davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-09

Ing UP new combinations and finding some
thing which has not been sprung on the
public before.
do you make special study of the &C
tresses whom you are costuming?' was
asked.
THAT depends. Inthe case of a star. If 1
am not well acquainted with her spnear-
ance complexion, hair coloring. figure,
height, &c, ask for an interview. but
when I am costuming chorus it IL not
necessary
do the managers ever restrict you In
your ideasi'
'T'hey used to. but now can dictate my
own terms. I simply will not allow cos
tune to be spoiled by anybody else's ideas
on the subject. unless l happen to think
them better than my own"
DO you have anything to do with cos
tune after it leaves your hands"
oh. yes. usually attend dress re-
hearsal. I take along a man or woman to
the girls as they come out
Sometimes make radical changes and
sometimes trifiing ones. but insist upon
having those changes made, II they are
necessary. No matter how well one may
have ina gined the effect Of certain COM
binations Of color, when ono sees them es
Odsse under the calciums there will be
different Impressions produced and, while
as q general thing not much alteration Is
what becomes of all these beautiful
coetumes?'
The chorus girl liz VIGOROUSLY careless
Of her costumes probably because she does
not provide them hersslf. They rarely
last beyond one season, sometimes not even
that. The laces. chifYons. silks and thin
materials, OF which so many Of these are
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-09

extended some Inequalities to me On
several occasions, gleefully told them 70
send down anything they wanted to pare
with. I actually moved out some Of my
own truck to make room for theirs.
AT the last moment they said they had
forgot about the parrot and thought maybe
would like to have 1t added 10 the list
It was too late TO make any other arrange
ments, and / took the parrot. with tbs
understanding that the jsnitor was 20
come after It the next day
That functionary has since informed
me that the people had never said parroe
to him, and that he had sworn of on parrots
when he quit keeping bird store on Third
avenue. There was nothing for me TO do
except keep the parrot.
The people downstairs did not 60 away
The man ia a FrenohmaD, his wife Is an
Italian. his first wife was a Swede. There
are two ssts of children. three In ono sss
and two in another.
Il made the mistake Of NV life in getting
acquainted with that Fpnchman. Hs
thinks ] am lonesome, and he raises all ths
windows Oh the court in his fat, and l get
the benefit OF The bed,an that takes plaos
down there every night.
He has taken sorne body's cat to board
tor the summer AID the cat bowls in this
court The whole hlcssed night. 1t begins
about the time the French-Htalian- Swedish
brood hangs UP for the evening.
When the cat breaks out il IL the signal
for the dog am keeping to make his pres
enoe felt, and when the dog starts the psrros
wakes up ana tries 60 get even.
The people who live on the third floor
I fairly forced my acquaintance on then>-.
have suddenly become quite literary, and
they have borrowed every book have,
40 that l have to buy now ones, which /
hide under my mattress, and II am reading
one when they come down for AT evening
I chuck II under the r1,g
Il am going TO NOV. when my lease ts
up, ard when ! get into a new nelghbor-
hood / am going 10 be real New Yorker.
am not going 10 know anybody.
Real New Workers. used to make me
tired, bu. ! have come to the conclusion
that they know more about ,he kroblern
OF being happy in fats than tic, Take
ON as whole, they are pretty cute lna'
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-09

made. are perishable and can not be reno.
vated.'
What would you say 1t cost the mana se-
ment TO put on ayt rage play. that is the ooss
for the designs and having the costumes
made up?"
Roughly speaking should say Sl5.oOs
but. OF course, one can only give a general
estimate. II might be $4,000 or $4,000
change in the costumes for one chorus
would mean hundreds OF dollars"
DO the actresses for whom you design
ever make any suggestions which they
.oh, sometimes. little personal ideas
are given which try to use, II possible.
The only way to do with woman is to
let her have her own way. Then you won't
have any trouble. 1t is hard. though, some
times. when there are two women and only
one way"
He showed a stunning costume design.
you see that? That was intended FOR
the design for the widow in a reccstuminH
Of one of the new plays. A second widow.
play, came in and saw it. She Immediately
insisted upon having that particular cos.
tune or she wouldn't play.
I tried TO- hedge, didn't dare tell her
that 1t was intended for her rival. Jus4
then the first widow comes In and asks
nonchalantly II her costume design Wa
finished. She saw II In the others handN
Then there was trouble.
What happened7'
"Oh, suppose l compromised. Told
the second that her particular style OF
beauty deserved something better and Of
fered TO replace the design she had by ons
better than any OF the present successes.
/ simply tell that as an instance Of tho
troubles and trials Of the designing man.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-09

over solid black, big black hat with vivid
ponsetta leaves, long chain Of alternate
links Of black Dnd red.
THAT. and he Illuminated for moment.
y think possibly THAT might cost about
$780,
Stage money or real money!
"Oh, in stage money that would cost
about $1,000. l wis speaking of the real
cost"
Are the costumes made here"
Nearly all the theatrical are made at
the stores on Sixth avenue and Broadway,
except the simple ones which are turned
out by dressmakers.'
What is the most expensive one you
ever designed"
A white satin gown for Lillian Russell.
Il was painted by hand with American
Beauty roses, trimmed with Irish point lace
and studded with rhinestones and tur-
quoises. II Co.'S $500 TO make up"
what would you say is the secret Of
your work. That is, the keynote that
makes it different from ordinary costume
designing for the woman of fashion,"
Casually speaking, would say eIaggera-
ton. You see if ] note anything on the
street, at the theatre, At the restaurant,
which attracts my attention and I think
there are possibilities in it for stage produce
ton, I accentuate 1t. pun in little tang.
make the hats higher on the side and push
them forward a little, make big chains
where the woman Ct fashion wears small
ones, tilt the skirts here. there or the other
place wherever the mode dictates, only
the fitting is more pronounced.
Emphasis is the secret of success in
stage costuming. Then with color / make
striking contrasts, big. broad dashee.'
Where do you get your ideas?"
Some from observation, hut the most
of them ara absolutely tie result of in
SEPARATION, impulse. whatever YOU may call
il. have few books by famous costum-
ere-those of Racinet and Kretscfrner, for
instance--and / have read them carefully;
but at the best they can only suggest. One
has to depend on oneself for the originality
which is the secret of SUCCESS in stage COS
turning as in every other form Of art
do you see much change in your pro-
fesson since YOU have been in American
II have been here five years and with
every season have more work 70 do, and
find the probability that stage pro-
auctions will become more and moro mag
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-09
rALE Defends HER COACHES.
Alumni In Favor Of Retaining Professional
Athletic MENTORS

Yale believes in professional ooachin q
for every branch of athletics and no matter
what might be said 10 the contrary the
New Haven institution of learning intends
10 stick by its present methods Of tuition
in physical culture. At Harvard there is
an inclination to introduce the amateur
coach, after the fashion at Oxford and
Cambridge; but it is many wear, evidently,
before such al idea will gain footing with
Eli. Since Lehman Of Cambridge came
to coach the Harvard rowing men in 1898
the Crimson wetbobs have since been
tutored by amateurs, with disastrous re-
suits Ia competition.
Of late Yale has relied on professional
coaching in tho aquatic department, and
her victories over Harvard have shown
that there Is some wisdom in the belief
Kennedy the professional has charge Of
the oarsmen, and there is every likelihood
thai az long as he turns out crews that can
show superior form To Harvard he ia sure
of being retained in his present position
The sarr" way the track team ia not going
to part with the seryioes of Mike" Murphy,
except great temptations are forthcoming
from other quarters III leading editorial
"a NV ! "'' ht"tNs 'SSNU ol LiSt week
these two mentions of muscular exercise
were warmly defended MS follows:
"'The critics Of the Use Of profession ais
say that witt them you cannot have the
r-lt spirit. Our contention is that YOU
vii. get just as much of the right spirit
from professionals AZ you will from ANA
tours. 1t all depends whethsr You intend
10 yet it OF not. In other words, 1t rests
with the captain ard the advisers as to
whether they intend 20 have their teams
run on fair and honorable and generous
lines or whether they arc going to deveIop
in their players the determination 10 win
At any cost. We are very free TO say that
We have seen al least an bad results from
bad amateur coHohins. from graduates OF
different colicges as we have ever seen
from anything that was learned from those
who make il their honorable business TO
teach athletic sport. Those who know
best, men like Kennedy and Murphy Of
Yale, like 10 se'e them Ii charge Of bodies
oi young men because OF tho good influ-
ence they DcheNr they have over them
| II there has bcel Anything which does
Lot make for fair play and right living ia
Yale navy teachings III recent years, We
have YET to learn Of H. We might mention
other professional teachers ~ athletics,
loIaNly one o. two IN the larger prepara-
tory schools, who, we believe, are Going
their part quite as we'll in the instruction
Of the youth under them as any Of the
regular members Of the faculties" -
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-09
LESSONS FOR A FLAT DWELLER
A NEWCOMER LEARNS WHY CITY
PEOPLE ARE NOT SOCIABLF.
He Began by Trying TO Get Acquainted
with Fills Neishbors, and Quickly DIG
covered Why New Workers Fight Shy
Requests He Brought Upon Himself.

Sometimes a man who has been brought
UP in q small town or in the country comes
to New York to live, and about the first
complaint he makes. il he lives in a fat,
10 that people In the city are not so neigh
borly as the people where he came from.
II he stays in New York long enough he
gets a glimmer of the reason.
At least one man did, who gro~led the
first year he lived in New York because
people were not sociable, He was a fat
dweller, and by his inccssant efforts 10 be-
come acquainted he finally succeeded In
knowing lot Of people in his block
THE first summer was here he says.
Il had no vacation, and it astonished me
to find out how thar information got abroad.
First one Of my reighnors said he and
his wife were going away for few weeks,
and az ] was going to stay in the building
they thought maybe I'd like to take their
canary while they were away It would
b. company for me, and they would fur
nish the seed and the clttlebone.
Il had rather forced my acquaintance
upon these people. and Of course, felt my
self under obligations TO dc any little thing
they asked. took the bird,
"A friend. or rather an ncquaint nnce,
few doors away, whom had won by con-
tinuous attentions, came In few evenings
after and asked me il liked dogs. Az
We say in our COUNTY,, 7 was raised with
dogs.
10 said he had very gentle creature
that wac nearly a. much company as a
good story cellar. He had 10 go away
and lie did not know what TO DO with the
deg He did not want 10 turn him over
TO anybody. Maybe would Ike to take
the dog for couple ns wrets'
while love = dog think he has his
place, hut Go not think any deg was eter
bUIn 20 live in a New York fat. It's bad
enough for q man to have to i've IN one.
But u nan can get even, sometimes. How
ever. took the dog us an accommodation.
When tho peopls who live upstairs
asked me Il would allow them TO store a
LOT Of their winter clothes and some heir
looms In my quarters for safety while they
were away wondered II they thought
had nothing i'll my Cat. but a. thsy had
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-09
CAPITAL OF The RED FLAG,
ANARGHl'S HEADOJ ARYERS rs
OVER BACK or HGBOKEN. \. y.
And lis congress Meets in Beer Garden
Booze for Ever. body. and the sal"on-
keeper Fipda Hts Money IN Box
yt's the EauE That Produced Brestf.

When Insnector McCluslSy assigned De-
taci'ive petrcsirlo TO look up tine record
in this County of the notorious Italian
Anarchist Psiniggiani, Petrosino was not
long IL Jeciding GA the place where he was
most likely to Learn wha; ne wac after. 1t
was amorg the Anarchists that Petrosino
went, and he found them over in New
s@,i scy. rhere they were having picnic
and enjoying themselves much as other
people do.
In tine string Of haii-tdfeign settlements
ca. tho all above Hojuken there are let
ii ArGrrfriets. They 1.-Two quietly in the
daytime, but at night meet their brethren
VINO come ornr from New York and In queer
little places run by persons not tlnfriendly
10 rllem they male fierce SPEECHES ard
drink beer tapped in u way consistent with
snarchy's teachings.
Some Of them are known TO their neigh
hors as Anarchists, but hey cause no trouble
in West Hohoken or any of the adjoining
towns and nobody nolests them. The po-
ht,s are never called to their meeting
places by reasons of murder, assaults. or
ever rows. In times like these the Red" has
nothing against hiS neighbor, so they say.
The nojghbors don't SEEN to have a great
deal against the Anarchists.
II you ask the Anarchists pcghbor II
no Knows what goes on at the meetings.
he will probably Shrug his shoulders and
laugh. Then, pcrhsrs. bis face will sud-
denly assume d serious expression and
with another shrug be will say:
Put it is from one OF those meetings that
Bresci went 10 kill Umberto.'
II is not uncommon for the Anarchists
TO hold picnios Ia the parks Of Eas, New
Durham and West New York. It was
to one Of these picnics that Petrosino went
20 get information about Psrmiggiani. 1t
was reunion Of Anarchists from all the
Vicinity, but IL was peaceful reunion
Al the sanla time, evidently, the Anarch-
lists were a little dietrustful Of the police,
for they did not disclose in their posters
Just where the picnic was going To be-
They had little tickets printed and all these
tickets said was: "Picnic Of International
Anarchists. These cards are posted on
certain telegraph poles when tho "Reds"
give a picnic.
There wore ma ny Italians, but some
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-09

While Pretty Peggv. ne s"0d" o. SUN
the Prince of Piisen I'D other notobilities
are forgetting the prestige and rank as
they dir, daily ir lho surf. play golf on the
links Of some summer hotel or take long
walks In {, der TO obtain the necossary
Burpe Jc,esy figures. will Il. Barnes sits
day after day in bis studio in West Twenty
ninth street, turning out water color de-
signs for the theatrical enterprises Of tho
coming winter.
Mr.. Barnes Is an Australian by birth
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-09

or perhaps cast OF the Bowery-tall vases
filed with property flowers. loin cloths
from the Fiji Islands and GAUGES from
Venice and Switzerland. There are jewclled
chains from the shops in the Rie do la
Paix, laces from the Brussels arcades. and
ioearies from Notre Dame. Interminglsd
are faces. known and unknown, Of stars
Some of the most interesting bits OF
property Il, this studio are the silk pieces
concealed in out OF the way hooks which
ara taken out by tho handful and exhibited
under the electric light for inspectic n.
These are the color schemes from which
Mr.. Barnes gets his ideas. There are sum
act sheens, queer blues. green's and yello VS..
underweaves OF ontrasting ehades, clouded
silks, satins, deep piled velvets, handmade
laoes, all exhibiting some unusual color or
weave,
Mr.. Barnes takes these pieces in his hands
and deity combines shades as a woman
might for a silk lap robe or some other
piece Of work where many bits Of N ateris
arc put together
That is one difference between this coun-
try and the other sids,' said Mr.. Barnes
in answer 20 a question concerning ma
terials.
"Thery. when an artist desires an out
OF the way color, all he has to dc is to show
his samples 20 dealer and they are OBJ
tanned for him Of the exact color desired.
for if they are not ia stock they are dyed.
Here one must use " hat is in the stores
" is almost impossible to get Just what
one wants. il that something happens 70
lie an out OF the wav material or shade
He waved In the air a long white scarf
plertiiuIly besprinkled with huge polka
dots, about the size Of poker chips,
That's about the only thing you can get
done here" he went on; ayou can have
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-09
STREET. UMBRELLA TRADE.
4 Business That Has Taken an Upward
start In Rainy weather OF Late.

Evidently the business OF selling UNI
brelas In the street In rainy weather has
proved profitable, for where year ago
one such vender VIVA to he snen a dozen
now appear, In fact, on stormy days
umbrella vendors ere now TO be found
standing on the c'lrbstone in busy thorough
fares all over town, Offering their wares TO
The umbrelIaless paeserby.
The umbrellas thus offered are o. quite
variety as TO handles, but they are, it is
TO be presumed, pretty much OF same
ness az TO their quality, and they are GER
tainly exactly alike in one respect; namely,
as to their nricc. which is everywhere IS
cents
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-09
SURE A HOODOO KILLED HER.
RICHMOND NEGROES ALARMED
BY A WOMAN'S DEATH.
She Said a Rival Paid y yoodoo Doctor
TO Deprive Her First Of Her Lover
and Then OF Her Life-White People
Among the COnJurer's Customers.

Among the COnJurer's Customers.
RICHMOND, Va, Aug. S-The recent death
Of Annie BraXton. colored woman Of this
city, has left her surviving relatives In a
state Of fear little short Of panic. The
woman died declaring that the spell OF a
conjurer was bringing her to TIE grave.
aud before her death she described the
methods of the voodoo doctor, who ehe
said had PVT the spell upon her.
Daniel Braxton, her father. and tho other
four or five members of the family 60 In
fear OF further evil. They have spent their
money upon witches TO remove the spell
placed upon the family,
Before her death, Annie Braxton declared
that the spell had been cast upon her at
the instance of woman enemy, who wanted
her place as servant with a white family.
She also said that previously the same
woman mad caused her to lose her sweet
heart through voodoo spell.
After her lover deserted her Annie dis
covered her enemy's work and vowed that
she would spend her last dollar to fix her
The other woman consulted her voodOo
doctor and paid her fee for the death of
Annie,
Soon after Aulie became i'll and had to
give UP her place with the white folks
Her enemy stepped into IL. Annie declared
that she was being &C ~ ured 10 death. but
the father answered that she was a CON
s,unptive, and that there was nothing in
conjuration.
Look in the weIi,- said AMMO. you
will find the roots Of the voodoo man there
The father looked, and certain dead
roots were found IN the we'll
At the solicitation Of the sick woman
voodoo man was called in. He studied hsr
case anG said that for IS he could remove
the spell. The money was paid. and he
called nGain. lie demanded another pay
lneGt Of SIS.
He declared that the hoodoo had been
placed in the drinking water and was .nldly
He gave hpr z mixture which he said would
remove the spell, but he kept asking Tor
money.
Tho father finally wearied of rqying
and told the oGIi ii was time To kill or cure
In the meanwhile Annie was Nerv near
death. She said that the spell upon her
was drawing her flesh from Ter bones ard
she could feel H.. There was something
dusty Ia what was given her TO drink,
II IL in the form Of dust that the deadly
hoodoo works. The dust Of human bones,
Of blaoksnake skins, or Of frog skins. when
administered by the voodoo man, OF under
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-09

window where he can lure the overworlsed
north light to his bidding as long az it lasts.
Even in the day time. however, he uses
the electric and gas lights, as IT is absolutely
necessary for him to get effects OH materials
Of varying shades and tints. Of every kind
Of illumination.
The appointments Of the studio are in
teresting. There are copies OF old prints
from Europcsn galleries, bits OF draperies
from .he Orent.--an elaetic term which
means any place from Egypt to Salamanca.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-09

their own questions, and laugh at their
own Jokes while he throws bits OF color
on his paper with unorring brush. in the
midst OF the confusion. As one manager
plaintiyely remarked:
with one stroke Of his brush Barnes
can make a costume cost anywhere from
fifty to hundred dollars after you think
1t is all finished
what is the usual cost OF costume,
like, for instance this?'
The ouestioner held up one Of the sket ches
which showed chic young woman attired
In flesh colored tights with black lace over
them, showing the figure through it's trans
parent meslles. bolero Of rhinestones
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-09
THE SUN. SUNDAY. AUGUST 9. 1908.

niacent, which means, Of course, that more
designs will be needed. For instance, when
I began my work for American managers.
Weber a. Fields had but fourteen girls In
the chorus. To-day they have forty
an immense amount of extra work for them
alone.
"The tendency is to the spectacular. not
alone in stage setting and lighting, but In
the costumes Women 10 to the theatre
for ideas for their gowns, just as they 90
into a department store opening or the
field day cf an importing establishment.
Thew must have novelty OF idea. OF color
combination, of effects.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-09

butt q ripple Of turquoise under silvery
surface followed--'H | should try to get
material and color like that where would
/ go2' He shrugged his shoulders: Paris
Is The plase for those things. You can
pick up all sorts of fascinating materials
there that you don't even know the name
of-orisntal things and experiments in
weaving and ali that. Here after you
have run the gamut of silk. velvet, satin
and lace, there is nothing left except span
giles" ....,
do you send in for playa
"Of course that depends on the number
in the chorus and the changes. For the new
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-09
urr,en's Orders yindIca,c.
From kr .iiciison Giobc.

each other, got into 0 quarrel over some
rocks spG dirt and finally mGde clinch At
each woman. caught glimpse Of certain
lodge emblem on The .o;he! Wonnp's collar,
ana the ClihCh changed 70 l. hUg.. the attempt
to bite to a kiss, and the hands stretched
forth 10 CLAW met in rhc grasp OF good fellow
ship And still scoFers say women should
not be lodge joiners
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-09
YA0HT RACES IN THE PARK.
Young America Decides the Cup Match
Hundred Times a Day.

This is boom season for the trade 10
toy bouts, which IL due. of course, to the
international Cup races Tho general public
interest il tho coming contests on Sandy
Hook percolatcs down to the youngsters.
and almost every hoy and girl wants
miniature Reliance or Shamrock III,
Tho small boats follow, as closely ~
toys can, the models of the big raoers.
and whole fleets Of them may he seen every
day racing on the small boat pond Ia Qao6rsR
Park.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-09

with a strain Of Hibernian not at all care
fully concealed about him His studio
is combination OF the workroom. the
shrine Of an aesthetic and the cou ntry store.
where one can get everything from dia-
mond ring TO red flannel shirt
His big table with water color paper.
pencil sketches. brushes, colors, palettes
scnt,rrod over ii stands i'm frort OY the