Lewiston evening teller. [volume] (Lewiston, Idaho) 1903-1911, 1903-12-26
Especial Telegram to Evening Teller,

NEW YORK, Dec. 2e.-The tailor
made gown Is a pressing necessity at
this season as the warm knitted jack
cts which have become so fashionable
have obviated the necessity of wearing
heavy coat. In fact comparatively
few smartly dressed women wear coats
this year except they are made of ele-
CANT fur.
There are several ways of supplying
the warmth and comfort of the heavy
cloth coat in the tailor made jackets,
however. as are shown by the capelets
and other shoulder decorations of
smart designs. Then there are inter-
Innings of chamois which makes 1t i'm
possible for the cold air 10 penetrate
the system, while they add nothing in
bulk to the figure.
Many of the cloth suits have velvet
figuring in their construction in some
shape or form. Strappings of velvet
seem destined to supercede the taffeta
and satin bands which have done duty
SO long. One very excellent reason for
this change is that richer effects and
colorings are obtainable by the use of
velvet, especially since the manufac-
turers have attained such excellence in
the weaving of panne and chiffon vel-
vets 1t is possible to obtain tints in
these fabrics that can be gained In
no other materials and for richness
they are unexcelled.
A striking costume In one of the
smart shops Is developed in biscuit
color broadcloth but so light in weight
that 1t possesses the suppleness of wolfe
or etamine.
At the front the skirt is box plated
appliqued tucks above which are fancy
stitched bands of shaded brown velvet
From either side of the front extending
over the hips there Is shirred yoke Of
the cloth and this yoke fastens invis-
IDLY at the back.
The jacket is blouse and made en-
tirely of the velvet. over the Shout
of the cloth, faced with brown satin
and finishing yoke of shirred cloth
and lace There Is a vest of lace over
which folds of the velvet open and
these folds are trimmed with orange,
white and brown embroidery
The sleeves have close fitting cuffs
to the elbows over which there fall deep
cuffs Of celvet. The cuffs are finished
with stitched band of cloth trimmed
with an immense brown velvet button.
Extending almost to the tips of the
fingers are ruffies of biscuit color chif-
fon over white silk which are sewed in
the sleeves.
A brown panne velvet hat trimmed
with ruchings of the same color satin
and shades ostrich plumes completes
the costume.
More attention than ever will be paid
to color schemes this year. For effec-
tive backgrounds the sombre shadow
tones will be used and upon these win
be built the most beautiful color har-
monies. Quaint and changeable browns
trimmed with orange and blue will only
afford a more striking background to
the dash of red which will be seen on
many gowns. Shade blue-that strange
tint almost as deep as ink-will be gar
nished with bands of cherry velvet with
red coral trimmings for belt and hat.
Another pretty color scheme is shown
in a tan costume in the stock. The
foundation is made of brown satin;
over this there is a band of heavy In
sertion and at the upper edge of the
stock there are no less than four ma
terials in as many colors for first comes
a band of burnt orange velvet, then a
band of brown satin, then fold of
pale green louisine with fold of
brown chiffon over white net. The
description is complicated. but the eff
feet is simple and most striking.
The acme of all that is desirable in
the present fashions are the low
petual look of sliding off. To produce
this quaint effect the bertha. cape, pei
crime or whatever effect is adopted
must droop very low over the arms and
cover the tops of the sleeves COM
pletely. 1t is easy, however, to exag-
gerate this appearance. heretofore
master hand should be employed for
the WORK OF pattern IOllOWcu tiital has
been cut exactly to the measure of the
wearer.
The belt has developed into such an
important feature of toilette that it is
no longer a simple affair. The newest
designs are little less than bodices and
are more or less crushed. according to
the build of the wearer, Several dainty
adjustable models are shown and with
these the greatest ATTITUDES is permit
ted as to the position of the big locped
bunch of golden which is a necessity.
especially upon ultra1fashionable even
ing gowns. 1t can be pushed around to
the center of the back or coqnettishly
pinned a little to the left of the front.
Whatever changes the season may
bring it certainly shows no appreciable
reduction in the side of the fashionable
hats. The newest idea In the flare eff
fects Is braided taffeta. This is very
dressy and as black, gold, silver and
steel hraids are much used any degree