The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1902-05-28

Cage
Egg Cookery.
Although eggs are so universally used
and hold conspicuous place on every hotel
and restaurant bill of fare the methods
of cooking are not as numerous, or in
many cases as dainty, as the nature of
this class of food will permit.
The most common, because considered
the most wholesome and convenient ways
of cooking them are boiling, poaching,
and frying, and the result varies through
all the several degrees of good, bad and
Indifferent There seems to be as little
certainty about a cooks performance in
this line as there. is in regard to the con-
dition and quality of the egg.
Some authorities give a high estimate
Of the food value Of the egg, while others
hold quite the opposite view, even going
so far as to consider it very poor adult
food, almost destitute of taste as well as
lacking IN food value although they con
cede that its organic substances, the
"phosphorized ingredients which are
mainly materials intended Tor the con-
struction of the brain and nerves of the
chick, make suitable, easily dlgested food
for the young human also.
Eggs, while nitrOgenous and fatty. con-
tain no starch or sugar and they there
fore combine suitably with articles which
supply these ailments. Eggs are not
spoiled by long keeping, but Ire not nearly
as digestible as fresh ones and not SO
although for some methods such as
poaching. an egg may be too fresh when
neW-lalQ eggs can be procured Inere IS
little danger of the city dWeller having
to guard against this contingency, but
quite the reverse However, it is well to
know that TINS possibility VIII explain, IN
some cases, the failure which results in
spite. of all the care of skillful egg
one who prides themselves in their art
should select eggs that are two days old
not over, as the very new-laid egg is too
For poaching successfully the white of
the egg must be firm and clear like jelly,
it sets at once into a round, smooth
edged white patty, just sufficiently hard
with the yolk showing through a thin
BOILING AN EGG.
The principal of boiling an egg is more
difficult to carry out than its simplicity
warrants, on account of the many differ
ent ideas and hkings in regard to the
degree to which an egg should be boiled.
The fact is, very few people would
fancy an egg which is properly very soft
boiled. as they frequently order it. They
would consider it quite UNDERGONE, as no,
part of the egg is set while the voII1 is
merely heated through. To very soft boil
place the egg in boiling water for two
minutes, then remove, and Immediately
coating of eurdled white next the shell
while the remainder of the white is thick
simply warm. The three-minute boil is
the preferred way and considered the
most digestible, while the eggs has more
flavor than when boiled longer In three
minutes the white will be completely set,
but not solid but the yOlk remains fluid.
The solid boil requires longer than three
and less than ten minutes, while the hard
boil may be continued until the white
passes the hard. elastic, shiny stage and
both white and yOlk reach a granular
consistency, which stage is considered
more digestible by some, but less good in
taste
The fact is. while mathematical rules
may be laid down and observed in cook
ing eggs in a laboratory or cooking school
or even on the breakfast table, where it
is assumed that all the controlling condi-
lions areu ndeIslooo anu put one egg Is
cooked at time, these rules are not
entirely practical in the kitchen when
any number of eggs and different hkings
must be considered The cook must de-
pend largely upon her s'intuitiveness,
gained by practice and desire of success,
in obtaining the desired result. Boiling
an egg, therefore. will remain more or
less game of chance in the hands of
the average S Soo 5i4r7r, rccs
= On the other hand. pOaching eggs is
quite the reverse. This process is boiling
the egg with the shell removed. And yet
it must not be understood that possible
failure can not attend this method, as
well. The principal rule to be observed,
| however, is selecting eggs in proper con-
dition as to age. This accomplished, the
road to success is as follows: Half fill
your frying pan with clear boiling water
and place over the fire, add little salt
and vinegar; break an egg carefully into
a cup: place the pan where the water Will
| keep below the boiling point; slip in the
/ egg: then break another and quickly add
/ in the same way and continue to add
as many as the pan will hold without
crowding. Let them stand until the
whites are set, then place where the
water will come to a boil, then directly
remove the eggs with a slice or strain
/ ing ladle; trim the ragged edges a large
cake cutter can be used for this purpose.
and place each egg on a dainty round of
| nicely toasted bread. The eggs may be
| kept in good shape by placing muffin
| rings in the pan of boiling water and
! dropping the eggs into them.
This toast may first be spread with an
! chOvy paste or butter. mushroom or Wor-
| cestershire sauce or q little curry sauce
| or grated cheese, before the eggs are
| placed on the slices Such dishes are nice
for a simple luncheon, as they are tasty
and quite substantial for light meal with
| a cup of coffee or cocoa and salad
FRIED EGGS
These are perhaps more frequently called
1 for by the Wayfarer than any other food
After exhaustive study Of the restau-
rant menu the average traveller will com
promise on oh, gimme fried eggs" Not
! an unpalatable or unattractive dish from
/ the hands of a slillful egg cook but like
| the boiled or poached egg, a dish easily
/ spoiled.
The ordinary way is to break the egs
to spread as they will: this gives then
the ragged unsightly appearance. not
pleasing to the dainty eaters. At small cosi
one can obtain q pan which has little wells
into which each egg is broken, similar Il
| the pOacher. IN this way the eggs are KEEP
in good shape, preventing the whites from
thinning out into dry, uneven edges ant
getting too hard This same utensil /.
used for baking eggs in the oven. Do no
brown the egg or fry too long unless Vol
Drowned butter may be poured over tn,
eggs, as a sauce, when they are done
/ adding q little vinegar to give 1t zest Oh
/ while the eggs are cooking haste then