The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1904-10-20

That Worn IN Other Farts oA tapea-
Costumes Of the Higher officials of
state-scenes in the Bazaars.
August is a month of contracts here.
Ii is a time when the good people Of
Lhasa rarely go out without umbrellas;
not of native or Chinese manufacture,
but dingy, out at elbows. unmistakable
English steel rib umbrellas. made for
the Indian market for four rupees.
Excepting matches these ugly things
are almost the only articles of Euro
pean manufacture which are to be
seen here. The men are dressed, exact
ly as in other parts of Tibet, in
heavy native cloth overgarment, dun in
color, and patched in texture, pouehed
over the waist line 20 form a pocket.
II they wear shoes at all they are
rough cloth boots soled with cowhide
and shapeIess. They wear anything
on the head, low turned up cap being
their usual choice. The lower orders
wear no ornaments, except, perhaps,
a single turquoise in the left ear. The
women's dress is indistinguishable from
the mems, except that it is pulled
much less over the girdle, and that it
never has the upper selvage of red and
green crosses stained on the cloth edge,
used by their husbands and brothers.
They do not wear the high halo-like
s'patug, of the province of Tsang, their
couture consisting of low fillet-
originally crimson and closely set with
turquoises and imitation coral-binding
down the hair, which is parted Madon-
na-like in the middle and then fiuffed
out into two wide bandeaux on either
side of the face. each bandeau being
neatly plated the shoulder and coiled
up again into the woman's back hair.
Even the poorest women have a tur-.
qouise set eharm-bo suspended from
the neck by a row of curious beads.
Those in front are either turquoise or
coral alternated with Jumps Of glass,
not unlike small brandy balls in size
and appearance. Behind they cease
altogether and the string alone is tied
up underneath the hair. The charm
box is Of curious and characteristic
shape, the workmanship on it often be-
ing of high class, though the designs
are conventionally limited to close set
rows or whorls of turquoise relieved by
few applique whorls of gold wire.
The earrings are almost invariably
heavy and large. There is a conven-
tional shape from which no deviation
is permitted. From a heavy central
turquoise other large pieces diverge,
set close edge to edge in a wheel-like
design. From this depends circular
or oval stone set with knobbed
spikes, and below an inverted fieur-de-
lys, all of the same materials, COM
pletes the huge ornament. So heavy is
that small hooks are necessary to keep
the weight from the ear itself. Rings
are not greatly worn, and when used
are generally trumpery things. All
that is now necessary to complete the
toilette is heavy smear of dark
crimson or sienna stain over the fore
head nose, and cheeks. In spite Of
this historical Disagreement many Of
the younger women are distinctly good
looking, and all. young and old alike,
have perfect teeth. The children are
either naked or dressed like miniature
grown-ups. The lams-or rather
trabas, for the former word has been
considerably misused by us during our
contact with Tibet-iress in dark red,
throwing a toga-like scarf over the
under dress. They shave their heads
and wear no ornaments.
The higher ocials of the state add yell
low to their dress in different degrees,
until the rank of Shape is reached, when
the entire robe is vivid orange-yellow
brocaded silk lined with blue. The hat.
is a Chinese cap Of yellow turned up
with black, and the coral or Chinese
button of the second class is worn. "A
second class dignitary will wear yell
low underdress and throw over 1t an.
ephod-like garment Of crimson-purple
which falls to the feet. The moment
that one reaches the second class the
variety of hats worn is most striking.
From a yellow wooden Britannia helmet,
worn with the plume sticking out be-
hind. to vanished and gilded wooden
pot with a wide circular brinl, there is
almost every conceivable form of head
gear used. An inverted fower-pot bear
ing a much larger fiower-pot the right
way up will suggest one form. Another
is nothing else than circular pleated
silk crimson lampshade with four-inch
variance of the same. High Welsh hats
Of yellow silk with cap of mainte-
nance turn-up at the bottom of black
or yellow; Nepalese close black leather
caps bound all round with plain silver
or gold, and holding in front flame
shaped ornament of the same metal
square nun-like hats lined with dirty
fur falling on the shoulders behind; the
Tongsa Penlop himself in a gray Jer-
nyn Street Homburg hat forced down
uncloven over his eyes--all these are
but examples of the endless variety one
sees here.
The trappings of the horses are COM
paratively simple even when they be-
long to the greatest men. A stiff wood
en- saddle bound with silver and often
with panels front and back is almost
hidden by the cushion and saddlecloth,
for the Tibetans ride high. On the
crupper and bride are often f1ligree
plates of brass and sometimes good
Chinese enamel. The stirrups are ne
necessarily heavy, though handsome
dragon design is often embodied in
them. There are, of course, no carts Of
any kind anywhere in Tibet. The par
allel and regular ruts in the high road
often suggest wheel tracks, but one has
rarely to travel two miles in any direc-
finn without coming across some nor-