The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-12-25
correspondence of the Indianapolis Journal.

NEW YORK, Dec. A--When this reaches
you the merry Christmas season will be at
it's height and plans for all sorts of winter
gayety will be afloat. While there is MOTH
ing radically new since last week, there
are novelties to be seen and hints to be
gathered that always are welcome at this
season. Shortly the world of fashion will
move South. Before We are really aware
that the new year has set in we shall be
considering muslins and the like for the
Florida and California resorts, but far the
time being interest centers in the gowns
suited to all the occasions of the social
whirl which January at its height.
The newest thing have seen in walking
costumes is so graceful and so satisfactory
as well as smart as to come to my mind
in preference to anything else. The skirt
is killed, but in quite a new way, and re-
duces the weight materially while giving all
the effect of the familiar plaits.
Front and sides are plain from
the knees up finished with killed hounce
below, while the back is killed for its entire
length. The coat usually is long and plain,
when the costume is en- suite, but military
styles are much liked in black or dark blue
over plaid. AS a matter of course, shrewd
designers and sensible wearers confine the
style to light weight cloths, but French
brOadcloth and many Of the new zibelines
are far from heavy, while they make up
most effectively. 1 do not claim to be a
prophet, preferring to let things develop
without representation on my part, but if
mistake not, this newest killed model
will be seen in numbers with the spring and
will be charming in the lighter fabrics Of
the season. Military styles. too. bid fair to
hold. Bits of gold crop up here. there and
everywhere in late winter models. and We
safely look for them to continue Velvets,
too, are much seen in the handsomer walk
ing or trotteur suits and chiffon sort Is
shown in some plated skirts with coats OF
fur that are chic in the extreme One noted
at morning gathering of the week was
of brown, the exact shade OF sealskin, and
sun plated, and another of mole with the
jacket of moleskin with ermine collar and
cuffs. Both skirts just cleared the ground
and both coast were jaunty and short. The
seal showed a CLINT of the favorite gold in
cockade on the turban which was of the
velvet, fur-trimmed, a far more healthful
model than the all fur hat which so far
overheats the head as often to prove me,
mace to the health Of the hair Box-plaited
skirts, too are worn in plain velvet and are
exceedingly handsome both with coats to
match and those Of fur AS a rule, the
waists worn with these suits are of the lin
gerie sort, handmade and trimmed with
fine lace. Fur coats are heavy. More often
our climate finds them Owe h rdt liner
and these dainty waists are found comfort
able and hygienic as well as smart. Not
few are rendered really elegant with yokes
and cuffs of costly lace, but the essentials
are fine material and dainty work. The
filmiest musins are preferred and there is
a general suggestion of summer. rather than
any hint of winter, found in them all: but,
as 1 have already said, the fashion for fur
coats renders them comfortab BILE on all mod
crate days.
FLOUNCES TO BE WORN.
For all long skirts, whatever their use,
fiounces galore are correct They may be
gathered, they may be plated, they may be
circular covered with frills, but in some
form they very surely will be found. We
must have fare and soft folds about the
feet and in no other way can they so sue
cessfully be obtained. Princess models grow
in favor and the two features are combined
to give some really exquisite effects.
most beautiful dinner gown that exemplifies
the point has just been completed and will
be worn during this coming week. The
foundation material Is pine-green chiffon
velvet which is cut In a many-gored. gen.
uine princess style, but is cut off at the
lower edge to fall over a graduated fiounce
that is most novel In being wider at the
front, almost disappearing at the back, and
Is so draped WIN lace over the cOrSdSe as
to do away with any overseverity of line.
The foundation is taffeta In the same shade,
edged with a ruche. Over this Is an accor-
dion plated fiounce of cream chiffon and
over Il gathered one OF applique lace in
deep ivory tone. The bodice includes q
fichu drapery of the lace and big lace
sleeves that fall to the elbows. Nothing
more charming than the new pale green and
the deep ivory could well be imagined. and
the entire gown is one especially worthy of
note Other princess models are also OF the
chiffon velvet and many are draped about
the bodice so dispensing with the most try
ing lines; one also sees crepe de chine and
the like used in similar ways, but this some
what more exacting model suits the velvet
specially well.
Champagne shades are almost a craze.
They, with grays. will be much worn the
coming season through, and now are being
made up into gowns of all sorts. most
superb evening costume Is of net in the
color and is deliberately embroidered with
opal sequins making an iridescent effect
that Is really gorgeous. The skirt Is
double one. a style much favored, by the
way; each edge Is cut In squares, each
square embroidered with a complete motif
The bodice Is soft and low with bertha
and full, pulled sleeves on which the en-
broidery is repeated and an unlined deep
yoke of ivory lace A simpler gown in the
skirt is all circular. To the short upper
founces are joined, each edged and beaded
with shaped flaps that are finished with
silk cord and show insets of Cluny lace
medallions above each slash that en-
riched by an outlining of embroidery In Per-
sian colors. There is hip yoke of lace also
the bodice that shows three Overlapping
rou,e NJ shaped hands that match those On