davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Washington times., 1903-08-23

fashionable at present. The plaited
pongee gowns are not as smart as they
were The heavier pongee is more
used now in the coat and skirt cos
tunes. which are extremely smart and
very useful. Liberty gauZe is more fash
ionable for the moment In the plated
gowns or in the shiFred one The
trouble is that Is is rather too fancy
a material for day wear. II seems more
suitable for evening wear. bur never
theless the material is recognized as
suitable for day wear as well. and con-
sequently is made up exactly as though
intended for a ball gown, excepting
that the waist is cut high instead of
low. White, pale pink, pale blue, and
very pale gray are the best coIors in
this material. and the trimmings of
lace or embroidered mousseIine de sole
are the ones considered the most suit
able
AS is usual at this time of the year.
number Of most eccentric fashions
make their appearance. These are the
ones which are sent out almost as feel
ers for what will do for the winter
StS ANos just at DiFSEnA the tAdkkeTdLEQ
sloping shoulders or the very wide
shoulders are attempted in the heavier
materials. A gown OF light biscuit-coI-
ored cloth has a skirt in side plaits
with wide band of guipure lace, dyed
the same color There IS a coat which
has an attached skirt in deep plaits
the upper part trimmed 10 look as
though IT were partly bolero. but the
odd part of the costume consists in the
side plaits, which start from the TOD
of the collar and go without any break
to below the elbow, in a sort OF wing
like appearance. securing by this means
most extraordinary long sloping
shoulder This style will be seen on
some OF the first winter gowns. but II
takes very strange figure to be able 20
wear IL satisfactorily. The deep shoulder
cape that prevents any action OF the
arms is also seen in the newest light
wool frocks, either the one shoulder capC
or the two, three or four, Il does not
seem 10 matter how many. Just what
will be the outcome of these new style:
remains to be seen. but they viii GER
tainly attract attention by their nov
/ city.
The Washington times., 1903-08-23

but the quality OF the lace that is now
used is extremely fine and equally ex-
peDslvc. while the handwork costs very
much more than it did in Olden times.
The outfit, which consists of a guimpe
dress. with rufles. trimmed with lace
entire deux and lace edged and the coat
and bonnet to match. are. without doubt.
becoming and exquisiteiy dainty. The
coat is made precisely on the plan of
woman's long evening coat. is loose
fitting, and has a deep cape of lawn.
trimmed with three or four rows of real
lace entire deux and lace edged ruff
fle. The full sleeves are gathered in ar
the wrist with a band OF lace entire deux
and ruffie again. The bonnet is lined
with India silk of pale blue. pale pink or
white, or for very warm weather made
with no lining at all.
The mothers who can afford such an
outfit as this are in the minority. even
I'm these days of wealth. For the ma
iority exactly the same design can be
found in lightweight pique or linen and
muslin, with embroidery. but it must
be fine embroidery in place of lace. and
there are also several pretty styles
made. with hemstftched ruffle and tucks.
that are put in by hand, I'm which the
workmanship is quite possibly of home
manufacture.
FIounced dimity is fashionable for
children's frocks. and there are a num-
Der OF different patterns TO choose from
that are very dainty and most suitable.
The clusters of pink rosebuds or small
flowers on a solid ground Of white or
light yellow are exceedingly youthful IN
appearance and dainty in colorinE.
The Washington times., 1903-08-23
Fashions for the LITTLE Ones,

These do not require a great deal OF
trimming-two or three tucks of grad
uated size and ruffie around the shoul-
ders edged with narrow lace and puffed
elbow sleeves and a guimpe OF muslin
and lace, or, If so desired. the frock made
high necked and with a guimpe effect.
AS a rule. the fancy materials, especial
Iy the fiowered muslins, are ali made in
the guimpe effect, and il is the heavier
materials, like pique and linen, that are
made with the long WASTED fashion, or
rather in the all in one design, with
three plaits frcnt and back, or with one
broad box plait and on either side of the
box plat three side pIaits. This both
in front and back
II is just as fashionable for boys to
dress in white as for girls. and white
linen suits made in sailor design, with
the long trousers and the sailor blouse,
are exceedingly becoming, and look so
cool and are so cool. Until boy is old
enough TO put on the hideous regulation
cheviot suit. the sailor style of dress
is much the best, either the short or long
trousers. with the square collar OF white
duck or linen made so that IL can be
taken of and washed without the whole
suit being done up. The first suit that &
boy wears is made on the Russian plan,
with the long blouse and the short, full
knickerbockeTs. This style is made Ia
all white materials, and when worn with
short socks and white or tan shoes is
delightfully."- cool and becoming. For
81 ha Inpp1. nd
ducks or even the striped galateas are
excellent and exceedingly inexpensive,
and these materials can be used for
either style OF suit
The Washington times., 1903-08-23

Z y August there is. or should be by
rights. a decided change in the
weather. With the longer nights
there are certainly much cooler days and
consequently there is more opportunity TO
wear rather heavier gowns in the aft
ernoon than was possible in July and
now the linen and silk gowns come into
prominence. while the lace trimmed
costumes and those made with the lace
coats are seen TO the greatest advan-
taee Even when gowns made with coats
are not worn with The Goats IL is well to
have The wraps at hand so they can be
donned if there is any change in the
weather. and IL is a great question
whether they really lock smarter with
OF without the coats. The linen and the
poneee gowns are fascinating. especial
" the white ones. These made with the
waists. coats. and skirts all 10 match
are smartcst. The waist must be trim
med with embroidery or lace or en-
broidercd-the latter the smartest OF all
the embroidery in heavy white thread
and with raised design. or ir with lace.
entredeux Skirts and coats are smart
est whom untr.mmed. made short to
clear the ground Well. with some extra
fullness al each seam put in around the
foot so there is a good fare: the coat
plain. without a collar or with a lace
or embroidered collar that Is round at
the back and in front has long, square
tabs. TIE toat can either be fastened
with fancy buttons OF white pearl with
a thread of gold in the center or with
small white buttons. These coats are
tight fttlng both In front and back, but
so cleverly cut that there is strsight
lire in front. instead OF the ugly curve
IN that marks the garment as old style.
There arc. in sharp contrast to these
coats. quite number made in perfectly
loose enects-an exaggerated box coat.
Others have straight back, only shap-
cd in az the side seams. and the front
quite straight. with a turned over col
lar faced with lace or embroidery. OF
without any collar at all. just the effect
OF a collar being given by the embroid-
cry on the material White continues
TO be the favorite color and white taf-
feta silk and white pongee as well as
linen and pique are immensely fash
iouable. They are very neat and trim.
these costumes. and all on the cxpcn
sive order. but most suitable for this
time of year. as are also the ones made
on the same design but OF light weight
serge or cloth.
The one color India silks are this year
exclusively fashionable, for they have
not been made up excepting by rather
conservative dressmakers. IN black they
are especially good with a tiny polka
dot the same color. trimmed with bands
OF narrow black velvet ribbon and with
yokes and deep cuffs OF black lace over
white They are simple and are made
in skirt and waist 70 match. not with
the coat The plain black coat IS con-
sidered 10 he smaTtest with them.
This season having been unusually
cool. there mas been a fine opportunity
for dressmakers 10 turn out a style OF
summer gown that they particularly like
10 make. They are Of most elaborate
muslins and laces, but made up over
silk Innings. fitted and boned and pre-
The Washington times., 1903-08-23

VG HITE is. OF course. The most
wv attractive and most becom-
ing color for children's wear
and the mo-, ,osHionablc st the present
moment The fancy for dressing chill
dren entirely in white still maintains
its popularity. The short white socks
and the white shoes look deliciousiy
cool, while the little frocks made either
of light weight linen embroidered by
hand on the linen itself or of the finest
organdy or lawn, made with short
sleeves. are fashionable both for very
young and rather old children. The
white pique and white duck frocks are
all made with the long Iiues-that is.
with the plaits and the long waisted
effect, and the belt of leather or pique
beltcd down in front, . ruffie, quite
scant and cut on the bias. around the
shoulders. and the short sleeves finished
with a ruffie. OF course with this style
OF garment-for II is all in one-there
can be a woke of lace and embroidery
or muslin and lace. and when Il is not
possible for child 70 wear low neck
and short sleeves. as is often the case.
there can he sleeves of the material
10 match the frock. and also yoke or
chemisette of the material as we'll.
The extravaganza of the age is so ON
nipresent that it is nothing unusual to
see SO much expense put upon the
clothes for small children, for from
time immemOrial it has been the desire
OF every fond mothers heart TO deck her
baby in real lace and hand-sewed fTocks.
The Washington times., 1903-08-23

cisely on the lines OF winter clothes. ex-
cepting that the material is thinner.
The unlined lace and batiste gowns
have been for the last three or four
seasons most exquisite as TO workman
ship. most dainty as to effect and ex-
ceedingly smart, but they have been
very hard for dressmakers to turn out
satisfactorily according to their ideas,
and certainly in thin materials il is
difficult to get as good a fit. OF course,
there have been the silk underbodies,
made in princess style. over which may
be worn any sort OF thin gown, but still
these are not the same as the fitted
silk lined summer frocks, and now the
most exquisite of this kind are. worn.
4 most charming gown of yellow batiste
Is made Up over pale yellow silk lin
ing The skirt is embroidered with yell
low daisies and has an applique of yell
low lace as well There is long coat or
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1903-02-15

= So successful has been the tour of Kocian,
who played in st. Louis a week ago. that
Rudolph Aronson. his manager. has signed
a contract with him for twenty additional
concerts In American cities, including San
Francisco. kocan will return to New York
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1903-02-15

Cynical critics have sometimes said that
there is not much serious interest in music
among American-born people. The cynical
opinion goes to the extent of saying that
the American man cares nothing for music
and that the American woman cares for 1t
only as a social entertainment or as a
prospect for distinction in public perform
ances.
Like most off judgments, this die
tum goes too far. And yet 1t is probably
true that. on account of the diversity of &C.
tive mental pursuits in this country, there
IS a lack of the settled and concentrated in
terest in pure music which exists in some
parts of Europe.
Undoubtedly the best test OF concern
about music for its own sake is the degree
to which chamber music fiourishes. The
typical form of music is the string
quartet and its variations of quintets with
piano. clarinet or flute. The interest can
be measured either in the number of quar-
tet clubs which play for their own gratifi-
cation. or in the patronage Of performers
who give chamber music in public. Judged
by either of these tests. st. Louis can
hardly claim to be jealous in the cause Of
pure music.
The Kneisel Quartet Of Boston is possibly,
the best string quartet in the world. Ger
tatnly It challenges comparison with any in
Europe. It has appeared several times in
b Louis under the auspices of the music
clubs, and it never excited more than the
mfldest interest.
MT. Theodore Spierling is a highly quail
fed violinist. and his Chicago quartet al
ways gives admirable performances. His
concerts in St Louis have dwindled from a
small success to nothing.
Mr.. Victor Lchtenstein CALAMITY under
book to develop a local season of chamber
music. His ~'cellist. Mr.. Schubert, is one of
the best quartet players In ali the West.
and his other assistants are thoroughly ca
peble. The first concert presented a we'll
balanced and highly creditable rendition OF
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1903-02-15
homes. but must say that 1 am always

homes. but I must say that 1 am always
treated royalty in st. Louis.
o course, as the years roll on, some of
| my friends have been married. others moved
away, others dead. / always miss one face
| that Of good old John W. Norton. and l
never seem to realize that he is gone for
ever. Mr.. Norton always encouraged me.
Many times, when l was a girl, L would
feel discouraged and like giving up trying
to get a good position and permanent foot
ing in New York. and he would say. 'Cour-
age, little woman: you just study. learn
your music. take care of yourself and things
will come your way and he was right.
"In those days there was a trio Of good
friends to always encourage and hefp me
John w. Norton, Pat Short and George Nc
Manus. Now there are but two-Mr- Short
and Mr.. McManus. However. they always
try as near as possible to fill the vacant
place and to always make me feel at home
Last summer Edna Wallace Hopper of the
"FIorodora'' company became for the hrst
time in her life a super. She appeared IN
the race track scene IN "Ine SUBURBAN anu
led the mob. -. =
She stood in the judges stand on the mimi
ic race track and cheered the horses on TO
victory. No sooner were the lights raised
upon that scene than the audience recoS-
uizsd her and gave her cheers of greeting
In the Sldnu Will II iopPei
AIDE, author of The Sultan of Suiu-
In order to reach McVicker's Theater
Mrs. Hopper. who played as usual in Flor
odora'' at the Illinois Theater. had to take
a most exciting ride. She had a wait OF
but twenty minutes in the play. During this
time she left one theater. drove to another,
appeared in a scene at this theater. re-en-
tered her carriage. drove back to the the
alter where she was playing and was In tune
TO appear on the scene.
you could not imagine anything more
exciting said Mrs. Hopper in describing
the episode. while I stood there in the
judges stand and watched that race, l
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1903-02-15

WRITTEN FOR H SUNDAY REPUBLIC.
The Choral-Symphony Society will give Its
fourth subscription concert at the Odeon
Thursday evening. This time the chorus has
its long-anticipated chance to show what 1t
can do with a classic. other than oratorio.
Gluck's ~cantata. .Orpheus and Eurydice."
will be sung. the solo parts having been as
signed to Nine. Louise Homer of the Met
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1903-02-15

a Haydn and a Borodin quartet. represent
ing classic and modern schools. The at
tendance was only fair, and the ladies who
profess to be chief marshais of the music
al set were conspicuous by their absence.
Mr.. Lichtenstein has in preparation exqui-
site compositions by Dvorak and Saint
Saens, in addition to w%eIl-known classics.
1t is to be hoped that his later cocerts will
meet with a more copious encouragement.
George Heerich. one Of the most brilliant
and spirited Of our violinists, has returned
to his early love of chamber music. and has
a quartet in practice, and some. views re-
garding quintets with piano. So far his re-
hearsals are a labor Of love. and he is I'M
decided about attempting public appear
ances.
Sunday afternoons at Henneman Hall
Messrs. Henneman, Gecks and Moll are CIV
ing pleasant and musicianly miniature con-
certs, which are entitled to overflow meet
ings, considering inc immense number OF
people who are willing to be entertained in
various ways on Sunday. But these gen.
tlemen have not been heard to complain OF
lack of space for corners in the tidy little
hall.
It looks as If, under the tests afforded by
these praiseworthy efforts Of our own
musicians. and by the experience of the
Kneisel and Spiering Quartets, St. Louis IL
not yet, ready to point with pride to Its de-
~velopment of music in the purer forms. 1t
is somewhat to be regretted, since there IS
no form Of music which so develops the
taste for pure beauty and perfection of per-
Torrance.
When The Only Way was first brought
out in England, Mr.. Martin Harvey played
Sidney Carton. Soon after, and while Har-
vey was still pursuing a successful course
on the other side. Henry Miller was starred
in the piece in this country. with SO much
success that the American public got the
impression that Mr.. Miller was. the creator
of the role. Two or three weeks ago, when
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1903-02-15

ropolitan ~Opera-house. New York: Mrs.
Paul Davis and Miss Lillian Suffer of st.
Louis. The entire orchestra has also been
laid under contribution. Charles Galloway
is to preside at the organ. Mime. Homer
comes directly from New York for this
event. The choruses, solos and .nstru-
mental interludes of Gluck's classic have
been in careful rehearsal for several weeks.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1903-02-15

OF sidney carton Is so well conceived anu
so admirably written that 1t plays itself:
for certainly it doesn't seem reasonable to
assume that four actors, one after the
other. would make notable successes in any
other way.
Locally, the most notable musical event
Of the past week was the production Of
P%uccini's opera, ''Tosca," by the Castle
Square Company. the opera being heard
for the first time in St. Louis last Tuesday
evening. 1t Is remarkable for colorful or
chestration peculiarly in sympathy with
the anna quality, of the Sardou play.
upon which Puccini's work Is founded, and
the Castle Square Orchestra, under Con-
ductor Emanuels leadership, fully and
competently brought out the beauty and
significance of the score. Adelaide Nor
wood, as Tosca. and Mr.. Con, as the Baron
Scarpia, were the stars of the production.
Mr.. Sheehan and Mr.. D'Aubigne alternating
in the role of Mario. which does not give
opportunity for especial distinction.
ss
1t seems that America may soon at last
be credited with having produced an oper-
attic tenor of high rank. Mr.. Ellison Van
Hose, SO well known on the concert stage,
has accepted an offer from the Stadt Thea
ter in Bremen, and will leave New York
for Paris in April. He will study with
Koenig of the Paris. Grand Opera until
NiC WI Az "iiNIi Az iihN
his, debut in opera in Bremen. Mr.. Van
Hoose also has an offer from Covent Gar
den for the season OF 1904. the renewal of
an offer for last summer. which he de-
clined, but it is now thought that he will
go to Covent Garden from his Bremen en-
gagement. Likely as not the American
tenor will come to the Metropolitan Opera
house in New York. a European success
being calculated to convince the New York
management that an American tenor may
be worth while.
Gwilym Miles, the barytone. is to sing in
Cleveland. o., March - in Il joint recital
with Evan Williams. the favorite tenor.
Mr.. Miles is steadily growing in his art.
and has won Il high place in Eastern esti-
nation. He has established his home In
New York City for some years past, but
has a host of friends here in ST. Louis VINO
remember him as a St. Louisan. and one
of the original members of the Apollo
Club.
Although Frau Cosima Wagner once re-
marked that she did not take much inter-
est In the production of Wagner's operas
outside of Bayreuth, the fact remains that
t4xroyalties from such productions attain
agnitude which must be more or less
gratifying. The total paid the wagners in
royalties in 1902 amounted to upward of
$4,000. exclusive of the Bayreuth perform
anees. OF this total. the returns show that
"Lohengrin' was the most popular opera,
earning total royalties for the year Of $685.
600. The nsxt most popular opera was
~"Tannheuser," the total royalties for 1902
amounting to $50, $50. and the third In favor
war The Flying Dutchman."
So successful has been the tour of Kocian,
who played in st. Louis a week ago. that
Rudolph Aronson. his manager. has signed
a contract with him for twenty additional
concerts In American cities, including San
Francisco. kocan will return to New York
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1903-02-15

Mr.. Harvey was taken ill in Cleveland. a
young actor. Mr.. Imesor, was put UP to play
Sidney Carton. If the newspapers are to
be trusted-and they are to be trusted, as a
rule-Mr. Imeson made a big success in
Cleveland and Indianapolis. When the st.
Louis engagement of THE Only Way" be-
gar, Mr.. Harvey was still unable to appear,
and a new Sidney Carton was selected. This
one. a certain Mr.. Haviland. The gentle
man with a name like unto a China plate
instantly made a hit" The conclusion to
be derived from all of this is that the part
of Sidney Carton is so well conceived and
so admirably written that it plays itself:
for certainly it doesn't seem reasonable to
assume that four actors, one after the
other, would make notable successes in any
other way.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1903-02-15

Henry W. Savage has Cancelled the en-
gagement of the Prince of Pilsen'' for Feb
ruary p. to bring that attraction; to ST.
Louis for another week.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1903-02-15

Frances Stevens has replaced Gertrude
Bennett with Henrietta Crosman in The
Sword of the King Miss Stevens has oeen
starring in "The Little Minister
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1903-02-15

During Colin Kemper's recent visit to Eu-
rope he made the preliminary arrangements
for a London season for Louis James and
Frederick Warde in 1.-The Tempest" The
James-Warde tour In this country ends
about May. l.. after which it is altogether
likely they will go to London for an on.
gagement that will continue until Septem-
Der.
The Newark journal., 1903-05-08
Muscles aching, bones breaking, strength failing. That's Malaria! The remedy? Ayers Malaria and Ague Cure. 4:; 4as;s ss::: s.
Cures When Doctors Fall.

Mrs. Frank Chiasson. Patterson,
 La, writes June s, 1901, ''I had malaria fever in very bad form, was under treatment by doctors but as soon as stopped taking their med-. icine the fever would return. l. used sample bottle of Heroine and. found it helped me. Then bought two bottles which completely cur, ed me. feel grateful to you for furnishing such splendid medi- cine and can honestly recommend 1t to those suffering from malaria, as it will surely cure them Herb inc 50c bottle atJ. I. Sturdivant s.
The Newark journal., 1903-05-08

G. W. McMillin and Mrs. J. J. were married at the resi- dence of the bride Sunday morn ing, Squire John r. Tharp ofliciat- ing. The Journal joins their many friends in extending congratula- tions and good wishes.
 W. c. Walker, a good citizen from near the Point, was in town on business Monday. He reports that everything is getting pretty dry in his community, but that the farmers are still working full time and trusting in Providence for q bountiful harvest.
 Dr. H. G. Logan, of Logan township, wes in town Saturday.. He reports that the recent frost damaged a good deal of young corn in his neighborhood, but that there was very little cotton up, no material damage was done the cotton crop.
 D. R. Crowell, aged 76, died at his home just north of town last Friday morning from asthma. He had been very feeble for several months. Deceased was 6 native of North Carolina and came to this county when young man. The remains were inferred at HopeweH cemetery Saturday.