Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1903-05-02
sneoial Correspondence.

I Special Correspondence.
Callao, Peru, March 3, 19O3.--How
b different Is this world-renownod sea
mort, from anything our Imagination
had pictured-how disappointing in one
sense because now showing no trace Of
its fifteenth century youth or the
gamor with which history and tradition
have surrounded it! on the contrary,
1t is the most cosmopolitan, common
place and matter-of-fact sort Of city
we have yet found In South America,
place where English is spoken as much
as Spanish, and where people Of all ma.
tlonalitles have crowded the easy-going
natives to the wall so far as business Is
concerned. Even the correct pronun-
citation OF its name is a surprise TO us,
for whereas we were taught In school to
say Cal-lay-o, 1t should be rendered as
II spelled Cal-yow, with the accent
strong on the last syllable.
Though the harbor is nothing to boast
of, and on our storm-swept northern
coast would be dlgnlaed by no such
name, Il is one of the best on this side
of the southern continent being shell
tered FROM prevailing south winds by
projecting tongue OF land aud the high
bare island of San Lorenzo But the
approach of IL as seen through the Veil
OF mist that always Overhangs both sea
and shore In the early morning, is GER
tainly fine. We arrived about 3 a m.
and drop anchor mile from the beach,
IN fog, which the sailors say Is thick
enough TO cut with knife and is at
tributable TO the condensation of tropi-
cal moisture by the cold currents Of air
sweeping northWard from Antarctic re-
gions. Looming out Of the mist, IN dim
outlines and exaggerated proportions, Is
a spectral forest 81 masts and spars be-
longing 10 sailing vessels from an seas
steamers stOreshps coke hulks and
other phantom craft: while 20 the right,
San Lorenzo lifts 20 the sky a light
house that Is said 20 be more Ornamen-
tai than useful, and directly In front
rise the cheese shaped turrets that top
the famous old castle Of san Felipe,
above whose yellow walls and massive
hattlements the Spanish flag waved for
the last time on this continent To the
left, as through a glass darkly' we
see low shore covered with yellowish
yerdure, and trees pale green for lack
Of rain, rising gradually to the foot
hills Of the Andes The brown heights
teem to stand In close ranks one behind
another each tier mounting higher.
SIN beyond them all and behind a
ctr um Of motonIess clouds, We family
discern the snowy COrdIlera blending
with the blue Of the sky At the base
of those brown hills. only six miles in
land lies the ultima thule Of our
dreams Lima the city OF Kings"
which Pizarro founded Just about $50
years ago
Hardly has the anchor gone over
board before the steamer Is surrounded
by elamorlng crowd Of marneras, or
boatmen, who only await the coming
OF the captain Of tho port to swarm
upon the decks and besiege passengers
with offers Of service In rowing them
and their luggage ashore. but unul his
aufHs, pefiNlssion has been given they
care not come nearer than the law al
lows The aut0crat Of the port always
consults his own convenience about
coming. He may be sleeping late from
last nights revel or chatting with
friends or taking his morning coffee;
20 ""v ro'a no does not permit himself
to be disturbed or hurried howsoever
travellers may rage and impatient sea-
men roear and need not be expected
for an hour or more. Meantime, while
the waiting marineros are wrangln~