The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1903-11-15
BY HARRIET HAWLEY.

A well-known Partisan modiste has
announced this season that she makes
a speciality of dress waists 1t is
conclusive proof that, in spite of pre-
dictions to the contrary, the separate
blouse continues to hold much of it's
old time popularity. Indeed there are
many occasions where the blouse is al
most a necessity. At the matinee and
the afternoon card party it will hold
it's own against all rivals.
The tailor-made girl insists on the
separate blouse. For shopping and
travelling she wears the simplest of
shirt waists, but for more elaborate
functions, she insists on dress waists.
The modistes are putting forth their
best efforts to meet her demands.
The separate waists are more elab-
crate than ever before, although their
quiet elegance is not so striking as the
ruffies and furbelows which once
adorned the dress waists. More costly
fabrics are used-hand-pa painted and
embroidered chiffons, brocaded silks
that stand alone and cobwebby films
of lace.
Crepe de chine is extremely fash
ionable for dress waists. 1t lends itself
readily to the fine shirrings and cord
ings which are now en- regle, and has
a sheen which many women prefer to
that of smooth finish silk.
A dainty theater blouse is of white
crepe de chine, trimmed with square
medallions of honiton insertion. White
is the most fashionable color for
blouses, although an occasional pastel
shade prevents monOtony. This white
blouse has long shoulders and some
what of round yoke effect produced
by the honiton medallions. They are
applied obliQuely down the front to
within six inches of the waist line,
and follow the French curve which the
waist displays. The sleeves are tuck
ed to the elbows and have the circu-
lar founces which are a feature of
some of the most stylish waists. They
are edged effectively with the medal
lions.
This blouse, in common with most
of the dress waists, is fastened down
the back. The new style of trimming
straight across the bust to give the
long shoulder effects interfered with
if the waist is closed down the front.
Inc IdSleHluS uOWH the DdCk Is SUITE
times made with invisible hooks and
eyes, but tiny pearl or silk crochetted
buttons are even more fashionable.
The sleeves of the new dress waists
deserve an article all to themselves.
AS one woman of fashion remarked
1.-The only distinctive feature of most
of the new waists are the sleeves.
Otherwise they are all alike as two
peas"
In the main, she is right. The smart
woman must depend on sleeve ar
rangements as an outlet for her taste
and originality. There are bell sleeves
with under puffs of lace or chiffon,
sweeping angel sleeves, and bouffant
sleeves with long and slender cuffs.
This latter style is perhaps the more
feasible for daytime wear. The big
puffs are far enough from the hand
to prevent unwieldiness, while the
deep cuffs accentuate the curves of
a pretty arm. In most cases these
bouffant sleeves are tight fitting above
the elbow and thence widen suddenly
to remarkable proportions. The tight
fitting effect above the elbow is often
obtained by a deep sleeves cap, which
may be n continuation of the trim
ming across the blouse front.
81 have to have an extra dressing
room maid on my reception days
now" said a fashionable woman re-
Gently. THE long shoulder effects
and tight-fitting sleeve caps on the
nov gowns will not permit my guests
to raise their arms above their heads
even to rearrange a stray lock of
hair"
The same thing is true Of the sepa-
rate waists, but 1t is style that is
very becoming to the girl with a good
broad pair Of shoulders.
Pastel blue is a new and fashionable
color. Silk in that shade is made
up into an attractive waist which will
skirt with which it is worn 1t has a
shallow rounded yoke Of folds of the
silk joined by fagoting, and the low
crush collar is made in the same FASH
ion. Below the yoke runs a five-inch
band of cord shirring, bordered by
three tiny lace ruchings. This band
is continued over to form the sleeve
cap. The sleeve has the big puff be-
low the elbow. falling over deep cuffs
The cuff is itself ornamented with a
five-inch band of the cord shirrings,
and with an equal width of lace ruch-
ings. The effect is extremely dainty
The deep cuffs are of the cord shir-
rings, trimmed with medallions of
Maltese lace.
The same medalIions are used
across the pouch of the blouse front.
This has the fullness laid in fine tucks
on either side the bust below the cord
shirrings, while in front Il is simply
gathered. Lace rlchings are used TO
encircle the lace medallions, thus in
creasing the handwork required by