Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-10-22

PARIS. October s. 1904.
The queen of cities, Paris, is taking on it's
usual animation and gayety. Carriages
and motor cars whirl by in rapid success
sion. conveying elegantes to the shops in
the Rue Rivoli and Rue de la Paix, and
everywhere there is evidence that the gay
capital has come into its own again and
that the season is about ''on." One is glad
to be at home once more. and the shop
keepers and walters are overtoyed to
familiar faces and to feel that life for them
has begun again. The coutureres are
ready for the grande re'entree and are GER
tanly putting forth every effort to please
my lady.
a cynical male critic has said, IF the
proper study of mankind is man, the proper
study of womanknd is dress" and by
dress | suppose he means vanity, which is
the masculine Interpretation Of this fem-
nine besetting sin. But the question is still
an open one as to whether dress is vanity
or an eternal sense of the fitness of things
that Is part of the inheritance of every
woman And If she did not have this fac
ulty of making herself attractive what a
hue and cry there would be in another di-
rection. for If beauty is only skin deep ac-
tudl. neElectful ugliness, which a little
study of the laws of dress will overcome in
must cases, strikes INTO the D0ne.
Every woman is expected to do her sar-
torill duty. and the daily question that con-
fronts her is how she is to come up to re-
Quirements and meet the Increasing rates
and taxes and prohibitive prices of clothes
without having to resort to the expedent
OF breaking the bank at Monte Carlo. Let
me say that one round of the smart dress
making establishments has reduced me to
this low moral tone. They simply bubble
over with perfectly exquisite things that
one could be such a dreame in and can't
Just on account of a trifiing thousand or
so. l visited the world-famed house of
Worth, where some of the most beautiful
toilets ever created pass and repass over
the polished boards of his handsome
sparsely furnished rooms. and found that
this master has smiled upon the three-quar-
ter coat for walking and outdoor wear
There is infinite variety in a coat cut on
these lines which may have a Russian
blouse effect in front. with the long basque
or a stunning vest of leather or embroid-
cred cloth. OF course, the coat of severe
three-quarter genre buttons tightly to the
waist and has a plain little inset collar of
velvet and leg-of-mutton sleeves. For Wis
ting and afternoon DOMINIC there is the
Louis jacket, which is as frivolous a little
creation as one can wish, and the directoire
coat. despite its stern and rigid cut is help
ed out with smart rutfieS and jabotS of lace
Short boleros are in the minority and are
only made for those to whom the long
basque is debarred by reason of-wel, shall
l say ply limitations?"
Close-Fitting Coats.
The dainty figure is the desire of fash
ions heart just now, which point of beauty
is emphasized by the new close-fitting
coats and bodces. This style really de-
mands a straight back, curving well in at
the waist, and the waist itself must be of
the right length and width. With these
requirements goes the rounded bust Some
mondaines are wondering if there are
enough perfect or at least pretty figures to
make this fashion popular.
My answer to this would be. yes" Art
is resourceful, and. besides, figure training
Is rampant in the culture world Thanks
to athletics gone at in an intelligent way
lately there are more well-set-up women
than there were a few years ago.
A Stunning Model
There WAS stunning model in purple
cloth with a three-quarter coat cut away at
the waist over a front of laee and lawn
and finished with two long tails. The coat
was deliberately frogged with tube braid
of the same color. This coat boosted a
soft green satin sash with long tasseled
ends. The wide, bel-shaped sleeves were
slashed up over undersleeves of lace and