Evening star., 1903-07-22
FROM ACROSS THE SEA
SEASONABLE HINTS ON MEMS
WEAR FROM LONDON,
Mems Cabinets a Long-Felt Want
Suggestions on Hats and Points on
Pajamas-The Double Collar,


London Correspondence the Haberdasher
curious result Of the craze for wearing
all sorts of coats and Jackets unbuttoned
| has been that the morning coat has come
greatly into fashion again-to be worn but
toned up! it is not very difficult to de-
tect the cause Of this. While the morn
| Ing coat was comparatively out of fash
| Ion. jackets and frock coats were worn
open. The morning coat, being in the back
ground of the mode. did not take on this
popularity. and now that men are getting
tired of unbuttoned coats, they turn to the
morning coat because 1t has more recently
been worn closed than the other sorts. The
revival has introduced several modihca-
tons, and there is more than one style OF
morning coat in use. The first which Is
only mentioned here in order to be con-
demned, has roll collar and is fastened
with a single button, low down. a double
breasted fancy waistcoat being freely re-
Vealed. The effect thus produced will be
obvious. even if this coat has not been
seen in America. and it cannot be called
pleasing These coats are braided at the
edge, IN order to increase the vulgar raf-
nshness of their appearance 1 suppose.
But the more usual style of morning coat
is plain. unbraided and of far more con-
Ventlonal correctness. The material is a
rich black cheviot, slightly rough on the
face. and the tails which reach to the
middle of the knee. roomy. but cut
well back. The forward fronted tails
which last year made the morning coat ap-
proXimate SO closely to the frock coat are
obsolete in all morning coats. There Is
no outside breast pocket. and the number
of buttons is invaria bly, three. The cut at
the neck is moderately high high enough
to conceal the waiStcoat, which shows
however at the waist. Business men often
wear while pique slip, buttoned inside the
waistcoat opening, when the waistcoat
matches the coat; but it is smarter to wear
the new fancy waiStcOat.
A New Thing.
This is quite new thing. at the moment.
1t is single-breasted. and made of black
and white cloth. either check or a black
ground crossed by white lines in both di-
recuons with right-angled intersections
NO spot patterns are worn, and the whole
tone of this waiStcoat is decidedly quiet.
1t Is fairly high in the neck, and either a
knot of one color, with full apron, can be
worn with 1t, Or what is really more
fashionable, spot-patterned ascot. When
the morning coat as now often happens. Is
worn for excessively smart use, white
suede gloves with broad black silk seams
are often worn with it, fashion which
cannot be wholly commended. White
gloves. except in the evening, have always
an effeminate look, and the black points
enhance this.
Nevertheless. heavy, white dogskin gloves,
with plain points. are being used for driv-
ing four in hand, sufficiently masculine
accomplishment. l have a note on a new
driving glove, which will be found else
where.
waistcoat found favor. that it is actually
worn with Jacket suits, even when the lat
ter are of blue serge and the effect is de-
cidedy smart Where a fancy waistcoat
i- Ix,1,, - o.
shirt, still decidedly fashionable as an ad-
junct to the double collar and lounge suit
gives way to ordinary stiff bosomed
white linen one.
Black Derby In.
The popularity of the homespun over
coat this spring has had the effect of bring
ing the black derby hat (here called
"bowler'D into vogue again. 1t would OBJ
viously not answer to wear tall silk hat
with g. homespun coat, and the soft alpine
looks scarcely less unsightly in the same
connection. Consequently, the bowler to
continue the use of the English word, was
practically the only thing left. A new
shape has been invented, and is "all the
GO 5ust now though 1T IS not likely to
prove permanent. The crown is low and
snug fairly round on top. and enriched by
very narrow riband. The brims are also
very narrow, but they are very curly, and
the whole effect is OF extreme small
men except those of a lean and lantern
jawed countenance. In fact, one but
jockey really looks we'll in the new
bowler.
Meanwhile the silk hat with a round edge
to the brin seems to have rather gone out.
During the early spring season all tall hats
of any fashionable pretense had the round
edge. Now, l find just many with the
usual fiat top to it. though there is a de-
cided tendency to make that top narrower
than aforetime. The height of the crowns
in silk hats has not undergone any change.
but they are made with a greater amount
of bell in them. and the consequence is
that they look lower. and have actually
been described lower by some writer's.
AS l previously predicted, Panama hats
are not nearly SO universal for outdoor
wear as they were last summer The 50
Panama" which witty writer has sad
died for all times with the sobriquet
"shamama," has dscredited the real thing
But there is consolation in the fact that
ladies are taking to Panamas this year,
just when men are abandoning them in IA
of the old straw boater. In this con-
nection, as many ladies buy their Pana-
mas at mems outiitterS. hint may be
useful The female of the species is un-
able to retain hat of any sort without
the assistance of long steel pins Now a
$50 Panama, and the real ones. of course.
run to all that and far above it. is much
too precious a thing to be stabbed by any
such barbaric piercings: and, when Pana-
mas sold to ladies', they should be eye
letted in many places the wearer may
prescribe. SO that they may be safely kept
on the fair head that is to wear them, and
yet not sustain disdgurng damage.
A Useful Cabinet
useful contraption has been introduced
to the mems outlitting trade by a retailer
Of this city. 1t is a little mahogany cabi-
net costing about SIS. and intended to hold
cravats, gloves. handkerchiefs shirts and
stands. that the thing has much prac-
teal value as 1t might easily have. A chest
Of drawers, properly used, would be just
as convenient. But the idea is capable of
development In Mr.. Keiscrs beautiful lit
tie illustrated book the cravate.
which the famous originator of the ba-
rathea weave was good enough to send
me some months ago. there is a picture of
cravat-rack. which gets far away from
any sort of drawer for keeping cravats in
and freeing them from creaSeS while you
sleep" l do not see why cabinet, having
a section devoted to three or four of these
racks, shelf or two for shirts of different
kinds, some smaller drawers for gloves
handkerchiefs, trinkets, collars and place
to stand a trOuSer press in, the whole in