Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-11-14

lingerie chemisette caught into a wide taft
feta band fastened with large gold buckle.
The sleeve on the strictly tailored coat IS
smaller than 1t has been for some time; In
deed, little fullness beneath the turned
back cuff is all there is to be seen. A
cachet is given the bolero by adding
double founce of plated lace under the
cuff. This adornment makes the hand look
very dainty and attractive.
Mouse gray velvet is finding favor Tor the
trottier gown, and this color. together with
wood tans is dominant note in the coior
scheme of the season. Preference VIII pe
given this year to stronger colors rather
than to the undecided pastel tints, royaI
blue and purple, a lovely shade OF cerIS Sc
and bottle green being to the fore. we Win
not perhaps give out heart-whole admiratioh
to these brighter tones at once. as the solt'
neutral tints were so alluringly becoming.
Back to the Sixties.
Fashions bark back to the sixties and the
days of the second empire, as well as to
the all-important 1880 period. The circular
bands. ruchings and tucks which are now
the chief form of skirt trimming belong to
the sixties. Illustrative of the happy effects
of circular trimming Is costume of soft,
heavy black taffeta which Is one OF the
leading fancies Of the autumn. The we'll
defined skirt at the hips flares out to meet
the bouffant lower half trimmed with grad
uated rows of velvet ribbon. The bodice
does not f1aunt the ubiquitous cape pelerine,
but the newer old-time "crossover, which
Is being revived. This bodice trimming
crosses at the waist line in front and is car
ried round to the back where 1t terminates
In basque or plated ends
Being and Doing Clothes.
Women nowadays must do" everything
and be seen everywhere, as not to be seen
means social extinction for the time being.
In societys motor car race to be left be-
hind is to be forgotten.
All this being and doing" necessitates
a lot of clothes for different functions. and
the blouse especially the elaborate at
fair the Parisienne adopts, worn with
dainty Grape or net skirt is costume
change which may be rung with less ex-
pense than the en- semble toilet.
The Place de Madeline is the environment
from which springs the dainty blouse, ana
the following are few of the creations
emanating from couturieres in this quarter:
A lovely separate blouse Of champagne
cloth has bolero edged with a soft colored
galloon on mousseline de sole. A tiny mill
tary vest Is formed of black braid and gold
buttons. Over Galloon-trimmed. round
cloth shoulder collar Is smaller collar of
white linon de sole outlined with a narrow
plating Cf the same. This linon also makes
the full underblouse and puffs which hang
from under the kimono sleeve, also wrist
bands and ruff1eS.
A Dinner Corsage.
A delightful dinner corsage Is Of grena-
dine de sole of the Bengal rose shade. This
bodice is plated from neck to waist line.
A piece of old Venice lace outlines the bust,
makes the epaulets on the long shoulders
and fashions the high standing collar, cuffs
and sleeve bands. A cocarde of black vel
vet with gold tasseled ends and gold belt
buckled give the Partisan touch of black.
Simple and chic is bodice of tan peau
de sole having a shawl-shaped drapery of
the silk edged with fringe and bands of
brown velvet. The neck empiecement and
cuffs are of guipure.
The American girl could not live without
her tub waist, but the Partisan mon
dame scorns the hygienic wash waist and
clings to the froufrou affairs just described.
Marcel-Prevost's sincere and earnest ap-
peal for return to the comfort and grace
of the Greek costume is, I fear, meeting
with scant courtesy here In Paris. There
are no signs that the great ateliers are
treating the matter seriously. Indeed, they
have threatened us with a revival of the
crinoline. The women of today have too
highly developed a sense Of the ridiculous
to accept semblance Of the hoopskirt
from even the highest sartorial oracle. The
creators Of modes are perhaps retaliating
by giving us the present exceptionally full
skirts. Let us be thankful for the compro-
mise. CATHERINE TALBOT.