Evening star., 1902-03-22

sIarfai correspondents or The Evening star
PARIS, March 8. 1902.
Not less interesting than spring gowns
is the subject of spring lingerie; one of
these influences the character of the
other. Until woman knows just how
her new skirt is to hang she cannot be
assured Of what to select in the way of
petticoats.
Happily the spring and summer skirt has
been authoritatively defined, and the inspec-
tion of 'jupes." as the French call petit
coats. may go merriy on.
large and handsome assortment of such
lngerieS will be imperative during the COM
ing season for any woman who aspires to
be We'll dressed. This Is partly due to the
projected popularity of diaphanous stuffs
and partly 10 the great vogue of wash ma
terials for underskirts. Silk and moreen
are practically relegated to obscurity. In
place of them white lawn and cambria
skirts elaborately trimmed with lace are
shown in all the great shops.
The style of a gown is so greatly inf1u-
enced by the lingerie that at least one of
the great modistes during the present de-
mand for eel-like garments endeavored to
promote the success of a princess under
garment. including a petticoat and a corset
cover Camisole in one piece.
! was shown a model of this the other
day when | dropped into a shop to look over
the latest spring fabrics. The petticoat
was what madame called the princess, and
there was nothing about the waist to de-
tract from its SmoothneSS. dart and sew
eral narrow plaitS mold the waist to the
shape. Cut low about the neck and edged
with ruching of lace, the shoulder straps
of ribbon give touch Of dantiness to the
bodice. The hounCe of the skirt, shaped in
graduated length from front to back. is
also headed with lace ruching. Fine
white lawn batiste was the material Sc
lected for the model
divided cL;r+e Ao,;n
Another modiste. a maker of tailored gar
ments, recommends the modified divided
petticoat because it permits a graceful car
riage, since its folds will not impede the
figure In walking. One of the models of
this skirt was of the new pompadour silk
plentifully iOwered with pale blue and
trimmed below with two deep fiouuCes of
frosty lace. The skirt was cut in eight
pieceS-tWO for the front, two for the sides.
two for the back and two small circular
sections to form the yoke in front. Main
sook. surah, lawn or batiste appear to eX-
ceilent advantage in this divided skirt, al
though it is only fair to warn those who
think of adopting it that it is likely TO
Cause many difficulties for the laundress
who is compelled to iron it. White silk.
which requires no ironing, is the most de-
sirabie stuff for pettiCOat of this type.
Cambria skirts trimmed with Vandyked
founceS headed with bands of insertion and
ornamental borders wrought from the same
Insertion are pretty. Cambria trimmed with
deep. tucked founce garnished with lace
ana insertion Is another variety of the wash
skirt, The handsomest of the cambria pet
t,natS shows a iiounce comprising half it's
depth and composed of vertical inSettingS
Of >haped insertions alternated with tucked
sections of cambria. Another design shows
a skirt ornamented with a narrow Van
dyked hounce of cambria and lace headed
by a wide band consisting of diagonal strips
of lace and cambric tuckings. Lace 6ounces
are exploited on high-priced lingerie. Mar
r.,al ci1
utilized on the same skirt. A novelty in
troduced is the use of band of insertion
between each fiounce, a marked space being
allowed to intervene.
Laces and Ribbons.
Swiss embroideries and Valenciennes and
torchon laces are the most admired trim
mings for understands. When ribbons
applied in any shape the washable satin
quality is preferred
The camisoles combined with these white
petticoats match in pattern the trimming
upon the skirts. RIchngs applied to the
bust give flare to fiat-chested figures.
while bolero edged with fril and COW
cred with an inserted pattern in lace is re-
Earded the most effective finish for
thin figure.
Petticoats of the non-washable type are
made of taffetas, Surah brocadeS, glaCe
silk. moreen. mercerized sateen and black
nlohair. The silk and cotton skirts are
trimmed according 10 taste, the simpler
grades being adorned only with three or
four narrow flOunccS deep, plated
founce finished off with narrow, ruffied
y stiff cording about the knees pre-
serves the shape of the cheaper skirts.
Every welI-dressed woman should own at
least one silk skirt. Besides this she ought
to have a moreen one for ordinary wear,
and several of the washable sort for best
gowns and wash frocks are advisable. 1t
IS better TO eConomize in some other way
than To endeavOr to do so with petticoats.
The beauty of the French womans toilet is
that ii is just dainty and complete un-
derneath it is outside.
The Open Mesh Weaves.
Open mesh fabrics are among the pref
tiest of the seasons offerings A wool
canvas in silver gray made up over gray
taffeta is one of the handsomest of the