Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-03-12
END OF SNAIL. SEASON.
Year by Year -Fheir" Consumption In
creases-Most of Them From France.

From the New York Tribune.
With this month the snail trade closes
until the chill of next autumn's first frost
Like oysters, they are not edible after their
shells open. and those who dote upon the
succulent little morsels are bemeaning their
enforced deprivation. For the last fifteen
years the demand in this country has
steadily increased. At the height OF the
season 1t amounts to between fifty thou
sand and seventy-five thousand week.
twenty thousand of these being consumed
in New York city and almost as many more
in New Orleans Practically all of them
come from Burgundy and the Bordeaux
district, France. A quantity of snails is
consumed in England and other European
countries. but they are raised there for
home consumption only.
Snail feasts are held in many rural dis
tricts as soon as the early frosts have
driven the little creatures into their spiral
homes and the tiny white doors are sealed
across the opening. Before that they are
thin and 1eathery. but the moment they
stop disporting on the green grape leaves
and compose themselves for the winters
long nap they get fat and juicy.
The edible variety lives wholly on the
grape leaf, and are designated as escargots
die vignes. Old vineyards are often given
over to their culture, as they prove a more
lucrative export than wine.
or late years snails have been extensively
used as diet for consumptives, the mu-
cous substance of which the snail is COM
posed having been discovered to be capable
of rapidly supplying the, wasted tissue.
Preferably, for this purpose, they are taken
raw, in their own liquid, but for those who
value their lives, but not at such a price,
they may be eaten after having been
scalded in hot milk. For expectation to
this country they are packed in straw, saw
dust or bran, anything to prevent the chip
ping or crushing OF the shells. and shipped
In bags and baskets. which are kept con-
stanuy on ice during transportation. A
half hours warmth would cause every lit
tie door to swing back and every little
horned head to peep inquiringly out to
see If spring had really come. In this
event the slightest movement Of the bag
or basket would mean general massacre
and the loss Of many dollars. The whole
restaurants 80 cents a dozen. They are
usually served as "burre descargots,"
which means that they have been taken
out Of the shells, the head taken off
it all that is not edible about the tiny
physique), and then, plus butter, condi-
ments, spices and oils, returned to the shell
again. Specially designed platters, with
little circular depressions, are used to serve
these snails and they are eaten with snail
spoons, a sort of hinged, clawlike affair for
holding the shell, and fork on the order of
a nutpick, for drawing the little creature
out from its house.
Snafls are also used as a salad. For this
they are parboiled and served ice-cold with
ordinary SALAD dressing. One Frenchwo-
man who delights in the flavor Of this dish
says. however, that she always partakes of
1t with her eyes shut. Another, the wife of
an epicure who considered an appetite for
snails the foundation of all culture could
never be induced to taste them. Bewailing
this detection Of his wife one day to NJ
Moquin, the latter undertook to accomplish
the desired result. Some days later the over
fastidious wife walked into the restaurant
and wanted to know what they had that
was new. Roman scallops," replied NJ.
Moquin promptly, with wink to the
waiter; the most delicious morsels you
ever put in your mouth. If you will allow
me I will just sit here and have a plate
with you Snails were served and the
oVer-fastidious woman found them delec-
table, and could not say enough in praise
of the new Roman scallops." When how
ever, some hours later she learned the hu-
initiating truth from her triumphant
spouse she is reported to have promptly
fallen i'll, saying. that she had "felt like
death" ever since eating 1.-The Shiny things"