davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-31

back, where the stretching is immaterial, rather than at the side, which would be the case were the center back edge to be placed to fold, and allowing for the required width. The fronts are double breasted, and the band of trimming is laid on to the edge.
 The sash may be a crepe de chine or soft silk one, or it may be made of strip of the cotton crepe fringed and knotted at the ends It is arranged over the gown, invisi- bly, secured at the middle of the back and at each side.
 The necessary quantity of 78-inch-wide material is eight to eight and half yards, and one yard of bias silk, cut into eight strips, for the trimming.
 The pattern, consisting of half each of the front and back and a sleeve, is so simple that any one may cut it for herself To do this pin some newspapers together, so as to obtain long strips, then measure along the straight edge for the side length 571a inches, as shown in the diagram, which is clearly marked to obtain the necessary widths at certain points. The printed lines of the newspaper are of great assistance in insuring the measurements across being quite straight The pattern cuts medium size, allowing fer a 55-inch length from front neck to foot edge, and extra allowance must be made for hem.
 The sleeves are each a straight length 46 inches long and 151a across, if the arm is long it may be more than 1o, also if desired full length, although they are not as dainty looking as if somewhat shorter.
 To cut out the material double the whole length of the goods end to end and shake the two together until the selyages exactly meet. Then place the straight edge of the front of pattern to the seIyage, the foot end to those of the material Gas in the diagram). Place the straight edge of the back to the opposite selvages, bringing the narrow end as far up the material beside the front as the width will permit.
 If the sash is to be of the same, there will be plenty of material left from cutting the sleeves. If the back is shaped out, it must only be little, and to a quite short waist. The silk bands must either be on perfect bias or be cut the exact shape of the edge.
 To make the gown stitch the seams with
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-31
slip hem it.

slip hem it. To make the sleeve fold the length of ma terial end to end and place pin at one end of the fold, as that is to meet the shoulder seam.
 Stitch the two ends together and continue the seam three or four inches up the side edges toward the pin. Add the trimming band to the opposite side in the same way as down the front of the gown, and slipstitch the two edges of it together from Ine bottom seam up 12 inches, which will leave the wrist opening above that Place the pinned point to the shoulder seam and sew to the arm hole, below which hem the sleeve edges sep arately down to where the seam commences The little diagram of the made sleeve ready for putting to the gown will simplify fol lowing the foregoing instructions. To add the sash 1t Is better to arrange it definitely, sewing the bow and ends on to the upper edge of the gown and making it fasten over the opposite one. This is to obtain the short waisted effect shown in my sketch.
 They are also frequently worn with a sash or girdle tied loosely around the waist, just to keep the fronts wrapped, as there are no fastenings.
 ROSA E. PAYNE.
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-31
Beauty and C@mfort
 in T7owe Gowr

House gowns are now the object of much more serious thought and expenditure than ever, and no longer is it considered per missible for a woman to go about her home in some shabby, oldfashioned garment and save all her money for street dress. On the contrary many women spend more money on their house gowns than on any other in their outfit. The tea gown has reached a degree of elaborate detail, not to mention expense, that makes 1t an extremely costly, garment-rnore costly than even ball gown; but, as Is always the case when the crest of the wave is reached, then come the smaller ones, the copies, as 1t were, which can and do have many of the same characteristics, but for much less outlay
 Only the initiated in the mysteries of dress can distinguish the difference. between the princess or empire dinner gown and the low-cut tea gown, and, indeed, very often they are worn on both occasions; but by rights, or from a correct standpoint, the tea gown should never be cut so low in the neck, and, in fact, it should be made with lace yoke. A square neck and cut open only in front is the most becoming style, but in order to allow of wearing the jeweled collars the neck can be cut low and either round or square in shape. The gown itself hangs loose from the shoulders in tucks, pleats or gathers, so full and wide around the front as to present a most delightfully."- freu-frou- effect, with countless ruff1es and founces of lace and chiffon combined; but all these founces and ruffIes must be so near the front that in no way can they Interfere with the clinging, close effect of the draperies, and even the lining is of the softest silk, so as not to add an inch In size.
 Lace is above all the best lining, and the question Is only what patterns or how much can be used in long lines, in triangular bands, In applique figures, in broad founces, in rufHes or in straight style. Cream white, blue white and ecru in many different tints are in fashion, while the fad in lace of the same shade as the materials is carried out in this also, and shows to greatest advantage
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-31

in pale gray, yellow or blue; but be 1t re- membered that the lightest shades should be used.
 While the fashionable tea gown of the moment is, as has been said, an expensive and elaborate garment, there are a number of styles and materials that can be made up for less than ever before known; this be- cause there is such variety of choice at this time of year. The figured silks and satins, the fancy veilings, crepe de chine, either plain or igured-all are inexpensive, if fabric be chosen that is not the very latest fashion as regards color Then, too, the cotton materials are considered suitable, and some of the cotton crepons are most effective for the plainer style of gown. Eff fective Persian embroidery is to be found at all the large shops at marked down prices, while effective designs in lace or embroid cred chiffon are now possible, and all of these are correct trimmings for tea gowns. ~ There are this winter an unusual number of smart house gowns made in princess style, and also with fitted waist and skirt to match, that have nothing in common with the tea gown save that they are intended only for house wear. Strangely do they re- 5 s- -a 2 ;
 semble the summer frocks of batiste silk, and even lightweight cloth, and i'll truth may be mistaken for theater gowns, as they are made up on almost precisely the same lines. Again white is in the lead as the most fashionable of all colors, and most at- tractive are the lace and cloth or lace and batiste made up in these house gowns All have long trains, all have fitted waists that, while they give the effect of being tight-1t- ting, are really made to be rather looser than the street gown and are intended to be absolutely comfortable.
 { The lining must fit, but at the same time the material put over the lining and the trimming as well is all arranged so as to give loose draperies and long lines full scope. If the gown Is princess at the back, in the front 1t is trimmed or made to look like jacket and skirt and while the jacket may be partly of lace and partly the ma
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-31

any woman who has treasure box of odds and ends and the slightest artistic knowl- edge of dress, for these same old odds and ends of ribbon and lace, queer old buttons, jeweled girdles and effective but unfashion- able trimmings now are of great advantage, and if the slightest taste in the arrangement can be called out satisfactory results are ob- tained.
 Quantity not quality, is good rule to fol low in regard to house gowns, and it is just as well--in fact, better-to have two or three rather than one very expensive one, and to make the difference one shall be on the tight fitting order and the others more on the artistic and conventional tea gown plan. India silk, crepe de chine ap1 veil ing can be added to the list of materials possible while velvet, satin and brocade are none too handsome to include in the cate gory only be sure that there is long enough train and that the style chosen is l becoming one and that all the accessories are in keeping and then it is only question as to how much money shall be spent for a woman to be well dressed in her own house.
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-31
Her Honey House.

An Iowa woman who was cleaning house one day accidentally knocked out brick and some mortar from the. side of a little used room In doing so she came upon curious humnfing sound and a delicate odor. She reported the circumstance to her sons, and two of them climbed up the outside of the house and removed some of the weather boards to investigate the phenomenon. They were much astonished to find that the whole side of the house nearly had been filled in by the bees with honey and honeycomb. Taking down the remaining boards, they carefully extracted the material, stored it in a convenient place for the winter and ate honey on their mullins for many months thereafter.
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-31
Spinsters Drink Less Tea.

Along with other characteristics of spin sterhood that have gone giimmering down the aisles of memory and tradition is that of devotion to tea.
 The spinsters of today drink coffee, good and strong, much more frequently than tea. Not q few of them demand even stronger beverages, but for none of them would the teapot be an appropriate emblem. Tea no longer serves, perhaps is not needed. to soothe the wounded vanity or console those women who are outside the matrimonial pal ace of bliss. Afternoon tea" still stands as a convenient term but it includes almost everything except tea, and when that harm less beverage is served it is so doctored that the tea-drinking old maid of tradition would not recognize it.
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-31
For Tbe Hone Dressmaker

choose woolen one for trimming cotton material. Woolen crepe or fancy Japanese silks make handsome gowns, but as the object of this lesson is economy and utility, the more modest materials are selected for our purpose. The back is cut with a seam down the center, which may either be in direct slope from the top to the lower points or it may be slightly curved in to suggest the waist. as indicated by the dotted line on tic diagram.
 A kimono proper should not have a seam down tho center, but, bearing in mind the necessity for rextra width for the lower part and the elastic nature of the texture, 1t is better that bias seam should occur at the
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-31

The Japanese kimono is, as rule, too; scanty: a garment for comfortable Ameri- can wear, but one made on the same lines, with q moderate amount of amplitude, is not only very becoming but a useful style Of wrapper, as 1t Is So readily slipped on. and 1t is so simple of construction as to be we'll within the powers of the veriest novice.
 The gown Illustrated and which serves for model for tEis lesson is composed of cotton crepe, costing 12s5 cents yard, and the border may be Of Japanese fancy silk or cotton.
 As cotton crepe laundess we'll 1t is desir. able to select bordering with the same reeommcndatson and, of course, never to
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-31

a very small stitch, turning to the right side, then agaln to the wrong one, inclosing the first turning, and so making neat French seam, taking up altogether only the half inch allowed on each edge. Press them as flat as possible, then make and press the foot hem. Next join the bias strips of the trimming, notch the seivage we'll, and press the trim mings open, so that the seam will be almost invisible on the right side. Lay the strip on
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-31
GraeQtul IDtroduetioDs

enment of the parties to the introduction is concerned. The aim of the introduction IS completely defeated by careless enunciation, as is also the case when one goes about the matter in this fashion: Father, let me pre- sent my classmate, ' or You must know this very special friend of mine, < leaving papa to guess the friends name. Again. you can make it exceedingly awkward for all con cerned by presenting My cousin Fannie' to al individual, who is left to guess wheth- CT "NIy Cousin Fannie'' Is Miss Smith, Jones or Robinson. The tactful person always uses title when such exists, thus honoring the owner and letting the other party un- derstand that he or she is meeting a person of distinction 4@
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-31

There is nothing as q rule that girl goes through so awkwardly as the ceremony of introduction. No matter how well drilled she may have been by her special instructor in etiquette, she stumbles when the time comes for her to make two acquaintances know each other, though she will probably go through her own presentation to queen without the slightest faltering in her de meanor.
 Always present gentleman to lady and younger to an older person. Names should be spoken clearly and distinctly, as there is nothing so embarrassing as the vain effort to make out mumbied something that is pre- sumably q name, but might as we'll be
Waterbury Democrat., 1903-01-31

the edge of the gown, the right side of the strip meeting the wrong side of the material. Tack it carefully to insure it's lying quite smoothly, then stitch the outer edges to- gether Take out the tacking threads, turn the trimming to the right side and tack it again with the seam exactly on the edge. Turn in the opposite one of the strip and
Bismarck daily tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1881-1916, 1903-02-13
BLAME PRESIDENT Mitchell.
Operators Attorneys Claim, He Was
Responsible for LswlcssncSe.

Philadelphia. Feb. 12.-Counsel for
the coal operators continued to arra'yl
the miners union in arguments bets.
the anthracite strike commission dur
ing the dav. The independent opera
tors of the I.ehigh, the WvoraiHg ard
the Lackawanna region held the at
tertion OF the commissiore for the
greater part of the day The proceed
ln25 opened with the presentation OF
the Reading company's argument by
Simon p Wolverton the company's
chief counsel
In nearly every case the attorneys
charged President Mitchell with re-
sponsililitv for the alleged law,css-
ness in the coal regions during the
STRIKE and the union was character
izof IS an irresponsible organization
WhC-e members were beyond fhe COW
troll 6 The leaders. Wclverton strc~'.
y r,Gai the incorporation cf the urica
and charged that It WIS unit 10 con
trcl the anthracite industry beccusc
hcvs are numbered among its mem
berS
Bismarck daily tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1881-1916, 1903-02-13
STOREHcUsE BURNS.
Costly Government Goods Go Up In
Smoke at Rock Island, ~.

Rock Island. H.. Feb 12-Shop CA
the principal issue storehouse at the
Rock Island arsenal. was destroyed by
fire during the night. together with its
contents The latter included cavalry
and infantry equipments OF every de-
scription and 100000 rounds of Krag-
IcTgensen smokeless ammunition The
COZ ~tents We're worth 81 500 900. The
building was a massive structure. three
stories in height erected 90 years ago
at cost Of $500 900
The flames in the great government
institution endangered property worth
many times the amount lost. The fire
was under control by o'clock a. m.
at which hour Major Blunt. the COM
mandant. made the estimate OF the loss
previously given.
There were no casualties so far as
known.
The Rock Island arsenal is the larg-
est in the United States. comprising
ten immense buildings and covering;
thirty acres of ground II represents
an expenditure Of $4,000 900.
Bismarck daily tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1881-1916, 1903-02-13
UNION MN ONLY.
UncrCarized Miners viii Not Receive
Advance in Wages.

Pittsbarg. Feh. l2-An important
feature in the interstate mining agree
mert was Officially announced during
the daY by President Dolan. It pro-
yides for the payment of the advance
In Wages to union men only, and on
Anlil ] when it takes effect. miners
WAC are net members of the United
Mine Workers will not participate in
the increase granted bv the Operators.
The president was asked if trouble.
was not likely TO occur among the IN
organized men, and he said the or
gairi2atlon would be able to prevent
a strike.
In the Pittsburg district there are
over EN 600 miners. and of this num-
her l. zoe are claimed by the United
Mine Workers union.
Bismarck daily tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1881-1916, 1903-02-13
UNEAslNEss IN AUSTRIA.
News OF BuIgaria's Intentions Fa;
From 7enSsurinu,

Vienna. Feb. 12.--The news that the
Bulgarian government is contemplat-
ins partial mobilization causes grave
uneasiness here. 1t is still hopci that
Austria and Russia, by energetic ac.
ton will prevent the danger from as
surins alrming proportions The de-
lay IL issuing an oliic statement re-
carding the outcome of the conference
between Count I.amsdorff. the Russian
foreign minister. and Count Goluohow-
ski. The Austrian premier, is much
criticised in diplomatic circles. whe~e
It Is felt that the statement ought t.
b. no ioagc~ DELAYED if it is to resu
IN any benefits.
Dispatches from Sofia report ihst
martial lew VIII be proclaimed in sey
eral districts with a view TO incroag-
in ne agitation among the Maced9-
mans
Theso are rumors Of conflicts h
tweo9 The Turks and the revolution
lists. the Tu~Es losi?g many men. III
reVolutonjsts are reported to be gain
ing a number Of recruits.
Bismarck daily tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1881-1916, 1903-02-13
GOES TO THE PRESIDENT.
Department Of Commerce Eil Acted
on BY the Senate.

Washington. Feb 12-Mr Hanna
during the day called up the confer
ence report on the department of com.
merce bill in the senate. and il was
agreed 10 without nebate The bil.
now goes TO the president.
Mr. Morgan almost Immediately af-
ter the opening of the session resume
his remarks on the statehood bill but
branched off on the subject of the
proposed treaty with Colombia. H
referred to the concordat Of Pope
Uius TX which constituted part
OF the organic law OF Colombia
and said that the United states in
tended 70 put the heel Of ignomnious
contempt upon it. He predicts re-
turn of the hostilities between the old
church party in Colombia and the
Liheral party.
Nr. Dapew spoke in opposition tc
the statehood hill He did not con
clude his sreech
Bismarck daily tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1881-1916, 1903-02-13
MINNESOTA VETERAN DEAD
George w. Brannan Served in the
Mexican and the Civil War;

st. Paul. Feb. l2.-George w. Bran
nan, one OF Minnesotas earliest se--
tiers, died of heart failure at the hcmc
Of his only daughter, Mrs. Margarct
Esh. $40 Wabasha street.
Mr. Brannan was born in Dayton.
Ohio, in 1928. In 1876. upon the oren-
ing of the Mexican war, he enlisted il
the United States army. but on ac-
count of his youth his parents obtain
ed his immediate discharge A month
afterward be again enlisted and sue
ceeded in getting to the front. iia
served through all the Mexican war
and at its close in 1913, was sent TO
Fort Smelling.
Upon the declaration of war in 1856
he enlisted in the Sixth Minnesota
volunteers and served through the en-
tire Civil war. becoming first sergeanc
of Company A. and upon receiving his
honorable discharge in 1865 returned
to his family in Minnesota.
Bismarck daily tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1881-1916, 1903-02-13
OBTAINED LARGE SUMS.
Clever italians SWindied insurance
Companies for Ten Years.

New York, Feb. 12.-An exposure OF
the methods of the conspirators in the
recently discovered Italian life insur-
ance frauds was made during the day
by the confession Of one OF the men
concerned. It appears that the frauds
have been in operation for ten years.
during which time the insurance com
panies have been defrauded by hun
dreds of thousands of dollars. In one
instance company paid out 10000
on one fraudulent risk The head OF
the conspiracy. Mr.. Krotel says. was
Bartolomeo Cirino. who was recently
arrested and released under $4,000
bail. Cirino is said to have disappear
ed and his bond will be ordered for
feited.
The usual plan of operations was to
make an application for insurance in
the name of some person in practic-
ally dying condition. healthy substi-
tnte being presented for medical ex-
animation. In cases where the origi-
nal risk" fingered too long to satisfy
the conspirators. a substitute body wes
used on which to collect the amount
Of the policy.
Bismarck daily tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1881-1916, 1903-02-13
PLANS MiSCARRiED.
Soldiers Had Plotted to Raid South
Dakota Town.

Brown was informed during the night
that a number of soldiers of the Thir-
teenth cavalry at Fort Meade had or
ganized to come here during the night
with carbines and make trouble. The
sheriff went TO the post and told the
commander Of the report. The com
mander investigated and found about
forty carbines missing. A patrol was
sent in after all soldiers in town.
Some of the carbnes are said TO have
been secreted in some brush near
town The plot was brought about by
recent shooting ARRAYS. two soldiers
having been shot here by citizens on
Tueslav
Bismarck daily tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1881-1916, 1903-02-13
Intense Excitement.

Duluth, Feb. 12-Two lives were
lost and ten men had narrow escaros
as a result CT a fire in No. 3 shaft st
the Spruce mine, owned by the Unit
ed States Steel Corporation. at I'VE
leth. MINI. during the day The dead
are: John O'Brien and William Mat
thews
The fire was caused by the exDlo-
sion cf lantern which was left near
the edge of the shaft on the second
level. $50 feet below the surface
Ninety feet deeper in the mine twelve
men were at work in a drift which
was being put through from No. 8 to
No l shaft There was no escape for
them except by way of No. 8. in which
the fire was raging The efforts Of
the fremen was directed with good
effect on the blazing woodwork which
lined the shaft. the hose being run
down No. shaft and carried through
to the nOint where the fire originated
There was ventilation for the fremen
but none fer the twelve men in the
drift ninety feet below them.
Men in Tota! Darkness.
The air soon became freiehted with
steam. gas and smoke. The men We're
in total darkness. the lights from their
candles being of little avail They
grouped to the point where the drift
Joined the No. | shaft and peered NJ
ward and when they could no longer
see fire above them they began climb
ing the ladder
Ten of them reached the second
level Two O'Brien and Matthews.
We're overcome when about forty feet
from the point where safety was as
sured. and fell back to their death.
When the news spread over Evelyth
that the shaft at the Spruce was on
fire there was much excitement Men
and women rushed to the mine and
those who had relatives below were in
an agony of fear. The mining officials
at the Spruce are said to have handle
the disaster we'll The swift work in
eXtinguishing the fire saved the lives
of at least ten men The bodies OF
O'Brien and Matthews have not yet
been recovered
Bismarck daily tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1881-1916, 1903-02-13
MRS. sTREETER is DEAD.
Refuses to Be Taken to a Hospital and
Dies in Barn.

Chicago, Feb. l2.-Refusing to be
taken to a hospital where proper care
could be given her. Mrs Maria Street
er wife of Captain George Wellington
Streeter of District of Lake Michi-
gan" fame, died in the loft of barn
drriag the night. Death was a result
0f internal injuries sustained in
street car accident several months
ago. The woman was the principaf
Of many battles in the contested
ground on the side of the lake shore
and was well known and feared by the
police on account Of her energetic ac-
tions in behalf Of her husband
CAPTAIN Streeter is now in the coun-
ty ial awaiting removal to the pcai-
Tertiary at Joliet to which he wss
several weeks ago on d
charge OF murder.