The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1902-12-14
HOW SHE HOLDS UP HER SKIRT.
Two Proper Ways, and Here They
Are Described.


OF the two really good styles of hold
ing up the skirt at present, says the
New York Sun, one is to grasp the
folds with the right hand at the back,
but little to the left, and then to
pull them round to the right hip and
raise them a little, so that the edge
of the skirt clears the ground all
around.
The other way, which has the adj
vantage of not outlining the figure
quite so much, is to fold a little hori-
zontal pleat in the skirt at the left
side and lay It up over the belt, draw
ing II "A little toward the back, by
which means 1t is quite raised from
the ground at the left side and back
and only needs to be held UP bit at
the right. This is by far the easier
way for the arm, also.
The girl who has labored to acquire
the art of getting her skirt into lit
tie wabbling bunch directly in front OF
her knees, thus drawing II tight
around her back, is considered passe
for her pains. She has altogether the
wrong idea.
Woman, as a necessary adjunct to
| each quickly changing fashion in
| skirts has had to discover for herself
and learn to practice the smartest or
most convenient way of keeping her
| garments from contact with the
ground. Once in a while she has re-
belled outright and has dragged vel
vet and silk, muslin and lace. through
dust and nire with a right royal dis
regard for the consequences.
1t Is difficult to tell from the illumi-
mated manuscript (Which with the eff
figies were almost the only source of
information as to early costume)
lit.
raised from the ground at all or not
but at that date the rage for lengthen-
ing every part of the dress passed all
bounds with both men and women. The
womens sleeves and wells were so long
that they had to be tied in knots, ana
the skirts of the robes lay in great rolls
on the ground.
The cynical illumination made a pic
ture OF the devil In female garments
with the skirts as well as the sleeves
knotted up.
The authors OF the "Roman de la
Rose" describe the dress of the late
thirteenth and early fourteenth cen
turtles, and are particularly severe on
the length of the train Of the surcoat,
supertunic or cylas, advising the
ladies, If their legs are not handsome
or their feet small, to wear long robes
trailing on the pavement but II they
have pretty feet to raise the robe as
IL for air and convenience that all who
pass may see and admire them.
The exterior garment was sometimes
so long as to be gathered up and car
ried over the arm, and a. tract was
written by a divine at that time en-
titled Contra Caudas Dominarum"
against the Tails of the LADIES'.
The high born dame, her golden hair
gathered in gold fret or caul of net
work surrnounted. by coronet, dell
cately held UP the front of her rich
state robe, spendidly embroidered all
over with the most fanciful devices.
A Norman knight some hundred
years later made a great many unkind
remarks about the prevailing fashions
for the benefit of his daughters. He
was particularly harsh on the Gus
tom Of putting fur on the bottom Of
their skirts which fell about their heels
and are daubed with the mire."
But these satirical illusions seem to
have had their usual effect when flung
at lovely woman. She continued 20
trail her long robes wherever she
willed and to look charming in them
until fashion decreed that there should
be no more trains to drag. which APP
pears to have been In the early part
of the sixteenth century. The wheel
fardngIe introduced with Queen Eliz-
abeth and the hoop Of various sizes
and shapes In the eighteenth century
made holding up the skirts unneces-
sary or impossible.
In Charles Ills time the court ladies'
allowed their voluminous skirts to drag
except I'm the dance. when they were
frankly raised above the garter. The
merchants tidy and thrifty wives OF
the same period pinned or gathered UP
their gowns from the muddy streets
with the pleasant effect of showing
their lace petticoats and smart shoes
and stockings.
In the eighteenth century hoopskirt
days the lowered skirts were some
times dra wn up all around through the
pocket holes and with a red capuchin
above and a gay petticoat and pair OF
slim feet I'm black buckled shoes be-
low made a very bewitching picture.
In the latter part OF tbs eighteenth
century fashions rushed from yard long
waists and hoped petticOats 20 very
high waists and very long slim skirts.
According 10 the Times. ln 1896, the
measurement OF a petticoat for n mid
diinR-sized woman was five feet and
one inch. and IL also says that among
prudent fathers the fayorits toast was
Tho present fashion " our wives and
daughters, VIZ. No Waste" These
ellnRinB skirts left very Httie o. the
fofm b. the Imagination, bat a. n that
lille were too much the fashion ia
holding them ~ WAS 20 draw them a.
tightly nE possible around she figure
and raise them ~ high ~ the knee.
Ia the uineiefnfh century there wac