The Spokane press. [volume] (Spokane, Wash.) 1902-1939, 1903-08-05
RkXY7ER REDNRNN

L
bio women like to have II believed
that they pay enormously for every
thing they wear. the average prices
paid for their dresses In Paris is
$3.50, and many will not go beyond
500, at the best dressmakers.
Redfern is the great specialist for
outdoor and tailor. made dresses
that is. so-called tailor-made dresses
for Redfern has never allowed a
man in his cutting department. and
says he owes to this the success of
his creations. since women under
stand woman's form far better than
a man can understand it. be he ever
SO clever with his shears. Redfern
was the first to introduce dresses
embroidered by hand, which requiring
simple material for a background.
caused a reaction against the inclin-
-ation to wear only rich materials
Poynter Redfern. the present head
of the Paris establishment, and it's
branches in England and America.
has made several notable Innovations
in dress. 1t was he. for instance.
who created the holero. some is years
ago. for an actress at the Vaudeville
THE idea" says Mr.. Redfern. was
suggested to me by the Elton boys,
jacket. but from the developments
it has since undergone in every way.
the Elton boy would I fear. not sus-
pect it now" Another innovation
of Redfern's was long sleeves for
dinner dresses
Doucet appeals to an exclusive cli-
entele composed of the cream of the
customers of the other well-known
establishments. Every woman now
adays must have at least one Doucat
gown If she aspires to occupy any
rank in the social world. Doucet has
no particular speciality save excep-
tional refinement and perfect taste
in everything that he does. and these
are perhaps the most desirable spe-
cialities of all. He disiikes fiaring
materials and elaborate trimmings.
concentrating his attention on fines
ness of material. an elegance of cut
and a perfection of fit which allow
his creations to be recognized any
where.
Quite the contrary are the prin-
cipies of Paquin. who seeks intricacy
of decoration. often to the point OF
overlooking. There is always some
thing fiashy about a Paquin dress
which makes 1t delight the heart of
a demi- mondaine. while not always
pleasing the most fastidious eye of
the real society woman.
I.n
makers and in the front rank. al
though his speciality IS rurs. is Grun-
waldt. who was the first to treat
fur as a material. making of 1t entire
dresses. The natural consequence of
this innovation was another due to
the same man. that is, fashion In
furs. Before all good furs had been
good. and fur cloaks underwent little
or no change In shape from year to
year. Now. furs vary capriciously
like other materials. both in respect
to kind and mode Of confection. Still
another innovation of Grunwaldt's
was plating fur like cloth, and sOme-
times ironing 1t into the most intri-
cate and beautiful designs. The most
startling innovation OF all. however.
IL that reserved by Grunwaldt for
next season. namely. trimming fur
cloaks with embroidery and lace, Just
as was formerly done with velvet
cl0aks. The effect Is strange In its
newness but nevertheless very fine.
Fur cloaks next year will be worn
without collars. simply gathered in
at the neck and finished or by a boa
OF costly fur. If you wish to be in
the height OF fashion, you must have
for this purpose a Siberian black
fox. price $4,000.
II is a singular fact that IL Is on
the American and English custom
that the great Paris dressmakers
depend chiefly, and Partisan society
women themselves. noted for their
dress. prefer as a rule to go to small
or establishments. conducted by for
mer forewomen of one of the great
men. These women add their per-
sonai taste to the experience gained.
and thus give touch to the limited
number OF dresses supplied by them,
which enables a society woman to
have a style completely her own 80
long as her dressmakers name IL ig-
nored by everyone. The secret Is
thus jeaiously guarded. and when a
Parisienne is trying to obtain some
exceptional favor from a friend. she
seys. as II offering a signal reward
III you do. I'll tell you the name OF
my dressmaker."