The sun., 1904-07-10


laces do not look 30 fine and creamy and
becoming after they are washed; shirrings,
puhings, &C., never come through the hands
OF even the most expert faundress with all
their pristine charm, and some OF the most
attractive thin stuffs. such as the organdies,
do not actually launder we'll.
frocks simply made and easily laundered
are boon, the more formal evening frock
Is usually planned regardless OF Tubing
possibilities, and, when careful pressing
will no longer freshen It. is sent to be dry
cleansed. Luckily the cleaning establish
ments have learned the art Of doing these
sheer summer frocks beautifully, and the
prices are not exorbitant.
The groups of evening frocks selected
for the large cut will furnish attractive
models for any sheer summer stun, and
though all will call for the services of
cleanser, they are simply made and could
be easily copied.
Possibly the least complicated of the
five was frock of white muslin, very sheer
and fine. The full skirt was OF the triple
founce variety, which will not down, de-
spite many predictions Of its downfall.
On each founce are four inset rows OF
lace insertion with irregular edge, the bot
tom row bordering the founce. These
rows Of lace are interrupted at either side
of the narrow front breadth, and across
the plain spaces are set ribbon bows. which
have the effect of joining the lace bands,
and which break attractively the monotony
Of line.
The square decoletage is bordered by
q line Of lace. and the full vesuike front OF
the bodice has four horizontal lines OF lace
corresponding with the skirt trimming
The elbow sleeves. too, are made OF four
horizontal bands Of lace, separated by
small puffs of the muslin.
The sleeves ft the arm snugly from shoul-
der to elbow, and this is but one Of the straws
which. indicate a fashion current setting
steadily away from the voluminous draped
sleeves adopted during the last season.
Not to-day nor tomorrow will the huge
and picturesque sleeve be quite out OF style
but the movement toward smaller sleeves
has been perceptible for some time past
In Paris, and when the heavier and richer
materials come to the front in the fall, the
chances are that the snug sleeve will push
Its more ample rival hard for first place.
The sleeve fulness has gradually crept
from the wrist up the arm to the shoulder,
and the old time gigot sleeve divides favor
with the sleeve Of puffs or frils. Directoire
coats with close sleeves and incroyable
collars and cuffs have been much in evil
dence at the French races, which are the
summer fashion shows best worth study.
The genuine Louis frooks, which are de-
cidedly in the lead this summer, save for the
1880 taffeta costumes, have comparatively
close sleeves to the elbow.
The square decolletage OF the muslin
frocks Just described, is another note OF
CHANGE By far the largest percentage
Of the low necked summer frocks this sea-
son are cut with either square or V-shaved
decolletage and though the low round de-
oolletage IL still seen. it hasn't its former
prestige.
The lines of the bodice have been slowly
but surely undergoing change and al.
ready the silhouette in vogue few shorp
months ago looks odd. The decided pouch
of the blouse has entirely disappeared, the
bust line has creptup, the folds Of the bodice
have been drawn closer to the figure.
The pointed bodice is now the thing and
It fits in sheathlike fashion, defining bust
and wsist lines and making the figure ap-
pear svelte and slender above the ampli-
tude of the full skirt folds.
The extreme straight front-or rather the
exaggerated and burlesque straight front,
has found the disiavor 1t deserved. and
though the fashionable figure still main
tains comparatively straight line in front
it is the natural line Of the woman who
carries herself we'll, not the absurd and alb
normal shelving away produced by exag-
ot,- ;<vt,t fol H.
however, served a good purpose in teach
ing many women how to carry themselves
erect with chest up and abdomen In, and
these rules Of carriage are as imperative
now as ever.
The little wreaths ard garlar d. that
trim many OF the evening frooks are like
the close sleeves the quaint fichus, the
pointed be dices, DC, echoes from Trianon
days; and il d sed the we'll dressed woman Of
the season, in her picture frocks, is dis
t;nctly reminiscent Of Marie Antoinette
and her court.
Even the tapping leghorn hats loved
by the il-fat, d Queen and never quite out
of favsr in all the years between, are now
having a triumphant renaissance in Paris
ard. flower trimm d. are a delightful ac-
compartment to the s'rigged percale frocks
already mentiont d al to the other sum-
merry Trianon costumes.
There is, by the way "linon iardiniere'
over which Parisians wax enthusiastic
ard which has a soft, clear, bu6 ground.
sprinktd with little bouquets woven in
the palmer shades. Broderie dn9taise is
the trimming most faIoi, d for these frocks
as for all of the heavier cottons and linons.
But to 20 back to the evening frocks. Tulle
is very popular for youthful wearers. but
is, OF course, lamentably perishable and
absolutely impracticable for seashore wear.
French debutantes have been affecting
a compromise by wearing evening frocks
OF soft white taffeta combined with tulle-
full tulle ruches on the skirts aId bodice
swathing, sleeves, &c. Of tulle. But while
these frocks may be freshened more easily
than all tulle frocks. some material more
substantial than tulle is wise choice for
summer wear.
A dotted silk MULE which has consider
able body and may be kept fresh by careful
pressing is a charming stuff for the summer
evening frock and was the material used