New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1902-09-29
REAL "TAlLORED' GOWNS
THEIR POPULARITY THIS YEAR AS
GREAT AS EVER BEFORE.

THE smallest goose weighs twenty-four POUNDS,
said the proprietor of ladies tailor
shop. Her apparently irrelevant remark was IN
explanation of the tact that women cannot build
tailor made gowns.
1.-The smallest goose weighs twenty-four POUNDS
and the larger ones weigh thirty. A woman either
cannot manage them at all. or only 1or very
short while time. And tailor does more
with his goose than he does with his needle he
will take piece of cloth and shape 1t Tor tne
side of a waist with his goose But beyond ali
that, women can't do the same kind OF work WIN
the needle. They don't give tailor cut ana nt'
they don't work buttonhoies the same.
can tell the minute see tailor gown maze oy a
woman It isn't really tailor made gown at all
any more than the finest machine made lace Is real
lace. A person who knows can tell the oiHefence
at a glance
Can men make evening dresses and ball gowns?
Not at all Men can no more build in chiffon and
mousseline than women in broadcloth. In
short, men are not any more successful as oreSs-
makers than women are as ta1lors A Ihdh may
learn the art of dressmakng. he may cut ana lit
and design the gown; but when it comes TO carry
ing out his ideas In delicate materials he cannot
do it himself 1t would be too stiff. He has to get
a woman to produce the soft fluffy. lovely ehects
Plenty of dressmaking departments IN
connection with their tailor shops, but the WORK Is
done by women under the charge OF woman
ma mayer. In the same way many women turn
out tailor made gowns from their dressmakihs
shops, but they have workmen who make
them.
LITTLE CHANGE FROM YEAR TO YEAR
THE styles? Well there isn't much change in
tailor made gowns from year to year You see'
tailor made gown is strictly and absolutely plain 1t
is the severity of the style which makes 1t a tal-
or made. Tailored dresses trimmed with SILK or vel
vet or passementerie not tailor made gowns.
Ihey are called fancy tailor mades but they never
have the same style and distinction the severe
ly plain tailor made which must depend for all its
beauty upon its cut and finish. All the 1uffiness
which you see about tailor made gown is in the
waist which the woman wears under the jacket,
usually Of silk thin materials
This fall the runabout skirt, which is just off
the ground. is not fared quite much, but the
Long 5kt retains all its fare We are making
p0S pos packs We are ornamenting some waists
material We are making more sleeves of the plain,
close variety than any other. but also few 6ell
severe styles in their tailor made gowns The more
gowns the better they s'' ike e'i it -'O' ''''
.,r We are making lots of long. loose and half fit
half length but the majority threequarters length
are making them of melton keTsey and heavy
so 6n 6 a hurt on e bslz
" We don't compete with them at ali. They
Tqnt hurt our trade and we don't hurt theirs
neWe4 tb TTqid4 go to them Our people would
could get either the it or the finish that they
demand =, Ready made tailor made gowns can be
der $50 Do you know how long It takes tailor to
make a coat! Well, If he makes coats q
week, with a helper, he's doing we'll
TAILORED GOWN INDISPENSABLE.
, ID woman who pretends to be well dressed can
get along without two tailor made gowns-one rum
about, and one with long skirt The latter she
wear on almost any occasion which does not de-
mand full dress calling carriage, matinee church.
afternoon parties Her different waists adapt 1t to
all sorts of different occasions. This fall more
waists of mousseline and grenadne and other soft
materials are being worn with them than be-
fore.
The American tailor made gown leads the world
in It's line. Our customers sometimes get tailor
gowns in England beguiled by their cheapness but
when they get home they come to us for altera-
tons. and the expense of the alterations brings
them up to the standard price. The finish of the
English gowns is just good, and the materials
sometimes better, but it is in the they fail
Some way another, they don't know how to get
| the graceful lines. Their cut Is clumsy and ugly
The Paris people don't do much with tailor made
gowns 1t is contrary to the spirit of the French
made gowns, the best in Europe
THE American woman? She is the dresser par
excellence Of the world to-day 1t is her taste
which is fixing the methods Of the greatest mo-
distes in the world. And she Is studying both
self and clothes all the time and growing more
exacting year by year. IN fact she knows too
nnuch-that's what: she knows too much"