Omaha daily bee., 1902-09-21
Notable Features in CIOnks, Gowns
Frocks and millinery.

Notable Features IN Niu"Af
Frocks and Millinery.
NEW YORK, Sept. 1s.-The first thing one
notices with the new autumn suits Is a
tendency toward braid trimmings and
stitched strappings Of all sorts. In form
the gowns, even the plainest OF them, run
10 skirts that train slightly, with a blouse
Jacket or Eton coat for the upper garment.
Such styles, however, are distinctly TOT
street wear. The dressier frocks, those
worn for calling, receptions, the theater'
etc, show blouse or round bodies, made
elaborate with embroideries and lace vests.
A few coats are seen with these very smart
costumes. but the beet Of them even sug-
gest the round waist, since most OF the tail
is in the rear.
One very stunning new coat for tailor
frocks shows the close At and rear cut Of a
riding Jacket. a long. plain. snugly fitting
skirt with this adding to the horsy look.
More glove-tight than ever are all skirts
at the top. where habit backs, fitting with
out a wrinkle and short hip yokes are
distinctive features Of the ewest styles.
Some degree Of train is also everywhere
observable, but, being less s~tifened than
formerly, the houncing bottoms fall with
considerably more grace. Another point for
congratulation Is that the hideous sym
metricals"-the graphic stage term-which,
for a season or more, built out too meager
hips, have had their day. The hips Of
the fashionable woman must look small,
whether they are or not, and the smaller
they look the better.
\ A trio Of charming street gowns de-
1ightfully illustrate these subtle but neces-
sary points. Two demonstrate the invad-
ing hip yoke, which in all cases is cut short
at the back and to dip downward at the
front. Never Is such a line departed from;
Il Is intended that the curve OF the yoke
must follow that of the girdle, which at
the front curves more than ever low.
The New Blue.
French cloth-the sort Of broadcloth that
has a satiny hnish-in one Of the new
blues, composes the more elegant Of the
three costumes. A very handsome en-
b~roidery In blue and black ornaments the
blouse waist, but the skirt depends en-
tirely upon stitched strappings Of the same
cloth for trimming. These outline a hip
yoke and graduated %fiounce, horizontal
bands running between at every narrow
gore. At the bottom the gore bands cross
the hounce one, the ends pointed and gradu-
ating in length, showing longest at the back.
With the rich embroidery mentioned more
bands appear upon the bodice, shaping a
corset girdle shoulder, caps and cuff bands
for the sleeves. The tucked vest is Of white
mousseline, crossed by narrow strings OF
black panne. These hold together the en-
broidered blouse fronts, whose splendor is
further emphasized by large buttons or sap
phire and silver. A black mousseline cravat
smartly swaths the throat and the folded
glrdle is OF the black panne.
The second gown in point Of elegance is
also blue. for blue, you know, is Fashions
latest caprice. she does not conhne herself
TO any particular shade, but offers tints for
every taste, Legitimate" blues-our old
friends the navy shades-and "illegitimate''
ones, II we may use the word, for some OF
the numberless mad tinted dyes. The old
time sky-blue, rebaptized azure. is a favorite
color for airy evening gowns, and a new and
very eccentric tint is called 'gaslight
blue"
radiant COIors.
Trimmings Of black and white deck many
OF these radiant c%olors, the combinations
showing In braids with a tartan weave and
checked silks. On a bewitching house gown
OF pale blue French cashmere, black and
white checked silk was used with a sur
prisingly smart effect. Also 1t suggested
dazzling possibilities in the way Of economy,
for such silks are never dear and short
remnants in them can always be found.
But to return to our second frock, whose
texture is no more than English serge. in
a lightweight quality. The unlined skirt is
lightly tucked and falls from a scalloped
hip yoke over a black taffeta drop" which,
you know, is dressmaker's iargon for lining.
The trimming is narrow black braid, put
on the skirt IS an odd band to simulate a
graduated lounce On the bodice, which
goes under tho belt at the back and has
loose Elton fronts. the braid is differently
disposed
A number OF rows. closely massed, form
a border for the cutout neck and fronts
which lap slightly, som scattered ends Of
braid, finished with heavily embroidered
knots, giving the necessary look OF relation
ship with the skirt. Similar swirls orna-
ment the dropping pufs of the sleeves
whose upper portions more than usually
aeoentuate the present closely at this point
The third gown, though madei with less
dressy intention than these two. to the
sophisticated mind far surpasses them il
dash. Brown and white notified wool ID
its ground material, plain brown cloth
bands, with white cloth edges-both left
raw-accomplishing a decoration Infinitely
effective. Two Of these outline the narrow
apron gore OF the skirt. two others run
ming round with a double Gouneo suggestion
swirling oddly at the sides and back.
stylish Coats.
An Elton coat is the simple upper gar.