The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-02-16
THE DELIKATEssENH
German Foods That Are Better Than
They Look.
Pail Mall Gazette.

Pail Mall Gazette.
One of the signs of the times, due to the
increasing cosmopolitanism of the London
er, is the Delikatessenhandlung; it has
come to stay. Not that these toothsome
establishments have not existed before now
in divers parts of the town, tucked away,
however, for the most part in the foreign
quarters, where they were only known TO
and frequented by the natives of other
countries and a few OF the initiated But
now these astute purveyors of gastronomic
dainties are no longer content to hide their
delicacies within the precinct of Soho, or
amid the acknowledgement deniZens who
congregate about the neighborhood of
Mortimer street; they have invaded the
west, even to the utter confusion Of the
"ham-and-b beef shop, that familiar insu-
tuition, till now almost the only place where
cold viands were procurable at a moments
notice. How much the reign of fiat land
may have to do with the arrival of the
caterer OF the ready-cooked We need not
here inquire; enough that he has made pos
sible the little supper" even when the
cook is kept ''off the premises" But the
mission in life of the Delikatessenhandlun
is to cater for the gourmet, to tempt the
jaded appetite, to educate the gross. Its
viands are not such as should be cast in
chunks before Hodge. John Bull himself,
in fact, still jibes, and so, for the matter
of that, does his feminine prototype the
foreign names worry and bewilder them
For instance, Gerducherter Lachs; good
heavens! is ii eatable? Feinster speck NIT
Paprikar; can this be taken without perma-
nent injury to the system? And Mavinierte
Haringe nebst Rollmops. Surely these spell
sudden death! At least, so evidently ar
days ago nervously cycling and smiling at
dainties the very sight of which made our
mouth water, while Fritz, smiling, white
aproned and keen-edged knife in hand, ex-
planned the ingredients and eXtolled the
virtues of these self-same heckereien to the
best of his limited vocabulary.
"Ach-dot is lofely-the finest pig in pep
per-hot-ferry"
B. NJ. (distrustfully)-Pig in pepperl How
very odd-so unnatural! OF course these
things are all very well for foreigners, 1
suppose, but really-oh-whatever are those
queer little things in silver paper?"
Dot ISIS bier kase-beer cheese" trans
lated the obliging youth.
b. M-Beer cheese! What a horrible
ideal There, come along, girls''-to the
long-legged flock behind her. oh mother,
there are some pork pies; at all events
those must be English. | love pork pie. -
So they singled out about the only frankly
indigestible article of food in the whole
shop and went their way radiant at this
find. To those, however, who will con-
descend to listen (and we assure them that
we ourselves are not commercially inter-
ested) we would earnestly commend the
above named sighted bier kase. Carefully
Swathed in silver paper to keep ii moist
and fresh, it wears next to it's creamy skin
yet another little white chemise; peel off
both these and the small beer cheese is re-
vealed to sfght-a tiny parti-colored square,
half white, half yellow. Peppery? Hot?
oh, rather! Taken in conjunction with
pilsener or wiener weissbier, laid between
thin buttered slices of pumpernickel and
white bread, respectively-wel, if that ism t
the grub TO make the beer fly we don t
know what is. Gladly would we dilate on
many another delcacy-probably new to
most of British palates. the haring-
salat, obtainable in various sized jars, but
which is then but disporting itself in mufti
as it were, and should, to be properly ap-
preciated, be met en- grand tenue, tricked
out and decorated with chopped eggs gar
nished in chaSte designs with potatoes and
beet roots and capped at intervals with the
classic rollmops, which interpreted means
boned and curled up anchovy Famous
Colossal! Yet 1t is not in the savOry line
alone that the delikatessenhandlung is
great Although having already overstepped
our space, we would draw a veil' across
the sweets; only one "up''-go and sample
the baumtorte.