The Jersey City news., 1902-01-24


Quite a novel scheme IS TO have fine
mercerized mohair made up for common
petticoats In many cclore' il IS as pretty
as silk. and wears several times as loas.
OF course, it does not crack The most
pleasing esyie shows an accordion hounce
with a ruched edge
Queens gray is the simon-pure article
"a clean. crisp mixture of black ana
white. It is one of the Victorian revivals,
popularized by the coronation craze, and
is particularly effective in stripe alter
rating with a warp-printed ard broshe
white stripe The gray has cool. change
ant quality, which is altogether paeas ng
for summer There's an air Of elegance
and supreme distinction in it, too.
A greater contrast between the sleeves
of five years ago and those of today can
scarcely be imagined. In fact. eleeves are
at present the most important item of the
wardrobe. The most modish sleeve IS the
, one that follows closely the lines Of tie
arm to below the elbow, and then wideas
excessively, with lot of ruff.ed under
sleeves that fall over the hand. This
sleeve, however, is not generally beeom-
ing. A sleeve that is almost universally
becoming is close, with a high, tight cuff
and elaborate drapery at the el'5ow. An
example of this drapery is scarf Of
mousseline de sole, arranged with a big
bow on the outside of the arm, while the
same idea on an elbow sleeve consists of
a turn-up cuff, s.ashed on the outeide Of
The arm with a frill of lace or puff of
| some thin stuff coming through the
siashes. Many of the latest models have
sleeves made in bag to the elbow, where
| they meet long, close cuffs. A c.csa cuff,
five inches deep, with full sfeeve bag
ging over this, is perhaps the most popu-
| lar model. This sleeve should increase in
size gradually. but should reveal the con-
tour of the arm almost to the elbow.
Embroideries are becoming more and
more lavish and costly, says an exchange;
something almost all fine pearl work IS
just now agitating the minds of the ex-
| notwithstanding that, encrusting the
deep flounce of a frock. weighs it down
with a elinging graceful sumptuousity
| quite irres stible. Bo,eros of this erl-
| broidery one hears of al1o, and one is re-
minded of the sixteenth century jewel
pointed bodices familiar in old portraits
But every species of embroidery flourishes
just now and fashion seems to have
| dropped none of its former whime-not the
sequin, nor the silver and gold bead, no
/ chenille or silk stitcheries. Neither has
she wearied of those fairy effects in
mousseline roses, nor of hand-paintlng.
She maintains them all in action, adding
to her. repertoire as a fresh wiiim strikes
her fancy.
! An idea in red flannel shirt-waist iS
| the use of white buttons upon black elk
The stock, centre plait and narrow cuff
bands of the waist are of black silk, the
plait and sleeve bands stitched on eitker
/ edge with two rows of stitching and two
similar rows finish the top of the stock.
| 1t is between these two rows that there
are set white silk buttons at intervals.
| The buttons are so small that they have
almoss the appearance of knots made on
the waist There is small black silk
bow to the stock. The vast is of deep
wine color flannel and perfectly pain, not
a gather on the front or back except at
the waist, and no trimming except the
black and white silk.
1t may be of interest to know what
the Empress Eugenie ordered from her
Paris dressmaker als the latest addition to
her mourning wardrobe. There was a time
/ when Eugenies selection of a new robe
was d matter of the most intense inter
est to fashionable Europe. Poor old LADY,
That has all gone with her imperial rank
and ner marvellous beauty. Her taste is
as exquisite as ever, although somewhat
subdued, but to the grand world the garb
of the aged recluse of Farnsioorough has
become an object of indifference. This
latest toilet is composed of taffeta silk.
lace and ribbon, and sets off TO advantage
the fine face and snow white hair of the
/ once great beauty. The, silk Is shaped
over foundation of fine black oiteerl. In
scrtions of black lace trim the sleeves and
collar bands. A deep frill of black lace
falls over the shoulders, the vest of tucked
silk being framed by the lace of the coli
lar Under the frili the fronts of the bod
ice are laid in plaits of four groups each.
The sleeves resemble bishop ones, having
/ pnfYs at the elbows and tucked and in
sertion trimmed sections above and below
The puffs. The ceinture and the wrist
bands consist of bands of ribbon velvet,
finished by neat bows.
Black dress fabrics of every known
weave are to be greatly favored for the
two seasons before us, and special and
attractive exhibit of stylish and elegant
black goods included silk warp fabrics az
soft as velvet and as fine as India silk,
I mohairs and canvas weayes, wool eta
mines, English whpcords. camel's-hair
serges, handsome French chevlots and
Eenriettas.
Plain and fancy brilliantines, drar
d'etat, drap d'Alrpa. Eoliennes and gypsy
clotn repped silk and rcpped woois IL
both fine and heavy cords, new weaves ii
C.armelite and double faced cashmere, AMI
some handsome novelties with creped
grounds. in duh black or with mercerizcd
surfaces.
Most Of these black materials are repre-
sented in different qualities and prices
and the English mohairs brilliantines and
i]I'rench dtsgonals possess a degree OF dur
+ ability that is unsurpassed by any black
fabric save English serge. which, how.
ever, is less dressy In effect than the fin
er woven goods Many other standard
black stuffs indicate an even greater de-
J maud for elegant black fabrics than was
experience just a year ago when this col
or largely prevailed.
pale gray Paradise plumes are used Il