The Indianapolis journal., 1903-03-22
projecting buttresses form as perfect
specimen of medieval Moorish art as ex-
lists in Morocco

BAzAARs OF THE CITY.
The bazaars of Fee are not as picturesque
as those of Cairo. for they cover a mucn
smaller of ground. nor are the sur
rounding buildings to be compared with
those of the capital of Egypt There are no
tall minarets. no great striped mosques with
decorated domes. no trellised windows over
hanging the streets in the bazaars of Fez-
The Fez bazaars are for the native and not
for the European; and there propaby Is not
single man in any of them who speaks
s@aee of da fSn
through the door of the sanctuary OF Muiai
Idris can be obtained. but 1T must only De
that the crowd probably will hustle any
Christian who stops to look in But the
peep is sufficient to give an idea OF wnat
lies beyond, for one sees a picture OF aaz,
zling color-gorgeously painted carved
wood mosaics of tiles of every hue, delicate
plaster work, marble and tile moor, anu
a fountain splashing in its basin: IL Is only
a little courtyard-but the most famous ano
skilled of workmen have been empioyeu
In its decoration. which makes the tomp
and more especially this out court perIec;.
gems of Moorish art. Within everything Is
on the same scale of gorgeousnesS, from tne
wonderful carved and painted roor 10 the
velvet covering of the sarcophagus OF tne
saint and the rich draperies that cover the
walls.
A profusion of lamps. lanterns and glass
chandeliers hang from the dome detractins
not little from the whole though Wnen IL
Illuminated the effect must be astoundihs
The tomb of Mulai Idris ii, at Fez ana tnat
of his father. Mulai Idris l, in the noun
tains of Zarahun, are perhaps the most re-
rowned in all Morocco. though among tne
mountaineers of the north the sanctuary
of Muai Abdesalam in Benz Arros is Oh
greater repute and more frequenteo piace
of pilgrimage just as in the extreme soutn
the tomb of Mulai Brahim takes the nrst
place. -.
4 10 ocrtr1n
Mulai Idris is situated the first caravansary
in Fee, the "Fondak en-Najjaren." Its gate
way leading into the courtyard, with itS
grand arch, it's panels of rich tiling and its
wonderful overhanging roof Of tier upon
tier of carved wood. is perhaps the pest In
all Morocco. Delicate as is the detail OF all
the work. its fineness does not detract from
the whole. and the effect is heightened by
the tall gray-yellow walls that rise In aoso
lutte simplicity above and around this most
beautiful specimen of architecture. far.leu, Sar,
larly good are the delicately carved wooden
brackets, with their little pillars that sup
port the heavy beams of the hood over the
gateway and the panels OF lniala ~. t,leWork v,,oS
ter. On the right, as one faces the arcn' is
a drinking fountain. almost replica IN
miniature of the grand old gatewa;y irsett IL its
way, equal to its exterior, for three uers OF
galleries surround the courtyard, OF wnlch
the balustrades are of fine musnerIpeyen
work in cedar wood that has turned dark
with age.
BEAUTIFUL oRNAMENTATIoN.
The panels of these balconies are divided
by white columns that support the floor
above one and all boasting capitals or
finely nodded and incised plaster. The up
per gallery is almost entirely inclosed by
small horseshoe arches in cedar wood, del
icately carved. A remarkable specimen of
an old ceiling is to be seen directly beneath
the archway on the ground floor. The
courtyard is surrounded by the shops and
offices of the better class of Fee merchants,
who sit and carry on their business quietly
and with no sign of hustle or excitement,
and from time to time a caravan of camels
will enter to discharge loads OF merchan-
disc. Near by, in shaded bazar, the car
penters ply their trade, and the whole
street is sweet with the scent OF cedar
wood.
1t is just below this quarter that the great
mosque-the largest In Afrlca-and the uni
versity of the Kairuin are situated. Al
though the Kairuin mosque, except for It's
size, possesses no particular features or
was celebrated in the middle ages through
out all Europe, and 1t was not an uncom-
mon event for Christians to be sent to be
educated there. Its formerly famous IL
brary seems largely to have disappeared,
though a quantity of books are still report
ed to remain. search among WhlcnIlm-
possible, unfortunately, for Christian
might bring to light some treasures. The
university is still in existence, and almost
all the scholars Of note in Morocco have
passed through its schools of divinity and
law. 1t is the Kairuin that issues the diplo-
mas to the students at law, without which
they cannot practice.
There is whole district of Fee which
consists of gardens-gardens of oranges and
pomegranates, lemons and aprfcots, where
the sound of running water is always pres
ent. Everywhere are tiny streams, splash
ing down over rocks covered with maiden
hair fern or bubbling up in the basins of
marble fountains. 1t is in this quarter that
the richer Fee merchants have built their
country houses, away from the narrow
streets of the city below Very charming
they are, these villas, with their open
courts and arbors shaded with jasmine.