The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-12-27

much disguised The sO-called English
taiormade is marked severity and straight
lines. The nj and hang are excellent.
There IS no suggestion of sloppiness. a
noticeable feature is the sleeves, which
are smaller than anything permitted else
where. This of itself is enough TO mark
these gowns especial type. Their
usual finish for collar and cuffs is the sim
plest of velvet usually black. At the other
extreme are tailor gowns Of the sort styled
French several years ago. They were then
deliberately trimmed and now are so lavish
~ embellished that pretty much all the
characteristics OF tailor finish are disguised.
Some examples are overdone in this par
ticular. Ranging between these are less
strongly marked types in considerable
diversity Scanning the entire field. shows
that few kinds Of tailor gowns are not rep
resented. One notable exception is the fur
trimmed tailor suit. This seems not TO
be in favor with fashOnables who expend
much for trimmings. nevertheless, for APP
plication to soft and delicate stuffs TO be
handled by the dressmaker. This means
that the tailor rig should be worn with
furs, so the possession of a tailormade is
more an extravaganza than ever, since it
makes necessary to complete stylishness
the ownership of a set of good furs.
Mannish finish to tailor suits is restricted
to walking suits and to gowns for women
who are Indifferent to being thought indie
pendent Of fashions decree. The walking
get-ups may be the limit of mannishness. IL
the wearer wants them that way, but even
without excruciations OF such finish they
look severe enough. Their goods, TO begin
with is Of rough-and-ready look. and on it
of trimming seems severe. Street tailor
gowns are Ornamented moderately,
rule. and some are trimmed deliberately.
Since dressy uses of the tailor gown have
become restricted during the past year, the
freely trimmed examples are much fewer
than they were last winter. One such
model appears in the first OF the accom-
panying pictures. 1t was purple cloth fin
ished with black braid fringe and buttons.
More numerous types are shown at the left
and right of the second illustration. These
gowns were. respectively. blue velvet and
passementerie of the same shade and blue
mohair sicilian self-trimmed with stitched
bands. As if to make UP for the lessened
trimmings. fashionable choosers of such
costumes elect for rather striking colorings.
So many blue or green dress that is plain
in it's makeup will hold it's own beside
snowy Celebrations just because of the as
sertiveness of its cOoring. Red shades
have like effect. but blue and green count
newer.
great many tailor suits show fringe
trimming. but because of the rule for les
sened ornamentaiton the fringe usually is
of moderate width and in small quantity.
Stitching is a standby. and may be in a
color TO match the goods or in a color a
shade or two either darker or lighter.
Strong contrasts between stitching and ma
terial are not indorsed. and this cuts out a
great many OF the more snowy uses of such
finish. Moderate use of embroidery is made
in tailoring. too. and mOhair and silk braids
are standard mediums.
AS coats and wraps are a field in which
makers put their best foot forward. il is
here that tailoring shows to especially fine
advants ge So much in wraps is rich and
elaborate that it might be expected that
tailors would come in with severely plain
offerings But no; their coats, while usu-
ally free from excessive elaboration usual
~ are trimmed prettily, and unrelieved
plainness is rare to seem almost
freakish. A good showing of their output
is given herewith by the artist. In rear
view in the first large picture is seen tam