The daily morning journal and courier., 1904-01-30
MODERN ART JEWELRY.
DESIGN IS ALI IMPORTANT IN
 THE MAKING.

The Value of Piece of JeweIry Now
 Rsckoned by Workmanship as Much
 as by seonss-Jsweis subservient to
 Design.
 Some years ago when milady lifted the lid of her jewel box it was the gilt ter and glare of precious stones and metals that met her eye. and nothing more. If she cared only for glitter and glare she gloated over her possessions much as the Indian does over string oi glass beads, but if she had soul above buttons or mere glitter and an eye for the refined and artistic she felt that something was lacking in her jewelry to make it really appeal to her. It is quite another thing now-nous avons change tout cela-and however beauti- ful be the jewel casket it cannot be any too much so to be worthy of the exqui- site pieces of jeweIry it contains. In fact, it is like a miniature art gallery, where every object is veritable work of art. and is to be examined and studied with all the interest that would be given to painting or piece of sculp- ture
 This, of course, only applies to the best of the jewelry output, and it is by no means to be found in every jewelry shop, any more than it is in the jewel box of every woman who can afford to own it. But the appreciation and de- mand for artistic jewelry is growing rapidly.
 This general art tendency in jewelry is shown not only in the costly, but equally in the comparatively inexpen- sive pieces" said New York jeweler, who caters to a fashionable patronage Tt emphasizes, above all things, the importance of design. Where formerly the value of its precious stones deter mined that of a piece of jewelry, now it is largely reckoned by it's design. In fact piece may be quite costly without containing a single precious stone, fine carving, enamel or seni-precious stones being worked by the designer into a production which appeals to the artist eye more than would a coruscation of gems, in all this work there is shown a reaction from stereotyped conventional forms and a development of originality and imagination. It is no longer show, but good taste, that leads. Take for example this locket,'' and he held up an exquisite thing in rose gold, the surface strewn with sprays of delicate blossoms, the center of each holding a tiny dia- mond. ssThe old way was to stud the locket with jewels in some set, conventional form, whereas in this the diamonds are made subservient to the design, and the workmanship in the carving of the flowers is as perfect as is the design. Speaking of workmanship, here is a piece which proves that, though much of our inspiration in de- sign is obtained from France and the school of Lalique, yet when it comes to finish America forges ahead. This collar was made here and the reverse side is as carefully finished as the front. " The collar was composed wholly of diamonds in a platinum setting; the de- Ign was as delicate in it's beauty as tfrost work, being made up of graceful scrolls and floral sprays, wrough into a broad band. Especially charming for a young girl was a neckchain of gold, slender as a thread, the front forming a v-shaped lattice, having at each inter section of the chains a, pearl. Other similar chains had gold beads in place of the pearls.
 NO, don't care to wear jewelry, 7 declared young woman artist to a friend the other day; it isn't that don't like it, but can't afford to SCOUT Europe for some rare antique and sum- bursts, crowns, and most of the modern jewelry is simply odious and vulgar to me" When this same young person was shown some of the new artistic jewelry she was enraptured and all the more upon discovering that real art gems were to be had at moderate prices Various tints of gold are produced by different processes, one, of these lat terly introduced being q soft dull vel low, a revival of the old Greek. This is mostly used for classical designs. An oddly designed brooch shows a com bination of old rose and Greek finish, the design representing peacock and tree; another brooch having the Greek finish has a spreading tree in gold hung with fruit of tiny pearls. Clusters of seed pearls in imitation of punches of grapes make up a brooch in combina- tion with grape leaves of rose gold. A wreath of diamond studded leaves and pearl berries encircling a large pearl and exquisite cameo set in 8 wreath of < tiny leaves and blossoms form the de- signs of two beautiful pendants. With semi precious stones some very happy results are obtained, tourmaline, peridot chysophrase, coral and amethyst being favorites. Strings of chrysophrase strung on fine gold threads and caught with small pearls are made into long chains and bracelets, which give very effective touch to a costume in harmony with the bright green of the stone.
 Tn every article of jewelry this new spirit is manifest, from hatpins to cuff links, so that the woman of taste need have no discordant element in her slightest personal adornment in the line < of jewelry. Brooklyn Eagle.
 JAPAN,S DEMAND.