Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-10-17
yer bangles and q turban, and one or two
had on turquoise rings.
At RAlay Stations

AS the shafts OF our rickshaws were gen.
tly lowered at our arrival at each little mud
village four pairs Of slippers with turned-up
pointed toes were produced from some
where at the back Of the carriage and put
on by the coolies who had done their six
miles. and four other pairs of slippers were
tucked away neatly for further use by the
Ialieo TO give us amusement; then the
shafts were carefully lifted and the four
pairs OF bare feet trotted off at full speed.
The rfckshaw may be an agreeable mode
or travel in fiat countries, or down on the
plains. but used in billy parts, where the
coolies run down hill at full speed unless
checked with much shouting and great Sc
verify, they certainly cannot be considered
comfortable and are hardly pleasant for a
nervous person. as. If the coolies fell the
carriage would inevitably shoot over the
edge. or capsize.
Such accidents have been known to occur
on that very road. At o'clock of the sec
ond day after a drive through the most
beautiful and romantic scenes possible to
imagine we were taken up the last steep
hill and into the hill station. Dalhousie-at
least one can hardly say into it. as there Is
little to be seen Of the town. all the houses
being smothered in trees, and the one street
of shops a lovely lane with three or four
shops at an interval of half a mile or more
each.
A City on Hills.
built rise like easy stairs. Patrain. the low
est. on which are a good hotel. the Catholic
church and a number of Villas with larga
gardens; Terah. the next at the foot Of
which lie the post office and English
church, and lower and upper Bakrotch. the
most attractive OF all to live on, and the
highest.
The cantonments. containing fine stone
buildings. and near by a pretty club house
fn1I n md haln
ihe view from the two Bakrotahs is. we
think. the most beautiful we have ever seen
ON one side the great masses of the Him
alayas, thickly wooded to the top and on
the other, lower hills, narrow valleys. and
iar away the great plains with four rivers
ike silver threads in the distance.
More Rain and Mist.
It was pouring rain and the hills envel
oped in mist as we came up to the first
hotel and there we were promptly told that
not room was vacant so we had to order
our dripping coolies on to the next. a mile
further along
Ihey IN the meantime had unwound their
nine yards of dirty white turban and
swathed their heads and bodies carefully
In the folds, appearing like animated mum
mics as they trotted along with our rick
shd"S. NOT room was 10 be had so full
was the station. owing to the floods in
hashmir and the popularity of the place.
except one small one at private boarding
mouse, which We were only too glad to take.
ana IN which we had to remain for two
days. " wv
AT at that night the four ekkas, with
our luggage, crept slowly up as close to the
mousse as possible, and thirteen coolies
climbed the hillside and deposited our bags
and bundles in the verandah, all dripping
wet. even the saddles, alas: but in spite Of
everything we felt that we had cause to
congratulate ourselves that we had at last
reached the end of our long and firing
journey. MARGARET STIRLING