New-York tribune., 1902-05-13
PARIS COOKERY EXHIBIT.
EIGHT HUNDRED EXAMPLES OF THE
CHEFS ART-PRESIDENT LOUBET
PRAISES VIANDS.
PRAISES VIANDS.

larlS, May 5.
The Nineteenth National Cooking Exhibition. held
in the Tuileries Gardens under the auspices OF NJ.
Mllerand Minister Of Commerce-one might fancy
that this particular function might attingly
have devoIved upon the Minister of the Interior
is a decided success and furnished President
Loubet with opportunity make few remarks
that greatly enhanced his popularity and which.
just on the eve Of the general elections has
teriaIy strengthened the situation OF the Repub-
lcan party.
OF plovers' eggs moulded in wine coored jelly of
the purest transparency, served crushed ice and
after drinking glass of fairly dry and excellent
champagne, the President with expression OF
satisfaction and merriment gazed upon the assem-
hled gathering Of gastronomes culinary celebrities
and cooks, and, taking them into his confidence.
said: My good friends, France has worldwide
reputation for good cookery. I am glad to that
YOU making such successful efforts to main
tain our national renown. Retain the classic
hnement Of taste. Let your sauces be simple and
Of the finest ingredients, each with its par
ucular flavor Put your talent in every dish that
comes from the kitchen just the painter
sculptor impresses with his own individual love
and tenderness the works of art that go forth
from the studio 1t is owing to the superior
cellence Of French cookery that plebeans like you
and receive at tables crowned heads
There is nothing Of the snob parvenu about
President Loubet. He Is a man of common sense
wit tact and good taste in every acceptation OF
the term. His friendly advice to the cooks OF
France has gone forth Tar ana VIDE throughout the
land with the force OF an imperial ukase, and has
ELECTED sympathy in the provinces, where the gen
erous. pondeTous and succulent cuisine eO-
ouently described by Rabellais, by Balzac and by
Paul de Kock still reigns supreme. not yet de-
Perforated by the modern innovations introduced
into Partisan taverns by the German beerhouse
with highly spiced condiments and fish OF
Shiny aspect that come from the Baltic the
North Sea in mysterious little wooden kegs.
The cooking exhibition in the Tuieres Gardens
o,rar Glass
compartments of ice cold air hold thrtynine dishes
OF fish, each prepared with great simplicity and
taste. There to be one hundred and thirty
methods OF serving roast beef. Scores of salads.
ices, sweets and cooked fruits appeal TO the eye
as well as to the tongue. The cOnfectiOners art
Is represented 10y one hundred and fifty works beau
tifully fashioned in sugar Of impressionist hues
and Of statuesque forms and dimensions. Santos
Dumont balloons figure prominently in this section
Among the exhibitors the chefs of the most
renowned restaurants of Paris. such as those OF
Marguerite Voisin Paillard. Marie, FOyot, Durand,
Larue Henri. Pruner. Laperouse and Leydoyen.
There few new dishes that call for special
notice, but the way Of serving plovers' eggs on
crushed ice is a pleasing novelty. The eggs are
first poached and then surrounded by delicate
calvesf6ot jelly. Little specks Of pepper, salt
and sliced parsley inserted in the white OF the
egg. so that when through the transparent
jelly they look just if the tiny little eggs still
had their shells A favorite way of serving
crawhsh is have them finely minced into a sort
OF supreme and then placed in large Daked
potato. dish quite I'm demand just now is lon
Of spring lamb accompanied with asparagus points.
Poached eggs in PURGE Of crawtish or in puree
OF lobster are frequently called for.
A singular culinary feature of the present sea
is the tendency TO eat more copous luncheons,
while the dinners are becoming shorter ana llghter
This is largely owing TO the prevailing ldteneSS
OF the dinner hour. which is now from $50 TO g.
This necessitateS A very brief repaSt unless the
entire evening is to be sacrificed to the meal 1t Is
the fashion nowadays 10 arrive at the theatres
after the first act-a custom highly deprecated by
thea trical managers well by dramatic au-
thors actors and actresses. 1t is feared that In
accordance with the law OF supply and demand
comedy nor drama will be forthcoming. in which
the first act will degenerate into preliminary nom
sense instead Of being, IN accordance with true
MoleresGue tradition explanatory presenta-
ton Of the characters and motive Of the play.
President LOubet during his official Visit to the
cooking exhibition chatted freely with the COOKS
2 and even with the marmtons. or sculhons He sur
prised those who accompanied him by MS thorougn
knowledge Of culinary art. NJ. Loubet examined
a sauce. and, taking spoon ana tasting IL, sald:
"Ah, find that the basis Of this - sherry ana
estragon; excellent idea, for sherry Is 10 my
taste prefera BILE madeira, which Is usually used
IN this combina ton" Then walking up 10 the 1sh
department President Loubet remarked What a
noble goldfish, good. plain boiled codfsh, with
hard dish TO beatt prominent dish Of fish IN
the hsh section consisted OF the skins OF tench
Tried in butter and arranged so as 70 make a PIE
crust for a foundation OF minced haddock ana SOLE
cooked with oysters and cream sauce.
French cooks have also taken leaf from corn
and wheat and -four exhibits Of the United States
at the Worlds Fair of 1900 The French now utilize
wheat and grain in little granulated packages or
as a sort Of thickening for soups The "fromen-
tne Is turned into the soup kettle ten minutes be
fore serving.
"Asakoora nori." or japanese edible seaweed. has