The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1903-12-26
WITH dame FASHION

]
made gown is a pressing necessity al
his season as the warm knitted jack
cts which have become so fashionable
have obviated the necessity of wearing
| a heavy coat. In fact comparatively
few smartly dressed women wear
coats this year except they are made
of elegant fur.
There are several ways of supplying
the warmth and comfort of the heavy
cloth coat in the tailor made jackets,
however, as are shown by the capelets
and other shoulder decorations of
smart designs. Then there are inter-
Innings of chamois which makes it i'm
possible for the cold air to pentrate
the system. while they add nothing in
bulk to the figure.
! Many of the cloth suits have velvet
shape or form. Strappings of velvet
seem destined to supercede the taffeta
and satin bands which have done du-
| ty SO long. One very excellent reason
! for this change is that richer effects
and cOlOrings are Obtainable by the
use Of velvet, especially since the man
ufacturers have attained such excell-
ence in the waving of panne and chit
fon velvets It is possible to obtain
tints in these fabrics that can be gained
in no other materials and for richness
they are unexcelled.
| \ striking costume in one of the
smart shops is developed in biscuit
| that it possesses the suppleness of
| wolfe on etamine.
| At the front the skirt is oX-plaited
While the bottom is finished with two
applied tucks above which are fancy
stitched bands of shaded brown velvet
From either side OF the front EXTEND
I ing over the hips there is a shirred
yoke Of the cloth and this yoke fast
ems invisibly at the back.
| The jacket is blouse and made
| entirely of the velvet. Over the Shout
| derS, however, there are two deep
capes of the cloth, faced with brown
satin and finishing a yoke Of shirred
|
! lace over which folds of the velvet
| open and these folds are trimmed with
orange, white and brown embroidery.
The sleeves have close fitting cuffs
to the elbows over which there fall
deep pufTs of velvet. The cuffs are
are finished with a stitched band of
cloth trimmed with an immense velvet
button. Extending almost to the tips
of the fingers are ruffies of biscuit col
or chiffon over white silk which are
seWd in the sleeves.
a brown panne vlvet hat trimmed
with ruchings OF the same color satin
and shades ostrich plumes completes
the costume.
More attention than ever Will be
paid to color schemes this year. For
effective backgrounds the sombre
shadow tones will be used and upon
these will be built the most beautiful
color harmOnies. Quaint and chang
cable browns trimmed with orange
and blue will only afford more strik-
ing background to the dash of red
which will be seen on many gowns.
Shad blue-that strange tint almost
as deep as ink-will be garnshed
with bands of cherry velvet with red
corral trimmings for belt and hat
Another pretty color scheme is shown
in a tan costume in the stock. The
foundation is made of brown satin; |
over this there is a band of heavy in
sertion and at the upper edge of the
stock there are no less than four mate |
rails in as many colors for first comes
a band of burnt orange velvet, then a
band of brown chiffon over white net. !
The description is complicated, but the
effect is simple and most striking.
The acme Of all that is desirable in
the present fashions are the low Shout
der draperies which have the perpet
ual look of sliding off. To produce
this quaint effect the bertha, cape, per-
lerine or whatever effect is adopted
must droop very low over the arms
and cover the tops of the sleeves COM
pletely 1t is easy, however, to exag-
gerate this appearance, therefore a
master hand should be employed for
the work or a pattern followed that
has been cut exactly to the measure
of the wearer.
The belt has developed into such an
important feature of toilette that it
is no longer a simple affair. The new
est designs are little less than bodices
and are more or less crushed, according
to the build of the Wearer. Several
dainty adjustable models are shown
and with these the greatest latitude
is permitted as to the position of the
big looped bunch of golden which is |
a necessity, especially upon ultra fash
ionable evening gowns. 1t can be
pushed around to the center of the
back or coquettishly pinned a little to
the left Of the front.
Whatever changes the season may
bring it certainly shows no appreciable
reduction in the side of the fash
ionable hats. The newest idea in the