The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-10-18

the more novel of these weaves were not
suited to elaborate makeup. and tailor
mades that depended for dressiness on their
trimming began to come out in smooth
cloths. AT that stage tailors were inclined
10 sniff at these models and hint. while ad-
hitting their beauty, that the other grade
of goods was newer Now, that is a simple
statement of no especial significance as it
appears here In print, but spoken by tall
or it Is a most potent message. Yet 1t was
not enough to induce women TO surrender
altogether to the mixtures and novelty
weaves. undeniable as was their stylish
ness. So dressy tailor gowns in cloths Of
smooth surface and fine texture became in
demand. and now 1t seems as II they might
take almost as high rank as they did two
seasons ago. They are Of the fancy tailor
made order, OF course, with quite elabo-
rate trimming as they had when they last
were abundant. Some of the ornamentation
Is hardly of the character OF tailor finish.
That Is where the fancy comes In. But
IL this point brings some incongruity, 1T is
not to be detected except by close analysis,
and the latter is forestalled by the favorable
impression such tailoring creates.
According to early promise, this Is to be
velvet season. Such was the promise a year
ago. and a year before that, yet little came
of II beyond sprinkling of velvet dress
ups and not a great deal more of outdoor
gowns The velvet used for these gowns
was almost without exception plain of
weave and solid Of color. The shade usually
was moderately subdued, too, though now
and then a green a blue took assertive
hue. Practically all of velvet that was fan
ciful in weave was reserved for trimmings.
and as such was employed sparingly This
winter there is likely to be radical change.
Anyway. the means at hand for Ii, for
the stocks Of veIvets include the usual fine
array Of solid coiors, with the newly stylish
shades represented. and many fancy
weaves. The latter are noticeable for origi-
nality. goods of equal novelty being hard to
find elsewhere. Shaded effects, fecks of 9TH
er color, spots that contrast strongly in
color or texture with the background-these
are but moderate sorts. rich and striking as
many OF them prove. More advanced are
what may be styled perforated weaves, the
perforations filed with BACKGROUND mesh
through which Innings to show. Costly
velvet. for which fine lining must be pro-
vided il richness, indeed, yet Ii is quite
equaled by many of the brocaded fancies,
which are offered In all degrees of showi-
ness.
AS to the use of these, 1t would seem that
many Of them are too fanciful for employ
ment except trimmings. But stylish
dressmakers, when urged to indorse this i'm
preston, are inclined to become noncom-
initial and to hint that whole gowns are to
be made of such velvets Dressed up women
will be gay array II such Is to be the case.
but naturally no dressmaker can see any,
thing regrettable in that prospect. Then, as
10 trimming with such weaves. it will tend
TO Iberality of amount and rather 20 showi-
ness of treatment. Combinations In which
velvets are 20 be a factor are promised in
large numbers. Girdle belts of velvet will be
mark of stylishness. Velvet insertions will
be many. and the inset pieces may be num-
erous and Of fanciful shape If the wearer de-
eires them so. Velvet ribbon may be let in
through the mesh Of coarse laces. and sash
ends OF the same will terminate in hand
some fringe. Yokes Of this material will ap-
pear on both bodices and skirts, and the
more conventional landings, collar, cuff and
pocket finish Of 1t will reappear. In all OF
these the velvet may be plain or fancy, ac-
cording 30 the ideas Of the individual While
the novelty sorts are so snowy that 1t would
seem az II they would warn most women to
use them warily. IL at all, their numbers