davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-10-05

ting silk, one black, one white, were bought.
The velvet was cut into five-inch strips say
ing enuogh for the belt. These pieces were
sewed together, lined with crinoline, three
inches marked off for the end, and the rings
formed by tracing them around spool.
This was done on the wrong side with COL
ored crayon. The design was then cut out,
leaving perpendicular stems to the disks. The
gown being completed except for the finish
ing, the velvet band was faced in at the bot
tom and each stem and disk carefully basted
in place. Two threads of the white silk were
laid fiat across the first space up the stem,
around the wheel and on to the next, being
couched diagonally with the black silk.
When all was finished, rays Of the white
silk were made to point to the center Of each
wheel. The velvet band on the sleeves has
the rings outlined with the COUGHING, but not
cut out, and at the throat they are gradu-
ated.
Satisfied with this success she passed on
to the next.
This was a loosely woven rose cloth, with
soft loops of black and white, shaggily
thrown up so as to give the appearance of
stripe. Plain rose broadcloth, corded with
tiny tucks, formed the collar and cuffs to
the oversleeves. White silk muslin was used
green velvet bordered the collar and cuffs
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-10-05

three more waves.
Each side of the head is treated in exactly
tue same manner, every step being repeated
In the proper order, though it will not OFTEN
be found necessary to do more than Iour
waves to this part.
There is great deal in this pinning proc
ess, for, unless the hair is held quite nat
and the waves kept in even rows the erect
is decidedly marred. Part of the trick
lies in handling the comb, for with thiS III
strument the ondulations are formed Out
after little practice the hair may be tralneo
to fall in natural waves.
The pins should be allowed to remain In
the hair from half an hour to an hour, the
length of time really depending on the rapid
ity with which the hair dries. tits an eA-
cellent idea to tie over this part of the hair
thin old veil or a piece of soft point
d'esprit. To be sure, this sort of head wear
Is not the prettiest thing in the world, Dut IL
is worn in a good cause, and the result OF
the waving process will be found so thor
oughly satisfactory that one can excuse the
means employed. Besides, pins and ven
could never equal in uginess paper twists
and curious arrangements once upon time
used on miladi's pretty head.
When the pinned-down hair is quite dry
the wire hairpins should be removed and
the hair lifted off the face and carefully
combed through with a coarse comb. Then
it should be allowed to hang over the face
in order to permit of the fiutting operation
This does away with the wearing of a rat"
and makes the pompadour stand out in
soft roll that is perfectly light and COM
Portable on the head. The inner side of the
pompadour, from the line Of the part ex-
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-10-05

Braids, apassementeries and embroideries
are offered this fall in gorgeous display.
Some are Persian, with dark Oriental coors,
frightened occasionally by twisted goio
thread or patch of old silver cloth; some are
Japanese, brilliant, almost grotesque in their
weave and design; others are just artistic
and attractive trimmings.
If one is attracted by the embroideries she
certainly is startled at their value: one
gown, deliberately trimmed, is worth more
than the cost of a summer in the country
for most persons. And yet we must have
them, and an occasional shopper has solved
the problem how.
She first did that thing dreaded of sales
men-took samples of the new dress mate
rails. These she took home and studied.
The camel's hair and rough-dotted cloths
seemed most popular and workable for street
gowns. For matinee waists she could find
nothing prettierthan crepe de chine and silk
batiste, and a robins egg-blue broadcloth
for the morning gown.
With these materials at hand she drew
upon her ingenuity and the memory Of the
embroidery displays for her trimmings.
First she took up the cameFs hair. It was
dark blue, with long, silvery hairs giving it
sheen. Here was the chrysalis of the idea
vet, cut on the bias, and two spools of knit
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-10-05

the hair has fallen into the way 1t should
go.
We will assume that the hair is to be worn
low On the neck and undulations are desired
in the pompadour and sides. The first step
is to part off the hair from ear to ear, as one
would before doing 1t up. The hair should
be thoroughly brushed SO that there are no
particles Of dust or dandruff to make 1T look
dingy, and above all there should be no
oily appearance to detract from the beauty
and softness that are SO essential to the well-s
groomed head.
When all these points have been carefully
observed and the front hair has been sep
arated from the rest the next step is to di-
vide this portion into three sections, each
one then being brushed down over the face
| and moistened slightly with some good odor-
less tonic. A tonic is used instead of water,
simply for the reason that it is considered
more beneficial and certain dampness is re-
quired to make the hair easy to handle.
Now comes the real trick of it all. and the
novice will find herself feeling all fingers and
thumbs until she has acquired the sknack of
( making waves. The middle part of the POM
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-10-05

For the straight-Taired woman there dawns
a brighter day. Let her throw away crimp-
ing pins and papers and abandon curling
irons. There is little trick to be learned
whereby she may make her hair assume
fascinating curls all over the head, ana
the best part of the new idea lies IN the
fact that these curls made without irons
actually defy fogs and rain.
To be fashionable, ones couture must now
be arranged in series of undulations all
over the head, while the pompadour, paftlc
ularly, should show a softness that makes
it becoming to nearly every face.
The curly haired woman has had her IN
ming and has gloated over her less fortunate
sister, who has struggled for hours TO get
her stringy locks into presentapie SHAPE
only to see them straighten out in the damp
air or blow into unattractive wisps. NOW
her mind may be at rest and her pretty head
may rival the browning glory of the Lore
lei.
1t has always seemed a pity to use curling
+ irons on the hair, for no matter now care
fully they are welded the hair will sooner or
later crack and split under the treatment.
Pins likewise spoil the natural beauty OF
fair head, while papers, though less harm
full. are cut of date on account OF their
hideousneSS.
But waves are fashionable, so waves we
must have, and many lovely head OF hair
is utterly ruined in the endeavor to keep
it up to the mark of fashion. Besides this
destruction to the life and beauty of each
hirsute filament, there Is an appalling waste
of time curling the hair every day with the
irons. Perhaps this hour or hour and half
might not seem much of a loss if, in the
end. the hair derived some benefit from their
use, but unfortunately this does not happen
to be the case. Now, the new method,
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-10-05

which does away entirely with irons and
heat in producing waves, may be considered
in quite the opposite light, and the woman
who tries it for few successive weeks
will find that her hair has improved aston
ishingly under the treatment, while in the
meantime Eer wavy locks have been a source
of envy to every other feminine creature.
In the beginning it may be we'll to say
that some heads Of hair are vastly more
amenable to any curling process than 9th
ers, but eventually they all will conform to
the much desired style if carefully and prop
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-10-05

tending from ear to ear, is ''puckered up,
as it were, by running the comb in severa
short movements through this inside layer
and toward the head When sufficient
foundation has been given to it all the waved
part of the hair is drawn up and rounded
prettily ever this mass of fuffineSs.
The actual waving of the hair in this man
ncr is really far simpler to do than one
would think, and after the trick has been
followed for short time it will be surpris-
ing to note how naturally the hair falls into
the way of curling, so that even in damp
New-York tribune., 1902-03-02

return like such a very srhaII peg to hang
ambitious aspirations upon! The American mans
proverbal Indulgence 10 his womenkind Is undoubt-
edy the reason of such folly, for that he himself
would of his own accord pay off the debts and
settle income on an impecunous sOn-in-law for
the sake of a paltry title passes belief
However. Heaven be thanked. these humilia ting
marriages are becoming fewer and fewer. Ruined
nobemen no longer find that il is an easy way of
retrieving their fortunes by coming 10 America
and marrying heiress Even the women who
sufficiently mercenary TO sell themselves and
their incomes for great social position
full Ito put II baldly) that they have their moneys
worth. No prnCey adventurer or peer that is
under cloud need aspire 10 their hand and their
dollars. The exchange must be fair and square.
The American heiresS must be persona grata in
court circles: her husband be must be honored
in his country. And although she knows that
he seeks TO bring up an ancient house by her
money the height of its former Spendor and
himself unworthy consort. Such marriages
may be termed alliances, and for those who care
for high places more than true love and domestic
happiness they in way legitimate, and will
always long Vanity Fair exists, have a
recognized place; but the days when any title
who come over to this country with that in
tent find themselves sorely disappointed.
Apart. however, from the splendor Of the alli-
ances just alluded to- ii seems odd that young
women should be willing without the all com
peiling power Of love either side, TO leave their
friends. home and country for the unknown, and
to go among the relatives of the man who, how
ever kind necessarily be critical and alien.
The loneliness of such life at first cannot be
overestimated, and the subsequent happiness is
riages such these are now few and
far between, and that American women are be-
coming more loyal TO American men. who GER
tainly deserve their trust and appreciation, and
New-York tribune., 1902-03-02
A DESERT WEDDING.

Invitations sent out for the marriage OF Miss
Mabel Florina TelfOrd to Henry David Evans on
the evening of Tuesday. March IS. at the home OF
Mr.. and Mrs Howard L. Underhill. Kenilworth
Ranch. Scottsdale, Ariz-
The bride is a well known Brooklyn girl OF Pratt
High School 9s. the daughter OF Mrs. Emma Pad
dock Telford The groom is an NJ A. OF 81. Johns
College. Cambridge. England. OF the Rev. DR..
John David Evans
Miss Telford has been spending the winter at
Kenilworth Ranch. the guest OF Mr. and Mrs.
Howard L. Underhill. formerly OF this city.
The wedding gown. which has been made here Is
of sheerest japanese silk and was brought directly
to this country by Of the japanese students now
studying at Lake Erie College. II was gift TO tn
New-York tribune., 1902-03-02
who will make their lives far happier than any
foreigner and stranger can"
WOMEN'S HOURS OF WORK.
OPPOSITION TO THE BILL TO ALLOW THOSE
OVER TWENTY ONE TO CHOOSE


THEIR OWN TIME.
Mrs. Susan w. Fitzgerald, manager Of the West
Side Branch of the University Settlement Society
of New-York No 38 King-st, protested yesterday
against the bill permitting twenty-one
to work many hours day they please in
factories Mrs. Fitzgerald said:
This bill passed the Senate yesterday but a vote
having been passed to reconsider ii, II laid
the table II is measure introduced January
II by Senator Marshall, amending the labor law in
restricted at all in the hours they may work in
factories. The present law restricts them ten
hours day and sixty hours a week. In such mat
ters women have TO be protected by law. The
The bad effect of long hours women is much
more marked than IL is on men and ii affects more
directly the health OF the community. Most
factory women over tWenty-one are married women
TO be at work all day are greatly increased by
hour that their time at home is cut down.
have a letter Of very strong protest against this
bill from DR.. Annie Daniel, of the Women's In
Urinary, who gave such valuable testimony before
the Tenement House Commission on the terrible
effects OF bad tenement house conditions. Massa-
chusetts has limited the hours OF work of women
TO hfty-eight hours week since 1894, and New
Jersey limits them to 1ftyfve. The bill under dis
cussion does away with the amendment passed at
Albany in 1888 and puts us just where
Of women have been limited by law the result has
been better health among the women and a greater
efficiency In their work.
This bill has been handled quietly that those
organizat and those interested in the welfare
OF working girls and women. have known nothing
OF IL That manufacturers should be able TO push
such reactonary bill without the whole COM
to object IS most astonishing. The bill Is likely fo
come up again on Monday.
New-York tribune., 1902-03-02
ART METAL WORKERS.
STUDENTS AT PRATT MAKE MANY AR
TISTIC AND USEFUL ARTICLES
ENAMELLING DEPARTMENT
TO BE ADDED.
TO BE ADDED.

The art metal room of the fine arts department
of Pratt Institute, Brooklyn, is a busy place day
and evening. Roaring flames issue from Bunsen
burners and annealing blasts under the manpula-
ton of Young girls; sparks fly in showers from an
wills where slender arms bring sturdy strokes to
heated metal. and from the big pitch pot in one
corner come threatening clouds of steam while a
student witchIike. stirS it to its inky depths In
other quarters vises and lathes are giving forth
rasping sounds that would have driven the oldtime
maiden chills, and on all sides there are
hammerings and filings, mingled with the merry
strain of school gossip.
At OF the benches a girl with pipe between
her lips is blowing the flame into intense heat and
with it soldering the bow of a pair of gold spec
tacles. She explains, with words of wisdom too
learned for the lay intelligence, that a different
process would interfere with the temper of the
gold and adds with some irreevance that there is
too much temper of a different kind in the room at
times, especially when the flame is brought to bear
on the fingers instead of the proper object The
spectacles. she says, are her mothers.
Another girl has rveted a silver monogram of
her own design and make a briarwood pipe and
admits unblushingly that it is for neither her
father nor brother.
On the table by of the students there is a
sheet of monogram note paper printed from a die
designed and made by herself. and she is engraving
through a microscope, a die for a coat OF arms
Both orders. for she, like many another stu
dent, is paying a part OF her expenses by taking
orders for the work done in the school course Inc
enterpriSnS young woman recognizing Ael IA9S'O
gift before beginning her art training set about
learning in what field woman would be most
likely to succeed a breadwinner. She visited
shops of many kinds in this city and found that in
the designing and making of dies for monograms
and crests few if any women here are engaged and
she expects to make die-siuking her profession
An exquisite brass bowl already beaten into
shape is being finished with heavy wrought
handles the pattern of which was adapted from
an old Pompeiian design. Since the bowl is to
serve for 5 well for ornament, and may be
employed for fruit other viands, II will be lined
with silver insure its safety from brass poison
ing. The outside OF the dish and the handles will
be submitted a flame and acid treatment which
will give them an ridescent coloring.
A silver tea strainer Of elaborate design and exc
cution is receiving the finishing touches under the
deft manipulation of still another student. 1t is
to serve as a wedding gift.
One of the members of the class, young woman,
is supplementing a OF training in enamcling
on silver and gold which she pursued in Paris with
a general course in the Pratt Institute Department
OF Fine Arts. of which the art metal work is
branch. She will devote herself TO the enamel
work and will be her own designer. She will open
New-York tribune., 1902-03-02
casting. is done by the women. They cast small

casting, is done by the women. They cast small
silver and larger lead articles.
The art metal room is open nve days ana three
evenings a week to the thirty students who are
taking the About one-third OF the number
are women. Designing and modelling are a part
of the training. Not few members OF the class
intend to be designers. Their object in working
in metals is TO gain knowledge of working prin-
cples that snail enable them 10 produce designs
fitted their purpose and practical in execution
Most If not ALL of the students are taking the en-
tire There few special students
In other cases in the exhibition room are work
in china, leather. wood and textiles done by stu
dents of other branches of the Fine Arts Depart
ment. Some of the pieces are beautiful in the eX-
treme and interesting feature of the display Is
the working designs accompanying each object.
wooden hand botter decorated with carved
blackberry motif is accompanied by water color
of the leaf fruit of the blackberry, detailed
study of fruit leaf and flower and the applied de,
sign. y pen tray of rich dark wood is decorated
with a deep cut tulip design and by IT are the
working drawings in color. Among other articies
similarly shown bellows, frames OF hand mir
rors. paper knives. brackets. book racks ana & deo
signs burlap for wall covering. There are also
charming examples of leather work ana emma
naintlng
New-York tribune., 1902-03-02

victim Of the cadet system" Saw the girl there
to vicious designs Took her to St. Barnabas
House, where she will be safe and whence will
trial is over. and afterward I will care for her
work. Then. summoned by prison ward officer to
Bellevue Hospital. to young girl just brought
willing to talk until the nurse explained Who
was, when she readily confded all her griefs 10
ised to stand by her in court when tried and to
Then home. at p. m, to find subpoena server
waiting with two subponas for me to serve on two
months before, agreeing to produce them in court
dned h ae Went Won6 to @ 's @ pSt g
256ceS and 40 TO ~ eed b served % the
and returned home. my days work done.
HOW THE WORK BEGAN.
THE work found Mrs. Foster not Mrs Foster the
work" said friend of hers yesterday. 1t began
about fourteen years ago. during the lifetime of
her husband, lawyer, whom she had aided oc-
casionally in his work. Her laundress came to her
one morning with a pitful story of her young
brothers arrest for theft of which he was inno-
cent Mrs Foster looked carefully into the circurn-
stances. convinced of the truth of the woman's
story and went at once to the court and asked to
see the justice who knew her. He heard her version
OF the case, and as result of her intercesson the
boy was acquitted. While sitting the Justice she
asked about girl in the courtroom who was ween-
ing. The justice explained the case, admitted that
he was bafied. and asked Mrs Foster to talk with
the girl She did So and requested the privilege of
investigating the case further. The justice con-
sented and remanded the girl until Mrs Foster
could be heard from. When her report was pre-
sented 1t was clear that the poor girl was more
wisely dealt with than could have been possible
under ordinary circumstances. From that time
when the justice was especially puzzled with the
cases of people whom he thought 1t might be possi-
BILE TO help upward he sent for Mrs. Foster After
her husbands death. when she devoted herself TO
the work. many other justices do the same
thing. For many years it has not been an infre
Quent occurrence for the presiding justice in
New-York tribune., 1902-03-02
THE DREAM VERSUS THE DEED.
LEAGUE FOR POLITICAL EDUCATION HEARS
ABOUT THE LITERARY MANS UTOPIA

This century will not close before every child
has in addition literary training the completed
discipline of and industrial activity which may
lessen still further the gulf between the dream
and the deed" So predicted John Graham Brooks
in a lecture the Utopia of the Literary Man"
before the League for Political Education. in the
Berkeley Lyceum yesterday Mr.. Brooke said in
part:
TolStoy's excessive individualiSm ranks him
clearly among the phiosophic anarchists. II the
man of letters is given to brooding the pro-
founder inner problems Of life his Utopia is likely
to take extreme indvidualiStic form. If. the
other hand. the ina asination Is moved by external
events, we have Socialtstic Utopia like those OF
Bellamy Blatchford, Hcrtzka and Howells. The
poet-crattsman. William Morris. marks change in
this classification One will have il that he is
archist, others that he is socialist. His Utopia.
News from Nowhere is the work of extreme in
dividualism, classifying him fairly among the
archiSts. Many of his lectures socialistic. Why
Is this man of letters difficult to manage? 1t is
primarily because he Is a working artist. He is a
good carpenter dyer. printer designer. and you
cannot have the working artist his best without
a passion for ndividualiSm. The very nature OF
this work demands the freedom and the initiative
of an unhampered personality. Morris working
artist is impatient of restrictions as IbSen or
Hawthorne. The great lesson from Morris's life is
that the education which adds beauty industry
unifes ideals that seem to conflict. II becomes a
binder much as religion science at its
highest.
New-York tribune., 1902-03-02

bride. also the exquisite renaissance lscs
yoke and shoulder straps which used 'be
bodice. The skirt has four longitudinal tuckn- 20
the knees. from which IT flows with the t-a4a-
Ruchngs OF Malines finish the bottom OF the -'uft
and the elbow sleeves. a veil and natural OrSlCe
blossoms will complete the costume It Is expsCte1
that the yellow poppies. which by the middle OF
March turn the desert into a veritable field o.
cloth OF gold. will be on schedule time, and be
in conjunction with the palms ard feathery peprt
70 decorate the artistic bungalow.
The ceremony will take place at Sunset. Chapla
Winfield Scott. L. s A. assisted by the Rev La
ley McAfee. OF Phoenix. officiating
New-York tribune., 1902-03-02

holds the metal securely. Then the design is
traced the sheet and the beating and chasing
done alternate sides, the bed being warmed
and the material reversed often before the
petion of the work.
Among other things shown were hair ornaments,
comb tops, brass bowls. picture frames, trays and
the like. A pair OF ornamental brass bands
made by member OF the wood carving class for
big chest which she is finishing there An iron
key plate is the work of student OF the
class and was also made for chest. A valuable
silver fruit dish has been finished during the year.
The entire work, with the exception OF certain
New-York tribune., 1902-03-02

ninth anniversary OF the Chaplin Home for ths
Aged and Inhrm. No Isl East Sixty-sixth-st
The celebration Is TO be held on Tuesday March
4. from to 10 p m There will be addresses BY
prominent ministers. and sale OF fancy and USE
full articles will be held. Refreshments and a
supper have been arranged for.
New-York tribune., 1902-03-02
SPECIAL REDUCTION IN GOWNS.

.. HAAS BROS. Ladies' Tailors. No Sao
Fifth-ave., opposite the Waldorf-AstOria Hotel.
offering tailor made costumes to order. OF
imported material. silk lined throughout. for
only $40 The offer is made before the opening
of the season, TO keep their force at work.
Styles for spring wear are now on exhibition
The offer should not be neglected by aAy who
wish tailored gowns.
New-York tribune., 1902-03-02
HOrSE BrILr OF BrTTONS-

house built OF buttons is the latest thing III
architecture and certain French musical celeb
rity is building il. The walls. the ceilings rhs
doors the exterior and the interior are all Orna-
mented with buttons OF every description. Every
country has been ransaCked. and curious