Evening star., 1903-09-19
AUTUMN GOWNS AND HATS.

many exclusive mofdaineS are wearing the
hair brushed loosely back without any
wave. This, / think, is the most chic of ALL
though it is much harder to dress the hair
in this style. Young girls wear the hair
low, with a black velvet bow behind. For
evening it is generally dressed high, with
innumerable tortoise sheel pins. Wreaths
of leaves and flowers are still worn, and
jewels are never out of fashion.
All the Parisians are wearing short
skirts in the morning. With light dresses
all skirts clear the ground, and with them
are worn taffeta petticoats of different
colors.
The day of the blouse of a different color
from the skirt is done The skirt and
bodice of the future will be of the same
shade With the exception Of white, a
blouse of contrasting color is a mistake
anyway. For instance with a brown
serge skirt what looks smarter than a
brown taffeta or spotted foulard blouse?
You can always add white muslin collar
and cuffs.
Strapped and Piped.
At Trouville somewhat plain skirts are in
evidence strapped and piped with some
light color, but there is marked attempt
to oust them by the more pleasing fashion
of killings, plaitings. gathers and tucks
Every detail shows a tendency toward the
dreSsy taIlor-made style, in which softening
qualities are introduced by means Of lace
or embroidery about the neck and cuffs.
Among the race toilets were seen some
charming models. Soft tussore silk COW
cred with English embroidery incrusted
with lace formed an exquisite costume A
coral pink mousseline silk fringed sash and
an 1880 shoulder wrap of richly embroidered
pink China silk, together with a large, en-
oroidered tussore hat decked with flowers.
completed one of the most distinguished
costumes of the week. A scarlet and
white figured fOulard was made with a full
gathered skirt. The gathers sloped DOWN
ward from the back of the waist. while a
large. pointed collar of cream guipurs fell
ever the blouse shaped bodice and bouf-
fant sleeves. With it was worn a high
stiff white collar finished by a little black
OF black tulle trimmed with black
plumes heightened the becoming eff
feet. The artistic touch of the French
modiste is brought into prominence by the
light colored gauze and lace wells These
are most daintily adjusted and finished be-
hind in rosettes or long elds and drapery
encircling floral crowns and broad brims
Large, lace-frilled picture hats are ex-
extremely popular. The Breton sailor and
the fiat hat with ribbon or velvet strapped
across the crown, like a bonbonniere one
sees in the shops along the Paris boulevard
are both worn.
Coarse Canvas.
There are good many serge and alpaca
dresses in scarlet, blue and white, but the
coarse. thick white or colored spotted can
vas seems to have carried off the palm of
the season. Pink, always charming was
never more so than in the present full tone
shades. L saw a fabric the other day a
very fine yoile, in the beautiful rose du
Barri shade. Indeed. I have seen several
fascinating frocks of this fashionable tint
One of them had a gathered skirt with
three PaQuin tucks and a bodice gauged
aboutthe sleeves and shoulders with deco
rations of cunning bangles of pink taf-
feta to match. The throat and wrists were
finished with lace frills. Another frock in
this shade had applications of chantilly lace
in the same tone with underlay of soft
whit satin, and round these applications
were narrow quillings of pink tulle with a
charming note of mauve panne in pip
ings on the bodice and on the pink taffeta
waistband.
Another version of the rose du Barri wolfe
frock for day wear has turquoise panne as
the accessory color of the bodice which
has deep collar of tambour lace with
embroideries of the turquoise panne to
weight it. Tambour lace of the more ex-
pensive kind is a great addition to any
frock. With so potent an accessory such
frock might easily be made to adapt it
self to evening wear. Printed chiffon makes
beautiful gown also, especially black chif-
fon with design in colors. / saw one the
other day made over white chiffon yelled
satin. The details in this gown were of
what is called in Paris "od green"
CATHERINE TALBOT,