davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-23
FOR SUMMER GOWNS.
Button Embroidery is New Trim
ming.

AAAAB.
Written for The Evening Star.
From Switzerland comes a new trimming
which is to be known as button embroidery
If all that is claimed for it is true. 1T fills
long-felt want, for these embroideries are
alleged to be practically tndestruetibie. The
trimming is unique in season when null
titude of designs seem to cover every posi-
BILE field for originality.
The basis of the button embroidery IS
apparently set of tiny rings. much like
those used in making point lace. These are
arranged in various patterns and covered
with embroidery that their existence can
only be matter of conjecture. In some cases
the cloth In the center of the ring Is cut or
stamped out; in others, 1t is allowed to re-
main. The embroidered rings are connected
by embroidered patterns, such as eonven-
tionalized flowers and scrolls.
Deep or narrow 6ounce embroideries i'm
fine swiss or heavy materials collar and
cuff sets and special waist sets, are manu-
featured of this embroidery. A founce
that Will do away with the necessity for
gathering is shown. made of a circle OF
swiss, the embroidery being along the outer
border. The round center is intended to be
the size of the skirt or pettieoat although
it may be cut out to accommodate a wider
one. The plain edge of the circle is stitched
to the draperies. The embroidery then falls
in folds. much more graceful than the ordi-
nary founce. A manifest advantage of this
form is the ease with which 1t may be laun-
dered.
A stock collar recently seen was made of
button embroidery in a grape pattern. II
was, of course, rather open, and designed to
wear about the bare neck with an evening
gown. The collar itself was high and had
four tabs, one In the back and front and
one on each side. Pale blue ribbicene was
laced in and out of the embroidery In an IN
tricate design. and gave smart finish.
This fad of wearing transparent lace COZ
lars with decoilette gowns is growing, es-
pecially with those not blessed with a plump
neck. The bit Of lace and the pointed tabs
often cover irregularities which beads and
chains cannot do.
Dainty opera and slipper bags of button
embroidery over colored silks will also be
popular as the season advances. Nor will
:hls embroidery be confined to white lace
and fabrics alone. All the popular shades
will have button embroidered laees to
match These will be made up over silks
and mousseiines to match.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-23

the back. under aruf paenes iaud small
section Of the fronts show the tucked linen.
TucksT and! Lace.
Lawn Of the sheerest quality has its adj
herents. especially fppaafternoon blouses
and fer wear with lightweight wash or
silk skirts. A pretty shirt waist of white
lawn which closes In the back has a shallow
yoke OF Irish crochet medallions in dia-
mond-shaped design. From this the tucked
lawn runs through to the bust line like a
secondary yoke, and below this the entire
blouse is tucked /. crosswise in half-inch
tucks. The sleeves are laid in pin tueks
Chef, and the full, Bishop effect is gathered
into tight, narrow cuff of the same lace.
Madeira embroidery, combined with ba-
tiste. builds another dainty afternoon waist.
deep, round yoke is Simulated by the ap-
piled design CT circular Madeira insert,
two inches in diameter. Running through
these and radiating like spokes from the
hub of wheel with the collar as the CEN
ter. are six inset bands of the embroidery,
ending In elaborate designs, which strike
just below the bust line In the front and
deep down upon the sleeve. Tiny tucks run
below the yoke for a few inches and the
bottom of the blouse Is gathered smoothly
into fitted belt.
Embroidery Cuffs.
The sleeves are somewhat narrow. by
comparison with many of the season 8
blouses. and are tucked simply into plain,
round cuff of the embroidery.
The girl who has a couple of pretty but
simply tucked waists left from last season
can make good use of them by applying a
yoke of embroidery or lawn, inset with en-
broidery. This yoke need not be sewed into
the shirt waist at the cost of mach ripping
and fitting, but can be tackled over the
tucking or pleating if the latter is not too
heavy.
The yoke must run far over the shoulder,
several inches at least. and end in a point.
The front may be pointed, or it may SIM
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-23

PARIS, April 0, 1904.
Paris Is gay with the life and brightness
OF her spring season. These months at the
capital are attracting each year a larger
number of smart Americans, who have
charming apartments on the fashionable
avenues in which they entertain lavishly
and spend much of their time selecting
toilets for the London June season and the
summer campaign at Newport.
In the artistic world the election of Caro-
lus-Duran to succeed the late NJ. Gerome as
a member of the French Academy of Fine
Arts was an interesting event. One of the
traditions of the academy is that candi-
dates are never elected on their first pre-
sentation, and it is curious fatality that
makes Carolus- Duran Gerome's successor
as ne was systematically baked in his at
tempts to enter the Beaux Arts by the man
whose seat he now occupies.
Above the flotsam and jetsam of other
things there Is always in the feminine mind
the Important item of clothes, and fascinat-
ing costumes of spring are worthy or
serious consideration. 1t has been said that
SKINNER garments are far less expensive
and tiresome than winter ones" This re-
mark. like many of the good old adages,
IS put on the retired list by the present ex-
travagance of summer furbelows not that
the amount spent on clothes is criterion.
a woman In sables may appear far less dis
tingiished than another in a plain coat and
skirt. 1t Is singular, considering all the
money spent on clothes and the lovely fab
RIGS to be found on the shop counters, how
few really well-dressed women are met IN
the ordinary way. Consequently a mon
daihe whose toilets are always in good taste
demands admiration and instant attention.
The fact is that perfect dressing, like every
Thing else is an accomplishment sometimes
natural sometime as acquired, and, no matter
how we'll a gown fits. it is the attention to
detail that counts. Only the few realize
this and follow the necessary fntricacieS
throughout a toilet which makes a success
full ensemble for, however extravaganza q
woman may be with regard to her ward
robe, unless she has the happy faculty of
put In the shade by her poorer sister who
Knows how to do justice to what she has on
Make Study of Modes.
To be we'll dressed today one must make
a serious study Of modes. as many of them
are SO exaggerated as to be almost gro
tAsque on the wrong woman. The ateliers
are full of patrons asking whether there is
nothing newer than the full skirts and the
large sleeves, and coutuieres are assuring
the timid they need not wear gathered
skirts unless they like them. as there are
lots of becoming JupeS with fiat plaits and
others with few gathers at each side of
the front. which increase the straight
frontedness of the figure.
- 1t may surprise the unthinking to know
that the Parisiennes accept nothing new
from their dressmakers until they have
seen it in public and judged it's good points
ders for her early summer toilet is almost
a copy of her winter costume made in a
thinner materials In truth, in the best es-
tablishments In the Rue de la Paix, Place
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-23
WILL NOT GIVE It Up
Shirt Waist Costumes in Pop
ularity.
WOMEN LIKE THEM
ARE CALLED BLoUsEs ACROSS
THE WATER.
Joy Of Every One Who Likes
Variety of Costumes
New Hints.

Written for The Evening Star by Harriet Hawley.
II you are English, you call it blouse.
If you are really and truly American. it
is just plain shirt waist. By either name,
the feminine world loves IT as well.
Dame Fashion has done her best sec
onded by famous modistes, to sound the
doom of the separate waist, but each sum-
mer this economical and altogether salts
factory feature of the hot-weather ward
robe rises triumphant above criticism.
Inasmuch there is a distinct vogue for
common tint in skirt and waist, all the
inventive skill of designers and manufac-
turers has aimed to carry this arrange
ment into the summer blouses. There is a
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-23

Vendome and Rue Taitbout the variety of
the seasons styles lies in the detail OF
trimming and not in novelty of shape.
This is to be a great Val lace season,
both in the real varieties and in limitations,
some OF which IL takes expert to detect,
with mechlin, d'alencon and chantflly as
second favorites. Lace will be used with
plofusion on evening and smart day gowns.
either gathered arranged In straight
lines or In elaborate scroll and floral de-
signs. On linen frocks the renaissance and
macrame laces will be most employed, as
these heavier examples are appropriate Tor
the stouter weaves of linens now so fash
iorable. Finely plated gauze ribbons are
also In demand, and a lovely summary
trim inning Is composed of lace ruches with
tiny rosebuds or small blossoms running
through the center. The skirts of silk and
crepe de sole are trimmed with several
founces of lace. with simple and effective
arrangement of the same on the corsage.
Suit Your Own Style.
/ am often asked What Is the color of
the season. To tell woman to wear
what suits her best is not the business of
an authority on fashion. but I should say
out of the galaxy of beautiful shades which
are permissible this season choose a color
that matches your hair or eyes and shows
them off TO the best advantage. The great
authorities here are declaring for soft
shade OF sage green. for Du Barry. a rich
crimson. for all the nuances of white and
every tone or blue.
Variety of Fabrics.
In materials every day seems to bring
forth, like spring flowers, new beauties.
The latest is satin very like the old
liberty with greater body and less luster.
Pongees so delightful for the shirt waist
dress in the new designs have colored pat
terms on solid background. These,
though are not so good as the fiat colors
for an entire suit. Barge de sole must
not be missing from a list of new dress
goods, as IL is novelty which is sure to be
al proved of fashion 1t Is glossy and has a
slight rib. Then there are cotton voiles
as thin and as sheer as chiffon. together
with all kinds OF mercerized stuffs. Butch
ers' linen Is made up into morning frocks
and separate shirt waists. and for tailorish
effects II Is IDEAL For rather dressy MORN
ing functions there are embroidered linens
and finely stitched and tucked batistes.
embroidered hannels, serges, canvases and
spotted delaines for cool days.
Here Is something new in the way of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-23
How to Pose for q Photograph.

A curious fact relative to a woman's per-
sonaiity is that the TWO sides of her face
are not in accord one with the other. In
other words. every woman has two faces.
and one shows certain characteristics which
the other does not. and each contradicts
the other. a,
The left side il nearly always the pref
tier, although itawould take a very keen
eye to discern any difference. But it ID
worth while to remember this when pos
ing for ones photograph.
The moral of this 10 OBVIOUS The left
side of the face showing to far better adj
vantage than the right. 1t is evidently ones
duty to keep the good side turned toward
an observer.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-23
HER 1904 FOOTWEAR
When She Has Fads in
Stockings and Gloves.
THE DAINTY FIXINGS
A SATIN LINED BOX FOR SLIP
PERS AND TIES.
Even Her Darning Bag is Thing
Of Beauty as Well as
Service.
Written for The Evening Star.

Written for The Evening Star.
Apropos of the old saw that you can al
ways judge lady by her shoes, the sum-
mer girl of 1904 is trying to live up to
standard which will warrant her claim to
this badge of gentility. If she must be
economical, the fastidious shoe girl prefers
to practice the virtue in some other d.
rection. for her hosiery and footwear must
be faultless.
Such dainty creature as she is, this girl
who runs to fads in stockings and shoes!
No miser ever counted his gold with more
satisfaction than she does the contents Of
her hosiery bag and shoe box.
This voluminous bag. by the way is prac-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-23
To Clean White Ribbon.

There Is only one right way to do up
white ribbons which have become soiled.
Lay the ribbon on a table and scrub 1t.
using water and brush with stiff bristles
When clean rinse 1t under the spigot
squeezing out the water between the fin
gers without creasing the material, and
hang it over line. When it is dry the rib
bon will be free from wrinkles, fresh and
new looking
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-23
A Look in Time.

1t is settled fact that any woman who
wishes to appear well dressed must have
a species of spring cleaning of her ward
robe and its contents Pettieoat frills.
gloves yeils neckties and collars must be
sorted. and whatever needs the attention
of the dyer or cleaner must be sent off
In good time.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-23
Some Taste.

From the Brooklyn Life.
Mandy. dye rec'lect how Henry Virgins
used to play marbles all the time when he
was a little feller?"
Goodness, yes
We'll he hain't got over his hankerin'
after EN- yit: this piece in the paper bout
milIionaires' houses says he has one of the
finest elections Of italian marbles in the
hull world"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-23

Don't put all your allowance outside A
shabby petticoat kills the smartest gown.
Benson Bought saw mill, en-? What
are you going to do with 1t!
Jenson-'.Bring out new breakfast
food Town Topics.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-23

ulate narrow box pleat Of the embroidery
which runs down into the belt. If the
sleeves of last years blouse are too narrow,
open them. cut them into bell-shaped eff
feet. and fill in with very full sleeve ruff
fle of EMBROIDERY ~
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-23

dulged in by the woman who lays claim to
height. breath or ford coloring
If the face is plump. a shape which fol-
lows the outline of tie face Is to be avoided.
CATHERINE TALBOT
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-23
Love-.

From the Chicago Tribune
s'Richard Watson Glider says: % love Is
not summer mood.
well, what of IT? We might say also
that 1t isn't wheelbarrow on runners"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-23

Jealousy digs pit and SO defeats itself,
for in the end love tumbles in and Is swal-
lowed uptown Topics.
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1904-05-14
INTERSCHOLASTIC CONTEST
Stanley Hall to Meet Three Other
Schools in Defamation.

The department Of oratory at STAN
ley Hall has been attracting consid-
cradle attention Of late. Mention was
recently made Of a competitive de-
clamatory contest at Stanley HALL to
select student to represent the school
in an interscholastic contest for the
1902" challenge cup. Miss Grace
Hoffman Of White Sulphur Springs,
Mont, carried off the honors in the
preliminary contest, winnig. the Ger
trude Womelsdorff gold medal. she
will defend the cup for Stanley Hall
against representatives Of three other
school next Tuesday evening at the
First Unitarian church. A large num-
Der Of invitations have been issued
for the meeting, and contest OF UNI
usual interest is expected. The other
schools to be represented are the
Superior state normal and the Grin
nell and Rock Island, I'LL, high schools
The Stanley Hall oratorical depart
ment Is to present .As You Like IT,
as matinee, in the Lyceur1 theater
Friday, May q. The work has been
50 carefully and tf1oroly developed by
Miss Holden, the head Of the depart
ment, that an exhibition Of no ordi-
nary merit may be looked for.
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1904-05-14
ART SCHOOLS EXHIBIT
PICTURES DONE BY STUDENTS
ARE HUNG AND HONORS WILL
BE ANNOUNCED TONIGHT.

The exhibition of students work at
the Minneapolis schol Of Fine Arts
was hung to-day and the work of the
judges was completed. The list of
prize winners will be announced to-
night at the reception given by the
students to their friends and the mem
bers Of the Minneapolis Society of Fine
Arts,which is the patron Of tIeschools,
There are several scholarships open to
competition as reward for excellent
school work, as well as various prizes.
The principal prize Of the school is a
years scholarship in the Chase school
in New York. This year there were
but two competitors, Mabel Free and
Ernest Kullberg. REF
The exhibition is particularly strong
In the department Of design, in which
the classes under Miss Mary Moulton
Cheney have been very large and en-
thusiastic. The designs Include
wide variety. for book covers port
ifolios, wall paper and textiles, en-
abroideries, stencilled draperies,
stained glass, Illuminated books, head
and tail pieces, borders, monograms,
lettering, tiles, and china. An es-
specially interesting group Of designs is
for portfolios. These are done in
.eolors on linen in a design Of arrow
are Bessie swinburne, Alice McClel-
land. Marie L. Sphinx, Florence E.
Shook, Vera Stebbins, and Evelyn
Hope Perkins.
The competitive drawings of the
LAGOON group for the Hinkle scholar
ship are hung in a group. There are
eleven competitors. The drawings
from the antique show some very good
work. In the life drawings strong
work is shown by Ernest Kullberg,
Fred Johnson, Royal Rheem and
others. In the portrait drawings the
best work seems to have been done by
Ernest Kullberg and Miss N. Todd.
In the painting class among the
strong workers are Gustave Goetsch,
an instructor as well as a pupil In the
school,, Mrs Elizabeth Burke, Fred
Johnson. Royal Rheem's compost
lions. and sketches have great strength
and show fine discrimination Of
values. G. Linden also has some
| good work from the sketch class.
The exhibition will be open to the
public all next week and Is hung in
the art school rooms Of the public
| library. The showing reflects much
credit on the management Of Robert
Koehler, director Of the school, who
maintains high standard Of school
| work.
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1904-05-14

THE WEATHER
Forecast.

+. . . ( III i +.
Misunderstanding tonight probably fol-
lowed by showers In north portion; Sun
day warmer in west and south portions:
variable winds.
Wisconsin-Fair tonight and Sunday;
frost tonight; slightly warmer Sunday;
variable winds.
Upper Michigany-Party cloudy tonight
and Sunday, with possibly snow in north
portion tonight; frost tonight; variable
winds.
Iowa--Fair tonight following by in
creasing cloudiness Sunday afternoon;
warmer Sunday and in west portion to-
night; variable winds.
North Dakota-Fair and warmer to-
night; possibly showers Sunday; variable
winds.
South Dakota--Fair and warmer to-
night, probably followed by increasing
cloudiness Sunday; cooler In extreme west
portion Sunday; variable winds.
Montana-Possibly showers tonight
with cooler in west portion; Sunday part
" cloudy; fresh westerly winds.
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1904-05-14
LECTURE ON CONSUMPTION

Next Wednesday evening the anti
tuberculosis committee of the Associ-
ated Charities will give the second OF
it's series of talks on consumpt ion. Dr.
III. Longstreet Taylor Of st. Paul will
give his interesting and popular lee
ture, illustrated with stereopticon
views, at the Lyndale Congregational
church, Lake street and Aldrfch ave.
nue. S. DR.. Taylor's position as chair
man Of the state commission for con-
sumption and his long observance Of
the disease peculiarly fits him for his
task.
DR.. Alonzo Williamson OF this city,
also member Of the state commits
sion, will give short introductory
talk on the anti-tube rculosis commit
tee, its functions and purposes and
also FEW words on the subject Of the
evening. DR.. Henry Ulrich will pre-
side.
All over s years OF age will be well
come. The lecture is free. .s
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1904-05-14
CHARTER VOTE
AT PRIMARIES
COMMISSIONS PLAN TO INSURE
INTELLIGENT BALLOT.
They Have Canyassed the Situation
Carefully and Believe that, by An
nouncing a Special Election on Pr-
mary Day, Action Would Be Legal.

The charter commission proposes
that the new charter be voted on at
the primary election instead Of at the
general election, believing that In the
excitement Of national, state, county,
legislative, judicial and municipal
elections, the voters will be likely. to
overlook the charter.
There is some question as to the
legality of voting on the charter at
the primary election, which is no cleo
ton at all, but substitute for nomi-
mating conventions. Special elections
are prohibited in this city except to
fill vacancies In the Offices Of mayor
or alderman. There is an enabling
act authorizing the city council to
arrange for submission Of a charter
to the people at a general or special
election, but there is question wheth-
er this act itself is not unconstitutional
In that 1t goes beyond the constitution
of the state.
The lawyers on the charter COM
mission have discussed this question
and have concluded that the council
can designate any day it sees fit for
submission Of the charter. In order
to save the expense Of polling places
and election officials, the commission
suggests to the council the advisable
ity Of doubling up on the primary and
special charter election.
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1904-05-14
BRISTOL ACQUITTED
Jury Did Not Believe Accusation Of
Forgery.

Charles Bristol, charged with ut
tering forged check, was acquitted
yesterday, the jury remaining out not
more than half an hour.
Bristol, at one time a postoffice en-
ployee, was accused Of getting up q
bogus postoffice directory, and, while
engaged in this work Of securing and
passing a check of the Befnis Bag
company upon which the Endorsement
was forged. The defense made by the
accused was that when he secured the
check made payable to Postmaster
Hughes he gave it to man named
L. S. Collins. who later returned 1t In
dorsed with the postmaster's sigma
ture and with his own.
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1904-05-14
HARRIET POOL DEEP
Juvenile Waders VIII Find Water Far
Over Their Heads, 40

There is a big swimming pool in con-
nection with the new pavilion at Harriet.
This is not a wading pool nor even a
bathing pool, for the prevailing depth is
about eight feet, and that means that
swimmers only will find much pleasure
therein.
At the edge the water Is only two feet
deep, but the bottom drops off very rapid
ly to eight feet. Much criticism has been
heard over the arrangement Of the pool,
many urging that it should not have been
over five feet deep or even less than that,
in order to be safe for all bathers.
Those who want to wade and splash
about and keep in water not over their
depth must go to Lake Calhoun. where
the old lighthouses will be maintained as
of yore.
1t will cost rs cents to battle at Lake
Harriet. This charge will include the use
Of a dressing-room, bathing suit, soap and
towels. The charge will be the same if
the patrons bring their own suits, soap
and towels. The number Of dressing
rooms is said to be ample for the accom-
modations in the pool.