Omaha daily bee., 1903-05-31

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txkM this summer. Much talk has been
49, heard of it's shelving, and Of the
superior qualities of the costume all in one
material, but, as the moralist puts II, true
merit will tell" and the fact that, after at
least five seasons, the separate waist is
still with us is surely proof of it's desira-
bility.
With one black skirt of good cut the odd
shirt waist admits OF numDeriess changes,
and of morning, afternoon and even even
ing effects. On the other hand, the costume
in one material which takes it's place-the
shirt waist dress itself in fact-is strictly
for morning purposes, and when one por-
ton of It Is soiled the whole toilette, to
use a yachting term, is out of commission.
The best Of tine new shirt waists. like the
best of everything in dress, follow the
models sent over by several of the most
distinguished French makers. Names,
known hitherto only through the most airy
frivolities, are now affixed to plain cotton
and linen shirts, whose separate points are
too subtle for the inexperienced to grasp,
but which, combined, make up the perfect
whole that the least sophisticated may
recognize. Those up in the shirt waist cult
distinguish the fact that the new garment
must hang with bagiike looseness to pre-
sent the appearance of a correct fit. Then
the French back is not pulled down so
faulty as formerly, the puff sleeves are
very long, and the square cuffs scarcely
more than three inches deep.
Many Of the new shirts, whose cotton
materials display some handsome and novel
cOlors, are accompanied by stocks of white
pique, tied with scarfs in the shirt texture.
Others show stole collar attachments in
IA 81 -. -
sorts appearing upon these details, which,
in many cases, display the "chic" of the
whole garment. Current red,' a highly
artistic shade which in linen lends itself
to the most becoming tones. is one Of the
new tints for the washable shirt.
A shirt Of coarse blue, soft finished linen
has a stamped border trimming of dull
pink roses on a cream background. The
border is put on in a straight band down
the button lap, at the outside of each
sleeve, and over the cuffs.
Tn prevailing shirt waist sleeve is the in
verted mutton leg of the winter, more
voluminous at the pun quarter, and per-
haps a shade lOoser at the top. There the
sleeve Is fitted to the arm with tucks, side
and box pleats, similar manipulation Of the
stun shaping a yoke at the front of the
garment. The backs and tailored shirt
waists are in all cases without yoke
suggestion, though the preferred French
plainness is sometimes varied by two clus-
tiers of narrow horizontal tucks. Such an
arrangement, however, is not always be-
coming, the straight tucking inclining to-
ward a contracted look. So those not
blessed with a generous breadth Of shout
ders had better beware of it. and turn in
stead to the plain French back, which is
always widening.
Dainty shirt materials are the striped,
lowered and spotted ~cottons, boxed in shirt
lengths, as are the stOuter and more ex-
pensive materials. These, which are mainly
mercerized chambrays and ginghams, sell
anywhere from $1.6O the shirt up. But a
cheviot of distinctive pattern will be twice
that sum-, and an embroidered or braided
linen length. of which there are numbers
in the market. at least SO.
Pretty as are the colOred waists, the
white ones are prettier. and in pain en-
bIoidered and braided linens they go by
in large umbers Charming little shirts
ir more d~iaphanous white textiles are seen,
but the stOuter the material the more 1t is
approved for the shirt waist proper.
Such bodices as appear In French lawn,
<$wiss. null, etc. run to the tucks and lace
insertions which bar them from the shirt
waist field, for, though they now admit of
embroideries. all such garments must pre-
sent a tailored finish. Bias bands stitched
down the shoulder seams further the look
of well-made solidity and are stylish de-
tails besides.
An important point in the discussion of
the summer shirt waist is the skirt which
will be worn with it. This, authorities
have agreed. must be walking length, but
outside of this requirement the model may
present many aspects. A killed skirt of
the correct pavement" length-jupe trot-
toir is the French ~name-offered in the
shops for shirt waist use, is approved by
the summer girl for smart wear. In spotted
and plain silks, brilliantine, wolfe, etc,
these stylish skirts are stunning accom-
paniments to the dressier waists, worn on
occasions when a little extra hnery, and
not too much, is necessary.
&c.