The daily journal. (Salem, Or.) 1899-1903, 1903-10-17

was IN millinery effects where there
was a better chance OF getting II
away from the face by massing bunch
es OF bluettes around the crown or at
the back OF the brim. The effort tc
reproduce the tint in velvet. which
has not met with success until this
season. is doubly commendable, be.
cause the cold metallic lustre has
been softened considerably and with
few touches Of lace of white it is
possible for almost anyone to wear
bluet velvet gown.
A somewhat ornate design has the
skirt trimmed with bands Of the same
shade taffeta stitched on to simulate
hounced effect. there being appar
emily three Of the founces. A plait-
ed velvet skirt is rather a daring ad.
venture even for a slender figure but
such was successfully accomplished
in this toilette. The plaits extend all
around the waist. but are stitched
very fiat.
The bodice is close fitting and is
plated above a deep girdle to meet
yoke laid in transverse folds of
bluet satin. Bordering the girdle in
clerical effect are bands of blue and
white embroidery touched here and
there with duh orange. while the bor-
der of the embroidery is of a lighter
shade OF blue. Medallions of rich
cream lace are appliqued over the
embroidery. The tops Of the sleeves
are trimmed with lace and embroid
cry and below the elbow the full nuffs
are caught into a tight-ftting plated
cuff. bound with stitchings of silk
used to trim the skirt
A Louis XIII silk beaver hat trim.
med with black plumes completes the
costume
It would be difficult to find anything
prettier than the plaid cheviots which
are the most formidable rival of vel
vet for street gowns Those in two
or three shades Of the same color arc
extremely effective. Especially is this
true Of the blue-greys An important
walking dress of steel blue has a
deeper blue plaid threaded through il
so closely that the lighter tone is
scarcely preceptible. The contrast is
marked by a nappy silk cord of black
running through the cheviot defining
a larger square than that outlined by
the darker blue.
The skirt is made quite plain about
the hips and Ats faultlessly. Around
the bottom 1t is finished with a soil.
tary fold OF the same material piped
whit velvet. Above the knees the
fiounce is headed with three rather
wide applied tucks, but the velvet
piping is not repeated here.
The blouse has only a medium
deep hip flounce. and this Is trimmed
simply with a stitched fold Of the
cheviot The girdle is of steel blue
satin faced cloth stitched with black
silk braid. Il is rather narrower than
most OF the belts seen just now and
clasped at the front with a handsome
blue and gold enameled buckle.
A distinctive feature of the blouse
is a shoulder trimming Of very open
work braid stitched over blue tatreta
This extends from the collar over the
shoulder seam and down the sleeves
10 the elbow. where It is finished with
silk passamenterle. Medalllons OF tho
same braid, finished with large but
tons matching the buckle on the cir.
die adorn the blouse front. Below
the elbow sleeves are made in fun
puffs with three tucks and gathered
into a cum OF braided cloth. An er.
mine toque trimmed with blue silk
and ostrich pompons is worn with the
gown.
Although II is somewhat too pro
nounced for entire gowns. orange is
color that will be very much worn
this season. One sees it on many OF
the smart waists, hats and garnitures,
especially where white or brown pre-
dominates Nothing makes a more
effective lining for the exquisite nut
shades than orange taffeta.
A handsome separate bodice OF |
white chiffon generously trimmed |
with thread lace has a dainty bertha
effect fastened at the front with a