The Spokane press. [volume] (Spokane, Wash.) 1902-1939, 1903-08-05

PARIS, Aug. 5.-The prestige of
Paris as the worlds center Of fash
ion is responsible for the fact that
there are more famous dressmakers
there than in any other city, but it
Is remarkable that. although their
name Is legion. each great dress
maker has his own particular spe-
cialty and his indiviGuai notions
about his art. Worth. Redfern. Dou-
Get and half q score of other names
present themselves to the mind at
the mention of either dresses or Par
is; for many reasons the two words
are synonymous. And yet. each of
these firms can put on the market
creations in q style of which the
cOnnoisseur can at once recognise the
creator. Not that they are never
| original: sometimes they are daring
| ly so. but 1t Is in their own way.
| Their originality sometimes amounts
to eccentricity in its maddest forms.
This was attested by the gigantic
bustles worn some 20 years ago. the
idea for which was. 1t is said. sug-
gested to Felix by a wooden bench
on which his eye chanccd to fall one
day while he was vainly seeking
something new. model was hastily.
summoned and harnessed to the
bench, draped in folds of soft cloth.
And the result was the most gro
tesque of all fashions since, the days
Of hoopskirts. =.
The first dressmaker to develop
individuality and make an art of
what had been q trade was Frederick
Charles Worth. That was nearly half
ka century ago. and although many
dressmakers have come to fame in
the time that has since elapsed. none
has surpassed him in the eyes of
the public. For this or for that
particular style of dress an English
peeress or a member of the New
York smart set may apply elsewhere
| in the rue de la Paix In accordance
| with the vasaries Of fashion, but the
bulk of her toilsttes will come from
Worth's. Walking through his show
rooms, one may at any time meet
| the duchess of Marlborough. the
countess Of Craven. Mrs. Ogden Goe
| let. Mrs. Oliver Belmont. Mrs. w.
K. Vanderbilt. Jr., Mrs. Bradley Mar
tin, or other leaders of fashion In
two hemispheres. and If the setting
| were different one would indeed think
| ones self in some exclusive salon.
| But the original Worth founded his
establishment when luxurious ideas
were not yet general. and it has been
| the pride Of his sons VINO succeeded
him, to remain true to this principle.
Other dressmaking firms in Paris,
which may have present popularity.
but which have not much in the way
of traditions. are free to furnish their
apartments az IL they were Fifth ave-
nue. mansions. Worth retains has
counters and simple furnishings all
in good taste. but not attempting
to conceal the indisputable fact that
1t is. after all. a shop and not draw
ing room.
Worth's idea in founding the Arm
which was to become world-famous
was restoring its ancient prestige to
the making Of lace and fine mate
Il rails. 30 much attention. was being
paid to style and form that the ma
tsrial used was almost unconsidsrsd.
| provided It was costly, but one no
longer saw the glorious designs
which distinguished the court dress
es Of q hundred years ago. Worth
| therefore made special arrangements
with the Lyons silk factories to pro-
ducs for him the most beautiful pat
terms to be found. and ordered from
the lacsmakers in Alencon and other
towns noted for this speciality fine
works On ancient models. This done,
a new style had to be found which
would do Justice to so much beauty
Of material ana the secret OF this
Worth found to be simplicity.
Ball and dinner dresses are the
classes which Worth prefers as CIV
ing him the best opportunities. He
will make, for instance. corsage
Of . single piece OF silk. smbroid.
cred in q bold design, which seems
made expressly to At the lines of q
bodice. and yet which IL no less per.
feet when placed on the skirt. o.
else he will have a velvet powdered
} light like sheet Of diamonds. or q
brooads so rich IN design and ~
wonderfully blended in various husi
that Il 10 beautiful rs a picture Il
look upon. Some Of these material.
cost $40 per yard. or sven more
when one desires . dress Of thes,
fabrics the COST runs up to $500,
or t2oo0. and by adding . little val
snoisnnes " Point Do Venice ever
this prios can b improved upon
Worth now has one dress which tool
In years TO make Of Alencon iac'
woven In four pieces. the skirt. tn
bodice and the two sleeves, are val