Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-03-14
ARE AGAIN \! VOGUE
Shirt Waist Suits Continue
in Favor.
FOUND CON VENIENT
EVERYTHING DEPENDS ON THEIR
LINES AND SIMPLICITY.
Buttons and Pipings Are the Approx
ed Finish-Severe Hats,
Also.
FOUND CON YEMEN T
Written for The Evening Star

Despite the efforts of modiSteS to throttle
It and the wailing of faddists that it lacks
elegance Of line, the shirt waist suit re-
turns to- the fashion field for the summer
season. Since it is decreed that the inde-
pendent skirt and the shirt waist are not
good form, the shirt waist suit is distinct
compromise. It shows the same material
for both skirt and waist, yet has all the
advantages of the individual waist. Certain
it is that the shirt waist has spoiled the
average American woman, and for comfort,
freedom and jauntiness 1t holds perma-
nent place in her affections and her ward
robe.
The shirt waist suit is no respecter of
persons. 1t appeals to all classes of dress
ers. The woman whose wardrobe is limited
only by her desires finds use for it, and the
woman whose means are limited finds 1t
Invaluable for what she calls second best
wear.
Last summer the shirt waist suit was
considered quite smart for the early morn
ing drive at Newport and other fashionable
resorts where cottagers gather. In fact,
the truly fashionable, plainly decried, fancy
apparel for morning wear, and even at the
casino morning concerts, trinity made shirt
waist suits were seen. They were pro-
nounced just the thing for wear when maxi
Ing ones morning round of the shops, while
at the ocean resorts where boardwalks ex-
list they were most popular for the morn
ing constitutional
In the city they are exceedingly good for
shopping wear as the spring merges into
summer, and the girls who aim at sim
plicity in dress for ehurch-going wear
them to vesper services, particularly in the
suburbs.
The success Of a shirt waist suit depends
upon its simplicity, it's lines and its fit.
The ready-made suits have an admirable
finish, but they must be selected with care
IL;
much fullness at the waist line, the puck
ering, however slight, of side seam; the
variation of so much as a quarter Of an
inch around the bottom of the skirt, will
chief beauty Of the suit. The very absence
Of trimming makes the set Of the gown all
important. There is absolutely nothing to
distract the attention from the lines
Making at Home.
Because Of their simplicity the shirt
waist suits appeal to the home dressmaker,
but If she is wise, she will attack the work
with the utmost care, giving particular at
tention to the hang of the skirt and the
finishing touches on waist and skirt, such
as piping, straps, buttons, etc.
The skirt should flare slightly but never
train. Skirt and waist should be carefully
attached by generous use Of hooks and
eyes, and the belt matching the suit should
be narrow and shapely pointed in the front.
She who would wear belt Of contrasting
color and finish should bear in mind that
this sharp contrast will tend to shorten her
figure and detract from the general effect
in the back, where a gown should sweep
from the nape of the neck to the hem Of
the skirt in one long, graceful line.
A Pongee Season. "
For the spring Of 1908 pongee leads all
materials for shirt waist suits and comes
in myriad weights, qualities and prices.
The oriental shops carry a line that is
lbrous and tough and that will wear prac-
tically forever. 1t is rougher in finish than
the domestic pongees, but more striking,
more characteristic and more Individual
The oriental finish lends itself to the odd
embroidery which Is SO popular this year.
A striking gown recently finished for a
brunette shows a skirt with a pronounced
flare, the front embroidered in roses in
Japanese colorings. Only in the Japanese
mind do blue roses exist but these are en-
broidered in heavy, lustrous silks, cunning
ly combined with olive greens. The yoke
of the blouse Is embroidered in the same
way. The effect on the dull, natural color
ed pongee is decidedly oriental, and not in
any way to be COMPOUNDED with the Ameri-
can Beauty or old-fashioned cabbage roses
which remind one Of pincuShiOnS and
screens.
Another waist shows pleat embroider-
ed in Chinese letters.
The smooth finished pongees and Indian
orally with a contrasting coler, particular
ly In a rich, regal cardinal.
A pretty pattern showed shaped founce
Joined to the skirt by piped band finish
ed with rings Of cardinal silk. The waist
was Of simple Shirt waist design, with two
box pleats down the front, each piped with
cardinal. The sleeve had a puff piped with
red, and a narrow cuff finished after the
same fashion. Collar shoulder straps and
belt were also piped, and small cardinal
buttons were used on the pleats and the
collar. The shoulder straps were finished
with cardinal rings.
Foulard a Favorite.
Foulard comes next to pongee in desira-
bility. 1t Is fully as dressy, If less faddish
for this year. Dark blue with white fig
ure, cream ground with a royal blue fig
ure, and black and white in hundreds OF
combinations are the favored designs for
shirt waist suits. The lighter colors lend
themselves to more elaborate costume de-
signs. The fad for green, which had so
heavy a run last year, seems on the wane.
Many beautiful combinations of red and
cream are shown. These are excellent for
spring wear, but look too warm for hot
weather.
None Of the best shops show lace on the
foulard shirt waist suits. Straps and but
tons with piping form the trimming, which
Is rather severe. A most satisfying fouiard.
in blue and white of peculiar 'wavy pat
tern, is made with plain skirt, except for
horizontal straps. The first is about five
inches from the waist line, and the second
an inch or more below. The points OF these
straps rest on the seams, and give the effect
Of skirt yoke.
The blouse Is laid in two-inch tucks. run
ming across the front, and the opening Is
hidden by stole-shaped collar. The piping
Is in white. and the buttons are OF blue SILK,
finished with fine white silk braid.
With this was a turnover collar, which
deserves particular mention. It was or
white nainsook in an open pattern, the
front a single medallion, which completely
covered the silk collar beneath. and showed
an embroidered cupid waving love knots OF
ribbon. These long, narrow; single medal
lions are much used to finish off the new
turnover collars. which gain daily in size
and elaboration.
The Checked Silks,
Black and white checked silks come third
on the list. They were exceedingly smart
last summer. which fact Will initiate some
what against their popularity this year.
They are being turned out In large num-
bers by the manufacturers OF ready-to-
wear garments. and 1t Is therefore neces-
sary to save them from commences by
distinction In cut, hang and trimming.
checked suit unless made with Infinite
care. will be poorly matched and show de-
fective lines: hence. its fate hangs on the
care exercised in the first cutting and fit
H.