Evening star., 1903-07-06
RUSSIAN RESTAURANTS
NATIONAL VIANDS IN THE LAND
OF THE CzAR.
Color Studies in Meats and Vegetables
Uses Of Vodka-A
Strong Drink.
From the London Globe.

From the London Globe.
1t does not seem typically Russian, and
yet 1t is the best restaurant in the town.
No men cooks are visible. clothed in white
from neck to foot; there is no organ which.
at the request Of any visitor, will send
forth strains that threaten to break the
drum of the ear or to set the digestion all
agog. The room is small and gloomy, for
the lower half Of the windows is of frosted
glass; Near the door are two stands, sew
eral yards long. each of them with pegs,
and here the nimble attendants busy them
selves with hanging up the furs or with
taking them down and with slowing away
goloshes. In four rows along the room are
tables with white cloths. but set out with
out any attempt at style. Here and there
upon the cushioned seats newspapers lie
Russian, Polish, German, French and on
the walls there are few cheap pictures
representing Alpine scenes. high, snowy
mountain peaks, as II to give some momen-
tary relief to eyes that have perhaps
scarcely ever gazed on anything but an in
terminable plain. At one end of the rest
aurant there is a counter, near which the
walters appear and disappear with dishes
in their hands, and behind the counter the
manager Of the establishment a round
faced Swiss. with shaven chin and twink
ling eyes. Is busily engaged In attending to
the wants Of numerous customers. who
stand and eat.
Banquets Of Edibles.
On a nearer inspection of the counter tho
sight that presents itself Is a most attrac-
| tive one. Wonderful indeed, are the colors
| and combination of colors that fish, meat.
cheese and vegetables may be made to as
sume.. Here on a piece OF toast Is q tiny
bit of herring with chopped-up carrot
placed around it; there is caviar on black
bread, one of the most popular comestibles
in Russia. At one end of the counter lies
sucking pig entire, gloriously adorned
with parsley, and with lemon in its
mouth. At the other is a deep-hued ham.
| and between are salads innumerable, to-
matoes beetroot, eggs covered with thick
sauce and dainty morsels of Siberian game.
Perhaps the most beautiful object is a
mysterious composition, which appears to
consist of pork, overlaid with a cunning
design in carrots. jelly pickles and kidney
beans. more ingenious and captivating than
! a Carthaginian mosaic. Indeed, it seems
almost a proclamation to eat any Of these
things. so pleasing are they to the eye But
the attendant is peremptory; 1t is necessary
to make a choice at once, and to wash 1t
down with glass Of vodka, which is
drunk liquer. 1t is transparent and
colorless as water. but is a fiery beverage
for all that. and is prepared from rye and
potatoes 1t has been defined distilled
damnatfon" and must be taken at a
draught, for the slipping of it is considered
proof Of enjoyment, and therefore. ac-
| cording to the Russian, of future sojourn
In the place of eternal torment.
The Zakuska.
This is the zakuska, which in Russia and
in Sweden is taken standing before the real
meal begins, either to excite the appetite,
or. as Is more likely, to help the hungry WIS.,
itor to walt for the dish that he has
dered. When the zakuska is finished 1t is
time to sit down at table and to begin
with bortch. Bortch is the national soup,
and the Russian Is as proud Of 1t as the
Englishman Of roast beef. And 1t must be
confessed that hortch is an admirable prep
aration 1t is deep red. being made from
beetroOt, but only the experienced can tell
what treasures. are hidden in its depths.
Onions perhaps swimming on the top,
beneath the surface a tomato is not improb-
ably concealed, and at the bottom lies
chop succulent as a young chicken. while.
as If this were not enough the waiter brings
a tureen that contains sour cream which
should be eaten with the soup. 1t is quite
possible to make whole dinner of bortch-
soup, vegetables, meat-and 1t is not Won
derful that the Russian likes it to form the
first course of his dinner saints day,
for which he has perhaps prepared himself
by a rigorous fast.
Sturgeon and Sterlet.
After the soup comes fish. Russia is IA
n BUS for it's fish. The Volga and the Cas-
plan produce huge sturgeon while the ster-
let Is considered a great delicacy. And the
Russians excel in the variety and prepara-
ton of their dishes, for the climate seems
to necessitate the consumption Of large
quantities of food, so that it Is said that one
Russian eats as much German police.
man, three Frenchmen and two English
men, Jojarsky outlets form another
tional dish Jojarsky was mighty warrior
who wasted fields and slaughtered men
when Muscovy was hard pressed by Poles
iC NOT to
what he has to do with the chicken outlets
that are called after him, and are so soft
that toothless people may delight in them
Puddings do not seem to be much appre-
ciated in the land of the czar, but there are
few countries in which such delicious cakes
may be had. The Poles. the French of Rus
sia. excel in making them. AS for wines
the visitor may order Tokay, Sauterne
Bordeaux, but If he does he must under
stand that they are the produce of vine
that has been brought from different coun-
tries in Europe and cultivated with much
success on the sunny hills that fringe the
Crimea. And last of all comes coffee or