The Republican journal., 1902-09-25
tages which the ingenuity of man could

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the land side and leaving hardly room
enough for a mule with pack on his
back to turn around at their base.
Though hotter than Cairo, Madras, Aca-
puleo, \ una and other celebrated places
that are said to rival 'hades," the na-
tives speak of its climate as "calido
sano,' meaning warm and healthy. 1t
does not follow that all sections within
unhealthy: and, strange to say, this dirty
sWetering, squalid little port is the hy-
| gienic resort of the people of Caracas
and the highlands beyond, the aristoc-
racy coming down every year for gay
season at the nearby resort, Macuto,
the Newport of South America.
is of LaGuayra though it struggles
along the beach about two miles, gener-
| ally in ii single row of houses, except
/ where its one narrow street sends two
| or three OifshootS a short distance up
the precipitous heights First you must
60 TO the Custom House. for the rescue
OF your luggage. 1t is altogether the
most pretentious building in the town,
a two storied structure i'll the Old Span
iSl style, with walls thick enough to be
both bomb and earthquake proof and
long line of pillars III front to which an
awning is attached, atfurdiug the only
mercitui bit of shade III the whole glar-
ing. roasting, binding place. \ cen
| tral gateway gives admittance to the
paved courtyard. around which are the
stOre-rooms. y grand staircase leads
to the upper story, where the chief of
the custom house, resides with his fam
lily, and where is also a splendid suite
of apartments for the President of
y enezuela, whenever that dignitary
chooses to visit the port. 1t is a busy
place. being the most important custom
house III the country, and large quaint
ty OF merchandise passes through the
hands of its officials. \ tramWay con-
meets it with the wharves. which are
! lined with the warehouses OF French,
English, German and Italian and
American merchants
Next you proceed to the Hotel Nep-
tuno, tie best i'll the town, and find a
large, deep, froWning editice, whose
street entrance leads into the inevita-
bic patio, whence numerous stalrcaSes
run off, i'll the most unaccountable
manner, to various parts of the build
ing. 1t is as picturesque as dirt and
disorder can make it. and As uncom-
Portable as picturesque, with a number
variety and Intensity of smells which
are perpetual establishments to the
most hardened of oltactories.
When first ashore it is best to stay
within doors during the heat of the day.
until properly seasoned" Wandering
about a little i'll the waning sunlight,
YOU soon discover that no glamour of
romance OF tradition can hide the fact
that this principal seaport OF our Sister
Republic is a most diSagIeeabe little
burg. whose few decent buildings and
business houses are far outnumberetl
by the Aen-cOop huts OF the negroes.
who comprise more than two-thirds OF
the population. The ill-paved street
has sidewalks about Two feet wide, dim
ly lighted at night by oil lamps \
river runs through the town on its way
to the sea, crossed by a good many
! bridges, which are the principal orna-
ments OF the place. There is a covered
market house, theater and several
churches; and stretched along the river
bank is a little plaza, planted with
dwarf trees and flower beds, inclosed
within an American IRON fence. In its
centre stands bronze equestrian
statue of Gu2man BIanco, raised upon
a pedestal of white marble 1t is said
to be an excellent likeness of the late
dictator, and was erected by himself in
ls>0, at great eXpense-out OF the
government Golfers. On the sides of
the pedestal are emblematic tablets in
IiNii<'N 'R1it az lilt Apttl WI CIS Sldlltt
enormous bronze candelabIa. Presi-
dent Blanco was a self made man, and
evidently worshipped his maker He
certainly made hay while the sun
Shone and during his days OF absolute
power III Venezuela erected at least
one statue of himself III every CITY,
town, village and hamlet Of the country
and in some cities several counter
felt presentments" in bronze or marble,
all of the costliest description, paid for
at public expense.
More interesting than the common
| features mentioned above are the ruin
ed Spanish forts perched above the city
on rocks that have been many times
stained with blood during the terrific
conflicts of days gone by. When
buccaneers and pirate kings" were
cruising the Spanish main, La Guayra
was favorite fighting place, for gal
Icons came here to load up with treas
ure on their way from Carthagena to
Spain. Upon high bluff overllanging
the town is long, low, rambling castle
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