The daily morning journal and courier., 1903-07-10
ON THE WAY. TO CUZCO.
4 PILGRIMAGE TO THE BIRTH-
 PLACE

Of an Ancient Civilization The oId- Time Inca Capital Interesting Scenes A Fine Gold Chain.
 Special Correspondence of the Journal and Courier.)
 Cuzco, Pedu, June 3, 1903. It would be pity for the sojourner in this part of Peru to miss seeing CuZeo,
 the ancient capital of the Incas, though
 the journey thereto is exceedingly tire
 some and rarely undertaken by travel CTS ''of the feminine persuasion" Iia- deed, I doubt if any Anglo Saxon fe-
 males but ourselves have ever visited
 the place-unless perhaps Mrs. Agassiz may have done so when she assisted her
 husband so bravely in his South Amer
 ican researches. However, the journey is neither so long nor so difficult as sev-
 eral others which we propose to make
 in the wilder parts of this continent. In going to Cuzco ones plans must
 be carefully matured in advance, mak-
 ing all possible provision tgainst hitch
 es in the programme and accidents that may occur. One must be sure that the
 rainy season is we'll over, for there are
 many bridgeless streams to be forded that become impossible torrents in which man and beast are swept away during the annual time of rain. Of
 course one or two foreigners can hardly
 make the pilgrimage by themselves in safety, and the average tourist is strongly advised to do as we did, viz,
 to engage the services. as guide and es-
 cord, of Senor Hanfieldt, a well-known
 Arequipanean who makes business
 trips to Cuzco regularly each month.
 Knowing every yard of the route and all the people thereabouts. he can tell
 exactly what to do and what not to do,
 and-more important still-wiu supply suitable allicals and honest servants,
 which the stranger would find great
 difficulty in securing himself. .''5
 The cost of the round trip. including
 railway fare, horses, mules and all ex-
 penses en route, not counting whatev-
 CT provisions one chooses to carry, Is
 about twenty-five dollars per capita;
 and the time occupied each way varies
 from five to seven days, according to ones endurance in the saddle. There
 are no hotels along the route, and one
 must depend entirely upon private hos
 pitality, which is freely accorded to
 those who bring letters of recommen-
 dation. Every village has it's >tafilbo,
 however, similar to the inns of Egypt in Mary's time, wherein the animals are
 fed and sheltered, and where one might manage to ''put up' in case of stern ne eessity, depending upon ones own sup
 ply for food, or foraging among the
 neighbors; but it is always easy to ob- tain i1troductions to the Cure of each village and the families of well-to-do
 farmers, and through them to be more comfortably housed. In providing the outfit for this jour ney one should not forget that to offer money in payment for food and lodging
 outside of a public house would bere-
 scented as an insult by these hospftable
 people;* and therefore one must go stocked like a. pack-peddler with gifts in order~to "get evenp with ones en- tertainers. Bottles of good wine are all ways acceptable also butter, tea, canned goods and other similar Iuxu- ries which are rare in the interior of South America: and of course not for
 getting trifles to please the ladies, such as bright ribbons, fans. etc. Eggs are cheap and plenty, but though there are cows on all the wayside farms, milk is never obtainable. Tn any case, enough
 bread to last the entire trip should be
 taken from Arequipa, because thaugh it becomes as hard and dry as the sur
 rounding rocks. it is infinitely prefera-
 ble to the black. unleaven Jumps of
 dough in use among the country people. Timed beef, ham, fish and fruit are in- dispensable, with condensed milk and
 boxes of English biscuits, or crack ers," as Americans call them. As one suffers greatly from thirst along the road, the water being warm and not al- ways obtainable, it is best to prepare every morning the days supply of cold tea, mixed with claret and sugar What little butter is to be found in this region is odd enough to deserve para graph. If one is not a sufficiently good traveller to forego butter entirely, he must pay almost it's weight in silver for pale, lardy sort of lubricator, wrapped up in bladders, In square packages
 weighing about two pounds each. Be- ing thus hermetically sealed, it will
 keep" indefinitely, if the air Is not let in; but when once opened, it proceeds
 to become nasty with marvellous rapidi- ty, and in days time will fill the air with an odor beside which Limberger
 cheese is as altar of roses.
 Going from Arequipo to Cuzco one
 may now save, nearly half the time in
 the saddle by riding due east on the Molltndo, Cuzco and Puno railway 10
 Juliaca (pronounced Hool-yack-ah), a
 distance of one hundred and eighty
 nine miles, and then changing to the
 Cuzco division of the road for Santa Roso, the present terminus, eighty-two miles in a northwesterly direction. As there are no hotels in either of those important towns, Juliaco or Santa Rosa
 nothing better than an empty car to sleep in--one is advised to go on to Puno and take fresh start next day, back over the same road to the junc- tion. Even in Puno the public accom- modations are little better than none, al ie To-