davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Watertown republican. [volume] (Watertown, Wis.) 1860-1906, 1903-10-28
Made Brittle by Coiu.

Steel plates rendered brittle by cold
were described before the Hamburg Ger
many Society of Engineers by l.. Ben-
jamin. 4 Steel lighter-vessel which had
seen ten or twelve years of service was
towed with a feet of barges through a
thick field of ice in very cold weather.
The lighter was battered SO severely that
it had to be locked, number of broken
plates replaced and others Strengthened.
In this work it was found that many of
the plates were extremely brittle and
showed indications of strong internal
stresses, so that when struck sharp
blow with the hammer several of the
plates cracked. Test pieces cut from the
iron showed hard material having a
very coarse granular fracture; the ma
terial was SO poor. in fact that it could
not have been punched and riveted in that
condition. AS the plates had been III
service for many years and had become
much battered and denied during that
time without any cracks appearing, it
was thought that the dangerous condi-
ton Of the metal was produced by the
shocks and vibration experienced during
extreme notwithstanding News.
Watertown republican. [volume] (Watertown, Wis.) 1860-1906, 1903-10-28
The Health of College Girls.

From a study of college girls and
school children in the University of Cali
fornia, Mary e. B. Ritter California
State Journal of Medicine, August holds
that the majority improve in health dur.
ing the four years of college life, that
is those who take their studies serious
ly and nationally. A college education
does not necessarily injure the health OF
women. The seeds of subsequent ill.
health are sOwn at an earlier age, and
are not the consequences of study. The
causes of ill-healtn are mainly traceable
to unhygienic living, or the sequence OF
infectious disease. In a large proper
ton of women students college life, with
the mental stimulus of a purpose, i'm.
proves their health and fits them to be.
come better disciplined and more intel
ligent mothers. More careful observa
ton on the part of physicians and in
structions to parents would, to a large
measure, improve the existing unsatis
factory condtions.-The Sanitarian.
Watertown republican. [volume] (Watertown, Wis.) 1860-1906, 1903-10-28
The Spintha-iscope's Cope.

The spinthariscope is an instrument in
vented by Sir William Crookes for the
purpose of studying the wonderful redio-
active properties of radium. The instru-
ment is composed of a very high power
system of. lenses set in one end of a
tube about ~ inches long. At the other
end of the tube speck of radium is car
ried on Il moving iron finger. The finger
can be shifted across a fourescent screen
and placed at one end of the tube oppo-
site the magnifying lenses at the other
end. AS the fourescent screen and the
radium are in close proximity the screen
is subjected to a complete bombardment
When the minute fragments of a radium
strike if they become visible, producing
an effect similar to the sheen of moon
light on ripping water. Although the
is microscopic, still X-ray photographs
have been made with even so small q
speck as this.-Scientifc American.
Watertown republican. [volume] (Watertown, Wis.) 1860-1906, 1903-10-28

day. [ was lying stretched upon the
grass, wrapped in many shawls, and, had
it not been for the pale, anxious faces
that were bending over me, / should have
thought | was just waking from fright
full dream. AS | tried to move, a sharp
pain ran through my arm, and [ tainted
again. 1T was not until several days
later that / learned the ending Of my
tragic adventure. After calling and seek
ing vainly for me for half an hour my
companions FASTENED to warn the people
at the house and in the village. They
came back armed with lanterns, picks,
ropes and ladders.
pierre held to it obstinately that
must be somewhere near the stairway up
which he had seen me run, but although
they hunted up and down and forward
and back. they could not find q trace of
me. They thought my poor fance would
go crazy, and when the dawn began to
break they deserted that part Of the
ruins to hunt among the cellars. should
have been dead now, lost in the thickness
OF that great wall, if Pierre, moved by
loves miraculous intuitions, had not
thought to examine the wall from the
outside. For the hundredth time lie was
looking mournfully up at the implacable
stones, when he saw a cat, emerging
from some crack or crevice, disappear be-
low in disordered leaps and jumps. |
never knew whether this animal, which
had frightened me so, had made its home
in that little chamber or had fallen there
at the same time / did
pierre called the people, and ladders
were brought, and he himself climbed up
and discovered, beneath the arch. skill
fully hidden in the stonework, little
window. They soon made it larger. and
it was through this that they gained an
entrance to the tiny secret chamber
where | lay senseless and hurt. AS for
trying to find the joint and pivot of the
door of the secret trap whose mechanism
/ had by chance stumbled upon, it was
impossible. The memory of that ter
rible night remained too confused and
troubled for me to have any clear idea
of what [ did.
"My arm was not long in healing, and,
when, three months later, | laid it upon
Pierre's as we walked to the altar, it
had ceased to trouble me at all. But in
spite of the fact that they FASTENED my
happiness, | can feel nothing but horror
for RUNS of any kind, and old castles in
particular" Translated by Susan H.
Taber for the Washington Post.
Watertown republican. [volume] (Watertown, Wis.) 1860-1906, 1903-10-28
The Men of Chicago.

Of all the larger cities of the coun-
try Chicago has the largest proportion Of
males in its total population. During the
last twenty years Chicago has avera ged
So per cent. more males than females.
while New York has averaged 2.S per
cent. more females than males, Phila-
delphia 81 per cent, and Boston Z per
cent more females than males.
Watertown republican. [volume] (Watertown, Wis.) 1860-1906, 1903-10-28
Fiscal.

a small girl recently entered a grocers
shop in the east end and said to the shop
keeper in a shrill, piping voice: please,
sir, want half pound of butter, an a
pennyworth of cheese, an muvver says
She will send a shilling when father
comes home" "Ail right" said the shop
man, who was used to this sort of thing.
But" continued the child, ''muyyer
wants the change now, because she's got
to put a penny in the gas Lon
don Men and Women.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1903-06-14

good, and IS so markedly different from
the rufied dchus as TO make the fashion
an exceedingly smart one.
The taffeta and chiffon wraps are the
novelties of the season, quite unlike any
wraps of last year and possessing a
most delightful individuality. On the
picturesque order, of course, put then
that is in keeping with the fashions OF
the year, and, oddly enough, these can
be worn with gowns of any kind. Pink
ed ruchings and ruffies trim the taffeta
wraps. which at first glance seem to be
merely straight wide scarfs, and which
in most instances are shaped so that
they fare wider in the middle than at
the end IN black, white. or green. old
fashioned coIors, they are made, but all
are on the same scarf order.
In chiffon they are much more elabor-
ate, with rows of shirrings and puffings
and bordered with lace ruffies aver chif-
fon. White is the smart color for the
chiffon, but there are some made of pale
blue or pink that are most attractive
and trimmed with yellowish lace In
mara bout or ostrich feathers and in
narrow rufTles of lace edged, but sewea
on q broad. fat scarf. are many most
becoming wraps. The feather ones in
white or all the lighter shades OF color
have quite a little warmth about them
and yet are far lighter and cooler than
the ostrich or cock feather boas.
One of the very latest fancies is the
lace scarf made on the same model as
the fat marabout or ostrich feather
scarf. but composed of myriads of mar
row lace ruffies put so close together
that they overlap each other and sewed
on to a foundation of net. The lace need
not be real. but if imitation be used 1t
must be of the finest quality of an open
pattern and decidedly cream in color
Another style of lace wrap is the long
lace scarf, not shaped. but made of one
width and long. This is of necessity
costly. as exquisitely fine old lace shows
to the greatest advantage, and lace low
ers have greeted the fashion with en-
thusiasm, finding at last an opportunity
to wear real lace, so that its beauty
will show to the best possible advan-
tage.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1903-06-14

glance it seems perfectly inappropriate
to so short a coat. Fanciful in the ex-
treme are many of these effects, and
yet. as a rule. they are becoming, for
they give additional breadth to the
shoulders, and, consequently. the waist
looks smaller. But it is as a rule much
more becoming when in connection with
these long shoulder effects there are
fat, long pieces in front of the trim
nings or else of the same material,
for the long lines in front prevent the
figure being cut, as it were. and made
to look too short and stout. The long
shoulder capes. with the Fat stole
pieces in front, are one of the vagaries
of this fashion. and a last years jacket
is often made possible by trimming
it with this style of cape and stole
combined.
Summer weather in any climate at
the present time is so changeable that
there are many days when coat or
wrap is necessary, and consequently the
smartest gowns are now made with 4
jacket to match the skirt. With these
there may or may not be a waist to
match, for although fashion has decreed
very positively that waist to match
the skirt IS necessary in every smart
costume with light cloths or any ma
terial at all heavy, a waist OF the ma
terial is very warm and too heavy to
be comfortable, so that the thin waists
are as fashionable as ever. but with
them are worn a short jacket or wrap
to match the skirt.
Fichus are again fashionable and the
fichu effect is often given in quite heavy
materials as well as in the thin wash
fabrics When this fashion is becoming
it is exceedingly so. and there is some
thing very soft and graceful about a
fichu that is properly adjusted with not
too much fuilness around the shoulders
and with the long ends in front tied in
soft knot and then allowed to fall to
the hem of the skirt, or. IL more becom-
ing, part way down Lace or embroid-
cred rufles are necessary If thin ma
teriais are used, but on many OF the
heavier coats there is nothing at all ex-
spting the fiat bands. and only the
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1903-06-14

widow. or anyone IN deep grief. attired
in black crepe seen with brown dog.
Is considered TO be appropriately turn
ed out. The dog must be black, or, K
white be worn. be white. However, white
ccgs with black bows are possible, and
speaking seriously again, this carrying
| cut Of the color scheme Is most effec-
tive The wearing of black gloves with
g white gown is bad style. They must
be white. Nor should coIored jewels
be allowed Diamonds are permissible
even in deepest woe. and pearls are also
grsdations of it. Even the chate1aine
watch must be black Some of the
sElartest costumes have been entirely
ruined by the wearing of a chatelaine
atch of violet enamel.
Jet is now so fashionable that it has
felped immensely in making variety
as TO watch chains, Iorgnette chains.
etc, but only dull jet should be worn
with the first mourning The dull jet
spangied gowns Of Grape gowns trimmed
V, II jet for dinner wear are about the
most becoming that a woman puts
on Now that white jet has been
Introduced, the white crepe dinner gown,
trimmed with white jet. is charmingly
effective. and 1T seems great blessing
that it should have been allowed 10 in
d:cate mourning, for at first glance, to
the uninitfated, il would hardly do so.
other innovations that are becoming
are the clear mesh and fancy face wells
Time was. and not so long ago. that
even with a transparent face veil il was
considered requisite TO have it of some
unbecoming mesh that would darker the
skin. Now whatever mesh is Becoming
is allowed. and some women wear dotted
wells. These last. however. have not re-
&C ived the sanction of smart people, aud
the fashion may be said to be On trial
The only black allowed with white
mourning is the black stockings. This.
II is conteuded. is permitted on account
of the fact that it makes the ankles
look so much smaller. but white stock
jngs with black are OF course. not 10 b.
Thought of, any more than the white
gloves with a black gown, or vice versa.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1903-06-14
Costly Tao for Utnp partstan fans.

into the least possible compass and are
copied for use today.
In the morning, says an authority on
fan wearing 1t is preferable to use a
tiny straw, paper, vellum or lacquer
fan, and its chain should be gun metal
set with semi-precious colored stones Or
gay beads.
In the Afternoon small fans of black
taffeta, mounted on tortoise-sheN and
powdered with pinhead spaagies. arc
modish. The dazzling spangles, some
times of true gold. are sunk into the
surface of the tortoise shell and show
the monogram of the owner. 1t is
easy to pay from $50 to three times that
amount for one OF these fans.
For evening dress minute fans OF
studied elegance and richness are be-
ing produced Carved ivory and pearl
overlaid with gold leaf patterns and
studded with jewels, are the materials
used In their composition. When spread
to their fullest extent these fans do
not cover the open fingers of 'goman's
hand. In Paris they are called Little
Trianon fans, and American women,
who purchase them, wear them strung
on chains of oriental pearls or strings
of diamonds so big that the European 4
eyes grow big at sight Of them.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1903-06-14

all white or all black would denote
loss.
In the matter of headgear there is
more change than anything else. The
close-ftting Marie Stuart bonnet, over
which was pinned crepe or sewing silk
or nuns yelling veil, as the case might
be or the means allowed, with only a
tiny ruching OF white denoting the wild
owls cap. or all black. II mourning for
the relative. was to some women i'm
mensely becoming. but to the majority
was most trying. Now no woman need
dread putting on mourning; that is, so
far as her personal appearance is con-
cerned, for 1t would take an ugly woman,
indeed, to look plain with the pretty
hats that are worn, over which the long
veil is thrown back, covering the hat
and falling to the hem OF the skirt. II in
Intense sorrow. This veil can be thrown
forward over the face If desired, but. as
a rule, is arranged to form weepers at
the back. while the face veil OF sheer
net edged with crepe is all sufficient. At
first the veil is very long, and is grad
ually shortened according to how be-
coming it is, until finally 1t is merely a
large face veil with streamers, but It is
very smart and frames the face most
hecomingly.
When all white is worn hats with
white crepe wells follow out this same
fancy When the fat hat is not becom-
ing bows or loops of crepe are allowed,
ard, strangely incongruous though it
may seem, mourning flowers are put on
crepe bonnets and hats, or on crepe
Eats. for, to speak correctly. there are
no mourning bonnets. and even when
the close fitting ones are worn they
ave so enlivened with bows and loops
sIi cockades of ribbon that there IS
l:ttle of the old-fashioned bonnet about
ttem.
To carry out in complete detail a
mourning costume. considerable atten-
tion must be paid to such matters as
Stoves, shoes, ornaments, and, rot
81 eaking with any sarcasm. dogs. A
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1903-06-14

foI.is are used to give the soft appear
ance that is becoming. Great care
must be taken that fichu is not tied
too high on the front of the waist. That
gives a very ugly line, except for an
exceedingly thin gown, where it is de-
sired TO add as much breadth as posi-
BILE to the shoulders and bust Then
the ends should be tied in bow in
front or in one loop.
A charming fad is the using Of light
cloths or silks for fichus and trimming
them with broad bands of entre-deux
either in the heavy or the light lace.
The effect is a little severe and always
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1903-06-14

CoME tailor-made girls whose ply
siaue is small, pride themselves
on their patronage of real haber-
dashers where they purchase boys y
gloves and boys pajamas. Many
Young women who fancy extremes OF
style buy handkerchiefs and ties from
mems furnishing shops, and not few
have their blouses made by the firms
who make a speciality of mems shirts.
Pretty material for kimono jackets Is
often 10 be found in the upholstery de-
partment OF the larger shops, where a
full line of cotton draperies is carried
Unconventional patterns in cotton grapes
will sometimes be found in this depart
ment. and odd designs in washable ma
terials that combine qualities of beauty
and practical wear, and are, therefore,
serviceable for such usage. Cotton
grapes in blue and white delft and jap
anese patterns make dainty dressing
inc Japanese touch is given by making
the border or hem of turkey red.
Notwithstanding the many patents dis
played In the shops by garrulous demon
strators and warranted to hold in place
refractory shirt waists, the most practi :
cal solution of the trouble is found in
the simple arrangement OF hooks and
eyes, the former sewn securely TO the
skirt SO as to fasten in the latter sewn
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1903-06-14

w non an and ' the newly vi ne s.r 's's
fashion of wearing the watch
at the end of the jeweled fob thrust is
the belt. q vacancy has occurred at The
end of the long neck chain.
Some women have attached etuis, for
needlework or for comfts, to the
threads OF gold links or ornamental
beads that hang about their shoulders.
The Partisan fancy tends to decorate
these favorite ornaments with tiny fans.
The welI-dressed woman who keeps in
touch with every novelty is rarely or
never seen without fan no bigger than
her hand She has a Fan for morning
use, another FOR wear with her after
noon toilets. and others more costly to
harmonic with full evening dress. AL
ready the fad loving damsel has set
about making collections of fans.
1t IS only fair TO remark that this
fashion IS revival of custom of 1850
and Whereabouts. The few fans Of that
period that remain TO rosterity are Gag
erly cherished as heirlooms, Pe-fumed
wood and Japanese lacquer and painted
chicken-skin fans are revivals OF be
fore the war" days. All OF these fold
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1903-06-14

original designs of that name) are great
ly in demand, and are made up for he
smartest kind OF wear. Apparently their
principal aim is to disguise as much as
possible the lines of the figure, but by
a very clever manipulation of the lines
of the coat the figure is more than sus-
gested. and a slight woman can lool,
even slighter; while stout woman is
able to disguise the fact that she may
have too short waist, too high hips,
and too large bust to meet the require
ments Of the fashionable figure of today
Many of these short jackets are cross
between the bolero and the Elton, but
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1903-06-14

show the full sleeve of the waist worn
beneath. or in themselves may be large
below the elbow and above the elbow
the tullness held down in box plaits or
side plaits.
The plated jacket, made with the fit
ted shoulder yoke of last season, Is
again fashionable, with, Of course, G.
modification so that 1t need not look
like a last years jacket made over.
The long shoulder seam helps very
much in making these Jackets look diff
ferent, for one of the favorite fads is
to have the shoulder line so long by
means of the cape effect that at first
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1903-06-14

Tight-ftting. loose. on simple lines and
most elaborate lines, untrimmed and
very much overturned coats are seen,
and, in fact, in many instances they are
rather On the fantastic order. Then
there are short jackets not made 10
match the skirts, but to be worn with
any gown, and these are classed under
the head Of wraps and are worn on
cool days with gowns of either thin or
heavy materials. In fact, never before
this year has there been known such an
accumulation Of materials, there being
apparently no fixed rule as TO any two
materials that can be combined in the
same costume. and the rule holds good
IS regards colors as well as materials.
Elton and bolero jackets clearing. how
ever, very little resemblance to the
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1903-06-14

have one or two points in common with
both. They are not apparently difficult
to make, but In reality are rather intri
cate. They are made lined and uHlined
in lace. with the thinnest kind OF India
silk lining, or with no lining at all, and
sometimes so small that they rvt...::y
seem like the trimming mere than the
garment.
TIE boIero effect is certainly fashion
able again, and. after all, there are few
more becoming fashions. A waist trim
med with bolero effect in front can be
made soft and graceful looking with very
little difficulty, and the bolero can be
round or square, have long. pointed
fronts o. be quite shoct, with revers and
collar, or coiiarless and without any
revers. The sleeves may be slashed and
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1903-06-14

40 much is said about long coats
being fashionable, and so many
long coats are seen all the time,
that the uninitiatcd in the clothes ques-
ton may be given false impression as
to the prevailing fashions Of this season.
Long coats worn as wraps. and the long
three-quarter coat, with short skirt, are
certainly very smart and immensely
with many of the snartest gowns and
in the newest models are to be seen
short coats of every style imaginable.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1903-06-14
Some Aovice to the Summer Girl.

on the waist A still better idea is 70
use small crochet rings covered with
thread instead of hooks. These. If sewn
to the waist, do not rust Quite prae-
teal. too. are the narrow belts of tape
which may be had in the shops for
cents. and are fitted with adjustable
buckles for drawing the belt tightly
around the waist, and thus combining the
gathers OF the blouse into proper trim
ness.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1903-06-14

For the girl who confesses weakly 10
her extravaganza in dainty undertakings
an economical suggestion lies in the
deep embroidery fiouncings which are 10
be had in reasonably priced two yard
remnants. These me re up into the dam
test of chemises. after the French style:
that IS. the shaped garment with only
slight fullness across the bust. They
are easily put together and are ptcr-
tier without sleeves. Just fastened ever
the arms by wash ribbons. The Only
thinning necessary is g strip of beading
combining the gathers and finishing the
yoke The founcing forms the dainty
skirt.
The young woman who affects russell
shoes should bear in mind the eternal
fitness of things and add 30 her summer
wardrobe q number of pairs OF russell
hose. And in buying russell stockings
she should endeavor to get the shade as
near that of the shoes as possible.