Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-12-13
S MART DRESSING
What It's Main Character
istics Really Are.
ATSTUDY OF TYPES
PRACTICAL NECESSITIES SHOULD
BE LOOKED AFTER.
Artistic Gowning Should Be Given the
Attention It De-
serves.

Written for The Evening Star.
For one thing at least the American So
ciety woman may give thanks. She has no
clothes traditions to follow. She is less
hampered than her sisters across the water.
English and German women do themselves
an injustice in their gownng by never
striving after the attractive ideal. French
women cheaper themselves by their arti-
fciality. Viennese women overload them
selves with trimmings and ornaments. The
fashionable women of America, having 40
traditions to follow, look for the best each
bazaar has to offer and combine the most
attractive specialties of other nations.
With her each costume must be finished
picture, and her personality must give it
atmosphere. If she Is an artist in clothes
she will emphasize her best features To
idealize the real woman is the highest per-
lection in dressing.
Comparatively few women appreciate the
secret of artistic gowning, but the standard
Is getting always higher Indeed, not few
American women deserve credit for display
ing their very best points. in knowing what
really suits them.
Mrs. John Jacob Astor. for example,
knows that her patrician. cameo-like beau
ty will bear gown of plain white satin
that would make another woman look hid
eous, and she always wears 1t whenever
possible.
Mrs Oliver Hartman knows that black
best suits her gorgeous oriental style, and
she is seldom seen in anything else.
The little Countess CaStellane has been
transformed by modistes from an almost
plain girl into very smart and extremely
welI-gowned woman.
Mrs Clarence Mackay has learned that a
certain eccentricity is her charm, and she
accentuates that quality in everything she
wears. EXaggeration is her forte, and yet
she keeps within the boundary line of fit
ness.
face and 1.-THE figure look best in simple,
quaint clothes, and one gets the impression
that her things suit her perfectly.
Mrs. Curzon, who was Mary Letter, wears
a regal style of gowns and garniture that
make her look the thoroughly queenly type
of woman that she is.
Occasionally there are women who ought
to know better, yet who are grotesque in
their dressing. They dress like market wo-
NELL not like the aristocrats that they
really are. Usually one such woman Is TO
be found in every social clique. Their pc
culiarties in Dress however do not seem
to affect their popularity.
The Christmas holidays give better OPP
portunity for showing off ones wardrobe
to advantage than almost any other time,
for it marks the very height of the season,
following in New York, the horse show,
the opera and the largest events of the
society year. when the display is so bril-
liant that only those gowns that have char
aeter count
The trappings for gaslight wear are SIM
pie problem compared with the difficult
question Of simple daytime gowns. The
regulation garb of people who live on the
golf links or in the saddle is easily disposed
of. But for the person who goes about
town the question of rairnent is not so nom
chalantly dismissed. Apparel for many
different occasions has to be considered
for ordinary visiting. daytime entertain
ments, shopping, walking, driving, foot ball
games, Christmas outings and family par
ties, church festivals and all the events
that come with the season, and do not have
to be considered at any other time. For
all these a woman must have a complete
set not only of smart, but particularly SER
viceable. day gowns. hats and wraps.
long coat Of black cloth. silk or satin. 1t
covers a multitude of sins in the shape of
a gown too old to be displayed, or too elab-
crate to be worn shopping and meant to
matinee. If the coat is lined with white
satin and faced with trimming of light
effect, it will >be useful for evening wear
and will be an extremely satisfactory gar
ment.
black hat, which may be draped with
a black and white gauze veil. completes
a costume that dresses woman for any
occasion. short of an elaborate luncheon,
reception or other entertainment
A visiting gown recently made up Tor
smartly dressed woman would answer for
a reception, for driving. tea, luncneon or
church wedding. 1t is made of champagne
colored French broadcloth, with very sharp
outlines in black velvet ribbon and silver
braid. The skirt is laid in fine pleats. stitch
ed like tuclxs, but allowed to stand out
from the skirt Stars OF embroidery, in
black and white, ornament the bottom OF
the skirt. and black is much used about the