The daily morning journal and courier., 1903-11-14
IN CHILl'S CAPITAL.
THE PRIDE OF SANTIAGO--FOUR
 MILES
Of Natural Beauty-How the chiIIans
 Take Their Morning Drink. Special Correspondence of the Journal

hardly knows where to begin a system atic round of sightseeing, so numerous and varied are the points of interest.
 An all-day's excursion is but as drop
 in the bucket, and after month of dili- gent hunting he learns that there are
 'lions' yet unvisited.
 For ourselves, let us commence with the famous Cerro de Santa Lucia. For one dollar an hour we may secure as
 handsome a coach, coupe or landau as
 the city contains, with a smart Jehu and pair of well-groomed horses; or, if not particular about style and dis
 posed to be economical, one may get a
 conveyance good enough for the pur-
 pose for half that sum. Our way lies
 along Santiago's greatest glory-the beautiful Alameda; and indeed, doubt if any city in the world can show so
 fine public promenade. It runs east
 and west through the heart of the city, from Santa Lucia to the Exposition Park, distance of little more than four miles. Six hundred feet wide, it is shaded by noisy streams dancing along
 each side, which are confined in deep channels of brick and cement, crossed by innumerable bridges. There are paved streets on the outer edges, a
 driveway one hundred feet wide, a street-car line, paths for pedestrians, and numerous stone benches under the over-arching trees; while down the mid-
 dle line of statues and fountains is
 scattered at regular intervals all along the way, interspersed with ornamental Sfo toned perhaps half mile apart, play every afternoon from three to five o'clock. The music calls the people out to walk or drive; and during the sum- mer months these public concerts are
 also given in the evening, when the up- town portales are deserted for this
 more extensive promenade. It is equal ly fashionable to come here at sunrise,
 but never in the middle of the day, as you value social standing, because then l it is given over to los pobres. Even be- fore sunrise you may see groups of well
 dressed gentry in every direction, out for their morning constitutional and glass of milk. One of the oddities Of the town is it's milk-stations. There are dozens of them along the Alameda, where bare-footed women tether their cows from five till nine o'clock every morning. Each four legged mother is Accompanied by a calf, which is effec- tpally prevented from seeking it's natu- f ral sustenance by leathern muzzle over it's mouth, and is leased, draggel and driven by the numerous progeny of l the tWo-legged mother. To these milk stations come troups of nurses with ba- bies in arms, ladies, gentlemen and children of the aristocracy, each to pur-
 chase drink, which they may be sure lis fresh and unadulterated by seeing it lmilked before their eyes, directly from I the COW into the glass. "A foaming 1 goblet at five cents a gob," as an Amer iican facetiously put it. But it is not
 strained,'' I said in horror to a Chilian Iacquaintance. Why should it be lstrained?" was the astonished reply. l"Would it really be made any cleaner
 by that process? Besides it would ruin 1.-the rich foam, which is to cows milk Icream' to beer. I By nine o'clock all traces of the milk ling have disappeared, leaving the grounds clean and sweet as ever. But lagain at evening you meet the vendors l going about the streets from house to mouse, followed always by the muzzled lcalf and a troop of far less well-be- lhayed human youngsters. On other
 streets there are stationery depots, where a cow is tied upon the platform and milked to order whenever a custo- Inner comes along; and when one COW is Iexhausted it is sent home and another Immediately takes it's place. On tas
 ble close by are measures, cans and l glasses, and often raw eggs, and a bot I tie of brandy, too, so that those who de- sire can brew themselves punch. But nobody in South America dreams of #lstraining the milk, and if foreigner ventures to hint that such is the custom lat home, they stare at him in amaze lment, not unmixed with scorn, as one twho would paint the rose" Piled un- der a tree in the Alameda, close by a beautiful bronze fountain, we saw a Ivast but rapidly diminishing heap of watermellons, that luscious fruit being
 as highly relished here as among plan- ltation negroes. Among the finest of the thirty or forty statues in the Alameda lis that of the good Adde Morina, who lby all accounts was one of the purest linen that ever lived. But being set up lhere in bronze or marble is no proof of that. Says one: "Chi1i has assassina- ted or sent into exile some of her no-
 blest sons; but she. never failed to per- petuate their memory by grayen i'm lages."
 The most venerated statue in the
 whole collection is that of General Bar Iney O'Higgins, who, as his name indi- cates, was not Chilian. Here he ap- pears in gorgeous uniform, mounted on
 a prancing steed and proclaiming liber- ty to the people. He is called the George Washington of the country, and ilauded as the greatest man of his time,
 Living at a period when the nation was shaken to it's depths by the momentous lauestions whether the clergy should or should not friz the hair over their fore lheads in bang" and whether the president should attend church in mili- Itary uniform or the dress of private citizen-he freed the country from the rule of Spain, averted threatened revo- luton, gave character and dignity to the national government and succeeded
 in uniting all the interests of the differ ent factions.
 | Fronting the Alameda are the most