davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-10-03

he approves them they are sure to linger.
The yoke Is disappearing from the short
skirt. and platts run straight from the
waist. Probably plain skirts gathered on
the hips and set around with military
braid will be worn In the lighter fabrics.
Apropos of the gathered skirt, 1t Is an ac-
cepted theory that draped fabrics conceal
stOutness better than tight effects. For
instance. the three-quarter sack coat is
most becoming wrap for a stout person.
drapery of soft dark fabric. such as
black crepe de chine, is perfect for a stout
figure; so are fine wolfe, lawn. batiste and
thin faced cloth. A dark blue linen batiste
made over less expensive material makes
a delightful frock.
pretty notion for the ever nice black
chiffon combined with white is a fine &C
Gordon plated skirt and waist of black
chiffon with bold applique of chantilly
lace. wide bertha of chantilly surrounds
yoke of gagged chiffon, and both may be
removed and the frock worn low. The
sleeves are of white chiffon, gagged the
whole length of the seam, which causes
them to fall very full. A black taffeta belt
Sleeve Novelties.
1t is more than likely that this autumn
VIII bring out some startling novelties in
the size of sleeves and the general trimming
of dresses and hats. Demi-saison toilets
are taking the place of distinction in the
arena Of fashion. Especially attractive
creations have appeared for country visit
Ing. including a series of half season gowns
which have a peculiar charm of their own.
Simplicity and daintinesS are the chief
characteristics of these toilets.
Pretty colored canvas, alpaca and wolfe
continue their popularity, and serges are
much In evidence. For chateau dresses light
colored cloth and tweeds are favored. Com
binattons with braiding, velvet and taffeta
strappings or appliques of colored cloth adj
init of great range for the dressmaker to
Introduce originality, and many surprises
are about to be launched in the cut of cor
consent allowed to be the most extraya-
CANT age in the history of Dress and yet on
meeting a French woman one realizes that
owing to the subtle arts Of dress she looks
much younger than her years. An effort
Is being made to adhere more closely to the
simplicity which is far more distinguished
looking than superabundance of trim
ming. CATHERINE TALBOT,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-10-03
AUTUMN COSTUMES.

IN point on to the frock at the back and
dips low in the front 1t has a hood of
ermine draped across the shoulders and
mingled with old brussels point, which is
held in place by beautiful old enamel and
paste buckles. The ermine is turned out
down the front to form stOles and also
trimmings to the Japanese sleeves. The
price of this glorious creation runs into
four figures. and not low figures either.
in shape these Capes are compromise be-
tween the pelerine and the Japanese sleeve.
Ermine will be used for trimmings and
Innings. Sable is used on every description
of garment, while golden otter and mink
will be seen later on. There is every rea-
son to believe that fur edgings will be seen
on cloth and velvet frocks and those who
have had narrow fur trimmings lying use
less this long while may now put them to
good use. Purple velvet mixed with ermine
bids fair to have great popularity for
evening wear Imitation ermine is also
used for girls evening wraps. One 1 have
seen. although not to be compared with the
genuine article, was very effective. 1t was
a three-quarter cape of purple velvet cut
with a shawl point at the back. An imita-
tion ermine hood, draped over the Shout
ders, was combined with some pretty imi-
tation bruges lace and chiffon wolfe in a
paler shade of purple 1t was lined with
the ermine, which was turned back in front
TO form reyers. and the tout ensemble was
really very pleasing.
After all. the furriers have rendered imi-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-10-03

are trimmed with scroll designs in ribbon
ruches. These are apt to be a little hard
unless softened with lace entire deux. l
saw a pretty gray wolfe frock, the skirt of
which was gathered at the waist and
ruched with tafeta ribbon of the same
shade. Between the ruchings were entire
deux of luxeuil lace. A pelerine effect was
obtained by ruches Of taffeta and the lace
entire deux. deep pointed belt of gray
suede finished the bodice. The sleeves, very
full from the elbow, ended in little cuffs of
lace and ruching.
No great change is expected to take place
in fabrics. Mixed thread effects will con-
tinue, and zibelines will be patterned with
colored spots of various sizes. Small collars
are coming into favor for coats-smaII
enough to reveal the shoulder line. The lit
tie capes which have been feature of the
coats for some time are longer than former
ly, and the indications are that they will
form sleeve. falling in folds around the
arm. Galloon is banished already by the
first rate tailors, and bright contrasting
velvet and cloth facings and pipings with
buttons to match are taking it's place
In Tailor Effects.
The short skirt is an established fact for
the tailor costume though it is probable
that the long skirt, somewhat modified
will appear in the more elegant tailor
frocks. A noted skirt modiste is still MAX
ing many skirts in round length. and while
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-10-03
THE HOMELY WOMAN.
Plain Looking Girl Finds Compensa-
ton for Lack of Beauty.

From the New York Mail and Express
THE pretty woman hasn't all the good
things in life," said plain woman yes
terday. She misses one thing certainly
the comfort of ugliness. To be sure she
has to he old enough to have philosophical
bit about life before she finds this out
And before that time she is certain to have
laid awake nights crying because the skin
deep gift of the gods has been denied her.
But by and by she begins to see that her
plain features. If they haven't brought her
joy, have spared her pain. In the first
place, she hasn't expected much of the
world, and SO she has not been disappoint-
ed. Then she has had leisure from her mir
ror and her admirers, and, next of all, from
herself, to think some thoughts worth
thinking and to do a little something of
was a remarkably pretty girl who was al
beautys best, and whose whole life was a
round of severe self-exactions that she
might keep her beauty unimpaired. The
poor child actually found time for nothing
else in life than the office of being her
own groom.
BEST of all. the plain woman Is reason
ably sure to escape the observation and
comment that Is sure to follow pretty
girl and which is not half so pleasing to
her if she is sensible and right minded as
the most of mankind think.
"Oh. yes life has plenty of compensa-
ton to offer the ugly woman, as surely
am qualified to know, having led the life Of
one, 10, these many years."
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-10-03
Millet's Technique.
From McClure's.

b.
All the more was Millet impelled to dis
engage from the realism, which he under
stood and could copy, the ideal type of
each Of the functions in the life of the
worker of the field. Therefore it Is not a
sower. reaper, a cleaner that he has
given. but it is the sower, the reaper, the
cleaner. For that very reason his work
tended to form of technique which re-
sembles the idea of sculpture. That is its
great charm, Its superiority; but at the
same time. its limitation, as far as the idea
of painting interferes He was forced to a
balance of expression which Obliged him to
forego many charms belonging to the spe-
c1al art of painting which Is representa-
ton of surfaces. These great sacrifices
sacrifices of beauties he himself loved
shocked the public of his time and many of
his fellow-artists. They will always be felt.
and VIII repel to some extent the desire for
charm that we naturally expect In the rep
resentation by color; but. as they are logi-
cal and necessary. and caused by great
emotion and the nobleSt sincerity, they will
also be accepted as final.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-10-03
LEISURE HOUR WORK.
An Artistic Brass Fender is Easy
Making
Written for The Evening Star.

written Tor Inc Evening Star.
The idea of giving people pleasure in the
things they must perforce use and make
themselves was recently Illustrated in the
making of a small ash fender. The design
of this useful article was original. 1t show
ed grouped discs the size of the small pill
box which served as a pattern.
To make this artistic fender the following
materials must be provided: One strip OF
sheet brass six feet long by foot wide.
| eighteen screw clamps, and piece of one
inch soft pine board. two inches longer
each way than the brass. The cowhide
malIet and instruments for tracing the pat
tern and for the background of beaten
work can be purchased at any art furnish
ing store.
The first step is to screw down the brass
securely to the pine board with the clamps.
Then take lead pencil and draw clear
line one and one-half inches from the edge
of the brass all around, using yard stick
for a ruler.
AS in the case of the ash fender, the pill
box makes an excellent pattern for discs.
and these should be scattered at regular in
tervals, in groups, on piece of paper the
size of the brass, after which they may be
transferred to the brass by means of i'm
preston paper.
Next, comes the only difficult part-tracing
the line around the edge, and then the discs
with the metal tracer. which should be
hammered lightly with the mallet. Here
delicacy of touch and much judgment will
be required to keep the line an unbroken
one.
After all the tracing is finished, the beaten
work between Will be comparatively easy,
and can be done by several persons at the
same time, If you wish to have "a brass
bee"
Some of your literary or student friends
will find manual labor a great relief from
brain work. and they will doubtless enjoy
spending many merry evenings with you
hammering away with the malletS to the
time of the music of their tongues.
The timers part comes next for it Will
be best for him to turn the top edge and
the ends large wire, and the bottom
edge over a fiat, narrow row to which he
attaches the dainty brass feet with nut
screws.
Last, but not least, comes the polishing.
which requires a free use of rotten stone
and turpentine and plenty of elbow grease.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-10-03
The table giving the relative height and
weight of a grown woman in normal health
10 fol

II you are a sallow brunette. for evening
wear choose orange. yellow and Indian red;
TOT day wear crimson. tan and golden
brown. If you are a genuine brunette you
can wear cream, deep blue gray and claret.
Avoid all greens. violets. mauves and green
blues. The pearl necklace fad is the
wearing OF one or three Barroque stones on
thin gold chain. These are in pear shape
with calyx setting In diamonds.
Glossomancie means reading character by
the form and size Of the tongue 1t is a new
science" introduced by some enterprising
Par1s1an II the tongue Is long, frankness
Is indicated; if 1t is short, Discrimination; If
broad, expansiveneSS; If narrow concentra-
ton. When the tongue Is both long and
large 1t implies that the possessor is a great
gossip, frank to disagreeablness and
thoughtleSS.
The thickening of the skin brought about
by handling golf sticks and tennis rackets
can easily be rubbed down and away with
pum1ce stone. Afterward rub into the palms
borated vaseline and put on gloves to keep
it from rubbing off. Any cream is good to
rub into the hands
About once a week put few drops of
t1ncture OF myrrh in the water with which
you brush your teeth. It helps to sweeten
the breath. A good dentifrice is made of
rlne chalk. ............... drs
oPahlSn soap. ................. 1 DIR.
F1orentine orris root. ........ dr.
Carbonate of soda .........1 10 dr.
shave the soap very fine. 1t Is a good
plan to keep small piece of white castil,
soap on the toilet table, and rub the tooth
brush over it when brushing the teeth. Used
once day 1T cleanses teeth and gums
good tooth wash for occasional use is made
by dissolving two ounces of powdered borax
in three pints of boiling water AS the solu-
ton cools mix it with one tablespoonful of
spirits of camphor and one teaspoonful of
uncture of myrrh. Keep in well-stopped
bottle, and for mix about two table
spoonfuls with a gill of lukewarm water
Use this once a week instead of the tine
ture of myrrh.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-10-03
The Well-Dressed Woman.

woman to be we'll dressed must, first Of
all. be exqusitely neat and clean. Her
clothing may not always be of the hand,
soonest but there is something in the way
in which she puts on her clothes. in her
careful attention to detail, that marks her
as the well-dressed woman.
Even though others outshine her in the
costliness Of their attire, there is something
SO fresh and unsullied in her appearance
that she has a greater charm than her
more extensively dressed sisters. The neat
woman never neglects her daily BATH she
pays scrupulous attention to her hair and
scalp: her teeth are well cared for. and her
hands. clean and white, with well-kept
nails. bespeak the gentlewoman.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-10-03
The Sense Of Smell.
From the Open Court.

From the Open Court.
That we have not entirely lost this an
imal basis of judgment is proved by the
fact we do tell ourselves very much of other
people by the nose. often unconsciousIy.
The blind distinguish their friends by the
smell of handkerchiefs or coats. Uncon-
scious sensations and unconscious 1udg-
ments have their field. We know far more
by smell than is supposed. Some classes
have. apparently, become degraded in
senses as well as habits. for their basis Of
social Judgment is below that of the ami
mails. Those who have had their senses
keenly educated are accustomed to Judge of
persons by odorS. Australian children pos
sesS the doglike sense Of trailing people by
scent. and experiment reveals that this is to
some degree present in every one. Strong
attachments are not so rigidly ideal as we
like to suppose. There is physical basis
to all our likes and dislikes It Is this
which underlies the demand of refined peo-
pie that their friends shall be cleanly.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-10-03

PARlS. september ", lWS3.
Fashions in furs have changed since last
winter. but the possessor of good skins can
have them brought up to date. albeit this Is
not cheap. The winters furs will be more
beautiful than ever. The present day furrier
has developed into genius. He can turn even
a common little mole to account. and the
squirrel figures in variety of novel ways.
When handled slNllfully the latter is
beautiful fur Sealskins will be very fash
ionable this winter. especially in boleros.
pelerne collars and carriage wraps. mixed
with sable Seaskin always has value,
whether in out of fashion. If really
good furs may ever be said to be out of
fashion.
In fIrs and lace we want everything of
the best, and it is foolish to discard the
genuine for imitation. Ermine. sable
old lace and Jewels are possessions which
should never be parted with. They are the
elements of most magnificent opera
cloak. l have lately seen of sable. a
long cape lined with ermine which falls
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-10-03
To Relieve Bare Necks.

Some women, and young girls especially.
look we'll with the neck bare. but veil
twisted round the hat and brought round
the throat is really necessary for this try
ing fashion. Even If the throat is rounded
and firm and fairly white, the bare look is
unbecoming to most faces. Strings do
away with this difficulty, or. what is most
successful perhaps. the fashion so well
adopted by a few artistic women OF one
string wound round the throat loosely. the
end left to hang or lightly pinned with
brooch or two on the corsage. The strings
should be of tulle or very soft chiffon.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-10-03

you can always tell an Englishman,"
said the Briton. proudly.
'Of course you cam" replied the Yankee,
'but it doesn't do any good, because he
thinks he knows it all."-Philadelphis
Ledger.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-10-03

No matter how~slight or how extreme the
decollete. 1t must be round or square. The
V-shape is quite thing OF the past.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-10-03

tations not only wearable, but becoming,
and for those who cannot afford the real
fur they combine warmth with cheapness.
A bolero of squirrel fur with lace pelerine
is charming. These boleros are nearly al
ways fastened at the waist by kid or
panne belt and are pouched or plain, ac-
cording to fancy. Boleros have many va
riations, though they have not altered ma
terially in shape during the past few
years. with the exception that shoulders
are cut longer and sleeves are more volumi-
nous, and there are some differences in the
collar
Some furriers are using two furs to-
gether, and panne or velvet is often COM
bined with fur. For street wear nothing
seems so smart as the neat fur bolero with
short cloth walking skirt. The new
mushroom shade goes beautifully with
squirrel and moleskin, while brown of every
shade is worn with brown furs. The toques
worn with furs are generally of velvet to
match. Fur toques have not appeared as
yet.
For American Women.
Some beautiful frocks have been made for
Americans over here in brown and mush-
room shades. A tailor-made suit, consist
ing of a tight-fitting bodice reaching just
below the waist and a skirt just clearing
the ground, was in dark brown CLOTH
This was trimmed with pale mushroom
cloth dotted with black and worn with a
chenille toque of the two shades trimmed
with some pink wings. Collars are high
and boned at the back and sides. Dainty
cravats of lawn and spotted muslin are
great Improvement on the stiff collar which
was once thought Indispensable to a tailor
made frock.
Evening dresses will be very gorgeous this
year Old Louis brocadeS and jetted gowns
will be worn. Gold and silver tissue will
form the foundation of empire gowns. Ac-
Gordon plated tea gowns and young girls
evening frocks are still popular. Picture
yxyff <Nf %L1 t,xa
pot order and gracefully curvng brims,
trimmed with one very long plume. Che
nile toques with fiat crowns are still SEEN
but the autumn models are showing high
crowns. The basque is revived again. Some
of the little coats have charming small
basques. Soft, crinkled suede belts are
much worn. Some of these in brown are
fetching.
Good Place to See
st. Mortz has been full to overlooking. 1
hear that at dance there many smart
DANES wore hats with their low gowns
Many frocks for afternoon and fete wear
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-10-03

OHce week bathe tne face WITH warm
milk at night II you want a fair, smooth
skin. Adding little oatmeal to the milk
Is good plan. the oil in the oatmeal being
beneficial to the complexion. Rinse with
clear water. and before wiping rub on
little glycerine and rosewater. little
touch of powder is all very well IL you
think it improves your appearance but
after lines begin to appear on the face
powder. If used daily, only helps to accen-
tuate them.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-10-03

rosy cheeks. Walk quickly. breathe deeply.
Take a long breath. close your mouth re-
tain the breath as long as possible, and ex-
hale slowly. Your cheeks will flush with
the exertiOn of really and truly breath
ing" your head will be held erect and your
chest will expand.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-10-03
Good Place to See.

ST. Moritz has been full to OVERLOOKING. 1
hear that at dance there many smart
DANES wore hats with their low gowns
Many frocks for afternoon and fete wear
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-10-03
Models Are Lovely.

There is no lack of prettiness in the realm
of the more elaborate neckwear. This fall
sees the recurrence Of styles of several
years back. Among these are the wide silk
ties. with the ends trimmed with lace APP
pliuue. The French are the creators of the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-10-03

About once week put few drops Of
tincture of myrrh in the water with which
you brush your teeth. It helps to sweeten
the breath. A good dentifrice is made Of
The Globe-republican. [volume] (Dodge City, Kan.) 1889-1910, 1903-07-30
Cattle Dipping Stopped.

Topeka, July 0.--Aftcr a conference
with Governor Bailey tile live stock
sanitary board again modified its
mango and itch quarantine order. The
new order gives person the right to
move CATTLE from one county to another
without dipping, providing he makes
atlidadit that the cattle are free from
itch or mango. Where cattle are moved
from Kansas TO another state Or terri.
tory the government quarantine, es-
tablshed by the bureau Of animal
industry will apply
The Globe-republican. [volume] (Dodge City, Kan.) 1889-1910, 1903-07-30

La Junta, Colo, July 27-At meet
ing Of the lockout Santa Fe shopmcn,
the strike begun ten days ago because
the pay checks had not arrived TO time,
was declared off. The men decided to
accept the company's terms and will 80
back as individuals. 1t is understood
that several Of the leaders will not be
reinstated.
The Globe-republican. [volume] (Dodge City, Kan.) 1889-1910, 1903-07-30

Tucson, Ariz, July ga terrific
tornado visited Tombstone and Fair.
bank and although reports are meager
it is thought that many who were
caught in the path of the storm must
have persisted. Hardly had 1t subsidized
when water came down the canyon
and Fairbanks was under six feet Of
water. The inhabitants fled To the
hillside for safety. In The valley below
and above Fairbanks several ranch
houses are known to have been dcmol-
ishcd.
The Globe-republican. [volume] (Dodge City, Kan.) 1889-1910, 1903-07-30
GUILTY Of GRAND LARCENY,
Accused Had Received $4,000 In Inter'
est Stone Cutters Union.

est Stone Cutters Union.
New York, July sa.-The trial o.
Lawrence Murphy, the accused treas
urct Of Nhe Stonccutters' Union, wa'
resumed before Judge Newburger In
the court Of general sessions. Mrs.
Lawrence Murphy and Colonel Baird
of Brooklyn, who paid the $4,000
check to tile 'secrct committee" Of the
Stonecuttcrs' Union, appeared for the
defense.
Colonel Baird told Of the payment Of
the check for $4,000 after Il demand
forS5O,OOO had been refused, but Judge
Newburgcr refused to allow the wit
ness to answer whether the union
would have allowed the men to return
to work If the $4,000 had not been
paid. Mrs. Theresa Murphy, wife Of
the defendant, said she was present
when the 5000 was paid to Black.
The court allowed each side one.half
hour to sum up.
The case went to the jury. After
being out twenty minutes II verdict was
returned that Murphy was guilty Of
grand larceny in the first degree us
charged in the indictment. Murphy
was rcmanded for sentence.