The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1903-11-28

to the most severe of all tests. Hats for
these latter gowns are fascinating, mostly
in picture style with the plumes that suit
the gown so well, or in smaller shape with
tips or flowers. Boat-shaped turbans are
much seen Of tulle with bands of fur and
tips and the tricorne shows many varia-
lions. A most beautiful example of the
latter Is In black silk beaver with two long
feathers as trimming that are held by a
rosette In which are found touches of gold
and such touches, by the way, are to be
noted on many Of the best models. Gold
braid as pliable as silk is the preferred
medium and it is used to make bows or
knots or i'm bits with black or dark color to
give a most brilliant effect
The season is one Of intense color. At
almost every gathering Of well-dressed folk
ene es vv n pb he blues greens and
choose well and warilyi When subdued
tones are the vogue danger Of sacrificing the
mum, but when brilliant hues are worn re-
suits are apt to be dire. Many, many times
do wish that some one strong enough and
with sufficient following would preach the
cult of becoming dress. 1t would seem as
though splendor alone were sought, all
thought as to the effect on the wearer
ignored Only the other day a Partisan
journal bewailed this same fact and as
serted that I'm Paris women appeared to be
utterly Indifferent to personal charm so
long as the gowns worn were gorgeous, and
we seem to be aping them rapidly over
here. Yet what purpose does dress legiti-
mately serve but to heighten the wearers
charm. to act as a foil for beauties that
exist, to reduce to a minimum faults, IL
such they be? Too much splendor often
kills. 1t Is not every woman who is born
to wear superb garments with regal ease.
girl dresses as only her stately cousin
should, when the matron to whom simple
things belong by right overwsights her
self with. costly stuffs. no real beauty is
found and social gatherings seem more pro-
ductive Of display than of charm. Color
style, trimming must be chosen to suit the
wearer. else. let the costume be what IL
may, it will fail of the first requisite for
success Just now we are seeing many
wide girdes and bloused waists and the
warning needs to be sounded with special
ding, one Of the guests wore q chiffon vel
vet in Episcopal purple made with full
shirred skirt, much-bloused waist, deep
girdle and wide collar. Che was neither tall
nor slender AS a result collar and girdle
nearly met and she presented a picture the
reverse Of graceful. Yet / am sure she
came from a famous maker and cost a
fabulous sum.
YOKES ARE MUCH USED.
Yokes are seen at every turn. They ap-
pear in the blouses of street wear and in
the waists of indoor gowns alike but to be
correct must not be sharply outlined. In
some way the finish must take an irregular
line and extend both up onto the yoke and
down onto the blouse. 1t may be lace, II
may be braid, IL may De rucheS, but what
ever the device this one sll-important
truth should be borne I'm mind. AS an ex-
ample most beautiful gown of marine
blue cloth Is made with deep yoke that
is edged with Oriental embroidery, so made
as to form quite irregular edges. The cos
tune Is all worthy OF note and comes from
a designer of repute. The skirt Is double at
sides and back, gathered slightly and
joined TO hip yoke All the front is a mar
row panel held down by groups OF tiny
enameled buttons and giimpses OF the green
foundation are caught between its edges
and those Of the skirt. The deep yoke of
sleeves and gives the long dropping effect
Below IL the blouse Is soft and full held
by deep girdle of soft chiffon velvet. At
the edge of the yoke Is the embroidery, In
which are found fade tints of many sorts,
exQuisitely blended. The sleeves are full,
with fiaring cuffs edged with embroidery.
below which fall deep full frills OF cream
lace. The accompanying hat Is a picture
model of blue velvet with plumes and a
touch of the Oriental eoloring, the furs a
peler.ne and muff OF combined mole and
ermine. As study in color the gown is
not easily outdone. bus charming and at
tractive as IL Is. IL suggests a note CT dan
ger and supplies the motive for an added
warning. These full waists, or blouses,
with deep yokes are delightful worn by the
| women whom they suit but fuliness across
| the shoulders is dangerous to many figures
| and should mean careful consideration.
Anything like bumped effect is fatal to