The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1903-05-03
BY HOWARD GOULD.

b1 JtoW AMI 1oSIbD.
1t exceeds all that I had ever imagined
after reading the reports Of many eminent
travellers. It's beauty fully ~justifies Mr..
Anthony ]. Drexel Biddle's estimate in his
The Land Of the Wine" The approach to
Madeira by ship in fair weather affords one
of the most sublime and beautiful spectacles
to be witnessed anywhere in the world.
Before the vision the VerdanI
mountain isle towers in a glistenfng haze.
and appears like som realm of enchant-
ment that might readily be looked upon
as the kingdom of Neptune. 1t Is only
when the ship enters the Bay of Funchal
and draws near to a white and yellow CITY,
stretching inland from a curving beach.
through a valley and up the gentle slope
of surrounding hills. that the wondering
beholder can fully realize that he has come
to the habltation Of man and not OF gods
or of water sprites.
Beyond the hill-inclosed city the noun
tains rise precipitously in countless ranges
and lift their snowy SUBMITS into the re-
gions of mist. Fleecy clouds drifting across
the rays of the sun cause a play OF strange
shadows upon these monsters Of earth and
rock.
The highest mountains rise more than
five thousand feet from the sea From the
summit, overlooking the island and ocean
for miles on every side. one sees a mighty
chaos Of mountains and ravines stretching
below, away and afar: the aoysseS mat
seem to reach into the center OF the earth
suggest the entrance to the Internal re-
gicns described by Dante. 1t Is an i've
inspiring sight. this colossal volcanic up
heaval, and especially SO when seen at sun
rise or sunset.
At either the beginning or close Of day
the great powders and cliffs grow fiery red
precipice shine as with the CLEAN from a
mighty subterranean fire. Ihere are mo-
mel.ts when the entire island seems wrapt
in an entire confagration ana the effect
FEW ROADS OR HORSES.
Madeira E"na ar has easr,a fe@ T path; .an rsE mo n1rseS
trails are the highways of the island, ana
there are three modes OF traVeilng-py reae,
u hammock swinging between TWO men: by
by a ~tobogsaning sledge for rapid tfaVelnS
down mountain slopes.
Owing to inexperience, newcomers almost
invariably pass the rede with curious. sus-
pic.ous giances and select the CAIRO Ior tnelf
transportation with o degree OF seif,sati5-
faction amusing MSst ut, to one nnse s Whe nas d,re ais.
covered, that the rede Is the superior con
veyance for ease and comfort. and equally
safe Safe as 1s a spIISSs car q "a th and s mm9S edafefS
The fare in Funchal, the capltal city, Is
40 cents an hour for the two men bearing
the hammock. By the month the rate Tor
any part OF the island is but $50. Men may
be hired permanently to work as gardeners
and servants when not carrying
for about S1.5O each per month.
Mr.. Biddle says similar c~onveyances aIe
used in China and Japan. and the palanQuNt
of India just escapes being ldentlcal. out
the Madeiran rede Is Of solid comfort ana
In outward appearance superior TO AWNING
of its kind. The hammock bearer mas tne
strength of an OK and the endurance OF an
Indian. and will ascend hills and mountains
twice as fast as an American can travei III
incumbered on foot. The natives apparently
SOLID COMFORT"
The hammock itself is cushioned. cur
tanned and swung from a Iong pole, when Is
carried at either end on the shoulder OF q
redc man. With its pole and trappinSs IL
weighs about 100 pounds, and to thi, puroen
Is added the weight of the passenger, yer
all is carried with q remarkable ease by
the bearers.
Their gait. which may be described as the
MadeIran walk. Is quite peculiar 70 these
fslands-a long, Looping stride, Both bedy
and legs are kept straight, the shoulders
we'll thrown back. In walking the legs
are alternately swung loosely forward by a
pivotlike motion of the hips. When neces-
sary. the bearers break into a oog trot'
keeping, 1t up for miles with apparently III
tie misunderstanding improvised songs IN
Portuguese, describing the welghA a!ia pc
culiarities OF the travellers they are carry
Ing In the hammocks.
United States Consul T. C. Jones says e1-