The Montgomery advertiser., 1903-09-29
MODERN SOFIA.
A Bright and Bustling Town That
 Suggests Paris.

Pail Mall Gazette.
 A wide, smiling valley, and, far beyond. the steep incline of an endless mountain range, the Vitosch chain. still snow- capped when we saw 1t, against bright blue sky, while nearer the earth was clad with cloak of the softest verdure, a lush green seming to round the contours of outline here and there. Such was the first impression of the panoramic setting within which we found enshrined Sofia the Bulgarian capital, as bright and modern looking a little town. as, say Baden Baden. and. indeed, more ren1i- niscent of some small German 'Residens stadt" in style and strlcture than any thing one generally associates mentally wit hthe near East. Two days are. of course, not muos in which to judge of any place.. It is merely the obvious then that strikes the visitors eye and is re- tained upon his mental retina, and there fore to our mind the name of Sofia is lasting associated with sundry broad and shady streets; boulevards. beneath which we watched with untiring interest the constant How of traffic, the coming and going of soldiers, mondaines. peasantry and curious semi-oriental figures. very evidently dwellers beyond that towering mountain range, whom a desire to barter or-who knows?-possibly even the ever present miasma of intrigue in these Bal kan principalities, had brought hither.
 It was late spring and the suns heat had something of the coming summer in it. yet these stolid, slowly moving figures wore their fur caps and long skin coats. of which the sheeps' wool turned inward forms the lining. without apparently the least discomfort. Most of them led their oxen, harnessed to cumbrous carts, while again near these the smart electric trans whizzed by-a strange and incongruous mixture of the East and West. The most picturesque element in the street traffic was the peasant women. many of the girls being quite beautiful their garments gay with red and blue embroideries. and their persons loaded with barbaric-look- ing silver ornaments, silver coins even glinting here and there amid their long. thick raven plaits. Another touch of color was given to this scene by the nu- merous different uniforms which distin- Ruished le militaire, the general appear ance of which reminds one of the Rus sian military dress, although the men seemed of a better physique. generally speaking. Toward evening this picture became even more animated. for the in- habitants of Sofia love the open air; the cafes and restaurants then assume the aspect of some lesser Paris. pretty faces, elegant toilets music and laughter doni- hating the scene in the smartest town quarter.
 Beyond this actual center of life stretch rows of villa residences. half buried at that time of year, amid leafy trees, while the ceaseless song of birds here. there and everywhere seemed to attest a scarc- fty of cats in Sofas suburban districts. and certainly stamped 1t as a veritable paradise for the feathered creation. The royal palace, now as correct" resi- dence as any prince could desire. was, we arc told, not always so: in fact. at the time of Prince Alexander's advent 1t was with some difficulty that two water-tigfft rooms could be found for the accommo- dation of his highness. while the unmade roads were then still dimly illumined with lanterns, making darkness visible. Since those days, however. the little Bull garian capital has certainly gone ahead. and at all events brushed itself up" ex- formally.