New-York tribune., 1903-03-23
FORMS OF MACARONI.
Tdried and Curious Kinds Made by
Italians.


sons il the meal Of macaron to the exies OF italy
The making of It here holds marvellous possibilities
Of wealth to the newly landed and bright dreams
hover about the hiring Of many d1ngy ceIar
where the score or more varieties Of the succuent
article are to be manufactured For however suf-
dcieut the simple tubular sort known to American
Rrocery and department stores may seem TO the
many who buy it. the true Italian demands some
twenty-three different shapes to satisfy bis aTtSuc
appetite. There are large and small tubes grooVeo
and ungrooved curved and straight, and q sort O.
ruf1ed species that reminds one OF iuch-oeep Idce
gathered lightly at one edge. Then there are nat
varieties chopped into lengths Of from one 10 SIX
inches; there are half rings whose tubes are nearly
an inch in diameter, a kind that rejoices IN the
name OF terpateIu, and hairlike varieties called
privioteIu beside which the ordinary spashetu 1s
q coarse affair There Is also the lesayH' SO nne4y
chopped that it looks like honiny Win hoieS
through IL and it has to be dried on huge canvas
r1retchers The long ropeike kinds are hung In
three and four foot lengths over portahIe frames
that closely resemble the old fashioned oafreo
cIotheshorse-
GATHERS COATS OF DUST.
Occasionally a racaroni manufacturer will reach
q degree of opuience which makes it possible for a
whole room to be set aside for nacaronl drying
Then the stationary rods run from wall 10 wal
and for two days after Il comes from the NH eac"
batch Of material is allowed 10 hang there haroea
ing touKhening and incidentally acquiring coat
ing Of dust All the varieties may be turned our
by a single mill. by means Of different plates
through which the dough" is ground.
To begin the beginning OF the process ABOUT
half e barrel Of -four, very finely gFouno Va
riety is enptied On huge wooden mixing tanle
where sufficient water is added to make d sun
paste This is Ineaded by means OF a long SIX or
nine inch beam hooked loosely through a staple III
one corner OF the low, square table. This acts as
q lever by which one man can thoroughly Work
the whole half barrel mass, chopp1ng and rolLlrg
it until it sufficiently dry tough and etaSuC-
Then In chunks" it is fed to the mill nand
11~51I -I-n
long poles thrust through its upper portion Rouno
and round the hard earth foor they tramp TOT
hours at a time. while third. usually woman or
z boy gathers the finished article from Where II
falls beneath the mill. usually raised aDouI t"o
feet from the floor
In the number Of macaroni cellars visited by
Tribune reporter were found in which any
other provision than newspaper was mace 10
catch the material IT fell from the mill Sugges-
lions as to at least manila paper If not slab or
planed board. invariably met with stare o.
vonderment and shrug OF the shoulders. new
ruacaronf mill costs between and three hundred
dollars but a small secondhand one can often be
obtained for as little 500 or Sl5o The price
depends somewhat the number OF plates 1oF
making the different varieties As much as TWO
barrels Of -four made into doC@h daily in busy
seasons and for this little over two cents pound
is paid. while the nacaron1 averages about four
cents a pound
NO AMERICAN CUSTOMERS.
Italian made rnacaroni IN New-York finds small
market outside OF the Italian population and french
and italian restaurants. But 10 those for Whona
the dish has the favor Of home and aH sorts OF
dear associations the hereditary appetite for II can
be satisfied with nothing else. It is not uncommon
10 see whole family sit down to meal Of bread
and r1acaroni only. though with the latter heros,
vegetables and sometime chees T fed 5e on IL bfore m
they weaned. and no crone is so oId ana tooth-
less but she relish her share -,- !.
The family living rooms are almost always d
recIIy Of the macaroni plant II not identlcal with
ard ArTiT one
dear TO Italian hearts, quite covered w1th great
FePoe o. on tns Cradles tie ooTan
visit to an amateur macaronl establishment ctten
results for the unnitated in the smashing OF H1nch
marketable stun.
HIS POOR LITTLE ROMANCE.
One touching incident in connection with the
trade was learned in q Thonpson-st. sub-cellar.
The teller of IT, however who is the present ten
ant recounted II In matter Of fact way. leaving
the listener to read between the lines His prede-
cessor, seemed. had been young & man who same came
eyed NeapoIitan had been brought over here by her
family. who to seek their fortune. But as the
eyes and The rose ttt faded from the oval cheek
Honesskess was me & d Tdy no o9e & s0Ife fe ta k5d
iy TO the American work which her enterprising
bition was fred to take her back home with him,
though the ways of the new country were a.r+a9dy
Be- sRfeib6oRe borPowea S the % oney Sgy small aesTSai
price Of The ordinary basement, and set 70 work
with such VIII only the fine t. Frenzy OF ,ss the
that had troubled him at times throughout his
tWenty-odd years now grew worse The cellar vas
T-sTrbedIy damp the sheets and tiers OF dank
donSb were with him night and day. for q pallet
~ The corner was his only bed. and the tresdmiH
10Y sapped his sinking strength TO De sure
the Rtri had not smiled upon his suit she had not
even said that her only desire WAS TO see ner hos
bow toiied on One morning they founc mn nlm {Go
S|eak ~ rIee md the hospital claimed hlEn Ete
S,ed oniy a month before the stitor for Whom the
gjrf Rad really piaed, and against Waom ths
barents had some prejudice. arrived to carry OF
his bride by main fofce., -, o.. H.. e. ,.. -,,os
aI-SST ThS rsFrStnr lAccnicaIy; me strong EaS
co1cssSs 80 - fTTr1aA aR&ip 70 his grinding