The Birmingham age-herald., 1904-10-23

Madrid, October 9.-I really did not think would write you about the bull fight but somehow it is like Caesars ghost and will not down.
 Before we reached Spain we were uncer- tain whether we really cared to attend bull fight or not. Upon our arrival in Madrid we found the new law forbidding the holding of bull fights on Sunday had just gone into effect and consequently for a whole week the city was in a per- feet turmoil over the affair and none were given Then we suddenly acknowledged to each other that we must see bull fight or our trip to Spain would by no means be complete. So all during our stay In southern Spain we kept In tele- graphic communication with Madrid, as we had decided to return to the capital to see the first one given. Finally the message arrived that the date had been set, and will your eyebrows lift too scornfully if I admit that we sat up all night travelling in order to reach the cap ital at the appointed time? We found several American friends as eager and foolish as we were so we all went to- gether The New Yorker-and of course a level-headed man-took the lead for we were all in a perfect hutter. A mixture think of nervous excitement the wild est fear and pathetic sort of apprehen- sion.
 The amphitheatre like building is very similar to the colosseum at Rome and seats 10000 people. It is in the suburbs of Madrid and we drove out In cabs. We went first te visit the horses, l fear eX- pecting to see dashing looking animals and the poor old bony hacks that we did see were q distinct surprise as well as disappointment to us. Just before the fight begins the bulls are driven into an inner chamber where the men goad them from above and infurlate them to the utmost extent
 We were early in our seats, which were the best in the place and just under the presidents box. We were amused watch ing the crowd which gathered so rapidly until every place seemed to be taken The men predominated but there were also some children and many women in their picturesque black and white mantillas. Each bull ring has a hospital for wounded, and must also have a chapel, where the fighters prepare for combat by prayer and partaking of the Holy Flu charst.
 We learned that most bulls are reared in Andaluslan establishments. They must not be more than five years old and they are worth from two to three hundred dollars The bull fighters are also most ly Andalusians, though they come from the very lowest walks of life. They are recognizable on the streets from the short pig tail in which they wear their hair.
 The bull ring arena Is separated from the seats of spectators by wooden fence about five feet high. Though the gates on one side the Toros enter on the other the bulls. At the appointed time the police officers rode into the arena, clad in old Spanish dress, accompanied by sound of drum and trumpet. The peo- pie quickly took their seats and the arena was thereby cleared. Our hearts were literally in our threats as we await ed the opening of the performance.
 The officers were followed by a really brilliant procession of all those who were to take part, even including the gaily decorated mules that were destined to convey the worsted foe from the field of combat. The fight Is divided into three parts which we readily could see was for the greater protection of the mata- dors.
 I expected when I went there to see the most awful, the most brutal thing l had ever witnessed in my life. 1 nerved myself up to 1t, for somehow in Europe one so naturally is expected to Ego all the gaits." But l also expected to see some sort of sport! 1 thought there would be some seature of the old-time chivalry connected with it, so that l was in no way prepai ed for the absolutely brutal and degrading spectacle which followed As I looked on visions of Spains cruelty at home and abroad passed before my mind and this alone is sufficient to ex- plain it all. What is human suffering or bloodshed to people who from their in- fancy take amusement and delight in such scenes of blood? Think of witnessing a bull fight every week and oftentimes twice a week.
 When the young bull rushes into the arena, with the colors of his breeder streaming from his neck he is beauti- full animal and as he raises his head, sniffing the air madly and plunges at ev- erything in sight. there is sort Of eX- hiliration and one looks eagerly on. But quickly one realizes that the senseless brute gores meaninglessly at the flaming cloak held aloft by the matador, instead Of at the tantalizing man that holds it. then all the spirit of the sport is gone and it's most debasing attitude is alone apparent. They do not fail however, to hug the wall pretty closely and if the bull is too rampant, as he is apt to be at first 1t is perfectly good form to vault the fence and take refuge on the other side. .a-
 We were told that sometimes a matador arrays himself in pure white, and with no one else on the arena stands notion less as a statue in the centre when the bull enters. Almost invariably it is said the bull rushes up, gazes intently, sniffs in the air and turns and fees. This is