The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-03-11

Correspondence Of the indianapolis Journal.
NEW YORK, March s.-The finer blouses
of the season are dainty and elegant In the
extreme. When one looks at the display
and marks all their beauty and charm the
wonder grows afresh that their vogue Is
so persistently denied. If they be not worn
how is it that they are made and sold In
big numbers and at prices that put them
beyond the reach of the masses? If they be
not good style how is it that the most ex-
elusive dealers vie with one another in pro-
ducing new and lovely effects? The truth
is that they are and will continue to
be worn upon certain occasions, and with
all coat suits, for there is nothing else 10
take their place. The effort at three-piece
gowns never was a success. Almost all
materials fit for suits are overheavy for
waists Even when such is not the case
the leaders of fashion do not appear to like
the style. The odd blouse of fine, sheer
muslin, or of filmy, dainty silk, has
daintiness and freshness of its own that
is a perennial charm, and can be renewed
or freshened so readily as TO make 1t a
favorite difficult to displace, even while it
is true that elaborate waists worn for for
NAL occasions are out of date.
For spring, as for winter, the most ele-
CANT waists are of the lingerie order al
though lovely things shown in
China and other Oriental silks. One fea-
ture is the combination of embroidery with
lace, another of cream or the deeper cham
payne color with white, and third. which,
perhaps, should be put first, is the very
general and free use of the finest hand
work. Nothing else is so smart. Nothing
else is elegant. Nothing else gives such
an air of distinction. Executed by paid
needlewomen, it means big cost, but there
are numberless owners Of modest purses
who do the work themselves and are
enabled to be quite in the height of style
without undue expenditure The lace used
is of many and various sorts. but Valen-
ciennes takes a prominent place and al
ways can be relied on to launder or clean
satisfactorily. A novelty is frills, scantily
full and very small, used in groups con-
sisting of generous numbers. AS charming
a waist as any / have seen is of sheer white
batiste and is trimmed with these not a
quarter of an inch in width. The blouse is
simple in form, many of the better
sort, and is full at the belt where it
pouches over the wide draped belt of Liber-
ty ribbon The frills form a band some
eight inches wide above this belt and be-
low the yoke and others again the
sleeves, which are wide, but not exagger-
atedly So and are gathered into four-inch
cuffs of Valenciennes insertion and en-
broidery in ecru, which match the yoke
that extends over the shoulders and onto
the sleeves. giving the broad line demanded
by fashion. The embroidery and the
white lace make most effective contrast
and are charming with the sheer fine
batiste.
THE FAVORITE CoLoRS.
White and the natural color of batiste
and linen are the favorites of the time, but
the latter is very generally known as cham
payne in place of by the older. more famil-
lar term. Real champagne color is richer
in tone and quite different, as any discern
ing person can see at a glance. but it is
the color of the season, and all things pos
sible are so called, whether correctly or in
correctly. A most lovely waist, that truly
is of the shade, is made of chiffon, and is
shirred over tiny cords to give a bertha
effect that outlines yoke of lace held by
fine stitches and inset with points of en-
broidery in rich Oriental colors. The stitch
ing is in itself a study, and the deep tones
of the embroidered motifs combine with the
white lace and the lovely tone of the chiffon
to make a most satisfactory combination.
The sleeves are full, with cuffs that match
the yoke, and the belt is full one of white
silk nothing being more charming than
4
closed at the back. as are the greater num-
Der, and is lined with India silk yelled with
mousseline, not so much as a hint of bones
! or stiffness being found. Worn with a
suit of the same lovely shade il has just
the harmonizing touch necessary To good
style, while il is light of weight and dain-
tier by far than the fabric itself could be.
White waists are correct with all things
and very lovely they are. Lace net, chif-
ION and the thinnest of silks with the lovely
sheer lawns and batiste all used with
what is known as lingerie, or fine hand
tucking and stitching on all. Valenciennes
lace is having great vogue both as all-over
and I'm insertions and edgings AS | have al
| the simple blouse that closes at the back
Jokes and trimming making the differences.
! A charming modes is of the alI-over with a
! collar that forms a stole at the front and
epaulets over the shoulders, made entirely
of renaissance braid held by fagoting.
! The lace is laid over mousseine and Is lined
with China silk. out the lining is cut ex-
actly as is the lace and is guiltless Of even
I a single bone. To be sure the belt takes
the form of a wide draped girde which
is made over a boned foundation. and which
gives a satisfactory support, but otherwise
all is soft and dropping. Among the new
silks is an Oriental creation known as Kinu
/ which is soft and thin with a crepey surface
/ and makes up most charmingly. One model
/ is made of the natural undyed color, which
/ If between cream and ecru. and is trimmed
with bands of Bulgarian embroidery which
/ form tiny vest and make the collar and
/ cuffs. There is, of course. a singular fitness
] and rather close connection between the
/ Eastern silk and the Eastern embroidery
that means a special charm, but equally
J good color effects can be obtained with other
/ things. Not infrequently the desire Tor
/ novelty brings about the bizarre rather than
! the beautiful. When such Is the case the
result cannot fail to be bad. no matter from