The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-11-01

costly silks for beauty. Their wearing
qualities are excellent, too, and while the
better sorts are far from cheap, they are
pretty sure to give much better return
than will anything like the same outlay in
the cheaper grades of silks.
Most bodices reflect the stylishness of
shoulder slope. this being apparent both il
the cut OF material and in the placing Of
trimming. These fashions do not seem
nearly as pronounced as they did last
spring, yet observation shows that en-
phatic models are as numerous as they
then were. So the conclusion Is inevitable
that observers have become accustomed to
the almost strawberries figure, rather than
that 1t has become less pronounced. Bertha
and shouider-cape effects are numerous and
much varied, but all, in greater or less de-
gree, achieve the slope. AS TO skirts,
shorter ones are promised for the near
future. but dressmakers do not seem to be
making haste In that direction. That is,
while admitting the change. If left alone
they win cut the new skirt almost as long
as ever. But the shorter length is so much
moro sensible that 1t surely will win its
way. At the same time skirts win become
more nearly round. That should, in a short
time. bripg less OF elaboration. but just now
q deal Of trimming is admitted. Much of 1t
Is ~strapping, banding and braiding, but
these are used very freely, and may be en-
forced by other embellishments. Nor does
all this abundant trimming carry out the
cne-color scheme, OF which so much was
heard a few months ago. for not a little
striking color contrast is INDUCED In skirt
trimming. Most of it. too. is so finely decor
alive that It Is sure to stick.
velvets and velveteens are sure OF much
favor. To view the showings Of them in the
stores is TO know this. 1t is not necessary
later to be told that they are to be stylish.
Shoppers would buy such rich and hand
some fabrics il such Endorsement were al
most wholly lacking. 1t Is here that the
stylishness of fuschia shades is most APP
parent, and certainly these purplish tones
are fine In velvet weaves. Browns are next
IN the solid color velvets- Fancy velvets are
many, most OF them downright ~fanciful.
Most women will use such s~paringly, even
as trimming. for while they are very hand
some they are likely to be a bit too dis
tinctive in small wardrobes. Broadcloths
and the satin-faced weaves that achieved
such admirable hneness two winters ago,
will fad many purchasers, not only for
gowns, but for coats and wraps, which
have become q matter or much w~eightier
consideration than Is usual. Though the
liking OF hairy and hubby materials is pro-
nounced, the finer. smoother fabrics are not
TO b displaced, and the shops showing of
them Is large enough almost to confuse the
intending purchaser. As for the rough
veaves, zibeiine easily is first. Tweeds and
cheviois abound In tailoring that is TO take
on manly finish. and that is about all the
wool there Is TO the autumn's big cry OF
approaching severity. AS 1T is, these tweed
and cheviot rigs seem almost too pro-
nounced Just because OF their extreme plain
ness. Zfbeline. on the other hand. is en-
pIoyed much more In ornate gowns than in
severely plain ones. Indeed, a great many
Of its weaves are so soft, pliable and so
delicately colored that their suitability for
dress-ups is apparent. This goods has, too.
despite ITS characteristic roughness. sug-
Kestion OF measurable lightness. And this
winter there Is to be taboo on a look of
undue weight in all manner OF attire.
The artist has put here a half dozen of
the ways IN which stylish cloths and wooden
Etuns are handled. They range from moder-
ate plainness TO fairly elaborate finish. First
) pictured a tailored blue Venetian cloth,
With self-strappings and blue cord trim
nings, and with embroidered neck and
wrist pieces. At the left in the next picture
s a black broadcloth made up with black
bruxes lace Besides this see a brown zibe-
Inc tailor suit made up with brown cloth.
ID last in this group Is a dark fuschia
finished In fine .pIaits. In the con-
Z picture are a b liotrope cloth. made