The Savannah morning news., 1903-06-14

Wnere the mum lest griSette knows
how to impart inviduality to her
everyday dress. One-tone costumes,
with perfect matching or skillful con-
trast of colors, is her maxim. Her ex-
ample is now being followed by the
women of every nation. and this sum-
mer brings the stock particularly I'M
der it's sway.
White is the most fashionable color
for the summer stock, although colors
are also used. But in the latter cases
the stock or collar is only intended for
use with particular gown.
A wealth of ilandwork is expended
on the white frocks and collars. Drawn
work, lace applique and insertion and
hand embroidery make them things of
beauty.
In the all white collar and cuff sets
perhaps the simplest are bands of fine
linen hemstitched on all sides. The
inner space is often entirely filled by a
drawn work pattern. Beautiful mod
els are coming from Mexico, and clever
fingers are initiating them in all coun--
tries. These are intended to be worn
over plain stocks and cuffs of the dress
material They are kept in place by
small pins of gold or silver, which come
in sets of three for the purpose. The
less conspicuous the pin the better.
Equally simple linen and lawn col
lars and cuffs have fine pleats for their
| only ornamentation On some the
fine pleats run straight up and down,
on others they run around the collar,
and still again they are arranged d.
agonally. Pleated effects obtain in
the fine lawn Judge" collar. The long
| Judge" stole is finely pleated. Small
white pearl or linen crocheted buttons
make an effective garniture between
the pleats.
These Judge" collars are but a re-
| cent outgrowth of the popular stole
collar In fact, the stole forms the
motif of nearly yall the summer col
lars 1t is modified in shape and null
tiplied indefinitely to such good pur-
pose thai one woman may be possessed
| of an almost innumerable number of
stocks and collars without having a
single duplicate.
The craze for coarse mesh laces,
which has pervaded every other article
of Dress seems powerless in the realm
of neckwear. If. real lace is shaped
into a turnover Or stock, 1t is of the
finer thread varieties. Point de Ven
Use is a Iavorite for the turnovers
Many of the lace stocks are continued
down in tabs and points to give the eff
feet of shallow yoke. This fashion
does away with the neck line. az i'll
prove a boon to the woman wi lie
| short neck.
A stin further development of the
lace collar is the deep round or point
ed yoke collars which are attached
to a standing collar. They give the
long shouldered effect, which must be
attained at all costs. Sometimes they
are woven in one piece of point de
| Venise, guipure or Van Dyck laces.
More often they are handmade from
strips of lace insertion, Joined by fag-
citing or other fancy stitching. A
pretty effect is obtained by using
colored silk for the fagotting or
stitching.
These deep cape collars, whether
they have a standing collar or not,
are useful for turning a decollete
waist into one suitable for street wear,
In which case they are fastened up the
back with fancy pins, or the collar
may only serve its original purpose
of adornment, and then is merely
fastened at the throat in front
French cambria. canvas, lawn and
linen form the foundations of those
collars and cuffs which are in some
color or embroidered in color. Care
must be taken that the color suits the
color scheme of the gown with which
they are to be worn.
An effective hand embroidered coll
lar and cuff set has a belt to match.
! ne Is Oh d nedVy white
linen. The hand embroidery takes
the form of dots. embroidered in a
solid color. The belt has an incon-
spicuous harness buckle of gilt.
| French cambria forms the founda-
ton of an extremely dainty collar and
cuff set. The collars and cuffs are
oddly curved in art nouvean designs
with the edges buttoned-holed in
white. They are finely worked with
| -N,,~ 80 81, u
| colors Other sets are ornamented
with forget-me-nots, violets and but
tercu2s.
For the linen colored gown nothing
is prettier than hand collars and cuffs
of heavy blue or ecru canvas. They
are oddly shaped, and are button-hol-
ed and embroidered in heavy fax
thread. Other dainty ecru eolored COL
| lars and cuffs are of grass linen en-
broidered in white and colors in small
| flower desi-ns.
Real or imitation Bulgarian embroid-
cry is very effective on the canvas col
lars. Coarse thread in bright blues,
reds and green is used. 1t also forms
a striking means of ornamenting the
turnover collars of natural colored
pongee. Silver and gold threads are
also introduced with good effect. A
pongee collar is embroidered with but
| terfiies, whose wings flash all colors
| and geam with silver and gold.
White silk forms the foundation of
many OF the daintiest turnovers. 1t
lends itself readily 10 drawn work.
applique or embroidery. A pretty white
silk cross tie has embroidered sky
spots outlined with black. II has a
fine point de Nenise border and ends.
A white silk turnover which extends
| in a long tab down the front is EN-
| broidered in a spray design OF vista
ria In natural colors. Others have clus-
ters of fruit-cherries, grapes or straw
| berries.