The courier., 1902-11-29
FASHION

NEW YORK, Nov. 2s.-The popularity
of squirrel as a fashionable fur is likely
to be short-lived. 1t is the fad of the
moment, and though very effective ii is
not sufficiently costly to continue long
I'm favor. Mrs. John Jacob Astor and
one or two other women of fashion have
gowns of it-auto coats and skirts-but
even these. elaborately made, cost only
two hundred dollars, and some less, in
the highest-price fur shops.
Boas and muffs retail on Twenty third
street and Sixth avenue for less than ten
dollars. As a consequence, We shall
doubtless shortly see shop-girls, mani
cures and stenographers arrayed in
these gray pelts. The fact that there is
a still cheaper fur. called genet, so
closely resembling Russian squirrel as
to be distinguished from 1t only by an
expert. makes the. doom of the latter all
the more certain. In color and quality
the furs are almost Identical. They diff
fer only in the size of the skins, those of
the genet being nearly twice as large as
those of the squirrel. Ermine, sable and
baby-lamb continue in favor, and the
furriers are now showing some exceed
ingly handsome garments.
At Fifth avenue shop / saw an ex-
quisite full-length pink silk evening
cloak, appliqued in black cut-velvet flow
ers and lined throughout with ermine.
1t had long, loose sleeves, ermine and
chiffon trimmed, and a superb ermine
collar. Flounces of chiffon and billows
of lace finished the front edges to the
bottom All the new models, with the
exception of a few Paquin velvets have
perfectly loose backs. The Paquin
models, oddly enough, show the tight
fitting backs.
An ermine coat, reaching below the
hips. is made i'm full box style, with a wide
collar, perfectly fat (as are all the lat
est collars), and pointed in the back. The
sleeves are very fancy" as the dress
makers say. There is a tight cap from
the armhole to a depth of about six
inches, which is finished in big scallops.
From there springs a full, very full puff,
also of fur, caught i'm a wide turned
back fur cuff, scalloped to match the cap.
This sleeve is shown on many good
models. and is certainly effective 1t is
not strictly new style, having been a
summers success in lace and chiffon,
but il is novelty in fur and heavy ma
terials.
A coat of Russian imperial sable three
quarter length almost takes away the
breath of the woman who loves rich and
costly things. This is made loose, with
slight ripple about the bottom, and
has the same sleeve as the ermine, save
that each cuff is made of an entire skin
of the sable. The collar is unique. 1t is
short in front, and extends in six side
plaits to the waist in the back, forming
fun f1ap, which is very good style. A
sable cape worth many thousands is
long and full, and finished with wide
dCchesse lace chiffon and sable fiounces,
one over the other
A fine wrap of moire and Persian
baby-lamb was made after the ermine
model, and had sable cuffs and collar
At the cuffs the tail of each sable was
caught in its mouth. believe each sable
skin cost five or six hundred dollars:
they are shown as high as seven hun
dred and fifty apiece. The Deuillet and
Paquin models in black velvet and
cloth are short, and show a little green
or red in combination. I do not think
they can compare with the wraps have
described.
Auto suits and coats are shown in REIN
deer. squirrel. baby-lamb. civet and sable
gilis The latter are made from the
tiny soft throats Of the sable, and shade
from bright yellow to sable brown by
very gradual stages.
Muffs and boas are larger and fiatter
than they have been for years. The