The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-03-20

ter than the man of most any
other city. This is the verdict of
IGCTgNI the leading tailors here. The rea-
- son for this, they set out, is as
follows: They say the city has reached a
stage in it's career when il has ceased to be
a small town, and yet ii is not as large as
Chicago, S.. Louis, Philadelphia and other
places of that size. 1t has hit happy me-
dunn between the small city and the large
one, and the business and professional men
take more pride in their dress than they
Go in the metropolitan cities, for they are
more closely noticed here than there. Tail
ors say that where the indianapolis man
falls short in dressing is because he dis
likes to give up the money for good clothes.
and they are something that it takes money
to get. Although men can dress cheaper
and better now than ever before, 1t is said
by those who are in a position to know that
it is simply impossible to be well dressed
and dress cheaply. for in cheap clothing
there is neither the workmanship nor the
material that is used in making up the fine
goods This, the tailors say, is true not
only with the cloth that shows, but also
with the Innings and canvases used in the
coats.
All of the better dressed men by this
time have their new spring clothes ordered,
for the fad of coming out on Easter Sunday
with an entire new outfit of wearing ap-
parel is becoming more popular each year.
Men have had very little chance this win
ter on account of the extreme weather to
show off their clothes, for they had to dress
more for comfort than style, and it is as
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wearing heavy winter clothes that they are
ordering spring suits SO as to be able to
change as soon as the weather breaks.
1t is in the coat where mans attire
changes style the oftenest. 1t is in this
garment where the cutter gets his chance
to show his art, and he will certainly have
plenty of opportunities to do so this spring,
for the coats are of many kinds and shapes.
AS a whole, though, they will be changed
very little from what they were last fall
that is, they are still to be made with the
broad shoulders and to fit loosely from the
shoulders down. The antique vintage of
1890, the tailors say, has gone out. and no
coats will be made after that style unless
the customer specifies. The coats of
that year were made to hug the form, and
there have been several different varieties
of these coats each year. The military
coat that was worn year before last and
last year was simply a variation from the
old form-fitting coat, but it has gone en-
tireiy out, and none of them will be seen
on the streets worn by the betterdressed
men.
THE BUSINESS SUIT.
The suit in greatest demand and the one
which changes style more often than any
other Is the business suit. The sack suit,
single-breasted, is still the business suit in
most general favor. 1t is made to fasten
with either three or four buttons as the
wearer prefers. OF the two the four button
sack has the greatest number of admirers,
being we'll rounded at the corners, with an
outside breast pocket without fiaps-a re-
vival that has come to stay. The features
of the fit of all sack coats apply entirely
TO the collar and shoulders. The vests are
cut to fit snugiy, but the coat, like all sack
coats, is cut TO fit loosely. The garment is
draped from the shoulders in such way
that ii will be large and roomy without
looking baggy, and the result is the most
easy and comfortable coat imaginable, and
at the same time far handsomer garment
than the old style, requiring much more
skill on the part of the designers than was
the case when the coats were made to iii
closely The three-button sack differs but
little from the four-button, and with both
of these coats the wearer should have
trousers TO match. Only cutaway or
different materials.
There will be a novelty four-button sack
coat this spring that, while IL is altogether
a fad bids fair to be very popular. es-
pecially with college men and those of an
athletic build. The principal difference be-
tween this coat and the ordinary four-but-
ton sack is that this coat is made somewhat
shorter. The lower part of the front is cut
away and both OF the lower pockets are
vertical. The special feature in the fit and
style of this coat is that il is made COM
Portable about the breast. great care being
given to the collar and concave shoulders
rhis is a coat which shows off the form OF
a young man OF strong physique admirably
The straight-front sack coat will also
come in for its share of popularity this
spring. 1t will be on exactly :he same
principle as all of the sack coats, except
that the corners are square in front and
the front is perfectly straight. This coat
will not be popular with men who like
single-breasted coats, but there are many
men who want to wear il instead of a
doubie-breasted coat through the warmer
months. This style of coat looks much
more stylish when made either in black OF
blue fabrics. The one-button sack coat is
not classed as altogether a stylish gar
ment. but some men, especially those who
are inclined 10 be corpulent prefer IL &c
all others. 1t is cut away in front. that
the top button only shall button.
The double breasted coat will be worr
very extensively this spring and summer
and is made up in various styles Wher
modelled upon strictly graceful lines il IL
can have. in order To preserve its SHAPE
II should always be worn buttoned. Ii il
especially adapted TO men of moderat,
physique. tall or short. but should never
be worn by a stout or corpulent man. 1t /;
the only style of sack coat with which
striped trousers in dark gTays may b'
worn. A single-breasted vest should al
ways be worn with a double-breasted coat
Fabrics best adapted TO garments of thl!
design are the black and blue serges ane
unfinished worsteds.
THE DOUBLE-BREASTED COAT.
There will be more different styles il
double breasted coats this spring than eve
before They are like all of the new coats
in that the lapels form long roll. Mos
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