davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-02

shoulder and suggestions Of the old-time
gigot shape
But now comes the reign of the pelerine
and scarf worn low off the shoulders and
closely drawn around the top OF the arms
With the mousselines, laces, &c, which
are now worn as scarfs this mode may not
interfere with the gigot sleeve; but there is
in the air rumor that furriers are prepar-
ing shaped pelerines for the coming season
and that many OF these will be like the old
fashioned short capes, save for the stole
fronts--that they will not reach to the elbow
and will fit tightly around the shoulders and
upper arm. II the model wins favor, OF
which there is no certainty, the sleeve rather
close fitting at the top and introducing
its fulness lower will continue It's vogue,
but cuffs will undoubtedly be much wider
than the Wristbands so long favored.
The pelerine yoke appears upon many
frocks intended for early autumn wear
and is merely a close-fitting yoke coming
down almost to the armpits and extending
over the sleeve top and giving an exag-
geratedly long shoulder line. Plated bo-
leros or bodices are mounted on these
Jokes, which may be straight or curving in
line.
The yoke is seen, too, upon some OF the
smartest OF the new shirt waists and sep
crate blouses; but here it does not, as rule,
take the extreme pelerine form and is more
like the old-time shirt waist yoke, only
with some device to lengthen the shoulder
line slightly.
Shirt waists in flannel and in hea w mer-
oerized cheviots and vestin 90 are being
made by the thousa nd now for autumn
service, and the unlined blouse or shirt
waist OF fine faced cloth which was 80 popu-
lar with Partisan women last winter will !,
according to some of the most exclusive
houses, have great favor here this season.
The cloth comes in such beautiful quality
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-02

and such exquisite colorin IS that it is
admirable for the purpose, and though of
| course. in the light shades it soils readily
it cleans perfectly and at little expense
| One buyer has already sent over some
sample blouses of this kind, severely tail
ored, but in pastel shades and with stunning
| buttons and chic cravlts and girdles
One, less severe in detail, though merely
| a shirt waist in outline, is of finest cloth in
| flamingo red and has seams and plating
| fagoted with black over white lining, A black
stock and grdle accompany the blouse,
but the stock is embroidered in white and
has line of white next the face.
If prophecies come true velvet and vel
veteen will be immensely popular this fall
J for separate blouses n for entire costumes
and panne will be successful trimming,
Dotted materials have been worn so
| generally during the spring and summer
| that one might expect decline in their
| popularity, but the new samples, both in
| thin and heavy stuffs show a liberal number
Of dotted designs.
Dotted muslns, with the very tiny dots
set close together, have bsen favorites with
tho French dressmakers this summer,
and silk mousselines, chiNfons, batistes,
| nets and silks are all sprinkled with dots,
usually in self color.
Two Of the evening frooks shown in the
| large cut are in dotted mousselne, and ono
! Of these models is particularly simple and
attractive with groups of valenciennes
ruches on each founce of its triple skirt,
| its bertha and its full short sleeves. These
lace ruchings and frils are among the con-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-02

the other night was of very soft taffeta
in tiny grass green 9nd white check
1t was made with full skirt, shirred
into the waist band, yet cut so that it chung
around the hips and broke into excessive
fulness only toward the bottom. This
skirt, barely touching all around. was
trimmed in narrow ruffles set on at inter-
walls and edged with narrow Valenciennes,
the little heading also having the lace edge.
The fun blouse had bertha and outer
sleeves OF three ruffles trimmed in lace.
A guimpe and full untersleeves OF white
mousseIlne were inset with lace and there
were lace-edged frills at throat and wrists.
A folded girdle Of soft green silk had
sash ends inset with lace and with the frock
was worn broad fiat hat of tiny white
mousseine folds around which ran tiny
frills Of lace. This plateau was bound in
narrow green velvet and had no trimming
on its upper side, but underneath the brim
were little white roses and foliage,
Quaint eighteenth-century frocks Of
plain or shot taffeta similar in line to this
one are made for house wear with mousse
line fchus and elbow sleeves ending in
deep mOusseline frills.
These mousseline sleeve frills are much
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-02

arms, and three more crying about tho
kitchen floor. chase the flies, wait on me
table while three men and two bows emf
then feed herself and the childre,,
clear away tho things wash the dishes
put the children to sleep, darken the house
plan things for supper, take In the wash
get ready for ironing at night, wash and
dress the little ones, make supper and, last
OF all. clean up for the day. Sometimes I
don't blame the girls for escaping work
like this by going to the factories FOR good
wages and short hours.
Would / marry a farmer? You mean
would l. had l to live my life over again
Maybe not. 1 think I'd coax Jacob 10 get
at other work and not lease a farm"
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-02

and boys or relatives. The millsmaid is
thing of the past. Boys, generally, do
that work now. The old-fashioned butter
churn has fallen to pieces in the back cellar
Farmers are now buying butter for their
table.
The maid servant of olden times who
baked in the old-fashioned oven in the
back yard has given that up, and the farmer
buys his bread. On some farms they use
canned tomatoes and say it Is cheaper
to buy them, as the women folks had no
time to make garden.
farmers wife thus expressed herself;
"We are farming this place Of 1925 acres
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-02

Of fashions, but they know that the great
Partisan arbiters Of dress are out and away
from Paris now.
Ravishing toilettes may he seen in the
Bots, where all the world goes TO break
fast and to dine In the famous restaurants,
but with the Grand Prix the Paris season
was practically ended and now the fashion
able people are fitting from one resort to
another. swing ing around the circuit OF
watering places prescribed by tradition
and wearing their most chic toilettes for
beach and casino and races
In their wake go tho dressmakers and
the buyers who know the ropes, noting
comparing. gathering suggestions. sum
ming UP possibilities. collecting ideas that
will develop into facts little later. when
model gowns are put on view for the benefit
Of buyers.
Occasionally some obscure little ecu
turiere may have a moment Of inspiration
and may put into fTock note of strikin g
originality. The artist sees the tetsil,
appreciates its possibilities, seizes upon it,
and new mode is launched, but the little
couturiere has none OF the credit. Nor
does this same unimportant individual
have credit for the ideas she furnishes
directly to the master dressmakers.
There Ia prevalent idea that q man like
Psquin goes into retirement, sets his brain
ct work and evolves new fashion. Some
times he does. More often seamstress,
q work woman in his own establishment,
perhaps, or an outside dressmaker I'm
known and without power to launch mode
herself brings models, suggestions for new
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-02

on shares. Nv husband and the two boys
manage the barn and farm work. | and
my eightoen-year-Cd daughter run the
house. Whom she gets married wen be
short of help. ! adopted an eight year
old girl and viii raise her to help ME as
my daughter did We can't hire maid
servants.
Girls are getting away from the farms
In nine case out of ten where you see
maid servant on n farm she IL near rela-
tive of the farmer or his wife. She il
treated as one OF the family. and the wife
must work along with her, What used to
be known as farm drudgcry for women is
very little known nov.
"One girl know who used 10 do milking
Mt the barn for 81 jOa week and board now
is a silk weaver in town at $40 n week. Yes
terday there was girl nj our plac" who
last year drove a pair of horses pulling a
land roller over a rIoughed ;en-acre field
She suddenly quit form work ard il now
earning 81 a week in IA stocking factory.
Another girl who one time nearly suf-
located in dust from a threshing machine
in a barn where she was working back the
straw. threw down her rake and vowed
she a quit She is now corning $40 a week
AZ an expert cigar packer In city factory.
l might give MANY other instances Of how
things are changing on Eastern farms
"A farmers wife often has to do the
family wash at 3 o'clock on Monday morn
ing, cook the dinner with a child In her
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-02

almost any one; but the blending Of several
shades of the one color, which has been
seen in sumner millinery and will be a
feature in the fall frocks and hats, should
be attempted only by one who has the
artist 8 eye, and we shall probably see shock
ing blunders.
The very popularity Of the fuchsia colors
may lead ITO their Introduction into cheap
goods and initiate against them, and the
warm browns and greens and bluets will
he preferred by many. A dark chocolate
brown promises well and there is some
favor for mouse gray and other demure
gray shades.
Straw color, buff, and pale pink-all
part and parcel of Louis XIV. and Louis XVI
modes-are among the light tints for which
much favor IL expected, Among the new
shot silks are some lovely examples Of the
harmonious minglng of the straw yellow
and pink. glowing with an iridescent sheen.
Self shot taffetas, that il silk woven in two
shades Of the ono color, are liked and there
are some very charming watered effects
in the lightweight silks.
silk is assuming an Importance it has
not held in Many years; and, oddly enough
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-02
GIRLS DESERT THE FARM.
Quit Life OF Drudgery for Higher Pay
and shorter Hours I'M the City.

READING, Pa, Aug, l.--Courtry girls
are now getting 81. S. and 80 a week for
domestic service in the cities. Others
earn from IS to s. a week in the city fac
tories. Men from the country work in
the cities for 81 IS and 81 a day for eight
hours, instead Of toiling twelve hours on
the farm at 81 so a day.
These conditions have stripped the
farms of eastern Pennsylvania OF their
labor supply and have left the harvesting
to the tenant farmer and his family Of girls
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-02

lace bordering band of Venetian guipure
and finishing the pointed d6colletage of
the bodice.
Black lace has considerable prestige
this season and Is used for inset designs
for whole robes, for bands. frills, capes,
&c, Narrow black lace edges the frills Of
mousselnes and other materials dotted in
black, and deep black lace collars or peler-
ines are sometimes the one striking note
of frock In pale tint, as is the case with
one pale rose pink frock sketched here.
This frock also illustrates tho unduIat ing
line OF trimming in the ruches which are
set at intervals upon the full skirt. Undu-
lating gauging upon heavy cord is another
expression Of this same fancy for waved
lines.
The difficulty of shaping an old skirt
into a new one is thing that is exercising
many feminine minds, for the trotteuse, or
French walking skirt, is a thing accom-
plished, and gradually, all skirts, save those
for dress occasions, are shortening and
taking on round line. Even this state
ment is hardly radical enough; for, while
long, trailing skirts are still the favorites
for evening wear, many frocks intended
for elaborate functions are now made with
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-02

Bleeve, a new collar, new skirt. a new
trimming scheme. to the man Of power,
and II he sees possibilities in them he buys
them and develops them.
All this Judging, sorting, experimenting
Is going on now. Next month, when hun
dreds Of dressmakers and buyers will flock
to Paris, the results will be seen. and later,
when the public has passed Judgment,
the seasons mode will BIO settled. For,
after all, the public is the final court of APP
peal, and many an idea vouched for by
the greatest dressmakers fails TO find ac-
ceptanoe among stubborn womankind;
though, as a rule, the made in Paris" label
will reconcile the average woman to any
mode, however bizarre and unbecoming.
From the advance c0urieTs who are
chasing the elusive autumn fashion, hints
and prophecies come floating back, COM
b!ned with wild eulogies of midsummer
sartorial glories One man who usually
speaks authoritatvely, writes to his firm
that il will be perfectly safe to plan ones
house and evening frocks along lines al
ready tried. Though there will. of course ,
be new and interesting details in trimming,
&c, the general character Of such frocks
will not be radically changed. The full
skirts, round skirts, pelerine effects, ruch-
ings, founcings, &C. will not have run
their course this summer and will continue
In favor through the winter.
In regard to tailor and street frocks
however says this expert. Eve must re-
serve Judgment. There things arc rather
uncertain and chaotic.
The extreme fulness and elaboration
oS the thin frocks won't do for the heavier
stuffs. and the question IL how are the
makers going to reconcile the fashionable
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-02

OF lace or embroidery are set on material
in straight or undulating lines.
Much Of the skirt trimming Of the new
frocks follows an undulating line; although
in lace bands, the straight edge is preferred
to the wearing edge so popular in the spring.
An exception is made to this rule, the
coral pink mousseline frock among these
small cuts, which is trimmed in waving lines
of black lace and has these lines OF black
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-02
silk and lace coats in the cool days Of early

silk and lace coats in the cool days Of early
autumn.
These colors are not so unbecoming as
would appear at first glance, but each
woman must choose her tint carefully; for
even a slight variation may produce dis
astrous results Some women can wear the
Others look better in the tints in which
blue predominates The lighter shades are
more becoming than the darker to certain
compilations.
Care in choice and the slsilful use Of re-
lieving white or ecru about the face will
make these modish colors practicable for
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-02

sweeping The fiOOr,
To shorten a skirt may seem an easy
matter. but the extrems width required
at the bottom of the round skirts makes it
practically impossible to do Ill the shorten
ing at the bottom, and sadly complexities
the making-over problem. The only really
satisfactory method Of alteration in most
cases ia to rip the entire skirt and CIT it
over again, using a good round skirt pat
tern.
The corset skirt Of many cores, which
has followed the corset coat of from sixteen
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-02

tafreta which was supposed TO be almos
dead, is having things much its own way.
Fully three-fourths Of the new silks are
In taTeta weaves but they are a reformed
taffeta, devoid of the old-time cracking
stiffness, and containing so little dressing
that they may be pulled and shirred and
r,lched as readily as mousseline, and will
fall in soft folds.
Dotted silks, Pompdour silks, striped
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-02

evidence upon wool frocks as well as on
silk ones, The frills may fall over the hand
on long sleeve, or from beneath a wide
turn back cuff at the elbow On dressy
frocks they often form the whole full
elbow sleeve below wide but short outer
sleeve that is little more than a cap.
This question Of sleeves is the most puz-
zng point in autumn modes and no one
seems 10 know definitely what we may
expect. For some time past there has been
n movement toward pushing the fulness
up the arm, and many Of the summer frocks
hive shown considerable fulness mt the
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-08-02
FALL DRESS TOPICS.
A Crisis in the Matter of
Street Frocks.
signs OF MANNISH STYLES.
Women May Take Up the
Severe Tailor Gowns Again.

Diniculty OF RecOpcilins the Present Modes
with the Heavier StuTs for Fall Wear
No Great Changes Expected I'm House
and Evening Gowns-A Rage for the
Resi-B shades-They Are Trying to
Some women-sIeeyes a Great Puzzle
Just N0w--FOrecasts OF Autumn Modes.
The betwixt and between season of
fashion is here. While summer modes
are too definitely settled to be Of thrilling
interest autumn modes are still in the
sir--or, to speak more accurately, are in
the brains OF the great dressmakers.
Already some American buyers are in
Europe on the trail of future modes. but
these early birds are not in Paris. Later,
they will gravitate toward that birthplace
The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1903-09-21
Lydia e. Pinkham's Vegetable Compound.

had the chance to see two teams OF the
big league There was game scheduled
for Palace Garden between two
teams OF tho American league, the Chica-
gos and the Clevelands but for some un-
accountable reason the latter could fulfill
their part OF the contract. The result was
that the management had TO scamper
around TO get some suitable team TO OPP
pose the visitors Many people who went
there TO see the game were so disap-
pointed that they left for Rocky Point not
caring 10 see the farce that must take
place when n small team is up against a
team like the Clevelands
The weather also was not conducive 20
baseball enthusiasm and the crowd had TO
divide its time between efforts 20 keep
warm and attempts TO arouse an interest
in the bit OF listless sport The team that
was up against the big men was selected
from all the available talent In Provi-
dence. Pawtucket and vicinity. The feat
ure OF the game was back hand catch
by Isbell
The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1903-09-21
BOXING EV MIS- FOR THE WEEK

The game Of MI and get away is on
the boom for this week and many in
teresting bouts Will be decided. The one
of most interest to people OF this vi
cinity is that on at Scituate tomorrow
night, when Bob Armstrong will be seen
I'm the ring He will meet Steve O'Don-
nell In 2O-round contest. Each OF the
men Is In the best OF condition and the
fight ought to be the best seen In this
section for some time.
At Philadelphia Terry McGovern, who
has been resting since his last defeat by
Young Corbett. Is TO return TO the ring.
lie has a stiff cos stumer to so against.
At the same city Bob Fitzsmmons will
also make his re-entry into the ring
against a heavyweight that believes he
Is a coming champion
The opening meeting at Boston will be
at the Central club tonight. Joe Wal
colt and Tommy Carey OF New York will
be the stars Though Walcott defeated
Carey In seven rounds some months ago
the latter will prove hard proposition
for Walcott
Wednesday night the Criterion club will
present a bout between Jack (twin) Sui
Ivan and George Cole the big Phiia-
deiphia colored boxer. This will be theh
second meeting at the club. they having
met lDcFt SOME HOnlnH ago. DulnNdn
on.y winning on points by narrow mar
gin.
The bout is LIMITED to Is rounds and
while IL may last the limit tho members
will see a coed contest. The eight pre-
fiminaries will be between local talent
At the Brighton club Thursday night
Fred BrysOn. the idol OF the waltham
sports Is To meet Kid Grlffo OF Phila-
delphia IN the main event Both are fast
and clever The prelininaries will be
well worth seeing.
Eddie tenny OF Philadelphia. reputed
TO be one Of the best featherwelghts In
the. country. Is 20 meet Kid Goodman In
the star bout at the meeting Of the
Lenox club Friday night. Lenny has
never been seen IN this city but he has
done some clever work I'm other cities
that the followers Of the game here
know that he will give Goodman as
tough 40 as he has had for n long
time.
Block Fitssimmons Of Philadelphia.
who defeated Mike Brennan. the Porta
Costa giant last week will meet Hyde
for the colored championship Of New Eng
land in the opening preliminary contest.
The other live bouts viii be between local
favorites
The main contest al the Roxbury club
The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1903-09-21

Saturday night will be between Sidney
the promising colored boxer. and Joe Nell
son OF Chelsea. who Is fast coming TO the
front. There will be three prelminaries.
MONDAY.
Joe Walcott VS. Tom Carey, Billy Ryan
VS.. Johnny Quigley and Eddie Carr VS..
Al belmont, Central club.
Billy Gardiner VS.. Danny Duane, George
Ashley We, Max Freeman and Guy Ashley
VS.. Kid Hessel, Troy club. Fall River.
Philadelphia Jack O'Brien VS.. Charley
Haighey, Newcastle. Eng.
TUESDAY.
Terry McGovern VS.. Sammy Smith.
Philadelphia Bob Armstrong VS.. Steve
O'Donnell. Scituate.
WEDNESDAY
Jack CTwin) Sullivan VS.. George Cole,
Young Sidney vs.. Kid Fitzgerald and
Jack Carew VS.. Frank Bouttilier. Crite-
rion club.
THURSDAY.
Fred Bryson VS. Kid Griffo, Matty Bald
win VS. George Murray and Jimmy Han
Ion VS.. Kid Pantz. Brighton club.
FRIDAY.
Eddie Lenny VS.. Kid Goodman, Black
Fitzsmmons VS.. Rogardus Hye, Jack
Foley VS. Peter Sweeney and Young
Bernstein VS.. Tom Burns. Lenox club
Bob Fitzsimmons vs.. Con Coughlin,
Philadelphia.
Tim Harrington VS.. Chick Monahan,
Brockton.
SATURDAY.
Young Sidney VS.. Joe Nelson. three
other bouts. Roxbury club.
The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1903-09-21
HbakE OUTLOOK

Though the grand circuit racing ended
It's season in the East last week with the
close OF the Breeders meet there are six
weeks moro of sport before the entire
sea son closes and despite the fact that
this has been a remarkable year I'm the
way OF record breaking there Is possibil-
ity OF much new history of the turf being
made The horses still have some fast
tracks 20 go over and many important
events are still TO be decided
This week the horses which have been
following the big line will be at Column
bus. O.. next week they will be at Oakley
Park. Cincinnati. and from the latter city
they will go TO Lexington. KY. for tho
two weeks meeting Of tho Kentucky
Horse Breeders association. Then comes
eight DAYS racing at Memphis. Tenn
which practically closes the season for
the harness horses
With the close of the meeting AZ Read
willie last Friday n recess Of two weeks
was called in mile track racing here In
New England. This week affti -ffrxt witt be
given over 20 the fairs. and then the
gates az old Sangus will be opened for
l0-days' meeting. which will be the last
mile-track racing IN the north this year
Racing ana fast time alone considered
the meeting az Readville last week was
one of the very best held by the New
England breeders association. In fact.