The Red Cloud chief., 1904-03-18
A GLIMPSE OF TOKYO
SCENES IN THE SCARED CAPITAL
or EASTERN JAPAN.
A widespread Medley Of Unpleas"nt
sights, Odors and Sounds-some of
the Inconvenience That Beset b
Foreigner In shoppina.

:"
sights, Odors and sounds-some of
the Inconvenience Tina Beset the
Foreigner In shopping.
Tokyo, the vast sprawling capital or
eastern japan, Il comparatively young
city, IL aged with the scars of fire. of
earthquake and of war. This great
| city. once of 1,0OO.OOO inhabitants.
spread over what is popularity cstimat-
ed as a hundred square miles. seems
| still to cover in the shadow of the for.
trcss of the great Iyryasu.
For the American tourist unprcparcd
for the real orient and knowing Japan
only through her art products AMI the
few pen pictures Of the artist rhapso-
dists who have embarrassed her with
their praises Tokyo is Il rare purgative.
Except for the stately and dignified
tombs of the shoguns and the fine oiii-
cial grounds and Buildings Of the CAPT
tai he finds his senses aSsaiind on every
side by unpleasant sights, odors and
sounds.
Approaching Tokyo by train from io-
kohama, he sees the green hillsldcs pla-
| tiIutu VIII tll' llbNN h'S'
Arrived in the city. he finds the poster
and billboard everywhere monstrous
and fragrant. Stagnant sewers lie along
the roadside, and foul odors arise from
the pavements. constantly wet down
by the hOuseholders. Porters and store
keepers with a rag Of Il b%reechciout or
n scant skirt jostle. shout and stare,
| anI paphnn1 a vvhnln family InnV hn
seen in a doorway ready for h tub,
from which you see the steam arising.
A street called the Ginga is the state
street Of Tokyo, and here in the even
ing you may find an intinity Of wares
spread out upon the walk. which IL one
of the few real sidewalks In Japan.
Most OF these wares. however, are a
vast inconsequentinl array of cheap
trifics, such as the entcrprising mana
ger Of an American five cent store"
, might gather together. There are, how
ever, n number of somewhat pretcn-
, tlous stores to be seen by the persist.
q ent shopper.
;, Shopping In Tokyo. however. Is at
tended by many Inconvenience. TO he
gin with, your rickshaw man knows no
English and nothing about the stores
and the names and numbers of streets
are known only to the map makers
Where n street has n name it Is likely
to belong only to the shady side and tC
I run around the block instead of contin'
I uing from the next corner. II. how
Q ever, you succeed In finding II store
a your troubles have just begun. Tht
n proprietor sits at the rear Of the estab
lishment. cross legged. before n small
desk. by virtue of being In his owl
store he has reached the summit o.
earthly desire and cares nothing abOu
you. Perhaps IL you wait some small
. clerk of n dozen years or less will com'
= to wait upon you and. seeing you ar
a foreigner. will charge you extra fo
the few words of English he can mas
ter.
II YOU are bold enough to leave you
ricksllaw and wander about on foot yo
will soon attract II curious crowd, tn
%clattcr of whose wooden geta upon ia
flags will well nigh dcafcn you. 1t is
good naturcd. well meaning GROVE
however. and will soon be scattered b
a policeman. II there are any clerk
going your way they will address 20
In the hope of learning n few words G
English or inviting you to their stores
There Is no hostility or insult. only q
riosity and good natured, childis
amusement.
Modesty Is an unknown quantity
Japan. as one soon learns. If your ricl
/. shaw mans two garments become dan
1u he is likely 10 change them before yo'
and fellow travellers in the ears al
sure to change their clothes witho,
:, Difference to place or surrounding
nc Men and women use the same tank
~, the same time in the public baths wit,
II out "A thought of improperly.
rs. The streets of n Japanese city are II
ID. of interesting sights and seem new
by twice the same. Every store ana eve
passcr 10y is a novelty that chains Il
~ attention for q moment, In a lar