The Savannah morning news., 1902-08-17
SMART SUMMER GOWNS.
Some Are Marvels of Expense and
Elaborate Detail.


Elaborate Detail.
simplicity" sounds we'll in describ-
ing summer gowns, but the synonyms
are not expressed in the materials, the
style or the cost of the gowns of this
season. Lace has never been used in
greater profusion. and organizes,
crepes, thin woods, silks and even the
cheap limitations in cottons and mer-
cerized are trimmed with lace. ALI
lace gowns are still very smart, and
they have been used a lot lately for
wedding dresses. They have the ad-
vantage of being serviceable, 5 well
as elaborate in appearance. and are
equally becoming to matrons and young
girls.
The laces used are nearly always
heavy, the thinner ones suggesting
only use for balls and evening wear
for which tulle Or net might be a rival.
The most airy and delightful effects
are gotten py using lace in "billows"
and flounces, even to several ruff1es or
pleatings as a balayeuse under the
edge of a skirt but this means yards
and yards of lace. and the most skill
full handling in order TO give the chic
effect that is so desirable. The really
elaborate look that may be given a
gown with cheap lace is astonishing
and many of the imported novelties
are very cheaply put together, but
command a good price, because they
have an expensive look. On white or
delicately tinteu muslins very cheap
lace, preferably that with a yellow
tint, the effect is very fancy, and
gown of that sort makes every woman
look danny and graceful.
A dream of a summer gown is made
of pale yellow organdie with insertions
of yellow lace-a dull shade that makes
a subtle and artistic contrast with the
lemon shade of the material. White
organdie and other sheer goods are
still combined most successfully with
yellow laces, and an especially fetch
ing idea is carried out in pale rose silk
null, on which rows and rows of yell
low lace insertion are used.
Black lace is seldom seen on the
light gowns of fashionable women, and
give very unstylish look to the few
women who wear them. Black on white
and white on black are as popular as
ever, and certainly are strikingly re-
freshing to see. The difference in the
becomingness of the two combinations
is difficult to explain, but it is quite
true that black and white is distinctly
more smart than white and black, and
suits more women better. Oddly
enough, it makes most women look
very youthful. Just a little time ago it
was looked upon as a regular old
lady's dress but that idea has quite
passed, and a fresh pretty girl looks
far prettier and fresher in a black
muslin dotted with white, and a very
simple frock of that description has an
air of indescribable style and go"
Ethel Barrymore is one pretty girl
who seldom varies her gowns, and she
almost invariably wears black and
white combined in some way. A black
gown of any material trimmed with
white lace always attracts attention,
apart from the detail of the costume
and some of the best styles seen at the
races this year were in black, with
huge collars and deep cuffs or other
trimming of heavy, pure white Irish
lace. The most serViceable and alto
gether comfortable thin frock a woman
may have, out of which she will get a
lot of comfort, is a black organdie
tucked from. the throat to the HEM the
tucks running horizontally around a
simple, full bodice that fastens down
the back; elbow sleeves, and skirt of
tucks a bit horizontal above a full
flounce that is deeper in the back than
/ the front.
Goodness, fairy-lilxe sheerness is the
look that gowns must have from now
until the end of the hot weather, and
the most lovely muslins are shown.
Organdie, except in plain colors, is lit
tie seen, but quite the same effect is
produced with fabrics that are sold by
other names-batiste, gauze, null and
even old-fashioned linen lawns that
have been revived with a good deal of
enthusiasm. Every woman should
have a black dotted net, point d'esprit,
tucked and lace-trimmed, bib-high
bodice and elbow sleeves and an end
less variety of fine. fussy little ways
of finishing and giving a lacy look to
the costume. A gown of this descrip-
ton answers for almost every occasion
conceivable after the middle of the aft
ernoon. The nets are sold at all prices
in dozens of patterns, but it is hope
less to start out with any of the very
cheap nets, for they are so frail they
are not worth the labor and expense OF
makeup.
black net has dot large enough
to look markedly black and narrow
gauze ribbon is quilted in fine ruchngs,
alternating with the material and in |
sertions of fne tucked mousseline.
black incline hat laden with ostrich |
plumes is worm and the hat. too an
swers for every gown in mademoiselle's |
WdIuOue, even Win tHe udlHIy WHlle !
muslin. The black hat, broad and fat |
and simply trimmed, is the hat of the !
season, and is affected conspicuousIy |
by every woman who helps to set the |
fashion. Mrs. Clara Bloodgood who. |
when she went from the drawing room |
to the stage, became the fashion ac-
tress of New York, always wears a |
simple, rather stiff. broad, all-black |
hat, with any but a very dressy frock |
An evening gown of pale blue crepe |
that serves for but a foundation for a