Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-05-09
T RENCH LIN GERiE
Bedecked With Much and
Finest Hand Work.
IN EMPIRE FASHION
CREATIONS IN NAINSooK AND
LINEN.
Pompadour Silks, Plaids and Pongees-
New Silk Petit
coats.


| The lingerie now displayed in the French
shops will be widely initiated, for hand
! work is its keynote. and fine stitches can
| be the property of no exclusive country or
epoch. Rather they are the result of skill
| and time.
| Among the display of feminine daintiness
| the silk garments are the first to attract
| the eye. Never were they in such abund-
| ance and variety. The combina ton of pale
pink, blue or snowy white China wash silk
| with flmy laces is a particularly happy
| one, and is the more frequently to be met
| with.
| The craze for coarse thread laces does
I, not obtain in the field of silk lingerie, so
| that Valenciennes continues to be en- resle
! Fine silk thread 1aces are also appliqued,
but they are not for practical uses, as they
| are apt to yellow in the washing. This
| however would be no defect in the eyes of
| some extremists who incline to the creamy
| yellow laces. But though corn color seems
| to have invaded every sanctum this spring,
| the world of woman will cling, as whole,
to the pure white laces.
Empire Fashions.
| In the case of both the silk robe de. mutt
and the chemise the empire fashions are
| largely followed. The empire yoke Is al
| most invariably formed of solid lace inser-
| ton, whose filmy meshes scarcely veil the
| white skin beneath. The elbow sleeves are
| closely inserted with the lace. From the
elbow a flowing ruff1e of solid insertion usu-
| ally falls to depth of five or six inches
| The effect is extremely graceful. From the
| yoke the fullneSS of the skirt is arranged
| in vertical tucks running to depth Of
| three or four inches. although the soft tex
| ture of the silk readily lends itself to silken
| folds or gathers
! In the absence of lace, hand embroidery
| in silk of the same shade is feature
| Sprays of embroidered flowers almost en-
| tirely cover the empire yoke or ornament
| its frequent accompaniment-the short
| pointed rever which is generally lace edged
| Indeed, lace and embroidery are in fire.
| quent conjuncture.
| Wide satin ribbon. with a central line
| of lace insertion, from under which the RIB
| bon has been cut is an innovation in both
| the silk and linen lingerie In the corset
| covers it is used in vertical stripes with
| charming effect. In the skirts it can be
used to even better purpose The satin gloss
| of the ribbon gives richness while the sheer
| insertion gives relief from heaviness.
Very Fetching, These.
The silk peignoirs are particularly fetch
| ing. They are literally mass of lace and
| insertion. One creation in pale blue silk
| had the yoke and sleeves of solid lace in
sertion. The fullness Of both front and
|
was furnished by inserted triangles of the
silk. The ruffle the elbow obtained its
| fullness in the same manner.
| Another silk peignOir more severe.
| The square neck was finished by band of
| heavy silk insertion. Similar pieces of in
| sertion banded the yoke in Grecian fash
| ion and finished the short tight fitting
| sleeves.
The nainsook and linen lingerie is scarce
| ly more reasonable in price than the silk
| ic INST att nfi1y
| Ribbon garnitureS are more elaborate. The
| gathering ribbons are as much in evidence
| as possible and ribbons are everywhere in
| serted for no other purpose than that of
| adOrnment ChouX of narrow ribbons,
| whose ends are tied in sweet-pea bows, fire.
| quently give finish to the front of the
corset cover or robe de mutt, stud the
| top of the skirt founce
The hem in which the inserted ribbon
| runs is frequently formed of the sheerest
| of lace insertion, through which the shade
| of the ribbon is plainly dscernible, or in
| the case of the skirt, the ribbon is only an
| ornament kept in place by being inserted
| at intervals under the vertical bands of
| lace insertion.
Stand the Washing.
| But linen embroideries, neither hand or
| machine made seem to accord best with
| the linen lingerie. Certain it is that they
| best withstand the attacks of the blanch-
| euSe de fin Where hand embroidery is
used both the edges of the armholes and
neck are buttonholed. The ribbon inserting
is run through worked eyelets. These are
| about two three inches apart giving
abundant space for the fullness to be gath
cred in, and also for the touch of contrast
| ing color which the ribbon furnishes.
Some of the nainsook corset covers are
merely pieces of wide embroidery, followed
out trif1e under the arms, and gathered
in at the waist line into band of en-
broidery insertion. Narrow ribbons run
through the open spaces in the top of the
embroidery and manage the fulness across
the bust. Wider ribbons of the same shade
tie above the arms and keep the waist in
position.
The lace used on the linen lingerie is of
| coarse thread Flower patterns with
raised petals are effective especially for
edging ruffies. They help to give the ruffie
the irregular effect now so much sought
after. Shaped ruffies, edged with lace are
used on the skirt, one above the other, CIV
ing the appearance of pillows Of lace. An
extremely dainty lace ruffie or founce ten
inches deep, is formed of row upon row of
Valenciennes lace, stitched one above the
other, and giving the effect Of a solid piece
| of lace.
In Black and White.
In the realm of the silk pettcoat are some
charming new designs in black and white
Medalions of black lace are scattered over
the ruffle of one white silk creation. 1t Is
stitched in black and the ruffle is edged
with black lace.
Another skirt has the ruffle of alternate
vertical insertions of black and white lace
cut out in scallops, and finished with mar
row alternate rulings of the black and
white lace.
Pompadour silks mark the height of ele-
gance in silk petticoats. Such Is the beauty
of the silk that most of them are I'M
trimmed except by rulings and ruchings
Of the same. The most elaborate have ap-
piled founces Of white cream colored
net.
Among the more serviceable petticoats
for every day wear are the plaid silks. They
come in every conceivable color combina-
ton and are generally trimmed by ruchings
Of black.
The craze for pongee has extended even
to the petticoat. Skirts made from this
fabric are intended to be washable and,
therefore, are simple in style. The pref
test have narrow ruff1es, whose edges are
embroidered In silks of contrasting shade
The Craze for Green Stones.
nj IN