The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1902-09-14

| that there is absolutely no fulness over
the hips. the plaits being formed just
below that point and being shallow in
the extreme, while they acquire both
depth and width as they approach the
floor. The coat is blouse. that is box
plated at both front and back and
slightly open at the neck, where it is
finished with a big collar Of white satin
faced cloth embroidered with black. The
sleeves are double. Above the elbows
they are nearly snug, but at that point
they are enlarged and finished with roll
over cuffs of the white cloth. while be-
low them fall fun bishop puffs of plain
black cloth with a single band Of white
cloth, cut in waved outline and finished
with three tiny bands OF black set on
each edge. midway Of each. Beneath
the coat is worn a bodice of white chit
fon with yoke of cream lace which last
is visible at the open neck of the blouse.
Later. when warmth becomes a need, q
soft fluffy boa of feathers will be worn
over the shoulders and about the throat.
For visiting. receptions and all func-
tons attended in carriages long coats
of delicately-coiored cloths are correct
and VIII be much seen They are loose,
ample, with big sleeves; they allow of
slipping on and Off with ease, and i'll
every way satisfactory, both 10 the
wearer and the locker on. Their long.
graceful sweeping lines are fascinating
10 look upon, while their form makes
them ideally comfortable at the same
time. AS a rule they are lined with
white SILK, although pale, i3arnonizing
tlnts are used. Later the same designs
in white VIII serve for wraps worn en-
route to opera and balls, and it is ru-
1nored that with them will be seen err
mine and other white furs, but il is far
too early to speak either with authority
or interest of furs. either for evening
or daytime wear. 1t is true that ermine
Sloles and capeS have been worn over
but because the season has been an IN
usual one and allowed abnormal condi-
lions does not prove furs to be an ac-
ceptabe topic in bright, sunshiny Sep
tember weather. a bit later l will dis
cuss them at length Just now what in
terests US most are those things likely
to be needed before many weeks, and as
among them l know of nothing more
sure of welcome than the new shirt
waists. I VIII tell YOU of those, then
cease Tor the week.
The new flannel ones have appeared
and are nice. So soft, SO pl.apie, so
delicate the name seems almost mis-
homer In addition TO the familiar light.
weight French sort are delicate BASKET
weares both plain and striped crepe fan
rels and finest soitest pam ones with
embroidery OF many sorts Later, no
doubt, We will see waist clothes OF many
weights and varieties and both henrietta
and albatrosS in new colorS and designs
but for the present these new han!ie!s
FL the zee and s 5a8T w mics mssd
warm rich red, lovely new greens ana
some exquisite neutral tones, grays. tans,
castors, that are simply perfect IN tone
The waists shown by a leading designer,
who is held an authority. are Simple in
cut and make as shiTt-waisls should be
and uniformly incinde the regulation
last vary from two to two and a half
inches in width. Prevailing sp:es IN tali-
ored waists, are closed at the front, put
the emergencies OF embroidered materials
have brought about some few that are
buttoned inTisibly at the back Plain ma
terials are seen with variousiy tucked
backs, but all-over eTnbroideIles Eare made
most tasteful model shows a small con-
Nentional figure in blue and black on white
and is made with three tucks at each SIDE
Of the neck and plain back Another
shows a tiny flower on white blue green.
black and tan and is made UP in much
the same way. Plain colors show the
same tucks or plaits but backs that are
place of being plain. Some Of the hand
Soonest of al are the waists showing en-
broidered fronts only, the embroidery be-
ing worked to. suit the requirements OF
the waist. and include plain backs that
are tucked in one way or another. When
the design allows they close at the front
through a regulation box plait, otherwise
the closing is a the back beneath j CEN
trail tuck. In the former case the tucks
are some tiny arranged in groups. some
TO give the effect of box plaits extending
across the entire back. but where the
closing is TO be concealed the groups are
preferred. Buttons are of white pearl
for the more delicate coiors, gilt for the
darker ones and are about as big as
ten-cent piece, while those on the sleeves
match but are smaller. The embroidered
effects are new ana exceedingly hand
some while eminently well suited to their
use, Many of the plain colors are eN-
quisite and include a variety OF shades.
The newer basket weayes and crepe fan
nels are charming and VIII add material
~ to. the comfort as well as the beauty
of the season to come. They are lighter
than flannel of the accepted sort. yet re-
tain much OF its quality and offer a wide
range of shades and combinations Yer
teal stripes are always becoming. The
pale blues, pastel p!nks and greens and
rich reds on white are q pleasure to look
upon and are liable to be much seen. AS
matter Of course the waists must fit
well. We hear much talk OF the sim
plicity of shirt-waists, but, in common
CIV, No