New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1903-12-13

Mrs. Earle offers in these handsome volumes
he pleasant results of infinitely painstakng
research among the relics and records of our
s-st two hundred years. The garrets Of ancient
mansions. the little old hair trunks of faraway
generations. have yielded their treasures of
--eer garments and fantastic headgear; the
5=scendauts Of provincial magnates have IN
aided for her inspection the lowered satin
reddirs gowns Of their ancestresSes, and, best
# all she has collected an enyiable store of re-
--oluctl5us II over five hundred early por-
-sfts Of Americans. Some Of these, it must
Is admitted ara grotesquely inadequate as por-
nature. but III The matter Of characteristic
costume the poorest Of them serves its pur-
bose OF al these things she has made ad-
-sralIe use IL text and iIlustration-and in deal
-- with old time furbelows she has dwelt per-
E1-ce Oh the social life Of their period, on habits
Ind customs and ideas as quaint as the gar
larts she pictures
The popular impression that the early Puritan
fzttlars were as severe in their dress as In
thair laws the author makes haste to correct
Tie Sad color so often mentioned was sad IN
kotLiug but name. II was warm brown or
kuszet. and red waistcoats and Innings and
Splendid long hooded cloaks Of rich scarlet
koth lent richer cheer TO the brown One Of
y
i the great cloak Of this kind worn by Judge
turueu, who presided with Sewau and Slough
Ea al the Salem trials. Even in the first
rears," says Mrs. Earle the settlers paid close
attention to their attire. to its richness its
Ae-auce its modishness, and watched mar
owIy also, the attire OF their neighbors. not
My from distinct liking for dress, but from
careful regard Of social distinctions and from
regard for the prophecies and relations Of life
Mere were sturdy diyines who preached against
xtrayagaut dress but the laity and even other
lyirss as sturdy in theology continued TO keep
verything handsome about them. There were
primal statutes in regard to the shape and size
{ garments but it is TO be doubted if the
Puritan dame paid much attention to these in
gnctious Of her rulers, unless she happened TO
.e q as tirid a temperament as was the lat
er day New England woman Of whom the au-
lhor tells Us:
knew a deacon's wife in Worcester some
Fee~s ago who asked for a new pair OF Indla
rubber OgershCes, and in piOuS response her
tugaI partner SLAPPED open the great Bible at
ts fav0rite third chapter OF the lamenting and
shreateLllg prophet aud rOared out 10 ms poor
ltue wife, sitting ueeEy before him in calico
EoTn and checked apron, the lesson OF the
faughty daughters Of Zion walking with
fr-tched forth necks and tinkling feet; Of their
chains and bracelets and muftlers; their bon
PES and rings and rich jewels; their NANTES
E11 wimples and cTisping pins their fair hoods
F1a yeilS-Oh. how she must have longed for
T. Oriental husband!
some Of the offenders against the early
Eguptuory laws Of New England were brought
mo court and fined Hannah Lyman, Of
/ Northampton, Mrs. Earle reminds Us, was
Ialel 10 account for her beautiful silk hood,
md retell51sIy wore the hood before her
Judges, WLereupon she was rebuked for wear
--g SIX In a EIounting manner, in an offensive
pay not only before but when she stood
Es-1ted, Not only in Ordinary, but in extraordi'
10y tines" She and her thirty-six girl friends,
bought 70 court al the same time for similar
f'e-1ress. were promptly fined; but an attempt
70 start & persecution Of the same kind six
pears afterward ended il the Quashing Of the
t2-i-tmerts
Tie pretuly quaint and demure costumes In
Which divers modern artists cIothe the imagi-
ary Puritan girls Of their pictures are not
-'"a 70 the author, who has never iouho
-s-- IN any % the innUmerable English OF
'e" English portraits OF that time English
ie-ch and American women wore much the
ZIG KIND Of c,0thes-fashions came from Eu-
te then as they Go to-day. Even in the seven
'-.~h century Colonial women had the very
-lsI court fashions as quickly as sail couIo
--s UeEn- Whore TIE ancestresses OK the
~ American u 1903 most differed from their
--Aaalt In these matters was in their preser-
n ---1A q tLeir rich broadcloth cloaks and bro
--sI gowns descended from one generation OF
''oHaie "earers 10 another. The author has
@-e1 q certain Powered satin gown and
L " % mi 1gTH g1gf 81