davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-10-18

in as their personal baggage Others would
put on half dozen different dresses in one
day, wearing each a few minutes in order
to say that the dresses had already been
worn. Others sewed old Innings into the
gowns and all sorts of schemes were used
to make the new things look old.
The customs officers were lenient and al
lowed such goods to pass through. New
York dressmakers came here and smuggled
back dresses to their customers and the
Paris dressmakers were accustomed to take
orders for future delivery and send them
nome by American friends. 1t is estimated
that about 20 900 American women took home
dresses In this way. and today, of the many
thousands who pass through Paris, it is
seldom that one leaves without a new gown
and hat The wholesale business has, how
ever. been stopped by the customs officers,
and the result is a wonderful falling off in
the Paris dressmakers' trade.
Paris Dressmakers Who Live on
Americans.
Indeed, many Of these Paris dress
makers live on the business they do for
foreigners. Some Of them have American
custom which IS worth hundreds of thou
sands of dollars a year. I am told that the
big department stores sell millions of dol
lars worth Of goods to American tourists
every season, and that the fashionable mil
l1nery establishments depend much on their
sales TO American women
Paris sets the fashions for the world and
all or our big department stores send their
buyers here for fashionable costumes. They
buy only dress or so OF a kind to show
these IN their windows and take orders for
copies. Such dresses are called models. and
making them Is regular business. There
is a large class of women here who do
nothing else but design new gowns. They
live in the little dark side streets of Paris.
working away, out of sight. They will
make a complete costume for 700 francs
Sl40) and upwards and it is such costumes
that are bought by the American dealers.
sometimes a design is shown in miniature,
a doll being dressed up to explain the COM
pleted product, but in general the costumes
are or null size, so that they can be sold out
right when desired. I am told that some
or our importers bring in hundreds of such
designs every year.
The Sewing Girls of Paris.
Few people have any idea of the enormous
amount of work done in Paris. The city
Is looked upon as the center of gayety and
fashion not only for France but for the
world; and 1t Is a common saying that all
the world comes to Paris to shop. The
American tourist sees a crowd of loafers,
OLD and young, struttng up and down the
pouleVards and the fashionable, we'll
dressed throng of ladies and gentlemen
driving on the Champs Elysees and in the
Bols de Boulogne and thinks that this is
Paris The real Paris; is Woodworking
city, with more laborers perhaps to its pop
ulatlon than any other city of Europe. 1t
Is the city of workshops and petty factories.
1t Is estimated that there are $4,000 fac
tories and workshops in the city, and in
ADDITION there are thousands of outsiders
VINO work at their homes. The usual fac
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-10-18
I'm BUSINESS PARIS
A City of $4,000 Workshops
and Establishments.
10000 SEW IN & GIRLS
HOW TRADE IS INJURED BY THE
NEW CUSTOM LAWS.
A View of the Town From Eiffel
Tower-New Public
Works.
10000 SEW IN d GIRLS
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.

Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
Copyright, 1902 by Frank G. Carpenter)
PARIS, France
The United States treasury is costing
Paris millions of dollars. The rigid GUS
toms examinations now eXacted at New
York and other ports are preventing the
introduction of Paris dresses, and the great
firms here have had large falling off in
their American trade. AS it is now no wo-
man can take more than 500 worth
of clothes into the United States without
paying duty. Everything is examined, the
passengers are made to declare Just what
they have, and there is no possible way of
smuggling in without lying.
1t costs from $50 to 500 to get even a
wooden dress made by the best Paris dress
maker and silks and fancy gowns range
from 500 and upward. Much lower prices
than these are put on the bills given out by
the dressmakers in order that thew be
shown to the customs officers and less duty
be paid Such fraud is often detected and
even when not the extra cost is enormous
1t used to be that thousands of American
women came regularly to Paris to replenish
their wardrobes. Each would buy 81 600
or more worth of hats and gowns and the
eight or ten trunks filled with dresses.
Many of them would not even wear the
dresses before sailing and would pass them
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-10-18

a few boxes of cigars or a few pounds of to-
bacco you must write request to the off1-
Gals to that effect on government stamped
paper. An agent will call upon you to see
that you are the person who wrote the let
ter and to give you permission. WncH the
tobacco comes he will call again to see that
it goes to the right party, and that the duty
is promptly paid. France buys a great deal
of it's tobacco from the United States. 1t
comes in hogsheads to Havre, Bordeaux and
Marseiles, and is shipped thence in most
ca ses to Paris. The government has i'm
mense factory here on the banks of the
Seine which employs over 1000 hands and
bacco year. The chief officials are grad
yates of the polytechnic school, and they
must have spent two years in studying to-
bacco and the process of its manufacture.
The government gets over 10000, 900 year
out of this monopoly, and the expenses of
the army are largely borne by 1t. There is
also tax upon salt and on matches, both
Of which are government monopolieS.
A Well-Managed City.
In my English letters I wrote of the niu-
nicipal improvements which the chief cities
Of that country are making. I found that
many OF them are now tearing down cid
buildings and widening their business
fifty years ago, and as a result she now has
the best streets Of the world. 1t was in 1852
that the work began. The first IMPROVE
expense was borne by the state. Two
years later an expenditure Of $4,000. 600 was
authorized, and later on there was an ap-
preparation OF $3S 000. 900 at one time.
This year the government has voted to
spend s4000o,00o in extending the public
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-10-18

you can send a postal card flying to any
part of the city. You can send reply card
for the same amount, and thus get an
answer quickly, even more quickly
than by telegraph. The telegraphs are
under the government, and the charges are
less than half those of America. The rate
is ten cents for the first ten words, and
one cent for every additional word to every
part of France. You send a telegram
to Great Britain for four cents a word and
cable to the United States for twenty-five
cents per word.
The post office department has a parcel
system by which small packages weighing
up to twenty pounds can be sent. Six
pounds Will be taken to any railroad sta
tion in France for twelve cents. or for
seventeen cents it will be delivered at your
house. ten-pound package costs twenty
five cents, and twenty-pound one only
thirty cents. The stores take advantage of
these rates ana many thousands of pack
ages are sent out by them daily to their
customers in all parts of the republic.
The telephones are also connected to some
extent with the post office. They are to be
found at every station, and also in stands
on the streets. The fee for all parts of
Paris is five cents for talk of five minutes
and five cents for three minutes up to fif
teen miles outside Paris, and ten cents ad-
ditional for the same time for every sixty
miles beyond.
The Tobacco Monopoly.
In buying stamps outside the post office
IN the FRENCH cites you go TO the cigar
shops, for the government here sells all the
tobacco, and the tobacco agents handle
stamps as well. The shops are called debts
de la reggie; they have red lamps over them,
and you can tell them as far as You can
see. The prices are the same everywhere
and the tobacco is universally bad. The
most popular brands of the native cigars
are the Londres, which you buy at six cents
apiece, or the demi-Londres at three.
Foreign cigars and cigarettes are very
high and are sold only by government per-
mission. All importations of tobacco are
rigidly watched and none is allowed 10 be
grown without authority from the govern
ment. If you sprout a plant in your garden
you must notify the authorities and they
will send a man to number the leaves, and
when the plant Is ripe you will have to &C
count for every leaf If you wish to import
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-10-18

OF Paris which means notions and fancy
goods of all sorts, including jewelry arti-
i1cial flowers, buttons, and other things in
leather, ivory horn and bone. Indeed, the
French make almost everything you can
imagine, and they make everything WELL
Well-Fed and Prosperous.
like these common people of Paris They
are more civilized than the lower classes of
the English cities. They wear better
clothes, are better fed and seem to be
happy and prosperous. There is drinking
everywhere, but no intoxication. Every
one has wine with his meals but I have
yet to see drunken man in Paris. In
London you meet drunken men on almost
every block in the poorer parts of the city,
and common sight is a drunken woman
dancing with her fellows while she holds
baby at her breast.
hand to mouth. The average Frenchman
patronizes the savings banks. He lives
within his means and there is such
thing as the regular spending of the sur
plus drink, as in England If our trea-
ties can be modified that American
goods can be brought in on an equal foot
ing with others the French will become
good customers, for they appreciate what
is cheap and good, and they have the
money to buy.
Postal Savings Banks for the Poor.
Speaking of the savings banks, the French
government does much to educate it's peo-
pie to thrift. The postal savings banks are
the places of deposit not only for the
grown-ups, but even for the children. They
are connected with the schools in such a
way that child can deposit penny
at a time. the teacher being, 1t were,
the branch banker. Any one who wishes
can open an account in the Postal Savings
Bank either for himself or for any one else;
parents deposit money for their children,
and a child can have an account in his own
name which cannot be touched by his par
ents. Deposits as low as one franc, or
twenty cents, will be received, you can
buy postage stamps and paste them in your
bank book, putting away one, two, three or
four or five cents at a time you please.
Upon presenting your book these stamps
properly credited; Accounts al
lowed to run until they reach $500, after
which you can if you wish, withdraw and
start again. The government pays you an
posits. 1t also gives depositors advice to
investments. and especially when the
general government or the different cities
of France are about to issue loans. Such
leans are made in bonds. of low denomina-
ton, and the result is that they are scat
tered throughout France. Every bondhold-
er and every savings bank depositor thus
gets a personal interest in the government,
and this makes the French nation of
| patriots as well as politicians.
Cheap Telephones and Telegraphs.
Indeed, there are many things that the
French do as wei, if not better, than the
United States. Their postal service here is
better than ours. 1t includes a system of
| pneumatic tubes, by which, for six cents,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-10-18
tories are very small, the average number
of hands being six.

tories are very small, the average number
of hands being six.
A great deal of work is done by sweat
shops, who give the stuffs out and take in
the completed product, at so much a piece.
rms is largely SO as to gowns and hats,
upon which. 1t is estimated, 10000 girls are
kept working for about eight months of
the year. The girls receive very low prices
and ordinary sewing girls can make less
than dollar day while working, and some
not more than half that amount. The de-
signers are, of course. paid we'll, but the
average wages are far below those paid
| in the United States.
In the factories themselves the hours are
long. L have gone through the busiest
ing and have seen sewing girls working in
the cellars far below the level of the streets.
The stores here close between and p. m.
Many of them have women clerks, and one
of the curious sights of Paris is these clerks
leaving work Some of the stores have iron
shutters which slide down from the top,
making wall of sheet iron over the whole
front. This wall is let down before the
clerks leave, and there is little door about
three feet high and two feet wide which is
left open until they get out. They crawl
through this door at night and crawl in in
the morning, long procession of women
and men. going in and out like so many
dogs. They straighten up, however, inn
mediately they get outside, and walk off
so jauntily that you would never imagine
they had been working all day.
Some Things Paris Does.
] have spoken of Paris az a manufacture
ing city. 1t makes everything under the
sun, from pins to locomotives. from buttons
to balloons, and from gloves to gowns. 1t
has 1000 people who are engaged in max
ing only parts of ladies' dresses in contra
distinction to the complete gowns, and
these turn out product amounting to $15,-
00O,O 600 year. 1t has tens of thousands at
work on corsets not only for Paris, but for
all parts of France and for shipment
abroad. The French corset is an expensive
luxury, and a good one from hgh-priced
maker costs as much as $40. You can get
others shaped to your person for as low as
S., and if you so plebean as to buy
readymade article you will find a large
variety of such goods at still lower prices.
Paris manufactures great deal of furni-
ture. 1t has about 5000 workshops of this
kind, each employing three or four hands
The furniture is costly, and it does not COM
pare in quality with that of the United
States made by machinery France has a
high tariff on such importations, however,
and at present about the only American
furniture sold is office chairs and roll-top
desks.
There are 1000 shops here which make
watches, turning out yearly product
worth about $1,000 GEO. and there are many
thousand people engaged in making articles
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-10-18
cover the Long Divide. ="
From Forest and Stream

=
Over the Long Dividel" With anxious thought
Man has an answer to this question sought,
what lies beyond? The entire human race,
Chaldea, Syria. Egypt, Greece and Rome
Have crossed the crest to an unfathomed home
Nor knew the semblance of that dwelling place
That waited them; with portals dark and wide
Beyond the summit of the Long Divide.
Over the Long Divide! the endless streams
" passing mortals leave US but their dreams
The Hindoo Of Nfrvana, while on fields Elysiau
The Greek and Roman sported and the souls
OF Odin's warriors drained their wassail bowls:
Saint John in his Apocalyptic vision
Bland choral Symphonies. resembling wide
From golden harps beyond the Long Divide
Beyond the Long Divide the Indian found
Wide prairies spread. happy hunting ground;
10 dreams agreed, Hope colored every thought,
Left In the casket by Pandora riven,
Although no answering message she has brought
Illumed by Faith, she's yet the only guide
To light the traveller Ger the Long Divide!
---.----'-,---- Won W.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-10-18

works and identifying the city. Two and
one-half million dollars is to go for en-
larging the markets. which are already the
largest of the world One million six hum
dred thousand dollars is to be spent on the
completion of the Palace Of Justice and
large sums on the extension of the boule-
ward system. The Champs Elysees is to be
heightened, new bridges are to be built over
the Seine. and new technical schools are to
be established. Paris steadily moves on
ward. Like her people, she delights IN new
clothes and appreciates that ii pays to
prmp and powder. She Is making many
sanitary improvements. and with her wide
boulevards and her many parks and open
places she has today good a set of lungs
or breat hing places as any city of Europe.
How Paris Keeps Clean.
The city authorities see that the town is
well kept. The streets are swept every day by
army of 5000 men and boys, and at night
there are streetsweeping machines which
push all the dust and dirt into the cutters,
from where it is washed in the early morn
ing into the sewers with the hose 1t costs
Paris almost two million dollars a year to
flush the sewers and for the removal OF
rubbish. 1t costs more than that to light
and clean the public promenad"s and about
five million dollars to keep the streets in
repair. Altogether the streets are better
kept than those of any other European city,
with the possible exception of Berlin. They
are well paved with wood and asphalt and
you can drive upon them for miles without
a jolt
Paris From the Eiffel Tower.
I doubt, in fact, whether there is a more
beautiful city in the world. / took the ele-
vator yesterday and mounted 10 the top of
the Eiffel tower for bird s-eye view of tho
French metropolis. l was a thousand feet
above it, so high up that the men walking
along the streets below looked like crawling
bugs and those carrying umbrellas like g!-
gantic beetles. The street were
automobiles made me think of toy engines
flying along.
At that height the city looked more like
a map model town cut out for the occa-
sion. Acres assumed the size of town lots
and mighty buildings looked no bigger than
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-10-18
Always at It.


"'Yever see man with a bigger head
than Buskins? think he's blowing all the
time except when he's by himself"
Even then, l suppose, he's blowing men.
tally''' $1,000
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-12-20

long ago, of course, but juvenile functions
hold all through the winter, and if party
Clothes have not been bought it Is time to
think Of them. Fine feathers not only make
fine birds; they keep aching jealousies from
little hearts. They also help manners pro-
digiously, which alone is point sufficiently
serious to demand consideration.
Very dainty are some of the little frocks
in plaid s iks for girls from eight to twelve
with sashes and bodice knots of black vel
vet ribbon and dropping collars in sheer
white textiles. They are in the short
sleeved, Iow-necked styles so long worn,
with gored skirt, a hip yoke, or f1ounces
sometimes for novelty. Other skirts are
fingered, very full and simply hemmed, and
WASTED bodies take many becoming lines
The prettiest gowns are in the gayest
plaids, brilliant scarlets and blues, con-
trasting with black and white. Tender
shades of yellow are also seen in the plaid
silks; also old rose and even black and
white.
Charming costumes in Powered silks and
pretty, inexpensive toilets in pale-tinted
cashmeIes and deaines are made after the
same models,
Light Fabrics.
The strictly gala dress of the small girls
for with high long-sleeved guimpes these
smart frocks can be worn anywhere-is of
fairy lghtness. Point d'esprit Brussels
net, and many delicate novelty gauzes are
outlinings of fragile gilt threads, or SPAN
giles. or garlands of small flowers for orna
ment. A ballet look is sometimes made by
mounting the outside skirt over many airy
petticoats, and with this satin sandals, tied
on ballet fashion with ribbons, are dainty
details.
For very small girls, as we'll as for boys.
Russian blouse suits In white and colored
silks are seen, with the bodices longer than
ever and the skirts shorter.
O
or black socks are dressy foot coverings tor
the smallest fry of both sexes, and so much
is the ribbon or velvet hair bow now a part
of the maiden toilet that the shops are
providing them ready made.
AS for bigger boys, their party spendor
seems to consist generally in the extreme
newness of the street suits that they COM
monty wear. Elegant suits in white cloth
and velvet. in long trouSer sailor models
and little prince designs, are also observed.
Nautical emblems in red and blue en-
broideries and brass buttons stamped with
the national eagle, serve as ornamentation.
The velvet suits depend chiefly upon pic,
turesque cut and deep embroidery or lace
trimmed collars and cuffs for effect. These
deck little bob-tail coats in blue, black or
brown the puff of the fine white shirt
showing under the edges.
Now having dressed up a batch Of the
small fry, let us assume that pretty young
mother stands by suitably costumed.
There's nothing like good example, you
know, and the mother who enters into the
spirit of her child's pleasure holds his con-
idence forever. So, dear little family, we
twinkling Christmas tree stands ready to
dazzle your eyes and spoil all your finery
if you go too near. And merry Christmas
to you all! MARY DEAN.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-12-20
Distrust Between Allies.
the St. Petersburg SWEET.

From the st. Petersburg SWEET
Just at a time when all other nations,
more or less hostile to France, such as Eng
land, Germany and Japan. are strengthen
ing their naval forces it'll feverish haste,
France is disarming TO such an extent that
she practically paralyZes herself on the
sea- Russia cannot regard with indiffer-
ence the adoption of such course. French
statesmen and the French press very
ready to criticise the action of Russia to-
ward her ally, and do not hesitate at times
to manifest an unjustifable distrust regard
ing us. In the present instance, however,
1t Is for US to show in turn certain ankle
ty
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-12-20
An All-Over Lace Blouse.

pretty French blouse is made of all
over Irish lace, with narrow box plaits of
pink louisine silk at regular intervals on
the lower part of the waist and on the en-
tire sleeve length. The indented shoulder
collar has the same lace applied as a trim
ming. and the tiny yoke and straight, high
collar are also of the lace. Striped black
and white bias velvet forms the plain fitted
belt and sailor tie. The choker is headed
top and bottom with bands of black tulle,
which spread out in large loops at the back
of the neck. This arrangement gives a
pretty and becoming effect to the face. The
sleeves are tight to the elbow, where they
spread into puff above the wrist and are
again gathered into a cuff at the hand
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-12-20
Pleasantries Of War.
From the London Express.

A reader has sent us the following story
Of Gen. Viljoen, which. he says, is abso-
lutely true:
While on the way to keep an appointment
with the Boer general our correspondent
met friend of his-an officer in the Scots
Guards-who had seen service in South At
RIGA.
by the way, I'm going to see an ac-
Quaintance of yours" he said to the officer;
Gen. Viljoen."
'tOh, he's no friend Of mine," was the
comment. He once stole our convoy and
we had to 60 on quarter rations for a fort
night"
Later our correspondent told Gen Viljoen
of his meeting with the officer and what the
latter had said.
The general laughed heartily at the story.
'sTell your friend" he said. II did not steal
his convoy. only borrowed it"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-12-20

"sir." said the pleading youth. Il have
won your daughters heart"
49," unused the elderly sage: well.
reckon that's all right. But, young man,
don't You let her shove off her liver on you;
it's been supporting one physician and three
patent medicine concerns now for hve
years."-Baltimore News.