The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1902-10-27
A TRIP INTO
The unknown.
Reconnaissance from Fort Ham,
lin to Kotzebue Sound.
Report of Walter G.. MendenhalI
Of Geological Survey.
LIVES ARE BEING LOST
On Account of Previous Lack of
Information.
Physical Features of Alaska
North of the Yukon.

Washington, Oct. 27.-Professional
Paper United States Geological Survey
No. 10. now in press. consists OF an
illustrated report by Mr. Walter c. Men
denhall Of a reconnaissance from Fort
Hamlin to Kotzebue Sound. Alaska by
way of Dali. Kanuti. Allen and kobuk
rivers. This reconnaissance, says Mr.
Mendenhan was carried out in pursu-
ance of a plan which has been followed
for some years by the United States
geological survey in the topographic and
geologic exploration of the little known
parts of Alaska, and in the collection of
such information as will be of value not
only to the scientific world, but to tbs
prcspector, the miner, and the trader.
Lives are being continually lost be-
cause the location and character of
trails. drainage ways, mountain ranges
and passes are unknown, or because the
knowledge which a few possess is not
in a form available for the use of 9TH
ers Capital disappears, and years are
wasted by prospectors who push out
beyond the frontier and pursue their
search for gold where gold does not
exist.
Gradually the great waterways and
mountain systems are being mapped,
and reliable Information is being gath
cred concerning the distribution of tim
Der, the numbers and character of the
native inhabitants and the presence or
absence Of game-all matters of vital
interest to the traveller who, VIVA teVer
MS ODJecl, ventures away from the great
central waterway of the Yukon or from
the fur trading stations on other
streams.
The route was from Seattle, about the
middle of May. 1901. to SlIagway at the
head of Lynn canal; thence to Dawson,
Fort Yukon and Fort Hamlin, and on
up the Dali river to Dali City; thence
across to and down the Kanuti river to
Bergman on the Koyukuk; thence into
and up the Allen river and across the
portage to the Kobuk river, down the
KObuk to KOtzebue Sound, and back by
steamer from Nome to Seattle about the
middle of October. The distance trav-
eled from Fort Yukon. on the Yukon
river. to Deering on Kotzebue Sound,
was 11e9 miles.
The region under consideration first
became definitely known to Europeans
through the voyage of Lieutenant Otto
Won KOtzebue, German in the Russian
service, who, while in command of the
brig Rurik discovered Kotzebue Sound
in 1916. Since then number of expedi-
tons along the coast and into the in
terror of the region have been made, in
Guiding the remarkable mid-winter
journey of 500 miles from the coast
north of Bristol Bay to Point Barrow,
made in 1S97-9S by Lieutenant Jarvis
and Bertholf and DR.. Call. of the reve-
nue. cutter Bear. for the relief of
Whalers imprisoned at Point Barrow.
The most important physical features
of that part of Alaska lying north of
the Yukon is a great mountain range,
1000 feet high, extending from the
Arctic coast just north of Kotzebue
Sound eastward and northeastward to
and beyond the international boundary
between the POrcupine river and the
Arctic ocean. North of this range the
cold arctic storms may be expected a
any time throughout the year: south Of
It, the summers are hot and bright.
though short. North CT the range the
country is timberless; south of it trees
are more or less abundant throughout
the river valleys. The Endicott noun
tains form a general divide between the
arctic drainage proper and the rivers
flowing into Boring sea and Kotzebue
Sound, the largest of which is tbs
Koyukuk. about 700 miles long
After discussing the LEGAL geography
and the geology, and noting that the
country between the Yukon and Koyu-
kuk is free from all evidences OF glacial
action, the report takes up briefly the
economic geology of the region An
eleven foot bed of Ignite coal is found
on OCal creek, about one mile above
Its entrance into Dali river of which
four or five feet are apparently of good
quality. The outcrOpS of lignites along
the banks of the Kobuk are from six
Inches to three feet in thickness. and
are probably valueless economicalIv
The reports of the occurrence of coal
elsewhere In the region are as yet I'M
confirmed. Prospecting for gold on the
Dali, the Allen, the Noatak, and the
Kobuk rivers has so far failed to de-
Some D
GOO of gold was taken out of the Kotze-
bue Sound district in the late summer
OF 1901, but another seasons work will
be required to give any proper idea of
the richness of the Candle creek dis
trict.
At the mouth of the Dali river is a
settlement of Yukon Indians who are
prone to decline to work for strangers
even at IS a day, unless they are in need
Of supplies. On the Kanuti river is a
similar fishing settlement of perhaps IS
Koyulkuk Indians. who exchange game
and sur with the traders or work for
the Koyukuk miners. Much the most
enterDrising and reliable of the native
peoples encountered are the Eskimos
Of the Kobuk valley. some $50 in num-
Der in 1901 who proved Themselves
efficient laborers and seem inteI1frent
and initiative and anxious to learn Eng
lish and civilized ways.
Winter temperature of so or 20 de-
EreeS below zero are reached for a feW
DAYS at q time in this interior region
adjacent to the arctic circle. but durin.s
these severely cold periods it is usually
times are those of higher temporary lI .
and wind. At such times man cannot
face the gales and live. The summers
are short, but warm enough to be pleas
ant, the months from tie middle of June
to the middle of September being avail
able for travel by the waterways or for
prospecting. The mosquitoes and the
gnats are well nigh Intolerable NUS
ances during the summer.
Salmon was the main food of the natives
living on the Koyukuk and the Kobuk pe-
fore the arrival of the traders with their
stores Waterfowl are plentiful along oil
Of the streams, since they breed in great
numbers in the lakes and ponds of the
tundra. Geese, ducks and ptarmigan are
numerous.
Caribou are found in the region about
the head Of Kaputi river: few mountain
sheep are IN the higher country: black
bear are distributed throughout the dis
trict: moose are rare. being found chiefly
toward the south and east in the Yukon
drainage basin: smaller animals are plen-
tiful in certain localities
Spruces. cottonwoods. birches and will
lows are generally found al the lower Low