Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-04-25


PARIS April II. 1903
Is there ever a time when clothes are
more alluringly tempting than in the
spring? Especially Is this the case in our
present season of grace 1893. In winter
ones discomfort may be- hidden under a
few new gowns and wraps, but in the
spring and summer to be happy we must
be the possessors of legions.
The first bright days show up the defects
and general shabbiness of our winter gar
ments and make US long for something fes-
tive and smart. 1t seems to me the Paris
ian spring Is the sunniest and brightest in
all the world, and the women at the gay
capital rival nature in their stunning attire
at this time of the year.
If in days gone by fine feathers made fine
birds. what kind of feathered specimens,
except those of paradise, shall we see
flying around this summer, bewildering us
with their beauty?
The couturieres say-but I am weary of
couturieres. rather let us reflect upon the
divine art of which they are the profess
ors.
The A B c of their alphabet is found in
the wonderful materials which go into the
fashioning of their masterpieces. So mex
hauStible Is the supply and so infinite the
variety that it becomes not so much a
question of what to buy as what not to
buy.
To be perfectly correct and elegant ones
gown. hat and accessories must tone in
color and be picturesque in outline. With
out these two distinguishing marks a toilet
of springtime this year is incomplete. 1t is
no longer a secret that there is nothing
really new in the shape of spring costume,
but there is nevertheless sufficient varia-
ton to give last years belongings a behind
the-times appearance discouraging in the
extreme.
Very noticeable is this difference in the
indispensable little bolero, which now is
loose-fitting and reaches just above the
lie inv iah do -
plaits. wide or narrow. stitched or plain.
..vt A Wide, Soft Cape.
The prettiest of these new boleros have
wide cape in plain cloth hanging softly
about the shoulders. Above the cape is a
turned-down collar opening to a point to
show the lace or silk waist underneath. The
art of the dressmaker or tailor lies in the
cut of this cape and collar, and the en-
broiderer has free scope in the working out
in delicate colorings of designs on col
lar and wristbands.
There Is hardly anything so important
in dress as the cut of the skirts and here
are some hints which will let you into the
secret of the new ones: In the first place.
even the so-called long gowns are shorter
both back and front. A four-inch slope Is
the right thing. and they nearly all have
the yoke piece, which requires the most
careful fitting. This renders the skirt i'm
possible for the home dressmaker. Many
of the skirts have pointed yoke back and
front. and almost all are enthusiastically
tucked and gathered, perfect maze of
elaboration. 1t is a necessity that they
be perfectly plain about the hips, but from
that point they flare in the sauciest fash
ion. some measuring quite five and half
yards at the hem.
If you can understand such a contradic-
ton of terms, one of the newest skirts is
the old many-gored one. The new adap-
tation is made without yoke and trimmed
down each seam. fitting smoothly over the
hip and becoming voyant at the foot.
An outlining for the front seams which
Parisans are approving is series of over
tapping tabs of cloth about the size of q
franc cut with a raw edge and lined with
silk. They have a FISH scaly appearance,
especially when made from gray or green
cloth.
The plated skirt Is another conspicuous
mode to be met with under a dozen differ
ent aspects. When gracefully cut, it