The San Francisco call., 1904-06-12

N o vegetate in a delightful cli-
mate, whose hottest sunbeams
are cooled by breezes blown
from Andean snow fields, ex-
empt from all excitements ex-
cept, perhaps, those that spring from
natural causes, such as love-that is
the delight of life In Chile. To prom
enade In the cool OF the evening in the
Garden Of Delight" the public garden
of the populace, and still later to at
tend the opera, or tertulia, as the So
cial gatherings in the private houses
are called, is almost the sole diversion
Of the Chilean.
The fair Chilean rises late, in des-
habille she dawdles about, amusing
herself with fancy work or nothing at
all until sheer ennui drives her forth
to seek relaxation in shopping or max
ing calls. Then the glossy hair mounts
high on the head In q heap marvellous
to behold. She dons q pair Of French
boots with heels 80 high one wonders
they do not cripple the foolish wearer
after the days comfort In slipshod
slippers. She sallies forth with stately
tread (''Solomon In all his glory was
never so gorgeously arrayed'O, ever
closely attended by a servant, who Is
expected to attend to her most trivial
needs, such as carrying her purse,
handkerchief, or any trihe she may
purchase.
In the early evening she repairs to
the promenade to enjoy little music
or a mild Irritation, the latter being
confined discreetly to sighs, eyes and
possibly following footsteps. So pass
the days In this land OF Incidence for
the women-days go by In monotonous
round, year In and year out
AS for the men, they omit the mass,
which the women always attend, their
desbabille covered by the long black
mantua-covering, indeed, many omis-
sions as regards neatness Of toilet
They attend "a little" to any business
they may have during the middle OF the
day, but most diligently to the opera,
the promenade and the gaming table
for the night. Gambling is a national
habit. In most Of the SWEETEST classes
OF Valparaiso and Santiago the gaming
table is regularly set out and forms the
most important feature Of private en-
tertainments, like the baccarat OF
Great Britain, which some time ago
plunged his now Royal HighnesS OF
England into such torrid water. Even
the poorest poems and raggedest gam
ins may be seen at all hours betting
nuclios and centavos (the pennies and
QICkelS OL LDlS country Win dS AANSA
eagerness as the wealthy mine owner
stakes his golden ounces. The tallest
gambling that ever came under the
writer's observation took place on a
steamer plying between Copeapo and
Talcahuano, when a man who had re-
Gently struck 1t rich IN the Atacama
mines lost $4,000 in a single night.
There is a law against gambling. but
well!
In regard to an American wrestling
with the mysteries OF Chilean house
keeping, I can give you slight in
sight into my own We engaged a
cook, who promised faithfully to come
on a certain morning, retaining our
predecessors man servant-neither OF
whom spoke a word OF English, while
we, unfortunately. were equally ignor-
ant Of Spanish. We took possession on
the day appointed, but, "a Ia Frisco. T"
no cook appeared. There was nothing in
the house but groceries and bread, as
at the moment we were unable to buy
anything. being unable to speak the
language OF traffic, consequently the
gentlemen returned to the hotel, while