New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1904-06-13
Partisan Wedding Gosvns.

takes the shape OF medaIons connected with
curved lines and borders the garment between lines
OF pure white silk braid The garment is lined with
thin white silk. which shows through the hlst-
work. There is a straight inside vest OF orange
velvet covered with hlet and trimmed with small
black buttons
Another three-quarter length coat Is OF Liberty
sauze, white ground printed in design.
shirred about the neck and hanging over plain
white foundation 1t is trimmed only by deep
shawl collar of lingerie. fine tucks. drawnwork. mar
row and deep VaIenciennes The edges OF thu gar
meEt receive e little weight fTom a line OF small
ruchngs. The balloon sleeves gather into falling
lace friIs. There is something fresh and youthful
suggested by this garmvat although it has es-
pecial features Brt il has become the custom
TO trsat outside wraps in the most frivolous fash
ion.
Alover white VaIenciennes lace treated with cloth
bands put on with lines OF black velvet makes the
smartest wrap This has a loose vest OF elota
trimmed with black ana white braid, with touch
Of gold embroidery and small gold buttons.
IL the opinions of French couturiers be
trusted early. it is the Directore coat that viii
prevail in the coming autumn. h may not nave
it win take on the general lines OF me garment
French women have been many years IA learning 70
IKE a close lifted. half long coat but at last the
fashion Is raging in France and the DirectOlre Is
see the return to favor OF fitted double breasted
Jackets made with mannish coat sleeves IL is too
there IS an attempt among the tailors TO INTRODUCES
10 stay.
The tailor's idea of the gigot sleeve seen now
on some advanced models Is not graceful Tho
sleeve Is put into small arInhOle and makes a
sausage-like curve to a straight finish like that
of mans coat sleeve. Variations Of this show the
tulness pleated into cuff on the outside OF the arm
only Sometimes the slight fulness at the TOP OK
the sleeve is arranged in tiny stitched peats These
mannish coats are In curious contrast TO the gowns
and blOuses worn now. The tailored suit when first
and intended only for certain occasions. Again
fashion has returned to this idea, and the tailors
no longer encrOach on the province OF the dress
maker
Dressmaking has been improved to a great extent
tailors introduced accuracy OF and perfection
| of pressing and finish that hitherto had been
known among the makers OF feminine attire
White costumes show more often than not some
touch or strong color In the trimming. The elab-
feature or the summer as Et was last year y
gown OF wolfe NinOn is effectively trimmed with
small medalons of pale green velvet. framed
free. full folds from the waist has OF these
medalliOns the knees. heading SIX inch band os
the stun shSnty ruled IKE vice. snirred en-
| tredeux. Then comes another band OF the trim
ming from which fall deep scallops OF the stuff.
like half sunburst to the upper straight line OF
| trimming. and from the indented edge falls
considerable fulness to the bottom OF the skirt,
considerable. Judged even from this standard OF
to-day but the line OF the skirt slopes gradually
from the waist On the so-calet crinoline skirt,
the stuff stands ont from the waist line and the fa
A quaint example Of a crinoline gown is OF white
gHze SPostsH VIII a awe SIX 66Is ana mSentea
/ over a shaped foundation and stirened to stand
away from the hips. The skirt Is trimmed nearly
/ band put straight with a line OF mauvs silk.
| and the next wider shirred band The bodice has
With bands and folds The sleeves are arranged IN
| puffs OF enormous width Just below the shoulders
The three-quarter sleeve seems the one generally
preferred.