The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1903-11-06

IureSQue. Running uoMH through the
heart of Chilli in a southeasterly direc-
ton, the snowy peaks Of the Andes are
constantly in view-a broad, irregular
line of white against the bluest skies I
ever saw; while snow-shrouded Aconca-
qua. the Ioftiest mountain of the three
Americas, is visible the entire distance.
After leaving the Valparaiso station
never by the remotest chance on sched-
ule time, but as likely to be several
minutes too early as an hour or more
too late-the road runs for several miles
along the edge of the bay, close to the
gray rocks against which the waves are
dashing, while gulls and curlews circle
screaming overhead. In one place the
hills trend down so closely to the shore
that there is barely room for the track,
and in stormy weather the car windows
are often sprinkled with spray of the
surf.
The first stopping place is called Vino
del Mar ("Vineyard of the Sea'O pro-
nounced Veen-yo, a suburban town
where the wealthiest people of the coun-
try com to spend their summers. 1t is
the Long Branch of Chilli, by far the
most elegant and fashionable resort in
all South America, not excepting Petro-
polls and San Paulo, near Rio de janet
TO, those former seats Of royalty during
Dom Pedro's time. Many Of the citizens
of Valparaiso and Santiago, and even of
the far south, own splendid establish
ments in Vino; and In times of peace
the president OF the republic spends
there a part of each year. 1t is in no
sense commercial place, but reminds
one of some of the popular resorts in
California, or on the Atlantic coast, and
along the shores Of the Mediterranean.
Graceful cottages and pretentious man.
sions are set in marvellous gardens of
fruits and flowers. There are lovely
walks and drives and lounging places
and unrivaled bathing facilities; and
an immense hotel, wherein it is the fash
ion, especially on Sunday, for parties
coming out by train from Valparaiso,
to breakfast about midday. A great
many English people reside in Mino,
therefore it goes without saying that
there is a fine race course, and that
horseback riding is greatly INDUCED in
by both ladies and gentlemen. Mo-
where in the world can better society be
found and the dinner parties, high teas,
lawn fetes and kettle drums are like a
bit of London life transferred to this
remote corner.
| There are numerous villages between
Valparaiso and the capital, but only
| two Of size and consequence. They are
/ n I0fn
stations swarms of ragged men and wo.
men are always collected when the train
stops, with fruits and flowers to sell
Such gorgeous bouquets one sees no
where else in Chilli. They are arrang6
in hugh, pineapple-shape punches, of.
ten larger than an ordinary water
bueket-some composed entirely 81
sweet scented violets, others all roses
] or all pansies, or of mixed floWers-eve
Try one Of them put in the same un
Igraeeful shape and surrounded by {
vast circle of scalloped paper Lazy a.
1 these bedraggled traders look, there ar,
no fools among them. Step out upor
the platform to purchase bouquet, ant
every one of them sizes you up in tn.
twinkling of an eye. Therefore thy UNI
blushingly demand five dollars for TIL,
over-grown bunch Of violets, land |
would be well worth 1t If grown In {
northern greenhouser,s but will taxi
twenty-five cents for its counterpart
without murmur from native custo
1ner who Is posted on local prices. Chill
ian flowers seem to be particular,
short-lived. The hot sun withers then
Immediately: the enterprising bouque
vendors plunge those that have failed Il
sell during the day into the neares
stream, and palm them off as freshl.
picked on unwary passengers by tn,
night train, who are deceived by ti1ei
dying fragrance, but cannot see thei
dilapidation in the dim light.
Some of the hamlets along this roat
are as quaint as their names. There il
Llalllai, pronounced Yi-yD, where yol
take breakfast or supper, according t.
the train you happen to be on; ant
'Thal-Thal, where you may have a. cul
of hot tea or glass of milk, chichi o
whiskey, and a sandwich or cigarette
according to your taste and sex. Thei
there is Linanche, with it's beautiful
gardens and orchards, where man,
families of the middle class, who canno
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