Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-09-08
NECRoMANcER OF THE KITCHEN.
A Wonder for Making Much Out of Lit
tie is the Cheap Restaurant Cook.

tie Is the Cheap Restaurant Cook.
From the New York Sum-
A visit to the kitchen of one Of the cheap
restaurants. say to one of the plain Ameri-
can variety as a sample. discloses how
much the everyday Yankee restaurant cook
can bring out of little. A look at the bill
OF fare before penetrating into the realm
OF the necromancer who juggles with the
edibles In the rear will increase the WON
der. There are listed four or five different
KINDS or soup, as many perhaps Of fish,
half dozen roasts. an ample array of
made dishes. pies and puddings and all the
vegetables. canned or fresh, in ordinary use
anywhere.
Any one who did rot know might suppose
that to cook and keep ready in quantities
such an array of dishes would REQUIRE an
immense range. several cooks and plenty
OF space. In reality the kitchen is no bigger
or Is even smaller than that Of an ordinary
house. and one or at most two assistants
to wash dishes are all the one plain Yankee
cook REQUIRES.
suppose walter comes with an order for
vegetable soup. The cook lifts the lid of
Dig boiler of clear soup. made by boiling
bones and scraps Of beef. mutton, chicken
and veal together. Out of this he dips a
bowl of soup. and into the bowl he pops
in quick succession a little from each pot of
OOAACo Sc6etdpleS he Is serving Tor that day,
He gives 1T all a stir. and presto! there is
your vegetable Soup
For all the orders for soup that come in
the cook goes first to the big boiler Is it
consommef From big pitcher the cook
pours into the clear stock some brown
thicken1ng fluid Is 1t macaroni? A Dot of
boiling water Is near at hand and he forks
few strings into the bowl. Is 1t oxtail?
A big tin of condensed oxtail soup stands
on a handy shelf. and spoonful lends its
flavor to the stock Is It chicken? He
thrusts a pair Of tongs into the boiler and
brings up morsels from the depths until
enough scraps Of chicken are found to pass
muster. Is it tomato? A squirt of weak
but thick tomato catsup does the business
See the cook lift that magic wand of his
which looks SO much like carving knife
Roast lamb and roast mutton come from
the same Joint at his touch: and by the aid
OF little sauce and some jelly SO will roast
venison at a pinch. Roast rib or roast loin
from the same piece of beef depends alto
gether on his carving. Veal is veal, or 1t
is chicken for salad. or it is turkey for
fricassee. or 1t Is rabbit for stew or it is
lamb for pie. Just as he desires.
The plain old Goldfish too If boiled Is
turned into boiled halibut. or haddock, or
bluefish. and If baked becomes baked hall
but, or bluefish. or paddock. At his mere
touch. with the aid Of a few biting sauces.
they become almost anything one can name
in the way of fish.
When 1t comes to desserts. the distinction
between fruit cake and plum pudding is
with him only the difference between hot
and cold. and vaniShes before the blast
from his oven. Boiled rice-frequently call
ed upon for curry-wtth milk. sugar and a
little nutmeg, is straightway rice pudding.
Tapioca and sago come out of the same
dish 1t is wonder how he remembers
all the names he calls his cottage pudding,
You may talk about the French or Ital-
ian chef. but the Yankee knows a few
tricks Of the trade. too.