The daily morning journal and courier., 1902-06-09

! "oHleh "ho suppoEh 8hoh-ShAes-
 women With Large 1ncomes-Tho ho
 Models and Their Temptations
 Chances of the Workwomen to Pros
 per.
 The atelier of a great Parisian dress
 maker is a wonderful place for so-
 biological study. It is a world in itself
 and all the lights and shadows of Paris f ian life are reflected within it's four
 walls, The philosopher content to sit in one of the great establishments of the | Place Vendome may learn to know his paris surprisingly well, better, perhaps,
 than if he studied on the boulevards or in the cafes, the theaters, the salons.
 For here is the place where one may watch the Parisian woman, and, after all the Partisan woman is Paris. From
 the humble workWoman to the great lady of the Faubourg St. Germain is
 far cry, but the extremes meet on the
 Place Vendome, and between the two come types innumerable, many of them
 extreme enough in all conscience Mon-
 daine and demi-mondaine rub elbows in
 the pursuit of Dame Fashion, who
 queene is over all womanlkind and takes no account of moral law.
 It is the great demi- -mondaine Of
 Paris who enables the dressmaker to
 keep up a princely establishment for
 years and finally retire upon a snug
 fortune She it is who lays down the law of fashion, who launches the modes
 whose extravaganza knows no limits
 who demands the impossible and, hay ing obtained it, pays the price non chalntly. She is without the social pale she may look into the future and see promise of a ruinous piper's bill to be paid when the dance is over; but in the meantime she dances gayly.
 No other women in the world dress so well as these great demi-mondaines of Paris They have not only fascination, figure, beauty, unlimited money, but in a certain histrionic fashion they have god taste Often they have wit, intel feet, talent, genius. Many of the great actresses and singers rank in this class.
 They affect the most elaborate sim plicity in attire. They pour thousands of francs into costumes detail that to the uIlIllldlCu SuSSCSlo iA'tlAliAS phenomenal They wear nothing that is not costly yet they regard con spicuous dressing and inappropri- ate attire as the one unpardonable sin
 The famous dressmakers admit frank ly that they depend chiefly upon the patronage of this class and cater to it's whims After the demi-mondaines, they add, their best patrons are Ameri- | can women.
 "The American women have taste in clothes and skill in wearing them" ex- plained one of the great men simply, Also they are the only quite respecta- ble women who have enough money and i spend it lavishly enough to rank as ex- ceedingly profitable customers"
 There are certain women in Paris | who have such genius for dress that the makers contend for the privilege of l their costumes, and would | gladly donate toilet for any famous occasion, if the customer would but | agree to wear and let it's source be | known; and there are mighty heart | burnings on the Place Vendome when 1 orders for Auteuil the Grand PriX etc., have been definitely placed.
 Interest in the costumes that will be | worn by certain Women-a possible | score recruited impartially from world | and half word-runs high not only among the dressm akers, but also among the women who grudgingly admit the of the elect, and, after the day is over what a buzz of comment runs through salons and ateliers! From the most insignificant helper to the I,;, i,o5iNyiI,1o1 tho establishment that has turned out costume is interested in the success of the creation
 Each atelier of note has it's army of One of the most famous employs 500 workers and keeps them all busy from one years end to another
 At the top of the ladder, next to the head of the establishment and his as- sistant managers, is the corps of sales They are important factors in he success of the house. They must oe plentifully supplied with tact.
 They must understand human nature. They must have sound judgment, per suasive tongues, gracious manners in mite diplomatic ability They must be lble to handle the most exacting and whimsical of patrons so perfectly that he fair tyrants will buy extravagant ind go their way soothed and serene,
 They must adapt themselves to the requirement. of the customer, give her tumble deference, respectful familiar ty, gross 1attery, as she prefers They 1ust know exactly the fnanci7l respon- ibility of each regular buyer, and when ! newcomer drifts in must have her , ooked up before selling to her, yet f must give no offence, must not suggest ven a shade of doubt. 7 Each regular patron has her own fa- f orite saleswoman, and what that 2 alesWoman doesn't know about f 1adame is not worth putting into q f iography; yet, though wise as the pro- erbal serpent, Mademoiselle suggests
 harmlessness that would put a dove } shame. No other class of persons nows the gossip of Paris, the under- urrents of Parisian life like the staff of ( great dressmaker atelier. h There is a book in each house that IT ,ould set society by the ears if it were 1T 1nlicIad as q pIrnDio11a cco0da In1Iso q