The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-06-13

to a nicely. No one thinks of laundering
linen made in these ways. 1t must be
cleaned as are pongee and silk. The plated
skirts are beautiful and are quite general
ly made to clear the ground. They sim
ply cannot be held up with any grace and
only with difficulty can be lifted at all,
let no one think that, because even dancing
skirts that plated are made. ii
means any further falling off in the train
for occa sions of formal dress. On the con-
trary, these seem to grow longer from one
season TO the next l think | have already
mentioned the fact that fashionable folk
refuse to give up the satisfactory Elton
jacket and are ordering Ii and blouse
Etons to the waist only. but with wide
sleeves. Some are bell-shaped, some are
the new bishop sort with wide turnover
flare cuffs and others again are still newer
and include plated portions that fall free
OF the cuffs. These last by the way, though
rot designed TO that end, are admirable for
remodeling those of last year, and are not
confined to jackets. The sleeve is of the
coat sort split at it's outer edge between
the width of narrow cuff and the elbow,
and in this split is inserted a plated piece
that is finished and left free at the lower
edge. 1t is smart and becoming in all
suiting ma terials and also is graceful and
pretty in lace combined with thin stun
A most effective Muslin is made and
many beautiful crepes and woods show in
sets of a similar sort
SHIRTWAIST SUITS.
Shirtwaist suits, when left in their native
and proper simplicity. are charming, but,
alas, are many times spoiled by the tend
ency to trim all things. In it's very nature
the shirtwaist suit is simple. 1t suits
morning wear upon the street, afternoons
at home and like occasions to a nicely, but
1t cannot and does not suit all hours of the
day. 1t is not appropriate for the evening.
1t is not theater gown. Put to such uses.
1t is out of place. deliberately trimmed it
is inelegant and out of taste. When some
thing more elaborate is needed, the model
Should be of another sort, and 1t is pity
the fact should be overlooked. 1t is the
day of overelaboration. We are very nearly
trimmed to the point of extinction. These
shirtwaist gowns have come as a reaction
and protest. How unfortunate that their
mission should be lost through overdoing!
Gowns made with blouses cut on simple
lines can, however, be trimmed and elab-
Grated to certain degree with safety. AS
charming a wash silk as 1 have seen was
worn by a slender girl who boarded my car
to-day, and has the merit of being emf
nently simple while not made with a shirt
waist The design was a check In black
and white. The skirt quite plain,
shirred to give a hip yoke effect. The
bodice was shirred to form yoke, full be-
low, and the full sleeves were shirred
closely above the elbows. Over each Shout
der seam, extending over the sleeves to the
end of the shirrings and down the center
front, were appliques of heavy Cluny lace,
with an additional heavy wheel applied at
quite wide, and gave a shallow yoke
effect, while also providing the dropping,
broad shoulders so much in vogue. With
the gown worn loose coat of pOngee
and a white straw hat, flower trimmed. The
whole design was simple in the extreme but
it was not the simplicity of the shirtwaist,
| and, consequently, allowed Of effective and
tasteful trimming
Accessories undergo no marked change,
except that lace and fine fabric gloves are
taking the place of kid, and that the ma
line bow. to be smart, must be tied about
the throat, not pinned on ready made.
Ultra smart women make use Of a new
piece for each tying, and order maline to
match each gown, but white still holds a
desirable place, and economical folk will
manage to tie several times before a single
piece must be discarded.
MAY MANTON.