Lewiston evening teller. [volume] (Lewiston, Idaho) 1903-1911, 1904-02-20

most striking features Of the prevail
ing code of fashions is the comparative
freedom allowed in the exercise of in
dividual taste The tyrannical rigor
Of the code, which in former and more
primitive times. produced certain pro-
nounced and invariable types of dress
has given way TO a more liberal tend
ency which makes broad concessions
and has a strong tendency to promote
the development of individuality, artis-
tic as we'll as otherwise. The general
rules which limit or curb extravagances
of originality are but few in number
and, besides that. unusually flexible
and elastic According to an authority
on fashions the principal rules make
the following demands: For walking
suits short round skirts are the proper
thing; handsome costumes and gowns
may have longer and fuller skirts; the
shoulder lines are exaggerated in
length and the sleeves are invariably
big: there is considerable liberty al
lowed in the length of the trotteuse
skirt which may just come down to the
ground. or may end two inches above
it; n similar liberty is permitted as re-
CARDS the fullness of the skirts; to suit
the requirements of the figure the full
ness may begin at the waist line, be-
low the hip curve or even above the
knees. The greatest variety. however.
is allowed in the sleeves. A long line
neck to elbow seems to be the general
OH 1t,t haunnd "a ie
any shape no matter how original and
peculiar. that is not permissible.
Tailor gowns have entered upon a
new era. They do not depend so much
upon padding, but seek to produce
pleasing effects by notifications in
their cut. These dresses have no long
err the stiff and wooden appearance
which used to be so characteristic of
them. The skirts hang loose from their
lining and can be made long enough to
touch the ground. as ii is no longer
difficult TO raise the skirts. Where the
figure is good and great length of the
skirt Is not a necessity, the skirts do
not quite reach the ground.
Undoubtedly the most favorite ma
terials for street wear this winter were
Velvets and eorduroys. while zibelines
did pot seem to be much in demand
at least not as much MS the trade had
expected. Some exceedingly smart and
pretty street suits We're OF brown cor
duroy. the skirt short, and fiaring at
the bottom seams. with an under plat
and long coat With those skirts
were worn white bodices of crepe. lace.
flannel and soft mulls and various
kinds of furs, preferably mink. ermne
or sable. With that costume brown
hats of long haired beaver and orna-
mented with a white feather or flower
were worn and made decidedly pref
ty effect
The popularity of jet for dress or
namentation Is unusually great at the
present time and II Is predicted that
that pretty material will be even more
extensively used this spring than IL was
used In the winter. Spangles, round.
oval or in fancy shapes, are also used
on smart gowns and promise to become
more popular than ever this spring.
Something entirely new is a material
called Llama thread, which IL really n
sort of fine gold thread. 1t is too bright
to be used I'm combination with any
other trimming. but 1t can be used
effectively by itself for embroidering
delicate patterns on any material. As
a rule the embroidering Is not done di-
rect, however, but on netting which is
afterwards cut out and appliqued upon
the material to be ornamented.
ne
trimmed with ermine or swansdown
and having wide sleeves make exceed
ingly pretty evening or party wraps
for girls. Others, that are more prac-
teal because they win give better
service. are long coats of some soft ma :
terial in white or scarlet, having a silk
lined hood
Some unusually handsome and deli
cate reception gowns are shown in the
shops just now. Champagne tinted
crepe de chine is one of the favorite
materials. II is sometimes worn over
pink sometimes over darker shade,
approaching biscuit. Many are made
with lace yokes that extend from the
throat to the bust. draping over the
point of the shoulder. There they are
frequently supplemented by n fringe
which gives them a certain cape effect
The skirts rest Well on the ground and
are often tucked and ornamented with
lace insertions.
Never before have the shops dis
played as rich and beautiful specimens
OF embroidered muslins as are shown
now for spring wear One, particularly
handsome was of the finest French
hand embroiderey The skirt plated
around the waist was of solid embroid-
cry to within fifteen inches of the bot
tom and had rufies of the finest valen-
ciennes lace. The bodice was entirely
of the embroidery and the sleeves had
the fashionable long shoulder effect.
Under the plated pieces OF embroidery
which fell over the shoulders were ruff
fies of Valencinnes which composed
the elbow sleeves. A tie of soft. pale
blue ribbon went around the neck