Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1903-05-02

I anchorage having stairs behind, where
all small boats and lighters. receive and
discharge their passengers and cargo.
The stairs are thrOnged with motley
and iostling crowd. mostly ragged loaf
Crs who have no business on hand but
vagrant curiosity. who stare at the Ia
dies and obstruct the landing so that
we have some difficulty In forcing u
Path through their dirty ranks. The
little plaza at the end OF the mole pre-
scnts a strange and busy scene, II be,
ing crowded with wharf bummers and
idle gentlemen IN delapitated sombreroN
and ragged ponchOs. We are aston
ished 20 see great piles OF grain and
other merchandise lying uncovered IN
the open air, until we remember that 1t
never rains here, and there is no more
moisture 20 be feared than that from
the fogs. Here are heaps Of wheat from
Chill, waiting to be carried to the mills
Oh the Rimac-the river from which
Lima took its name there are blocks OF
salt, white ana rose-cOlored, resembling
cnyx, brought from the salt mines near
Huacho gigantic pisces or red clay
Jars. shaped Ike Roman amphorac and
filed with italia" wine from the valley
OF Pisco bales Of chlncona bark from
forests In the far Interior; pyramids of
chancaca, the coarse, unieilned sugar
of the country, wrapped IN dried banana
leaves through which sticky sweetness
oozes, 10 the delectation OF swarms o.
nles and nearby naked children, and
other products del pias mixed confused
~ with familiar looking bags bales ana
boxes from the United states and Eu-
rope
Callao has population of about 30
00O but rs glory as great commercial
shipping center has departed, There
are several modern buildings OF cousld-
cradle architectural pretensIOns sand
wiohed among the mud-plastered canes,
conspicuous among them being the
branch house Of the New York bank
ers. Messrs Grace q Co. and the new
railway station. which is also close 10
the mole The heat Is Intense, vile
smells assail ones ofactores at every
turn and as there Is no drainage ex-
cept such as nature provides In the
natural slope Of the soil 10 seward
and smart shows never fall TO wash
things clean, the place Is proverblally
dirty and unhealthy The poverty OF
Peru since lis first war with Chill and
Tue NNllFfili'ilA hNHl'FTlblA n wv NlhNA'f
as well as the enormous tariffs imposed
by the government and the exorbitant
port duties charged have conspired to
drive commerce away from Cal'ao 10
the corresponding benefit Of Nalraralso,
the port OF Chill A few years ago
when the Peruvian government was IN
dire need of funds and willing 10 sell
anything n could lay hands on for
ah Il 80 laat. Cpttser
II practically sold this harbor Of Cal
lao. TO a French company who leased
its docks and anchorage for q term NJ
years for the sum Of 100000 per an
num- The money was Godsend to
Peru but almost death 10 Calao for
the company has a right 20 tax shin
ping TO any extent, and has established
a system of rates and rules which no
seaman who can help themselves viii
submit TO-
As before mentioned the distance be-
tween Cailao and Lima II six miles, but
as the latter lies a little more than 900
feet above sea level the short Journey
occupies nearly an hour. There are two
lines Of road both startinc from the
same point, but arriving at different de-
pots IN the capital city The one We
chose takes q sween along the eho~t o.
The harbor and around the old yellow
castle Of San Feline. which since reuub-
llcan days has been rechristeue1 Ia
Fortaleza he II indonendonca. Then We
mpander SLOWLY through a cane butt
suburb and strike off I'm a ftNight line
mast the Aldea and the Tampo Santa
Bella Vista A rood deal NJ the way
runs parallel with the camno real o~
roval road Of the Standards, once well
paved and lined with trees hut now
covered with loose stones and sand
through which the bic wheeler carts NJ
the carreters are dragged with difficulty
by struggling mules So slow is the as
cent that the traveller has ample onNor-
tuntv to view the countrv which IL
mainly n parched waste divided into
squares by mud walls, with here an