The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-11-12

| hear. The companion had given her
self up, mind and face to the soothing
process of Dreaming and massage, and
Veronica, while being anointed and
| sprayed and patted, was dreaming-of
| Westbury, possibly, and of g. man of
thirty-five in a pink coat.-New York
| Sun.
''The art of picture dressing would
| be studied far more did women but
know how their beauty is enhanced
by fitting frame, says the Coming
Mode. "Our modern methods of dress
are by. no means as becoming as we
are led to suppose. Lovely woman is
no longer the central figure. The eye
is distracted by the thousand and one
her look smart We must all have
noticed how, at fancy dress ball,
| some woman we never thought pretty
suddenly assumes the Sceptre of beau
ty and astonishes everyone by the GU
rious metamorphosis she has under
gone.
"She has only found her proper
frame and she haromnizes with her
raiments- A careful study OF the yarl-
Gus elements that composed the dress
at a different period may prove use
full.
''In the time of Louis XIV. and Louis
XVI. of France We have in the, first
instance the dainty and manieree
graees of the beauties painted by Lam
cret and Vatican. They were still
hampered by the pomp in favor at
the court of the grand monarch. Ma
ture was at a discount, even though
fine 1adyes' and noble lords played at
shepherds and shepherdesses in the
| famous Fete Champetres at the Trian-
on. Blue ribbons were tied round the
necks of the hatless lambkins, and the
poor beasties were powdered to make
them look white. But the ceremoni-
Gus courtesy had a charm of its own,
/ - a rrrfN ~
j their voluminous panniers and Wat
teau backs were very becoming. The
note forcee of black appeared In the
guise OF a velvet neck ribbon and
powdered hair was not dressed in the
absurdly high fashion which Marie
Antoinette affected in the reign of
Lois Seize, and the patches gave
'petites marquises' which made them
quite irresistible. For more ceremo-
NOUS functions there were sumptuous
robes of Powered silks. of soft blurred
colors, with lace and coats of brocade
embeIlished with old paste buttons.
The bodices were cut in narrow
square and wreathed in shaded carna-
lions and lace. The elbow sleeves had
shoes boosted of red heels. Muffs
were in vogue for evening wear. When
the hair dressing became more elabo-
rate and feathers and flowers were
sticks were affected by the beaux of
the court. These were provided with
loops of ribbon to allow of their be-
ing hung upon the wrist Wreaths or
rose pompons were then worn in the
hair. The fashionable colOrS were
feuille morte, prune, puce and celadon
green, with touches of Chinese pink
and pale blue, but chintz and floral de
signs prevailed.
1.-THE beautiful Austrian made the
reign of Louis Seize memorable for
magnificence in dress. The pastoral
simplicity of the Petit Trianon, where
a queen and her ladies played at be
ing milkmaids, gave fair field for
dainty disguise in rustic and ruinous
simplicity. From Marie Antoinette we
get the picturesque rose crowned hats,
the muslin fichus and the love of those
pearls that cost her SO dear. Here
was, indeed, a reign of roses-roses
all the way to the Scanol1.
The magnificent silk or satin court
they opened over underdresses of lace
whose founces were headed and fes-
TONED with shaded roses.
years ago I held in my hands the
famous yellow diamonds, the 'Brigno- |
let's that once encircled the queens |
slender neck, and the chandelier drop !
earrings which have met with such a |
checkered career.
marie Antoinette loved the rather |
stiff pointed bodices with Stomachers |
and the self-same little gra 1uated |
bows that now trim our 1904 bodices |
Her favorite colors were blendinKs CT |
turquoise blue and pink and that fresh |
that enhanced the bril-
liancy of her coloring. Another favor
lite color was golden fawn, called che
veux de la Refine |
Large be-plumed Gainsborough |
hats were set in fashion by the queen
and her friend, the lovely Princess de
and the people who looked
on, starving, at the display of extrava-
gance grew wildly rebellious.
Toward the end of the reign of
Louis Seize fashions altered and So
bered down. Puce and feuil1e morte
dresses were worn with 'casquins' or I
coates of black satin, with bold re-
vers and soft wide sashes wound /
round the waist and tied on the left
side. The hats were still large and
heplumed. but the hair had only a
of powder and was tied SIM
ply In a queue with a black ribbon.
"When the beautiful Mime. Recam-
Ter and Tallien held sway in the City
of Light dress assumed a very differ
emit aspect. The desire of the beauties
was to appear as 'devetue as posi-
BILE, and they sought their inspirations
In matters sartorial from the Greek
The very thinnest of mater
iaIs were used, and these were gum
med to the skin; this last detail has
been authenticated. The skirts were
slit on one side. and a more than gen.
erous allowance of sandalled shoe and
ankle were exhibited.
VERY quaint were the Empire coat