The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1902-09-27
PARIS MILLINERY.
The Complete Transformation Ac-
complished Through Hat.

The well hated is the happy woman
OF all the possessions, of all the aces
series, of ali the attributes of civiliza-
ton and modern art in adjusting attire
for any occasion, there is nothing so in
teresting as the woman's hat. What
a Transforming influence the hat has
What woman of intelligence does not
understand this! The complete trans.
formation, even the inspiration of the
woman herself, is easily accounted fol
and accomplished by change of hat
and how they love them.
No possession, however costly, nc
jewelry, however brilliant and magnii-
cent, could compensate a womna if she
knew that her hat was bad. OF course
there is every reason to understand
this thing thoroughly. Hats are art
when considered from the standpoint
of particularly satisfying the demands
of certain faces and certain figures
The proper hat with the proper cos
tune constitute a unity and harmony
which, after all, is extremely desirable
from every standpoint. The rich, the
beautiful. the magnificent hat is not
necessarily so becoming or so fit as the
well considered and well proportional
headwear selected by the woman of
taste or created by the artist milliner.
In millinery it is how and not what.
1t is the flare, the depth of crown, the
width of brim, and turn and twist of
the fabric, the shape itself more than
the expense of the material that par
ticularly emphasizes the good hat or
shows a bad contrivance.
The beauty of the right thing is that
st is the well considered thing. Don't
think for a moment that fashion is an
aimless, frivolous creature that ordains
high crowns or brims, improper and
untasteful contrivances. Dress is the
epitome of artistic thought and a well
balanced disposition. The woman with
out taste enough or disposition enough
to understand her relation to her
friends and the world ignores attire,
and prides herself as being superior
She is really inferior. She hesitates
and refrains from giving pleasure by
making herself of pleasing personality
However, let us forget for moment
the psychological or sociological posi-
ton of the hat, and treat il from its
style standpoint of this season. A
round velvet turban, of brilliant green
panne with q mounted rooster head in
brilliant color with natural neck fea-
theirs, is the striking novelty of the
season. Rooster heads are not going to
be s. great feature with the great ma
jority. 1t is only a fancy and a pass
ing fancy at that, but the shape of the
hat is good, and the other little tricon
of taffeta silk with it's two pompons
and velvet edged brim is a practical
and tasteful form suited to great va
riety of wear and undoubtedly pleas
ing, neat and tasteful
The new picture hat is the shovel
brim, which is perfectly square in
front, is draped Spanish scarf. which
trails over the shoulder artistically and
beautifully. Its contrast in the same
mode is the hat of shirred satin with its
long ostrich plume tending directly for
ward and its double strand of cut beads
pendant from the back Now. remem-
Der this well, that millinery is the lead
ing idea in the construction of style.
You have materials in millinery fully
one year before they appear in cos
tunes. Cut jet beads are going to be
the most prominent ornament in fash
ion of year hence. This will mean a
great deal to the woman who has a
store of such things laid up for the
rainy day which comes once every sew
en- years, for they do say that style re-
wolves once in seven years.
Speaking of Spanish hats. there is
madam Of the velvet and lace gown.
also lace draped, but the shape is
round, dropping in the back and turned
up on one side, Revealing an undertrim-
ming Of white lace rosettes
The big black hat and the big white
hat are invariably strong favorites
with the sex. There is a big white hat
with a new crown, which is oblong in
shape and the greater length extend
ing across the hat The hat is of panne
velvet onH fO1dad A.
The great ostrich plume is a feature of
such wear These fantastic forms are
still neat and practical. They are novel
but have their origin in the historical
headwear of the knighthood period of |
past ages. Generally mems wear is |
paraphrased in women's attire of to- |
day, but, as we are speaking of hats, |
1t will be noted that the cavaliere hat |
which is so much the style, was a mans |
hat, and not a women's hat Here we |
have the cavaliere hat with its rough. |
soft wool brim, its underbrim trimming |
OF black ostrich, and the low crown in |
this instance made of white lace. This |
is clearly an adaptation from the forms |
of the period of D'Artagnan and the |
other heroes of the swash- buckling |
period.
BY the adaptation of new materials. |
new forms and new modifica tons are |
brought the beauties of the past. The
tur capot is a shape that had its origin
In the early fifteenth century, but at
tached to it are the clusters of white
ana purple grapes and the green and /
white foliage. This is the characteristic |
point Of the French taste. Mere acct
uents suggest to them the many neces-
Bary combinations of artistic forms in
the production Of beautiful attire
There is hat of just foliage and fur.
yet no one with good taste could pos
sibly find fault with tia contradiction
ana yet an attractive one. A more
natural form of millinery construction
one that lacks the striking point, and
yet is peculiarly beautiful is the hat
Of new gray and black and white frisse
braid with black and white chenille |
combination. The hat is a round
broad turbanesque form, and around its
brim is brought a breast of paradise |
with the beautiful plumage trailing
below it T he bow below is of black
MORE ribbon.
The great and striking point of the
seasons style is in felt shapes, the
beaver hat, and the rough Scotch brim |
affafr. There are so many forms of
wear necessary in our modern exist
ence, so many different occasions to be
for, so many different classes
Of business, sport, travel, visiting.
driving, afternoon, evening and a world
Oh other things which we do not recall,
mat new hat is almost necessary for
each particular kind of wear. Madam
understands thoroughly that nothing so
changes her appearance as different
nat The same gown, the same coat,
ana different hat will transform a
street attire into an evening attire.
ne black gloves changed to white, an
IRISH point or imitation Irish point
collar and you have almost a reception
gown.
The hat, after all, is the chief point
L is that which is nearest the FACET