The daily morning journal and courier., 1903-06-11


 looms in proportion to the scanty popu- lation, dirt unlimited. f1eas and flies whose names are legion. Yet this is the fashionable watering place of southern Peru. crowded during a cer- tain season of every year with the creme de la creme in search of health and pleasure.
 One morning I climbed a steep hill. ankle deep in dust, every grain hold ing it's active flea, to inspect Mollendo's big church. Another example of how distance lends enchantment to the view" The blanks that compose it's wooden sides are not overlapping, as clap-boards are put on at the north, and the whole is roofed with sorruga- ted tin; no lath. no plaster, merely an empty shell, but very extensive. paint ed white outside, with two pretentious towers, also made of wood, which add greatly to it's imposing appearance when viewed from afar. Inside were miles of paper roses twined around the pillars, festooned in wreaths upon the wall, and suspended from the bare faf- ters, marking festivities incident to the "Manth of Mary" and among the usu- al gaudy images were many manta- wearing women on their knees, each awaiting her turn at the confessional window. I doubt if so many devout fe- males could be found in any other country. In all parts of South Ameri- ca, no matter how indictment the wealth. CT, every one of the numerous church. es is visited by scores of women every day in the year, who consider 1t their most blessed privilege to perform de- votions before breakfast. At half past five o'clock in the morning, rain or shine, the bells ring out their invita- tions to early hass; and never in vain. Confessions, as rule are not made until after mass, and it often happens that the vicinity of the priests box be- comes a miniature field of battle. For this the dear creatures go prepared and accept their wounds as part of the pen ance for the Lords sake. Should the priest desire to favor some particular lady in the kneeling crowd, because of her delicate health, or her wealth, or for any other reason-he may beckon her to come at once to the window ahead Of others who had succeeded in forcing their way to the front. But it would be mistaken kindness on his part; for the envious sisterhood would commence vigorous warfare on the one thus favored by sly kink. scratches, pinches, even hair-pulling and bricks with pins. In this holy conflict no quarter Is given and no consideration shown; and the bruises and scratches received afford matter of pleasant con- versation for the day in the different circles of society, according to the number who have taken part in the p ous contention. The priest cannot be ignorant of what is going on; but it is said that the more arduous the struggle and numerous the combatants, the greater is the inward satisfaction, as evidencing the religious fervor of the penitents and his own popularity among them.
 The railroad house, which through the courtesy of the company was placed at the disposal of our party during the few days we were obliged to Wait m Sc lendo. is neat 's1na cnt- tage, enclosing a central garden and surrounded by blossoming trees and shrubs. It occupies charming site on an eminence overlooking the little pla- ga and commanding semi-circular ex- panse of ocean blue,' while from it's rose- -wreathed verandas and flowery patio the melancholy music of the breakers sounds forever in ones ears. The pretty casa, however, has history strange as sad. It was built by MT. John Thorndyke, the railroad man from Boston, when at the height of his pow CT in these parts. and was designed for his own occupancy. In the great din- ing room are handsome side-boards and elegant table service; the drawing room and numerous sleeping apart mcnts are large, airy and well appo.nte1 and all the windows open, French fash ion, to the floor of the encompassing verandas. Though so long deserted, everything about the premises is kept as spotlessly clean as on board a man.