The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-11-06

and is made with a plated skirt and long,
skirted blouse coat. The sdrt Is un-
trimmed, its plaits being siml:y stitched.
put the coat is finished with tDws OF silk
braid and Its cape is edged with a fall OF
wide silk fringe. A most eqaisite gown
made of chiffon velvet is i'm tw9 shades of
gray and serves SO well TO m.srk some OF
the tendencies of the season As TO merit
special description. 1t is not a suit, but a
gown that can be worn beneath any wrap
of fur or cloth. Its skirt is made in a who'll
iy novel way with eight narroSv plaits at
the front that are turned towarf the center
and stitched fiat for approximately a half
yard; a box plait with three n4rrow plaits
at the back. Over the hips It is plain.
Round the lower edges are eiaht circular
folds, double, alternating the shfdes OF gray
that are set on and stitched at their upper
edges. Each fold is about tpree inches
wide and the lower edge Of eace falls over
the upper edge OF the under 6he. the eff
The blouse is simple and elegant. At the
center front and center back ara groups Of
narrow tucks. five in number. that ex-
shoulders are tucks that extead 10 yoke
depth and provide fulness below. There is
a tiny yoke OF cream cloth with a narrow
i hpp.'aue The Se i sieev ana are a st4 tSsk elssv sr0% and ind
shoulders to give the broad en<ct and are
trimmed with six folds each. to match the
lace. The belt is the wide one OF the sea-
son. shaped to fit the figure aTtd TO droop
a bit at the front. and matches the yoke
oho 1dAlc jill III VELVET %OulQ DE so
treated with good results, but IL as beautiful
in the extreme and takes linez and folds
that are a delight.
A FAvORITE COLoI..
Gray, let me say, is much worn and shows
some lovely new shades. Bots in velvet
and in cloth it is very beautiful and>ex-
pert designers use bits of brigtt color in
contrast that are bewitching. "a notable
instance of this last is found ipsa costume
- ~ -
known as sea foam. The skirt is untrim-
med but is laid in plaits that form panels
and which give ideal folds. Ths little coat
Is a snrg fitting Eton that is cut short
stitched. and green velvet also snakes the
fiat collar: AS 1 have already, told you,
these girdles. or bodice belts. are a craze
and are peculiarly charming und.r the tiny
coats, but to be satisfactory 3hey must
be carefully fitted and boned. There is on
the market a foundation forns made OF
flexible bone, that is admirable ind is sup
piled with lacings that render tie size adj
Unstable Where one cannot b. fitted to
order by an expert she can de- no better
than to remember the fact ands make use
thereof, for the result will be- far more
satisfying than that obtained b. any other
method known to me.
This is the time of many heels, many
restaurants and many dinners gisen therein
and, consequently, of many beautiful gowns
that are as dainty as the regulation din
ner sort but made high and worn with hand
some hats. Among other notabls examples
seen recently was one OF blacs net pro-
fusely spangled with jet and m.de with a
waist that bloused all round ofer a deep
corselet Of satin and jet, worn with a big
velvet hat nearly covered with r.umes and,
by its side another of pale bluE crepe de
chine. This last was chiefly semarkable
for its profusion OF fine lace dyet TO match
and for the deep pointed falls Z .ereof that
finished the elbow sleeves Its xyaist was
a blouse, much tucked, with a E.de belt OF
stitched panne and a mousselinefined yoke
finished with a dog-collar compcSed Of tur-
quoises mounted on velvet. StAl a third
gown was Of a soft satin in a sale SHIN
mering shade of pink and SHOWED a skirt
gathered at the belt and ffnislfd with a
deep f1ounce OF chiffon cloth wsh a wide
insert Of lace above the hem. Where pic
ture hats are not worn there arr matching
turbans or toques that are alnsst, If not
quite, as fascinating, and the cbaks worn
over the gowns are in themselvSS a study.
White, mushroom. oyster and Champagne
are the favorite colors and clofs the ma
terial. AS a rule they are long Sind loose,
with capes and huge sleeves ana are gor-
geously lined. but let me hasten e. add that
a simple model well finished and ined with
white satin is perfectly correct sand quite
elegant enough TO satisfy evens la mode.
for In spite of present extravagafces, COM
mon sense and good Judgment aps not quite
dead.
THE SEPARATE wAIfEr.
The question OF the odd wai>t and its
proper skirt is continually beirk brought
into discussion. That the costude has it's
place is so true that ii cannot be tsilied, but
there are certain changes which occur from
season to season that IL is WEI to note.
Just now the skirt that is bess: liked for
the more formal occasions is OF zhite cloth
and is worn with waists OF lace, met. chif-
fon and crepe de Chine. made as saborately
as may be. Such a skirt, well Ilade, with
such waists and a cloak OF whites cloth fills
many needs, yet can be obtained St far less
cost than a gown. for the reason Tat ready
made blouses are usually quite satisfactory,
and the skirt should be within she power
OF any tailor or While they
the most part, made full but plak- One or
the best liked models Is the Off already
referred to with the full-length Cont. with
yoke and plated sides. The 9aists are
beautiful and are lace-trimmed tnd made
elegant in many ways. The lafyst decree
calls for belts made or the trimming or or
the material, that are quite wtse and ft
with perfect smoothness. The fsOuses are
made To be worn over the skirt3 In place
of under them. and the belts becfme parts
thereof. White continues TO be fsst favor
tie, but is seen with touches or solor that
create variety. A charming one q peau de
cynge has, for example a shallo< yoke or
pale blue. and is further trim ned with
French knots in the same color Shallow
yokes are much used, and ares rendered
most elegant blouse of black netHs so cut.
and shows the yoke OF cream sace over
white mOusseline. while similar :examples
Hats grow more and more beaisiful with
each week. Plumes always are snodels OF
grace and are fascinating. but, is addition,
we have a charming variety OF ST. al toques
on which these cannot, OF courses be used.
For these fur is much liked, ara Is seen
both making the entire turban and COM
bined with velvet. The soft. plifle MOLE
skin, which is such a craze, Is 9dmlrable
for these last. and Is rendered dofSoly beau
tiful by touches OF ermine. Tips snd wings
make the accepted trimmings. ang. are both
good. The torpedo shape is pecuSarly well
adapted TO fur. and Is a ~favorite. S,ut there
are models enough 10 suit all sizes
MAY MzNToN.