The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1902-12-17

Mark Twain's Guide Tells His Elk
periences.


have had dealings with some very bad
couriers; but have also had dealings
with one who might fairly be called
perfection He was a young POlander
named Joseph N Nerey- He spoke eight
languages and seemed to be equally at
home in all Of them" Thus wrote Mark
Twain in "a Tramp Abroad"
Mr.. Nerey has been resident in Lon
don for. some time. but his interesting
personality remained undiscovered un-
til the recent publication in the Daily
Mail of a letter from Robert Adult.
who described him as the confidential
Harris of that inimitable work, says
the New York World Mr. Verey, how
ever, does not claim TO be the original
of that msrth- provoking character Al
though the adventures set forth in "A
Tramp Abroad" are founded on the ex-
periences which befen Mr.. Clemens and
himself during the European tour con
Quoted" by Mr.. Verey-
Mr.. Clemens engaged the guide in
Paris
Il was not aware who my employer
was" says Mr. Verey- ''At first sight
he did not I'LL me with enthusiasm. His
clothes fitted him badly: he wore no tie,
his long. yellowish- gray hair hung un-
tidily over the back of his collar, and
he smoked large, ugly corncob pipe.
felt anxious about my fee, all the more
so that he never referred to it.
Your first duty. Joseph, he said, is
to take out the wife and children Show
them all the sights of Paris, Joseph,
and do not hurry back. They are al
ways ringing my bell. I have work to
do. Joseph. Then he returned to his
room, and I heard him turn the key in
the lock.
From Paris we went TO Brussels. In
the market place / bought a guide book
to refresh my memory. Mr.. Clemens
Immediately turned on his heel and left
me. This conduct puzzled me until he
explained that he objected TO walk by
the side of a man who carried a Bae-
deker. Every tourist has guide book
under his arm he said. and looks like
missionary seeking for converts.
Mr.. Verey has much to say in praise
of Mark Twain's kindly. gentle DISPOSE
ton. At Berlin the two "Tramps" were
walking along Inter den Linden, when
the guide accidentally collided with an
errand boy carrying a fish basket on
his head.
''Mr. Clemens clinched his hands. IN
der the heavy, over-arching eyebrows
his eyes shone angrily, like stars in a
cloudy sky (Mr Verey is something
of a poet, land he Numbered: Why
did you do that2' 1 ran after the boy,
gave him a silver coin and begged him
to turn around and smile at my en-
ployer. The boy smiled as only Ger
man boy can smile-for a consideration
and Mr. Clemens was happy and
good-tempered for the rest of the day."
Mark Twain dined with the German
emperor that evening, sitting at his
right hand A few days later police
man called at the hotel and demanded
that the two visitors should accomp1-
ny him to the police station
Mr.. Clemens readily complied He
asked no questions 1t was an adven-
ture and he seemed pleased. Much to
the Indignation of the officer on duty,
he did not remove his hat on entering
the Office but spent some time in look
ing for chair on which to sit. The
officer giared at him in establishment,
and 1 persuaded Mr.. Clemens to rise
and uncover his head
s.AI that was required of him. was TO
make a residential declaration The
hoped-for adventure had missed fire,
and Mr.. Clemens was obviously diSap-
pointed. He answered all the questions
put to him except one: What is your
religion?'
His handsome. leonine face took on
a sad, thoughtful expression. That
question 1 will not answer to any one
he said. MY belief is not of creeds or
L
to -ttempt TO explain it The officer
growled in his beard. and expressed
the opinion that the visitor should be
transferred to the care of a certain pub
lie institution
Mr. Clemens and the guide embarked
on a fortnights sail down the Rhone,
specially engaging a small craft and a
bOatman.
so far as local knowledge went.
says Mr.. Verey. 1.-The voyage had never
been performed before. Mr. Clemens.
however. was in search OF absolute
quietude, in order TO get on with his
book We wanted bed linen for the
boat, and an innkeeper lent Mr.. Glenn
ems a couple of new sheets, on condi-
ton that he dipped them in the RhOne
a few times and spread them out in the
sun. They are unbleached and too
rough for my guests at present, said
mine host, and if you Will do as 1 wish
you can have the loan of them for moth
ing The contract was sealed.
Throughout that long river trip Mr..
Clemens sat in the stern of the boat
writing from morning to night, and
smoking his favorite tobacco All! 1
can write here, Joseph, he said one
day. Then his eyes rested on the boat
man at the bows manipulating a single
oar Joseph he observed, why didn't
Then I could have described his clothes
and people would have inferred that we
hired a battleship instead of a cookie
she'll at francs a day, including the
skipper. I know all about admirals
and battleships, for 1 myself was once
a Mississippi pilot.
Mr.. Clemens, it appears. was rather
nervous. As they neared Poiters he
deserted a small breakwater some dis
tance ahead. He ordered the steers
man to pull the boat to the bank.
Il want to carry this bag ashore %
he exclaimed to Mr.. Verey. For mile
and a half Mr.. Clemens walked along
the riverside, bag in hand. When the
boat had safely negotiated the break
water he returned on board.
81 didn't want that bag to get wet,
he said.
Mr.. Verey ventured to smile.
You don't doubt my courage. do
you, Joseph" he asked. Mr.. Verey
strained a point and answered in the
negative
plore tiny island in the middle of
bank the boat had disappeared.
That's excellent. Joseph" exclaimed
Mr.. Clemens. "Marooned on a Rhone
island. 1t would be better. though, if
we got lost as well. How long do you
think this island is?"
About 800 yards, sir" was the re-
ply.
HIN! I'm afraid it's too small to get