Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-12-02
PENANG AND ENVIRONS
SCENES IN A BUSY TOWN OF THE
FEDERATED MALAY STATES.
How 'Riksha and Gharry Coolies Bid
for "Fares''-Steam Trans and
Bullock Wagons.

Approaching Penang from the sea one
describes the wooded hills that overlook the
busy little town and regiments of palm
trees deIneating tine coast of Province
Wellesley.
Landing at the new jetty from a Chinese
or Indian sampan. numerous 'riksha and
gharry men compete for hire. There are
some 5000 vehicles of this description in
Penang. and hardly dozen seem alike
The rikkIes are iacquered with bold figures
of dragons and horses, birds and butter
flies: their shafts OF black wood bound
with brass or white metal, and so strong
that the stalwart coolie sits upon them
with fety when awaiting his fare. There
is only coolie Chinese but he is
strong. patient and long suffering, and runs
any distance from 100 yards up to five
miles like a young colt in a frizzling sun or
torrential rain.
Steam trans running along the water
front pass numerous bullock wagons con-
Veying merchandise newly landed from
cargo boats. Following the line an evil
smelling open drain is reached. The rails
branch of here and pursue an inland course
to terminal called Aver Etam (black
stream). some four miles or so distant. A
beautiful Buddhist temple. styled Kek Lok
SEE. is to be seen the hills from this
vicinity. and is well worth visit. 1t is not
yet completed. and another three years
must elapse before the finishing touches are
put to Ii.
Mud Houses-Open Sewers.
Penang briefly. Is a primitive looking ORR
entail town. with mud-built dwarflsh. col
lapsible uhe inhabitants can thank their
stars for the mild climate) red-tiled houses:
open sewers along the roadsides, emitting
an unbearable stencil and necessita ting
bridges to the doors of houses (some-but
very few-of these drains are flushed nv
an inflow from the harbor at high tide):
out-of-repair. Iairly-kept streets and side
walks prominent by their absence-where
there are pavements they are so INSTRUCTED
with lumberage, warehOuSing and vendors.
stalls a. to be impa ssa BILE
Some five miles from town are the we'll
Kept botanical gardens. containing a rare
variety oil trees, the preservation of which
iS placed prior in importance TO having an
adequate water supply
portion OF the ground would but for
sehtimentahsm of high order have long
s'hce Deen utilized for reservoirs to suDpIe-
ment the present very insufficient storage
But lt was pity to spoil our lovely gar
dens. very pretty waterfall Is to be seen
almost at the summit of the hillside at the
1901 OF which the gardens are situated At
the foot of this is the Penang water sunnIv
wmch, 10 the casual observer, looks for all
Ihe world like a little duck pond MANY a
iarni YARD at home having much bigger
one Inc gardens are separated from Pc
nang town by road fringed with Shattered
houses Q<ipling describes them half breed
between an Indian bungaloo and a Raneoon
rabbit hutch) fighting with the preenerv
anu crotohs as big as small trees Now and
again there blazes to the front of some
paiatial Chinese residence all open-work
Fermilfon. black. blue. yellow and. gold.
with huge Chinese lanterns over tho Goor
ways and glimpses of quantity cut shrubs
IN The well kept gardens in front of and
behind the edfice. :
some roads are fringed with Malay houses
on piles, Swallowed by the everlasting cocoa
nut palms heavy with young nuts
Morn and Eve.
r Like other tropical localities, Penang is
most Agreeable In the early morn and dewy
eve. ihe air is never invigorating though.
except at the summit of Penang HILL This
IS accessible only by "shanks' mares or in
dilapidated apologies for Chinese sedan
chairs. The ascent is steep, but deliciously
Cooi AR IS the reward to the overheated
uaNeier- Inc Penangites of olden times,
Win ifeApllcaDie taste, seem to have pre-
ferred the scorching mud fiat for a hill
railway like the one at Hongkong has only
Just been definitely decided on. 1t will con-
fer great boon on the community. The
electric light, too, is only now being intro
duced. whereas it should have been en- evil
dence years ago, not only as an iIuminant
but for the propulsion of tram cars. etc
The Asiatic Quarter.
In the strictly Asiatic quarter of the
town, and 1t Is mostly So at night the hot
fetid air Is pregnant with discordant
sounds-there Is a dull roar of many human
beings talking. shouting singing passing
10 and fro; the tuneless twang- of the Chi
nese lutte. the thrum and pulse Of distant
drums and tomtoms, the shrill cries of
night hawkers. the high faisetto voices OF
quarrelsome women in Nameless street en-
gagged in an interchange of exquisite bill
ingsgate. the rumble and rattle of wheels
the nefghing of horses. the thin song Of a
crowd Of Cantonese singing girls adorned
with wreaths OF asrrine. the crying of chill
dren. the chattering of DURHAM and ram
DooSteen vendors by their candle-lit stalls
In the open space fronting the markets the
nohotonous informing of some pious reader
OF the Koran and the yelping and bowling
OF lnnumerabie ours making night hideous
with their CRIES.
Penang Is one of the main staports for
the hourishing federated Malay states and
Is at present profiting largely by the tin
boom 1t is connected with Praf railway
station, Province Wellesley. by a steam
boat ferry service, and is port of cali for
the various mail steamers executing those
of the Mesa geries Maritimes, bound from
Colombo to the farthest east. The popuia-
ton, mostly consisting of Chinese who own
the best of almost everything worth having,
In round figures Is 10000.