The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-09-06

DA'iliiOOu VI SUCH
an outcome For. though princess arrange
ments appear in various grades of dress.
they are not of a sort that a majority of
women can adopt. They appear in handsome
models of dressy house gowns and in get
ups for state occasions of afternoon OF even
~ing-lOw-cut for the latter. With their long
lines broken little. if at all, by their APP
piled trimmings, they are fine feathers, but
zhe demand for perfection in the figure un-
derneath is emphatic. Many of them are
very plain in front, opening in the back so
there is nothing to break the severity in
front except the trimming, which is mostly
passementeries and braids fastened to the
gown in such ways as to allow the figure TO
be displayed TO the best advantage. Let no
one don such a dress unless she has a firm,
well-prOpOrtioned figure.
The style of trimming most frequent has
the bottom of the skirt ornamented with a
heavy band of shaped passementerie or an
piique of lace, like trimming outlining the
hips. Trimming TO match is used ON the
waist. sometimes outlining a bolero, again
put on in figure designs. An exquisite illus
tration was violet cloth trimmed with as
trakahn fur and braid in a fancy pessemen-
terie. Fit over hips and entire waist must
1L1 O03G lIhC IL d III
higher in these princess models, and the fig
ure is held securely, noticeably so in COM
parison with gowns of the past few seasons.
Princess models for evening wear have the
lOw-cut neck edged with a ripple piece of
contrasting silk or cloth. This style is worn
with a soft guimpe of lawn. insertions or
silk, and is very pretty for those who can
wear the round neck.
Many of the new silks are of tho Shadad
order. some of them plain, others In stripes
and figures. These shade on their own col
orings, rather than taking in two colors as
did the silks of three years ago. Harmony.
rather than strong contrasts, will character
lie winter fashions. The silk waist of the
initial was illustrative, being shaded violet
silk. with pearl buttons trimming and bolero
of violet and white passementerie. Smooth
cloths, such as ~broadclOth and Venetian. are
10 be much employed for dressy gowns. and
on them lace imming will be continued.
The use of such materials makes it possible
to have the street gown entirely different,
as the latter can be of rough cloths and
mixtures. This is. in a way, an extravagant
manner of dressing. for many a woman of
moderate means tries to make the one tailor
gown do for all occasions on which a cloth
dress is necessary. wearing different waists
To make the costume more or less dressy.
The coming fashion will make a gown of
each sortsalmost essential.
In the pictures shown herewith are three
smooth cloth models and one rough cloth
SPIT. The seated woman displays a violet
wolfe trimmed with the same shade of cluny
lace. Beside this is a soft gray cloth, fin
ished with stitched shaped pieces. At the
right i'm the second large picture is a brown
venetian cloth trimmed with escurial lace.
The walking costume was brown cheviot.
Zibeline promises to be in high favor among
rough goods. 1t is offered i'm novelty weaves
showing stripes and plaids. as we'll as in
plain sorts. There is no more dressy rough
goods. Invisible check suitings are pretty,
and will wear well. These are rough. but
more on the onier of cheviots than of zibe-
lines.
Many street dresses i'm rough goods are
on view. and they suggest that SO long as
the goods is of the right kind, the manner of
making may be one of many that are per-
missible. Many coats are three-quarters
length. but they may be tight-ftting all
around. cut away like a mans coat, tight in