Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-08-13
A MILITARY LUNCHEON
When the Boy Of Tunis Was
the Guest.
PARTISAN DELEGATES
THEY WERE TOO MUCH FOR THE
FIRST MINISTER.
There is Something Doing in the
Culinary Line When France
Feeds a Potentate.
Special Correspondence Of The Evening Star.

| PARIS, August z, 1904.
| Should President Roosevelt come to
France as President of the United States,
how would they feed him?
1t Is not conundrum, but a problem of
| protccolic import, just exemplifed in the
| case of the Bey of Tunis, who came as a
| hey and was received as such
Now. when the French government starts
IN TO iced a potentate who comes as such,
the composition of his meals falls under the
nigh and severe department of the protocol
Inc idea Is to give the best, served In
french taste and order. There must be no
fancifulness and no skipping. And woe
| to the potentate who has not in his heart
the poetry of feeding.
| Mohamed ell Hadj had 1t. He passed
through the trial with glory. But his first
minister Is an old man, whose name is
El-Azziz- Bou-Attour. Having no teeth, he
could not eat meat And being an old
fashioned Mussulman, he looked shy at all
Negeta bles that might be cooked in grease
therefore, the venerable Ei-AZziz- Bou-At-
tour stoically sat through splendid dinners
waiting for dessert and fruit, as you Shall
see.
1t was at the military luncheon" given
by the minister of war that the unhappy
El-Azziz- Bou-Attour began to be noticed
by Parisians.
1t was a highly favorable lunch for an
aged minister without teeth:
Iced Melon.
Georgette Potatoes,
Salmon Trute, Partisan Style,
Chateaubriand.
Frcaseed Chicken Curry
SorbetS,
Seven hour Mutton,
Chaufroid of Guinea Hen truffIes
Salade Gauoise,
Little Peas, Partisan Style
Cepes. Bordeaux Style,
Poached Peaches,
Fruits, Ices.
El-Azziz- Bou-Attour went for the initial
melon with courage that fairly scared the
PariSians. They are the big warty, green
gray melons of Partisan forced culture the
preternatural pet of the retired business
! recrossed Into something great and luscious
suave In taste and tint, melting In the
mouth, quite absolutely delcious-and quite
absolutely dangerous.
Liable to Make Trouble.
Careful Partisan housewives. when they
serve this melon, arrange with the fruit
merchant to take all back but one-the one
they cut to pass round! Only the very
young and the old and utterly discouraged
risk it. 1t Is a sweet colic-bringer. Its
gray-green exterior conceals deep, almost
orange-yellow pulp, almost solid, with sur
priSingly few seeds.
The aged CHARACTERIZATION was start
ing on his third slice when Madame Andre,
wife of the minister of war, charitably
whispered TO an alU-ue-CaInp, VINO with eX-
quisite diplomatic tact explained to the Caid
Si-Moustafa-Den-GueZli the risk which the
| white-bearded sage was running.
El-Azziz-B ou-Attour smiled benignantly,
and held out his glass for mineral water.
Then he continued to hold out the filled
glass. wagging his venerable beard saga
ciously.
what does he want?' whispered Madame
Andre.
He wants big chunk Of ice in it," an
swered the Caid.
Give it to him. said the fair wife of the
minister of war, concealing her terror;
doubtless he is ironclad1'
Still drinking ice water El-Azziz turned
to the Georgette potatoes, comparatively
recent triumph Of Partisan cookery invent.
ed by the late Joseph, once celebrated
(wrongfully) as the $4,000 Vanderbilt cook.
Joseph was never cook, but gilt-edged
matre d'hotel or gastronomic expert Qhe
chef or true cook, who accompanied him
in the Vanderbilt adventure was Watrin,
today proprietor of the Sport restaurant
at the Porte MailloO.
Not What They Look.
The Georgette potatoes are not what they
look They come on like baked potatoes
And they are baked potatoes. Only they
have been followed out and stuffed with
farce" of c-ayfish.
Delicious" said the Vicomte de Chaul-
mes, secretary of the protocol to the hey,
who appeared to be starting into Geor-
gette potato eating match with his patri-
archal side partner; delicious. but rich
crayfish, shrimps, spices. oil, cognac; very
delicious, but very rich!'
The salmon trout with green sauce Is the
great standby of springtime Paris You
run across it everywhere. The true Cna
teaubriand is rarer. The minister of war
served 1t in the old style. 1t is steak
but what a steak!
Invented by the INDUSTRIOUS hght OF
French literature after the revolution.
murmured the young Prince Tayar. VINO is
still at his studies.
EXACTLY" replied General Andre. that
10 to saw it was invented by the illustrious
restaurant proprietor Champeaux, and
named after Chateaubriand. then minister
of public instruction. Champeaux evolved
this extraordinary 'bifstek.' He took
thick piece of tender fillet and sandwched
| It in between two thin rump steaks. Then
he grilled the whole. The rump steaks yield