New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1904-09-21
Metz and Old |leexe.s.

Paris September 70.
The modes are considerably better defined than
they month ago. although a, t5st ,j1, 49,.
buying and selling Of so-called winter r,0,1sIz 80,
IN full swing The new modes really show rsv e,,-
prises II excludes the question ~ .la.vss -.
one should. for the changes IN this line have been
anticipated Tor months past. While dressmakers
and fashion magazines have been preaching gtz,+
sleeves women have Continues - - 49,,
with broad, loose cuffs, with the fuluesa srag-
ging about the wrists. Today the eieot sleeve or
one along similar lines broad AZ the sborl5.-.
and close on the forearm. is generally accented
ana II Is only question OF weeks when any
marked divergence from this style will look
curiously out OF date.
This question OF sleeves is IN itself sufficiently
radical change II street suit OF the last winter
Is expected to do duty again. Undoubtedly some
way will be found by which the coat sleeve non,,-
lar then can be changed into an up to date srvle
Some modish cloth gowns were made last vtnter
with sleeve close at the shoulders and increasing
IN straight lines to exaggerated width at the
"rlst' where 1t was lined with lace rufies. II Is
Impossible to conceive how sleeve Of this sort
could be remodelled to meet the present standard
Fortunately many tailored suits had a tacLst
sleeve consisting OF a single large DUFF falling
into a shaped cun-not so discouragfng a model 70
do over While the shaped cuff does not aupear
on many OF the new models. high. close cuff
meeting a little below the elbow the upper puff il
IN excellent form Although the pun dropping over
the elbow Is not as mOdish as the sleeve standing
out at the shoulder, the former is by no means
deuode. Another model in excellent style thar
might serve as a means for remodeUing a last
winters sleeve has single big puff falling into
shaped turned-up cuff which is placed half way
between the elbow and wrist and from under
which comes a close. tight cuff.
In skirts there no particular changes since
last winter All d-essy skirts are so full thar
small wire Is necessary 70 support them at the
hem, although women are probably. as far away
from the crinoline when this fashion was first
suggested some seasons ago Judging from the new
models. skirts to be sufficiently full at the
tops 70 broaden the hips. but il is doubtful if this
idea prevails to any extent in Paris. French
women are always anxious TO preserve what they
term the line and they will not tolerate a full
ness that destroys the lines OF the figure
There viii undoubtedly be many skirts shirred and
pleated into the waist band. but. IL pIeated they
VIII be most carefully gored. and often stitched
for distance. There are some examples OF skirts
hung on yokes. the yoke often in a piecs with the
front breadth and there are gored skirts with
shaped hounces set on with the line Of attachment
covered by some form Of trimming.
Judging from the model gowns. skirts are to be
much trimmed. but here again It Is doubtful II
the Parisienne will agree with the dressmake-s-
Trimming was carried exaggerated point
last year, and at the very end Of the spring sea-
son some OF the full plain skirts made their ap-
pearance They were taken up by smart women.
and there is reason 70 believe that they will be
worn this winter. Such a skirt Is particularly
pretty in velvet veIveteen. and both these
fabrics are 70 be much worn
Among the new goods there is great deal OF
lainage, and probably woods VIII be more general
on the street than the cloths. Among the novel
ties is corded wool IN plain colors with
colored thread between the cords Cashmere IS 20
the front again, and is especially suitable for the