Evening star., 1903-08-01
LIMIT Of ADORNMENT
Fashion Has Reached Acme of
Extravaganza.
OBSERVATION-DISCLOSURES
MONTHS OF HANDIWORK.
Lace Gowns and Wraps That Blaze
With Jewels-Other
Features.


The great modist had been displaying the
beauties of a hapd-painted chiffon drop
skirt. whose rose garlands were the work
of master hand. He dropped the outer
skirt of white chiffon, half regretfuly.
THE colors are softened." he said. but
much of the effect of the painting is lost
But why asked his practical visitor,
why not obtain the same effect, at in
fnitely less cost by using drop skirt over
a fowered organdie under the chiffon over
skirt?"
The modist shrugged his shoulders
Because, madam" he replied. nonchalant-
ly, 1T would not be extraYagant enough to
suit my customers. This dress will cost
milady a cool thousand. while the one
which you suggest would amount to the
mere bagatelle of a hundred or two. Moth
ing can be too luxurious. nothing can be too
extravagant to please the American woman
in society today
The same micrObe of extravaganza in
dress which permeates the Fashionable
world has infected every grade of society.
The American woman, whatever her sta
ton, this summer goes to the limit of her
meanS-or beyond-tO appeaSe its cravings.
To appeaSe, but not to satisfy, for even the
purse of multi-millionaire could not salts
fy. These modern CleopatraS do not dis
solve pearls of great price in their wine but
they make necessity of luxury and ignore
even the ethics Of beauty in their feverish
search for the bizarre and the unusual.
Combined EXtravagances Of Ali Ma
tions.
The American society woman of today
combines on her person the eXtraYaganceS
of all nations She shares the love of her
English sisters for feathers of all sorts.
for ostrich plumes and costly maribout
inc Sb. It91V from
Ireland from Holland and from every land
where days of ceaSelesS toll over the lace
pillow create fairylike fabrics. She thrills
with true oriental delight in barbaric jew
elry in the color play OF flashing gems and
the dull CLEAN of gold and silver orna
ments. And lastly, she has become infect
ed by the French passion for dainty dress
garnitures of silk and chiffon, for marvel
Gus hand -embroidertes and for appliques
which are the product of weeks instead of
days. In materials, in design and in work
manship the summer wardrobe of mtlady
has reached the climax of extravaganza.
Never has the picture hats been so load
ed down with sweeping ostrich plumes.
When 1t Is considered that single fine
plume costs anywhere from twenty to thlr-
ty dollars. it Is small wonder that the mil
liners bills outdistance any of their carl
catures in the comic papers The Duchess
Of Devonshire, who set the fashion OF the
Gainsborough 50 many years ago. never
conceived that the day would come when
not one such hat. but ten or fifteen, would
be- requisite. The fad for matching every
costume, however simple with especial
headgear was not then dreamed Of And.
furthermore. the fancy for shaded plumes,
which is the mistress of the moment,
doubles the cost of a feather hat
Feathers That Cost Fortunes.
Feather stoles are even more extravagant
Time was when an ostrich feather boa two
yards or more in length was considered the
height Of elegance. Its glories pale before
the luxuriance of the feather stole. This
latest creation of the millinermodiste may
be as much. as ten inches in width and
reach to the hem of the skirt. Small won
der that it's cost runs up into the hundreds
of dollars. Maribout feathers are most
often used In it's construction.
The same plumes form "a fringe or border
on some of the most elaborate of the white
coats of cloth or SILK summer ball gown
seen at Narragansett pier was of white
silk with a deep skirt hOunce Of snowy
ostrich plumes A similar trimming finish
ed the top of the decolete bodice, and a
single plume, caught in place by diamond
cabouchon. served as a hair ornament The
general effect of the costume was odd
though pleasing, and recalled the tabled
feather cloaks of the lncas and the price
less feather work of the South Sea Island
ers Its apparent simplicity was belied by
the bill which the modtste presented to its
owner who might truly be named My
Lady of Plumes.
The woman Of fashion, as she now arrays
herself is a miracle of lace from head to
foot Her hat is of lace, frilled or sh:rred
over a foundation of wire or featherboning,
and the coStlieSt varieties used in its
making Often 1t apes simplicity by a trim
ming of single lace scarf, whose long ends
fall gracefully nearly to the waistlne in
the back.
Even the veils are of lace and elaborate
lace wells have been introduced as part of
the motoring costumes, and have found
favor as picturesque dress accessory.
They made Of fine net with lace bor-
der, In chantilly and the more expensive
threads They are both long and wide, so
as to be caught in frill by the ends, which
tie In front in splurgtng bow.
Even Stockings Are of Finest Lace.
Miladys coat is OF lace. So is her dress
of a delicate robe pattern, a skillful
mingling of many varieties. Her stockings
are lace inserted and her dainty slippers
are appliqued with lace medallions and but
terflies. Y
AS to- the lace coats their number is
legion and their price mounts up almost ad
infinitum. Notwithstanding this fact, milady
must have several to scomplete her ward
robe. If not of ah-oyer lace, the founda
ton fabric whether 1t be silk, cloth or
heavy linen, Is 4Nteraily lace incrusted
When the material beHeath is cut away the
effect is delightfully."- copwebby-but at what
price? A hundred doliars for what the
modist terms a simple linen coat" while
two hundred would not cover the cost of
one of the simplest OF the silk and cloth
foundation creations.
A resourceful woman. noting the craze
for laces appeaHed with graceful lace
shawl in lieu of Al light wrap. From my
great-grandmother's trousseau," she ex-
planned proudly. But all women have not
Observation-Disclosures. or. at least, there are
no heirlooms to chronicle the fact But
these women are not to be outdone. They
also appear in lace shawls and in graceful
old ia shioned lace peierines. AS to the
price they pay for the genuine stamp Of an
tiauity, that they confide only to their
check books.
The extravagantly long cape collars and
stoles are simply another indication of the
extrayagant trend Of the times. The mod
est lace berthas. which once seemed quite
correct. now appear scanty and Inadequate.
Expense-expense. and still more expense!
The same extravaganza Is evinced In the
widths of the lace insertions and edgings.
Lace landings Of from FIVE to ten inches in
width and wide lace nouncings have almost
entirely superseded the narrower patterns.