Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1903-03-26
new YORK FASHION LETTER
The Popular Color OF Spring is Grey
Spring Models In Waists and Skirts
Airy Fairy Sleeves.

shown in two Of the prettiest fabrics of |
the season. silk wolfe and vaporine, the |
latter being an improved mousselne.
Either the all grey toilette or the grey |
gown trimmed with a contrasting color |
is d. rigeur. and both are so pretty that |
there is only one safe thing to do-seicct |
one of each. An exceedingly chic after |
noon gown gives expression to the vogue
which frinCed trimmings are enjoying this
season. The exQuisitely cut skirt has
three founces around the hem frngcd
with grey chenille. each strand support
ing grey silk poppy-leaf so that, as the
wearer walks. little huttering showers of
leaves make accompaniment to her foot
steps.
The bodice. draped across carefully
cofsetted figure, fits out with miniature
replicas of the same seductive trimming
and toque of several shades of grey
crowns a NEST acceptable ensemble.
Grey and white are daintly combined
in house dress of silk bioge. The skirt
is shirred the entire depth of the hips
and falls in flowing lines to the floor.
Around the hem are three bias tucks put
on by means of fancy stitch that sug-
gests cross between hem stitching and
fagotting.
The bodice is laid in the tniest tucks at
the back and drarcd over a perfect-ftting
taffeta lining. At the front the biege is
laid in inch wide box paits and draped
effect The plaits are longest at the side
seams. but are cut away with so much
decision that the general outline is that
of n bolero cut dagonally to show the
entire front of the bodice. Around the
edge of the piaits there is an applique of
gupurc lace. while medalions of the same
trimming are applied to the immaculate
chiffon vest.
The sleeves show a modified Louis
Quinze effect. Instead of the arm being
hare from the elbow, the lace cascade
falls over a very full putting of white
| chiffon, ending in a tight wristband of
| lace, relieved with narrow pipings of grey
| silk.
| All of the new voiles. however, are not
| in solid color. BY way of novelty there
| are checks. silk spotted designs, or de-
| designs decorated with splashes of an
other harmonizing color. One striking
| costume developed in dotted wolfe. in grey,
OF course. depicts a skirt gathered in
| three pieces. These. it may be explained,
| are not founces. but rather pulled por-
| tions. bordercd with ouillings Of ribbon.
| The bodice is really a Louis Quinzc coat
OF grey brocadc tafteta trimmed with lace
| and mousseinc.
| Spring models now portraymuc fullnoss
in skirts, but not to an exaggerated cx-
| tent. In fac. the gathers appear only in
| suitable materials such as silky canvas,
wolfe, crepe. mousseline and chiffon.
| Vaporine, also lends itself admirably to
| this new fashioned skirt. There is lit
| tie that can be said in description of the
fabric, for everything is expressed in the
name. The stuff is beautifully soft and
| filmy looking and is very durable 1t is
| the happiest compromise between the ele-
giant and practical qualities that one could
| imagine.
| So far it has been seen at its best in
! an evening gown that shades from deep
| o
| division between the shadngs being
marked by encircling ruches of chiffon,
| which brings together the varying tints.
while a curious scroll device in gathered
chiffon appears on both skirt and bodice
| and is caught in at intervals into gleam-
| ing bondage of lovers knot bows Of dia-
monds.
| There is n shimmering embroidery of
| silver on the corSage where folds of tulle
at the decolette are in yellow so pale
as to be almost white. the deepest shade
of color coming at the hem, an1 the
foalny frils of the petticoat shading IN
i wards from deep orange to yellow.
| One could hardly imagine anything
prettier than toilette in ccru silk wolfe
with full gathered skirt encirclcd with
several rows of the same coorcd fringe.
The corsage blouse has circular rows of
this fringe passing round the front and
over the arms meeting tho elbows. whence
a voluminous puff makes the sleeves
! which disappear into a tight fitting en-
broidcred cuff
Il The sleeve is an important feature in
the spring gown and there are many
variations Of it that it is difficult to rec
ord them all. An airy fairy design, how
ever, is composed of one vast puff of
plated chiffon which is caught at four diff
ferent places around the arms, so that
three puns are gained, the centre one
below the elbow. being the largest. a
simple white mousseline frock shows this
model. The skirt is n graceful fan OF
} plated mousseline depending from yoks
of cream lace. The bodice is treated in
the same way and boasts no trimming eX-
cept a fschu of mousseline edged with
rutties of lace.
One is reminded of the novels OF older
times where the heroine always appeared
in pure white dress with a touch OF
! crimson at her fair throat and in hel
: hair by the combination OF white and
, scarlet that the modsteS are trying to re-
vive. The idea Is very pleasing as shown
III several evening gowns, one particular
design in cream satin having a sash OF
scarlet threaded through the skirt in orig
, inal design
, The popularity of the pongee coat fol
spring is decided. \ distinguishing feat
ure of the design is its length which Il
four fifths. instead of three-quarters as
} formerly. This Is designed with spccia
CONCENTRATION LOT tHe petite SISttTHpou
, who are apt to be strikingly becoming
} to tall women.
| Unlncd coats OF ladies cloth ard Nene
tian are very smart. They are made, II
e many instances with collars, affordint
an advanta geous view of the fancy stool
above. The sleeves are unusually wide 81
that there Is no danger of crushing thu
sleeves of the dress and heavy silk cord
take the place OF lace as trimming, un
less the lace Is a thick yak.
Some of the hats are very summary ant
| delightful in effect one which IL en-
inently becoming Is OF fine satin straw
of clearest white. There is no other trim
ming save n wreath of delicate pink or
chidS and white silk roses which linden
the brim at the sides and hack with thei
, weight making an exceedingly pretty pie
ture for the face,
The hat which turns back from the fac
, will be worn great deal although /
1 means an extra coat of cold cream AM
frequent applications of freckle lotion. IL
I these days of beauty culture, however
z there seems no reason why one SHOULD
/ not dress In the fashion and preserve tn
Q complexion at the same time. for ther
is q remedy for almost every facial Il
1 | imaginable and otherwise.
The newest ready-to- wear hat Is a Bre
q ton sailor of burnt straw appliqued aroun
, the brim and grown with buttons o
: darker straw and trimmed with a taffet
O band through which is inserted a quill o
French felt.
4 MAUDE GRIFFIN.
|
g When completed the Liverpool Museur