The San Francisco call., 1904-06-06
TraveI III Uganda.
Special Correspondence.


GARDEN, LONDON, May "a. - The
picture Of Uganda as new field for
the blase tourist, drawn by the secre-
tsry Of the West Africa Protectorate
on his arrival here the other day, was
enticing enough. Il seems that this
picturesque region now can be reached
easily from the coast by means Of the
new railway which has been building
for so long, a beggarly Sl25 paying Tor
the journey OF 500 miles that ten years
ago would have cost more than twenty
times that much. But in his descrip-
tion OF the manifold attractions Of this
route the official wisely omitted to
mention certain exciting accompani-
ments Of railway travelling in Uganda
OF which il may. however. be well to
say a word.
The railway passes through a region
teeming with wild beasts - a colossal
natural zoo without bars or cages.
Among the animals elephants are still
numerous and they don't take kindly
10 the invasion Of their primeval jun
giles by steam monsters and steel
tracks. Occasionally a troop Of them
makes a descent on a wayside station.
When the shriu trumpetings which her
aid their approach are heard the sta
ton agent betakes himself 10 the near
est tree and the attendants and any
stop-over tourists who may chance to
e-rr l.
than one occasion. il is said, tele-
graph operator. when hard pressed. has
been known 10 take refuge in the wa
ter tank. With the field TO themselves
the elephants clean out the station
much more effectually than a gang OF
Western bandits would do il, eating all
refreshments. smashing furniture,
making matchwood Of the ticket Office
and scattering the bits Of pasteboard
TO the four winds Of heaven. Jumbo
is decidedly a persona non grata with
the railroad officials. as the only way
10 collect damages against him is 10
take il out Of his hide and levy on his
ivory
The natives. though not especially
well disposed. have not yet tried 70
hold up a train. They leave that game
10 the leather armOr-plated rhinocer-
os and the thick hided hippopotamus
which sometimes wander on the track
and refuse TO bulge when the IocOmo-
tive comes in sight. That sort Of en-
counter generally ends in the intruder
getting shot and a long halt follows
while the perspiring train hands shift
the carcass off the track and the pas
getting a deal more than their moneys
worth. II is a joyful time for the anna
teur photographer, who thus obtains
indisputable evidence Of his courage
and prowess TO be displayed to an ad-
miring circle Of friends when he re-
turns home.
Uganda is a favorite stamping
ground Of lions, many of which have
grown quite accustomed TO the whistle
Of the locomotive and the roar Of the
trains and no longer fee from them.
More than Cne snap shot has been
obtained from a carriage window Of
2 lion devouring a zebra or antelope.
A hungry lion on the prowl with a
partially for human meat is a dan
gerous customer TO encounter and the
track walkers on the Uganda Railway
always 20 armed and usually in cou-
pies 70 be prepared for such an emer-
gency. Some narrowing stories are
told Of the greWsome deeds Of the king
OF beasts along the route Of the rail-
way. once two men were walking on
the track, one close at the heels of the
other. when a lion sprang upon them
from the brush. The foremost man
ducked and escaped with a few
scratches. but his companion was
knocked over. carried off into the high
grass and devoured- A railway official
was sleeping one night in side track
ed car. A lion entered the compart-
ment and with as much ease as a cat
would carry a mouse bore him off to
the jungle and there made an end Of
him. A few nights later the same
beast revisited the station in which
several Of the railway hands were
sleeping and jumping on the roof of
the little structure. tried to get at them
by tearing off the corrugated iron
sheeting. Baffled in this he crouched
for the rest Of the night by the station
door venting his fury on the signal
flags. which he tore TO shreds. Still
more audacious was the lion which
boarded a construction train in which
several workmen were sleeping. Their
cries OF terror brought assistance. and
Leo. disdaining to fee, fell riddled
with bullets on the platform of one of
the cars
So numerous are the animals that
none make a trip over the railway
without seeing many Of them Huge
herds OF zebras are frequently en-
countered browsing on either side OF
the track; the shrill scream Of the
steam whistle often sends a score or
more Of giraffes numbering over the
plains, while ostriches sometimes dis
play their speed on the approach of
the train and innumerable gazeIles
take to flight.
When the road was being built the
natives gave lot OF trouble and fights
were frequent before they learned to
leave the white man and his work
alone. Now their presence can be re-
gsroed as a picturesque addition to
the varied attractions of the trip. They
don't dress for company folks any