The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1902-02-02
LAST GREAT CHEF.
Paris Mourns the Death of It's Fa-
nous Joseph.

london Mail)
VI. Joseph Dugniol, the most re-
nowned of culinary artists and the
prince of major domos. Is dead, writes
our Paris correspondent
LOndoners viii remember him as the
maitre d'hotel of the Savoy restaurant
where he remained about two years
and made a mint Of money. One OF
/ the three great Josephs." he called him
/ self. 'PharaOh's Joseph. Joseph Cham
/ berlain and myself" At Paris he was
| the spoiled child Of epicures, and the
familiar friend OF crowned heads and
millionaires.
No one could beat him at compiling
attractive menus. and his particular
! delicacies Will live in the recollection
/ Of all who were rich enough to pay tor
| them.
| One of his masterpieces was Canard
/ a Ia Presse, or a Ia Rouennaise, which
/ was made peculiarly appetiZing y.
| pressing the blood out of a carcass o.
1 a duck, when the meat had been carved
| of. The bird was only half cooked IN
/ the kitchen and il was over spirit
/ lamp on the table that NJ. Joseph
! completed the operation and made the
piquaint sauce which rendered him IA
nous.
He was a magnificent carver. ana
| when he manipulated a fowl before
| royalty-Queen Alexandra, when Prin-
| cess of Wales, more than once admired
his skill-M. Joseph held the bird on
| the end of a fork without once rest
ing it on the end of the table, dextrous-
his interest in the restaurant Marivaux
| We're all that remained.
| He had several special methods OF
/ ar-fy, oF khinpr n
serve them with the white wine in
| which they had been cooked, to which,
/ while the guests admired him giving
| the finishing touches over a spirit lamp,
| he, added several oysters and some
| chopped parsley. This dish he called
SOles a Ia ReichembeTg, after Nine
! Reichemberg OF the Coincide Fran
! caise.
At pancakes NJ. Joseph was unrlv-
| aled. and one who knew him said that
/ to see him make them was only less
| enjoyable than to eat them.
To his skill as maitre d'hotel n. Jo-
seph added a keen business instinct
and when he went to the Savoy hotel
in London he is said to have made IL
a condition that he should receive for
his interest in the restaurant MariVauX
| a sum Of G18,0G0. This restaurant he
returned to. after he left the Savoy
restaurant, and il was closed only a
| few weeks ago.
| One of the most lucrative appoint
! ments M. Joseph ever held was that
offered him by Mr.. Vanderbilt. who
| was so struck by his skill al PaillaTd's
| that he engaged him TO take chargF'
of his kitchen in New York at a salary
of $4,000 for three years At the end
of a year and a half, however, Mr..
Vanderbilt sent for the famous chef
and told him that while he greatly ad-
mired his brilliant achievements In cul-
mary science. he had grown tired OF
French cooking and would feel CRATE
ful if he would prepare him a nice
piece of boiled beef and cabbage. The
humiliating request almost broke N.
Joseph's heart. but swallowing his
| mOFtifica ton, he replied haughtily: 7
| am afraid, monsieur that you have
made mistake; l shall ring for the
gardener"
He was a real enthusiast in his call
ing, and had the artistic temperament
strongly developed. Nothing annoyed
| him so much as to be called a cook.
! II is even said of him that he never
| went to the theatre because he met
| SO many of his customers there, and
they would insist upon talking shop.
| Away from his beloved Restaurant
| Marivaux in Paris he was never qui9e
| happy, and when this was closed a
month ago he seemed to feel that some
thing had gone out of his life, although
he had retired from its mana cement IN
| May last When with Mr. Vanderbilt in
New York and at the Savoy in London
he was not at his ease. He was, more
/ over, a poor administrator.
At the MarivauX, where. at the
most, forty people could dine, he was
| at his best. since there he could give
his individual attention to every guest.
And such guests Dukes and million
| aires were his principal customers. To
each one Joseph. who prided himself
on his wit, would fire off his bonmot
| and retire, beHming with happiness.
Always he would rather make his
l pretty speech than receive a handsome
| hOneraFium.
Once when. with wonderful skill, ;le
| had carved up an orange into a basket
| of flowers for q lady, her host wished
! to present him with a bank note. Per
NIT me to refuse. my lord" he said,
Ito take it would destroy all the pleas
ure it has given me to please miladi."
He it was who invented the custom
of drinking fine cognac out of large
glasses. 1t hurt him to the quick TO
see people drinking his oldest fine
champagne" the exquisite aroma of
which he himself appreciated so well.
out of small liqueur glasses. So he had
il served in large gOblets, exclaiming:
| There! You shall smell my cognac.
The superiority of short dinners was
his prime article of faith. ITO CONF
pose a long dinner" he used TO say,
lis like shooting with shotgun. 1t is
easy to hit with one shot out of May.
But to achieve a triumph with din
ner of two or three dishes is like shoot
ing with a rife. You must hit the
mark every time"
In his leisure hours Joseph, Who was
! born at Birmingham. was a great pig
con fancier. and quite recently he took
the second, third and fourth prizes in
a long-distance trial against some
thousand competitors.
With his death and the closing Of the
Marivaux. Paris is left with no great
restaurant for the gourmet
a