The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1903-08-20

~ ARTS, Aug. Sleeves are grow
ing daily more voluminous from
elbow to wrist and their incon-
venience proportionately in
creases. They take a dip into
the gravy and playfully upset the wine.
They catch up forks, corkscrews and
other small objects, and seem to exem-
plify the perversity of inanimate things,
with the sole object of trying the tenn
per of their wearers and others Yet
the sleeve continues to increase in size
below as il is restricted aboVe-a COM
plete contrast to the time when our
shoulders were inflated with buckram
and puffed up with pride, while the
forearm was sleeved so tightly as to
narrowly escape discomfort. And with
the sleeves the skirt grows fuller also
and dress becomes more elaborate and
complicated with its incrustations in
sertions and entire deux of muslin, lace
and chiffon. The lovely accordion
plated skirt and waist are among the
most charming fashions of the hour.
The couture also must be in accord
ance with the fullness of skirts and
sleeves. and though the hairdressers
are endeavoring to introduce more sim
plicity in style, the general fullness and
large, loose wave refuse to disappear.
The wreath also is revived, and de-
butantes. who for some time past have
worn only white and rose pink, are
again adjoining their hair with it.
The fashions of the first empire are
followed here in evening and tea
gowns. The Empress Josephine was a
most graceful woman. and we have to
thank her for the extravagant details
OF the empire dress. Nearly all the
evening gowns worn then were en-
broidered with pearls and precious
stones. We owe to her the gold and
silver spangled cuffs which are so much
worn now. 1t was an extravsgant age,
that of the creole empress whose lavish
expenditure knew no bounds. The
enormous income allowed her was not
sufficient to meet this expenditure. But
her taste was exquisite. and originated
some OF the most charming fashions
which have been handed down to us.
She was fond OF flmy india muslins
and rich embroideries in gold and sill
yer from the far east. The French
woman makes of outline a very care
full study. 1t is to her quite as i'm
portant as color, and. though the minor
details are carried out with the nicely
Of taste which characterizes her, these
two main points in the toilet are the
test of her artistic taste
A pink satin dress. embroidered with
silver. which, Nine Sarah Bernhardt
wears in its grace of outline is per-
lection itself. An empire dinner gown,
made of soft cream satin hand en-
broidered. has sleeves and bodice trim
ming of Dalghali Grape. bordered with
a narrow beading. At the hem there
are three bias tucks. The gown Is made
to fit the figure below the waist by
means of clusters of perpendicular
tuckings. The Grape, which is only one
straight piece. is very dexterously
draped on the bodice, caught up with
a buckle in the center of the bust and
in front of each shoulder, forming &
sort of epaulet over the hanging
sleeves. This is repeated at the ba'
where the gown fastens. The buckle:
are pearl and diamond affairs. which
sparkle in the light. They are soft anc
flexible, and through the one at tn.
waist is drawn the Grape sash which
descends nearly to the feet.
The tea frock originated by thu
young girl OF the day is the latest in
novation. 1t is a graceful indoor gar
ment Of simple construction. comfort