New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1902-09-01
THE SEASON OF GAME.
WHY SOME COOKS FAIL TO PRE-
PARE IT PROPERLY-AN EN-
CELLENT SAUCE.

September the month Of harvest when the mar
kets are filed with the greatest supply OF fruit
and game at the lowest prices. is also the month
when the game season virtually opens Woodcock
and other small birds. which were formerly shot
in summer are now protected in most States until
fall.
Few cooks even those living in the game coun-
Try, are good game cooks. The mass of the game
shot throughout the country is furnished to the
great CITY markets where it is sold principally
wealthy homes and fine hotels, and cooked BY ex-
perts Persons who have not been carefully
trained have a prejudice against cooking game In
the correct The average woman over
cooks her game, drying up all the delicate juices
and preparing 1t nearly like a barnyard fowl
as possible Where venson is plentiful it is cooked
like common beef and 1t is not strange that
many persons repeatedly declare that they do
not understand why there those who consider
fl a luxury Many a woman overcooks her beef
and dries up her ventson she dries up her NUT
ton. Venison is pure, wholesome meat, and, like
all game, must be cooked that the red
blood follows the knife when il is Beef and
mutton should be cooked this way when they are
of prime quality. Inferior beef and lamb. such
found away from the great city markets
cannot be cooked in this way it is better to cook
It thoroughly as the country housekeeper does
The fun grown animals of the farm liable to
disease. and it is as dangerous 10 eat them in
state Il is 10 eat pork rare, The best beef
found in the large city markets Is from young
steers which have never been in the barnyard. and
the best mutton Is the neSh young SneT-p reared
especially for food Prime beef and mutton like
this should be cooked rare, like the flesh game
The flesh Of dairy animals and Of mutton grown
for its wool makes inferior meat.
The only game bird which is sometimes cooked
well done, something like a barnyard fowl. Is the
time should be allowed for cooking a bird with
white meat than with dark like grouse Either
Of these birds the quail should be larded-that
little strips Of fat pork should be drawn through
h-az law IF
Harding pork are skewered over the breast. When
exposed in hot oven these layers OF pork shrvel
up, and the birds are Drowned a rich golden color
The usual way of cooking quail. grouse and par,
fridge is 70 roast them Begin by ceanlng. an, ana
found in ole fashioned cook books which order
the trail TO be left in the bird Every cook IN his
birds and the much Wanted woodcock ''dra wn''
Of serving the woodcock nndrawn. the hearts and
yers Of the BIRDS are separated fT2 fRe Of
over snali sTTips of fried bread and set in the
oven to brown while the bird is cooking These
strips Of Drowned bread or ca1aEes ,5louIG Dc
ing To prevent the mixture from , drying up even
a n 55s s sn9fs aSpd PG i' Of butter
No same bird is ever st@fsed so bfta Els an
partridge or grouse to flavor II. but is not served
with the bird Wild ducks never larded. Lard
NEEDED in faf bro like duck Examine all game
birds carefully fer shot and feathers which may
have been driven into the flesh when the bird was
killed.
Roast grouse and birds of this size should be
cooked from twenty to thirty minutes in very
hot oven: Roast partridge a somewhat larger
ptsrnaigan winch usually brought into market
In February. should be cooked the same length Of
time and very thoroughly larded. as it is a much
dryer meat than native partridge Quail is a
smaller bird than grouse and viii cook in fifteen or
eighteen minutes. Woodcock pover and small
birds may often be roasted in ten minutes. Prob
ably the best way cook very small birds gener-
aIIy is 10 split them down the back season them
wei with salt ard dip them in melted butter or d
s-oonful Of sweet OIL dredEe them lightly with
then be served with little butter. with which
few drops Of lemon juice has been mixed.
BREAD SAUCE FOR GAME.
Roast game IS usually served on a platter with
an English bread sauce poured around it Other
sauces are sometimes used, but this is always in
good taste and agreeable TO 4 fastidious palate,
To make the sauce put cupfuls OF milk in a
double boiler with q quarter OF onion and a
tbtrd or a cupful OF breadcrumbs which have
.e4n- dried and sifted. Add two tAblespoonfuls OF
i,,tter with salt and pepper to IL Let the
i,readcrumts cook in the milk for about fifteen
minutes Take tTo-thirds OF cupful OF coarse
fef. until they are a golden brown. Lay the roast
ID birds lof any kind except duck) on small plat
lsr noIlr the white bread sauce around them after
removing the piece Of onion Sprinkle the fried
Ireadcrumbs the breast OF roasted bird ana
.ver the sauce. All game birds should be laid on
= eir backs IN a dripping pan when roasted, with
heir breasts the heat There should be no
water IN the pan. for the birds Will need TO De
listed with water; only once twice with 4 little
melted butter in the case OF grouse partridge