The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1903-09-05

gown Of next season must come from the
hands of an expert.
ends, crochet buttons and all widths and
varieties OF fringes, silk, Jet, and STEEL ara
to be revived. Wool embroideries are the
high class thing in that class of trimmings.
They come in bands and ornaments, In
a mingling Of colors in Oriental effect. Where
lace is usee it will often match the color of
variety. The peacock effects in color and
form are also in high favor in braiding and
embroidery. At fashionable fete in Paris
cock green and Blue paiettes the tran train pr re-
producing all the colors of the bird.
The changes in the sleeves. like those
Of other parts of the dress. are gradual but
steady. The unders!eeve effect is paving the
way for the long. soping shoulder that be-
longed to our grandmothers gowns. To
match that, bodice trimming will slip lower
on the corsage, and that peculiar falling loft
erect that we see in old daguerrotypes will
before long be in vogue.
The first token Of this oncoming style is
seen in the pushing up of the puff from tho
wrist toward the shoulder. Some French
models sent over have, in fact, the well-de-
fined shoulder puff that was worn forty years
ago in the days Of hoop-skirts and berthas.
Tho fuller skirts, however, have the plain
stretches that were set off by the old-fash-
| Toned crinoline, but their stiffening of to-day
| is got by the use of hair cloth and other
| stiffening fabrics. What is true of dress
| terials is true of these interlinings; many
! of them are called by the same name, but
! they are practically different fabrics. The
| hair cloth, for example, of to-day is vastly
| improved over that in use the last time it
was employed Featherbone is already used.
1t, is applied to wash dresses by being run
| in casing. 1t edges founces, holding them
out for the full effect
..In millinery for fall and winter wear the
| high-crowred hat in the big shape and the
| turban in the small shape the favorites.
4 In garnitures. shaded effects will be much
used for the expensive hats. Long ostrich
piumes are now dyed in patches showing in
/ one plume perhaps 1--WE tones of the samt'
color. They will shade from deep Burgundy
red thru to light pink, from Havana
| brown to a pale champagne tint, from blue
| to hyocnth blue. The mauve and violet shad-
| ings are particularly, rich and effective.
millinery, but thu bird lovers need not de-
/ spair, for these trimming birds are made III
Paris, and never sang song.
Stuffed birds have come to be regarded as
/ tasteless by French miliners, as they can
not be handled with at all the same ease and
| effect that the made bird can. The wings
bird are pliable and easily bent to follow
| crown or bend around hat rim. The featn-
| ers Of common birds killed for food or be-
cause they are nuisances are used to MAKE
/ these birds.
Tho much criticised heron's egret will not
| be seen in millinery after the first OF the
4 eur, the Milliners' association having come
4 to an agreement with the Audubon society TO
tina. effect. Aigrettes, however, Will be seen
whose use will not violate this agreement. II
| is found that peacock and other common
l
| cate almost perfectly the egret. Coqus
| plu,nes are to be very much used. Beauti-
full specimens are shown rivaling IN exquisite
finish the best ostrich plumes Maranout
| feathers, too, will be- popular and beautiful.
and costly feather capes of this and other
varieties will be worn by those who can AFFORD
them A new fluffy skin, something like chin
chi:la. is decided novelty in millinery. It
is called chayas skin, and is applied like fur
and marabout.
On furs the stole effecS is still the most
esteemed The new fur. the moleslin, will
he extremely fashionable and much worn.
1t is nickel gray in color. toning well with
| many dress goods. 1t will be used as trim
ming, and for collars end muffs. Tho skins
4 are so small that their use for jackets will
! be a decided luxury. This popularity OF
the moleskin has been foreshadowed for some
1 time, and the Russian fur dealers have been
clever enough to store up the fur for the
last two years. New the world must have 1t,
1 and 1t must buy of Russia chiefly, tho in
Holland and England the skins have also ac-
cumulated. Nothing of course can supersede
i sables Ii the fur list. They must always
come first. Chnchilla, too, is another striped
effect whose beauty continues to be appre-
ciated. It is delicate and costly fur and its
use must be confined to the fortunate few,