New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1904-01-31

try is one fearful wilderness. As far as eye can
see. over the tossing ocean OF sedge to the noun
tains beyond there Is sign OF life Nothing any
where but innumerabe mounds OF grass-the graves
Of all the Coreans dead IN ten thousand years
Everywhere graves and graves and graves
under wild. spitefIl sky, whose breath comes
acrd down from the north. laden with the white
dust OF the dead. Once twice perhaps a howell
may be seen. But at last, after crossing a viaduct
of modern construction. the train wanders into
sight of desolate road that leads up. in the face
of the wind. TO n mighty crenelIated wall. Here
the traveller alights and is conveyed in a rickshaw
impossible streets. under the great fantasti-
cally bedevilled gateway. into Seoul.
Here tramways instantly meet the eye and
Roman Catholic cathedral. There are also other
denOminat ional edihces. and legations. and a hotel
But though the blessings of civilization carried
so far. yet the East triumphs The open drains
the putrcscent dust, the broad cloaca that Oozes
through the city and supplies it with water all
combine TO teach the wanderer that he is indeed
In the most tranquil country OF the tranquil East.
The natives throng round the stranger with
stare Of dull curiosity. Vague. fiat. foolish faces
they have under the inevitable cap OF horsehar-
like skeleton Welsh hat--which is always worn
to shield the holy topknOt. The topGnot is of the
highest Importance and sanctity to every male
Corean. and though its scheme looks facility itself
(being only rough twist Of hair with a coral pin
jabbed through III. the compilation OF the topknot
is said 10 be a lengthy and arduous work OF art
requiring two o. more pairs of hands 1t is one OF
the principles TO which the Corean Is genuinely
attached and If ever a reform in the matter be
threatened the topknot promises TO become as dire
and catastrophe question wrecked the
career Of an innovator.
THE character OF the Corears is a riddle They
seem a sovereignty Indifferent TO the changes
and chances of this mortal life. They front life
and death with the uninterested placiditv
Fate leads them onward, and they go quietly like
cattle led to the shambIes. Little wonder that the
nations of the East have always treated them like
cattle. Opportunity excuses tyranny. The Corean
is fine. stout fellow with plenty of vigor. who
takes pleasure in wild and brutal stone fights; and
yet he is also passive. silent dolt who Will allow
himself even when in force. TO be beaten bulIied
and boxed by one Japanese small that he almost
requires a stool 10 reach his victims ears The
Corean is not TO be moved by love or by hate
His pleasure in life is to go with his pipe to hill
top and there to sit all day in an unbroken silence
The Emperor OF Corea has exchanged his fealt,,
to China for a complicated slavery to most OF the
hotelkeepers in the remotcr East Ne is Cbsa5aS
almost every European power and recruited from
every possible rank of life. He has further taste
OF Western blessings IN the religious massacres that
from time To time threaten his security nv
sanguinary CONFUSION between Catholic ana PROT
estant converts with their pastors The soveTp-
ment as IL now stands is pure despotism tenn
pered by aoJect poverty, ana by many Western
notions translated into the vernacuIar from his
maiestys Western advisers. In the domain Of
finance the waste is phenomenal and bribery on
the widest scale governs the Emperor's ministers
still barbarcus. Literature and art can never be
said 20 have existed in any developed forms-unless
make an exception In favor of the exquisite and
delicate white porcelain that is Quarred OCCASION