davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-03-06
TIo-to- Doto T;oS for fhe Home DreSSmdker===By X

ira amount, and draw the direct line
as for gathers, but to cut a good
turning above it. Then arrange the
spaces in the following manner:
Measure along the line one inch
from the neck and three-quarters from
the armhole corners. From each of
the first and third tucks; mark
the center of the space remaining,
measure one inch each way for the
middle tuck, making them equal dis
tances apart.
If shoulder should be too small to
leave at least half an inch between the
edge of one tuck and the stitching of
the next, it will be prettier to make
the tucks less wide.
Arrange them in their respective
folds, either pinning or lacking. Then
lay the plain pattern on the inside and
carefully cut only the paper under
and between the tucks by it, after
which cut the tucks themselves
straight across from the stitching
points. Do the same for the back,
when the line will appear as in the
larger one in Diagram ?. The material
is, of course, cut carefully to all the
zigzags, and in this way the shoulder
edges may be stitched before the
tucks are made If the seams are
we'll pressed. the effect is infinitely
smarter than when the tucks are
stitched before the shoulders are
joined, i'll which case they often dc
not meet nicely.
The illustration shows three tuckS
down the upper parts of the sleeve:
and three around the lower parts.
As rule. they are made less deer
than those on the waist, three-quar
tiers of an inch being ample TO be il
accordance with the inch ones.
To allow for these. four and a hal
inches Zone and half for each tuck
extra are required respectively on TIL
width and length.
Diagram III. shows the plain shirt
sleeve, and the necessary increase a
the fold for the lengthwise tucks, ex
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-03-06

When large amount of extra width
is added to front for fulness, it is
as we'll to fold over piece of the
lower edge of the pattern, as illus
trated by f, to reduce the width at the
waist. Judgment must be used, as
what would be a bulky amount in fan
mel or thick linen would not be at all
too much in chiffon or anything of
similar texture.
For an ordinary amount of fulness,
six inches are usually allowed from
A to A, about four and a quarter be-
ing apportioned TO the shoulder and
the remainder to the front of the neck,
as in the diagram.
The amount measured may vary,
but the manner of measuring and
keeping the points strictly level is in
variable.
This applies practically to pleats,
but for these the edge has to be zig
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-03-06

it be taken downstairs in safety. This
superstition is also common in
France and Germany, and even in
some parts of this country
Another English superstition is that
the baby who does not cry when it is
christened will have bad luck all
through its life. If the infant insists
on being good, the mother pinches it
to make the cry come. {.
In Spain the women say that baby
under year old should not be allowed
to look in mirror; otherwise it will
grow up proud and naughty.
Most mothers are very much alarm
ed when their babies fall out of bed
or off their laps, but in India the wo-
men think it is an excellent omen. In
Ireland there is a similar superstition.
which says that unless baby falls out
of bed four times before it is a year
old it will be hopeless idiot.
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-03-06
A Christian Japanese Statesman.

In no country in the world is there
more complete religious federation
than, in Japan. 1t. is not generally
known that several OF the high officials
in the Mikados service are converts
to Christianity.
The president of the Lower House
of the Japanese Parliament, which was
recently dissolved because it censured
the Cabinet for not being more vigor-
Gus in the negotiations with Russia, is
one of the leading members of the
Presbyterian Church in Japan. His
name is Rataoka Kenkichi.
At various stages of his political
career, his friends have urged him 10
resign his church offices, in order that
he might promote his public career,
but he has consistently refused TO do
so. His career has seemingly never
suffered; he is to-day one of the lead
ing statesmen in Japan.
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-03-06

neck, to make the fulness extend all
across the front of the waist.
This is very simple to cut out, al
though most amateurs make mistake
in allowing for the fitness, with the
result of misfitting shoulders.
To allow for fulness on line at an
exact right angle with, say, the selvage
or 1engthwise edge, it is only neces-
sary to extend it further in the same
direction But where it has the least
slope, it will, if this is done, be at a
more acute angle, when gathered,
than the original pattern, and conse-
quently will not INT.
To increase the length of the sloped
line and guarantee that the longer one,
when gathered, will lie exact to the
original slope, it is only necessary
to keep the corners parallel. Diagram
l. shows the front pattern placed on
the material at six inches from and
even with the sewage. The other
points, a, B and Q, are carefully meas
ured straight across from the original
ones-A six inches, B and o respec-
lively four and a quarter. The shout
der lire is redrawn from ID TO the new
B, and, when gathered, will be ex-
actly to the original line.
From B to o the lines are identical,
because at that part of the neck edge
there must be no gathers; and from
O TO a the small curve is extended on
the same plan as the shoulder line, and
will be correct when gathered.
The margin is used for turning un-
der. and such waist is usually made
to hook invisibly down the middle OF
the front, the opening being concealed
amid the fulness
If the waist is TO have a pleat OF
stitched band down the front this is
allowed, and the gathering from Q
10 A may either be dispensed with
or there may be Just little beyond
where the edge of the box-pleat viii
set. On no account must the side
of the neck be gathered, or it viii
make an ugly little puff.
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-03-06

is necessary to run them from the un-
der side of the tuck to gradually ease
the larger part on to the smaller one,
when they can be made to set very
satisfactorily 1t is almost impossible
to do this if they are run from the
upper side.
The waist, as illustrated, does not
fasten down the front, but under the
first tuck down the left side. There
fore, in order to cut the fronts out
from the pattern obtained, as shown
in Diagram H. the right one must have
fold down the center. The over
tapping part should extend TO a two.
inch margin beyond the first tuck
marked on the diagram by all arrow
The left front needs to be cut turn
ing beyond the seam of the first tuck
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-03-06

and then once or twice inside that
again. This makes really effective
trimming, and the collar and cuffs may
be made to match, Stimulating two or
three tucks done in the same way.
The sleeves, when tucked, are made
just like ordinary plain ones. 1t is
always smarter to make the wrist
bands fit snugly, which generally i'm
plies fastening. For a trimmed band
it is usually sufficient. to leave about
an inch of the sleeve seam open. This
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-03-06
It's Worth While
to Cultivate
the "Nuta" Salad

Another dish worth cultivating is a
salad, though cooked, called ''nuta. .
This is made OF CLANS, rape tops and
onion with a sauce of bean paste, rice,
mustard and soy, rubbed into a brown
liquid. These dishes, including a
sponge cake called CASTILLO, and sup
posed to have been introduced by the
Spaniards centuries before, every Jap
anese woman, whatever her rank, is
supposed TO know how TO prepare.
As they use neither milk nor butter,
from our point of view, their kitchen
is handicapped. Another popularity
of the Japanese menage is that there
is no common table. Each person has
his own little table and separate
dishes. AS many different people, so
many different dinners. In this man
ner the wife and daughter of even a
"daimio" might serve her husband or
a guest without great labor.
In even the highest families, the
daughter of the house is expected to
get up earlN air the futons on which
they sleep and the night kimonas and
put them away, sweep the mating,
help with the dishes, then go to her
sewing, while the wife acts as her
husbands valet and looks after the
comfort of her mother-in-law.
The women of the house do all the
sewing. The women of the house
may include couple of ''mekake,' or
wife's understudies. The Crown
Prince of Japan is the son of me
kake," but was formally adopted by
the Empress. who is childless.
All the world. even the newborn
baby in Japan, wears the kimona, and
the fashion never changes. There IS
no elaborate making of undergar-
ments; they do not wear them. A
petticoat is a straight piece OF stuff
wound around the body, and it more
warmth is needed, wear two kimonas.
Sewing. however. Is carefully taught.
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-03-06

must be neatly
hemmed. Either
hook the band edge
to edge, or sew
buttons on one
edge and make
5 traigh hit loops
along the other.
Where buttoning
through seems
more desirable,
make a small open
ing at the back of
the wrist in the
sleeve, and place
the ends of the cuff
or band there. Al
ways set the great
er part of the full
ness to the back of
the wrist.
Many people ex-
perience great diff
fculty in setting a
sleeve into the
armhole. The seam
should be about
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-03-06

two and half inches in front of the
side seam of the waist. In lacking III
the under half, hold the srrnhole 10 and
the sleeve away from you, and reverse
the order for the upper half. when the
sleeve should be eased. III there is
fulness, don't place it all 10 one point,
bat LET it gradually lessen from the
shoulder tip equally each way.
In the waist illustrated, the effect
of the tuck overlapping the shoulder
seam is very becoming.
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-03-06
Novel Opera Glasses at Last.

For many years Dame Fashion has
adhered TO the stereotyped mother-of-
pearl opera glasses, or the lorgnette,
white and gold being the favorite.
Now comes an innovation which will
please women who have an eye for
color.
A pair of opera glasses seen recently
was of violet porcelain, and the mount
ings were silver Another pair was OF
red porcelain, delicately mounted with
pearls and silver fiiigree.
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-03-06

gag in order to make it perfect when
completed. 1t is, therefore, better not
TO cut the shoulder in a direct line.
Diagram l. shows the shoulder sec
tons cut for tucks. They are an inch
wide. Each tuck will, therefore, take
up two inches, the three neoessitate
six inches extra being allowed from B
to B.
The easiest plan is TO allow the ex-
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-03-06
For Milady's Writing Room.

Cocoanut fibre scrap baskets are the
latest novelties for the writing-room.
They are made in the shape of large
jardiniere, and are rich in coloring.
The fibres cross and recross in a
labyrinthine design which is most at
tractive. A large bow of ribbon is
tied around the basket and attached
To one side
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-03-06

rN THIS lesson instructions will be
. given for making waists with
i tucks. gathers or pleats from a
plain shirt-waist pattern.
The Illustration shows one with
three deep tucks going over each
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-03-06
Canvas Checks Popular for House
Accessories.

Mosaic toilet mats, table scarfs.
sideboard cloths and many house ac-
cessories are made of canvas, which
comes in checks. Blue and white is
a favorite combination. 1t is quite a
fad to place a few cross stitches of
white on the blue checks, and vice
versa, when the embroidery is all
done. This gives the star effect.
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-03-06

This is mOistened with tea or soup.
and to eat 1t with chop sticks Is am
achievement. Cha" tea, is the water
OF life. 1t mOistens every transaction.
As Mr.. Wegg would say, 1t mellers
the organ. 1t Is worth noting that
the Japanese do not make it with boil
ing water. The water is allowed to
lose its first fervor, SO that the tannin
IS not extracted. Nor does the tea
stand. The pale, greenish liquid is
immediately poured off. This is prob
ably why the tea does not make its
drinkers nervous.
While speaking of articles of food,
some other things are worth mention
ing. One of these Is bean curd
"tofu," a white substance that is
sliced and fried like mush, with soy
Tor flavor. This curd Is so nutritious
and so cheap that an American who
lives III japan suggested its being in
troduced into this country as a food
Soy Is a brown liquid made from the
black bean and Is said to be the foun-
dation OF Worcestershire sauce. 1t
enters into almost all cooking, and
most agreeably.
Once being III a remote corner of
Toxic, the hour for eating arrived. 1t
was impossible to get home III
couple OF hours. But hunger inspires
courage, and seeing a restaurant with
the unusual sight OF carcass at the
door, i took off my shoes and entered
\ number of men were squatted about.
The sight of foreigner and a woman
was, indeed, a novelty. The whole
assemblage took an active and genial
interest IN my luncheon, giving the
maid advice and suggestion.
She brought my mat and brazier
OF Goals on which was a patina that
might have come from Pompei. it was
so lovely. In this she placed some
wafer-like slices of meat from the beef
at the door, and pouring in the soy,
gave me some brass tongS and left me
to cook it myself, while she arranged
my little table and brought my bowls
OF rice soup and relishes. 1t was
charming, a meal 10 be remembered,
and meat thus cooked in soy some
thing 'Japanesy" that we might we'll
ir0DOgf
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-03-06

shoulder and sloping towards the cen
ters at the waist at back and front
These tucks may be converted inso
box-pleats by opening and refoiding
them. or the extra amount OF mate
rial allowed for them may be used
in gathers.
In the latter case. there are usually
a few gathers also at the front OF the
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-03-06
6heQ qsthqtitR susekeqpers Of Japan If=5Ejff
BY Mary Gay
Humphreys

XVRHEN o Yen San, the Hon
NA/ orable Miss Dollar, cut the
w tender, young onions for
The Black Hills union and western stock review. [volume] (Rapid City, S.D.) 1904-19??, 1904-08-19
CHAPTER XIX.
nnIrH,s nHl,ISIoN.

All that day Max lay still and list.
less In semi conscious condition, on
the couch they had hurriedly prepared
for him; his father seated beside him
Iii troubled silence. his ears strained to
catch the slightest sound indicating
pain or uneasiness in the patient.
In the afternoon the doctor came
again and declared his patient was do
ing well as could be expected and that
no fears for his safety need be enter
tanned. . 4. "A
with this assurance Lady Bysshe
took her niece for an airing during the
early afternoon In an open carriage.
There was no 1nistaking the fact that
Edith was Interested in Goeffrey Bys-
She, though whether she was In love
with him or not her aunt could not say.
The sso2e objectssn that could be urged
against him was his age, which was
nearly double her own: otherwise he
was eligible, for he had already dis
iinguished himself at the bar and ~
the house, and 1t was probable ias would
one day sit on the bench. III had an
Income independent Of his recession.
She declared him to be high -1ninded
and she thought him man OF deep
feeling who would make an excellent
husband to the. woman he loved; and
that he loved Edith. I.edy Bysshe had
5fStae dcabs
she remarked as they
drew near homo q Thick WlH ask
The Black Hills union and western stock review. [volume] (Rapid City, S.D.) 1904-19??, 1904-08-19
Wolf Fish CAUGHT in PUGET Sound.

Seattle Observation-Disclosures: One OF
the greatest freaks of fish family, an
oyster cracker or catti. also known as
the wolf fish is now i'll The possession
of the Morgan Oyster company. 1t
is one of the most curious specimens
of fish ever taken. Only two others
of its kind, SO far as known, have been
caught in Puget Sound. This one was
caught in the oyster beds between
Chico and Silverdale, Port Washington.
bay. by T.. Hoover He had out about
100 set lines last "Wednesday, and a
good sized fish hung up on one of the
hooks. Along came the oyster cracker,
and, piratelike swallowed fish hook and
all. 1t was a strong line, likewise a
strong hook, and the pirate was unable
to extrcate himself. Hoover brought
the strange nhabitant Of the deep to
this city.
This particular oyster cracker has a
hea! like a sleeps. 1t is fully as large.
The jaws are massive and studded with
teeth with the strength and durability
OF steel. With them it brushes oyster
shells and crabs with the ease that a
hog devours an acorn.
The wolf fish is six feet and one inch
long and weighs twenty-five pounds.
When cleaned for preservation oyster
shells. mole fish, crabs and other small
sea- inhabitants We're found in the oys-
ter crackers stomach.
This wolf fish has six sets of molars
one for each upper and lower jaw and
one in the center above and below
| Its front teeth are long and pointed
| The back teeth. or crushers, are thick
and shorter.
The Black Hills union and western stock review. [volume] (Rapid City, S.D.) 1904-19??, 1904-08-19
9@e9e9eD99e33G9G9G9e 18G0e5G$sG9DG969

Godfrey down from Saturday till Mon
day, next week. What do you sa.
DEAR"
He may not be able to come; he
must have so many social engage
ments,' Edith answered, striving TO APP
pear unconCerned.
But he always seems to enjoy him
self here. and he brightens us up. And
| am sure we want something to en-
ivcn us after Maxs effort to introduce
another tragedy to the house."
At the end OF her drive Edith APP
pea"ed more tired and lstless than when
she set out. and leared heavily on her
steps leading to the entrance. On
reaching the hall both paused while
Lady Bysshe inquired about Max of
Urbano. Who was just crossing to the
study. The valet answered with his
usual deferent!al manner; but his
SCARED face, the brightness of his pen
etrating glance, his mishapen and
dWarf-likc figure. expressed such hat
red and malisnity to the girl whom he
believed had refused Max, and whom he
blamed for bringing him close to death,
that, suddenly she gave q little cry
and tainted in her aunts arms.
The latter, who had not noticed the
mans vind!ctive look. which had been
quick as lightning, called to him FOR
help, when they carried her to Il great
ottoman where they strove to revive
her Their efforts We're unsuccessful
for some time during which Lady Bys-
she became alarmed ana sent for the
doctor. BY the time he arrived Edith
had regatned consciousness and was
laughing and crying Historically.
ut was foolish of me to faint again"
she said, but | got Il fright. | had no
idea | was so weak minded; but we
never know ourselves" she added
smiling!y.
What frightened you. dear child?"
her aunt asked.
You will think it Is nonsense. and so
1t is; but lrbanos face seemed to wear
Il horrld mask. like one of those wicked :
ly grotesque things Japanese actors
wear when they play tragedy. 1t was
only my imagination, of course, but
Your nerves are playing you sad
tricks" her aunt told her.
Il am sure they are" Edith agreed,
Il must be weaker than l thought"
Ludy Bys.he was alarmed by her
nieces condition, for Edith had up to
this been remarkable for her calmness
and self-control, and as far as her aunt
knew. had never tainted or been hys-
terical before. The shock she had got
at the probability of her own death,
and at the sight OF what she believed
was MaXs suicide, must have been
much greater than was first apparent.
Doctor Hopkins could only advise
perfect quiet, give tonics and leave
nature to reassert her strength, a pro-
ceeding which Lady Bysshe thought
the most sensible.
The Black Hills union and western stock review. [volume] (Rapid City, S.D.) 1904-19??, 1904-08-19
WORLDS BIGGEST BANK,
Will Result From a Combination OF
London institutions.

In London a banking combination is
now in progress that will put the two
largest New York banks far in the
background. This is the combination
OF the biggest of the London banks and
the one that ranks thirteenth on tic
list, or the Lloyds bank, limited, and
the Manchester and Liverpool District
Banking company. limited. The new
combined London bank will be the
largest banking institution in the
world, and will overshadow even the
big government banks, like the Bank Of
England and those of the French. Ger
man and Russian nations.
The striking fact about that COM
bination is that it is a consolidation of
the most important of city banks and
the largest country banks. In other
words. it is an alliance between the
two largest of the types that handle
this distinctive business.
Banking laws here and in England
are radically different. The privilege OF
the English banks to have branches is
denied to our national banks. and this
is vital influence in bringing about
mammoth banks abroad. while it re-
stricts the similar growth of American
institutions. State banks in Now York
and most Of the other state have this
privilege, but the charters of these are
not so liberal and are not regarded with
the same favor as those Of national
banks, which also have the valuable
and profitable privilege to issue notes
and to receive government deposits.
Many of the state banks have Il num-
Der of branches. and trust companies
locally and in other sections are devel-
Oping on the same lines. The largest
| number of branches of any of our state
banks is very small as compared 10
those maintained by the English banks.
The largest here has less than twenty
| branches. While one of the banks in the
| big London combination has ninety
| five, and the other almost as many.
The Black Hills union and western stock review. [volume] (Rapid City, S.D.) 1904-19??, 1904-08-19
A Psalm Sinqina NEGRO,

81 hope the old confeds had royal
time at their reunion in Nashville
said a representative from PennsyI.
vania. who spent a day in Washington
this week.
And l want to say right now that
no man who ever heard the old-tine
rebel yell can ever forget it. More than
once that cussed yell made my hair
stand on end.
II remember that While we were
around Nashville we got hold Of first
class contraband negro. He had a de-
cided religious leaning and was shout
ing Methodist as they call it down
south. The negro was very Jealous in
the cause and his lungs We're not the
weakest He kept up a continuous
singing.
'One day asked him to cut his notes
down a pitch or two, or he might be
the cause Of letting the rebs down on
us. He ceased for time and then be-
gan:
Let those refuse to sing
Who never knew the Lord;
But servants of the Heavenly King
Should sound their joys abroad"
THAT niger had me and l told him
to go ahead and yell his blamed head
off if he wished to-"