New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1902-04-29
SONE BLUNDERS N COOKING.
HON. TO ECONOMIZE IN CUSTARD MAKING
WHEN TO USE WHITES OF
EGGS WHIPPED

Ordinary housekeepers believe they understand
nlain cooking but it is in the preparation OF simple
foods that the greatest number of mistakes are
made.
For many years custard has been one or the
housekeepers standbys yet 1t is in the preparation
of so simple dish this that a culinary error
IS commonly made. The old rule for plain GUS
tard calls for a tablespoonful of sugar and an egg
to every cup of milk with q proper amount Vi
favoring Some cooks put in more eggs. which
they think make the custard richer. There are
cornnaratively few householders who realize that
it is the yozs of and not the whites on which
the custard depends for thickening. Inc alpumeh
adds little or nothing a custard or any pudding
Of a custardlike consistency, and therefore should
be left out unless it is separated from the yolks
and added in the form OF meringue or frostlns
after the pudding is baked. In few cornstarch
or batter puddings the whites are whipped up
separately from the yolks and added as the PUG
ding is cooking giving it delicate frothIike
,axture In preparing cream, of course the
volks are the only portion that should be used
The whites should always be saved Tor CAKE
,oeringues or some dish in which they are essen
tIal It is extravaganza to put them in ice cream
as II is in custards.
Cake Is dependent on the whites or eggs for light
ness and its peculiarly delicate consistency. Inc
hest cakes are those made of the whites OF eggs
alone. such as angel cake. delicate or white cake
and others Sunshine cake owes It's excellence 10
tho whites Of eggs only enough yolks being used
to color it thoroughly. making 1T a superior KIND
of sponge cake
The majority of people hesitate TO make angel
cake because it takes the whites OF eleven eggs
However an egg broken is not an egg used Inc
o1,e of the eggs can be easily utilized In dozens
of ways if they properly saved ana Kept COW
cred. They may be used FOR egsliis meats ana
fish. croquettes. and any article 10 De eSstu anu
dreaded With a little water or milk added TO
.,a ,,olks they make a much better and more even
hath 70 receive the bread or cracker crumbs imam
when the whites also used folks may De
used in Goldfish balls and certain fritter oatters
which require more yolks than whites. Intelligent
cooking requires the continual use of yolks with
out the whites and of whites without the yolks
There are many dishes which eggs 90 not I'M
proye though they commonly called Tor IN
cookbooks and housekeepers seem prejudlceo
AGAINST leaving them out. In the familiar wheaton
..fapiack" sometimes called by Philadelphians
..sanneI cakes" eggs spoil the dish. and the name
flannel" becomes most appropriate one Leave
out the eggs, by all means. ana make the CAKES
with baking powder ard flour, ana nan cupiui
Of shortening rubbed into pint OF flour halt
,,rf,l of read crumbs may replace the same
quantity of -four. giving the cakes peculiarly
aaky consistency. or boiled honiny may be used
~ Cookbooks and housekeepers generally believe
that when is used In desserts II SnOuiu od
separately from the yoks should be beaten as sun IN
as Pppssm /. not improved by whipping it Sweet
ened cream which is an excellent sauce Iol i'iiiy
eepta6le as pudding if it is not whppe;d
Much may be said in regard to whipping a Wni rs
Of eggs in cake. Any cake even sponge cake, IN
which they are used is lighter and better Tor II
The eggs must be whipped moderately by french
whip not stirred by the popular American sgg
beater which does not whip, It is quite possible
80 Joaat the eggs so that they make the cake nearly
10 9oIeb as leather Nest heaters. which ideal
a-rangements for preparing mayonnaise dressing
aud many other things. may be warranted TO peat
creano TO butter and hopelessy tougher the whites
of -..lt--;z,r .,,o ,,-b,,a.
of eggs is desirable This is especially true In
-ayaring icing cake, when II is not deSira Die
70 create air cells. thus making the frosting rough
,rbs does not however. apply TO boiled icing. where
~ hot fouid breaks down the air cells OF the
whipped whites. Whipping the egg In this case
"ra,,ents II from hardening into solid mass when
ttbe hot syrup is poured over it, as it would If 1t
ucere not whipped.