New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1902-07-06
MEXICAN COOKING.
PEOPLE USED TO IT DON'T LIKE THE
AMERICAN SORT.
From The Mexican Herald.

From The Mexican Herald.
Americans living here for some time ind that the
cllrrate mas an influence their palates, and that
W oan a Sat a4y Pa59s naGi9na4 with WITH gqto
variety Of sweetmeats. such as tropical people
everywhere are exceedingly fond of, getting their
from fat The Mexican palate has to have a for
Americans appear 10 crave So exotic pickles
Inat tae Spanish name .encurtdos' has given
shopkeepers know them best There is a growing
demand here among the Mexican people OF the bet
physicians reconrnendinG them for an@mic people
IN a cosmopolitan CITY like this there is give
an taAe IN alshes ana so il comes about that in
culinary preparations come on the table The cooks
VINO succeed one another in the city restaurants
fare The result is that the distinctiveIy Mexican
CUISINE must De looked for in small places remote
There are many. Mexicans,. especially women:
mem. travelling in the United states, have been
nothing to eat in the United States say these
are apt to be most savory. spiced. and perhaps
ctSI-c-.a pepper w men one mas Grown ac-
dishes seem tnsipid. Not few Anglo-Saxon resi-
f fSa GomPaa that when they go home on visit
-, The best Mexican cooks, who have inherited the
bondiguillas' really Moorish naeatbaID has been
retained 1t is not the tasteless connection Of the
TaI@tsSs A[nerlean COOK 2ut IS an artistic com
in color and flavor according to taste Rice in the
NALenc4an style IS very Spanish, ard few cooks
prepare II well. When an old fashioned Mexican
COOK, such as may be found in fine old families,
presents dish Of "arroz IA valenCiana," then
you have true gourTets delicacy. worthy Of
BrLlat Savarin himself
As for sWeetmeats. old fashioned and wealthy
families keep up the Arabian custom of having
distinct kinds. There are good housekeepers who
can make several hundred varieties OF "dulces."
and II IS said that the is a most difficult
The best Mexican families live we'll spending Law
lshly on the table, and women in country houses.
the men away. sit down al noon TO dinners Of
many courses The picked up dinner is
Mexican notion in this lavish land people Of means
IKE 10 have a well supplied table.
IN many hacienda house the table IS set out
aoundantIy, and the cooking is most appetiZng.
IN remote places in the country finds cooks
VINO are indeed Jewels possessed OF culinary
lore and proud TO exercise their art. And II is
cause TOT philosophlc meditation that many
OF the dishes introduced into Spain by the MOoTs,
VINO IN turn got their culinary traditions from the
Saracens and Persiars, well their aTChi-
tecIure. should still survive in this pleasant land
OF Mexico
Arabic names persist in all kitchens here in
Mexico, and the COn1rCrest utensils found o
suggest the Moors and their wonderful civilization
Some day an en- -husiast viii appear who viii make
a book about the influence Of the Moors
American cuisine, which has been varied in
Mexico, Central America and the lower tropics BY
the pToIusion OF dstinctively American roots herbs
and fruits II IS fertile theme. well worthy OF
investigation, and far more important than grave
dissertations on Pan-Amercan topics. We must
eat several tunes a day; international law is
abstraction remote from our daily lives.