Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-09-22
--latest Partisan Ideas of Vel
vet in Millinery.
NEAT AUTUMN EFFECTS
WHY THE PARISIENNE Is THE
WORLDS BEsr-DRESSED WOMAN.
The Plateau Effect in Broad Brimmed
skin for Theater and Evening.

From the Millinery Trade Review.
Smart models such as received special at
tention at the hands Of your American buy
ers. must be given the pas again this
month.
AS you already know. velvet-covered hats
figure prominently in this class, and 1t Is
these that come to the tip Of my pen. as 1t
were. One, for instance. in black velvet
used to cover a shape with wide. fiat
brim. wherein the material Is stretched
smoothly to within a little moro than an
inch from the edge. where there are two
folds. The same arrangement Is repeated
in the facing of the under side. On the top
OF the straight-up crown the velvet Is
drawn in honeycomb gathers. whereas the
sides are concealed by a wide band Of soft
black satin pleated in a number of I'M
studied folds and drawn through large
oblong jet buckle of the exact height Of the
crown. This buckle Is placed at the side
just over the right ear, and 1t serves also
to fasten the long ostrich plume that COM
pletes the decoration. After sweeping round
the front OF the hat the feather curves over
the edge Of the brim on the left. Its FLUFFY
tip caught up to the bandeau OF velvet
which raises the shape slightly on this SIDE
Throughout half its shape the feather is
black. then 1t begins to shade of, to end in
a grayish white.
Another also wide in the brim, is covered
with deep hyacinth blue velvet drawn up
In cords. laid In beneath the shirred ma
terial in couples. each couple OF cords being
about an inch distant from the other. The
velvet used to face the outside OF the brim
has only one set of shirrings and cords
near Its edge, the rest Of the lining being
nearly covered with heavy white gupure
lace. laid on fiat. its base hidden by fold
ed band OF white velvet. Outside the trim
ming consists Of wide hyacinth blue tat
fota rihhop foldod ha
knotted on the right side into bow con.
sisting OF three long loops Of the folded
ribbon banded twice round the middle, and
Of plume of ostrich tips shaded off from
blue to white, fastened on the left side
rather forward The second plume Is placed
| under the brim. but the shading Of the
three feathers composing 1t Is reversed.
That is to say, they are white tipped with
blue instead OF blue tipped with white.
The Plateau Effect.
The plateau form. slightly domed in the
center is adopted for broad brimmed hat
of deep champagne colored velvet applique,
with cream color guipure lace, and interlet
with embroidery to match the lace. Folds
of the velvet encircle the border: to these
are Joined an interlet band Of the embroid-
cry, then comes plain band of velvet on
which Is laid Vandyked guipure edging,
then band Of folds and another one Of in
terlet insertion, surrounding round piece
of velvet applique. with large rosace OF
guipure. This hat is raised at the back on
a cachpeigne made of quantity Of loops
of inch wide ribbon velvet. The outside is
further trimmed with fat bow Of soft
satin ribbon matching the velvet, knotted
double in the center Of each loop. and each
loop passing through a small gold buckle.
Velvet Of medium tint OF drab Is used
to cover a broad-brimmed hat with low
broad crown. The material Is stretched
smooth over the latter. which has a long,
chased gilt buckle traversing 1t from front
to back. A piece Of taffeta ribbon Of the
same color the velvet is worked In and
out of the buckle. to form a row of
short loops on either side. The crown is,
moreover, encircled by 'Marquise" of o.
trich tips. There are eleven of these tips
in as many graduated shades of drab, and
they all curve symmetrically over the brim,
which is covered smooth with the velvet. a
double putting Of the same encircling the
edge, an arrangement repeated In ivory
| white velvet on the under side of the brim.
| This curves up on the left. where plume
| of three white tips Is placed rather forward.
Another Of the same shape Is covered
| plain with sage green velvet and lined with
very pale sky blue tulle. three layers of
which are closely shirred so as to form a
series Of little puffings, with band Of blue
chenille between each. Around the crown Is
square buckle Of greenish gilt metal, stud
ded with small clear blue stones. The trim
ming further consists Of two long ostrich
| tips shaded from sage green to palest
blue. fastened against the base OF the
| crown, one curving forward and the other
| toward the right
Louisine Braids and Moleskin.
Foremost among the very dressy hats
~toJo fho,,