Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-03-07
ODD PARASOLS.
Workwomen Profit by a Whim Of
Fashion That is Now a Craze.


The woman who is able to estimate ac-
| curately the cost of parasols to be made to
order is an invaluable assistant to the para
sol manufacturer in these days, because
the craze for exclusively designed parasols
keeps the makers busy, and 1t requires a
good deal of technical knowledge to tell be-
forehand what the cost will be-
Some women want parasols made UP ac-
cording to their own ideas. Others simply
want something that will not be duplicated.
The makers try to cater to this demand.
OF twenty-five or thirty parasols made by
one manufacturer for south-going tourists
lately two were alike. In some feature
of material or ornament they differed, how
ever similar in shape or dimension.
The head designer and forewoman in the
parasol factory acquired her knowledge by
steady application and long apprenticeship.
Although an artist in way, adapting many
of her prettiest conceits from nature, she
studied at no school of either Industrial or
abstract art.
The expert maker of fine parasols is paid
better than any other factory worker in
the city. The woman supervisor of the six
ty girls employed in a fine parasoi factory
has important, well-paying place. She
has bolts Of costly chiffon, silk, satin and
tissue put in her care each morning to be
cut and apportfoned out to the various
workers; blocks of fairy ribbons and whole
pieces of fine embroidery and costly lace
objects for applique work. also rich velvet
chenille and other materials to choose from.
so that no designer may be hampered In
her work for lack of variety of fabrics.
AS with the millinery trade, few pat
tern paraSolS are imported from Paris and
Vienna by the manufacturers every season
for duplication, but the most exclusive am
admired specialties are designed by home
talent.
A parasol in admirable suggestion Of the
burr artichoke in flower is a recent crea-
ton. The lower part of the panels Is of a
dull, lusterless green, shaggy stuff arranged
in pointed layers, and the upper half OF the
pinkish purple tint of the artiohoke bios
som. The edges terminate In double-fringed
borders Of the same pinl1ish hue. The ham
die is of dull green stained wood delicately
carved.
Another quaint design has the lining of as
many pendulous strata the layers of an
onion, soft and silky the outside being
vereiy plain. Parasols of very piable I'M
dressed leather Of the sort used for tap
estry work are novelties. They are made
in shades of leaf green, fawn and mush-
room.
An uncommonly beautiful sample parasol
is designed on the style and coloring of an
orchid. One for use with outing cos
tune has the spotted, thick-textured lining
and smooth outside covering of a tan toad
stool. The handle is of translucent pearl
decorated with inlaid work.
The parasol makers are encouraged to eX-
ert all the ingenuity and dizziness they can
summon in originating novel combinations
of texture or new devices of trimming.
Many parasols are hand painted at the in
stigation of designers ignorant of technical
titles of artists work, but with very clearly
defined ideas of the effect they wish simu-
lated
There is scarcely a fabric trimming
material used for gowns and wraps or hats
at the present time that is not utilized in
parasol making. Parasols Of fine thin null
or net are tucked, corded, ruched and lace
inserted just as crepe and chiffon gowns
are decorated. Expensive thread-lace para
soils are among the much priced possessions
of luxurious women.
Even velvet and heavy teXtured fabrics
of wintry import are used for enclosing,
and in the applique work about edges and
in the centers of panels where richness OF
color is wanted.
The paraSol maker does her most inter
esting work for weddings When the bride
and her maids are all to carry parasols
samples of the materials chosen are given
to the forewoman, and she notifies her best
workers that a prize will be awarded for
the cleverest design submitted
The girls plan out their designs at home
in the evenings. The best designs are sub
mitted to the customer ordering the para
soils, and the originator of the chosen de-
sign gets applause and praise for her work.
Some very beautiful parasols in white
and cream are made to order for baby car
riages. Others of unique make are worked
out for use in the ballets and scenic effects
in spectacular operas.