Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-03-21
FANCY FROCKS BLOOM
Fair Fingers Busy Now With
Embroidery.
WHITE SHIRT WAISTS
SLEEVES ARE PUFFED AND
STOCKS UNLINED.
Correct Lines for the New Tailored
Gowns - Turnover
Collars.
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.

Special Correspondence Of The Evening Star.
NEW YORK, March 10. 1903.
The demand for shirt waists is greater
than ever, and, since the requirements OF
fashion call for more dressiness in this d.
rection, some of the models are marvels Of
handwork
The strictly plain shirt waist Of previous
seasons is something scarcely to be found.
When 1t Is encountered it has old-fash-
Toned air when compared to its more elab-
crate sisters. Even the cheviot waists are
lace and embroidery trimmed, and every
where. If they hope to shine In the chic
world, they must show the most careful
finish.
It is not sufficient that the wash waist
displays elaborate trimmings and a new
cut. Fine hand sewing must accomplish it.
the stuff be shrunk before making. and the
heavy embroideries stand out with a tell
ing beauty.
Soft finished stuffs, such as cheviots,
pongees and coarsely woven linens, are the
textures most employed for these dashing
waists, and spotless white is still perferred
to color. Into the linens the rough antique
la ces, now so much admired, are inserted,
forming many sorts Of novel yokes, stocks
and cuffs. Bias border edges of the linen,
between rows Of fagoting, join the laces
neatly to the shirt stuff, and every art Is
employed to create unique effects.
The heavy butcher linens are truly superb
with the raised embroderies used on them.
The needlework is done in coarse threads
and invariably in the same color.
There are linen waists with contrasting
embroideries, but these are not styles ap-
proved by the modsh world.
On the other hand, the bodice which lays
no claim to washing virtues may indulge in
many freaks of color, and include several
varieties of trimming in its decorations. No
garment fills so many requirements as the
| Lol; D,,I fNr ante of
1t Is invaluable. Three with single skirt
will accomplish many changes of cos
tune and the toilet be made to express
something either elaborate or simple.
A Bunch of Three.
A trio of smart bodices lately turhed out
display charming possibilities for variation
of costume. Made for house, visiting and
| lecture wear, all combine novel effects with
the latest materials.
Perhaps the prettiest Of the three is of
| ivory wool crash and is for informal din
| ner wear. The model, which fastens at the
back, is very loose in effect, the bodice
| portion and pulled sleeves hanging in full
gathers A deep pointed yoke, with stitched
bands of the crash, severely covers the
shoulders, close sleeve caps increasing the
dropping look. The high stock is unlined
| and is in alternate bands of the crash and
| fagoting, the latter of which is made of
| ivory satin bebe ribbon. The deep founces
| OF the sleeves are diSO SuSeu Will tiiio-
| White cloth is the material of the second
| bodice The blouse, fantastically cut out
at the neck, hangs loose over yoke, deep
! est at the front, and incrusted with Cluny
| lace in an ivory tint. Suspender bands of
black taffeta five inches in width likewise
| show odd insertions of this rich lace, and
| two square pieces widen them at the Shout
| ders with an epaulette effect. The sleeves,
puffed into narrow cuff bands, are of the
| plain cloth.
Black velvet, with trimmings of white silk
| embroidered with yellow, are the materials
of the third waist, whose fastening is un-
der the left arm. The worked silk forms a
narrow shoulder collar, which, running
| down each side of the stock, finished with
narrow bands that button it to the bodice.
The sleeves show the close upper portion
which distinguishes all arm coverings at
present. The puffs of the lower part, be-
| ginning just above the elbow, are gathered
| into pointed cuffs of the embroidered silk,
which also composes the stock.
Variety in Sleeves.
A book might be written on the charms
and complications of the fashionable sleeve
alone. No two are alike. If one seems
| lovely the next one appears more so. One
| point is insisted upon, and that is that they
all lie as fatty as possible at the top. For
! the rest. the bottoms may bulge in trans
| parent puffs, which seem monstrously big
| by comparison with this close section, or
| they may flow loosely or simply simulate
| these effects with some clever device.
The modish collar band Is also thing
| of many fancies, with the absolute require
| ment alone that 1t fit the throat very
| tightly. To facilitate this snugness few
| stocks are now lined, and the bishop stoles
| of their little turnovers are narrower and
longer than ever.
The numerous changes for neatness re-
quired by such styles dishearten the wo-
| man of modest means, for these little col
lars In linen cost anywhere from SO cents
to So apiece. Those of embroidered batiste
or lace are even dearer, though moderate
skill with the needle can fashion the lace
sort at home. The fad inspires dainty sm-
ployment for idle fingers, and when one
stops to consider how much is gained by
pretty and stylish details 1t seems sur
prising that more of US do not take to the
gerltle art of stitchery.
White is Informal.
The gowns which smart women are wear
ing at this moment display, in many cases,
delicate sentiment for the holiness of
the season. For the Informal dinners which