Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-05-09
HOUSE,
HOLD
lINTS

Charlotte Perkins Stetson Gilman to the
contrary. most women like to cook and do
not save in extreme hot weather. regard
the kitchen range as the malevolent mo-
loch that she pictures.
1t is the getting things together, the
washing of dishes and the clearing up"
afterward that pals. Could these essen
tials be reduced to minimum. or con-
fded to a ''slavey'' whose ambition reaches
no higher than keeling the pots" the
weighing, the measuring. the combination
of food elements to just the right degree of
nicely, the deft manipulation of factors
that produce the perfect gastronomic
whole, Is a vastly more entertaining and
satisfactory operation than its sister
science, chemistry. which abounds in bad
| orders and burned fingers
Eating is not an ignoble function. The
stomach. if not the seat of the affections
| is largely responsible for the well-being
| of the entire body and mental attitude, and
| she who by we'll selected, well cooked
| food keeps the human machine running
| supplying what elements are lacking, sup
| plementing the weak and toning down the
| abnormal. is rendering greater service for
| the world at large than the Galens who
| runs about repairing damages with pills and
| powders. Happily, there is noticeable
| trend toward simplicity in eating; that is,
less variety III Inc ulSHeS pIONiueu lOI d
single meal: but these of the best material;
| better cooked and better served. French
| dishes and methods are prevailing more
| than ever before. Even in the Vanderbilt
Nelson wedding six or seven courses were
deemed quite sufficient in lieu of the twelve
| or fifteen that obtained on similar occasions
| a few years ago. CLANS or oysters are rare
| ly seen now as first course, grape fruit
| or Russian caviare having taken their
| place. Indeed, it is very common for the
| service to begin with the bouillon.
AS this is always a staple, directions for
| its making may not come amiss Bouillon
proper is beef broth prepared from the
| liquor Of bouill boiled beef, with vege-
| tables to season. Neither beef nor vegeta
| bles are boiled longer than is necessary to
| cook them, and supplementary bone and
| sinew are added in order to get as much
| gelatine as possible. To five pounds of good
| fresh beef from the middle Of the leg allow
| two pounds of bone. two quarts and a half
| of cold water, a heaping teaspoonful of salt,
small bunch of kitchen herbs two cloves,
| two peppercorns. one onion. one stick OF
celery teaspoonful of celery salt, one
small carrot and half turnip. Have the
butcher crush the bones and lay them in
the pot first. Wipe off the meat and cut
| in small pieces, removing all the fat. Lay
the meat on the bones. pouring cold water
over. add the salt and place on the range
where 1t will come very slowly to boil.
AS soon as the scum rises. remove, and IL
the liquor bois too fast, pour in a small
cupful of cold water to check the boiling
and make the scum rise. Repeat tnlS Twice.
Now add the seasoning herbs and sliced
vegetables and simmer slowly-not boil-for
three or four hours. but remove vegetables
and herbs before they cook to rags" the
meat only remaining in the pot until the end
of the process. During the cooking process
the soup should boil down to about three
and a half pints. Strain, pour into a per-
fectly clean vessel. and when cold remove
the fat When ready to serve heat and
serve in cups. This will suffice for eight
persons
If one needs a larger quantity, the pro-
portions should be increased accordingly or
7 supplemented by the bouillon capsules or
extract of beef dissolved in hot water 1t
should be rich and stimulating, clear, with
an agreeable odor and rich brown color. If
not dark enough, lime caramel or kitchen
bouquet will make 1t all right. Little din
| ner rolls or reception waters go with the
bouillon.
Asparagus is another dish which cooking
can make mar. 1t has always been eSti-
mated a great delicacy. According to
| mythology asparagus grew In the Elysian
fields. and doubtless accompanied ambro-
| STA and nectar when the gods reclined at
| meat. 1t was the favorite vegetable of
the ancient Romans, and was introduced
by them into Britain. Pliny devoted sew
| eral chapters of his natural history to it's
proper cultivation and virtues, saying, of
all the productions of your garden your
chief can well be your asparagus" 1t is
much more generally used in France and
England than here The French especially
make large medicinal use of the root of the
asparagus, which is supposed to quiet the
action of the heart and act a preventive
of calcule While the little gentlemen in
green are greatly in demand at the most
recherche dinners and luncheons their
price at this season, with the homegrown
product in the market permits even ordi-
nary people to consider ways of cooking
them. Fashion has decreed during the past
four years that asparagus must be served
cold at up-to-date social functions, but on
the home table hot asparagus cooked en-
m a q Uy{l
never go a-begging.
Asparagus soup is both delicate and de-
lightful. Put two dozen asparagus stalks
in boiling sailed water. just enough to
cover. with a small onion few sprigs of
parsley and stalk of celery. Cover closely
and cook twenty minutes or half an hour
| until tender. Take out the asparagus with
a SKINNER and strain the water from the
other vegetables. Press the asparagus
through a PURGE strainer and return to the
water In which 1T was cooked Make a
white sauce by cooking together one heap
ing tablespoonful of butter and a level
| tablespoonful Of -four. stir smooth, add the
asparagus and water. Allow 1t to boil a
| few minutes. then add half pint of sweet
cream or rich milk. and season dellcateiy
with salt. white pepper and grating Of
nutmeg or tablespoonful of lemon juice, as
preferred. Do not allow it to cook after
adding the cream, but while scalding hot
pour gradually over the well-beaten yolks
cate crackers. Epicures recommend adding
bits of cucumber in butter Just before the
yolks of eggs are stirred In. but to ordinary
folk that seems a work of supererogation.
Canapes OF asparagus make dainty
entree. and though adopted from the
foundation of the canape Is the same, no
matter what the filling may be- Take slices