Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-11-28
EXTRAVAGANT GOWNS
Winter Modes Seem to Cap
the Climax.
GREAT ELABORATION
FEW PLAIN CLOTHES ARE SEEN
ON ANY OCCASION.
White Broadcloth is Fashionable for
Street Wear-Typical
Models.

mere was q time, NOT so many seasons
ago. when no woman of taste would appear
on the street in anything except a severely
tailored gown. But now, and the French de-
signer shrugged his shoulders expressively,
there is no limit to the elaboration and
extrava gance of street dress. Textures
which combine weight with velvety softness
are loaded with embroidery and lace, fur
and chiffon, till the beauty of the founda-
ton is lost sight Of
The summer gowns were extravagant;
there is no disputing the fact. But the
winter costumes are Gaping the climax
Women are riding in their coupes to tea or
| reception, walking to church or even con-
| descending to a half hours shopping in
gowns of the most delicate hues whose
elegance is reinforced by the richest of
| trimmings and the most regal of furs.
Furs seem to have reached the limit of
| extravaganza The sweeping stoles and
| pelerines, with muff and often hat to
match, are charming. Yet even more strik-
| ing is the use of fur as a dress trimming.
Not only does it form bands and edgings,
| but fur medallons-if the name is permits
| sible-are among the latest fads in trim
| ming. snowy white broadcloth gown Is
trimmed with lace medallions whose CEN
| tiers are clevery inserted pieces of ermine.
| Moleskin is doing service on the blues and
| silvery grays, while sable is pretty on a
| dull green or warm crimson cloth.
| Buttons make important feature of the
| winter dress furnishings. There are hand
| painted, embroidered and crOcheted but
| tons, and even more fashionable are the
| buttons of bone and metal.
In High Favor.
| Gun metal buttons are in high favor, and
| with good reason. They are effective on
either white or black as we'll as toning
! beautifully with any shade of gray
White broadcloth is extremely fashionable
| for dressy street wear. A gown of this ma
| terial has an astounding air Of simplicity
| Like the proverbial white muslin, it Is mis-
| leading to the masculine eye. But the more
| sapent woman sees at a glance that here
| is combination of elegance and good taste.
| A broadcloth requires the most careful
treatment If the aim is to make it some
| thing more than a strictly tailored gown.
One of these white broadoloth costumes
| which is trimmed with gun metal buttons
| is more suitable for church or shopping
| than for a coupe function. The tight-fit-
| ting skirt little more than touches the
| ground, and has a slight train 1t has
| stitched slot seams, which open ten inches
above the bottom hem into fan-shaped
pleats. These give the proper flare around
| the bottom.
Elton Effects.
The short jacket has an Eton effect, al
though ITS rather deep tight-fltting stitched
belt gives a trim fit over the hips. 1t is
| closed at the throat but below the fronts
are free. They are ornamented with stitch
| ed pieces of the material in a stole shape,
| although these merge almost completely
| into the jacket. so firmly are they stitched
and so vigorously are they pressed.
There is low stitched collar inserted
| with panne velvet, in the gun metal shade.
The rather scant cape collar Is shaped into
scallops. Gun metal buttons ornament the
bottom Of the Jacket, and the stoles are
tod {,xa
| silk tassels. The bouffant sleeves have the
| fullness laid into the armhole in inch-wide
pleats. The puff is caught in at the wrist
| into oddly shaped narrow cuffs trimmed
| with panne velvet
Cavalier Ruffies.
! The lace hand ruffles are as deep and full
| as ever We're those sported by a cavalier Of
| the court Of King Charles. 1t is pretty
| fashion, and has both grace and elegance.
Either white or ecru lace can be used eff
| fectively, although in this case milady has
| preferred the former shade.
A smart toque of ernine, trimmed with
| a cluster of short white ostrich plumes,
| gives pretty finish to the costume.
Never was there such infinite variety in
! the way of braids and galloonS. Both for
| eign and domestic looms have been whir-
i ring for many months to prepare for the
| present season, and yet much of the stock
! is already depleted. If mlady wishes a
! gown in the fashionable shade of brown or
| one of the new blues. she had best buy her
| braid first and her material to match.
| Otherwise she is doomed to endless worry
| and perhaps final disappointment.
Make It Becoming.
| Brown is not becoming to many tints Of
| complexion. But since Dame Fashion de-
crees Its popularity, modistes are contriv-
| ing to combine 1t with fluffy vests Of white
pink or pale blue, or with richly ornament
| ed revers and collars; anything to keep the
| brown away from the face and preserve
| the wearers appearance and temper.
broadcloth in a mellow shade of brown
| Is combined with braid of a slightly darker
| tint The pleated skirt shows the trend of
| the hour toward flowing effects and is
| slightly trained. A narrow panel-shaped
! applique of five rows of braid in two differ
ent widths runs down the front. SINH
lar bands over the hips give a snug hip
| yoke effect. The bottom skirt hem Is also
| trimmed with the braid
The striking feature of the short tight
fitting Jacket is the stoles which extend
from under the revers almost 10 the knees
They are edged with the wider braid and
stitched down as far as the waist line
Shaped pieces similarly trimmed with
braid fit over the shoulders, giving some
thing of the effect of a cape collar. The
coat revers are faced with the white silk
with which the jacket is lined and edged
| with an 1nch-wide piece of gold-colored
panne velvet ribbon.
Dull Gilt Buttons.
| The buttons which trim the bottom Of
the jacket and the tight-fitting sleeve cuffs
! are In a dull gilt to harmonize. Gilt braid
| is used effectively on the hat which match
es this costume. The bell-shaped outer
sleeves are trimmed with the narrow braid
and are therefore not too stiff to fall in
| graceful folds
| Cloth bands are quite as fashionable as
| the bra1ds and GALLONS. All three are fire.
| quently combined on one costume. Indeed
| the designer does not stop there but adds
ribbon, lace and velvet in bewildering pro-
fusion
light blue broadcloth suit Is trimmed
with braid of several widths and colors,
| with stitched bands of the material, and
| with the omnipresent military button of
graduated size. A wide boX-pIeat forms a
panel front to the skirt. AS a hem decora-
| ton there is solid band of the appliqued
| black braid edged by narrow white braid.
The three quafters-length coat closes on
| the left side, and this, with the shape of
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