davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Savannah morning news., 1904-01-10

being simply to create the furry look
now admired.
The majority of the hats which will
be carried TO the tropics. however,
will be mainly in the lightest mate
rails the best of the models seen be-
in of lace, tu1le, net, flowers and
Panama or chip. Some fetching hats
of black chip are trimmed only with
white plumes. these going with ravish-
ing afternoon gowns of Powered
French muslin or chiffon. For similar
use are pure white chip or cream
Panama hats with black plumes, and
some OF the more expensive models
are all in pale azures and faint pinks.
AS to the gowns which will be worn
with this dainty millinery. they are
principally of a sort that are associated
here entirely with summer wear. For
Bermuda and Cuba, where quite fair
number of social lights now go for
several weeks of the winter season,
white frocks are much in demand.
Duck and pique are much used for
morning wear, the models In these
practical materials. however, being
very dressy and not infrequently
trimmed with inserts of heavy lace.
Dainty little morning frocks of pale
pink and blue chambray are also
made, these likewise lace trimmed ana
For wear with such toilettes straw
and Panama sailors are devised III the
new boat models. trimmed simply
with velvet and fancy wings or birds,
and banked underneath with flowers
to raise them from the head.
But it is the afternoon toilette
which is par excellence the thing or
the tropics. for the evening one Is
the delicate evening f1nery of the
world over. A dressmaker, whose
taste is much relied on by fashionable
folks, has imported for several OF her
clients toilettes which are exact coun-
terparts of some ordered for Nice ana
Mentone.
you see. good French makers can
only repeat their models when the
order is from a foreign country, she
explained; and goes on to add that
even then only one duplicate is mace.
With this recommendation, which
is certainly the best that can go with
the finest of frocks, it Is pointed out
that some of the textures used for
these gowns are of American manu-
facture.
A grade Of organdy. fabricated es-
pecially for Southern use. is employed
in pale blue and corn color for two
exquisite toilettes. In design these cos
tunes are to the last degree Partisan,
which is to say that both skirt and
bodice display an exaggerated loose
ness. Clusters of narrow frills, be-
tween tucks. embellish the entire skirt
and baby bodice of the blue gown.
which, like the yollow one, is placed
over a foundation of coarser white
crgandy. The canary-colored vision
for the yellow is in a pure canary
is softly mellowed with fiounce edg-
ings of white footing and garlands Of
white baby ribbon.
A very long shouldered effect and
an extreme picturesqueness of the
sleeve model are the salient features
Of the bodices Of these gowns; and
with the pulled and flowing sleeves
Rnd the pelerine shoulder draperies
The Savannah morning news., 1904-01-10

negligee. This useful little wrap is
made of white or colored embroider-
ed silk shawls fitted on the shoulders
and under the arms for the sleeves.
On one side the fringe is turned back
for the depth of five inches. so that
it forms deep collar in the back and
band down each side of the front.
The fringe on the other side hangs
around the bottom. The Japanese
silk shawlS are especially desirable
to make these wraps
Some of the stores are selling what
they call silk art squares. They are
really nothing more than handsome
silk handkerchiefs such as were used
by men for muffiers a few years ago.
These are also beautiful for handker-
chief wraps. particularly the bordered
ones. An exquisite one recently seen
was made of four heliotrope figured
silk kandkerchiefs, with a deeper
heliotrope border. 1t was made XII
monia style and lined with plain hello
trope China silk.
A nice contrivance for a GONZALES
cent is the handkerchief wrap, which
is handy to slip on when sitting up in
bed. 1t is quickly donned, and will
not only cover up a gown which is
mussed, but will keep the shoulders
warm. A charming one is made of a
big square handkerchief of pin surah
silk. 1t is fringed on the edges and
bordered with a misty pattern of black
and green stripes. The OF ening is
round in shape and cut directly in the
center of the handkerchief. Through
this the head is slipped, the handker-
chief falling several inches below the
shoulders, and also in points to the
back and front.
The handkerchief is sometimes lin
ed with contrasting shade of silk,
Innlrc
raised. lining also helps to make
a finish for the opening where the
head is thrust through. This, of course,
is faced with a binding silk.
Still another negligee wrap for an
invalid, or one who is convalescent, is
garment called the Marguerite. A
practical one is of robins egg blue
French flannel. 1t was made of a yard
and three-quarters length of the fan
mel, and lined with white India silk
The length was slit in the middle of
the back to the depth of six inches, to
form a collar. White lace was cas-
caded about this and fell daintiIy
down the front of the negligee. The
points of the lower corners of each
end were turned back and caught
lightly together to form cuffs. This
showed the facing of white, around
which white lace was gathered. A
DOW OF white rlDDon at the neck I'M
ished the garment.
Combing Jackets are quite as essen
tial to the dainty woman as any other
necessary. Some exceedingly smart
ones are made Of Persian silks, with
flowing elbow sleeves and a collarless
neck finishing at the base of the
throat.
Some of the short kimonas are made
nearer the Japanese style than any of
the modern ones shown. They are of
soft white silk crepe, lined with pale
blue silk, and have real embroidered
Japanese bands on them in butterfly
and floral designs.
The long kimona negligee gowns are
strictly Japanese and are made of the
cotton or silk crepes, which can be
purchased in any of the best shops.
The bands, too, come by the piece and
are an addition to the gowns.
The Savannah morning news., 1904-01-10

rose, edged with dainty white ruch-
ing.
An all red hat, made of red, silk
ruching was worn with a blue gown,
WHICH had red ruching at the neck and
sleeves. An all black hat was made
OF ruching. as was also the cap with
stole ends. Wide black ruching with
a lace edge was used to finish the cap
and hung from the jacket sleeves over
the hands.
Some of the prettiest ruchings are
hemstitched: others are stitched twice
or three times with white silk to give
a richer effect. These are especially
favored for use on children's coats
and hats. Another dainty ruching is
made deep in the back and graduates
at the sides. 1t is to be worn to give
the Medici collar effect.
Evening coats and wraps never APP
peaTed so fluffy as they do now. Some
of them are covered with row upon
row of ruching. In this case ruffies
of accordion pleated chiffon are cas-
caded down the front and around the
wrists of the long-fiowing sleeves.
For tea jackets. dressing sacques
and house gowns, ruffies are an exceed
ingly popular means of decoration.
Some Of the rutfies on these house
gowns show row after row of ruching,
"ilSA 5iNcS Tic elLeSt VI d "it.O"
lace. 1t is especially desirable for use
on crepe de chine.
Ruching is also made into artistic
hair ornaments, and gives a pretty
finish in the guise of pompons to
evening slippers. Some of the new
flower fans are edged with ruching,
and when folded look like lilies. Even
ing sashes are also likewise beautified.
Evening gloves are shown buttoned
up the arm. with an edging up the
length of the fastening.
Even the new golf Jackets have an
edging of green Fuching around the
neck and down the front, to soften the
generally severe effect. Since this in
novation, modistes declare that they
will not be surprised at any use to
which it may be put. They all agree
that it is destined to play a still more
The Savannah morning news., 1904-01-10

sleeves are so picturesquely old-time
that one is not surprised to hear that
they are designed after those in old
portraits, the princesses of the Louis
periods setting the best fashions.
A Princess Louise sleeve is a wide
elbow-length bell of narrow lace frills
applied to chiffon. Such sleeves are
the chief challengers for admiration in
a bodice of pale blue chiffon and SAT-
from lace. The arm coverings of lit
tie bodice in pale blue and pink crepe
are even more. charming, these short
frilled affairs seeming a part of the
round yoke. This is outlined and EN-
broidered in the bodice colors in lau-
rel design, a neck tie in blue velvet
ribbon, slipping under the needlework
and ornamenting the front. .
A third waist seen is deliciously pre-
suming. for though made of chiffon
it triumphantly stimulates the wadded
camisoles worn before the Revolution.
Nelours mousseline in a delicate gray
The Savannah morning news., 1904-01-10

go skirts quantity full and widely
f1Ounced or primly decked with mar
row ruchings.
An effective toilette designed for
dark beauty is of ivory white poplin
with bias edges of golden brown vel
vet. The round full skirt shows three
straight founces graduating in width.
Lace in a superb saffron tint shapes
elaborate undersleeves, and to 60 with
this toilette a muff in brown tuile has
been designed.
Muffs are no longer designed for
the sole purpose of keeping the hands
warm. They are part of beauty's
armor, lie Cupid's bow or the lance
of the medieval knight. Fashioned
of lace, chenille or net, tulle wreathed
with flowers, or entirely OF blooms,
some of the evening muffs of the
season are of an indcscribable CO.
quetry
Such kinds are now being carried in
the tropics. as a bouquet or fan is
carried, and picked up or put down as
the moment requires. The muff is
usually designed to wear with par
ticular gown or hat, as was one of
white tulle with a cluster of hum
ming birds against it's fiat front The
gown, which was for evening use, was
likewise of white tulle, with skirt and
bodice festoons of narrow velvet in
The Savannah morning news., 1904-01-10

is made likewise and is circular in
shape. 1t is finished with accordion
pleted chiffon ruffes. Another set
is made of crosswise strips of white
crepe de lissie and ermine, finished at
the edge with deep pleated liberty silk
ruffles.
An ossacional hat is seen covered
entirely with ruching. and milliners
say that this foretells some of the
effects which will be seen in Easter
chapeans. The hat which was made
TO wear with the marabout ruff and
muff described in the foregoing was
an exquisite creation, todue shape and
literally covered with white ruching
Around the brim was a row of white
The Savannah morning news., 1904-01-10

rose-quilled back of this gives a bril-
liant flower look, the same accentu-
alton being made on the shoulders of
the wrap by narrow velvet ribbon.
Placed in a narrow band above the
folded cape, fashioned to simulate
hood, this velvet fell in short tied
knots at the front.
Another delightfully."- Anticipated
point about this wrap was the way in
which the sleeves weere formed. The
garment was slit deeply at the sides
and tied some distance down with a
velvet bow. a mass of fields lying
gracefully across the arm. In fact,
there were no sleeves at all, this sim
pie manipulation of the width doing
duty fer them.
A charming indoor gown likewise
jCSlsplayed narrow iruchcs. A5sinthe
green poplin was the material Of this
costume whose closely fitting French
bodice was embellished with a yoke,
revers and undersleeves of OYSTER
white lace.
Numerous delightful little frocks for
afternoon and evening use are made of
comparatively inexpensive textures,
such as French delaine and barege,
and ribbons and laces, trim them CO.
quettishly. Upon a lace gown, appli-
cation of white cloth will be put with
most happy and solidifying effect.
Another curious combination with
these hot weather costumes is butter
yellow batiste with wool or silk, and
for every dressy outdoor toilette a
parasol of equal elegance is designed.
Plain Chinese silk in scarlet, on a
black frame. is the "Crusoe" for a
black net afternoon dress, which will
be worn with a hat of scarlet taffeta
braid.
For those indoor moment. when an
entire change of costume is not de-
sired, there are ravishing odd bodices,
also confected after French models.
and made to be worn with any skirt
which would go we'll with them. These
likewise display the pretty quaintness
that distinguishes all of the best Par
isian things. In truth, some of the
The Savannah morning news., 1904-01-10

where.
Instead of stiff white collars, stocks
are made of the waist material. either
fagoted or plain, and double fold of
scrim, crepe de lisse or ruching added
to soften the effect AS these ruching
come in every conceivable shade and
quality, their use is limitless.
Combined with chiffon, ruching is
made into ruffs the fluffiness of which
is bewitching. Some of these ruffs are
made to fall nearly TO the bottom of
the gown in cascades.
Muffs, too, are fashioned out of
ruching and liberty silk or chiffon.
One of the protest sets seen is made
CT white ruching with a double lace
edge. The ruff is Joined with length
wise and alternate strips of ruching
and white marabout fur. The mum
The Savannah morning news., 1904-01-10

is the material of this, and the soft
texture gives comfortably fat look
to the widely tucked creation. Silk
lace in the same aerial gray held
down with bands of gray velvet. form
the neck band for the cut-out throat
and the frilled cuffs of the wide pulled
sleeves.
This marked and growing leaning
toward the revival of ancient styles
must, Of course. be met by quaint
shaping of our personalities, as it were.
To accomplish this. the whole cast of
tine face is sometimes changed by
some arrangement of the coiffure,
which now shows the side hairs grow
ing. II would seem. out of the cheeks.
A luxuriant hirsute growth at the tenn
The Savannah morning news., 1904-01-10

the jewel green of the birds.
Even when a tropical gown is low
necked, a hat is designed for it, it
being the fad for women to keep their
heads covered in the big hotel gath
erings which distinguish the winter
resorts.
For afternoon concert and driving,
number of exquisite cloaks are seen.
which, however, are muffiings only in
name. The most fragile textures are
used for these, tussore silks in deli
cate colors, lace. chiffon, etc, silk
coat perhaps showing travelled ruches
in the same material and the chiffon
or lace one tiny band of fur or rolls
of a contrasting velvet
The brown fur bands used on one
coat of ivory tussore We're of the mar
rowest description. Edging puffs of
the silk they covered the body of the
loose coat. which was mounted upon
, the thinnest lining silk, in a sort of
surplice band, crossed at the bust
The Savannah morning news., 1904-01-10

fastened at the back, and creating a
very short wasted look. A similar
band trimmed the puffs of the huge
sleeve, whose lower portions were in
narrow frills to look like undersleeves.
No dressy arm covering exists that
does not suggest the sweet folderols
of forty years ago. just as the long
loose evening cloaks suggest the Co
lonial period. The travelled ruchings,
too, used in gowns, and especially as
headings or borders for other trim
mings, are likewise ancient friends re-
turned. having been last seen in the
seventies. A single travelled ruche OF
perhaps three inches IN width COM
pletely borders an evening cloak in
rose-colored tussore. SILK in a deeper
The Savannah morning news., 1904-01-10

important role in spring and summer
millinery and gowning than it does
now. This is foretold by the hand
some textures and jeweTled and beaded
designs which are already being shown
for gowns and parasols. The revival
of the Queen Elizabeth collar, which
is prophesied. will offer another me-
dunn for it's use.
In the making of dressing table ar
ticles it is particularly adaptable.
Pretty handkerchief and glove cases
and pincushions are to be seen made
of this beautiful material. IneXpen-
sive curtains for the summer time can
be obtained by using net edged with
this popular trimming, which comes
in cheap grades as we'll as in wash
able fabrics like scrim.
The Savannah morning news., 1904-01-10
RUCHES AND RUFFS
HAVE SEIZED
WOMAN'S FANCY.

The woman who wishes to be Up
to-date must have ruching for d finish
to the neck and sleeves of her gowns,
and as many ruff as she can afford.
No gown or wrap is considered COM
plete without a touch of ruching some
The Savannah morning news., 1904-01-10

Egypt was the California OF the an,
cient world. The kings of Assyria ana
Babylon obtained their gold from rnS
Pharaohs. A papyrus has peeh Iot +he
dascribine the mines of Akita In tns
eastern desert, which were reacnsu
from the Nile at a. point near the nlo ,'io
ern Dakl<a. A great mining p eoPT,s
lived in the mountains between the E the
and the Red sea in the days before en en-
Ptolemies. Scarcely a trace OF tnen,
survives, but the gold mining in q1InHIisb
is now being revived under hne'
auspices.
The Savannah morning news., 1904-01-10
CHARMING FANCIES IN LIGHT
CLOTHES FOR WINTER RESORTS

COSTUMES EISENHERE
SOUTH
RoBES-EvEN SUITS OF SUCH MATERIALS DUCK
The Savannah morning news., 1904-01-10

Initiating the land ships now en-,
p1oyed in sailing on the sands OIL "a
california and New Mexico deserts s 49,
s,,ccessfl,Ilv used for pleasure or -,
so,1tbern beaches and in many - ~,
narts of the United States, a Lon gss''
builder has made Sailing carri"S
for use IN the Egyptian deserts
The Savannah morning news., 1904-01-10
GOWNS
OF RICH VELVET
AND VELVETEEN

The French Race Meets Set the
Popularity of Velvet and Vel
veteen-But the New Weaves
in These Fabrics Are Too
Beautiful to Need Promoters.
The San Francisco call., 1904-10-31
Sailing Over
Japanese.
Mines.
Rates on the
Overdue
Ships.

Another blubber hunter arrived In
port yesterday, being the third whaler
oil laden from the northern waters to
come home at the close Of the season.
The vessel is the bark Charles w. Nor
gan, Captain J. A. NJ. Earle, thirty
three days from the Ohkotsk Sea, with
1900 barrels Of oil. The catch was forty
seven sperm and two right whales.
Mrs. Earle and her little son were pas
sengers on the bark during the cruise.
One OF the crew. Manuel Silva, died at
sea November 25.
The Morgan left this port November
II, 1903, proceeding by way of the Ha-
Waiian Islands to Guam AT this naval
station about half Of the crew prepared
TO desert the bark. One night when
the captain and most Of the officers
were ashore the men made ready TO
leave They could not lower the boats
from the davits, as this work would be
too noisy, so they took all the covers
from the matches and dropping them
over the side lashed them together,
making a large raft. On this means OF
transportation they were preparing TO
paddle away when the alarm was given
and one of the officers appeared on
deck The tackle which had been used
10 lower the raft over the side was still
the men that were yet on board TO
hoist away. The result was that the
improvised raft was tilted UP and the
deserters, with their dunnage, spilled in
the water
It was a clever trick. and as the bay
is fun Of sharks, who prefer dish OF
sailor 10 anything on a Guam bill Of
fare the WOuld-be runaways made
brilliant records getting out Of the
tor Nd nm the harlfc side They
were all very penitent and as
sured the skipper that nothing was
so enjoyable as catching whales. and
only asked the privilege of hunting
blubber in the Charles W. Morgan all
their natural lives. The skipper gave
them his blessing and set them to
slushing down the masts to keep them
from getting hOmesick. Those whose
baggage is yet drifting somewhere out
on the broad Pacific dipped into the
''slop chest for a new outfit at about
four prices for each garment, stiff de-
ductiOn from each mans payday of oil
and the spirit Of desertiOn was dead.
When the vessel reached Nagasaki
Captain Earle TRANQUILITY passed into
the harbor. where he received a bit of
information that almost Jared the
oakum out Of his seams. He was sail
ing. over some OF the liveliest mines
ever planted for the smashing of a
ship. The light draught of his little tub
Of a bark had carried her safely above
the submarine infernOs, and the nitro
glycerin volcanoes were still a-slumber.
The port pilots took charge Of the fur
ther navigation Of the vessel, and the
japanese officers exhausted their Eng
lish and their breath explaining TO
Captain Earle how near he came TO
taking a cruise up in the clouds. After
that when the Charles W. Morgan had
an occasion TO enter a japanese port
she was more deliberate.
The San Francisco call., 1904-10-31
WRECK CLAIMS
THREE LIVES
Train Collision in Missouri
Also Results in Injuries to
Over a Score of People
CRASH AT A STATION
Second Section of Passenger
Smashes Into the First
as Outcome of Neglect

KANSAS CITY, Oct 30-Three per-
sons were killed and twenty-three in
jured in a rear-end collision on the Mis-
souri, Pacific Railway at Upton, Mo-,
early to-day. The first section of west
bound train No. 8 was standing in front
of the station after having taken water,
when 1t was crashed into by the second
section. The engine of the second sec
ton split the Pullman car Topaz two
thirds of it's length. The Pullman con-
tanned four passengers, three of whom
were killed. There were twenty-five
passengers in the next car ahead. but
beyond a few scratches they escaped
injury The dead:
MRS. BRIGHTWALKER, Lewis
burg, Pa.
MRS MARGARET BURKE. Kansas
City.
]. w. BAGBY, Kansas City.
The injured include: w. j. Black of
Topeka, Kans., general passenger agent
of the Santa Fe, right collarbone
broken and cut in many places; Mrs.
w. ]. Black Topeka, compound frac-
ture of right ankle; ]. S. Calfee, ST.
Louis, serious; Tom Richardson, Port
land, Or, slight: l.. B. Stoner, New
1OIh, 6eIlOuSs Il. D. Wlll0, 4NcW VI n,
serious, and A. A. Seligman, New York.
serious. The train crews escaped.
The blame, according to Superintend-
ent Mckee, rests with the engineer and
conductor of the second section. They
were running twenty-five miles an hour,
when they should have had their train
under control. The first section of east
bound passenger train No. 10 was
standing on the sidetrack, and Engineer
Ramsay of second No. says the head
light of No. 10 prevented his seeing the
red light on first No. 3.
The Coroner's verdict blames the flag
man of the first section for not properly
tagging the second section, and the en-
gineer of the second section for coming
into the station in a careless manner.
The San Francisco call., 1904-10-31
IMPROVED ORDER RED MEN
HOLD COUNCIL OF SORROW
Large Delegations From the Bay Cities
Join in the Impressive
CeTcmODieS

The memorial services, or, more
properly speaking, the council of sor-
row of the Improved Order Of Red
Men and Degree of Pocahontas were
held yesterday afternoon in Red Mems
Hall, 220 Golden Gate avenue. Large
delegations from the tribes and coun-
ellis of San Francisco, Alameda and
San Mateo counties were present. The
hall was appropriately and handsome
ly decorated by ]. S. Godeau, great
junior Sycamore.
The services were of a high and i'm
pressive character and were received
with profound and rapt attention by
the large audience. Following was
the programme:
Remarks, f. D. Brandon; invoca-
ton, John ]. Bryan; duet Nearer, My
God, to Thee Mrs. William Winter
and Mrs. j. I. Rice: recitation.
Blessed Are They That Mourn" NJ.
E. Ryer; In Memoriam," Porter l..
Bliss; tenor solo, The Unseen King
dom," Walter G. Howe; eulogy, Emelio
Lastreto; barytone solo, "A Dream of
Paradise" John Harris; benediction,
Jchn ]. Bryan.