The daily morning journal and courier., 1903-07-10

Aguas calientes beforef nignt-fall. To the right of lofty snow clad mountain named Vilacanota, one follows for some miles and finally fords "a small stream, which seems to rise inA one or the hot springs so numerous In Fne locality and which is interesting because Peruvians believe it to be the m9ther-spring of the great Amazonas river system. The little stream which here takes the name of the nearby mountain, is known farther on as the Chalca and af- forwards as the Urubanda. Many miles farther northward, having gained much strength and volume, itsjoins the Rio Tapdo and their united waters form the famous UcadeIi, the largest of Pe- rus tributaries to the Amazon.
 The second night out one is booked to sleep at the village of Lituain, a ride of only eighteen miles through charming scenery. There is possible drawback, however, in the Licuain river, which must be forded several times and is likely to be rather high. There is a road on the left of the river, but trav- elers are warned to take to the water instead, for there are vast swamps on that side, with quicksand treacherous enough to engulf an army; and besides, anes must pass through the unfeneed hacienda of Antacucea, which is cele- brated far and near for it's wild cattle. Nobody goes over that dangerous road if he can possibly avoid it, there being no place of refuge should be be at tackled by the bulls. Fancy a party of peaceable United States tourists, in- cludlng two. women, riding quietly along on mule-baclS, when a, herd of wild cattle come charging full tilt upon them, and not a wall or tree or bush to hide behind! In the vicinity of the hot springs there are acres of plump mush- rooms and no passer by whose palate has been properly educated will fail to secure supply for his evening meal, whether he takes it at the tambo or, as we did, in the hospitable home of Don Fable Mejias.
 The third night one sleeps at '.Tinta"
 "a hacienda owned by an educated Italian, Senor Don Francisco Maspiotta, who is sure to give the pilgrim a htarty welcome. The road thereto lies through an ancient Indian village called Raccha, built within the crater of an extinct volcano. Among other curiosities it contains remarkable wall, which is said to be the remains of the palace built by the eldest son of Tupac Yupan- gui, who revolted against his royal father and in this stronghold main tained his independence. Near it is one of the many round towers so frequently found in this part of Peru, which are believed to have been astronomical ob- servatories, wherein the Ineas deter mined the meridian passage of the sun.
 On the fourth day one may take a leisurely jaunt of only fifteen miles to Checacute, where he will be made to feel quite at home by Colonel Martin Albarez. who is a regular king in his little \world-a large landed proprietor. member of congress and a wealthy wool merchant. There are yet forty miles to Cuzco, and a9rapid rider could accomplish that distance in one. day; but what is the use of tiring ones self, when it is. so much more comfortable to take things easily? One would better go only half way, say to Quiguijana, all though it Is miserable little hamlet with but one redeeming feature-a re- markable old bridge. Unless one has a letter to the village Cure and that itin- erant individual happens by rare good fortune to be at home, the night must be passed among the bugs and other pests of wretched post-nouse. Next morning one is glad to take on early start for Huaroc, twelve miles away, and even to forego breakfast until he reaches the casa of the local magnate, who rejoices under the high-sounding name of Senor Don Fructueso Egulie- tas. We went out of the way a few miles to view the little lake called ur- cos, famous in Peruvian tradition for being the burial place of that great gold chain of the Inca, Huascar. We read that the celebrated chain was long enough to encircle the grand cen tral plaza of Cuzco and that every link of 1t was asheavy as a strong man could earry-all of pure gold. Proba- bly, the story is nonsense; nevertheless we spurred our beasts to the perilous brink and faithfully tried to believe that we saw gold shining through the dark water. No seeurer hiding place for heavy treasure could be found, be- cause the lake has a bottom of unfatf- omable ooze which speedily swallows anything thrown into it and affords no footing for divers. Only about twenty four miles beyond Is Cuzco. in the midst of a smiling tropical volley. Af- ter leaving the highlands the weather grows warm and warmer; paroquetes and monkeys, palms and fig-trees are seen; and late in the sultry afternoon CIV came cantering into the stony streets of the old, old city, that had seen several centuries before the Uni ted States was born.
 l' FANNIE B. WARD.