Amador ledger., 1902-01-17
FOLLIES OF FASHION
SARTORIAL vAGARIES OF THE CEN
TURIES THAT ARE GONE.

the Time of Chaucer Raiment
That RivaIed the Rainbow and
Men Who Starched Their Boards.
1t is little gratifying to reflect that.
however the man of today may COM
pare with his ancestors of bygone cen
turies in physique and morals, his
dress Is much more moderate and in
expensive, even If it Is less pictur-
esque, than theirs.
1t is true that here and there one
may find some foolish young man
whose taste in dress is as extravagant
as that Of any buck" of the days of
the Georges. There is, for instance, a
son of well known peer who has the
| reputation of never wearing a suit
twice. He has a wardrobe of waist
coats Of all the colors of the rainbow,
ranging from a light blue spangled
with silver stars to a deep green satin
with buttons of eighteen carat gold,
each Of which is adorned with the
painted face of beautiful woman.
Another wealthy aristocrat is credit
ed with having as many suits and uni
forms as there are days In the year
and with spending on his tailor's bill
sum which would pay the yearly
salary of a minor cabinet minister.
But such men are modestly arrayed
compared with the dandies of many
past century. The earl of Northum-
berland who lived in the latter part of
the fourteenth century boasted no few
er than sixty suits of CLOTH ef gold
alone, and the bishop of Ely of that
time had change Of raiment for eF-
cry day of the year.
Much later, In Queen Mary's time,
the wardrobe of a bishop might have
been the envy of Solomon for the va
riety and costliness of It's contents, and
even a simple village priest. according
to Fuller, wore "a vestment Of crimson
satin, vestment of crimson velvet a
stole and fanon set with pearl. gowns
faced with taffetas, ETC.
In the days of Chaucer fashionable
men wore clothes as many coiored as
Joseph's coat, so that while one leg
would be a blaze of crimson the other
would be tricked out in green or blue
or yellow. without any regard to har-
mohy or contrast"
Even as late as the middle OF the
eighteenth century dandy would deck
himself in "a vivid green coat, a waist
coat Of scarlet, yelloW breeches and
blue stockings" and the gentleman of
a few years later wore. among SINH
lar sartorial vagaries, "a coat of light
green, with sleeves too small for the
arms and buttons too big for the
sleeves; q pair of Manchester fine stuff
breeches, without money In their poek.
cts; clouded silk stockings. club of
hair behind larger than the head that
carries it, a hat of the size of a six
pence on a block not worth a far.
thing"
At one fashionable epoch our ances-
tors, to quote the words of a quaint
chronicler, would weare clothes so
tighte to ye skin that it might well be
Gpnceived they wore no clothes at ALL"
and at another they would wear them
$50 yoluminous that q single suite
might well have afforded rayment for
q whole familie, and SO stuffed out
with feathers that, Of verify, their
wearers resembled nothing so much as
walking sackes."
At another period It was the gro
tesque fashion to combine on one per-
son the dress Of all the countries of
Europe-the hat would be Spanish, the
coat French, the trousers Turkish, and
so on-so that the wearer was walk
ing epitome Of the dress of a CONT
nent,"
At one time shoes would be worn
with square toes of such width that a
royal proclamation was issued limiting
the width to six inches, and these
shoes were succeeded by others which
came to the finest Of points at the toes.
In Henry IFS time shoes with points
two feet long were worn by the fash
ionables, and in the reign of Henry
". these points had grown to such an
inordinate length that in order to be
able to walk at all It was necessary to
attach the tips to the knees by chains,
which were of gold or silver, while the
tops of the shoes were carved with all
kinds of fantastic designs.
Il the early part Of the eighteenth
century it was a common thing for q
man Of fashion to spend several hours
day with his valet, among the many
quaint operations being 'the starching
of the beard and the proper perfuming
of garments. the painting of the face
and amounting with oils. tinctures. quin
tessences and pomatums.' 1t is even
said that some of the dandies of the
time bathed in wine and milk for the
preservation Of their compilations and
the rejuvenation of their energies."-
London Tit-Bits.
Works Like n Charm.
Hanson-Wonder how it is that the