The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1903-09-29

( SANNAA E%iAN 5AHJB opREcA ~ NO kAACb
rectly on top of one another. AS in all
! Spanish America, the building material
is adobe, stone and plaster, very little
| wood being used, even the floors being
generally tiles, bricks or cement. Ex-
cept the huts of the Indians, all are
enormous structures, sometimes RAM
| bling around two or three inner courts;
and though many of them contain sew
eral shops and shelter a number of
families, one finds nowhere those COM
Portable little houses so much in de-
mand in the north, which can be fur
nished at small cost and easily kept in
| order. Here the newly married pair
| must take a casa large enough for a
garrison, or live in rooms above some
| shop, or remain with the old folk, ac-
cording to their taste and means.
Perhaps that accounts for the fact
i that most of the great houses are scam
tily furnished. their long and lofty
apartments looking as bare and cheer
less as so many town-halls, without, 2.
| trace of that coy home-look which
| American housewives delight to pro-
duce. Though the Spanish language is
said to be the richest of all that are
spoken, it has no such word as "home,"
nor anything nearer to it than hogan
(hearth) which really signifies nothing
in that direction, since in all South
America, among rich and poor, in the
highlands and the lowlands, there Is not
| hearth to sit by, nor stove, CRATE
or other contrivance in which a fire
may be built for warmth and cheerful
ness.
Though Chulumani is the capital of
an, important province, it contains
neither hotel nor tambo; therefore all
travellers must depend upon private
hospitality. Through letters of intro
| duction, our party was received with
open arms into the house of strangers,
| where several rooms were assigned to
| us and the best food the land affords
provided for our entertainment. The
| worst of it is that ones generous enter
| tanners would feel grievously insulted
1 if money were offered in return for
their hospitality. Gifts are received,
| however, under the guise of regalos or
souvenirs of friendship, and one needs
to carry about the country a regular
Yankee peddlar's stock of notions" to
distribute in payment for his board.
The arrival of Strangers, and especially
of Americans, creates an immense SEN
sation in these isolated communities,
and in our walks abroad, though es-
| corted by the Jefe Politico, whose office
| corresponds to that of mayor in the
United States, besides the local doctor
| and the Cure-the three most infiuen-
| tial persons in the district-we were fol-
lowed by a gaping crowd which in
creased at every turn. Outside of our
own party there was not an English
speaking person in the whole depart
ment Of Yungas.
There is nothing Of greater interest
to be seen in Chulmani than the quaint
lold town itself. The only mandatory,
II so it may be called, is an establish
lment where cocoa leaves are pressed
Unto thirty-five pound bales by primi-
tive machine in the hands Of four Indi-
Ians. There is but one sign-board in the
city, and that is where 1t is least needed
lon the Institute or Catholic col
llege; blue-painted strip, whose golden
letters are in the form of books, with
an ink stand stuck full Of pens for a
/ period. The girls occupy the lower
floor, the boys the upper, and precisely
at seven O'Clock on every day of the
week but Sunday, school begins, and
holds till five in the afternoon. The in
stitute being across the narrow street
directly opposite our bedroom window,
we are awakened every morning. by
childish voices piping a Catholic hymn;
and all day long we have the full benz
eft of the lessons, as according to uni
versal custom in these southern co,in-
tries, the children study aloud, this one
| shouting out his arithmetic that one
| his grammar and a third his spelling
lesson. The scholars are of all classes,
| from the well-dressed sons of the Jefe
to bare-footed Indian children. Some
of the boys are designed for the priest
hood and all are sedulously trained III
the Catholic route to heaven.
a That the path is somewhat thorny is
evidenced by the frequent sound of
blows and the wailings of some poor
| urchin.
Then there is the market plaza, al
ways crowded with Indians and Cholos,
where all the merchandise that reaches
this secluded spot is exposed for sale In
open booths, or on the ground, from
Indian embroidery and Partisan fabrics,
to meats, fruits and vegetables
Fronting one side of this plaza Is the
| village church, and as Sunday is the
| great gala and business day of the
week, we were compelled to force a
/ path through the dense crowd, stepping
over little the sanctuary. 10 kneel
among a throng of Indians, on floor
| whose tiles have been worn thin by the
knees of centres of worshipers, while
Mass is chanted and incense burned, Is
not an uncommon experience; but true
church-goers in any land were this far
country. One of our party, a type of
the best class of Spanish Americans, is
a musical composer of unusual genius;
and and made the long-silent and de-
crepit old instrument speak as never
in the palmiest days of its youth. I am
afraid that the music, mostly improvis-
ed, now solemn, now JOYOUS, now bit
from some popular opera, now an i'm
passioned love-song, was hardly in &C.
cord with the Mass; but that it reached
the dullest heart was shown by the
Cholo girl with her baby of unknown