New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1904-09-04

wished them TO make UP a gown designs that
so, but nothing would he shown until August
10 and nothing delivered until September g. It is a
curious state of affairs and it will be interesting
see how many seasons 1t will endure.
NOTHING STARTLING IN NEW MODES
But at last models are ready, and one wonders at
the necessity for all this secrecy for the ideas
do not seem to be striking. Any who had In
diligently watched the trend of ideas during the
spring and summer had fair notion that skirts
were to be shorter and very full that the waist line
well defined and the shoulders broad These ideas
have appeared in taffea and aces ct Trouville this
putting them in cloth and velvet. But there is lot
or small details that are interesting.
The three-quarter length sleeve is evidently going
10 last into the winter In some cases 1t is supple
lower part OF the arm is to be covered only by the
glove sleeves are very large at the top and in
little If at al below the elbow. Skirts have the
most ce HL oe ar run at the waist but they are
bulk and they flare out well at the hem. where
they are In most cases stiffened.
@l4 t SUITS or any Goth street suits generally
SNOW the stitched yoke, or perhaps fitted godet
shaped founce: but tho idea is that tailored suits
shall be worn for only the most Informal occasions
'dressy" description
There is lot of velvet gowns trimmed with lines
OF fur and lRces IN the deep oohre tan collars.
The touch of white that has been in favor long
seems out of date now, and in some cases heavy
dyed to match the fabric of the costume The vel
vet gowns seem 70 be Of two kinds One idea copies
the lines OF the silk summer gowns very full skirts
deep hchu collars and high. puffed sleeves, and
these are to be worn with fur shoulder wraps
Other suits are of the long coat and skirt
rlety, with tho skirt not too full and often I'm
trimmed. while the coat Is on the lines of the
Directore. It should perhaps be added that what is
called English velvet handsome velveteen that
comes at most moderate price, IL used by
the high priced dressmakers. Fashions so feet
ing now that few women willing to pay the
price Of the all silk yelvets These veveteens will
skirt is made OF chiffon velvet, but for the
severe models. and especially for coats they answer
perfectly.
Taffeta will be worn all winter. evidently, and
often with velvet and fur wraps. With the big
sleeves in vogue IL is not strange that the short
cape garment should be to the fore again. The Ia
Vorite model is rather short over the shoulders and
falls in points Zone or two behind, with stole
fronts Another idea is short garment Of the dol
shape, with big rolls for sleeves short in the
back with perhaps long points in front, The three
quarter length garments are often made with the
There are many stamped and figured velvets
shown by the manufacturers but whether these
velvet with ornameutation of lace, braid ard en-
broidery to be tho most attractive expression
There are some heavy corded silks that should
make excellent winter calling gowns. They
the winter shades. A silk of this sort in warm
tabac shade is the material Of Of the prettest
models shown on tho Rue de Ia Palx. The skirt
hangs in full folds from the waist. and three
tucks each two inches deep. ornament It. the low
est tuck falling trife below the knees. Between
the tucks the silk Is laid in small knife pleats what
sometimes called pleated entredeux. put IN
wide band OF passementerie lace IN tan shade.
bordered with narrower entredeux put on in a
scalloped pattern heading narrow knife pleatings
The bodice Is pointed and close at the waist but
opens above the revers. which are faced with
brown braid. and the chenisette is OF a deep ecru
lace. trimmed with small gold buttons.
corning modes. whether the garment be long or
short. a comparatively simple afternoon street
is made with short bulcro that may be worn
closed, fastened with buttons and loops or opened