davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-06-28

Philadelphia Ledger.

Philadelphia Ledger.
We have been requested by a masculine
member of society to say something on
the subject of neatness as womanly vir-
tue. Neatness, that is to say, in personal
adornment.
He says that so far as his observation
goes, it is an attribute much lacking in
woman. She loves to wear fine clothes,
but she puts them on carelessly. She
yearns for the newest and most expensive
hats, but sets them on top of hair more
or less disheveled. She imagines that the
sweeping folds of her skirt will altogether
conceal from view a bit of dangling thread
a fragment of torn skirt braid She is
not so particular as neatness requires over
the spotlessness of her linen collar. She
does not hesitate to wear solid gloves. These
and sundry other minor sins are laid to her
charge by the masculine critic.
Only, he does not consider them minor.
He thinks them of grave and serious char
acter, and asserts very positively that no
woman can hope to be well dressed or at
tractive in appearance who lacks the quail
ity of neatness.
At first thought one is inclined to quib-
comes to mind which one could not con-
scientiously describe as meat Try to
think Of the prettiest head I'd Of o, hair
ebony hued tresses so softly clouding
white forehead. were not-well, you would
not think of calling them neat, would you?
We used to read about shining coils"
smoothly braided hair" and so forth,
these words calling up delightful vision
of neatness; but, then, those heroines were
not picturesque, were they? They do not
appeal to our sense of the artistic.
All, but, after ALL the artistic effect for
which we crave is not that of careless
ness, but of careful carelessness. Pretty,
fluffy curls resting on a flushed cheek
produce a very different impression from
that other of struggling ends of hair. Ana
lyze the charm of personality in any wom-
an, and it will be found in her complete
womaniness, which is surely incompatible
with untidiness. Call up the image of a
really charming woman, and behold the
careful attention given to every detail of
dress.
We are obliged to indorse the verdict
quoted in the beginning. Neatness is mas
culine virtue which every woman would do
well to copy. A freshly Numbered shirt
waist trim shoe, a well fitting glove
these are more important than shabby "trip
peries. To quote our critic, "A neat woman
looks better dressed in 81 suit than a
woman who is not neat in $40 one.''
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-06-28
Mb ILLUSTRATED }W
m F A s HIO n S m

coIors can be had as well as insertions, so
that the gowns can be easily made by
matching the plain nainsook with that used
in the founce. There are all-over embroid-
cred nainsooks that come very wide, and
that make up exquisitely in shirtwaists or
suits. The seated figure of these pictures
displays a white embroidered nainsook
made up with plain nainsook and trimmed
with black velvet ribbon.
Fagoting is at the height CT its stylish
ness. Many seven-gored skirts have their
breadths fagoted together, the fagoting
often being so coarse as to show a half
inch or even more of openwork. 1t makes
a pretty trimming, but IL one is unfortu-
nate enough to catch II anywhere 1t makes
a sad mess, as il gathers I'D the whole
length of the skirt. A very pretty model
in a red and white foulard had its cores
fagoted together in this manner,
and each gore was tucked all
over so that il made very
elaborate model A moderate use of this
ornamentation is shown in a street gown
of these pictures. Its material was white
wolfe. Plain black taffetas show much
fagotting, and so do pongees and China
silks One white China silk had its yokes
to skirt and waist and the fiounce at the
bottom of the skirt fagoted. Then each
skirt gore had two insertions of white
valenciennes lace set in. There is a deal Of
work in such a gown, but if made care
fully so that the lace is in strongly, the
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-06-28

have to frame up many schemes to success
fully accomplish their mission.
The New York milliners do not want their
Paris model hats copied. of course-they
want to force the ''provinciar' women to
come or send to New York for their mil
llnery. And the visiting out-of-town mil
at the new Paris things in headgear has
her work cut out for her.
They spotted they enter
the importing emporiums-it is even said
that several such establishments employ
private female detectives at this season to
make the rounds of the hotels and famil-
liners faces-and when they spotted it
is nary peek that they get at the Paris
hats, except those that are on display.
But they have ruses, too complicated to
be described in detail, for seeing all that
they want or need to see in their line of
business. They have got to have we'll
They fix firmly in their minds the shapes
and trimmings of two or three dozen hats
day, and directly they return to their
hotels they set down in their notebooks
their memorized descriptions of those hats,
down TO the tiniest and most inconsequen-
tial detail.
1t is the same with the vast numbers of
women dressmakers from all sections of
the country who come here to view the i'm
ported styles at the great importing houses.
They. too. have schemes whereby they
ers to keep them from seeing the new Gre
ations. The fashionable woman dressmaker
from Minneapolis, for example, has a Min
neapolis chum, who is the New York buyer
for Minneapolis department store.
As the dressmaker is a patron on a heavy
scale of the Minneapolis establishment. IL
is to the buyers interest. aside from her
chumminess with the dressmaker, to be nice
to the latter Well, the dressmaker from
Minneapolis makes her summer visit to
New York In company with the Minneapolis
buyer, when the latter Is on a genuine buy
ing mission I'm the metropolis.
The dressmaker accompanies the Mime
apolis woman buyer on all of the latter s
rounds of the importing houses The i'm
porters have got to show the bona fide buy
er what new things they have in stock
and the dressmaker is at the buyers side.
III is easy.
And so, when the dog days come around.
the army of women buyers and women
lockers depart from New York with stuffed
notebooks. many memories, and, as often as
not. that tired feeling.
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-06-28
ONE wOMAN's WORK.
Miss Helen Miller Gould Has summer
Visitors.
Boston Transcript.

Boston Transcript.
No more felicitous thought fol-. the happi-
mes and healthfulness of neglected city
in motion by that modest daughte- OF
American patriotism. Miss Helen Miller
Gould. This week she took the first 81 her
boys from New York tenements-to her
country home among the tree-clothed hills
of Westchester county. New York, and the
big lawn about Woodycrest VIII resound
all summer long to the shouts Of happy chill
dren at play. No sweeter music, one Is
sure, can fall the of the winsome
hostess who joins heartily in all the good
times: and small wonder that she is adored
has given not only the delights and joys
Of a summer outing, but the inestimable
opportunity for special culture and or
training for life-work which would other
wise be denied them All over the land-if
II were possible to call the roll-there is
a great and growing company that would
have been enabled by her recognition or
their unusual aptitude-her discovery or
them-to rise out OF the ranks OF mediocre
ty to higher positions and usefulness. IL
is apropos to note that In a recent inter-
view she has said: 1.-THE hardest thing Is
to see real ability fighting against odds.
with no one TO help and encourage. That
seems the worst. And i think we all
ought to make il possible for such ones to
get little encoura cement and help. When
a boy or girl Is deserving OF credit II
should be given unstintedly. We don't as
a rule, receive enough encouragement in
this world. Certainly not the poor Every
body seems so busy and intent upon maxi
ing his own way in the world that he for
gets to drop a word OF cheer for those who
have not been so fortunate by birth or sur
roundings." Miss Goulds annual income
amounts, it is stated, TO 100000 a year.
or nearly 5000 a day. OF this. II Is said.
the smallest sum Is spent on herself The
largest part is given secretly TO the poor
and struggling. Miss Gould's unearned re-
sources seem practically inexhaustible. But
IL making others happy is the real peren-
NAL source of enjoyment in life that Is a
vastly more illimitable account which she
is laying up for herself In the bank OF
hardness.
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-06-28
Her Happiest Day.

Philadelphia Telegraph.
=" hat, in your opinion, is the happiest
day in a womans life?''
Goodness gracious, Dorothy, why are you
forever exploding such frightful questions
in our midst? / never know what you are
going to come out with next"
"well, what do you consider the happiest
day in a woman's life?" persisted.
A brief silence fell upon the group Of
girls gathered in Amy's studio.
1.-The day she sails for Europe for the
first time" said the girl who likes to
travel.
1.-The day her baby first lisps mother"
ventured the young matron.
Every day when her husband comes
home from business" contributed the bride.
1.-THE day she receives a letter from the
publisher saying her first book is accepted"
voted the scribbler of the party.
1.-THE day the man she loves asks her to
be his wife, said the dreamy-eyed girl, me-
chanically twisting ring on her finger.
1.-The day she doesn't have to attend
club meeting" remarked the tired-looking
club woman.
All this while the thoughtful looking girl
in the corner had said nothing.
IT'S your turn, Isabel" chorussed the
others.
There's such a difference" she began,
abstractedly, between pleasure and happi-
ness. One may have many red-letter days
out the ndppleSt udy-! IN tne truest sense
of the word, ii seems to me, IL would be the
day when she comes TO a realization that
she can face the future without fear or
lack of faith. the day when she knows
without doubt or shadow of turning that
good is the stronger force in the universe,
that JOY is around her on all sides and in
many forms. If she will but see il, and that
the greatest joy Of all awaits her when she
joins her loved ones in the Far Country.
/ think the day she can accept with shin
ing face this faith knowing ii will light
en- and brighten her path to her journeys
end, Is the happest day in her life. And
il is a happiness that abides."
And the light-hearted girls in the studio
grew suddenly silent, for they knew she
was one of those who had come through
great tribulation.
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-06-28

cent models. and prettily. too. the means
being weighing. rather than stitching
down. which makes the arrangement too
stiff and set. One method has narrow
bands Of the dress material stitched several
times and run through the meshes of the
lace at the bottom OF the collar. Where
the band from the back and that from the
front meet and on the corners at the back
OF the collar large buttons are put. All
this gives weight enough to insure perfect
ut and stability to the refractory collar.
Another pretty idea was shown on a blue
wolfe with eide collar Of white antique.
Stitched bands OF wolfe were adorned with
large appliqued grapes of the lace pattern
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-06-28

The lifeless taste of boiled water will
1t is said, be removed If the water Is beaten
just before being poured with a Dover egg
beaten.
1t is too bad that the dyed pongees will
not stand the Almost all the delicate.
pastel shades are said to fade RAPIDLY when
worn in bright sunshine
If the hands are well-powdered with tai
cum De1ore putting on kid gloves in sum-
mer, there will be little danger of the gloves
being ruined by perspira ton.
Broken bits of icorice sprinkled about
pantry shelves will. 1t is said. Danish red
ants. Borax is also useful. the crystal and
not the powder being preferred
When obliged to keep food warm while
awaiting the arrival OF late Corners. cover
IL with a pan and set over a vessel filled
with hot water. This will keep it warm
without drying
definitely, in fact-by keeping them under
glass. II laid on a fat surface and covered
by an inverted goblet they will neither mold
nor dry up II Is even said that they can
be preserved for six months.
The floral sash is one of the novelties
Usually, 1t Is merely soft ribbon or silk
muslin affair, with sprays OF dainty flowers
sewed on here and there. In some instances
Jne roses seems 1o to be really gsranded
for very young girls evening wear.
In England women are wearing shoes to
match the costume In color, whenever this
Is practical. In rich dark green, with oxi-
died buckles, royal blue. mauye of a dark
shade. and red, with stockings to match
they would look odd to American eyes
that is, until they were pronounced the
correct thing.
Black lace which has become rusty I'm
the course OF many years wear can be
freshened UP by soaking in a solution OF
vinegar and water. Two tablespoonfuls of
the vinegar to pint OF water makes a
good solution. Allow the lace to lie in il
for several hours. then rinse in cold coffee.
and iron while damp.
Potatoes roasted In the pan with bsef or
mutton are knowp - b palatahle. but not
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-06-28
WOMEN In CHURCH GOVERNMENT.
In the Newest Sect Pretty Much Every.
thing In I'm Their Hands.
Harper's Weekly.

HarperS Weekly.
The question OF the eligibility of women
TO serve on vestries is a good deal discussed
nowadays in the councils and conventions
of the Episcopal Church. The vestrymca
are the civil officers OF the churches.
and, unlike the wardens. do not necessarily
incur the imputation OF piety by holding
office. Their most important duty Is TO
see to IT, with the wardens help. that the
temporal affairs OF the church are prudently
conducted and che bills paid Strong
churches. in cities, commonly have no
trouble In getting suitable vestrymen. but
weak churches are often hard put TO IL to
nil out decently their tale Of officers, be-
cause while they may have nj women
enough TO manage their concerns, there are
sometimes not enough men who are decent
ly available even as figureheads. IL is not q
that is commonly determined not by Office.
but by force OF position. energy and charac-
te. Women have voice enough In churches
IL Is only a question whether they shall
act directly or indirectly. In most OF the
older churches tradition and conservative
sentiment favor the employment OF men
TO pass the plate and perform the other
official acts. but In the newest church OF
all-that Of the Christian Scientists-the
power and the glory seem TO have gravitat.
ed so overwhelmingly TO womenkind that
IL may be no need Is felt 20 prefer men a.
the representatives OF church government.
The question is curious rather than Inn
portant, and, however the church authori-
ties settle IL. the indispensable support OF
pious women will not fail them. nor will the
wishes OF the churches Indispensable SUD
porters fall ia b respected :
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-06-28
What to Eat.

Kansas City Journal.
Spring Onions on Toast-The following
recipe is suggested for those who object to
onions because Of their strong odor and
taste:
Wash bunch of young onions and slice
rather fine: cover with cold sailed water
and let heat to boiling point, then drain
and cover with fresh sailed cold water. Let
boil for ten minutes uncovered. then drain
again, season with white pepper; add a ia
blespoonful of butter; dredge over them
a tablespoonful of flour, add a cup Of milk
and shake the pan well over the fire to mix
the contents, when they boil UP well turn
over nicely toasted slices of bread, gar
nish the edge of the dish with points of
toast and parsley and serve very hot.
Stewed Watercress-Trim off the coarse
ends of the cress, wash it well through sew
eral waters and then throw into a sauce
pan of boiling sailed water, cook until just
tender, but not too long. Drain and press
out all the water Melt two ounces of
butter in a sauce an, add the cress, sprinkle
with little flour, stir carefully over the
fire for ten minutes; then pour In cup OF
good broth, season with a little grated nut
meg, salt and pepper; boil ten minutes
longer, stirring constantly. Turn into a hot
dish, garnish with croutons of fried bread
Spinach French Style-Cut off the stalks
and wash thoroughly a peck of summer
spinach. Chop fine and put into a sauce
pan with an ounce of butter and grating
of nutmeg. Stir with wooden paddle and
let it cook for five minutes. Cream an
ounce of butter with two tablespoonfuls of
flour and two tablespoonful of powdered
sugar, stir into the spinach with a cup of
milk. Stir and cook for ten minutes, then
serve with garnish of fried bread crou-
tons.
Sauted Okras, Creole Style-Wash pint
of green young okra cut in pieces cross
wise and place in a porcelain-lined stew
pan, cover with boiling sailed water and
simmer gently for half an hour, then drain.
Put two tablespoonfuls of butter in a
saucepan; add medium sized onion and a
green pepper minced and cook slowly until
a golden color; then add two or three ripe
raw tomatoes, peeled and cut in pieces,
a pinch of salt, little pepper, a crushed
Glove of garlic and two tablespoonfuls of
pepper sauce. Add the okra, cover and cook
for about quarter of an hour. Turn into
a hot dish, sprinkle little minced parsley
on top and serve.
Stuffed and Braised Green Peppers
Wash as many large green peppers as are
needed cover with boiling water and let
them stand over the fire for five minutes,
then drain and rub off the skins with a
damp cloth. Cut out the stem and scoop
out the seeds and remove the tough veins.
Make a stuffing with bread crumbs moist
ened with tomato juice and an equal guam
| THY of any cold, minced meat; season with
| salt and pepper; replace the stems, stand
| the pepper in a baking pan or dish and
| cover them. Cover the pan and set il in
| a moderately hot oven and braise for half
an hour. Make a brown tomato sauce by
| adding thick stewed tomato to the reduced
| gravy or broth. Place the peppers in the
| center of a hot dish and pour the sauce
around them
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-06-28

finely. There is hardly any wear out to
these waists, and so, even II they are ex-
pensive in the beginning. they are econom-
ical. Pure white waists in heavy linen are
a wise investment, as the linen-colored or
other shades cannot be boiled. so require
much rubbing to get the dirt out of them
and soon will become worn out in wash
ing.
A handsome lace for trimming dressy
gowns is lierre. 1t is very fine and delicate
and has what appear to be petals of flowers
appliqued all over it. 1t comes IN colors.
as well as in black and white. Some of the
larger lace medallions employed in skirt
trimmings come in squares as well as cir
cles and are very deceptive to the unini-
tiated- One shopper at the counter where
medaIlions are displayed. studied the diff
ferent patterns closely for time and final
ly ordered a dozen of the right size for
finger bowls. She was astonished when the
clerk told her that she was looking at dress
trimmings, and declared her belief that
half the women who displayed such big
medallions in trimmings were using old
doilies In shape and size the two are
almost identical.
A new silk that bids fair TO have many
users is called grisaille or boar silk. 1t is
about as heavy as taffeta, but has a deal
more firmness and is said to wear we'll. II
Is seen most in grays that take gun metal
effects, but 1t is likely to appear in all
colors.
Bathing suits are displayed conspicuously
in the stores. and many of them are very
pretty. Those of silk either plain or
dotted. Next come fine mohairs and sicii-
ians. Many suits in the finer materials are
made without collars. the low neck being
trimmed with contrasting shade. like
trimming appearing at belt sleeves and the
bottom Of the skirt. Hats and caps are of
numerous sorts. all about equally protect
i've. AS To shoes, there is a sensible kind
with twisted rope soles and white or black
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-06-28

The Pilgrim.

The Pilgrim.
AS the habit creeps upon its victim she
loses sight of the fact that there are other
clothes. II she has a golf cape she may go
to the letter box. or to market, In her IA
vorite negligee. Sometimes. and In the more
shameless stages. she leaves the cape at
home. She can run in to a neighbours,
loiter about her garden or her back porch,
sit in the hammock. fuss with desserts do
fancy work or mending-an this and much
more il within the reach of the dressing
sack ali the time. except on rare and fes-
tive occasions. Sometimes. In self-defense,
she win say that her husband likes soft,
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-06-28
For Her summer Cottage.

New Orleans Times-Democrat.
met a woman on the street the other
morning who had just come into town for
the day. 'To get more green enamel paint,
my DEAR" she explained. "Our cottage is
simply suggestive of the woods in every
mood of green. 1t looks as if it were
awaiting the coming of a druid house party
I have stained the floors green and waxed
and polished them until they look like re-
fiecting pools in some shady dell. I've
stained all the old furniture green. and the
comfortable In the hall is just an old kitchen
table stained green. but IL looks lovely. My
curtains are white Swiss, with wide and
very full green rufles around them; the
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-06-28
Koman's Tucked Jacket, 4444.

Street costumes made of taffeta make one
of the notable features of the season. and
are both smart and ideally comfortable for
summer wear. This very stylish one is
shown in black, and is simply stitched in
tailor style. The coat is one of the latest,
and is tucked in both body and skirt por-
tons. The skirt is cut in seven cores, with
tucks concealing each seam.
The quantity of material required for the
medium size is: For jacket, 6h yards q
inches wide, 311 yards A inches wide; for
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-06-28

is very light and dainty. almost like fancy
work, and the lightness of the material for
an entire skirt is surprising.
Heavy pique waists being trimmed
with color put on as cording on both
sides Of the box pleats, which are stitched
in the shape of VS. in front and back. Light
green. blue. red and black are employed
on white waists in this manner. Many
heavy white linen waists are deliberately
embroidered in large spangling sprays of
flowers. Those done by hand will wear
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-06-28
FACULTIES have

FACULTIES have
presented I h e m
selves in the matter
of deep lace collars
which would lift I'M
pleasantly IN the far
from gentle breezes
OF spring and early
summer. The collars
used so much on
linen and wool suits
would blow up over
the head, not only
bringing annoyance
but spelling the ap-
pearance of many
an otherwise pretty
suit. This trouble is
avoided I'm some re-
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-06-28

canvas tops. They come in different heights
and are laced up. They have several eye
let holes at the bottom Of the canvas to let
out water.
New York, June &c.