The San Francisco call., 1903-12-20


SO that the figure Is not visib1y thick
ened thereby.
Sleeves are made in all sorts Of ways.
but perhaps the prettiest is the debu-
tante. sleeve, which shows a fullness
as far as the elbow, where it is met
by a very deep cuff which extends
down to the knuckles. This cuff must
be unbuttoned to admit of the hand
slipping through
Another sleeve, just as pretty and
more In favor, is the sleeve which is
the genuine shirt waist sleeve with
narrow cuff. The cuff fastens with a
long point which laps over and is
caught with little button or with a
hook.
Miss Roosevelt's Luncheon Waists.
Miss Alice Roosevelt is reveling in
pretty shirt waists this fall, for each
time she appears in public she wears
a new one. She chooses them for lunch
cons, morning calls and 5 o'clock teas
They are in every shade that can be
imagined, with a preference for the
tans, the browns, the deep reds, and
all the shadow tones.
One waist was a marvel in prettiness,
being in an Indian red canvas worked
by hand down each side of the front.
The design chosen was the coaven-
tioral chrysanthemum, which was car
ried out in rose colors with the stems
in green. Surely this gave an oppor-
tunity for a very nice exhibit of handi-
work and the woman who is handy
with the needle could do a great deal
in the way of embroidering her shirt
waist fronts.
Another wash waist. worn recently at
a girls luncheon in washington. show
ed bands of narrow canvas, put on as
strappings down each side of the front,
each band stitched with machine
stitching upon each edge.
A great many of the tubable waists
are trimmed with brass buttons, which
are removed for the tubs sake. And
the putting on Of the buttons Is one
of the self-appointed tasks of the win
ter girl.
They are taking the old white waists
of last summer and are working them
down each side with a great pattern in
dark red, either a big diamond pattern
or a Greek scroll. Then, down the
front, they are setting brass military
buttons, thus giving the finishing win.
ter touch to the waist which is to be
worn until Christmas and afterward.
Still another luncheon waist, also
worn by Washington girl, was trim
med with simulated box plaits, very
narrow and running from the shoulder
seam right down to the belt. The waist
was buttoned invisibly under wide
box plait. and upon this plait were
groups of brass buttons, in little rows
Of three each.
The Christmas Waists.
If you are going to give a shirt waist
for Christmas present 1t Is essential
that 1t be one that has the touch of
your own hand upon IL. The personal
thought is thus expressed and, antici-
pating this, there come the most beau
tiful waists, of very heavy quality,
with large pattern stamped upon the
front. This can be worked by hand in
silks or in wash cottons, until the waist
is a work OF art, as we'll as Of utility.
Mrs. T. c. Platt and Mrs. Chauncey
M. Depew are both adopts at waist en-
broidery and the former is seldom seen
without a needle threaded in coarse
cotton, pulling the threads through the
stock which matches ner latest waist
She wears the Indian colors a great
deal and is very partial to the Indian
reds and the Indian blues, while deft
touches Of white are used to bring out
the tones more prominently.
1t must not be supposed that the