davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-01-02
NOW FOR MALTA LACE
Latest Fad Dear to the Fem
mime Heart.
ROBES AND KERCHIEFS
CASTELAR, MANTILLAS AND
THEIR LATTER DAY USES.
Takes Some Running Around to Get
Just the Pieces One
Wants.

Written for The Evening Star by NJ. LIE Mont.
"Why, what are you doing in town over
the week end?" exclaimed one society wo-
man to another as both alighted from their
carriages in front of fashionable New
York shop. "You should be at your coun-
try home"
And so should you, and I'll wager that
I know your Grand" answered the other
woman, laughing. own up-it's Maltese
Lace
How did you guess it," asked the first
speaker. you've been studying Hindoo
mind reading, and we'll be afraid to have
you around"
Not bit of it, declared her friend. I'm
simply CHASING you among the knowing
ones who want to be first in anything that s
new and pretty. The rest of us are collect
ing and ordering Maltese lace. and when 1
found you at it's very door-so to speak,
knew what you were up to. Perhaps you
are the certain leader Of fashion who paid
$500 for a Maltese robe the other day?"
These social leaders were busy on an err
rand that has become a fad among wo-
men who like to be in the lead of new styles
and to set the fashion for those innumera-
BILE women who follow any style which the
whims of the leaders may cause them to
adopt.
The fad of the new year will be not mere
ly to wear Maltese lace, but to wear it in
pieces that match one another in their dec
orative designs. The fact that it is not the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-01-02

Speclai correspondence OF Inc Evening sur
PARIS, December 10. 1903.
The Riviera season. which follows close
upon the heels of the holidays. is not show
ing any diminution in fashionable favor
this year. 1t is only question of a few
weeks when all the world Will be route
to the sunny south. The little Paris sea-
son" is coming to its halfway house, and,
to paraphrase a familiar line, 1.-The best
inns best room''-for countries have their
fashions well as men and women-wilI
soon be at premium.
Exquisite toilets are being created for
these dolce far niente days, and their
beauty Is never lost In the land where 1t is
always afternoon. The dressmaker' art is
displayed there to the very best advantage.
There is plenty of opportunity to show
stunning gown. and at most exclusive re-
sorts this is really the overture to the play.
White, which for several seasons has been
such a predominating note in the southern
toilet. has a rival now in the pastel shades.
Both the ivory and pastel colors require the
becoming touch of dark furs to make them
really effective; consequently the dainty
light costumes will be worn with magnti-
cent sable and mink.
One sees in some of the fashion talks eX-
aggerated accounts of pink. mauve and blue
cloth gowns being dOnned on all occasions.
As a matter of fact the light dress worn
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-01-02

straight lines with a sweeping graceful
train. The low neck is outlined with an
emplecement of embroidered lace having
epaulets attached. girdle of antique sill
yer studded with amethysts encrcles the
waist empire fashion. and wing sleeves
lined with silvery tissue give a very
dovey' effect. Simple and girIish is an
other tea gown CONNECTION of accordion
plated white double chiffon made up over
yellow taffeta. Over the plated skirt hangs
short, plated bolero jacket of chiffon. and
a lace collar supplements this Rows of
two-inch puffs reaching to the elbow and
a fall of plated chiffon joined to the puffs
with band and bow of yellow ribbon COM
tea gowns fichus are favorite finish. And
by the way, fichu effects are blessing to
a woman who on a small allowance con-
templates doing Up old frocks. But to
come back to the tea gown, the woman
who carries one Off with success must be
tall and slim. But we all seem able to
achieve this attenuation nowadays and
how 1t is managed Is often a marvel. Pos
sibly the corset is responsible for some of
the taking off of too, too solid flesh"
Think of the corset of today and compare
1t with that of ten years ago. The straight
front has certainly revolutionzed feminin-
ity both from a hygienic and artistic stand
point. The French corsetieres are trying
to bring around again the small waist Of
hourglaSS proportions, but so far without
much enthusiasm being displayed for them
on the part of the women themselves.
Plenty Business.
The furriers are having the time of their
lives just now, as the cold weather is
bringing them lot of business. One lead
ing house is making a speciality of ermine
opera wraps made in shawl shape and
edged with chenille and ball fringe. The
wrap though, that appeals to the great
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-01-02
Delicious Orange Desserts.

Orange Charlotte Russe.-Dip the edges OF
some vanilla waters in boiled sugar and
arrange them neatly round the outside of q
hexagon mold. pressing them well together
! to make them adhere nicely, and leave till
set. Dissolve three-quarters of an ounce of
gelatine in half a pint of new milk and
bring this well to the boil. Mix in the Juice
OF four oranges. the well-beaten yolks of
three eggs. three ounces of sugar crate of
nutmeg and little cinnamon Sir this over
the fire till thick. but without letting it re-
boil: then add an ounce of butter; take It
off the fire and stir it till it begins to set.
Lift OF the wafer case from the mold, pour
the mixture into the latter and put away
till the mixture has set Turn it out place
in glass or silver dish and slip the wafer
case over it. Garnish the top and round the
sides with stiffiy whipped cream sweetened
and favored with little curacao
Orange Sweet.-Take a breakfast Gun full
of sweetened orange juice and add to it two
tablespoonfuls of good brandy SHERRY may
be used If preferred but three tablespoon-
fuls will be needed. Then take about twen-
ty-four macaroons and arrange them in the
dish they are to be served in pour the mix
ture over them and leave them to steep for
about quarter of an hour. Before serving
arrange little rose OF stiff1y whipped cream
on each.
Orange Cream.-Peel four oranges very
thin and place the peel in pot with pint
of milk and four tablespoonfuIs of sugar
leaving 1t to simmer gently for about ten
minutes Dissolve three-quarters of an
ounce OF gelatin in gill of milk, strain on
the milk navored with the peel. let it cool
and mix 1t with the gelatin dissolved In
milk. After this pour in the Juice squeezed
from the four oranges. Mix all well to-
gether. pour into mold and leave to set
When 1t Is set turn out on glass dish and
arrange round 1t compete of oranges
Orange StrawS.-Take the peel OF some
oranges and put it into pot of cold water.
Let 1t boil till quite tender, but be careful
to change the water after three-quarters
of an hour. Drain the peel, and when cool
cut 1t into thin strips. Make a strip of
one pound of sugar and half a pint of
water, put In about pound of the orange
peel and let the whole boil for twenty |
minutes. Lift out the pieces Of peel very
carefully and put them on plate In Q
warm place to dry. When they are per-
fectiy dry. which will be IN shout fortysi
eight hours. pack them in air-tisht fruit7
jars.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-01-02

wN

door crea tions. and on some of the dressy
afternoon street gowns as well. Crfnoline
of a very soft and pliable nature Is placed
inside the skirt to bring about this fulfil
ness.
1t is almost impossible to infinitely de-
scribe the different trimmings of the sea-
son. They are all charming and in the
right place equally important. Perhaps
the newest is the facet embroidery" which
has the effect of key pattern carried out
in lace braid. A special fancy Of the day
Is for open work or English embroidery.
which Is exceedingly pretty when applied
over a contrasting color. The old-fashioned
shocking we have almost forgotten has
come into vogue again. but now 1t is caught
into diamondlike pieces with different col
ored silk.
Another distinguishing feature of trim
ming is that lace Is oftener arranged as
panels than as the popular insertion or
entire deux. Before leaving the trimming
subject let me say that buttons are seen
everywhere, especially velvet-covered but
tons arranged in groups. Cut steel, gun
metal and enamel ones are among the art
novelties. Fringe of all kinds, from the
wide macrame to the tiny ball variety, Is
in evidence on frocks and separate waists.
This trimming finishes the ends of ties and
festoons the daintiest ball gowns in q
fringe of chiffon flowers.
The Tea Drinkers.
Although the tea drinking fad has be-
come popular in Paris. and tea rooms are
plentiful In all parts Of the city, the Par
isienne has never acquired the art of serv-
Ing the beverage with. as Kipling says
more than oriental splendor" Paris now
has a tea room to be proud of. It was
opened recently by two English ladies in
the Rue Cambon. and is called the Val
Rosa. Happening into this charming place
the other day 1 was surprised to see the
room crowded with elegantly dressed
Frenchwomen drinking their five o'clock"
The room is delightfully."- artistic and Is be-
comingly lighted with electric lights in
shaded rose bulbs. The tables are spread
with lace inserted cloths, and the china
service is of the daintiest.
The "Dovey' Effect.
The new tea gowns, when made in the
light and soft, clinging stuffs, are dreams
Of loneliness The flexible brocades vel
vets liberty silks, chiffons and even voiles
are not out of the running. beautiful
gown is of mauve velours fashioned in long,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-01-02
GLASS PAINTING NOW.
Panels, Windows and Grandfathers;
Clocks.
Written for The Evening Star.

Written for The Evening Star.
According to the present indications.
glass painting bids fair to take its original
place in the rank of decoration, and wo-
men who are 80 fortunate as to have old
heirlooms in the shape of banjo and grand
fathers clocks with quaint glass pictures
are now more than ever to be envied. But
any woman of moderate ability can turn
her knowledge of painting to account in
this direction, for the work Is easily done
and the results are always interesting.
Since this old accomplishment has been
revived, it is rapidly becoming the fashion
10 use 1t In identifying the home. Often
the entire appearance of a somber room is
changed by Transforming an ordinary glass
window into an imitation stained glass one
A square or oblong window over the piano
or book shelves, which is not an ornament
to the room, but is necessary for light need
be no longer an eyesore If treated to this
simple method of color painting
One of the most interesting examples of
imitation stained glass was seen recently.
TO accomplish this result the painter first
had a pane of glass cut the same size of
the window. On this was sketched in out
line the motif, after which it was painted
In the same manner as on china. From the
edge of the glass the arrangement of the
gold leaf was so carefully applied that it
gives a gorgeous effect when the sun shines
through 1t.
easels in the sunshine while working on
glass, so they can keep the effect in the
foreground in applying colors. This method
or working is trying on the eyes, however,
and rather difficult to follow. To insure
durability, the glass must be fired before
mounting in the pane.
new idea for identifying O hall WIN
dow at the first stair landing is to arrange
a circular piece of glass about eighteen
inches in diameter in a frame in such a
manner as to give the effect of stained
the proper colors of paint and apply them
with quantity of gold leaf interspersed. If
the window is square, oblong or diamond
shape, ii may be first painted solid color,
leaving a space in the center for an imita-
ton stained glass window to be puttied on
in any desired shape. The putty is gilded
over, so that 1T does not show, and the effect
of the solid color underneath the outer glass
is beautiful if the paints are judiciously ap-
piled.
An old-fashioned oblong French mirror is
also an excellent object on which to expert
ment, after removing 1t from the frame.
This may be decorated with a top panel
about nine inches deep, after the old style,
with church and trees. After the glass
| is fired, II should be turned over to picture
| Trainer to frame appropriately having a
molding under the painted panel, Of course,
| as they did in olden times.
decorated with pleasing results One OF
| the prettiest ones shown has the coat of
arms and the monogram of the family to
| whom 1t belongs. A laurel leaf wreath en-
| circles the colored monogram, and adds
J character to the painting. Even bookcases
have lengthwise or crosswise panels show
| ing some landscape scene.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-01-02

easiest thing in the world TO match this
lace, with its ivory gold tint and fine sflken
texture. only lends fascination to the en-
want to be fashionable will rival one an
other In the number and beauty of their
Maltese sets. -sz
Picture the chagrin of a woman who sees
her social rival arrayed in filmy mantilla,
a Spanish bolero jacket. handkerchief and
sleeve and dress ornaments. all of the same
pattern of Maltese lace, when she herself
has only collar and handkerchief that
match, and is trusting to luck that others
will not notice that her dress hounces, stock
and inserted medallions are of another, If
somewhat similar, pattern.
Milady's Handkerchief.
That the wide and elaborate lace borders
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-01-02
A Wonderful Collection Of Stables.

The dowager empress Of Russia Is the
owner of the finest collection of Russian
sables in the world, and she has given some
exceedingly valuable presents of this beau
tiful fur to her sister. Queen Alexandra
When travelling and during winter sledge
drives the empress often wears a mantle
which was lining valued at $4,000. 1t was
made of skins collected for her by the
governor of a polar province where the
taxes are paid In furs.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-01-02

pleasure-loving majority 10 Of pretty bro
cade having raised velvet figures and trim;
ming of lace and velvet. A coat of white
zibeline made lovely with dark fur and gold
buttons is also popular.
The theater hat has been reduced to its
tiniest proportions, and an Alsatian bow OF
velvet or a combination of tulIe and feathers
Is the only head protection my lady now
uses for the evening.
CATHERINE TALBOT.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-01-02
The New Coat.

The coat of the season is a long basqued
affair with close-fitting back and loose,
singie-breasted fronts. Sometimes the
basque is arranged in one with the coat,
and. again. 1t is an added item. Allied
to walking skirt of the now approved
contour. this coat Is the very essence of
smart chic 1t presents an equally attrac-
tive appearance worn open or closed and
10 frequently completed by a shoulder cape
or pelerine.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-01-02
To Get a Plump Face

To this end first of all you must take
care of your health and live upon whole
some. nourishing diet. with plenty of milk.
Then, if possible, have your face massaged
two three times a week with a good
skin food. Deep breathing is of great i'm
portance also.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-01-02

Roll the shade up to the top of the win
dow, then take position with your right
hand on the cord, left on the hip, thumb
back and stand with your right side toward
the window. Begin training by lowering
and raising the shade as far as you can
reach down and up without moving your
hand upon the cord. Change sides after a
count of eight Expand this exercise by
taking long step to the side with the out
ward foot as you bring the cord down.
This step should bend the outward knee
while the inward remains stiff.
Now take position with your back to the
window and clasp the cord with both hands
high above your head. Lower and raise the
shade as far as possible. Make your arms
do all the work
Facing the window. and standing as near
IL as lou can, go through the same motions.
Standing with your side to the window,
raise and lower the shade with the out
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1904-06-23

probable that the miners had a sriev.
ance a just cause to complain. Baf
hey certainly had no right 70 corn
init murder and assassination By The
wholesale. Every man in this world
has the right to work for an honest
living whether he belongs 10 union
or not. just as every merchant has
a right TO do business without join
ing any combination OF merchants
The constitution Of this government
gives individual liberty 10 eyery per
son and all have the inaiienable right
TO work when AMI whert they will,
provided they do not transgress the
rights of others.
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1904-06-23
LOVED BY HIS MEN.
Crew Who Worked Under Late w.
F. Ponder Esteemed Him X ghly

Nm. F. Ponder, Who Wa TuH over
by a train at Altheimer La, Friday
night. sustaining injuries from which
he died. was held in very high esteem
by the men Of the construction crew
OF which he was foreman. "a The fol
lowing extracts from a letter written
by Ben Bumpus, one OF the members
of the crew. TO Mrs Ponder fully
shows:
1T is with a sad and sympathizine
heart that | ask You 70 accept MY
heartfelt sympathy in your bereave-
ment. Your late husband and myself
were friends. He was like father 10
me. He was also an old friend Of my
father and il was quite natural for
me 10 think a great deal of him No
news could have shocked NE 50
greatly as that which told ne Of the
horrible fate which had befallen him.
He was good, kind and loyal. He had
a winning manner that Won the .love
and friendship Of those who knew him
Too much can rot he said Of the good
he did his fel}owmen. His kindneS
TO those who knew him was as the
sun TO mother earfh-aIWays bright
ening some lark spot in The sad life of
some ore. He had kind word and
pleasant smile for everybody he met.
l. is hard indeed 10 give mp such q
frue and steadfast friend, bur of such
are the trials of life. God saw fit 10
remove him, and He knows best. Ever
since that eventful day a cloud Of
gloom has hung over his crew. and sor.
row and sadness is pictured on the
face OF everyone. They all loved him
as a father, as he was so good and kind
to them. But God in his glory has
called him from his earthly troubles
TO brighter home beyond, and while
past. thinking of the happy times that
We have spent with him. he is walk
ing the streets OF Paradise by his bleS-
sed Masters side, surveying the beau
ties of the land which none but the
good can inherit
Every member of the crew Joined in
the sentiments expressed in the LET.
ter by Mr. Bunus.
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1904-06-23
BRAKES Palmetto Wine.

A complete medicine and tonic for immediate
relief and absolute cure o. Chronic stomach
Troubles. Flatulency. Constipation. Liver and
Kidney Congestion. Inflammation OF Bladder
and Catarrk OF Mucous Membranes. When used
for the cure OF BrightS Disease, Diabetes and
female trou beS. 1t cures to stay cured and pro-
notes health and vlsor. One tablespoonful.
once day. establishes perfect cure, and is a
wonderful tonic FOR the appetite and nerves and
puriheS and enricheS the blood. Seveuty five
cents at Drug Stores for large bottle. usual
dollar size. but trial bottle will be sent free
and prepaid to every reader OF this paper who
writes for it to Drake Formula Company, Drake
Build ng Chicago. Ill. Simply send your name
a no address. with request for one bottle Of
brakes Palmetto Wine. prepaid. free OF charge
The shad ,w Of one doubt may cast
a gloom over the whole life.
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1904-06-23
THE PUBLIC SCHOOLS.

The Arkansas platform is all right
on the school question. II favors a
constitutional amendment permitting
higher taxes for school purposes.
which is the only hope for making the
schools better y fine system OF pub
lie schools. right MP 10 the most ad-
saneed and progressive ideas. win
the very best teachers 10 b. had. costs
money, and the only way to GET the
money is AF taxation. Arkansas x
entitled 10 the best schools possible.
and :hoad moi be satisfied With any.
fhing less. The Graphic believes that
The people Will eheerfuIIy take upon
themselves a tax sufficient 10 provide
a thoroughly np-to-date system OF pnb=
lie schools.
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1904-06-23
cOUORADO'S SHAME.

Colorado is the victim of double
scourge-arbitrary and violent union
ism and tyranical militarism. Both
are to blame for the shameful out
RACES that have been committed III
that state in the name OF union labor
and of law and justice, The coward
ice of American business men is also
to blame for the murders committed
in bleeding Colorado. II the business
men of this country We're not such
moral towards. and would fearlessly
take bold and firm stand against
lawlessness Of any kind. strikers
would not dare 10 resort . violence
or 10 override the rights OF any citI-
zen. says the F. PaSo Times.
Then there Is the professional pol
tieian who 10 make himself solid
with a certain class Of voters pr
ya-eIy tells he lawless strikers thai
We is with them aad thai they are
right in resorting 10 violence 70 gain
their ends. These inscriptions dem
aeocues together with he business
men who are afraid they viii lose
trade if they frown on laWlessness.
and General Bells tyranical employ
ment Of military have conspired with
the toughs and assassins 10 bring
shame, sorrow and disgrace upon the
state of Colorado.
We do not pretend TO criticize the
beginning of the trouble. 1t is very
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1904-06-23
Thu RSDAY..jj Me-, 19o4.
Rad YEAR FOR STRIKES.

Ta5onism run W:1d has temporarily
paralvzed the business interests or
AfaUaaoralo. one o1 the most proms-
ing and enteTprising towns in New
Mexico. Eighteen strikes in eighteen
months is AIamogordo.s record. and
asa result several hundred men who
were working eight hours day Tor
big wages are out OF jobs and without
homes The strikes We're SenselesS
acts of bull-doZing that have resulted
disastronsly for the strikers. says the
Times The railroad company mas
all the men it can work and is now in
complete control of its own property.
This is not favorable year for EN-
their employers. An article IN the
Chicago Tribune says that in the cen
sus wear over 100000 men We're en-
ployed in the manufacture OF steel
and iron and their products. Activity
in the industries on which so many
men depend for their wages is prime
condition of good times. That acuV-
ity is lacking now owing 10 various
causes. and the situation is likely to
grow worse instead OF better.
During next month the production
of pig iron will be curtailed greatly
at furnaces in all parts OF the nited
States Those furnaces which are
the Oldest and where the cost OF pro
dnction is the greatest will be the hfs'
to be closed ostensibly for repairs.
but no repairs will be made. II any
are needed. until more lively de
nand justities il. The output of pig
iron last year was l2.oe".ooo tons
The estimated output this year is
only 14.o0o,00o tons.
Less pig iron means less steel ana
loss demand for steel in the metal in
dustries. Consequently this is not IN"
time for workers to make demands
on EMPLOYERS. for the volume OF thelr
business is decreasing. one OF fhe
commercial agencies says the num-
Der of idle persons is growing. and
upskilled labor shows in some sec
tions woeful lack of foresight and
knowledge of real conditions. Skllled
labor should be more intelligent and
observant of the situation.
The cotton mills continue 10 cur
tail production. The railway earn
inss reported for May fall short OF
those of iasl year. Some western
roads, like the Atchison, say tney 90
not intend to lay off any men. hnt the
New York Central. following the ex-
ample of the Pennsylvania. IS pre-
pairing 10 cut down in force.
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1904-06-23

Scme women can h6 eyt:eGely dis.
agreeable under the slightest opposi
.icr.