The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-03-21
FOR FEMININE READERS
SOME SUGGESTIONS AS To WHAT
WILL BE WORN THIS SPRING.
Claimed for Women's Clubs that They
stimuIate Courtesy Among the
Members-Here and There.

There is but little change in the shape of
new dress skirts. but as to the fabric it
would seem almost impossible 10 make a
mistake in its fashioning, as the choice is
now practically without end. says the New
York Evening Post. Among the novel or
repeated fancies for the coming season are
smart little Gibson girl models formed of
lace, net and dainty summer textiles in cot
ton and silk. Breton waists, with natty
bands of trimming crossing the front. in
graded horizontal lines from chest to belt;
French cuirass styles, heavily boned, close
ly fitted and trimmed a la militaire; Louis
coats, with very smart waistcoats formed
of satin brocade or of peau de sole, hand
somely embroidered or otherwise decorated;
simple but elegant Directoire corsages, with
cape-like collars and picturesque sleeves;
French round waists, with their sashes or
pretty chatelaine effects at the belt; new
Russian blouses, fastened on the shoulder
and under the arms; quaint nuns waists,
with simple surplice folds from shoulder to
belt; also %corselet. Empire, Du Barry and
Pompadour models, with short sleeves, for
full-dress wear, and so on. ad infinitum.
Fashion has decreed that jewels need not
necessarily be extravagant, in kind and
price, but they must be chic. So-called
pearls and opals lately purchased can only
be found to be limitations by the most ex-
perienced experts. The jeweler calls these
secondary stones. The chrysophrase is
one of them, so is the aquamarine. Topazes
and amethysts are much used in decorating
fine gold lorgnette chains, lace and hair
pins, and tiny clippings of emeralds, dia-
monds and other precious gems are used TO
enhance the effect of various fashionable
ornaments, the clippings being used 10
frame or outline the various devices made Of
these secondary" stones. The pigeon-blood
ruby, the sapphire, emerald, opal and other
real gems are wonderfully duplicated
among glittering stones delicately faceted
and highly pOliShed-that come no further
than from our own mountains of Colorado.
Selecting the silks for gowns necessary
for the summer wardrobe is in these days
an artistic pleasure when textiles, quail
ties end designs make the unmade fabric
a thing of beauty. There is this year shown
a WondrOuS choice of ~taffetas, India silks,
crepes de chine, plain and fancy faille, peau
de sole. Loulslne satin and satin foulard.
All these are seen in every color of the
rainbow and a great many more colors that
were never III any rainbow while even in
black and white melanges alone are ex-
hibited novelties and effects innumerable.
The taffeta silks have had a very ques-
ttonable name; for many, indeed, most of
these weaves have worn badly. and there
mas been a very discouraging uncertainty
as TO whether they would not cut within a
fortnight after being made up. The more
reputable manufacturers and importers will
not warrant taffeta silks, and yet the fabric
Is so beautiful that there are very few
women who are not willing to take the
chances, and consequently there is as great
a demand as ever for taffeta silks. with
peau de sole as a very strong rival. The
expensive qualities of taffeta are supposed
TO be more durable, but even these are un-
certain. The softer, very pliable weaves
are rather more to be relied upon. and there
is a twilled variety that looks like the old
fashioned black silks which our grand
mothers selected for their best gowns
when it was not yet called ~taffeta. This
wears most satisfactorily both for dresses,
coats and skirts.
Waists of cream white crepe de chine or
India null are tucked all over from neck to
belt with matching sleeves and made with
a slightly loose and fun dip front over
hanging a belt of real gold fligree or Il
bebe sash, with loops and long ends at the
back. on these waists are either diamond
shaped medallions of embroidery or fine
Venise lace set just below the bust, or long
points of Vandyke lace extend upward from
the belt, front and back. These waists are
fastened on the shoulder and under the
arm, leaving the tucks and trimming un-
broken. Other waists of this variety are
fastened at the back.