New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1903-05-29
COMMENCEMENT GOWNS.
The Most Fashionable Materials
Hoe to Make Them IN.

chine. II is advisable to have a general Idea OF
how the gown is to be made before buying the
material not only because different fabrics are
adapted different uses but because much trouble
is saved by knowing the quantity OF material re-
qured. an insufficient quantity is purchased
much difficulty may be experienced in trying to
match it afterward
The material for a white gown should always he
the finest be had. 1t is far better to economic
the trimmings than the material. BY this 1t
is that should buy cheap laces. but
smaller quantity, and should be taken In
any not to overload gown with too many
different kinds of decoration.
CORDED AND sHIRRED SKIRTS.
For the corded and shirred skirts much
worn. and so becoming TO slight. grlish figures.
silk muslin and crepe de chine the most de-
siderable teriaIs. The waists for these skirts
corded shirred around the bottom ard made to
fit, either inside outside the skirt, In such way
give the appearance. when finished, of single
garment, Around the foot Of the skirt there are
usually three large tucks. or ii deep hem. herring
stitched. II insertion he used the waist 1t
is employed around the bottom Of the skirt also.
The waists made in various ways 4 bertha Of
terial trimmed with lace or medailons
with a woke Of r1lousseine de sole s very nice.
Sometimes the material IS shrred
the shoulder the desired depth, and me-
7allions applied down the front. The sleeves,
Of elbow length. may be finished handkerchief
style The handkerchief made by cutting
honng or tucking the straight edges to match the
OF the skirt The bias sides gathered ana
attached TO each sleeve, that the points or
the handkerchief fall the finger tips or lower
when the hang straight down. With these
sleeves long suede gloves or silk mtts gloves
should worn and buying the suede one
should remember TO get them size too large as
it is considered very provincial to tight gloves
Pretty openwork silk mitts are now seen in all the
shops and promise 70 he very fashionable this
season.
SHEER FROCKS MADE BY HAND.
The newest and certainly the daintiest frocks for
graduation this year are the handmade ones of
sheer Swiss fine quality Of lawn, These are
very simple in design. Some are trimmed WIN
insertion and lace while others have decoration
but hemsttching, tucks and perhaps simple drawn
work, medaons made of bias strips of the ma
terial filled in with spider webs or one Of the
simple lace stitches. The work on these gowns is
not in itself difficult to skilled in the art Of
fine sewing. On the contrary, it is very easy, but
il must be done with great care and neatness- 1t
requires time and much patience.
pretty frock of this kind had a large hand
kerchief collar, the points falling one over each
sleeve and down the front and the back rms
collar was made by cutting square of the material
diagonally into four trtanges The straight edges
of these were then finished with inch hem, hem
stitched Above this were six tiny tucks-of course
all run by hand-and above these threads were
drawn and one Of the simple draWnwork stitches
Above
angles we're fagoted together and a small yoke Of
bias strips and fagoting set in. The low
collar was the the yoke, and the lower
part Of the waist plain With the exception Of
few of fagotlng The sleeves had tinv
tucks nearly to the elbow, and were finished by
deep cuffs of the fagotng and bias folds Right
here it may be said that the bias folds which are
used so extensively in making tufnovers etc. may
usually found at the notion counter, and come
in rolls like tape In all widths. This saves time
such narrow strips evenly The hem Of the simple
tucked skirt hemstitched and the seams
wide sash Of soft Liberty satin ribbon drawn around
The waist and tied in immense bow at the back
ACCORDION PLEATs POPULAR
Accordion p1eared gowns are also popular this
year. the best material for them being crepe DE-
chine which peats beautifully The peats are
narrow at the top widening to inch and half
at the bottom. and should be full nothing looks
worse than scant pleating. These skirts are often
put on yoles of the material, and sometimes on a
yoke Of aIover lace. The waists look best pleated
and a large lace collar or yoke Of lace cleverly
rieced is the only trimming necessary. The Yokes
are s d Te5 Tah s down oven the 5os
The sleeves should be pleated also and finished
4 neat gown for young girl is of white organdie
and wide lace insertion. The skirt is SHRED in
four sections three of which are shrred at top and
bottom and attached to rows Of insertion which
% r6R snG on the ne oher SIDE above the hem IS
set insertion The section thus forms full dounce
The waist is made in sections to correspond The
sTfsbe5 at the wrist by deep cuffs Of Insertion.
The skirt and waist may he attached by band Of
point desprir trimmed entirely with satin baby
young girl The skirt has three deep rutfies edged
sign also Of ribbon. The square design is again
has deep yoke crossed with baby ribbon. and a
deep ruffie edged with the same goes around the
shoulders The sleeves very full and finished in
the handkerchief STYLE
A sHIRRED MODEL
Plain. very fine net is newer than the point
d.esprit though many still favor the latter The
plain net is effective when closely shirred One
model seen was shirred at the shoulder seams TO
the desired depth and very fine valencennes inser-
non was set in diagonaIly down the front The
a handkerchief Of the net edged with valenciennes-
The skirt IT panel eject Every other gown
was SHRED i'm sections to founce depth. and In the
plain ones diagonal rows Of insertion were set.
The insertion also set in around the bottom
of the skirt. -
worn Some are very wide and Just drawn around
the waist and tied in two immense loops, Win the
have rosette Of the ribbon at the waist and an
other one lower down Some or the gowns t9 1
on the back Of the belt with another bunch At
tached to the plain ribbon halfway down. < me
These gowns should always be made with drop
silk usually have an accordion Pieated IoonGe.
4 9oT completely covered by small lace edged
'"'''fS. GIFTS FOR GRADUATES.
In many schools now the graduates are not al
lowed to have flowers sent 10 the school Friends
end relatives receiving cards for the commence
raont exercises naturally want to send some little
remembrance and flowers seem to be the most sun.
able sl;'s IN ,r man" f,iI make more 9raccal and
lasting presents? For instance, an aunt instead or
niece might glTE mr. 1nrecafe such gift
q