The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1903-02-07

Thus begins an old recipe for chowder.
dated 1884 And even in those days there
seemed to be a diversity of opinion
we'll as tastes For the verse goes on to
say, in reference to cooking the pork,
some say you must turn it. some say you
must not" But all agree that it must be
added to the chowder after all the other
ingredients designated are placed in layers
in the not.
Potatoes must be placed in the bottom.
and in order to eat slick must be sliced
quarter Of an inch thick. The crackers
(ship biscuit must be split open and given
soak" The writer assures US that if
we will add all Ingredients in regular ro-
tation. viii have dish fit for the
best of the nation
Chowders are generally classed among
soups but are in reality a sailors fish
stew Of very ancient origin
It has never ceased to be a very popular
dish with all who become acquainted with
its merits. In the hands of various cooks,
choWder 1t mas undergone many changes
and alleged Improvements and have
now many kinds Of chowder as we have
religions We associate clam choWder with
New England and coast cookery. and I'M
dOubtedly the bOatmen do prepare this
typical marine dish better than the lands
man. Necessity suggested the addition of
fresh fish to the sailors everlasting dish
of salt fat pork potatoes. onions shin
biscuit and water, which became very mo
notonous on their long sea voyages. They
required an occasional change in the flavor
of the dish as well as the condition, for
health's sake, of fresh animal food ard
fresh meats were, of course out of the
question during the greater part of their
voyages on the sea s highway Thus orig
mated chOWder, the name probably Sug-
gested to the sailor, if not borrowed, from
the Chinese choSV-chOW a mixture
ChoWders are tempting and appetizing
and when their use is not mistaken, they
are very economical They are made of
cheap materials. that are at the same
time very nutritious Their food value
is considerable, and they must be regarded
as stews when arranging menu; al
though 1t is quite proper to serve them
as first or separate course corresponding
to sOu2, when other Viands are few and
proportionately low in nutrftive value. But
they can in nOwise answer the purpose of
a dinner soup which IS intended merely as
an introductory to the meal and intended
to prepare the way for solid and more
slowly digested foods. Although the chow
der is considered a meat course IN itself,
a sollr must not be served with the same
meal, for obvious reasons
FRENCH FISHERMAN'S CHOWDER-
Put quarter Of cup of butter or good
clarified dripping in a stewpan and when
melted add three ounces of sifted flour
and stir until smooth and bubbling. then
cool and add quart Of stock or water,
cut the meat carefully from a founder or
other fish of firm flesh and put the bones
and trirnrnings in the soup with bay
leaf, two Cloves teaspoonful of essence
Of anchovv. or some well seasoned table
sauce, little cayenne, a teaspoonful Of
sugar and three teaspoOnfuls of salt; I'M
less you use salted soup stock Let IL
boil rapidly for ten minutes, skim If any
fat arises Cut the fish into neat pieces
and lay in a stewpan with a taDlespoonIul
of finely chopped parsley and hair as
much white potato. sliced thick, as you
have fish. Strain the stock over this and
add a pint of warm milk and little
cream if you have it on hand Let cook
slowly until the potatoes are Just tender,
hn+ iSeen Their shane oyster Iouor or
clam broth may be used insted of the
stock OF water In that case add the hot
milk a { the very last, when potatoes are
DONE and boil uD once. and serve.
CONGRESS CHOWDER.
A writer describes how Daniel Webster
introduced this fish chowder to the Wash
fnorfRnilnE BOSTON
rock cod. salt pork and Boston crackers
First he fried his scraps of pork in a large
kettle until all the fat was tried out. then
depositited successive layers of potato. fish
onion and crackers. with seasoning in be
tween until the kettle was fun. then added
two quarts of milk and gleefully set it
over the fire made on the bank of the
Potomac fishing grounds. The chOWder
was guaranteed success and was &C
cornpanied with s'Marshfield punch The
effect of the latter proved rather disas-
trous to some Of the party
NEW ENGLAND FISH CHOWDER.
This is similar to the congress chowder
but is more explicit Slice thin quarter
of pound of salt pork and fry in a large.
round-bottomed iron pot until light
brown. Then take it out Of the fat and
put aside for future use. While the pork is
irving 41eeI ard slice quarter of an inch
thick ten uedium-sized potatoes and two
large onions, which should be fried brown
with the pork and removed with it. Cut
up five pounds of fresh Goldfish or had
dock in inch thick slices after removing
the flesh carefully from the bones. and
skin Have ready softened by steaming n
pound Of sea biscuit or pilot crackers.
split these in half. After pork and onions
are taken up. put layer Of the fsh into
the fat or dripping in the pot: then a layer
of potatoes followed by ta~er Of sliced
onion. season each layer Of fish with salt
and pepper Use half the fish, potato and
four raw onions in this way: then put in
half of the pork and nail or the era ckerS.
Add remainder Of fsh, potatoes and onions
in layers with seasonlngs Of salt and
pepper. and on top tha Ta@s of the crackers