The age-herald., 1902-01-26

the decol1ete corsage, and so, until the discovering of the dinner jacket they sat and shvered
 It is Mrs Roosevelts idea to have the dinner jacket fall just below the hips, to have it fit tightly in the back and 10 have it open in the front and made with very loose sleeves. She suggests that it be made of satin. crepe de chine, taffeta or liberty silk and for it's trimming lace, chiffon. marabout or ostrich feathers.
 But there is really nothing fixed or for nal about this new garment. When the thermometer is shrinking into shivers 1t will be worn, adding dignity to brillian- cy. When the mercury begins to dance, presto change, it will disappear and out will come the goddess as if from the foam of the sea.
 What Is more to the point the fashion is a pretty one. Too often prudence ap- pears as a dull and bespectacled old dame and society will have none of her. In the dinner jacket she comes as a coquettsh and fascinating maid, afforded betwich- ing glimpses, even when most unkind, and ever holding out the charm of expec- tancy.
 The dinner jacket affords all sorts of aluring possibilities in the way of de- signs.
 It specially lends itself to originality, And it may become so important a gar ment that a society woman will not con- slider her wardrobe complete unless she has dinner jacket to match every even- ing gown she owns.
 In discussing the dinner jacket it is interesting to see how differently the great dressmakers of the world view it.
 They all have different opinions as to it's shape and length. One says a high collar. Another no collar at all. One re- gards a lining a necessity while others say it should be tight fitting or loose, wheth it shall show the waist line or cover it, and the sleeve Is creating the greatest discussion of all.
 The firm of Beer Paris, suggests dis cussion of all original half s:seve-not a sleeve that covers the arm from the shoulder to the elbow But a sleeve that gracefully drapes the outer side of the arm, leaving the inner side uncovered. It Is a sleeve worth hearing about as it's aim is to serve two purposes at the same time. The drapery Is so arranged that it will protect tho back of the arm from draughts and yet when the jacket is viewed from the front the arms are bare and in no way is the tout ensemble of the decollete gown marred. It is both curious and interesting that the famous house of Raudnitz Paris. and Mrs Roosevelt have Independently of one another and yet simultaneously orignat- ed dinner jacket.
 Mrs. Roosevelt's idea Is distinct jacket with sleeves and fiaring collar. while Raudnitz favors dainty fichu with ilmy sleeves. more of an accessory to the gown than anything else. But both have been designed at the same time to meet the | same need.
 | This plainly shows that it is not only the American women, but tAe fashionable women of both Paris and London who have been suffering martyrdom in their | low-cut dinner gowns from draughts and | ill-heated rooms.
 Redfern, the Raudntz, is emphatic in declaring the dinner jacket an incidental -an accessory only. Redfern does not approve of the collar, neither does he be- 1 lieve that the waist line should be even l in a measure hidden. He is convinced that if the dinner jacket is to become the vogue it must in no way disguise the | curves of the figure.
 Miss Sullivan, representing Mime. | O'Donovan. of New York regards a din- ner jacket with sleeves of any sort inn practicable. She fayors a dinner cape,