The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1903-01-03
fFrom Chbcago TribnneN


(From Chicago Tribune.)
That fad of the New York girl to
have her gown reveal her mood is cleY-
erIy shown these Christmas holidays.
The new gowns for the Christmas fes-
tivities make you feel joyous and merry
just to see them.
This fad of the New York girl is not
such a frivolous fad as many which
heretofore she has adopted for her
own. The idea Of the gown affecting
the MOOD and vice versa is really based
on sound psychological truth-one
which says that the dress you wear has
a big effect on your physical condition.
From a glimpse of the gowns designed
for this holiday it would seem that the
New York girl has keenly appreciated
this fact
Her dinner gown, her theatre gown,
her dancing gown, and the gown which
she has had made especially for a
Christmas tree party are each war
ranted to make happy the girl who
wears them. They are not o1y fash
toned of exquisite fabrics and trimmed
in the most artistic manner, but each
gown introduces some novel toucn
worth hearing about and worth copy
ing.
For the hostess who will entertain on
Christmas day there is nothing more
charming than the alI-lace gown. 1t
should be simple in outline. but made
of some such material as Irish crochet.
The white Irish crochet gown over
white silk decorated with insets of gal
looms of the same lace only in a larger
pattern, makes a most fetching even
ing costume. The skirt should be cut
in the clinging style, and made with a
generous demi-train edged with frlll
of soft chiffon, the bodice made with a
blouse effect and elbow sleeves. A
gown of this sort is given smart
touch by wearing with 1T about the
throat. above the low stock collar.
narrow band of black velvet, which
fastens at the back with a chou OF
black maline. and another chou is
caught at the back of the waist. When
worn during the Christmas holidays
holly red maline is used in the place of
black. though the little neck band still
remains black This che touch of
bright red is charming with the rich all
white gown.
A number of new Christmas dinner
gowns are made of white or pale tinted
cloth They are elaborate indeed, with
their insets of lace and their exquisite
designs of hand-wrought embroidery.
fashion particularly in vogue right
nov is the gown carrying out the one
color idea For example, the pastel
blue panne cloth costumes will be
trimmed with antique lace dyed to eX-
actly match the cloth in tint, and the
embroidery will be in the same color
as well. The grape design is more in
evidence than ever. and punches or
grapes. whether of silk, velvet, or thick
embroirey, are used in innumerable
ways. There are black net gowns with
medallions of grapes, sometimes worked
in silver threads, aud then again in
gold. Gowns of cloth are often trimmed
with bands of Italian filet lace to
which are applied here and there
punches. of grapes. Grapes form an
epaulette to many a fashionable sleeve
and grace lace pendant is one of the
new little dress accessories which the
New York girl is wearing. The idea is
TO have a lace pendant suspended from
q. velvet neckband. which is worn with
one of the new collarleSs bodices. A
gown which emphasizes the vogue for
crane trimming and which will be
worn by a New York girl on Christmas
day. is made of cloth in a pale shade
of cream. It is trimmed with bands Of
cream filet lace. which are decorated
with punches of grapes in cream silk,
with their leaves and stems hand en-
broidered.
This gown owes much of its air of
distinction to simple little arrange
ment of chiffon. a chou of black chif-
fon fastens the cape collar together in
front. and from it two long chiffon
streamers dangle. which are finished
with tassel effect-a combination of
the chiffon and fine silk cords and tiny
silk drops. Though this chou, with its
dangling ends of chiffon. is just the
simplest thing in the world to make,
yet it gives the correct color accent to
the costume. With an all black gown
it is exceedingly effective in brilliant
red with sprays of holly used in place
of the tassels at the ends.
Another exquisite cloth gown which
Is the proper thing for the restaurant
dinner and for theatre wear is or white
broadcloth. Its special charm lies in
its trimming. The frock is adorned
with lace. but not one sort of lace alone
% dear. MOI That would be too COM
monplace. It is trimmed with bands
of filet lace and Irish crochet, and is
further adorned with medallions OF
Plauen lace. In addition to this lace
trimming, the skirt also is tucked. Elk
tremely narrow tucks are used in
groups, and they carry out the vertical
lines so much in vogue just now. The
sleeve of this gown is also unusually
fetching It is of the cloth tucked
and lace trimmed to the elbow. quite
inconspicuous so far.s but below the ell
bow it is billowy mass of accordiar
plated chiffon. The effect is lovely.
The sleeve with the lingerie under the
sleeve is also in fashionable favor right
now for the restaurant dinner gowr
andn for semi-dress occasions. 1t ap-
pears at its best worn with a sleeve of
say, liberty satin or peau de cygne OF
crepe de chine, the upper part Of the
sleeve fitting closely to the arm, but de-
veloping much fullness as it nears tht
elbow. The lingerie sieve is of accor'
dion plated chiffon, and falls in a full
loose puff from under the upper sleeve
At the wrist, it is confined with a deer
cuff of lace. The lace galloons in tn,
dainty flower effects are charming 70
this sort of cuff, and when they ar
used the upper part of the sleeve show
the same lace design, separate lace mo
tifs being applied to the sleeve fabrics
That Santa Claus will be more gen
erous than ever this year, and tina
more Christmas trees have been grow
ing in Santa Claus land than ever be
fore, is proved by the fact of the un
usual number of magnificent gown
which have been designed purposel.
this year to wear to Christmas ire
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