The daily morning journal and courier., 1903-12-05
PARIsIAN GOWNS.
How They Are Made in Fashions Gen.

How They Are Made in Fashions Gen. ter.
 | There is an extensive use of plain
 cloth on fancy wools. This style of trimming may be made to suit a severe
 tailored morning gown, or elaborated with the addition of embroidery. A gown of heavy wool in mixed shades of dull green is trimmed with a cut-out pattern of light green cloth, appIiqued with fancy silks. This is made up in
 one Of the close skirts that many | French women are ordering, in spite of the fact that all advice is in a contrary | direction. There is a deep yoke, orna- | mented lightly with the trimming, and from this hangs the skirt in broad side plaits, stitched down almost to the bot ] tom. The trimming is carried about
 the bottom of the skirt, running up on
 the plaits.
 1 Another example of the use of plain
 cloth as a trimming is on a skirt and 1 jacket suit of mixed dark red and black
 check. Really, nothing is more fash
 ionable than these mixed or finely l checked cloths. In this case the trim
 ming consists of pattes of plain red
 cloth, embroidered lightly on the edges with little gold and black braid. The skirt is made in three parts, slashed at intervals, with a patte heading the slashings. On the jacket the pattes are on the choker and down the front.
 An original long garment is of thick gray zibeline, trimmed with gray cloth that is embroidered in most original fashion. This embroidery is done in heavy stitching of yellow, green and royal purple. and the design is Egyp- tian in effect, consisting of long lines ending in small, conventionalized leaves. There are pattes of this down the front and the big cape sleeves have the inside seam trimmed in the same
 way. There is a collar, with long stole ends, of the embroidered cloth, edged with gray astrakhan, and also a mar
 row, turnover fur collar.
 The smartness of many winter suits
 rests on use of black mohairs braid.
 The closely woven, very shiny variety
 is attractive and often used as foun- dation for other trimming. Another style is wide galoon of loosely woven meshes effective over colored lining. A dark green zibeline, with black surface, is trimmed with a wide braid of this sort laid over bright green silk.
 Small rows of trimming made of three strands are used to border the wide braid in 8 little pointed pattern. This
 is used in up and down lines on the skirt, and in the same way on the bod ice, which "blouses" over the belt all about.
 Some of the mohair braids have col- ored or gold threads. A black braid in which gold is used is charmingly made up with black cloth in the form of a paletot reaching well below the hips. The garment is plaited in front and in the back with lines of the braid be- tween the plaits, and these are met by crossway lines about the bottom of the coat running in and out of the braid and plaits. There is the same effect over the shoulders. In front and in the middle of the back the bottom of the garment is cut into little points to fin- ish the lines of braid. The choker is original. It is high and straight in the back and descends in three little steps to nothing In front. It is trimmed with little hanging metal ornaments.-New York Tribune. .--.s