New-York tribune., 1903-03-29

you no more that ac-
67NffR count
A{W The answer was character
MVE{N# istic Of the spirit which per-
NStMAE vades the trade to i'm
NNEE ported and domestic fabrics
A few years ago goods made in this country
were continually shown and sold as i'm
norted" and merchant tailors found that a little
imagination on their part as to the origin OF
,he material helped the sales Owing to the fact
that the product Of the American mills has i'm
proved both as TO style and quality. the WORD
imported" plays less important part ana
customer will not flee from the place because
the goods on show are home made what Is true
Of material is equally true Of the styles mems
clothes cut after English patterns were con-
sidered the best a few years ago. and the tallors
who were guided exclusively by the European
fashion makers were looked upon as the highest
IN their business and they asked the highest
rrices for their product To-day the styles in
mems wear are also domestic. Great quantities
Of imported material are used. because the
manufacture Of many Of the cloths has not VET
been fully developed in this country, and many
s,vlAs also come to US from abroad. but by the
time the American tailor has finished with them
nv the time he has modified the new features
and made one little change here ana another
there the English style has become American,
their creator Americans know this and the
number Of men who buy their years supply
while abroad on their summer vacation grows
smaller every year. There are still many men
who fancy that there are no tailors OUTSIDE OF
England but the number is so small ana the
Ioss On their account to American tailors is so
slight that they were not taken into consldera-
ton when the Fifth-ave. tailor said: The best
dressed men in the world are the New-Yorkers'
and they get their clothes at home
The New-Yorker is well dressed because he
fuvs MANY clothes. The competition in trade
has made IL necessary for tailors to furnish
~oods uroperIy cut at reasonable prices. and
there fs no reason why even the man OF MOD
crate means should not be well dressed
American men, and New-Yorkers in particu-
lar will not be bound by the DEGREES OF fashlon'
and for that reason it is more difficult TO fore-
cast the STYLES in the metropolis than in other
parts Of the world. The men who make the
Etvles give them to the public and if the public
ennroyes they remain the seasons styles; II
the nubIic vetoes the fashion decree the styles
that were to be are relegated to. the OLD ano
past fashions department and their places are
taken by the styles approved of by the oeo-
pie II IS less difficult to forecast the fashions
for the spring and summer season this year
than usual because no radical changes have
been suggested by the fashion makers
sons styles: They not only so near fault
less from an art point of view and so excellent
in utflity that none can fail to please the eye OF
the artist and charm the utilitarian. but their
variety is so great that those who rejoice in
multiplicity Of styles can, if they are financially
able rejoice in them through the season with
greater rejoicing than they ever rejoiced before
IN similar way.
As to the new features, the same authority
de han
fashionable last season in all garments during
fbe incoming spring and summer Mems
shoulders will seem to have lessened in width
and souareness. their hips will appear less ef-
Terminate and their legs will more emphaticaly
assert their side curves. Cvercoats Of the sack
type will be somewhat shorter and less boxy.
and all overga arments will be noticeably mar
rover and lower Of shoulder and longer and
lighter Of roll" Coats Will be more open in
front than they were last season. and the roll
will be narrower. Cutaway coats will be more
soped away below the waist. sacks will be
shorter and less shaped to the figure and the
frock coat for day dress will be a trife shorter.
Waistcoats will also be cut lower and both
single and double breasted styles will be worn.
With business suits the single breasted waist
coat cut well away from the lowest button, and
with day dress double breasted waistcoats with
buttons set on v-shaped will be worn. Trou-
sers will 1T closer at the hip and there will be
more spring over the shoe. On the subject Of
trousers The Sartorial Art Journal says:
''The semi-pegtops are SO emphaticaly things
OF the past that any legs around which they
may be 10 flop in the incoming season will
probably belong to a college student, who fol-
lows no fashion but that Of his college. or to a
one who ought to know better"
The head Of an old established tailoring estab.
lshment said: This will be big season for
blue serge and blue flannel suits. Cup race
n
People who never q yacht race, to say
nothing Of owning or going on a yacht, order
yachting costumes just to be IN IL, and it makes
clothes, at the seashore or In the mountains or
at Saratoga" There seems to be desire on
the part OF some people to bring back the
knickerbockers for golf, and some men have or
dered outfits OF that style But they will be un-
able to create demand for the knickerbocker,
the tailorE think. and fancy striped flannel
trousers Will be as popular as they were last
season For several years the double breasted
1fock IN light ccIors has been worn by tall men.
II VIII be seen again this season more frequently
tnan heretofore, and will have companion
the long cutaway frock coat. This Will be worn
win and without hip pockets.
In furnishing goods the styles are ali mod
efate IN tone. The high coIored and large dg-
ureo shirts Of q few seasons ago have dIsap-
show neat patterns Of black and white and
some solid colors- The white summer shirt in
sttlpes and plaids with plain and pleated fronts.
vii oe worn extensively. and will displa4 TO z
great extent the fancy shirt. The loud hosiery
has also had its day This seasons styles are
Ake the shirt neat and gubdued in tone. Black
Wiz small figures and black with fancy clocks
VII VII oe popular White socks with black or COL
80 80 sS1e stltchings were worn last summer by
many men, and II is probable that similar
hoeaefy viii be worn this season, but black vii.
e Sae prevailing color. In speaking Of the white
soSA an uptown haherdaSher said: Warm
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