davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1904-09-04

All the good shop-keepers advise the
steaming of velvet before it is made
up, as this will insure it to certain
extent from becoming water stained
The plain velvet weave is preferred
for general wear by women of good
taste. Velour is too heavy for whole
suit, though it is much used for wraps.
Corduroy will be popular for pedes-
trian suits and hard wear, but it is not
a dressy material. Panne and chiffon
velvet are more supple and pliable
than the plain velvet, but they are not
as good for general wear. The panne
velvet is glossy, with satin sheen;
the chiffon velvet has a longer pile
than panne and looks as if it had been
freshly dipped in water. Velvet bro
cades, mirror velvets, velvets ironed
in imitation Of MORE silk, metal and
embroidered velvets are shown in be-
wildering variety, but they are not
for the woman of medium purse.
Some of the importations of fancy
velvets come as. high as ten dollars
per yard, but as quickly as they are
imported from France they are imi-
tated at a dollar or two a yard in the
cheapest of American factory fabrics.
The imported fancy velvets will play
large part in the sartorial scheme of
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1904-09-04

used with a pronounced train. A
striking combination on the reception
or calling gown of black velvet is d
broad band of Irish point lace edged
with tiny fur heads or ornaments.
For the tall woman the favorite lace
band is from twelve to fifteen inches
wide, run around the skirt just above
the hem. Tiny sable ornaments two
inches in diameter are used at the top
and bottom of this lace band so close
as TO make them an extravagant item
in the gowns composition.
Despite the decree of fashion in
favor of the one-fabric costume, sepa-
rate blouses will be worn with velvet
skirts.
The wise woman will have a three
piece velvet suit-skirt, bodice and
wrap-but she will have also several
extra blouses developed on lines and
from fabrics which will combine well
with the velvet skirt Spangled black
nets in iridescent shades, spangled
chiffon, showing metallic paillettes or
embroidered in silver or gold threads,
lace run with gold or silver thread
all these will be used either so1idly or
in combination with chiffons, nets,
crepe de chine and the softest of silks.
These blouses will be worn with elab-
crate girdles.
The long-front restaurant dinner
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1904-09-04

rich women, as they make the most
effective dinner and restaurant gowns.
Hunters green, navy blue and rich
brown will be used for velvet gowns
by women of limited means, but in the
long ruin black velvet is by all odds
the most satisfactory selection, as the
womal with single colored velvet
gown is naturally more conspicuous
than she who wears black with vari-
Gus combinations of lace, net and so
on.
In planning her one velvet gown,
the woman of moderate means must
consider the circumstances under
which she will wear it.
Il she does not own al carriage and
expects to appear on the street in this
gown, she will have it made either in
walking length or with a train so
slight that she can carry it easily. In
this case the gown should be Develop
ed on tailored lines with a Louis coat,
into which she can insert fancy vest
and lace half-sleeves or ruff1es. s
If it must serve as dinner as we'll
as. calling dress the slight train is
essential. The extra bodice should be
made simple, and there is no better
finish than bertha of real lace.
Cheap lace kills the effect of good
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1904-09-04
Black restaurant gown.

velvet nineteen inches wide, sold all
over the country at the uniform price
of three dollars a yard, which, on the
surface, cannot be detected from the
Lyons velvet, retains its lustre, and
possesses wearing qualities that rival
those of the French manufacture.
The experienced woman buys an en-
tire piece of velvet for her winter suit
Ibis measures twenty-five yards, and
will allow for a skirt with slight
train, wrap, high-necked bodice
and an extra evening bodice Even
when she does not expect to make the
evening waist or the wrap she buys
the full piece, with the understanding
that she is to return and get credit for
what is left over
This arrangement is made by the
better class of shop-keepers not en-
tirely for the protection of the custo-
mer, but for>their own interests. The
various shades of black which appear
in velvet make matching difficult
problem, and if a woman is short a
yard or so on her gown and fails to
match the piece when she comes back
to the store she becomes. a dissatis-
fed customer.
On the other hand, the few yards
which she brings back, if the entire
piece proves too much, can be sold at
the regular price for. dress trimming
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1904-09-04

velvet gown. An effective yet not ex-
pensive bertha for woman of ma
ture years to wear with velvet is of
black Chantilly over white chiffon.
Rose point and Irish point are, of
course, the ideal laces for berthas to
be worn with black velvet, but they
are not within reach of every woman
of discriminating taste.
81 One of the peculiarities of velvet is
the fact that in the hands of a good
dressmaker it will make the stout wo-
man look thinner and the thin woman
look stouter. Many women of small
stature are afraid of velvet on the
ground that it will make them look
overdressed. In reality, if properly
handled by the dressmaker, it will give
them certain petite, piquant air
whlch-appeals particularly to the mas
culine sex.
For women Of more generous dress
allowance, the velvet gown may be de-
signed more deliberately. The train
may be as long as the functions for
which it will be worn demand There
IS nothing more stately at the after
noon reception or the dinner than the
graceful, trained velvet skirt.
The most extravagant of trimmings
and the dressiest of wraps will be
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1904-09-04

jacket has many advocates among wo-
men who make practice of dining in
public places and it will combine we'll
with velvet skirts.
Such a jacket recently imported for
a successful theatrical star, to be worn
with velvet costume, has for its foun-
dation black mousseline, while the
jacket proper with long stole-like
fronts and short belted back is of
solid jet paillettes. A dash Of gold
or gold embroidery appears in nearly
all of the dressy blouses and dinner
Jackets.
In the costume trotteur, or smart
walking suit of corduroy, some strik-
ing combinations will be worn. An
imported suit of this sort is developed
from brown corduroy in a nine-gored
skirt laid in box pleats and cut to clear
the ground all around The double
breasted coat is of the Norfolk design,
semi-fitting back and front, with ap-
piled pleatS and a belt that passes
loosely over the hips rather than the
waist
The sleeve is cut on rather straight
lines, and has a cuff of hunters green
cloth which is also used on the collar.
The pleats on the skirt are held down
by cooled watch springs of black SOU
tache braid relieved by a touch of
gold.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1904-09-04
The Modern Girls Weapons.

The present-day girl carries about
her person at least two concealed
weapons in the form of the newest hat
pins. The breadth of the crown of
the up-to-date hat has made it. neces-
sary to add two inches to the length
of the already sufficiently dangerous
hat pin, and the result is astonishing.
The old-fashioned gold or silver pin
of seven or eight inches in length is
of no use whatever in securing this
summers hats, The new: pin meas
ures ten inchesafrom tip to. handle and
is made of an > inhexible l1netalsto
pierce the heavy straws. Plain gold
heads, either round or oval in form,
are seen on many of the new pins, al
though some of the more expensive
designs are set with jewels
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1904-09-04

she saw inside the bronze, and when
the sanlural told her it was her own
tace she was ashamed to ask any
more questions and hastily put her
present away, carefully wrapped in a
bag OF sllk-for it was very. 1nys-
ferrous thing-and she kept it hidden
from sight for, many years.
Now, when she was about, to die
she called her daughter to. her and
gave her the mirror, saying that. each
day at. morning and at evening, she
.lqiust look in the mirror and. you will
see me said the mother. 30 not
grieve..' Then She died.
And afterward, ever morning and
every evening the daugl-te ter looked
into the mirror of bronze, and she
did not know that she aw there the
reflection of her. own face, but she
thought it was the mother, come back
again 'ftoe.talk to. her. And for, hours
she would talk to the; shadow. having
always the hope of meeting the moth
er again. though the mother did not
speak; And she priced this mirror
more than all in. the world, excepting
only her father and her own little
daughter To her, when She died, she
gave the mirror, telling her, as had
been toldl..fn the beginning, that the
little one should look each day in the
morning and in the evening into the
mirror and see her-her mother, who
was, going, by. the grace of IBuddha,
to join that other mother under the
cherry blossoms
AT last one day. the father of the
little girl noticed her talking to the
image in the mirror He thought it
a very strange thing and asked her
the reason, whereupon she told him
all. Then said the samurai, he
thought it very piteous, and his eyes
grew dark with tears.
The Captain gazed for a long time
into the polished surface of the
bronze. Sometimes !. I think" he
said, "that the souls of those beauti-
full Japanese women come back to
look at me from this mirror. Some
times the images which come before
me grow very real | like to think
that the. souls, of many mothers lie
behind, this wonderful surface. The
present is the shadow of the past and
we Come pretty near verify when we
find the faith that made the little
girl speak, to her, mothers very soul
while seeing. only the image of her
own face.n
Then the Captain wrapped the little
mirror tenderly in its silk case and
spoke no more.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1904-09-04
Royal Jewels in New York.


Many jewels owned by New York
women are interesting for the reason
that they have some time belonged to
Among Mrs. Astor's collection Of
rings is the noted Napoleon ring, as
it is. called. 1t, belonged to Napoleon
L. and represents lily in diamonds,
with drops of dew upon the petals.
The dewdrops are pearls. Mrs. As
tors famous bowknot of diamonds
was bought at the sale of the French
crown jewels
PHILIPPE Egalite's sapphire ring,
purchased at the Hope sale in Lon
don for several thousand dollars, was
in the collection of the late Mrs. All
gust Belmont Mrs. Bradley Martins
necklace of rubies formerly belonged
to Marie Antoinette. A good share
of the late Queen Isabella's jewels,
sold to pay that royal lady's debts,
were bought by Mrs Leland Stan
ford. One set in this collection has
tiara, necklace, bracelet, brooch and
rings to match Mrs Stanford's rose
pink diamond necklace is perhaps I'M
surpassed. She has also a blue-tint
diamond collar; these stones, the
rarest of all diamonds, emit a blue
or violet radiance.
The only black diamond necklace in
this country, or England, belongs to
Mrs. Celia Wallace, of Chicago. She
spent fifteen years collecting the
stones. The gems are set with white
diamonds-one an Indian stone, for
which $4,000 was paid. A black dia-
mond is as jetty as piece of coal,
perfectly transparent, and with all the
lustre of a white diamond. Black
diamonds are the mourning stones of
the Russian court.
One of the most perfect emeralds in
the world is the central stone of
diamond necklace owned by a New
York lady; the emerald was once a
jewel in the crown of Shah of Per
STA. Mrs Arthur Paget inherited from
her mother, Mrs Paran Stevens,
wonderful ring wllichNonce belonged
to a member of a Turkish harem.
There is an intricate band woven of
fine silver. The setting is diamond
lizard; in the tail is spring, which,
when touched, opens the mouth of the
lizard, disclosing the little animals
throat mass of rubies and dia-
monds.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1904-09-04
EASILY COOKED DINNER DISHES
BY MADAME DE RYTHER.

Then they are carefully put up in
paper bags of several thicknesses,
sealed and labeled ready for market.
Take from the package the required
quantity of vegetables, put them in a
saucepan, pour enough cold water
over them to cover them to the
depth, of two inches, set the sauce
pan over a slow fire and let the
vegetables simmer gently till quite
soft. Then add the required amount
of beef extract, first dissolving it in
boiling water. Add for seasoning a
little Worcestershire sauce, sugges-
ton of sherry, very little sugar, a
palatable amount of salt and pepper,
and you have light, nutritious soup
which cannot be excelled.
In selecting fish for light house
keeping dinner it is better, if boiled
fish is desired, to have thick piece
cut from the halibut, the salmon Or
the Goldfish. These fish have so little
bone and are SO compact and meaty
that small piece weighs more than
whole fish like bass, sheepshead,
red snapper and other fish that are
much used for boiling
For broiling or for PANIED fish for
light housekeeping, there are fresh
,1nackerel, weakfsh, kingfish, porgies,
small founders and huke, small blue
fish, tommy Gods. and many other va
rieties which are quickly and easily
cooked.
Other dishes which suggest them
selves are broiled steaks and chops;
chicken and squad, either broiled. or
cooked in casserol.; broiled
shoulder of lamb; a dainty French
stew made of the rack of lamb, toma-
toes, onions, green peas, and, with or
without potatoes, chicken fricasseed
and chicken fried.
In vegetables there are corn frit-
tiers, caulifiower, egg plant, corn in
the ear, potatoes boiled, fried, cream
ed or roasted; boiled rice, green peas
string beans, lima beans, onions and
many others that require little work
in preparing.
Then there comes the salad This
is the easiest of all things to prepare
as it requires no cooking, and the
scope of salads is almost limitless
The light housekeeper may have Gu
cumbers, onions, tomatoes, water
cress, chicory, romaine, escarole, en-
dive, lettuce, potato salad, fruit SALAD
or dozens of others that may be fan
cied
| A good dinner may be served with
Just light soup, salad with cheese
plenty of bread and butter and cul
of black coffee.
/ AS to desserts there is large va
riety that may be easily prepared
! lily made than ice cream.
JULIE DE RYTHER.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1904-09-04

manded Warsh1p that took
~ part in the battle of the Yalu
in the war between China and
Japan, is retired now, and lives at a
club where he is wont to tell the
stories he came TO know while he
was serving the Mikado. Not often
does he fall into the mood, but when
he does he seems to adopt the mental
attitude Of the people of whom he
talks. 1t was when in this mood one
day that he told the story of "The
Mirror of the Mother
"You must know" he said, ''that
the mirror is sacred thing in Japan
they do not have the atrocious look
Eyeglasses of western manufacture
there, but bronzes of marvellous work
manship-so." Here the Captain took
from his pocket tablet of bronze
wrapped in silk bag. Only one side
was polished, but it was polished won
derfully, and reflected clearly the
faces of his friends as they examined
it. On the back were carved dragon
flies and flowers, cherry blossoms and
ship, all marvelously wrought.
That" continued the Captain, SIS
a real Japanese mirror, and it was
given to me at Matsuyama by samu
raj whom | came to know and love-
1t was given to him by his mother,
and it had been given to her by her
mother, and through many generations
it had passed from mother to daugh-
ter. Now, my friend had no children,
and when he fell sick after the wounds
he received in the battle of the Yalu
and was. about to die he gave this
mirror to me and he told me the story
of. it. 1t is written in the Japanese,
you must understand, that the mirror
IS the soul of woman, and that it
reflects her joys-yes, and her sor-
rows.and that the shape of the mir
ror is the shape of the moon, and the
moon in Japan is held to be the most
beautiful thing in all the world-like
the soul of the mother.
Long ago, in the province of
Echigo, there lived samurai and his
wife, and they had daughter. Their
names have been quite forgotten, but
| the daughter was beautiful woman
as was her mother before her-and
she it was who gave this mirror to her
daughter in the forgotten times at
Nldlsuydiiid III the province VI ECHlSo.
Upon certain day the samurai
went to Yeddo as retainer in the train
of the lord of Echigo. When he came
again to his home he brought gifts
to his wife and to his little daughter
For the daughter there were sweet
things and doll, and for the mother
there was mirror of bronze, and this
was the first mirror ever brought to
Matsuyama Then che wife, not know
ing the use of mirrors, asked the
samurai whose pretty, smiling face
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1904-09-04
The Disappointment of a Princess.

Among the women of royal blood
who have visited this country recently
was Princess Abbas Hahn, sister of
the Khedive of Egypt, with her hus-
band. She arrived very quietly in New
Y ork and waited on board the vessel
until all the curious throng had de-
parted. A representative of the State
Department was at the pier@to greet
her, and when asked BY this gentle
man where she expected to stop, the
little woman replied that her secretary
had the card of a hotel which had been
recommended to. them by Egyptian
friends who had travelled in America.
The secretary produced the card,
which proved to be that of the Wind
sor, whose burning in 1890 was a ,holo-
caust of more than national horror.
1t took some time to explain. to the.
travellers that the old Windsor hotel
was no more, but they were finally
taken to one of the fashionable hostel
ries of the day.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1904-09-04


why the economical girl should not
make a canvass of the contents of her
shoe box on her return to, town. A
woman's shoe bill can be materially
reduced by giving to her footwear the
same attention which she accords to
her ribbon and veil boxes. If shoes
Of good quality are purchased, their
life can be doubled by good care.
Summer shoes should be laid away
as carefully as winter furs. Russet
and black shoes should be thoroughly
cleaned, then oiled, but not polished.
They should be set away on trees, or
II their owner. cannot afford a number
OF wooden trees, she can stuff the
shoes with tissue paper or cotton.
Physicians claim-and they are back
ed by shoemakers-that no girl should
wear low shoes the year around, as
the tendency is to make the ankle
large, and the first of October should
find the girl wearing walking boots
on the street. If a girl clings to her
low shoes,for early fall, she can match
them in CATERS of light weight, which
gives her foot a neat, trim look
Patent leather shoes should always
be put away on trees and oiled with
a dressing which comes especially to
keep them soft. White shoes should
never be put away in soiled condi-
ton. A paste for cleaning white
shoesscan be bought at any shoe shop
or department store for twenty-five
cents a bottle, and stains are much
more easily removed now than after
the shoes have stood for five or six
months. After the white shoes are
cleaned and stuffed with cotton or
paper, they should ne packed away in
blue tissue paper. Any girl who has
tried this method of packing awav
summer shoes in a neat, Clearly CON
dition, will testify to the comfort that
comes on opening her box at the first
call for summer shoes the next season.
Many a girl discards her slippers,
which have done. service at the sum
mer hops, when they can really be
put to further use. House wear is
harder on shoes than street wear, and
the particular girl always keeps on
hand fair array of house slippers.
Fancy slippers which are not quite
fresh enough for party use can be
utilized for house wear If the heels
are too high, the shoemaker will take
off layer or so. The slippers are
then polished, and prim little bow
across the instep, with an inexpensive
buckle, will give a pair of house shoes
at a cost OF not more than fifty cents.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1904-09-04

ILL iiSilI llOhSShSSpCl llluSl
learn to compose the dinner
menu of those foods which
do not have to be roasted or
baked There is almost an endless
variety of dishes that may; be cooked
without the tedious process of roast
ing.
In big and even in small towns the
housekeeper can always buy bread
which, as rule, is far better than
can be made at home. Dinner rolls,
mullins and biscuits fine and light,
which are indispensable with certain
dinner dishes, can also be purchased
Many sorts of soups may be made
by those who are doing light house
keeping, but as most soups require
both time and careful attention in
their preparation, it is better'to choose
those that are easily and quickly pre-
pared, and for which soup meat and a
lot of vegetables do not have to be
bought. =.
Among soups that are easily made
are clam and oyster soups, than which
there is nothing more ,nourishing
Then there are many other light soups
easy of preparation, such as onion,
cream of tomato, cream of asparagus,
potato, cream of caulihower. and any
little soup that may be made fromsthe
bits of meat, poultry and vegetables
left over from the day before.
A cup of hot .consomme IS always a
delightful precursor to dinner. 1t
may be easily made in five minutes,
either from extract sof beef, of which
there are many brands put up in
little earthen jars -or in small cap
sules. All the housekeeper has to dc
is to put a capsule in cup, pour boil
ing water over it, let it dissolve, then
season with salt and pepper, and serve
If the extract from a jar,is used, put
as much as is required in "a saucepan
pour boiling water over it, season
with a little extract of onion, which
comes in small bottles. add little
celery salt, season with salt and pep
per and keep the, consommee hot til
ready to serve A few .croutons may
: be. added before serving:
A delicious vegetable soup or Z
dainty Julienne soup may be made
with any of these extracts by. follow
ing these directions: 49,
Either buy fresh vegetables ane
prepare them yourself, or get the driee
shredded vegetables put up for Jul
ienne soups, which may be obtained
at any frst-class dealer in imported
delicacies. These vegetables are pre-
pared and packed in China, Franc,
and Italy They are carefully select
ed, shredded and dried or evaporatet
as fruits are done in this country
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1904-09-04
TOTHING appalls the woman
i of moderate means so com
Y pletely as the prophesy that


season. And this is the prophesy
that halls from fashions centers to-
day.
In truth, the problem is a serious
one for the woman who can afford to
buy only one really smart frock, for
velvet is hard fabric to keep clean.
1t resents touch of water and, unless
of the best quality, it quickly loses
its color and lustre.
For many generations, in fact for
two centuries, it has been held that the
Lyons silk-back was the one depend
able member of the velvet family, on
the grounds of suppleness and its per-
manent color. From four to seven
dollars yard has been paid by the
over-particular woman for the mate
rial in her velvet gown, and Lyons
velvet at its widest is not more than
from twenty-five to twenty-five inches
But for the past few years there has
appeared upon the market a German
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1904-09-04
Bracelets Coming in Again.

Bracelets are once more coming
into vogue, fact probably, due to.
the return of the elbow sleeve for
house gowns of all sorts.t Aecharm
bracelet is the latest fad, and tits hung
with marvellous little replicas of ia
nous statuary, animals, insects in
precious stones, and nlummies, pre-
sumably bringers of good luck.