Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1902-09-18

seldom that more than two stones are seen
in one gown and the trimmings CORE pond
with the figures scattered over the usually
lighter shade background.
For instance a frock of ecru tan with a
slightly reddish tint is spotted with
autumn leaf brown figures. The skirt Is
built with medium sized plaits at the back
and there are inverted plaits at each side
of the front.
The vest of the Jackets is composed of
exquisite cream lace striped hpanne and
the Jacket bears inverted paits at both
the front and back.
Tho popular postllion effect is shown I'm
the sleeve, which is held above the wrist
by two large military buttons.
Completing the costume is a fiat spre adj
ing picture hat of ecru panne velvet with
crown Of autumn ueaves finished at the
beck with a rosette of liberty satin rib
bon.
OF course the cost of such gowns makes
it impossible for the woman whose dress
allowance is limited to n few dollars for an
entire seasons supply, but there are much
less expensive fabrics duplicating the same
effect which may be made up very arts
tically If one has the patience to execute
the various little details shown in the ORR
ginai design.
After all there is not so much elaboration
upon the new seasons gown as there is
detail. 1t is the small things that count
in time as we'll as cost, but they really
constitute the success OF a gown and must
be added If one would be strictly a la
mode.
Present indications lead to the belief that
this autumn will be an exceptionally mild
one and for that reason it will be late be
fore wraps are donned. However many
smart little jackets will be worn and
brown. black, dull green, purple-blue and
red will be much in vogue. one delightful
little basque Jacket carried out in Duchess
OF Marlborough green--a soft dark tone az
fected by our little American Duchess dur
ing her recent visit here-boasts very full
blouse which opens over vest and hand
painted lace Black silk frogs are set on
either side Of the vest on the material and
form a drapery of silk cords across the
front.
Painted lace is one of the extravagancies
Of the season, but it will be worn more
than is generally imagined because there
are so many women of artistic talent who
can design these patterns for themselves
with little expense. Embroidered laces are
also de rigeur. but only the expense var
ietes are treated to this form of decora-
ton.
Women who feel that they cannot afford
the luxurious velvet gown may be consol-
ed by using the fabric as a trimming. A
pretty way in which it may be used is
shown in rich petuna cloth. the ski t
being trimmed just below the knees with
three tucks of velvet to correspond, set
on loosely and not stitched down At the
front the tucks are very narrow, but grad
uate wider behind, while on the hips is a
simulated rounded basque of the same
trimming.
The bodice is pouched over a narrow
waist band and has a small rolled collar
and cuffs of velvet.
The greatest variety is shown in sleeves.
but the voluminous effect below the elbow
is apparent in all. This effect, however,
Is invariably graceful. Tucks, appliQues
and various little deceptions employed to
dispose of any fullness are all placed at the
top of the sleeve and between the elbow
and the wrist there is simply substantial
eXpanse of the dress material which enve-
opes an undercuff of some diaphanous
fabric.
The short-necked sisterhood will rejoice
in the fact that collars are all lower than
worn for the past few years and are finish
ed OFF with narrow lace for such a garna-
ture always lends to the toilette dainty
air After all there Is no real beauty In
the three story basement collars" as one
cynical man described one of the summer
chokers 1t certainly robs the neck of
grace and gives one a strained, uneasy APP
pearance.
Glace taffeta will shape popular favor
with velvet until late in the season. II il
almost always lace trimmed and generally
coat IL cut with fronts and backs only and
shaped and fitted by means of under-arm
and shoulder seams. The skirt IL laid in
tiny tucks or 1t may be plated all around
the figure. Under the coat a fancy waist
is worn and the coat is finished with deep
cream collar of renaissance or duchess
braid
The fashionable hat Of autumn will not
be worn far from the face yet 1t will be
provided for in the long sleeves. At the
most the fashionable glove will not show
more than two buttons, and many have
only one. Colored kids are favorable for
the street wear, but for dressier occasions
Dame Fashion demands the suede En-
rlish red, goblin blue, green, russell and
Damson are the popular shades.
The dantiest craVat of the moment IL tho
shape able or avoCat, but this coils easily
as ii Is always carried out in white. OF
far better service are the foulard scarps,
for these wear well. come in fashionable
colorings and are so pliable that they may
be arranged into any of the prevailing
modes.
There is no taste. scarcely, that has not
been appealed to in the design OF autumn
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