Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-09-19
STYLES EN- MEMS WEAR
LOOKING TOWARD AUTUMN AND
WHAT THE SIGNS SAY.
Brightness and Color Distinguishing
Features Of Fall Dress-The
Proper Frock Coat.
From the Haberdasher.

From the Habertiasher
| More or less conjecture must enter into
| any forecast of autumn fashions just at
present. The mode is in plastic state,
| ready for forming. but not yet formed.
Fashion, too, has a most dSconcerting
trick of popping surprises that sets the
| most carefully prepared forecasts at
naught Summer was so backward that
late. and hence will be late in returning.
l doubt very much if the social
season will be a-swing before Deem
Der L. Newport, Lenox. Bar Harbor. and
the fashionable colonies generally, are too
seductive in early autumn to turn ones
back on. and the tendency will be to cling
to the easy, breezy garb of summer until
rigorous weather sets in. Then there will
be concerted scamper downward, and
the horse show to be held in November will
mark the first formal display of the sea-
sons new clothes. Our wealthy and lei
sured class is learning to enjoy the golden
days of autumn to the full, and whereas
the season at Newport used to close quite
early, it is now prolonged well into the
months when the frost gliStenS fence
posts and nipS ears and noses.
Radical innovations in dress do not look
for this autumn. 1t will be season of
brightness and color of richer tones and
warmer hues, but there are no signs that
custom and tradition will be Jared If
fashion has card up its sleeve, it will per-
tain to details rather than essentials. The
Well-dressed man of autumn, naughty
three, will show the same regard for the
niceties of attire that have long distin-
guished the American gentleman. He will
studously avoid anything that renders him
TOO conspicuous. and he will continue to
shun the popular as he would a pesti
Jnrn 1,,;3x, L
clusiveness in dress. When a mode leaves
9TH avenue and settles a few blocks below
it must be resolutely put aside. Of course,
there is a species of imitation that cannot
we'll be avoided, so quick are the copyiSts
| to see and seize s1pon mode We are the
best-dressed nation in the world, for even
those low in the social scale show an in
tuitive appreciation of harmony and fitness
in attire that is unknown among the races
which lay claim, to an older and more rare
fied civiiza ton. &
Wing Collars.
Dropping generalities, we find that with
the DOMINIC of more formal attire wing
collars will be favorites. The long narrow
wing has given place to smaller affairs
that fit the neck rather snugly and give
tidier effect. The best model of wing col
lar will be somewhat high, have narrow
stitching, and less space between the tabs.
Square or round points are optional, though
l fancy the square will be more sought.
Round points have never really passed be-
yond the fad stage, and, This, joined to the
fact that they are featured by low priced
shops tends to render them Unacceptable to
many men,. Poke collars for evening and
formal day wear should taper gracefully
from the neck outward; "pokcs with snip
py points are odious. Standing collars with
fronts just meeting and straight ISLANDERS
with overlapping fronts are correct for for
NAL occasions. Fold collars are out of it
from a strictly fashion point of view, as
they are really a summer style. However
they will be worn to business, and both
square and round points are permissible.
The square have doomed up as a form-
dable rival to round points, though the
round launder better and are less prone to
become ragged. All collars will have soft,
dead white. lusterless finish.
Coming to shirts for informal wear the
pleated garments are good Pleats are
somewhat narrow and the grounds consist
of stripes or swiveled units. Colors are a
bit pronounced, in harmony with the gen.
eral tendency of autumn dress toward more
sharply defined effects. I do not think that
the bosom shirts made up of two fabrics
one in cuffs and bosom and the other in
body and sleeves, will go with the best
trade. Cross stripe bosoms are mooted,
but conditions just now are not favorable
to their Introduction. High-cass custom
shirtmakeFs have shown them tenta lively
and, so far as can be determined without
encouragement. Dress shirts have under
gone no change The very simple affair
| with plain bosom is correct. This is made
in the convenient jacket style which GU
rious to relate, hasn't Caught on with
the public. The man who studies dress in
| diligently long ago gave his unreserved
approval to the jacket shirt, but what are
designated as 1.-THE masses seemingly will
have none of 1t.
Large Cravats.
In cravats it's season of large shapes.
The wing and poke collars look well only
| with cravats of generous widths. For bust
ness wear big squares and board four-in-
hands will be proper. while for formal day
wear the ascot promises to hold first place.
Narrow four-in- hands. small ties and
skinny crayats generally are passe. Bril-
liant designs are favored in cravatings and
the lover of brightness and color may give
free rein to his taste without transgressing
the prophecies. OF course, eXcluSiveness of
pattern counts for much, and the we'll
dressed man will go to any length to obtain
it. F'our-in- hands will have moderately
tight full knots. while ascots will be ad-
justed with freer and more flowing eff
feet. So-called dress protectors are not to
be thought of. The smart muller viii be
the big thirty-six-inch shape in plain black,
plain white or sober mixtures. In both
cravats and muffiers Individuality of pat
| tern and plenitude of fabric are the marks
of the upper-class article.
| Venturing into the domain of the tailor
as contradiStinguiShed from that of the
| haberdasher the freck coat for man five
| feet eight inchSs high will be forty inches
| long and made oflfworsted vicuna. The
| lapels will be long Hiid medium width, and
| will be silk faced tp the buttonhoIe Jack
| cts will be made swithout the long roll
which has come to- be the badge of the
ready-made garmeat, square-cut double
breasted jackets WIN have three buttons:
| the two-button affair has been relegated to
| the sartorial boneyard. Round-cut jackets
will have the same fcutaway effect in front
which distinguished Spring garments. The
slight military fiarain the back is still in
| vogue and the jasket will have a center
vent. Trousers will be moderately wide at
| the hip, twenty INCHES at the knee and
| seventeen inchfs attthe bottom.
Evening Dress
| Evening dress shows but slight changes.
Coats are the some length, with tails a
trifie more peaked and lapels silk faced to
the edge. Cloth not velvet collars are cor
| rect. Trousers measure twenty inches at
the knee and seventeen inches at the bot
| tom. The evening jacket has a narrower
lapel with longer roll. The waistcoat is
three-button and U-shaped. So far as over
coats go, the covert top coat rather short
and very full, promises to be more of a
factor than heretofore. The long Chester
| 1eld exceedingly plain in cut and trim
ming. and the skirted coat will divide