Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1904-12-24

Is the last cry IN things fashionable.
OF sombre materials there have been
many, in waxing and waning and wax
ing again vogues for several seasons
Shaded chiffons for evening gowns,
shaded v%elvets, shaded silks and last,
until the new arrival appeared, shaded
broadcloth. Shaded ribbons there are
of course in abundance, but they have
been somewhat frowned upon, gradual
lions of tone being obtained better in
trimmings by the use of many pieces
each of a different shade. The supple
ness of the ribbons makes such treat
ment possible without a suggestion of
the bungling.
The new leather has so far appeared
as a trimming for automobile coats
or in bolts on stocks. All the fashion
able colors-rich reds, bronzes, browns
and grays-are provided, each in all
OF it's many shades. The shaded leath-
er is known as "burberyene." 1t is,
it is said, especially strong and imper-
vious to weather. An automobile coat
of dark red cloth has a very deep, fan
cifully-shaped yoke effect of shaded red
leather, cut out in a novel pattern. The
front part of the yoke is not more than
three inches above the waistband. On
the top of each sleeve is a fancifully-
shaped ornament cut out of the leather
and applied by stitching. The turnover
collar and cuffs are of the same ma
terial. Belts and collars of the new
leather are finished with buckles of
hammered copper, bronze or silver and
are often further furnished by buttons
of the same materials.
There are certain accessories and
touches common to evening toilets this
winter that give them more than their
usual attractiveness. Take the tucker,
for instance, which is almost univer-
sal in decollette gowns and which lends
itself to a great variety Of treatments.
There is the girdle, which may be Of
and width from that of an ordinary
belt to peasant waist depth. The
draped bodice and its deep paint or
stomacher is another familiar charac-
/ ]teristic of sumptious evening costumes.
Then there is the combination Of bro
cades and v~elvets, with chiffon and
I mousseline and lace, which is respon-
/ sible for some of the richest effects. +.
The toilet of white lace decorated
I with chiffon roses shows one develop.
I ment of the girdle which, in reality
\ has grown to bodice dimensions. II IL
! made of chiffon velvet, in a maiz'
> shade, and is finished with jewelet
buttons The bertha is of white lace
bordered at the front with chiffor
%roses. The decolletage is finished will
a white chiffon tucker.
The union of velvet and gauze il
evening gowns appears in a variety OF
forms-in girdles narrow and wide, il
lbodices, in Louis XIV voats and in di
rcctoire and vatican trains. Brocadei
are employed in the same fashion, anC
so, too, are plain and lowered silk
with lace and chiffon skirts. Velve
coats Of the Louis XIV order are useC
in afternoon visiting and cat home
toilets with cloth skirts. In this cas-
coat and skirt usually match in shade
A surprising number of cloth gown
are being seen at the most Fashionable
daylight affairs. One of the most bril-
liant of the recent afternoon wedding
brought out a majority of such toilets
In fact, velvet and cloth carried tn
day. With many of these cloth eos
tunes, fur coats were worn. Gray an'
green were the most prominent color
in cloths, although mole and BROW
were there. In all the gowns, thu
skirts were close-ftting at the top ant
lared wide at the foot, although with
out stiffening to hold them in place.
The scare about crinolines appears t.
have been nipped in the bud. There is
of course, always a possibility that the
vogue map crop out next spring-the
season when it would naturally be ex-
peeted.
Last season 3 skirt is not far from
the present style. With the use of
coats of contrasting materials, the re-
furnishing of passe costumes is made
comparatively simple. IT is the sleeves
that are the most difficult of readjust-
ment in last years gowns. But even
these, given gumption and new trim
mings, may often be brought quite up
TO date. The beginning Of the season
saw a tentative effort to bring back
the style Of sleeves in material con
trasting with the bodice, but little has
been seen or heard of the results. Now
and then one sees velvet leg o'mutton
sleeves in a cloth gown, but such APP