Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1902-08-30

an Indian becomes q peOu he Is more
submissive than the negro, but not 50
intelligent, The relations between the
great proprietors and the Indians are
friendly The priest OF the hacienda
Invariably regards the Indians for
leagues around ms his parishioners. In
the chapel ON one hacienda we found
all Of the saints painted black The
duenO explained that priest had done
this in the days OF his grandfather, in
order that the Indians might feel more
at home when they came to mass. OF
ten In time Of famine the large estates
furnish free corn 10 the poor Iapotecs,
whose crops have failed The Iapo-
tees never forget the kindness. When
opportunity offers they repay In corn
OF labor
As a rule. the traveller is welcomed at
the hacienda The passing stranger
breaks the monotony OF life, and the
dueio not only refuses pay for enter
tainment but insists upon longer yis-
t. Occasionally, however, the conti-
mental charge comes up In wonderful
contrast. One evening, after a hard
davis ride. we came TO a hacinda whose
proprietor received US with open arms.
Nothing was too good for us, Al the
sug.er table we We're surprised with
oysters on the halfshell, fresh fish,
and Chateau MargeauX. a cargo
had arrived from the coast 1.-TWO days
Journey that very afternoon. The
next morning he astounded us with
blll OF 1915 each. II was itemi2ed, and
he had actually charged for the clean
sheets on the bed. But such in
stances are so rare that they are inter-
estlng "reminiscences to those who get
"neeced."
Approaching the city Of Oaxaca, hacl-
endas and puebit0s are more frequent
Everything appears old and dilapidated.
Oaxaca itself Is not an attractive city,
but IL Is a very busy one II Is one Of
the few large cities Of Mexico that
seems to be outside the sphere Of Ger
man commercial influence. The MeXi-
cans and Indians each have their
saints days and holidays, which are
observed by ALL So, on an average,
large business houses and government
Offices are closed three days In the
week. The military band, which plays
almost nightly on the beautiful plaza,
is the most attractive feature Of the
place
LEGEND OF THE BIG TREE.
Midway between oaxaca and Militia is
the little village Of Santa Maria del
Tule, famous for its big tree, which Is
said to be the largest In Mexico. Ii
shades the greater part OF the church,
yard, and Is an object of generation to
the Indians. OF course il has its le-
gend. When Alvarado commenced his
10
beneath this tree that the Zapotec
princes met TO consider plans for re-
slstance 1t had been their council tree
for generations. The new faith was ex-
ceedngly hard for the ZapOtecs TO ac-
cept. Had they been allowed to re-
tain their old religion, they might have
yielded fealty sooner AS IL was, Meth
er mailed warrior nor blackrobed prist
produced much effect upon them. one
evening, after the council had dis
persed, a blind man came to rest under
the wide-spread!ng branches. As he sat,
he became aware of presence near by,
and melodlous voice asked him II he
wished to receive his sight. Naturally
he replied In the affirmative. His wish
tor then Informed him that she was
the Blessed Virgin, the protector OF the
Christians, and that II he would be-
lieve In her, and obey her commands,
be should see. The Indian made all the
necessary promises; whereupon his eyes
were touched, and, looking up. he saw
a being Of such celestial radiance that
he fell 10 the ground in a swoon. The |
Virgin raised him TO his feet. and babe |
him go to the priests and princes Of |
The Aapotecs who had known him I'm |
The days of his affection, and tel them |
who had healed him, and preach to |
them the religion of Jesus and Mary |
Il goes without saying that, by this |
the tribe was Immediately |
brought TO a sense OF its lost condition. |
md the priests were kept as busy bap. |
izing converts as they were In the days |
4 Clovis the Frank. A church was |
ouilt close TO the tree. and Santa Maria
lei Tule became the patroness of the
lapotecs, Pilgrmages are made here
~ blind Indians, but we could get track |
II no authenticated case OF healing dur
ns the present generation. sim the
alth Of the Indians Is mistaken.
A hot, dusty road leads from Tule 10
Villa. or the ruins, themselves. little
iced be said. They are the most easy
" access OF all the celebrated ruins OF
Mexico and Central America, and every
iexlcan guide book contains a complete
description. The fact that they are be-
NC restored by the Mexican govern
nent does not enhance their value from
N antiquarian standpoint. The accom-
nodatiors in the village are "beastly."
Travellers are beset by children who
ave fake" curlos TO sell. They swear
" all che saints that these identical
elics were exhumed from the ruins.
While then fathers are busy In the back
ard, making new supply. The tour
81 can leave Oaxaca early in the morn