The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1903-06-07

are lacking IN churches. as such things go.
There is only one Greek church Of any
Importance within the walls "a large. mod
ern looking building and priests and
monks do not abound. There is also in
the town one small Latin convent Qtalian)
and chapel. There are several large
mosques of a type quite unlike that which
one sees in Egypt or Turkey. These look
at the present time strangely deserted
and are for the most part closed.
The town still shows signs of the late
war for freedom, and there are number
Of ruined houses on the seward side
relics of the bombardment by the Eu-
ropean Powers During the late war Can
dia was in the hands of the Turks. In
retaliation for a massacre which the
Greeks perpetrated in Sitia the AIoslems
began to mas sacre the Christians III Can
dia whereupon the fleet OF the Powers
bombarded the town. There are, how
ever, fewer evidences of this sort of the
late war for freedom than one would have
expected. nor does the war and the pre-
ceding century-long struggle between
Aioslems and Christians seem TO have left
that bitterness OF feeling which one would
expect. \ number of MOslems are said To
have migrated when Moslem supreme "
was overthrown, but those who remain
ed are not only unmolested but actually
privileged. The Cretans feel that they are
on trial. and even plain peasants say,
I'VE must he careful to treat the Mos
lens well. so that the world may see
that we are capable of governing our
selves" There was daily during my stay
at Gambia a small market on the steps of
one of the mosques, at which Moslem
peasants sold rugs. towels. and the like
of their own weaving and here and there
1 noted a Moslem shopkeeper. Crete,
formerly so famous for turbulence and in
surrections, seems now to be the very
home of peace and quiet. 1t is safer than
Greece, and far safer than Turkey. The
population was disarmed by the troops
of the Powers at the close of the war and.
partly owing to this disarmament. and
partly owing to their desire TO justify
their independence or partial indepen-
dence in the eyes of the law abiding citi-
zens, so that one can travel unarmed with
entire safety, am told, in any part of
Crete. From my own experience 1 can
say that this was at least true of the
neighborhood of Gambia.
The removal of the seat of government
from Gambia, which is the largest town,
to Khania, toward the western end Of
the island, has not tended to increase the
commercial Importance of the former, but
a number of steamers still stop here on
theiS way from Alexandria TO the Pyraeus
and there is abundant opportunity of
speedy communication with the world and
of transport for all wares. The MAN, if
not the only industry OF the place and
the neighborhood is the production of
olive oil. A steam olive press has just
been introduced in Gambia at the time of
my visit. IT was located near one of the
gates. / visited ii at the invitation of the
proprietor, who showed it 10 me with
great pride, explaining how much more
oil could be pressed out OF the olives by
this means than by the horse presses IN
use elsewhere. While he was showing it
to me the mill broke down, to his chagrin.
He said it was the first accident that had
happened to it since he had put it UP,
and also that l was the first foreigner to
whom he had exhibited it. The grapes of
Gambia, and indeed of all Crete are de-
licious, and a very fair wine is manufac-
tured. No other crops were in evidence at
the time of my visit. but, in spite of the
apparent lack of industry and of com
merce. Gambia and its neighborhood seem
to be thriving and pushing forward with
considerable rapidly.
No one interested in the history Of
Greece, no observer Of social and eco
nomic conditions, can fail to be intensely
interested by the state Of present condi-
tons in this formerly unhappy land. Pro-
gress in every direction has been remark
able since partial freedom was granted
to the people. Financially the island is
on a gold basis, and whereas in Greece
there is a depreciating currency, in Crete
money is worth its fact value. OF course
the country is very poor. This scars of
long abuse are apparent everywhere, but
at the present rate of recuperation the
island bids fair, within a short time, to be
as rich and prosperous as of yore. To be
sure. it is still in part under foreign con-
troll. At Khania, the capital, the French
and Italian flags float along with the
Cretan flag; besides the Cretan postofice
one still finds Austrian and French post
Offices at Gambia; but the self-control, in
dustry and energy in the last four years.
that one may look forward hopefully TO
the period Of complete withdrawal of
foreign administrative control.
The object of my visit TO Gambia was
not. however. for the study of social and
economic conditions, but for archaeology
cal purposes. There is in Gambia. rudeIy
housed in some old Turkish barracks.
museum of the first Importance for the
study of the Mycenaean and early Aegae-
an civilization. one of the first acts Of
the Cream government was to take steps
10 protect and preserve the remains OF
antiquity 10 be found in the island, and.
out of its poverty. funds were set apart
for the maintenance Of two museums. one
the more important. at Gambia for the
antiquities of the eastern. and the other
at Khsnia. the capital for the preserva-
ton of the antiquities of the western part
OF the island. The government was for
tunate in finding an intelligent and devot-
cd man. DR.. Hazzidaki. to place at the
head of the museum AT Gambia. With
small means. he has labored unremitting-
- hNAAA 20 N'Atfte t---A4'I tAl-tt-3 anu tA-N
TO make their ineligible to scholars and
to the general public.
The remarkable discoveries Of Evans az
Knossos the later discoveries Of the Ital-
ians at at Phaestos OF an. American WON
an Miss Boyd. az Kavousa. and Gournia,
the ancient GOrtyns and OF others At
Priauos. Zachro and the Kamares region
and elsewhere have enriched this museum
with treasures which are unique