The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-12-19
NEW GOWNS AND WRAPS
FOR CHRISTMAS WEEK
Holiday Festivities Will Bring
Out Much Gay
Attire.
THE FAVORED FABRIC
In These Costumes Hints of
Spring Styles May Be
Found.
FABRIC

Correspondence of the indianapolis Journal.
NEW YORK, Dec. 17.-Christmas means
house parties galore, out-of-town frolics,
fetes. all sorts of merry times and games.
More and more do we grow toward the
English idea of country holidays. Year by
year we see more homes, and yet more,
closed for the holiday week. Trains are
crowded. Ticket sellers are busy. Cabs fly
hither and thither, and all sorts of happy,
laughing groups are to be met en- route at
even this early date. AS a result, dress
makers are busy, wardrobes are being re-
newed, pretty gowns galore are being de-
signed. and there is a general airt of ac-
tivity in the sartorial world.
While / cannot say that there are any
definite changes in design or that radical
differences will be apparent in these holi-
day garments, hints of spring are already
afloat, and suggestions are to be CLEANED
that will be of service later, as well as for
immediate use. For handsome street gowns,
for dinner gowns, for reception gowns, for
evening gowns, nothing seems quite so
smart as the chiffon velvet that has taken
us ali by storm. 1t is made up into all
these different costumes, and is marvel
ously beautiful in them all, but for the
sturdy costume of walking, which no coun-
try outfit can be without. cloth. zibeline,
homespun and hopsacking are given first
place. The more elaborate sorts mean
short, jaunty little coats with half lace
sleeves, but the more practical ones con-
tinue to be made with long fitted coats and
skirts that just clear the ground. Bits of
red on gray and mixtures are much liked,
and one sees, much plain cloth on rough,
while the number of velveteen suits is by
smart
these last has just been finished for blonde
girl, and is rich royal blue in color, made
with plain skirt and coat, the seams al
strapped with cloth of the same shade, and
collar and cuffs of cream, edged with a
tiny cord Of gold. 1t sometimes seems as
though a touch of the military was needed
to make the feminine heart really glad, so
persistent is the use OF gold and SO eagerly
is it welcomed. l may have told you IN
previous letters of the favor shown plaid
skirts with military coats in black or blue.
but If not you will be glad 70 learn OF ~
now for the c3mPip 1 is , most t, add
that plaids will be prime fayorites for
spring.
HOUSE GOWNS IMPORTANT.
The woman who joins holiday house
party, however, is far more concerned as
to her indoor gowns than those of outdoors.
1t may storm. 1t may be impossible to
walk, but whatever the weather, lights
will shine within, dinners will be given.
dances enjoyed. To be sure, if she be wise,
she will look to 1t that she is equipped and
| will order a skating costume chic as
she can afford In the hope of fun on the
ice. but the fact remains that indoor gowns
| will be I'm certain demand. The latest and
newest decree is for the princess effects
| that have steadily been gaining favor the
| autumn through, and the lovely chiffon vel
vets suit them as no other fabric can or
| does. AS rule the gown Is not of the Sc
we're sort originally known by the name.
We have learned better than to insist on
| anything trying, and it required sylph
| to wear a gown of that sort with effect.
The modern up-to-date princess gown is a
| concession, or adaptation, and most
| beautiful one. Skirt and bodice are sell
| dom in one, but are connected by a wide
| fitted girdle that unites them and leaves
! no definite line of division, while yet al
| lowing greater freedom than the gown cut
| all in one. The girdle extends a little be-
| low and well above the waist. is most care
| fully shaped and includes seams and trim
ming that form continuous lines with bod
ice, and skirt A most lovely one that
peach pink chiffon velvet studded with ir-
| descent pearl sequins, and made with
unlined yoke and wide sleeves of cream
lace. The material and the color scheme
| are both lovely and the ensemble not
TO be forgotten. AS matter of course
there are founces, %, OF inset fulines ESQ OF
| ders last skirts must be full and fiaring.
| else what curious pictures We should pre-
| sent.
| Visiting gowns are made with the full
skirts and short coats, with which We have
grown familiar. but show a tendency to
over the hips. 1t has been well and wisely
| said that the American woman will not
! long be content with any style of dress that
hides the lines of her well-formed figure
! Already there are signs of dissatisfaction
with the shirrings and plaits over the hips
| and fancy early spring will see them done
| away with in part at least. Flounces to
| knee depth are being hailed with enthusi-
asm and in them can be found ali the full
| ness desirable. The little coats or the
| blouses all show the dropping shoulder
| line, and are, for the most part made with
| sleeves that are a mass of lace frills be-
| low the elbows. Fur coats so made with
velvet or cloth skirts are much liked, but
wise women order the lace over founda-
ton that means warmth. for, let Dame
Fashion decree what she will, she cannot
| alter the fundamental principles of health
| and every physician Will tell you that ex-
| posed wrists and ankles mean chill. Never
| have seen fur SO handled and so trimmed
| L am by no means sure that find the re-
| suit always desirable or satisfactory but
| the tendency exists and is to be noted
| Bits of colored cloth are inset or applied to
| Persian lamb. Persian embroideries are SO
used and many similar things are done.
| To my taste cuffs. collar and vest are hand
| some, but these fussy things are far from
| being really so.
| THE SEPARATE WAISTS
| Waists to be worn with the jacket or
coat suit always make a question of in
| terest. To say that odd ones are not worn
is to be simply absurd. for no woman of
discretion wears a cloth bodice, but they are
not the startling contrasts they were once.
Silk the color of the gown is good, but lace
with a garniture that connects it with the
skirt is newest and smartest of ali. For
example the coat and skirt may be violet
cloth, the bodice heavy cream lace with a
design of bow knots across the front of
velvet ribbon, violet like the cloth. shirred
through the center, or in some other way
the color os the material is introduced sug-
costing the fitness of the waist to that
special gown. Champagne shades are much
| liked, much worn and cream lace so treat
| ed makes ideal waists
The 1880 tendency continues to run gaily
on These holiday frocks give abundant EVIL
dence thereof We f1ounces galore and
will, / doubt not, see still greater num-
bers as spring draws near but so far that
old friend, the circular fiounce, is found
only as a foundation for frills or for ruches
Charming afternoon gowns, without which
the holiday outfit would be sadly incom-
plete, are made with these ruches and in
quaint old-time designs. modified, that are
most effective A really lovely silk gown
| shown me to-day is made OF the new soft