The daily morning journal and courier., 1903-11-24
SANTIAGO.
LITE IN THE CHILEAN CAPT.
 TAI.
Quaint Sights in Q Far Away Southern

Special Correspondence of the Journal
 and Courier)
 Santiago de Chilli, October 15, 1903.
 On sightseeing expedition in Chili's capital one cannot do better than begin with the central square, named La Pla- ga de Ia Independencia; because from it all things radiate, even the tramway lines and hackney coaches, and in the streets immediately surrounding 1t are found the principal institutions. reli- gious, social and political. It is an im- posing place, with handsome marble fountain in the middle, and environed by beautiful garden containing trees, flowers, statues, stone-paved walks and marble benches. Nearly all the west side of this great plaza is occupied by the cathedral, which is said to be the largest in South America, as 1t is cer- tain1y one of the oldest. Originally erected by the conqueror, Pedro de Val divia, it has been several times partial ly destroyed by earthquakes, and was reconstructed on it's present plan by Garcia de Mendoza, somewhere about the year 1850; or rather, it was carried as near to completion as seems to be consistent with local principals of eeon- omy. It has never been quite finished, and probably never will be, because like the licensed beggars of these south ern icountries-its imperfections are a fruitful source of revenue. Though millions of dollars have been collected from pious parishioners-almost enough to veneer the whole vast pile with coating of gold-there is still a stand ing call for funds to finish the Cathe- dral;" and year after year, as genera tions come and go contribution box, posted in conspicuous position and frequently handed around, presents it's gaping mouth like a perpetual mendi- cant crying, "GiveI give!"
 The cathedral is large enough to shelter fourteen thousand people, yet has no striking feature except that of size. It is built of coarse kind of porphyry, with a single tower of rough brick, and a tall iron cross over the main entrance. Though looking like a monument of solidity, it's earthquake cracked walls have long been con- dIIu LLG GlIlHSiS tCpG3LCuiy warned that another slightest terrimote may tumble it down about their ears.
 No Chilianr-high or low, whether clad in scanty rags or f1guratively robed in royal purple-ever passes the beloved cathedral, (or any other church, for that matter), without lifting the hat, making the sign of the cross or mutter- ing an Ave Marie. This popular defer ence to religious shrines is shown on every occasion. In the front wall of one of Santiago's handsomest resi- dences, near the main entrance, is a ! deep niche, in which stands an image of the Blessed Virgin, clothed in sky blue, with a pink satin mantle embroi- dered with gold and star-bespangled, crowned with halo of gas jets. An 1 iron grating protects the figure from the street; but every day bouquets and wreaths of flowers, rich gifts and wid- oW's mites, and votive offerings of va rious sorts are showered upon 1t by people in bodily or mental distress, who believe that trustful appeals to the Holy Mother will bring speedy mitiga- 1 ton of their infirmities. 2 The story is l that some years ago the senora of the casa, lady of wealth, being very i'll, made VOW to the Virgin that if her health was restored she would show her gratitude in this manner; and there stands the more and more venerated image, an effective illustration of. the power of prayer and the senora's piety. It is said that many miraculous faith cures have resulted-and all good San tiagoans lift their hats and cross themselves in passing by.
 A prettfer custom among these ex- ceedingly polite people is that of doff- ing the hat at sight of a funeral pro- cession. The funeral pageant is not likely to be particularly solemn, as there is no black about the hearse, nor weeping women following it-only a few men, and the horses being driven full speed as if at race; but to see every body in the street, in the horse cars, in their carriages, on the pavement or in their balconies, paying a last token of courtesy to the passing stranger who is on the way to his long home, robs grim death of some of its gloom.
 Besides being the seat of government, the legislature and the courts of law, Santiago is an Arch Bishops See, and is therefore blessed with numerous churches and monastic institutions. Among the finest are those of San Au- gustin, erected in the year 1894; La Merced, Santa Domingo and San Fran cisco-all built nearly three centuries ago; the San Augustine Nunnery, founded in 1576, the Carmen Alto, or Church of the Carmelite Nunnery, an elegant little gothic structure where most of the fashionable weddings take place; the stately church of the Re- formed Dominicans, rich in marble mo- noIithic columns; the church which was erected about fifty years ago to the memory of Pedro Valdivio, the city's founder, next to the house in which he is reputed to have lived; and last, but long ways from least, the elegant Recoleta, now nearly compile ted at enormous expense, and one of the most magnificent structures I have ever seen. It contains vast amount of inl- ported marble, in pillars, walls and al- tars, rich carvings, and costly, brand- new paintings; but is by far too new to be impressive and is entirely wanting in "dim religious light" and that smell of mold and martry's bones and the ghosts of incense burned years ago, not to mention the "odor of sanctity" that pervades old sanctuaries where, long