Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1902-07-10
REV. Mr.. BURK'S LETTERS.
sCH00L-DAY LESSONS IN ROMAN HIS
TORY RECALLED.
AN INSPECTION OF ST. PETER 's-ARcHI-
lecture AND ART-THE VATICAN PAIL
ACE PRICELESS TREASURES = APPIAN
WAY, cATAcoMBs, ETc.-sUNDAY IN
RoME-FLowER MARKET, ETC.
From Norristown Daily Herald, June 1ol.

WAY, CATAcoMBs, ETC.-sUNDAY IN
HORSEPOWER MARKET, ETC.
From Norristown Daily Herald, June 10]
Among the books in my fathers library
was a profusely illustrated work on the
excavations at Pompeii, which l read and
re-read in the days Of my boyhood. The
knowledge thus gained, increased by later
reading added greatly to my understand
ing and enjoyment in the ruined city. In
Rome this experience was repeated, but on
a larger scale. The school-day lessons in
Roman history, the reading of the classics
while in college, and the study of the rise
and fall of the Papacy, as well as deep
ening interest in Roman architecture and
art, had made a preparation for a visit to
Rome which I only realized when l stood
in the very places which had been for years
familiar to me through description and
picture. Strange as it may seem, the only
source of disappointment was St. Peters, |
had been prepared to be impressed with its
great size and magnifcence, and so | was.
We visited it often in our days in Rome,
and always were we conscious of these. We
made its size more real by climbing to the
railing inside the dome, where we could
look down at the little, doll-like figures on
the pavement below, and where we were
close to the gigantic pictures of the evange-
lists, one welding a pen seven feet long.
We even climbed to the very top of the
dome, and two of us were up in the bronze
ball, which will hold sixteen people, yet
looks small enough from the piazza in front.
The interior is as glorious as choice marbles,
cleaning mosaics and cleaning gold can
make it. But was disappointed, because,
with all these there was no thrill of spirit
ual uplifting, no consciousness of the pres
ence of God, or even of His honor 1t was
of the earth, earthly Its glory was only
that which we are taught shall pass away.
AS l said we went back again and again
to it, and each time | sought to under
stand the effect produced. It is not a place
of worship, for that is confined almost ex-
clusively to the chapels at the sides and in
the transepts. 1t is magnificent monu-
ment of the papacy, glorification of the
power and greatness of man. AS such it is
eminently satisfying, but one looks for
something more in the largest temple in
Christendom.
One finds this more in the Sistine Chapel,
where before the eyes in the altar wall is
Michael Angeles great picture of the Last
Judgment, full Of his masterful solemnity,
reverent in every part save where he uses
the likeness of one of his narrow souled
tormentors, as protest against the little
ness of man. | grant there are features of
paganism in the picture, but if one look
above them he will see the truth as it is in
Christ Jesus, and the artist has painted his
faith in the whole picture. Then above
are those wonderful creations OF the same
master mind, not in servile bondage to any
man, servant though he might be outward
ly, but wrought in reverence. There is
power in these works which makes man
lower his voice and think more humbly of
himself and more highly of God, that
which I say missed in st. Peters. There
are other pictures, excellent ones too, in
the chapel, but cannot now write of them.
Nor will | attempt to draw comparison
between the pictures in the Sistine Chapel
and those in the Logge by Raphael. Pur-
posely we saw them on different days, and
they ought to be separated in thought.
The Vatican Palace, in which the Sis
tine Chapel occupies a small space, is the
largest in the world, splendidly adorned
and enriched with priceless treasures. In
one small room we saw Domenichinos
Communion of st. Jerome" Raphaels
madonna of Foligno" and his great mas
terpiece, "The TRANSPORTATION. In the
very large collection of marbles and bronZes,
one need only mention the LAGOON, the
Apollo Belvedere, and the Apoxyomenos,
the bronze figure of an athlete scraping the
oil and dust from his right arm. Hall after
hall was filled with the most beautiful
works of art, of which these are only some
of the most excellent. | was greatly
interested in visit to the Vatican Library,
in which there is not book to be seen,
save when some case is carefully unlocked
by guard. Indeed its most valuable
collection is that of the thousands of manu-
scripts which are kept in the wall cabinets.
Above the cabinets and ON the pillars and
ceilings there are ornate frescoes, represent
ing the growth of learning, etc. Among
the books which we did see were famous
manuscripts of the New Testament, elab-
orately decorated editions of breviaries,
first editions, and the love letters of Henry
VIII. We saw the bull by which Luther
was communicated, and one could only
think of the futility of all means by which
man has sought to check the advance of
truth or to chain thought.
We visited many other churches, in each
Of which there was some object of special
interest, as the statue of Moses by Michael
Angelo in San Pietro in Vincoli, the Setyls
by Raphael in Santa Mariadella Pace, and
Michael Angeles 'Christ with the Cross, y
or 'Ino Vadis ?' in Santa Maria sobra Min
erva. While on my way to visit the tomb
of Monica, the mother of Augustine, in
Saint Agostina, | saw the Tore della
Selma, "Hilda's Tower in the marble
Faun.n
One of our interesting excursions outside
the walls of Rome was that to San Paolo
Huoia, practically modern church, but
one Respondent in marbles and mosaics.
1t was the most beautiful church we saw,
and very clean, and added charm which
most others lacked. One reason for the
cleanliness may have been the very small
number of people living near the church.
All of the older church was burned in 1923,
except the choir and adjacent parts, such as
the Cappella del Crocifisso, where Loyola
and his companions took the vows OF his
new order in 1541. On returning to the
city we visited the Protestant Cemetery,
close by the gate. Here are tombs of
Keats and Shelley, j. A. Symonds, Con-
stance Fenimore Woolson, etc, under the
shadow of that far more ancient tomb, the
Pyramid of Cestius, one of those objects on
which we are sure st. Pau's eyes rested. |
At another time we visited the Mamentine
Prison were Jugurtha died, and where,
probably, st. Paul and st. Peter were pris-
oners before their execution.
The prison is near the Arch of Severus,
one of the most imposing remains of the
Forum. We spent considerable time amid
these remnants of ancient Rome, making
out the Temples Of Vespasiano, of Castor
and Pullux, Saturn, Romulus, and the Ro-
man Forum and Basilica of Julius. One
of the most interesting spots was that
where the Vestal Virgins had their home |
The pillars of the aedicula are standing as
well as the walls of partitions in the house. |
We saw remnants of the mosaic floor, the |
hot air flues, and the MILL Beyond all the |
excavations rises the splendid Triumphal
Arch of Titus, commemorating the fall of
Jerusalem Inside is the bas-relief of the
captive Jesus, with the tablet of shew bread
and the golden candle stick from the Tenn
pie. Prof. Sanciayai believes the latter is |
in the mud of the Tiber
Another monument of great interest to
Christians is the Triumphal Arch of Con-
stantine, in wonderful state of preserva- |
ton. 1t commentaries his victory over |
Maxentius at Saxa Rubsa before which he |
had declared himself in favor OF Chris |
tianity. Both arches stand near the Col |
L.. IL l.