New-York tribune., 1902-01-12
THE "GRANDE DAME" MODE
STYLE AFFECTED BY SOME FASHION
ABLE PARISENNES THIS WINTER.

VELVET GOWNS IN SEVERE LINES SEEN AT THE
BEST FUNCTIoNs-MrFFs MADE OF FLOWERS.
Paris January 4.
There is good deal of talk of the robe
.grande dame" and much stress is laid the sim
picity and richness which certain coterie Of well
known French mondanes have chosen as the dis
tinctive features Of their toilets Velvet so unVer-
sally this winter, lends itself 10 severe lines
and fur trimming adds distinction and character.
The Comtesse Bori de Castellane is one who has
adopted evidently. this idea of costume. She Is
wearing velvet almost exclusively. and her elabo-
ate afternoon costumes have all been made in
long lines-lines suggestive of court costume At
the family wedding a few months past she ap-
yearcd in "a pink gown. with a court mantle Of the
same falling from her shoulders At wed ling or
the last week she wore a gown Of pearl gray velvet
trimmed with chinchiila. made in the same straight
flowing ,ircs while cloak of the same material
hung from the shoulders. This was. however. made
OF less severe lines for over the shoulders in front
il long uicats. The reyers Of fur were soft
ered hy fails Of lace
The young bride in the Caste,lare family. the
Comtesse Jean Ge CGstelane wore on the same
occasion gown of deep red velvet. anoiher
example cf the 'grande dame mode. The velvet
gown appeared he cut in princess shape. with
the close lines disguised by II. empire scarf Of
velvet lined with ermine and with ermne touches
On choker ard sleeves. As the scarf hung free from
the shoulders. the ermine lining to good
advantage.
A. this particular function there seemed TO be
nothing hut velvet gowns There was a handsome
gown tvrcrn by A relative in mourning for her hus-
handD Of black velvet trimmed with bands Of white
satin embroidered with applications of gray velvet
and black wool. With this carried large
8 nun of gray velvet trimmed with sable tails
AIuffs are always conspicuous. whether made of
costly fur or by some coquettish arrangement of
nousseEe de sos aud flowers. There pretty
rnufs Of white or gray tulle ruffies edged with
--oTr-C. ,tn o,,,aI
with violets. There also pretty muffs entirely
covered with artificial flowers
FOR THE EMPRESS OF RUSSIA
An original trimming shown half mourning
gown Of white silk consists of design of grapes
in black tulle pUffed with leaves of black lace.
The couturiere responsible for this idea that
she is using the same trimming on long, half
loose cloak Of black silk ordered by the Empress
Of Russia
II The same couturierc, OF that small but grow
ing class of Paris dTessmakers who show no models
and profess To make every gown individual, has
shown half dozen OF her creations finished
about % be finished and sent to their owners one
WAS a gown in blue cloth and velvet, the cloth OF
the soft pastel shade. The skirt laid in large
box plsats. with diamonds of velvet in "A deeper
shade framed in lace the bottom of every peat.
The habit was made with a blouse front and pos
tion back of the cloth. but trimmed with velvet
in the way of choker. cuffs and tabs closing the
front. These OF the velvet were embroidered with
a lace edge and white silk braid There belt
Of white panne.
second was a magnificent dinner gown with
foundation OF satin. over this a robe of
cut out pieces Of white silk embroidered
inserted in a nshnet pattern white silk cords;
this was made with double skirt The blouse part
was slashed frills OF lace and supported
trail Of roses from shoulder. The elbow sleeves
finished with puff Of lace.
mourning gown for the afternoon was built of
black Chantilly over black satin, the skirt trimmed
with bands OF narrow black velvet. On the bodice
were bands Of velvet and jets. making a deep col
lar with edge Of jet fringe and the flowing sleeves
made in the same way, opened a long close
Gun OF unlined black lace
GOWN FOR VISITING
An example of a modish little visiting gown was
OF pale green cloth skirt pleated about the
hps and trimmed with several shaped iounces
the bottom The little habit ooquettish as shape
with pointed side pieces and narrow peated pos
uiions behind. of green velvet. The circular
collar, made in three parts, of CLOTH also the
pocket pieces and the turnup cuffs. These and the
ohoker we're edged with sable. The front
cred with frils of cream lace.
certain class of Paris dressmakers seem TO be
adopting a new manner. that of refusing to show
models and Of processing 20 make al gowns simply
from private orders. 1t is certainly discouraging
~ - pay from S00 10 800 for a gown and 10 see the
later in sIe h same go@n @ SHOWN h a rev months
-eaoy made suits. American dressmakers who
CT buying models and bringing them home takes
large sum out OF the years profits but that they
ee forced TO this by the idea most of their clients
si ssse that they must see the gowns they order
Spieaoy set up. Work and materials chea per in
nsIls than In America, and it is not beyond the
means OF humble dressmakers here TO set up a
~ tasteful designs and to display these TO pos
Son sge customers as models This idea has be-
50 bea4 fo thi other IN % n
paper TO show every customer TO design a gown
-of every client subject to changes. this idea
0ohtlnues il may elevate gownmakng' an art
"a pretty afternoon frock Of light blue cloth is
mrnned with Renaissance lace over white satin
me ne lace makes yoke Ia the skirt and small box
.leats, stitched TO the knees hang from this ON
ne blouse the lace figures used to suggest a
,,sslero and TO make panels down the outside OF
ne sleeves and to trim the cuff Between Is a puff
- cream mousseline de sole. The lace bolero on
N's eorsage frames a small yoke of mousse