The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-05-23
PRETTY SUMNER GOWNS
SIMPLICITY ONE OF THE HARDEST
THINGS TO SECURE AT PRESENT.
Decentralization Is the Tendency,
with Danger of Missing Important
Elements of Beauty.


proved apparatus. elaboration is almost too
easily accomplished. There are times when,
looking over the latest models. 1 stop to
ask, Is all art dead? Do we know nothing
but fanciful and marvellous combinations?
Is true beauty no longer recognized? As
told you, last week, stitching hand work
all that goes to make up elaboration of de-
tail is in vogue. Since that writing some
instances have been brought to my notice
that are so far more remarkable for diff
Guilty than for any results given that all
this question of the eternal change has
been brought to my mind afresh We
would seem to have acquired every posi-
bic material weave and design Color has
been improved until we now demand a
dozen shades where two or three once
made up the list All possible combinations
have been devised. AS a clever designer
herself remarked. nothing remained but to
allow the pendulum to swing back TO sim
plicity, or evolve these marvellous creations
that mean time and labor and are intricate
In the exereme. Simplicity seemed too far
from present taste and, as a result we are
offered many more costly and extravagant
designs than we see beautiful or graceful
ones If one desire to be truly well dressed
she must be chary and look well before
taking the final leap As is always the
case, the most fanciful designs are made
up in the least desirable materials. Really
good dressmakers know better than to
overload either the material or the wearer.
While actual simplicity is difficult to find,
the truth remains that the most elegant
gowns are those most free of fuss. One of
the few novelties of the season is entire
gowns with Monte Carlo" or loose box
coats, made en- suite genuine eIeganto,
to use the untranslatable French, has
recently ordered one that fifty IL
lustrates the point and goes to show how
exquisite is lace legitimately used The
material is black taffeta, lustrous and soft
nnlshed. At the lower edge Of the skirt is
deep hounce of violet oVerlaid By one of
me black chantilly. The blouse waist
SHOWS lace over the lovely-colored silk in
the coat Includes touches of the same on
me ample sleeves and finishing the neck
With the costume Is to be worn a toque of
Vlolets. As matter of course, it suits the
carriage only and is made en- train Those
loose coats seldom smart worn with
any shorter skirt: but the principle of style
Is not changed by the fact. The lovely lace
Is brought out to perfection by the color
over which ii is laid, and there Is a general
air OF elegance about the costume that no
amount OF fuss could bring about. To be
am reminded, as | write. of the wrath of
a certain poor woman. depicted somewhere
in fiction. over the comment made on a
wealthy rivals gown, velvet with point
lace and diamonds, which her admirers de-
scribed as so simple il seemed a pity that
others could not learn therefrOm." II is
always easy TO make handsome materials
up with little trimming and obtain a good
effect. whereas simple things often require
elaboration of detail: but this truth I have
in mind and must not be misunderstood TO
mean that muslin can be treated after the
manner of lace, cashmere after the manner
of bTocade. The fact | want to empha size
is simply the foolshness of cutting elegant
material out in squares to insert bits of
lace, of seemingly applying one thing over
another without reason and without regard
10 beauty. Yet supposedly elegant gowns
are often so trimmed and. as result, in
Vulnerable limitations are put upon the mar
kot. Hand painting and embroidery are
most desirable forms OF decoration. but a
parasol OF white painted in cherries and a
goltng vest embroidered with intertwined
thistles and golf sticks are surely more re-
markable for the labor involved than for
any aesthetic pleasure they can give.
SOME DESIRABLE THINGS.
Among the really delightful and desir-
able things. of which there are many, are
fascinating suits and gowns of taffeta and
shepherds plaid and the slightly larger
checks. Years ago similar materials were
in vogue under the name of summer silks
but, in common with all revivals in dress
these newer fabrics are better and give evil
dence of Improvement. Gowns of many
sorts are made therefrom, but none are so
charming and so practical as the simple
ones in shirtwast eton style. For after
noon wear the pretty shirrwaists, or blous-
es. with long skirts and trimmed with bands
of plain color are charming. One seen
within the past two days is black and
white and is trimmed with narrow bands
of black. while with it was a fluffy
ruche of point d'esprit. For morning
shopping and travelling the skirt that clears
the ground is best, and with il an eton
or a blouse coat. Lovely ones with bands
Of the same. cut bias and piped with plain
color are seen and appeal TO every Guilt
waited sense The material sheds the dust
is light of weight, cool-an ideal combina-
ton of qualities for a warm weather out
Mt. Silks for summer wear were never
more tempting than at the present time
In addition to foulards we have pongee in
many colors, louisines, crepes. habutai and
what not? A really striking gown is of
a way that is quite novel and effective. The
skirt is made with a graduated circular
fiounce that is headed by cream Irish
crochet that in turn, is edged with mar
row black velvet ribbon. The bodice an
open blouse, with big square collar, shows
the same finish. and is worn with a sash
and cravatte of black velvet II is aston
ishing how the touches of black serve to
emphasize the color of the pongee and the
deep cream of the lace. and what a touch
of character they give to the entire gown
White. with deep cream, too, is much seen
and is always good. Some exquisite hats
for street and general wear are shown by
a leading dealer and serve TO emphasize the
beauty of the combination. The founda-
ton is Japanese straw. in its natural cream
shade and in walking shape. The trim
ming is pure white lousine, and the softest
possible white breasts. The straw is so
light as to have almost perceptible
weight. and as the ribbon is far from heavy
the hats are comfortable and hygienic, as
well as essentially smart. White, by the
way, is 10 be worn in all degrees of weight
in all grades of quality and. apparently
for all hours of the day. White mohair
walking costumes are charming, and as
they shed SOIL less impractical than at first
appears. An elegant example is quite sim
pie. but the smarter for that fact The
skirt is cut in seven cores that flare free
with stitched bands of the material over
each seam. The accompanying jacket is a
blouse. and beneath il are TO be worn the
thinnest of white shirtwaists.
GARMENTS OF LACE
Not white lace alone but black also is
much in vogue and is freely used, both as
entire gowns and parts thereof A lovely
black chantilly is made over white taffeta
yelled with chiffon and is exquisitely soft
and beautiful. really handsome gown of
softest black louisine is combined with
lace of the same sort and touches of pastel
blue that render il charming in the ex-
treme- The skirt is cut in succession Of
narrow cores at front and sides each Of
which is tucked vertically 10 founce DEPTH
then allowed 10 fall in soft folds. Between
these cores and taking the place of seams