The Cook County herald. [volume] (Grand Marais, Minn.) 1893-1909, 1903-09-12
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Thomas F. Woodlock in "NalI street
Journal" July. 18TH s ;.s ~ i
Your correspondent is more
or less of an @Atlantic traveller, having
made some fifteen trips across the
ocean, and is more or less familiar
with this particular form Of holiday.
Its strong points are:
"a Absolute rest for mind and body,
(2) Unlimited fresh air.
And it's weak points are:
Cd Monotony.
(2) Bad weather-frequently
with, OF course, the strong points much
the most important and entirely pre-
dominant
circumstances compelled the writer
this year to forego the usual Atlantic
trip, as he had to go West. Having
some detailed acquaintance with rail-
road affairs, he was aware that
the Northern Steamship Company
owned by the Great Northern-oper-
ated a steamer from Buffalo to Duluth,
making the trip in three days, and he
determined to try it.
He found a magnificent
ocean-going steamer close upon 400
feet long, of 5000 horsepower, de-
veloping speed of 18 to % miles an
hour, fitted up in style that he has
never seen surpassed on any ocean
vessel, whatever her size, furnished
with large, airy staterooms, lofty sa-
looms and decks innumerable, the top
deck being something like 70 feet
above the water. Brilliantly lit, admi-
rably ventilated and most convenient
arranged as to all appointments
Lake Erie is not especially pictur-
esque as to its eastern end.
when the st. Clair river was entered
the scenery became beautiful.
From that time, with very few hours
OF open lake, the trip to Duluth was
succession of changing pictures, any
one of which would make the fortune
of an Atlantic route lucky enough to
possess it exclusively. Just above De-
troit there is Belle Isle Park, which
Is surely the most beautiful public
park in the world, and it lies at the
waters edge. Across the river is
sleepy Windsor. The river is full of
excursion steamers plying up and
down to half a dozen resorts, all on
the river and full of holiday crowds,
and our steamer threaded it's way
among them, meeting all kinds of
craft from ore-carriers and whale
backs to naptha launches and rowing
boats. All this at sunset after a typ
ical summers day with the mercury
standing at 70 degrees and no more!
Next day there was Mackinac Island,
looking something like little Welsh
fishing village, with the hill rising d.
rectly from the waters edge, dotted
with summer cottages and here and
there large hotel, and the bay filed
with all kinds of sailing craft Beauty
enough for one days steaming, you
would think, but in three hours we
reached St. Mary's river and passed
the famous $500" canal by moonlight.
You are to imagine stretch of river
some miles, with campers on
every point, their tents lit up, and
here and there remains Of the Fourth's
pyrotechnics in course of dissolution
all on a still summers evening, so
still that the voices on the shore could
plainly be heard on our steamer as we
passed, until the roar Of the $500"
rapids drowned them as the town and
the great lock came in sight. Finally
we came into Lake Superior and en-
tered on the last day of the trip.
Once more variation in the seen
cry. The red banks of Lake Superior
sandstone topped with pine and cedar
and refreshing GOODNESS in the air
marked the change, and presently there
was the Houghton-Hancock ship canal
opening up with its twin copper cities
on the hills rising on each side, and it's
red waters. The temperature at the
Houghton dock was 30 odd degrees,
with a strong southwest wind, but we
were hardly out of the canal when
wraps and overcoats were in order, for
the first time since leaving Buffalo,
and we were headed direct for Duluth
The writer's purpose is to
bring out the fact that this Lake trip
has all the advantages of an Atlantic
voyage with the disadvantages elm
mated altogether. You will note, first
that the steamer itself is of the ocean
type, only more comfortable; second
that the trip is three days. long, which
affords time for complete rest (quife
apart from the fact that round trip
from New York city to Duluth with
six days. steaming can be made be-
tween Saturday morning and the fol-
lowing Saturday night }, and
third, that there is no monotony about
any part Of it.
The emotion of surprise in
its ultimate degree is susceptible of
change into other emotions. To find
the bell-boys Cor cabin stewards) at
tentive yet unobtrusive, the walters
courteous and painstaking, the ships
officers genial and communicative, the
purser gentleman and a diplomat of
the first water, the cooking absolutely
first-class, the staterooms clean and
cool-and all this with the other adj