The Saint Paul globe., 1903-08-30

suitings is most practical investment
at this season, and, made with walking
skirt and fitted coat, can be relied upon
for outing or morning use for much Of
our winter weather. The Norfolk jack
ct suit in mixed browns, with a red
thread running through, which is
among the sketches here, is a particu-
larly good outing model.
Norfolk Model Up to Date.
The epaulettes run underneath the
shoulder plaits are new touch that
marks this Norfolk model as up to
date Less severe is a green cloth
made with double skirt of walking
length and cape reaching to the ell
bows and held in front by buttons and
cords. From beneath all the cloth
edges drops band of pale biscuit
cloth, Of which four inches slleWss
If blouse and skirt or shirtWaist
suit is preferred to a coat and skirt
costume, there are many light weight
woods acceptable for such use. Trim
costumes Of serge or cheviot, made in
severe slHrt-waist suit fashion and re-
lieved by effective scarfs, stocks, and
possibly colored stitchings, are service
able cool weather substitutes for the
silk shirt-waist frocks, which have
been popular all summer, but will be
too cool when tinG1ing fall days come.
Still more modish for the purpose are
the almost invisible checks and plaids
so numerous among the new samples.
A model shown in Fifth avenue shop
is of the greatest severity. 1t Is Of
light weight, smooth surface wool, in
the tiniest Of black and royal blue
checks and has a plain box plated
skirt devoid of trimming. but faring
amply at the bottom.
The blouse is equally p1ain-a plaft-
ed shirt waist with epaulettes running
we'll down upon the sleeve and finished
by tiny dull gold buttons. Groups Of
the buttons ornament the front plait.
and the shirt cuff is held by similar
buttons.
To Complete the Frock.
A fflded girdle of black glace silk and a
stock of the same silk complete the
frock, and linen turnover collars and
cuffs worked in black and blue French
knots and edged with buttonholed seal
lops of blue give a note of relief to the
dark but chic frock.
The skirts of these morning frocks
should clear the ground, and flare lib
orally at the foot, and as this flare is
likely to degenerate into Topping and
awkward fullness In a plated skirt
and if it is arranged in stitched plaits,
then the skirt must be cut SO that those
plaits will not cling in the back. A host
much attention should be given to OBJ
tanning a petticoat that will hold the
dress skirt in place. The ordinary silk
skirt will not do this, and even the
very expensive silk petticoats amply
frilled and plated cannot always be
relied upon to support the short skirt,
although they answer admirably for
wear under sweeping dress skirts.
French dressmakers are experiment.
ing with carefully cut and slightly
stiffened petticoats made especially for
use with the trottoir skirt, which is the
French equivalent for our walking
skirt; and if the exaggerated fullness
around the feet which the French IA
vor wins general acceptance a petit
coat with featherboning or with hair
cloth set into it's shaped f1ounce will
be necessity. The average walking
skirt punching itself Imply around the
feet is distressing sight, and utterly
devoid of the trim smartness which
should be the essential characteristic
of the trotting skirt.
Skirt Should Fit SnueIy.
One more word Of protest to the
wearers of walking skirts. Let the
skirt fit snugly, though not too snugly
around the hips, and stitch its plaits
fiat in front, and at the sides if de-
sired, but at all cost avoid the skirt
which is stitched so fatty in the back
and cut SO badly there that 1t curves
into the body in the back as well as at
the sides. The line resulting from such
cutting is hideous and makes a large
proportion of the women who are
wearing short skirts ridiculous.
The line In the back from hip to hem
should be a gradual slope, a straight line
of ready made skirts have this fault. and
the woman buying a walking skirt should
guard against any such mistake.
Agreat many of the newest tailored