Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-12-05

auctions of the modes of Ills to 1883. But
in the ateliers of the best artists there is
no wild exaggeration. Indeed. the fact that
a model has been seen at Worths Is the
signal for the smaller fry of dressmaker5
to rush headlong into imitation and to out
Herod Herod in their zeal. The King of
couturieres would not recognize some OF
the So-caled copies of his models. AS
matter of fact. none of the best designers
adhere slavishly to one style, but mingle
several modes in the creation of a frock or
cloak. The high authorities are very firm
In sufting certain style to the Individual
and in this way are beyond the reach of the
imitators.
Sunday also saw the close of the autumn
racing season at Chantilly. Owing to the
springlike temperature the smartest clothes
were worn by the women present. Is
pecially evident the popularity of the
tailor-made gown at this race meet. 1t
has been said that simplicity Is the final
refuge of the complex" and to prove 1t
here we are, while passing through phase
of unprecedented luxury and elaboration of
dress, gradually coming back to tailor
made simplicity.
The dressmaker may fill up defective con-
tours with fullness of material. with laces
and trimmings but it is the tailor who can
make" a figure, This is the secret of
the success of the severe tailor gown, which
is becoming alike to the slender, medium
or stout woman. The first woman the
tailor beauties. the second he does justice
to and the third he controls. Far be 1t
from me to depreciate the destinations Of
soft silks, lace and more redundant lines.
1 would merely keep the elaborate and
luxurious dressing for the social function
and home, and the tailor-made for morning
walks, shopping and travelling.
Change Will Be Gradual
Like the processes of nature, sartorial
revolution does not take place in moment,
and we will not step from elaboration to
simplicity at one bound. The change will
be gradual, a happy compromise. a modi-
fication of the sleeve and general tend
ency to closer lines
Paquin is celebrated for the tailor gown.
and invests it with daintiness without
rival in the history of dress. red cloth
frock of his-and we must all accept the
red costume, as it is here to stay-with
just a suspicion of ermine and red velvet
trimming is delightful.
A chic costume built along tailor lines
is a brown zibeline the skirt made in
three fitted fiounces and worn with a modi-
fication of the old Newmarket coat The
basque of the coat is cut with the very
slightest fulness and fits to perfection over
the hips. while all the seams are strapped
with cloth. Large brown velvet buttons
ornament the front lapels, and the turned
down collar is of velvet, simply outlined
with narrow gold braid. This coat when
dered with tiny brown velvet buttons. A
plain tucked chemiSette of white muslin is
a smart finish.
Tweed of a gray mixture is the approved
cloth for the modish tailor-made for all
around service. Many of these tweed gowns
show just touch of Lincoln green in the
piping. for you must know that we are all
welded to the wearing of the green" this
year Black will always hold it's own in all
the variations of costumes with navy blue
as second choice This winter our navy blue
suits will be frightened up with touch of
red, which will assert itself at the waist, at
the cuffs and at the opening of the neck.
Often red velvet waistcoat embroidered in
a modest pattern with duh gold metal
thread is feature of the blue gown.
Redfern has designed a three-quarter
white cloth coat which Is quite the most
stunning garment in wrapiand. 1t is trim
med with stitching and bands of musquash
brought in some delightful fashion known
to the furrier to the hue of sable. The triple
cape on the coat is trimmed with stitching
and fur, the original sleeves the two sides
of which are entirely different being treat
ed in the same manner. The under part of
this sleeve is quite plain and the outer half
is cut into succession of graduated, stitch
ed and fur-edged capes.