The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-01-12


and print shops for portraits of the royal
sacrlet woman. as Carlyle called her. and
some astonishing effects are promised as a
result of these investigations.
Meanwhile our friends, the man milliners,
tunes to be: Chinese and japanese silks
very light of texture and of youthful
tints, also bengaline and epingine for the
classic Greek robes; surah, armure. crepe.
diagonal, merveilleux and heavy, close
woven satins for Du Barry waists. The
last-named are all distinguished for exqui-
site brilliancy of coloring-the wearers will
have to consult their complexion before Sc
lecting costume. AT a fete given at the
hotel of Prince Murat the other evening L
saw some delightful toilettes in Greek
style, the first the winter season produced.
The wearers, 1 learned, belonged TO the
Princess de la Moskovas set, and. having
taken time by the forelock. received con-
CALCULATIONS and compliments from all
present, except some women of their own
age who were green with envy. The old
Duchess of Wagram and the Princess de
Polk said that the majestic folds envelop-
ing these fine figures reminded them Of the
Tuileries under the empire.
Surely dressmakers and manufacturers
will like the fashion for it uses up vast
amount of materials. Several of the young
women had their dresses edged with taste
full borders in embroidered tulle, and though
white silk stockings were necessary ad-
juncts, they nevertheless called forth much
favorable comment.
NO CORSETS ARE WORN.
But far more interesting is the fact that
the new style of dress made the absence
of corsets hardly discernible. Seven years
from now century will have passed since
the reintroduction of this instrument of tor
ture, that, was unknown under the republic,
the directory and the early years of the en-
pire; if the agitation against it, now under
way, continues, it may not reach its one
hundredth anniversary-let us hope so, az
least. The style requires only a flexible
bustholder without steel or whalebone, and
the fact that Queen Alexandra advocates
that form of mechanical adjunct to the
toilette, helps to introduce il in the most ex-
elusive circles. And when modish women
learn to do without the cause of so many
dangerous complications and operations,
the great mass of her less fortunate sisters
will not be long in following suit.
revive pure and delicate outlines is con-
tent with sort of linen girdle made from
a plaster cast of the wearer's body. No
wholesale manufacture of bust holders, If
you please AS each woman's torso differs
from the other, so each individually will
have her bustholder made to order. One
Of the young women in a Greek costume
told me that the substitute for a corset she
wore had been made by seamstress. 1t
allowed her to breathe freely, all her chest
and lower organs having full sway.
On the street and in the carriage the
classic tunic is hidden under the ample
folds of a long, wide cloak, and with this
large hats of the kind we see in Romney's
and Gainsborough's portraits are worn.
Two American girls attracting my atten-
ton by the enormity of their nantes at
the door of a friends house yesterday
afternoon, turned out to be adopts of the
new mode and looked uncommonly well
in the classic costume with the ''Grecque"
border. Their waists were four-cornered-
wise at the neck One wore blue, and the
ether garnet-color silk mousseline.
AS the classic costume comes in, exeat
false hair, or, at least, hair falsified by
dyes bleaches, etc. Natural color is trump.
The bleached blonde, or manufactured
strawberry is laughed out of all Paris
salons nowadays. A very popular orna-
ment is a headdress composed of oak
leaves with gilded acorns, such
fashionable after 1913, when it was called
Druid" but the old-time ''panaches,' or
plumes, are also again in favor, and there
seems to be some inclination to carry this
fashion to extremes, as in the times of
Marie Antoinette, of whom Saularie's me-
moirs say: when the Queen passes
through the gallery of Versailles one sees
nothing but a forest of waving plumes a
foot and a half higher than the ladies'
heads"
PATCHES TO BE WORN AGAIN.
Another backward movement is the adop-
ton of patches; soon it will be said that
woman appearing without any must have
lost all consideration for what is chic. Lis
tenng 10 a number of young people who
were discussing this sort of nonsense, 1
gathered the very latest patch code. Know,
then madam, that the 'impassioned patch"
is fixed at the corner of the left eye the
gallant in the middle of the cheek, the
bold" on the nose, the "coquette'' on the
lower lip. If you have pimple in the face
you may hide it under a patch, of course,
but your friends will know that it's there
just the same and they will call that par
ticular patch "receleuse," receiver of stolen
goods. Round patches are said to be ex-
tremely dangerous to love-sick men, and,
therefore, bear the pretty title of imam
Slaughter Get some, quick.
SUPERSTITIONS IN DRESS.
Evening toilets, by the way, are now Sc
lected with a view to pleasing the stars
why all in black?" I asked a delicious
Because it is most appropriate on the
melancholy Saturn's appearance" On other
similar occasions most of the ladies wore
light blue, 'in honor of the full MOON"
again, many were arrayed in gray, the color
of the silver Mercury, who is expected TO
repay his devotees by helping along their
financial speculations. Burning red is the
livery of those addressing prayers to Jupi-
ter greenish yellow is worn when Venus
is visible. And the same women who sub
scribe to such utter nonsense carry in their
purses a recipe for achieving eternal
youth that strongly appeals to the judi
cious mind.
The recipe, recently unearthed in some
old tome, is by one Oudand, "apothecary
and parfumeur to her Grace the Duchess
of Valentinos," who was no less person
age than the celebrated Diana de Poitiers
the most noted beauty of the sixteenth
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