The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-10-25

need be pointed out that that does not spell
simplicity. This is only one of many straws
that show the current stylish dressers have
set. 1t is no plainness for theirs this win
ter.
By the one item Of laces the composite
dress-up gown of the winter, if such COM
posite could be got at accurately. would be
kept out of the plain or even of the simple
classification. The lace medallion craze is
past, though even this establishment is not
altogether left behind. 1t may not with
entire safety constitute the dominating feat
ure of a gowns trimming, but in modest
way, as an accessory to other, perhaps,
more striking trimming, it still is seen in
good company. But in fiouncings, edgings,
bands and falls it is used very freely, and
with an ingenuity of treatment that pro-
duces many pleasing surprises. Passemen-
teries are used quite freely and with
equal degree of novelty in application. Being
in vast variety. many of the kinds exceed
ingly rich, they are productive of fine re-
suits by themselves. but when combined
with laces and Celebrations. as they so often
are the completed gowns are more than
likely to convey an impression in which
complexity and beauty join. In addition to
these two general forms of establishment,
and adding much both to the beauty and to
the cost OF the completed product, is hand
work. Verify. great is hand-worki Embroi-
derry is by no means the whole story, nor do
the erstwhile fagoting. COUGHING and kin
dred tricks tell half the rest The liking for
this general sort OF trimming is so pro-
nounced among stylish dressers that any
sort OF Ii is voted an addition, and conse-
quently dressmakers for fashionable women
are busy at 1t. 1t is expensive trifiing in any
form, and when it is remembered that it
usually is added to gowns OF costly material
otherwise richly trimmed, it will be UNDER
stood that the whole foots up an alarming
total
To do without all these extravagences, and
yet to rival the attire in which they figure
is a difficult problem. 1t calls for much
study OF what is available, and then for ex-
cellent judgment in selecting and in plan
ming. Some can, others must, do without
such fnery. Those who want to get in line
with it have ahead an amount of looking
about in the shops that is likely to become
tedious. but the case is not hopeless. To-
days pictures are from grades of gowns
that are not OF the wholly unattainable
class, and are but very few OF a great many.
simple way. simple being taken in its cur
rent sense for dressy attire. The first gown
was pale blue gauze over blue silk. its fancy
light blue passementerie finished with gold
beads. Next see blue soft silk depending
for novelty on its yoke OF criss-crossed blue
velvet ribbon. Beside this is a white mousse
line de sole trimmed with made-up ruffies
headed by white silk ribbon flowers, an en-
bellIshment that the artist has repeated in
the head dress. as is a fashionable trick.
Two lace-trimmed gowns appear in the re-
manning picture: white plain and fancy
figured tulle combined and trimmed with
white chantilly. and white mousseline de
sole trimmed with black chantily.
Substitution must be a resort OF the copi-
ers who would reproduce evening models
cheaply. Gowns prepared for display as ex-
pressions OF new fashions run to costly
stuffs and trimmings. much OF which is
wholly beyond the means of the average
shopper. but by accepting less expensive
goods or trimming, or both. there often-yes
usually-may be secured a gown that will
reflect strongly and faithfully the original
beauty at a small fraction OF its cost In
laces alone these show-window evening
gowns are enough To dishearten most women
who study them. But there are all sorts OF
laces. and while the very cheapest will not
serve. something far less costly than tn.
newest excruciation viii do nicely. The sam,
Is true Of passementeries. and here IN,
sksmper's course is easier, for many OF IN.
inexpensive passementeries are perfec
beauties. and what Is best in the passemen
tsrie-tsimmed gown often Is the manner II