The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1902-11-13
FALL WORK in THE GARDEN
MUCH CAN DONE IN AUTUMN TO RELIEVE THE PRESS OF
SPRING WORK-WINTER CARE OF BULBS AND
SHRUBs-CARE OF TOOLS, ...-.
EBEN E. RExFORD IN LlPPlNCoTT'S.

EBEN E. RExFOR
The fact that fall affords ample oppor
tunity for good deal of work in the gar
den is not generally recognized by the
amateur gardener. He has the impress
sion that very little can be done TO ad-
vantage at that season. consequently very
little-oftcner nothing at all-iS done. The
natural result of this way Of thinking Is
that our gardens suffer in more ways than
one from neglect which a little study Of
the subject would do away with.
The fact IS. q great deal OF work can
be done to better advantage in the fall
than in the spring. BY giving proper at
tentton We may anticipate, in consider
able degree, much that is generally done
in March and April,-and poorly done, in
many Instances, because of the rush which
then comes on. If all that part Of gar
den work which can be done advantage
Ously In fall IS done then, that which is
left for the spring can be done much more
thoroughly than is usually the case be-
cause Of the absence of the hurry which
nearly always characterizes work in the
garden when two seasons are crowded into
one. Therefore, for the sake Of avoiding
undue haste and the slovenly work likely
to grow out Of 1t, We'll as for the gar
den's sake. aim to do In fall all that can
be done then, and do 1t well. Keep In
mind the fact which every wise gardener
fully understands the force Of, that gar
den which receives attention only during
the spring season is a garden only half
cared for.
Right here let me briefly explain the
philosophy Of winter covering for plants
as it will enable the reader to understand
better the why's and wherefores of much
of the advice given in this article. We do
not protect plants in winter with view to
keeping the frost away from them, as
many suppose. but to keep it in after 1t
has penetrated the ground about the roots
of the plants. In other words, we aim to
prevent the from thaWing out the
frost.
1t Is a fact not very we'll understood as
yet by most amateur gardeners that in
jury to plants in winter results from vio-
lent alterna tons Of heat and cold, rather
than continued cold. Tonight they freeze.
tomorrow the sun shines and extracts
the frost. and al night they freeze again.
The frequent and rapid alienation OF
these conditions brings about q rupture
of cells, which weakens the plant if it
does not ruin it. If comparatively ten
der plant Is frozen and remains in that
condition throughout the winter, and The
frost is extracted gradually from it in
spring, as a general thing no harm will
be done. By covering the roots Of plants
IN fall we keep the sunshine from inter-
tfering with the frost in the soil, and it
remains in control until spring weather
operates upon it and overcomes it by such
slow degrees that there are no abrupt
transitions to do violence to the plant
cells. In this way we prevent the soil from
heaV1ng under the action of frost and
breaking the tender roots Of the plants
Some roots, however, are elastic enough
to be able to adjust themselves to the
strain made upon them, but those of the
bulbs are not of this class, and because OF
their inelasticity they are sure to be
greatly injured If not given the protec-
ton they need.
Hardy herbaceous and perennial plants
can be set out or transplanted to advan-
tagc in fall Old clumps are quite likely
to need division and resetting. In order tc
-.eep them in vigorous health prune away
all weak and diseased roots, and in ne
way can this be done so effectively as by
lifting the entire plant, cutting it apart
and discarding all but the strongest roots
Ii this IS done as soon as the plant ceases
neWly-set plant will have time to make
considerable root-growth in it's new 10.
cation before cold weather puts an end tt
work of this kind. Next season it will
bloom as if nothing had happened to it
but. OF course, 1t will not give as many
flowers as an older plant because there
will be fewer flower stalks; but it will
make a strong growth during the season
and the second year will see it at it's best
After the third crop of flowers from trans
1neHt. BY doing some Of it each year VOL
have two sets Of plants in hand,-one il
Its prime and one getting ready to do IT.
most satisfactory work next year.
Hollyhocks and other perennial plant
which are grown from seed sown durin;
the summer should be transplanted in fal
to the places where they are to bloom
The hollyhock is very hardy but it is quit
susceptible to injury from excessive mos
ture. The rains Of spring and water from
melting snow bring about decay of tn
thick and spongy foliage, which is quit
sure to be communicated to the crown O
the plant. and from there it extends t
the roots. TO prevent this I would advis
covering each plant with something tina
will turn aside water. An inverted f1oWe
pot, an old box. or a pail that has outlive
Its usefulness in the household will answe
the purpose well. After putting whateve
you make use Of as a water protector i
place, throw litter leaves about it. a
adviced for bulbs. This can be remove
as soon as the ground thaws in spring bu
L would not advise uncoverng the plant
until the rainy season is over Leav
them covered until the time comes fc
growth to begin. 1t Is a most excelIen
plan In growing the hollyhock to hav
the ground slope away on all sides fror
the crown Of your plants. This prevent
water from settling about or near tn
plant. No other border plant is 80 ga si1