Arizona republican., 1903-12-22
HATS AND GOWNS.
Notes on the Holiday and Winter
Styles.

Too much Importance cannot be paid
to the subject of millinery. for with a
becoming hat shabby gown often
goes unnoticed. while an unbecoming.
shabby hat will most effectually de-
stroy the appearance of the smartest
costume that was ever designed. Many
women are altogether careless about
the hats they wear. They choose some
shape or color simply because it is the
latest fashion, and then. utterly regard
less of the fact that the color and shape
are alike unbecoming, place upon their
heads some fearful monstrosity and.
| wonder why no one admiries their ex-
pensive costume.
In these days the hat is. however. a
carefully considered subject and this
season especially is the item of expense
as regards hats serious one. For the
moment it is considered essential 20
have the hat chosen with reference to
the gown with which it is worn. For
instance black hat with a red cos
tune is not nearly so smart as a red
hat. With a blue gown there must be
worn blue hat, with purple purpla
hat. and so on through the gamut oe
color Fashionable this winter.
Hats are decidedly smaller this WIN
ter. This is not saying that large hats
are entirely passe. for there are no end
of most attractive shapes and styles
of more than usual size. The majority
Of shapes are small and follow quite
closely the lines of the head. showing
to advantage the hair both at the sides
and the back.
Velvet toques and turbans and "a
variety of other small and medium siz-
ed shapes are made in black. dark col
ors. light colors and white and owe
the difference in appearance solely to
the colors used, for the trimming is
much the same on all. The velvet is
shirred, pulled or laid in soft pleats.
and consequently the effect is far bet
ter. much softer and more becoming.
One EXTREMITY odd and very popular
shape has the shirring started at the
| center of the crown and brim. This
| model has one ostrich tip, starting q
little to one side and then so placed
that it covers the brim. Another shape
has plain spot in the center of the
crown, and then the folds start from
the center and are draped diagonally
across, giving somewhat Tam o'Shan
ter appearance as regards the shape.
The trimmings consist of a spray If
pink roses. intertwined with green vel
vet placed at the left side.
Ostrich feathers. short and long. are
just as smart as ever. and trim small
and large hats. On the colored hats
the shading of some of the feather Is
most exquisite and ranges from the
palest to the darkest. This is espec-
tally noticeable on the new blue velvet
hats. for it seems that there were more
shades of blue than any other color
Short tips and long plumes are Otter
combined on the larger hats. and when
there is one long plume around the
crown there is often to be seen ten tips
inside the brim at the left side or just
at the back. falling over the hair.
There is one most hideous fashion
which for the moment is popular, the
bunch of tips inside the brim at thE
left side. the brim at that side being
exaggeratedly large. There would seem
to be no reason d'etre for this extra
ordinary style, yet it has been accepted
and must needs be chronicled. If not
recommended. .ra-%~a-
Velvet flowers are worn this winter
on the velvet and beaver hats. There
is something homogeneous about flow
ers with fur ard velvet and on hats
that are essentially wintry in appear
ance. and yet there is a certain fasci-
nation in the very incongruity. Pink
. While FUSES. DellON IOStS, all
in fashion. and a lot of other flowers.
especially those with long loose petals.
not perhaps TO be found in any floral
catalogue. but none the less effective.
On the purple and red velvet hats
these flowers are most effective of
all and with ne st exquisite shading
of colors.
Beaver hats. trimmed with cocks
feathers. are most charming and are
worn with rough clothes costumes.
| There are Il few exceedingly smart
shapes in rough beaver trimmed with
ostrich feathers that are considered
suitable to wear with the elaborate
cloth or velvet costumes. and the
| smartest are faced with white cloth.
One such hat has for its only trimming
instead of the white ostrich feather
around the crown. a wreath of white
roses.
No well balanced woman can keep
from being interested i'll the details OF
dress and this winter the subject is
more than usually interesting on &C
count of the very diverse fashions
that have received the sanction of fash
ions faithful followers. Never before
was there known such luxury. such
lavish display of such gorgeous mater
| Ids anu lilIiliililSS, anu at ZIG Nebii'
time never has there been so many
charming and simple dainty designs
to choose from. White chiffon and
mousseline de sole. white silk and satin
all sorts of white materials in truth
are made up in the daintiest and
simplest of evening frocks that, in spite
of their simplicity, bear the hallmarks
of elegance. Lace is just as fashion
able as ever. and the more expensive
the more fashionable it is considered
and yet there are gowns, and smart
ones. too. that are made UP without
particle of lace Or even embroidery.
and which are extremely effective. Ow-
ing to the quiet elegance of the design.
the perfect hit and finish of the gown
For young girls it is thought far bet
ter style to wear these simpler fash
ions. but there are some among the
older women who include the same