Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-10-18
TWO WOM{NI'ABRO
v. I
Early Stages of a Russian
Journey Described.
FIRST TASTE OF voDKY
DOUBTFUL LOOKING DISHES, BUT
APPETIZING.
Dinner Aboard Ship With Ice Cream
as Dessert-Trying
"Kwoss."
Written for The Evening Star.

Written for The Evening Star.
We had fully determined to spend q short
time in the Caucasus if it could be in any
way managed, and SO, in spite of discour-
aging reports from all sides as to the diff
culties to be encountered at the Russian
frontier, the trouble about passports and
the danger of bandits on the mountains
we started boldly forth, two women with
a courier. We took the Orient Express to
Vienna, and our troubles did not begin
until we came to the frontier.
There if we had not had courier who
understood and spoke the language, we
would have had a serious time, fear The
passports are taken at the door of the
domaine and kept until just before the train
starts, when an official, standing in a sort
of box calls out the name on each passport
and allows about ten seconds for it to be
claimed.
AS the name has hardly the semblance of
the sound of your own, especially if it
chance to be English, it is necessary to
listen very closely to be able to recognize
your passport.
The domaine examination was In our case
not severe, as we had taken the precau-
ton to bring with us only large bags and
rug bundles, although my four-foot fold
AS the examiners at Woloczyska under
stand harry a word of German or French
we would have had some annoyance, L fear,
except for our treasure of courier.
Then came the scramble for tickets for
the wagon Its sleeping carrtage), which
must be bought in the domaine, and then
when the doors are open the rush and jos
Ting of dozens of porterS, laden with lug
gage screams and hoarse shouts as they
collide in their hurry, and finally a blessed
lull, when one is ushered into the sleeping
carriage.
The night cannot be said to be comfort
able. for the beds are sheetless and pill
lowess unless you wish to pay fairly
large additional sum, and the room is
lighted by one small candle, which, after
the glories of the Orient Express, we found
very dismal and also inclined to be odorif-
erous.
Odessa is too much like all other large
and civilized towns to be very interesting
except that the drojki drivers wear the pic
turesque costumes of all Russian drivers,
a long coat of cotton or wool, thickly pad
ded into flutes a. the back of the waist,
and leather belt studded with silver.
Their Deck Company.
AS we had not very much time at our dis
posal and found that one of the best boats
was to sail that same afternoon at 4, we
determined to take passage in her at once,
and so we set sail on the Black sea on a
were full of all sorts and conditions of peo-
pie. Jews from the. interior, with their
one black oily curl over each ear, and eau
casian merchants in white wool coats, with
very full skirts high white lambs wool
hats, a row Of cartridges across their
chests and a large knife in their belts;
Russian officers and Turkish gentlemen
travelling for pleasure, and asthmatic old
people on their way to still balmier chimes.
1t was a most interesting crowd to watch.
The Black sea, far from being black, is
blue, and the Ioveliest imaginable color.
The scenery between Odessa and Batoum
Is at first uninteresting. Low hills burnt
brown by the sun and not tree to be
seen, and 1t is like this except in one or
two places all along the Crmean coast, but
the exceptions make up for all the rest,
for now and again the mountains loom up
above the clouds and then come lower and
lower to the waters edge. where they end
in cliffs of the sternest and darkest char
acter. At other places enchanting bays,
almost nclosed by the hills, lie blue and
brilliant, with little villages here and there
on the shores
Our tickets for the voyage of four days
on the largest and best ship of the line.
Grand Duke Constantine, had cost us $40. so
only, which includes everything except a
matter of a few roubles in fees. The ships
are about the size of our Cuban steamers
or largest coasting vessels, and the cabins
are big enough to contain two narrow iron
bedSteadS and WaShstand, with racks and
hooks galore. Between the beds there was
room enough to put my fOur-foot rubber
bath for daily tub, and the only draw
| back we found was that the beds had but
one sheet, so We had to take the very clean
white counterpart as second one. There
are windows, not ports, so one can have
| plenty OF air; the attendance is good and
the table excellent At in the morning
we had glasses of hot weak tea and some
| biscuit brought to our cabin. and dressed
| leisurely for the 1870 breakfast or lunch,
which always begins with sakushka and
| Vodky-with-bitters. AS an appetizer | can
| recommend vOdky with enthusiasm, and
though have always disliked the taste and
| even smell of brandy and whisky, found
| Vodky very agreeable, and / never missed
| my tiny Hqueur glass before beginning
lunch or dinner, always taking it at one
swallow in the approved manner. Sakushka
l never entirely mastered, although the
other half of the party quite reveled in it,
! i'll oil, fresh caviare, sliced sausage, small
mushrooms, picked, and many other
bizarre and to me, doubtful looking things.
After the sakushka came fish, and two
Kinds or meat with vegetables, and cheese
to end the always deliciously cooked meal.
| Dinner was a little more elaborate. After
| our swallow of vodky came very palatable
| thick soup, usually of cream and cabbage
| IN some form but always exceedingly good );
then hSh and three meats in courses. with
vegetables and as dessert lice cream We
We're quite stunned when our national dish
appeared on the table in small glasses, and
@, who has a decided fondneSs for sweets
in any form, but above all ice cream felt
that life was now quite complete. There is
always at dessert a large silver tray of
Russian sweets, to be passed around after
the fruit and with the coffee, but | cannot
confess a liking for any of them with the
exception of nougat, which is not peculiar
to Russia, of course. They appeared to be
fruit jellies. but of a coarse description and
tasting decidedly of gefatine: and also some
sugary connection of egg which we found
| still less palatable. -
The Jolly Captain.
| When I think of the captain of that gal
| liant ship, words fail me, for he was one of
the jolliest, kindest- hearted of sailors. He
| welcomed US to breakfast in the heartiest
manner, shared with us his wine, doctored
our vodky with English bitters. which he
| said were much superior to the Russian
| make and his ready and very hearty laugh
encouraged one in making few feebly
witty remarks while HIS delightfully."- faulty
English made one feel willing to try other
tongues with him. The captain and officers
| OF this line are all taken from the Russian
navy, SO we were told. and those we met
were as hearty and honest Russian gentle
men as one could wish to find They are