The Indianapolis journal., 1903-07-25

ment. Now and again one sees those OF
exaggerated height under short walking
gown and has the opportunity TO study
some very marked eccentricities in gait, but
Tire women who wear them upon the street
are those who aim to be smart rather than
those who have already attained that be-
attic state. Some of the very latest i'm
portations of white gowns for garden par
ties and the like are really exquisite and so
faithfully carry out the od-time air which
Is held more distinguished than anything
else as to merit special description. One
that is specially notable because of its full,
simply gathered skirt is OF white muslin.
fine and sheer with embroidered dots. or
peas. as the French call them, over its sur
face. The skirt Is trimmed with three tiny
ruffies that are edged with dwarf valen-
ciennes lace at its edge. three at the knees,
in waved outline, and between the two
groups diamonds Of lace set in and edged
each with single ruche. II is long at the
front and longer at sides and back, making
walking art TO be acquired only after
much practice, and is simply gathered at
the belt falling from that point in long,
graceful, folds The bodice is soft and full,
with a big dropping fichu that is mass of
tiny frills with deep falls of lace at its edge
and wide, pointed girde or belt of white
liberty satin. Its sleeves are large and full,
gathered into bands below the elbows and
finished with deep falls of lace with. above
these bands, three ruches matching those
on the skirt Accompanying the gown is a
lingerie hat in picture style that Is fiat and
broad and shows a wreath OF roses around
the brim, with narrow ties of black velvet
ribbon that are bowed beneath the chin,
and a parasol of white chiffon that is all
frills and ruches. Fichus and berthas are
almost universal. One or the other finishes
almost every gown of the more elaborate
sort. A charming creation from a noted
Paris house is of batiste that is mass of
openwork or English embroidery. The skirt
combines a deep founce that is finished at
its lower edge with the big scallops that
are part of the needlework design. with an
H.. Is 4l1tw~ L. r.
is the full one that is so general, with
deep yoke of fine lace, a bertha of the en-
broidered bastiste and big puffed elbow
sleeves. With IL are worn sash of Louis
inc ribbon and big fiat hat of white chip
trimmed with dropping plumes.
SOME DAINTY HATS.
think have written of the lingerie hats
in an earlier letter, but they have developed
so chamingly as TO deserve a second men,
ton. English women are wearing them with
tulle or mousseline scarfs used as ties, but
that fashion is scarcely likely TO become
at all general here where we know such
extreme heat Softest, most sheer and
f1imsy batiste and null are the favorite
materials for hats designed for use on this
side of the sea, and lace frills. dainty flow
ers and soft white plumes all are used as
trimming. Some models that are charming
rs frames to fresh young faces are made
with falls of lace that drop over the brim.
while others show lace medaliiOns set into
the material that is left almost plain, and
are rendered bewitching by wreaths of field
flowers, forget-me-nots and tiny rosebuds.
Worn with the dainty white gowns of which
/ have been writing they are really lovely
and deserve all the favor they are shown;
Gowns that are not white are rendered
beautiful and brilliant in many ways. A
most gorgeous afternoon toilette Is of white
linen embroidered with black-eyed Susans
In 1At- aAlA 1,d Dc 1rnrSl yIrtf q
picture hat of light brown chip trimmed
with long plumes of darker brown Black
gowns of the transparent sort over white
and color are much seen. A most exquisite
crepe de chine over white and is trimmed
elaborately with insets Of black chantlliy
over the white silk yelled with mousseline
Chiffon cloth. too, Is a favorite and Is real
ly exquisitely beautiful while being far
more durable than its predecessor or hgn,er
weight. Both il and crepe ninon are mucn
used and make up most satisfactorily IN
black over the white or color. A most beau
tiful gown of the chiffon. in delicate, cool
shade of gray. is trimmed with lace dyeo
the exact same shade, but Is given pc
culiarly chic touch by wide collar OF
white embroidered batiste, whose scarf
ars that oSsnes I edges Of the
blouse and which includes bits OF yellow
that are really fascinating In their erect.
The gown is from French house and pears
final touch of color.
TO BE COPIED WITH CARE.
am always a bit fearful when l write of
such things that they will be attempted
or copied by those to whom the divine in
stinct for color has been denied Therefore
let me say again that such course is most
unwise Single tones or colors or color with
white are by far the safest for anyone not
quite sure of her own skill in combination.
The French appear to have a special gift
for doing daring things. This touch of yell
low on the gray is, for example, delicious,
but were it's shade wrong the entire effect
would be destroyed.
Coats grow more beautiful each month
and continue to show the long dropping
shoulders and the lines that belong TO this
revived period of extreme gentleness and
femininity in dress. White broadcloth with
the deep collar edged with fringe is much
seen and is essentially smart, but the more
durable black silks and pongees continue
to hold their place. Fringes are among the
revivals that are steadily gaining favor
and are seen in conjunction with lace. A
most satisfactory coat is of black taffeta
with a big collar of handsome lace into
the edges of which is knotted deep fringe.
and similar effects are frequently seen.
Altogether the summer Is a successful one
from the standpoint of dress at least. The
charmngly feminine gowns have caused a
revival of grace that in itself is welcome
and are teaching our too athletic girls a
needed lesson. 1 think have already called
attention to the unfortunate habit into
which many of these had fallen of swing
ing the arms they walk. If the reaction
serves to correct this evil IL will have done
well even though no other good result.
As, however. nothing is grotesque
than a masculine manner in combination
with the soft trailing gown with its droop-
ing shoulders and frills. we may safely hope
to see grace of manner well of walk
made study. And when he have our out
door girl so far controlled and trained we
shall indeed have cause for pride. for her
physical state will be as nearly perfect as
mortal conditions allow.
MAY MANTON.