Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-12-06

may be used, and the tier effect Is the ap-
proved one. Some of the sleeves look like
several doll skirts put one on top Of the
other. A good example for a coat, and
one less outre than most of them, is plated
at the outside of the arms down to the ell
bow, where 1T hangs out In triangular
baggy effect, which is caught eventually
into the cuff at the hand The cuff is OF
the Henri Deux period inlaid with sec
lions of velvet. At the outside of the arm
where 1t opens, are motifs of passementerie
with dangling ends. under which a fall OF
lace shows a tiny bit at the hand. For an
indoor sleeve one of the ballet variety
would be suitable. First comes a small
band ornament with velvet ribbon, next a
great balloon affair of plated chiffon, then
faring skirt with braid applied down its
sections and at the top of all a plain fitted
jupe stitched round with narrow bands.
Truly are these sleeves fearfully and won
derfully made.
Hats and Gowns in Contrast.
In hats the fad is to wear light ones with
dark gowns, and vice versa. This combi-
nation Is too violent in contrast to be ar
tistic. There is a decided vogue for the
hats formed of haired material shaped
like a toque and worn well over the eyes.
These have little trimming and depend for
their style entirely upon the way they are
draped. The trimming is placed at the
back and consists Of wings, fruit or flow
ers. For afternoon wear the colored vel
vet hat is favored, and the dullest cos
tune looks well with this touch Of bright
ness. With the dark furs, the mauve,
green or scarlet velvet toques are delight
full. For the theater there is a charming
toque In mousseline de sole gathered and
draped with a deeper shade of muslin, the
center Of the crown being covered with a
bunch Of parma vfolets.
The beautiful plumage of the barnyard
fowl has been rescued from unchronicied
doom by it's advent Is the covering Of
whole hats. These hats are a good invest
ment. as they stand any amount of hard
wear and wea Their. OF course they never
will be exclusive, for the department shops
carry them ready to put on the head. A
white plumage toque with biege veil is a.
becoming notion. Whatever the shape of
the hat, fashion demands the preservation
OF a low, fiat outline, with brim project
ing far over the face in front, but raised
slightly to show the hair and bent close
against the hair behind. A type of hat to
which fashion lends her support less hear
tily than to the low, broad toque and the
picture hat is the toreador shape with hard,
upturned brim, while the jaunty marquise
hat has always fingered in her regard.
Fashion, being OF French descent, has an
Unborn instinct for what is most truly chic
and becoming.
Separate Waists.
Before closing the talk upon the allah
sorbing dress question word about sepa-
rate waists will not be amiss. An ingeni-
Gus woman may use her remnants OF hne
lace of an out-of-date ball gown very nicely
in the manufacture of some evening waists.
Remember that transparent yokes are CIV
ing way to high lace and chiffon jabots.
French women are all wearing collars
again. It is much smarter to have the
blouse and skirt match at least in color:
Not withstandng the attractive array Of
colors think unless one Is able to afford
an, extensive wardrobe it is better to re-
main faithful to dark tones. You know
how quickly one tires Of a bright color If
it has to be worn constantly. The woman
with a limited dress allowance is always
well gowned if she selects frock of dark
blue or black In the winter. What is more
charming than a dark blue serge or zibe-
line with fancy collar and cuffs and per-
haps revers of tan-c olored leather embroid-
cred in bright green and gold or some hand
worked stitches on a green velvet ground?
Black serge could be treated in the same
way The wearer of such gowns will al
WAYS be well dressed.
CATHERINE TALBOT.