Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-12-20
CRAZE FOR NOVELTY
Has Extended to Every Item
of Women's Dress.
ECCENTRIC STYLES
CAREFULLY PLANNED COSTUMES
TO ATTRACT.
Line Between the Drawing Room
and the Stage Entirely
Obliterated.
Written for The Evening Star.

Written for The Evening Star.
|, Fashion plates and the skill of the ordi-
nary dressmaker no longer satisfy the de-
mand for extraordinary results in gowns.
History, art. the museums and the markets
of the world are taxed and exhausted for
ideas and materials to array the modern
woman.
One rich society woman from the west
goes abroad annually and returns with
trunks filled with brocades, tapestries, en-
broidery and other stuffs which she turns
over to a New York dressmaker to work
into her up-to-date garments. Purchasing
all this is the first large item of expense.
and the dressmaker who is able to create
costumes for practical purposes out of the
antiques and souvenirs of centuries charges
| large fees for his services.
For women who cannot afford this lux
ury, the stage is probably the most popular
pattern shop for smart clothes; yet Ii is
difficult to tell whether society copies the
stage or the stage pictures society. Social
conditions affecting the two are mixed
that lines once existing are almost erased.
So many society women have gone on the
stage, so many actresses have married So
cfety men, that there must be more or less
similarity of ideas, and the step across the
footlghts is not nearly wide as it for
| merly was.
Some of the most popular actresses have
won so wide reputation for their gowns
| that their managers feel certain Of the
| patronage of a certain class of society wo-
| men and of modistes who wish to copy the
| imported frocks and the styles of wearing
| them. A classical actress stands no chance
| with an audience of this description. Gre elk
| draperies and old-style costumes will not
| serve as models for modern drawing rooms
| A New York first night is an occasion
quite different from any other event in this
o. a c Iph
| by the clothes as by the play and actors,
| and so-called play Is certain to present
| the fashions for the season.
Useful Accessories.
Some Of the gowns that a well-known
actress brought over from Paris as Access
| SORES to her voice worth mentioning
| 1t is such dressing this that makes a
| new play a great success for those who
| care for good gowning.
| One costume of gun-metal silk velvet has
a sheen and luster that is remarkable 1t
| is made in long plain lines, clinging softly
| about the figure. The coat is trimmed with
| silver fox fur, which is also used about the
long skirt. With it is worn toque of the
| velvet.
Another frock is of lace and crepe. The
skirt is of crepe in dead white, with two
| rows of wide tucks around the very bottom
| of the circular f1ounce and two rows above
at intervals Of about three inches. The
mlQUle row Is done In curved lines that
cross each other. forming medalionS A
coat of heavy yellow-white batiste lace is
made in three-quarter length, opening at
the sides. with almost tight habit back.
Lace forms the upper part OF the sleeves,
and a deep puff of the crepe falls below the
| elbow to the hand. Deep silk fringe in the
sort known as "Grab-tai,'' is used to trim
all one side of the coat. and forms a strk-
ing finish to the sleeves. An original look
is given to the lace by cutting out the CEN
tiers of the medallions in the pattern and in
serting bits of ecru scrim that are heavily
embroidered in gooseberries.
Liked the Oddly.
Quite recently young woman acting In
parody on society wore a gown of lilac
chiffon over bright blue satin, with bands
Of gold grapes and leaves about the skirt,
and purple grapes in her hair. Within a
fortnight young married member of the
Newport set wore a duplicate of the whole
scheme at large dinner party, and Mrs.
Ladenburg. who seldom gets away from
a very severe style of dress, has worn
grapes Of silver or gilt or purple silk in her
hair on several occasions since.
All the Hampstead fox-hunting set ordi-
narily dress in such strictly tailor-made
fashion that anything they wear that is the
least elaborate is far more striking than
the gowning of women who are always
more or less fussy in their style The
change from riding habits golf togs and
homespun generally to the chiffons and
silks and soft satins of a dinner or ball
gown is startling, and clever woman
knows how to score in both and to make
effective use of the contrast.
Mrs. Kernochan, one of the three best
cross-country riders Of the Meadow Brook
Hunt Club almost lives in a homespun
skirt and simple linen shirt, a stiff hat and
heavy boots, and she never fails to make
an effective entrance in an afternoon or
evening gown. The feminine garb seems all
the more dainty after the mannish coats
and heavy materials. and all are charmed
by an effect which they would be unable
perhaps, 10 analyze.
Unusual Trimmings.
There seems to be no end to eccentric
recourses in trimming gowns. A white lib
erty satin dinner gown worn recently as
party gown in the studio of a smart diet
tante. was trimmed with entre-deux of
black Chantilly lace in a design of butter
1ies and large single butterflies were used
on the bodice and at intervals on the skirt
Wraps grow more and more elaborate
and many are loaded W expensive laces
and other trimming. A particularly charm
ing one is made of heavy white brocade and
is trimmed in an indescribable manner with
black lace, wide black velvet ribbon and
pillows of chiffon in white and black
Black and white and occasionally pale blue
are the only departures from plain white
or black evening wraps, and there are a
hundred In white to one of either of the
others. Cloth is the material preferred
Satin and fancy silk brocades are used only
In the most elaborate party wraps, and in
these only when one has many and wishes
to provide for all possible occasions.
Mrs. Stuyvessant Fish. who is particularly
Respondent this season, is wearing some
superb wraps. One Of Irish point lace is
lined throughout with ermine and reaches
to the bottom of the gown. Another is full
and circular in black satin, reaching to
the knees. 1t is lined with pale blue satin
and has deep pointed cape collar of Irish
lace. Long strings of pale blue chiffon
finish the front of lie wrap, hanging from
the throat like wide ties.
Just where the fad for pearls will end is
hard to predict, for they are being worn
with oriental lavishness not only by women,
but by men as we'll, At a famous restau-
rant within the week fashionable society
man was seen wearing not only the conven-
tional studs of pearls, but cuff links of
splendid pearl solitaires and with ques-
tionable taste, a watch guard ornament
consisting Of a heart-shaped pearl of enor-
nous size and luster.
Pleasantries of War.
From the London Express