Evening star., 1903-07-14
Table and Kitchen.
Frozen Preparations for the Dessert
Course.

The production Of these confections has
| of late years become greatly extended In
variety and kinds and no longer re-
garded as desserts. belonging to a class
which are reserved for certain festive occa-
sions, where ordinary fare is deemed too
commonplace
The first ices-froZen sweet fruit juices
and similar delicate and tempting prepa-
| rations-appeared in that city of dainty
culinary concets-gay Paree-towards the
year 1860. though truth to tell 1t was a
Florentine and not French artist who
introduced them to the subjects of Louis
XIV.
Since then the list has steadily increased
notwithstanding the attempt on the part
of authorities on matters hygienic to dis
courage and discontinue their use.
In warm weather they are sought with
the idea that they act as refrigerating
agents to cool the body. With this de-
sire in view care and common sense must
be exercised in selecting such preparations
will prove most refreshing and at same
time least Onerous to the stomach. The
fruit juices sweetened and frozen to the
half thaw'' state and of the nature of
water ices, are the cheapest forms and
those least likely to cause gastric derange-
ments Next to these the custard creams,
made mainly of milk. eggs and little
cornstarch. are wholesome and easy to di-
gest, being freer from fatty matter than
the cream ices and quite as cooling to
the tongue. stomach and body; fulfilling
their mission refreshment and not over
substantially nutritious when served with
other foods.
The list of frozen desserts known to the
professional are legion. and there are
many which can be frequently served
and quite easily made at home without
much labor expense being involved.
and they are far more acceptable than
any other dessert that can be offered In
hot weather.
bo do nv frpe and
stirring we have the Philadelphia, purely
American product. and considered the finest
of this class of creams. 1t is made in two
ways. but always of the richest milk and
cream, whole cream making 1t too rich.
Made up with raw cream it will give
much greater bulk, and while the cream is
of light, delicate texture 1t Is harsh in
taste. On the other hand, If quality ra ther
than quantity is desired, the milk portion
at least should be cooked with the sugar in
double boiler to scalding point This
gives Il tine-grained. smooth. velvety cream
that mOldS and cuts perfectly. Gelatine is
sometimes added to the uncOoked cream to
| give this smoothness. but the result is not
| the same and gelatine must be used with
extreme caution, or else 1T Is unpleas sanity
| noticeable to dainty eaters. These ice
creams derive their particular names from
| the kind of favoring used.
The creams-Or ices, they are termed
| best known abroad are the Neapolitan and
| French cream Ices, made up of cream or
rich milk. eggs and sugar syrup like a
| boiled cuStard. and favored with vanilla,
| caramel coffee, chocolate. cocoa and can
| died fruits and nuts sometimes added.
French creams are really boiled custards,
| and are more economical than the NeapoIi-
| tan ices as cOrnStarch arroWroOt is
| added and fewer eggs.
Belonging to this group Of cream Ices are
| the parfaits, mouSSeS and biscuit glaceS.
| These are frozen without stirring, and con-
| tain whipped cream, and made with or
| without whipped white of egg. They are
dainty and delicious and often nodded
| with some one of the fruit ices, usually
| Sherbet.
Biscuit glaces are. rule nodded in
| individual cases and served with mer-
| ingue. They are rather more troublesome
| to make than other ices, and require Ger
| tain kinds of mods, representing fruits and
| flowers. an ice cave for packing and freez-
| ing very solid, and considerable time for
| this process.
| The group known as water ices comprise
SherbetS. grantees, frappeS and punch, the
| latter not much used as formerly.
The sherbets may be made of one or
| more kinds OF fruit juice. juice of one
| kind of fruit and fine pulp of another kind
| The finest sherbets have no water added
| being simply fresh fruit juice sweetened
| and frozen. Smooth, rather solid sherbets
| are made by using a sugar syrup with
| the fruit juice and small quantity of
| gclatine, finishing with an Italian meringue
| when sherbet is frozen.
The frappe Is a half frozen sherbet. a
| combination of water, fruit juice and Su-
| gar The materials being uncooked gives
| an ice of rather coarse granular texture.
| These ices must be quickly served, they
| soon melt.
| Punches are water ices or sherbets with
| liquor added either before or after they are
| frozen, and they are frequently finished
with a meringue.