davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The courier., 1902-06-28
T He COU R I E r

belt Of pink with a short wide sash at
the back. The sleeves ended above the
elbow with pointed lace frills falling
almost to the wrist.
A unique hat completed this toilette.
1t was a flaring, wide-brimmed affair
wire frame. The idea seemed to be to
copy a flower, with petals of lace.
Foliage formed the calyx or crown of
the inverted blossom. A cluster of
blush roses was tucked under the left
side Of the brim.
Nearly all Of the white crepes de
chine, which adapt themselves so well
to the lines Of the figure and to all
sorts of trimmings and lace combina-
tions, show tucks in some form or
other, and white or black lace trimmed
hats are worn with them. Only one
woman appeared decollete at Sherry's
on Sunday, and she did not seem par
ticularly well pleased with herself.
She occupied the most conspicuous
table in the main hall of entrance, with
her handsome husband and a man
friend. Her gown was white, and was
cut with very low, square effect,
front and back. 1t was simply trimmed,
and had elbow sleeves with flounces.
Her hat was black and huge, with a
broad dropping brim. Two long, mar
row buckles ornamented the low crown,
from one of which fell a long black
plume.
The show of jewels was extraordinary,
and In more than one instance vulgar.
A young woman, clad sumptuously in
heavy Russian lace and wearing a
headdress Of yellow, with a great bird
Of Paradise and long, yellow feathers
dropping over the wearer's left shoul-
der. displayed a diamond necklace and
a huge diamond watch-pin attached.
The girl. who was pretty enough to
have known better, also exhibited a
double lorgpette chain of diamonds
over the front of her bodice
The western contingent, which was
out in force, was not behind in the dis
play Of jewels. A painfully slim young
Chicago matron, who wore pale blue
crepe de chine with white lace postil-
lion tabs, not only on the back of the
bodice, where they belong, but scat
tered about the skirt and sleeves, with
novel effect, was ablaze with diamonds.
One Of the latest fads Of the economists
is to have their jewelry made up with
real diamonds, but with imitation COL
ored stones. This materially lessons
be detected.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-12-27
THE OLD-T|ME PLA|DS
Soaring in Fashions Man
dates at Present.
CALLED"TA RTANS"NOW
FETCHING DRESSES FOR GROWN
UPS AND YOUNG FOLKS.
Suggestions for Smart Skating Cos
tunes and for Street and
House
CALLED''TARTAN NOW


NEW YORK. December %, 1902.
The old-fashioned plaids have come in
again under the new and more elegant title
of "tartans." Trimmed with plain cloth or
velvet, in the color dominant in the gown
stuff, some entire plaid costumes in soft
woods are seen. They are used mainly for
walking purposes. When well made they
are fetching on slim, graceful figures, but
since the majority of the plaids are very
large they have contrary effect on short,
stout wearers. making them seem both
awkward and badly gOwned.
The sharp line between the right and the
wrong thing can be drawn only by the indf-
vidual A style may be new and fashion
able, but we should think well before we
adopt it for ourselves. Far better effects
are often obtained with things which have
grown the honorable fungus of time than
with novelty which renders us ridiculous
For those who can carry them OF with
distinction. the wool tartans reproducing the
markings of the Scotch clans are very beau
tiful. The original colorings are usually too
crude for imitation, though some gay silks
and velvets employed for shirt waists dis
play the more harmonious combinations of
the real tartanS. These shirt waists, with
durable suit gowns for accompaniment, are
worn by stylish shoppers, who, If the shirt
is of velvet, sometimes introduce a frag
ment Of the same material in the trim tailor
hat. Sometimes the crown is of the plaid,
sometimes the puffed brim, the hat itself
usually taking a fiat toque shape.
For School Wear.
Charming costumes for school girls are
made of both velvet and wool tartans with
shaped box peats distinguishing the skirts
of many. A plaid wool gown, with mark
ings of black over distinct stripes of al
ternate blue and white, displays these
pleats, which meet a plain upper portion
at the flounce quarter of the skirt. The
bodice is in blouse shape, with the new bag
Ky sleeves and a highly ornamental stole
collar of blue velvet and white cloth. Large
sapphire buttons, with gunmetal settings
ornament the stole band. and everywhere
the gown stuff is cut bias, which is a device
for relieving the awkwardness of the big
plaid.
Velvet and velveteen braid or cloth trim
med, are other walking materials much in
favor. rich fur bands and furry accesso-
ries setting off the smartest costumes
For the high dress of young girls, for
visiting, theater, concert and opera wear
nothing is considered more elegant than
these textures. Velvet gowns for such
wearers, however. are rather simply made
feet than elaborate details. White lace or
satin vests. the last embroidered in delicate
colors and moderate use of the new gem
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-12-27
THE THEATER TALKER.
Showing How a Little Wit Suppressed
an Intolerable Nuisance.

From the New York Mall and Express.
They had been reading a Roife annotated
edition of the play, and there was nothing
in Julius Caesar that they were not per-
fectly familiar with. Before the perform
ance was half through there was nothing
that they knew which everybody within
half a dozen rows did not hear about; for
among the three of them-a man and two
women-there were such capacities for
nowhere except in a theater.
In tones that alternately Missed and
brayed and rasped till spinal columns all
j az ound them ached they told one another
that Antony was much better done than
Brutus that Portia would come on in a
minute in the garden scene; that Casca
was supposed to be a grGf old Roman;
that Caesar actually did have fits-think
of it! that it was a pity Ghis in a whisper
that shivered far down the aisle and splin-
tered at least score of vertebrae) Roman
ladies didn't wear corsets. So on, ad nau-
seam.
At last the ghost and the distra0ght
lence in all the crowded house save In
row Q, where a strident voice complained:
81 can't hear word the ghost says.
Why doesn't he speak louder!
A man behind the querulous dsturber,
quite beside himself with rage, leaned for
ward and said in tones as courteously
sweet as the sting of honey bee:
"Perhaps the ghost is a gentleman, and
does not like to annoy people"
Which, of course, was very rude, though
II did fill many hearts with unholy joy.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-12-27
WHEAT AND COTTON.
Efforts of Great Britain and Germany
to Produce Staples.
From the New York Sun.

From the New York Sun.
Among the most remarkable movements
of our time on the part of the principal in
are their efforts to free themselves from
dependence on outsiders for their food sup
plies and the raw material for manufacture
ing. Chief among these are wheat and cot
ton, and the two countries that are giving
the most attention to the subject are Eng
land and Germany.
For some time India afforded a respecta-
BILE supply Of cotton. To increase the reve-
nue. the Indian government put an import
duty of per cent on manufactured cotton,
but the cutlery raised in Lancashire brought
pressure from the British government and
a per cent export duty was imposed on
Indian-made cotton, with disastrous results
to the Indian cotton mill owners, many of
whom have had to go into liquidation. The
increase of raw cotton exports from India
Is, therefore probable.
Then as to wheat it is anticipated that
Egypt will become prominent factor in
supplying the English market. Sir William
Garstin. reporting on the capabilities of the
Upper Nile country, which is under direct
British control, wrote that the soil of the
immense tracts on either side of the Blue
Nile known the districts Of Ghedaref and
Ghezira, much resembles that of those parts
of India that produce the finest wheat.
These new wheatfields are not, however, the
only ones about being developed under Brit
ish control. Since 1891 the British political
officer directing the affairs Of the Shan
states in northern Burma, has introduced
the cultivation of wheat into that region,
where the grain was previously unknown.
The result has been so satisfactory that the
question of building railway to convey the
wheat to Rangoon is being discussed.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-12-27

one instance With black and sapphire
embroideres it made a stole collar and
cuffs for a French gown in dark blue cloth.
The blue of the needlework appeared in
large ovalS set under diamond perforations
in the kid, black needlework framing them.
The result was beautiful, the sapphire
ovals showing up with almost as much
brilliance as their precious namesalses.
Fur yokes show in a few of the hand
somer street gowns, with which fur-trim-
med hats and large muffs are smart details.
For Bud to Go Skating.
Such combination is seen in a delightful
little skating costume recently turned out
for bud of the season.
The icebound period in New York is a
limited one, but so much is this sport liked
by the "fashionabes'' that the winter skat-
ing Kinks are always well patronzed. The
exercise is undoubtedly good for young
bodies, and, since it affords opportunity for
a special style of costume, the monotony
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-12-27

med buttons are often the only decorations
used. The model of the gown is in any of
the styles favored for maidenhood A
pleated or founced skirt and blouse
Jacket is eminently popular.
p smoke gray velvet skirt, lately worn in
Central Park by girl Of sixteen, combined
beautifully with jacket of broadtail. Pos
tillion tails In the same skin showed at the
back and a black satin belt. with dull sill
yer buckle set with cats eyes. girdled the
waist.
On this smart coat were seen the en-
broidered cloth bands which now smarter
the most elegant finery. Cut in narrow
biases. which edged the deep fur collar in
O single row and showed in several on the
sleeves. white cloth with black needlewor {
formed this effective trimming.
These band embroidered cloth trimmings
are used on gowns Of both cloth and velvet
and with almost all the street materials in
vogue.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-12-27
Pretty Neckwear.

Everywhere smart neck ruffs and dress
accessories are shown, and the girl that
cannot afford to buy them can at least pur-
chase the materials at the shop counters
and construct them. Collars of all the pop
ular laces are shown in abundance, and sets
for wraps and gowns are of rare beauty.
There are many new arrangements Of silk
in tafreta. shirred, appllqued and braided
The collarette and neck boa has become a
shoulder cape and has steadily heightened,
so that before long it will develop into a
garment that will reach to the elbow and
afford a degree Of comfort not hitherto pro-
duced. The present period of dress is one
In which light and delicate materials are
very much used. There Is great amount
of handwork and openwork effect, crochet,
entire deux, hemstitching, drawnwork and
every possible method Of leaving an aper-
ture in the construction of a garment.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-12-27
STREET CRIES IN CAIRO.
Sounds and Voices That Travellers
Hear in the Egyptian City.

From the London Traveller.
Take chair outside busy cafe near the
market place and tram center and watch
street life. There are no hungry men, no
starving pinched child faces no finger
worn mothers, for this is land Of plenty,
and the peoples wants are few and simple.
Thus sunshine and laughter spray a well
come fragrance over the novelty and ro-
nance Of the gay city's streets. Here is a
street melodist :wanging a monster one
stringed Something" and accompanied by
a nose-ringed girl who taps deity on a
species of tambourine, while bystanders
calculate Allah! Alahp-the Arabic word
for applause. If not quite in accord with
your prejudices concerning music, well,
maalaish (never mind). 1t is not nearly so
distracting as a street corner at home, and
they will go away if you tell them to- The
baboon, the donkey and boy are IN evil
dence, with score of performing tricks
that are very original and certainly funny,
and you console yourself with the hope of
a minimum of cruelty in the training
A fruit seller, basket on head, with lus-
cious grapes and figs saunters by singing
in quaint minor, 80 grapes, o sweet
grapes, that are larger than doves eggs
and sweeter than new cream! o angels
food, delicious figs. bursting with honey,
restorers of healthr There is drink
seller, bent under the weight of the odd
shaped jar slung over his shoulder, lump
of ice projecting from its mouth, conjuring
custom in a similar strain he struts UP
and down, making the air resound with the
rhythmical clap-clap of two brazen saucers
20 refreshment of the weary! o quencheI
of parched lips! o blessing of heaven"
Another street cry which may be heard
| in the main street of Abbasseh, suburb
| contains the following enticing announce
| ment: Tomorrow, o people, 1 am going
| to. kill camel. The doctor says it is young
and healthy. Oh, it's flesh will be tender
as the quail and juicy as lamb. It's price Is
but ~ piasters q cents) a pound. Do you
come early and be satisfied" Not the least
picturesque figures in the streets are the
| city police, in their neat white drill anG
red tarbouches in summer and blue serge
! in winter.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-12-27

deed, have an angelic plainness. Made OF
the sheerest India lawn, the short full
skirt, which drops from round. square Or
pointed yoke, may be only hemmed. The
yoke and cuffs Of the bishop sleeves are
entirely Of the needlework
For girls who cannot wear these pretty
wash things in winter, little wool frocks IN
white and brilliant tints are provided
though these require white wash camps to
be really elegant In the same way fashion.
fads make long stockings on small chill
dren seem out Of place in the house. White
or black socks have almost entirely super
seeded them for the smartest wear, though
long white stockings are also admissible
If the child is susceptible to cold these
should be of merino MARY DEAN.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-12-27

eiderdown flannel in solid colors and va
rious combinations. Cunningest OF all are
those in warm crimson, with pointed hoods
and belts, with really buttons and straps,
as the owner will describe them.
Care should be taken to select large gar
ments for such use, as they not only shrink
In washing. but are worn by children at a
time when freedom of action Is sacred
privilege For the nursery pillow fights and
other morning and evening frolics they are,
above all things, enticlng to childish eyes.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-12-27
Who Would Have Arms as
White9a as Milk
FOLLOW THESE DETAILS
SOFT AND SINUOUSCURvES MAY
BE CULTIVATED.
Sleeves That Reveal in Tantalizing
Fashion What They Profess
to Hide.

Written for The Evening Star by Katherine Norton
Will YOU have arms as white as milk and
smooth as satin?
Or will you cause your flmy Paris even
ing gown to blush for the contrast between
it's daintiness and their lack of beauty
Although beautiful arms are natures
gifts, they may also be cultivated Accord
ing to artists and sculptors perfect arms
are rarely given to women, but as we often
see those that appear very lovely, We may
conclude that inartistic lines may be con-
cealed by the drapery at the shoulder, and
that even if every curve does not conform
to beauty's law, at least arms may be made
of satin snloothness and of alabaster white
ness by careful attention to details.
Once in a while a student of arms will
come across beautiful pair that might be-
long to a Grecian statue. Every line is eX-
quisite in fineness, exactly modelled, and full
of expression, and the outer curve at the
shoulder has a virginia. daintiness and
poetical roundness. This is the classic arm.
The world will never know just how beau
tiful the arms of the Venus de Milo were.
Beautiful they must have been, but had
they dimples at the elbows; were they all
roundness and delicious curves?
Judging from famous statues, the arm
should have a round and flowing outline
with no sharpness at the elbows. 1t should
taper gently down to a small wrist
In one statue the proportions are as fol-
lows:
Inches
Length of arm from shoulder to
finger tips. Observation-Disclosures. % ITO
Length Of arm from elbow. ID 1-3
Length of arm from elbow to
finger tips. Observation-Disclosures. is IL
Around the upper arm............... 10 1-2
Around the elbow. IL IA
Around the forearm. Observation-Disclosures. 9 1915
Around the OBSERVATION-DISCLOSURES. IL
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-12-27
An Awakening.
e. Kiser in Chicago Record Herald.

He thought the fates had used him Ill,
And discomfort was In his heart;
While wealthy men grew richer still
He had no triumphs in the mart
He thought Of what the great possessed,
The uplendid things to him denied,
And envy nestled In his breast
And bitterness walked at his side.
A little face grew pale one day,
And in two eyes dullness crept;
He knelt down where his baby lay,
And trembling watched her while she slept,
And cried: "Oh, God, did not know
What riches Thou hadst given me
Till death came pointing down to show
How deep and broad my loss could be. -
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-12-27
While Waiting for Patients.

From PUCK.
Old Doctor-"Are you pursuing any spe-
cial line of study aside from your practice?"
Young Doctor-"Oh, yes! I am expert
menting to find how little food is necessary
to support human life"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-12-27

Bobbinet or brussels Is q machine-made
cotton or silk netting in which hexagonal
figure IL produced by twisting the thread.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-12-27
For Cold Mornings,

Among the very newest things for chill
dren are bed room accessories that reek of
comfort for cold mornings. The bath robes
are particularly enticing, being shown in
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-12-27
Useful Hints.

To prepare oatmeal bags to use in thu
bath water, make several little bags o
cheesecfoth and put in each about two ia
blespoonfuls of oatmeal. Throw one o
these bags into the wash basin, and whel
the water becomes milky by squeezing tn,
bag use, it for both face and hands. TIL,
same bag may be used three or four times
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-12-27

There is a dressmaking trick for round
ing out arms which Is worth considering.
Many women have the upper arm too short
In proportion to the forearm. Here comes
In the wise and clever modiste and cuts out
frock and borrows enough to make up the
deficiency from the shoulder. This borrow
The Union times. [volume] (Union, S.C.) 1894-1918, 1902-05-16
IN ow In Venice.

: II saw Venice once under unusual
circumstances" said q traveller "At
the time Of which I speak that sunny,
smiling land was wrapped In snow.
Our folks were bit surprised, but tho
natives were amazed. To the real We
netians snow is q thing they do not
know how to deal with. Many persons
remain all day in bed indulging in hot
drinks and pass their time in doing
nothing. The children, to their extreme
satisfaction. are not sent to school, as
the streets and squares are covered
with snow. Those courageous persons
who venture abroad only walk at the
slowest pace. To cross bridge is con-
sidered hazardous, If not foolhardy. st.
Marks square is entirely deserted.
Even the pigeons are invisible."%
The Union times. [volume] (Union, S.C.) 1894-1918, 1902-05-16
A True Poem.

How hard it is to tell what makes a
true poem, lasting poem! When one
asks himself what it is, how many
things arise, how hard to narrow the
list down to few things! Is it beau
ty? Then what is beauty? One meets
with beautiful poems every day that he
never thinks of or rccurs to again. 1t
is certain that without one thing there
Is no real poetry-genuine passion. The
fire came down out Of heaven and con-
sumed Elisha's offering because Elisha
was sincere. Plan and build your poem
never so deftly. mankind will not per-
mancntly care for it unless it has gen.
uine feeling. 1t must be impassioned.
John Burroughs in Century.
The Union times. [volume] (Union, S.C.) 1894-1918, 1902-05-16
Strong Even In Death.

A yew tree almost destitute of branch
es or bark grows abundantly in the
Caucasus to a height Of from fifty to
sixty feet and diameter Of little
over two feet. 1t grows slowly, but it's
timber Is almost indestructible except
by fire. 1t is considered superior in
durability, appearance and ,toughness
to mahogany, which 1t otherwise some.
what resembles. In some large forests
OF this tree 1T is very difficult to distin-
guish the live trees from the dead ones,
the latter being very numerous and
said to stand for 100 years after death
without exhibiting decay.
The Union times. [volume] (Union, S.C.) 1894-1918, 1902-05-16
Don'ts For Literary Beginners.

Do" roT beS1nneras
Don't tell the editor what your fam
lily or friends or literary acquaintances
say of your manuscript.
Don't urge the editor to buy your
manuscript because you need the mon
ey to help you in contributing to the
support Of your family or in making
your way through college.
Don't assume jaunty, sarcastic or
fnsistent tone with the editor. Don't
coyly ask him to permit this literary
dove to nest in your olive tree or else
return it to the ark at the above ad-
dress"
Don't try to temper the severity Of
his Judgment by sending him pressed
flowers with your manuscript or to
impress him with your literary power
and experience by telling him that you
"write on the spur Of the moment and
never correct"
Bear in mind, in short, that the best
way to submit manuscript is simply
to submit it and let it speak for ITSELF
Franklin B. Wiley in Ladies' Home
Journal. |
The Union times. [volume] (Union, S.C.) 1894-1918, 1902-05-16
Mizpnh.

How many people know that the
monument that Laban and Jacob set
up near the borders Of Canaan and
called "Afizpah," or lookout, was
erected in suspicion rather than love?
The literal meaning was this: "The
Lord watch between thee and me
when we are absent one from the 9TH
er, and see that you are not up to some
new trick as soon as my back is turn
ed"
SO when 1t Is inscribed in an engage
ments ring it might mean. "The Lord
watch and see that you do not firt
when we are absent one from the 9TH
er."
Those who use the text are some
times wiser than they know.
The Union times. [volume] (Union, S.C.) 1894-1918, 1902-05-16
MAN BEFORE BREAKFAST.
More Ill Naturcd Than Woman. Sny,
nm Observnnt Restaurateur.

More Ill NntUrcd Than Woman. Snys
nm Observnnt Restaurateur.
"Of course" said an avenue restau.
rant keeper, 81 think my business gives
me the best opportunities i'm the world
for judging human nature. My obser-
vatiOns have led me to the conclusion
That women, as nervous as they are
supposed to be, are more good natured
than men. The test for this trait comes
ut breakfast time. Now, I suppose
that my customers are about as checry
lot as frequent any restaurant in the
city. \ good many of them are news
paper men, who, as n usual thing. take
life as 1t comes without much COM
plaint. If you take them in the even
ing or late at night, you will find them
the most companionable lot ina ginable.
But let me tel you there is difference
In the morning.
CAS- friendly as am with most Of the
men who come in here, there is not
one whom l would care to provoke be-
fore he gets his breakfast. Most of the
kicks are made concerning the first
meal of the day. The waiter is too
slow; the steak is too rare; the steak is
too well done; the eggs are not fried
properly or are boiled too little or too
much. But by the time the average
man has had good meal and cup
OF hot coffee Richard is himself again
Now, with women it is different.
don't know whether it is because they
wake up less hungry than men or
whether an empty stomach affects their
nerves to less degree, but those who
get their breakfast here seldom annoy
us with complaints. ."-Washington Post