The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1902-11-30
TALES OF A TRAVELLER.
BY PAUL PRY.

/, enjoying in the meantime the view, the
altitude and the accessible mountain
walks. Others had just arrived from the
Gemmi. while others, like ourselves, were
anticipating Its wild wonders on the NOR
row. So far, all our outdoor trips had
been made in comfortable coaches, for
the private carriages in Switzerland and
the diligence post operated by the gov
eminent are equally comfortable. But,
the Gemmi is too wild and precipitous for
either and must be made on horseback.
Fortunately, we had secured these In ad-
vance. Our amiable hostess informed
us that 1t took every horse in the whole
valley to accommodate our Party; SO
that the less enterprising Englishman
was obliged to wait over until the follow
Ing day for horses and guides. 1t was
August IL, but during the night there was
a heavy snow-storm, and when we arose
the next morning we were surprised to
see the white covering far down on the
| mountain side reaching almost to our
-bedecked valley. We made an
early start having ordered far earlier
breakfast than is customary on the con-
tinent. But, 1t was not so early bur what
every inmate of the hotel-guest as well
as servant was up to witness the guard
mount" The chaperone prided herself
on pleasant surprises along The journey,
but this days travel on horseback was
the greatest surprise of ALL Some had
never been on horseback in their lives,
while others had not enjoyed the ex-
perience for many years. But. the fun
was great, as big and little young and
DID, clambered to the seat. say Clam
bered" advisedly, for the morning was
bitter cold, and most of us HAD donrod
the entire contents of our dress-suit
cases in our endeavor to keep warm
Kodaks were levelled at us from every
vantage point, 5n' we I'D not mind, for
the spirit and fun Of the experience pos
sessed us. Finally we were all ready, the
last stirrup adjusted, and the last tip be-
slowed
There were fourteen of us, each on
horseback and with a guide at each
horses head, in addition there were two
horses and two more guides well laden
with our hand-baggage. We looked like
a Veritable caravan, as we trailed one by
one, up the narrow gorge leading from
the Kander valley.
Then enthusiasm ran riot, and in mer-
riment, one cried:-"Why, l would not
take ten dollars for this" but our senior
member went him ten dollars better. ana
vowed she would not take twenty" for
the experience. AS we climbed the mar
~" iiouhldlH pain, lne snow began TO
fall gently and-we could scarcely realize
that 1t was an August day. The road
makes thirty-five curves as it climbs I'm
the steep mountain slope, and often So
precipitous were the curves that the fore
rlost one of the caravan would be d.
dectly above the slowly following rear.
The ascent to the highest point of the
Gemmi Pass took four hours and hair.
but 1t was morning of indescribanIa
beauty and grandeur. Beyond question
the Gemmi is one of the widest AMI
grandest OF Alpine passes. For over hair
the Journey, the Kander valley Inv
stretched beneath us, while more inme-
dlately below us were grand rax.ines
sudden precipitous slopes, leapino. rnnn.
ing torrents and great glaciers which
deoouched here and there Above rs and
beyond was the magnificent peaks of tb,
Bernese and Valaisan Alps MANY ~
them now solidly clothed In white nv
the time we reached the Gemmi thew
was quite covering of snow along orr
pathway, and as the clouds lifted and
the sun appeared, glancing first from
mountain peak to peak the beauty of tho
scene was indescribable. At the Cemm,
we dismounted and enjoyed with greet
relish the comforts of the spacious hote,
situated among snow-covered mounto,,,
peaks at height of over seven tbousord
feet. We spent a couple of hours arenas.
the big CHEEKY fire. discussing the unio,a
phases or the experience before we neear
the descent to Leukerbad. which is
much shorter journey, and one and on
voted this snowy 18th truly "oold aa a'i
in August" uay