Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-06-13

am quite sure. They were taken first by
our driver even before the start who re-
peatedly perjured himself by declaring that
he had not even seen them, and they were
found slowed away in his own private lug
gage. consisting OF a grain sack; then at
every stop they we're regarded with long
ing and many times found by US to have
been partly disentangled from the luggage.
At Murree, though we kept the closest
watch upon them. one of them was missing
when we were about to start, and again I'M
earthed from the costume of the new driver,
VINO happened to be using 1t as a sash.
Three times more did we wrest one or the
other of those ropes from either the driver
or the assembled crowd, and great was our
triumph when after dashing into the small
town of Baramoula at mad pace, we got
out and counted our belongings, to find
that not only were t.ley intact, at least as
to number, but our two ropes were also to
be seen hugging the luggage closely in their
lengths We drove until 10 that first night,
part of the time in the faint light of new
moon and its attendant evening star The
trials with horses were never ending. At
one place they refused absolutely to go, but
finally, after the men, by pushing the tonga
against the creatures, succeeded in start
Ing them they flew along the whole
six miles at a hair-raising pace Another
time one of the pair had blind staggers
poor beast, and after threate the driver
with dire English vengeance we succeeded
In convincing him that another pair must
be brought, and brought they were after
a wait of half an hour. The drive COM
pared to that over the Caucasus was wilder
In scenery and there were many more
snow mountains t. be seen. For the great
er part of the way the road winds in and
around the huge mountains and along in
the path of the wild little river Thelum,
which rushes madly through deep gorges
winds and twists and foams among the
huge boulders in rather a terrifying way
The Wall Gave Courage.
There is low stone wall along the edge
of the narrow road, so that it is really
not dangerous, but it gets on ones nerves
bit after two long days of it, with a
deep gorge and the river on one side and
wall of rock on the other. The trees are
wonderful! Huge frs and deodars and
evergreens of all varieties. We spent the
first night at Kohala, a most romantic lit
tie place, perched on steep bank of the
Thelum. and consisting only of the Oak
Bungalow and few native mud houses
"A landslide, even a small one, would
carry away the little town in less than no
time Although as late as 10 the coolies
VINO, we have determined, sleepeth not,
rose as If by magic, and our goods and
chattels were shouldered by a bakers
dozen of them, and we all wound our way
up steep little path. through the matched
town and into the rest house. which proved
to be clean, and where we found passa-
bly, good dinner awaiting us. The second
night we spent at Uri, which is small
green valley which one comes upon sud
denly, after many hours of widest posi-
bic scenery, and comes upon with great
surprise. The third morning we started
OF with great rush. and ran into a post
with a violence which nearly fatally in
Jured our tonga, whereupon we instantly
demanded a new driver, and after a little
demur, subdued by rage on our parts, we
succeeded in getting one, who looked as II
he had his senses about him. and started
once more on our last days drive. We had
noticed all the way along the beauty of
the men, especially as we approached the
valley, for the Kashmiris are noted for
their fine figures and beautiful faces, as
well as for their thieving propensities, for
they are inveterate thieves. Our native
house boat-"dunga"-was to meet U.S. fur
nshed and provisioned, at Baramoula and
we passed through that fiat little town with
hardly glance at it, so eager were we to
see the boat
Like Noah's Ark.
AS we approached the river Thelum.
which here becomes a broad, peaceful
looking stream, we saw long rows of boats
some Of them wooden dungas, long, slim,
pointed boats. very low in the water and
with hideously painted roof and sides, very
much like the "Noah's Ark" Of ones child
hood. and native dungas, the same shape
exactly. but with roof and sides of thick
mats made of large rushes, and a roof
which can be raised every morning and
propped up with forked poles, changing the
whole shape and expression of the boat
The usual number Of coolies appeared the
instant we arrived at the river bank, and
the usual clamor began, and we wound our
way across the grass and under the bending
willows, followed by at least fifteen tall,
stalwart beings, wrapped in blanket chud-
das, each Of whom carried one package
only. There lay our dunga, with its fresh
rush mats. our home for the next month,
and we were met at our front door by the
head boatman, a very handsome young
with tall and vigorous figure
and the frankest and most open counte-
nance. which seemed to belle the reputation
Of his race. With a polite "Salaam, Mem
Sahib," as he touched his forehead he pre-
sented the letter from the agency at
Srinnggur, from which we had engaged
the boat, and then motioned to the re-
naming six of the crew. who proved to be
his four brothers, mother and one servant,
and after a glance Of satisfaction at their
fine and handsome figures and faces we
stepped over on to the deck and entered
MARGARET STERLING