The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-07-20
MEXICAN
People Used to Ii Don't Like the
American Sort.
Mexican Herald.

Americans living here for some time fin. that
the climate has an influence on their palates,
ana that they can eat many 'piatos naeionales'
and there is a variety Of sweetmeats, such as
or. getting their carbon preferably from sugary
foods rather than from fat. The Mexican palate
has to have a foreign education really to like
pickles. which all Americans appear to crave.
SO exotic are pickles that the Spanish name
''encurtidos'' has given place TO '~peekles" by
which even the Spanish shopkeepers know them
best. There Is a growing demand here among
the Mexican people OF the better class for oat-
meal and other American cereals. physicians
recommending them for anemic people and for
delicate children.
In a cosmopolitan city like this there is a give
and take in dishes, and so II comes about that IN
many households Mexican, French and American
culinary preparations come on the table. The
cooks who succeed one another in the city res
IN Of fare Tbe result is that the distinct i iv eTs
places remote from the capital.
There are many MeXicans. especially women.
who 60 rot like foreign cooking, and some Of
them. travelling in the United States. have been
known to regard with something like adherence
mothing TO eat in the United states" say these
periodically prejudiced women. Mexican dishes
p.qusRt with pepper. When one has $ grown : = a :
customed TO the best Mexican cooking American
dishes seem insipi0. Not a few Anglo-Saxon
residents complain that when they go home on a
visit they md the cuisine very tame
The best Mexican cooks. who have inherited
the old traditions. keep up many Of the old
Spanish dishes and 1t is fortunate that the
spanish ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS treaty. a Moorish
meatbalD has been retained. Ii is not the taste
less concoction Of the careless American cook.
but Is an artistic compound, with spices and de-
hghtful sauces. varying in color and flavor ac-
cording 10 taste. Rice in the Valencian style
Is very Spanish. and few cooks prepare il We'll.
When an old-fashioned Mexican cook. such as
may be found In fine old families. presents a
dish OF "arrOz a la valenciana.' then you have
a true Sourmet's delicacy. worthy OF Brillat
SaVarin himself.
As for sweetmeats. old-fashioned and wealthy
families keep up the Arabian custom OF having
manT on the dinner table. sometimes half a
dozen distinct kinds. There are good house
keepers who can make several hundred va
Is a most difficult one. The best Mexican famf-
lies live we'll. spending lavishly on the table.
and women in country houses. the men away.
sit down az noon 10 dinners Of many courses.
ton: in this lavish land people Of means like
10 have a well-supplied table.
In many a hacienda house the table Is set
out abundantly. and the cooking Is most sppe-
cooks who are indeed Jewels" possessed OF
culinary lore and proud to exercise their art.
And II r. cause for philosophic meditation
that so many OF the dishes introduced into
nary traditions from the Saracens and Per
slams. a. well as their architecture. should
still survive In this pleasant land OF Mexico.
Arabic names persist in all our kitchens here
20 suggest the Moors and their wonderful cIvf-
lZatl0n. Some day an enthusiast will appear
who viii make a book about the influence OF
the Moors on the Latin-American cuisine. which
the lower tropics by the profession of distinctive
Is American roots. herbs and fruits IL Il a
fertile theme. we'll worthy o. Investigation. and
FAR more important than grave dissertatfogs
times a day. international Law Is an Abstraction
remote from our daily lives.