The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1903-11-18
DUCK. via and Tame.


Among the Web-footed fowls the duck
holds a conspicuous place. and at this
season of the year the wild duck IS a
great resource of the cook and the cpl
cure who prefers the richer, dark-meat-
ed birds to those producing an excess OF
white meat. The wild duck called mai
lard (anas boschas) is the largest Amer
lean wild duck and is the original OF
our common or tame duck OF the same
name and markings.
In its wild state 1t pairs, but When
domesticated loses this characteristic OF
it's wild nature with many others, al
though the female retains some Oh It's
shyness. as shown in the disposition 10
nest in out of the way and secluoeo
places.
The mallard holds place among the
water fowl similar to that OF the prairie
hen among the varieties OF the grouse
family. 1t is the heaviest heshiest' Ten
derest and in a general way the most
valuable Authorities tell US that the
mallard should be well hung before II
is dressed and always roasted; ana also
remind us of the fact that the graz
secret In roasting them successfully IS
in the basting; this should be very ire
Quent and thorough Tne COOKING ol
wild ducks is different from that re
ol1ired for the tame bird. The process IS
never carried so far as is necessary Tor
the latter. The wild duck is preferred
rather under done-not the least degree
too we'll done. The time given by diff
ferent cooks varies considerably, &C
cording to age of the bird and lndiVld-
ual taste. Some give from Is to 20 min
utes, with frequent basting with butter
for young mallard duck. Other cooks
consider that the duck is properly cooked
in from . to 80 minutes.
Domestic ducks must be well done.
Both wild and tame mailards are
frequently employed in making the
West Indian pepper-pot, form of rag
out with cassareep. In fact, they are
suitable for treatment in many differ-
emit ways-equally good praised with
esDagnole or en- daube.
The duck is a gross feeder, eating
animal and vegetable substances Of all
kinds. For this reason the duck
should be fed entirely on selected food
for some weeks before killing, their
flavor being greatly improved, as well
as their flesh made more wholesome
eating.
THE CANvAs-BACK DUCK.
The royalty of ducks is the canvas
back, the joy of the sportsman and
pride OF the epieure. "Canvas-ba back
Henry Irving on his first introduction
to this delicate American bird. A
story is told of a celebrated writer
novelist-who visited the States not so
other engagements in order to dine
with a gourmet twelve consecutive
Gays on canvas-back ducks and cham
payne Small wonder that he saw
ously tinted glasses after that.
The delicate flavor and rare and
melting juiciness so highly priced in
the canvas-back duck is attributed to
its feeding entirely upon the wild eel
cry, as the root of the plant valisneria
is called. The beds of this plant are
located along the Chesapeake bay,
and the flesh of the canvas back duck
is in prime condition only when the
bird subsists entirely on this vegeta-
rian diet At times the canvas-b back
induces in fish, which renders it's flesh
anything but palatable and relegates
his serene highneSs to a very common
plane, for without the flavor of the
celery the much-coveted SAVIOR is not in
the meat. The canvas-bacE duck may
be cooked like other wild duck, but
nearer to the fire. for one must lose
as little of the juice and blood as pos
sible, and 1t requires rapid cooking to
prevent the fat and liquid from run
ming out. He must be browned-crisp
almost to burning-and served plain,
with only salt, pepper, and crisp, white
celery sticks. It's own crimson gravy
is considered sufficient sauce by the
epicpre, who considers it barbarous
treatment to deluge this unapproach-
able bird with gravies sharp sauces
wine, jelly, or condiments.
In order to enjoy the canvas back
duck We are also advised to grill him,
ferve immediately-as 1t must not be al
lowed to cool-accompanied by celery
mayonnaise and followed by very dry
champagne frappe. This is a course
for a king" remarks our cOnrOisse11r
leaving us in doubt as to whether none
but king deserves such fare. or. what
is more probable. only those of kingly
estate may indulge in such extravaganl
1ancies.
THE REDHEAD DUCK
This duck ranks next to the canvas
back and is not infrequently substituted
Tor the latter, being cooked in the same
manner. Should you wish to eat wild
duck in perfection, try the two following
methods given by famous chefs: Split
a young canvas-back down the back.
place him in a heavy double gridiron
with the inside Of the bird next to the
fire; press down fiat with the other
part Of the iron, but do not bruise the
flesh. Let it cook over a strong, clear
fire for twelve or fifteen minutes, then
turn and expose the breast of the bird
to the fire just long enough to brown
the skin rich, even color, taking care
all through the cooking to lose as little
Of the juice as possible
TO ROAST WILD DUCK.
Or try this misunderstanding at a
rapid fire until crisp and brown afmost