The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1903-05-17
S|)OFRERE As
/ LOOKS NON
United States Consul Writes
of His Researches
CLIMBS STRAIGHT UP
Finds Cracks and Cones Still
Wide Open
CLIMBS STRAIGHT

United States Consul Louis H. Ayme,
writing in the New York Herald says:
The Soufriere is not only the highest
mountain IN Guadalupe, but it IS the
highest in the Antilles, its altitude ac-
cording to the observations of ST Claire
Deyille and others. being 1,4S4 metres. or
4. sos feet In addition it Is a volcano that
has always been active, and, in historic
time, even in eruption. The terrible erup-
ton of La Montague Pelee in Mar;i-
nique last year and the almost simultan-
eous eruption of the Soufriere OF ST. Vim
cent both causing immense destruction
of human life. awoke anew and solicitous
interest in the Soufriere Of Guadalupe.
All of this time the mountain was
shrouded i'm clouds. However, February
2 about noon the clouds cleared away
for while, and ] was able TO see that
the usual fumarolles had ceased smok-
ing, While new ones had broken out in
another place. ] had a friend, DR.. Col
ardeau. ascend the mountain for me. He
has made more than one hundred ascents-
He wrote me that on January % and
again on February a small quantity of
ashes had been thrown out by the old
fumarolle. Rumors multiplied after that.
Finally a French government observer
came over from Martinique and after q
basty visit denied everything.
Meanwhile the Soufriere was again
shrouded in clouds and I determined to
make an ascent myself so that 1 might
know accurately the actual conditions.
] had made two previous ascents. one
in April, 1885. and one in the spring of
1899. The arrival of two American geolo-
gists, who wished to go up the noun
tain, decided me in my purpose, and
March the start was made.
AS the mountain is situated at the
south end of the island, fifteen miles OF
more in an air line from Pointe-a-Pitce
the journey TO Basse Terre had first IL
be made. Since March l. line of alto
mobiles has been established in place of
the numbering old dilisences, and the
trip is now usually made in three hours,
instead of ten as formerly. Our auto
mobile was defective and nine hours
were consumed on the journey.
With an occasional halt TO admire the
magnificent acomas that lowered up
above the huge forest here and there
we nevertheless in one hour had gone two
miles and climbed 1.2OO feet. We had
arrived in Balm jaime, the first station
en- the way up. This is the first sign
that the mountain is a volcano.
Our halt was brief and we entered on
the second stage. Now the road is mar
rover. rougher and sleeper. The great
forest has given place to a denser but
lower growth Of vegetation. The g)yer-
nor went up not long ago, and in an
attempt to make his way easier the trail
had been widened and small tree trunks
thrown across the way, forming a sort
OF corduroy road. The continental rains
hal rotted these and footing became
n ost insecure. Two miles of this brought
US out on the upper plateau of the noun
tain from which the real cone rises II
one hour from Balm jaime we reached
the foot of the cone, having climbed an
other $40 feet
We were then $3.50 feet above sea level
and the cone rose at least LOO feet
above US. Here begins the really hard
climbing The whole cone is covered with
thick. low vegetation and carpeted with
deep layers of ever wet lycopodiums and
other MOSES. Among these a tiny trail
has been made. Very obviously I looked
at that trail. 1 had been on it twice be-
fore. But my companions were now as
enthusiastic as they had been before
doubtful and We faced the final stage
Climbing the Great Pyramid is play to
this. And It IS not 500 feet but more than
doubt that in height that must be climb
ed The slope is very steep indeed, and
in many places the trail seems imprac-
ticable to even nimble footed goats. One
has to use arms as much as legs. Scram-
bling. crawling, climbing, slowly We gain
ed foot after foot. occasionally pausinS
both 10 take breath and TO enjoy the mar
vellous panorama unrolled before US.
The whole southern part Of the island
lay before US drenched in sunlight on
the edge of the sea glittered Basse Terre.
an ocean of hills and valleys Of emerald
and malachite stretching up toward US;
beyond a sea OF purple and amethyst and
rose from which, almost in hand reach
it seemed the beautiful Saintes lifted
themselves while the lofty mountains Of
Dominica We're plaintly visible many
miles beyond; over all q sapphire and
turquoise sky:
Hundreds of a beautiful terrestrial or
chids grew among the wet moses and
shed a delicious fragrance on the air and
strOve 10 overcome the sulphur fumes
from the sources OF the Canon river on
the plateau at our feet.
For an hour and a half that heart
breaking climb lasted. At half-past elev-
en- we reached. at last. the foot Of th-
great Pitons. the remains of the ancient
crater wall.
The Soufriere was conquered
More climbing there. was. indeed. but in
small instalments and comparatively
easy. We rested FOR moment in the
Grotto des Amis. a curious cavelfze place
formed by three huge slabs % rock tum
bled together by the great earthquake 81
lSs2 Ten minutes later we passed through
the Porte d'E1fer and were fairly within
the great crater bed.
This IS roughly circular and about n
half a mile In diameter. II Is not ia,
but much broken IN and rises 70 consider
sble heiEht in many places From north
to south IT IS split in two ~ vast is
sure the Old active crater and there are
subsidiary ravines snd EUIts and bot
;onless holes. from which in geologic
time the volcano once emitted steam and
smoke. ashes and huge rocks and even
lava
The Crater dg Nord" said Dr. Cellar
1eau- 50 thither we climbed on OUT
way We reached The cuiniHztiag point %
the mountain As have SAID. fne French
observations make this ASS feet bat cur
aneroid gave ND hssght ~ ls.a feet
soon we arrived a. the northern end 81