The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1902-02-23
GOWNS FOR
MI-CARENlE
By MAY .MANT0N..

of gayety, shortly Will nave arrived. AS
a result dinner gowns and visiting gowns
are exciting more interest than has been
the case for several weeks past While
we Of the North keep the season less
strictly than our Southern neighbors, and
while we must travel far to find the
genuine m-careme sport, every plausiu le
excuse for pleasure is seized upon. by
the fashionable world and many festivi-;
ties are being planned. We may not
and probably shall not see big dances
or their accompanying: elaborate gowns
but we will see a number of fresh toll
cts; and, if we are clever, we will gather
many hints of what is to come. Lent.
comes uncommonly early this year. The
fact having cut the season short is ac-5
countable also for the readiness with
which entertainments are being arranged
and the somewhat unusual activity among
dressmakers and taiors.
White in all fabrics, of all weights and
all qualities, is conspicuous favorite.
While lovely gray costumes are in prepa-#
ration and while much tender gray, much
sage green and much black and white
will be worn, costumes Of cream and
pure whtetcan be relied upon in unusual.
numbers. Not youth alone but nature
and middle age also are to be SO CARRIED.
and some marvelously striking effects will
be the result Long, long ago, 1t was
discovered and decreed that color-match-
ing the hair could be relied upon as
bringing out the best in every woman's
face, but only lately have wllite-haired
women worn white for formal dress, yet
numberless heads become snowy while
their owners are still in their prime and
one wonders the fashion was SO long in
coming about From the cradle to the
grave white is appropriate and a kindly
friend. So much has long been known
and understood; but not until white be-
comes general for visiting and theatre
costumes, as well as for balls, dinners
and general house use, was the knowl-
edge applied to costumes deigned for
mothers and young grandmothers still
in their prime White cloth, white vel
vet, heavy white silk are far from over
youthful, and rightly handled, are sim
NV cla~rr,i,,n worn nv women wrcsn
locks have taken a silyery tone. Dig
nifty and grace are, of necessity, united
with the beauty, and both cut and trim
ming arc selected with care, but the
white foundation remains and is charm
ing in the extreme. Only last week a
matron, whose proudest claim is the
little ones who call her grandma, attend
ed 8, dinner gowned in white velvet and
was as charming and attractive as could
be imagined. The skirt, cuS en- traine,
was bordered with a wide applique of lace
edged with marrow bands Of sable, and
the fichu which outlined the yoke Of the
bodice, was finished with a fril1 flare
headed with the fur, while the sleeves
were in bell shape over undersleeves of
chiffon. Neither material, trimming nor
style is open to criticism. They We're
all eminently appropriate and eminently
satisfactory, yet a few years ago VINO
would have dared suggest that white was
the ideal color for women whose youth
belongs to the past?
The younger contingent are preparing
more youthful fabrics Chiffon, mousse
line and the like belong to them and t.
them alone. The latest and most charm
ing gowns have. no silk foundation, bu
are hung over several underskirts of tn
filmy material, the innermost one being
edged with a taffeta frill. The result Is
dainty, fairylike, eXquisitely girlish ant
youthful. Slightly heavier materials are
Liberty satin, louisine silk, crepes nino1
ard dc chine for occasions of forma
dress, wool crepe, albatross, yelling are
sublime for the simpler indoor occasions
and cloth, youthfully treated, for after
noon visits. Even smart neSlisces ar
white. One exquisite model, sent ovei
from Paris, is OF soft-hnishcd satin, will
an edge Of twine-colorE Suipure, full un
derslecves and bertha frill Of tulle. Less
costly models are of yelling inset with
lace, or Of albatross with appliques; but
no color is quite SO elegant as the al
white, although many delioate lpinks
blues and yellows are seen.
Daintiness and perfect freshness are
the watclwords OF the season. Both for
these early gowns and the costumes tina
are to come. Hats, gloves and acces-
series en- suite are in demand, whethe,
the gown be White or in color, and eter-
al vigilance is needful to keep them il
condition. Tulle and laco hats, flower.
bordered, are much in vogue. The petal:
of the flowers as well as the foudatio
material, must be crisp and immaculate
TO be smart. Gloves must give no sig1
OF previous wear. Apparently consid
erations Of cost do not exist, or def
cleaners have helped to solve the prob.
lem, for nowhere does one see a hint OF
either carelessness or neglect. Pear!
gray is charming, and will be much wor1
during the spring. A really lovely i'm
ported MODEL is Of camel's hair trimmed
with bands of cream white kid, cut to
suggest galoon, and is to be worn with
a low flat hat of gray tulle bordered will
boa of lace and tulle. The costume itsei
is made with an Elton with postiI1iof
back and open fronts that reveal u vest
of tucked chiffon banded with lace, anC
a flounced skirt. The tendency is all
toward flounces or flounce effects. an6
much flare below the knees. These gowns
Of mid Lent only seem to emphasize the
fact A noteworthy feature, by the way.
is the use of contrast that is ofen made.
A superb visiting gown in sage greer
broadcloth has the entire founce of satir
and velvet brocade in the color, and man.
similar combinations are seen. Velvet
or silk. brocade with cloth ana the like
appear in many of the best models, an6
may safely be taken as guides. Sati'
with crepe de Chine is one Of the latest
and is peculiarly good. A lovely gown i,
pastel pink has the flounce of satin Sa
pho, while themain portion is Of crepe
the two Joined by an entre-deux Of guip
ure lace with an irregular edge. Beside.
this innovation we are to have folds OF
many widths. The broad bias or crcu-