davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1903-01-14
The Trail OF the Skirt.

History Is silent regarding Adams
views on feminine garments, but ever
since the coming of Ewes first daugh-
ters circumstantial evidence has been
forthcoming to show that dress has
loomed large in the thoughts and de-
sires Of the weaker sex, and has not,
indeed, been without its influence in di-
recting the evolution of mere man."
says The Hospital. "And even today
clothes, as agents for protection,
adornment and topic of conversation,
cannot be considered as discarded. In
deed, the subject is one which calls for
intimate and expert study, and such
bodies as the Rational Dress associa-
tion and the Healthy and Artistic
Dress union devote themselves to re-
search, with results which are often
surprising II not actually of scientific
value. Hygienically speaking, the skirt
as now prevailing stands guilty, or
rather should hang condemned, Of
many sins. 1t fetters free movement,
impedes progress, interferes with ac-
tive exercise, produces needless fatigue,
predisposes to accidents, limits the use
Of the hand. troubles the mind, is in
constant danger Of entanglements, col
lects dust, dirt and bacilli galore, and
Is oftentimes unduly expensive. Work
ers find it heavy, hampering, harmful,
and as all must admit, it readily be-
comes filthy and unhealthy. We have
no wish to suggest Punishment for the
skirt, but since the participation Of
women in sports and physical exer-
cises OF various kinds has clearly dem
onstrated the possibility of combining
hygenic requirements with artistic ef-
fects, we venture to advocate a more
general adoption of rational skirts.
But on the subject of skirts woman is
mistress Of the situation.
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1903-01-14

Chains made from all sorts, hues and
kinds of beads are worn this season.
In fact, the chain fad is one of the
pronounced fancies of the moment and
has led clever, industriously inclined
young women to try their skill in the
fashioning of these modish accessories
for indoor and outdoor costumes. In
consequence some exceedingly artis-
tic and original designs have been
evolved by these ingenious amateurs.
Muff chains, purse chains. necklaces
and a host of other useful and orna-
mental varieties of chains represent
the seasons output as seen in the shops
and made at home. The tendency
toward things Oriental and semi-Ori-
entail, particularly in decorative way,
has stimulated interest in the bead
fad" for gaily colored chains are in
variably worn by the color loving ORR
entail.
A bright young woman is engaged
in designing and making chains of
beads, following out general color
schemes and arrangements of Oriental
character. She finds the occupation a
paying one. The beads are of coral,
malachite, crystal, jet. amber. pearl,
turquoise and other semi-precious
stones, the pearls being on the mother
Of pearl order. The turquoise chains
are of fine beads, three strings being
braided together.
A chain of deep green beads made
by this woman has several ragged cor
al beads inserted at intervals. A coral
chain Of the round variety set in be.
tween the coral ones. A string Of am
ber beads alternates with jet beads
while another chain, also Of amber
has several jet beads placed near the
clasp. A handsome turquoise string is
combined with crystal and pearl beads.
Silver and gold beads are also used in
connection with the various stone
beads while crystal and jet beads are
most effectively blended in some of the
handsomest of the new long chains
Brooklyn Eagle.
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1903-01-14

While the general opinion of those
supposed to be authorities on the mat
ter has been that the habit of drinking
water at meals is deleterious one, it
is now stated, according to recent in
vestigations, that little water, If not
too cold, is beneficial, as 1t assists in
tho digestion of food. A too copious
supply Of water dilutes tho gastric
Juice. and II too cold lowers the tenn
perature Of the stomach below normal,
thus impairing digestion. If, however,
water is taken In limited quantities
the gastric juice on food will be wash
ed aside. thereby facilitating absorp-
tion. By this means the undigested
food is laid bare and is more suscepti.
BILE to further action of the gastric
juice. During the period OF rest
phlegm, being very tenacious, pre-
vents the free flow of gastric juice for
some time, hence delays digestion. A
drink of water before meals is recon-
mended because 1t loosens and
washes away this deposit of mucus,
thereby permitting the gastric juice
to attack the food as 1t enters the
stomach.
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1903-01-14
New Chinese Minister.

Although the diplomatic circles at
Washington lost treasure in WI
Ting-Fang, the late Chinese Minister.
his place is likely to be well filed
by his successor. Sir Liang-Cheng.
That distinguished Oriental will soon
marry the daughter of Yu-Keng, the
Chinese Minister at Paris. The we'd
ding will take place at Peking before
the Minister leaves for Washington.
arriving early in January. Sir Liangs
fiancee Is described as a perfect type
of Celestial beauty and as unusually
accomplished. She is 22 years old and
has lived for the last three years at
her fathers legation, being almost as
we'll known in Partisan society as
Madame WI was in Washington.
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1903-01-14

II your complexion is poor you prob
ably need more outdoor exercise. Spend
two hours in the oren air daily, II
possible, walking or running; take a
Turkish bath once in six weeks. II 1t
is not taxing your purse too heavily,
and once a week give your face a
soaking in very warm water and soap.
While it is still warm rub in almond
oil. wiping off traces of the oil with
a fire handkerchief after the rubbing
or massaging is finished. Take a glass
of cold water before breakfast and the
last thing at night. Eat all the fruit
you can get and leave bon-bons, cakes
and pastries severly alone.-New York
News.
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1903-01-14
Waterproof Briquettes.

Consul B. II. Warner reports from
Leipzig: All briquettes which have
hitherto been manufactured by means
of soluble cements (such as dextrin
molasses. hxiviated cellulose, oxidized
lignine, resignate of ammonia, etc.
dissolve in water. Richard Book, an
engineer of Merseburg. province of
Saxony. has found method for max
ing briquette which are entirely water
proof. He heats the finished briquettes
until the cement is wholly or partly
carbonized. which makes them indis-
soluble. In case the ignition temper
ature Of the cement is likely to be at
tanned the heating must take place in
an alright case or by means of hot
gases.
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1903-01-14
EXPENSIVE AUToMoslLiNG.
Owning a Horseless Carriage Is Not a
Poor Mans Sport.

II mans horse should cost more
for veterinary fees that for oats. that
man would begin to scratch his head
and wonder If he wouldn't better sell
the animal and charter a special train
or some other cheaper mode of travel,
particularly If oats were expensive,
and the horses original cost had been
several thousand dollars, not to men
tion the slight fact that the horse was
given to periodical runnings away,
adding heavy damages to his owners
liabilities. And IL in these little ses-
sions of capering over the PROSTATE
heads of a frightened populace he
should kill or main for life few citi-
zens, there naturally would be still
greater doubt in the owners mind as
to the advisability of keeping so trou-
blesomo carrier. Yet that is the pre-
else situation of the fast speed auto
mobilist. The wear and tear on the
tires Of heavy automobile Is reck-
oned by experts to be equal to four or
five cents per mile, which is more than
the fuel to run 1t costs. Then tho
fines for exceeding the speed limit
mus be added to the damages for ac-
cidents, caused by runaways of fright
ened horses, or, worse still. the runa-
ways and explosions of the machines
themselves. Taken altogether, it would
seem to an onlooker who hadn't yet
caught autocitls that Pucks' hill-old
exclamation might be apropos-"What
fools these mortals bel"
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1903-01-14
The Kaiserin in Training.

The Kaiserin is justly proud IL her
beautiful figure She Is slender and
most graceful; her figure is her great
est beauty-one might say her only
beauty. 1t has been a labor to bring
bbout this desirable state of things,
and 1t has taken some time, for the
kaiserin was inclined to be decidedly
stout some years ago. Her Majesty
had horror of fat, and took herself
Bternly in hand.
With the aid Of competent medi-
cal man, and with strong will, she set
to work at Abbazia to counteract her
tendency to corpulency, and 1t was
Just In time. The cure worked rapidly,
as every one remembers, but, unfor-
tunately. Her Majesty overdid 1t, and
her hair turned gray-later on to
snowy white. The Kaiser did not like
that, but as nothing could be done, he
consoled himself with the fact that his
wife's face had remained young and
Ghe had obtained q perfect figure.
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1903-01-14

when the yoke is added and the waist
made high at the neck.
The waist consists of fitted lining,
that closes at the centre front, the
front, back and the box-pleated fall.
The front proper is simply gathered
and with 1t the pleated falls close Mt
the under-arm seam. The back Is laid
in box pleats that are graduated In
width to give tapering effect. The
short sleeves are gracefully draped and
the shrred shoulders give the desired
continuous line with the neck. The
long sleeves include snug upper por-
tions and deep cuffs that match the
yoke, with full dropping puffs between
that form elbow sleeves when the
lower portions are omitted.
The quantity of material required
for the medium size is for waist two
yards eighteen inches wide, with three
and three-quarter yards Of lace for fall
and sleeves; or three and one-quarter
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1903-01-14
THE BAKERS OVEN.
How Bakers Themselves Determine
II by Mere Touch of Hand.

IL by Mere Touch Of Hand.
Bakers have a curious way of tell
ing just what the temperature Of the
oven is" said a downtown baker who
has been in the business for more
than a quarter of a century, "and they
can tell, too, with almost marvellous
accuracy. You take a man who Is
an expert In the business, and he can
tell what the temperature Of the
oven is by simply touching the ham
die of the oven door. In nine cases
out of ten he will not miss it the frac-
tion of degree. Bakers have other
ways, of course, Of testing the heat
of the oven. For instance, when bak-
ing bread they sometimes throw
piece Of white paper into the oven,
and II 1t turns brown the oven Is at
the proper temperature. or, when bak-
ing other things, they will throw
little cornmeal or flour into the oven
in order to test the heat. But the
bakers fingers are the best gauge and
when you come to think Of the differ
ent temperatures required in baking
different things, 1t is no small achieve
ment to even approximate the heat
of the oven by touching the handle
of the oven door. Bakers figure that
during the rising time of loaf of
bread, after it has been placed in the
oven, 1t ought to be In temperature
of 75 degrees Fahrenheit. During the
baking process, in order to cook the
starch, expand the carbonic acid gas.
air and steam, and drive of the al
cohol, the inside of the loaf must reg
lister at least 220 degrees. In baking
rolls, buns, scones, tea biscuits, drop
cakes, fancy cakes, New Years cakes,
mullins, puff cakes and things OF that
sort, the oven must show a heat OF
450 degrees higher. When the oven
is at 400 degrees, 1t Is fit for cream
puffs, sugar cake, queen cakes, rock
cakes, jumbles, lady fingers, rough and
ready jelly rolls. At $50 degrees wine
cakes, cup cakes. ginger nuts and
snaps, pies. ginger bread, spice cakes.
such as raisin. currant, citron, pound,
bride and so on, may be baked. II re-
quires still lower temperature to
bake wedding cakes. kisses. anise
drops and things In this class. But
whatever temperature the old baker
wants, he can tell when he has 1t by
simply touching the handle Of the
oven door"
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1903-01-14
The Power of Liquid Hydrogen.

Every gaseous substance now defin-
itely known 20 the chemist, with the
single exception Of helium, may be sol
idified with the aid of the low tempera-
ture furnished by liquid hydrogen.
Professor Dewur, OF London, to whom
the world is indebted for nearly all the
discoveries of this kind. expects to sue
ceed In solidifying even helium, and Is
now making series of experiments
to that end at the Royal institution.
Liquid hydrogen has temperature of
436 degrees below zero.
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1903-01-14
L.AT TEST

seven-eighth yards twenty-seven inches
wide, or two and three-elghth yards
forty-four inches wide.
Circular skirts made with circular
flounces that provide flare at the lower
portion are much in demand and suit
some figures and materials better than
any other sort The smart model Illus
trated Is shown In ult-colored can
vas and Is trimmed with folds of silk
stitched on with corticelli silk, but
all skirting and suit materials are ap-
proprlnte and the trimming can be
varied in any way that may be pre-
ferred.
The quantity Of material required for
the medium size Is seven and a half
yards twenty-sevpn inches wide, FIVE
yards forty-four inches wide or four
and half yards iifty-two inches wide.
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1903-01-14
Flat Hats ropuIar,

Just now the tendency is to wear
hats more off the face. showing con.
siderable amount of forehead and Golf
fure The desired effect Is easily ar
rived nj by means OF n high bandeau.
Otherwise the hats are fiat. and the
most chic are those with very little
trimming. The best headgenr is that
which is difficult of achievement, and
the hats with little decoration must
be perfect in curve. with clear. bold
outllnes-in fact. exact copies of the
old masters. AIilllners, as n class, are
most artistic, rs may he gathered from
the fact that Gainsborough and Rom
ncy hats always hold their own.
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1903-01-14

Plaid silk petticoats are much in
favor.
For children the fashionable furs
are white fox, ermine and chinchilla.
Panne cloth is enjoying an unprece-
dented amount of fashionable favor.
Wool lace dyed to match is exten.
sively used for trimming wool gowns.
In white taffeta is a beautiful petit.
coat with coffe tinted lace insertion
and Van Dyke points of the same lace
over chiffon frills.
Black pearls and Renaissance scrool
work figure in all the beautiful en-
broideries which are an essential part
of the dress of today.
A new set Of furs in baby lamb con.
sists OF long fiat stole, with big
Frenchy muff lined with ermine and
trimmed with mink tails. a
Incrustations OF Irish guipure and
bands Of mink fur lend an effective
touch to costume of white panne
just completed for a dubutante.
One of the prettiest of the new white
wash waists is fashioned of heavy can.
vas cheviot, with embroidery in con-
yentional patterns in pastel shades.
On the kimona order is a graceful
and pretty negligee of delicate blue
china silk showing insertions of ecru
lace and finished with deep collar OF
white liberty silk.
A lovely coat for little girl is Of
cloth in a deep shade of cream and
yoke and collar appliqued with velvet
and chenille in pastel shades The but
tons are of pearl and gold.
A fieece-lined mercerized cotton
shirt waist in which the color tone Is
charming blending of green and blue
is trimmed with big green buttons Of
enamel and silver deposit.
For evening wear princess slips Of
silk gauze triot are new and effective.
These slips come In all the pastel
shades and in various sizes and are
worn beneath the gowns of chiffon and
point d'esprit so much in vogue.
Evening coats for young girls are a
feature OF the seasons fashions. They
are of zibeline cloth in various color.
ings and trimmed with braid. One in a
rich red shade is trimmed with white
silk braid, edged with black. These
coats are kimona shaped, with very
full sleeves, and lined with white bro
cade.
A novelty in fur coats is a jacket
formed of marten tails Joined by a
lace insertion on the herring hone or.
der. The lining is OF white satin, while
down the front is jabot of gray chif
fon frillings. A large string colored
lace collar covers the shoulders and
the sleeves suggest large puffs drawn
INTO the arms. where deep ruftie OF
the lace conceals an undersleeye Of sat
in fitted closely at the wrist.
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1903-01-14
Slept SoundIy.

Paul Kruger, In his memoirs, tells
the story of a secretary whom he
punished for being drunk by tying
him to a wagon wheel. During the
night 5000 Kafilrs and about 1000
Zulus attacked the Boer camp and
were not driven on till daylight. The
secretary slept SO souhdly that he
noticed nothing Of the fight. and the
next day. when he at last awoke. he
looked ground In astonishment and
asked: Have you people been nght-
Ing during the night?"
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1903-01-14
Girl,s Tam O,shantcr Cans.

Tam O'Shanter caps are exceedingly
becoming to little girls and are much
worn for school, play and the like.
These excellent models show the latest
de1igns and are suited to cloth, camel's s
hair, z!del!ne, velveteen and all the
fabrics used for caps. AS shown, how
ever. the plain cap is made Of gray
camel's hair felt, the full gathered one
of fancy woolen plaid.
The plain cap consists of round
crown that Is pleated at the edge and
Joined to the band that fits the head
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1903-01-14

New York City.-Evcnlng waists
made with deep box-pleated falls are
exceedingly smart and generally be-
coming. This very attractive May
Manton model is suited TO all the sea-
sons soft, pliable fabrics. but. ms
shown, is of cream Lierre net and lace
with bands of black velvet and drop
ornaments Of pearls. The draped
sleeves make feature and are grace.
ful In the extreme, but can be omitted
and the elbow or full length ones
shown in the small sketch substituted
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1903-01-14
MRS. M. j. BRINK
FIRST STAGE OF CATARRH.
A Serious Mistake Which Thou
sands Are Making.

The first stage of catarrh is what is
commonly known rs Catching cold" 1t
may be in the head, nose, throat or lungs.
Its beginning is sometimes so severe as to
cause a chill and considerable fever, or it
may be so slight as to not hinder person
from his usual business. In perhaps a
majority Of cases little or no attention
is paid to the first stage of catarrh, and
hence it is that nearly one-half of the peo-
pie have chronic catarrh in some form.
To neglect a cold is to invite chronic
catarrh. As soon as any one discovers
the first symptoms. of catching cold he
should at once begin the use of Peruna
according to directions on the bottle,
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1903-01-14
BLOUSE WAIST AND CIRCULAR SKIRT.

comfortably, the left side being held
by rosette and two quills.
The full cap is gathered up closely
at the centre and held by large fiat
round button that forms the crown,
then gathered at the outer edge and
Joined to the band. which Is finished
with fiat bow of black velvet ribbon.
The quantity Of material required
for the medium size is for plain cap
five-eighths of yard in any width; for
full cap seven-eighths Of yard twen-
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1903-01-14
MISS. SARA McGAHAN.

OF what PERUNA could do, decided to
try a bottle, and you can imagine how
glad | felt when it began to relieve me
in a very short time. In less than two
weeks | was completely cured."-Sibyl A.
Hadley.
Miss Sarah McGahan, No. 1877 Sd street,
Albany, N. Y, writes:
"a few months ago I suffered with a
severe attack OF influenza, which nothing
seemed to relieve. My hearing became
bad, my eyes became irritated and feverish.
Nothing seemed right and nothing I ate
tasted good. | took PERUNA and within
two. weeks l was perfectly well."-Sarah
McGahan.
II you do not derive prompt and salts
factory results from the use Of Peruna
write at once to DR.. Hartman, giving a
full statement of your case, and he will be
glad to give you his valuable advice gratis.
Address DIR. Hartman, President OF The
Hartman Sanitarium Columbus, o,
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1903-01-14
Takes No Food But Milk.

Four quarts Of milk daily. or there
abouts, for 20 years has been the sole
diet of Thomas r. Laubach, of Hazel
ton, Pa. Two decades ago Mr.. Lau-
bach, being then 81 years old. was in
very bad health, and his physicians
gave up his case. Then he decided to
doctor himself and has done SO ever
since, absolutely confining his diet to
milk. Now he Is one of the healthiest
and soundest men in town.
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1903-01-14
The Wheat Area.

The statistician of the Department
of Agriculture estimates the newly
seeded area of winter wheat at about
34.000,000 acres. an increase OF ST. per
cent, upon the area estimated to have
been sown in the fall of 1901. The
condition Of winter wheat ON Decem-
per was s9.7 as compared with s6.7
In 1901. S7.l In 1900 and a nine.year
average OF 91.4.
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1903-01-14
A Pleasant idea.

know of lady who on her 18TH
birthday, few weeks ago. received
80 letters, from as many friends, and
how she did enjoy them! know a
girl who is going to receive Is letters
on her 18th birthday, soon. The idea
seems to be a pleasant one.-Good
Housekeeping.
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1903-01-14

yards twenty-one inches wide, two and
one-quarter yards twenty-seven inches
wide, or one and half yards forty
four inches wide, with one and half
yards of all over lace when high neck
and long sleeves are used and the fall
and waist are of one material.
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1903-01-14
Passing of the Creme Veil.

Except for widows in their first
mourning the crepe veil is being grad
ually eliminated. 1t grows shorter and
shorter each year, and Is confined
more and more closely to the immedi-
ate back of the hat or bonnet.
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1903-01-14

ty-one inches wide. quarters of
yard twenty-seyen inches wide, or
three-eighths ofayard forty-four inches
wide.
The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1903-01-14

and the cold is sure to pass away
without leaving any bad effects.
Unless this is done the cold is al
most sure to end in the second stage OF
catarrh,. which is making so many lives
miserable. If Peruna was taken every
time one has a cold or cough, chronic
eatarrh would be practically an un-
known disease.
Miss Elizabeth Uber, No. 81 Bassett
street, Albany, N. Y, writes:
IL have always dreaded unsettled
weather because of my extreme habil-
ity to catch cold, when catarrhal
trouble would quickly develop through
my entire system, which it would take
weeks TO. drive away. | am thankful
to say that since I have taken Pc
RUNA | do not have any reason to
dread this any more. If | have been
at all exposed to the damp,wet or cold
weather, / take dose or tive Of Pc
RUNA, and it throws out any hint
OF sickness. from my system. Miss
Elizabeth Uber.
Mrs. M. j. Brink. No. 800 Michigan ave
lue, st. Joseph. Mich, writes
This past winter during the wet ant
'old weather | caught a sudden and sever,
old, which developed catarrhal condition
through my entire system, and so affected
ny general health that | was completely
broken down, and became nervous anc
iysterical and unfit to supervise my home
My physician prescribed for me, but some
low his medicine did me no good. Read
ng OF PERUNA | decided to try it. Al
-er | had taken but three bottles | founC
myself in fine health. Mrs. M. j. Brink
Sibyl A. .Hadley, 20 Main street, Hunt
ngton, Ind, writes: Last winter after
getting my feet wet l began to cough
which gradually grew worse until my
,hroat was sore and raw. Ordinary rene
lies did not help me and cough remedie,
me. Reading an advertisement