The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1903-02-26

the l ltle OF New Book
In spite Of the many obituaries that
have been written for the shirt waist,
1t is still with us. Modistes who have
wanted a change in fashion because
the shirt waist is easy to make and
can be constructed at home have pro-.
phesied each season about this time
that the finish of the popular waist
is in sight, and each year when spring
is really here it is seen that the shirt
waist is again on deck.
This year 1t is the same, and the
only revenge that the fashionable tai
lors have is that the smart set" no
longer cares for shirt waists Last
year something of the same kind was
intimated, and yet many of the smart
girls wore shirt waists and looked bet
ter in them than in anything else 1t
is true that these waists have every
year grown more elaborate, until now
the original design is quite done away
with, and an embroidered shirt waist
is not inappropriate for festive occa-
siOEs.
bly, pretty girl looks remarkably chic
in q we'll fitting shirt waist. 1t is
pretty plain somebody who does not
look well in them. We are told by re-
liable authorities on this important
subject that this years models are
gone before; the points of difference
are wider shoulder effects, and more
fullness in the lower sleeve. The
latter is not a very welcome piece of
news, as the full sleeves have been car
ried to great extremes and are almost
as large as they used to be at the top.
Two modes of finishing the waists are
in vogue; one is the double fly down
the front, the other a box plat. These
fronts can be deliberately trimmed and
most of them have three large pearl
buttons. In this manner one can make
these waists as elaborate as one de-
sires. as very expensive buttons can
be purchased and the heiress can dec
crate hers with jewels if she wishes
However, the latter would be in eX-
Ceedingly poor taste.
Linen waists, which will be very
much worn, can be made with what
are known as Jester panels" vide,
pointed straps, radiating from the col
lar band over the shoulders and CIV
ing the yoke effect. Stitched bands
are also worn on these waists, but as
q rule the palmer they are the more
stylish. The girl who really dresses
and spends time and money on her
wardrobe will go to a firSt-class tailor
and have her shirtWaists made plainly;
but well. Half a dozen white waists
no enc who is any one wears colored
ones any more unless they are fine lin
age girl through the season. 1t Is bet
ter for economy'S sake to have them
laundered at home, for the steam
laundries wear shirt waists out sooner,
though they make them look much bet@
ter than the home laundress, unless
she is a professional The Alice Roose-
Welt waist has a sheath sleeve, piped
with plaid, and bishops stock collar,
and the Monte Carlo has wide pIaits
in the front, ending above the waist.
the sleeves, carrying out the plait eff
feet; these are commended for stout
women.
One of the strangest choirs in the
country is one that a clever woman
has recently trained in a Philadelphia
mad house. The choir, which consists
of fifteen women and perhaps a dozen
men, all hOpelessly insane, and most
of them dangerously so, with hOmi-
cidal and suicidal mania, is now pre-
pairing to give an Easter concert. So
we'll do these unfortunates sing that
they are quite in demand, and those
to whom their fame has reached will
go miles to hear them.
The conception of this scheme and
the carrying out of it are due to Mrs.
Hughes, who is the widow of the late
resident physician Of the Quaker CITY
asylum. Her achievement has requir-
ed Infinite patience, bravery and abtl-
ity. When 1T is known that the lead
er is in imminent danger of attack
from her choir at every rehearsal and
that several attendants are always
present when the lessons are given,
1T will testify to the courage it takes
for the undertaking.
But strange to say, these poor crea-
lures look forward to their hour Of
music as the greatest event of the
day, and their scattered wits have re-
Cetved the impression that If thew
II nr 10
VIII be rushed out of the room with
Scant ceremony. So it may be said
that they are on their good behavior
during the music.
One of the best singers belives him
Self to be divine; another thinks he is
John D. Rockefeller a third that he
can't speak, another is always trying
to kill himself. One Of the women be-
1ieves herself the wife of one of Phil
adelphtas most prominent citizens, and
has often to be appeased by an i'm
aginary present from him before she
Will sing. Still another has a most
unfortunate appetite for tacks. But
III the midst of all these difficulties
Mrs. Hughes has persevered, and now
has not only we'll trained choir, whose
music Is In every way excellent but
she has an orchestra as well. COM
posed Of men of the institution that
plays well and accompanies the choir.
Alienists all over the country have
been watching this experiment with
much interest, and have been con-
WINGED of the efficacy Of music as a
soothing influence for the insane.
Etiquette for All Occasions" is a
volume of rules for ones social life by
Mrs. Burton Kingsland, containing
nearly 500 pages of advice about par
ties, calls and other important femf-
nine matters. In speaking of the rath-
er arbitrary laws which govern the