Evening star., 1903-07-28
FRANCE AND HER SILKS
AN OLD INDUSTRIAL STRONG
HOLD MENACED.
The Only Hope Of the French Lies in
Establishing Factories
Here.
Jules Huret in Le Figaro.

Jules Huret in Le Figaro
In the course Of that gigantic struggle
between old Europe and young America-a
struggle which is already more like mas
sacre-the only fortresses that have not
been taken aside from the wine trade.
which we manage to hold on to in the face
Of German and Californian competition)
are the production of French fashions and
of French works of art. On this double
ground, however narrow the space 1t occu-
pies in the vast realm of commerce. we may
thank our stars the Americans don't yet
pretend to show fight And here the Ameri-
cans are wise. The fashionable women OF
New York smile when YOU mention the
anti Partisan crusade undertaken by the
local dressmakers. who have perpetrated
an original. but rather innocent. species of
bluff AS for the arts of painting. sculp-
ture and architecture. and for the in
dustrial arts. 1t is not too much to say
that when America has bought up our mas
terpieces at whatever fancy prices we
choose to ask she can do no more than to
send us her best endowed youngsters and
to attract to herself the least home loving
Of the sons of France.
French Fashions.
The reign OF French fashions and French
premacy of the old world in the new con-
tinent. Thanks to French fashions and
French art. young and proud America bows
down. in amazed and impatient expec-
fancy. before the slow acquisitions of ages
past and the prowess of a traditional cul-
ture. For Germany and England are beaten
on their own ground: American machinery
and American iron and steel have invaded
Manchester and Dusseldorf.
Besides the realms of fashion and art,
there yet remained to French industry two
fields in which, several years ago, 1t could
rival the industry of America; these were
the silk trade. Of which we were undisput-
ed masters. and the manufacture Of motor
vehicles. in which we are still without dan
gerous competitors. / shall speak today of
the silk industry. The following official
figures will serve better than any words
Of mine to show you how colossal has been
the development of America during the past
thirty years. In 1870 the United States had
SO silk factories. with capital Of 81. coo:
twenty years later 4Si factories, with a
capital Of ISL ,OOO. 600: and in 1902 some 800
factories, with capital of $1~,OO00O. At
the end of 1903 the United States will have
a. 600 power looms in operation. The value
Of the product amounted in 1870 to 6OGo,-
COO francs, in 1900. to 5350oO,Oo0, and in
1902, to 625 600 600.
A still more extraordinary phenomenon:
During the same period the consumption of
silk increased at 50 rapid a rate that the
Importation of silk from Europe, far from
declining, steadily went on increasing. In
1870 1t was valued at 11O,mo.OD frances;
In 1900 1t had risen to 130,oO,OOO, and in
1902 to 15O.OO.OOO
Silks From Lyons.
Lyons increased its consignments to the
United States every year, despite the in
creased customs duties. Though certain
dealers the Rhone saw their business
with America falling off, the grand total OF
Lyonese expectation has steadily grown
Black velvets, black taffetas and the mus
Inns of the province Of Lyons remain un-
rivaled in the market to this very day.
All these figures dance before my eyes,
while 1 write in the midst of the din that
comes up from the streets, from the frantic
and ceaseless rush OF the cable cars which
roar like wild beasts let out OF their
cages. For once statistics mean something
and tell an eloquent story. them swell
and tower like an Irresistible wave. Here
nobody respects these figures. Statistics
cannot for a moment check the ambition
OF these people. The American spirit Is in
full swing, and forges ahead freely, un-
governably, toward more work and more
wealth. To be always on the move. always
'husting,' always running and jumping
that Is all the Americans know care for.
Railways multiply, all across the continent; ;
II olley cars. like express trains gone mad,
become daily more numerous in all their
cities factories loom up; immigrants pour
in from Europe to make their homes on
this favored SOIL quite as in the old days
the money makers fiocked to Carthage
New York Is actually the largest raw
silk market in the world. 1t buys more
than third of all the silk that is pro-
duced. 1t fixes the price Of unbeached
SILK. In three years more. If American
production keeps the pace 1t has held dur
ing the last five years, New York will buy
half the silk produced in the whole world
Where will 1t stop?
cent OF what 1t consumed; in 1890 80 per
cent; in 1880. 55 per cent; in 1900. so per
cent; In 1902, 30 per cent What an amaz-
Ing rate of consumption! Add to the 625
millions Of American silks the $50 millions
or imported silks and you get the formfd-
able total Of 775 million francs, about ten
francs per capita. which in France for
the 500 millions manufactured. only about
l56 m1llions-S}a francs per capita-sta ys
in the country.
Luxury in America.
Why this enormous demand for a luxury
Ike silk? You will find. upon examination.
two reasons. In the first place. Americans
live to work. to earn. and to spend. In no
other country on earth is there less econ
omy or more work. In France. for in
stance. one sees In every street the sign
Preparing done here" In America moth
ing Is repaired. When clothes, shoes. un-
derWear or furniture wears out 1t Is thrown
away, machinery ten years old goes to the
scrap heap; buildings are pulled down and
replaced with higher or more modern ones
Luxury, in all it's shades is general
naturally. Every American woman has a
veil, silk gloves and silk in some part of
her costume. Moreover, as there are no
classes on the railway and in street cars
the shop girls, the dressmakers and the
housemaids wear the same hats Chat is
the same style of hats) the misses and
ladies. They cost less the gloves are less
expensive, but the fashion journal finds its
way into the most remote and the most
thoroughly rustic communities, and high
fashion aside, all Americans dress alike
The negro women are not turbaned In yell
low and green: they have hats almost
Partisan. and boas. and plumes. and the
latest style OF corsets. Besides they are
no longer negresses; they are "colored
ladies'" The servants go out on Sunday
and often during the week. They are
nightly giddy. and many a rich New York
merchant who growls at the independence
and the exacting impudence of his servants
would have to shut up his shop If the ser.
want class stopped spending their excessive
wages excessive. at least, in the rich mer
chants opinioD for finery. since the SER
wants purchases are really the chief factor
in his own success