Albuquerque daily citizen. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1895-1903, 1903-05-16
MAUD GRIFFiNS'
NEW YoRk
FASHION LETTER

Is said and written about the super
iority of important gowns. a compare
tive study of Paris and New York fash
ion shows Gotham's creations to no
disadvantage whatever. Indeed one
smart matron whose summer ward
robe had just arrived is really lament
ing the fact that her outfit surpasses
her ~neighbor's A~merican-made gowns
only in price and French trademark.
This. of course, speaks well for
American taste and ingenuity which
seems to nave reached the climax In
this seasons modest Summer Goa
are by means new, for we have had
them in pongee, canvas, wolfe, etamine,
taffeta and cloth, but the latest novel
ty in this direction beggars descrip-
ton. 1t is a delightful coat of grass
linen made over to complete the fash
ionable ensemble than to add to com
fort, for il merely a trife Eight as air
and billowy as sea foam"
The design is very loose-fitting with
an inverted box plat running down the
centre of the back. over the should
ers there is draped a pointed collar
OF linen edged with the finest of thread
lace and haud-embroidered. At the
front the collar extends in a long stole
to the bottom of the coat which is a
little less than th~ree-quarters length.
At either side of the front the skirt
of the coat is slashed to a depth of
nine inches, the incision being lace
bordered and finished at the top with
tassels of silk and chiffon.
A similer design suitable for morn
ing wear is carried out in heavy butch
er's linen embroidered with linen
threads. The sleeves have deep cuffs
of embroidery and the round sailor
color is trimmed in the same elegant
way. The coat is laid in box plaits
from neck and hem and confined at the
beltline with a band of embroidered
linen.
Many of the canvass. pique and linen
suits for summer are finished with the
coats instead of the regulation eton
Jackets. They are roomier and more
suggestive of comfort on sizzling days
than is the close-itting Elton, so this
is probably one of the chief reasons
why they enjoy such high favor.
There is no end to the possibilities
of the lawn dress. This general term
includes all of the thin washable goods
which can be as costly as silk or as
cheap as cotton. Green is the coolest
and most delightful shades is being
used for dainty summer frocks. A
very fetching design has the skirt
made with a yoke over the hips com
posed of shirring. while medallions OF
lace axe let in, coming to a point in the
front and fitting the hips closely. Be
low the yoke the skirt falls very full
with wide tuckings round the bottom
and a long sweeping train at the back
The dress is made over a slip of taft
eta. which can easily be duplicated il
lawn trimmed with ruffies of the sam,
material, edged with lace at the bot
tom of the skirt.
The bodice has a deep yoke formed
like the yoke on the skirt of shirrings
and lace medallions let in; tiny
horizontal tuckings compose the vest
which into the waist quite full
blousing in front and hooking up thu
back with an apple-green silk girdl'
round the waist. The sleeves are tuck
ed quite tight to the elbow, with yer.
full mandolin cuffs appliqued with tn
lace falling to the wrist and gathere,
into a clerical cuff of lawn and lace.
A notable feature of the linen frock
which promise to become eXasperal
ingly popular, is the short skirt; bu
what one saves on the skirt must b
expended in the boot, so, as far a
money is concerned, the matter is a
broad as il is long. With a short ski
enc has the choice of a high boot-pa
ent leather, almost every time-or
shoes and stockings chosen for eac
other. Grey, pale blue, champaign
bIege and mauve suede shoes with pre-
cisely matching stockings are not t
be despised, and are really very elt
CANT in effect. This fashion woul
have been out of place until recently
but my lady modish seems to be gel
ting further and further away froI
the conventions of earlier days, an
as long as the artistic sense is nc
shocked almost any make is permi
sible.
The woman who wishes to eXpar
her wardrobe by retouching last sc
sons gowns should consider chief
her figure. Everything depends up
a perfect outline. A trained skirt
quite wrong with the dropping sho
der line, and a touch of white tends
lend the figure ~fullness. A VIII
yoke in a bodice gives the appearan
o. shoulder depth and breadth. VIII
a ~lat-chested figure can be toned
in the me- stunning fashion by
use of white vests. jabots and 9th
trimming down the center OF the fro
The corpulent sisterhood shot
cling 10 the touch of black. for no