Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-02

great deal of black relieved by just q sus-
picion Of strong color, and there is de-
cided feeling for navy blue which Is al
most black. Some especially attractive
costumes of the latter boastlng the three
TERED skirt surmounted by loose, banded
boleros are trimmed deliberately with a
curious narrow silk trimming. half braid,
half fringe. over which the taiiors are en-
thusing Apropos Of the three-tiered skirt.
I find 1t impossible to generalize as to
whom IL will suit. Ones first inclination is
to jump to the conclusion that only the tall
woman can wear this triple alliance. Upon
investigation it has been found that the
well set up short woman--not the dumpy
sort-manages to carry off this triple Jupe
with success. When worn by petite mon
dame trained back would be preferable,
and the hem of each yolant should be ac-
centuated with braid.
On the seasons new gowns all trimming
is applied horizontally, and everything in
the nature of finish is put on across, not up
and down. A smart finish is to be found in
cording, which is used in all degrees of
thickness, from the size of the thumb TO
barely hair line. To be effective this cord
must be supple and never stin or hard IN
appearance. Small buttons, covered In
number of instances with the gown mate
rial are a fancy of the moment. They are
used in sequence and are to be seen out
lining waistcoats, cuffs and revers-
Long Shoulders.
The short cape of highwayman style Is
completely vetoed in exclusive modistic cir
cIes. In fact, this becoming garment has
been absorbed for the time in the ubiquitous
long shoulder empiecement, and the mys-
terry as to where the sleeve begins daily
grows deeper.
Although the Easter bonnet is a stock
joke of the comic papers in the Rue de la
Paix, 1t is no joke in madame's stock of
models, for she has heaps of dainty head
festivals. Spring millinery may be divided
into two classes-the chic and the pictur-
esque. The really picturesque hats have
lace brims and fall of lace shades the hat
all round. This "falr' is a splendid inven-
ton for the oculist, as 1t will make almost
any woman cross-eyed after a seasons
wear. Exaggerated lace drapery at the
back of the hat is not seen in the best
houses. Gainsborough and empire types
have long. trailing rlumes curling over and
under the brim, or else flowers in sprays
are used to lengthen the appearance o: the
hat behind A shepherdess straw hat trim
med with band of small roses js a pretty
frame for young face. The 1880 bonnet
with strings is also worn. This is a dainty
model which never really goes out of FASH
ion. new hat to wear with the tailor
made is coronet shape of rough straw,
the turned-up brim nearest the face entire
ly covered with flowers. Leghorn Will
again be favorite. and a practical speci-
men for outing wear is of white or buff
CANVAS Vi SdliclOtfl, Will al extra DFlHl VI
black near the face. This hat is usually in
the Breton sailor shape.
Fancy Head Dressing.
One of the Parisians latest amusements
in the way of dressing up-we are incura-
bly, childish these days-is dinner follow
ed by dance, at which the women fix their
hair in some old-time fashion, and the men
do the same, or. if they not quite brave
enough, they wear their own hair and,
to escape the dreariness of simple evening
dress. don hunt or court coats and knee
breecheS Many of the modernized old
gowns are lovely for affairs of this kind.
Ivory mousseline de sole, made with a full
skirt and trimmed with insertions of white
lace banded with tiny black lace ruching,
and the Marie Antoinette fichu similarly
ornamented and fastened with quaint ro-
settle, would be most appropriate toilet.
The occidental mind is running more and
more to Japanese sartorial ideas. The latest
suggestion is a novel tea gown with a jap
anese tendency carried out in chiffon and
oriental embroideries.
CATHERINE TALBOT.