New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1904-01-04

December IS.
All indications point 10 increase in elaborate
ness IN winter gowns for 1901 The new models in
ciolh and velvet are complicated to a degree but
"SiUe from minor changes in trimmings and new
SUGGESTIONS as 10 belt or cuffs there notice
abe original designs The fashions until the sum-
rner goods come in are definitely settled
There was such marked change this autumn in
sleeves and vouminous skirts that it viii be some
'line before the fashion writer will have anything
or a startling nature TO record. IL usually takes a
year TO impose new fashion on wouankfnd This
IS true even ii large city like Paris OF course
me very large skirts and the baggy coats were
worn by modish women months ago and were de-
Scfloed IN detail in all journals devoted fashions
but these extreme features are not even now gen
eraiy worn Spring will hardly see the present
ideas exaggerated. but will undoubtedly find them
more general
The success OF a fashion depends always on one
thlng; 1t must be made generally becoming And
TINS Is the struggle that the couturfers have had and
still have with these vOIuminous effects The die
tate went out that skirts be full and all coats
blouse" over belt, two points rather difficult 10
accommodate TO the average figure. There are two
means TO accomplish the success Of so difficult a
IaShion-hrst, by repetition accustom the eye to
change in the silhouette and second TO adjust
the gown so carefully that it may be made gener-
ally becoming
The majority Of walking suits. whether the skirt
be long or short, are made with blouse coat fall
Ing over the belt in the back well in the front
But the belts carefully fitted and shaped! on
certain figure the narrow belt is best on another
high belt high belt crushed into folds is the
only becoming one, for the line under the is
most important. On short WASTED figure the high
belt in the back is generally best as it helps to the
waist line. Nothing is more mOdish with street
suits than leather belts. and nothing can made
more becoming when properly arranged. The in
telligent tailor does away the cloth belt and
stitches his coat directly TO the leather belt 1t
may be crushed in the back (for the leather is as
pliable as a rbbon) under buttons ornament.
and in front it is pulled through a buckle This
worn over the cloth. and under such conditions the
leather is easily fastened down the skirt in
front
The round. deep collars that have been so
long are made more becoming by slashings into
points or by edge that dips down in front and IN
the back. The little round eInpiecements which
finish the throat OF so many Jackets now some
times extended in points that may over the tops
OF the sleeves. A great many Of the pelertneS made
of the Same STUFF the gowns are longer in front
than in the back and finished with fringe that half
conceals the lines OF the figure
PaQuin Is making a feature of touch OF bright
velvet his elaborate cloth costumes Old pink
and tomato red two shades generally used in
this connection. \ visiting OF white cloth
has blouse coat made with little revers Of old
pink velvet, These meet and the velvet continues
in a narrow fold down each side Of the opening
There Is. too narrow crushed belt OF the velvet
There is empiecement of white lace and the
big sleeves gather into little lace pus. with lace
rufles at wrists. The coat is trimmed by
Up and down lines Of broad white braid held by
big white Inaccaroons. The skirt falls in full nat
uraI folds from the waist. and Is trimmed IN cir
cular fashion with three bands Of the braid and
uaccaroon5 at intervals. On the skirt the braid
is eight ten inches wide.
A growing fashion is that Of the inside vest or