The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1904-02-13


biting winds, here in old Gotham, and are
shivering even in our furs. but the sun has
shone forth brilliantly for one or two days
and given us hepe of better things to come,
so that spring suits and summer gowns
have taken on fresh interest and enthusi-
asm grows apace Six weeks more is the
prediction of the grounding. who FASTENED
back to the warmth of his hole. but six
weeks, we argue. will soon slip by, and the
models shown are so tempting that buying
is eager. and, early as it is, am able to tell
you several things which. even so late as
at my last writing. had not become settled
facts.
We are to have Etons and blouse Etons
galore All the many women whom they
suit may rejoice with safety, for the fiat
has gone forth. the seal is set. There will
be other things also. and many loose and
half-fitted jackets will be seen, but the
jaunty little Elton coats are to take prom
inent place and both they and boleros of all
sorts may be looked for in number and in
variety. As a rule the handsomer Etons
show vest effects of soft sorts, and there
is tendency toward full sleeves Herewith,
but all kinds will be worn. Blouses are to
blouse less. il is rumored, and uniformly
there is the long shoulder line with the
seams joining the sleeves to the coats hid
den from view, but there all law comes to
end. The vests are narrow, extremely
So and are often just touched with gold,
but the least bit too much of this last
savors of vulgarity, and while in bits it
is essentially smart, il is to be handled with
discretion and care. Shoulders show treat
ment Of many sorts, but the long cut with
trimming over the seam is much liked and
eqaulet effects are seen by the score
most fascinating little coat that makes part
of the travelling costume of a pre-lenten
bride is made of real navy blue broadcIoth.
with trimming of black mOhair and tiny
gilt buttons overlaid with heavy tracery
or black, and shows vest not more than
two and half inches wide of white cloth
embroidered with white just touched with
gold. There is no collar and the vest ex-
tends round the neck, making a most eff
fective finish. Sleeves are the full ones we
have been accustomed to associate with
the blouse, finished with big wide cuffs and
frllls OF lace. The effect is smart i'm the
extreme and the fancy treatment makes the
full sleeves allowable, while the black braid
and touches of gold suggest the military
influence that has made itself felt the win
ter through without being aggressive in the
least.
A GOOD SKIRT STRIPE.
The skirt accompanying this coat is so
good and so simple that L think must tell
you of it at once, although had purposed
chatting of Jackets and their vagaries first
1t is in walking length, that is, Just escapes
the ground, and is laid in long vertical
plaits. At front and back these join in a
double box-plaited effect, while those at
the sides turn backward and all are
stitched to flounce depth where they are
left free TO provide graceful flare White
cloth banded or embroidered makes q favor
lite material for the wee vests and ALWAYS
is handsome, but wide braids also are used
and every opportunity for originality is af-
Ior9eL Some Few exacting critics are al
ready crying out against the full sleeves
with the Elton coats, and. in truth there is
a bit OF incongruity, but they are shown
only with the more fancy sort, and are so
much more practical and comfortable over
the fashionable waists that one is led TO
put the objection aside and to see only what
Is good. AT every turn one is met with
gold. Brilliant braids, handsome buttons
| really beautiful ornaments all are offered.
yet L say again beware. The fashion is
just one of those that is quite certain TO
be overdone and to be rendered common
| If not vulgar in a brief season. Touches
that act as bits of illumination always are
grows weary. but lavish display is garish
at best, and often becomes an offense
against good taste.
Skirts are all things, but show marked
1
| hips, and those of the more elaborate gowns
| are much trimmed with horizontal lines
/ Flounces of all sorts, bell-like and circular
/ as well as all shirred and tucked ones, are
! seen. frills without number and tucks and
i rucheS of all widths and in all possible COM
binations. As is usual with Dame Fashion,
| the tall and the slender have been borne
| in mind, all others overlooked, and much
/ care and discretion needs to be exercised
i to bring about any good result Happily
| the skirts referred TO are uniformly long
| Wisdom has so far conquered as to have
\ caused all of walking length to show only
| perpendicular lines or bands of some in
/ conspicuous sort. Plaits and shrrings are
| general, but are used in many novel ways
/ a most effective skirt in crepe de Chine
| combines box plaits and tucks and one sees
| many similar things. In the case Of the
! gown referred to there is the plain narrow
| front. that is almost general, with box
| plat at each side; beyond these plaits are
| groups Of narrow tucks, then plaits and al
| ternating tucks and plaits until two of the
| latter meet at the back, all being stitched
| fiat to the depth of hip yoke, then allowed
| to fall free and form soft folds. Another
| seen in brown chiffon cloth, but well suited
| to all soft and pliable materials, is made