Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-15

royal velvet in dark olive green. Laid over
the front and sides of the brim is rich
novelty lace in old ivory white wrought in
figures of crushed strawberry color; from
the front around the right side sweeps
very full green ostrich plume mounted with
tufts of marabOut tips, and holding up the
brim at the left side is an ivory white plume
of ostrich and marabout tips
Models of Large Hats,
A remarkable large hat, with tall slightly
tapering crown and capricious brim, Is COW
cred concentrically from the middle of the
top of the crown to the edge of the brim,
with inch-wide hemmed ruff1es, cut from
ombre ottoman ribbon nine inches wide, In
pale moss green shot with royal blue, and
faced with shirred yacht blue velvet. AT
the left of the front of the crown, set up
on their edges and posed back to back are
two large rosettes made of the ribbon ruff
f1es, these rosettes holding a full and long
cocks plume in natural metallic green, the
plume sweeping back over the brim
A charming large hat for evening wear.
with tall cadets cap CROWN followed out
slightly on the top, and having a brim
widened and rolled high att the left side
and narrowed and depressed at the back,
is covered smoothly with MORE antique
silk in rose pink, large cord finishing the
edge of the brim. Three rows of large mock
pearl beads encircle the crown at its base;
posed at the left of the front of the crown
is great rosette of white tulle set with
large pearl cabOchOn, the rOSette NOlulnS d
full pink ostrich plume, which sweeps back
ward, and a smaller rosette set with pearl
cabochon nestles under the brim at the left
side.
Picture Effects.
Varying the models quoted, with distinct
ly tall crowns and smooth coverings, Is
large dress hat with medium wide and
medium tall bell crown and capricious
brim narrowed and depressed at the back,
covered effectively with lattice work Tor
interlacing) formed of narrow bands Of
folded bias plain velvets, in tobacco and
pale browns. Beginning in the center or
the crown with cabochon the size OF "a
silver half-dollar, the inner lines OF TINS
network are of the dark brown, and the
bordering lines, both on the crown and the
brm, are of the pale tone of velvet. and,
overlapping the edge, the network faces
the brm. Posed at the left of the front OF
the crown are three large pompons of slen-
der cocks feathers of pale ecru tint
iecked with tobacco brown, and two but
terfy bows of the dark brown velvet hit
the brim at the left side.
In very delightful collection Of models
was shown a large dress hat with tall.
slightly tapering square crown, covered
with passementerie of gold tinsel set with
small rhine crystals, and brim of moss
green French felt with cut edge. An inch
within the edge a shirred band OF moss
green velvet, two inches wide, faces the
brim; two butterfly bows made of a ribbon
of passementerie lift the brim at the left
side and over the right side, posed beside
the crown. droop two full demi-long curled
ostrich tips in a darker tone of moss green.
Fancy Shapes.
Among the fancy hats many are woven of
thick chenille, the coloring chosen being
usually rich They are at their best in deep
claret and maroon, purple-blue and plum
shades. A large fiat-crowned type and
medium-sized hat, the brfm rolled so as to
suggest trlcorne, are both very suitable Tor
chenille. The trimming for the former may
consist of row CT roses of the same color,
set against the upturned brim, while for
the latter wide ribbons may be chosen for
the outside trimming, and Dig punch OF
roses for the bandeau underneath, ultlng II
slightly to one side.
Shapes crowned with plumage are always
more or less of a fanciful character. One
may generally expect to see certain num-
her among autumnal novelties, but those
shown this year are certainly an improve
ment on former productions. A picture hat
in light peacock-blue plumage particularly
took my fancy. The feathers were not quite
fat but curled slightly, so as to form low
pile like that on melusine felt. Round the
high crown was arranged sort of standup
fringe of the blue and gold strands sur
rounding the tail feathers Of the peacock,
emerging from folded band Of glace velvet
OF the same tone. More simple, but very
pretty too, is big toque, the crown of
which is covered with white plumage, and
the rolled brim by a quantity of soft black
cCcks' feathers sweeping back from the
front on either side.
Favored Colors.
Brown continues to be one of the most
favored colors, but 1t is now shown in a
greater variety Of shades. One Of these
Is dark tea-leaf green-brown that did
not figure on the lists given for the sea-
son. 1t is a beautiful dark winter color,
and particularly effective in taupe felts,
and combines beautifully with dark
golden tints or with light green. In
broad brimmed hat of this color all these
are combined in the long paradise tail
that was its chief decoration, which is
shaded off from the initial color to light
golden brown melting into almond green
at the tips.
Green, which did not promise so well at
the beginning or the season, has come
suddenly to the fores but always in dull
shades-deep brownish moss greens, run
ming from dark to Comparatively light.
This revival of green in an entirely diff
ferent class of shades from those worn
last winter is very significant, especially
as sucH greens harmonic beautifully
with all browns and dulF golden hues.
Shot with pink 1t is very effective.
Moss Green and Purple Red.
Not quite so much to my liking is the
marriage of moss green with deep pur-
plish red, yet 1t is attempted by no less an
authority-the materials being velvet and
chenille braid of the latter color and the
trimming low-toned moss green ostrich
tips and gauze aigrette. The chenille braid
is novelty and deserves special mention.
1t consists of balls of chenille, about the
size OF cherry, mounted close together
in single row. A bordering of this trim
ming eneircles the edge of the brim,
while three more rows Of 1t are inserted
between the closely shirred pufings of
velvet round the crown
As rule, l think prefer any sort of a
red hat trimmed with its own color. Hats
entirely carried out in dull moss green have