New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1904-07-25
A VISIT TO TIBET.
Experience Hunting for Big Game
IN LOftg altitude.


Early in 1868. when young suhaltern in the
Bengal army, writes Captain a. H. Baldwin IN
Chambers Journal invalded from Cen
tral India to Nynee Tai. one Of the most beauu1ul
OF our hill stations. I arrived weak and III at TINS
sanstorium; but the pure air and bracing Climate Oh
these glorious mountains brought new life
into me. I cared little for the gayety and pleas
ures of Nynee Tai. but longed to get away with
rifle and gun into the wlds My ambition had been
fired by sporting work recently written by an
officer in the Bengal Civil Service. who had crossed
the snowy range into Tibet. and there shot the
bunchour. wild yak. the Owls ammon. or wild
sheep. and other big game. The spirit or the
chase strong in me, and longed TO 90 IKE
wise and at once began making my preparations
for journey due north. 1 Joined forces with an
officer in a cavalry regiment, who had obtained
long leave OF absence like myself. and we had
agreed TO travel and shoot together. No time was
to be lost for making a start. 1t OF the ut
most Importance to enter Tibet so soon as ever the
melting of the the higher ranges would
permit Of passage through the passes.
We obtained a good map of the district through
which we proposed journeying. and, having most
carefully studied the different through Brit
ish territory, determined on making for pass
through the snowy range called the Nett. The
height Of this pass than sixteen thousand
feet considerably higher than the Hottest peak in
Europe From the information able to
obtain, II appeared that this particular pass pre-
scented fewer difficulties than the Neillum Choir
Hot or other narrow clefts through the upper
thirty miles to Almorah, a military station above
Nynee Tai. where GoorEha regiment
TONED. Here We bought two small tents of light
weight for ourselves. and third made out of
coarse blankets for the two servants we proposed
taking with us. We also purchased number Of
baskets covered with leather. called kiltas to be
each filled with supplies to a weight of forty
pounds, a load easily carried by a native his
shoulders Camp beds. small table for each tent
ioolng chairs, supplies Of timed soups, bacon
sugar and other necessaries Of a like kind had 10
Dc provided Gunpowder and lead were other most
important considerations. Those were the days Of
muzzle leaders, 1t important that kta
baskets should weigh light a possible, and
finally decided that two hundred rounds for our
rlhes and the same quantity for shotguns must
suhlce though it seemed little enough. l may
mere mention, however, that the above proved more
than we required; for often. In spite of great toll
and eXertion, We did not fire dozen rifle shots in
a week.
Having carefully thought over everything, and
obtained advice from some OF the old residents OF
Almorah what 10 take with us and what to leave
behind. We finally obtained a government servant
called chuprassie. furnished with a perwanna or
order TO the head men Of villages to supply us
with carriers Early one morning made a
start descending from Almorah into a deep, wind
ing valley, following the upward course of a small
river and marching on an average ten miles day.
Later we crossed a range Of hills to a well
known camping ground named Rammee and
thence by ar up-aud-down march to a village called
ASppObStIL we lOunQ the heat OF the low valley
excessive; but as We gradually assembled higher
and higher the beauty Of the wild scenery becom-
Ing more and more attractive as we proceeded
with the magnificent snow mountains lovely be-
yond description. a background our longing 10
view the land beyond increased
We were fortunate to meet the DEPUTY Commits
sioner of the province encamped at Tappobeen
lie was we'll known sportsman who had several
'lihes visited Tibet He asked to dine with him
on the evening Of arrival and we found our
"a TaN 10
dinner provided the like Of which we had not en-
Joytd Tor many a day. our host entertained us
win shlkar stories. how he had hunted and sbo,
lhe Wild yak and owls ammon of Tibet Not only
ms he advised us TO the best route we should
take after crossing the snowy range: and what was
or greater Importance. he furnished US with rho
name and address OF well known guide and sbi-
Kafee' who would pilot 10 the best shooting
ground. Moreover this same guide and leader n
hhoua named Dhun Singh. knew the Tibetans and
ihelr language, and with our knowledge OF Hin
dostanee which he also understood would act ns
interpreter 10 our expedition. We were 10 INQUIRE
TOT phuh singh at village called Bompa. two
marches on the British side Of the Nett Pass
Having wished kind host farewell the FOL
lowing morning We made fresh start following
| the valley of the river Dhovlua in places a mar
roeering the hills on either side and roaring tor
rent Dy.g" Inc bridges over this mountain tor
strous character. composed OF two or three long
pine trees wet and slippery and often coa aIS
with ice. reaching from bank TO bank win eIneT
pieces OF plank fastened across give a precar
| bridges were forty hfty feet above the bed OF
enough 70 try the nerves and head Of any man
attempting the passage across | may here men
uoit that when Journeyng through these Narrow
valleys, with great snowdrifts above the ToadHayS
II IS OF great importance TO make your ma rcb
daylight as possible for when once tbs iS soon ater
me sun begins to affect tho great masses OF snov
often seen a great mass of snow suddenly give
Wy, ana with a roar like thunder come gliding
rocks and hundreds Of spinning stones gaining
tSleter yyeIoety each moment. and bounding with
HIes!slble force down the steep sides mi tney
THfhtuay found resting place in the bed of tho
But to return 10 voyage OF discovery. nv
STEADY marches we pushed on. till we finally
Journey the Neti pass Here We If ar8e day 20
our chagrIn, that none OF the passes were
sons the snow melts sufficiently by the middle of
S Iliaf iiine OF year aIude toto admit
However, We had much To think and 10 en-
bioy our time before proceeding further. We were
mehded 70 US by the Deputy Commissioner. at
into Tibet and To- act rs guide intrpretar yan p5
shlkaree OF the expedition. Ue brought with him
er and general servant vs., were relieved 10 fnd
s1II tIf TWO men readily .il JOB with our wishes
Ihtln IN addition to moderate wages. They also
dan 1 visited ih,l M supplies beasts of bur
De obtained from their own vill1g, Of Bompa.
other useful suggestions OF the kind The next
thhs was TO discharSe and pay up the government
natives who had with much toll carried our world
~ goods up those steep. rugged valleys.
- Dhun Singh and his young cOmrade were both
fine looking. stalwart If good manners and
address, and evidently accustomed to English
Sp0ftSnen. I3oth men We're Rh0tias. people
hahiting certain villages below ,he snow passes
ard under the English government. may mention
that these Bhotias should not be COMPOUNDED with
me I}hGtanese or inhabitants OF Bhutan proper-a
i% IN mo WEI f 1 from hivt9S served against
the humans or inhabitants of Tibet, In appear