New-York tribune., 1903-02-26

That cookery is an art none deny. That it is. or
is surprising how seldom people recognize that,
above al things, it is handicraft; craft y which =;
its natural dextertty with which the mind has com
RRaye RRa[@t6y tbc fin ai! of Francate for delicious
flavor. the instinct for actual cookery OF s0yer.
but if hand has not been o trained 5sS tho TO
the making XII & OF ~ cored bv the exT erence
of generations of craft masters committed TO your
tai Qualities will avail you nothing A smoky stove
will add peculiar flavor OF ITS own; RlnGn Rbo 10
all vegetables VIII make some practicaiiy useless
and your palate may detect flaw, but Will be uil-
able 10 tell the neglected rule OF thumb which is
but a science. one may know-as all cooks should
know. though it is simply appalling 1o now few: even
exact proportions of various ingredients which can
of sTHar to butter or eggs which is within the
bounds Of possibility IN the 6g S sv9 9i 1o notR
ing if you fail to whsk those eggs as they should
he he which beetroot sugar can be distinguished from
sugar to the confoundng OF The gEocer fti fit
ness which only the cook, but als2 the mistress
hears as a reply to the all important question of
training. "Oh. if you pease'm have been par
but - 4 I jus thought would like the cooking
Nov the e 9bTG1S a5t eP II to ha h TRs
not as rule n In It's s. Place eaTn some n9
possibly OF D5,6 cSokns o@ns iessons TweIve pre-
sHrnnbly. and probably only demonstration lessons
a1 that Lessons that are good enough should
pa stmaster of the handiCraft desire new IDEAS OF
new dishes but for mere apprehtice-eVen 10.
that journeyma the kitchenm ald taxing ner nrs'
cooks ulaca-are simply vile OF the deVu-
What would you think of a carpenter VINO started
in business because he fancied he would ike the
work? What would you think or an employer VINO VINO
engaged him on high wages, expecting him TO learn
the manual dexterity and nnumeraole rules OF
thumb required for mortising, joining, planning, saw
ing etc. in course of twelve lessons during
hand? And if such action would be regarded as
the height of folly In regard to carpenter why
rot in regard to cook?
But here We touch that fundamental oeilef
that anv once turn his hand to domestic ser
vice that IL requires special training. thhl'
briefly I is not trade-or, if 1t be one. vaguely:
that IL IS what Scotch people call IfeS TOOTH
for rbb!sh-which lies the root of the disreputc
into which IT has fallen So the blame TOT III, tIs
which create the domestic servant ullICulty' LSs
as much with the employer as the eInployS by
nor insisting training mistreSseS DEGRADE ser
involved some display of aptitude. would take a
p.ide In displaying NJ ,-.4.
pad as this is in the other branches OF domestic
service il is thousand times worse III those
fond: for-ff you think matters out 10 their iogcHi
and-our food IS practically the love feast or Htt
In frs essence Il perpetual sacrament nat else
iudaed can il be- seeing that IL is sacrinee OF one
lie i'm order that another may. lve-ayet even 20
the vegetarian since YOU can Kill a canbage quite
as efrectuallv as kill chicken. IL may not
be the same kind of life, 1t is true. tnough IN eoou
eooth do we know much even or our own par
ticular kind thai afford to lay down the
laa as v'hat is life and what Is not one thhe
ar anv rate il CERTAIN. C4cken or cabbage, IL -
the raw material OF ourselves. OF our tllnns an
bodies which we calmly intruSt TO the preparation
of q PEI son who says she just thinks she wouid
like the Job Now the concrete effect OF this the
indescrbsble spelling of good nateriai-ano suose-