Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-04-12

penses with any additional trimming
Sleeves afford the chief novelties in blouse
making. They are usually tight fitting at
least to the elbow Beyond that there is no
hard and fast rule to be followed. One may
have sleeves plain or very full, according
to taste. One model has a sleeve slashed
below the elbow to show inner puff of
lace. a second falls in loose points below
the elbow over full underseeves of lace.
while a third of pin-pont tucking forms
sheath at the elbow over Il very full puff of
chiffon. The bishop sleeve. made with extra
fullnesS, may be finished at the wrist with
a triple cuff of silk and lace. A recent
Turkish looking sleeve was cut open at the
wrist to disclose fulinesS of white muslin
underneath
Long Loose Coat.
Long, loose coats to be worn over light
summer toilets for evening wear are ex-
tremely handsome. They are very much
lace trimmed. One recently seen was Of
smoothfaced pearl gray cloth laid in deep
tucks at wide intervals. The sleeves were
the very full and open ones. with turned
back cuffs faced with satin and lined with
ribbon embroidery in pale olive green. The
straight fronts of the coat were faced with
bands of lace, over the surface Of which IN
simple Greek tracery ran the Ines of olive
green ribbon. TheSsquare collar was SINH
larly decorated, while the stiff, high collar
that rose back of the neck seemed to be en-
tirely composed of lace. Such a cloak can
easily be thrown over light arfly FASH
Toned gown. and as it is lined with soft,
thin silk its weight will not crush the most
delicate summer toilet. I'd
Blue is an acceptable color. Yesterday I
had opportunity to note a gown that COM
bined some odd and pretty ideas. The color
was pecuiar-What one might call violet
blue. The cut of the sleeves suggested the
Henri " period. They were very full, but
gathered to the arm In two puffs to the
elbow. From that point they were slashed
to the wrist, disclosing under-sleeve of
embroidered crepe de chine. Pearl
buttons and clasps were the decorations.
Over the shoulders fell tabled epaulets. a
tabled border being supplied to the vest Of
white crepe de chine that hung loosely over
a giriie of dark blue silk. Roses were en-
broidered upon the vest, their petals being
supplied by rose pink crepe de chine and
their outlines with embroidery silk of a
darker lighter shade, art or nature
suggested. The front breadth of the skirt
was curiously brought into prominence by
the use of tabs bound with oyster white
satin. The latter also framed the tabs that
formed the epauletS and the border for the
vest The collar Of the soft white crepe de
chine was covered with embroidered rose
buds
Scroll strappings.
Silk strappngs on spring gowns are all
most compulsory. They appear on all cloth
garments, and are in scrolled patterns
where that is possible. The strappngs are
selected in a shade of silk either one tone
lighter one tone darker than the cloth of
the gown. Strapped borders around the
| margin of the skirt are favorite trimming
and are in some Greek foliage design.
Folds of silk or satin are also decorative
as finish for skirts, and, like the strap
pings. they must vary in color from dark to
light. A charming effect was produced
with this trimming princess gown of
wood brown cloth. Six moderately wide
folds of satin were stitched to the lower
part of the skirt. The cloth of the gown
was cut off al the shoulders. and above this
was set yoke of pompadour silk with pale
blue and rose pink flowers upon a cream
tinted background. The collar of silk was
covered with a fiat application of guipure
lace, band of the eneirclng the
shoulders. Just below the arms was laid
another band of handsome lace figures.
The space between the bands of lace was
crossed by stitched bands of the brown
satin similar to those upon the skirt The
sleeves were bell shaped and apparently
cut in three-Shaped pieces. Full puffs of
| the pompadour silk at the wrists filled in
| the spaces beneath the cloth.
The tendency Is to avoid strong color
| contrasts. Harmony is striven for In every
detail OF the dressmaker's art While Diff
| ferent materials are skillfully combined in
/ the foundation of a garment these are al
ways of tints that melt one into the other.
| and the trimmings, while they may be. of
| half a dozen different shades, are so grad
uated that they merge tone by tone into the
| other coiors Of the costume
| CATHERINE TALBOT.