The San Francisco call., 1904-02-21

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that indescribably feminins look
which is created by trailing robes, TO
whose influence no eye, be it mas
culine or feminine, can be 1nsenslOle'
VIII the Skirts Grow Fuller?
The question Of whether the skirts
will grow fuller is one that IS being
continually agitated, with many argu-
ments both ways 1t looks from
critical study of the fashions as though
woman had affected pretty cOmpro-
mise 1t looks as though she had
managed to make her skirts fuller
without sacrificing her figure and no
woman wants TO sacrifice her figure
There is no doubt that the skirts OF
the previous century did make
woman appear fuller and even the
more modified skirts of the last hun
dred years had that tendency. The eN-
ceptions were the skirts that came IN
during the last few years, the eel skin
skirt, the umbrella skirt, which was
full only below the knees. and the
skirt which ciung all the way down,
with scarcely any fullness at all until
it cascaded around the feet.
The skirts Of to-day are much fuller
than the skirts of the past few years,
vet one would hesitate to call them
vOIuminOus skirts. There is one spe-
ciaHy which is delightfully."- planned
full vet not too full and quite cling
This skirt is trimmed with three deep
fOunces of the same cloth with each
fiounce finished with band OF satin
ribbon. There is nothing dressy, yet
the effect is elegant.
Another skirt is very full, with the
plaits turned under at each seam and
stitched fiat. Suddenly there is a flare.
the wide plaits are released and the
skirt falls in great soft folds.
1t is rs a rule the silks that can be
managed best. These can be tucked.
shirred or plated around the hips.
without adding to the size Of the waist
or hips and without making the figure
awkward. The thin novelty cloths. al
most sheer, with a little silk or a tiny
satin figure. are also good. And there
are countless linens and batistes and
lightweight goods with a silky finish
that make up exquisitely. These goods
are all of a nature which will admit
of the fashionable fun hip treatment.
Gowns for the London Season.
A London dressmaker is responsible
for the statement that the gowns OF
the coming season will be far superior
to any ever seen before. Stocks may
be depressed" said he. and times
hard. But the gowns viii bear no evil
dence Of this fact. They have never
been lOvelier, and the first models
speak volumes for those that are to
come.
"One of the most noticeable features
viii be the velvet ribbons or the way
IL which the skirts are trimmed with
bands OF velvet. Velvet ribbon. by the
way" continued he, will be much in
evidence. And skirts Will be trimmed
with it to the exclusion of any other
trimmings.
There will be charming skirts of
peau de sole, dull and dressy. trimmed
with deep flounces of point d'espFit
lace. Above the point d'esDrit lace
there will be wide band of velvet
ribbon. And, strapping this velvet
ribbon. there will be narrow bands OF
dull silk.
THE belt in such cases should be
made Of velvet and should be brought
down to a deep point in the middle of
the front"
1t is safe to say, judging from cur
sorry peeps into the dressmaking par
lors. that velvet ribbon viii trim
great many Of the handsOlnest waists.
whether these be OF ribbon or OF lace
And the loveliest effects will be pro-
duced by winding narrow bands OF
velvet ribbon through the lace and
tying it in little knots and bows.
Ribbon, too. is also to be used I'm
cuff trimming and it is to be seen i'm
every stage Of flounce and yoke and
vest trimming. Indeed in one way it
will be conspicuously a ribbon season.
The rule for using the very narrow
bands of colored velve. ribbon is. ac-
cording to a very fashionable shirt
waist trimmer, this: Take a bolt OF
narrow velvet ribbon and thread an
end through a ribbon needle. Go in
and out through the lace. tying it in a
knot in the middle OF the front Try.
in threading the ribbon, to use some
sort Of pattern, if it be only a curve
or swirl or little twist. Just so as
to relieve the monotony Of outline
Use up as much Of the velvet ribbon as
possible. When you have Completed
the whole you will have a pretty
waist"