The daily morning journal and courier., 1904-01-14
FOR JAPANESE EPICURES.
NEW YoRK,s DISTINCTIVE EAT
 ING HOUSES POPULAR.
Tables Decorated With Orchids in a Room Hung with Imperial Purple.

Room Hung with Imperial Purple.
 Among the many Japanese eating places In this city there are two which share in common the charm of individu- ality, although totally dissimilar in all other respects. One is swell restaur- ant on the West side, above Twenty third street, which is frequented by wealthy cultured natives of the land of the chrysanthemum and kimono. It takes up the parlor floor of a fine house. and is full of curios and treasures, each one of which represents some branch of the art, literature or religion of Japan.
 The floor is strewn with rich rugs; the walls are covered with landscapes and pictures of animated native life. From the ceiling to the floor hang rare tapes tries on which skillful fingers have wrought dropping clusters of purple wistaria tinted chrysanthemums and focks of birds on the wing.
 The most beautiful of these tapestries is said to be $50 years old. Cherry blossoms in the natural colors run riots over it, andat one side is a jinriksha worked out in black, and gold. The mantles are draped with gorgeous bro- cades wwhich once adorned the shrines of the gods, dragons on the stuffs and the eys of the lifelike monsters seem to glare at the intruder.
 Lacquered stands, inlaid with orna- ments of ivory, silver and mother of pearl stand in the corners, and on them are seen specimens of cloisonne work, exquisite little figures in carved ivory birds, insects and fishes in bronze. The royal purple of Japan, which no native may Haunt in his own country and go unpunished decorates one side of the wall, and near it are life size portraits of the proprietor of the restaurant and his wife, both in regulation evening costumes of American cut.
 The table decorations are delight to the fastidious eye. The linen is of the finest texture, immaculate and of choice design, and an immense bowl of orchids is used as a centerpice. The pale green tea of Japan, devoid of cream or sugar is served in marvellous eggshell cups, lace work porcelain, covered with glaze Cracked china and delicately painted plates are used at every meal, and even the lecquered tray on which the food is brought in has beauty and value pe- culiarly it's own.
 The Japanese do not care for meat, and grease is an abonination to them, but they are fond of fish, game, vege- tables and rice The dinner menu usu- ally consists of fish soup containing young sardines or whitebait; ting smoked trout, with. bay leaves; plain raw fish in thin slices or cut in fancy shapes, such as stars and butterflies, or served in vinegar with stewed vege- tables. Minced chicken, squab, pigeon pie and goose may follow and every known vegetable is pressed into the service. Sauces and liquid condiments particularly soy are poured over the food. and impart to ts fiavors strange to American palates. Sugared plums are favorite dessert, as are fruits and sweet crackers. White saki or rice wine is served to those who order it.
 An ordinary meal at this restaurant costs from $3 to $5, according to the number of dishes served, but the elite, who like the exclusiveness of the place do not grumble when their bill for a single dinner amounts to $25 per head. Sometimes Japanese gentleman will engage the whole restaurant for an ev- ening and will dine and wine a party of friends there. When the meal is over cards or chess are played, cigaretts are passed around, incense is burned, so that the true atmosphere of Japan may surrounded the merrymakers, and the vivacity of every one present is in marked contrast to the generally aecep- ted ideas about Oriental reserve and gloom. No flowing silk robes broad sashes, sandals and the inevitable fan of stage tradition are to be seen here, but above the unlovely full dress suits of the new world are the ivory tinted faces and inscrutable eyes of an old world race.
 The other distinctive eating place of the Japanese is boarding house in Wa ter street, kept by a quaint character, who has been so long in New York that he has forgotten his native name and has adopted the sobriquet of Papa George His patrons are principally sailors and sea cooks of his own nation ality. and he looks after their creature comforts for the modest sum of five dol- lars a eek,-New York Press.
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