Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-01-29
80 AmERIcAR lMaEARoNI +
Spaghetti Made in United States and
Shipped to italy for Sale.

From the New Ypek Tribute.
1t will be q severe stab to the pride of
fta!yv to- ieslrn tina. the Americans are now
manufacturing macaroni. and are actually
sending some abroad. Factories for the
making of macaroni are running In Phlla-
derphia. and the owners are steadily en-
croacIing on the business of the importers
until 1t seems only question OF time Wheh
the macaroni used in this country Will be
made entirely of American wheat, in Amer
lean factories by American workmen IL
is all a question of wheat. AT one time
it was thought impossible to make good
maearoni from any wheat other than that
grown at Odessa and Taraneg, but now
Italy and Genoa haxe to share the prQhts
OF the business with the macaroni makers
OF Alarssil le.- in France. With America
cutting into the race for wealth by the
n araconi, route, the snational industry of
Italy will be still further eneroached upon.
The process of notwithstanding macaroni
in the Quaker city is the same that in
Europe. Only the hard wheat, which con-
tains a large percentage of gluten, is used.
The wheat is first ground into coarse
meal, from which, the bran is removed.
Great care has TO be exercised during the
grinding to keep; the temperature of the
room at the right point, both heat and hui
nudity being employed to insure the result
being satisfactory. The substance formed
by the grinding process, sailed semola, is
then worked up into dough with water,
and for macaroni and vermicell is forced
through gauges, with or without mandrelS,
as in wire and pipe drawing; or If pastes
are required. It is rolled out in very thin
sheets. from which are stamped out the
various forms of stars, rings, etc. There
is little difference between macareni and
the fine, threadlike vermicelli and the inf
mite variety of curious and elegant little
forms which, under the name of italian
pasteS are used for soups
Macaroni cannot be made every day in
the year, or month. or week. 1t must be
dry day. or the substance from which it
is made will not bind properly. Good maca-
roni breaks with a brittle sound like
glass. When boiled it sweils with
an even swell and does net come
apart. The inferior kind will often break
of it's own weight. and will burst in the
boiling A visit to macaroni factory is
of interest as disclosing an industry entirely
novel to American eyes. The rooms through
which the factory proper is reached are
hung from floors to- ceiling with festoons of
the macaronf drying 1t is everywhere,
strung over parallel poles. hanging from
every place on the wall where peg can be
to be brushed aside to allow the visitor
to pass through, and frequently strung out
to dry on the roof and il the yard for want
of room elsewhere.
The process of it's manufacture is worth
watching. In a huge bowl in the center
of the room. a bowl large enough for half
dozen men to coil up in, the dough is
placed, big stone coming down on this
anu HattehlHS II TO the desired consistency,
when it Is cut into strips like pieerust,
doubled over. and the big stone brushes
1t again until the proper elasticity is pro-
duced. Then it is turned into the gauges
and forced through the holes in the bottom,
piungers eomingxiahwn on it during the pro-
cess. and so giving It the hollow form ia
nailiar to lovers of the deiicacy. 1t reaches
its final stage, ready for the drying. in the
form of hairpin, and in this shape is
hung up. If it's good macaroni it will
not break while drying. but will hang in
the hairpin forml Suspended by the bent part
until II IS dry
All varieties 'of naearoni are made in the
same way, and. whether it is sold as ver-
micelli. spaghetti or just plain macaroni.
1t is manufactured from the same wheat.
deprived of its starchiness and allowed to
retain only its giutfnous properties. In this
form 1t has been called zone of the seven
delicacies of the world and In the esti-
nation OF the Italians at least. doubtless
deserves that description