The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-02-07

attached. A most charming suit of brown
canvas Is made with blouse Elton that is
falls over the sleeves. The skirt shows
plated panel at the front; another, mar
rover, at the back, and a circular hounce
between that terminates under the plaits.
The trimming is bands of white cloth, edged
with brown soutache, novelty that will.
l think, find extended favor. All fancy
braids are in vogue. Never have l seen
such variety. They defy description, but
are apparent at every turn Soutache, too,
is being freely used, and this combination
with cloth bands Is peculiarly effective.
are plated in various ways. An exceed
ingly smart model Is of myrtle green can
vas etamine and Is trimmed with straps of
the same. The skirt is circular and laid
In succession of fiat fan plaits that taper
to nothing several inches below the waist.
Between these plaits are applied straps that
are cut almost TO points at their upper
edges and widen as they approach the
lower edge. The blouse is laid in fiat plaits
an inch in width and it finished with a
shoulder cape that Is extended to form a
narrow applied box plat at the back. The
sleeves are feature and mark a notable
tendency. In common with all those of the
season they are plain at the shoulders and
widen as they approach the wrists. but
they are new in cut. There are two seams,
but instead OF being placed as they ordnar-
lily are the two pieces of the sleeve meet
on top of and under the arm, the folds
coming at inside and outside The inner
piece is gathered into narrow straight
cuff, but the outer falls free in flowing
style, while puffs of cream lace are
same sleeve gathered to form dropping
puff and others again hanging free with
out the lace. but the addition of this last
adds greatly to the effect.
EMBROIDERY THE RAGE.
Embroidery as trimming is becoming as
general as it's cost and difficulty allow. One
of the smartest of all the suits have seen
is of nut brown canvas. and includes a
blouse with narrow revers of white silk
embroidered in pastel silks. blue, white and
touches of pink. told you of the beautiful
shirtwaists last week, and since that time
have had cause TO admire them again and
again. Many French waists of the finer
sort are being shown. and needlework of
the sort makes a notable feature. Lace
also is freely used. and marked preference
for the heavy linen sorts is shown. Some
OF the smartest waists are of linen canvas,
fine yet open. and are trimmed with an
tique, Cluny or Maltese lace. This last is
peculiarly beautiful and Is shown in silk
as we'll as linen, black as well as in white,
and marks the revival Of Spanish laces, to
which i referred last week. The waists
are for the most part simple in cut and un-
lined. Many close ar the back. and beauty
is found in the fine work. the laces and
trimming Sleeves are uniformly snug at
the shoulders, full and large at the wrists
Many of the handsomest are opened at the
back and inset with wedge or cone-shaped
pieces of lace in the sleeves above the cuffs
These lace pieces are offered for sale in
various sizes. and the hint OF their useful
ness is worth bearing in mind. Last sea-
sons sleeves are correct above the elbows,
but small below The introduction of those
bits of lace means increased size, renewed
style and beauty all In one.
Heavy linen etamine. in white and the Pc
culiar shade the material takes when not
quite bleached, is much seen in imported
waists and is exceedingly handsome. There
seems 10 be absolutely no limit to the
amount of work and elaborate drawn-work
and what the French call ajour embroidery:
both seen as well the raised work.
A most beautiful model is OF the crash
with insertions OF heavy linen Maltese lace
and Is further beautified by lace stitches
which match the insertion. Another shows
a design of ajour. or openwork. embroidery
that completely covers the front. Fine tuck
ings too. are combined with heavy lace
and laces of two sorts are seen upon a
single bodice, a notable instance being
found in antique and represse lace used. the
former wide insertion. the latter as a
narrow finish at the edge. Again the long
shoudered effect is 10 be noted I'm many
OF the test models loath as / to admit
that such is the fact Bit by bit the
shoulder line has been elongated until Ii
is feared the future will see sleeves and