New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1904-12-07

= y % u
% Bat the true Secret Of the Savoy he does no.
" know. Would you know it ? %
I would. IL was the quest OF that secret which
had brought re to tha Masters presence.
% The foundations and the walls are not steel
" they are not stone this great structure was
" formed OF more tender, : most costly, element
" Yellow gold bought pGler butter. It is good
= cooking that has made the Savoy Hotel, and I
" viii tell you why the art OF the kitchen reposes
q upon butter why, when the child ceases to live
. upon milk the civilized man begins TO live upon
81 coInestibles which depend for their SAVIOUR upon
butter. All this VIII tell you If may count
" upon your discretion.
The Master was assured that his words would
be repeated TO none save those who respect his
art--surely the readers OF Tie Times are all a
that eategOry-aDd . disclosure OF the secret vas
entreated.
The Master proceeded -
" The Savoy means NY Kitchen, ny Kitchen
. means ny butter would not fatigue you
" with ny hobby IL it were not that this 10 n
" truth . very serious question. You VIII, SiH,9
: think, accept NY ruling when myself say that
= an no better cook than any one Of the scoreot
" US who conduct the kitchens Of their Maiesties
" the reigEing Princes OF Europe and their
" Ma5esties the clients OF the few restaurants
: alas even IN Paris there remain but two OK
" three-where the traditions .os our art are stu
" respected. will go further than that, Slry
am fortunate IN that my eudeavour, gain
" some enecC through the collaboration Of nv two
" IeUte1ants, who in fact do almost al that YOU
: probably believe To be done by ne They
" occupy themselves with the detailed suo<sr.
vision or ny twenty-four Departmental Chlets.
. with whom, save for courtesy need NOT 'exS
- cEtnSea phrase IN q twelvemonth either OF tha
" two ean cock as wellas /. NY Chief OF the Sauces
Z" has under him six artists, any one OF whom win
" compose brown or white sauce IS well as Z
The Chief Of the Roasts comes next IN the hier,
. archy OF our art, for, as Briuat-Sa7arin said
" Hen become FIeld-Marahals OF the saucepsn'1
they must be born Field MaFshals OF the spft.s
! " He has under him eight spitmen any one 81
. them can roast as we'll az T. II has been
:. more than once nyprfvilege to makemy utmost
" enOFt Tor yoTr King IS indeed in my earlier days
" was o&teu permitted to tempt his appetite when
:" he came tCParts as the best-loved Of visiting
- Crown Princes. Well, 7 did not with ny own
. hands stir sauce for his august deiectatfon,
. nor did I watch his saddle OF PauiIlac change.
before the fire, from the golden yellow Of the
=" melon 70 the warmer brown OF the chestnut.
" Since yon are o. our Ssvoyards since may
: count yCu among those who know that there
. may be men who eat delicately yet do nos
:. think delicstely, while there are no men who
50 think deHcately save those who eat deIicsteIy,
. yOu VIII not think absurd when compare
" small things TO great by saying that Kuropatkin
- does not personally shoulder a rifle. ] have
: here dIsy cooks, any one Of whom can cooks
" dinner should not be ashamed 70 sign
I'D. At THE SAVOY. 29d. At HOME.
.''The English, honss7fiEsr hnacfnes that she
" because she has notat home so good COOK
" as 1. She VIII add, no doubt, that she has not
2 COOK whose services are so generously re-
" In1nerated- She is>in error. 7 have made the
c@IcG12tIo1.; Wh5a she dires here she pays ne
" Just seven farthings for my services-in he-
" hone she pays her cook eleEsn faEtbinzs for each
" person at each neal
expressed my gratitude, ny sense OF the IN
suihcIency Of seven farthinSs.
: 90 not mean 20 imply that the fortunate
Ia SAVOY have al IaI t.
more than amply ny services; put before YOU
" no more than the ecOnouic trUisnn that q cook
" VINO really knows his art nay direct the
. preparation OF the most exquisite repasts, and
" Yet levy from each SayoyaTd At each meal a
" tax less than that which IS levied from each
=" member or an English household BY Gwornan who
- might have been in sOmsother capacity most
: useful creature, had she not attempted TO ba a
cook at forty pounds year. You tell ne that
: your luncheon was to your liking today; then
" you have not wasted your seven fsrthlngs, which
" VIII IN turn yield ne q pleasure when leave nv
" WORK and sit under tree, Rgeing sereneIy in
:. ny France But yOu nay wish 70 know what Of
ny l1tlITlduaI art you purchased with your seven
" laFth1nSs. You are saying TO yourself. He tells
ne that he does not cook that he did not even
:" SEQ the sauce liked, but that nv luncheon
g." was good because he organized his Kitchen
- with care, because he has year after wear
4" gathered about him stan that he can trust.
- he has told me that the men OF the saucepan
as and the men Of the spit follow the commando,
:" they respect through al his shifts OF fortunes
" from st. Petersburg to Monte Carlo, from
80 Paris to london. an ! then paying nv
. seven farthings as ny contribution toward ths
" annuity which he receives because years ago
. he made the Savoy kitchens what they are /? g
" i that IS your thought, you are in error. Z
- work with my hands, and with my eyes and
- with ny nose spend hours every day at tho
50 receipt OF supplies. Not one French woodcocI
" or Brio cheese, Lot one Scotch grouse or salmon,
. not one Italian Parmesan or beecafcO, not ons
. Irish snipe or ployer, not ono quail from tha
.Pyrenees, not one trufde from the dear Perigord
. where was bo-n-where rs . boy saw trufHes
" IN napkins served at tgo-franc dinners IN the
market toBn-nOt one lamb from Pauillac, rot
one basket o. goose Lvera from lost Assee,
" package OK the butter wnich J. still intending &c
d5cDsS-n0t Of Gil thEss good things comes iatt
" the Savoy that do not inspect That is nv a-cs
Two thousand OF our French cooks belonging 70 tn(
" Culinary Association; snd thera among them Al
" tncton Of belonging, in capacity anothe-, u
"a The star Of the Savoy kitchens
as-ec the Master OF how many his STAG consisted.
" then cook To. cock is chid's play it is nothing
miles you wish to talk about bylg part Of tbs
art OF coollng a2d then must admit that cooking "a
everything. But IN Truth, buying - so far the
" talent that do not think very many OF my colleagues
" either IN London o. in Paris VII pretend fully 20 have
mastered II think not wasting your time as
" understand Il is your wish to compare, iparty ard
" with thu fullest knowledge the Of dining 81 tbs
- Savoy against tAs cost Of dining 1t home
DINNER CHEAPER THAN At HOME.
"Iczsart Sir tho Master continued % that you dns
" a. less cost beneath ROOD than II your house CO
Cur club tAat soup for SOUP sh Tor Ash quality fos
quality, vou s2yo money when YOU srt-use yourselves
" To me- 4t IS Simple truth thai lcS1 you pay al
" each OF yCr repasts less than IS paid to he cook In
private house each repst fer the display of her
essess, your sole fowl salad you
homo t1 ee. II Tor ycur It home you ty 20 buy
g. fiI - 80 -, 5 90 - ~ IsIJ = st,:y. "a
I 20. laf