davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun., 1903-03-22

Now that cloth and even velvet arc 20
wondrously soft and supple. this idea Is
not 30 terrifying as II was in earlier days
and the fall modes may adopt II: but at
present the conservative woman will do
we'll 10 accept the full skirt for her crepes'
fine voiles, mousselines, &C.. but TO retain
somewhat close hip lines In her heavier
street frocks.
One thing IL beyond dispute in the skirt
realm. The trimmed skirt Is dominsnt-not
the shaped and trimmed volant OF old
although that is still shown under various
euises-but the more elaborately trimmed
skirt.
On tailor gowns there is . growing ten
dency toward continuing vertical lines Of
bodice trimmings down the length Of the
skirt. This idea may be developed in
braiding or other characterization merely
down the front breath. or the lines Of plaits
all around the skirt may be defined by the
trimming.
One Of the illustrations shows a front
breadth trimming in spiral Oraldlng. Pssse-
menterie ornaments, often connected
by cords. arc set down the sides Of plain
front breadth, the same oTnaments being
The sun., 1903-03-22

The oorsslet belt must be very carefully
folded and fitted and the jewelled buttons
and long buckles which often ornament It
are things Of beauty. A new black velvet
covered buckle for such girdles has been
introduced by one Paris maker and Is some
times even more effective than the art
noupeau or similar buckle that Ia moro
common.
The buttons Of the season are among
the loveliest,' and In many cases the most
extrayagant Of the dress accessories. Rhine
stone buttons equal in design and setting
to the best old paste jewels are shown In
profusion.
Cabochon stones In all colors are set In
beautiful metal work. Opals and pearls
are initiated for button Use with marvellous
success. The greens Of chrysoprase and
jade are particularly favored In combi-
nation with dull gold or silver.
Gun metal set with jewels or plain In
finish. buttons OF wrought gold or silver,
the old fashioned hand painted china but
tons, buttons with dangling jewel or metal
pendants all these are In evidence and on
the model frocks one sees buttons, covered
with cloth. silk linen or other material
and embroidered to match the coloring
Of the frock.
Other dress trimmings multiply from
day to day. and gain in beauty as they
multiply. Laces. Of course, are in the
lead, but Of laces we have already sung the
praises many a time, The fad for colored
laces increases. and from the colored laces
in Hungarian effects, in yak and in wool
cluny. 10 the softly tinted chan tilly and
Alencon, lace with touch OF color has its
vogue. There is q craze for all OF the
heavy antique laces. and lace oombina-
tons, some Of them bizarre In effect. are
more popular than ever.
Then there are the laces ornamented
with opalescent or moonlight paillettes,
with jewels. with silk embroidery, laoes
The sun., 1903-03-22

and French gowns are often exaggerated
in their emphasis OF advanced modes.
The full skirt illustrates this point. Un-
ouestionably IL In the coming skirt As
matter Of fact. II Is already here.
In the conference at which the most
famous of the Parisian dressmakers
meet each spring, the full skirt was
unanimously approved; but now It remains
10 be seen how radically and how rapidly
the fashionable women will obey the rui-
ing. Laws laid down by the autocrats OF
the Rue de la Paix have often been modi-
fed by the prejudices Of the mondames.
For soft and sheer materials the merits
of the full skirt are obvious and will, per-
hape, be acknowledged by all save very fat
women. but when 1t comes TO less supple
and graceful materials. there will be di-
yersity Of opinion. The severely plain,
close fitting skirt has already been
dismissed from consideration by the
fastidious.
First, fine tucks and plaits crept into the
general design. The plaits deepened and
became more pronounced. though the
around the upper part of the skirt was
preserved.
Then came the skirt yoke with pronounced
fulness below, and that idea Is still with
us, but the enthusiasm with which IL was
hailed has some what subsidized, First there
was protest because an all-around skirt
yoke shortened the skirt length unbeoom-
inRly. In Difference TO this objection, the
skirt with full length side or box plaits,
front or back, and with fat yoke merely
over the hips was devised, and this model
The sun., 1903-03-22

skirt. and that fact compensates for much
wear and tear.
Dre-~y frocks retain their trained length
In many instances, especially when intended
solely for house and evening wear but
even here one notes a slight inclination
toward shortening In the back. and youthful
gowns show only the slightest of sweeps
II the full skirt. the pointed bodioe. Ao..
gain ground. the shortened skirt back
xill In insvitAble.
Nov . word ~ 20 the bodio.-. There
is no truth In ths statement that the pouched
blou-e hes dlsAppeaSvd from ths best
Partisan eo~na il 10 still Ia eyidenos
upon. p~si.sp~. t~o-thinds " tho modsL
but h M lonsss relsns alone, and th.fo are
risns that IL xlll lao siIll mare ~ It's su-
pf.snscy - the r~a-on Adysnoss
~ loi.s a. the e,r--, is Just What n ls
,hsss 10 NJ dispuiias the fasa that ,hs dfOop-
ihs fTon, ilOuse 10 tl,s nio-' I'fantioal and
l.-rDiali.s uf bodio,s. AID u sili oatAinly
10 oofT-s uHouEhou' tlis -aa.on. bui u
The sun., 1903-03-22

applied to the blouse or jacket. Lines o.
ribbon run out upon plain front breadths
from under deep side pleats, and are Finishes
with tiny buttons. 3.
Outside the tailor province. thsre Il
practically no limit to the vagaries in skir,
trimming. Braiding. piping, ruching. mil
liners folds, shirrings. tuckings, laoes
embroideries. passementeries-an run riot
Many French frocks show tablier front
slightly draped. while full nounces OF plsat-
ings appear in the back.
Panniers, too. though Of q very nbdued
and chastened sort. fashioned with tiny
pleats and not bouhant. are shown In place
Of q hip yoke on many house gowns and
evening gowns. usually In company With
the pointed bodice and high girdle. which
threaten the supremacy OF the pouched
blouse. 80
Flounced skirts have q distinct vogue
The flounces may cover only the lower part
Of the skirt and be shirred on full, with
deep headings, or, particularly In the case
OF lace, festooned. or they may cover the
whole skirt. The triple founce skirt 10 q
decided favorite in soft materials. as Ia the
triple pleated skirt and this model gives
an opportunity for the introduction OF
effective trimmings around the bottom VI
each hounce. TX
Some OF the most charming models IN
these triple fiounce skirts have the hounces
cut around their edges into deep scallops
or points and finished with silk button
holing, lace or narrow fringe.
The popular Greek key design. caried out
~. -. L.. Il.
successful trimming for the deep dounces.
and here IL . sketch Of a simple evening
frock Of mousseline the skirt hounoes and
deep bertha OF which have this Greek key
design for their only trimmings. For the
pleated triple skirts straight hands or de-
signs OF lace are inset before the material u
plated.
The nounoed skirts. while picturesqus
and becoming for tho tall slender woman.
were never designed for the woman whose
legs are short " whose hssh 10 'too. too
solid' II sbe must lsad fashions van and
adopt this full skirt. Jet her ksep a. thu long
pleat hn.s. OF 10 skirts such - sv shown In
some of the latest and moss authoritative
models. vlAnh arv merely mounted 10 tie
l~li la plests or gathers and fall full end
unit rsmn~ll-d from tbs waist llns.
Tue full skirt nssd not neosseastly b.
uni--o,s,ing. even to . stout figure. n II Il
we'll cut aud made in cliilxing material.
and u tho b.dlas grid. 10 clsssriv hAndlsd.
10, IA. mndiSL houno-d skirt ls fof ti.s
woman Who has sl.Bi-rn..~ and L.agih.
AID ils, faa sl4ould ls ans-pssd vii,
Is.snailon ~ the "a, al.s short sl-,sI.
hs,,d.
- A.. 49,. .-..-.- - -. -
The sun., 1903-03-22

10. 20 far, perhaps the most satisfactory
among those aoosp,ed for the waking
gowns.
Many of the artists of the hue d" Ia Pair
sr- opposed even TO this yoke coho.sIoi..
and they hav. . o-rtain amount ~ rason
on theb eide. They say What 10 y rieotly
tre. that not ons woman Ia hundreds "
p~rf-ctly IfoportloDsd around ii~ hip.
tia, on. hip 10 invariably la's'r or h,sisr
than IN. oll..T and that ,h' hap yok" 40
o-niuai.s thu d.f.a Oi. dn'ssii.h.f.
.sI.ol.Iy. famous. foI BIZ sknis. ssys
The sun., 1903-03-22
THE NEW SKIRT LINE.
More ,Fulness Seen in the
Latest Models.
CHANGE IN The BLOUSE, ALSO.
The Pointed Bodice and Girdle
In Rising Favor.

DiWersps Opinions Of the Authorities About
the skirt-The Comins Modei-1he
Hip Yoke, the Full SKIRT and the
Trimmed skirt-Distinct Vogue for
Fisunces-As TO the Len IN OF skirts
mo straight Frent Pompadeur
Bodice Wonderful Bu,tons-Novelties
In Trimmings-The Nesligee Gowns.
The conservative woman has fallen
upon troublous times. Modes have not
changed radically in the last few months,
and yet. slowly and insidiously. significant
hints OF coming revolutions have been
The sun., 1903-03-22

for The ssvsrsst of morning promsnsds
freeks.' says another.
ns bodaes furnishes liz share u contra
dic,ioa. 'Tlss pouch has disAppssssd In
Psss.' ssys ono for.isn writer 'Ali
bodice still biouss. save In tbs ssoep-
tieasi Pompadouf model. .sys another.
whai y . Constellation. American woman
70 DO. shsn doososs u fssiion disAsTs-
pro,ssiAy ths nsa~' .s,i-fsc,esv ins'hod
AZ sssstAas ens's aouiss hss la sn sssmi'
as,lea of ,L. sfearh moaiel sosas .sni
ssss ~ ihs l.ssi rsSaslAn LSo.~s tssn
si~se e<.s oil asa s'sss aiass-ass~ IA
stAi.,sa. ssdiy osnalotlns tssaim1-ay, b.i
The sun., 1903-03-22

with incrustations Of cloth az mous.-ilns
or linen. lan-s whose dessns are picked
out With colored wool There seems 10
b. ma snd 10 the variations upon the ons
o-sntral th.nis.
kmbro.d~Ty plays - important . psrt
ss ever an tiss inodish fsock. and whiis
hand es,,soidssy iDtrnd~d exclusively for
,hs gown II sdoSns i- tho top notch of sls-
saBos. u,en are nuinlrfs of einbroidered
hand and motif trimmings in tho ssops
that can 10 u.ud si,h ssrllen' .nea.
hu.-lan ofo.s-r,itah cnilfuld.rlss on silk
oT Lis.n etainiiss. IufAi-l aud bulgarian
'.inlsuid rsr. sh cloih, linen and ev.h upon
lails's aud iimIssd1ur snlifo.darlss aIson
e'sfyti,iis ifun Iaaiii.s ~ silk sauss, ~.
all 81 tii. l-rfyh- VI iiis solaAA siio oanis.,'
AHuid ~ have lssi ifoss ~ oaal "iiisi ',sissea
s.lssssiiy fuf l.d
tflsus hass unin.siaksidp sali=sd .
Lold uIssS Is,lsll-J issvf isnfs. - tlsy did
The sun., 1903-03-22

Pc a. HffNaIaH
80, ssss a assr ssssss-i -sss 49, -
0 sussaasT q saasss tsaaas.sta "A stssf "a
s.<l - sasasaf ices hsfla Z a. a. tlsi
s.sss.s- ass.~ - a. e@aiaf ss.sss - -
fsss sssa-asasaas o. 90 tis-s sf %
.-sl.~s s-~aasal@s ssasf tls ssiassss - ,s.s
The sun., 1903-03-22


career. It appears In host OF materials
and forms, and the sieooHte orders a scarf
TO match hsr nsw frock. quite as matter
OF course.
In chiffon velvet or soft silk the scarf
Is attractive, but It Is In it's ilmy. dlaphanous
form that II is altogether charming ana IL
a beautiful lace scharpe is out OF the ques-
ton because OF its price. the scarf OF chinoh'
mousseline or gauze may be almost a
effective. There is everything In the way
one wears these graceful things. Upon an
awkward woman they degenerate INTO
absurd strings or wads, but when they
cling correctly around sloping shouiders
| and Hoat picturesquely over the gown
front as they should they are delciously
feminine
II would pay a woman whose soul Is not
above chifTons to practise wearing q scar
before her mirror until she has learned
the trick, and there are grandmothers IN
many homes who could give their SELF
suficient granddaughters tips upon grace
full shawl wearing, which has In tailor-made
days become almost lost art.
The airy, oating note OF the seasons
fashions shows itself In unexpected forms.
Gause ruffles. scarfs, fchus trim frocks
Of heavier material in the same color.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1903-11-30
THINKS UNITED STATES
WILL ABSORB AMERICAS
"Imperialist Idea in This Country Will
Involve Reconstruction OF
the Union"

LONDON. Nov. SO.-In an article
quoted by the Berlin correspondent Of
the Times the National Zeitung' an
ticipates that the Central American
States viii be absorbed by their great
northern neighbOr or fall under her in
fuepce. 1t wonders II Mexico and
South America in general Will be able
TO escape their fate.
The opinion is expressed that yam
keed ON" would reach the limits o. its
possibilities when it had usurped she
sovereignty of the American Continent,
just as the real Rome ceased when the
Romans became the lords OF the world.
Possibly, suggests the National lei
tung," the United States may reach the
limits OF its possible achievements be-
fore il attains an object so remote. The
article continues:
.'The imperialist idea necessarily in
wolves the reconstruction of the Union.
A federation Of states is not capable
Of unlimited extension. nor can Il ex-
ercise dominion over territories TIE ex-
tent Of which excels its own.
The United States win hencefOTth
need legions and ships OF ~ar on both
oceans. With militarisn new element
will be introduced in a republic hitheI-
TO exclusively civilian.
The imperialists now see only tho
diverse Of the medal. 1t is TO be hopes
that the reverse may not show them
too late that all human things have
their limitations
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1903-11-30

How much do you want?"
This is a question the clever book
maker never fails 10 ask when GUS
toners apply TO have their checks
cashed after race is completed.
Watch the customers for few min
utes some busy day at the races and
see how many of them viii short-change
themse' ,es when allowed to do their
own figuring.
If the man, not accustomed to playing
the races. is allowed 10 do his own
figuring on dollar bet he has won on a
three-to-One shot he will often call for
only SO when he cashes in. Although he
put up one dollar 10 win three he for
gets that the dollar placed in the hands
Of the bookmaker should be returned,
along with the 50 won.
1t is estimated by experienced racing
men that per cent OF the persons bet
ting at race tracks will figure wrong. If
allowed 20 rely on their own arithme-
tic. Consequently il is vastly to the
bookmaker's advantage to pay bets ac-
cording to the mathematics OF persons
who are not spending their days and
. rights studying dope books.
Men and women who are new al play
ing the races do not care to have il
known that they are not thoroughly
familiar with racing methods and sys-
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1903-11-30
THOUSANDS OF LIVES
LOST IN A TYPHOON
Fleet of 400 Chinese Fishing Junks Of
Swallow Struck by Gale With
Terrible Results.

VICTORIA, B. c.. Nov. 30.-Advices
were received from South China by the
''Athenian'' OF the loss Of thousands OF
lives as a result OF the destruction or
several hundred fishing junks in
typhoon OF Swallow.
The havoc was awful when the gale
swept down on the C-siaese vessels. For
days disabled junks dznted ielplessly
about. their occupants suffering from
thirst and hunger. The Hongkong gov
eminent tender STANLEY rescued a num-
Der. picking up eight jenks and taking
122 r,en of vessels that Tere abandoned.
The Stanley then refused to the rescue.
for the rescued fishermen reported that
there were 800 junks fishing off Swallow
when the typhoon cans on November
T. From the Stanley flfty-seyen dis
abled junks were seen nyins distress
signals. Several Junks were lowed 70
Hongkopg and then a third relief cruise
was made.
Meanwhile three torpedo boat destroy
ers, the naval water boat cherub and a
Chinese cruiser were sent out and res
cusd many. Several hundred men were
taken from wrecked craft suffering
greatly. some being without food or
water from two to I'VE days. or the 400
fishing junks at least 300 are reported
disabled or sunk, and thousands OF lives
were lost
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1903-11-30
BETTORS ON RACES
WRONG IN FIGURES
How Shrewd Bookies Fleece 'Pkers CaShing in
Tickets at Appraisal of the Holder.

TENS Of betting, and they are slow TO
make complaint even IL they discover
after collecting their winnings that they
have not been paid enough money. Then
when they have been allowed to do
their own figuring a complaint TO
bool6maker IS fled with poor grace. and
few persons are willing to admit that
they are not able to do simple sums
which would not be difffcuft for children
in primary grades.
Women are the long-shot players"
an old bookmaker remarked out at Ben
ming yesterday afternoon. ut doesn't
make any difference how bad a horse
is or what his record is you can get
women on him if the odds are big
enough. Only yesterday a well-dressed
woman approached me in great ex-
citement ana asked me if l had any
hundred-to-one shots. When 1 told her
no she looked very sour. Then she said
she had hunch that il she played "a
hundred-to-one shot on the fifth race
she would win hands down.
Many women get advice from clair
vovants on the races and these persons
nearly always advise playing long shots.
The average woman would rather lose
a dollar playing n fifty-to-one PROPOSE
ton than win a dollar where the bet is
at even money.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1903-11-30
NEGROES VICTlMIZED
BY PENSION FRAUDS

CHARLESTON, S. c.. Nov. S0.-Two
negroes. Sam Dolly and Thomas VIII
liams, have been arrested here on
charge Of victimizing negroes living on
the sea islands around Charleston by
means Of pension frauds. ana other ar
rests are expected as the result OF an
investigation by pension officers and the
Federal grand jury. II is charged that
Doily's plan was 20 go among the ne
groes. wearing a sash Of black cloth, to
which many bright metal spangles were
attached. explaining that the spangles
were the insignia OF Government au-
thority. For the sum OF $50, it is said.
Dolly promised TO obtain pensions by
next June for any applicants.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1903-11-30
HOW ROCKEFELLER RAISES
BIBLE CLASS EXPENSES

NEW YORK, Nov. S0.-There was
suspicion OF a twinkle in the eyes Of
the two Central once detectives on
duty IL the Fifth Avenue Baptist
Church, for the protection OF John D.
Rockefeller, IT., yesterday when the
young millionaire addressed his Bible
class on the subject Of ''self-sacrifce."
He urged them TO give more literally.
He said that SIS was needed TO cover the
class expenses each Sunday. and TO raise
them give cents each, fifty Of them 10
cents each, and twenty-five IS cents.
This would aggregate $3.50, and Mr.
Rockefeller expressed the conviction
that the balance could be easily raised
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1903-11-30
GLAD TO GET HOME"
SAID THE COUNTESS

PITTSBURG. Pa. Nov 30.-Traveling
alone. the Earl and Countess OF Var
mouth arrived here saturday night from
New York for visit 10 Mrs William
Thaw. mother of the countess The
couple alighted from the Pennsylvania
Limited at East Liberty. where a car
riage was in waiting. The countess
half ran to the vehicle. but before get
ting inside she greeted the driver with
effusiveness. ooh. George! Is it you?
I am so glad to be at home" The earl
a cigarette in his mouth. leisurely
strolled from the cars, paused few
minutes to speak with few newspaper
men. and Joined tire countess.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1903-11-30
ABYSSINIAN HOSTS
GREET US. CONSUL
Skinner Gets Cordial Welcome From
King Menelik and His People
on Mission.

DJIBOUTIL, French Somaliland, Nov.
3O.-Robert p. Skinner. United states
consul at Marseilles, who is going 10
Abyssinia to conduct negotiations with
King Menelik. witt. his escort, reached
Harrar, Abyssinia, Saturday.
Abyssinian troopg met the jarty eight
miles outside the town, and Gen. Ras
Makonnen. with a bodyguard OF 1000,
greeted the column when within two
miles OF the city. The new palace was
placed at the disposal OF the Americans
Yesterday camp was established and
Gen. Ras Makennen was received with
military honors.
Tho scene was extremely picturesque.
The Americans met with unprecedented
cordially Emperor Meuelik has sent
Consul Skinner a message of welcome.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1903-11-30
LEGAL WAR FOR 100000
BEGUN BY CAPT. CARTER

was studying An expert accountant,
he was at first placed in charge OF ac-
counts in many of the shops. His
health threatened TO break under this
work and he was given outdoor work
For many months he cut the prison
lawns and cared for the flowers. Then
he was assigned 20 the hospital, and
there became an expert nurse and
skilled pharmacist Recently he has
been in charge Of the nurse corps, and
has trained new recruits in the care Of
the sick.
Studied His Own Case.
Along with all this work he carried his
Law studies, and furnished the material
for habeas corpus proceedings Instituted
to obtain his release. He also inter
ested himself in the legal questions in
voived in the cases OF other prisoners.
and became so active in this line that It
was necessary for the. prison officials
to ask him to confne his legal knowl-
edge TO his own case.
Carter had little to do with other pris-
oners His only associate was Captain
Deming. who was released on habeas
corpus proceedings, due IN part to Cap
tain Carriers knowledge Of law. Al
though Carter was kind to prisoners
who were brought TO the hospital and
cared for them skillfully he made friends
with none of them. and devoted all HIS
spare time TO study.
When he first entered the prison. Car
ter was extremely nervous and vas
threatened with collapse. He finished
his work quickly and brooded over his
trouble in his spare time. But this ner-
vousness soon wore away. He became
accustomed to hearing the music in the
ballroom of Hope Hall. where men who
had been his friends In former days
were dancing and making merry.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1903-11-30
Convicted Officer in Chicago
Preparing for Fight.
CONTEST FOR PROPERTY
Former Captain Declares His Innocence,
and Accuses Father in-Law-Stud-
led Law While in Prison.

Well read in law. Oberlin NJ. Carter.
former captain in the United States
Army. who was released from prison
yesterday. is now in Chicago preparing
to make fight for the s7O00 worth OF
property which the United States seized
and placed in escrow when Carter was
found guilty OF defrauding the Gov
eminent on the Savannah Harbor con
tracts.
The late Robert f. westcott. father
in-law OF Captain Carter, and not Cap
tain Carter. is the man who profted
by the frauds effected by Gaynor and
Greene, according to the statements
made by Captain Carter and his attor-
ney, Horace G. Stone
It is alleged by Mr.. Stone that West
colt gave Captain Carter $4,000 with
which to defend himself when charged
with embezziement. This was the share
OF the Westcott estate. which Mrs. Car
ter would have inherited had she lived.
Equipped Himself in Prison.
Mr. westcott is charged with having
been in league with Green and Gaynor.
and Is said to have enjoyed the results
OF their sharp dealings with the Govern
ment.
In his three years and seven months
CT prison life the FORMER captain oe-
voted all his leisure time TO law prepar-
atory TO conducting the suit to recover
his property and clear his name OF the
stain placed upon 1t by his conviction
Confinement has aged Carter He is
now forty-seven years old. When ne
entered the Leavenworth prison he had
few gray hairs. He came out white
headed man, ten years older in appear
ance. Still he has retained his health
and IL entering with vigor upon the
law suit upon which his future depends
Carter was a model prisoner When
he was not working for the prison, he
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1903-11-30
SULTAN'S SUBJECTS
WARNED AGAINST SOAP

LONDON. Nov. 30.-Soaps. cosmetics.
and pomades. in the composition Of
which lard enters have been barred out
or Turkey by the Sultan. Under the
tenets OF the Moslem faith the use cf
any portion of the carcass Of pigs is
prohibited. Recently the Sultan learned
that his subjects were becoming con-
taminated by contact with toilet arti-
Giles composed in part Of lard. An trade
was issued forbidding the sale of such
goods and exhorting the faithful to be-
ware Of the pig.