Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-09-05
Table and Kitchen.
To Make Good Pastry is Fine Art.

skill and understanding of the few. rules
which govern and of the principles inVolv-
ed in the work.
The changes which flour undergoes In
the process of baking pastry are similar
to those in bread. The EMBELLISHMENTS
of pastry does not come from this source,
therefore, but from the changes which the
heat of the oven produces in the fats COM
blinded with the flour.
Puff paste is the richest of all the sew
source and these are apt to cause disturb
ances in the weak and dyspeptic stomach.
Puff paste is the richest of all the sew
eral varieties and submitted to the hlghest
temperature in baking, but is, withal, the
most wholesome when made of best quailty
of materials, for in order to succeed III
making puff paste only the freshest. sweet
est butter, freed from salt tuse unsalted IL
you can get it,, must be used Inc pro-
cess of rolling, folding, chlillng' ana tneii
submitting the paste to Il very nlgh teni-
perature in the oven, produces a pie crust
that is composed of wlfer-hke layers sep
arated by large air cells; the air thus IN
closed suDjectei to the intense neat Oh ne
oven, expands, and not only separates the
fiaky dough into the thin transparent lay
ers, but thoroughly cooks, by moist heat,
the starch, OF which straight pastry hour Is
almost entirely composed.
Pie crust pastry that forms soma.
tenacious m after baking is unwhole-
some and especially harmful to dyspep-
tic stomach. as it possesses the objection
able features of an pastry coupled with
its r--istance to the digestive fluids, which
can penetrate it with the greatest dlf1lculty.
In cases where the digestive action is not
perfectly normal the opposition is too great
and the stomach has q sorry time rloclhS
itself of the troublesome mass.
baking powder is sometimes reSorted 10
as a means of giving lightness and poros-
ity This is allowable when a rich biscuit
crust such is used for meat raised pes
is to be made. but is not satisfactory LOT
other kinds Choosing between two evils.
strive for the lesser; therefore If you must
indulge in class of foods In no wise es-
sential considered from hygiene STAND
point, regard them as luxurles-to Whch
class most pastries belong-and do not at
tempt to economic too closely In the ma
terials which are compounded in them.
Flour for pastry must contain large
proportion of starch If you want tender,
faky crust that may be digested by the
ordinary pie lover The freshest, sweetest
butter is the choice among shortcomings 1or
fine pastry. Part butter and part lard is
used and the skillful pastry cook will make
the most perfect and wholesome pastry
with pure all vegetable shortcomings, but
pastry made with lard alone is never as
satisfactory and far more indigestible than
when good butter is used.
A Few General Rules.
The heat of the oven is of the greatest
Importance. The fiakineSs depends as much
on the baking the mixing of the paste
and the rich color and fine appearance is
only obtained by having the oven properly
heated Gas fuel should be more satisfac-
tory for baking pastry than coal. for it Is
necessary to have the fire clear-a strong,
steady underheat at bottom of oven to
cause air which is embodied in the pastry
to heat and by quick expansion puff up ard
separate the thin layers of pastry before
the top and sides begin to brown-this
complished the quicker it browns the bet
ter. If coal is used for baking see that the
crate is clean and free from ashes, the
non-conducting property of ashes will keep
the bottom of your oven from heating prop
erly. Have the fire well raked down, glow
ing steady and clear to the end of the bak-
ing. Do not use earthen pie plates or you
run the risk of having soggy pie crust. Tin
is best even for juicy pies, for the contents
of the pie should not escape in baking. Dust
the tins with four-do not grease them.
When pies are baked Immediately slip ,hem
from the pie tins to heated plates. from
which they may be served.
Oven thermometers are very convenient.
but those to whom they would be of most
service cannot always obtain them. An
od-fashioned test may be tried to gauge
heat of the oven If your hand is accus-
toned to heat hold it in the oven and
slowly count twenty. If at the end of that
time you must withdraw your hand be-
cause of the excessive heat the oven is
about right for pies One pie does not
require as hot an oven at first does an
ovenfu of pies, the large quantity of
cold pastry lowers tho oven heat very con-
siderably, and the pastry must be ice cold
until it goes into the oven. If possible let
all pie crust stand until thoroughly chilled
before baking. Puff paste cannot be baked
satisfactorily on the day it is made, as it
must be thoroughly chilled after mixing
Even after your pie tins are lined with
paste it should he allowed to stand in a
very cold place for some time. This will
often prevent the juices in pies from soak
ing into the crust more effectually than
any other precaution.
Brushing the crust with white of egg and
sprinkling with sugar and -four will also
protect the undercruSt.
Most failures in making ordinary pastry
are due to the kind and quality of flour
used. too much handling. not having all
materials chilled or the oven properly
heated While it is possible to get blend
of flour which will for all kinds of
baking, do not imagine that all superior
bread fiours will answer equally we'll for
pastry. Flour must be well sifteu before
measuring. and repeated sitting after meas
uring will improve all T 5try, cake or brea d
made from it.
Puff Paste.
Take half pound Of butter and wash 1t
in a bowl of ice water until 1t becomes
smooth and elastic Then place it In a nap
out into fat cake and place on Ice until
needed. Measure two cupfuls Of sifted
flour and sift again with half teaspoonful
of salt. heaping 1t in center of molding
board or on a marble slab. which is to be
preferred. Make well in the center and
put in a teaspoonful of sugar and half the
white of an egg, and piece of the washed
butter the size of a large egg. With the
tips of the fingers work these materials
around gradually, Incorporating the flour
and adding little ice water from time to
time. using enough ice water as you work
in the flour to make a smooth paste. The
exact quantity cannot be given, as flour will
absorb more moisture at certain times than
at others. but from one-quarter to half q
cup will be required When you have q
dough that can be worked, knead 1t until II
is a smooth ball. then place it on a dish and
place it on ice to get thoroughly cold about
fifteen minutes. Then divide the dough
evenly and roll out one piece into a square
spread one-half with the butter that has
been standing on ice. break 1t quickly into
bits. dredge little -four over the butter,
place the other portion of paste on top and
press down lightly with the rolling pin:
then roll lightly from you into long, mar
row strip, keeping 1t as even as possible.
Then fold 1t over to the center from either
end, then fold again, making three LAYERS