Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1903-12-24
NEW YORK FASHION LETTER
Perfect Gowns the Secret of Many =
WOmnn's Fame.

Perfect Gowns the Secret of Many
Womnn's Fame.
New York. Dec. "a perfectly gowned
woman is beautiful to look upon, and to
be faultlessly CARRIED requires uncom-
promising STANDARDIZATION Herein Hes
the secret of many woman's fame as
leader of fashion and to a lack of OBJ
disappointment many experience in dup
Heating a pretty gown which may have
been seen and admired.
Women who fail to study their weak
points, as we'll as their strong ones are
never successful dressers. AS one arhiter
of the modes expresses It, no detail should
be left unconsidered from the size of the
feet to the color of the hair.
There are several materials and colors
this season that either make or
mar one For instance take the new
shades of green. Never were the shades
daintier or prettier. but the dark tones
require radiant cheeks and bright spark
ling eyes, and woe to the pale-faced sis
ter who attempts to wear them. Then
there are pinks that fight the color OF
the hair If II is FURNISHED gold, bright
yellow or Titan brown. In its stead the
soft fiaky whites should be used; then
for very black hair there are warm reds,
pink and geranium tints.
~ chapter could be written on the sub
iety of styles OF arranging the coiffurs,
it IS the easiest matter possible to 60
WY. The fashionable little novelties for
nair, however. help to solve this problem
greatly. For long, slender faces there are
dainty wreaths of leaves or flowers, white
if the ears are a pretty pink and pink If
the cars lack color. For straight, OBJ
stinate hair there come fluffy little innita-
ton curls to be arranged around unlovely
forehedds and above the curls should be
worn a half wreath of leaves or flowers.
Very pretty punches of violets come for
decorating the couture, but a word of
warning must be given concerning them.
They should not De worn unless the gown
is OF harmonizing shade. Harmony and
contrast IS an important consideration
for hair, flowers and gown and so little
detail if neglected can offset an other
wise exquisite effect.
The way in which the mixed fabrics
have been overdono has resulted in a
return OF smooth-faced materials and
these are more elegant than ever Tho
long coat continues faVorite design for
street wear but with notifications.
Though the back remains close fitting.
there is a tendency to less and less draw
the front into the figure Then the square
effect is less often observed. Instead the
thrce-quarter coats are rounded away
from the front and bound with satin or
velvet. This is the most masculine Of
the seasons modes. for the great effect
this year has been to avoid anything that
IS not strictly womanly.
One Of the most picturesque materials
Just now is metal stray velvet It makes
really servic0ahle and handsome gowns
one very chic design has the blouse
gathered under a pointed yoke which
might also he called collar This opens
at the front showing a iabOt OF cream
lace on which are large buttons Of dark
IT,. 5-1s d., /
designs.
An effective feature of the toilette Is
the sleeves which are gathered Up the
inside seam from the top To the wrist and
are very Ions, Wrinklirg over the hand.
There is a wide girdle of panne velvet do
corated with a sun metal buckle studded
with amethySts.
The skirt flares smartY around the
bottom. but is rather plain Except
for a few strappings Of velvet pipcd with
white and secured here and there with
gray velvet buttons, there was no trim
ming on the skirt
Each season the fad for wearing light
wash shirt waists grows and this Is why
so many pretty designs are in the shops
4 few years ago it was quite ont "i
the question to buy a stylish lawn waist
In winter; but now such waists are dis
played in models that would DO credit 10
July or August sales, Pretty Cmhrc der
]
the favorite trimmings for these waists.
Very thin ones of French null and or
| candle can be worn over corset covers
Of pale blue and pink silk with dainty
effect
! For house dresses pretty mohairs IN
white pink, blue and pale green arc seen
| These appeal especially 10 women Of mod
crate income ms they are fash'onaol',
/ then wear forever and clean bc7uutu.lN-
/ Fringe and embroidery are tho trimmings
most used in its development and pretty
| designs for making up these mohairs are
plentiful.
| one shows an Eton Jacket over white
| lace blouse. The Jacket is bordered with
| heavy lace, three narrow box plaits rum
nirs from the shoulder 10 the edge ana
| a band of lace insertion bordering the
! plaits. Near the fiat collar on either side
| are two rosettes of satin with chenille
centres The sleeves have undercufs of
| lace and wristbands of mohalr trimmed
with embroidery and lace.
The skirt IS trimmed with three folds
OF the same material edged with lace and
a high girdle lends distinction TO the tot
lette.
The walking skirt is responsible for
many Of the pretty petticoats shown in
smart shops. Few Of these, however, arc
made OF the heavy stiff tafteta Of former
wears. Instead a softer silk is used which
| is Drettier with less of tho trouble which
some modistes have denounced as no less
chan vulgar and more lasting. For street
wear OF course nothing supercedes the silk
! petticoat but for the house dainty
lawns. batistes. organizes and even mulls
trimmed with innumerable frills hounccs
ruchngs, etc, are considered the correct
thing.
Elegant mufs that were justly regard
ed ms treasures a few years ago but lool
insignificant when compared with the
49,.
| Verted into collarettes, Stoles of velvet
trimmed with little animals heads ant
tails add to their elegance and also lenc
a touch OF originality
Little remnants of various gowns car
he made into really charming stocks anl
collars This idea is eXemplided in
model OF chiffon, crepe dc chine satin anC
lace. The foundation of the stock is pal'
blue crepe de chine yelled with white
chiffon. straps Of white satin are seweC