Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-04-11
PRETTY HOUSE FR0CKS
New Models Shown for indoor
Wear.
COLLARLESS JACKETS
A JASPER PoNGEE IN sILvERY
GRAY.
Ribbon and Lace insertions for
the Afternoon
Dresses.

Written for The Evening Star by Harriet Hawley.
Among the notable features of dressy
gowns imported for spring wear may be
mentioned the collarless jacket with it's
elaborate trimming, the extravagant use of
pendeloques, the bizarre combinations of
cloth in delicate colorings with embroid-
cries of the most vivid tones, and the
bouffant effects attained by gauging.
Gauging is the despair of the stout wo-
man, the joy 6f the too. too slender and
the real test of the modiste's ability. 1t
must be employed with discretion by all.
for, like the average fad which springs
suddenly upon fashions horizon, it is being
carried to extremes
For soft, clinging materials, like NOUS
seine de sole, crepe de chine and alba
tross, it furnishes a pleasing finish. With
the heavier fabrics. which do not lend
themselves to fulness. it is banal.
In a Trousseau.
A dinner gown included in the trousseau
of bride Of the American colony shows
gauging in its most artistic conception.
The material Is white habutai silk, COM
bined with silk lace. The circular yoke
of the skirt is formed Of alternate rows
Of black and white insertion running up
to point in the back. From this is hung
the gagged skirt, which Is broken again,
at point about eighteen inches from the
foot with another inset of the alternate
black and white insertion. A narrow gaug-
ing is used to give the necessary fare to
the foot of the skirt, and the insertion
running up in the back gives long, sweep
ing train effect.
The yoke of the bodice Is Of the inser-
ton in alternate rows, the lower part of
gagged silk. The pouched vest Is out
lined by graduated stoleS Of the insertion
o5c rufth OF f0lde nf h1acE Fiat
streamers Of the insertion, edged with the
panne folds, fall the length Of the skirt In
the back
A dainty accessory, which will be worn
with this costume, is simple stole of ma
line, combined with black velvet. 1t Is
built from five bands of maline ruching.
less than two inches wide. sewed on plain
foundation Of the maline and separated by
black velvet baby ribbon. The finish is
an eight-inch f1ounce Of the maline. headed
with ruching of the black velvet ribbon.
Gauging the Feature.
Jasper pongee in a silvery shade of gray
is the fabric employed In another gown
in which gauging is the dominant note
The skirt has a gagged yoke fifteen inches
deep in five rows. From this the skirt
flares out to the hem like deep fiounce
the effect being increased by the use or
rows of silk braid to simulate the hem
This braid shows black, white and silver,
and shimmers in exactly the same tone as
the pongee The bodice is also gagged ana
attached to a round yoke of the silk braid
Joined by fagotting. The bertha is of gui-
pure lace, dyed to match the shade of the
silk.
Another gray gown which shows a per-
feet match in fabric and trimmings mas
been made for June bride, VINO VIII use IL
as her goipg-away gown
The foundation is gray wolfe over taneta
with fagotting Of a beautiful and intri-
cate nattern, suggestive Of the Maltese
cross The collar and yoke OF the bodice
are in one piece, shaped closely to the
throat. from alternate bands 81 TINS ea-
not around the figure. but up and down.
The yoke Is pointed in the back, and
depending from 1t Is fiat, scant cape eff
feet made of the fagottng ana a siiR 1, nahd as
fagotting, which also Stimulates glrdle
running from a point half way up the un,
der-arm seam, to point at both pack ah9
front The seams of the sleeves, outlined
by the fagotting, are decidedly bouffant
at the bottom, where they are gathered
into a shaped cuff formed of the alternate
bands of silk and fagotting
and silk bands, and the cores were out
lined by fagotting between folds o. the
wolfe. The silk folds and those OF vote
are. very fat. and the fagotting mas al
most the effect Of an inset.
with this will be worn toque OF gray
chip. trimmed with silver lace and white
osprey.
Cloth and Lace.
Several striking models in the fashion,
able shops show a peculiar combination OF
CLOTH velvet and lace in the skirts. Nota-
bly. there is a gown Of lightweight tan
broadcloth trimmed with heavy band
of velvet overlaid with guipure lace. The
collarless jacket has stole front of the
velvet and lace. and with it is worn a
bodice built on shirt-waist lines from pom
gee silk and antique lace
Gray, tan. ecru and white are the popu-
lar tones for dressy spring wear. The
white costumes are quite generally temper
ed with a dash of black
A stunning costume OF black and white
granite cloth has panels of Irish lace. out
lined by black velvet. The jacket~is fin
ished with long stole Of the lace, edged
with black velvet and gathered at the ends
with a long silk ornament. The sleeves
are of the lace fulled into a shaped cuff,
from which also depends a silken ornament.
Word comes from the authorities of white