Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-09-06

order showed punches of grapes worked at
the upper line of the lace shoulder frill.
The yoke and front of the dress, which was
OF ivory white cashmere, were in all-over
lace bordered by bias of white taffeta,
needle worked The same banding zig
Jagged over the narrow front, four scant
frills finishing the skirt at sides and back
A very dainty dress of pastel gray wolfe
showed shoulder fril of the same, drop
ping from a gray lace collar. The sleeves
and bodice of this was all in bias folds, held
In shape by mere pressing. The back and
sides of the skirt Were killed, the apron
gore being left plain and outlined with
bands of the lace.
A charmingly graceful detail was sash
of black velvet. This was cut bias and
tied in round bow at the front with long
ends.
The New Colors.
Among the new autumn and winter colors
many wonderful shades of blue are seen.
There are also rich browns, dull reds mag
niticenty effective, and the blue and green
combinations so much worn this summer
Contrary to expectation, it is declared that
this combination shall go triumphantly
through the autumn and winter, though it
VIII be seen mainly in gown textures. A
beautiful Scotch wool in invisible plaids
something very indstincD shows a line of
black with the blue and green.
Bra1dS Will be used again, put on in plain
rows, the widths graduating, and in many
novel ways.
A street gown of blue French cloth re-
Gently worn by one of New York's smart
set showed the braid fever In form as
wild as effective. Huge targets had been
round and round. These bordered the skirt
In a single row. the targets placed at in
tervals of six inches The tailed bodice
showed only two. but they were vast as
those of the skirt. Placed over each bust
these had something of the look of breast
shields worn by the Amazons of ancient
history. Nevertheless, funny as. 1t was the
| striking arrangement called for the admi-
ration of every eye. The gown was plainly
executed, only for its present owner Be
yond doubt, it was the sole blossom Of it's
kind In existence
The back of the Jacket waist was re-
lieVed from plainness by a round collar
trimmed with the braid in straight rows
Inc same bordered the basques and deep
ours OF the sleeves. These were tucked in
a tight cap at the top, which greatly in
creased the length of the shoulders At
the bottom of the sleeves there were, of
course, the usual puffs.
Trying Hard to Return.
1t is plain that overskrts are. once more
striving for recognition many Of the i'm
ported gowns showing tentative efforts In
this direction. AS yet the iupe drapertes
are beautifying, the double skirts seen be-
ing mainly cut with flowing Greek lines
But there are hasques suspiciously remtnis-
cent of the peplums of we olden DAYS the
upward sIashlngS suggesting the former
| looping.
Provided we don't return to "pinbacks''
ana bustles, however, we may endure the
Overskirt.
One of the new skirts has the back in
three Killed fiounces. headed by a wide
band of trimming The narrow apron
gofe-and apron cores are narrower than
ever,is made entirely of the trimming, en-
broldery tucking or braiding
But the most graceful skirt is still the
one severely simple in cut. The lines are
long and flowing a Judicious shaping of
the bottom producing the reduisite foot
| fare. Sometimes the flare is made by the
deep founce seen this long while but the
newer method achieves it with the skirt
cut alone. A concession to novelty-for
fair woman must have some change-is to
outline hip yoke with several rows Of
sttching which extend down the almost
straight apron gore. With this decoration
the stitching, which If It Is in the color of
the gown, and well done, is very handsome.
Contrasting stitchtngs not now so pop
ular
Bodice models show MANY variations of
the blouse waist. which for dressy cos
tunes Will still be prime faNorite. Street
gowns especially those for ordinary wear,
continue TO be made with jaunty Eton
jackets: these neat little coats haya been
found too generally becoming to be dis
carded. A pretty short coat model points
deeply at the front and hangs straight at
| the back. There 1t is very short for the
| tendency of all the tailess coats now is to
show some portion, If not all of the belt
Many of the loose coats are In kits the
necks finished with low collars and the
| fronts with stole pieces widening at the
| bottom. These are sewed to the coat, and
| generally show the trimming used else
where.
Flowing sleeves are permitted with both
| long and short coats, but in the last in
stance they are made rather small Even
| the long coats keep the flow Of open sleeves
within reasonable bounds. AS to the neck
| finish, all wraps of any modish pretension
are there low and fatty treated. Many of
| the necks are even cut down in modest
V, limp collars of a dozen sorts falling over
| the shoulders. At the bust soft wide era
| watts tied. MARY DEAN