The Washington times., 1903-11-08


summer or winter, must needs
include such a number of diff
ferent gowns that the ingenuity
of dressmakers and designers is Sc
verely taxed devising new styles. For
tunately. fashion now permits the wear
ing of all sorts Of fabrics at any time
of the year. For summer cloth gowns
and wraps were considered suitable II
the day was cold. Now materials once
only thought possible for midsummer
wear are made up for winter. not only
for evening but for afternoon and the
alter wear.
It takes al experienced eye. indeed. to
discover whether the gown is q summer
or a winter one. so closely do the two
styles resemble each other. and were it
not for the heavier Innings there would
really be no difference between them.
Taffeta. instead of India silk. and
light weight OF satin are used for lining
the thin winter gowns, thus giving &
heavier appearance and perhaps
shade more warmth to them. White
batiste would seem to be emphatically
a summer fabric, but II is used in tea
gowns and house gowns this winter.
White mofl sseline de sole. white chiffon,
and the thinnest qualities OF white veil
ing are all practical for any season
when made up in the graceful styles
that seem so especially adapted to
them
Lace and finest embroideries are the
favorite trim mings for such gowns, and
when bit G, color is desired it may be
introduced in the bands Of embroidery.
or. as is often seen. the design OF the
lace is worked over in corded silks.
Silver and Gold for Trimming.
Bands Of silver. gold. or steel pailettes
are extremely fashionable on the chif-
ION frocks, and one OF the smartest
gowns Of the season is made of white
chiffon, with accordion pieated skirt
and waist There is no trimming on
the skirt except a narrow pointed yoke
of silver pail sttes on white net. At the
top of the waist are crossed bands Of
the pailetted net, and there are more
bands intersecting the top of the sleeves,
while the same idea is copied in a mauve
chiffon. but instead Of the bands having
pailettes rows of mauve velvet are rib
bon run through beading.
As shown IN the Illustrations, stirring
and plating are both fashionable in thin
materials These make a change from
the panels IF lace entire deux or en-
b~oidery thai for so many seasons have
been popular. The nOunced skirts. hav-
ing the founces pleated or gathered.
are exceedingly smart. and there is a
dainty finish -of narrow lace or ruching
on eaca founce that gives the gown a
marked Individuality which the accor-
dion pleated skirts do not possess. In
putting on The nOunces care is neces-
sary that thes shall be so arranged as
10 give the effect OF a horizontal line
higher al the back than in front. but
not in the exaggerated straight front
line of last year. There are some wO-
men 10 whom founced skirts are so IN
becoming that the fashion is an impOs-
sible one unless these lines are carefully
studied Even then they sometimes look
so badly that 1t is better to take sim
pier design and fiOunce, shaped wider at
the back shan in front.
Difficult to Remodel Last Years Gowns.
only in the autumn it was said that
there would not be any marked change
from last years styles. but as time goes
on It is evident the assertion was
little premature. There are many
points Of difference, though last years
gowns can be renodeled, Not without
considerable trouble and expense. how
ever. for tbs newest designs show
most radical change as regards skirts
and sleeves. The general effect OF this
autumn's costumes is much the same as
last years. There are short jackets.
both loose and tight fitting. made with
attached skirts or cut in one line from
the shoulder. but the sleeves are de-
cidedly original They are large and
dropping in effect and finished below
the elbow mere often with ruffies than
with puffs. and with the trimmings
placed at the top OF the sleeve as well