The daily morning journal and courier., 1903-08-15
OVER THE ANDES.
RRoM LAKE TITICACA TO THE
 CAPITAL OF BOLIVIA.
Trials of Travellers in south America Journeying Among the Andes in a Four Wheeled Carriage.

Four Wheeled Carriage.
 Special Correspondence of the Journal
 and Courier.)
 La Paz, Bolivia, July 2, 1903.
 Since Chile siezed Bolivia's only sea- port few years ago, there is no way to reach the capital of the latter country from the Pacific except by an intermin- able journey on mule-back across painless desert, or via the Mollendo and Puno railway to Lake Titicaea, thence by steamer to Chililaya. and thence by diligencia fifty-six miles to La Paz, the Bolivian capital. As the last named vehicle makes the round trip once a week, ones journey must be timed by steamer to meet it. Of all the undesirable places, to stay in, Chililaya would be about the last one would se- lect. Not only it's altitude-thirteen thousand feet above the sea, which brings on sirroche at the slightest exer- tion, but it's one so-called "hotel'' is a place whose terrors the tourist is strongly advised to avoid if there is any other alternative. Chililaya's principal street struggles for some distance along the lake, exposed to the chilly winds thatsconstantly sweep that highest nav igated water on the globe, while colder airs, blown from Andean snow fields on the other side chill the very marrow in ones bones. One incident only fingers in my memory in connection with our few hours stay in Chililaya. We were invited to the house of an hospitable German. where luncheon was served; in course of which the host politely in- quired of one of our party where the ladies were going. "All over South America, was the reply. They are travelling for pleasure" "Mein Gott in Himmel!" calculated the astonished Teuton. lifting his eyes and hands heavenward. 'sTrabbling for pleasure and in Bo-Iee-fia!" . .
 The diligencia is a numbering coach of the oldest Concord" pattern, rehem- bling an ark more than a carriage, with four seats inside of it and several perches on top, which by tight squeez- ing can be made to accommodate CD from fifteen to twenty passengers. The fare one way is five dollars for each person. This, however, does not include luggage, all of which should be. sent the day before to the coach office, or it will follow later, time being taken to weigh each piece and charge for it an ,a-a otrc, fr 0f %E..on InI1 dred pounds; and then it is sent in freight wagons when not forgotten, Everywhere in South America. espec- ially in these out-of-tlle-way parts, the tourist will do we'll to keep a sharp eye on his own baggage, or the chances are ten to one that it will be left behind. If no trunks are to be found when you have waited a reasonable length of time, there will be profuse apologies on the part of the powers that be and no end of assurances that the missing ar ticles shall be forwarded at once to your address. But don't you believe word of 1t, though the promises are probably made with the best intentions. Being no check system, there is no way of identifying stray bags and boxes, and the employees are much too careless to be trusted. At any rate a great many things disappear somehow on this short journey between Titicaca and Bolivia's capital as mysteriously and completely as if the earth had opened and swal- lowed them. The start from Chililaya is made promptly at a. m. and as the officials will not send the coach to your door, you must get yourself and your luggage to the coach office as best you may. If the mountain will not come to Mahomet, Mahomet must go to the mountain. Despite the absence of breakfast (which you could not possible procure anywhere in Spanish America before 10:30 a. m, storms cold, slrroche or whatsoever may betire, you start off with strange feeling of exhileration having had your cup of coffee and but terless loaf of crusty bread the size oi your fist. Breakfast will be had some- where along the road toward the mid dle of the day, and you will dine at the Journeys end. # >.se ,.. .."=
 Besides the stage, there is another vehicle that may be hired for private use if one's purse is long enough. It is called ''Tillbury" from the name of the English manufacturer and is an odd cross between a double phaeton and 8 Black Maria. A days use of it costs anywhere between thirty and one hun dred dollars, according to the mood oi the owner and the exigencies of the oc- casion. If your need is great, such, fol instance, as having to convey an inva- lid who could not possibly endure the crowded coach, the highest price will invariably be charged; but if you art careful to display no eagerness and are ! only an ordinary travel-stained pilgrim < without any indications of wealth about you, you may get the Tillbury as low as thirty dollars. It is an open, two' seated vehicle and only four persons including the driver, are permitted tt ride under any circumstances.
 Think of being wf1frled over the An des sitting at ease in a four-wheelet carriage! We have crossed and re crossed these mighty mountains ii many places, generally on mule-bacl over perilous trails; and I am glad tt tell you that, though grand and pic turesuue from any point of view, thu Andes can nowhere be seen with great CT satisfaction than on the easy roat between Chililaya and La Paz.
 The vast plain of which Lake Titica ca is a part lies at mean elevation o thirteen thousand feet and is one hun dred and eighty leagues long by thirty