Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1903-11-14
The Canvas Back Duck.

The royalty of ducks is the canvas back,
the joy of the sportsman and pride of the
epicure. Canvas back ducks ethereal was
the verdict of Sir Henry Irving on his
first introduction to this delicate American
bird. A story is told of celebrated writer
novelist. who visited the states not so
many years ago, who foreSWore all other
engagements in order to dine with gour-
met twelve consecutive days on canvas
back ducks and champagne. Small wonder
that he saw America and Americans
through curiously tinted glasses after that.
The delicate flavor and rare and melting
juiciness so highly priced in the canvas
back duck is attributed to its feeding en-
tirely upon the wild celery, as the root of
the plant valisneria is called. The beds OF
this plant are located along the Chesa-
peake bay, and the flesh of the canvas
back duck is in prime condition only when
the bird subsists entirely on this vegetarian
diet. At times the canvas back INDUCES in
fish, which renders it's flesh anything but
palatable and relegates his serene highness
to a very common plane, for without the
flavor of the celery the much-coveted SAVIOR
is not in the meat. The canvas back duck
may be cooked like other Wild duck, but
nearer to the fire, for one must lose as lit
tie of the juice and blood as possible and
it requires rapid cooking to prevent the
fat and liquid from running out. He must
be browned-crisp almost to burning-and
served plain, with only salt, pepper. and
crisp, white celery sticks. Its own crimson
gravy is considered sufficient sauce by the
epicure. who considers it barbarous treat
ment to deluge this unapproachable bird
with gravies, sharp sauces. wine, jelly or
condiments.
In order to enjoy the canvas back duck
we are also advised to grill him, serve
immediately-as it must not be allowed to
cool-accompanied by celery mayonnaise
and followed by very dry champagne
frappe. This is a course for king
remarks our connoisseur, leaving us in
Jo,1b tn whether but king de-
serves such fare, or, what Is more proba-
BILE, only those of kingly estate may in
dulge in such extravagant fancies
The Redhead Duck.
This duck ranks next to the canvasback,
and is not infrequently substituted for the
latter being cooked in the same manner.
Should you wish to eat wild duck in per-
fiction, try the two following methods,
given by famous chefs: Split young can
vasback down the back, place him in
heavy double grdiron with the inside of
bird next the fire; press down fiat with the
other part of the iron, but do not bruise the
flesh. Let it cook over a strong, clear fire
for twelve or fifteen minutes then turn and
expose the breast of the bird to the fire just
long enough to brown the skin rich, even
color. taking care all through the cooking
to lose as little of the juice as possible.
To Roast Wild Duck.
Or try TINS methOd-roaSunS at Il RAPID
fire until crisp and brown almost to black
ness for twenty-five minutes. Send to the
table at once in heated covered server
Have previously placed before the carver a
silver brazier or chafng-dish, with the fol-
lowing ingredients: Three glasses of port
wine cayenne, salt, cut lemon and cup
of good brown stock or gravy. With these
prepare a sauce, and when the duck is
carved roll each portion in the hot sauce
place on heated dishes and pass to the
eager and appreciative guest.
Duck la Americana.
Mallard duck la Americana is n duck
roasted rare-not over thirty minutes-be-
fore a brisk fire, carved, the best parts kept
hot between hot dishes, while a rich brown
sauce is made from liquor in which the car
cass and trimmings have been Stewed with
aromatic herbs and seasoning of salt and
pepper. Port wine and currant jelly are