Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-08-15
-cral Correspondence Of The Evening Star.

Special Correspondence Of The Evening Star.
PARIS. August /, 1903.
Sleeves are growing daily more volumi-
nous from elbow to wrist and their incon-
venience proportionately increases. They
take dip into the gravy and playfully
upset the wine. They catch up forks. cork
screws and other small objects. and seem
to exemplify the perversity of inanimate
things. with the sole object of trying the
temper of their wearers and others. Yet
the sleeve continues to increase in size
below as 1t is restricted above-a COM
plete contrast to the time when our
shoulders were inflated with buckram and
pulled up with pride. while the forearm
was sleeved so tightly as to narrowly es-
cape discomfort. And with the sleeves the
skirt grows fuller also and dress becomes
more elaborate and complicated, with its
incrustations, insertions and entire deuX
of muslin. lace and chiffon. The lovely
accordion plated skirt and waist are
among the most charming fashions of the
hour. The coiffure also must be in accord
ance with the fullneSS of skirts and sleeves.
and though the hairdressers are endeavor-
ing to introduce more simplicity in style.
the general fullness and large. loose wave
refuse to disappear. The wreath also is re-
vived. and debutantes who for some time
past have worn only white and rose pink,
are again adjoining their hair with 1t.
The fashions of the first empire are fol-
lowed here in evening and tea gowns. The
Empress Josephine was a most graceful
woman and we have to thank her for the
extravaganza details of the empire dress
Nearly all the evening gowns worn then
were embroidered with pearls and precious
stones. We owe to her the gold and sill
yer spangled cuffs which are so much worn
now. 1t was an extravagant age, that of
the creole empress whose lavish expendi-
ture knew no bounds. The enormous in
come allowed her not sufficient to meet
this expenditure. But her taste was ey-
qulsite. and originated some of the most
charming fashions which have been handed
down TO US
She was fond of filmy India muslns and
rich embroideries in gold and silver from
the far east. The French woman makes of
outline a very careful study. 1t is to her
quite as important color and though the
minor details are carried out with the
nicely of taste which characterizes her
these two m1in points in the toilet are the
test of her artistic taste.
Has Graceful Lines.
A pink satin dress. embroidered with sill
yer. which Nine Sarah Bernhard wears in
its grace of outline is perfection itself. An
empire dinner gown, made of soft cream
satin hand embroidered, has sleeves and
bodice trimming of Dalghali Grape, Dor
dered with narrow beading. At the hem
there are three bias tucks The gown is
means OF clusters of perpendicular tuckings.
The Grape. which is only one straight piece.
is very deXterously draped on the bodice
caught up with buckle in the center of
the bust and in front of each shoulder
forming a sort of epaulet over the hanging
sleeves. This is repeated at the back
where the gown fastens. The buckles are
pearl and diamond affairs, which sparkle in
the light. They are soft and flexible and
through the one at the waist is drawn the
Grape sash which descends nearly to the
feet.
The tea frock originated by the young girl
of the day is the latest innovation 1t is a
graceful indoor garment of simple con-
struction. comfortable, and donned in the
twinkling of an eye, and not neglise.
either. It is neat, fits perfectly and is very
elegant and dainty. 1t is not a princess.
but is Joined at the waist. so that it is ali
in one, and has a very clever wide elastic
belt. which makes corset unnecessary
Crepe de chine. wolfe and soft silk are suit
able for this frock, which gives all the ease
OF a tea gown.
Black and Ecru.
very pretty black sole de chine frock.
made for well-known American has fine
ecru guipure insertions on the hips and
around the knees. This is outlined with a
design in jet. with sprinkling of silver
paillettes. TIE bodice has yoke and