The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1904-03-13

THROUGH some eccentricity of
fashion traditions, the spring
/ hat becomes prominent in
advance of the spring cos
tune. AS a matter of fact, the first
hat of the new season partakes some
what of the receding and the ap-
preaching modes. 1t is more or less
tentative, and is generally worn to
add a touch of freshness to a winter
costume before one appears in all
the glorious certainty of Easter fash
ions.
AS a general rule, early spring mil
hnery is tailor made and self-trimmed.
and rarely, if ever. are flowers en-
ployed in trimming. The year 1904
shows a marked change in this re-
spect. A number of the most inter
est1ng and elegant models are hand
somely trimmed in feathers and flow
ers, and are constructed of heavy
straws, fcelles and braids.
The latter is an innovation, and
most charming one, as braid lends
itself with wonderful pliancy to the
graceful, if fantastic, turns and
twists of the new shapes. Hats are
not bent into shape, but absolutely
moulded, and in some cases of ex-
elusive millinery, the mould is de-
stroyed as though it were work of
art.
For this reason. the homemade hat
is not advisable. as the deftest of fin
gers will find it impossible to imi-
tate the elegant vagaries of present
brins and crowns. But once cor
rect shape is assured, plenty of use
will be found for ones hoard of feath-
ers, wings and odds and ends of gayly
colored velvet. A woman has only
to study the best models and adapt
them to her materials and needs.
A novelty in toques is somewhat
pointed in shape, with deep, roll
ing brim as high as the broad crown
1t fits closely at the back and shades
the face with straight flare. The
hat is constructed of rich Florentine
braids, ivory tinted, with gleamings of
gold threads.
The rolling brim is effectively dec
Grated with wings of flaming pink
velvet on which are posed white ca
mellias The same effect is carried
out on the crown, while a black bird
perched at the side makes a piquant
touch of contrast.
It is, perhaps, unnecessary to sug
gest that the above color harmony,
which is designed for brunette who
wears her dark hair knotted low in
the neck, can be changed to delicate
shades of blue for blonde, or, in
deed, can be carried out in dark
browns or greens for a walking or
visiting toilette.
Another pretty hat in milk-white
braid, with gold motif, shows the
new spring turban, which is rather
broad from side to side, with a grace
full, narrow curved brim, and the
slight peak in front, which is in evil
dence in so many of the new models.
The brim is mounted by white and |
ionquil tinted ruching. Bands of ar
tistica1ly rumpled velvet are passed
around the CIOWu, IdSIcIllIlS Ill
somewhat quaint design, trife to the
right side, while long white and
jonquil tinted plume is carried from
the back, the deep jonquil shaded tip
resting on the hair at the left side
Ficelle straw, Of coarse weave,
which has a rope effect and is rope |
colored, is one of the popular early |
spring novelties, and is used both for
ordinary and dress wear. For in
stance, sailor shape, to be worn with
a walking suit, is trimmed with a
crush belt of scarlet leather; buckle
of oxidized silver is used as clasp;
and black wing at the side tones
down the vivid scarlet decorations.
In contrast to the above is a dressy
flare with narrow curled brims, with
an understanding of plaid silk braid,
shades of green predominating over
purple and crimson A band of tiny
emerald green ostrich tips stands up /