Omaha daily bee., 1903-02-22
Gowns and Hats subdued in coiOrIng
but striking in Cut.

-..N - 4. -
Gowns and Hats ubdue In CoIOring.
but striking in Cut.
NEW YORK, Feb. 2o.-The street gowns
that smart women are having made for
Lenten wear are not distinguished by any
special piety. Colors, in many cases, are
subdued, OF course, but the old FORMS are
everywhere seen. some Of them ever In
clinihg a 1itue toward, the eccentHc.
Newness for every period is what fash
ion requires, and since the Lenten street
dash can be got In no other way, perhaps
these old cuts are admissible. At any rate,
they do the right thing-give the long
: shouldered, n~arrow-hipped look indispensa-
bic for the moment; wherefore in our
prisons TO heaven we shall not be diverted
by the gloom Of the u~nbecoming.
Few of these toilettes, which must be
worn into the spring. have been made with
the intention OF carrying wraps. The
trimmed waists and short Jackets will be
Z worn over channels vests when the weather
calls for extra warmth, on which occa-
sions the big muffs and fur neck pieces Of
the, winter may also appear.
a little gown, which supplies Just the
I right degree Of elegance for some miser-
, able yet sweet sinner. lis made of a brown
and white notified wool, The skirt, In the
snug sides Of which the bottom breadths
; are inserted TO produce the necessary fare,
is extremely odd. The upper portion fits
back and front without a gather at the
hips. A narrow brown braid, in three
rows. outlines IL with a slashed overskirt
suggestion, and the crush belt is Of. brown
! velvet.
: The little Elton, whose pulled sleeves
show a decrease Of the present ~hugeness,
hangs loose at the front. A charming col
lar with stole ends OF brown cord-lace
T trims the cut-out neck, which is bordered
with a large roll Of brown chenille. At the
top Of the sleeves and ends of the stole
are white wool fringes.
: Chenille Trimming.
Chenille decorations are observed on sew
: erai Of these gowns, this trimming, ac-
cording to fashionable opinion. supplying
& the suggestion of warmth without too
wintry a look.
For fur, as a trimming" says one au-
thority, of course cannot be used on spring
{ costumes, which these gowns virtually are"
Chenille, in gray especially, gives a
furred effect.
Gray chenille balls, attached to a black
braid, and black braid-lace over white,
trims the .trig Etoi OK -hhothep costume.
The material is smokeagray 1satin-faced
cloth and the apron OF the effective skirt
runs around the'sides and back to form a
tight hip yoke. Into this the side breadths
: are fitted with narrow tucks, and, from the
( front one all around, the skirt is bordered
with an m band made by narrow
black braid. Flowing sleeves distinguished
J this charming costume, whose little jacket
will be worn over a white wool bodice with
a lace front.
Several velvet gowns are seen among the
sLenten toilettes, the snartest OF these
taking to trimmings OF silk braid-lace,
which initiates the patterns of Cluny.
On a stunning dress In dark blue this
ornamentation was black. The braid used
for the lace is Of the fiat tape sort, with
the Cluny knots and squares woyenssin a
tight thread. It comes ready made, in
straight, bands and highly ornamantal
pieces. some OF whiohji outline fanS eatire
skirt 'front.' One very effeotfve method of
its employment is to have the rich trim
ming show in an unbroken line from throat
TO skirt hem.
Braids of various sorts are used With
plain cloth, which is also sometimes made
70 supply a rich decoration in itself. Thin
French cloths are cut out in many fantastic
ways to shape skirt and jacket borders.
COulIdbNluk baNh6AOhhho VI oAAh VI NV
show these of richly. and. however somber
the gown. white is a necessary note for the
waist.
~ Attractive Neekwear.
The time has passed when we may go
forth dark and somber at the throat Filmy
cravats and vests Of null and lace must
give the becoming and modish touch, and
Il our large lace-covered buttons are sup
~ e. "a aV. E1AAl1anNNn0 Nd tho
French word-we are more in the swim.
These buttons are the revival Of ancient
tastes, when our mothers wore loose cloaks
VIII vide sleeves and fiat dropping collars.
And, as in that time, the swinging buttons
today ornament in limited numbers the
fronts OF similarly fashionable garments.
An adorable evening cloak, which a win
ter pttde' vows that she will wear all
through Lent. is OF ivory white French
cloth, with. these buttons at'the front. The
silk-covered bangles are at least four
inches long and sharply pointed. A silk
cord lace covers the buttons. which are
something larger than a 2b-cent piece
Raw-edged borders OF the cloth are used
upon the fiat round collar.
These unhemmed edges are Immensely
effective with cloth, and no decoration
could be less expensive. Various skirts
with deep DiaS uOuhCeo, put U VIII swami
ness Of folds, will have several raw edges
at the bottom. Arranged closely, one ovei
the other, these are stitched under the
edge OF the nounee. producing the look o.
narrow tueks.
But there is a rift within this modisl
Lutte. Unless the raw edges are cut by thu
most accomplished OF ~tailors, there viii
be chat Wavering Of ins which fashion,
recording angel will mark against the
wearsr, for absolute evenness is demanded
Ana besides a good cutter. only the closely
woven French cloths can produce this. s.
took out for the loose, thready cloths !
you want raw edges.
white for House Wear.
In, all the temples Of fashion. white Il
conceded the correct thing for LenteI
house wear. The gown may how touches
of color, but white must be Its ground prin
cipIe. and the more like = heavenly robe 4
Is In form the better. This point the
fashion people describe otherwise-'some
WnmNn1C