Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1902-10-09
DAINTY WAISTS.

wash and wooden fabrics. One odd nov
city has the back rather short and laid
in four narrow folds directly in the
center. while the fronts have regular
shirt waist finish, with several narrow,
short tucks at the neck and the full
ness drawn down in blouse form. A
fat collar of white linen, made with
point in the back, and long white tie
go with this waist. There is also a
white belt. The material is of fine dark
blue French flannel. The sleeves are
bishop shape, with very narrow cuffs.
Other waists have shield shaped
fronts. buttoning over to the left side
at the shoulder. Still others are in the
ever loved surplice shape. In these the
back has few folds at the center,
with all the rest plain. The fronts are
gathered at the shoulders and the ends
are made long enough to tie around the
waist in a small bow in the back.
These are made of everything from
flannel to silk, with few wash goods
thrown in. High collars may be set in
under the V shaped front, or if
dressy effect is desired the front may be
left open and little lace be put along
the edges as Il finish.
For evening wear there are many
styles, but probably the best is the
bloused front and French back cut
rounded at the neck, so that it does
not fall too low off the shoulders or
appear too low in front. A bertha Of
quite deep lace finishes the neck. FL
bow sleeves are for dinners and short
pulled ones for full dress. These
shaped waists are varied almost in
fnitely by ornamentation in which
lace of different kinds is utilized. One
style has the shoulders cut down and
held up by black velvet straps. Others
have the whole shoulder part left to
hang loose and bare. A strap of twist
ed lace or of the dress material holds
the waist up. The slope of the Shout
der is a line of beauty. and it is not in
the nature of things to hide it.
Sleeves are mostly bishop, even for
fine semidress occasions. They are
long or elbow, as best suits the wear
er. Where the sleeves are for fine
gowns they usually have a fall of lace
at the wrist or elbow. Bell sleeves for
coats are certainly seen on more than
half of the coats redingotes and wraps.
l see many black lace dresses, some
of them plain, some beaded and some
with the largest flowers outlined in
floss silk in delicate colors or in che
mile. In such a case the dress is trim
med at the neck, on the sleeves and
often around the bottom with chiffon
shirrings of the same tint. Pink and
black, light blue with black, green and
also rcd and yellow, are seen. | think
the all black over black taffeta glace
is the most elegant.
There are some lovely tea gowns on
exhibition so far, mostly in light bro
cade silks and eoliennes. These are
lined with some contrasting color,
which show delicately through the ma
terial and the dress itself is barred
back and forth with insertions of black
or white lace and sometimes the two
mingled. The neck is finished with
wide bertha collar, richly trimmed with
narrow ruffles of lace. The bottom of
the skirt has its usual quota of ruffies.
Some of the sleeves are wide and flow
ing at the bottom, and others have
them brought to band with a deep
fall of lace.
Much fancy hand stitching is done to
ornament almost every kind of gar
ment-feather, herringbone and so
many varieties of this particular kind
Of garniture that no garment need
have anything better to be fashionable.
1t is principally done on woolens, but
many elegant silk waists and skirts
have it too. Some make whole waists
with ribbon fastened together by this
stitching, which is now called fagoting.
HENRIETTE ROUSSEAU.