Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-10-14
Table and Kitchen.
Cooking an Old Fowl and Doing It
Successfully.

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Although turkey is in season and spring
! chicken has certainly had its day, there
| are many housewives who make it a rule
| not to serve turkey until it can be offered
up the festive board on the nations holt
day. During this between times" one may
| utilize to advantage that common domestic
fowl known as 1.-The old hem and thus pre-
| serve our appetites zest for a rare and
| juicy slice of Thanksgiving turkey.
In this country chicken is the name al
most universally applied to fowls of all
ages, this practice even extending to some
of the wild species, such as prairie chick
ems.
Until they are four months old the term
chicken may rightfully be applied to the
female chick, then II becomes a pullet I'M
| til it begins to lay, when it is called a hen.
But in the market parlance they are more
commonly known as broilers, roasters and
stewing chickens or even in broader
classification as spring chickens and fowl.
But In any stage Of its existence. in the
hands of skilled cook, well-fattened and
tender fowl is to the cook what the canvas
is to the painter, and always handy and
even acceptable to family and guest.
In no animal does age work such a
change in regard to the quality of flesh as
in the domestic fowl. In the earliest stages
OF their existence male and female are
equally tender and toothsome, but as time
overtakes them it is the male bird whose
flesh toughens first; indeed, at the end of
the year its flesh is best converted into
soup. stock and finely minced dishes. On
the other hand. at the same age. the hen,
although as substantial is not callous to
the insinuations of the carving knife. How
ever. We must except capons. as the rule
respecting age, does not hold good with
them, for like wine he seems to improve
and grow almost too mellow with age. He
is tender a chick, his juices do not dry
up, and even at the age of three years
there is scarcely to be found a more de-
licious animal than a well-fed NATURALLY
fed and not crammed). well-dressed capon
with the additional advantage of having
gained his proper chicken flavor.
Selecting and Buying.
The fine flavor nature has given the birds
coming under the name of poultry may
easily be destroyed by improper methods
of raising, feeding, preparing for the mar
ket or dressing. The chickens packed in
barrels and boxes for long transportation
suffer damage of flavor, whether drawn or
not before packing; but of the two evils, it
is considered the least to have them packed
without being drawn for if once they are
opened they become sour all the way
through in a very short time If not used al
once.
While fowls purchased near the source OF
supply should be drawn to prevent their
flesh becoming tainted from the putrefactive
changes which follows soon after killing
those which are supplied to markets from
long distances are Immediately frozen or
chilled after killing and kept in this state
| until sold and thus the Objectionable change
presumably arrested. These should be
drawn Immediately after they are brought
home from the market; and great care
must be taken in selecting these In order
to get those free from disease. The breast
of all birds should be full and plump Those
n nprfa t1y, hen thy-n Pa11
at the breast while the bone protrudes and
feels sharp. Small boned and short-legged
poultry are likely to excel the contrary sort
In delicacy of color, flavor and fineness OF
flesh Reject the Stall-fed poultry or those
deprived of their natural pursuits and exer-
else and regularly stuffed" in order to
increase their market value by weight This
process may make handsome looking bird
and one that will weigh enough to satisfy
those buyers who judge only by appear
ance. If the chicken is over a year old
the cartilage at end of breast bone has
hardened into bone and Is no longer flexible
as with the young bird. These must only
be used for purposes for which fowl serve.
Plnfeathers Indicate a young bird, on the
fowls there are long hairs, the legs have
sharper scales and necks are longer and
thin; but the flesh should be firm and a
clear color. Drypicked chickens are much
finer than those scalded. and are easily dis
tingulshed from the latter which have shiny
and moist skins. A aforementioned natu-
lohy ldltcHeu CiliCheN Will nave acquired
Just the proper amount of fat under the
skin to protect the lean meat, keeping It
tender, but not sufficient quantity to give 1t
fatty degeneration is often the case
with the Gagged and stuffed bird
The flesh of poultry is not nearly so st,mu-
la ting Is beef. The flesh of the young fowl
or chicken is more delicate and easier to
digest than other animal foods and II is
therefore. recommended fit meat for
the afling, or those whose stomachs are
naturally weak
When preparing chickens for cooking re-
member that the skin requires very thor
ough cleansing, a small stiff brush should
be used to scrub 1t well, but II the chicken
Is cooked soon after killing and properly
drawn, there should be no more necessity
for washing the inside than there Is for
washing a beefsteak
Braised Chicken.
When fowl is too old to roast this man
ner of cooking 1t will render 1t good and
tender and 1t will have the same appear
ance as a roasted bird.
Prepare and truss in good shape as for
roasting. If you do not possess a brazing
pan or two roasting pans that will fit close