The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1903-11-29

crepe. or at most embellished with
tippet and muff of monkey skin
Though there are other black furs In
the market, this long-haired and inky
pelt still reigns supreme for mourning
purposes. 1t even supplies band
trimming, highly effective, for some OF
the imported gowns, a number OF
whose crepe trimmed skirts run 20
gore outlinings But though 1t mas
stylish merits, such a gown is lar less
suitable to first mourning than one
plainer. or at least with the trimming
confined to the skirt bottom. Excess
of zeal in the matter of decoration is
everywhere productive of bad results
and nowhere is it more felt than In
mourning garments.
For the widow newly bereaved one
or two bands of English crepe at the
hottom of a skirt of Henrietta cloth
is considered sufficient ornamentation.
Her bodice is equally plain, her white
widows cap is barely a thread, ana
the veil which falls over her face
reaches almost to her skirt hem. After
six weeks this may be thrown pack'
when mask veil of black net, or ma
lines bordered with folds of crepe, COW
ers the face. A little later these may
resolve themselves into narrow bands
of lustreless lawn, during which time
the crepe veil hangs at the back OF
the bonnet in prim folds Fastened at
the sides with dull jet pins.
Many authorities consider the wear
ing of the cap not in accordance with
taste when the widow is young, the
line of white framing a youthful race
suggesting to the ribalminded conso-
lation to come, But for the elderly
the cap is always admired, as well as
the straight collar and Guns OF lawn
which somehow always rehder younger
women conspicuous.
FOR second mourning fashion admits
of effects which may be openly des-
ignated as coquettish. Some plain
cloth gowns worn by tall, regal-looking
women are fetching in their simplicity
and smart turbans of white crepe sport
ed by others have even gala prett-
ness. White English crepe, by the way,
10 one of fashions late fads for those
both in and out of mourning. In the
latter instance, however it is gener-
ally a sign that the wearer has only
lately emerged from the first estate,
and it is most often in the form OF
bands for evening gowns of white net
or cloth. For the theater or opera,
white cloth costumes so trimmed are
admired for young women, with stocks
as severely high and sleeves as long as
possible Indeed, in the matter of
mourning etiquette, one habit Of saw
agery remains Woman may not wear
sackcloth and ashes, but she must COW
er her body from the eyes of the world.
so to speak-drape her head with the
wimple Of woe.
The dull silks employed upon second
mourning frocks are usually in heavy
grain, the trimmings taking a more
coquettish form than those on cos
TUNES for first wear. So bias frills OF
the silk, bordered and put on with
folds, or else shirred and gathered like
any other frills, are everywhere seen
White and black undersleeves of lawn
and net appear upon numbers of these
gowns, and plain gown of white cloth
with a severe hat of white crepe il
quite serious enough, evening mourn.
ing for the youthful.
Much depends upon the cut Of these
cloth gowns, whose severity make,
them seem more suitable than fixle
garments. The long, closely-fittnl
coat must be of faultless cut, and th'
walking skirts neither toe narrow MOI