Oxford Democrat. [volume] (Paris, Me.) 1833-1933, 1903-09-08
Early Autumn Fashions.

deliberately trimmed gowns are to be
avoided, also brilliant colOrs and marked
" original novelty goods. When cos
tune has to be worn for two or three
seasons, it is great mistake to choose
anything that is in the least conspicuous.
Dark cOlors are best, light gray or tan
and a simple design. If in the second
season a gown looks shabby, braid,
bands of taffeta, or rows of black velvet
ribbon can be used, and transforma-
ton accomplished. Black, very dark
blue, and brown are the three most
economical colors to choose from, and
any one of the three may be made to
look like new the second season by q
change in trimmings.
Brown has the great disadvantage that
unless rather light shade of color is
selected, the coat will not look we'll with
other gowns; however, this year there
are several shades to choose from that
look we'll with other colors.
Colored linens, as we'll as white, are
very much used, and the weave of can
vas or basket cloth, which in reality is
linen, quite heavy and without any finish,
is very good. This is trimmed with
bands of lace insertion of a heavy quality
or with bias bands of linen of a con-
trasting color with an edge of white,
also of linen. These bands sometimes
strap the entire skirt from waist to hem,
and are also on the blouse waist.
There are founced linen skirts with a
scalloped edge and an embroidered polka
dot that are severely simple and yet very
smart, while of course the embroidered
linens of all kinds that have been worn
all summer again make their appearance,
linen, in fact, being the most useful ma
terial for general wear.
Some charmingly dainty new hand
made lingerie is being shown, and in
this line is a field for homework for the
woman who loves pretty things, but can.
not afford to pay the high prices asked
for such articles in the shops. Pale
blue, pale pink and cream white batiste
are used in these garments as we'll as the
pure white. A set in pale blue has in
crustations and edgings Of Valenciennes
lace.
The chemise as we'll as the other gar
ments is about semicircular in shape, a
bias seam running down the back. The
material is cut away under the lace
trimmings. Just above the bust the
chemise has a tiny dart on each side
taken in under the lace to adjust the
neck opening perfectly to the figure.
Valenciennes and other imitation laces
are used on these garments.
First mourning is, or should be, OF
somber black. Conservative people do
not believe even in crepe, which has a
luster, but choose the old-fashioned
bombazine, Henrietta cloth, or any ma
terial which is absolutely lusterless.
The fashion of the gown, if intended
for the house, must be as simple as
possible, the only trimming being bias
bands of the material. For street wear
dull-faced cloth is worn, the only trim
ming on the skirt being bands of the
material, or better still, no trimming
being used. A medium-length coat
even without facings of silk, a bonnet
with long veil, worn, as rule, back
from the face, and small veil edged
with crepe and made of thin net over the
face, are the conventional costume. Fol
widows the transparent cuffs and collars
of white are permissible, and are usually
much more becoming than all black.
Crepe-trimmed gowns for house OF
street, or entire gowns of crepe, are ex-
ceedingly smart; and are often seen,
crepe being the material at present
which, let people say what they will, is
invariably associated with mourning
Harper's Bazaar.