Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-08-15
FOR FALL AND WINTER
Hints on the Coming Styles
In Hats,
SOME MoDIsH SHAPES
THERE WILL BE BIRDS WINGS
AND FEATHERS IN INFINITY.
The Vexed Question Of Crowns-Treat-
ment of Brims-Ribbons and Orna-
ments in Headgear.
SOME MODISH SHAPES


Plain velvets, the glove-inished, or the
royal cut weave. varied by the mirror fin
| ished or panne weave, constitute the ma
terials seen mostly in the models coming
from the hands of the Paris milliners But
there are many elegant creations of long
pile plush, both of plain and ribbed weaves;
much use has been made of chenille faced
fabrics; and these with the pushes, strong
ly contest favor with the velvets in the fine
French models Very charming hats were
seen among the early importations made of
sort of ribbon about an inch in width,
woven of silk fiber, with the effect of I'M
cut fringe. Closely woven silk net en-
broidered with silk floss and chenille cord,
and relieved with jet spangles In full widths
of the material, crown-pieces and bands, is
the covering for dainty bonnets; and motifs
In medalliOnS, ellipSes, wedge-Shaped de-
vices with bands of heavy cut Irish lace.
applied over plush (and even over beaver,
and used inserted, have part in the creation
of rich and dainty hats as well as of ele-
CANT bonnetS.
Black glove-finished, or royal cut velvet,
Is notable in the very large hats, especially
in the "GainSborough," and Amazon or
equestrian shapes White, in velvet both
of the glove-finished and panne weaves, is
seen in handsome French models, while the
the panne weave run through a purplish
wine. or the Chambertin of the last Syndi-
cate card; the millet-green of the Syndicate
card and the emerald green; rof and Ia
vande blues; dark golden and kola browns;
the Farewell-red of the Syndicate card, and
the usual grays and neutral tints. The
pushes are seen in beige and gray and In
mixtures Of beige, gray and dark blue with
a sprinkling of white. A remembered large
hat of long pile plush is plaided in lobelia-
blue, navy blue. black and white; and a
remarkable model from Paris is a very
large hat of long-pile plush Of grounding in
splashes in red. green. blue, ecru and black,
a somewhat outre design, after the idea, in
a way of the "cake-walk' sample of rib
bon of the Syndicate card
The Large Shapes.
On the large shapes in hats generally, as
also on the greater number of the box tur-
bans, and on the crowns of the most of the
new toques, the covering, of what character
soever 1t may be, is laid on smoothly; but
shirring is again in lively vogue, the velvet
on the crowns in many models being shir-
red on concentric lines, and likewise shirred
in that which covers the brim. note
worthy model in illustration is a very large
hat of medium tall. medium narrow, liz
top crown, which shows on the top me-
dalton Of shirred velvet in tobacco brown,
surrounded by six acute points, or star,
of shirred brown taffeta, pointed MOTHS or
heavy cut lace filling in the points of the
star covering the crown around the sides,
and running into acute points of the shir-
red taffetas on the brim band OF shirred
velvet two inches wide bordering the brim.
This hat is furnished with steamers, or
ties. of hemmed piece taffeta, nine inches
wide shirred in attaching to the crown and
edged with sewing-stlk fringe: ana a Frlnce
of Wales tuft Is posed at the left OF the
front of the crown A plateau hat OF panne
in pa
shirred on cords In lines radiating from the
center of the top; inch-wide bias folds, con-
centrically laid cover a plateau of panne
velvet in Chambertin color: and turban of
velvet In dark golden brown of the TRAN
eular or continental shape, has the velvet
in inch-wide folds laid across the crown and
surrounding the brim.
The wings, small birds, palettes. rosettes,
aigrettes and couteaux. all of which are
prepared in infinite variety for the coming
season. will be principally used in the trim
ming of such smaller hats and toques,
whereas for the smarter broad-brimmed
hats ostrich takes the lead. OF these,
demi-Amazons are more in demand than
quite long plumes. Still. have seen many
new models of this class trimmed with a
single long feather. sometimes thrown
athwart the crown (the quill thrust through
the rolled side of the brim). or fastened I'M
derneath the brim in front. and sweeping
round to the back. In both cases the
stump of the feather is inserted in
The shorter Amazons are generally used in
pairs. and it depends on how they are
placed whether sheaths are added or not.
Long and Short Tips.
Long and short ostrich tips are in best re-
quest The fashion of arranging three of
the former in a sort of Prince of Wales
plume is maintained by milliners who con-
tinue to advocate hats with jam-pot
crowns. For those with directoire crowns
both dem-Amazons and long tips are usu-
ally fastened to the crown so as to curl
toward the front or side of the brim.
Short tips are usually put on in clusters
of three, four or more. a trimming adopt
ed for the underside as we'll as the outside
of hats. These feathers invariably have
the tip curling very much over. Very dain-
ty little plumes. just the shape of one of
these tips are composed of carefully selected
cocks feathers. These are also arranged in
clusters. but in some instances l have seen
them mounted in marquis wreath. that is
to say. attached to a common wire which
partly enc1rcles the crown, all their tips
pointing forward-an arrangement also ex-
tended to ostrich tips, and which is at it's
best when the plumes of either sort are
graduated so as to run from dark to a
medium shade of any given color, from
a medium shade to white
The new plumes of Amazon formed Of a
number of small WINGS or portions of
wings. must be reckoned among the trim
composed of the side plumage of the bird
of-paradise. but as these are very costly
their use Is somewhat restricted; moreover,
those women who have Joined the league
against the destruction of rare birds will
certainly have none of them. The birds used
for the trimming of broad-brimmed pla-
teaux are large and arranged symmetrical
ly, the wings stretched out on each side to
their fullest extent and the head slightly
raised In front, not hanging in deathlike
attitude. They are not quite so fiat general
ly as they have been made hitherto.
Although trimmings still continue to add
no appreciate height to the shapes, the
fash1on or higher crowns allows trimmings
to be used that are not fat as formerly,
and yet does not rise above the height of
the crown 1t stands to reason, therefore,
that the choice Of trimming must depend
In great measure upon the greater or lesser
he1ght OF the crown shape. Plateau hats,
where the edge is not rolled or turned up
In any way, still require fiat trimmings.
Treatment Of Brims.
When the brim is not lined with the same
color one much lighter is generally chosen,
white. cream and palest sky-blue usually
being given the preference. Still, as we
have seen, very light hat may be lined
with black. Considerable attention is given
to this portion of the trimming. All broad
brimmed hats and plateaux are mounted
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