The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-02-19

signed for their elders, but. in spite of this
fact, they require to be watched and what
ever the characteristic of the season it has
its influence in the fr0eks Of all ages. This
spring we are all broad OF shoulder and the
younger contingent give evidence thereof.
Also we are wearing full skirts and big
sleeves and while the children's are some
what less aggressive they follow along the
line. Happily. what often is trying TO the
grown-up is picturesque on the child and
many of the frocks of spring are charm
ing in the fullest sense of the word. Ber-
thas, deep capes. shirrings and tucks suit
Uniformed figures well. often far better than
they do those that are mature, and these
features make the essential ones of the lat
est designs.
The older girls, those from twelve to six
teen. after which time they are interested
in woman's fashions, copy their elders more
closely than do the younger ones. but still,
if really well dressed, wear far simpler gar
ments than Go their mothers or elder sis
ters. Jacket suits are correct at fourteen
and are shown in a variety of suitable de-
signs that are really charming. Etons and
blOuses both being Inherently youthful, let
the Older folk claim them as they will, are
much liked and much seen, but there are
also some little coats that are essentially
girlish at the same time that they are
smart. What might be called modified Nor
folks are charming and are much liked. AS
pretty q suit as any / have seen mcluueS
one such and is made of mixed tan cheviot
with threads Of green. The coat shows two
applied box plaits at each front and each
side of the back with a shaped yoke that is
cut to form Il small battlement over eacn
plait and two scallops over each shoulder
Tha+ dram ntrDr tho clnnNnC and give me Ge-
sired broad effect. The sleeves are full and
finished with cuffs of green velvet that
match the yoke, while at the neck is a fiat
collar of velvet. At the waist Is the cnar-
acteTistic belt. and the buttons are gold
knobs that give a military touch. The ac-
complaining skirt is quite novel and is
cut in nine cores with Il deep inverted plat
in the center of each which is finished at
the top with a shaped and stitched piece
that harmonizes witt the yoke. The entire
suit is essentially stylish and effective yet
absolutely simple and girlish, while the
coat marks a distinct feature of spring.
1t is a long time since velvet
have been common, u long time since we
have seen collars ana cuffs OF the material,
but this winter brought the revival and this
coming spring will see such finish quite
freely used.
THE ETON JACKET AGAIN.
Blouse Etons and Elton jackets are charm
ing and are to be general for the better
suits. They are broad as to shoulder and
include full sleeves, as a safe general rule.
The blOuses are made with capes and cape
yokes of all sorts, the jackets with yokes;
the former show plain and full girdles and
narrow belts, all three, just as do those
of the grown folk, but as l have already
stated, material and treatment must be
kept simple. Younger girls wear coats. and
indeed. many mothers prefer them for the
big girls as well. but, as has truly been
said, the Contemporaries girl of to-day
IS often a young gianteSS and when Such
is the case she must be dressed as suits
her size. Coats are i'm half and three-quar-
ter length and show no marked departure
from winter styles; almost uniformly they
show capes of some sort and sleeves are
either in bell shape or full gathered into
cuffs. Collars are all fiat and stoles re-
tain all their favor. For occasions of dress
broadclOth in pastel green, white and pale
blue with touches of white on color, color
on white is much liked. but for general
service cheviot is not to be outranked.
FrOckS for indoor wear are really faScin-
ating at all ages. Those made with guimpeS
are always charming and girlish and have
lost none of their prestige. Up to the age
of twelve they are general and are worn by
girls of fourteen. whose size allows, but ii
is my function to chronicle what is new
in the world of fashion rather than 10 dwell
upon the favorites of all time. The big
cape collars and the dropping berthas suit
the girls to a nicely, while tucks and shir-
rings are eminently appropriate.
A most attractive afternoon dress for a
girl of fourteen or Sixten is made of blue
linen embroidered with white in French
style. The skirt is laid in inverted plaits at
each seam and shows embroidered designs
a simple, blouse, with full sleeves and
straight cuffs, is arranged a cape collar
that falls over the arms midway to the
elbows and which is cut in deep shaped
scallops that show a b%uttonholed edge with
raised circles and ovals above tina vary in
size from "a half to an inch in length and
which are arranged to form a design.
Daintier dresses, those designed for party
and for graduation wear, carry out the
same general idea, but are made of or
candle, poiu rt and fine lawn. A most
charming o. white organdie with a
circular fc / Il circular bertha. both
Of which al. 2sed entirely of alternat-
ing strips OF s onciennes insertion and the
material, the latter embroidered with
French knots. The skirt is simply gathered
at the belt and the waist is a blouse with
an unlined yoke of fine tucking and big
white Liberty ribbon that is tied in long
bows at the belt and again in bow knots
at the ends. The big capes or cape collars
i'm the thin materials are really fascinating
give a transparent effect. A favorite finish
is a lace frill, and wonderfully graceful il
is: A quite new trimming is puffings of soft
silk. and a really lovely point d'espri1
shows the edge of the yoke cut in scallops
on each a medallion of lace and outlined
with these puffings, below which is a fall o.
lace. while the skirt is made with a gath
cred fiOunce on which are medallions out
lined with the puffings. while above it arr
three puffs set their own width apart.
THE MILITARY IDEA.
Palmer dresses show berthas or drol
yokes and are made of cashmere, yelling
challie and the like, as also Of linen an,
all the lovely washable fabrics of the sea
son. The military idea is apparent at ever.
turn. Among the latest shirtwaists show
is one of the blue linen made with thre
box plaits at the front. a plain back an
shirt sleeves. over the central plat ar
two bands of white cotton hercules brai
and between these are buttonholes wit
brass buttons. Over each side plat is ar
ranged a little pocket with a flap that but
tons over, and both shoulder seams an
cuffs are banded with braid. Or the cuff
it is simply two straight strips, but owe
each shoulder the two are made to form
point at the neck. A pretty and a move
| idea is the use OF a white waist. in spence
style. with a big cape collar that matche
the skirt. One of the sort is rOSe-cOlOre
linen embroidered with white. while IN
waist is of fine sheer lawn, and numberles
others might be described. We are TO lIav
much color and many combinations of CO.
or. and for that reason remoGeling Is com
paratively a simple matter. Plisse bertha
of soft contrasting silk, with cuffs an
yoIes to match. are easily added TO an
waist, yet give an up-tO-date touch, an
many similar suggestions might be made
The younger girls are mort picturesque
perhaps, but not less simple and are to wea
the becoming berthas and yokes as we
as the bigger sisters. For every day occa
siOns. however. nothing * better than tn
sailor blouse with the many modification
thereof. The genuine sort with big collar