The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-04-05

punctually at 8 o'clock instead Of being
met by his hostess clad, as he half hoped
she would be. In a cooks cap and apron,
radiant creature in a pink satin and chiffon
dinner gown and diamond necklaces adj
vanced TO greet him and Immediately LED
the way to the>dining room, where, In ms
bewilderment. he almost expected TO be con-
fronted with an array OF other guests.
Nothing OF the kind was In sight.
The only persons visible were two men
servants standing guard. a. II were. over
a big Flemish sideboard. decorated Tor
the occasion with an array OF chatting dishes,
two small porcelain saucepsns and several
covered dishes. The latter, he soon found
out--for his seat faced the sideboard-
contained ingredients for the dinner yet
to be cooked. The table was loaded with
silver, cut glass. embroidered linen and
flowers, but not a Whit OF anything to stay
as the butler pulled out his chair:
Almost before he had settled himself in
II, though, steam began to pun up from
one Of the chatting dishes before which she
of the pink satin had taken her place. In
quick order fresh tomatoes. cream, butter
and condiments were popped into that
receptacle and manipulated deity with a
big spoon in the hand Of the cook. All OF
a sudden the cook turned and took her
seat opposite him. In jify the contents
OF the chafing dish were In a tireen placed
on the table and the pair were eating
creamed tomato soup, more delicious. az
the guest insisted. than any he had ever
tasted before or since.
Meanwhile the Lamp under chafing dish
No. 2 was lighted, and by the time the soup
had disappeared the vessel was In trim TO
receive its savorv contents-squarps OF
fresh lobster, which had previously been
boiled some good old sherry and the other
ingredients that 60 to make up lobster la
Newburg, that prince OF dishes (as some
think. These. like the soup. were stirred
and tended up to the crucial point by the
hostess, and with no more delay than always
happens between courses the guest, now
really excited. found himself eating
familiar and favorite dish cooked after
fashion that made him, In reckless defiance
OF all rules OF polite dinner etiquette. smack
his Inns and pass over his plate for more.
After that his list doubt concerning the
outcome of the meal vanished. and az he
leaned back contcntedly In his chair wonder
ing II the menu contained many more such
blissful surprises he gazed over the rim OF
his champagne glass at the back OF the
pink satin and the diamond necklace, now
again close to the chatting dish, with a re-.
spect they probably had never received
before and most likely never would again
except under similar circumstances.
Hero u a past mistr IS in the culinary art,
he reflected, even though she does taboo
an apron and every finger b loaded with
gems. The third course required the use
Of two ohafing dishes. In one were put put
fashion, however. that they could scarcely
| be told from the broilcd article-in the other
! tiny spheres OF potato, s, boiled and served
with melted butter and fakes Of parsley.
After that came breast Of capon fried
and served with green peas. and at this
point the chatting dishes went out Of COM
| mission. A green salad, served with a dress.
| ing mixed by the hostess at the table, and
some ices. bon-bons and fruit completed
| the menu. save for the coffee. This last
4 l.. a txTNh A VNF
I siding genius OF the banquet while her
guest, who had never dined more satis-
! factoriiy in his life. pulled away at his
cigar on the other side Of the coffee pot,
| from which post Of vantage II was easy
enough TO ace that the jeweled fingers
| draperies a. unspotted as when in some
| trepidation he first saw them In company
with the chatting dish. Marveling, he
asked his hostess the reason. -.
You See she answered snilinely. y
only did the cooking. not the serving, and
| it Is more particularly during the lattei
| process that an apron comes In handy and
ones fingers may come to grief;
Since that particular man told his story
there has been a lot Of practising over thu
| galore have been given near upper FIFTH
avenue with varying degrees Of success.
| Cooks like poets, some people argue, art
| born, not nade-a statement which
party verified by the fact that despite siren
tious struggles under experienced teacher
| there are clever women In fashionable
| circles who have reluctantly come to TIL
CONCLUSION that this form Of entertainer
must be forever left out Of their socia
Nevertheless. the tete-A-tete chafng dial
dinner Il having a remarkable vogue, ant
the mon cay that in no other role does
hostoss appears quite 40 Interesting, ~
captivating as in that Of cook on such 90
casions. Possibly the women know 1t.