The daily morning journal and courier., 1902-01-31

I
 cupant Each hammock has it's mat
 tras and pillows, and you may be sur that the novel carry-all is in great de
 mand in this land of laziness-not onl'
 for ladies and invalids, but for grea
 stout, six Hooters of the stronger sex One often sees robust business men re turning to their late dinners luxurious
 ly reclining in hammocks, reading thell
 mail or evening paper as they go, anc 1 leaving trail of smoke behind then
 from their cigars. The native ladies make their calls in hammocks, and
 their shopping in the same manner
 those of the aristocracy having ser
 wants of their own IS bearers. Foreign
 women fight shy of them for a time ex
 cept for mountain travelling, until they
 have learned to roll in and out of them
 with displaying too much hosiery-a
 trick which comes to perfection only with long practice,
 It is pleasant to go out before break
 fast for a stroll in the market place
 Entering the walled and well-shaded
 enclosure through q great stone gate
 way, you see men standing behind tiny
 stalls, and women squatted on the pave
 iiIGIll Dt5luG tllul lllouo oiidiiJW behSrNNe'
 of home-woVen cane, while an army of
 itinerant merchants, male and female,
 clamor to sell you lace work, carvings,
 shalls and corals and monstrosities in
 the line of feather flowers of native
 manufacture. The most noticeab'e thing
 in the market is the abundance of fruit,
 of all zones and seasons; grapes of ev-
 cry kind and color, figs, pomegranites,
 mangoes, apples, peaches, guavas nec-
 tarnes and even trawberries-picked
 to-day in the islands, bushels of them,
 bigger and better than Ca'ifornia's best.
 Inside the market place is a queer in stitution, very highly valued in Funchal, viz.--a circular building which looks like Spanish plaza de toros, but is in reality circus, where men, ir1- stead of bulls are the principal per- formers. There is no theater on the is land but any fifth-rate show that comes along calls itself an American circus" is warmly welcomed end uni versally patronized. Last year one that consisted only of half a dozen indiffer- ent acrobats and three trained bears '.held the herds" for months and reaped an ton'shingly rich harvest-consid- ering it's demerits.
 After our recent experiences in Spain and Africa, the immaculate cleanliness of this place and it's people is the more refreshing. This may be owing to the efficiency of the city government, which consists of a board of seven aldermen and a president, all of whom are elected by popular votes; but. judging from other Portuguese communities which are similarly governed. we are inclined to think that the immaculat7ness of Madeira is largely due to the influence of the wealthy foreigners who fack here in search of health and naturally de- mand it's first essential. cleanliness. The governor of the Madeiras is appointed by the King of Portugal and resides in Funchal in a so-called palace" which is built like a military barrack, with turrets and bastions and mullioned win- dows. The interior is gloomy as pris- 1n-all except the f1owery court yard, which is indeed "a thing of beauty and I joy forever" The governor and his gracious lady are renowned for hospi- tal'ty, which is always extended to re- outable strangers, whether their stay in he city be long or short.
 oIle lHlIS llldL otl ihN5 yod III s'ii1 and of dolce far niente is the perpetual silence. Even in the heart of the mod ,rn city, there is no rattle of wheels, no ouzz of machinery, or hum or whistle If actories. About the only noises you near are the jingling of church bells, he soft vowelled idioma of idlers in the oraca. the barking of inuumerable dogs md the occasional cries of the sledge- 1rivers, which sound like flock of black birds-''ca -ca-ca -cooa. "a para mi boi.
 The streets are paved with small ' harp stones set up on edge, and the 'oadway is usually divided into three narrow sections by two parallel rows of arge cobble stones. There are no side walks. and the pavements are worn so lat and polished so smooth by the con- tant passage of carros (s'eds on wood- n runners) and their grease-b9gs, that t is almost impossible for one in the hoes of civilization to walk about without frequent falls The familiar aying of the village wag on frosty mornings in the rural north: eff you on't c sharp you will B. flat, t,"-applies with painful force in this isle of eternal
  at'' often, in any case, on your first edestrian excursions. That is why the ative ladies prefer the hammock, or do heir social errands on donkey-back When ridng they always carry a fancy { arasol, and each is attended by a bur oquiro, (donkey -boy) who leads the nimal and keeps off flies by flourish 1g horse tail switch. Latterly some f the fair Madeirans have taken to go- le about on foot. They have borrowed rom feminine tourists the fashion of -lphenstocks: and now you may see 1em toddrfng up and down the slippery teeps on their rediculously high-heeled hoes, carrying long canes made of eb- ny with rosettes and streamers of rib ons like a shepherdess crook in opera , ouffe, perhaps wearing a tourists cap { ,ith low-neck satin gown. In pleas / nt contrast to these would-be fashion f ble ladies are the plain, wholesome aasant women, in their voluminous apes of red f1anenI and bodices of blue, : reen or purple laced in front and rear. t he men of this class wear shirts and : 1uave trousers of white linen, with r road suspenders in every hue of the F. linbow; little skull caps of dark blue Y road cloth, prolonged into sort of = til, stuffed and standing up stiffiy from :. le crown, with scarlet 1appets on theS T. m.