The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1903-06-23
THE ST. PAUL GLOBE TUESDAY, JUNE %, 1905

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costume for summer wear is of check
cred taffeta silk. 1t may be brown and
white. black and white, blue and white
or green and white. but it must show
the pin check. and. if ones figure
makes it permissible, the coat must
reach below the knees.
In planning a skirt and coat costume
the very latest, smartest model is Of
brown and white pin check taffeta. The
coat is made collarless-that is. it has
merely fiat collar of the very new
wood fiber lace in ecru. 1t is made
with merely slight blouse and a box
plated, very long basque coat in ripple
style, we'll fitted over the hips. The
upper part of the coat is also laid in
nat box plaftS and the entire garment
is trimmed down the front with big
brown velvet buttons, Joined with
white silk cords. The sleeve is Just
moderately full. At the shoulder it has
a sloping, quaint effect. and at the
wrist there is a cuff of brown velvet,
over which is another cuff of the
ecru wood fiber lace. The gored skirt is
plainly trimmed, merely with straps of
the self material and velveteen bind
ing fishes the foot. The summer girl
who wears a costume of this sort can
not help but be regarded as a very
fashionably gowned young person.
She must have, of course, a variety
of hats to suit the occasion and to
suit the gowns with which they are
worn. But though they are varied in
style, the majority of them must pro-
ject far out in front. The newest hats
are short at the back. fitting the head
well, and they show decided scoop in
front. For everyday wear hats of
tWo-colored straws are particularly
smart in style, and in black and white
they are much favored. Many times
they are trimmed with nothing but
broad band and bow of black velvet
encircling the wide crown and also
appearing, in loops next the hair under
the br1m. Hats of stitched silk and
stitched canvas are worn for yachting,
racing wear, and the new sailor shows
a very wide brim this year, making it
much more becoming than it has been
In the past, and particularly to this
years summer girl, who invariably
wears a broad shoulder cape of one
sort or the other
Buttons, as trimming, the summer
girl must seriously consider. They
are regarded this year as a fashiona-
bic accessory to the toilet. If your
automobile coat has wide revers, fasten
them back with huge buttons; If your
OF trimming, decorate the straps Of
the skirt with pearl buttons. Big ones
may be used on the shirt waist. and
group of little ones on each tab which
straps the seams Of the skirt.
Tiny silk-covered buttons may be
used to good advantage, outlining the
hip yoke of the skirt or defining the
deep cuff Of a fashionable sleeve. 1t
Is buttonS-buttOns everywhere
whenever there is possible excuse for
them
Then, remember that sun-plaiting is
all the vogue. Have a sun-plaited
skirt if you possibly can, letting the
pleats either fall from the waist line
Or from carefully fitted yoke. There
is nothing more graceful than this
style Of skirt when properly made, but
let the amateur dressmaker beware Of
it: it Is snare and delusion and gem
orally hopeless failure with her.
If you can't afford more than one
summer wrap. then have long sun
plated garment entirely covering the
gown. 1t is the very newest thing to
wear to the races, and for many other
occasions, too. A diStinctively chic
Wooltex wrap is sun plated from the
neck to the hem of the very full skirt
It is made of a very fine quality Of
champagne color mohair Sicilienne,
with black taffeta scarfs, giving a
touch Of character to the wrap. The
waist portion shows a slight blouse all
the way around, and is confined at the
waist line with broad stitched silk
girdle, made over a featherbone foun-
dation. The girdle is the same shade
as the Sicilienne Over the shoulders
fall an exquisite collar or eeru convent
lace, finished with a deep border oS
ecru silk-knotted fringe. At the neck
and also at the waist line in front are
scarfs of black taffeta. knotted and
having long ends, finished with black
silk tassels
This wrap has a decidedly quaint
style, which is one Of the new features
OF the summer modes.
The shirred sleeve and the skirt,
with some sort of novel yoke are i'm
portant features in the newest summer
gowns. A decidedly new shaped yoke
is the one that not only covers the hips
but reaches down in points almost to
the knees in front. A yoke of this
style is generally hand embroidered
and the silk embroidery is then intro
duced on the gown in the collar, yoke
and cuffs. The latest yoke is in the
shape of shield and may be hand en-
broidered or made of ribbon and fagot-
ing.
The shirred sleeve is one Of fashions
newst models. The shirring is arrang-
ed in groups, the sleeve closely follow
Ing the contour of the arm above the
elbow, but falling extremely full below
1t. Generally the fullness is confined
at the wrist in band cuff
The new evening gowns are such a
delight to the eye that one forgets en-
t1reiy the money that they have cost
and the labor that has been expended
IN fash1oning them. Though they are
extremely elaborate, yet the new mod
els are so artistic that they never for
moment look overburdened with trim
ming. A charming model for a sum-
mer girl to copy is an airy frock Of
pale rose-leaf pink chiffon. The upper
portion Of the skirt and the dainty
blouse waist are entirely tucked. The
trimming consists Of real Brussels lace
appliques and black velvet ribbons.
which are decorated with little cream
lace motifs. An especially new feature
OF the picturesque sleeve Is It's long
pendant lace-trimmed drapery. which
falls far below the hips.
The summer girl this year is very
particular about her coiffure. and
whenever she goes automobiling. TO
the races, or is off for a day in the
| country, she is very apt to confine her
| coils of hair in one of the hair nets
which are so fashionable this summer
FOUGHT MEXICAN DWARFS.