The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1903-04-26
LINEN DRESSES
THAT CAN BRAVE
THE WASHTUB
BY HARRIET HAWLEY.

BY HARRIET HAWLEY.
With the idea of encouraging the
wearing of linen a linen dress ball was
held in Belfast Ireland, late last
month. No such incentive is needed
in this country. Linens capabilities
for elegance as well as durability were
recognized several seasons ago and
this summer frocks for every occasion
are fashioned in linen or mercerized
fabrics.
Although many of them are too
elaborate to be entrusted to any one
but a French cleaner. the simpler
varieties may be sent to the wash
tub. Nor will their ironing be a diff
cult task.
Since the heaviness of the fabric
precludes ruffies or ruchings, the gen.
eral effects are tight-fitting in the ex-
IRENE. The woman with a good fig
ure is in her element. Never has she
appeared more sweet and charming.
But her less fortunate sister need
not despair. BY skillful manipulation
of the yoke effects and flaring hounces
now in vogue, she may conceal some
of her deficiencies.
The waists of these linen suits have
considerable variety, though the gem
eral lines are similar. The yoke may
be long, or short. round, pointed, or
bizarre in shape, but it is almost uni
formly finished with a piping of
contrasting color. A white is piped
with black, or vice versa. A pale blue
or green has a piping of white and
black stripe. Plaid pippings are ex-
tremely fashionable. A heavy white
linen is piped in a plaid or COM
Red pipings and cordings will be
much worn. to match the red hats and
parasols. Slot seams are also inlaid
with color or with plaids
Blouse waists, whether with a yoke
or without, are diversified by pleated
or box-pleated fronts, slot seams. or
stitched pleats. Small buttons are al
most invariably used in connection
with the slot seams. Stitched straps
and bands are also used in tailor made
effects. The bands or tabs are gar
nished by groups of small buttons.
Inserted vests do not promise to he
widely popular and, therefore. will be
used by those who wish to escape the
commonplace. They may be white or
| of a contrasting color to match the
pipings The overlapping blouse, looks
| well with the simpler cording for an
edge, though heavy lace and inser-
lions will be used for this purpose in
the more elaborate gowns.
1t seems strange, but embroideres of
nainsook or lawn are seldom seen in
connection with the seasons linen
dresses. The lace and insertion used
is of the heaviest. This is necessary, if
the material is to be cut away beneath
them. A filmy lace would appear ride
ulous. Imitation torchon or Irish laces
are practicable in these cheaper
gowns
Though the ajority of the sleeves
are tucked iI clusters, they may fol-
low the general scheme of the blouse,
being pleated or box-pleated. with slot
seams or cordings. They are invaria-
bly, tight fitting to a point below the
elbow, and thence they widen gradu-
ally to a small puff at the hand. Moth
ing extreme is permitted in these lin
ems. so that the huge pouches at the
hand are entirely wanting. The cuffs
are simple, from two to four inches
in length and trimmed to match the
rest of the waist. few are irregular
in shape, running up on the outside to
the depth of six inches and in the in
SlQe 10 only CHTee. III THESE cases, Ine
puff is entirely lacking and the effect
extremely tight-ftting.
The salient feature in most of the
linen skirts Is the yoke effect. In
many cases 1t is produced by the ap-
plication of stitched bands or folds
either running horizontally or tapering
to a slight point in the front. More
often the yoke is an actuality and is
H. H.,
panel. This combines the appearance
of we'll rounded hips with slenderness.
The yoke and panel are edge1 with
oording in a contrasting shade. The
panel effect may be repeated at inter-
walls entirely around the skirt, but it
must be skilfully fashioned or the re-
suit after washing is deplorable. Be-
low the plain yoke the skirt generally
fall away in clusters of tucks. These
are continued to within six inches of
the hem, when the goods, released,
flows In a natural founce.
costume in white butchers linen
has the blouse tucked down for three
inches from the shoulder seams Civ
ing a yoke effect. The tucks are in
clusters, each group finished off by a
stitched strap placed horizontally.
There is a box seam down the front,
ornamented with small black buttons
in groups of threes. The same trim
ming is used on the yoke straps and
cuffs. The skirt has the yoke and
panel effect down the front. The
edges of the panel are ornamented
with groups of the buttons.
Another white linen frock has a
yoke which gives an irregular tab or
panel effect. Three of these rounded
tabs are on the front of the waist and
one extends down over each sleeve.
All are edged by a black and white
cording.
In the skirt the panel effect is Sc
cured by extending the yoke in panels
so narrow as to have the appearance
of tabs. These cover the seams to
within six inches of the hem, where
they end in point. The skirt be-
meath is box-pleated under each tab,
thus giving a flare at the bottom.
A third costume in blue linen has
triple row of blue and white striped
cording for trimming. The narrow
cape collar extending from the Shout
der seam is continued down the front
in a broad box-pleat, and is edged
with the triple cording. The skirt
yoke IL continued in a front panel.
edged by the triple cording- The skirt
has triple fiouncing, with so little flare
as almost to give the effect of folds.
These simpler gowns are none of
them collarless, as the high severe col
lar COMFORTS better with their gen.
IL l. L.