Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-12-27

wishing IL Iurtner, when Leon naStened up
and said sweetly, as he stopped to pick II
up. You hat once again lose your pam
toufie.
The child-like and bland remarks of our
delightful courier as he made his very nice
remarks always quite convulsed us. He
himself was sceptic OF sceptics. and
miraculous tales or anything except the
n ost practical and matter-of-fact facts he
received or related with look of amused
tolerance. or 'You yourself believes that,
mesdames? No-o-o-or'
We were taken to the window opening
upon sort of three-sded well. which is
said to let in cool breezes even on the hottest
days, and were told the tale with a shrug
of the shoulders and why not thees ii is
all like well. Wells ees never hotr'
Then to the miraculous pillar of marble in
one side of which is a small hole worn by
devout fingers, and which is said always
to contain moisture, why, no one knows.
Grease eet ees from dirty fingers!" ex-
claimed Leon in disguised tones. and then
we were told to look in a certain direction
and we would see the Royal Chapelle Re-
gard that chapelle mesdames; it is from
The sultan.' From St Sofia we were taken
to the Mosque Of Ahmed the only existing
mosque with six minarets. Before IL was
built the one at Mecca had six and none
other but the sultan, its builder refused to
puiid 1t unless he could have six minarets
TOO, so seventh had to be added to the
mosque at Mecca. So much for being a
sultan.
Eat, Willy Nilly.
AS we were feeling decidedly the need Of
something to eat, We concluded to go into a
Turkish restaurant and eat what was given
us. willy nilly. which we accordingly did,
and thanked kind fate devoutly that moth
ing worse was placed before us.
The worst proved to be a dish of meat Of
what animal heaven only knew the secret
cut into tiny pieces and boiled before our
eyes on a large gridiron. six eight
pieces at time being strung on a small
SUCK After 1t was well cooked II was
poured over large dish of rice deliciousIy
prepared. and then a dish of melted fat
poured on top of the whole. For drink We
had the wine of Constantinople not wine
at all, of course. but the juice of various
fruits pressed out and drunk while fresh.
After this meal, which we found 1t quite
possible TO eat, We were taken to a shop
where they sold only the sweets made In
Constantinople, and We came forth laden
with toukoum or Turkish delight, and also
each with tin of delight of rose" We were
taken to the beautiful Porcelain Mosque. all
tiled throughout with the most enchanting
blue tiles; to the museum to see the wonder
ful tomb of Alexander, indescribably beauti-
ful, THE real toomp of kink," according TO
Leon, and We ended up at the small mon
aStery on the hill back of Galata, where
We were told We could see the ''dervishe
que houle,' the English of it being too
much for Leon. In spite of all we had
read about the bowling dervishes as we
gallery on the row of men clad in white,
who, standing close against the wall In
toned something which sounded like Allah
"a II Allah a-a-a," first softly, then more
and more strongly, at the end of each in
tonfng bending so that with the very de-
vout their heads touched their knees, we
were startled and interested beyond words.
Some of them seemed to do it all for effect,
glancing at us frequently and about the
room, but two or three were undoubtedly
sincere, and one ascetic looking young man
over six feet kept 1t up until he fell over In
a faint, and when revived started in again,
the tears running down his thin face. He
kept his eyes fixed, looking straight ahead
of him, always touched his knees with his
forehead, and his earnest. deep notes,
Allah "a IL Allah a-a-ar' hard to for
get.
A Twilight Walk.
AS we went home in the twilight we found
little stalls for selling cakes at most of the
street corners, each stall festooned with
small pink paper roses and lighted by Ian
tern. The owner usually sat in his wheel
barrow near by and waited for customer
Moonlight on the fine old tower Of Galata
completed a busy and a happy day.
Para, lovely by day, with it's countless
slim white minarets, grows more lovely by
night when its wilderness turns from white
wash to pearl, and its every defect is con-
cealed or made beautiful.
One more day completed short stop
in the fascinating old town, and We spent
most of it in the bazars, where our tempers
were far from being up to test, for we were
assailed at every shop door and street cor
ner and the wares absolutely thrust upon
US. AS every one spoke English and the
shops were much more than the attractive
cells of Tifiis and Tangiers, We were not
greatly attracted by them and were very
greatly exasperated.
Early in the afternoon, having paid our
not exorbitant bill, and been assailed in the
most disagTeeable manner by every ser
want, man and worlanS for a tip we forced
our enraged way through the crowd and
sped off to the station, where we boarded
the orient express for Paris and began an
eleven days journey of uncomfortable lux
ury, for we had nice little compartment
for two, with toilet rooms next it, there
was dining car to the train, and no change
between Paris and Constantinpple, but
even in the most luXuriant train one misses
the cleanness and space Of an ocean
steamer.
AS the train slid. almost silently, out of
the station Leon. standing in the passage
shook his fist in the direction of the city
and said in low voice. THAT city the
wickedest of all in the world, all bad. Sui
tan, Wlckedest man in the world. No man
be good or he get killed. live there fifteen
years. l know. Any man hear me now he
follow me to Paris and kill me dead with a
sword or a poignard.'
MARGARET STERLING.