Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-01-13
TITBITS FOR A KING
ELABORATE DISHES SET BEFORE
CARLOS IN PARIS.
Viands Prepared by Chefs in French
Capital for Ruler of Portugal
Culinary Rarities.
From the London Truth.

The King OF Portugal Wouiu nave liheu "
prolong his stay in this pays de la bonnie
cuisine. He carried away with him a store
of culinary impressions which 1t will be
pleasure to remember in Lisbon, where
cooking is a much neglected art and the
markets supply few viands worth the at
tention Of a distinguished gourmet The
great culinary treat of the king and queen
is the leg of Landes mutton roasted and
served a la Bretonne. or with mashed po-
tatoes done in the French way. The NUT
ton is sent to them by friends at Bordeaux
by sea and in refrigerator. Portuguese
mutton is lean and stringy, and only good
for broth or to be cooked in the Arab fash
ion with rice. King Carlos prefers Welsh
mutton to any other. l have not the slight
est doubt that If some aspiring Englishman
from time to time shipped choice legs OF
this kind to the palace of Belem he would
some day receive in token of appreciation
a patent of Portuguese nobility or at least
the red ribbon of Christ Of Portugal.
Boiled Salmon.
The Due de Chartres had King Carlos,
who is his nephew-in-law. down to his
place near Chantilly, and went carefully
over the menu which his chef drew up for
the lunch to which he had invited the royal
wanderer He suggested the substitution
pellier for filets de brochet a la Bourgui-
gnonne-a too plain allusion to the descent
of Carlos from Robert. son of Hughes Ca
pet, and Duke of Burgundy Of the first line.
The darne is slice of salmon boiled, to be
eaten cold in a court bouilon of white
wine and water favored with slices Of car
rots, onions and a small-very small-bunch
of chervil, parsley and taragon. The ac-
companying sauce is a mayonnaise made
green with the delicate garden herbs which
the French use in salad. The beurre Mont
pellier is fresh butter passed, with enough
of spinach to make it green, through a
sieve. To hide the livid color of a slice Of
boiled salmon this butter is spread evenly
over it. and sliced truffies and whites Of
eggs are used to ornament.
Roses on the Fish.
Some cooks also pin on with ornamental
silver skewers pink prawns or crevettes
roses and border the dish with crayf1sh
The rudy color of these decorative details
give value to the green of the beurre Mont
peIlier This dish. perhaps, would not be
good for sufferer from arthritis, but it is
one to be appreciated by a prince who Is
at once gourmet and gourmand, and who
comes from land on on ne mango pas
ben. The darne de Saumon Is said to have
been invented by the illustrious Care1ne.
AT luncheon in NJ Loubet's railway palace
car the king twice asked to be helped again
to a saute de poulets a la sauce Toulouse.
He and the president were on their way to
Compiegne to shoot when this repast took
place. After his third helping, Carlos, with
a look of supreme satisfaction, laughed,
and exclaimed: ''Je men suis bien regale.
II ny a gu en- France on on trouve de plats
aussi delicieux.' The president sent word
to his chef Of the fiattering attention paid
to the poulet saute a la sauce Toulouse by
his majesty the King of Portugal. who de-
gustait the dish conscientiously as
though he were the member of a culinary
jury at an exhibition.
Fried Chicken.
1t may be of interest to know how the
fowl saute, or lightly fried in butter in
copper stewpan, was dealt with by the
chef. When the frying part Of the opera
ton had ended. the cook withdrew the fowl
and added a strong clarified broth made
with hen and a knuckle of veal and al
lowed it to boil down. He next added
carefully peeled truf1es meant to be sliced
as garniture. cocks combe and mushrooms
that had been STEPPED In calculated water
These ingredients were Withdrawn as soon
as cooked. and the sauce further enriched
with the jelly roasted fowl give out when
left to cool. with four tablespoonfuls (the
proportion for each poleD Of Sauterne wine
Wine and jelly he added little by little, and
after a boil Of a few minutes strained and
SKINNED the sauce again, and then restored
to 1t the truffies. this time sliced, the cocks
combs. and SO on. Meanwhile the fowl had
simmered in bouillon supreme, or clear
chicken broth. from which it was finally
taken and allowed to drain. and with the
toulouse sauce poured over 1t, sent to ia
bic. English cooks have no idea what
trouble the French chef takes with his
sauces. The sauce. Verdier Of the now de-
funct MaiSon DOree used to say, is the
tombstone of the cooks artistic talent. I
do not think that health gains from lunch
ing on such luxurious food. and that a pou-
let Ia sauce Toulouse would be more
wholesome cooked by some petite bourgeoise
or Toulouse. like. say. Nine. Humbert mere
before her husband attained the proud emf
nence OF keeper of the seals and president
of the audit courts. The King Of Portugal
has extensive and splendidly stocked pre-
serves. Nine. Loubet who had been at
pains to ascertain his gastronomic taste in
structed the cook therefore to be sparing Of
game.