The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-10-04
THE "KOSHER DELMONICO."
A Restaurant That Has Continued on II
Own Lines Nearly Fifty Years

On the business card Of a restaurant in
the upper wholesale district, this card be-
ing printed on a curious little combination
memorandum book and Hebrew almanac,
which the house gives away, appears this
legend: 4Kosher Delmonico.' The restau-
rant has been long established in the city
and in some respects is like hardly any other
in New York.
1t was founded in 1857 by Felix Marx,
a French caterer and cook. His first place
of business was in lower Broadway. between
Warren and Murray streets, opposite the
City Hall Park. 1t was restaurant of
high grade in which all the food served was
prepared in accordance with the Jewish
code. 1t at once attracted a high class
of patronage from Jewish merchants.
business men and others; and in the same
manner in which it was founded, and with
the same class of patronage, it has. with
some changes of location, as the town grew
and trade shifted. been ever since main
tanned. 1t has been in its present location
for good many years.
1t is big and comfortable appear ing
restaurant, with nothing about it's equip
ment to indicate its distinctive character.
One might, or might not. according tn lis
wants, miss the butter that is not seen N
the tables. There is no milk or cream OF
butter used in the establishment, and no
game is served that would be shot. and
so not killed in accordance with the code;
and all the meats and all the fowls here
used are prepared strictly in accordance
with the code. But as it is the cooking, and
not the manner of the killing, that deter
mines the taste of the food eaten. the food
Iar1A NNlyu ,tr
similar food would look and taste in any
other restaurant.
This restaurant serves but one meal
day. a table d'hote, from II 30 o clock in
the morning to o'clock in the afternoon,
and so it has no bills of fare; it sells nothing
by the card. But there is never any lack
OF variety. The menu is Of course changed
daily; and there is besides each day choice
to be had in the entrees, the roasts, the
salads, the fruits and the desserts.
Serving but one meal daily, and that at
a uniform price, there is no need for and
there are no cash checks; every person eat
ing pays at the desk upon his departure
the same amount; it can be no more, no less.
This characteristic OF the restaurant is of
course well known to its regular patrons,
and it is quickly learned by newcomers.
OF the patrons OF the restaurant, proba-
bly frofR three-fourths to seyen-eighths
are Hebrews. The men dining here are
merchants and business men from the
neighboring region, including many from
Broadway, and there are some who come
from considerable distances in the city,
and some who come from Brooklyn. Among
other than regular daily guests there are
also always to be found here men from
near and far, customers brought here BY
merchants and buyers, from many parts,
who, when they are in town, come here to
eat. The restaurant is as well known in
Texas and California as it is here.
This restaurant has among its older
customers some who have followed it
through many years, some from the be-
ginning. But there are scarcely SO many
old men or men of middle age to be seen
here as might be expected. The greater
number are of middle age or younger than
that; there are now eating here plenty Of
younger men whose fathers ate here before
them.
The company to be seen here, Of what
ever age, is noticeably a good-lookinr
company. The men all are well dressed
and almost without exception well groomed
1t might be difficult to find another res
taurant so big that is so little noisy. Not
that the patrons Of this restaurant don't
they take their time and eat leisurely and
comfortably.
Felix Marx, who founded this restaurant
nearly half century ago, conducted il
himself until six years ago, when he sold
out to it's present owners, some of whom
had been associated with him for years,
and returned to France. But later he re-
turned to this country again and here he
died on Sept. 81 last at the age OF 49,
He had made and lost money in the course
of his life, but he died man of property.
His picture, hanging upon the walls OF the
restaurant he founded and which, though
he is gone, Is still continued upon the lines
that he laid down. shows man with spec
tacled eyes and gray moustache, a man
with strong but at the same time gentle
and kindly face, toward whom one would
naturally be drawn.