The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-01-12
Paris Ladies Have Resolved to Adopt
Short-waisted Gowns and Loose
Greek Draperies.
STYLE FOR YOUNG WOMEN ONLY
DOwAGERS AND STOUT LADIES WILL
WEAR THE DUBARRY WAIST.
Height Is Needed to Make Loose
Gowns Graceful, and Girls Go to
Doctors to Be Pulled Taller.

Correspondence OF the indianapolis Journal.
PARIS, Dec. 30-The corsetless age is
coming and the first-republic and early
empire costume. The new fashion move
ment is headed by the imperialist ladies'
club Petit Chapeau, and the Prince and
Princess De la Moskova are among its
chief promoters. 1.-THE combination of styles
will once more endow the female figure
with it's inherent grace and harmonious
majesty" say the great ladies of the Petit
Chapeau; I'VE wish our salons to be splen-
did and, like the great Napoleon, rebuke
women who commit the sin of economy, for
the changes of fashion are the soul of trade
the statement of the first lady of the
United States that she could dress on loo
francs per year notwithstanding-and ladies
should occasionally hear such sober truths
as the Emperor addressed to the wife of
one of his marshals: Your cloak is superb;
have seen it good many times.
The new costume, now discussed in
every drawing room and worn in a few.
approaches, for indoor wear, at least, the
"Authenian," so popular under the first
republic, the skirt of the overdress being
open at the sides from the waist to the
lower edge of the tunic. 1t has a train of
considerable size, in imitation of the elas-
steal dress of the Greeks and Romans.
JOSEPHINE WAIST.
The bodice is after the style so much adj
mired in the portraits of the Empress jose
phine and in those of Napoleon's beautiful
sisters, Pauline. Caroline and Eliza. 1t
is extremely short-waisted, displaying a
good deal of the bosom. For thin ladies a
gauze kerchief or a long scarf will be en-
regle, and dowagers who raise objections
to too much decollete are reminded that:
Jewels only ought to adorn
Charms that are hurt by wool"
Perfectly made women, real beauties"
says the Princess de la Moskova, "can
even go back a step further in the matter
of short waists and wear theirs under the
arms. the bosom being pushed upward"
The new bodice fastens on the Shout
ders by many colored ribbons and is
trimmed with ancient lace at the neck.
The sleeves are short la Josephine, and
long (white) kid gloves, reaching above the
elbow, have necessarily come in again. An
actress started it.
L asked the princess to what happy cir
cumstance fashionable women were in
debted for the revival of a most graceful
and splendid mode.
Its really a secret of the Petit Cha
peau,'" she replied. but as there are too
many of us to keep it long l might as well
confess that Mile. Lea Leonne first demon
strated it's advantages at a social held at
my house early in December. Mile. Lea
was engaged to recite some verses on the
splendor and greatness OF the first Ma
hoI +1a
as Pauline. the emperor's most fascinating
sister, who was also the handsomest of the
terzetto of Incompatible beauties.
LAS she appeared on the platform in her
trailing Greek skirt trimmed with gimp.
her apology for a waist and a wreath of
brightly colored flowers round the bot
tom of the skirt she almost took our breath
away. 1t wasn't theatrical at all; it seemed
like revival of the greatest period France
ever passed through.
mile. LEAFS skirt was short in front, re-
vealing the feet-any society woman having
pretty feet would like to do that. Her
shoes consisted of a sole fastened to the
leg by white silk ribbons Really, I don't
wonder at the language of old-time court
reporters, who pronounced the antique
mode of foot covering as full of incon-
ceivable freshness. elOquence and poetry
For this special occasion" continued the
princess, Mile. LEAFS dress was of diaph-
anous material, which L don't approve Of
but the beauty of which would be hard to
dispute; other extravagances were her gar
tiers, two circlets of gold and rings on her
bare feet. When, later on, / asked her
about still more intimate details, she con-
fessed that she wore no chemise or under
clothes of any kind. Her hair was dressed
in the Greek style, a band Of canoes. rep
resenting Roman Caesars, encircIing the
head in short, she was a picture of grace
and beauty, such as our modern gowns
cannot produce at any cost.
1.-The ladies of the Petit Chapeau' were
so much interested in Mile Lea's appear-
ance that her declamatory efforts passed
almost unnoticed until the prince at last
gave the signal for applause.
But in thanking the lady, his compliments
exclusively referred to the Appropriateness
and the beauty of her attire.
After she had gone we discussed the case
thoroughly and then and there entered into
a conspiracy for the re-establishment of the
empire costume with the changes noted.
We are in earnest about it and have invited
the most beautiful women of the Greek
colony to join us. With their and certain
notable artists assistance-the latter being
engaged to design the new dress-we hone
to succeed in securing the popularity of
fashions at once graceful and hygienic.
venture TO say that within the next twelve
month women will wear beautiful gowns
without thinking of them all the time
which, according TO Nine. Girardin. is the
quintessence of comfort
DOWAGERS A LA DU BARRY.
From other members of the Petit Cha
peau' L learn that the semi-frst-repub-
lic-and-empire style is intended for women
under forty only, unless excess of flesh de-
nies them the privilege earlier i'm life. For
the benefit of stout women and dowagers
the splendid bodices of the fifteenth Louis
period will be revived waists of heavy
lowered silk, preferably in two handsome
colors. They demand a tall. well-developed
figure and perfect symmetry of outlines.
Their cut will be V-shaped. with reverses
of velvet lace and a jeweled stomacher or
a vest richly set with gold cord and tassels
AS the models for yo ing woman's cos
TUNES are constructed after the portraits
of Josephine, Queen Hortense and the
beautiful Pauline, so the dowagers will be