Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-04-25
WASHTUB DRESSES
Linen Dresses That Can Be
Easily Washed.
WHITE PIPINGS AGAIN
BOX AND STITCHED PLRATs, SLOT
SEAMS AND TuoKs.
Yoke Effects in Skirts That Continue
To Be Extremely Tight
Fitting.
WHITE PIPINGs AGAIN

With the idea of encouraging the wearing
of linen linen dress ball was held in Bel
fast Ireland, late last month. No such in
centive is needed in this country. Linens
capabilities for elegance, as well as dura-
bility, were recognized several seasons ago,
and this summer frocks for every occasion
are fashioned in linen or mercerized fabrics.
Although many of them are too elaborate
to be intrusted to any one but French
cleaner, the simpler varieties may be sent
to the washtub. Nor will their ironing be
a difficult task.
Since the heaviness of the fabric pre-
cludes ruff1es or ruchings, the general eff
fects are tight-fittng in the extreme. The
woman with good figure is in her element.
Never has she appeared more sweet and
charming. But her less fortunate sister
need not despair. By skillful manipula-
ton of the yoke effects and fiaring tiounceS
now in vogue she may conceal some of her
deficiencies.
The waists of these linen suits have con-
siderable variety, though the general lines
are similar. The yoke may be long or short,
round pointed or bizarre in shape, but it is
almost uniformly finished with a piping of
a contrasting color. white is piped with
black or vice versa. pale blue or green
has a piping of white and black stripe.
Plaid pipings are extremely fashionable. A
commngled scarlet, blue and vivid green.
Red pipings and cordings will be much
worn, to match the red hats and parasols.
Slot seams are also inlaid with color or
with plaids.
Blouse waists. whether with a yoke or
without, are diversified by pleated or box
pleated fronts, slot seams or stitched
pleats. Small buttons are almost invariably
used in connection with the slot seams.
Stitched straps and bands are also used in
tailor made effects. The bands or tabs are
garnished by groups of small buttons.
Piped With White.
Inserted vests do not promise to be wide
~ popular and, therefore, will be used by
those who wish to escape the commonplace.
They may be white or of contrasting
color to match the pipings. The overlap
ping blouse looks we'll with, the simpler
cording for an edge, though heavy lace
and insertions will be used for this purpose
in the more elaborate gowns.
1t seems strange, but embroideries Of
nainSook or lawn are seldom seen in con-
nection with the seasons linen dresses
The lace and insertion used is of the heav-
lest This Is necessary, II the material is
to be cut away beneath Them flmy lace
would appear ridiculous. Imitation tor
chon or Irish laces are practicable in these
cheaper gowns. -sz- l.
Though the majority of the sleeves are
tucked i'm clusters, they may follow the
general scheme of the blouse, being pleated
or box pleated, with slot seams or cordings
They are invariably tight fitting to point
below the elbow, and thence they widen
gradually to small puff at the hand
Nothing extreme Is permitted in these
linens, SO, that the huge pouches at the
hand are entirely wanting. The cuffs are
simple, from two to four inches in length,
and trimmed to match the rest Of the
waist. A few are irregular in shape, run
ming up on the outside of the depth of six
inches and in the inside to only three In
these cases the puff is entirely lacking and
the effect extremely tight fitting.
The Yoke Effect.
The salient feature in most of the linen
skirts is the yoke effect. In many cases
1t is produced by the application of stitched
bands or folds, either running horizontally
or tapering to a slight point in the front.
More often the yoke is an actually and is
continued down the front in narrow
panel. This combines the appearance Of
well rounded hips with slenderness. The
yoke and panel are edged with cording in
a contrasting shade. The panel effect may
be repeated at intervals entirely around
the skirt, but it must be skillfully fash
toned or the result after washing is de-
plorable. Below the plain yoke the skirt
generally falls away in clusters of tucks.
These are continued to within six inches
or the hem, whence the gOOQS, released,
flows in natural founce.
A costume in white butchers linen has
the blouse tucked down for three inches
from the shoulder seams, giving yoke Ell
feet. The tucks are in clusters, each group
finished off by a stitched strap placed hOri-
Zontally. There is a box seam down the
front, ornamented with small black but
tons in groups of threes The same trim
ming is used on the yoke straps and cuffs.
The skirt has the yoke and panel effect
dow no cont Tha a6p Of a
ornamented with groups of the buttons.
Another white linen frock has yoke
which gives an irregular tab or panel eff
feet Three of these rounded tabs are on
the front of the waist, and one extends
down over each sleeve. All are edged by a
black and white cording
In the skirt the panel effect is secured
by extending the yoke in panels SO narrow
as to have the appearance of tabs These
cover the seams to within six inches OF the
hem, where they end in a point. The skirt
beneath is box-pleated under each tab, thus
giving flare at the bottom.
Blue and White Trimming.
A third costume in blue linen has a triple
row of blue and white striped cording for
trimming. The narrow cape collar extend
ing from the shoulder seam is continued
down the front in a broad box pleat, and is
edged with the triple cording. The skirt
yoke is continued in a front panel, edged
by the triple cording. The skirt has triple
flouncing, with so little flare as almost to
give the effect of folds
These simpler gowns are none of them
collarless, as the high severe collar COM
ports better with their general simplicity.
A lighter touch is given by the fancy turn
overs, corded or garnished with buttons,
with which they are invariably supplied.
Those with single tab extending several
inches below the collar find favor.
The more elaborate, lace trimmed frocks
have wide lace insertion, OUTLINING the front
panel and giving the skirt yoke effect. Yak
lace is suitable for such use When banded
on the sleeves, with the goods cut away be-