The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-03-08
AMERICAS CRITICISED COOKS.
WOMEy IN PART TO BLAME FOR
EXISTING CONDITIONS.

Good Work Of the Cookins Classes
Prof. Lorenz in an address delivered In
Vienna after his visit here declared America
TO be a magnificent country inhabited by
noble people, but in summing up his views
OF American women he Offset his admira.
tiol OF tn sir ms itL attributes and intel
lsotull gifts by stating that they cannot
cook.
This is becoming a familiar charge
against the typical American woman
clergymen even n aking her alleged &C.
fects in this respect the subject Of SER
mons Of late and stating that much OF the
intemperance among workingmen who
frequent saloons IL caused by bad cooking
at home
And not only docs the American woman
come In for criticism In this RESP ect, but the
nation IL accused quite frequently OF lack
ing in epic lreln taste and proper knowl-
edge of matters gastronomic. II was said
that on the occasion OF Prince Henry g
visit TO the country he ard the members
OF his party were made quite i'll by the raw
state In which wild ducks were served
at the various banquets given in his honor.
In spite OF the fact that the best French
chefs In America prepared the feasts to
which he was hidden.
But while French chefs here frequently say
that no matter what their own opinions are
they mCs coox to plelse those whom they
serve il may seem rather odd that Ameri-
can cookery should be 40 generally con-
denned by visitors from abroad. II is
quite true that the modern American woman
does not devote herself to the stud OF
kitchen lore in these days when society,
charitable organizations and athletics take
- m iol OF hsr tins; bat the national cook
ing methods, particularly those OF the
5)uth. have been 80 generously praised
IN the past ard the pies ard pudd'ngs OF
New En- q and have giined such fame that
it m seem peculiar that American gas
tronomic achievements should rank so low.
A famous cooking teacher who numbers
many fashionable women among her pupils
when asked about the decline OF cookery
~ fen!nine accom- .)lishlnsnt in this
country said:
Il do not think that the modern American
woman will ever take to cooking as en-
Enthusiastically as the women abroad do
for the reason that che is less domestic In
her nature She 10 busy with social mat
tiers her clubs. her charities and her fads
and does not take any practical interest
IN gastronomy because she does not as
vet realize It's Importance.
But it is my opinion that there will be
a revolution in this matter and that within
the next ten or twelve years, women gain
ing in breadth and perception through
their cults Of the present will fully APP
preciate the importance and the seriousness
Of the cooking question, which IL at present
driving families from homes 10 apart
ment hotels.
There is an old saying that cooks are
DO. n, not made, and there is much truth IN
it. That is 10 say there Is sort OF instinct
about IL and the art must be grasped
rather than acquired laboriously.
THE study Of the hygiene OF foods 10
sonnet hing apart from the actual practical
making OF dish The American glrl
Just now Ia acquiring thorough knowledge
at all the oest colleges and schools and by
degrees this will awaken more thorough
interest in the lost art OF cooking, which Is
now 80 generally reiegated 10 the kitchen
goddess
so much about what she eats as do the
women Of other nations and this Is the
real secret of her pIescnt indifi Ell. nee TO
the subject The women OF England.
france and Russia are epicures like the men
and understand the importance OF foods
and their preparations far more thoroughly
than the women Of this country.
You may take the noted foreign actresses
and opera singers and you will find that
most OF them travel with a servant who
personally cooks or else superintends the
preparation OF meals. some OF these
women carry alb u cooking lamps and
dishes. and a private stock OF teas, cofees
and wines that may not be procurable
in this country.
AN American woman travelling abroad
will astound her hotelkeeper by the number
~ her trunks All the an1unt OF toilet
WIRES All oolrts1l1r,s tint she mty
deem necessary, but she never has chafnR
dish or spirit lamp.
american women are surrassing the
women Of other countries in fashion, beauty
and charm to such an extent that II NAV be
argued that they can afford to dispense
with an education in cookery, hut think
the American woman is becoming too
intelligent TO disregard the gradual break
ing mp OF homes In cities.
The college classes are all deepiy In
,erested In cookery. the hygiene. the prac-
teal work and the import ance Of this bran b
81 domestic science and they read pspeTs
in which they set forth views that deal
rirh'lv with the subject
The solrtnsn, house 10 growth that
HIS ~eslltsd from the troubled servant
quest ion which IL largely q oues'ior q
cookery. ie' tie many apartment houses
with restaurants attached are wretchscly
INADEQUATE ~ their dinirg room service
aud their cuisine althourh he Tss' q the
ho,,-@ NAV b@ p@rfec'lv managed
The trouble IL the lack - inisres, that
women take IN tho item ~ living Men
can 20 10 the club and IA runiEe r..s' aurant'
and grOvl az ia. cindiii0n that csbi,
hut woman r-fuses to iaie uIon hsisslf
the re-po sibility 81 urtsrsiaI Ding the
ina''sr except Ia a guu-riclal way
Tho women with much "a ai'ord 10
spciAlly Nslooms- q rfl"ass from the houe
rsss' ons 'biliiies that she o. AT q ho'r
and even though she NAV have several
hOncs 80 xill live in hoi-ls mast ~ tie
ysaf On oosan linsrs and yac,ts
bai thais Il 0ns cllai4ss IN American
lifs which Sill fcfsH hs luhusBo. poo
this suLles ahd ihHi " he gfoy ~ Il
cstniry huusas and The foHrp.ss fof csunif,
NE ihsi AmsIioahs have lsFun a. sthhai
stAfe in the oouutTg means tnifs lrisufs
ahd f.s ~ pleasure a. ths Nay q ihraifes
iHd al ~ lufe- q ciig r. h.gh pa, olive
Continual dlfas'ns, lsis iuiiis. ah sSlv
~ assb shd Consequent dssisf.la
"fHI"' lniis iis eih'f plsss,iIs -
no,sntIg ! 10 a. II ~ shisusn onr nIf
hsss . s.rod uiaf AId . ls,.ssAasf.d -
slss - alls io uf dssisks 10 n,Al4s Ssn .sili
4 slrh sitsis hisills anhY
A syiaa shh ss.slil ~ lssH disl 60
osn aisasF hsts rlaf 49, DsssAssl -