Bisbee daily review., 1902-09-11
New York Fashion Gossip
Maud Griffin
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New ! Orh. sep .lo--T dh iaShiOhS are asserting themselves strenuousl! enough when We consider that the nis' half of the first autumn has not yet passed by, for not only are they dls- played in the shops. but one sees the new seasons styles worn almost every where by modish women.
 The fashionable novelties most af- fected at D. esent gre hats. The white or light colored French felt sailor or Maid Marian hat is little short oi ubiuuitous. But charming design II is. becomingly crowning the face and ends indescribable smartness to the gown.
 For the tailor-made street dress Il IS trimmed simply with rosette o1 VeNet or with several bands of satin rlDOoh' finished with va. ious sorts or fancy buckles: but for dressier occasions there come more fancitul shapes ana more novelty of trimmings. Blids anu feathers promise to be used much III autumn millinery. Dark blue ieits will be trimmed with the same coior satin ribbon or taffeta and with thls there will be combined a orililahl green parrot with red tipped wings and barely perceptible tints Of yelio" on the head and breast.
 Light grey felts are trimmed wlth gorgeous birds of paradise ln alireu or all-grey. while the white enects are decorated with black velvet ana whlte taffeta There are also many pretty nale eucre tints and these are orna mented with soft rich shades oi darh brown that blend deliciously with the paler tone of the hat and go well "ltn almost any gown.
 The shirt waist suit which was found so convenient during the sum mer is among the smartest du' 'uiiih modes We see it developed III 'he thing. soft wool materials, rlmneu with braid. bias bands or SIX or sa'ih' or with buttons, or with all. lhere is really no limit to the various eHi- bellishments which may be appIieu Uo a gown this year ana eiaooIatloH seems to be the keynote ol Iashlone' The dainty and tiny black ana Wnre checks which were so 1ashlohapie III taffeta are still to hold sway in plalds and shirt waist suits designed ol .nese materials will be laid in box plaits as reoards both blouse and skirt and the ninines will be carried out in red and 5,,u green Other uuieter designs are simply stitched with blacks, and II
 
 may be added.
 An almost regretable feature of new fall fashions is the omission of the drop skirt. Women who have studled the art of dressing well on little money have found this such convenience and pleasing deception. Ever since first appearance there have been those who have made one drop skirt answer the fundamental purpose Of several oyer-dresses, and now tha It IS 10 pc discarded it will be sorely missed.
 Thee seems 10 be method In the madness of Dame Fashion, however, and she intends recompensing her dls- ciples for one loss with another dain- ty feature of dress-the hip yohe- Not that this is new by any means, for there have been yoked-frocks TOT two seasons past, but never before have they been so novel as this season. They are to be cut in aE sorts Of fanc- iful shapes and describe the most eiao- crate patterns. Then there VIII De rows and rows of rich little buttons sewn around the lower edge to give them a distinguished appearance ana taken all in all the new yokes can be regarded as a novelty.
 The handsome entamines, voiles and French mohairs in colors suited for either day or evening wear, are being largely used by dressmakers who are now preparing autumn outfits for tnelr patrons. In heavier wools, fancy GOV erts and double-faced cashmere shares with Venetian cloth the honors of pop ularity in the making of tailor cos tumes. Misunderstanding, colored silk embroidery and applique designs of heavy lace form the leading decora- ions for these suits; graduated guimpe trimmings, strappings and tuck1ngs are also used on gowns of simple make.
 There are novelties in all depar' ments of dress and all are delightful for their variety, nothing said of their beauty. In the matter of jackets the fashionable futurity of the Eton IS somewhat doubtful; if it is affected for winter wear the faithful little de' sign will be elongated below the waist line and fitted so closely that 1t VIII be known as basque rather han as an Eton. The tendency in jackets is to have them extend beyond the beltline. Those after the Norfolk pattern are made to look exceedingly chic by be- ing beIted in with wrought silver belts. finished of around the neck win turn-down muslin or batiste era vats
 Laces will play prominent part in the decoration of fall gowns. The patterns applied to street gowns will be mostly black, but there are many delicious novelties in dark brown, in terwoven with red and green embroid- cries and sometimes glint of gold or silver These, however, are expensive and require the most costly materials for a background.
 Another old friend which is under revival now is Tussore. Its deep ecru