Arizona republican., 1903-10-19
PARTISAN STYLES.
The Very Latest Pointers From Capital
of Fashionable World.

| cOuturiers and jewellers who form the
Aulic Councils of Form. Fashion and
Mode. and sit in joyful conclave i'll
dainty atelirs near the Column Ven
dome know for certain what will pre-
vail during autumn and winter until
| the end of October the reason being
| that until then their laws are expert
mental. are merely trial balloons, as
| 1t were, to ascertain the real trend
of the atmosphere in the highest alti-
tudeS of elegance. Not until the ap-
proach of great social events or func
lions do the expresses queens and
princesses of the European courts and
the grandes DANES of the Faubourg St.
! Germain give the final sanction to the
DEGREES promulgated in the Rue de Ia
PaiX. Bitter disappointment often
awaits those impatient women who
preuaturely choose gowns, hats, un-
derwear and jewelry during the eX-
detrimental stage. only to find they have
followed some Slittering will-o'-the-
wisp and that their selections turn
out to be ridiculous. tentative exagger-
ations. This year, however, is an eX-
| ception, for the visit of King Victor
Emmanuel III and Queen Helene have
advanced the season Il good fortnight.
| Countless orders have been received
from the great ladies of foreign courts
and of the Faubourg st. German, who
| together with score of favOrite ac-
tresses and some half u dozen pictur-
esque professional beauties. give sane
ton and blot to the edicts of the Rue
de la Paix This week the finishing
touches have been given to gowns, hats.
nantes and jewels to be worn at the
| xf ctS
reviews and levees and at the gala
theatrical entertainments in honor OF
their Italian majeSties.
| During the last three days / have
had interesting chats with the mag
mates of the Rue de la Paix, the Place
Vendome, the Rue Scribe. and the
Boulevards Madeleine and Ita,iens;
have talked with Jacques. Doucet,
Worth, Pacquin. Cherit, Randnims,
Rouff. Leferadere and Felix Redfern.
with Nine. earlier with RebouX
Firot. with Lacloch, Rouhceron, Morgan
and Leroy. with NuittOn. with Mac
quet also with the directors of the
Magasins de Louvre, the Bon Marche
and the Maison de Blanc. 1 am thus
able to cable boiled down the gist of
the dicta of this Areopagus of fash
ion.
First OF al, let it be clearly UNDER
stood that the sensational attempt 10
revive crinoline has utterly collapsed
1t is true that three or four coutu
riers. owing to the prevailing mode
of exceedingly ample straight out
skirts. which are to be worn fuller
than ever before, have introduced
small steel circlets to prevent incon-
venient Tapping of the undulating ma
terial between the legs. But from
these steel circlets to crinOline is q
fai cry. and the authorities unani-
mously and emphatically declare GRIN
oline Inconsistent with the twentieth
century tastes. and vocations of wo
men and incompatible with such fe'
male sports as automobiling. golf ant
up-to-date cotillions. Not only are
skirts fuller, but provided with large
flowing flounces with Zigzag gallons
with trimmings of rare lace or o
hand embroidered muslin.
The prevailing colors will be nat
ural, passe autumnal tints. pale paste
blues, pistache greens. heilotrope
mauves. delicate champagnes or faded
ruSsets. The materials most in favo
are light pompadour silks. supple vel
; vets, wavy mousselincs and change
able taffetas. There will be unpre
cedented profusion of ruffles. of dain
ty embroideries and guipures. Tn
bodiceS most i'll vogue are those of tn
Marie Amelie or 1880 style. with fall
t ing. sloping shoulders, sleeves cut eX
ceedingly low. very simple from the ell
bow down, with insertions and ar
engagements of costly lace forming
: sort of second sleeves. These falling
l | Sloping shoulders seem to be the dealt
1 knell of the Gibson girl. The modes
moleskin with silvery sheen is the fav
orite fur for the coming season, al
r though ernine. zibeline and blue 70
+ hold their own. The iridescent mole
+ skins are sometimes ornamented wit
ermine insertion and encrusted wit
= lace. either Irish or Pointe dAlenCo;
s Indeed. rare lace for gowns. hats ar
mantles has never before been in sue
{ demand. Ermine is still worn for trim
d mings and collarettes. Moleskin
!, greatly used for hats, which are t
! have higher crowns than for man
years past, the models most in favo
= being those known as the Trianon an
the Montagnard, with black velve