The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1904-05-22

pine soldiers are responsible for
~ the Mantilln girl OF 1901, al
EyFysslI though they may not be aware
leLNial3J OF the fact. Nevertheless, II
was -tiley who first brought back the
mantila among their gifts for sweet
hearts and sisters. or course, the latter
tried on their new possessions. and In
their secret hearts regretted the mex
orable law which RELOCATED the use Of Inc
mantIla to the dark-eyed beauties across
the seas.
In due time the army officers. wives
and tourists also returned with trophies
from the islands. and the mantilla began
to be worn at parties receptions and me
theatre. Meantime. the girls who we're
not so fortunate as to be the recipients
of genuine mantillas sought 70 supply
the deficiency. This resulted IN me use
Of the finery and rare old lace which had
been handed down from aud lang syne
Nor would the original owners be
ashamed IL they could see Some OF Inc
charming mantlllas which have been
Fashioned out OF their cherished be-
longIngs. And so the E1antilla girl OF l9pi
is with us In all her fascinating glory.
Some OF her mantlla combinations are
beautiful, and varied effects are seen W
+hn encouragement Those who have zeal
old Spanish lace have no difficulty IN
producing the most fascinating mantlitas
imaeina BILE W These are worn 10 SUIT 'nc
findiyidunl taste, but are usually isht
and fluffy go al not TO interfere Win We "
arrangement OF the hair q laNoriss
way, however, Is to fasten the point q
lace on the middle of the hair ny
nrcscent min or other ornament. The
long stole ends reach to the bottom OF
the gown in front. Ono end Is olleh
mined 10 the waist by n rich ornament
come Of the laces employed for TINS pur-
nose,are the soft Chantilly, point gauze.
polnt Venice Irish crochet. mechiiH ana
even valenciennes. For the simpler lis ss.
t,Iaa point desprit. chiffon, crepe oe
enine and liberty silk are used for the
Foundation. Narrow mechlin and rucn-
10 arc much used for edging. Applique
iaces ribbon flowers and frinSes are pop
ular for trimmings
An accordion pleatcd liberty silk which
comes By the yard Ia especially des'ranle
Tor mantillas 1t is about sixteen inches
wide and is shaded until It looks iike a
rainbow. The richest coiors sen = a. =,
n,,rnle. red, green. blue and PINK oil Oh
which look like shimmering panne when
crinklesd and pleated. II purple Is the
color scheme, the rainbow effect Is Oh.
tanned by sewing four-inch widths OF
liberty silks together. Joining by nan
inch tuck Four distinct colors are useo'
shading from pale lavender to hellotrope,
are by an invisible tuck. the coloTs blend
into one another and harmonize exquisite
ly.
Another quality of the accordion pleat-
ed liberty is not shaded. but In one soiia
color 1t Is tucked. and on the edge OF
each tuck close together . silver or
gold cord When pleatcd, the effect Is
Charming A pale blue mantilla made Of
this material had an edge OF white cnlt-
fon also The silk Is purchased by the
stretched yard.
II is quite fad among girls who can
WELD paint brush gracefully to decorate
their mantillas according to their fancy.
Mousseline, chiffon. liberty silk and even
dainty muslns and organizes are used
for this purpose. A shawl shapn1 man
tilla OF sheerest silk muslin had the
point and border decorated with ravish!ng
sprays of violets and their leaves. A
frill OF the same had violet petals painted
on 1t, minus the stems. Another one OF
silk had a boiling cloth surface be-
sprinkled with pansies Wild roses chry..
santhemums. forGet-me- nots and mar
guerite daisies are favorite blossoms for
this work
This new art Is called Japanese shadow
pnintin- and it is easily done. after n
few experiments en- cheaper materials.
It is ACCOMPLISHED by the use Of dyes
or water color Paints applied to tho out
Ing. Blotting paper Is placed underneath
tho fabric to keep tho oil from snrrad.
ing. The delicate shading Is done after
the first coat has thoroughly dried.
Some of the llandsomest niautilas, are
in the shape Of long scarfs. These are
corded silk. like the popular Roman
shawls. Others are Of the Japanese em-
brnldored shawls, They comeeln all col
ors, hut the favorltes are the DAINTY
blues, pinks and creams, which are edged
witt, white marabout fur. The latter
Is suitable for evening wear In summer
MS well as winter, because OF IT'S flut-
fitness, which is akin to chiffon effects,
Since ribbon embroidery has peeome
such a fad, exquisite effects are seen
on head scarfs. A cream liberty silk
mantila had pink clover blossoms ribbon
embroidered on It, Spangles of gold con-
pected the blossoms and gave a peaull1ul
effect by electric light. A pale blue nous,
seine scarf was covered With yelloW any
black butterflies with wheat heads pc
tween A tinsel cord on the mousse''he
frill accentuated the contrasts,
Rich effects of pure transparent lace
make smart mantilas, especially over
dark hair. These are sometimes deco,
rated with trimming OF rich lace ana
spanges, the edges outlined WIN SIN,
The lace design is often outlined IN the
same way,
SIX or net, with apphqueu ls. ,or
OF cut-out velvet. make rich poay LOT
the mantlla, bur the lace edge always
receives especial attention. rnlIlen
edging of gold lace mixed with other
ruffled chiffon gives a charming effect
Medalllons to match the foundation and
In contrasting shades are often seen, II
the mantilla is colored, the medallons
have to be dyed to the shade OF the
foundation.
Soft taffeta silk ruchings are also popu,,
lar for trimmings on mantillas as wei
as gowns If red is desired, it has to
be made to order, as none of the shops
carry variety of trimmings in this
color, There are so many different
shades of red that 1t is d!mcult TO
match them. "A precedence has, there
fore. been established to encourage
patrons to order their red trimmings made
to match their samples