Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-08-15

part made Of plateaux, are lined with
draped velvet, Other hats not Of the larg.
est size are lined with three quarter-inct
wide velvet ribbon. slightly gathered into
rufiies: cream or palest blue velvet beine
generally chosen, which harmonizes with
all brown drabs and dark green's. When
this is the case. the further trimming will
consist OF a rosette of loose loops Of the
same, placed over the ear or a little be-
hind It,
Hats with directoire crowns are mostly
lined fiat. the velvet lining being some
times overlaid with guipure. In these hats
the under trimming becomes of special i'm
portance, and will often consist of a group
of several ostrich tips or a paradise tail
Bows or ribbon, quilts, wings. etc.. are
Chiefly reserved for hats of quieter order
Crowns and Brims.
AS for the vexed question of crowns /,
is hardly much nearer settlement thar
it was month ago. The high, jam-pot
crown, which, according to some would-be
authorities, was going to carry everything
before it, has been set aside by some OF
the first milliners. who have adopted In
Its stead much prettier crown, to my
thinking. This is denominated the direc.
toire crown. 1t is fiat at the top. straight
up at the sides, of medium width, and
varies In height from two and half to
three inches Still you are likely to see
sprinkling of broad brimmed hats with
jam-pot crowns all the same. 1t is only
applicable to hats of this sort, whereas the
directoire is also suited to small hats and
toqueS, although showing to no particular
advantage on picture hats
Mile. Pujol has sold a number of these
hats with directoire crowns to some of her
best American customers. Some with the
velvet stretched smooth over the shape,
others with the velvet shirred, others again
with the velvet arranged entirely in narrow
folds encircling the crown and brim. A
model for which the last arrangement has
hoo nj sir III n.tin Itl 10 ri
happy conception. The velvet is shaded
from dark blue to very light tint. and
the semi-AmaZons with which it is trimmed
being also shaded Ostrich feathers and
oblong buckles of a very handsome order
provide the trimming for most of these
hats, dark blue bottle-green, sage green.
Bordeaux tints and golden browns LAYING
the preference, with feathers to match
Use of Ribbons.
The only advices arrived at thus far, in
regard to the ribbons which will be en-
ployed as trimming on the autumn and
winter headgear, are from those seen on the
Paris models shown in the recent openings.
These were of the fine, soft, limp satin and
taffeta textures of the liberty weayes, in
plain colors, and in widths from about five
inches upward. They are folded around the
crowns, and fashioned into WIDE fiat bows
on the larger hats. and used for brim- bor-
behring's and facings, are gathered at short,
equal spaces across the width, to form
bands of short, stiff standing loops Of
ruchelike effect. They are also made into
small rosettes Cor roses), which on some
models supply the place of the usual arti-
fetal blossoms. Ribbons of several tones Of
a color are seen in the bows and other gar
the ribbon roses, with several of differing
tones of a color, are others in harmonious
varied colors and in white.
In millinery jewelry ornaments of cut
n n1a
the French models and in the home market,
with liberal use made crystals, cut jet and
devices of gilt filigree, in charming concets.
The devices in steel, crystal and Jet run
through large buckles-variousy oblong,
square, oval and round-crescents, cabo-
chons, comb backs, etc, while there are
mimic steel swords with crystal-set hits,
and steel penpoints for holding the ouills Of
ostrich plumes; and special fancy attaches
to the semi-spherical French gold buttons,
about three-fourthS of an inch in diameter
to be set in the center Of rosettes
Buckles and Ornaments.
Buckles are prominently to the fore again.
This Is partly the result of the return Of
higher crowns for which folds of velvet,
drawn through an oblong buckle, shaped so
as to embrace nearly half it's circumference,
is an almost necessary addition. Large
square and elongated diamond-sha ped
buckles however, are much used in combi-
nation with ribbon trimmings on other hats
and toques Among the different sort of
buckles provided for these purposes, the
greater number are in gilt metal set with
cut steel points. in chaste metal gilt or
silvered, or in jet.
Heavy guipure lace in the form Of circular
appl1ques, with deeply Vandyked edges, and
of broad bands inserted clear in the brim,
must be reckoned among the fashionab BILE
decorations for this style Of hat when made
of velvet. The Vandyked guipure Is also
inn 10 a1nrp ID
Such lace is generally chosen either pure
white or of a light creamy tone