New-York tribune., 1902-08-03
LONG, CLOSE SLEEVES,
a FEW PARTISAN WOMEN AFFECT
THEM-PANELS MAY COME IN.
Paris. july 26.

Paris. July
The wardrobes carried to Trouville and the other
smart French resorts comprise a large proportion
of white gowns For almost any style Of gown
white seems the favorite color. Women past their
first youth are the ardent deyotees of this
color, while pale pink and blue are largely reie-
gated to young girls.
The English ernbroideries only grow in popularity
as the season approaches August and there are few
midsummer outfits that do not comprise at least
gown made entirely Of this openwork stuff
Such a gown is generally made with ruffied or
hounced skirt and trimmed with some touches OF
thin lace The material is pretty mounted over a
coored foundation, and is slightly more youthful
than when kept all white. But there are many
more elaborate ways Of using the English enlbroid-
cry. Typically Partisan is gown OF cream colored
embroidery combined with blue cloth in a pastel
shade The skirt is almost entirely Of the embroid-
ery trimmed with many cloth straps, and the habit
is of cloth elaboratey trimmed with the embroidery.
The idea of course, suggests the models of coored
lace and cloth that had such success in the spring.
but the embroidered linen used in this way is de-
cidedly novel
Piqce gowns in great numbers are being worn,
and are made novel by means of the most elaborate
ano original embroideries- Some Of these suggest
the japanese some the Persian and Indian patterns
and many less known patterns taken from the cos
Tunes OF Balkan peasants. These are used on
severe tailored suits of pique and linen.
COTTON EMBROIDERIEs
Cotton ernbroideries are having great squirt Of
r,ouularity that promises to last blue cotton
broidery done on inserted pattern Of white silk
makes 2 most effective trimming on gown OF
cream coored toile About the bottom OF the sklrt
is a border Of the silk hemstitched on the bottom
and making irregular deep teeth the upper edge,
and the heavy embroidery runs over this On the
blouse the same trimming forms stole ending at
the belt and with the cut out piece filled in by a
draped chemisette Of white mousseline de sole Inc
close sleeves have turnup embroidered cuffs at the
elbows. and draped unlined underseeVes, initiating
= hirh zvrinkled glove. Of mousseline de sole Ihe
-rsstbsnd is of black velvet. and about the choker
&c g loose narrow cravat Of the same
A charming costume OF white mousseline de sole
has tbe bodice and deep yoke the skirt painted
With lunches of pink The rest of the skirt
Is covered with mousseline de sole rufes boroered
with little hemstitched bands Of pink silk Inc full
sleeves are gathered into wristbands OF Cluny ana
tbe same lace makes deep collar held with pink
silk chou.
This model IS reproduced in an inexpensive gown
made partly Of plain black muslin aHd partly Of
black spotted with white. The rufi1es on the Skirt
are of the plain black. bordered with white ribbon,
and the upper part Of the skirt and the blouse and
bg sleeves are Of the fancy stuff loosely pleated
The collar and cuffs Of Irish point
A simple August toilet is OF white English en-
brodery the skirt made in three parts and the
blouse almost covered by deep bertha There Is
pretty belt and loose cravat Of black velvet An
other eirlsh gown is Of cream batste embroidered
with white and trimmed with sash and cravat Of
red and white spotted foulard. Foulard seems more
often used as a trimming now tnan lor an ehtliS
gown
SEEN AT VERSAILLES FETE
Some rnodish women are affecting long, perfectly
close sleeves Several at the charity fete given
at Versailles recently were worn by women who
have reputation leading the modes. One gown
was of a light weight white cloth trimmed with
bands of the same and Irish lace The Irish lace.
which looked well combined with cloth, used to
form yoke the skirt and the lower part OF the
blouse. headed and finished below the yoke by
eral narrow stitched bands. The choker and small
pointed enpiecement of the lace framed in q
collar OF cloth trimmed only by the bands. and the
long. close sleeves trimmed by alternate bands
OF lace and cloth On the bottom of the skirt
OF cloth and lace were used 70 make deep points.
with panels of English embroidery The elbow
sleeves were perfectly close and finished with no
trimming save cluster of black velvet loops
ribbon oops but the whole idea of the costume was
long I'D and down lines 1t was worn with a fat
and long naitts Of chantiiiy lace. ''-'''eS'
There are far more feathers than flowers used in
millinery now An imitation feather made OF nous
seline is very effective and becoming The lace
rnitts that have been SO much talked about and
written of this season have hao only moderate
success. The lace shops carry them and advertise
wearing them. Those Of chantily are really most
beautiful
evening cioakr are made Of IL mounted EeneraiIyy
over white Three-Quarter cioaks OF light weight
bned with white lace and embroidered mousseline
Little. coquettish short eacQues with pleated sides
and big. open sleeves come IN Chantilly lace.
oTer white end trimmed with entredeux and appli-
cations Of Irish point The skirt is made with a
straight apron bor6ered with white lace appli-
cations and about the rest OF the skirt are two
deep foUnces trimmed with applications and headed