Hamline uni
versity gave a class party on Friday
evening at Masonic hall.
| Mr. and Mrs. III. M. Smith entertained
! at tea Wednesday evening for Miss Wins
| ton and Miss Cole.
Mr.. and Mrs. T. Montgomery have been
entertaining Mr.. and Mrs. G.. n. Purneli,
of Mcmillan, Wis.
| Mr.. James Norman, the guest of Mr..
| and Mrs. M. L. Holley, has returned to
Montevideo.
| Mr.. and Mrs. II. c. Behrens entertained
at dinner on Friday evening. Covers were
laid for ten.
Miss Cecile Cole entertained a few
friends informally at her home on Tuesday
evening.
Mr.. and Mrs. r. C. Robinson have been
entertaining Mr.. w. Hart, Of Washington
Mrs F. Goff, the guest of Mrs. c. L.
Webber, has returned to Walnut Grove.
DIR. Wallace Tiff. the guest of DIR. c. p.
Montgomery. has returned to Glencoe.
Miss Beatrice Billings and Miss Eva
White have returned from WaDasha.
| Miss Flora Rice the guest of Miss Pearl
Candall. has returned to Lake City.
The Ravens met Monday evening with
Mr. and Mrs. S. D. White.
The Hamline Six O'Clock club met Mon
day evening in the church parlors. Mr.
The Saint Paul globe., 1904-01-31
MERRIAM PARK.

The Christian Endeavor Society OF
Olivet Congregational gave sleighing
party last Friday evening. On returning
NJ %r the r9 PARK r they stopPs,d at the home OF
avenue, where light refreshments were
served.
The leap year dancing party given by
the young married ladies and the young
people OF the park Tuesday evening at
Woodruff hall was a great success There
We're eighty guests present Mrs. /. NJ.
Rose served punch.
The Young Peoples Mission Club OF
Trinity NJ 10. Church will give a weight
social Thursday evening. Feb. II. at the
home of Mr.. and Mrs. w. o. Hillman. OF
Dewey avenue.
Mr. and Mrs. A. T.. Ries. OF Iglehart
club Monday evening. Those making high
scores were Mrs. Ries and Mr.. F. q.
koerner.
Mrs. MCGEE. of Dayton avenue enter
tanned the Dayton avenue Card club last
Tuesday afternoon. Prizes were won by
Mrs. Van Kirk and Mrs. MCGEE.
Mr.. and Mrs. II. c. Graham. of NIL
waukee. who have been guests OF Mr..
nue.. have returned home.
Mrs. Irving NJ. Winslow, OF Iglehart
street, will entertain the Ladies' Aid So
ciety of .Olivet Congregational Church
Friday afternoon.
Mrs. A. T. Patterson. of Bismarck. N.
D., who has been visiting her mother.
Mrs. L.. f. Hall. Of Iglehart street. has
returned home.
Rev. W. P. Ten Broeck, OF FarIbault.
gave. lecture Friday evening on tho
Book of Revelation" at ST. Marys Epls-
copal church.
Mrs Frank Tuttle. of Iglehart street,
will entertain the Daughters of the King
of st. Mary's Episcopal Church Monday
afternoon.
Rev. ]. IT. sammis, of Olivet Congre-
| gatlonal church: will begin series OF
sermons on "The Lords Prayer" this
Mrs. Wiseman who has been the guest
| of Mrs. A. b. Rand, of st. Anthony ave-
nue.. has returned to her home in Pine
| City.
| Miss Letta Phipps. Marshall avenue.
| left Friday for a months visit in Green
| Bay, Oshkosh and Neenah, Wis.
Miss Anderson. of Carroll street. will
leave shortly for bloomington, ILL.,, to
| visit Mrs. Harry Stevenson.
The U. NJ O. club gave the last In
series of dancing parties at Woodruff
| hall last Saturday evening.
The Bible study class met last Tuesday
| evening at the home of Mr.. and Mrs. A.
| G. Hodson, Carroll street.
Allan Benham, from Yale collage. Is the
| guest of his parents. Mr.. and Mrs. e. M.
| Benham, of Carroll street.
Mrs. A. IT, Anderson. OF ST. Anthony
| avenue. is entertaining Mrs. A. ]. Rustad,
| of Moorhead. MINI.
| The Misses Louise and Armine Watkins,
| of st. Mary's hall, Faribaut. are homo
| for a short visit
Mrs. s. G. Cobb. Marshall avenue. is
| entertaining her nephew. Mr.. Cutter. OF
| Abottsford, Wis.
| Miss Richardson, OF Lake City. Is tho
| guest Of Mrs. +. L. Beckley, of Marshall
| avenue.
| e. A. Currle, st. Anthony avenue. has
| returned to his ranch at Dickinson, N.
| ID.
Mr.. and Mrs. Rainier. of Marshall ave-
nue.. are visiting in Chicago.
Robert Benham, of Carroll street. has
! returned from Denver. Col.
The Saint Paul globe., 1904-01-31

| evening by Messrs. Edward Heinlbach and
| Ira Pierson. at Wittichs hall. corner
/ State and Robie streets.
| The Ladies' Aid Society of the Hebron
! Baptist Church meets Thursday after
noon at the home of Mrs. w. Darratt, on
| East Congress street.
| Miss Clara Longdike, of Colorado
| street, entertained Saturday afternoon.
Progressive pit was played.
Mrs. C. Thayer: of East Winifred
street is entertaining Miss Jennie Thay-
| er. Of White Bear lake.
The Alpha club gave a dancing party
| Wednesday evening at K. of p. hall on
| South Wabasha street
| Miss Helen OBrien, of Dunedin ter
| race Is in st. James, Mimi, listing
friends and relatives.
Mrs. II. H. Holden, of Wadena Mimi,
| is the guest of her mother Mrs. J. Cof-
fers of Sidney street.
Mrs. p d. Godfrey, of East Congress
| street entertained the Eradelphians
! Tuesday afternoon.
The Ladies, Study class meets Friday
afternoon with Mrs. V. J. Hawkins, of
| East Isabel street.
/ The Young Peoples Whist club met last
/ evening with Miss Gertrude Hanley of
| East Robie street.
Dr. T. w. Roberts. of Clinton avenue.
| left last week for a six weeks visit at
| Los Angeles, Cal.
! The Laeta Decem club danced Friday
evening at K. p. hall. South Wabasha and
| Colorado streets.
Miss Katherine Calvin. of East Wini-
fred street, is entertaining Miss Readily.
of Fargo, n. ID.
Mrs L. Peabody. of Dunedin terrace.
has as her guest Miss Libbey. of New
! Richmond, Wis.
The Fleur de Lis Euchre club met Fri
day afternoon with Mrs. F. Smith Of
George street.
Mr.. E. Keck, of Bidwell street, left
last week for Spokane, Wash, on a
business trip.
On Thursday afternoon Mrs. Mueller.
of Bancroft street entertained the Mach
| bar club.
John Mangen. of Louisa street. enter
| tanned a company of friends Thursday
evening.
Mr.. William Oehler and son Percy. of
| Dunedin terrace, have gone to Big Stone.
| MINI.
Mrs. Martin Hunt. of Midway avenue,
entertained at dinner Wednesday even
| ing.
Mrs. II. A. Starr. of Lake City, has re-
| turned, after visiting Mrs. ]. F. Baker.
Mrs A. Rarick, of Ohio street. gave a
o'clock tea last Thursday afternoon.
Frank McIntire, of Greenwood avenue,
has gone to Los Angeles, Cal.
The Saint Paul globe., 1904-01-31

euchre was played and prizes were won
by Mr.. Rogers. Mrs. Dobson and Mrs.
Neimann
Mrs. J.. B. Marks. of Cannon Falls. was
a guest of Mrs. John Levins, of Lawson
street. part of the week.
Miss Lillian Elmquist entertained few
friends Saturday evening. Music and
games were the features.
Mr.. and Mrs. H. G. Alpin, who were
on their wedding trip. were guests of Mrs.
Clark, of Case street.
Mrs. l. Tanner. of Belleview avenue,
entertained the Hiawatha Euchre club
Thursday evening.
Mrs Sedgewick of Livingston. Mont.
has been visiting Miss Parsons of West
minister street
Miss Jennie Paulson. of Burr street
has been entertaining Miss Emma Olson,
of Red Wing.
The Misses Wellock. of Lawson street
have been entertaining Miss Brannon, of
Clearwater.
Mrs. G. L. Chester of Olive street, is
entertaining Charles Fiske, of Everett
Wash.
Mrs. r. "A. Mason. of Jackson street
has returned from Cedar Rapids, Iowa.
Mrs. John Fowler and Miss nellie Davis
have returned from Little Rock. Ark.
The Courtland Social club gave a dane
ing party last evening in Bowlby hall.
Mrs. Bert Sullivan has gone to Carter
The Saint Paul globe., 1904-01-31
NORTH ST. PAUL.

The Bible study class met at the homo
of Mr.. and Mrs. G. w. Rogers Tuesday
last Miss Zara Sweazey led the meet
ing The next meeting will be held with
Mr.. and Mrs. I. b. Hagaman and will be
led by Miss Lizzie Body
Miss Della Hackert. of ST. Anthony
Park. was a guest of Mrs. John Luger
few days of the past week.
Mr. and Mrs Nj. W. Carrots. OF Quincy.
ILL.,. were guests OF Mrs. Z. l.. Morgan
Thursday and Friday.
Miss Bertha Armstrong, OF st. Paul.
was a guest of Mr.. and Mrs. William
Fitch Sunday.
Mr.. and Mrs Frank Glander. OF st.
Paul, were guests of Mr. and Mrs. Carl
son Sunday.
Miss Rose Rufenacht entertained few
of her friends at sleighing party last
evening.
Mrs. ]. Bechen, of Wabasha, Mimi, was
a guest of Mr.. and Mrs. Gross the past
week.
Miss Ethel Smith entertained the w.
l. T. U. at a ''Flinch" party Thursday
last.
St. Mary's Altar society gave a card
party at Fraternal hall last evening.
Mrs. Il. A. Stees. OF st. Paul, was a
guest of Mrs Morgan Friday.
Mrs Florence ingalls, has returned from
Pine Island
Miss Josie Fay spent Sunday last in
Minneapolis.
The Saint Paul globe., 1904-01-31
HAZEL PARK.

Mr. and Mrs. John Gunther and daugh-
ter Gertrude. of Aurora avenue, were the
guests of their parents, Mr. and Mrs. John
Gunther. of White Bear avenue.
Mr.. 70. l.. Lepel, OF White Bear ave-
nue., was pleasantly surprised by a few
of his friends on Tuesday evening. About
sixty were present.
Mrs. j. Latin. of Saltwater avenue. will
entertain the Stoddard Lecture club Tues
day. The subject will be Berlin.
Mrs. Il. NJ. Lyons of White Bear ave-
nue., spent last Tuesday with Mrs. II.
Lind. Of Minneapolis.
Mr.. and Mrs. c. w. Lyon. OF Mime
apolis. spent Thursday with park friends.
Mrs. Graves. OF Minneapolis, has been
visiting friends OF the park.
The Saint Paul globe., 1904-01-31

each gathered at the top and trimmed
on the lower edge with a large Greek
fret" made OF two lines of the tiniest
of shaded pink chiffon rosebuds.
The bodice Is full blouse cut round
at the neck and trimmed with a band
of deep pink panne velvet with wide
ruff1e below of the rose -colored Jersey
cloth, ornamented with pink rosebuds
in the Greek fret" design, and on the
left shoulder Is fastened lovely spray
of artificial roses.
The ruffle bordering the decolletage
also does duty for sleeves, though there
are small puffs under the ruffie that
just cover the shoulders, but these
merely serve to broaden the shoulder
line by holding the ruffle off the arms
and are not seen. The belt Is OF the
deep pink panne velvet.
This style of ornamentatlon, when
carried out In baby velvet ribbon, Is
admirably adapted to net gowns. as the
ribbon in double or treble rows may
be run through the meshes of the net
to form the desired design.