Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-06-28

Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
PARIS, June II, 1902.
This season simplicity is the motto of the
fashionable dressmaker. In every line and
fold of designs shown in the smart shops
Is the point emphasized No matter how
elegant the material of a costume may be.
its outlines are severe in the extreme. This
is particularly true of thin, washable
gowns for morning or afternoon wear.
The box plated skirt with the blouse
bodice is the accepted costume for outdoor
service in the country. The box pIaits,
wide and fiat, are stitched part way down
each side. Just above the dress hem the
stitchings end, and the plaits, neatly
pressed, are allowed TO flare. The blouse
that accompanies this skirt is generally
cOllarless It is also as loose and soft as
hand can make It. Buttons and loops are
preferred to hooks and eyes as clasps upon
tub garments. for the latter, being of
metal. leave unsightIy rust stains upon the
fabric.
Pique gowns are invariably fashioned
with a plated skirt and short Elton Jacket.
Stiff goods are shown to advantage in this
style-in fact. all tailored linen gowns look
well thus arranged. The linens which are
finished with a silky surface are utilized
in the making of very stunning tailored
costumes. One handsome model at Nine.
COTalies Is of mercerized linen in the new
shade of red known cerise. Four
stitched pin plaits run down the front of
the skirt, opening above the hem to allow
fullneSS Of the cloth to Hare out. Between
these four ridges three pieces of heavy in
sertIOn are inset, Three more pin plafts
arise from the pointed examinations of the
lace. and, like the others add 10 the fare
. of the skirt a little above the hem. The
coUsaSe blouse, likewise plated, IS mounted
over an empieCement of ecru embroidery.
An ingenious collar of linen and embroid-
cry covers the shoulders. The artistic
sleeves are cut in cavalier style. with a
great deal of eCru lace and embroidery at
the wrists and large round buttons to Sc
cure the gauntletlike cuffs. Such cos
tune is, of course, not intended for the
tub. Neither are the fluffy organizes and
dlmities covered with frills and laces meant
20 be subjected TO soap and water.
For Afternoon Wear.
Smart enough for afternoon wear is
second linen model. This gown is gray
but frightened by washable lavender gall
looms. This combination OF colors makes
the dress especially suitable for an elderly
lady OF quiet tastes. At the throat the
bodice opens in over a collar and
chemisette of white silk. From the Shout
ders pin plafts fall half way down the
front of the waist. allowing it to blouse
decidedly at the girdle. Double bands of
the lavender are brought down the center
of bodice and skirt. giving the costume the
appearance of a princess robe. Around the
hem the same lavender gailoon~ heads
succession of short vertical pin plaits,
Plaits on the sleeves are encirCled by
bands while a piece of lavender silk forms
the girdle.
Irish linens are sumptuously trimmed
with irish laCes. They are the smartest
dresses for afternoon wear. On one new
model groups of tiny horizontal plaits
laid very close together form the heading
for fun. shaped founce, the border Of