The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1903-10-24

New York. Oct 24-The observer
Of women and fashions will have no
tlced that black gowns are taking a
foremost place on the lis of ultra
Smart toiIettes again. While 1t has
never disappeared from the up-to
date wardrobe entirely, 1t has been
neglected to some extent by women
whose figures would not permit it.
Of coure among the stout sister
hood black will always be the piece
de resistance of fashions, for nothing
go effectively offsets the result of ma
lures generosity and which is very
necessary when slenderness ant
grace are the most important ele
ments in the fashion of the realm.
A fashionable modiste who is as
generous in her advice as she Is
clever with her needle, advises that
where only one black gown can be
had to make it an evening frock
Aside from the fact that it can be re
touched often during the season ana
made to appear as two or three dlf
FeTent tOilettes. it can be gu1mpeo
with a bit of handsome lace Or en-
nroidery and worn when visiting OF
attending semi-formal afternoon at
fairs
A pretty design fulfilling these re
quirements is carried out in silk
crepe de chine. The skirt is tucked
IN groups around the hips and alter
A.
shaped medalliOns of cluny lace from
under which the material is cut Civ
ing a glimpse of a lustrous liberty
satin petticoat From the knees to
the feet there falls a deep flounce OF
crepe de chine also tucked and en-
hroidered
Through the medallions on the
IounCe. however, one catches an Oc-
GasiOnal glimpse of distracting
Black AMI white effect which puzzles
shile it pleases. The secret lies in a
soluble f1ounce of black and white chif-
Eon which is used to trim the satin
netticoat. The ruff1e is edged with a
rnching of black chiffon edged with
aace
The bodice fits over a perfect fit
Eing satin lining and has inserts of
The medallions up and down the cen
ssr of the back and across the should.
cts. A novel idea is worked out by
having a border Of black lace around
the medalliOns under which are
Smothered layers of black and white
chiffon; the effect gives the waist
unch of the appearance of an entire
lace bodice and is very chic.
On either side Of the front the
trimming used in the back is repeat
ed. The vest is of black chiffon over
chiffon, the satin being omitted tC
make the ensemble as soft and grace
fnl as possible MedalliOns of silk
zhread lace are interviewer in the chit
1On and at occasional intervals there
are roses of black pearls with chit
ton leaves.
The sleeves are tucked to the ell
bow and fit rather close from this
point to the wrists The scant puff
however is slit up the back and ar
a1nder cuff of chiffon to match the
vest inserted. The wristband is com
posed simply of a pointed band o.
Eace.
The upper part of the vest broad
ems from the bust-line to the should
Grs and across the back into yoke
effect finished with simple drapery
Of chiffon. This, when removed
converts the toilette into a delightful
evening gown
Simpler designs can be produced
after the same pattern, using valen
Ciennes lace and less of it and albat
TOSS, wool crepe Of an inexpensiv,
Toile. A touch of color could be ef
fectively added also in a piping O
pale rose panne at the throat an
around the wristbands.
October brides have contributed
number of novel ideas to the season
modes. Rich. crepe de Paris, MUSE
line and old lace have taken the plac
Of the time-hOnOred satin in many O
The prettiest bridal dresses of autumn,
A delicious model in crepe de Pari;
varying from snow to oyster white
mas the skirt cut after the circula
pattern with round train. The boz
tom is finished with a half inch her
above which two tucks of the sam
width appear. From the knees up t
The edge Of a hip yoke of rare old lac
rows Of shirring are grouped fe'
inches apart in pointed effect an
gathered over thick white silk cord.
The entire gown is made over whit
taffeta silk.
Nothing could be simpler than tn
bodice, 1t is fashioned with a dee
round yoke of finely tucked chitfo1
over which is laid a deep circula
collar Of lace to match that upon th
nip yoke of the skirt. The materi;
is gathered very full across the fro1
10 fall in a graceful blouse over
girdle ofcrushed white satin. Th
sleeves are made with caps fttin
close to about four inches below th
shoulders, when they expand sudiel
" into one glorious p,fp which 4,