The daily morning journal and courier., 1904-02-25
CROSSING THE ANDES.
OVERLAND FROM CHILLI TO AR
 GENTINE.
Route. of Travel Between inc south
 American nspubite.

Especial Correspondence of the Journal
 and Courier.)
 Santa Rosa de Chilli, Jan 15, 1904.
 Going from Chili to the Argentine Re- public. or to any other point on the eastern side of South America, the trav- eler may choose between several routes. He can sail. or steam, in the wake of the ancient mariners. away around Cape Horn; or take the much nearer and pleasanter sea-path through Smyth's channel into the Straits of Ma gellan, and so on into the Atlantic; or he may cross the mighty Andes by the oldest route of all, on trails that were well worn before a white mans ship had ever rounded the tip of the henis- phere.
 The first named route is the least de sirable, because of ceaseless storms, ex- cessive cold and the length of time it re- quires; yet the majority of globe-trot- ters take it in their comings and go- ings between these ports and Europe, and even between New York and the western coast of South America. The passage through Smyth's channel, though one of the most picturesque in the world, is yet comparatively little known. It is so narrow and torturous, between innumerable islands, each is land mountain, that, after many dis asters no vessels now go that way ex- cept those built expressly for the pur- pose, and but one line of steamers Ger man) carry passengers on regular trips.
 For those who enjoy mountain scen- cry and mule-back transit the journey over the Cordillera is a glorious one, if taken in summer time-or rather in the depth of winter, as you reckon the sea- sons on the northern side of the equa- tor but, unfortunately, the passes are closed during more than half the year by trackless snows and terrific gales that neither man or beast can with stand. From about the 18th of Novem- Der to the 1st of April one may cross with comparative ease, barring the usual dangers and difficulties incident to penetrating 'sthe Land of the Sky" but to undertake 1t one week sooner or later than the dates mentioned would be extremely hazardous. We had hoped that the passage might be now available and that we might go that way into the Argentine country; but word comes at the eleventh hour that recent heavy snow fall has blocked the trail worse than ever, and that for la dies to attempt it for weeks to come would be simple foolhardiness. There fore, being long since due on the other side of the continent, we must take the next southward- going steamer through the channel and straits, consoling our selveswith the knowledge that the glimpses of Patagonia and Terra del Fuego to be obtained by the latter course will more than make up for what will be lost in being compelled to give up the proposed route Besides, noun tain climbing above certain attitudes is about the same thing the world over During our years of zig-zag gging in South America we have crossed the An des many times, in many places and though we may never traverse in the flesh that famous Ustallata Pass be- tween Santa Rosa and Mendoza, it re- qnires no great stretch of Imagination to see it clearly in the minds eye" having scaled several higher passes a little farther northward in the same magnificent Cordillera. Tn order to tell you all I can about it from actual ob- servation, we have made an especial trip to Santa Rosa, the end of the gov- ernrnent railway on the Chilian side of the Andes, where mule-back transit for the upper heights begins; and later we will come from Buenos Ayres, on the Atlantic coast, across the boundless pampas, by the new Argentine railroad, flo it's western terminus, the old city of Mendoza, which lies close to the foot of the mountains.
 The distance across country between Santiago and Buenos Ayres, (the capi- tals of the Chilian and the Argentine republics), is about 1865 miles. For many years overland communication was kept up between the two countries only by couriers, bred to the business as an exclusive occupation. who frequently made the entire journey in eleven days, carrying the mails, traveling upon an average one hundred and fourteen miles e day. Of course this could not be ac- complished on mule-back, and all along the route post-l1ouses were established where horses were kept in constant readiness, the supplies being maintained from countless wild droves that roam the ampas of Argentina and Patagonia. For the ordinary traveller to make the journey required many weeks, and, as before mentioned, it could not be made at all except at certain times of the year.