The daily journal. (Salem, Or.) 1899-1903, 1903-02-28

For this reason there is a formidable
struggle for supremacy on between
the plume and the flower. The great.
est drawback Of the feather lies in
its readiness to droop when exposed
to dampness and its almost constant
need of recurring which is inconveni-
ent If not expensive. On the other
hand the flower, no matter how ex-
pensive or exquisitely colOred, easily
succumbs tothe withering rays Of Old
Sol or saline effects OF ocean breeze.
The desire. however, to reproduce
the beauties Of rs.ure as subtly as
possible. gives the flower point
ahead in the game.
But the woman of fashion devotes
no time TO the discussion Of the pros
and cons Of the subject With fifteen
or twenty hats at her disposal she can
afford to change often enough TO
avoid the ravages wrought by climatic
conditions and the less fortunate sis.
ter who cannot follow suit, must be
content to duplicate two or three Of
her neighbors best models in less ex.
pensiye materials. for hats. like
gowns. are more Of a luxury than ever
this season.
Women who in the past trimmed
and even made their own hats, best
appreciate the difficulties of the pres
ent fashions in millinery. SO subtle
are the curvings and upturnings Of
brims and sa deft the arrangement
Of the trimmings that only one to the
manner trained may hope TO achieve
success in the art. Better a smart
shape and the simplest of trimming
adjusted by a master hand than an
elaborate creation bunglingly handled
these days.
White, cream and biscuit color
chiffon hats are exceedingly smart for
dress wear one in the last named
tint and OF the expansive variety is
especially pretty Under the brim
there IS a geranium red velvet band
just wide enough 10 make the hat set
comfortably on the head. This, how.
ever, Is hidden by a wreath OF silk and
velvet geraniums varying in tint from
dark crimson TO pale rose Resting
lightly on top OF the hat Is a rosette
Ia ha
shades OF the flowers with a sugges-
tion Of dark blue The hat completes
an afternon cown Of red and tan fou.
lard.
Another fetching hat, worn with a
costume OF pale champagne tint, is Of
Tuscan stpaw trimmed with vivid rose
huos in flowers and velvet, The shape
is somewhat eccentric, having a mar.
row crown over which spreads a brim
so compressed that the edge is almost
sharp. The flowers are wreathed
around the edge Of the brim and the
ribbon laid loosly In the space be-
tween with only a glimpse here and
there TO heighten the ensemble
a simple frock Of grey can be com.
pletcd with a chapeau Of feathery
green ferns, whether Il be for a wo-
man Of fifty of a girl Of eighteen.
Ferns give a hat a light airy finish
that reminds one Of dark woods and
babbling brooks. and such trimmings
are acceptable because they are near
10 natures heart Though II cannot
be said that the fashionable world is
awakening from It's "long winter
sleep anything that suggests spring
Is hailed with delight Hyacinth hats
are displayed in some OF the exclusive
Firth avenue establishments and ad-
mired by men as well as women. The
lilac effects are most sought. for blue
purple tints always set in with
strenuous vogue about this time and
spring would seem incomplete with.
out them. A model which has all the
appearance OF an imported design has
the crown composed entirely of lilac
hyacinths. The wide brim is Of soft
folds Of purple tafieta somewhat fray
ed out and made TO resemble rough
straw as much as possible. The shape
rests on the hair at the back-a dis
tinguishing feature-and here a wide
old gold buckle Is employed from