Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-01
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.

Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
PARIS. September II, 1904.
The lamentations of jeremiah were mild
compared to the walls of woe and outbursts
of indignation heard here in Paris from
visiting American dressmakers w en- they
became aware of the attitude assumed to-
ward them by their Partisan confreres This
year the best couturieres refused to show
their models until after the list of Septem-
Der. BY this protective measure they nope
to break up the sartOrial plagiarism when
they contend has worked such havoc IN
their business. These artists very plausibiy
explain that before patron really has
chance to wear a toilet stamped with their
exclusive ideas some enterprising American
couturere has appeared within the sacred
precincts. seen the precious productions ana
transmitted the ideas in an almost occult
fashion to his partner across the water
with the result that the models make their
appearance simultaneously.
Even at this date when the sartorial
game law has expired, the directors OF lhe
leading dressmakng establishments take d
good look at visitors before showing them
the latest creations Ihey natuIaIy na ,
a dread of the small maker of chlffons WHO
walks around the show room picking up
ideas and departs unceremonlousiy Without
giving an order. Well, these Par.s san cou
turieres certainly have cause io' coi,i
nIaint and it's pity they cannot copyright
tbair costumes Imitation may be the SIN
cerest fiattery but its credit is not good
We are face to face with autumn: IL III
the air and in the styles one sees wherever
the smart set are gathered together these
DAYS The welcome crispness in the at
mosphere reminds us that the day is not
40 very far distant when furs Will be a
necessary luxury. The furr1ers are giVlns
,s the most stunning things this season
with fancy effects in skins taking hlsh
rank The decision of La Mode in this re-
spect is most determined, and the old plant
about painting the lily VIII nave no eHecl
on the smart purchaser.
The Louis Styles.
The Louis XIV and Louis XVI fur jack
cts will have a great vogue and are TO De
made I'D in all suitable furs. The embroi-
dered vest will play a prominent part on
these little coats. In the palmer garments
the basuued coats will be most popular, but
the woman of frugal mind who owns last
years fur blouse and bolero need have no
fear of being dubbed de mode should she
again appear in these becoming garments.
Last winter there was perfect craze for
coats made from the skin of that humble
little turnover, the mole. Fashion de-
serted also en masSe its former favOriteS-
broadtail and caracal-for this perishable
moleskin and a half dozen not a all good
initial tons Now tickle fashions favor has
returned to fiat black furs and the latest
addition to the ranks is the skin of the
black pony. If all these useful animals
were to fall victims of woman's whims the
supply would not half meet the demand,
and a dyed pelt of this character will sup
ply the deficiency. which at the same time
will be effective and inexpensive substi-
tute for broadtail and c9racal.
Our tastes for furs has become so dOmes-
tic that the humble occupant of the farm
yard may reasonably expect a prouder fate
than TO be immortalized after death in
bookbindings. gloves and boots. A recruit
to fashions army from the farm is a stun
ming trimming which has caught on with
the fashionable fuTTier and is made from
nothing less than the skin of the young
calf This trimming is called yetta. and
the beautiful creamy white and delicate Int
of fawn combined in this skin makes ii
worthy of this aristocratic euphonism. l
am really surprised that the variety of
markings and exquisite colorings of the
rier long. A pleasant feature about
wearing this trimming is that we may be
up to date in one instance without causing
more slaughter than is dema nded by our
taste for veal.
Kolinsky for Sable.
Another fur which has promising future
is dyed kolinsky, better known as red sa-
BILE. This is a fur that never appealed to
me, the coloring being rather harsh and
crude. Entire coats are to be made of kol-
insky. and it is also used as q supplement
ming seen the other day consisted of a
number of perfectly matched squirrels
heads sewed in strip. This adornment