The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1903-07-04

M ARTS June 6.-The gay Partisan
capital. as we all know, has the
reputation of being the sartorial
- center of the world. with the
Rue de la Paix as the axis round
which moves the whole creation of
clothes. Delphic oracles are to be in
voked at almost every portal and when
walking this streets glittering length
one is almost certain TO meet either
couturiere or a costumer, so given over
is the particular location to the frills
and furbelows of fashions votaries- Al
though the Partisan dressmakers' hon
ors are thick upon them they have not
the distinction of sending out the old
est dressmaker's bill" which is of Chal-
dean origin and has been found recently
on a tablet in Asia Minor. That this
bill has been outlawed, even If never
paid, any court would maintain when
one sees its date-280O B. c. This his
tory of the woes of other days contains
an itemized list of garments and their
cost given by the king to the priests
and priestesses of one of the temples
It is a great satisfaction to know that
the creature comforts of even so simple
a people had a considerable price when
our own modern necessities have to be
COPIED with in hard earned coin of the
realm. Although the present coutu-
riere's bill may not be as long in COM
ing to light it makes up in dollars what
II loses in time, and it is clever wo-
man who, in these extravagant days,
does not financially fall between the
Scylla of modes and the Charybdis of
her dress allowance. It is not of course
necessary to put ones whole SOUL into
the subject of clothes. but it requires
not a little thought. knowledge and dis
erection to choose wisely a becoming and
appropriate wardrobe. In so vast a
fabric field where liberty of choice is
almost unlimited. care and forethought
are indeed doubly necessary.
The days that are no more are apt to
be unduly roseate in hue and the gown
that is no more is very apt. in reminjs-
cence, to take on added attractions. but
looking at the question dispassionately
the tailor built frock of a season or two
ago was a blessing to all womankind.
1t could be depended upon to do duty
on all occasions where a cloth toilet
was de rigueur. Now things are sadly
changed. One must have a morning
tailored frock, short as to skirt and
Worn with jaunty jacket. linen shirt
waist and the latest "tie" development
for the afternoon a more elaborate
affair of light cloth, canvas or voile,
with train or dip at least and a chif-
fon waist exactly matching the cloth
skirt and coat in color. This becoming
blouse is made full over a tight fitting
lining of satin and trimmed with lace
or embroidery. A three-quarter coat or
plated bolero is added a t the wearer's
fancy. and with this addition the after
noon walking toilet is complete. If one
has to economic, have both skirts of
the same material as the jacket.
In the matter of hats the situation is
quite as serious. One must have a
stunning outing affair-a dainty piece
of millinery to harmonic with the
smart afternoon frock. The picture
Romney or Gainsborough has an ex-
cuse for being. and then the different
kinds of sporting headgear one needs
is discouraging to an extreme. A few
years ago three hats would have an
swered the purpose beautifully. This
enumeration of things one really re-
quires does not even begin to cover
even the necessaries of the smart wo-
man, but are sops to.-Cerberus most
of US financially handicapped are
obliged to make do"
The rage for original and individual