Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-10-24
STYLES IN MEMS DRESS
THE FIRST SHowINGS OF THE
TOWN SEASON.
Something New in Great Coats-Many
Changes in Evening Dress
Accessories.
From the Haberdashcr.

From the Haberdasher.
With the coming of October fashions can
be said TO be firmly fixed for the season.
Enough is known at this date to encourage
one to give a description Of the generalities
of the mode. and in many instances TO give
specific details When conservatism is the
ruling spirit one finds little out of the or
binary course of evolution. Here exclusive
ness gives birth. Endorsement, life and pop
ularity death to fashions. Last year it was
raglans. year before we had long box
coats, and this year We will take up the
paddocks.
| think the best great coat for next WIN
ter. the one that will be accepted as the
best for most formal wear, Will be made OF
lambswool, cut very loose and long, with q
plain fly front and the lapels faced TO the
edges with silk. The SHE pockets Will nave
flaps and be cut on the slant TINS is pig
coat and can be put on or taken OH easliy.
1t is being recommended for evening dress
as well as for wear over the frock coat.
The paddock waiStiine coat VIII also
be made in lambswool for evening dress, put
it's proper sphere is that of a day coat
Made in beavers or in VenetianS IL makes
splendid driving coat or morning coat
The covert coat will be worn, as usual
1t will be made in the covert cloths OF tan
shades, with strap seams, deep vents, ano
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coat of this type should be very easy anu
comfortable as they designed strictly
for riding or for neglige or business wear.
1t is the ideal coat for the man who mas
much walking to do, and that accounts
much for its great popularity
The great plaid listers In shetlands ana III
tweeds will be brought out again. This coat
is cut double breasted and is very 1ull ooth
in the back and front. There Is hali pert
in the back and the pockets nave iaise
flaps. Some of the cloths are heatherike
mixtures ana others show indiStinct plalds
The coat is for very cold weather, for wear
about the country and Tor travelling, ~
was very much worn last year as pusi-
ness coat during the coolest days, ana 1t
seemed to fill the bill quite acceptably.
Low Cut Openings.
In Jackets as we'll as in getaways ana
frocks the most noticeable departure lies IN
the low cut of the openings. The jackets
are longer and fuller, and the double
breasted style will be much more popular
than last year. These coats close with three
buttons Frocks will show but little change.
They will fit snugly above the waist, and
the skirts will be quite full. The three
buttoned type is still the favorite.
There is no doubt in my mind put wnat
the cutting lower of waistcoat and coat
openings has had great deal to do with
the increase in the popularity OF wnlte
shirts In the best trade. A loW-cut waist
coat and a highly colored shirt do not form
a very pleasing combination. one can reau-
lily understand that the display of so much
color is hardly in keeping with good taste.
This winter white shirts Will always pe
worn with tail coats, while the coloreo shlrt
will be worn with jackets.
For evening wear the waistcoats Will %
of washable linen or marseilles, with three
buttons of pearl or covered with the same
material as the waistcoat. the walstcoat
for the frock coat viii De of pique or mar
settles. and will close with four buttons.
The fancy washable waistcoats will be In
very neat patterns and will be worn with
Jacket suits.
The Outing Realm.
In the outing realm there is something to
talk about. The tweed and shetland ana
other rough worsteds as well as the manner
trousers have proven a failure on the goii
field, and many orders have been placed re-
Gently for Knockers. The new Knockers are
made of the rough worsted fabrics In lnols-
tinct plaids, with deep box-cloth GUNS IN
faWn or tan With these heavy golf stock
ings of a solid color are worn. These should
harmonic as closely as possible with the
dominant color in the Knockers, or else be
of a good contrasting color.
The haberdashery for evening wear mas
undergone much more radical changes than
the clothing The ties are now but very
slightly graduated, showing a broad band
almost to the back, where there Is snens
scoop These ties run from one and half
to one and three-quarter inches in width
and from thrty-two to thirty-fve inches IN
length For full dress they are In fine lawn,
pique or dimity or white washable para
thea. For the dinner jacket they are In
black barathea, peau de sole, twill or nne
armure The collar for evening dress is
perfectly straight stanGer, with the ends
just touching. 1t has wide stltchlng Inc
lot Inc
sons showing two studs with round cor
nered link cuffs attached. With the dinner
Jacket the wing collar will undoubtedly De
best.
The gloves for evening wear will be of a
soft white-pearl shade of glace, with backs
In self, or in self outlined with hne black
stitching The half-hose will be black silk
self clicked. Instead of the made-up pro-
tectors and mufflers the long scarfs and
squares will be worn. Nothing In the way
of a muff1er that has stitch In 1t Will be
proper Only these big squares and long
scarfs will be in good form. They are Of
bla ok silk with self cords about the edges.
The under waistcoats will be worn by many
in lieu or In addition to the long scarf.
These wastcoats are knit OF balbrlggan or
worsted They open all the way down the
front and close with seven small pearl but
tons. The armholes and the neck are cut
very large and the end Of the garment is
knit like the wrist of an undershirt so that
ii will fit snugly. These under waistcoatS
should be of the same material and color as
the underwear.
Display Tabooed.
The handkerchief will be plain white linen
with self cords and with the monogram en-
brodered in white.
Aside from the changes noted In this
brief review evening dress will be very
much the same as 1t has been for many
wears Colors and jewelry will be tabooed
and vulgar display will be discouraged.
In every article designed for wear with
most formal dress one should be very care
fu1 to nreserye the conventional Shapes and
to avoid anything that is stfff or mechan-
ical or that Is overturned.
Result of a Runaway.
A horse attached to a wagon belonging to
Abraham Patton of 233 Pennsylvania ave-