davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1903-12-28

shoulders in full flutes. crosses at the
waist line in front and is carried round
to the back, where it terminates in a
basque or plated ends.
Women nowadays must do" every
thing and be seen everywhere, as not
to be seen means social extinction for
the time being. In society's motor car
race to be left behind is to be forgotten.
All this being and doing necessi-
tates lot of clothes for different func-
TONS and the blouse. especially the
worn with a dainty Grape or net skirt
is a costume change which may be rung
! with less expense than the ensemble
| toilet
The Place de Madeline is the environ
ment from which springs the dainty
blouse, and the following are a few of
| the creations emanating from coutu-
rieres in this quarter:
A lovely separate blouse of cham
payne cloth has bolero edged with a
soft colored galloon on mousseline de
sole. A tiny military vest is formed of
| black braid and gold buttons. Over a
| galloon trimmed, round cloth shoulder
collar is a smaller collar of white linon
de sole outlined with a narrow plait-
! ing of the same. This 1inon also makes
= the full underblouse and puffs which
| hang from under the kimono sleeve,
also wristbands and ruff1es.
! A delightful dinner corsage is of gren-
adine de sole of the Bengal rose shade.
This bodice is plated from neck to
waist line. A piece of old Venice lace
outlines the bust, makes the epaulets
| on the long shoulders and fashions the
high standing collar, cuffs and sleeve
| bands. A cocarde of black velvet with
| gold tasseled ends and a gold belt buc-
killed. give the Partisan touch of black.
Simple and. chic is a bodice of tan
peau de sole having shawl shaped
drapery of the silk edged with fringe
| and bands of brown velvet The neck
empiecement and cuffs are of guipure.
The American girl could not live
without her tub waist, but the Pari-
sian mondaine scorns the hygienic wash
| waist and clings to the froufrou affairs
just described.
| Marcel-PrevOst's sincere and earnest
appeal for a return to the comfort and
grace of the Greek costume is 1 fear
meeting with scant courtesy here in
Paris. There are no signs that the
great ateliers are treating the matter
seriously Indeed, they have threaten
ed US with a revival of the crinoline
The women of today have too highly
developed a sense OF the ridiculous tc
accept a semblance of the hoopskirt
from even the highest sartorial oracle
The creators of modes are perhaps re
taliating by giving US the present ex
ceptionally full skirts. Let US be thank
full for the compromise.
CATHERINE TALBOT.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1903-12-28

the moment are very much sought aft
er, would, with their glossy leaves,
form a tasteful decoration if handled
by an artist. For the lay designer
scheme wrought out with red and
white carnations would be safer and
easier to arrange. Dresden china Gu
pids adorn the center of the table and
place cards are painted with winged
loves. The ices are in the shape of
hearts pierced with silver arrows. The
arrows are given to the guests on leav-
ing as mementos of the occasion. An
affair of this kind is especially suitable
for a ST. Valentine luncheon or one
given to announce an engagement.
Afternoon tea has become almost as
much of a daily function in America as
it is in England but we may still learn
a number of wrinkles from our cousins
across the water. When giving a tea
to more than three or four persons a
silver urn is about the best receptacle
from which to serve the beverage. The
tea of course having been previously
prepared in the kitchen, is merely
placed in the urn over the lighted lamp
to keep hot until ready to be handed.
Should an urn be disliked. nothing is
smarter than a samovar in which to
make the cheering beverage at the table.
If woman is sufficiently fortunate to
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1903-12-28
AQA&El2@
|O NMCE@c|
NHEsTNUT CHARTREUsE PUD-

@HESTNUT CHARTREUSE PUD-
a DING.-ShelI, blanch and cook in
~ a cup of cream a sufficient num-
Der of large chestnuts to make a PURGE.
To make the PURGE cook one cup of
sugar and third of a cup OF water
together until it will thread. Put this
mixture through a sieve when hot.
Soften one-quarter of a cup of gelatin
in a fourth of a cup of water and dis
solve in the hot strip; then strain into
the hot chestnut PURGE, heating thor
oughly. Next add one-third of a cup
of candied fruit and a favoring of va
nilla and stir the mixture over ice wa
ter until almost solid. Fold in a cup Of
stiffly beaten cream. Line a mold with
lady fingers, stand in water and pour
in a little Bavarian cream. Then put
in the chestnut mixture and on top
more of the Bavarian cream. Stand In
a cold place until well set. Serve sur
rounded with whipped cream.
Almond and Bread Pudding-Blanch
and pound three ounces of sweet and
six ounces of bitter almonds and allow
them to simmer gently in half a pint of
milk for a quarter of an hour. Then
pour them over four ounces of mod
erately stale crusts of bread. Stir in
one-quarter pound of beef suet finely
chopped, two tablespoonfuls of moist
sugar, the same of -four, the finely
minced rind and the juice of a lemon
and two well beaten eggs. Beat the
mixture thoroughly and pour it into a
well oiled mold. Let it boil for three
hours and serve with sweet sauce
This will be sufficient for four or five
persons.
Banana Pudding.-To one quart OF
scalded milk add the well beaten yolks
of three eggs. a tablespoonful of corn
starch and sugar to taste and boil all to
a smooth thick cream. Lay three
thinly sliced and peeled bananas in q
pie dish and pour the cream over them.
Make a meringue with the stiffiy whip
ped egg whites a little sugar and some
grated lemon rind. Pile this over the
cream and bake in moderate oven till
nicely Drowned. Serve cold.
Apple Cream Pudding.-Bake four
large apples. take away the cores and
skins. put the pulp in a basin, add
lemon juice, sugar, grated nutmeg and
powdered ginger to taste; whip till it
is smooth and soft, add the yolk of an
egg and whip again. Beat the white
of an egg separately till stiff. then add
it and whip all again till very light.
Pile in a glass dish and serve.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1903-12-28
The Passing of the "Tiger.,

Americans home after the London
season report that the dear little tiger
who used to sit up aloft behind or be-
fore the smart London woman's car
riage has been deposed by one smarter
and more supercilious than he. In his
tight buckskins, with his arms mag
nificently folded over his bebuttoned
chest, the tiger was an amusing. i'm
posing little figure. But it has become
the ambition of every fashionable wo-
man in London to own two or three cleo
tric carriages, or at any rate an auto
mobile brougham and a road automo-
bile; so she has replaced her tiger with
a motor footman." This new breed Of
domestic hireling is garbed in blue,
with silver buttons, a white navy cap
and button boots. He chiefly resem-
bles an officer of the German army, his
coat being cut and piped with red to
initiate exactly that functionary. The
motor footman" is said to exceed in
condescension even the dethroned tiger.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1903-12-28

moment at the gay capital The
fact is made evident in the ap-
pearance of the bustling streets. the
opening of the theaters and the general
animation seen in the shopping quar-
tiers frequented by mondaines.
Take peep into the tea rooms at the
Ritz hotel any afternoon between the
hours of and 6, and you will see a dis
tinguished crowd of gayly dressed wo-
men who have just returned to town.
They will probably be discussing the
latest scandal or the success of the new
models in fashion shown by the great
dressnakers, whose salons are near by
in the Place Vendome.
The fact that life in the country is
infinitely more pleasurable in October
than July counts for nothing. The So
cial calendar whose laws are like those
of the Modes and observation-disclosures
ble-registers the last of October as
the date for the villegiature's termina-
ton Society bows to the decree, and
as that propitious season has arrived
Paris has once more come into her own
lie Grand Prix d'Autumn Is the first
function which brings out the smart
sporting set, announces socially that
the Parisienne has returned to her be-
loved city and that the season, with its
pleasures and fetes, is on. The femi-
nine world on the race day set out for
Longchamps in all its bravery of new
autumn attire. During the drive
through the woods long coats and rain
garments came into requisition, as the
elements made up their minds to be
sporty. But by the time the track was
reached the sun shone out brilliantly,
lighting up the autumnal foliage sur
rounding the course. The costumes of
the women toned in with the gown ma
ture had donned, and beautiful Long
champs was a symphony in color and
dream of fair women. In the Jockey
clubs tribune reserved for the fair sex
the display of toilets was positively re-
gal being composed for the greater
part of velvet supline in various tones
of fuchsia, bordeaux, golden brown and
green.
The hats were very elegant, covered
with great plumes and draped with
mousseline de sole. The new feathers
worn on the hats at the races were of
the shaded ostrich variety, so magnifi-
cent in proportion both in length and
breadth that they are quite as much
property" as were the silk gowns of
our grandmothers. These fascinating
feathers are comparatively cheap in
Paris-about half the price you pay for
them in America. The woman who rev.
els in a bargain will commission a
friend stopping here to bring her home
at least a feather or two.
Another sign of the sartorial times
was brought out at this race event in
the artistic touches of gold and silver
daintily used on the new hats and
frocks. THIS revived Partisan mode is
introduced with such good effect that
no fault can be found on the score of
garishness. The gold is of dull shade,
and its value on a costume is like the
chiaroscuro effect in a painting. An
idea of the charming manner in which
this gold galloon disports itself may be
gathered from the description of tot
let worn by well known sportswoman.
The material of this creation was Ha-
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1903-12-28

with a profusion of dull, fat gold but
tons and opens over a lingerie chemi-
settle caught into a wide taffeta band
fastened with a large gold buckle. The
sleeve on the strictly tailored coat is
smaller than it has been for some time;
indeed, a little fullness beneath the
turned back cuff is all there is to be
seen A cachet is given the bolero by
adding a double f1ounce of plated lace
under the cuff. This adornment makes
the hand look very dainty and attrac-
tive.
Mouse gray velvet is finding favor
for the trottier gown and this color.
together with wood tans, is a dominant
note in the color scheme of the season.
stronger colors rather than to the unde-
cided pastel tints, royal blue and pur-
pie, a lovely shade of cerise and bottle
green being to the fore. We will not
perhaps give out heart whole admiration
to these brighter tones at once, as the
soft, neutral tints were so alluringly be-
coming
Fashions bark back to the sixties and
the days of the second empire as well
as to the all important 1880 period. The
circular bands, ruchings and tucks
which are now the chief form of skirt
trimming belong to the sixties. Illus
trative of the happy effects of circular
trimming is a costume of soft, heavy
black taffeta which is one of the leading
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1903-12-28

also employing a remarkable sleeve
which begins at the elbow and consists
of volants of some airy fabric. Point
de venise is in great vogue for the ball
toilet, and needless to say that the
price of a venise lace robe makes it
prohibitive except to the favored few.
The majority of US are doubtless
more interested in the practical and in
dispensable street dress. The agitating
question which has been tormenting the
woman who insists upon being CONNIE
il faut at all times has been the skirt
length. An edict from high authority
has gone forth that the trottier skirt or
the one reaching to the ankle is to be
worn for walking and morning frocks.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1903-12-28
? UNCHEONs. bridge whist pa

~ UNCHEONS, bridge whist par
ties and teas will continue to be
the faVorite forms of afternoon
- entertainment in the feminine
world during the coming win
ter. There is something about the
luncheon party that appeals more near
" to woman than any other social
function. No matter how deliberately
formal this affair may be in service
and decoration, there is generally an in
formality in the conversation, the table
talk being of the chatty, chummy sort
dear to woman's heart. The lunch
con bears little resemblance to the din
ner party, which is too often a solemn
sacrifice performed in state.
Nontaigne, I believe. says a man
does not regard what he eats so much
as with whom he eats. A woman, on
the other hand. does not care so much
about what she eats as she does about
the manner in which it is served. Fla
mingo from Sweden, game from Africa
and pears from Assyria'' are not nee
essary. but a novel and beautiful table
decoration is an essential the modern
hostess deems all important.
Tablecloths have gone out of favor
for luncheon and tea tables. The board
is now set in shining innocence of white
drapery, and the exquisitely fine linen
and lace centerpieces and doilies reign
in its stead.
There is a perfect craze now for Ca
nary island table lace and the exclu-
sive woman VINO entertains will have
no other on her smart luncheon board.
In design the Canary lace resembles
Mexican drawn work and is fashioned
from a heavy, though pearly, weave of
linen. The popularity which gives the
pattern distinction is found in the to-
tai lack of relation between the central
composition and the border design. The
scarcity of this lace has been held re-
sponsible for the present fad. although
il is sufficiently beautiful to be its own
excuse for being. This lace is prac-
ticslly indestructible, and when it's
graceful mission of adding beauty to
the table is ended there are many other
uses to which the pieces may be put.
II the real amphitryon is the amphi-
tryon who gives dinners, the really
smart woman will be the one who gives
q shirt waist luncheon to her partic-
rIar pals this winter. There is moth
ing radically different about the spread
itself except in ths matter of ices and
fagore which should be in the form OF
tennis racz=rs, golf sticks. riding crops
or caps The hostess and all her guests
don their most stunning shirt waists
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1903-12-28

coat. A large brown velvet hat trim
med with gold braid and mordore
plumes was an effective aid to the chic
ensemble
An enormous white cloth hat of the
Louis style particularly appealed to
me. 1t had a border of dull gold gall
loon outlining the brim and encircling
the crown. Amber tipped white feath-
ers gave that distinctive touch of ele-
gance which is characteristic of the
chapeau de style.
White cloth varying in tone from oys-
ter white to ivory shades will have the
same costume prominence it did last
year and bids fair to be the cloth of
the exclusive. Taupe or moleskin is the
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1903-12-28

and the girl who makes and wears the
most original stock is given a prize for
her industry and originality. This well
fought for trophy may be dainty case
in which to keep the treasure trove
"A feasting presence full of light is
the 'sunburst" luncheon. which is usu-
ally carried out in monochrome effects
In the center of the polished table
rests a, huge bowl of American Beauty
roses. From under the bowl radiate
ribbons reaching to each plate, where
they hold in place the daintily decorat-
ed guest cards. These ribbons are in
tones of pink shading into a sunny vel
low and may be of wide double faced
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1903-12-28

place a card on which is sketched ng-
ure bearing a Tyre. an artist one with
palette, and the pasteboard given a sing
er would probably bear the portrait of a
well known prima donna These cards
prove great aids to conversation, and
when meeting persons for the first time
to find out a mutual fad is very pleas
ant and often leads to an agreeable
friendship.
Cupid luncheons are a new develop
ment in the fashionable world. OF
course invitations to these sentiment
tai functions are only sent to the
unmarried. The table is arranged with
red and white flowers shaped into a
bow and arrow. Gardenias, which at
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1903-12-28

The skirt for afternoon and visiting
gowns must just touch the ground,
while evening toilets will be exceeding
ly long, resting in trailing pillows on
the floor all round.
It requires quite as much practice to
successfully maneuver these gracefully
flowing gowns as it does a piece of field
artillery, and the debutante who trips
the light fantastic toe may enter the
ballroom with the idea of wrecking her
costume.
A favorite material for the walking
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1903-12-28
The Seasons BIouses.

The question of blouses is one which
becomes of paramount Importance at
this time of year, especially to those
who are enterprising and thrifty
enough to make their own. The new
1annels are quite charming. Many of
them have borders and colorings which
are delightful. Nothing prettier or
daintier than those designed for this
autumn has been seen for a long time.
A pale blue ground with a white spot
ted pattern is pretty. The shoulder
pieces, cuffs and front plastron should
be of coarse torchon or cluny lace.
This lace can be bought dyed to match
and will be used on flannel blouses as
effectively as it was on linen ones in
the summer A neat stock collar and
tie and patent leather belt complete an
effect of neatness and smartness COM
bined.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1903-12-28

con or dinner cards. She selects cards
that are daintily illustrated and puts
them beside each place at table, with
the address side bearing the name of
the guest for whom it is intended up
permost. On turning the card the guest
sees disclosed something bearing upon
the place from which he or she comes
or perhaps something illustrative of his
or her particular occupation or fad. A
musician, for instance. may find at her
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1903-12-28

fancies of the autumn. The well de-
fined skirt at the hips flares out to meet
the bouffant lower half trimmed with
graduated rows of velvet ribbon. The
bodice does not haunt the ubiquitous
cape pelerine, but the newer old time
"crossover," which is being revived.
This bodice trimming falls over the
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1903-12-28

A simple and infallibIe remedy for
heartburn is to take half a tumbler Of
cold water into which has been dis
solved half a teaspoonful of bicarbo-
nate of soda Squeeze the juice Of a
small piece of lemon and drink while
effervescing
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1903-12-28

vana brown sable cloth. Over the per-
fectly plain skirt appeared a brown
velvet Louis XVI. Jacket. A neat de-
sign of gold embroidery was just no.
ticeable on the white cloth semivest
peeping from beneath the lapels of the
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1903-12-28

dress is a cheviot in blue and green
plaid so wonderfully woven that the
tartan design is hardly visible.
The skirts of walking gowns are usu-
ally box plated and caught with ma
chine stitching to the knee. where they
flare out in fullness. The bolere which
accompanies these jupes is trimmed
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1903-12-28

trimming par excellence for the white
cloth gown. Fur in sable, chinchilla
and miniver bands many of the smart
est tulle and lace evening frocks.
Worth is glittering his evening toilets
with silver and gold sequins and is
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1903-12-28
Worth KnowfnE.

Ii a child swallowed anything sharp.
like a pin or a needle, do not give a
purgative, but get the child to eat
freely of suet pudding, or anything Of
that nature. which will imbed the OBJ
ject and so prevent it injuring the child
internally.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1903-12-28

When baking potatoes. prick them
deeply with a fork before putting them
in the oven. They will cook better ana
quicker for the pricking.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1903-12-28

possess a genuine antique Russian sam
ovar she is the envy of all her friends.
AS a last resort one may use the tea
kettle suspended over a lamp. and this
is much better than to spend time and
exhaust the patience of guests in fun
bling with tea ball which nine times
in ten won't work satisfactorily.
The O'Clock tea of today is getting
to be a very simple affair. The sand
witches used are made of bread and
butter, and though etimes spread
with pate de foie gras. it is the excep-
ton This simplicity of dietary is large
" owing to the horror the modern So
ciety woman has of growing stout.
When We first began to indulge in this
English fashion of tea drinking sweets
were offered, all kinds of bonbons,
pound cake, ices and other tidbits.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1903-12-28

Velvet, both plain and spotted. will be
used as trimming on almost every cos
tune.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1903-12-28

satin ribbon or narrower widths ar
ranged in shower bow effects. When
the mistress of the mansion attires her
self in gown harmonizing with the col
or scheme the '.sun ray appearance of
the table is charming. A violet lunch
con motif would be exquisite carried
out in orchids and mauve ribbons.
A happy Inspiration which an enter~
prising hostess tired of deadly, dull
routine entertaining, has hit upon is
the use of picture postals for her lunch
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1903-12-28

~ ARTS, Oct. S1.-Reopening. or, as
we say here in Paris, on rentes.
is the popular expression of the
moment at the gay capital. The
f,o+ is r,,o7o o,r;.7a,+ ", tho on