New-York tribune., 1902-02-09
JAUNTY RAINY DAY OUTFIT
THE AMERICAN COSTUME A FAD IN
PARIS JUST NOW-MILLINERH
FOR SPRING.
Paris, February

Paris. February :.
The damn muddy DAYS OF the last few weeks the
,susl expression OF a Paris winter nave susEes'eu
:. ,ba parisienne in town the eXpedency or the
-, skirt recommended by the tailors in the au-
.,ron An excursion foot is the mode now III
tbe Bois Il is understood, and not in Paris lor le
,rornan Of the world does her shopping, ana her
,sa drinking afterward, by means of her carriage
Ryr a morning excursion in the Bos. whether II Is
- sr ones toilets ones dogs one s children Is
,rouery taken foot. The value OF the snort
skirt has at last been appreciated and ackno"l-
edged.
And vet many American and English women resi-
dents Of Paris say they dislike wearing what they
can their rainy day" skirts in the city. because
they attract so much attention. Rather contra
tiotion at a time when all fashion writers are en-
arging on the fact that this innovation mas peeh
accepted
Paris manners seem always slight contradiction
on Paris fashions. At the moment the 'allees' in
The Bos the of the leisure class on five days
least of the week, show large proportion OF
women wearing the French example Of the rainy
day skirt but the class of women that most needs
this skirt the thrifty housekeeper. who must rely
on buses and not carriages, and the working
women shows the slightest interest IN the move
ment. Il is q fad, not an innovation The French
woman Of the conservative middle class mas httIe
regard for a fad that prevents a robe du Dl-
mancbe" from descending with few changes 70 one
Of daily use. and she has d wonderful tacllIly III
adapting another. There IS less uahser oL
an innovation becoming common" here than IN a
large city al home on account Of this conservative
feeling among the well 10 do middle class. who wish
only 10 appear CONNIE Il faut, ana not lhe latest
expression Of the mode.
The rainy day" skirt IS recognized in Paris sim
ply as a fad of the moment, one supposed to appeal
10 q limited class as English or American idea
But after all can one acknow ledge il as coming
from such q source? The. rainy day outht. as
worn in England and America, has practical
unitarian advantage that is lacking IN the Frehch
suit. The skirt OF the former is scant as well as
short, and the boots are high and stout lhe halr
is well tucked under a small, practical ram de-
flying tooue as to make the tightly rolled umbrella
seem useless appendage, and every line OF apparel
Is trg 10 the point OF meagreness. The effect was
attractive masculine, III the better exam
pies, in q boyish way.
The French idea Of the rainy day" costume has
not a hint of the masculine about it. The skirt IS
generally pleated, decidedly full. and reaches 10
within three inches Of the ground. Yet the frehch
woman manages not TO lift It and to keep heF hsh
heeled boots free from mud well; wnelneiL i IeI &
sklr De hlgh or long sEe Is an 49, a. ~ roIIgh wool
- s.alSI Shti ~ -r5 often trimmed with
small buttons and the Jackets have positions ana
under sleeves The toque Is trimmed Jauntliy am M
not too much but with a coquettish touch. and an
accessories are dainty and frivolous 1t Is an eul
uen de luxe Of the rainy day tolISI, q straw
There IS d curious sh.de OF rose an9sI ii d gu in
berry color. that is having w6ite or
rough Wools il is effective with @ el,nei =, Nd Is
ulsck hairy surface running 9HtI t. -; ;,re.t cos
prettest trimmed with white. A oalnty sutet cos
black has the three bias pieces on the skIt itb
narrow black braid. The blouse has Triple shoul-
der pieces TO match, and loose, doupie DISdS
front, trimmed with clusters OF three sHlall Cloti
buttons Two black and white, in every cluster
The sleeves are cuI show no folos at me tol' DIt
10 stand well out. giving a square eHeCl - tIe
shoulders. they widen at the elDo~s. -MhtIe lIeS
sashed and trimmed with fold OF white ana
edge OF braid and the close undersleeVes are lald
IN small box pleats, closed on the OUTSIDE OF lne
arm by rows Of the black and white buttons IN
clusters
A new idea in millinery is 4 cockaoe OF straw oI
series Of cockades. An example OF a summer nat
II White straw Is narrow. with a rounced point IN
front with both turned up SIDES trimmed WIN
series Of straw cockades growing smailer toward
The upper part of the hat is trimmed WIN moss
and small pink daisies This same model lh plach
straw, trimmed with small red roses. represents d
spring style. 90, ,
Moss is used to make entire crowns. with orlms
y lace straw. 4 dainty trimming IS a ruciliHs %,
INK mOusseline de sole gathered into rosetIeS ana
1zed with fine foliage and small white movers
There Is an attempt small. delicate flowers.
ARTIFICIAL flowers and those manufactured or NOUS
seine de sole in trimming the summer mats, or,
Nlat Is the the hats destined Tor Nice.
French a the moment are wearing three
eornered hats. generally OF velvet, trimmed with
Sneels OF silk large pearl ornament sometimes
eaVanced by d spring model a winter hat is
.tpresented by a hat of black velvet with the left
sae turned up and held by three small cockades
1hsas OF y hte silk folds. The hat Is trimmed 10y
elgeoping white ostrich plumes.
umpire scarfs to be worn In the spring, ma de
00aIsn Of silk trimmed with long fringe. An odd
7'hent is a long, loose cloak of silk. made with