davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Savannah morning news., 1902-08-24

vent of knee breeches-that is, breech-
es that extended from the waist to
the knees and were secured there by
buttons, buckles, or ribbens-a very
snort garment, slashed and puffad.
was worn by royalty the aristocracy,
the rich, the MOBILITY and patricians,
that merely covered the lower part of
the trunk, leaving the whole thigh to
be covered with very long stockings"
Although the "pantaloon" is older
than the present trousers" yet the
word trousers" was used for all sorts
OF leg-coverings centuries ago. The
name appeals in wardrobe accounts of
the reign of King Henry VII, making
that monarch noteworthy for one 9TH
er matter besides a taste for collecting
wives.
In Elizabeths time the word
"breeches" became common. The name
came from the word "Braccae" which
was used to describe long, full bags
gathered at the ankles In the Museum
of the Royal Irish Academy in Dublin
there is a pair of trousers of great
antiquity These trousers are grandly
checkered, showing that the favorite
English fashion is hallowed by age.
In 1892 the trousers or knee breeches
were stuffed and wadded, ('bom-
basted") like beer barrels. 1t is re-
corded in the reign of Elizabeth that a
gallery or scaffold had to be erected in
London to the wide trousers OF the
aldermen.
The Savannah morning news., 1902-08-24

looms were depicted as unaesthetic.
vulgar, and uncomfortable. Artists
refused to paint their patrons in them.
Women ridiculed the wearers of them.
Yet the net result of all the warfare
was that by 1920 pantaloons were worn
by almost everybody, except the de-
lightful old fashioned persons who
stalk SO pleasantly through the pages
of Dickens and Thackeray in their
knee breeches and bag wigs.
PantaIoons in America.
In 1927 pantaloons were so generally
worn in the United States that a
scientific method of draughting pat
terms for them was introduced. It
was originated and printed by Otis
Madison and second edition was pub
lished In 1929. Its title was "a New
System of Delineating, Founded on
True Principles and Containing Litho-
graphic Charts of all Different Gar
ments."
The patterns for the pantaloons in
this work look most utterly unlike
anything that possibly could be worn
by any creature in the shape of man.
j. o. Madison, son of Otis Madison.
says that the American tailors of that
time were not merely mechanics, but
had an acute sense of art. Their
leading principle as expressed in the
book was that to be fashionable a
garment must be so made that 1t can
not be excelled for neatness of style,
beauty, or workmanship in any part
of the world.
Trousers and pantaloons," said Mr..
Madison, in the American Tailor and
Cutter some time ago, ARE COMPARE
lively modern garments as are knee
breeches, though they preceded the
former many years. Before the adj
The Savannah morning news., 1902-08-24
a REMARKABLE CASE.

airy insanity, which takes away the
criminal character of the act.
In this country attempts to commit
suicide are punishable. There is an
argument, however, that meicide is
necessarily a symptom of insanity, as
being contrary to the first and univer-
sal human instinct of self-preserva-
ton. Actually, however, some sui
cides, at least, are manifestly in pos
session of their nomal faculties. I'm
questionably the frequent suicides of
men in antiquity distinguished for
their mental equilibrium, and among
contemporary Cinnamon, cannot be at
tributed to insanity. Statistics are
published to show that there has been
a slight increase In suicide in Chris
tendon during the present generation,
but self-destruction as cause of
death still remains one of the least ac-
tive throughout civilization.
AS Christian of the old faith our
very serious correspondent believes
that a suicide cannot enter heaven
and is doomed to eternal punishment"
But does that belief impose on him
the obligation he has assumed of sup
porting friend because of a threat to
kill himself If the aid is not provid-
ed?
IL AOAAbhO PCOplC BcnEIdliy pro-
ceeded on that principle, threats of sui
eide as means of extorting money
would become fashionable. In saying
this we do not mean to infer that the
friend for whom our correspondent, has
sacrificed so much as q duty of piety
and fidelity belongs to a crowd capable
of such a threat merely for a mercen-
airy purpose. But ii this man Is will
Ing to accept pay not to kill himself,
there is something all wrong with him
either morally or mentally. His true
place Is in confinement either In a
criminal or charitable institution or in
an inseAe asylum. He is not a man
to be allowed to go abroad Society
and not our correspondent ought to
take care of such man; and in hand
ing him over to the keeping of the
public authorities our friend would be
discharging his full Christian duty.
Charity extorted by a threat OF sui
eide is not virtue, unless, perhaps,
1t be extended temporarily. Our friend
has duties to his family and to So
ciety which he cannot set aside by
permanently supporting a man who
threatens otherwise to put an end to
himself. 1t may seem cruel to say IL,
but 1t is true that nobody capable Of
making such a threat as a means OF
obtaining bread and butter win be
missed from the earth, even IL he
should carry his threat into execution.
But he will not do 1t. People who
talk 50 freely about committing sui
eide are not likely to proceed to The
extreme, unless In a few cases where
they are actually mad, when. obvious
ly they ought TO be turned over for
examination by an alienist. Our ad-
vice 10 our friend is then, finally. TO
consult about the matter a physician
experienced IN insanity.
The Savannah morning news., 1902-08-24

wives, and their dogs, and their legs
according to their political and re-
ligious beliefs.
religious beliefs.
The young, long haired democrats of
France were about as unlovely objects
as one might imagine. Their panta-
looms were ignoble bags, shaped in the
unimaginative form of sausage castings,
hanging on the limbs like signals of
distress and Tapping dolefully as the
wearer walked. They were high wa
ters," ending well above the ankle and
showing waste of stocking-clad an
kle
Sympathy with the aims of democ-
racy induced many young persons of
ideals to garb themselves thus afro
ciously. But the cruel deeds of the
Revolution had aroused such general
horror that even if the fashion had
been beautiful it probably would have
met with enmity as being a symbol
of the Red Terror. Being strikingly,
completely and hopelessly ugly, it did
not make any way at all outside of
France worth mentioning. Jefferson
brought the pantaloons back from
France after his terms as minister
there and wore them as being in strict
keeping with his notions of democratic
simplicity. Naturally they had some
VS. NC AZ tAC ChAbCQ ObdlSo dIbCL. bAdl'
But the majority of those who wore
them. in both America and England
wore them not as articles of fashion,
but rather as protests against the
arbitraments of fashion.
The noble George changed all that
His beaus helped him loyalty. Before
George had been on the throne long,
a duke, in ordering a pair of the gar
ments, told his tailor: IF I can get into
'em, 1 won't have EN-" Probably he
did not intent to be taken too literally
But certainly the pantaloons had grown
to be an object of solicitude in the
Kingdom, and bucks Wed with each
other to see who could wear the most
beautifully moulded ones
The Savannah morning news., 1902-08-24
INSURING ]. p. MORGAN.
The Only Person Aside from a Crowned Head
Upon Whose Life Public Policies Have
Been Issued.
Been Issued.

United States. Heretofore no
one mans life has seemed to be
important enough to insure except in
favor of his immediate relatives.
"You will remember when President
Mckinley died it really made but lit
tie difference to the financial well-be-
ing of the country. There was slight
fall in prices, but the rally was inn
mediate Besides we do not believe
lieve it would be hard to introduce
it over here. They do it in England,
but only as the outgrowth of an old
custom.
Dating from feudal times leases TO
property were often made for the life
time of the lessor or of the lessee or
for as long as certain general condi-
tons prevailed. Sometimes the name
of an outsider would be put in the
lease, merely to conform to the old
custom of naming somebody.
when insurance came in the lease
holder sought to protect himself by
having the person mentioned in the
lease insured, and the names of nota-
BILE persons were selected merely be-
cause the notableS were more easily
traced. Tom, Dick or Harry might en-
igrate or become lost sight of in other
ways, and his death might thus be-
come matter for dispute. But every
body in the realm would be sure to
know when the King or Queen died,
and there could be no dispute.
80 the reigning sovereign became
a favorite name for lease usage, and
Queen Victoria was a much-insured
person. When she died policies were
issued on the life of King Edward.
But 1t became common to issue poll
cies on the Kings life for other causes
than leases. Linen diapers, for in
stance, insured the Kings life be-
cause having a stock of, say, white
goods, on hand, his death would make
mourning the only possible apparel,
and the white goods would become
loss.
TT is only where a mans death
could involve widespread financial loss
that a public policy would be issued
on his life, even in England, and II
British companies have accepted, risks
on Mr.. Morgan's life IL is hattering
estimate of the high and important
place he has achieved in the world OF
finance"
The Savannah morning news., 1902-08-24
From the New York sun.

From the New York Sun.
If this very remarkable letter did
not come to us from a source whose
good faith is beyond question we
should set 1t down as an attempt to
reduce to ridicule the subject of which
1t treats. It's writer Is a man of good
standing in New York and we'll known
and esteemed in the sphere of business
in which he is engaged:
ITO the Editor of the Sun-Sir Hav-
ing read the Sun the last ffy years
and being often instructed by the
handling of different difficult prob
lens by it and it's volunteer contribu-
tors, ask your advice on a matter
that is giving me very serious thought.
which I cannot solve.
"The Christian influences under
which 1 was raised have inculcated In
me the feeling that suicide cannot
enter heaven and is doomed to eternal
punishment.
"An old friend of lifelong standing,
who has always lived an honest, up
right life, is destitute through vicissi-
tudes of fortune and so tired of life
that he impaired to me that being
decrepit and destitute he intended COM
mitting suicide.
Shocked at the information, / OBJ
ligated myself to provide for him until
something might develop that would
help him. find my financial resources
will not allow my supporting him fur
Their without my being seriously en-
barrassed. What shall / do? ] may
injure myself trying to care for him,
and the thought that If / withdraw
my support and his suicidal act will
eternally deprive him of the joys of
heaven, which / might by possibly
sacrificing myself prevent, has placed
me in a very unenviable frame Of
mind. Can you advise me what should
I do? Christian.
New York, Aug. IA"
First, let US give commentator to
this man because of the spirit of hui
manity in him and his fidelity to
friendship and to religious conviction.
He Is a good man.
When Christianity came in, suicide,
which in paganism had been regarded
as permissible and under many cir
cumstances as laudable, was made
capital sin because Of its violent re-
slstance to the will of God. In the
Catholic Church 1t became a mortal
sin, a crime for which in the nature
OF things there could be no penance.
Christian burial was denied to the
suicide by the church and his soul
was deprived of the benefit of pray
ers for the dead. BY the ancient rule
In England a suicide was condemned
to "ignominious burial on the high
way with a stake driven through the
body" but in the reign OF George Nv.
this was relaxed 20 as 10 require sim
ply that the suicide should be buried
within tWenty-fOur hours after the
COroneFs inquest. and between the
hours Of and - az night. Practical
". however. IN these days the c0rO-
Der's jury IL likely 70 bring Ia, on
slight evidence. verdict Of tsmpor-
The Savannah morning news., 1902-08-24

Bombasting lasted till the time OF
Charles /. He and his courtiers in
PRODUCED loose breeches, falling to the
knee, where they were ornamented
mot ted with lace and ribbons.
Charles II introduced short wasted
doublets and petticoat breeches, which
had lining protruding from the knee,
were tied with ribbons above the knee
and ornamented with ribbons above to
the pockets, with more ribbons around
the waistband and with the shirt
hanging out.
This fashion went out before the end
OF the reign and with William III tight
knee breeches with tight stockings
were brought in. First the stockings
were drawn nearly to the middle of the
thing, but afterward the breeches were
| buttoned at the knee and ornamented
with buckles.
1t is remarkable fact that although
France has controlled the fashions for
women of the civilized world for many
hundreds of years, male fashions al
most always have emanated from
England, or, at least, male styles did
not become really fashionable until
they had been accepted In England.
Thus, although the French costumes
under Louis XVI were probably the
most beautiful of modern times,yet the
French beaus all went to London even
then for their coats. No coat was con-
sidered worth wearing unless 1t was
London made.
The Savannah morning news., 1902-08-24

Still the beaus did not conquer easily
or soon. The Duke of Wellington, who,
in his dual capacity of beau and lover
of royalty, had become one of the first
of the pantaloon wearers, was turned
away from Almack's as late as 1914
because he insisted on appearing in
pantaloons.
Another time the Lady Patronesses
of the Assemblies at Almack's were
much exercised. They had planned an
elaborate reception and ball, and were
determined that it should not be des-
ecrated by the presence of bucks in
pantaloons. Yet they knew full well
that the Duke of Wellington would in
sist on wearing the beloved garments.
They could not dare offend him. for
although Wellington had not then be-
come the object of popular worship
that he was later after defeating Ma
poleon at Waterloo, yet he was the
hero of Seringapatam, and of the Pen
insula and mighty leader of fashion
to boot.
So the Lady Patronesses were in
despair; they could not and would not
yield on the subject of pantaloons, yet
they could not afford to risk offending
the Duke. In this juncture. bright
wit suggested that the invitation con-
tain the following clause:
Gentlemen are expected to wear
small clothes and silk stockings, but
any gentleman who is conscious that
his figure is not adapted to that Co.'S
tune may wear pantaloons.'
With the exception of wellington
and two other daring beaus, all the
gentlemen who attended the reception
wore small Clothes.
Gilray and other cartoonists of the
period made savage fun of the new
mode. They showed beaus with inor-
dinately long and thin legs and beaus
with inordinately short and fat
legs. They depicted men with limbs
like trees and with limbs like compass
dividers. In every aspect the panta-
The Savannah morning news., 1902-08-24
FEATHERS AS AIR ENGINES.
Secret of the PrOblem of Flight
Partly Solved BY Patient OBJ
server In Colorado.
From Chambers Journal.

occEet Oh INC EEoDlem OF FnKht
Partly Solved BY Patient OBJ
server In Colorado.
From Chambers Journal.
What is the motive power of a quies-
cent bird that moves 1t through air re-
sistance and keeps its heavy body from
falling? We are absolutely baffied
when confronted with the problem of
q soaring bird.
1t does not move it's wings when It
has once got well started; it's moving
parts seem to be Of use merely to get
1t off some unknown dead centre; it
has infinite capacity for taking advan-
tage of balance; and all this Is done
while violating every known mechani-
cal law, holding up heavy body In
the air, and overcoming strong atmos-
pherfc resistance at a. rapid rate with
out discoyerable expenditure of energy.
Yet weight is absolutely necessary
for flight, and the relative area of wing
expanse diminishes as the weight of
the bird increases. For example a
gnat, which possesses a very light,
fairy-like body, has about eleven
times the wing area Of a swallow in
proportion to the weight of each.
/ have been trying to discover the
CAaSb SltuCLuTe Oh u DlTQ surfaces
which enables 1t to get the soaring
force from the air pressure under its
wings for the past fifteen years. The
task seemed hopeless until accident
settled the case. / had located in the
foot hills of the Flat Top Mountains
of Colorado, in the dry adr of that re-
gion, to prosecute my task where the
yellow tailed hawks that were admir-
able soaring birds were abundant
A precipitous cliff 1000 feet high was
near, from which / fioated all sorts of
surfaces, and year after year the quest
went on. A furious forest fire had fill
ed the air with smoke and ashes, and
the odor of burning wood was in evil
dence for months.
/ had killed a large hawk, and was
examining its feathers when a stain
was detected on the sides of the quill,
between the spicules, that was not be-
fore seen. A small magnifier gave 1t
The Savannah morning news., 1902-08-24

folks. Some of your family, Tommy
asks der bloke at der counter, wut took
de notice. An I says, Sure, Mike, for
Tige wuZ de only family / ever had.
Mebbe eff / had had a mother or ia
Their, like other folks, wouldn't a
cared so much about Tige, but he wuz
de only one dat ever loved me.
Say, dat time I gut hurried by de
car an dey took me to der horrpital,
mebbe dere warnt Tige lickin' me foot
whut wuZ mashed, an whinin' like
twas him! Drive der mutt away says
a man. An / says, Not on yer life, yer
don't, an I took him in my arms. De
sawbones whut comes in de ambulance,
he wuZ young felly, an ] liked de
looks of his eye, an l says, Mister. yer
won't let 'em hurt Tige, will yer?' An
he says, Mo- 'Corse Tige couldn't go
in de horspital, but he never left de
gate night or day, an when l come
out he wuz waitin' fer me, and wese
both so glad we strapped wild ev'y
boy and dog on de way.
Say, dorgs, dey's better frens dan
folks, amt it? Sometimes, when dere
amt no murders, nor lection, and no.
body don't want no poipers, an yer
cold, an tired, an wet, an where you
goin to find some grub is a corker,
den yer meets yer friend an he makes
a bluff bout not havin any dough an
tells yer We ought to keep yer weather
eye out for a rainy day, an jest rubs
de misery in tell yer dead sore; but
yer dog, he amt got no better serse den
to be sorry fer yer cause yer down on
yer luck, an to love yer jes de same.
Me and Tige, we wuz side partners.
Wese been cold and hungry an tired
an wet many time, but he amt never
went back on me, or throwed IL up to
me he would have done better by goin'
wild somebody else. OATS de reason
put in de poipers about his bein' dead,
an 1 took him out to de country an
buried him.
How did he die? Why, dere wuz
car comm an l didn't see it, an Tige
run right out in front of it an grab
bed me by de britches, an see 1t jest
in time to get out of de way, but Tige,
he got ketched under de wheels, an
when / got him out he was dead
Nav, I didn't tell any of de kids
about me burrin' Tige, cause dey
would string me, an l would have to
break dere faces, an dere aint no scrap
lef' in me sence Tige died. Jest went
out into de country by myself, an dug
a hole, an put Tige in 1t. I didn't have
no coffin, but I wrapped him up in my
best handkerchief, an when l come
home it seemed to me dat dere wuzn't
anything left but lonesomeness in all
de world.
Say, seems like I ought to write
something on board an put over de
grave, oughn't L?
Write" I said softly. Greater love
hath no man than this, that he will
give his life for his friend"
The Savannah morning news., 1902-08-24

The Westminster Gazette announces
that London spectators in American
railroads have grown nervous of late,
and in many instances have protected
their financial holdings by insuring the
life of j. Pierpont Morgan. cable
dispatch says that the premium paid
is per cent. per annum, but that some
policies have been issued on Mr.. Nor
CAMS life for three months at prem
ium of ASS per $1,000. The Gazette sug-
gests as a possible sequence of cause
and effect that perhaps this fact &C
counts for the sensational rumor that
Mr. Morgan is to be protected on his
arrival in New York from the threats
OF anarchists"
But the real significance of the mes
sage, says the New York Times, is that
Mr.. Morgan is probably the first man
outside of the King of England whose
death is considered important enough
py the general public to be insured
against
Not even the Rothschilds have been
so honored. 1t elevates this notable
american to a position in the eyes of
the British more important even than
any of their own public men. Not even
stie uedlnS OF Earl Roberts or Lord
kitchener would affect the welfare of
the British public seemingly as much
as would the death of the great cor
poration organizer
Ot course, large policies are carried
on King Edwards life and formerly on
the life of Queen Victoria, but there
are certain usages in England that
render this relatively imperative. The
great expense incurred by many per-
sons IN preparing for the coronation
Ieo them to insure the Kings life, and
Ihe course of events proved the wis
uom OF the procedure. But no other
man has been so honored. An official
Oh one of the large New York insur-
dhce companies was asked if any other
person had ever been insured by the
pubic in general. He said:
know of no other man except Mr.
morgan upon whose life a general poll
ICY has been issued. We do not insure
PUBLIC lives in America-not even that
Vi the President of the
The Savannah morning news., 1902-08-24

about him by the other beaus, who
never could be brought to consider
George seriously as a real swell
dresser" With. the exception of the
magnificent effort in the shoe buckle
lihe, George had not succeeded in
originating any new mode, but had
been forced to content himself with
wearing what some other beau had
first made fashionable.
Gout a Possible Factor.
Historians who have studied the
weighty subject of his reign add that
George and many of his courtiers were
afflicted sadly with govt, which is not
unreasonable when one considers some
of the quiet and elegant dinner parties
that he loved, like the one of which
Thackeray tells, when George, then
Prince Regent, his brothers and other
equally refined and kindly gentlemen
conspired successfully to make the
gray haired Duke of Norfolk blind
drunk
This govt caused unseemly swellings
and protuberances on the noble legs,
making them unpleasant objects when
incased in tight and thin silk stock
ings. And George was a Royal Simon
Tappertit so far as his pride in his legs
was concerned. Therefore, by becom-
ing the patron of the pantaloon,
George, at one blow could satisfy both
his ethical pride as beau and his
manly vanity as the most beautiful
male human object in his realm.
The pantaloon could have found no
more powerful supporter. For it was
then the badge of democracy, the gar
nent of the sans culotte of the French
Revolution; and it was only a great
exponent of royalty who could have
dared to press its claims. Although
the pantaloon had won adherents'
throughout France, 1t was palpably
worn less as a matter of fashion than
of politics. In that bizarre period
Frenchmen dressed their hair and their