The San Francisco call., 1903-12-20

fancy for emcroidering these heavy
cotton waists has driven out the open
work fad, for on the contrary there are
more waists trimmed with openwork
than ever. A great many Of these have
lace pieces set In, with the foundation
cut out beneath the lace, while others
have the lace applied and little hem
stitching is used around each lace piece.
Wheels of Indian manufacture can be
bought and applied to the yokes OF
waists, while, for the nicer waists, the
Mexican thread wheels are ideal.
The wash waist goes beautifully with
all The separate skirts, and the fact
that it comes in all colors makes it one
of the most desirable dress adJuncts Of
the season.
The open canvas materials. while
they look very thin, come heavily
lined. or so arranged that they are worn
over heavy lining. They are, for the
most part, in cream color; and the ma
ture of their weave is such that they
admit of the most elaborate needle
work Roses, Armenian patterns and;
.Assyrian designs can all be worked in
the criss-cross mesh of this cream col
ored canvas.
Christmas Belt and Stock.
If you want to give or make your
girl friend Christmas present Of a
belt or a stock, with or without the
shirt waist, you cannot do better than
study the new fashions in these articles
before venturing forth, for it is fact
that these have so greatly changed in
the last few months as to be scarcely
recognizable.
A stock made of calf skin, with the
red hair of the calf left on, was nov
city recently seen. This crossed in the
back, while the straps came around
to the front and fastened under har-
ness buckle. Another leather stock
was made Of morocco of the same de-
sign 1t was round and straight and
the ends of the straps slipped through
each other in the back and were buck
led in the front in very neat fashion.
A great many of the new stocks are
of the twice around" variety and con-
sist of a very long canvas strip, which
is passed twice around the neck and
knotted in front. The most approved
knot shows one end passed in under
the other, while both ends fall to the
waist, in over-and-over style.
Then there are the very dainty made
and-stitched bishop stocks, with varia-
tions, one Of which has a turnover
edge with space for ribbon to be run
under. Another shows the ends COM
ing together in the front with button.
1t is a fact that women particularly
like the neat, stiff neck 1xings and for
that reason the linen collar with the
ribbon stock continues in favor. 1t Is
possible now to buy these ribbon stocks,
made In layers OF silk, with a knot Of
silk in the front, the whole intended for
wearing with a stiff linen collar
The linen stocks that are round in the
front and fastened in the back are-seen
a great deal. The back is closed invis-
ibiv. while the front has two or three
points, one overlapping the other, with
a button in the center.
All Of these linen stocks afford ample
opportunity for hand work, and so can
be made up into charming little
Christmas testimonials.
The Question Of a Belt.
The belt question is one that worries
woman from season to season and from
day to day. A belt is SO essential to
shirt waist. yet so difficult to manage.
If narrow, it must not be too narrow to
cover the skirt band, and If wide It must
not be wide enough to disfgure the
waist line.
The narrow belts are very becomingly
made of patent leather and Of rough