The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-09-20
AS TO COATS and WRAPS
ENDLESS VARIETY OF CLOTHS AND
sTYLEs OPEN FOR INSPECTION.
Garments for Dress Occasions, Street
and Carriage Uses and General
Utility i'm Many Patterns.

NEW YORK, Sept. 1s.-Coats and wraps
show almost endless variety and offer a
range of choice scarcely to be equaled even
by the gowns themselves, yet while this
fact is absolutely true and one is instantly
struck with the opportunity afforded to suit
each and every style certain tendencies are
apparent in all, certain features mark the
season for it's own. IL you have any fam
lily portraits or daguerreotypes that date
back to 'befo' de wah,'' you will find
something closely resembling the long,
loose wraps that it is claimed will be es-
s~entially smart. Many and many a time
have we all looked at them and laughed,
many a time have we felt a sort of pity for
our grandmothers and our mothers that
their wraps were not more shapely, their
coats more trim, but, in spite of that
truth they have returned and the latest
models for driving, for evening wear and
the like recall those same dear pictures
and inevitably suggest them to the mind.
AS a matter of course there are changes.
Who ever knew a revival that did not mean
variation? But essentially the characters
tics are the same. There are the same
dropping shoulders, the same voluminous
sleeves, the same sacque-like shape or lack
of shape. The only improvements we can
fairly be said to have made are to be found
in the lines, which certainly are improved.
in the general finish and in the far more
varied and beautiful materials. The cloaks
of the earlier time lacked the variety Of col
or, of texture, of fabric offered us to-day.
They were without the saving grace Of
cloth as supple as the softest silk. OF silks
at once ~lustrous and pliable. of lovely long
hairad offaotc fhaf Ipouvp oS o;oari-o= go
in themselves a revelation of beauty. On
the other hand it seems to me we have
refrigerated a bit In seeking their designs
and general shape and, personally, / fancy
We shall see other and more shapeiy ones
before the season has well set in. 1t has
been well and wisely said that the Ameri-
can woman will not accept an ugly thing,
that she will not wear garments which
mar the perfect lines of the figure. let the
models put forth by the designers be as
alluring as they may. These loose coats
are admirable for carriage wear, all that
could be asked for evening wraps, but worn
and, being that, / question their ultimate
smartness, although 1t is always possible
/ may be in error and misjudge their effect.
COATS, JACKETS AND CLOAKS.
Be all that is it may. however. the present
display includes loose coats of every length
and of every sort. Jackets to the waist
only, half lengths, three-quarter and full
length in all possible material and with
collars of every possible sort. Tho box
models predominant, but there are many
that fall in folds at the backs or are so
cut as to form half defined plaits below the
shoulders. With them collars take many
forms. The shawl model is conspicuous. the
strap collar, familiar on the Monte Carlo
coats is seen, the storm collar is found
and the turnover collar also is here. Cloths
Of the softes6 finish are favorite materials
for the lighter colors, but zibeline, velvet
and silk seem to be preferred for black and
the darker tones that still are designed for
occasions of formal dress. Tan, covert, OK
ford, fer de forge and other dark grays with
brown and black are shown in the coats
designed for travelling and utility wear.
Sleeves are large and either fall in wide
dropping puffs at the wrists or are in bell
shape, but the model of the season is a full
sleeve, on the bishop order, that fits
smoothly at the shoulders, but widens be-
low the elbows until it is plated into roll
over cuffs at the wrists. Trimmings are
many things. braid. passementerie. lace.
The long cloaks for elderly women are
charming. Fol the most part they are
black and either of satin-faced cloth, silk,
preferably peau de sole, or velvet. While
some are In full length, the greater num-
Der extend half or t~hree-quarters the
length of the skirt The prevailing model
is loose, in sacque style with the sleeves
just described or those in bell shape. Ex-
ceedingly elegant velvet cloaks are fin
ished with storm collars and are edged
with black feathers or with Persian lamb.
Others again have entire collars of fur.
All the materials are deliberately trimmed
with applications, either OF heavy lace, of
silk trimmings or OF fancy silk braids. AS
a whole they are elegant and becoming,
In addition TO providing ample warmth
while they can be slipped on and of with
ease. Some few shawl collars are seen,
and others again OF the wide turnover sort,
but the storm model Is a favorite and a
deserving one
Cloth coats designed for the younger
contingent OF matrons take forms. An
exceedingly serviceable model is full length,
loose and with bell sleeves In the case of
the particular one / have In mind the ma
terial is long-haired zibeline In a dull
a cape collar Of velvet supplemented by
a standing one and long stole ends of
squirrel fur. Stoles, by the way, are seen
upon everything and squirrel Is TO ave
such a season as II has not known for
years. A most tempting midwfnte coat
u ct black velvet lined through with the