The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1903-02-15

Tho mourning customs of different
countries vary distinctly. each following
It's own particular code, although Ameri-
can usage is largely influenced by that
Of England and Frunce. In recent
years. common sense has greatly revised
the regulations for the attire Of mourn
ers. in consequence OF which we see
less and less OF the heavy, unhealthy
development of face and figure that
was once considered tho only respectful
sign Of grief. Formerly widow was
expected to wear for one year d gown
almost covered with crepc-nnd tho old
style crepe was very much welghtlcr
laorlo tnan crepe Is now-and for nine
months longer dress only q little less
elaborate. Now, tho crepe Is often
disgarded altogether after six months
It was also decrced that widow could
not attend social functions OF any char
acter until ono year at least had passed,
but tho present rules demand only three
months OF absolute secuslon. Very
sensibly, too the old.fasihoned habit
Of wearing long crepe md nuns Yelling
wells In deepest mourning has been to
large extent given up, the long wells
being confined almost solely ut present
time to widows mourning The touue
OF to-day. made OF crepe or Of dun
mourning silk, and worn with either q
deep face veil or O narrow draped veil,
reaching to the waist-line, Is certainly
O vast Improvement on tho cumbersome
and really unhealthy wells which were
formerly worn
THE MOURNING FABRICS.
The new styles and fabrics for MOURN
Ing wear constantly appearing, allow
much greater opportunities for the ex-
ercise OF choice and Individual taste
among the materials associated with
grief The method OF making is almost
severely plain and simple, but tho ma
terials themselves arc palpably In such
good taste that the gown at once de-
riyes from them an air Of elegance. No
| trimmings arc used on gowns or hats
that have tho least look Of lustre about
them. Everything must be as dull as
possible, or 1t will not look like mourn
Ing; for black and mourning are essen
TALLY different.
THE USE OF CREPE.
Crepe is curious material In so far
that while 1t is very good for trimming
In itself. 1t is beautiful enough to show
to advnntag when there Is large
amount Of 1t used. Entire gowns Of
crepe are exceedingly handsome and rich
in appearance. A crepe house gown is
an exquisite garment, for long. un-
broken lines can be employed must be-
comingly In Its construction. these
bringing out the richness Of the fabric.
Mourning cloths and fabrics OF all kinds
look much better when trimmed with
crepe. Dull mourning silks are also
| effectively trimmed with crepe.
FASHIONABLE MOURNING FABRICS.
For the spring there are many light
weights OF mourning cloths for street
costumes. Such fabrics as Henrietta.
crepe cloth, Melrose. nuns yelling, al
batross and voiles are among the fa-
brlcs for fashioning the hnbiliments OF
| grief. These come In various grades
as to quality, and are priced accordingly.
Some are OF wool and OF s!lk-and-wool
also. The voiles will be much worn
| during the coming season and they are
In numerous varieties, ranging from an
exceedingly fine. sheer weay to those
with a coarse. open mesh. Among tho
latter Is the fashionable variety known
as London twine.''
From the lovely and very fashionable
fabric, crepe de Chine Of lustrelcss finish
which lends itself so readily to the
graceful. clinglng modes OF the moment,
are developed appropriate and very beau
tiful mourning gowns Mourning silk
gowns are very effective always, the dull
7lstre and rich quality making them
in themselves handsome. Tho dull
finished tafreta, penu do cygne, peau do
sole. peau do crepe and Iouisne will
all be used for fashioning gowns of the
dressy order for spring and summer
wear. Then. there Is a waterproof
moussellne for tho gown Of light weight
and the India silks are always favorites.
Chiffon and mousseline de sole, while
used by people not wearing mourning,
are considered to be among the MOURN
ing fabrics. Chiffon Is used as n trim
ming in shrrIngs. ruchlngs and plent-
ings, or In folds. sashes and bows En-
tire gowns are made Of chiffon and
separate chiffon waists are In demand