The San Francisco call., 1904-02-21

little below the elbow in a wide ruff
fie. This is lined with a ruff1e of chif-
fon and this in turn with a ruftie OF
lace, then more chiffon. and so on un-
til the sleeve is filled in. 1t falls
around the hand in one great cas-
cade.
Sleeves are made by putting the ma
terial below the elbow. Then comes
a great series of ruffles that fall right
down to the very wrist. These are
made of many kinds of lace, of tulle,
of chiffon and of other materials, un-
til the arms are exquisitely covered
Nothing prettier than this sleeve could
possibly be imagined.
Some of the Coming Skirts.
;. There. are skirts that are too hand
some to be ignored in the chronicles
of fashion, where skirts are to be
mentioned. A lovely skirt is one that
trails well upon the ground and is
trimmed with a deep, founce-like ar
rangement. The best skirts are not
flounced, but are cut so that the lower
part flares like a fiounce.
Again, the skirt is box plated half
way down with the box plaits inverted
and with the fullness all lying in these
plaits. Skirts of this kind should be
made very long to give that exquisite
feminine height that is so much de-
sired by both men and women.
A great deal is being done to make
woman, fair woman, seem tall. Not
only are skirts very long indeed. but
they are trimmed in such way as TO
seem still longer. The new skirts are
of four lengths, and it seems almost es-
sential that a woman should have at
least one skirt made in every one OF
the four different lengths.
The longest skirt is the prettiest, be-
cause the most graceful and the most
feminine. This skirt is fitted to the hips
and is tried on the wearer in pecu-
liar fashion. She is stood on thick
book, or upon a low footstool, and the
skirt is turned up just even with the
ground in front and at the sides. But
at the sides it begins to grow longer,
and in the back 1t is cut TO a very long
sweep. the longer the better. This is
the ideal dinner and reception length.
The next length is fitted while wo-
man stands upon a thin book. The
skirt is turned up even with the ground
and is gradually lengthens,G into a
train until 1t sweeps off at the back
into a very respectable length. This is
worn for calling, and for very nice
street wear. 1t is the skirt that Mrs.
Paget and other London women select
for doing the bazaars and shows Of the
season.
Then come two other skirts. the shop
ming skirt. which just touches, or rather
lust escapes, the ground; and the skirt
that is cut from one to two inches from
the ground, namely, the instep skirt
These four lengths make the skirts OF
the season.
The Graceful Foot FIounces.
How can manage to be stylish -
aueried a woman of her man dress
maker: "I am too short and then there
is something too severe about my
gowns"
AS she spoke she brought forth a
really lovely dinner creation in absinthe
green crepe de chine trimmed with to-
mato colored lace dyed to a brilliant
red. The gown was cut rounding in the
neck and was finished with a very deeD
and very scalloped collar of lace. This
fell over the bust, which was trimmed
with wide ruffies of crepe de chine. The
sleeves were masses of crepe de chine
ruffle and lace.
The skirt was one of those tucked
affairs, with all the tucks turned in at
the hips. The front was plain. Deep
rows of ruffles and shirring trimmed
the skirt. There were three Of these
and around the foot there was another
deep ruffle, with shirring at the head
and a fall of lace. The whole was
quite triumph in brilliant simplicity.
Yet it was not becoming.
The man dressmaker studied it a
minute in silence. Then bringing out
a lace fiounce, he said: Madam, let
me add this. You need a touch Of
French chic to that gown"
The lace flounce, which was mex
pensive, was lined with mousseline and
this lining was made heavier by a
fiounce of taffeta. The whole was set
upon the foot of the gown until it lay
upon the floor in one lovely cascade.
Its effect was instantaneous. 1t made
the wearer a great deal taller and it
also added to her elegance, giving her