The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-02-16

course you understand that the hats
Of this season are largely experimental
| and the real spring and summer fash
ions are determined by the success with
which certain Of the new designs are
received.
"Ah, mademoiselle, tres chic, 1 have
My best design. 1t suit exactly the
CHRIS the willy rnilnner.
Mademoiselle bushes, her mother bri-
dies with pleased vanity, and the Rat
is tried on. 1t Is a concoction of white
tulle, suitable for evening wear 1t is
yelled with straw-colored net embroider-
ed in seqUins of the same color. An
underbrim roll of black velvet and a
velvet roll about the crown furnish the
touch Of contrast, while an immensely
long and handsome white ostrich plume
springs from a draping of net and chiffon
at the upturned side of the hat.
The hat does not look bad upon the
young woman, and the milliner assures
her that the ostrich plume is gem, that
no more perfect one is to be had in the
French capital, and that the smart hats
of the Riviera season are notable for the
beauty of the plumage. 1t is enough for
the Americans. The hat is sold.
Then the willy milliner turns her at
tention to the mother. Middle-aged
American and English women are the
bane of the French designer. The
French woman finds the descent to Aver
nus much easier than that to old age
in fact she quite declines to make It,
and consequently the French milliner
has no old countrywomen to cater to,
although hosts OF the old young ones.
The foreign woman who is inclined to re-
spect the advancing years is therefore
compelled to accept either a grand
motherly head covering, such as Paris
iennes scorn to don until the relentless
approach of four-seore ard decrepti-
tude, or else focIishly juvenile affair
of chiffons and laces tinted in all the
colors of the rainbow.
For the elderly American madame
brought out sHdttish-looking hat of
black straw and chiffon. The brim was
only moderately wide, but the hat was
turned up at the left side, and faced with
velvet, with two artificial jewels to hold
it in position. Draped over the top of
the hat and hanging in flowing folds be-
hind was rich veil of chantilly. The
lace made the hat costly, and, although
1t had nothing but it's sober shade to
recommend it to.the staid, grandmother
~ looking customer, she reluctantly &C
cepted it, no doubt to regret her folly in
soberer moments.
From my quiet corner I saw a half
dozen other women fitted out for the olive
groves and turquoise skies of summary
ATTITUDES. Pink seemed favored shade.
1t was the color selected by very pref
tN German lady, who said she wished to
wear the hat at Monte Carlo. Crushed
straw was built into the frame, and it
was garnished with a tiny wilderness of
creamy elder blossoms, knotted with
bows of narrow black velvet ribbon, The
brim was much indented, and the crown
was very low. but there was more than
little tilt to the side, and no underbrim
trimming
Chiffon hats have not seen the end Of
their day, for some of the most eagerly
bought up millinery is made of the fine
ly tucked material Cream chiffon laid
in undulating lines over a wire frame
made a handsome model hat whose only
trimming was a great white ostrich plume
clasped by a pearly set with brilliants.
This turban-shaped toque, / noticed, was
fitted to a roundfaced, chubby woman.
A white tulle hat, with the turned-up
brim encircled by bands of black chenille,
made very pretty effect on the blonde
head of a little blue-eyed Frenchwoman.
In the center of the front a tuft of os-
prey plumes arose from an airily arrang-
ed twist of white tulle.
OF the wide trimmed hats, a handsome
specimen was in corn-colored fancy
straw, with bands of dark brown velvet
and circlets of tiny roses. The hat was
made with simulated double brim.
An oddly was the hat of fine flexible
straw In cream color appliqued with de-
signs in guipure and with a black plume
underbrim trimming. A band of black
velvet caught in the soft, low. irregular
crown. and couple OF jeweled pins COM
pleted the hat
Three-cornered hats have fewer repre-
sentatives in straw than In felt. They
are scarcely so becoming as the wider
trimmed creations, which cast a becoming
shadow on the features
A great deal of lace will be used on
spring hats and also many flowers, but
these viii be larger and more perfect in
shape than anything heretofore found in
the milliners' showcases. Delicate shades
are most suitable for furnishings, al
though poppy leaf, the several shades of
pale green and blue and geranium red
will be universally worn.
Pompadour effects are striven for. and
as these came In wIde-rimrned hats.
trimmed with plumes and lowered rib
bons. 1t IS quite obvious that they win
i have the preference with tbs younger
generation when the present ponpa6our