The daily morning journal and courier., 1904-01-11

4dApdHudnOs Nnlli, Oec. 0s 4SUo. Returning from Crusoe's Island to Talcahuano, about midway down the coast of this long and narrow country. stretched ribbon-like along the south ern Pacific, find so much of novelty and interest here that the impulse is strong to stop for a time. Though the northern half of the republic is richer in minerals and large cities, the central and southern portions comprise nearly all the agricultural area, which will in sure permanent prosperity after the gold and silver and nitrate and guano of the deserts in the north are exhaust ed. In a scenical point of view, the south is certainly to be preferred, with it's lofty mountains, great rivers, green valleys and dark forests where dwell the yet unconquered Araucanians-the bravest Indians in South America. All the coal of Chili is found in the south (which sells from twenty-five to thirty dollars per ton, and all the timber; and though it has neither a Santiago nor a Valparaiso, the city of Conception is not great way behind, being reckoned third in size in the republic, while Val divia, Linaries, Coronel, Imperial and other growing towns are already of con- siderable importance. In short it's southern half is to Chili what the great west is to the United States, and is a comparati lively new possession, having been part of Patagonia until q recent period, when that territory was divided between Chili and the Argentine Re lpublic.
 The bay of Conception is about six miles long by four miles wide, and is by lall odds the best and safest for large vessels on the coast of Chili. The port Iof Talcahuano occupies it's southwest langle, with the villages of Pone, Liri- lguen and Tenco on the east, the island of Quiriguina at the entrance, and the Important city of Conception only twen- lty miles inland, reached by railway in a few moments. The name of this port, lby the way, is pronounced as if spelled Thal-cah-whan-oh. aceentuated oii the third syllable. Viewed from the deck lof steamer, the village presents a beautiful appearance; but, like other South American coast towns, 'tis dis ltance lends enchantment Its pictur- lNSRaO NAAAS SAA oPA4C lO4tilc d COILS SpiCQOu0 lmark toward which ships stear to an- lchorage, and wooden pier juts far out into the bay. There is large dock, an larsenal, seamens hospital, a signal lstation on a lookout hill; and at the western end of the village, close down to the sea, is a handsome railway sta ton, from which trains run both north land south, thus bringing the port into Idirect communication with the interior. lThere are government works in Concep- lcion where repairing to the machinery of vessels can be effected, and I am told that the yearly shipping in the bay av- lerages a thousand vessels About six lty years ago Talcahuano was entirely destroyed by an earthquake After the lfirst shaking up the inhabitants, fortu- lnately for themselves, fled en nlasse to the low hills behind the town: and from that vantage ground, with the earth trembling so violently beneath them that 1t was impossible to stand upright they beheld an awful sight. The ocean preceded 8 long distance, and then ad- vanced in three successive waves-each an unbrolSen wall of water thirty feet in
 
 chors and flashing some of them far in Hand; then the subsistence of the bill dlows swept houses from their founda- tions and bore away the ruins, together with fiocks and herds, leaving the town lsite desolate and empty, the citizens homeless and poverty-stricken. Talea- Ihuano has now a population of five thousand or so, and, like other Chilian lvillages, is mostly built of adobe, though there are a few brick and frame houses in the place, belonging to Ger Iman and English residents It's mar lrow, dusty streets are generally pave lmentless, and there is one plaza, where Tiff you share the native fondness fo1 that kind of amusenent-you may wan der about among peons, dogs, donkeys land f1eas, and behold frouzy women sit lting in their doorways strumming upon Iguitars. During the summer timet which is the winter of our latitude, you know), this port is a great resort fo1 whale ships, though they are now mucf less numerous than formerly; and tler the streets abound with drunken sailors who are sure to be found in some sort of disturbance. Here, as at Valparaiso notwithstanding the long pier, ships arc laden and unladen by means of launch es. The boatmen are a distinctive class lof citizens, who follow no other busi- ness from generation to generation. launch is rowed near the beach, ant then forced up on it stern foremost, as far as the depth of water will permit and then the men, naked, except for z tpiece of cloth about the loins and some. times a calico shirt, wade through the surf, carrying articles ashore, no mat. ter what their weight, from a box ot candles to a piano-case. Their muscu. lar frames become wonderfully devel. oped by this sort of exercise, and it is astonishing with what rapidity they perform the work.
 The country in the neighborhood ot lTaleahuano amply rewards cultivation l and some of the valleys back of Con. cepcion are said to be among the rich. est in the world. All kinds of fruits grains and vegetables are produced il abundance; beef, mutton, pork ant fowls are well fattened and cheap, anC fish can be netted in incredible quanti
 ties from the beach at flood tide.
 Speaking of the fisheries reminds mt of St. Peters day, which is made great fiesta in all the coast towns O
 Chilli. Peter was a fisherman, vol
 know, and this country has a grea
 many miles of sea shore while it's great