The Birmingham age-herald., 1903-03-01
MID-WINTER IMPRESSIONS
 OF THE MORMON CAPITAL
BY PAUL COOK.

When you pay a visit to Salt Lake City be sure to choose a bright, sunny day in spring for seeing the sights, because if you happen to arrive there during rainy pediod of winter you will get an impression of mud. mud, every where. that will finger in the memory even longer than the wonderful temple itself.
 To the stranger the Mormon city seems very much like a big overgrown village, Although the streets are laid off with mathematical exactness. they are sadly in need of paving, and the scene they present during a thaw is far from invit- ing. The town is scattered over wide area of territory, so that it appears more sparsely settled than it really Is. It's pop ulation of some fifty thousand appears insignificant when compared with the large cities of the east but Salt Lake City is quite metropolis in the great, but still thinly populated west. It's d long jump to another town of anything like the same size.
 Small Buildings.
 With the exception of the temple, the tabernacle, the University of Utah, and a few downtown buildings, Salt Lake City boasts of very few imposing structures. Most of the houses are small and great many are of only one story. Among the Mormon residences especially there are few homes that a eity-bred customer would dcign to occupy. Even the famous Bee Hive house, where Brigham Young basked in the smiles of his numerous wives, is nothing more than cumber- some looking cottage 10 which wings have been added until It Is all ont of shape.
 The business district shows up better and there are some very handsome blocks, among them being tine great store of the Mount Zion Cooperative Mercan- tile company. which is conducted by the Mormon church.
 Although the visitor is apt to be dis appointed at first sight, Salt Lake City is without doubt one of the most interesting cities in the United States.
 But One Mormon Capital.
 There is but one Mormon capital In the world and the places of interest in and about it are to be found nowhere else. The town is absolutely unique in this re- SpeCl ID SldHu ana gaze pNfI lit Hiilu- ing Jordan river in Utah gives one the impression that he is travelling in the far away Holy Land.
 Notwithstanding the fact that Salt Lake City Is famous as. the seat of the Mormon religion, those persons who go there expecting to see reverend elders standing on every street corner, sur rounded by a flock of wives, will find themselves badly mistaken. There are far more gentiles than Mormons. and if the great temple square were removed from the landscape the town would look very much like any other large western city.
 All the Scots.
 Every religious sect is represented In Salt Lake City that Is found in other cities of the country. and the Mormons take great pride in pointing out the nu- merous churches raising their spires in all directions as evidence of their earl, toloration However, it Is hardly neces- sary to say that the services in the Nor mon tabernacle are more largely attended by all sects than any other The magnifi- cent music furnished by a choir of sev- eral hundred voices and the second larg- est organ in the United States, probably accounts for the attendance. All visitors to Salt Lake City hasten to hear the music in the tabernacle at the first oppor- tunity.
 Salt Lake City in Summer.
 Salt Lake City is said to be d very pretty and attractive place during the summer, but 1t is far from that in the winter In the first place winter in Utah is winter sure enough, and then the streets, being unpaved in many places, get into a wretched condition during in- element weather Saltair Beach. down on the lake shore, Is quite q summer resort.
 The best way to see the sights of Salt Lake City Is to take the observation car, which makes the rounds once day dur ing winter and twice a day morning and afternoon, during the summer months. This car will take you to all the principal places of interest and is in charge of q voluble guide, who keeps up running fire of information through n megaphone Sightseeing in an electric car has some drawbacks however, and it is best to supplement the first trip with tour on foot
 Of course the temple with it's adjoining buldlngs-the tabernacle and the church offices-is the greatest attraction for the tourist. So much has been written about this famous edifice that it Is more or less familiar to all reading people The long years of weary toll spent in construction the huge blocks of stone hauled singly on OK carts from a quarry many miles away in the Wasacth countains. the vast sum expended. the insuperable difficulties overcome, and the inviolate secrecy of it's portals through which none but members of the true faith have ever passed. are known to all
 Imposing Pile.
 The temple Is not as resplendent on the exterior as one would imagine, but 1t Is an imposing pile and the perfection of it's construction is marvellous. The huge gray structure looms up over the city and seems to keep an eternal vigil over the land of the faithful. High up on a pin nace the golden sheathed angel with trumpet to mouth, keeps guard also This
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