Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-10-15

lava mountains and in their rugged soil to
draw upon. they are, a whole manly,
liberty-loving, Independent, God-fearing
race.
Many of the farm houses are built of sods
and rocks. with a smoky clubhouse for a
kitchen where the smoke escapes through
a hole in the roof and through numerous
crevices; the whole family often eat, sleep
and have their being in single sod-thatch-
ed room, with fire, winter and summer,
for coal and peat and unattainable in many
parts of the country, and the few precious
twigs from the scrub birches that grow only
a few inches from the ground, must be hus
banded for cooking the fish and mutton.
Yet in spite Of this poverty and of much
squalor as it would be considered in some
parts of the world, the people do not seem
degraded by it, but are alert responsive and
intelligent in an unusual degree. English
is spoken well Icelandic in many re-
mote farmhouses: very fair education can
be obtained in Reykjavik nd the spirit of
the Vikings who cultivated literat ure
well as the spear and the battle ak, seems
to be inherited by their modern descend
ants.
In religion the people are Lutherans. al
most without exception. There are one
two large free Lutheran churches in the
island whose ministers do not depend upon
state aid. and a few representatives of the
Salvation Army in Reykjavik.
AS my chief object in visiting Iceland was
at the desire of some friends, to introduce
the modern methods of the Christian En-
deavor Society which many have felt were
particularly needed in the island. | am glad
to say that l found a ready hearing a large
audience in the capital, and many warm
friends; some of them in the althing, or
parliament, itself, which was just assem-
bling for a special session.
A few paragraphs before this series of
articles Is brought to a close about the
means of getting to Iceland, the expense of
the journey. etc. seem to be in order
The Expenses Of the Journey.
The only regular line Of steamers runs
from Copenhagen. touching at Leith, Scot
land, and one can take the boat at either
port. The steamers are small (about
thousand tons each), but fairly comforta-
BILE.
The voyage. however. is long and tedious,
between six and seven days from Leith and
four days longer from Copenhagen, includ-
ing the stop at Leith. Though the distance
from Leith is only LEGO miles. the journey
is long in time as across the Atlantic.
This is accounted for in part by the slow
ness Of the steamers. which make only about
ten miles an hour. and in part by three
long stops at the Farce Islands, which oc-
cupy nearly two days.
However, these stops afford considerable
relief from the monotony of the voyage,
and the picturesque character of the ISL
ands and the Inhabitants make the visit to
the Faroes almost memorable as Ice
land itself. The cost of a round ticket to
and only a little more from Copenhagen.
Meals are charged for separately and cost
about $115 day The fare is very good
on the whole, though the cold meats
picked fish, cheese and other delicatessen
which the Scandinavian appetite so much
enjoys become rather monOtonouS to the
American before the return voyage is over
especially fresh vegetables and fresh
fruits are conspicuous for their absence.
Travelling in Iceland is somewhat expen-
sive Not that each individual article is
unduly dear but the exigencies Of travel on
pony back do not admit Of much economy
For a journey of any length each tourist
must have seven ponies, two for himself
two for his guide and three for his baggage
and tent These cost kroner, about 50
cents a day each. His provisions. guides
hire forage for ponies and extras will bring
his expenses up to about 81 day.
Short Journeys. however, that do not re-
quire so many ponies can be made consid-
erably cheaper.
Two hundred and fifty dollars will prob
ably cover the expense Of the steamer ticket
and a FIVE weeks trip In Iceland IL one is
reasonably economical and 1t might be
done for 500 from Scotland.
/, for one. do not know any part of the
world where can be obtained. at the same
cost more grand noble and startling seem
cry; more novel and interesting expert
ences; more complete rest and recreation;
more wholesome and invigoratng sport, and
more lasting and delightful memories than
in three weeks in the land Of ice and fire
Il