The Savannah morning news., 1904-12-25
By MARY DEAN.

a deep border of velvet embroidered
with raised roses in silver tinsel.
Around the shoulders, and down the
front of the coat. went a stole collar
with fringes of jet and the same sill
Yer roses. The effect was superb but
funereal and over-done.
LRces and Gnuze Over Fur.
Fur is a frequent doubling for these
filmy cloaks. but they are generally
made warm with interlinings of
lambs wool. which lends itself better
to lightness of fall. An all-fur even
ing wrap is generally in the shape Of
a jacket of ermine or white rabbit. for
skins are too precious for the lavish
cut which the mantle requires. Still,
there are radiant little ermine and rab-
bit capes which fall to the hips, and
one or two very elaborate dolmans in
similar skins, and in caracul. have
also been seen. Falls of lace and
chiffon, tricked out with gemmed but
tons, make these somewhat serious gar
ments becoming at the throat and
front.
With velvet gowns. consisting of a
trained skirt and wadded coat, most
elaborate sets are seen. These are
especially affected by women who wish
to make the best of good figures, and
the very fussiness of the sets makes 1t
possible to fashion them of fairly in
expensive materials. One set worn
at a charity fair given at fashion
able hotel was of white rabbit clipped
close TO initiate ermine. The tippet.
which sunk into the waist with jet
buckles, was furnished with long stole
ends and completely edged with quill
ing Of white velvet ribbon. Black vel
vet somewhat wider. strung through
openings, was a further and most eff
fective garniture. The muff was I'M
mensely big. with falls of white chif-
fon and quillings and lacings of black
and white velvet.
FLUFFY Neck Sets.
other sets on a similar order, or
with the neck piece in a small cravat-
shape. are made from a variety OF
woven materials, with chenille and
lace falls and velvet ribbons to
smarter them. Some of the textures
initiate furs, such as the crushed We
lours and bear-cloths, but others are
wooden materials, pure ana simple,
and are none the less charming for
that. Velvet, cloth and zibeline-es-
pecially the novelty patterns of the
last-may be used for the sets, whose
chief requirements seem to be an ex-
IRENE FITNESS. This is accomplished
both by a fussy little cut and by or
nate methods of trimming.
Numberless are the means en-
ployed by the smart woman of
small means TO obtain effects of
least possible cost. so TO her the
new Vatican train will prove "A
treasure.
The Vatican Train.
THE Vatican train" writes a
French correspondent, lis immensely
in vogue in Paris, for through the
detachable charmer one can turn a
street skirt any time into an evening
frock. Suppose madame's skirt is of
old-red cloth, which is most FASH
ionable color. She buys some lengths
more than are required for the actual
skirt, which is cut around. with no ex-
aggerated fall at any point. The train
Is made separately and lined through
out. but Il may be attached at the
waist or sweep from under one OF the
nounces at the bottom of the skirt
proper. One skirt model which has a
fan Of pleats al the back has a train
middle OF the back-to be tucked un-
der the skirt when needed.
Amy Jupe," concludes this authori-
~. may have an all-round exten.
sion. following the lines OF galloons
used, braids. embrolderies, etc, and
put on al the region Of the lower trim.
/ ming"
The Evening Hat.
The same writer also dwells upon th'