The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1903-09-27

and Dixon's line caught the fever and
in time of stress turned every available
white rag to undersleeves. Old linen
sheets were brought into account, the
good parts shaping the full puff exact
ly as it is seen to-day. Mosquito net
ting strung with colored wool was used
for the wide undersleeves made with a
number of tiny frills and falling away
from the bare arm. For a third style
a sort of headed fiounce, which could
be applied at moments notice to any
sleeve-white lawn was preferred. In
time. however, undersleeves in this
shape were seen even in the coarsest
long cloth, and they were admired at
that
These three models, with variations
and much of the charm of their long
dead period, are with us to-day, and
as in the long ago each displays the
correct undersleeve finish. Which is to
say, that all are made separate from
the costume, so that they may be
freshened or changed as of yore. With
one bodice three sets of undersleeves
are sometimes supplied, in as many
different cuts and materials; but for
the flowing sleeve of short cut only
something that comes distinctly from
underneath can be used.
This sleeve, to be the thing must
fasten directly upon the arm, ribbon
draw-strings or elastic bands being
used for the purpose. If it is a puff, a
close cuff band, sometimes very deep
and pointing over the hand, holds it
at the wrist. The edges of the frill-
ed undersleeve in fine lawns or mulls
are trimmed with lace or narrow flow
cred ribbons, and if the model is in the
shape of a deep sun pleated ruffle it
may show only a hem.
Such pleated styles are called pagoda
undersleeves, but as their extreme
width and the dead white lawn in
which they are made give them rather
an eccentric appearance, much of their
charm is lost. The true aristocrat
in undersleeves must half reveal and
half conceal the purpose for which
1t was created-one of coQuetry alone
Even Cupid would be harmless with
a label, and the same thing holds COOS
with undersleeves and everything else
in dress.
Three smart toilets by good malz-i
display effects suited TO the gentle
destinations of undersleeves. One in
pale brown cloth is perhaps the belle
of the group. as the quaint cut of the
Elton coat lends itself admirably tC
the requirements of the quainter arm
draperies. With the collar cut in the
form Of a deep cape with stole fronts
1t hangs low over the sleeve. which
short, open and slashed at the inner
arm. are themselves like capes. The
undersleeves are Of white silk muslin
in three frills. whose edges are trim
med with butter-c olored lace. Under
sleeves In the same form and materia
are pretty with edges of narrow rib
bon matching the gown tint--yellov
with yellow gown, violet, with vic
let, etc. With such borderings tn,
white sleeves themselves show up de
lightfully.
Under puffs Of white handkerchie
linen distinguish the sleeves of an
other street costume whose mottle,
tweed shows the familiar green an,
blue mixture. This striking colo
combination is again much IN favor
ana the newest blues shown separated.
are IN the rich indigo shade here EN-
ployed. Mazarine blue this tint wa
once called. and II seemed then IA
eminenty stylish maine. But to-da,
Me must say indigo" though the oh
words, frock' and body" which an
gems from The same period we are al
lowed 40 retain.
Returning 20 tht tweed gown am
remaining model both ~ tbeH
'@"H shew fashions fondnsas ~