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The Hawaiian gazette. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1865-1918, 1903-08-07
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The Hawaiian gazette. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1865-1918, 1903-08-07

cause; and that about eight days prior
to the date of the assault Ferris point
ing to Watson who was some distance
away, had said to one Blackwell a wit
ness for the prosecution, "See that son
of a - 1 will fix him yet" Upon
the evidence then before it the jury
would have been justified in finding
that the killing was committed not in
the heat of passion but in cold blood
and with premeditated malice afore-
thought
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-24
asllions as Seen In the Gay Thr0ngs at Nice

silk work-all are in vogue. It matters little whether the stitchery is coarse or fine. whether it recalls the BayeuX tap estry or the fine roses of China which look as if they were painted. They copy natures work, but they do not follow nature faithfully in the east. Birds and flowers alike are convention alized, and rules of drawing are ig- nored. Fashions come and go but these embroideries are always in vogue and have been for centuries. They are so thoroughly and we'll wrought that they do not deteriorate. Until the last few years Chinese embroidery had been employed as household furnishings rather than on dress, but we are now placing it on effective backgrounds and using it for entire robes and for evening cloaks.
 For these effects I think there is no groundwork like black crepe de chine. The long, loose stitched work in white now SO much in vogue is devoted prin- cipally to cloth materials. We are us- ing medallions of embroidery on many fabrics, and we are brightening up our dark winter gowns with collars and vests worked in colored silk
 Marrying and giving in marriage are always before us. An acceptable nov city is the picture wedding, where the bride, bridesmaids and near relatives wear dresses inspired by old pictures The lace trains are so arranged on the bodice as to form fchus. White satin empire gowns are in favor for attend ants, and the guests are wearing a great deal of velvet covered with lace. These gowns often have slashings of satin about the sleeves and bodice after the Tudor style.
 A fad for lace which matches the gown in color is one of the eccentrici- ties of the hour. I hardly think it a pretty idea; still some of the heavy yak laces take to the dye very success fully. Another "faddy' idea is that the frock must match ones mood. Our notions of moods are so varied that black for the dumps and red when one is feeling particularly gay are the only general rule for guide.
 Simple little tricks of the needle con- tinue to play a very pretty part in blouses and frocks-for example, in- stead of lace yoke crepe de chine blouse will have the openwork effect contrived by coarse silk veining-really herringbone stitch-with the rouleaux twirled into all kinds of decorative ideas.
 I was told the other day that dain- ty. fine woolen canvas is the coming material for shirt waists. The shops, I trust, will be able to get skirt lengths, as can imagine very nice spring shirt waist dresses being made from this canvas. Sufficient" though, unto the day." for Dame Fashion will certainly look out for her own in the coming ma terials. CATHERINE TALBOT.
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-24
Controlling Children.

Bursts of passion in a little child must be met by steady, gentle firmness on the mothers side. Loud outcries should be hushed not by angry words. but by a grave quietness of voice and speech, which helps to repress them by mere force of contrast.
 Passionate gestures, such as blows, kicks and drumming with the heels upon the floor should be prevented by physical force if necessary. Above all, the thing coveted, if it causes the child to fly into rage as the readiest means of obtaining it, should never be grant ed. AS the child grows older and can be reasoned with he or she should be taught to avoid the beginnings of wrath, to struggle against irritability, and not to give way to it in words when it rises in the mind.
 Quick tempered children often have generous, lovable natures, easily inf1u- enced for good. A wish to please an- other and to do what is right for it's own sake may be made strong enough to close the lips against the torrent of angry words that rushes to them and so help them to victory. Each effort at self conquest makes the next one easier.
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-24
Nice Ways to
 Serve Oysters
~HE oyster season is now in full
 swing. The suppers after the the-

THE oyster season is now in full
 swing. The suppers after the the-
 ater, which are now so much in vogue, generally consist of dish of oysters-cooked or raw-kidneys la Montpensier and fruit. When the oysters are cooked, the favorite manner of preparing them is to remove them from their own shell and place them in a larger one, with a piece of butter covered with breadcrumbs and grated parmesan cheese. They are heated in the oven and served steaming hot. Some people add chopped mushrooms.
 Roasted Oysters.-Scrub the shells, then place them, the deep shell down, either on a griddle over the fire or in a hot oven. As soon as the shells open well they are ready Remove the top shell carefully so as not to waste the liuuor and serve at once with tiny pat of butter on each.
 Creamed oysters are incest. Scala the oysters in their own liquor and beard and chop them coarsely. For each cupful of minced oysters allow a cupful of thick cream sauce made thus: Melt a tablespoonful of butter, then stir in a tablespoonful of sifted flour, and when this is thoroughly blended. but not colored, pour in slowly gill of oyster liquor and gill of cream or new milk, with 8 seasoning of white pepper and salt. When this is quite smooth and thick, lay in the oysters and when thoroughly hot serve on souares of hot toast.
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-24

A YE are getting later and later
 every year about putting our
 MN houses into their winter
 " W garb.- A few seasons ago
 the first chilly days would bring out the heavy curtains and warm toned furniture coverings from their summer retirement. But now we are often in the middle of January before we think of rearranging the home. Therefore the many dilatory house. wives will hail with joy the announce ment that there are at last some real novelties in draperies, and one now has 6 choice of many beautiful and artis- tically correct materials. The winter room should be suggestive of the lux ury of fireSide cheer, with the hearth place for it's center, bright, warm col ors being the dominant note, colors which will focus every ray of wintry sunshine. It is surprising how the most elementary changes in a scheme will alter the whole character of room. For instance, copper red for rose pink, orange for primrose, bronze green for soft blue, work magical transformation from summer to winter environment. @g4
 Nothing gives cozier or more at- tractive appearance to ali apartment than handsome and appropriately draped doors and windows. A new and extremely beautiful fabric for decora- tive purposes and door draperies espe- cially has recently been imported. It is called meronac velvet, and it's crea- tion is of considerable importance to the decorative possibilities of the class of textiles to which it belongs. This beautiful velours and it's many adapta- tions are the work of an artistic Eng lishwoman's brain. She has borrowed a little from the bookbinder's art in the working out of her charming de- signs. The process to which this mero- mac velvet owes it's loveliness may be described as species of hand tooling on velvet whereby exquisite effects of light and shade are produced on it's surface. To the uninitiated the word ''tooling'' is an unknown quantity, but after consulting reliable authority we find that it is decoration applied to leather or other materials by means of stamps and other metallic tools, which are applied hot, producing impressed patterns upon the surface" In the new English designs the effect is most ly worked out in gold leaf, which shades to copper and even green and art red tones. The whole effect is fas- cinatingly beautiful
 The variations of which this meronac factory characteristic. It may be used merely as a border or worked up into all over patterns 'on a portiere. A beautiful drapery is made of dull rose meronac velours having an adaptation
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-24

to make thin paste of salad oil and salt. Leave it on the mark or ring for an hour Then polish with a dry cloth, and the mark will have disappeared.
 To make chocolate waters take one cupful of granulated sugar, one cupful of butter, one egg, one cupful of grated chocolate, one teaspoonful of vanilla extract and sifted flour to make stiff about one and a half cupfuls Roll very thin, cut with a little square cut ter and bake very quickly.
 Egg and claret for an invalid is pre- pared thus: Beat the whites and yoll1s of two eggs separately, mix, also sepa-
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-24

of silk or some heavy material. A cur tain especially thought out by the originator of the art is superb in cream meronac applied with an outline of gold thread to a soft, faded tone of blue silk shot with gold gleamings. This grace full motif formed the border of the hanging.
 Fooled meronac should be doubly vel comed by the woman who dotes on cushions and has absolutely exhausted all her resources on the downy com forts. A stunning pillow which any drawing room will be proud to own is formed of a. huge butterfly of red velvet lighting upon a\ ground of green silk. Charming, too, are the screen panels made of ivory moire with fooled clus- ters of La France roses. Of course it takes woman of decided artistic abil- ity to pick up alone this tooling on meronac velvet, but as the fad for the work increases. as it certainly promises
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-24

street wear. Such extrava gances should be relegated entirely to those who are fortunate enough to own car riages. On the other hand, at a smart ''at home or reception there is noth- ing handsomer than a white frock, pro- vided it is toned down with mink or sable. -.
 I saw a beautiful frock composed of cream colored crochet oyer finely plait- ed crepe de chine in a deep shade of ivory. The bodice seemed to be an in- ner blouse of accordion plaited crepe de chine, with a loose hanging sack of the coarse crochet lace and wide band of cream panne. The only color introduced was in large cluster of parma violets and dark red roSes-real ones, by the way-which never seem out of place.
 Two lovely voile toilets worn at Nice
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-24
A New 1den For Cloth Gowns.

Perhaps the newest idea of the mo- ment is to have cloth gowns yelled with chiffon and trimmed with fur. For ex- ample, soft brown with bluish bloom on it yelled with chiffon the ex- act color of the moleskin which trimmed it, the upper skirt of diapha- nous material gathered to fit closely to the hips and then springing away and widening out at the feet, finished off with strappings of the fur. the bodice softly draped with a picturesque collar of ecru lace and velvet, the bolero en- tirely of moleskin most charmingly fashioned. with huff to match. '
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-24

The second model was in dove col ored silk voile over a shot mauve taf- feta. The guipure collar, edged with a narrow band of fur, opened in front over white velvet plastron strapped by bands of black velvet ribbon. A narrow plating of voile fashioned in bolero effect displayed the blouse of mauve taffeta beneath. The plaited skirt was broken on either side by inlet incrustations of embroidery and gui- pure with mauve taffeta ruchings. A long, loose wrap lined with ermine and mousseline plisse completed a becom- ing ensemble.
 John Chinaman is exercising pow erful influence on western peoples. We are borrowing his coat for our cloaks and his sleeve bands for the decoration of our boudoirs, and, to cap the climax,
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-24

a harmonizing color. An interlining of canton flannel gives weight and enables the drapery to fall in heavy, graceful folds Let the flannel lining be several inches shorter than the outside fabric and loose at the bottom. This avoids the puckery appearance which pro- claims the homemade affair. A fine cream sateen lining is almost as good as silk.
 Jaspe ve1vets, linen plush and kin dred fabrics ranks high as ever in the category of winter draperies, especially when made up with borders of dull gold furniture lace or braid, fashion which is greatly in favor.
 One other novelty must be described the Arabian lace curtain trimmings made with shaped corners to form a complete border. The rich, heavy tex ture of the lace, with it's warm ecru tint, makes an admirable contrast to the plain colored materials used, such as moire or the new satin de reine.
 ELIZABETH SCOTT RAYMOND.
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-24

en hours a day. Some women support families on this sum, which for a city is pitifully small
 Afternoon street gowns in pale shades of cloth trimmed with lace and in- crustations of fur are very popular with those who can afford them.
 Sir Philip Burne-Jones thinks Amer ican women cannot possibly be so holy as they seem. Other foreigners have found American women so frank and unprudish in manner that they have misjudged us altogether and said our girls and women must really be any, thing but holy. So it goes. Tha Ansar-
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-24

ican girl cannot suit everybody's ideas of propriety; therefore she is wise to discard European notions and live up only to her own sense of propriety. It will guide her right every time.
 Whalebone may be easily cut if it be laid for few minutes in hot water.
 In the matter of keeping clean public school houses of the large cities it has been found that women do better work than men and get less pay for it. Men will shirk the work of cleaning and dusting; women do not
 There is a lightweight trimming called sequin trimming which resembles
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-24

design is very deep at the bottom and at the sides near the front of the hang ing, but it gradually narrows up to nothing at the top. It is tue last cry now to have the heavy lace reach about three-quarters down the window length. The style is an awkward one; still we must have something different even if it is quite the ugliest thing possible
 Can you imagine a really handsome portiere being made of ten cent denim It has been most successfully accom- plished by woman not particularly blessed with skillful fingers. The only difficulty lies in getting a perfectly
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-24

possesses admirable wearing qualities. The gauges and crepe de chimes which will probably be offered during the sales this month at about half the usu- al price are admirable for small dinner and dancing gowns. If girl has good maid, a graceful figure, wears the right corset and knows how to put her clothes on, she ought to be able to make charming little frocks at home at a small cost.
 Baby bodices are very becoming and easy to construct. They look we'll only on young girls, but the pity of it is that every girl thinks she is young. They depend chiefly for their success upon a piece of good lace and a prop erly adjusted waistband or sash, but they must be put on with care and over properly adjusted corsets. Speak ing of the latter, the corset of today seeras to consist of nothing but a few strands of ribbon. I assure you there is more than meets the eye, and never was this garment more difficult to make. There are certain things which every woman who wishes to be we'll dressed should spend a certain amount of time on-namely, her corsets. head
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-24

rately, with two small glassfuls of clar- ct or sherry. Eggs are more easily di- gested in this way than when the whites and yolks. are beaten together, and the difference in the taste of the two drinks will be appreciated by an in- valid. .%"
 Dish towels should be washed out in warm suds, rinsed and dried after each dish washing, and once week they should go into the laundry.
 In New York city it has been found that the average wage of the woman scrubber and housecleaner is from $40 to $50 a month and that she works elav-
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-24

A lump of camphor should be kept in the plate chest, for it will render the stored away silver less liable to tar nish
 monia and water rather than with soap and water Yellow holly is a new decorative plant.
 For chapped lips take three teaspoon fuls of quince seeds, add them to half q pint of water. Boil down to quar- ter eS psnt. then add two ounces of
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-24

These must be at least two inches in depth running across the entire width of the curtain. Paint these figures in primary shades in water colors. You will probably find that the paints at first ~leave little impression, the colors sinking imperceptibly into the denim; i;
 but, without a thought of being slangy, the only thing to do is to rub it in until the right depth of tone is reached.
 When this drapery is lined with red denim and bordered by fringe of old fashioned macrame, the effect is simply stunning. It goes without saying that a curtain of this description is only ap-
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-24

glycerin and scent with few drops of any preferred perfume. This prepara- tion is also very good for chapped hands. .s
 To clean white silk ties rub them over with French chalk and afterward hold to the fire. The heat will cause the chalk to absorb the grease, and a shak- ing or brushing will render the tie quite clean.
 The best way to remove marks and rings made by hot water jugs, etc. be- ing put upon polished trays or tables is
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-24

jet, but is nothing like so heavy. It is used instead of jet
 Wet umbrellas should never be left open to dry. as the silk stretches while damp and is liable to split. The right method is to half close wet umbrella and stand it handle downward to drain.
 To make strong buttonholes for chil- dren's clothes lay piece of cord round the cut and work the buttonhole over that.
 < Spangled jet and black lace make a handsome combination for evening and dinner gowns. The jet gown is now fashionable, but awfully heavy.
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-24

propriate for den or smoking room. The idea is prevalent that heavy cur tains are difficult for the novice to make. On the contrary, they are ex- ceedingly simple if little common sense is brought to bear on the subject. The essential point is to have long table on which to stretch the material. If any kind Of applique design is to be used not of the tooling variety, it should be stenciled and then laid on the place desired with photographers paste. When perfectly dry, the edges of the design are couched with gold or cord of
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-24
Care of Lamp wiclks.

If a lamp wick sticks or will not move up and down easily, draw one or two of the threads from one side. In ex- tinguishing the flame of lamp never blow straight down upon it, but across it. The wick should first be turned far down. Again, when trimming the wick do not cut off the brown finder, as it helps in relighting. Merely rub a cloth along it to remove any loose bits.
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-24
Chinese Fans.

The fan is distinctly national insti- tuition of the Chinese, but it is almost as difficult to trace back the dake when it was introduced into the country as 1t is to ascertain exactly when China first enjoyed the morning light of her pecul- far yet wondrous civilization. One au- thority states that the Emperor Hsien Yuan. who ascended the throne about 27O0 B. C., was the monarch responsible for the introduction of, the fan into China.
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-24

the mandarin hat is one of the most fashionable forms. A mandarin pla- teau carried out in black silk beaver, with black and white ostrich feathers curling over the brirn, is very chic.
 The stylish dresses of the moment are characterized by motifs of exqui- site embroidery, the designs being bor- rowed from all parts of the world. The pretty, dainty Louis XIV. and XVII. effects, the Russian cross-stitch, the Bulgarian, Persian and Japanese
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-24

were as follows: The first was of bis cult colored cloth. The blouse corsage beneath the double shoulder cape was strapped with mordore ribbon velvet. The skirt, gathered on either side from hip empiecement. was caught to- gether at intervals by applique mordore chenille embroidery. A mousseline plaited boa fringed with a narrow band of mink fur finished by long ribbon ends, was a pretty complement to a stunning toilet f+ r~F'> 7 1'' h'
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-24

signs, looking better in them than many women do in French model frock.
 White will be just as popular on the Riviera as it has been in Paris. I do not advise the wearing of white simply because it is fashionable. It is expen- sive and in great many cases unbe coming. If it is beautifully carried out and suited to the wearer, it is charming; otherwise white hats and coats are hardly the thing to do service for
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-24
rhe Guest Room.

In preparing a room for guest if only for a few days, do not neglect to place a variety of books at his disposal. If there is no bookshelf in the room, books and magazines should be placed on a low table near the window. Many a visitor has gone through tortured. sleepless nights in strange house. with not line of reading matter to be got at.
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-24
Finished Faces.

A woman's flushed face is generally caused either by tight lacing or by in- digestion. Drink cocoa instead of tea, avoid rich, indigestible foods and wear corsets quite loose. Red hands and arms too, are often due to tight lacing and in some cases to tight sleeves.
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-24

to do. classes will be formed to teach the new cult.
 Another new design in the liberty tapestries is the Belvoir. In it's varied harmonies of color it fills long felt need for a material of moderate price
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-24
The Flounce Growing Tn Importance

Flounces are growing in fussiness and importance day by day, especially where evening exigencies are concerned. A charming creation suitable to a fair debutante was arranged in delicate pink chiffon, it's trained skirt decked with three froufrou fiounces, each one whereof was stitched with narrow rib bon and lace. The bebe bodice was fin ished by pointed pelerine of the chif- fon,. dotted with dimante and hemmed lace, and bore elbow sleeves with hand kerchief wing frills at their base.
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-24
Some New Work For the Energetic and SkiEul Housewf

of an old Italian scroll design entirely carried out in tooling a study of strong, yet delicate, line drawing on perfect ly plain background. The all over ef- fects are good, but the best results are from applied fooled velvet on a ground
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-24

simply because 1t is so useful for a hundred and one occasions. It always looks smart, and in it one never ap- pears overdressed. Chiffon voiIe is the new fabric for ball gowns and will be much used this year. It has the airy, fairy appearance of chiffon and yet
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-24

gear and boots. Once she has these inn portant accessories correct she will find it wonderfully easy to appear well dressed. It was quite another matter in the days of tightly boned bodices, but now a graceful and elegant figure can wear the simplest stuffs and de-
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-24

row canvas transparency Attached to this are round buttors making a most decorative scheme. The flat fur stole of magnificent Russian sable is regally lined with ermine. Toque and huff are en suite, the former trimmed with beautiful osprey. The toque is of the long, flat shape which is considered the dernier cri just now in Paris.