The San Francisco call., 1904-03-04
INSTRUCTIVE CTUDIEnS
By INOIEDzAMgslN AND
IOMEN

Mongoi ponies they use mere are not
trained to stand for shoeing and so an
elaborate apparatus of heavy beams
is needed which very much resembles
the old method of shoeing oxen in this
country. The horse is driven between
four upright posts then two broad
canvas bands are passed under him
so that he can be raised half off from
the ground. While thus partially
suspended his feet are tied to the posts
and his head securely fastened, so
that he can be shod in safety. ;T
The Cossack colonel at Telling and
chief of the Manchurian telegraph
lines, Mr.. Ghenche, so arranged things
for us that we could have the COM
pany Of two of their guards as long
as we followed the line of uncomplet-
ed Chinese Eastern Railroad, where
they could relay from station to sta
ton. We found these Cossacks of the
Don who acted as our guards very
thoughtful of our wants. They would
drive ahead and pick out the best road
for our Chinese carts, which is an i'm
portant matter, for the roads are ex-
tremely indefinite, varying in width
from six feet to one-half mile. They
hOulQ also QIlNe OIL lIlS OOSSs WHICH ID
no small service, and keep the beggars
at a respectful distance. At one time
we saw them in their element A
number of Chinese bandits attacked
a baggage train just ahead of US.
which was guarded by four Cossacks.
At first the Cossacks' horses were
stampeded by the sudden, unexpected
attack, but reinforced by our two
guards, they fixed bayonets. and by
charging the Chinese easily routed
them.
For all these services they did not
expect fees. and in fact fatty refused
them. One of our guards even went
so far as to treat us. After such at
tentions as these we were totally un-
prepared for the demands for fees
which the Chinese guards, whom we
had later, made on us. These latter
were absolutely useless as guards or
guides, and yet at the end of the day
calmly presented their bill as if they
had not been paid for their services
by the Government. The character of
the Chinese soldier and the Cossack
is reflected in their dress. One has
flowing robes and long fingernails.
blouse and trousers, with heavy knee
boots, and has calloused hands.
AT every camp we would take out
our map and show the Cossacks where
we came from and where we were go
ing Then we would point out the Don
River and read the names of some Of
the towns along there. This always
drew a crowd, and they would trace
the course by which they came from.
the rich valley of the Don to Odessa,
and from there by boat through the
Bosphorus and the Suez canal, around
India and UP to Port Arthur in Man
churia or the beautiful harbor of Vlad-
ivostok. They were certain that there
was no place in the world like the val
ley of the Don. And it surely is one
of the most fertile, prosperous and at
tractive sections in Russia.
Some OF their quarters were very in
teresting. and strongly reminded me
OF a typical American college boy S
room, but on a cheaper scale. Chromos,
Chinese wall pictures, groups ofecigar-
cite pictures, swords and guns were
profusely hung around on the walls.
over one of the old-fashioned pictures
of a naval battle a dirty towel was
carefully draped, while in the window
were some plants. Beds and chests
filled most of the room, so that chairs
were not needed. The generally con-
fused order and haphazard arrange
ment of things bespoke the lack of
woman's nursing" for none of these
Ccssacks had their families with them
However. in some of the more perm
anent quarters many of their families
are found.
A close inspection Of the small pict-
ures revealed the fact that they were
all celebrated American stage beauties
collected from packages of American
cigarettes. In a corner of the room
was the omnipresent accordion, which
furnished all kinds of music, from the
grand national hymn to the liveliest
kind of jigs for their clog dances.
Every one seems to be able to play the
accordion, yet they have their recog-
nized artists. who provide most of the
music. Many of their folk songs which
We heard were very effective. especially
as you cannot help but enter into the
enthusiasm of the singers.
On the shores of Lake BaikaI we met
several thousand of these Cossacks on
their way to Manchuria, and just ct
sunset regiment of 1900 men lined up
in front of precipitous cliff and rem
dered their evening chant Although
the line was overs200 yards long there
was no wavering in the time from one
end to the other and the effect was
sublime. After the evening chant the
men divided into general groups, the
smaller of which was gathered around
an accordion, which played for all kind
of dances. But the larger crowd gath
cred around a group of singers, who
rendered a number of folk songs, a style
Of music in which the Russian nation
is exceedingly rich. After one group
had. sung from twenty minutes to half
an hour another group would start and
sing about the same length of time.
Few of the songs were repeated, and
most of them formed sort Of round
with a large number of verses. ! have
never heard a college glee club sing in
better unison or with as good express