Lewiston evening teller. [volume] (Lewiston, Idaho) 1903-1911, 1904-10-08
NEW YORK FASHION LETTER
BY ESTELLE CLAlREMoNT
NEW YORK, Oct. s.-Millinery i

! NEW YORK, Oct. S.-Millinery ii
ever matter of interest to women, and
a new chapeau is almost invariably re-
garded with greater interest than ever
| a new frock. for the latter is more OF
necessity. The new hats have short
backs or none at ALL Some of them are
cut out in horseshoe shape at the back
One brown beaver shown by a smart
milliner has the wide four-inch brim
wired with brown silk-covered wires
and the wires are placed on top of the
orim and on the outside of the crown.
This brim is cut to the crown at both
sides near the back, and also several
times on the left side near the front,
and these sections are turned up, like
wide tabs against the crowns, with
their upper edges fiaring outward from
it. At the base of the brim SO turned
up there is a rolled fold of dull, orange
colored velvet, and the ends are twisted
into an odd, wide, fiat bow across the
back. Just above the left ear and fast
ened among the upturned tabs is Il
smooth ponpon, from which floats to
the rear a bird of paradise plume shad-
ing from brown to orange
Another hat Is made of white silk
plush in military shape, about six in
ches across by fourteen long, trimmed
with heavy military braidings in large
white silk cords.
An odd and small toque is entirely
in peacock-eye effects, the foundation
being velvet and the crown covered
with fine chenille embroideries making
the center of the peacock eyes. Folds
of green and blue velvet. embroidered
in smaller peacock eyes and laid in
folds. form the soft brim and loosely
plated.
There will, as ever be great variety
in hats, and she who wishes to astonish
with f1aring brim chapeau may be as
easily suited as another is with close
fitting toque.
The exaggeration crowns will be
avoided by women of taste. Some of
these are six inches high; the average
is three inches for the usual large hat.
The so-called small hats of the season
are what in other years would have
been dubbed large. The huge hats are
for carriage wear, and those women of
small income and no carriages who as
pire to be gowned and hated like the
very fashionable class should bear this
fact in mind. There is no reason why
a woman of moderate means, and to
whom even cab is luxury, should
not be tastefully and as fashionably
frocked as her richer sisters, although
in materials less expensive and less
elaborate made, and she may have but
one gown to fifty or more owned by
her Weather sisters.
As the season advances velvet be-
comes more and more conspicuous in
the best modelled frocks. The wonder
fully soft, pliable chiffon velvet, which
can be shirred and plated and draped
to perfection. is used in many of the
most attractive frocks. Next to the
velvet and velveteens the exquisite |
glossy, smooth faced cloths, like broad |
cloth. supple cloth and face cloth are
well to the fore. These materials are
trimmed with braid and fashioned into
smart-loking tailored street frocks. |
The skirts are generally plated and !
finished at the bottom, where they flare |
with braid of velveteen binding. The |
jackets are either three quarter length |
and tight-fiting, made with double |
breasted or single -breasted vest, or |
they are made in the basque coat style, |
an deliberately embroidered |
silk or kid vest. Sometimes the fronts
are cut rather long, in the form of two
tabs or two points, which necessitates
the basque portion starting trifie far
Their back. Then, again, the little bas-