The Tupelo journal., 1904-02-26
MODISH FANCIEs.
Something New and Striking II the
d I'm Waists-The Fa-
vOrite Trimming.

vorite Trimming.
The waists seen recently are very
deliberately embroidered in chrysanthe-
num-, cherry blossom, hawthorn and
dragon designs. The last named is
bizarre, but highly decorative, and will
be popular. says the New York Post. A
typical waist has two short, stole-like
lines of drawnwork at the throat, alter
mating with groups of three hemstitched
tucks. Nearly the entire front of the
waist is embroidered in cherry bios
SONS. The waist closes in the back and
has lines of drawnwork on either side
OF the button flap. The sleeves have the
drawnwork from shoulder to wristband,
with groups of hemstitched tucks rs a
border. Tucks and very narrow drawn
work bands form the shallow cuffs.
Kinu is the Japanese name for raw
silk, but the word is used specifically
to describe a new wash silk. Pronounce
it kinyu, with the accent on the first
syllable, though, properly, the Japanese
language has no accents. By the yard,
KIM sells for n dollar, but very little
OF 1t is seen as yet, except in some
charming waists in one importing
house. There is nothing quite like it.
some of the rougher pongees having
something of the same irregular, hand
loom surface, with brownish threads
showing through occasionally. KIM,
however, is as thin as India silk. The
vary old hn"n- our GILL ,Loot, ,,r
grandmothers stored away in lavendar
were really about the same thing.
Some of the waists are simple affairs
with a touch of heavy lace and a bit OF
pale blue or dull green embroidery for
trimming. but others are handsome and
ornate affairs. This column does not
consider the separate waist with a dark
skirt good style, and only advises it
for home and informal wear. 1t is sure
ly an extravaganza to put $50 or $40 into
a waist when the same amount Of
money, or a little more, woul d purchase
an entire gown. Perhaps the fashion
OF wearing white cloth skirts and white
waists will become permanent. In that
case it might pay to buy a kinu waist,
combined with lace and strips of en-
broidery from a mandarin skirt. In one
instance the strips were rich blue satin
embroidered with hawthorn. In an
other the embroidery was Bulgarian,
small squares of brilliant red and gold.
India linen is to be revived for lin
gerie waists. Not the stiff ~nainsook
imitation called India linon, which, OF
course. Is all cotton, but the real
linen woven and bleached in India.
1t is very fine and soft and looks
cooler than almost any other white
goods. Some handsomely embroidered
waist patterns are among recent i'm.
portations.
The popularity of Valenciennes lace
will be even greater this year than
last. The real lace is not out of reach
of modest purses, and is so far su
perior to the best imitation that it Is
a temptation. AS real lace wears for
years, and Valenciennes is never very
long out Of fashion, one is not to be
accused of extravaganza if she wears a
lingerie waist with a square yoke made
of strips of real lace insertion, Joined
with fine scanning. The yoke is finished
at the bottom with a strip of the lace and
a slightly fulled fuf1e of a matching
edge, the scanning outlining the inser-
ton on either side. The waist described
is of white China silk, but India linen
or null would be equally good. The
waist is Joined to the lace yoke in groups
Of fine pin tucks for fullness. Short
pointed strips of the insertion are in
set at the belt, running upwards about
six inches. Deep cuffs and a collar Of
bands Of lace and scanning finish the
waist.
A favorite trimming will be the open
cut work, or old English embroidery, a
snowy but elegant form of needlework,
popular in early Victorian days, before
machine embroidery destroyed the taste
for simple things. Some very handsome
linen gowns and gown patterns in china
blue and old pink linen, bordered with
this embroidery are seen. The designs
are all very simple-a mere line of
heavy white embroidery on the blue,
with open work spaces coming into the
pattern at intervals. 1t is as effective
as anything that has been seen.