davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Twice-a-week plain dealer. (Cresco, Howard County, Iowa) 1895-1913, 1903-06-26

sAAc SoAsAA6S5AuSy Auu seen u SuOIl Ilue
before. He came straight to where the
Americans sat smoking and, bowling
low. held before them IN envelope. The
address was "Grenfall Lorry, Esq.,"
but the man was In doubt as to which
was lie.
Lorry grasped the envelope. tore 1t.
open and drew forth a dei,ntily writ.
ten note. It read: :
MY psas Nh I4erry--I was very much
surprised to zee you this morning.
may add that ! was delighted. II you
calls for you at 3 o'clock tomorrow after
noon. he will conduct you to my home.
where shall truly be charmed to seq
you again. VIII you bring your friendf
SOPHIA GUGGEs4s1. qckER.
I.orry could have s embraced the mes
sepseE There was q suspicion OF
breatllesshess in his voice when be
fried to say calmly to Harry,
IAN inyitatien for tomorrow"
4 knew It would come that way.
AAlso wanta you to come"
"Ghan't be In the way z,
Not ut all. my boy. I'll accept for
you. After this fellow goes Ill let you
read the note. Wait until write an
answer
Motioning for the man to remain. he
FASTENED to hts room, pulled out some
stationery and feFerlshly wrote:
MY Dear Misc Gugsenslo.ker-I shall be
delighted to accompany your messenger
tomorrow. and my friend. Mr.. Harry
/ Anguish. will be with me. have come
half way across the continent to see YOU,
and shall be repaid il / am with YOU
but for moment, YeWs will pardon mo
II say that yaur name has caused me
despair No ono seems to have heard 1t
here. and was beginning to lose hope.
You may expect me at 8, and thank
you for the pleasure ypu bestow. Yours
| 1lncerely. GRENFALL LORRY.
This note, part Of which had been
written with misgiving, he gave to the
messenger, who rode away quickly.
"She didu't wait long to write q
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-09-13

usual full balloon to below the elbow. Set
INTO the back seam and running around the
notion is narrow fiat plating Of the cloth
with cut edge, A full undersleeve fits into
close straight cuff braided and trimmed
with fur.
An upper sleeve of one deep bell fiounce
OF many frills, with long. close cuff. ia a
favorile model. and one most attractive
costume in brown cloth has this single bell
hounce upper sleeve very full and borclered
by cut bands Of the cloth stitched in white
on the upper edge ana left free on the lower
edge over "A band of white cloth Beneath
tins huge shaped bell is Il puff ,lnderseeve
OF creamy lace. finished with a deep frill
falling low over the hand.
In evening sleeves the frll is "A great
feature. One of the handsome,t evening
gowns in the collection has for sleeve a huge
soft pun of pink chiffon over pale green
chiffon, over which droop> a cIinging lace
bertha
This puff ends above the elbow, where
begins double fall of fine lace over frills
of pink and green chiffon edged in self
ruchngs. These frillS fall exceedingly
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-09-13
MERE VINE.
Story OF SacrileEc Which Shocked Paris
Restaurant Folks.

Restaurant Folks.
Daughter was from the West too, but she
had spent two years in New York remote
from the parental home and the parental
millions, finishing" at a school which taught
a great deal more even than was to be
| learned out of books She was able. there.
! fore. to enjoy the ease with which her friend
ordered dinner for her and her parents in
| the Paris restaurant and his fine air of hav-
/ ing spent all his life in an atmosphere OF
! epicurean delights.
/ The four We're seated in the place with
| the most famous cellars in Paris. He had
| looked through the wine list, voluminous
| as telephone book, and said 10 the waiter
| Chateau de Vlleneuve, premier cru, Ca, "
astonishing this functionary until he was
| almost as white as his apron.
That wine was the most expensive on the
highest priced list in Paris. No mere
waiter could handle a drink like it. Even
| the cellarman with his green apron and
silver chain could not be trusted to bring
up such wine. 1t must have the personal
attention of the head waiter and he in turn
| supervised by the proprietor, to have il
reach he table in the proper way. Chateau
| de Nillencuvr pre- mier cru, "a, at A.
francs bottle was not ordered every
| day even in this restaurant beloved of
Russians and Americans.
Passing from one to another of The res
taurant hierarchy. the bottle finally rea ched
the table. Mother who had been nibhing
radishes tried an fcrCr'sse just az the wine
was approaching the table and AS suddenly
elected the hors d'J urre into her hand.
Il do believe" she said with an expression
of horror, that the thing was raw
The wine was deposited in safety, Jared
only by the blow from the mothers elbow
The soup arrived, too. and the distribution
was imminent The waiter lifted up the
cradle he cellarman stood like a guardian
angel behind him and the other walters
lowered about in the background. Father
saw the wine impending and held ou his
water lumber
Nv inc always goes TO my head. ne said
IF drink II plain"
And he picked mp the carafe and filed
with water the glass containing tn" precious
drops
The waiter glanced apprehensvely at the
ceIlarman az If the life Of he American
might Ire in danger, The walters in the
background disappeared AZ though I'M
willing TO Witness such u Dissertation
The crllarnans neck grew red and his
fingers twitched nervoIisly. Tn. sight
was awful.
But worse was TO come Mother had
her way Of drinking claret
I'D like n little sugar IN my wine" she
said Two Jumps II always seems 10
me 'ogiys II more taste. Will you toll that
waiter 10 give me some sugar.
The host whispered surIp AZ soft at
possible while the waiter went ia search
Of IT, When he returned Mother dropped
in two large Jumps.
AT home. il This had Iittl e lemon and
water IN il p" she observed with the air al
rpcure, III would be called "A sangaree
Daughter, who WAS begnning 10 suspect
that sOuei hing was wrong, looked nearly
a. conscious A. the host and refused The
wine altogei her so he had almost IN.
entire quart 10 himself, which was also,
in It's way, a kind Of compensation.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-09-13

work in the early fall she found that She
was no longer available as "A model.
I'VE will give you just two weeks TO
get in good figure again" said the head
OF the department,
And the girl realized that, unless she
could go back to her former ideal shape,
would not fit the cloaks and waists She
went to young woman who was noted for
her long, pretty shape, and said TO her
What can do 10 be savedi"
The young woman replied al length,
giving her certain directions, which she
followed. The first was as 10 diet
"Stop for IA time drinking coffee or tea, "
she said. so not take even chocolate
for your breakfast. A cup OF water not
too hot and ii breakfast Of poached eggs
on toast will suffice
For your lunch, eat pears and drink
"A glass Of hot milk. For your dinner,
take Two lamb chops, two slices of toast
and a dish Of green salad. with vinegar
dressing. Take nothing else for "A week
Just this diet three times a day
The second week you can take tea a.,
but do not go back 10 coffee for at least a
month. Next YOU must ,&-rci-e AZ though
your very lie dcpended upon it You must
exercise A. though you wanted and expected
TO lose al least ten pounds in two weeks,
and he chances are that yoDl will do 1t
"l.t your first exercise be- the habit Of
standing up straight. The woman who
squares her shoulders, stands up straight
throws her weight Ipou the balls Of her
feet and throws hr-, ONT will in "A
very little whlr %. ice IN" Improvement
in her waist line
"IlIe cadets At military school will
show you how stand Take "A lesson
from them If You cnuupt get II IN any other
way
Nh"n you ARE IN your room alone, stand
correctly pres dDwu~ard upon the hips
lakr u fun breath, throwing GUl the chest
and, by u muscular effort try 10 rais" he
rib, ~ ~ -p"a, iprI will find that there
l. u I"a"rinR anu = drawing IN of the aldo
men and that rh' Hal- line actually sinks
down q IItt"
~ hen you put on your corset do not lace
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-09-13

nep' that OF lowering the belt line. and the
sooner they do this the better for their
general appearance
1t cannot be done by tight lacing, and il
cannot he done by any trick Of the filter 2
art. II must be done by the woman her
self, who must work upon her waist line
until it is all it ought TO be.
When woman goes out 10 buy "A new
gown she begins to worry about the size
and position of her waist line for she soon
finds that it is defective But even the
worst figure can be brought into shape
and woman can be as delicately formed
as she wills, merely by working intelligentIy
upon her own outlines
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-09-13
ALL DEPENDS ON The SLEEVE.
IT ~ THE CORNERSTONE or THE
\EW NTiwN FRGCk.
A BALLOON al the Elbow Its Main Feature
Great variety Otherwis Permitted
Wan, Pretty Models 10 Choose From
Dress, Houses Low elier Than Ever

Ine sleeve Is the Cornerst one and founda-
,iou of he autumn modes and, according
a, the sleeve j. successful or unsuccessful
80 does n" new frock triumph or fail Art
i, needed for the cutting and fashioning
Of the new sleeves, but, on the other har d,
mich latitude Is allowed to the artist.
Never was there "A season when sleeve
models ~howcd more diversity; and, though
certain general lines are imposed. there
/, infinite variety of detail The sleeve
with an immense pouch, dropping above a
narrow wri-tband. has practically disap.
reared The fulness has crept up the arm
20 tn" neighborhood Of the elbow. and a
decided we'll or balloon line at this point is
Imperative Beyond that construction is
'at, to the fancy of the designer.
The funeSs may begin at the shoulder
bong plated in there and unstayed. or
the upper part of the sleeve may be COM
psralyely close fitting and swell int fulness
near the elbow In ma ,iority Of instances
oven withthe sleeves full from the shoulder
the effect of close cap is given by a pelerine
yoke. close clinging bertha or cape; but
this is not always the case.
For example, red cloth Paris model
gown. on Wow at the Fashion Show where
bv the way, all of these sleeve sketches
were madr-has its coat sleeve very full
from The shoulder where it is plated into
The armhole in a q,adruple box plat. From
there it falls full to point we'll below the
elbow, where it meets a deep wide cuff of
red velvet braided in black and gold. Be-
low the cuff fall deep lingerie frlls.
These lingerie frill- are the most original
note in the seasons cloth sleeves. and
though they bid fair to be overdone. as is
ever the case with mode readily initiated
they are unQuestionably charming and
give most feminine and dainty touch
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-09-13

girdIe effect Above the girdle lin" II does
pouch slightly, and, a. rule, blOuSes at
sides and back, a. well as in front
One of the slnarteSt blolI1es IN the col
lection, though one Of the most severe, Il
fashioned of fine brOadcloth in pastel pink
and trimmed with cut-out pink cloth over
white, the open-work design being en-
brodered in pink silk, A deep pelerine
yoke holds the upper sleeve like a close
lifting cap, but below that the sleeve fol
lows the usual balloon line, fitting into n
long Gun
The deep girdle is of cloth, Citing rnugly
to the curves of the figure, but with the
straight front line where il fastenr with
narrow cloth straps and little buckles.
A more elaborate blouse Of pale blue
I,olIisine and flnly ch Ron has pointed
woke Of bias bands and fagotng below
which deep, flat double triIIs Of CHIFFON fall
around the shoulders and slope down IN
palerine or fichu fashion to thr ghd
iream lace applique separates Ia" yok"
from these fi"hu founce, and r"app"ars
lipOu the deep cuffs Of bias Dands and fagOt
ing, above which are draped rrhIly huge
balloon sleeves Of tine soft silk, almost
covered by the chiffon fchu Rouncer
Their. are, too II detachable iol-" Of
white crepe le ohiue. trimmed ~ lac" and
Inep-knOltud silk fri ", "a JDtI,. OF pink
liberty satin with inset I1c" ani applied
motifs VI heavy padded pn-Srn"nt"rl" ~
pink and u cIidInUaRnr color blOuA" Ot ELK
zduze with roany frliIs Of lace and With
tiny corded puhings Of pal" bin" liberty
silk sci on IN scroll destgns--but the cuts
will describe the dainty creations better
than words
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-09-13

A CHANGE CALLED FOR ~ THE
NEW SHIRT WAISTS.
The! Are Built for Women with Ideal
Figures. ami Mess the Average Woman
Looks Out. They VIII Not Become Her
Deep Breathing One Of the Remedies.

The new shirt waists make a woman
one inch longer in the waist than the Ole
ones. This il because they are built for
women with IDEAL figures, whose as's
taper long and naturally.
This state of things, this building OF
the shirt waists in the new and ideal man
ncr, is hard upon the woman of poor figure
and worse still upon the woman win no
figure al all.
The woman with the poor figure ia the
one whose waist Is Just a little too short
II comes up IA little too far in the back and
a great deal too far in he front.
This makes the waist of the dress hitch
up Just where it ought not to and utterly
destroys all beauty and symmetry 1t
makes woman look thick and ugly, fat
and deformed, and ii takes away all sem
blanoe of the grace which should be hers
To lower the waist line should therefore
be the aim of every woman who wants
to look we'll this winter
The woman who has pretty good figure
and who il in doubt as to whe her she ought
to lower her waist line, can easily ascer-
ain the real facts by applying certain
ests to herself Let her stand in front
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-09-13

These lingerie frilS are he most original
note in the seasons cloth sleeves, and
though they bid fair to be overdone. as is
ever the case with mode readily initiated
they are unuuestionably charming and
give a most feminine and dainty touch
e! =
= = !
4 N
to dark wool gown. They are made Of
finest lawn plated in tiny plaits and are
put in double. one falling we'll below the
other and coming down at least to the wrist
on the inner seam, with deeper droop
mt the outer seam
Some of the frills are simply hemstitched,
hut a majority are edged with very narrow
Valenciennes lace. or in some cases with
lace an inch and half in width Silk
nousseline and chiffon frils are used in
The same way. but are by no means so chic.
and the double frills of deep lace SHRED
in after the fashion of the lingerie fris,
though more suited to certain costumes,
have not the charm of the lingerie.
In one form or another the full cloth
sleeve with frills appears again and again
among the imported models but here are
-ketched only three of this type, One is the
red cloth coat sleeve already described,
another is the sleeve Of white cloth frock.
The latter has the fulness laid into the
shoulder in narrow tucks, stitched down
several inches but not made to fit closely.
Below the elbow the sleeve is finished by
turnback cuff of corn flower blue velvet
braided in white silk fibre braid Two
lingerie frills edged with narrow lace fall
from under the cuff.
The third model differs from the Their
two in being held more closely to the arm
at the top and swelling out into a more
pronounced curve at the elbow The
cuff too, has different lines, being slashed
mp the back. with the lingerie frlls falling
full from the slashing.
Even more numerous than the frilled
sleeves are the sleeves with close fitting
cuffs reaching almost to the elbow and
great funess above. Here there is more OF
room for variety Of detail and there are
innunerable ways Of trimming the long
cuff
One particularly good model in voile
has lattice work cuff Of bias bands and
fagotng. The upper sleeve fits rather
closely on the inner arm, but at the outer
arm is set into the shoulder with several
deep, heavily pressed side plaits.
These paits fall straight to the elbow
where they curve and are laid fiat across
the arm at he upper edge of the cuff There
''S are Hcni ny d loIiS buIloheu Slrdp
which runs down upon the cuff and up
upon the upper sleeve
The sketch will give a better idea of the
model than any descriptions statement
applying equally well TO all Of the sleeve
models. There L., for instance, an effective
white cloth sleeve which looks somewhat
complicated but which upon examination
proves TO be quite simple
The main body of the sleeve fits easily
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-09-13

| II tight. On the contrary. let ont the lac
ings as far As YOU can Now pull down
the corset very low in front, 80 low that the
nus. and chest stand out far above the top
OF the corset This lowers the waist line
considerably.
Now, while the corset il pulled down
low. take hold of the STRINGS and give them
atug. You will find that though they grow
lighter, you do not feel the strain, You
can pun them quite tight without being
conscious Of il.
full and keep on pulling. giving one sharp
Jug after another. until the corset is conf
iortably snug Do not lace it tight. But
let u be- very loose n, the top and very
loose al the bottom, with all the snugnesS
coming AT the belt line
The model did "a she was told and with
he very best results She soon had u nice
long waist and was able, one. more, to
lake her place in the linz with the other
models as the possessor of an ideal figure.
The habit Of deep breathing is a very
potent one IN the process Of engt henlng
he waist. Indeed, ii would b. hard TO
find an .xercis. more beneficial or more
quickly product i've of good results
At an inst tuition where women are taken
Tor the reduction cure one of the principal
exercises consists in the daily breathing
exercises. The women are put into GYM
nasium costumes and are stood up in row,
side by side. The instructor steps out
IN front OF them. the music str kes up ana
the exercise begins. 1t consists solely
and entirely in deep breathing. The women
take long, deep breaths. pressing the hands
upon the hips. Then they breathe again.
holding the breath and throwing out the
chest And again they breathe deeply,
this time pressing the abdomen.
The deep breathing exercises occupy
half an hour and then the pupils are sent
out into the garden for little air and very
little mild exercise. So important is this
daily lesson that the women are expected
to 80 through with it no matter whether
they take the other exercises Of the day or
not.
The waist line should be as low as posi-
hle. There should be the long, full-swellng
line, and the woman who does not cultivate
il is blind to beauty and oblivious to her own
possibilities.
A great many tall women are defective
in the matter of waist line. They have
too short a waist and too long skirt They
are too long in the limbs to be in proper
ton For these there is no remedy ex
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-09-13

signer may experiment AS she will In
many models a lining Of net or a skilfcl use
of fine milliners wire is called into service
TO effect the necessary swelling outline and
prevent the fulness from falling in Imply
to the arm.
effectiveness of the dressy blollses, which
are lovelier than ever, despite the oft RE-
peated cry that the separate blouse is ont Of
style. A full blouse, depending for cachet
upon picturesque and somewhat eNagger-
ated sleeve and beautifully wrought yoke,
or yoke and bertha. is a description that will
apply to almost any of the beautiful blouses
in he Fashion Show collection: but the out
line of the full blouse has changed.
The pouch over narrow waistband ls
practically eliminated, and the fulness is
lifted almost to the bust line by some deep
The Birmingham age-herald., 1903-02-15

inE the infIained niefil- branes to heal when the mucous discharges cease, and the damage done to the health is soon repaired. s. s. s.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1903-02-15
GOLD HOUSE FOR WORLDS FAIR.
Colorado Wants to Build One That
 Will Be Worth $10ooo,000.

 Washington Cor St. Louis Dispatch.
 Colorado wants house of pure gold, worth S10,000 00O, at the St. Louis exposi- ton. Out of pure gold it is possible to reproduce in miniature one of the famous buildings of the Centennial state, the White House at Washington or the capitol of the United States.
 Senator Teller has written a letter to the secretary of the treasury asking for a loan of $1o00OOOO to be placed in the Colorado building at the St. Louis expo- sition.
 Secretary of the Treasury Shaw said to the Post correspondent that he saw no reason why the gold could not be loaned under a proper guarantee. He said he was not familiar with the precedents which might apply to such a request and that possibly there might be some law or regulation which would prevent the government from placing the money at the disposal of trustees in charge of the Colorado exhibit.
 Senator Teller also asked for the use of the gold for ten days, but he said he saw no reason why it should not be loan ed for a longer period, If at all.
 The application of Senator Teller was referred to Director of the Mint Roberts. He is now In Iowa, and there will be no
The Birmingham age-herald., 1903-02-15

answer to the request until he returns and passes upon 1t.
 Ten million dollars In gold weighs a little over eighteen tons, sufficient 10 build quite a sizeable house, even though of such precious and heavy metal as pure gold.
 If the pople of Colorado desire pure gold. 1t must be taken from the assay office in New York or the mint In Phla- delphia. There would not be the slight est trouble in securing the necessary amount, if the gold as it comes from the mines will suit. as the required amount can be produced from the assay office at Denver. If the gold should be taken from here it would weigh much more and be of greater bulk than if taken from the stores In Philadelphia and New York It is suggested that the pure gold would be much more suitable
 At the office of the supervising archi- tect of the treasury 1t was said that q very large reproduction of the White House might easily be made, and with out much expense, with such a large quantity of pure gold. It was explained that the bricks are in various sizes from five to one hundred and seventy-five ounces. The smallest are no larger than domnoes. while the largest ones are al- most bricks in size. In shape they are much longer and narrower. In the treas ury offices they are designated as bars, and not as bricks.
 On account of the many sizes and shapes of these bricks, 1t would be com paratively easy to make an architectural reproduction of almost any building In the United States. or world for that mat ter. There would be plenty of bricks. The treasury officials are much pleased with the idea and their hearty co-opera- tion can be depended upon if there are no legal Instructions.
 They say that 1t would be the largest single exhibit of the kind. Suggestions of the reproduction of some great build ing In Washington emanate from the treasury, and probably more feasible than the representing of the Colorado building, as by taking a federal buIluing the more hearty cooperation of the Washington officials might be expected.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1903-02-15

three scored to play with less than the maximum
 In a few minutes Ardisson and his friends picked up. as has been said, mass of francs equivalent to $10O,00 Coolly they strolled to the door. A ear- riage was in waiting. It conveyed them across the frontier, and they vanished from the Casino oompany's ken.
 How was the thing done?
 Simply Cheat Trick.
 By trick as old as conjuring In the excitement over the dropped coins, the head croupier's attention was diverted for a fraction of a second. The croupier who was cutting the cards had been heavily bribed by Ardison. At the moment when the confusion was at it's height he placed an extra pack on the top of the others. Ardison had prepared pack exactly sim liar to those used by the bank, and had arranged them in a certain order, which he and his accomplices memorized. He consequently knew beforehand the results of a run of games. The rest was easy.
 The bribed eroupier was caught and put in prison. Since then the pattern of the Casino playing cards Is cnanged every twenty-four hours.