The Indianapolis journal., 1903-11-15

used now, and when employed figures only
As accessory TO more distinctive trimming.
an its place Is seen a more elaborate stitch
known as a crows-foot Its general uses
are much those Of fagotting. though there
Is a tendency to incorporate it in more intri-
rate schemes than the other entered into.
Ornamental mesh in the form of spiders
web, some OF 1t finely initiative, is used
good deal Sometimes the webs are framed
with bands that may be elaborately
stitched. and again the material Is cut from
beneath the web. An excellent transparent
EFFECT is created by the latter method,
though IL IL not one that is strikingly new
except the web be good counterfeit.
Like fagotting, the French knot has un-
sdergone a change 1t hardly could be other
wise, as the knots were used I'm such abun-
dance and were so easily made. The newer
knot is completed by a long, loose loop.
Such knots are much used in threes, and
shaded silks are chosen for them rule.
though 1t is permitted to have each of the
lthree of a different color. Brier and pearl
stitches are used much, and when more
complicated decoration is wanted, they are
employed in combination with other decora-
ton. Much of the pearl stitch is put on the
appears here, but not great deal. The
usual showing is a deal of the palmer
stitching rather than less Of the sorts that
stand out conspicuously. The new knots
and stitching are much combined in tailor
garments, but just now most Of the stitch
ing Is OF service. with the ornamental value
kept In the background. Thus the bands of
the tailor suit shown in to-days first illus
"a Lon hatH al
5 BY their stitching, and the same can be said
: OF a great many stylish gowns. This gown
; was gray cloth. with gray silk sleeve ruff
fes, and was severe in its finish. But little
less relaxed was the model at the right in
the next sketch. which was dark red cloth
self-strapped. the straps stitched incon-
spicuously. Its companion in the picture
showed a moderate quantity of the showier
stitching. Here the material was green
cloth. The black stitching was distinctive.
yet not nearly so assertive as were the
stitchings OF two seasons ago. Nor are the
latter often equaled now for shcwiness.
Makers OF counterfeit furs have been
very prompt in noting the changes of
fashion in peltry. Hardly had the shop
pers become aware that mole skin was to
be the one new thing. when the weavers of
psQSneS came lOIHd Will dn lIDlldtlOu
that, while anything but real, Is going to
have much service a substitute. Ermine,
too. Is being shown In many passable coun-
terfeits-passable. that is. for many uses.
Thus the hat that seems to be of ermine
may be OF the baldest imitation, yet may
pass muster If only the unreal fur is not
displayed too boldly. Masked with other
trimming the same general effect may be
secured, though all purchasers should know
that such tricks should be well concealed,
disclosure is disastrous. The imitation
mole is advanced chiefly as trimming,
though the venturesome may employ il as
lining for wraps and in facings. To the list
of new real furs only one addition has been
made, and that is monkey skin of new
sort. 1t Is offered chiefly as trimming, so is
of slight importance. Squirrel remains in
the field, though its purchasers are not very
numerous, and those who buy IL are careful
that the new Is differentiated from the
old One means of marking the new squir-