Evening star., 1902-09-13
Special Correspondence Of The Evening Star.


NEW YORK. September II. 1902.
Despite the effort to sheIve them, odd
bodices are again in the field. They take
the place of the shirt waist frocks which
lately succeeded them for house wear. GUST
ing IN turn their rivals, and even more
triumphantly.
There are several reasons for this renew
Cd interest in the fancy waist, the chief
one being that it is the embodiment of the
attainabla. Five yards of material Will
make one, and those who tremble at the
cost Of stuffs can always find inexpensive
remnants in this length; just now radiant
pieces Of Shantung pongee-deep blues,
greens and dull reds-fragmen of voile,
canvas, cheviot and Iaine, in all of which
materials the new waists appear.
Five charming designs give admirable
hints 20 the home dressmaker. who knows
the value Of fancy stitchery and odd bits
OF trimming.
one of the newest models Of all is a low
cut blouse in checkered brown and white
linen cIuve=. such materials being very
much in evidence for autumn house wear.
The linen Is of the heaviest quality, loosely
woven ANA without stifenins. The chief
trimming OF the blouse, which shows the
usual inverted mutton leg sleeve, is a bias
Of stout white linen. running around the
neck and down the front. and worked with
ID h. y narrow Dldtk WASH Drdlu outlines
this, some leaf applications made of the
same showing at the front of the blouse.
The neck is filed in with a light weight
black linen. the finely tucked vest and stock
in one piece Stock finish and cuffs of
the black and white embroidery.
Another daShing waist, which has pract-
cal suggestions Is built on the same model
with the exception of a slight tapping of
the fronts. This is of tucked cream wool
v0iIe. with a hand trimming of black taffe-
IA, crossed by piping Of the VOile IN lat
lice work
\ third useful waist is Of black liberty
satin. with horizontal groups of tucks
stitched with white. \ shawl collar of
Irish lace, applied to black mousSeline. and
turning hack from a vest of tucked white
silk and fag0tting. embeilishes the upper
the satin. cut bias, is placed.
All uf these waists blouse slightly at the
front. and show backs without scanning.
Many with back-fdstsHings. howeVer, are
seen though such styles are generally pre-
fe~rsd for airy textures. such as lace NOUS
S-iiue ana net.
y very fetching waist. buttoned al the
back. is Of azure silk muslin with embrOid-
cred bands of deep yellow batiste. \ nov
'.ty with this is a transparent yoke fash
iJ-ei Of vertical stripes of narrow black
velvet. These connect round band Of en-
br7ldery at the shoulders with the stock
Of bI'i~te and muslin, suggesting dazzling
possibilities for pretty neck.
Everywhere trimmings of batiste are seen
with color. Scattered medallions and ovals
in these tenderly tinted embrOideries adorn
many a mousSeliue waist, and on the silk
models splendid cape collars and suff pieces
aye used as well as p0stillion tails. AprOpOs
II these rear appendages, they are more
seen than ever, especially on the fancier
waists, which seemed to require some sort
II a tail. The bobbed-off look in the back
- noticeable with contrasting skirts and
bodices was never becoming. The pos
tiili1n tabs therefore supply a graceful
finish. and aside from their ornamental
possibilities they really make waist seem
more Of a garment.
l have told Of the bodices IN heavy linen
II VDIle, silk and mOusSeine; but there are
more bewi!dering fancies to come. waists
Of lace net and point esprit. Unined. and
made with a surprising simplicity, London
sends the models Of these charming little
bodices. which are the rage there. The
point desprit waists are especially popular
IN deep ecTUs, the garment tucked all over
or only partially. No other trimming is
used but the tucking, which likewise forms
the straight stocks and cuff bands
! chilly freak of fashion you Will say for
this season but then you know English
women don't suffer from the cold as we do
Far into the autumn, we are told, trans
parent EokeS and sleeves will be Worn in
Lordun; and airy bUdices under jackets