The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-10-04
MT. M'KINLEY UNCoNQUERED.
DIR. COOK TELLS OF HIS FAILURE
TO SCALE 1T.

Ascent On tho Southwestern Side Shut
or by an Impossible Granite Slope
Extending . 600 Feet Above the Party
-l,OOO.Nlile Journey by Horse and Boat
Word was received yesterday by the
friends Of DR.. Frederick A. Cook Of Brooklyn,
the explorer. that his expedition to Alaska
had met with disappointment in the effort
to reach the top Of Noun Mckinley. The
news came In the form Of a telegraphio
despatch and is the first word received
from the party since last May. The de-
spatch was as follows:
VALDEZ, Alaska, Oct. 2.-The assault
upon Mount Mckinley resulted in our max
ing an altitude of ii, 900 feet on the south
western side. At this point we were stopped
by an impossible granite slope, which ex-
tended 5000 feet above US. We searched
the entire western side Of the mountain for
route to the summit which might offer
a prospect Of success, but no opportunity
was found and the ascent from the western
slope seems practically impossible.
On Sept. 1 signs Of winter already were
far advanced, and although we should
have liked to search the northwestern
ridge as well as Muldrow glacier, the rapidly
advancing season forced US on TO a point
whore we could get out of the country
without our horses. Therefore, it was
decided to cross the Mckinley range at
the first northerly break In the mountain.
Our previous travels had been over the
trails made by the Geological Survey ex-
petition under Brooks last year, but now
we travelled over unknown territory, march,
ing about forty-five miles northward and
a n CT nd ~, t1iV u
every available OPT ortunity. We crossed
the divide Sept. over q new pass at an
elevation Of 5000 feet and oamped in the
Valley Of Chulitna. Our aim was to reach
the eastern slope OF Mount Mckinley and,
on our way out, II the season permitted,
10 make another attack from that side.
"A forced march was made down the
Chulitna, II being necessary to ford and
swim the river many times, but we were
compelled to abandon our horses and build
RATS twenty miles north OF a great glacier.
The latter afforded the first easterly route
to the great mountain peak. We explored
1t and made rapid examination Of the east
ern slope, but the rapidly approaching win
ter would not permit OF another attempt to
climb the mountain, and with much regret
we were forced to take to our RATS Sept.
81 and to seek the headwaters of Cook
Inlet, which lay $50 miles to the south.
Before us was journey of sixty miles down
the Chulitna River. OF which nothing was
known as to the possibility Of navigation n
a raft. Considerable apprehension was
felt on this score. but the river proved
nsvigable and the expedition reached
Tyonek in six days.
THE net result Of the expedition was
march of 600 miles with horses. nearly four
hundred miles voyage in boats and RATS
the exploration OF a good deal Of new terri
tory, the discovery Of several mountains.
glaciers and rivers. The summit Of Mount
Mckinley was not possible for US, but the
members Of the expedition feel that we did
all possible in the short working session OF
an Alaskan summer. Every member of
the party has enjoyed good health and will
return directly to the United States"
DR.. Cooks party were Ralph Schainwald,
Robert Dunn and two others. The object
OF the expedition was to explore and map
thoroughly Mount Mckinley and the coun-
try round about. 1t was the intention Of
DR.. Cook, when he left, to be back in Brook
lvn by the middle Of September. Mount
Mckinley is the highest summit on this
continent; its altitude is estimated at 20, 400
feet. 1t is dome-shaped with two SUBMITS
about, two miles apart. 1t has never been
scaled.