davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-09
Fashion Has Stamp Of 1880
and 1860.
BACK TO ANCIENT DAYS
OLD WARDRoBEs RANSACKED
FOR IDEAS
The 1904 Girl Owes All Her Styles
to Last Century's
Modes.

Special Correspondence OF The Evening Star.
NEW YORK, April Z. 1904.
ITO be really captivating" declares
French writer somewhere "a woman must
be both feminine and foolish in dress"
However this may be, there is no doubt
that the world is returning fast as 1t can
to a period of adorable foolishness. Hard
sense, as once expressed by the cut-and-
dried tailor made, is with the newest clothes
at least virtually thing of the past. Mar
row skirts have grown wide, sleeves billow
and hang like the arm coverings in the old
Books of Beauty. and hats are becoming
sillier and sweeter every day.
What does 1t all mean? Simply that the
periods from which these quaint coquetries
are being harvested were especially orna-
mental in matters of dress So, with neces-
sary notifications, the least extravaganza
details which existed between 1880 and 1860
are being used and with charming effects
1t Is interesting to properly catalogue
these details, for to the world at large every
thing is 1890 But only the long shoulder
seam and low armhole being used. the peler-
inc tippets and some minor points come
from this period. All the rest, to a large
extent, get their inspiration from war time
models and delicious Inspirations they are
too.
An imported gown now being shown by
well-known firm reproduces to the
quaint frivolities of an old 1860 fashion
is champa gne-Coiored yelling, and that of
the ancient one French silk in a sprigged
wall paper design" The skirt of each one
is ornamented with three plain t1ounces put
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-09

No loopfngs yet appear on any of these
draped skirts, but more than one delicate
yelling takes to the stiff roSetteS and prlm
bows that once held loopings in place. A
fad for the bows is to put them in ladders
down the front of a bodice, or have them
outline in the same way the apron of the
skirt and is the years long passed away
these pretty trifes-certainly hallowed now
were disposed in the same manner.
Pretty Ornaments.
Along with the suggestive things of 1880
and 1860 there are things so new as to have
about them the very perfume of the 1904
mint. Among these are some charmers in
neck chains, which are daily growing more
metal, and dark metal with Japanese finish
are the latest materials for these, and irreg-
ular pearls, brilliants and sapphires may
be strung on the same thread. Every alter
nate stone another chain may be diff
ferent and some are so big as to seem more
heart-breakingly desirable than all others.
But wise maids prefer the chains with
small stones, and few ones, at that for
when strung upon white metal these have
a real look.
with round crystal balls inclosing peacock
eyes. This is the gem of the seasons col
lection, if it does cost 50, and it would set
off most smartly a black cloth dress.
But with this chain once more the long
ago must be touched upon, for far back the
rich, If sinister, peacock's eye marked many
bits of jewelry Belt buckles showed them,
rings, brooches and bracelets, straw and
feather quilts for hats. And today with
the exception of the bracelet, similar de-
tails display the peacocks eye. The super
stitious attach bad luck to this emblem No
matter; it is lovely-and that is about all
the feminine heart that is STEPPED in the
joyous side of dress at any time demands
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-09

simple. and the fatty trimmed sailor, lifted
at the back and there punched with trim
ming, is much seen.
A point not to be forgotten is that colored
hats will again be more worn than black
ones. Headgear in shaded blues, greens or
reds abounds, and any of these colors may
combine with the shades of brown, which
continue to be favored.
So much is this color still approved that
out Of a dozen French dresses eight may be
brown, and quite six of the eight In some
slippery, shining texture, such as mohair,
eolienne or poplin. The stuff that falls gra-
ciously and shines seems to be the thing
for the solder summer materials. And
Herewith once more back to the sixties,
when poplins and taffetas were the mad
ness and were trimmed as now, with
narrow velvet ribbons, round silk braids
and Gilt buttons
With many skirts decided leaning to-
ward the old tunic effects Is also seen. A
gown Of embroidered linen canvas In nat
ural shade has a double skirt, which sug-
gests the lace basque tail Of remote days.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-09

edge of wide brim shapes with lace.
Wreathes of roses are placed at the top or
the crowns of these, and much ribbon is
used on them.
The subject of modern utilization OF old
fashioned fripperies includes the discussion
of the hated hoop In all likelihood the UNI
wieldy cage once employed for the bal
looming of skirts will never return In It's
ancient form. The hoopskirt was incon-
venient. very. Gymnastics were necessary
for decorous results when sitting down,
and only one woman could pass down
street or ride in a carriage at time. so
the world will never again receive the large
ores, but little ones, or means which pro-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-09

next course. Small individual salts and
biaced befwseh each two q the CHESTS
Dessert is handed around IN the same way
as the other courses and looks well II
served on china or silver trays. Coffee il
handed to the ladies In the drawing room
and to the men at table after the women
have left or in the library.
There are three ways Of serving dinner
the English, the Russian and the COM
promise" which combines the best points
Of the other two. The English style is
where the viands are served from the
table; Ia Russo everything is served from
the side and passed by an attendant. The
compromise Is when certain dishes are
served by either host or hostess.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-09

Eugene Liked It.

Eugene Liked It.
Introduced into France by the Empress
Eugene, the hoop enjoyed in the sixties an
plain skirt of former years could not be
skirts, ruches, gimps, bands of velvet and
what not; and for evening jupes, which
were pillows of tulle, knots of flowers and
wreaths of little rosebuds. These orna-
ments, put on often in the old ways, are
now decking the dressier summer skirts,
which, in many cases, besides increasing in
width, are shortening to the lengths Of
hoopskrt days.
In this admirable instance, therefore,
modern woman can only praise the former
cage and sing paeanS to its influences. 1t
kept petticoats out of the mud and when
it collapsed all the world of fair became,
as the old comic writer put it, only "Doro-
thy Draggletails."
From this bondage Of trailing skirts 1t
would look as if vain woman were in
great measure to be relieved. Many i'm
ported models for street use escape the
ground, and the ever-growing fullness is so
brilliantly manipulated that certain SLIM
ness is yet retained.
Smart little street gowns of eolienne, bril-
liantine and poplin, in very thin weaves,
show skirts whose extreme fullness is
largely achieved by pleats set in at the
hips. This portion fits the figure without
flaw. and above the high girdle-for all
girdles are high nowadays-will fall pleat-
ed Eton whose wide sleeves come short Of
the wrist. Under these dainty little jack
cts are worn soft white shirts in cotton,
silk or pongee. with sleeves large enough
to puff above the wristband.
Flat Trimmed Sailors.
The hats for such toilets are equally
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-09
Kinds of Coffee.

From the New York Press. -
There are an even dozen grades OF genu-
inc coffee, and when we take account OF the
vast quantity of carrots, beans, beets, pars-
nips and other vegetables used in its manu-
facture the number is indefinitely increased,
An acquaintance presented to me few
days ago pound of what appeared to be
good coffee but explained that ii was made
of carrots and beets. t'The vegetables he
said, ARE made into stiff paste. which Is
run through machines that press 1t into the
shape of the. coffee berry, These machines
have the sanction of the United States
government, which is supposed to be OPP
posed to the adulteration of food 1t must
be SO, because letters patent have been
granted on them. How's that for the pure
food committee of the Senate? Eh?''
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-09

on a silk ruching; the bodice of each is
soft white, gathered full and topped by a
jacket cut on exactly the same lines. 1t is
the same rose, even if one is ''bolero' ana
the other a 'Zouave;" and the blouse I'M
derneatn the late creation is only another
name for the spencer" of we ancient days.
Her Pork Pie Hat.
In the old fashion plate the lady-or rather
damsel, for she can be no more than eiSh-
teen-wears "a pork pie hat with dandy
feather" as went the circus song of those
days She also carries tiny white silk
parasol covered with black chantilly, in the
exact form Partisan bellies and old ladies
here use en- voture.
The pork pie hat likewise has it's 1904 sis
ter. Made of malines and chiffon. mingled
with straw and horsehair braid, this turban
Is everywhere seen in readyto-wear shape,
needing only a scrap of trimming and cost
ing just $50.
Then the undersleeves and muslin camps
of former days may be bought separately as
of yore. and they are considered all the
more fetching if they show the simple lace
. headings and velvet drawstrings of those
long buried times.
The "gunboat" turban of civil war days
also comes down under the new name of
the torpedo. There are many variations
on this STYLE but for the most part the
shapes are all pointed at the front and
blunt at the back, and show swathng trim
mings.
Another hat which appeared somewhere
along the centuries has lent its pattern for
a pleasing headpiece. This is likewise
species of turban. but the curving sides al
most meet over the top of the crown, form
ing sugar scoop front and a back that
drops down In a tail. Upon this tail an
oval velvet rosette. in softly shaded quill
ings, Ia often placed fatty, and two narrow
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-09
DON'T Despair.
mh10&2ti. then2d&4th s-24t

Many people are wasting
away and dying of Ca
tarrh, Consumption, Cam
GER, Scrofula, Kidney and
Liver Complaints, and
blood disorders of every
name and nature, who
might live to a good old
age, i'm health and happi-
ness, by the timely use of
RADAM'S MHCROBE KILL
LER, which, by destroying
the germs of disease, re-
moves its cause. Pleasant
to the taste, and perfectly
harmless to the most deli-
cate stomach.
Free Book. 121 Prince ST.. New York. or
Washington once. ~
Room 7, May Building,
Tth and SITS. NV.
VIM. Quick. Manager.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-09
Bluing With Indigo.

With little care and bag OF indigo
white clothes can easily be made to as
sumo the pearly tint which was their ordi-
nary characte in the households Of our
grandmothers Indigo merely tints the
clothes instead of dyeing them, as the
modern blue bag does, and leaves no mys-
terious spots of iron rust caused by the
use of Prussian blue in manufactured blu
ings. Neither does indigo streak the
clothes when properly used. Tie the in
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-09
The Girl in Politics.
the New Bedford Standard.

From the New Bedford Standard.
The girls of Hardin College in Mexico.
Mo-, are not going to let themselves be I'M
happy If they can't vote. They apparently
know something of the value of 1.-The power
behind the throne" Joseph Folk, the
boodler-hunting circuit attorney Of st.
Louis, who wants the democratic nominal
ton for governor, spoke to the students of
the college the other day, and they raised
this cry at the end of the address: zoe
Folk! Joe Folk! He's the man! If I can't
vote my sweetheart can?'
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-09
Mrs. Carnegie Cares Little for Jewels.
he NaQ Times.

Mrs Andrew Carnegie cares little or
nothing for jewels. When she goes out to.
a function or to the opera she sometimes
wears pearls, but these are not of fabulous
size or price. They are extremely modest
and afford quite a contrast to the jewels
which some women wear. At best Mrs.
Carnegie does not care for functions or So
ciety in general. She makes a delightful
hostess at sSkibo castle, where she has re-.
ceived royalty. She is very simple and I'M
affected and these are qualities which al
ways win with the higher classes abroad.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-09
an2.a.ff.7h
HAS SEVERAL USES
BRARY TABLE.
Equally Useful as an Ironing Board
Wall Shelf
Desks.
Written for The Evening Star.

Written for The Evening Star.
Apartment house and fiat jewellers who
have grown accustomed to folding beds that
masquerade in all sorts of guises will well
come a diversion. Several new inventions
shown in all the furniture stores point to
economy of purse as well as space.
One of the most useful pieces of furniture
which is coming into use has three different
aliases, each one of which can be easily as
sumed in the twinkling of an eye. Its most
dignified mission is to stand against the wall
of the nall or living room as settee. When
in this position no one would ever dream
that an ironing board and card or library
table are combined in this substantial-look-
ing settee but such Is really the case
AS a Settee it looks like any other hall
seat, except that at each end the oval back
extends several inches beyond the sides. A
simple twist of the wrist, and the back is
pulled forward over the arm rests and
green leather-covered table, for reading or
playing cards, appears.
When this handy board" is needed as an
ironing table small lever is turned at the
sides which raises the top and brings it to
more convenient height.
Another arrangement is a large weathered
oak chair which fits in corner of the den
OF living room. The back of this chair has
a door which, when opened, reveals tea
service with all the paraphernalia. For a
mans den where cigars and wines are not
desired to be in evidence, this easy chair
helps to solve the problem in lieu of cell
larette.
accessories which masquerade as telephones
and grandfather'S clocks. When the receiv-
er of the telephone is taken down the door
flies open, and nimble fingers do the rest.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-09
Paying the Price.

From Puck.
Mrs Du Bious-'T guess I can get you
into society by introducing you at Mrs.
Cheatem's bridge parties"
Newrich-"How much will I be expecte&
TO loser"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-09
gllded quilts are stuck rakishly through.

gilded quilts are stuck rakishly through
the left brim.
Scribe qulls' these slim ornaments might
well be called, for at the feathered end they
are scarcely wider than the old-fashioned
pens.
The Tricorne Hat.
A hat influenced by colonial traditions Is
called by this name, the popular shape
showing very spreading brim. which Is
held up to the crown at the side fronts
with trimming of some description. This
feebly suggests the colonial tricorne, with
more becomingness than the smaller and
correcter shape possesses, unless the latter
is covered with flowers and lace. Every
where it is noticed the hardness OF the
smaller straw shapes is being softened.
straw quilting and rosettes appearing
around the brim of turbans when more
elaborate effect is not desired. An effect
strikingly feminine is made by draping the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-09

digo in a thin bag, lay it in a small bow1
or basin and pour boiling water over 1t.
When 1t is thoroughly scalded squeeze 1t
and pour the liquid thus obtained into.
tub of clear water. Do not plunge a large
number of pieces. into the bluing water at
once but blue and wiring each piece sepa-
rately and hang it up Immediately TO dry.
1t is not necessary to blue clothes every
time they are washed. Every other time
is sufficient.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-09
For Writing Materials.

A handy writing desk which may be pur-
chased or made for n song, is simply a
board twenty by thirty-six inches. Two
screws in the back of the top and two brass
chains suspend it from the ceiling against
the wall. A brass hook on each side and a
brass chain attached to the wall will let 1t
down, and hold 1t in position when in use.
Another writing desk is made on the prin-
ciple Of table. 1t is OF weathered oak, and
plain. The center is divided lengthwise by
a partition about eighteen inches high, each
side Of which is fitted up with compart-
ments for stationery, stamps, pens and blot
tiers. Two persons can thus write at the
desk at the same time, each without dis
turbing the other
Gown boxes are shown with all the para
pbernalia for upholstering in a few mo-
ments, including the pillows. Even steam
radiator book shelves and draperies are
shown which fit over the coils and look ex-
actly like a bookcase. at the same time COW
ering the radiator. Four coils can be made
to look as well as fourteen by having a
longer board made with the curtains at
tached.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-09
Just So.

Fror, Judge.
"Eai"
''Uh?"
Pa, what is mincemeat?"
"A sort of astronomical merger, my
son.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-04-09

0RRINE CURES DRUNKENNESS.
PEOPLES MISSION,
01O Penn. Ave.

february
Orne n
Is v ga o po to
al e Is % pef b
to f at
o o gyou 10 the GOO h ed ori, I
for terrible dh drunken ougratsu 1 ans
yours yu
W. !
Peoples
No Sanitarium Treatment Publicity!
OR Loss OF
Mothers Of
b on Y the dwfnyu 1t II
OF No patient
free direction
RECOMMENDED
t
se p N ST
s.. Alexandra Va
N and to Cure call tn above druggists OF
write o
The Orrne Co., Inc. Washington, D. c.
will of
ornes podhve pee for drunken u
Cure Effected or Money Refunded
Idaho County free press. [volume] (Grangeville, Idaho Territory) 1886-current, 1904-07-28
To Close Sundays.

A movement has been started
and petition will soon be circula.
ted asking the business houses to
close on Sundays. At the request
of the promoters we publish the
petition which ia as follows:
To THE BUSINESS MEN OF
GRANGEvILLE, IDAHO:
The undersigned petitioners re-
spectfully ask that you will close
your respective places of business
on Sundays, from and after the
first Sunday Of August, 1904.
We urge as reasons for this:
First that experience has dem.
onstrated that it is better for
people who are engaged in business
or employed at labor Of any kind,
to have one day in seven for rest
and for such relaxation Of mind
and body as shall best subserve
their interests, other than business
and pecuniary interests.
second that NY giving one day
in seven to the recuperation Of
mind and body, people are usually
better fitted (unless the day is
spent in excesses Of any kind), for
the duties and responsibilities oi
every day life.
We do not care to- urge this
matter on religious grounds; be-
cause one may regard Sunday as q
Sabbath in the religious sense and
yet not be a Christian in the true
sense. And those who do regard
Sunday az Sabbath in any sense
know that the Sabbath was made
for man and not man for the
Sabbath.
We simply urge the matter up
on the. grounds stated above, be-
lieving that a voluntary movement
of this kind will be productive OF
permanently good results that will
be manifest sooner or later to every
one.
Idaho County free press. [volume] (Grangeville, Idaho Territory) 1886-current, 1904-07-28
Mears in Jail.

E. A. Mears, who started the
First Bank Of Stites last winter
and has since started banks i n
several other small towns in the
northwest, is now in all kinds Of
trouble and lying in Jail in Co.
lumbia county, Wash. charged with
embezzling and receiving deposits
in an insolvent bank. It has been
said that Mears' plan has been
to advertise in large papers for men
with q few thousand dollars to en-
gage in the banking business and
when he would get a victim place
him in charge Of the new bank and
then leave to repeat the operation
in some other town. In the mean
time he would be checking freely
on the various banks until the new
cashier would discover that Mears
had drawn out more than he had
invested and the man in charge
was left to get out as best he could.
Whatever his plans may have been
it is certain that he has started
an unusually large number of
banks and almost without a single
exception they have come to grief
in one way or another.
Mears was man who assumed
great deal of Importance and
tried to impress those whom he
met with the fact that he was q
great man. At one time in con-
versation with representative Of
the FREE PRESS he talked freely of
the great success he had made in
life and attributed it largely to the
fact that he had always voted the
republican ticket and attended the
Baptist church, In this case, how
ever, he will probably find that it
will take more than his celestial
bank account or his faith in the
republican party to put him square
with the people he has deceived.
Idaho County free press. [volume] (Grangeville, Idaho Territory) 1886-current, 1904-07-28

majority OF the delegates are not
satlshed with the outcome, partic.
uiarly with the failure to endorse
Gov. Morrison and his admins.
tration, but it was Ailshie's con.
vention, and what he said went
without protest.
1t is not thought that the result
Will have any bearing on the
county republican nominations,
despite the fact that T. H. Bartlett.
the leading candidate for the nomi.
nation for county attorney, was
turned down hard in his efforts TO
secure an endorsem ent of the state
administration.