The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-09-06


is not so perishable as we are apt to think
and will endure much usage; but, however
far or however little this is true, the fact
that IL is to be much worn remains. Where
the material is mixed or shows plaid the
waist matches some one shade, where 1t is
plain the chiffon is of the same color If
crushed silk with the elaborate slides al
ready mentioned at the back and narrow
clasps at the front or are held by in
visible fastenings at one side. Never has
such variety been offered. AS just re-
turned buyer said to me to-day, there are
so many designs. so many variations, there
is so much latitude allowed individual
taste il is exceedingly difficult to make
any exact statements except the general
ones of much-fiared skirts, these matching
waists and innumerable plaits
MATERIALS MOST FAVORED.
In addition to the fascinating rough and
long haired novelties and the always good
fine cloths. velvet and velveteen. both plain
and dotted. are promised great vogue and
will be much worn. both in tailor and less
severe styles. most notable costume of
velvet is in black with tiny pin dots of
white. The skirt is exceedingly novel and
is all box-plaited, but is cut circular and
is so planned that there is absolutely no
fullness over the hips. the plaits being
formed just below that point and being
shallow in the extreme while they acquire
both depth and width as they approach
the floor. The coat is a blouse that is box
plated at both front and back and slightly
open at the neck where Ii is finished with
a big collar of white satin-faced cloth en-
broidered with black The sleeves are
snug, but at that point they are enlarged
and finished with Follower cuffs of the
white cloth, while below them fall full
bishop puffs of plain black cloth with
single band of white cloth, cut in waved
outline and finished with three tiny bands
Of black set on edge. midway of each. Be
meath the coat is worn bodice of white
chiffon with yoke of cream lace, which last
is visible at the open neck of the blouse.
Later, when warmth becomes a need, a
soft fluffy boa of feathers will be worn
over the shoulders and about the throat.
For visiting, receptions and all func-
lions attended in carriages long coats Of
delicately colored cloths correct and
will be much seen. They are loose, ample,
with big sleeves, that allow of slipping
on and off with ease, and in every way
satisfactory, both to the wearer and the
lines are fascinating to look upon, while
their form makes them ideally comfortable
at the same time. AS a rule they are
lined with white silk although pale har-
monizing tints are used. Later the same
designs in white will serve for wraps
worn en- route to opera and balls, and it Is
rumored that with them will be seen err
mine and other white furs, but it Is far
| too early to speak either with authority or
| interest of furs either for evening or day.
time wear. 1t is true that ermine stoles
| and capes have been worn over dancing
| gowns the summer through, but because
| the season has been an unusual one and
allowed abnormal conditions does not
prove furs to be an acceptable topic in
| bright, sunshiny September weather. A
bit later / will discuss them at length.
Just now what interests us most are those
weeks, and among them know of moth
| ing more sure CT welcome than the new
shirtwaists. L will tell you Of those, then
| cease for the week.
| THE NEW SHIRTwAISTS.
The new flannel ones have appeared and
are at once so SOFT so pliable. so delicate,
| the name seems almost a misnomer. In
addition to the familiar lightweight French
sort delicate basket weaves, both plain
and striped, crepe fiannels and finest, soft
est plain ones with embroidery of many
sorts. Later. no doubt, we shall see waist
cloths of many weights and varieties and
both Henrietta and albatross in new colors
and designs, but for the present these new
| fannels fill the eye and supply every need.
| Among them are many whites, much warm
| rich red, lovely new greens and some ex-
quisite neutral tones. grays, tans, casters,
| that are simply perfect in tone. The waists
| shown by a leading designer, who is held an
authority, are simple in cut and make, as
shirtwaists should be. and uniformly in
| clude the regulation short sleeves and Guns
| although these last vary from two to
two and half inches in width. Prevail
ing styles i'm tailored waists are closed al
the front, but the emergencies of embroid-
cred materials have brought about some
few that are buttoned invisibly at the
back. Plain materials are seen with va
riously tucked backs, but all-over embroid
cries are made plain out of Difference tc
their beauty. most tasteful model shows
small conventional figure in blue and
black on white and is made with three
tucks at each side of the neck and a plair
back. Another shows tiny flower or
white, blue, green, black and tan and Ii
made up in much the same way. Plair
colors show the same tucks or plaits. but
backs that are tucked to give a boz
plated effect in place of being plain. Some
of the handsomest of all are the waist.
showing embroidered fronts only, the EN-
broidery being worked to suit the require
ments of the waist, and include plain back:
When the design allows they close at the
front through regulation box plat. 9th
erwise the closing is at the back beneath
a central tuck. In the former case th'
tuckS are tiny, some arranged in groups
some to give the effect of box plaits ex
tending across the entire back, but wher'
the closing Is to be concealed the group:
are preferred. Buttons of white pear
for the more delicate colors, gilt for tn,
darker ones and are about as big as
10-cent piece. while those on the sleeves
match, but are smaller. The embroidered
effects are new and exceedingly handsome
while eminently we'll suited to their use
Many of the plain colors are exquisite anC
include variety of shades The newer
basket weaves and crepe flannel are charm
ing and will add materially to the comfor
as we'll as to the beauty of the season I,
come. They are lighter than flannel of tn,
accepted sort, yet retain much of its quail
ity and offer wide range of shades an,
combinations. Vertical stripes are Away
becoming. The pale blues, pastel pink
and green's and rich reds on white are
pleasure to look upon and are liable to b.
much seen. AS a matter of course tn
waists must fit well. We hear much tall
of the simplicity of shirtwasts, but, il
common with many another apparent,
simple thing, their perfect state require
art and care. Well cut, well shaped, care
fully adjusted they must be- or style will
be lacking, let the material be what it may
MAY MANTON