Oxford Democrat. [volume] (Paris, Me.) 1833-1933, 1902-05-20

the same the skirt lacks the grace and
generous flare of the other models so
much admired. In very thin, gauzy
fabrics the shirred skirts are charming;
as the shirring fits the hips, and the
style is so well suited to the material,
but the beauty of this style of skirt
depends very much on the cut as well,
and there must be some flare to give it
grace of line.
MASCULINE FEATURES sUBDUED.
Femininity in all matters of dress has
full sway, and the masculine features
which dominated few years ago are
almost entirely or are so sub
dued by the softness and daintiness
which prevails that their original pur-
pose is lost sight of. Even the shirt
waist has succumbed to the spirit OF
the hour, and blossomed out into the
daintiest, filmiest white CONNECTIONS, all
tucks and lace.
This is the sort Of dress which men
admire, something which is as far re-
moved from their own as possible. The
wise woman never let's this little truth
escape her entirely, and it does not
matter whether it is a golf suit or ball
gown, the eternal feminine is in evidence
on every side.
Innings.
Innings of the thin gowns are of con-
siderable importance, and it is encourag-
ing to know that silk is not an absolute
necessity. Some very dressy and charm
ing models are made over fine lawn,
which answers every purpose, both for
use and appearance, whether 1t is OF the
same or of contrasting color.
TUCKs.
Despite few stray rumOrs that tucks
are going out of fashion, they are here
in greater variety than ever, especially
for the batiste, muslins and veilings.
Shell tucks are the latest, perhaps, be-
cause most difficult to accomplish; yet
they were used last season but very
rarely. The name is given because they
are in the form of scallops, and combined
with motifs of lace which fit into the
curve, the effect resembles shell.
A skirt model in batiste shows several
groups of these scallops in graduated
sizes, the larger ones just above the hem.
Straight lines of tucks, or lace insertion,
or both may fill in the space between.
The bodice also has the crescent tucks
and broad collar of lace applique and
fine tucked batiste.
Another form of tuck is fold which
is set on to look as much like a tuck as
possible. Folds overlapping one another
make very effective finish for the hem
of circular skirts. You see these folds,
possibly three, directly at the hem of a
yelling skirt, cut with the decided flare,
and above these is a group of narrow
tucks.
FANCY BRAIDs.
Very good effects are made in trim.
ming with the fancy braids, and not only
the fancy varieties, but the simple SOU
tache braid in white silk, the latter
being the only decoration on a white
nuns yelling gown. 1t is stitched on by
machine in cluster of seven rows,
forming a pointed design at intervals
all around the hem of the skirt.
LINEN GOWNS.
The summer gown, which is especially
interesting to every woman with an eye
for the modish thing, is the linen one
Evidently the summer outfit without al
least six linen gowns will be wofully in
complete.
This one fabric seems to fill the place
Of bingham, pique and dimity, and /,
certainly serves the seasons purpose II
being q good foundation for hand en-
broidery, which is the fashionable trim
ming. As for kinds of linen, everything
seems to appear in gown form, even the
crashes, which have assumed a more at
tractive form for this purpose.
They are finer and lighter in weight
than formerly and, trimmed with bands
of smooth linen, make very pretty morn
ing gowns. Some Of the closer wover
linens are uneven in the thread, as u
they were woven by hand, Others ART
smooth and fine; but everything in liner
passes muster this season.
coLoRs.
White heads the list, but there are q
dull green, red pink and varying paste
tints Of blue, all of which are popular
colors, and some of which have been
Numbered so many times that they ART
warranted rot to fade. Polka dots and
rings are embroidered on some of the
dress linens, the latter In black being
especially pretty.
LACE, APPLIQUE AND EMBROIDERY.
Heavy linen laces, and antique lace in
particular, are very much used for trim
ming these gowns. Then there are
applique designs of colored linen on the
white, finished on the edge with small
white cord, besides the irrepressible
stitched bands, but the most elegant OF
all is the hand embroidery.
CHEMIsETTE YOKEs.
Small chemisette yOkes of sheer hand
kerchief linen in hemstitched tucks,
with narrow lace insertions between the
groups, arranged to meet in point in
front, are one of the pretty touches in
the linen gown. The collar band and
cuffs have the same dainty finish.
WHITE LINEN.
The white linen which has tinge of
ecru in it is considered very smart,
trimmed with narrow bands of the new
colored neutrality-suspicious. in mercerized
floss. The bodice Is usually short coat,
a sort of Elton blouse, or a regular blouse
waist on the order of shirt waist.
Either one is correct, and for outdoor
sports linen hats are to be worn with
linen gowns, trimmed simply with q
bunch of flowers on one side. In their
however, they are works of
art, and not at all the tailOr-made variety
we had last season. They are mostly
sailor in shape, stitched and trimmed
with lace and flowers.
THE TUCKED BLOUSE.
Lace and tucks form the yoke of the
tucked blouse, and the sleeves are
tucked at the top down nearly to the
n a.