Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-04-26
AMONG THE ARABS
An American W0man's Ex-
perience at Old Nippur.
CHANCE DISCOVERIES
EXCAVATIONS AT ANCIENT CEN
TER OF SCIENCE AND ART.
Meeting With the Great Sheikh of the
District-Decipheri
Tablets.
DISCOVERIES


That a woman should take her life in her
hands and go among the barbarous Arabs
of Assyria to take part in the work Of ex-
cavating ancient ruins is unique. This has
been done by an American woman, Mrs.
John H. Haynes, who accompanied her
husband in the latest expedition sent out
by the University of Pennsylvania to con-
tinue the excavations begun by him in con-
junction with DR.. Hilprecht at Nippur some
years ago.
1t was during the last campaign in which
DR.. Haynes was accompanied and assisted
by his wife that the now famous library Of
twenty-three thousand clay tablets was dis
covered. When deciphered these cannot
fail to shed flood of light upon the life led
by the men and women in one Of Assyrias
greatest cities four thousand years before
Christ.
The journey from New York to Bagdad
was no different from hundreds of similar
journeys taken by tourists-but at that
point Mrs. Haynes adventures began. Some
of her adventures she described to the
writer in New York the other day. 1--WE
stopped in front of a fruit stand in the
Bagdad bazaar said Mrs. Haynes, ITO look
at the oranges. Soon a great crowd gath
cred, completely blocking the street When
we tried to move on the crowd followed
in safety remain. Koshoud, the guide,
walked in advance, scattering the people,
but they We're much incensed at seeing
woman in European. dress in public, as
was evident from their jeering and threat
ening gestures. Koshoud led safely up
the street a short distance and put in
side door which led into a private stall
or alcove. Here he closed the door and
stood outside on guard l do not in the
least question that we would have been
stoned had not Koshoud acted so wisely"
A few days after the adventure four
of the workmen formerly employed by DR..
Haynes at Nippur walked in to pay visit
to their master after a trip Of fifty miles
through the desert. They talked and laugh
ed vociferously, kissing their masters
hands, kneeling at his feet, stroking his
clothes, and calling upon God to bless their
Beg" When DR.. Haynes told them that
Mrs. Haynes was his wife (harem) she
thought they would devour her upon the
spot They at once began saluting and
greeting her, kissing her hands and telling
her that they and their wives would do
whatever she wished.
Finally all was in readiness for the de-
parture from Bagdad, and the men and the
boxes were ferried over the river. Then
the desert journey of fifty miles to Nippur
began.
1t took ten days of adventurous travel
mostly on camel back, though the last
stage was by boat on the waters of the
ancient canal leading to Nippur And all
the way the party was in danger both
from the savage Arabs all about them and
the natural rigors of the region.
On arrival the clay house occupied by
DR.. Haynes on his previous stay there was
unsealed and found in tolerably good con-
diti0n, but further improvements were nee
essary, for there the doctor and Mrs
Haynes were to dwell for more than a year
The walls were very thick to protect the
Americans from the extreme heat of the
summer, and yet the degree of comfort at
tainable was only limited, even after all
ha6 do
Fighting Public Opinion.
Mrs. Haynes had to fight her chief battle
with public opinion. Her husband was pop
ular with his workmen, but it was novel
enterprise to bring a civilized woman
among them. Her reception was chilly, and
had it not been for the friendliness Of the
sheikh of the district, Hail Tarfa by name
the outcome might have been disastrous
Knowing how much depended upon him, all
preparations We're made for receiving him
with due ceremony. A sheep was sacrificed
and tent pitched for the reception of the
sheikh, who would not enter the house. as
1t was considered a harem on account of
Mrs. Haynes living in it. Her account of
this visit had better be given in her own
words.
AS the curious crowd gathered, many of
the more off1cious members of the sterner
sex crowding around the place where my
Aiehiu aHo were SlttHlS, II grew TO De
serious question whether l should hold my
ground or seek the house. decided to STAY
where l was and seem not to notice. l tried
to read, and indeed was reading when /
heard the name 'Hatoon' spoken. Looking
up l saw very tall Arab whose Whiskers
would have been gray had they not been
colored a bright red with henna, and whose
dress of yellow silk clearly indicated that
he was a man of wealth and position,
standing directly in front of me. He was
introduced as the great shekh, Hail Tarfa.
Il quickly arose and salaamed to him,
then advanced. and extending my hand,
salaamed again. AS he took my hand his
great black lustrous eyes looked kindly
down into mine with an expression which
seemed to say: You are very much out OF
place, but you probably mean WELL We
looked at each other only a few seconds 1
to see a great sheikh for the first time and
he to inspect the first white woman he had
met, and 1 then withdrew. The crowd
watched the Introduction In silent respect
and then melted quietly away"
From that time Mrs. Haynes was popular
with the workmen and the natives round
about, and many of the women came to her
to be treated for sore eyes and other affiic-
lions. A child that had fallen into a fire
and been badly burned about the legs was
one of her first patients, and the skill with
which she cured it's wounds did much to
establish her in the good graces of the null
titude.
Popular With the Workmen.
After her popularity seemed tablished,
when no danger to her person appeared
probable, she took her share Of the direc-
simultaneously in various parts Of the huge