New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1903-08-02
IN "Q.'S" COUNTRY.
RambIes Amid the Scenes O "The
Aduentures of Harry ReUeI.
PoIperro, Cornwall, July II.


The stretch OF coast along which @ lays
the scene of his novel The Adventures of Harry
iRevel" though not frequented by tourists IS
very picturesque and has long been known 10
English and Continental painters. Looe, about
sixteen miles from Plymouth, is a growing little
seaside resort at the mouth of the lovely 1ooe
River and is gaining favor with health seekers
in winter well as in summer on account u
it, very mild and equable climate, frost being
irf~equent in winter and breezes unfalllng III
summer Its Oldest part, West Looe, for
there are two Looes, has one very quaint street
with some delightful old houses, a queer Old
church and an Oldtme tavern. The jolly
Sailor" A fleet of fishing boats is really the I'M
1,c~tant feature and saves the town from the
tiroso1nely conventional air of a resort pure ana
siI. Pile.
Iolperro the next harbOr going westward
from Looe, and one of the most picturesque
places in England, makes no pretenslons 10
being anything but fishing village. 1t has
,rirfa+ure harbor hardly wider than stones
throw cutting into craggy hills, which 1nclose II
as with a towering wall Several black anu
mysterious caves open seaward near the harpor
mouth and lead no one knows how far into the
bowels of the earth. The village streets are
winding and narrow-so narrow that horses and
carts are too big for them, and the heavy car
rving is done by donkeys Gathering along
fu fleet of smacks goes in and out as the tide
permits and with it's outgoing and incoming.
causes a ripple of excitement and expectancy
through the village for upon its catches depend
the breads of many mouths. Polperros gulls
are one of it's most characteristic features and,
when the great catches of fish are being cleaned,
hover like a snowstorm over the harbor All
about there are many elements of the romantic
and picturesque to appeal to the artistic SOUL
and hundred subjects confront the painter
on every hand. There is usually a sketch class
working about the village under teacher and
trying to transfer the strong local color to can
vas Quiller-Couch was born and spent part
of his boyhood in Polperro, where his grand
father old DR.. Couch, was the village physician
for long lifetime.
90" now lives at Fowey. six miles away,
where he has comfortable and roomy house
set in a pleasant garden directly the rocks
overlooking the harbor. He has given delight
full and amusingly satirical description Of
FoWey in mis- "Troytown," which introduces in
Caleb a thoroughly Cornish character and his
way of speaking the local vernacular The
story, it is said. is somewhat photographed
The town is bright, gay little place, with quite
a modern air, a harbOr often crowded with
yachts with flying flags. and large fleet OF
rowbOats waiting for fare" to ferry over the
river to PoIrnan or upstream at high tide. This
latter is a trip well worth the taking. for the
banks billy and broken with deep indentations,
are deusely wooded except where tiny village
struggles to the waters edge. At one of these
one may stop and ask for cup of tea at a cot
tage, which will be served with clothed cream
and Cornish cake tinted and Favored with SAT-
from and float back to FOwey with the tide in
the long English twilight.