Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1904-12-15
FROM ACROSS THE SEA
HINTS ON MEMS DRESS FROM
ENGLISH CAPITAL.
Fashions and the Fancy
for Furs-Evening Dress Develop
Concerning Cravats.
oudou Correspondence of the Haberdasher.

make a disproportionate stir in America has
lately been mooted In connection with over
coats. A little while ago discussed some
variations in the creasing OF trousers which
had been talked of here; and now. as 1t
would appear. the topic is to be creases IN
coats AS I mentioned some time ago, q
Chesterfield made with an irreducible mini
mum in the way of vertical seams has been
introduced; and by reason Of its novelty
and distinction 1t has come into a certain
amount of favor. But now 1t Is thoughe
that a quite plain coat is too cylindrical IN
effect and some men are having naro
crease pressed into their coats down the
middle of the back-the place where the
seam ought to grow. l am told tnat otne,s
20 so far as to run a crease down each sue
as we'll. This Is q kind of absurdlty, IN one
sense; but 1t is also to some extent matter
of taste Personally / can think OF ways
in which a Chesterfield overcoat-a cnes-
ter as 1t is called in taflors slang On THIS
sde-can be designed without unnecessary
seams and made to look admirable II
would be rather long, compared with the
present style, and loose enough 10 give q
good draping from the shoulders IN d
Consider how well the evening cape look a,o
when Beerbohm Tree introduced II, ana ms
talented half-brother, Max Beerpohm,
''toomed" it: consider how well the new
terfield cut after the usual fashion, there IS
no DENYING the fact that rather bad el-
feet is given by the huge unrelieved ex-
panse of seamless cloth, not ample enough
to drape itself; and here crease ooWn ne as
back. or even the three creases spoken o.
would not be altogether hopeless Decio-
edly, there is much in the innovation.
The Creased Coat.
Should the creased coat become as much
down the front Of trousers-and 1t cannot
be nretended that it has the same justifica-
ton as the latter-devices will assuredly
have to be placed on the market for maxi
ing the said creases expeditiousiy hrm
again when they have pulled out, because
the crease in a coat would be much' less
durable than the crease in PAIR OF trous
ers. l hear already of contrlvance, prl-
marily intended for the latter but equally
applicable to coats. 1t is said to look very
much like a large pair of tatlors shears
with rollers on the points and contriv-
ance to heat the latter with burning aico.
hol. One sees vaguely how this would
work. and as an adjunct to the trouser-
press 1t might be useful. for the trouser-
press is not an unexceptionable device ex-
cept in very skilled hands. 1t does not rui-
fill its function in any way Whatever:
In the way of real novelty in overcoats
for full dress daytime use, however, FORE
see something quite different; and the rea-
sons which make me anticipate II are CO.
gent enough to tempt me to the dangerous
regions Of prophecy. The manner In Whlch
brown is making its way has already been
described In these letters, and believe my
self to have foreseen its development peiore
most people What now expect to see Is
brown fulled beaver Chesterfield, with or
without seams according to the way that
the cat jumps in this particularly and cut
shade shorter than recent overcoats-but
only a shade shorter. 1t will be OF DARK
tone, with warmth of color In IT, ana VIII
have a rich velvet collar closely matching
the CLOTH Single breasted and cut fairly
we'll up in the neck-opening, it Will have
horizontal pockets (whose return Tor 1of-
NAL oyercoats Of every sort l likewise tore-
see) and large flaps, with broad stitchlng;
and there may be a couple of rows of WIS.,
ible stitching on the pockets. Such a gar
rnent would be smart in appearance, ana
quite on the lines along which fashlon is
Just now undoubtedly tending to develop
Waistcoats.
Fancy waistcoats for wearing with
Jacket suit continue to be very much IN
vogue, but, in a paradoxical (but quite log-
tcaD way, these fancy waistcoats are al
WAYS plain. That Is to say. they are made
of natternless material contrasting agree
ably with the patterned tweed Of the suit.
Knitted waistcoats in wool are quite extern
sively used ALI are single-breasted ana
cola rless and have plain bone buttons to
match their own material with PLAIN
sarge suit a Tattersall waistcoat is worm
the only exception to the rule, ana one
which demonstrates Its log1calnesS. Inc
reason that old waistcoats worn with
tweed or cashmere suit are without pattern
is that a design-material is best shoWn-up
by a plain one; 1t Is rarely that two dHer-
ent patterns can be satisfactorily combined.
The reason that the light, rather snowy
Tat is worn with plain indigo serge SUIT
is exactly the same; the serge needs some
thing light to relieve it. Refer sults-that
IL, double breasted Jacket suits in blue
serge-are, for once. entirely out or use ana
80 is the familiar red knot-tle usually worn
with serge. But suits worn by the kind OF
men who used to wear the favorite dark
hue serge double breasted REFER are
made In the same material, and with the
small round corners now obsolete with any
other jacket. But nothing can preah tne
prevalent taste for the single-breasted
styles
Automobile coats are made now with
large fur collars double-breasted, and they
are furnished with large buttons often MADE
of leather and double set of shaped tabs,
very smartly stitched. Such coats are made
with a whole back, and are cut loose. They
reach to the tops of the boots, and are
lined as well as collared with fur. think
there is reason to expect conslderaoie re-
yiyal in the use of high-grade furs this
wear. which will not be for motor car use
Evening Dress.
In evening dress, waistcoats are now
made rather long. as expected they would
he hut without any of the ridiculous ex-
cessl had almost misquoted Shakespeare
to say. "Waistfull and ridiculous excess
predicted by some quidnuncs However.
four buttons and those not too close to-
gether will this winter be the regular rule.
Tba .sSoft" frOnted evening shirt has come