The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-05-30


ton of lace. and midway between it and
the yoke Is a second insertion. to which the
portions of the skirt are shirred. The back
breadths. forming the train. are laid in
small box plaits at the belt, and are inset
with lace at the seams. The bodice is the
fashionable simply-shaped blouse, closed at
the back. but Is made with deep pointed
unlined yoke of tucked chiffon. below which
IL is all lace over chiffon. The sleeves are
OF the crepe. full and SOFT with deep cuffs
and epaulets of lace.
Other gowns of the trousseaux for sum-
mer are somewhat more distinctive, and
mean a wider personal interest. inasmuch
as they are replete with suggestions. both
for those not yet entered upon the married
state and for those whose bridal day is
past. Much as we all love bride, she and
she alone can wear that all-important
gown, while her walking, visiting and din
ner costumes are not unlike those of every
day folk. except that they apt TO be
chosen with care, and 10 offer hints as 10
what Is latest and best. The June bride
is ordering travelling gowns that charm
ing and sensible In one. Yelling, light
weight canvas. Sicilian mohair and taffeta
are the materials preferred. Long coats
are not nearly so general as they promised
to be, and the greater number seen are
made with Etons or blouse Etons that are
collarless or finished with fiat stoles and
of being slaves to fashion, but now and
then we rise in our might and refuse to be
deprived of garments that have proved
blessing. This insistence on the jaunty
little short coats is case in point. De-
signers and importers have done their best
to kill them. Long coats of many sorts
have been shown and been sold. In their
place they are admirable, but nothing yet
found suits summer needs so perfectly as
the Elton in its various forms. and Etons
month but emphasize the general tendency.
A leading tailor and dressmaker said to me
today: 1T Is useless to night against it.
Women simply will not give UP what they
know to be becoming and satisfactory in
every way Our patrons are ordering the
Etons. and little else, for the suits designed
for travelling, walking and the Ike" The
trousseau costumes, therefore, are not
unique. but only point the way. Costumes
consisting of plated skirts and those little
coats are included in almost every trous-
seau, and. indeed. in every really COM
plete wardrobe. Skirts clear the ground.
Happily for both health and peace OF mind.
trailing skirts, dragged over dirty side
walks and dusty roads, in and out of trains
and boats. are no longer fashionable. The
bride OF the summer goes forth upon her
health and comfort combined with style.
AS rule, she orders waists OF soft silk or
chiffon in matching color to don at the
hotel dinner. but for the time spent en- route
she has shirtwaists of fine lingerie and the
like. Or. If she prefer. her gown is made
in shirtwaist style, and is OF the lovely
summer taffeta, and with ii she wears a
loose, coat to protect herself from dust.
Shepherds checks have great vogue for
these last, and are delight.
SHOULD SUGGEST YOUTHS.
Dinner, reception and evening gowns all
have their place and all must be considered.
AS has been said. those of summer should
mean certain characteristics of their own.
Fewer real decollete bodices are necessary.
More unlined Jokes are seen and materials
are, as rule. lighter and more filmy. The
brides gowns always should have a
youthful suggestion. Her estate of matron-
ly dignity has but just begun. Lovely
gowns for summer dances are made of
nets. chiffons, tulle. mousseline and lace.
These, as a rule. mean low necks, but
often with long or elbow sleeves of the
filmy material unlined. Accordion plait-
ings are smart and some charming gowns
of chiffon are so made, the skirts inset
with lace and the low bodices finished with
berthas. Shirrings, too. are many. A
really beautiful gown of pale sea-green
chiffon cloth is really a mass of shirrings
and shows little other trimming. White is
first In the list of favorites, but color, too,
Is seen. AS / have said so often. it is a
season Of much variety and of many things
Some charming evening gowns are of white
chiffon and are worn with sashes of the
lace and are draped over chiffon founda-
tons until they seem fit for the fairies
themselves. AS charmingly girlish an
tulle with tiny embroidered rings The
skirt IL simply gathered at the belt, but
finished with three rows of inlet cream
lace insertion and shows insertion over
the seams for two-thirds their length, the
ends terminating In points. The bodice is
the simple baby one, that always is so
pretty. with long, full sleeves that are
gathered into pointed cuffs of heavy lace.
Round the low neck is a bertha of this
came lace and at the waist a softly draped
belt of blush pink. Scarcely anything more
dainty could be devised, yet the material
is not of excessive cost and similar things
could be done with fabrics of still less
worth. There is tendency toward
Some of the latest importations are of soft
lowered silk, the entire skirt founced, but
those are little affected by the brides.
the Impression may pass away. but. for
the present, they suggest overmuch the
dignity Of the matron to be popular for the
trousseau.
SOME ELABORATE GOWNS.
Dinner gowns are charming. Summer is
apt to mean much hotel life and there is
growing feeling that actual decollete is out
of place. In its stead the lovely transpar-
ent Jokes are used. and with great sue
cess. A most effective gown Of cream silk
wolfe is made with a full-length front
panel, that is laid in two tucks at each
edge, and shirred sides and back that are
attached to a yoke Of lace. These are fin
ished with a graduated founce tucked at it's
lower and tuck-shirred at its upper edge
and are again tuck-shirred midway of their
length. The bodice is simply made, with a
deep corselet of corn-colored silk, and is
quite low with tuck-shirrings at its upper
edge that are continued on the sleeves
giving the broad line so much liked, and
the fullness of which forms a bertha that
falls in soft frill and full elbow sleeves
over the neck is a yoke of cream lace that
falls over the upper arms to the edge of the
shirrings and over the shoulders are straps
of velvet that match the corSelet in color
OF trimming there is literally none, but the
shirrings are exquisite and the whole eff
feet is one to be remembered. Chameleon
effects too, are liked, and some lovely
things are produced by draping one color
over another. Pale gray over yellow is ex-
qusite; pale blue over palest pink gives
a decidedly Frenchy effect, and similar
combinations might be suggested by the
score.
Afternoon gowns and visiting gowns are
of many sorts, but l have space only for
toilet as any seen is of soft gray wolfe
combined with lowered silk showing shad-
owy roses in a deeper shade on a pale gray
ground. The skirt is made with deep
tiounce on which are three wide bands of
gray silk attached by means of fancy
stitches Above the flounce on the skirt
are two groups of two each of narrow
bands of the same The bodice is of soft
gray chiffon tucked to form a yoke and
is worn with a bolero of wolfe, with wide
bands OF the silk on all edges and full ell
the design outlined with French knots in
Delft blue, hang from the belt over the
long postillion, and straps of the same
trim the shoulders and fall over the sIaa,rao