davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1902-07-06
HOW TO WEAR p VEIL.

considerably lower than the rest. Tire next
thing IS to catch the middle OF the veil IN
both hands and run the hand lightly up
toward the brlm Of the hat. gathering up
the chiffon into soft. natural folds and
fastening them Just above the 5rim.
When al this IS done and the face has
been properly softencd and Swallowed by 4
Dr. OF the veil here. or 'i-ht-ual AMI eN-
posed by a lift 81 the chiffon there. AMI al
ways the hair has been carefully co=sil-
cred. then one Is ready 20 take care ~ the
ends. The top and bottom corner Of one
side OF the veil should ts taken. laid
closely together anLp.an-I on the rim c'9-a
10 the back Of the crown. The two corners
of the other side are then raised and pinned
upon the TIVE already in place. and never
trust enc Pin to co the work OF all four
corners
hat Is the only correct way 20 dr7pa 2
vel on a walking hat. And that Is the
only secure way. For wee To ire woman
who sets her hat on hsr head. ai.IIy catches
her veil here and there 20 the hrim with a
pin or two and Is waftel oway b. 4 brisk
wi=d- The way she will look when she
enters n car IS a warning in wells indeed.
While a floating veil OF chiffon IS not ar-
propriate Tor a picture hat. OF course a thin
vel IS always possible II one wishes 20
keep her hair from being blown - Iittle
veil OF Illusion Or crepe. strangely Enough.
Is the veil for real usefulness. while the
more hardy chiffon affairs are simply for
appearances sake. So a tuIie vel Is always
possible with n picture hat. excepting IN
the eyeninr. IL should he worn as near
TO the edge q the hats brim a. possible.
and the ends at the back. tied and pinned.
should be concealed beneath the loops OF
lace or ribbon on the hat
The arrangement OF the mourning ven Is
a nice mater. for besides choosing the ar
rangement which shall be most becoming
one must keep also in mind that the veil is
10 Be drap@d so ar to be as inco1sp'cuOus as
possible. The veil should follow the lines
OF the hat closely and this. since the hat Is
usually snail. Is very easy. \ veil o: Julle
or thin lace may be worn over the face %
is not usual TO ccnfne a mourning veil by
more thar one pin. the tiea being that by
The removal OF this single pin the veil msy
be easily dropped over the face
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1902-07-06
Same Pleating May Be
ESed Below q Yoke.

The same pleating Is used In the bodice
below the yoke Of costly lace. the pleats OK
panding toward the bust. and sianti1s
narrowly downward. giving n slender tE-
pering appearance to the waist.
Among beach costumes. the new vine
green and rich Husuenot brown shades
share honor with the. Old standard marine
blue dyes. These colors. with cream and
gray -mohair. and many styles in duck. HoI-
lard. and the fancy piques so popular this
xeaF impart great variety 20 the list Of
seTyiceable summer materials and suitable
coiors. Every SORT OF coat and fancy Jacket
is 20 be seen: the skirts are perfect in out
line. but not deliberately finished; but fancy
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1902-07-06
TIicoIored Embroidery
Silks TO Check Satin.

A Pretty way Of finishing the white satin
rpyers and collar c. a coat Of satin bro
CAGE IS to use tTicsIored embroidery
silks TO check the satin. the diamond
spaces thus obtained being filled in with
black French knots.
! beautiful French gown IS composed Of
pale blue crepe de Chine, with a bolero
Of Milan point lace across the front with
black velvet ribbon. There IS a lace Shout
der drapery below q yoke OF embroidered
mcusseiine de sole. The Joining OF the skirt
and circular founce & covered with a broad
band OF Milan applique
The dropping undsrsleeve. n revival OF
old-time f5shion, IS = striking feature OF the
sumutekelceve. and it IS formed variousiy
Of ch<Sn, lace. net. wouSse!ine de sole.
trimmed with lace app!igues. sheer batiste
d3intiIy tucked and striped round with mar
row insertion.
Indie six null is greatly used. and a thin
soft s-emitransparent liberty silk as well.
1t does not matter what the delicate fab
ric Of the gown may be. whether of light
wool or muslin. or Of any grade OF thinness
or thickness between the two. the under
sleeve is in order fer jackets, tea-gowns,
and even night dresses If one likes.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1902-07-06
suitable Tor small
On Fuulard Gown.

For the small bolero on dressy gowns Of
f0ulard or other summer fabric. it IS es-
Tedally pretty and effective. as It can
match the blouse bodice beneath. made OF
fine lawn. chiffon or LACE. The upper sleeve
should be in one with the jacket, whi-h
corresponds with the blouse The mJ5ar-
aJaiy fun bishop sleeve gathered 20 the
wrist into a decorated band finishes May
Of the ualined blouses Of sheer batiste or
INDIA null worn oFer q tinted silk low
cut bodice made separate from The outer
waist. The closely fitted sleeve Of lace
or satin brocade reaching only about SIX
or seven inches Down from the shSaid--
scara. with 4 long. full undersleeye attach
uaunt that extends considerably below the
elbow. has N especially quaint appear
arcr.
= pretty feature OF summer gowns Is he
use Of fagUt or cross stitching. joining sk.r;
cores or groups % vertical tucling down
to the nounce. which IS often attached n
the same manner. This sort OF skirt has 4
very simple effect, bU: Il embodies a con-
siderable amount OF time ami work. The
sun-pleated skirt Trappcars. made Of va
rioUs beautiful nets, grenadines. and Other
Transparent textiles. but from the knee
down Its former moderate Care Is greatly
increased. and sometimes 81 fails about 4
deeply fouuced underskiTt that is also sur
-T--aaE
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1902-07-06

~ IL. tho general effect OF many an
exceedingly pretty summer toilet
would not be quite lost. as II is safe 10 say
many VIII be-
For Of all the wells hung arouni walking
hats ard big piUmy. drOopy hats. and hats
zig aFc l.tir. ONLY a very small proportion
are EraroI 20 90 justice 20 the prettiness
81 the face or the hUR OF the hair te-eaih
ths hst.
Two preliminary Jules are 10 be OBJ
served:
Firzt-A hat must never he worn with the
Veil cii1ri-r 10 Il as 70 vas pinned on when
worn previously. When this Is done the e.
fec1 is N-vgr good. The whole Joy ~ a ven
IS in ito chic freshness OF folds, ana these
PRE- lost T. the hat Is worn a second time
without reG-apinE the veil.
Sscond-The hat mus Re pinned on Sc
cUT=-r before che veil Is taken UP at all.
ard on 10 account must the hat pins lie
depend . upon O. keep the Veil in place
The fashion OF ARRANGING the veil natuTal-
l. Ca7-rls upon the shape Of the hat AMI
Tho face beneath IL. hut whatever the nat
and whatever the face. a few cardinal prla-
Cipics are the same and OF these the ore
which is most important Is the one most
often violated. That IS. a veil should have
no ends
Most OF the lcose wells one sees have ends
hat fan 20 the shoulders OF ut auy rate over
the hair. And, moreover, many OF these
ends are Undermined
To consider fist the process Of fastening a
veil TO a walking hat: II should begin with
piLning the middle Of the top edge or the
veil to the brim OF the hat IN front IL the
! hat be black. Of course black pins must he
used without regard 10 the color OF the
veil II a pin Is 20 be visible IL IL always
better 10 have IL a black one than a white
ore. unless IL a very Hight toilet Indeed On
either side. a little 20 the front. the veil
1 should be pinned again at the edge Of the
brim. and once more. a little toward the
back. II should be caught again on either
side Tbs Will make six pins in all fasten-
ing the veil before the ends are treated al
all This method obviously varies material
| l. from the usual procedure
7 After the six pins are In place the ven
viii hang straight about the face. the ends
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1902-07-06

As Is i= ua same With ;ho blouse If The
-ra. r.-E.- '.. more -rag .AtuTla. as'
tH. ug.tar.a-- Slip 30 -a.-- ;gns a. 'f-
tfs.- worked With wa.r embroidery. quite
.G l-E simple. l-t dear CD the tru" .."-
a--a a- beyond i-a -aan- q .ana-irE i'm
lf.-..-. and. though devoid u ali s.a".-
I- obvious ID rae initiated as 'na latest
i-r-. T-e au#lg %, wai.a SIS patent %
tE-. Tie eject OF ~aa-.l- l'Hus'z such
- --ese IS .aE.L' Tl1 same .e I'm iaa casa
or l.er dos -=-.l- things unseen have q
most Uplifting effect o. She outer woman.
imb-irE her with "a siren -thca.lS sense e..
Dee rz '.aiI right all through
so change N trc a~rua. styles IS likely
before ine early autumn I1|; n present
W. are busy ia wearing what we have and
ordering afr-sh what We have not. 10 com
rI.-aJe matters hy new fashions. A5Ea-
I-m L.uealu's a-yl-e never 10 swap
horses while crossing a stream" IS sCU-d
10 the core. activity IN ~dreSsInakiEE Cir-
css is extreme. ugt i is well TO rest con-
tent with tie modes ;nat be rather than 10
ssel, for nau ones. perhaps rot so pretty.
during the rush and hustle OF the moment
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1902-07-06

the cmhoGimcnts Of feminine grace and
Irsusy. which tho nuychsts Of a past Gay
were always careful 70 dopict IN WhI,e
Muslin ngescEt Gay hsrolncs figure chlshS
81 tweels AMI sensible h"o's). Then the
lanGE work - those m!zu'c lingerie tae-s.
lace vsi1.urs and Insertions. aIp!lIne- am
.-afras..-r.-r-, designed m~-t surely To-
ra~ti.ate The sve. especially tHo feminine
oye. for what 20 tna mai" mind means 'i."
i~I5ei'v- lastly acquired rHi'h1vt ars iHSs''
son know. .4yn-- O., bier the touch OF the
rna-.sr hand. beyond the ken ~ the little
dr"-s .aa.r.-. inmate U~--l-.uHn. and thor
(. -r. .-.ulrar.a orfv at great price, SJG---
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1902-07-06
FASHION NOTES.

In gloves for summer wear there are some
OF white Elace Kid which VIII wash. These
cost more than other wash cloves. hut they
are satisfactory. and that is sufficient Tea-
son for their popularity.
SIX gloves with woven lace eo7s are 70 be
TcrR with thin gowns this summer As well
rs mitts. AMI they are both Ing enough 70
meet the elbow sleeves. EiaCk. white and
gray are the fashionable colcrs.
The skirts that have the long train eject
are in many cases made v;th the center Il
the back in n broad box plat. TEi- piait is
crossed and recrossed BY narrow fri!linss o.
lace, mousseline or the material itself.
Embroidered handkerchIrfs are OF such
dainty and beautiful design that they are in
requisitjon for many purposes besides those
for which they were originally intended
They are used as trimmings on many gar
ments for children and they make a delight
full finish for fne night robes
Among the simplest OF dust coats are
those mad perfectly straight and plain.
buttoning up TO the throat. and with plain
coat sleeves and a high. close turnover col
lar. One Ct these in a dark red has a smart
air given Il by the dark pearl buttons which
are fastened with straight loops Of silk set
along the edge OF the coat IN the place CT
buttonhoies.
OF the novelties in shirt waists. one e the
broad cross plat over the shoulders TIE
yoke in th2 hack Is seen On very few
waists. though II is by no means uncommon
on the front The very plain shirt waist
having two broad box plaits over the Shout
ders. textending to the waist hack and front.
and with bishcu sleeves ending IN a snug
cun. e the generally accepted model
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1902-07-06
Short Gowns Made Up
In Wash Materials.

The plain black silk coat is no. So smart
this year as is the one made in p0Hgee, hut
all the same IL IS q mistake 10 say that the
plain black ones arc out OF fashion. for
never have they been more worn. but the
pOngee ones are newer. and for the moment
more in demand. However, there is no MS
take in investing in either one or the other
in these days, when a long coat "a 50 neces-
Bary to comfort. 1t is cOntended 10y very
practical individuals that these long coats
aSe the most economical fashion that has
prevailed for a long time, for Il IS pos
sfble to wear underneath them a very smart
and a very light gown, which otherwise
would neceSsitate the wearer taking a cab
n she DID not care 10 be conspicuous in the
ordinary public conveyance.
Nothing smarter than the present style OF
short gowns has been seen for a long time,
and from appearances the fashion has come
TO stay. These short gowns are made up in
all wash materials that have any weight 10
them, such as pique. duck, mohsir, but the
smartest Of all are the pongee, linens, mo-
hairs and light weight Cheviots. and never
before this year have there been So many
OF these lightweight cheviots seen. An ex-
ceedingiy smart costume OF Light gray IS
made with q niDe-gored skirt, each seam
finished with a bias band OF the material;
the waist or the coat. for it IS in reality a
fitted coat, IS exceedingly plain, Ike a rid
ing habit, only not SO long as the present
style of riding habit, with narrow Iapeis
faced with white moire or even with the
material Itself. Nothing palmer or simpler
could be imagined, and II is q return TO the
practical and useful tailor-made styles Of z
few years ago.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1902-07-06
Pongee Coats Faced With
Linen Embroidery.

Pongee coats seem TO be absolutely neces-
saTy for the comfort and welfare Of the
sm~artly-sowned woman this season. Il IL
not necessary TO invest in one Of the very
expensive Cnes in OrCer 10 have a salts
factory garment. but Il must be confessed
that the expensive ones are exceedingly
smart and attractive. While they are dp-
parently loose and shapeless, they are III
reality well cut, shaped ana are half Mt
ting, always close fitting around the Shout
der; the sleeves are large. but not exag-
Gerately SO. and the garment IS not elaJOr-
ately trimmed. The fronts, faced with
green surah with white polka dots or with
linen embroidery IN the grapevine pattern.
are too popular 10 be very exclusive. and
the plain facing is FATHER the s-ua-test vi
any or the plain facing covered with tlc
natural colOIed nlet lace
These coats are made in the dark-coIUreG
pongee as well as in the natural color, but
are smartest in the latter. They clean and
even wash, il made without q lining and
with not too much pleat!ng or shirring. the
latter IS a new fad, which IS seen only on
some Of the more eccentric ones.
These garments are made long enough 20
cover the entire gown, or Of medium length.
reachipg about 20 the knees. They AZ. u
splendid protection from dust, have quite u
little warmth in them II they are lined with
surah, and yet so light that it l. possible
TO wear them on a warm day.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1902-07-06
Unlined Skirt Made to Wear
With Silk PeifipOat

The skirt is unIned, but made to wear
with . fitted silk petticoat; the jacket is
lined with t~afeta, and Is, CT course, tO9
warm for midsummer, excepting on a cool
day Gray is more fashionable than tan in
this style Of gown, and 4 paler shade OF
gray than is generally used in the cloth.
The buttons are the plain gold ones. ana
there is nothing about Inc gown in any way
f~ancifui.
a plain but graceful parasol IS Of soft
pink taGsta. ornar2entcd with three rows
OF opeH<yOrk and three rows Of graduated
spots OF black velvet. The handle Is OF
white lacquer and orEsmegted with crystal
aTtisticaliy set.
Also ! saw one in the pUrest L5uls XIV
style, made OF soft. underground Jsfeta
printed with exquisite P~ompadour designs.
edged with a Tom Thumb rave!ed fringe 90
match, giving Il an adorable oid-world
Samq. The stick has a crystal knob inlaid
with g~ariands in chased gold.
Umbrella sticks IN these days are veritable
WORKS OF art. and q visit to tie jcUelers'
shops VIII show the pains taken BY artists
10 produce nov and persona! creations. y
sunshads handle IS now 4 very common
present. and # has this important advan-
tags, that It can be used for the purpose
seyeral times without prejudice 10 SIS valre.
A ~
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1902-07-06
Bows and Roscttcs Of


This is really the copy Of the evening
Irocks 50 much worn by the Southern E'-.s
a. the time Of the CivL War. and which
are Tow fashionable IN the lowered and
plain muslils as well.
Bows and ~rosettes Of plain satin or pau
de sole ribbon ar- Fashionable or the muslin
1rocks. and f. is remarkable 10 see EgN-
many different styles there are. One Of The
newest fais ia a rOs=ttc made Of satin nib
bon an inch wide. with every end Of The
ribbon finished with a silk tassel Of the
same shade. There are any number OF th=Se
ends and Of varied length, 50 that there
are IN consequences any number OF taSssIs.
Tire belt worn with this rosette Che roset-e
IS placed near the left shoulder IS Of much
wider ribbon, the same shade. tied in a
soft knot and with two long ends OF G.I-r-
ent lengths. This IS quite an economical
fashion. for By changing the ribbon the
gown looks entirely different. And yet an
other change can be made by having q col
oTed underskirt and lOw-cut "aderwaIst,
and then the ribbons 20 match the lining.
This lining locks quite as well II made OF
lawn, and then the expense is much less
than II the silk were used.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1902-07-06
All Kinds OF Substances Are
Turned Into Account.

an kinds OF talents rave an opportunity
of displaying themselves, aud ali kinds OF
Substances are turned to acc5uat. wood,
ivory, metals. tortoise shell. easmeis, porce-
lair, lacquer precious stones and crystal.
Painters. sculrtors and engTaye-s MAJ Gre
ate little masterpieces which IN the distant
future viii be considered worthy OF a place
in the glass cases of'an exhibition OF retro
spectfye art and be eagerly sought after by
collector. as the snIn boxes. powder boxes
and gBeetmeat boxes OF our g~Teat-graat-
G~rancnoshers are to-day,
every one Is Ezysnz that never has dress
been 70 pretty nor - varied as now. And
for once eyer ~ Is right.
The mcusGelfaes and n~uzijns-tHo differ
ant things. mind 900, tie former silky and
~dssfebffuiiy patterned with nowery sprays,
the iztteT spraTed also, but, 10 my way Of
fsfaksBg, pFsttiest plain or besstihg enly a
Big or Htae sbst, IS tds ease msy bs-aFs
gsd64Rst Of aBsfH4aess, sRa tasse her5ihss.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1902-07-06

Az F all the women who wear iittie
floating. dipping chiffon wells on
their hats put the wells on correct
~ ". thu Eaneral effect OF many an
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1902-12-07

some delicate Nectarine dealing out
slang" said Mr.. Gentleman Friend.
Now in England, where / spent Two
Weeks once, the Ladies never use
Slang. They simply say that a Thing
is either Perfectly Charming or Most
Extraordinary and let it go at that.
They may be Short on Vocabulary, but
they are Long on Responsibility. Be
sides, I was reading in a Magazine the
other Day that Slang Is Vulgar, and
that no one should take up with a
Slang Word until Long Usage has
given 1t the right to butt into the Lex
icon"
Also, this Girl with the Absorbent
Mind would clip out Hints to the Young
and Confidential Chats. warning the
Just-Outs against taking Presents from
Strangers and putting them next TO
Rules of Conddct that would be sure
to please and fascinate Proper Young
Men.
It seemed strange at Times that these
Head Coaches who knew just how
to jolly up any Man, were not out
spending some Millionaire's Money in
stead Of writing Pieces for the Paper.
All the Articles on the Woman's
Page and all the Straight-laced Men
that she met came down Hard on the
Female who is trying to be a Real Bo-
hemian. She learned from a dozen diff
ferent Sources that Men have no earth
ly Use for the Upper who tries to do
a Mile in less than Two and kites
around in a Hack without a Chaperon
and carries her own Cigarettes
And she heard nothing but Express
sions of Horror concerning the Woman
who Drinks. Her Male Acquaintance
often brought up the Painful Subject.
They said it was all right for a Man
to move up to a High Ball once in a
While and a Cocktail before Dinner
didn't do any Harm until after the
Seventh or Eighth. But it did look
Tough to see Mere Children of about
% Years of Age going after the Dry
Manhattans.
After sounding the Men on the Liq-
uor Question the lon g-headed Girl made
a solemn Resolve that she would never
hit up anything stronger than Cherry
Sundae.
When she had her Note Book full of
useful Directions, she found a Chance
to try out her System. She was in
Vited to a Swell Dinner Party at which
all the Nice Men i'm Town were to be
rounded up. She put on a simple
White Gown and wore a Rose in her
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1902-12-07

yard, with weigher, horse, cart, driver
and a load of coal.
Another up-to-date child's device is
the Auto Marble Came" in which
wooden automobiles figure. Still an
other new thing is a popcorn wagon,
an exact miniature of the wagons fire.
quently seen in residential sections of
large cities.
But the toy that will capture the
boy is a top that will spin in his
pocket, in his hand, on its ends, on its
side, on a PEDESTAL; that will walk a
wire or thread, jump off its side and
spin on still and defy gravitation. This
top is really a top within a top. The
outer top merely acts as a casing for
the inner top, or fly wheel, which, when
set in motion by pulling off a string
wound once around the spindle, causes
the top to do all sorts of tricks.
An observatory tower, THE Coney
Island Dolls" patterned after knock
the babies-down" of amusement re-
sorts. and a pistol that shoots paper
darts, thereby avoiding broken mir
rors and bric-a-brac, about complete
the list of children's novelties.
The handiest novelty is a combina-
ton tool that can be used as a stove
cover litter, a hot pail litter, hot pot
Upper, pipe tongs pliers staple pull
Ter. nut crackers, hog ringers, and
what not.
The most ambitious thing that the
fakirs will handle is a talking ma
chine, rendered somewhat out OF date
by more recent inventions. but for
which they hope to realize $3.50
Guy I. Niskniskki.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1902-12-07
too Extrava CANT.

lOO IAlIdNd giant.
That's just why so many of us shy
at the Matrimonial Jump" he conhded
to her. There was a time when the
Man who got SIS per month and had
about $500 planted could take a Chance
at the Game. But now that measley
Allowance wouldn't keep a High-Step-
per supplied with Violets. The up-to-
GATE Maudine isn't happy unless she
has a Gray Squirrel Coat, an Auto-Car
81, 900 worth of Twinklers and a four
teen-room Apartment. That's why
these Society Shawl Holders keep on
making Love right and left but never
come down to Cases.
This was valuable Tip, so the crafty
Maiden put it down in her little Note
Book that she who would make Hit
must convince the Men that her Tastes
were simple and inexpensive.
Another one gave her a learned Talk
on the Frivolfty and Two-by- Fourness
of the typical Seraphine.
you cannot expect a Man to hand
over his serious Affections to one of
these Feather Heads" he said. as he
gazed thoughtfully at the Floor. "Wo-
man should be Mans Intellectual Help
meet. Now and then a Man may have
Passing Fancy for a Lizzie who talks
Piftle and gets an Attack of the Gig
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1902-12-07

Once upon a Time there was a long
headed Girl who used TO sit in her own
Room on Rainy Afternoons and evolve
Theories.
Her principal Ambition in Life was
to stand Ace High with all the Nice
Men of her Set. She hoped in the
course of Time to tease one away from
the Drove and gallop him into the Cor
raj.
Now this Girl was so Foxy that at
times she got in front of herself and
blocked off her own Plays.
Her Scheme for getting all Of the
Real Boys intoxicated with Love for
her was to engage them in Converse
ton and find out what kind of Girl
they liked. Then her Play was to be
that Kind.
She had no Difficulty whatever in
inducing her Men Friends to talk about
the Opposite Sex. They were all keyed
up on the Subject and full of Informa-
ton.
Just as a Feeler one Evening, she
asked an eligible Charley if he didn t
think that the Woman of To-day was