The Savannah morning news., 1903-01-18

New York, Jan. 1.-THE fashionable
girl of spring will be composite crea-
ture. She will be severe, but feminine;
simple, but elegant, her gowns will re-
veal the most delightful color schemes,
but at all times will they be harmo-
NOUS. Her individual tastes will ind
expression in her gowns and every
thing that she wears will emphasize
her originality.
The spring novelties which now oc-
cupy the places of honor in the shops,
having relegated winter fabrics to the
bargain counters, are not necessarily
expensive, though there are instances
in which one might run the limit of
extravaganza. Happily, dress which
for many years raised a sharply &C
centuated dividing line between the
rich and poor has to-day leveled all
class lines, and some of the most
beautiful materials are SO cheap that
they are easily within the reach Of the
woman with limited dress allowance.
For instance among the smartest
fabrics in which the newest shirt
waists appear are mercerized cotton,
madras, chambray, batiste, linen, null,
lawn and nainsook rayee, which, by
the way, is no more or less than a
linen-finished cotton fabric with a
high-sounding name.
The spring shirt waist, while it Says
over the belt at the front shows
square, rather than the rounded out
line of previous years. This Is a
French idea which will no doubt be-
come very popular in America, es-
pecially with slender, graceful women.
The shirt wait suit which appeals
principally to women whose mornings
are devoted to shopping is diversified
this season by a few touches of color.
An especially chic design is carried out
IN gobelin blue foulard embroidered in
old rose and nile green silk. The
blouse waists closes with an inverted
box-plait and has two narrow plaitS
at the shoulders which intermingle
gracefully with the folds of the blouse
| effect at the end of the stitching. The
sleeves are in bishop pattern and have
an inverted box-plait to the elbow.
A novel idea is expressed in the hip
| yoke, which is made in one piece with
| the narrow front breadth of the skirt
and supports three wide fiounces which
| are unlined, but given support by a
drop skirt of cobelin blue taffeta.
| Still another shirt waist frock is
made of putty colored pongee and has
| the skirt shirred around the top in
stimulation of a hip-yoke. The waist
| is a distinctive affair, being embroid-
cred down the front with the Japanese
| alphabet in bright colored silks.
The new color schemes are to be rec
| commended for their daintiness and gen.
| eral becomingness. Grey with shades
of sage green is favorite combination,
although it is often compelled to share
| honors with burnt orange mingled with
white cloth and ecru lace. Indeed there
are but few combinations which do not
include the lace, for. like the touch of
black, it lends character to gown
when other trimmings fail.
Brown and white. one of Ghe most
sought schemes of winter will be her
itage' of spring fashions. A very smart
street gown is of brown and white
mixed goods with pipings of brown silk.
The jacket has bishop sleeves and a
loose plated front, with a double coll
lar and stole which are piped with
silk.
The skirt has habit back and is or
namented with wide straps of the ma
terial piped with silk. Drak brown
crocheted ornaments form an effective
finish on both jacket and skirt.
For something that is really smart
and inexpensive nothing could be more
satisfying than a gown in dark green
velvet fiecked with French gray The
gown is on the hirt-waist-and-skirt
order, but made very simply and
gracefully.
Accompanying such a toilette is a
smart toque of green velvet. Its only
trimming consists of large blue and
green bird, which covers the left side
and droops over the back of the toque.
Desiring a touch of gray in the hat a
bird with wing feathers of this shade
might be selected, but the blue and
green is quite the most chic novelty of
the day.
There are a thousand ways of en-
ploying tucks on suits and bodices and
each is distinctive and pretty. Royal
blue zibeline is selected for "a dressy
street suit for spring wear. The gown
is decorated with narrow corded tucks
and pipings of blue satin and was de-
signed especially for the Automobile
Show, which is attracting considerable
social attention.
The coat is made with a peplim and
| hell sleeves. 1t has a rolling collar
and revers of blue satin apuifoued
with white lace. The finishing touches
are gained through an imposing silk
cord and ornaments matching the suit
in color.
Beaver hats will be worn very late
anu OSCOittHS ina IOpOS Dy the coming
OF spring weather will be supplanted
by chiffon designs carrying out the
same ideas in shape and trimming.
One of the daintiest CONNECTIONS of the
season is hat of grey beaver
trimmed with grey and white panne
which extends across the front and
over the upturned hrim on the left
side, with long grey and white
plume.
novelty that promises to be more
than a passing fancy is shown in the
new gloves. They are made of suede
and widening with something az
circular flare above the last button are
GUNS OF the suede embroidered In silk
in raised designs. This necessitates
the wearing of the sleeve wristbane
peneath the glove, but as the en-
broideries shown on the gloves are in
the seasons popular shades II is an
easy matter 70 select tints that will
harmonize with the gown.