davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-12-12

lined with brown velvet. This velvet lining
is a clever Partisan dodge, az the soft lin
ing clings to the gloved hand. and one does
not have to hang on like grim oeath TO
the net ephemerality.
The fur pushes are not FAR behind the
real skins in favor. These plushes make
such pretty coats to wear with cloth skirts
and line many OF the long cloaks. In some
cases whole costumes are composed Of this
material, particularly In mole color. The
pardonable weakness for the always be-
coming white effects will insure popular
ity for the cream caracal plush that has
been introduced with the other illuminating
pushes.
To come back to the Christmas present
subject. antique Jewelry or a reproduction
of the antique Is another gift the smart
woman will value most this year. Salique
designs are unQuestionably the thing, but
as they are very expensive are not within
the reach of all. The Celtic Antique jewelry,
which gets its name from being limitations
in miniature of the designs on Celtic crosses,
is very much priced. Carried out in semi
precious stones. a buckle pendant or clasp
is thing of beauty to be coveted.
Dainty Trifles.
Dainty trifles for my ladys dressing ia
BILE are always plentifully supplied in the
Partisan shops A pretty woman must al
ways looks attractive. seem fresh, untired.
unexhausted. even If she Is all these and
knows 1t. One touch from one of the magic
boxes which laden the dressing table, and
time and the hour are obliterated. AS one
smart woman said, 1t is only In expedients
of this kind that life is possible. The charm
ing possibility comes this season In many
alluring forms, but the Sevres china toilet
accessories are the newest and most APP
proved. Very ingenious is a little round
ivory box about the size Of an American
quarter of a dollar with a beveled glass
top. The lid screws off. and inside are re-
vealed the tiniest powder pun imaginable
and sprinkling of red or white rouge. Oh,
yes. it's all very frivolous and vain, but 1t
is nice companion to have with one when
travelling and one actually feels ones nose
getting shiny.
CATHARINE TALBOT.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-12-12

other. to be sent no doubt, deliberately done
up in the wrappings of an exclusive house
Well. some one has said If women had
logical, scientific minds they would lose
all charms: so l suppose whatever her little
failings they lean toward fascination side
Always Right.
Furs and jewelry seem to be the leaders
In the gift line. The furs of the season are
so luxurious in makeup and so extravagant
In price that one accepts them gratefully as
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-12-12
Mistresses Need Training.

From the Brooklyn Eagle.
Schools for the training of mistresses
are much needed as schools for the
training of maids said a woman who is
actively interested in philanthrophc work
and is frequently called upon to secure
places for worthy young women in search
of employment as domestics. Some of the
estimable women who come TO me with
tales about the inefficiency of servants
would probably consider such speech rank
heresy on my part, but l hear both sides
of the story, and l do not wonder that so
many girls prefer factory and shop life to
dc nestle service. In the factory or shop
they have certain work to perform in a
certain time. Then they perfectly free
to do as they like In domestic service tho
hours of service are mighty elastic and the
he urs of freedom rigidly defined, and in
many houses where the mistress thinks
herself and is thought by others to be very
charitable and broad-minded her servants
lead a life of drudgery. OF course there
are homes where the mistress Is treasure
and the maids likewise, but this oft dis
cUssed servant problem and the proposed
regeneration and reformation of the maid
is not the one-sided question so many con-
slider it,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-12-12
Error in School Books.
From American Medicine.

From American Medicine.
The makers and supporters of the school
text books on so-called physiology have
made many blunders in their well-meaning
attempts, but there is none so fundamental
and so absurd as that of failing to see that
the young should be taught how to main
tain or get health instead of how to avoid
disease. No reform or progress can amount
to anything that is built upon a negatiOn.
No anti-movement accomplishes an end OF
any value. In language two negatives are
said to be equal to an affirmative, but our
habitual speech ignores the absurdity, and.
in morals and social life, two negatives in
collision are wholly resultless. physiol-
ogy that devotes Itself TO pathology is ride
ulous, and is itself pathologic 1t is a mis-
homer at best and beyond question is not
sanitation and hygiene adapted to the child
mind. These subjects should be treated
from the positive standpoint for the young.
and the love of health, play physical per-
lection and strength should be encouraged
and illustrated, not the avoidance of NOR
bidity. OF all the outrageous things pos
sble to be inserted in school physiology
the illustration of the end-products of dis
ease and sin. hobnailed liver, etc. are the
worst conceivable.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-12-12
NM0lhAz1
+ @TD

a Christmas present even IL they do come
under the head of necessaries.
One set of furs is merely an aggravation
in these days as the perfectly gowned per-
son must not be seen constantly wearing a
certain kind even should they be priceless
sa BILE. The fur must needs match or at
least harmonic with the costume, or all
smartness is lost.
There is no reason why furs should be so
high except in the case of sealskin, perhaps,
which Is getting scarce. Take ermine, for
instance. 1t has always been a royal fur:
nevertheless every child used to have tip
pet and muff made of a good skin, and
nothing remarkable was thought of it. Now
we have to pay a kings ransom for even a
little of the skin to use as trimming.
Ermine Cravat
One of the Christmas novelties Is a little
ermine cravat which may be worn over any
kind of a fur coat or velvet jacket. Some
of these cravats have black velvet ribbon
rosettes and strass buckles to fasten them.
Others are ornamented with a narrow
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-12-12

both street and house dresses. Moleskin Is
proving effective when combined with
velvet.
Monkey Fur Again.
Another fur which has a partial revival
is monkey. 1t is used for jackets trimmed
with ermine or other contrasting fur. The
stoles, with muffs to match, are very pref
ty in monkey.
For many seasons white lambs wool has
been delegated to infants wear. The dain-
ty little collar and muff sets were much
admired on the four-year-old toddlers. but
modistes are just awakening to the idea
that lambs wool may be quite as dainty
for wear by the grown-ups. The craze for
white has started the notion. Now effect
i've wraps and coats for women are made
of this snowy fur, contrast being given by
a trimming of stitched bands of soft-fin-
ished cloth.
chic fur evening wrap is of white
lambs wool, with strappings and edgings
of pale blue cloth. There is cape collar
with stole ends of the fur, but the small
collar overlapping this Is of the blue cloth.
and so are the pulled undersleeves. The
carriage shoes for wear with this wrap are
particularly dainty. They are of blue
satin, edged with the lambs wool.
Big Bag Muffs.
The big bag muffs which Dame Fashion
affects this season are particularly pretty
on the lambs WOOL So are the short col
larettes They are fastened in front with
a gilt clasp set with turquoises, and the
short ends, which barely reach to the bust
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-12-12
Some Good Things for Christmas.

Boiled Turkey and Oyster Stuf1ng.-Take
a medum-sized turkey and stuff it with
the following ingredients: Chop four ounces
Of suet very fine, mix 1t with six ounces or
bread crumbs, the grated rind of half
lemon, teaspoonful of chopped parsley.
salt, cayenne pepper and grated nutmeg TO
taste. Take the boards off two dozen
oysters, add them and Their liquor, Strain
ed, and lastly two eggs. Truss the bird tie
1t in buttered paper and then in cloth.
Place the turkey breast downward in boil
ing water, let it come again to boil. skim
1t well and simmer gently for one hour
and half or longer, according to the SIZE
of the bird. Serve with rich white sauce.
Chicken Timbales.-Put the raw breast
of two chickens through a meat chapper
and add a teaspoonful of salt and a dash
of pepper. Into this mixture put, one at a
time. the beaten whites of three eggs and
then a pint of cream. Small timbale molds
should be well buttered and then lined at
the bottom with buttered paper. Fill the
mold two-thirds full of the chicken and
bake in the oven in pan surrounded by
hot water. When ready for serving turn
from the molds and place around the tim
bales a white sauce.
English Walnut and Orange Salad.-Peel
and slice lengthw4se four oranges. Pour
over them four tablespoonfuls of olive Oil
and one tablespoonful OF lemon juice. Ar
range the dressed oranges on lettuce leaves.
Have ready one cup of walnut meat which
has been mixed with one tablespoonful or
oil, dash of salt and little lemon juice.
Toss all together before serving.
Christmas Plum Pudding.-Crumble
pint of bread crumbs from the center Of a
stale loaf and pour over them one cup OF
scalded milk. When cool add three-quar-
tiers of a cup of sugar. one teaspoonful or
salt and the yolks of four eggs beaten to-
gether. Chop half pound of suet and
thoroughly mix with 1t a half pound oh or
raisins currants and almonds. Add tea
spoonful each of cinnamon and nutmeg, a
third of a teaspoonful each of cloves and
mace and the whites of the four eggs stiffiy
beaten. Serve with hard sauce.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-12-12

barely admits the two hands, and leaves
scent room for handkerchief or pocket
book.
Moleskin has this advantage over many
different shades. Light and dark moleskin
are combined effectively in one piece. A
pretty little collar, or pelerine, has broad
stole ends, which come to the waist line.
Both collar and stole ends are formed Of
a strip of light-colored moieskin, bordered
by darker shade. The same plan is fol-
lowed with the muff, though on 1t the
stripes run crosswise.
Some of the fur pelerines have very mar
row stole ends. These are intended to be
crossed over the breast In a quaint fashion.
They are held in place by a metal clasp
or ornament of soutache braid. The
long stole ends are usually trimmed with
similar ornaments. They give rich eff
feet
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-12-12
| UXU Rio us FURS
Mole Has Displaced Squirrel
Skins.
THE HUMBLE MONKEY
ERMINE PIECES HAVE GROWN
LARGER.
Therefore Are Much More Expensive
Other Costly
Fads.

Written for The Evening Star by Harriet Hawley.
One of the largest fur importers in this
country sat at his desk last August when
the thermometer was in the nineties and
explained why he could not take time for a
vacation.
II am too busy bringing in furs," he ex-
planned, land they are mostly for the holt
day trade"
The Christmas fur trade has become the
largest factor in the seasons selling In
deed 1t is safe TO predict that the sun of
December % will shine upon more women
made happy by new furs than ever before
in the course of its long and varied expert
ence. This is so because the world of man
kind has discovered that no more accept
able gift for wife sweetheart can be
bought From Maine to Louisiana, what
ever the temperature. women will wear
furs and wear them lavshly.
But there are furs and furs. Dame Fash
ion Is never so caprfcious as in the realm
IT rurs: The favorite Of last season is
a new one. 1t is moleskin. 1t is soft and
velvety, and makes a good background
Tor the lace applique and colored passemen
ter1es which are adjoining the fur coats
ana Jackets-a whim Of fashion that seems
somewhat barbaric, but is meeting with
high favor, nevertheless
Buttons in gilt or enamel in bizarre
designs, are being used extensively on the
fur jackets. An elegant little moleskin
Jacket is in a blouse shape drawn into a
hght-ftting belt 1t has moderately deep
cape fitted to the shoulders and slashed up
In points. These points are turned back
to Show facing of brown satin, en-
broidered in gold and white and held in
place by gilt buttons. The bell sleeves are
rather severe and tight-fftting as far down
as the elbow, but thence widen out into
large puffs. The bottom of each sleeve is
adorned with small turn-zback flap, faced
with the embroidered satin.
Mink and Leather
A mink coat is treated in the same fash
lon, except that the facings are of white
suede leather, appliqued with a leaf design
in tan suede, and the belt is of the same.
Since moleskin has become fashionable, it
has so vastly increased in price that imi-
tations and substitutes are already flooding
the market, and some of them are most
clever.
Since fur is so much used in millinery,
eLterprising dealers are showing fur sets.
which consist of a toque. pelerine stole and
great fiat mufT. An attractive set of this
description is of moleskin. The stole ends
reach below the knees and widen out into
pointed ends. These trimmed with
raments of silk braid with cord and ball
pendants. The same trimming appears as
on the muff, the ornaments being joined by
draped silk cord in military effect
Very few of the new sets are in squirrel,
but after the surfeit that the world of
women had of 1t last year, this will cause
sn all regret. Mink, marten, sable and
moleSkin all correct, either for Separat tie
fur pieces or wraps, or for dress trimmings
Fur trimmings will be largely used on
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-12-12

edging of moleskin. and from the ends hang
long strands of black and white chenille
fringe
simultaneous popularity of very large fur
stoles and the little ties The ties look best
with the long coats and the large stoles
with the short jackets. An ample coat and
portions.
One could write volume upon the beau
ties of the new muffs. their expense Ghe
cheap muff does not exist; at least the
cheap muff that can be officially recognize
ed. their manifold shape and form and the
thousand and one materials that go into
their making.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-12-12

PARIS. November %. 1903.
The feelings of this present generation,
which is not given to hiding its light under
a bushel, are never more evident than at
Christmas time. or, rather, the busy days
preceding the holiday season. Instead OF
the hearty spirit OF hospitality which once
reigned under the widespread ding rooftrees
the sole idea of Christmas cheer now
abroad among smart Parsians is to leave
home to the domestics, relegate revelry TO
the servants quarters and fly the occasion
of family parties by taking rooms at some
fashionable hotel. THIS modern spirit Is
not to be commended and does not carry in
its wake the Christ teachings which We're
democratic with universal good will to
men, and not snobbsh eXClusiveness. But
we are modern nowadays, exceeding mod
ern. and the ways Of other days are not
our ways.
A few Partisan grandes danes who lead
the fashion in ideas as well as in modes
have set the new Christmas pace, and their
clientele will not be slow in following in
their footsteps.
This holiday exodus naturally hastens the
Christmas present buying @eason, for If the
spirit be lacking the Christmas gifts will
not be found wanting in number or in kind
The shops have already put on their most
fascinating holiday attire and are daily
bringing out some So-called novelty. OF
course the Rue de Ia PaiX and the Rue de
Rivou. with the Elitter.ng shops and eIe-
CANT array of IS. are the streets where
the Christmas shoppers go Tor their most
stunning presents But it is surprising how
many times one meets madame in the de-
spised Bon Marche, and always walking
around with that unmistakable caught-in-
the-act and 'I-haven' t-an-idea-wh y-I' M
here" air. If one elegant woman meets an
other in this pleheian precinct the first re-
mark usually heard is, Run in, my dear,
Just as l have. to get something for the
troublesome servants.
The truth of the matter often is that these
same women We're at the moment of meet
ing engaged in selecting gift for one an
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-12-12
de12&19-2t
ine are trimmed with heavy white silk


fringe
The short collarettes no matter in what
fur they fashioned, are trimmed and
fastened in this manner. The metal clasps
afford another outlet for extravaganza,
which is eagerly seized upon by jeweler
and modiste The fringe is frequently of
a contrasting color, either alone or mingled
with white.
Nor is silk cord the only material for the
fringe. Chenille is equally as popular, and
has an even prettier effect. An ermine
a six-inch-deep fringe of alternate strands
of black and white beads. 1t is bizarre
enough to please the most outre fancy.
Ermine has it's usual vogue among smart
people. The fad for black and white has
led to more than usually frequent imita-
items, but 1t seems almost impossible to
initiate it effectively.
Small Ermine Scarfs.
Ermine pieces usually take the form Of
small collarettes and tiny muffs to match,
but this season it is being used much more
lavishly. A long stole is made of the ami
mails entire. The skins are put on alter
left on. The stole is very broad. probably
four skins in width The broad pouch-like
muff is twice as wide.
The new bag-like muffs are not partic-
ularly pretty from an esthetic standpoint.
nor for an economic one. They consume an
almost incredible amount of fur. and there
is much waste space which might have
been utilized for a shopping bag. The
opening for the hands has been moved from
the center of the sides to the very top. 1t
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-12-12
As Explained.

From the Chicago News.
Myer-"It is a. well-known fact that old
Gotrox is a millionaire. yet you say he has
a light income
Gyer-"Of course he has light income.
Isn't he president OF q gas company
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-12-12
A Pretty Christmas Decoration.

Procure a square Of silver tinsel for the
table center. At the four corners put
vases. with sprigs of holly in them. and on
the tinsel sprinkle a quantity of loose holly
berries. If finger bowls are used have sew
eral berries floating in each one
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-12-12
Muffs Are Large.

Muffs may be counted details. but such
details go to prove the rule that they are
the important items in a womans toilet.
practical, it is not too tightly stuffed and
may be pressed to the face as a defense
against the icy blasts that blow around
every corner in winter.
1t is most artistic in it's shape, the name
of which is legion. and is made of many and
delightful materials that vary from the fur
which will resist all wear and weather to
the chiffon which will stand neither. \
new model is barrel shaped and looks as If
ii were fiat. with large frills at the sides
This shape is ideal carried out in Russian
sable and adorned with many tails. The
new caracal. Persian paw lamb and chin
chilla all make up beautifully into these
large styles. Ermine in a muff looks better
slightly draped as do all the thinner furs
which are at their best when not tightly
strained over a wadded surface, especially
if the muf be large.
The model which attracts me most is the
heart-shaped one that Langtry has made
popular. 1t is a remarkably pretty affair
and in long-haired fur like sable or the diff
ferent shades of fox. looks remarkably WELL
Frivolous Finery.
The French adore the muff made of vel
vet chiffon and all kinds of frills and feath-
ers To wear with a brown net dress has
been constructed the daintiest little hand
warmer of the same material. The brown
net is of the coarse-meshed silk variety
which stands wear without end. Mink tails
are the trimmings used. and the muff is
The Coalville times. [volume] (Coalville, Utah) 1894-1923, 1903-01-02

The Brooklyn suspension bridge
1854 feet long-ls sim tho largest
suspension bridge In the world. The
new East river bridge has span OF
1000 fccet. and its capacity ia far
greater than that OF the Brooklyn
bridge. Each of its four cables has
n safe strength OF over 100000
pounds In tension. The Washington
bridge over the Harlem river consists
OF two spans OF 5lO feet In the clear.
The Roobllng suspension bridge at
Niagara was replaced In 1897 by n
spanurol.hracod. two'hlnEod, steel
arch OF $50 feet span. II acoommo-
dates the railway tracks on the upper
deck and a highway below. The sec
ond Niagara bridge replaced the Clif-
ton suspension bridge IN 1898, AID as
It's span Is $40 feet II II the largest
arch OF any type In the world.
In 1901 the Pennsylvania railroad
built a stone bridge consisting OF
forty.oight sogmcntnl arches on sew
enty feet span over the Susquoianna
river. II accommodates four tracks
and cost about si.o0OOO0. but "a
cost OF maintaining It ls very small
The address OF Prof Jacoby Of Cornell
university from which these figures
are taken should be referred 20 by
all interested-an who is not7--ir
recent progress Of the sort Il II
printed in Science of July 4.
The Coalville times. [volume] (Coalville, Utah) 1894-1923, 1903-01-02

state. And the consultors OF tho arch.
diocese Of Chicago when death claimed
the venerable Archbishop Feehan in.
cluded In the trio OF ecclesiastics OF
their choice the vigorous young bishop
Of Buffalo.
For neither OF the two great posts
was Bishop Qulgley voluntary can.
dldate. when his name was mentioned
in connection with them he announced
in all frankness that he would prefer
to remain In Buffalo. where his boyhoo1
and all the years OF his ministry had
been spent
The now archbishop gave up the
chances of military career to enter
the church. While a student at st.
Joseph's College. Buffalo, he won. In
competitive examination. an appoint
ment TO the United States Military
Academy Many of his friends urged
him TO take advantage OF the oppor-
tunity, but the lad wayering between
shoulder straps and surplice. gave his
allegiance to the church and allowed
his alternate TO report In his stead at
West Point
Previous TO his entrance at 81, 10.
sephs College. Bishop Quigley had
acquired such knowledge of books and
men as was offered by the common
schools of western New York. He
was born at Oshawa, Canada, Oct 10,
1854. but his parents crossed the Dor
dar vphav ha ,yoe ,ft.f t,vn v.ara ola
and took up their residence at Lima,
N. Y.
Bishop ouigley was graduated from
81. Joseph's College In 1872 and en-
tered the theological seminary OF NJ
agara university In the following Sep
TENDER
His brilliant mental qualities. his
piety and devotion TO the studies OF
his course brought the young semi.
marian 10 the attention OF Bishop
Ryan. who kept IN close touch with
the seminary.
At the bishops suggestion and with
his assistance. young ouigley, after
three years at Niagara. went abroad to
pursue his theological studies at the
university Of Innsbruck. In the Aus
trlan Tyrol
A course at Innsbruck was the pref
ace 10 a longer and more rigid train
ing a. the American College at Rome
under the immediate direction Of the
college Of the propaganda, Science
ard literature az well Rs theology con
Z" Aute1 TO the meug equipment Of
yourg man, ard In lTl az me
aso OF 20, he was l'yan o., degree Of
doctor OF divinity he va ordained
about the same time and returned to
America TO tafe a. ue duties OF q
parish priest