The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-09-06

and this throat finish, too narrow to 10
conspicuous, is seldom unbecoming.
Frils Of lace are often substituted for
those OF n,ousseline, and at times with ad-
vantage to the costume. One Of the most
attractive cloth street gowns of the Partisan
collection is built OF fine cloth in warm
brown with a golden tinge. Its slightly
frilled skirt has three-inch panel Of white
cloth worked in brown French knots, Set
in down the middle of the front and running
around the sides and back Of the skirt are
two groups of fat-shaped bands two inches
wide. These are laid on q foundation of
white cloth and their upper edges are
stitched down with heavy white silk, while
their lower edges are cut, unfinished and
loose. The white cloth foundation is en-
tirely covered and shows only when the
loose edge Of the band or cut fold is lifted
or stands out trife. This idea Is q good
one for development In any dark cloth
and gives a note of relief without MARI ing
a severe tailor effect.
The short bolero Of the brown suit also
has the cut folds running around it, and
these are repeated upon the faring bell
shaped elbow sleeves, beneath which fall
large soft puffs and frills Of creamy lace.
The under blouse is OF this same lace, with
strapping Of brown cloth embroidered
in shades of violet, and upon both bolero
and skirt are tabs Of brown cloth cut out
to show underneath motifs Of white cloth
embroidered in violet.
A very broad shaped girdle Of soft white
kid, with long buckle OF dull gold, &C.
companies the costume.
A red cloth gown, much admired and
! remarkably chic, but suitable only for the
woman with an irreproachable figure has
in front. is absolutely tight fitting and
severe and buttons straight from throat
to waist line with q single row Of gold
ball buttons. In the back the c9at u tight
fitting and has a straight skirt reaching
almost to the knees. Buttons are get az
piece is of red velvet, braided and en-
broidered in gold and black, and the e1-
| travagantly full sleeves have deep turn
back cuffs Of the embroidered velvet, and
| lingerie frills.
The skirt fits plainly over the hips, and
at the knee line full plated panels are set
| in, giving width around the bottom.
The skirts of the models are the puzzle
| and despair of the visiting dressmakers
I and. with the sleeves receive the lions
| share Of attention. Fulness is present in
| almost all u them from gauze to zibeine.
l DuJ lnc iuluc6S 10 Wisely ioANiou o&AN eii'
| skirt is so cut as to avoid bulk around the
hips. Many OF the French skirts show a
seam down the middle Of the front. plain
straight front being desirable even when
| the rest Of the skirt has ample folds. Trim
| mings. az O rule, run around the skirt.
| This ia sad for the short women and fat
| women, but the fact remains that vertical
| trimming is rare, and possibly the wisest
| compromise for the woman unwilling to
| cut her height is TO adopt the simple skirt
| trimmed only with Paquin folds at the
bottom. To be sure, these folds run around.
but they cut the height very much less
than does trimming Of color or material.
Comparatively few skirt yokes appear
upon the Partisan models, the fulness
falling straight from the waistband In most
cases. and though there is perfect froth
of frou frou frills set upon the drop skirt
or petticoat, the skirts OF the best models
| do not seem to aim at pronounced bottom
flare, but fall fairly straight to the floor.
! save at the back.
Very small leaden strips are set into
! the bottom finish of some skirts TO make
| the flilness fall from waist to hem in straight
| folds A marked flare still prevails, how
ever, in the trailing skirts and tailored
| morning costume.