Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-08-20

tested of dressmakers who are reaping
fabulous prices for handwork and nothing
but handwork.
The fashion of the gown counts less and
less as the days roll round. A Weil-nttlng
lining is, of course, essential to secure q
well-hanging garment. and after that httle
else counts. 50 complete are INES ana
seams hidden by masses OF needlework.
Sleeves may Duff at the shoulder or over the
wrist. bodices may blouse at the waist!ine
or sway in boufrant lines around the shout
ders All is we'll so long as there be tucks
upon tucks, lace applied upon chiffon or
even lace upon lace, and the shadow OF the
sewing machine hang not over the garment
at all.
The woman who ina gines that she can
come back to town and have Few inter
esting sessions with her modste over few
simple little costumes IS laying up trouble
for herself and the modiste. There Will De
no simple little things this season--that
is for the woman who Is ambitious 10 APP
pear smart Aside from the strictly tailor
ed garment everything. from tea gown or
neglige to ball dress, will be buried IN
needlework. And the thinner the FABRIC the
more ornate it's treatment
Complicated Simplicity.
Consider a so-calIed simple frock of silky
white net whose lines are quite demure and
whose color combination. black and white
would suggest the country mouse" type Of
woman. The foundation Is white glace silk
or the most Supple WedNc, SuSh Us HlcSSd-
line. The skirt measures more than five
yards round the foot and shallow band
of hair cloth Is set into the hem of the
drop skirt to insure that slight fiou' ef-
feet which is essential in the frock of the
hour.
Presumabiy the gown is OF net. but 1t is
a real case of sixteen to one-sixteen yards
of lace to one of net. The net appears in
the skirt In two sets OF hand-run shirrings.
to the lower of which Is attached a fiounc-
ing, or rather an Inset Of repousse lace.
which is connected by hand work with trip
licate shirrings. very fine and narrow, just
above the knee. Then comes another inse.
of the lace set into wide band Of the net.
which, in turn. Is applfqued with black
Chantilly The frou-frou which finishes
the bottom is still another shirred founce
of the white repousse.
The decollete bodice is Of shirred net,
completely hidden by a bolero of repousse
lace. The three-quarter sleeves are OF
hand-shirred net running lengthwise and
with lace fiounce set In the back seam.
Single Chantilly motifs are applied on the
blouse and the girdle is shirred net. run
with narrow black velvet ribbon. The fin
ishing touch OF handwork is given In the
application of the chantiliy lace. This
shows a fern-leaf pattern, and the middle
vein of each leaf is outlined with a num-
Der of tiny silver paillettes.
In Chiffon Cloth.
This same design has been reproduced In
chiffon cloth of a delicate yellow tone with
lace of the same tint and applied motifs
in orange velvet of the tone which promises
to be one of the directoire ear marks of the
fall fashions.
Black lace is much seen in appliques
white net or white lace. Here the contrast
is apt to be rather strong. Black motifs
in guipure or Arabian lace are seen on
white Chantilly, Valenciennes or point de
Paris while black Chantilly or other fine
transparent laces are used as insets or
banding with heavy white or cream laces.
The most delicate Of fabrics are combin-
ed tactfully with heavy. weighty laces.
This requires exquisite handwork. to en-
nance the contrast. Picture, IL you can.
this combination Of pale pink chiffon cloth
and point de Venise lace. The skirt Is
built in sections of stirring and tucks d.
yided by lace panels. Lateral tuckinS
forms a woke around the hip inset with lace
which runs horizontally. Then comes wide
Ia nd of lateral tucking and a narrow band
of the lace This is followed by band OF
tucked chiffon cloth, with the tucks run
ming horizontally and band OF the lace
sat beneath It, Last comes graduated
flounce of the chiffon cloth. tucked lateral
Iv and inset with panels of the lace. with
ieener horizontal tucks forming the finish
Bodice in Detail.
The blouse Is shirred chiffon, with
bolero of the lace faced with lingerie ruff
fiss Of sswhite chiffon with finest Mechlin