New-York tribune., 1903-03-14

The temperature is IS degrees in the shade
However, We close down our venetians. shut our
windows and determine to IT through Il Lnste Ist
ters to be written We can keep our room wh,cn sa
is is m ase SnG ssy oe9 three days rtfu secuson
is not unpleasant interlude. , aIso
passed but it has swept the last Of the visitors
from ca5S It tb4a seems o aG Sas ben
to meet everywhere: but the weather is dehc&ious, &
cool fresh ana all that oiId cond he yery pleasing
Camping OUT sounds quite seasona oe, ana Fl
aWayGa journey OF three days across the desert
tSe4e @qd Is Tsafn lake Il ed ned sTRt ri Kurn
miles long, and whispers reach US that there are
fish. and big fish too. in that LAKE -, o,,- minds
go. and all tie pTeminaries being arrangea
drive out Mena House. and after oreahIas'Ae
A ioyous little cavalcade We are: four camels
laden with ou, tents and provisions. good
'cookees-man and Waterman" as our dragornaan
tn10FnS na9ee etc. dromedary and two donkeys
take for our own riding as changes are "He
dromedary quite the fitting mount for the desert
oughly appreciate it. for sometimes tired nature
PRIESTS and Tx The ehanSe a genred on % bike IS not an
It is just 3 on a beautiful April morning when I
winding up the little white road. We pass tie Eleai
pyramids, and along to the Sphinx: and here m
desS We must stop for a moment to look once
more at that calm MYSTERIOUS preseTSe aC 1rackIes
wastes visionless gaze and ever gaze WIN WIN
hat inSCTItaDle expression nONtllHS Ot4 -
ttlated mouth Mystery and eternity ate the two
spontaneous ideas that rush TO our Inlu w a. !.
Of ofe old tried to express Does questonng spirit
ever hE.ng N ] IhiS hGEe ,iII unread and the Sphinx
cay aasvsers cenn not t"e iio'-''
BTt this mental mirage is soon shattered by the
nasal .Go6dhv sphinx addressed TO it by our
dPagonan, VINO has evidently been thinking our W
a Pa the 1t s m sF Of the time could allow
and SO we bend on heading Iof for lunch and
after two hours ride over sand under pa oiazlns ing
sun the N meal h IS dsseyt and here palms and some
shady plantan trees make an idea! haitInR f PIC e
Kwas Ketir tvery good: but somehow h IN these use
ina zine regiments Of bacilIi like spectres at
feast haunting even the most innocent VoG ~ Gnas
in stone trough, above the grave of holy man
What t these holy mems graves never aG,
curaeiy discover; but they are very r 9ofted
dnn dnS in aI sorts Of solitary hooks and corners
they always the same shape.Sa ~ atliT yo "a
stand inside-in this case there is only room ioi
AfteF rest Of two hours or more resume our
ride skirtng still the desert for ntCe lol-ses'
passing someIeS ,In1eb a1aint mud built Arab vii
lagos crossing from time to tIne It aI for the
nfg5t At saccara the tents had been sent 1T on be-
fore and now we find them pltcneo anu OH
'o Us had sailed in the morning TttR 1eR
and unknown existence Of saying ,5s,a gooGas %as
for few days to cyzafi9n pity for
yes even tns SSfn we Contemplated what we believed
Wei here we are in sight of the camp our & nome ne
for the next fortnight: what will tnat nom Sare
at the door Of the dining one stands the SalsyL t
man man most picfuresque yellow silk robe. girdled
around his waist Our men have seen Us I'm In US
dnd most welcome afternoon tea ready @ for u GS
such g0G 0G sbone s f 5 oong EuG silver coffee pot Hunt
ley Pamers biscuits Bsache 5osss Pes iabecotn
AND And we had thought to leave civilization oennu
US Thsn a5aTTa[d c m 5fe5e Comfort # Gut there either The
tent IS lined with dark blue cloth 1antastGdy I cut
ot in patterns which thick Persian rpsS as
carpets, give it very cosey dooK r3rtains not
to speak of every washing necssSty; even Ioao 70
bath two large rs new 5pGHgfs nn1 Ali
has mind think Of everythng ana d oT S0us sur r
prise is reached when we have our ainIei1 nd going
5ronB EnnpEB syara %n c0ursas finishing with caramel
pudding cheese dessert ana coHee. no5 - i 0i,e6
Il is wonderful surprise to US our hrsf 81 ny
6lPpTs 6lbaTs edaiI GOOD but it is even Of sur
prise when We see the cooking aD2aTg r22aT'Ia toye
feet BY l. or ths-eabouts set up in the sand ,a az
moments notce-and yet Waaf rare cffes? g43I What
succulent ste*s; and he never once S1 Sta TennE -
our dinner being over sit at the door OF our
and smoke the pipe OF PeaGf e Uui for " talk
and soon ali the troupe come and slt around st IN
ofhsctFSif of us e5 ~i Weird and fu these Ple
irreSCrIa F,ast-n people. We give them cigarettes
All round which pIeases them very much, and
afterward they sing 70 US, and dance LOT a1ody u9
curious mOuOtOnOuS WalIng: Win, Hti!e Hie4IaS'
the singing seems TO be- ana tne aaHGts I iTe ~ and
barous in the extreme but tnes arr corres 4 i their
grave Oriental manners -. - hon, r,a
sleep with the lovely dry desert air 4ulllhs Us ~
happy dreams -, Ill I,-. NO
spend entirely in desert. the outlying paTIs o.
that huge desert OF SahGra-IOnely ana "lld M
when first start, We see Solne oiIi.-
distance running along the SIDES Of tne sau t3, 80
but they seem only anxious 70 run @ amay A bor5e ~
proximity though when they are hungry heros u
Them will attack animals as later on the ldlIsLsC
remains camel testified We constantly ca IiIg
across skeletons and bones OF st 49,
CanleIs our guide tells they all We're thdt nd
died most probably from want or proper IooI'
but they add great ar OF oeSoldIoh u 'ho "
ready desolate landscape .s, o-
For all its loneliness there IS a WonueFIu W a.. a.
traction IN The desert %nlcn @ n P9 only from the
pre pt auu Ils 80 in the hustle of ordinary life
from The yastness ore is surrounded with ! know
not But BY degrees there steals over one 1eeIiHs
her Perhaps it may be that one is closer to
nature, and she gives OF her yltahty IFeeLy, Pc
haps any vast sot ID IKE Inlqoceah al OF he nat
top. might equally AFFECT one TOT IL ma 80
compIexitv does not make happiness, that pre-
disposition atavism hes dornlanI IN mos irnnis E
means rest and health of body and nlnq. w hdt- @
ever it is know not 3ut M ms sur .ba | once felt II
some potent spell 10 chdfA1' AM ti4o' oAAoo ~
cannot be forgotten -, .z z,-
Ne covered about thirty miles that second day,
finally crossing the low Libyan hills and camping
looked as II law in the haze OF the distance We
had seen so many IiTgsS IN IN b ve9 We now looked
st was IA 4 or fiction; but Mohammed assured Us II
was indeed promised land. $500 L,.,r. -.
Tamieh <or luncheon. also to stock up Win chcA
ems. vegetables and frut We pfOcetbtI +be1a ~ aboIt