Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1903-05-21
NEW YORK FASHION LETTER
Gotham's Creations Regarded as Su.
perior to Paris Gowns-Attractive
Suits for Summer


New York, May 15.-Though much Is
sad and written about the superiority of
imported gowns, q comparative study
oil Paris and Gotham. New York fash
ION shows Gotham's creations to no dis
advantage whatever Indeed one smart
inatron whose summer wardrobe had just
arrived Is really lamentlng the fact that
her outfit surpasses her neighbours Am
erican-made gowns only in price and
French trade mark.
mis- of course, speaks we'll for Ameri-
can taste and ingenuity which seems to
nave reached the climax in this season s
MODES. summer coats are by no means
new, for we have had them in pongee,
canvass, wolfe, etamine taffeta and CLOTH
put the latest novelty in this direction
Deggars description. 1t is delightful
coat OF grass linen made over liberty
satin and peau de Cygne intended rather
TO complete the fashionable ensemble
than to add to comfort for it is merely
n trihe light as air and bilowy as sea
foam"
The design is very loose fitting with an
inverted box plat running down the CEN
ire OF the back Over the shoulders there
Is draped pointed collar of linen edged
with the finest of thread lace and hand
embroidered. At the front the collar ex-
tends in long stole to the bottom of the
coat which is q little less than three
quarter length
At either side Of the front the skirt of
inc coat is slashed to n depth of nine
inches, the incision being lace bordered
| ana finished at the top with tassels of
silk and chiffon.
a simpler design suitable for morning
wear Is carried out in heavy butcher $
linen embroidered with linen threads
The sleeves have deep cuffs of embroid-
cry and the round sailor collar is trimmed
IN the same elegant way. The coat is
iald III box plaits from neck and hem and
confined at the belt line with n band of
embroidered linen.
Many of the canvass. pique and linen
suits for summer are finished with the
coats instead of the regulation eton
jackets. They are roomer and more sug-
gestive of comfort on sizzling days than
Is the close fitting eton, so this is prob
ably one of the chief reasons why they
enjoy such high favor.
There is no end to the possibilities Of
the lawn dress. This term includes all
of the thin washable goods, which can be
as costly as silk or as cheap as cotton.
Green in the coolest and the most delight
ful shades are being used for dainty sum
mer frocks. A very fetching design has
the skirt made with yoke over the hips
composed of shirring, while medallions
OF lace are let in, coming to point in
the front and fitting the hips closely. Be-
low the yoke the skirt falls very full
with wide tuckings round the bottom and
long sweeping train at the back. The
dress is made over a slip of taffeta
which can easily be duplicated in lawn
trimmed with ruhles of the same mat
erial. edged with lace at the bottom of
the skirt.
The bodice has deep yoke formed like
the yoke on the skirt, of shrrings and
lace medalions let in, tiny horizontal tuck
ings compose the vest, which comes into
the waist quite full, blousing in front
ana hooking up the back with an apple
green silk girdle round the waist The
sleeves are tucked quite tight to the ell
bow, with very full mandolin cuffs APP
pliqued with the lace falling to the wrist
and gathered into clerical cuff of lawn
and lace.
A notable feature of the linen frocks
which promise to become exaspera tingly
popular is the short skirt, but what one
saves on the skirt must be expended in
the boot so far as money is concerned
the matter is as broad as it is long With
short skirt one has the choice of a high
boot-patent leather. almost every time
or of shoes and stockings chosen for each
other. Gray. pale blue, champagne, biege
and mauve suede shoes with precisely
matching stockings are not to be despis-
ed and are really very elegant in effect
This fashion would have been out of
seems to be getting further and further
away from the conventions of earlier
days and as long as the artistic sense is
not shocked almost any model is per-
MISSILE.
The woman who wishes 20 expand her
wardrobe by retouching last season.
gowns should consider chiefly her figure
Everything depends upon a perfect out
line. a trained skirt is quite wrong with
the dropping shoulder line and n touch
OF white tends to lend the figure fulness
white yoke in a bodice gives the appear
ancc of shoulder depth and breadth, while
tiat-chested figure can be toned up in
the most stunning fashion by the use
of white vests, jabots and other trim
ming down the centre of the front.
The corpulent sisterhood should cling
to the touch of black for nothing so con-
tracts and depresses the effect of the
tendency toward a bonpoint. To make
the neck and wrists appear smaller than
they really are nothing equals a black
stock and cuffs, especially IL they trim Il
light bodice.
y striking example of black and white
combination is shown in a Powered chiffon
gown with borders of black chiffon. The
background is of white clouded with
black. The gown is made over rose color,
so that pink tints CLEAN through the
filmy black and white. Tho flowers are
over the surface and are of black outlined
with raised white line.
Tho skirt, long and graceful. is quito
simply made. with a tlouncc bordcred with
a two-inch fold of black chiffon. The
bodice has bolero of the chiffon that
ends midway between the neck and the
pink girdle and is bordered with a two
inch band of black chiffon.
The upper sleeves also terminate in SINH
lar folds. and when the wearer's arms
hang at her sides these bolero bands are
on a line with those of the sleeves.
1t would be difficult to imagine anything
more feminine and yet so sweetly simple
as this seasons modes The prettiest
effects Of the winter fashions have been
retained and reproduced in thin materials
and, with additional touches. the summer
girl of nineteen hundred and three has "a
wardrobe filled with creations as airy and
fairy as the traditional Lillian.
MAUDE GRIFFIN.
DOTNTE.D