The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-01-03

that have but recently got out OF date. for
much older sleeves are all the go. That is,
the drafts being made upon fashions Of
from fifty TO sixty years ago are nowhere
more noticeable in dresses of the present
than hey are in sleeves. All the models of
the indicated period are being modified or
adapted, and at times some Of them are
accurately reproduced. often with beauti-
fully quaint effect. This means large sleeves,
but those Of extreme size are barred by
most dressmakers. Even this rule is proved
now and then by handsome exceptions. All
fullness comes at the elbow. Its arrange
ment may be according TO the wearer's
taste, though series OF puffs OF various
forms seem to be the very latest wrinkle.
Despite this stylish form, the standing of
sleeves that include lace or diaphanOus
rufies and sizeable cuffs is good, and they
are many on dressy gowns.
Old fashions that are making a big inn
preston on current styles are those of some
seventy years back that bring about ire
m~endously full skirts and sIoping Shout
ders- Many young women just entering So
ciety copy these old dresses faithfully, and
the quaint simplicity of the result is well
suited to the debutante. For older women
the d~ressmakers modify and adapt. and
once such processes are begun the original
model or models, for often several old de-
signs are blended in one new gown, hardly
can be recognized in the completed costume.
But shoulder slope is attained in so many
pretty ways that is apparent in most new
dresses. and that without any suggestion
of uniformity. Skirts are tremendously full
about the feet. and every attention is given
TO arranging fullness about the hips. Much
careful contriving is expended in this point.
but not always To the complete satisfaction
of the wearers. The average figure is not
suited to adding bulk at the hips; that is one
thing. Another is that women don't forget
that they have just passed through a period
In which tightly-encased hips were the rule.
They liked these fashions. most OF them,
and do not take kindly to the newer styles,
or, having taken them up, feel that they
have made distinct sacrifice in order TO be
stylish. And no matter how much a woman
may want to be stylish, you may depend
that she would rather do IL without feeling
that in some other style she would show to
better advantage.
These soft, full skirts are often trimmed
very freely, but the place for trimming is
toward the bottom. Here may be no end of
Ii. Horizontal bands are at times distributed
all along the skirt from hem to belt, but
much more often the highest is at about the
knees, though there may be hip yoke effect
of considerable depth. While the hip yoke is
used in many dresses, il is more abundant
ON skirts that have comparatively little
other trimming. You see. while skirts may
be embellished very freely in the lower pOr-
lions, IL is more stylish to avoid completely
the appearance OF having plastered on all
possible on the entire skirt. The skirts of
the first three of tO-day's pictured models
are current types, each quite unlike the
other. and each seen in almost countless
notifications. In the small picture the trim
ming was brown. very open lace insertion,
and was on lOuisins silk of a shade lighter.
The novel arrangement of the silk in the
back of this bodice was repeated in its front.
At the left. in the next picture, is a brown
camels-hair. the skirt untrimmed but for
shirring, the bodice simply shirred at the
top into the neck band. One of the new fur
neck pieces that are made for slope is shown
with this simple dress. Beside il is a skirt
whose lace foot ruffie was headed by rich
seen. With this gown is shown a short wrap
menterie for trimmings.
The loose, short bolero that hung from so
many shoulders but a little while ago has
given way TO a sort that fits accurately in
the back. The front may be tight, also. or
half fitted, as suits the wearer, but the
back is a matter for nice treatment with
careful dressmakers, and certainly the
STANDING of the jacket depends more upon
the appearance here than upon anything
else. 1t is i'm the sleeves of such Jackets
that the limit of permissible fullness often
is seen. Girdles are widening. and there is a
noticeable tendency to give to them a deep
er point at the bottom in front. This point
may be round or sharp, though the latter is
the more favored. With the advance of the
girdle, too. come many girdle effects.