The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-05-24

ness than is usual in American trousers.
so that there has evidently been certain
amount of slope in the cut. ABOVE the
knee the fullness does not develop greatly.
The test of a good pair of trousers is this:
that they should look narrow when the
wearer stands up, and show no bulge at his
shins; but he must be able to sit down
without causing a strain, or the least
crease, over the thighs. And If this isn't
pretty good rule for trousers in general
don't know what is. / notice that pat
tern of trousers-press which is being much
used by London men as an alternative to
having their trousers ironed by the valet
has led TO nearly every pair OF trousers one
meets in west end drawing rooms being
creased high up the thigh. This is a mere
ly fortuitous popularity of the present sea-
son. The correct way to crease trousers is
to let the crease gradually vanish at about
couple of inches above the knee, and to
this We shall no doubt presently come
back, especially when observant men get
on to the fact that the use of trouser-
presses rapidly makes shiny streak all
the way down the side seams. 1t is quite
possible that trousers cut in straighter
style will grow fashionable about May or
June; but as to this l will not pledge my
self to a decided opinion.
EVENING DRESS.
Turning now to evening dress, there is
little that is new to record. The trousers
are cut rather more ''easy' than daytime
trousers; the knee measurement. for ord-
nary figures, about half the seat measure.
The white waistcoat Of the season is made
of a figured mercerized cotton drill, with
pearl buttons. 1t is double-breasted and
opens low. The coat is to the knee. and
the trousers may (but need not necessarily
have a row of braid down the outer seam.
The most interesting development of the
season indeed is not in full dress at all,
but in lounges. Check-pattern cheviots are
the leaders in all ordinary lounges-by
1T A1l-1 w..Nt @afG n0ll
intended for outing use The pattern is
generally small and not at all loud. Over
IL runs Il square line. very narrow, of ruby
red. not conspicuous, but warming up the
whole effect TO wonderful degree, consid-
ering that the squares it forms are not
much less than two inches long a rule.
But these new cheviots have another char
acteristic
They are noticeably bright in surface, and
when / came to pick them to pieces L
found that they had considerable inter-
mixture of fine threads of silk Now, a very
little silk makes a great difference in the
surface effect of a cloth, and the result
here is both agreeable and striking. Jacket
suits are cut all from one cloth. The
Jacket itself is single-breasted with for
ward fronts and small-round corners. At
the neck the opening is moderate and the
lapels small. The waistcoat, single-breast-
ed like the coat, is collarless The trousers
are cut on the same plan as those which go
with a frock coat.
For outing purposes, which at present
means practically only golf, waved home
spuns and heather mixtures in Harris
tweed are the prevalent fashion. Such suits
are cut quite differently from lounges. The
jacket has fully rounded corners. cut back
nearly as much as the old style. There
are patch pockets, and double-breasted
waistcoat. The leg wear is Knockers, with
plain ends: but a pair of trousers is often
made with the same suit, and cut looser
and straighter than with the other jacket
suit. A golfing cap to match is always
THE WING COLLAR.
The wing collar is still growing in public
favor; no doubt the influence of the Prince
of Wales, though he is by no means a
leader of fashion, has something to do with
it, The way In which this collar is making
itself most conspicuous is In the evening
dress department. A wing collar. with
points blunted to a small-round corner, is
almost the only collar seen at night on
really fashionable men. In the daytime
this collar has not made nearly as much
progress. though one sees plenty of wing
collars of the ordinary shape Now that
Jackets are being worn in town, there is
an opportunity to assign a position to the
double collar, which. month or six weeks
ago, looked like vanishing altogether. 1t
has decidedly held There is little
alteration in its shape and height-2A
inches is a common size, while the fronts
are upright, and have rounded corners. The
cravat worn with this collar is nearly al
ways a wide-ended knot, which, being un-
lined, ties TO a small barrel; but this beau
tiful material silk crepe, in single color.
and in the straight stringtie shape, Is still
very much in vogue Spitalfelds is a era
vat material that seems to be increasing in
acceptance. 1t is modifying itself a little,
under pressure from the neckwear houses,
and can be had in lighter weights than
foremrly. Loose-ended knots of a small
size are now in demand. of which 1t is pos
sble to cut four from a square, with lit
tie ingenuity, so that the price comes down
somewhat. Large wide-end cravats are
much worn, being tied after the fashion of
an escot but with the aprons crossed high
UP, so that little or no barrel is seen.
These are generally worn with bur-
nished gold safety-pin; knots are worn
without any pin, as is most proper.
The newest thing in cravats. however, is
the Roman tie which few shops are ex-
hibiting. This is perfectly straight piece
of ribbed silk. fifty-three inches long and