The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1903-02-15
to wear with skirts OF dull black sllk,
crepe de Chine or cloth.
MOURNING MILLINERY.

MOURNING MILLINERY.
= Tho hats which will be worn during
tho spring by those In mourning follow
closely the lines OF hats OF other ma
terfals They are broad and fiat; every
thing-from tho shape OF the hat to tho
trimming and manner of placing ITEM
phasizes this effect Tho most OF tho
hats follow two general styles-thc tur-
ban OF the. flat shape that has been In s
vogue this winter. Hats arc made en-.
tirely OF crepe laid in folds or tucks,
trimmed with bows OF crepe or OF dull .
silk and sometimes with dull Jet buckles.
Other hats are made OF fine dull black
straw and crepe, Hats OF tulIe are
worn when crepe Is discarded; they are
trimmed with dull black flowers and
Jet ornaments Fashionable mourning
laid in folds. with. perhaps, only an 4
aigrette for trimming light fancy
straw Is combined with tulle in the
foundation of other hats. Dull black
foliage Is much used, particularly that
OF the rose. and the use OF grapes and
grape leaves Is conspicuous. The grapes
are made Of mousseline or chiffon
stuffed.
THE VARIOUS ACCESSORIES.
Some very tasteful and becoming as,
engagements In neckwear are shown fol
mourning. Stocks Of crepe laid in folds
are finished with crepe bows in the
front. Chiffon and mo1sseline de sox
are used and crepe de Chine and TIA
dull-finished silks are extensively en-
ployed. The bishop effeott1se stool
!! with tabs in front-appears In the neciu!!
wear for mourning as It does in all FASH
ionable arrangements for the throat
Sheer white linen collars and cuffs
which formerly were worn only By.
widows. are now very much used fof
mourning by every one who must al;
sumo the garb OF grief. Neck runs and:
sets OF ruffle and mutt are evolved from
crepe. dull silks and chiffon
The mourning handkerchiefs are very
much more varied and elaborate than
In tho past. There arc fine linen squares
with hemst&ched borders of black. but
from across the seas come handk erchiefs
In the symbolic black-and- white, which
show their French origin in the individ-
uality, diversity and oddly OF the de-
signs and the daintiness and the DELI
cncy Of the execution. For instance.
ono of these imported squares Of sheer
white linen has q very narrow hera-
stitched border Of black; Just inside Ia
a wider border Of white and then still
wider border OF black. and this Is em-,
broidered In tiny white dots. Very
narrow hemstitched borders prevail on
the French nandkerchiefs. but some
have scalloped edges finely embroidered
In black. Dainty designs, frequently Of
| q floral character. are embroidered in
black-and-whitc. taking the form Of
borders, narrow or wide, running around
the handkerchief inside the hemstitched
or scalloped edge, or designs in the
4 corners OF tho handkerchief embroidered
with true French daintiness and DELI
cacy. Printing in black is frequently
combined with embroidery to bring out
the full beauty Of the design. "A square
of snowy. sheer linen with a narrow
1lemstitched border Of black has the
corners adorned with design formed
Of a large violet leaf in black, from
each side OF which gracefully nod three
violet blooms in black. the design being
exquisitey emphasized by the art OF
the embroiderer's needle.
Mourning jewelry occupies prominent
| place in the exhibits OF the fashionable
jewelers.. This phase Of jewelry has
developed wonderfully In extent, variety
| and beauty; 1t has shared In the great
progress which has been made generally
in the jewelers. art in America COL
ored stones are out OF place In MOURN
Ing. To see the hands loaded down;
| with emeralds rubles, turquoises etc,
when only crepe and deep mourning
fabrics are considered possible. Is Ger.
talnly not In good taste, but diamonds
and pearls, having no color, are the
first Jewels that are allowed.
In the displays of mourning jewelry,;
gun-metal, gun-metallized silver and
black enamel are conspicuous. Tho use
full long chain comes of gun-metal and
gun-metallzed silver links Other chains
links. but all OF rather light and ele.,
CANT design. Some Of the chains ara;
set with diamonds, pearls. moon-stonea
or crystals. and amethysts are efrec-
lively interspersed among gun-metal or
4 gun etallized silver links. Othed chains
are strands Of small beads Of onyx,