Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-12-09
Table and Kitchen.
Mellifuous Mild Macaroni and Ways
to Cook It., a.

ueveQ that the Germans obtained their
knowledge Of the method Of its manufac-
ture from the Chinese, and from the Ger
mans the Italians learned the secret, and
found the remarkable preparation so much
to their taste they have come to consider
it their one indispensable sfood. We are
told that the appellation 1t bears. al, itaIi-
cized Greek name. implies happiness. Prac-
tically the name 'tmaccheroni'' is derived
from "maccare," to crush.
The three principal varieties are known
as macaroni-Iarge cylinders; spaghetti, the
smaller tube, and vermicelli. the very fine
cord-lke variety. When the paste Is made
into fancy shapes, 1t Is called pasta d Italia,
and these paste, large and small, are pro-
duced In great quantities The tubular
pastes denote the Italian origin of this
class. The Introduction Of macaroni as
common food in America did not meet with
remarkable success until 1t has quite re-
States grows a wheat quite as rich In the
element, l. e., gluten, needed for making
superior grades Of macaroni, as can be pro-
duced from the far-famed italian varieties
of the grain. Truth to tell, for years be-
fore the fact became known, this country
manufactured a very considerable amount
of macaroni for the Italian markets as well
as for home trade. None but the commoner
varieties of these found their way into the
average American household, and, unfor-
tunately, for the home product was too
often rendered unpalatable and useluss by
Indifferent cooking.
Owing to an existing prejudice for sup
posed foreign goods few of the American
pastes were allowed to be sold as such
but sported brilliant and fanciful labels of
supposedly italian and French origin This
was not cause for regret when the labels
covered inferior goods, but too frequently
the poorer grades were branded purely
American and put up for home market
only, the finest being sent over to Europe
in exchange for a still inferior variety made
in Italy and France; thus the careless,
good-natured, unsuspecting American get
ting not only poor valueless product from
both sources, but in most of the imported
kinds, adulterated and unclean goods. Many
of the Italian macaroni are, during the dry
ing process, when the greatest care should
be observed to avoid such danger. exposed
to dust and odors of every kind, and as
they are not always made in the best parts
of the cities and under the best sanitary
conditions. one can readily see that they
might be made agents to carry disease over
an immense territory.
The quality Of -four selected for making
the best macaroni Is of the same sort as
used for making the best bread, and from
a wheat grain rich In gluten From this
high-grade flour is eliminated greater
part Of the starch. and for this reason it
must be higher in price.
Good macaroni cannot be successfully
made from a starchy flour because when
poor in gluten it breaks easily when cook
ing, or else becomes a pasty and cohesive
mass, presenting an unattractive appear
ance.
good macaroni is rather rough. elastic
and hard, never starchy; and in color it is
yellowish gray. Cooking Is the infallible
test Of its quality and freedom from aduI-
teration. When the cooking Is properly
done the tubes come out whole, separate,
free from pastfness, and tender and deli
cately white. rt
A good macaroni will increase in bulk
while cooking.
The Food Value Of Macaroni.
Macaroni is a compare lively rich nitro
genous food, and may also be considered as
heat producer. and an economical food as
well. The latter assertion Gamble proven by
skillful cooking, which will swell 1t to al
most three times It's original bulk
Properly treated, it is. very suitable and
digestible for adults and children having
weak digestion, when 1t lis served alone;
but 1t does not contain the amount Of mus
cle-making food required by the man who
labors physically, II served without cheese
or eggs. But with the addition Of these, 1t
makes very substantial nutrient, and
should not accompany meat dish.
Its nourtshing qualities, its cheapness,
the many and convenient ways in which
1t may be prepared and made to serve as
an agreeable and suitable substitute for
meats should recommend 1t to every Ameri-
can housewife, especially to those who must
look well to expenditures.
American Macaroni.
Admitting that there are certain home
manufacturers Of this product who are
producing an article In no wise superior to
the lowest grade and most uncleanly for
eign goods sent here, we have the satisfac-
ton Of knowing that we have grades Of
American macaroni now on the market, I'M
disguised by foreign labels, that are in
every way equal in quality to the best for
eign makes and have the advantage over
them in the method of drying In the best
American macaroni factories the pastes
are dried in an atmosphere perfectly free
from dust and microbes, while the mildness
or the climate in the macaroni- producing
cities abroad allows the manufacturers to
Dry II In the open air and sunshine CD,
process which may give a whittier paste than
our native kinds. but one that permits easy
access or dust OF the streets and objection
able odors and microbes to the pastes This
Is point that counts with the progressive
American housewife. Imagine these pastes
MADE ana dried, as some actually are, In
Inc atmosphere OF some of our Smoke-b be-
grimed, befogged, windy and microbe-breed-
Ing cities of America; and In such localities
as are In the worst possible sanitary con-
dltlons. With humanity at war with the
disease microbe, it Is well to know the best
points of attack on such an enemy. There
1ore INFORM yourselves as to the source of
your manufactured foods-in fact, all foods
that may In any way be contaminated or
and choose quality alone even if
you must be more frugal In order to obtain
the best.
Cooking Macaroni.
The very best macaroni NAV be spoiled by
the careless manner in which 1t is prepared
for the table. Soaking careless washing or
putting 1t into cold water to cook, or not
allowing sufficient amount Of water to keep
the pipes separate SO they can swell and
come out clean and free from starchy paste;
all these will operate against success in
cooking macaroni. The method Is so simple
and easy, child may successfully accom-
plish the work. Plunge the macaronf into
boiling water-enough to keep the pieces
well separated-have the water sailed, and
keep 1t boiling rapidly until the paste is
tender from twenty to thirty minutes. By
this time the tubes should be- at least double
their size before cooking. Turn the maca-
ROM into colander to drain off the water
and then Immediately plunge aeolander into
pan OF cold water sor let cold water run
over the paste few seconds to preyent its
breaking or sticking together. 1T may then
be dressed for the table infa hundred differ
ent ways, all delicious nourishing, cheap
and for the most part very simple. The
various forms of pastes can be used In
either clear soups, or combination broths,
the particular form Of the nacaroni giving
yvnn III av.I