Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-01-17

correct Information. He cannot render de-
cisions and have them carried out with the
force Of law. The mode. so far as 1t per-
tains to formal day and evening dress. Is
most firmly established and 1t should DO
lived up to by every man who cares to do
the conventional thing. To be truly con-
ventional one must not dress conspicuously,
and one cannot escape doing Il IL personally
formed standards Of dress are adopted and
maintained In defiance Of all the regulations
OF society and good usage.
This winter there have been remarkably
few departures. The only changes have
been In very slight alterations in clothes
and In the shade Of gloves. Otherwise the
mode OF q year ago has not been changed
This Is al 1t should be. AZ q matter OF
fact the changes that have been made in
tue last ten years In formal dress are only
noticeable to the most careful students Of
dress, neither the every day man nor wo-
man can see them. The addressed crowd
winding its way churchward on a Sabbath,
or operaward during the week, does not
differ In complexion from the crowd Of ten
years ago. There are-the same frock coats,
the same silk hats, patent leather shoes.
gray worsted trousers and black overcoats.
I say the same. but you must understand
that only use that expression in regard to
tout ensemble; in details the changes have
been muititudinous but many Of them have
not survived. So few have. that the per-
manent changes made by them are scarce
ly perceptfble.
The Fold Collar.
One Of the most curious examples Of the
sturdiness Of an accepted fashion may be
found in the fold collar. This style has so
firmly established itself that 1t cannot be
dislodged and 1t is today the favorite with
so many men that it must be allowed that
1t is one of the fixed types in collar style.
1t Is worn by men In evening dress, formal
day dress and every day dress. Whether
If Is N piyo ctrch 1ihpraI
is open to question. 1t most certainly
should have no place in formal dress, but
the fact remains that it has-if we take as
proof Of its standing the number that are
to be seen at any gathering OF men at any
large formal afternoon or evening affair
such as the horse show or the opera: do
not indorse these idiosyncrasies of fashion
nor can any haberdasher indorse them.
They cannot In any sense be even called
fashions, but stand as manifestations of
taste, solely the creation Of the men who
inoulge in them and are. and must always
be classed strictly with the idiosyncrasies
and not with the fashions. II a man perfer
yellow metal buttons on a frock coat to the
conventional black buttons he may wear
them, but that will not entitle the innova-
ton to any consideration from a man who
lives. dresses and COMFORTS himself as the
ordinary mortal composing good society
decree to conventional.
Among the seasons most recent peculiari-
ties are the canary colored gloves. These
with business dress. although the former Is
not out of place when worn with the cuta
way. The question Of the proper glove for
formal day wear has been well settled. The
gray Sue~e Is by far The best. The backs
are ornamented with needle points or i'm
perial points ins' cad Of embroidery, the lat
ter are out Of fashion in every form Of
handwear. For cold weather the white
Ringwood gloves with black backs and the
solid wrist capes, as well as the stout hand
sewn dogskins are very popular. Fur-lined
gloves showing q bit OF the fur at the wrist
go well with the heaviest Of overcoats, but
are not intended for wear with anything
more formal than outing or business dress.
There have been no changes In evening
gloves, the cream white, with two needle
backs or imperial backs, and closing with
one large rearl button being the best. and,
in fact, the only proper handwear.
New Forms in Wings.
In collars the new forms in wings deserve
some attention. When these collars made
their appearance after years Of retirement
the wings were very large and were-bent
well back. Now the tendency seems to be
toward smaller wings and less opening. The
round point wings are also finding some
favor and have gained ground steadily
since the opening of the town season. The
poke collars were never in better form.
This Is a collar that fits the long coats per-
fectly. 1t goes so well with the big Eng
fish squares, and the narrow coat collars
that 1t has taken the premier place in all
stages of formal dress. I also notice that
in some Of the best shops wide stitching
has been abandoned ON all collars except
the wing and the fold. I never could see
why 1t was employed in the straight stand
ing forms. It looks we'll in wings and in
folds, and whatever looks we'll generally
finds that Endorsement which assures its
permanenecy.
The new business getaways have won a
prominent place in the seasons mode
m, TO xrylth Cty, Ia ofa
coats Of the same material and with trous-