The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1903-08-09

+ cuInvated in any oth6f country,
| Rosemary is foundgalong WIN ~
mon thyme, and distilled In eolis. that
able quantities. Piesse stalss ,. .
out it, and that it is the leading lnsle
dent in Hungary water" hose. 1aa,5
/ is grown to some extent In Ehsianu'
and the oil produced alike that OF iav-
ender. is considered the best optaiiia-
BILE.
Various citrous fruits also yield per-
fumes, such as the sweet orange, .nt
bitter or Seville orange, the oe hs sn'1r
orange, the lemon, the citron, the sour
| lime, the sweet lines and the sn a
dock, pomela or grape. fruit. Inc Der
gamot and cedrate (citron) OILS, anu
the oils of lemons, lines and oranges
are obtained from the rinds OF the re-
spective fruits by mechanical metnoos.
OF the orange peel oils that OF pefga-
mot is the most valuable, but 1t IS not
easily found in the market IN a pure
state. 1t is produced mainly IN the
extreme south Of Italy, at or near
Reggie.
"A visit to the quaint shops and lab
oratories of perfume makers shows
just how little is known of this com
mon commodity, and how numerous
are the chemical formulas that must
be applied before these imprisoned
odors that travel thousands of miles
from foreign lands become the real
article that commands such respectful
financial consideration in the CONNER
cial world.
The material from which the high
grade perfume is extracted is not alto
gether unlike lard in general appear
ance and consistency. 1t is a combina-
ton of melted beef OF mutton fat and
olive oil, and comes in alright cans.
This fatty substance is laden with the
essence of whatever flower is to be re-
produced in ordor, and it then becomes
the work of the perfumer to extract
this odor by the application of spirits
to the raw material
In this process to a great extent the
success of the manufacturer lies. He
must show great skill in retaining
the odor. His chief aim is to preserve
the freshness of the flower odor and
at the same time give it a body so that
1T will be reasonably durable. This is
delicate process, for if he produces
an odor that will last too long it will
in time prove disagreeable, with the
result that an unpopular product will
be placed on the market. The value of
the odor depends altogether upon the
skill of the manufacturer in bouquet
ing" as he terms it, the delicate scents
brought to him in these large cans of
pomatum,. term applied to the raw
material on account of it's similarity
to ordinary pomades s.
There are other ways in which the
perfumer must show, equal skill. He
must know positively, the component
parts OF each flower with which he has
to deal, SO as to be able to form the
scent combinations which, after all,
are the real seat Of the great variety
of odors sought after by those who
thing well of their scent bottles"
AS a matter of fact, comparatively
few odors possess the distinctive prop
critics of any one individual flower.
Most of the long list of scents known
to the trade are produced by combina-
tons or what the manufacturer calls
bouquets. The reasons for this are
from his point of view abvious. Years
of experience and contact with the as7
sembled tastes of fastidious people
have shown him that doors are not
satisfactory to the consumer if bottled
up in their natural state, as they are
too volatile and fleeing. 10 -
Another reason for combining the
scents Of different flowers is to be
found in the desire for doors that can
not be produced from the natural BIOS
SONS, such as crab apple, plum, hello
trope and great variety of others. In
order to faithfully produce the doors Of
these flowers the manufacturer makes
a careful analysis of each, finds out it's
component parts, and then sets about
to. reproduce the odor by combining
different extracts.
A good many perfumes bearing the
name of one flower or another do not
contain one drop of that flowers fra
GRANGE. This is a little secret which
perfumers do not care to discuss, for
they have found that many persons
lose their preference for an odor when
once informed of the innocent decep-
ton.