Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1903-10-02

of Fall Dre..-wtnE Collar. To he
Favorites-Correet Form In shirts
and Cravats The Proper frock
Coat.
More or less conjecture must enter
into any forecast Of autumn fashions
Just at present. The mode Is in u
plastic state. ready for forming. but
not vet formed. Radical innovations
In dress | do not look for this autumn,
says "A correspondent OF Haberdasher.
IL will be a season of brightness ana
color. OF richer tones and warmer hues,
but there are no signs that custom and
tradition will be Jared. IL fashion
has a card up its sleeve, II will pertain
10 details rather than essentials. The
well dressed man of autumn. naughty
three" will show the same regard for
the niceties OF attire that have long
distinguished the American gentleman.
He will studiously avoid anything that
renders him too conspicuous. and he
will continue to shun the popular" as
he would pestilence.
With the donning of more formal at
tire wing collars will be favorites. The
long narrow wing has given place to
smaller affairs that tit the neck rather
snugly and give a tidier effect The
best model Of wing collars will be some
what high, have narrow stitching and
less space between the tabs. Square or
round points are optional, though /
fancy the square will be more sought.
Round points have never really passed
beyond the fad stage, and this, Joined
to the fact that they are featured by
low priced shops. tends to render them
unacceptable to many men. Poke col
lars for evening and formal day wear
should taper gracefully from the neck
outward Foxes with snippy points
are odious. Standing collars with
fronts just meeting and straight stand
ers with overlapping fronts are correct
for formal occasions. Fold collars are
out Of it from a strictly fashion point
Of view, as they are really a summer
style. However. they will be worn to
business, and both square and round
points are permissible. All collars will
have soft. dead white, lusterless finish.
Coming to shirts for informal wear,
the plated garments are good. Plaits
are somewhat narrow, and the grounds
consist of stripes or swiveled units.
Colors are a bit pronounced, In har-
mony with the general tendency Of
autumn dress toward more sharply de-
fined effects. do not think that the
bosom shirts made up Of two fabrics,
one in cuffs and bosom and the other
In body and sleeves, will 60 with the
best trade Cross stripe bosoms are
mooted, but conditions Just now are
not favorable to their introduction.
High class custom shirt makers have
shown them tentatively and, so far as
| can be determined, without encourage
ment Dress shirts have undergone nc
change. The very simple affair with
plain bosom Is correct.
In cravats it's season Of large
shapes. The wing and poke collars
look well only with cravats of generous
widths. For business wear big squares
| and broad fourth hands will be prop
er, while for formal day wear the ascot
| promises to hold first place. Narrow
fOur-in-ha small ties and skinny
cravats generally are passe. Brilliant
| designs are favored in cravatings, and
the lover Of brightness and color may
give free rein to his taste without
transgressing the proprieties. OF course
exclusiveness Of pattern counts fol
much, and the well dressed man will
go to any length to obtain it. Fourth
hands will have moderately tight. full
knots, while ascots will be adjusted
with a freer and more flowing effect
So called dress protectors are not t.
be thought of. The smart muffier will
be the big thirty-six inch shape ii
plain black, plain white or sober mix
lures. In both cravats and muffiers in
dividuality Of pattern and plenitude OF
fabric are the marks of the upper class
article.
tailor as contradistinguished from tina
Of the haberdasher, the frock coat TO
man feet inches high will b,
forty inches long and made Of worste(
vicuna. The lapels will be long an(
medium width and will be silk facet
to the buttonhole. Jackets will b.
made without the long roll which ha
come to be the badge of the read.
made garment. Square cut dOubl,
breasted jackets will have three but
tons. The two button affair has beef
relegated to the sartorial bone yard
Round cut jackets will have the sam,
cutaway effect in front which distin
guished spring garments. The Sigh
military fare in the back is still IL
vogue, and the jacket will have cen
ter vent. Trousers will be moderated,
wide at the hip, twenty inches at tn
knee and seventeen inches at the bot
tom.
Evening dress shows but Sigh
changes. Coats are the same length
with tails trife more peaked and la
pels silk faced to the edge. Cloth, no
velvet, collars are correct. Trouser
measure twenty inches at the knee an,
seventeen inches at the bottom. TIL
evening jacket has narrower lape
with longer roll. The waistcoat
three button and U shaped. So far a
overcoats 60. the covert top coat, rattle
short and very full, promises to b
more Of factor than heretofore. TIL
long Chesterfield, exceedingly plain ii
cut and trimming and the skirted Goa
will divide honors. The Chesterfield
will measure forty-fou inches, reac
below the knee and fall straight fror
the shoulders. All overcoats will hav
breast pockets.