Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-02-07

ITO make good chowder and have it quite nice
nlspense with sweet marjoram, parsley and spice:
Mace, pepper and salt now wanted alone
10 make the stew eat well and stick to the bone
Some pork Is sliced thin and put into the pot, &C."
Thus begins an old recipe for chowder.
dated 1884. And even in those DAYS there
seemed to be a diversity of opinion as well
as tastes. For the verse goes on to say. In
reference to cooking the pork, some saw
you must turn 1t. some say you must not"
But all agree that 1t must be added to the
chowder after all the other ingredients des-
ignated are placed in layers in the pot
Potatoes must be placed in the bottom,
and in order to "eat slick must be sliced
quarter Of an inch thick. The crackers (ship
biscuiD must be split open and given a
soak" The writer assures US that If we
will add all ingredients in regular rotatio
we will have a dish fit for the best of the
nation.
Chowders are generally classed among
soups but are in reality sailors fish stew
OF very ancient origin.
1t has never ceased to be a very popular
dish with all who become acquainted with
its merits. In the hands Of various cooks
quite ignorant Of the real meaning of
chowder, 1t has undergone many changes
and alleged improvements and we have now
as many kinds of chowder as We have re-
l1gions. We associate clam choWder with
New England and coast cookery; and I'M
doubtedly the boatmen do prepare this
typical marine dish better than the lands
man.. Necessity suggested the addition OF
fresh fish to the sailors everlasting dish of
salt fat pork, pota toes, onions. ship biscuit
and water. which became very monotonous
on their long sea voyages. They required an
occasional change in the flavor of the dish
as we'll as the addition, for healths sake, of
fresh animal food, and fresh meats were,
Of course, out of the question during the
greater part of their voyages on the seas
highway. Thus originated chowder the
| name probably suggested to the sailor, If
not borrowed, from the Chinese chow-chow,
a mixture.
Chowders are tempting and appetizing
and when their use is not mistaken they
are very economical. They are made of
cheap materials, that are at the same time
very nutritious. Their food value Is con-
siderable, and they must be regarded as
stews when arranging menu; although 1t
is quite proper to serve them as first or
separate course corresponding to soup, when
other viands are few and proportionately
low in nutritive value. But they can in no
wise answer the purpose of dinner soup
which is intended merely an Introductory
to the meal and intended to prepare the way
for solid and more slowly digested foods.
Although the chowder Is considered meat
course in itself, a soup must not be served
with the same meal, for obvious reasons.
French Fisherman's Chowder.
Put quarter of cup of butter or good
clarified dripping in stewpan, and when
melted add three ounces of sifted -four and
stir until smooth and bubbling. then cool
and add quart of stock or water, cut the
meat carefully from founder or other fish
of firm flesh and put the bones and trim
mings in the soup with a bay leaf. two
cloves. a teaspoonful Of essence Of anchoyy,