The Press., 1904-03-03
A GLIMPSE OF TOKYO
SCENES IN THE SCARED CAPITAL
OF EASTERN JAPAN.

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A Widespread Medley of Unpleasant
Sights, doors and SOumds-gOme of
the TncOnveniences That Beset the
Foreigner In shopping.
Tokyo, the vast sprawling capital of
eastern Japan. a comparatively young
city, is aged with the scars of fire, of
earthquake and of war. This great
city, once of 100000 inhabitants,
spread over what is popularity estimat-
ed as a hundred square miles, seems
still to cover in the shadow of the for
tress of the great Iyeyasu.
For the American tourist unprepared
for the real orient and knowing Japan
only through her art products and the
few pen pictures of the artist rhapso-
dists who have embarrassed her with
their praises Tokyo is rare purgative.
Except for the stately and disnified
tombs of the shOguns and the fine Off
cial grounds and buildings Of the capt.
tai he finds hfs senses assaulted on every
side by unpleasant sights. odors and
sounds. e, a..
Approaching Tokyo by train from Yo-
kolIama, he. sees the green Lillsides PIN
carded with enormous advertisements.
Arrived in the city, he finds the poster
and billboard everywhere monstrous
and fragrant. Stagnant sewers lie along
the roadside, and foul odors arise from
the payements.. constantly wet down
by the houseLolders. Porters and store.
boz rx-i%G Of hat ~.
scant skirt jostle, shout and s.are.
and perhaps whole family may be-
seen in doorway ready for the tub.
from which you see the steam arising.
A street called the Ginga is the state
street of Tokyo, and here in the even
ing you may find an infinity of wares
spread out upon the walk, which is one
of the few real sidewalks in Japan.
Most OF these wares, however, are a
vast inconsequential array of cheap
trifes, such as the enterprising mana
ger of an American five cent store
might gather together. There are. how
ever, number of somewhat pretcn-
tious stores to be seen by the persist
ent shopper. #
Shopping in, Tokyo. however. is at
tended by many Inconvenience. To be-
gin with, your rickshaw man knows no
English and nothing about the stores.
and the names and numbers of streets
are known only to the map makers.
Where street has a name it is likely
to belong only to the shady side and TO
run around the block instead of contin-
uing from the next corner. If, how
ever, you succeed i'll tinGing a store
your troubles have Just begun. The
proprietor SITS at the rear of the cstab-
1fshment, cross legged, before Il small
desk. By virtue of being in his own
store he has reached the summit of
earthly desire and cares nothing about
you. Perhaps if you wait some small
clerk of dozen years or less will come
to wait upon you and. seeing you are
Il foreigner, will charge you extra for
the few words of English he can mas
ter. ... .rs..-<.... s.t
If you are bold enough to leave your
rickshaw and wander about on foot you
will soon attract curious crowd, the
clatter of whose wooden geta upon the
flags will we'll nigh deafen you. at is a
good :. natured, well meaning crowd,
however, and will soon be scattered by
policeman. If there are any clerks
going your way they will address you
in the hope of learning few words of
English or inviting you to their stores.
There is no hostility or insult, only. Gu
riosity and good natured. childish
amusement. 4. a- s-..
Modesty Is an unknown quantity in
Japan, as one soon learns. If your rick
shaw mans two garments become damp
he is likely to change them before you.
and fellow travellers in the cars are
sure to change their clothes without
Difference to place or surroundings.
Men and women use the same tank at
the same time in the public baths with
out thought of improperly.
The streets of a japanese city are full
Of interesting sights and seem never
twice the same. Every store and every
attention for moment. In a land
where nearly all wares are hand made
every article has some individuality
and one is led on with the hope Of find
ing something better than the rest.
Heavy loads are carried through the
streets on the backs of men and wom-
en-. on horses and on two wheeled carts
The carts are drawn by bulls or shag-
gy northern stations and are guided by
the driver. who walks with the pole.
The. burdens carried by women and
children are remarkable. All over ia
pan the heaviest work is done by wom-
en-. the bricks and masonry for the new
museum and government buildings be-
ing SO transported in the heat of mid
summer. Children carry their brothers
and sisters strapped to their backs and
haul great loads on heavy carts. The
life of the laboring classes seems very
arduous. and they are remarkably pa
tient and Industrious Throughout city
and country every one seems to be hard
at work. 49,.
The death rate of Tokyo is very high.
The custom of carrying very young
children strapped on the back with
their heads unprotected from the sun
leads to thousands of cases of brain fe-
yer and blindness. majority of the
children bear the marks of skin dis
eases. ahd their heals are often nau-
seating to behold The water used in
the city is suspicious. and travellers
drink spring water or tea. The general
Practice Of rubbing certain wooden i'm
ages on the temples to secure freedom
from various forms of disease undoubt-
eddy assists the spread of various dis
orders.-Chicago ,hronicle.
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