The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-08-31

ing the sleeve fit very tightly at the top
and spread out very full from elbow 10
wrist.
Coat sleeves ere of many varieties. Even
on plain jackets an odd cuff will give char
acter TO an otherwise undistinguished
sleeve. Sleeves Of two materials are not
Sometimes the toy part is of
cloth trimmed with braid or passementerie,
the lower part heavy lace or embroidery.
Others are of velvet at the top and of silk
or satin below. Elbow sleeves are TO be
worn all winter for evening. They are
very elaborate, some designs being made TO
bear no end of trimming and applique work.
Lace, passementerie, embroidery and braid
ing enter largely into their makeup. Ruff
fes, tucks, pleats and gathers galore are
used on all sorts of sleeves and for all Oc-
casiOns. The diversity TO rule is made clear
by the accompanying sketches. In the
initial picture were capped bishop sleeves
finished like the rest of the gown, with
Narrow Persian passementerie and fine
black silk braid. In the next picture were,
first. pulled sleeves of white crepe de chine
the dress goOds-banded with green vel
vet: next. gathered sleeves Of white silk
nuns yelling on a gown OF that material
trimmed with chiffon roses and leaves: and
last, puffs Of white silk banded with black
braid and tops OF dove gray canvas cloth.
The stylish bishop sleeve with cuff appears
in the next picture. and beside IL are sleeves
composed Of double rufies OF lace. So long
as the extreme Of fullness is kept at or
below the elbow and all above is light or
reasonably small, the styles are met. This
gives the ingenious dressmaker full play
and guarantees such variety and beauty
IN sleeves as will make them a very impor-
tant portion of fan and winter dresses.
on street gowns there is TO be a deal of
line braiding. but il will be done in cord and
be so interviewer with embroidery as TO
break its severity. An Illustration was a
handsome green gown braided with fine
black and silver cord. but running through
the braidings were tiny embroidered for
get-me-nots, their leaves of a shade lighter
than the gown. Another example was
brown cloth with a black cord braiding
passing through long eyelet holes embroid-
cred in orange. Eyelet holes are much in
favor and on many a winter gown viii
amount 10 a very tedious job. Cloth cut al
over IN eyeleJ holes. the edges embroidered
I'm contrasting color and made over another
! color. is q stylish trimming. Orange is seen
IN many eyelet cloths ard is coming into IA
Nor elsewhere. 1t looks especially we'll OF
browns and dark blues. Embroidered cir
cies or dots on plain cloth are seen on many
rev gowns in rough or figured material,
and Chinese. Russian. Turkish and Egypt
Ian cmbroideries are IN demand for this
purpose. Chinese and japanese designs are
Tor all the seasons colorings. The blue and
green combinations OF Oriental embroidery
are especially well adapted 70 the dark
shades 10 be worn.
Camels-hair materials are the best liked
OF all new fan fabrics, and the especial IA.
vorite Of these is the sort dotted in self
color. the dots showing a sfken finish
Zbelines are finer and silkier than they
were last season. They are also lighter In
weight. The cape and cape collar are try
ing the taiIor's patience. They are very
hard 10 1T. especially when extended faI
down over the arms Capes are single
double or triple and reach we'll below the ell
bow. even I'm little capes and collars thai
accompany suits. Long capes 10 be worr
as cloaks are legion. The combination OF
cape Ind boIero Il effected. and many time:
cape and coat are combined. An example
q this last Ii sketchsd here. In bright re-