The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1902-11-20
NEW ERA FOR SPAIN.

| " De 1dhlllS AITSdI SITlQ6S.
Certain fellow travellers tell me Spain
is decaying, that her only future lies In
her becoming soul and body the crea-
ture of England, says the Rev. Thomas
| Van Ness in THE Christian Register"
It may be so; a months stay in for
eign country makes 1t impossible to
generalize; but, if Spain is dying, she is
showing the most lively energy of any
country know. Take San Sebastian
for Illustration. 1t is the court center
| during the summer months. It's posi-
ton, near the French frontier, makes
it equally accessible from the north as
we'll as from the south, and just at this
season It is crowded with fashionable
and aristocratic Spaniards. A gentle
man from Massachusetts,, who has lived
in northern Spain for over twenty-five
years, took me from Biarritz, in
France, to San Sebastian, and pointed
out its many improvements. A river
running in from the sea, and cores
ponding in flow and position to the
Charles at Boston, had been en-
banked on either side with strong
granite blocks, and the low lands filled
| All SAtClly DIS III ItlG odth Day I'll bOS"
ton. The work-to my uncritical sight
at least-seemed better done, certainly
it was more extensive, than that done
either on the Cambridge or Boston side
in the last dozen years. Then this
splendid stone wall was carried on and
down, and built right in the face Of the
turbulent Bay of Biscay Near by a
hill was being levelled, the surplus soil
going to fill in the tidelands. A spa
cious boulevard with central gardens
ran along the side of the river, re-
minding me of the new one on the
Cambridge side of the Charles. Along
this boulevard elegant and expensive
homes were being erected. I had the
impression that I was walking in our
Boston Back Bay section in the early
sos, when the building boom" was on.
Who Is doing all this work, planning
1t and paying for It? To say "the
French" Is absurd. Why dc they not
carry on the same Improvements at
Biarritz? To say the money comes in
from other lands is equally far from
the point. Why should English or Ger
man capitalists build up Spanish
tCWu hIllGS1 tlASy 1AehN A0A AalIiA al viz
future? I am much more inclined to
believe my Massachusetts friend, with
his large knowledge of this country,
than superficial writers Of books.
While in Paris I rode in every direc-
ton on the tram-car, the electric and
the top of the bus. + have done the
same here In Madrid. One can only
chronicle what one sees himself, and
must truthfully admit that I have
seen more building activity here in
Madrid than in Paris. I have no sta
tistics to offer. I only record what is
noticeable. Who is putting up these
fine new buildings in Madrid? Who
pays for them? Who is going to live
in them? There is an energy and en-
terprise somewhere and welded by
some one, though cannot find out by
whom When I am told hereafter Of
the lazy, unenterprising Spaniard I
shall remember the man with the hoe
seen everywhere through the Basque
provinces; I shall remember the side
hills cultivated, where in Colorado only
the best plain lands are utilized
shall recall those magnificent improve
ments along the San Sebastian river
ways; shall think of the modern cleo
trio street cars and lights, and the ex-
cellent way in which new Madrid is
being built; and shall put them and
the many workers in field and city
alongside of the indolent loafers around
the Puerta del Sol always in evidence,
and say, Yes, the one exists, but SO
does the other. Forces are making for
decay but more potent ones are max
ing for new life.
The church and the Tammany Hall
system in politics are the two tgrea
shadows over this sunny land. The
church. which ought to inspire and ell
evate, still continues to live in medi-
aeval past. and calls attention to mir
acle working images and saints relics.
And the political system Well, If the
stories can be believed told on every
side, it is as corrupt as was the demo-
cratic party in New York during the
reign Of Tweed or the republican party
in Philadelphia during the rule Of the
gas ring.
In the train between Madrid and To-
ledo there journeyed in our conlpart-
ment a young priest. At one of the
stations party of three were about to
enter. Seeing the priest, they shrugged
their shoulders and violently slammed
the door. "They will not enter because
am here" said the priest. 1T is true.
strange as it sounds, that the Span
iards are devoted to the Catholic faith,
and rigidly adhere to it's forms, yet
there is a growing dislike to it's minis
tiers. This dislike is exhibited in the
jokes, in the cartoons Of comic papers
and in numerous other ways. What II
beaokens am not prepared to say. Is
it that Spain is going to swing far off
from the church? I do not believe so.
Is some form of Professionalism to hold
the field? I doubt it. If so splendid
and devoted missionary as the Con-
gregational body supports in northern
Spain can accomplish comparatively so
little in giving a simpler and more
truthful faith to these people, what
hope is there of other Protestants sue
ceeding better?
The peasantry, however much they
r ~ - ,