The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-08-30
A CHAPTER ABOUT HATS
FORECAST OF THE sTLYEs IN HEAD
WEAR TO BE IN VOGUE THIS FALL.
The General shape Is Flat, but Trim
mings Modify It-No Comfort for
the AudubOnites.

/ are the models. so numerous the shades and
/ gradations of color. Yet, while this truth
/ is paramount and makes the first impress
sion on the mind, closer observation reveals
/ certain tendencies apparent in all certain
! characteristics that mark the date quite
/ as surely were there fewer colors, less
variety Of trimming, more limited range of
materials. To be correct the hat must be
/ low, almost fat and broad. 1t may be
/ sailor, it may be a turban, it may be a
vertable picture hat but whichever form
/ 1T takes, whatever purpose it is to serve,
this one ESSENTIAL feature must exist. Meth
DDS of wearing the more elaborate sort tilt
them up from the head and so give an effect
of height, but the fact that the shape is
almost fat remains. Indeed. so broad is
the effect and so lacking in elevation one
is bit inclined TO wonder how the women
of medium size to appear. In the hats
of this season, as in many designs in gowns
shown heretofore, the entire attention Of
the designers appears to have been concen-
trated upon the tall, very tall girl. For her
there charming things. lovely things.
graceful things galore. but let her shorter
sister be wary else will she give a mush
room effect that is far from being dignitied
or attractive, aside from utter lack of
| smartness.
LOng-haired beavers. beaver cloth. fine
felt. velvet. silk, fur and lace are all used
as foundation materials. Black. white,
black with white, green, green with blue,
gray and castor with touches of brilliant
color, as the nasturtium shades and bright
red. all in vogue. Long plumes. tips.
wings, birds, flowers all are in use. With
such an array set before one only the diff
hculty that comes of embarrassment of
riches need be felt. With care something
suitable, something becoming, can be found
for each individual and for every occasion.
In spite of the one difficulty of size there is
no reason why each and every woman
should not appear at her best The witch
cry found in a hat that serves as q frame
to the face we all know and all have felt.
If the autumn fails to present fascinating
pictures by the score the fault will lie with
the buyers, for, given good taste and good
judgment, there is nothing to prevent that
ideal state wherein each individual appears
at her best.
BIRDS ARE STILL WORN.
The black, black and white, green and
green and blue hats are by all means,
the most effective in any general showing
of those designed for street wear. The
grays and castors are charming, but not
so new and do not stand forth so cOnspicu-
ously. Like the gentle Quakers, of whose
characteristics they seem to partake, they
are quietly unobtrusive, needing to be
sought out rather than exploiting them
selves. The tendency to bird wearing L
regret to state. shows no sign of waning
far yet can be seen. The parrots
that obtruded themselves with the spring
are apparent, and blackbirds are used in
numbers too big to compute. while wings
are seen by the score. One cruel travesty
on aestheticism even shows a huge pleas
ant spread out TO make it's entire crown,
but, happily, have seen only one such,
and venture to hope that the horror win
stop there, although gulls used after the
same manner are common enough, and one
sees all white creatures of a smaller sort
in numbers far too big to allow congratula-
ton. Parrots perched realistically upon the
brim of q turban or sailor may, and APP
pear 10, delight many woman folk, else
why their continued use, but just how
: why l do not understand. Materials. flow
ers, the new silk and feather pompons af-
ford such exquisite variations of color pro-
duce such delightful results one is puzzled
to discover the why of poor dead little
; creatures with their piteous, if mute, APP
, peal Two turbans in green and blue were
shown side by side. On was
| perched a parOquet in the attitude of pull
ing himself up over the brim by means of
his bill The other was OF soft, long haired
beaver CLOTH showing an indistinct plaid.
in which were lines of nasturtium yellow,
and trimmed with soft, lustrouS rib
bon combining the shades. Between the
two was no comparison, to my mind at
least, so far superior was this latter one,
yet the paroquets are still slaughtered and
innumerable women, who hold themselves
; gentle, are to be seen admiring the various
hfe-like poses.
Among the new features is nothing more
! beautiful than the soft, rich beaver cloths
and the lovely novelties that are freely
used as under brims. AS superb a car
riage or reception hat as could be desired
is of pale pink velvet in a pastel shade,
with an underbrim of white astrachan cloth
and two lovely curling white plumes. The
shape is the fiat plateau, but it is raised
( at the left side by a cleverly arranged
bandeau and is to be worn lifted off the
, face. The velvet that makes the crown is
laid in soft narrow folds, the feathers curl
= careSsingly at the left side and droop at
' the back, so taking the place of the scarf
, ends so commonly seen, and are held by an
ornamental jeweled pin. The tender love-
n ly pink with the white is most effective and
most charming. and the whole style of the
T hat marks true elegance. The astrachan
cloth is singularly effective and has the
black velvet and black plumeS is smart
h in the extreme and eminently we'll suited
to the promenade
S PICTURE HATS a FEATURE.
Picture styles make feature of the sea-
: son, but among the many L have seen are
; none lovlier than this one in tender pink
d none more stylish than the same model in
black and white. A really beautiful ex-
ample. however, is of cream white MORE
with an edge of black velvet, and shows
medallions of heavy lace inset in the brim
I
underbrim and white aigrettes curling
round the crown, over the lace scarf whose
! ends fall at the back. Still another is of
long-haired beaver in pale pastel green and
! i draped about the brim with pale green
. / ribbon that is arranged in big soft rosettes
i whose centers are cabuchOns OF white
: feathers Al the underbrm is a drapery of
! soft cream Chantilly with white wings at
/ The left side, while at the back are the in
. / evitable ends. The color scheme Is delight
/ full The feather CabuchOns are quite new
! / and also the hat serves 10 illustrate the
| I tendency TO trim the underbrim Often the
4 / crown Will be quite plain while the entire
: | trimming is arranged on this underbrim
j. I that as the hats worn, in reality makes
{ | the frame and setting for the face. y mos I
effective hat which. by the way is among
| the few OF moderate size Is in plateau style
! with the crown simply full VIevet dra wn
up at the center where there is a single
let cabuchon. while the underbrim is of lat
= further enhanced by charming black tips.
= with lace. y really beautiful hat in turban
shape is one OF black chantilly with let OF
G the highest possible weight arranged in
e loop-Iikc festoons over the brim. TIE lace
a / is eNuuisitely soft and grapes exceedingly
well while IL falls gracefully over the hair
r at the back What the later season will
q bring il il too soon 10 assert. but thus far
n these scarf-hkc ends are almost universal
n on the more elaborate hats.
=. The fur OfteneSt seen Is gray squirrel,
n although mink appears now and again, and
u the combination of lace with fur is a favor
j. tie one. As a rule the entire fur hats are