Evening star., 1903-09-07
CITIZENS OF THE LITTLE KING
DOM ARE GOOD LIvERs.
Table d'Hotes Best in Europe-Meals
Of the Middle Classes and
the Working People.
From What to Eat.

large as the state of Maine but II has a
wide range of food products. because its
location is favorable to the importation of
those which cannot be supplied at home
Nearly everything In the vegetable line Is
suepled by the farmers who live just out
side the cities limits and bring their fresh
wares into town twice or thrice week for
the market. Beans, chicory endive, car
rots. OF two kinds; tiny turnips tomatoes
cabbages of several varieties celery pota-
tees, Brussels sprouts, peas, onions may be
Il una In the market at almost any time
grow much smaller than those seen
In American markets. but they are
very sweet. The celery is not fit
for table use uncooked and is
never served raw, but appears in soup or
a vegetable in white sauce The celery
roots also are cooked. The potatoes ara
very small. but the Flamande prepares
them so they are always mealy They are
served without their Jackets but not mash
ed. or in any of the forms often seen in
America. Chicory is a favorite dish. but
not palatable to Americans. 1t is bitterness
itself. 1t usually accompanies roast beef.
The bean Is like the lima, with broad pods.
Carrots are tiny things. looking, save for
color. like the turnip radish The turnp is
small and white.
Plenty of Fish.
The fish supply of Belgium is superior to
any in this country save in the largest cit
les Nearly every variety of food fish is
to be found In the markets. Many of the
fish are swimming in a big tank of water
and the purchaser selects one which is
lifted in a net. and dispatched at once.
There is thus no question of freshness.
Snails, the escargotS of Paris, are in all
the best markets. There are two varieties
of Holsters, that known here, and a speckled
kind that is brought from Norway. The
oysters are not good. having a metallic
flavor and being bearded. They are small,
too. There are no CLAIMS on the market.
but in their place are mussels, that look
like those seen on the coast here. They
are very good and are steamed, adding to
them sprig of celery, bay leaf, Glove
or two. These are served at quaint cafes
called mussel houses, and sold from
carts on the streets. They are too cheap to
be served at hotels but form representa-
tive Belgian dish.
The meat supply is inferior to this coun-
trys, game being of few varieties. scarce
and very dear. But one seldom has tough
meat served him The cooks know how to
make 1t tender, and those who eat II are
not supposed to cut 1t with silver knives.
Sharp knives make difference in the SEEM
ing toughness of meats.
Cooks of the Country.
Belgian cooks a great deal of OIL
1t takes the place of butter and is used
wholly for frying. They combine vege-
tables, usually cooking two more to-
gether. Cabbage and celery, carrots and
peas, tomatoes and beans are common
combinations. The carrots finely sliced are
cooked in oil with peas. Spinach and cab
bage are served in one; cabbage and sour
apples are cooked together 1t is largely
matter of what one has on hand.
The Belgian cooks excel in favorlng.
They use many more ingredients than other
cooks but only a trife of each. One Glove
to go into a dish, but these Titles added to
others make a most appetizing whole
These cooks have learned not to scorn
trifies, and the secret of the uniform ex-
cellence of their food lies in that
There are three grades of living IN BEL
GUM, and various shades in these The
labels of the wealthy and Of the large
hotels are spread and served much as they
are in England and America. Salad In
Belgium means lettuce other green vege-
table, always dressed with the French
dressing, and more often this is mixed by
the one using it than not. One who asks
for chicken salad is brought a slice of
chicken, with lettuce separate. The may
onnaise dressing and the flesh salad Is
something almost unknown. The Belgfans
are lovers of sweets. which appear with
every dinner, and the variety OF small
cakes is apparently unlimited
The middle class live very comfortably.
Breakfast for both of these classes named
is heavier than the French, but lighter than
the English Coffee and rolls, slice of
cheese or an egg in the SHE'LL or slice OF
tongue perhaps some sweet cookies.
make the breakfast Cheese in this country
takes the place of meat, and is of all sizes
and fiavors.
Bread, Cheese, Beer.
Lunch comes at IL, and IN very well to-do
families may be simply bread and cheese
and beer, or 1t may be of some more elab-
crate dishes. Huitze pot, which is the Bel
gian pot au feu, often makes the lunch dish.
This is made by boiling whatever meat
tables, all sorts Of things in meat and vege-
tables go into the pot without much rule
and are cooked together. and the 1avors
are added in right proportion. forming an
excellent and substantial dish The very
poor children wander about the markets
and pick up the stray leaves of cabbage, a
bean pod, a castaway carrot or onion, and
carry them home to form the huitze pot.
At 4 o'clock coffee is served. often with
nothing more. but there may be rye bread
and cheese sandwiches. or perhaps slices Of
piper-koech This is Flemish honey cake.
and is good for children and dyspeptics.
were there any in Belgium. This Is the
rule for making 1t, and was copied and
translated from Relgian cook book. Any
American cook can make as good piper
koech as that Of Belgium:
Recipe for Piper r-Koech.
Put in 4 large bowl two pounds Of honey
which has been heated. Add as much flour
can be worked in cover, and set away
for three or four weeks. Then flour the
board, put the dough on it, makes holes in
different parts of the dough and in these
put two tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, one
of cloves, one-eghth pound of soda dis
solved in rose water. This is for the entire
amount of dough. Roll and double like pie
crust until the dough is soft and can be
pulled lengthwise Make into loaves and
bake slowly. Try by pressing finger on top
of cake. If done, the pressure will not
leave mark. When done, glaze with an
egg beaten in milk. Children always like
this.
The dinner, even of the middle class, is
an important matter for which at least an
hour is taken. 1t begins with a soup, al
ways inexpensive and usually made without
meat, then follow meat and vegetables and
a pudding or sweet. Beer Is the universal
drink of all but the wealthy, who take
Wine
The poor people live on beer. bread and
potatoes This will be their diet day after
day. They seem to thrive on 1t ana are
seldom thin and scrawny The laboring
class lives on this, adding to 1t coffee In
the morning and cheese now and then.
AHaot rara1v fen hy the labOrfng classes