The daily journal. (Salem, Or.) 1899-1903, 1903-10-01

lellhef sue OF the jacket.
A fiat hat abruptly dented at the
back and trimmend with elegant vel
vet roses completes the costume.
Exclusive ladies' tailors express the
fear that long coats are likely to be
,overdone this season and for this rea
soE they are taxing their ingenuity tc
find something that will Offset the
great demand for an already made
quate supply of the coats. A model
which might prove happy compro
mise suggests both Russian blouse
and Eton jacket II is close fitting
and has a buttoned Eton that falls
over a supported girdle OF velvet. Be.
low the girdle the inevitable hip
Hounce appears, but instead Of being
plain at the top with ripples lower
down, all of the fullness is taken up
in a wide plat at the back, with two
narrow plalts on either side. Depend
ing from the belt are ends of the vel
vet finished with silk fringe. This
design is seen in several smart autumn
costumes and it is hard to find any.
thing that combines novelty and beau.
ty more effectively.
Hip-yokes of lace continue fash.
ionable feature of fall dresses, sspec-
tally those intended for at.home wear.
A chic putty color French frock. has
the skirt made with yoke Of lace
over the hips, the lace extending
down the front with narrow tucklngs
below running straight down to a deep
gathered hounco The whole falls very
full and long over the feet with a
sweeping train at the hack.
The bodice is also tucked and has
the lace around the neck and across
the sleeves, which are gathered full
around the top, flowing below the el.
bow. There are cuffs OF lace and a
crushed white silk sash encircling the
waist and hanging in long ends over
the skirt at the back. While the gen.
eral outline Of smart sleeves continues
full, there is unlimited variety in
cuffs, which really make or mar a
gown, one might say. There is no par
ticular design which one can recon-
mend as being more CONNIE II faut
than another; all seem to combine the
ideas and all the different eras in the
history Of dress and are indeed glow
ing tributes to the ingenuity OF tn,
sartorlal artist
Many Of tne new street dresses
show a trimming that is novel and
something one does not often see
useful. II is an ample pocket stitche,
a few inches below the wnistline jus
about where handbag would de
pend from its fastening at the belt
In fact the pocket obviates the neces
sity of wearing the bag to which 81
many women object The pocket II
oftentimes mS lie OF leather to mattel
the color of the gown and has a littl,
contrivance inside into which valu
ables may be dropped and carrie,
with aobsolute safety. Buttons tha
fasten with a patent snap come fol
the purpose of making the pocket Sc
cure. The gown which shows thil
new pocket is designed OF a peculiar
shade of ladies' cloth that is neithe
light nor dark The skirt is circular
stitched with folds OF the same ma
terials and trimmed with buttons o
the same shade. The surplice blous
waist opens over a point of de pari
lace yoke and there are fun bishol
sleeves with cuffs of silk and lace
For evening gowns the shops are OF
fering luxurious combinations OF sill
and velvet and a delicious new variet,
OF panne known as panne lousine
Extremists say that II was designed
especially for the latest American
lduchess-to-be; whether this be true o
not il is certain that a richer materl
al would be hard 10 find The fabri,
is so exquisite and decorative that I
can carry little in the way OF embel
lishment. II lends itself admirabl!
to princesse outlines and the addition
of few folds OF rich lace around th'
decollete corsage are all that is re
Iquired in the way OF trimming.
The new shade OF green known a
mignonette goes very prettily with th'
seasons laces and embrolderies. /
probably shows TO best advantage II
voile. then etamine next. A desigI
exhibited at one Of the fall opening
has a box plated skirt and betweeI
the plaits are tiny crOsswise tucks
these being placed in groups not verl