Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-01-17
somer than a white frock, provided it Is
toned down with mink or sable.
A Crochet Dress.

I saw beautiful frock composed Of cream
colored crochet over finely plated crepe de
chine in a deep shade Of ivory. The bodice
seemed to be an inner blouse of accordion
plated crepe de chine, with a loose hanging
sack Of the coarse crochet lace and a wide
band Of cream panne. The only color intro
duced was In large cluster Of Parma vio-
let's and. dark red roses-real ones, by the
way-which never seem out Of place.
Two lovely wolfe toilets worn at Nice were
as follows: The first was Of biscuit colored
cloth The blouse corsage beneath the
double shoulder cape was strapped with
mordore ribbon velvet. The skirt, gathered
was caught together at intervals by appli-
que mordore chenille embroidery. A NOUS
seine plated boa frnged with a narrow
band OF mink fur. finished by long ribbon
ends. was a pretty complement to a stun
ming toilet.
The second model was in dove-colored
silk wolfe over a shot mauve taffeta. The
guipure collar. edged with a narrow band
of fur, opened in front over q white vel
vet plastron strapped by bands of black
velvet ribbon. A narrow plating of wolfe
fashioned in bolero effect displayed the
blouse of mauve taffeta beneath. The
plated skirt was broken on either side by
inlet incrustations of embroidery and gull
pure with meuve taffeta ruchings. A long,
loose wrap lined with ermine and mousse
line plisse completed becoming ensem-
BILE.
Eastern Influence.
John Chinaman Is exercising a powerful
influence on western peoples. We are bor-
rowing his coat for our cloaks and his
sleeve bands for the decoration Of our
boudoirs. and, to cap the climax, the man
DARN hat is one of the most fashionable
| forms. A mandarin plateau carried out in
black silk beaver, with black and white
ostrich feathers curling over the brim, is
| very chic.
The stylish dresses of the moment are
| characterized by motifs Of exquisite en-
| broidery, the designs being borrowed from
| all parts Of the world. The pretty, dainty
Louis XIV and XVII effects, the Russian
| cross-stitch, the Bulgarian. Persian and
| Japanese silk work-all are in vogue. 1t
| matters little whether the stitchery is
| coarse or fine, whether it recalls the
| Bayeux tapestry or the fine roses Of China
| which look as If they were painted. They
| copy natures work, but they do not fol-
| low nature faithfully in the east. Birds
and flowers alike are conventionalized and
| rules of drawing are ignored. Fashions
| come and go, but these embroideries are
always in vogue and have been for CEN
| turtles. They are SO thoroughly and well
wrought that they do not deteriorate. I'm
til the last few years Chinese embroidery
| had been employed as household furnish
ings rather than on dress but we are now
placing it on effective backgrounds and
using 1t for entire robes and for evening
cloaks
A Black Crepe.
For these effects 1 think there Is no
ground work like black crepe de chine. The
| long, loose stitched work in white now so
much in vogue is devoted principally to
cloth materials We are using medallions
of embroidery on many fabrics, and we are
Frightening up our dark winter gowns with
collars and vests worked In colored silk.
Marrying and giving in marriage are al
ways before US. An acceptable novelty is
| the picture wedding where the bride brides
maids and near relatives wear dresses IN
spired by old pictures. The lace trains are
| so arranged on the bodice as to form fichus
White satin empire gowns are In FAVOR 1or
attendants. and the guests are wearing
great deal of velvet covered with lace.
These gowns often have slashings Of satin
| about the sleeves and bodice after the Tu-
dor style.
| A fad for lace which matches the gown In
| color is one of the eccentricities Of the hour
| hardly think it pretty idea; still some
| OF the heavy yak laces take to the dye very
] successfully. Another "faddy' idea Is that
I the frock must match ones mood. Our no
| lions of moods are SO varied that black for
! the dumps and red when one Is feeling par
| ticularly gay are the only general rule for
guide.
! to play a very pretty part In blouses and
| frocks-for example, instead of lace yoke
| a crepe de chine blouse will have the OPEN
| work effect contrived by coarse silk yelling
] really herringbone stitch-with the rou-
| leaux twirled into all kinds Of decorative
| ideas.
| I was told the other day that a dainty,
fine wooden canvas is the coming material
| for shirt waists. The shops trust, will
be able to get skirt lengths as I can i'm
| agine very nice spring shirt waist dresses
| being made from this canvas. Sufficient,
| though, unto the day." for Dame Fashion
| will certainly look out for her own in the
| coming materials.
| CATHERINE TALBOT.