The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1902-10-01
THAT HIGHLY ESTEEMED q
VALVE, THE OYSTER.

| THAT HIGHLY ESTEEMED 81
VALVE, THE OYSTER.
IAN Oyster, Sir, is One of the EIe-
ments of Social Existence"
While each season brings US something
new in the culinary line. or regulates
| TO the past and obsolete, some class of
foods which have long held high place
in popular favor. that most gentle beast
and quiet. the oyster, never loses its
place in the esteem Of those who have
once learned to enjoy IT, Yet there is
no food that suffers more. perhaps. from
bad cooking than this dainty and deli
cious molIusk. When one departs from
eating them au naturel, which is the
most desirable and approved method,
they must, OF necessity. lose much of
the enjoyment as the piquant flavor is
| lost in heating them.
When Cooking is Allowable.
Cooking may be advisable when per-
sons are unaccustoTned TO eating the
| oyster and feel a decided objection to
partaking of an animal food IN its raw
state. Or when one obtains them in in
land places to which the are. as rule
instance, and especially when they are
chilled by keeping a large piece of ice
in with them. they may prove fat, stale
and improbable unless they are served
in some of the many dishes devised and
employed to give variety and spice in
presenting them to the palate. But what
ever method is employed. unless the very
greatest care is observed, cooking will
render the heterogeneous matter they con-
tain tough and insoluble. making them
very difficult Of solution in the stom-
ach.
Next to eating them raw. the best
method is to steam or roast them in
their shells. eating them as soon as the
heat forces the shells 10 open.
How to Eat Raw Oysters.
The custom OF dressing up the I'M
cooked oster with a deluge Of condi-
ments. acids, seasonings. etc. effectually
destroys all vestige of their delicacy,
and is purely American, though most
objectionable TO those. who. living near
the briny home Of the native" have
been bred on this class Of sea foods and
eat the salts" direct from their wa
terry beds with no other dressing
than their own natural juices, which con-
tain considerable amount of phosphoric
acid. To complete the simple but de-
lectable feast crisp celery and brown
bread. in thin slices, is served. The nu-
tritive value OF the oyster is extremely
small and in order to get the daily al
lowsnce of nitrogen from this class of
food alone, one would have to eat an
enormous quantity. This fact does not
lessen the value of an oyster as a most
agreeable addition to their menus, but
rather increases its worth. as they may
be served as accessories TO more sub
stantial meats without making too great
an excess of like foods; or they may
constitute the principal dish, without
other meats. when a light repast is re-
quired. The soft part of the oyster
which forms the greater bulk. is the
liver. In eating raw oysters. the liver
ferment is allowed to act upon the gly-
cogen stored within that organ so that
the oyster is. in sense. self-digested
The oyster is seldom eaten alone, ex-
cept by invalids, and in cases of chronic
illness. when loss of appetite is a marked
feature as well as inability to digest the
heavier and more concentrated forms Of
heterogeneous foods.
When cooking the yoster for the sick.
it should be merely warmed sufficiently
to make it more acceptable II the raw
state is Objectionable: but remember that
the heat may destroy the digestive fer
ment, and long cooking will render the
oster almost or quite indigestible. ac-
cording to the condition of the digestive
functions For the weak or invalid al
was remove the nard. muscular parts.
When oysters are TO be cooked. ii is
not necessary TO use those OF the finest
quality. as the flavor Is. in a great meas
ure changed and a larger. coarser oys-
ter will answer equally as well. The
luxurious little aristocTat Of the tribe
mollusca should be selected only to grace
the banquet table where masters Of elo- |
quence may pay it inspired and poetic |
tribute.
Oyster Fricassee.
Drain and pick over quart OF oysters |
Reserve the oyster liquor and strain it
through cheesecloth. Make two cups Of
white sauce. using the oster liquor in
stead OF milk. Season to taste with
salt, cayenne. and grating Of nutmeg
add the oyster and cook until the glls
begin 10 curl. Stir in two well-beaten
eggs cook a minute longer and pour
out over rounds of delicate toast. ar
ranged on heated dish.
Oyster shortcake.
II this is carefully made il is deli !
cious Make a rich but light baking
powder biscuit dough and bake in layer
oaks tins, split and lightly butter each |
as In comes from the oven. Scald the
strained liquor from a quart Of oysters. |
Rub two tablespoonfuis OF butter smooth |
with two tsbiespoonfuls OF four and stir /
into one and one-half cups Of scalded /
milk. Cook and stir until It thickens: /
add tablespoonful Of butter to the oys- /
ter Juice heat a.. season TO taste with /
salt and white or cayenne pepper. Add I
oysters and heat until the giiis runle 4
Then lay the oysters on the layers Of /
shortcske. add the liquor 10 the sauce 1
and when blended spread over the oys- I
tiers: then add another layer of cake. /
then oysters and pour sauce over the /
whole. sprinkle with q little minced pars- /
ley and serve very hot.
Oysters : Ia Newhurg.
Heat 4 cup OF cream il q double
boiler Rub two ounces CT butter with /
a tablespoonful OF -four Rub the yoiks 4
~ three hard boiled eggs TO a smooth 4
Paste with a little cream and add 70
the hot cream with TIE butter and -four.
STIR ard cook until Il = smooth ard 4
thfck. Season 70 taste with salt and cay
snne. Plump a pint % oksfers IL their
own lsauor. then skim out ard turn into
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