Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-06-25
new DRESS WRINKLES
In Chemisettes, fuckers and
Half Sleeves.
INVALUABLE A IDS
GOOD THINGS FOR HOME DRESS
MAKERS TO KNOW.
Triple Flounces Are on Many Sleeves
to Be Seen Now-Fluffy
Flufaes.

Among the graceful accessories for sum-
mer costumes which came in with the 1880
fashions, none have been more eagerly wei
coined than half-sleeves. chemisettes and
fuckers. But for the vogue of old-fashioned
names and styles, the latter would be called
detachable yokes. but the tucker is quainter
ana more appropriate to the sloping Shout
der lines and voluminous skirts.
By the use of fuckers and half-seeves,
the summer girl with limited wardrobe
can convert her party gown into. just the
right thing for garden party or porch tea.
A young girl who can boast as an heirloom
some exquisitely fine duchesse lace edging
has just completed such set for use with
an organdy frock The gown itself has
delicate rose pattern. The skirt is shirred
and the blouse has Dutch neck, outlined
with shirring. which runs down in three
rows on the puffed elbow sleeves. With a
sash of pale. soft pink ribbon. tied in but
terhy bows at intervals on the long ends.
this gown Is just the thing for an evening
hop.
For an afternoon function, its young
owner has evolved the tucker and half
sleeves of pure white organdy and the
duchesse lace. The half-sleeves are formed
of three graduated founces. each run in
three handworked tucks an eighth Of an
inch wide and edged with lace. The tucker
shirring on the blouse. each cording being
outlined by the lace. held loosely, but not
gathered too full. and the lace also finishes
the top of the soft, crush collar.
For linen dresses, the most suitable tuck
ers and half-sleeves are those made from
finely plated lawn edged with Valencien-
mes or oriental lace. Sometimes insertion is
also used above the hem, but the general
effect suggests that the dainty accessories
will tub beautifully.
Wolfe and Canvas.
For wolfe and canvas frocks nets of
every description are desirable for half
sleeves. They come in pure, white. cream
and ecru or natural color, with laces to
match. Finely tucked and accordion plait-
ed brussels, net or point d'esprit are most
popular and clean beautifully Both vaIen-
ciennes and fine torchon laces are used for
edging the net. Oriental lace Is pretty,
but does not always launder well. and the
heavier edges and gallOOns, such mech
lin, point de venise and point d alencon, are
employed If the half-sIeeves are to be worn
with summer fabrics Of heavier weight.
For the elaborate frock of summer silk
OF mousseline there is nothing more effect
i've than a tucker and half-sleeves Of re-
pousse lace. net top with graduated dots.
Plain or appiiqued chiffon is combined in
dancing dresses with sall-ovsr lace or net.
A charming dinner dress. to be worn
by a young matron, was Of lferre all-over.
sleeves. The under sleeves were puffs OF
chiffon, laid in tucks inch and half
deep, and the tucker was of shirred chiffon.
The shirrings ran up and down from the
deep yoke line to the top of the collar,
which gave the wearer remarkably sen-
der look and sioping shoulder line
AN exquisite gray wolfe afternoon gown
had half-sleeves and tucker of white chif-
fon overlaid with gray silk cluny, and a
gray crepe de chine showed a tucker of
Irish point ali-over and pointed half-sleeve
ruffles of the same lace.
Surplice Waists.
For surplice waists laid in folds a pretty
contrast is afforded by a chemisette or
vest of plain embroidery or lace, and a
tfght-ftting half-sleeve to match, the up
per sleeve being made in puff and edged
with fiounce. A surpIice waist shown in
champagne messaline had a chemisette and
half-sleeveS. plain and Smooth-fttting of
Spanish lace over chiffon.
The tucker and half sleeves must be fitted
as carefully as the blouse proper and the
junction of blouse and tucker must be
carefully concealed. When the blouse is
made from transparent material tucker
and sleeves must be basted in. Where the
outer blouse Is not transparent the tucker
may be made on an abbreviated waist pat
tern, which is cut off and hemmed Just be-
low the arms eye. This keeps the tucker
in place.
If tucker and half-sleeves are not fuIIed.
but are made of ttght-itting all-over lace
or embroidery, to be worn under an OPAQUE
material like linen and silk. it will pay to
make them a fine lawn waist lining
The blouse then slips down over them and
no hooks or hastings are necessary to keep
them in place. The 1904 styles are loose
and voluminous, but never sloppy or I'M
tidy.