davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-05-16

| part of the body alternately upon each hip,
but without swaying it perceptibly
Don't take the impetus forward from the
| heel, but from the ball of the foot, with
| slight spring.
Don't hold the leg stiff, although it must
| be held straight. In this way one walks
with the least physical expense and with
| the greatest ease, comfort, healthfulness
and beauty.
Don't pitch the head forward. Excessive
| relaxation of the neck with undue strain
| of the body, is awkward, destroying har-
| mony. dignity and grace.
Don't fail to remember this rule. that IN
walking you should carry yourself so thac
a plumb line, dropped from your nose.
would fall just inch in front of your
great toe
Don't bend the knees in walking. No one
wants to appear weakened" - If you do,
you cannot be poem when you walk.
Don't wear shoes run down at the heels.
and don't wear high-heeled and narrow
toed shoes. They are the inveterate ene-
mics of grace
Don't acquire the athletic, swinging gait.
although 1t is the fad of the hour.
Don't drop forward from the waist, an
other fashionable style of walking, and an
exceedingly ugly one.
Don't walk too far at first, when taking
up outdoor exercise for the sake of your
complexion. Stop just short of being tired
Don't waddle from side to side when
mounting stairs.
Don't trudge as though trying to push
holes in the steps. Take each step with
springing motion
Don't run upstairs. Go slowly and de-
liberately. Remember that you are lift
ing the weight of the body many times
and 1t is no light exercise.
Don't tread on the ball of the foot only.
Put the whole foot, heel and all, lightly
but squarely the step.
Don't bend over double when ascending
a flight of stairs. Give the lungs full
play, for you need plenty of breath.
Don't think that time wasted which you
spend in acquiring a graceful gait, for it
exercises a subtle and mighty charm.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-05-16
Plenty Tucking Used.

One point is noticeable with all fine wash
materials, and that is that wherever it
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-05-16

shades of white, pearl, oyster, blue, gray
and cream are seen in the materials used
for these costumes, whose pipings are of
the black, blue, green or brown of the
mottlings.
White and black is considered the most
swagger combination, and the most popu-
lar coat which is very loose at the front,
belts into the figure at the back. Such
suits and others fitting more tightly, will
be worn all summer at resorts whose tenn
perature permits their weight The skirts
are unlined and. instead of the attached
drop. some of them are worn over the
regulation silk pettcoat, which is made
only little longer for this accommoda-
ton.
In Scotch Homespun.
a neat suit of black and white Scotch
homespun has the bodice portion of the
closely fitting jacket in wide side plaits
Fitted into a pointed yoke these end at
the waist. below which the plain tails
flare slightly. The trained skirt is finish
ed with founce put on in novel way
and bordered with plain white cloth
The embroidered linen frock which is
made up in shirt-waist style, is the last
thing in these rich materials, and many
are the stole effects achieved on the bodice
and skirt yokes of such gowns.
One blue linen frock. machine braided
and embroidered in white. showed stole
pieces extending from the bodice yoke down
the sleeves in highly ornamental way.
nc SNo4eS VI lilt ShlTL YOKE HullS SITdlSHI
In front, after the fashion of the Sandwich
Islanders apron, and all the tucks were
stitched at the edge. Remember this, If
you wish to reflect the novelties of fash
tOn-first run your inch-wide tucks by hand
then finish the edges with machine stitch
ing.
Still in Favor.
The long. loose coat has proven itself
Too indispensable a garment to be abol-
ished. and so, with details frivolous or Sc
we're. il is here for summer wear Made
of thin French cloth. linen canvas, brillian-
tine and satin-not silk. mark you-the uses
of these stylish and accommodating wraps
are too many to be numbered
Some dashing driving coats in mushroom
white cloth-the newest and most desired
nuance, If white can be called shade-are
provided with triple shoulder capes and
revers of silk in the same white Coats of
coarse white linen, brilliantine or lace will
have strappings of taffeta and perhaps or
naments of silk galloon, shaped in buttons
with bangles and looped in cords from
shoulder 10 shoulder.
The covert coat. considered a necessary
requirement for spring wear, is taking TO
It's old tishtness and a strap. whose over
doing, II may be safely predicted, will
hnally be its undoing. Some models are
pleasing on wearers whose figures show off
TO advantage with the almost tight fit
others give the body a wooden and patchy
look. and the many cheap cloths used rec
ommend them strongly to the kitchen belle.-
Indeed. II is everywhere observed that If
woman wishes plain ready-made garment
or distinctive style. she must pay for its
privilege. For. having decided upon orna-
mentation as the dominant note of the sea-
lson, Dame Fashion has no time to think of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-05-16

head back and the Chest well out. and
strike 1t a succession Of vigorous blows,
with right and left fists alternating, until
you have done hundred In all. If you
have hit hard and with spirit your lungs
are fully expanded. and the muscles Of
arms and legs have been BEAUTIFULLY ex-
ercised.
To practice deep breathing. hold your
head up; shoulders back and chest out.
Inhale slowly through the nose while
counting five. Hold the breath until you
have counted five. and then exhale quickly.
Repeat while counting ten, again while
counting fifteen. holding and exhaling In
the same way.
Other things being equal the person who
stands and sits erect. with head and chest
raised, inspires confidence. A fine bearing
has q moral significance which people in
stinctively recognize and respect.
The salient points which go to make up
the beauty of an American girl are deli
cacy of outline as well as of coloring. a
face nodded in delicate lines, and features
that are harmonious.
A good cosmetic vinegar is made Of:
eco .............-....-...l pint
Gum oenzoin .....-...;i o.
Balsam OF Peru. ................t2 o.
Altar of nerou. .....................R dr.
Altar Of nutmeg. ................1 10 drops
Touch moles with a brush dipped in a
lotion made of u ounce glycerine, " ounce
rose water and " dram each of sweet al
monds, Oil of lemon and citric acid.
To make altar OF roses. q large quantity
of rose water, twice distilled, Is run of
into an open vessel, placed over night In a
tank of cool running water. In the morn
ing the Oil is found floating on the surface
in minute particles These are taken of
very carefully. In the Vale of Cashmere,
where the best altar is made, these oily
particles are removed by means of blade
Of sword lily. This Oil, when cool. is dark
green in color and as hard as resin. Ii
does not become liquid except at tempera-
ture higher than that of boiling water. 1t
requires between 800 and 600 pounds OF
rose petals to produce one ounce of altar.
Fifty strokes day from brush in each
hand will soon give soft, glossy tresses,
provided you use clean brushes and give
your hair shampoo once a month.
A good tooth powder Is made OF one
ounce each of precipitated chalk and phos-
phate calcium and two drains of powdered
orris root Mix thoroughly.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-05-16
A Pleasing Variety.

plainness, and the demand for it is often
met at the shops a presumption.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-05-16
MORE BEAUTY DON'TS.
Rules to Observe if You Want Grace
full Gait
Written for The Evening Star.

Written for The Evening Star.
Don't tip the shoulders from side to side
when walking. 1t is an exceedingly I'M
graceful habit
Don't throw the shoulders far back of
the line of the hips. nor hold the arms
rigfdly at the sides.
Don't bend forward when walking, but
hold the body erect, with the chest well
arched and the hips thrown back
Don't take a heavy stride, but one that
is light, free and firm, balancing the upper
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-05-16

plainness, and the demand for it is often
met at the shops as presumption.
A Pleasing Variety.
On the other hand, If one wishes the or
namental and can afford it in its best form.
never did the market afford such opportu-
mites for perfect beauty. Only to study the
costumes worn by the wax women in some
of the shop windows is liberal education
in clothes and on reading their prices
woman is no longer inclined to regard the
private maker as the only pirate In the
world.
The combined cost of four gowns In a
glass cage at a leading shop was exactiy
81 800 Three frocks, priced at $4Oo each,
were miracles of handst1tchery, ana ol .s
charmer in shaded rose chiffon had its
fiounce edges ruched in a way TO exactly
Initiate crush roses. By such perfectlon OF
make the dearness OF these creations Is
accounted for. as chiffon is comparatively
inexpensive material, and another frock
was only of wool wolfe.
Speaking of wolfe, pinch tucking-the
narrowest variety made-is simple deco
ration used for it with subtly effective re-
suits. In skirt panels. over blouse bodices,
across sleeves, this delicate tuck1ng, which
takes up scarcely appreciable grasp OF
the stuff is Topped in garland borders,
shaped in vast pinwheels, or QUILT IN
squares and ovals framing lace medallions.
A new material which lends itself charm
ingly to this treatment is eolienne, species
of yelling which falls more softly than the
usual kinds.
Many gowns for garden party wear are
being made in colienne, in which the pink
ish amber of champagne is the preferred
tint.
gown destined for June function at
Lenox shows mad spider-web treatment
of pink tucks in combination with white
antique lace. The odd tucking forms the
hip yoke of the skirt and pointed band in
the bottom, which surmountS at both points
three wide tucks in the gown material. The
simple blouse waist fastens at the back
under a deep cape collar inset with the
antique lace and bocdered with silk fringe
second stunning dress for garden party
or other high dress use Is of white handker-
chief linen with insertions of Irish lace in
grape design.
Plenty Tucking Used.
One point is noticea BILE with all fine wa sh
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-05-16

can be employed tucking is used. Shaped
fiounces are tucked at the top, skirts fitted
at the hips with tucks, and sleeves radi-
antly manipulated with them.
AS to the form of the dressy sleeve. all
opinions agree that the arm covering which
is fiat at the top and pouching at the wrist
is the one for twentieth century beauty
Many devices. scarcely noticeable in them
selves, but adding subtlety to the whole, are
employed to bring about the perfect devel-
opment of the fashionable sleeve. Three
tiny tucks may shorten the wrist pouch at
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-05-16
High-Priced Parasols.

All accessories provided for garden par
ty wear express a superlative elegance
and some of the gauzy parasols seen are
mere excuses for the burdens Of flowers
that they carry.
A parasol as expensive as 1t is smart
s. Is its price-is of dead white silk, with
a green wooden handle. Others Of a sim
liar sort have bright red white handles,
the ribbon bow matching in all cases.
Many borders in graduating satin stripes
are seen on summer parasols of both satin
and gauze. and on all materials wide and
narrow tucking is used with happy effect
But the perfectly plain parasol of white
or green silk or scarlet or white gauZe is
considered exceptionally smart. and the
French woman has turned her fancy to
shaping this sunshade in peculiar way.
Called the "Crusoe, this novel paraSol
which. of course, borrows something from
our old friend Robinson, is in form a huge
mushroom with the bottom line tightening
in real Crusoe fashion. In one white gauze
case fringe Of small pink roses hung
around the ferrule over the top but the
other two Crusoes seen for, of course,
they are only novelties-were of plain white
and green silk with handles Of jointed bam-
boo.
The Parisenne is nothing If not indepen-
dent in idea, yet so gracefully are her fads
taken up and worn that the charge of &C.
centricity can never be brought against
her. Then in her own way she conforms
to public opinion, and, though she might
wear red shoes the whole day long in Nice
appear in Paris with a breast knot of real
flowers. The wearing Of the knots of vio-
let's and single roses our own women are
given to is considered bad taste in the
French capital and since the habit Is con-
fined to the declase world the American
or English woman so offending is fire.
quently the target of much coarse RI
baldry. MARY DEAN.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-05-16

the inside arm and one at the Joint OF the
arm give ease to the elbow. But whatever
the trick used they form part Of the trim
ming, as It were, and from the buttonhols
loops, which fasten transparent stocks and
cuffs to the tiny net-covered buttons them
selves, this is all in perfect Felatio1:
A sleeve Of unusual beauty Is shown IN
a garden party frock of saffron. Valenci-
ennes and white mousseline de sole. The
deep yellow and dead white of this gown is
a combination much admired by French
makers. one of whom has sent over the cos
tune for a. handsome young matron In the
smart set. In form the creation is OF ex-
ceptional grace, for, on both skirt and
bodice, the wide lace 1ounces are used in a
way to increase the elinging effect. The
upper fiounce of the skirt of which there
are three, borders a tucked tunic of the
mousseline Below this only the lace of
the other fiounces shows. Upon the bodice
the lace continues, the three-founce sugges-
ton, the two upper ones crossing the tops
of the dropping sleeves to form shoulder
caps. Singularly enough this fragile gown
is girdled with belt of turquoise velvet, a
bias of which appears above the edge of
the stock.
Warren sheaf., 1903-05-21
FEEDING DAIRY COWS.
Care Must BE Exercised If Perfectly
Satisfactory Results Are to
Be Obtained.

Farmers do not realize the heavy
losses they suffer from failure to
feed cows properly. It is estimated
that the average annual yield of but
ter per cow is 125 pounds. Every
cow must first be furnished with
enough food for body maintenance;
then whatever she gets over and
above that amount goes to make
milk or meat. If COW is bred
is a full-blooded dairy animal-she
will not have a strong tendency to
convert feet into meat and will there
fore convert it into milk. So if she
is well fed from the time she drops
her calf, is regularly milked and
made comfortable quiet and content
ed, the more feed she gets the more
milk she will give, says the. Michigan
Farmer.
Under careful feeding and good man
agement the yield of butter can easi-
" be raised to 300 pounds year. We
have about 100000 dairy cows in the
country, which are yielding about
l,375,00O,0o0 pounds of butter, which,
ut Is cents pound. amount to $780,
205,000. If the 11,O0O,OOO cows were
properly fed, they would produce
$500, 100000 pounds of butter, which,
at Is cents a pound, would amount to
s495,o00,Ooo. Allowing for the extra
cost that good feeding would necessi-
tate, there is an annual loss of over
S250,o00,00o because of poor feeding.
1t may be thought by some that's
an enormous yield of butter would
bring ruin to the dairy industry. 1t
would to certain countries and locali-
ties where feed is expensive, but the
farmers of the northwest need have
no fear on this score, for they could
and would in a short time be called
upon to furnish European countries
with their butter, as we could furnish
it and make more money than we do
at prices that other countries could
not possibly meet. In round numbers
it costs about twice as much to pro-
duce butter in Denmark as it does in
the northwest. 1t will take many
years to bring the average up to even
"oo Pot'l's per COW, anu InOse VINO De-
gin now to feed right will have the
benefit of the good prices. Present
prices will be found entirely satisfac-
tory if cows are literally and proper
ly fed. During the year 1895, under
good management, cows returned
net profit of $40 per head; during the
year 1896 they made net profit of
$50 per head after deducting the cost
of feed; during the year 1897 the net
profit per COW amounted to $3s per
head, making the average for the,
three years $36 per head, without Civ
ing any credit for skim milk and young
stock.
Warren sheaf., 1903-05-21
Farm for Sale.

My farm OF 24O acres, in town of
West Valley, 200 acres being under.
cultivation, and the balance seeded
to timothy or used for pasture "a
good log living house, big new
barn, and new granary, a soft
water flowing we'll, and three small
groves on farm. Soil is a rich
black loan, and land is gently slo-
ping and well drained. Only II
miles to cheese factory, 2 miles to a
store and post Office, one mile to
school house, and % miles to Nor
wegian Lutheran church. Farm will
be sold with the crop, which I will
put in, and sale should be made be-
fore the middle Of June. Terms:
part cash and balance on long time,
80 acres of the land being school
land on which 30 years time is
given. The farm is in good shape.
PETER P. VINJE,
West Valley, MINI.
Warren sheaf., 1903-05-21
TIMELY DAIRY NOTES.

. Cows need some succulent food in
winter to enable them to do their
best.
A dairy authority says: Butter
that has been properly made will not
stick to the knife blade when it is
cut.
A poor cow takes up as much room,
eats almsot as much feed and re-
quires almost as much care as good
one. Weed them out.
The man who furnishes unclean
milk for consumption or to the
creamery deserves no consideration.
sUnclean milk from one herd may
spoil the whole days receipts.
The Dairy and Creamery recently.
received letter from firm in Ger
many asking where skim milk can
be bought cheaply and in large guam
titles. The firm making the inquiry
proposes to start a factory to manu-
facture new by-product Of milk
after the butterfat is taken out Of it.
Warren sheaf., 1903-05-21
CONSIDER THE CALVES.
To Sell Them Now, at a Sacrifice Price.
Is shortsightedness Absolutely
1nexcusable.

From market reports one might
conclude that there has been an enor-
nous wave of calves. sweeping over
the country. The markets, especially
those of the west, have been over
stocked, so that even in the face Of
record-breaking beef prices the prices
OF calves are lower than a year ago.
It is difficult to believe that there is
an overproduction of calves, and the
rushing of them to market at what
appears to be sacrifice price cannot
be anything but business shortsight-
edness. The beef supply of the coun-
try must be short, else such high
prices would not rule. 1t is plain
proposition that the male calf is
father to the steer, and if the calves
are sacrificed there is no possibility
of cheaper beef for several years.
We farmers, breeders and feeders do
not want cheaper beef, for we see no
more profit in the making of the
beef than the maker of it deserves.
AS for the consumers in the cities
and towns, they will have to make
the, best of it, for the nation that
spends nearly $4oo,ooo,oo0 yearly for
beverage liquors can cut down the
drink bill to keep up with the butch
er. But it would appear to be good
business for the raisers of calves to
keep on the farms such calves as
have promise of growing into good
beef animals or good dairy animals.
The present scarcity Of feeds will not
always continue, and when the new
crops are available for feeding those
who are desirous of making home
consumption of home productions
are likely to find a shortage Of
mouths to do the eating F. Nc
Spartan, in National Stockman.
Warren sheaf., 1903-05-21
Dairy Hint from Germany.

The Germans find that with warm
water the daily quantity of milk is
increased one pound COW as COM
pared with cows drinking cold water.
While the cows drank an average Of
73 pounds of warm water day, they
drank but 63 pounds of cold. They
found also that cows drinking warm
water consumed three-fourths pound
of food more daily, though they con-
sumed a smaller quantity Of dry
food for each quart Of milk. The
increase in quantity Of water drank
was accompanied by an increase Of
water in milk, with no increase Of
the total solids, which means that
the milk from cows having warm
water had a greater per cent. of wa
ter in it than did the milk Of, COWS
4drinking cold water.
Warren sheaf., 1903-05-21

use it for butter making. Fresh milk
is heated in kettles to boiling point
and allowed to cool to so degrees,
after which a small quantity of OLD
"yaoort" is added. This fermenta-
tion is induced, and the result is a
junketlike stuff with a slight acid
taste.
"Yaoort' is very nutritious and
easily digested, and is used in the
preparation of various Turkish dish
es, both meats and vegetables.
When it is employed for butter MAX
ing it is put into a jar of earthen-
ware, or goatsl1in, suspended by
raise the temperature to so degrees,
and the primitive churn is kept agi-
tated for 40 minutes, until butter
forms. The residual buttermilk
fused in the kitchen where American
cooks would employ ordinary butter
milk or sour milk is called the swine
of the Turks" and is known in the
market as 'sairan.''
Most of the milk thus used for
making butter is that Of the sheep,
and the product is white and curdy
in appearance. The Turks seem will
ing to learn new. dairy methods, how
ever, and might do SO very proftably
to themselves, the pastoral wealth
of the country being great. Recent
ly at Harput, Turkey, Yankee churns
were exhibited in operation, and ma
tive visitors were much astonished
to see yellow butter turned out from
cows milk in seven or eight minutes.
IN. Y. Herald. -
Warren sheaf., 1903-05-21
value of the Farm st1o.

"A farmer who has made a yery
thorough trial Of the silo says he is
SO well satisfied with the economy
of the silo for the dairy that if he
had to build every year receptacle
to contain the silage and tear it down
to get at the contents, like opening
an oyster can, he would certainly
do SO. His silage this year is excel
lent, very rich mixture Of corn
and peas. His cows are doing well.
He says he does not need either bran
or oil meal, and il certainly makes
him feel independent.
Warren sheaf., 1903-05-21
TURKS MAKING BUTTER.
Nhe Way in Which They Operate
Their Creameries Is Amusing
and Very Primitive.

Efforts are to be made to introduce
American dairy machinery in Turkey,
where the creameries are managed
on a rather primitive plan. Constan-
tinople imports most of it's butter
from Siberia, instead of encouraging
the development of the industry at
home, and the fat of the tail of
the famous fat-tailed sheep is used
throughout the country as culinary
substitute.
Butter in Turkey is manufactured
exclusively from thickened milk,
known as "yaoort," no attempt be-
ing made to collect the cream and
Warren sheaf., 1903-05-21

and d is 1x6x6 inches. The strip is
placed as tightly and firm as possible.
The milk pail sits on board c, across
the end of which is cleat to prevent
the pail slipping off. Notches are
also sawed in pieces and d, so as
to form legs. The mixer sits on
board b.-Fred Taylor, in Farm and
Home
Warren sheaf., 1903-05-21
HANDY MILKING STOOL.
Illinois Dairyman Describes a Com
trivance Which Suits Him Very
.s-& Well Indeed.

My milking stool is made of inch
boards. Pieces are 1x6x12 inches;
b is 1x6x8 inches; c is 1x6x18 inches