The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1903-01-08

nARIs. Short coats of the
Louis XIV style are an adjunct not
only to afternoon. but to evening
gowns. They are made of the striped
silks peculiar to the period ana give a
special air OF smartness to the costume.
A vest of lace or some other soft fabric
relieves the stiffness of the coat. which
IS most often seen with rows of silver
or gold buttons along the sides.
An evening toilet of the Louis XIV
style was on one of the manikins at
Paquins. 1t was cut with low bodice.
over the shoulders of which dounces Of
lace were so arranged as to give it the
appearance of being square The
dounces formed the upper ornaments
OF the short jacket OF white silk striped
in bands of pale blue between rows Of
pink roses. The bodice itself was of
white all over lace. with an upper band
Of black chantilly. The folded belt was
also of the chantilly. The skirt was Of
white lace over white satin, the lower
border being trimmed with an applique
Of black lace. put on over gold gauzy
material FeStoons of artificial roses
draped the side of the skirt. In the
back were sash ends of fine white net,
with nuted mousseline de sole as a FIN
ish. The skirt was rather fun and cut
demi train.
1t is noticeable that on the lace over
dresses the use of gold is as pronounced
as on the heavy street gowns. Fine
gold laces are appliqued on black and
white lace, and pieces of gold tissue are
cleverly SGT under the patterns in the
plain laces to give the appearance Of an
enmeshed sunbeam. Other devices arc
the use Of gold thread to outline pat
terms on lace and of embroidered pat
terms appliqued upon the main fabric.
Some Of the fine chiffon evening gowns
are made entirely in this way. with
oil over embroideries of gold. Inser-
lions of gold lace are made up with
bands Of white or black lace or bands
Of chiffon embroidery. The richest ef-
fects. however, are achieved by the
combination Of lace with gauze painted
designs laid over gold or silver tissues.
Cut out appliques laid over gold gal
loon is one Of the devices for enriching
cloth costumes. The object is to avoid
ali gaudiness in the use OF the metallic
cloths and trimmings. Too much of Ell
Their is avoided. and those that are
used are toned down by the use of su-
perimposed materials of a thin stuff.
Wraps Of all sorts show touches Of the
bright braids and appliques.
While speaking Of wraps It is inter
sstiug to note that this bids fair to be a
season of fur Innings. The majority of
the long wraps. if not lined throughout
with FUR. have touches of it on revers
and collar and down the front. where
the mantle is thrown open. that at any
rate it may have the appearance Of be
tne fur lined.
velvet is enjoying a great vogue.
Paquin is making an effort to popular
fze the plated velvet skirt. Skirts for
street wear have always been a mOder-
ate length in Paris. but those for indoor
use are, II anything, longer than before
Insertions Of triangular plaitings are
emouE the novel devices used to add
fullness. There seems to be a distfhc!
tendency toward the polonaise or over
skirt Some of the smart new skirts
ere made with the 0verskirts cut out in
graduated points or scaIops. with an