The Washington times., 1903-05-17

~ OATS and wraps to match gowns
are as fashionable as eyer
this season, and yet never
before this year was it necessary
TO have so many wraps and coats
that in themselves are separate gar
ments and can be worn with any gown.
Made of different material, often of an
entirely opposite color, and in them
selves complete. they yet seem as If
they were part of whatever gown they
are worn with. This fashion has at one
bound attained surprising popularity
Apparently shapeless as are all the
wraps and coats of the moment. with
the exception of the severe tailor made
variety that goes with the short skirt,
they are in reality more carefully fitted
and shaped. and in spite of apparently
hiding every line and Disgusting the fig
ure. they really bring out every good
point. If a woman be tall and have
broad shoulders, her height and breadth
are accentuated-that is. the desirable
breadth. If she be short and stout, the
sloping shoulders and the trimmings will
be arranged to make her slender in spite
of herself. Most cleverIy will the extra
fullness in the front of the cloak which
is worn by the tall slender woman be
done away with, while the same effect
of being loose and not fitting at all is
still carried out The eye is caught by
the long lines of trimming, which give
ance
All light colors are tremendously pop
ular-so popular that it is safe to pre-
dict that in a few months at latest dark
colors will be in again. But for the
moment light tans. ivory white. cham
payne color, gray, pale blue, pale green
pale red. and even light shade of pink,
are in favor, and in these same shades
are made up smart and attractive coats
and cloaks. Cords and tassels of passe-
menterie, dyed to match the material
exactly, are used in connection with
heavy lace and heavy embroidery or are
deemed sufficient as trimming with the
addition of a narrow velvet collar and
revers. velvet with a polka dot of white
being preferred and a plain color. or
II.
with polka dot OF white Last years
fashion of pongee or India silk in pale
green. blue or red, embroidered with
heavy linen thread in a design of grapes
and Leaves, is still fashionable, but is
not SO new or smart as some of the
other embroideries: The newest are
made of the basket weave of Madras
linen-white, blue, pink, or yellow
heavily braided with a fine white SOU
tache braid. In themselves the mate
rails for this embroidery are inexpen-
sive. but the work. to meet the stamp
of approval, must be done by hand, and,
consequently. this is never an mex
pensive trimming, although perfectly
possible for even an amateur to turn
out.
The length of the coats varies consid-
erabIy. The so-called three quarter
length-so long that it reaches almost
to the hem of Jhe skirt-and the length
that comes only 10 a little below the
waist are both considered smart. But
the long three-quarter is considered the
smartest of all and is more becoming,
for when coat or wrap of this descrip-
ton is too short it makes too much
fullness without the lines being long
enough TO modify that fullness
The accordion-pleated cloth and chiffon
when first seen in Paris five summers
ago, and are made without any trim
ming, but are not so good for carriage
o.o~o-~OO.co~oo-~O~D
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