The sun., 1903-05-17
keep the fulness from being bunglesome

/
keep the fulness from being bunglesome
al the waist line.
Beneath the yoke the skirt may fall
plainly to the hem, may be finished with
founces or horizontal tucks, may take
the form of a double skirt or may be held
in by groups of shrrings at intervals down
to the knees, faring fully below that, This
latter model, when cleverly handled, gives
good silhouette and reconciles the full
skirt to the figure not over slender, but
il is hard to manage gracefully ana the
ordinary dressmaker is advised to beware
of it.
Such frock illustrated among the
sketches is we'll suited to the girl whose
skirt length is pronounced. 1t Is OF chinon
and the skirt is shirred in narrow groups
of fine shirred tucking, and finished with
two deep founces OF imitation alens on
lace. The full blouse has deep lace bertha
and transparent guimpe OF shirred TUCK
ing, and with it is worn broad loioed
girdle and long sash ends
The bertha is the device most customary
for giving the long dropping shoulder
line and proper silhouette to the thin, glrlish
frock, and is almost universally becoming.
With it, as a natural accompaniment, ap-
pears frequently the high folded girdle,
usually, in the case OF commencement
frock, having short or long sash ends.
The short full bolero also consorts ami
cably with the deep girdle. and this effect
is exceedingly popular in Paris for every
sort of costume, from tailor frock to NOUS
seline. In lace or in the sheer frock material.
tucked and trimmed appropriately, the
full short bolero is a distinct success for
the youthful frock. and one OF the frocks
pictured here shows a good bolero model
closing across the front instead of being
left open and forcing consideration OF an
under blouse problem.
The bolero is accordion plated and two
bands of lace run around It,. A full accor-
dion plated outer sleeve has the same lace
bands, and the full bolero with it's full sleeves
looks almost like a short cape.
Around the neck line and out over the
shoulders and sleeve in epaulette fashion
is a fiat band made Of narrow bias bands
of white satin joined by open work fagot
stitch. The underseeves. shallow guimpe
and collar are Of lace and the skirt is ac-
Gordon plated and trimmed in lace bands.
The epaulette of one kind or another
gives a long shoulder line TO the frock
without bertha, cape, collar or fichu. The
sleeve where upper armhole is dropped
far below it's usual position, allowing bodice
trimming to continue unbroken around
the sleeve top is also in evidence upon the
thin frocks under discussion. A shirred
yoke running we'll down over the shoulder,
shirred upper sleeve and shirred skirt
yoke form the only striking trimming of
some severely simple little frocks finished
COLLAR and tOiftar,
cuffs are worn with soft floating sasles.
Another model almost as simple and
youthful has n full skirt finished with If
teen tiny lace-edged frills, and demure
fchu bordered by a number Of correspond
ing frills is folded around the shoulders
below deep gumpe of lace. Then there
is a little gown which is also within reach
of a slender purse and home dressmakers
skill and which has it's full skirt finished
with deep fo,nce which from top to
bottom is covered by rows Of narrow lace
rulled on in shallow scallops or festoons.
A deep bertha is covered by the same froth
Of cream lace and the guimpe is OF lace
inserton bands joined together.
Simplicity of kind vastly different and
less easily attained is Illustrated in silk
mousseline gown shown in the large picture.
The body of the skirt is all tiny bands OF
mousseline set together with openwork
stitch. The deep founce has border OF
the bands and openwork and the blouse
of band and openwork has a gumpe Of
finely tucked mousseline.
All the frock is hand worked, but its
distinctive feature is the hand embroidery
in the form Of tiny vines and garlands
done in palest green and trailing artfuly
over hounce and guimpe In and out among
the bands and open work and around inset
lace medallions.
A soft sash of pale green carries out the
color idea, which does not, as any other color
would detract from the white motif OF the
correct graduating frock, and merely sug-
cests the LEAKAGE of pure white flower.
Teneriffe and Mexican drawnwork laoes
are novelties readily adapted for graduating
frock trimming, and save when a wash lace
is needed--this for the sake Of appropriate
moss only; few of these dainty frocks even
in lingerie form will ever approach tub
the fine imitation Aencon is liked for girish
frocks. Occasionally one sees a collar or
bertha and skirt band OF heavy lace, but
lichtness and fiuffiness are the correct motif
for the girl graduates frock, and the deli
cate laces are preferable to the hea vier
ones.
The sash. grdle corsage, knots Of rib
bon, or Of ribbon and flowers, add much
to the charm Of the graduates picturesque
attire, and by careful choosing and hand
ling of such accessories even a very simple
frock may take on originality and caohet.
but these details deserve a story all their
own.