The daily morning journal and courier., 1904-05-19

year WHICH IS TdIely edLtil ntlS db oii is dandelion. It is to be had in many of the restaurants, and foreigners eat it, but the green and white leaves appear on very few tables. Yet served with French dressing mixed with yellow of two hard boiled eggs, the salad is deli cious and very wholesome.
 The leaves must, of course, be tender and not bitter. and the white hearts must be carefully cleaned. The Italian abound in the stuff at this period of the year, yet few New Workers ever take the trouble to vary their lists of salads with it.
 The French endives make a delicious salad with a French dressing. Another salad that French people in this city like is feticus, which is in the market for only few weeks; but a deliciously tender and delicate vegetable it is, so delicate in taste that it is to be served only with the French dressing. Its flavor cannot stand anything else.
 Knobs of celery may be made into a delicious hors d'osuvrs, which scarcely serves as salad but is novel relish. The knob of head of celery is cut into thin slices and they are dressed with a combination of oil, vinegar and mus tard, with the last element prepondera- ting greatly. The knob of celery is crisp and sweet in taste at this time of the year and is not especially expensive since the celery itself is no longer good
 Another similar relish, which also serves well as a salad, is rarely seen on any tables in this country, although it is easy to get and not expesive. It is most poplar in Germany, where it is served with meats.
 Radishes are cut into thin slices and covered with French dressings, over which parsley and a little onion are lgrated. After they have lain long in { the dressing to be soaked there is no more delicious salad than these radishes which seem to lose under this process all that is objectionable in their taste sometimes. Served in this way, more over, they are rarely indigestible, even to persons who otherwise cannot eat them with comfort.
 Some of the French additions to salad will never become popular here. One of these, for instance, is cold beets, which French stewards always like to add to salad when they dare.
 To the American taste there is some thing objectionable about the taste and use of a cold beet which prevents it from having place in the menue of any refined dinner But in most of the best French restaurants cold beets are used if the guests do not interefere,
 On the other hand, the French meat salads are growing more in popularity every year. Madame Gaston-Blay makes a speciality of some of these, which are delicious. Her cold salad, served with carrots, cold peas and occasional heads of cold asparagus, is a make delicious salads. Cold string beans' served with young onions, ir strips, are delicious, and so are cold spring peas with served with a sauce that seems a combination between a lmayonnaise and a French dressing
 Heart of lettuce salad with Gorgon- zola cheese carefully crumbled between the leaves makes a delicious, if very lrich, salad when served with French dressing Tomatoes are never better than when the insides are removed tc make room for chopped up cucumbers and little onionos that have not yet ac- quired flavor enough to assert them selves.
 l Cucumbers are of course, to be hao better always in a private house thar in hocst in Iae dim past there were restaurants ir which the cooks thought it worth while to take all the time needed to prepare cucumbers so as to make them possible for human consumption without danger but that time has passed now.
 Cucumbers must be soaked for several hours in water to remove the poision ii them and then half an hour before they are eaten they should be laid in cold, il fact ice cold water, to restore theil erispness before they are eaten. After that they may be treated in any way But they are not really fit to eat unti revelation to persons who have not eat en meat salad.
 The meat is not cut up in the way one might suppose, but is mixed witt truffles and spices. Then with these there are satisfying slices of the meat
 Without the meat at all there are diff
 ferent combinations of vegetables tha this has been done. For cooks who arc unwilling to take this trouble, the best Emethod of preparing cucumbers Is tC mitigate their bad effects with red pep
 per and any other palliative.
 l Cut the heart of a cucumber chol
 up the part removed with green pep.
 pers and onions and then replace it, pu
 the whole on ice, then before serving
 pour mayonnaise or French dressing ol
 it. That is the way to make a delicious
 salad for this season of the year.
 Tomatoes cut up with the heart of tn, ] cucumber are delicious, so long as ther
 is pepper enough in the dressing ant
 on the inside of the cucumber. Ret
 pepper may, indeed, be freely applied
 to cucumbers. It does not take iron