Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-07-04

At over the hips. It has a wide graduated
fiounce around the bottom trimmed By
seven rows of the pin tucks-this time run
ming around the skirt. The head of the
fiounce is hidden by a six-inch band of tho
applique work. This is of the dotted Swiss
i'm n leaf pattern. The leaves are set on
a foundation of sheer white linen. and are
outlined by narrow white braid or cord.
The leaf appliques are further ornamented
with French knots worked In white. The
full blouse waist has the lower part of the
pouch front formed by a wide band of tho
applique work. running crosswise IL has
round cape collar and a short standing
collar of the applique. The loose elbow
sleeves are finished by band of the ap-
plique work. The effect of the leaf APP
pliques as they fall over the white arm be-
meath is very good
A white Swiss dotted In green makes a
gown of cool appearance The whole up-
per half of the blouse waist Is laid in pin
tucks running vertically. These allow tho
fullness to escape below the low bust line
for the pouch Of the front On either side
both front and back, bands OF batiste en-
broidery In shaded green and white ex-
tend from shoulder TO waist line band
of the insertion forms the low standing
collar. The skirt has the pin tucks over
the hips. Clusters of them alternate with
short bands of the embroidery Insertion
giving a hip yoke effect. The graduated
| founce is similarly tucked and inserted
| for half its width and is headed by a band
of the insertion.
Swiss and Irish Lace
A "West End" suit of dotted Swiss and
| Irish crochet lace is effective. The tight-
fitting skirt has diagonal tucks meeting
up the front. This necessitates a seam
| down the front. which is hidden by an in
! sertion of the Irish crochet The tucks
| are in clusters of three and are spanned
| at graduated heights by short bands of
| the insertion. The skirt Is further trimmed
around the bottom by a group OF triple
| tucks. The waist has a shallow rounded
yoke of the lace. The fullness over the
| bust is managed by groups of short tucks.
| These alternate with short bands of inser-
| ton. The sleeves are tucked lengthwlse
| to below the elbow. where they wbiden out
| into puffs. The cuffs deep and tight
| fitting. They are formed of tucks and in
sertion, running around the arm.
Another white gown comes under ths
| head of what is known a lingerie
| frock" Which, being interpreted means
| that tne whole gown. shirrings. embroideries
and seams Is done by hand. This repre-
| sents the height of the seasons eXtrava-
gance And yet the effect is that of sim
plicity 1t may deceive the masculine eye.
| but femininity will appraise IL at its true
worth. 1t Is fashioned I'm sheerest linen
| batiste. A four-inch shirring runs around
| the top of the skirt Below this the skirt
| irregularly with dots, and bordered by a
| chain of embroidered wheels and pin tuck
ings The waist is mounted sheer lin
| ing stiffened with featherhone, which also
supports the high stock collar. The waist
is shirred. 1t has deep cape collar
| formed of alternate rows of shirring and
hand embroidery. The shirred sleeves puff
| over the elbow. and are ornamented with
| the embroidered wheels. There deep
cuffs of alternate shirring and embroidery.