The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1903-12-27
EXTREMES MEET
ON THE FUR HATS
OF THE NEW YEAR
BY HARRIET HAwLEY.

feather hat, the other the fur one.
The latter seems the more appropri-
ate to the crisp weather which usu-
ally ushers in the New Year. at least
that is what milady seems to think,
judging from her purchases.
MY work has been doubled this sea-
son." said the buyer for great MILL
merry establishment. ITO my thorough
knowledge Of the millinery needfuls
of other years I have had to add an
understanding of fur qualities and val
ues. We have had to engage a special
designer to assist in the evolution of
the fur hat, and have hired several
experienced fur operators"
The result has certainly justified the
outlay of time and thought. The fur
hats are charming creations, and are
decidedly the reigning fad of the mo-
ment.
Perhaps the greatest charm of fur
is its adaptabilit for almost every sort
of occasion. The small toque of dark
hued fur is eminently correct for morn
ing wear, while the plume loaded err
mine fiat gives the finishing touch of
elegance to the evening toilette.
But the most striking feature of
these fur hats is not the fur itself, but
it. Gauzy lace is edged with fur, and
winter and summer meet on the fur
hat, which is rose wrea thed. There
seems no limit to the combinations
which are being worn, each with the
sanction of good taste. They are die
tated by the desire to attain individu-
atty, and they do not fail of their OBJ
ject.
Moleskin is a close rival of ernine
in he GaIH
wear it can be even said to have at
tanned the superiority.
A pretty moleskin hat is built some
what on the lines of an old-fashioned
joke, though with a more decided front
flare. The soft fur furnishes a pretty
background for the face, whether it
be young or old. The under brim has
no further adornment. But the crown
and outer brim seems at first glance
a chaos of fur lace and feathers. Closer
inspection reveals the meter of the
creation. Cream lace has been artis-
tically appliqued on the fur, and in
the nest SO formed rest several small
black and white birds. They are of
variety which never flew on sea
or land, but they look marvelously
in place on the soft gray fur. The
brim fits snugly TO the hair in the
back, provided it is worn low, after
the prevailing fashion.
Mink is a fur that has perennial
popularity. That and sable are always
correct, however the tides of popular
fancy ebb and flow. Just as long as
mink accords well with a certain shade
OF bronze brown hair, just so long it
will be born by certain damsels.
Coarse mesh wool lace is used for
the crown of a stylish mink touue
These heavier laces seem more fitted
for fur combination than the more
filmy weaves and are much in demand.
The rolling brim is bent in something
OF the three-corner effect, and is orna-
mented on either side of the front by
two small real animal heads. The lace
Of the crown extends slightly over this
brim, thus giving the needed color
contrast. The only other trimming is
cluster Of small fur tails at the back.
1t is noticeable that the fur hats are
simply trimmed. A cluster of flowers,
single plume, or a bit of lace applique
are the approved ornaments. PERHAPS
1t is a reaction from the over trimming
of the spring and summer. Perhaps the
richness of the fur does away with the
desire for further display. In either
case, the result is artistic
A recent window display was plac-
arded Under the Reign of King Err
mine" The application was not in
apt, for the window showed a bewild-
ering array of articles for wear fash
Toned out of ermine and of ermine
alone. The passion for white has had
the most to do with ermine's popu-
larity. Other white furs are often
substituted for the ermine with al
most equally good effect The best of
these are trimmed with bits of black
fur, for the purpose of Stimulating the
more expensive fur.
Fur is as often used for a hat trim
ming as for the entire foundation. AS
the season advances, the former use
increases. Milady still sings to her di-
aphanous hats of lace, and to those of
velvet which exactly match her cos
tune. She is not averse, however to
lavish use of fur as a trimming, and
thus she combines her own preferences
with the dictates of fashion.
hat of white lace, which is a re-
cent Paris Importation, is in the mush-
room shape. This is the reigning Paris
favorite, and is so becoming that it is
sure to find favor in America. The
graceful lace curtains which drape the
brims of so many of the evening hats
are especially fitted to this model. On
the hat in question the lace curtain fell
from under a band of ermine which
edged the brim. Small ermine medal
lions alternated with soft pink crush
roses on the brim, while wide pink
tulle strings started under the brim
in the back and tied under the chin in
big chou.
Some of the fur beavers simulate fur
perfectly. A pretty little toque of
white fur felt is trimmed with medal
lions of lace and with fur appliques.
A double medallion of lace trims the
front Of the rolling brim. Behind this
on both sides start soft fur appliques
which resemble tails. The longest OF
these droop over the hair in the back.
The crown OF the toque is absolutely
bare of ornament.
Short haired, velvety white fur is
fashioned into a scoop-shaped hat,
The brim flares away from the face IN
| front, but turns up sharply against
the crown In the back, giving a chic
effect. II is edged with a band OF
sable fur, which graduates IN width
from the back 10 the front. The Ioin
IN the back Is hidden by a tiny animal
head. The under brim Is thiekly en-
| crusted with white Irish crochet lace.
/ II Us question whether the fur alone
/ would not have been equally becoming.
/ But 81 IL the FAD ~ the moment 10 put
] la 7. u