The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1903-08-02
Two American Girls Tell
of Side Lights on kashmir

+ ed until you are nearly mad with vexa-
tion.~
Our experience of Kashnlir has been
taste of both sides, we have had the
rain. having had only two fair days in
hve weeks, all the noises, with the ex-
ception of the babies. but, many OF
which we have succeeded in Queillng,
by force of repeated beratingS and
have not suffered from cold, and We
have had the delight of the flowers,
which is great, for the whole valley has
been a haze of pink and white bloom
from the pears, plums and apple tree
and a sheet of purple and white from
the great beds Of iris which literally
cover the grounds for miles, tint the
mountain sides and make one feel that
there is much in the life here in spite
of its many drawbacks.
Fortunately for us, our boatmen have
not quite the strident tone in their
voices that the generality of them pos
sess, and when we hear one of the
four brothers calling "Ahhadui All
hadii Ahhadil Ahhada!" in a minor
tone, we rather like it than otherwise.
We cannot discover Why they change
the last syllable of the name in call
ing, but we have noticed that it is new
er twice the same. Sidilxa, when at
distance becomes 'Sidai Sadi! Sideei"
ly seems to realize that he is being
called, and slowly and with many halts
approaches. In spite Of their many an
noying qualities, they are most at
tractiye set, our boatnen, and have
their jokes, which they enjoy with
merry eyes and solemn lips.
For example, the Rheesteenor water
carrier, who is one of the lowest
castles of all, they call with great seri-
BUSINESS, "Calipha." The sweeper, low
er still in caste, is addressed as MA
haraj," and so on. They are immensely
clever in gaining point and the very
best statesmen in the world.
We went with Col. b. to one Of the
fascinating shops just before leaving
Srinuggur, and, among other things
found a most beautiful carpet, for
which we longed, but saw no reason
for buying. The merchant in white
draperies and turban, smiled serenely
and said it was worth three times the
price asked and would fit into any
room, whereupon Col B. said that he
had no house to put it in, only boat.
The merchant suggested using 1t in the
boat until he got a house, but Col. B.
thought it far too good for that, at
which the merchant, after thinking a
moment, said with great gravity: eff
the Sahib has found so beautiful OBJ
ject at price far beneath it, and has
not house. if the Sahib takes 1t, God
will surely provide q house. The 'Sa-
hib" was much pleased with that ar
gument, but said that if God was to
provide the house he thought he would
leave it to him to provide the carpet,
Also" whereupon silence and, l fear.
disappointment on the part of the willy
merchant.
Islamabad is the dirtieSt and smell
lest" little town that it has ever been
our fortune to come across but at the
same time one of the most picturesque.
1t is about mile and half from the
river, a lovely walk through a long
avenue of very tall poplars back Of
which are apple. orchards in full
bloom; the streets are narrow and the
cobblestones, covered with mud several
inches Deep but. the houses have beau
tifully carved windows and doors, and
all the mud roofs are brilliant with
scarlet peoples, mustard flowers, or
purple and white iris. The fiat coun-
try about Islamabad is simply car
peted with iris, either a dwarf variety,
pale lavender OF a huge deep purple
flower, as we'll as the smaller and very
fragrant white kind. AT one end of the
dirty old town is a lovely common
with perfectly enormous chinar trees
here and there. a Hindoo temple at one
side in which is huge figure of Gan
esh. the elephant headed god, painted
a bright scarlet, and in front Of the
temple is a tank full of sacred fish
which relished very much the chupet-
tie, or -four cake, we threw to them.
They are a small fish, rather like a
trout, and are regarded with great in
terest and pride by the natives.
Abdul" ''Tuzoor!" ''Chota HaZri
instantly, it is late.' Eyes, Huzoor,
but baby on the cookboat has fallen
upon the river and no hot water is
forthcoming" Get hot water at once,
as it is 8 o'clock, and do not let this
happen again!" all this with great
ferocity. Yes, Huzoor," with equal
meekness, and in ten minutes the tea
appears. That is the character of the
native.
The small boy of the crew Sidika is
usually given the care of our tiny mon
goose when he is allowed ashore with
out his harness to explore the count
less holes in the river banks, and one
day he (the boy) was seen flying wildly
and silently along the crest of the bank,
evidently pursuing his small charge.
Of course we were all after him In a
moment, with visions of. blood-thirsty
dogs in our minds; the stout colonel
called from his boat to know the
trouble. and we all stood upon the bank
and watched our wicked mongoose rout
a whole flock of sheep 1t seems that