The Washington times., 1903-03-29

shoulders TO show full undersIeeve OF
the lace Some have a deep cape of
lace. a three-skirt cape OF the cloth.
with fall OF lace under the last cape,
but one great objection 10 these capes
is that for warm weather they are too
heavy to be comfortable. and conse-
Quently the other style. with the long
sleeve starting from within a few inches
Of the collar. are more suitable for this
time OF year. Long lines. too. are given
by this last style, and long lines are OF
course, requisite to the happiness OF
every smart woman. who. il truth be
told, too often sacrifices a becoming
fashion in order to attain them
Yokcs are one of the new fashions
although last year they were used IN
many OF the spring gowns. Now tucked
or stitched or shirred yokes are seen
on both thin and thick materials and
really serve as sort OF trimming.
A curious feature OF the new gowns is
that they all seem TO be too large The
skirts. supposedly tight fitting aro,,r,1
me hips' and certainly not made 20 dis
stiSe the hgure, are so full below Tie
hips as TO be heavy aud look TOO Iarr.
'front.', whether made tight fitting in tho
back or in the short jacket effect thai
rs loose back and front Sleeves arr.
growing absurdIy large, so that alto
gether It would seem at first glance as
though most unnecessary amount of
material were employed. The skirts
with yokes, and, in fact all skirts that
are made with lot OF materials. have
TWO most disagreeable tendencies which
must needs be corrected. They hang
forward at the sides. or are made SO
tight that when sitting down there IRE
always wrinkles across the front breadth
or the skirt goes up in front, displaying,
the feet in a most ugly fashion. In ft
ting all skirts great care must accord
inRiy be taken to lift the skirt at the
sides and toward the back. This. for
two reasons, one 70 give more flare. FOR
II skirt Is cut in too - and down
straight lines there is no flare and the
fullness at the back. instead OF standing
out from the figure giving a graceful
swing, simply sinks" in and Is most
unbecoming even TO a slender woman.
for II makes the back look quite square
but the raising Of the skirt at the sides
and center OF the back-of course there
must be extra length allowed for-wiIl
shorten the gown considera bly,. Both
long and short skirts require this sort
OF treatment If A becoming effect is de-
sired. AS to the waists, apparently so
large. they are all most carefully fitted
and as tight as Is comfortable with bone
lining, with. be it remembered sufficient
width across the bust and Just below
IL 10 avoid that ugly tight appearance
waist too small across the front is
sure 10 have. The waist itself is made
with the lining at the side seams only.
but In spite OF being loose and appar-
emily shapeless requires as much II not
more fitting th0n when the fashions call
for severely plain waists with many
seams. The waist line must always lie
defined and the side line also. throwing
the fuIlness all in front. belt. wide
a tho back. keeps ia all extra fullness
there. or if the gown be on the princess
order the material at the back is well
pulled down and fastened under the very
narrow pleated belt. which IS all that
is allowed 20 break the long line.