New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1904-07-25


all our endeavors to creep within riIe shot; and
We returned after dark empty handed ana tired
spring OF the year. especially when they first
Netl Pass is well known TO be one OF The easiest
70 overcome. having an autEEE5 u oaiS sIHaesn
erably higher than the loftest peak IN europe Is
OF a lower elevation than the Chor-HOtI hard by,
or many or the great passes LurtIer away Never
theIess. We had hard struggle TO gam the sum
snow. slipping and tumbling at every step. and
compelled to mat as a a Ig OWNS S 20
the crest of the pass and obtained d hrst look at
ment stealing over me at that dreary view. 1
thought had never seen anything more desolate
or sterile in my life. Perhaps a dark, gloomy day
made the outlook appear at its worst waste of
snow. lay below US. stretching far away, till
chain of snow clad mountains shut out the dis
around. nor SOUND EXCEPT that of the bitter north
Our guide had expected a guard of Tartars.
top Of the PASS. where they generally await and
to stop all lad fEa be TO
had expected AT any rate. we determined TO
appearance a "naIaver,' to settle our future
movements would, we thought be far better held
We found the descent on the northern side even
worse than what had already gone through.
but, after many slip and tumble. We at length
spot Chosen for the purpose Was we'll Sheltered
from the keen blast. with water close at hand:
pitching the tents fires were soon lighted, and
cup OF not Tea IN q measure restored the ClrCuld-
uon 10 our half frozen bodies. We congratulated
ourselves s. on the good start we had made, and
altogether the Troublesome H6onWab p1ard bav
ing already given them the slip; but
quickly undeceived Our tracks in the snow and
us, Gathering of hoofs on the mountain Side
made US look up, and we saw party of ten
or twelve Hoonyahs. mounted on ponies coming
down on US; and by the way they dashed their
they not in the best of humor Then ensued
an angry alteration between our guide and these
about-namely, that We had dared to enter their
country without first obtaining permission. Gradu-
voices moderated Dhun Singh accustomed to the
excellent dlpomatist took things very quietly and
presently came to tell that he had succeeded in
making an agreement with our troublesome Wis
Itors subject to the approval of the chief officer
ON OF the Glstrhlct by which we were permitted to
traNel ana hunt for a few weeks in certain di-
rectlon, but only limited extent of coun-
would be sent to accompany us. sbortly u after gi-
ward we were pleased to see the Hoonyahs walk
miserable looking steeds and quickly disappear in
n In1 ia an Inc following morning our escort
men, dressed in the ordinary way of the country
no covering to the head. long sheepskin coat
with girdle or belt round the waist TO below
tae Knees. ana nigh cloth boots kept up with
that these men had been sent to dog our steps ana
control Of an official called the tumpan with whom
we later had an Interview. They evidently had re-
and to render US no assistance whatever. They
ar% G kept aio3r from us. picketng their ponies
from our bivouac We noticed then, ronst aTiy
coming and going evidently keeping their enIoyy
ton we were taking. - '
All this espionage and putting every possibIe dir
hculty In our way to hinder our movements was
most uncaled Tor and unreasonable for these
opened sufficiently to permit Of beasts of burden
freely entered British territ9ry W2oHpt S let @
dIaace' ana did a considerable trade at a good
exchange for -four. sugar and the like which they
down The oi I rle inha otants Of largo villages far
Lar naI -
W9uId nov believe. or obstinatey refused TO enter
tain the idea. that Englishmen came solely N bTnt
the Wild animals inhahiting their mo,int,trs o,5
Nalieys, hut declared that came 10 ''spv into
from them-a truly absurd idea fa .e9 10 ot take It
reD sterile country only habitahle for few
far moro likely reason for this hostile attitude
70 prevent Europeans from travoiIInrp M m I9rGe
ne pressure brought to hear the people hv their
e.Endeayor by every means in their power to keep
is going on in the world ~ "''"'
We were glad 10 strike camp and be or early the
IIlo"lng ing, morning steering In the direction OF a
pace called Iazang, whore. our guide Informed us
ammon. also burhe and other game Our oYlI
manner OF proceeding when on the move was To-
strike camp early pack the tents and baggage on
spot determined on for the next hall Cene SgI
speakng the men in charge OF our heavily laden
valleys which everywhere intersect the country
10 reach new camping ground in preference to
rough. dangerous ground.
ourselves. under the guidance OF our two Bhotia
shikarees took 10 the hills in search OF game
shutdown. Almost invariably we found cur tents
pitched on some greensward near to a stream OF
pure water. and most undoubtedly one OF the great
advantages 10 the traveller In that part of Tibet
water. on the other hand a scarcity Of fuel was
sometimes a difficulty II Is always well to keep
up a hre throughout the night when enCamped in
Wild country; but often could provide only
sufficient fuel for cooking purposes There are no
trees IN the part of Tibet l speaking of
can remember only one solitary tree worthy OF the
name 4 thicket OF scrub jungle grows in patches
nothing substantial to burn NV followers when
on the march broke OF dry sticks and pulled up
was the dried dung of yaks and cattle. our
rifles generally speaking. kept us well supplied
with fresh meat-the best or mutton from the wild
sheep Of the mountains. We shot also sundry blue
mares ana a species or redlegsed partridge called
chukoe, ana when the laTder was empty-then
and then only-we took a base advantage OF the
Moreover. the larger streams contained species Of
succeeded in capturing in considerable numbers by
the simple process Of sinking wicker basket in
thrashlng the stream down from above with sticks
o"WaTu Inc Inc mouth 3i inc Trap Nmch, on being
would often leave half dozen unfortunates Tapping
az me t @ e hS was , @ the worst
means for these little fish afforded welcome addi-
tion to our sometimes scanty fare. For vegetables
our cook knew where to find wild onions; he also
made US an excellent dish much resembling spin
ne ii from '''' 'eS S''0o'S p'''Ne' ir'" wild
There an ample field Of work for the botanist
In THIS part OF Tibet noticed many beautiful
wild flowers. some new TO me; also heaths and
grasses orchids, too are said to he common in
The geologist also would discover much interest
across and ammonites may be brought 10 light by
breaking certain round dark stones common ii. the
sonafi,nes stormy Inc coli tntaIsa ,itb 1
of snow every and again. Soon, however n
weather. The power Of the sun abott rn IiIi,y
TiDflh nv Gar..