Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-01-16
FROM ACROSS THE SEA
SOME HINTS ON MEMS DRESS
FROM LONDON.
Goats Show a Tendency Toward In
creased Length-Style of Cravats
Determined by Dress.
london Corr. the Haberdasher.

H.ondon Corr the Haberdasher.
Both overcoats and undereoats show a
tendency this winter to run to Increased
length. A frock coat is now cut so that
the skirts just cover the knee; that Is. two
inches lower than these skirts were made
during the summer. A morning coat is
not cut quite so long. The tails reach only
to the bend Of the knee, and are cut away
trifie more than has latterly been the
rule The tails of evening dress coats are
just a shade shorter than this. Otherwise
there Is no alteration in the prevalent
cut. London tailors still make the skirts
Of . frock coat rather fun. and they are
cut so as to spread out a little below the
waist seam. which is made snug and rath-
er high, the latter characteristic exag-
gerating still further the appearance of
length. But there Is one novelty-in re-
cent experience-that must mention 1t is
not yet here, but 1t will have put in an
appearance by the time these lines are in
print, and it Is likely that 1t may go far.
This is the blue frock coat. The fash
ionable public seems to be wearying of its
favorite gray, and at the present time
more black frock and morning coats are
seen than gray ones; but as the tendency
OF the hour is all in favor of an increased
employment OF colored materials. dark
blue. slightly warmer than navy, Is the hue
that Is being got ready in rich. smooth
new coat will be fairly close at the waist
as the present one is. and will be cut with
less fullness in the skirt. Indeed, black
coats are generally even now cut to hang
straixhter than the lighter gray ones and
this marks the tendency of the mode in
this respect. Unlike the blue frock coat
Of the eighties. the new one will, l think.
not be braided at the edges. and the but
tons will either be cloth ones matching
the coat itself (not silk else will be
actually covered with the same material.
all
be black again. but I think the tendency
Is now reverting to frock coats altogether.
Where a frock coat Is not favored. jacket
suits will be more worn, even in town.
than they have latteriy been, and will
come into use for some quite semi-formai
occasions.
The existing rule as to cravats shows no
eisn OF desuetude. You must cut your
neckcloth according to your coat. That is
to say. a coat that has tails to 1t demands
an ascot: a jacket Is worn with knot II
accompanied by the obsolescing double col
lar, very small knot: In no case Is a
cravat pin worn with the double collar; in
few cases is 1t worn with any kind of
knot. and this Is quite as It should be-
Men ought not to wear jewelry unless II
has definite usefulness for its excuse. An
ascot requires pin, because 1t will not
keep In place without one, but pin worn
in a knot Is mere excrescence, and
should be avoided almost as rigidly as 1t
would be In a bow, though I have even
seen some awful people who wore pins In a
bow, before now. But some men will wear
anything!
One thing Is worthy Of special mention
It Is a small silk pocket handkerchief for
carrying, as pocket" ~handkefchiefs are
nearly always carried nowadays. in the left
coat sleeve. The present fashion Is to dis
pense- as much as possible with handkers
chief pockets. and to keep the handker-
chief itself as much as may be out Of
sight Consequently fine light handker-
chiefs. small and perfectly plain. are the
prevalent article. and the beautiful white