The daily journal. (Salem, Or.) 1899-1903, 1903-09-03
NETWORK
FASHION
LETTER
New Makes and Ma
terialS for Autmn
Dresses
Fancy New Mixtures For
Chic Walking Costumes
Shorter Skirts Grow
ing in Favor

fingers in the lap OF autumn new fall
models fow from fashions horn OF
plenty Of countless numbers and great
variety. Many of them are pretty and
graceful; others, with pathetically
plain skirts and severe waists would
make Diana herself look like a scare
crow.
Thevery rough weaves head the list
81 ultra-smart materials and these are
shown In almost endless variety Of
color and combinations. The mixed
tweeds, slbelines, cheviots and gran
ties were never prettier than now and
appear at their best in grey. brown.
plum color. soft tones OF red and
green.
A suggestion for a gown in either Of
these materials has the skirt made
plain. though very full and hanging
In great folds all about the feet.
The emplecement OF the corsage is
in white cloth. over which Is a trans.
parent piece of red mousseline. on
this are embroidered sun discs in
black with red flowers touched In
cream. Passamenterie buttons in red
constitute smart ebit of trimming.
while the collar and cuffs are also Of
red velvet.
Another smart autumn suit Is devel.
oped In a grey and brown mixed shot
with silk white thread. with irregular
touches of oranges scattered through
II. The lines OF both skirt and coat
are long and rather severe. The skirt
hugs the figure to the knees where II
flares out very full and the natty little
coat Ats like the proverbial paper on
the wall. The sleeves which are cut
loose and full. have curious little
points of orange colored cloth set In
near the elbow.
Embroidered cloth is combined
most beautifully with the rough mix.
lures In many tollettes. A rich brown
frieze. for instance, has the skirt sewn
In dispensing tucks over the hips and
back and an embroidered cloth front.
At each side OF the front is a plaited
fiounce which widens gradually until
Il Is almost half the length Of the
skirt at the back.
There is a plated blouse waist with
n front box-plait arranged below a cape
collar OF embroidered cloth. The
sleeves are plated and cut on the
bishop pattern. gathered into cuffa
also made OF the cloth.
These fancy new mixtures are by
no means limited to dress gowns, but
are employed for some very chic
walking costumes.A specially fetching
design has the skirt made perfectly
plain In the front, fitting exquisitely
over the hips and falling in an In.
verted box-plait behind. The jacket is
tight fitting. the front turning back
over a dainty vest In small revers
faced with white watered silk. Silver
fall buttons, seven on each side. are
placed on the front Of the garment, 20
emphasize the lines of the revers.
The distinctive note in the suit. how.
ever. is sounded by strapplngs OF
fuchsia mauve velvet, piped with
white silk, which come over the
shoulders and curve from the center
seam of the back as far down as the
darts in front.
The effort to revive watered silk
will probably be successful, as IL is
really the ultra-smart fabric for facing
revers and piping the prevailing strap.
pings and stitched tucks and plaits. II
is also employed very daintily as the
neck band 10 be worn when the waist
is cut away in the neck. The ends are
crossed in front under a jewelled slide.
allowed to fall In studied negligence
on the front of the bodice and are nm
ished with jewelled tassels.
Practically all the new outing cos
tunes have the skirts made ankle
length. The drop skirt having been
found somewhat unsatisfactory worn
with these short skirts. there Is ten
dency to a return TO the lined and
slightly stiffened skirt. Taffeta, that
most indispensable of lining materials
in the gun metal shades. will be the
fashionable foundation for the mixed
tweeds and rough mixtures. IL Is no
longer necessary 10 have skirt and
coat lined with the same color OF ma
terial. for dark tones OF grey or gun
metal taffeta are sometimes used TO
line skirts, while the silver tones OF
grey In satin, are used for the coat
Fancy weaves and brocades are also
used for coat Innings.