davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-07-10

come in canvas weaves as we'll as the
plain, smooth linen and small patterns
of damask, this is easily accomplished.
Both the round and square doylies
are used as insets for shirt waists. II
they are very small they are set three
In row, TO form a panel on the front
and the sides. and cut into points for
the cuffs and collar. Some of them,
especially those used for tailored eff
fects showing embroidery. come in
| fine quality of linen. They can be
picked up in delicate drawn work with
inset of teneriffe lace. Such doylies
are TO be had at sales as low as and
10 cents each. Combined with white
crash or linen, they give all the ap-
pearanee OF blouse evolved from
hand work.
a saleswoman in big linen shop
tells Of waist which was made from
nine square doylies of Mexican drawn
work, which. when completed. was the
equal of many a twelve or fifteen dol
lar waist on exhibition In the womens
suit department.. The owner of the
waist picked up the doyles for 25 cents
each, because they were badly soiled
from exposure in the show windows.
She washed and shrank them along
with the sheer, fine linen with which
they We're combined. which was used
only I'm the sleeves and the under side
Of the bodice.
The secret OF success in employing
table linen IN this fashion lies in the
successful combination and Joining
with the dress linen. This particular
neglected. the completed garment viii
have the appearance OF patchwork
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-07-10
Gowns for Resorts Show The
Seasons Fancy for Simplicity
All Sorts of Garnhng RELOCATED Manipulated
in Ways Far More Productive of Charm.

AS far as make is concerned. the
costumes being built for out-of-tow
resorts demonstrate to the highest de-
gree the seasons fancy for the sim
pie. Over-fussy gowns are seen. for
all women are not wise in their gen
GRAFTON. but the majority of the cos
TUNES affect a plsinness which, in it
self, is a coquetry.
The many fancy braids galloons
and laces introducing colored silk pas
sementeries, offered at the beginning
of the season. are conspicuous by their
absence. These hiGh-priced farnish-
ings, along with other motives fash
ion has set aside as impracticable for
chic results. are now RELOCATED to the
bargain counters of the shops. and in
their stead are seen the gown textures
themselves manipulated in ways far
more productive of charm.
Delicate veilings are treated to
tucks. drawn threads, shirrings and
what not the main object, apparently,
being TO show off the possibilities of
these fairy materials. Wide tucks up
on skirts, of which there are legions,
may he stitched both top and bottom
and edged with modest piping of
matching silk.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-07-10
By KATHERINE ANDERSON.

waist lining for a net dress. the mid
dle-aged woman is not confined to
white and lavender for there are sill
very greens. blues and pinks that are
none too gay for the woman of forty
five. With a bertha of real lace, or one
of the less expensive berthas of re-
pOusse or point de venise, a simple
black net becomes an elegant and dig
nified confectiCn.
When the net is worn over a drop
skirt and lining of white taffeta, it is
not unusual to see a bertha or fichu
effect evolved from a combination of
white and black lace black chantilly
being used over a heavier cream or
pure white lace; or a silk lace, like
black Spanish, being draped over ac-
contemplated white lisse.
Organizes and printed chiffons for
evening wear show such delicate color
ings that, With plenty of white lace
they can be worn by women well ad-
vanced in years, provided colored rib
bons and girdles are avoided.
An organdy costume sent out by a
smart Eastern shop for a Newport
doWager, shows a pale yellow rose pat
tern on a white ground. The skirt is
shirred on the sides and i'm the back,
leaving the front gore plain, with the
effect of panel outlined on either side
by three rows of exquisite valencienneS
insertion. The latter turns just above
the hem and runs entirely around the
full 1880 skirt. The blouse closes, sur
plce fashion. in the front, with tuck
er of pure white organdy tucking, al
ternating with valenciennes insertion
The bishop sleeves are gathered into a
deep cuff of the tucked white organdy
and narrow insertion, and the girdle is
of white mesSaline.
The hat to be worn with this simple
but expensive frock is a large toque of
white lace. falling over a brim massed
with yellow roses. While this gown
could be worn appropria tely by a deb
utante, it is equally suitable and really
more becoming to her chaperon.
These expensive French organdies,
with their exquisite coloring, are re-
produced in the cheaper materials, such
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-07-10

| long-tailed back are of the lace, as are
also the three-quarter, bell-shaped
sleeves, with lining of taffetas. The
embroidered and sequined chiffon is in
troduced in the vest, with rhinestone
buttons, and in the under-sleeves.
where it falls in triple flounces. This
coat, worn with a crepe de chine or
mousseline gown. either black or white.
would be most attractive.
For separate bodices and blouses,
fine net, with lace or chiffon appliques
and tiny ribbon ruchings. is much used.
For the morning shirt waist there are
many beautiful patterns in figured
challies or silky flannels, in stripes and
small figures. A smart shirt waist to
be worn with a green cloth skirt,
showed smalls ovals done in green silk
eyelet work on plain ecru flannel. AT
the neck there was a stock of green
ribbon finish, with a turnover of tan
canvas done in duh green and red silk
embroidery.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-07-10
A Novel Use for
Linen DoyIies

The long. sloping shoulder effects
and deep bertnas, which are factors
in the 1890 modes, are responsible for
a peculiar trade.
The summer sales Of embroidered
table linen. doylies and center pieces
Of Mexican drawn work have been at
tended not by interested housewives.
but by the very large class of women
who are always anxious 10 keep up
with the styles at the least cost TO
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-07-10

to T by the various shades of brown.
and a gown in two tints may have
the shoe heels in the darker on
But many things, too subtly un-
obstrusive in themselves to receive
marked notice, go toward making up
the fashionable whole. When the per-
feet Vision passes before you, you
know only that it is perfect You
do not see shoe heels, or remark that
the chantilly veil hangs as it should,
like "A loose curtain; or notice that the
maline one is as II ought to be- the
merest web. You only receive an i'm
preston of sublime affinity between
raiment and wearer, and say when YOU
get your breath: who is she, l
wonder?"
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-07-10

For afternoon frocks there are ex-
quisite colorings in crepe de chine, veil
ing. silks, batistes, organizes and
lawns, far removed from the vice. prim
models once considered the only
things suitable for the woman past her
prime. For evening wear there is an
equally large range of weaves, from
almost transparent grenadines, with
satin figures, dots or stripes. to all
over lace robes. that are not nearly so
expensive as the inexperienced shop
per might imagine.
There is nothing more servicea BILE
for a summer dinner or evening dress
than one of the black silk nets, or a
dotted net, for which a woman may
have a variety of silk slips, and an
equal variety of berthas. fuckers,
1ichus, etc.
Not Confined to Lavender ana
White.
When selecting the drop skirt and
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-07-10

ing red and green combined with gold.
Bulgarian embroidery has by 10
means lost its vogue, but with it's
vivid blue and red patterns, il is used
in a limited quantity. For boudoirs,
theer are some very Frenchy designs
in such prosaic articles as cushion
tops. sewing bags, bureau scarfs. etc,
done i'm pastel shades of blue. rose,
yellow, lavender and a most peculiar
ashes Of roses, the color combinations
suggesting a Marie Antoinette atmos-
phere.
For the woman who boards receipts
there are bill or receipt books covered
with cretonne In so many designs that
one can match almost any room.
These bill books open and shut like
an accordion. and the cover and flaps
are also of cretonne.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-07-10
The shirt Waist Suit.

The shirt Waist Suit.
For the silk shirt waist suit there is
nothing more practical than the small
check or the hair-stripe. Piping and
cording are not much used this sum-
mer, but stitched bands and straps,
embroidered bands in harmonious
tints and coarse laces are much used
in trimming the Indispensable shirt
waist suit.
There is nothing more effective than
wolfe or etamine dress for a cool
day frock Here, again. the dowager
has the best of it. Yelling is essenti-
ally dignified fabric, and, if prop
erly draped. gives hight and an air."
The woman whose figure is no
longer slender should avoid quantities
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-07-10
White Under-bIouses.

The white under-blouses. which form
a part of many of these charming
dresses, and over which are worn
short jackets in various cuts, are as
unpretentious. Wash silks or mousse
line compose many, and the fad is to
leave these pretty textiles as plain as
possible, though tucks, drawn threads
and French knots are trimmings al
lowed. Unlined stocks and deep cuff
bands of narrow French laces whip
ped together are sometimes dressy
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-07-10
By MARY DEAN.

frocks are seen in the richest hues,
with often the paTasol in the same
pique. duck or linen. Heavy cream
or white Iaces and embroideries deck
the blouse bodices or jackets of these.
but the stitched. tucked or pleated
skirts are most often untrimmed, the
faultless machine sewing exploited on
them excepted.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-07-10

Brim Hendgear.
Brim headgear. bewildering with
bloom, are worn with such gowns. as
are Kid or canvas shoes in matching
colors or white. The modish glove is of
silk and a dark note-in truth, it is
coal black. Worn high up on the arm,
these sombre hand coverings have
brought about one reform-not so
many rings are seen. Rings this sea-
son are less fashionable than black
gloves.
At watering places especially such
hand coverings are the rage, accom-
panying race course and casino frocks
in dazzling tints and ball-like mate
rails. one gown recently seen employed
an old-fa shioned method of trimming
that the home sewer might copy with
ease and to advantage. Rose colored
taffeta was the material of this charm
ing costume, whose narrow frills were
buttonholed in scaIlops. Another de-
lightful taffeta frock was openly and
unblushingly ''pinked" in scaHOps, the
color Of this a sort of steely blue. with
a combina ton of saffron lace for the
bodice.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-07-10
ProdienI With Color.

Never was dress more prodigal with
color than now, and So if only be-
cause of contrast, the black and white
effects are considered choice Some
of the silks in this motive are striped
with the barest thread of white,
scarlet or green silk girdles trimmed
with gilt supplying the gay touch.
The parasol and hat may strike the
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-07-10

touches. and with a black and white
1rock the high kid or silk girdle may
be in brilliant color.
Sheperd's plaid woods i'm this com
bination are quite the fury of the mo-
ment, and the short little walking
dresses seen in them seem very styl-
ish. Generally. the skirts are in cir
cular form. fitted with stitched pleats.
which sometimes start from hip
yoke. The upper garment is the
ubiquitous short coat which almost
invariably forms part of such cos
tunes, though here and there will be
a little cape effect equally jaunty.
This seems the merest circle of the
unlined material cut at the throat to
show the stock of the under blouse and
edged there and at the bottom with a
narrow travelled ruching. Like the
jackets. the cape is short enough to
display all of the deep girdle and If il
is in two sections, as is sometimes the
case, the halves are joined at the back
with ladder Of square bows.
Pretty Walking FrOcks.
Foulard and taneta silk likewise
shape pretty walking frocks fashioned
on the same lines and with all such
toilettes big crowned French sailors are
much worn. Close wreaths of big roses
put at the top Of the crown. or con-
trasting kid belts trim i'm number Of
these and, strange as II may SEEM
the severe plainness of this species Of
headgear is more becoming than 9th
erwise. In fact. millinery so runs to
set lines that il takes considera BILE
good looks to carry off a fussy head
piece. and a fine suit Of hair. arranged
in a generous pompadour. is also often
necessary
The handsomest and most distinctive
of the seasons styles are without doubt
those supplied for watering place use,
the amusements of such resorts calling
for special elegance in dress. At the
smarter places, though they may be
fashioned Of tub textures. morning
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-07-10
Summer Styles for DOwager and Chaperon
The Woman Who Has Passed the First Flush of May Rejoice This
Years Modes.

This year the dowager may enjoy a
sartorial triumph over the debutante
For every weave that lends itself to
girlish wear, there are five that sug-
gest grandmothers and great grand
mothers. For every mode in frock
building that is youthful there are ten
which add years to the NEST slender
and girlish figure. And as for wraps,
they are distinctly evolved for the wo-
man who is in the full flush of ma
turity, if not verging on the silvery
hair age.
In the matter of weaves the dowa-
ger has bewildering array spread be-
fore her. The white linens, shot with
black or trimmed with embroidered
bands; exquisitely colored, but still
dignified, are above reproach for morn
ing wear. Fine black voiles, shot with
white, may be made into dressy trav-
cling gowns. All the colored veilings
cling well to the figure, and give slen-
der lines if properly cut. In silks the
dowager has the field almost to her
self, for the glace silks have a way of
making the girl who wants to look
young acquire a year in spite of the
most girlish colorings she may select
Even the pin-striped silks, the small
checks and daintily figured grounds all
have that sheen of silver which is adj
mirable for the woman of advancing
years.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-07-10

With an afternoon gown of black
with a scarlet touch somewhere, black
patent leather slippers are seen with
scarlet heels and trimmings. Pongees
and sef-colored linens are matched
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-07-10

as batiste and lawn, and can be made
up with a good quality of imitation
valencennes to give almost as satisfac-
tory an effect as the real pompadour
organizes.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-07-10

same vivid note, for all things said
and done, black and white is only an
excuse to show off color.
All black evening frocks are fire.
quently set off with girdles of POM
padour ribbon. while dull grays and
Indifferent blues will get life from
touches of orange.
a new tint seen in closely woven
silk tissues is called onion brown
This is in the shade of the delicate
skin which covers some varieties of
the vegetable. and il is usuallyacom-
bined with pure white.
Watering Place Materials.
Among the simpler watering-place
materials worn both morning and
afternoon, the time honored foulard
occupies a place by no means obscure
Blues and browns, with combinations
Of black and white, are more seen
than other colors, and simple shirt
waist models prevail over more elabo-
rate designs. Deep linen collars and
turnover cuffs give Partisan toucn
to such costumes, with which, also.
simple lingeres hats OF lace. pleated
lawn or null are frequently worn.
If the gown is blue. IL not uncom-
monty happens that the silk or cham
bray pettlcoat is a bright apple green.
for green and blue is a mixture stil
much seen. With fancy straw turbans
in rich and sparkling blues, owl heads
In vivid green are often placed each
side Of the front. Chantilly and silk
tissue wells in this combination are
likewise TO be found but since they
are not always identifying. few are
brave enough 10 wear them.
Coauettish ToiIetteS.
The soft cotton and crisp gauze ma
tcrals used for the coquettish toilettes
worn all day by Watering place eie-
gantes are numberless. II waters are
TO be drunk. the get-up that goes to
the spring effects a modesty delicious
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-07-10
On nirectnire Lines.

dressy wrap seen recently is on
directoire lines, combining glace tat
fetas with all-over lace, woven in
loose packet pattern. A finishing
touch is given by embroidered and Sc
quined chiffon. The loose fronts and
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-07-10
For Women in the Prime of Life.

In the effort to secure quaintness in
weaves, manufacturers have made
much of colors favorable to the wom-
an in the prime of life, or somewhat
on the other side of 1t. Changeable
silks, shading from violet or lavender
to 81 in peculiar mauve effects, all
the raj tones in glace taffetas, and
countless other weaves, suggesting a
thread of metal in the wool distract
the woman of moderate purse, who is
torn between the desire to possess
dainty garments and yet to maintain
her dignity in dressing.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-07-10

~ deceiving. Silk. Bingham, cham
bray or French calico may be its ma
terials, but soft headings join seams,
tucks and shirrings are done by hand,
and the inside of the costume is as
exquisitely finished as the outside.
The cottons which initiate the an
cient French designs, some of which
We're painted by hand. are sometimes
treated TO eyelet embroidery, the color
of the needlework matching the pat
tern. The morning frOcks are charm
ingly rural in effect, and the brim hats
which accompany them are no less
so, for wreaths of fruit and ribbon
streamers are favorite trimmings.
The Afternoon Rig.
When this striking rig is DOTTED, and
the afternoon occasion is to be a
smart one a plain organdy or painted
muslin may take its place Net laces
in rich creams and headings run with
black velvet are much used upon these
airy toilettes. which affect dainty frills
and elaborate sleeves cut to display
still more elaborate under ones.
Undersleeves have taken a pretty
strong hold, and few really dress-up
frocks are seen without some species
Of the cOquetry. 1t cannot be denied
that woman with undersleeves is
sweeter than the woman without them
Not since the hour of patch and
powder have shoes been gayer for
summer footgear includes all the col
ors of the rainbow. Usually, the tint
of the foot covering matches the dress,
and since this is one of the exactions
of fashion, the shoe people have
learned the trick Of dyeing them to
suit the costume.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-07-10
A Shit of Gray.

Shit of Gray.
This pattern, made up in gray eta
mine, had blouse in which the eta
mine was combined with glace silk and
embroidered chiffon, all of the same
tone. The etamine appeared only in a.
suggestion of bolero, the blouse proper
beng of tucked glace silk. The under
sleeves and vest of the chiffon showed
several shades of embroidery, with a
dash of silver. A toque of gray chif-
fon and lace straw, draped with white
lace clouding over blush roses, would
tempt bit of pink coloring into the
cheeks of a woman of fifty.
The wrap is the distinctive note in
the dowager's costume. and in this
matter the directoire styles please her
nightly. The embroidered vests.
showing a suggestion of gold or sill
YER, make the simplest of black taffetas
look smart, ana the long lace f1ounces
at the wrist soften hands in which
wrinkles are beginning to show and
blue veins to rise plainly.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-07-10

of shirring. but II she must indulge
her fancy in this direction, there is A
fan-model skirt which will give her
some leeway. Between each of the
seven cores, just below the hip. a
shirred piece is inset, starting at a pin
point width and widening gradually
until it reaches the knee, where II
is perhaps two inches and a half wild.
From this point the skirt flares ont
broadly, giving almost the effect Of A
flOunce. There are about ten or twelve
shirrings between the hip and the
knee, each finished with a fancy tail
ored stitch. No other trimming is
used on the skirt, and it is one of the
most graceful effects seen this sea-
son.
Idaho Springs siftings., 1904-02-06
Perfect Confidence. c.

Where there used to be feeling oi
uneaslness and worry in the household
when a child showed symptoms II
Group. there IL nov perfect cenfidenca
This is owing TO the uniform suco1
Of Chamberlain Cough Remedy In the
treatment uf that disease. Mrs. NJ. l..
Basford Of Poolesville. Nd. in speak-
iuR Of her experience In the use of tina,
remedy says: 4 have a world of con
fdence in Chamberiain's Cough Rene
dy for have used il with perfect sue
cess. My child Garland Is suhject to
severe attacks Of Group and il always
gives him prompt relief" For sale By
J. ] Sherwin.
Idaho Springs siftings., 1904-02-06

Senator r. VI. Patterson, no one being
Willing to undertake 80 mighty task.
There were no music classes in High
School. Monday and Tuesday owing r.
the illness oi the instructor Mr y up-rt.
Mr Ill, 10 student in Cicero ciass
translate: Fore dus Tel fiat in culture -
By chance the le+der bre&ti-d poisou
into his lunssj. Stud ui-"Fsrty dncks
fell fat in the gutter
The High Srhool basket bail team xas
defeated l. Georgetown Sat urday ever
ing by scure Of ~ to 7. The local tear
was com i,~ly .uistnpI ei in size and
weight ard were no match for their for
midable adverssries The features os d
good basse tall game were lacking o
this contest which Vas pronounced by
many Of lhose present as one of IN
roughesi they had ever witnessed
The basstt all game in Georgeioa Il
Saturday evening was witnessed iy quite
uuuber of idano people In the band
wagon whirh conveyed the team ther-
wss party Of nineteen boys and eiIlz
chaperon, 4 b. Mss Pendleion and Mr.
HILL All @ere cordially emit rtainsd hg
the Georgetown l'eople and a delight 81
tine wss the verdict OF the Idaho stu
dents on the entire exp-tii'i n.
Idaho Springs siftings., 1904-02-06
When You Have . Cold.

The first action when you have q
cold should be TO relieve the lungs
This is best accomplished by the free
use of Chamberlain Cough Remedy
This Remedy liquefies the tough mu
cons and causes its expulsion from the
air cells of the lungs. produces a free
expectoration. and opens the secre
lions A complete cure soon follows
This remedy will cure a severe cold in
less time than any other treatment and
n leaves the system in a natural and
healthy condition. II counteracts any
tendency toward pneumonia. For sale
by j. j. Sherwin.
Idaho Springs siftings., 1904-02-06
A Pleasure Trio

If you wish to take trip to warmer
climate snt lower altitude. the Colo
rado < Southern Ry. wiii give you low
rate for the round TRIP 'osny Of the prin-
pal rrsori point in tn South. South
eas, and along the Mexican Cuff Thtrr
are. too. some delightful combination rail
aud water trips. Write fpr details 20
T E Fisher, General Passenger Ageut.
Denver. Colo.
Idaho Springs siftings., 1904-02-06
High School Notes.

An interesting session of "Parliamen
,ary Practice" was held Monday after
noon when the society decided TO organ
ize itself into senate during the present
ses, of the u. S. senate, each OF the
students impersonating a senator. b.,
this method the history now ma sing IN
the L. 5. senate will be more hrnls fixed
IN the mind. There was considerable
wrangling as TO who would iepresen,