Evening star., 1903-09-26

ever. running to all sorts of pleated and
slashed devices. which hang from yokes
covered In turn by the popular deep collar.
Whatever trimming is employed upon tho
jacket may appear upon the skirt, but
many quite fixy little coats may be ac-
compliShed by skirts entirely plain. A new
skirt model of exceeding becomngness is
shown by the blue and green gown already
described. A double overskirt look is made
at the front and sides but the back hangs
in a single shaped box pleat
Contrasting trimmings of all sorts are
used upon street suits. the most stunning OF
which are in iron gray with touches of
some rich color. A simple device with quite
a stately result is to trim the apron OF the
skirt alone, the decoration likewise decreas-
ing the width of the already narrow
breadth.
Apropos of this narrow front gore, a
clever dressmaker gives a list of the four
qualities necessary for a perfect costume.
Four Essentials.
First-Long shoulders.
Second-Sleeves big at the bottom.
Third-Skirt close at hips and wide at
hem.
FOurth-Narrow apron gore.
Oh for the chance to stir the receipt in
some magic bowl and bring forth the Gre
alton Of our dreams In default OF this
we turn to the shop gown-and how perfect
1t Is even If domestic made. The French
Importation is more perfect, Of course, and
now 1t appears with numberless new
charms among which Is Swedish en-
broidery, done in reds and blues on under
wear
Wraps in a charmingly becoming form.
but which run the risk of exaggeration, are
the short stole capeS patterned after the
dolman wraps of other days. These are
for the moment at a most graceful stage,
the stoles dropping to the knees and the
lace and silk quillings which hang below
the cape proper reaching just the correct
stage of voluminousness.
Costumes for late autumn will be fire.
quently made with these capes, whose trim
mings in such cases will, of course, match
such shoulder coverings are part of the
bodice itself. and this may show skirts or
tails of many sorts.
Bisque and Black.
A charming visiting gown made with
dolman cape is of bisque cloth with bias
bands of black velvet One of these heads
the deep gathered iounce Of the skirt and
another decorates the collar portion Of the
cape Below this collar the cloth. which Is
in very silky quality, hangs In an un-
trimmed pleated fiounce. Large white pearl
buttons fasten the stoles. and each Of these
is flanked by a tab of the velvet. creating
the effect of monumental buttonole.
A number of short jackets are seen which
suggest capes in cut and If the cape idea
is not demonstrated elsewhere 1t will ap-
pear in the collar. Large buttons with
drop pendants in gimps of many sorts are
used upon capes and coats. and SO much
is the purely ornamental admired that such
decorations are initiated In Jet and felt
braid upon hats.
Just here word about hats, which are
once more taking to feathered cruelties.
Never, surely since the sixties Of the last
century, when, 1t seems, millions of dead
warblers decked the head of woman. have
such vast numbers of birds been used upon
female headgear For instance, a panne
hat in a deep blue has a wreath Of tiny
blue birds seeming to roost at one side upon
a twig. Doves that will never WOO again
lie fatE side by side upon crowns, their