The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-09-26
HANDSOME PARIS GOWNS
THEY SHOW BEAUTIFUL COMBINA-
TIONs OF COLOR AND MATERIAL.
For Most Women They Must Seem q
Pleasing Picture, and Less Cost.
ly Garments BE Bought.

Correspondence of the Indianapolis Journal
NEW YORK, Sept. 23.-The gowns Of
autumn, many of Them are really superb
1t would seem that the designers and man.
ufacturers have outdone themselves. Never
that l remember, have such beautiful and
such varied materials been offered. Never
have colors been so exquisitely blended
never have the periods of history been so
thoroughly ransacked and made to serve
present ends. Not that We have any re-
pleas of any former age, not that old por-
traits have been copied, but that hints, sug-
gestions and bits lave been taken wherever
SOund and blended and united in a way that
means something all our own, something
wholly modern and wholly new. That there
are to be very nearly all things for all
women becomes more and more apparent
each week, but, nevertheless, some old
friends are missed among the finer models
and some features that have become so
general as to seem almost perennial are not
found as yet. 1t is early, to be sure. Be-
tween this time and real winter there is
ample time for reaction, but these early
models are to be noted for the absence of
even in cloth. Velvet is to be freely used
both as a foundation material and trim
ming, and is shown in some fine, light
weight qualities that render shirring both
possible and effective. All skirts appear to
be curtailed in length. Carriage costumes
show only the slightest eIongation at the
back and even evening gowns are made
with slight trains. Indeed, such must be
the case, for latest models are little gored
and there Is not the opportunity offered
for sweep to which we have grown ac-
customed.
Among a generous collection of Paris
models, shown me by an importer of note
shere was manifest such an Infinite variety
of color as to leave the Impression that the
entire rainbow with all the variations and
gradations that have been developed within
the past few years, to be called into
requisition to meet the seasons demands.
Yet, while this is unqestionably true, there
is marked preference shown for rich
browns and blues as well as plums in the
costumes designed for visiting and the like.
One that 1 noted specially is of broadcloth
in deep warm shade of chestnut and is
trimmed with velvet in the same shade.
The skirt is made after a model that. If
mistake not, / have already mentioned and
is box plated to form a hip yoke IL is
only slightly gored, but is laid in plaits an
inch in width that meet and are stitched
quite fiat to the depth of a generous yoke
below which 1t falls in folds. 1t touches
the ground at the front, makes the smallest
OF demi trains at the back and Is trimmed
with broad bands of the velvet put on with
free stitching at each edge executed in
knitting silk. The coat is more novel than
attractive but. nevertheless, marks some
features. 1t is short, blouse, with belt
and narrow peplum attached. The clos
ing Ii at the back and ii Is heavily trimmed
with velvet: while at the neck is a single
burnt orange finishing the collar The
sleeves full with flare cuffs of velvet
and show wide frills of white lace that fall
style of the coat is, / think, a bit ex-
IRENE. but these falls of lace and the bit
of orange in the collar are to be needed as
significant.
FAvORITE COLOR.
Orange is favorite among all whom
1t suits and reds and blues are used in
similar ways, but, as always is the case
when brilliant contrasts are attempted.
must be handled with skill to give good
results The French are past masters in
the art. They send US costumes that show
most daring things satisfactorily accom-
plished. but less skilled folk are apt to
fall deep into the pit OF despair when they
attempt similar things and. therefore, let
me urge caution. Orange on brown is not
likely to offend, let anyone wear IL who
may, but when one combines blue with
mauve or green with blue or even red with
gray. care, taste and. above all, a correct
A second costume of the group Is of
mouse colored CLOTH OF the most supple sort
and also is trimmed with velvet The skirt
is simply full. gathered at the belt and
velvet discs are set in irregularly, or so il
seemed to the depth of a generous fiounce
The coat Is an Elton and in II all the glory
lies. Down each front is a narrow vest of
velvet in red deeper than cerise, yet
neither scarlet nor cardinal. Edging this,
again, is white fur. a bard OF which also is
arranged at the lower edge. This fur is not
ermine, but some simpler sort and shows
small discs OF velvet set at intervals
The band Is set under the coat and caught
to the lining at the upper edge. At the
front also are handsome gold buttons three
at each side. The sleeves are FULL finished
with cuffs touched with red. but owe their
special splendor to the double frills of lace
These are pure white and fall to the finger
tips the under ones being held at the
knuckles with tiny elastic inserted In a cas-
ing which. while II Is by no means tight
prevents its falling quite away from the
hands The discs OF velvet appear to be
favorites with many designers and are sasn