New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1902-04-19

AND TRADERS BY Frances MacNap- ocIdNo'
DID, X 367. Longmans Green & Co
SEVENTY ONE DAYS CAMPING N MOROCCO
BY Lady Grove 12mo, PIP. Xii. 10 Lohsnias
Green & Co
These two English women travelled IN MOROCCO
with aims not widely different: Miss MacNap
had no special object except to crafty the desire
of travel-as her interpreter told one OF the
Bashaws who was infinitely puzzled at her ap-
pearance in the country, there are some VINO
must travel Lady Grove accompanied party
whose chief aim was hunting, though sight
seeing was also included in the programme
Miss MacNab has written a more serious &c
count of her travels; Lady Grove presents
series of lively and picturesque sketches
The crowd Of human life impressed Miss Mac
Nab on her first entrance into Tangiers; life
thoroughly Oriental:
At every step there was a living incident
Besgars in rags. men washing at the fountains,
the blind. the halt, the manned, creatures oe-
formed and twisted out of all semblance 10
human beings Yelled women sat with their
backs to the street, with loaves OF bread lalu
out on the stones for sale. A burst OF barparouS
music announced the approach OF a nttle pro-
cesson of tatterdemalions carrying lanterns ana
flags. which threaded its way through the
crowd They religious sect, on their way
prayers, and their saint was in the mldst.
The rich man rode past on his lat mule Win
his slave on foot crying ''Balaakl' Qnake way
before him. The water carrier, with MS goat
skin on his back ran nmby past, ringing his
little bell. The Holy Fool, with his iron sceptre
and dirty rags, swung past in a lordly manner;
the very poor timdy offered him coppers. and
the rich let him alone. All the little cuppoaruS
in the walls which answer for shops were open,
and added the color of draperies, pottery, SWORDS
in scarlet scabbards and swinging brass lamps
In Tetuan Miss MacNab visited a Moorish
lady in her home The lady was handsome
with dignifed but pleasant manner, the one
wife of her husband. She was struck with Won
der, mived with disapproval at her visitors at
0Ilt I,orI ind
and courteous. The chief impression left upon
Miss MacNab was the diametrical opposition
between them.
The East is far from the West, and the dis
lance is as great in domestic as in political mat
tiers This house was. l feel sure. a bright eX-
ample of domesticity- Every one, even s',,. Inc
black slaves who were preparing the dinner,
was clean, we'll dressed and smiling. The chill
dren were both good specimens. There was, SO
far as / could ascertain, no other VIE ana no
harern: vet one felt confronted by a steadily
maintained difference of opinion, Of OPINION
which nothing would change, and a dlnerent
standard of happiness.
At FL Kasar, where she visited the Bashaw
and his harem the picture a different one:
The herems are little better than lunatic
asylun;s with this difference-that, whereas IN
a lunatic asylum the patients are encouraged to
enjoy themselves nationally, and TO strengthen
such minds as they have. and to practise self
control the regime in the harem is the very re-
verse . These grandees are not permitted
do ANYTHING. The Stigma OF slavery ATTACHES
to work, especially to household work; there
fore they spend their time in painting their
faces and dressing themselves, tattooing their
hands with lace patterns, as though they We're
mittens and finding some fresh spot on their
cheeks where another mark can be added
The ladies a picnic, and there was
singing by the concubines. the words OF which,
the guest was sure, had atrocfous meaning;
they served tea in the Moorish fashion-about
tablespoonful Of green tea to a quarter Of a
pound Of lump sugar and bunch OF seven or
eight sprigs of green mint, all put in the pot to-
gether. Both they and the Bashaw, who was
visited later. were unable to understand what
the English women were travelling thither for,
and frankly avowed that they had never heard
of such thing.
Miss MacNab's travels horseback took her
through some of the more remote portions of
Morocco through villages which no English per-
son had before visited; yet her reception seems
rarely to have been unfriendly- She visited also
some Of the towns that showed the magnihcence
Of Morocco in the past, now fallen from their
great estate-with grand old houses built In the
days when very wealthy class Of Moors lived
there. There is the ruin Of the Tower Of Hassan,
near Rabat a magnificent specimen Of archl-
lecture in the style of the Alhambra, built, but
never finished in the twelfth century, and said
to be sister tower Of the Giralda at Seville
and the Kntnbiya at Morocco City. Morocco
CITY itself "Marakish," is pathetcally digni-
fed in it's ruined state. The mosques and
towers grand, but over all is a mournful air
of neglect and decay. There live the young, per-
picked, sorely beset Sultan, Abdul Azziz, and
his Scotch adviser and friend, Kaid MacClean-
a middle aged man. whose enthusiasm, bordering
upon recklessness, burns fercely that one
wonders what he can have been a younger
man.
OF the Sultan Miss MacNab heard varied
counts He was a nervous, hystercal youth, in
terror of the powers: he was a hardened de-
bauchee; he young man Of extraordinary
ability and the highest character with sound
views as to government He was entirely under
the French thumb; he was completely English
in his sympathies. Some thought him mad,
others doubted if he really alive, and one
missionary had great hopes of his Christian
character"
Lady Groves hunting expedition took her
through some of the same country as Miss Mac
Nab's more serious travelling, and, in addition,
far UP into the Atlas Mountains. amid scenery
of great grandeur, little known to Europeans.
She tells Of it all in jaunty and vivacious way,
with a most candid expression of opinions
formed on even the slenderest basis of a trav-
eller's observation. The party even pre-
sented to the Sultan, of whose personality, how
ever, Lady Grove, who might have solved some
of the questions that puzzled Miss MacNab, has
singularly little to say. He sat on a Chester
field" sofa covered with peculiarly hideous
cretonne and asked many questions to the
ages and condition OF life Of his visitors, and
on learning that Oriental salaams We're not
rractised by visitors to European soVereigns,
requested that only usual European forms
should be gone through by Europeans in his