The Jersey City news., 1904-03-02

elaboration as the dinner toilette, never
theless certain amount Of what we may
call ''dressiness''- for want of better
terms Imperative.
Quite favored fashion for these little
luncheon frocks are the new silks which
are just about making their initial box
to society. The first thing that strikes
one is that they have quite little more
body and richness than have character
lied the silken gowns of late. The de-
signs, too, are distinctly different The
large patterns that sprawled their more
or less artistic fey across the goods are
their place has been very agreeably tax
en- by small, neat designs, which accord
well with the quaint styles that prevail.
Perhaps the prettiest of these new
silks are those which show a double
printing. In these the design, floral OF
otherwise, is bdurred and an overpat
tern of tiny hairline checks or broken
skeleton plaids is imposed. One such
has a wild rose design in pale blush
tints upon dull Dresden blue back
ground. and the overpattern is of
green. This is made up with the deep,
round yoke. which slips well down over
the curve of the shoulder; the sleeve
is inserted low on the arm, and the very
old fashioned looking skirt consists of
triple hounces, each one finished with
three deep tucks, measuring four or five
inches apiece. These are shirred on to
the foundation skirt of blue taffetas,
and examination reveals the fact that
the graceful sweep at the foot is due
to the clever interlining of haireloth in
serted in the hem beneath.
Hats and parasols, too, must fit in
well with the style of gown that they
accompany, and the new millinery espe-
cially prepared for those favorites of
fortune who take a run down South at
this time are more than prety-they are
bewitching. For the early morning wear
the tailored hats are considered the cor
rect thing, ana in these the Marquise
turban-which, be it explained, is a
cousin german to the continental shape
we have worn all winter-is easily a
first favorite. The simplicity of outline
which marks the morning gown is OBJ
served in these hats, and the fancy for
a suggestion of the military modes is
seen in the smart cockades of gold braid
and velvet ribbon, which are smartly
perched at the side.
With the dressier gowns of the after
noon, however, the fashionables have
discarded the hat and carry the latest
thing in parasols. This little fad gives
opportunity to display a pretty coiffure,
and since no one style of hair dressing is
strikingly pretty picture cannot be eff
fected. The parasols themselves make
an excellent background for prett face.
and when well selected, with due regard
to size and coloring, to pattern and dec
Grafton, they can be made just as effec-
tive a weapon in the armory of beauty
as is the traditional fan
For the dinner toilette, the smart girl
reserves the best effect in her wardrobe,
and in these the seasons fancies find
various expression. There are gowns
of lace, of silk, of satin, of chiffon and
of velvet; of the new chiffon cloths,
which in no wise belle their name, and
last, but by no means the least. come
the spangled frocks. These are in
temselves perhaps two and sometimes
three frocks. for in their present styles
no one would dream of posing the
spangled net-no matter what the color
of its paillettes-over a silk foundation
without at least one foundation frock
Of chiffon interposed. The cleverest of
eouturieres now have the chiffon under
froek sun-plaited and there are many
instances where the outer gown Of
pailletter net is posed over spangled
chiffon, the two spangles contrasting
strongly in shape, color and design,
this over the plisse chiffon or net, while
the indispensable foundation of silk or
satin is carefully fitted to the figure.
And the extravaganza of fashion does
not stop at that, for even with all the
glittering array of paillettes still more
elaboration is necessary, and hand
embroideries executed in ribbon, velvet,
chenille, silk, arrasene, or whatever will
best stand out bodily, are unhesitatingly
applied wherever they will harmonic
with the design. One such gown, which
will display itself from an opera box at
Hayanna-for down there they do not
consider the opera a social dissipation
during Lent-is spangled in a rich design
with mauve paillettes, the pattern ap-
pearing against a background of tiny gilt
sequins.
Plainly seen is the interlining of sun
plaited white chiffon. posed over A shot