Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-08-18
FROM ACROSS THE SEA
SOME HINTS ON MEMS DRESS
FROM LONDON.
The Trouser-Crease Rumor Exposed
ward Wis New Boating Suit.

London Correspondence Of the Haberdasher.
With Henley over and parliament 80 near
the end of its session that there is difficulty
In keeping a house quorum to vote some
$5OOOOO.0OO of supply, anyone who knows
anything Of England will understand that
whatever other news I can send the read
ers Of the Haberdasher this month, there
will be nothing to record of town dress
The London season Is a thoroughly British
institution. 1t is not governed by the
weather or by any sort OF present conve-
nience 1t is governed by what used to be
convenient fifty years ago. At that time
parliament had everything to say in fash
ion. and people came to London when par
lament was in session, and went away
when 1t wasn't. Enthusiastically, there
fore, we still, now that the fashionable
world has grown 80 much. and changed SO
radically in character that the families OF
the six hundred and seventy gentlemen
elected to the house OF commons are
mere drop in the social bucket, continue
to a great extent to come and go with par
Lament. But even we are now getting
ready for the country. House parties have
been invited, and arrangements made for
the country life Of the summer. and for the
shooting which begins next month. Trade,
SO far as full-dress orders are concerned,
is practically dead and though you will find
plenty of people ready to predict the course
of the mode in this respect I do not pro-
pose to stultify myself and throw away
any reputation may possess, by talking
through my spring season hat about mat
tiers which can certainly not be foreseen for
at least several weeks yet Any forecast
as to full dress for the autumn season must
be premature and absolutely untrustworthy
now. AS soon there is the remotest
chance to see what the tendency OF things
is likely to be when the shooting and yacht
fpcy coo 10 a
goods, and in the meantime l recommend
no one to act on anything that may be said
beforehand
Shooting Costumes.
1t is, however, quite possible to see what
will be worn on the moors when the gun
season sets in. Many tailors have patent
sleeves. registered designs in coats. and
other peculiarities in the matter of shoot
ing costume. But all these things resolve
themselves into one idea, the solution OF
single problem, namely that of how to se-
cure perfect freedom, especially to the right
arm and the left elbow, in throwing up the
gun for a shot, and while there are no
doubt different ways of drafting sleeve.
and some of them may be patentable
Though the possibility Of defending the
validity of the patents Is another matter)
the problem is not one to overtax the ordl-
nary resources of a competent cutter. READ
ers who may have clients likely to be in
vited to shoot on the moors for grouse, or
later on over the stubble for partridge, IN
this country. need not trouble themselves
to duplicate any of the fancy devices in
vogue, or to infringe any of the patents
taken out; because fashion only concerns
itself with the selection of proper materials
and the visible form of garments. For this
years sport the most usual outfit will be
a Norfolk suit, with the inverted pleats
already so much liked, and generally with
the belt stitched down as far round to the
front as convenience, strained to the ut
most, will allow. Any kind of jacket made
for shooting should have the pockets as
to carry cartridges in the pocket.
We do not use bandoliers. nor
carry the rather effemina te- looking bag
dixie what ladies used to call reticule) af-
fected by the German emperor. We carry
them loose and handy. Neither do we shoot
in the grotesquely plumed Alpine hat worn
by that eccentric potentate. Norfolk
suit If made of CLOTH should always have
full-fronted golf cap with the cheese cut
ter shade rather small than usual, this
year. l forgot to mention. when speaking
of pockets, that the latter must be made
strongly, not of satara lining, but of
cloth.
Linen Norfolk Suits.
If made of cloth, did 1 say when referring
to Norfolk suits? Yes, l did. For there
are some men who have a taste for colo
nial-looking Norfolks made of dark colored
stout linen. These are. 1t must be admitted,
somewhat cooler than tweed, but they can
not be called smart in appearance, and they
owe their Introduction to the visit to Eng
land, in connection with the late war, of a
large number of Australian and South Afri-
can residents. The usual wear remains
tweed or homespun. AS very acceptable
material is the new game-feather tweed.
This is loose, SOFT rough-surfaced fabric,
with design in fan-shaped masses Of a
mixture of browns. yellows, and reds. with
a little dark green. I cannot describe the
pattern more closely without photograph,
difficult to reproduce. Alternatives equally
fashionable the various heather mix
lures. of brown tone and an admixture of
a little red Large waterproofed capes for
duck shooting, capable of being also used
on the moors in wet weather, are preferred
by many before rubber capes; but the Sc
rious sportsman clfngs to the older and
lighter style, capable of being rolled up Il
the rain clouds set the example by rolling
by.
There are, of course, still men who prefer
to shoot in a trouser suit of loud patterned
homespun having morning coat with
large side pockets These men are generally
chiefly in the country, and invite a large
house party when the game that they pre-
serve comes to its season. There is GER
tainly something to be said in favor of an
outfit which relieves the wearer from the
necessity of bringing knickerbockered legs
and stockinged calves into too intimate a
connection with the sharp prfckles of a
whin-bush q believe you call the whin by
it's south-of- England name. gorse); but the
Norfolk suit looks smarter. and is, there
fore, more appropriate for visitors wear.
Where trouser suit is worn. a round felt
hat is used-the only time when low hat
can be worn with a coat having tails.
The Henley Regatta.
Henley regatta fully justified my conser-
vative remarks on the subject of the Pan
anna hat. Too many people have paid from
$25 upward for real Panamas, and too
many others have persuaded themselves
that what has been sold to them at fifth
of that sum Panama looks something
like one, for the fashion to be entirely OBJ
solete. The king is reported to have sep
arated himself from 1915 75 guineas) for
the Panama In which he was recently seen
on the river. But the fact remains that the
straw bOater with rather a narrow btim
this year, Is more and more resuming its
fashionable statue. Colored ribands are
much worn, though they are not universal
1 have seen no tendency to revert to the use
popular just before the Panama and
shamama craze set in) of white ones, and
the comedy black riband is not by any
means obsolete Duck trousers are less
and less worn on the river, and white fan
mel. which I have consistently tipped in
this place. begins to resume its sway
,<,tll 49,