New-York tribune., 1903-02-23
SCIENCE OF DRESS.
Its Health and Becomingness Con-
@dered from .Seuerai Points.

AT the Horace Mann School the subject of cloth
ing as factor in promoting cheeriness or the re-
verse is beginning TO be recognized having dis
tnct value said lecturer on domestic science
al the Brooklyn Institute OF Arts and Sciences on
Saturday Also the girls in the older classes are
encouraged TO criticise another's habiliments,
particularly as to hue. and to say why such shirt
waist or ribbon is admirable and 10 trace the
reasons i the beauty. though felt. is not easily
traceable 10 its source.
Teachers now are beginning also TO see that
attractive attire has strong influence pupils
and that it aids materially in promoting discipline
I'm schools particularly in the kindergarten and
the most advanced classes; the two extremes seem
peculiarly susceptible TO its effects
The Creator did not endow woman with physi-
cal strength; the strongest woman IS weaker than
the weakest man. But He gave her the power
10 please. and, by using this. women have often
eclipsed the mere brute strength Of the men whom
they wished to circunvent One has but to read
history TO this. Now. dress intensifes and
nagnifes this power-artistic dress. that is:
how important it is TO understand fully. the means
of multiplying our source Of power
Certain colors soothing, others cheering and
eEhilarating On a bright, hot day delicate gray
blue refreshing; cold, shivery day a
bright vivid RED touch in vicinity is distinctly
comforting. Then IN regard to the wearer's per-
sonality, coIors must be chosen Judciously. It is
found that 10 have portion OF the costume in
2 touch Of harmony match the eyes has always
becoming effect. Some, indeed. have gone far
say that q woman should only two
colors. those Of her hair and eyes Many women
however, have brown hair and eyes, and these
would by this rule be doomed 70 great rnonotony-
The choice Of colors reveals traits of character
Persons fond OF red have the animal traits pre-
Dominating; those preferring the violet the spirit
With regard TO lines the eye should not be Of
Tended in putting trimming. Lines following the
construction Of the garment are always pleasing
that is parallel 10 the seams foot of the skirt
Any useless ornament also is inartstic; bow, sim
ply put On a bow, without any meaning, is false
AT IN dress In the two opposing styles Of dress
each has its value; the tailor made is trim, trfg
end the flowing loose picture dress beaut1ful
II its own way. II is for the wearer to use her
own judgment which is most betting her own
"Cnderclothing is the most important part Of
There are four kinds Of material of which Under.
clothing Is cOnsIructed-Wool silk cotton and
Rool for the reason that it does not evaDorate
Sr so randy as the Others OH PHI fToWe frames % are
Eon a warm day VIII send forth quart Now:
1naterial. respectively Of wool silk cotton and
linen. in four glasses of water. you will find tnat
ne wool viii become charged with water raster
a The others In underoiothig& & wool Lis is Faa6le oiaf
thap the others. for rapid p evaporation produces
~ But T5 DGf nnlV ~ the question Of material is i'm
portant- That Of weave is also OF weight, "a
an5 arT motE5 tfan tightly woven one That is why
shrurken voollen underclothing is valueless. and
ironed. 6ut Shaken dry The little downy fbres
that give a rvooIly surface and sanitary are
hattered by ironing. One often sees cotton under
clothing Iarded g being and healthful as
Eooen7 Il never can be SO. because of the rapid
cialy praised for retaining the electricity OF the
body but then on the other hand. il keeps the
electricity of the air out, which neutrailzes the
effect In reality, cotton linen ana SILK are ABOUT
equal IN "a uftsrv value for undeTclothing-
The warmth Of our clothing is much afected Dy
its being loose or tight Moderately loose clofhnS
IS varrnest Skin tight sleeves are very coIo;
mociaed bishop sleeves are much warmer Ogg-
srJal garments are cool because they are ehces-
Eirely loose. The corset is a garment which was
invented 10 single oct the women VINO dlo NOT need
10 work from those who did The first corset had
broad wooden supports behind and In front, and
the wearer was tightly laced up In H. Corsets are
injurious ,..
doned. Several substitutes for the corset nave
been introduced but the idea garment Mnlch
should take its place has yet TO be invented 1lght
collars also a great evil Ifey interfere Will
the flow OF The venous blood, and cases OF eye ana
brain trouble have been induced by them ShI1v-
elled necks are another unpleasant result OF thls
fashion, OF which there hopeful signs or belng
Those members which bear the weight OF the eilIe
body should be clad 70 work easily Porous
leather is most healthfui, allowing the moisture
of o ruSSet leather Is the Dest oh
this account Every should nave her snoes
loose that she is perfectly comfortable IN theh
after three-mie walk. ano does not heeo 10 re-
move them.
Every woman who wishes Tor . heaIIn SrioIIa S ~
spend least hour IL aculVe exercise IN ~
open air daily. and IL walking Is the e1efeise
chosen II should not be done at slower rate eaAh
three miles hour"