The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-03-09

AXIS, rep. Zine uenlSed-
son tailor made toilets ex-
hibit no striking novelties.
- That the Louis XIV. models
81 are to be followed is defin-
itely settled. All that re-
mains is to decide upon
what colors or materials we
shall accept for our garments. Wood
brown, gray, black and dark blue seem to
be the colors likely to be adopted for
street wear. Tibet cloths broadcloths,
cheviots, homespuns, vOiles, Examines and
tweeds are most suitable for early spring
gowns
Gallons are positively assured or favor
on wooden robes. Horsehair braids,
either plain, shaded or Variegated, are
used in the decoration of the more ser
viseable outdoor costumes, and hint
of gold or silver is not infrequently
added to the adornment of the garments.
The exaggerated simplicity of the tai
!ored gowns is particularly conspicuous
The skirts are cut to fit close over the
hips, and, with mermaidlike snugness
descend to a point little below the
knees, where a decided flare is in order
This sometimes take the form of a
single founce, while, again it is devel-
oped INTO two hounces outlined around
the edges IN a narrow cut out design
over silk, or finished with a slender braid
brown are the smart colors for tailored
Grocks.
The round bolero jackets encircling the
arms are not to be found. If any bo-
Zero is used it consists of a wide band,
brought around the chest and buttOned
in front Some of these chest protectors
Cfor that is what they look like are con-
nected to the waist by stitched bands
held at the extremity by a jeweled but
ton. They thus form a latticework over
the silk or lace underbodice. The mar
row coats themselves are never adorned
with any mere decided trimming that a
fine stitching or an application of strap
ped bands Strapped bands are wider and
more elaborate than ever, in some in
stances taking the place of fancy braids
A promenade gown of wood brown cloth
was cut with a short coat pointed in
front and ending at the waist line, the
waistcoat being covered with ecru lace
and the collar and revers with stitched
bands edged with a narrow black and
white cording. The seams Of the jacket
in the back were covered by strappings
brought below the waist line to outline a
Louis XIV. coat The skirt was made
with a full flare around the lower part
where two narrow flounces were applied
These were shaped and were quite plain,
being trimmed only with an edging of
the black and white silk cord. The
sleeves, which were fairly well fitted to
the arms, exhibited 10 novelties either in
cut or trimming.
Lace is used for the handsome collars,
resembling yokes, which are put on dem
idress toilets. The laces most used are
Irish, guipure and Venetian point. Smart
gowns of silk embroidered cloth, crepe
de Paris eolienne, wolfe and etamine are
handsomely trimmed with lace. Some>
times a fiounce of it is coquettishly inset
into the skirt, or pieces Of f1ouncing are
so set between plaits that they suggest
an underf1ounce of lace. PasteI cloths
are still worn by the conservatives, who
stick to what is becoming and ignore the
new and bizarre.
A decidedly smart costume has been
ordered at one of the fashionable dress
makers for a London beauty, whose blond
charms will be well set on against the
pastel blue of the cloth, bordered with
stitched bands Of panne a shade darker.
These bands of dark pIue are cut in
scrolls and trimmed with small steel but
tons. The coat opens over a blouse of
white and a waistcoat of pink silk which
is closed with steel buttons A lace yoke
appears above the vest. I mis- is of white
guipure laid over blue satin. The sleeves
are cut open at the elbow to show a
putting of pink silk, while at the edges
tLey are bordered with bands of the
dark blue. The long basque is cut in a
point and trimmed with the scrolled
bands which also outline a fiounce upon
the skirt Double bands supply a collar
about the coat.
Narrow plaits are used in the construc-
ticn of ffounces in a way that wi prove
highly disturbing. to the amateur dress
maker for such founces are extremely
difficult to adjust with the nicely nee
essary to supply a smart finish to a skirt.
A pretty colored camels hair, set off by
pink brocade, demonstrated this. The
short jacket, gathered in at the waist by
band of the brocade, was furnished
with a narrow brocaded collar and re-
vers. Turned back cuffs and puffs COM
pleted the jacket trimming The back
showed a moderately pronounced speci-
men of postillion. and the soft white
blouse was knotted with deep and full
Se Of pink. The plated fiounce, which