The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-08-22
FIRST FALL HATS READY
DISPLAY Is VERY PLEASING, WITH A
VARIETY To SUIT ALL TASTES.
Turbans and TOques VIII BE Liked,
but Picture Hats Will BE Favored
by Young women.

of the fact that there are yet several weeks
of summer weather. milliners are busy
preparing their models and out-of-town
buyers are here by the score. 1t is TO be a
season of much beauty If one may judge
fairly by these first showings. and of really
splendid effects IN color. AS might have
been foreseen by any student of sartorlal
matters much purple will be worn. and
papal tendencies have been carried even to
the production of a hat with crown shaped
after the one worn by His Holiness alone.
Curious as it may seem, all great events
are reflected in dress. When King Edward
assumed the crown ermine became the rage.
Now that the world has been called upon
to mourn for wise Pope the purple that
was symbol of that mourning is being
made the color of fashion, its significance
utterly lost ard forgotten. The papal crown
is not likely to gain any considerable num-
Der of adherents. 1t is one of those novel;
tiles that come and go so hastily as barely
to leave their mark. Yet it is here, and it
seems to prove how every event of moment
is searched by the designers for material
with which to satisfy the ceaseless cry for
change. But purple. in all its richness and
splendor, is here and will be feature the
season through. 1t. browns and greens are
to be the predominant colors, although We
shall see all wine shades and blues. Vel
vets, of the new light sorts, are to be free
ly used, and when one remembers how SUI
perb Is purple in that material, the fact
becomes one to cause genuine pleasure.
Shapes show some radical changes, but
picture styles. Will hold for occasions of
dress, and turbans of various sorts are
shown fer street wear, while the ever-faith-
ful sailor is tc be found among the first fall
models.
Boats and torpedo shapes make the nov
elites in turbans and will be worn in many
materials and combinations. While not dis
similar, the torpedo is the more pointed of
the two, although both are narrow An ex-
ceedingly handsome one is made with a
crown of cream-colored plush and rolling
brim Of black chenille braid, and shows no
other trimming, but there are more elabo-
rate styles, that include the tips that are
to be almost universal. One of these last
combines crown of cream panne with
brlm or black velvet, shocked, and is fin
ished with two short plumes at the back
that droop over the hair TO the neck. The
black and white combinations are greatly
liked, and are both smart and practical in
asmuch as they can be worn with many
gowns. PlumeS or tips are seen upon almost
every handsome hat, whatever it's shape,
and in the case of the turhans almost uni
formly droop at the back. These boat and
ing, far more so than the wide shapes of
spring, and are rendered peculiarly grace
full by the dropping feathers
ALL SORTS OF MATERIALS.
All sorts of materials, or very nearly all
sorts, are used. Beaver crowns with brims
of fancy braid are shown and velvet, plush
and cloth all are used in various combina-
tons. A beautiful green turban is velvet
with the brim OVERLAND with OPEN work
braid in which are touches of gold; and
another, in brown, is made of chiffon vel
vet with the brim of the material shirred
and trimming of tips at the side. The var
iety offered is almost infinite. 1t would
seem that the designers meant to leave little
excuse for what is becoming or out of place.
Stirring and shocking both are much seen.
really elegant torpedo turban is of pur-
pie velvet the chiffon sort. and is shocked
both on crown and brim, then finished with
half plumes at the back, which are in all
shades of the color and are held by jeweled
pins A far simpler model is of brown felt
with the brim of velvet and shows only a
pOmpon of shaded yellows at the left side.
All the feathers are wonderfully beautiful.
Not even the most ardent audubonist OBJ
JectS to the lovely ostrich plumes, and by
far the greater number of the other sorts
are manufactured. What the Humane So
ciety has found it difficult to accomplish the
about. So long as effects could be obtained
from natural birds only they continued to
be slaughtered, sold and worn; but, when
such close replicas can be manufactured
as to deceive the most astute and sold at
far greater profits, why pursue the real
creatures further, why go to the cost of
robbing the woods? However, let the cause
be what 1T may, the fact remains and all
of us who have a tenderness for the feath-
cred creatures and revel in their songs may
well rest content
Other simple hats are shown in the broad
brimmed sailor shape and in toques that
suggest the turbans yet are not quite the
same in style. The sailor models are charm
ing for early autumn and, many of them.
lighter effect than when feathers are used.
An exceedingly pretty one in pearl-gray
beaver is trimmed about the brim with folds
of soft-fnished taffeta ribbon, one band of
gray, one of pale yellow and one Of pale
pink with bunch of blush roses with their
foliage at each side. The pink and the yell
perfectly with the gray, making the whole
color scheme a delight. Another Is of pur-
pie felt and is trimmed with full bands of
shaded purple ribbon and a long breast Of
purple at the left side. A quite different
model but one which still shows the broad
brimmed sailor shape, is in brown and con-
sists of maline and velvet ribbon combined.
The under brim is all Of the maline plisse
while the crown and outer brim are of the
ualine with loops of the velvet set In at
about their own width apart. At the left
nearly to the back, under the Drlm, Is a
soft marabout feather, in browns, that
droops over the hair and holding 1t are two
white crush roses. The maline and velvet
combined promise to make feature of early
hats and are charming. This one is de-
lightfully simple, but similar combinations
are shown in the picture models that are so
wonderfully fascinating worn by the women
whom they suit. But before telling you
of them 1 must not forget a white sailor
that would suit so many costumes and is so
appropriate for between seasons wear. The
brim is a band of white ostrich trimming
and at the left side rise three white tips:
that is all, but the effect is delightful and
the hat as chic as anyone need desire.
BEAUTIFUL PICTURE HATS.
Picture hats are really sumptuous in their
beauty More velvet than any other mater
ial is used, but 1t is of lighter sorts that do
not mean weight. Combined with the al
most ubiquitous plumes it is superb and
gives all the effect of richness without be-
coming a burden. AS safe general rule,
crowns are more pronounced, are higher
and take definite form, but the broad roll
ing brim remains. In some instances Ii
turns back from the face. showing the
pompadour in others 1t rolls up at the
side, but uniformly ii is cut off at the
back, the hat fitting closely at that point.
A most elegant model Is OF chiffon velvet
in the real purple that Is, in itself, so splen-
did. The shape turns up at the left side
and forms point at the back. The velvet
on the brm is closely shirred and. curling
round the crown. its long tip falling over