Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-09-03
VOGUE FOR2: VELVET
Rich Fabrics Arelthe Features
of the Fall Fashions.
NEW COATS AND WRAPS
CORDUROY is THE BEST Fol
HARD WEAR.
Point Lace the Ideal Garniture for
Velvet and is Combined With
Fur Ornaments.
Written for The Evening Star by Katherine Ander-

Nothing appalls the woman of moderate
means so completely as the prophecy that
velvet is to be fabric of the season. And
this is the prophecy that nails from fash
ions centers today.
In truth, the problem is a serious one for
the woman who can afford to buy only
one really smart frock, for velvet is hard
fabric to keep clean. 1t resents touch
of water, and, unless OF the best quality, it
quickly loses it's color and luster.
For many generations, in fact for two
centuries. it has been held that the Lyons
silk-back was the one dependable men,
Der of the velvet family, on the grounds
of suppleness and its permanent color.
From four to seven dollars a yard has
been paid by the over particular woman
for the material in her velvet gown and
Lyons velvet at it's widest is not more than
from TWENTY-FIVE to twenty-five inches. But
for the past few years there has appeared
upon the market German velvet nine
teen inches wide sold all over the coun-
try at the uniform price of So yard,
which on the surface, cannot be detected
from the Lyons velvet, retains it's luster
and possesses wearing qualities that rival
those of the French manufacture.
She Needs It All.
The experienced woman buys an entire
piece of velvet for her winter suit. This
measures twenty-five yards, and will allow
for a skirt with a slight train, wrap,
high-necked bodice and an extra evening
bodice Even when she does not expect to
make the evening waist or the wrap she
BUYS the full piece, with the understanding
that she is to return ana get cTeult lor
what is left over.
This arrangement is made by the better
class Of shopkeepers not entirely for the
protection Of the customer, but for their
own interests The various shades or
black which appear In velvet make match
ing a difficult problem, and If woman is
short a yard or so on her gown and fails
to match the piece when she comes back 10
the store she becomes dissatisfied Gus
toner.
On the other hand, the few yards which
she brings back, if the entire piece proves
too much, can be sold at the regular price
for dress trimming. All the good shop
keepers advise the steaming of velvet be-
fore it is made up, as this will insure it to
a certain extent from becoming water
stained.
The plain velvet weave is preferred for
general wear by women of good taste. We
lour is too heavy for a whole suit, though
it is much used for wraps. Corduroy Will
be popular for pedestrian suits and hard
wear, but 1t is not dressy material Panne
and chiffon velvet are more supple and
plable than the plain velvet, but they are
not as good for general wear. The panne
velvet is glossy, with a satin sheen; the
chiffon velvet has longer pile than the
panne. and looks as If it had been freshly
dipped in water. Velvet brocades, mirror
velvets, velvets ironed in imitation Of MORE
silk, metal and embroidered velvets are
shown in bewildering variety but they are
not for the woman of medium purse.
Novelties Come High.
Some of the importations of fancy velvets
come as high as $40 per yard but as quickly
az, tha1y
initiated at dollar or two a yard in the
cheapest of American factory fabrics. The
imported fancy velvets will play large
part in the sartorial scheme of rich women,
as they make the most effective dinner and
restaurant gowns Hunters green, navy
blue and rich brown will be used for vel
vet gowns by women of limited means but
in the long run black velvet is by all odds
the most satisfactory selection, as the wo-
man with single colored velvet gown is
naturally more conspicuous than she who
wears black with various combinations of
lace, net and so on.
In planning her one velvet gown the wo-
man of moderate means must consider the
circumstances under which she will wear it.
II she does not own a carriage and eX-
poets to appear on the street in this gown
she will have it made either in walking
length or with a train so slight that she
can carry 1t easily. In this case the gown
should be developed on tailored lines with
Louis coat into which she can insert a
fancy vest and lace half-sleeves or rufties
Have Short Train.
If it must serve as dinner as we'll as
calling dress the slight train is essential.
The extra bodice should be made simple
and there is no better finish than a bertha
of real lace. Cheap lace kills the effect of
a good velvet gown. An effective yet not
expensive bertha for a woman of mature
years to wear with velvet is of black Chan
my over white chiffon. Rose point and
irish point are, of course the ideal laces
ior perthas TO be worn with black velvet
put they are not within reach of every wo-
man OF discriminating taste.
one OF the peculiarities of velvet is the
Iact mat IN m, the hands of a good dress
maker II VIII make the stout woman look
thinner and the thin woman look stouter
Many women OF small stature are afraid of
VeIvet on the ground that it will make them
iooh oge[ul eSSeo. IN reality, If properly
HaAu4eo py the dressmaker. it will give
them a certain petite, pquant air which
appeals particularly to the masculine sex.
for women OF more generous dress al
Iowance, the velvet gown may be designed
more deliberately. The train may be as
long as the functions for which it will be
worn demand. There is nothing more
stately at the afternoon reception or the
dllher than the graceful, trained velvet
skirt.
Black Velvet and Lace.
Inc most eXtravagant of trimmings and
ehe oresslest of wraps will be used with a
pronounced train. A striking combination
on the reception or calling gown of black
velvet is broad band Of Irish point lace
edged with tiny fur heads or ornaments
or me tall woman the faNorite lace band
- from Twelve to fifteen inches wide. run
around the skirt just above the hem. Tiny
sapie ornaments two inches in diameter
t useu at the top and bottom of this lace
orliu . 30 close as to make them an extrav-
as 9n iteii IN the gowns composition.
,Desplte the decree of fashion in favor of
t ..'1, tohe-fabric costume, separate blouses
VIII pe worn with velvet skirts.
iHe wise woman will have a three-piece
v t;iS sult,sklrt, bodice and wrap-but she
WIN nave also several extra blouses devel-
opn,hi on lne ; and from fabrics which will
c9m CONF well with the velvet skirt. Span
siea pidcK nets. iridescent shades, spangled
Stiiloh' showing metallic paillettes or en-
pioioeIed IN silver or gold threads, lace run
VIII sola or silver thread-4-all these will be
a osteso either soldly or in combination with
cliiAoEs, nets, crepe de chine and the soft
est Oh silks These blouses will be worn
with elaborate girdIes.
New Dinner Jackets.
me long-front restaurant dinner jacket
mas many advocates among women who
make Il practice of dining in public places.