Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-10-25

| a bodice draw string Of black chiffon with
| lace ends. This ran through a narrow en-
| tredeux of brown-yellow lace, a similar
| band bordering the tucked upper portion of
| the sleeves. The yoke was likewise tucked,
| and heading the embroidered skirt founce,
! attached with tucking, there was another
| lace band.
This wax lady showed as much sophisti-
| cation in her headgear as in her frock and
| couture. Her hat was what the matinee
| girl might call "a perfect love"-a very fiat
| shape made almost entirely of green velvet
| grape leaves. Bunches of the white and
| blue fruit massed 1t evenly at the two sides.
| Still a third wax lady-another beauty Of
| the class cage aristocracy; for there are
classes even in wax people, you know-wore
a velvet frock. deep plum in color, and
spotted sc~tteringly with white. Narrow
biases Of plum cloth trimmed this effect
lively, the bands shaping on the skirt a
initiated a tail for the bodice, which, like
wise trimmed with the cloth, opened over
white lace vest, with a bunchy cravat
White panne, worked with gold, covered the
reverS, and the same material in plum
shaped the girde.
Many velvet gowns are seen, some of
them, both in black and color, a little too
jetted and spangled for good taste. But
when trimmed with plain cloth they are
emnently desirable, and since some Of the
English velveteens might almost pass for
the real thing a velvet dress seems possible
to all.
A Revived Style.
The revived style of using narrow bands
of fur on cloth is eloquently suited to the
richly tinted draps in vogue. For instance,
a smart little gown of coral pink cloth was
trimmed with narrow rows of brown sable,
these bordering the simply gored skirt, wide
sleeves and a little shoulder cape. Some
sort of a deep collar or cape effect distin-
guished many of the French toilets, on
number of which a coarse wash lace sug
gestive of crochet is used. When the frock
is white this dentelle course mat ches, for
1t never varies in color from the gown. One
white cloth costume possessed a treasure
in lace-an odd guipure sort of wear with
huge punches OF raised grapes hanging
from leaf-wreathed trellis more delicately
traced.
chantic emblems, if the ghost of Omar
had risen in new place. When the grape
enbroideries are done in chenille they seem
a fairy fruit, and the velvet punches for
hats look almost edible. Oh, we'll might we
sing with Omar the hymn of the grape for
never did nature suggest to woman more
bewitching adornment.
One wonders almost while looking at
these artificial delicacies why Eve was so
stupid to choose the fig leaf for the first
garment. Grape leaves, with ends of the
vine for sashes, would have made pref
tier overskrt, and think how we would
love to picture her with purple punches in
her hair!
Imported millinery displays upon close
examination carelessneSs of sewing which
undoubtedly has to do with the effects
gained Flowers, velvet, lace and ribbon
seem literally flung together, the whole pro-
ducing a look which is French and nothing
else.
Again, some vast, shirred velvet-shapes
have a deliciously homemade air, as If one
were too poor to get the boughten things.
These mammoth scoops, the sides roll
ing up very high, and a clumsy back piece
running down over the hair The airy and
Enthusiastically French touch comes in with
a lace drapery put on in various ways at
the front and sides, but always with dang
ling ends behind. MARY DEAN.