The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1903-09-29

here over those awful Andean traiIs?) a
cabinet organ, guitars, mandolins, vio-
Inns, and other operate selections, the
| house-servants we're called in to give
us a specimen of native music, and our
visit was concluded with the most
pleasant impressions on all sides. 1t
came out afterwards. however, that we
did not see anything of the real enter
tainment of the evening, for our musical
friend understanding the ways of his
countrymen better than we, and that
their ways are not our ways, slipped
beforehand and posted the priest as to
what are not Sunday customs among
| los Americans, and then judiciously
hurried us away before many Of the
guests arrived and the dancing and
wine-drinking began. 1 mentioned this
not to defame the boy Cure, who no
doubt lives up to his lights; but beg my
readers to- remember that in many
lands there are other customs than ours
regarding the Sabbath and it's obliga-
tions. Here the people do not reserve
their outward piety for that day alone,
but go to church every day in the year;
and look upon the seventh day as one Of
recreation and amusement, after morn
| ing service has been regiliously attend
ed.
| This interesting Cure has another
house in the adjacent village Of Chirca,
his proper home, wherein we breakfast
ed in course of our journey, when the
master was absent. Such queer
abode it is, the. living rooms above, the
animals stabbed, below, the walls of the
patio painted with life-sieze soldiers in
scarlet and blue, rampant lions with
yellow names and emerald eyes, and
other striking devices. Under bench
in the room where we breakfasted OBJ
served a suit of arnor, breast plate,
helmet and all, which had probably be-
longed to some crusading ancestor.
There were scraps of wonderful tapes
try on the walls, and rare old pictures,
though the floors were bare and the
furniture of the simplest character.
Among pile of books, Catholic Breva-
trium, and ponderous tones in Greek
and Latin, were many specimens of
modern literature in nearly every Ian
lguage but English, including NJ Zola's
--latest and nastiest. How out Of place
tine handsome Cure must leok amid
Isuch surroundings, and what an exam
pie he affords of the effect of education,
Iof having eaten of "the fruit of the
tree of the knowledge of good and
levil," or perhaps of the phrase, "a lit
tie learning is a dangerous thing!" His
lmother, whom we naturally misto0k for
q servant, in a dirty black cotton dress
60 =, f,l.k L.
head-did not speak during our stay,
but sat on a rude bench absorbed in
smoking cigarette after cigarette.
j Chirca is the most picturesque viii
llage have yet seen, perched on an
loutstretched arm of the Andes, with
lofty heights on every hand. Its beau
tiful old church, inciosed within wall
as high as itself, with a huge wooden
lgate facing the plaza, is surrounded
by luxuriant garden of roses and or
Iange trees. The main church, which
has now mostly fallen into disuse ex-
lcept by Indians, who straggle in to say
] their prayers, has @some remarkable
images. The one which receives most
lattention Is figure Of Christ, about
-four feet high, attired in white cotton
Mother Hubbard Z with one foot pro-
itruding, the great toe Of which has
ACTUALLY been worn of by the kisses Of
4 worshipers Anothsss image represents
Christ about three feet high and nearly
| as broad, attired in magnificent cloth
of-gold gown with long train, and on
the head mass Of real hair, yellow,
falling below the knees. The pride of
the place is in an upper hall of the
church and reached by an outside stair
way, in which worship Is conducted on
iall siesta days. It's altar is completely
covered with pure silver beaten and
carved into various rude designs. Be-
fore 1t hangs a splendid curtain of
cloth-of-gold and upon it are several
llife-size figures most richly dressed and
blazing with jewels. The Virgin is par
lticularly gorgeous, having Jewels
wrought all over her white satin robes
land on her head tall golden crown
lthiekly set with diamonds and eme-
raids, the whole ercireled by an enor-
nous halo which resembles the half of a
lcartwheel, the spokes turned outward,
all of Bolivian gold: -
| FANNIE r WARD