Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-10-29
Table and Kitchen.
The Toothsome Game, Whose savory
Taste Lies in the Meat, Not in the
Etuff1nr 1-5


When game birds are abundant and in
their season 1t h not difficult matter to
persuade even those who do not favor
meat diet to occasionally indulge in a small
bird at least. So 81
Many imagine that they do not like game
birds; not being accustomed to their use.
their first introduction has been in the eat
Ing of game which has been "ripened," let
hung, after killing, until tender; by this
time 1t has acquired peculiar favor which
Is considered the desirable quality desig-
mated as "gamey" and much liked by self
styled epicures; but to those unaccustomed
to the flavor. a too evident Indication of de-
cay and unwholesomeness and most noxious
and disagreeable to any but depraved and
Initiated taste.
There really Is no meat finer, or more
wholesome than wild game. The meat, dark
and more savory than that of poultry or
tame fowl. is also more tender and digesti-
BILE.
Wild fowl, being wholly vegetarian. must
naturally produce a cleaner meat than the
domestic fowl. The kind Of food eaten by
the game bird has much to do with the fla
Vor or the meat If perchance the highly
priced canvas back duck INDUCES in diet
or fish instead of the more esthetic wild
celery the flavor for which the meat of the
plrd Is so highly priced is lost and 1t can
not be compared to the tame duck content
~ oudCh ABOUT MS nome fdrm-yarQ.
Prime game is clean and fat and free
from unpleasant and musty odor. Wild
meat Will keep good much longer than the
domestic meat because of the firm texture
the Kind OF food eaten and free and natural
NE OF the creature. Large game not frozen
Will, In average temperate weather, clear
ana dry, keep a week; small game from
TWO to hve days. In clear winter weather,
When frozen In the air. the meat of game
will keep until there are signs of thaW
When the meat is to be kept, it should be
entirely covered by cheese cloth and hung
IN IN a cool, dark, dry place. Never lay upon
alSnes OF boards, but hung so that the blood
which may flow from it, and which taints
more quickly than the meat, cannot remain
in contact with it.
The breasts of game birds should always
De run ana tender. and the skin about the
vent and upon the rump clear and freshly
colored. When the vent is green the bird
is stale.
Old game should never be roasted.
IN selecting game birds see that the par
Irloge mas yellow legs and dark bill If you
desire young birds The vent will be rigid
When fresh, and green If stale.
Ihe young pheasant is known by the short
or rounded spur, which becomes long and
pointed with the old
Grouse, woodcock and quail may be chosen
by the above rules
Tame ducks must be cooked until we'll
done; but the bird must be rare and served
very hot In fact, they are generally pre-
ferred UNDERGONE
The mallard, the male of the wild duck
Is always roasted before a brisk fire for
nfteen minutes and requires frequent and
thorough basting with butter
The superior and delicate American ia
Vor1te OF epicures, the canvas back duck
being very fat must be cooked very near
a quick fire SO that It's delicious Juices will
not run out.
1t is best eaten with a plain gravy or
snarp sauce When the duck is served the
breast only is carved, It is done in the fol-
lowing manner. Stick fork straight and
nrmly into the middle of the breast bone
commence from the neck, carve down the
, PACK straight to the back bone, around the
back, then from the point of starting around
the collar bone. Gut the joint off the wing
commence again at the point of starting;
carefully and gently carve of the entire
breast until only the carcass remains
Sydney Smith declared that it was wick
edness to drenchs roast game with sauce
and game to be enjoyed must not be robbed
OF Its natural flavor, so abstain from too
much seasoning; do not use spicy herbs of
any Kind and avoid all onion favored yeee-
tables; for no culinary skill can Improve on
the havor of the meat of the partridge
which has fed on the aromatic nuts and
berries of the woods and field
Roasted Wild Duck.
To roast the canvas back, redhead or mall
lard duck, first procure a fine fat fowl, pick.
SINCE and draw thoroughly and carefully;
wipe out, and sprinkle the inside lightly
with salt; cut an opening at the neck, and
through it draw the head and neck, letting
the head emerge at the back between the
drumsticks, truss it in place If the duck
Is carefully drawn it need not be washed
inside. Sprinkle salt and pepper on out
side, place in roasting pan in brisk oven
ana COOK eighteen minutes, basting fire.
quently. Arrange on a hot dish, untrussed.
add few spoonfuls of white broth, garnish
with small pieces of fried hominy and cur
rant jelly One duck makes but two por-
lions, as only the breast is served.
Supreme Of Grouse, Richelieu Style.
SINCE, draw and wipe three grouse: re-
move the skin from the breasts With a
sharp-pointed knife make an incision on the
top of each breast bone, from end to end.
Carefully remove the entire breasts on both
sides, including the small wing bone; do
not leave a particle of meat on the bones.
Remove the small fllets found under the
breast, putting aside for further use On
the thinneSt side of the breasts make an
incfsion about three inches long and one
deep; rub in seasoning of salt and pepper
and stuff with a forcemeat of chickens
mixed with two truffies and four mush-
rooms sliced fine: put them in buttered
saute pan. Gently press the small fillets
with the fingers to give them a hollow
shape. Make six s,anting small cuts in
each, on top, and insert in them a small
piece of salt smoked beef; moisten slightly
the tops of the breasts with water, lay the
hllets lengthwise on them and brush them
over with clarified butter Put into the
pan quarter of cup of Madeira wine and
two tablespoonfuls of mushroom catsup;
place the meat on top of this; lightly cover
the pan; place in very hot oven for ten
minutes. Arrange on hot dish and serve
with a little Perigneux Ga truf1e sauce)
boiled three minutes with a cup of tomato
sauce. Serve sauce in separate dish.
Braised Partridges, With Cabbage
Old cartridges nice cooked this way
Truss them same as chickens to be boiled
Put them In saute pan with butter and
brown slightly over a quick fire. Cut lit
tie bacon and two onions into dice, put
them in the pan with the cartridges, partly
cover them with stock and braise them I'M
til nearly done. Wash a young head of
cabbage thoroughly, blanch and drain thor
oughly dry. put 1t in with the partridge and
finish cooking them together. When done
make a bed .efatlfe cabbage on a hot dish,
arrange the meat on top with the bacon for
garnish. Strain the liquor In the saucepan
through a fine 'uieye and boil down until re-
duced one-half. Then pour over and around
and serve very hot. 7nas
Broiled Partridges, American Style.
SINCE, draw and carefully wipe the par
tridpe. in baJpes. lAy on q dicb op5