Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-05-30

the rajah against her. Nothing could be
done hurriedly. and in the course OF few
months the poor ambitious young woman
was reported dead. having died Of cholera,
SO 1t was said. though no one believed II.
If 1t is true some Of the most superior
of the Eurasians find it impossible to speak
the truth or feel the sacredness of the prop
erty of their neighbors. there is great rea-
son for prejudice, of course, and for that
we can only take the word of the mass or
the English inhabitants in India.
Sitting where am, as I write. on sort
OF promontory in the mountain side, look
ing down the slopes, thousands of feet.
and across to higher mountains, and across
these to still higher and snow-covered
peaks, the slope beneath me covered with
bamboo and here and there a tree fern;
brilliantly blue tiny birds fitting about the
top of the wild magnolia tree loaded with
the fragrant white flowers; trees covered
with orchids, yellow, mauve and white
blossoms; it seems like paradise on earth.
and then when one tastes and breatheS the
deliciously crisp, cool air, cold enough 10
allow of furs, one feels that there is moth
ing more to be desired.
One Rupee Purchase.
Just now a cheerful-looking native came
up, wearing on his neck charm against
demons made of small rough nut set IN
pretttly carved silver, with tiny strip OF
prayer tucked into one end, the quaintest
possible charm. and strung on priilant
crimson silk thread Immediately de-
manded the price. and was told rupees,
which. however. after much gesturing ana
many refusals en- my part. dwlndleo lnto l
rupee and I am now the happy pOSSesSor
of a sure protection against demons. one
picks up the prettiest things in the pazaar
for very little: for instance. three perIeCt
turauoises the size Of large beans Tor 10
rupees, or s.. set in commonest praSs SCI
tings as rings. but perfect in color ana
f1awless All the natives wear tnrquoises
as earrings. rings or set In prayer boxes,
and If one is careful and fortunate one Can
always get good bargains. Two OF the most
attractive and amusing things IN Dar1eel-
ing are, first, the little native shops by the
roadside, either a small platform ouie OUT
lightly over the precipice ana a very siop
ing roof for protection, or in few other
cases laid In hollow scooped in the rock
of the cliff with no roof save In very PAD
weather, when wooden beam or piece OIL
bamboo is fastened into the rock ana heaty
cotton cloth woven on It, and, secondly, the
hill ponies. These last are simply the most
fascinating little beasts In the world. even
rivaling the ponies of Burma. They are
small thick-set and round as barrels. with
the thickest names and tails ina ginable.
and the most demOnish expressions In their
big long-lashed eyes. They are as strong
as possible, and can trot up hill with
heavy man without the slightest effort.
The Shopkeepers.
In the little native shops the shopman
sits cross legged. of course. and looks like
large bundle Of dirty white cotton CLOTH.
for he is invariably wrapped completely IN
his chudda. His wares, consisting of bread.
cakes and seeds of many kinds and native
sweets, are spread out on a dirty cloth be-
fore him, and little cornucopias of fresh
green leaves used as wrapping paper. He
himself wears earrings, rings, necklaces
and invariably several charms for the many
demons which are apparently continually
on the wait. The fascination of little Oar.
feeling binds one and keeps one from leav-
ing, even though the mists prove treacher-
Gus and claim the glorious old mountains
for their own and do not even allow us one
glimpse of them in three or four days. But
one must in time say goodbye to the two
little mongeese and their master, to the
smiling Bhutia and Thibetan natives, to the
enchanting small ponies, the bazaar and
all the other charms which we are now
quite sure are unequaled in India, and be-
take ourselves to our houseboat in the
yale of Kashmir' before the heat of the
plains makes the journey impossible.
MARGARET STIRLING.