The San Francisco call., 1904-10-30

eye to the harmonles OF dress. II sha
will consider it's requirements she
must realize how and why. when and
where the gown is to be worn.
An excellent example of this was af-
fOrded recently by a woman who went
into a fashionable dressmaking estab-
lishment to purchase a gown. Il want
a dress" said she. ito wear with a
long cloak. My cloak is made OF black
brOadcloth, with box plated back.
1t is three-quarter length, is trimmed
with silk cords. silk fringe and silk
tassels. 1t opens down the front and
Is always worn oDen.'
Then. said the modiste, 'I would
suggest a gown trimmed down the
front with a bodice with a vest effect
As the coat flies open this handsome
front trimming will be very effective"
So she made a gown with a ruffied
lace vest, the lace ruf1es all escaping
down the front OF the vest. each ruff1e
trimmed with a little coIored silk en-
broidery, and the skirt was made with
a marvellous scroll work Of silk shir-
rings. with handsome velvet rosettes
set in the middle OF the shirrings.
Around the foot of the skirt there was
handsome fiOunce with silk shirrings
and rOsettes. With a three-Quarter
cloak this gown was charming.
Match Your Cloak TO Your Gown.
1t Is not always that a woman can
match her cloak to her gown, but she
can very often do so. Even when they
do not match in color and in material
they can be made to harmonize in
other ways The cloak can be cutNso
as TO show off the trimmings on the
gown or it can be trimmed with the
same kind Of lace or, perhaps, with
fringe to correspond.
So much depends upon this preser-
walton OF the harmonies that a woman
is wise who thinks first OF harmony and
afterward Of color and material. 1t
takes only a touch, just the slightest
thing, to bring the two into keeping
with each other.
The conscientious fashion writer Is
called upon these days to give advice.
and like the doctor, the clergyman. the
lawyer and all other professional ad-
visers, she must do the best she can
by those who make inquiries.
To the office of a we'll known fashion
magazine there Travelled the other day
a letter from reader asking how she
could purchase handsome trimmings at
a low price Il am anxious" said the
writer, Ito be well dressed. But I find
the materials so very expensive. A sin
gle yard of passementerie costs upward
CT $40 and handsome yard OF lace
costs anything you want to pay for it.
How, then is a woman Of economical
tendencies going to manage to look
we'll and be suitably dressed?'
To this question there are MANY re-
plies. But the most rational suggestion
OF them all would be to choose Cheaper
trimmings And there are cheaper
ones which look very well indeed.
COrdings OF the shirred variety can
be mentioned as one form OF a chean
pretty trimming. With yard Of white
satin cut on the bias one can make a
great quantity of shirred cordlne. Let
the cords vary in size. and use them
II. differents ways on the skirt.
woman who is noted for her tasfa
in dress obtained a really handsoroe
ERECT by taking two yards OF celery
green satin, which she cut into narrow
strips and used for shirred cor,1inos
one very large cord headed the deem
nounce on her skirt. A smaller cord
ing outlined band of lace insertion
and still more cordings trimmed fha
waist. The result was renarka hlv
pretty and cost comparatively little.
Fold trimmings are inexpensive ana
very pretty and there is such a variety
or folds that one need not fear rnonof-
ony. There are all kinds OF folds. from
the tiny fold which is called a pininr
10 the wide fold which Is box n1aifed
and stitched around the skirt a.
trimming One can get I'D some re-
markably handsome trimmings in This
manner. s'-''