Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-06-21

to Its former universal favor. and has once
more justified my old opinion of 1t as a
collar which is never wholly out OF fashion.
For few months Ii has been behind
cloud, but 1t never looked old-fashioned.
and the simple fact Is that no other collar
Is quite comfortable. Moreover. the wing
collar has this great advantage. that II
needs no clips or other contraptions and
contrivances-au of them more or less hate
ful-to keep the cravat from riding UP.
The double collar owed most of its vogue to
Similar characteristic but the double col
lar has some disadvantages; for one thing.
there are many suits you can't wear ii
with: for another it grips the band of the
cravat very tightly. and sometimes in pull
ing the later around the collar is creased
or perhaps Of little worn at the holes)
pulled of the stud. AS this is a respect
able. family paper L cannot very well de-
scribe the effect upon the wearers Ian
guage Of this accident. Cravats having a
slippery silk band have been specially man.
ufactured for the double collar. to meet
this difficulty. l mean the difficulty of the
band sticking, not the difficulty of printing
what it makes a man say-but the result
Is not very satisfactory. A better remedy
Is found in using a little skill in manipua
ing the cravat which should be pulled
backward and forward few times before
the stud is fastened SO as to make sure of
its being quite loose.
No Sharp Corners.
The double collar of the present day is
the low one. with perpendicular fronts and
the corners rounded of. 1t is. in fact. quite
psychological curiosity to observe how
averse the fashionable mind is just now
from sharp corners of any sort. An inch
and half is quite high enough. All col
lars. indeed. are worn lower than they used
to be. A knot made of light weight silk
and pinched, after 1t has been tied. into
gold safety pin (put through sidewise so
hat fho 90 b. l.
narrow. is a very frequent fad with the
double collar.
Hats.
High hats are higher and look higher
still as the low cloth mourning band, so
long worn by almost every one, Is now be-
ing dropped for the coronation. 1t was.
however, such an improvement to the silk
hat that 1 think it will very likely be re-
vived again, as will also the custom (which
Mr.. Heath doesn't approve of, however, of
covering the brim of the silk hat with plain
cloth on top of the same as below. instead
of having its upper surface to match the
crown or silk. The black and white derby
dixie a frieZe cloth more black than white)
Is the new hat of the moment, however. OF
moderate height and not too much rotun-
dity in the crown, 1t Is a quiet-shaped
bowler enough and the comedy mixture
tone of its rich, long felt makes it highly
presentable headgear for wearing with
Jacket. A derby doesn't go well with
Cambridge suit somehow. though there is
no absolute rule against IL. An Italian
grass, which closely resembles Panama
threatens the Panama Corner" but in
deed. Panama hats are SO difficult to buy
in the wholesale market that am not sur
prised that We have had no end of substi-
tutes for it brought out.
The Italian grass seems satisfa Glory, so
far as l can tell mot being an expert In
hats If it proves entirely 1t is the
first thing / have seen that deserves this
commentator. AS rule, all Panama sub
Stitutes have been vile.