New-York tribune., 1904-10-16


adopted II into her race" and even the lock-
gates and keepers whitewasied houses 90 not
the illusion, but appear some obvious and
natural feature OF the scene.
OF course. the chief delight Of a journey like
this is n lounging upon the deck in placid en-
jOyment Of the unfolding panorama which seems
10 have in all its length no spot OF coTnmonness
10 spoil its loVeliness; but there are many and
diverse wayside pleasures. The region abouncs
in varied and interesting bird life. and in June
is vocal with a rich variety OF song notes.
The mule. in the face Of common opinion to the
contrary is a gracious beast. and submits 70
be ridden bareback by the hour The irregular
bank opposite the towpath. quantity called The
burnside from the burn raceway around
every lock- offers more or less hazardous climb
ing. Cunning. fishing and bathing obvious
amusements, but beyond everything canoeing
is the sport for this sort OF trip The quiet
reaches OF the canal. especially in the longer
levels are admirable for steady padding. while
the upper Potomac, at most points short carry
from the towpath. presents a succession OF
rapids alternating with smooth stretches Of cur
rent
Peaceful as is the mule yacht" voyage, one
may meet with an adventure. II befeu that be-
fore breakfast the first morning out the boat
drifted easily into q lock, the lower gate was
closed. the sluices OF the upper gate were opened.
ana the water bUbbled and seethed into the lock
The craft lifted al instant, stopped. ard stuck
fast The water SIN rushed in. but the mule
yacht" did not bulge; she was Wedged snugiy
between the side walls where clear way OF
o-4-ter OF an inch would have hoated her safely
through. The food continued TO rise and was
soon streaming into the hold through crevices
Above the waterline- Bedding and baggage were
set ahoat; devastation invaded the kitchen and
spCliation threatened the pantry. The cebark-
alton was sudden and general. being headed By
the cook. and was accomplished under q shower
OF handbags and disjecta membra Of luggage
fung desperately ashore
IN a few moments the inrush OF water was
stopped the rear gate again opened, and the
food subsided The vessel was then dragged
backward out; passengers manned the pumps
and the crew went overheard and effected the
removal OF some extra sheathing. which made 1t
possible to doat free into and through the gates.
on another occasion. owing 10 insufficient slack
10 enable the Line 70 slide clear under the keel
Of a passing boat. the rope caught. drew taut.
and dragged down the after mule-these nautical
terms seem applicable TO the means OF canal
navigation-so that only the prompt cutting OF
the rope saved the poor animal from death hy
Drowning, In the course Of duty. at the end OF
her own tOwline.
These are the troubles OF the bargeman- For
the most part his Is a quiet life he either
drives the mules and smokes or minds the rud-
der ana smokes. or sits upon the poop. sheltered
by an awning Of precarious construction, and
smokes. surrounded By his numerous family OF
barefoot urchina, while his wife discharges her
domestic duties in the single room below. which
serves the entire ships company for every
household use BIS chief pride Is IN his mules.
for which quarters are provided at the bow Tor
times Of rest