St. Johnsbury Caledonian. [volume] (St. Johnsbury, Vt.) 1867-1919, 1903-05-20
FRO1 PRETORIA TO LONDON. w.
A Lady's Letter from the souihea st Afri-
can Ports. On II oard the ''Kaiser."

can Ports. On II Oard the "Kaiser."
In my last l told how inefficient our
tiny guards were. Indeed, except as they
were of use to direct US back to the ship,
and as their funny chatter and laughter
proved rather amusing, we would better
have dismissed them. However, when
we expressed our wish to 60 to the fort
and used the word "Castello," they
frightened up and led us through gar
den, down dim avenue, and in the dark
ness brought us up at the archway Of
the fort. The guard seemed in doubt
about our appearance, but two gentle
men who came out listened to our appeal
and enquired of an officer in the door
way, who in turn made some enquiry,
and soon mounted guard was sent to
take us over the ancient Notifications.
A huge, massive wall guards the outer
gateway, both from the land and the
sea. The portal has fine stone carving,
and some ancient legend which we could
not discernin thedim light. The entrance
is through wide stone archway, more
than Is feet through. We passed then
into the huge inner court, surrounded by
officers apartments, the Commandments
quarters, the secretary's rooms, and the
soldiers barracks. In some OF herooms,
neat student lamps were lighted, but
throughout the big, dim courtyard only
smoky and ancient paraffine lamps held
sway. Closely following our guide we
went up a wide incline, evidently used by
men, horses, and vehicles, until we
reached the ramparts. There at inter
walls quaint, massive, but somewhat
cumbersome and useless old bronze
cannon were placed, pointing out to sea,
and they were proudly shown out to us
and seemed to be held in high honor,
probably as historical relies, recalling
days of old when they may have been
turned upon some old Corsair, or used
in offence of the slave trade. 1t was a
strange sensation to be in this old fort,
high up above the sea, with the waves
dashing far below against the massive
outer wall, and the faint stars cleaning
now and again through the clouded sky,
and with the sounds of the Portuguese
soldiery below at their barrack supper
in huge room leading from the court,
waited up. We paced up and down the
ramparts, watching the lights on sea
and land, and thinking OF the parr this
tort may have played in days gone by,
until the heavy darkness and the rain sent
us down. After thanking and rewarding
our guide we met our chattering trio of
black boys at the archway, for they con-
veniently skunk out of sight when we
accosted the guard, and by them were
directed to the quay and to our boat.
The next morning, early, we visited the
market and the old church, which is a
structure evidently built in different peri
DDS, and with different chapels and divis-
ions. One seemed open to natives OF
different Municipalities, and one was
evidently the resort of old Portuguese
families, the CoIdovas, San Diegos, Cor
dozas, DeSouzas, and others, who had
tablets erected to commemorate their
memory and other virtues. An old col.
ored verger took us through and showed
us ancient missals and private chapels,
with great courtesy. 1t seemed quiet
and restiul to enter this church, as the
streets are usually so noisy and thronged.
water carts were carrying barrels of
water through the streets drawn bv a
Madagascar OK with it's pitiful looking
hump. Men and women, boys and girls
were neatly sweeping up the streets with
trooms made of palm twigs and putting
the refuse into little hand baskets such
as British workmen use for carving tools.
Girls and women were filling water Jars
and hurrying in all directions. Occa.
sionally an official dressed in white and
with badges and buttons indicating his
rank and position would be drawn by in
ricksha. Although the streets were
neatly kept yet the drainage of the CITY
is bad, and the odors are indescribably
dreadful. Some members of our party
went through the native quarter where
all the houses are low, of one story.
rudely built of coral rock; where the
streets are narrow, and where the
throngs arecomprised of natives of MANY
hues and nationahties. The sultan's
old palace begun in 1860, but probably
improved and enlarged, faces the sea, but
oe was away so we missed seeing him.
Ills usual place of residence is Zanzibar.
but buildings large and substantial must
be ready for him, his suite and his harem.
whenever he chooses to travel. The
I shops of MOzanh;o,,a ora ;,d;ec.xaa4t