davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-01-09

The inner sleeves and chemisette were of
handsome lace. Another perfectly lovely
blouse was of pastel green chiffon velours
The shoulder trimming was a triple cape
edged with chinchilla the same fur going
down the front on each side of a beautiful
old lace vest formed of plated frills Of
cream chiffon. The sleeves turned back
above the elbow with large cavalier cuffs
edged with fur. from which hung cream
chiffon friiis. To be worn with this blouse
was a skirt of green cloth cut very plain.
with an applique of the pastel green velours
like the blouse material and narrow edg-
ing of chinchilla on the fiounce at the hem.
The waist was swathed with a green kid
band. A large green silk beaver hat caught
up at one side with a sweeping shaded
green plume was the hat designed for this
toilet
Two New Skirts.
The signs Of the times indicate that the
spring skirts will be cut in two new ways.
One skirt which bids fair to be a winner
in the thin material class is the short, full.
round affair in which our grandmothers
looked so stunning. This style is very good
made up in muslin. net or challie. Some of
these round skirts will be shirred in cords
at the waist line. while others are TO be
tucked down the front and sides in fine
tucks in a fan shape, the fullness there
from forming a foot ruff1e.
For dresser wear and in heavier fabrics
the new skirt fits close to the knee, either
DelnS cut pam OF ldlu III SHlaii plaltS. IN
this design the flare is accomplished by
means of setting in around the skirt little
fans of the material. For walking skirts
this idea is particularly good, as it prevents
the da bling in at the feet which is fail
ure of the trotting skirt.
The cravat is still an important note on
tailor-made frocks over here and the neck
arrangement of cream muslin or chiffon
dotted with black is the chic thing at pres
ent. A severer style of trimming the neck
is with a high collar and cravat edged with
gold or silver applique. Many of these era
watts show little frills like those seen in pic
lures of old men wearing ruffied shirts,
while others have in the middle a wide
plat. on which are placed odd buttons or
studs.
Easy to Copy.
I have just thought of a dainty evening
dress for young girl which a celebrated
house has turned out. but which could be
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-01-09
The New Skirt.

La Mode is very emphatic about the new
skirt She utterly declines to couutenance
any tentativeness in it's regard. She has
laid down her seasons laws, and they are.
as usual, autocratic in the extreme. The
general outline is to preserve a certain
symmetry and shapeliness about the hips,
together with an equally symmetrical flare
out at the hem. This appearance is brought
about by many clever devices, notably
plaits. tucks and many cores, either set
straight into the waist or arranged on yoke
bands, with or without front panel. In
any case the plaits or tucks are stitched
fat and pressed heavily to somewhere about
the region of the knees and then allowed
their liberal flow at the base.
A somewhat common fault, and one, be 1t
observed, to be strenuousIy avoided is the
stitching of these plaits too deep npped
in appearance below the bend of the knees
is not at all desirable, and it is by just
and right proportion that true modistic in
telligence is attained.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-01-09


hair to be lost by means of ammonia. A
pinch of borax dissolved in half glass OF
warm water may be used TO rub into the
scalp before the monthly shampoo.
You should be able to prevent badness
by means of the following ointment: Fiji
teen grains extract yellow Peruvian bark y
grains extract rhatany root drains each
of extract burdock root and oil of nutmeg
(fxed). 10 grains camphor dissolved with
spirits of wfne), L ounce olive oil. . ounces
beef marrow, y dram citron juice. Scent
with dash of aromatic essential oil and
mix all ingredients until an ointment Is
produced. Rub the ointment into the scalp
every night for week or So then lessen
the frequency by degrees. Keep up the
massage.
A little girls hair can be kept In curl by
the very simple preparation of water in
which ounce seeds have been boiled. It Is
as harmless as anything to be found. 1t II
safer than bottled preparations, whose in
gradients you don't know. Wet the hair in
the ounce water just before you curl IL
over your finger, and you will find that the
curl remains.
I cannot prescribe for the pimples and
blackheads separately, as they are a result
of one and the same thing-clogged pores
The action of the skin must be stimulated
1t must be helped in it's natural course of
throwing off refuse matter. In the first
place. keep yourself in the best possible
general health by exercise, rest, cold baths
every morning and warm baths with soap
once a week. Eat plenty of acid fruits.
Cranberries, apples, oranges and grape
fruit are to be had at this season, and are
all beneficial. Lemonade gives variety. Do
not try complexion brush at present for
your skin Is probably in a tender condition,
but give the face a hot bath every night.
using the best CASTLE soap. II the pimples
break out with renewed vigor do not be
alarmed. They are the successors of the
blackheads, and it is thus that the black
heads force their way out.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-01-09

natural oil. The alcohol should give way
to the cold water as soon as the Desired
huffiness Is established.
A Caution, Too.
Beware the hairdresser's trick of building
out the hair by means of combing the under
part backward. 1t huffs 1t out and causes
Ii to look more than IL really Is but at the
same time II tangies the hair, and tangles
mean breaking when you comb. II you can
comb gently and slowly. beginning at
the ends. as to avoid all breaking. then IL
is safe for you to "frizzle" the hair In this
fashion. Otherwise depend upon a pompa-
dour frame.
Do not yield to the temptation to wash
the hair often for the sake of making IL
fluffy. Many women are shampooing every
week This is too much of a good thing.
The cold water massage and drying are
sufficient for hair of the natural oiliness,
with thorough shampoo once month.
Do not shampoo with ammonia, no matter
how oily your hair may be. 1t deadens II
and causes it's color to become dun. l have
known all of the natural golden CLINT In
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-01-09

Line StVcIc oCylS u JILL PooouA'
pull a coquettish little curl of natures
making down upon her forehead DeioW the
high puff
A tiny fluff of these short curls is the
saving grace of many pompadour. A
high forehead can sometimes wear a high
puff if the little curlS be brought down to
hide the great expanse of brainy brow. 1t
might as well be accepted as one OF the
tragedies of woman that she has to make
business of hiding superf1uous brains where
ever they are inclined to make themselves
SEEN If a few simple and fetching little
curls will do it, then cultivate the curis.
They should be worn only when the POM
padour is a wavy one. for there Is Some-
thing absurd about the effect Of perfectly
straight hair in the pompadour and curls
below it. If they have to be artificial kinks,
then be at least consistent about them and
give as good an imitation of curly hair all
over as you can.
Other Ways to Follow.
The dropping pompadour, falling far over
the forehead, is artistic and becoming to
long face or high forehead. 1t is softer,
less severely classical than the other. In
spite of the predominance of the narrow,
high outline, women who have bilowlng
hair continue to wear 1t dropping almost
over the eyes If you have an abundance of
hair you build it up to the popular
height and save some to droop besides
Most faces are prettier for a part in this
low hair, either on one side or in the mid
die. The wide face has always taken kind
~ to the narrowing effect of the middle
part. and even the conventional pompadour
can be brushed into this outline.
The Clip or scallop is still in favor. 1t
is a dashing touch and makes a pompadour
possible to any one. The lines of your in
diyidual face must determine where this IS
to be placed. 1t is usually on one side;
now and then narrow face is improved by
having the dip or hair where the little girls
curl was-right in the middle of the fore
head Another thing to be considered Is
the outline of the hat. If it Tits to one
side the hair should follow its line. which
is usually down on the right and up on the
left.
To keep the hair fluffy, as the style de-
mands. you may wash the front locks every
other week with CASTLE soap and fan them
dry. If your hair is oily massage with al
cohol three times week. The other four
days you may massage with cold water and
dry in the sun. So the hair will be kept as
dry as is healthy without harm TO the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-01-09
INDIVIDUAL STYLES
EACH WOMAN DEMANDS A SHAPE
OF HER OWN.
The Latest Advice as to Their Erec-
ton and Hints on Care
of the Hair.

Written for The Evening Star by Katherine Morton.
The pompadour might as well be ac
opted with the philosophy that declares
what it is. Plenty of women have pro-
tested against ii ever since the time. half
decade ago, when Dame Fashion de-
clared 1t to be derigeur. For year or so
previous hair had been in one of those
transition stages that come between eras
of positive styles. and during that time
women had been dressing their hair in any
number of ways according to individual
taste. Some chung to the demure part and
the Psyche knot, others stepped in advance
of the procession and adopted the huge
puff ahead of time But somewhere in
1898 or 1893 the pompadour suddenly found
itself the only permissible style. and the
women who don't like it have shown re-
bellious moods ever since
Nowadays rumors floating about to
the effect that it is vanishing style-that
the virginia. part, the zone moonbeam from
the forehead to the crown is again to
appear. But the fact remains that the
pompadour is still with US. and that 1t is
the uniform hair dressing for women of
fashion. Whether the back hair be worn
high or low, the puff remains. So long as
it does, woman might as well make the
best of 1t.
Artists have long preached the doctrine
that every woman should wear her hair
as suits the INES OF hef own race ana lflS
is entirely true from an artistic STANDPOINT.
But some would rather be stylish than
artistic-perhaps it is the safest for those of
us who were not endowed with Cupid
bow mouth and a Grecian nose. If you
have chosen; if you have decided that it
does not pay to cling to the Psyche which
becomes you while the rest of the world
coils its hair on top, then you must make
the prevailing fashion adapt itself to your
needs.
What Can Re Done
1t can be done although it takes a great
deal of study. There are infinite variations
Of any one style You can make them
without departing far enough from the con-
ventional outline to be called anything but
conventional yourself. A single tweak will
reform the pompadour which has failed to
show you at your best.
In the first place. it is of itself a pretty
style. That is why women have chung to it
for so many years. 1t allows the hair to be
puffed and waved and shown to the best
possible advantage, which the quaint little
part and side combs never did. In their
period it made no difference if a woman
had the most adorable natural curls in the
world--they had to be plaStered down to
suit the danes stern ruling
The first rule of the pompadour is, don't
wear rat. Don't wears any prop for the
hair If you can avoid it. Better keep the
hair fluffy and let it puff itself. The tor
toise shell or celluloid frames are better
than a rat. Having the hair in the best
pompadour as becoming any hair dress
ing can be.
You know that an artist in sketching often
finds that a mere line one that seems of
no Importance to the amateur, changes an
entire picture, makes over an entire face.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-01-09


In spite of the efforts of Jupiter Pluvius to
make uncomfortable the visit Of the Eng
iish parliamentary delegates and their wives
and daughters, Paris succeeded in being very
festive during their stay even under
downpour of rain For the last week the
city has been en- fete entertaining these
distinguished visitors. The majority of
President Loubet's guests. were familiar
with the gay capital in all her moods and
aspects. so it really made little difference
IL it wasn't Paris when spring unlocks the
flowers"
The most charming and brilliant of the
entertainments was the fete given at the
Automobile Club. This affair was perfect
in every way cordial and informal, with
all the charm of a reception in Hospital
BILE private house Nine. Loubet, who re-
ceived the guests, was exquisitely gowned
in frock of Irish lace over white satin.
and her only ornament was quaint orien-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-01-09
Winter House Plants.
From Harper's Bazaar.

From Harper's Bazaar
With smattering of floral knowledge.
most people feel that without a south VIM
dow and deluge of sunlight it is impossi-
BILE to grow plants with any degree of sue
cess Experienced growers will not agree
to this, for while they VIII admit that the
light and sun through south window are
very desirable, they are quite willing to
place their floral favorites in any avaiia be
window. provided there is fair amount OF
light obtainable. 1t is possible to do with,
out sunshine for long time in the plant
window, but good supply of clear day
light is essential.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-01-09


ends are usually knotted and finished with
a silk fringe.
Shell Hair Pins.
The Parisienne is wearing all sorts OF
fancy tortoise shell pins in her hair. and
when these handsome shell ornaments
match the color of the hair they are an at
tractive addition to the couture.
At the opera the other evening leader
of the American set who has been in mourn
ing short while was seen in the stalls
wearing an exquisite creation of dlapha-
nous black The bodice seemed to be made
of a succession of large, dull black beads
strings of which held the low hanging
sleeves In her hair were the new tortoise
shell pins These are the only adornments
permitted to be worn with the habilimentS
of woe.
Speaking of the hair the low coiffure Is
the newest mode in Paris. The hair Us
arranged loosely. brushed back at the sides
from the face and the dressing is continued
from the top of the head to the neck,
We women are becoming very sensible
where the couture Is concerned. ana reanze
that like the full skirt it is a matter which
must be regulated by the individuality OF
the wearer.
To Keep Forward.
There is no rest for the fashionably at
tired and the strenuousness of clothes Is
appalling We no sooner begin to settle
down. or rather move around and enjoy
our winter wardrobe. than it is time to
be up and doing on the spring toilet.
There is a shop here in Paris that would
cause even the most misery person to wish
to part with her money. 1 refer to the fa-
nous salon of M. Gustave Beers. His sales
room looks like an apartment IN a mansion
The staircase resembles a fine old baronial
hall, and the fitting rooms are models of
comfort and convenience.
Among the lovely things displayed at this
shop was a blouse for casino or table d'hote
wear 1t was of white accordion plated
chiffon trimmed with narrow edge of fur.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-01-09
Something Useful to Know.

When baking pies. either fruit or meat,
by placing the pie In tin with a little cold
water 1t will save the strip or gravy from
boiling out. A little water sprinkled on top
of fruit pies and little dry. fine sugar will
give the pastry pretty brown appearance.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-01-09

So you will find that mere touch will do
as much when you are busy before your
mirror
Just now the tendency is to wear the hair
brushed UP from the ears and towering
tremendously top. This is a change
from the first pompadour. which was an
even oval about the forehead from temple
to temple. Tn general. if you wish to be
conventional, you must follow the change;
but it may be modified to suit your case.
A very long face cannot risk one of the
highest pompadours. The length of the lines
are increased by the tower above, and the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-01-09

Choliy Lateboy--"Do you know; Miss
Sharp. that music quite carries me away
Miss Sharp-..Why. isn't that lovely. DO
let me play for you" Chicago News
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-01-09

Shell Hair Pins.

, prettily over the hips. At the back the
ends are usually knotted and finished with
The morning Astorian. [volume] (Astoria, Oregon) 1899-1930, 1904-05-22
Narrow Escape
From Death
Young Fisherman Fell From
Boat and Almost Net Watery
Grave Yesterday.

Frank Clarkson. young man who
recently came to the Pacific coast from
Indiana narrowly escaped death by
drowning out near the bar yesterday
afternoon
Clarkson, as he himself tells. first
came frcm the east TO Portland. Be-
ing unable to get work at once. he
drifted TO Astoria, and Immediately
made friends with a fisherman who
originally came from the same county
In Indiana as did clarkson. The Ash
erman invited Clarkson to remain with
him and learn the business and Clark
son accepted his offer. He has been aid
ing the fisherman but little over a
week.
Yesterday morning they went out,
as usual. About noon, while making a
haul. II happened that clarkson stepped
to the bow of the boat for some pur-
pose. trod on the tail OF a hsh tha'
had been taken earlier in the day
slipped and lurched forward. He
grasped for the side OF the boat. missed
| IT, lost his balance and plunged over the
side into the river. Clarkson had pre-
viously told his fisherman friend. while
discussing the advisabllity of going Into
the fishing business, that he could not
swim, and as he disappeared below the
waves the fisherman prepared to fol-
low. He grasped Clarkson as he came
up for the second time, and called fo'
help. Others of the craft who hap
pened to be near at once fastened to
the spot and between them they man
aged to get Clarkson and his rescuer
in the boat. Clarkson was revived ~
short time and was nervy enough to
continue the days fishing.
The morning Astorian. [volume] (Astoria, Oregon) 1899-1930, 1904-05-22
Marine Notes.

The steamer Whittier departed yes
terday morning for San Francisco.
The steamer Grace Dollar departed
yesterday for San Francisco with
cargo of cordwood.
The schooner Manila Is on the way
down the river with a cargo OF ium'
Der. She goes to San Pedro.
The steamer Elmore arrived yes
terday from Tillamook. She brought
a full cargo of dairy produce.
The British bark Invermay has COM
pleted her lumber cargo for Mollendo
Peru. She takes 100000 feet.
The schooners William Renton and
Falcon, both with lumber cargoes from
the Huem mill, were towed to sea yes
terday.
The vosburg departs today for TIL
lamok to tow the schooner Volant tc
sea. She will proceed then to Nehalen
and secure another raft Of logs fol
Astoria.
The morning Astorian. [volume] (Astoria, Oregon) 1899-1930, 1904-05-22
indications Are Favorable for I'm.
provement in Grain Charters
at Coast Ports.
SHlpoWNERS ARE IN C0MBlNE
Have introduced French Boun.
ty Farmers to Pool and viii
Advance Prices-Other
Marine Happenings.

For several months past charters
have been so low that shipowners have
permitted their vessels TO remain idle
RATHER than accept the prices Offering.
Recently one Of the French vessels
took charter at Portland for 15 shil-
lings, the lowest on record. During the
past few weeks. however. rates have
increased, and the charter market has
generally shown improvement.
Wonder is expressed that the French
vessels accept such low rates, but
they are all bounty earners and there
fore able to do business on basis low
er than ships of other nationality can
operate. The bounty makes up the diff
ference for them, and gives them the
bulge on the situation. when they lie
idle the bounty ceases, so their owners
keep them on the move. which accounts
for the acceptance Of rate OF 10 shil-
lings a ton.
The better tone of the market at the
present time Is the result OF the COM
bination OF shipowners. Not long since
the International Association Of Ship
owners was formed. having for Its OBJ
ject the protection of the interests OF
the firms engaged in the carrying busi-
ness. This association induced many
of the French firms to come in. After
the organization the matter OF char
ters was taken up and figure settled
upon. The result was not Immediately
felt. but the market is gradually i'm
proving under the new order OF things,
/ The British ship Rajore and the shir
Elfreida, now in port, are under char
ter to carry grain. but will be held fol-
next seasons crop. They arrived toe
Ilate TO profit by the associations effort
to raise the price Of charters. The
Frenchmen in port accept whatever Is
offered but the British and Germans
are unable to compete. BY the time
the next crop becomes available the
charter market viii have been strength
ened. and then decent rates will be Of
fering.
The morning Astorian. [volume] (Astoria, Oregon) 1899-1930, 1904-05-22

It's business. The subjects yet to be
passed upon are the election OF four
additional missionary bishops. the re-
suit of the first ballot cor which win
be announced Monday. the election OF
general conference officers for The next
auadrlennium. and action upon other
subjects are as follows. Amusements,
divorces, consideration OF the book
concerns. polygamy temperance and
the relation OF capital and labor.
Dr. ], r. Gray, the chancellor, of
spyracuse IN, " university, was the
eighth and last bishop chosen. Hts
election was effected on the t&th bal-
lot, by vote of t7t of the 500 ballots
cast.
The morning Astorian. [volume] (Astoria, Oregon) 1899-1930, 1904-05-22

We offer One hundred Dollars Re-
ward for any case Of catarrh that can
not be cured by Halls catarrh Cure.
+. J. CHENEY & co.,Toledo, o.
we, the undersigned, have known +.
J. Cheney for the last Is years, and
believe him perfectly honorable In all
business transactions and financially
able to carry out any obligations made
by his firm.
wALDING, KINNAN & MARVIN
Wholesale Druggists, Toledo q
Halls Catarrh Cure is taken inter-
nally, acting directly upon the blood
and mucous surfaces Of the system
Testimonials sent free. Price rs cents
per bottle. Sold by all Druggists.
Take Halls Family Pills for consti-
patton.
The morning Astorian. [volume] (Astoria, Oregon) 1899-1930, 1904-05-22
GOING TO THE FAlR'

What TO % u You Desire Practical
information.
II you contemplate visiting the st.
Louis Exposition, to secure reliable
information as to railroad service, the
lowest rates and the best routes. Also
as to local conditions In st. Louis:
hotels. etc. etc.
II you viii write the undersigned,
stating what information you desire
the same win be promptly furnished.
IL we do not have Il on hand. will se-
cure II for you II possible, and without
any expense to you. Address
r. H. TRUMBuLL.
Comerclal Agent, its Third street.
Portland, Ore
The morning Astorian. [volume] (Astoria, Oregon) 1899-1930, 1904-05-22
plague In Peru.

Lima, Peru, May 21.-Two new cases
of bubonic plague were reported to the
health authorities.
The morning Astorian. [volume] (Astoria, Oregon) 1899-1930, 1904-05-22
SO TIRED

yet you toss about all night, unable to
sleep. It's your nerves that are un-
strung. Weak nerves are starved nerves
and you therefore need something to
nourish and put vim and vitality into
them. For this particular duty Hos
letters Stomach Bitters is highly en-
dorsed by physicians. 1t is also in
valuable in cases Of Poor Appetite, In.
somnia, Indigestion, Dyspepsia, Weak
Kidneys, Rlliousness and Malaria,
Fever and Ague.. We hope you'll try
Il at once.