davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1903-04-12

of the most vivid tones, and the bouf-
FAINT effects attained by gauging.
Gauging is the despair of the stout
woman, the joy of the too, too slender
and the real test of the modiste's
ability 1t must be employed with
discretion by all, for, like the average
fad which springs suddenly upon
fashions horizon, it is being carried
to extremes.
For soft, clinging materials, like
mousseline de sole, crepe de chine
and albatross, it furnishes a pleasing
finish. With the heavier fabrics,
which do not lend themselves to full
ness, it is banal.
A dinner gown included in the
trousseau of a bride of the American
colony shows gauging in its most ar
tistic conception.
The material is white habitui silk,
combined with narrow insertions of
black and white silk lace. The cir
cuIar yoke of the skirt is formed OF
alternate rows of black and white In
sertion, running up to point In the
back. From this is hung the gagged
skirt, which is broken again, at
point about eighteen inches from the
foot, with another inset of the alter
nate black and white insertion. A
narrow gauging is used to give the
necessary flare to the foot of the
skirt, and the insertion running up In
the back gives a long, sweeping train
effect.
The yoke of the bodice is Of the
insertion in alternate rows, the lower
part of gagged silk. The pouched
vest is outlined by graduated stoles
of the insertion, edged with fiat folds
of black panne. Flat streamers of the
insertion, edged with the panne folds,
fall the length of the skirt in the back.
A dainty accessory, which VIII pc
worn with this costume, is a simple
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1903-04-12

shown in robe form, the skirt all made
to sewing on the belt. and with an I'M
cut piece for the bodice, may cost any
where from $65 to $500. The cheaper
dresses are not entirely of lace. The
upper portions of the skirt and the
larger part of the waists are general
ly of pearl-whte mousseline. Into
this glistening textile, than which
nothing could be more simple for al
tar use, Duchesse borders and sep
arate incrustations are introduced,
with sometimes a fine silk cord run
ming around. or through them, by way
of accentuation. These gowns, to
achieve the clinging effect desired for
mousseline materials, are built direct
ly upon silk.
Under the lace toilettes several
foundations of net are sometimes put
in several qualities, with the finest as
the top layer.
Lerer applique is a web much in
favor for wedding gowns, the model
often coming in a sort of low-cut
princess robe. The neck is filled in
with tucked tulle or plain net The
stock is modestly high and the sleeves
come to the waist.
A striking altar gown of lerer APP
plique is in robe form. fastening at
the back with small net-covered but
tons. The train is something short
er than the ultra fashionable length,
which is four yards. White tulle
shapes a simple yoke and shoulder
puffs for the bodice.
The veil provided for this gown is
of raw-edged tulle, in a courtyard
ly in the middle and punched at the
top of the head with a small coronal
of lace and orange blossoms mixed.
With silk. satin, crepe de chine. or
chiffon gowns. many of which will still
be seen, lace wells are de rigueur.
These are generally scarf shape, the
two ends narrowing sharply at the
bottom. with the middle perhaps a
yard and a half wide. An orange
spray or half wreath crowns these
wells, which are disposed after the
manner of the tulle wells.
The newest bridal shoes are of gros
grain silk exquisitely embroidered al
the vamp. They have high Louis
Quinze heels and lace with six eyelets
under fluffy lace rosettes.
Gloves are preferably of undressed
kid and to accommodate the placing
of the ring the mousquetaire wrist
portion is slit an inch or two higher
so that the hand may be Slipped
through without removing the glove
entirely.
The altar handkerchief. which mus
show border of fine lace, is carried
either in the belt, at the front of th'
bodice. or in the prayer book. Upor
even this trifing detail does thu
snoothness of a wedding ceremon,
sometimes depend.
Not the least pleasing feature of Z
church wedding party are the attend
ants who will precede the bride int
the holy edifce and set off her owl
splendors with their fineries. TIT
bride herself chooses bridesmaids AM
msid-of-honor frocks, and since every
body carries huge bouquet, and littl
children now form a part of thu
church cavalcade, the picture is some
times one Of poignant loneliness
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1903-04-12

"Maidens of honor" the little brides
maids are called. On their heads they
wear ribbon-tied wreaths and on their
small feet satin or silk slippers with
big bows.
A costume made for such an attend
ant is extremely childish in effect.
Apple blossom pink gros grain silk is
the material used, with the short skirt
perfectly plain and the low-cut bodice
trimmed only with a pointed bertha
of Irish crochet. Apple blossoms will
also be used for the head wreath and
the bouquet which will be tied with
pink ribbons, will be of the same
flower.
A gown for a bridesmaid of another
stylish bridal party will be of opal
mousseline, with furnishings Of
French lace and white louisine rib
bons. The lace is introduced in the
skirt in waved insertions, which, be-
ginning with a shirred hip yoke, ends
with a simple gathered flounce. Down
the skirt, at scattered intervals, run
the narrow ribbons, fastening at the
lowest insertion with dropping bows.
The baby bodice is of the Killed
mousseline, with the yoke and bottom
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1903-04-12
THE LILIES OF EASTERTIDE.

10! still adown the centuries they
blow,
Their chaliced cups filled to the curv-
ing brim
With scents of Spring and hottest mys-
teries,
With all the wonder of the need OK
Him.
Breathing new life, new hope to all tns
world,
Like choired seraphim they seem 10
sing
About one aureoled, who, from the
grave, -
Rises to prove Himself the promised
King.
Dumb choristers Of Resurrection JOY,
Stir bells forever Ginning OF TINS
skies.
God willed the lilies tell us of His son
When He their perfect beauty dlu
Anita Fitch.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1903-04-12
SAVANNAH MORNING NEWS: SUNDAY APRIL 12 1908

is of pale brown satin-finished cloth.
with a GALLON and embroidery trim
ming in brown and white. On the skirt.
this outlines a deep aounce, with ODD
tab pieces hanging here and there from
the band. The short-tailed coat belts
under a stole front, and the galloon and
embroidery collar, which decks the
shoulders, runs down with handsome
effect upon the sleeves. These show
the prevailing fullness at the bottom,
where the puff is pleated into a deep
embroidered cuff. Small tucks accom-
plish the desired snugness at the top of
the sleeves.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1903-04-12

ordered of modest field flowers. Daisies,
field carrots, field phlox and dogwood
are some of the wild blooms which
will be used. They will be mixed with
asparagus fern in the usual bridal bou-
quet way. More splendid flowers car
ried by other brides will be long-stem-
med bride roses the necessary dozen
tied together with satin bows with
long streamers.
AS to the Easter brides lingerie, the
edict has gone forth that it must be
entirely of washable materials. French
lawn is the texture most in favor for
this dainty underwear, which displays
the most fairy-like hand embroideries,
with fine lace trimmings. In sets of
four pieces to match-night gown,
skirt, chemise and drawers-all the
best things are seen, each set tied
up with ribbons and boxed in a tempt
ing way. The petticoats are fluffy, with
flounces, but the sacque chemises have
sometimes only an embroidered edge
and a row of perforations for the rib
bon draw strings.
Charming and inexpensive sets are
made of American lawn. with trim
mings of point d'esprit footing. The
lawn is of extra fineness, and, although
such suits are not always made by
hand. as are the others. If the models
are carefully chosen, they are good
enough for anybody. The stitching
must be even. the tucks tiny, the lawn
fairy fine, and the lace edgings selected
more for quality than quantity. With
such direction always in mind. remem-
Der also that more machine-made gar
ments can be bought for the same
money than handmade ones; and since
fastidious daintiness should be the
primal consideration, let the under por-
ton of the trousseau be lavishly sup
piled.
Several May trousseaux shown by
modish dressmakers include one or
more dresses of the new linen, superb
with lace and embroideries.
One such, in dead white, with insets
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1903-04-12

gance are also of the coarse linens,
whose stoutness permits their use for
even first spring wear. Collars with
stole ends of heavy embroidery enrich
them, with satin or silk pipings spar
ingly used and cord button ornaments
with swinging DANGERS. The sleeves
of such coats are loose in fit and pic
turesque in form, and, although many
cloth travelling cloaks are also seen,
the linen is considered the latest kind.
The going-away gown may be of
any material, provided it shows some
or all of the nav garnishings-lace, en-
broidery, passementerie, galloon.
A travelling frock seen at good shop
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1903-04-12

sleeves of the lace, which fit down over
the hands like mits. A puff of the
mousseline, just below the shoulders,
gives the necessary breadth at this
point More louisine ribbons, with
bows, garland the bodice.
A large hat, trimmed with flowers,
is a necessary detail for every brides
maid toilette for a church wedding.
New blossoms for their bouquets
are sunrise roses, hot-house eXotics
which show the dazzling pinks and
Colds of the new day. The foliage of
these rare flowers is in so dark
bronze as to seem almost black. The
roses themselves have a waxen and
somewhat unnatural look and are pre-
ferred in half-open bud form.
On the other hand, the bouquet of
the spring bride herself may express
a superlative simplicity, for, according
/ to fashionable florists. many have been
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1903-04-12

field grasses being combined with the
poppy blossoms.
Frocks made from point d'esprit
net and ribbon are very pretty for
afternoon functions. The net is used
in the form of graduated panels far
ing around the foot of the skirt and
separated by strips of liberty taffeta
ribbon. Medallions are appliqued on
either the ribbon or the lace. Such
a gown in pure white over white silk
needs no other trimming. One of the
best-known dressmakers is showing a
robe with alternate panels of pale
green ribbon and net, with point de
Venise medallions on the ribbon and
pearl trimming, but the simpler white
effects give more delicate results.
Paris is showing some little marvels
in the way of collarless jackets. With
a pale gray broadcloth, there comes
smart little Elton, whose round cape
collar and stole ends are overlaid with
Irish crochet, outlined with silk braid
and finished with silk fringes, six
inches deep. This is worn over
white silk bodice, with a fan-shaped
stock of chiffon and lace, which is
slipped outside the packet and gives
a final chic touch to the costume.
A tan-colored etamine over silk has
a jaunty bolero jacket laid in box
pleats caught with silken cord orna-
ments in a deeper shade of wood color.
The deep pelerine IS embroidered in
self-tones and finished with penda-
loques to match the cord ornaments
in wood color. The stitched girdle
shows the deep wood tones, and the
shaped cuffs, into which the bishop
sleeves are fulled. are embroidered in
the tone of the cloth. With a biscuit
colored broadcloth, the pelerine is of
guipure lace, and long lace pendalo-
ques are used as ornaments.
Pongee suits and coats have the
stole finish on short jackets, the stole
being overlaid with lace of rich APP
plique.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1903-04-12

of several sorts of lace cunningly COM
bined, will be used for afternoon recep-
tions. Linen wolfe is another smart
material, in the regulation linen shades
and almost gauze fine. White embroid-
cries and applications of white silk
flowers appear upon these novel text
ures, which come in box-robe form and
are pretty with stocks and belts of
white or colored satin.
Fifteen dollars will buy a linen wolfe
frock, only partly made, of course, but
of uncommon beauty.
Going-away costumes and their at
tendant wraps display all the tenden-
cies of the moment
Linen, in weaves as coarse as sack
ing and as stiff as leather, is employed
for box coats, which reveal the heavy
embroideries and silk cords and pas
sementeries everywhere observed.
Long coats of an astonishing ele-
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1903-04-12

popular tones for dressy spring wear.
The White costumes are quite gener-
ally tempered with dash of black.
A stunning costume of black and
white granite cloth has panels of Irish
lace, outlined by black velvet. The
Jacket is finished with a long stole of
the lace, edged with black velvet and
gathered at the ends with a long silk
ornament. The sleeves are of the
lace, fulled into a shaped cuff, from
which also depends a silken ornament.
Word comes from the authorities of
white broadcloth for street wear and
a gown for this purpose shows
slightly trained skirt laid in fat
Pinch pleats. The long coat flares
from a stitched belt and has a triple
collar finished with stole ends, from
which hang heavy silk ornaments.
The vest is of Irish lace, and the col
lar, belt and stole are finished with
applaqued medallions in Assyrian en-
broidery. which contains the most illu-
sive shades of turquoise blue, violet
and gold.
Some very dainty frocks are shown
for the dancing parties which will
round out the fading spring season.
A rose gown has for its foundation
pink peau de cygne, with a skirt yoke
of point de Venise and a gallon of
the same outlining the accordeon-
pleated flounce. The decollete bodice
is outlined with q lace bertha, caught
with a garniture of roses. Depending
from the latter is a. fringe of ribbon,
studded with small pearls to simulate
dew drops. The sash is composed of
ribbon streamers, each ending in a
half blown rose.
With this is carried a boa composed
of ribbons, finished with chiffon. For
get-me-nots are exceedingly popular
for this use. A striking brunette is
having a poppy boa made for wear
with a scarlet mousseline, feathery
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1903-04-12
BY HARRIET HAWLEY.

New York, April 1O.-Among the
notable features of dressy gowns
imported for spring wear may
be mentioned the collarless jacket
with it's elaborate trimming,
the extravagant use of pendeloques,
the bizarre combinations of cloth in
delicate colorings with embroideries
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1903-04-12

"A Cincinnati firm was called upon
to dismantle a lot of wood working
machinery which it had installed for
a firm in Sweden, says Worlds Work.
The operatives could not stand the
work-the speed was too high. The
feed had been gagged by the Ameri-
can scale. An expert reduced the feed
and after that all went well.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1903-04-12
DRESSY FROCKS FOR
THE STREET AND HOUSE WEAR

Gauging Tries the Soul of Stout Women and Peases Their
Slender SistersThe Coaress Jacket Often an EIabor
ate Accessory of DressJasper Pongee in Sivery Gray
Makes Striking Spring Toilette.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1903-04-12

stole of maline, combined with black
velvet. 1t is built from five hands of
maline ruching, less than two inches
wide, sewed on a plain foundation of
the maline and separated by black
velvet baby ribbon. The finish is an
eight-inch f1ounce of the maline,
headed with a ruching of the black
velvet ribbon.
Jasper pongee in a silvery shade of
gray is the fabric employed in another
gown in which gauging is the domi-
nant note. This skirt has a gagged
yoke fifteen inches deep in five rows.
From this the skirt flares out to the
hem like a deep founce, the effect be-
ing increased by the use of rows of
SILK braid to simulate the hem. This
braid shows black, white and silver,
and shimmers in exactly the same tone
as the pongee. The bodice is also
gagged and attached to a round yoke
of the silk braid, joined by fagotting.
The bertha is of gui-pure lace, dyed to
match the shade of the silk.
Another gray gown which shows a
ferfect match in fabric and trimmings
has been made for a June bride, who
will use it as her going gown.
The foundation is gray wolfe over
taffeta with fagotting of a beautiful
and intricate pattern, suggestive of
the Maltese cross. The collar and
yoke of the bodice are in one piece,
shaped closely to the throat, from
alternate bands of this exquisite fag-
citing and silk, and running, not
around the figure, but up and down.
The yoke is pointed in the back, and
depending from it is a fiat, scant cape
effect made of the fagotting and silk
bands. The vest is formed of wolfe
folds Joined by fagotting, which also
Stimulates girdle running from a point
half way up the under arm seam, to a
point at both back and front. The
seams of the sleeves, outlined by the
fagotting, are decidedly bouffant at the
bottom, where they are gathered into
shaped cuff formed of the alternate
bands of silk and fagotting
The skirt yoke was formed of fagot-
ting and silk bands, and the cores were
outlined by fagotting between folds of
the wolfe. The silk folds and those of
wolfe are very fiat, and the fagotting
has almost the effect of an inset.
With this will be worn a toque of
gray chip, trimmed with silver lace and
white osprey.
Several striking models in the fash
ionable shops show a peculiar combi-
nation of cloth, velvet and lace in the
skirts. Notably, there is gown of
| lightweight tan broadcloth, trimmed
with heavy band of velvet OVERLAND
with guipure lace. The collarless jacket
has stole front of the velvet and lace
and with it is worn a bodice built on
shirt-waist lines from pongee silk and
| antique lace.
Gray, tan, ecru and white are the
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1903-04-12
SPRING BRIDES ARE
DISPLAYING REGAL FROCKS

Brides of Easter Monday to Be Clad in Finest Lacerony
YAK for the Brides Mother--Lace Robes from sos to
S5oOLerer Applique for LoW-Cut Princess GoWnS-New
Bridal Shoes UndreSSed Kid Gloves
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1903-04-12

WONDERFUL BOOK
Is the Peoples Common Sense Medical
Adviser, paper covers. Sent free on
receipt of Fl one-cent stamps to pay ex-
pense of mailing only. Address DR..
r. v. Pierce Buffalo. n. Y.
Abilene weekly reflector. [volume] (Abilene, Kan.) 1888-1935, 1903-09-17
Children's School
Shoes.

Solid, sensible and dressy.
Children's Dongola Shoes Pat.
emit tips, lace or button En
sizes up to 8 per pair for. sew
Children's tine kid shoes pat
ent tips, dressy styles sizes OK
up to 8 for per pair. 500
Cbildren's heavy soles lace and
button, extension soles,
just the shoe for fall wear 40
sizes up to 5 for per pair. go
Child's Box Cali School Shoes.
This 10 the "Welmaid" line. Every
pair built for service and dressy
enough for any wear. The price
lie reasonable considering the wear.
Sizes 5 to 8 per pair ior.,.. A'~V
Sizes 81 to II per pair for. A'vV
Sizes III to 2 per pair for. .A'sV
Abilene weekly reflector. [volume] (Abilene, Kan.) 1888-1935, 1903-09-17

inch wosted filling cotton Dress Goods In good line
coongs suitable for Chidrens dresses and wrappers per
yard. ...... ~
81 inch brocades filing excellent quality and good
Inc OF shaues, $40
So inch brocades wool filing solid coors in blues Reds
greens and purple excellent fabric for the price, for ~
81 inch dagona wool filing solid coors, suitable for waists
dresses and wrappers ........... ........'A
large range Of fabrics in Grantees Cashmeres and Novelties q
splendid line Of qualities for s@
complete line Chevots Veheans Hair Novelties
in grays, blues, etc This consider Of the XXI
strongest lines showing for per yard only
Above SOC showing strong line Basket Weaves Came
HAIR Boulevard BrodcIoth Scotch Tweed Zbenes and Lusers
you goods Walking Skirt Dress Skirt Tailor Suit
other kind Of garment come and see
CORNER ENTRANCE
Abilene weekly reflector. [volume] (Abilene, Kan.) 1888-1935, 1903-09-17

A complete line OF Trunks,
Grips, Suit Cases, etc.. metal
covered trunks, all metal for so
Square top black trunx. en-.
ameled, we'll braeed aud
strapped for .....-S 48
Canvas covered trunks. black
steel trimming for.
No. 8 Gslvsnised bot. Boiler for go
No. 8 Copper Bottom Boiler for SO
No. 8 Copper Bottom extra
heavy for ....-..,. 80. ..lW
No. / Clothes Basket ali willow SO
No. 3 Clothes Basket for .... go
No. $50 Rival Wringer. wood
frame. warranted for year 3 80
Crescent Iran wringer for. 3 50
1oqnsrt Dish Pan for .,...... .26
IL quart Dish Pan for 49,. IS
Galvanized chsnbsr Pail. -. IS
lnpasnsa Chamber Psi. IS
Tslssuops lron. :. So up 70 oes
ipqasfi FIsrins Pan ....... IL
loquars calxsaisst Pfl 49,. -
Abilene weekly reflector. [volume] (Abilene, Kan.) 1888-1935, 1903-09-17

When you need this the place A lighted
modous room OF BY s with bother
our carpets Is shown pce where goods put test
msrehads scrutiny wca gVsrOom that's
Our motto is: Carpets sold here are sold at department
store low prices That's the advantage in buying carpets of
u.s. Make note of it.
Fancy COlOrsd Carpets new 80
pretty shades Msrcised q Others at - ~
I,g,.i. c.,s. a. ,.. IN Fancy RuEs daereut oo
GOOD lone rScS com shades 27T6I inches 90
1. rs.,. .s,..1.i -. Juts Rags heavy quality.
"a vs.-sr, a. F 90 fancy figure TxS6 inches M
Fancy Ingrnin Carpets n splsn- - W
did ooorS m Smyrna csatA m
able ssrPss io ysr.. soV d nsfngsd soKso iuehs@sVV
UFsrAiHs
Abilene weekly reflector. [volume] (Abilene, Kan.) 1888-1935, 1903-09-17
Stylish Hats from ----. CSC up to So. 90
Our Shoe Department,

All new fall Shoes are all here. We have q
the Shoe department more than usual thought
fall and we have one of the best selected Shoe st
in the county. One thing we have been very
ticular about and that is the QUALITY. All
new Shoes are made Of the very best Of Leaf
Solid Leather Insoles, Leather Counters and the
Oak Tanned outer soleS
The prices are lower than usual for we never
low anyone to undersell us on this line. Kemem
we guarantee all our Shoes and will see YOU
your moneys worth.
The daily morning journal and courier., 1903-12-19
aMamts.

oss ssnt : word for each inusrtisn: Ave cents Usra for . full week. ssvss timeA