Barre evening telegram. (Barre, Vt.) 1898-19??, 1902-11-05
THE WINE EXPERT.
.e MUST sE xs TEMPERATE As Az
ATHLETE ~ TRAINING
~ sight. SneIi and Taste he restf
the Quality Of LiasSrs asA Henes
He Must Lead q Life at Once Rig-
0P@us and Ascefc-

r.grrarce - well as many Wholesale
ard retzl iiqunr dealing lrrns employ
q w lie expert. II Is the dugy Ut this
a@am 10 pass upon t1e quality o. AZ
wines hr2n-les. whistles and QIle-
aln9AolIe tererG se= handed by lis
Aous4. he work. With an sr-pTy ston--
aeA. and le Z-skes lis tests Through
TIE three sens@s Of sight which tests
tie SPIRITS ctLo- and clarity; sE-el-
which tests It's od0r. and taste, the
ulosr important sezse- which tests srs
1avo<. To keep tAesa selSrs 81 oLee
delicate and sharp the expert raEsr ,oE
use tobacco and in the Use If liquors
ne must ~ temperate 10 t1e E,o-n- q
re@-nE4liS--
II tw9 glasses Of cA2- -ra g-1e are SET
before C. clever wine expert, or i
cha n1ya -ra Of the vintage q le<Si- he
other OF the vintage Of ls.-. L. Will
tell readily which i which There are
indeed & l.4lt doZea vlrEages which LIZ
can designate by their taste alone
without tA.. helpful l-ese1ee q the
Labeled bottle.
The wine expert Eus- also have &
profound knowledge Of rcd wines.
Auoag the red wines q France liz
must Je able to tell those OF tie Ga
rome from those Of Burgundy and of
DaupAiny.
IN the white wiaes also LIZ mgst BE-
learned and IL should have 10 ai-1-
Guilty IL Distinguishing ths chaMFa gnes
q Slllery. Of AZ, Of Rein1s and OF
Eperray and in Distinguishing ALSO
THEN besr vi1rz ge~- Among the othe-
French white wines be mus Know
those Of Sauterre, B2rsac- PreigI4c
and Bonmes- Ana the Spanish white
wines Of XereS. the German white
wines Of Joha anisters. SteiZberg and
Hockheim Eusr be Ike old tine friends.
WHISTLES and brandles are divisions
Of his WORK that are as important as
the wines He must tell 81 glance
whether q brandy has been aged in
wood Or In glass, and be must not only
separate with ease the Irish, the Scotch
and the American whistles, but be
even must designate the districts IN
which each was distilled.
Considering his knowledge the salary
Of the wine expert is rot great II
averages $40 a week. Occa sicnally il
falls as low as 80, and occasionally il
mounts TO munincence.
The expert must not eat rich heavy
foods and pastries. He must not Keep
late hours. His life, in & word, must
be as temperate as that Of an athlete
in training. This is in order that his
senses OF sight and taste and smell
may be at their best always. Smoking
is bad for the smell. rich foods are bad
for the taste; late hours or any sort Of
dissipation. even the mildeSt, Is bad
for the health generally and for all the
senses. sight in particular; hence the
rigorous and ascetic life Of the wine
expert.
The wine expert works with stomach
empty. for then his taste and smell are
at their keenest. He works ON bright
days only in a room flooded with sun
light. for then he can best weigh a
liquors color and lucidity. He uses
glasses of the oldest shapes-a differ
ent glass almost for every liquor-for
these help him to distinguish the most
delicate gradations of smell and color.
The brandy glass. for instance, has a
bowl almost as big as a washbowl.
The bottom Of this bowl the brandy
covers in the thinnest layer. The ex-
pert puts his face down close and. with
his lose inside the bowl. rolls the
brandy about. thus getting the full bou-
quet of the liquor.
He must never swallow the bever-
ages he tests. He holds them IN his
mouth about a minute, rolling them
upon his tongue and letting them
touch his palate. and that is sufficient
for an accurate judgment. To swallow
them would not aid him. for there are
no nerves Of taste in the stomach.
To swallow them would. on the con-
trary, hinder him, sending him drunk
to bed each testing day.
The expert Of large and fashiona-
BILE New York hotel in discussing the
other day his business said:
What is more difficult than TO de-
scribe in words the taste of anything?
How, for instance. would you say
what bread tastes like or meal or po-
tatoes:
But red wines have, after all, de-
Unable taste. The poor red wines are
earthly. They have a flavor of fresh
soil. The good ones taste like field
mushrooms, and the best ones taste
like truffies. But the taste Of whfs-
kies and brandies and white wines is
not to be defined in any such concrete
way as this.
THE wine science is nice one. Few
men know it. Few men indeed can
tell with their eyes shut whisky from
brandy or ale from beer Few men
who use liquor even know the wines
that custom demands should be drunk
with a dinner at which wine is
served