Durango semi-weekly herald., 1903-02-16

have her gowns shipped direct from
Paris or London prefers to wait un-
I'll fashions are really settled before
selecting her spring frocks and hats.
So that January is a good time to
put on the bargain counter last year S
styles in underwear. and while the
sales are going on this years stock
is being completed for exhibition in
February. After this there is sue
cession of pretty things for spring and
summer.
The woman who follows closely the
various changes wrought in the mat
ter of dress discovers this year that
a line of demarkation has been drawn.
as 1t were. between the tea jacket and
the coffee jacket. Hitherto one gar
ment has served two purposes with
excellent results, enhanced by beau
tiful soft silk or cashmir petticoat, but
all this is changed. Strictly speaking
there is no such thing as coffee
jacket The short empire sacque in
which milady sips her morning drink
Is termed a coffee coat and enjoys
none of the stateliness which charac-
terizes the tea jacket The one is
made of pelisse net or chiffon. or it
may be a cutaway loose coat of silk
or sloth; the other is a regal affair in
Louis quartorze brocade or other
stately material trimmed with lace
and eXqusitely embroidered.
While the coffee coat and tea jack
ct are far too distinctive to be cassed
with lingerie, they are so intimately
associated with undergarments that
they are placed on sale with them in
all the shops.
Invariably one finds them next to
the counters on which are displayed
petticoats, which, by the way, are as
close-fitting as the most approved
habit skirt. Satin is used almost as
much as taffeta for many of the hand
soonest skirts and the full flare at the
bottom is obtained by the use of ruff
lles and flounces in an abandon of ma
terial and work that is positively
dazzling.
| Corset covers show many ideas that
are delightful and new. There is less
of them than ever, but the little that
remains is the daintiest mass of linen
and lace conceivable. The chief Idea
of the truly smart cover is to take up
as little room as possible except
where devices are employed to give 1t
a bouffant effect The tight-fitting
corset-cover is the rule, though thin
women vary the outline by having
some fulness at the front Among
the expensive designs It is possible to
| find models in the making of which
not piece of plain material has been
used. These are formed of alternate
! bands of embroidery and lace inser-
ton. cut square-neck and having only
one seam. The tops are finished with
ruflles of lace through which are run
| delicate wash ribbons.
The idea of having flounces of null
buttoned to petticoats of taffeta or
satin is not new, but this year this
has been elaborated upon by the addi-
tion of handsomer buttons. In many
| instances these buttons are of silk,
and add much to the beauty of the
petticoat, while increasing the cost
but slightly. They are not to be re-
moved with the flounce when the lat
| teI Is dItuoh6h IT 10 h'''o7
| sary to have them cleaned once or
twice during the season.
The most elaborate thing yet seen
| in the line of petticoat serves also
as a lining for pale blue mousseline
gown, and is itself built upon fonn-
dation of silk. 1t is formed of alter.
nate strips of pale blue satin ribbon
| ,niI IN honyy
white lace. 1t fits closely around the
hips and beneath the glaring fiounce
and the silk foundation, there is
graduated ruffle of sun-plaited chiffon
with a lace design inserted into the
lower edge.
| Motifs of lace dotted over with
chiffon laces are very effective set in
above the hem of the dress skirt and
forming n bertha around the should
ers. with a scarf of chiffon carried
around underneath and tied in front.
The dainty lawns through which
much of this pretty lingerie will be
seen are being made into dresses OF
indescrbable simplicity and charm
In most instances they are trimmed
with tucks and rufiles. One especial
ly chic model has triple skirt, which
Is formed in three fiounces. the top
one in vertical tucks over the hips
and all the edges finished with band
of lace embroidered in pink medal
lions and edged with narrow black
velvet ribbon.
The blouse shows a pretty tucked
yoke finished with a deep bertha cape
of lace and lawn. while the dropping
baggy sleeves with close wrlstband
also have frills of lace.
Each week brings new hat designs
Flower effects are to be worn more
than ever.
Violets, which have been worn very
little all winter, have come back 10
enjoy their share of favor as a spring
flower.
Gloves with spun. lace tops and
tops embroidered in scallops are new
and pretty for spring wear. Many
pairs show delicate open designs run
ming around the arm as far as the
wrist.
Probably the newest addition to
thin materials is silk suise. This Is