The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-08-07
HINTS OF COMING STYLES
FEW WOMEN BUY CLOTHES NOW,
But MANY ARE PLANNING THEM.
No Marked Change I'm New Models
Short Skirts with Lining Revived
New Trimmings.

the world of dress. Women are far more
seriously bent upon wearing the gowns they
have than upon ordering others. Buyers
are abroad. Dressmakers are taking
needed holiday. Yet, while all this is true,
! advance models are daily arriving from the
other side, manufacturers are laying their
plans for the success the autumn must
bring, and among the initiated what will
and what will not be worn not only is eager
ly discussed, but is fairly well understood.
OF course, changes may and will come later.
There is always an element OF caprice in
fashion. Actual cold weather will doubtless
see still other things offered, but models for
early autumn are already well understood
by the designers. and any one in touch
with them can learn what tendencies are 10
be noted. what ideas are TO be exploited.
and where changes from present styles will
occur To-day have been enjoying a first
glimpse of models which bear the names of
Paquin, Francis and other tyrants in the
world of dress, and am happy to assert
that the outlook is most promising. that
what differences are to be noted are for the
better. that all things point to a tasteful
as well as a brilliant sartorial season. The
first, and to my mind most important, fea-
wear, and the fact that they are to be lined.
not made over drop skirts. We women
have suffered from that trial quite long
enough. Lift the two together one seldom
can. One the other is quite sure
to slip away from the fingers. Neither
grace nor comfort were induced by
the attempt. Long coats have brought
us this relief. at least, inasmuch as
haC
was difficult with shorter Jackets be-
came we'll nigh impossible with the added
diffculty of coats below the knees, hence
the return to Innings sewed in and bound
with the skirts at the lower edge. Not one
or the several costumes shown me to-day
had a separate underskirt OF silk. In each
ana every case the lining was made with
the cloth. Plain and plated models both
were there. Plain ones are simply lined
throughout Almost all the plated skirts
snow plain panels that are lined, while the
p PA sol OF side and back are caught firmly to
the foundation, at or near it's lower edge,
so that both can be lifted together with
ease. Also each and every skirt designed
Tor the street clears the ground, and these
TWO facts together mean so much of health
ana comfort that am more than happy to
chronicle them. We have played the part
or scavengers long enough: 1t is indeed
time that we were relieved from the condi-
ton which means inevitable soil and danger
to health.
FULL SKIRTS ARE COMING.
The general tendency in walking skirts
is to fullness. but there is less noticeable
ripple at the lower edge than heretofore.
That is, we are to have hip yokes with
plated skirts below, we are to have plaits
stitched fiat over the hips and left free
from that point, we are to have plain
fronts with plated panels: and there are
many skirts gored and made much wider
at the bottom than the top but these last
are interlined with hair cloth and trimmed
with scant ruffles and bands that keen them
well out from the feet and do not give the
ripple with which We have grown familiar
IN the unstifened skirts. The American
woman Will not accept skirts of cloth made
Lull over the hips. So much is an accepted
Iact py all who come In contact with her
autocratic DEGREES. AS e result we shall
nave hip yokes, and front panels extended
TO form Jokes with plating attached. but
VIII not see favor shown to any skirt that
destroys the hip lines. On the other hand
overtightness is vulgar, and with yulgarity
no truly well-dressed woman will have
anything to do, so we may safely look for
good and graceful lines, for beauty and
comfort In one. Coats are to be generally
long. These first models give great promi-
nence TO the Louis idea and are charming
Au.umn is 10 bring much velvet and many
zibelines and the Louis coat lends itself
to both with singular success The new
est MODELS are notable for lack of blouse
straight fronts are shown with skirts that
ripple gracefully below the hips but evil
dence SO far given points to distinct fall
ing on in the pouched effect Certainly the
snugger fronts are charming and give beau
tlful lines. A most exquisite costume from
Francis is in fawn-colored broadcloth and
combines a skirt plated below a smooth
yoke, with one OF these coats that is abb
and its companions succeed blouses will
inevitably undergo some change, but i
think have already noted the tendency to
deep girdle belts and to the princess effects
Sleeves are big and ample, but with Guns
that are creeping UP the arms bit by bit.
and the long. dropping shoulder line In
some way every garment gives evidence
of this last. One loose coat shows sleeves
set In well below the shoulders. While such
treatment Is impossible with snug fit trim
ming gives the line. or small capes fall
over the sleeves. Broad we must be. LET
the result be attained as it may. The little
capes are charming. Many of the coats
show shoulder straps. but, in one way or
another, the result Is always obtained.
Plated coats and loose coats both are seen
and are admirable for the women whom
they suit. but the really loose models will
for evening wear. A most picturesque ex-
ample. OF an opera wrap Is big, loose annie
and falls well below the knees. The ma
terial is white zibeline, soft and silky. with
black dots that suggest the ermine idea
and the trimming is macrame lace with silk
applique and touches of black velvet A
more serviceable wrap. designed for the
autoist and the country-loyng woman Is
of cloth. in suggested plaid of green and
blue, and is quite roomy enough to wran
comfortably about one over the most volIl
minous gown. A feature is the yoke. which
extends over the shoulders we'll down over
the arms, and to which the loose coat Is
attached. AT the neck is turnover collar
and there are most fascinating ties of soft
green silk that terminate In tassels of gold
that give brilliancy to the whole and sug-
gest the military idea that is to be noted
in many trimmings.
BRAID AND BUTTONS USED.
Braids and buttons are to be features and
such gorgeously beautiful ones as are
shown. Francis. who may fairly be called
the autocrat in such matters uses touches
Of gold with black upon almost everything
and wonderfully beautiful it is. Fancy
braids are numerous and are handsome
Many show really exquisite blendings of
color. Fringes are expected to have great
vogue and laces Of many sorts are to be
used. A most satisfactory idea as well as
new one is the combination OF heavy lace
with fringe. The new macrame lends itself
to this treatment exceptionally well and is
quite certain TO gain favor. Heavy pas
sementeries too are seen In combination
with silk fringe showing the deep knotted
heading that always is so handsome Hap
PLY. however, designers realize that ouan-
tity does not always mean beauty and one
sees bits of fringe used with singular sue
cess. A most superb long cloak OF black
peau de sole Is made elaborate with heavy
silk applique and deep silk fringe and is
relieved from somberness by an edge of
L. Al.a4 ~alx~