Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1902-07-08
THIS is A YEAR FOR sHAWLS.
Not to Keep the Summer Girl Warm
but for Looks Sake.

ShaWls and scarves are no part OF the
athletic girls armor. How could shawd
cling gracefully to the tailor-made gown.
And what scarf could do itself justice IL
called upon to keep company with SHORT
skirt and shirt waistf
The two dress accessories beiong 10 uli
compromisingly to frills and fiounces ana
the mysterious feminineJ Since the atm
letic girl has held the field they nave Deeh
laid away on top shelves ana IN 1orsotte1
trunks and have queened it only IN oid
hook illustrations and around the
shoulders of dead and gone peautles ~
family portraits.
But now another day has rolled around
for them. A new girl is in the field. Our
eat-grandfathers would find her less
dsconcerting than the boyish young wo-
man of past seasons. she Is OF urooPiiis
curves. Her gowns are soft ana cilhsillS
and dainty They break into biliowlnS
foam of lace and muslin around her feet
feet that. clad in the finest, most elapor
ate of silk stockings and the most pc,
witching OF hiSh-heeled Dig pucklea
shoes, deserve better things than hidlnS.
She affects diaphanous fabrics ana mower
garlands and fichus and streaming sashes.
She looks out from Under broad, droopllS
hat brims, flower-laden.. she consul lls
beauty specialists and abjures the tan ana
freckles of which she was once absolutely
proud. She embodies all the personal at
tributes that men are accustomed 10 can
essentially feminine. And so, BENG WHAT
she is, she wears shaWls-
There are shawls, and shaWls. Inc
Paisley shawl isn't beloved of TINS sea-
sons summer girl, and she sh SoeSh sSe
would even scorn the old fashioned lace
shawl, unless she We're allowed to cut 1t
up into f1ounces and applique.
Go into any swell dry goods shop ana
ask for shawls. A young woman, more
or less gracious, will show you heaps up
on heaps of soft shmmering stun, STRIPS
of material of varying width ana length
but never square or approaching square
ness, and when you say as you probably
will: but these are scarves. the supe-
rior young person will allow an express
sion of infinite fatigue to steal over Ier
speaking countenance:
"These are the seasons shaWls,
Madame, the very latest. You We're not
| thinking of wearing anything different
We're your
You were not In trembling haste you
VOW it. and you buy what you call
scarf, but you don't call it that in the
hearing of the "saleslady."
If you really yearn for an old-ume
shawl of generous amplitude, and are not
easily crushed, you may find embroidered
shawls of Chinese crepe, which are selling
better this season tnan they have in many
years, but what you actually need IS d
scarf.
You can find it in almost any material
| and in almost any price, and the 1ash-
| ionable woman does not limit her puc-
chase to one, but has what she prefers to
call an 'echarpe' for any ana every
toilet There is something distinctly
fetching in a fimy, delicately tinted it's
sue clinging around sloping shoulders ana
fioat ting friVolousiy on every breeze. Not
every woman can iend herself to the
effect, but if she is built upon echarpe
| lines, she can do wonders with one OF the
becoming, irrepressible, frivolous things,
and the weaving may be raised TO the
level of high art.
In echarpes. as in every other detail of
toilet lace is queen regnant, though, on
the whole scarf of lace is not always
effective becoming one of cnlttOl,
| mousseline or Gauze in delicate color.
Our old friend, Spanish lace, 50 long dis
carded. finds chance for triumphal re-
entry in the scarf, and is taking advant-
age of the opportunity. For from SD 10
$40 one can buy most attractive echarpe
of either white or black Spanish lace,
broad enough and long enough TO meet
fashions requirement A very narrow
scarf will not do. 1t must be broad
enough to drape gracefully about the
shoulders and long enough to fail in long,
graceful lines.
Chantily lace is also favored for the
echarpes and. in many cases, white and
black chantilly are mingled, designs in
| the black lace being appliqued upon
scarf of white.
The scarf par excellence is of fine needle
point, and their price scars according to
the within and income of the buyer For
$40 one can buy very beautiful scarf
shawl in applique point, but i'll rose point
and its peers the price runs up well INTO
the hundreds.
More youthful than the lace and ex-
quisitely effective are the scarfs of Chiffon
and mousseiine. They may be as plain
or elaborate as one chooses, but always
they must be full. long, floating.
Even when perfectly plain and finished
with hemstitch they are charming. y
narrow applique edge of lace makes them
still daintier. Some Of them are elabor-
ately incrusted with lace. Others are
scattered with Garlands of flowers or
loosely strewn blossoms painted in water
Ff1nr tft.hA ~ ~ n
fined to the scarf ends; sometimes 1t
borders the scarf; sometimes it wanders
|all over the sheer cleaning surface. And,
by the way. there are painted chiffonS
and mousseines with soft blurred flower
effects on faint background that makes
beautifully artistic ccharpes without even
One such scarf in creamy chiffon overrun
with trailing yellow honeysuckle is a de-
i mpo 81 f by e Fth a eys
maker, but in this case the chif
fon has a scalloped border Of applied lace
and tiny lace medallions inside the seal
lops.
Crepe is much used for echarpes and
of course is more substantial than chiffon
or moUsseline or lace. 1t clings sofly
round the shoulders, but lacks one ad
its ends hang more heavily and do not
give the airy floating effect so much de-
sired.
Silks of various kinds are made into
llleSe SHAWL starts ana Olleu IillSHCu
merely with fringed edges.
For greater warmth and actual service
come double shawls of silk or feecy light
weight wool, but folded to keep the scarf
shape. They are made narrower than
scarfs of lighter fabric; because they will
not crush into such mass of soft folds.
"Fichus" are shown along with the
scarfs-not fchus to complete n frock
bodice, but sc&rfS in fichu shape and
edged with narrow frills, to be worn as
are the echarpes, for a shoulder wrap.
They, too, are in chiffon and mousseline
and lace, and some of the prettiest are of
cream net with a legion of little lace
edged frills that pour down the front Of
a gown, almost to the hem, like "a foam
ing cascade.
After these come the host of wonderful
fiat lace and chiffon ruches, but they are
quite different thing, intended essential
ly for wear with hats, whil- the echarpe
and its cousin fichu are as appropriate
around bare shoulders at dinner table
or in a ballroom as in a carriage or at d
theatre.
The Algerian shawis are especially at
traotive this season, and combine beauty |
and service, though of course they are
not in the class dignified by French dress |
makers with the name echarpe. They are
in scarf shape with white silk or a very |
light lose woven white wool ground, |
crossed by silk stripes in the softest lines.
and are quite lovely enough for summer |
ana hammocks.