New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1904-12-20

Paris December 3.
Bold indeed is the fashion writer. who has
the temerity say this that such and such
a thing is longer worn? For instance.
authority says that triple skirts have had their
day, but a Rue de la Pax couturer presents
the latest expression Of his ideas skirts
in three shaped founces Another ventures
state that smoOth-faced cloths quite out of
favor, when 10. there is a sudden slump in the
demand for fancy woods. and cloth costumes are
the front. Dressmakers who are experienced
and willy the last to say that such thing is
not worn. although they are most expansive as to
what is worn.
Skirts are very large" one is apt to remark
when looking models. They very large
madame: much stuff Is necessary. Our stuffs are
especially manufactured in double width" is the
reply.
But they little less large than last
winter
critical look is apt to precede a reply
to this question which nevertheless comes
promptly. Certainly, madame. they are less large
than the skirts made last season. but we I'M
derstand that the large skirt has made a great
success in America"
The inference that the extremely large skirt IS
fashionable in America while It is on the wane in
France is annoying, especially If one is on the
point of ordering one OF extravaganza size.
There is another way in which the fashion writer
sometimes gains information from the great
authorities.
My congratulations monsieur. Your models are
exquisite and quite novel They will have great
success, especially with Americans. But tell me.
the skirts appear very large"
Very large he repeats. like automaton.
Regard how they are large" and with a wave
of his hand the long wasted model revolves and
spreads her tail feathers.
But" the fashion writer craftily suggests.
your skirts large, advanced. last win
ter that these seem to really little smaller"
The authority IS apt his hands in dep
recatng manner. sigh and remark. You see.
madame all have I show you
That is your tailored suits show skirts smaller
than those Of last season and certainly your gowns
for the afternoon evening larger"
THAT is So really, that is quite So"
The fashion writer, encouraged remarks But. |
are they not all little smaller. just a trine?'
Sure" replies the authority for his English is
not always refined his French. They are
smaller
And are they not 10 grow even smaller?' de- /
mands his pitiless questioner.
Il think so. you think mails nous verrons." |
IS the tactful answer.
And on the whole what more one say. nous |
verrons" New fashions a long time in the |
air, but who say Just when they are going TO |
descend. Who would have dared TO state six |
months ago that sleeves were to change rad /
ically in shape that they could be literally turned
upside down Certainly not the dressmakers for /
dressmakers who love their trade would hardly |
recommend a transformation so easy and ecOnomi- /
cal. And In regard to skirts It is possible that
there is going 10 be much the same kind Of a
lump but even the best authorities in Paris do not
wish to be quoted saying But at least. the |
fashion Of wide skirt is arrested. II 1t is not
on the wRne.
Tailored suits much moro used than was |
the case last winter aud that means the sup |
preston Of the long drop skirt, absolutely |
impossible TO LIT. Even in the case OF costumes |
made with the long. severe habit coat many dress
makers advise the drop skirt and make It with a |
stinened hem to hold out the heavy. although |
comparatively scant. upper skirt; but, as one au-
thority admits. there is chance above and beyond
the VIII OF the dressmakers. Street costumes are |
made to be worn the street. and a woman is !
nothing but an ungraceful bunch OF huddled-up !
folds II she tries to walk in a long coat long
skirt and long drop skirt A close shoulder line |
means a close hip line. which means less fulness
IN the skirt no matter how much It may fare at /
the hem.
If the skirt may be allowed to drag. there. IS |
nothing more graceful than some OF the models |
shown now. tho skirts falling in loose folds with
the habit coat IN It's latest expression. boero |
length in front with q long back reaching with
In a few inches OF the hem OF the skirt. This |
no be the latest idea 81 tine rt coat
skirt shaped bur hanging In freed side pIeats. The
a trihe above the waist line 10 show the bottom
OF white plush vest. The coat tails are wide and
are an enaggeTated coat sleeve set In 70 rise and
swell out a little at the shoulders and TO fall into
rufies.
The habit coat and skirt in combinations of vel
vet and cloth ia design chosen for many elab-
crate visiting costumes. Ono II bronze brown has
the cloth skirt trimmed with three folds or velvet
headed with lines OF sable. The velvet habit has q
bolero front ornamented with punches OF small
fur tails. and there is a draped cloth watstcoat,
trimmed with handsome gold buttons. The sleeves
are the fashionable three-quarter length, falling
into narlng open Guns lined with lace RULES.
Redfern Is Introducing velvet princess. gowns
not severely htted. but shirred blouse trtne
at the waist and trimmed with vest and panel OF
lace embroidery humber OF places are making
velvet coats tnat blouse In. the back, but not in
front, while other authorities advocate the severe
blouse effect has Disappeared although the ten |
dency IS toward fitted lines
pretty idea in velvet or cloth costrinne IL m. [
boero, which Is cut 10 cover the waist
Tine and 10 Sross "a front The sleeves are ons and