The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-06-06

long plain coats or blouse Etons as may
be preferred but severity ceases there
and gowns for afternoon wear. for visiting
and for the evening are exqulstely dainty
and are freely elaborated with hand-work
An exceedingly elaborate elegant gown
bearing the Partisan mark combines heavy
linen with fine and serves 20 illustrate the
favor shown English openwork embroidery.
or what the French call a jour work. The
skirt Is without train. but exactly torches
all round Ii consists of three portions or
circular lounces that are slightly full at
the upper edges. Upper and lower ones are
of the heavy linen embroidered in this ia
vorite style. while the center one is of
cut-out embroidery in fine linen The
blouse is simple in shape, with full sleeves.
and is entirely of the fine linen, while the
boiero, with its sleeves reaching to the ell
bows. is OF the heavy embroidered sort. At
the waist is wcrn a rather deep pointed belt
of white kid. second model is of the
finer. more supple linen and serves TO illus
trate the favor shown the dainty Teneriffe
work that we have came To know so well.
The skirt is without fiounces, tucks or Shir-
rings and is simply gathered at the belt,
but there is an elaborate pattern of the
Teneriffe work set on TO founce depth ana
above it entredeux forming a straight
band, while above that again are perpen-
dicular inserts that divide the skirt into
that French people like well. but is elab-
GRATED by insrts and motifs. and over IL is
worn a cape that is cut in deep Van Dykes.
each of which shows inset medallions. The
sleeves are full above somewhat deep Guns,
and the belt is of white Liberty silk
draped TO point at the front. With ii IL
worn a lingerie hat that is all muslin and
Teneriffe work, with touch IF color found
in pale yellow crush roses. Exquisite
gowns of the finer linens give another proof
of its favor and are to be seen in the film
lest weaves embroidered after the gown
is fitted. A most elegant example Is OF
handkerchief lawn cut in princess style
and is embroidered all over in fIll blown
carnations worked in the English style. At
the lower edge they are large. and they
diminish in size as they approach the top
Each one is lined with ecru net and the
bottom Of the skirt is cut into sections that
fail over a flounce Of the same. Over the
corsage is a tiny bolero of Irish lace whose
short sleeves fall over big puffs OF the
lawn. At the neck is an unstiffened collar
over bright burnt orange. which gives a
final chic touch to the whole.
SILK is MUCH WORN.
Silk, too has great vogue and Is used in
many promisingly practical ways. Never
have I seen such charming costumes worn
by elderly women on the street as those of
black taffeta that daily are seen. Skirts
are. for the most part, tucked or plated on
vertical lines and coats are loose in half
length. AS has been said again and again,
advancing years should mean dignity in
dress as we'll as in bearing. These taffeta
costumes are light. COOL elegant. becom-
ing all in one and so charming that cam
not fail to speak my little word OF delight
that they exist Younger women use the
material in color we'll in black and in
the fashionable little checks and are daily
seen in gowns of varying sorts that all have
their charm Shirtwaist suits have great
vogue and are admirable for general utili-
ty wear so long as they are kept simple,
but shirtwaist gown overelaborated sug
gests vulgarity and is in very poor taste.
The costumes of more formal use are made
with bolero bodces and with jaunty little
Elton coats of many sorts most elegant
visiting gown is of taffeta in sage green,
and is made with nine-gorred skirt show
ing triple plaits at each seam which provide
generous flare. The plaits are cut to
founce depth and are graduated, so becom-
ing deeper as they approach the back. Over
piped with white and held by an orna-
mental button. The coat Is blouse jacket
that terminates at the belt. Its fronts turn
back to form revers that are faced with
white silk and enriched by motifs of heavy
cream lace. Over the shoulders are two tiny
capes whose front edges disappear under
the revers: The sleeves are full in bell
style and fall over puffs of lace, while the
underbodice is of chiffon with a collar OF
lace.
White mohair is still another favorite and
promised to be cool. Walking suits clear
the ground and are made with plain unlined
coats. but more elaborate costumes are
as plain coats. With them are worn the
daintiest possible lingerie waists. 1t would
seem as though nothing quite fine enough
Teneriffe work. to which have already re-
ferred, is a favorite trimming and embroid-
cry and drawn work both are freely, even
lavishly. used. The finest materials make
the foundations. Japanese linen is one of
the later ones to be applied to the use and is
always exquisite. 1t has a sheen seen in
no other linen and is strong at the same
time that it is fine. but, alas, means COM
mensurate cost. Fine linen and cotton
lawns. null and all the delicate fabrics
known are called into requisftton. Girls
who have leisure and possess the needle
woman's skill can make most exquisite
waists by drawing threads and working
In Mexican style or by embroidering dainty
designs onto the material. The Tenerine
work, too can be done at home If one be
suit. 1t is a season of hard work. Moth
ing else gives such touch of elegance to
either waist or a gown.
/ must say word about bathing suits
before ] close. The time for their need Is
drawing near and there are many charming
all materials of weight and choose such
things as mohair and serge or even silk, but
personally i prefer the mOhair. Suits OF
shepherds check taffeta are exceedingly
chic upon the mannikins who are showing
them just now, but cling too closely to be
satisfactory in the water. Mohair sheds
water. is light and altogether desirable.
Some of the prettiest suits are made of
white with trimming of blue braid, but
there is a conservative contingent that al
model and a good one shows a box plat.
f1anked by two side plaits at each side.
down the center of both front and back of
the blouse and a skirt plated to give con-
tinuous lines but which, in reality is sep
arate and buttoned onto the belt The neck
full and short. The boomers are well
shaped and are attached to the blouse that