Evening star., 1902-08-08
FROM ACROSS THE SEA
LATEST HINTS ON MEMS ATTIRE
FROM LONDON.
Postponement of Coronation Caused
Sudden Change in Sartorial Program
The Gray and Black Period.

From London Correspondent of Hsberdasher.
The kings illness. and the complete
overseeing of all the arrangements made
for the coronation-a contretemps as un-
precedented the pageant which would
have exceeded in magnificence-eYen in
certain barbaric magnificence - anything
ever seen, have necessarily exercised an
influence Enthusiastically powerful upon the
trade in masculine costume. We were. at
the time fixed for the crowning and install
ment of our king-emperor, the brink of
a great revival of color in male dress. The
sun of this summer was TO have shone
upon chromatic awakening such as for
many month we have not seen. The king
fell Ill. In moment We were all in black
and white or gray again.
Averse to Change.
OF course our national conservativeness
and dislike of change had something to do
with the sudden abandonment of the ex-
pected change. Englishmen are so averse
from any alteration, that even when all in
huences have worked together 10 produce
one, very little thing is needed to give a
fresh start to the old style. 1t so happened
that, for more than a year before the death
of Queen Victoria In 1900, the most popu-
lar hue in male fashion was a cold steel
gray. There were signs just then-in the
shape Of a fashion for gray cravats with
an overrunning pattern of colored silk
that color was coming back The queens
death gave a sudden and overpowering inn
petus to black, and the way in which the
l.atfon went spontaneously into mourning.
from the richest to the poorest classes, was
enc of the most touching evidences of her
peoples affection for the dead ruler. As
the period of mourning passed away, first
and then h1acx and white had ono
run of fashion. At coronation time. even.
colored cravats were so entirely out of 1t
that the full ceremonial day dress suit
would as L said here, have had no colors
in 1t. But as soon as the coronation mark
ed the end of the London season, every
thing showed that colors would come in.
The kings illness gave them an immediate
setback. But, now that this illness has
been SO happily tided over-for as I write
the surgeons have just announced the royal
safety. and bulletins will shortly be official
ly discontinued-we shall certainly have
revival Of colors in every article of male
attire which admits of their introduction.
New Ties.
The first actual sales have already been
made and the West End windows are full
of colored cravats. But so far as actual
| town wear Is concerned, the movement IS
still limited The most conspicuous novel
| ties of the day are the white ascot worn
hat. Plain. dead white-not cream color
| is the color. The new ascot is generally
made of foulard silk But We have also
| variety of silks and mercerzed washing
Stuffs in what is called rather aptly. white
and whitehall is, white with a very slight
and inconspicuous design introduced by
| local change of texture. The pattern does
not GO very far beyond plain lines and
| bars.
| The white Alpine hat is bound with white
| ribbed silk and has a riband of the same
| material. But plain gray AIpines are also
| much worn, and both are of a new shape
| the crown rather high and the brim mar
| row. White dogskin gloves are also much
| in evidence for day wear.
| White-Topped Shoes.
| Another novelty is a white-topped calf or
even patent leather shoe. which looks bet
ter than might be expected. and has much
| the effect Of the old white linen spats,
which are also worn in preference to the
| new shoe by men who do not care for the
| expense Of shoes which soon soil and can
not well be revived. But white tops to
| shoes look much neater than any kind Of
| CATERS.
| Although have just spoken of patterns
| on white cravats. the tendency of the
| latter, and, indeed, Of all masculine goods
! Is against pattern altogether. The col
| ored cravats on show are nearly all
patternless. and my old favorite. China
! Grape, is having quite a boom. The flannel
suits that are being very largely ordered
| for country wear this summer are nearly
| all plain gray. Many men are wearing
plain seif-colored dark gray trousers with
| their black frock coats Fancy waistcoats
are no longer fanciful; they are all being
made of plain gray or blue-gray linen.
Gray Frock Coats.
But the universal reign of the black frocls
! coat has with great suddenness given way
| to our old friend the gray frock coat and
| even morning coats are being made Of gray
| cashmere: but in a darker gray than the
| frock coat. The latter is OF a silvery tone.
| not too light a rule: there Is also a
| much lighter frock coat Of the pearly tone
| cnce SO extremely fashionable. This frock
| coat Is cut fuller than recent black ones
| and the length is only to the knee. 1t is
| worn open, but with twin button in the
top buttonholes to keep it together out of
doors. The neck opening of this and of all
! coats and waistcoats is slightly lower The
| skirts are only of moderate fulness; the
| buttons are covered with the cashmere of
the garment itself. and the facings are of
very fine twill silk The waistcoat and
trousers match the coat (although a Hol-
| land waistcoat. double breasted and with a
| large collar, can be worm. Where the
| waistcoat matches the coat it is single
| breasted and has only a small collar The
| knee. slightly fuller above it. The same
rules, mutatis mutand;s, apply to the gray
| morning outfit.
A Novelty in Coats.
These. as L have indicated. are the regu-
lar rules. But there Is novelty. not Yet
fully introduced but worthy of notice
which 1 must describe. 1t is very smart
and decidedly exclusive. and 1t will never