Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-07-12
STYLES ~ MEMS DRESS
SOLID COMFORT THE MOTIVE IN
SUMMER WEAR.
Another Case Observation-Disclosures
dictions Gone Astray-Panama
Hat is Doomed.
From the Haberdasher.

surprises which attest the uncertainty of the
| forecasts of experts in the art of predict
| ing the characteristics of the mode long be-
| fore they have been tried and proved ac-
| ceptable. The predictions so freely INDUCED
| in month or two ago have been, in several
| important instances, totally upset. Fash
| ions that had been given the most unquali-
| fled Endorsement of crack retailers, shriveled
! up when exposed to the critical and exact
| ing trade that sets the mode for the better
| classes The first of the old favorites to
| meet with that quiet neglect which means
| sartorial ostracism was the Panama hat,
the genuine and the numerous limitations
The hat had reached the over-popular stage,
| and some hatters found it expedent, early
! in the season, to withdraw their enthusiast
| tic and over-confident Endorsements. They
gracefully accepted the Situation and rec
| commended to their most particular patrons
| headwear less popular with the street loun-
| gers and the East Side bourgeois than the
| Panama. The substitutes had made this
rather good-looking hat sartorial wreck
The two-dollar affair has driven the twenty
| dollar and the hundred-dollar isthmian hat
| valetwards.
In it's place we have the becoming split
| straw boater. either 21sx2h or 21hx3 They
| have black ribbons. although the colored
| ribbon is not entirely tabooed OF course
! Panamas will be worn. Men are not in
| clined to sacrifice vested interests, to use
| Ing the prediction that this is the last year
| of the Panama craze
The Wide Tie.
| Another shock to the prophets is the in
PRODUCTION of the straight, wide tie, which
one can hardly find outside the smartest
! shops. The batswing is still the seller in
| the popular sense. and 1t Is only to get
| away from uniformity and commences
that exclusive trade suddenly turned to the
| old straight-cut style. These ties are ~ or
| ~ inches wide and are made in the most
| staple effects in rumchundas. The indigo
| grounds and white spots are very good
| These staple treatments are also shown in
| folded-in four-in-hands. or rather four-in-
| hands which have the seam up the center Of
the back These cravats are worn with mod
| crate height turn-doWn collars, with round
| ed points. and they are not very tightly
| tied, not so tightly at least as was the
| vogue last summer. Another new tie is q
| straight affair. with banged ends made of
| srenadine. The center shows q net like
| ground, with neat figure and the edges are
in solid stripe. This makes a very eff
| fective bow. Batswings are in rumchun-
! das as well as baratheas and other silks
| They are broad and should not be tied Up
In shirts there is much that is new. vet
| paradoxical asit may seem, the new things
are old One seesolittle of the tans in fine
shops. The dirty brown looking shirts never
| appealed to my taste. Yelows, tans, greens
| and browns are. hard and very unsuitable
colors for shirtings, and were certain to be
| teel trade. The, best dressed men in New
| york are buying the most modest shirtings
| Neat black or blue, or oxblood stripes very
| widely spaced.r are offered in variety of
| groupings and combinations. These shirt
| ings plat WELL and it is the plated soft
shirt that is fulfilling all expectations. So
| long as men go, waistcoatess. the fullness
| of the plated front is better than the fat
| plain, soft front. ..,
The Well-Dressed Man.
! If I We're to describe the well-dressed
! summer man al. 1902 would put it down
something like this: Observation-Disclosures
of fine nainsook| with very wide legs reach
| ing to the knees; shirt of cotton without
any opening, and made with large neck and
very large armhoies, after the style of shirt
| adopted by oarsmen. The half-hose would
| be OF fine Isle, the ground in black or a
! dark shade, harmonizing with the colorings
| in the suit. The relief effects would be a
neat embroidered instep design or plain side
ciocklngs The shirt, fine madras. plated
| neSiSe. with square point narrow link cuffs
| The effect would be very neat stripe
treatment in one color. The collar would
De 2A-inch fold affair. closely meeting in
front with rounded points and wide stitch
| ing. The tie would be 4 Inch rumchunda
| with square ends, tied snugly. but not
| tlghtly. The shoes would be low-cut black
ana medium width lacings of black silk The
nat would be a split straw sailor with black
! paho, low crown and wide brim. The belt
would be a solid black leather, one inch
! harhess-made affair The suit would consist
| OF a slngle-breasted Jacket and trousers
| made of light worsted homespun The
| handkerchlef would be plain white linen
or linen with a neat colored hem This
| thlnk, is clear description of one type of
| the "eil-dressed man Of the period.
| Conservatism is Supreme.
| There Is variety enough in the mode, even
II conservatism reigns supreme. The ten
dency toward color has been checked, not
discountenanced entirely. 1t has been rele-
gated to legitimate relief effects and dis
| couraged In places where it was simply used
| ID attract attention. Conspcuousness is
| sartorial crime just much today as II
! was In the days when the curly headed
much-oeJeweled. fiippantly-dressed idiot of
the age made the court of Louis Quinze ri
| dicuious. These tops wore cravats of mus
IN TWO yards wide in which their powdered
| SIMS were buried, a coat, the skirts of
winch reached little lower than the hips,
| Wnlle pantaloons were ample enough to give
| tneSe candles the appearance of wearing
| skiIts Add to this capricious costume hair
| iaLlnS IN long, thick corkscreWS over the
| immense craVat, and hat so extremely
small that it was difficult to keep it upon
| the neat, and you have a fair description
OF the 1ncroyable of the period as portrayed
| py NINE Junot in her memoirs.
Inc four-in-hand is as popular as ever
| II is IN up-and-down stripes, in solid colors,
| IN neat effects and in thwart or across
STRIPES The latter Is the exclusive oddity
| or the season and will be worn by men
VINO do not care to follow the mob. But
| nevertheless, l cannot say that they look
| Well To have the stripes on the shirt run
| lng one way and those on the cravat run
| hing another way is not conducive to that
| harmony of line SO essential where contrasts
| are to be avoided. The four-in-hands must
| pc rather tightly knotted, If worn with
| rold collar. and just below the knot. pre-
| clsely In the center of the apron, the pin
| should be inserted. =, The four-in-hands with
1aney ends and cepter stripes and designs
| made to fit them with geometrical precision
are among the favored styles.
Wing Collars Going.
The wing collars are gradually disappear
Ing, although they are being worn to some
extent The fold collar will undoubtedly dis
place them as soon1as the weather becomes
bit warmer. While it was possible to
wear wing collars, they looked very we'll
With the four,tn-han and the plated
shirts. noticed while at the Yale COM
mencement. that al great many Of the boys