The San Francisco call., 1904-06-05

tints, Just as they once did, and you
SEQ pink and gray and blue and gray
and red and blue and pink and blue
and all the old time combinations en-
joying as great a popularity as they
ever had In the long ago.
But particularly IN the neckS OF
gowns does one note the revival re-
semblances. The new necks are cut
to a point and are either filed IN with
a chemisette or left open and slightly
tapering down to a point Both ways
are good.
For day wear the woman OF tho
present day does not 60 in for the low
neck. And so, during the day, she ad-
justs a high-neck bertha IN her gowns
Or she puts on a chemisette with
high stock. Or she may wear one OF
those arrangements which have a high
neck and long. full pulled sleeves. but
which are not finished of around the
belt line. There are many ways OF
filling IN q low neck. Or, IL her neck
be very pretty, she viii have her gown
made with q slightly pointed effect and
will wear It that way.
But for evening the woman Of the
times likes to have her neck pointed
and rather low. She likes to cut the
neck Of her gown down to V IN the
middle OF the front and a V In the
back And then she finishes II In a
new way. She takes deep lace ana
RalnerS IL anu 6eWS II dIOuuQ Nn9 ncCk
Of her gown
The girl who does not understand the
art OF shirring a piece OF lace In her
neck should get busy at once. She must
learn how to take 1t and turn over the
edge and how to run a stout shtrr
string in the doubled-Over edge. This
makes a full heading for the lace.
The prettiest lace necks are trimmed
with lace which comes down in points,
a long point and a short one, with
string running through the heading.
This lace is then sewed around the
neck, which takes a very pretty shape.
Right in the middle OF the front the
points Of lace should be arranged to
hang down to the belt line.
And there Is the very old-faShtoned
way of running a piece OF lace with
ribbons and setting it around the neck
Of the gown. There can be three OF
four rows Of the ribbon, and the ends
are then tied in pretty little bows right
in the middle of the front.
1t will be noted from a study OF the
fashions that they are extremely fem
inine. There Is nothing severe about
them, and the woman who needs little
softening touches-and most women
do-can easily find them in the gowns
of the summer.
Now, in mentioning the fashionable
features, one must not neglect TO say
that there will be a revival Of the pol
onafSe. Indeed, 1t is already pretty
well revived, for one sees many gown
trimmed so that one cannot tell
whether there Is a tunic or not,
whether there Is a semi skirt or only
one skirt, nor whether there Is a pol
onafse or merely a simulated over
dress. When such Is the case, then II
is not out OF the way to predict that
the overskirt and the polonaise are not
far off,
But in one way the wartime girl OF
1904 rebels from the ideas OF her pre-
decessor, the wartime girl OF 1850. And
this is in the hoop-skirt; for the war
time girl OF to-day absolutely refuses
TO don such an article. II take that
which is comfortable and practleal,
she saws. But I discard that which
is disfiguring and that which Is un-
comfortable"
THE girl OF to-day stiffens her skirts
with silk Innings and, under the dress
skirt, she wears petticoats OF Six Win
many ruffies upon them She also
wears a drop silk lining, for many OF
the skirts are both lined and rurmSned
with a silk drop skirt
But IL is upon her marvellous SIX pet
ticoat that the girl Of the period relies.
This is long and is trimmed with ruI-
fle which will make any dress stand
ont and which answers all the pur-
poses Of a hoop skirt, without its ag-
eressiveness. The silk skirt gives the
comfortable rustic and is prettier far
than the old hoop of bones and steel
There is no sign that the hustle viii
rafr1rr, but this was a feature OF later
davs-not OF 1860. The hustle was
much more fashionable in 1870 than in
1850. while in 1880 there was no gown
worn without its hustle.