davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Savannah morning news., 1903-07-12

pattern of each flOunce is cut out and
appliqued to a silk one, so that the
deep lace borders seem part of it.
Many lace and embroidery trimmed
dresses display cape collars of the gar
niture, falling in a round line as far
as the elbows. These button in the
back, with sometimes only a narrow
ribbon bias for the neck finish. Again
such collars will have high transpar-
ent stocks, but the ones which expose
the throat are more admired by the
up-tO-date girl.
Silk-hnished linen is a new and
gracefully falling texture favored by
the French whose models in such ma
terials show a sublime simplicity. Lin
on de sole is the shop name for this
material. which combines wen with
the antique laces of the season.
This combination realized a dress
imported for a Bar Harbor belle, who
is in type divinely tall and as divinely
fair. The model was a full-gathered
skirt and a blouse bodice, with a sin
gle deep band of the lace some seven
inches from the bottom of the skirt,
and a unique bodice yoke on it. With
the bodice fastening at the back this
outlined a yoke Of the linen running
over the sleeve tops and down the
front of the waist in stole band.
Nothing could be more maidenly
simple than these charming and ex-
pensive French frocks. But their very
occurrences is coquetry, and she
who gazes upon the feat is inclined to
deplore the heavy and too lavish finger
of the American maker.
The sartorial authorities declare
that this tendency to inartistic effus-
iveness is observed in all departments
The Savannah morning news., 1903-07-12
BY MARY DEAN.

The toilettes now being seen at Sara
toga, Bar Harbor. Newport and other
watering places of dressy prestige de-
lghtfully prove Fashions declared
preference for white. Linen. yelling,
pongee, silk and cloth express the vir-
ginal fad with dropping lines and
trimmings both elaborate and simple.
Where a precious lace will be used
upon a wash texture a thin cloth will
often depend entirely upon tucking for
ornament.
Some entire gowns of Irish lace are
seen, but, singular as it may seem.
this exquisite web is not effective in
this shape. In straight-edged inser-
tions for coarse linen it is much hand
somer. Even then only a moderate
quantity should be used, and that in
a pattern which will dominate the
gown material.
group of stunning dresses ordered
forwatering place use included three
of heavy white Irish linen. Two dis
played a combination trimming of
braid and embroidery shown at sa-
lient points; the third showed mas
sive band of Irish lace in the bottom
of the otherwise plain skirt.
Skirt hips are trimmed in many odd
ways, as we'll as the huge bottom puffs
of the fashionable sleeve, and the lace
or embroidery incrustations will often
be matched by a cap which fits the
sleeve tight to the arm at the shoulder
point Down the apron of the skirt
runs the same decoration, or it may
The Savannah morning news., 1903-07-12

but through the nose; and inhale as
deeply as possible.
Don't push the sound out with the
throat. Enunciate clearly with the
lips. Sustain tone with the dia-
phragm The vocal chords will then
vibrate unsteady.
Don't try always to speak in a
"sweet, low voice" Cultivate variety.
Let the tones be gay, warm, vivacious.
Don't expect to speak clearly unless
you hold up your head and open your
| throat as well as your mouth. Let the
tone gush forth, if not like the song
of bird, at least in as dulcet tones as
| you can command.
Don't think you can have a good
| speaking or singing voice unless you
stand erect, with free, light, buoy
ant carriage of the body, with the
weight carried well on the balls of the
! feet.
Don't, when sitting. settled down in
a collapsed attitude, with all the
weight resting on the small of the
back. Hold the chest high, take long
breaths and expand the lungs.
Don't let a sleepy, dreamy, unsocial
temper control you, so that you speak
in dull, thick tone at the back of the
lnTOdt, WHICH is the most Trying OIL all
voices to understand.
Don't take life too seriously, if you
want a melodious voice. Relax the
strained muscles of the face and neck
and look and be happy and contented.
| Think of pleasant things.
Don't whine and don't become hypo-
| critical, or you will probably have a
harsh, rasping voice.
| Don't tire the voice. If the throat is
sore, keep the tongue quiet. Common
sense is as important quality in
training the voice as it is in every
| thing else.
Don't have a company voice, to be
put on with your best dresses. Treal
| your family to your best modulated
tones.
Don't expect to have any status in
| the social world if you have an uncul-
| tured, indistinct utterance. A person
| is given her place by the manner OF
| her speech.
Don't despair even if your voice is
rasping, drawing, hard, thin. nasal
with piercing head tones, or loose and
| fluffy. With care, time and patience
it may become harmonious, crystalline
| caressing, with variety of infection.
Don't think lemon juice a panacea
for harshness of voice While it affords
| temporary relief, the strong acid is ex-
| tremely injurious to the vocal chords
| To soothe the congestion that produces
hoarsenes, nothing is better than the
white of an egg whipped to stiff
| frOth.
Don't pin your faith to the saving
virtues of strong, black coffee. II
you have to speak or sing for any
| length of time, a tablespoonful OF
glycerine in twice the quantity OF
| brandy relieves the voice.
Don't fasten a bunch of flowers on
your corsage, if you are going to read
or sing in public. Some flowers vio-
lets particularly, have a curious effect
upon the voice, often causing hoarse-
| ness.
] Don't imagine that beauty, dress
The Savannah morning news., 1903-07-12

front trimmed by black silk buttons
and cord ornaments. The fullness
over the chest is kept in place by a
four-inch shirring. The fancy stock
collar is trimmed with lace applique(
and the stitched tabs, which conceal
the long shoulder seams, are also
garnished with silk buttons. The
sleeves are laid in tucks to the elbow
and puff over a narrow cuff.
charming frock, which is built
on still more elaborate lines, is a
Louisine in a metallic shade of blue
The full skirt is shirred all around the
top under a deep pointed ceinture or
girdle. A three-inch band of white
point de Venise runs around the skirt
below the knees. This is bordered
by triple runnings of narrow dull
green velvet ribbon. Below it are APP
pliqued shorter bands of insertion,
which form an oddly pointed orna-
ment in the front
The full blouse waist is cut out in a
point at the neck and worn over a
standing collar and dtcky of the lace.
The edge of the neck is ornamented
by an applique band of the ribbon-run
lace, which extends in oddly pointed
tabs down the front of the blouse
Two shorter bands parallel it over
each shoulder. the second one Gaping
the sleeve.
The big puffed sleeve is hardly more
than elbow length. 1t is drawn into
"a narrow cuff of the lace trimmed
with the velvet ribbon. The ceinture
or girdle is also of the lace fancifully
run with the ribbon. The standing
collar of the under-vest or dicky is
headed by triple rows of the ribbon.
A green chiffon parasol, and a smart
hat of green satin straw trimmed with
wreath of cornfowers complete a
striking costume
The Savannah morning news., 1903-07-12
THE PICNIC CORNER
ANOVEL FAD FOR
PREVENTING WORRY

In the family that is fond of picnick-
ing, a picnic drawer will be found 10
save much time and vexation of spirit
Preferably, the drawer should be a
deep one in the pantry or kitchen
closet, easy of access and sworn to
picnic purposes alone.
In it there should be a package Of
Japanese napkins, a ball of cord, sew
eral sheets of paraffine paper, box Of
corks of various sizes. ditto bottles
suited for mayonnaise, vinegar, milk
lemonade, olives, pickles, coffee, and
pile of good, smooth wrapping pa
per and paper bags.
Hero, also. should be a penic salt
and pepper shaker, a box of wooden
toothpicks for skewering deviled eggs
in shape, two or three jelly glasses
with tight covers that screw on, a
pile of paper or wooden plates Of
varying sizes, and picnic cups of the
light German ware, selecting those
with handles.
One or two tin baking-powder cans
with covers, will prove convenient
ana there must De q cOThScreN, a can
opener, and all the nice, clean bon
bon or shoe boxes that can be OBJ
tanned. A couple of small table
cloths, retired from active service, will
often come in handy, as we'll as an
old crash towel, if the picnic is to be
an all-day affair.
A half dozen steel knives and forks
and as many plated spoons complete
the necessary outfit for this drawer
but an annex should be provided in
one corner of the pantry or storeroom
closet close by. Here a few eIner-
gency rations that won't spoil should
be kept on hand-a tin box of biscuit
a jar or two of ported meats, one Of
anchovy a can of sardines, a pot Of
cheese, with little ale or bandry
added to give it ripeness and smooth
ness; a glass of jelly, a bottle Of
pickles and one of olives. Here, too,
may be tablets of chocolate and
bottle of grape or lime juice.
If this plan is followed, when the
boys elect to go swimming right after
school and take their supper, or the
young people propose a row on the
lake with picnic supper to follow,
there will always be something ready
to fall back on, even though both the
kitchen fire and cook are out and the
corner grocery is closed.
AS for the penic basket, which must
The Savannah morning news., 1903-07-12

instead of white for the piping, the eff
feet is pretty.
Another foulard is in a leaf brown
shade with relieving polka-dots in
green. 1t forms a good model for
general wear and illustrates the use
fulness of featherbone in summer
frocks which have not enough body to
keep their shape The plain satin which
forms the stock, shoulder straps, cuffs
and belt is piped with featherbone.
The skirt flares slightly around the
bottom, and is trimmed by two folds
of the silk, laid on six inches from the
bottom hem and apart, so as to sim
ulate hounces. The waist has the
curved French waist line and a full
pleated front This latter is trimmed
with triple bands of brown satin an
inch wide, stitched with green.
The standing collar is of the foul
ard, ornamented by a stitched band
and tab of the satin. Similarly stitch
ed bands conceal the shoulder seam
and form the belt. The plain sleeves
pun slightly over q moderately deep,
tight-fitting cuff, which is trimmed
with a stitched band.
A white cravat, with ends trimmed
with lace or embroidery, may be worn
with this costume to give a touch Of
contrasting color.
Small checks in black and white or
The Savannah morning news., 1903-07-12
BEAUTY DON'TS FOR
CULTIKATING A
SWEET VOICE

Don't neglect the cultivation of the
voice. The charm of a beautiful voice
fingers in the mind forever. 1t stirs the
heart; a beautiful face strikes only the
eye.
Don't think because it is a national
inheritance-this mixture of twang,
whine, affectation and acridness-that
it is impossible to remedy this one de-
feet of the American woman.
Don't lay the fault of dull habits
of speech at the door of our language,
nor charge it against our climate, that
helpless scapegoat of countless iniqui-
ties. Harsh tones are mainly caused by
defective methods of breathing.
Don't neglect daily breathing exer-
cises. Only the woman who knows how
TO breathe properly is going to get the
most out of her voice. Deep breathing
clears the voice and gives it fullness
and softness.
Don't breathe through the mouth,
The Savannah morning news., 1903-07-12

the skirt was lifted plain patent leather
pumps and silk stockings were re-
vealed. No true French elegante
wears embroideries on her ankles, but
the extremities of English and Amer
leans go as far as humming birds and
butterflies in natural tints.
LAS for the English hats-I wish
you could have seen them. They were
monstroslties beside the French ones.
These were adora bly, simple, a coarse
straw shape most often, with a wisp
OF velvet or ribbon and a flower some
where.
LAS for the flower, 1t may be a silk
rose as big as a saucer. or soft rib
bons may be used for fiat rosettes,
which suggest loose petalled roses.
They are placed, one at each side, at
the top of the big-crowned sailors,
and black velvet ribbon composes the
crown band and under-brim trimming.
The favorite tint for these rosettes is
a delicate azure.
Large hats with soft strings COM
ing from the edge of the brim and
tying under the chin are the top notch
The Savannah morning news., 1903-07-12

OF dress in America, so that the gar
ment of modish simplicity is a luxury.
Hats are usually too big and extrava-
giant in shape. and instead of the plain
silk parasol in effective coloring APP
proved by Parisiennes we are more
often given to checked, striped and
lowered sunshades not nearly so eff
fective Even the loose coats which
were designed chiefly for comforts
sake have caught the general infec-
tion, and now show too many cords.
lace insertions and silk bands.
The uses of these summer coats are
manifold, and if the model is not too
fussy, no more stylish garments could
be found A rich creation in dead
white pongee is incrusted with bands
| of Greek lace. Across the puff of the
| large sleeves a wide bias of black
| taffeta edged with a black and white
cord is an effective note. Dead white
null over silk composed the costume
designed to go with this particular
coat.
The taffera coats worn last summer
have received the snub of Fashion
Only to such coats as are realized in
pongee, cloth, lace and brlliantine
will she bow and even the brilliantine
ones get but cold nod. Sometimes a
cloth coat, especially If il is for coun-
try coaching. automobilng or yacht
ing is in a vivid color, coIal-red, tur-
quoise- blue and lilac being some of
the tints seen. Such coats commonly
match the tone of the gown worn
with them, and the accompanying hat
may express the same coloring.
The writer of a letter from Paris,
in concluding the important subject of
summer elegane, says:
You can't imagine the blaze of
color seen at Longchamps. At the
Grand Prix the sirens of the hour
Wore long red cloth coats over white
frocks in soft mulls. batistes, veilings
and lawns, that chung like wet rags
! to the figure. Some or these were
entirely without trimming, and when
The Savannah morning news., 1903-07-12
SAVANNAH MORNING NEWS: SUNDAY. JULY -. 1908

of coquetry in Paris. Wells are or a
very envelopng nature, and the fash
ion that Americans have of going
bare handed is considered inelegant.
THE French belle is forever gloved
as she is yelled when outdoors. and
she limits her street frock TO length
we would do well to follow Cut to
achieve a circular fall, very nearly as
long at the front and sides as at the
back. the set of these skirts is in
comparable. Whether sun-pleated all
around, tucked at the hips, or decked
with a shaped founce, the result is
always the same, the skirt clinging to
the figure with subtle gracefulness."
Some stunning little frocks, which
have plainly taken their inspiration
from the best French models, have
lately been shown by a good New
York shop. Made of spotted silk
muslin in pale blue, rose and yellow,
only tucking and ribbon belts and
stocks embellished the dainty finery.
The foundations were of lawn in
matching tints, and the price of each
costume was only $40.
The Savannah morning news., 1903-07-12

show in a foot border, describing in
some cases a delicate scrolling not
more than two inches wide
Many gowns are frequently elabor-
ately picturesque in line. For exam
pie, the bodice of one radiant butter
co.orej batiste owned elbow sleeves
in three flounces and a bust drapery
suggestive of Sir Joshua Reynalds'
famous portraits. Narrow black vel
vet ribbon continues to accentuate
tinted veilings. This decoration is
frequently being used on the bodice
in barrettes slipped through small steel
buckles.
If yelling of gauze linen is in the
popular champagne tint, 1t Is some
times put over maise, rose-colored or
turquoise blue silk. The outside in
such cases is always loose from the
lining, so that the effect is never hard
and is always changing.
For all the occasions of summer fou-
lards have taken new lease of life,
and they are seen in toilettes as simple
as they are magnificent
The new foulards bear little relation
TO the old. and their soft, satiny finish
renders them impervious to the creas-
ing which disfigured the previous hard
sorts. The patterning, too, is more
harmonious, and, instead Of the pre-
tentious figuring once seen, there are
now tiny pois, pin dots and skeleton
discs"-rings the size of a. 25-cent
piece.
They are often made with tucks and
q seam fagotting for trimming, and
since such costumes are entirely I'M
lined they are as light as a feather
Sometimes lace is used instead of IA
getting between the seams, and if a
black and white foulard is Of an elab-
crate nature, il may be literally fes-
tooned with delicate chantilly.
A radiant costume in black and
white satin foulard is trimmed with
shaped fiounces of black chantilly
These come only as far as the front
The Savannah morning news., 1903-07-12
SUMMER SILKS
FOR SUNDAY WEAR
ARE ALL THE RAGE
BY HARRIET HAWLEY.

A glance around any church or chap
ell of a Sunday morning discloses little
else but costumes of summer silk. Per-
haps this is because the airy ruffles
Of the sheerer muslins seem too friv-
olous for so devout an atmosphere.
Perhaps it is due to tradition of pre-
ceding generations of worshippers to
whom a stiff black silk was the only
suitable Sunday frock. So religiously
was it kept for this purpose that the
same dress might do duty for a half
score of years.
Milady of to-day is not so frugal
She has several silk dresses, even in
a single season. Yet in their making,
If she intends them for Sunday wear,
The Savannah morning news., 1903-07-12

other color combinations have been
popular for a season or two. II may
even be said that their popularity re-
appears annually. They are always
chic and furnish a good background
for bands or pipings in some solid
color.
But the hair-line silks are a little
more individual this SUMNER.
hair-lne black and white Louis
inc has a tight-fitting skirt, with a
deep, graduated rather scant fiounce.
The fullness over the hips is managed
by clusters of short, fine tucks. SINH
lar tucks form a heading for the
flounce.
The blouse waist has a full front
laid in fine tucks, which extend down
to a low bust line. Over these are ap-
pliqued inch-wide bands of white val
enciennes insertion, garnished with
small black worsted buttons. The
shoulder line is long, and the inser-
ton cover the upper half of the arm
hole seam, giving the effect of a deep
yoke.
The crush collar of the Louisine has
an extremely long point in the front
and is ornamented with the lace in
sertion. The sleeve is loose and puffs
over a narrow cuff. This is trimmed
with the insertion bands. and the in
sertion. applied in the form of a
square, ornaments the outer arm
above the elbow.
A black and white hair-line taffeta
is even more stylish. 1t embodies the
most salient features of the summer
misunderstanding the long shoulder
effect, plastron front, French-curved
waist line and sleeves putting over a
narrow cuff.
The skirt has an extremely deep,
full graduated hounce, running from
the knees in front almost to the belt
line in the back. The -fullness is af-
forded by a four-inch band of shirring
and is headed by a stitched band OF
the silk.
The fun blouse has a plain plastron
The Savannah morning news., 1903-07-12

she follows somewhat after the sim
pllcity of her grandmother. Not that
the frocks are plain. They are trim
med with lace. contrasting bands of
silk or satin, and hand-stitching and
embroidery But they are for the
most part devoid of the extravaganza
which rules the other summer crea-
lions.
Many of these summer silks are
modelled after the linen shirt waist
suits. They are suitable for shopping
or travelling as well as church, and yet
possess certain quiet elegance
The foulards are among the most
popular of the summer silks. The
polka dot effects are both neat and
stylish, and can be fashioned with very
little trimming.
A black satin fou1ard that has
white polka DOT has pipings of white
satin. The skirt has the fashiona bic
"Sorosis' flare. 1t is laid in fine tucks
over the hips. The deep Spanish
tiounce. which accentuates the fare
around the bottom. is headed by
line of piping. A narrow fold of the
silk, also headed by piping, trims the
bottom Of the flounce. The blouse is
full and extremely plain. The silk
fits snugly over the chest with the aid
of clusters of wide pleats, which are
laid from the shoulder line down to
the bust line. Below this the fullness
escapes from the slightly pouched
front
The standing collar is extended into
odd shaped bishop tabs, piped with
white Similar tabs conceal the shout
der seams and are stitched down over
the cap of the sleeve. Each sleeve
has a plain cap. six inches deep, fin
ished off by piped band, which runs
around the arm. Below this il falls IN
a moderate puff over a narrow cuff
Sheer white turnover collars and
cuffs look well on this costume If
red, bright green or pale blue are used
The Savannah morning news., 1903-07-12

manner, vivacity, style or wit can com.
pensate for a poor voice.
Cupid hath not in all his culver
choice,
An arrow for the heart like a sweet
voice."
The Savannah morning news., 1903-07-12

Continued on Page Twenty-e
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1903-08-11
PERSONAL AND RncIAr.

Mr. and Mrs. LAUDER and daughter Florence left
last evening for New York.
Mrs: James Collins has returned from a visit
with friends on the Pacific coast.
Mrs. Z. 2. Helix and Miss Rose Helix arc
spending few days at Isle Royale.
Mr.. and Mrs. N. X. Henderson are visiting IN
New York. Philadelphia and Montreal.
Mr.. and Mrs. Justus Sprague left last eve.
ming for an extended visit in California
The Wilmot baseball team will give lawn
social tomorrow evening at 2019 Minnehaha ave.
nue.. ~ -
Mrs. W. D. Brooks Of Kansas City ia VISITING
Mrs C. Fl. Taylor, 9O6 Fifteenth avenue s, and
other friends. ~ NA0
morning for Omaha and the Black Hills, to be
gone ten days. oe
Mr. and Mrs. George s. johnson will ,eave
Thursday to spend six weeks travelling thru the
west as far as Los Angeles. - >
Mrs. P. A. Hinkle left Sunday evan,n, r. =.
tend the stockholders meeting Of the Bir Five
Mining company in Denver, Col. ~
The ladies Of Bethel new church will p,va, ~
lawn on Seventeenth avenue and THIRTY f,rat
street. : -" - ''' D''
~ Mrs. J; D: Ogden and daughters, Avis ane
tnrned OF aft sais avenue s have
and relatives in Ackley, Iowa
MIR; and Mrs Thomas Lesher, who have beer
travelling thru Alaska since their wedding six
months mon ego, are visiting Mrs. Lesher's mother
Mrs Paris Of the Hennepin flats.
Miss Mollie Rice, 2o14 Sixteenth avenn. 8
has gone to New Albion Iowa. to visit he,
brothers. Professor O. s. Rice and e. s. Rice
She will return in about three weeks.
Olive J. Gilmore, grand chief Of the Rathbon.
Sisters, will give another euchre party IN ~
X. P. hall on First avenue and Fifth street sc
Tomorrow afternoon. The proceeds will go +.
the grand temple. e ~
Northwestern people Mt New York hotels are
Observation-Disclosures, G.. r. jackson: 81
Denis, Miss NJ. Harrington, Miss NJ. NJ. Boiin
Fifth Avenue. Mrs. L. c.. Storms; Holland, T
J. II. Barnes. 'sE.-... >