The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-10-25

Ieh mat women woulu nave nOaSS ~
them.
Gradually. however. through the allow
introduction Of Restoration, 1890 ano |
Second Empire modes. women have been |
brought 70 the point q capitulation. A
more general use Of silk b the next logi1l
step In fashions march. and the French
drsssrnakers are turning out meby siik
and velvet frocks for street wear. reception
wear, carriage wear evening wear.
Cloth Ii still very fashionable, but Il does
not reign supreme, and the well dressed
woman will, this winter. walk In silk attire
where never before would she have dre0med
OF wearing q silk frock. Even the quaint
silk and fur combinations Of the 1882 period
are reappearing, and while the efYaastA
seem odd. one must admit that they are
charming.
There liz, for example, an imported model.
for street wear, in Parma violet tadeta--the
| soft. heavy, lustreless tanreta, which 10
| one Of the manufacturers triumphs. The
full. straight skirt Ia trimmed at the bottom
| with two bands Of errnine and the little
pelerine OF silk is edged with fur and has
shaped fur epaulettes.
A high silk corselet meets the pelerine.
lho yoho oho oooP euho e'o Va S-~
lace.
Another costume similar to this ID In
changeable light blue taffeta, trimmed In
chinchilla. Other silk street gowns are
trimmed In cloth. and for these the shot
silks, with cloth trimming In one Of the
shades In the silk. are considered particu-
larly Snar.
Velvet always lends itself readily to fur
trimmings, and, while fur trimmed strest
| costumes OF velvet will not have the quaint
novelty OF the silk frocks. they will he very
handsome and Tremendously modish.
The chiffon velvet L. q boon TO dress-
makers. and Is 80 easily manipulated that
II lessens greatly the difficulty Of making
| velvet frocks. Az it does not crush and
rumple 20 disast rously a. the old time silk
velvet II IL q comfort to the wearer as well
70 to tho maker.
The fancy velvots are legion, and for
commoner wear velvsteen and corduroy
will be very fashionable. Both Of these
mat erials have been improved in quality
until they bear little resemblance to the
earlier goods Of the same nane. and vel
vste can frock may be made genuine thing
Of beauty and Of fashion.
/ EItnlno, WlnlVeT, WuUo CdJdCdi, nole-
skin. mink, Persian lamb and beaver are all
pressed into service for the trimming OF
these silk street frocks, and il the mode IL
accept ed afternoon social functions, matt
pSes, restaurant lunoheons, DC. will show
an entirely novel kind Of costume this
winter The imitation fur trimmings are
also used, and although limitations are
usually objectionable. those Of this season
are exceedingly clever.
Mnsquash, dressed and colored to mole.
skin color, is almost as effective as mole.
skin itself, and more durable, and the imi.
tai ions of srmine are remarkably good
Imitation white caracal and black caraca
are hand embroidered and sold for band
trimming. Occasionally real furs are
treated in the same way, but this is done
only to order, and the trimming is. OF
course, very expensive.
Bear cloth. very long. straight haired
zbelipe, is liked for trimming and for
whole coats, boleros. DC. A curly. long
haired ziLeline, taking beautiful sheen
and coloring, is used in the same way.
Innumerable braids, gallons. motifs, pen
dants, frtnges, laces and bands are pro-
yided for trimmings and there seems to
| DC To TcuCJlCH 40 ySL HUN S"dyMk
and pendent idea. Fringes Of all sorts are
seen in the shops: but. as yet, are being taken
up slowly here, in spite OF Paris approval
Jet and palette fringes are perhaps ac-
copied more enthusiastically than any
others, and are much used with good effect
; upon the all black, or black and whte frocks
One of the useful maybe gowns among
the models sketched here is carried out in
black tulle over white silk foundation
and white chiffon Yelling. The full skirt
is trimmed with inset openwork. black
palette motifs In crescent shape, from the
lower curving edges Of which hangs a line
; of glittering palette fringe. Correspond
: Ing motifs are set around the shoulders OF
the bodice, below deep white lace yoke
with the points touching, so that the line
y unbrokon.
Another black and white frock sketchec
here Is in the ever practical black chiffor
, | over white chiffon, which always forms 6
!, charming dinner gown for an elderly woman
and may be fashioned into most salts
factory all around frock for younger per
son This one model has inset white lao,
upon its skirt and deep lace berthe, while
the yoke and the voluminous plated sleeve
are OF white chiffon.
:. A yoke dinner frock that may be worI
, either docollete or high Is a useful posses
, sion, and this season the h Apply result i
achieved In some OF the new models NOR
4 easily than by the usual guimpe method.
4 yoke and collar closely fitting throa
, and shoulders is finished around the bottom
p with deep berthe and worn over instea'
of under the decollete bodice This doe
. away with the disjointed effect so oite
visible where the bodice 10 worn over
\ separate guimpe, and does not advertis
the yoke as makeshift.
And, while combination gowns are unde
, discussion, mention should be made Of Ger
a tain complete costumes which. while thei
: initial expense Is great cover 80 many need
that they may in the end be econ omica
One skirt sutices for the costume but
= Is In the upper part OF the frook that tn
transformations occur.
/. Say for example that the skirt is in mauv
y broadcloth With trimming Of dyed mauy
=. lace and deeper mauvs chiffon velvet
q There may be bodice Of the velvet trimme
/. in cloth and lace, or Of cloth trimmed /
Z. velvet and lace.
. For housa wear when such bodice WOul