The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1903-09-13

y light and the dinner hour ap-
DIoaehes. puts on M, not a t,ti,,t tss
gown This is q cross between dinner
dress and a negligee, with all the beauty
Of he former and all the comfort OF the
latter Its particular virtue is that IL Is
cheap without being common
There Is a certain distinction about the
twilight gown which Will be at once oo-
servable 10 you II you will study H. II
IS so loose, yet so clinging; so unconnneo'
yet so firm about the waist linei II Is SO
dressy, Yet so unconventional, so oecom-
ing and 50 stylish, yet so free from sun
ness that II recommends itself TO the
world Of women at sight
A certain society dame who OCCASION
ally allows herself an evening at home
declared 70 her modiste that her husband
did not Ike her dinner gowns 1hey
look too much Ike wrappers. SAID she-
yet must have something loose 70 wear
after the social round OF the afternoon
'Then get a twilight gown" said the
modiste: and Immediately she tashloheo
for her patron a twilight dress which was
SO charming that II became a household
favOrite.
Mrs W. X. Vanderbilt ST.. just home
from Europe @ bride, wears Tor dinners
ct home. when there are TO guests.
charming twilight gown which could be
easily copied. 1t is cut upon the style or
q court dress OF q hundred years ago,
open in the front and worn with lace
petticoat The overdress is made Of young
leaf green yelling. with knots OF ribbon
and lace down each side OF the front,
which opens very much like polonaise-
There is q folded ribbon belt
Since ell women wear the low cut neck
IN winter now as well as in summer. and
since tie low cut neck is both comfort
able and becoming. II is well 10 cut the
twilight gown in a wide point In the
front and rounding IN the back Thls
open space can be filed In with q chema-
settle II desired.
Ruchings and Girdles.
The fad for ruchings finds expression
IN the trimming Of indoor gowns. which
ere decorated with ruchings Of all kinds.
A very pretty rUche is the one that Is
made Of silk and shirred through the mid
Ole. A little vine Of flowers is run along
the shirring and the little flowers are al
most but not quite buried in the ruche.
Another ruching that is very popular is
the one with scaltoped edges. This ruch-
ing is gathered IN the middle and little
knots OF velvet are set at intervals Of
three inches. Ruchings are made OF
everything and are made in all sorts OF
ways and the wonder is that there are
gowns enough upon which to place them,
for they are so numerous.
A trimming that is new this fall is the
piece Of ruching two or three inches long.
=
lengths and these lengths are used TO
trim the front Of the house gown, taking
the place Of the bow Of ribbon or the
bow Of velvet.
Almost a necessary feature Of the twi-
light gown is the wide g1rdle. This is
made Of any material and is finished in
any one OF a variety OF ways The
French are very fond OF the kid girdle,
which stretches to At the waist and looks
very neat A white kid girdle can be
worn a long time, as can one Of black
The red kid ones are very effective. while
the blue and green are decidedly chic,
worn around the waist OF house gowns
that are made in the pale green or the
pale cream tones.
When the girdle is made of silk or vel
vet. Of ribbon or Of cloth. IT is by far the
best plan TO supply an inner belt Of the
desired width OF crinoline. This inner belt
IS covered with silk muslin Of the desired
shade and over this is carelessly draped
the outer girdle.
To Make the Fl cure Slim.
Another way to make the girdle is to
supply a foundation Of boned crinoline.
This is covered with folds OF silk that are
finished at the back with little knots Of
ribbon. The bottom knot hangs down
long. with ends that almost reach the
bottom Of the skirt. These are knotted
two or three times to give finish to the
girdle.
Inc Erencl CreSSmakerS insist tnat the
Eirdle be very loose. They will tighten
the corset until the victim is almost
Etrangled, but when IL comes to putting
on the girdle this article is placed loosely
around the waist and it's folds are very
lightly laid. It's ribbon ends are loosely
tied and the whole girdle looks as though
II might be worn a great deal tighter. In
this way the figure is given an air OF
slimness.
Never under any circumstances in this
year Of our graceful fashions should a
woman undertake to tighten the belt.
Lace, II lace you must, from the corset.
but let the outer garments be very easy
IN nj. This is the positive rule. which,
unless well observed, viii cause the gown
10 look very much out OF the mode.
The house gown, with fits flowing lines,
may have the high empire belt, and this
is accomplished by the mere folding Of
silk material across the waist line high
enough 10 outline the bust. This is an
old style, but one that does not go out,
for you see it repeated in all the new
fashions Of winter
The Roman toga house gown, or twi-
light gown, is one that looks very simple
70 the eye, but II is difficult to make
PUzzling as this gown is 70 the amateur,
II is really worth the while IL one is go
ing in for pretty house dresses.
The Roman toga gown is flowing in all
Its lines But its particular feature "a
that II is fastened upon the left shoulder
n Roman toga fashion, while from the
shoulder II falls away in long lines clear
10 the ground.
The Roman Toga Gown.
Modern fashions have much trans
formed the Roman toga gown until now
II is made over fitted foundation and
the long flowing lines are bordered with
Persian embroidery and there is a Per-
sian band around the foot Of the gown.
A very conventional stock of Persian
stun and very wide sleeves bordered with
the same give an up-to-date look to this
gown.
one OF the most charming women at
home is the Princess Troubetzkoy. for
merly Amelie Rives. It was she who was
one Of the first 10 discover the beauties
Of the draped gown, and in her fondness
for II she was closely seconded nv Mrs
William c Whitney and Mrs Cleveland
both OF whom popularized it in that dav
IN Washington. Now you will see this