davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-03-23
DESKS EVERYWHERE.

81 have recently made an experiment. .
says d woman who is living the strenu-
GUS life Of a modern woman of affairs.
that has been productive of the most
beneficial results.
Up to last autumn kept my accumu-
lation of papers and letters together in
one big rolltop desk, where, l am free
to admit, they became often a cOngIom-
Grated miX-up from which it was almost
impossible to withdraw readily any de-
sired document. Then l had the bright
idea to separate my papers.
81 sold the desk and established three
in its place in three separate rooms. On
the parlor floor is a little mahogany
affair in which | easily corral all my
social correspondence, keep track of tea
social letter writing.
In the sitting room on the second
floor is another desk at which | have
centered what 1 call my organization
clubs an alumnae association and a.
patriotic society. / am also a director in
a hospital board and L do a little in or
gained church work. At this desk ev-
cry letter and pamphlet relating to these
things finds its way, and here | go for
writing in the line of any of these in
terestS.
In my own bedroom, the very holy Of
holes, / wreStle at a third desk with
housekeeping accounts / find this ar
rangenent extremely satisfactory.
Il go SO far as to feel that each desk
has its own atmosphere. and l don't be-
lieve now that L could write a social
letter at the club desk or make a com
nittee report in the distraction of the
butchers bill atmosphere. | feel like
Miss Wilkins, the author, who keeps two
stories going on two different typeWrit-
erS, changing from one to the other as
the inspiration seiZes her, but on no
account pursuing two plots on the same
machine -
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-03-23
HOW TO SEW ON BUTTONS.

1t is probable that the average woman
thinks she knows how to sew buttons on
the right way, but the chances are that
she never heard of the best way, so this
little story from an exchange is given
to enlighten her:
When l get a bright idea l always
want to pass it along" said a thrifty
housewife, as she sat watching a young
girl sewing. DO your buttons ever come
Off?
Ever? They're always doing it, They
are ironed off, washed off ana pulled off
until l despair. l seem to shed buttons
at every step
Make use of these two hints when you
are sewing them on, then, and see if
they make any difference. When you be-
gin, before you lay the button on the
cloth, put the thread through so that
the knot will be on the right side That
leaves it under the button and prevents
it being worn or ironed away, and thus
beginning the losing process. Then, be-
fore you begin sewing, lay a large pin
across the button, so that all your
threads will go over the pin. After you
have finished filing the holes with thread
draw out your pin and wind your thread
round and round beneath the button.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-03-23

Nandyked founce of cambria and lace
headed by wide band consisting of d; .
agonal strips of lace and cambria t11ck
lngs. Lace hOunces are exploited on high
priced lingerie. Narrow, deep and nedi-
UNI sized hounces are utilized on the
same skirt. A novelty introduced is tie
use Of band of insertion between each
founce a marked space being allowed
to intervene.
SWISS embroideries and yalencie;nas
and torchon laces are the most admired
trimmings for underskirts. When rib.
bons are applied in any shape, the wash
able satin quality is preferred.
The camisOles combined with these
white petticoats match in pattern the
trimming upon the skirts. Ruchines an
piled to the bust give a flare to nat
chested figures, while a bolero edged with
fr'h and covered with an inserted pat
tern in lace is regarded as the most eff.
fective finish for thin figure
PetticOats of the non-washable tyre
are made of taffetas, surah, brocades.
Glace silk, moreen, mercerized sateen and
black mohair. The silk and cotton chris
are trimmed according to taste. the
simpler grades being adorned only with
three or four narrow founces or a deep.
plated founce finished off with a mar
row. ruffied one. A stiff cording apout
the knees preserves the shape Of the
cheaper skirts.
Every well dressed woman should own
at least one silk skirt. Besides This she
ought to have a moreen one for ordinary
wear. and several of the washable sort
for best gowns and wash frocks are adj
visible. 1t is better to economic il, some
other way than to endeavor to do 50
with pettcoats. The beauty of the
Frenchwomans toilet is that it is Just
lot,
it is outside
Open mesh fabrics are among the pref
test of the seasons offerings. A wool
canvas in silver gray made up over gray
tatfeta is one of the handsomest of the
spring model gowns. 1t is very simple in
construction, the waist with the dip in
front, which is characteristic of the
season, having no other decorations than
those afforded by some appliqaes Of gray
silk and smartly stitched seams The
skirt is completed with a circular gradu-
atcd fiounce finished above and below
with half a dozen narrow plaits The
seams of the skirt are stitched and a
gIrdle consisting of plated silk is shaped
to the figure just below the waist line 4
short, round yoke of lace over silk falls
from the lace and the silk collar at the
throat. The sleeves are quite plain exS
cept for the appliqued design of silk
which matches the pattern upon the
bodice. narrow, pointed cuff affords
the finish at the wrist
The popularity of ruffies has led dress
makers to devise new ways of using
them. One of the innovations is the pIac-
r ing of them upon the skirt as far apart
as space and good taste will ahow On a
recently designed evening frock of fine
meshed brussels net three narrow frills
occupied two-thirds the depth of the
70 10 in, },
We're applied-one and a lalf times the
depth of each frill being allowed between
them. The skirt was made with yoke
Of italian lace embroidered in silver, the
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-03-23

or vase was mended it was supported so
that the fragment could not fall off.
Elastic bands, bandages of Irvine or
linen or supports consisting of several
I books laid to hold them in place were
devices for securing the broken sections
until they had dried. The rehabilitation
of china broken into several pieces was
the work of several days, for only one
bit could be added to the main portion
al time. Each day another piece would
be put on, until all had dried in place
Broken furniture received attention
after the china and glass. To put to-
gether a glue pot was improvised Il
was only an empty jam pot placed in a
pan OF boiling water Glue, be it known,
may not be subjected to the direct heat
from a fire for fear of burning. The
glue was delicate amber colored sub
stance Of the best quality for the SUPER
visor of the mending said that the poor
er ana cheaper kinds were too evil smell
ing to be tolerated. Each cake of the
glue was wrapped in a piece of muslin
and then powdered with a hammer be-
lore 1t was sifted into the inner not.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-03-23
II IS only The stupid cook who imagiaes

1t is only the stupid cook who ilnagiaes
that boiled baked, poached. scrambled
and fried eggs. together with an cca3-
sional omelet. represent the entfr, Gull
nary possibilities Of this nutritious r5ad
mere are hundred novel and delicious
ways OF serving eggs. Here are several
SUGGESTIONS sufficiently unique to be in
teresung.
Egg Flip-Take half cup Of milk hatr
cup Of barley water tmade from ire
pared barley and strained) two m three
pieces OF loaf sugar. Boil and pour on !.
WeH-beaten new laid egg beating nm tl,,
Tune Put a tablespoonful of brandy ina,
Il basln and pour the mixture ON il SIM
beating It, This will DE found most
AqTlalllous meal for delicate invalid
E8SS La Sultane-Beat together The
yolkS on two eggs with q tahlesp11rtf.I
OF ohNe OH and a full dessertspoonfuI If
any good ehutney to taste and pour Ills
8 8rgI Wen mixed On to a treproof lish.-
% D a1as1,uIouf eSgs; one at time, very
carefully on to the sauce and place tba
ulSi ~ a moderate oven till the ays are
set. Serve very hot.
Egg rissoles and tomato sauce are cx-
SeeqlhSly good. Boil six eggs till Nefv
hard. Then throw them into cold wafer.
ana remove the shells Take ont tha
EolhS ana place them in a mortar. Adj
70 tnein TWO ounces of bread-rumbs
which have been previously soaked m
mix, a teaspOOnful of fine minced onion
g teaspoonful Of minced parsley. pepper
aIu SAT- TO taste and one ounce Of but
ter. Pound all together until thcv Re
come stiff paste Then add the whites
OF the eggs chopped small ana mix
thotSughIy. Bind with the yolk Of Il
Well-beaten egg. Shape into rfSs0Ias air
II egg and breadcrumhs and fry iu boil
ing tat till Of a light golden brown nue..
rake out quickly. Drain carefully an
ctean hltchen paper. dish up on squares
of crisply fried bread or buttered tolst,
pour little tomato sauce round the
base and serve at once. Do not attempt
70 Try TOO many at once or the fat "a lin
sequence Time for cooking ana prapar.-
ton IS from thirty-tre to forty minutes.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-03-23
JUST A HINT.

sable cloth is quite a new fabric, being
made up as winter costume, partaking
much Of the nature Of zibeline, but rich
er IN its effects of light shade in the
foids. This is to be obtained in many
colors, but looks lovely in deep violet
with a glow of red in it,
Inc long lace scarf-sOmetimes called
sash ends depends from the back Of
mats to shoulders waist. or even to the
Knees. IN either black or white, making
an eHecuYe addition to q gown for soma
GSeFemonlous afternoon occasion. = 20
I Ions ana proad scarfs OF black Spanish
lace nave been used this way on a gown
on on white lace richly jetted, the scarfs
Duckled together at the center of the bod
Ice in front. the buckle ct the same t.T1a
fastening fastening an Empire belt passing Just
under the arms. The lace rs drawn :f
nigh, fiat folds over the shoulders and
crossing at the back is passed under the
DeIt to descend loosely to form the train
The woman whose coat collar ts IA
We wears her lace scarfs in the form Of 4
yen, around her hat first. and then
brought forward round her neck ana
tieq IN fun, fluffy bow under her chin
A brooch of art nouveau Jewel work is
USED to hold the bow in Mace "
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-03-23

weight, since our best houses have pro-
duced skirts made in their own work
rooms !. ON the newest models When
Of net, lace, crepe de chine and other
sort textures, and the correct length and
waist measures are obtained, the skirt
is generally good fit when worn over
a well cut slip, and every smart woman
is certain to have two or three of these
in her wardrobe.
The very inexpensive skirts are not
advisable either in black or white, but
a good black skirt can be bought for
from $40 to $50 and this will bear day-
light The amount allowed for the bod
ice is usually sufficient for long sleeves
as well as the low bodice. and if made
with tiny sleeves and a low neck long
sleeves can be put in for the summer
and the neck filed in with lace yoke.
The long sleeves can be put into silk
slip quite tight fitting, and the mate
cial cut away from the low bodice win
form vest fronts, with a high yoke and
collar band of lace jour, and over ali
smart finish could be obtained with a
bolero of lace or embroidered net. Where
there is not much use for the the real
evening gown it is wise to plan out the
summer bodice when buying the skirt
and avoid such will give the impress
sion OF a renovated evening gow
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-03-23

Ihere Is one garment which all women
are FEELING strongly about at the moment.
ana that is a really ideal tea or lounge
gown. There is nothing so delicious after
a days hard exercise as to get quickly
INTO a garment in which one feels ones
pest. Inc contrast between the hard
lines Of a tailor made and the beau
tlful lights and shades Of a tea gown
appears TO every woman with the true
sense of beauty
beIVeteen is an excellent material for 4
tea gown for the economical Liberty
VelYeteen in soft shades really hangs
better than velvet, and, remember a tea
gown to be successful must hang"
Nothlng is more lovely than the new
tones OF cerise and tomato purples and
gTayS and pale green's
very effective are the japanese silks
turnedaback with revers of CONTRASTING
colors For extra warmth a quilt lining
can beaded. Another inexpensive fabric
Is white cashmere interined with nuns
yelling and prettily trimmed with lace
ana hanging stoles of the silk and a
glrdle of gold or embroidery.
The tea gown admits of many possi-
blllucs, but it must always be draped bv
a master hand. Altogether it can be a
mysterious picture evening frock Of glor-
lous crepe de chine. oriental lace, chiffon
and everything that the luxury loving
nature of the woman of fashion de Tres.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-03-23

lace being set into the bodice above the
waist line to suggest a ceinture while a
draped hchu Of mousseline de sole was
arranged above a shoulder ruffie Of the
net. The sleeves, reaching not quite to
the elbow, were completed by narrow
frills embroidered in silver.
The sameness of effect impaired by
lace trimmings is varied by the use of
stitching put on spring gowns in scrolled
or straight lines. These may be adopted
even with filmy evening dress. as they
lmpart fetching aspect to almost any
1fock at the slightest expense for trim
mings. With the new pompadour silks
this decoration is seen to particular ad-
vantage, the bands being of a shade to
match some touch of color in the flowers.
White cloth gowns are to be among the
springs most cherished types For sew
eral seasons the white cloth frock has
been favored but for the spring and
summer of 1902 it will have a more de-
clded following. White may be renovated
so thoroughly and so eastly-a little ben
zine applied with a sponge will remove
finger marks and the lighter stains--and
looks so much better than a co;ored
dress when it is returned from the clean
er's hands that many women who have
hitherto rejected white cloth costume;
on the score of economy are discove,-
ing their mistake. Dull ocher tints Of
lace and cloth are utilized in decorating
some of the most up-to>date white frucks
one of brOadcloth made with long, deep
Louis XIV. coat was strapped with stitch
esd bands of ocher CLOTH, which covered
darts and seams, allowing the white
fabric to form loose box plaits below the
waist. A crossed girdle of velvet was
drawn from underneath the front strap.
pings of the coat, giving the impression
of a short waistcoat. Over the shoulders
fell a vandyked collar Of cloth edged wish
lace motifs.
The sleeves were very full ones Of the
bishop order and were covered at the
wrists by pointed vandyke cuffs of lace
A lace scarf knotted about the throat
dropped daintily over the coat and
formed two lines of flowing white reach
ing almost to the skirt. The large carved
ivory buttons gave a touch of coicy- to
the jacket; otherwise, save for the lines
of ocher stitching the costume was OF
spOtless white
White cloth indoor gowns as well as
gowns for street wear are made as sim
ply as art can devise. White silks, lawns
and mulls also follow this rule, making
striking contrast to the richly decorated
white frocks of last year. Plaitngs.
folds and stitchings have taken the place
of lace. Catherine Talbot
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-03-23

~ ARTS. March 22.-Not less inter
81 esting than spring gowns is the
- subject of spring lingerie; one
Of these influences the characte~
= Of the other. Until a woman
knows Just how her new skirt
is to hang she cannot be assured of what
to select in the way of petticoats
Happily the spring and summer skirt
has been authOritatiVely defined and the
inspection of 'jupes," as the French call
petticoats, may go merrily on.
large and handsome assortment Of
such lingerie will be imperative during
the coming season for any woman who
aspires to be well dressed. This is partly
due to the projected popularity OF
diaphanous stuffs and partly to the great
vogue of wash materials for understands
SILK and moreen are practically relegated
to Obscurity. In place of them white lawn
and cambria skirts deliberately trimmed
with lace are shown i'll all the great
shops.
The style Of a gown is so greatly in
huenced by the lingerie that at least one
OF the great mOdistes during the present
demand for eel-like garments endeavored
to promote the success of a princess
undergarment, including a petticoat and
corset cover or a camisOle in one piece.
| was shown a model of this the other
day when l dropped into a shop to look
over the latest spring fabrics. The pet
ticOat was what madame called the
princess, and there was nothing about
the waist to detract from its smoothness
A dart and several narrow plaits mold
the waist to the shape. Cut low about
the neck and edged with a ruching of
lace, the shoulder straps of ribbon give
a touch of daintineSs to the bodice
The aOunce on the skirt. shaped in
graduated length from front to back, is
also headed with a lace ruching Fine
white lawn batiste was the material Sc
lected for the model.
Another modiste, a maker of tailored
garments, recommends the modified d.
vided petticoat because it permits a grace
full carriage, since it's folds will not i'm
pede the figure in walking. One of the
models of this skirt was of the new pom
padour silk plentifully Powered with pale
blue and trimmed below with two deep
hOunces of frosty lace The skirt was cut
in eight pieces-two for the front two
for the sides. two for the back and two
small circular sections to form the yoke
in front. NainSOOk, Surah lawn or
batiste appear to excellent ADVANTAGE in
this divided skirt, although it is only fair
to warn those who think of adoptine if
that it is likely to cause many difficulties
for the laundress woh is compelled to iron
It. White silk. which requires no ironing
is the most desirable stuff for a petticoat
of this type.
Cambria skirts trimmed with vandyked
Aounces headed with bands of insertion
and ornamental borders wrought from
the same insertion are pretty. Cambria
trimmed with deep, tucked fiounce gar
nished with lace and insertion is an
other variety of the wash skirt. The
handsomest of the cambria petticoats
shows a hounce comprising half its depth
and composed Of vertical insettings OF
shaped insertions alternated with tucked
sections of cambria. Another design
shows skirt ornamented with a narrow
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-03-23
Modes in Coats

The Russian bolero is, happily. still
with us and likely to remain for the
present.; but, contrary to last season 3
decree 1t is being supplemented in many
instances with little bagques, the smart
est OF which are those starting from the
hps to the back, and even short coat
tails, thus bringing it nearer to the
original garment from which it takes its
name, at the same 8time revealing tho
trend of Dame Fashions affections to-
ward longer coat. -
III spite of the dead set which women
OF snort stature are making against n
the advent of the tight fitting three
quarter coat is perceptible on all sides
Whether It's reign will be a long one or
whether popular prejudice will eyict II
early in its career is stilIin "the Ian of
the gods, but at present it threatens to
reign supreme.
In some instances a deep BASQUE is
scanned on to the waist line and put in
in fun rlaits. stitched securely down
half way, but in spite Of the undenia-
pie Smartness of this style it is one
which requires an exceptionally good fig
ure to carry it off.
Velvet, of a deeper shade than the ma
'terlal, and braid are both much used as
trimmings, and there is a tendency with
some dreSsmakers to outline the COAT
with band Of one or the other in place
81 plplng. Other welcome innovations ara
the silk cords twisted or Knotted and Nc
embroidered silk buttons of the late sew
- 80 -NNNS N'NF
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-03-23

and allow them to dry thoroughly near
the fire or in the SUM-
While the broken ware was drying the
cement was made.
If we mix it ourselves, it will cost so
much less" the thrifty neighbor advised
The recipe called for two drains Of
lsinglass to be left in water until it was
soft. 1t was then placed in a pot which
was put in a saucepan of water and held
over the fire till the isinglass was quite
melted one dram of powdered gum
mastlc was dissolved in little alcohol:
the latter was added in small quantities
until the gum was of the consistency of
cream A dram of powdered gum am
monlacum was added to the mastic and
the whole was strained through muslin.
This was to be added in drops to the
lslnglass stirring well all the time until
it became thin like milk and water.
This mixture served for mending both
china and glass 1t was applied to the
edges Of the broken ware while the pieces
were still warm from the fire. ONLY
enough cement was put on the china to
secure it in place, and when the plate
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-03-23
AN OLD CHINA CUP.

Dainty ami white, fragile and light,
See how it CLOVIS on the manteI tonight
LAST of its set. taper and jet
Tinge. i like pearl with old memories
light.
When she was wed, grandmother said.
Twenty and-twO Of them Spanked like
snow
Saucers for mates tea urn and plates.
There they all stood In a giisteniug row.
Now there's but ono under the sun
Willed-
Quaint as old lace. sweet az her face.
Dear as the love Of the heart that Is
stilled.
There let it stay. frailest Of clay
Touch il not, sweet, with Il finger tip,
pray!
Look at it, So all IN loves glow.
Relic Of gTanGmOther's happiest dayi
James Buckman in the Smart Set
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-03-23

Pure Air at Home

Homemade pine air, equally as bene-
Hclai FOR persons with lung or throat
trouble as the genuine product. has been
introduced by an ingenious inventor His
-opJect\ was 10 bring the balm eNhaling
pine woods to the patient when it was
impossible to take the patient to the
woods In this he seems to have sue
ceeded. He has invented an apparatus
that acts on the principle Of a Meeting
furnace. Inside the furnace layers OF pine
wood are alternated with layers of a
sloW-DurnlnS material. When the fire is
introduced and the furnace closed the
mass smOlders for weeks
Inc Vapors emanating from the bum
ing pine are caught in a tank cleansed
thoroughly, and the purified vapor is con-
Quoted through pipes to rooms all over
the building
The Napor is said to have an invigorat-
ing effect on those who inhale i ana
seems 70 nave all the qualities of the air
from the pine forest
In purifying the vapor liquid is OBJ
tanned which is said to have a very heal
ing effect when applied 10 bruises and
sores. r-=
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-03-23
DAINTY SUMMER STOCKINGS

Now that the time for low street Shoes
e; dsdin drawing near, maid and matron
Is beginning to concern herself with t5n
DHhns question of dainty stockTnos
Not that she ever fails to have a nartjcIy
i ar interest in this part OF her appareI
Dut naturally the low shoe demands tbn
Eprettlest effects in hosiery Because bay
Iashlouably made low shoe admits nf fbo
wearing and ar occasional displayine
Loo LOO, OF dainty stockings, the smartIv
gowned woman has chung to her low, sbo,.
through all kinds of weather.
me ne loW-shoe habit is, in fact one the
1aSnlonable woman acquires with ex
IRENE ease BY the end Of summer bto1,
boots represent to her mind ali that 7ie
clumsy and uncomfortable in the wav Of
footwear and when autumn comes she
cannot quite make up her mind TO give IN
the smart low ones, so she c0mnToroigap.
low cut - Q
Even When there appears a slight fan
of snow she still dares to venture form 80
her favOrite low shoes. -