New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1903-08-13
ALL ABOUT WINTER HATS.
VeLUet for Their Foundation-No
AigretteS after January.

The latest advices from the millinery world go
10 show that a velvet season is impending. Among
the fall models shown in Paris the majority are
velvet covered. and the demand for velvet is al
ready much beyond the average. Velvets will be
popular in great variety of color. and very light
colors. like cream, white and very pale blue VIII
be effectively used to face and trim the underside
of brims, a principle which will be carried out all
through the millinery, though a very light hat,
on the contrary, may be lined with black.
Felt will be in the background. says Tine Mill
merry Trade Review" the only variety which can
vie with velvet being the hairy moleskin' felt
Browns, drabs and grays will be the favorite
colors, with underside of pale ecru or cream
Fancy braids Will also be employed for shapes
among the new ones being inch wide braid
made of pipngs of Iouisine silk
AS to crowns the milIiners do not seem to be
any nearer a settlement than ever, There is no
doubt about the medium crown, especially when
the brim rolls to its summit but the high
is still uncertain. 1t has been set aside by
of the best Paris milliners, who have adopted
in it's stead the Drectoire crown fat at the top,
straight at the sides and from two and half to
three inches in height. This crown seems to be
suited to hats Of all sizes. and has been sold TO
some Of the best American customers Domed
crowns are also in the models, and the
crownless shape is by means out. The boat
shaped hat, brim turning up at the left side,
will be popular and in size there is limit every
thing from the extremely large picture hat TO the
toque and turban being shown. The small effects
will be much in demand for dress occasions, and
birds and wings will be used to trim them The
new toques approach more closely to the hat shape
than for several seasons past. and bonnets
somewhat larger than the models of the spring.
All broad brimmed hats and plateaux mounted
circular cache-peignes which raise them from
the head and tilt them backward semi-sdeways,
as desired In the best models a tendency is shown
tilt the hat to the right. and the extent OF the
tilt determines the amount of trimming placed
underneath.
Velvet brings shrring. which is always very eff
fective IN this material, in its wake. In the
of large hats the covering, OF whatever material is
put on smoothly but a good many of the smaller
models show not only shirred crowns but shirred
brins. Velvet also brings the ostrich feather, and
the settlement of affairs in South Africa has led to
quantity of these elegant ornaments. They will be
used both in the form Of tips and plumes. the tip
and demi-Amazon plume being most in demand.
On shapes with sufficiently high crowns the Prince
of Wales plume will be used, and small tips will be
employed for bonnets. Both on the outside and
underside Of hats clusters Of three and four tips
will be used and similarly shaped pIumes Of cocks
feathers Will be employed in the same way. ANA
plumes also initiated in other feathers, be-
ing composed Of small wings portions Of wings,
or of bird Of paradise plqmage; but the latter are
ners with the Audubon societies.
As for birds, their Importance cannot be exagger-
ated. In the small sizes they Will be clustered to-
TO form rosettes. Wing breast feathers ana gums
will also be employed, but the algrette must De
Ribbons are shown in soft satin and taffeta
weaves. and will be used to form wide fiat bows
rosettes and roses. Lace will be used but prob
shown in Europe Partly in consequence of the
higher crowns buckles have come prominently 70
the fore. They are shaped so as to embrace nearly
half the circumference of the crown and folds Of
velvet are drawn through them; Trimmings are
lowed 10 rise above the crown.