The Savannah morning news., 1904-05-22

not be aware OF the fact. NeNerthe-
less. it was they who first brought
back the mantilla among their gifts
for sweethearts and sisters, OF course,
the latter tried on their new posses
sions. and in their secret hearts re-
GREETED the memorable law which rele-
gated the use of the mantilla to the
dark-eyed beauties across the seas.
With characteristic alertness where
the interest of beauty is concerted,
they all recognized in this bewitching
style Of head dress the Spanish
maidens keynote to attractiveness.
Straightway. some one argued that, if
Cuba and the Philippines belonged to
America, why not the mantillas also?
In due time the army officers wives
and tourists also returned with tro-
plies from the Islands, and the man
tilla began 10 he worn at parties, re-
ceptions and the theater. Meantime,
the girls who were not so fortunate
as to be the recipients Of genuine man
tillas sought to supply the deficiency.
This resulted in the use of the tlnery
and rare old lace which had been
handed down from auld lang syne. Nor
would the original owners he ashamed
If they could see some of the charm
ing mantillas which have been fash
Toned out Of their cherished belong
ings. And so the mantilla girl Of 1904
is with us in all her fascinating glory.
Some MantiIIa Combinations.
Some of her mantilia combinations
are beautiful and varied effects are
in he nc Those who
have real old Spanish lace have no
difficulty in producing the most fas-
cinatIng mantllas imagna BILE. These
are worn TO suit the individual taste.
but are usually light and fluffy so as
not to interfere with the arrangement
OF the hair A favorite way however,
is TO fzsten the point of lace on the
middle of the hair by a crescent pin or
other ornament The long stole ends
reach to the bottom OF the gown in
front. One end is often pinned TO the
waist by a rich ornament
Some Of the laces' employed for this
purpose are the soft chantilly, point
gauze point venice. Irish crochet
mechlin and even valenciennes. For
the simpler mantillas point d'esprit
chiffon, crepe de chine and liberty silk
are used for the foundation. Narrow
mechlin and ruchng are much used
for edging. Applique laces, ribbon
flowers and fringes are popular for
trimmings.
Accordion PIeated Liberty silk.
An accordion pleated liberty silk
which comes by the yard is especially
desirable for mantillas. 1t is about
sixteen inches wide and is shaded until
il looks like a rainbow The richest
colors seen are purple, red, green,
blue and pink, all Of which look like
shimmering panne when crinkled and
pleated. If purple is the color scheme,
the rainbow effect is obtained by sew
ing four-inch widths of liberty silks
together. joining by a half-inch tuck.
Four distinct colOrs are used, shading
from pale lavender to heliotrope. vio-
let and richest purple. Joined as they
are by an invisible tuck the Colors
blend into one another and harmonic
eXquisitely.
A mantilla recently seen made of
this rainbow silk was marvellous
creation. 1t was in the pastel shades.
and hung in long. graceful folds to the
bottom Of the skirt. A white ruching
of chiffon edged the entire scarf
Nothing daintier could be imagined
than this fluffy, graceful mantilla, one
end of which was thrown over the left
shoulder and caught with a gunmetal
fieur de lis pin set with cut steel.
Another quality of the accordion
pleated liberty is not shaded. but in
one solid color. 1t is tucked, and on
the edge of each tuck close together
is a silver or good cord. When pleat-
ed, the effect is charming A pale blue
mantilla made Of this material had an
edge of white chiffon also The silk
Is purchased by the stretched yard
Implicated Rainbow Chiffon.
Implicated rainbow chiffon. which
as the name implies. is shaded, makes
the daintiest of head scarfs. 4 pink
one. shading from the faintest suel
pink TO rose pink. was made like a
hood. and had a frill of the same ma
teriaL The ties were short. and fell
only to the waist line A rosette of
The chiffon on top of the hood was
caught in position with a green pin.
A homemade mantilla. which ere
ated quite a sensation on its first an
pearance, had a foundation of cream
liberty silk with long stole ends. This
was simply covered with row upon
row of white crepe lisse ruching. A
wider crepe lisse ruching edged a lib
erty silk ruffle. which fell in fascinat-
ing folds about the face and around
the stole ends. An all red one. worn
with red crepe de chine gown, had an
edge of black velvet baby ribbon sew
II is quite a fad among girls who
can WELD paint brush gracefully to
decorate their mantillas according TO
their fancy. Mousseline. chiffon. liberty
silk and even dainty muslins and or
CANDIES are used for this purpose. A
shawl-shaped mantilla of sheerest silk
muslin had the point and border dec
GRATED with raVishing sprays of vio-
let's and their leaves. frill of the
same had violet petals painted on il.
minus the stems. Another one Of silk
had boiling cloth surface besprinkled
with pansies. Wild roses. chrysanthc-
NUNS, forget-me- and marguerite
daisies are faVorite blossoms for this
work.
japanese Shadow Painting.
This new art is called japanese shad-
ow painting, and it is easily done, after
q few experiments on cheaper mater
ials. 1t is accomplished by the use OF
dyes or water color paints applied Ia
the outline, as in any other method OF
painting. Blotting paper is placed un-
derneath the fabric to keep the oil from
spreading. The delicate shading is done
after the first coat has thoroughly
dried.
Some of the handsomest mantillas
are in the shape of long scarfs. These
are corded silk. like the popular Roman
shawls. Others are OF the japanese
embroidered shawls. They come in al
colors, but the favorites are the dainty
blues, pinks and creams, which are
edged with a white marabout fur. The
latter is suitable for evening wear II
summer as well as winter, because Of
its hufiness. which is akin to chiffor