The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1904-04-24
BIOuses Prove
Their Popularity
Complete Costumes, Pronounced Good by Dame Fashion
Fail to Rival the B1ouse and Shirt Waist.
BY HARRIET HAWLEY.

black silk cluny in a circular pattern,
underlaid with white chiffon.
BrOderie d'AngIaise.
The striking feature Of the newest
blouses are the prevalence of broders
q Anglaise for trimming, and the e<~.-
travagance of the yokes.
Broderie d Anglaise is ABOUT as new
as most of the prevailing fashions
that is, it dates back clearly to the
early sixties. In those days our
grandmothers laboriously punched
holes in cotton cloth with sharp
pointed instruments of ivory. Then
they buttonhole-st stitched the holes and
embroidered vines and flowers around
them. The young woman of to-day
haunts the bargain counters for an ex-
aggerated and elaborated reproduction
of her grandmother's needlework, done
entirely by machine, with holes az
big as the petals of flowers and en-
broidery that is simply bewildering in
its variety of designs.
Shirt waist sets can be secured in
this popular trimming, including
yokes, cuffs and collars, or simple
bands to outline yokes, fronts and
cuffs. The finest examples of the
work come in linen, though it is simu-
lated on wooden and silk materials.
1t is an extremely broad fashion Of
uECOI dllOl dIlQ AlllSL IlOL OC uSSQ
too large measure by the very small
woman.
For Very Tall Women.
For a very tall woman of admirable
carriage there comes an elaborate
linen blouse in which broderie dan
glaise plays an important and strik-
ing part. The body of the blouse is
tucked in fine pin-lines running up and
down, but the vest section, tapering
to the waist line, has tucks running
crosswise. On either side of this vest
runs a band of the broderie, and 1t
also runs from the collar to a point
two or three inches below the Shout
der on the sleeve.
The deep, pointed cuff is fashioned
entirely of the broderie, and the inside
seam of the bloused sleeve is outlined
with the same decoration. Belt and
collar are also fashioned from the
broderie, so that only the back, under
arm pieces and a small section Of the
fronts show the tucked linen.
The Afternoon BIOuses.
Lawn of the sheerest quality has its
adherents, especially for afternoon
blouses and for wear with lightweight
wash or silk skirts. A pretty shirt
waist of white lawn which closes in
the back has a shallow yoke of Irish
CfOCH6l IueudlllOllS III d QldIlOiiu-SHdP-
ed design. From this the tucked lawn
runs to the bust line like a secondary
yoke, and below this the entire blouse
is tucked crosswise in half-inch tucks.
The sleeves are laid in pin tucks to the
elbows, with insets of the Irish crochet,
and the full bishop effect is gathered
into a tight, narrow cuff of the same
lace.
Madeira embroidery, combined with
batiste, builds another dainty afternoon
waist. A deep, round yoke is simu-
lated by the applied design Of circular
Madeira insert, two inches in diam
eter Running through these and ra-
dating like spokes from the hub of
wheel, with the collar as the center.
are six inset bands Of the embroidery,
ending in elaborate designs, which
strike just below the bust line in the
front and deep down upon the sleeve.
Tiny tucks run below the yoke for a
few inches and the bottom of the
blouse is gathered smoothly into
fitted belt.
Sleeves Narrow by Comparison.
The sleeves are somewhat narrow, by
comparison with many of the seasons
blouses, and are tucked simply into
plain, round cuff of the embroidery.
The girl who has a couple of pretty
but simply tucked waists left from last
season can, make good use of them by
applying a yoke of embroidery or lawn,
inset with embroidery. This yoke need
not be sewed into the shirt waist at
the cost of much ripping and fitting,