The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-07-12
MIDSUMMER FASHIONS
At EASTERN RESORTS ARE SEEN
COSTLY CORONATION GOWNS.
Economy Is Not the Order of tho Day,
but Some simple Costumes Arc
Seeu-Bird, on Hats.

! Correspondence Of the Indianapolis Journal
! NEW YORK. July 1O-Midsummer is apt
/ TO bring little that is new in the world Of
4 dress Women of the fashionable world are
| supplied and are enjoying the mountains.
! the seashore and travel. The world of de-
/ signers and dressmakers. also. is travelling
and searching far and wide for novelties
with which to greet satiated tastes when
! once more a change OF seasons shall bring
about the demand. From our side Of the
great sea hundreds of such seekers are set
ting sail for Paris London, Vienna. From
| those great centers others are being sent
10 the Orient and to all the great picture
! galleries of the world in order that some
! fresh inspira ton may be found. some hint
| or suggestion CLEANED. Luxury and eX-
| travagance grow apace. In common with
other forms of indulgence they grow In
proportion as they are fed, and the feeding
seems ever to become more generous and
| extended. What the autumn will bring
forth is vet unknown. The next devel-
opment of fashion Will remain q sealed
book Tor some weeks to come at least. but
in the costumes Of the hour. in the dainty
evening gowns and wraps the smart morn
| ing and visiting toilettes and the elegant
! travelling outfits. are TO be found ample
material for immediate contemplation.
The failure of the coronation fetes sent
numberless women home with trunks laden
with costly gowns and superb wraps. AS a
result the watering places are even more
resplendent than common. Summer din
ners and dances, outdoor teas and the like
are attended with even more fine dressing
than is the rule.
Cnquestionably the predominance of
white is the first feature TO attract the
attention. Following that one is struck
with the exquisite colorings and the some
what overlavish use OF trimming. If We do
not paint the lily i'm these days we do what
is equivalent. and not infrequentIy spoil a
good thing as a result. Not few of these
gowns which failed to see the splendor of
EnglandS court are more remarkable than
truly beautiful, but while this is true much
genuine beauty is TO be found. and hints
to what is good style to be CLEANED by
the score
COATS AND GOWNS TO MATCH.
No material has the favor shown wolfe
for visiting, driving and all afternoon func-
tons One of the latest whims is the
of coats made to harmonic with the
tune, while not OF the same material
the gown As rule. silk. and preferably
taffeta, is the fabric chosen. and il matches
I'm color and finish the gown with which
it is to be worn. One seen quite recently
is of delicious shade Of fawn and is of
the same silk that used to trim the gown
of wolfe that is of the same shade. The
coat is in three-quarter length with fitted
| back and half-titted rounded fronts which
| open TO reveal the exquisite bodice worn
beneath. The sleeves are in ample bishop
style with Follower cuffs of silk overlaid
with Irish lace. below which fall plisse frilS
of fawn-colored chiffon Another is in soft
dove gray and cut en- traine, so completely
covering the gown. The coat proper is cut
in panels edged with Irish lace and 70 their
lower edge is attached a deep plisse fiounce
Of mousseline. At the neck double col
lars, the uppermost of lace. and down
the fronts are jabots of lace over NOUS
seline, that amply full and handsome.
The sleeves are in bell shape split at the
back. and finished with frils like those
that form the jabots. In both instances
the Innings are Of the same shade as the
coats and the entire costume so retains
its prevailing note. Nothing more elegant
well could be imagined. The color scheme
in both is exquisite and in the best
of taste and the wraps give just the final
touch while they serve to protect the still
more dainty gowns which they conceal
Never have we had any material sus-
ceptible of finer methods of treatment than
! the wolfe, and our artistic designers have
Tucks and plaits. bias, the favorite
methods of treatment, suit it to perfec
ton. 1t is soft, pliable, graceful and withal
to be found in most exquisite colors and
tints. A most desirable and smart costume
for visiting and driving that is somewhat
less extreme than those just described but
effective and chic, is of the sheer sort in a
warm blue and is hung over green. The
founces, each OF which is edged with a
silk band put on with faggoting. The
jacket is a tucked bolero similarly edged
| cut quite short. and with ample bell
sleeves finished with plisse frills OF chiffon
set within and extending only slightly be-
low The bodice is simple blouse but
of Irish lace and with big full sleeves
that droop below those of the bolero. The
green is never aggressive. 1t is there and
il makes itself known in a subtle sugges-
ton of color, that tempers and harmoniZes
with the blue and il is essentially smart
but so carefully have both shades been Sc
lected one looks twice before realizing just
how the effect is produced No combina-
ton is more fashiona BILE and none requires
, greater skill to obtain satisfactory results
Touches of green are seen on every side.
Much of the genuine DarOuuet shade is
used in bits and on millinery. but let me
once more repeat the caution against over
doing. Nothing is easier than to vulgariZe
just such effects. Unless have an ar
tistic eye, or can afford to employ others
who have made study of color. it is wiser
by far TO choose less popular and less dan
gerous combina tons.
MAY BE VULGARIZED
Within the week l have seen the exquisite
costume described and some very charming
. and essentially smart hats of white with
green in the trimming but l also have
: seen dozens OF green and blue combinations
to make one shudder, and huge green birds
perched defiantly on hats that seemed all
too big and heavy for the wearers' heads.
! Birds, by the way, are much in evidence.
r Many times over one is tempted TO ask.
does the Audubon Society really exist?
Personally, ! do not admire them as milli-
; merry apart from the grounds of disap-
|. prevail. Just why women should like to
) wear their poor, dead little bodies ] do
/, not understand. They give one a sense of
) slaughter in the past. and, in addition.
are far less attractive than the many man
, ufactured trimmings that rival them in
splendor and subtilty of color, but were
. | / an aGmirer of two parOquets perched on
: | a brIm or of blackbirds so arranged as to
| seem TO be devouring the fruit that accom-
panies them the pity of ravaged woods
| and birdless trees would. | think. STAY my
! desires. With the loveliest possible colors
offered us in ribbons, in chiffon in arti-
fetal flowers, and the like. there seems
! little excuse for despOling the forests of
! their treasures and decorating ourselves
: | with slain creatures whose mission il was
= ! 10 make the world brighter, happier. more
/, / buoyant with their beauty and their song.
! Evening gowns exquisite in their
: ! dainty materials and tender color. One of
! the many that failed 10 be worn during
= | London festivities. is of white net over
i ! Liberty satin yelled with chiffon The ma
: terial is divided into narrow panels by tiny
! bands OF white velvet ribbon. and each OF
, I these panels il embroidered with a design