Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1902-12-21

1Aio
expression Of this. peculiar to the 'Eter-
nal CITY" When our old Virginia house
keeper is beginning to stone ralslns, chop
apples and citron, preparatory TO COM
rounding the good things for which she
is SO justly famous, our Roman nassala
is taking her duties more serenely, as
large part Of this work is done Tor ner
by the pastry cook; and well ne Goes ~.
too. You see, a Roman kitchen with It's
primitive stone range, containing small
holes where charcoal is burnt. is not very
compatible with baking. Usually this
room Is the tinest In the house and dark
with SCOT, for though the chimney is
large enough for the entire range, the
smoke seems to prefer going evryWhre
save up It. Sometimes small Dutch
oven is used, but generally meats. fowls,
and cake are sent to the public bakery.
where for a mere trifle they are salts
factorily cooked and returned. Some
times the roast beef is brought back
minus the potatoes, which the small boy
carrier has eaten as his perquisite. The
walls are hung with red peppers, tomatoes
and long strings Of onions, wnlle the
shelves where the copper and earthenware
utensils stay are gay with bright papers
the cooks fancy and sissors having been
allowed to play on the scallopinG OF
these.
On the window flourish thyme, parsley,
and other herbs, for Italian seasoning
is an art The savory stews and ragouts
which come from this dingy apartment
are dishes to make one In love with life
and not even seventh COUSINS 10 GUY
American hash.
Bv the middle Of December the con-
fectioners spread long tables before their
windows draped in white. On these are
placed the Christmas Specialties. when
are "torrone" and "pangialo,' the first
is soft nut candy, half cream half Money
succulent and satisfactory. These are
done up in bright picture packages, vary
ing in size from half an inch to SIX, TO
suit each purchasers purse.
alphabetically yellow bread-ls
happy edition of our fruit cake. w. w.
Story gives It's genealogy by saying that
its mother was plum-pudding and Its
father almond candy; it takes after both
The hard nuts which one occasionally
strikes. greatly endangers the teeth but
teeth become OF no Importance. COM.
pared to the joy OF such food.
The display is great for the "Pansfaill
are iced in every conceivable design OF
white and pink sugar, done up ready for
the parcel-post.
AS with US. this is tho season for
settling up of old debts OF courtesy or
hospitality. In Italy you remember your
friend with this dainty. Every citizen
eats "pangiallo,'' no matter if they have
to pawn their earrings afterwards. It is
the custom for your baker to give you
a "pangiallo."
The Christmas holidays are ushered
in by the trades people calling and wish
Ing you 'buone feste." These pleasant
greetings must be received graciously
and returned by q money gift. Every
retainer who has, or ever has had, any
claim on your good will or charity now
Nd
wish. When one is housekeeping, these
good wishes become quite an item of
expense, for their name is legion. The
charcoal bringer, the garbage man, the
milk boy the washerwoman, mail-car-
riers telegraph boys, and others all have
to be tipped" You may think you have
remember all. but there is always one
more. so that you actually hate to hear
the door-bell ring. On the other hand,
a few coppers are all that are required,
and you get some of the sweetest smiles
in reward. for Italy is the land OF sun
shine and bright faces. I usually con-
sidered "buone feste" akin to fire crack
ers. for they are just as startling and
prof3tless save to those who send them
off. Your friends servants call. too. and
must be feed" likewise. I believe that
in many Of the princely families servants
seek places now simply for the fees"
they expect and get
Christmas eve is strict fast. and only
fish sweets are partaken Of One of
the great sights is TO visit the fish mar
ket, which is situated under the shadow Of
the ruins Of the Palace of the Caesars.
It has gotten to be rather a fad for the
Smart set" to personally conduct the
purchase OF their fish. SO that many are
the private carriages to be seen waiting
at the gate. The night of the 23rd of De-
cember at the market Is open to the
public, while at - the auction commences,
often lasting all night Some wag, Of
quick wit and tongue. presides. while
bright saliIes and repartees come from
the other vendors. Though prosaic gas
has superseded the tlambeauN. the scene
is picturesque In the extreme. Baskets;
hampers. tubs and stone troughs innum-
cradle are full of fish, fish, fish, and fish;
more than you ever saw before in your
life, for on the morrow, the whole city
must eat fish. Those who cannot afford
it will have dried "baccala,' or haddock
boiled aud seasoned with vinegar and
salt.
Christmas eve night there are family
reunions to enjoy the "cenone," or big
supper. This is an elaborate dinner. con-
sisting of number Of courses Of fish
and Of fish only, SO that the chefs inge-
nuity IS put to the test contriving differ
ent sauces and manner of serving them.
Then dessert follows Of two or more
varieties. There is no hanging up of
stockings tonight, for the Roman chill
oren. as this does not come for them until
Epiphany. or Twelfth-N1ght Eve. Christ
mas Is essentially a religious festival At
midnight every church bell rings out to
tell Of the birth OF the holy babe, and
mass Is said In the principal churches.
followed by music. AT San Luigi DEF
Francesi, the front doors are closed and
one enters from the sacristy. having OBJ
tanned free tickets before from his Excel
lency.
In many families. rs weN rs churches.
there are 'tpsrserpN or representations
OF the nativity. The poorer people have
small toy stables in bed OF ever
green with queer little earthenwAre figures
OF the Virgin surrounded by cows and
horses. The most complete ''presepio'' is
at the Church Of the Ara Coell which IL
, q IL = - All