New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1903-09-05
PARTISAN TOILETTE.
The NEW WALKING SUIT.
Forecasts of Its Characteristic Features for
Winter Wear

What shall I get for my walking suit2' is
the question which the woman of moderate means
is asking herself and her tailor. walking suit
she must have. il she is TO be IN the fashion-a
well cut. well hung skirt. that escapes the ground
by inch or two. and a coat whose main feature
is length. She may De on the lookout for an $ 20
walking suit bought from the counter of a depart
meut store. or she may have an $50 suit in her
minds eye But all the same and any way q
walking suit she must have.
While many Of these suits are plain. and
rely upon their cut and finish for their style some
OF the latest models introduce dash Of color in
the trimming II may be a soupcon Of green or
red pale gray on the sleeve or the coilarless
neck. II may be that the color is introduced
| IN the suit itself with the solid color and plain
material forming the decoration. as in suit of
J fecked blue and white with cord trimmings of
! dark blue broadcloth. Reseda green is used with
pleasing effect a green costume Of two toned
material Red. however. seems TO be the favorite
touch up" color.
More elaborate than the walking suit is the
costume suit which comes in three pieces and
Is cut with train. As street suits have grown
plain and severe. these costume suits have grown
more elegant and ornate. until now they show a
wonderful and successful union Of soft elegance
with the briliancy of jet passementeries. jewelied
buttons and exquisite embroideries.
some Of the salient points connected with the new
costume suits are the decided widening Of the belt
which now assumes the name and the dimensions
Of a rirdle the increase in the width OF the sleeves
exceedingly long shoulder. The almost universal
adoption OF the cape I'm one form or another; the
gradual Increase in the width and fulness of the
skirt from band to hem and the prevalence of trim
ming the skirt
High yokes are a recognized part Of the skirts
just as are the pleats or cores.
There is a wide choice in colOrs for the costume
suit The new mauve and the rich plum shade are
being used for some Of the handsOmest Black is
always good style. Brown is expected TO be pop
uar some blues are being made up. Green. on
- ..src1W~ E1THr QnEn
broadcloth and fine silky zibeines in one or two
tones are the first favorites. but mixed cheviots
and the like will also be extensively used
Hin vokes I'm some gUise or other appear every
eight models out Of ten. Fine pleats or tucks com
hine With shirrings in the softer fabrics such as
crepe Dc chine and point d-esprit. They are intro
duced In a series Of rows that may engthwise
or crosswise. or both. any way. long as the
straight lines are preserved from hip 10 knee. The
shirred or the habit back is employed. according
10 the nature Of the fabric but the pleated back.
though seen occasionally. is not 50 popular.
As for the waists. these are marvels Of beauty.
a great many Of them being Of chiffon or silk
mousseline. the color Of the skirt which may be Of
cloth not
Bits u the skirt whatever 1t is built Of intro
duoed on the waist 10 show the relationship be-
tween the two.
The coats 10 these costume suits are ornamental
in the extreme The great majority are long skirted
and fairly regal with rich decoration. Capes and
fancfully devised grdles costly buttons. brads and
ernhroideries. all combine 20 make the garment
hitting complement Of the skirt and blouse.
Many viii buy a separate coat or Jacket
wear with their various skirts ana shlrtwaists-
The new Jackets and coats decidedly attractive
garments According 'CreranG's Cloak Jour
nal" whose fancy weave and rough surfaced ma
terials are used. long. loose. full lines are often
followed Rich smooth materials take OF the char
acter OF the fitted and lorg skirted garment. But
this is not be construed in any hard and fast
manner. for many Of the separate coats Of black
cloth are Of the loose model There are rough sur
IA -ed cloths and long furred materials and heavy
smooth faced goods
In color Tor staple coats. black is the leader.
since there Is a certain elegance and refinement
bout a black coat which is often hard to impart
TO more expensive coats in unusual shades. In
browns one may pass from the delicate tint known
as biscuit through the mode and tobacco shades
so represented In rough surfaced goods. There is
new purple. q deep rich shade known prune.
which doubtless be good deal, and blues
have q lso a certain vogue
Nine out Of Of the models show some
sort Of cane or epaulet or military braid ar
rargernent Canes are generally employed in the
plural the single cape being incOnspicuous by rea-
son Of SIS infreQuency. Another noteworthy point
is The excessively long shoulder. The more elegant
the garment the longer the shoulder. II Is some
times dificut to tell where the sleeve begins and
rrodels snow a shoulder that is really onequarter
or one-half sleeve. far down on the arm does
the garment hang this point Necks are collar
less and sleeves are very large IN fact they may
Be- termed huge on the more elaborate coats.