Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-06-27
matter for those padding. a. II was against
q swift current
Shopping Again.


Shopping Again.
Another day we took one OF the three
carriages to be had at Srinuggur. hearse-
like thing, with an unopenable top anu
drove through the old bazaar. At first our
driver made manifold excuses. the streets
were too narrow or the roads too bad, put
these we put aside, as We knew that an
other of the three carriages had been an
through the quarter the day before. so
finally. exclaiming in dreadful Hindustaneo
that we would report him to the mahara-
jah, we began to get out. when he at once
gave in and we were of down through the
narrowest of streets, full of little open
shops built in the wall. and around sharp
corners, pursued by an inQuisitive crowd
who were one and all polite, and also py
dreadful smells, of which the whole quarter
had more than its share. We nnaily reach,
ed the third bridge, and as we started
across a gong was sounded forth Welroiy
over the river. We could not discover why
this was done, whether because OF the
great honor done to the ancient prlose IN
having a real carriage cross 1t or whether
to inform the swarming population that
such was the case. or, again, whether as
warning to us that we were mourning DAN
ger in crossing so rickety structure. anu
we never could find out the truth Srinug-
CUR is supposed to be 400 years old: and
one can easily believe it when one looks at
the bridge, and across it to the houses with
their upper stories propped up on poies
When we reached the first bridge. on the
way back, we inquired In HinduStanee II
this was the first or second bridge. and our
driver promptly answered. '1ss. sir. 1t Is
the onest bridge. Get out In 1t, sirs! Inc
prettiest things about the old town are the
roofs of the houses. All the roofs are made
of mud, and in spring grass comes up
greenly all over it, SO that each house own
er has a brilliantly green lawn on top of
his house, and at times the more artistic OF
them plant bulbs or flower seed, and then
one sees a lovely sight! At one place the
housetop was covered with mass Of scar
let tulips. at another Of tiny pale purple
iris, and the other day we saw one COM
pletely covered with a wild orange lily
which grew in clusters.
The Eternal Feminine.
The hotel proving so very cold, we deter
mined to try living on our dunga, so we had
our goods and chattels moved down, and
started forth one sunny morning to get
things in order and prepare the dunga for
summer home. The deck arch had had
rush curtains put over it. the middle one
rolling up, the side ones stationary and
gaily embroidered in colors. On the little
inclosed deck we put few rugs, two easy
chairs with cushions, tea table. with plen-
ty of books, and carved stool holding
large, shallow bowl of growing pansies.
The little sitting room we made still cozier
by covering the rush curtains over the
opening into the first bed room with the
quaint curtains of Islamabad called gabbers
and draping the bare places in the doorway
with some lovely bits of embroidery on cot
ton drill
some book shelves, some few rugs and a
dhurt for the floor; and lovely old brass
hanging lamp, which proved to be not only
ornamental, but useful as well. We had
fire baskets to warm our feet, earthenware
pots covered with wicker which all the ma
tives carry about under their chuddars full
OF burning charcoal and with our thick
mats down closely at night our lamp light
ed and our f1rebaskets glowing, we felt as
warm and coy and happy, much more so.
l should think as the traditional clam"
We spent happy week there, at the foot
of the post office stairs our only annoy
ance being the native jewelers., embroid-
erers and tailors, and all the other native
shopmen who bring their wares in boats,
and come In one incessant stream from
morning until night. First we would be
box on his head. the "sweets-wallah" as
our bearer announced. then would come a
fruit-wallah and then on the river side an
enamel and jewel merchant. who, when told
that we were busy, insisted that we had
told him to come that day and would we
not allow him to take out few things for
us to see. That is their crafty idea, and
one Is quite taken in at times. OF course,
after they have got footing on the deck.
one is lost. for 1t is next to impossible to
resist their enchanting wares. Our meals
were sent from a houseboat near by, and
we lived happy life. the only drawback
being that we were of necessity the prey
Of the native wallah. The time came at
last when having added to our menage a
cOokboat. another but smaller dunga,
which always followed on behind and on
which our boarmen slept, we set sail for
Islamabad. in company with the dining
boat and one or two of the boats of our
friends and. as we were being poled away
from our snug corner between the canal
entrance and the post Office stairs, we saw
in the distance the beginning of the long
line Of ''preying" merchants in their boats
and breathed sigh that we at last were
free. MARGARET STIRLING.