The Minneapolis journal., 1903-11-07

passing through the material is brought up
again. not quite close, but at distance to allow
laying the threads alternately first third, second
fourth. and go on; in this way you get better
hold at each end than If laid consecutively in
straight line. AS the leaf or form curves.
your lines of laid work gradually follow, open
ing little at one end and closing little at the
other When the layer is complete threads are
laid across at pleasant and fairly even intervals
following or suggesting the growth. These
threads are fixed down from the back
COUGHING or outlining for edging, etc: Usu-
ally thick strand of floselle, double crewel,
tapestry wool. cord or narrow ribbon laid down
and stretched at regular intervals by threads
crossing and holding down the couchine lire
at right angles. Gold carried over string with
colored silk.
Silk twist over string, couched: The twist
Is laid down two strands together and is
| stretched across each side of the string. This
makes pleasant border; one string, for variety
Is thicker than the other.
Diaper couching: Gold, silk cords. purse
silk or even untwisted silk may be used for
laying down. By varying the position Of the
| fastenings number of simple Stitches may be
produced.
BASKET sTITCH-Rows of padding in the
form OF macreme, cord or string are first laid
| across the surface of the material and securely
fixed down. Gold threads are then placed
across them, two at a time, which are stitched
down over the padding usually two rows of
these (making four gold threads tokether): then
the next two rows treated as brick stitch and
fastened exactly between the previous stitchings
nOrSeta1l
! beeswax. for stitching down the gold. Basket
stitch is one of the most ancient methods of
couching; 1t is very handsome and ornamental
Discs OF gold thread are couched with red silk
! In some of the old ernbroideries. The play OF
| light on the gold when wound round in this
! fashion gives jewel-like appearance
! In borders which are worked in gold passing.
| macreme string is sewn firmly along the lines
of the design: the string must never cross but
be cut off and begun again. The double pass
| Ing is laid backwards and forwards the Whole
| a-i nf hn hnrfa
waxed horsetail each side of the strings The
centers are padded with soft padding called
stuffng cotton: the design is cut out in card
board. tackled down in It's place and the gold
| laid across and stitched down on each side as
over string in other figures
| TAMBOUR GOLD--It is used over the card
| board The design should be drawn on the ma
| terial and on cardboard and cnt ont in the
| cardboard rather smaller to allow for the gold
| over the design without enlarging it. Place
! tne the pieces OF cardboard within the lines of the
| design on the material and tack them firmly
down: lay the tambonr (nse double. like pass.
! ing) backwards and forwards and stitch firmly
down with waxed horsetal at each side of the
card the center of the figure is filed in with
| basket stitch. - " ~
.,d PufInls us the finest gold wire twisted t
carefully, as 1t is elastic and If once stretche,
is quite useless. First lay 1t on a niece a
cloth and cut the required lengths with short
sharp nal al, scissors which meet we'll at th
points The pieces are then threaded lite bead
ana rosettes and pnmegranate seeds etc. arr
made with this purl: IT is quite simple work
Brfng I the & SIX up at the base of the seed. threa
qulred. take the silk back close to where 1t cam
up and secure the loop with a stitch
Rough purl is used for the petals Of the flow
ers and straight stitch of nnrl fills the cente
OF each METAL Pnrl embroidery over mad
ding is more difficult The simplest way of pad
ding Is a single row OF macreme thread; but /
rnn be used only when the designs are narro,
and the same thickness all over. If your tesg
varies in width. yellow stuffng cotton must b
nscd: lay many thicknesses of the cotto
stufhng on as the design requires. and stitcl
over from side to side. letting the padding h
highest in the middle and rounding down ON tn
sides. As the DESIGN wdens add more cotton
one thickness at time fcut the ends slantinr)
and when the design hecemes narrower cut ava
the cotton s1antways thickness at a time
do not grndge the pains and time spent In pad
ding. for the whole success in nurl enbroider
depends uron the smoothness of the padding
Prinx the needle mp on one side of the design
thread piece of nurl and take the needle dow,
ut the opnosite edge. giving the silk a firm pul
SO that the nur1 lies smooth and firm dow
over the padding. At first 1t Is difficult to en-
1.-THE purl the exact length required, but tina