The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-01-03

piece as yet. ones imagination Immediately
pictures the smartest possible gowns. 1t Is
bit too early yet to tell you or the cut
and style OF the Jackets that are certain
to be seen, but before many weeks 1 snail
be able to tell you just how best these ex-
ceedingly chic materials can be used. The
borders are essentially elegant and the en-
tire effect is one much to be desired. Still
handsomer materials are OF linen combined
with silk and are woven after the manner
OF canvas or heavy grenadine. Ponteiaise
de sole is the name the importers use, but
whatever the name. the result is the same
and undeniably good. Black. woven with
white to give rich dark gray, is conspic-
uous, but greens. blues and all fashionable
colors are to be found. Over the surface
is dimly suggested MORE effect that great
ly enhances the beauty and richness. Lin
en- with silk, we are told 1t is. but were the
all of the silk, so lustrous and so brilliant
is its surface. 1t is costly. Such materials
must always be that. but for handsome
summer gowns 1 know of nothing that
would give greater satisfaction.
Thinner. more delicate and dainty fabrics
are here by the score If signs fail not 1t
is to be a white summer as it has been
white winter, and the white materials are
so lovely as almost to defy the pen. En-
broidery is to be much worn, both the
hand-wrought and that done by machine.
Fine French musins are shown with small
all-over designs, with fascinating little
wreaths and in stripes. Swiss muSlins, too,
are shown. but the French material is finer
addition to the lovely all-over embroidered
designs ii is offered in waist patterns that
combine tucks with embroidery and are
as charming as can be- OrgandieS, organdie
carreaux, or with designs woven In squares,
organdie with stripes woven to represent
lace. plumetis, fine lawns. dimities, swiss
muslins, the new cotton gloria and won,
derfully lovely crepes and grenadines all
are to be found. The grenadines have
taken many new. forms and are more love-
ly than ever before. AS a matter Of prefer
orn Cfrfr oil hon ufln rc
the range OF choice no law can be laid
down. Daintily beautiful are all of the bet
ter sort. but in a dozen varying hues The
newer materials are embroidered polka dot
brilliant, or silk and cotton fabric that
is embroidered In self color and has a Pc
culiar brilliancy of its own. the cotton
gloria referred TO above and the lovely silk
and cotton crepes.
The mercerized Swiss muslins are Swiss
muslins glorifed. and the lovely organdies.
dimities and lawns are new in design and
beauty at least. Carreaux designs are much
in evidence and are charming for the tall
slender sisterhood. Pretty ones show
single shadowy flower in each square. the
dividing lines being narrow and of fiat
color. Many of the muslins and the grena-
dimes are in tan color with figures of white
or of black and white, and are very effec-
tive and smart We may rely upon much
tan or natural colored linen and upon cot
ton fabrics woven in the same color. Swiss
muslin so treated is exceedingly handsome
with figures of black and white, and many
hne organizes and lawns show similar COL
oring.
THE THINNER GOODS.
Dimities and all the simpler materials
are seen in a multiplicity of designs Ores
den rosebuds and little wreaths of tiny
flowers are dainty and much liked. The
printed plumelis is exceedingly handsome
and shows many new designs while itself
familiar friend. Floral designs on a
white ground, with lace-like stripes, are at
tractive and afford opportunity for really
charming simple gowns. The flowers are of
the shadowy sort, rather than aggressive,
and are as lovely as can be. We long since
outgrew the notion that color must be bril-
liant or aggressive. We have learned the
secret OF dyeing cottons, If of nothing else,
within these past few years, and as a re-
suit we are offered marvelously beautiful
things at a small price 1t being no longer
necessary TO buy the best in order to get
good color and good design, we should see
a season of truly good dressing, but I fear
some other influence will set things astray.
Summer, with it's light and fllmy gowns
is always the season of aesthetic danger.
The quiet tones of winter far less like
| ly 10 lead the unwary astray than these
| tempting, lovely fabrics that show such
color and design. Some way. the sense of
| relation seems to be lacking I'm many
brains, the art of blending and combining
seems TO be most rare. 1t is not enough
| to choose pretty fabric for ones gown.
| Each detail must be thought out with care,
each bit of trimming chosen with an &C
| curate eye. No one quality has been so
| powerful in placing French designers where
| they stand to-day as their subtle sense of
| color and of relation. If the women who
plan their own gowns would only bear this
fact In mind and study bit how to unite
| and blend the tones the dealers have TO
| offer they would find their reward To be
| truly well dressed one should be becoming
| ly and agreeably dressed. should become
| a pleasant picture to the looker-on as well
| as model OF style. The gown that fails
| TO enhance its wearer's charms, to soften
| her defects has failed Of its purpose let ii
| be as inherently fine as may be. The SIM
| pleSt lawn that has accomplished these
| things places itself among the successes
cost. MAY MANTON.