davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-12-18

the novelties; and since they afford an outline differing strongly from that to which we have been accustomed they have met with a hearty welcome.
 Tho braids which are making a furore for themselves in trimming and trim ming effects were never so beautiful. so artistic. nor capable of arrangement in so many different and easy ways.
 Ribbons, too, arc forging to the fore. Every width, from the baby width that Is pulled and run in as a trimming edge to some larger and elaborate design. up to and including sash widths, find appli- cation and representation in the seasons modes. The ribbons are mostly of the Dresden designs on silk or satin grounds, and they are appliqued plain shirred, pleated or puffed, and quite often nar- row braid IS used to frame the design.
 But in the passementeries that the importers are showing in such large quantities and exquisite designs the height Of the trimming extravaganza is reached. One handsome velvet wrap shows design oI a grapevine, in which the leaves are Of silk, with a sputache edge, the grapes done in chenille and padded out to natural shape and size, and the many tendrils executed in a silk cord. To this was added deep, thick knotted silk fringe. that made the de- sign run close to a half yard in depth and increased it's effectiveness and beau ty wonderfully.
 Buttons, too, come in for their share of recognition in the general trimming scheme, and all sorts and shapes ana sizes are called upon to aId in securing the desired effect. And tasseIs. too, are noI lacking.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-12-18

The girl of dainty tastes and ideas pays much attention to her lingerie these days. and always welcomes some new Idea that makes for prettiness and prac- ticality at the same time.
 Iris quite surprising what number of girls make all of their own dainty un- derwear, and are more than proud of the fact, too. The revival of so many old fashions in dress has brought about revival of some of the fads that were in vogue with the gowns and hats and wraps of other days. and of these the cul. of the needle has not been by any means neglected.
 The prevalence of the poke bonnet brings at once to mind the quaint old reticule that grandmother carried in the days when she, too, wore a poke bonnet and old books are being ransacked for the patterns of the beaded bags that are held at such an exorbitant price in the exclusive and incidentally expensive shops today. The exchanges for woman's work say that they have more orders for those dainty little bags than their work CTS can fill. and no doubt many girl who has planned to have one for Christ mas will be doomed to disappointment. unless she beStirS nerSelt 10 us making with her own fingers.
 However, we started out to discuss some of the new lingerie. The fact that the handmade and sheer lingerie blouse Is destined not only to maintain all of It's vogue, but to increase 1t. will mako many girl give serious thought to the matter of corset covers. Indeed. this one-time despised article takes on a new and added importance in the prep arations for new wardrobes that are under way in many brains. if not many sewing rooms.
 The very slender girl will continue to wear the little French cover, and this is really at its most dainty best when all fashioned by hand. There is quite a fad in some circles for the ribbon shoulder strap; but one of the best Iingeres in New York declares that her most particular clients reject this style, claiming that the ribbon bow makes an unsightly bunch upon the shoulder. and besides is given to slipping down. to its wearers discomfort.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-12-18
Description of Above
 Models.

IN THE sEMBLANCE OF A SUIT.
 One has to look more than once to de- eide whether this very smart wrap Is not really coat and skirt suit. True. 1t is fashioned in two parts, jacket and skirt portion, and the two are clev- erly united by a shaped belt at the waistline, the belt so cut that 1t slopes to the hips and makes the waistline seem so much longer. The coat follows the fascinating blouse lines that simply refuse to pass out from among current fashions but the blouse portion is not nearly so bouffant as it used to be. There is well-cut curve to the under arm portion, which defines the figure lines. and the prevailing fad for vests and vest effects is followed i'll an inser- ton of creamy white cloth that tones in well with the brown of the coat. There is a fancy velvet collar in brown piped with white. and many handsome buttons go to it's adornment. The skirt portion shows triple box pieats in the back. and double ones either side of the front, the sides being gored to fit, and the sleeve follows the extreme of fitness, shirred with many rows of stitching into the arm size, and finished with an upstand- ing cum of velvet that FOLLOWS the laney collar in design.
 EXQUISITE THEATER WRAP OF
 VELVET AND ERMINE.
 The velvet wran, be 1t simple or elaoo- rate in construction and detail. IS uh- doubtedly at once the richest ana most becoming expression of the modes thae are current. The extreme of elaboration Is shown in the wrap of the picture. a garment that embodies many 1ascinat- ing features of fashion. The new tint in mulberry purple, purple that shows a distinct reddish tone. Is used. and on this there is employed passementerie in silk and chenille, showing grape design that is dyed to the exact shade of the velvet. The yoke that performs the fitting over the shoulders is cos
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-12-18
Fascinating Fancies in Lingerie.

The stout sister will welcome a novel design that has a front furnished with the usual fitted waist seams, each with removable whalebone or featherbone run in. The back Is arranged with straps that cross over, and according to the tightness with which they are drawn tho bust can be made smaller. AS corset cover to be worn with a shirtwaist this will prove distinct success, and the blessing is that they can be had in almost any shop.
 In pantalons there is a new pattern that is delightful for both the slender and the stout gir'. This is cut exactly circular. so that there Is neither darts nor fitness over the hips, and ones thin dresses will set all the better for this. The part at the knee can be made either full and fluffy or scant and plain, just as the maker decides; but with the fashion promised for future wear, thei very full pantalon-i e.. close at the waist and full at the knee-will fill a place.all its own.
 While the athletic girl leans muchly to the pajama for her bedroom wear. there are others to whom the frills of a nightgown appeal with tremendous 1orce. Some Of the latest importationS are full enough ana elaborate enough to make their appearance as tea gowns. and no one would ns bit the wiser for the substitution. The necks are cut square and moderately low. and a Watteau pleat that extends Into a full train is the feature par excellence. This Is repeated in modified measure in the front, and the hair sleeve Is usually of the ombrelle order and covered with multitude of lace ruffies.
 Of course. there are others less elabo- rate. and of these the empire, or rather the empress, gown is one of the most attractive. This is fashioned with deep and decollete yoke. usually in ern- broidery fiouncing, or made up of al- ternate strips of lace and embroidery. This comes to just below the bust, with a seam under the arms, and to this the very full skirt is shirred, with a broad ribbon beading for 8 heading. The sleeve Is just a loose frill that comes halfway to the arm, and this, too. Is decorated with the ribbon-run beading
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-12-18

This is season when trimmings are n1oying vogue that has not been theirs for many a long day; and. in seed. when one comes to think it over, 1t must be confessed that the smartest and most fascinating garments of the year depend upon their trimmings rather than upon cut or material for their dis tinctive cachet.
 Really 1t would seem as though there were hardly weave in silk and woolen goods upon which Dame Fashion has not set the seal of her approval this year. One sees wraps of exquisite vel- vet in many differing weaves; silks are right in tho front rank and so many Of them that one has no chance to com plain of monotony in either weave or coiorfng; and as for the woolen weaves their name Is legion, and mention of the few were invidious to the many.
 The early season dictum of long and loose must be changed somewhat, for while the iooseness continues. the length is now altogether a matter of personal preference or caprice.
 While the three-quarter coat Is still popular. one sees just about as many half-lengths. It all depends upon the size, shape and build of the Wearer- The three-quarter ccat is orlginaiiy meant for the tall and slender girl. and she has made her own of 1t. but sue is not all the population by any means; and hence, the vogue of other styles and other lengths in the seasons wraps
 The correct outline calls for smooth, though not at all snug. fit over the shoulders; and from there the coat hangs in full and fuller folds right to the hem. at whatever point that may occur.
 usually the point of departure In all of the styles; and the new ones are no ex- ception to this well-established rule. There are sleeves that look as big as they did in the days when men stuffed pillows into them to hold them out. To- day the pillow stuffing is lacking. but the sleeve Is Just as big, though not so obtrusively so. Then there are sleeves that follow the severe tailor coat line. and almost define the shape of the arm they cover.
 The gigot or leg-of-mutton sleeve that has been so often written about. but so far seldom seen. is beginning to make more general appearance upon the dressy wraps, but in the lighter weight materials only. Doubtless the makers of the mode deem it 8 too bulky and cumbersome pattern 10 be artistically developed in the heavier woolens that tae wintez season on this side of the Atlantic demand. However. Its ultimate popularity and general adoption is mere ly a matter of time and the suitable ma terials.
 The cana anh doinnan aIeeyes--they are cousins -German--Ars -emong the best of
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-12-18
A NEW SHAPE COAT FOR WINTER.

A loose-htting garment is useful at this time of the year. and as the sleeves are cut wide, a trimmed blouse or d fancifully made bodice can be worn un- derneath without being crushed. If made of reversible tweed or cloth the garment need not be lined at the back, but in any case the fronts should be faced back with China silk or satin faced striped cotton lining, and to pre- vent the coat front getting out of shape the material should be dampened and ironed before 1t is cut up. The fronts must also be interlined with real tailor linen canvas, and to do away with the possibility of spelling good material through having cut any part too small, it would be best to make a model of the garment in u common lining and get that properly adjusted to the figure. The same model can be used for making a larger or smaller size coat at any time by simply increasing or decreasing the width of the front piece at the side and down the center of the back and will save the expense of buying apother pattern. The skirt is in five pieces, 1. e., a front, side piece for each side and two backs and fastens at the back. The in- troduction of side piece gives addl- tiopal fulness over the hips. It is, therefore. comfortable shape for -ordi-i nary wear.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-12-18

cealed by the broad square collar of ermine, and from this the velvet gar ment falls in ever-increasing folds all most to the hem of the gown. There Is a bias seam down the center back, and the underarm seams follow the same line. The sleeve Is a very full and loose puff with a narrow band of ermine for the cuff, this being of the new wide and circular shape that hangs loose from the wrist. The passementerie is disposed in wavy lines that do much to break up the set look of the plain velvet coat and the collar of the ermine is continued in a single revere that meets the drapes fastening at the left side of the front. The low, round turban like wise employs the ermine for the brim. the crown being of white lace and a long white ostrich plume falling over the back. its tip touching the extreme of the low coiffure.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-12-18
oSHOLzlC Zz41yY .YDEZZ fZ14zZZ2EJ

The lingerie petticoat follows the new fashion of close-htting circular top. and very full and bouffant lines below the knee. Two or three flounces is consid- cred far smarter than a single one, and the best of them are cut circular and decorated with hand embroidery or ap- pliques of lace.
St. Tammany farmer. [volume] (Covington, La.) 1874-current, 1904-08-13
a. WORTHY RENEvOLENcE.
The Home for Orphaned Children at
Council Bluffs, Iowa, Started
FL Years Ago

Twenty-one years ago Rev. J. G.
Lemen, pastor of large church at
Council Bluffs, Ia, took into his home
:hree orphaned children in need Of
such a refuge. Learning of other
homeless little ones he soon filled : is
house with them, until his own re-
sources were exhausted, and he saw
the necessity for larger quarters, which
he secured. Out Of this benevolent
movement has grown well-estab-
lished and well-appointed permanent
home for needy orphaned little ones,
and it is stated about 215 such children
are now being cared for in the Is cottages
and other buildings belonging to the
organization founded by Mr.. Lemen.
The Home is non-sectarian- and is in
dorsed and supported by all denomina-
tions. Children are frequently adopt
cd by families whose good character
has been vouched for. A valuable lit
tie paper, the subscription price Of
which is rs cents per year, is pub
lished ny the workers It is called
"The Word and the Way" Informa-
ton regarding the carrying on of the
good work may be obtained by adj
dressing the Christian Home at Coun-
Gil Bluffs, Ia.
St. Tammany farmer. [volume] (Covington, La.) 1874-current, 1904-08-13
FACTS ABOUT BEET SUGAR.
Industry Il Growing and Many New
Factories Will Be Built in
Near Future.

According to the United States de.
partment of agriculture, there has been
an increase in the number Of beet
sugar factories in the United States
from 43 at the close Of 1902 to Sc at the
beginning of 1904 Fifty of these were
in operation during the Campaign OF
1903. The crop of 1903 amounted to a
little more than 2,OOO,O00 tons harvest
ed from 242,576 acres, the average
yield being about eight and cne-half
tons per acre. The prices which far
mers receive for beets, ranged from
$3.50 to $3.50 per ton, the average be-
ing IS. The average gross returns to
the farmers were therefore $3.50 per
acre. The estimated cost of growing
beets by irrigation is $40 per acre, and
where irrigation is not necessary, $50.
If $35 be taken as the average for the
whole crop of 1908, IT, average net
profit to farmers was $3.50 per acre.
In some of the sugar'beet areas, the
returns were much higher than this
average. AS in prediction Of other
crops, much depends az the season, the
character of the land. and the kind OF
farmer. Many farm&Js cleared from
SIS to $50 per acre. The best results
on record for 1903 wUre secured by q
farmer of Otero county. Col. He grew
one acre of sugar teets at a cost Of
about $3.50; the yield was 80 tons, for
which he received sS68, his net returns
being about $3.50. The sugar made from
the beet crop of 1868 was 240,6O4 tons,
compared with 21a,405 tons from the
crop of 1902, and 1s4.605 tons from that
of 1901. Within the past few years
there has been L remarkable increase
in the percentage of sugar in the beets.
A few years aga II per cent. of sugar
was the standard. Last year in many
cases the entire crop sold to factory
averaged Is to is per cent There is
a prospect that many new factories
will be built IN the next year or two.
Many improvements are being made IN
methods and machinery used in the
growing and handling Of tie beets.
The beet pulp produced by the fac
tories is used by the farmers as feed
for their animals more generally than
heretofore.
St. Tammany farmer. [volume] (Covington, La.) 1874-current, 1904-08-13
TWO PAT ILLUSTRATIONS.
In Which the True Source Of Physical
Strength Was Well
Set Forth.

Speaking of toads, with Incidental ref
erence to other salatory animal life, re-
calls a mot attributed to one Of the JUS
tees of the supreme court, which has
been giving the Washington gosslps good
deal Of amusement of late, says the New
York Evening post He was dining the
other evening with the family of a dis
tinguished ex-senator, who are noted for
their extravagant advocacy of the vege-
tartan diet. Over the delicacies of the
table, which included pretty nearly every
form of edible plant life suited to the
season, conversation turned upon the ia
miliar theme; and the hostess, after try
ing in vain to convert her beef
guest by arguments based on the chemical
constituents of various food, pleaded: :.
But surely, Mr.. Justice, you must ad-
NIT that vegetarianism means strength
and agility, when you remember that the
rabbit, which feeds wholly on vegetables,
can make such great leaps through the air
from hiding place to hiding place"
True, madam" answered the, jurist,
gravely, but we must also remember that
the minute creature for which naturalists
claim the ability to jump more times its
own length than any other, belongs to
the class of pure carnivora."
St. Tammany farmer. [volume] (Covington, La.) 1874-current, 1904-08-13
Road Work for Convicts.

n may never be governor again."
said David R. Francis, in an address
to the recent good roads convention In
St Louis, "but If were to be. !.
would surely put convicts on the
highways. It might cost the taxpay-
ers little more to work the states
prisoners on the roads than it does
to keep them locked up, but the uIti-
mate results would probably be more
profitable to the state than would be
the results from any other use that
they could be put to. The outdoor
work would be good for the convicts'
health, and would, therefore, accord
ing to the best authorities, exert a
stronger influence upon them than in
door work does, and the products OF
their labor would not then come into
competition with the products Of fres
labor. kansas City Journal.
St. Tammany farmer. [volume] (Covington, La.) 1874-current, 1904-08-13
SAVED cHILD's LIFE.
Remarkable Cure Of Dropsy by Dodd's
Kidney Pills.

Sedgwick, Ark, July 1.-THE case Of w.
8. Taylor's little son is looked upon by those
interested in medical matters as one Of the
most wonderful on record. In this connec-
ton his father makes the following state
ment:
Last September, my little boy had
Dropsy; his feet and limbs were swollen
to such an extent that he could not walk
nor put his shoes on. The treatment that
the doctors were giving him seemed, to do
him no good and two or three people said
his days were short, even the doctors, two
Of the best in the country told me he would
not get better. I stopped their medicine
and at once sent for Dodd's Kidney Pills.
gave him three Pills a day, one morning,
noon and night fol-. eight days; at the end
Of the eighth day the swelling was all gone,
but to give the medicine siG g'thie Pin s1n
n ali and he was entirely cured. I consider
YOUR medicine saved my child . life. When
the thirtyys Pills were were gS gwen h before ne
he was an invalid in his mothers arms
from morning until nigh"
St. Tammany farmer. [volume] (Covington, La.) 1874-current, 1904-08-13
sUsPENDERs AND SUSPENSE
What Uncle Sam Needs the Former
For as Stated by Hating
Speaker.

"A certain congressman from a mountain
district, says the New York Sun. is trou-
bled with weak, squeaky little voice.
which sometimes fails IN the midst AZ
what might otherwise be an ELOQUENT per
Grafton. ~
Recently in addressing the house ON :
matter kconnected with tariff, he ex
claimed:
why, tariffs are like pair Of suspen.
ders, sometimes tight and sometimes loose:
but Uncle Sam needs them just the same
to keep up his"
Here the eongressman's voice struck 4
high treble note, Rared and stopped.
The house held its breath while he
cleared his throat. The suspense, which
seemed to last for fully q minute, was
more painful to the auditors than to the
orator, for everyone was wondering
whether he would! say trousers" or
pants" and some were even hoping that
he might say "pantaloons." Even sover-
ais would be better than pants" for
pants" is most unparliamentary.
But al fears were without. foundation.
He cleared his throat with the greatest
care, and in q death-like stiffness resumed
his Grafton where he had dropped it: ito
keep up his running expenses,
The words which followed were lost
forever in . gale of laughter. ~
St. Tammany farmer. [volume] (Covington, La.) 1874-current, 1904-08-13
PRACTICAL FARM NOTES.

The economic value of all foods de-
pend upon their digestibility.
An animal must be kept in good flesh
and thriving to make it grow.
1t is very desirable to put the early
lambs to maturity as soon as possible.
One of the first things to be done on a
stock farm Is to improve the pastures.
The rearing and feeding of live stock
is the salvation of impoverished farms.
The greatest profit ir agriculture lies
in keeping every acre actively produce
ing.
Young and growing animals require
q food which will make muscle rather
than fat.
The farm teams accustomed to heavy
work should not be driven on the roads
rapidly.
Sheep need and must have plenty OF
grains and variety Of fodder to fatten
rapidly.
It is ever true that the good milk and
butter COW will turn her food into milk
and butter and not flesh.
The highest welfare of all domestic ami
mails requires that their food be not only
wholesome, but nourishing. Soldier
Tribune.
St. Tammany farmer. [volume] (Covington, La.) 1874-current, 1904-08-13
Good Feed for Dairy Cows.

Sooner or later we are going to have
trouble in some of our western states
on account Of fermented foods fed
dairy cows and the unsophisticated
state of some of the men engaged
in enforcing dairy inspection laws. We
heard recently of the attempt by an
assistant dairy and food commissioner
to stop the feeding of waste from thu
distilleries. Now, distillery waste.
brewers grains and silage are all
more or less fermented, when they
come to the COW, but they are good
feeds for all that. Sauerkraut is a
partly fermented food, but it is served
on all our tables, and no one finds
fault with 1t because of its partial fer
mentation.-Farmers Review.
St. Tammany farmer. [volume] (Covington, La.) 1874-current, 1904-08-13
WISE BEyo ND HER YEARS.
senafors cnllnn, and cannon R.fae.
~eby, 2 Bright Littls
al Girl.

At the republican state convention in
springfield, Ill, Senator Cullom and Speaker
cannon tried to get q popular ruling as to
which i the handsomer man, says the New
York Herald.
"If had . face like yours, joe" said the
senator, "Pd wear veil or build fence
around it"
"And if looked like you, Shelby" replied
"Uncle" Joe, "ld walk backward all the
time. Your rear elevation isn't % bad, but
the front facade is bad blotch."
''Pll tell you, Joe, well leave it to this
little girl. She doesn't want any political
job and guess she'll be honest, !" suggested
Senator Cullom.
The little girls mother was with hlr.'
(Which Do YOU think i the best looking,
Dorothyw asked the proud mother.
The child looked at both out Of big, frank
eyes and said: -,
Il don't like to say, mamma, which like
best. i might Tend Mr.. Cannon"