The Indianapolis journal., 1902-09-27
SOME new FALL GOWNS
IMPORTED MODELS THAT SHOW THE
NEWEST FEATURES.
Changes i'm General Styles Not
Marked, hut Minor Details Show
Much That Is New.


shown for autumn gowns carried with them
the idea of much variety the later ones.
which are just now being shown, magnify
that impression until one is almost con-
fused by the array set out for view. Tight
skirts with habit backs, snug skirts with
stitched plaits at the back, skirts plated
at front and back. others plated and
Joined to hip yokes and others again
shirred at the waist, all are shown.
Blouses. tiny coats. long tunic coats and
capes all appear. If ever woman is to be
at her best surely the time has arrived
When no fixed law exists. when all varia-
tions are allowed surely women should be
we'll gowned in the true sense, surely we
should graceful, fascinating pictures at
every turn. There is something offered for
each and every style. If buyers fail to take
advantage of the fact the fault lies with
themselves. Individuality is allowed full
play. Personal tastes and peculiarities all
can be considered and studied while the
gown is still kept absolutely up to date and
in style.
1 have had occasion to mention in
previous letters the tremendous rush for
zibelines and long haired effects with which
the season opened, and also. If / mistake
not to call attention to the fact that SIM
liar things occur every fall. While un-
doubtedly. we will see many handsome
street costumes of the really beautiful
rough cloths, the handsomest gowns are of
the lovely satin faced Sort which always
is elegant, always In vogue and is better
suited to visiting. reception and the like
than are the long haired cloths, let them
be intrinsically beautiful as they may.
Among generous number of elegant visit
ing costumes just received L noticed not
one of zibeiine or camers-hair, but, on the
other hand, both materials are seen in
beautiful costumes designed for the street.
Apparently white and all delicate tints are
to remain in favor for such occasions as are
reached in a carriage. One sees biscuit and
pale tan shades that are bewitching and
any number of white and pale gray cloth
gowns, but blue in all its rich, dark shades,
sage green, wood browns and deep reds
also are favorites, so that those women
who must go afoOt need not despair. Moth
asked, while many of the blues are ele-
CANT in the extreme, the browns and dark
grays always possess an inherent ele-
gance of their own and red, wisely chosen,
is superb worn by the women whom 1t be-
fits.
VARIETY IN TRIMMINGS.
Trimmings are all things one could con-
ceive or so 1t seems to me after a morning
spent in studying new materials and de-
signs. Fur, lace, embroidery. Oriental
bands, stitching, braids, buttons and dang
lers galore all are to be seen and In many
instances are so completely beautiful in
themselves that they fascinate the gaze.
Drop buttons make the novelty and truly
tempting one. In some instances they are
of clear transparent pearl set about with
tiny stones, in others they are of carved
gilt or silver, but to me at least the love-
liest yet seen are in dull metal effect with
of various colors and which give an ORR
entail suggestion that carries its own
charm. Rich in tone, they are never ag-
gressive nor crude, yet give sumptuous
desired.
Hand embroidery is always essentially
smart. The very fact that the work has
been done for and on the special gown
gives it air of dinstinction at once. AS
charming a costume as any have seen is,
for this reason, singled out in my mind.
is outdone by dozen or more. The ma
terial is the always lovely satin-faced
broadcloth in sage green. The skirt Is COM
paratiyely simple and is untrimmed but
and again at the center back, the front
group consisting of ten, the back of twelve,
and each arranged so that half the number
turn one way, half the other, and meet
at the center. The blouse is a genuine
one with a basque extension that passes
under the loose narrow fronts. 1t is cut
blouse and the neck and front edges are
finished with lovely white daisies worked
into the material, the tender white and
gray shaded petals, the yellow centers and
the green leaves making most perfect
picture on the background of quiet sage.
Touches of black still are held smart in
the extreme and assuredly give a chic air
to any gown when rightly handled. A SIM
ply exquisite costume of fine broadcloth
in a tender delicious shade of biscuit exem-
plifies good handling and is itself study
of style. The skirt is comparatively plain.
| laid in narrow plaits at the back and edged
with circular founce, but trimmed only
with stitched bands of the material The
blouse. however. is unique and, In addition
to suggesting perfect handling of the black.
introduces the heavy linen lace that is
such a feature of the smartest gowns.
Slightly full at the back as well as the
front 1t droops just little over the belt
shoulders, at both back and front is a
deep yoke of the heavy lace that takes
just the deep creamy tone of fax not quite
bleached, and into the lower edge of this
yoke is knotted a fringe of heavy linen
thread that falls to the belt. The sleeves
are the favorite ones that are snug at the
shoulders and widen to form full puffs
below the elbows, then are gathered into
narrow cuffs, and these cuffs, as well as
the standing collar and the tiny vest are
all of finely-plaited black chiffon. The belt
of four-inch taffeta ribbons is drawn close
ly round the waist and terminates in a
rosette and two short ends at the back
Whlcn Suggest the pOStllnOn Idea. The lace,
with its deep fringe, is more beautiful and
more truly elegant than mere description
can be made to convey and the bit of black
gives just the touch of character demanded
by the pale biscuit tone On the blouse are
round buttons of gilt overlaid with a
tracery of black
THE NEW MATERIALS.
New and lovely materials appear almost
every week. One of the newest and most
striking of the imported models l have
seen is of a velours so thin and flexible II
has no more weight than panne, yet shows
the tiny ribbed surface of the velours. The
color is the same charming sage green that
that is so deserved a favorite, and the
velours is combined with cloth and made
into three-piece suit The skirt is velours
at the upper, cloth at the lower portion and
| is arranged at the belt in a succession OF
| tiny cord-like ShirrngS that give woke
| effect, below which it falls in soft folds
| The bodice is all OF the velours, with bands
| of Oriental embroidery and a sort of heavy
linen lace, but il is the shirring that makes
the novelty. Over the shoulders, from the
belt at the front to the belt at the hack
and between the rows OF which the blouse
falls soft and full, opening at the front 10
reveal the lace vest The sleeves are the
sort already mentioned. but also are
shirred for half the distance between the
shoulders and elbows until they fit snugly
and give the effect of being one with the
waist. AT the wrists are narrow cuffs OF
Oriental embroidery, which material also
edges the blouse. and falling through the
opened puffs are undersleeves of lace The
whole effect is as unique as IL is beautiful
The shirred waist gives a distinct surplice
effect and, with the sleeves, the long