The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-11-22
THE HOLIDAY FASHIONS
WIDE CHOICE POSSIBLE, But sE-
LECTION SHOULD BE CAREFUL.
Wealthy Women Wear Many Co.'S
comes Need Not Care to Copy.
Special to the Indianapolis Journal.

soon be with us. THANKSGIVING past and
gone, the greatest of all feasts looms up in
close proximity, and there is scarcely time
TO realize all that one wishes to do before
the day has come the merry. happy bells
are pealing forth and all Christendom has
need Of holiday attire. Dinners dances.
house parties, all the forms of entertain
ment known to an advanced civilization,
are being planned. and what to wear. how
to provide for the various occasions be-
comes question of pressing import. To
be perfectly and appropriately dressed is
essential to self-resDect and to comfort.
Luxury and extravaganza may be dispensed
with. Tasteful toilets are among the neces-
stiles of the well-bred woman and are
amply worthy of consideration. 1t was a
wise mother who babe her young daughter
give all the time and thought necessary to
making a perfect toilet, to consider well
and TO let her mirror declare a satisfactory
result before leaving her dressing room
then TO forget all about 1t. The sense of
being well and becomingly dressed is far
from vanity. 1t means a comfortable con-
seriousness Of well-being. 1t contributes to
ones ease and pleasure. That unfortunate
condition Of self-contemplation, which is
so often deplored as vanity, is. in reality.
far more likely to result from inappropriate
gowns. hats that are unbecoming and out
of place than from such consideration of
self as brings about result that needs no
further contemplation.
This season there is ample, even more
than ample opportunity for choice. Yet,
while that is true, certain tendencies APP
pear on every side and certain faults greet
af
Tor postilions. They appear upon fancy
belts. they make parts of evening waists,
they are worn at all hours OF the day. AS
a result some very ludicrous conditions
arise. Short blouse coats are general among
young girls. AS / walk the streets L am
often led to wonder If hand mirrors are
out OF date. Again and again the position
which belongs TO the waist, is allowed to
hang below the blouse, with a most absurd
result AS part of the bodice 1t is smart;
seen below the coat it is ugly and dowdy.
Again, snug fitting skirts are the rule long
waists, slender hips sought. BY some
curious law of selection the tallest, thinnest
women wear the most exaggerated gowns.
bean pole possesses no grace. woman
who suggests. having been elongated by
some artificial process is not beautiful. II
mirrors of full length and those giving
side and back views were used such mis-
takes would less frequently occur. The ex-
tremely tight skirts look we'll only on the
the over-siender TO be really well sowned d
woman must study her own figure, her
own needs. The time when fashion was an
autocrat. demanding one style of gown for
all alike, belongs to the past. 1t is worse
than folly to select merely from the --latest
out and to ignore those fundamental laws
which underlie all really good effects. In
dividuality is the feature that stamps it
self most surely on the mind of the locker
on. The woman who adapts the fashions
to herself is the woman of distinction the
woman whose costumes linger in the men,
DRY.
FOR WOMEN WITH CARRIAGES.
Afternoon dress grows more and more
elaborate with each season. Chiffon gowns,
long trailing skirts, chiffon velvet in light
colors, most elaborate waists, coats of
white cloth lace-trimmed and fur-trimmed,
white gowns, pale-tinted gowns, all are
worn by the women who own carriages
and are driven about With them are seen
most elaborate stoles and colarettes muffs
that indeed creations, and most elab-
crate accessories of all sorts. But, while
all this Is true, the handsome tailored
Correct up to '' the dinner hour s Some @a of
the smartest visiting costumes of the lat
ter sort are of zibeline in the new Oriental
red, and are deliberately trimmed with
fancy black braids and passementerie, or
with Yak lace dyed to match. Coats are
open at the front and half-fitted at the
back. SO allowing of wearing elegant and
fancy waists, and are thrown open on en-
tering the house. When the material is
zibeline or any heavy cloth, the waist is
of crepe de Chine, crepe ninon or chiffon in
matching color, or of white, cream or ecru
lace. When lighter cloths are used, waists
are often made ensuite, with fancy fronts
and boleros of lace. Boleros. by the way.
remain, fight against them as the design
ers will. They suit nearly all figures. They
are chic and charming. Women recognize
all these ,b Facts and refuse to be forced into
waists, for wear with tailored suit, that
l have seen is made with bolero of ecru
being of brown zibeline. The chiffon is
finely tucked to form yoke, below which
it falls in soft folds. and has big pulled
sleeves, with deep cuffs of lace over which
fall those of the bolero that extend not
quite to the elbows. At the 'front.' where
the tiny jacket closes, is worn a big soft
rosette of velvet ribbon with ends The
coat is in three-quarter length, with loose
fronts that are faced with white satin en-
broidered with pale gold, and turn back to
form revers. The effect of the brown and
the ecru is Charming, and the white and
gold greatly enhances the picture. The
skirt and the coat handsome after a
quiet manner, and are trimmed with Yak
lace dyed to match. There is veritable
craze for heavy laces of all sorts. Some
OF the linen sorts are wonderfully chic, and
are used both In the natural color and dyed
A most elegant brown cloth, seen at a re-
cent reception, has wide bands of Cluny in
ecru, and is worn with mink furs SO MAX
ing color scheme that is a genuine de-
light.
EMBROIDERY IN DEMAND.
Embroidery is much used and is ALWAYS
Inherently elegant. One sees both that
done by machine and that executed by
hand in various combinations. English.
or open work, effects are liked for cloth
and are with contrasting color laid
under the design. Oriental bands and TRIM
mings too are sought after and. in addition,
there is much canvas work used AS a
matter of course the fact means costly
gowns. Much time and labor are represent
ed, and time and labor mean money But
numberless women of leisure do the work
themselves and often so produce really
unique results, as they less likely 10
follow the design blindly than Is the paid
worker and add the touch of individuality
tons are seen. One most novel gown is of
cashmere combined with cloth and velvet
and is embroidered most elaborately The
skirt is of the cashmere, with a front
breadth or panel of white cloth and hin
yoke of the cloth that is overlaid with
black velvet supplemented by needlework
in subdued colors. The waist is of the
cashmere with waistcoat of ecru linen
lace and is supplemented by a shoulder
cape of the white cloth overaid and en-
broidered to match the skirt. Rough
cloths with plain velvet with cloth cash
mere with both and every possible COM
bina ton is seen. Four materials in a single
gown is by no means uncommon and some
singularly good effects are so obtained
Velvets spotted with contrasting colors
are seen and admit of most desirable com
binations. An exceedingly handsome cos
L Of GRO rcd t.