Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-06-21
COLD DINNERS GOOD
NOT THE CHERRIES MEALS
SOME MEN THINK THEY ARE.
What to Serve on Hot Summer Nights
Cool and Attractive
Dishes.
From the New York Tribune.

From the New York Tribune
Cold dinners by the unthinking are con-
siGered cherries feasts, associated in mas
culine minds with washdays and other ca
lamatous household occasions. Even on the
warmest summer nights people will absorb
soups smoking hot, with meats and vege-
tables beneath silver covers to keep them
from getting chilled in their transit from
the kitchen to the dining room. And there
are many barbarians who. when July brings
| it's wealth of berries, will revel in hot dunn
pings and buildings.
But there is a revival in cold dinners,
and they have received the cachet of socie-
ty. The terrace gardens that the fashion
able 9th avenue restaurants have built
for summer dining are responsible for the
new order of things.
There must be either patent devices for
keeping warm viands served out Of doors, or
else they become half warm. The chefs
and stewards, therefore, have been devising
means dainty and satisfying, consist
ing entirely of cold foods. 1t is one
of the most grateful and healthful of ideas
during the weeks of humid weather, ana
1t admits of the introduction of many dish
es long banshed from the menu of modern
times.
A Charming Innovation.
1t was a daring Frenchman who first
exploited the charms Of the cold dinner in
America. He gave his guests, who were
all clubmen, famed for their epicureanism,
decided sensation. At first they found the
chilly feast unsatisfying. although the night
was warm and the cold dishes refreshing
although a trife unSatiSfying. But as the
scheme unfoded and the cunnngly concoct-
ed menu was developed it admitted
That the idea was charming innovation.
In many homes cold foods are actually
a a a n no
declined of the old-fashioned evening tea"
in most city homes has left no occasion pos
sible for the many desirable cold dishes.
AT parties and suppers they appear and are
always enjoyed. A charming precursor of
the cold dinner is the iced cantaloupe. 1t
may precede the clans and the SOUP or
may be substituted for one or both dishes
CLANS served as a cocktail, in thin chilled
glasses. admirable as a beginning for
the cold dinner
Clam Cocktails.
These cocktails are not at all mysterious
in their method of manufacture In a cold
bowl mix some Clipped ice, the juice of
lemon, tomato catsup, Worcestershire
sauce, horseradish, pepper and salt in pro-
portions that must be judged by taste. Mix
these ingredients by beating with a silver
spoon or fork, and then pour into thin ale
glasses, over small, cold CLAIMS, about ten
to each glass.
ConSomme in cups, with crackers or tiny
sandwiches made with buttered brown
bread and lettuce leaves, may follow. Cold
Consomme, in its liquid jellied form, IS
the best soup for the cold dinner service
The fish course should always be import
ant. Fish is at its best cold. 1t is beauti-
ful to look at, garnished delicatey with
crosses or lettuce. whole salmon is an
imposing dish. Then there are brook trout
with mayonnaise; soft shell crabs with
tartare sauce: lobster or shrimps-any of
the many varieties of sea food make ex-
cellent cod dishes.
Cold joints of beef or lamb are ALWAYS
better when carved at the table. Cold
chicken and ham are excellent as a meat
course. Asparagus, peas, lima beans, near
ly all the vegetables in the list are a deli
cious treat when cold, owing to the novelty
of the service Vnaigrette sauce is. en-
ployed with good effect with green vegeta-
bles. There must be discretion in the use
of sauces with the cold dinner Mayonnaise
French and tartare sauce should appear
only once-in fact it is better not to have
the mayonnaise and tartare served a. the
same course.
Game, Salad and Ice
Game in aspc, boned duck stuffed and
served with jelly, potted meats of various
kinds, are in keeping to precede the salad,
which may be heavy, but which should be
Of the green and simple variety. A dish of
whole tomatoes, peeled and iced is refresh
ing. Cucumbers and tomatoes can both be
Stulleu ana served as a Sdlau. Cream
cheese of any sort that may be in season
In market is best for the cold dinner. The
heavier cheeses are only suitable for cold
weather.
The dessert should be masterpiece in
the way of an ice, served with alluring lit
tie cakes, and perhaps berries, a splendid
pineapple. into the depths of which some
Maraschino has been poured, or, if canta-
loupe has not been served at the beginning
of the dinner it may end it. 1t should be
treated in the same manner as the pineap-
pie and placed on ice, with its interior
dressing applied for hours before the ser
vice.
Black coffee is served hottie one con-
cession on the menu. Wines should be
properly cold, not frozen. Flowers, unless
chosen with extreme care, often make
table look warm, especially unless they
perfectly fresh. No set epergnes or
mirrored mats should be allowed, but a
glass bowl of SWeetpeas or one or two per-
feet roses, with fresh green foliage makes
an attractive center.
+ Dishes should be freely but delicately gar
nished with crosses, parsley and lettuce.
Avoid impressonistic Italian effects, with
beets and hard boiled eggs and other high
y colored things There must be an abund-
ance of ice in view, placed on the viands
directly before sending to the table.