New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1904-03-27

vent splashing-and the householders give pen
ny for the contents Of each jar. The city is below
The level Of the sea In the six miles Of the Cor
SIM Canal brackish water Gibbs and flows with
the tide. After three all but rainless months
pungenty damp air poured cut from every
opened church door. What must the damp of
the churches be just after the rainy season!
There's water less than a yard under our
feet here. said the guardian Of Theodor.c's
nausoleum, as We stood in the lower chamber
To Journey across the dead level Of The
marshes has the charm Of travels IN the Sahara
Going toward the port Of Classe, the wayfarer
looks up to the sea. across a yellow bank IF
sand. also above his level. and probably secs a
fisher fleet Haunting Venetian red and rich ochre
sails He does not catch a glimpse of the hulls
Of these boats, for ne is too far beneath them,
Classe has long stretch Of fine sand. and
exquisite shells lie thick upon it. olives cones.
satin shells trumpet shells trochide. double
razors and many varieties of biyaIyes and Of
columela may be gathered there literally in
handfuls. AT Rimini a fisherman brought in
sea horses and bright pink scallop shells. At
Tdmini. too, l a turtle SPRAYING over the
whole Of the wheelbarrow on which he was
being trundled to the fish market Turtle is
here not an uncommon catch. My coachman at
Rinlini said: a must be very poor in
Rimini to be poor at ALL for ne can buy two
POUNDS weight Of fine fish almost any day in
the winter for 10 cents"
Another class OF tourists than those already
mentioned visit Ravenna, namely. those who
seek novelty. II is paradoXcaI sort of nov
city that they find here for it consists in a re-
turn 10 an older world. The outward type Of
the people is classical If you ask a Greek peas
ant to what race he belongs. his answer is
"Romeos." taking for himself the name Of his
oldtrne conqueror. Heinrich Heine declared
that the Verona apple woman seen on his first
coming to Italy verify a human docu-
ment." Heine read medieval history. Roman
history, Greek history, in the deep lines and in
the classic features Of the old dame The grace
full bearing of even the toilers in North Italy
suggested to him living antique statues. He
felt the silk and purple of n splendid long dead
civilization behind the meagre fnery Of the
reduced noblewoman" of the fruit market.
The women Of the Roman Campagna," said the
Baroness Hugel acutely. ARE exactly like
Byzantine Madonnas." So are the women OF
the Ionian Islands. Havennese country women
are precisely OF the same type, and their walk
is exactly like the long lmbed, swinging gait
OF their Greek sisters. This racial chain-here
not very well linked together-is true TO his
tory Byzantium surviving the ruin of the
Western Romans, and the Eastern Empire set
Ravenna
And society. with its older world flavor, is dis
tinctly primitive in these parts. Byron. who
loved Ravenna lest Of all the cities Of Italy, |
chronicles someU here in his diary the all but
forty murders in Romagna in the space OF three |
months. These people retain much Of the
Middle Ages" comments the diarist
Driving At Rimiui. my coachman turned 20
49,.
the Deputy FerrarL You remember2 He was
murdered"
"Where7" l asked
Why, herer said the man, as II here" were |
the ct and proper place
ventured 20 tell Ravenna landed proprietor
what I had heard Of Ririni, cafe in the belief |
that Riminl was sufficiently distant not to hurt |
Ravenna suscepubillties. and my acquaintance |
capped my story with this account Of a recent |
occurrence: Two gentlemen Of different politI- |
cal parties met in the piazza, IN Ravenns, and |
exchanged opinions on some contentious point |
This ls what think Of your view began one |