The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-09-12

previous letters. while the cape effect is TO
be noted in the greater number OF hand
some gowns. Among simpler costumes one
of homcspun. In mixed tans and browns.
with bits of green cloth, comes TO my
memory as peculiarly good and noteworthy.
Its plain f1ared skirt just clears the ground;
Its three-quarter coat Is Snugly ntted ana
made with coat sleeves. The fronts turn
back TO show a narrow vest of the green
and green cuffs held by gold buttons finish
the sleeves.
Carriage and reception gowns promise 10
be superb, but, happily for many for
whom carriage gowns are not o~btalnable,
handsome street costumes always are cor
rect for all Afternoon occasions. a cnaTn-
ing creation that combines veIvet with
crepe de chine Is in an exquisite shade OF
mauve and is slashed somewhat AFTER the
manner of the green model already de-
scribed. The skirt is of the velvet which
is slashed TO form a number of panels,
yet is left intact 10 give a deep yoke Ell
feet. Between these panels are wedge
shaped plisse portions of the crepe. Other
wise the skirt is untrimmed. The bodice is
an open blouse Of the velvet that droops
slightly over the belt to the darts and
elongated slightly at the fronts. Over the
shoulders is a deep cape collar that is
slashed at its edge to reveal a plisse frill
of crepe. At the neck is a tiny Follower
collar of ermine and the blouse opens over
a full front Of white chiffon inset with mo-
tits of cream lace. The sleeves are huge
puffs that are gathered into straight cuffs
below the elbows. wide faring cuffs over
1880 0NAAo
these. Lingerie frIlls are to see extended
use and are conspicuous on many of the
handsomest gowns.
A BEAUTIFUL GOWN.
A most exquisite carriage costume is of
biscuit colored velvet with leavy lace of
the same shade. The skirt is made with a
front panel of the lace, sides and back of
alternate bands of lace and portions of vel
Vet that are, approximately, ten inches wide
and is finished with a hip yoke of lace. 1t
is hung over a foundation of silk draped
with rose colored chiffon and edged with
chiffon ruches and gains an indisputably
soft effect thereby. The bodice is of the
chiffon, full and soft, and overlaid by a
deep cape, of lace with stole ends, which
is further enriched by chiffon flowers and
Is completed by a deep draped belt of rose
colored chiffon. Beneath the edge of the
cape is a plisse frill of mousseline lace
edged and tiny frills of the same form the
boufant sleeves. Many elegant costumes
are made With gown and wrap of one mate
rial. A notable exmple is found in an i'm
ported model of fine cloth in an exquisite
shade OF violet, a color that undoubtedly is
TO have extended vogue. The skirt is made
with a full length front gore and sides
and back that are heightened by a circular
founce. The lower edge of the entire skirt
Is finished with a narrow band of ermine
and, above the fur on the hounce, is a
wide band OF heavy cream Irish lace, while
at the scam, joining the founce to the skirt
are three bands of braid, mauve and white.
The bodice combines cloth with lace and
chiffon and the wrap is a combination of
coat and cape. 1t is circular in shape and
is shorter at the front, longer at the back,
after a manner suggestive of the 1880 pc
riod. but includes big wide sleeves. 1t, too,
is finished with rows of braid and shows
ermine at the edge, but within the sleeves
are plisse frills of chiffon.
Novelties of all sorts appear on every
side. Among what might be called the ex-
traordinary developments | noted a coat
all of white kid and trimmed with bands.
fire etched and touched with bits OF green
In water color. 1t was tight-fitting in
three-quarter length and lined with white
satin. Just what purpose it could well
serve l do not know. but it is new, quite
so, and with the craze for novelty at any
cost that exists in some minds, almost
anything so labeled finds a passing vogue.
A deep girdle of white kid on a gown of
blue wolfe is another curious, but far from
desirable, combination, and so the list goes
on. Painting on silk and mousseline has
been much exploited. Seldom does one see
anything really good or desirable. More
often the color is crude and the design far
from good. Unless work of the III can
Good woven designs are infinitely prefer
able to poor painted ones, let the latter
be exploited as they may.
ELABORATE DINNER GOWNS.
Dinner gowns are of soft and clinging ma
terials and princess models are much liked
by the women who can wear them with
success. An exceedingly charming one is
made Of pale pink chiffon and is shirred to
fit the figure snugly at the waist. over the
hips and to the bust, above which point
there is an unlined yoke of tucked white,
outlined with a bertha of chiffon edged with
a deep fall of lace dyed to match the deli
cate pink. The skirt portion falls full
below the stirring and is trimmed with frills
of lace put on in waved outlines. The
sleeves are shirred to fit snugly from the
shoulders for several inches, then fall in
the big wide puffs of fashion on which,
over the wrists, are narrow frii,s of lace
which match the wider ones on the skirt.
1t would seem that sleeves cannot be toe
big. Many of them are only to be described
as huge, but 1t Is probable that women of
the best taste will not accept such extreme
models. A cloth gown in the new delicate
shade known as oatmeal color, Is in the
severe princess style. but enriched by mo-
tifs of heavy Irish lace which are pure
white in tone. These are large and one
is ample to decorate the front, one the back
OF the bodice while those on the skirt are
irregularly arranged. The bodice is low
with small sleeves of the cloth over which
are caps of the lace and beneath these droop
full soft sleeves of chiffon that take fas-
cinating folds.
Evening cloaks are, if possible, more gor-
| geOus than ever. White cloth appears to
retain its favor, but lace and all luxurious
fabrics ere seen. A Partisan fancy is for
a wrap en- suite with each gown and many
superb creations are shown, but such lux
ury is far from desirable and as a matter
of course, can be INDUCED in only by the
very few. A cloak of lace over chiffon
and lined with silk is shown with a gown OF
lace and chiffon, but cloth. made after pre-
vailng methods, is as beautiful as anything
that the most e~xacting could ask and has
the merit of being wearable with many
gowns. Cape shapes are seen, and many OF
them take the form of shorter fronts with
long backs familiar with all 1880 designs,
but the ample cloak has advantages thai
are all its own. Kimono models are seen
and are graceful worn by just the right
women, but more shapely garments pre-
dominate. Box coats with shoulder capes
and big sleeves, either those gathered into
cuffs or the loose sort, suit the greater num-
Der of figures better than anything else
and mean comfort and elegance in one.