Washington standard. [volume] (Olympia, Wash. Territory) 1860-1921, 1903-11-27


that we had looked for the last time
upon that marvellous passage which
connects the Atlantic with the Pa
clfic. The scenery during the whole
length of the Straits is of great inter.
est. The mountains rise one above
the other from the waters edge. Hillt
OF enchanting green stand at the feet
OF snow clad peaks and bare granite
rocks.
On Monday, March 5th, we entered
Smyth's Channel. The passage lead
ing from the Straits of Magellan to the
island Of Chloe is divided into three
channels-Smyth's, Mesier and Sarmi.
ento. At its widest part it measures
six or seven miles-its narrowest part
only forty yards. By this time, how
ever, it had become the general con-
viction that labyrinth, of which Cap.
tain Winsor had not the clue, was an
hypothesis contradictory of all the
fundamental laws Of the human mind
The highest point of land here is
Mount Burney, which has an elevation
Of fifty three hundred feet. The hills
and mountains on the shore of this
passage have an average height greater
than those of the Straits. This part
OF our voyage excelled everything we
had yet seen, in grandeur and beauty.
1t winds in such manner that we
seemed to be during nearly the whole
route in a lovely lake. You find your.
self in beautiful broad basin of blue
water, surrounded by mountains and
dotted with little isles-perfect little
Edens of shrubs and flowers. You
look north and south-yOu can see no
opening, but as you advance the walls
recede. The fair Miss j says the
waters opened TO the Israelites, but
the mountains to the Yankee women.
Puerto Bueno was our first harbor
after leaving the Straits. Only poet
could do justice to the glory and
beauty of the scene as l stood upon
the hurricane-deck and looked upon
the shadows of the hills in the still
waters, across which the moon had
woven a bridge of light. Tuesday, the
9th, differed only in an increasing
mildness Of temperature from the pre-
ceding day. We were on deck nearly
the whole day; in fact, it is our custom
to live out of doors. The second night
we passed in Eden harbor. No one
could deny the appropriateness of the
name. Some gentlemen went on shore
and added the charm of great bon
fire to the scene. Our California
friend was among these. Next morn
ing l heard little lady assuring him
that she had been in a state of great
terror, lest the Patigonians should
find him of so agreeable flavor that
they would forget to extend the cour-
tesy OF slice to his fellow passengers.
Wednesday, the 7th, we arose at an
early hour, that we might not loose
the sunrise in So lovely a region. We
were approaching the narrowest part
of the passage, and wished to witness
its thridding. When we remember
the shoals laid down upon the chart,
whose existence we should never sus-
pect. and our friend Mr. LIS account
of the cannibslism of the Patagonians,
W. "OtC oOOhb W tACuiOiCs uO zap
tain's unclouded face. as he turned his
eye a moment from the prov OF the
vessel. reassured us. For myself, /
confess to sharing the measureless
faith in the captain, with one excep.
tion. He had informed me that the
absence of the ordinary hirsute ap-
pendage "on the top of his head" was
referable to sudden gale encountered
in previous voyage. Naturally skep.
tical found this too much for my be-
lief; but l remembered the astrono.
mer in Rasselas, and decided that
there is undoubtedly a minute region
in even the best developed minds. in
which the subjective becomes objec.
tive.
On Sunday morning, March l1th,
we entered what We supposed to be
the harbOr of Sofa. As we were en-
tering this port we saw, in the dis
tance, a steamer rapidly approaching
us. As she came near she fired blank
shot, and soon after a solid shot, which
shrieked along the water not far from
the side of our ship. began to feel a
little doubtful of their discipline and
hoped they were accurate in their aim.
Our ship came to anchor Immediately.
A boat was sent from the Spanish
man Of-war-for such was our chal-
lenging party. Our neutrality was as.
certained, and we were informed that
we were not at Sofa, but at Carovel, a
little town about six miles from Sofa.
Flag statutes we're interchanged by the
man-of-war and the Continental, fol-
lowed by hearty cheers. We were de-.
lighted with the idea OF being block
ade.runners. After little we steamed
up again, and in short space were in
the harbOr OF Sofa, having obtained
permission to purchase as much coal
as we desired. Sofa is most wretch
ed little Chilian village. twenty seven
miles from Conception. 1t is COM
posed OF one-story houses; the streets
are unpaved and totally destitute of
trees or any form OF vegetation. Coal
mines are near the village, and there
are smelling furnaces for reducing the
copper ore, shipped from farther up
the coast, to marketable condition.
Both these sources OF wealth are un.
der the direction of an Englishman, 80
that there is quite little settlement
OF them at the lower village.
The Rev. Mr.. Gardiner, a mission.
airy OF the Church of England, is es-
tabllshed here. His house is back of
the upper village and com mands a fine
view OF the sea. We we're received
with great cordiality by this gentle.
man and his high-minded lady, whose
earnest and intelligent conversation
LETT the most favorable impression on
our minds. We can not doubt thew
are doing a good work and proving
themselves true children of our Com.
mon Father. They experienced con.
siderable opposition during the earlv
part OF their stay here, but they have
gradually gained the confidence and
allection of the people. They described
theipeople as careless and imnrov;dert