Evening journal., 1903-10-01
Styles for Mems Wear


plastic state. ready for forming, but
not yet formed. Radical innovations
In dress / do not look for this autumn,
says a correspondent Of Haberdasher
Il viii be a season Of brightness and
color, Of richer tones and warmer hues
but there are no signs that custom and
tradition Will be Jared II fashion
has a card up its sleeve, it will pertain
to details rather than essentials. The
well dressed man OF autumn, naughty
three" will show the same regard FOR
the niceties OF attire that have long
distinguished the American gentleman.
He will studiously avoid anything that
renders him too conspicuous, and he
will continue TO shun the popular as
he would a pestllence.
with the donning Of more formal at
tire wing collars win be favorites. The
long narrow wing has given place to
Smaller affairs that ft the neck rather
snugly and give a tidier effect The
best model of wing collars win be some
what high, have narrow stitching and
less space between the tabs. Square or
round points are optional, though I
fancy the square Will be more sought.
Round points have never really passed
beyond the fad stage, aud this, Joined
to the fact that they are featured by
low priced shops, tends TO render them
unacceptable TO many men. Poke col
lars for evening and formal day wear
should taper gracefully from the neck
outward. Pokes with snippy points
are odious. Standing collars with
fronts just meeting and straight stand
ers with overlapping fronts are correct
for formal occasions. Fold collars are
out of it from a strictly fashion point
of view, as they are really a summer
style. However, they viii be worn to
business, and both square and round
points are permissible. All collars will
have soft, dead white, insterless finish.
Coming TO shirts for informal wear,
the plated garments are good. Plaits
are somewhat narrow, and the grounds
consist of stripes or swiveled units.
Colors are a bit pronounced, in har-
mony with the general tendency Of
autumn dress toward more sharply de-
MnlA NlA1AArs w n0A AAAhh AA1A AAI
bosom shirts made up Of two fabrics,
one in cuffs and bosom and the other
in body and sleeves. win go with the
best trade. Cross stripe bosoms are
mooted, but conditions just now are
not favorable to their introduction.
High class custom shirt makers have
shown them tentatively and, 80 far as
H. Ia
ment. Dress shirts have undergone no
change. The very simple affair with
plain bosom is correct.
In cravats it's a season Of large
shapes. The wing and poke collars
look well only with cravats Of generous
widths. For business wear big squares
and broad four-in-hands win be prop
er, while for formal day wear the ascoi
promises TO hold first place. Narrow
four-in-hands, small ties and skimp,
cravats generally are passe. Brillian
designs are favored in cravatings, ans
the lover of brightness and color MAJ
give free rein to his taste withou
transgressing the proprieties. OF cours
exciusiyeness Of pattern counts 70
much. and the well dressed man vii
60 TO any length to obtain it. Four-in
hands viii have moderately tight, ful
knots while ascots viii be adjusted
with a freer and more flowing effect
SO called dress protectors are not L
be thought Of. The smart muller vii
be the big thirty-six inch shape IL
plain black. plain white or sober mix
lures. In both crnvats and mufliers IN
dividuality Of pattern and plenitude OF
fabric are the marks Of the upper class
article.
Venhring into the domain Of the
tailor as contradistinguished from that
Of the habcrdasher. the frock coat foI
a man 8 feet s inches high will be
forty inches long and made OF. worsted
vicuna. The lapels viii be long and
medium width and win be silk faced
to the buttonhole. Jackets will be
made without the leng roll which has
come TO be the badge Of the ready
made garment. Square cut double
breasted jackets will have three but
tons The two button affair has beer
relegated TO the sartorial bone yard
Round cut jackets will have the sam
cutaway effect in front which distin
guished spring garments. The slighI
military fare in the back is still II
] vogue, and the jacket win have a cen
ter vent. Trousers will be moderated,
wide at the hip, twenty inches at th'
knee and seventeen inches at the bot
tom.
Evening dress shows but sligh
changes. Coats are the same length
with tails a trife more peaked and Ia
pels silk faced TO the edge Cloth. no
velvet, collars are correct Trouser
measure twenty inches at the knee anl
seventeen inches at the bottom. Th
evening jacket has a narrower Lapel
with longer roll. The waistcoat
three button and u shaped. So far a
overcoats 20. the covert top coat. rathe
p short and very full, promises to b
/ more Of a factor than heretofore. Tn
4 long Chesterfield. exceedingly plain 4
Z cut and trimming, and the skirted Goa
will divide honors. The Chesterfield
will measure forty-four inches. reacl
below the knee and fall straight fror
b. the shoulders. All overcoats win hay
To- broaef pockets