The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-09-26

upon many of the gowns. but are sci. under.
not applied. In the case of the cloth the
edge is simply cut, but finish OF tiny braid
or cord often Is seen. Another model also
is in mouse color, but, IN this instance. the
fabric is chiffon velvet and the trimming
passementerie OF silk cords The skirt 10
made with shirred flounce that extends
round the whole. a plain front gore above
and sides and back that are shirred at the
belt and again midway between that point
and the fiounce. The coat is long one.
blouse and tunic combined deliberately
trimmed with the passementerie and fin
ished with a tiny cape collar made OF
straight lace gathered, and it's sleeves are
in a little more than elbow length with
wide shirred cuffs. With IL is an accom-
panying waist OF cream silk trimmed with
lace medallions, the very full pulled sleeves
of which are seen below those of the coat.
Sleeves. by the way, are very. generally
so large as to be best described % huge.
The lace falls over the hands, to- which
charmingly graceful worn by women Of
leisure and elegance, only, let US hope,
they will not be cheaply copied. One-sees
so many horrors that result from just such
mistaken zeal.
RIOT OF COLOR.
Among other things bright colored cloths
are shown made up for reception and visit
ing wear and are really extremely attrac-
tive. One that noted specially is-of geax-
Inc apple green and shows a little Elton
coat, with a stole embroidered at each
end with tiny basket of flowers after a
manner charmingly suggestive of old
French designs. Undoubtedly the color
scheme is a gay one, but It is in pleasant
tones and the result is admirable in its
way. With all these coat suits comes the
inevitable demand for odd waists. Cloth,
supple as II has been made. Is far too
heavy for bodices. Velvet is overheating
when worn beneath a coat. AS a result all
sorts of lovely waists are offered. Many
faCh
color and soft silks. crepes de Chine and the
like are made up In harmony with the
gowns. Now and then one sees the suit
material introduced as trimming, In bands.
discs and the like. but white. in silk. lace
and chiffon. retains its favor and will be
worn with all costumes OF the sort. Chiffon
as interlining for lace is always lovely and
is used and one sees many elaborate de-
signs, but almost uniformly all OF the
handsome sort are closed at the back. De-
signers claim that the effects obtained are
infinitely better and women long ago re-
signed themselves to the Inconvenience. In
truth, only long. perpendicular lines can be
used on the waist with front closing and
the opening at the back Is infinitely prefer
able to the one at shoulder and UNDER
arm seams. In the one instance the wearer
accepts and prepares to meet the trials.
gle to help herself.
Dinner and evening gowns are OF the
thinnest, softest fabrics made very full.
The emergencies of the heavier materials
have made it necessary to keep shirrings
reduced In number and fullness, but In
these gowns OF filmy stuffs they are err
abled to have full play. We see shocking.
plain shirrings and tucks galore, with ali
the fine hand stitching possible. A pe-
culiarly charming dinner gown of the more
elaborate sort Is of chiffon combined with
panne satin and serves 10 exemplify some
of the special features lately introduced
The entire gown Is made OF white chiffon
over owe SIX ak, and SO obtains peculiarly soft
but made with the short train, TO which
L have already referred. IL is shocked for
several inches below the belt and Is trimmed
with haIf-Iength panels of blue panne satin
that are richly embroidered with blue
silver and white. Between these panels
are wide folds of chiffon. three In number.
nnished after the manner Of the milliner's
fold, set on. The bodice is simply full. but
is a mass of fine tucks and shocking and Is
completed by a tiny yoke and collar OF
feature and quite new. well as notable
They are of the satin and are big and
square, falling from the elbows In angel
style and showing the arms beneath At
their edges are bands OF embroidery
matching that upon the panels OF the skirt.
AT the waist Is worn deep girdle Of
satin and chiffon combined.
BEAUTIFUL NEEDLEwORK
The needlework is superb. Never have 1
seen finer except some that, few years
ago, was sent over from Turkey for sale.
The unfortunates left stranded by war and
a
OF wise women and taught TO put their
wonderful embroideries to a practical use
Among other lovely things shown at the
time were gray chiffon embroidered with
silver and white chiffon with gold that
have fingered In my memory since as en-
bodying all that Is most exquisite IN the
needlewoman's art. This work. executed
on the satin. lacks the deiicacy lent bv
the more fiimy chiffon. but otherwise stands
comparison well. Happily, however, there
are appliques offered quite beautiful enough
to satisfy all ordinary demands which can
be obtained for far smaller sum. One
must admire the more costly work Who.
with an eye for beauty. could fail to ap-
preciate its delicate color; but In this age
OF reckless luxury and extravagance to
learn to look upon such, and similar things.
as lovely pictures 10 be admired not COW
and one that can not be impressed too
deeply. There was a time. and not 80
long ago, when beauty was not easily OBJ
tainable In simple things. Rich and costly
fabrics only took good color. Handmade
laces alone were known. Designs were
only desirable In high-priced fabrics But
are found I'm materials OF little price as
well as big. Exquisitely beautiful laces
are machine made. The craving for beauty.
inherent in and natural TO every feminine
mind, can be and Is gratified without undue
outlay. Our simplest fabrics show color
art Of dyeing. IL In nothing else. this last
decade has achieved great things. Be-
coming dress, appropriate dress tasteful
dress In essential TO self-respect. Also Il
Il every woman's duty TO make herself
charming TO those about her. But. be-
to hold many buyers reason entkralled. 10
a wfia 0,tIf that IL would be Wise uever To