The Saint Paul globe., 1904-01-31

ST. LOUIS, Mo-. Jan. 30.-When the
wife OF blacksmith in Troy. N. Y, got
tired washing and ironing her husbands 8
shirts with collars attached, 1t started her
to thinking; and she finally picked up her
scissors and cut a paper pattern and then
the linen for collar That was over sew
enty-fiye years ago, and 1t was the first
separate collar ever made in the world.
This forgotten woman was the mother
OF invention that first conceived the idea
from which has sprung the great industry
that now provides this article Of neckwear
In artistic shapes for men and also man.
nish women. Today the use of machines
has supplanted hand labor In nearly ev-
cry department OF the industry. not only
in the factory, but also in the laundry
and these machines will be seen In opera
ton, turning out collars and cuffs ready
to wear. In the Manufactures Palace at
the Louisiana Purchase exposition.
The collar and cuff display Is to be one
of the many working exhibits in this
great building. and 1t will be quite inter-
esting to all visitors. While every school
boy In the land has linen collar, IL only
for his Sunday go to meeting shirt yet
comparatively few persons have seen col
lar and cuff machines. This Is owing to
the fact that the industry is still praeti-
cally concentrated at Troy, n. Y, and
the immediate vicinity. where it originated
over three quarters of a century ago.
Visitors Will see the entire process OF
collar and cuff manufacture, from the
linen cloth to the finished product. Group
ed near the machinery viii be fine show
case displays OF the numerous styles of
cuffs and collars.
fad of detachable collars, 1t was soon
looked upon as a great reform In men $
wear IN the little town OF Troy. Old Eben-
eZer Brown, who had retired from the
Mafhn diQt Init md Ua
time to saving dollars than souls, started
a small dry goods store and was the first
person to start collar factory. The man
ufacture Of collars soon became paying
business for Parson Brown and history
does not record that he ever returned to
the pulpit.
This Yankee witted parson, It seems,
was blessed with a large family of girls
God bless 'em-and at first they made all
the linen collars. the cloth being cut to
shape with scissors. hand-stltched, and
starched and ironed upon the kitchen ta-
ble Soon the increasing demand for
Browns 'store collars" became so great
that he was compelled to secure the serv-
ices OF large portion OF the wives and
daughters in the whole town. They Hooked
to his store. which was enlarged. where
the cloth was cut on a wooden pattern.
which was the fOrerunner OF the modern
cutting table. They then took the ready
material to their homes and made, wash
ed, starched and ironed the collars, and
the shrewd parson paid them IN mer-
chandise from his store ffe also knew
how to drive a good bargain. as well as
to preach sermon on the sin Of avarice,
for each collar worker had to sign an
agreement: In pay you buy my goods
at my prices"
At that time the collars were tied
around the neck OF the wearer with tape
string, and were known as string col
lars" 1t was too early for the necktie
to suppIant the string. These heavy, two
ply collars. staFched as stiff as a board,
TOD hxyI I,ofP OF nk-
led at the back OF the neck.
For long time other collar manufac-
turers initiated Parson Brown by making
collars as side line to some other busi-
ness, and 1t was not until 1843 that the
first separate business of collar and shirt
bosom manufacture was begun. Then the
Independent stock collarmaker appeared.
and another man added laundry to his