Durango semi-weekly herald., 1902-04-10

BILE to pursue him. The street was
crowded with pedestrians and vehicles
and he could easily elude pursuit.
Such incidents are constantly occur
ring and all the guide books warn
strangers to look out for themselves.
They are also careful to mention
that it is unsafe for people to go into
the slums of Naples unless accom-
panied by policeman or guide,
which is a rather broad proposition.
because two-thirds of the city are
smms.
THE narrow lanes in the heart of
the town" Baedeker says, are alive
with the characteristic scenes of Nea-
politan life. and though visit to
them with an experienced guide is
interesting, the traveller is recommen-
ed not to penetrate them alone or on
foot" Every author writing upon
Naples laments the existence of such
conditions and warns tenderfeet to be
careful. 1T is not prudent to wan
der when the night is falling" says
the author of Naples, Past and Pres.
ent." Naples is not safe city, and
travellers would do wisely to realize
that fact. Even in broad daylight
caution and good sense are needed
more than in other cities. Ladies will
show it by removing from their dress
es all ornaments of the slightest value
and men by refusing absolutely all in
ducements to enter houses, whether Of
fered by small boys or by any other
person not known and youched for
After dark, if man must walk alone
he should walk carefully on the light
side of the street These are not un-
necessary cautions. Neapolitans
do not neglect them, though strangers
do Complaint is useless, but the
remedy is simple. Garry nothing
which is of obvious value. Go home
while it is still light
AS | have said, these conditions
make Naples less agreeable to the
stranger than it might otherwise. and
there are many other annoyances.
Beggars thrust repulsive sores and
MANNED limbs into your face and fol
low you with a persistency that is ex-
asperating. They never appeal to ma
tives in that way, because they
know it is useless. but they can spot
foreigner instantly and usually get
something. The natives declare that
the nuisance is created by the for
eigners themselves, that the beggars
would soon disappear if nothing was
given to them, but Americans are not
so hardened to the sight of suffering
and deformities as the Italians. and
they give aims in order 10 get rid of
annoyance. The street peddlers are
often more aggravating than the beg
gars. They follow foreigners from
place to place. thrusting their wares
before them and begging them to buy
If one does not purchase he is usu-
ally insulted, and often cursed, of
which he is unware, however, unless
he knows the language. This also
is a nuisance from which the natives
are exempt.
The unspeakable filth of the city,
the bad smells, the disagreeable habit
the Neapolitans have OF doing GER
tain things in public which are not
considered proper elsewhere, the new
er-ending noise, the shrill screams
of the men who peddle food and fruit,
and the habitual abuse of animals
all contribute to make a sensitive per
son unhappy. | would hate to be a
horse in Naples, for the life of that
noble animal is prolonged experience
of cruelty. Carts are generally over
loaded, and the drivers are invariably
brutal and merciless.
But worse than all these things are
the petty swindles at the hotels. A
traveller expects that the manager or
porter of the hotel will protect him
from the imposition of others but such
faith is i'll founded in Italy. To es-
cape being swindled 1t Is necessary
to make a bargain concerning every
thing beforehand and ask the price
of every article before it is ordered.
You can reduce your hotel bills about
half in that way. Few of the hotels
have fixed rates for anything. Ere
quently no prices are attached to the
| list of food on the menus, but charges
according to their judgment as to
what the customer will be willing to
pay. If he is in the habit of sub
mitting to extortion they increase the
charges. If he is a Kicker" they
reduce them.
But even with a distinct and posi-
tive understanding concering charges
in advance a travelor must have his
bills rendered frequently and scar
them carefully to see that he is moi
charged with articles that he has moi
ordered. They have a way of stick
ing in items for laundry or carriages
or kilograms, or something like that
and if their attention is called to Il
they admit that it is mistake, ant
explain that it should have beer
charged to some other room. II NJ
objection is .made it is so much tt
their advantage. 1t is almost i'm
possible to get clean straight bill il
Naples.
The other day found a charge o
80 cents for candles in my bill.
asked the manager If he had electro
lights in his house. He replied witt
some astonishment that my room wa
lighted in that way. whereupon ] ask
ed him why he charged me with car
dies.
Suppose | show this bill to m
American friends" remarked, The
will think that you have an old-fasf