The San Francisco call., 1904-03-13

duced upon a spring gown Of golden
brown crepe de chine. one of the neat
est gowns Of the season
The skirt. which was one Of the
very full new skirts rather close in
froat but fuIt u9on the sides and in
the back, was trimmed with golden
brown ribbon which was put on the
side in Greek key design The waist
had a conventional pattern outlined In
ribbon.
Wonderful New Embroideries-
Another cloth gown was trimmed
with lovers knots in ribbon applied TO
the waist and skirt. the one upon the
skirt being very large and placed at
the side of the skirt. The CUTS and
the knot design and the stock showed
a knot with trailing ends
The fancy stitchings have by no
means lost their vogue and the pretty
and every adaptable thorn stitch IS
used to outline other trimmings
Suits of velvet are stitched with cat
stitch and the canvas suitings are trim
med with bands OF cross stitch in Bo-
hemian, Armenian and Roumanian
embroidery. These embroideries diff
tell which is which.
The shaded embroidery silks are
coming in again. and this makes the
pattern bear an opalescent hue. The
colors blend one into another. keep
ing all their gloss and producing
the most exquisite effects. This sort
of embroidery is particularly easy to
do and it offers a nice field for the
woman who has time and a gown
upon her hands. She can change the
suit from a very plain one into some
thing that is highly favored by fash
ton.
The severely plain tailored gown IS
very hard to fnd- Instead Of the plain
severity of the tailored dress one sees
the gown with its shoulder capes, three
deeD. and it's stole fronts. One sees the
tailored dress, with its stitched and
strapped hips. and its very full fiOunce.
Ard there is the English tailored gown,
with its elaborate vest of Oriental finish
and design and its cuffs, elbow deep,
with embroidery and lace and trimmed
with a design upon the shoulder.
The tailored costumes are robbed OF
their simplicity and nothing remains
Of the severity of finish except the
stitchery. the neat seams. the strap
pings and the air of finish which char
acterizes the whole.
\ London tailor is making his new
tailored skirts very round and very
full. This. somehow, gives the crino-
lined effect, or il would do so were il
not very carefully managed.
Velvet for Summertime.
The very round. very full skirts must
be cut long: they must be cut slightly
trained in the back and little longer
than the ground on the front and the
sides The full skirt must also be ar
ranged as to it's folds. so that there is
a sweeping appearance with the lines
all extending down from the belt, while
around the foot there Is a full flounce
to set of and finish the skirt
Velvet. that queen of the winter.
now rules the fashions in their spring
time. thin velvet suit can be rec
commended as a general utility gown.
for it makes a handsome carriage or
promenade dress: it is very fine for
"a visiting gown; il is quite ceremoni-
Gus enough for receptions. And. for
a gown to have in the wardrobe. IL
can be highly recommended to every
woman who desires to be sure OF one
nice dress all the season. Moreover.
there is this about velvet that il never
goes out of style and the velvet gown
of this year can be made over into a
velvet shirt waist and separate skirt
next year, while in the seasons that
follow il can be converted into an
Eton or a bolero or into trimmings
galore.
Velveteen has come into high vogue
lately. No one supposed that 1t would
ever be so popular for the making OF
nice gowns 1t was once worn sur
reptitiously an imitation velvet, but
it now comes out frankly as velveteen-
1t is fine and soft, comes in many
shades and is quite desirable for gen
eral occasions. In moleskin color.
trimmed with taffeta, it is charming
for spring wear.
The new hats are remarkable for their
becoming features. They are not too
severe; they do not set too far back on
the head; they are not too nat and they
are not too tilted. Taking one feature
with another. the hat of spring will be
the most becoming hat that has been
seen for many year
There are buttons Of silver. very bril-
liant, and there are buttons of Jet. all
crown Of the hat
IL IS not too early to look ahead at
spring fabrics, for the counters are
: filled with sprigged goods. One of the
lovellest shows thin black ground,
upon which sprays of roses are care
tcssiy thrown This should be made
up with pink tafreta. But the sum
mer time is quite a way or and mean
while the woman with a little leisure
can get out to the shops and see for
herself the glories which the mer-