The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-06-26
COSTUMES OF ALL SORTS
A BELATED SUMMER BRINGS OUT
BOTH THICK AND THIN GOWNS.
Little Touches That Add to the style
of a Characterization Settled
for the Season.

Correspondence Of the Indianapolis Journal
NEW YORK, June A.-The belated sum-
mer has brought about many curious and
strange conditions. Here in New York we
are conscious of far bigger contingent of
smart folk than Is usual at this season,
find the streets and the shops crowded with
more familiar faces. and generally quite
unable to realize that June is well spent
The cool and damp weather has brought.
too, a state of matters sartorial such as i
do not remember ever to have seen before
Those women who dress for comfort are
wearing suits of cheviot and homespun
that mean warmth combined with style.
but there are others to whom summer
means summer clothes, let the temperature
be what 1t may. AS result we see gowns
OF muslin, suits OF linen and suits of home
spun side by side. coats Of covert CLOTH
coats of silk and coats of lace all worn at
one hour of a dismal overcast day. Our
smart shops are fine places for studying
such effects. The procession that passes
in and out Is very nearly endless. AS !
stood this morning for ten minutes at the
entrance Of one such l saw costumes sug-
gestive OF all chimes and greatly
fertained thereby, but noted that in spite
of the incongruity apparent in materials,
certain features were to be noted IN all
and that certain tendencies Of the earlier
season were gaining confirmation.
Full skirts and skirts that just clear the
ground are to be seen in numbers. Plaits
and tucks OF all sorts abound. but as yet.
by one means or another, snug fit about
the hips is maintained. Many plated skirts
OF ponsee and similar thin materials are
simply stitched fat for considerable dis
lance below the waist. but there is a
marked tendency toward hip yokes, and
many charming things the result None
but tall woman looks well with a yoke
that extends across the front. SO much
ought to be well recognized fact. but.
strange to say, one sees them worn by
women OF all builds BY far the best skirt
IS made with the front gore and yoke in
one, side and back cores plated and joined
thereto but some OF the pointed models are
exceedingly attractive when worn by the
women whom they suit As smart pongee
costume as / have noted is made with
at back and one over each hip and a Killed
skirt simply stitched. Pongee, like cloth,
lends itself TO costumes of many sorts 1t
seen simply stitched. This suit, with the
yoke skirt. was OF the latter sort and in
cluded simple little plated Elton worn
over a lingerie waist. but almost by its
side, was to be seen another with a trained
skirt and long loose coat with a cape of
heavy Venetian lace that fell well below
way. are much seen, and, like many another
fashionable adjunct. are often misused and
Morn oy @arked
and among the number only two that were
well worm
A FEMININE DEFECT
Why is it, I wonder. with all the talk
and all the effort expended on physical
culture one sees so few women who carry
themselves or who walk well? Such droop-
ing garments as those capes require a fine
carriage or their effect is less than nil, yet
saw them sloppily worn and by women
who appeared have not an atom of
grace In figure or in movement A somewhat
facetious screed recently printed claims
that there is to be a return TO our grand
mothers methods and ways of life, that
rival to the outdoor girl had been found
and that dropping shoulders. pulled sleeves
period have brought about a reaction and
a return to purely feminine ways. Let us
hope that nothing good or worthy will be
lost, but let hope also that with this
revival, may come some real grace of
movement. In severe tailored gown, with
It's unsompronmslng lines sand, and semi ;
make fairly good effect, but when she
dons dropping capes and pelerines she
along as though walking on a track But
TO return 10 the pongee gowns and suits.
they are in all colors, but are never
so smart as in the natural tone, albeit this
same tone Is perishabe and soils quickly
Colors do not hold the dye and are not
satisfactory. The soft tan tone can at least
be cieansed again and again. Coats are
both short and long. but the tendency To
add TO their length is not to be overlooked.
The loose box sort Is seen. but the plated
or tucked blouse with deep tunic is newer
and more general. while jaunty Etons APP
pear In many shapes.
OF the AIDED length TO the coats not pom
CESS alone. but linens and cloths also bear
evidence day by day. Linen is being very
generally used. Its prevailing style ap-
pears TO be plated or tucked shirt that
Just clears the ground. with long plated
coat worn with belt. All sorts OF touches
are added that mean character and give
relief from the white and natural tones
which seem TO outnumber all colors. One
that / noted was finished with a black vel
vet collar and cuffs but L confess L prefer
linen OF contrasting color Linen or CLOTH
or any wool or silk material. is effective
and TO be admired The gown Is not. pre-
sumably even. washable one and the linen
Is usually OF color that does not show
soil readily. but velvet or linen seems
really so Homogeneous TO be absurd
Touches Of red are much In evidence and
often. are most effective Belts. ties and
such removable accessories make the
favorite means OF using color but buttons
too. are and sometimes facings on
collars A really charming shirtwaist suit
OF dark blue satin foulard dotted with
white. was made with tiny buttons OF red as
trimming and worn with a narrow belt OF
red leather. But more attractive by far
70 me, II a suit OF blue and white checked
tafetn that was made quite simply and
worn with turnover collar and cuYs of
embroidered linen batiste. The waist COM
bined yoke OF tiny tucks with full un-