The Saint Paul globe., 1902-03-30

affair.
Costly thy habit as thy purse can buy
gowns in this Year of our prosperity;
| sun, IL is the Sostliness controlled by
Soot ldSle and the iutuitive instinct OF
tiie Hlness OF things for the best dressed
woman is not always she who has the
most eiaeorate clothes, but she who
hlio"s now and when to wear what she
mas me eternal fitness of things is the
Dest evidence of the well-dressed woman.
a reiLeo Woman's aesthetic sense un-
consciously teaches her that while it is
utterly out of the question for her to in
uuise hef artistic perceptions in a robe
u pdhne Ioulard at S. a yard, that in
sleaa OF endeavoring to initiate the idea
In cheap so-called silk at so cents, the
wiser part is to grasp the leading idea
OF the skirt and bodice shape with, per-
mas touch Of the characteristic trim
ming, and reproduce these in one of the
many beautiful mercerized cottons, with
winch every shop is now so bountifulIy
supplied The best of these eottens are
SO well manufactured, that the luster
Will not disappear, even after a. vigorous
Tubing; but beware of rashly purchasing
them, for there are some that will spot
with the slightest drop of water. Many
or the seasons daintiest patterns in fou-
laIds are priced at 81 a yard, others at
$1.5G and 81 But if you are a Judge of
quality, the former Will be found to an
sWer every purpose.
The summer season of 1902 will un-
doubtedly hereafter be known as the pc
r1od of the vogue of the bell sleeve which
is tight-ftting over the upper arm, but
slopes into very full and puffed effect
below the elbow, being gathered into
ToraT ifr11ly
wrist. This gives the opportunity for the
Introduction of white chiffons and mulls,
ecru lace, as well as the white filet ones :
small buttons, tiny ribbon straps or cord
lngs and loops, also serve to give an
added touch Of daintiness and fashion to
the sleeve. The upper part is sometimes
tucked in hairline tucks, or shirred, or
plated in mousquetaire fashion The
same idea of the sleeve is carried out in
the vest and collar; but one could almost
swear that the sleeve design is first con-
Ceived, and the remainder of the garment
hung upon that. Some beautiful imported
models are showing the deep lace cuff
reaching to the elbow, and totally with
out lining; others show the elbow sleeve
with the pompadour ruff1e of delicately
soft lace or point esprit
While the blouse bodice appears to pre-
dominate in the American created foul
lards, in the Partisan gowns are to be
seen both blouse and eton effects, with
some slight sprinkling of the short Louis
XVI coat, also some position effects in
allover lace jackets. This coat, and the
bodice With position, whether of lace
Silk, cloth or whatsoever material, are
undoubtedly the reigning styles which are
most suitable for the stout figure But
then, too, we must remember that as
nowadays there are no more old-lady
styles, woman seeming, today, to have
found the fountain Of perennial youth so
long sought for, So too, we are gradually
eliminating the mature figure from our
midst, thanks, no doubt largely to the
Introduction of the straight-front corset
in it's latest and best form.
Quite stunning is a green and wbita
which has trimmings of a square mesh
linen hlet lace and is furthermore adorn-
ed with silk embroiderieS in the softest
or PERSIAN coIors. Position jackets in
these imported gowns. A rose-pnk one
has the Louis XIV. coat with the basques
signify rlppling over the hips. The vest
Is OF tucked mouSseline de sole inter-
Spersed with insertions of Valenciennes
lace. The buttons are of an Opaque pink
stone, very much resembling jewels
A crap apanne fOulard has poWderings
OF polka dots in various sizes from the
PIN dot to that of the dimensions of a
quarter of dollar; that is, moreover
trimmed with a yoke of dead white Irish
crochet lace, black velvet ribbon and
knots of blue chiffon, of which the collar
is also made. A fawn-colored back
ground in satin foulard has a graceful
design running over it in black and
white. The eeru lace galloon insertions
trim the skirt about the hips and hounce:
the vest is handsomely ornamented with
cordings in narrow widths of black.
white and gilt. The buttons are tiny vel
vet things in black
-. Ine he collars are mostly of thin materials,
chlnon Or lace combinations. with
touch of contrasting color about the
neck. This band of color is also seen
IN some of the latest embroidered white
shlrt waists, and is an excellent idea for
the woman who likes a becoming addi-
uon TO her toilette as well as one that
is such great aid in adding to the
freshness of ner gown. A brilliant red
gown with stunning design in black
ana white is ornamented with velvet trim
mlngs and ecru lace. Black lace gal
loon and insertions are seen on MANY of
the handsomest gowns.
The latest Partisan idea in the parasol
seems to be that it must be made of the
same material as these gorgeous carriage
gowns, while the hat must form A de-
clded. yet harmonious, contrast to the
entire costume The American monde
artlstlque differs slightly from the French
IN this particular. preferring the parasol
or somewhat softer outlines. with lace
fVsi7,1