New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1902-04-13
WATERCRESS ON HATS.
THIS GARNFTURE NOW POPULAR IN
PARIS THE SPRING tai
LORED" GOWN.

Paris. April o
The opening day OF the Concours Hipplqne was
so cold that the majority Of the women PIessli.
wore Tong wraps, and IN many instances iui
5ackets so as a sartorial spectacle the day was d
great disappointment. Tailored costumes nave al
ways been affected by the grandes DANES lla' az
tend the Paris horse show, and one always eApec'S
10 see there the latest ideas in this style Of oIS
Very elaborate dresses. except Of the talloreo va
riety, are rarely worn but a TAILORED" stE!e
launched at the Concours Hippique has certain
authority. Fortunately. the weather lmproNeu
later in the week and there was an opportunity ~
see what the tailors had provided for the SPRING.
The general idea seemed TO be that tailored gowns
had never been so extravagant or so varied IN lie
panerat stvle The, almost total disappearance "
cloth in favor OF silk mohairs and various 'nli'
fancy stuffs is largely responsible for TINS appeal
ance Then TOO. tailored gowns are much iio'e
trimmed than was the custom a few seasons aso'
and have the fu ther addition Of large elaborate
,,,os The novelties in fabrics seemed to be the
shot wool stuffs shot mohairs some OF me 'dlio'S
form them: shot silks used for entire SUITS ana le
new MORE taffetas. The jackets lhciuoeu oolel
Louis XIV coats. and loose half long garments
saw few examples of the new shoulder caPes allg
one long garment with big shawl sleeves 'i''l nav
great deal of style
JACKETS. LONG AND SHORT.
Most o4 she Jackets whether long or short could
be worn with the sides open, and thrown back, the
lining forming the facing to the revers OF course
the lining is handsome and often trimmed sew
eral Jackets lined with stripped silk had that part
of the lining forming the -evers trimmed with IN
crrstations Of either black ecru lace or IN one
case tiny black buttons and lines Of black SILK
braid Dressmakers have been laying great stress
upon shot effects in tafetas and mohairs since the
first exposition OF spring models. bit new ldea
must be really in Paris before one can safely
put any reliance il. so many new and often
prettv ideas spring to life and killed in a
dressrnaking establishment without even short
appearance on the boulevard. The Paris dress
makers after all. only originate a fashion;
they cannot make it popular.
A novelty shown at the Concours Hlpplque was
a half long coat which when open showed
one reper faced with white anc the other with pink
and both revers covered with applications Of black
lace. The effect pretty, and not so bizarre as
il sounds. The suit OF black taffeta. trimmed
with straps black velvet and lines of black lace
incrustations The hat was Of a lacelike straw,
embroidered with pink wool. very chic, and
trimmed with a big black velvet bow and pearl
ornaments.
Another black taffeta suit. extremely pretty. was
trimmed with graduated rows of velvet ribbon,
these bordering the four or five pieces that made
the skirt. The same ribbon trimmed the skirts
Of the jacket and the upper part as high as the
bust, and the top pant of the sleeves over 'he
shoulders was a collar of ecru lace and Datlste'
lightly embroidered gold, and The same trimming
was on the lower part Of the sleeves. There were
really two sleeves, a short, flaring sleeve. that
ended above the elbow, long, close sleeve.
wrinkled a little at the elbow.
FOLIAGE ON MILLINERY.
The most noticeable thing in millinery was the
amount OF foliage used and the most popular thing
In foliage seemed 10 be plain watercress- A lovely
hat had a Light blue foundation almost hidden by
watercress on side was large bow OF shot
green and blue ribbon. Hats very light and ethe-
real even those worn with furs and cloth SUITS
A pretty hat was large toQue of white moussellne
de sole. the folds held by wreath Of white roses
plsced in front q little 10 side. These small
Wreaths are rnodish on evening gowns as well as
millinery A dainty little Marquis nat OF PINK
straw had the brirn faced with tiny ruchings of
pink mousselne de sole, and there were strings OF
small pink roses passing down over the lndenta !
tions in the brlIn, as responsive Tor 1nein alo
meeting under the brim il the back and falling
Marquis shape threatens TO become so popular lnal
rev ideas in trimming ii seem necessary
There were few skirts made with shaped hounces.
The skirts certainly ared considerably at the bot
tom. but this effect was generally accomplished
lot of trimming in the way of bands put in
various ways. and there were skirts made in sew
For the spring races the dressmal1ers are MAX
ing long dust cloaks Of shot taTeta lined with
Towered rnusins the fancy lining giving de
isghtfully cool dainty appearance The loose, coat
shane rs The me i 1eW aos are several fancy
with white designs reminiscent OF the fancy wooIen
Etufs that have been worn during the winter for
INSTANCE black yelling has White pattern c IKE
and skirt with revers and cuffs embroidered with
white cotton Very pretty are the Veilings with
through them An excellent trimming for these
fancy veilings is lines OF glace ribbon Joined to
sether. perhaps to pieces OF the stuff. with
LACE DRESS SMART
green yelling with fine white dots in 1t has
the skirt trimmed with graduated rows Of green
ribbon velvet The blouse is Of ecru fet with lace
figures It, and this is a little boero trimmed
with velvet lines The jacket is without revers
collar and with lace 3ndersleeyes, close to the
arms and long the hands like mittens. The
yelling sleeve flares and ends just the elbows.
Lace dresses viii be much worn during the sum-
mer. but they are rarely made up without the
addition OF some other material a model always