The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1903-10-31

hands OF the shaver, being relieved Of
his Superluous hair. Meanwhile the
horses and myself stood quietly
watching the proceedings. After the
PERFORMANCES we took the opportunity
of the halt to eat something, and, as
the barber had bread to spare, we
shared with him, that which he had
never known the delights of before;
some sardines. For this" discovery
he was SO grateful that he generously
offered us a pull at his gallon gourd
of native wine, which was hitched on
to the pommel of his saddle, and
which we had taken for water. We
tried to trade for that gourd, but even
a full box Of sardines and a cake of
tobacco would not tempt him to part
with the precious liquor.
We had expected to hear the sound
of fighting, but as yet the gruesOme
noise of cannon did not mar the beau
ty of the sylvan quietude of the lovely
country we were now traversing. The
only sound that broke the noonttde
slesta, which all nature seemed to en-
joy, was caused by the numerous bab-
bling brooks, purling down from the
foot hills Of the smaller Balkans. Our
track now converged on to the main
road, and we were soon in the atmO-
sphere Of dust which always hangs
round the TANKS and rear Of a march
ing army. The Russian cavalry were
halted at the mouth Of the Zavada
gorge, thru the trough Of which flows
the river Yantra, a picturesque canyon
the rocky, precipitous tanks of which
were covered with vigorous foliage.
Growing on either side the apparent
ly inaccessible heights were two
quaint and ancient monasteries, their
sunny walls flashing out Of the dark
green scrub. At first the gorge ap-
peared to open into the weird circle of
q gloomy crater, and the road we
were traversing might be winding
over its central cone; while the rapid
river in the heart Of the gorge, but
for its cool murmur, might be the
flow of boiling lava.
A few shots now echoed thru the
hills, and then the mounted men hur-
riedly pushed forward up the tortuous
throat Of the pass, over the cone on
the top Of which was perched Tirnova
"a conglomeration of rocks, crags,
houses, and shanties all huddled to-
gether. intersected by sinuous courts
and alleys, which here and there cut
into the main thorofare, that switched
back till 1t delved down into the
strath which Is thanked by the higher
Balkans.
The Turks practically made no
stand at the old Bulgarian capital.
They had hurriedly retired on the
sight of the Russian advance guard,
who had. fastened the Moslem rear
with a rifle volley. The enemy had
reiterated in hot haste towards the
Shipka. 20 e
In their joy the inhabitants Of this
town also had hastily decorated their
houses with bunting, and had come
out en- masse to welcome US. The
streets were full Of women, girls, and
children, and the windows Of the
quaint, overhanging walls Of the
houses were teeming with pretty
faces. It was with difficulty that we
advanced, for the women and young
girls chung round out horses, decorat-
ing their brides with flowers, and
thrusting Aposies into our laps. Many
mothers held their young ones up to
us to be kissed: others would press
their lips against our boots, and not
reluctance when the stalwart Co.'S
sacks lifted them. into their saddles
and heartily embraced them. 2. -
Arriving at the little market place,
where but a few hours before the
Turks had arranged to execute some
OF the prominent citizens, the JOY and
excitement of the people at our arri-
val was expressed with such fervor
that Forbes and found some trouble
in disinounting. When we at last
succeeded we were carried off our feet
by tho mad enthusiasm Of the crowd
Dusty. hot and weary, with difficult
ty we held on to our horses, hustled
on all sides, by the excited people.
Presently pretty, dark eyed girl
plucked at Forbes tunic and as he
turned towards tho wench, a. familiar
voice cried: Couldn't get near you,