Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-08-08
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.

Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
PARIS July 25, 1903.
The long tulle wells which have hereto
fore covered the face of the sentimental
bride are surely going out. and the we'd
ding gown of white satin, which so long
has dazzled eyes with Its simmer, is
going, too. 1 do not mean that wells have
been totally discarded, but they are draped
over the hair. falling behind upon the train
and leaving the face uncovered. while the
wedding dress itself is of some material
suitable for future use at garden parties
and 'at homes,'' such as embroidered
lawns and muslins.
At a recent wedding at st. Philippe du
Roule the brides dress an exquisitely
worked robe of white Indian muslin, made
with great simplicity, an empire or Greek
gown falling from a square of embroidered
muslin upon the neck. The veil was of
the finest mousseline de sole, draped eff
fectively over the hair 1t left an impress
sion of grace and repose that stiff satin and
founced chiffon could not give. To me 1t
seemed an Ideal wedding gown, dainty and
dgnified.
NJ. Marcel Provost the well-known nov
elist. has written long article on the SUBJ
ject of dress reform in one of our daily
papers, and the question which the leading
dressmakers have so long scoffed at is now
per force being seriously discussed by
them. The things argued for are, first a
dress that does not sweep the streets, sec
ond, corset which does not interfere with
the natural functions of the lungs and d.
gesttve organs. The corset has been at
tackled many. many times before and not
without good reason: but until We find
q satisfactory substitute what can we do?
If the dreSSmakers interest themselves In
the movement there is some hope Of a solu-
ton to the vexing problem. But a handful
or reformers no matter how well inten-
toned, cannot revolutlonize in a day such
a long established custom without the as
sistance of the technical workers. The
latest discussion has brought to light two
methods of reform dress. One causes the
weight of the clothing to be borne upon the
shoulders; the other is a system of braces
The brace system seems likely to be the
more popular of the two here although
II the question of elegance is studied eithar
may become popular. Let the dressmak-
ers show US costume of thin material
such as lace-fnserted lawn, which can be
attached TO brassiere or soutien gorge-a
form of corset that becomes kind of short
petticoat bodice-and we Will be ready tn
try 1t; or a tailor suit with well-cut skirt
In smart material, with dainty silk braces
ana coat that will fit. and. if only for
the sake of novelty, we will adopt II Hero
in Paris there will be an attemnt msda To
place the reform costume before the nuh
lie; but 1T will be with rich stuffs and EN-
prolderies and f1attering colors SOFTLY
AlAStcau VI the ugly materials and
colorings that are worn in the nortbern
cities and with more beauty than seems to
nave entered into the reform movement in
Berlin and The Hague.
Are Hoops Comingp
Some people say that the beautiful and
intricate new gored skirt which reminds
one so much of the umbrella skirt worn
elght or ten years ago, is the forerunner
or an attempt to revive the crinoline, but
l feel quite certain that the powers which
preside over the world OF fashion are too
intelligent to try to revive such mon
strosity, especially as the last ATTEMPT was
such an utter failure. In this new gored
skirt the voluminous though graceful full
ness round the feet is, perhaps, a little ex-
aggerated. But 1t is nevertheless immense
~ effective, as 1t falls in charming folds
from the waist downward In a plain clas-
slcal drapery. which, together with a sue-
gesuon OF froufrouing silk beneath. is al
together delightful To augment the
breadth of the shoulders so as to offset this
ruIlness at the feet, pelerine effects, fuller