davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1904-10-23

And cloth gowns trimmed with now
ers cut out of silk, velvet, cloth or sill
yer or piece lace.
Looking little ahead, one sees hand
some fur collarettes. reaching almost to
the feet, built OF ermine and trimmed
with the loveliest black fur flowers cut
bodily out Of pieces OF black fur.
To this list of fashions should surely
be added the new sleeves, which are 80
bewildering and so numerous. One or
the latest is made of piece lace, fitted
to the arm like the bark Of the tree
But betv- IN the elbow and the shoul-
der there are three wide lace rufhes
and on each ruffie there is little TO
sette of black velvet
Around the brims of fall has are
thrown wreaths OF autumn leaves.
These are in all the fall colors. deep
green and deep red and bronze. They
are made into garlands and are caught
at the back with a great bow OF velvet
ribbon with very wide ends. The
round hats with broad brims are par
ticularly pretty treated In this man
ner.
One fall hat was deprived OF its sum
mer trimming and in place OF it there
was q wreath OF crimson roses set
around the crown. A bunch OF the
roses nestled underneath and set on
the hat. A chiffon veil, with seal
loped border, was draped pretty well
back upon the hat so that the ENDS
trailed at the back over the hair.
In the world of coming styles one no
tices more than anything else the even
ing gown, which is so charming that
one can see little else. Its colors, its
elaborate allover lace. its lace rufres
and its great variety Of lace trimmings
these all go to make 1t so charming.
Some Ideal Gowns for Fall.
There are gowns that have the lace
chemisette fastened IN the back under
its rosette OF blue tulle, all exquisitely
trimmed with the smallest steel beads
These jetted or beaded rosettes for the
back Of the neck are lovely, but care
must be taken that the beads are not
heavy enough to weigh II down. or the
rosette will sag instead OF setting out
smartly.
Rosettes and balls OF chiffon make a
very pretty trimming. In the middle OF
each there can be q little ornament or
the rosette can be round and designed
to stand out smartly at the back OF the
collar. These same globes in smaller
size are pretty at one side OF the yoke
and are frequently seen also In the
front Of the girdle-
The woman who knows how to pipe
should use her talent for the finishing
of bands Of lace. She should run a lit
tie piping along both edges OF the lace,
and she should also pipe the sleeve
The San Francisco call., 1904-10-23

recall. was a tight-fitting waist with a
little frill below the belt. 1t was all In
one piece and was all buttoned down
before. The buttons were a feature Of
the basque. as was the collar.
The new basques are made much In
the same wav. Their sleeves are very
boufant, being finished In any one OF q
dozen elaborate ways and the neck II
fitted with a wide collar or with .
stole; or It Is out In a big ". outlined
with lace or with q little embroidery.
Those who are not quite ready TO take
up the tight-fitting basque can try the
boned bodice. which IL now quite the
vogue One verv charming model IL
recommended to all who have forsaken
the blouse effect and who would like to
take up the bodice. This model has q
skirt with yoke of fllet lace. the
whole being of black. The skirt hangs
full from the lace yoke. Then there il
the bodice. which Is brought down to
the long. low. boned point In front and
is fitted over the skirt at the sides. This
is very pretty style. With this bodice
there is worn a fichu of black lace.
knotted on the bust. with the ends fall
The San Francisco call., 1904-10-23

OF the skirt; another wire Is run In
the skirt a few inches higher. and a
third at the head OF the hounce. This
makes a petticoat bouffant in the
prettiest way possible and it is style
which can be recommended to every
one who wants a handsome skirt.
The new dinner dresses are exquis-
itely finished With lace and with
flounces and all the trimmings which
mark the season. But those who want
a handsome plain gown cam take an
evening dress of voile, of liberty, OF
louisine, of taffeta or Of figured silk
any Of the heavier evening materials
will do-and can finish the skirt with
tucks. Three wide, fiat tucks are laid
right above the hem. They are OF
varying widths and there is very
little embroidery above each. Or, in
the case of street dresses, there is no
embroidery at all. but sometimes a
tiny rim of velvet or of gold thread
above the tucks.
Nice Dinner Gowns.
It is difficult to draw the line be-
tween the nice street dress and the
dinner gowns. between the toilets that
are meant for reception wear and
those that are for less ceremonious
use. In these days of light colors and
Of fine materials one does not know
where one begins and the other leaves
off.
A very nice dinner gown was made
of china blue yelling. 1t was trimmed
in conventional style with bands OF
embroidery running around the neck
and wrists. There was a band Of emf
broidery down the front and a band of
the same down each shoulder. The
sleeves were very large, with tucks at
the upper part.
One lovely pair of sleeves were cut
The San Francisco call., 1904-10-23

around and around Just below the
shoulder. They were laced together
again with bands Of black satin. They
were cut again just above the wrist
And the cuff was laced on again with
strappings of the black satin.
One sleeve which suggested a re-
vival was made Of all-over lace. II
was trimmed with two deep taffeta
ruffies. One was sewed on above the
elbow and the other below, 50 as to
fall over the hand. A smaller ruff1e
gave the bouffant effect to the shoul-
der.
How difficult It Is TO give more than
an idea of the fashions that are to
comei There is the cloth gown with
leaves cut out of velvet and applied
with embroidery stitches, so as to
make a border of the leaves. And
there are little velvet flowers cut out
and applied to the cloth. And, again.
there is velvet flower upon a long
stem, applied above the hem and
again on the front Of the waist. A
great deal can be done with these vel
vet appliques.
There are so many blues this season
The San Francisco call., 1904-10-23

which are as bouffant as they can be
with the fullness creeping toward the
shoulder. How long will 1t be before
there Is the shoulder puff again. with
It's fullness and its crinoline, its
breadth and its width?
The silhouette of the woman of the
season is something like the hour
glass. There is the little waist, there
are the wide shoulders, for which one
must thank the Gibson girl, and there
Is the fun wide Skirt. The hips are
clinging and the waist is laced tightly,
but the shoulders and the hem of the
skirt are both wide.
The St. Louis Exposition has done a
great deal for woman's styles, for 1t
has made them more uniform. There
was danger of a general drifting in
opposite directions. and 1t looked at
one time as though part of the femi-
nine world would go into the crino-
lines, while the other half would cling
to the tight skirts.
The French dressmakers are making
the. very snug waists with the little
tignt-fitting basques. And the old
fashioned basque is dangerously near
at hand again. The basque. If you win
The San Francisco call., 1904-10-23

that one need not go begging for the
right one. They lie on every hand.
but China blue and Wedgwood blue
are perha 5 the prettiest and the most
popular for the moment. b. a little
later fancy will revert to royal blue
and navy blue. These two blues are
exquisite in midwinter and they we'll
deserve their long run Of popularity.
Frills and Buttons.
Purple is not quite as good style as
it was, though there is always the
heliotrope gown. But instead of purple
there is pistache green and there is leaf
green and there are the brighter
greens. One cannot get very nice win
ter weig, cloths in all these shades.
In the evening fairies orchid pink
shines forth as being very handsome
for evening wear, and particularly is
ii nice forsdinners and where the lights
are to be .rilliant. Orchid pink is
trimmed with bands. Of rose bordered
With pipings of bla K. Trimming a
gown of this description there are
cream lace ruffles and a chemisette
worked with black silk.
Inc button question continues 10 De
an interesting one, particularly as ap-
piled to sleeves. One Of the pretty
sleeves of the week is buttoned all the
way down the back. A frill of lace falls
down the outside, setting off the but
tons handsomely. The frill reaches
from the shoulder TO the waist, for the
entire back of the sleeve is slit open,
filed IN with lace and buttoned up
again with little brass buttons.
Another gown, this one made of dark
green louisine, has a sleeve that is
wrinkled to the elbow. 1t is slit and
the slit is finished with a row of bullet
buttons and lace frill.
Chiffon frills to match the gown are
The San Francisco call., 1904-10-23

ing below the belt line. The hat should
be tall-crowned one. all waving
plumes.
The fitted hip yoke Of lace. or of silk.
with the boned bodice with its long
point in front. and the knotted fchu.
furnishes the model for style which is
a most becoming one. 1t makes the
figure look SO very slender.
A Pointer on the New Styles.
The long plain front panel is another
step in the right direction as far as
becomingness Is concerned. The low
boned bodice point. the long plain front
panel and the snug hips are all Of great
benefit to the woman who wants to look
tall and slender: and where is the wo-
man who does not desire this great
boon?
In q resume Of the styles of the week
one notes these things:
Three new shades or old shades
popularized-orchid pink, coque de
roche yellow, Wedgwood blue. pale
brown. ripe reddish tan, and to this
may be added London smoke gray.
One notices also renaissance OF mar
row gold braid. No wider than
thread. 1t Is used upon many cloth
gowns to give them distinction
The revival OF serge as a smart fall
material, either braided or piped or
trimmed with narrow ribbon puffings,
is observed
Bouffant silk petticoats with the hem
wired to make them set out more are
now q feature OF every wardrobe.
The San Francisco call., 1904-10-23

trimmings, the upper edges OF the
tucks and all other trimmings applied
or inset. There Is a perfect rage for
pipings and the narrow line OF white or
blue or black Is a feature OF all the neW
gowns
French folds rank first as q trimming
and these folds vary IN width from uny
narrow folds to those that are wide and
striking.
There is a passion, also, for dangieS
OF all kinds, and these hang suspended
from different points In the waist put
particularly from the girdle. from tne
rosettes, from the vests and from the
medallions. You can get up a WONDER
fully pretty gown by employing tnese
bangles upon the front
There is a new note sounded IN the
waistcoat line. The most or1ilians
vests are being made OF manners OF
gorgeous hues. These will be enorold-
cred and literally embellished Win
braided and cut-out designs some
thing really starting IS proHsseu s IN IA
fall gowns along vest lines. 1cr the
vests of fall gowns And she VINO -
going to build fall dress should wait
and see what Is TO come Vests OF
scarlet are braided IN gold and deep
yellow vests are covered with Jets
In the trimming line there are
spanxIed passementeries. which are
very good. One trimming Is built upon
a basis Of narrow scalloped lace. The
entire lace Is literally spangled with
let until it forms almost one solid
trimming. This is used IN rows upon
the skirt.
A pretty brown silk dress for early
fall has a deep fiounce, upon which are
applied lace roses, cut out and appli-
Qued to the founce. Heading this
f1ounce there Is band OF spangled Jet.
Another gown Is built Of black cloth
with a deep foot f1ounce, all laid IN
side plaits- The only trimming con-
sists OF black braid two inches wide,
put on In swirls. three rows extending
all the way around the skirt
Puf1ngs Of silk are greatly used Rib
bon two inches wide Is shirred along
each edge and pulled up to make
very smart puff. Sometimes the shir
string Is run a quarter OF an inch from
the edge o. the ribbon. 50 that there Is
q little heading OF silk.
One very smart Partisan gown Is
trimmed above the hem with a band
OF ribbon eight inches wide. 1t is
shirred in four places with a shirring
running the entire length This creates
a series Of little silk puffs which are
very smart indeed.
Looking ahead into fall one can fore
cast the styles with some accuracy, ex-
cept in the matter Of sleeves, and here
one fails completely, for the new
sleeves are so varied that one can
scarcely predict what is to come. Dame
Fashion says, wait few days and
will show you the prettiest sleeve OF
all"
The San Francisco call., 1904-10-23

New coIors are seen, new
Iaccs are shown and new mate
rials are spread on the counters.
while new ideas mark the new
dresses OF the waning year. Lit
tie hints on the new trimmings
and how TO use tuclSings and
bands OF velvet. Utility gowns
and gowns for nice wear.
The San Francisco call., 1904-10-23
BY AUGUSTA PRESCOTT.

" HANDSOME woman walked
down Fifth avenue the other
day. past the new Carnegie resi-
dence and along Millionaires'
4 l. lIL y
The Newtown bee., 1904-06-17
NEW TEL LEPnONE MANAGER. MAURICE H. NUTTIN9 TO SUCCEED NR STRONG, WHO WILL TAKE A REST FOR FEW MONTHS.

. Manager J. F. Strong of the Norwalk telephone exchange will be- succeeded there July l by Maurice H. Nutting of New Haven, who has been with the company for the past three years in New Haven. He thoroughly under stands the telephone business, and is in every way competent to carry on the work so acceptably performed by Manager Strong. MT Nutting is we'll known in Newtown, having with MT Knight made the successful canvass for the Newtown Central, last winter. He is man of affable qualities, and worthy the promotion which has come to him.
The Newtown bee., 1904-06-17

VOI1A A 1hANoF II WA6 to see the moving machines humming, and the teams hauling alfalfa hay from the fields, as we did beyond San Ber- nardino. We reached our home in Redlands in the afternoon of Saturday at the finish of a one thousand mile trip, the recollections of which will be daily pleasure to us the remainder of our earthly lives. We found 13 let ters awaiting us from family and home friends, also copy of THE BEE, the accumulation of weeks mail, and a pleasant rounding out of another eventful pleasure. We know 13 is called an unlucky number, but we will take our chances on it any time while so far from home. In the Yellowstone Park, I am told the coaches are all numbered, and one number reads 13}. When asked of the manager of trans portation, ,"Why do you add the frac- tion?" he replies, Because some trav- elers would not take number 13 coach. They feared breakdown or tumble into the river, so I put on the half to take i'll luck away.|[E. L.. Johnson.
The Newtown bee., 1904-06-17

times cratic in it's course and oft times forms new channels. That proved to be the case after the Santa Fe road was built, and new bridge was constructed among those enduring obelisks which are known as the "Nee- dles," and from which the town is named, cantilever bridge, the second largest of it's kind in the world. The main suspended span is 660 feet in length and each cantilever arm 165 feet. We crossed on this bridge on our return from the Grand Canyon and we also crossed the same river at Yu- ma for the Southern Pacific on our outward trip from our Connecticut home and these are the only bridges that span the entire river in it's length of over two thousand miles. A cos mopolitan crowd similar to the one we met when we went but, was at the station. There was stop ot 30 min utes for supper which i'm proved in studying ethnology. It took but glance to see that REFRESHMENTS OF FIVE RACES WERE CoMMINeLED ON THE RAIL- ROAD PLATFORM.
 Representatives of the Mojave tribe of Indians, with their beads, bows and arrows and trinkets for sale, the colored porters of our train of the Negro race, Mexicans, representatives of those who, in the earlier days, were lords of all California soil, the China man, Hong Wong, representing five millions of the Flowery Kingdom, ano the Anglo-Saxon race, busiest of then
The Newtown bee., 1904-06-17

Let me hear from you If you want anything in Real Estate.
The Newtown bee., 1904-06-17

The Street nine played ball, Saturday, on the Fair grounds with nine from Palestine. Only three innings were played, when the rain stopped proceedings. The score then stood to 2 in favor of the Street team.
The Newtown bee., 1904-06-17

The Board of School Visitors will meet at the High school building, Sat- urday morning, June 25, at 9.30 a. m., to hold the annual examinations. for entrance to the High school. All can- didates are requested to present them selves on that day.
The Newtown bee., 1904-06-17

Oscar D. Reid, the genial represen- tative of the Tirrell Gas Machine Co.,, passed Sunday in town, stopping at the Grand Central hotel.
The Newtown bee., 1904-06-17

all, hustling about in the dining-room, inspecting the cunning gear of the train, ,tumbling trunks in or out of the car as the case might be, running with orders from the train dispatcher, each and all keeping one eye on the al- mighty dollar in the perspective, which they were expecting to have in reality when next pay day came around. The conductors "all aboard" came all too soon for me, and the train moved out on it's night stretch across the Mojave desert, which we crossed by daylight the Monday before, and to which allusion was made in my last weeks letter. Berths were made, and soon the train load of human freight was stretched out for sleep if sleep would come. But there were eyes that must not sleep. For on the watchful- ness of engineers, firemen and con ductors (under Providence) the lives of all that human freight did ldepend. At daylight, Saturday morning, we are nearing Cajou pass, rift in the mountains that will let us into the Santa Ana and San Gabriel valleys by drop of about 4000 feet. We have left the desert behind us and are in San Bernardino county, county twice as large as the state of Massachusetts. (Stop and think of this, twice as large and then don't wonder any more at California distances).
Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1904-11-05
TINE VALUE OF CHARCOAL.
Few People Know How Useful 1t Is
in Preserving Health and
Beauty.

Nearly everybody knows that char.
coal ia the safest and most efficient
disinfectant and purifier in nature,
but few realize its value when taken
into the human system for the same
cleansing purpose.
Charcoal is remedy that the more
you take of it the better; it is not a
drug at all, but simply absorbs the
gases and impurities always present
in the stomach and intestines and
carries them out of the system.
Charcoal swetens the breath after
smoking, drinking or after eating
onions and other odorous vegetables.
Charcoal effectually clears and i'm.
proves the complexion, il whitens the
teeth and further acts as a natural
and eminently safe cathartic.
1t absorbs the injurious gases which
collect in the stomach and bowels; it
disinfeets the mouth and throat from
the poison of catarrh.
All druggists sell charcoal in one
form or another, but probably the best
charcoal and the most for the money
is in Stuart Charcoal Lozenges; they
are composed Of the finest powdered
Willow charcoal, and other harmless
antiseptics in tablet form or rather in
the form of large, pleasant tasting
loSenges, the charcoal being mixed
with honey,
The daily use Of these lOzenges viii
soon tell in a much improved eondi-
tion Of the general health, better com.
plexion, sweeter breath and purer
blood, and the beany Of II is, that no
possible harm can result from their
continued use, but on the contrary,
great benefit.
A Buffalo physician In speaking Of
the benefits of charcoal, says; "I ad.
wise Stuart's Charcoal LoEenges to all
patients suffering from gas in stOm.
Seh and bowels, and to clear the com.
plexiOn and purify the breath, mouth
and throat, also bslievs the liver is
greatly benefited by the daily use Of
themi they cost but twenty-five cents
a box at drug stores, and although in
some sense a patent preparation, yet i
believe l get more and better charcoal
in Stuart's CHARCOAL LoEenges than
in any Of the ordinary charcoal tab.
let's" Nov 5-l2-19-s6
Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1904-11-05
Beware of ointments for Catarrh That
Contain Mercury.

as mercury will surely destroy the
sense of smell and completely derange
the whole system when entering it
through the mucous surfaces. Such ar
tieles should never be used except on
prescriptions from reputable physi-
clans, as the damage they will do is
ten fold to the good you can possibly
derive from them. Halls Catarrh
Cure, manufactured by f. J. Cheney
& Co, Toledo, Ohio, contains no mer-
curry, and is taken internally, acting
directly upon the blood and mucous
surfaces of the system. In buying
Halls Catarrh Cure be sure you get
the genuine. Il is taken internally
and made in Toledo, Ohio, by F. J.
Cheney & Co. Testimonials free.
Sold by druggists. Price 75c per
bottle.
Take Halls Family Pills for cOnsti,
patton.
Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1904-11-05
EFFECT
OF PROHI
POLICY

The Taxpayers League Of Lane
county is sending out the following
postal card touching on the question
Of prohibition:
It is the duty Of every voter TO con
serve the best moral and financial in
terests Of Lane count.
The consumption of liquor never has
been nor never can be suppressed
Prohibition without decreasing the
consumption of liquor increases dis
order.
Prohibition means the sale of liquor
without regulation, thus increasing its
consumption by minors and drunkards.
Prohibition will increase taxes by
cutting off the revenue from liquor
licenses
Prohibition is detrimental TO the hop
industry, which distributes about $780,
600 annually in Lane county.
Therefore vote against prohibition at
the election November 8, 1904.
Prohibition has been tried and been
demonstrated to be a failure in 10
states of this union and been advan-
tageous in none. It is a failure in
Ashland, in this state.
Prohibition makes "blind pigs. :"
"Blind pigs" make disorder and un.
regulated sale of liquor. These make
legal prosecutions. Legal prosecutions
make expense to the county. County
expense makes high taxes.
High license, which is the system
in operation in Lane county, has been
shown by experience to be the best
way to handle the liquor question.
Regulation, not prohibition, is the
watchword of practical improvement.
l. Prohibition in theory makes the
purchase of liquors impossible. In
practice it removes its sale from the
legalized saloon to the drug stores and
the soda fountain-the "blind pig"
2. Prohibition in theory lessons the
burden of crime. In practice it lays
the burden on the taxpayer instead of
on itself through license fees.
3. Prohibition in theory eliminates
an evil. In fact it only loses control
of it.
4. If you want the sale of liquor to
run wild, prohibit its sale-then settle
the bill If you want to check abuse,
keep control over it-and make it pay
its own bill of expense with interest.
8. All these things are true because
you cannot enforce a law where such
a large part of the people do not be-
lieve in its right and justice.
If prohibition prohibits, how did
Carrie Nation s" hatchet find so
much use in a prohibition state3
If prohibition prohibits, why did II
states discard 1t out of the Is that
tried it9