Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1903-12-12
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eoeeIll correspondence 49,,
SPa,t,co dc Chill, Nov 10, l@'-On n
.,5r,sselng expedition in chilis capital
o,rrot do better than begin with the
O", ,,i souare. named La Plaza de Ia In
Vs"o.,dorcIo. because from IT all things
. oven the tramway lines ana
sactnsy coaches, and in the streets I'M
'sadiotely surrounding II are found the
',a,,,,I Institutions. religious, social ana
P,,Ir,l IT is an imposing place, with a
iisoma marble fountain IN the middle,
'"S environed by beautiful garden con-
,,irire trees, flowers, statues, stone
ay.d walks aud marble benches Nearly
IN ,ho west side Of this great plaza is
y" .nnied by the cathedral, which is said
"a Ne the largest In South America as II
!. certainly one Of the Oldest Originally
e,ected by the conqueror. Pedro de val
s,,.,, a has been several times partially
S.s,royed by earthquakes and was recon-
s,ructed on It's present plan by Garcia de
N,ordoza. somewhere about the year l6)9,
=, rsther IL was carried az near to COM
nie,ion as seems 70 DC consistent WITH To-
ral principles az economy III mas never
ksen oule finished. ana probably never
h,l
~ these southern countries--its impertec-
Wons are fruitful source of revenue.
Tno,gn millions OF dollars nave been
'oilscted from pious Observation-Disclosures
snough 60 veneer the Nhol9 vast pie wlth
"A coating of gOd-there rs SUI s,anl-
ine Call for funds to finish the catne-
GtlH and year after year, az generations
oma and 20, a contribution box, posted
In a conspicuous position ana frequently
handed around, presents Its gaping mouth
ike perpetual mandieant crying give
sTbc cathedral is large enough TO shelter
iig0 people yet has no strlMnB feature
rxceut That Of size, 1t is built OF
coarse kind Of porphyry, with single
tower OF rough brick anu tall iron cross
over the main entrance. Though looking
Ike a monument OF sOlidity, us earth-
make cracked walls have long been con-
demned and the citizens repeatedly warhei
mat another slightest terrimote may tum-
bic II down about their ears,
RELIGIOUS sHRINEs.
No Chilian--high or low whether clad
IN scanty rags or, fguratiVely ROBBED In
royal purple--eYer passes the beloved
cathedral, (or any other church, Tor that
natter. without lifting the hat, making
the sign OF the cross or muttering an Ave
Marie This popular Difference to religious
snrnes is SHOWN an every occasion. In
the 'front.' wall Of one OF santiagOs hand
soonest residences near the main en-"
trance is a deep niche, In which stands
an image OF the Blessed Virgin clothed
in sky blue, with pink satln mantle
embroidered with gold and star bespan-
ged crowned with a halo OF gas Jets. An
iron grating protects the hgqte from the
street; but every day DoQuets and
wreaths OF flowers, rich gifts and Wild
owls mites and votye offerings of var
ious sorts are showered upon It by peo-
pie IN bodily or mental distress, VINO be-
lieye that trustful appeals 10 the holy
mother will bring speedy mitigation OF
their inhrmities. The story Is That some
years ago the sonora Of the casa, lady
Of wealth, being very Ill., made vow to
the virgin that If her health was restored
she would show her gratitude IN this man
ner. and there stands the more and moro
yenerated image, an effective illustration
" the power of prayer and the sonora 4
pIety II Is said tnat many miraculous
faith cures have resulted-and all good
SantIagoans lit their hats and cross
themselves In passing by.
A prettier custom among these exceed
ngly polite people Is thar Of dofing the
hat al sight of funeral procession. The
funeral pageant is not likely to be par
tculatly solemn, as there Is no black
about the hearse, nor weeping women
following it-only a few men, and the
horses being driven fun speed az II at a
race; but TO see everybody In the street,
In the horse cars, IN tne.r carriages on
the pavement or In their balconies, paying
last token of courtesy 10 the passing
stranger who Is on the way to has long
home robs grim death of some OF Its
gloom.
ARCHBIsHoP's SEE.
Bes los being the seat Of government
the legislature and the court OF law, SAN
tiag0 is an archbishop's see, and Is there
fore blessed with numerous churches ana
monastic institutions. Among the finest
are those OF san Augustln, erected IN the
year 1884, La MERGED, Santa Domingo
and San Franclsco-all built nearly three
centuries ago. the San Augustine Nun
merry, founded In 1875; the Carmen Alto. OF
church Of the Carmelite Nunnery, an ele
CANT little gothic structure where most oil
the fashionable weddings take place; IN,
stately church Of the Reformed Domini
cans, rich In marble mOnolithic columns
the church which was erected about iiftS
years ago to the memory OF Pedro Nal1l
VIC, the city's founder; next to the hous,
IN which he Is reputed to have lived am
last but long ways from least, the ele
giant RecOleta, now nearly completed a
enormous expense, and one of the mos
magnificent structures | have ever seen
II contains a vast amount OF importe,
marble, IN pillars walls and affairs, ricl
carvings, and costly, bIand new paintings
plt Is by far too new TO be impressive
and is entirely wanting In dim religious
lglt' and that smell of mold and mar
yFs bones and the ghosts Of ncens
burned years ago, not to mention IN
odor Of sanctlty' that peryades old sane
Warlts whore long dead generations hay
MuNNlpod
TO return to our starting point. tn
Iala de la lndependencia; the side oppo
aT me cathedral is occupied by
UNIQUE building faced toward the stree
Oy wide pavement under a series o
arches, known as the postales, which ha
snops inside and dwelling rooms above
un another slde'is big hotel and tw
HEm9us arches crossing each other a
,gat angles and extending from stree
street The arches are OF white stucc
resembling marble, with rounded roofs o
ba's and iron. One OF santago's mos
SlIar structures Is the adjacent POI
%.e de- Fernandez COnCha the name re
mInus lu It's builder. II is a spaciou
gallery Of Is arches, supporting a tive
"y building the whole being fou
NVHF VI height, an unusual altitude
,Es totlhquake-troubled country. With
we building, no great stretch of lmagina
wu required to fancy yourself In tn
Tur, OF some old-time marble palace
,ne Ahambra, perhaps with glas
cs5uhead, besides beautlfed by frescoe
nicsUsS' paintings, and innumerab
,,s,tn' yaen containing It's exquisite sta
,ueeW' Here Is a cave, apparently az nj
le lNalc H. beneath chaos Of boulder
pWuuhg with growing ferns and ~
a,eV&le me miniature caverh and 20
"t NIhl startled by "A remarkably liI'
Nt s'ohe serpent evil-looking head raise
10 sIrlke and then By the disco'
~ lnal You have inadvertently wande
Ulo "a private dwelling. whose own
g"a h1d the singular taste TO thus az
GD,c hs front door All these fancf
Fs,s along both sides of the Portalcs {
bSruaNuez Concha lead into bushes
ib'',, the fashionable shopping places
p", cue where iewelry, bric-a-hrac az
Ttaah millinery are chiefly sold.
s,,gs le a favorite resort for the IA
rga'y"Il"sVans, particularly after norni
eVs,9 "hrn you meet them by nj dred
d,sS one with a black manta, OF shav
sBd" llBhtly over her head. prayer LoC
bsoio rosary in hand, and "A small n
usn,Wn over one arm. The latter
un.y on embroidered felt but som
W14,{ i a square OF ylcuna or guiana,
dsraui u Is used TO spread upon the col
6Vrp STONES Of the church floor. when |
Ia kHeels TO say her prayers, II u.s.
cosNn we rule for n servant 10 folio
ard nvhnd my lady, bearing her n
ai5M9d!ef book. but now-day
ior.ss'o me example OF package carryir
gre,eltIs' though OF wealth and high d
gebl.N fashion has changed and q
d hoe. H. IA. AL.