Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-10-17
STYLES In MEMS DRESS
GETTING VERY CLOSE TO EN-
GLIsH STANDARDS.
The First Talk Of Fall Fashions-Con-
servatism is to Rule-The
New Shirtings.

From the Haberdasher
Fashions for fall are now in that embry-
onic state which admits of great deal OF
speculation and very little intelligent fore
casting. We may follow the trend so far
as it has developed, but We cannot. with
any great degree OF certainty, put the
stamp of authority on what may be classed
as the entirely new ideas, or ideas that are
merely in the Introductory stage. The mode
has been drifting most decidedly toward
conservatism and angloisms. We are dress
ing very close to the English standards.
look forward to a season that Will be re-
markable on account of the almost COM
plete metamorphosing of the American sar-
torial type-while the notifications which
have always obtained in anything distinctly
American will be preserved on the other
hand the long waist line or skirted great
coats, the low-buttoned waistcoats, the
wing and poke collars and the ascots, ana
high hats will be almost universal ana VIII
materially change the tout ensemble OF a
wel-dressed American crowd. we VIII
leave the tight-fittng short overcoats, the
small stiff hats. the fold collars and the
narrow small cravats for larger, more
formal and much more artistic types: IN
everything where color is permissible Dor
the hues and the design will be kept wlthln
the most unobtrusve lines. This Will pc
specially true of shirtings. The very loud
shirt pattern and even the noticeable pat
tern is thing of the past. In the best shops
we will find the pleated shirts and the PLAIN
shirts in whites and in white and white,
white and black, white and blue and other
treatments in which white Is the dominant
color note. The pleated shirts will have
lined bosoms which will be full Numbered.
These will have cuffs with moderately
rounded tips with wide stitching. Inc
square cornered cuff will also be shown ana
will divide the honors with the round point:
but l think the latter will be favored by
that class of men who avoid as much as
possible anything that savors of the ready
made.
Patterns in Shirtings.
There are certain patterns in shirtings,
those of the rather clear cut stripe order,
which do not look well in vertical form
These are being made up by custom trade
in stiff bosom styles showing the thwart
stripe. A thwart stripe shirt looks well with
a wing collar and wide big knot four-in-
hand, and | would not be surprised to see
the style come in again. 1t is one or the
problematical things and of course will II
1t succeeds at all, be triumph for the Gus
tom Shirtma kerS.
Round point wing and standing collars
will be introduced. The former are not
bad and have been freely adopted by q Sc
lect set but the latter are an abom1natlon
and should find no place In the smart shops.
The fold collars will be worn; the types Row
in favor will most probably continue: L
see no reason to believe that there will be
anything new in this line. The Just meet
ing straight ISLANDERS will be greatly IA
vored for evening dress, and pokes will be
given a prominent place In formal day at
tire In all of these collars the wide stitch
Ing is shown, and all of them are Numbered
in the dull-finished domestic style.
Cravattings will be most interesting, s
is natural when forms are not subject to
the circumscribed limits imposed by certain
absolute requirements of type Of collar.
1t is not only the tradesman who dislkes
the popularity of a style that ties original
ity and individuality down to purely me-
chanical limits. The broad ascots and four
in-hands the squares and the de Joinviles
all afford opportunity for the display of
experiences and individuality In adjustment.
to say nothing Of the exclusiveness posi-
BILE In silks. that can be woven in squares
and confined effectively on account of the
small number woven. Great yardage is the
worst enemy Of exclusiveness. and this is
something one does not have to fear in
either squares or de Joinvlles. The color
ings will be moderate in their assembling.
but brilliant II taken individually. The best
designs show a great deal Of the ground.
and well-spaced figures, or else figures so
closely interviewer that they are not con-
spicuous. The broad cravats will likely
figure prominently in the autumn. They
will be worn with the wing collar and the
pleated shirt. The ascot will be a great
favorte and 1t will be crossed low in order
to conform with the new lines of the low
buttonng waistcoats.
Fancy Waistcoats.
Fancy waistcoats will, as usual. be put
forth by the tailors. but it is quite safe to
predict for those of fancy pattern and odd
color a very cool reception. The double
breasted waistcoats of white linen duck or
of the tan silk rep will be good. The former
will undoubtedly be the most popular The
fancy waistcoats will be worn with bust
ness dress. that for formal day wear will
undoubtedly be white. Jeweled buttons are
being prepared for evening dress waistcoats.
These are in dull gold with the wearer's
monogram engraved thereon or with small
diamond or pearl in the center. There are
many other designs. but I feel perfectly
satisfied that they will not replace the plain
mother-of-pearl buttons now so universal.
If the most prominent characteristics of
the mode are markedly conservative it is
very safe to assume that the details. the
minor points, will be conservative. 1t al
ways has been and I see no reason why
we should think now that 1t would fail to
be so during the season to come.
In outer clothes, the garments in which
the tailor is more interested than is the
haberdasher, we will. think. go into more
flowing forms. leaving the strictly military
cut jackets and trousers aside. for those
following lines very much similar to the re-
cent English standards. We have been tell
ing the Enelshman for years that his
clothes did not fit him. installing what the
Englishman thought artistic for inexpert-
ness the part of the British tailors. Now
we are about to discard the very close
fitting garments and therefore dress more
like a civilian than d cavalryman 1t is
claimed by those who know more about art
than do that to get grace and true artistic
results in clothing there must be some
draping. Therefore the mode is no
doubt likely to be productive of more grace
full appearing clothing than the old mode
was. Few men. and only very young and
well-built men at that. looked well in the
strictly military jacket. and for me I am
glad to welcome the incoming of looser gar
mentS.
The Cut of Clothes.
The new coats and the new trousers will
outline the human figure: they will not be
quite so baggy as either the French or the
English, but judging from the American
standpoint they will be decidedly loose
Trousers will follow the leg lines without
being tight or being peg top The frock
coat will be CT medium length and will have
a long roll to the lapels, in order to be more
in keeping with the low-cut waistcoats
Overcoats for ordinary day wear will be Of
the large box order and will have breast