Oxford Democrat. [volume] (Paris, Me.) 1833-1933, 1903-02-10
Home Dressmakinq.

Skirts may be heightened by slightly
shaped 1and at the foot of the skirt. 1t
may be of the skirt material or of con-
trasting cloth, or of velvet, and it may
be plain or stitched, and the upper edge
may be trimmed if desired. A shaped
flounce may be used for the same pur-
pose, made of lining and covered with
slightly fulled bias ruffles of the mate
rial or of velvet. One very pretty skirt
was remodeled by a narrow front gore
extending to form hip-yoke, and a
shaped flounce covered by three bias
ruffles extending from the front gore to
the back. The joining of the skirt to
the yoke and front gore was covered with
silk passementerie, and the ruffles were
headed with the same. The skirt ma
terial was green cheviot, the yoke, front
gore and ruffles of green velveteen.
tiOns of the old cuts. There are circular
skirts, double and triple skirts, skirts
with ruffles at the foot, in the middle,
and all over, and skirts of cores from
three to eleven; but of all these kinds
the seven-gored and five-gored skirts
are the ones always used, the most
economical to cut, the easiest to remodel,
and consequently best for the home
dressmaker.
They are rather loose below the hips,
but careful fitting is still necessary. The
day when anybody could make skirt"
has long since passed, and will not re-
turn. Select pattern of the correct
waist-measure, unless the hips are large
in proportion, in which case buy from
the hip-measure, because it is easier to
deepen the seams at the waist line than
toilet them out over the hips. Make the
pattern correct in length by turning up
evenly at the foot to shorten it, and con-
tinuing the seam-lines in the same direc-
ton to lengthen it. If the skirt needs
to be cut very much shorter, lay two OF
three very tiny folds across the pattern
just above the knees.
Cut exactly as the pattern directs.
Mark the notches, so as to make sure OF
joining the edges that belong together.
Beginning at the waist, pin the seams;
taking care not to stretch the bias edges,
then haste the seam-as deep as the pat
tern Understanding the stitch one
fourth of an inch long.
Stitch and press the, back seam, and
make the placket (skirt-closing) very
| neatly. Stitch the other seams after the
first fitting.
Cut the waist-band from any strong
lining material, not too thick, and al
ways straight on the length. The length
of the cloth is stronger and stretches
less than a crosswise cut. The size
H. fho, tha OF
measure. Add to this the width Of the
underlap in the placket and enough to
turn in to make neat finish at the ends.
The one inch added will be taken up by
the thick seam and the machine-stitch-
ing. Try on the skirt. Pin in proper
position at the waist-line in front, then
pin at the hip-line in the back. Be very
sure to make the skirt easy over the hips,
otherwise it will spread open in the back
as soon as unpinned. Pin each seam to
the waist line. Be careful to make them
come straight up from the bottom, and
not slanting toward the back. Notice
whether the seams need to be deepened
from the waist to the hip; but remember
that considerable fullness may be sewed
into the waist-band without seeming to
| be full when it is worn, and also remem-
Der that tight fitting over the hips al:
ways shortens the skirt at the sides, and
nothing can be uglier than that Now
pin the band around the waist, and mark
where the seams should be placed.
Take off the skirt, and press the seams,
haste to the band, and try on again to
prove the work. Stitch the band, and
then try on to get the proper length.
Woman's Home Companion.