New-York tribune., 1903-02-01
TE4L SEASON IT HIND.
French Recipes for Cooh1ng-pd'70~S
Dishes-PossibiEties of THIS Meat

Veal is usually in market in abundance pY feo-
ruary / ard continues until summer in excellent
quality and quantity. Unlike beef, veal owes us
savory qualities more TO cook than 10 the herds
|. man The first Anglo-SaNon raisers Of beer reared
meat which was almost equal TO the red deer that
roanled in the forest needed only the slightest
preparation TO be d delicious morsel 10 hungry men
Thr flesh OF the steer OF to-day il doubt superior
for food to ;hat of any animal which the world has
seen has taken centuries Of civilization Tor
7eopla 10 learn how TO cook veal. The French VINO
ire the best cooks in the world. consider this their
favorite meat and il foundation for the
preparation alike Of their brown and white sauces
and for most - these marvellous made over
dixhes which owe their charms TO the skill Of the
French cook and his in seasoning In an
ignorant mans hand veal is. indeed. a faNorless
meat worthy Of ali the anathemas critics from
1.-THE country parson' down TO the present day have
showcred il.
Tf the English speaking people the best beef
in the world. it must .-lso be admitted that the
French eat the best veal and understand perfectly
how prepare it. Beef by itself requires special
seasoning and preparation. while veal must be
thoroughly seasoned carefully Drowned and dressed
with garnishes and sauces innumerable 10 be ac-
ceptsble the palate. it is at its best when the
Young vegetables OF summer, which make the best
Of all garnshes. Ia market in pristine flavor.
All holIsekeepers know that real gravy is the
only gravy that without the special effort
~ The cook. The roast OF veal browns 10 a golden
hue ss beef. mutton any other meat Will not
DR.
eeiztinous consistency of the meat. which becomes
3 golden brown instead of gray when il is cooked
The stock made from veal possesses the same quail
tries A veal stock i white when it is first pre-
pared. Doubling the cooking browns it. and if the
cooking is prolonged il becomes so thickened and
70 rich in color that ii is a glace
4 consomme. the highest achievement in soup
making Is made of beef boiled in veal stock in
place Of water. BY this means is produced a rich
brown soup. with all the flavor and nutritiousness
Of Il
u Is correctly the consummation Of all efforts in
the preparation OF soups broth as strong as
and that lends itself to the haVors OF
ihe various vegeta bes and seasonngs added to il
When this coneomme soup is boiled down TO
thick stock il makes the richest kind of an Espa-
tnole Sa ace or foundation brown sauce Adding
seasoning Of herbs and wine makes it the richest
cf al brown Madeira sauce Such a
sauce without he wine viii keep in ice cold
place long time. Glace is nothing more than
This sauce boiled little longer until it becomes
stiff heavy jelly. II is = beef extract from which
sood bowl Of cousomme may be made by dssoiv-
ing a spoonful bowl OF boiling water. Beef
stock docs not boil TO such a jelly without veal TO
thicken il: and docs not keep any great length
OF time without artificial means
White stock. which is the foundation OF white
sauce or Ve1oute sauce. which s Of the funda-
rnentai of tho French, is also made OF veal.
Ssfer until q good rich stock is obtained or for
six hours, which Is not long enough 10 color % the
not double b, ling TWO different kinds Of meat
8 white Neloute stock IS thlckenes slightly With
-four in proportion OF TWO tablespoonfnls OF -four
~ 4 pint and 4 half Of stock. II II seasoned with
minutes and stirred repeatedly. Then it removed
70 the side OF The fIe where ii IS allowed to sim
rm over il and @ II assumes . The dun yelyetle ,,lis
nature of veloLte or velvet sauce
WHITE STOCK
ore often sees il stated that the American
wife throws away what would supply good soup
&c the family and that by throwing odds and ends
OF meal into 'pot-au-feu' set on tho stove. a
;rooo pot Of soup viii soon result
on the contrary. this is a mistake Good soup
esuuot be made Of odds and ends Some American
families are undoubtedly wasteful as the result
Of inca psbIe cooks but there is not enough meat
likely 10 be wasted in any household 10 provide
sood nourixhing soup for average family. Six
quarts OF white stock from which ordinary soup
can DC made require at least six pounds of shank
of veal and about five cents worth of seasoning
herbs. u IS not extravagant quantity. but no
= AMOUNT OF meat wasted in family can take the
place Of the veal bone properly cooked with sea
sonings a veal shank costs from 30 cents TO 30
cents. according 10 the season, and the part
OF Tho country where IL is purchased
Wash the knckle. cut the meat from the bone,
sd six quarts Of water is perfectly cold Cover
the kettle with airtisht soup digester
the best pot 10 make soup in. II has alright
cover which lifts in the middle and gives vent
which would be sufficient TO blow it on.
As soon the water over the knuckie begins 20
boil add one and 4 heIf carrots as young and ten
der IS csn be secured small spring turnip. if
possible, one large onion or two small ones. three
r.,ot Of parsJev and Us lea yes Let The vegeta-
b1es he thoroughly cleaned. washed and chopped
lerei Simmer AZ III side after adding the veg
"a hles and cook slowly and steadily IN this way
for SIS hours hy the clock. skmming il from time
put oolsn6er over the mouth Of stone jar
F7er1o1e The SOUP from the aoup digester. clipper
r,,l pv diTperful and pour it through the napkin
to pe strained into the stone Jar. Every particle