New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1904-07-03
OLD COOKERY BOOKS.
Some of the Quaint and Curious
Things To BE Found in Them. -.


cot neglect in his researches the cookery book THE
London Globe" There so great a tendency for the
FN-S OI"is'iS haHlts and customs OF life 20
noticed and uncIorced that the cookery book of our
S"iS' containing as Il does the modern mind many
strange and baraarous dishes is worthy Of some atten-
ton.
Browsing among old cooker, books in their day
authoritative and now only curosities many
quaint and interesting entries which throw light on what
mariner q table cur ancestors kept. and their ideas OF
adequate cookery Ne know very little respecting the
diet OF the early Btu that II seems TO have con-
sisted chiefly OF wild vegetables honey and coarse
bread act to which cur present day
returned. one Of the first cookery books rather
ucause on the proper furnishing appurtenances OF
kitchen. was written by a certain Alexander Neckam
III me twelfth century It. however throws very little
light on what to-day should call middle class cook
cry II Is mainly concerned with kitchen a
man OF high rank. subsequent books Of
cookery. or the manner and food Of the poorer folk
Ior some lime obtain no glimpse. According a
N 1850 II would appear that farmer that period
allowed his kinds II he minded ronst meat
twice week. In Tussers ''IIusbandry' We find men
ton OF curious custom. that confessng
on ShTove Tuesday. the aborer liberty go and
thFesh fat hen and while he is bndfolded kill
eat her with frittefs and pancakes
In 1920 Somerseshire tells US that two meals a
day is sufficient for all ordinary people namely break
fast at H. and supper O. lie dissuades people from
eating partrtdges because they give man asthma
and goes on 10 say: Wherefore when they shall
with young partrldges they were much
better to bestow them upon such for whom they
convenient" Obviously IN those days scares required
respecting certain articles Of food Those IN
childhood DAYS laughngy sang jingle of sing
Song OF SNpsnce' receive something Of a shock when
md that this III! had measure Of reason FOR
in Venetian book, "Tpuarlo.'' published In 1919 we
find recipe to make Pies that the may alive
in them ana NY out when Il is cut up So that Sing
Song Of SSponce probably the epitaph Of four and
twenty baokutrs who unwary enough get trapped
After the restoration there published little book
called The Cour; and Kitchen Of Elizabeth commonly
called Joan crom0e ell the wife OF Usurper,'
The Usurer. according the recipes seems not
to have Jared badly a. TIE hands his thrifty
as is generally decidedly
tasty and worthy even be put upon tables.
We are told that ComweIs favoTite with OF
veal was The juice u an orange, and that he had
great Partially fer marrow buildings. possets and
Nafceh pies We also learn that his wife careful
always 10 have the scraps the table collected to
geher and given 10 the Of the Fields
In The reign Of Charles IL French dishes
creeping into the Ill fare. particularly among
people Of rank Sauces and condiments became IN
vogue. some Of the being OF decidedly costly
character. In little cookery d note 10
the effect that good piece could bought
fourpence, hut the condiments recommended fo-
proper dressing would about shilngs quaint
book. published in 1869. at the star Little BRITAIN
was The Closet OF The Eminenuy Learned Kenelne
Dlsoy ut opened: Whereby s Discovered Several ways
for making OF MethegIin Slider. Cherry etc.
gether with Excellent Directions Cookery. published
by his Sons Consent The larger part the
sists Of recipes FOR the making mixing drinks upon
which subject Sir Kenelrne 10 had much eK
perence We find recipes :oT the making
from Mr. Lady Holmbey.' Sir john Ar1indel's White
Meath Doctor Harveys pleasant Water cider whereof
He used 10 drink much, making ordinary drink
The Countess Newport's Cherry Wine" The writer
says: Two Poched Eggs a dry fryed col
ops OF pure Bacon bad breakfast or TO hegn
a meal he gives what he calls "a
iallioe method to boil laid Eggs Break a very
little hole at the bigger end 81 the shell and
The water "hes boleh LET It remain boiling whites
out Immediately. and Will ind temper
IN the daFs OF SIR kenene Disby Il must have been
serious 10 interrupt the when she
ing two hundred strokes OK pulse
Tea with Eggs he mentions that Jesuit China
recommended fTienc OF his TO take yolks Of
laid beaten with ana pour upon this
mixture. Drink It hot This IS when you home
from attending business and hungry
and 10 eatp perfectly comPo-
tent meal This presently difIuses
indulgence and preserves one a good while from
OF opinion that IN England the allowed
10 remain too long the tea eavNs The Is
&issTere psalm leisurely''
Another writer Of the moderation
in eating and drinking adducinF demonstration Of it,
wisdom the q Daniel and his companions who lived
vegetables and printed Italics
'fatteT and fater flesh than those who Jed
a. the kings table on meat and other iau;ie He also
adcuces the q Samson evidence that
be sturdy and full strength without drinking spuous
liquors The he would have live strictly,
ne advises them make their breakfast on dry breed
and tea. early supper dry bread with
baked pears apples II does not seem 10 be very
nourishng Diet
After the Commonwealth the publication of
books became extensive and usual quite long list
OF the eighteenth century after which the cookery book
nearly spproXimates 20 modern But most
volumes Two books may. however De mentioned one
preface. which that 'rt being
fashionable for book now 20 appear In puock without
preface. for lady 20 without hoop patti
conformed 20 the fashion and the other for
its title 1.-THE Linconshire Family Jewel which may
e4rs l-ivDr SCr sw