davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-04-13
The New Spring Couture.

Is the hair going up or is it coming
down? That is the query. In a large
hair dressing establishment the other day
some model coiffures were on exhibition
and they were decidedly interesting.
One of these, not at all practical, show
ed the classic head dress. The hair was
twined with tinselled bands which were
arranged in ornaments upon the ears.
The object was to show women how very
becoming the simple. low styles could
be made and how well beautifully shap-
ed head would show off, if it were al
lowed to display its natural contour, in
stead of being decorated with humps and
bumps braidS and plIffs, curls and other
fixingS of the hair dresSer'S art.
The low styles of hair dressing, really
though as a matter of fact. call for MOTE
real art than the high ones. 1t is COM
paratively easy to dress the hair high,
and care, knowledge and all the rest, to
make it look we'll
A handsome modification Of L'Aiglon IS
shown in a low coiffurc which is made
by waving the whole head. The hair is
parted upon one side and is done in the
to turn both ways like the natural wave
of a curly head.
The hair. after being thoroughly wav-
ed, is all drawn to the nape of the neck
and twisted into big soft kpot which is
afterward lifted a little and spiked To
the middle of the back of the head. The
result is an old-fashioned. though very
becoming dropping knot, careless and
graceful
Ears have certainly gone out Of style.
Tt is claimed that they were never very
much in vogue with artists and that no
picture was ever painted OF a famous
beauty showing her cars. Only the Iobes
are visible and not always those.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-04-13

low, fat collar of velvet and lace was
tied under the chin with bow Of satin
ribbon.
An odd trimming was applied to mer-
yeilleux waist designed with broad sec
ton Of narrow tucks down the front and
down the sides Of the sleeves. About the
collar band of guipure was set, har-
monious bands crossing the shoulders
and coming halfway down the sides of
the bodice. Below this, under the lace,
were set double rows Of plated chiffon,
which fell almost to the crushed girdle.
In a single respect the season is one of
great liberality. Almost any quality of
silk is suitable for blousemaking, al
though the softer kinds are favored.
Black and white are correct in any make.
MeryeilleuX, louisine, taffeta, faiile, pom
gee, erepon de sole. Shangtung pongee,
satin duchesse, peau de sole, crepe de
chine, fieur de bengaline and broche ara
the chief varieties of silk. Laces in gui-
pure, Irish crochet, valenciennes and
luxueil are suitable for trimming, the
waist being considered smart according
to the quantity of lace it carries. The
deep lace collars. extending sometimes
down the front of the bodice are much
worn and give a finish TO a waist that
dispenses with any additional trimming
Sleeves afford the chief novelties in
blousemaking. ney are usually tight
fitting at least to the elbow Beyond
that there is no hard and fast rule 70 be
followed One may have sleeves plain CT
very full, according to taste. One model
mas sleeve slashed below the elbow 70
show inner puff of lace, a second
falls in loose points below the elbow over
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-04-13
The Modern Fable of the Search For 5 the


these the Cues for Mrs Jump get Nose into
the Air and begin to champ at the Bit.
Mother House-Eunter from away back She
claimed to be Invalid eleven months Year
and took Nerve Medicine $500 Bottle Just
the same, when April hove into Dame Nature
Skirt and pair of Shoes intended for a Man did
tall France.
She good for twelve hours Day on any kind
of Pavements With her Reticule of ito Let"
Clippings Street to Street Every
time she struck Fresh Trail she broke Run
Mother looking for a House that had twice as
many Closets Rooms a Southern Exposure On
all four sides.
She had conned herself into the Belief that some
day she would down Queen Anne Shack that
would be o. K. in all Particulars
In the Magazine that every Month she had
these Dream-Pictures Palaces that he put
UP for 81 10000, if you steal your Material.
She had gazel at the Bgnco Illustration of swell
Structure with hushy Trees dotting the
little Girl rolling Hoop along the Cement Sidewalk
and she had set her Heart that kind of a Home
Mother loved to study the Plans and count the Bath
Rooms figure on Window Seats and what kind of
Curtains to put in the Guest Chamber.
Every Spring she found the Place she had teen
seeking gave Grand Signal for the whole Outfit
o begin packing up Those the bright ycrnal
Days when Jump got all that was coming to him
Mr. Jump Man, therefore any odd kind Of 4 Hut
suited Him. For eight years before starting on h.s
continuous Tour with Mother, he had roomed over a
Drug Store
His Apartment had been one of those delectahe
Ban-Jonts where Women butted in TO hide things
and give the whole Place soapy Smell.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-04-13

the wrist to disclose a fullness Of white
muslin underneath.
Long. loose coats to be worn over light
summer toilets for evening wear are ex-
tremely handsome They are very much
lace trimmed. One of these er1anating
from the house of sIaferriere was of
smooth-faced pearl. gray cloth laid in
deep tucks at wide intervals. The sleeves
were the very full and open ones with
turned back cuffs faced with satin ami
lined with ribbon embroidery in pale
olive green. The straight fronts of the
coat were faced with bands of lace. over
the surface eff which in simple Greek
tracery ran the lines of olive green rib
bon. The square collar was similarly
decorated. while the stiff high collar that
rose back of the neck seemed to be en-
tireIy composed of lace. Such a cloak
can easily be thrown over light, airily
fashioned gown, and as it is lined with
soft, thin silk its weight will not crush
the most dencate summer toilet
Blue is an acceptable color. Yesterday
1 had opportunity to note a gown int
compined some odd and pretty 1oeas. The
color was peculiar what one might call
violet blue. the cut of the sleeves sug-
gested the Henri " period. They were
very full, but gathered to the arm in
two puffs to the elbow. From that point
they We're slashed to the wrist. disclos-
ing an undersleeve of rose embroidered
crepe de chine. Parl buttons and clasps
were the decorations. Over the SHOULDERS
fell tabled epaulets, a tabled border be-
ing supplied to the vest Of white crepe
dc chine that hung loosely over a girdIe
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-04-13

with this trimming on a princess gown
OF wood brown cloth Six moderately
wide folds of satin were stitched to the
lower part of the skirt The cloth Of the
gown was cut off at the shoulders. and
above this was set a yoke of pompadou~
silk with pale blue and rose pink flowers
upon cream tinted background. The
color of silk was covered with a fiat an
pllcation of guipure lace a band of the
same encirclng the shoulders. Just be-
low the arms was laid another band Of
handsome lace figures. The space be-
tween the bands of lace was crossed by
stitched bands of the brown satin sim
liar to those upon the skirt The sleeves
We're bell-shaped and apparently cut in
three shaped pieces. Full puffs of the
pompadour silk at the wrists filed in the
spaces beneath the cloth.
The tendency is to avoid strong color
contrasts. Harmony is striven for in
every detail of the dressmaker's art
While different materials are skiilfuIly
combined in the foundation of a gar
ment, these are always of tints that melt
one into the other, and the trimmings,
while they may be of half a dozen diff
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-04-13
For the Right Mouse and Now Mrs
Jump Mad Ner Annual Attack


Then ne hooked up with Laura to get real
Home and she gave him a Year.
Mr.. Jump discovered that although Man
is the Architect of his Fortune, Wife usually
superintends the Construction
When Mrs. Jump made her Spring Announcement
that they would to another House he did deal
Kicking but he always into the Wood Shed
do it. He sassed her nwardly, but not that she
could hear
She Wonder at framing up Reasons for hurI-
ing the Lease back at the Landlord
One Year she quit because the Owner papereG tire
Upstairs with Jay Pattern that cost only 10 cents
Bolt Another time the Family next door kept Chick
ems Usually the Children the Alley net fit
Associates for her little Brood
One Time she quit account of Cockroach She
it the Pantry and that afternoon she
headed for a Renting Agency.
Father suggested that instead vacatng in favor
OF the Cockroach, they offer reward s1eO for it's
capture, dead alive thereby little Money,
but she refused to listen
If the Plumbing wasn't out Of Whack, the Furnace
required much Coal else the Woman the
Street had been divorced too many times.
If they squatted in a Iow-down Neighborhood, Mrs.
Jump ashamed to give her Address to Friends n
the Congregation
If they got into Nest of the New Rich then Laura
had the freeze-out worked her, because Mr.. Jump
a Salary and she had to ride the Trolieys.
So she began looking for which Intellect
successfully stack up against good, old Col
lateral. And, OF course, that meant long Search.
Therefore every May 1st something Red and
the size Caboose backed up the Jumps Several
husky Boys began throwing Things of the Windows
Father did a Vanishing Act When it lift
ing of Piano hanging Pictures he
sad Bluff and he it.
How about Paradse?1 he asked day II
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-04-13

ton which might prove disastrous if she
should remain in tt SOut n.
The trip to her old home ~ therefore
che OF considerable haza d.
In the reCepI-n held at the Morris hotel
there were many men and women who
have known MIS-. Davis for almost half
century. AS an cid vete AN expressed it:
Yes, that is the same kiud-heaTted
woman we used to know. little grayec
perhaps, little feebler, but almost the
same. While she has aged since we saw
her last she looks comparatively young
for her age. and almost as she did thirty
years ago.
Anybody who saw her in those days
would know her now. You could never
mistake the gentleness and kindness with
which she greets those about her. 1t is
one of her chief characteristics. Every
body hopes she will make tits trip in
safety"
Throughout the entire South there is
much enthusiasm at the action Of Mrs.
Davis in selling her old home to he
Southern people.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-04-13

stitching and the narrow tucks that mod
ify their severity. The satin affairs fol-
low in many details the makeup of those
OF taffeta, but are, if anything, even mere
inornate. Groups of shaped plaits take
the place of a yoke and supply the only
furnishings.
Of the tlannels the floral and Paisley
designs are the newest. These are gen
orally made UP in waist patterns with
wide sailor collars faced with silk and
edged with bands Of stitching. The Shout
der collar is often fashioned of the same
material as the blouse, silk being applied
in the shape Of stock and chimesette
in some shades matching the flannel.
These waists are cut very deep in front
end covered with a pointed girdle. The
sleeve bulges a trife over the cuff. A
handsome scarf ties under the wide col
lar.
Wide collars are favored in the de-
signing of bioGses intended for informal
wear They afford an easy way of trim
ming a waist For silk or satin bodices
a lace collar IS preferred. The rule does
not always hold good, however, for a
garment of brick red taffeta laid in pin
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-04-13

ished This is perfectly durable ana
highly decorative when it is treated with
the pompadour rose or the Du Barry
apple.
Along with the less costly furnishings
are used the most charming and mex
pensiVe chintZes. These last can be
bought in all the Louis XIV. and XVI.
colorS-watteau green, pompadour tur-
quoise and duchesse rose-at Is cents
yard. They are used for bedspreads. up
holstery and the straight scant portieres
for doors and windows that accord with
the French decorations
Especially printed Bourbon wall papers
are also to be had, to be laid on solidIy
IN the modern fashion or printed in
separate fancifu patterns for panels that
are marked off with ordinary white
enameled or gilded picture holding, 70
simulate the wall decoration in French
palaces and the famous hotels where the
nobility lived.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-04-13
HINTS FOR HOUSEWIVES.

An experienced housewife recommends
powdered cloves as an eXterminatOr OF
ants The pulveriZed spice should be gen.
erously sprinkled on the shelves and Ia
bIcs frequented by the ants and a fresh
supply sprinkled every day until the pests
disappear. Powdered sulphur used IN tne
same way is also said to be elIicaciOus.
Worn table cloths can be made into
serviceable napkins and tray cloths az
well as polishing towels for fine china
and silver, If the best parts are selected
and nealy hemmed. Table linen TO look
it's best must be Numbered French fash
ion. that is. washed as white as snow and
iToned while very wet with irCns not hot
enough to scorch. The ironing must be
kept up until the linen is perfectly dry,
first on the wrong side to bring out the
pattern and then on the reverse to ac-
quire a polish. Fine damask should new
er be staIched
For darning table linen and fine towels
the fax that is 10 b. obtained in skeinS
in the art embroidery shops is TO be pre-
ferred to the ordinary darning cotton or
the finer French embroidery cotton.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-04-13
The New Colora,

Cloth and frieze are the favorite ma
terials for everyday wear out Of doors.
and they are mostly made in bright col
ors TO cheer us after so many months
of black and gray. The new bright coll
ors are not so crude as they once WERE
They are more becoming to the com
plexion also than they used to be OF
yore, and no one can now accuse them
OF being bad taste Some of the new
pinks and reds are positively lovely.
The new reds are neither crimson scar
let nor brick in shade. Other colors are
turquoise. nut brown, gray, rasturium.
gold and green-also in quite 4 new
shade No color should be too decided
in tone, and no two colors are to be
worn together this season.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-04-13

with oyster white satin. The latter also
framed the tabs that formed the epau-
lets and the border for the vest. The
collar of the soft white crepe de chine
was covered with embroidered rosebuds.
SILK strappings on spring gowns are
almost compulsory. They appear on all
cloth garments and are in scrolied pat
terms where that is possible. The strap
pings are selected in shade Of silk
either one tone lighter or one tone darker
than the cloth of the gown. Strained
borders around the margin Of the skirt
are a favorite trimming and are in some
Greek or foliage design.
FoIds Of silk or satin are also decorative
as finish for skirts. and. like the strap
pings, they must vary in color from dark
to light. charming effect was produced
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-04-13

ferred. They take the shape of snugly
applied bands, neatly set medalhons and
motifs of lace, cunningIy crossed lines
of velvet ribbon and the aforementioned
stitchery, piaits and tucks
A combination of box plaits and lace
made up a modish pink satin blouse cut
to snugly outline the figure The yoke
was a series Of narrow plaits, and the
waist proper was made of alternate bands
of guipure and groups of two narrow
box plaits- The sleeves combined a fore
arm covering of guipure, with three
puffS Of graduated size extending to the
shoulder. The collar itself was a stock
laid in tucks. and the ceinture followed
it in design, except that it slipped
through a wide knot instead of clasping
with an ornamental buckle.
A chiffon waist with low, round neck
was simple and neat with no other dec
orations than two wide front bands of
velvet with pointed edgings of lace turned
back along each side of the bands. These
velvet straps came down the front of the
blouse, one on each side of the front,
and passing under the wide velvet girdIe,
supplied the suggestion of a basque. The
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-04-13
EXQUISITE SETTING FOR BED CHAMBER
Mrs Chauny IDEAL
bu SmpEcty Is

1t does not matter in the least how
much King James oak or Washington
mahogany is used in the library, recep-
ton and drawing rooms OF the prop
erlY furnished country houses, the sleep
ing apartments must be treated with a
lighter hand"
Thus spoke the first authority in
America on interior decoration, who
holds that, though we may go back to
older England and to our own colonial
period for models in living rooms, it is
to the French we must cling for the
highest ideals in the fitting of bed cham
bers.
The French know exactly what a
bed chamber ought to be-" said this emin-
ent decorator. ct must first of all repre-
sent deliciously gay and cheerful serenity,
absolute simplicity and stand complete
without superfiuous furniture, hangings,
etc" a bedroom should, for health's
sake, never be used as a sitting-room;
for health's sake it ought to be also an
Inspiration to high spirits and good tenn
per, and again for healths sake 1t should
be perfectly formal and almost spare in
the amount of fitting employed. This
sensible and healthful philosophy of
furnishing has sensibly taken a firm hold
on the fancy of American country house
prOprietors, and today the e ghteenth
century HT6nCn or MdfqulSe DeOrOOn
furniture is used in all the fine homes on
the big or little country estates.
The wall papers, woodwork, curtains,
carpets and furniture are all either inn
ported directly from France or can be
bought from our own factories, where
the most perfect copies of Louis XIV. and
Louis XVI models are turned out. After
trying many forms of the Eighteenth CEN
fury French household goods the choice
just now has settled on the lacquered
wood and gilded cane of Nine du Bar
rvs period, and perhaps the finest ex-
ample of this style is owned by Mrs.
Chauncey M. Depew, who is learned in
French decorative periods and who re-
ceived a splendid Du Barry set as a we'd
ding present.
This set consists of a double bed, two
bedside cabinets, four chairs, two tabour-
cts and a dressing table. Giided cane and
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-04-13

INTO entire gowns, they have long, flow
ing skirts, either quite plain round the
IlSure or gathered round the waist They
may be made with long or short sleeves
at pleasure, as short sleeves may be
made with high bodices and long sleeves
with low necked bodices according TO
taste and inclination
Very pretty half mourning evening
dresses are made of black lace over
white taffeta, which is quite mourning
enough now and is not Of too somter
appearance. Instead Of lace net may be
used and is indeed preferable to bad imi-
tation lace.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-04-13

plaits are encircled about the waist with
girdle or velvet boosted a double collar
Of finely tucked silk crossed over on the
cream-tinted guipure. The sleeves were
finished with very deep cuffs of the tuck
ed white silk
One Of the daintiest and fullest coll
lars adorned an accordion plated oIue
chiffon waist. The collar consisted of a
deep piece of chiffon tucked half of it's
depth and very full below this where a
double border of lace was applied an
other form of the wide shoulder collar
appeared on waist Of white crepe de
chine, over which was laid bolero of
oyster white satin. The edges of the bo-
lero were finished with bands of cream
lace a frill of which fell from the draped
collar of satin.
Nevertheless fiat trimmings are pre-
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-04-13

On the mantel shelf of pink marble
clock and a candelabrum Of gilt are the
only ornaments and when toilet is In
process of making one of the chintz
covered panels in the wall swings open
and a series of three six foot mirrors
unfolds while putting sconces Of gilt gas
jets above them cast a powerful light
on the evening costume.
While this room has been carried out
IN detail in the richest and most perfect
wood and fabrics that money could buy
an equally satisfactory and correct i'm
preston is secured in the average new
country house al something near fifth
of the cost of this one chamber The
American manufacturer can turn out the
most charming and inexpensive copies
OF the best ponpadour and Du Barry
periods in enamel wood combined with
cane that is first gilded and then warn
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-04-13

Why Mrs. Jefferson Davis
Will Sell Beauvoir

Mrs Jefferson Davis, after refusing
$4,000 from Northern capitalists, has
agreed to sell her beautiful and historic
house. Beauvoir to the Southern people.
1t will be used as home for Confederate
veterans.
For sentimental reasons she has placed
the price at $4,000. The Northern syndi-
cate wanted the old Davis home for hotel
purposes.
After the offer Of $4,000 had been
promptly refused by Mrs. Davis, the
United Daughters of the Confederacy in
augurated a movement looking to the
purchase Of the old Davis home. not only
as home for Confederate veterans. but
as a memorial of the dark days of 1876.
Mrs. Davis was consulted. and. not
withstanding the fact that $4,000 worth of
buildings are on the property, she con-
scented to sell il for $4,000, on the proviso
that the estate should be considered as a
memorial Of her late husband and retain
ed forever in his memory.
The Mississippi senate had already
adopted a bill to provide for the pur
chase Of the property. but some fear has
been expressed that the establishment of
a home for Confederate veterans at Beau
voir might interfere with a state pension
system in vogue for the same veterans.
Mrs Davis is now in Mississippi for the
purpose of comforting with the legislature
regarding the sale of the property says
the New York Herald.
On the way to Jackson Mrs. Davis stop
ped at Birmingham and held a public re-
ception in the parlors of the Morris hotel
Notwithstanding her great age she lore
up well during the informal ceremonies s.
She expressed regret that the weight of
years prevented her from standing and
acknowledging the compliments of the
white-haired men who fought in the
lost cause and ~ whom she has ever
been reve-ed.
She was delighted with the kind senti-
ments expressed by the veterans. She is
living in the North by the direction of
her physicians, as she has a heart affec-
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-04-13
Picturesque Dress.

Dress is becoming more and more pic
turesqCe, each lady being allowed to
choose the style that best suits her;
hence so many styles are now called
fashionable, where as the truth is that
there are several fashions, not one alone.
The last five King Louises Of France give
their fashions, with their splendid bro
cades, laces and all kinds Of rich ex-
tfavagance, which can be worn in the
evening. Those models are made up in
chine. silk and Oriental satin, in white
biscuit. turquoise, green and pink.
Empire gowns, however, are preferred
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-04-13

white lacquered wood, on which in high
relief are carved wreaths of apples that
are richly gilded, is the pattern of the
ten pieces that form the complete furn-
iShings of her exquisite bedroom. On
the floor of this room is a large Am
basson rug of Du Barry pink nearly
covering the highly glazed, hard WOOD
floor. Beyond the area of the rug the
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-04-13
MiIIfnrN.

Large hats" it is said. produce 4
certain intirmity Of temper" caused by
"a loss Of vitality and nerve power con-
sequent on the strain Of keeping the
head at the fashionable angle during
ing"
This seasons hats are particularly COM
Portable in every respect. They are
made chiefly for utility, though at the
same time they are ornamental. pictur-