The Saint Paul globe., 1903-08-30

NEW YORK, Aug. 29.-Coats, cloaks,
scarfs, all the various garments that
are classified as wraps, have during the
past year assumed an Importance they
never before attained in the American
woman's wardrobe, and through them
one more note of extravaganza has
been introduced into the outfit of the
fashionable woman.
The summer girl, who is well equip
ped this season, has carried a SeaShOre
or mountain and evening cloak, driv-
ing or motor coat, short and more or
less elaborate coat of pale-hued cloth,
canvas or silk; for afternoon wear
big tailor coat, preferably of covert
cloth; ScarfS, pelerineS, dinner or ball
or veranda coates, and, in addition
number of coats which are integral
parts of morning and afternoon cos
tunes.
Possibly it is out. of consideration for
such profusion of wraps that the
weather clerk has provided SO cool
summer. Certainly women have had
opportunities for showing all their
dainty wraps They have even had oc-
casion to sigh for coats of materials
warmer than pongee, lace, or unlined
cloth. and the European custom of
donning furs with summer muslins
bids fair to gain a hold in this country
If the climate persists in being eccen-
tric.
The most exquisite little wraps of
lace, chiffon velvet, cloth, or silk, half
short bolero, half cape, and wholly pic
turesque, have been used during the
spring and summer for wear with dec
gillette evening gowns, and are slipped
on between dances or for wear on
breezy verandas and in draughty cast
nos. The empire scarf also serves this
purpose, and though not so effective Is
more generally worn and more easily
designed.
The woman who wears such a scarf
we'll is almost as rare as the dodo, but
the knack of wearing it will come with
practice, if the fad endures, and the
scarf has wonderful possibilities of art
and charm when it is properly handed.
Plain tulle, either in black or white,
with deep, full frill of the tulle run
ming all around, makes a most becom-
ing and inexpensive scarf, and chiffon
or silk mousseline may be treated in
the same way.
Scarfs in Order.
With lingerie frocks scarfs of soft
French mule have been Partisan ia
vorites, but these scarfs in their sue
cessful form are delicately embroidered
by hand in trailing vines and garlands,
and possibly have inset motifs of lace
or open work embroidery. Hand en-
broidery and inset lace also decorate
many of the scarfs of chiffon, tulle,
ETC., and on scarfs Of soft silk or crepe
deep fringe often finishes the border.
An irregular, waVy border of filmy
lace with inset design of correspond
ing lace and shadowy flower garlands
painted in water color will make
chiffon scarf a thing of beauty and yet
may be contrived at home by clever
fingers. Certain of the great Parsisian
dressmakers now include scarf as
part Of almost every dinner or evening
frock turned out, and furnish one with
many an afternoon frock. The woman
who has among her family heirlooIns
an old-fashioned scarf of needle point,
of hand embroidered lawn or crepe, or
even of fine India cashmere with deep
Oriental border, is distinctly fortunate.
OF the loose, light coats for afternoon
wear so much has been said that no
novelty is left to be noted but as the
season progresses there is a decided
movement toward settling coats,
and the Louis coats in f1owered silk or
short, close fitting coats of light cloth
or lace, modelled somewhat upon Louis
lines, are more and more in evidence.
They are rather a relief from the artis-
tic but ubiquitous loose coat, and worn
over sheer mouSSelines are exceedingly
effective.
There is no doubt that the close-fit-
place among the winter and autumn
models and already one finds early
models severely tailored and tight
fitting, with more seams than of old as
a concession to the straight front fig
ure. That straight front in connection
with the fitting coat promises to give
mediocre tailors many bad quarter
hours, and the only safety this fall will
lie in recourse to first-class tailor.
Later all will learn the trick, but the
straight front finds a friend in blouses,
stoles, ETC., and does not lend itself
readily to tailor lines.
The close-fltting tailor coat will be
made in all lengths. A knee length will
apparently be first favorite. but for
some figures this length is most unbe-
coming, and the wearer should know
and consult her individual needs.
There is generally accepted theory
that line half cutting the skirt length
marks the line of coat length possfbiI-
ity. Below that every fraction of an
inch detracts radically from the height
of the wearer. Above that each frac-
tion of an inch adds to the impression
of height in the wearer. No short wom-
an should wear coat reaching below
that halfway line, unless the coat
reaches quite to the ground but this /
summer host of women have cast the |
laws of esthetics and proportion aside
In pllnd following of popular fads.
Capes for Coats.
Capes appear on some of the tight |
fitting coats but more often there are
mannish turnover collars, Louis revers
or military standing collars. A few ex-
ceedingly smart coats of distinctly
military tone, with standing braided
collar. gold buttons and silk frogs or
cordeliere are shown, and it is possible
that the military idea will be conspic-
uoas in autumn modes.
Such runor has f1oated over from
Paris, but is not authoritative as yet,
The fact remains that these military
coats look very knowing, and some of |
them have the genuine military capes, |
lined in bright color, and, in dark blue |
or dull blue. lined with gay color and |
frightened with gold buttons and a |
touch of gold in the braiding, the coat |
Is most attractive for young girls
rough and ready autumn wear.
Apropos of things military, many
American girls have of late brought |
home from European travel genuine
officers capes. The colorings of GER
tain italian and Austrian regiments
seem to have appealed most forcibly to
the feminine fancy, and the capes can,
with little diplomacy, be bought or
ordered. They make effective summer
o1n n1ycs f1,x.'