Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-01-11
STYLES IN MEMS DRESS
SOFT BLACK VICUNA USED FOR
EVENING WEAR.
All Long Overcoats Except the Raglan
Collars Are FavOrites.
From the Haberdasher.

From the Haberdasher.
The favorite suit for evening wear is
made Of the soft black vicuna. The trou-
sers are cut straight and are Of medium
fullness. The outer seam may be finished
with braid. There are many different
styles of braids, but the best is the very
plain black soutache about one-quarter OF
an inch wide. The trousers may be made
with hip, watch and side pockets or with
out any pockets except the watch pocket.
The waistcoat may be plain, single
breasted affair Of the same material as the
coat, or 1t may be Of white material cut
either single or double-breasted The but
tons on the white waistcoat may be Of
pearl, or covered with the same material
of which the waistcoat Is made. These
waistcoats are best with collars The col
larless waistcoat is not suitable for formal
dress The evening coat is made practically
on the old lines. Lapels are cut a trifle
deeper than formerly, and the skirts are
just bit below the back of the knee. The
tails have what are termed shovel ends
that Is, they are rounded off slightly. The
most remarkable innovation in the coat is
in the silk facing. The lapels may either
be faced to the buttonholes or to the edge,
1t is simply matter of taste. The usual
buttonhOle for boutoniere in the left
lapel is still adhered to- Velvet collars,
out of it.
For street wear, or for dining out, the
shoes should be Of patent leather with kid
tops, buttoned. The new dancing pumps
have slightly rounded toes. The pumps
are lined with black ottoman, and at the
instep there is fiat ribbed silk bow about
one and one-half inches WIDE The hat for
wear at the theater Is the opera hat, that
is, the crush style If one Is going to call,
or to show, where the hat must be worn
in the street, or when -promenading, then
the silk hat with the cloth band is best
There is slight distinction, too, in the
gloves to be worn. AT the dance or the
opera or a formal affair like the horse show
the white glace gloves are best, while at
dance or a reception the giants de luxe
which have the silk Isle forchettes or in
sertions on the finger sides are the most
desirable.
OvercOats.
The overcoats for evening dress are quite
numerous. One may wear with perfect pro-
priety any Of the very long coats except
the raglan. The skirted or waistline coats
made Of soft black vicunas are by far the
best for the ordinary man. If one can af-
ford it then the fur-lined coat, with the
heavy black smooth faced vicuna on the
outside may be chosen. The coats are made
with a single-breasted front with small
e
The fur collar is very deep and cut with a
good round curve and the cuffs are also very
deep and of fur. These coats are cut large
and fail well below the calf. They are nee
essarily very expensive, in fact, they are
the aristocrats of coats, if l may be permit
ted to use such term. If lined with seal
skin they cost somewhere about $500; if
they be lined with fine mink they cost
81, 1000 more, and If one wants something
particularly fine then the Russian sable
article which costs mere trife of seven
or eight thousand dollars may be purchased
There are, however. fur-lined coats of
These cost much less than seal, but even
the cheapest fur-lined coats, will, to use
a popular phrase, make $500 look very
small
Collars and Shirts.
In haberdashery there have been prac-
tically no changes. Shirts are made of
linen with perfectly plain bosom showing
two buttonholes in the waistcoat opening
and one at the bottom of the bosom. The
best shirts are open all the way down the
front, and have three-inch slightly round
ed or square-cornered link cuffs, with wide
stitching and the buttonholes about one and
one-half inches from the top. The collars are
Of the poke variety or the straight standing
just tapping style. Pokes are the favorites.
These have wide stitching to match the
cuffs. The tie should be cut straight and
be about one and three-quarter inches wide
| than last seasons and are not tied so tight
| ly. The centerpiece should show very little
creasing. The ties may be made of plain
| lawn. or Of the neater of the fine linens
| which show ribs, neat hair lines, or almost
invisible basket effects. Pearl studs are
| worn in the shirt, or one may wear mother
| cf-pearl buttons. 1t is not improper to
wear small gold studs with a Jewel in the
| center. but the pearls are considered most
| proper. The single stud is no longer con-
| sidered. Gold and jeweled buttons for the
| cuffs are not worn with evening Dress The
| best style is the mother-of-pearl buttons
| with thread in imitation of the sewed- on
| button, or the white enameled buttons. No
watch chain or fob should be worn The
| ring, If any be worn, should be gold siEnet
4 on the little finger of the left hand The
best muller is the plain black English
square twenty-eight by twenty-eight inch.
| es. The handkerchief should be plain white
| linen, with the wearer's monogram In white
in the corner. The half-hose should be OF
| the best black silk.