The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1903-10-25
MOUNT M'klNLH
is HARD TO CLIMB
DR.. Frederick Cook Gives the
Details of His Unsuccessful
Attempt.

NEW YORK, Oct. 24.-Dr. Frederick
Cook, member of the expedition
who made an unsuccessful attempt this
summer to ascend Mount Mckinley, in
Alaska, the highest mountain in North
America, has returned to his home in
Brooklyn. The party, which left New
York May 26, was composed of Or.
Cook, who has had experience in arc
tic and antarctic exploration with
Peary and others; Robert Dunn, geolo-
gist; Ralph Shainwald, botanist, who
was member of the Baldwin iegler
expedition; Walter Miller, topographer,
of Seattle; Mr.. Ridprintz, of Darby.
Mont. John Carroll, Of Valdez. Alas
ka, and two Indians. DIR. Cook said to-
day that the trip had completely es-
tablished the fact that it is impossi-
BILE to scale Mount Mckinley, 20,400
feet high, from its western side, but
that three routes were noted on the
eastern slope, by one of which it is
possible the summit may be reached.
Owing to the lateness Of the season
it was impossible to attempt these
routes this year. Other results of
the expedition were the exploration of
some hitherto unknown country to the
eastward of the Mckinley range, the
discovery of what is probably the
largest glacier in Alaska and the gath
ering of valuable botanical collections.
Following the suggestion of Mr..
Brooks, of the geological survey said
DIR. Cook, I'VE determined to attack
the west side of the mountain, and
made our start from Cook inlet, at
Tycnek. We followed an Indian trail
to the Kuchatua river, crossing the Be-
luga and Skeenwentua river by boat. On
the way / climbed Mount Yenlo. $500
feet, and obtained good view and sur
vey of the whole Mckinley range. We
followed up the Kuchatua in wester-
ly direction, crossed the Mckinley
range, through Simpson pass, and, pro-
ceeding along the northwestern slope
of the Mckinley range above the tim
Der line, we reached Mount Mckinley
on Aug. IA. This left us but fourteen
days in which to make our trial, the
practicable season ending Sept. /.
I'VE first attacked the mountain from
the southwest, but We're stopped by
glacier. In the second attempt we
reached an elevation of 11,400 feet,
when we were stopped by spur of the
main mountain with almost perpendic-
ular slopes of granite rock forming an
impossible obstacle to any ascent from
that side. The mountain is an almost
continuous series of granite cliffs, cor
niced by oyerhanging glaciers. We
were greatly hampered by the advance
of winter and heavy snow, which made
it necessary for 1000 feet or the climb
to dig away thirteen inches of snow
before cutting the steps in the glacial
ice.
After finding the western slope en-
tirely impracticable, we had to get out
of the country quickly, and instead of
returning the way we had come we de-
cided to cross the range and come down
the east side, travelling over 100 miles
of unexplored country. We found
break in the range fifty miles northeast
of Mount Mckinley at an elevation of
5000 feet, crossed it and dropped down
into the valley of the Sushitna. striking
the Chulitna, the largest tributary Of
the Sushitna river. This flows through
remarkable canyon, which made it
necessary to abandon our horses and
take to RATS, on which we came down
through the UNEMPLOYED eastern foot
hills Of Mount Mckinley. We discoy-
cred two glaciers, one probably the
largest in the interior or Alaska, and
made a.rapid survey of the east slope
of the range. On Sept. 10 we left
Mount Mckinley, and in five days had
reached Underwater at Cook Inlet
The trip was one of great hardship
on the return trip, especially, the mems
clothing being drenched constantly by
frequent dimensions in the glacial
streams They opened up the best
hunting grounds in America for earl.
bou, mountain sheep and moose, DR..
Cook says, the western foothills being &
great game preserve.
Mount Mckinley is of granite,
weighted down with not less than fifty
disconnected glaciers and everywhere
precipitous walls" said DR.. Cook. ut Is
probably the most difficult mountain
in America to ascend on account of its
distance from the coast line, supplies
having to be carried 800 miles through
difficult country and arctic conditions
encountered from the start On the
east side there are three glaciers which
terminate at an altitude of about LOO
feet, and over these a route to the up
per valleys of the summit may be
found"