The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1903-10-31
LIFE IN CHILL.
HIGH-TONED BoMBEROS AND
WHITE-GOWNED PENITENTES

Great Work at FIres-CeIebratIon of
the Arrival of New Fire Engine at
Conception.
Especial Correspondence of the Journal
and Courier.)
Valparaiso, Chill, September 80, 1903.
I believe it was in the year 1536-that
Don Juan Saareda-a Spaniard famous
! for nothing else-eaptured this locality
from the aborigines. He laid it out in
/ three separate towns, and named them
respectively Eel Puerto" (the Port),
lei Almendral' and 'St. John of Cod"
but had them christened in the lump, so
| to speak, under the general title of
| Val-Paraiso-''Vale Of Paradise" That
portion anciently called FL Puerto is
the only level part of the city and COM
prises all the business quarter, which
until recently consisted of one long,
struggling street, close to the beach.
: The hills, dedicated to San Juan de Dios,
/ which now comprise most of the resi-
dence portion, vary in height from one
thousand to fourteen hundred feet.
1 Nothing can be more exhilerating than
an early morning or sunset canter over
those breezy heights, along the new
road that has been cut out of solid rock,
away up on the steep precipices that
face the bay. One day we went on foot
to the top of the tallest hiss, where in
! time of peace signal-staff gives notice
of approaching vessels. Up and up we
climbed, by a winding pathway, part
wooden stairs, part stone pavement at
a sharp incline and slippery as glass;
turning now to the right, now to the
left, according to the zigzag trail, cling
ling to the iron railing that partially pro-
teets the path as it rounds the cape Of
some mans garden; while a brisk
breeze turned our sunshades wrong side
out and threatened to serve our gar
ments in the same manner. At length
we were compelled to- sit down on the
stairs, ostensibly because so charmed
with the scene below, but in reality
from lack of breath to carry us another
Istep. Just then handsome Chilena,
tripped past trailing a black velvet
gown weighted with pounds of jet
beads, yet looking unwearied and fresh
as a rosebud in June But she lives up
there and is used to 1t, and that makes
lall the difference in the world, you
know A boy with hundred-foot lad
| der might climb from the Puerto"
straight up into her back yard in three
minutes time, while to reach her front
door she must wind around the hills a
mile or more. Almost any resident of
this part of town could easily surprise
his nearest neighbor by slipping off his
own porch and landing on the latter's
roof; and if a child should happen to
| fall from the window Of many house,
he would bring up ON the stone
paved street, five hundred feet below.
But the glorious view is worth climbing
| for. There are beautiful hills, rising one
above another, dancing cataracts and
majestic mountains there is the cres-
lcent-shaped bay without a ripple upon
! its FURNISHED surface, its ships notion
less as sheeted ghosts, and its rolling
tide washing the crap rocks at our feet
l-aH combining to produce an effect of
profound peacefulness. Viewed from
this altitude, the streets in the level
portion of the town look insignificant,
but their vast array of red-tiled roofs
make a pleasing picture. The houses
are mostly three-storied, with their
thick walls plastered to represent stone.
| Spanish American architecture; though
different from anything found at the
north, has its beauties and advantages
among the latter may be mentioned the
important fact that the houses are hard
| to burn. Roofs of earthen tiles inbed-
Ode in dry mud, are extremely pictur-
esque, especially in these moist sections,
where their dull red surface soon takes
ON coating of moss and lichens.
should a fire originate in the rafters, or
/ in the boards and sheeting beneath, it
would so out of its own accord after
they were burned away, because the
heavy mud covering, falling in, would
effectually smother the confiagration.
BY the way, one of the institutions of
Chill most conspicuous for it's oddity is
the fire department. All natives are
compelled by law to serve as Bomberos
| (firemen), or in the militia. and as most
1sof the swell young men prefer the for
mer, the fire companies resemble clubs,
or similar social organizations, and are
Icliqued according to the strictest rules
lof cast. It is intensely funny to see the
Bomberos out on drill, which is made
the occasion for a stunning display of
smart uniforms Of white linen glittering
niekle- plated helmets; and funnier still
to see them at a fireexcept for those
whose property is being destroyed. The
gorgeous Bomberos We're never known
to put out fire, but their efforts, when
they condescend to make any, are
merely directed to checking it's spread
by deluging adjacent houses, thereby
generally accomplishing quite as much
damage by water as is done by the fire.
1t is not uncommon for some nearby
i merchant whose stock in trade would
be hopelessly ruined if the firemen were
allowed their own reckless way to pay
sums Of money to the chiefs of the
companies to induce them to turn the
/ hose in another direction; or, failing in
that to lock doors and windows and
stand in front with drawn revolvers to
1 keep the destructive bonberos at bay.
The alarm system is so arranged by the
/ ringing of bells that those who under
stand it can instantly locate the scene
of disaster. Occasionally the Bomberos
succeed in getting there, engine and all,
before building is quite consumed.
They mostly ride up in carriages and
4