The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1904-02-06

the gilt monogram or crest, confined
to the paper alone. Envelopes match
the letter paper. but are severely plain
in order to allow the place of honor
for the seal. without which no self
respecting letter feels like being
dropped into the post.
One of the important topics for dis
cussion where dress is concerned is the
new figure we are expected to develop.
The tall, willowy. no hip, low bust
large waist figure is about to be re-
tired. Waists are to be drawn in at
least two inches, which will enlarge the
hips, and the line of the bust is to be
raised considera bly,. The newest cor
sets are much shorter in the hips and
higher in the bust than the old ones
have been.
Another cheerful piece of news is that
we are to wear skirts that lie on the
ground several inches, front and sides,
as well as back. One hand if not two,
VIII be needed to hold the skirt up in
front, incidentally displaying glimpses
of exquisite lingerie" as one enthu-
siastic fashion authority expressed it.
Doesn't 1t sound alluring? Imagine
crowd Of shoppers trying to hold their
skirts up as we'll as down, at the same
time hanging on to their hatsl How
ever, we are saved by the announce
ment that the short skirt for walking
Will be allowable for the present, at
least Only. those who apply the word
smart to whatever strikes them as
modish, call walking skirts trotters.
The etymology of this extraordinary
word is probably trottoir.
In spite of all the prophecies that
this coming season would behold the
shelving of the old standby foulard,
here it is again among the new spring
silks, and every one except the dress
makers is delighted to see it. Dress
makers complain that there is no profit
in making up foulardS-they are too
simple. But from the others point of
view that is hardly an objection.
The new pongees and standings will
charm color lovers with their soft pas
tel tones. They will be the dressy silks
of the year. while the simpler gowns
will be made of foulards, louisines,
surahs, and other soft silks. Prettiest
of all in many eyes, will be the silver
and gun metal pin checked louisines
Stitched with black they will make
charming walking gowns.
Taffeta silk as a lining is going out
entirely and is replaced by the soft,
noiseless gauzelike silks that rarely cut
and give gown more of clinging eff
feet. Even for underskirts taffetas are
being supplanted by the soft satins
richly trimmed with lace.
Something really new in wash waists
is always hailed with acclamations, and
it is hardly possible that anything more
exquisite will be seen this year than
some recent impOrtations from Japan
seen at a private view of beautiful
things a day or two ago. Some of the
waists and the materials from which
they were evolved will be shown next
week. OF the fabrics two are compare
lively new and have never been com
mon enough to be popular. Chinese
grass linen is a thin, sheer, irregularly
woven linen, with a silky finish. 1t is |
in the Canton district, |
and is sometimes spoken of as Canton |
linen. Quantities of it have been sent
to Japan lately. there to be drawn |
worked and embroidered in dress and |
waist patterns for the American and |
European market.
India linen is to be revived for lin
gerie waists. Not the stiff nainsook /
imitation called India linon, which, of
course, is all cotton, but the real linen +
very fine and soft, and looks cooler than
almost any other white goods. Some
embroidered waist patterns
are among recent importations.
The popularity of valenciennes lace
will be even greater this year than last. |
The real lace is not out of reach Of |
modest purses, and is so far superior
to the best imitation that it is a temp |
tation. AS real lace wears for years, |
and Valenciennes is never very long out
of fashion, one is not to be accused of
if she wears it.
A favorite trimming will be the open
cut work or old English embroidery, |
a SNOWY but elegant form of needle
work, popular in early Victorian days, |
before machine embroidery destroyed
the taste for simple things. Some very |
handsome linen gowns and gown pat
terms in china blue and old pink linen, |
with this embroidery are seen. |
The designs are all very simple-a mere
line of heavy white embroidery on the |
blue, with open work spaces coming |
into the pattern at intervals. 1t is as
effective as anything that has been
seen.
Little moss roses on a blue and white
Raye." This will be very charming for
a dressy summer gown for the girl who
looks her best on the porch, lawn or gar
den of a warm summer afternoon.
White figures. are cast upon on the
Iustrous navy blue ground of a new
weave of cotton called Satin Lisse." The !
same patterns can be seen in black
reason the mercerized materials or satin |
finished cottons have a higher lustre in |
navy blue or dark green or brown than
seems attainable when the body color is
black
Jacqueminot roses and little moss roses |
are printed on new French organizes in |