The daily journal. (Salem, Or.) 1899-1903, 1903-09-04
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NEW YORK;
FASHION
. LETTER
New Makes and Ma
terialS for Autumn
Dresses
Fancy New Mixtures For
Chic Walking Costumes
Shorter Skirts Grow
ing in Favor

Maline and Tullc are in great. de
mand for botwenn-seaSon hats. Prince
OF Wales tips are returning to favor.
despite the popularity of the long
graceful plumes and will be combined
with flights Of birds on many smart
bats. Thoy are shown to advantage
on q pretty new shaped hat which has
a crown resembling that of the sailor.
but whose brim rolls upward at the
sides. The feathers are arranged in
pom-pon effect and placed at the left
side OF the crown and under the brim
are massed against the hair with
loops OF velvet ribbon. The tips in
most instances are the same hue as
the material used for the hat.
Some OF the prettlest tints of win
ter will be those that are dificult to
wear, petunia and fuchsia, for in
stance. The decided blonde. alike
with the pronounced brunette has diff.
ficulty in asslmilatlng them and they
seem to be plumed especially for the
accommodation OF the neutraltonod
woman.
Unfortunately the mallne and tulle
hats are expensive, for the delicate
materials are massed IN innumerable
little quillings and shirred many
yards being required for the simplest
hat.
A brown maline toque, made over a
stiff, box-like shape, is n mass Of fin'
shirrings, exquisitely fashioned. The
only decoration is a made feather OF
nament placed on the left brim. The
feathers are brown, touched with gold.
and are gathered fan-wise into a quill
handle.
Some less expensive, but quite as
natty TO wear with an autumn tailor
made gown Is a perky little tricorne
In dark purple velvet. with knots OF
flowers and bows OF rather stiff rit
bon velvet.
There is no prospect that the ap.
proach OF cold weather will mean the
retirement OF pongee gowns. for these
will be extremely popular for house
and evening wear. A delightful
French model is made OF the most
delicate Dresden blue pongee. The
skirt Is laid In many tucks and has
a rather narrow front breadth that.
In turn. is trimmed with groups OF
fine tueks encircling the lower edge.
The bodice is blouse effect with
three narrow box plaits embroidered
from the ton down and the front edge
is trimmed with white lace with van.
dyked band OF white Peau de Sole EN-.
broidered at the edges and crossed
with knotted ribbons drawn through
openings. The sleeves
are box plated. bordered
with two groups OF tucks and knotte,
ribbon ends opening over bishop cuffs
OF the Dresden bleux pongee
A big blue hat that falls over the
face a trine In front turning up at the
side with a long blue ostrich feather
going oy.r IL. completes the costume.
A white chiffon veil Is draped over
the hat and turned back to be caught
under turquoise pins.
Dresden bleu promises TO he one OF
the fashionable shades fir indoor wear
and is exceedingly pretty in the new
crepe cloth IL combines well with
the prevailing laces and embroideries
and is one OF the few tints that will
be used with black combinations. Nc
color is more effective in the soft lus-
trous silks for belts. flowers and
stocks.
A serviceable novelty is the sleeve
made TO wear with
Doeketless gowns, IL has been the fad
for two OF three seasons past 10 tuck
The handkerchiefs up the sleeves. but
not until now has there been a partic-
llar sleeve handkerchief. This is
made OF nest linen; II is about eight |
inches square and finished with a tiny |
sdging OF Valenciennes lace. In the
expensive handkerchiefs. the design
lf the lace is outlined In finest silk |
eolored threads. The shade, however, |
must be very delicate.
MAUDE GRIFFIN.