Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-11-14
THE MATINEE GIRL
The Pretty Things in the
Shops All Ready.
SEPARATE -BQDICES
MORE ELABORATE NOW THAN
EVER BEFORE.
Fancy or Brocaded Silks May Be
Made on Simpler
Lines.
SEPARATE -B0DICES

Written for The Evening Star by Harriet Hawley.
. A well-known Partisan modiste has an
nounced this season that she makes spe-
ciatly of dress waists. 1t Is conclusive
proof that in spite of predictions to the
contrary, the separate blouse continues to
hold much OF it's old-time popularity. In
deed there are many occasions where the
blouse is almost a necessity. At the matt
nee and the afternoon card party 1t Will
hold it's own against all rivals.
The tailor-made girl insists on the sepa-
rate blouse. For shopping and travelling she
wears the simplest of shirt waists, but for
more elaborate functions she insists on
dress waists The modstes are putting
forth their best efforts to meet her de-
mands.
The separate waists are more elaborate
than ever before, although their quiet ele-
gance is not so striking as the rufiles and
furbelows which once adorned the dress
waists More costly fabrics are used-hand-
painted and embroidered chiHons, brocaded
silks that stand alone, and cobWebby films
of lace
Creme de chine is extremely fashionable
for dress waists 1t lends itself readily to
the fine shirrings and cordlngs winch are
now en- regle, and has sheen winch many
women prefer to that of smooth finish silk.
A dainty theater blouse is of white crepe
de chine, trimmed with square medalllons or
honitOn insertion. White is the most fash
ionable color for blouses, although an oc-
casional pastel shade prevents monotony:
This white blouse has long shoulders and
somewhat of a round yoke effect produced
by the honitOn medalliOns. They are APP
plied obliuuely down the front to. within
six inches of the waist line. and follow the
French curve which the waist displays.
The sleeves are tucked to the elbows, ana
have the circular founces which are fea-
~ CT
They are edged effectively with the medal
lions.
Long Shoulders.
This blouse in common with most of the
dress waists. is fastened down the back.
The new style of NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS. across
the bust to give the longshoulder Effects
interfered with if the waist is closed down
the front. The fastening down the back is
sometimes made with invisible. hooks and
eyes, but tiny pearl or SILK crocheted put-
tons are even more Fashionable.
The sleeves of the new dress. waists de-
serve an article all to themselves. AS one
woman of fashion remarked: The only
distinctive feature of most of the new
waists is the sleeves. Otherwise they are
all alike as two peas.
In the main, she is right. The smart wo-
man must depend on sleeve arrangements
as an outlet for her taste and originality.
There are bell sleeves with under puI1S OF
lace or chiffon, sweeping angel sleeves and
bouftant sleeves with long and slender CUFFS
This latter style is perhaps the more feasl-
Die for daytime wear. The big puffs are far
enough from the hand to prevent unwieldi-
reSs while the deep cuffs accentuate the
curves of a pretty arm. In most cases these
bouffant sleeves are tight-htdng above the
elbow and thence widen suddenly to re-
markable proportions. The tight-fitting eff
feet above the elbow is often obtained by
a deep sleeve cap, which may be continual
ton of the trimming across the blouse
front.
Deep Sleeve Caps.
II have to have extra, dressing room
maid on my reception days now" said
fashionable woman recently. THE long
shoulder effects and tignt-fitting sleeve caps
on the new gowns will not permit my
guests to raise their arms above their heads
even to rearrange a stray lock of hair
The same thing is true of the separate
waists but it is a style that is very be-
coming to the girl with good broad pair
of shoulders.
Pastel blue is a new and fashionable
color. Silk in that shade Is made up into an
attractive waist which will redeem the Sc
verify of the tailored skirt with which it Is
worn 1t has a shallow rounded yoke of
folds of the six Joined by fagoting, and the
low crush collar is made in the same fash
ion. Below the yoke runs a fve-inch band
of cord shirrings, bordered by three tiny
lace ruchings. This band is continued over
big puff below the elbow falling over deep
cuffs The cuff itself is ornamented with a
five-inch band of the cord Shirrings, and
with equal width of lace ruchings. The
effect is extremely dainty. The deep cuffs
are of the cord shirrings trimmed with
medallions of Maltese lace.
Ruchings and Medallions.
The same medallions are used cross
the pouch of the blouse front. This has
90
side the bust below the cord shirrings,
while in front it is simply gathered. Lace
ruchings are used to encircle the lace me-
dallions, thus increasing the handwork re-
CURED by this apparently simple but
really Ella crate blouse.
Lace ruchings~ are a favorite trimming
for all the silk blouses 1t is a relief
after the rather coarse laces which found
favor during the summer months. 1t shows
the Valenciennes and the finer mesh laces
are slowly coming back into fHvor.
Fagoting is much used and is being
put to new and attractive uses. Where
once it was sufficient as a joining for
straight bands applied either vertically or
horizontally, it now forms part of elaborate
spider webs and intricate serpentine de-
signs.
A pretty silk in a blue shade is COM
bined with fagoting and ecru lace medal
lions in grape design. The collar and
shallow square yoke are of fagoting and
silk bands. Below this come crescents of
fagoting and lands, alternating with the
applied lace medallions. The yoke is con-
tinued to form the sleeve cap, similarly
trimmed with crescents and lace medallions.
The sleeve itself is of the silk deliberately
corded. 1t widens gradually into a puff
above the deep cuff. As is the case with
many of the sleeves the lower part of
the puff is trimmed with wide fagoting,
garnished with. the lace medallions. The
cuff is also of the fagoting and the silk
bands are ornamented with French knots
worked in black silk. The same hand
work adorns the collar The blouse front is
corded in the same fashion as the sleeve,
and has trimming of fagotng and lace
medallions down the left side a.
Brocades Are Back Again
Brocade silks are back in favor. Indeed,
lowered patterns are obtaining even among
the velvets. Some of the patterns bark
back to the days Of our grandmothers
but have lost none of their freshness
through the lapsing years
Waists of these lowered silks are gen.
orally made along simple lines which will
best display the beauty of the material
1t would take but little to bring about the
crime of Recommendation, so in these
doubtful cases the wise woman has her
1 "a.