Mexico weekly ledger., 1903-01-15
CHRISTMAS In OLD MEXICO.


TO the capital city ef Mexico.
The Christmas festivities had scarce
" closed when Miss Crosby and
started for Vera Cruz on the morn ng
Of The 18th. Each Of the railroads
had electioneered so vigorously for It's
own scenery that we decided 10 take
them both by going via the Inter
Oceanic and return via the Mexicano,
There was terrible mixture OF Az
tee rames ~ towns made up almost
|entire, u ks, rs, SIS aud t's until we
reached Pueblo de los Angeles.
The cathedral hers is the most mag
niticent in the Republic-standing on
the spot that the angels revealed for
It's founding hundreds OF years ago.
The elegant ruby velvet hangings, the
thousands OF wealth In the gold and
silver vessels, the exquisite ivory,
pearl and mahogany mosaic work Of
the choir, all hold one charmed long
after the massive portals are left be
hind.
The frightfnl tales OF small pox did
not prevent us from visiting the IA
nous hills near the city. On Guada-
lupc occurred the repulse OF the
French by Gen. zaragasa in 1862, and
the more famous battle OF 1857 In
which Gen. Diaz captured q French
army and sealed the doom of Maxa-
milan.
A few miles to the west In the won
derful pyramid OF. Chalula, on which
stood the temple of Quetzalcoatl, the
"god OF air, and this was the Indian
Mecca when the Spaniards came to
this world, wrongly called the new"
The city is famous for It's onyx. and
after gazing with enyious eye upon
the exquisite pulpits and staIrways and
holy-water-basIns made OF this, 1t is
somewhat consollng to find interest
ing souvenirs OF this same material
within reach OF our pocketbooks.
How yarledly we are entertained
along the roadl Spell bound by the
snow-capped peaks Of Popocatapetl,
Ixtachihuatl and Orizaba, II you can
condescend TO drop your eyes to earth
again they fall upon gallant Spanish
cavalier In his spangled charro suit and
hat az gold and silver, mounting his
caparisoned steed with the air Of a
king as his mozo stands with bend
ed knee an hat In hand, alert for the
east bidding OF his master. A twin
kle Of the eye, wave OF the hand and
touch OF the spur and they are off
like the wind and your dreams of chiy-
,lry aud knighthood are changed like
fash to a vision of an Indian wig
@am, a squaw with beads and brace
cts, earrings and moccaslng, and a
papuose tied upon her back with re-
boza.
At Jalapa we were met by an Ameri-
can ftiend, who is teaching in the
home OF Senor Gonzales Mena, presi-
lent OF The Legislature of the state OF
Vera Cruz We ~ere royalty enter
l.lird in This home. shown through
avery department from the parlor 10
ne kitchen and up into the watch
aWer with its many looph0les for
guns ,efiookiag the city. The wife
-. f...,at4H hnt fb., Sarnr und hts
daughter escorted us over the city, Ia
,roduced us to the Governor and Sec
retary OF State, showed as through
the palace, state university and other
buildings of note, and finally went
with us next day to the train, filling
our seats on the the car with most ele-
CANT bouquets Of roses and jessamine.
The views from the hills OF Jalapa
rival those OF Switzerland and the lit
lie white city of roses nesting In the
midst OF these many shades Of green,
with Orizaba's hoary head towering
above them, and the Coffre de Perote
hiding its jewels within, all form an
ideal scene of the picturesque and ro-
mantle.
But soon the hills are left behind,
tunnels and swift mountain curves,
and the eyer-present seasickness at
each loop of the railroad bring us to
the land OF the leaf palm, then the
tall and stately date palms and cocoa
nuts and the coffee and sugar cane
The sultry, sandy breeze OF the inter.
ior is replaced by the familiar touch
Of the ocean breeze and soon we are on
the coastof the grand old ocean.
Our cordial Alabama friend met us
and he was soon ushering US through
the narrow, dirty streets Of Vera Cruz,
breathing the fishy fragrance OF the
wharf, mingled with dreadful dreams
Of small pox and yellow fever.
At dinner we we're introduced to q
clever little gentleman from Arkansas
and afterwards we all joined in the
Mexican dress parade on the Alameda
Senoritas In one line, the Seniors il
another going opposite and the som
breroed poems on the outside goine
round and round the plaza hundreds
Of times.
As we sat In the starlight for resi-
aud refreshments, dressed in thin
white dresses, and the gentlemen il
their white seaside suits, surrounded
by statues and fountains. the fragranc'
OF the tropical fruits and flowers, thu
soft sea breexes and the sweetes
strains OF music, we were thinking
Of you good people bundled up in you
hannels and furs and lowering over |
hot register to keep warm.
The next day our escort was a band
some young student Of Yale, a Cubal
who is now exiled from his nativ
country for fghtinga dueltover gir
lyou may be suFe.l He secured yach
for the afternoon and we went ou
into the harbor, visiting the famou
sea wall-s3o, 600, and as marvellous a
those OF PirRus in Greece, the steam
ship, Havana, OF the ward line-th
largest steamer that enters Vera Cruz
and the penItentiary out on the islam
which Is the old san Juan fortress tina
cost the king Of Spain SO much none
that he raised his glass on the coast 0
lSpaln TO try II he ''oould not see 1
across the water.n Here the prisoner
lcarye many beautiful thing from In