New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1903-05-16
THE MODERN EGYPTIAN.
An Artists Notes on the Country
and Its People.

The author of this engaging book is an arus'
who has lived a long time in Egypt his p
suit OF subjects for his more or less atlao4
studies OF scenery and architecture leo nun my
an intimate acquaintance with the Peopie' m
knowledge of Arabic contributing largely 'neIe
TO- We owe to him, accordingly, an unusual,
clear, intelligent and sympathetic descrlpooh "a
Fuvnt.sn life and of phases OF Egyptian chaI
acter not often observed by foreigners
He tries TO explain the mysterious charili "a
Fgvpt felt by all visitors as coming chlehs Li0i'
its wonderful sunshine and air. put party n'
the fact that the country is quite unlike "H"'
those visitors have expected to find he lahe
us to Cairo by railway, noting the peautS "a
the brilliantly green fields. the contehIeo '0ii
Of the laborers, broken now and then os pray
IN their holy places-little circular spaces IN
$3.50 INV How roud walls and carreted with
straw" II is not in the Europeanized quarters
of Cairo that he interests US; 1t is to mis- eN-
-,er;ences among the native streets tnat we
turn with most zest. If he likes the EgypIiahS
II is surely with reason, for the hnoIy anu
courteous deeds he chronicles are truly WlilIilils
The stranger rambling along the picturesque
street will frequently be invited to take a cup
Of coffee IN one Of the shops he is passing II
&c ,n nu-e kindness he is asked: no business is
contemplated by the proprietor, who is SUM-
GENTLY repaid by smile and word OF thanks
easel in the street while painting some fascinat-
ing old building and a frequent interruption
was the appearance of a small boy at his eloo"'
presenting a cup Of fragrant coffee This mas
been sent by the occupant Of distant SHOP
a man ! dc not know, and to whom can only
send my 'salaams' in return A chair Is brought
and offered In place of my presumably unconl-
Portable sketching stool; and 1 never hesitate
when needful. to sit in whatever shop is most
convenient, sure Of courteous greeting from It's
proprietor" He mentions still more extraor-
binary example of this spirit of unselfish &C
cemmodation:
was engaged upon a large oil painting OF the
Rabel-Zuweyla, and l found that my canvas was
so large that the only possibility Of my working
was by entirely occupying a jewelers. shop.
Here worked for a month, pTactlcalIy putting
a stop 10 his business for the time, ana at ire
quent Intervals was supplied with fresh coiIee
from an adjoining cafe kept by Moorsi kharth
Neither would accept any remuneration, ana
the only return / permitted to make was by
painting a small portrait of the jeweller' while
even TO this day have the greatest difficulty IN
inducing Moorsi Cvhom 1 always go to seee to
accept payment for the coffee supplied Another
instance was when painting in the Gan!alleh-
This is busy thoroughfare, ana the pohceInah
on duty seeing that 1 was disturbed, stopped the
entire traffic of the street until begged him 10
allow Il to pass as usual
Now and then, however. an accident may hap
pen in the crowded street, when water car
rier unwittingly swamped both artist and pict-
tlre with the contents Of his goatskin. The
sinner fell on his knees, imploring forgiveness,
and on receiving 1t from the good humored Eng
nshmau went down the street, calling upon all
TO praise Allah that here was righteous man
who has pity upon the afflicted This was
many years ago, the artist adds, but he is still
remembered in that street, and is spoken OF as
''ragul taman," or IAN upright man" Even in
the traditional Egyptian sharpness Of bargain
ing the author sees something amiable, holding
that if the business is done properly, with
patience and good feeling. and as game TO be
enjoyed on both sides, it is productive OF
mutual admiration. if not respect" He once
found q native dealer in tears after a purchaser
had paid what he asked and had disappeared.
Why did / not ask double?' said the mourner,
who had been deprived of the joy of adroit bar
gaining. 1t is advisable TO offer quarter of the
asked and TO spend days, if need be, in dis
cussion. It is a matter. let US say, Of methods.
As for the oldtime quaintness of the Cairo
streets, the author notes that much of it has
disappeared with the removal Of the fine trellis
work Of the Oriental balconies. Dealers and
tourists have carried away this lovely orna-
mental work for the making of screens and fur
niture, and the government, fearing fire, viii
allow it TO be replaced. One possession
Cairo retains in its pristine fulness-its smell!
Terrible, indeed, is 1t in quality and intensity.
The author tells that he has smelt the city
three miles away. The treasures Of the place
are its many mosques, some Of them being ex-
tregnely beautiful One reason why they are so
numerous is that the authorities OF q former
time rapacious that rich men, knowing
their heirs would be robbed in the name of the
law, preferred TO seek favor with the Prophet
by spending their money themselves on religious
objects. The Multi and Cadi of the olden time
o1,r md inst heir of
types of The Arabian Nights''-witness this
story told to Mr.. Kelly by his native servant
concerning a certain public bakehouse which
they happened to pass:
The baker was Moslen his clients being al
most entirely of the same religion The oven
was full Of the breadstuffs OF the true believers
and as the baker was about to close the door
neighbor lwho happened to be a Christian
brought in pie to be cooked with the rest
Presently a delicious odor pervaded the house,
exciting the curiosity both of the baker and
his wife. Neither could imagine what was the
nature Of this dish, the like of which they had
never snelt before. Investigation showed that
the seductive smell enlanated from the Chris
ton pie. What could De in it, Neither could
guess. Finally. curiosity overcoming prudence,
the bakers wife. when her husbands back was
turned, surreptitiously opened the door and
poked her finger through the crust, determined,
at al hazards, TO taste the dish How delicious,
And again and again the greedy fingers were
thrust through the piecrust, until quite con-
siderable portion Of it had been consumed.
Filled with CONSERVATION at what she had done,
she called her husband to view the wreck and
devise some way out Of the scrape. Now may
Allah protect met exclaimed the Wretched man.
20, miserable wOmani See how you have
brought disgrace upon an honest man. How
L now deliver to the Christian his pie?"
And with loud l&Hentation he deplored the cir
cumstsnces which had brought upon him the
disgracs Of betraying his trust. The wifes tears
and expostuiations however, persuaded
the husband that the temptation was too great
be withstood, and, Eve-Ike she artfully in
duced him taste for himself, and how
little she TO blame, and between them the