The Savannah morning news., 1904-12-25

In the worlzrooms of smart dress
makers just now there is much talk of
wraps. 1t is declared that if sleeves
continue to mount at the shoulders all
muffings, whether for day or even
ing, must accommodate their lines TO
the new conditions. Already Tine
change has been widely exploited in
evening wraps. the majority Of which
are in the form of entirely untitled
capes. or dolman NANTES. The high
shouldered and wired sleeves beneath
hold these out with a square effect.
The fulness Of the cape. however. be-
gins below the shoulder line. Vast
dolman sleeves are achieved in some
of these capes, and they accomplish
on good figures an effect of rare
grace. The skirts worn with the
capes also are generally long and
sweeping. which adds much to the
poetry of the loose mufiing.
Some of the eape-cuts show in the
skirt position lower flare, made by
a circular 1ounce. with trimmings to
hide the joining. Sometimes the
1ounce takes a beetle dip at the back
Of the cape, the front in this case be-
ing very much shorter and the sides
rounding up gracefully. Trimming
for the shoulders Of the capes takes
many forms, but since shoulders are
higher the old d. coping collars arc
now rarely seen. Such new collars
as appear are generally out to en-
phasize the square look. and dropping
shoulders are made TO appear square
by clever padding.
Simplicity in Evening Capes.
The simplicity Of the cloth evening
capes in many cases is marked, for
with the exception Of handsome fur
collars of some sort. many models
are untrimmed. In this case a rich
color is chosen which harmonizes
well with some rich skin, as pale blue
with chinchilla, burnt onion with
black bear, etc. This last shade mas
been found so universally trying that
II Is now rarely made up alone, and
rich white Innings are found necessary
for further relief.
A stunning French cape Of burnt
onion cloth with a white lining is
worn with a huge tippet Of black
skunk. A cape in Montespan blue
cloth-which Is an exquisitely delicate
shade Of azure. has the baggy sleeves
gathered at the bottom into wide
chinchilla bands. Below these are
falls Of blue chiffon and lace. the same
materials with deep chenille fringes
forming a becoming trimming for the
neck Of the cape
Burnt Onion and Emerald Green.
Among the fantasies are some very
odd effects. a combination Of white
silk and emerald green velvet being
one shown In an opera mantle. This
cape IS shorter and rounder than the
other two described, which fell a trife
short Of three-quarter length. It is
cut with undulsting edges. a velvet
band showing between two others OF
the silk. Dolman sleeves are made by
the cut. and the round collar repeats
the trimming shown In the bottom OF
the cape.
second cape Of even more dressi-
ness Is Of white lace with medallions
IN blue and pink applique and en-
broidery set 'Cff by a square collar
and edge Of Russian sable. The mode
% this Is the ordinary simple cape ex-
cept that the bottom hangs like a deer
founce from a fitted yoke portion.
n IL surprising how many airy even.
ing wraps are seen. for lace and gauze.
are now considered somewhat smarter
textures than plain cloth. But they
nfe often 70 blended with SILK and vel.
vet, and 80 decorated with beads and
Cd under flouncc-alaO pleated ia tbs
embroidery that Il la difficult 10 tel
what h the ground material. For ex
ample. a magnificent cloak designed 20
one Of eocletyE leaders showed an up
per portion o. black spanRlcd net ans