Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-04-19

away upon Russia, and IL would be long be-
fore the bear would, with hostile intent, put
her big white paw on Swedish soil. / think
he was right.
A Glorious Ride.
That was indeed memorable sleigh ride
still as summer morning in the tropics;
sparkling as world of diamonds, the snow
and frost hanging thick on every branch
and twig of every tree. and clarifying the
vast white landscape; the iron mountains
huiking large on the vision in almost every
direction, but covered now, of course from
top to bottom with winters white quilt,
which seemed even TO be tucked in around
the edges to keep them warm. Did We find
the Laps? Yes, but to describe them in
their arctic sQualor and picturesque power
" Is too long an undertaking for the linn
Its or this article, and We must leave Gelli-
ware and hurry southwark again for en-
gagements in Norways capital-Christiania
The two days railway journey to Chris
tlanla from the arctic circle is very much
IKE the delightful journey northward:
through glorious forests of snow-covered
trees, over boundless plains. of forest en-
crusted and sparkling from million fas-
Gets of temporary diamonds: under bright
though low-rising sun, which remains above
the horizon for at least seven hours in
February and gives US two hours more of
after he sets.
AT Bracke. which is about thirty hours
from Gellivare, We spent the night, and
the next morning took the train for Stor-
lieu, which Is the last town on the Swedish
frontier. Here We changed cars taking
the Norwegian state railway, narrow
gauge affair which is much inferior to the
Swedish line.
Storlieu and vicinity at least I'm the vear
of grace 1902, was probably the snowiest
place In the world. 1t is on the great
height of land that divides Sweden from
Norway. The damp winds from the Allan
n 70 -
tains of rock and earth; fences and hedges
are out of sight; telegraph poles are hurled
up to their waists and the smaller houses
peer above the snow, with only g chimney
or roof tree or a single window. like a
Cycops, looking above the snow.
Impressive Scenery.
The scenery is grand and imposing and
on much more lofty and magnificent
scale than in northern Sweden. The train
seems to be always on the edge OF preci-
pice, often with a lovely ford directly be-
low, and a lofty mountain directly over
head.
Occasionally white ptarmigan or arctic
grouse whirrs away from the passing train
or a white hare leaps through the bushes.
or pair of black game or capercailie the
Scandinavian wild turkey, starts up, but
for the most part these somber woods at
this time of year are singularly destitute
Of animal life
We reach Frendhjem. the largest city of
the north, long after dark. 1t is a sur
prisng town to be found near the confines
Of the arctic zone. Here is a city in lati-
tude 63 degrees north, with the climate of
Washington. To be sure there is more
snow than in Washington, but l doubt If
the mercury ever falls so low 1t some
tines does in our capital city, which is
nearly 1000 miles south of Norway's north
ern metropolis. A familiar sight is TrOndh-
jem in summer, to travellers bound for the
North Cape, and the midnight sun, but
rare sight in winter time to any but Nor
wegians.
Skiing and Coasting.
And yet 1t has its rare and undsputed
charms from November to March; the
sleighing, the coasting, and, above all, the
skiing, which every day takes hundreds
of Norwegian lads and lasses to the hills
back of the town with their long skis
over their shoulders, for a swift and thrill
ing ride on these coaster snowshoes. Even
the electric street cars are provided with
an extra iron rail before and behind, for
the accommodation of these eight-foot skis,
which could not otherwise well be carried.
Christiania, some 300 miles south Of
Trondhjem, is a lovely city in winter, as In
summer. In fact, L am not certain that
the attractions in February are not as
great in June.
To be sure. being on the Atlantic coast,
it does not rejoice in so much dry, cold,
sparkling weather as Stockholm, or the
north of Sweden, but it has claims all it's
own. Nowhere are the winter sports more
in evidence, and the ski is monarch of all
of them. Christiania has also some fine
tourist hotels "sanitoria," they call Them
which Stockholm cannot boast, and which
in winter or summer make stay in the
capital of Norway pleasure and even a
luxury for those who can afford it.
OF these sanitoriums, the Holmekollen is
easily reached by trolley line from Chris
tiania, and affords an almost unparalleled
view of the city and harbor, of ford and
mountain; at this time of year all glorifed
and illumined by the sun on the spotless
snow.
chants and great commercial enterprises,
but a city with a great university and a
vast royal palace with Libraries and insti-
tutes of the largest scientific value.
They Love Us, Too.
The opinion which citizens Of such a
royal metropolis cherish toward ones own
country is worth knowing. 1 took occasion
to inquire of more than one or two, and all
told me that the regard for America and
Americans was most cordial and growing
ever more warm and hearty every year.
Chicago is the second, II not the first, Nor
wegian city In the world. Minneapolis and
St. Paul are close thirds" and the hun
dreds of thousands of loyal Norwegians,
for the most part, send back glowing re-
ports of their adopted country. Especially
is President Roosevelt popular in this
northern peninsula.
AS little incident, showing the Presi-
dents popularity. / may mention that 1
was dining with Rev. Dean Hall, the court
preacher of Norway, and several other
clergymen and well-known people, when l
happened to remark that l had a letter OF
Introduction from the President, which l
handed to DR.. Hail. At once he rose from
his chair with courtly dignity, called upon
all the company to rise while he read the
letter, which they did. Then he took me
warmly by the hand congratulated me on
having such noble President, and asked
me to convey to him the profound respects