The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1903-10-04
pII ]ME TRIMMED HAT
WILL BE SEASONS RAGE
Long Plun1es, Short Plunes, Even Little Tiny Tips,
Are Used With Telling Effects on the New
Hats-The Tailor. Made Suit and the
Matinee Blouse-Tl1e Collar.
less Corsage and How
to Wear 1t.

Of individual choice, and the smart girl
may Just suit her own style-or, what IS
perhaps more VITAL her purse-when maxi
ing selection for her new fall hat.
Even the close-Htting turbans and
toques are not exempt from the fashion
for feathers. very smart toque was no-
ticed the other day. which had the left
side turned up sharply and q long ostrich
feather placed fiat against It, the quill
poking forward toward the front, and
the inturnng tip curling softly into tho
curve of the wearer's neck. And right
here 1t Is to be noted that in the recent
photographs Of Partisan fashion leaders
those clever actresses who set the fash
ions for the grand monde-there Is de-
cided penchant for having the corsago
collarless and the hair dressed low and
confined in fancy net, SO that the long,
dropping plumes DO not catch In hair
pines or rufle the coiffure. 1t Is just these
little details which identify the girl who
adopts every little passing fad OF fash
ion-that is, of course. whom 1t is sure
to prove becoming to her personality.
For the Plump Neck.
OF course, this collarless corsage Is
not going to be becoming to everybody.
The girl with plump neck and rounded
features may adopt it without fear OF
failure! perhaps it was Originally de-
signed to set off the charms OF some
such a one The girl with slender neck
and aqulline features. however. must
either have the bodice cut out quite
round at the throat, or else she must
stick to the high stock. No halfway
measures will suit for her: she must
reach the extreme Of the STYLE or el5a
let 1t severely alone. The stout girl
with the short. plump neck. or with
almost no neck at all. would better
have a little fall OF lace-real lace. II
she can manage to have it-over the
band. and necklaces. velvet throat bands
and such were better eschewed, for they
only add to the apparent size of the
neck without improving the contour. The
girl with the long, slender neck, which
her friends will designate swan-like, may
pile en- all the necklaces she desires to.
but she must take care that, II her
features be plump. the necklaces fit close
ly to the throat. hut If the face be thin,
then the neck dressing must be loose
and hang low. These are hints which It
carefully followed will do much toward
enabling oil sorts and styles of girls to
adopt the latest Partisan fads and fam
cies, and each one when cleverly adapted
as we'll as adopted may be made to im-
prove her appearance and add to her
| charms.
In keeping up with the styles this
autumn considerable latitude Is allowed
| by Dame Fashion for the exercise Of
| personal prejudice and fancies. Tho
girl to whom the severe tailor-made
costume is becoming can have hers as
severe and plain as she wants to: IN
| deed, the palmer and more severe 1t Is
| the better will be the style. But unless
| she is prepared to open her purse wide
and pay good price for the suit she
| had better not attempt It. for the severe
| tailor-made demands perfection OF
| cut and fit and finish which can never
| be attained In cheap. ready-made suit.
| And to pay good price for the best
| tailor work is an economy rather than
| an extravaganza, for the severe style is
| one 50 recently restored to favor that 1t
Will be likely to remain In good stand
| ing for some time to come, and when
we'll tailored. the garments hold their
shape and smartness even to the last
| thread.
Partisan Tailor Made Costumes.
For the girl who cannot carry the
severe styles with a fair measure OF
|
the Partisan tabernacle costume. This.
too, is built upon the best tailor lines.
The same perfection Of style and out
and fit and finish is requisite, but q
greater amount Of trinllning-of fuff-
ness, so to speak-is permitted In this
style, Cunning little capes are posed
across the shoulders and over the sleeve
top. The sleeves themselves are loose
and baggy. and any amount of decora-
ton In the way of tucks and braids and
buttons and embroideries is lavished
upon them. And as for the cuffs, the
designer may give his fancy full swing;
any conceit will be good. The coat
front may be tight and straight, or
sagging a little over the belt. Just as
lest suits the figure. and the short Elton.
which has been so long with us under
one guise or another. Is considered Just
as good style In Paris to-day as It ever
was. Indeed, an appreciate percent-
age of recent mportations show this
fascinating little garment rather than
the long coat and 1t is developed In
such n way and with so many OF the
newest conceits apparent in 1t at the first
glance that there can be no possible
doubt of Its continued popularity.
But 1t is chiefly in tho skirts that tho
difference between the severe and tho
Partisan talor-made Will be most marked.
These latter are trimmed. very much
trimmed. The same braids and buttons
and tucks and embroideries which APP
peared on the coat are repeated upon tho
skirt and where the severe style Will
have the skirt clearing the ground and
finished with velveteen binding. tho
French taior-made skirt will have q
long train, and be distinctly more dressy
In character
Dressy. Fluffy BIouses.
And these Partisan tailor-mades give
delightful opportunity for the wearing
OF dressy, fluffy little blouses, for with
the French style the severe cheyiot or
linen shlrtwaist Is not at all in keeping.
A very charming one was seen the other
day at class luncheon given at one
OF the exclusive New York hotels, 1t was
just such a waist as almost any Girl
might fashion for herself. provided, OF
course, that she had perfectly boned
and fitted lining for foundation. For In