davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1903-08-29

Fashion, after ALL moves in a slowly I'M
dulating curve. There are no violent up
heayals, no sudden transitions, no freak
ish adoptfons or adaptations. Quite the
contrary. Fashion is logical, delightfully."-
logical, and the girl who studies the his
tory OF fashion-and her name is legion
Is always prepared a little in, advance for
the next turn of fashions wheel. The
new fashions for autumn may now be said
to be settled and to have arrived, and the
influence of the American girl is plainly
distinguished BILE in their lines and outlines
The :skirted coat, and the long three-quar-
ter coat, with which we have been ia
miliar since the late spring, as well as the
corset coat which caught on so rapturous-
~, and these were of distinctly American
origin. When the buyers and milliners
and dressmakers went toParis in the early
summer they We're considerably surprised
to- find that the makers of the modes
Partisan had not taken these garments at
all into account when deciding upon the
new styles. Quite the contrary. French
women, and English women who pride
themselves on being dressed by French
artists, We're all wearing either the short
Elton or the loose, 'baggy garments fash
Toned upon the kimono or dressing sacque
order. The long-fitted coat was fash
ion Of which they took no cognizance
whatever; 1t did not enter into their
scheme Of dressing at all. However, the
American buyer, was not going to relin-
'quish a style for which, there was a sure
acceptance on this SIDE Of the water, and
the claims of this coat were pressed with
such vigor that Paris has now adopted it
with the reckless enthusiasm which char
acterizes all her doings sartorial.
Velvets in their many grades and under
many names are. high up the roll of
fashionable fabrics. The new weaves in
these are so soft and sheer that the old
time objection to their weight can nc
longer be put forth. Many and various
are the qualifying adjectives, all intended
to express the airy nature Of the velvet
Velours, mousseline, chiffon, zephyr, ETC.,
are some of the titles, and really the fab
rio i1Sfifies their annIica tion
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1903-08-29
AUTUMN FASHIONS
Goldenrod and Biscuit Tones VIII Prove
Popular Combined WITH

AS coming fashions cast their reflections
before them, 1T can be taken for granted that
suit skirt and coat alike, and that the coiors
will be in the shades of yellow. And here
are some Of the things for which one may
look: III
dull leather, with e gold harness buckle for
fastening.
Coat facings that are twice as brilliant as
the coat itself and that show great many
colorS embroidered, stamped, DTocaueo or
Skirts that are gathered, or box plated,
tucked or accordion plated.
svelte styles.
Sleeves that bell in strange ways around
the hand, bullying in unexpected places, but
always below the elbow.
Buttons as large as silver dollars and look
ing about like dollars with jewels set in.
Big fiat jeweled studs, as large as buttons,
Snowy chatelaines of gold and Of silver
gilt, with everything under the sun hung upon
them.
| Shoes that match the gown.
The autumn girl will run to the golden rod
colors, chiefly because they are becoming to
her, and also because they are fashionable.
In the golden rod colors are all the golden
rod tones from deep red that is almost
| sumach to a bright yellow that Is almost
straw color.
Other colors that will be seen are the burnt
breads which are almost reddish and the
burnt biscuit tones which are almost brown
and beside these, there is tan and ecru and
all those pretty leather shades which are so
| refined, whether in silk or cloth or velvet or
| yet In wash goods.
The girl Of fall realizes that with her
| wheat colors and her golden rods, she1n ust
wear bit of something warming and that is
why she Is selecting coral red and tomato
red to set them off and why she 'is going into
gold jewelry and picking out bits of poppy
color and blood: red, both in tewelry and ii.
embroidery.
Blue, while a summer color. is also good
I in the fall; and onsrnany a gown there is a
suggestion OF blue trimming, If it be only
| in the underlay of a lace flounce or in the
| folds of the belt or in few stitches Of the
lace and embroidery scheme.
| It is possible to go into a great many
colors nowadays without looking overdressed.
embroideries will go out Of vogue and no
hint that tho Persian stuffs and the st,ffs
from Japan and from Armenia will lose their
J prestige.
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1903-08-29

phanous in their texture. voiles and
eolinnes appear under new names, such
as ziffre, lunel, etc, but they are sim
ply our old friends under different title.
OF course the skirt OF drop skirt to be
worn beneath all this fluffy mass of ma
terial must be more carefully fitted than
ever. Fashion continues to say, "Hips
In and in order to balance the slender
effect at the hips and waistline a marked
flare is declared at the foot. Manufac-
turers nowadays keep we'll abreast of the
fashions, and there has just been put on
the market a delightful novelty in the
shape of a linen and haircloth hounce,
woven in just the correct curve, and all
one has to do is to cut, off the necessary
lengths, apply it on the drop skirt or
petticoat and the requisite fashionable
flare is attained. This new idea has been
named the "Paquin,'' after its most en-
thusiastic lindorser, and the new model
costumes which he has sent to America
are good examples of it's grace and util-
ity. " RI"
Since the corset is really and truly the
foundation Of the costume, and the effect
of the latter depends almost entirely upon
the AT and contour Of the former. 1t would
be as well to take a look at what Paris
is sending over for us to wear with the
new designs The first thing that at
tracts our attention is that the long,
slender hip is still the accepted model.
This design gives such graceful effect
to even a clumsy figure that we cannot
help but hope that it will remain with
us indefinitely. From the waistline up,
however, we see quite a change. The
bust is raised considerably, and this is Of
course in accord with the dictum that
tightly fitted waists are to be the correct
thing. The tightly-htted waist, with its
sharply curved darts, would be anything
but thing Of beauty when fitted over
the present low-bust corset, so to meet
the new vogue the lines Of the corset had
to be changed materially. For slender
figures the low-bust corset was ideal; but
for those measuring SO and Overland it
was most enthusiastically adopted by our
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1903-08-29

Comparatively few restaurant habitues
have much idea of how things are done in
the kitchens. That is a realm even more mys-
FERROUS to them than behind the scenes" Is
TO the theater-goer.
Yet the kitchen Of restaurant is intensely
interesting. At meal time the hurry and
hustle, tile quickly fleeing figures OF busy
he must needs wait until the hungry mob has
feen satisfied before starting on satls-
factory tour.
1t is quite necessary for the restauranteur
to have each little detail Of the kitchen work
planned before the rush comes. Each girl
knows exactly what Is expected OF her ana
the vegetables to the walters, arrange the
salads or wash dishes, some cook and carve
the meats and sauces. OF course, the kitchen
work is not all that must be carefully
planned. The task of buying the supplies Is
of the highest importance.
One of the frst-class rest aurants in Min
neapolis belongs to combination which has
partially solved the buying problem. A sta
ton has been established near the town mar
kets where all orders from the restaurants
in the system are sent, whether for meat,
vegetables or canned stuff. wagon goes to
market each morning and returns with sup
plies for all the establishments. Large
quantities of meat are purchased at one
time sometimes when 1t is only partly cured.
This is kept in large dry ice box stocked
with about forty tons OF ice and two tons are
added each week to keep 1t full. A butcher
is employed who cuts the meat as ordered.
In the basement of this supply house there
is laundry The restaurateur thus has a
private laundry where he can be sure that no
tbleecher harmful to his linen Is in the water.
After the linen Is sorted the pieces are put in
Ia large "scrubber." This consists Of per-
forated wooden cylinder, larger than hogs
holding the suds. The inner barrel holding
the linen is revolved three times IN one di-
rection, three times in the other until the
dirt is all washed out The linen is then put
in the "wringer," which Is a copper vessel
revolving on an axes inside another. When
power is applied the inner vessel revolves
1000 revolutions minute and singing as 1t
whirls. Owing to the rapidity of Its motion
the water is thrown out centrifugally thru
the small holes in the smaller vessel into the
larger and when the pieces are taken out
it would be tedious as well as injurious to
the pieces to attempt to disentangle them,
the bunch is thrown into the shaker" which
is similar to the "scrubber," except that it
does not contain water. After it is turned
about a few times the pieces are readily sepa-
rated. They are then ready to be put thru
the hot rollers which smooth out all the
creases. There is also a drying room where
starched pieces can be dried In about ten
minutes.
Most of the restaurants buy their bread, but
make their own pastry: From 300 to 400
!Ioaves of bread are used daily In one OF the
big restaurants. The large roasts are cooked
before the meal and put into heaters to keep
them hot. Enough vegetables are cooked for
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1903-08-29
HILDA LARSON GOES TO EUROPE
v,-HER ExPER,EncEs IN LONDON.

Seems If it doesn't make any diff renee
how rich or how poor you are. nor how
young or old. nor where you came from
got eyes for It's scmethin' like out street
in South Minneapolis, an, when I'm ridin'
aroun' on top of omnibuses tryin, to keep
Billie from falln' over the railin', why, I
jes' can't nelp but think of Mrs Schultz.
Miss Larson, she's said to me moren once,
says she, 1t don't make any difference what
time of day look out Of the front window,
anythin' but Lindquist,s black cat.' An that
is les the way it is In London. The only
way to help from seem things is to shut
snythin ID Be e more dangerous gra wui for
mad another pair Of eyes in the back of my
head to see what the cabs an omnibuses be-
a we're get shs street
this mornin' It she'd been kept on one of
those islan's in the middle Of the street for
fifteen minutes by her watch fore she could
London any longer. So III,
Il came here to see somethin' side a
string Of buses an cabs says she an /
could tell by. the SCUM of her; voice It she
An she Went. she did, this very afternoon,
but, seems If, you Id never know the
diff renee zzs235s. .s9s 4. I. 8 g%4E
Mrs. Gray isn't tho kin Of woman t over
work herself or anybody else, an she hasn't
! planned to see ev'rythin' in London xl In
twentyefour hours. She makes her range
H.
If she has to change EN-, why, 1. dunno but
what she's more pleased n dis pointed
know t when Mr.. Norman tol' her there
wasn't any use gofn' to Windsor cause she
couldn't get in, for fear the; king might take
1t into his head to rim out for spell, she
says, says She: II, glad Of it,, says she.
| there's some things t seems If body ought
to see. II they don't care specially for en-
an when circumstances make it impossible
1T gives en- an excuse for not goin',' says
she. I'D rather go to the q logical garden n
| Windsor for cage of monkeys is more en-
livenin n state DRAWN room.
Mrs. Gray isn't shirk, but she doesn't
sees mos things. She isn't like Mr.. Norman
! in tcat. He came yesterday to say good by
| to Mrs. Gray for he's goin' to sail for home
tomorrow, after bein in London two weeks
Mrs Gray was talkin' to him bout what
he'd seen an sho asted him how he liked
| Yves Minister abbey. q
haven't geen anythin' but the out
| side, says he. was smokin' the day
went by there an couldn't take NV cigar in
50 stayed out, for I'd 1es lighted It an
| It was the hes one I've had since Ief3 home
The abhy'll be here when / come again SAYS
he, but 1T was then or never til the cigar
But I've eaten in ev'ry RESTRAINT mentioned
there isn't more n ten music halls I'vt
linissed $50 I've seen somethin' - says he
las satisfied Is II he'd been takin's ali hi,
lmeals at Buckingham palace where the kin,
| lives.
tHe's mos as badsgs Mr.. Brown. He cam,
over on the ship we did an when he got OF
/ shore 1T came over him all Of a suddint how
far from home he was an he JUS went III
| the gang plank OF a. ship alongside that wa
| gOin' to New York mex day an all he say
of Europe was the landin stage at Liverpool
i You cant go trayelin' even to ST. Paul
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1903-08-29

Reception gowns, dinner gowns, ball
gowns are all shown In many colored vel
vets, while for wraps and coats the heav-
Ter grades are eminently suitable OF
course, these will not be cheap garments,
for velvet demands an amount of care in
the handling that precludes cheap labor,
added to which, If the cut and fit and fin
ish are not In every way absolutely above
reproach, the result is more deplorable
than if executed in any other fabric.
All the mohair and Sicilienne weaves
are in high favor, and the new weaves are
really beautiful in their sheen and ulster.
The entire color card Is represented in
these, besides which checks and plaids of
various sizes are also to be had. A Wool
tex tailored costume was recently seen in
a coarse Sicilienne Of the new sapphire
shade. The coat was long and absolutely
tight fitting, the darts reaching further up
than usual The skirt was in instep
length. with binding at the edge, side
plated from belt to hem, the plaits widen
ing considerably at the bottom and held
in. place by several rows of tape on the
inside. g
Waists are to be more on the fitted or
der than heretofore, the lining carefully
featherboned to the figure, and the little
blouse front which every sort and size and
shape Of figure feminine found so becom-
ing is at last to be banished, after a long
and successful reign. It will disappear
but slowly, however, for there is not yet
anything in sight which can adequately
take its place. Indeed, manufacturers re-
port a steady demand for the long -skirted
blouse coat, and this, too, from the big
cities where fashions every little whirn is
studied and followed, and when any one
feature Is thought to be passe there it is
declared to be dead indeed,
Skirts, too are to be longer and
straighter and fuller, and masses of sheer
material are used In straight breadths to
fall in soft folds to the feet. Naturally
this mode will call for very light weight
goods, and the new weaves intended to be
made 1lp after this Style are almost dia-
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1903-08-29

there isn't lazer nor better Job goin', not
even exceptin that OF duke. I've only seen
che duke, but dunno as he looked as Eros-
ferrous as any of the guides-yergers, Mrs.
Gray calls 'en when she fms 'em in a church.
''She gave a p'licenan stxpence one after
noon in the park so't he'd tell her II there
were any int'restin' people there.
You mean gentlemen an ladies', says
he a-puttin' the money In his pocket. He
top me afterwards t he made mos as much
money pointin' out the nobility to 'Mericans
as he did p'iicin'. You don't have any OF
'em over there says he, an when he got thru
Maybe they were lords an ladies t he: pointed
out, jes' as he says: If they weren't dunno
who they were, an diGn't say anythin' to
Mrs Gray. She b'lieved him an as long as
she didn't know t he had two professions
stead of one she Id keep on b'lievin' Mos
felix's have got to think somethin' an If they
haven't got the right they'll take the wrong
an be jes as comfortable go loEg as they
don't know. knowledge can make body
more uneasy sometimes n ignorance, seems
Q +. I
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1903-08-29

The weight of a growing child is the most
important index Of its general health The
standard of weight for growing children, that
usually given by authorities IN the meter, Is
as many pounds as It is inches high. AS a
rule thin will not be much over or under
forty pounds Children who come Of large
parents should weigh something more than
that. The rate Of increase should be about
two pounds for every inch of growth, with a
tendency for the weight to exceed this stand
ard proportionately rather than to fall below
1t. When child is rather heavier in pro-
portion to its height than this standard it is
a sign of good health. II the child is grow
much beow 1t without being made to rest
more than has bee.. the custom before A
deficiency of weight in proportion to height
Is always an unfavorable sign. Any inter-
rupton in the progress Of increase Of weight,
especially during the continuance of growth,
must be a danger signal that should not be
neglected by those interested in the patient.
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1903-08-29

gale. The name Emma is taltsnan ir
the world Of opera, for so many of the greai
singers have borne it-Calve, Eames
Thurlby, Nevada. Her intimate friends
however, do not know Miss Ross as
Emma, for the name given her by ar
Irish nurse has always chung to her. II
Is Poodle, contracted from ''podgean," ar
Irish word meaning baby.
Miss Ross is at present in Davenport
Iowa. recovering from attack Of ner-
vous prostration, so that in the fall she
may return to Italy, where she has spent
many years studying. Miss Ross begar-
her European studies under the Souves.
tres, celebrated teachers of the Italian
method in Dresden. They make spe.
cialty of colorat ura work, and 1t was un.
der them Miss Ross perfected her trilis
and runs, which have been highly compli.
mented by such men as Grau and Rubins
She finished then with Nine. Mariana Bal.
DIM and under her instruction added 81
number Of operas to her repertory. Man'i
ayers have made comparisons between he'll
voice and Sembrich's which were very
fattering to the young singer.
Miss Ross has now sixteen operas tr|
repertory which she knows perfectly Id
Italian, German and French. Her favor
lite role is Yioletta in 'Traviata," but she|
is fond of Marguerite and Lucia. She|
sings also in la File de Regiment" and
La Somnambula." Miss Ross Is more for
tunate than many singers in that 1t Is
possible for her to act the role as well as|
sing it. Beauty and grace are much
In her favor
Much good advice has been showered|
upon Miss Ross, but the best managers
agree that she must gain a foreign repu
tation before she comes to America. sThid
| is the difficulty that so many American
singers are having, for foreign reputa1
ton seems to be prerequisite for hear
| ing in America. Miss Ross will return
to Europe in September and later in the
season win sing Italian opera In the Ger
man court at Berlin. This is quite an un1
usual honor which has been accorded her,
| for she does not use the German method
nor will she sing in German. Such a sing
| er is known at court as a guest singer.
Miss Ross was to have made west
| ern tour of the states this year, but
placed confidence in the wrong man and
after paying her manager several thou
sand dollars found herself without him
He broke his contract and she has no way
to recover her loss. This was great dis
appointment, for, alt1o she does not enjoy
singing in concert as much as In opera
she had expected much pleasure In sing
| ing to her own people. 1t is probable that
| she will return before many years In 6
grand opera company II the promises OF
her work are fulfilled.
Personally Miss Ross is silent and very
retiring which is apt to tell against heI
success, altho her friends may be glad te
find that the compliments she has received
in Europe have in no way affected her
She is a thoro artist and one whose in
terest in her work Is deep and earnest.
1 5ist
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1903-08-29

adipose sisters In conjunction with tn
loose French cache corset-the result wa
deplorable. Now, however. with tn
higherbust corset, with it's long, slende
hip, all sorts and shapes and sizes o
figures can find a suitable model, ca
keep up with the procession in fashion
ranks, and know each is looking her besI
while SO doing.
The style In hats being largely de
pendent upon the modes Of couture, man.
Of those for the coming season are adaptea
to wear with low coil at the neck, witt
which is worn one of the many new hair
nets. These have found very genera
acceptance abroad, and the really smar
woman has worn them on this side o.
the Atlantic all summer.
The Charlotte Corday is one of the new
shapes. Pictures of that Inflated heroin,
have made us familiar with the style o
headgear, but this season the hat i
trimmed with more feathers than it wa
In the days when its sponsor wore it
All the turbans continue good and the.
will be much used, since they are vel
adapted to show off the shaded effect
in silks and velvets, which are, perhaps
the leading feature Of this falls novelties
And this shaded effect Is not confined t.
hat materials; it has reached out and EN-
braced almost every article of feminine
wear. The new dinner corsages are
fashioned of shaded chiffons, the lighter
tint being displayed at the shoulder ane
the color deepening until at the waist thu
deepest tone is used These are SO arts.
tically dyed that the transition from thu
one shade to the other Is scarcely appre
cable; one tone blends so well into the
next that there is no dividing line what.
ever apparent. With these dinner waist.
come hats-1arge hats-with plumes dyet
exactly to match the color scheme OF thu
waist The new lavenders and mauve:
and violets make an exquisite colol
scheme for such development, and the
soft shades of fawn deepening into wood
brown are pretty when livened UP with {
touch of green.
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1903-08-29

4 All mills in Japan run day and night. The
change Of hands must be made at noon and
midnight. In one mill at Osaka 5000 work
ers are under fifteen years of age and operate
sons operate that number. In the Lowell
mill of 1000 looms and $4,000 spindles there
are 700 male and $500 female operatives. In
this work. The wages, however, In Japan
are is cents per day for q man and 9h cents
for woman 81
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1903-08-29
AN AMERICAN NIGHTINGALE
Miss Poodle Ross's Progress In He
Musical Career In Italy and
Germany.

Miss Emma Ross, known In opera as
Emma RossingoL was a recent guest of
her sister, Mrs. J. D. Dushane, In Merriam
Park and in Minneapolis, and she has
many friends here who are much inter
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1903-08-29

ested in her career. Rossingol is an Ital-
ian word meaning nightingale. and it was
given to her by a critic at the time OF her
debut two years ago, and she is now
known thru Italy as the American nightin-
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1903-08-29

A ton Of sugar beets yields 21o pounds q
refined sugar, ~