Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-07-23
HOW TO MAKE ICES
Plenty Iceland a Good Freezer
to Start With.
UNLIMITED
THE ORIGINATOR OF ICE CREAM
WAS A FRENCH CHEF.
Way Back in 1774 He Delighted
His Ducal Patrons
With It.

Written for The Evening Star.
Some one has said, lice cream was not
invented 1t was developed" This delicious
dainty, however, is claimed to be direct
descendant of the sherbets of the orient
the secret of its manufacture being brought
from the east by returning travellers Of long
ago.
Philosophers for centuries knew that by
melting snow with salt congelation took
place in any circumjacent liquid, but 1t
never occurred to them to this knowl-
edge in connection with edibles. The honor
Of originating ice cream was reserved for
an humble French chef in the employ of
the Due de Chartres who in 1774 made for
his employer a snowike dessert which was
father to our modern ice" Just think of
the tons of ice cream that have been de-
voured by the devoted public without
grateful thought of this unknown benefac-
tor! Time was when ices in any form
spelled extravaganza and were only to be
purchased at high prices from a confec-
toner or made at home by an unusually
experienced cook; consequently no one
dreamed of having ice cream, sherbets ana
ice buildings, except at parties or wedding
receptions And even in these enlightened
days guest at a recent modest dinner was
heard to remark to friend after the func-
ton: My dear, Mrs. w. is most extrav-
agant woman. She actually had sherpets
at dinner in that small house and keeps
only a general housemaid. or course she
continued 'she paid an awful price Tor
them, and l have no patience with such os-
tentation." The truth was the weather
was hot, and the little entertainment had
been much enjoyed by the critical guest,
Tod
ashamed had she known that the ices were
all made by the "extravagant' hostess her
self.
In summer nowadays, even in the modest
establishments, ices frequently constitute
part of the daily menu, and they are easily
made by any one of moderate intelligence.
Machinery Necessary.
A freezing machine and dice are, OF
course, necessary, and when these have
been procured the rest is easy. There
are so many good freezers on the mar
ket at comparatively low prices that the
selection depends merely upon what the
housewife can afford to spend. Explicit
directions as to their manipulation come
with each freezer and these must De rlslu-
" followed if success is to be achieved.
The smart chef who evolves the most eX-
uuisite cream creations is aided in his eff
forts by all ice cave, but these AFFAIRS are
decided luxuries which the average nome
cannot afford and probably would not need.
The varieties Of creams and ices are al
most unlimited, but the foundation for the
best kind made in this country is as toll
lows: Scald one quart of cream ana aus,
solve in it one cupful of sugar. Nnen coid
add one tablespoonful of vanilla. ms Is
a good working basis. Some cooks 90 not
cook the cream, but the Scalding obviateS
all danger of the liquid curdling When
scalding the cream put it in double boiler,
or to set a pail in kettle of hot water is
at hand. The scalding is completed when
little bubbles appear around the edge OF
the cream. When cream Is not plentiful
an excellent substitute will be found In
four parts of double cream mixed with one
part of milk in which is put little liquid
rennet or cornstarch as thickening
Fruit Creams.
Fruit cream is made by adding when
the cream is half frozen any kind of ber-
ries or larger fruit. The fruit should be
pressed through sieve and sweetened
with sugar the quantity depending upon
the acidity of the fruit or with sirup
made as follows:
Put a pound of loaf sugar into quart
of water skim it well and reduce by rapid
boiling to one pint; then strain and bottle.
If the berries are not well favored little
lemon Juice is great improvement
In Europe Neapolitan Ice cream is gen
orally served. This is almost Identical
with what in America we call frozen GUS
tard The custard is made by allowing the
yolks Of eight eggs and four ounces Of
sugar to one pint of cream. Beat the eggs
to a light froth, add the sugar, then whip
up again and mix both with the cream in
a double boiler. Stir and cook the custard
until it slightly clings to the spoon, then
add the favoring and the fruit pulp If you
wish 1t. 1t should be borne in mind that
the cuStard must always be quite cold be-
fore 1t is placed in the freezer or 1t will
mi Tod tYa n n
being velvety and soft. Besides 1t will
freeze more quickly If cold. If the ice
cream Is desired particularly rich whipped
cream may be added after 1t is partially
frozen.
Ice Puddings.
Ice puddings which are so much liked,
are simply cream custards more or less
rich mixed with preserved fruit or pistachio
nuts favored with liquors, packed in
mold and frozen. When fruit Is mixed in
the cream it takes longer to freeze, and
another thing to bear in mind is that frozen
things expand to nearly third more than
their original bulk, and allowance must be
made accordingly
Water ices are much simpler to make
than creams, and are composed almost en-
tirey Of sugar or strip and fruit juices.
Whatever the fruit used 1t is pulped
through a sieve and six or eight ounces OF
sugar are added for every pint of pulp,
according to the natural sweetness Of the
fruit. Then allow one pint Of water to
each pint Of sweetened pulp. Boil, strain.
cool and freeze For water ices 1t Is de-
sirable to use the strip made from the
formula heretofore given rather than the
plain sugar
Punches are made by adding liquors to
the water ices after they are frozen. Par
fait, mousse and BISCUIT glaces are rather
troublesome for the housewife to prepare,
as the necessary conveniences for their
doll a a RI 70 t1p a OF
home.
Frozen Fruits.
Frozen cherries and peaches are deli
cious. For the former remove the stones
from one pound of fine ripe cherries, taking
care to save the juice that comes from
them. Put the cherries in a saucepan.