The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-11-12

lets, ending in two long sharp points
in front, or double-breasted like those
of the men. and ending somewhat
above the waistline, to show the
waistcoat and fob chain, some of the
coats going off into long coat tails.
The scanty skirts and bold revers and
gauntlets of PelSin silk, the large mac
aroon' buttons, and, above all, the
quaint bonnets, were charming. OF
these the snail shape and the Empire
or coal scuttle were the best known.
Some were reminiscent of Minerva's
helmet.
"In the days of the empire the fash
ions altered very little. There were
the same high waists and court trains
put on like coat. No dress is more
delightful If properly made, than an
Empire ball gown. but it should have
it's little narrow corselet formed of
the lining No corset should ever be
worn with an Empire dress.
Every one must have noticed the
popularity of bead and bead necklaces.
Even with the severest tailored gown,
strings of turquoise, pearl, Jade, coral D.
or colored glass beads are worn. One
pays as high as SIS for string of glass
beads. These are supposed to be Vene-
tan, but most of them are made in
Providence, Rhode Island, and other
American cities. There is a green bead
which rivals Jade for translucence and
tender coloring. Pink coral and white
coral are in high favor. For some rea-
son amber is not much worn. The
milky amber is beautiful, but too eX-
pensive to tempt everybody. If one is
adventurous and is willing to explore
downtown tobacco shops, especially
those owned by Orientals amber beads
in every shade of yellow and orange
brown may be bought for much less
than the uptown shops demand. Al
string of large beads may be had for
ten dollars downtown that would be Is
or 20 in other localities. There is pro-
badly no scintilla of truth in the theory
that amber possesses therapeutic pow
ers, yet many people today buy small
strings of amber heads to protect ba-
bfes from Group. People get a great
deal of comfort sometimes out of their
superstitions.
Along with the craze for beads is a
vogue for what is called pebble jewel
ry that is, semi-precious stones in ar
tistic gold or silver settings. Topaz,
turquoise, opal. and the matrices of the
last two stones, jade, carnelian, lapis,
and other stones chosen for their color
rather than their briIliance, are used
largely for the new jewelry. Necklaces
are usually the expression of the art. A
chain set with jewels and a Jeweled
pendant comprise the usual necklace of
this sort. When well designed and
made they are truly beautiful, but there
is a great deal of this kind of jewelry
that is simply grotesQue.
In New York are a number of Ar
menian jewellers who design and make
These men make great deal of thu
lovely work shown in a shop noted
above all others for it's unique jewelry.
All of it is supposed to be imported
whether so represented or not-and
some Of it unquestionably is, but the
humble little jeweleF from Armenia
makes a great deal of it right here
One of these men was asked If the arts
and crafts workers who haunt his lit
tie shop for old stones and old gold,
made pieces that met with professional
approval. He answered that they did
admirable work, but that to an Orien-
tai all western eyes seemed incapable
of seeing color in it's minute and sub
tie phases. MY family have been jewel
workers for 900 years he said. Think
of an eye trained in color for 300 yearst
The Armenian jeweler has trays and
drawers full of the most fascinating
beads, jewels, principally Opaque stones.
ETC.. in which he works. He has beads
from mummy cases and bits of gold
from Roman and Etruscan tonnbs. He
can mend and restore the most ancient
rnonds and other glittering gems. He
detests them, and cannot handle them
His customers are ar
tistic souls who agree with him that
color is better than brilliance.
Whether or not the high crown hat
will hold its own is still a question. At
present a definite crown is in evidence
in most or the mOdelS described Dy the
milliner as blocked" But plateaus
bent into all conceivable shapes to suit
the myriad types of faces are equally
popular, and all varieties of turbans
and toques, fiat and medium crown,
prevail.
In felt hats there is a gratifying as
sortment this season for the woman
who plays miIliner for herself and her
brood But the best shapes are fast
being thinned out and stocks are, in
act, pretty we'll depleted already
Shaggy beaver cloth makes up some OF
he most stunning hats for semi-dress
use. In soft creams, ivory white.
browns. and tans they are in highest
'avor. Big, soft petalled roses, plumes
Of all kinds and supple glossy ribbons
Frightened with jewelled ornaments
rim them. Quilts never occupied a
higher place in hat trimmings than at
he present minute. Sumptuous feath-
rs dyed in rich colors or shading
through soft tones give a smart touch
md becoming lines to many hat that
would otherwise be mediocre.
Fetching little ramelkins are made
ike the clay casseroles, unglazed OUT
tide, glazed inside and with stumpy
handles.
One of the newest candle and lamp
hades is of unpublished copper cut out
n delicate leaf patterns. Red silk is
1sed for a lining, and the glowing effect
# the design is striking against alight