Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1903-04-23
NEW YORK FASHION LETTER
No Decided Rule Followed In Modea-
Summer Costumes.

toicttcs. Tho art and time devoted to
house Gowns measure them up to the
standard of things sartoral.
1t goes without saying that the soft
dinginE fabrics arc selected for these
gowns. but this year they are treated to
an elaboration never before cqualled In
beauty or effect.
There is an endless variety of designs.
but it is easy to detect suggestion or
the Empire in all of the new models. The
natural grace of Empire gowns is only
one feature in their favor. That they are
comfortable Is proved by the fact that
they delight the heart of the radical
dress reformcr as well as the butterfly
OF fashion.
4 design that requires almost innumer-
able wards of silk and lace Is made OF
light weight pongcc trimmed with val
cncienucs dyed n beautiful coral shade.
The silk is cut in narrow strips winch are
alternated with lace insertions ana form
cd into an accordion plated SKIRT. Inc
acant bodice or rather yoke cxtends bare
ly to the hust-inc and the jolnt'ire with
the skirt is yelled beneath a drapery of
hiscmt colorcd chiffon. An unusual feature
of the gown Is the rather high neck
that is high for an Empire effect Tor only
enough is cut away to show the outline
Of Il swpr-ikc throat
II there il one thing above another mat
commends itself to the woman of fashion
rule is followed in the modes 1t is sim
ply a matter of selecting the style and
the color that suit, hut ell OF the Styles
are graceful and dainty ard all of the
colors light. so that whatever the fancy
may hit upon is CONNIE IL faut Iile giri
who does nos like a decided Empire erect
finds delightful notification in a girdle
which is more of a twentieth than an
eighteenth century type. In TINS effect.
the depth is placed below rather than
above the waistlinc and in this way un-
becoming lines are not inflicted upon the
well dressed.
The province of heavy laccs has been
extended to house gowns and the result
is that some striking designs are being
CXhhitcd in ultra smart establishments.
A creation in pure whit" India null seems
toe delicate for tn" thick coarse lace that
apparently weights it down. The seams
are covered with strips Of the lace and
the null cut from underneath. The same
idea is carried out at the top of the hem.
The gown falls in graceful folds
from "A round gagged yoke which is lent
length by "A bolero of the lace threaded
with narrow white crepe ribbon
The sleeves arc made in layers. First
there is a loose inner sleeve of tho null
ending obviously at the elbow: above this
is fun puff of lace over chiffon which
crows narrower az it reaches the top
where there is "A final cap of white peau
de cynse appliqued with the dearest lit
! tie lace mcdalions and tiny sprays of
| forget -mc-nots.
Never were collars ana revars of lace
worn SO much as now This season there
| Is. however a now adoption of tho mode
which shows LONG stole ends at the front
| Ealing almost to the hem of the skirt.
| These collars ere used to trim every
| thing from Il house bodice to an opera
| wrap and the greatest variety in lacPs is
! allowed. In fact very much controversy
! RACES round the subject Of coloTcd lace.
| Gray braid lace looks we'll on grey
gown and blue WOODEN lace on "A serge
gown of the same shade picked ont IN
rcd is quite novel In appearance In some
Of the smart shops handsome skirts and
| bodiceS all cut and ready to be fitted can
be obtained al 2 reasonable sum. In fact
the trimming is already designed upon the
gown This is certainly blessing to the
home artist in these days when every
thing requires the touch of a master hand
Next TO the beautiful house gowns that
take the place of the Easter styles that
have been on exhibition for the past few
weeks. are the summer gowns of liner
and canvas fabrics These toilettcs are
labelled wash gowns but this is the
only intination that one has of the fact
| For instance one model is made OF
coarse canvas which looks FOR all the
| world as if it wnrc made Of white an(
| COICred coarse crochet cotton interviewer
1t s lined with natural color elacc. There
is Just fine threadinG Of black introduced
with a Coarser voft and woof.
The new wash gowns arc prottiest II
the stone tirts. rcd, putty and champagne
because they blend most harn"niousl,
with the varigatrd laccs.
The alarm that was evidenced N the
combination of linens and chiffon at tn
beginning of the season has Queted dowr
into steady admiration. The combination
does seem homogeneous. but its beauty OK
ruscs every other disadvantage a sim
plc costume of white linen has the Skin
trimmed from belt to hem with wide IN
Sertions of lace through which a whit
taffeta drop skirt CLEANS.
| The bodice has a band of the lace r'iIl
ming around the figure Just ahoVn the i;ir
die. Above the hluused front there /
4 yoke Of lace with the most louSel
woven placed threaded with chiffon. BE
low the yoke there is n luf'1c of Chiifo
| lad in two wide hcmsttched tuCkS an
embroidered with linen thread i'm it'll
nour dc Tvs. The sleeves have caps an
mdorcuhs Of lace with wristbands q
linen.
Hip-Yokes continue to he ono Of the mos
popular forms Of skirt trimming, nu
the question of finishing tn" edges Wit
becoming emphasis is a question that pu2
? zlos the best Of them. Scalops arc tn
simplest solution Of the problem, reduir
, ing as they do less geometrical precisio
then the Greek key and battcmont meth
DDS, but because they are easy To gai'
the commonality adopts them. Thereof
h, rohbnc the skirt Of its originality.
The craze for buttons increases an
they are as fashionable upon wash drcsse
as upon more expensive toilcttes. Fo
the linen fabrics these are carved pear
crochetted ana linen buttons of all size
and designs: voiles. CLEANLINESS and tn
- like are ornamented with anything froi
a mother-of-pearl to a genuine damon
button
y For summer shirt waists there com
= "rrAs pretty button sets that are fastono
: anon hrads and can be easily chang"
, from one waist to another. The majOrit
> qro made of pearl. but there is an .,
= nonsive novelty in burnt wood that
particularly chic
Burnt leather belts will he very popula
this year: 50 much 50 in fact that bel
and the hat-hands OF summer sailors wi
he sold in sets to match later on. Tho
. are rain-proof piablc and artistic Al
u quite the newest detail that one might nd
to cncs wardrobe,
d MAUDE GRIFFIN.