davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-06-06
Pretty Shirt Waists.

Sweetly pretty as the English say, are
the summer shirt waists. In fact, the term
shirt waist seems almost too hard and Sc
we're to apply to the dainty ilmy affairs in
null and silk which are of this years crea-
ton. OF course hand embroidery on these
waists is the very acme of elegance and
chic: still. the applications of lace are also
charming.
Particularly new and effective is waist
made of all-over Maltese lace, having inch
wide box plaits of white China silk running
in straight lines down the bodice and
sleeves. These plaits are made separately,
and six are Sewed on the front of the bod
ice, while the same number adorns the
back. The sleeves are quite satisfied with
three plaits.
a waist of handsome linen with a yoke
and StOle-like empiecenent of curtain lace
is exceedingly durable and dainty.
Nothing is cooler or more comfortable
than China silk waist, with yoke of pin
tucks. from which hangs a full tucked
blouse. Where the yoke joins the lower
part of the waist is run line of lace mo-
tits. The sleeves are of the usual bishop
variety, pulled into narrow, lace-trimmed
bands.
Charmingly attractive are the embroid-
cred shirt waists sold in the shops at mod
crate prices They are all ready to make
up, collar and cuffs blocked out, and all
the maker has to do is to put on the mate
rial a pattern that fits her and the waist
Is practically finished.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-06-06
This is q Lace Season.

There never was such a season for lace
real lace, of course, for preference. All
women love lace and are very fair judges
of it. But the manufacturers of today are
copying the old patterns of Venetian point.
renaissance and various coarse makes Of
italian and real Irish crochet all now on
the market at very low prices. As for
coarse guipures. there is a perfect furore
for them. Notwithstanding the efforts OF
the Partisan dressmaker to introduce a
finer make on the early season models
AS a matter of fact. there is no particu-
lar fashion in laces, for any good pattern,
be it real or imitation, finds favor with the
wise. The great thing in these days, when
the limitations are wonderfully good is
not to buy common makes. If you cannot
afford much, have little good, and let it
do duty on more than one frock. After all,
was there ever more convenient fashion
than the lace bertha of the moment which
may be worn on a best-day frock and on a
dinner gown for all occasions? Many wo-
men can afford real bertha of coarse lace
and not consider it an extravagant invest
ment.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-06-06

piped with black silk 1t has skirt on the
waist. running half way down to the knees.
The tucks are released half way down to
give a flare. The skirt has the favored
sun-pleated effect. 1t barely escapes the
ground.
Sun-pleating is popular in the short skirt
travelling suits. Such a skirt is becoming
even to a woman who is blessed with en-
bonpoint, if use is made of the hip yoke.
A stylish travelling suit is of black and
white check silk. The skirt has a hip yoke
running down to slight point in the front
The skirt is pleated below this. A simple
shirt waist of the checked silk and a short
round jacket of black taffeta is worn with
this.
The travelling hat is important, for it may
make or mar the costume The days are
past when an old hat was considered
plenty good enough for travelling" The
smartest millinery shops are filed with
hats designed exclusively for use with a
travelling toilet. They are simple, but they
have style all their own.
Are Still Correct.
Panama hats in the crush shapes that
were popular last year are still correct for
travelling wear. They are trimmed with
searfs of Indian muslin. loosely tied about
the crown. Scarfs of coarse weave netting
of dull green, red. blue or tan are also
stylish.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-06-06
THE KIMONA COATS.
Oriental Garments Favored by the
Summer Girl.


Summer Girl.
From the New York Tribune.
The oriental fad which made it's appear
ance in New York during the winter now
counts it's devotees by the thousand. and
nothing will be more popular for summer
wear than Japanese coats and kimonas,
one woman having even gone to the length
of building a Japanese home in the Adiron-
dacks, where she may live and dress this
summer as the japanese do. One of the
charms of the oriental in summer apparel
is the delightful GOODNESS of the silken gar
ments, with their thin, strong texture and
loose folds. untrmmed save for embroid-
cry such only orientals can do.
Happy even in the dog days, will be the
posseSsor of a number of cool and dainty
kimona coat in light silk, with panels and
broad bands of a contrasting color, with
flowers embroidered in all their natural
tints upon the fabric.
For morning wear in the house come
some of the prettiest little silk sacks mag
Unable. They scarcely cover the belt. but
fall in the front and have sleeves in hand
much as butterflies. These are of crimson,
lavender and various pale colors, trimmed
at the edges with embroidered bands of
several mingled colors, while over the ma
terial lightly scattered small wreaths
of delicately tinted flowers.
One pretty woman just over from Japan
is wearing a house dress of light lavender
silk decorated with flights of white cranes.
Another gown in which she daZzles less
fortunate acquaintance is of red silk, With
long clusters of wistaria blossoms in all
the tints known to that exquisite and fash
ionable flower, embroidered all over 1t. This
woman is also the owner of no less than
five of the prettiest evening coats that
ever came out of the land of the rising SUM-
The love of things oriental, however, eX-
tends far beyond the wearing of oriental
garments. Oriental SaShes are effectively
combined with white organdies and mulls
and oriental scarfs for the head and Shout
ders appear in silk gauZe. The latter are
particularly desirable when worn with lace
pelernes and collars. White oriental belts
buckles and jeweiry are worn with every
thing and every woman has her oriental
bag, in beads, leather or silver, with chate-
laine to match.
An odd conceit in summer shirt waists is
ments of a Chinese laundry ticket. These
are done in four or five colors on the box
pleats down the front of pongee and linen
waists. The work can be done quickly by
any woman accustomed to embroidery, and
is extremely effective. LovelieSt of all orr
entail decorations, however is an applique
made by cutting out the flowers embroid-
cred upon kmonas and applying them to
pongee The applications are usually made
down the front of the bodice and skirt
around the yoke and upon the neck and
sleeves and pongee frock so adorned takes
on a style and distinction that nothing else
can give.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-06-06

bore that name. The up-to-date waterproof
has a silky finish and is almost as gaily
colored as the wings of butterfly. All
the tartan plaids and many other plaids
and stripes are obtainable. Some are made
with hoods, others with military capes
The majority are trimmed with bands of
solid color. \ brown and white plaid
trimmed with broad band of brown both
down the front and finish for the
triple shoulder capes, makes stylish trav-
cling garment. Then there are silk coats
lined with rubber, which are both dressy
and serviceable.
Pongee and other light linen colored fab
rics are most suitable for the long coats,
whether full length or three-quarters. Most
of them are loose affairs, belted' in at the
waist for the sake of freedom of motion.
Their studied simplicity is in striking con-
trast to the pongee dress coats. Lace ard
enlbroideries are entirely out of place on
the travelling coat, and stitched bands of
the same or contrasting colors, or colored
pipings, are the only suitable trimmings.
With Black Trimmings.
One loose pongee travelling and coaching
coat has medium-sized black velvet buttons
and a deep turnover collar and cuffs of
black velvet The contrast between the
silky pongee and the dull tone of the velvet
is striking.
Among the three-quarter-length coats the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-06-06
Should Learn to Sew.
the New York Tribune.

From the New York Tribune.
81 can't SO much put a new braid on
the bottom of my skirts, said a young
woman-a young woman who earns $50 a
week with her pen
.But you can afford to hire all such work
done for you," added the elder woman
with her, land isn't that a good deal bet
ter than fussing around with it yourself?'
mo, / don't think so,' put in a girl
friend "I earn almost as much as Alice
here but I do all my nlending and MILL
merry and not little of my dressmakfng.
shouldn't dream of going out and buying
myself a fancy stock, for instance. / see
something 1 like then 1 make one like 1t.
My mother brought me up to be handy
with my needle, and, saving your pres
ence Alice think I'm all the richer for 1t
now"
"a woman doesn't seem like woman to
me unless she can handle her needle,
commented Alice's grandmother. One
doesn't have to do thing all the time just
because one knows how to do 1t. But read
your Goethes, young women. and you'll
find that the great German said it was
useful to know everything. When Lent
comes around again, Alice. would recon-
mend YOU to try rebraiding your gowns
and darning your stockings as a penance."
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-06-06
The Short-Skirt Gait.
iladelphia Telegraph.

From the Philadelphia Telegraph.
Don't think you can walk just any old
way in your short skirt. For you can't
that is, you want to win the coveted APP
pellation smart" At least. those who
study the art of dress say so. These critics
aver that the short-skirted girl must study
seriously the matter of her gait, for it is q
far more moment than when wearing long
er skirts. The steps should be small and
regular; they say that the Spaniards at
tach ribbon to each garter to keep their
pace even and regular. Be this taken for
what 1t is worth, there Is no doubt that
Spanish ladies have a most graceful walk
and carriage. The American woman who
led off with short skirts and is wholly re-
sponsible for either adoption will hardly
adopt method of gear to hamper her steps
and reduce her gait to a ''mince." But in
this suggestion there is hint for the girl
of the period to ponder over The gait
acquired the tennis court or golf field
will never give grace to a girl in ankle
high skirt, especially If she have feet that
her friends dub good understandings"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-06-06

PARIS, May q, 1908.
"Tout Paris will soon be vending its
way toward the many attractive summer
resorts which are conveniently near the
capital. Havre, of course. Is the great
tourist center, but as an abiding place for
any length of time it is too busy a seaport
and too commercial a town for comfort.
To the transatlantic visitor who simply
wants starting point Havre will be found
a splendid headquarters. The hotels there
are comfortable. the bathing is excellent
and the casino always bright and attract
i've. and the places to be reached from this
seaport are almost without number.
But the smart Partisan will seldom be
found within its gates. as Trouville is So
cietys Mecca. This Paris by the sea is
one of the gayest and smartest summer re-
sorts in all France. place where people
change their clothes with almost every
mood and spend the summer hours bath
ing, flirting, gambling, playing polo and
racing to their hearts content. That Trou-
VILE is fascinating and never dull for one
minute you well can see. 1t also affords
splendid opportunity to study the modes
and manners of Partisan society.
But while the modistes doing their ut
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-06-06
OFF FOR THE SUMMER.

tight-fitting corset model is the most styl-
ish. Although tan covert cloth seems to be
the favorite fabric, the woman in search of
novelty finds the style applicable to other
materials and shades.
A three-quarter-length coat made after
the corset model has the seams strapped
with bands of black cloth of a dull finish.
Another of black mohair has strappings
of black silk. 1t is predicted that strap
pings of a contrasting color will be used
as the season advances, but so far it is
only hearsay. excepting, perhaps, the cor
set coats of tan with strappings of leather
in slightly darker shade.
Short and Becoming.
For the woman who eschews long coats
a travelling suit is necessary. Short skirts
not the ballet type in vogue a season or
two ago, but modest skirts which escape
the ground only by an inch or two-are the
most serviceable. Yet. since to some minds
the aversion to short skirts is insurmount-
able long skirts are emnently correct even
for travelling. 1t is quite true that the
skirt coats now so fashionable look far bet
ter with a long skirt.
The simplicity of the travelling dress is
as studied as that of the travelling coat.
Light weight cheviots, mohairs, pongee and
linen-colored linens are the favorite fab
RIGS. Pipings and stitched bands furnish
the only acceptable trimmings. The travel
ing dress relies for effect on its cut, not
on it's ornamentation.
A stylish travelling suit is of light green
cheviot shot with white. Narrow vertical
tucks give a panel effect to the front of
the long, slightly fiaring skirt. The tight
fitting coat blouses slightly in the front 1t
has moderately deep skirt and is belted in
at the waist Tucks, similar to those on
the skirt, and black velvet buttons form the
trimming down the front. There is a turn
over collar of the velvet garnished at in
tervals with buttons. The sleeve flares
slightly to the waist over an inner sleeve
of the material. 1t is ornamented with
several wide vertical tucks. garnished with
the small black velvet buttons. The inner
sleeve has a cuff of the velvet.
In Cotton Cheviot.
A cooler travelling dress is of gray basket
weave cotton cheviot. The tght-fitting
waist is laid in deep vertical tucks, each
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-06-06
TRAVELLING TO|LETTES
Simplicity is the Keynote
for the Summer.
LONG COATS LIK ED
WALKING SKIRTS ARE MORE CON-
- VENIENT.
Natty Little Jackets and Short Waists
to Go With
Them.
Written for The Evening Star.

Written for The Evening Star.
Now that travelling days are near, it be-
hooves every woman to see that there is
something more substantial in her summer
wardrobe than frills and furbelows. The
picturesque hat, the dainty white lace coat,
and the filmy summer dress are sadly out
of place for even a journey of a few hours.
A long coat will cover multitude of
sins. and, therefore, will be in favor for
either short or a long journey. In the
choice of fabric care should be taken to
choose that which will not show dust and
which may be readily cleaned. Unless a
sea voyage is contemplated, light weight
coats will be found most Serviceable and
rainproof materials will be invaluable
The waterproof garment will be the ia
vorite for travelling with many women. Be
sides the cravenette rain coat, the old
fashioned waterproof is to be seen, but it
is unlike the dingy chrysalis which once
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-06-06
Doctors.
From Puck.

"
There are doctors of medicine, doctors of
law and doctors of divinity, to say nothing
of doctors of philosophy and veterinary
science.
All doctors look alike to the ignorant In
the celebrated dark ages, before America,
gunpowder and breakfast foods were dis
covered, people had about much faith in
doctors of divinity as in doctors of med
icine.
People used to worry some as to who
should decide when doctors fell out The
difficulty no longer occurs Doctors have
now fallen into such a pudding that they
are very careful not to fall out
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-06-06

The stitched linen hat has come into I'M
expected prominence. To the woman who
desires to be exclusive II has the charm of
being made to order to suit each costume.
When worn with a linen travelling suit ii is
bound with the same material which Is
used for the suit strapping.
II these simpler models do not suit any
individual woman she has a wide range of
more elaborate headgear from which to
choose. But she must see to it that her
choice does not violate the rules of travel
ing simplicity. Toques and turban effects
are the most practical. Flowers and
plumes must be avoided and ribbons and
quilts form the only trimmings. Champagne
and ecru are favorite colors in straw
Made hats are much in favor with women
OF FASHION. A stylish travelling toque is of
Diack and white chrysanthemum straw A
nat bow OF the straw mixed with black vel
vet ribbon ornaments on the left side
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-06-06

pose and show to advantage beautiful
toilet in beautiful surroundings. sup
pose this is a confession of weakness, but
the present modes do indorse the preacher S
statement, ''All is vanity" That sin this
summer absolutely stands at ones elbow
and animates by a thousand agreeable
promises. Ii is well we have a license for
this besetting fault in the assurance of an
authority like Pope, who in his famous
Essay on Man" informs his public that
mot a vanity is given in vain" Certainly
the beautifully gowned women Nine. Vani-
ty turns out ought to make Pope the poet
laureate for all time among the gentler SEX
The Thin Fabrics.
For the fete frock anything in the ma
ture of daphanous material is correct-silk
muslin. canvas, Grape. lawn, bastiste and
all the noble army of ailuring fabrics which
martyr our pocket book, but increase our
pride. How these creations shall be adorned
is the important question. With yards
upon yards of the most expensive thin lace
if you can stand the monetary pressure
or motifs and applications of coarse
weave, one wonders that the -filmy founda-
tons do not give way under the strain
Another illustration of the back being fitted
to its burden!
To come back to the trimmings, linen en-
broideries linen and silk hand needle
work applied on the material itself. filet
guipure or the daintieSt of gauzelike rib
garden gown. And again on gowns-how
shall I express it; not certainly more
elaborate creations for the lily has al
ready been painted but in the fashfoning
of more stately frocks-nothng is hand
somer than bangles as a trimming. These
eccentricities are formed of manipulated
satin sewed all over the gown. When en-
broidered buttons hung on silk cords, these
bangles and lace motifs unite forces, the
effect is exquisite En- PEASANT let me say
that these trimmings are equally happy in
effect upon linen gowns and a set of but
tons with an embroidered collar looks par
ticularly well on tailor costume.
Only Medium Trains.
The fete frocks of this summer will not
have the long trains of former days. their
length having been curtailed until now they
merely rest gracefully the ground. The
skirts are usually full, though fitted very
carefully around the hips. but for the I'M
compromisingly stout person the material Is
laid in tucks or plaits to the knee, where
it flares out in delicious frou frou sufi-
GENTLY fluffy for a sylph With the bolero
the last word has been said as to the make
of the bodices. 1t is here. there. every
where. in one form or another Its favor
lite development is the short plated sack
revealing underneath a plated blouse,
which is made trim at the waist by high
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-06-06
Reading!
From the Portland offgonian,

t FVIH inc ortIHHu u FsoIl'HNt
The average penson of so-called culture
who has leisure to readfFeads too much and
thinks too little. and in consequence their
talk lacks freshness and spontaneity An
eastern exchange, after saying that people
generally read too much and read more
than they carry. tells pleasant story of
a man who had been a great reader, but
had changed his ways. and when people
met him after he read less they found him
much more interesting. and SAID: How en-
PERTAINING John was today! He must have
been reading good deal" Reading, to be
valuable. is that pursued by persons whose
business it is to read a good deal, to think
and express their thoughts.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-06-06

drectore belt The chest and shoulders,
however. must be free from fussy details
which interfere with the outlines.
The sleeves are generally full and hang
ing, either falling in full folds to the wrist
or else the frill ends at the elbow, where a
baggy lace or muslin undersleeve is con-
tinued to the hand. The short sleeve is out
of commission except on distinctively even
ing gowns.
a charming garden frock has been fash
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-06-06

most to make us things OF beauty when so
journing at these summer resorts the
joyment Immediately at hand here in Paris
is the ever-charming garden parties. or, to
be exact. the pretty frocks one may wear
upon these festive occasions; for, you know.
it IS the gown that often makes the occa-
sion. 1t is so distinctly worth while to
dress for fete champetre. At an affair
of this sort the mise-en-scene is perfect.
and one has plenty of room in which to
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-06-06
Care with rinned Goods.

To use timed goods with perfect safety
employ the following infallible test of pres
ervation: Upon the first insertion OF knife
or punch listen for the distinct sound of q
small rush of air II this is to be heard
the preservation is perfect. Turn out the
contents of all tins Immediately upon thet1
being opened.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-06-06
The Deacon's Opinion.

From the Atlanta Constitution.
Yes. suh," said the old colored brother.
dat boy is so fond err tradin' dat 1 ve'ly
believes dat eff he WIZ in heaven, en- dey
let him come back fer holiday, he'd sell
his return ticket en- trust ter bein' blowed
back by harricane!'
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-06-06

He-If l should kiss you. what would
you do?''
she-.I never meet an emergency until
it arises"
But If 1t should arise?''
'rd meet 1t face to face."-Yale Record.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1903-03-28

There was a large turnout of the
members of the Research Society. and
some of their friends. at the offices of
Drs. Wood and Day. on Beretania
street, last night, to listen to discus
sion of the mosquito evil, and of some
suggested remedies for it. Mr.. d. L.
Van Dine. of the Government Expert
mental Station. was the first speaker,
talking to the habits of the pest. and
giving some points as to the best way
to combat it. Mr. Van Dine began by
telling Of certain experiments he had
made in determining what kinds of
mosquitoes were present in Honolulu
and in the Hawaiian Islands In the
first place. he had found here the COM
mon night mosquito found more or less
everywhere, only here it was so abun-
danc as to be recognized as a common
nuisance. decreasing the value of real
estate in some residence sections, and
greatly against the attrac-
tions of the country from tourist
standpoint. There was. however, a more
serious phase of the question in the
existence here also of the
day mosquito. the beast that in Ha-
gana was found to be a spreader of yell
low fever. This is really grave mat
ter. as in case of the introduction of
that fever here. at any time. the
of infection was also on hand
-eady to do business. The speaker had
sS.E.IsS.G.1.sl. .EsS.SsG.E.0oSs ssX.Kssss.eyslce