New-York tribune., 1903-01-18

the shoulders hanging from an elaborate yoke OF
Irish lace. embroidered in black and gold As all
the stitching the white cloth is done in black.
the costume suggests black accessories in the
way Of hat and muff.
Suits of black velvet are often trimmed this
season with bands of black silk braid and this
represents another fashion which will undoubtedly
be carried over into the spring A pretty change
in this way of trimming is to connect the lines OF
braid by lines OF open work passementerie
MODISH BLACK AND WHITE COMBINATIONS
Il seems difficult TO find much that Is novel in
the nnodish combination OF black and white, but
here are TWO high-neclzed evening gowns that pre-
sent some novel features. The first is white net
very heavy and rather coarse in texture. hung over
white silk. The net is trimmed with medallons Of
white cIUny lace and small appliQued spots OF
black velvet. The black spots only high
the knees. while the lace tncrUsta tons almost
cover the skirt The bottom OF the skirt shows
several rows Of narrow black velvet The blouse
and sleeves are made Of the net and lace. the
trimming Of black vlvet spots and lines being
reserved for the cuffs and deep bertha
The second gown is Of black gauze made over a
princess foundation of white silk and trimmed with
broad panels Of white Cluny lace. On the lace are
mounted large chestnut leaves and bUrrs OF black
Jet The neck is cut out in that very trying but
pretty fashion at the base OF the throat and finished
with deep lace collar that falls the tops Of
the sleeves. The full elbow sleeves beneath are
made Of t1IIe rufies covered with ropes of Jets
The collar closes in front with jet ornament made
OF TWO jet chestnut leaves holding cluster Of jet
ropes.
Jets and pafIlettes are beginning to be extrava-
rantIy used The fridescent effects which prevailed
when this fashion was last in favor are less seen
than the softer effects A white mousseine de
soie. for example is embroidered in cabochons and
large paiIettes in soft opalescent coors There are
too beautiful soft gray and white embroiderfes
with mother OF pearl tints in them on thin black
Eh+ p becsTna SO vgarized several Years ago that is
avoided now. On the jet and spangIed trimmed
gowns there is excellent opportunity for the use
OF the deep. handsome fringes that have appeared
this season
sHAw11s AND SMART COATS.
One really wonders if shawIs are not to be worn
again There IS certainly an excellent chance for
the return OF such a fashion. Entering fashona-
bic restaurant the other night a tall, slender
woman who wore superbly garment that was i'm
uaediatey the attraction for all feminine eyes 1t
was deep shawl cut TO ut without clumsy folds
about the shoulders. but reaching in point behind
10 half cover the trailing skirts, and made Of the
fashionable gray squirrel skin and trimmed with a
fringe. perhaps foot deep Of gray silk. mounted
over hounce OF some gray. thin stuff That same
evening I peerine almost as deep as a shawl
made entirely OF black silk net and deep jet fringe
The fringe was used about the neck Of the garment
as well as along the edge
Paquin has just made Two long cloth garments for
the actress Jeanne Giane[ W. 10 = = p % zen ~ a
ited with launching a neg 52s[I0n mon N 1f FaT aa Ie Is
under the arms long enough 70 cover a walking
fitted circular collar finished with narrow, scant
shaued fiOUnCe and coat collar and small reVerS
- v-sz- velvet turn over onto this and fasten
there with gold buttons. There is fitted undervest
buttoning the throat Of red cloth This IS edged
white and black cloth and buttoned with small goo
E77rr0T1e The big sleeves have part OF their ful-
4ess gathered into cluster OF small pleats over the
-to7,i5e-e and below the elbows they shirred
on the inside Of the arm from the elbow TO meet the
small gray velvet cu1s.
The second coat IS more conventional IN cur,
loose and long. bUt closing II frOnt-such a gar
-nent as Is useful automobile. 1t is Of light
Lrovyn cloth. trimmed with stitched bands The
cape collar is OF the pelerIne or shaWl shape deep
behind and narrowing 10 nothing at the throat IN
front where IL is fastened with brown passe-
~ the same house they are finishing a neat little
,-erbri~g suit for the season Cannes It is of
e-syish shade Of blue serge, trimmed with narrow
S-frcF1ed bands OF the same. arranged in some
what intricate iuterlaced pattern The skirt Is cut
in very broad box pleats, ten OF them making the
sIyirr These are headed by the pattern Just re-
Fe--e5 ro and have the appearance of hanging from
woke close auo tight Is the upper part or
- sI-f-f However. am informed that the upper
. n the skirt IS not yoke. but careful ad-
iustrpent Of the cloth The fuH oIouse talIs over a
yyeoi1-e5 bet OF black satin, and is trimmed with
t+j--ts5 hands and small black satin buttons. The
eIeeZ,es are trimmed in the same way The neck is
e1isbed bv q turnover linen collar and cravat OF
Da{A ~ Nv little skirts are growing much larger
- - -be majority Of skirts close about
no" 80 @ INT The tight effect extending almost
the nlls. Dut +17--e Of The nasr we see so many
etrirrs-pIeated in tns Sunburst 1aShlon or
a-5-I,1-- sea weed designs in broad mar
N n LnS 80 -ests No matter what the material or
---.1e ~ go,En there always some kind OF peat-
styie O 81 ~ The shirred skirts considered
- .I-- T,odish bet they much less generally
n4o-7 man the pleated ones They are, however
D,-Isr no1Ii ~ ir the thin materials.
popular =. e ebnv-jng a boufant effect over the
hfns which have appeared Oh ana on an winter; winter;
cannot be said to be popular. ne I'd we 20 [a
Sle worn by certain fashionable women put tley