Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-11-29

with the ends This new detail was lately
displayed in pale gray blonde net, ma
terial which also formed the outside trim
ming of the gray felt hat.
The Smartest Things.
Unquestionably the smartest neck adorn-
mentS of the season are of fur, but since
these now must lie very fiat the rough i'm
itation furs are not always good purchases
Better every time a minute neck piece in
real skin than three yards of boa in imi-
tation; and if this cannot be managed, get
the imitation in as small quantities as pos
sible.
A neat little neck scarf in an unclasSfied
pelt is short. flat piece, dividing at the
ends into two tails. Reddish-brown, in
very becoming shade, is the color of this,
and 81 will buy it. Longer neck scarfs, in
black bear, in the very fiat shapes can also
be had at reasonable prices.
a fad with all large collars is to wear
them loosely about the shoulders Some
times, indeed, they are disposed in man
ner to suggest the ancient period when wo-
wore their scarf and mantilla ends
Topped over the arms. The effect is charm
ing when the shoulder piece is in pelerine
shape, in which quaint cape style there are
many bewitching effects in lace and chiffon.
In Perfect Taste.
Turning from these all-absorbing details
to entire costumes, there was a costume
seen the other day on fashionable street
which in charming originality was perfect.
Nothing could have been simpler than its
materials, and nothing could have been
more unpretentious than the model of the
gown whose delicate attractiveness did not
entirely ignore conventional ethics.
Deep plum cloth with NARROW ribbon vel
vet in the same shade made up this master
piece, with glimpses through a barred
treatment of the new brownish-y yellow lace.
IL
ing scallop at the sides of an over-drapery.
which fell over plain apron. The bodice
was of the lace covered by a round Elton
of the cloth, made rich with a lace collar
and elaborate. puffed sleeves.
A novel band of the transparent barring
over the lace also showed on the sleeves,
the tops OF which were ornamented by
cap effect made by the collar. Shoulder
straps of the velvet ribbon seemed to sup
port the little Elton at this point and the
fronts We're held together by three tie
strings which were attached to the gar
ment by amethyst buttons.
With this went a hat which one might
describe as ''squashy" In shape. A soft
puff of plum velvet with blackish shading
shaped a brim rolling slightly away from
the face at each side. The low, broad
crown and the fall at the back were made
of satin grape leaves in vivid shade of
green.
Individuality Grows.
Taking this unusual style as one example
of the growing taste for individuality 1t is
quite evident to the student of dress that
the best costumed women think OUT their
own clothes.
The time has passel when the dress
maker and the milliner may command
everything, and, If the woman of elegant
pretension has any aptitude for dress, she
can cultivate the gift to the highest point.
1t should be the duty of the tasteful to
set the fashions and not to follow them,
even if the venture may at times require a
little courage.
II am so poor" said clever New York
girl recently, that I have to make my own
styles" So from materials that the shops
mark down as old-fashioned she sometimes
compounds the bewitching creations
A handkerchief bodice that she wears
with a trained skirt in mauve cloth Is
worthy of the best French fingers. This,
with the aid of a sewing woman at 81 80 a
day, was cOncocted from three of the silk
handkerChefs with Persian colorings that
were fashionable for waists several seasons
ago. Violet, apple green and a rich golden
brown are the predOminating colors and
the old-fashloned look of the stuff Is hidden
by an outlining in black bebe velvet. Fol-
lowing a very handsome scrolling, a border
of this material runs completely around the
shoulders, with V point back and front.
This border is repeated in a band around
the sleeves. The yoke of the waist is made
of the violet borders of the handkerchiefs
laid in unstitched tucks. A band of the
wide sleeves, which fall short over puffs
of cream lace. There is also a narrow
tucked vest of this lace which is set off at
the throat by a cocky little cravat of the
silk. MARY DEAN