Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-02-28
SHE GOES A-F|SH|NG
Hints in Buying and Serving
Fish.
WORTH TIE TROUBLE
COOKING IN OF PLEAsEs THE
EPIcuRE.
Planking Also Gives the Finest Re-
sults-Recipes for Gro
quettes.
)RTH TIE TROUBLE
Written for The Evening Star.

ana Marcn come as parting of the ways,
as 1t We're, In the domestic world The
winter dietary attractions have lost their
SAVIOR, and the spring dainties are merely
pleasures of hope. OF course, if money is
no consideration, delicacies have no sea-
son. Strawberries are as plentiful at
Christmas as in June-in fact the world Is
our oyster. Unfortunately the problem
which the great majority of US have to
solve is how to tickle beefsteak palate
into enjoying pork chop or something
equally plebeian.
1t seems to me very few providers realize
the friends they have in the different va
rieties Of fish. Most of us have fish din
ner on Friday, and there the obligation
ends. The clever cher appreciates the pos
sibilities of the fnny tribe, and many Of
fish, and it would be well for less expe-
rienced cooks if they followed closer in his
footsteps.
Now that Lent has come around again.
many persons from a religious sense and
more from gastronomic ennui will adopt
bountfful fish diet; consequently few
hints upon the buying, serving and cooking
OF fish may be acceptable to the house,
keeper.
A very important point when buying fish
is to be absolutely certain as to their fresh
ness. This fact may be determined from
the gills, which should be bright red; by
stiff fins and the general shiny appearance
or the scales. The flesh should be suf-
fcfently firm to admit of the finger being
pressed In without denting it. and the meat
should rebound in a springy fashion. When
fish meets all these requirements, one
may be safe as to its freshness. Another
point upon which the purchaser should be
well posted is the kind Of fish peculiar to
each month, and in this way a judicious
selection can be made. If the dealer Is re-
lied upon entirely and happens to be of an
obllging turn of mind. 1t is possible for him
70 4c1ro y 49, Lii
of out-of-season fish the ignorant customer
may ask for Bluefish in February or shad
In November are equally in the power of
this versatile gentleman to produce.
Remember also when purchasing that the
cheapest fish is1not always the most eco
nomical In some kinds, notably cod, the
head, tail and Bones outweigh in waste a
more expensive fish. The finny tribe may
indigestible. The former are Of the white
meat variety, such as halibut, cod. weak,
white and perch. the so-called indigestible
kinds being shad, mackerel, salmon. cells
and the like. These are to be avoided by
the woman having the unhappy, thankless
task Of providing for the dyspeptic, who
will rail against the entire fish family If
one Of these members be given him.
An Exploded Notion.
The old idea Of fish being brain food has
been exploded long ago, but Its good quail
ties for the brain worker are duly recog-
nized and appreciated as more valuable
than meat Fish is nutritive and less slim
ulating in its properties than even roast
beef. Having caught our fish, the next
taste counts most inthis direction, as the
same fish lends itself equally well to boil
ing, baking and broiling A good
rule to follow when in doubt is to broi1 the
oily kinds of fish, as they require a large
amount Of heat to make them really good, |
and to boil or fry the drier varieties.
I cannot recommend too highly the great |
advantage to be derived from using oil in
stead Of lard in frying fish, especially the
smaller ones, such as smelts. perch and |
sunfish. OIL Is more expensive, to be sure, !
but the difference in taste will quite repay |
one for the more extraVagant material. |
There is an old proverb, and very true |
one, which says, Small fish should swim |
twice, once in water, once in OIL" When |
these tiny creatures are dipped in egg, COW |
cred with cracker crumbs and cooked in |
oil, they are food fit for the gods
An Emersonian Proverb.
To broil fish seems an easy matter,
but as Emerson says, "There is best |
way Of doing everything, even If 1t be to
boil an egg," and the best way Of broiling
fish is to first have good hot Goals over
which to place the spider or broiler After
rubbing over the fish a generous quantity
OF melted butter and a seasoning of salt |
and pepper lay the thickest part of the
meat In the spider skin side up Let It |
cook almost done on this side. then turn
and cook nice brown on the other. A J
sauce made OF melted butter favored with
q little lemon juice and chopped parsley
WI WI improve the flavor very much. A blue
nsn when broiled in this fashion and gar
nlshed with cress and a few slices of lemon
arranged artistically round the dish will
please e. sc them the most fastidious taste.
II IS really strange how few housekeepers |
realize the splendid pod |
pianking fish. Many OF them seem to i'm
agine some elaborate method Of cooking
acnieved only by the very experienced chef
On the other hand. the amateur culinary
experimental derives the most benefit from |
piankfng owing to the fact that a fish SO
treated Is brought to table on the plank
wrapped IN a napkin and does not run the
risk of being broken to pieces as is fire.
luently the case when the unskillful person
the exchange from broiler to |
ish. The epicure has his fish planked for
the delicious woody flavor it imparts.
When boiled fish breaks up and becomes
lnsightly, never attempt to rearrange the
d1smembered parts. Rather allow the pieces
sauce and fill the ehinks with potatoes cut
IN some fanciful shape.
Needless to say that the Accomplishments
70 fish should always be bread, rice, pota-
Toes or macarOni.
The following recipes will be found useful
BY the housewife for the Lenten menus.
and If carried out to, the letter her family
blessed IN 'ie
shad Roe Croqilettes. for fifteen
minutes in boiling salted water the roes OF
,wo shad. When the roes are cool, remove |
he skin and mash carefully SO the eggs
will come apart; but not be broken. Rub
together two tablespoonful Of flour and
,wo of butter and stir with the fish eggs
INTO cupful of scalded milk Remove
from the fire and add the beaten yolks of
TWO eggs and one tablespoonful Of Chopped
parsley, dash 5of nutmeg and the Juice
IF half lemon, salt pepper and CAYENNE 1
Is required. Tits sauce Is thickened and
lgain put on theufre when the shad roe is
added. The entire mixture is placed on a
fish and allowed to cool thoroughly The
ish is now ready to- form into croouettes
which should beiroffed In egg and bread
crumbs and friedsfn boiling hot fat until a
beautiful brown. ~Place the croquettes on
'olded napkin gHrnished with greens and
serve with beaFnafse sauce
To Serve Small Ffsh.-A pretty manner
n which small fish may be served Is to |
arrange them in a circle round a silver Gun
standing in the middle Of the dish on which |
he fish are to be served. This cup holds |
he sauce. which is dipped with & small
adle.
Fish la Creme.-An attractive method
Il serving cod or halibut Is to boil ft in |
allied water In which has been poured a |
tablespoonful Of vinegar to keep the meat |
White Bon until the flesh falls to pieces. |
When cold. remove the skin and Aone. |