The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-03-06
Where the Himalayas Seem
to Be Overhead

ward to space unsounded SO high and awful does
it rise that the beholder far far away though it be-
must crane his neck to look toward its summit
Suddenly, high up the peak of the wall, there
startling something that is not light but
only Tightening of the heavy gloom.
Scarcely has the eye caught it before it has melted
into lilac-a lilac delicate, evanescent that It
to dissolve into unnameable tints even as one
looks. And then the lilac suddenly grows strong, and
lol it is pink And the pink burns into rose
The clouds part like riven veil; the rose burns
over all their high-hung masses and behold,
there clouds up there; they have vanished
and did not mark it; in their place, suspended in
high heaven, very heads, with silver mist.
wreathing deep below hangs the peak of the White
King of Neutrality-suspicious. Everest, 10000 feet high
and miles away. We looking clear across the
State of Nepai, and the peak seems to be almosI
over u.s.
Vast, unlmpaSSioned, pure; spotless in its solemn
beauty, mighty in its tender morning grandeur
you stand in a world that still is black and stricken
with night, and in that far-of play of pearl and
lapis-lazu you the tremendous mystery of the
day move a world that lies white and still
if this were, indeed the First Day, when terrible
voice spoke and said, Let there be light"
Not only Everest thus produces Natures Passion
Play at Darjeeling. Looking due north from the
mountain city, plucky, defiant Sikkm, over
eye sees Mount Kichnjunga. Twenty-eight thou
sand feet high IS its peak. Tanu and Kebru one
$4,000, the other $4,000 feet in air. CLEAN in the
morning, catching the suns burning eye while it is
still sunken deep below the horizon of the jewellers
of lower earth.
And you look at those peaks swimming in the
pure air. you realize that you looking upon the
truly virgin land of the world; for in all the
countless centuries since the Himalayan chain first
was piled cut into the hard, clear, blue sky OF
Monaghan ASIA through all the generations of man,
they have stood untarnished by human foot-un-
furnished, unassailabe, primeval.
Sometimes Mount Everest condescends to unveil
himself completely, and then he stands clear to sight
from peak to base to the people in Darjeeling
if they dwelling at his foot. Then the might
of the Hlmalayas seems very present thing in the
little town. the SUBMITS look down into the streets
and wherever turns the white mountains com
mand the day.
The visitor realizes then why this place, that
looks like Alpine village transpanted into Asia.
is called Darjeeling which means the Wide Island
of Meditation.
An island of meditation it is to-day. to which the
lama goes from Thibet. and the Hindu from the
south. A place of pilgrimage, it is, too for the
English, TO which they pod when the burning plain
has come near to conquering them
1t is refreshing the people, different
from the people of the plain In Darjeeling swag-
ger the strong tribesmen of the mountain States
huge and black and bearded. Wrapped in rags on
top of rags, and furs top of furs squat the ugly
slt-eyed men from cold snow bitten Thibet, with
pleasant articles of Thbetan demon worship, such
drums made from human skulls warranted to call
demons from the other world and delightful trump
made from human thigh bones.
In the half open bazaars sit with the skins Of
tigers, panhers sables, foxes and the beautiful long
haired leopards. High turbaned Kabulis offer
rugs and embroideries carried by hazardous noun
tain pass and ambushed dehle from far Bokhara.
The beauties of Darjeeling are the girls from
Bhotan, the neighboring mountain State They have
merry faces, full of dmples and CARRIED in glory
for though they do cultivate cleanliness motto
ably they do know how to set off their charms with
rich color
So Bhotan girl who presently will as Jour
eooe, is CARRIED in wine-red skirts. Turquoise ear
rings sometimes as long as inches, hang to her
shapely shoulders Her arms and wrists fes
TONED with brass and iron and shell bracelets, many
of them buried deeply into the flesh and intergrown
with IT, because the ornaments never removed
after they are put on in youth.
Silver chains hang over al. Some OF them serve
to grid up the dress. Others hold toilet articles.
chief among which IS broom with which the Bio
girls whisk each others hair the when
there is no baggage to move; for these magnificent
creatures are the baggage carriers of Darjeeling
The Bhotan men have been good enough TO turn
their folk into coolies. The female does all
sthe work, such carrying loads up and down the
mountains, Transporting goods and carrying bag
gage in Darjeeling
1t is cheaper than horses and the women appear
to thrive under it Certainly they the jollest
and most independent and powerful lot Of female,
that man can find anywhere in India