The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-08-29
BETWEEN-SEASON GOWNS
DIFFICULT To CHOOSE, YET NECEs-
SARILY TO BE PROVIDED.
Accessories of Dress That Add Much
to the Wearer's Appearance
Fringes in Fashion.

more care in the selection than the one de-
signed for between-season wear. II must
not be over heavy for the warm days, yet
it must be suitable for those cooler ones,
which are sure to come. 1t must, to a GER
tain extent, forecast later styles, yet those
same styles are uncertain and it is diff
cult 10 determine which of them will and
which will not find permanent place.
This year the problem faces us with none
of its perplexities lacking and some few
unusual conditions to render il somewhat
more puzzling than common. We hear
rumors every day of this or that that is TO
be foresworn or of the other that is certain
to take. Certain authorities have it that
there are to be radical changes Others
maintain that established lines will remain.
One great designer sends us full skirts,
another plain. One leader in the world OF
tailors says only long coats, another says
blouse Etons as well. To choose wisely
and we'll with such confusion OF ideas
spread before US requires a nice discretion
and clearer vision than falls to the lot of
all. Happily some few facts are estab-
lished. Veilings are to hold their place and
are ideal for the first cool days. Heavy
linens with coats of cloth will be worn for
yachting and all outdoor sports through
October and are by no means so cool as the
material at first thought appears. Shir-
rings and tucks are to hold their place and
plaits are still to be worn, but just what
variations will be developed therefrom 1t
is not possible to forecast.
September is apt to be summer month,
but summer month with evenings so cool
as to bring the demand for wraps if thin
gowns be worn. Properly to prepare for
it one must renew and refurnish the linens
and cottons of morning and afternoon wear
and must add thereto few costumes of the
lovely soft woods that are to retain their
place, let other changes be what they may.
To accomplish the former it is necessary
to call upon the aid of the friendly fiat iron
and to add the fresh ribbons and new ac-
cessores that mean so much. Pressing &C
complishes wonders If well DONE Many
costume has taken on fresh appearance
merely because of the new stock or the
latest thing in belts The girl who asserted
that, given the choice between a new gown
without up-to-date accessories and one that
had seen some service with the details cor
rect she would always choose the latter,
knew whereof she spoke With the coming
of cooler days loose coats, or jackets, OF
bright red,- green and blue cloth will be
worn over linen gowns both for yachting
and all the outdoor occupations the season
brings about They are not costly. They
are not difficult to make, yet they give
chic air and a sense of newnesS that is
much to be desired. Teneriffe lace is the
latest within of fashion. 1t is probable that
it will be worn most freely the autumn
through. Stocks are, as yet, quite new, yet
can be easily made. The girl who provides
herself with half a dozen such will be en-
abled to give the summer costumes a new
and dainty touch. Pretty, soft felt hats
already are shown. They are both light
and cool, yet give suggestion Of autumn
that at once brings the costume UP to date.
Deep girdle-lke belts are seen upon the
latest models. Soft ribbon, of matching
color, so treated, gives the bodice a differ
ent air at once, yet involves little labor or
expense. To choose the new gown wisely
requires something more of prescience, but
can be accomplished if one be wary and
take cognizance of the flying straws that
mean so much.
IN REGARD TO COATS.
We are told and have been told that the
short coat is doomed, but such is not and
cannot be the fact. That we will have
many long coats is true, but furriers are
making the ever-becoming blouse Elton, and
we may look for il to retain a place. Ger
tain women look admirably well in the long
coats. Others are hopeless when so ar
rayed. Whatever else fails it always is
true that the American woman refuses to
sacrifice her appearance, and under any
and all conditions demands that which
makes her appear at her best; such being
the case, the jaunty little coats that are so
generally becoming will hold their place
until something better. or equally as good,
is found. Some very charming early au-
tumn costumes Of yelling are being made
with coats in this style. and others with
still smaller bolero coats, yet sees
many of the long ones, both tucked and
plain, and countless gowns designed to be
worn with the separate wraps that are both
long and loose. Skirts are full AS a mat
ter Of course. we must have others, for who
would wish to see the short sisterhood and
the stout sisterhood in plated shirred
skirts2 Nevertheless. that is the prevailing
model for all the lighter materials suited
to between seasons wear. On the other
hand, princesse styles steadily gain In favor
and are conspicuous in any number of adj
vance models
Purple and mauve shades bid fair to be a
craze. A most exquftite dinner gown that
could be worn during both the autumn and
winter is made of soft finished taffeta in
one of the lighter and more delicate shades
in which is a decided suggestion of pink. The
plaits at sides and back that turn toward
the front. Trimming it is valenciennes
lace, dyed to shade lighter than the silk,
manner. The lace is approximately an inch
and a half wide and is shirred midway
of its width to form ruches that are put on
to form a succession of diamonds and within
an occasional diamond is inclosed q motif
of finest white embroidery on null. The
bodice is bolero that forms a cape over
the sleeves, over lull Waist Oh cnlHOn ana
deep girdle of the silk, from which all long
sash ends of chiffon. There is tiny yoke
Of the embroidery and the bolero is trimmed
to match the skirt, while full sleeves of
chiffon seen under the cape are gathered
into deep cuffs of embroidery finished with
lace frills. The entire color scheme is a
delight and the design is replete with new
ideas Capes and cape effects appear TO be
a craze. This bolero, with it's extensions,
gives happy suggestion for gaining the re-
suit and the sleeves mark the tendency to
widening cuffs. The skirt is quite new
and graceful. while the lace in ruches and
dyed is a departure to be noted. Again,
the deep grdle marks a tendency and may
be looked for with the later models.
PRINCESS STYLES FAVORED.
Princess gowns are many, but show some
variation from the severe outline in being
so made as to flare with greater freedom
below the knees. A recently completed
evening gown that will be seen in one of
the leading plays of the season is of white
chiffon cloth combined with heavy cream
colored Venetian lace and is a delight to
the eye The skirt portion is of the chiffon
with a deep accordion plated flounce edged
with ruches The bodice is of draped lace
that is extended below the waist to the
depth of a skirt yoke and SO blends with
the chiffon to give no distinct outline
There are no sleeves and the low neck Is
finished with chiffon and lace combined. A
reception, or dinner, gown that suggests
the same princess lines, yet is less severe,
fe Of oil cnln rnA ~ .th x..ft -