The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1903-09-30
MODERN SOFIA.
A Bright and Busting Town That
Suggests Paris.

A wide. smiling valley, and, far be
vond. the steep incline of an endless
mountain range, the Vitosch chain, still
snow--capped when we saw it, against
a bright blue sky, while nearer the
earth was clad with a cloak of the soft
est verdure, a lush green seeming to
round the contours of outline here and
there. Such was the first impression of
the panoramic setting within which we
found enshrined Sofia, the Bulgarian
capital as bright and modern looking
little town as say, Baden-Baden, ana,
indeed, more reminiscent of some small
German "Residenz stadt" in style ana
structure than anything one generally
associates mentally with the near east.
Two rfe ye-aaTe, of course not mucn' III
which to Judge of any place. IL Is
merely the obvious then than strikes
the visitors eye and is retained upon
his mental retina, and therefore TO oui
mind the name of Sofia is lastingly as
ISOLATED with sundry broad ana sndoy
streets. boulevards beneath which we
watched with untiring interest the con-
slant flow of traffic, the coming ana
going of soldiers. monda1nes. peasahtIy
and curious semi-oriental ngures, very
evidently jewellers beyond that tower
ing mountain range, whom a oeslre ~
barter. or-who nows?-possloly even
the ever present miasma of intrigue IN
these Balkan principalities, had brought
hithsr ,oo+
had Something of the coming summer
| in if vet these stolid, slow moving ng-
t-es were their fur caps and long Skin
coats. of which the Sleeps wool tuIlleu
Inward forms the lining. without ap
narentIy the least discomfort. Most OF
! them led their oxen. harnessed 10 cum
brous carts while again near these the
smart electric trans whl2zed pV-d
/ strange and homogeneous mixture OF the
r1fafIIraCn11G
element in the street traffic was the
peasant women. many of the girls be-
| ing quite beautiful, their garments gay
with red and blue embroiderles- anu
their persons loaded with parDarlc-
| looking silver ornaments. silver COINS
even glinting here and there amid theii
long. thick raven plaits. Another touch
| Of color was given to this scene by the
numerous different uniforms whlcn as
tinguish lie militaire. the general ap-
| pearance of which reminds one OF the
Russian military dress, although the
men seemed of better physique gen
| orally speaking. Toward evening TINS
nictrre became even more animated
for the inhabitants of Sofia love the
open air; the cafes and restaurants
then assume tia aspect of some lesser
Paris, pretty faces, elegant toilets, mu'
sic and laughter dominating the scene
in the smartest town quarter.
Beyond this actual center of life
stretch rows of villa residences. hail
buried, at that time of year, amid leafy
trees while the ceaseleSS song of birds
here. there and everywhere seemed tc
attest a scarcity of cats in Sofas SUI
burban districts. and certainly stamped
it as a veritable paradise for the feath'
cred creation. The royal palace, now as
"correct'' a residence as any prince
could desire, was, we were told, not al
WAYS so: in fact. at the time of Prince
Alexande1's advent it was with some
difficulty that two water-tight rooms
could be found for the accommodation
of his h;ghness. while the unmade road:
" ere then still dimly illumined will
lanterns. making darkness visible. Since
those days, however, the little Bulgarian
capital has certainly gone ahead, anc
at all events brushed itself up, ex
ternally.-PaIl Mall Gazette.