Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-10-10
A ten DAYS., JOURNEY
Over Swollen Streams and
Mountain Paths.
SOME s. P. 6 1. WORK
TROUBLES TWO qTHrR WOMEN
HAD IN THEIR TONGA.
Hotel Experiences in the Valley Of
Kashmir Not Altogether
Joyful.
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.

Special Correspondence Of The Evening Star.
DALHOUSIE. August 81. 1903
The journey from Srinuggur, in the Valley
of Kashmir. to the hill town of Dalhousie,
which we found it necessary to make on
account of the floods in Kashmir, took us
the whole Of ten days, two by houseboat
three by driving across the mountains in
rather uncomfortable tonga" day and
night by train and two days in waiting at
the pretty little town of Pathankot, for the
roads had been made impossible by the
heavy rains. The last two days were spent
in driving over the mountains one Of the
most beautiful drives in the world, and up
the Dalhousie.
On the first day out by tonga from Bara-
moula we turned our attention entirely to
the different relays of horses which we had
found on our way into the valley four
months earlier to be in pitiable stall, but
as the viceroy was to arrive a month later
they had all been fattened up and were now
we were glad to see, in the best possible
condition. Every six miles of the drive the
horses are changed, and at only two of the
stations were we dissatisfied with the con-
dition of the animals. being terribly
lame and far from able to do the six miles
hard gallop. for the most part uphill the
other seemingly suffering from blind stag
gers. The last poor little animal we pitied
greatly, for 1t tossed it's pretty small head
in the most frantic manner and jumped
and staggered dreadfully, and finally it
was borne in upon the contemplative mind
of one of us that the bit might possibly be
the cause of all the trouble. SO at the end
of the six miles we examined the horses
mouth and found that it was covered with
blood, that its tongue was actually split,
and that the cause was. as we had thought,
a most f1endish bit.
We ba coli
upon the instrument of torture, and turn
ing fiercely to the sails. told him to tell the
manager of the stables from which the
horse had come that we had taken it and
would forward 1T at once to the burra Sahib
great master). which is the name given by
all natives to the viceroy; and that if the
horse were used again until his mouth
healed he, the manager would be arrested;
that We were closely observing all the ami
mails used on that road in order to report
to Lord Curzon.
May heaven forgive us for those lies,
for such they were l fear although to
salve over our consciences we determined
to report cruelty. IL there proved to be
much of 1t, to the gracious and lovely
vicereine, who combines sympathy with
human suffering with the same feeling for
that of the animal world. We wrapped up
that terrible Bit which con only be equaled
by the instruments of torture used by the
cruel Mexicans, and when our driver was
not looking we tossed it over steep cliff
and saw it no more. I'VE stopped not for
rain, and we stopped not for food" but
sped on in order to do our seventy-seven
miles in that first day. eating our 10 O'Clock
breakfast and our tiffin in the tonga,
flew along.
She Knew One Way.
In fact, the only delay we had was caused
by witnessing a fray between two ladies'
and their tonga driver We were waiting
to have our horses changed at small sta
u,ba in ha
ahead of us, occupied by two officers
wives, in alteration with very sullen and
important-looking driver. A question had
been asked apparently and answered with
rudeness; a rebuke was given at once, but
the man only shrugged his shoulders
laughed and said insoently: What do l
care If you report me- l will mind my own
business At that the lady who had not
far taken any part in the conversation
hoped instantly out of the tonga, and said
to the driver in commanding tone: An
swer our question civilly and at once"
The man, however only laughed. Instantly
she hit him hard over the head with her
umbrella.
He looked little frightened, but seized
her arm, great piece of impertinence in
a native, whereat the first lady flew at him.
and, forgetting all dignity, began to pun
mel him with all her strength, calling loud
ly: "Sahib! where's a sahib?' The man
had all he could do for time to manage
both women, and 1 fancy rather re-
lieved in mind when very tall young Eng
lsh sahib appeared, even though he re-
ceived smart cuff over the head and
command to salaam to the ladies at once
and beg pardon for his insolence.
Were Carried Away.
The two women looked both grateful and
crestfallen and admitted that they had
never before touched a native, that 1t was
entirely against their principles, but that
he's nv the
lence. The young officer, he proved to
be- had been secretly chuckling all the
time, and said 1t was the best thing they
could have done; that the natives were all
DULLES and towards and If all women
showed their metal in that way there would
be less trouble. We ourselves, 1 must ad-
nit agreed with him.
There is so much said against the treat
ment of the natives by the Englishman but
1T is a question which can only be justly
judged after several months experience of
them in India itself. Those we have had
to do with have been utterly irresponsible
and inconsequent and cowardly through to
the bone and DULLES; without respect for
women, and in fact. without respect for
anything except brute force: dishonest in
every way. inveterate liars, but withal
kind hearted to those in trouble to chill
dren but terribly cruel to all animals and
very greedy for money. l speak, of course.
of the servant class. The better classes
may be different but doubt 1t.
The only way in which one or two women
alone can get on in India, either in travel
Ing or housekeeping, Is by continued threats
and seedlings or by the use of stick, a
degrading but most successful method of
punishment. The best and most faithful
servant l have seen in India belonged to
an officer. the mildest tempered of men,
who confessed that he hit his man over the
head on average of once a week and
had always done SO during the twelve years
he had had him.
A Gloomy Prospect.
The first night of our long drive out of
the valley we spent at tiny place (DomeD
overhanging the deep and turbulent river
Jehlum. 1t proved TO be full to a room,
and there was no. other .dak bungalow
within twelve miles. We were filled with
despair for moment, 1as lit was dark by
this time and twelve more miles after our
drive of seventy-seven seemed quite too
much
However our minds were relieved very