The Telegraph-courier. [volume] (Kenosha, Wis.) 1888-1946, 1902-07-17


taper to nothing at the top, spreading
to ten inches wide at the bottom.
There is but one kind of Grape for this,
the old English Courtauld, as none
other is made Of sufficient body for the
purpose. The skirt is made of the jet
black, frosty eudora, with the silk
warp just being visible in some occult
way, enough to give the soft luster re-
quired to set off the Grape. The waist
is slashed with insets Of the Grape,
and there is shaped bertha entirely
Of the Grape, and this is wrought into
jabot in the front The sleeves are
Of the eudora, with three ruff1es of the
Grape at the wide shaped bottom. The
dainty white hemstitched null collar
is a pretty adjunct to black gown, as
black is generally very trying to the
complexion when against the neck
Anybody might envy the becoming lit
tie cap and floating white veil. The
cap and veil are Of crepe lisse, than
which nothing is more becoming.
For more ordinary wear there are
many different materials, such as soft
armure, cashmere, silk warp henri
eta, veilings, black pongee and many
small figured stuffs; also plain black
wool grenadine. Anything almost that
Is black will answer If there is a bit of
Grape somewhere as a sign.
Few young women, except widows,
now wear black wells save for church
in first mourning. Hats are made
In all the most fashionable shapes
with Grape trimming for the first
three months After that taffeta rib
bons and chiffon can be used to trim
with. Black quilts are seen oftener on
hats for young people than anything
else. Mingled with black lusterless
ribbon they are quite proper for any
girl under sixteen.
Just now few wraps are required,
but for very recent mourning some sort
Of coat Is almost de rigueur. A short
box shape with the bottom f1aring
somewhat is shown in one place, and
there Is pointed yoke of Grape, fin
ished at the edge with a roll Of the
same. Below this are deep lengthwise
folds Of the eudora, front and back.
The collar is standing one with folds
OF Grape at the edge, and inside this is
narrow roll of white crepe lisse.
Black armure parasols and glace
gloves are fashionable, and jewelry is
Of fine Whitby jet, in some cases sur
rounded by fine gold wire twisted.
This we have seen before many years
ago, but it Is not so ostentatious as
diamonds. And because a woman has
lost her loved one is no reason why
she should not wear something TO
tighten the somberness little.
Handkerchiefs for mourning are Of
ten seen with borders more than an
inch deep, and then again we will find
others where the black line is quite
narrow. Others are all white, but are
hemstitched with black silk These
are very refined. Some are all white
with black monogram in one corner.
So one can obey her own pleasure in
the choice of such conspicuous arti-
cle There are some very dainty little
fancies in neckwear, quite appropri-
ate all OF them. One has the stock of
white crepe lisse shirred closely to the
foundation, and over that are laid four
milliner's folds Of black Grape. The
bow with its long ends is of black
with tiny lines of white crepe lisse
around them.
Boas made of black chiffon, with
roll Of Grape bound around the edges
and down the long ends, are quite prop
er for outdoors, and even the dress in
the Illustration can be worn In the
street with one Of these boas and
small hat; but this must have a veil
when for widow, old or young.
For full mourning cotton or silk
gloves are not to be worn, no matter
what the weather. This remark is
made because lady was seen only
yesterday in grand and elegant cos
tume-all but the cotton gloves.
HENRIETTE. ROUSSEAU.