davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-05-14
and yelled with black chanti1ly draped up
toward the back with tiny strass buckles.

and yelled with black chantilly draped up
toward the back with tiny strass buckles.
Lingerie Hats.
Lingerie hats are among the smart mllli-
merry efforts, and when the chapeau, gown
trimming and parasol are of "brodiere An
glaise'' the acme of chic is reached Some
really costly laces are used this season for
these becoming hats, and the variety which
is considered elegant just now here in Paris
is known as the point de neige. It has a
groundwork of Brussels net, on which ap-
pears design of empire wreaths dotted
with tiny white balls, which has given the
lace Its name. 1t is not cheap dentelle
but nowadays We look with disfavor upon
anything not expensive. 1t is most eff
fectfve design and promises to rival in
popularity the punched laces so much In
vogue. This lace is dyed TO match the Co.'S
tune with which it is worn, and is even
more attractive as a dress trimming than
as hat covering
Another charming revival of fashion is
the SASH, and all the summer gowns of i'm
portance will boast a pretty sash or girdIe
or silk or ribbon. number of Partisan
couturieries are introducing draped liberty
sashes on their new gowns and arranging
them with deep point In front and knotted
TWO or three times in the back These
sashes suggest a delightful excuse for in
auiglng In any special fancy with regard to
buckles. Nearly all of US own some cher
ished relic OF the kind belonging to our
grandmother, and now is the time to pro-
duce 1t for the adornment of our latest con-
fect1ons. No matter how ornate 1T may be.
1t will be in keeping with the present de-
mands, as the buckles Of the moment are
larger and richer than ever before.
Ribbon Accessories.
Ribbons as trimmings are becoming more
and more de rigueur. and the Powered
gauze ones set with fagot stitching are
beautiful addition to a dainty frock, while
the Louis or Pompadour bows are to be
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-05-14
Choice of a Design.

From Harper's Bazaar.
In choosing the design OF gown great
care should be taken to select style which
is suited to the figure; in the lack of this
care lies the cause Of many woman's bad
taste in dress. For slight figure design
with plenty of fulness across the chest and
bust should be chosen, and at the same
time the direction Of the lines of trim
ming should be considered. A broad yoke,
reaching well out over the shoulders, adds
much to a narrow-chested woman's APP
pearance, while long lines Of up-and-down
tucks or bands of trimming are the best
choice for broad stout figure.
In the same way the skirt pattern should
be thought out with regard to the figure. A
plain seven-gore skirt with no shirring or
bayadere stripes or tueks, and with ruffies
only around the foot of the skirt, Is best for
a stout woman. while shirred yokes, tucked
and ruffied skirts. suit the thin woman to
perfection. This years models show two
very definite styles which may be compared.
There is the revival of the founced style of
fifty years ago, and the close-fitting habit
cut of skirt with full-length tucks or
pleats or bands of trimming. The design
should also be considered with regard to
the material to be used Flounces are
suited to the soft GAUGES, while for the
tailored effects wise woman chooses q
material which is firm.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-05-14

straps. running from neck to a point an
inch or more below the arms eye. and
from these straps, back and front. run
double box pleats, with the center Of each
laid in very fine tucks
Between the box pleats in the front runs
a narrow vest of ecru cloth. braided in
dark brown and gold, and a smart stock
collar with long ends in the front is OF rib
Don showing brown, ecru and white. The
sleeves are laid in pleats from shoulder to
a point just below the elbow, where they
are puffed into a Deep pointed cuff of the
silk. laid In tucks and outlined with bulp
tons covered with silk
A brown leather belt natty Elton of
brown broadcloth, trimmed simply with
heavy lines of stitching, and a brown straw
hat. trimmed with stiff bows of brown and
ecru, and fiat gold buckle complete the
costume.
In planning travelling gowns for the chill
dren II Is well to select wrap which can
be utilized for wear with their summer
frocks on cool evenings. This may consti-
tute the only wrap carried in the family
wardrobe A covert coat is indispensable
TOT the growing girl, and the looser the
better. box REFERS remaining in high favor
Sailor Dresses.
The sailor dress is popular with girls OF
ten years or under. The skirts are made
plain and full. and shirred on to a sleeve
less skirt holder. which goes over tho
shoulders. The blouse should be finished
with an elastic around the waist. ana little
ornamentation is used. The rolling collar
may be braided with a single ornament on
the left arm
pretty combination of this sort shows
a tweed with tan ground shot in brown
and just trifie of green The deep. rolling
collar is trimmed with a brown braid, and
the vest or shield is of heavy linen With
this is worn a covert REFER with white
and gold emblem on the arm and great
ivory tinted buttons. The hat is of figured
straw In ecru and brown, trimmed with
brown velvet ribbons and straw ornaments.
Homespun, tweed. hop-sacking and serge
make pretty travelling frocks for girls. A
popular combinatio is serge with heavy
linen canvas.
An effective model shows the front gore
of blue serge skirt laid in succession of
narrow pleats, turning outward. The back
Is laid in a box pleat and the side cores
are plain The coat is a cross between the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-05-14
PARTISAN JUNE GOWNS.

blouse effects. La Mode Is quite as capri
cious in her whims as the type of woman
the poets sing about-"uncertain, coy and
hard to please" 1t Is not often that even
this imperious lady Is 80 divided in her
mind she Is at present between the fas-
cInations of the 1880 modes and the direc-
toire costumes. There is no installing frocks
built on these widely divergent lines. The di-
rectoire costume, with it's long, ught-htting
coat and close sleeves, is as far away from
the full. gathered bodices and much trim
med manche of 1880 as Quaker Is from a
ballet dancer, yet both are equally correct
from an authoritative point of view in the
world of fashion. l hardly think many ex-
amples of the directoire period Will De seen
this summer, as we need more amenaple
style for crepe de chine. muslin and all the
gauzelike, shimmery fabrics that VIII De
worn for the next few months. In thln
cloths and more solidly woven goods this
style is at it's BEST consequently fiuffiness
will revel during the heated term at least
Full Bodices.
But even when the directoire style Is en-
tirely out of the question the full bodice Is
by no means a necessity newer and, L
am inclined to think, more effective cor
sage is that which is draped snugly to one
side and adorned with a double row OF
fancy buttons. chou of shaded ribbons or
some fastening of an ornamental nature
For wolfe or taffeta gowns two stole ENDS
are introduced on the waist crossed in
front over a vest of chiffon or lace and
finished with two enameled buttons just
above the girdle.
Summer is always the season for a per-
feet riot of frills and hounces. and this
year will be no exception to the general
rule. There are any number of dainty
skirts ruffied almost to the waist, but the
newest jupe has fiat tablier in front and
wider gathered panels at the sides AS to
the width of skirts around the bottom,
nothing in this line surprises one now, and
II is nothing unusual for the summer skirt
to measure nine yards at the hem, although
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-05-14

of Tweed in Tan, Green and Brown.
Norfolk and the plain REFER and has a
rolling collar and turn-back cuffs of heavy
linen canvas in ecru, braided in a novelty
trimming, showing blue, ecru and white.
For the awkward age, there is nothing
more effective than the bloused eton, and
the effect of too long limbs Is materially
lessened by the use of a skirt yoke.
A Stylish Model.
stylish tailor model for a girl in her
first long skirt shows nine cores. each fin
ished with simulated pleat, which is per-
mitted to flare at a point just below the
knees. The front gore runs straight from
waist line to hem, but the side and back
cores are set into yoke. edged with sharp
scallops. The bloused eton has a deep,
scalloped shoulder cape and a vest of wide
novelty braiding. The trimming is buttons
covered with the cloth. a tweed. showing
brown, green and just dash of deep red.
For the small boy, linen Buster Brown
suits are fetching, but they rumple easily
and must needs be changed before the jour
ney's end Much more sensible are the
Scotch tweed suits with their neat Norfolk
Jackets and shields to match.
The general coat effects for boys are long
and beited and these coats may be worn ar
the shore over linen suits for cool morn
ings and evenings The Buster Brown
fulled trousers appear in cheylots and
look better, If cut plain and square at the
knee.
If wash suit is used for the boy-traveier,
II should be of heaviest linen in natural
tone, or striped cotton cheyiot OF neutral
tint.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-05-14

PARIS, April 30, 1904.
In looking around an assemblage Of
smartly gowned Partisan women at the
Ritz, in the Bots. the opera or theater one
observes that figures have suddenly chang
ed from artistic and well put up "foppi-
ness Of one may use such a contradiction
of terms) to trim. curving lines which well
define the bust and restore to the waist its
long lost petite proportions. In other words,
we are gradually veering round to tight
lacing in spite of the common sense which
the women of today are credited with pos
sessing. But who could sacrifice fashion
to common sense. particularly when modes
are as alluringly becoming as they are to-
day2 Still 1t is rather hard to change ones
figure so radically with the style of ones
gown.
The revival of Victorian and directoire
costumes is directly responsible for the
wane of the waist invisible and the loose
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-05-14
A Charming White Frock.

A charming costume IN white cloth has q
skirt cut to clear the ground, siashed up to
show plating of the cloth and edged with
tiny gold buttons and nat white silk cor d..
The boiero is rather full sack shape
adorned with buttons and Cords showing
Z wide. swathed band OF rsd and gold
leather. ssss -
dainty new set of white collar and cuffs
IL edged with mauve and embroidered with
purple violets. mauve and purple.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-05-14

IT never would have proposed TO my
wife," said Enpeck with sigh long drawn
out "but one moonlight night simply lost
control OF myself"
~ see," said his friend Bifitins, land you
have never been able to regain it"-Cht
cago News.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-05-14

I the cunning of their creators makes tieli
appear considerably less
Double and triple skirts are finding favor
with those who are tired of gathered ones,
and most exclusive models are made with
| tucks the whole length of the skirt, gradu-
| ating from a quarter of yard to an men
| in depth. The waist and sleeves are aiike
| tucked, and the effect Is simple ana stun
ming although 1t requires an artists hand
| to bring about the result. Everywhere
there are ruchings made of silk, chinon,
velvet ribbon or net arranged on gowns
| from hem to hips and from neck TO DUST;
These ruchings take lot of material and
are troublesome trimming to make, but
repay the expense and labor in pretty eff
fects.
Thin Wolfe Novelties.
Voiles in thin varieties will create some
of the daintiest summer costumes, and the
graceful possibilities and lack OF expense
| make a gown of this material charming
addition to ones wardrobe. A decided nov
city is the combination of faced cloth with
wolfe applied as trimming in bands and
straps dotted with small buttons. The
usual lining for gown of this fabric Is
silk of the same color, but some very smart
models have a contrasting shade under
them. Most successful Is mauve wolfe lined
with pale blue, sapphire blue lined with
white and a clear pink over pale yellow.
A Pompadour dress seen the other after
noon at a studio tea took my fancy wonder
fully. me roses were scattered over d
gray ground and the dress was entiraly
framed with a lettuce green ruche The
oorsage, cut out at the neck over fine cof-
fee colored lace was draped with band
of the same ruching fastened with a fiat
bow in the back. A fall of lace down the
front of the bodice was held In place by
several black velvet bows having small
strass buckles In the center. The sleeves
to the elbows were composed entirely OF
rows of lace en- forme looped up with black
velvet bows. The hat of soft green straw
was trimmed with a garland of rosebuds
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-05-14

Bowling is q comparatively new sport
for women, but for men 1t is hundreds Of
years old. Queen Anne used to have q
great admiration for the sport. and no
fashionable gentleman during her reign
would have thought Of building q country
seat that did not possess bowling green.
The queen probably would have tainted
at the thought of ladies In sweaters de-
livering heavy balls and talking about a
double -header," turkey q "railroad'
or poodle"
The bowling green was sought altar
dinner by the Dutch and British OF old
days. They ate heavily, gorging on beef.
pudding and ale and they considered this
after-dinner exercise an aid to digestion.
Modern science teaches that no violent
exercise is good immediately after eating.
Digestion IL enough for the body to at
tend to for half an hour after the meal,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-05-14

The blouss has three narrow shoulder
The progressive farmer. [volume] (Winston, N.C.) 1886-1904, 1904-07-12

special privileges which they now enjoy, and
which alone enable them to exist, should be imme-
diately withdrawn. Corporations being the crea-
lures of government should be subjected to such
governmental regulations and control as will ade-
quately protect the public. We demand the taxa
ton of monopoly privileges, while they remain in
private hands, to the extent of the value of priv
ileges granted. We. demand that Congress shall
enact a general law uniformly regulating the
power and duties of all incorporated companies
doing interstate business"
In Mr.. Watson, as the Charlotte Observer re-
marks, "the Populists have doubtless nominated
their ablest man." No resident of the South has
made a finer reputation as a historian, and he is
also a remarkably able lawyer. A man of intense
convictions and the highest character, he COM
mands the respect even of those who disagree with
him. Rev: DR.. John E. White, of Atlanta, said
to us some time ago that if Watson had been will
ing to smother his Populist sentiments, he would
probably have become United States Senator from
Georgia and a great political leader. His "Story
of France" Napoleon" and "Iife and Times of
Thomas Jefferson" are about the most notable
pieces of serious literary work that have been done
in the South these last ten years.
The progressive farmer. [volume] (Winston, N.C.) 1886-1904, 1904-07-12
GO TO THE FARMERS INSTITUTE.

We again urge every Progressive Farmer reader
interested in progress and improvement and who
can possibly reach one of the Farmers Institutes
planned for this summer, to attend and take along
with him some less progressive %neighbor. Maybe
it will awaken him to the Importance Of studying
his occupation and adopting more profitable and
rational methods. The Institutes already an
nounced, it will be remembered, are as follows:
July 16.-Pittsboro, Chatham County.
July 18.-Carthage, Moore.
July 19.-Troy, Montgomery.
July 2O.-Asheboro, Randolph.
July 21.-Concord, Cabarrus.
July 22.-Shelby, Cleveland.
July Standardization, Rutherford.
July 25.-Marion, Mcdowell.
July 26-Morganton, Burke.
July 27--Granite Falls, Caldwell. :
July 28.-Dixie, Mecklenburg.
July 29.-Hopewell, Mecklenburg.
July 81 and 28.-Monroe, Union.
We were greatly astonished two or three weeks
ago to learn that in some sections there is a not
nconsiderable number of farmers who will not
attend the Institutes conducted by our Depart
ment of Agriculture authorities because of a be-
lief that they are in the interest of politics. We
should be ashamed to think that any Progressive
Farmer reader is so narrow and ignorant as this
would indicate, but it may be well enough to say
in passing that the Institute conductors will have
nothing in the world to say or do about politics.
and that no local speaker will be allowed to men
ton politics if the Agricultural Department
speakers can help it-and they usually can. The
Institutes are solely in the interest of better farm
ing methods and any farmer who stays away
cheats himself.
1t may also be proper to say just here that The
Progressive Farmers travelling agent, Rev. W. J.
Crowson, will attend these Institutes and will re-
ceive subscriptions and renewals to The Progress
sive Farmer. Garry him your renewal and also
a batch of new subscriptions from your neighbor-
hood.
The progressive farmer. [volume] (Winston, N.C.) 1886-1904, 1904-07-12
CONDITION OF COTTON q POINTS ABOVE TEN
VEAL AVERAGE.

The monthly report of the Chief of the Bureau
of Statistics of the Department of Agriculture
issued last week shows the average condition Of
cotton on June 25th to have been SO as compared
with SO on May 26, 1904; I'll on June 25, 1908;
94.7 at the corresponding date in 1902, and a ten
year average of 84.8.
The following table shows the condition by
States on June 25, last, on May 26 last, and the
~ten-year average, respectively:
The progressive farmer. [volume] (Winston, N.C.) 1886-1904, 1904-07-12

Commenting on this report and the fact that
many cotton experts are now figuring on a 49,
5000 bale crop from the 100000 acres plant
ed, the New York Evening Post says: "Such a
crop as this would instantly put an end to the
cotton famine here and abroad, and would once
more place supplies on a basis where the spinning
trade could make it's plans with confidence. But
of course, there can be no assurance that weather
conditions during the months of July and August
will be as favorable for the proper growth and
The progressive farmer. [volume] (Winston, N.C.) 1886-1904, 1904-07-12

development of the plants as during the past
month. After these trying months have been
passed, there would still remain the question of
an early or late frost before the safety of the
crop be assured, and the vexed question of the
boll-weevil still remains for Texas to master. It
was as late as September, last year, that cotton
condition. fell from 81.2 to 65.1."
The progressive farmer. [volume] (Winston, N.C.) 1886-1904, 1904-07-12
A POSTSCRIPT.


The foregoing review was written Saturday
when the only business remaining before the Dem
ocratic Convention seemed to be that of naming
a Vice-Presidential candidate. But in reality the
most sensational feature of the Convention was
yet to come. Late Saturday afternoon all St.
Louis was a-buzz with excitement over the receipt
of a telegram from Judge Parker declaring him
self a gold standard man and that if this was not
satisfactory to the Convention, he would decline
the nomination. This declaration, offensive, of
course, to the silver men, came like a thunderbolt
from a clear sky, and for a time the party leaders
were in the widest state of confusion. There
we're not a few of the delegates who declared that
Parker's nomination should be rescinded, and in
the turmoil Senator Tillman raced about the hall
swearing that Parker had insulted the Convention
and that "the Democratic Party can always be
relied upon to play the fool at a critical timex
The struggle for the Vice-Presidentia nomination
broke off in the middle, for nobody was interested
in anything but the Parker telegram-which per-
haps should here be given in full as follows:
"Hon. W. F. Sheehan, Hotel Jefferson, St. Louis:
"I regard the gold standard as firmly and IRE
vocably established, and shall act accordingly if
the action of the Convention of to-day shall be
ratified by the people. AS the platform is silent
on the subject, my view should be made known to
the Convention, and if it is proved to be unsatis-
factory to the majority, / request you to decline
the nomination for me at once so a candidate may
a(SignedS, A. B. PARKER"
After all kinds of speeches and all kinds of mo-
tions, the Convention by a vote of ia to 191 final
ly directed the chairman to send the following tel
egram to Judge Parker:
"The platform adopted by this Convention is
silent on the question of the monetary standard.
because it is not regarded by us as a possible issue
in this campaign, and only campaign issues we're
mentioned in the platform. Therefore there is
nothing in the views expressed by you in the tele-
gram just received which would preclude a man
entertaining them from accepting a nomination
on said platform"
By this time midnight had past, the Sabbath was
upon the Convention, and still no Vice-President
had been named. Williams, of Illinois, Turner, of
Washington, Henry g. Davis, of West Virginia,
and Harris, of Kansas, we're before the Conven-
ton, but the Parker forces supported Davis, and
he received a bare two-thirds on the first ballot.
Davis, like Parker, is a self-made man, and has
risen from railroad brakeman to railroad Presi-
dent. But he is not-a man of Presidential calibre.
and his age alone-81 years-would prevent his
performing the duties of the Office. The Demo
cratic Party must begin to do as the Republicans
have done these last two campaigns-force some
strong man to take the Vice-Presidency against
his wishes if no man of Presidential size volun-
teers for the place. The Convention adjourned
at 1.31 Sunday morning.
The progressive farmer. [volume] (Winston, N.C.) 1886-1904, 1904-07-12
G.
Secretary N. G, r. L. @. A.

Raleigh, N. O., July 8, 1904.
Mr.. @. B. Campbelle, Sec. N. @. r. L. @. A., Red
Springs, N. @.
My dear Sir:-Your letter of July 9Th an
nouncing the action of your Association in max
ing The Progressive Farmer it's official organ, has
just come to hand, and I hasten to expression
behalf of my co-laborers and myself-our appre-
citation of this recognition of The Progressive
Farmers earnest efforts in behalf of the rural
mail delivery service and the rural mail carriers.
We are proud of the fact that our paper was the
pioneer advocate of rural mail delivery in North
Carolina, waging in 1900, 1901, etc., an aggres-
sive campaign in it's behalf and urging farmers to
petition for routes, months before other publica-
tions became interested in the movement, and
while some were actually opposing it as a Federal
scheme to give jobs to ofice-seekers! The Pro-
gressive Farmer will continue to work just as
earnestly as heretofore in behalf of the service
and the carriers. We shall be glad to publish all
official communications of the Association and
have the individual members discuss their prob
lens in our columns.
Again thanking your Association for this ex-
preston of confidence, I am,
Sincerely yours,
CLARENCE II. POE:
Editor and Manager.