The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-02-16

Charles I model, which looks like bishop,
but is tight at the top and very full when
It reaches the wrist. The top usually is
fitted with a sleeve cap or band of some
kind. But it is hopeless to try to list the
permitted sorts. Anything will pass muster
provided it does not puff out directly at the
top. Here the sleeves must fit fiat. All kinds
OF fancy undersleeves and puffs are still
worn, and the fancy elbow sleeve ending in
a series of puffs is worn. Trimming of all
kinds is permissible. and tucking gather
ing and shocking are used a great deal
The long, tight dress sleeve ending in a
point over the hand is found now and
again, but most women go in for a fancy
sleeve of some kind. Bishop sleeves are
used. but are not as large around the wrist
They fit more snugly and the tiny puff
seems more dainty in consequence.
Blouse basque coats and tight-fitting
three-quarter jackets will be stylish for
spring. They are found in all light cloths
zibelines, Scotch tweeds and cheviots as
well in the lightweight materials Many
are trimmed with stitched silk bands to
match the color of the costume, and these
are very dressy. Princess gowns, which are
numerous, are deliberately trimmed, too
with narrow braid or stitched bands of silk
skeleton boleros worn so much last spring
will be revived. These are trimmed with
bands of silk, velvet or stitching Lace is
put on a great many new spring cloth
gowns, but not in such quantities as will be
seen later on summer get-ups Light trans
parent cloths are tucked to a great extent
and trimmed with medallons of cream or
white lace ard applique bands of the same
The goods is cut out to show the silk foun-
dation, which is white in many cases. Some
of these dresses are finished at the hem
with several half-inch tucks.
Not few of the foregoing points, with
some others, appear in the four spring
street gowns the artist has put in her first
two pictures. In the initial picture is one
of the new princess suits. biscuit zibeline
with narrow brown silk soutache trim
ming. Bands Of the goods were finished
with braid and gilt buttons over the
shoulders was drapery of white silk Max
ers who follow closely imported princess
models have them loose in front below the
bust line, but accurate to mt above that
and in the back of the bodice portion. The
latter sort is more strikingIy new, but the
other is prettier and new enough, it would
seem, for sensible women. One of the styl-
ish blouse coats appears at the left in the
group. 1t was biege canvas cloth, pleated,
trimmed with bands of taffeta matching
the goods in color, and finished with a
white silk front. Piping of taffeta appeared
on triple collar and double basque. What
In the spring fashions is styled the three
quarter coat is shown by the next figure.
This one was dull blue Scotch tweed with
cream lace collar and black velvet belt A
pretty use of colored velvet trimming is
in no frd Of
dress goods was delicate gray, lightweight
broadcloth, the velvet sage green. The
trimming was handsome a forceful argu-
ment for replacing the abundant and time
worn black velvet garnitures, by similar
trimmings of gayer hues-
Reverings in white and biscuit shades are
very pretty. They make up charmingly in
shirtwaists and gowns, or may be used as
yokes, sleeve puffs or collars Some are
very sheer, while others are rather heavy,
the heavier weights being more desirable
for waists. All kinds of sheer wash fabrics
will be fashionable in shirtwaists, and
colored corset cover beneath will be permits
sible. The new challies are beautiful in
design and texture. many at a short dis
tance resembling silk. The satin stripe is
still found among them, but small, dainty
designs are especially pretty. These come
in white and delicate tinted grounds and in
several shades of red. Black and white
combinations in this material are abundant
and pretty. Challie will be worn very fire.
quently for summer. as we'll as for house
gowns and separate waists.
House dresses are made Of almost any
material these days, yet not in almost any
old way. mind you. They show much di-
versity some being remarkably plain, 9TH
tire. Yet. simple or complex. the fashion
able ones are the result of careful plan
ming Their skirts are made FULL many
without any trimming whatever. but the
bodices are nearly always trimmed in some
fashion or other Lace is used freely. and
so is bright colored velvet in tiny bands.
IN no particular of these dresses is there
greater diversity than In sleeves. These
may be of the most simple or of the most
fanciful sort with all midway grades rep
resented. Three pretty house dresses make
up the top row in the next picture. First
comes a pale blue silk crepe de chine.
trimmed with silver sCquins. hemstitching
spangled lace. tucking and blue velvet.
Next is a pale green eolienne cloth. with
vest of white MORE silk banded with black
velvet, and "A triple collar outlined with
lace. Last Il a dress OF cream albatross,
cream lace white chiffon and pink velvet
BY the time shirtwaists are worn gener-
ally outdoors. il is likely that the skeleton
bolero in one or all its forms will be very
numerous. Though made simply, its newer
forms have a good degree of jauntiness,
and from the hands of really good tailors
II is a triumph OF fl. Really when a girl
buttons uD her perfection "skeI' jacket
IT Is all she can do TO wiggle her shoulder
blades. One of these garments is shown
here II was sketched in bright red cheviot
and darker red velvet In the shirtwaists
that GO with such jackets, tailors are as
exacting as be. The point they are
bearing upon hard is the broad shoulder
effect. which is emphasized by one. two or
three Dleats turning hack. Heavy cotton
materials in basket weave and glossy finish
are made Up in this way for present use.
Some are trimmed down the front and on
the CUTS with embroidery. while others are
quite plain, with stitching only for finish.
The shoulder pleat extending to the waist
line is sometimes put in with an open