Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-09

but artistic. Trimmings play such
an important part in the seasons gowns
as to make of the material itself merely a
fiimsy sort of background. and the reaiIy
worth while varieties are so expensive as
to be beyond the moderate purse WouIo
urge every woman who cannot have trim
mings of the best to leave them severeiy
alone Any trimming with tfnsel enect
is tawdry and may be denounced at once
as bad form. When forced to be economi-
cal 1t Is much better to stick to silk cords.
fat silk braids and the rougher military
weaves, and even these have discouraglng
fashion of mounting up into quite amol-
tious figures.
New Ribbons.
While upon trimming thoughts intent let
me tell you that Russian cross-stitch pat
terms come In the new ribbons, and the eff
feet of this used as vest, collar and GUNS
on a plain dress is very good. cavalry
yellow is used very successfully as a cord
ing on black and white gowns.
For tailor-mades brown, navy blue and
scarlet form the leading colors. and bright
shades of periwinkle and electric blue nave
given place in some instances to the navy
blue. but for the coat and skirt the marine
shade will always be de rigueur. These
gowns are simply fashioned. and nothing in
the way of contrast is used except white
with mixture of gold and silver.
A delightful costume in brown rough
plaits about two inches below the waist.
just clearing the ground all round. The lit
tie bolero coat ends above the waist, show
ing blouse Of finely plated crepe de chine
of a brighter shade of brown and belt OF
kid to match. This smart bolero is edged
with fat brown silk braid and killing Of
taffeta. The high collar of the shirt is fin
ished with a hemstitched cravat, and the
bOlero is tied with a brown Grape scarf hay
ing knotted fringe on the ends. The chic
little hat. worn tilted over the face, Is made
of two shades of brown straw, with clus-
tiers of green leaves and bows of straw at
the back Boots of brown and suede gloves
of the same color complete this extremely
neat toilet.
The same house also showed dainty
house gown of taffeta with tucked skirt and
corsage of lace and soft ribbon bows and
boullonnes of taffeta.
Mourning Wear.
In all the gay wealth of color one IS
apt to overlook the mourning frock. A SIM
pie and beautiful costume de deuil was of
soft black cashmere. the greater part of the
bodice and front panel on the skirt made Of
Grape. the same material being used for a
deep band which finished the skirt at the
sides and the back.
A chapeau for state occasions is the light
affair created from the thinnest of fabrics
tulle lace and sometimes inletS of straw
The lingerie hats in embroideries and black
and white lace are features of new mil
linery. Even the straw sailors and useful
hats are of transparent effects, often a
mingling of two contrasting shades and diff
ferent kinds of braids. A new leghOrn hat
is fancifully turned UP at one side and
mounted a bandeau of soft twisted
white ribbon and black velvet. the same
combination making the large bow where
the hat turns at the side. Black and white
feathers curl over the back of the hat. The
popular sailor comes in a different guiSe
trimmed over the shallow crown.
The present fashions in their entirety can
not be worn by everybody. but with modii-
cations are quite within the reach of tall,
short. thin or stout. A piece of advice
given not long ago by an old lady who knew
the world well was, Hold yourself UP, my
dear. and look though you were some
body. and it doesn't make any difference
whether your frock is 1880 or 1904"
am inclined to agree with her.
CATHERINE TALBOT,