Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1904-01-07
pRoMENApE COSTUME.

the JOuS anu luiAy uOdo, WHICH d %
much more becoming than the fat and
almost if not quite collarless shapes in
the 1880 styles.
Speaking of these styles, it appears
that we are really in for them, as ev-
cry new thing has something reminis-
cent of them The ugly, fabby, fiat
muffs and the hourglass stoles and the
shorter and more extensive sweep of
skirt all point so. The many founces
are indications, and for these last we
should be grateful, as founces under
standingly applied are very pretty and
graceful A few of these harbingers of
spring have from two to three founces
eight to ten inches deep. Where they
are put straight around the skirt they
are not ungraceful but the worst fea-
ture is that the modiste is trying to fol-
low the olden styles too literally and
puts them on in festoons or scallops,
with homely rosettes at the apex. But
as the fashion becomes a settled fact
all these queer fancies will give place
to modified style.
This week has been prolific in the
bringing to our shores of millions of
dollars worth of new dress goods for
early spring and even for the coming
summer. OF these shall not speak.
lest the gloss of newness be worn off
before the warm days come. But a
few words about the pretty spring
wooIens may not be amiss, for have
often remarked that it seems but a
short time after Christmas has come
and gone until spring is with us.
In the first place, we may say that
the old mohair that we knew as a
glossy but harsh stuff, but new one,
soft and silky, with none of the old
roughness which made it a dubious
pleasure to have one of the gowns. Be
sides, the new mohair is produced in
so many novel and pretty styles that
it would be an impossibility to mention
half of them. The main point is that
| they are woven into pin head and grad
uated stripes, white on gray and white
on black. in many designs. But all
are marked by great fneness in weave
and delicacy of design. Indeed the ma
terial looks like the richest silk. An
other excellence has been added to
these new goods. They have all been
cravenetted, which means that some
process in the manufacture has rem
dered them absolutely waterproof. This
is great thing. as now we can wear
the pretty and serviceable mohairs out
! in the heaviest rain without danger to
the fabric, Nearly all of the best goods
are now cravenetted.
The handsomest of these new mo-
hairs show striped effects, mostly
white and pepper and salt. though oc-
casioRally there is one with a red or
blue hair line stripe. There are tans.
| olives. grays and several other colors.
The new silk warp henriettas show
small brocaded designs in sunburst
| patterns and others all small and fine.
/ This material is too well known to re-
/ Quire any description other than to
mention that it is now produced with
4 brocaded figures. There is another
mohair with deep twill something
like armure silk and quite as rich and
/ heavy. with frosty bloom. and It is
also rendered unspotable. There is still
| another rather lighter, and this will be
made up like the others. into hand
some tailored suits. There is also a
heavy twill something like prunella,
and this is exceptionally rich and with
a deep ulster.
The costume represented here is
made of the tan shade as a pattern
gown and is finished simply to show
the beauty of the mohair. It Is trimmed
at the waist with plain white silk
castle braid and darker braid ending
with fancy breloques
These braids. breloques and buttons
and many other things all fashioned
by the same process are in the highest
style now. and It may almost be said
that they are displacing lace as trim
ming of fine dresses Hats are also
made Of the suitable hraids.
HENRIETTE ROUSSEAU.