Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-02
THE 0uEST''':::OF BEAUTY
Secrets Of the Figure and
Dress Helps.
TO HIDE DEF ECTS
CIRCULAR SKIRT THINKING RE-
DUCEs HEIGHT.
How to Remedy an Abnormal
Waist Of Any Sort
Pads Injurious.
20 HIDE ECTs

~
Pads Injurious.
Written for the Evening Star by Katherine Morton.
There is certain actress who never APP
pears before the public without wearing
bow rosette or some sort of ornament
upon the left shoulder AS she often wears
four or five gowns in a play, and at times
is subject to frequent changes of bill, this
means that her brain is racked to think up
enough move! devices for those left shoulder
decorations.
one day she invited me to go through her
wardrobe. Most of her gowns bear the
Partisan stamp. so this was treat
An ivory broadcloth trimmed with mink
showed tiny animals head peering
through glass eyes on one shoulder. SIM
pie and dainty little rose-bespattered or
CANDY was adorned with wreath of arti-
ncial roses which were gathered into
large bouquet on that shoulder. wonder
full bail gown of lace was colorless save for
5eweled butterfly in emerald and ruby
which perched on that shoulder. In not one
of the gowns was her rule broken.
Why on earth do you do it?' I asked
her. Aren't you ever going to have gown
made alike on both sides?"
Dear me-" she answered I'D be glad
enough to have my gowns alike on both
sides If Providence had only fashioned me
that way. too. vas turned out in bad
mold somehow. My shoulders have never
been even-in fact. they are so conspicuous
~ uneven that they counted against me in
getting my first engagement. Managers
SAID that my face was all right and that
was good dresser as far as l could be but
as one truthful brute expressed it, / was
warped That cut in mighty Deep but 1t
made me go home and look my cheval glass
IN the face and demand of it the truth
mere was no getting around II; one of my
shoulders was much higher than the other
ana this fact took all the smartness from
my severely tailored gown in which 1 had
invested all my savings for the sake of
making hit on the Rialto.
She Learned the Lesson.
learned my lesson then and there.
That low shoulder must be built up before
could appear to- have the good figure
which managers demanded To that very
tailor suit l added an odd leather trim
ming. my own invention, which fastened
with a stunning gill; buckle and leather
loop on my errfhg shoulder I got an en-
gagement the next day, and 1 have never
since appeared on the stage or the street
except In one-sided gown 1 believe, on
the whole. my little deformity has been
mascot to me; for my gowns have had
To be sure. there are ways of bringing a
bad shoulder into shape by physical train
ing, and this Is far better than to endure
casionally reasons why nothing can be done
to remedy natures defects and in such
cases see no harm In mild deceit, for
g our old circus friend Barnum, used to
say, the public wants to be fooled" Sure
ly the public il far better pleased with a
form or face that appears to be pretty than
with one that is frankly faulty. So you
may as well use what ingenuity you have
/ 4 "a fa nx,nf
working at the same time to overcome it,
In the matter of height, bear in mind
always the general law: Vertical lines in
crease, horizontal lines decrease height. The
trimming of your skirt means everything to
YOU.
Do Not stoop.
If ycu are afflicted with the figure of
giraffe, do not try to mitigate your height
by STOPPING. That makes you appear merely
ungainly and no shorter. Take a lesson
from the beast himself. He is not afraid to
unkink every inch with which he is en-
dowed. Hold yourself erect and see to 1t
that the bands of trimming on your skirt
run around. Put on in this way they will
"cut the length" as tailors express It, The
fashion of such bands will change from
season to season. but they are seldom BAN
! ished entirely. Sometimes they will be OF
sometimes of braid. Ruf1es are better than
any of these. For the same reason that
ruff1es are impossible to the short plump
woman, in that they render her "tubby."
they godsend to you Of length and
sitmness.
woman who wants to grow tall must
forswear every one Of these roundabout eff
fects. Furthermore. she must cultivate
! the acquaintance of all trimmings that run
up and down For her there are the seam
strappings and pipings. Remember that
the effect of any skirt trimming, whether
vertical or horizontal. is emphasized by
| 4NIor Az, Ia
strong contrasts are less artistic than the
soft harmonies OF blending tones, so you
| must decide for yourself which sacrifice
you will make.
What May Be Done.
| BY the same laws thu length Of waist
and arm may be affected. If you are short
WASTED, run as fast as you can from all
| trimmings that run across the waist. Bands
of inserting worn across the bust are peril
Gus. Use the trimmings that run vertically
from collar to belt. or " effects. If your
arms are short and plump, avoid very full
sleeves and wear trimmings put on length
WISE The thin-armed woman is the only
one who dares risk the righteousness of
ruffies and puffs that the modern sleeve
revels in.
woman who is all straight lines from
| top to toe may resort to many devices be-
sides padding to gain curves. Take the
Your tailor will want to insert stuffy
little pad of something under the corset
Don't let him do 1t. A pad stuffed with
! cotton or wool or hair Is heating, uncom-
Portable and unhealthful. If you must be
padded, if you cannot wait until physical
culture has rounded out your hips to SYM
| metrical proporfions.cthen use spring wire
or hollow pad. GAs
For my part Isdisltke all pads. and do
not believe thatI therey are any which the
keen observer Ieannnt distinguish from
genuine curves. eTherebis certain stiffness
about the .buiIt'b woman that the other
| never has. Flexibilityds lacking. Softness,
suppleness betha1 feminine beauties, are
wanting For that peason, If any fraud
must be perpetrated, II prefer to depend
upon petticoats that ARE gathered about the
hips 1 have seetf false hips which actually
seemed to move separately when their wear
err walked Therescan be no such sorry re-
suits from wearing full gathered petticoats..
Padding is Unhealthy.
Hip pads are Anfiedithy, but infinitely
more so are bust pads, Those that are not
hollow actually. .hindeE the growth of the
breast. and maysdnjures 1t seriously. for it
is very delicate part of the body. Hollow
pads made of aoveyy' light material are
harmless enough Best of all is the strip of