Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-12-28

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are having all black pailietted lace gowns
made up for evening. and IL the aIl-black
Is not becoming. then a combina ton OF
black and white like the Illustration. ~
suggested. The above Is intended for a
woman of stately appearance. First OF all.
the very long skirt is made of plain black
Brussels net laid over foundation of cloth
of silver which has dts sheen heightened by
a lining of soft white guipure and taft
feta-
Strips of white guipure are applied In
widening bands running from the waist
down to within a foot of the bottom. and
growing wider as they leave the waist
until at the other end they round off TO
form a leaf-like point. There are six of
these. two starting at the front, to leave
a panel of the black Brussels net two
running down over the hips and the last
two coming toward the back with space
between for the black net to show.
But the beauty and originality OF this
costume is observed in the following treat
ment of jet trimming: Across the front
panel. which starts about three inches
wide at the belt and broadens to three
times that measure. there is a garniture
of ropes OF graduated jet beads. These
are looped from the sides toward the cen
ter in a series of festoons completely COW
ering the panel, and at the bottom where
this part of the skirt loses itself in what
appears to be deep full, circular flounce.
but which in reality is merely the bottom
of the lace skirt. the Jet decoration be-
comes elaborate one. in which large
leaves and stars done in jet paillettes are
conspicuous. The festoonng is not lost
sight of even here. and between the pat
terms of leaves and stars are ropes OF
large. glistening black beads
A narrow leaf-lke passementerie out
lines the white lace applique strips and
runs down the sides and back between
these white bands where there are more
loops of jet beads. Through the elaborate
pailletted pattern there is the enhancing
CLEAN of the cloth of silver underneath.
and even the white gupure stands out
with more character and beauty than It
would were it not for this exquisite back
ground.
The designer of this handsome costume
had attempted and successfully achieved
the continuation Of the alternating white
and black bands with less of the jet deco
ration in the bodice. There Is the broader
strip down the center with festoonngs OF
jet beads. and the white lace guipure is
edged with the same tiny bead pattern in
jet. Here on the bodice the white lace
appliques grow wider toward the top to
end at the low decolletage which dips in
a point in front and comes up rather
square over the shoulders. The neck IS
finished with a band of Jet trimming. and
there is very wide ceinture of solid Jet,
a corselet of glistening black beads and
paillettes over which the bodice blouses
ever little and quite high. This is
one distinctive feature of the newest bod
ice. which must have some fullness in front
to render 1t becoming to the fashionable
figure: but where a season ago the pouch
fell low over the belt II now comes quite
high, just under the bust, and is SO slight
as to be scarcely deserving the term of
blouse.
From the jet band going over the Shout
ders full capelike sleeves of vertical bands
of white guipure applique on black Brus-
sells net extend to a point just below the
curve of the arm. These are unlined. but
are weighted and ornamented. with the
jet pattern running throughout the entire
costume. Under the lower edge of these
wide circular cape sleeves there Is a friil
of cloth of silver. gathered over one Of
white chiffon. The whole has the appear
ance of being very elaborate, but withal
ii is simple and elegant a gown for
certain occasions one could we'll choose.