The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-01-31
EARLY SPRING STYLES
IN RESPECT TO SKIRTS FASHION IS
NOT ENTIRELY SETTLED.
Silks and Observation-Disclosures
and Stocks.

Correspondence OF the Indianapolis Journal.
NEW YORK, Jan. 2S.-Late winter is not
apt to introduce any radical novelties, yet
there are hints of spring to be gathered
here and there, and those women who or
der new costumes feel that their style
should be assured. A few advance models
have been sent over and a few facts are
TO be ascertained, but the time is ca
PRECIOUS one and one need be surprised
to find what is stated to-day denied to-
morrow. All sorts of rumors are flying
about. On one side hear that tight skirts
have passed away, on another that they
are firmly established as ever. One
authority talks about short skirts, another
SCOTS at the idea. The truth, as l believe
it to be, is found midway between the ex-
tremes, and neither statement is entirely
correct 1t is quite true that plated and
shrred skirts to be freely worn, but,
far, they are confined to the thinner ma
terials; cloth models are made to fit snugly
about the hips and to flare freely at the
feet. let that result be obtained by what
means it may. Unless all signs fail more
skirts that clear the ground will be worn
\ than heretofore has been the case, but the
graceful train is dear to the feminine heart
! and will rot readily be given up. What it
4 is to be hoped will come about is the exer-
else OF good sense and judgment as to when
| they shall be worn. Indoors and for car
rage dress they are charming. The error
| that is made les in their misuse. Partisan
women, and indeed women of all European
/ countries, use carriages far more freely
than we do. If the private equipage is
not possibility the cheap cab system
| helps them out. As a result fine gowns
are not often worn upon the street. In
adopting the styles We, on this side of the
sea, are apt To overlook that fact and TO
wear the gowns when conditions are far
from helng reproduced. No French woman
would consent to soil her skirts by contact
tram length 1t is carefully lifted we'll above
the insteps and the petticoat beneath is
short, Her sense of fitness is far too great
to allow of trained foundation skirts that
slip away from the hand and that drag
or flap about the feet. When she wears
such she Is driven from place 10 place.
indeed be well If her example could be
followed and only short skirts or skirts
over short petticoats be worn, although
| personally / prefer the former Few WON
men raise a long skirt gracefully The lines
produced are ugly and distasteful. The
| SKIRT that just clears the ground allows
far. If the promised thrush of such does
| really come there will be cause to rejoice
| indeed.
VARIETY OF MATERIALS.
Materials for both spring and summer are
varied as never before and make fascinat-
ing studies of color. AS l stated last week,
plain cloths will be given the preference for
formal dress, but the fiecked and mixed
materials for unitarian wear are charm
ing nevertheless. Gray with white is al
ways lovely and is ideal for spring Some
CT the new cheviots show the gray in mar
velously soft and tender tones. with fecks
of white in varying sizes. Browns too, are
shown, and both green's and dull blues.
Whatever else may fail, these materials
Will be made up in plated skirts with blouse
coats, either plain or with basques that
vary from mere peplums TO genuine tunics.
Some admirable models include cuffs and
| nat collars that are of velvet or of the ma
terial velvet edged. Fancy braids. too. are
TO be much used. An exceedingly smart
coat is double breasted, slightly open at the
neck and is finished with fiat, round coll
lar that is completely covered with braid
The sleeves are in the new bishop STYLE
cut in two pieces, and form big, dropping
puffS above the Follower cuffs. Cheviots
canvas weaves, CLEANLINESS, all are so made
Buttons are exceedingly handsome. and
even on these simpler suits rich in eff
feet. Those designed for the handsomer
wraps are of carved gilt of gilt set with
stones, of carved oxydized metal so treated
and OF porcelain painted and set in carved
gilt. Some of the new CLEANLINESS are pc
culiariy charming and show mixtures of
white with color or blended shades of one
color in most effective manner. Nut
browns with tan and duh green with white
are noticeable and are eminently desirable.
They are light in weight, shed dust and
make altogether satisfactory useful gowns.
New foulardS and silks appear almost
every day. One of the very newest is ex-
quisitely soft and light. and is shown in
indescribable all-over, scroll-like patterns
that are temptingly restful and attractive
Pale green, pastel blue and gray with white
and scattered dots of black are smart and
suggest summer GOODNESS even now, when
furs are welcome. With the craze for names
that marks the season the silk is called
"drap de Mozart but foulard mousseline
Is what IL really is. and just wherein lies
the significance of the first mentioned name
i do not know. The touches of black are
most effective and are to be noted in many
of the best materials Whatever the color
and whatever the design, touch of
black appears and enhances the whole.
Not the silks and woods alone show the
feature; fine cottons also are woven with
threads or dots of black Tan colored
Swiss muslin embroidered with white and
black dots is much liked and threads of
black are found in the cotton grenadines.
batstes and the like. Mercerized fabrics
are simply exquisite. Many of the cheviots
have the luster and quality of silk. while
the vestings show a depth of color never
before found in cotton materials. For
immediate wear these last are shown with
fleece backs and held far more smart
for shirtwaists than flannel any wool.
The new shrtwaists, by the way, add to
their numbers every week. One marked
feature is the wide box plait, another the
big pearl buttons ~ most excellent de-
sign shows two central plaits and two rows
of buttons. This last is actually closed by
means of the buttons, the buttonholes be-
ing worked in the plait, but in many cases
the buttons are ornamental only and the
closing is made invisibly beneath the plait
WHITE MUCH FAVORED.
White, in all grades OF thickness and
weight is to be favorite. Its favor seems
to increase from season to season rather
than TO show any sign of falling off. 1t
is predicted that white linen suits, either
duck or butchers linen, will be the height
of smartness for summer wear and are
being made up in shirtwaist and blouse
styles. Hand embroidery makes the hand
soonest and most fashionable trimming and
is wrought into the material, not applied.
The heavy raised French work Is the sort
preferred, L think mentioned last week.
Numberless girls are having the waist
patterns stamped and will employ the leis-
ure of lent in doing the work themselves.
All sorts of fine needlework are in vogue.
Fancy stitches are seen upon many of
the best gowns and waists and faggoting
gains in favor it would seem. An exceed
ingly handsome waist of white crepe me-
teore is accordion plated below the yoke.
which is made entirely of narrow bands
held by faggoting in heavy silk. The plait-
ing also marks the season, for ii Is to be
in skirts ana waists. Pongee, which is
1 Ne 4.