The Savannah morning news., 1903-09-13
A MANNISH CUT
DOMINATES FALL
SHIRT WAISTS
BY HARRIET HAWLEY.

THAT simple little waist seven dol
lars!" the careful shopper exclaimed
incredulously why, it is made of
medium grade flannel and quite UNI
trimmed"
1T is all in the cut" the clerk ex-
planned patiently.
This is, indeed, the only virtue of
many of the fall shirt-waists, especial
ly as regards light weight fiannels.
It is on their cut that they must rely
for sntartness.
Yet, there is something irresistible
about their simplicity. Take a shirt
waist of blue and white striped with
flannel, the product of a noted shirt
maker, as example. The slight full
ness in the front is gathered smooth
ly into the neckband. The box pleat
down the front is as simple as a neat
ly stitched inch and half box pleat
can be. So are the pearl buttons with
which is Is garnished They are only
half inch in diameter, and are I'M
carved. The sleeves have little full
ness at the armhole, and the puff be-
low the elbows is gathered into a three
inch wide cuff fastened with two pearl
buttons.
The man shirt maker can rejoice in
! his creation. He can also rajoice in
| the trend of the fall fashions, for much
| of the shirtWaist trade will be divert
| ed into his hands. He alone seems to
be able to cope successfully with the
| English linen suitings, which promise
to be worn all winter.
AS a fashionable woman declared to
her modiste the other day, Il am so
glad that we can wear wash shirt
waists all winter, for these English
vestings are adorable. But then, you
know, l adore everything English"
The most loyal American cannot but
acknowledge that many good things
have come out of England, and the
heavy linen vestings now so popular
are no exception. They come in white
either basket weave or lined. and in
white lined with black or colors or
hecked with similar shades. The gen.
eral effect of most Of the patterns Is
white, thus following up the summer
penchant for that color
The summer girl who was sensible
enough to eschew filmy shirt-waists in
favor of these. their more durable sis
ters, will find that she can wear them
well through the winter. And the new
shirt-waist styles do not differ radical
ly enough from their summer proto-
types to make the former appear
hoplessly antiquated. Indeed, one
mother, who was searching through
the shops for early fall shirt-waists
to fit out her college girl, was sur
prised at the advice the clerk ten
dered.
Better take one or two of these
heavy linen waists instead of choosing
nothing but flannel" he said persuasive
~. They are going to be the correct
thing this winter, and ore quite as
a tho Tn1inad
some of my patrons are planning to
wear a warm slip under them when
necessary and thus make them service
able for all degrees of temperature
A smart shirt waist is of English
vesting in a tiny gun metal check
stripping a white background. The
front is laid in two-inch wide stitched
box pleats set at intervals Of an inch
or so apart. Clumsiness is prevented
and an irregular pointed yoke is simu-
lated by drawing the box pleats close
together over the chest and covering
the seams with narrow stitched bands
The bands are of uneven length, and
each pointed end is finished by a pearl
button.
The sleeves fit the arm comfortably
until they puff out just above the
wrist. They have plain three-inch
cuffs fastened by the same pearl but
tons. The stock is of the vesting ma-
terial and is made after a popular mod
Ell. The collar and the tabs which ex-
tend down the front are all in one
piece. IT takes careful cutting to make
this variety of stock conform readily
tn the curves of the throat.
Many Of the new shirt waists have
the cuff arranged so that links can be
used instead of buttons. If milady has
had several pairs of odd cuff links laid
away during their hour of unpopularity
she can now bring them out once more.
Most of the new cuff links take the
form of buttons of silver gold or gun
metal, set with some favorite stone.
Blue matrix is popular and looks well
with a white waist. One of the shops
which make a specially of shirt waigts
and their accessories. is showing shirt
waist sets of tinted bone. cut to Initiate
a chrysanthemum.
One of the shirt waists of heavy lin