The daily morning journal and courier., 1903-05-30

l II4lueE LtSNolS anu ylelulHS d StSdtEf amount of sugar. The proprietors of the Canate haciendas are mostly Eng ! lishmen, and an excellent class of country gentlemen they are, hospitable, upright and much kindeI~Sto their de- pendents than the Peruvians are in clined to be. The buildings on the es- | tates are uniformly large and hand some, and a description of one applies equally well to all the rest. One side of the extensive inner courtyard is de- voted to the trapiche, or sugar mill, the boiling house, refinery and store-rooms; while the other side shelters the own CTS family, in long, lofty and airy apartments, all on the ground floor and extremely well furnished. Adjoining the house is always a chapel, and a resident priest is maintained, whose duty it is to look out for the spiritual welfare of everybody on the estate, from the lord of the manor to the low est dependent.
 Life in these isolated communities is by no means disagreeable. Everybody rises very early, takes a bit of bread and cup of coffee, and goes about his or her especial avocation, the master riding over the fields and the mistress attending to the house affairs. At ten o'clock a. m. breakfast is served; and the meal invariably consists of soup, eggs, poached or fried and garnished with slices of fried banana; various dishes of meat and chocolate. At four o'clock comes dinner-soup, fish, roast, some vegetables, well garnished with ahi, sauce of red peppers, dull cies (sweet meats), wine and coffee. About nine D. m, there is supper-of tea, bread and dulces. Attached to the house is a beautiful garden of fruits and flowers, with stream of water running through it. from which the lesser irrigating ditches are filled. Be- sides fruit bearing trees there are hedges of roses and thickets of gerani- ums, paths bordered by pansies and forget-me-nots, trellises covered with croicest grapes, and arbors shaded with passion vines. Adjoining the gar den is the galpon, or negro quarters, a collection of huts ranged afound cen tral square, the whole surrounded by a high wall.
 A short railway line connects Pisco with the cotton regions of Yea, running southward through the vine-bearing plain and across forty miles of desert. The capital of this department. which is also called Yea, is the largest town between Lima nd Arequipa. It lies in- Ind about twenty miles, separated from the sea by the desert and a range of sandy hills. Half way between Pisco and Yea, the dusty landscape is beau tified by forest of date palms. cover ing an area of several miles. in the midst of which stands deserted haci- enda named Villa-Ocuri. The word is of common Spanish and Quichua origin and means City of Gold" A good many Indian graves are found in this vicinity, each of them containing not only it's cummy, but pottery small idols, spindles and golden ornaments; and the story goes that the ghosts of the dead have driven the usurpers from the estate which occupies the site of their ancient city.
 Just beyond this enchanted wood is the valuable estate of Nacatones, which DCloliSCu tO uCohiI II dkAI- CTS, and was the scene of one of the bloodiest battles In the war for Inde- pendence. Then come vineyards and cotton fields. with hedge-rows of fig trees, jassamine and roses; and then the neat little village which we have dubbed "Yea and Amen" It contains about ten thousand inhabitants and lies in the midst of lovely plain, five or six miles from the foot of the snow topped cordilleras. The adobe houses are built in the prevailing style of the coast, their flat roofs covered with tiles. Peaceful as it looks, bathed in golden sunshine and environed by fruit full fields, there is one ever-present source of terror, viz, the earthquakes, whose frequent visit have left fearful scars upon all the surroundings. In 1745 the older Yea, which stood some six miles farther south, was completely de- stroyed, scarcely one stone being left upon another. In the present town the roof of the cathedral and the walls of one of the churches have fallen in; the churches of San Merced and San Au- gustin are badly cracked; and there is hardly house that has not suffered more or less from the mysterious pow CT that none can withstand
 FANNIE B. WARD.