davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Washington times., 1904-03-06

began TO rebel at the restrictions con-
vention had passed upon his clothes.
but now the murmur is a loud com
plant; they are insisting on being
heard. these men folk. who want
TO restore TO their sex their ancient and
historic right to wear fine feathers. An
outfitter in town declared the other day
that for quite long time now his Gus
toners have been demanding that their
woven undergo rments should be OF
pure silk and the richest quality. and
heiShoi Of delicate color. whilst an OBJ
servant bOotmaker las been heard 10
remark that nowadays st Is the men
who make revelation Of very expensive
pure silk hosiery. A woman may give
- or 50 for her stockings. but a man
VIII give $40 for his socks; and i'm this
covert way. unbekHown TO the man in
the street. the sterner sex has been in
dulging his secret love OF luxury.
1t comes TO this, that human vanity
will have its way. Poor, dear man.
denied, by convention. outer gar
ments Of the more luxurious sort takes
1t out In costly silk unmentionables. and
having armies of boots and DIRE wers
fuI or neckties and handlSerchiefs of
the costliest lawn and sumptuoue silken
socks and suits, not in sufficient but Of
quite superfuOus quantity. which an
peals 10 me always as a very ineffectual
extravaganza. when the ordinary oh
server can hardly tell one from the
other. the range of fabric permitted
10 him. poor dear, being so limited Bat
it seems as If time was going to Change
all this. and now we are wondcl ing in
which direction it will break on. first
this long-smothered. partially smothered
passion for color and grace.
The Washington times., 1904-03-06

are three distinct types OF hats TO wear
with tailor made gowns. when hereto
fore there has been but one. There il
the stiff straw tailor hat, trimmed
merely with a wing or a rosette to
wear with the instep length tailor made
suit for every day wear. then the hat
bit more dashing and yet not too
elaborate, which belongs with the
French tailor frock. which shows the
demi-train skirt and the tighs fitting
coat, and then there are hats. and
many. many of them. which are de-
signed purposely to give the finishing
touch to the elaborate tailor made
gown These hats are trimmed with
flowers or feathers. and il is the prnner
thing to have them made to order.
In some way they must match the
costume with which they are worn Ii
need not necessarily be in color. for a
touch of the same trimming which deco
rates the gown is often all that is
needed to carry out the idea Of match
ing the hat TO the frock
Some New Picture Hats.
A feature Of the picture hats designed
for Springtime wear is their under brim
trimming.
Pompadour net is a favorite facing.
1t is very lovely in fawn color scattered
with garIands of pink rosebuds, es-
pecially when the hat is fawn-coIored
straw with pink roses as its trimmings.
One of the smartest Of the new Spring
hats is a dashing picture shape in rough
black straw, the straw made to simulate
folds The rather high crown dented
in the center is surrounded with pink
roses. When the top of the hat is Wis
ible it has the effect of a fiower-trimmed
erection But when one catches a
glimpse of the faring under br,m the
entire effect of the hat is changed. The
under brim is OF white straw and close
TO the hair is a smart-Iooking black vel
vet bow with a trailing white ostrich
plume toward the back These new
hats, which can so readily appear two
mats in one. promise TO be much in de-
mand by the woman VINO has the prob
lem to solve CT how to make a small IN
come furnish a varied wardrobe.
The Washington times., 1904-03-06
BY GRACE MARGARET GOULD

m I is only figuratively speaking that
Lent means sackcloth and ashes
TO the society woman. She rests a
bit more. to be sure,-and perhaps
doubles her treatments OF, facial
massage, but as for penance substitut-
ing social gayeties there is none ofSit
That is. as FAR as outward appear
ances go.
She is busy fitting here and there to
bridge whist parties and attending
morning lectures and musicales. and
with luncheons. literary evenings and
her dressmaker. the society woman finds
that life is almost as strenuous as when
the season is on.
Some Lenten Blouses.
The dressmakers are turning out many
fascinating fashions these I,entene davs.
fashions that are not only worth study
ing because of their charm and beauty.
but because of the secrets 1hey reveal
IF the Easter fashions that are to come.
The fact that The skirt ana coat cos
tune has become Indispensable to the
well gowned woman assures the con-
tinued success Of the separate waist
The blouses which are being worn
right now arc altogether lovely
A special fad of the moment is TO re-
peat the color note Of the gown in the
blouse. Just to show that they belong
with one another. This IS accomplished
by an embroidered design or a velvet
or silk inset A white lace blouse will
De trimmed, for example. with bands Of
stitched silk, also in white. and upon
these silk bands an embroidered or vel
vet design will be seen, the design
matching the color Of the skirt and
coat.
-. Russian Lace and Violet Velvet.
A blouse made TO order purposelv to
wear with deep violet cloth costume
was OF Russian lace with violet velvet
orchids arranged as a trimming down
the front OF the waist. The crush col
lar was also Of violet velvet. and the
deep cuffs showed a piping OF the vel
vet. as well as a decoration of the velvet
applique.
The Washington times., 1904-03-06

Many of the blouses worn at Lenten
-luncheons and bridge whist parties
prou~-y proclaim the fact that they are
expensive luxuries.
a new idea is the lace blouse with In
set designs of exquisite gold lace, The
effect Is wonderfully lovely Finely
tucked brown chiffon waists also show a
touch OF gold. sometimes merely in the
deep girdle belt and stock. and then
again by having a bit OF gold ribbon
CLEAN between the tucks.
The Washington times., 1904-03-06

braid and gilt buttons. 1t is a fetching
tailor costume for the woman Of good
figure. The sleeve is a modified model.
elbow. and with only slight fullness
below IT. The cuff flares back from the
wrist and is trimmed with gilt buttons
Perhaps this sleeve reveals q secret of
the sleeves that are to come. a number
Of black and very dark gray gowns in
this style are berg worn during Lent.
In fact, so great is the success OF this
style of costume that the fashionable
woman feels size must now inci'.de it
among her taiior-made gowns, and sure
" there are many times when il will be
just the correct gown for the occasion.
This does not mean. Of course. that the
elaborate tailor-made frock feels itself
at all in the background. for aeve- has
there been a season. generally speaking,
when skirt and coat costumes have been
more elaborate.
Trimmings for Dark Cloth Gowns.
When dark shades of cloth are used
both the skirt and the jacket will In
variably be trimmed with some bright
shade of velvet. braided in black, or
heavy cream lace insets will be used,
with a piping OF velvet The Eton Jacket
is the favorite model for the tailor made
gown, and the Elton which shows a
narrow vest is extremely fashionable.
A dark blue tailor-made gown. which
had just arrived from Paris when
saw il. was made of satin finish broad
cloth, with a rather full short-trained
skirt and an EtOn jacket The jacket
was trimmed with black silk braid and
made with a vest OF cloth of gold. which
was deliberately embroidered in coarse
green silk threads. The sleeves were
trimmed with the black silk braid, and
were very full below the elbow and fin
ished with deep lingerie friEs. These
frills were a the finest Of plated lawn.
edged with lace. and a hemstitching of
gold threads appeared to Join the lace
frili TO the lawn.
Three Hats Are Now Necessary.
1t is the same way in hats as in
tailor costumes for Spring wear. There
The Washington times., 1904-03-06
LOVELY COLOR SCHEMES
FOR NEW SPRING FPOCKS

g HAT a world Of difference lies be
MX tween the taffeta frock Of to-day
W and the silk dress of the past,
Yet is the fabric one and the Same thing
but for it's finish; in the one case soft,
and in the other case stiT and agrees
sive. Any one learned in textiles would
explain that there was a difference be
tween the glaces of long ago and the
taffetas of to-day: but to the less So
phisticated they are the same save for
this sympathetic quality Of softness in
the latter-day version. And it is this
softness of taffetas that makes ii fall
so gracefully into the lines of the fronce
skirt, and fits il for being manipulated
into such winsOme trimmings CT itself
for itself. An eXquisitely picturesque
Paquin frock seen lately was fashioned
OF apple-green taffeta, such a pictur-
esque shade. and the gathered skirt was
manipulated with rouleaux, SC, of the
taffetas and fell open in front TO reveal
a panel of Alencon lace. while the de-
collete bodice was decorated with the
same lace and gold gallon and touch OF
black. just a suspicion. She was de-
lightfully fair, the woman who wore it.
with a pink and white complexion.
Orange Blossom Superseded.
One has only 10 read the paper or TO
attend two or three society weddings
TO realize that fashions in bridal attire
are undergoing a change. White satin.
for instance, is no longer inevitable.
A..
lier materials, foamy chiffon. silvered
gauze. or sOftest silk muslin ana lace.
Wells of the last-named material have
The Washington times., 1904-03-06
Tempting Outlook for Spring

Ribbon embroidery is much used as 4
trimming for the fancy separate waist.
Some dainty design often decorates the
front OF the blouse or outlines the deep
yoke. Shirred ribbon il formed i'm ar
tistic designs. and pretty effects are OBJ
tanned by having the ribbon the same
color as the blouse, only a tint lighter
or darker. silk wolfe. Swiss e-nbroid-
cred null, ombre chiffon. lace and print
ed Brussels net. as well as the new soft
taffeta with a messaline finish. are the
materials most used for the blouses
which are nOw being worn. A little
later on the lingerie blouse will out
rival all others. It VIII be mass Of
fine lace and hand embroidery. and for
its foundation the finest India lawn. or
candle and batiste viii be used Very
many Of the blouses button Up the back
and are made with deep yoke and
cuffs.
The Washington times., 1904-03-06
Tailors Have Evolved a New Idea.

a new style OF tailor made gown has
been introduced this Lenten season, and
is worn with the fancy blouse 1t
strikes happy medium between the
much trimmed, dressy tailor-made and
the plain instep length. smart-looking
tailored suit. IL is a French tailor-made
gown Of severe simplicity and yet with
so many graceful lines that It Is pc
culiarly fascinating. The skirt is full
and made with a demi-train. and gen.
orally it is but little trimmed. The coat
is on the order OF the Louis XVI. habit
coat. 1t is short. falling just over the
hips, and is tight fitting. Made OF black
broadcloth anG trimmed with black silk
The L'Anse sentinel. (L'Anse, L.S., Mich.) 18??-current, 1904-08-27
An Honorable Retreat.

Mention of Bismarck recalls story
he used to tell of an incident which
his grandfather witnessed when serv-
ing under Frederick the Great. 1t af-
fords good reading in the present time
in view of mistakes and rumors of
mistakes, degradations, and equivocal
promotions. of which tales come
through from St Petersburg. During
some maneuvers an ensign made a
mistake, and the old king, in flaming
passion, pursued him with a stick, in
tending to publicly chastise him. The
ensign lit out for all he was worth and
nimbly leaped ditch which the king
could not negotiate, but was left FUN
ing on the wrong side. Later the col
onel Of the regiment reported to the
king that the ensign had rendered his
resignation. 81 am sorry, sire, for he
is really fine soldier" said the col
onel. "Send him to me-" replied Fred
erick. The ensign came in, expecting
to be beaten or perhaps sent to prison.
Here, sir, is your captaincy." said the
king. IT meant to give 1t you this
morning, but you ran so id hard l
could not catch you."-St. James Ga
Zette.
The L'Anse sentinel. (L'Anse, L.S., Mich.) 18??-current, 1904-08-27
CULTURE OF CHINA GRASS.
Strongest Of the Fibers from Which
Many Tough Fabrics Are
Made.

China grass Is the name for ramie.
fiber much resembling hemp. 1t II
the strongest Il the fibers from which
textiles are made; 1t is as fine as fiax,
as lustrous as jute and Is In an excep-
tional degree UNAFFECTED by moisture.
Grass cloth" Of great beauty is made
from 1t In China and Japan.
In recent years the use of ramie, as
1t is always called In commerce, has
been making progress in Europe and
America. In the United States i'm
port statistics 1t has not yet risen to
the dignity of separate mention, but
The British Commercial Intelligence
gives some facts about its use on the
continent Of Europe. Germany's i'm
ports of 1t has risen to $4,000 a
year. while France takes from $4,000
to 100000 worth of It. The French
ramie mills have $1,000 spindles.
The interest of America In ramie lies
largely In the fact that the southern
part of the United States, Mexico.
Central America, and the northern
part of South America are excellently
adapted to raising 1t. In Mexico ex-
periments in its culture has been es-
pecially successful, both as regards
yield and quality. II is a crop worth
watching, because of It's excellent
prospects for future development.
The L'Anse sentinel. (L'Anse, L.S., Mich.) 18??-current, 1904-08-27
Not Her Business.

Mrs. Plummer is one of the gentle,
clinging women who are guarded and
guided by some strong and well-bal-
anced member of the sterner sex as
long as they live. When Mr.. Plummer
died she was overcome by grief and
a sense of helplessless.
"Now, my dear Emily, what are all
these bills?" asked her cousin one day,
when Mrs Plummer had been widow
nearly six months.
"They are gas bills" said Mrs. Plum
mer, looking alphabetically at small
pile of pink slips, "and those blue
ones are telephone bills. They are
beginning to complain at the telephone
office and they've said something about
taking out the telephone; and the gas
company has shut off the gas already.
l sat in the dark last night"
"Well, but why on earth don't you
pay the bills?" asked her bewildered
relative.
Mrs. Plummer looked at her guest
with reproachful, tear-filled eyes.
George has always paid the gas and
telephone bills" she said, plaintively.
az supposed you'd understand. >
Youths Companion.
The L'Anse sentinel. (L'Anse, L.S., Mich.) 18??-current, 1904-08-27
temperance and Eternity.

Senator Gallinger,. of New Hamp-
shire, who is also physician, enjoys
telling of the case Of a maiden lady in
Boston, an ardent member of the
Woman's Christian Temperance union,
who was once taken violently Ill in
consequence Of a too free indulgence
in lobster salad When the doctor who
was hastily summoned to her relief
arrived he at once determined to ad-
minister a stimulent, but the spinster,
faithful to her principle, baked at the
brandy proffered her. Brandy" she
exclaimed as vigorously as her con-
dition would permit, Dare you offer
me brandy, sir?" But 1t is necessary,
madam" expostulated the physician;
you are quite ILL.," The Boston lady
closed her lips in an expression Of ex-
treme determination. "And I may die.
sir, but I'll not meet my Maker with
brandy on my BREATH" "She didn't"
adds Senator Gallinger, 'but they made
her take brandy all the same."-N Y.
Herald.
The L'Anse sentinel. (L'Anse, L.S., Mich.) 18??-current, 1904-08-27
MEDICINE AND THE PUBLIC
Physician Says People in General
Have Absurd Views on
the Subject.

II hate to talk about medicine to the
general public" said physician, ac-
cording to the Cincinnati Enquirer, for
nearly every one has views on the subject
that seem to be absurd, and when hear
these views l sneer and contradict, and
thus, you see, I make enemies. Men and
women everywhere are interested In
medicine, and yet they know nothing
about 1t as rule. When they talk about
It they are silly. When they prescribe
they are fools.
only the other day in country hotel
an old woman prescribed for me. She
saw had cold and she didn't know I
was doctor. Before I could tell her
my trade she had brewed me vile, black
dose that looked like ink thickened with
mud.
Here. she said, 'swaller some o.
this hot herb tea before gettin' into bed.
Swaller 1t as quick as We can, and then
flop onto yer back before It has time to
run down, SO It'll lay on yer chest and
heat yer lungs, and ven be all right In
the morning.
II sneered at her and contradicted
her, as sneer at and contradict every
body that talks medicine. Her nrescrip-
ton. think, Indicated no greater medi-
cal ignorance than that which beclouds
the mind Of the average man."
The L'Anse sentinel. (L'Anse, L.S., Mich.) 18??-current, 1904-08-27

"As his gaze swept the tent for
something suggesting plan for deliv-
erance, he saw It had been Quilted of
everything except two articles--his
light silk coat, which hung upon the
partition between the two tents. and
the tourists shaving mirror which 1t
concealed. The coat had been over
looked because 1t was as grimy as the
tent wall itself.
"In moments like this one grasps
at straws. AS 1t is said drowning
person reviews his past experiences
perfectly in a brief moment, so to this
man, facing desperate odds, came a
desperate suggestion.
He called loudly on a supposed pro-
tector in the adjoining tent to come
to the window and prove to his cap
tor that he was under protection Of
Moslem. AS he spoke he slowly drew
the coat from before the mirror in
front of which the sheik was standing.
mo words can express the unutter-
able CONSERVATION pictured upon that
blazing face, hvid with fright and
wonder, as for the first time 1t saw
its own awful reflection, not knowing
1t was its own. One instant he stood
stock-still, fascinated. Mortified, over
whelmed; then collapsed, Just as that
lady did but a moment ago, and the
American quickly possessed himself of
his captor's arms and was master Of
the situation.
"And now, gentlemen" concluded
the. story teller, I'VE will have our
game"
AS he spoke he again reached for
ward to turn the trump. There was
quickly drawn breath of horror from
those who observed him, for the first
three fingers Of his left hand were
missing.
Before he could turn the card a saw
age lurch of the boat, accompanied by
the creaking of timbers, announced the
arrival of the Rappahannock at her
New York slip-and the trump was
never turned. $3.50
The L'Anse sentinel. (L'Anse, L.S., Mich.) 18??-current, 1904-08-27
GOLD AND JUDGE PARKER.
Record Of Democratic Candidate
Shows That He Has Been
Ambitious for Years.

Oh, well, everybody really interested
In the subject Is sufficiently advised as
to Judge Parker's financial views and
record. He never believed in the free
coinage of silver at 16 to 1. His environ
ment II nothing else, forbade that He
voted for the proposition twice, simply
on the score Of partisan regularity. He
wanted to keep his record straight. He
probably did not expect or wish for sue
cess at the polls. Very likely, he fore
saw what has actually taken place: that,
after drubbing or two for it's follies,
his party would drop. or try to drop. its
more extreme deliverances and appeal
to the country in the guise OF a con-
sentative. That day has come, and
Judge Parker, with record of having
cast none but democratic votes, Is his
party's leader. He solicits the votes
Of silver men because of the regularity
of his record, and of gold men because of
the regularity Of his financial views.
1t may be asked, says the Washington
Star, why Judge Parker, removed at
ment of politics. and when so many of
his party friends were repudiating the
party's platform and nominees, decided
to stand by his party. Did he have his
eye even then on the white house? Why
not? He had, been a politician, and q
good one, before becoming Judge. He
had refused a United States senator
ship as far back as 1891. He was the
bosom friend and associate OF David B.
Hill, the most adroit and powerful demo-
crat In the state. New York was GER
tain not to lose, and she might increase,
her Importance in democratic presi-
Dental calculations. He had many
friends and was ambitious. Why should
he not have weighed all these things
carefully, and shaped his course accord
ingly?
Let Judge Parker be appraised, not
by the Mysteries of a few gold democrats,
who have been very uncomfortablesince
1896 and have eagerly seized the first
excuse for scurrying back home. They
would have the country believe that he
is the greatest man ever. They come
dangerously near to setting him above
Mr.. Cleveland, who until the gold tele-
gram was written monopolized the glory
of this world. But let us consider the
Sage of Esopus as human being, look
ing at things through human eyes, keep
ing very human company and very anx-
ious to be president of the United States.
Evidently he has had his eyes on the
white house for some years. The record
shows 1t.
The L'Anse sentinel. (L'Anse, L.S., Mich.) 18??-current, 1904-08-27
THIRTY YEARS IN UGANDA.
In That Time Fifty Thousand Natives
Have Been Taught to Read
and Write.

In all OF darkest Africa there were
few regions that seemed darker, 80
years ago. than Uganda, on the north
shore Of the Victoria Nyanza. Yet
there was promise In the people. for
all their ignorance and savagery; and
in 1875 Henry M. Stanley, who knew
them well and believed In them thor
oughly. declared that there was no
more hopeful mission field in the
world. Missionaries promptly occu-
pied 1t.
Theirs was no easy task at first.
says Youths Companion, and their
converts, like themselves. had to en-
dure hardships. Up to about IL years
ago King Mwanga would burn sub
ject for the crime of learning to read
1t was slow, expensive work to sup
ply the Scriptures in the native Ian
guage; in fact, the translation of the
Bible was not completed until 1897.
But the missionaries held on, and the
people did their share, to the extent
sometimes of paying 1000 cowries,
the cost of Ave weeks food, for o
copy of the New Testament.
Now has come the time Of results.
Fifty thousand natives can read and
write There are more than 1000
churches In the Uganda region, the
largest seating 1000 persons. and
Professionals and 900 ma
tives profess the Christian faith. OF
recent years the efforts of white mis-
sionaries are exerted chiefly to guide
native instructors. who prove ener-
getic and successful evangelists 70
their people.
Dark places remain in Africa. There
are some nearer home. perhaps. But
this passage of history bears hopeful
ly on all of them. because 1t suggests
that devoted men can always be found
to accept an opportunity for service.
and that there never was or will be
situation SO desperate that determined
effort will not yield rich reward.