The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-02-13
NEWEST ia CKETS AND SKIRTS
SHOW DRIFT OF SPRING STYLES
TIE Eon Jacket Be Popular EUa bit No One Fashion
IN Any Garment VIII PyeUaH

with a fun upper portion and full founce
joined thereto, so making really voluminous
folds at the feet. The front of the upper
portion is plain for narrow space. but
sides and back are shirred TO form yoke,
and the lower edge is finished with hem
and four tucks of graduated widths The
fiounce which promises to be a favorite
one Of the season, is gathered TO form
two-inch heading and is hemmed at its
lower edge with three wide tucks above.
The bOdices in both instances are in bolero
form, with deep drop Jokes that completely
cover the seams OF the sleeves II. IN a
season OF so much variety, and one thing
can fairly be said to be fixed it would be
the rule that demands such treatment We
see sleeves and Jokes cut in one, boleros
with extended shoulders that fall over the
sleeves, epaulets, long shoulders with
bands of trimming over the seams, but
almost never is the joining visible except
in some tailored suits which snow all seams.
Broad we must be at the shoulders as well
rs voluminous In the skirt, but happily
modern genius is bringing about some truly
charming and picturesque effects
MODEL IN WHITE.
To ingenuity there seems literally no
limit and the number and variety OF de-
signs shown, all OF which conform TO this
one general idea, is a constant source of
wonder and surprise. A most novel gown
of white cloth is somewhat more severe
than the thinner models, but shows a skirt
at once so good and so new that 1 cannot
pass it by. The front gore is quite plain,
but is finished at sides and lower edges
with bands OF white silk braid with which
are woven threads of gold. Between 1t and
the sides Is a very narrow panel and over
the edges of this both front and sides are
Tapped and held by tiny white silk buttons.
At the back is a triple box plat and there
is a triple yoke at the sides which termi-
mates under the edges of this plat in
graduated lengths. The front edges are
pointed and the sections lap one over the
IL f~ h. CHI flGf md
terminates beneath the outer edge of he
plat, the entire section terminates beneath
the second plait and the uppermost beneath
the third and last, the whole effect being
eminently desirable as we'll as odd With
the skirt is a blouse showing a yoke of
lace and full sleeves. the wide cuffs of
which are finished with deep falls of lace.
A second costume of white cloth is made
with jaunty little box Elton with wide
full sleeves and a skirt that Is a marvel OF
the tailor's art and at the same time goes
to show how varied are the methods of
combining fullness over the hips. In this
instance the skirt is cut in two circular
portions that are scanned at the front and
over the hips is laid in the tinieSt or tuckS
that are arranged to form curves, which
extend to the depth of an ample yoke.
The more serviceable costumes of every
day wear are somewhat more severe, but
also generous in variety. Among these
first showings / have seen Etons as plain
and simple as the original ones, coats that
are tight fitting and half length, jackets
with loose fronts and fitted backs and
others that suggest the Norfolk without be-
ing replicas thereof. The tightly-htted
coats are plain I'm the extreme, are many
scanned and strapped over each seam and
are made with nine-gored flare skirts to
match. For the early season they will be
seen in chevot, but mohair is promised
great vogue for warm weather, and have
seen some exceedingly chic suits made
thereof which were ordered for Palm
Beach, where summer is to be found even
now.
FOR TRAVELLING SUITS.
The jackets are fascinatingly smart and
show elongated shoulders, with moderately
full sleeves and applied collars, which often
are of contrasting material and match the
cuffs. For example, a brown cheviot has
collar and cuffs of white cloth banded with
narrow brown and white braid, the collar
being quite fiat and forming a square at the
front. The Norfolk models are ideally COM
Portable for travelling, shopping and the
| like, and are shown in the new mixed che
| viots that are delight in themselves. One
| that / noted specially is of the material in
| shades of tan with threads of pale green.
| The coat is half-itted with applied box
plaits extending to the shoulders, that give
! the Norfolk suggestion, and includes plain
sleeves. The belt is braid, in green, white
and tan, and a narrower width trims the
collar and cuffs. With ii is a box-plaited
| skirt, quite plain, that just clears the
| ground. Judging from these early signs,
1
| ceremonious occasions, but we are to have
/ a choice of long coat or short for morning
| and general wear Some exceedingly smart
| costumes of white mohair that are being
made in readiness for March in the South
| are quite plain as to coat, and show plain
| fiared skirts, much like the darker ones
! referred to above, On the other hand one
| sees Etons and blouses with short skirts,
as we'll as long, SO that individual taste and
| need must be the determining factor. Ma
| terials grow more enticing with each new
| showing. Apparently dots and flecked eff
| fects to be much used, but plain color
| can always be relied upon for the heavier
| fabrics. Liberty and foulard silks are many
| and charming, and there is a long list OF
| newer weaves that will make welcome add
| tions TO available summer gowns and
| waists. Pongee alone shows a variety that
| hardly seems possible, and there are many
| soft satins and crepes as well. In addition
| to the Shanghai pongee which is familiar
| to us ALL we now have a heavier sort known
| as Rajah, and the finer weaves dyed IN
| France to give US all the beauty of French
| colOring with the Oriental fabric Bareg,
| is here, and lovely. as IL always is anC
| wolfe takes so many variations as to be
| come, in fact number of different fabrics
| but in one and all the tendency to clingins
stuffs absolutely soft and pliabe is to b,
| noted. MAY MANTON.