Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1902-05-20
An American Woman's Expert
ence at Nippur.
Excavations at Ancient Center of Sci
ence and Art.
Meeting the Great Sheikh OF the Dis
misunderstanding Tablets.

in the work Of excayating ancient
ruins in unique. This has been done
hv an American woman, Mrs. John Il.
HAYNES. who accompanied her husband
in The la. ast expedition sent out by
the University of Pennsylvania TO con-
1inue the excavations begun by him in
con junction with DR.. Hilprecht at
Nippur some years ago, says the
Washington Star.
1t was during the last campaign in
which DR.. Haynes was accompanied
and assisted by his wife that the now
famous library of twenty-three thou
sand clay tablets was discovered
When deciphered these cannot fall 10
shed a flood of light upon the lie led
by the men and women in one OF AS
syria's greatest cities four thousand
years before Christ.
The Journey from New York 70 Bag
dad was no different from hundreds
Of similar Journeys taken by tourists
hut at that point Mrs. Haynes ad-
ventures began. Some Of her ad-
ventures she described To the writer in
New York the other day. We
stupped in front of fruit stand in the
Bagdad bazaar" said Mrs. Haynes,
ITO look at the oranges. Soon u great
crowd gathered. completely blocking
the street When we tried to move on
The crowd followed and at last grew 50
noisy that we could not in safety re
main. Koshoud. the guide, walked in
advance scattering the people, but
they were much incensede at seeing a
woman i'm European dress in public,
as was evident from their jeering and
threatening gestures. Koshoud led
us safely up the street a short dis
tance and put us inside d door which
led into private stall or alcOVe. Here
he closed the door and stood outside on
guard. / do not in the least question
that We would have been stoned had
not Koshoud acted so wisely.
A few days after the adventure four
of the wOrkman formerly employed by
Dr. HAYNES at Nippur walked in TO
pay Il visit to their master after a
trip Of fifty miles through the desert
They talked and laughed vociferously.
kissing their masters hands, kneelinG
at his feet. stroking his clothes. and
calling upon God to bless their Beg.
When DR.. Haynes told them that Mrs.
Haynes was hfs wife tharemD she
thought they would devour her upon
the spot. They 1T once began saiutinS
and greeting her. kissing her hands
and telling her that they and their
wives would do whatever she wished.
Finally all was in readiness for the
departure from Bagdad. and the men
and the boxes were ferrIed over the
river. Then Jhe desert journey of fifty
miles 20 Nippur begar.
II took ten days of adventurous
travel mostly on camel back, though
The last stage was by boat on the
waters of the ancient canal leading to
Nippur And all the way the party
was in danger both from the savage
Arabs all about them and the natural
rigors Of the region.
On arrival the clay house occupied
by DR.. Haynes on his previous stay
there was unsealcd and found in toll
crabIy good condition. but further inn
movements were necessary. for there
the doctor and Mrs. Haynes were tc
dwell for more than year. The
walls were very thick to protect the
Anne ricans from the extreme heat 81
the summer. and yet the degree n
comfort attainable was only limited
even after all practicable repairs hao
been made.
Mrs. Haynes had to fight her chic
battle with public opinion. Her hus
band was popular with his workmen
but it was a novel enterprise TO bring 4
civilized woman among them. Her re
ception was chilly. and had it no
been for the friendiness of the shekl
of the district. Hail Tarfa by name
the outcome might have been disas
trous. knowing how much depende,
Il, ali
for receiving MIN with due ceremony
A sneep was sacrificed and a ten
pitched for the reception of the sheikh
who would not enter the house. as
was considered a harem on account o
Mrs. Haynes living in it. Her accoun
Of this visit had better be given in he
own words.
''As the curious crowd gathered
many of the more officious members o
the sterner sex crowding around TIL
place where my maid and | were sit
ting. it grew to be serious question
whether 1 should hold my ground o
seek the house. l decided to sta,
where was and seem not to notice.
tried TO read, and indeed was readin.
when heard the name 'Hatoon' spok
en- Looking up saw very tall Arab
whose WhiSkerS would have been gra,
had they not been colored a bright rec
with henna. and whose dress of yellow
SILK clearly Indicated that he was 1
man of wealth and position. standn,
directly in front of me. He was in
PRODUCED as the great sheikh, Hal
Tarfa.
Il quickly arose and saiaamed t,
him. then advanced. and extending m,
hand. salaamed again. AS he took m,
hand his great black lustrous eye:
looked kindly down into mine with al
expression which seemed to say 70,
are very much out of place. but yo,
probably mean well' We looked a
each other only few seconds. to Sc,
a great sheikh for the first time ana
he to inspect the first white woman h,
had met and l then, withdrew. The
crowd watched the Introduction in 81
lent respect and then melted quietly
away
From that time Mrs Haynes was
popular with the workmen and the ma
tives round about. and many of the
women came to her to be treated for