The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1902-02-16
DRESSMAKNG AN ART INDEED.
A RUSH or GIRLS TO PRATT
INSTITUTE TO STUDY 1T.


turc lncfudeu IN tho Course -ssoou
Reasons for inst Daughters OF the
wealthy ~ We'll a. Poor Girls There.
The d~ressmaking department Of Pratt
Institute long ago passed Its experimental
stage, Now 1t Ii one Of the most successful
features OF ar institution eminently sue
oessful. and Is growing at a rate that makes
the problem Of providing for it's proper
development an embarrassing one.
The class rooms arc full from early morn
ing until late in the evening. and there Ia no
room for the intermediate classes for which
the heads Of the department are longing.
There are many d~ressnaking schools in
the country now. When the Pratt dress
making school was started fifteen years
ago IL stood alone on this side of the ocean.
Miss Harriet Sackett, the director OF the
department. found her Inspiration In France.
| There she saw schools in which girls were
scientifically and thoroughly trained for
the dressmaking profession.
In this country good dressmakers were
few and those few complained Of the i'm
possibility OF obtaining competent assist
ants. A clever seamstress was very rare
Yet, in spite OF all this, the standard Of
taste in dress was rapidly rising here, and
the demand for artistic dressmaking was
| increasing at a great rate. A broad field OF
employment lay open to girls, but the girls
were not able to undertake the work.
They needed training. There seemed TO
be no place where they could obtain II.
Pratt Institute opened It's dressmaking
| department 70 fill the want.
There has been a wonderful develop
ment during the last fifteen years. not only
! in our school, but in the dressnaking trade
said Miss Sackett to a Sun reporter. Each
wear successful dressmaking calls for Il
! higher form of art and intellect.
There was never a time when our women
dressed SO well or u time when there was
room for so much individuality In dress.
The day of the best gown. carefully brushed
| and laid away for state occasions. Ia past.
a woman now wants gowns particularly
suited to each occasion. Then, too, the
gown must be adapted not only 70 the occa-
sion. but 10 the wearer.
There was never before, | think, such
beauty In the color. design and texture OF
sven the cheap goods used for d~ressInaking
purposes, and this beauty OF materials
makes possible innumerable new effects
in designing. Designers can now blend
many shades and materials In one gown
where formerly they we're obliged 10 limit
themselves TO one or two colors and one
or two forms Of trimming.
The new materials and the increasing
demand for artistic work call for greater
skill in designing and make dressmaking
an art a. well as a trade. The old-time
dressmaker. who could cut and NJ and sew,
but knew nothing beyond that, isn't in
line to-day unless she has had the wit
and energy TO keep step with progress.
"She may make a good cutter or filter
OF forewoman In ali establishment, but
the successful dressmaker to-day must
create. No superficial knowledge will do
for her.
! ferior dressmakers making a fair living,
but the demand for the better sort OF work
increases steadily. 1t il TO provide work
women capable Of such work that we are
| trying to train our Students.
ave do not take a girl under IS into the
professional dressmaking class. An APP
Dlicant must he q fair seamstress before
she can I've admitted. and must be willing
to work steadily for al least one year.
Naturally We cannot agree TO make
every girl a proficient dressmaker in a year;
but II a pupil sews wei! and can make plain
rme well when she comes TO us, and
X she is intelligent and Industrious. We can
in one year train her to a point where all
that she needs is practical experience.
MANY Of our girls enter the advanced
class from our lower classes in plain sewing,
and they, of course, have the advantage
Of particularly thorough grounding. Other
pupils have already had some professional
work, but nave realized that they could
not climb far without a more thorough
knowledge of their trade and have come
here to get II.
I'm addition to the professional course
we have a home ~dressmakmg course
adapted TO girls who want 10 learn TO make
clothes for themselves and the members
OF their families. but do not intend TO take
the work up as n profession, They have a
training along the lines Of the professional
course, but not 80 extensive. and their
classes mec. only twice a week. while the
professional classes meet every day.
The girls I'm the same classes are OF all
sorts and conditions. Some of them are
poor. others come from wealthy families
More and more, wealthy parents seem
70 he recognizing the value of practical
training for their daughters. We see
that in many OF the departments OF the
school, and particularly In those Of do
nestle science and domestic art.
How many drossmaking pupils have
you?'
Miss Sackett made a calculation.
in the day classes 1872, but that Includes
both professional and home courses. Then
there are 1876 students in the sewing classes.
and We have night classes for working
girls who want TO learn something about
dressmaking. but can't come by day.
Il would have 10 look w the night class
numbers for you. There are 1874 In tho
dra wing classes.
What have drawing classes TO do with
dressmaking.H
The director tried politely not 10 show
her scorn.
why. they are at the very basis OF Il,
side by side with plain sewing. Every girl
in the professional classes is Obliged 10
take the course in free pencil sketching and
water colors. The home-course pupils
are not compelled 20 take that work. but
most Of them do IL.
have n special course in costume
designing. but that is a part OF the art
depaTtment and intended for students who
intend to make illustration for fashion
| ma ga zines and for dressmakers a pro-
fcSsiOn.
-Our drcssmaking students study and
sketch the human figure. They must
| understand proportions and know how
| 10 make the best of a good or a poor figure
by the art of dress. They sketch COS
tune models. They copy models.
They study line and drapery. Then
they take mp water colors and 20 into the
philosophy OF color, combination. harmony.
Come into the SCHOOL rooms and I'll show