davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1903-05-17

though perfectly possible for even an ANA
teur to turn out.
The length of the coats varies consider
ably. The so-ealled three-quarter length-so
long that II reaches almost to the hem Of
the skirt-and the length that comes only
to a little below the waist are both consid-
cred smart. But the long three-quarter Is
considered the smnrest of all and Is more
becoming, for when coat or wrap Of this
description is too short It makes too much
fulness without the Hines being long enough
to modify that fulness The accordion
plated cloth and chiffon wraps are rs fash
ionable MS they were when first seen In Paris
five summers ago, and are made without any
trimming, but are not so good for carriage
wenr as are those of plain cloth, trimmed
with either the cord and tnssels, passemen-
terie ornaments or the bands of heavy lace
Insertion. In white these coats are especially
smart and becoming and they are very use
full also In pongee for driving and for dust
cloaks A costume of pale gray, with long
gray wrap, Is immensely smart, and the
gray wrap can do duty as well for white
or a black gown, hut Of course is not so
smart as the white with everything else. Tue
one tone of color carried ont by having the
gown. the coat and the hat all of one shade
Is nearly always becoming, and when 1t Is
not, just another touch Of some other color
added is all-Sctnclent TO make II uistlnct-
I've and original AT the present moment
silk gowns in changeable tafleta, with
wrap of the same color-not necessarily Of
silk, but Of cloth-are quite the newest, and
as such are very charming.
It would seem as though velvet were never
to 20 out of fashion. But the velvet sold by
the yard. for gowns and coats and trim
mings, and the velvet ribbons used also for
trimmings. velvet rosettes, stiff velvet bows
and the narrow velvet ribbon run through
beading, have reappeared again on the latest
designs for summer frocks. In many In
stances the touch Of contrast given by the
black velvet Is very smart and almost nj
ways becoming. The gowns eut low In the
neck-we have been threatened with these
for the last two or three, even four, years,
In fact-are now worn with n broad band of
black velvet around the throat. This is
fashion that, strangely enough, is always
pronounced becoming, but It has an unhappy
faculty Of adding many years to the apparent
age of the wearer, as any woman who has
passed the first freshness of youth or has
a tendency TO a double chin has found out to
her sorrow. But black velvet is fashionable,
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1903-05-17

Coats and wraps to match gowns are as
fashionable as ever this season, and yet
never before this year was 1t necessary to
have so many wraps and coats that In them
selves are separate garments and can be
worn with any gown. Made Of different ma
terlal, often of an entirely opposite Color
and in themselves complete, they yet seem
as IL they were a part of whatever gown
they are worn with. This fashion has at
one bound attained a surprising popularity.
Apparently shnpeless as are all the wraps
and coats Of the moment with the exception
of the severe tailor-made variety that goes
with the short skirt, they are In reality
most carefully fitted and shaped, and, In
spite of apparently hiding every line and
Disgusting the figure, they really bring out
every good point If n woman be tan ana
have broad shoulders, her height and breadth
are nccentuated-that is, the desirable
breadth. If she be short and stout, the
sloplng shoulders and the trimmings vii!
be arranged to make her slender in spite of
herself. Most cleyerly will the extra full
ness In the front of the cloak which is worn
by the tall, slender woman be done away
with, while the same effect of being loose
and not fitting at all is still carried out.
The eye is caught by the long lines Of trim
ming which give the much-to-b e-desired
slender appearance.
All light colors are tremendously popular
so popular that 1t is safe to predict that in
a few months at latest dark colors VIII be in
again. But for the moment light tnns, ivory
white, champagne color, gray, pale blue,
pale green, pale red and even light shade
Of pink, are in favor and In these same
shades are made up smart and attractive
coats and eloaks. Cords and tassels of pas
sementerie, dyed to match the material ex-
actly, are used In connection with heavy
lace and heavy embroidery or are deemed
sufficient as trimming, with the addition of
a narrow velvet collar and revers, velvet
with a polka dot Of white being preferred
and plain color, or with faclngs of plain
colored foulnrd, with polka dot Of white.
Last years fashion of pongee or India silk
In pale green. blue or red, embroidered with
heavy linen thread In design Of grapes and
leaves, is still fashionable, but Is not so
new or smart as some of the other embroid-
cries. The newest are made Of the basket
weave Of Madras linen-whlte, blue, pink or
yellow-heaviy braided with a fine white
soutache braid. In themselves the mate
rails for this embroidery are inexpensive.
but the work, to meet the stamp OF approval,
must be done by hand, and, consequently,
this is never an inexpensive trimming al.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1903-05-17

one Of the most favorable countries known
to the class, and In spring and autumn
mushroom hunters can be found in field
and forest searching for the delicacies
they know so well. The members Of the
various mushroom clubs are enthusiasts
on the subject, and there are those who
assert that the cultivation of this fungus
will eventually have an important bearing
on the worlds food supply. If more were
known about the edible species 1t would
form q more important part of our diet
than now, for we would realize more
clearly that for home consumption 1t Is
a healthful and grateful food, and when
successfully grown for market 1t becomes
so profitable that the original investment
often is doubled. In parts of Russia, Ger
many and Italy mushrooms furnish the
peasants and working classes with n food
that takes the place of meat. The French
often cultivate them In cellars and caves,
and they may be grown In all kinds Of
greenhouses and even In boxes and frames,
which can be obtained at little expense
and which will supply enough for domes-
tic use. Spring and autumn are the best
seasons, and the mushrooms are usually
In full bearing at the end Of four weeks
Some women use the cellars of their
houses for mushroom beds, and In the
case of those who wish to grow a few
part of the room can be partitioned Off
alongside the wall to protect 1t from cold
draughts. Shelves can be placed above
the bed as in any other part of the cell
lar. This has been known to work admira-
bly,, especially II the temperature of the
cellar varies from 80 to 60 Fahrenheit
One grower markets nearly three thou
sand pounds yearly from the cellar and
attributes the success to absolute clealll-l
ness and coats OF lime wash which are
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1903-05-17
The Social Obligations OF The Working Woman

lions are antagonistic tastes. 1t is not sup
posed that she scorns golf tournaments be
cause she teaches Greek in a woman's col
lege, or that a yachting trip is out OF the
question for her because she is real estate
broker.
OF course all this is pleasant, but he who
imagines that 1t is unalloyed JOY to the
working woman Is reckoning-as she can
not-without the dressmaker, the tailor, the
eabby. the servants and the other expensive
adjuncts of social career. For, accepted
as a fact, the professional woman is no
longer allowed for as mild monstrosity.
She may no more make her appearance at
a formal dinner clad in shirt waist and
cloth skirt on the ground that she Is
physician, than her brother can make his in
knickerbockers and q Norfolk Jacket and
expect excuse to be offered because he Is
landscape gardener or a railroad engineer.
Take the case Of Hester, for example.
Hester teaches literature In swell private
school, That in itself implies expenditures.
One may not train the youthful mind there.
to appreciate the beauties of Shelley or the
thunderIngs of Carlyle unless one Is prop
erly attired. The scions Of the aristocracy
may not hear that George Eliot did not
begin to write novels early in life from
woman whose tie is badly chosen and badly
tied. And when under the guidance of the
head of the literature department the class
is taken to see LAS You Like It, the head
Of the literature department must be model
In matinee costuming.
But in addition to these unavoidable ey-
penses Hester has others. She has a wide
and varied circle OF acquaintances. The
parents of some Of her pupils are on her
visiting list. She has her own agreeable
circle and one distinguished one which has
descended to her from days of former great
ness. Moreover she is pretty, she can talk
well, and. to the everlasting gratitude of
hostesses, she can listen even better. She
Is. therefore, In great demand, and her fel-
low teachers envy her In good natured way.
Some Of them were telling her Of her good
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1903-05-17

wraps are not so popular as they were, the
long-shouldered effect is gained more easily
by these collars than by anything else-that
is If one has not been provided by nature
with the long. dropping shoulder line.
On many of the summer gowns that are
more or less simply made this wide collar Is
one of the features of the season, and 1t
Is seen on many of the new wraps, the
collar costing even more than the entire gar
ment for expensive lace shows to much bet
ter advantage when SO used than In any
other way. Lace the color OF the coat or
wrap or of ecru Is more used than all white,
although an attempt is now being made to
use the clear white with tan or gray, rather
than ecru. There are several different kinds
Of laces. In fact, almost all kinds are con-
sidered possible, but the fad Of the moment
is a fine lace used in connection with shir-
rings of chiffon. This style or collar with
long ends In front Is really wrap In itself,
and on some Of the long coats Is made so
that 1t can be taken off and worn separately
If SO desired. But somehow 1t makes the
coat cumbersome and does not seem so trim
or 80 In keeping as the deep collar OF lace
the color of the coat. The sleeves are all
very large and are put In such way that
they look as though they were part OF tho
cloak and not sleeves at all. They are wide
at the wrist, and 1t is very rarely that there
Is any lace on them. If the sleeve is fancy,
with q deep turned back cuff, there may be
insertion Of lace, but lace ruffies and things
of that sort are quite out of date. This
applies to the wraps, not to the short fancy
coats of dark cloth which are now finished
with double or triple ruffles Of pleated white
muslin and lace combined. On the silk and
pongee coats and all the so-called travelling
or driving cloaks the rule is that there
shall be no trimming likely to catch the dust,
and, consequently, only facing Is used IN
the fronts and on the collar and revers, II
revers there are, because for the moment
they are rather out of date.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1903-05-17

In the good old days when the working
woman was being set apart from social
opportunities TO almost as great an extent
as her conventual sister she enjoyed certain
distinct advantages as well as certain very
apparent disadvantages. The discussion Of
her duty to society usually resolved itself
into discussion as to what she should wear
during business hours and as to how far she
might compromise with her "womanliness"
by falling to observe elevated masculine feet
and coatless masculine arms In an office.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1903-05-17

But nowadays the problem is more compi-
Gated.
She is invited to dinners and dances as a
matter of course. provided that she knows
dinner and dance giving people. Her ac'
quaintances no longer say: 1t would be so
pleasant to have Elaine down for the club
tea on Saturday afternoon, only, Of course
she doesn't care for that sort Of thing. She
paints YOU know" Weeks end parties are
no longer withholden from her on the ground
that law and a fondness for rural relaxa-
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1903-05-17

frequently given the cellar walls. Such
beds In a dwelling house may seem unsani-
tary to some people, but when rightly han
died and thoroughly prepared before be-
ing started In the house they emit no odor.
No person can grow mushrooms more sue
cessfully than the farmers wife, yet, strange
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1903-05-17
Where And How To Grow The Edible Mushroom.

Although heat and humidity influence all
kinds of vegetation, yet heat seems to
exert less and humidity a greater infiu'
ence on mushrooms than on other plants.
For this reason It is IN spring and autumn
that the fleshly mushroom iourishes most
vigorously in the United States, which is
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1903-05-17
A NEW ENGLAND DRINK.

Two cupfuls of sugar. one Of lemon juice,
pint of fruit or berry Juice, one small pine
apple grated; two quarts of water and zee
enough 10 make very cold. This amount vii;
maka two QUARTS Nice for a garden party
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1903-05-17

and as such Is used when run through bead
ing in rosettes or bows or in the new collars,
for the black velvet ribbon is made up into
stiff collars as well as worn tied with a
bow at the back of the neck.
Although broad lace collars on gowns and
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1903-05-17

to say, she has paid little attention to this
branch Of home gardening. Little skilled
labor is necessary, and after planting all the
care consists IN maintaining an even tenn
perature and in gathering the crops. Many
women in search Of employment can ind
no pleasanter work than mushroom growing,
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1903-05-17

All edible fungi should be collected In their
prime and prepared and served as speedily
as possible, lest decomposition set in. An
other precaution is to carefully scrutinize
the mushroom for the minute grubs which
sometimes infest the entire surface. YER
teal cut through the stem and cap will set
tie this question.
The Kendrick gazette. [volume] (Kendrick, Idaho) 1892-1968, 1903-12-04
MONTANA NOTES.

1t is reported that arrangements are
being made to run Great Northern
trains through to Anaconda, on the
Montana Central, instead of retaining
Butte as the western terminus of that
branch.
Joe Morrigeau, the Flathead chief,
evicted from the reservation by the
United States troops, says he will
bring suit against the federal officials
in the federal court. Morrigeau, who
is Carlisle man, is wealthy and able
to hire good legal counsel.
On and after January / the Mon.
tana division of the Northern Pacific,
which includes the main line and all
branches between Billings on the east
to Missoula on the west, will be chang
ed by cutting off that territory west of
Helena and Butte and adding it to
the Rocky Mountain division.
Celestial proprietors of the Eugene
restaurant of Billings have appealed
to the police to assist them in a search
for a Chinese woman, who, it is al.
legged, has disappeared with the treas.
ure box of the restaurant and it's con.
tents, amounting to over $500. One
OF the Cinnamon recently brought the
woman to the restaurant where she
was to become his wife in several
months.
The Mount Haggin Sporting club Of
Anaconda has arranged for 20 round
match December II between Billy
Woods, colored protege of Biddy
Bishop, and Joe Grim, the TERRIBLE
Italian" whom Fitzsimmons could not
put out in six rounds recently in
Philadelphia.
Safeblowers made an unsuccessful
attempt about o'clock on Saturday
morning to blow up the safe of Good.
child & Co. at Thompson Falls. -Four
blasts Of giant powder were used, but
the inside case Of the safe which was
steel lined. did not yield. After about
four hours work the safeblowers
were obliged to decamp without any
thing for their labor. There was $4,000
inside of it.
The Kendrick gazette. [volume] (Kendrick, Idaho) 1892-1968, 1903-12-04
GOOD ROADS BILL.
Colonel BrownIow Again Presents lt
In the House.

Observation-Disclosures w. P.
Brownlow of Tennessee has reintro-
duced in the house his well known
good roads bill. Acting on the criti-
cisms OF opponents and the sugges-
lions of friends. Colonel Brownlow has
revised the bill somewhat, but all the
important features have been preserv-
ed. The new bill appropriates $S4,-
100000 to be used as fund for ma
tional aid in the improvement Of high
ways. This sum is made available
during the next three years, at the rate
Of eight millions annually. No state
or subdivision thereof can secure any
part of this fund without raising an
amount equal to the share received.
The distribution among the several
states and territories is to be made
on an equitable basis, so as to leave
no room for '1og rolling"
In reference to the bill, Colonel
Brownlow said:
II think my good roads measure has
made wonderful progress during the
past year. Conventions all over the
country have Endorsed it, and a num-
Der Of state legislatures have adopted
resolutions in favor OF it. The num-
Der of public men who have come out
for it has exceeded my highest ex-
pectations. In the west and south
the sentiment for the bill is especially
strong. A large number of senators
and members from those sections have
assured me of their willingness to
support the measure, and it will also
have some strong support from the
eastern states, where state aid has
paved the way for national aid. I
can't see how any man representing
rural constituency can vote for river
and harbor bill and refuse to vote for
my bill. And l don't see how any one
who wants the rural free mail deliv-
cry extended in his state or district
can refuse to support measure to aid
in improving tie roads, for bad roads
are almost the sole obstacle to such
extensions. am hopeful Of getting
the bill up for discussion in the house
early in the regular session."
The Kendrick gazette. [volume] (Kendrick, Idaho) 1892-1968, 1903-12-04

Grover Cleveland says he is not q
candidate. He absolutely declines to
even consider nomination for the
presidency.
In the presence Of crowd of about
1900 persons, composed Of whites end
negroes, Phil Davis, Walter Carter
and Clint Thomas, all negroes. were
lynched recently within short dis.
lance of Belcher, which is 20 miles
from Shreveport, La. The men were
executed for participating in the fatal
shooting of Robert Adger, popular
business man.
The Kendrick gazette. [volume] (Kendrick, Idaho) 1892-1968, 1903-12-04
Heath REPLIES,

Salt Lake, Utah, Nov. 30.-When
Former Assistant Postmaster General
Perry S. Heath, now proprietor of the
Salt Lake Tribune. had read the re.
port Of Mr.. Bristow and the memordan.
dunn Of the president tonight, he said:
II shall not hesitate to publish In
the Salt Lake Tribune every word of
this memorandum of the president, al.
though there is not syllable in them
except official comment, so far as per.
tains to myself. that is news to the
public. I hope my enemies, as we'll as
my friends. will do me the justice to
read it carefully The newspapers
have been kept informed and have
been publishing it all during the past
year. That which has hitherto been
generally regarded as newspaper
criticism, it IL now revealed. was of.
fetal criticism in disguise.
1T is no surprise to me to see the
denunciation of me in this report.
The author Of it, from the time he
entered the postofice department up
to the present moment, has, in his of.
fetal capacity. pursued me personally
in season and out. as every one who
has been in public life in Washington
during the past six years knows.
The Kendrick gazette. [volume] (Kendrick, Idaho) 1892-1968, 1903-12-04
Cases Of Chief Offenders.

The three chief offenders in the gov.
eminent service were Tyner, Machen
and Beavers. The friends Of Tyner
have advanced the theory that in his
case the chief offender was really his
nephew by marriage, Barrett, who
was his assistant in the office for a
part of the time. and that Tyner's Of
lenses are due to his failing bodily
and mental powers. The facts set
forth in Mr.. Bristow's report do not
tend to substantiate the validity of
these excuses for Tyner, while they
show literally astounding misconduct
in Barrett. For Machen and Beavers
no excuse Of any kind has been al
legged. In the case of Metcalf. the su.
perintendent Of the money order sys-
tenn the most vigorous protests were
at first made on his behalf by q large
number of reputable citizens. and also
by others who were at the time deem.
ed reputable, but who it has since
been discovered were profiting by Met
calf's misconduct. One of them has
been indicted in connection with him.
When these Investigations were be-
gun, some nine months ago, many of
the chief offenders who have been in.
dicted or dismissed, or both, as above
enumerated, were considered to have
excellent regulations. A number of
the most respectable people in the
land offered voluntary testimony on
behalf Of Mr.. Tyner. So highly were
Messrs. Beavers and Machen thought
of by those who had been brought into
close connection with them that the
congress actually provided at its last
session for raising the salaries of both,
the salary in each case being In.
creased $500, to take effect at the be-
ginning Of the fiscal year on July 1
last. By that date they were both
out Of Office. and the department of
justice was taking steps to have them
indicted. During Machen's term of
service he was twice Investigated by
the congress, once by a committee of
the senate and once by a committee Of
the house. but cleared on each occas-
ion. Yet at that very period. as has
The Kendrick gazette. [volume] (Kendrick, Idaho) 1892-1968, 1903-12-04
PosToFFIcE FUNDS SHORT,
Over Eight Hundred Dollars Taken in
Portland.

Portland, Ore, Dec. 3.-Postoffice
inspectors, acting under the instruc
lions of Chief Inspector Linn of this
district, are Investigating the Portland
postoffice. 1t is said that their search
has progressed into fruitful channels
sum of money, said to exceed $500,
having been taken from the cash draw.
er and an I. o. U. placed in the draw.
er in its stead. Postmaster Bancroft
has, it is understood, made good the
shortage.
The Kendrick gazette. [volume] (Kendrick, Idaho) 1892-1968, 1903-12-04
Widow of Fred DOUGLASS,

Washington, Dec. 3.-Helen Doug
lass, widow Of the late Frederick
Douglass, the negro orator, died here
aged 65 years. Mrs. Douglass was the
second wife of Frederick Douglass and
was q white woman.
The Kendrick gazette. [volume] (Kendrick, Idaho) 1892-1968, 1903-12-04

Australia has, as the result Of last
years drought, bought. since January
100000 bushels of wheat. or it's equiv
alent in flour, from the Pacific coast
and 100000 bushels from New York.
The Kendrick gazette. [volume] (Kendrick, Idaho) 1892-1968, 1903-12-04
One Third Market,

Tacoma, Wash, Dec. 3.-About one
third OF the Washington wheat crop
has been marketed, according to the
estimates of State Inspector Ar
rasmith.