The Jersey City news., 1902-04-28

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There are some new and exceedingly
pretty designs in lingerie to fascinate the
feminine eye this spring, and there are
some quaint old style designs that carry
au~ graudmothers back to their rosebud
days.
The two most distinct styles of the new
undergo rnents are intended to attune
themselves to the necessities of the outer
parmen+s. and are therefore modelled upon
fhe very divergent lines of the princess
ard eyrnire models. One is called upon,
however, before proceeding further to ex-
plafn that her eehemise is not to be
worn next to the skin, as our grand
mothers used the original garment 1t
being cut to fit over the corset and worn
next to the dress bodice. Let 1t not be
imagined that the restoration of the
chem;se marks an era of simplicity in un-
,5arVear. for never were the styles more
elaborate nor were the lace embroidery
and ribbon used more profusely than they
are this year If anything, miladis under
wear is more ornate than what is worn
over it. Colors. except in rare instances,
have been taoooed, except for the ribbons
used in trimming, and everything else
new shown is in dazzling and Immaculate
white The fit and finish are made mat
,ers of the most consummate study.
An empire model garment rejecting
every new indication has a slightly
bloused bodice. formed in eurving rows
of finest tuekings, alternating with lace,
and clasped high beneath the arms with
lace. through which ribbon is run.
large ribbon bow placed upon the bust,
holds the garment in place upon the
shoulders. panel of tuckings and lace
extends down either side of the skirt, the
hem being a rich fiounee arrangement Of
the same effects.
Another garment in princesse shape,
even more elaborat te. has a detached cor
set cover of solid, fine tucked muslin, as
richly trimmed as dress waist, with
elaborate lace insertions. 1t is fitted close
" and buttoned invlsibly down the frent,
fastening with ribbons over the shoul-
eere. The reason given for the cover be-
ing separate is that it admits of a deeper
woke at the longest point in front, so that
it slopes to a point and fits the hips per-
feot.y. The skirt proper consisting of
Iengthwise tuckings with unconaned full
ness a few inches down, falls from this
yoke and is finished with final founce
at the hem comprised of bands of lace in
esrtions
The princesse style provides some equal
ly graceful elaborations. One of these
models fits the figure closely all around
and buttons straight down the centre at
the front. The corsage portion, from the
SHOULDER to we'll below the waist, is form
ed of insertions Of lace, set in vertically,
and of graduated lengths. This model is
cut to a sharp point, both front and back.
fine lace and muslin tuckings running in
a kind of surpiice effect to a finish of
decoIletage The latter is held in place
By ribbons. which also perform similar
service at the shoulders, the lace form-
ing dainty frill a fiounce at the hem
Of the skirt is formed Of horizontal rows
of fine tuckings. varied with lace.
broad ribbon used by way Of heading
at the top, is run through ladder work.
being tied at intervals into effective bows.
Another novelty in princesse style is
fieht-htting garment in bolero effect A
fchu of lawn and lace is draDed around
the bust and knotted in front. Effective
Iengthwise strippings extend down the
figure Of lace, fastening to the front.
Deep fiounces trimmed with lace, and
edgings at the top of ribbon run with lace
which is IN turn headed with fantastic
insertion designs, cover up almost all of
the plain skirt.
A pretty petticoat is in white lawn
with enrre deux of lace, and tucked dou-
BILE ruffle edged with lace. Another is in
pink figured taffeta. with diamonds Of
white embroidered batiste and black ve.-
vet ribbon trimmings.
A delicate effect is shown in pale yell
low petticoat of silk with scarf of deeper
yellow chiffon. A flight of butterflies is
embroidered over the satine. the dain's
garment being finished with lace frill
A pretty separate corset cover is made
of tabs bordered in pink parcale and
stitched pink ribbon. Another is finishci
In white daisies, with white embroidery
applications run through with ribbon Az
other, especially adapted for evening
dress, is of embroidery, cut well down
from the shoulder and made with tiny
puffed sleeves. The aounces of white
skirts are set on with bands of fine en-
broidered beading. an inch or an inch and
a half wide, through which the indispen-
sable wash ribbons are threaded.
As in all the colors so it is with while
only silk Of the softest finish now being
permissible for the fashionable pett,coar
There must be no artificial stiffness about
the skirt Starch must be used most eau
tfousiy when the material is not SILK.
fare at foot may not be obtained either
By crinoline or any conspicuous s--ffen-
ing but by the fulness of everything and
The liberal quantity Of material,
The new petticoats are soft and snug
fitting at the hips and down the SIDES
faring widely from the knees down. If
one has overskirts made at home they
should not be cut by any of the old fash
oned patterns. as these were too full at
the sides. The new skirt has no fulness
across the front of the body. for, if the
petticoat be full at the sides it. spoils the
hang of the garment. The fit at the hips
mast be perfect.
Until deep into the spring and until not
weather renders the habit impossible. we
shall wear a great deal of flannel in shirt
waists ard in other garments. It is irre-
sssibIc TO touch and exclaim over the
charming heaps Of soft stuff at the fan
mel counter. from the imported wash fan.
mel to the very exquisitely embroidered
robes that are folded in boxes and sug-
esst for negligees The finest and light
est French flannel is used for some OF
t4ese and the most costly handwork Is
tav.sheG on ,Aeir decoration; their cost
Il ua turally in proportion with their high