Lewiston evening teller. [volume] (Lewiston, Idaho) 1903-1911, 1903-12-19

for mid-winter wear show that unus-
ual emphasis will be placed upon the
details of the bodice, especially as re-
CARDS shoulder trimmings. For slim
figures there are novel effects in epau-
lettes pelerines and capelets, while for
women more generously endowed by
nature there are designed simple, blue
effective Jokes and decorations for the
upper part of the sleeve.
If such be possible, velvet gowns are
more fashionable than ever. The craze,
however, is for the lighter and more
lustrous weaves such as panne and
chiffon velvet. A chic costume becom-
ing alike to slim and stout figures is in
black trimmed profusely with black
lace over white silk. The front panel
of the skirt is composed of a mar
row strip of the velvet sandwiched be-
tween two bands of lace over silk wide
enough to complete the allowance for
the gore.
Around the bottom of the skirt there
is a graduated fiounce also of the lace
and silk, but the greatest width is at
the front. Buttoning over the f1ounce
are velvet tabs piped with tiny white
satin cords. Around the hips there is
a yoke to match the f1ounce. This,
however, is APPARENTLY divided into two
parts, Joined by band of velvet piped
with the same satin cord that adorns
the tabs on the lower part of the skirt.
More of the lace covered silk is
shown of the bodice than the velvet.
The yoke and lower part of the waist
are developed in these materials and a
scalloped band of velvet extending
across the top of the sleeves joins
them together. Down the front there
is straight strip of the trimming in
terlaced with black and white silk
cords tied at regular intervals and tiny
black chiffon rosebuds dangling from
the loops of the cord. The entire sleeve,
except the tops and narrow cuffs are
made of the lace the part above the ell
bow being tucket into the velvet border.
Another toilette, a little more exact
ing about the figure of the wearer is
shown in plum colored wolfe. The
skirt is the distinguishing feature 1t
is arranged in puffs about five inches
wide from the waistline to the knees,
although the upper shirrings might be
a little closer together. Below the
knees the voile' flares into a graceful
f1ounce.
The bodice has a vest of imitation
Honiton lace over chiffon and liberty
satin. Above the bust line the vest
broadens into a yoke which extends
ol,s.,
halfway to the elbows. Below these
points the sleeves are puffed and met
at the elbow by close fitting deep
cuff.
A smart toque of plum colored vel
vet trimmed with shaded velvet roses
and lace completes the toilette.
Nearly all cape effects began only
a few inches from the sleeve seam over
the shoulders and from there to the
stock the finish is fiat so that the trim
mings can be arranged in yoke effect.
Medallions of embroidery combined
with bands of silk joined by fagotting
or appliques of lace edged with chiffon
and tiny bands of fur are used very ar
tistically in this connection. Shoulders
that are very broad look well in
stitched strappings over the shoulder
seams. These may fall over on the
sleeves and be finished with buttons of
handsome braided silk ornaments.
For outdoor wear tailor made
dresses and soldier" coats have capes
of army blue and military gray to
match the material of the dress or coat.
They are trimmed with gold eagles,
BRASS buttons and other military ac-
coutrements, but unless one can afford
several changes such extreme fashions
are not advisable. Then they smack
decidedly of the mannish and if there is
one thing which the well-dressed
woman avoids above another this sea-
son. 1t is the masculine modes.
Gold buttons, however, are used on
many smart dresses for afternoon wear
especially hose made with the smart
little French coats. Contrasting
dalntily with the button trimming are
the facings of white satin deliberately
embroidered in black with dashes of
color which are seen upon these coats
ms arrangement is cleverly conceived
Tor on occasions which so much orna-
mentation seems inapropos, the coats
can easily be buttoned and the facing
shut from view.
The dyed valenciennes laces are ac-
commodated admirably to purse strings
"hos ends are reached quickly. The
rage for coloring laces to match the
gown has been extended to the fine as
well as coarse laces and the result is
SHOWN I'm many tasteful trimmings, es-
pecially on separate bodices of mex
pensive fabrics. A dinty design Is in
pale blue India silk accordion plated
and hung from yoke of dyed yalen-
clennes lace threaded with chenille. The
sleeves are shirredy to- the elbow and
from here fall oyer;a cuff0 of lace. gath
cred into a wrisfband Of silk
Ennirclinn ftun .r.ainA ---4s - 4onlod