davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-09-13

The flower designs are larger than ever al q
consequently not becomir & to all figures :
but they are delightfully."- artistic and some
Of the designs in soft blurred colors upon
lack ground are CT ough to tempt even
a short fat woman into buying them.
Zibeines, broadclotlis, and Scotch SUIT
irgs Of all kinds lead the list III heavy
fabrics, and the woman who has a severe
tailor suit of neutral huod Scotch mixed
wool, shot through with nu'S OF bright
color, and an afternoon gown OF fine broad
cloth or plain zilelire may rest content
with her equipment for out of door wear
The fancy zibelines are stunning. but
one might easily tire OF them. and that IL
a point TO I've considered by the woman OF
limited means As between broadc'oth
and fine, plain zibeline for dressy cloth
frock the conservative vot" would bc for
cloth The zibrlilc is new, fashionable
and beautiful. but broadcloth Ia always
correct. always gives an impression OF
quiet elegance, and in it's present perfec-
ton of quality is more adapted TO the modes
Of the day than the Zbelines though the
latter are surprisingly soft and fine in text
ure this season,
There is the usual cry that bouses and
boleros are going out, but the French model
frocks show many boleros. and blouse
makers arc serenely turning out new models
by the thousand The prevalence OF the
yoke is the newest feature of the tailored
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-09-13

bright color shows so little that il il In no
way conspicuous,
The new braids and passementeries are
legion, and braid III combined with every
thing. from fur to lace, Mas bands OF
plaid silk, alternating with bands OF braid.
the two connected by fagot stitching. are
novelty and bands of lace fagoted to braid
in the same fashion are another develop
ment of the same idea. Fine gmps
outline the design m heavy iaces and edge
band trimmings of all imaginable sorts
Wonderful passementeries made 10y many
kir-- of silk braid in combination, cords,
penlants, frogs, ,assels, frinCcs. are used
In pfofusion Much is done with cut out
clotn. too, ~ trimming.
Madeira work cloth buttonholed in color
and plain cloth with cut out designs are in
high favor, and bands Of cut out cloth
applied on cloth of contrasting color
are offered in the shops or may be fashioned
expressly for the individual costume.
Cloth lace. made of cut out designs in
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-09-13

hat lines 70 American taste. Talk with
any of the Place vendome dressmakers
| about the -stubbornness Of American
patrons" You will find the same sug-
gestion everywhere La belle Amer'cd'ne
goes to Paris for her fashions, ana alters
them to suit her own ideas.
All Of which H. merely by way oil empha-
sizing the fact that many OF the NODES on
view at the Fashion Show and IN the '~'ab-
lishments of various importers "hlheNer
lie exactly duplicated for wear by we'll
dressed American women; vet American
taste ha. been orsidered in the collection,
and n large proportion Of the ideas Nus
tra,ed will be accented here without chang &c.
The Parisian has accepted all 1890 details
without protest, hut the straight skirt
full from the waisthard, the stralgh, ruil'cs'
the horizon al skirt trimming L, the pel"rlne'
the balloon sleeves and the high girdle
have made way slowly here. Even now
there is ulIes, ion as TO the extent TO when
the full skirt ard the horizontal trimming
will he accepted for winter wear NNa
sler der. tall woman wears them supremeiy
well. ard for the beLefit of the short an"
fp, there will doubtless be some com
promise.
Fer the dressy gown in very soft material
the fun, straight skirt has uraueetionah'y
been adopted here by the best dressed
women but the skirt yoke, which has almost
disappeared in Paris, still holds consio'f-
shle favor here, ard gowns maze WIN
skirts full from the bar d ar" still III the mn
oritv, though GAZING in favor Ararro"'
plain parcl or fla, plat down the skirt fror
,os,,es concession to the straiEht-irorl
ee,ure and number Of the best model
at,sip this same result by using scam
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-09-13

pendants Of all sorts corresponding to raised
ornaments on the lace.
Macram6 or string lace is the feature
upon other cloth or velvet models. and
especially upon fur and plush garments.
The wool laces, too, have their place, but
have not, so far. been able TO rival the
fibre lace
The thin and delicate laces have by no
means been ebowed aside. but they neces-
sarily give place to heavier varieties in the
trimming of winter cloths, and are re-
served for the more sheer stuffs. Chantilly
and Alcncon hold their own and Valen-
ciennes will keep the tremendous vogue
it acquired this summer, being used in tiny
frills, in edging, in ruching. and frequently
combined with other laces of heavier
quality
The multiplicity of frills and hounces
in the gowns of crepe, wolfe, chiffon. nous
seliIe, &c, absolutely demands a narrow
and dainty lace edging and lenciennes
is the IDEAL stuff for the purpose 1t makes
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-09-13

also the ideal ruching for the wavy scroll
designs which are the trimming for so
many of the straight full 1880 skirts. One
of the frocks illustrated in small cut
here has such n skirt, the scroll pattern
being worked out in ruchings of creamy
Valenciennes, upon the full straight falling
skirt Of corn color mousseline. The single
surplice fichu and full sleeves Of the bodice
are trimmed in narrow frills of Valenciennes.
The apparent simplicity Of a majority
of the new skirts in sheer materials must
be exasperating to the dressmakers who
wrestle with the problem of giving these
full. straight skirts the proper lines.
chiffon skirt sketched here falls from
SHRED yoke and is trimmed at the bottom
only with long irregular lace motifs inset.
Another has four nuns plaits running
around the bottom and above them
broad band of heavy lace with narrow
tafreta straps which button to the upper
most nuns plat. Two more OF these
! horizontal plats appear above the lace
band.
This model Is, hy the way, a particularly
modish one 1t is of fine red wolfe OF the
new shade called heradry, and with the
skirt already described, il has blouse the
draped shoulder hood of which has lace rev
ers strapped in tafreta The sleeve is fun
! above long lace cuff silk strapped, the
little guimpe and collar are Of lace, ard
on the front Of the bodice are two big square
tafreta rows. the lower having long, tas-
| selled ends.
Bows of che shade or another are used
lavishly upon the new frocks, and strappings
are employed upon both street frocks and
dressy frocks, Plain cloth, strapped IN
silk, silk strapped in cloth, lace strapped
in cloth, and even chiffon or moussene
strapped in cloth are all in view.
Pipinps of velvet or silk are seen every
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-09-13

fashion. with a full skirt on which four
narrow straight ruffles are sct at wide inter
walls, each rufie headed by milliners'
folds
A woke formed Of bias hands Of the silk
fagoted together and 4 bertha In deep
scallops OF batiste embroidery and lace
are on the full blouse, and the sleeves are
very extreme, being composed of two
very full balloon ruffles Of the silk, reach
ing to the elbow and standing out aggrcs-
sively over an inner pun Of embroidered
batiste.
Sleeves formed of ruffics or tiny frills
are on a great number of the dresy frocks,
and corresponding frills often nover the
entire bodice, the top fril running all
around the decolletage like shallow bertha
This mode is charmngly simple and at
tractive in an evening frock of chiffon,
mousseline or other sheer stuff, and does
away with the necessity Of expensive
trimming.
A bodice model of this type ilust rat ed
among the sketches here has broad hand
of lace Il i,s full skirt, above four little
ruffies. narrow ruffie with heading,
bordering the top Of the lace and falling
over it, but the skirt might quite as well
have been trimmed solely by number Of
frills corresponding with those on the
bodice
Surely the debutantes and young girls
should have appropriate and charming
dancing frocks and evening frocks this
season, for all these frills and ruchingR
and shirrings are particularly youthful.
md there is surfeit of sheer dainty youth
full fabrics from which to choose,
Applique flowers of chiffon lightly at
tacbed at ore point ard har ging loosely
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-09-13

where. and line of piping in bright orange
panne, subdued by q line of black silk
piping, is one of the notes of color relief
most frequently sounded Plaid pipings
on pain-tone goods are>another trimming
fincied, and. indeed, with Pnrisians, plaids
have assumed much Importance both in
dress stuifS and in trimmings.
Beautiful plaid Effects are achieved in
the new Ztbelnes the tones being 30 sub
dued and 80 artist cally blended that the
material is in no may eiaring or consplru-
GUS In other woods, 100. there are at
tractive paidr, and the plaid silks are hand
sOmer than ever before.
Plaid ribbons, vide or narrow, are most
successful trimmings, and are set on as
fiat band borders and skirt bands, or, in
narrow widths, form little ruchnga to be
used upon plain coloI Deep girdles Of
folded tartan silk supply the only gay
color upon some chic little bolero and skirt
models in plain dark serge or cloth; and u.
as has been said before, bias bands Of plaid
silk agoted to bands of fibre braid make
a pretty trimming for a dark frock
Broad plaid ribbon IL sometimes laid
fiat on the bottom Of skirt and on il are
run lines Of NATION black velvet ribbon
A corresponding band, but narrow, IL set
on the skirt AZ the knees and the trimming
IL repeated upon the bodice.
Checks while not 80 popular as they
have been during the sumner, are seen
among the autumn silks and wOOllens
and the soft finish check taffetas will he
worn far into the winter, if not through il
One new model 81 this kind II IN checkad
mauye and white, or. rather, purple and
white, and Ia made ia quaint old ORD
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-09-13

flannel IRE made for slipping ON over thin
shirt waists and are very chic affairs, cut
to show as much m possible Of IL" shirt
waist while furnishing additional warmth
They are little coats, tight fitting IN tH"
back cut down like the wairtcolt Of "A uan's
evening coat IN front belted and furnished
with tabled basQIrs
The very full sleeve ends at the elbow
IN broad turnhnck Gun, and IA, rounded
r"vers or collar finish Tia" coat In scarlet
green or marine blue, with cuff reyrIs and
belt Of blach MORE such a cont j. most
attractive for Youthful ""trer
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-09-13

upon cloth are often very beautiful. but
the chief novelty in embroidery is the heavy
padded wool embroidery which ornaments
some OF the smartest cloth model frocks
and coats.
Wool embroidery on silk or chiffon is
shown and garnitures of wool embroidery
with fringe or pendants in wool and silk are
new and striking. These garnitures are
frequently carried out in mixture Of
many blending colors. and the fancy for
vuriegated or muNi-colored effects finds
expression III Il host Of ways. six or seven
colors sometimes entering into the color
scheme of one costume.
Prominent among the novel dress dccora-
tons is u Persian lamb trimming which is
made Of black silk fibre and is very good
imitation. 1t is used in band trimmings,
in medallions set in with heavy lace or
braidng, and Is a part OF some OF the hand
soonest passementeries.
The fibre laces offer another field for the
successful silk fibre; and these laces in
Cluny patterns are taking the place Cf the
linen thread ClGny so popular during the
summer The silk fibre laccs take all
colors we'll and are charming in the delicate
tints coored to match light hued frock
material.
One of the most successful gowns among
the French models at the Fashion Show was
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-09-13

down the middle OF the front A few skirts
fuled all around are shown, but they are
exceptions.
Just what will be done with street skirts
remains to be seen. The popular Zibellnes
and other wool goods are surprisingly
light in weight and soft in texture, but.
even so. they are awkward when handled
with much fulners For the walking trock
and mannish tailor suit the t'aring plain
skirt of many cores will doubtless solve
the problem on this side the water, and
when plated skirts are used the plaits
will be kept fiat down to the knees.
In Paris some zibelines and cloths are
being made with the very full skirts. but
there are various compromise models.
The double, triple or many-hounced skirt
promises to hold its prestige, but in the
heavy stuffs the flounces are very closely
fitted, each faring just enough to follow
the sweep of the cleverly-cut foundation.
The deep-shaped founce, so long favor
tie, is not now considered chic, yet is as
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-09-13

much in evidence as ever, only masquerade
ing az part of the skirt, That is, sweep
ing-shaped hounce may form the lower
part OF a fitted skirt. but ii must be 80
trimmed that it will appear to be an integral
part OF the skirt sweep rather than sep
arate founce.
Groups of nuns plaits at the bottom, at
the place where the Rounce joins the body
of the skirt, and again at some distance
above, will accomplish the desired result I,
and any horizontal line trimming may be
used In the same way.
Soutache braid is to he much used upon
at rect suits, and it makes an excellent
horizontal trimming for the shaped skirt
II is made in the popular silk fibre and in
all the modish shades and good effect il
obtained by setting II upon band Of cloth
or silk cont rast ing in color with the frOck
material instead Of applying II directly on
the frock
The braid should be stitched on lie upper
edge, but left free at the lower edge, so
that there II chance for n gnl Of the
OF using one wlde row Of sOutHChe IN this
fashion eral rows Of narrower width
are set upon the band Of brght-coIored
cloth OF silk, IA hair-hns Of ia" color being
| allowed To show etween them
on a frock of dark blue serge rows OF
| black soutachn set upon band Of orange
or bright red cloth are effective, yet line
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-09-13

blouses or shirt waists in face CLOTH flannel,
&c
The yoke has come as response to the
demand for a long shoulder line, though
in some of the blo,lses the effect is obtained
by the use Of epaulettes; and much ingenuity
is displayed within the circumscribed limits
allotted to the tailored shirt waist.
The group Of blouses sketchcd in the
large cut is fairly representative and Illus
trates a number Of the best yoke and cravat
ideas Cloth in fine quality is the material
for all Of these models, but the French
fiarnels and vevetecns of the season make
attractive waists, and there is beautiful
and varied assortment Of mercerized vest
ings and cheviots offered for cool weather
shirt waists.
Some Of these merccrized vestings in
dark plaids, checks. &c, are not intended
for the tub, but heavy white, tub waists
will be universally worn this winter by
the women who affect shirt waists all the
Year round.
Shirt waist jackets in broadcloth or
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-09-13
PARIS MODEL GOWNS
Schemes Of Winter Dress Now
on Trial.
DOUBT ABOUT STREET SKIRTS.
Heavy Stuffs Not Adapted to the
Prevailing Modes.

Compromises suggested 20 Make the PODu.
lar Zibclinrs and wool Goods Avail
abic--Naric,y and Reaut! Of the New
Trimmings Fibre Laccs Espe-
ciaIly StyIish-A Multiplicity OF FrilIs
and FiOunces on the Lighter Gowns.
Buyers, merchants and dressmakers have
so far been the persons most Interested III
autumn fashions, but the women who are
IN the city are begnnlng to gro" "h'hu-
siastic over ChTons, and GROVE s OF other
women are pouring into town from the
resorts, all with mind, intent upon the
planning Of cool weather out tits,
TIE most fashionable people VIII ho'
DRIFT uityward until November, but. aver
all, they merely adopt established MODES
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-09-13

merous among the fan"y silks SILK gren
adines ard eilk nets IN plain color and
Powered will be more fashions able than
ever and are, perlIap+, III" most durable
of tle light ~ d airy fnbrin plaid ELK
gref adlre IL amor y the ovoitlee ~ d has
excellent pose ililes
Inuumerable gauzy SIX tissues are pm
forward under odd lanes ard the Powered
Tissues are to retain their summer prestige.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-09-13

are greatly liked as trimming for evening
gowns and hand painting figures on some
of the most exquisite of the imported
evening frocks i'll chiffon, mousseline,
soft silk and crepe. The new crapeS are,
if possible. loveier than those Of last sea-
son ard no material in market surpas Sos
them in beauty Of texture, sheen ard color.
The meteor crepes and the crapes dc
chine deliberately hard embroidered are
beautiful beyond de- cription. Ombre or
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-09-13

Is always a puzZIing question, in which the
French makers are deeply interested.
1t was one Of the great men OF the Paris
fashion world who said frankly that Ameri-
can ladies' and French demi-mondaines
were the most profitable patrons Of the
Partisan dressmaking establishments, and
while the association is somewhat startling,
it was meant in compliment to our country
women, for the Partisan deni-mondane
Is the most perfectly gowned woman in the
world.
Since American patronage is essential
to the French dressmaker's prosperity, a
decided effort is made to satisfy American
taste, and the arbiters of the modes
long ago discovered that Americans could
not be bullied into adopting an extreme
fashion unless by chance the idea happened
to appeal to them. Modes have been Sue
cessful in Paris which absolutely could not
find a hold here, despite all efforts to make
them popular, and it is an acknowledged
fact in the Partisan ateliers that French
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-09-13

cloth. woven together with lace stitches
in heavy silks or WOODS is another cloth
trimming of which the French designers
seem to be particularly fond. It enters
into the making of many Of the cloth model
frocks and is much used in trimming the
coats of long haired zihene, plush or fur
This cloth lace idea is also introduced into
some of the cloth robe patterns.
Chenille is extensively used in tassels,
fringe, embroidery and in combination
with other materials in handsome passe-
menteries. Embroideries in shaded chenille
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1903-01-16
JAKE SMITHS POLICY
Facts Brought Out in the Second
Trial of Major Glenn
at Manila.

Manila, jan l5.-Six officers VINO
served in the island of Samar testlneu
today before the courtmartial when
is trying Major Glenn on the charge
of unlawfully killing seven prisoners
Of war in Samar The witnesses mostly
detailed the enemy's acts of barbar1ty,
such as burying persons alive, mutllat-
ing alive and dead persons and tortur-
ing and numbering prisoners and ma
tives in sympathy with the Americans.
The defense produced an order OF
General Lukban directing the use OF
poison against Americans. The court
admitted as evidence the captured re-
port revealing additional features OF
the plot which led to the Balanglga
massacre.
The witnesses agreed that the policy
of Brigadier General Jacob H. Smith
was necessary and that it ended the
Instruction in Samar.
Captain Smith testified that the
friendly natives who were refugees IN
the mountains in his district petitioneo
TO be allowed to return to the town
and promised to support the Ameri-
cans. Captain Swayne said the witness
told General Smith they would die OF
starvation if left in the mountains, anc
General Smith, the witness added, said
Let them die. The sooner they are
dead the sooner We shall have peace.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1903-01-16
SILENT ON THE
WAGE QUESTION
No Agreement Was Reached at
the Chicago Conference.
EeAN WILL FOLLOW HERBERT
UNION PACIFIC GETS RESSEGUIE
FORMER SALT LAKE MAN.

Much curiosity centers in the result
of the recent conference of officials at
Chicago. 1t is pretty we'll understood
that one of the principal questions dis
cussed involved the wages of the shop
men of the western lines. It was ex-
pected that some understanding would
be reached which would dispose of the
matter satisfactorily, but the reticence
of the officials tends to show that no
definite understanding was reached.
1t was learned yesterday that there IS
a difference regarding the basis upon
which an advance can be made.
It is no secret that the western roads
have all been asked for an increase OF
20 per cent. but while this Increase
would entail no hardship for some
roads. other companies insist that they
are unable to meet the demand at the
present time. This is where the matter
rests a present. The Rio Grande shop
men asked for a raise of wages sew
eral weeks ago, but the request could
not be granted, and the reasons We're
pointed out to the men,
This satisfied the men for a time,
but did not allay their uneasiness
and another demand was made on
a Basis of 10 per cent This requesl
is now under consideration and the Of
hcials have held back until after the
Chicago meeting. On some of the
southern lines the demands of an in
crease have been refused altogether
Some of the representatives at-the Chr
cago conference, it is. understood, die
not favor an increase of any kind, but
it Is believed that compromise vii
be effected whereby the men viii get
an increase somewhat under that de-
manded.
If an advance is made it will affect
the trainmen as well as the shODmen
The situation is somewhat critical, a:
some of the unconservative minds are
inclined 70 act without that delibera'
ton which always insures the best re
suits. The more conservative men art
apt to appreciate the consequences O.
hasty action, and they do not care t
rush into something they may regre
later.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1903-01-16
GOES TO UNION PACIFIC.
C. F. Resseguie Was Formerly Lo-
Gated in Salt Lake City.

c. F. Resseguie has. been appointed
superintendent of the 6O0-mile division
OF that portion OF the Southern Pacific
system known as the Texas & New
Orleans railroad Mr.. Resseguie is well
known here. He was Tor two years
superintendent of the Illinois division
of the Burlington. In 1887 and 1888
he was superintendent of the Idaho
division OF the Union Pacific. In 1889
he was transferred to the Nebraska
division of the road. with headquarters
at Omaha. From 1883 TO 1891 he was
general manager of the mountain d.
vision of the Union Pacific and sta
toned in this city. Subsequently he
went to the Santa Fe. and was eventu-
ally transferred from Wichita to Chi
cagO.
He made other changes in the course
OF promotion, and in 1900 he became
general superintendent of the Santa Fe
main lines, having jurisdiction between
Albuquerque and Chicago. The line
was subsequently, divided into two di-
visions and Mr.. Resseguie was made
superintendent of the eastern division
Last July he was beheaded, and the
dismissal caused a sensation.