Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-05-21
THE MANT|LLA GIRL
Soldier Boys Brought Back a
Spanish Fashion.
C0QUETRY AND GRACE
BOTH COMBINE IN THESE FILMY
HEAD COVERINGS.
When to Wear and the Various
Ways Most Becom-
ing.

Written for The Evening star.

Written for The Evening Star.
Uncle Sans Cuban and Philippine sol
diers are responsible for the Mantiila Girl
of 1904, although they may not be aware
of the fact Nevertheless, it was they who
first brought back the mantilla among their
gifts for sweethearts and sisters. OF
course, the latter tried on their new possess
sions. and In. their secret hearts regretted
the memorable law which relegated the
use of the mantilla to the dark-eyed beau
ties across the seas.
With characteristic alertness where the
interest of beauty is concerned, they all
recognized in this bewitching style of head
dress the Spanish maiden's keynote to at
Effectiveness Straightway, some one ar
gued. that, If Cuba and the Philippines be-
longed to America, why not the mantillas
also?
In due time the army officers wives and
tourists also returned with trophies from
the islands, and the mantilla began to be
worn at parties, receptions and the theater.
Meantime, the girls who were not so fortu-
nate as to be recipients of genuine man.
tfllas sought to supply the deficiency. This
resulted in the use of the finery and rare
old lace which had been handed down from
aud lang syne Nor would the original
owners be ashamed if they could see some
OF the charming mantillas which have
oCGi ldSIiofieo out their cnef1SheQ be-
longings. And so the mantilla girl of 1904
is. with us in all her fascinating glory
Some of her mantilla combinations are
beautiful, and varied effects are seen in
the arrangement Those who have real old
Spanish lace have no difficulty in produc-
ing the most fascinating mantillas imagin-
able. These are worn to suit the individual
taste. but are usually light and fluffy SO
as not to interfere with the arrangement
of the hair. A favorite way, however is
to fasten the point of lace on the middle of
the hair by crescent pin other orna
ment. The long stole ends reach to the
bottom of the gown in front. One end is
often pinned to the waist by a rich orna-
ment.
Soft Laces Used.
Some Of the laces employed for this pur-
pose are the soft chantiIly, point gauze,
point Venice, Irish crochet, Mechlin and
even Valenciennes. For the simpler mantil-
las point desprit chiffon, crepe de chine
and liberty silk are used for the founda-
tion Narrow Mechlin and ruching are much
used for edgfng. Applique laces. ribbon
flowers and fringes are popular for TRIM
mings.
An accordion-pleated liberty silk which
comes by the yard Is especially desirable
for mantillas. 1t Is about sixteen inches
wide and is shaded until it looks like a
rainbow. The richest colors seen are
purple, red, green. blue and pink. all of
which look like shimmering panne when
crinkled and pleated. If purple is the color
sensme the rainbow erect Is obtained i1ss by
gether. Joining by a half-inch tuck. Four
distinct colors are used. shading from pale
lavender to heliotrope. violet and richest
purple. Joined as they are by an invisible
tuck, the colors blend into one another and
harmonize exQusttely. ,eas $50
A mantilla recently seen made of this
rainbow silk was marvellous creation. 1t
was in the pastel shades, and hung in Ions
graceful folds to the bottom of the skirt
white ruching Of chiffon edged the entire
scarf. Nothing daintier could be imagined
than this fluffy. graceful mantilla, one end
of which was thrown over the left shoulder
and caught with a gunmetal feur de lis pin
set with cut steel.
Pretty Trimmings.
Another quality Of the accordion-plea ted
liberty is not shaded, but in one solid color
1t is tucked. and on the edge of each tuck
close together is a silver or gold cord.
When pieated the effect is charming A
pale blue mantilla made of this material
had an edge of white chiffon also. The silk
is purchased by the stretched yard.
Implicated rainbow chiffon, which, as the
name implies, is shaded, makes the daintiest
of head scarfs. A pink one, shading from
the faintest shell pink to rose pink, was
made like a hood and had frill of the same
material. The ties were short and fell only
to the waist line. A rosette of the chiffon
on top of the hood was caught in position
with green pin.
A homemade mantiila, which created
quite sensation on its first appearance,
had a foundation of cream liberty silk
with long stole ends. This was simply COW
cred with row upon row of white crepe
lisse ruching. A wider crepe lisse ruching
edged liberty silk ruff1e, which fell in fas-
cinating folds about the face and around
the stole ends. An all red one. worn with
a red crepe de chine gown. had an edge of
black velvet baby ribbon sewed on the red
chiffon frill.
1t is quite a fad among girls who can
WELD a paint brush gracefully to decorate