New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1904-01-03
A PORTO RICAN VILLAGE
Experiences 7cith Mattress an School
and Out.
Written for The Tribune by American Teacher In
Rico.

Twenty -four dollarsl From San Juan to Maui
nabo in that miserable looking rig. If you want
eighteen dollars for the job. good But twenty-tour
dollars! Caramba! hombre!"
had been sitting upright in my bed in OF
the San Juan hotels bargaining with coach driver
whom the waiter had ushered in while I still
asleep After the usual argument the man came
down my more than reasonable price and LEFT
me 10 prepare for my journey. had been assigned
to teach in the tiny pueblo OF Maunabo. in the
treme southeastern corner of the island. the
Caribbean Sea. The trip took day and a half
by coach and my destination of the most
isolated and forlorn places imaginable.
The next day started in the rckety coach.
drawn by two small Porto Rican ponies. The way
was partly over the military road. which led over
mountains covered with dense tropical verdure.
through valleys where tiny puehlos fourlshed or
did not flourish past groves of cocoanut, royal
palms and bananas and through coffee and sugar
cane plantations. Sometimes fording rivers. which.
after heavy rain. rise many feet in short time;
sometimes stopping to change ponies. IT was late
In the day when finally arrived at the town or
Guayama. where spent the night
The next morning We left the military road ana
were compelled to travel over a road that made
me feel as II I had been churned when about
noon l entered Maunabo. town of perhaps three
hundred people, two-thirds Spanish whites and the
other third negroes. originally slaves AS the
town boosted of hotel. l was compelled TO
hunt around for a place to spend the night. Mean
while the word went around that the maestro
Americana had arrived. and was the star figure
for tha rest of the day. Late in the afternoon
was installed in one of the tiny story buildings
where also lived one the native teachers. an
intelligent young fellow of my age. My room
was not especially inviting. containing one canvas
cot too short at one end. one wash basin. chair
l had lots of sympathy for. and about one square
foot TO around in. The window opened upon a
ward of chickens, and found out the next morn
ing at 3 o'clock that they were all ROSTERS
The first night a celebration was held in my honor.
While in college played In the mandolin club. and
: had taken nv instrument with me. Consequently,
the senior had invited his friends in to hear the
Americana" play his ''bandolna." The house was
crowded and a large audience of dirty and bare
footed men, women children and goats gathered
| in front
| Naturally the women were anxious to know about
J nv prospects in a matrimonial way. Was mar
! ried, "No?" Was I engaged? Nor Then
ossuredIv must marry In Porto Rico. After tell
| inc me Of several Americans who had married
senoritas a sehora complecenty assured me that
she would look for a "novia' tsweethearp for me.
| Thinking II was Joke. told her nothing could
nlease me better as did feel little lonely. What
| was nv CONSERVATION the next evening, upon my
! return home from horseback ride. TO ma the
| sehora chatting with two young women whom she
had evidently invited for my inspection After
| +ba ,ntroductton didn't know exactly what to do
hu. finally talked Spanish to them for an hour and
. half Az they showed no signs OF going then and
| =. 4, -. INV nadtimA went to bed, Leaving toe