The Montgomery advertiser., 1904-05-29

when che is. as one might say. enve1op4@ in such countless yards of material Tor summer wear a cloth gown made after any of the new designs, even though t Dc of light weight. would seem impfacticAhie for anything excepting carriage wear
 There are, 1t may be said, two absQlu<e~ ly distinct styles of dress that arc at' present fashionable. There fs q rA&her se- were tailor made cloth gown, the skirt ftLI and fiarins, but close fitting around the hips. made up with no exaggerated an3ou1t of material Then there is the long. loose skirt, with a yoke of fine tucI<s or cordinn around the hips, and then with plezfs q gathers below. aid with tucl<s and cord- ings again on the lower part of the skirt To drape or arrange this amount of r14- terial becomingly is very di61eult task and requires perfect fitting silk drpr skirt, but at the same time t means heavy weight to be carried. and as q rs1lt 1t ls ungraceful. The skirt must be long in front and at the sides, as well as in tho back. 90 that 1t cen readily be understood that It is not a very possible costume fof ordinary wear.
 The most practical of the cloth costumnh for summer wear are those made on rne simpaer designs. There are, besides the models already described. many others on the same order. with short jackets CT
  yet have sufficient warmth. The craze for fine checks and what are known as shep- herds plaids continues unabated, and tf1ia year the colors with the white are quite as fashionable as,, if not more so than, tho black and white.
 The black and white have also thls year the touches of color about them that are so fashionable in the other materials. Just a touch of red. green or blue In the girdle. facings. collar and cuffs makes quite transformation in an ordinarily plain and ineffective costume. One very favorite model that Is thought extremely smart has a short jacket that. when thrown back, shows a breasted white pique waistcoat. fastened wifh amethyst buttons, while the facings of the coat have band of amethyst and whtte heavy silk embroidery which is very effective against the black and white. Hall Mark of Last Years Suits.
 There are not many of the very plain shepherds plaid costumes seen this year. and those of last year are easily discerni- Die by the three-quarter or long coat end the small turn-down collar of black vel vet. However. the style of last year waa a very practical and extremely smart one. and 1t seems a pity that 1t should have gone so entirely out of date. There arg many women who insist that it is very foolish to completely change all their gowns each year. 90 that many well dressed individuals will be seen this year wearing these same gowns of last season. although to the initiated they bear tho hall mark of an old design.
 A compromise wath vsdling and clo3h ia extremely smart this year, and ft is con tended that such a costume Is plenty warm enough even for a rather cool day in ssaza- mer. Certainty the combination is a.ttrac- tive enough to make the wearer thereof so satisfied with her own appearanee that she wiA not pay much attention to wind and weather. Trimming vGiiing gowns with cloth ie not absolutely new. but has never been thought quite so desirabie as this year.
 A charming model that has been verv popular has a paeated skirt-paeated nk the sides and back In wide side paeats- and the front breadth left plain. Around taae 1onG are three broad tlicl1s that go ,arcend tas entire skirt which is short enough to dear the ground and yet So wide all around that ft gives the effect of botng longer than 1t is. The waAat is laid in paeata to match the skirt and neS q wide collar made of vedling and trimmed with bands of clothr-the cloth going also In q band down the front oe the waAst-
 me sleeves arc of medium size. nzrine toward the hand, and are finished with q
  sleeve that b finished with a hroady uniiu2d cuff of white laca This same model is copied in the finest of hand ttIcks instead of these paeatH and where the broad tuolzS come on the skirt therc are scaAioped bands of cloth exactly the shade of the veAlfng. Then there is a wide shouidcr cape of cloth made in three capeg. which ars pointed at the bark end are longer in front than dn back. There Is a good dead of warmth tn such a gown. and t is really very smart and attractive, besides bslng decidediy new.
 A white yelling and cloth gown made in thts way-the only trimming being a lace yoke, collar and cuffs--is even prettter than one in blue while in unauva and light shade of tan the same model has proved very satisfactory. It Is practical gown, and should be made of the heavier quality of yelling rather than of the fine voiie, that is too thin and not durable enough for hard wear. This gown iz in- tended for more practical use.
 While 1t is not absolutely necessary to have silk lining with such q gown as this the material looks better and hangs bes- ter if there is one. and in these days, when silk Things can be bought at such reason able prices, 1t is we'll to choose cheaper quality of yelling and have a silk lining rather than an expensive quality of veil Ing with a cheaper lining. All Things ara now far and away better than they used to be. the quality is better, and conse. quently they wear better. but yelling needs a silk lining to look well and hang well Another point 10 be remembered fs that the cloth used for trimming must exactly match the yelling; any shade little oif lkt.- An-.. Naa--.