The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-04-22

Correspondence of the Indianapolis Journal
NEW YORK, April 20.-That 1880 in
fiuences make the paramount ones of the
season is self-evident. Whichever way we
turn evidences of the fact are to be met,
and week by week fresh arrivals are to
be seen. Skirts grow fuller and more full.
Not content with gathers. shirrs and plaits
designers are using fiounces, frills and
ruches galore, and often one over the
other. Shoulders are broad to the extreme
and deep belts and girdles give the short
waist line. Latterly, also, all sorts of little
capes and fichu-like wraps have been
shown that are still further reminiscent
and replicas Of which can be found in any
gallery of old portraits. Rumor has it
that the next change is to be TO the d.
rectoire, and already Partisan designers are
sending out what might be called hints
thereof. But whether or not that be the
next period from which inspiration is to
come we are now initiating our grand
mothers and Observation-Disclosures, and have
need to study their grace as well as their
gowns if we hope to achieve success. For
the past decade at least the tendency has
been to tailored effects, to severity and to
the freedom of action that goes Herewith.
1t is something of a plunge from that
state into the present befrilled one and by
no means every woman has been able TO
take it gracefully or well. Such gowns as
those of to-day mean, or should mean.
essentially feminine grace and soft. Ian
guorous movement. When we meet girl,
such as 1 saw at the theater this week.
gowned in dainty flowing chiffon and lace
and see her stride like boy. the picture
becomes grotesque and one is led to marvel
a bit The woman of fashion has need to
understand many things. If her golf and
her tennis have rendered her too impatient
of restraint she should be wise and eschew
the frills and the flowing skirts. for these
last are lovely only when worn with grace.
charming only when they seem part OF a
deliciously feminine whole. The girl who
cannot learn TO accommodate her step TO
her long skirts and to drf<)e her silken
scarf about her shoulders with grace would
be wise to refuse both, let prevailing modes
be what they may. for nothing could be
more absurd than the mannish manner in
those dear, FULL old-time gowns that be-
speak femininity in every line and fold.
OTHER OLD-TIME EFFECTS.
Not alone have models been revived; we
also are seeing old-time colors and old-time
effects, so that entire harmony prevails.
One of the latest colors is antique green.
and many of the newest veilings and silks
are shown in shaded effects, and suit the
full skirts admirably we'll AS lovely a re-
ception gown as any / have seen is of wolfe
In shaded brown that runs the entire gamut
from the deepest shade to a bit of yellow,
and is made with one of the fashionable
full skirts that is laid in plaits at the belt,
the lightest shade being found at that point
The antique greens a delight. and suit
the soft tanetas and louisines admirably
h.ru se1lss.
a wedding of the week is of the taffeta,
and is made with a full skirt on which are
set two fiounces, shrred In several rows
each and turned under to form headings.
The blouse is of the appropriate ones.
with deep yoke of represe lace edged with
a fichu that is finished with frills and en-
broidery, and big full sleeves shirred at
the shoulders and again above the elbows,
then gathered into cuffs finished with falls
of lace. The lines were all good, the effect
was charming, and color and design suited
one another perfectly well. The sleeves
were, indeed, triumph, and gave all the
sense of bigness demanded by la mode while
avoiding all additional size at the waist
line. With the costume was worn of
the lovely loose coats of lace that bid fair
to be a craze the summer through IL was
quite collarless and simple in shape. with
wide bell sleeves, and was made entirely of
white chantilly over cream taffeta. Paris
is talking shawls and shawl-ike wraps.
but, while a few have been imported. I see
no evidence OF favor as yet. IL may be
true, as stated by some advanced design
ers. that both they and overskirts are COM
ing, but faith in common sense is not quite
dead, in spite of many things. and / cannot
quite conceive the modern woman wearing
a shawl unless II be in her carriage. where
no effort is to be made.
You will remember how a year ago pre-
diction was made of crinolne 1 said then
and L say now. that IL cannot be gener-
ally revived, and l do not think these
other things will come i'm any great num-
bers. We have adopted the full and flow
ing style, to be sure, but In our costumes
of formal dress only. The suits designed
for shopping, walking and the affairs of
life are made with short skirts. snug about
the hips, If laid in fiat plaits below, and
short coats. We no more could wear
those others in our crowded shops, i'm our
overcrowded cars and as we climb the
elevated steps. than could the japanese
ladies. who have made their homes with
us. cling to their kimonas, as they share
our busy lives
A PRETTY FASHION.
One Of the prettiest fashions Of the
season is the little capelike fichus. which
are made to match the gowns and draped
about the shoulders. They are quite sim
pie in shape and style and are finished
with frills OF the material or lace. then are
passed round the shoulders and knottec
at the front, their long ends hanging
we'll 10 the edge OF the skirt. They are
charming in the soft silks and pongees.
OF which there are so many, but. some
way. appeal 10 me specially ia the thin
gowns of lawn batiste and the like A
most fascinating null Is. FOR example.