The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1903-08-13

- ARTS. July 25-The long tulle
wells which have heretofore COW
cred the face of the sentimental
bride are surely going out, and
the wedding gown of white
satin, which so long has dazzled our
ewes with its simmer, is going, too.
I do not mean that wells have been
totally discarded, but they are draped
over the hair, falling behind upon the
train and leaving the face uncovered;
while the wedding dress itself is of
some material suitable for future use
AZ Garden parties and "at homes" such
as embroidered lawns and muslins.
At a recent wedding at st. Philippe
du Roule the brides dress was an
exouisitely worked robe of white Indian
muslin. made with great simplicity, an
empire or Greek gown falling from
square of embroidered muslin upon the
neck. The veil was of the finest NOUS
seine de sole. draped effectively over
the hair. 1t left an impression of grace
and repose that stiff satin and hounced
chiffon could not give. To me 1t
seemed an ideal wedding gown, dainty
and dignihed.
NJ. Marcel Provost, the well known
novelist. has written a long article on
the subject of dress reform in one of
our daily papers, and the question
which the leading dressmakers nave SO
long scoffed at is now perforce pelng
seriously discussed by them. The
things argued for are, first, a dress
that does not sweep the streets; sec
oDd a corset which does not interfere
with the natural functions of the lungs
and digestive organs. The corset has
been attacked many, many times pc
fore. and not without good reason;
hut until we can find a satisfactory
substitute what can we do? II tne
dressmakers interest themselves IN the
movement there is some hope OF
solution to the vexing problem But
handful Of reformers, no matter now
we'll intentioned, cannot revoluuonlze
in day such a long established GUS
tom without the assistance OF the
technical workers. The latest discus
sion has brought to light two methods
of reform dress. One causes the weight
of the clothing to be borne upon the
shoulders: the other is a system of
braces. The brace system seems likely
to be the more popular of the two here;
although, if the question of elegance Is
studied, either may become popular.
Let the dressmakers show US a costume
of thin material such as lace inserted
lawn which can be attached to bras
siere or soutfen gorge-a form OF corset
that becomes a kind of short petticoat
bodice-and we will be ready to try it,;
or a tailor suit with a well cut skirt,
in a smart material, with dainty silk
braces and a coat that will fit and, if
only for the sake of novelty, we will
adopt it. Here in Paris there will be an
attempt made to place the reform cos
tune before the public; but it will be
with rich stuffs and embroideries and
hattering colors softly shaded, instead
of the ugly materials and colorings that
are worn in the northern cities, and
with more beauty than seems to have
entered into the reform movement in
Berlin and The Hague.
Some people say that the beautiful
and intricate new gored skirt, which
reminds one so much of the umbrella
skirt worn eight or ten years ago, is
the forerunner of an attempt to revive
the crinoline, but 1 feel quite certain
that the powers which preside over the
world of fashion are too intelligent to
try to revive such a monstrosity. espe-