Amador ledger., 1903-12-25
A GLIMPSE OF TOKYO
SCENES IN THE SCARED CAPITAL
OF EASTERN JAPAN

A Widespread Medley of Unpleasant
Sights, OdOrs and SOunds-SOme of
the Inconvenience That Beset the
Foreigner In Shopping.
Tokyo, the vast sprawling capital of
eastern Japan, comparatively young
city, is aged with the scars of fire, of
earthquake and OF war. This great
city, once of 100000 inhabitants,
spread over what is popularity estimat-
ed as hundred square miles, seems
still to cover in the shadow of the for
tress of the great Iyeyasu.
For the American tourist unprepared
for the real orient and knowing Japan
only through her art products and the
few pen pictures of the artist rhapso-
dists who have embarrassed her with
their praises Tokyo is a rare purgative.
Except for the stately and dignified
tombs of the shoguns and the fine off
cial grounds and buildings of the capi-
tai he finds his senses assailed on every
side by unpleasant sights, odors and
sounds.
Approaching Tokyo by train from Yo-
kohama, he sees the green hillsides pla-
carded with enormous advertisements
Arrived in the city. he finds the poster
and billboard everywhere monstrous
and fragrant. Stagnant sewers lie along
the roadside, and foul odors arise from
sthe pavements, constantly wet down
by the househOlders. Porters and store
keepers with a rag of a breechclout or
a scant skirt jostle, shout and stare,
and perhaps q whole family may be
seen in doorway ready for the tub,
from which you see the steam arising.
A street called the Ginga is the state
street of Tokyo, and here in the even
ing you may find an infinity of wares
spread out upon the walk, which is one
of the few real sidewalks in Japan
Most of these wares, however, are a
vast inconsequential array of cheap
trifies, such as the enterprising mana
ger of an American five cent store"
might gather together. There are, how
ever, number of somewhat preten-
tious stores to be seen by the persist
ent shopper.
Shopping in Tokyo, however, is at
tended by many Inconvenience. To be-
gin with, your rickshaw man knows no
English and nothing about the stores,
and the names and numbers of streets
are known only to the map makers.
Where a. street has name it is likely
to belong only to the shady side and to
run around the block instead of contin-
ho
ever, you succeed in finding a store
your troubles have just begun. The
proprietor sits at the rear of the estab-
lishment, cross legged, before a small
desk. By virtue of being in his own
store he has reached the summit of
earthly desire and cares nothing about
you. Perhaps if you wait some small
clerk Of dozen years or less will come
to wait upon you and, seeing you are
a foreigner, will charge you extra for
the few words of English he can mas
ter
If you are bold enough to leave your
rickshaw and wander about on foot you
will soon attract curious crowd, the
clatter of whose wooden geta upon the
flags will well nigh deafen you. It is a
good natured, well meaning crowd,
however, and will soon be scattered by
a policeman. If there are any clerks
going your way they will address you
In the hope of learning few words of
English or inviting you to their stores.
There is no hostility or insult, only Gu
riosity and good natured, childish
amusement.
Modesty is an unknown quantity in
Japan, as one soon learns. If your rick
shaw mans two garments become damp
he is likely to change them before you.
and fellow travellers in the cars are
sure to change their clothes without
Difference to place or surroundings.
Men and women use the same tank at
the same time in the public baths with
out thought of improperly.
The streets of Japanese city are full
of interesting sights and seem never
twice the same. Every store and every
passer by is novelty that chains the
attention for a moment In land
where nearly all wares are hand made
every article has some individuality
and one is led on with the hope of find
Ing something better than the rest
Heavy loads are carried through the
streets on the backs of men and wom-
en-, on horses and on two wheeled carts.
The carts are drawn by bulls or shag-
gy northern stations and are guided by
the driver, who walks with the pole.
The burdens carried by women and
children are remarkable. All over ia
pan the heaviest work is done by WON
en-, the bricks and masonry for the new
museum and government buildings be
ing so transported in the heat of mid
summer. Children carry their brothers
and sisters strapped to their backs and
haul great loads on heavy carts. The
life Of the laboring classes seems very
arduous, and they are remarkably pa
tient and industrious. Throughout city
and country every one seems to be hard
at work.
The death rate Of Tokyo is very high.
The custom Of carrying very young
children strapped on the back with
their heads unprotected from the sun
leads to thousands of cases of brain fe-
yer and blindness. A majority of the
children bear the marks of skin dis
eases, and their heads are often nau-
seating to behold. The water used in
the city is suspicious, and travellers
drink spring water or tea. The general
practice of rubbing certain wooden i'm
ages on the temples to secure freedom
of
edly assists the spread Of various DIS