The Savannah morning news., 1903-07-05
POWERED MUSLINS
AND DOTTED SWISSES
FOR MIDSUMMER
BY HARRIET HAWLEY.

sheerer frabrics. The faded bios
SONS of earlier summer bloom again
on the delicate batistes and muslins
The heavy laces which have been so
popular seem coarsened by contrast
with such daintiness. so that valen-
ciennes and the other fine thread laces
will be much used for trimmings.
Flowered muslins in particular have
been caught up on the wave of popu-
larity. When made up with shirrings,
ruchings and ruff1es they certainly
make ideal summer gowns. They may
be unlined for the sake of GOODNESS, or
the pattern may be strikingly brought
out by an underslip of silk or wash
material. This latter fashion admits
of a change of slip for the same gown,
thus doubling or trebling its adaptable
ity for every occasion.
The lowered muslins have found
anotehr use. They form the trim
mings of many gown in white OF
solid color, for they are dainty in
ruff1es or ruchings. Thus a dress OF
white India linen has the skirt cut
with seven cores on a tight-fitting
model. 1t is trimmed with triple
fiounces graduating in width from four
TO eight inches. These, and the grace
full fichu which redeems the tight-flt-
ting waist from plainness, are of white
muslin, figured with scattered peoples
in a vivid scarlet. So also are the
ruffles which finish the elbow sleeves.
With a silk sash of the scarlet, the
costume is striking, though simple
Another frock of pink mulle-not a
staring pink but delicate shade such
as tints the petal tips of a blush rose
has ruff1es of white. figured with
shaded pink roses and green foliage.
The skirt has them narrow but ex-
tremely full running around from knee
to hem. The waist has a yoke of
open-work embroidery. Below this
the pouch front is covered with the
tiny Powered ruff1es. The upper part
of the sleeves are laid in fine vertical
tucks Below the elbow they broaden
out into huge puffs, which are also
covered with the ruffling. The wide
sash, which is tied in the back in a
loose long ended bow, is of the flow
cred muslin.
A pretty batiste gown is in a floral
pattern. The printing! wreath of
jasmine intertwined with maidenhair-
is unusually artistic. Nor is it's beauty
marred by over-trimming. Bands of
two-inch wide cluny lace insertion
mark the nine cores of the flowing
skirt. The waist is equally simple.
Wide Gibson pleats give fullness to the
loose pouch front. Alternating with
these are short bands of the lace i'm
sertion, which give a yoke effect. The
sleeves are tucked to the elbow, where
the fullness escapes in a huge puff.
This, in turn, is drawn into deep-point
ed cuffs of the batiste. The cuffs are
bordered by bands of the cluny and
similar band forms the collar. The
touch of black velvet at throat and
waist adds piquancy.
Another black and white batiste is
made in a more elaborate fashion. The
| skirt is slightly shirred over the hips
to give fullness. Below the knee it is
cut into square tabs. These are edged
by twisted folds of black tulle and fall
over a full ruff1ed underskirt. The ruff
| fies are OF the batiste edged by a half
| inch fold of the tulle. The waist has
a rather tight-fitting zouave jacket of
the batiste, edged with the twisted tulle.
| IT is worn over a loose blouse of white
| linen, which is drawn down into a deep
| girdle ceinture of folded black tulle.
The tight-f1tting elbow sleeves end in
| short tabs edged with the twisted tulle.
! From beneath these fall flowing angel
| ruffles bordered by folds of black tulle.
| Point d'esprit in both black and white
effects and dotted Swisses are much
used for midsummer dresses. The lat
ter are charming in different colors.
! White, dotted with blue and green, are
among the latest favorites.
A dark blue Swiss, dotted in the
same shade, is used in making a strik-
ing costume. 1t embodies the fashion
| of appliqueing the dress material on
white as trimming. This is a feature
of the most chic gowns of the season.
1t means a considerable outlay of time
and SKILL but not more so than char
acterizes most of the summer creations
| The result justifies the expenditure
The skirt of the dark blue dotted Swiss
has pin tucks regulating the fit over
the hips. 1t has a wide graduated
flounce around the bottom. trimmed by
| seven rows of the pin tucks-this time
running around the skirt. The head
of the tiounce is hidden by six-inch
band of the applique work. This is of
| the dotted Swiss in leaf pattern. The
leaves are set on a foundation of sheer
white linen, and are outlined by mar
row white braid or cord. The leaf APP
pliques are further ornamented with
| French knots worked in white. The
full blouse waist has the lower part of
the pouch front formed by a wide band
| of the applique work, running cross
| wise. 1t has a round cape collar and
| short standing collar of the applique
The loose elbow sleeves are finished by
| d DdHQ VI the dppHQue Work. Inc ef-
feet of the leaf appliques, as they fall
over the white arm beneath, is very
good.
A white Swiss dotted in green makes
a gown of cool appearance. The whole
upper half of the blouse waist is laid
in pfE>-t ucks running vertically. These
allow the~fullness to escape below the
low bust line for the pouch of the front.
On either side, both front and back,
bands of batiste embroidery in shaded
green and white, extend from shoulder
to waist line. A band of the insertion
forms the low standing collar. The
skirt has the pin tucks over the hips.
! Clusters of them alternate with short
bands of the embroidery insertion.
giving hip yoke effect. The graduated
flounce is similarly tucked and insert
ed for half its width and is headed by
a band of the insertion.
A West End" suit of dotted Swiss
and Irish crochet lace is effective.
The tight-fitting skirt has diagonal
tucks meeting up the front. This ne
cessitates a seam down the front.
which is hidden by an insertion of the
Irish crochet. The tucks are in clus-
ters of three and are spanned at grad
uated nights by short bands of the in
sertion. The skirt is further trimmed
around the bottom by a group of triple
tucks. The waist has a shallow round
ed yoke of the lace. The fullness over
the bust is managed by groups of short
tucks. These alternate with short
bands of insertion. The sleeves are
tucked lengthwise to below the elbow,