Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-09-06

Special Correspondence Of The Evening Star.
PARIS. August %. 1892.
For nearly n year there have been signs
OF Hop in sleeves. FIRST came eccentric
modification Of the prevailing Close-htting
sleeve such as pIaits running toward the
elbow from both upper and lower arm but
stopping short Of it. leaving a most unbe-
coming bulge over the elbow. Next there
came the tight sleeve cut off just below the
elbow. leaving the rest Of the distance TO
be finished with an ind ars!eeve of lace or
silk. white or colored. Then the wristband
made its appearance even on 'dress-up''
arm coverings Lastly there was the simple
widemouthed bell sleeve, either stitched,
strapped or deliberately trimmed with lace,
according To The taste of the wearer.
Today this chaotic whirl Of shapes has
settled somewhat, so one may judge from
the present what the coming winter and
spring Will show forth. The old-fashioned
large sleeve was immense at the top and
small and narrow at the bottom. With the
new large sleeve, however. the case is ex-
aCt!y reversed. 1t is small at the top and
oyHrgr1wn at the bottom. The general idea
of it * that il shall fit the armhOle loosely
enough 10 he comfortable. but be either
entirely plain or have one or two rows of
plating along each side OF the outer seam.
These plaitS may stop at the elbow or run
on down over it toward the wrist. In every
case the lower end of a long sleeve must,
however. be very full. Sometimes it IS gath
cred into wristband sometimes left flow
ing and these two styles are about equally
represented i'm the latest garments.
Both the flowing and the wrist band sleeve
will be used in heavy fUrs and outdoor gar
ments. MUGISh fur manufacturers have al
ready exhibited jackets and l0nser coats in
which both styles appear. So they promise
to be the vogue for a least two seasons, or
anything So costly as Persian lamb and seal
would not be made with these sleeve shapes.
Variety of Materials.
The accompanying illustration shows in
one of The groups Of sleeve pictures the
varieties that will mostly appear IN heavy
outdoor garments. The odd fancy for min
Cling fur with lace has not yet subsidized.
will BE- seen in the somewhat small. PLAIN
seaiskin sleeve with the very large open
cuff from which falls the deep lace frilling.
loose fitting jacket. Here is also a fur
sleeve gathered close at the wrist and fin
iShed with a fiar.ng cuff. This belongs to a
tight jacket. Sleeves for the long coats of
cloth for winter wear display the same two
styles Of sleeves. either loose and flowing or
gathered in half or wholly at the wrist.
one point is To be remembered-where a
sleeve i 81 large and loose at the lower end
It must be offset by some wide trimming
over the bust and shoulders, or the figure
Will appear uncouth. The trimming gener-
ally falls over the sleeve 81. ghtly at the top
giving the effect o. d cap. This is shown
in the half-Iengrh figure IN the fur jacket.
which i one Of the most popular cuts for
winter Here the full flowing sleeve IS har-
mOniZed al tho top by a broad reyers collar
whose point exteuGs quite To the shoulder.
For The outside hlouseS. bc!eroS and Eton
jacket SUITS that are worn during the cool
buc not cold days of autumn merely the
sane shapes in sleeves are repeated, with