New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1902-07-27
ON QUAINT CAPE COD.
CHARACTERISTICS OF PROV
INCETOWN NATIVES.
TO ERECT MONUMENT TO MARK FIRST
LANDING PLACE OF PILGRIM
FATHERS.

FATHERS.
Provincetown Mass. July 26 (speciaD.-Province-
town the jumping off place struggles along the
shore of Cape Cod Bay three miles long and a
stones throw wide in most places. collection OF
low-built white houses and stores. There are
two streets-front street and back street-which
run the entire length OF the village Back of them
are sand dunes on which tough grass is sparsely
surinkled Back of the dunes is the Atlantic
Here and there the town laps over for few
hundred yards into some sand valley and in one
of them is the Provincetown cemetery, many of
the inhabitants of which victims of the sea,
whose dull roar plays continuous dirge.
Stretching out in front of the town like
crooked finger is Cape Cod itself, and in between
is the famous Ielf moon harbor in which the
Pilgrim Fathers first found refuge. Its high tide
line is marked by a circle of wrecks, black with
age relics of the days when Provincetown was
whaling port. Beyond Of these hulks, clear
across the narrow sand strip which forms the
cape can be seen the masts of the most recent
wreck-wracA, the natives call tia Boston lum-
Der schooner, which went ashore in a recent
storm
Anyway, you in Provincetown and thankful
for the train ride has been long, tiresome and
sandy. So sandy. in fact, that you VOW you will
never come the cape end again by train. AT
first the ride pleasant enough. the rails run
ming between stunted forests and along the shores
OF the famous Cape Cod ponds, which, by the way
are worth a story their own account. You
rushed past RuZZaidS BAY, SoeS OF winch
have been preempted Dy Grover Cleveland and Joe
Jefferson as a native with a typical, innitable
Cape Cod twang is glad TO tell you At Wellheet
you see the towering derricks with which Mr.. Mar
conf experimenting with wireless telegraphy.
Then comes a stretch with little to be seen but
lighthouses and the accompanying life saving
tions which show how futile the lights really are
in time OF need OF course you are GLAD when the
locomotive whistle blows for the last town the
line-the jumpng-on place.
Vet zC11z- GhO
jumping off, place? 1t really is the jumping on
place. Around crooked sailed the May
flower. and on the sandy beach the Pilgrims first
stretched their legs. Then they went to Plym-
outh and made rock famous
Provincetown SCOTS and laughs Plymouth
Rock. 1t comes after the landing in Cape Cod and
they about to accent the fact by erecting an
elaborate monument. by a strange system Of money
raising. will appear further on.
weather beaten old grandfather, with a trickle
OF tobacco juice running from a of his mouth
10 the end OF his bristy beard, approaches having
sighted" you for another of them summer COM
plants" He is putting in his last years as an
expressman. quite fail from the dignity of the
quarter deck Of of the finest clippers that ever
sailed out past Boston Light. You learn later that
he buy you several times over with the money
he has in the bank.
80 you to rent a house do you?" he saws
In answer TO your question. We'll, 1 declare if
my brothers first wife was only living she'd rent
you her'n and go to Twin in the woodshed Too
Flint, down along Welieet way, and
One can have the whole history Of the old mans
brothers first wifo's family if patience holds out
You stop him. however, by repeating the question:
'Can you find house that is for rent?'
S'pose can; spose 1 can't he says though
don't know ID sure Maybe / can't"
he drives YOU 10 house, retailing family history
in wholesale quantities enter the sitting room
and take a seat bristlv hair sofa. There are
several ship modes in glass cases on the wall
homemade cabinet contains a piece of every nota-
bic wreck since that of the British man-of-war
the long sea voyages which the men of the town
used to make-strange things from strange lands
The entire family-mother. three girls and a baby
Doy-enter and are presented. The expressman
mas cautioned you TO let him do the talking. He
How be you, Manthy?" addressing the widow.
u be pretty smart, thank you
and you, Hettie?'' 10 the eldest girl.
How be you, Matde and Sallie?'
&, We be smart thank you sir" the twins answer
eyes turn to them. and they twist their hands in
their little Bingham aprons.
uncle does not neglect MIN. You hardly listen for
MS answer expecting the usual Pretty smart"
soreiy stubbed great toe W :"
Finally uncle gets down to business and tells
the widow that you want TO rent her house for
yes" you continue hurredly, 81 will pay you
You want TO rent my house. Well. it's as good
a house as a Provincetown husband ever left
wife. He was a fine man; one OF the Barnstable
She is off on a tangent that can't be stopped in
'wiT you rent me your house?' you ask in des-
well, I don't know says the woman. I'm
think about IL though never he'd thought to rent
Cant you decide now? I'm in hurry TO make
NO; can't decide now" she drones I'm think
You go TO the hotel to wait two days while she
is thinking about it. The first thing you see while
waiting for the clerk is the sign: