New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1903-09-21
NODES IN TRIMMINGS.
Gdrn'tures More Important than
Materials.

Trimmings ere longer incdentaIs in the sayto-
rial world. Il is not unusual thing nowadays for
A woman to select the garniture OF her fancy and
nave her tailor build her gown around tor unGer
H. The trimming Of a garment Is it's ruling
motive and this holds good from the outermost
wrap 20 the inaermost bodice.
he fall and winter showing in laces and embroid-
cries II indeed noteworthy one. Emphasis Is
placed Oh pattern designs. background fabrics and
IRE machine reproduction OF motifs copying antique
handmade oanu!ngs and edges. Many Of the old
iavorites are still in evidence also Tenerife. for
instance. and Mexican lace and drawn work. all Of
which have been used with such good effect
throughout the last two seasons are still to the fore
In many chic costumes. The TeneriTe principle
especially is conspicuous In several Of the newest
nouncings OF batiste and cambria. combined with
designs in seni-rlind or allover embroidery. The
Mexican lace has distinctive style mat goes a
Ions way toward keeping up its popularity for
outer wear trimming Comparatively few Of the
really light mesh. finely outlined varieties Of laces
ana ebroifeTies in evidence. the heavier makes
being stin new enough to retain large measure OF
their charm tor the fastidious consumer and when
all is said and done IL il really she. after ALI who
sets the pace and controls tho market
NEW EMBRoIDERIEs.
In euabroideries the semi-blind has taken prece-
dence OF the blind. so called. and very beautiful
raised effects especially in the floral motif. where
The blossom IS delineated IN omen effect and the
foliage IN the closed blind fashion, shown this
most pleasing ensemble. A shaped circular
hounce arrangement has lately made its appear
ance in the embroidery world II is especially de-
signed TO do away with gathers, tucks. pleats and
other devices for securing the necessary fulness
about the bottoms Of skirts. II is made OF num-
Der Of gored pieces. Joined with narrow beading.
which forms part OF the decoration. For some
time 20 come the price Of this will probably pre-
vent its sudden popularity. and keep It within
the charmed limits Of the fashionably desirable.
The non-stretchable qualities Of this new founce.
however may seem something Of drawback to
its attractions 10 the economical purchaser 1T -
sold. Of course by the measurement of the lesser
edge
as to designs. the curved. irregular patterns IN
fabric trimmings have prospect OF greater vogue in
comparison with the up and down or crosswise de-
signs Such a pattern shows of 70 greater ac-
vantage when gathered or shirred.
Among waist materials. crepe de chine easily
holds first place for really dressy wear In the
hands Of artist waist Of this fabric becomes
a delight and thing Of loveness while even the
most ordinary and unimaginatve Of modistes can
quite rob a crepe creation Of its inherent love
Illness. An unusual amount Of tuckng. let in de-
signs. applique and lingerie effects now obtains with
the dressy blouse. Peau de sole. peau de cygne
some louisines and the very soft tafetas are also
used for waists this autumn. as are also chiffon
velvet. elk chiffon and the aIlover crush laces.
Occasionally all or several Of these fabrics will be
combined in q single waist and make most effec-
tive innovation Indeed. It IS the exceptional waist
that employs but kind Of material in its make
up now and must in this event be SO nearly per-
feet IN style and workmanship TO pass on its
own unadorned merits. In the blouse Of soft,
clnging material loose rein is given to sleeve
fancies and It is often this feature that par
ucularly gives distinction and individuality to the
whole garment