The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-01-24
THE WINTER FASHIONS
FIRST INTEREST YET CENTERs IN
COLD-wEATHER APPAREL.
Worn. but They Are Not Always
the Most Effective.


given rise to temporary interest in styles
that are 10 come. the really interesting
question of the moment is that of present
needs. Here in Gotham we seldom know
severe cold for any consecutive length of
time. Winter means few days of ice and
snow followed by thaw, then a repetition
thereof. AS result one sees wide variety
in winter clothing. There are those women
who keep unremittingly to their furs, let
the thermometer drop as IL may; and there
are those who disdain heavy wraps, both
being equally smart. A walk on the avenue
the other day brought this fact home with
peculiar force and showed some contrasts
almost absurd. The day was mild one.
As j strolled up past the big hotels and
watched the throng OF pleasure seekers 1
saw long, enveloping cloaks of fur almost
side ny side with natty suits of velvet,
fitted so snugly there seemed little OPP
portunity for the INFRINGING that means
warmth, and / saw gowns of heaviest cloth
In contrast with those of light weight can
vas Almost everything appears TO be worn.
The one all-abiding law is that which calls
for a becoming costume. Details, even ma
terials are of comparatively little moment
so long as this edict is obeyed. While 1T is
unquestionably a sumptuous season and
while splendid costumes are freely worn,
those that, after all. make the successes
are those which suit the wearer and render
her at her best Overrichness is as often
fault as oversimpIicity. Not all women
can carry velvet gowns with fur trimming
and accessories. 1t not infrequently hap
pens that the we'll chosen costume of
cloth suits the wearer far better and rem
ders her far more attractive. In my walk
times II
noted women gorgeously gowned who
looked far from well, and l saw others
walking buoyantly along in well-fitted tall
or gowns with fur as scarf and muff only,
who were visions of womanly beauty and
style not soon TO be forgotten. The wise
these facts and who dress with view TO
effect. not TO splendor alone.
EFFECTIVE COMBINATIONS.
AS charming any of the recent cos
tunes seen are those of brown velvet and
brown cloth. AS it was easy to foresee the
fecked materials have become far too COM
mon to retain their smartness Unques-
tionably the handsomest costumes are in
plain color and soft nut brown is a favorite
as are greens and grays. The browns are
superb trimmed with sable. but are quite
sufficiently attractive with the less COSTLY
trimming OF mink, or OF stitched bands with
velvet touches on the coat and softening
bits OF lace at throat and wrists. Squirrel
est women and its soft gray is very gen
orally becoming. but nothing ever dsplaces
the brown furs and really good mink is
really quite as elegant as any woman. not
multi-milionaire's wife need ask Gray
Veivet with chinchilla is exquisite and is
much seen. Really elegant costumes show
quite plain skirts, with either three-quarter
fitted coats or coats of the tunic order
The latter are worn with jabots of yellow
ace so at the throat and falls Of the same
cuffs OF the fur or stoles or scarfs of some
sort To my mind no one of these last is
more attractive than the drectoire scarf
when gracefully worn, but alas how often
Is u spoiled by being carelessly draped or
awkwardly carried. 1t is revival and
revival OF the days when women studied
TO be graceful whatever else they lacked
Rightly worn IL means beautiful lines and
a sweet feminine dignity that always car
ries Its charm, in spite of the present mania
Tor athletics and semi sculine pose.
Inc scarfs are seen In all furs and are al
ers. in silk and chiffon. with touches of
velvet. showing that their favor will be ex-
tended 10 the spring. With those of fur
are carried big, big muffs, and also have
seen fancy muffs with those OF chiffon. but
these last are designed for evening wear
at the present time rather than for the
spring. when we shall have done with hand
warmers for many months. 1t by no means
is always the most costly or elaborate fur
trimming that gives the best results. AS
elegant costume as I have seen is OF
champagne-colored cloth made with a
bounced skirt and oddly shaped tunic coat
Narrow bands of sable edge the skirt and
the tpnic, but are seen nowhere else collar
Guns and bands being OF Persian embroid-
cry A most elegant and becoming even
Ing cloak Is OF beige cloth and shows lust
tiny edge Of sable outlining the front edge
and the yoke of heavy crochet lace. AS of
many another thing. so is II true of fur as
an effect not gained by over lavish use.
FASHIONS IN SKIRTS
Gowns Of canvas, wolfe and the like are
much tucked. much plated and much
shirred. but. in spite of some statements to
the contrary. that fact by no means infers
that snug-ftting skirts are passing out of
style. In whatever form the fullness may
be arranged it is held snugly above the
knees, allowed 70 flare only below that
point. A new skirt, and one that promises
10 be a favorite. is made plain and snug
from the waist to the knees at the front
put slopes upward at the back, and is edged
Win deep graduated fiounce that Is ar
ranged In shirrings for the depth of sew
eral inches. The lines are graceful and he
comlns and the style one altogether to be
com mended A dinner gown seen recent
~ Is or white crepe de chine so treated
with waist that is shrred TO form a
yoke and upper portions of the sleeves and
is trimmed with appliances of cream lace
An evening gown of cream crepe ninon is
snlrred TO form yoke that is thirc
the depth OF the skirt and includes bo.
dice, completely shirred. with a boIero 81
lace and long dropping angel sleeves of the
crepe On the skirt. midway between the
edge and the yoke, is an inset os lace tina
matches the bolero. Simpler plated skirt,
are stitched fiat TO fiounce depth. A mos
effective walking costume of dark red mot
tied zbeline Is laid in box plaits that ar,
so stitched and shows bands of plain rec
cloth in the spaces between. The accom-
panyfng coat is a blouse. with deep tunic
that is finished with a fiat round collar o
the cloth Combinations of the sort ar.
much In vogue and are effective in the ex
IRENE Also the coat may be taken as sug
gesuve or what Is to come, for all rumor.
tell or nat collars no collars and of thi
same tunic coat. Accordion plaitings ar,
apparent everywhere. but are treated afte
mover manner. One recently arrived
SKIRT OF white wolfe is shirred to form !
hip yoke. then falls in the full plaits. An
otner consists OF three fiounces which ar,
plated, then partly pulled out at the uppe
euges. "A really striking gown shows a mar
row front panel, OF the plain material tina
IS EXTENDED TO form a yoke at sides an,
pach Win 1ulI plaitings attached to tn,
YOKE fiaited Doleros, too. are seen. 4
most exquisite gown of black velvet is mad
with such tiny coat with wide full sleeve
over oodlce or black chiffon over white
"A novel skirt Is so plated that the plait,
meet at the sides and Is arranged in tvy,
narrow box plaits at the back The plait,
from the front turn backward those from
the back forward and meet at the bins
Ptpings are much used and are efYecfiye
A gown or white canvas, made as lust de
scribed. Is piped with palest green and in
cludes plated bodice with a fun berth,