Omaha daily bee., 1903-03-22
Fair Fingers Decorating the summer
waist and bodice.

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waist and bodice.
NEW YORK, March 2O.-The demand for
shirt waists is greater than ever, and,
since the requirements Of fashion call for
more dressiness in this direction, some OF
the models are marvels Of handiwork.
The strictly plain shirt waist Of previous
seasons is something scarcely to be found.
When Il is encountered It has an old
fashioned air when compared TO its more
elaborate sisters Even the cheviot waists
are lace and embroidery trimmed, and
everywhere, II they hope to shine in the
chic world, they must show the most care
full finish.
1t is not sufficient that the wash waist
displays elaborate trimmings and a new
cut. Fine hand sewing must accomplish
It, the stun being shrunk before making.
and the heavy embroideries stand out with
a telling beauty.
Soft finished stuffs, such as cheviots,
pongees and ooarsely woven linens, are
the textures most employed for these dash
ing waists, and s%potless white is still pre-
ferred 10 color. Into the linens the rough
antique laces, now so much admired, are
inserted, forming many sorts Of novel
Jokes, stocks and cuffs. Bias border edges
Of the linen, between rows OF fagotting,
Join the laces neatly TO the shirt stun.
and every art is employed to create unique
effects. .f
The heavy butcher linens are truly
superb with the raised embroiderles used
on them. The needlework is done in course
threads and invariably in the same color.
There are linen waists with contracting
embroideries, but these are not styles ap-
proved by the modish world.
On the other hand. the bodice which lays
no claim to washing virtues may indulge in
many freaks OF color, and INCLUDE several
varieties of trimming in its decoration.
No garment Alls so many requirements as
the odd bodice. and for small Leutan func-
tions it II invaluable. Three with a single
skirt will accomplish as many changes Of
costume, and the toilette be made 20 ex-
press something either elaborate or simple.
Smart BOdices.
A trio Of smart bodices lately turned
out display charming possibilities OF vari-
alton of costume. Made for house, visit
ing and lecture wear. all combine novel
effects with the latest materials.
Perhaps the p~rettiest Of the three is Of
ivory wool crash and is for informal din
ner wear. The model, which fastens at the
back, is very loose in effect. the bodice
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gathers. A deep pointed yoke. with
stitched bands Of the crash severely covers
the shoulders, close sleeve caps increasing
the dropping look. The high stock Is un-
lined and is In alternate bands CT the crash
and fagotting, the latter of which is made
OF ivory satin bebe ribbon. The deep
founoes of the sleeves are also edged with
this.
White cloth is the material of the second
bodice. The blouse. fantastfcally cut out
at the neck, hangs loose over a yoke, deep.
est at the. front, and incrusted with Cluny
lace in an ivory tint. Suspender bands OF
black ~taffeta, ive inches in width, like
wise show odd insertions Of this rich lace,
and two square pieces widen them at the
shoulders with an epaulette eject. The
sleeves, puffed into narrow Gun bands, are
OF the plain cloth.
Black velvet, with trimmings Of white
silk embroidered with yellow. ara the ma
terials OF the third waist, whUset fastening
is under the left arm. The worked silk
forms a narrow shoulder collar, which, rum
ming down each side OF the stock, finishes
with narrow bands that button 1t to the
bodice. The sleeves show the close upper
portion which distinguishes all arm cover.
ings at present. Thu puffs of the lower
part. beginning Just above the elbow, are
gathered into pointed cuffs Ct The cmbroid-
cred silk, which also composes the stock.
Fashionable sleeves.
A book might be written on the charms
and complications Of the fashionable sleeve
alone. No two are alike. II one seems
lovely, the next one appears more so. One
point is insisted upon, and that is that they
all lie as fatty as possible at the top. For
the rest, the bottoms may bulge II trans
parent puffs, which seem monstrously big
by comparison with this close section; or
they may flow loosely, or simply simulate
these effects with some clever device.
The modish collar band Is also a thing OF
many fancies, with the absolute require
ment alone hat Il fit the throat very
tightly. To facilitate this snugness few
stocks are now lined, and the bishop stolo5
of their little turnovers are narrower and
longer than ever.
The numerous changes for n~eatness re-
qulred by such styles dishearten the woman
OF modest means for these little collars In
linen cost anywhere from % cents TO 81
apiece. Those OF embroidered hatiste or
lace are even dearer, though moderate skill
with the needle can fashion the lace sort
at home. The fad inspires dainty employ
ment for idle fingers, and when enc stops
to consider how much Is gained by pretty
and stylish details, It seems surprising that
more Of us do not take to the gentle art
OF stitchery.
white Gowns.
The gowns which smart women are wear
Ing at this moment display. in many cases
a delicate sentiment for the holiness of the
season. For the informal dinner which
occur during the Lsnten period white cloth
is a material which lends itself 20 botA
suitable and elegant effects, Many such
are now being seen, rich lace trim.
mings giving them a touch Of fashionable
worldliness and adding in every case, tc
becomingness.
One exquisite toilette Of white cloth dis,
plays a skirt border and bodice trimmings
OF Irish lace in what is called Chinese fret
work. The pattern Of the la2s mounts and