The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-01-17

The tale of early spring neckwear is
really the story of the evolution of the
bow. 1t seems a long road from the
trim little string tie bow of last year
to the great soft choux whose gauzy
streamers fall far below the waist line,
yet glance at the shop windows show
Illustrations of every intermediate
step. The bow with streamer ends is
simply the logical accompaniment of
the long, clinging. shirred skirts. the
dropping shoulder effects, and the wells
which might almost claim to be of
bridal length and breadth.
Not that the palmer stocks have en-
tirely gone out of vogue. There are
some faces to which simplicity is the
greatest foil. The woman for whom
fuffiness is fussiness will eschew the
neck bow. But her more fortunate
sister will revel in bows of silk, of
satin. of chiffon. of almost every con-
ceivable material.
Even the bowless stocks are more
elaborate than those of last fall. They
| display a greater lavishness of hand
work, of lace and of passementerie.
Nearly all of those of lace or linen
have cuffs and belt 10 match. Even
the silk stocks are accompanied by
belts. 1t is all of a piece with the
fad for entire dresses, matched belts
and bags, and hat, muff and stole fur
sets.
There are some pretty little con-
ceits in linen and lace turnover collars
and cuffs. Those with Teneriffe
wheels are particularly dainty, though
feminine taste is apt to turn in the
! direction of the cobwebby circles and
| squares of Mexican drawn work. Eth
err of these are effective on the velvet
shirt waist now so much in favor.
In spite of the increasing popularity
! of the neck bow, the stock with stole
ends still holds its own to some ex-
| tent. These ends have been given a
| new name, after the French-rabat
| ends-but there is little change in cut
| or length. Perhaps the Partisan love
for sheer white neckwear has brought
it about that they are so often fash
| toned of fine muslin or linen, with a
| trimming of the daintiest Valenciennes
| insertion. 1t is rather a relief after
the surfeit of heavy laces. Some of
them have single rabat end, some
double, some triple. They are round or
| pointed to suit varying fancy. Some
| are pleated on to the band. so that
they fall in veritable jabots; others are
| shirred and still others are dependent
on oddly of cut for their distinction.
Oddly is apt to prevail when the
| heavier linen stocks are in question.
| There are some stylish stocks of heavy
| linen with scalloped buttonholed
edges. They are ornamented with an
intricate leaf design worked in pink,
blue, mauVe, or other linen thread,
each leaf being padded till 1t stands
out trenchantly. These stocks have
short rabat ends, cut in one piece, and
similarly embroidered.
The French stocks of the same
heavy linen are equally recherche.
They are pointed to fit the throat, and
| ornamented with similar embroidery.
| ONLY in this case the pattern is an
open work one, the linen being cut
away to give glimpses OF the neck
| beneath. Another linen stock has a
crescent-shaped ornament of the linen
decorating the front. From the hollow
Of the crescent fall slender rabat ends,
also of the linen. Both the stock and
the ends are edged with a line of open
work hand stitching, giving the erect
of hemstitching.
Hemstitching is a great feature OF
the stiffiy starched linen turnover col
lars. These have almost entirely lost
their masculine appearance Where
thew are not hemstitched they are or
namented with French knots, or with
more or less intricate embroidery. Or
else they have their corners rounded
or cut in artistic curves; and in most
cases the inevitable neck bow peeps
out from between them.
Many of them even go to the length
of having the embroidery done in col
or. In that case, the neck bow should
correspond. A pretty second mourn
ing collar is embroidered in Frencn
knots in a delicate shade OF lavender.
The neck bow is of shaded lavender
MORE ribbon, in many loops and ends.
Nothing can be more artistic than
the color scheme of many of the new