Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1902-11-06
NEW YORK FASHION LETTER.
Winter Modes Include Some Striking
Notwithstanding White Cloth.

there is nothing new under the sun must
be relcgatcd to the list of obsolete
phrascs-at least as far as the fashions
of the coming winter are concerned, for
everything in the gorgeous array of the
seasons advance fashions now on exhibit
in Gotham's ultra smart shops liz new.
Indeed there is novelty for everyone, and
with the novelty are combined exquisite
taste and beauty.
For two or three seasons there have been
efforts eXerted to put pastel tints and the
fade" shades in the fore front OF pop
ularity, but these efforts have met with
comparatively little success until This
year. Now it is decided that not only will
the pale tints be a la mode, but white-a
new shade known as chalk-white,- is to
be the quintcssencc of smartrcss.
OF course this style has it's strong points
and its weak ones. Arguments advanced
against it's adaptability to unfdVorable
atmospheric conditions are convincingly
offset by Dame Fashions disciples with
the response that It is "delightfully clean
able" and SHOWS absolutely no trace of
having come under the influence of the
cleaners art"
One of the favorite wraps Of mid-winter
is tho graceful, loose palctot of chalk
Nhitc cloth with a lustrous finish. This
design is comfortable and voluminous and
lends itself admirably to the rich trent
ment and luxurious materials which dis
tineuish the wraps of this season.
For smartncss and originality there is
certainly nothing to excel these white
cloaks. They show the latest designs in
trimming including fancy stitchings, en-
hroideries. appliques. and the like, and
tho immaculate background of the mater
ials affords an excellent opportunity of
showing off tho rich materials employed
IN the process of ornamentation.
Women who do not take well to the idea
~ white gowns could not do better than
I..t It'll rTA H. 80 A,,,A
Colors. For instance take one of the mid
winter frocks in white wool crepe. The
skirt Is tucked trausvcrsely, from belt to
herr ard the groups of tucks are alter
mated with bands of Russian lace through
which CLEANS the silken lining. At the
bottom there are three simple round-and-
round tue ks and these are niped with the
narrowest of black satin bands. presum-
ably for the sake of contrast. for they
could hardly improve the beauty of the
gown.
The blouse is tucked and outlines a
loose Eton effect. 1t is appliQued with
cream colored Russian lac" and fiuishc''
with a yoke Of dotted chiffon. There is
the faintest suspicion of a black satin
eirdle whore the Jacket ends. The sleeves
r. light to the elbow. branching out vol
uminolsly from this point and narrow
ing again at the wrist whore they are
gathered into graduated bands of the lace.
~ wv 'FlNi VI III - 80 &C. 'N
applique of the russian lace which almost
covers the puffed portion. or the top part
nj least, being widest at the elbow and
Growing narrow near the ,wrist-band to
tit in with the proportions OF the cuff.
Such a gown could not he otherwise
that hcwitching. no matter what the color
selected rs long as the material was soft
and Tliahle. In blue, Italian red. DUH
Green or bioGe. trimmed with the same
lace, or an imitation of Russian the eff
feet would 80 striking and pretty.
Winter for the New York woman Of
fashion Is simply Il synonym for a con
tinual round of gaHicties. for there are
morning musicalcS. afternoon calls.
drives, matinces and receptions, evening
dinners, dances, theatres and balls, and
it requires more than mere ambition and
an elongated purse to keep up with the
''rush.'' rs they say in the much-crlti-
ciZed smart Set"
LIGHT colors in conjunction with fur are
used for many of the ~three-quarter coats
worn at some of these fashionable af-
fairs. Rut even here there is something
white. for the smartcst Of these coats are
supplemented with raised applications in
white cloth. the "fruit' designs. such as
punches of Crane. cherries. etc. being at
the moment IA very special and very fash
ionablc fancy.
There was 4 time when these rich en-
broidcrics and heavy effects were regard
| CT as ClcttncleS 10 ne WORT only tN mar
ricd women. but this year every one =
youthful. as provided FOR by Madame La
Mode and there is very little indeed shat
Is too HANDSOME for the dcbutante of
to-day.
Already novelties are arriving for the
horse show. which will s'or iuh" place.
A specially striking gown is made of
creme India silk of heavy quality clabor-
atclv embroidered in shaded yellow top
mos made over a tiamt-cOlor'd chiffon
skirt. The waist is embroidered at the
%pke and top of the sleeves and has a
canary colored satin belt. over this gown
which is intended for an evening affair,
will he worn a coat of white silk. over
II is fitted 4 loose. but complete coat Of
lace. The silk coat is edged with erniuo
and the long lace Stoles which hang down
either side Of the front are caught in at
intervals by brooches Of paste set in old
GIigrce. Nothing moro cxtraVaEantly
rich or more beautiful could be imagined.
Nufs and hoas come in for \ large share
Of attention this winter. Fur effects will
not he popular for indoor Wear, unless
rhine effects are selected. The indoor
muf may seem a paradox, nut II Is not.
It is really one of the requisites of n
fashionable evening OUTFIT I'm fact 50
f~pshiorahlc have they become that the
guest of a hos party who dares go without
| her muf. must have some other striking
novelty I ocompcusatc for its omission.
Large flower muffS arcneW and exceeding
" dainty. There is no danger Of their
ever becoming Common. because of their
cost. hence their great favor amonS
FASHIONS elite. Crushed and Uitherrd
roses Of all colors are employed with vel
vet foliage representing leaves in all
STAGES of development and decay For
evening nothing is dainticr or more desir-
able than the hluSh-uink rose, and en-
ncd1od in masses of chiffon or lace or
marahout features. it is a possession to
be priced by amy woman.
While almost anyone with natural taste
and n talent for manipulating" things
to make ends meet can reproduce fash
ions fIn.ieS at moderate cost. the woman
who would have things as they appear in
the shops must needs have Il fortune to
satisfy her wishes. The inventors of
modes are wise in their own generation,
but wickedly disconcerting to others. in
asmuch as the constant struggle to look
smart in garments If even Quite compare
lively youthful age is as constantly
married by the insidious Introduction of
up-to-date details which no process OF
d|isintegration or oVerhaulinG in older pos
rcssions can conceal from the initiated
There are all sorts of belts. collars, jab-
OTIS and cascades of chiffon or lace &c
smarter a bodice when the vulnerable
spots begins to show signs of wear, but
it is scaccly possible to convert a last
seasons frock into one of this year.
modes.
Among the novelties in applique effects
rings are popular. These are nothing more
or less than the tiny brass circles-or any
size preferred, Tor that matter-used 81