The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1902-02-09
le,hat Jpriin!g
Has IN gfore.
Bv MAY MANTON.

BY MAY NIAN;lOlN.
The tendency in all the advance models
and the new materials is toward an in
tensined clinging effect Fashionable
fabrics are all soft and woven to fall in
close folds. Heavy, stiff silks are things
OF the past Even cotton fabrics give.
evidence of the demand for weaves that
are free from al. stiffness and include
Swiss muslin that lacks that quaiity,
as well as deliciously soft clinging mulls
and batistes.A AS u have previoGsiy
stated, summer gowns are apt to be
planned and made long before spring
costumes are taken into consideration
While there are few distinctively new
styles. details vary, and upon them de-
ponds much of the smartness OF an
gown. Frills and s1ounces galore are III
vogue. You can scarcely so amiss IN
the use of either one or the other. The
favorite bodice is the blouse ard many
Of them show yokes with berthas as
finish. Again lace stitches are much IN
evidence. An exceedingly pretty lowered
muslin is made with a fve-gored upper
portion, and circular fiounce that's mar
row at both front and back and curves
up at the sides. All the seams OF the
skirt are held by herringbone and the
entire ,founce is covered with mario"
rlisse frills that are lace-edsed Nisn
it is a yoke bodice, the yoke Of lace.
a graceful round bertha and elncT
sleeves. The material is white, with 4
design in pink, and both frills and bertha
are OF plain white, combination that
is both effective and worth noting from
an economic point Of view. Comblna-
lions always make the most available
means of altering and remodelling.
When, as in this instance. one material
is a plain white, the task of matching
becomes simplifed, while the result IS
eminently satisfactory. 1okeS and
b1ouSeS are not new, but the ADDITION OF
an up-to-date bertha makes them So
and sleeves cut off at the elbows mark
this seasons styles. whether the finish
be q simple band, Follower cuffs or frills.
Lace promises to be freely used. Among
a generous collection Of fancy odd waists
scarcely one but showed the delicate mas
terial in one form or other Dainty cod
waists, by the way, are to be much worn
with skirts of white yelling and aba
stross, as we'll as pique or duck. The
thinest, most delicate mulls, with lace,
make the favorite materials, and charm
ingly dainty results are obtained. a
novelty, but one which should be &C
cepted with much doubt, is a shallow,
wide open square at the neck, worn with
q wide dog collar. The waist is cut out
very nearly to the shoulders, but only
a few inches below the collar line, SO
giving the wide, broad effect and looks
we'll shown upon dummy figures; put,
believe me, any such neck is certain to
be trying to eight women out OF ten.
Ideal threats, white and column-like
may be able to stand the ordeal, but
nothing short Of perfection should in
duce one to make the attempt All
square Jokes appear to have great prom
inence. Many of these pretty ODD waists
are made with transparent yokes SO
IL 49, T., f,-1y1Y nod
the effect. TouIards also show the tend
ency, and many Of them are made with
squares Of lace or Of chiffon tucked.
BE A FOULARD SEASON.
A foulard seasor. Il is evidently to De.
In addition 70 all the weaves have men
toned in previous letters we have a
Liberty satin that is marveiously beat
tiful both in colors and designs All
sorts OF models are shown, but there IS
q. certain and definite tendency toward
volurninousness at the lower portions OF
the skirt and toward emphasizing all
perpendicular lines, in orderzto accentu-
ate the slender effect Time was when
ne strove to keep seams as inconsDlcli-
Gus as might DE, but all this, is OF the
past To-day we elaborate them with
lace stitches, insert lace, pipe them with
satin of contrasting color, and do all In
our power to make them serve as deco
70 ton as well as perform their proSalc
service. An entirely new model foulard.
III soft tars with white, is cut most Pc
culiarly, but serves to emphasize this
tendency and to show how pipings are
used. Each gore of the skirt widens be
low the knees. then is cut to give 9
founoe effect, with an irregular upper
edge, and each seam is piped with white,
SO making a succession OF curves, not
unlike scrolls, round the entire skirt
A really lovely model, in black and white
is finished with q circular .dolEce plated
at the upper edge. and shows encre deu,
Of black chantiliy at each seam, through
the meshes Of which is caught glirnps
OF pa!e-blue foundation skirt. There i
a marked tendency toward just sucl
effects. Color, that would be held aS
gressive in a. mass. is used for the drol
skirt aid bodice lining, and it gives !;
suggestion of brilliaucy or contrast soft
ened by the lace. a really charming
crepo de chine in pastel or tan color
made with a skirt that is tucked from
the upper edge to within founce dept
Of the floor. Above the hem and form.
ing the hip yoke is Irish crochet colore.
TO match it in tone and laid over pale
blue. The accompanying bodice is :
blouse that closes at the back and Shows
entire deux OF the lace over the blue, be
tween groups OF fine hand-ru1l tucks