New-York tribune., 1903-04-12
IT'S THE TRIHMING.
Materials Are a Secondary Conssd-
Grafton an Paris Just Noe.
Paris. April 4.

Paris. April4.
In discussing a dress nowadays. the trimming
be of more Importance than the material;
in fact the dress often built TO the trimming
as 10 q sort of background. The great majority OF
dress goods used sombre ard quiet in effect
witness the large amount Of putty and tan shades
in evidence but they gorgeously adorned When
panels Of fancy silk are inset with lace which Is
embroidered it REQUIRES rather monotonOus back
ground 10 stand such lavislness Indeed, the
couturiers rarely speak Of trimming gown; they
speak OF making il up building it Of several
things. lace. embroidery and passementerie not
being the least important items
The use of shot and shaded silks Is growing There
beautiful shaded ribbons that make mp into DE-
lightful draped belts for hat bows The shaded
ribbons are particularly effective draped. but they
are lot used as panels and hands on voile gowns.
A gown Of grayish blue yelling has both skirt and
bodice trimmed with tiny stitched bands Of a silk
shading from blue TO pink. every band finished with
little tassel Of Varfegated silk. The bodice shows
deep pelerine inset with grayish lace squares and
peppered over with HUE tassels. The fun sleeves
gather into high. close cuffs OF, lace and silk
trimmed with tasseis.
The shot and shaded effects are Just popular
in millinery. A good many turbans- Of burnt straw
dented in with large bow of fancy ribbon
and have no other trimming. While in regard 10
dresses trimmings seem important than ma
terisl the reverse may be stated as true Of hats.
The straw. whatever material or materials used
making the shape is the conspicuous item. There
shaded and shot effects in straw. There arc
coarse straws mixed with fine straws and with
lace earlier is using sort OF zibeline cord TO
with straw 10 good effect At one Of the
smart English houses here they have walking
fine mixed straw in several colors. trim
med with embroidered bands. the kim Of bands
one might q linen shrtwaist. These are lit
tie oddities. Of course but they happen be
very pretty ones.
LITTLE oLDTIMEA BQNNETS.
The rniIIiners are showing bonnets-srilaf close.
old fashioned bonnets-fastened with strings that
cross under TIE chin and pin. not tie. Who will
them is the question Certainly the mid
Ole aged matrons for whom they were once in
tended. There lot OF small modest teques.
trimmed simply. with single bird or, as
said before, with a handsome bow. The three
cernored shapes are unusually popular and some
made very small Of knotted and twisted
straws. One Of the shapes. the Marquis comes
with absolutely trimming The fat shapes are
stin seen but they are lifted very high by means
Of trimming put under the brirn. that they are
really fat al all ard may be trusted to give
height to the figure. There are lot of |
unusual flowers used this year. fuchsias, for one
and very tiny. dne roses Birds are much used
the models for sUmrne1 hats.
An idea that good many people believe in and !
which seems TO be rapidly gaining followers Is
that Of keeping the bodice whether it Toe blouse
dress bodice IS soft and as ''boueless' as !
possible When bones used a all they II |
the fsatherlone variety, that gives with every /
rncv.nsit CT the Hearel. tall slender girl was !
dining At the Ritz the other night in high necked
gown Of embroidered linen The gown /
mass Of embroidery and openwork done in white !
and linen colored floss and about The waist was i
soft girdle Of cloth Of gold The remarkable part
Of the dress the loose nj. the slender body /
could literally have turned about under The lining
Of the blouse. This certainly tends to graceful I
movements. and. women 80 tightly /
corseted and strapped down below the waist 10 (
The up-to-dste corset. with its long hip pieces AMI
.gnt gsTlsrs hack "a aao slat ana tIoil( @ tehqs To
only comfortable when standing perfectly erect. /
nut II tends alse toward making her stun The !
latest material for coTssJs by the way. thin.
very soft silk shot. changeabe printed in soft.
The French dressHa kers certainly do wonders |
stout women can wear them and look as well per |
hsps better. than in pain skirt OF course. they
Ea,r5e5 v-ifr, > GOOD b91t bI5 no mems llerI @S,ra
L--i = ~ - -
bout the hivs and trimmed with two deep founces
shirred on cord. These hounces were edged with
narrow bands Of chinch3la The low necked bodice
shrred at the TOP. the top Of the sbrring
2 yoke Of guipure on the front Of the decolle-
OF blue SIX cord WITH ine hanging balls Of the fur
a similar ornament held the soft Liberty silk sash
=, bs1f y-av 20 tbe ebovs aYd Eta,e &c atp.rS ~
agein into 6eep. close Guns Of the heavy lace
ana ieeT collars or pelerincs vhiehever one pre-
fers call them, but there is considerable variety
fn skirts Some are built in several etages ex-
me- sen gown 81 Tptt, -oiored ,,eile en- I'd ~
siashes about the bottom and showing the drop ID |
skirt made zith circular hounce % shot blue aud
Skirt are eTnbroidered with \ erstw-r design aud
green and blue thread and the collar on the bodice !
shot six skirts pleated in the sunburzt s;lIc are
They are hard enough TO hold up best; hat the,
sna more apparenf This itrner nogln - ~ e1r'l
out Sc becoming The material is very pale Bu.
burst fashion ard finished al the bottom 6y . Dor
Ter Of delicate Aaee- The belt is an embroidered !