The sun., 1903-12-26
FEE LATEST VISIT 70 LHAsA.

10 the forbidden city Of Lhasa is told In
the January Century by the man who made
the journey. He Is the Rev. Eksi kawa-
suchi, q Buddhist priest Of the Zen sect.
and a man Of the highest type OF the in
tellectual Japanese, His modest and simple
narrative is full OF fascination because
his experiences were unique and remarkable.
His sole object in going to Tibet was to
complete his studies In Buddhism The
Chinese translatons OF the Buddhist scrip
tures. used In Japan, are regarded a. less
trustworthy than the Tibetan texts. he
believed the study Of these texts to be
indispensable to a full understanding OF
the Buddhist doctrines and he was willing
to undergo all hardships and peris to
study his religion at it's fountain head
On May 20 Of this year he safely returned
to Japan after an absence Of six years
from his native land. He had spent sixteen
months at Darjiling In Northern India
in mastering the Tbetan language. To
get into Tibet without exciting suspicion
he was compelled TO travel far west among
the Himalayas He wore the apparel OF
Tibetan lama and passed for a Chinese
student and physician on pilgrimage
his luggage Of books and supplies on his
back, floundering through mountain SHOWS.
carried away more than once by the strong
currents of the ice-cold rivers he had to
wade, thrice set upon by highwaymen. tho
last party robbing him OF everything e1-
cept his books. He was three days without
food, and when too weak to walk further
he sank down to die, but his life was saved
by q Tibetan horseman. who revived him
with tea, cheese and sugar. He was fifteen
months on the way and travelled 24eo
miles from Darjiling to Lhasa, though in
an air line these towns are scarcely 400
miles apart,
DR.. Kawaguchi was very successful in
the role Of Chinese physician. 1t was
not long before his renown a. q healer
opened to him the doors Of many OF tho
great people Of Lhasa. He was so fortunate
a. to form close friendship with Chamba
Choe San, ex-Minister Of the Treasury.
who invited him to live in his house and
gave him access to the libraries In many
Of the temples. In the quiet Of this hospita-
bic homo he had excellent facilities for
pursuing his religious researches. and he
improved the first opportunity to meet
Tue Ddldl ldItlh, ttC Va DeeAs1
and the political ruler Of Tibet. Through
the courtesy Of the Century We are per-
mitted to quote the following:
I was summoned TO nrst audience with the Dalai
Lama on Sept. IS. 1900 being taken 70 the Use Po'
tAla palace by the court doctor. who had offered
me the position Of assistant court doctor to him.
Ny successful treatment OF several dlst'nsu'sned
patients had made me known within the palace
walls and the ruler wished 10 see and talk With the
now doctor The buildings are grouped In imposing
mass on hill 10 the northwest Of the city and from
the upper terraces OF the palace ono sweeps the
great plain surrounded BY mountains and marked
with clusters OF yellow rooted temples. was con.
Quoted through many rooms With nehly decorated
ceilings and walls In Chinese style. and reaching
the presence prostrated myself three times before
his Sublimity the Dalai Lama Of Tibet remained
standing through the rest OF the audience until
kneit 70 receive bis blessing by the placing Of his
hand upon my head. before Withdrawing. He Is
young man. now - years Of age With nne. intelli-
gent countenance. He vas seated In chair. wear
ing she yellow Tatar hood priest covi. and robes
OF yellow silk and red WOOL. with many under robes
OF particolored silks He hold his rosary OF bodhi
tree beads it Of the pipul or DO tree in his left
hand Although the Dalai Lama possesses incred.
ible stores Of gold and Jewels and rosahes OF every
precious material. he carried only this rinple rosary
Of tho priests on each occasion Of my seeing him.
The attendants brought tes In Handsomely carved
silver tea pots. and extending my wooden tea cup.
which every one In Tibet carries with him. drank
In his presence. You must cure my priests" was
his frequent remark but We discussed many other
things.
DR.. Kawaguchi says that few Dalai Lamas
have lived to rule. 1the corrupt ministers
poisoning each one before he came OF age
and setting another infant incarnation in
his place This is the testimony OF all
European and Indian travellers who have
visited Lhasa. Manning who went to
Lhasa disguised as Hindu doctor In 1911,
said the Dalai Lama was a well educated,
princely boy about seven years old. Fsthey
Hue wrote In ls4S that the Dalai Lama was
then nine years old. The Hindu Main
Sing wrote that In 1896 the Grand Lama
was fair and handsome boy Of Is years,
entirely dominated by the Gyalpo or tenn
poral ruler OF Lhasa. Montgomerie rather
darkly hinted that Grand LAmas are made
to 70 through their transmigration very
rapidly, the intervals being probably in
inverse proportion to.the amount Of trouble
they give to the Gyalpo.' Chandra Das,
who, with the Kalmuk Baza.Baza- Bakchi,
was the latest authority on the present
Dalai Lama before DR.. Kawaguchi. wrote
Of him a. "a child Of eight with bright
and fair complexion and rosy cheeks. His
eyes are large and penetrating, the shape
Of his face remarkably Aryan. though
marred by the obliquity Of his eyes"
DR.. Kawaguchi says the Dalai Lama is .
man OF superior courage and excellent
qualities. with great political talents and
resources. He draws an engaging picture
Of this strenuous young ruler, who "has
taken the Government wholly into his own
hands and is endeavoring to reform the
civil service by making appointments to
office according to the personal merits Of
candidates. and to put a stop to the bribery,
corruption and favor!tism at court" Now
that the British are marching toward his
capital. it is particularly interesting to hear
from DR.. Kawaguchi that the Dalai Lama
has recently concluded a secret treaty
with the Czar, and tney have exchangd
presents. Three hundred camel loads OF
presents arrived from Russia in Lhasa in
1902, and among them were rifles Of Amer-
can manufacture. which. however. had a
range OF only 500 metres, Among the gifts
Of the Gear was complete set Of the vest
ments of Bishop OF the Russian Greek
Church, which the Dalai Lama sometimes
wears. He has no idea that the religion
Of the Russian differs from that of the Tib-
etan. He sees the Buriat Mongols, subjects