The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-08-01


effect is smart in the extreme and the owner
asserts that. with the addition or sweater,
she is In readiness for every morning occa-
sion that may arise At least one shirt
waist suit of pongee or some similar ma
terial should be included in the list OF need
fuls. While by no means new, these simple
dresses have become almost necessities and
fit so many occasions that TO De without
is to find oneself unfortunately placed.
The palmer IL is the smarter IL Will be.
Trimming belongs to gowns of quite dil-
ferent sort and one realizes that more
fully than does the woman who Is always
well dressed. y few simple frocks of mus
lin never come anliss and. when crisp and
fresh, are charming on any summer day.
MORE ELABORATE GOWNS.
The more dainty gowns designed for the
mountain trip do not differ widely from
those of the plains or of the sea, but con-
form 20 the prevailing mode. Almost no long
skirts are seen on gowns designed either for
the street or for walking. but gowns of in
door and carriage wear continue to be grace
fully trailed about. For the afternoon drive
nothing is more smart than linen in its
lighter, more delicate weaves, but veilings.
thin silks and the like all are in vogue. A
most exquisite gown of linen is in delicate
shade of shell pink and is deliberately
trimmed with Valenciennes lace. The ma
terial is embroidered with tiny fieur de lis
scattered over its surface. The skirt is
made with three gathered f1ounces, moder-
atey full, with between them plated frills
of four-inch Valenciennes lace made very
full. The bodice Is the inevitable blouse
with big cape collar, finished below the
shoulders with four plated frills of the lace,
and with wide, loose sleeves that are round
ed up at the outside of the arms and fin
ished with single lace frill each, and that
fall over big bishop sleeves of sheerest lawn
that are very nearly covered with narrower
plaitings of lace. At the waist is a sash of
pink taffeta with a twist of black tulle at
the upper edge, whose long, loose ends fall
at the back with those of the silk The ac-
companying hat is big, low, fiat, in picture
style and is of white chip with white
plumes and palest pink crushed roses be-
meath the brim. A second gown of linen is
white, with black polka dots, and is
trimmed with black velvet ribbon, so COM
pletey have we divorced all idea of laun-
dering from the fine linens now in vogue.
Crepes de chine, tussore, pongee and all the
pretty thin wooden fabrics are admirable
for these gowns. Many of these are elabor-
ate in the extreme. but again comparatively
simple models are seen at the smartest re-
sorts, so that there is ample opportunity for
choice. AS lovely a crepe de chine as
any I have seen is of pale pink, and
is made with the full plaits in the
skirt that are so extremely fashion
able. The lower edge of the skirt is
inset with three rows of Bruges lace. 1t is
sun-plaited and stitched fiat well below the
folds the material takes. Beneath it is
foundation of silk yelled with mousseline
and edged with plisse frills of the same.
The waist also is plated and opens over
a plastron. which Is inset with medallions
of lace edged about with a tiny bit of panne
In the green of real jade. The sleeves are
finely plated at the shoulders, are caught t
with the panne midway between that point
and the elbow and are gathered into cuffs
of lace that show touches of the green.
The wide girdle combines the crepe and the
velvet, the pink and the delicious jade
green. Plaitings, by the way. are much in
favor and are exceedingly graceful worn
by slender figures. A most exquisite veil
ing in banana yellow is made with sun
plated skirt that is quite plain, a plated
bodice with big draped sleeves and tiny
and IS trimmed only with insets of lace on
skirt and blouse, put In before the plating
is done. Louisine and all soft silks are
charming so treated and made up with
comparatively little trimming. most eff
fective one in white louisine is made with
a skirt finished only with rows of fancy
stitching above the hem and plated bod
ice with very wide sleeves that are held by
narrow cuffs of embroidered muslin over
which is worn deep cape collar OF SIM
liar embroidery. Deep cape collars make
Those of embroidery are daintily charming
and new, but those OF lace also are much
worn and will often serve to renovate an
bargain prices, will be certain to prove n
good investment and to help out marvel
ously in making the changes demanded by
WRAPS AND EVENING GOWNS.
Cloaks for afternoon driving are of pom
gee. silk and linen, made loose with ample
sleeves. but it is well to let the mountain
outfit include one. at least, of genuine
warmth. For these panne cloth. silk lined,
are charming. Half, three-quarters and
full lengths all are in vogue and the style
may be ornate or quite simple with equal
correctness.
Evening gowns are much the same the
world over. However much daytime sports
and customs may vary with environment
the evening means indoor pleasures and
the usual evening dress. This season all
diaphanous and filmy materials are given
first place. Chiffon cloth is a pronounced
favorite and deservedly so for it has all the
beauty and grace Of the original material
with additional durability. Silk mulls are
hs ked and stv aFe made s hns
crepe ninon, eoienne, almost everything
that can be shirred and plated is in vogue.
Fine embroidered muslins, too, are worn
by young girls and are exquisitely charm
ing. much admired gown made for
debutante is of point desprft net that is
enriched by delicate lines of palest green
floss worked in to give lattice effect. The
skirt is simply gored and made with two
deep gather flounces above which is a
garniture of white chiffon roses with their
green foliage. The bodice is in baby style
with big. pulled sleeves that extend to the
elbows and is finished with flowers about
the low neck nestled in soft folds of net.
At the waist is a draped belt and sash of
louisine silk showing varying shades of
green. The gown is made over green silk,
yelled with white net and Is delightfully."-
youthful and cool In appearance. 1t is by
no means elaborate. Neither the material
nor the labor need involve any great cost
yet the effect is as delightful as could be
asked. Shirred gowns are in the height
of style and are beautiful made of the soft
chiffons and nets with really little trim
ming What tends, more than anything
else, to give the needed effect of airy moth
ingness, or fairylike lightness rather, is
the interlining of mousseline or net Moth
ing else produce the result. Without
Ii the effect is lost. Summer evening
gowns should always be simpler than those
of winter wear Just such lovely things
as result from the of the nets and
gauzes over gauze are in the best taste
and in demand. Greater elaboration and
heavier fabrics can we'll be reserved for
cold weather use. Change the world of
fashion mush have. 1t is we'll for every
reason that the change to warm weather
should mean simpler, less ornate gowns
than those worn when the greater formal
tiles of winter are at their height. One
and all we need our holiday time and
everything that tends TO make ii one OF
greater relaxation is to be welcomed and
treasured for reasons of health as we'll as
of pleasure. MAY MANTON.