Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-29
A RIOT OF COLOR
Kaleidoscope Effects 0utdone
by Women.
AMERICAN BEAUTY RED
A faint OF ORANGE HANGS OVER
ALL BROWNS.
Chiffon Flowers and Flowery Brocades
Made Up with
Velvets.
AMERICAN BEAUTY RED



To look through a narrow doorway upon
an afternoon function where women pre-
dominate is like taking a glimpse into
kaleidoscope. Graceful figures and fair
faces are hidden from view, or at least
overshadowed by q riotous commingling of
colors, and the man or woman who Is I'M
prepared for the view will turn away with
the despairing comment that the American
woman has gone color mad
When cog. de roche first appeared in mil
linery schemes it was said that 1t was
merely to relieve with flash of its fame
light more somber background, but that
was mere promise. There is nothing SOM
Der, and. alas! little that is dignifed about
the fashions of the present year. Yellow,
orange. red and a pastel blue that can
hardly be termed soft, made their appear
ance early In the fall as trimming. With
slight modification and suggestion Of ton
Ing down, they now appear as solid fabrics.
The Influence of orange is shown in all
the brown colorings, such as burnt tomato,
tobacco brown, onion brown and subdued
sanron. These hues are particularly en-
pioyed In evolving the redingote effects,
and tight long basques of the directore
period. They are apt to be made up on
very severe lines. with lighter or deeper
tone of yellow suggested in the colorfng of
vest and cuffs. Enormous buttons are en-
are set with topaz SO much the better.
Directoire Hats.
With this style of costume is worn "a
directoire hat in felt or velvet, or silk
braided in chenille, with a bird-of-paradise
plume in myriad shades of brown and
orange Enormous silk roses showing the
same flaming tints. are used also on these
directoire hats
For the ultra-faddish woman comes the
most trying shade of all, American beauty
red. This is more rose-colored than any
FABRIC tone which has appeared in the mar
ket for some time. 1t is the exact shade of
the heart Of an American beauty rose in
full bloom.
In two gorgeous theater coats, American
beauty broadcloth was combined with
black velvet and oriental embroidery in
faded tints of blue, heliotrope. green and
white and gold. Far more gorgeous was
theater costume in this same broadcloth
embroidered in gold and edged with err
mine. The ermine stole was clasped with
gold eagles head, set in jewels
The smartest green used for house gowns
Is sage or tea green, and this, too. is
combined with white and gold embroidery,
to say nothing of tinted laces Repousse
lace comes in saffron, corn color, baby
blue nile ggeen, turquoise blue, pale pink.
salmon pink and a delicate pea-green. In
renaissance lace comes enormous butter
flies In all the colors to match the fash
1onable cloths. such as brown, blue, green
anu ~ uhC COlOl. 1HeS6 DutterHleS may De
appl1qued of inset and both yak and Cluny
lace are offered in insertions and fiounces
to match the deep colors employed for
street gowns.
The Louis Sets.
A picturesque touch is given to both
street and house gowns by the Introduction
of Louis sets in embroidered and braided
satin. These show a vest, collar revers
cuffs and pocket flaps in white and cream
tanetaS satin ,broi ~,
all the delicate shades. They are edged
with gold bullion and piped with satin to |
match the predom1nattng color in the flow
ers. very beautiful set for wear with |
a pastel blue brOadcloth suit showed an |
odd combination Of the blue and dull pink |
In the embroidery. These sets come also
In leather or suede with flowers in hand
painting.
If tailor-made gown Is built from a
smooth-faced cloth of somewhat subdued |
coloring, it is relieved by the most dashing
and eccentric trimmings. A dark blue
broadcloth is trimmed around the foot of |
the skirt and lavishly on the coat, with a !
triangular galloon which combines en- |
oroidery and braid on broadcloth. The |
foundation is brick-red broadcloth, and the |
triangular pattern is outlined by shaded |
braid, showing gold, emerald green SAT-
from, blue and black, inside of which runs |
fine vine in black silk embroidery.
Exquisite Touches.
Embroidered insets and medallions for |
combination with white evening or house |
gowns show the most exquisite of old |
world colorings. An irregular galloon, |
which at the distance gives the effect of
Marie Antoinette garlands, is found on |
close examination to be heavy white silk. |
outlined by a filigree in gold embroidery, |
In the center of which rise perfect little |
flowers done in ribbon embroidery |
Even the delicate all-over laces and en- |
broidered nets in all white cannot escape |
the rage for color. These robes are ap- |
pl1qued at frequent intervals, sometimes as |
a head for the f1ounce and sometimes |
merely with the air of being scattered |
carelessly over the fabric, with the most |
yellows and green's These flowers can |
now be bought singly or In sprays. lust as |
galloons and medallions are to be had, and |
they are particularly effective on net and |
lace gowns for young girls
Leaving the field of girlish evening frooLs
the shopper In search of dinner or dance |
gown finds herself swept into veritable |
wilderness of brocades and velvets For
every brocade there comes a name ar nIain
veiVet 10 match the predominating color |
tone In the figure. A white surface is |
proken by American beauty roses and buds, |
in natural size. and the rose velvet is EN-. |
pioyed as gfrdle, very high and pointed in |
the back. and bows to finish off a nom |
padour skirt, which opens over a panel of |
white chiffon.
In Yellow Brocade.
dinner gown of pale yellow brocade. |
with enormous blue flowers is combined |
with two shades of velvet, the corn color |
and sapphire blue, which in alternate folds |
OF puffs form the elbow-length sleeves. For |
brunettes a white brocade with Jacquemi- |
not roses and rich red velvet to match is |
a most effective color scheme.
house dress in amethyst silk and panne |
velvet strikes less daring, but neverthe- |
less effective, color note. The skirt of ben |
galine silk is tucked infinitely and closely |
over the hips, with plain, narrow-g ored |
effect in the front. The cores spread enor-
mously around the foot. where the three
inch hem is headed by shirring of the vel
vet of equal width, giving, as a whole, the
desired crinoline effect.
The bodice is of velvet, draped across the |
front and fastened a little to the left side |
with straps of velvet finished with tiny
Jeweled buttons. The yoke and tight-fitting |
Guns are of pale ecru point de Paris fin
fshed around the throat and wrist with a
fold of palest blue satin. The sleeves are
large puffs from shoulder to elbow. made /
of two-inch shirrings and puffs of the vel
vet. The collar is finished back and front
with small rhinestone buckles.
A reception gown of finely checked velvet
tones under artificial light to American
beauty red, with lines of dead white. The
bodice Is finely corded from the underarm
seams up to the narrow vest, giving the eff
feet of bolero. The shirred girdie of vel