Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-11-21
Table and Kitchen.
The Sweet Potato.

The use of the sweet potatoes or patata
antedates that of the Irish potato, and
yet the latter has not only taken its place
to a great extent, but has taken it's name
as we'll. The sweet potato was known and
eaten in England long before the introduce
ton of the Irish potato and was evidently
a very popular vegetable, as it is this par
ticular article which has been given place
in history by the immortal William, who
credits to that jovial king of good fellows,
that lover of all things the most material
the rotund Falstaff-the expressed desire
that the sky rain potatoes. presumably
that this vain-glorious, craven old gallant
might further crafty his sweet tooth with
new CONNECTIONS and sweets in the making
of which the potato was then chiefly EN-
ployed; for before and at the beginning OF
the white potato era the tuber was sell
dom If ever served other than as sweet
dish; a very good example being found
in the famous potato pie recipe of that
worthy, Mistress Hannah Wolley, and
among those contained in. her collection
known as the "queen-like closet or rlch
cabinet stored with all manner of rare re-
ceipts in preserving, candying and COOK
cry" The most estimable Mistress Wolley
directs US to have our pie dish and crust
ready and LAY in butter and then the po-
tatoes boiled very tender; sprinkle with
spice and marrow, blanched almonds, pis-
tachio, nuts, dates, candied lemon ana
orange peel and the pounded yolks of hard
boiled eggs. Close with a top crust and
bake. Serve with a sauce of wine, butter
and sugar Almost a century later the re-
nowned Mrs Glasse in her characteristic
manner also gives us a formula for po-
tato pudding which doubtless was most
savory, but certainly not a very hit ending
for q heavy dinner, containing in the COM
pound such ingredients as eggs, sugar, but
ter, spices, currants, sack, cream, etc
By slow degrees the English and Amer
lean cooks have come to an understanding
that the best use of the potato Is not IN
the making of a sweet dish, but to serve
as a savory or an accompaniment to meats.
Botanically the Irish and the sweet
potato are in no way reiated-the sweet
potatoes-batatas edulis-belonging to the
same family-convolvulus-of which the
tractive member. 1t Is allied to the COM
mon white potato by the similar nature OF
their component parts and relative 1000
value. Yielding about the same amount OF
proteid, they contain, perhaps, smaller
amount of starch, but are much richer in
sugar and gum. On account of the excess
of sugar they do not cook SO mealy, pelns
more mucila ginous than the white potato:
they are also more solid and fbrouS ana
most varieties require more cooking.
Because of their density and richness
they are not as easily digested as most
well-cooked, starchy foods, their particles
being more difficult to separate. The Gull
tivation of the sweet potato in this country
is confined to d rather limited territory, as
it is native of hot countries and does not
take overkindly to the colder parts in our
temperate climate. It's tropic nature makes
1t peculiarly a product of the south unless
we make an exception in favor of New
Jersey, a state producing a justly famed
variety of this vegetable, which is in season
from August to December. after this time
losing its flavor and finer qualities.
The sweet potato is said to be native
of the Malayan peninsula where it former
ly grew wild, and it is still made into
sweetmeats by the orientals. Preserved In
a clear syrup these are attractive and
most palatable preserves. The Japanese
dry the sweet potato and also produce
flour from the tuber. The drying process
has been tried in the southern states, but
with rather Indifferent success so far.
Selecting and Cooking Sweet Potatoes.
In selecting sweet potatoes choose those
of medium size firm, plump, smooth, thin
skinned and free from veinings. Do not
use those which show signs of sprouting.
These will cook watery and have poor fla
vor. Do not remove the skins until they
are done when the potatoes are to be cook
ed whole. Carefully wash ard wipe them
dry for roasting This Is the best method
of cooking them, especially when they are
well grown.
The large proportion of starch and sugar
makes the sweet potato a great heat pro-
Queer, and therefore most suitable food
for those whose work requires great ex-
penditure of physical strength and having
a good digestion.
The Yam.
This is the f1eshy tuberous root of a trop-
ical climbing plant, or ornamental vine of
the dioscorea family While it resembles
the sweet potato in appearance and taste
and is also a native Of hot countries, it Is
q mistake to class 1t with either tuber or
confuse 1t with the southern varities of
tie sweet potato, it having no relationship
botanically with either. 1t is coarser
and much larger, often growing to
an astonishing SIZE They are considered
fully as nutritious as the ordinary potato,
but are not cultivated to any very great
extent, being much better liked in the
south than by people of other sections Of
the country. A roasted yam is we'll worth
trying If cooked by an experienced and
knowing one from the ole souf."
Candied Sweet Potatoes.
Boil two pounds of sweet potatoes until
they can be peeled. Remove the SKINS If
large cut them in half and put them in
then pour a spoonful of molasses over
each and set in the oven and brown light
color.
Sugar-Bake Sweets.
Parboil four or five medium sized sweet
potatoes until you can remove the skins.
Cut in slices and place layer in the bot
tom of a baking dish: sprinkle thickly
with sugar, adding bits of butter. Fill the
dish up with these alternate layers of pota-
to, sugar and butter. Then nearly cover
the potatoes with hot water and set them
in the oven to bake for half an hour.
Sweet Potato Pyramids.
Boil or bake six large potatoes, and when
done peel or scoop out the contents. Sea-
son with salt, pepper and a tablespoonful