The Indianapolis journal., 1904-04-17
When Women Openly Go Into
Trade King Edward Turns
His Back on Them.
MAY WORK IN SECRET
But if They Show Poverty by
Selling Things in Store They
Lose Social Caste.
DRESSMAKER LUCILLE
Her Real Name Is Lady Duff Cor
don-"Honorables" Who Cook
and Make BOnnets.

Special Correspondence OF the Journal
LONDON. April Much used 10 be
written about few English women Of title
who had Mortified aristocracy by going into
business. in imitation of the famous linen
shop opened in Bond street by the Countess
of Warwick. But in the last two or three
years-about the same length of time that
high gambling for bridge has been feature
of fashionable London cvenings-the num-
Der of women bearing distinguished old
English names who have gone into business
has become so great that society scarcely
notices it any more.
There has never been another year since
the South Sea Bubble burst that so many
peeresses. to say nothing Of women OF lesser
title, have been plunging in stocks one
dowager countess mother OF the Earl OF
Rosslyn. is in bankruptcy proceedings at
this moment on account OF unlucky specu-
lations, and half a dozen others could be
named who are known TO be hanging by
their eyelids on the edge OF failure, Stock
spectators by the dozen getting intro
duced into exclusive circles in exchange for
tips, and, on the other hand, several noted
hostesses-one i'm particular-are known To
keep afioat by aid of commissions from
promoters on sales of shares to their
friends. Owing partly TO the gambling craze
among fashionable women in London, part
ly to the general business depression here
and partly to the steady increase OF lavish
expenditure in the race for social distinc-
ton. there has been time in years when
so many London society women have been
hard up and ready 10 sacrifice tradition and
TO rub elbows with the common folk in
the daytime for the sake OF keeping above
them in the evening.
CUT OUT OF COURT.
According to all accounts. most of the
ultra-fashionable millinery shops in Bond
street and Regent street are owned. in part
at least, by women whose names appear
two or three times a week in the precious
society column of the Morning Post. An
American countess is said TO be a heavy
shareholder in of the largest dry goods
stores in London. and another titled per-
sonage draws the whole of her enormous
income from brewery.
There is one bitter, bitter penalty that has
to be paid by the aristocrat who goes in
openly for trade-one that 10 a woman
still trying 10 keep her place in society or
to wriggle into still better one means a
great deal. She is forbidden at court As
soon as she opens a shop the doors of his
Majestys drawing room are closed TO her.
The King and Queen, theoretically. turn
their backs upon her. and her name passes
forever from the Lord Chamberlain's books
"A
A titled woman may be doctor, writer
or teacher of bridge; she may sell motor
cars or puppy dogs on commissioners do
many of the greatest of titled ladies in
these days for the sake OF extra pocket
money; she may even make lamp shades
and bead necklaces 10 sell privately among
her friends and the host and hostess at
Buckingham Palace will stand ready TO re-
ceive her But let any trade be done boldly
IN place of business, or let the would-bs
eligible" marry a man in trade and
queenly and kingly recognition comes TO A
sudden termination-in theory.
But to this rule there are exceptions that
always have puzzled the regular attendants
at the drawing rooms. For instance Lady
Maple went TO court and her husband sold
bedsteads and pieces of tape at his shop i'm
Tottenham Court road. Lack of scrutiny
on the part of the lord chamberlain may
account for other and more notable over
sights. For instance. Mrs. Oswald Chap
man, who keeps a restaurant and does her
own cooking. has been seen at court since
she went into business; and yet when Lady
Duff Gordon wished TO go to court she was
refused because she has a dressmaking
business that is carried on under the name
of Lucille
THE HONORABLE BONNET SHOP.
The Hon. Mrs. Archer Turnour is one OF
the best known of those society women
whose enterprise has condemned them to
view Buckingham Palace only from the out
side i'm the future. Mrs Turnour's husba q
is the brother of the present Earl OF VIM
terton, and this earl has only one son.
who is very delicate. it is not at all impos-
sible that Mrs. Turnour's only son will some
day be the Earl of Winterton. The Turn
ours are a great Sussex family which has
its seat at Petworth and has provided the
nation with many notable admirals and
people of that sort Mrs. Turnour's sister
in-law, the Countess OF Winterton is sister
TO the high and mighty Duchess OF Buc-
cleuth At the present time the Hon. Mrs
n
bank, while his mother expends her taste on
the wants of customers who climb up 10 the
second floor of No % Bond street. where
she has blouse and bonnet shop. Beside
the brass plate announcing THE Hon Mrs
Turnour" and the goods she has for sale.
which Is placed AT the front entrance. there
is "a large showcase some eight feet high
lii up with electric light, which stands lit
orally on the street.
Mrs. Dugdale. of the Dugdales of North
Wales "A famous and exclusive old county
family, has lost her right To attend court
by preferring to take a cash interest in
dairy produce. for IL is she who supplies
Eton and other public schools with their
regular quotas of butter.
Lady Rachel Byng is another for she has
opened a bonnet shop IN South Motion
street. Mrs Charles Thyme. whose hus-
band Is cousin Of the Marquis OF Bath.
also places herself among the ''ineligibles''
because she makes and sells buttons. She
was not an ordinary factory for this. her
buttons being OF suitably aristocratic
sort, exquisite pieces OF embroidery worked
small fortune each. Mrs. Thyme was a
niece of James MacNei Whistler.
LUCILLE"
Lady Duff Gordon. the wife OF Sir Cosmo
Duff Gordon. the fifth baronet OF that
name. is one of the most conspicuous OF
titled tradeswomen. although she Is known
to the outside world only Lucille" the
dressmaker. She began her trading career
I'm a very small way. After dvorcing her
first husband. who was the secretary OF tho
Turf Club. and finding her income reduced
to s. a week. she not only felt compelled
to make her own gowns but sought 10 de-
sign and make some for her aristocratic
friends From doing every stitch herself
she advanced TO the point OF taking a
woman 10 help her at her private house
This led To the setting apart OF proper
workroom and as the business grew
this clever dressmaker took what used 10
be the Arts Club in Hanover square. ard
is now moving into imposing premises at
the other corner of Hanover square. IL
was after her arrival in Hanover square
that she married Sir Cosmo Dun Gordon.
who Is one or the best known fencers in