The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1902-07-06

philosophy of mourning lies in sparIng
the feelings Of those in grief. BY wear
Ing recognized garb we set ourselves
apart. as it were. and are often spared
thoughtless comment. 10 have recos.
nized that this can be accomplished with
out burdening the body is to have gained
much, and oil thinking people must be
glad that the change has been made.
For the present season barege Is much
In vogue, with yelling and wool batiste
for the more substantial gowns Whether
they shall be crepe trimmed or made
severely with only llen-stitching and
tucks as a finish, is left to the individual
to decide. One OF the most distinguished
women OF society prefers sever simplicity
and Is both elegant and essentially a
mourner. A most tasteful costume of
barege combined with crepe marks the
other extreme and serves to illustrate
how elaborate black can be made. The
foundation is dull finished taffeta. The
skirt Of barege is simply hemmed and
plated, in the sun-burst style, which is
one of the latest freaks OF fashion; albeit
it is a revival and not really new. The
bodice IS plated similarly, but confined
at the belt. The round yoke is of tuck
ed nousseline, unlined, and the big coll
lar is Of the same material finished with
applique figures Of crepe. Between the
open fronts is revealed a vest Of crepe.
The sleeves are in Hungarian style, snug
at the shoulders and broadening to huge
puffs at the wrists. About the arms,
combining the fitness midway between
the shoulders and elbows, are bands of
crepe. and the deep cuffs are of the same
sonlt1re material. The soft pliable barege
lends itself to the sunburst effect sngu-
larly well, and the gown is undeniably
handsome and smart. The severity Of
the simpler garments may and does APP
peal to q certain sense of fitness and dig
nifty, but that there is inherent elegance
in the crepe and barege is not to be
denied.
Crepe is far less heavy and burden
some than once was the case. AS 4 re-
suit it can be used with freedom and
bring about better results. Entire gowns
lined with thin China silk are seen, and
far moro comfortable than at first
thought seems possible. while wells and
trimmings are freely worn. The long
veil, shrouding the figure. makes part
of almost all first mourning costumes but
is worn for q far shorter period than
was the case n few years ago. Few, If
any women allow 1t to hang over the
face longer than a month, and six
laid aside. In addition to the low bonnet
fiat hats are Worn and have the veil so
draped that it can be drawn closely or
thrown back at Will. While the dull fin
ish of yelling and barege render them
peculiarly desirable for mourning wear,
there are silks or lighter weights woven
for the purpose that are above reproach.
Such a material crepe trimmed is always
handsome and need be made no more
than one chose. Where crepe is
eliminated, the style must be simple
whatever the fabric may be- So much
black is Worn by those in colors that
otherwise there is no distinctive charac-
teristic. An excellent model utilizes tuczs
and hemstitching. The skirt includes a
circular founce that is he1nmed and
tucked and is headed by a group of
tUclls ana is itself arranged in tiny
tucks at the hips. The bodice is an open
blouse with vest of tucked dull finished
chiffon and is completed by a 1ichu-lille
collar that is simply hemmed.
Dinner gowns are exceedingly simple