The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1902-10-19

I ,inguish1ble from tn Italian a" tom
which it originated by It's c"rd- 'r
heavy cutliaiuE cord on tho rrnctp@t re-
u.e-. Jr France t-', was a.iet viii "1i'r
hair arI made 60 stand Der u H7d .l
n lta,y it is quite fiat. ~ was IN
. that the first Brussels Eruse and tt.l-
Ci.~ues icca were made.
ABOUT EGrSs FLs LACE.
p,rsss,. lac. hos 5r a~ytr-uely re
Ground with tire 't1ie.' d~ paSt"rn. @i-E'i
with a low and narrow Grrdo1n"t- = ctH-e
~ the nnensss Of the net mesh. the u.~l
advantages then known we given We
simmer and weaver A single ray 90 i-Ht
STRUCK the Iopr1. So that the thr'1t hA-
cate as. the strand % a rob"eb. mt;ni pc
krlt regular ard smooth ihis thread
worth over I,oOp a pound TIE face maze
from that quantity would now cost moe
than fftv times that amount. Her EEn
lace takes a place IN hitt5ry. Brussels lHee
I was largely imported into England. and be-
cause 4 the preference given It over 'he
homemade pieces Parliament passed a, law
IN ies2 forhlddinc &c ana other foreign iaces
10 BE- imported i1to England THIS did not
prevent the merchants from sending aUvoys
70 Brussels. who bought UP All the lace N
the market. u was then marked point
dAngieterre and sold In the mother couu-
try under that name. This has been con
fused with the real point d'Angleterre Or
English point. many persons thinking that
OH lace or that name was first made IN Bel
GUM. Lcug before this. however. the secret
% making fours. fduciful Filings for the
'toil.. had been learned frum the Flemish.
and exquisite iaces. equal 10 the French
ard italian In many ways. were made The
rescuu. o. ground stitch. was always
worked after the "toiIe" and fastened to 70
through the open i01p edges left for that
purpose The leaves and stronger parts %
the figures are often b~oriered or ribbed
with a cCri produced by twisting the bob
bins and are not stuffed Ike the French
ones lr allowed 10 le fat. as in the Italian
faces When brides. or CONNECTING bars.
sr- used instead Of a mesh ground. they
af- sometimes made so prominent and dec
orative "a 20 be given a prominent
nam" ss point ~d'Angleterrs a brides
CLEVER DEVONSHIRE WORKERS.
These bars are called "lagsr by the Itat-
Ian workers. "brides by the French AMI
ties by the English. James Rsdge Of
DeFgr-hire first learned the intricate filing
stitches used iu Flanders. and so success
iiliN piled MS trade that he died a wealthy
man On hts tomb Is the Inscription. Here
heth we body % James Rb,Ig@ OF Uoniton-
IN ye County % Devon~hlrt. bone lace SELL
er. who hath given unto ye poor 81 Hcut-
Ton Farish me henyfte Of 500 forever"
ne DeNonShire workers proved Axtrprhe-
j. apt. and they found ready s,Ia Tor their
pr auctions. Young boys. as well as wom-
en- and girls. followed this trade untH they
We're old enough FOR field labor. Even then.
"H'h work tailed. they would return To he
~ "@RAAA- anu AAFAA EtEfLA ffEGEE TOO I
stin from hard work and exposure for
handling the fine threads. they made bob
f"n lace much Ike that made IN FIande-s
hN the peasants. This was called tSrchou.
or ueSsar lace because T. was used FOR
Ordinary purposes. However. when made
or fine spun flax. IL Is not 10 be despisaa-
and = far more durable than most other Ia
ceS- About the same time the poorer classes
began an imitation Of the Roman lace. The
designs consisted principally OF bands and
IArEa wanrmaHwnrmf Aanrw. T~hH. =
IN Italy and was first made by tracing the
design on fine linen. cutting away the
ground sDaces and buttOnhoHng the edges.
Ire openings then We're filed With the I'm
est needle point or with brides" as in an
thread laces when the spaces are narrow.
W men finished with these buttouholed bars
this IS known as Venetian guipure. although
quite often spoken Of as italian cut work.
Later this lace was made more quickly and
cheaply ty passing "A manufactured net IN
der the stamped linen and buttonhoiing
through both materials. The linen then was
cut from around the design. leaving the
pattern in relief on the net. When used
for church lace or the yestments OF priests
the pattern. always geOlDetricaI. was nued
into squares alternating with others OF
plain cloth
IRISH LACE DUE TO FAMINE
ireland was among the last OF the coun-
tries to be affected by the desire for dne
lace making. Many OF the patterns there
produced are copies OF varieties made in
other countries Until the middle OF the
last century little lace other than the
bone or crochet patterns was made in SUI
hcient quantities to export. and this was
done largely by children. At the time OF
the great famine this Industry grew as by
a miracle. FOR the women were glad TO do
anything 70 get money for bread. The fine
crochet laces were thought TO be more
representative OF Ireland than are their
copies OF needle-point and boobin lace. This
idea was modified in 1884. when two ex-
quisite pieces were designed and executed
IN such . manner that both England and
France found IN Ireland \ rival The
trouble In Ireland Is the same as IN many
other cOuntries-the lace Is generally made
at home over much used and often dis
tor1ed patterns There formeriy was little
organized effort 20 broaden the field and
make the laces marketable by gathering the
workers In one place and experimenting
the choice OF patterns as wen as the work
manship. There are now. however. work
rooms IN many OF the large cities as wall
as In the converts. and Il - probable the
laces soon will receive the commentator
they deserve.