Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-11-26

really lovely. Carriere Is king In this sa-
lon. and his The Engagement" is the
work everybody is crowding to behold.
Rosso, who Is notwithstanding all our
preconceived ideas of sculpture, is an
other lion of the day The attitude of the
general public toward this exhibition is
difficult to predict. but the monde elegant
has already given its sympathies to the
new society. The show proved an excel
lent opportunity for noting the smart
toilets of many well-known Parisiennes.
Severity is the note of the moment, ex-
cept for evening toilets, when magma
tion may and does run riot to Its hearts
content, and to the distress of our purse
strings
Nothing very remarkable was observed
in the salon costumes. Indeed, there Is
nothing startling 1 can tell you about
fashions except that the spring and sum-
mer modes seem to be modified to meet
the requirements of heavy winter fab
rics. The skirts have not undergone any
special change except in regard to length.
They are cut much the same on the hips
and have the godet en- forme, which is a
practical way of bringing about a becom-
ing spring" Many of the skirts have
tablier fronts, and the f1ounces begin at
the sides, graduating in depth at the
back. To my mind this is not good line,
as it gives a drawn-out effect.
A Decided Change.
The figure of fashion has changed de-
cidedly, and the great ambition of the
dress artists this year is to widen the
shoulders. decrease the waist and round
out the hips of their patrons. In some
instances the tops of the sleeves are
padded and wired and fit very closely
down into the wrists. while the accom-
panying skirt is killed or gathered to
stand out below the waist 1t is easy to
understand that such an arrangement
best fnsures the figure OF fashion.
The redingote is the really new sar-
torial item that towers above every other
form of outdoor wear at present, and the
wrap redingote is apparently having a
fair field and all favor here in Paris. Most
of us have never been acquainted with
the ancestor of the present redingote, and
1t may be well to recall a few of its char
acteristics, 1t is essentially tight fitting
garment or, at least, it is necessary that
the waist be clearly defined, below which
the skirt may flow in greater or less
freedom. In the old order the freer the
flow the greater the elegance but today
the license We have been taking with re-
vived styles generally prevails in the
redngote, the title being applied to a
long -skrted coat entirely apart from the
ordinary paletot.
The smartest models fit close to the
figure in the back and sides. a fun basque
being scanned on just where the waist
terminates instead OF over the hips. The
sleeves are nearly always of the leg-of-
mutton style, with large turned back
cuffs. which are often made more elab-
crate by tight silk undercur hand
somely embroidered. The dressy redin-
cote of velvet generally opens over a
waistcoat OF some expensive stuff. But
thlS coat is not confined to velvet as q
hitting exponent for its charms as cloth
Is quite as suitable. For practical pur-
poses there is much to be said in favor
OF the cloth redingote and the most stun
mins examples l have seen are trimmed
VITA SILK braid of the new broad-p plated
variety. carried out in military fashion
down the center front of the wrap from
throat to hem and over the shoulders
Il Ut NIe woman with n large hank
count redingotes are to be had in seal
skin and in all the finer pelts of the sea
son.
Old Gold Again.
Among the revived colors used for gowns
or today is the genuine 'oid gold employ
Ell so ahundantly for drawing room furni-
ture with ebony frames. which represented
The artistic upholstery creed of decade
ago. This shade Is not to be COMPOUNDED
with the almost impossible color la mode
has made us accept this winter-mustarci
yellow. Parisians are growing enthusiast
over a tone OF green known as tilIeuI. a
soft hnden-tree shade. which is being eff
teetlvely made up into toilets of cloth and
velvet
Thrown to the Winds.
The peacock superstition will have to be
thrown TO the winds by the swagger women
or the season. as these feathers and
the dinerent combination of their glorious
culor blend is the dernier cri In sartorial
circles at the gay capital This feather is
c"Iuettishly stuck through smart millinery
creations. and on one of the fetching hats
OF the season carried out in three shades OF
brown velvet the trimming consisted of
Three waving peacock plumes. To be sure.
they were dyed brown TO match the toque
but there was no mistaking their or gin.
feaeock blues and greens are also finding