Evening star., 1903-09-19
Of airiness the sleeves are sometimes In q
different textile from the rest Of the cos

Of airiness the sleeves are sometimes In a
different textile from the rest OF the COS
tune
This oddity was expressed in a green
satin tea gown which had sleeves Of green
spangled net, not scrap of which showed
elsewhere in the costume. Another gown
French model for dinner and evening re-
ception wear-showed all the bodice OF net
and the skirt Of silk. White gros grain and
white net spangled with Jet were the ma
terials of this costume, whose skirt was
cut en- princess and faced with under rufhes
of black chiffon. The net bodice was in
surplice FORM the jet-embroidered girdle of
the skirt covering 1t some distance.
There is no doubt but that a reaction has
set in against the very narrow belts. for
most of the girdlings of the new season
are extremely wide. Toilets In many thin
materials are held in at the waist by shirred
belts of velvet and silk almost short-corset
deep.
beautiful house gown in pale blue silk
muslin, inserted with cream embroderies, is
girdled in this way with blue velvet. Upon
a frock of rose-colored tulle a girdle effect
definitely suggestive of the corset was used,
and this was far more charming than 1t
sounds. The short athletic girdle of tape
strip was simulated in plain pink ribbon.
The ladder of tiny bows which went down
the back was repeated on the apron of the
skirt
Light Shades Liked
Pale colors and thin materials will be
more than ever approved for house wear
this winter, so the woman to whom pretty
house fineries are becoming will be in her
glory. AT all of the shops this growing
tendency for summery house effects is well
understood and, however late the season,
the summer house gown of silky muslin,
lace and ribbon rarely drops in price. Then
the models of such garments-if in wrapper
or tea gown shape-change little with the
seasons. and a slight alteration Of the
sleeves is often all that is necessary for ef-
fects genuinely passe. This, with ready
made models is made possible by the fact
that with most toilets of first-class orders
an extra piece of the material is generally
supplied; but If it is not, as far as wool and
silk stuffs are concerned. the license of the
hour allows many new contrasts.
The rule of keeping good ready-made
house garments at the first price is depart
ed from when it comes to wash textures,
distinctly understood. Figured dimities and
batistes come under this reduced head but
If the gown Is in plain color and displays
novel lace 1t often goes over to the legit-
innate fall stock, whose new furnishings are
r1bbon-tr1mmed woods of the most delicate
weave.
Ribbons are employed on all house toilets
and upon underwear in enormous quanti-
ties. The dainty pompadour sort in tints to
match the skirt appear on some French
petticoats in thin brocaded and covered
silks Such skirts are exceedingly beaut
ful and as they will be SpOrted with black
or darkly hued gowns, their glorifying eff
feet may be relied on. Rich contrasts for
these skirts and gowns are violet with
plum. yellow with gray, green with brown,
and black and white with blue A black
gown will admit of petticoat in any color,
but the more delicate it's hue the better, un-
less the skirt is for the toughest kind of
wear.
Soft Lines Favored.
The trend of the moment is all toward
decoration and return to the feminine
softness which distinguished our grand
mothers. So even If fair woman bows to
the need Of one practical dress, her friv-
olous petticoats will relieve it's somberness.
Her shoes may be stout-for the pave
ment" dress demands a return to sensible
shoes-but her stockings will be of embroid-
cred silk; her chemise handwork. and her
rain cloak lined with a silk that would
make one bless threatening skies.
AS to the clothes designed chiefly for or
nament, they may be as fooishly sweet as
they please. And what more adorably fool
ish and sweet than pOmpadOur ribbons, pet
ticOats tinted like morning glories and un-
der sleeves. MARY DEAN.