The herald-advance. (Milbank, S.D.) 1890-1922, 1904-03-18

IA A1O08X VhAH L
another direction we took dinner
at q big plantation with Capt. Floyd,
who was on Maceo's staff at the time
of his death. Not long since we made
q trip by water up the coast to look
over q land proposition which an old
Spaniard had for sale. One thing
which we have found out to a Ger.
tainty is that while the Cubans are
in the saddle politically, the old
Spaniards have the wealth and most
of the land: on this trip the S%paniards
furnished the steamboat and took us
some forty miles up the. coast; where
we we're to land the water was so
some distance from shore and we were
landed in a row boat. The only house
in sight was a mile and a half away,
we walked this distance as we were
getting hungry and had no lunch
with us, although coffee had been
served on the boat on II way up.
While walking this distance on the
sandy beach we experienced our first
Inconvenience from the heat, and
although we had our umbrellas, it
made us think of harvest time in July
or August. However, we reached the
house, which we found to be the home
of a typical Cuban family; the house
was thirty feet long and eighteen
wide, with a bedroom partitioned off
at one end, one story high and built
of boards. There were no windows,
but seven doors, which were always
open | should think. There were
three Cuban women and a number of
children, the youngest of whom was
naked-absoluteiy without a stitch of
clothing. This fellow was a boy. The
three women were bright looking and
soon were busy preparing dinner for
us: one killed two chickens, another
dug the sweet potatoes, while the
third started the charcoal fire, which
is made in a stove without a chimney.
What little smoke there is gets out
of the house through the numerous
doors. During the time the ladies
were preparing dinner they all three
smoked cigarettes, but, notwithstand-
ing this and the dishabilled condition
of the youngest son and also the
presence of numerous dogs, cats and
chickens in the house WE ate a hearty
meal. The bill of fare consisted of
stewed chicken with rice, fresh pork
with garlic a la Cuban, omelet with
onions, etc., fried plantain this is a
large, oarse banana which they cook
in various ways sweet potatoes,
mashed Irish potatoes, good bread,
but poor butter, raw onions, sliced,
raw tomatoes, lettuce and radish.
For dessert: Custard pudding, guaro
Jelly and black coffee with hot milk.
When dinner was over everybody
smoked, while saddle horses and
mules were brought up. We were all
soon in the saddle and off to ride
over a large estate. We found the
land billy and stony with too much
waste land to please us. While we
were riding and looking over the
| country the wind raised, and by the
time we returned TO the boat landing,
ready to return, the waves were run
ming on shore very high and ever the
row boat could not get to shore.
Some of the party Including Mr..
Wood pulled off their pants and
waded out to the row boat. [ rode
u on the back of a big Cuban, but
while being rowed to the steamer l
was submerged by the big waves and
was thoroughly wet, but it was warm
and [ suffered no harm. On the trip
home the steamer had hard work to
pillow through the heavy sea and it
was necessary to keep we'll anchored
to your seat or be tossed over to the
opposite side of the cabin. We finally
reached home about nine O'Clock,
tired out and full of ~hard-earned
experiences. On the following morn
ing an adventurous gentleman from
Ohio, being anxious for excitement
and DESTROYS also to make a recOrd
that would startle the natives when
he returned to his home land OF presi-
Dental timber, engaged an Italian
fisherman and e fishing for a
eating shark. They had an Immense
line and a hook that looked like an
anchor: the bait consisted OF two live
dogs. n of which they tied fast to
the hook and threw overheard, it vas
not long before'a huge shark grabbed
the tempting canine morsel, and the
wild fight was on. 1t was dangerous
business and the conflict was uncer-
tain for a time, but finally the shark
was killed and towed to shore, and
actually measured twenty-five feet
from nose tip to tail end. The other
dog was saved. The next issue of
the "Havana POST contained a letter
from an American lady protesting
against the use of live dogs for shark
bait. We have already travelled Owe
1000 miles on the island, stopping at
various stations and riding horse
back into the country examining
plantations, and learning from first
hands and our own observation the
exact conditions here. We have slept
in Cuban farm huts made wholly Of
palm leaves and stayed over night
with the old Spanish sugar planter,
where not a soul could speak a word
of English and everywhere we have
been treated kindly. Nearly all
freighting On the farms is done on
big two-wheeled carts drawn by oxen
or mules. The cattle have the yoke
dashed to the head, but are able to
draw very heavy loads. The milk
man will carry his milk to town in
tin milk cans suspended from either
side of a pony or saddle horse, while
he rides on top Of the bulky load.
Large herds of sle~ek-looking cattle
may be seen feeding on the rich
grasses that grow waist high in the
extensive pastures. Thousands of
head of cattle have been shipped in
here since the war from South America,
Texas and Porto Rico. We have met