davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-09-17

Gladly to ones stature, but may accomplish
much in the way of developing the figure.
This means, maybe. long time spent in
out at last, with the odds on a general
benefit to the entire system. As a revolt
from the extravagances OF the fashions Of
the past year we are returning to the So
cailed republican simplicity of the direc-
toire styles, which will prevail for street
costumes this winter and in modified
touches will be seen on evening and the
more elaborate toilets. The chief charac-
terfstics OF dress In the French revolution
airy period which we are copying now are
exhibited In collar capes. revers, sashes,
waistcoats and turned-back deep cuffs The
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-09-17
ABOUT WOMEN'S HATS
The Use of Wells, Ribbons,
Flowers and Feathers.
WIN TER MILLINERY
NO IMPORTANT INNOVATIONS
NOTED IN SHAPES.
Curious Manifestation in Colors Fa-
vored in Partisan Effects-Chenille
Popular for Winter Headwear.

Paris Correspondence Millinery Trade Review.
The last month has certainly added to the
list of shapes, but 1t has not brought to
notice any important innovation on the
lines then laid down. So far as broad
brimmed hats are concernmed the varia-
tons to be noted have mostly to do with
the height of the crown. Some few firms
have apparently wished to signaIize them
selves by adopting abnormally high crowns
that is to say, crowns measuring as much
as six inches, whereas the average do not
exceed four or four and a half inches.
Others, on the contrary. are resisting
somewhat the tendency to elevate this
portion Of the hat beyond what may be con-
sidered the medium. 1. e.. three inches.
AS rule. the novelties belong to class
of hats that are designated as "petits
chapeaux' by Paris milliners, but which
are really often by no means small. Every
thing is comparative, and the immense
widths to which the brims of the picture
hats attain necessitates a new standard
of size being adopted.
Many and various ways of turning up or
dispensing with portion OF the brim at
the back are resorted to, one of the advan-
tages of such hats apparently being to
show off the complicated and rather low
chignon which the regular broad brimmed
hat hides from view.
Some of the hats have a horseshoe shap-
ed piece cut out of the back of the brim.
which is pressed down to the hair at
either side of this opening. and for the rest
rolled or turned UP In 'front.' or else al
lowed to remain fiat, according to the
fancy. This arrangement Is often COM
bined with crown having decided slant
forward but which Is, nevertheless made
to assume a more or less vertical position
by reason of the fitting of the whole shape
off the face
There are notifications of the directoire
hat that some milllners are introductng
among their new models, but rendered on
a small scale. both as to height of crown
and width of brim. In what milliners are
pleased to term small" hats, the crown
seldom exceeds the medium height. and
Is usually rather broad.
Hats Concealed by Wells.
1t not infrequently happens that a hat
| has its shape concealed by yelling Of ma
| terial. For instance. here is a black velvet
| hat. the bridge Of which Ia pancake form
ruff1ed narrowly around the edges For
trimming. this hat has merely big sheaf
Of creamy aigrette. Just tipped with black
Another. built up Of thick. bright Havana
brown chenille, interviewer closely, is COW
cred outside entirely with piece of dark
| old gold colored armure silk, arranged In a
| swirl of careless folds, over O weIl-deffned
| crown. The edges OF this piece OF silk are
sewn just within the borders Of the brim
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-09-17
How to Fit a Sleeve.

The long shoulders of the moment some
times give a lot Of trouble to the amateur
dressmsker. The correct way to At them
is to put the underpart in first. Tack the
full portion of the sleeves into small plaits
and make them perfectly fit the size of the
armhole. zoo
The effect is prettier IL the plaits are
ioosened after the bolero is fitted. but IL
desired they can be left stitched for few
inches from the armheie There are many
devices for obtaining the long shoulder
effect without actually cutting the long
seam, which is so difficult. For example.
embroidery and lace can be arranged SO as
top Of the arm, and this win be found very
effective.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-09-17
Demands New Shape.

What present we have to make the
best of is the change in the feminine figure
that courtureres insist is made necessary
by the demands of the new styles We are
asked TO ''wrastle" through the agonies of
smaller waist measurements: indeed. our
comfortable proportions at this point of
circular beauty must be, according to the
latest dictates, at least three inches less
than we have been enjoying for long
breathing period. The hips must be we'll
developed. and If nature has not been kind
in this respect outside assistance Is re-
quired by way of skillful padding of the
skirt at the hip line. Never resort to any
of the building up wire processes that man
has devised for this purpose. which never
for a moment deceive even the most credu-
Ious The bust is higher and the shoulders
are square and broad to the point of ex-
aggeration. and about the new figure there
is a general air of soldier on parade"
A dainty little mite of a woman asked me
in pathetic tones after listening to these
rules and regulations, How am I ever
going to attain these magnificent proper
tons?"
It Must Be Done.
81 haven't the slightest idea how you are
going to do ii, my dear" l replied. but
that you will do so Is foregone conclu-
sion. for all things have always come to
her who determines to be smart, and
am never certain what happens to the wo-
man who flies in the face of the laws of
la mode"
Deep breathing, all round physical cul-
ture and the right diet will not add appre-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-09-17
Hints for Ironing.

Table salt in the starch win help IN tho
ironing. A little borax in the last rinsing
water win make handkerchiefs eas.e. TO
iron and look better when done.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-09-17

No color Is used now on the dinner tahla
of fashion, japanese needlework IL pretty
for breakfast or luncheon.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-09-17

Correspondence
PARIS, September 3. 1904.
The sun which for the past month or SO
has been shining for strangers on bouie-
wards Is again casting its rays upon the
vanguard of returning Parisfans.
The weather lately has been unusually
warm and trying, and the hot evenings find
the Cafe Madrid at Armenonville, a pretty
suburb of Paris crowded by the gay world.
which meets under the leafy boughs to
dine.
The women at these al fresco entertain
ments dress perhaps too much for good
taste. though some very chic novelties are
seen at these demisaison restaurant din
ners which have a smartness all their
own. Dainty toilets of mousselne de sole
and fine lace worn with hats adorned lux
urlantly with long ostrich plumes find
greatest favor among the elegant visitors
at the cafe. These frocks are more suited,
however for indoor restaurant wear in
the height of the season. Amid the hum OF
gossip and clever nothings, tossed lightly
to and fro among the diners, one gets
= little snatches of burning import such as
"A perfect love of a directoire gown M.
Worth is creating for me to wear at the
fall races" and Il have the sturningest
coat Paquin designed especially for mel!
and the like So you see that even during
the morte saiSon there is spirit of sar-
torial rivalry which fiourishes before the
dress campaign opens in earnest. But
when has this feud of rival chiffons ever
ceased?
Rumors OF all sorts of delightful surprises
In the world of clothes are in the air, and
undoubtedly many of them will be realiz-
ed, but the smartest coming winter modes
are subject to few rules. These few rules,
though. are arbitrary and must be carried
out to the letter if a costume Is to be eff
fective and have the proper cachet. And.
when one comes to think of 1t. there
no laws more imperative than sartorial
laws.
Stevenson probab bly, had these in mind
when he wrote of the world at large that
it was
just place TO wrnstle through,
As job confessed OF.
And aye the best that can do
Perth Amboy evening news., 1904-02-02
CONDENSED DISPATCHES.

The Korean minister at Picking has
been recalled.
January was the second coolest
month known for many years.
Urugpayan insurgents have defeated
"a government force Of 1900 near San
Ramon.
Forty were killed by an explosion of
gunpowder at Fort Phatinda, in the
Punjab.s&
Boston book and job printers are on
strike to enforce the demand for a new
wage scale =
Our European squadron has been or
dered to GuIebra to take part in the
coming naval maneuvers there.
Luke =. Wright and Henry g. fde
Have been inaugurated respectively as
governor and vice governor Of the Phil
ip9ines,
The, senate has decided, to. appoint, a
committee to, investigate the charges
against Senator Dietrich Of Nebraska
al, his request.
sEladiYastok dispatches say that 50,-
900 Russian troops are expected there
this month to strengthen the garrison
md that orders are expected to mobi-
lie all the reserves in the far east.
Perth Amboy evening news., 1904-02-02
BEARS FOND OF PEANUTS.
Even the Bfs Fellows from the Polaa
Regions Delight In a Feast
of the "Goobers."

All bears appear to like peanuts,
whether the beasts come from the south
ern regions, where the peanut grows,
or from the mountains or the frozen
north, where the peanut is quite I'M
RnoWn. II the taste for peanuts is not
implanted In them naturally they ac-
quire 1t very readily, as is shown, for
example, by the grizzly and the polar
Dear in the menagerie in Central park.
The big grizzly comes to the front Of
It's greatcage in the bear Den, and thrusts
Its nose between the bars and opens its
caVerAeus mouth, thus a~ffording to
visitors an opportunity of indulging in
the sport of throwing peanuts down its
throat. This is a pleasure that appeals
chiefly to children.
But those who try it don't always sue
coed In tossing the peanut into the bSlr's
mouth. There is a railing in front of
the cage that keeps the people at a lit
tie distance, and the children's fear is
likely to make them nervous, and SO
their aim is. uncertain. Therefore, the
peanut may hit the grizzlY's instead
of going straight into its mouth, or it
may hit one of the bars Of the cage and
fall outside ON the stone in which the
bars are imbedded.
But when the children throw more
peanuts and when they have thrown all
they have, and have seen the grizzly eat
all it caught, they have another sight
waiting for them that pleases them more
If possible than it did to see the bear
catch the peanuts in its mouth.
When no more are coming to it, the
grizzly lifts one of its big paws and
thrusts it out between the bars as far as
1t can reach on the stone ledge, and
sweeps up and gathers in the peanuts
that have fallen there and eats them.
To see the bear eat the peanuts 1t catchest
is amusing as well as interesting; to see
1t stretch out through the bars that pom
derous and powerful pat#9iisefalmost
startling. gtnayy
The polar bear comes up mth yhhusts.
its nose through the bars fer peanuts
in just the same way, and 1t CLEANS those
that fall outside in the same manner,
with this addition, that besides thrust
ing out its big. Whitehead paw between
the bars to rake in stray peanuts that
have fallen outside 1t sometimes for this
purpose thrusts out its tongue.
The grizzly bear eats the kernels OF
the peanuts only, and rejects the shells;
the polar bear eats them shells and all.
But the grizzly has been here the longer
time-perhaps the polar will! come to be
equally fastidious. All bears, grizzlies
and polars as we'll as those from milder
chimes, appear to be fond Of peanuts.
Perth Amboy evening news., 1904-02-02
FORESTS AND cRoss-T1Es.
Fac Bureau of Forestry mt WasIins-
ton at Work Upon an ImpOr-
tnnt Problem. =

y DID,. - A ALN
According to estimates of railway au-
ihorities on file in the bureau Of for
tstry at Washington, 100. 100000 cross
ties are annually required by the rail-
ways for new trackage and for replace
ment Of veteran ties, and the estimates
we're accompanied by requests for adj
vice and suggestions on the subject from
the bureau. Advice and good sugges-
lions must be had. and at once, equally
with good cross ties, for the railway au-
thorities are looking with serious appre-
hension on the rapid disappearance of
the long-leafed pine tree-the best ma
terial known for cross ties.
The answer Of the bureau was prompt
and twofold, states the Cincinnati Com
mercial Tribune. First advising the
railway companies to use cheaper
grades of timber, such as beech or birch,
and. stating that Swiss railways made
their beech ties last 80 years By impreg-
mating them with tar oil, the bureau
strongly urged on the railways the adj
visibility of going into the timber bust
ness for themselves and securing an am
pie source of tie supply without further
t%renchfag on the rapidly disappearing
pine forests. The suggestion was taken
in good part, and three great trunk
lines have placed engineer corps in the
field studying the woodlands in the
neighborhoodl of their lines with the ul-
innate view of raising their own TIMBER
~cheapening the cost to themselves, pre-
serving the forests so far as it is posi-
Bile and making two trees grow where
but one grew before, or, possibly, none.
So serious has the question of timber
preserves become that the highest com
mendation is due to the work of the bu-
reau of forestry, and, incidentally, to the
great trunk lines, quick to appreciate a
good suggestion, and quick to set about
its accomplishment. IL congress would
bat put O crimp in the ravages Of the
wood pulpers 1t would do as much for
the preservation of the forests as the
plan proposed to the railway companies,
il 1t did not do more, and 1t would have
the additional advantage of c~heapening
to. the public their books, magazines,
newspapers and school books. However,
in good time the Importance of the for
ests to the country will come to be right
ly appreciated. @
Perth Amboy evening news., 1904-02-02
A WEST AFRICAN MARKET DAY
Everything Is systematically Ar
ranged and "a Great Variety of
Things Are ON Sale. ~.

In northern Nigeria there is a very
general prosperity, due mainly to the
Hausa's undeniable industry in COM
mercial pursuits. Accounts of a mar
ket day in the town OF Zaria are very in
teresting, says the London Magazine of
Commerce. At least 10, 600 people were
crowded together in q huge square and
its neighboring streets, so that 1t was
only with difficulty a horse and rider
moved at all. Everything appeared to
be systematically arranged, separate
areas being located, under head markets
men (who also collect atax from mer-
chants), for produce, Of cotton, cloth,
gutta percha Every little RUBBER, hides,
leather and leather work, ivory, ostrich
feathers, indigo and fiber; for food
stuffs, of various cereals, such as In
dian corn, Guinea corn, millet, rice,
barley. vegetables-such .4aso onions,
pumpkins, ground nuts 1.-THE iissSogzcalled
monkey-nut), vans and sweet potatoes
along with fresh and! sour fnitk, but
ter, shea-nut butter, dried HHnH s1freBh
meat, while the livestock market was
well represented by fowls, turkeys,
goats, sheep, cattle, horses and dom
keys, even a solitary camel being pres
ent. Cowrie shells (and occasionally
Maria Terese dollars are used as a
standard of value. A magnificent war
horse was pareded for sale at 100000
cowries. our equivalent being about a4o
to ESQ. Useful mounts can, however,
be obtained from anything over e1o.
Along with the above mentioned prin-
cipal articles are also found the kola-
nut, a most highly priced luxury. COM
ing, as it does, yer a thousand miles
from the hinterlands Of the Gold Coast
and Ashanti; antimony (for dyeing
eyelids)s tin and iron represent the
metals; salt and natron, from Lake
Chad. besides articles of foreign imporf
which are of infinitesImal value COM
pared with natural produce, and mainly
consist, Of copper wire, cloth; knives.
sword blades, razors, needles, beads. etc.
Perth Amboy evening news., 1904-02-02
TEA GOOD M BAD.
A Queer Case of Confusion Arising
e. Among london Experts In a
'nlI CasG An Court. gs,@

Much amusement was created in q
LondAn court room recently by the dis
comfiture of two amateur t~ea-tasters,
who selected assthe best tea the one of
which they had been complaining. One
of the tea experts concerned in the case
said afterward, reports the New York
World, that the mistake was nothing to
wonder at, becaise the general public
has absolutely no tea taste left now.
What an expert would consider a fine
sample of delicious tea, and pay a high
price for, the public would consider
worthless stuff and refuse 1t at any
price.
This change is due to gradual cutting
of prices having. caused coarse Ceylon
tea to be resorted to, stuff with plenty
of tannin in it. Professional tasters do
not often taste that class of tea. They
never swallow 1t if they do take any.
They judge by the aroma and the ap-
pearance of the tea in the cup. It is
quite In art. In making, the water
Is v allowed to boil either long or
a second time; the moment it boils the
kettle is taken off the gas and the tea
is made. After brewing for seven min
utes the tea is poured out into cups
and stands until cold.
Z Ceylon end India teas when cold
become somewhat sirupy, and cloud over
Just as though milk had been poured
in. China tea never clouds.
After standing for an hour or SO a
ring forms on the inside of the cup
where the top of the tea touches; that
Is the tannin, and Is never seen In China,
and rarely In Darjeeling teas. From
these signs and the tea color the faster
tells whether the tea will suit his mar
ket. Blending, or. the mixing Of diff
ferent teas, has to be resorted to in or
der to produce a tea without variation
Of quality from weeketo week. China
tea is again beginning to be largely
drunk. 1t promises, in fact, to BECOME
again the fashion, and some fair host
esses, especially American ladies', are
serving it in glass cups without milk,
so that its pale amber color may be
admired. stastsH
Perth Amboy evening news., 1904-02-02

To vile away the time until the
summer visitors come again, the
people in the coast resorts of Mon
mouth county have taken up the dis
cussion Of annexation. According to
the programs, Asbury Park wants
everything from the Shark river to
Seabright, excepting Ocean Grove,
and all north of Seabright and extend.
ing inland, is to be Long Branch.
Several mass meetings have been held
and tile popular opinion, outside OF
Asbury Park and Long Branch as they
now are, is against annexation. OF
course there was no danger of such q
thing ever taking place, but it served
its puroos The resorts now have
their old famliar'tLenten season" to
talk about and the annexation idea
will be carefully stored away for the
dull days next winter.
Perth Amboy evening news., 1904-02-02
A Montana Court.hip.

The following dialogue took place be-
tween a rural swain Of Montana and
bis lady love. The story is vouched
for by an editor of the local newspa-
per: Silas had been sitting by his
sweetheart beneath the grapevine In
the yard and the pale moonlight of q
northern summer evening was softly
stealing, through the vines, giving the
whole scene the color of a fairy, cavern,
and Silas had reached the point "whar
I jest had ter ak her or bust" Creeping
closer to the blushing maiden who sat
silently toying with her palm leaf fan,
he said:
I've er great mind ter bite yo'."
: What fur, Silas?"
"Bekase yo' won't have me-"
well, yo' hafn't axed me-"
We'll, I'm gwine to-"
well, I'm a-waitin'."
Now | axed YER" 5Q
Den I'll have yer" III
And then the pale noon blushe6 q
crimson red aid the old lop-eared hound
lying by the gate gave chase to a neigh
boris intruding pigs-Butte Inter-Moun-
tain.
Perth Amboy evening news., 1904-02-02
iCzAKS FRIENDSHIP
Emperor at Winter Palace
Ball Assures Me- ormick.
TALKS PEACE, BUT PREPARES FOR WAR
Russian Army In the Far East to BE
strengthened by Addition of Nam
churIan Reserves - Military
Trains &c East Daily.

ST. PETERSBURG, Feb. q. - The
court bali at the Winter palace last
night was the most brilliant event oil
its kind held here for. years, and il
marked the climax of the social season
The vast labyrinth of the famous
halls presented q remarkable scene, fol
every one present, from the car down
to the lowest civilian, was in uniform.
The ladies were clad in magnificent
court costumes, and the dazzling dis
play of jewels probably could not be
surpassed at any other court of Eu-
rope. The ladies of the diplomatic corps
present Wore court gowns of great
beauty.
The car and czarfna and the impe-
rial family met the guests in the white
marble saloon. His majesty, wearing
the simple uniform of an officer of the
imperial guard, led the grand march
with Lady Scott, wife of the British
ambassador, the ambassador escorting
the czarina. The dowager empress was
not present. Mrs. Mccormick, wife of
the American ambassador, was escort
ed by Grand Duke Cyrille. The car
did not dance the Russian mazurka,
which is the feature of the court balls,
but instead he moved about and con
versed with the diplomats. While
speaking with Ambassador Mccormick
his majesty took occasion to
the assurances of his warm friendship
for the United States. . Assn +.
During the evening Count Lamsdorff,
the foreign minister, drew M. Kurino,
the Japanese minister, into a window
embrasure, where the two talked ear
nestly for half an hour. This incident
attracted general attention,
In the course of the evening Spencer
f. Eddy, secretary of the American
embassy. was presented to the czarina.
A grand supper at which 5000 guests
sat down was laid at midnight.
In spite of the expressed hope of the
Russian authorities that the present
crisis will be passed and that a pacific
solution of the Russo-Japanese nego-
tiatiens will be reached, 1t is ne longer
concealed that Russia is practically
preparing for eventualities by the mob
ilization of the Manchurian reserves.
1t has been we'll known for months
that Russia has been steadily strength
ening her army and navy in the far
east to meet the preparations which
Japan was openly making. The avail
able warships were dispatched to the
far east, and the last division, which
left the Mediterranean a month age.
is low nearing its destination. Quiet
~, butt surely, it was necessary that
Russia's preparations should keep pace
with those of her diplomatic adverse
ry. The feyerish activity Of Japan
during the last few weeks naturally
increased the distrust of her ultimate
intentions, and the Russian authori
ties have been pushing their precau.
tionary measures with more yigor.
The draft of Russia's reply probably
will be submitted to the car today.
The Russian press agrees that treaty
guarantees covering Manchuria and
for Japan to fortify south
ern Korea, making a closed sea of the
sea of Japan, are impossible.
Perth Amboy evening news., 1904-02-02

The Long Branch News says; One
of the most commendable works a.
.chieved by the Board of Trade Of
Freehold has been a profound awaken
ing of the business men there to tile
Importance of advertising. The idea
that has crowded itself into the heads
of some business men that ID is neces
sary to advertise only at certain sea.
ions OF the year is a mere fancy.
The buyer IN looking for inducements
twelve months in the year, and the
man who does not advertise his bust:
ness the year round is fostering a los
ing whim"-Union Democrat.
Perth Amboy evening news., 1904-02-02
whitney,s Condition critical.

NEW YORK, Feb. 2.-It is announced
that the condition of William G. Whit
ney Is about the same. There is no
change, but MI. Whitney is not vet out
Of danger. A consultation was held
between DR.. Janeway, DR.. Bull, DR..
Delafield and DR.. Poole. The four ply
sicians were together an hour and a
half. Apparently the serious condition
Of the patient caused the protracted
conference.