The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1903-05-01

sentative views of the Frenchman. 1t
is not French money that has built the
big hotels, nor is 1t according to French
taste that Paillards have redecorated
their room and dotted it with little ia
bles, or that the Cafe de Paris has
spent so much in gliding. The Partisan
/: still loves to sit on cushioned benches
along the wall, and as like as not en-
ter into talk with his neighbor.
Again, the Partisan Is a true demo-
crat. Whatever his rank, he is WILL
ing to join in the fun going forward.
remember, one night in the Cafe de
Pafls seeing Hungarian Prince with
rent roll of scores of thousands stalk
up to a band of his countrymen and
take the first violin from the hands
of the leader. The next moment a
score of well-known people were gath
cred becre him. A Count sang a love
song, a ballet dancer from the Opera
obliged us with a remarkable fandango,
a sugar refiner gave us a comic patter
Nobody cared who his neighbor CHANGED
to be. 1t was good fun-that was suffi-
cient.
Imagine Duke and an Earl and a
rich merchant amusing the supper
crowd at the Carlton or the Savoy
Decidedly, they do these things bet
ter in France.
The last year or two has seen
changes in the restaurants of Paris.
Joseph's famous little house behind the
Opera Comique is dead, as is it's mas
ter. Cubat has gone back to Russia;
the Maison Doree, where Kings and
Emperors have dined, has ended with
disaster. 1t had been in the same
family for a hundred years-this last
and the first sign of it's downfall was
when the headwaiter surreptitiously al
lowed franc lunch to be served.
Restaurants To-day.
Voisin still keeps it's reputation for
wine. You can taste no such delicate
Burgundy in this country, where our
imports are fortified with spirit to keep
them in good condition. There Is
Mares for the dinner-loving men of
business, and Durand's, though fallen
in fame since Boulanger made it his
headquarters, is still the restaurant of
the politician.
Marguery is situated too far to the
east, for the trend of Paris is to the
west, as in our London. But Mar
guery's cooking-who can forget his
filet de sole that has given a new dish
to the cooks of the world ?-still keeps
around him his patrons. A quaint old
man is Marguery. He is to be seen at
every funeral of note, conspicuous with
his long black hair and ostentatious
mourning.
II cannot forget to honor in their
death those l have helped to keep
alive" he tells you; but the cynics
whisper that only percentage of the
funerals he attends are those of his
patrons. ut is his method of adver-
tisement," they laugh. He would
have us think that all Paris are his
customers"
When spring passes into summer
charter your fiacre; and HE you to Ar
menonville or the Madrid in the Bois
There is music of the best, and the
clear evening sky of Paris above your
head. 1t is pleasant TO live that we
may eat-in the Bots.
The Cafe Anglais is scarcely what it
was ten years ago. Yet still it pros
pers. For supper, Julien's, Maxims,
and the Cafe de Paris stand alone. Ju-
liens has been hard hit by the other
pair, yet it has its devoted band of
young men who swear by it even as
their fathers swore. Maxim's is the
home of the racing man and the very
beautiful lady, about whose past or
present it is not well to inquire too
closely. The Cafe de Paris is another
favorite haunt of the lady of the COM
edy and the ballet. There also do rich
young Frenchmen foregather whose
fathers made what they now spend.
Let me whisper a word to you,
though in the doing of II I betray my
friend, the Baron, who curses both our
Anglo-Saxon houses. For dinner let
me recommend you to try Henri's, In
the Rue Gallon, or Boeut a la Mode,
close TO the Pdlais Royal. They are
restaurants OF the old type, and little
known TO tourists. They have small
pretense 10 ornamentation--bu the
cookinGl