Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-06-11
SUMMER ENTREES
Frogs LegsgE and Soft Shell
Grabs Both in Season.
THE CREOLE STYLE
DELICATE vdANDs SERVED A LA
MARYLAND.
Dishes That Appeal Strongly to the
Gourmet and Others
THE CREOLE STYLE


and frogs legs, either of which appeals to
the languishing appetite.
The soft shell crab Is in reality only the
hard shell crab in the Transformation stage.
At this season of the year the hard crab
begins to shed It's shell and tries to re-
tire into secluded corner until the new
shell becomes hard enough to protect 1t and
justify 1t in again appearing in public. Dur
ing this metamorphosis, which lasts three
Gays, the flesh of the crab takes pc
cullar flavor, particularly pleasing to the
epicure, but denounced by many dietitians
as unhealthy, as all animals are physically
affected by the process of moulting, wheth-
er 1t be feathers or shells.
To preserve the finest flavor of the soft
shell crab, chefs maintain that it must be
pulled apart while still alive, washed and
wiped, rolled in beaten egg, bread crumbs,
pepper and salt and cooked at once in bOils
Ing fat. Cooked in this simple fashion and
served with sauce tartate, the soft shell
crab appeals strongly to the gourmet.
Soft Shell Crabs In Creole Style-The
Creole delights In chowders of all sorts,
and none is more delicate than this one
made of soft shell crabs. To make rather
more than quart of the chowder put half
an ounce of butter in saucepan, and when
1t begins to color add a chopped onion, an
pepper, freed of all seeds, and shredded
with little salt and pepper Stir all to-
gether until the vegetables are brown. Then
add quart of consomme, tablespoonful
or raw rice, six ochres and one tomato
sliced. Let all cook slowly for half
hour, then add the meat of three large soft
shell crabs which have been carefully wash
ed. prepared and minced. Cook five min
utes longer and serve very hot.
Broiled Soft Shell Crabs-No method of
cooking the crabs is more delicate. Choose
large fine crabs, dip in melted butter and
season lightly with salt and pepper. Ar
range on a gridiron and broil until they
take q delicate brown color, turning from
side to side every few minutes. Arrange
on rounds of toast and pour over them hot
melted butter, Favored with a little lemon
juice and chopped parsley.
Fried Crabs Maryland Style.-To be at
their best fried crabs must be simply cook
ed Any thick coating of butter or flour
serves only to spoil the delicate flavor. The
eastern shore Maryiahder, who knows crabs
at their finest, chooses large ones that are
absolutely soft, a condition which lasts only
a few hours. Then be dries them careful
ly, seasons lightly with salt and pepper.
fries in liquified butter to a rich brown, and
serves them on q hot, platter garnished with
parsley and quarters of lemon.
The hind legs of frogs make delicious
entrees, and may be served in surprisingly
varied style. They are to be bought ready
for blanchfng from the average butcher,
though in large'eities they must sometimes
be spoken for dayslin advance.
To blanch frogs legs lay them in a por-
celain dish and cover with boiling water
Remove from the water drain. dry thor
oughly dust with -four, and they are ready
for cooking. They must not cook too long
and must be daintily garnished for serving.
, Broiled Frogs Legs.-This Is perhaps the
most delicate way of cooking the frog.
Select fine. large legs and blanch them in
scalding water. Place In dish and pour
over them olive oil seasoned with salt
pepper and a little lemon juice in about the
proportion of two tablespoonfuls Of oil to a
dozen frogs. Let them remain In the mix
ture for several minutes, moving them
about sufficiently to make them come in
contact with the OIL Drain and arrange on
oyster broiler and cook over a clear fire
for eight to ten minutes. turning from side
to side Serve on hot platter with maitre
d'hotel sauce, garnished generously with
parsley.
Fried Frogs Legs-To make a specially
attractive entree for either luncheon or din
ner, -put the frogs legs in an earthen dish
with a marmalade5 composed of olive oil.
lemon juice onion and other seasoning in
the proportions of one tablespoonful Of olive
oil the juice of half a small lemon, half
small onion sliced, branch of parsley and
two bay leaves for each dozen legs Add
salt and pepper and let stand for an hour
during which time turn the frogs legs sew
eral times. At the end of that time drain
them, sprinkle lightly with salt and pep
per- dip in milk and roll lin -four Fry in
smoking hot oil until colored a bright
brown. Garnish with fried parsley and ma So
lemon sauce with them
To make the sauce put the Juice of a
large lemon In porcelain-lined sauce
pan with one-quarter of a pound Of but
ter and a dash each of salt and pepper
TO In fro
comes thick and hot but do not allow IT
to reach the boiling point Stir in the
beaten yolks of two eggs and stand over
hot water lew moments before serving
Frogs Legs Baked With Mushrooms
Blanche the frogs legs as already direct
ed. Peel. wash and mince the mushrooms
and sift on brown bread crumbs. Put
thick layer of the bread crumbs and
mushrooms in a baking dish and Law the
frogs over the top. Season lightly with
salt and pepper and cover with the sec
ond layer or mushrooms and crumbs
Squeeze the juice of lemon over the
whole and pour In cupful of brown
stock. Cover the pan and bake in mod
crate oven for half an hour. Then remove
the cover, brown quickly and serve with
out removing from the dish.
Frogs Legs Stewed.-To make an en-
tree sufficient for eight persons n1aca
three dozen frogs legs in q saucepan
with a dozen fresh mushrooms. four sha-
lots chopped and two ounces of butter
Toss over the fire9for five minutes. then
stir in a tablespoonful Of flour. season
with salt and pepper and a dash of nut
meg. and moisfen with a claret glass of
white wine and cupful of stock. Boil
slowly for ten minutes. Beat the yoIks of
four eggs with two tablespoonfuIs of
cream; Remove the legs from the Are and
add little of the sauce to the eggs. stir
ring all the time! when the eSgs orc
heated add to the12egs, mix thoroughiy
and serve at once