The Birmingham age-herald., 1903-06-07


 by day push the white sails of the old time commerce carriers farther and far ther from the direct routes of trade have worked revolution in the lives or the men who go down to the sea In ships." To some these changes have worked a certain woe. There is the lore mast hand, who once was weatherly wise 1 aloft, knew how and when to reef and tfurl could steer the plunging packet lnto the froth of a gale by the shiver Of the foresall leeeh, and work wonderful de- vices with marlin spike and rope; Eand, who now is a deck-washer a scrub Der of paint. and booster of passengers ! luggage On the other hand there is the sea cook, once the despised and derided doctor" of the sailing ship, man with two dishes which were worth while, one of which was "lobscouse" and the other wasn't. Today the sea cook on the liner is a functionary, a man of mark, draw inga salary that would make an old timer green with envy, having satellites, attendants, and understrappers galore. The struggles of the old-time sea cook with his limited larder, his unhandy sur roundings would have been ludicrous had they not been drought with too deep a significance to the hungry crew. this made them pathetic. The cook is regularly articled member of the crew on a sailing vessel and this is no nomin- al service At the cry All hands on deck" he may have to leave his kettles, no matter how critical the moment. On some ships it used to be the cooks es- 5 pecial duty to tend the fore-sheet. When he came back the soft bread was burnt < in the baking, the "hot-pie" was wreck and the dogs body" reduced to un- nourishing bones.
 Even with the smiling skies and every thing going his way the sailing cook 1 life is by no means a merry one HIS gallery Is on deck often forward, just where a good boarding sea can soak 1t, and where he gets the full fling and send of the rollers. How he keeps pots on the stove in a jumping sea Is a question which he could not answer himself, but he must manage it. Perhaps the small size of his galley helps, for Its space is usually not more than by F, and he can stand in the middle and reach almost anything without jumping for 1t. Ihen. again the restrictions are such that he is not apt to have his pots brimming over. On most sailing vessels the COOK is limited to two quarts of fresh water QaiiY IOfa edCn uldtlt d4u Wi'il ehiS hS 'o expected to produce full quart ot cof- fee, a pint and half of tea, and pint of pea soup It will be seen that clever management is needed for this feat.
 On three days of the week he has to make duff of bread instead of pea soup The ingredients for this dun, or bread, are half pound of flour per man. some fat boiled from the salt beef, generally known as "slush" and the aforesaid water
 Gastronomic luxuries on the sailing ship include such luxuries as Jobs couse," "dandyfunk' and dogs body" 'Lobscouse' is, withal, simple luxury. but it has it's drawbacks, for it can be made only after a heavy shower of rain or at such times as the steward can be prevailed upon to be generous and serve out an extra bucket of water. The amount of water on a long voyage is necessarily limited, and the usual ser vice does not admit of '.lobscouse."
 Having the water then, Heaven sent, or otherwise, this is how 'lobscouse' is made. Take the salt beef and pork scraps remaining from previous meals, cut into junks and heave into pot. Smash up some hard tack with belay- ing pin and heave in about an equal quantity with meat An onion and some pepper, if obtainabe, will add to the fla vor Cover with water let 1t simmer gently, and serve hot.
 "Dandyfunk" is a sort of nautical gin- gerhread. You put hard tack into d can vas bag and pound 1t with sail-makers mallet until it is reduced to minute frag- ments. Mix to a paste with water, mo- lasses and carefully selected "slush." Put in a baking-p pan and bake until brown. A little piece of ginger, of course adds to this deectable dish, and is avail able if the steward is feeling good na- tured
 Dogs body" hardly merits unpropi- tious name. It is really "dandyfunk" with the molasses left out and replaced by the days allowance of pea soup and some bits of fine chopped pork. Onions may be obtained, either by eajolery or treachcry, add, and the whole baked and served hot. Sometimes the men them selves prepare this dish from the rem nants of preceding meals and, if the cook Is feeling well, he puts It in the oven for them if not 1t has to wait over until more suspicious day.
 Such were the table luxuries served by the old-time sea cook. and 1t must be confessed that he did as well as he could. surprisingly well under the -cireum stances. Such an one would be lost in amazement. however, on a modern liner. Serve ''lobscouse'' on any one of the pas- sen,sr ships of the Morgan merger
 
 these but serves a daily menu equalled only in the very best and most expensive hotels Here is not one cook but many. and the duties are divided so that each may pursue his speciality. Take one of the American line vessels, for instance, where American wages are paid. and things are done in American fashion. There is the chief cook. earning $6O a month. second who gets $40. and a third, receiving s25. There is the French cook, a chef drawing $50; first vegeta- ble cook, g and two more at $E. There are two scullery men who draw SIT each, and all this imposing array Is for the first cabin alone.
 For the second class there is still an- other chief cook, drawing $3750 a month; a second, at s25, and two more receiving ST. When you come to the third class, the steerage as we used to call it before the big improvements that were made in recent years, when third class" on a boat like the Cedric" or Celtic means more than cabin did once on a time-there are still three cooks. first, second and third, drawing s32.50. $20 and SIT. accoE ding to their respective import ance. The second and third class pas sengers have no French chef. as yet, though with the Improvements and lux uries added year by year to the great ocean liners, 1t is quite possible that