Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1904-04-30

1 IbDTluB btdbOn 10 bO AaNC AhAP gN&
that a sudden transition from winte
to summer styles may be expected
This is to be regretted, as the fashions
for this spring are really charming
and becoming. Many handsomt
spring gown is awaiting its resurrec
tion before the season becomes too
hot and many a possessor Of a be
witching spring hat is watching the
sky and the thermometer anxiously
from day to day, in hope that at last
gentle spring would take the sceptre
out of the frosty fingers of old Boreas
Coats and wraps of various kinds
are all the rage in Paris, and there are
many indications that they will also
be extremely popular here this sea.
son. These coats are made in a won.
derful variety of styles, and the great
est freedom is allowed in the special
features introduced in the cut and or
namentation. They will be worn in
different lengths, from the short coz
uettish to the more majestic three
quarter or full length coat, more suit
able for ceremonious occasions. Be.
sides these coats there will be count
less mantels, of every imaginable
style and pattern. Many of these
mantels affected by the Partisan wo.
men of society are q trife too ex-
treme to become popular on this side
Of the ocean, but some Of those start
ling creations will undoubtedly find
their way to New York. The great
variety permitted in these coats and
other wraps make them, or at least
some of them, suitable for every age,
figure or taste. Elderly women, who
are relegated to more somber effects
of colored materials, have to be sat
isfied with the palmer coats of dark
colored materials, while the younger
women will have all the colors of the
rainbow and their combinations and
hundreds of patterns to choose from.
Nantes intended for carriage or
evening wear are made very elabo-
rately and in some cases the most
luxurious materials are used in their
ornamentation and trimming. Some
of them are made loosely and have a
draped shawl cape; others are scarce
ly anything but double or triple capes,
the lowest and longest, long and full,
the second shorter and jraped in
shawl fashion.
Nearly every known dressy mate.
rial is used for these coats and man
ties. They are made In broadcloth,
soft taffetas, etamines, Louisines,
failles, brocades, and scores of other
materials, Rushes and frills of vari.
GUS decorative materials, laces of all
kinds, applique designs, etc, will be
the favorite means of ornamentation.
Some of the longer coats for evening
wear are almost entirely made of lace
upon more substantial background
and are extremely handsome and
dressy. The coats for street wear are
comparatively short and not quite so
elaborate and dainty as the evening
coats.
The diractoire style of coats is
gaining in favor and will probably be
seen a great deal during the coming
fall and winter These coats are par.
ticularly handsome in velvets, but
silk, satin, cloth and even crepe do
chine may be used for their body.
Heavy silk crepe is used with ex.
cellent results in making some of
those coats and loose wraps. II lends
Itself particularly well to shirring.
putting and ruching, and. when drap,
ed, gives soft and graceful folds.
Open canvas, etamine and voile are
also good materials and may be made
up over silk or chiffon in loose coats
or wraps, but soft silks and chiffons
give much softer and satisfactory eff
fects. Pongees and shantungs In va.
''NNH NNANAo are uhSu Win exquisite
effect for the body of coats and
wraps as well as for purposes of
trimming. The softer shades are
mostly used for the body, the bright.
er eolors for the trimming and bind
ing, Many OF these pongee coats are
quite elaborate, being ornamented
with shirrings and puffings. besides
lace insertions and lace fiounces.
There are certain indications that
the dropping shoulder effect, which
was first introduced last year. is on
the wane and will soon be driven out
OF the field by broader and higher
shoulder effect. It is also quite prob
able that this will not be the only
material change, but that closer flt-
ting garments and simpler styles will
take the place OF the present alto
gether too elaborate styles.