The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1903-05-17
MEMS FULL DRESS STYLES
From the Washington Post.


From the Washington Post.
There is a tendency toward less con-
servatism in evening dress which is maxi
ing itself felt in the various articles of
haberdashery that go with the full dress
suit as well as with the Tuxedo or dinner
jacket, and it is especially apparent in the
styles of shirts and waist coats shown at
the fashionable shops.
Whereas the plain white linen shirts
used to be the only ones permitted by
convention and the rules of good form,
we now find piques of more or less pro-
nounced rib, figured linens or marseilles,
with spot or line marking of white on
white and satin striped linens for wear
with the long tail coat and semi-soft
front linens and fine white mattresses
made up in plated and narrow tucked
effects for use with the Tuxedo coat
Indeed, some of the leading makers go
much further than this and exhibit en-
broidered shirts and fronts with an edge
finished with a narrow ruffie, but as yet
such things are hardly worth considera-
ton, for though exhibited in the shops
they have not gained the sanction of well
dressed men, and until that important
step has been attained it is not safe to
run the risk of criticism.
The newest shirt is of fine ribbed white
pique, or rather the bosom is of white
pique, and 1t may be taken as constitut-
ing the smartest mode af this season s
style, not too extreme a departure from
the old conservative standard to- take
any chance of the imputation of bad
form, and yet more distinctive and as yet
decidedly less common than the plain
white linen of so many years vogue.
The opening is cut all the way down
the front instead of merely to the bottom
of the bosom, so that the shirt can be put
on and taken off exactly like a Jacket
(Which has gi' en- it the name of coat
shirt'D, and this accounts for a third
buttonhole at the bottom of the bosom,
when otherwise there would be but two.
1t is getting to be more and more usual
each year to make shirts with this OPEN
ing. and while to be advised in all cases.
it is especially to be advised for evening
dress. because aside from the questions
of comfort and convenience it lessons the
chance of wrinkling the bosom and muss-
ing the hair in the process of putting on.
The shirt has it's collar attached,
but as matter of fact, the at
tached collar is not greatly to be recon-
mended for practical purposes unless one
wishes to devote a considerable part of
overdress allowance to the purchase of
shirts. The soiling or whiting of the col
lar puts the whole shirt out of business,
and in the average laundry 1t Is sure to
fare badly in the doing up. A wing collar
or a poke pointed standing collar is
equally as correct as a straight standing
shape for full dress. but it is now swell
est TO have the cuffs cut square instead
of rounded, and small pearls are the most
fashionable style of studs.
Except with the Tuxedo coat, when it
should always be worn, the black even
ing vest is now almost thing of the
past. Not only for dinners, dances. and
other formal occasions is the white waist
coat CONNIE II faut. but 1t is worn almost
exclusively with the long-tailed coat, for
theaters. evening calls, etc, no matter
of how little Formally. In point of fash
ion there is little choice between the sim
gle and double-breasted shapes, but the
former are little bit the newer in style
and are accordingly given the preference
by the smart haberdashers and the many
men who observe the fine distinctions in
dress AS said above, there is tendency
toward less conservatism in materials,
and, while silk or satin is not to be adj
vised, figure piques, linens, marseilles,