The daily morning journal and courier., 1904-06-11
THE NBW ONDERSlUDY.
SHE IS EXPLODED BY THE WO-
 MAN WITH MILLIONS.

Fitted Upon Her-Must he Her Em-
 pIoyer's Double.
 The one same thing to do when you have plenty of money is to save yourself trouble.
 Spare yourself all the trifes. and save up for the big things.
 The poor woman who can't goes to pieces.
 The newest way of doing this has been started by Mrs. George Gould, Mrs. Payne Whitney, Mrs Carnegie, Mrs. E. H. Hartman and others.
 They hire an understudy to try on all their clothes.
 Isn't that bliss?
 It is bliss that cannot be indulged in by the moderate -pursed, for under studies come high. They are not the $6- a-week model of the department shops, nor of the studio. They are hard to find, difficult to keep and laugh in price.
 Sometimes when found, they do not rank their services high. for they do not know their rarity, or their value to their Heading lady, They soon know, however. and then the twin pays well or the leading lady stands for six hours a week for her own fittings.
 One such girl who posed as Mrs. Gould Cor six weeks, every day, for superb rousseau of winter and Palm beach gowns, asked the wife of the multi-millionaire $500 for her work, and Mrs Gould added $50 as "lagniappe."
 These understudies of the rich must have the exact measurements, the same coloring and when possible the same type of face as their patrons.
 The drasslnaker5 say that many of the poseurs are so much lovelier than those they represent.e and their tast and style so much greater, that the work is lessened in every quarter and better results obtained.
 Women who cannot find an exactly correct understudy are using another fatigue-saving scheme. They have the second or head filter come to their house who makes a perfect fitting skirt, coat and blouse with girdle. cuff and stock.
 These are made of cambric or scrim, and all the curves and altera tions worked over as if the fabric were cloth C: gold.
 Possibly $50 is the price of a head fit ters work on it, for tsis is no slight task and requires as much interest and skill as a costlier material would de- mand.
 The next s.ep is to buy a paper nache or conventional figure fcrm Some times the wax figures are used-and the .cambric model, well stitched and fin- ished is put on that r. wax figure is used, the face is tinted to correspond with the ori-inaPs face.
 The slightest attempt to fit the cambric model 10 the lay figure would be ru'nous. The cambric is stuffed out everywhere with cotcn wadding to keep the original lines. ! On this nerfected figure. the gown is, fitted and made and sent to it's wearer.
 If it is defective, the blame is as much on the skill of the filter as though she Tad failed to follow the lines Of the flesh and blood figure. ! Admirable way to save unnecessary fatigue on patience and muscle, isn't it?
 Of course, the other way is the best, for the living undergtudy who has ab- sorbed her. patroness' ideas. and individ- uali7y in dress can suggest a dozen vital things.
 She is usually good judge of clothes, has style, and 2 Knowledge of what's what in costumer.,, that makes her of strong aid to her whom she is saying fatigue.
 Millionaire women, who take advan- tage of these very twentieth century ideas of getting their clothes, are Mrs. Perry Belmont i, Mrs Taft. wife of the secretary of war; Mrs. Harry Payne Whitney, Mrs. E. H. Hartman and Mrs Carnegie, of New York; Mrs. Chauncey Blair, Of Chicago; Miss Lily Lambert, of St. Louis, and Mrs. John Hays Hammond.
 Each of them has devised some meth cd of eliminating the fittings of gowns, by use of an understudy of flesh and blood, or way and cambric. i This scheme is entirely new in the States, except to some smart dress makers. and some millionaire women.
 In the reception rooms of a very smart designer just off Fifth avenue, a filter, passing through. said to another: ''You must fit Mrs. Harry Whitney and Mrs. Hartman in one room, and I'll fit Mrs. Carnegie and Mrs. Belmont in onother."
 1 Instantly a few strangers there were whispering curiously and eagerly deter mined to wait until these much herald ed millionaires passed on their way uot f They asked the aristocratc young Kentucky woman, whose place it was how long they must wait. Day and night" she smilingly re- | piled. "The frocks are being fitted on under r-studies. z And she explained the process.
 l This southerner. who has gone into i a business for which she had so much talent and whose own social prestige is l so high that it commands the best soci- ety orders, is not by any means the only one who lets these millionaires Isend doubles of themselves for their frocks.
 The idea comes from Paris, where the dress demand is so exorbitant.
 The original chooses her materials by having dozens of samples of fabrics and trimmings sent to her, and chooses her styles by large hand-painted water color plates. Design and pattern being decided on, she directs her under study ap +hn vital r1oif1tc anH hnr npyt ctan is