The sun., 1903-06-07

dainty little garment is a thing Of beauty,
worn over sheer frocks In white or In pale
colors.
Taheta in plain color has declined in
popularity as a coat material since last
season. Pongee, tussore cloth and canvas
are preferred TO it, although taffeta coats
have by no means disappeared from view.
Pongee and tussore in the natural colors
or dyed are made into coats of all degrees
OF elaborateness, from the long severe
dust coat, already described, to the elabo-
rate Paquln coatee wonderfully Y orna mented
WIN silk Bruges lace dyed TO match the
pongee, and with wealth OF hand em-
broidery in pastel shades.
Pipings and Innings Of contrasting colors
trim many Of the more strictly tailored
silk coats, heavy stitching in the color of
the piping and Innings being an additional
finish.
Among cloth coats for dressy wear
white holds first place, but all the delicate
pastel tints, pale gray, biscuit, champagne,
porcelain blue, almond green. DC, are
we'll liked. Nine out of ten of these coats
have lace trimming antique lace being
prime favorite, and embroidery is almost
as ubiquitous az lace, but the embroidery
should be done by hand, II a woman can
not afford that, let her shun embroidery
altogether, for the machine embroidery
invariably cheapens the garment.
Almost all Of these light coats are full
and flowing; and. while many three quarter
coats are still seen, the shorter cont is dis
tinctly in the lead. Exaggerated sleeves
either flowing or baggy, extreme length of
IL. i
phasized features, bnt details vary
Cape effects are predominant and, on
the whole, are a nice choice. for deep
cape collar achieves the proper shoulder
droop more easily than any other trim
ming and. moreover, deep cape collar
goes far toward hiding any defect in the
cut of the garment-for the loose coat in
spite of its studied negligence needs skill
ful handling and must be out quite as care
fully az close fitting coat, If it is to have
successful lines.
Amajority of the cape collars are in lace;
but the rage for lace collars among cheap
ready-rnade coats initiates against the col
lar OF lace, in the minds OF the exclusive
makers. Really handsome lace is always
it's own excuse. but deep collars of silk,
cloth or linen cunningly inset with lace, or
overwrought with applique or embroidery
are more chic than collars Of any ordinary
lace.
One handsome model sketched here
was Of palest mastic cloth almost as light
and supple as crepe. 1t was in three
quarter length and plated all around; and
its collar was its only distinctive feature.
This collar had border of the mastic cloth.
but the main body Of the collar was of
white cloth. hand embroidered in sprawl
ing chrysanthemums In shaded lavenders.
Any woman who embroiders cleverly
would do we'll to have cape collar Of white
cloth cut and fitted and then embroider
prepared at slight expense a very fashion
able coat would be q matter Of compare
lively slight cost.
A host OF little wraps, hardly coat, not
quite cape, have appeared upon the scene
this season. and are giving makers an op-
portunity to display all their skill in unique
effects. 1t is hopeless to attempt a de.
scription Of these frivolous, pelerine like
garments; for no two are alike; but all show
the exaggerated droop Of shoulder and are
loose to the point Of Happiness. Fringe
is . favorite and appropriate trimming
for these wraps, which suggest the days
Of our grandmothers. and stole effects are
much used In this, as in all forms Of the
up-to-date wrap.
No account Of the season's coats would
be complete without mention Of the
linen coats. which are to be particularly
smart with tub frooks. These coats, either
short, or. less often, three-quarter length,
are made In all forms Of linen from fine,
smooth surface material to the coarseet Of
crash, and are. as rule, severely tailored,
but almost invariably in loose sack form.
Big pearl buttons. strapping and stitching
trim them, and occasionally linen lace Is
introduced. but not upon the best models.