New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1903-11-22


There is an extensive use Of plain cloth on fancy
woods. This style Of trimming may be made to
suit a severe tailored morning gown, or elaborated
with the addition OF embroidery. A gown OF heavy
wool il mixed shades Of dull green is trimmed
with a cut-out pattern OF light green cloth ap-
plieued with fancy silks. This is made up in one
OF the close skirts that many French women are
ordering IL spite Of the fact that al advice Is in
contrary direction. There is deep yoke. orna-
rnented lightly with trimming. and from this
hangs the skirt broad side pleats. stitched down
almost to the bottom. The trimming is carried
about the bottom OF the skirt, running Up On tie
pIeats.
Another example Of the use Of plain cloth
trimming is on a skirt and Jacket suit Of mixed
dark red and black check Really. nothing IS more
fashionable than these mixed OF finely checked
cloths In this the trimming consists Of pattes
Of plain red cloth. embroidered lightly on the edges
with a little gold and black braid. The skirt is
made in three Earts slashed al intervals with
pate heading the slashings. On the jacket the
pattes are on the choker and down the front
An original long garment is OF thick gray zi0e-
line trimmed with gray cloth that is embroidered
sp most original fashion. This embroidery is done
sn heavy stitching Of yellow. green and royal pur-
pie and the design is Egyptian in effect, consist
ing OF Ions lines ending in small conventionalzed
leaves. There are pattes OF this down the front.
and the big cape sleeves have the inside seam
trimmed in the same way. There is a collar. with
long stole ends. OF the embroidered cloth. edged
with gray astrakhan. ana also a narrow. turnover
FUR collar.
PETIT Girls ECLIPsED-
The pretty gray squirrel skin that has been so
popular for two seasons is quite out OF favor
Noleshn is the Fashionable fur now. but the
chances are that IN z season two IL viii dis
appear the petit girls has done. Certain furs
like sable. seal otter ana zibeline are always
worn Ermine has always been considered one OF
the standard rurs Bot Il is being well initiated
Little neck oravats that tie the throat either in
q single knot or in four-in-hand fashion. most
rnodish This fur but OF the big shops here
IS placing them on the market al price that can
only provoke imitation. There are excellent imita-
tons too OF the fashionable taupe, although one
wonders why such humble and common animal
es the mole should be SOLD al a price that calls
for this Mole mUeh used In millinery. and love
" tooues are made OF IL
The smartness O. many winter suits rests on a
use OF black mohair braid. The closely woven
very shiny variety is attractive and often used
q foundation for other trimming. Another style
Is q vice gsloon Of loosely woven meshes. effective
over Colored lining. dark green zibeline. with
"a black surface. Is trimmed with q wide braid Of
this sort laid over bright green silk. Small rows
OF trimming mace Of three strands are used to
border the wide braid in a little pointed pattern
This is used in up-an6-dowu lines on the skirt
and in the way the bodice. which
''blouses' over the belt al about.
Some Of the ulcha.r bralds have colored OF gold
threads. black braid n which gold is used Is
charrningly made up with black cloth in the form
O. paletot reaching well below the hips. The
garment Is pieated IN front ant In the back. with
lines OF the braid between the pleats. and these
are met by crossway lines about the bottom Of
tie coat running IN and out of the braid and
ple5ts There is The same effect over the shoulders
II front and The middle of tie back the bottom
OF the garment Is cut INFO little points TO finish
the lines O. braid The chokcr is original II IS
high and straight ! the back and doscends IN
three little steps 70 nothing IN front II is trimmed
VITA Ateie hanging metal ornaments.
ORIGINAL FEATURES
This mode vas seen IT place noted for original
features. They show handsome calling gown Of
SAGE green cloth deliberately perforated and en-
oroldeTeo Ihe larger perforatons are dIled in with
q C1ny lace dyed TIE color Of the cloth This
house is finishing wen rather novel denai-toilet
mace OF coarse yellow silk ret. inset with strips
o. yellow embroidered bauste mounted over yellow
satin
Saun IS mach used this year for fo1nds tons
trimmings and bloUSes TafTeja seems to have al
most disappeared. and the silks preferred have a
SOFT or fancy surface Heavy ooroed and MORE
silks are especially well liked
To take the Place Of the pieated bolero which has
become so common there is now a pleate5 pelerine
The pleats start at point at the Nsistline IN .ba
back. and The pleats Jhat form the big sleeves
continue IL the same line. II Is this that gives nov