The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-03-21
WRAPS FOR THE SEASON
SPRING COATS AND JACKETS IN
VARIETY TO SUIT ALL TASTES.
Long and Short, Tight Fitting and
Loose, and Made of Many Kinds
of Material.

ETY. OF shapes, styles and materials, but are
uniform in being attractive and smart in
the extreme All lengths, all styles, all
weights are shown. Never has such perfect
provision been made for all needs. Fair
weather and foul, warm days and cool, the
carriage and the promenade, daytime and
evening-all have been remembered, and
all are to be met with just the correct coat.
The one distinguishing feature OF the
season is fiat necks. Many collarless de-
signs are seen, numbers of stoles are worn
and capes frequently appear. but, whatever
the hnish may be, it is kept fiat, the neck
is so cut that the stock worn with the gown
appears above its edge. Severe tailor mod
els show the regulation lapels and collar,
but the more elaborate coats are much
varied as to finish. Materials are of many
sorts. Cloth, i'll all its ferns. is much used,
and cheviot holds its place, but in addition
10 these familiar stand-bys. we are offered
etamine. silk. pongee and canvas. 1t would
seem as though every possible condition had
Deen borne in mind. The Examines are quite
new, used in this way, and are delightful,
as they provide just the weight and warmth
that mean comfort on a mild spring day.
Silks have become familiar, but are shown
In new forms and are ideally comfortable,
as Innings can be made light or heavy as
required. Cloth is offered in mixtures as
well as plain colors and in grays and blues,
as well as the familiar black and tan. Pom
gee gee Is tempting fabric for summer s. wear
silk only or interlined as circumstances
may demand.
PROFESSIONALLY the blouse jacket is the
garment of the season for street wear.
While Monte Carlo, tight and half-ftting
coats will be worm the blouse is the favorite
and predominates them all for general use.
Some have long tunics attached, some are
finished at the belt, but the greater number
are made with basque portions that cover
the hips. Capes are feature and are much
used, although plain styles are quite correct.
With them is either a stole at the neck or
a fiat collar. The stoes are almost ubiqui-
tous and are very generally becoming, but
simple plain necks will be used during the
later season. when 1t will have become gen.
timely warm. Black makes the favorite,
and, indeed, general color but ii is varied
by the trimmings and Innings. Cloth is not
apt to be color trimmed, but etamne is
rendered singularly effective by being made
over white or with stole of some rich Chin
tai embroidery.
MORE ELABORATE COSTUMES.
Again. this pliable material is often COM
bined with lace or applique. A really ele-
CANT jacket is laid in tucks arranged to
give a box-plaited effect, and is smooth
| and without fullness at the back but is
made with loose fronts that are cut off in
| Elton style and hang over heavy cluny
lace laid over the silk lining. The sleeves
are tucked and form full puffs at the
wrists where they are finished with cuffs
| of lace. AT the neck is matching stole
| and to the narrow belt is attached a shall
| low basque. second blouse of etamine
| is made over white. silk and shows two
tiny capes of the material with a stole of
| needework in black and white. Univer-
| sally the sleeves are large and full at the
| wrists. The etamine lends itself to tucks
| and plaits without bulk, and is so used,
| but cloth is more often kept plain or fin
ished with applied straps stitched on to
simulate plaits. Collars of heavy lace or
white than black or colored.
The silk blouses are in themselves a
study. For spring wear they are of taffeta
or peau de sole. lined, and are made elab-
crate with stoles of lace and the like, but
those designed for summer of taffeta
and are unlined, making the one thickness
of silk only. When one reflects upon the
vicissitudes of our summers one remembers
that no matter how warm the day some
light protection is essential. Under many
conditions these last seem veritable boon
In the days before geDtlewomen went into
the streets without wraps, silk coats or
sacques of similar weight We're common
but in recent years We have been bereft
of their comfort and left to choose be-
tween no wrap. an always dstasteful
state, and one of excessive warmth These
charming blouses have come to fill the need
and delightful. For the most part they
are simply made, with fiat little capes and
strap or Monte Carlo collars, and are fin
ished with machine stitching. Loose or
Monte Carlo coats are many For the car
riage or for evening wear they are ideal
Nothing more satisfactory could be asked
bodice worn beneath. They can be slipped
on and off with ease. But / wish il were
possible to limit their wearing upon the
street. Tall, slender women, in long-skirt-
ed gowns. are able to bear the test and
look well, but could the short and the
stout sisterhood be given the gift Ito see
themselves as others see them" their num-
Der would be curtailed the instant
Those OF white, oyster gray and cham
payne colored cloth are exquisite and will
be greatly used for afternoon driving over
the fashionable white gowns. II general
cut and style they have undergone little
II any change: Many of them elab-
orately lace trimmed and for the purpose
cluny and antique laces are freely used
but know of nothing quite so handsome
as that Of heavy wool known as Yak In
its latest development IL includes rings
after the manner of the Renaissance and
is really exceedingly elegant and chic Fa-
vorite coats are made with fiat capes and
show lace capes lace applique or insertion
down the fronts or round the lower edge
Slightly more serviceable models are of
the white cloth with touches of color A
stylish example of this last is piped with
pale blue at edges of capes, collar and
cuffs. and is finished with tiny revers of
blue silk overlaid with white maltese lace
Another shows dark blue used in a similar
manner and making the strap collar and
cuffs: Newer coats are. of canvas and
etamine, lace trimmed and over white silk
and are in demand for later use
COATS FOR SERVICE.
The more practical coats are of cloth in
black, in tan, in gray and in mixtures and
in black canvas etamine. One novelty is
blue and white cheviot with trimming of
blue cloth; another is gray cheviot and
still another is brown with fiecks of white
the trimmings all being plain brown The
coats of etamine are delightful. They are
light in weight. yet sufficiently warm and
give a most satisfactory effect over the
Innings of lustrous black silks. In common
with the cloth and silk models they are
variously trimmed and finished but always
show the peculiarly rich black of the ma
terial Silk coats are many and are made
AS TO the younger contingent taffeta and
peau de sole are the favorites lace black
and white the preferred trimmings An
exceedingly handsome model for a woman
of advanced years is made with yoke TO
which is attached the sacque. which is laid
in closely overlapping side plats AT the
neck is stole of black gupure and the
trimmed with the lace. The yoke only is
lined so that the least possible weight is
involved and only moderate warmth
Palmer models are boX-plaited al the back
but otherwise are plain and are trimmed
with broad bands of black lace. The same
style is worn by younger women with
cream lace as trimming or black over white
Pongee coats are new and are charming
The plated model just described is much
liked and. becomes youthful in the prettv
soft tan OF the natural color. Regulation
Monte Carlo models, too. are seen and
trimmings are Oriental embroidery and the
beautiful heavy laces for which the season