The Montgomery advertiser., 1903-11-15
MISS GOELET'S GOWNS
QUAINT 1880 DRESSES IN THE
 TROUSSEAU.
Notable Styles in Preparation for
 Display at the Annual Horse Show.

burghe wedding and the horse show. The wedding dress of Miss May Goelet, who Tuesday will become the Duchess of Rox- | burghe. is very like that of other rich brides of this autumn. It Is composed of white liberty satin, yelled with white chiffon. Its notable features are an ex- treme length of train and the great beau | ty of the point lace which forms veil, | bodice yoke and full, transparent sleeves. In the decorations are mingled heather | and orange blossoms.
 The wedding of New York's richest l heiress will not equal in ostentation the Bradley Martins exhibition of the Earl
 of Craven. nor in brilliance the nuptials
 of Connie Vanderbilt and the Duke of
 Marlborough; nevertheless, Miss Goelet's | bridal will not down as a notable event
 in the annals of New York's social his tory. Miss May Goelet is small and dark.
 showing traces of the French blood of that early Goelet who came to this coun- | try a Huguenot refugee. She speaks with an exaggerated British accent. She
 is not pretty, though she has fine eyes.
 She is sallow, well-dressed and smart" | carrying herself, in spite of her diminu-
 tive stature, with English aplomb. Louis XIV. Models. l The greater part of Miss Goelet's trous-
 seau has been ordered in Paris and Lon- I
 the Atlantic. The French jeweler from whom have been purchased many of the ornaments still has the diamonds of the | future duchess locked in his safe, to be | kept till she reaches London. On the authority of New York dress maker who has provided certain trous- seau frocks and refitted others coming | from foreign ateliers, it may be stated | that Miss Goelet's taste leans toward ' lAl@ Ahn,x Afh hA. toilets being copied in its smallest de- tails from those which clad the beauties of the court of Versailles. For example. an afternoon dress in royal blue velvet has its full skirt covered with puffs, some in velvet, some in dyed lace and embroidery, some in blue silk muslin. It's half-length coat has a loose. seamless back; Its fronts, opening wide over waistcoat. are bedizened with embroidery. Jabots of lace deck throat and elaborate sleeves. The hat is a tricorne. ornament ed with plumes.
 Empire designs also are favored by Miss Goelet, at least two of her evening dresses and one of her evening cloaks finding their inspiration in the period of Josephine. The empire cloak Is of es- pecial beauty. Of grasshopper-green vel vet, 1t is mounted in gathers under a col- lar of Venetian lace, trimmed with sable. DIX netting anu IrlHBo etdpordte tho fronts. The sleeves are trimmed with cuffs of point lace and sable. and with Venetian point lace frills.
 A ball dress of empire model is made of purple velvet of a wonderful color, like silver bloom on a damson plum. The dec- orations are regal-a band of gold lace and embroidery at the foot of the skirt, glrdle of gold lace knotting in front and falling to the ground. and wing-like frills of gold lact above the short, puffed sleeves.
 Regal Ball Dress.
 One of the features of the 1880 dress to which Miss Goelet Is especially partial Is the quaint capuchin hood sometimes shown on house dresses. As developed in a particularly dainty rousseau frock, this hood is pointed and tassel-trimmed at the back of the bodice, it's sides com ing forward over the shoulders and cross- ing at the waist line in front like fichu. The dress to which belongs this capuchin is an ideal toilet of white voile, the full skirt laid in fine plats. the sleeves a mist of lace, the bodice covered with lace and hand-wrought embroidery.
 Velvet dresses are numerous in Miss Goelet's outfit, one or two of instep a full train, coming down at the sides as well as in the back; all with dropping shoulders. A particularly elaborate cos tune Is carried out in Etruscan red, hooped with puffs.
 Another Is of slate-colored blue. em- broidered in the same shade and decked with chenille. The skirt is peculiar. Two basques shaped like rounded paniers come down on the hips, and to these, as to yoke. the fullness of sides and back is gathered. Near the foot of the skirt xxyi1a of r1affad ell broidered with chenille. The bodice, belted with a chenille rope, is finished at the throat with a yoke of guipure. The sleeves open wide at the elbows, falling over puffs of velvet-trimmed muslin.
 Sable Her Favorite.
 Of course in such trousseau there is a owealth of furs. Miss Goelet is exeremely fond of sable, and many gifts of valuable Russian skins have been made to her. An evening cloak of sable and lace is of great beauty. An ecru-toned Venetian point is its foundation, the fur making a deep shouldrer collar and a border at the foot of tie draperies
 In addition to the diamonds that await her in Paris Miss Goelet has in New York three coronets from which to choose the fastening for her wedding veil, gifts re- spectively from her mother. her grand mother, Mrs. Wilson, and from MT and Mrs Cornelius Vanderbilt. With one of these and one of her magnificent diamond collarettes she need not miss the foreign jewels.
 Half the dressmakers of the city are busy with frocks for the horse show What the Langshamp and Autcuil races are to Paris the annual horse show in Madison Square Garden is to New York the great fashion event of the year. To it throng with equal eagerness the style makers, the style wearers and the women whose only chance it is to see the women who wear the styles. 1 remember hearing last autumn comment from box group on the throrg that filled the floor:
 Poor things! I suppose they're happy down there, with only one or two hats Ter year.
 / This autumn those compassionate box people with many hats will show them selves in the morning. 1t is predicted, of Donegal tweed. with military shoulder capes and tailor-made hats with steeple crowns and trimmings of owls heads or pompons
 Elaborate Costumes.
 For afternoon use the dressmakers are making ready elaborate costumes of smooth-surfaced cloth or velvet, with wide. round belts, dropping shoulders, quaint sleeves and fantastic hangings of fringe. For evening wear are ready full skirts of soft crepe, glittering spangled gauges supple velvets and rich brocades; | aIl these trimmed with flowers and cover ed with white wraps of lace and furs | Sable. ermine and moleskin will add | their luxurious warmth to rich toilets
 The furriers are showing bewildering