The Birmingham age-herald., 1903-02-08
sssss For The Home DreSsmaker. 'sSs- 'sSSss-

feet great saving of cloth. For the cuffs cut q strip to match the wrist edge of sleeve.
 as dotted in diagram 1, and in putting them on turn them upside down so that the upper edge will stand out little. As Italian cloth is ffty-four inches wide, the fronts are only required to meet the inner edges of the cloth facings, and as it is not necessary to line the upper capes, one yard will suffice.
 The sleeve lining must be cut to match the cloth, but the back should be little wider at the top corner and exact at the lower one, so as to allow plait in the lining at the middle of the neck
 To Make the Coat.-Carefuily mark all the seam lines on the wrong side of both cloth and lining, using piece of tailors' chalk. which will make quite thin, firm line, tack 1t with white thread.
 Next tack up the seams and try on the garment, and be sure, If any alteration is made, to see that both sides exactly agree, and remark them for the stitching, which next do Notch the seam edges at inter- vals, cutting them santwise, and we'll press them, dampening the seam by placing a
 finger In warm water and passing 1t along in front of the iron; also stitch and press the lining seams.
 Next lay the front faeings to the cloth, right sides meeting, and stitch them to- SctutI Ut the 1r0Ut anu lOWer cages WlIQ a small turning. Carefully cut off the corner of the turnings, so when both are folded up- ward they will not overlap; then turn it right side out and tack and press 1t so that the seam is exactly on the edge and nice and sharp. Tack back the facing and make the buttonholes, or If not an expert, leave these, and when all else is finished get tailor to make them and give the coat a final pressing.
 Next make the sleeves and the cuffs. stitching the latter as many times as de- sired. After facing them stitch the wrist edges of cuff and sleeve together, turn them under and herringbone the raw edges to the cloth. If the cloth is at all thin French canvas should be placed under the front facings and in the wrist edges, but any of the kinds quoted will not require it. the stitching being sufficient.
 Next place the sleeve lining in and hem the wrist edges but turn the top ones down out of the way of the armhoe seam, which make in the cloth only. Press the seam open, notehlng the one that requires it to make it lie fiat, then tack the lining on the coat taking great care to make 1t easy to the cloth, and not forgetting the plait taper ing off to nothing down the back. Then tack the armhole edge of the lining along the opened seam and hem the sleeve one over it.
 slip hem all the outer edges over those of the cloth turned under. Where these ire left raw the stitching will hold them to- gether down the front and the lower edge of the lining must be slip hemmed to the back surface of the cloth only. To make the capes, If raw edged, the foregoing will apply and judgment must be used to decide if fac ing be necessary. Where the edges are turned under it is better to do this with taeking thread, cutting away the corners of the turn jugs and neatly drawing the raw edges to- gether so that they will be quite fiat, using silk thread to match the color of the cloth for the purpose, then slip hem the lining over them.
 1t Is better to join the top cape tor collar, to the neck of the coat, but the others may either be made neat by binding them to- gether with silk binding and hooking to the by means of clasp hooks and eyes, or they may be stitched to the coat just be- low the neck edge cam. The neck seam will be made neat by the lining edge. or, if at all thick, by hemming the strip of silk binding over the turnings.