The San Francisco call., 1903-01-25

drop. Both the drop and the dropoline
are used upon the peignoir- The crocheted
drop is made of silk and IL is used foi
fastening the peignor down the front
There are also very elaborate dropoiines
crocheted in all colors and used for
fastenings and finishes and for trimmings
pure and simple.
II YOU want something absolutely new
ia the peienOir line YOU can make your
self a morning robe in albatross OF the
silky surface sort. Choose a Shade or
champagne yellow. and for a trimming
use cream-colored dropolines. Arrange
them down the front and let them hook
aCTOss in festoon style.
You will want a deep square collar
made light with an edge OF lace and
abdte the lace you can arrange a festoOn
OF cTocheted silk dropoiines. Use the
same for the sleeves and for the foot Of
the skirt above the lace insertions Around
o. the foot put pale yellow ribbon rufie.
and finish the hands the same way, with
a fall Of lace inside.
While the black peignoir is unQuestion-
ably the. most serviceable Of all house
and room robes. for IL does not show the
dirt nor fade If of good material. still
there are arguments against it, and these
go for q great deal.
Black is not cheerful, and in dark
weather 1t is unbecoming; It is not youth
provoking; It is not ethereal by any
means; and In certain lights II is very
aging.
A young person. very youthful ma
tron. may look decidedly charming I'm a
black liberty peignoir with fagot stitch
ings OF white and with a delicate trim
ming OF white lace But the woman of
elderly tendencies viii certainly show
every day Of her years if clad in a black
peignor.
The Romantic Wool Gown.
BY some curious law the fashion DEGREES
that the new peignoir shall be lined with
silk, II IT be flannel or a cashmere, an
albatross or a lightweight wool Any OF
these materials look and hang the better
for being silk lined and they also have a
faint rustic which is so much liked by a.
woman.
In selecting a silk lining get lining
which has a soft, delicate "cry." not the
sharp rustic Of the cheaper silk The
cry Of silk is one OF the points by
which the expert tests its quality. and a
silk with a loud harsh, sharp cry is
far inferior TO one that is family, softly
rusting.
The most romantic or peignoirs are
made from any Of the satin-faced woods.
And in these one can select from a wide
variety of shades. In one shop they had
twenty shades Of red. all made up in pret-
~ peignoir shape, each one ready to be
put on and worn as a house gown.
One was in pomegranate red, which
looks little yellowish in certain lights.
1t was trimmed with fagot stitch put on
in very elaborate fashion with a very
narrow band Of black velvet ribbon put
on under the fagots. This is an easy
trimming for amateur to attempt The
velvet is pasted in place and the fagot
work is put on over IL holding Ii fast.
Then there can be sprinkling OF very
large French knots as a border
A very fetching pefgnoir OF the Duchess
Of Marlborough was made in Paris, where
they understand the art Of getting all the
romance possible out OF gown
1t was in white glazed taffeta of the
very glossy kind that wears so we'll 1t
was cut in the long straight lines which
become any figure, be II stout or slender.
And its only trimming was a little bolero
made in the glazed taffeta and attached
to the gown. 1t was trimmed with bor-
dering Of turQo!se blue velvet The stand
over the white taneta, and around the
collar was worked the smallest vine in
forget-me-nots, with green and blue silk
There were a few forget-me-nots around
the GUNS.
For many reasons taffeta is a good ma.
terial for a neglige and white taffeta is
dressy: 1t wears well, IL the taffeta be
good; II can be cleaned TO perfection, and
II. is so very becoming.
A Suggestion for White.
One OF the dressiest women I'm Gotham
wears. always, in the morning a room
robe Of pale blue opalescent silk. Two or