The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1903-07-17
COOKED EGGS IN DELMONICO'S.
kEE\ SECTIONAL CONTEST
TByED OFT ~ THE KITCHEN.
.,,dcr Vs.. Mc' ormich. or Can the south
produce Hens EGGS and Cook FIN TO
Rent the Northern Product and Treat
mentc- After DiOncr Test Indcclsi,e.


ment:. After DiDncr Test lndcclsi,e.
The greatest culinary event Dclmonico's
,,,Lau has known in years and that liz
fairly big proposition took place on
Wednesday night, when two prosperous
p,oo;lyr business men broke in on the
rhte rohed chefs and their assistants and
,,I things with eggs that French cooks
rc,pr saw done before.
Il was all tho result of having dined.
Tho Rrooklvrites had dued, and dined
rcl. and, ~ often happens when men dine,
,hov discussed things Chickens was the
6r.r ropr aud that led to eggs. Joseph
" Glider. now q South Brooklyn real es
ratio dealer, but once resident of Alabama,
was ono Of tho egg debatcrs, and John
Mccormick, dry goods merchant of 44s
rirh street Brooklyn, was the other.
.Iohn " kimhaIl and /. MiChaels, both OF
Rroollvn. were tho referees. All four had
heen before he Board of Estimate with the
south Brooklyn Board of Trade, talking
ahn,u the Sixth avenue, Brooklyn, site for
a Carnegie library, which is in dispute.
NnrhIng was decided about the library
.ro b,n it was deemed advisable to cele-
brate the event anyway with dinner at
uelmonicos.
The dIt'crence of opinion as to eggs took
tho form of u sectional issue. Mr.. Glider
j.. sr ardent champion of the Southern hen
aud her Product Mr. Mccormick heretofore
had approached the hen question as a purely
abstract proposition and had not considered
i, in connection with Mason and Dixon's
l,l l,c to It,,if mi
might perhaps he regarded as a collateral
branch of the negro question. But when
Mr.. Glider laid down the broad general
proposition that the Southern hen was n
nober bird than the Northern hen. whether
served in batter a la Maryland or simply
boiled or fried, and when he went further
and said she laid better eggs and that the
eggs were always better cooked down South
than they are up North-why, right there
Mr. Mccormick drew the line.
He maintained as a general proposition
that nobody down South knew anything
about cooking hens or hens eggs, and he
further averred that he, Mccormick, per-
sonally knew more about cooking hen's
eggs than Mr.. Glider would ever learn if
he lived to an advanced age. MIR. Glider,
on the other hand, took the ground that
Mr. Mccormick did not know an egg from
a ping-pon ball, and that If it came to an
egg-cooking contest, he, Glider, could give
M Mccormick cards and spades,
The debate was now drawn sharply on
sectional lines and Mr.. Glider and Mr..
Mccormick, in an argumentative sense,
dsentangled and separated it was decided
that the only way was to settle the matter
then and there by a grand catch-as- catch
can egg-cooking contest. BY consent Of
the management and the night chef q
ring was cleared in the kitchen, and Mr..
Glider and Mr.. Mccormick, stripped to their
shirt sleeves and equipped with aprons,
provided with four carefully measured
and weighed eggs.
Mr.. Glider was disposed to insist on
Alabama eggs, but compromised on fresh
picked Jerseys. Mr.. Kimball and Mr.
Mchaels remained upstairs to eat the eggs
as they were cooked, and that there might
be no favoritism or sectional bias in their
decision it was ruled that the contestng
cooks should remain below till the eggs
were eaten and that the referees should
not know whether 1t was the Alabama or
the Long Island chef whose eggs at any given
and his assistants stood by to see fair play
Mr.. Glider in the first round apparently
landed heavily, for he wrapped his first
egg in wet tissue paper before he put IL in
the hot wood ashes. Mr.. Mccormick
side-stepped, however, and came up jeering
with larger and hotter pile of ashes on
his egg than Mr. Glider had shown.
Both eggs went up to the referees in
turn. The Glider egg was in the nature
of custard. The Mccormick article only
needed to be round to have made an ex-
.cellent billiard ball. Honors were do
clared even on this round, and as the SEQ
ond, third and fourth set-tos produced
precisely similar results, the referees were
AZ loss how to decide. They called ii a
draw in default of airy authority to deter
nine whether eggs that were st ringy mess
were superior as culinary triumph to
eggs that were of the solidity Of Belgian
block granite. The Delmonico chef de-
clined to hand down a decision on this
beverage. They remain friends, but the
great egg cont royersy is still unsettled