Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1903-08-06
NEW YORK FASHION LETTER
A Fabric Which will soon He Apropos
Hard TO Get Away From Elaborate
Details.

New York, August 3.-Although the sea-
son Is well advanced there are many
beautiful novelties with which the sum
mer girl may replenish her wardrobe.
Less expensive designs are selected now,
because there will be only a short time
TO wear them and it is unsafe to calcu-
late upon holding them over for next
season on account of the uncertainty of
making over This season it has been
almost next to impossible to do over last
years, for although, they were new,
they are little less than archaic now.
A fabric which will be apropos late in
the season, however, Is shantung. This
Is very desirable in natural color shot
with oblong dots of deep req, blue and
green.
quite an effective skirt Of this material
has the fulness taken up in tiny tucks
around the hips and is close fitting to
the knees where 1t flares into a grad
uated rufile. Above the hem of the
flounce medalions of cream lace are APP
piqued and over these are designs of
white lace of different variety. Where
the foundation medallion, as it were, ex-
tends beyond the upper one, the de-
signed is stitched with pale blue and
navy silk threads to gain "A complicated
but very elegant effect.
The same idea is carried out on the
bodice which has a round yoke below
which it is shrrcd back and front. The
sleeves are trimmed in the same way at
the shoulders and below the elbow where
the big puffs hangs there are inset the
cream and white lace appliques with the
silk stitchings
Lace continues to be a favorte trim
ming, but the select fancy inclines to-
ward the renaissance effects. These al
low almost unlimited variety for many
of the patterns are made from my lady's
own designs and arc necessarily exclu-
sive Linen dresses have appliques Of
the heavy braids, while the duchess and
honiton braids are used for organizes,
mulls and mousselines.
1t is also noticeable that some form of
embroidery is almost invariable com
bined with the lace trimming For in
stance with the coarser braids, medal
lions, French knots or petit pois are
used to outline an entirely distinct de
sign, though ali 1t interviewer in the lace.
There is not a very decided contrast Of
/ coloring between embroidery and lace
just enough difference to differentiate
between the designs of the two.
A fabric which sets off to advantage
the cream and white lace trimmings is
black dotted suisse. The very fine or
rnheads are considered the most chic.
An elegant gown is carried out in this
material The bodice has "A solid yoke
| of heavy lace with liberty satin ribbon
run through the meshes. half way from
neck to the bust line, and tied in front
with ends that droop to any desired
! length though in this instance they
reached only to the waistine. From the
yoke there falls a deep bertha ruffle of
suisse cut to hang in deep points, one
over each shoulder extending down the
arm nearly to the elbows. There is one
deep point in the back while two adorn
the front This rutile is edged with a
two-inch fold joined TO the bertha proper
by fine black silk fagotting.
There is a shaped girdle which is laid
in folds and slipped through narrow jet
slides. The fulness Of the bodice is shir-
red on cords over the hips and the sleeves
are shirred on similar cords above and
| below the elbows.
The skirt, which is shirred over the
hips, is finished with two deep fiounces
each starting from three cords and each
edged with deep fold joined by black
fasotting to the rufles. Under the lower
houncc Is another black accordion plait-
ed mousseline flounce with a full ruche
at its edges. A fiat hat or black point
d'esprit and tule shirrcd, and trimmed
! with cream lace and pink rose buds com
| plctes the toilette.
one of the prettiest dresses Of the sea-
son is carried out in corn flower blue sin
null of inexpensive quality. The bodice
is made over a fitted lining Of blue lawr
and shirred bach and front to accom-
modate the irregular shaped yolk. Strip,
of lace and bands Of the mousseline com
pose the yoke and these are joined to
gether by means of French knots placed
very close together. Below the shirrni
at the front on either side Of the plaitec
vest are large fanciful designs executed
in cream white lace.
The skirt is shirred over the hips, ther
twice again the lower row extending
around the knees. At the bottom it fall,
i,,o f,tl 81, he 4.
train. The sleeves are tucked ii few
inches below the shoulders. then again
at the elbows and finished below in
deep puff shirred above the lace cuffs
which completes it. y fine white straw
with broad brim is worn with the dress
Its only decoration is an immense blu
| plume that is laid straight across tn
, crown to curl under the brim,
Irvine color canvass cloth is used 70
an afternoon dress that almost hugs tn
figure. Four narrow box plaits pressed
but not stitched in, extend from the necl
to the hem OF the scantly trailing skirt
In the front of the bodice which blouse
little there are also four box plait
divided in sections, two each side of
centre panel composed of inch-wid
picket pointed tabs TO the gowns hen
as do the picket pointed tabs.
Upon the upper portion Of the sleeve
there appears like decoration, the tab
1 extending from the shoulders to the ell
, bows with box plaits on each side, Thes
, latter are released at the elbows to form
! saggng puffs. The cuffs and stock ar
, of the canvass cloth embroidered in lac
! and fine silk braid.
It seems extremely hard to get ava
> from elaborate details this year. II III
gown is simple, there must be some lit
, tie accessory sufficiently decorative I
break its severity \ delightful littl
= accompaniment for thin gown is on
I Of the fluffy pelerines. Black taffet
. forms the foundation for an effective de
' sign. 1t has n cape which falls to tn
= elbows. and long stole ends, Cluny lac
e borders the taffeta and forms a rouu
. collar, from which descend at interval
t pendants of white linen fringe Two lare
$ enameled buttons furnish touch G
4 color at the throat The stole ends ar
r finished with heavy black silk firing,
i TO soften the edges of the palerine, tai
T. fcta being hard, stiff material nan
o row fril Of chiffon is arranged undc
= the lace border.
d Just a word must be said in praise c
d the bordcrcd lawns. These are made I
j. meet the demand for Persian effects thf
o has been so great this season. In mos
G cases natural, twine and biscuit are III
e shades selected for these lawns and II
t, borders for skirt and bodice are in re,
= green. blue and deep brown mixture
v in the most beautiful Persian effect
! The dresses come ready to tit are il
$ expensive and make beautiful shirt wai
d suits especially. The embroidered design
are more elaborate and japanese law
e of high lustrc form the foundation f,
= the hand work put upon them. The
IS take the place of the shirt waist dre
+, in the afternoon and are suitable f,
aSia n 10