The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-09-12
The AUTUMN OUTLOOK
A SEASON OF STYLES SO VARIED
THAT ALL TASTES MAY BE SUITED.
Gowns So Elaborate and Beautiful
that h Average Woman Can
Only Wonder at Them.

Correspondence of the Indianapolis Journal.
NEW YORK, Sept. 10.-Autumn is ever a
season of deep interest In matters sartorial.
The long winter of entertaining, of dinners,
Of dances, OF opera, theater n receptions
lies ahead. There will be required gowns
of many sorts and in generous numbers.
No woman among us fails to feel stirred. in
some little degree at least, by the discus
sion Of what la mode has in store and what
changes may be expected. This year the
outlook Is q peculiarly interesting one. Ru-
mors are many. We hear talk of 1880 and
Of 1860, of Louis XVI coats and of jaunty
boleros. To determine among all these what
will and what will not take a permanent
place, requires a keen sense of probable de-
mands and a nice discrimination Dress
makers, ~tailors, designers, manufacturers
Meantime new designs are being shown
each day and all sorts of novelties appear.
In my own. and in the Judgment of many
leading designers, the season will be one Of
wide range, of almost infinite variety. In all
probability 1t will mean very nearly all
things for all people and there will be ample
opportunity to suit individual needs. Some
few things, however, are assured. The vogue
of the long coat for tailored suits is GER
tain, let as many other designs as will APP
pear. and in spite of the prolonged vogue Of
the bolero. Skirts nave been materially
shortened. Sleeves are elaborate and big.
Lace will be used in profusion. Velvet and
velveteen are to be much worn. Cloth is a
favorite fabric for reception gowns and will
be seen In all colors and white, but will be
peculiarly smart in white. champagne color
and mauve shades.
Suits for the street are apt to be OF great
er interest than almost any other gowns
during the opening weeks Of the season.
1 have seen some beautiful ones in velvet,
in velveteen and in cloth. OF the long coat
/ have written again and again, but its va
riations are infinite, and there seems ever
something remaining TO be said. An exceed
ingly handsome costume, shown me by a
leading importer, is of black velvet and is
trimmed with heavy black guipure lace. The
skirt Is of the length much favored by Pa
risian makers and just touches the floor at
the front, while IL is a bit only longer at
the back. On Ii is lace insertion, about two
inches in width, that Is arranged to form
panels. The coat is plain and snug fitting.
with bell sleeves. and is in t~hree-quarter
length. Round its lower edge and over the
front and back seams, that extend to the
shoulders is the applied lace and the sleeves
are simply edged. The only note of color is
found in the front facings, which are of
Oriental embroidered silk, edged with As
trachan. and can be turned back 10 form
long. slender revers. With the gown were an
accompanying waist of cream lace and a
picture hat of black velvet and plumes with
a choux of the Oriental coloring beneath
the brim.
A GREEN VELVET COSTUME.
A green velvet costume Is quite Of an
other sort. and shows no coat, but one of
the new cape bodices that is quite appro-
pirate for the street so long as the weather
renders II comfortable and, later. can be
supplemented with a stole of fur or worn
combined a figured silk. The skirt of velvet
is slashed from its lower edge to yoke
depth from the belt and between these
slashes appear the set-in, wedge-shaped
pieces of silk. the velvet falling over their
edges to give the suggestion of box plaits.
The corsage proper is full and of the silk.
with a garniture of velvet that forms straps
over the whole, and a cape that falls TO the
elbows There is a narrow vest of cream
lace that is outlined with black passemen-
terie and the full sleeves are of the silk
with deep cuffs Of velvet. At the waist is
a deep draped girdle of the silk and the
puffs of the sleeves appear between the
slashes cut at the edge OF the cape. From
every point OF view the gown is handsome.
The materials blend TO a nicely. The de-
sign includes the latest features, yet does
not go TO an extreme. The color scheme Is
a delight. In addition II is worthy of
special consideration as exemplifying some
features that seem quite certain to take
a permanent place. Hoopskirts we never
shall have or that we may rest assured,
but there Is a marked tendency toward
their effect In moderation. This skirt of
velvet and silk gives all the flowing. full
effect required, yet Is perfectly smooth
about the htps and at tho waist lima Its