New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1903-08-14
THE NEW ROME.
Evidences of Accommodation to the
Modern PROGRESSIVE Spirit.
Rome. August I.


easy to talk or TO write about the historic city.
whica has been the centre Of the worlds life
for 500 years. He is content to commune with
his own heart and TO pay in a reverent spirit the
tribute Of silence to the stored past, and on his
last evening to fling his penny in the fountain Of
Trevi in the hope Of returning to revive his
memories. AS my penny has brought me back.
and I have been enabled to stroll at leisure
morning and evening among the medieval pal
aces. the classic ruins and the historic churches
hoary with traditions, / am tempted, while
awaiting the result of the papal election, to Jot
down q few impressions of the changes wrought
IN the new Rome since my last visit. The feel
ing Of awe and wonderment which the grandeur
OF the immortal city inspires is quickened' not
deadened. by familiarity with the crumbling
masonry, the picturesque loneliness of the hills
and streets, and the melancholy aspects OF the
strife of ages but the secret is also learned that
Rome is eternal because it is constantly ADAPT
ing itself to new conditions and renewing Its
vitality. Far apart in time as the blocks OF tuta
in the remnant Of the old Servian wall may be
from the new Palace Of Justice, rising in the
Piazza Cavour, the law Of accommodation has
been IN continuous operation from the earliest
DAYS Of legendary Rome: and adaptability is the
principle of life which regulates the changes OF
q decade as we'll the transformations OF CEN
turtles.
Beginning with a minor detail. I note the dis
appearance Of beggars from the church doors
and the streets. This change has been wrought
in the course of few years by the enforcement
Of police regulations. 1t was discovered that
nendicants from every section of Italy swarmed
into the capital TO display their rags in front Of
the churches, and to humble their prayers and
compliments whenever a stranger approached.
Rome has been delivered from this pest by salu-
tary police administration. Thousands of beg
CARS have been driven out OF Rome by loss OF
occupation. and have either returned to their
native villages. where their real character is
known, or, alacki have emigrated to America
with their filthy rags and diseased bodies. The
visitor is not now annoyed by the opportunities
OF nendicants ne stroIls from church to
church IF there be beggar at the entrance
he must have some function to perform, like
that Of pushing aside the curtain or opening the
door: and he is tolerated by the police only
long as he is decently dressed and quiet in man
Ter. Rome mas ceased to be a city of beggars
where grimy hands are outstretched at every
turn for pennies. The gospel of work has been
proclaimed by the civic authorities, and in place
Of the bundles Of rags and sores at the church
door, there are pedlers with flowers, illustrated
post cards and photographs. Many of these are
children. neatly dressed and dark eyed, and with
a sInattering of English and French they are
overzealous in pressing their wares upon the
attention Of stra ngers or soliciting employment
guides. They have al least an honest occu-
patton. and are seeking to earn their living.
Even when they are noisest and most importu-
nate. they are agreeable substitutes for the
loathsore beggars who once infested the streets
OF Rome.
The disappearance Of beggars has been &C
oompanied by a marked improvement in the
condition Of the working classes. This is par
ticulary noticeab BILE in what may be described as
the medieval quarter. following the bend OF the
Tiber from Ponte ST. Angelo to the Ponte
Emilio This was not long ago a region OF
slums where the poor were wretchedly housed
and lived in squaior and want The sanitary
conditions have been materially improved and
the working people are buster. better fed and
more decently dressed than they few
years ago In Trastevere on the slope Of the
Janicuum, there is as thrifty and robust an JIM
dustrial class as can be found in any European
capital The men are tell and broad shouldered.
the women handsome and vigorous and the
children fun booded and agile. 1t is a work
aday section that compares favorably with the
best ordered districts Of the East End of Lon
don. There are signs of thrift in the houses of
the dingiest alleys. and on Sunday afternoons
the streets are filled with well dressed working
people holding high holiday in joyous mood
until Yesper service and then loCking into the
churches. Working Rome is not what it
once-a hotbed Of degradation poverty, dis
content and socialism. There is more work. if
not better wages. and there are higher stand
ards Of living and education among the poor.
The holiday crowds which were seen in St.
Peters when the dead Pope was under exhibit
ton were lighthearted. if not irreverent; but al
lowance ought TO be made for the volatile spirits
az this Southern race and for their excitement
whenever 2 owl ShO air
are better on the Corso or the Via Nazionale
when there is street procession to the Pan
fheon or when royalty passes There are no
signs Of discomfort in the faces The voices ring
out in resonant cheers when an Italian flag is
displayed or veteran of GaribaIdrs band is
seen in a red shirt Workingmen's political or
CARNATIONS are heartily applauded, and every
emblem Of united Italy lights up fine glow of
popular enthusiasm. When royalty appears the
Romans are self-possessed and dignihed They
wait in silence for some sign of recognition and
when either the King or Queen bows the salute
is returned instantly by every man. woman and
child as though il were meant as an individual
tribute This certainly is an improvement upon
the stolid Anglo-Saxon manner Of receiving dig
nitaries with a profound stare followed bv
rounds Of hilarious cheers. The Romans are in
tensely proud Of their city as the capita1 Of
united Italy. This feeling is unmistakable on
every occasion Of national interest They also
are contented, lighthearted and joyous In these
respects there has been a marked change during
recent years. Loyalty to the monarchy has in
creased national pride has been invigorated.
and the people have become more contented and
less excitable than they were when the times
were hard and the burdens of taxation intoler-
@~-v.