davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-06-15
OF INTEREST TO WOMEN
THE BUSINESS WOMAN Is NOT ILL
ADAPTED TO DOMESTIC LIFE.
The Brides Chest of Linen in Fashion
Again-Taste in Dress-Enjoy
the Present.

/ have always maintained, says Adelaide
L. Rouse. in Under My own Roof" and
my own case has proved that 1 right.
that a woman with brains will find her
bearings if she has to keep house, even
though she has had little or no previous
training. A business life does not unfit a
woman for a domestic life. The very quail
ties which makes her a success in business
-promptness, accuracy, cool Judgment
are needed in housekeeping. 1 love to see
bookish woman manage a house well, and
the sight is not so rare as the croakers
would have us believe. For many years L
have studied the woman question in its
various phases, and 1 have come to the
conclusion that a woman who has earned
money knows the value of a dollar better
than one who has never given her nerve
and brain to earn one. If 1 were asked by
a young business man TO advise him in the
choice of a wife. 1 would say, Marry a
business woman. She knows what your sal
airy costs you in physical and mental
force" Then, too, a woman who has
brushed shoulders against the world will
appreciate the shelter of home more
than one who has never known what it is
TO miss it,
There is much nonsense written in these
latter days upon many subjects, but the
business woman gets more than her share
Of this attention. At first there was great
hue and cry for fear her health could not
stand the strain. Now the danger is that
she is going to take bread from the mouths
of the young men of the period. She
thinks she is smart, and she goes into busl-
ness to show what she can do, is the
argument l have heard from men who
should know better. She does nothing OF
the kind; she goes into business because 1t
pays better than teaching, and because she
need not pull wire" she must If she
wishes to keep her position as a teacher.
But she does not stay in a business posi-
ton one minute longer than she must. a
business life is constant grind" After
few years nervous prostraton gets hold of
her, and she takes her first long vacation.
After that she finds she has to rest oftener,
unless she wants prostration a second time.
Just what is TO become of her it is too soon
TO tell; she is product of this generation,
and we cannot get returns yet. / have often
stood and watched the great army of bust
ness women pouring over the Brooklyn
bridge between and o'clock, and Won
dered what they will be doing when they
are twenty years older. The idea of a ste
nographer of forty-five or fifty is rather in
congruous. A woman can teach till she
drops down with old age, but will an elder
ly woman be allowed to click away at
typewriter. or will she be superseded by
younger woman? l have heard more than
one young woman PROFOUND this query.
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-06-15

the artists attention. Its criss-cross trim
ming included tiny tucks. white lace me-
dallions and bands of narrow linen colored
taffeta. The sleeves upper part was lace.
the lower was pleated NULL Last here is a
grass linen over crimson silk. with crimson
velvet trimmings. an altogether handsome
example OF this new fashion.
Brussels net in white. black and colors is
a fashionable material for summer evening
gowns. IL is fine in quality and makes a
pretty foundation for insettings OF lace,
which may be in the form OF insertions or
medallions. In white. with ecru lace il is
very stylish. Gray and ecru nets decorated
with a little gold or silver thread en-
broidery form some very handsome gowns.
Gray sequins on gray net are lovely If prop
erly varied in shading. To get on without
costly embroideries the nets are tucked all
over and trimmed moderately with lace
Bands OF embroidered pongee are one of
the newer trimmings and are used for pom
see. linen or grass linen and batiste gowns.
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-06-15

row lace edged ruff1es from the waist down
to the graduated founce. Hemstitched ruff
f1es are prettier, but only the slenderest
of women look we'll in this sort of skirt.
Null skirts shirred in deep puffs to the
graduated f1ounce are much less trying.
The skirt is gored first, then shirred. so
the upper puffs are quite fiat and not so
full as to make the wearer seem larger than
she is.
A half dozen stylish new model gowns
are pictured here. and are worth brief de-
scription. The first in the second illustra-
ton was white etamine over white silk.
The next was white linen. with tabs of
embroidered pongee and yoke and collar
of linen colored embroidery. Belt and
knots were emerald green velvet. Last in
this picture is a white null, skirt and
shoulder collar trimmed with trellised
crimson velvet baby ribbon, outlined with
cream lace medallions. Lace bands, a
tucked white chiffon yoke and collar and
a crimson velvet belt, with handsome gilt
buckle. were other details. A new cut
OF coat-an achievement. now that new
ness in coats has been in hot demand for
months-was the chief point of the wedge
wood blue wolfe at the left In the con-
Guiding sketch. White moire, embroidered
with silver soutache. gave it's trimmings
An elaborate linen colored batiste next had
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-06-15

er. the effect is much richer: but the ex-
pense is also greatly augmented, and so.
too, is the labor, since IL is a difficult mat
ter to adjust the unpliable leather neatly.
The contents, while more important than
the chest itself, are apt TO vary according
10 the nearness or remOteness of the we'd
ding day. When there are no actual pros
poets, the maiden devoteS her energy 10
elaborate Battenberg center pieces, en-
brOidered doilies and yards of hemStitched
ruffiing. These commit her to nothing. II,
by force OF circumstances. she remains a
spinster. she cheers herself with the reflec-
ton that they will still do for Christmas
presents Her chest belongs 10 the divan
type; yet If she be young and attractive.
the maiden speaks openly and quite I'M
blushingly about her chest With the COM
ing of the prince, embroidered napkins are
added 10 the dOilies and centerpieces. These
are made, preferably, OF hne quality OF
rOund-thread linen, cut eighteen inches
square. These are either hemStitched or
fringed, then embroidered. While colored
silks are still used for the purpose, the
latest fancy is for the solid white en-
broidery. done with a linen floss that laun-
ders perfectly. Flowers, a delicate conven-
tonal design, monogram, or simply an
initial may be fittingly used
When things are settled, before the en-
gagement is announced, the chest is further
enriched by the daintiest of towels. Don
think for moment of ready-made towels.
The bride of to-day buys the finest of huck-
abuck, the daintiest quality of diapered
damask, and with her own nimble fingers
makes her own towels, hemstitching them
or fagoting them as the case may be.
Fringe is thing of the past. Fringe has
departed-possibly because it certain
TO depart anyway in the wash-and now
all towels are hemstitched. When the ma
terial warrants, a row of drawn work is
sometimes added, and the maidens initial
or monogram, worked in white, is placed
just above the hem.
During this period, the chest is kept de-
corously concealed by denim ruffies, and
the subject of chests is studiously avoided
by the girl, although you may be sure that
inumates are let into the mysteries.
With the public announcement of the en-
gagement, the chest, denuded of ruffles,
stands boldly forth 1t is again referred to
openly, and its contents are proudly dis
played TO admiring visitors
Friends begin to make donations, linen
showers" given for the bride-to-be.
and the chest receives contributions of
bath towels, wash cloths, hemstitched
sheets, pillow cases. tablecloths and nap
kins daintily hemmed by hand. There is a
place for even the humble, but necessary
dish towel, also the iron holder which, ac-
cording to old tradition has an especial
significance.
AS the wedding day draws near, the table
and bed linen, neatly Numbered and care
fully folded, work down toward the bot
tom of the chest, to make room at the top
for dozens of billowy lace-trimmed gar
ments so be-ruff1ed and be-ribboned that
the chest, at first so large and so empty, is
at last fairly running over with bridal ar
ray.
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-06-15
D. ILLUSTRATED
\ F A s II | Q n s

pure 1t is put on in band and medallion
ance TO gown 1t Is used on white cloth
with good effect and also is seen on wash
materials, especially those in large Dolly
Warden floral designs. Printed null dresses
in lowered effects are trimmed in this
manner, the ribbon being emerald green, the
lace deep ecrue. Such trimming should be
effective on an all-white gown for evening
Next to white, grass linen and batiste
gowns are the most numerous. Handsome
effects are shown in grass linens en-
broidered in white and colors. Linen ba-
tistes are exquisitely soft and sheer. They
show all manner of trimming, lace being
used freely. Bordered batistes are pretty
and make up nicely. Simple grass linen
few tucks or pleats, the bodice pleated and
having a yoke of lace or embroidered ma
terial Emerald green and crimson velvet
ribbons trim many of these Double skirts
appear among the new thin gowns, especial
~ among embroidered batistes. pretty
design edges both parts of the skirt and
covers the front of the blouse. Three
flounced skirts, the top one beginning at the
waist. very pretty in batiste, but also
are seen in null and yelling. Some thin
gowns have side-pleated skirts and a deep
band of lace around the hem or tucks at
the hem with medallions of lace above.
Another style of skirt is covered with mar
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-06-15
WarninE to Wives.

Philadelphia Times.
Never lavish your caresses. even your at
tentions on your husband when you suspect
that he is not in the mood TO appreciate
and enjoy them. The most devoted and low
ing of husbands has moments of worry. In
these moments he does not want the sweet
heart wife; he wants the discreet friend,
the ool-headed counselor, and the partner
and confidante that his wife should be The
part of a wife is many-sded Happy the
husband who possesses one whose versa
tility enables her TO play the right part at
the right time.
When your husband asks for a little dish
of his prediction which he can get at his
club whenever he likes. but which he pre-
fers to have in his own house and in your
company. do not refuse it 10 him on the
plea that you know best what is good for
him. He generally knows that himself
our husband. I am sure has no obiec-
ton TO your entertaining your lady friends
at luncheon when he is working i'm the city
Encourage him in his desire to sometimes
have little male dinner party in his own
house. ! know men who are obliged TO en-
JOY that little treat in their clubs.
Never go in for an "explana ton" on any
unpleasant subject while your husband is
i'll or in trouble. Be magnanimous enough
10 wait until he is in fighting trim; that is
only fair.
Never abuse men without acknowledging
that they have some redeeming features
Remember that women who have good hus-
bands do not abuse men, that women who
have inspired love seldom or never abuse
men.
The keynote of family happiness is toler-
alton and cheerfulness. Do not air your
grievances; put up with faults. foibes and
shortcomings. We are none of US perfect
not even yourself, perhaps, my dear lady.
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-06-15

sits with folded hands listening for the
voices that shall never again be heard, the
steps silenced for aye.
Nothing, nothing is so dreadful as to be
left alone with nothing to carry. No one
to really mind whether you live or die no
one to whom you are necessary; no one 10
whom your coming brings a smile. your
absence means a bit of heartache for
mother"
So many of us are apt to postpone our
good times until 1.-The children are grown;
until 1--WE get the house paid for until
1--WE can afford it," and we go on moiling
and toiling ano looking ahead for the
blessed sunshine, when We ought to be
cherishing every ray as 1t comes
When the children are grown they are
no longer yours alone. Jane goes off with
neighbor Smiths Jack. and there is her
own little home, and her own little flock
coming on to look after Tom goes off into
the great world to make his fortune,
and making it. he stays.
So, one by one, the links are broken. and
when the house is paid for and 1--WE can
afford it, the house may be empty of all
human interest, and we may sit alone, with
but the ghosts of the vanished past TO bear
us company.
Let us, then, wisely improve the present
while it is ours; let us seize and scatter
the sunshine as ii comes; let us be of good
cheer, though the burden ofttimes presses
sore. for, after all, its weight comes heavi-
est when there is no more TO carry.
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-06-15
CURES IN THE KITCHEN.
A Variety of Important Remedies
Found i'm Every Household.

LONDON answers
In every kitchen or storeroom there Is
quite a druggists shop of useful remedies.
So far as medical science has discovered,
the best all-round cure for dyspepsia is salt
and water. You put a small teaspoonful of
salt in large tumbler as hot as you can
swallow, ana drink Ii half an hour or
twenty minutes before each meal. This
washes out the stomach thoroughly. Many
people try the plan of drinking hot water
a cure for stomach complaint, but as
they omit the salt the operation is not
always satisfactory The plain water is
rather irritating TO a delicate stomach, but
the addition of salt prevents the irritation
and converts the draUght into a powerful
stomach stimulant.
Pepper proves equally valuable in emer-
gencies. Suppose has a pain in the
stomach or a sinking feeling. there is moth
ing better than a small quantity Of pepper
in glass of hot water. With the addition
of sugar il forms a pleasant and stimu-
lating draught good for a cold and all
sorts of pains.
A teaspoonful of pepper put into a two
ounce bottle of strong whisky or rum will
make the hair grow. After a bath. also, 1t
is an excellent thing to rub into the head
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-06-15

yelling comes in all tints and is sometimes
found In various colors strewn with white
snecks. II has a soft. cinging effect.
makes UP beautifully and is delightfully."-
cool. a strong point in its favor. A dull
metallic blue and biscuit are the favored
shades Skirts are either finished with
deep Spanish hounce. or with two or three
circular hounces, or with stitched bands of
taffeta or peau de sole OF the same shade.
Lace bands and medallions are put on
freely. Jackets and bodices usually are
made with position or basque effect, and
-A<s trimmed with tucking. pleating. shir-
ring or taffeta bands. Some model dresses
in this material have entirely plain skirts.
elaboration being shown on the coat, which
nay be on the Louis or Russian blouse or
der Embroidered pongee Is used with
good effect for trimming.
new dress trimming greatly liked and al
ready much used is a trellis design OF black
or some bright velvet ribbon. appliqued all
around with heavy cream or white gull
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-06-15
The Work Apron.
Grange Homes.

Grange Homes.
AS long as shirtwaists and house dresses
are made with blouse effect the ordinary
string apron" is little protection while at
work. often see stenographers and book
keepers wearing handsome white waists
and with a large piece OF thin wrapping
paper pulled through their belts TO cover
the blouse effect part OF their waists. Two
more pieces are fastened round their wrists
by the small rubber bands used for holding
papers and letters in packages. When these
women go home at night their waists show
no evidence of their work in more or less
dusty offices.
The best apron for homework Is OF the
simplest form of mother hubbard. II is
merely two breadths of Bingham or print
sewed to a band. unsewed for a large arm
hole and the back and front, but the sides
are left unsewed for large arm hole and
the back is torn I'm two to allow IL TO spread
over the dress. Two short shoulder straps
are added III the material is wide IL need
not be torn up al the back. IL IL is very
narrow cores must be added 10 the front
and two widths used at the back. II takes
but a trifie more time and material TO
make one of these aprons than for the or
binary full apron with belt.
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-06-15
Odds and Ends.

Never hang mirror where the suns rays
Will strike upon 1t II acts on the mercury
and clouds the glass.
Bodices cut in half-low rounding shape in
the neck with abundant ruffes of lace or
chiffon at the edges Of the elbow sleeves,
are feature OF many OF the latest gowns
for midsummer wear
When dressing a salad at the table FIRST
mix the oil and seasonings and pour over,
turning and tossing till every leaf is coated.
Next pour over the vinegar and toss again.
If you should use the vinegar FIRST the oil
would not coat the wet vegetables.
In an emergency. TO make a compress
for a wound. If nothing better is at hand.
clean tissue paper makes an excellent ap-
plication- IL Is much 10 be preferred 10 a
strip torn from clothing or soiled hand
kerchief. which may be the only other
choice.
Corset covers that form a straight line
around the top under the arms. and are
held up by ribbons tied In a bow on the
wear with thin summer gowns. They are
convenient with lOw-necked gowns. too, IS
the ribbons can be united and allowed 20
hang and so will not interfere with the
contour Of the bodice neck.
The separate waist even when the fabric
Is satin. matelasse. silk. brocade or moirc.
Is this summer very often without a lining.
just like one OF batiste or India null IL IS
then worn over a very closely fitted ana
bOned silk underwaist that Is. however. in
way fastened TO the outside garment.
BOolces so mace are for some reason Hght-
er. easier and cooler than when the same
fabrics used. but scanned together; and
many modistes claim that with separate
underbodice they can make a better NJ or
the outside material
The fullness OF the latest French dress
skirts Is carried well TO the back. beneath
underfoldsd pieats. and they are narrower
ct the top, and. II possible, fatter al the
sides; consequently. they hang better than
did the skirts cut completely on the bias.
or in circular form. which almost invari-
ably showed an ugly. ill-proportoned droop
at the sides-and when the material Was
heavy. never hung well. even at first The
smartest of the summer skirts are now
gored. with an added circular founce as a
inish. They nj the figure still In sheath
like severity and fare like q bellaowss
from the knees down.
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-06-15
The Art of Dress.

new 4 OTh lines.
Lack of money is not the real reason
why so few well-dressed women are SEEM
says a woman who is notably we'll dressed
herself; lit is lack of self-control. There is
not one woman in a hundred who can resist
the temptation of buying things which are
pretty in themselves, instead of the things
which suit her particular style and colors
which blend with other things in her ward
robe. There are a few words which are
used by artists in different lines which
could well be applied by women to dress
ing.
golden rule. That was q theory of Robert
Louis Stevenson in writing. though he did
not use exactly those words. He was con-
stantly cutting eXtraneous matter and
words from his work to give it simplicity
and harmony. An expert in house decora-
ton repeats with emphasis the cry for
elimination, and that is what is needed in
womens dress. A girl is attracted by the
pretty ribbons she sees in the shops, lays
in a stock Of them, blues, and pinks, and
lavenders, and wears them with all kinds
of frocks. Now, If she wears just that one
bit of color, with nowhere in her costume
a repetition Of it, it is blot instead of an
ornament.
Repeat. repeat. repeat" is another gold
en- rule to be used in dressing.
If there is a bit of pale blue at the neck
1t must be repeated somewhere, and if two
or three times, so much the better; in the
belt, in the hat, and a touch of it showing
in the underskirt. A woman will look dis
tinguished in any kind of a suit of one col
or-in brown, for instance, hat, gown,
gloves, parasol, and no other color, unless
she repeats 1t in several little touches
even then she will not have the distinc-
ton that she will in wearing all of one of
the deeper shades, or one shade and color
of any kind. or even a blending of shades
of one color. 1t is trite to use the illustra-
ton of the women in the shops, mattresses
in restaurants, and nurses in the hospitals
but there is no better. There is a certain
distinction given to the most commonplace
by the unifom, and 1t is a revelation to see
the same women and girls in their street
clothes of many colors. Uniformity is the
keynote of dressing WELL
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-06-15

A recent fanciful treatment of white linen
was trimming Of cherry-coIored taffeta and
embroidery in the form of cherries Spanish
hounce and sleeves had narrow band of
silk, cherries were embroidered above and
the blouse bodice had basques to the knee
edged with silk. Embroidery was the finish
around the neck, which was filled in with a
shield of finely tucked white lawn and
narrow lace insertion.
Fine white serge makes the most fash
ionable yachting suits. Stitched bands of
the material cover each seam. stitched
hip yoke is usual, and above is a short
jacket with pale-blue silk revers.
New York. June 13
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-06-15
The Brides Chest.
The Brown Book

The Brown Book.
The latest fad-as is so often the case
with the latest fads-is really the revival
of time-honored custom. In by-gone days,
when the spinning and weaving were done
by the fair hands of the damsel herself, it
behooved the prospective bride to make an
early start toward the furnishing of her
bridal chest; but, with the passing of the
spinning wheel and the handloom, and the
coming of the department store, the chest
was relegated to the past.
But now the American girl has revived
this most delightful of all ancient GUS
toms; the long-neglected chest has been
dragged from obscurity, and many maid
en- with no immediate matrimonial pros
poets is gloating in secret over the contents
of a well-filled chest. The chest itself may
be anything from plain implanted wooden
box to the carved oaken, brass bound
a colonial bride.
But few prospective brides are the fortu-
nate possessors of oak chests of genuine
antiquity. Lacking these they make ac-
ceptable substitutes-or have them made
by the carpenter-of plain white pine
boards. This unpretentious box, provided
with castors and hinged cover, and neatly
lined with cambria or paper. is then
adorned outwardly, in variety Of ways.
1t may be neatly covered with a denim.
in which case it often masquerades most
innocently as a simple divan, without
arousing suspicious as TO the romantic ma
ture of its contents. An effective covering
where no concealment is necessary. is made
of tobacco-brown leather, studded with
brass-headed nails. and finished with the
handsome brass hinges and handles OBJ
tainable at any hardware store
An artistic effect is produced by burning,
with the tools that come for that purpose,
a decorative design upon the cover, sides
and ends of the wel-made chest. When
the design is to be placed directly upon the
box, the wood should be smooth and white
and not too hard. When the box is first
covered with leather of delicate shade of
tan. and the design burned unOn the leath-