Evening star., 1903-09-26
)LD-T|ME FASHIONS
Recalled in Modes Now Fol-
AsGed.
IAVE MODERN CHANGES
UT ONLY SERVE TO MAKE MORE
FASCINATING.
>aoe Stocks, Short Cravats and Dol
mans of Eighteenth and Nine
teenth Centuries.

;pecial Correspondence Of The Evening Star.
NEW YORK. September "a, 1908.
The bellies and beaux of ancient days are
ecalled by the new fashions. The lace
,ock and short cravat of the eighteenth
entury gallant is with us, also the rionon
ounces. dolman wraps and undersieeves
the sixties.
Never is fair woman sweeter than when
ressed in the prettiness which suggests
er grandmamma. She is wrapped as well
the cloak of romance for her folderois
int Of many thngs-duels heartbreaks
nd even political controversies.
When the undersleeve, as we have come
o know It, first made its bow to American
eauty the civil war was waging. The wo-
zen below Mason and Dixon's line caught
he fever and in time of stress turned
very available white rag to undersleeves
I'D linen sheets were brought into account,
ne good parts shaping the full puff exactly
it is seen today. Mosquito netting
;trung with colored wool was used for the
1ide undersleeveS made with a number OF
ny frills and falling away from the bare
rm. For third style-a sort of headed
ounce, which could be applied at mo-
.lents notice to any sleeve-whte lawn
vas preferred. In time however under
-leeveS In this shape were seen even In the
coarsest long CLOTH and they were admired
t that
These three models, with variat tions and
much of the charm of their long dead
perlod, are with us today, and as in the
ong ago each displays the correct under
leeve finish. Which is to say that all are
lade separate from the costume. so that
ney may be freshened changed as of
ore. With one bodice three sets of under
leeves are sometimes supplied, in as many
ITerent cuts and materials; but for the
lowing sleeve of short cut only something
hat comes distinctly from underneath can
used.
This sleeve. to be the thing, must fasten
directly upon the arm ribbon drawstrings
5r elastic bands being used for the purpose.
r IT is pun, a close cuff band, sometimes
yery deep and pointing over the hand, holds
I at the wrist. The edges of the frilled un-
iersleeve in fine lawns or mulls are trim
ned with lace or narrow fowered ribbons,
md If the model is in the shape of deep
Sun-pleated ruffie it may show only a hem
Pagoda Undersleeves.
Such pleated styles are called pagoda un-
IersIeeVes, but as their extreme width and
the dead white lawn in which they are
made give them rather an eccentric appear
lnce, much of their charm Is lost. The
rue aristocrat in undersleeves must half
,eveal and half conceal the purpose for
which 1t was cre2ted-one of coquetry
ilone. Even Cupid would be harmless with
. label, and the same thing holds good with
Indersleeves and everything else in dress.
lHItt SIlldI lO4LtlS bN d SpOu HidhtI
play effects suited to the gentle fascIua-
ions of undersleeves. One in pale brown
10th is perhaps the belle of the group, as
he quaint cut of the Eton coat lends itself
admirably to the requirements of the
iuainter arm draperes. With the collar
ut in the form of a deep cape with stole
ronts It hangs low over the sleeve. which,
hort, open and slashed at the inner ann,
IRE themselves like capes. The undersleeves
IRE of white silk muslin. in three fills,
whose edges are trimmed with butter-col-
Dred lace. Underseeves in the same form
md material are pretty with edges of mar
ow ribbon matching the gown tint-yallow
With yellow gown. violet with violet, etc.
Yourselves show up delightfully."-.
Underpuffs of white handkerchief linen
distinguish the sleeves of another street
ostume, whose mottled tweed shows the
amiliar green and blue mixture. This
striking color combination is again much in