Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-06-13
THE NEW NECKWEAR
Mannish Effects Are All
Banished.
LINEN COLLARS ARELOW
DEEP CAPE COLLARS GIVE LONG
SHOULDERS
Pretty Color Harmonies in Colored
Stocks and Turn
overs.
Written for The Evening Star.

The choice of neckwear is a sure indca-
ton of taste and item of dress potent
to make or mar a costume. The most
charming couture, the most aristocrahc
features. and the most delicately rose-tint-
ed complexion may be coarsened by the
juxtaposition of slipshod neck arrange
ment. On the other hand. dainty stock
can redeem an entire toilet from the crime
of mediocrity.
Even the woman whose tastes incline to-
ward masculine cut and finish in her gar
ments cannot resist the attractions of
dainty neckwear. The eternal feminine
serts itself in spite of education or en-
vironment.
The business woman who Is forced by
reason of economy or the rules of practical
bility to adopt the plainest Of garb. finds
in the stock her only outlet for the love of
the beautiful. With her. too, the taste for
high mannish linen collars seems to have
passed away with the styles of other sea-
sons. The only stiff linen collars which the
shops are showing are low affairs with a
turnover. Often this is broken into round
ed tabs, or ornamented by line of hem
stitching or openwork embroidery. The
old-time stiffness is entirely lost. A morn
ing walk along the bouevards shows that
even these collars are worn with thin, fluffy
wash ties of linen and lawn. The effect is
decidedly feminine.
Cuffs come to match these linen collars,
and they are suitable for either morning or
shopping wear. The touch of white at
wrist and throat relieves the monotony of
the one-tone linen costumes Often the
cuffs and collar are stitched in color to
match the gown. The effect is very good
and carries out the idea so much sought
after this season that every article of a
toilet has been made with the distinct pur-
pose of matching. The rule is old and
valuable one in Paris. where the humblest
griSette knows how to impart individuality
to her everyday dress. One-tone costumes,
with perfect matching or skillful contrast
of colors. Is her maxim. Her example Is
now being followed by the women of every
nation. and this summer brings the stock
particularly under its sway.
White is Leading.
White is the most fashionable color for
the summer stock. although colors are also
used. But In the latter cases the stock OF
collar is only intended for use with a par
ticular gown.
A wealth of handwork is expended on
the white stocks and collars Drawn work,
lace applique and insertion and hand en-
broidery make them things of beauty.
In the all-white collar and cuff sets per-
haps the simplest are bands of fine linen
hemstitched on all sides. The inner space
is often entirely filled by a drawn work
pattern. Beautiful models are coming from
Mexico. and clever fingers are initiating
them in all countries. These are intended
to be worn over plain stocks and cuffs of
the dress material. They are kept in place
by small pins of gold or silver. which como
in sets of three for the purpose. The less
conspicuous the pin the better.
Equally simple linen and lawn collars and
cuffs have fine pleats for their only GINA
mentation. On some the fine oleats lun
straight up and dawn, on others they run
around the collar. and still again they arc
arranged diagonally. Pleated effects obtain
in the fine lawn Judge" collar. The long
Judge" stole Is finely pleated. Small
white pearl or linen crocheted buttons mako
an effective garniture between The pleats.
These Judge" collars are but recent
outgrowth of the popular stole collar. In
fact. the stole forms the motif of nearly
all the summer collars. 1t Is modified in
shape and multiplied indefinitely to such
good purpose that one woman may be pos
sessed of an almost innumerable number
of stocks and collars without having a
single duplicate.
Fine Lace Used.
The craze for coarse mesh laces, which
has peryaded every other article of dress,
seems powerless in the realm of neckwear.
If real lace is shaped into a turnover or
stock. it is of the finer thread varieties.
Point de Venise is a favorite for the turn
overs Many of the lace stocks are con-
tinued down In tabs and points to give the
effect of a shallow yoke This fashion does
away with the neck line, and will prove a
boon to the woman with the short neck.
still further development of the lace
collar is the deep round pointed yoke
collars which are attached to standing
collar. They give the long shouldered eff
feet, which must be attained at all costs.