Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-11-26
STYLES IN MEMS WEAR
DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A GEN
TLEMAN AND A TAILoR'SsDUMMY
How a Mode is Born, Grows, Dies and
Comes Back to Life-Types
of Overgarments.


exclusive stage, when a mode is confined to
the picked few. then the second stage, when
| 1t is taken up by the favored few, and last,
the final stage when it becomes the toy OF
the great untubbed. So fashion Is born,
grows and dies. Quite few fashions, how
ever pass through this cradle-to-grave
process and are reborn The student or
| dress can trace a strong likeness between
| the modes of today and those of decades
ago. Many fashions which we acclaim as
new are merely copies or notifications of
| fashions gone before. And thus the pot is
kept ceaselessly boiling Things are evolved
and discarded, back they go into fashion
pot only to emerge again in fresh guise.
| Correct dress means something more than
SlayiSh obedience to certain 1nfteX.ole
| rules. 1t means intelligence and taste and
| thought, an intuitive perception of what is
| fitting and an Unborn love of dress ITSELF
If l have adopted the tone of the pedi-
! gogue, it was only to emphasize the fact
| that no man can dress intelligently by fol-
| lowing a gwen set of rules. The person
| atty of him who wears the clothes. his
| notions and judgments and conclusions
| form part of the scheme of dress. Per
| sonality in dress is the line of demarca-
| ton between the gentleman and the tailor
dummy. Unless a man has ideas OF his
| own, he will not rise above the level of an
| animated fashion plate. Ones tailor stands
! only in the relation of a builder who exc
cutes what the architect plans.
| Truth to tell, the mode has been slow In
J developing this season. The new things
| have been shown, but they have not been
| taken up with degree of zeal that would
| indicate that any special form, more than
! Others has the cachet of correctness. The
| loose Chesterfields and the snug-fitting
! frock overcoats. of course, come later,
| when clustering winds are asweep. The
| boxy covert coat in the various shades OF
| tan and in one-tone effects Is much APP
proved for day wear. Tourist coats with
La1to honI IN, ,lofd nnt onn
form save for travelling and the country.
| They are emphatically not town coats, and
| those who wear them in the city merely
proclaim their ignorance of what is proper.
| I hear more of Inverness coats this au-
tumn; and l would like very much to see
I these graceful overgarments back IN
| favor. The Inverness has a patrican air
| that accordS we'll with the distinction
| which evening clothes impart to most men,
| Waistcoats.
| Fancy waistcoats deserve a bit of con-
sideration They were so overdone last
| year that many predicted their wane.
| Some new and comely models have been
| introduced this season, however, which has
| served to give a flip to the fad. The col
! lar is wide and sharply pointed, and the
| Iapels are peaked and very broad and low
| lying, coming down with a graceful out
| swinging curve which Is slightly detected
| where the lapels overlap. The garment
| closes with three buttons and has pocket
| flaps, on the left of which the wearer's
monogram is embroidered in black silk.
With a wing collar of the prevailing smart
| type and large four-in-hand pear
shape, this waistcoat is undeniably effective.
| Winter boots deviate but slightly from
last years model. The toe cap Is still in
| vogue, and what is known in the parlance
| of the craft the punching" that is,
| the indentations in the leather on the cap
and on the upper part of the boot, is still
used. The extension sole, however, instead
of being sharply peaked. is gracefully
! rounded oval shape, and the sole has the
heavy ridges, and the upper part of the
| boot the heavy stitching, which give 1t
| that sturdy aspect characteristic of the
modish walking boot. Buttoned boots are
I yet the favorites for walking and for for
NAL evening wear. Laced boots are not
used at all Calfskin boots only are cor
rect for business and lounging. Patent
leather is restricted to wear with the cut
away, the frock coat, the swallowtail or
the evening jacket For golfng and the
| sports the laced russell is proper.
- Evening Dress.
With evening clothes double ted
white waistcoats are quite generally worn
this season. Evening trousers are braided
Gray evening jackets, with which go gray
batswing ties, are fad that 1 cannot rec
ommend Nor do L fancy the pearl waist
coats to accompany the evening jacket.
Plain white suits me better. Haskell shows
a white evening shirt with wide-stitched
The proper material for the evening tie is
white dimity lawn, and for the evening
Jacket tie black barathea, unlined and with
stitched ends. 1t is graduated, measuring
one and one-quarter inches in the center
and one and three-quarters at the ends.
White evening ties are bought by the half
dozen and are discarded after one wearing
The smartly dressed man doesn't use
white evening tie the second time. very
large handkerchiefs are now approved for
formal evening These may be of
plain linen or of fine japanese pongee with
cords inside the hens. The pongees are
favored by some men because they can be
crushed into the smallest space in the
pocket.
In collars cravats, shirts and gloves there
is little that Is new. Shirts with bosonls
different from the bodies are being made
quite extensively by the custom shops this
season The stripes are all up and down,
not across. Gauntlet gloves are once more
in vogue and chamois gloves have been
| taken up by all crack retailers. The
best glove for walking is the harness.
stitched, out-seam glove in the various tan
shades. These have plain spear backs or
spear backs surrounded with stitching OF
| the same shade as the glove. All smart