Watertown republican. [volume] (Watertown, Wis.) 1860-1906, 1903-05-20

Some Of the shapes In Hats That Are
just Now Filling the Fem
mime Fancy.

Among the many hat shapes in
vogue none have the brim turned up
at the back, says the Millinery Trade
Review. If the brim is wide behind,
1T is turned down over the nape of
the neck, but maryland perhaps the
majority-are cut off very short at
the back, where they will often be
trimmed with fall of lace, pend
ant feather OF dropping sprays of
flowers. 1t is generally considered
that more youthful appearance is
attained when such additions are
omitted-a large knot of hair filing
in the vacant space perfectly. How
ever, this is merely a matter of per-
sonal appreciation; milliners are
rather prone to favor hats trimmed
at the sback-perhaps because they
show off better in the hand. Hats
turned up at the side frequently have
this portion of the brim wider; others
that jut forward or that turn down
or up over the brow have the brim
much wider in front
Most of the newest toques are
large with the turban effect exagger-
ated in front and at the sides and a
decided slope at the back Many are
made with the top-it can hardly be
called a crown-on level with the
upper edge of the brim. Others con-
structed out of a round or heart
shaped plateau are rolled up high
at the front and at the sides. Be-
sides these, there is a variety of fan
ciful shapes that are dubbed indif-
ferently toques Or small hats.
Among these may be noted some
new I.ouiv XIV. tricornes,- some built
up of plateau of which are caught
up in three places by ribbons; others
with regular blocked crown and
the bfim slanting upwards from it
at an acute angle.
Datty little tricorne of the lat
ter shape is made of closely-plaited
champagne-colored straw trimmed
around the edge of the brim and
around the crown with three rows Of
green straw closely plated. In the
lndent on the left side are two mar
low pointed black corteaux tipped
with green, fastened by a rosette
OF the green braids. There is a great
fancy for this sort of quill, just now;
they are called ''coufeaux diable" be-
cause somewhat similar to those
which decorate the cap of Mephis-
topheles.
The highly ornamental character of
much of the straw provided is a trim
ming in itself
For a big turban toque made of
wide, dark blue, fancy straw braids,
OVERHEAD with thick piping of plain
straw, the only trimming is a pair
of the aforementioned ''couteaux
diable," also dark blue and shaded
into gray and dipped with scarlet,
placed rather forward against the
brim. Some medium-sized hats are
built up of two plateaux of heart
shape, made of wide fancy chip
bralds, to one side of which hang
straw balls-tassels, almost exactly
resembling hops. There is an inter-
val of two inches between each tas-
sci. This arrangement is most eff
fect1ve in such colors as pale nut
brown, light gray-blues and blue
greens, further trimmed with a large
bow of satin to match, put on at the
back. Small braids and plated and
geuffred braids made up in variety
of ways; the first, arranged so that
each row of braids lap over the
other. is very ornamental.
The others may also only be sewn
down at one side when lace edging
or plating of velvet ribbon is sewn
on the overlapping edge.
Red or foliage-green plated braids
edged with black lace make up
charming hat and toque shapes, as
likewise white or ight-colored braids
edged with cream lace. A good deal
is done by combining braids of sever
al shades.