The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-11-08
NEWEST EVENING GOWNS.
MORE ELABORATE THAN EVER,
SINCE FORMALITY Is INCREASING.
Low-Cut Gowns Becoming Very Com
mon, and English Rules for Dress
Generally Adopted.

copied rule. Year by year, season by sea-
son, formality in dress is on the increase,
and, where not so long ago the low bodice
was reserved for formal functions, II now
is seen at simple dinners as well as at
those of greater length. To be sure the
dancing gown still remains thing apart
and the opera will see decollete bodices that
are quite different from those worn for
the little dinner, but the fact remains
that We approach nearer and nearer to the
English rule with each opening season. As
yet our gowns for the simple occasions are
less low and show more sleeves than do
those designed for state occasions, but the
tendency is apparent and is on the increase.
Unlined Jokes of lace and OF chiffon still
are seen and are charming, besides which
they are preferred by many women of
fashion, but, in spite of all these qualify
ing truths, no observant person can fail
to note the increased number of low bodices
worn upon all occasions after 6 o'clock.
Even the theater shows the trend of fash
ion in this direction, and, while as yet we
do not see actual full dress as at the Lon
don playhouses. gowns grow more and
more elaborate, tend more and more toward
that model. Light colors, delicate fabrics,
the unlined yokes to which have just re-
fact-and very brilliant is the result. The
season just opening bids fair to make its
own record and to show much that is
charming, much that is graceful, much
that goes to make up fascinating picture
of life.
AS in the gowns and costumes of other
uses so with those of evening and dinner
wear the widest possible range of choice is
allowed. Rich silks, handsome velvets are
seen on the one hand, filmy nets, delicate
laces on the other, with every possible in
termediate weight and sort. Much white
much black, much gray is worn, but no
sooner does one note that fact than lovely
creations in pink. in blue, in lavender, In
yellow, recall themselves to the mind. So
long as the material and the color are
suited TO the wearer, so long as certain gen.
eral tendencies are borne in mind, ii would
seem impossible to go astray. Snug fitting
about the hips and much f1aring about the
feet skirts must be, but how that effect
shall be obtained is left to individual taste.
Soft, dropping, mass, of folds or tucks
almost all bodices are, but arranged in an
infinite number of ways One great dress
maker sends out shirred skirts, another
uses hounces, a third declares for plaits.
All are correct and each one has his own
following. Richness, supmptuous splendor,
extravaganza mark the season for their
own, but are made apparent in a multitude
of ways.
GOWNS FOR YOUNG GIRLS.
By far the most charming dinner gowns
for young girls and young matrons are of
the thin f1lmy chiffons, nets and the like.
AS lovely a creation as any Paris has sent
us is of white chiffon combined with French
crochet lace. The lace is somewhat like
the Irish, but more open between the fig
ures, which are heavier. The skirt Is made
with hip yoke of lace. below which it is
shirred at intervals to the knees. or to
| fOunce depth, where ii falls in full soft
folds. The lower edge is hemmed and en-
riched by appliques of the lace. which are
never allowed to appear to overweight the
chiffon. The bodice is low and round at
ished with a fall of lace, above which is a
drapery of the chiffon against the neck.
The chiffon is shirred at the neck and falls
in full soft folds below. At the waist is a
bodice-like belt of lace that so unites with
| the skirt yoke as to give a princess eff
| feet. The sleeves fall to the elbows. but
| the shoulders. falling into the fullest and
| softest puffs below. The foundation is
white taffeta mousseline yelled with nous
| seine. An almost equally lovely gown is
| of pale blue net showing raised dots, made
up with cream Venetian lace. The skirt is
similarly shirred, but shows no yoke, and
the bodice is round with bertha Of the
lace. Lace makes the undersleeves in elbow
| length, over which those of full net fall
| More elaborate gowns, those designed fol-
wearers of more mature years, show ap-
| plique of velvet roses on chiffon and trim
| ming of point applique, enriched by silver
threads and tiny sequins. A most gorgeous
| gown, to be worn by young matron, is
| still of chiffon and still white, but shows
| appliques of white velvet roses and a nove
| trimming of this superb lace. The skirt
| is finished with a group of fine tucks al
| the lower edge and is arranged in three
groups of shirring that give the effect of a
| deep founce with three wide puffs above
| Above the tucks are applied the lovely
roses that give garland effect The low
bodice is shirred at the neck and agair
| midway between the neck and the belt The
| sleeves are soft, fun and transparent. mere
| ly of the unlined chiffon shirred very "a,
| at the shoulders, and allowed to fall to Q
| point slightly below the elbows. They are
| without seams and are graduated in
/ length, so giving an angel effect that i:
most charming; At the front of the gown
| waist Is a garniture of the lace, the pat
tern outlined with threads of silver, while
epaulet-like pieces of the same are ar
ranged over the shoulders. The shirreC
skirt Is novelty and one that seems likely
to gain extended favor. 1t allows of the
soft full folds, SO essential to success where
| chiffon and similar fabrics are used, ye
| preserves the snug fit about the hips with
| the flare below the knees demanded b,
fashion. This particular gown is dainty
| and exquisite in the extreme and show.
chiffon to rare advantage. The full shirrinf
means softness and beauty, and the under
/ drapery of mousseline gives just the fimy
effect that is so much to be desired. Chiffon
| appears to be craze. Not alone is ii freel,
| used, its name is given to all sorts of soft
| and pliable materials made of wool anC
| silk The latest of all is chiffon velvet
but we have had chiffon yelling and woo
| chiffon for some time. The velvet is, how
ever, unquestionably lovely, whatever il.
name or however it may have been de
| rived. most superb dinner gown seer
| within the week, is made of the materia
| in cream white and is shirred much afteI
| the manner just described. Being absolute
ly soft, it allows of the treatment withou
ugly bulk, and the lines and folds which 1
takes are beautiful can be- The gowr
referred to is made with elbow sleeves ant
| a moderately low neck, and is trimme,
with real French crochet lace.
AN EFFECTIVE GOWN.
Bodices cut round at the front and v
shaped at the back also are new and ar
singularly effective. A most desirable gov,
of fine black net, spangled with silve
sequins, is so made and is singularly sue
cesful. The bodice, simple blouse, |
trimmed with black chantilly so applied a
to give vest effect and is made witt
elbow sleeves that terminate I'm full grad
uated frills of net. edged with black velve
ribbon, over white chiffon. edged witt
ruches. The skirt is plain as to cut bu
Is banded with graduated widths of velve
ribbon to give a fiounce effect, and i
trimmed with chantilly arranged to form
| a panel front and to meet that on tn
bodice in princess style. The entire cow
is mounted over white silk, yelled witt
white chiffon.
White chiffon over color and lace owe
pale-tinted chiffon both are much worn
! most effective dancing gown is of Lierr
lace over pale yellow, and one sees blacl
| lace over white, white chiffon over blue
pink green and lavender. most charm
ing dinner costume for a debutante is o
are precisely alike and sewed together. the
| mounted over white silk The skirt 4