The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1903-11-07

the lie IN our faubourg Montmarte-
without the women-or in Cannebiere,
in summer. If little English were
spoken there.
But in all the streets one meets con-
stantly the southern type, eyes blacks
and brilliant,( black moustache, an easy,
supple walk with nothing of the An
glo-Saxon rigidity to which one be-
comes accustomed in the northern
states. 1t seems anomalous to hear
these people speaking English. Like
wise it is a delight on addressing them
to hear them express themselves all at
once in our language as purely and
as clearly as If they had just left
France. In some of the churches
preaching is done in both English and
French. But as to that, all the Creoles
speak English, with a little accent of
parodied in the salons and which caus-
es even the Creoies themselves to
laugh. For there is not the shadow
of division between Creoles and Am
orleans. The world of fashion has run
into sigle society. Naturally one al
lows himself to be attracted more by
those Of his own family, but the Ang-
lo-Saxon customs so large, so Hospital
BILE and SO flexible, lend themselves
readily to the usages and forms which
have been introduced by the French
and Spanish elements.
And the life there led is charming,
a life easy yet active and without the
rigorous hypocrisy of New England.
People know how to amuse themselves
and to mix work with pleasure The
carnival, which have already de-
scribed, is one Of the signs Of it. But
all the year balls. dinners, receptions
and excursions follow one another.
Sundays one goes to brkeafast or to
dine at West End, restaurant built
on the water. full Of entertainments
and music, the rendezvous Of elegant
society, as early as March or April.
assisted az one Of these very agree
, able breakfasts at West End. 1t was
given by countryman OF mine, like
wise de passage, who had reached the
! city about the same time, the guests
, being dozen friends, both American
; and Creole. remember the toast Of
, which his timidity prevented him de-
livering more than the half. We had
, before US the spirituelle flower of the
: old colony; at our feet and to the hor-
lion the water of the Mississippi, Fa-
+ Their of Waters, which the sun drowned
with his rays. ..
!, At dessert, encouraged by the friend
ly smile Of his hosts. he said with suf-
/, ficient truth: 81 drink to the soft and
ardent louisiana, to the laziness Of her
breath, to the sweetness of her per-
fumes, to the reception by her sun and
by her inhabitants. In coming here the
Frenchman may satisfy his taste for
joy and for the beautiful. He owes you
, and he offers ycu his humble and fer
4 vent thanks"
The Mississippi Is a naughty Loire
= which flows between its Towering and
monotonous banks. We have learned
E to love 1t through Chautetaubriand.
who surely never saw 1t, but he UNDER
| stood so well to sing in cadenced peri
d DDS that he has just left in our minds
the most magnificent souvenirs and the
e most false. / have never met in Lou
isiana a bear drunk with grapes stag
4 gering upon the branch OF an elm, nor
e humming birds, nor copperheads, nor
: red fiamingoes, nor yet blue herons.
Alasi What have you done with them?
But found what he would have been
able to find there If he had come in
e 1891, as he hesitates to assure us
t Frenchmen spirltuelles, fruit more saw
: DRY and flowers more beautiful fol
having been transplanted.
3 would hold in horror base fiat
II terry Of my native land, and would
u be unworthy of being read or listened
2 to by intelligent readers IL showed in
t my judgments of another country the
slightest partl pris in favor of my own
u 1t seems to me that the maximum Of
indulgence that one may permit one.
r self In such a case Is to be the mos
n Just possible towards others. But
d have too often, during my tour had oc.
:. casion to mention our interior material
condition as compared with the Amer.
leans, not to note with joy the facts
which blished-by other points
% the equilibrium, The Anglo-Saxons
have an air slightly exotic in the eli
mate of Southern Louisiana. And as
have told you, nature and the Creoles
>, are at work adapting them.
). That which above all renders New
|. Orleans deliciousiy habitable city. per
e haps unique in the United States, Is
e that which remains Of the vivacity o.
+ the French element, or rather of the
8 Creole element, for to them there came
e to be be added and amalgamated III
o years ago a Spanish colony itself yer,
e distinguished, which conceded nothing
n to our own. 1t is from the fusion o.
IS the two races that has been formed thu
Is Creole element of New Orleans polished
y seductive and grand seineur.
d T observed this at the receptions tina
e T attended in Orleans street at the home
e of the Creoles, the most charming ant
II the most recherche of the city; at tn,
d home of Nine. Fernand May She il
1t Spanish by her father. DR.. Castel
n lanos, French by her mother. and il
20 married to a young and intelligent
l. French Canadian, who, in a few years
1t has been able to build handsome for
'e tune in the improving business. He
e', house is, when she wises II. the rendeZ