Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-06-21
FROM OVER THE SEA
THE LATEST ENGLISH HINTS ON
MEMS DRESS.
The Coronation Chesterfield Overcoat is
Among the Novelties of the Sea-
son-Minor Accessories.

coat. two months ago. 1 predicted that the
same fashion would presently be extended
to evening dress, and it has been, but did
not foresee it's extension to Chesterfield
overcoat. The latter is cut fairly loose with
whole back and a yoke; the cuffs are
turned back and cut away in the same
manner as the bottom of the foreparts OF a
waistcoat, Immediately below the last but
ton, Is cut away. The line of velvet-a mere
piping-is carried round the edge of the
lapel and front seam but Of course not
round the skirt. 1t also finishes of the
turned back cuffs and there is a deep vel
vet collar. The buttons are likwise covered
with velvet. The color is dark blue and the
material of the coat a rich beaver melton.
Americans coming to London with such a
garment for the coronation-and it Will be
the very best fashion then-will be we'll ad-
vised not to have this coat cut with yoke,
and no great mischief will be done If they
eschew the turned-back cuffs, though the
latter are at present regarded as the correct
accompaniment of a velvet-edged coat of
any kind. There exist unmistakable tokens,
however. that the inconvenient and I'M
comely vogue of turned cuffs will rot con-
tinue.
Turned Back Cuffs.
The fact is that these cuffs not only coll
lect dust with tiresome persistency tand
there Is plenty of dust to collect in Lon
uOHJ, Jul dlSO get III tic way IL
you attempt to do anything with them on.
If you happen to get caught in a shower
while wearing turned back cuffs, pity you.
1t has already ueen recognized in influential
quarters that turned cuffs on a dress coat
are even more ridiculous than they are
upon frock coat. The only possible place,
in sound taste, for them is on an overcoat,
and although, while 1 write, these cuffs are
the absolutely correct thing with each and
every coat which Is edged with velvet, the
ho,,o L@0. ot~,Dr f1I hxrt he tiy,,a
the present letter is printed. So. too, with
the velvet buttons. they are not at all
necessary to the correctness of the coat,
though at the moment they are generally
used. OF one thing take careful note, cuffs
wholly covered with velvet are quite out of
date, Notwithstanding the kings public APP
pearance some months ago in frock over
coat having such cuffs. 1t will be better
not to have yoke either The tendency of
the time is to simplify all overcoats.
Color Tones.
The Chesterfield overcoat is the one that
will be fashionable all summer for evening
dress and next winter for general use
Frock overcoats will not wholly vanish, but
the Chesterfield will come back into use
with its neverchanging momentum. Coats
come and go, but the Chesterfield passeth
not away The raglan is now quite ex-
tinct except for driving and coaching.
In general the abolition Of black and
WHltc DIS the prevalent COiOT-nOte OF the
town Is proceeding rather slowly, and this
combination lately so universal, is being
superseded by plain surfaces wherever pos
Sible. Thus, cravats of single color with
out any design at all. or with what design
exists at all worked into them by the char
acter of the weave, are distinctly a rising
fashion. and blue serge jacket suits for
knockabout wear and absolutely informal
occasions are again very much in use OF
course. the excellent blue indigo serge is
never quite out of use, because it is never
quite the fashon-at all events never a
craze 1t Is too settled and dignified for
that. But just a little while ago it was
worn a trife less than usual. Now it is
just as much more to the front of its usual
degree of popularity The custom is to
wear red sailor knot with blue serge
Jacket.
single-Breasted Jackets.
The single-breasted jacket with nearly
square corners, so long in use, will be a
good deal worn this summer in the coun-
try and on the river; certainly no double
breasted jackets will be worn. The latest
tendency, however Is to revert to the old
shaped foreparts-to wit, those which are
cut away in generous curve. The single
breasted collarless waistcoat is the one that
Is worn with either a jacket or a Cambridge
coat (modfied morning coat with hin
pockets), but the shape differs at the neck
opening. With a jacket the opening is cut
with curve so that the crossing of the
fronts at the button does not make a sharn
angle, but a roundabout and very obtuse
one whereas the waistcoat worn with a
Cambridge coat is made with a high neck
opening of the ordinary land much nrefar
ab!e) shape. 1t Is a little difficult to make
quite clear what l mean, but the essence of
the matter is this: The neck opening of a
Jacket-suit waistcoat Is U shaped, while
this opening in the Waistcoat worn ,,ndar n
Cambridge coat is V shaped The lam
bridge coat, which with little congruitv Is
no" pelns made in fiannels Of a light gray
or greenish color, without obvious pattern.
Is more cut away than formerly and hos
thus got rid of its rather ugly frontal eF
feet 1t has skirts to within an inch or
Two above the knees, and the two hin nook
etS are the only ones on the outside; no
ticket pocket. A once-over is the cerrect
craVat to wear with it, and a pearl the min
to wear in the once-over cravat Either a
gray Alpine or Panama hat goes with This
outnt, put although this tailed coat so far
iorsetS itself as to be worn with a low hat
the shoes must be of black calf, laced up
The trousers are fairly snug
What to Button.
We wear this coat buttoned. but n 10
quite study to know what YOU must do n,
this respect in order to be in the mode
mus, the Cambridge and the morning coats
are worn buttoned, and the square Jacket
100. Inc new old round-cornered Jacket is
worn open, and so is the frock coat. hut
the frock overcoat is, like the Chesterfield
always worn buttoned up. The queer usage
OF wearing the last button of the waistcost
unbuttoned Is obsolete except on horseback
Ihere is, OF course, good reason for this
exception. If you ride with that button
done up you will soon do I'D" the gar
ment, for 1t will take horizontal crease
across that portion of your ana tony which
you probably ride to reduce. Why not wear
a Wa1stcoat short enough to avoid this7
Because 1t would show the top of the
trousers, most likely. Why not make the
trousers higher up in the body? Because
that would make the wearers tum-tum foo
conspicuous, and also too hot
River Clothes.
The notion of shirt to be worn over
the suspenders-we call the latter braces"
as you know-has not been found very ac-
ceptable here. Young Englishmen prefer
to suspend the use of suspenders during
any exercise requiring the neglige shirt
A shirt with long pleats down the front.
extending below the broad belt which con-
ceals the top of the trousers ia what we
use. River shirts are made all soft. in
striped patterns and with turned back soft
cuffs. Mercerized cotton is a good deal
used. as months ago 1 predicted 1t would
De, but also Ia Shp