Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-02-28
FROM AGRA TO DELHI
"a "a
Funny Scenes Witnessed
About the Station.
LIFE IN THE CAMP
BUT EVERYBODY EASILY BECAME
ACQUAINTED.
Watching the Water Sprinklers Set
Ting the Dust-The Long In
dian Names.
Wrltten for rhe Exening Star.

written IOF Line Evening otar.
The five-hours journey from Agra to
Delhi on the 18th Of December was one OF
great discomfort, inasmuch as the carriage
in which we, after waiting an hour at the
Agra station, succeeded in getting three
seats, was soon tightly packed with later
arrivals, each of whom brought as much
luggage as he could find room for, In order
to prevent trouble about getting 1t out Of
the vans later on. Such a picture as that
carriage presented! Ten men and women,
five on each seat, and one on the arm Of
each seat; luggage filing the dressing room
SO full that the door had to remain open,
even with the wash basin made use of to
hold a tin helmet case; both of the carriage
doors securely damned with luggage, which
was piled up to the roof, and which ex-
tended on under each seat, and on which
we rested our feet 80 that our knees nearly
touched our chins! Huge bundles Of bed
ding, six feet in length, wrapped in Agra
carpets OF waterproof, cloth or curtains to
be used in the tents; tin trunks for furs,
helmet cases, large tin basins with leather
covers and ten large cane lunch or tea bas-
kets; cabin trunks on end, hat boxes, golf
sticks, uniform cases, and, in fact, bundles
and boxes Of every description.
Our last view Of the Agra station was a
morning, the natives left behind, who were
either encamped there waiting for their
trains or waiting to meet their friends
whose train might appear in one hour or
possibly not for six or seven hours, 1t mat
tered little to them. were busily engaged in
their morning toilets. One man in the hands
OF native barber leaned forward while the
gentleman rubbed oil vigorously through his
dark locks; another was just removing his
undermost garment preparatory to a morn
ing shower bath, and third, having had a
pail of water thrown over him, was running
along the platform, dripping as he went,
seeking spot where the sun might dry his
fine bronze shoulders. OF all beings they
seemed to us the most unconscious!
The Usual Scramble.
The train being very long indeed our car
riage, when we finally arrived at Delhi,
was drawn up at some distance from the
station, and then came ascramble to get all
the luggage out. 1t was handed or pushed
out through the windows until the door
could be opened. and then dumped helter-
SHELTER out on the platform where each one
picked out his belongings and they were
piled up together. While two of us were
busly engaged in directing our bearers, or
keeping an eye on the -asteunded and rather
needless ayahs the man Of the party strobe
off to find bullock carts for our luggage
and such was the demand for them that he
did not return for fully twenty minutes
Fortunately, the supply Of coolies, low-caste
natives swathed in dirty white cotton, was
as 1t always is, equal to the demand, and a
moment after his return a line of twelve
coolies started forth with our forty trunks
boxes and bundles ON. their heads or in
their hands. R., the tall and testy man Of
the party, brought up the rear.
Along" the crowded Platform we wound
our difficult way, and through the huge
station, decorated with fragrant leaves,
flags and paper flowers, ready for the state
a,,yr do lot av,I I1oI
flowing with the newly arrived, and the
usual permanent supply Of screaming, ges-
ticulating natives. We at last succeeded
in pushing our way out into the open, and
there found a most interesting scene. The
road for miles, 1T seemed, was filed with
carriages, carts and vehicles of every kind.
In front was drawn up the gorgeous equi-
page of a maharajah, a high-sWung car
riage lined with gold embroidered crimson
velvet, the coachman, footman and sails in
yellow and red, four horses and guard Of
fourteen mounted lancers in the same col
ors, two in front and twelve behind the
carriage. Back of them stood a huge
wagon, drawn by two camels. each Of
which had a mahout who guided him by
the rein passed through his nostrils. A
long line Of rough carts drawn by sturdy
white bullocks was drawn up at the other
side of the road and private carriages Of
all descriptions came and went, the sails
running along by the horses heads cloth
or dust brush Of long horse hair in the
hand to brush away the flies. While we
were waiting for our things to be slowed
away in the deep carts, we heard In the
distance the deep heather sounding jangle
of two bells and soon after my lord. the
elephant, marched slowly by covered with
gold embroidered cloth. his mahout very
gorgeous as he sat just back Of his ears
the elephant goad in one of his brown
hands. Splendid beasts that they are!
They arouse ones deepest interest for the
SLY look Of small eyes which seem to
twinkle wi n secret amusement combined
with the tremendously wise expression OF
his huge countenance as II the wisdom OF
the ages were an open secret to them nils
one with wonder and delight. Flapping his
he marched. his bells, which hang on either
side, form narrow band thrown over his
broad back, changing weirdly my lord,
the elephant. passed slowly by and
disappeared In the distance. Soon after
the maharajah's cavalcade swung twink
the fat and wicked little Burmese ponies
champing their bits drew up and we were
driven rapidly to our camp, followed at q
crawling pace by the two bullock carts of
luggage The camp as we approached look
ed, we felt, undeniably dusty. 1t consisted
of a large inquiry tent where all informa-
ton was supposed to be given. dining
tent, with a drawing room tent, prettily
furnished and with two smoky open fire.
places, one at either end, all the papers
ter paper and writing materials, and last
Of all the private tents of the camps. Our
own arrangements were very comfortable
indeed. We had three tents, one for R.,
one for @. and myself and the third we
used as a sitting room. They all had
wooden floors and fireplace, which re-
greet to say usually smoked. The sitting
room contained table and lounging chairs.
tea table and theres.W1re potted plants
here and there: The beg rooms had two