davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Waterbury evening Democrat., 1904-06-01
JAooBsoN's CLEVER GAME.

T. p. jacobson OF New Haven. who
has competed in the last two six-day
races with Ted Newkirk as n partner.
worked clever game on the back
markers and scratch men In the tive
mile professional handicap mt Walls,
burg track Monday. Jacobson had re-
ceived 325 yards handicap, and after
a couple Of laps had been ridden 1t was
seen that Jacobson, Caldwell and J..
Frank Calvin were gaining on the
short markers.
Jacobson dropped the others and
sprinted for almost two laps, catching
the short markers after riding mile
and d quarter altogether The short
mark riders chased the limit men in
earnest. and the field punched Mt 2A
miles. with Jacobson a full lap in the
lead All efforts to shake him were
frnitless. and he annexed sixteen Of
the special lap prizes In addition to the
race.
Waterbury evening Democrat., 1904-06-01
HUDSON RIVER LEAGUE.
AMERICAN ASSOCIATION

At Observation-Disclosures 3,
udson 1.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-16
Vivid BriIIiance of
This Years Gloves

"A pair Of gloves for every gown
and half dozen extra pairs in neutral
tones" is this years motto for the
up-to-date woman For every fabric
woven in the seasons fashionable
tints, glovemakers have dyed kid to
match. Sometimes the shopper finds
herself beWildered, as in the case of
mixed fabric, where the gloves come
to match both the background and the
inquire. For instance. a new French
Deaton suiting shows a parrot-green
SILK dot on dull brown ground, and
the glovemaker offers both the brown
and the green tint in kid. AS a rule,
the well-dressed woman selects the
more quiet color, leaving the vivid
tones such as green. orange, rose or
sapphire-b blue, to her sister who likes
startling effects. However, with the
new. striking tints. such as burnt to-
mato, onion brown and the peculiar
amethyst standings, the self-tone
gloves must be employed, as no other
coloring seems to tone we'll with the
suiting.
There seems to be no hard and fast
rule in the matter of length for street
gloves. American manufacturers are
oitering both one and tWo-button
gloves, and from Paris come quanti-
ties of the three button length. The
one-button glove can be worn only
when the dress and coat sleeve are
very long. Neither Foster hooks nor
clasps appear on the smartest gloves
and large pearl buttons are used in
stead.
The athletic girl clings to natural
toned chamois for early fall wear with
her jersey or golf vest, and later will
employ the heavy, knit glove, which
this mill in, oil ha
lar tones for suitings and jerseys. The
tailored maid is now wearing goat
skin or mocha, but her favorite win
ter glove will be the reindeer kid.
She does not permit the top of her
glove to turn back as her brother
still does. but she buttons it snugly
around her wrist
In evening gloves the 16-button
length has almost supplanted the 81
button mousquetaire, partly because
elbow sleeves are in favor, and partly
because Dame Fashion has decreed
that for a space between the short,
puffed sleeve or jeWeled epaulet effect
and the end of a glove, tempting
glimpse of marble-White or dimpling
pink flesh may be seen this winter.
The white gloves for evening wear
have rival in pale evening shades to
match the glittering silks and delicate
diaphanOus weaves. Pale yellow will
be much worn with white, as we'll as
yellow evening gowns, and a new white
evening glove shows lining of deli
cate silk to match the frock, and even
the deeper shades, such as American
beauty red, burnt orange and gay
plaids. These gloves are presumably
for theater wear. and will do away
with the muff source of annoyance
in the playhouse. For evening wear,
black glace has entirely supplanted
the more supple sued, which is rather
unfortunate for the woman with large
hands or stout arms, and very few
white suede gloves are being sold.
The woman whose hands perspire
should avoid the pale-tinted evening
gloves and cling to white, as the deli
cate colorings fade in the hands OF
even the most expert cleaners.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-16

soft, sage-lilxe tint is trimmed with a
deep chenille lace, i'm which, at inter
walls, the rich blue family shows. The
deep taffeta girdle is in two shades of
the sapphire, and the lower portion of
the sleeves shows tiny outstanding ruff
hes of oyster-white lace.
The colors of the dressier cloth
gowns are in themselves most beauti-
full, many shades of rose and dull pink
being treated with passementeries in
several OF the same tints.
With other cloth gowns the new
highly finished velvets are sometimes
so deliberately combined as to divide
the costume into two parts. Upon
the cloth bodice are bretelles, a deep
girdle, sleeve puffs and rosettes of the
velvet the upper part of the circular
skirt is of cloth, and deep velvet
aounoe, oddly applied, forms the
lower portion.
The Trimming of Dressy FrOcks.
The manipulation Of the gown ma
terial for the trimming Of dressy
frocks Is a very interesting feature or
the seasons styles. Innumerable
quaint effects are accomplished
through the scissors and needle alone.
and If pains are taken the result is
eminently gratifying. The little
doubled and gathered rosettes, held
down with a contrasting button of
some sort, are delightful decorations
for the front of "A bodice when used In
limited numbers. They and the puff
ing, put on IN straight and fancy Ways.
shirrings over cords and bound frills.
likewise open way to elegance with
out great cost, so that the dressy
frock may I'm the end be OF reasonable
expense. In fact. II Is the plain cos
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-16

embroidered heavily in gold thread
and made with a Louis XIV coat. to
which gold bullion ornaments give
a military air.
American beauty red velvet, com
bined with a certain tone of green.
will furnish a startling color combina-
ton much affected by women who
can carry off dashing costumes.
A Gown of Peachy Pink.
Next to the onion and putty oolored
cloths, a peachy pink leads in paIa
tints for evening gowns suitable TOR
theater or restaurant wear. This tint
demands a perfect complexion in its
wearer, but is exquisite under electric
or gas light. A gown from satin fin
ished cloth of this color is as supple as
silk and made on ornate lines. The
skirt is shirred around the hips and
falls in straight breadths, after tine
directoire pattern. Tucks in vary
ing widths appear just above and he
low the knees, and the only flare pos
sible is secured through the ruff1ed
stiffened drop-skirt of silk in self-tone
The bodice has a simulated bolero
of shirred cloth, meeting over a yoke
and vest of lace, heavily embroidered
in silk tones, fading into the pink Of
the CLOTH and finished with a bertha of
lace to match the all-oVer. The sleeves
are built from a succession of alternat-
ing cloth and lace puffs, overlaid with
embroidery to match, and tapering to
tight-htting shirred effect at the wrist.
Marie AntOinette styles.
Marie Antoinette styles are show
ing their influence in evening wraps.
A striking notable example is of q
supple French broadcloth in putty
color, combined with guipure lace,
outlined by shaped pleats of the cloth.
The skirt of the cloak is cut apron
FASHION, with circular finish at the
bottom. 1t is attached like an apron
also to the short yoke, which is hid
den by a pointed shawl collar built
from cloth pleats and lace. The fast
ening is a big bow of pompadour rib
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-16
By the Sleeve Is Gown Judged
To Be of This Seasons Vintage
Puff Shoulder Been
Shortened.

tune which is by far the most costly
this season, for plainness requires the
handsomest textures and the most
correct cut and make, all of which can
be done only by high-priced fingers.
Then, with the fussy toilettes, charm
ing effects can be gained by contrasts
of color, which is a way of using up
bits of odd material, and by putting
several sorts of lace together in a
yoke and cuffs. For example, pale
pink silk bodice has a lace yoke ap-
piled with batiste medallions and
trimmings of faint mauve velvet
Mauve is very fashionable color this
season, but it is mainly used on other
colors, and in the way of light trim
mings-in delicate velvet rolls, such
as headings for lace bodice frills, for
the centers of rosettes, etc.
Gown of Blue POpIin.
A pale blue poplin gown which will
this winter showed bias skirt frills,
quantity bound with violet panne. The
taffeta lining was also velvet, and the
hat to be worn with the costume was
of blue felt, with "A violet crown band
and paradise plume.
1t is quite an extravagant fad TO
have the hat for these elaborate
gowns match exactly in color, and ii
this can be attained only by using the
gown material, the scheme is none the
less fine. Several cloth gowns velvet
trimmed and turned out by first-class
makers, have brim or toque-shaped
hats in the same materials. But they
are made superb with ostrich feathers
and jeweled ornaments, or else a little
cloth and velvet toque will have a
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-16
for Buttons?
THAT'S the Latest

Gaudy is the one word which will
describe adequately the buttons of the
present season. They flash and CLEAN
and fiaunt myriad colors into the shop
per's eyes, and bewilder her even more
than do the color combinations in
millinery.
Above all things the button of 1904
05 is ornamental rather than useful. 1t
is employed to give a finishing touch
to an outdoor garment, or to relieve
the suggestion of sombreness in a
house gown, or to trim, like sequlns
or embroidery the girdles and stocks
of the hour.
Extravagances in the button line
show jeweled effects. Buttons COM
posed entirely of rhinestones vary in
diameter from a quarter of an inch to
an inch and a half. The center is gen
orally a good-sized rhinestone, with
slender spokes of small, fine rhine
stones radiating from it to an outer
circle of the small stones.
Again, the stones are set so close
together that there is neither mount
ing nor dress fabric to be seem be-
tween them. The rhinestones used
for these solid looking buttons are
generally very fine and cut with many
faces, so that the button sparkles no
matter how the light strikes it. Col
ored jewels are combined with rhine
stones exactly as they are used with
diamonds in brooches.
A striking button on marquis lines
shows large jewel, either turquoise
amethyst emerald, garnet, sapphire
topaz or OPAL overlaid with a filigree
effect in silver, set with rhinestones
The marquis is in turn encircled by
to the most vivid emeralds and sap
phires.
Another small button looks exactly
like a mans stud, and is a jewel of Q
quarter-inch in diameter, set in silver
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-16

high-shouldered look Of a French
fashion plate. In fact. except with
tea gowns, 1t is not the mode to be
dropping any more. The stylish figure
Is stiffy corseted and as slim and
tight and inhuman about the torso as
It is possible to be.
Must De of a Special style.
Every costume de style (the gown of
distinctive character) requires a spe
cial species Of sleeve, so since Diree-
toire styles are as much favored as
are the Louis models, the curt lines of
the Revolution are also suggested.
I'm eroyable" Is the fearsome title
given by one smart maker to the close
arm covering of a dashing skirted
coat. This Is fitted into the arm-hole
with scarcely a gather, but the coat
like cut grows more generous as 1t
dosoends. till the wrist, with its turn
ed-up, haring cuff, seems more than
ample. Here It is generally finished
with a lace rufffe. The sleeve in
many of the fancy Etons is in per-
feotly tight, coat-shape, with the top
widened by trimmed caps or a cap
effect cut in the shoulders. This goes
primly to the wrist, where an edge of
linen cuff is sometimes seen, for linen
cuffs and high linen collars are much
IN vogue.
Elbow Length tho Thing.
But 80 much are elbow length
sleeves admired that sometimes the
heaviest coats viii simulate gro
tesquely such cut. For example, a
gown in coo de roche cloth, In one Of
the brownest of these rich saffron
shades, has sleeves in immense double
puts. ending a few inches below the
elbow. Beyond this point the white
sleeves of the under bodice are all
lowed to show. Another gown. SINH
larry fashioned, was supplied with a
close forearm section, Stimulating an
under sleeve.
Sleeves are shortened and fore
shortened. and the moment sleeve
~ too long II loses in style. Loose
Eleeved Etons. ulsters, rain coats, OF
the latest cut. all halt short OF the
wrist to give a glimpse OF some under
coquetry. Still, so many are the
methods Of achieving effects that a
sleeve zoo long In a ready-made coat
IL no very great objection. Across the
forearm OF loose. wide-cuffcd models
three or more little tucks Will be
stitched, while close sleeve may be
tucked with ease under the cum.
The Pshed Elbow style.
With the puffsd elbow styles. the
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-16

in a pattern showing bouquets OF
roses, with arabeseques done in fine
black ribbon, connected by cobweb
patterns in fine silk.
The chiffon and silk skirts are fin
ished with a multitude of tiny ruffles
and, to secure the proper flare, the
middle ruffle of the white silk skirt
is stiffened with featherbone.
The corsage blouses slightly back
and front over a girdle built from
alternate rows of black velvet and
stain. The black lace sleeve is slashed
from the shoulder seam to elbow
to give the effect of buckles, edged
with quillings of very narrow ribbon.
Through this appears the shirred I'M
der-sleeve, which also peeps below a
plain. fun puff at the elbow. Point
de gaze lace furnishes the fiounce for
the wrist. The neck of the lace bodice
is cut in a deep circle i'm order to ex-
pose a yoke of finely shirred chiffon.
A Hat of Irish Point Lace.
With this costume is worn a hat Of
Irish point lace. edged with black
velvet and trimmed with black and
white plumes.
Much more striking and certainly
more trying is the gown recently
turned out for theater wear on the
order of a young matron who created
something OF a sensation by her cos
tunes at Newport the past summer.
II is of American beauty grace silk
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-16
By MARY DEAN.

forearm section is admired most when
long and the wrist portion is some
times cut TO fit over the hand like n
mitten.
The waist adjustments of coats and
gowns are as opposite as the styles in
sleeves The Directoire and Empire
coats, a number of which are seen,
hang as loosely at this point as night
dresses. The skirts of such coats are
heavily pleated into Jokes of various
novel cuts, and somehow many of the
loose styles are as becoming frequent
ly to the plump as to the lean. With
the clOse-fitted coats it is quite an
other thing. These call for figures
more than slim at the waist, hips and
bust, i'm order to effect the Willowy
grace these rather trying styles de-
mand.
For very slim figures some of the
fitted coats run to a cape-like arrange
ment of the shoulders. and huge and
novel buttons, two of which may be
placed al the waist line. French cloth
as smooth and glossy as satin is used
for the majority of these cOat-gowns,
with the elaborate garnitures of the
season. Never were passementeries,
embroideries and applications more
lavishly used and never were colors
more rich and subtle.
SNUFF Brown Kid Vests.
Odd contrasts are everywhere seen.
Snuff brown kid vests and trimmings
are the audaciouS features of semi
tailored frocks in any hue and with
old French green, which is a shade
as gray as green and a very modish
color. sapphire blue is combined fire.
quently. A reception gown in this
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-16

tiny rhinestones, and the button meas
ures nearly two inches in length.
These jewels will be matched with the
color of the gown; emerald on a green
dress. sapphire on blue, topaz on
brown, ETC., and they will be used in
all colors on black velvet.
Sometimes the arrangements of the
jewels is reversed. For instance, the
center will be a large, many-faced
rhinestone, from which radiate slen-
der rays or spirals of jewels. These
rays are built of wash gold, set with
jewels to match the color of the gown,
and topaz seems to be enjoying a par
tlcular vogue in combination with the
new brown cloths. Opal centers, with
petal effects in rhinestones, are used
for velvet dresses and for evening
cloaks in broadcloth.
Pearls, rhinestones and opals form
the centers of jet buttons, which vary
in size from a quarter of an inch to
an inch in diameter. These are not for
use on mourning gowns. as the jew
eled effect is not in good taste for in
dividuals presumably grieving.
new button, which is particularly
effective on evening coats in white or
pale colors, is of tinted horn, ornately
carved. The button is about two inches
IN diameter and exceedingly fiat. 1t
shows a wreath of fine leaves and
blooms, shading delicately from sea-
green to pink. From the lower part
of this circle rises an open flower, flat
and in full bloom, with a rhinestone
center to simulate a dewdrop. This
leaves quite a space between the circle
of leaves and blooms and the single
flower through which the cloth will
show.
For gowns which are trimmed in
Persian bands come enamel buttons
to match every imaginable shade of
embroidery. The button proper is of
wash gold, crossed and recrossed with
enameled bands, in which are repro
duced the most delicate colorings of
the Persian and Dresden effects.
Small buttons will be used in clus-
ters as trimming, and a most effective
example of this decoration is a low
pyramid of gold about quarter Of
an inch in diameter. The apex is cut
off and tiny jewel to match the
dress is set therein. Each of the four
sides shows a smaller pin-head jewel
These may be secured with Jewels
ranging in color from pearls and opals
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-16

bon. which, by the way, Will be much
used on evening wraps.
Another imported model shows
chiffon taffeta, cut on severe lines, and
depending entirely for its rich effect
on yoke and bertha. The pale yellow
taffeta is lined with a figured bro
cade, which tones into the solid color
and lends body to the garment. The
sleeves are cut dolman fashion and
are designed to hold without mussing
the ornate bodice sleeves beneath.
The beauty of the garment lies in
its yoke, which is of rose point lace,
inset with hand-embroidered galloons
and motifs. The yoke falls over the
shoulder like an epaulet and is finished
with a strap of sapphire colored vel
vet, which also appears in the collar.
Among the beautiful cloths shown
for evening cloaks is long, silky
camel's hair in white, cream, onion
and putty colors. The surface is
broken by discs in old-gold faded
colorings, which will appear also in
the embroidered bands or motifs en-
ployed with lace for trimming the
wrap.
An elaborate cloth for evening
gowns Is a silky French broadcloth,
showing at frequent but regular In
tervals a convention square or on
long pattern done in eyelet work OF
a contrasting color. The contrast.
however. is not violent, but suggests
the tone of the ground work.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-16


Without a doubt. the salient feature
OF the smart gown is the sleeve Re
cent changes in arm coverings are
very marked, and it would not be an
exaggeration to declare that some of
the old bishop sleeves are now put in
upside down. The heavy puff which
once hung at the wrist of all sleeves
for dressy toilettes is entirely set
aside. In loose enveloping wraps
whose sleeves must accommodate
others, the baggy puff above the cuff
may appear. But the character coat,
which is the thing of the hour, re-
Quires a sleeve either mannishly close
and long or one that is loose to eX-
aggeration at the upper portion and
suggesting an elbow length in its ar
rangement.
The sleeve most in demand for the
moment is made in two parts. The
fullness is caught up to effect, at the
upper arm. a complicated and becom-
ing putting, under which, little below
the elbow, energies a forearm piece
that is almost skin tight This glove
like section in the dressier toilette i $
elaborate trimmed, tiny ruffles of
fine lace between little twists of the
velvet trimming forming a notable
example. With such a sleeve the
bodice invariably is adjusted closely
front and back, and is in the pointed
form which requires no girdling. 1t Is
worn over the skirt, which is very full
at the bottom and shirred or pleated
at the top. and the wearer. if she is
very up-to-date, presents the stiff,
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-16
No New COrSetS
For New Styles

Dame fashion and the world femin-
inc are at loggerheads.
Subject of dispute-corsets
Madame La Mode has decreed the
small waist and the broad shoulder
Her humblest slave has turned like
the proverbial worm and thus dis
courses:
You may pad my shoulders and
sharpen the point on my basque or
girdle. but keep your hands Oft my
waist line. For. 10. these many years
have / been struggling to attain a
straight front, and now that | have
become amenable TO well-fitted COR
sets-and reason-you demand that
/ draw my waist line into a wasp-like
diameter and thus increase the APP
parent size of my abdomen. Go
hence, Madame La Mode, for [ know
that ] have attained the distinction
of a perfectly hygienic figure and
be distorted"
And that is why the most exclusive
corsetiers offer not "A single new
curve in the fashloning of stays.
IT'S no USE sighed one importer
I'VE have tried TO force the new waist
line Of fashionable women, but they
refuse to change. II would mean
much for us. II the feminine figure
could be altered from the straight
front effects now in vogue 10 the
old-fashioned small-waisted high
busted lines and curves. Every one
In our line would make money, as
the change would be so radical that
old stays would have to be thrown
away. But for once the American
woman stands pat. She knows what
she wants In stays and she will not
Yield an inch. As result the mod
lstes must do the figuring. They
must build gowns to simulate small
waists, broad shoulders and high
busts. But the corsets-alas, no
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-10-16
AND
THEATER GOWNS
BY KATHERINE ANDERSON.

At the first suggestion of the social
season the thoughts of womankind
turn lovingly towards restaurant and
theater gowns. This phase of life
seems to take a stronger hold ON the
American woman each year.
Well-dressed women draw a sharp
line between opera and theater gowns.
For the opera are reserved the most
resplendent of gowns, the most pro-
nounced of decollete bodices and the
finest of jewels. The theater gowns
proper may be of rich materials,
wrought after the most ornate of up
to-date handwork, but it is a tone
more sudden and conservative than
opera raiment. Only for special thea
trical events do fashionable women
don decollete gowns, though they are
seen in boxes worn by women to
whom the restaurant and the theater
afford sole opportunities for display
ing the wonders of their wardrobe
A hint of decollete effects, a Dutch
neck, or "V'' with diaphanous gowns,
or square neck filled in with SPAN
gled gauze or filmy lace, but not bare
shoulders and arms to be gazed at by
mere patrons of the drama.
High Neck IndispensabIe,
AS for the restaurant gown, a high
neck is absolutely indispensable, no
matter what the fabric Here the
smart Louis XIV coats will be worn.
displaying marvels of brocade, vel
vet and priceless laces. All-over lace.
spangled robes. silk and lightweight
clothes, such as chiffon cloth, aeolian
and voiles, buried in lace and en-
broideries, make m st satisfactory of
dinner gowns.
gown which will serve for the
restaurant dinner and later appear to
advantage in a theater box is of black
chantilly over white chiffon, which in
turn is shirred on a foundation of
white taffeta. The robe was wrought