Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-09-16
AND WINTER
THE COMING MODE IN MEMS
DRESS FOR FALL.
The Walking Coat, the Cutaway and
the Frock-The Evening Suit and :.
the Gray Evening Jacket.
From the Haberdasher.

the tray evening Jacket.
From the Haberdasher.
Just now the enticements of life in the
open are so powerful that few of the set
which influences the mode will return to
town until extremely late. What with
riding, driving, golf. polo. tennis, motor
ing. boating and SO on, the country club
holds out diversions that are too alluring
to exchange for the staider pleasures in
town. The American is beginning to out
do even the Englishman in his passion
ate devotion to the sports, and he puts
off the time for getting into formal
clothes as long as possible.
The fashions are determined by what
well-dressed men wear, and not by what
the tailors, be their prestige ever so COM
| handing, set forth. During the last few
years the trend of the mode has been
| markedly toward conservatism as ex-
pressing the truest taste in dress, and
while autumn and winter clothes will not
lack brightness and color, they will be
of the unassertive sort. There is we'll
defined feeling among the men who really
help to form the fashions that revolution
airy notions are to be frowned down, and
while the faddist may gang his gait,
the well-dresSed man will hold his tailor
and haberdasher firmly in check. The
bigness and the fullness that characterized
clothes last season, and, in fact, for the
last few seasons. are just as noticeable
features of the fashions for autumn and
winter. This is traceable to the spread of
athleticism, often referred to. man who
Is accustomed to the easy, breezy dress
of the field must have clothes that give
free play to the body and do not cramp
or bind. Tight clothes are odious always,
but they are especially unacceptable to
him whose arms have been tanned and
whose muscles have been seasoned by
swinging club the links all sum-
mer. In cravatS and the other accessories
of dress the same tendency to amplitude
OF material Is evident. 1t even extends to
evening ties, which are broader this sea-
son than ever before. The wing collar
energies from it's summer eclipse as the
only smart form. Altogether / look for
season of taste and fitness without any
puerilities or insipidities to grieve the
judlciouS.
The Autumn Jacket.
The jacket for a man of normal height
will be twenty-nine and one-half inches
long in the back and have two side vents
four inches deep. The lapels will be
broad, but not long, there will be four
buttons in front. and the cut will be
square at the bottom, with just a hint of
rounding off. In the back the Jacket will
fall straight and free from the shoulders,
the cloth not being stinted. 1t will be
seen that the jacket of this autumn is
virtually the jacket of last spring Chew.
lots, tweeds and worsteds will be the ap-
proved fabrics. The new deep brown
shades shown by the upper class taiIors
are very pretty and will be largely ia
Vored by the younger set, while more
conservative men will stick to gray and
dark blue Trousers will be cut less wide
at the hip, but quite wide at the knee
and tapering into a springiness at the
potion, going into measurements saw
lWehty-one inches at the knee and say
nd fhraa
bottom. az 'iio
overcoats are still to be very loose. The
covert top coat will be longer than last
season-aoout thirty-four inches-wiu
nave moderately large lapel and two
vents In the back the same as the Jacket
mere Will be two rows of stitching on
the pocket flaps and ends and five rows
on the sleeves. Lap seams one-haIf innb
and a cloth collar complete tho garroant
me stitching throughout will be one.
man an inch apart. l think that the ChesL
.elneld VIII be the winter overcoat most
generally Endorsed. The rough surface
cloths are quite smart This, coat viii he
ABOUT 1orty-f1ve inches long wi1-hava
Iour buttons. broad lapel and a velvet
,,,hial IN place of the belted overcoat
Whlch has been vulgarized. generous lIo1,'
ple-preasted great coats fortv-eiebt
Inches long will be worn Evening and
!ormai afternoon dress demands the
emf d aoida9 ssirted oyercoat with skirts
Gut decidedly faring and bell-shane In
. .S the skirts will hang almost in folds
The lapel is of medium length V;cUn un,
used. " oe iafs eiy
Semi-Formal Dress, i
For semi-formal dress the c,ta WAY. o.
cupies its old place. 1t is more omen at.
the bottom in front and measures about 90
lnches The English walking or morning
coat is made the same as the cutauay a
cept That 1t has real side pockets. not mock
pockets, and pocket flaps 1t Ia fashioned
., fancy Oxfords, fancy cheviots and platds
De IL understood. the morning coat is in NO
s Sense FORMAL garment. but belongs in the
same class as the jacket 1t cannot take the
piace or the frock though 1t NAV be used
interchangeably with the cutaway Last
year lew men who can lay claim to smart
ness appeared at morning weddings In the
walking coat. but this practice did mot ha.
come general enough to lift this garment
TO the plane of the frock. 1t remains An in
formal coat, best suited for the purposes of
business and promenade.
Coming to the frock coat it is double
breasted, has three buttons and Iapels of
medium size, silk faced to the buttonhole.
The length is AZ inches and the skirts arc
full and 1aring. Single breasted frocks will
also be worn and these are silk faced to the
cage The frock coat, as hitherto is made
OF line black vicuna. So far as the swallow
tall Is concerned, it brings little change
from the models gone before The lapel is
silk faced to the edge and the collar is
never of the shawl type, but always pIain
Lie tdiio VI the COAT are long. and
narrow at the points. the whole garment
measuring 80 inches. Unfinished worste3 ia
the correct fabric Evening trousers are
cut full and quite straight with two rows
of silk braid 4 inch wide and u inch apart
or one plain broad braid down the outer
seams. There are two rows of silk soutache
around the waistcoat edge as a general
rule.
Evening Jacket
The evening jacket will be of the conyen
tional black. or of the newer dark Oxford
gray. The lapels are square. peaked and
very low-lying on one type. while another
has the usual shawl collar 1 favor the
first as more distinctive This has cloth
collar, whereas the other has a shawl col,
lar of merveilleux silk. The jacket is %
inches long. That this garment sticks in
spite of the fact that 1t has no real stand
ting In the domain of dress indicates that 1t
nils niche of Its own. We hear of the
passing of the evening jacket every now
and then, and find It with us at the begin
ming OF each fresh season. Various at
tempts have been made to retire or super-
sede the garment and they uniformly end
IN failure. l say. confne the Jacket TO fts
rlghtful plaee-assemblies of men at the
club and little gatherings en- famille-and
the problem is solved. That Is all there is
to Ii. -
Dress 70