The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1902-02-16

and have found them more satisfactory
for color suggestion than almost any other
nature models, though we use nowers ana
Some OF the students are very qmok
| TO catch the inspiration. Others are slow.
| All improve wonderfully with study.
Next to the nature designs were water
color reproductions OF EXQUISITE .eaune
in design and color blending. Sometimes
in place OF reproducing the fabric exactly
the student il required to take the design
and c~ontrive a color scheme FOR II.
In the wall cabinets are glowing Dits o.
| color-pottery, Venetian glass. metal, all
used for color suggestion and line, In the
| training of the students.
After the designs are made, their practical
value must he tested, IL Is useless 70 pic
! ture a costume that cannot be carried out
in fabrics and trimmings; 80 the designers
must go TO the shops and see what they
can find that will carry out their idea
The cleverest Of the students work with
this problem in view and In their designing
but its practical possibilities. Problems
Of proportion, the adapting OF modes 70
varying kinds of figures, the utilizing OF
historic fashions ia modern dressmaking
all these and a host Of other questions
come up for careful study.
The present day skirt is the object OF q
consideration almost prayerful. With It's
serpentine clinging c~loseness over the hips,
its swish and swirl and multiplicity OF lines
below the knees, 1t is a staggereT to the
average expert dressmaker. Small wonder
that it is taken seriously in the ~dressmaking
classes, and that everything from the Elgin
marbles to the butterflies and morning
glories Ia pressed into service in Its study.
Never, never was there a time when the
making Of a dress skirt called for such
cunning art az II demands now" said the
teacher, and she undoubtedly stated q fact.
1t IL wonderful and a triie fearful this
modern skirt.
I'VE turn away orders constantly. or
course, only al students work on
customers materials All the early work
is lone upon practice materials,
"The girls learn cutting and hitting,
practising on lay figures or upon each other.
They must become expert in all sorts OF
finishing, fancy stitches, all the detail work.
I'VE Used to include tailoring in the first
years work. II was too much. Now we
leach only such tailor finish as any good
dressmaker may he expected TO know.
Definite tailor work may be studied III "a
second years course, II desired.
when the tudents are far enough along
they take up orders, under the teachers
supervision. In the lower grades, lingerie,
babies clothing and shirt waists are made.
-The advanced dressmaking students
make the gowns. A gown is given 10 one
or two students. They are responsible for
it from start TO finish, designing, cutting,
fitting, inc all, though, OF course, they have
advice and supervision.
-The price paid, less 10 per cent, goes
70 the students who make the gown. Many
OF the girls pay all their tuition In that way.
The work j. ~slow-three weeks being re-
uuired for q gown-but the price is mode
rate, from $40 70 SIS, and as SAID, we
have more orders than we can fill, much
Of the time.
The home course students do not AL
orders, They work on practice materials
and later on their own gowns.
1T Il difficult to find girls who sew eIQui-
sitely enough 10 do satisfactory work on
fine lingerie and bsbies' clothes, but we try
TO train them In our plain sewing classes,
and we fnd a good sale for such work"
SDo the graduates find employment
easilyi'
Yes, they do. Some Of them 60 into
large establishments. Many start out az
private seamstresses, charging good prices;
and. after acquiring experience and ac-
quaintance, set up dressmaklng estabush-
mouts of their own.
a few students plunge. right at first.
into the thick of the fray and open estab-
lishments "a soon az they leave here. save
i'm exceptional cases. such a course as the
last is hardly NJ advisable, for. no matter how
thorough IA training a girl may have had
here, she needs practical experience.
-Still. one Of last years graduates IL
running a fourishing business and has
lust turned out an imposing. trousseau.
Several more OF last wear ; Cldee uTt III
the most important drcssmaking concerns
of New York. in responsible places. Many
Of our students are in charge Of other dress
making schools throughout the country.
we feel very much pleased with our
record and the condition of the school,
but there Is still much to be done. We need
an Intermediate course, between the plain
sewing aud the dressmaking. That means
that we need more room, more teachers.
1--WE not told you about all OF the features
Of the course, and the lecture on historic
costume. AL the topics belonging 10 the
art side of d~ressmaking are important.
Then tho physical culture and the woman y
gymnasium department was started IN
connection with our work.
Seems odd? Oh, ! don't think so. We
teach the girls that no women can look
well in her clothes unless she has a well
developed body TO put the clothes on
and we Law stress on the importance OF the
appearance and bearing Of a dressmnker.
She should produce a pleasant IMPRESSION
advertise her own wares. Too many OF the
old stvle dressmakers overlook that point.
Another thing we insist upon Our
students, professional students l mean,
must AVE had at least a grammar school
education. You can't make a good dress
maker out of an iliterste girl to-day: The
profession requires too much intelligence
and art feeling"