The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1902-02-08

II never gets 100 cold TO tnlnk OF new
gowns. and Just now the stores are
showing some exquisitely pretty things.
All of the newest materials are Of the
open effect such canvas Weaves or
hopsacking, and to be strictly correct
should be made up over a silk founda-
ton Of a corresponding color.
Mistrals. wool batistes, crepe de chimes.
mohair brilliantfnes, Sicilian cloth and
challies are among the most popular IA
brics- The mistrals have the popular
open effect and come in the daintiest of
shades, such as modes, greys, seagreen,
reseda; also in the darker colors, as
navies, and golden browns shading down
TO light tan. The mistrals come both
in the solid colors and with a corded
stripe.
An exquisitely pretty mistral worn by
Topeka woman the other day was of a
soft grey, made up over a delicate pink
silk foundation which gave a rosy and
becoming tinge to the gown which 9TH
erwise would have been trying to the
complexion The mistral of the bodice
was cunningly combined with pleated
white chiffon and cream colored ap-
plique; several Of the narrOwest black
velvet cords fastened with the tn1eSt or
cut steel buttons gave the touch of
black which is so noticeable on all of
the new light costumes.
SOmbre hues are to be tabooed the
coming season, and everything is to be
light or bright colors. Brilliantines
crepes and similar material in cream
viii be much worn for whole dresses;
said that they will launder perfectly.
They will be trimmed with tucks or
ecru inserting. or both.
The challies are prettier this season
than ever; they come in Persian pat
trens, and plain colors with satin stripes.
They will be worn for whole gowns
though they are prettier for matinee
jackets or lounging robes
The Spring Hats.
The new hats vary very much in
Il III, IL .F
medium breadth, while others beat the
record in this respect The very widest
brims are almost all turned up at the
side, but less often vertically, as so
many of the winter hats of this kind
are. The tendency to raise the height
of hats by turning them up in this way
and trimming them somewhat higher,
that have notlhed you in previous let
tiers, has received a check The new
models look and are lower.
More diversity exists in the medium
sized hats. and it is in these that the
nilliner is best able to exercise her per-
sonal initiative. Some have almost fiat
brims, and are placed almost horizontal
ly on the head. says Millinery Trade
Review" AS, for instance. a new TRAN
on shape launched by Cartier only bent
slightly down, back and front This is
covered with mousseline de sole ar
ranged in huted pleats from the base of
the crown to the edge of the brim. The
former is quite low and has a folded
band of black velvet at its base. above
which IS a wreath of pink muslin roses
entirely encirclins its edge. Others are
worn tilted slightly up on the left side
but not turned up, some of the trimming
(mostly fiowers) being placed on this
side OF the brim while an Amazon feath-
er, fastened in front. sweeps off to the
right, its tip curling ever and under
meath the edge of the brim midway be
tween the front and the back Others
again tilt forward and backward when
portion of the trimming is placed on the
hair at the back or against the brim in
front Moreover. the Amazon hat turn
ed up on both sides. promises to be a
favorite shape.
A Few New Fads.
Our present fashions show less exas--
gerat1on than ever and are accordingly
more graceful than they have been for
some years Look at the tailor jackets
for instance. They are now gracefully
long at the back and perfectly tight fit
ting, but loose and open to front over
beautiful WaiStcoat. 1t was this waist
coat. indeed, which proclaims the taste
Of the wearer, says the Evening Star 1t
IS made of many different materials and
cOlors- Some are of cloth, while others
are of silk or velvet. and the colors are
black. green or red. Swedish kid waist
coats, however. are preferred by many
Cloth waistcoats are usually trimmed
with braid of the same color and fasten-
ed with large buttons down the front
These are pear sha ped. initiating opals
covered with network of gold fiigree
Under this waistcoat is a lace cherni-
settle or a lace fichu draDed round the
throat, where the waistcoat is slightly
open.
All coats. jackets and boleros have
now nat collar at the neck. whether
IL be of silk, velvet or fur. If the coat
Jacket or bolero be of fur. the collar is
OF a different fur. For instance. a cara
cal or astrakhan coat or Jacket NAV
have an ermine collar revers and cuffs
The muf is usually made to match. with
frills of lace at the openings and a
bunch OF flowers one side
Elderly Women Wear White.
There is considera BILE criticism in
French circles over the fact that at a
recent wedding not only the bride bur
the mother Of the bride was attired in a
white gown, says the Afinneap polls Jour
nal lIhe gown in question was to be
sure, heaVy white guipure trimmed
with bands of ermine. a costume GER
tainly sufficiently rich and elaborate to
suit woman only a little over 40 IT
Is. however a noticeable fact that a
large number Of women past their youth