Evening star., 1903-08-29
STYLES INffMEN'S WEAR
FLAMBoYANCY NEVER CoNDoNEu
By GOOD TASTE.
The Transitive Nature Of Fashions-A
Review Of Summer Dres@Pop-
ular House Garments.
From the Haberdasher.

| years ago that color reigned supreme, and
| when the tendency toward the famboyant
drove color out Of favor, enough remained
| in shirt and hose and cravat to relieve
what otherwise would have been an exceed
| ingly monotonous tone. The monotone Is
not attractive In dress. We must have
color. and we will have II despite overindul-
gence and abuse. Summer dress must be
light and airy and more or less brilliant
Color is but a natural accessory to sartorial
| excellence, and in one way 1t Is not an un-
| important factor tn conserving comfort.
With the abandonment OF the Wa1stcOat the
shirt and belt naturally came into promi-
nence and the cravat occupied a most con-
| spicuous place. With the light summer
suits Of homespun. tweed. serge or cheviot
but little color could be properly woven
| into the fabrics, and therefore it was the
shirt, the cravat and the hose that were
made doubly conspicuous. they being the
only articles in mans wardrobe that would
stand color treatment. 1t is not, therefore.
contrary to the ethics Of proper form or
| good taste to wear the brilliant hued arti-
cles.
Colors Kept in Hand.
The russet lowcut shoe worn with russell
half-hose goes we'll with the gray home
spuns and blue serges. The neutral tone
ground shirts with their contrasting stripes
| set of cravats. wherein the solid color in
the ground does not accentuate the relief
| figures Color must be kept in hand. and
| II the shirt Is always lighter in Its tones
than the cravat, and II the pattern In the
hose is neat and not obtrusive the ensemble
does not offend.
Fashions have been drifting toward color
| for the past three years. and this summer
they have almost reached the zenith of
popularity again. I look for no reaction.
except the usual one which will come If
color Is overdone. The color schemes OF
the most iamboyant nature are not fash
ionabIe and we can find in the new fabrics
prepared for the coming autumn season evil
dence that shows US that we are to return
| to more quiet effects than those in vogue
| last spring. Shirts will have neater grounds
with plenty Of color In, the stripes. Cravats
| show very intricate and very brilliant color
| effects. Units intertwine, there being little
| in the way of the clear cut geometrical and
| the hideous cord Of precise spacing.
Pleated Skirts.
I think that soft shrtsqof the pleated va
riety will be very popular next fall. They
go so well with the wing collar and the
large knot, and the low cut double breasted
waistcoat. The wings will be OF moderate
size, both square and rpund point and
would not be at all surprised to see them
worn with the old style ascots as well as
with the folded-in knots. OF course. pokes
will come in later. They will undoubtedly
| formal day wear. The best type-shows de-
| cided protruding points, not the half way.
| semistraight-sta that one sees SO much
of in cheap shops. 20 - S9..a'f - -'' '
Low collars and neglige dress have be-
come so popular that I think the turnover
and high-band collars will continue to be
favorites for general day wear. This means
renewed popularity for the four-in-hand as
we'll as for the graduated tie. Ties have
not been In very good favor for some time.
This summer the fol1r-in hand has outsold
all other cravat forms. and think it will
continue to hold the premier place.
.. Fall Waistcoats.
Waistcoats of material different from that
II. suit will be taken up to a certain extent
next fall. The very fancy affairs have
seen their best day, and do not think that
they will be worn except by men whose in
fuence on the fashions of the day are nil.
The white dOuble-breasted waistcoat will
go with the frock, and the white single and
double breasted affairs will go with the
evening coat For the evening jacket there
is the new gray madras or duck waistcoat.
Tattersall waistceats and rough weave cot
ton and silk stuffs as we'll as all the pecu-
liar and fancy weaves and cOlorS will hard
ly be taken up in shops where the best trade
is the deSideratum.
I have found that during the summer
months we are all apt to be bit careless
Of our dress. These ideas become quite
firmly fixed by fall and we are not unlikely
to let them exert their influence on our first
fall selections. Fashion turns sharply from
one season to the other, and what may
have been good for summer is not neceS-
Sarily equally as good for winter. The soft
shirt, narrow hand and rundown
collar must be supplanted by the wing col
lar, the stiff shirt and the large cravat. In
suits weight of fabric rather than pattern
tells the story of the change. The cut Of
coats and trousers vray but little and the
season ahead will doubtless see the semi
military jacket and the turnup trousers a
feature in all lounging and business suits.
The turnup idea trousers Is becoming
less POPULAR and will be but little used
next winter, while next summer l think
that it will return to all its old-time favor.
1t is a summer style and. being based on
very sensible reasons, will continue in ia
vor. The "turnup'' keeps ones trousers
from slipping over the instep and dragging
in the mud when the wearer goes suspender-
| less. So long as the summer man eschews
the suspender, so long will he turn UP the
bottoms OF his trousers.
Carrying the Watch.
The carrying of the watch in the breast
pocket Of the jacket has been most popular
this summer. It's a very smart fashion
and must say rather like it. Men who
| know how to dress have used their ordinary
gold chains or chains of oxtdized silver.
The leather alberts have been used but lit
wire. long links In gHn metal and gold. These
chains are long en0ughsto reach from the
watch up and through the buttonhole in the
lapel Of the coat and back again to tho
watch. Tyz zte
Silver and gun metal jewelry has been
worn much more, than Usual this summer.
The watch guardsIgo very well with waist
coats Of serge. homesp1n or duck. They
look better than ths1usnal gold affairs
The combinations shirts, those made Of
one material, but in two distinct patterns
have not been taken up to any extent by
the better shops. III The shirts, except in
white goods. do not appeal to the man Of
good taste, and their sale has always been
more or less limited. This is also true Of
the f1annels. These are good for country
wear. but should find no favor in town.
The attempt to INTRODUCES outre effects and
peculiar shirt styles has always met with
disfavor. The shirt makers find that the
conservative styles aree best, and as these
make-to-orStsr men really set the shirt
fashions 1t is best to follow them They
have thrown down the cross stripe bosom
the combination shirt and the flamboyant
patterns.
For Home Comfort.
With the great growth In our national
wealth a great many men have learned to
appreciate garments designed for home
comfort. The pajama has been on the
American market but a few years and its