The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-12-25
FASHIONS ARE NOW
At THEIR GAYEST IN GOTHAM
Multitude of Entertainments Brings Ont Variety of Beautiful
and Elaborate Go7cns of Fine Color Effects

the skirt below the yoke. The sleeves are
those marvellous ones whose upper portions
are one with the waist and show full puns
below gathered into gauntlet CUTS. A nov
city, and most effective one, is a combina
ton of chiffon and broadcloth In both skirt
and bodice. We have seen bands OF cloth on
chiffon and similar combinations until they
long ago ceased to inspire wonder or sur
prise, but this latter combination is quite
different thing. One of the best results /
have seen took the form of a gown worn by
leading young matron at an ultra fashion,
able musicale of the week. The color was
sage green. The skirt was many gored,
those at center, front and sides of the cloth
deliberately embroidered In what the French
call broderie Anglaise, or openwork en-
broidery, through the openings in which
glimpses of the silk foundation were caught.
The chiffon dotted with black and
white and all its cores were pin-tucked at
the belt. The bodice combined a deep-point-
lace, threaded with sage velvet ribbon form
ing tab ends, with full under portion of
chiffon and bertha of cloth. Over II was
worn long cloak OF white cloth with
ing hat was In picture style, of sage velvet,
with shaded plumes held by a huge pin OF
briiliants.
NEW KIND OF YOKE
Deep. very deep Jokes appear on gowns
for all occasions, but are especially notice.
able on those of afternoon home wear. The
latest and prettiest are not sewn down, but
are left free at the lower edge the points
falling over the waist. A novel gown re-
Gently completed is of coarse cream
bOurette canvas with a yoke of the sort that
is most effective and is combined with
points on the skirt to give a desirable. as
well as novel result. The blouse is simply
full with wide box plat at the front. Over
it falls the yoke with it's deep points that
are edged with band Of pin check velvet.
green and white, that in turn is piped with
cream and trimmed with a group Of tiny
gold buttons at each point. At the front
the band extends all the way to the throat
so finishing the opening in yoke and collar.
The skirt is finely tucked below a hip yoke
that is Of the material cut In points, each
white crewels and is cut I'm very deep
points that fall over a circular fiouncc.
These are banded to match the yoke and on
the founce is embroidery in white crewel
like that on the hip yoke. Altogether the
gown is novel and eminently smart, while
quite free Of the extravaganza that marks
so many, even so-called simple designs.
These drop yokes, as they are called. are
amply worthy of consideration and appear
In many other forms as we'll as the points,
although the latter In demand and
way to spring. Whatever shape tho edge
may take 1T is finished free of the gown
and the yoke is unattached save at the
collar. In addition to those made with the
gowns are charming ones sold ready for
wear of lace or chiffon SO heavily embroid-
cred one marvels II can support the weight
Of embroidery and Of all fancy materials.
Fringe knotted into the edges is much
liked and also Is sewed on, but the former Is
the more elegant. A practical notion that 1
have seen carried out most satisfactorily Is
that Of utilizing the fad to create convert
ible waists and some beautiful gowns are
rendered available for occasions of both
high and low neck through their agency.
The yoke or yoke collar is made very deep
and falls well over the shoulders The
sleeves are In elbow length and the bodice
is finished with a low round neck. When
desired the yoke collar Is added and the
high effect obtained.
SOME DAZZLING EFFECTS.
do not remember ever to have seen such
beautiful and varied jet and spangle effects.
The latter are shown In marvellous colors
and with iridescent effects that, in them
selves. are a delight. White net appears to
make a favorite foundation and the en-
broidery Is often so elaborate nearly to
cover the gown. A pretty one is all In
shades of rose. the sequins applied to
form most elaborate design. Another is
all violet and the Jet effects are almost too
varied TO describe. A most superb gown,
seen at the opera this week, was Of net
deliberately embroidered to give a three
fiounce effect and each fiounce was edged
with fringe. With this and with many of
the black and black and white
gowns dog collars of Jet held by
most satisfactory effect whenever
the throat Is less than ideal. Black lace
gowns. the skirts mass of narrow frills.
over white chiffon are charming and are
worn with jet accessories that give most
brilliant touch.
The necessary odd waists. without which,
In spite OF all effort to kill them, no ward
robe is complete, have taken a few neat
and charming forms Of which must tell
you before / close. One that noted to-day
at most exclusive importers Is OF white
chiffon with an entire, generous sized, bo-
lero of Lierre lace with insets of Cluny.
Another was in champagne colored crepe
mousseline combined with white. The filmy
stuff is shirred on cords across both waist
and sleeves to give a bertha effect and be-
low this bertha is two-inch band COM
posed OF frill on frill OF half inch Valen-
ciennes lace, while the yoke is OF Cluny,
the heavier portions OF the design embroid-
cred with silk TO match the crepe. The
sleeves are huge puffs with straight cuffs
of Cluny and band of the wee lace frills
at their widest part. MAY MANTON.