The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-05-17
TEAGOWNS ON SHIPB0ARD NOW
AND LOW.NECKED FROCkS AT THE
DINNER TABLE.

Growing Elaboration Of Woman's Ocean
| travelling Costunes--Reception Cos
TUNES for the Departure-The Blue
Flannel Suit OF Old No Longer Possible.
There has been a remarkable change
OF late in the style Of woman's dress when
crossing the ocean. As the big liners have
increased in size and splendor woman's
seagoing outfit has grown in smartness.
The gown of serviceable dark blue fan
mel or serge, cut short and trimmed with
rows of braid embroidered anchors and
other nautical devices, has completely
disappcared from the first-class cabin.
In fact nowadays dark blue flannel Ia
practically monopolized by the sailors
The woollen costume that now appears
on the promenade deck differs not at all
from those one sees Of cool morning
on Fifth avenue or the Strand, unless, in
deed, it is a triAe more natty. Women
have begun to find out that there is no
moro advantageous place for the display
Of feminine charms than the deck OF an
ocean steamer. As a result. from the
start to the finish Of voyage, the old ideas
governing the feminine wardrobe have
been discarded.
The change is particularly noticed at the
time OF the spring exodus OF American
fashionables to Europe and again when
they come back. On the departing steamer
AZ hands and handkerchiefs are waved from
deck and from shore it is eHsy to see
that the women on deck are far more
deliberately clad than their waiting friends.
Women drive up to the gang plank cl; d
in trailing silks and satins and picture
hats loaded with pumes or flowers. LII
! -hA b.. "a.
tense of being fashionable now leaves or
arrives in port clad in travel Ing dress
The costume selected for both occa sions
is identical with that worn at a smart after
noon req option, and it, sole Guty u TO- play
spects cular part at either end of the
VOYAGE Out of sight Of the harbor 1t II
taken of and hung up not to be donned
again, probably, until the time OF de-
barkation comes
An outcome Of this one feature of fsshion
is that the amount Of baggage taken on
board is much greater than 1t once was
The men who build the steamers and run
them noticed this tendency long ago and
in consequence, the lstter-day designs re-
serve place in the upper hold not great
way from the sta terooms for trunks when
may be needed during the trip.
At one time everything except teamer
trunk and a bag or two was consigned TO
the hold and was parted absolutely from
it's owner while at sea. To-day if a steamer
sails early in the morning and a woman
elects to go on board the night before, as
likely as not she drives directly from dinner
or other entertainment to the pier clad
in evening satins and slippers which she is
confident may he packed away after reach-
ing her stateroom.
But the alluring arriving and departing
creation is not the only new manifestation
in connection with an up-to-date steamer
wardrobe. The ea-gown, for instance mas
made its appearance aboard ship.
Now, II there is one garment more than
another which few years ago would have
been put down as entirely superfiuous
on an ocean voyage, 1t Is tea gown. Great
respect. was paid to the flannel wrapper
the Quilted robe de chamber, but atea-
gown? Ridiculous!
But the ridiculous has come to pass, and
for this reason: women are much bet'er
sailors than they used to be, simply because
| to hundreds OF them a sea voyage Is no
longer novelty. For example, the sail,
ing lists of many OF the best steamers record
the same names over and over again season
after season. Well-to-do Americans now
take trip abroad as they take any other
health prescription-as matter OF course 'ss
Even the wage earners have got into me
habit of spending their holiday on the
other side OF the Atlantic.
| Therefore, it has come to pass that, IN
stead OF going abroad fortified with medi-
cines and fannels, wonan's chief anxiety
has come to be that the most becoming
brand Of cosmetics shall be in her toilet
case and her most picturesque garments
packed in the stateroom luggage. tea
gown, AZ most people know, is one Of the
most fetching creations woman can don
II il even more becoming oil board the
steamer than 1t 10 ashore.
Naturally, the woman who is limited to
one berth In a small stateroom has little or
no IKE for ea-gown. But the newer
steamers have plenty OF staterooms of fairly
good size, to say nothing of the deck suites
and many Of them are taken by one woman
boz frn Ia nj
an afternoon very much as she does in her
drawing room at home, and she receives
| in her tea gown.
IL any one i'm agincs that the New York
woman while bound for the other side
spends every moment religiously on deck,
shifting in the health-giving ozone so highly
recommended by the medical profession,
let him abandon that idea in hurry 1t
is not true. Only the novices stick fast ia
the steamer chair from morning till night.
that ia, when they are able to leave their
berths The woman of fashion who mas
crossed and recrossed many times does
! nothing Of the sort.
After late breakfast: or i, may be not
until an hour or 80 before luncheon. she
appears on deck and remains until the
midday meal is served After that she
goes to her room for beauty nap and later
receives, usually by appointment one OF
more special friends,
ago that at all events it was much better
for the complexion to take a nap in one
sateroom than to sit In steamer chair
on deck.
Il freckle frightfully while at sea, she
confessed. "and for that rea son Ait on
deck very seldom except in fog.
Fashionable women. however. have found
way to avoid the understands results OF
too big dose of fresh air aud sunshine by
enamelling their faces. Many of them. 90
| on board provided with a lotion that when
carefully applied protects the skin effect
uallv. TO tone down the CHASTITY effect.
touch OF rouge goes on over the enamel
and the whole is protected from the garlsh
light of day. and incidentally from the
critical ewes Of fellow travellers, by thin
veil. go
Thus protected. u woman may with I'm
punity ST. on deck an day; as most OF those
do who arr obliged to put up with state
rooms in the more stuffy parts Of the ship
This enamel by the way, is always removed
as soon as possible. which Is as soon as the
wearer goes TO her room to dress Tor dinner
The d6colete gown has made It's APP
pearancc aboard ship and Is the outcome,
most likely, of the establishment OF small
tables in the dining room TO take the place
Of the long ones which for 40 many years
were feature of every ocean steamer
In the dining rooms Of tn" last additions
to the pass snger ocean fleet, each table
seats about eight persons, and II If notlcea
} BILE that already there is More or ens rivalry
among some OF the parties who SECURE