The Republican journal., 1903-07-16

un1e DOunO IN clOtQ. AuuISSS Dl N. v.
Pierce, Buffalo, N. Y.
One should leave Santa Rosa by the
first glimmer of dawn, for there are at
least twenty-four miles OF lndiscribably
bad roads to be traversed on horse or
mule back. and the highest ridge in all
the journey to 9e crossed-La Rava-
where winds are strongest and storms
are lncessant. This first day is by far
the hardest of the entire trip, as much
because one is not yet used to it as be-
cause the road is incomparably worse;
and at all hazards one must reach
Aguas CaHenteS before night fall. To
the right OF a lofty Snow-clad mountain
named Nilacanota one follows for some
miles and finally fordS small stream,
which seems to rise il one of the hot
springs 50 numerous in the locality and
which is interesting because PeruvianS
believe it to be the mother-spring of
the great Amazon river system. The
little stream which here takes the name
of the nearby mountain, Is known far
ther on As the Chaica and afterwards
as the Urubanda Many miles farther
northward having gained much
strength and volume, it JOINS the Rio
TaEdo and their united waters form
the famous Ucadeh, the largest of
Peru's tributaries to the Amazon.
The second night out one is booked
to sleep at the village of LirUain, aside
of only eighteen miles through charm
ing scenery There is a possible draw
back, however, i'll the Licuain river,
which must be forded several times and
Is likely % be rather high. There is a
road Oh the left of the river, but trav-
elers are warned to take to the water
instead. tor there are vast SWamps on
that side, with qulcksands treacherous
enough to engulf an army; and besides,
one must pass through the untenced
hacienda of Antacucca which Is cele-
brated far and near for its wild cat
tie. Nobody goes over that dangerous
road if lie can possibly avoid it, there
being 10 place Of refuge should he be
attacked by the bulls. Fancy party
of peaceable United States tourists,
including two women, riding quietly
along Oh mule-back when herd of
wild cattle come charging full tilt upon
them and not wall or tree or bush to
hide behind. In the vicinity of the hot
springs there are acres of plump mush-
rooms, and no passer by whose palate
has been properly educated will fail to
secure a supply for his evening meal,
whether he takes it at the tambO or as
we did, in the hospitable home of Don
Pablo Mejias.
The third night one sleeps at ''Tinta"
ID hacienda owned by ane educated
Italian. Senor Don Francisco Maspiot-
ia, who is sure to give the pilgrim a
hearty welcome. The road thereto lies
through an ancient Indian village call
ed Raccha, built within the crater of an
extinct volcano. Among other curios-
tiles it contains remarkable wall,
which is said to be the remains of
palace built by the eldest son of Tupac
Yupangui, who revolted against his
royal father and in this stronghold
maintained his independence. Near it
is one OF tie many small round towers
so frequently found in this part of
Peru, which are believed to have been
astronomical eobservatories, wherein
the Incas determined the meridian pas
sage of the sun.
On the fourth day one may take a
leisurely iaunt of only fifteen miles to
Checacute, where he will be made to
feel quite at home by Col. Martin AL
barez, who is regular king in his little
world, a large landed proprietor, men,
Der of Congress, and wealthy wool
merchant. There are yet forty miles
to Cuzco, and rapid rider could ac-
complish that distance i'll one day; but
what is the use of tiring ones self,
it is so much more comfortable to take
things easily? One would better go only
half way, say to Quiguijana though
it is miserable little hamlet with
but one redeeming feature-a remark
able old bridge. Unless one has a let
ter to the village Cure and that itin-
Grant individual happens, by rare good
fortune, to be at home, the night must
be passed among the bugs and other
pests of a wretched post-house. Next
morning one is glad to take an early
start for Huaroc, twelve miles away,
and even to forego breakfast until he
reaches the casa of the local magnate,
who rejoices under the high-sounding
name of Senor Don Fructuosa Egulie-
tas. We went out of the way few
miles to view the little lake called Ur-