Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1904-01-21
NEW YORK FASHION LETTER
The Young Women Figuring on Spring
nnd summer CORNERSTONE Taking
Novelties.

son when the woman who can figure so
lar ahead buys her spring and summer
gowns. Now one has a choice of the
newest and dantiest fabrics besides the
rarest novelties in trimming.
Every ono is wondering whether the
military fashions that now obtain VIII
linger through the winter season and
be fashionable at Eastertide and subse-
quently during the spring. They are GER
tainly very pretty and designed after
IDEAS that are not at all masculine. The
broad effect which they give the should
erS Is boon to the narrow back, nat
chestcd sisterhood and there are hun
dreds of ways of modifying these particu-
lars TO SUIT women with whom nature
has been more generous.
W neither the vogue Will remain or not
II Is remarked at present that many Of
the advance styles show military effects
IN some way or other. Even the most dell
cate gowns of silk and crepe have orna-
ments of thick cords, ending in tassels of
greater or less size and wide bands of wo-
Ven gut Grey SILK null Is FABRIC which
VIII snare popular favor with white.
1t comes in the most delightful tints,
varying from smoke to delicate pearl
and nothing prettier can be imagined
than nome gown OF this material trim
med with heavy white honiton laces--
tor the thinnest fabrics take the heaviest
faces, you KNOW. Inc lace covers the
front panel of the skirt. being appliqued
over the material in an original design
Tie sides of the skirt are plain, but
again at the back the panel effect is re
peatcd with the lace. A heavy white
silk lining holds out the skirt.
The bodice hooks up the back. which
Will be true of all the smart waists of
spring ana summer. Bands of the lace
slope from the shoulders and almost
cover The entire front The sleeves are
full and rather tight above the elbow,
falling down with deep cuffs of the lace
at the wrists.
Another fashionable fabric is hand
painted gauze, or rather it has the effect
OF genuine art. for In most instances
the painting is woven into the goods
through some marvellous achievement
of the manufacturers skill. The gauze
is usually shown in faint and blurred
pompadcur designs of roses. peoples or
punches Of wisteria blossoms. thus afford
Ing delightful combinations of velvet and
taffcta in the color scheme.
In building the dainty color narmonics
this season smart modistes never contne
themselves to one material In the first
place the subtle effect of perfectly blend
ed tnts cannot be gained by this method
then the result is more than apt to be
stir. If only two shades of the same
color are TO be combined. velvet-prc-
ferably pannc-and tafeta should be
used, the former being in the darker
shade and serving as a background. If
three is the aim then chiffon should be
added. this being reserved Tor the most
delicate tint
White froGks whether they be of silk
or cotton, must have the ethereal look
of fairy belongings. This is the dis
tinSulshahle feature of these gowns. To
gam this effect the delicate l;.ces and
cmhroidcrieS are reserved for their decor
alton. The NOR" massive garnishments
can be used riotously on tinted dresses.
pensivc either. is developed in crepe al
batross, This material combines the quail
tiles of two very fashionable fabrics with
little of their cost, for it comes very
wide anG at prices ranging from forty
nine cents up. The skirt is draped over
with tucks and lace these forming a
deep nip-yoke. The bottom is finished
with a tiource headed with two rows of
mcdallions. with strips of lace insertion
running over il diagonallv and crisis
crossing to form squares. Under this Is
Il trou-frou of plated silk null which
makes an effective footing for the drop
skirt.
Following the prevailing mode the bod
ice is supplied with a deep round yoke.
coming down very long over the shoulder
with lace medallions going all around il
as "A finish The high collar is formed
of medallions of lace. caught together
and held in place by tiny bones
Another dainty support for sheer lace
collar is a wire wound with silk threads
and run along the upper edge of the
lace This is preferable to the bones I'm
many instances, especially if the lace is
so transparent that the bones cannot Inc
concealed EFFECTIVELY
The pure white ruchincs for the neck
have succumbed to The rage for lace
decoration With so large IA demand for
fluffy neck effects. it is impossible
to retain plain decoration for
drcssy gowns. Instead of the SIM
pie crinhlcd gauge which constituted the
correct thing when these ruchiugs were
first introduced. one sees now puhines
of gauze hold together between inscr-
tions of lace and there is no end to the
touches that can be added to the lat
ter. In fact there are few of the elegant
laccs nowadays that are not enriched
with traceries of costly threads
Chiffon velvet, whose beauty and ee-
Iancc have been feebly described prr-
viously in this correspondence is groS-
ing in favor amonO fashions elite. CHE
of Gotham's debutantos counts amsng
her prettiest gowns street dress of this