The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-09-06
NECROMANCER or THE KITCHEN.
A Wonder for Making Much Out OF Little
Is the Cheap Restaurant Cook.

visit to the kitchen of one Of the cheap
restaurants, say to one OF the plain
American variety as sample, discloses
how much the everyday Yankee restaurant
cook can bring out OF little. A look az the
bill Of fare before penetrating irto the
realm OF the necromancer who jugples with
the edibles in the rear will increase the
wonder. There are listed four or five differ
ent kinds OF soup, as many, perhaps, OF
fish, half dozen roasts, an ample array
Of made dishes, pies and puddings. and
all the vegetables, canned or fresh, in Or
binary use anywhere.
Any one who did not know might sup
pose that to cook and keep ready in guam
titles such an array Of dishes would require
an immense range, several cooks, and
plenty OF space. In reality the kitchen
is no bigger. or is even smaller. than that
OF an ordinary house, and one or at most
two assistants to wash dishes ara all
the one plain Yankee cook requires.
Suppose waiter comes with an order
for vegetable soup. The cook lifts the
lid Of big boiler Of clear soup, made by
boiling bones and scraps OF beef, mutton,
chicken, and veal together. Out OF this he
dips a bowl OF soup, and into the bowl he
! pops in quick succession little from eat h
pot Of boiled vegetables he is serving for
that day. He gives It all a stir, and, prestol
there is your vegetable soup.
For all the orders for soup that come
| in the cook goes first to the big boiler.
| Is it consomue? From big pitcher the
| cook povrs into the clear stock some brown
tlicke ming fluid. ls 1t max oni! A pot
| Of boiling water il near a. hand. and he
forks a few strings into the bowl. Is 1t
SCUM stands en- a handy shelf, and spoon
full fen DIS it's flavor to the stock Is it chicken
| He thr,ists pair OF tongs into the boiler
! and brings up morSels from the depths
until enough scraps Of chicken are found
to pass muster. Us it tomato2 A squirt
OF weak but thick tomato catsup does the
| business.
See the cook next lift that magic wand
| Of his which looks SO much like carving
| knife. Roast lamb and roast mutton
| come from the same joint at his touch:
| and by the aid Of little sauce and some
| Jelly 40 will roast verison at pinch.
| Roast rib or roast loin from the same piece
of beef depends altogether on his carving
| Veal 10 veal, or II Ia chicken for salad, or
| il is turkey for fricassee, or 1t is rabbit
for stew. or it Is lamb for pie just as he
| desires.
| The plain old Goldfish, too, IL boiled, is
turned into boiled halibut or paddock,
| or bluefisn. and If baked becomes baked
| halibut, or bluefis'. or haddock at his
| mere touch with tn, aid Of a few biting
sauces they become almost anything one
can name in the way of fish.
When it comes to des serts. the distinction
between fruit cake and plum pudding is with
| him only tire difference between hot and
| cold and vsnishes before the blastfrom his
| oven. Boiled rice--frequently called upon
| for a curry--with milk, sugar and little
nutmeg. Is straightway rice pudding.
| Tapioca and sago come ont OF the same
dish. Il is a wonder how he remembers
| all the names he calls his cottage pudding
You may talk about the French or Italian
chef, but the Yankee knows few tricks
| OF the trade. too.