davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1902-10-06

with an inverted pait and with every
seam ostentatiously strapped. The
basqued jacket representing all that is
recent in fashion. below the waist had
pointed flaps like the tasses on the ar
NOR of a knight Of the fourteenth or
fifteenth century. The narrow leather
belt matched the band upon the skirt.
Three bone buttons fastened the blouse
in the center. Below the revers "A yoke
was outlined with strappings. and a
patch pocket, also strapped, afforded a
resting place for the ever useful hand
kerchief The sleeves were ordinary
ones, neither very loose nor yet very
fun.
To me II seemed odd that a scholarly
woman's first preparation for spend
ing half a dozen months among semi
barbarians should be the selection Of
a smart costume. but l suppose that is
the eternal feminine OF the case.
such a gown" said Mime. Coralie,
'Is most excellent for the traveller. for
the pedestrian or for the sportswoman.
| advised the great lady tourist that
tweed i'm the fashionable black and
white check would be more serviceable
than covert cloth. but she would not
The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1902-10-06

Very smart are some of the glace
models which are daily coming over
from Paris. Many of them are trimmed
with a charming applique work in vel
vet, which gives the necessary touch
Of soldity to the simple taffeta frock
Taffeta in the new shade of green, with
a large collar of Irish crochet made I'm
simple Russian blouse fashion. with a
wide belt, forms "A ravishing toilet
Some of these taffetas are decorated
with little silk cords-that lis to say, the
plain skirt laces down the front with
silk cords-finished with fancy pom
pons of silk, the bodice, of course. being
treated in a like manner.
The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1902-10-06

~ H." sighs the ambitious host.
ess-"oh for something new
I've given dinners and dances
and pink teas till the thought
of them is a WEAKNESS. Yet 1
must entertain. one can't accept nos
pitalities without returning them.
All of which is very true, and Tor the
benefit Of those ladies who would shine
socially let me suggest that a lodge OF
wigwam party will, If properly man
aged. be an unqualified success.
Send out invitations TO as many per-
SONS as the house will comfortably ac-
comnnodate Overcrowding is the mis-
take of most American entertainers.
Use some Judgment i'm preparing the
list of names, for the affair partakes SO
largely of the nature of frolic that
ones more serious acquaintances may
not appreciate il. Invitations shoulu
indicate that the guests are expected
10 wear Indian garb. There are In MS
tory many famous warriors whom the
men may represent Pocahontas was
about the only Indian <oman OF any
note. so few Of the women Will be able
10 appear i'm character. The dress OF
tbe different tribes and their methods
of coloring the face vary, so that there
IS no danger OF the guests looking mo-
notonousIy alike when they are gather
cd together in the hostess presence. A
nrize should be awarded for the best
Characterization of a historic Indian.
The room reserved for dancing should
ne furnished to look like an Indian
lodge. Navajo blankets, strands OF
beads. wampum pipes. bows and ar
rows. tomahawks, Indian headdresses,
Vay baskets and dainty bits of pottery
are all useful i'm decorating the walls.
Low couches TO take the place of chairs
should be draped with the skins OF wild
animals. Vines and green boughs may
be used to cover the wall paper. A
background of foliage brings out the
beauty of the barbaric ornaments more
effectively than anything else.
II the evening Is to be devoted to ma
tive dances. a list of those TO be given
should be prepared I'm advance. When
nm acceptance is received from a guest.
his or her name should be put down for
n particular set. IL a cotillon Is TO be
given. some experienced leader OF the
dance should be consulted In regard "a
the figures The favors should be little
tomahawks. bows and arrows. tiny
ouivers. Indian dolls. beaded articles.
Indian baskets. miniature snowshoes,
small canoes. moccasins. paddles, wam-
pun belts. eagles feathers, ears OF
corn gilded and made into key racks or
Thermometers and cushions OF buckskin
or chamois ornamented with pictures
of Indian life.
III ordinary round or square dances
take the place of the german. Indian
ones should be performed at intervals
during the evening. Young men asked
The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1902-10-06

What has become OF the position
coats?" ] questioned, for nothing had
been said about them.
With US still. madame. but no lon-
ger novel They are worn by women
who are too stout 10 look well in the
basqued style. Emilie!" she called.
And again the ever watchful assist
ant rushed In. this time with a costume
OF chestnut brown cloth.
Mime. Coralie shook IL out daintily be-
fore she slipped IL over the lay figure
Then she stood aside and smiled in
pleased anticipation of my praises.
The coat was really novel. The
basque instead OF being cut I'm the usu-
al shape OF a Japanese panel curved
gracefully, and the edges were finished
with line Of white taffeta cording.
The effect was quite military. and i
casually mentioned this fact to the mo-
diste.
True" she assented. You will see
many adaptations OF military dress in
the costumes of the coming season"
The skirt was wonderfully ornate.
/ There were perpendicular box plaits
/ each neatly stitched and loosely adjust
/ ed over rows OF tiny horizontal tucks
An inverted quadruple box plait, fiat at
| the waist and spreading below. gave
fullness to the back. This is an idea bor-
rowed from Paquin, who is the great
authority on skirts. Inverted box plaits
strapped down above and faring open
below are 10 be found on many of the
latest models. Side plaits and narrow
open box plaits are also featured by
7 sUT1F or me great couturieres. Yoked
skirts are again with us. do not like
any effect which chops the figure into
sections. Neither is Mime. Coralie very
enthusiastic about the latter innova-
| ton.
For the thin woman who has a pret-
ty waist and well shaped hips the yoked
skirt is very good. but for one noticea-
bly, stout c'est impossible" she said
Yet with that blind fatality with
which women seize upon the unbecom.
ing, before the winter is over you ma,
expect to see three-fourths OF the stou
ladies of your acquaintance compla.
Gently wearing yoked skirts.
CATHERINE TALBOT.
The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1902-10-06
For Dressy Wear.

Although II has been cold. damp and
cheerless the greater part of the sea-
son. yet the feather boa has not be-
come popular. and the cape ruffie Is
quite indispensable to a smart toilet.
The feather boas with petal tips are
full and becoming and also very mex
pensive. but the smart woman will
have none of them.
The net and lace skirts provided by
the chief drapery houses are invaluable.
as with one day and one evening blouse
and some colored accessories much va
ration may be obtained The bolero OF
crepe de chine in black or white. ap-
plique with lace, is also useful to
wear over net and chiffon slips, and a
bolero of black crepe de chine incrusted
with transparent ecru lace, with tucked
skirt of the black Grape. Is always
smart.
The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1902-10-06
N INDIAN LODGE PARTY AS GIVEN BY AMATEUR RED MEN

for the feet. wig of black hair and a
crown of feathers for the head and a
wampum belt for the waist. A CULVER
filled with arrows may be slung over
one shoulder. while the bow is either
hung beside IL or carried in the hand
tomahawk may be held in the hand
or tucked underneath the belt, together
with the scalping knife.
OF course a smoking room should be
set aside for the chiefs and braves.
over the doorway of this may hang a
streamer bearing the words Smoke the
Calumet Here Together" An abun-
dance of tobacco and cigars should be
provided. together with long Indian
pipes. The latter are To be retained as
souvenirs by the smokers.
Lemonade with macaroons. bouillon.
tea and coffee, with sandwiches. should
be served during the entire evening
from a wigwam erected in one corner
OF the reception room. A door from the
buffers pantry. the kitchen or the din
ing room must open into one side of the
tent so that a servant can hand the hot
drinks to the attendant i'm the wigwam
without coming in contact with the
company.
a substantial supper should be served
late in the dining room. For the center
of the table miniature birch bark ca
noe filled with ferns or handsome grass.
es is an appropriate decoration. one OF
the richly colored pieces OF Indian pot
terry containing flowers or low In
dian basket overflowing with towering
! plants is equally suitable.
| Hot oysters, boned turkey or chicken,
salmon, game pates. lobster salad, ices
and fruits make up a sufficiently varied
bill of fare. Suitable souvenirs are bon
bons i'm Indian baskets or in boxes
shaped like canoes, wigwams or toma-
hawks. The Indian names of the vi
ands may be given on the menus in
stead o: the English ones. a small ar
row shoulc be thrust through each
card. Every detail which Will make the
entertainment like a real Indian cele-
bration will add to the fun.
ETHEL j. MOXFIELD.
The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1902-10-06

OF the hands OF the filter and draped IL
over a wooden figure.
lis IL not recherche?" she twittered.
Quite the newest bodice, and those
wide plaits spreading from the waist 10
the shoulders will permit me TO give
that narrow chest of yours at least the
appearance OF robustness"
Flattering. truly!
And observe the ceinture" contin-
ued the enthusiast. 1T is absolutely
new, unique"
I critically inspected the space out
lined by madame's finger. Strlctly
speaking. there was no ceinture. Inc
lower part OF the bodice was merely
nodded TO the figure. two groups or mar
row tucks on the front and two at the
sides taking the place of darts. on the
skirt were other tucks. but they were
not in a line with the groups upon the
waist. ! promptly called Coralie's at
tention to this fact. and she raised her
hands in panied protest.
Mime Catherine. ii is an idea tres
chic. / would have them placed so. let
me tell you"
The sleeves seemed awkward after the
modest ones to which we have been ac-
customed. They were what in my juve-
nile days / should have called three
story sleeves" First, above the wrist
was a cuff of all over lace applied on
white silk The second part of the
sleeve consisted of a puff OF handsome
fiowered velvet in white, pale green and
Wedgwood blue. That fabric, you
know. will be all the rage this winter,
and every smart gown must have a
touch of il somewhere. Above the vel
vet and terminating at the elbow in a
reyers cuff again appeared wolfe. A
Matted vest of white chiffon with side
friu of lace filled In the front of the
waist. Wedgwood blue velvet was used
for the high collar which surmounted
the green voile
The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1902-10-06

like walnut juice. A supply OF the
stain should be placed in the dressing
rooms. that those guests who have not
previously thought Of coloring the skin
may use II II so inclined. Nonpoisonous
colors should also be left on the dress
ing table for many OF the braves viii
wish 10 touch up their war paint dur
ing the evening.
Dresses may be provided by the local
CostumeTs OF the home dTessmaKer
Even II they must be made for the oc-
casion. their simplicity is an advantage
for the designs will neither cost very
much nor confuse the seamstress.
The men should wear imitation buck
skin trousers. over which falls a loose
buckskin shirt. a blanket is required
for the shoulders. a pair of moccasins
The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1902-10-06

l f the housekeeper will keep supply
of stock on hand. the cooks daily
labors will be much lessened, for
the broth may be made the basis
for any soup, materials being added ac-
cording to the Kind required. The stock
is extracted from fresh flesh and mar
row bones combined in the proportion
of one pound OF the former 10 iwo
ounces OF the latter. Allowing one
quart of water to pound OF the solid
material, boil the meat on good fire.
When the water bubbles. skim the
broth, and after this let IL simmer on
the back Of the stove for about FIVE
hours Season and strain into stone
vessel store the liquid where IL can be
kept cool, and II will last for several
days. In order that all the grease may
be removed the stock should be pre-
pared day before IL Is needed.
The following are recipes for simple
soups made with stock:
Cream Of Barley Soup. Wash a tea
cupful of barley and put IL into a sauce
pan with two quarts of chicken stock.
Add a chopped onion, a small piece of
mace and piece of cinnamon stick.
Let all simmer very gently for three
hours Strain and rub the ingredients
through a sieve. Return the stock to
the saucepan. adding one ounce of but
ter. Beat two yolks OF eggs with half a
pint of milk. Remove the pan from the
fire. strain the milk and eggs into the
soup. Add pepper and salt.
Vegetable Soup.-Take two ounces Of
butter. breakfast cup full each OF
shelled peas and chopped carrots and
turnips. one teacupful each Of chopped
onions and rice. four medium sized to-
matoes, one tablespoonful OF chopped
parsley three-quarters of pint OF
stock and salt and pepper. Melt the
butter in a saucepan. add the carrots.
turnips, onions and sliced tomatoes.
stir over the fire for Ave minutes.
Then add the stock. which must be
boiling. Wash and add the rice. When
all the vegetables are tender. rub them
through hair or wire sieve. Reboil.
season well. Add cooked peas and
parsley Serve In hot tureen with
croutons OF bread.
The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1902-10-06

dance. the rain dance. the war dance.
the snake dance and the medicine dance
are picturesque and easily performed.
SO many accounts Of Indian festivities
have been written that they are famil-
lar 10 almost every one. Those who re-
auire information about the various de-
tails can obtain IL from books at any
library. Schoolcraft is one of the best
authorities TO consult.
The green corn dance Is always given
during autumn. II is the Indians har-
vest home celebration. This festival
alone Is interesting enough TO form the
theme OF an evenings entertainment.
In IL the Indians give thanks TO the
sun. moon. stars and all the elements
that. according to their belief. help 90
ripen the maize. IL Is still enjoyed each
year by the Seneca Indians. who live
on reservations In western New York.
One pretty feature OF the corn revcl.
which is really a series OF dances. Is the
part in which thanks are given to the
sun. Three pretty Indian girls. repre-
The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1902-10-06

After inspecting the garment from
every point of the compass madame IN
sisted that / should try ii on my own
faulty figure.
"Admirable!" she commented as 1
meekly swung around in obedience TO
orders / vowed then that would take
the gown.
Later / was permitted to see my own
reflection i'm the cheval glass and no.
ticed at once that l looked like pic
ture out of a history book. At first
could not fit the costume into the prop
er century, but presently 1T flashed upon
me that / was masquerading in the
garments of Catherine de Medlci.
have seen portrait of the queen wear
ing just such long. stiff. fiat bodice
made very tight below and rounded at
the waist / mentioned the fact TO
Mime. Coralie, and she nodded.
May be- but it is the mode. All bod
ices of outdoor gowns are being cut just
so by me- 1t is the newest fashion"
And the skirt has lost it's flare"
declared. for Coralie loved the fiaring
draperies with a devotion beautiful TO
behold. 1t surprised me that she should
be one OF the first 10 abandon them.
"It is true" she soberly admitted.
straight skirts must come in again.
Likewise we must cease to use the vo-
liant. 1t is passe."
This was mournful outlook, and
asked what would take the place OF the
flounce.
Bands, plaits. embroideries." she an
swered. Il do not like the new fashion
so we'll as the old one. This skirt does
not seem graceful. but IL will doubtless
please those fastidious ladies who have
long complained that shaped draperies
indiscreetly reveal the outlines of their
forms"
/ WINGED for I myself was one of the
complainants having no illusions in re-
gard to the elegance of my figure, and /
The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1902-10-06
what L. Being Worn.

A great deal OF gray is worn, but
chiefly in very pale tints. and that sill
very shade with pinkish tone is quite
the most popular OF all Bright color
ings are not much worn. and no doubt
the continued wearing of black and
white for so long a period has induced
distaste for vivid colors. All the
blues. heliotropes and pinks are soft
and delicate. and the misty pastel tones
are much affected.
Black lace is a good deal worn. even
on light co,ored gowns, and the tucked
taffeta costume worn by the smart ma
tron is much inserted and adorned with
black lace set a jour and worn over o
white or heliotrope slip.
The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1902-10-06

have 1t. The jacket? Oui, madame.
they are all basqued-at least the ultra
chic ones are so. We have them some
times like those in the model. again we
make them with double or triple flaps.
They are also straight. pointed or
rounded. to suit the taste of the wearer.
For a tall. thin woman like yourself
should advise the triple basqued coat"
] changed the subject To sleeves.
"Oh. yes they are larger, more elabo-
rate, certainement. madame. l should
not now dream of countenancing the
straight sleeve; but ii is different for
one who goes on a mission into the viii.
derness. trust / know my art so we'll
that / shall never fail TO adapt my
costumes to the circumstances"
The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1902-10-06

to take part in these need no rehearsal.
A few minutes instruction is quite
enough for anybody. as the red mems
method OF dancing is simple. Each
brave leaps about, keeping time to the
humping of rattles which companions
beat upon the ground. The Indian i'm
struments are made of turtle shell and
have wooden handles. The musicians
WELD them In harmony and in accord
ance with the signals of one of their
number designated the leader.
The green corn dance, the ghost
The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1902-10-06

naturally preferred 10 conceal rather
than to reveal it's imperfections.
II must tell you" Coralie went on.
still apropos OF skirts. the modistes
this season and during the winter will
adopt no particular standard in CUT
ting. The number OF cores. breadths
and the width will depend on personal
preference. The correct walking skirt
must just clear the ground. Stitched.
side and box plaits are TO be used In va
rious ways. on some perfectly plain
models strappings will appear. Light
weight tweeds, cheviots. covert cloths.
The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1902-10-06

To remove pitch and tar stains rub
lard on the stain and let IL stand for a
few hours Sponge with spirits Of tur-
pentine until the stain Is removed. 10
the color OF the fabric should be
changed. sponge II with chloroform.
and the color will be- restored.
The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1902-10-06

bodice is gauged at the bust line. and
there is a vest of soft silk made with
yoke of tucks and lace.
Wide lace is also arranged as coll
lar. and the closely shaped upper por-
ton of the sleeve is entirely tucked. and
the full lower part is set into deep
cuff. The hat is in capeline form. the
back brought down close and fiat. the
front raised with bandeau of velvet
and pink roses. Folds of pale blue chif-
fon encircle the crown. and there are
pink roses on the left side.
The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1902-10-06

senting the guardians of the corn. are
placed in the center of a ring OF
braves. After circling about the maid
ems. the dancers close the exhibition by
shooting three arrows at the sun. "A
golden disk hung from n chandelier
makes good mimic sun for the draw
ing room. A prize should be given to
the brave who hits il squarely with
one of his toy arrows.
The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1902-10-06

man IL that dance is to be given. IL
there is a physician among the COM
.pany, il will add to the amusement to
have him take the part of the Indian
healer.
AS the entertainment is a costume
one. the faces of the company will need
some attention If they desire to look
their parts. Faces and arms should be
darkened with some harmless cosmetic,
The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1902-10-06

scraped from the ear and baked inside
of three layers of cornhusks bound to-
gether with strips of slippery elm bark.
Succotash cooked with potatoes is an
other Indian dish. Wedding cake must
be presented TO every guest who has
been married during the year. This is
a solemn feature of the genuine Indian
corn dance.
The papier mache snakes sold in the
The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1902-10-06

should | encounter but my mo-
diste, Mime. Coralie. When still half
block away. she waved her daintily
gloved hand i'm salutation, and as i came
within haiiing distance exclaimed de-
lightedly. "Ah. cherie / have just the
design for you. Ii is for your figure,
your style, tout parfait!
There is in this statement nothing
nattering TO me, for Coralie makes no
secret OF her despair over my physical
imperfections. / am. according to her
judgment, a thick WASTED. narrow
chested stoop shouldered. slabsided,
fiat hipped. loose jointed American, and
what more disparaging could a critic
say? She declares that the only re-
deeming good quality is my height.
which is slightly above the average
Therefore you will understand why when
Coralie tells me that she has gown
which lust suits me" / merely glow
with curiosity to test the deceptive pos
sihilities OF her latest masterpiece.
The morning after the meeting i went
TO Coralie's atelier, where / found her
genial and voluble as usual.
"Ah, mon annie. IL Is good to see you"
was her greeting. Come into my sa-
lon, and win show you costume ex-
quiste." Then in an aside TO one of the
filters: Haste. Emile! The new green
voiei"
Emile returned with costume whose
combination Of blue and green fabrics
was sufficient evidence that II is quite
up 10 date. The robe was still unfin-
ished-"basted together" an American
dressmaker would say. Thus construct
ed. when gown is sold alterations
may be made without the trouble or
ripping tightly stitched seams.
Mime. Coralie whipped the dress out
The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1902-10-06

To rcnovate Grape lay II on a table
and cover IL with a damp cloth. Then
pass q hot iron over the cloth as closely
as YOU can without actually touching II.
This treatment will freshen up the
Grape most beautifully. for the steam
will cause IL TO wrinkle just as 1t does
when new.
The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1902-10-06

corded velvet. rough finished and boucle
goods are the fabrics most suitable for
simple pedestrian costumes. a short
jacket worn over blouse of thin cloth
or of silk is part of the chic walking
toilet"
What sort OF jackets will modistes
permit us TO wear this autumn" 1 flip
PANTY queried.
Coralie called, Emile. the gray COW
ert cloth"
The waiting woman appeared prompt
ly as the genii in attendance on Alad-
dn's lamp. She carried a partly COM
pleted mannish looking costume which
/ was told was being fashioned for a
femme savant," one OF those globe
trotting women who are content in any
country but their own. With the in
tention of wearing the dress when PEN
etrating the Businesses of the Urals or
the Caucasus. the lady had asked for
something which should be both neat
and comfortable. Coralie gave her both
qualities and added to them smartness
The skirt terminated a trihe below the
ankle and was finished with a band of
wash leather. Seven parallel rows of
stitching were seen just above that
decoration. The skirt chanced TO be a
five gored one. provided in the back