The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1903-09-13

used for trimming, but heavy lace, fur,
velvet and embroidery are also pressed
into service.
One attractive white coat In this ma
terial is loose and full and has a very
deep cape cut up short for the arm, but
cascading down almost to the bottom of
the coat on either side of each arm. The
cape is bordered by a band of plain,
smooth, white cloth stitched in black, and
the fronts are trimmed with handsomely
embroidered ornaments and straps.
Velours and plush in imitation fur eff
fects are also highly favored, and, upon
smooth cloth coats motifs OF long haired
zibeline, plush or fur set in with heavy
lace are much used.
A plush velours in the gray-brown mole
skin color is frankly used not as an imi-
tation, but for it's own good qualities, and
Is frequently elaborated to cost putting
it on a par with fur coats.
Heavy lace trims large majority OF
the plush and fur coats in Paris, and
though Americans have always affected
tions that this season the Partisan idea
will obtain more generally than ever be-
fore. Certinly the French models are at
tractive enough to win over even har-
dened sceptic.
Artist Dies Suddenly.
There is, for example moleskin coat
among the imported garments at the
show. 1t hangs loose and flowing tie a
point well below the hips and has huge
flaring bell sleeves. Around the bottom of
coat and sleeves runs wide band of
handsome Irish lace and into each wide
sleeve. half way between the shoulder and
edge, is set a large lace medallion. The
lining of the coat is of white satin, but
is faced in light blue velvet. On each
of the rolling blue revers Is applied a
genuine peacock feather and around the
edge of the revers on front is a line
of hand embroidered work done In pea
cock colors.
shade was made upon lines much like
those of the fur coat just described but
has a stunning collar and stole fronts of
open work white cloth in bold cut ,out
design, buttonholed and embroidered in
black and light blue.
Light blue is the favorite color note to
relieve the~dullness of the brownish gray
in the modiSh moleSkin, but orange Is
almost equally successful.
This moeskin is unquestianably the
fur fad of the moment, and an imitation,
Partisan furrlers are using, too, the black
long haired monkey skins, and this fur is
considered particularly smart for short
automobile and sporting coats.
In leather, too, more than usual is being
done. American women last season ac-
copied the short brown black, or red coat
for winter automobiling, but Tar iSiennes
are carrying the notion much further and
are going in for short, natty, fitted jackets
Of colored suede, and for fitted coats of
tractive enough to win over even hard
ened skeptic.
A white kid coat shown at the garden
and labeled automobile coat" gives an
idea of the extravaganza of the French
chauffeuSe, but is undeniably very smart
affair. 1t is a half length coat, fitting
tightly in back and at the Sides but fall
ing straight in the front. The tailoring
is of the most severe, and the only trim
ming is in the huge buttons of green and
brown enamel and in the collar and cuffs
The collar is turned down from a high
straight band and cut with sharp points.
The broad turnback cuffs are of the same
form. Collar and cuffs have borders
Photographed (burnt) and painted in blend
ing shades of green and brown
But the most delightful garment among
the models into whose composition Kid
enters is the long coat to which we have
given the large cut on this page. 1t is
veritable triumph in severe tailoring
a field in which the French do not excel.
The coat is made of oyster white cloth
and Is full length and close fitting Beau
tfful lines, accommodated to the straight
front figure, are attained by the use of
piped or corded with the merest line of
dead white kid. The full sleeve has seams
and kid pipings running down the out
side of the arm and Is finished by deem
turn-back cuffs of white kid heavily
stitched in black and bordered by a mar
row band of cloth. The stitched kid collar
corresponds with the cuffs, and the coat
buttons down the front with a single row
of silver ball buttons.
There Is nothing conspicuous about the
model but Its severity. The kid would
hardly be known for kid except upon close
examination, but the lines and finish of
the garment and the effective ningline
of the two shades of white give it en-
phatic cachet.
For wear with the coat are stole and
muff Of moleskin and miniver. A fiat