The Montgomery advertiser., 1903-03-15
HOW TO DRESS SMART
IA TAILOR TO THE "55ov TELLS ABOUT EXTRAvAGANT MEN.
New York Has Twenty Men Who Spend $1O,OOo in Clothes Ev- cry. Year-Some Remarkable
 Facts About the Cost of
 Fashionable Dressing.
New York World

lay out Sl0,OOO in clothes every year.
 This winter we sold an overcoat fol sl4,OOo. It was made of the finest sable we are making up a suit for one GUS. toner for which. the material alone-rich Genoese velvet-cost $a,000. One custom! CT of ours has paid $500 for clothes be. tween October and February. Another gavecu an order for s4.6O0. For a fur overcoat A.000 Is very common.
 New York men are not so cosmopolitan yet as London men. Centuries of careful dressing have made 1t fairly part of the lives of well-bred, Englishmen. There tailors have little to say about mans clothes. He knows just what he wants He may try on a coat twenty times be. fore he is satisfied with its fit.
 The tailor says, "Yes. sir," and lets his patron do the talking. Such mer make the styles for well-dressed men on both sides of the Atlantic. Here ir New York some men know what they want; most of them do not.
 In England e man makes a style tc suit himself. It is becoming and a fash. Ion starts. There is no such thing there as a conclave of tailors or matters oI shoemakers who meet and determine the styles for all men. An Englishman will keep the same block for his hats for ter or fifteen years. the same last for his shoes year in and year out.
 But we are gradually coming to 1t ir this country. More and more the leisure class is realizing how much can be done with colthes, and are doing 1t. There are men now in New York whose clothes will compare favorably with those ot men in the Guards or Hussars, whose whole life is given up to dress and so- ciety.
 How many Americans will go to the trouble of wearing a pair of vanished boots for perhaps an hour, appearing at one or two afternoon functions, and then returning home to don another spotless pair of shoes, freshly vanished and just off the trees? Many Englishmen do this
 Americans are not yet up to boning their boots instead of backing them. Boning Is the rubbing of an animal bone -the best is the shin of a red deer-over the leather till 1t acquires a dull polish. No well-dressed Englishman would think of wearing pair of leather brooches white or brown-until they were properly cured This takes two days. White buckskin brooches and white shoes are carefully whitened and then rubbed by hand with tale powder until they ac- quire a dull shine which no one ever sees here. It is these little niceties that make the Englishman the best-dressed man in the world
 To return to the cost of dressing smart ly.
 Now. to replenish.
 The man who has but $1,000 to spend would do it in this wise: In the autumn he would need, perhaps. two sack suits at S75 and one morning suit, a cutaway, at $S5. In the spring he could get along with two more sack suits at s75 apiece, counting upon his old stock to help fill out.
 He could get fur overcoat for $275, an ulster for $9o, a spring coat for $S5 and a winter dress overcoat for $115. Of rourse he would have to get along with one new overcoat of some kind each sea- son. He would have to have at least one evening suit a year at $125, and half a dozen evening waistcoats at SIS each.
 Each year he should add a pair of white flannel trousers to his outfit, at SIS a pair. Having four or five pairs already. he can get along nicely. He could have a simple suit or two for sports and per haps one house suit of black velvet, at S150, and with the $25O or so left he can fit himself out with underclothes, shirts ties, hats and shoes.
 The man who spends $10,0O0 will find it easy to use 1t up. In the first place, he will require six sack suits in the au- tumn and six sack suits in the spring These will average up at $S5 apiece. He will need, perhaps, three morning suits cut in the cutaway style, and two frock coats of black, with frock suits of gray and another of brown for the races and other country events. These will aver age up $1OO apiece.
 He needs two evening suits for winter, of fairly heavy material, at $125. and two more for summer of what we call tropi- cal cloth. This is as light as paper and delightfully."- cool. When a man dances every night in summer he must at least have two of these suits at $135 each.
 The S1G,0OO man would need four over coats each year. He woIld have six new house suits, two travelling suits, two house robes, a fur coat for dress, fur coat for country driving-going to the station. hunting, a night sleigh ride-and for all the sports another great variety of clothes.
 Here we come to leather brooches for shooting and polo-$55 a pair. There must be couple Of pink coats at $75. Four or five pairs of brooches will be necessary, because 1t takes two days to cure a pair after use. Then there are the automobile clothes A special fur overcoat Is needed. This would be 8, ,OO0 alone.
 Besides ndlI QOZen manner SultS at $10O there must be two or three silk hats for the beach. They are marvel ously cool. They are made of silk, but exactly initiate flannel Of course, they cost much more.
 Ira yelling colthes are very important for a man who spends $10.0OO. One of our newest is a coat of gray nerringbone or homespun lined with gray squirrel with out any of the fur showing. Perhaps $4O0 would buy such a coat.
 It is the house suits where man can spend a great deal of his clothing allow ance. There are suits made of silk or velvet, which, smart men wear in coun- try houses during that period of the day. when the sport Is over and the ladies have gone upstairs to take a nap or dress. The men gather in the hall for a chat, Scotch and soda. billiards or what not. In the dim light of the fire 1t is a very picturesque sight-so many silks and velvets mingling together. The cheapest of these suits cost $50. One of our GUS toners ordered six at once. These are made to suit the wearers taste. They may be of popln or brocade or velvet or figured silk. Here a mans taste Is very varied.
 One of our newest ones is of black velvet brocade with purple lining and a waistcoat of watered silk of the same shade. The trousers have a wide purple silk stripe. Another We have just fn- ished for young California millionaire is of emerald green figured poplin.
 The house robes are of the same ma- terial. with trousers to match. among careful dressers. One of our customers recently took three, all made of white