Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-05-07
FOR JADEp TASTES
Dishes to Tempt When APP
petite is Poor
DELICATE Err EP ASTS
YOUNG FOWLS suPPLANT THE
HEAVIER MEATS.
Piquant Sauces How to Select and
Serve Pou1try-Capon Most Nour-
fishing Of Spring Fowl.

petite and system yearning for more deli
cate dishes and in many households meat is
supplanted by poultry. notably young
capons, spring chickens, ducklings and
goslings
Poultry contains less muscle making
qualities than meat does but it la suff1-
GENTLY stimulating for the ordinary indi-
vidual in the first languid days Of spring.
It should be selected with the utmost care,
as the slightest faint will destroy an appe-
lite already dull and languishing.
Capons, chickens. ducklings and goslings
should be selected principally with a view
to tenderness. For capons and chickens
make sure that the point of the breast bone
is tender. This should be pure cartilage
until the chicken is a year old If 1t shows
BONE the bird is over year old and not
fit for broiling, panning and other delicate
methods of preparing spring dishes The
flesh should be firm. and the feet and legs
should be smooth, showing no sign Of
scales.
A duckling Is judged by it's underbill,
which should be soft; the lower part of the
legs. which should be smooth and the web
bling, which should be soft and pliable. The
same rules apply to goslngs with the adj
ditional fact that a desirable gesling shows
the softest Of down its legs. And for
all poultry fair showing of fat on the
breast is essential. A scrawny bird lacks
flavor.
The capricious spring appetite also de-
mands dainty service. and the sauces, rel
ishes and vegetables which accompany the
course should be selected with discretion.
For spring chicken a moderately tart
jelly, such as crabapple or grape may be
served. Tart currant or sour wild grape
jelly goes with duck, and apple sauce with
little sweetening with goslings. For capons
epicures demand guava jelly, though for
the average American taste a highly spiced
sweet pickle. such as peaches or walnuts, is
q popular relish.
The housewife who respects her hus-
bands feelings in the presence of guests
does not pile her poultry l1elter-skelter on
the platter. but has a regular place for lay
ING the dlferent cuts. so that her husband
knows just where to find the piece preferred
by guest, without peerng anxiously into
the ped OF golden brown meat and crisp
furnishings. r
cook is this: The back occupies the center
of the platter, with the wings on either
side: Directly in front of the carver lie
the legs, neatly crossed, and between them
and the wings are the second joints The
breast is laid atop of the back. and If the
neck is served 1t is hidden in bed of pars-
ley, at the back Of the platter farthest from
the carver.
able for spring dinners, but any of the fol-
lowing receipts will prove appetizng and
reliable:
Chicken la Marengo,-select your broil-,
",
damp cloth and dry thoroughly Put four
tablespoonfuls Of olive Oil In the frying pan
Tor each chicken, then add three shabots.
Glove OF garlic, bay, leaf and a sprig each
OF parsley and thyme. Place over the fire,
and when the oil is smoking hot add the
chicken and fry slowly until nicely brown
ed and tender. Then remove the chicken
and stand over steam to keep hot while Won
ana other havorings, and into a tablespoon
Iui or the OIL stir heaping tablespoonful
OF nour and crutonne, stirring until smooth
ana brown. Add one and half cupfuls of
white stock and five mushrooms which have
been peeled and cut into thin slices. Stir
all together until smooth, then add the yoIk
OF an egg and season to taste with salt and
pepper Lastly, add a wineglass of white
wine, then return the chicken to the sauce
cover tightly and steam for ten minutes.
arrange nicely on platter, pour the sauce
over the chicken and serve with a border of
Irled bread cut in triangles.
Chickens Broiled la Maitre d'Hotel-
Inc chickens must be young and should
weisn from one to two pounds each. Split
ana natten them with a cleaver, then place
IN baking pan with the skin side down,
aust lightly with salt and pepper, dot gem
erousiy with bits of butter and put two
tapiespoonfuls of water in the pan for each
chicken. Steam for one-half hour. Blasting
every ten minutes, then remove from the
oven, place the chickens on a gridiron and
oroii over clear fire until nicely Drowned
pan add little lemon juice and a generous
supply OF chopped parsley. Arrange the
chlcken ON platter, pour the sauce over If
ana serve surrounded by fresh watercress
Smothered Chicken, Virginia STYLE
Slnse a broiling chicken and split 1t down
the PACK. Clean and wipe with a damp
towel, but do not place it in water Break
the breast bone with a potato masher and
place In baking pan with the skin side up.
spread the breast generously with butter,
using at least one-quarter of pound.
Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper and
put small cupful Of water in the nan
Cover tightly and COOK in a moderate oven
Tor haif an hour, basting frequently, then
remove the cover, turn the chicken, re-
cover and cook for thirty minutes longer
Place the chicken on hot platter, remove
the pan to the top of the fire and stir one
tablespoonful of flour into the liquor stir
ring until smooth and brown, when add
cupful of milk, and again stir until the
boiling point is reached. Season to taste.
Strain and pour over the chicken. Serve
smoking hot, garnish with fresh green
parsley.
Planned Chicken.-The chicken should be
small, not over a pound in weight, and
should be cleaned and split for broiling
Then break the breast bone and fatten with
a roliing pin. Place in a baking pan with
the skin side up, laying on each breast
Slice of fat bacon. Sprinkle very lightly
with salt and pepper, add little water,
cover the pan tightly and bake for one-half
hour. Remove the cover and cook until
brown, basting every few minutes. Then
remove the bacon. Arrange on a hot dish
and pour the liquor from the pan over the
chicken. Garnish with water cress or fresh
parsley.
Chicken a la Tartare.-Choose small
broiling chickens, split and clean them,
place in baking pan with skin side up
spread thickly with butter and season
lightly with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with
chopped parsley and onion, allowing
tablespoonful of each to one chicken. Cover
the pan and cook in quick oven for three
quarters of an hour. Remove from the
pan. brush over with beaten egg, cover
lightly with rolled and sifted breadcrumbs,
then broil until nicely Drowned and serve
with sauce tartare. This dish is admirable
for spring luncheons, with new potatoes
and peas. IS Mf
Roast Duckings-Duek must not
be stuffed, but must be cooked as simply
as possible to preserve the delicacy of fla
vor. Clean and prepare the same as chick
ems, then truss neatly and place in a bak-
ing pan with generous lump of butter in
each one. Put half cupful of water and
half cupful Of salt in the pan and bake
quickly for three-quarters of an hour. bast-
ing frequently. Serve with giblet sauce,
fresh peas and currapt jelly.