The daily morning journal and courier., 1902-04-17
CORONATION FASHIONS.
COURT IRAINS AND CORONETS roo
 fLREABF SEEN.

Difficulties Presented by the Train - Vogue or Ermine-ChRnged Modes oi
 Hair Dressing-HRn and Canes for
 Women -Lomdona Influence la New
 York.
 The coronation of King Edward will
 be of special interest to women the
 world over, as it will create many new
 fashions, not only in dress, but also in
 methods of entertaining and will intro
 duce new fads in decoration, in eti-
 quette, in all the hundred and one items
 that are of interest to the world of
 fashion.
 Many styles that have been some
 thing more than fashion, so deep root
 ed have they become, date back to the
 long ago coronation of Queen Victoria.
 As her reign extended from girlhood to
 old age, customs in dress, in manners
 and in language grew more and more conservative in circles near those of the court
 To be sure there has been, especially of recent years, the gayer London set,
 but Queen Victoria never smiled with special favor upon those who composed 1t. In all the English styles, in coif
 lures, colorings, jewels and other fash
 ions originating at the English capital there has always been expressed marked deference to the queens pro- nounced dislike for display in dress and above all for any of the daring depar
 lures of Parisians that have tended to immodesty in dress.
 It is this that has kept the English tailor gown so long in evidence and es- pecially the English style in hair dress ing. Both of these styles have become settled to degree that Paris has pro- nounced dowdy, while American women have always frightened the pronounced London modes with decided innovations and would have none of the bun and the fringe that have made English wo- mems heads recognizable in any coun- try under the sun.
 Already the effect of coronation fash ions has been noted in New York, while much is kept secret among the modistes who save their newest innovations for exploitation at the time the event itself takes place and interest reaches the highest pitch. Not only in New York, but the world over, those who make fashions in clothes, in jewels, in coif- lures, in furniture, are hard at work de- vising innovat ions to mark the event of the year.
 Caterers will plan new dishes, car riage makers are building new car riages with a tendency to charots in their outlines, the royal emblems of the time will so far as will be permitted by American taste, mark everything that is manufactured for sale from china ware, silver and note paper, to the more expensive and important articles of commerce. horse dealer even pre- diets that the style and color of the horses that will figure in the procession to Westminster Abbey will determine the American fashion of horsefesh
 The rage for ermine fur. which began after the death of Queen Victoria. with an alacrity that suggested the before hand methods of fashionable furrlers abroad, was the very first indication of | the new fashions on this side of the wa | ter. For nearly fifty years this fur had 1 been extremely unfashionable except as | a lining for opera cloaks and for chil- dren's wear, but during the winter just | past, it has been the one fur for dress occasions.
 Court trains have already been seen at fashionable dinners. while the mo- distes have orders for hundreds of oth CTS which are to be worn by American women at entertainments in London at coronation time. More than two sea- sons ago one woman wore one of these court trains at dinner which she gave at the Waldorf and it created sensa- ton, for it was the first one worn in New York in recent years, except It fancy dress functions.
 Every American woman who is pre- sented at court must have one of these trains, but as a rule. she puts 1t away with her wedding gown as souvenir of the occasion, for the truth is, court train is one of the most difficult things to wear gracefully and is cumbrous and awkward to carry; so much so that there is an establishment in London where women about to be presented, get lessons in the difficult movements of ent ering and backing from the presence of royalty while wearing one of the heavy trains.
 The court train is a costly affair. It must almost express ostentation in it's splendor The real court trains are positively ugly in their magnif1cence.
 The Americanized version of the court train Is of richest satin or soft velvet. trimmed with ermine, lace or jeweled | Its lining is second only to | It's extehior in richness of material. It must be luxuriously full and long enough to reach to the floor and trail splenddly for from three to five yards oerind the wearer. It is detachable and l ! fastens to the shoulders usually with two elaborate jeweled clasps. d Tiaras have had an unusual run with ' leaders, but the jewellers say that the coronation has brought in a e demand for the pronounced style of cor | )net The half crown resting on the | ,oiffure above the brow no longer an- swers. The new fashion calls for the ! stiff but nevertheless regal ,oronet extending around the head, and | having the same height all the way ,found. The old-fashioned tiara was much ,rettier but, of course, it was only a nakeshift for real crown. But tia 1 D
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