The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-07-12
PICNICNCONSTANTINOPL
Greatly A SERIOUS TIME IN IN
DRESS AND SHIRT SLEEVES"
The Road to AIem Dagh Is Long and
Dusty, and desperately Rough
and Bone-Dreaking."
Letter In London Times.

can be counted upon TO remain fine for a
few days together. And when people out
here go on a picnic it is no run up To Hamp-
stead Heath on a Sunday afternoon, but q
really serious time in undress and shirt
sleeves after the six months or social con-
v%entions in Pera during the winter. The
choice OF scene IS srather limited. Some
people like Yalova, where there is a French
hotel, and where hot natural baths attract
the relics of "hig-lif." wrecked and ex-
hausted by the calls made on their energies
by society during the past season. Those
whose men folk are obliged to go into town
at least once or twice a week cannot roam
far afield, and must be content with a place
like Yakadjik, only an hour or SOS drive
from a steamer Scala. But those who
mean business seldom trouble themselves
TO look further than Alem Dagh, which,
being interpreted, means the Mountain of
the World. The term, however. does not
imply SO much the mountain ridge itself as
a group OF a few villages which hide among
the forests that clothe its western base. the
nearest of which requires three hours and a
good carriage with a lusty pair of horses
to arrive at from any of the landing stages
OF Scutari, Haidar Pacha or Cardikeui on
the Asidtlc SnOTeS OIL the bospHoruS anu
Marmora.
We have chosen this. then, as our desti-
nation. and make up our party of half a
dozen men and as many women, or nearly
so, and agree to start at 8 in the morning
on the following Monday, the second in
May, so as to avoid the heat on the road,
which ia not only long and dusty, but des-
perately rough and Done-breaking. For
this reason 1t is not wise for more tnan two
fuiI-grown individuals to go in one vehicle,
so that what with ourselves, our servants
ana provisions, We have quite an imposing
caravan, in number OF wheels at least, even
IL In cattle and smartness we do not recall
memories OF the spring meet OF the Four
1n-tand Club. One thing Is certain-that
no modern coach, were 1T horsed ever SO
finely, would venture to attempt the jour
ney 10 Aiem Dagh We are now undertaking.,
and handsome is that handsome does. The
road was made by some previous Sultan to
lead to his shooting box built in the middle
OF the forest, but that was long ago, and
very little has been done to ii since in the
way of repairs. We occasionally recognize
that there must once lave been a road here
by seeing, or painfully feeling, the bedrock
foundation; but for most of the journey,
when once We have left the suburbs Of
Scutari or Haidar Pacha, our track runs
OBVIOUSLY to the right or the left of-in fact,
anywhere except on-the original road, the
remains of which are carefully avoided by
all prudent and expert coachmen.
TWO HOURS EASY" TROTTING.
After two hours easy trotting-the term
easy" is used euphemistically, and ap-
plies strictly to the rate of speed rather
than to the amount Of exertion put in by
the ponies, or to the comfort of the riders
We arrived at a roadside cafe without any
mishap more serious than one or two sim
pie and temporary breakdowns. Here, with
appetites sharpened by the morning air Of
the hills, over which We have been steadily
climbing from the start, a little refresh
ment Is INDUCED in; ham and caviar sand
witches, with coffee, and a flask of country
wine for those who prefer it to mastic, an
insidious. colorless liquor which at Con-
stantinople advantageously replaces the
absinthe of France or the vodky of Rus
sia being several degrees less poisonous.
While sitting there, a mounted turkish
patrol clatters up, and off saddles to water
the horses. There are eight troopers and an
officer, fine, workman-like fellows, who
cover some thirty or forty miles every day,
visiting, all the hamlets and farms within
this radius. 1t is soon time to mount again,
and a little before noon we strain up a
steepish KNOLL, to find ourselves in the
middle of a village, which is barely visible
from the ~chaussee, as our carriage and cart
track is magniloQuently styled. 1t ~rejoices,
or should do so, in the name of Sultan
Chifthk, but as the majority Of it's in
habitants are Armenians, they probably do
not appreciate this favor at more than it's
just value.
OPOf " lOuSlusS we are IL
most unanimously directed to the house Of
the chorbadjee, or headman, who is ac-
customed to take In foreigners, and whose
dwelling Is said to represent the acme Of
comfort, not to say luxury. We afterwards
find out that all the other available houses
are already occupied, which, perhaps, ex-
plains the unanimity on the subject. At the
threshold we are met by some feminine spec
linens of the Chorbadjee family in complete
deshabille, slippers down at heel, bare feet,
and hair anyhow. but, with smiling faces
m VOllhtQ OpaoffnOS uyolnonnfn" noI -
vltng US to enter. With some difficulty we
crag our cramped limbs from the carriages
wherein they have been jolted and pounded
since morning, and m a survey of
our prospective home for the next fortnight.
Downstairs there is a fair-sized room flush
with the street or main ~thoroughfare. 1t is
entered directly from a sort of stable, on
which the front door opens, and which
takes up the rest of the ground foor-in the
most literal sense, the floor being of mother
earth. The kitchen is slowed away some
where in an outbuilding. A narrow flight Of
a score OF steps leads to the upper story,
consisting OF a passage, and one room at
the back looking out over the fields, an
another on the street.
After some reflection we decide that the
men must share the front rooms, and the
four ladies must shift as best they can in
the m at the back. Not one of the
quartet would lever have consented to pass
a night In Pera without at least a bedroom,
dressing room and lady's maid to herself,
any more than she would have dreamed of
rising before 9 o'clock or going to bed before
midnight; but II in Rome one must do as
the Romans we at Alem Dagh must accom-
modate ourselves to rustic manners and GUS
toms. Washing arrangements are, as usual,
q great difficulty, and while the men douche
themselves in the garden, stable or where
most convenient, their gentler companions
have to take possession of the middle of the
floor and the India rubber tub in turn, while
the others keep free of the splashing by re-
treating into far corners. Needless to say.
there are no beds, and every one sleeps on
mattresses spread either on the divans or
the floor. the latter being generally voted
preferable, for reasons which travellers who
have had sleeping acquaintance with village
diyans will appreciate.
THE FIRST EVENING.
The first evening We dine on meats and
sweets prepared and brought out ready
cooked. disposed on a table constructed of
a scratch collection raised from neighbors.
artfully reduced TO a common level. and
covered with one cloth. There is also a
scarcity of chairs, or the equivalents; in
deed. there are but two with backs, the
rest of the company being seated on rush.
bottomed stools or piles Of coats. pillows
and other odds and ends. Such trifes, how
ever. do not interfere with hunger, and,
after a tremendous meal, we retire early
to roost. Six O'Clock next morning sees the
last and LATEST UP and dressed, and by Z
We are on our way through the forest TO
the spring of fash pelen. where we intend
TO lunch. The name means stone pierre
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