Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1902-04-19


rows of white insertion in even lines
above the hem. This skirt is cut quite
straight and gathered at the waist.
! The two rows of white lace around the
bottom are but part of the general
scheme, for the belt is the same, and
the deep fiounce TO the sleeves is also
| trimmed with it. These insertion laces
are so planned that they can be set
! on edges by gathering the upper edge
/ and sewing it as though it were a bOr-
| der. Filet lace is quite n new one for
this kind of trimming, and it has prov
ed very effective. The Irish and other
real laces are quite as popular as they
have been. but the very heavy varie-
| ties are in less demand. as most of the
gowns and other garments are of light
er material, and to look its best the
thick lace requires cloth, velvet and
other rich material.
An innovation in sleeves is to have
the sleeve proper end at or iustTIelow
the elbow in a puff and a deep f1ounce
left open on the forearm or cut so that
the back portion is at least three times
longer than the front. OF course this
relates only to the regular dress sleeves
and not to the separate waists or
shirt waists.
The shirt waist. as n whole, is too
great a subject for complete discus
sion, but few words may be said re-
garding n few of the newest ideas.
The waists differ very little from those
of last summer. Whatever difference
there is consists more in the arrange
ment of the plaits and the front fold
than anything. The very newest is to
have the fold laid at the shoulder just
above the arm size, and this goes dag
onally to the center of the front at the
bottom. This leaves the whole front
looking somewhat like shield BOSOM
ed shirt. In many instances these
fronts are then left perfectly smooth,
but in others there are many fine tucks
along the front fold. All waists are
pouched quite as much as they ever
have been. but the pouching is all
brought quite close to the middle in
front. This leaves the back and sides
trim and neat, with no bagginess.
There are no yoleS to the shirt waists
of-1whatever kind for this season, and
the most of them have no plaits or
tucks at the back. The back is fin
ished with a couple of plaits taken in
at the bottom only.
Perhaps 1 should not say that no
waists are tucked at the back, for
many are, but the tucks reach to the
shoulder and do not finish with yoke.
Some of the shield shaped fronts are
ridiculous, but others are pretty-for
slender persons, but let the stout ones
beware of them. 1t would appear that
the object of them is to produce the
appearance Of width over the shout
ders. Some of these shield shapes
have bretelles down the back to the
belt
see but few waists buttOning in the
back, while many of those fastening
in front have such pretty arrange
ments of the buttons that they are real
ly ornamental, besides being useful.
The taffeta waists are laid in tucks,
some both back and front. The tucks
are in clusters Of small ones, with one
large one between. Sometimes this
wide one is overlaid with lace or fine
fancy braid and ribbon, silk or velvet,(
run in between the holes.
Black velvet ribbon is still largely,
used to trim such waists AMI also fine
embroidery. In short, one can have
anything almost in the way OF a shirt
waist, end it will be all right. 81
HENRIETTE ROUSSEAU. Z