New-York tribune., 1902-03-16
CHAMPAGNE is THE COLOR.
ITS POPULARITY JUST NOW WITH PARI.
SIANS-THE REIGN OF TAFFETA.
Paris. March s.


Paris. March s
We hear from the Riviera that long. unlined
coats of shot tafeta much worn. In this case
The Riviera is slightly ahead OF Paris IN its adop-
tion Of shot effects for a Vet examples of shot
silk have been outside Of the dressmakers and
tailors That there is be a lot of il hardly
be doubted. The dressnakars all unite showing
1t among their spring novelties and in advising it.
BY the time this letter reaches New-York Parisians
will undoubtedly be wearing gowns strapped with
shot tafeta. lined with it and be looking for
ward TO few warm days TO bring out whole suits
or the pretty stuff.
There is little use in saying that the silk wears
badly. for there hardly any one who did not
find out that fact several years ago However, at
the moment the silk seems come in a frmer
heavier weave than that Of the ordinary tafeta
glace Coats and jackets OF these silks trimmed
generally with silk embroidery in many colors or
with passementerie buttons and ornaments.
A handsome long, fun evening coat OF un,ined
taffeta has a deep yoke made front and back OF
lines OF silk passementere trimming every line end
ing in tasselled drop. The huge sleeves are gath
cred into a shaped cuff trimmed Ike the yoke \
warmer evening cloak of champagne colored cloth
is lined and strapped with a shot silk and is
trimmed with a large stole collar in Alencon lace
and squares OF yellow, embroidered batiste.
No color seems TO be fashionable as cham
paEne color. 1t is conspicuou in all the cloths,
voiles and thin wool stuffs spring comes
In summer linens, batistes and piques. There are
5aceS IN prOfuslOn 10 match this peculiar tone and
passementeries and embroidered trimmings.
At a fashionable dressmaker's are two lovely
evening gowns designed not for models but to be
worn by private customers. one is Of black point
d'esprit. built over three foundatons-white SILK.
rose nousseline dc sole and green moussene de
sole. The point d'esprit is trimmed only by huge
Set butterflies four about :he bottom of the skirt
connected by ropes OF jets, another at the bust
and another at the waist in the back The jets
large and brilliant but wonderfully light. The
other gown is of clair de lune gauze with a deep
hounce painted with morning glories and edged
with fringe made Of petals OF the flower. The
sage is trimmed in the way. There IS
lace or additional trimming 10 detract from the
beauty of the painted design. The skirt is lined
with several layers Of mousselne de sole.
The spring gowns show a lot Of the wool embroid-
cry that became famous during the winter A
beautiful gown OF champagne colored cloth has the
skirt and bolero embroidered in a raised flower pat
done IN wool in The same color. This wool
embroidery looks rich as velvet and has
character. On the corsage is a stole collar made
o. white silk. embroidered with wool and elaborated
into pattern like Mexico drawn work.
FULL SLEEVES SEEN
on a costume Of iridescent yelling in rose and
gray is pattern in gray wool and silver beads
falling down the apron and the bolero which
closes In front. All the seams closed with fag-
Sotting done in wool, and the big sleeves have
PANELS embroidery inserted in the same way.
The Jacket is trimmed with clusters Of small steel
buttons with bits Of coral stuck in them.
At another establishment they are laying much
stress full sleeves, close. OF course. the TOP,
coming In huge balloons below the elbows
On the elaborate Louis XVI coats made with far
ing turn up cuffs at the elbows there is a finish
o. lot Of lace drapery, some Of it pulled through
slashing in the outside OF the arm. Everything
there with the exception Of street gowns has
sleeves Of exaggerated size below the elbow. is
of course, A graceful pretty fashion, and all the
dTessmakers are following it to a certain extent.
Skirts show considerable variety but the skirt
close about the hips and full at the hem IS the
favorite There is an example a pleated skirt in
spotted foulard which loohs pretty with the large
spots divided by the plea,s and the skirt cut in
dice in this case is peated with a broad collar
over the shoulders, Of Cluay lace and English en-
blodeTH. and there huge unGersleeVes.
There Is such enthusiasm about taTeta, Black
hand over white or coIored foundation Of mousse
line de sole Now that taffeta is coming IN fou-
lard designs, it viii have an additional chance OF
success The designs and colors in fouard silks
has not appealed TO lot Of people. 1t lacks what
might be OPPRESSED as a 'dreSsy' look quality
LITTLE TAFFETA JACKETS.
The little tafreta jackets that are 20 be so fash
iOslabe this spring be divided into two classes.
Those much pleated and wita iaunty hip pieces
and the Louis XVI coats. The latter
are cut longer and with fiat nip pieces containing
trimmed pockets. although they may have a pleated
back In adapting mans coat a woman's
figure il is possible 10 follow accurately his
toIic modes However. Il might be remembered
that no jacket Of this style looks well with mill
tary Aiglon collar.
one o. the actresses in the Marquis De Priola
~ INC tonedie FrancaiSe wears lovely example
OF a POmpadour afternoon gown The material is
a snuE colored velvet. and bands OF zibe-
Hne at the wrists and about the bottom the
skirt The skirt ls fun the hips and falls ir
deep folds in the back The bodice j. cut i'm a noint
with a fat, draped front showing no line OF clos
ing. There Is a deep. batiste collar making the
shoulders look Ions, and nat, and light blue
chokeT with TWO gold rings In front through which
pass TWO long. slender baros OF black Chantiv.
Another gown IN the picCe is u visiting frocx 90
black panne. embroidered with Jet and steel and
made IN Empire fashion. With This is worn a I)i-
Tectoire scarf OF gray fur. lined with ernine ana
trimmed with black tails Nine. Bartet wears what
IS popularity described a dream of a froclt ,
made all Of pieces OF white panne and lace in
cTustati0ns. with raised embroidery I'm leaves an;
grapes running all IL. The skirt has a hand
chinchilla the bottom and there are fur Chou,
cuffs deep lace undersleeVeS About sbo,,,'
ders stole Of chinchilla resting on lace fourda
Although these gowns are all trimmed with fpr