Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-03-14
Table and Kitchen.
A Seasonable Chapter on Fish and
Sauces.

closely the Lenten period, there can really
be little self-dental, on the part of lovers
of fish, in abstaining from indulgence of
other kinds Of animal food at this partic-
ular season. Therefore the merit lies Ill
the change of meats more than in the OBJ
servance of the custom.
Fish does not possess any very special
qualities superior to the flesh of other ami
mails The most noteworthy points to be
considered being the comparatively large
amount of water contained in the flesh of
leaner variety of fish compared to lean
butchers meat, and proportionate In
crease in amount of important salts. Fish
is poorer in heterogeneous constituents whlch
differ from those of meat, the fish contain
ing more gelatin-yielding substance ana
less extractives.
However, in reckoning the value of hsh
as source of energy and in the light OF
actual building material we must take
into consideration the different kinds of
fish, and at the same time the fact that
fish ranks among the most completely alb
sorbed of foods.
Salmon may be compared to moderately
fat meat in amount of nutrtive value OBJ
tanned; while the absence of fat and greater
proportion of water reduces the food value
of cod or other white fish very considerably
lower than that of lean meat.
The white fish, with the exception of cod,
Is generally easy of digestion, this owing
no doubt to their freedom from fat, which
interferes somewhat with most perfect d.
gestion, and seriously retards or arrests
natural secretion of gastric juice when d.
gestton Is already impaired, especially If
the fat becomes rancid, as it Is apt to do.
The explanation of the exception that must
be allowed the cod, which is regarded as
the most indtgestible of fish is it's coarse
fiber, which is made still more difficult Of
solution by the hardening process Of salt
ing. Other white fish have shorter fiber
than beef, and for this reason should more
in hn CT onh Tn q
mony with this superstition we have the
experience derived from the use Of the
whiting or chicken of the sea- which is
recommended above all other fish for the
dySpeptic and convaleScent.
Fish, being less stimulating than meat,
makes it available as a good substitute for
meat in dietary for nervouse diseases, and
for this reason is also recommended in
stead OF meat for sedentary persons and
Tor hot weather food. Fresh fish cannot
be universally and at all times substituted
for meats. First because its flesh under
goes rapid decomposition and Is injurious
II ever so slightly tainted. Unless eaten
fresh its flavor is soon dissipated, even
though frozen Immediately they are
caught. Then their poverty in extractves
causes loss of flavor when cooked and this
makes protracted fish diet very monot-
onous. A long period Of exclusive fish diet
Is said to produce a scorbutic state of the
system. But this latter drawback is not
one likely to affect the people of this coun-
obliged to confine themselves too closely to
this class of food. 1t shows, however, that
where there Is possible tendency to dis
ease of the skin a frequent indulgence in
kind, may be responsible for certain dis
comfort and eruptions Of the skin.
The Economic Value.
The market price Of fish is no indication
of the true economic value. The price Of
and yet they may be practically Of the
same nutritive value. This holds good in
regard to many of the white fish. On the
other hand compared weight for weight,
salmon contains three times as much nu-
TRENT as cod. This comparison may be
carried further and applied to fresh
caught or canned fish; in the latter form
almost all the bulk paid for is In edible
form, while much of the bulk Of the fresh
fish is waste, pure and simple.
In choosing the method of cooking we
must remember that fish has less flavor
than other flesh, to begin with, and Its
greater richness in gelatin causes 1t to lose
more when cooked in water than meat
therefore boiling fish is not method to be
employed unless very carefully performed
In fact, steaming or cooking by water
vapor is much more suitable and satisfac-
tory. Frying In deep fat Is the best
method of cooking some kinds of fish, those
that do not require protracted length OF
time. The ordinary process of frying prac-
ticed by the average cook Is a sort of roast
ing, as only enough fat is employed to pre-
vent the fish from sticking and burning to
the surface Of the shallow pan used. The
best method is that which applies a very
high Temperature of heat suddenly to the
surface of the fish in such manner as to
instantly coagulate the proteids on the sur
face and at the same time form a slightly
charred crust that will prevent the escape
of the soluble substances. This Is done by
boiling, frying or roasting.
Goldfish a la Mode.
Soak one pound of Goldfish over night in
the morning pour off the water; cover again
with cold water; place over the fire; allow
it to come to a boil; repeat this; then cook
gently until tender. Pick to pieces. renlov-
ing all bones and skin. With this mix two
cupfuls Of mashed potatoes, three eggs
well beaten, one pint Of milk, one-quarter
Of a cup Of butter and seasoning to taste.
Place in buttered granite dish and bake
in the oven for twenty-five minutes.
Baked Fish Espanole.
Clean carefully one good-sized white fish,
wipe dry and fill with the following stuffing:
One cup Of bread crumbs mixed with one
quarter cup of milk, one egg, one table,
spoonful melted butter. one tablespoonful
chopped parsley, one teaspoonful chopped
onion, and salt and pepper to TASTE After
filing with this mixture sew up carefully.
Make small incisions in the top Of the fish
from head to tall, and place in them strips
Of Harding or salt pork. Then place in a
pan with one good-sized onion sliced, one
cupful of tomato, salt and pepper to taste.
Dredge the fish with salt, pepper and a
little flour, place in hot oven about one
half hour, basting frequently. Serve with
the sauce around it.
Boiled Salmon.
Take one good-sized slice Of salmon, wrap
in a piece of cheesecloth and place in
kettle Of boiling, sailed water for about
twenty minutes. Remove from CLOTH place
in fish platter and serve with the follow
ing sauce:
Egg Sauce.
Boil four eggs until hard, then stand In
cold water until ready to use. Melt one
tablespoonful Of butter and one of flour
in a saucepan, add to it one cupful of milk
stir until it thickens, then add the eggs
chopped fine.
Canned Salmon.
A very good substitute for fresh salmon
is that which Is put up in cans, which is
really very delicious and may be prepared
in so many delightful and appetizing ways
that we can hardly realize the fact that the
fish is not fresh. AS far as the nutritiye