The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1903-07-12
TRIP
THROUG H:
ONE Of INTEREST
IA
Former Turkish Possessions
Are Now the Center of Modern
European Romance Orient
al CoIoring Adds to Beauty.

Special to The Globe.
1 'CONSTANTINOPE, July 1.-THE
Servian royal murders and the threat
ened rising in Bulgaria have over
/ Swallowed other Balkan news in inter-
est recently, but only for time.
4seThes fine weather, which we are con-
tinually expecting, will leave the dis
turbing elements more opportunity for
pursuing their purposes
| When the ruff1ed waters are stirred
again it is said that the world will hear
a good deal about Scutari. At press
ent it is probably not known by name
to 10 per cent of teh people of the
United States. Scutari, by the way, is
the capital of Northern Albania. stu
ated at the southern end of the lake of
the same name and called by the
Turks Scodra
Seutari is more Oriental even than
Cohstantinople, being entirely free
from the admixture of European blood.
Scutari can be reached in two ways.
First by landing at Medua. small
| town on the Albanian coast, whence it
is an eight hours ride on horseback
over rough road. The pleasanter
way is to land at Cattaro. the last
town in Dalmatia, driving thence over
the mountains to1Cettinge and ON to
Reika, whence a9boat runs to Scutari.
There being no railways, this can best
be accomplished by easy stages, stop
ping off for the night en- route at Cat
taro and Cettinje.
Leaving Cettinje at o'clock one
lovely morning In April in carriages,
we made the descent into Reika in an
hour and half. Following the inter-
minable windings Of the road from one
side of the valley to the other, we
threaded our way between the noun
ta1ns, often along the edges of the
most awesome preeipices and round
corners which seemed to invite reck-
less leap into the unknown. But our
why little horses galIoped around
them with admirable calculation. the
Weheis rarely within an inch of the
edge, At Reika9 a picturesque little
town, the driveaAended. and we en-
parked on board caicque and were
rowed out to the little steamer
The first part of the voyage lay
through dense tracts Of water lilies.
Ehese were not yet in flower. but j
was told that some bore blossoms of a
deep scarlet. The whole length of the
lake is full of interest. Along the
western shore are numerous ruined
villages. telling their own story of
blood and destruction. The houses
seemed to consist Of one room. without
windows. Or any outlet save a small
door, and were little bigger than pig
estyes.
Here in his native haunts the pelican
ina ay s 9e seen see Wa ding at the waters edge
and on branches of a blasted oak stand.
ing partly submerged in water sat vul-
constant bloodshed Half the lake was
added to Montenegro by the Berlin treaty
n 1873 and the frontier is marked by. a
1Ireee Island nihs middle Of the lake
ern end, is grand and impressive to a de-
gree.
Mountains Are Beautiful
On the east the Prokletija range of the
Albanian Alps afford magnificent spec
OF any vegetation, their rugged peaks
capped with eternal snow, and never any
where nave seen such colors, from palest
a ense tnpogn r every shade OF rose to an
most dazzling white. Among these are
the Accused Mountains, . abhorred of
sile ,TMontenlegr1ns, rocky giants, whose
marc. Z unfeeling sides have run with the
blood of Montenegro under the hand Of
her cruel enemies. The captain pointed
out out to- to me e., the direction in which lay
!Montenegro's victory over the Turks In
1859, and also a spot where. only seven
months previously, eight men were killed
One is apt to forget the arrival in
Seutari Here we found everything ORR
entail even to Persian customs official
who smacked as much of Bagdad as of
Albania. We had ;ftvo miles to go to
reach r our hotel Our conveyance might
have served to dfSenabark the contents Of
the ark. The contents matched it, but
the Jehu was pearl To him mud ruts
and stone fences which formed the prin-
affairs. The springs of the vehicle must
have been of rubber and certainly the
entire outfit was intended for rubber pas
sengers, for at least one thirty-inch fence
went to our credit ON the trip. Between
rocks and ruts onr ribs were as sore as if
We had been beaten when the end of the
IN1Ir lnll6 Tl1w Ty.--
Soldiery, encountered en- route did not
give one high opinion of the equipment
OF the sultans army, for their uniforms
were mere collections of rags and nthe
army wagons antique vehicles slung be-
tween wheels twice as high. They were
mounted on the most miserable ponies.
Nearer the town VIE overlook strings of
pack horses ladenwith bags. their rough
Iy made iron bells changing not unmusic-
ally as they stepped along the road. Then
two-storied buildings, the upper story
invariably projecting over the lower,
while in many were the latticed windows
bespeaking. the women's apartments.
wooden mosque. closely yelled women
hurried along the unpaved streets, while
groups of men stood apart-they always
stand about or sit in Scutari, apparently
round the open shops and coffee houses
Here we saw for the first time the pecu-
black stripes running perpendicularly, and
very tight in the fit such as one sees in
some ancient Italian pictures. -
Men Wear Unique Costumes.
Many Of the men wore enormous ac-
Gordon plated petticoats Of white linen
some of which are said to contain as
much as sixty yards of material Nearly
all wore a white felt cap IN shape either
like fez or skull cap. There were the
Albanians proper, both Christian and
Mahommedan. The Turks were easily dis
tinguishable by their turbans, zouave
jackets and voluminous blue trousers,
many Of the ladies also wearing the lat
ter. The Mahommedan Albanian shaves
his, head save for one long lock at the
back, whereas the Christian wears his
hair in a flowing name to the shoulders
The Albanian Christians are, by the way.
especially in Scutari, fanatical Roman
Catholics. After a rest at the hotel we
went out at sunset to hear the Muezzin's
call to prayer from neighboring min
aret. La nlaha sillallah. Mohammed
Rasul Allah 1t CAME floating out in its
weird quarter tones. all within the inter
val of fifth. ois4sh
We certainly found Scutari as Oriental
q g n had been described There is notf1-