The San Francisco call., 1904-06-12


skein Of gold braid, partly black and
partly green. slender mixed braid
with the gold running through II ike
q shining thread.
Give me one touch Of gold and 1
can transform this waist from an af-
teruoon waist. a simple affair Of no
distinction whatever, into something
nice enough fer luncheon, fine enough
even for dinners"
The waist. which was leaf green
china silk, was made with little strap
pings across the front each strap
consisting Of band of ribbon with
buttons on the end. The buttons were
tiny gold affairs and the braid was
very slender and very bright gold.
The pretty girl who wanted touch
Of gold traced a pattern upon the
front and with supple fingers she out.
lined a figure upon the sleeves. When
she had finished the waist was glo-
rious with its golden lights. That
makes n French waist of It," said she,
patung It with approval. for all Par
isian waists have a little gold"
The touch OF gold is indeed upon
everything. The gold does not take
violent forms but it is used delicately.
Il is not seen in wide strappings nor
in broad bands. nor yet in heavy APP
plications. But on the other hand,
II is used in very subtle ways. Threads
OF gold are run around low Dutch
necks: gold stitchings are used down
the fronts OF waists; gold traceries
adorn buttonholes and outline them
and half the buttons show touches OF
gold and are surrounded by gold or
naments, such as gold passementerie-
IN this way gold is introduced In the
gowns Of summer.
one lovely summer suit was made
Of coral voile. a brilliant gown, IN
marvellous hue Its only trimming
consisted Of buttons OF gold trimmed
with coral and Of yards and yards Of
white lace with coral traceries upon
the lace.
Thus and in ingenious ways. is gold
brought into a costume, and thus, and
IN diverse ways, il is made to trim a
gown and to set 1t off delicateIy.
There is always a dress sensation
and the novelty this week is found in
the English embroideries. which are
being introduced upon gowns. This
English embroidery is the old fash
Toned eyelet embroidery and the pret-
test dresses Of the season are trim
med with it and made UP with no
other decoration except this.
English embroidery forms not only
the panels and the ruffles of wash
dresses, but Of other gowns as well.
SILK dresses have panels down the
front carried out in This manner, and
there are gowns with sleeves. neck
and yoke punched full OF eyelet holes
and worked very much as one worked
the flannel petticoats some years ago.
II is a poor week that has only one
dress sensation and this week is par
ticularly rich, in that it has no less
than six, one OF the prettiest of which
IS found in the new collar. This COL
lar. which is, of course, a revival col
lar. is brought out again and is chris
tened the Spanish collar, probably be-
cause it is made SO frequently Of
Spanish lace.
The Spanish collar is made in sew
eral forms and it is made out Of all
kinds OF lace and is worn upon every
gown under the sun. Nothing is
exempt from the influence Of the lace
collar whether It be the delicate
gown OF organdie, upon which the lace
collar seems eminently suitable. or the
gown Of ladies cloth over which the
lace collar Is a novelty.
The collar is made square, e
brought around the shoulders and is
crossed in front. The ends hang down
in two long tabs below the belt line.
This style OF collar is particularly
beautiful, giving something of the old
time look so much desired
Collar lace can be Of any kind, but
II is quite fad to choose three kinds
OF lace and combine them in one big
collar. There IS flet upon which
heavy lace can be appliqued, while
around the edge there can be set
border OF Valenciennes lace. Then
there are the Escurial laces, which are
very good for collar laces, and there
is Spanish lace. which is revived from
the attics and old trunks and which
is the very best of all.
Piece lace makes a delightful coll
lar and il is inexpensive. You take
the lace and spread II down, laying a
wide collar pattern upon it. You cut
out the pattern carefully and then
you finish the edges OF the collar in
one OF several ways. You can take
and border It with lace, simply laying
the lace on fiat so as to cover the
ragged edge, and for this purpose
Valenciennes lace is very nice, or any
OF the other narrow laces can be used.
And there is another way to deal
with the ragged edges. Take the coll
lar and border It with band OF silk,
put on like a piping. This gives a
strong. secure edge, one that will be
durable and much admired for many
a long day. as long as there is a rag
OF the lace left.
Give me six linen gowns and can
dress all summer" declared a Newport
belle, smoothing the skirt of her new
lnen etamine. This looks like an eta