davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Washington times., 1903-07-19

in order to make a difference in the ap-
pearance OF the muslin gown.
Such gowns are. IL possible, more
beautiful than they ever have been. The
cost not being considered. the laces
chosen are OF the most beautiful quality.
The style in the princess or the founced
skirt and a high-necked blouse waist is
exceedingly simple I'm itself and the
beauty OF the gown of course consists
in the cut and fit and the hang OF the
skirt. The nounced skirts are becoming
TO some people-not TO everyone-ard
the waist 10 be In keeping with the skirt
should be trimmed with a fchu which.
like the fiounced skirt, of course makes
the figure seem shorter. so that tall.
slender woman really looks best I'm this
style Of gown
Embroidered muslin gowns are mar
vels OF fine workmanship and OF sheer
material and are exqUisitely smart. The
The Washington times., 1903-07-19

plan OF the frock is always simple. so
that the beauty OF the material can BE-
best displayed. A skirt that fts close
around the hips but flares around the
feet. with the embroidery down the front
breadth and around the foot of the skirt
and on the front of the waist and sleeves
is favorite design. But again the
flounced skirt is seen and the fchu is
trimmed with embroidered rufies instead
OF lace with a yoke above the flchu, also
OF the embroidery. and is as cool and
picturesque and attractive froek as
can we'll be imagined.
Old-fashioned looking ribbons with
flower design are made into belt and
sash ends TO wear with these gowns. and
the narrow velvet or satin ribbon is
fastened with a buckle in front When
the black velvet ribbon is used there are
little straps OF the black velvet occa-
sionaliy used 10 hold the sleeves to-
The Washington times., 1903-07-19

all-white fashion is beginning to be-
come tired, and now it would seem as
though colored gowns wers gradually
coming to the front as regards popular
favor, and certainly there never have
been such exquisite specimens Of col
ored muslins to be seen as this year. .
Fad for Hand Painted Muslin.
Manipulated. or so beautifully woven
as TO look like hand painted. muslins are
quite the newest things. Exquisite in
coloring and design. made up deliberately.
that is, after some elaborate model. some
flower like a rose being chosen. and the
idea carried out with hat. wrap. and
gown TO match. Again. with garIands or
wreaths or bands of roses painted or
woven into material, which in itself is of
a pale rose color, with ribbons Of
darker shade of rose. and the hat made
entirely of roses or muslin and roses
The fancy for heliotrope and mauve is
also seen in this style. for there are
gowns on which are painted Iilacs or
heliotrope; then the ribbons are on the
same coloring. the laces are embroidered
with the same flowers in silk of a darker
The Washington times., 1903-07-19

twenty-five thousand dollars a year
an extravagant sum for clothes A
woman who has been living for ten
years in foreign parts held UP her hands
in horror when some one who knows as
serted that all those dollars are spent
each year on fine raiment by the wife OF
an American millionaire.
That is more by many thousands than
any royal woman in Europe spends per
annum for her wardrobe" asserted the
returned native. When l was last in
Paris / met one of the ladies-in waiting
to the consort of crowned head whose
income is ample. We talked clothes, ana
the lady-in- waiting assured me that
royal women. with rare exceptions. are
not extravagant in dress.
In the days before her husband
death Queen Margharita's clothes cost
the private royal purse about fifteen OF
eighteen thousand dollars year, ex-
elusive Of her purchases of lace and
jewels. But the Queen was n beauty,
and her husband insisted that she must
lead the fashions in his country. thereby
giving a stimulus 10 trade. Further
more. she was blessed with exquisite
taste
The most eXtravagant royal lady at
present is the Queen OF Holland She
orders nearly everything from Paris. but
has bad taste, and loves bright coIors.
spangles. and long ostrich plumes. She
The Washington times., 1903-07-19

gether, the straps with the ends slipped
through small fancy buckles. Pale blue
velvet and the rose pink velvet is some
times used for this purpose. and then
the hat made ot lace OF muslin to
match the gown has the same velvet
ribbon trimming and also flowers 81 the
same shade. for everything must needs
match in order to be fashionable.
Plain eolored batistes trimmed with
white lace are very fashionable again
this year. those or tan-a very Iigh;
shade OF tan-or pale yellow being ex-
cecdingly smart All muslin frocks are
made or should be made over a silk
foundation, and between the silk foun-
dation and the outer skirt must needs
be an inner skirt OF lawn or book mus
lin finished around the foot with many
nounces and ruffes of lace. so as TO give
IL the fluffy. full appearance thought so
desirable in all gowns at present.
The Washington times., 1903-07-19

hates to wear a gown twice, and will
never use again gloves or stockings that
have been worn even for half an hour at
a court function. Her bills must run up
to nearly twenty thousand a year but
the Partisan drecsmakers ask her all
sorts OF fancy prices because she is roy
al and cannot haggle over items.
The divorced Grand Duchess OF Hessa
spends nearly as much as the Queen Of
Holland. She is now a semi-private in
dividual but ranks as the best-dressed
royal woman in Europe. Her gowns are
wonders OF taste and elegance Her
friends say should a wave OF democracy
spread over Europe the Duchess Of Hesse
could earn her fortune by designing
clothes for rich Americans
High as is her reputation for fine
dressing. the Queen OF England does not
spend penny over ten thousand a year
She never appears at court functions
twice in the same gown. Something like
eight gorgeous frocks are ordered each
year for her in Paris. Each one is worn
once. and then her staff of salaried
seamstresses recasts &c for her private
evening wear She keeps four accom-
plished women steadily at work the year
around. and only once in a while, for
policy's sake, does she order 4 frock
from some prominent London tailor or
mantua maker. She gets a batch OF hats
each season from Paris, and when one
has appeared at a function II is recast
and worn again and again in private So
ciety.
The Empress Of Germany is the only
The Washington times., 1903-07-19

good color schemes. and Il something
very extra IS wished three threads
black, light blue. and shrimp pink-are
very rich, all three being worked in at
once.
The work is actually darned through
the loose threads, the color all being
on the surface. and not a single stitch
should show on the wrong side unless
there is an open space 10 be left be-
tween two lines. in which case the
thread must be taken through to the
other side. II possible the threads
should be long enough 20 follow out
one line of the pattern. but in case a
new thread must be taken a small but
very secure knot may be used 10 begin
with
The bands here illustrated. being fin
ished in points, can be adapted in many
ways. but will be found especially good
worked on the box plat of shirt waists
from the shoulder down as far as de-
sired. In No 1 the work will be found
quite simple If the hexagons are worked
frst. as the dotted lines show, then the
other lines. making an elaborate and in
trieate pattern when finished.
In No. , the thread must be carried
under the material. making stitch On
the wrong side. and after TIE outside
lines are worked il viii not be at all
difficult to finish the pattern.
These bands are suitable also for The
ends Of bureau scarfs. work bags. sash
curtains. or anything one can think OF
that can be made Of the toweling. A
beautiful centerpiece and plate doiiies
can be made by hemstitehing and work
ing a simple band all around inside. the
centerpiece having corners like those IL
Illustrated worked in two shades Of green,
one very pale. the other one quite dark.
and what more serviceable than a tray
cover with such corner darned in two
shades of blue?
Any design Is excellent for a work bag
when followed out in pale lavender and
4 medium shade OF yellow For the
fringe. raveI out about five inches OF
;he buck. and. making a fine knot on
the wrong side draw through alternate
threads OF lavender yellow and black.
about a quarter OF an inch apart. cut
ting il OF the length of the other fringe
Now knot these together in some simple
manner. and desirable and useful bag
viii be the result. 1t may have q casing
and ribbons to draw it together and be
stitched all around on the machines.
and it will be as good as new each time
IL IS washed
The Washington times., 1903-07-19
Darneo Shirt
Waists Stylish

Tn the old days. when our grand
mothers. or even our mothers, were
young, darning meant either rents
in gowns to be neatly drawn together
or stockings 10 be mended. But now
darning is a pastime. an art, an accom-
plishment. II you will; but one need not
be possessed of a patient mind or even
an artistic soul to make for herself one
Of the new darned waists now shown in
the shops. shirt waists are. the most
elaborate of the mnny pretty things
made Of this curious old-fashioned huck
toweling.
The material is bought by the yard at
any linen store, and costs from Is to 50
cents yard. according to the quality
and width. The best for the work ia
quite coarse, and as the loops or threads
through which the pattern is worked are
large and loose, the work will be found
not at all trying to the eyes. rather
large-eyed needle IS used. and must be
threaded with two threads Of working
cotton OF different colors. Dark blue
and rcd are the best colors II the article
is to go TO the laundry often, but there
are many beautiful combinations which
will stand an ordinary amount Of wash
ing very well. The effect OF an "old
bleach" waist. with cuff bands, strips
down box plat in front. and stocks,
darned in turquoise blue and black. is
very good AS the two threads are
darned in at the same time, It is some
times the blue and sometimes the black
which shows the most Pale blue and
dark blue, light green and black, dark
blue and green. pink and black are all
The Washington times., 1903-07-19

shade. and the hat is always entirely
Of the flowers or Of lace trimmed with
them.
From the description these flower
gowns may seem to be just little the
atrical. In reality they are artistic and
charming without being too conspicuous
even where the idea is carried out in
red or yellow poppies
The bluets or corn flowers allow for so
many different shadings OF blue that the
woman to whom blue is becoming can
/ look delightfully."- smart and well gowned,
and the woman TO whom pink is the more
becoming can choose just the right shade
to suit her especial style OF beauty.
The only mistake that can be made
with these musIins is when no regard is
/ paid as to whether the colors are be-
/ coming, and when. consequently. too
/ bright effects are chosen. and ones that
make the complexion look sallow, or. by
/ being Of too brilliant and youthful
| tint. make the weaver look years older
than her age.
There is really no excuse for unbecom-
/
! there are so many different designs and
so many different shades of color that
the elderly woman can find what is
suited 10 her just as well as can a young
girl whose fresh brilliancy OF complexion
can stand anything.
AS a rule there are very few small
figures or designs on the muslins this
season. The figures are rather indef-
mite ones unless the regular flower de-
sign is seen.
There are number OF silk muslins
Of Persian patterns or OF indefinite
flower designs. the groundwork Of which
is blue-a dark biue-but which are
made up in red, and the effect thus
gained Is much richer and really better
than when the blue. like the background
OF the design is chosen.
There are black muslins with coIored
figures that are unusually good and
some very good all black ones with en-
broidered dots. The greatest objection
20 all black muslins Is that they soon
become rusty. but in these days OF lux
ury no gown is worn long enough to
become shabby. and the elaborate trim
mings OF black lace or embroidery or
the white lace-for that is now used
with black great deal-rather help
TO hide any defect that comes after the
gown is worn a few times
All these lowered muslins are in
themselves so elaborate that they really
do not require as much trimming as the
plain ones. A favorite style OF trim
ming is the shirring and putting that is
put on to form a p.ncesse yoke: again
at the top Of the sleeves and a founce
around the bottom of the skirt. finished
with a narrow ruching Of the muslin
with such q gown as this no lace is re-
quired at all. and yet, II 50 desired,
where the shirrings of the muslin are
used. lace can be substituted
There are exquisite shadings and com
binations in purple. for purple is be
coming more and more fashionable again
and both the dark and light shades are
used. while a charming effect is gained
by using the black aud white muslin
either over pale blue or pale mauve and
then having ribbons for belt and collar
OF wherever ribbons are used, 10 match
F, the lining.
All these hundred and one devices are
| necessary, as can easily be understood /.
The Washington times., 1903-07-19

royal woman who never orders a stItcn
in Paris. When she desires something
that the tailors or milliners in the faith
erland cannot supply. she resorts to vi
emma For a German woman, she dresses
ia good taste and does not spend every
year the ten thousand allowance she re-
ceives for this purpose.
The Czarina has. it is said. an allow
ance of twenty thousand dollars for
dress. With the exception of her superb
state gowns, built exclusively for court
functions. she dresses with nun-like Sc
veritv in black. She is careless almost
10 the point OF neglectfulness ia ,ress.
and this is strange. for she loved i, when
a girl and is beautiful enough TO set OF
the finest Jewels and fabrics"
The Washington times., 1903-07-19
AZ IpsuMMER WEATHER.

r n IDSUMMER WEATHER. even
I'M though the season be cool and
wet. demands that there shall
be thin gowns worn. and ever since
the season of two years ago. when the
thermometer ran up into the nineties
and stayed there. dressmakers and i'm
porters have instituted fashion that
demands the very thinnest of fabrics
for summer wear. Those same gowns
are this year made up by the dozens
for different outfits. for it is no longer
possible to get along with one or even
two gowns of the kind. There must be
any number TO choose from. alike only
in so far that the materials are thin
and that the general design is the
same. but most elaborate and most
varied in trimming and in general eff
feet. as we'll as in coIoring.
White, all white, is always supremacy
fashionable, and for the last two or
three seasons-that is, including winter
and summer-the all-white costume has
been considered the smartest that a
woman can wear. But even with the
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1903-06-20
THE ALLEGED INTERVIEW
Dealt With the Ex-Presdent's Return
to Public Life.

New York, June 19-The alleged in
tervieW to which Mr.. Cleveland objects,
credited him with saying that 1t was
absurd to suppose for an instant that
he had any desire to re-enter public
life or to have even remotely entertain
ed the thought since he left Washing
ton six years ago ,a...-
The article further says that the ex-
President deprecated what his friends
had done towards advancing the So
called Cleveland movement and quoted
him as saying that he had never spoken
to anybody on the subject of q fourth
candidacy and never written to a po
litical friend one way or another nor
had been written to or spoken to by
them. He was also quoted as saying:
There is not political leader of
any prominence endeavoring to advance
any movement to nominate me in any
state, so far as l have been advised
nor do l anticipate that any such eff
fort will be made by any leader. prom
inent or obscure, in any locality in the
country. In this respect the situation
Is more than pleasing"
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1903-06-20
NO COMPROMISE MADE.
Keene and Hartman interests in
Southern Pacific Still Unsettled.

Cincinnati Ohio, June 19.-Contrary
to the report that a compromise has
been effected in New York between the
Keene and Hartman interests and that
the Southern Pacific Railway suit had
been settled, brief containing senSa-
tional allegations was filed, today, by
counsel for the appellants.
Twenty-siX arguments were ad-
vanced in behalf of the appellants to-
restrain the Hartman element from
voting the Union Pacific holdings in
the Southern Pacific election. Included
in the arguments are allegations among
which are:
The Union Pacific and the Southern
Pacific Roads, being competitors, it was
a violation of public policy, and hence
illegal, for the Union Pacific to acquire
control of the Southern Pacific by pur-
chasing and voting it's stock. The proof
shows that it is within the power of
the Union Pacific to practice abuse and
discrimination against the Southern
Pacific. The proofs show that discrim-
ination has been practiced in making
expenditures on the Central Pacific.
From the affldavits it appears that twice
rs much money has been expended from
the earnings of the entire Southern Pa
ciflc system of about 5000 miles, on the
ST. miles of the Central Pacific Rail-
road between Ogden and San Francisco
rs has been expended on the remaining
5000 miles.
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1903-06-20
ONE JUROR SAVED HIM.
Curtis Jett Had Benefit of One Mans
Vote on Murder Charge.

Jackson, Ky, June 19.-But for one
juror, Curtis Jet would have been con-
victed here, today, for the murder of j.
Il. Marcum, and a majority of the jury
also favored the conviction of Thomas
White. Both are tonight, almost 100
miles from home in ajil at Lexington
and their next trial will be at Cyntht-
ana more than 100 miles from Jackson
away from the mountains in the Blue
Grass region, under very different con-
ditions from those existing in Breathitt
county.
There Is general confidence In the
surroundings of the next trial. III the
verdict had been one of conviction, the
residents here feel that violence would
have followed and that 1t would nave
extended to others than witnesses,
jurors and those who had taken part
In the prosecution.
The next case on the docket here, was
that of Curtis Jet for killing the town
marshal, James Cockrill, but 1t VIII De
postponed until after the trials at
Cynthiana.
Cot Williams Is at Frankfort, To-
night, comforting with the governor re-
garding the withdrawal Of the troops.
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1903-06-20
FIRE AT ROCHESTER.
A $4,000 Blaze Easily Started-Loss
viii Be Heavy.

Rochester, N. Y, June 19.-Fire was
discovered in Fee Bros wholesale
liquor house on Water street, near Main
at 7.30 o'clock, this evening. 1t origin
ated in a sub-basement occupied as a
wine cellar below the bed of the river
flush on the bank of which the building
stands. One floor has already fallen
and carried with 1t barrels of whiskey
which add to the fury of the flames. The
loss so far is estimated at $150,0O0.
The sensational feature was the at
tempt of the firemen to fight the fire
from the rear of the building. To do
this ladders We're lowered into the bed
of the river and three firemen carried
hose through an adjoining building and
jumped into the river. They stood in
water up to their shoulders, holding
the hose directed on the burning build
ing.
Several firemen have already been in
jured by falling glass and overcome
with smoke.
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1903-06-20
THEY WANT WORK.
The Lowell Strikers Are Ready
to Talk Business.
Unions Will Meet, Today and Sunday
mo Doubt of Action.
Three Months Ideness and Loss of Pay
for Strikers.

Lowell, Mass, June 19.-The general
strike of the textile operatives will IN
all probability be officially declared off
by the Textile Council at the meeting
of that organization, Sunday afternoon.
Unions affiliated with the central body
of cotton mill operatives will hold spe-
cial meetings, tomorrow and Sunday
morning, to act on the question and
there is hardly a doubt that they will
decide to return to work. The strike
leaders still maintain, however, that
the settlement of the difficulties is
just as far off as ever and declare that
a false construction has been placed on
their message to the manufacturers
f While the sentiment OF the strikers
appears to be decidedly in favor of sur
render; no action has been taken by
any Of the unions, although three spec
iai sessions were held, today.
The mule spinners appear to favor
the plan to return to work, but they
will insist that the places of all the
strikers be restored If possible to the
men who go back. With this in view
the agents Of the corporations were in
terviewed by committees from the mule
spinners, today. Agent Connell Of the
fremont and Suffolk mills refuses to
recognize the union, but the other
manufacturers have not expressed
themselves on this point
Because one of the members Of the
union owed six weeks dues which he
refused to pay go spinners in the Mid
dlesex wooden mills walked out, today,
after Agent Saunders declined to dis
charge the delinquent. Nearly 300
operatives We're thrown out of work
by the action of the spinners.
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1903-06-20
A HEALTHY COUPLE
An Old Soldier of go Had Some Coffee
Experience.

An old soldiers wife described her
coffee experience as follows: MY hus-
band and l have been accustomed to
the use of tea and coffee for very
great many years and we were very
fond of the coffee.
Some time ago we received from a
box that included package of Postum.
I prepared some without reading direc-
tons and my husband said o nom
sense this tastes just like the crust
water that was one of the Injuries
they allowed to invalids SO years ago.
Then I looked up the directions, made
the Postum as it should be made and
we both found it delicious.
My husband Is a broken-down SOL
der and was a dyspeptic and suffered
from severe headaches but from the
time we commenced to drink Postum
we have not taken a cup of tea or
coffee. During the hot weather we
have eaten no meat, depending fer
food upon Grape-Nuts. My dear hus-
bands headaches have disappeared
since we left off the coffee and began
Postum, and I find myself mentally
stronger and much better able to con-
centrate my thoughts than for sew
eral years past. Husband has a good
appetite now and nothing disturbs his
stomach.
Il believe that when mothers come
to pay more attention to their chill
drens' diet there will be more health
and happiness in the world and in do
nestle life generally. Little by little
this change must come.
Yours very sincerely for all that
pertains to health and happiness. Use
our names If you wish" Names fur
nished by Postum Co, Battle Creek,
Mich.
This letter is in the hand writing of
the old lady herself and there are
many people half her years who cam
not write half so good letter. The
case is one of remarkable vitality and
apparently the only ills of their old
age were those due the coffee drinking.
These disappeared when Postum was
used in place of coffee.