New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1904-09-04
Paris Dres.sryaokers Rebel.
Paris. August q.

Paris August %.
The majority of foreign buyers and dressmakers
II is said were forced to leave Paris little satisfied
with their visit. on account Of the refusal OF the
best known establishments to sell exhibit any
models until a certain date in August The attitude
taken by the French coutouriers is not unexpected
for It has in the air for some seasons that the
Paris houses were losing than they gained
by dealing with foreign dressmakers or buyers for
shops that make feature Of dressmaking depart
ments
Foreign dressmakers have found it convenient to
be in Paris early in July. and to leave In August
to prepare for their openings. Some years ago
It was possible for them to buy their models as
early as the middle of July. The first abuse of the
system grew out of the fact that German buyers
got here first, bought the best models. repro
duced them in Germany, where both materials
and work are much cheaper than in Paris, and sent
these copies directly to America. In many cases
the American buyers visited Germany before Paris,
and there bought the same models that were ex-
hibited In Paris for a much lower price
The Chambre Syndicate de Ia Couture at de la
CONNECTION to which most OF the dressmakers and
model makers belong. took measures to do away
with this abuse some years ago by advising Its
members to refuse to show models before date late
In July or to furnish duplicates until the middle Of
August This undoubtedly did away with a part
Of the abuse for tho German buyers no longer
found It easy to copy their French purchases in
time to sell them to the visiting Americans. What
are termed model makers firms that make up
dressmakers and foreign shops; that IS. they do no
retail trade at all. and, naturally, they must make
their season at a time when the buyers be here
They expect to have their spring models ready on
February /. and their winter view by Au-
gust l. but this system has not worked as well for
the high priced dressmakers here, who rely largely
for their profits their private customers in
America and England.
METHODS OF FOREIGN BUYERS.
Dressmakers are always most anxious to the
models produced by such places Pacqun' s.
Doucets and other establishments OF tho same or
der and to do they have been forced to buy
few dresses Of them. In many cases dressmakers
have been accustomed have the gowns fitted to
their own figures. and thus get them home with
out paying duty. The complaint has been that in
most cases tho dressmakers have bought only one
gown at each place and have carried away in
their memory n dozen other designs which they
have reproduced later in their own establishments
and labelled. truthfuy. as Paris models.
II has also been said that often the saleswomen
or interpreters in these places. having some knowl-
edge Of drawing. have furnished for a small price
rough sketches Of many Of the models. Then. too
private customers have become incensed at finding
New-York and Chicago flooded with the same
models they had bought IN Paris and sometimes
sold 1T prices less than they had paid. Therefore,
dressmakers decided that what they lost in refus-
ing TO sell foreign buyers would he made up
over and over again by keeping their designs
clusvely for the benefit OF their private clients.
Early this month the Tribune representative
made a tour OF the leading dressmakng establish
ments with American woman who wished TO buy
n part of her autumn and winter wardrobe early.
before the places crowded. She was well
known a good client in several OF the places
visited. but the reply was always tho same. II she