davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-04-05

the serviceable blouns u under discussion
Just at present.
Foulard has much to recommend II for
blouses this season. II wears well. lends
itself readily to tucling and shirring. falls
gracefully and comes In charming colorings
and designs. As a rule, inconspicuous
designs should be chosen for blouse use,
though with frock In plain color more
latitude may be allowed. white ground
sprinkled with dots in black or color Is,
perhaps. first choice, but some OF the small
checks and plaids which are innovations In
foulard this season are excellent Tor the
purpose.
Blue, red and white Is a favorite COM
blnation, the red being usually introduced
in the form of ppings. French knots rother
embroidery, cravat, &c. With the white
and black foulard also, red Is much used.
In fact a note of red prevails throughout
the fashion world this spring, In famboyant
contrast to the soft pastel shades that
dominate the field but the red Is used deity,
cleverly. 1t Is not oppressive. IL Is limited
here. suggested there, and gives certain
audacious piquancy to costumes otherwise
demure
For example, a tailor frock Of soft gray
homespun flecked in black and white is
made upon a most severe model, its plated
skirt devoid Of trimming except in stitching
and plaits. its loose front, short skirted coat
equally plain, save for cuffs and a shaped
piece, finishing the collarless neck line.
These are of coarse white linen, embroid-
cred in white, black and red cottons, and
are edged with tiny pipngs of red and black
taiYeta, the red coming next to the linen,
from which It is separated by the narrow
est of black and white braids. The touch oil
red gives to the frock distinction which
would have been quite wanting without it.
For wear with this coat and skirt were
two blouses, one Of linen with the new
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-04-05

samples, he says; anything will suit. His
is busy parish. He hates to buy even q
handkerchief or a collar button, and Is glad
TO have such matters of his hands.
when l have orders ahead i can serve
people to much better advantage the
shopper explains only last week got
a double brass bed with good springs and
hair mattress for Sl4, which, had it been
bought on any day but that one, would
have cost 81 or 81 more. OF course. 1t was
lacquered, not solid brass, but good value,
and the client for whom l got 1t was
delighted.
The same holds good with upholstery,
shoes, laces, candelabra anything. When
/ get a commission to pick up things at
odd times, just as the bargains happ n, ]
achieve wondt N for a comparatively small
outlay. 1t III really interesting.
Few women whose time Is worth any
thing. whether occupied with clubs, or
house ket ping, or nursery affairs, can pre-
tend to keep up with the special sales.
Yet there are things going at temptingly
low prices all the while for the person who
makes II a business to follow up such
matters
The special shopper meets other experts
on her rounds. The shoppers for dr. ss-
makers stocks and for the Quitting houses
are always well informed and willing to
swap ideas and shop knowledge with a
fellow laborr. The dcsigners for the big
wholesale firms are also on the lookout
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-04-05

and unpliable materials, which are few,
resist the encroachment. The tucks or
plaits may be held fat for some distance
below the waist. but there Is voluminous
fulnees below, and that fulness IL not set
on separately, as was the case last season.
Our pedestrian and. street skirts will
presumably keep their trim lines, though
they are. as a rule, plated and have much
fulness around the bottom; but all the soft
materials take on more and more fulness
and hang full either from the waist line or
from yoke. A survey Of the gowns upon
the stage this month emphasizes the fact
that the full skirts have arrived.
The sun-plaited skirt, which has had
such vogue, has ARRIVED too completely
for it's own good. II has helped to intro
duoe the full skirt and is one Of the most
graceful and becoming Of models; but
now all Of the manufacturers have taken
1t up. and the shops are overlooking with
sun-plaited skirts. That sounds the death
knell Of the model, so far as extreme fashion
Is concerned but the fact remains that a
sun-plaited skirt in white or a pale pastel
shade is a most attractive summer skirt
with sheer blouses.
Lace robes and frocks are still the height
OF the mode. and black over white seems
to hold its own in spite Of its long popularity
Chantilly is the most successful Of the black
laces, as the season Of airy attire comes on,
and nine times out OF ten Is made up over
white chiffon and white satin. Both Of the
black lace frocks sketched here are good
models.
White or cream lace robes Of striking
beauty can be bought for prices compare
lively reasonable, considering their beauty.
or course. they are not in real lace, but the
imitation is so perfect that 1t would deceive
any save a connoisseur, and they are quite
as effective, II not SO costly. as the real
thing.
The mania for numerous interveilings
between a lace robe and it's silk or satin
foundation finds one Of it's latest and most
effective illustrations in the use Of spangled
tulle under lace. One robe of French
point was made over an under robe of palest
pink tulle spangled in iridescent paillettes.
Beneath this was chiffon Of pink a shade
deeper, and then came the foundation Of
ivory liberty satin.
Spangled tulle. or net under lowered
silk mousseline or chiffon, gives delightful
results, and under black lace black tulle
spangled in gold paillettes is remarkably
effective.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-04-05

continue. and the modes Of the moment
are unusually favorable to the summer
frook Berthas. fichus. flowing sleeves,
f1ounces, tucks. shirrings, full skirts-an
these are once more fashionable. and all
these are ideal features for thin summer
gowns.
For the linens and other heavier cotton
costumes, the plated skirt, the short bolero,
the cape collar. are all appropriate; and the
woman whose summer frocks are not pretty
this season deserves her fate. Dotted
effects are favored In wash materials a. In
heavier fabrics and dispute the neld with
the lowered and striped goods. Dotted
dimities, dotted swissee, dotted mousse
lines. dotted ba,istes. dotted linens. all have
their vogue. and among the sketches are
two effective models in batiste and In al
mond-green linen
Stripes, too, are onoe moro launched
upon a career Of popularity and. though
often almost invisible, enter into . majority
Of the loveliest designs for thin materials.
One airy French tissue has finely striped
white ground, alternately very sheer, and
more opaque, and over this striped surface
are scattered tiny pink and blue blossoms.
Another material in pale blue has broad
stripes Of satin finish separated by dull
finish stripes Powered In pompadour nose
gays. The satin and lowered stripes are
favorite combinations and are shown IN
Eause. silk grenadine printed net, printed
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-04-05

row bottom hounce Is edged by q ruching.
Such a skirt made In soft tafYeta is an ex-
ceedingly good foundation for any frock
skirt.
Upon the use Of ruchings stress is laid
a. the season advances and they are evi-
IDENTIFY to be a popular trimming for sum
mer gowns. Sashes and girdles. too, assert
themselves In connection with summer
gowns. and no girl can afford to be without
at least one fitted and folded high girdle to
wear with thin frocks, or without a num-
Der OF picturesque sashes.
The floral sash Ia one Of the latest develop
ments OF the craze for artificial flower
trimmings, but save in exceptional cases
II has little to recommend IL. A ribbon
or mousseline sash folded around the waist
has long ends covered with sprays Of Aow-
er. Soft elk sashes ending In deep knotted
silk fringe are perhaps the most satisfactory
and practical Of sashes, but lace insets,
many sash ends.
The sash ribbons are Of wonderful
color, softness and sheen. and the shaded
ones are especially lovely. Shaded effects
are, II appears. TO be one Of the seasons
pronounced fads and they have great posi-
bllties Of either charm or hideousness.
Millinen achieve veritable triumphs with
the soft-shaded ribbons and not In many q
season have such artistic colorings per-
vaded the millinery world a. are seen now.
The worry pale pastel blues and greens,
In combination, furnish delightful color
schemes and are used with the popular
forget-me-nots.
A Topping hat Of white straw b trimmed
In dropping purple wistaria and pale green
foliage together with skilfully handled
loops and ends OF Louisins ribbon shading
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-04-05

IL average woman wastes considerable
nensy upon such investments. She buys
th> little things because they are delight
fnl n themselves, not because she has
actual need of them 10 complete certain
costumes, and the result is that she has a
drAWorfl Of odds and ends that do not con-
sort axAicably with any frock she owns.
The blunder is q general one. but the
oeasible woman resists temptation and
dos not buy her little things until after
she has her spring and summer wardrobe.
Then she selects each cravat and sash
and collar, each pair Of stockings or gloves,
each parasol or hat. with direct reference
to its effect with her wardrobe and she buys
nothing at random. She spends less money
than her more reckless sister and she
achieves much more distinction OF cos
tune.
But warnings should not be the province
Of fashion articles in this day Of extrava-
eanoe and luxury. Moreover. the warning
b absolutely useless.
~ No normal woman can walk through the
shops and remain severely sane. She will
buy In haste and repent at leisure, but even
whsn she discovers that her money is
spent and that she has what she doesn't
ned, and hasn't what she does need, her
erief will be tempered. The things she
doesn't need are so altogether lovely.
Bsrviceable blouses do not come under
he head Of impractical purchases. though
ons may buy too many Of them IL ones
Win IL wabbiy and the saleswoman is per-
sussive. The lingerie blouse has TO GER
tin extent elbowed the silk and woollen
b,ouses aside, and with the smart tailor
A. ~ fin Ia,
- batists. hand worked and finished with
Q fetching stock or collar and cravat, Is
esnddered more fashionable than blouse
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-04-05

old-high linen collar and red cravat. the
other of white foulard with the smallest OF
pin point black dots, pipings Of red, and
turnover cuffs and collar matching the
embroidered linen that trims the coat.
A foulard blouse accompanying plain
dark blue suit Is shown among the group
in the big illustration. 1t is particularly
good for simple model and is made OF
white foulard scattered with small red
dots and trimmed with bands Of blue dotted
with white and set upon the material with
a fagot stitch or clearinghouse stitch in
red silk. Equally unpretentious but effec-
tive is a blouse of dark blue and white fou-
lard trimmed in self-bands piped with white.
With frocks of figured material a blouse
in plain color is usually preferable, but
embroidery, piping, heavy lace, &c, redeem
1t from too great severity, save in the case
Of the strictly tailored skirt waist. Dainty
little blouses Of white wash silk, hand tucked
and finished upon stock and cuffs with
French knots in color, are comfortable and
practical for the warm days and combine
exceeding simplicity with degree Of elabo-
ration.
This note Of simplicity needs to be kept
in the foreground by the well-dressed
woman. Certain items Of her wardrobe
may be elaborated to the point Of extrava-
gance. but the Partisan women trusts the
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-04-05

better Embroidered dots upon the linen
are effective and easily accomplished.
Where the linen trimming Is not embroid-
cred, il may be stitched In black or In color.
Linen blouses, not made In shirt-waist
fashion, but more deliberately modelled
and trimmed in a manner to make them
integral parts of the coat and skirt suits
with which they are to be worn, must be
reckoned with among the practical suit
blouses, and a new japanese tale, much
resembling tussore. Is attaining much
favor as serviceable blouse material In
Paris.
In wooden blouscs, lightweight cloth
Is now practical even for many summer
days, thanks to the fineness Of texture
which the new cloths achieve. Plain, dotted
and checked cashmeres and nuns veilings
are also good materials. but the woollen
blouse is usually a shirt waist or an en-
tirely separate blouse. and. as has been said
before, the practical three-piece suit blouse
is OF lingerie. silk or linen.
Sheer blouses deserve a story Of their
own. and must have it; but, in the meantime.
there are things other than blouses to be
considered-so many other things that one q
brain creaks at the idea Of doing justice
to them.
The tub frocks and thin summer frocka
that will never confront a tub take more
and more prominence as the warm days
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-04-05
THE SPECIAL sHoPPER.
A Business That ID Possible Because new
YORK Il Biz and Has Big stores.

A young woman OF good taste and prompt
Judgment has built up an excellent busi-
ness as special shopper for city residents.
People who want the advantage Of bargain
sales without the bother Of bargain hunt
ing form a considerable part OF her clientele
Other customers are those who really have
no time to shop and those to whom the pur-
chasing even of bare nccessaries Is bore
to be shirked as much as possible.
The increasing size Of New York. the
keen competition of the stores and the
time and fatigue involved in shopping
trip have created a need for the special
shopper. and her business grows steadily.
The special shopper referred to has been
In business year now and her note books.
bristling with data, as to things TO be got,
mark her as q very busy and versatile
person.
and much going TO and from shops. Occa-
sionally she makes hurried trips by cabs
and asks questions In hurry over the
telephone.
To-day she Is getting a street suit. hat
and shoes to be shipped TO Mrs. AS daughter,
who is of at college and wants things OF
the proper sort. She is also looking up
materials for an evening dress for the same
young student to wear later on at the college
musicale.
Antique furnishings for bachelors sitting
room are also on the docket. So are rain
coats and serviceable tub dresses for the
three little girls who are to be sent up coun-
try while their mother goes travelling.
She has draperies to secure for the young
minister who has just moved into brand
new apartment house and wants things
.hipshana No need To bother showing him
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-04-05

from wistaria purple through paier laven-
den and greene to white. Another hat In
pale lavender hyacinths and creamy pink
roses has intricate ribbon choux, shading
through lavendes and pinks.
The lavender and pink color scheme Is
seen In many OF the imported frocks. and
Is q more refined relation Of the puppies
and reds that go hand In hand this spring
The pale pastel blue and green oombina-
ton, mentioned In connection with hats.
"a also used quite as effectively In the maxi
ing Of gowns.
The increasing triumph Of the full skirt
is q matter Of interest, and only the stih
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-04-05
AIRY, LOVELY FROCKS
Flowered and Shimmering
Things In Fashion.
BEAUTY OF The SPRING MODES.
Pretty New Materials Made
Up With Fetching Art

~ Aeeesseries OF Dress Especial Tempta.
items foe women-The Blouses OF SIX.
nneu. Cotton. Wool. and Their Decors'
Z t1sn-Tub Frocks More and More
Preminent-stripes Again Popular
~ New Models for the Flaring Petticoat
4 -sashcs One OF the Neccssaries OF the
81 seasen-Co,or Schemes In Millinery.
Summer modes are being forced into
premature blossom by this May-time
weather and both milliners and dress
makers have been counting nervous pros
txation In their efforts to meet the unusually
early demand for warm weather hats and
gowns. Even the most practical woman Is
hlssly to feel a fine shopping frenzy on such
days as March and April have given us.
end to give herself over TO the buying
Of Powered and shimmering things
The propensity is easily INDUCED IL one
has the money, for temptation waits on every
dde. The little things are especially
charming this season. and that way mad
ness lies, for the woman who can stoicaly
run the gsntlet Of costly imported frocks,
expensive dress materials and wonderfully
fashioned coats falls ready victim to the
allurements of stocks. kerchiefs, belts. &c.
II II easy to run up large bill for Co.'S
t1me accessories this spring and. while the
eogrect stock or sash may give smartness
- IN entire toilette. there is no doubt that
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-04-05
and ready to advise as to selections and

and ready to advise as to selections and
values.
The successful shopper Is willy as to tbs
kind Of patrons she will ssrve. She fights
and 10 able to size up the unreasonable
woman at a glance. The orders given her
must be Of positive nature and the points
left to her discretion must be clearly de-
fined before she undertakes the com
mission.
On two or three occasions she has had
embarrassing episodss about articles 10
be exchanged, money refunded, &c. But
these experiences have only served to chow
her what folks to avoid. She buys for
many women clerks and managers who
the sc patrons, she says, are easier to suit
than many women more advanta geousy
placed who have more money to spend.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-04-05

satin and lace strips, with lace around the
decolletage and armholes.
Apropos Of the flaring under petticoat.
We are at last obtaining pettiooats war
ranted to make skirt bottoms look like those
In the fashion plates, and the heart OF woman
rejoices over the solution Of the hare puzzle.
which last season was too much for the
average dressmakers. There are several
satisfactory petticoat models which might
be copied successfully for drop skirts but
the simplest is much upon the lines OF the
slip skirt just described.
The upper skirt may be OF silk or mohair.
or Of any OF the silk substitutes. but must
At well. The nounce is the feature Of the
skirt. It Is made Of wo-and-a-half Inch
strips OF silk sewed together and running
around the aounce. Each is shirred slightly
to the one above it and the bottom strip
Is considerably wider than the others. 30
that 1t forms q hounce.
The Jennings Of the strips are hidden by
tiny pinked ruches Of the silk and the mar
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1903-03-10
A new SHORTHA D CHARACTER.

The invention of the method of writ
ing by signs, called shorthand, has
served the grand and useful purpose
for which it was intended. The STAN
pede made by business men to crowd
the greatest amount of work into the
smallest space oe5time, thereby realiz-
ing greater attachments, has given
birth to time-saving, devices of many
kinds, but not theleast of these is the
shorthand alphabet, There are many
different systems but even those which
We're supposed to have been perfect a
few years ago are being improved and
characters are changed to include more
in their meaning. The letter ID has
been adopted recently by many stenO-
graphers to signify anything perfect.
1t has been found that the letter d
stands for Douglas-the inventor of the
Douglas Patent Closet, guaranteed
against leakage and the annoyance of
running water. Bath. the plumber, in
stalls the Douglas.
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1903-03-10
oDIYINE-RIGHTo BAER.

Mr., Baer's tongue has the sweep of a
whales externity.-Buffalo Evening
News.
Mr.. Baer's efforts to discredit human
nature would inevitably be successful
If he were a fair sample.-Detroit
News.
President Baer evidently has no very
high opinion of President Mitchell. 1t
is safe to assume, however that Presi-
dent Mitchell reciprocates the compile
ment.-Omaha Bee.
In his speech before the anthracite
commission, President Baer evidently
forgot to urge his "divine-right" the
ory as an argument in favor of the
peratOrs.-Syracuse On. " Evening
Herald.
President Baer, in his arraignment
of the Civic Federation, said the mem
bers did nothing during the conference
but keep silence and puff cigars. Smoke
up, old mani you're mad.-Cincinnati
Commercial Tribune.
Mr.. Baer of the Reading Coal Com
pany and railroad, who poses as a
vicegerent of the Almighty in running
the anthracite BUSINESS, appears to have
been disciplined by his superior au-
thority 1t seems that his starvation
wages were not approved up above
Pittsburg Post.
Mr.. Baer evidently doesn't think
much of the National civic Federation,
of which Senator Hanna is the leading
spirit. Perhaps some responsible club
would be willing to offer a pr.se to
have the two gentlemen discuss the or
ganization in a siXteen-foot ring.-In-
dianapohs News.
Cancellation plan of George f. Baer
Is to have the miners wage scale slide
with the price of coal, OF course there
will be no sliding in the size OF the
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1903-03-10
A COMPOSER DEAD.

The name of Robert Planquette, who
died lately in Paris is less familiar
than the titles of his operas, which
have been enormously popular in this
country and in England, as well as in
France, though their popularity has not
been of the kind that eXcites interest
in the composer Very likely not one
in 10 of those who hear THE Chimes
of Normandy" know or care that 1t is
Planquette's Les Cloches de Corne-
Vile" This is by far the most popu-
lar of his operas, but he also wrote
Trip van Winke" QSS2), THE Old
Guard" QSSO and Paul Jones" QSS9),
showing a prediction for American
themes unusual in a Frenchman,
though Amrica has continued to prefer
THE Chimes of Normandy" Planquet-
tie was born in Paris and educated in
the conservatory there.
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1903-03-10
TOUCHING VARIED TOPICS.
FORT STREET

Mr.. Baer's speeches appear to much
greater advantage than one of the let
tiers he has written.-BaltimOre Herald.
An Illinois man used ten pounds of
dynamite and the cOroner's verdict
was mot found '-CinCinnati CONNER
cial Tribune
The Sultan is going to have an eXhi-
bit at st, Louis. 1t is not known whe-
ther it will wear a mother hubbard or
a kimonO-Birmngham News.
1t may be set down as certain that
Mr.. Bryan's emblem for 1904 will not
be an olive branch for gold bugs with a
ballot attached.-St, Louis Globe Dem
ocrat.
If every American consul in South
America is drunk by midnight it is
perhaps because South American gin
mills are not open after l o'clock.-tS.
Louis Post Dispatch.
There may be some excellent reasons
for restoring the Democratic party to
power but Mr.. Carmacks speeches are
not calculated to make the country SCI
them.-WashingtO Post.
j. Pierpont Morgan insists that he is
paying more than his share of taxes
That's all right, Other people insist
that he has more than his share of
good many other things-Lewiston
(Me.) Journal.
The latest claim of Chicago is that
it is the slang center of the world
There is no manifest reason why the
claim should not be allowed. Chicago
takes pride in a great many things
that no other town wants.-Cincinnat ii
Enquirer
Civilization seems to be getting both
feet firmly planted in DISQUALIFICATION.
The Kansas Legislature has passed
bill prohibiting ''snake-eating." 1t is
now up to Missouri to legally make
clap-eating odious,-Atlanta Constitu-
ton. Obj,
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1903-03-10

Note Heads, Bill Heads, Letter Headn
and all kinds Of Job and Commercial
Printing neatly and promptly executed
at the Star ONCE.
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1903-03-10

Senator Burton seems to have been dead easy upon
land scheme to the extent of writing euogstic let.
ters
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1903-03-10
Furnished Rooms To Let

A nicely furnished front room. Mos
quito proof and electric light. 494 Bere-
tania near PunchboWl.
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1903-03-10

Two Furnished Rooms. Cheap. No
8 Garden Lane.