The daily morning journal and courier., 1903-09-11

itabIes may be made to assume. Here on a piece of toast is tiny bit of her. ring with chopped-up carrot placed
 around 1t: there is caviare on black bread one of the most popular comes- I tibles in Russia. At one end of the counter lies sucking pig entire, glor- iously adorned with parsley, and with lemon in its mouth. At the other end | is a deep-hued ham, and between are salads innumerable, tomatoes, beetroot, eggs covered with thick sauce and dainty morsels of Siberian game. Per, | haps the most beautiful object is mys- terious composition, which appears to
 consist of pork, overlaid with cunning
 design in carrots, jelley, pickles and kidney beans, more ingenious and
 captivating than Carthaginian mosaic. Indeed, it seems almost proclamation to eat any of these things. so pleasing are they to the eye. But the attendant l is peremptory: it is necessary to make aschoice at once. and to wash it down with a glass of vodka, which is drunk as liquor. It is transparent and colorless as water, but is fiery beveage for all that and is pre9ared from rye and potatoes. It has been defined as dis titled damnation, and must be taken at
 a draught for the slipping of it is con- lsidered proof of enjoyment, and there fore, according to the Russian, of a fu- ture sojourn in the place of eternal tornment. This is the zakuska, which in Russia and in Sweden is taken sanding before the real meal begins to excite the ap- petite, or as is more likely, to help the hungry visitor to wait for the dish that he has ordered. When the zakuska is finished it is time to sit down at table and to begin with bortch. Borteh is the national soup and the Russian is as proud of it as the Englishman of roast. beef. And it must be confessed, that l bortch is an admirable preparation. It l is deep red, being made from beetroot, but only the experienced can tell what treasures are hidden in its depths. Onions are swimming on the top, beneath the surface a tomato is not i'm probably concealed. and at the bottom 1 lies chop succulent as young chick I en, while as if this&were not enough, | the waiter brings a toureen that con- tains sour cream, which should be eaten with soup. It is quite possible to make la whole dinner of bortch-soup. vege- tables, meat-and is not wonderful that the Russian likes it to form the first course for his dinner on saints day, for which he has perhaps pre- pared himself by rigorous fast. + After the soup comes fish. Russia is famous for it's fish. The .Volga and the Caspian produce huge strugeon, while the stretlet is considered a great deIcacy. And the Russians excel in the variety and preparation of their dishes, for the climate seems to neeessi- tate the consumption of large quantities | sian eats as much as a German police man, three Frenchmen and two English men. Jojarsky outlets form another national dish. Josjarsky was mighty
 warrior. who, wasted fields and slaughtered men when Muscovy was hard pressed by Poles and Cossacks,' and 1t isanot very easy to see what he has do with the chicken outlets that are called after him, and are so soft that toothless people may delight in them. Buildings do not see-s to be much ap-
 reciated in the Ian silof the czar, but. there are few countries in
 which sich delici9us cakes X may be had. The Poles, the French of Rus sia, excel in making them. As for wines, the visitor may order Tokay. Sauterine or Boirdeaux, but if he does
 he must understand that they the produce of a wine that yPhas been Drought
 from different countFisssin Europe and cultivated! with much Success on the
 sunny hills that fringe the Criniea. And last comes coffee, or the inevitable
 tchai the famous tea, which is drtink in tumblers without milk, but with plenty of sugar and slice of lemon floating at
 the top.-London Globe.