The Savannah morning news., 1904-05-01
Decorative Dangers
Confront DreSSmakers
BY HARRIET HAWLEY.

frock. 1t comes in all the plain colors
and can be combined with lace or chif-
fon decorations.
A pretty mode for this fabric Is illus
trated in a calling costume of cham
payne messaline, in which hand run
tucks, shirring and a novelty brad
showing champagne, pale blue and gold,
are combined.
The skirt has yoke of tucks run
ming around the hips, but cut by length
wise strips of the braid. The tucking
forms a point or V-shaped piece In TIE
front gore. and from this point, run
ming around the skirt, are eight or nine
rows of stirring, which gives the neces-
sary fullness to the garment. The skirt
has slight train, and is finished with
three inch wide tucks.
The entire blouse is laid in hand-run
tucks, except the under arm pieces,
and the front has g. design formed by
| bands of the braid, which also outlines
the arms eye and the collar. The
sleeves ara tucked from arms eye to
elbow, and from elbow to a narrow cuff
, at the wrist they fall in bishop puff
A pointed belt completes the gown.
An ecru messaline combined with
novelty silk braid Stimulating fagoting,
is another effective design.
A Stylish Skirt.
The skirt fits snugly and plainly at
the waist line, and then three inches
! lower is insert a circular yoke formed
of the novelty braid set between dou-
BILE shirrings of the material. From
| this yoke the skirt runs plain and
simple in the regulation seven cores
| to a deep flounce, which comes almost
| to the knees and which is the most
ornate feature of the costume.
The f1ounce follows exactly the cir
cular lines of the yoke above it, form
| ing immense half moons or semi
circles, pointing downward. This is
built of the shirred messaline, as de-
scribed above in the yoke, with the
! inset of novelty braid. In the dip
or center of each semi-circle is a
square of the novelty braid about three
inches in diameter, and from the low
er edge of the shirrings the f1ounce
falls full and free to the foot.
The blouse has deep shirred yoke
attached to a collar Of the novelty
| braid, and with square of the braid
| lined with a band of the braid which
follows the bust line straight over the
| upper part of the sleeve, so that the
arms eye line is entirly lost. Two
lines of shirring run below the braid,
from which point the blouse, inset
with three blocks of braid, is gather
| ed into a pointed belt of the braid,
of the braid, and over this falls a puff,
| formed of shirred silk, inset with
| braid.
Circular or Pointed Effects.
1t will be noted that all these de-
signs in shirring call for circular or
pointed effects. In no instance does
| the shirring run straight around the
body. The home dressmaker should
bear this fact in mind as one of the
saving graces-one of the best reme-
dies for "bunchiness." Still another
warning is against the combination of
! shirring and ruchings. Insets of lace
should go with the shirring.
Insets of lace and quantities of in
sertion are employed with such fab
RIGS as batiste and organdy; and here,
| too, the pointed or curved designs are
| employed.
A dainty organdy showing pale pink
rose pinheads has valenciennes inser-
ton running in four rows around the
skirt to outline the fiounce, and here
graceful, wave-like curves are used,
coming almost to a point in the front.
and rising in sweeping curves up
ward on the back of the skirt. The
same wave-like design is employed in
| the insertion of the blouse and the
| sleeves, while a curved yoke and col
| lar of solid insertion is Joined by shir-
|
the long-shoulder effect.
An Ecru Wolfe.
An ecru wolfe, figured in brown cres-
i cents, combines shirring and tucking.
| The skirt has a slightly shirred yoke,
and falls like an overskirt over a
| shaped flounce of the material. The
| bottom of the simulated overskirt is
cut in tabs, between which are elabor-
! ate insets of heavy ecru lace.
The blouse is a combination of eton
and bolero, tucked from the shoulders
| in groups of three and cut out in tabs
to match the skirt. These tabs fall
over a lingerie ruffie Of point d'esprit,
and there is square collar of the
| lace.
| The sleeves are cut in tabs at the
| elbow to fall over a half sleeve Of
| point d'esprit. The crush girdle is of
] soft brown silk to match the crescent
| in the fabric.