Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-02-18

The turned-back cuff Is practically ohso-
lete In evening dress coats among the best
West End set-it Is regarded as producing
an overdressed effect and. for the same
reason. brafding the trousers is not so
much in favor as it used to be- The latter
are cut fairly snug over the calf, but with
sufficient freedom at the thigh TO avoid all
dragging when the wearer sits down-an of
which matters are quite as they should be-
l think notice a tendency to reduce the
depth OF the shirt opening in dress wais.-
coats. especially white ones: but the Jew
eled-button idea. in respect to the latter .is
not favored by the men whose -tasta is
likely to influence fashion most notably
The close fit at the waist which was a cou-
pie or months ago so frequent character
istic OF frock coats. is now revived ii even
Ing coats. though IN day coats the tendency
Is to make the waist q shade less tight to
the figure.
colors Coming Back.
At last black and white. and gray, so long
the dominant chromatic rulers of English
fashion seem to have died the death Even
with the frock coat colored ascots are be-
ing worn. They are of rich Spitalfields or
Macciesf1efd silks, not heavy In weight. and
In dark color (often green). whose rich
HesS ana dark tone are enhanced by the
skiilfui admixture of black But the color
note Is the dominant. even red Is seen. with
morning coats. knots and four-in- hands are
peing worn; with Jackets, small knots
DoWS are Stlu absolutely out of fashion.
Even the shopkeepers and the pundits os
the society papers seem at last to have
chanced, blindly, upon this year eld fact.
Jacket suits. with the neck opening
rather lower than has generally been fore
seen for this early season,are being made in
smooth-surfacedV brown mixtures with an
InconsplcuouS over-pattern of narrow dark
lines. forming large linear squares They
are worn. as morning coats are now worn
buttoned up. The rolr-corlar idea has worn
ltself out The eliminat ton Of the handker-
chlef pocket IL mean an outside breast
pockeo from every kind of coat and jacket
seems to be complete. and handkerchiefs
themselves are consequently palmer AMI
smaller, and lighter than ever, being usual
ly carried in the left sleeve This colloca-
tlon Is good for trade. The smaller me
handkerchief, the more easily Ii sims ont
ana gets lost. As small practical pointer
Tor those who wish to adopt this English
iashlon. let 1t be limited that IT, in putting
the handkerchief in the sleeve it be tucked
behind the small chain Joining the two
sides of the cuff links, it won't drop out.
MY readers must judge for. themselves
Wnether they will tell their clients this and
earn their gratitude or let them lose their
handkerchiefS and buy fresh ones There
is, however, the hopeful alternative that
america may be wise enough to turn down
ia snis ABSURD English practice, and go
having a pocket made for the handkerchief
IN the place proper and convenient for il
Knitted Gloves.
young university men a couple or three
years ago. of wearing white knitted gloves
In town on cold day. rather stirred the
imagination Of American observers. II
am right. you may be glad to know that
this fashion. obsolete for time, has been
trying to revive itself this winter But a
development from 1t, which has now to be
cnronlcled, Is yet more interesting I have
seen several pairs Of exactly similar gloves
a sill
looking on bleak day, and while the GUS
tom or wearing them seems still confined
to the young bloods of the 'varsities. these
bright color spots introduce Quite a note of
plcturesqueness into prosy Piccadilly. 9th
erwise. there Is nothing new in gloves A
dull-clgar brown Is the usual color for dog
skin gloves. Only men who are much be
hind the times, the presumable purchasers
or the huge puffy, once-over crayats which
some frantic shopkeepers of the semi-fash-
ionable districts are still trying by a Law
ism WINDOW display, to get rid of. wear yell
low chamols (Wash-leatherl gloves any
more The taste for gloves with ends Of
the tWo-button length. but only one button
seems to persist. and 1t is meet and right
that it should. Nothing wears gloves out
so much as buttoning them and to reduce
THIS wear to one-half Is meritorious.
A New Cloth
saw in a tailor's window of the 'pnpu-
lar class. the other day. cloth of a kind
that was new to me. 1t was described as
double-faced, and was intended for making
unlined overcoats. In passing don't know
what may be the supposititious purpose Of
an unlined overcoat.- If one needs an over
coat at all-other than summer water
proof. perhaps-it is presumably for
warmth. But this cloth was eminently
fitted for its use. The outer surface was
like smoothsh gray frieze the other side
had large check and line pattern OIL it,
like sporting jacket. or like the cloth lin
lngs often inserted in heavy top coats of
the winter Chesterfield kind.