The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-11-22

used. In fact, we are so accustomed to
associate dark, rich brown with the skins
Ii has come to seem theirs by nature
rather than art. This little bolero was
quaint and odd, but hardly so handsome
as the dyed fur even while it serves to
exemplify the way in which every possible
variation is sought. The fur was soft
looking and showed all the shades of gray
with the odd. irregular spots of the nat
ural seal. effective and unusual. but. to
my eyes. not truly beautiful Handsomer
by far were the little coats OF mole with
ermine collars worn with gowns of cloth
or velvet of the same shade, and OF these
there were many. Sable. mink. fox of all
sorts. ermine. broadtail. white breitscwanz.
all things and everything were
there. After the little coats the pelerines
were most numerous and 1 have
been much impressed with how gracefully
they are worn. most superb example
was to be found in one of generous size
with long stole ends that was worn by
young matron of beauty and repute 1t
fell well over the shoulders and down the
back and required all her stately height
TO mean grace and style. The fur was
sable and the finish bands of ivory Cluny
lace laid over ivory cloth and threaded
with chenille, the bands each terminating
in big tassel of chenille The lining
white satin. The muff matched the pele-
rine and both were in harmony with the
gown Of brown chiffon velvet, but it was
the fur and its trimming that caught and
held my eye In shape it recalled the 1880
time, but in detail it was wholly new.
Never before this season have we seen fur
trimmed in this way, never such varied
effects. Simpler pelerines were OF mole.
with touches of ermine and of mink and
stone marten untrimmed, but this treat
ment of fur is the seasons own and for
that reason I have chosen it for special
description. Few long coats are seen in
the afternoon. OF those 1 must speak
later. But some exquisite little coats ap-
pear day by day. A really fascinating ex-
ample was worn by young girl and
combined mole with ermne and with silk
braid. In style it was an Elton, but was
made in overlapping sections, each finished
with castelated edges, trimmed with
fancy braid. The broad collar was of err
mine and the wide bell sleeves. with edges
cut to match those of the coat, fell over
full puffs of the fur. The accompanying
hat was a turban of mole with ermine
brim and single white tip.
MUCH VELVET WORN.
Cloth gowns have outnumbered every
other sort each afternoon that 1 have at
tended the show, but velvets were there
and some silks. Brown, violet and gray
are the favorite dark colors.
Champagne, sea foam and mushroom are
the preferred lighter tints. but these last
are largely reserved for evening wear. As
only corroborate now, long coats are the
rule with walking suits. short with those
made en- traine, although no law can be
laid down. for 1 have seen elegant cos
tunes of velvet combining trained skirt
with long coat. Some of the smartest
walking suits were of plaid, made with
plated skirts and long fitted coats and
worn with fur scarfs OF the smaller sort
These are soft and supple and knot about
the throat. are crossed and held with a pin
or take the form of small collars with stole
fronts fringed at the ends. Fringe or trim
ming of some dangling sort is universal
One sees few If any scarfs or pelerines
without.
charming costume in violet cloth was
made with a many-gored. much-f1ared
skirt, made to train little. and bolero
coat that was deliberately trimmed with
braid and carved dull gold buttons and
was short enough to show the soft vest of
paler chiffon velvet below as well as at
the front. It's sleeves were very snug above
the elbows, very much pulled below and
terminated in two deep ruffies Of cream
Venise lace below the fiaring cuffs. With
1t was worn hat Of silk beaver. showing
a broad brim and distinct crown, trimmed
with two plumes and band Of velvet en-
broidered with gold. The wrap was a pei
crime Of MOLE Another, seen almost by its
side. was Of smooth gray cloth with long
coat made with attached skirts. and trained
skirt trimmed with handsome braid and
gold buttons. The fronts of the coat were
faced with white and opened to show a vest
formed by cascades of cream lace. AS a
rule colors for the afternoon are quiet
Older women were to be noted In black
velvets and some velvet costumes in color
are worn, but the grays and browns, greens
and violets predominant. One Of the we'll
known society women wore gray velvet