Omaha daily bee., 1902-11-16

%tleties, let the modern novelist steer clear
Of skirt talk.
But to begin myself, the events that
the peplum and postillion tails seemed to
foreshadow have not been as disastrous as
was feared. In other words, the overskirt,
that much anticipated evil, is still await
Ing the will of woman, who dispcses that
her long, cllnging lines shall not be in
terfered with. Skirt draperies were woeful
destroyers Of grace, and we have reason
to rejoice that the few Greek effects which
appeared at the beginning Of the season
were quickly frown down.
On the other hand, the trimmings which
effect a compromise between the perfectly
plain stage and the too-trimmed stage are
everywhere seen and becoming to all ex-
cept thick-set figures.
Take the improvements on the graduated
founce alone. At one time this obscured
only one line. a line hedging no appreciable
depth in front, but which mounted so high
at the back as almost to divide the skirt
into two equal parts. This was found try
ing to short figures, and not especially
identifying TO tall ones when 1t became
the fad to exAggerate the length and slim
ness Of skirts. So the graduated founce
became a thing of distracting subtleties
narrowing to five or six inches at the front
and rising into points above this at each
side VI tie narrow apron gore. At the
back Tie old curve is still observed, but
the hounce there is less deep than for
merly, and 1t is no uncommon thing for a
skirt to have plain apron and fiounced
back breadths.
The smart costumes seen in a hotel tea
room patronized by society were distin-
guished by these odd skirts. A soft black
and white checked wool made a walking
gown Of rare elegance. Bands of white
suede, edged with black and worked with
French knots, trimmed this delightfully."-.
The skirt model showed a plain apron,
very narrow at the top and faring widely
at the bottom. The back OF the skirt was
cut bell-shape and ornamented with five
f~iounces. headed by a band of the embroid-
cred suede. The stole-like drop at the slde'
was repeated in a becoming hip trimming
A Charming Creation.
A more pretentious, but scarcely more
charming. creation was In champagne
crepe de chine (that pinkish lace, yol
know, with bodice and skirt decorations o.
velvet and lace guipure. This trimming
was In green and black-in form a pointed
edge. which outlined the plain apron o.
the skirt and enclosed a tucked band a
the sides and back. Below the band
shaped ~hounce, lightly tucked at the top
accomplished the side plane and train.
Still another costume skirt showed al
apron In heavy kits, with a short kiltet
hounce headed by three bias bands hnish
ing the other breadths. Black velvet wal
the material Of this fine dress, which, de
spite some handsome set buttons and JACKIE
trimmings Of Bruges lace. expressed al
almost tailor-like simplicity. The button.
were enormous, suggesting bTooches. ii
fact, with a petaled edge breaking thei
roundness. Four fastened the double BOZ
coat, while a NTH. with pendelogues, hel,
the garment together at the bust.
With all dressy skirts the lining is II
"drop' shape and 1t goes without saying
that only silk doublings are used.
The tendency everywhere is to avoit
stiffness. produce lines that are easy an,
changing, rather than fixed, and the sepa
ration Of the skirt from the doubling is
prime factor in the accomplishment of this
A glove-like At over the hips and an ute
absence Of ~fullness at the plaoket point ar
distinguishing Gestures Of the new tailo
skirt, some OF which are in shaped 90
pleats. held together at the top with so
seams. Below these the uncaught pleat
care out. hounce fashion.
Side pleated skirts are much seen, witt
many devices in trimming to break the still