The Vinita daily chieftain. [volume] (Vinita, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1902-1913, 1904-05-02
SUITS AND GOWNS FOR 1904.
The shirt waist suit VIII he to the
FOre--shirrs and Puns the
Rule In Gowns.

The 1904 spring shirt waist suit is a
more carefully studied costume, TO all
appearances. than its predecessors. 1t
is. as a rule, rather more elaborate.
despite the fact that the original inten-
tion OF the suit was simplicity, and
that its popularity was the result Of an
inward protest against the overturned
gown, says the New York Post. A
coarse linen suit in string color
Is trimmed with bands OF Russian cross
stitch, red being the dominant colcr.
The shirt waist shows the long shoulder
lines demanded by fashion, and these
are emphasized by bands of the color
ed trimming. A band covers the but
tons and button holes. and make the
small tight cuff The skirt is not
trimmed with bands, but has the cross
.,.4.4to pattern done directly on the
linen One line is brought clown the
front. and two shorter lines from the
hem to within IS inches Of the belt are
on either side.
Another suit Is trimmed with clear
blue and white cross stitched bands.
The shirt is tucked in two groups Of
wide tucks on either side of stud
band of the cross stitch. Short pointed
bands are stitched fiat between the
groups to match the shirt This COM
bination of embroidery and applied
bands is very good indeed
Shirt waist suits of etamine linens
and cottons are put together with fag-
oting or bands of self color embroidery.
In the main the skirt is trimmed to
match the waist. Very few plain skirts
are seen as yet.
The vogue Of shirred and puffed
gowns, especially those for evening
wear, is undeniabIe A shirred gown
needs to be made by skilful dress
maker, or else the wearer must content
herself with looking like a barrel Care
should be taken not to use too much
material. The shirring can be made
to look quite full without being
punched One pretty shirred gown was
worn at a recent dinner Rose pink ]
silk muslin over steel spangled net was
the material, and the skirt was shirred
In four large puffs beginning at the hips
and ending above the graduated fiounce
which formed the tain. Each line CT
shirring was high in the back and
sloped to a rounded point IN the front.
and was covered with band of span
gled pink lace A band of the lace was
carried down the front of the gown,
waist and skirt. panel wise. The low
blouse was simply shirred around the
shoulders and finished with bertha of
the lace. The sleeves were large puffs. |
bordered at the top. where they slipped !
on the shoulders with lace A narrow |
band Of pink satin ribbon crossed the
shoulder and held up the gown. Fitted
girdle and ends Of satin ribbon.
Log garnitures Of flowers are used to
trim evening gowns. A wreath in the |
left side OF the low bodice is a decora-
ton very often seen Evening gowns,
BY the way, are not cut as low as they
were last year Flower trimmings on
evening gowns should be as carefully
studied by the wearers of the gowns as
flowers in the hair The least mistake
Is fatal TO the beauty Of the costume.
For example, a tan girl can wear
long rope Of flowers. while a slender
girl Of medium height or small girl
would be simply extinguished by such
decoration. To some long garland
1n the left side would not be becoming
without similar smaller trimming Of
lowers on the right shoulder. Some
have to forego wreaths altogether. n
hey are not becoming. substitute
lunches of flowers. Very young girls
Affect the small chiffon roses ard other
lowers so skilfully made now. These
ONE in bands and wreaths IN the
hops. and are not extremely expen-
I've. White mousselines and tulles are
harming trimmed with these fragile
hinps