New-York tribune., 1903-05-17
TvSSERS IRE F4VORITES.
Made Into Wraps, They Are the
Thing an Paris Just Nozc.
Paris, May 9.

n. t,sser silks are evidently to be as fashion
shle for short summer wraps they are for
gowns Some charming models OF short pa4etots
have lately appeared these silks and Deen taken
up so well that one expects others to follow Inc
trousseau Of a May bride includes q gown of pale
blue tusser with a short loose coat to match The
gown has q full skirt made in novel fashion 1t
might be described three peated founces joined
together by bands Of white English ernproidery'
that IS the skirt is pleated al the waist, ABOUT
twelve inches below IS bard of embroidery Win
the second part Of the skirt pleated TO this then
second band heading a pleated founce that finishes
the skirt The blouse is pleated and made UP with
an elaborate pattern in embroidery. The little
paletot 10 be worn over this when necessary has a
deep collar of embroidery and handwork
The tusser coat In this completes the cos
tune and is simply expression Of an idea that
has returned TO favor-having a suit TO match. no
matter what the character OF the costume Ihls
winter several Of the talors brought out elaborate
coats of the paletot dolman variety with skirts
20 match. and one sees occasional suits OF
cloth, silk and wolfe consisting Of half-long cloaA
or short. elaborate paletot made up with similar
skirt The fashion need not be taken too seriously,
for although all the dressnakers recognize it. II Is
having only a limited success However. it is from
some tentative fashion Of this sorr that the big
changes CT future season spring.
SILK PALEToTs.
The greater part Of the silk paletets this
summer, rnsde nc matter Of what material will be
considered separate garments TO be worn over
any costume. The tusser silks will be decidedly
nodish material. and trimming viii consist OF
large collars Of lace and embroidery and stitched
hands The heavy linens inset with lace
motifs and embroidered with heavy. effective
stitches make an excellent trimming and give
slightly more serious appearance than the English
embroidery, which is equally fashionable. For lin
ings there are printed and embroidered batistes
the fancy gauzes and other dainty, thin fabrics
that accepted this season as the proper coat
linings. These hang loose from the coat and are
often pleated shirred a trihe.
There seems to be a slight reaction from the ex-
trsnne blouse front that has been so long in
vogue One sees many blouses made with a little
fulness all about. blousing a high belt OF
course. the front Of most waists is still vague,
but any exaggeration of this style has become
vuigarized But one point on which great stress is
laid is the loose fit OF bodice The corset
gives sufficient rigidity the figure; the blouse
should simply lie this without any unnecessary
bones. Most dressnakeTs in the case Of thin
dresses. using bones at all.
Important changes ia dress supposed to come
"a the autumn but in the spring there are many
little tendencies that point to q change. One OF
these Is the sudden freak for comparatively plain
tailored suits, a marked contrast to the much
trimmed suits that generally Passe-
rneuterse has taken so many extravagant forms
that the fashion may be trusted to itself
70 death And yet at the time, it must be
remembered thai the majority OF summer gowns
especially the linens and piques. make a brave
showing in the way OF cordeleres, fancy braids and
pssseu1enterie ornaments.
The models for summer linens especially
elegant A handsome costume is in white linen
trimmed with coarse embroidery In white floss
done nlet band OF this embroidery four
inches wide IS us,d on the skirt about six inches
below the waist This IS arranged in narrow
sco1lops and has a stitched band of linen on both
edges Hanging from this from q yoke is the
skirt IN the fern Of wide box pleats, the peats
hel6 together 20 almost the bottom by stitched
bands ending in a conVentionaliZsd clover leaf The
bolero Is edged ali about with broad band OF the
embroidered lace framed In narrow stitched bands
and IS closed by elaborate cordelieres. The sleeves
FLASHED show wide band OF the hlet and
embroidery, and the wide collar is managed in
the sa.ne way. This is worn with elaborate
enderbiouse.
THE LINEN GOWNS.
severe type Of linen blouse has the skirt
trimmed knee high with stitched bands. narrowing