New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1902-07-27
SURPLICE EFFECTS.
PARTISAN DRESSMAKERS TRYING TO
SUBSTITUTE THESE FOR THE
BOLERO AND JACKET.

Paris. July ls.
Oressmakers are trying with Indifferent success
70 get away from the jacket front and bolero effects
that have prevailed long and that have Of late
been slightly out Of favor. Bodies are blouse
like and need g. simple style of trimming. Large
collars popular than ever, If that is pos
sible. and longer and more like capes over the
shoulders But they are not, however, universally
becoming Surplice effects seem to be coming in
again. completed by some fancy chemisette. Stole
effects. too. SEEN the pieces from the shoulders
meeting. as a rule. make single panel down
the front OF the skirt.
Passementerie trimmings grow more pronounced
as the season advances, and will undoubtedly be
feature of the autumn models. A trimming OF
black silk grapes in a raised pattern Is used on
bands Of art guipure a gown Of dull blue can
vas cloth. This trimming is placed in three deep
bands on the skirt, forms the lower part 10 the
big pulled and trims the collar. which fails
over the shoulders in deep points There Is cravat
of black mousseline de sole tying loosely about
she choker and falling in pleated ends.
CHEMIsETTE EFFECTS.
There are good many chemiscttc effects besides
those used with surplice fronts A style Of blouse
seen good deal closes a few inches below
the choker with a small attached or turnover col
lar and perhaps a cravat falling IN loose ends.
This leaves a diamond shaped opening for a chemi-
settle and choker. a gown Of red wolfe has col
lar made of stripes OF red velvet sewed TO white
silk living over a deep collar Of white lace. which
blouse The chenisette and choker are made Of
softly draped cream coored mousseline de sole The
sleeves grow very large at the elbows. where they
are draped and turned up with big cuffs OF white
silk striped with lines of red velvet, and under
meath are close nousquetaire sleeves OF mousseline
de sole. The skirt is shirred about the hips. and
has three raised rows Of shirrings about foot
above the hem
soutache all about the bottom Of the skirt. the pat
Tern running up the back. There is stole Of wool
lace delicate and light TO pattern and ap-
riiqued with white silk flowers. that falls down the
front Of the skirt soft cravat and waistoand are
made Of pale blue silk
A novel sleeve flares at the elbow and Is
Surred I'D a trihe with silk ornament on the IN
SIDE of the arm, TO show the lining OK biack ana
white striped silk This makes the sleeve end two
inches above the elbow the inside OF the arm
and slope off in rounded point on the outside.
Under this two more sleeves, shaped and
srinrned 10 match and deep ruffie Of lace. These
triple sleeves are pretty, and the same idea may
be carried in a triple collar.
GREAT ATTENTION TO SLEEVES.
Close half way 10 the elbow and completed by
Auee puff gathered into a wristband is popular
summer sleeve. Pretty. indeed. is an unlined
sleeve of mousseIine de sole shirred closely almost
10 the elbow. and then making big Puffs gathered
into little pointed wristband Of black lace tnat
half covers the hand ike mitaine- Big flowing
sleeves completed by close lace undersleeves are
used on elaborate toilets odd and becoming Is
full sleeve of mousseline de sole halI covered with
lace which holds the sleeve close 10 the inside Of
the arm for its entire length and arranges IL in
graceful drapery the outside
A gown OF white mohair is made with one OF the
new bo1 uleated skirts. the round, tubelike peats
The sleeves are pleated in the same way and are
attached to a close cuff six seven inches deep
The upper edge OF this cuff is encircled by scarf
of dotted blue and white foulard. tying with knot
and two little pointed ends on the outside or the
arm There is a soft belt of foulard, tying on one
lace collar The blouse is also gathered into round
pleats. This costume is a new model sent out by a
Very effective is gown OF white muslin. with
10 the knees and the deep collar on the blouse are
Of white lace trimmed with pattern OF flowers ana
Dow kn n $3.50 e4n 9o Va
An evening gown OF white mousseline de sole has
and skirt TO the hounce The honnee ana d a DEEP
black chenille The stole is cut out deep In 'front.' 10
show rue Of white lace whiGn passes q the sb tf
ruf1ed sleeves. This lace is not enoroidereo' Two
over the shoulders. and there f. bunch OF black
velvet side. The belt Is OF Dlack VelVet
DIRECToIRE sCARFs FOR WINTER.
An original and pretty black frock has skirt or
rnousseline de sole trimmed with four founces of
black ChantiIy put in apron fashion making
deep rounded points in front The bodice Of the
lace is partly covered by little peated figure OF
Enousseline de sole trimmed with bertha OF lace.
BLACK and white is modish combined In the pop
uar Directore scarfs. one OF Whlte lace Is
9s obSodered with back passementerie drops.
e scarf Is slightly adjusted In the back by means
OF little cluster OF black velvet boMs ms m MAKES
II Al prettily the shoulders These scarfs are
not ex pected 10 disappear with the warm weather
Thev viii be worn all winter In velvet and fur, ana
those OF ostrich feathers are TOO becoming 10 De
discarded for sable.
New designs shirtwaists are continually COM
ing out. The manufacturers OF nigh priced DIouses
say they have orders for heaVy hhen anu coIt1 On
waists for autumn. These garments are 10 De
and "lailored' as posslDe. "A nsaVi cot-
ton embroidery Is feature OF many OF the heasy
Etraps shoulders emDroloereo III req COT
ton and finished each by bunch of red passemen-
terie drops. blouse OF heAEy guy hoT Nm tb
shoulders is effective Attached coIiar ana CUTS
OF white linen worn with this 1hers Is q ne"
form OF turnover linen collar, deep ana Dapylsh IN
appearance Ii IS not high about the neck, and mas
rather a negligee look a..
Gray seems 10 be returning 10 favor Little OF II
shades were worn 10 death A graceful gown OF
gray Grape mixed SILK ana ~ool laD sh las .
band OF Irish point over loot oeeP On .iae i
OF the skirt This lace Is trimmed with several
Of narrow gray velvet. Over the shoulders
IS deep lace collar almost a cape, trimmed with
several OF velvet. each row nnlshed by httle
gray SIX nassenenterte tasseI. The fun sleeves
have panel of lace down the OUTSIDE or the arm
held by the same little tassels -. -. - -.
gowns, he thin and summertime ones A pretty
frock OF white point desprit mounted over pale Dine
oesselne de sole. the mousselihe GoVeil.s se s
ornarnents. These make a trimming OF ornaments
and loops that almost cover the snort Sleeves ana
he front Of the bodice
VOGUE OF SILK LAcES
Silk laces handsome and look well now on
Thin materials, although IL is said that they VIII
De used later with the autumn ana winter
Fahxscs. A Of white mousseline de sole has
tho skirt built In three parts trimmed with Dor
t4DGSuk guipprex-The u surpnce eject on