Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1904-01-16

material WlJn YOKE lOTlutu VI Ndleu-
ciennes insertion joined with feather
stitching with white and gold silk
The yoke was finished in points bor-
dered with a ruffle composed of val
enciennes insertion alternated with
chiffon embroidery then bound along
the edge with organdie.
The sleeves are close fitting at the
top and below the elbow were
formed Of the insertion gathered into
a simple cuff of organdie.
Another fetching model was shown
in dead white liberty viole, a new
material of diaphanous weave and
high lustre There was no yoke, but
bands of irregular heightened inser-
ton were stitched in the front to the
bustline in horizontal effect. Below
these bands the blouse was tucked
around the figure. The sleeves we're
trimmed in the same way and caught
into cuffs of lace insertion
The latter is very becoming, espec-
tally to slender figures, but the round
and round tucks are fatal to the out
line of robust forms.
Some beautiful belts and stocks
accompany the new waists. The for
mer are of white kid combined with
silk and the various metals such as
dull silver, gun metal and gold. Stocks
do not show much that is new, but
the lack of novelty is amply supplied
in the artistic arrangement of the
latest neck finishings.
The go-between styles that will be
seen between now and the regular
spring openings leave nothing to be
desired. Smart women are inclined to
change off from cheviots and zibelines
to hop sacking, canvass and the dia-
gonal serges. These are made in
tailor fashion and trimmed smartly
Jackets are getting shorter and many
show the cutest little facings of en-
broidered felt and silk. Hop sacking
with a hairy nap is very "swell" to use
a vulgar expression. A chic model Is
trimmed with black and the jacket
has four overlapping cape collars,
while the skirt is gored and stitched
until it almost stands alone.
Nothing has held its own among
fashionable trimmings like Mexican
drawn work. This fact is no doubt
due to the difficulty OF initiating the
decorating and its well sustained
price. It is shown on frocks Of all
descriptions and appears to especial
advantage on a tailored design in
coarse, wiry canvass. The Mexican
drawn work is executed on the fabric
itself, combined with crewel embroid.
cry. The canvass is a queer shade Of
light brown suggesting mile or putty,
1t is uncertain which, and the EN-.
broidery is pale rose. A rose-colorel
suede belt confines the bodice and
is clasped with a big coral buckle.
Matching the gown is an elegant mole.
skin coat lined with rose-colored
panne velvet, over which falls a low
cape of moleskin.
The daintiest features of dresses
made in diaphanous materials for af.
ternoon and evening wear are their
girdles, sashes and other waist trim
mings. These have never been so
varied and delightfully."- chic as this
season. Dresden and Vatican ribbons
are mostly used. Stout figures look
well in the corsage bands that support
the figure while curving into lines
that often lend grace and comeliness
where there is none. Sylph-like forms
requiring perfect freedom with a GER
tain air of abandon for their greatest
effect are held in slightly with soft
belts. 1t is no longer the smart thing
to tie a belt in a bow at the back,
neither are long streamers worn.
The Ascot sash is the newest creation
and very prett. 1t consists of a band
of Dresden or Watteau ribbon brought
around the waist and tied in a four
inland knot at the back. Instead of
hanging straight and stiff, the ends
of the ribbon are pinched up and
finished with silk tassels of looped
through embroidered silk rings.
There is no diminuition OF the shawl
craze and pelerines made of camePs
hair or embroidered silk shawls are
considered very desirable to include
in ones wardrobe. The quaintest of
these draperies are finished with
netted fringes. Oftentimes two shawls
are used to trim one decolletage, one
on each shoulder, the painted ends
crossing back and front and tucking
into a prmly plated girdle.
The jeweled dingle bangles that the