The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1902-10-19
SOME MODERN LACES
AND THEIR ANCESTORS

WRITTEN F6R TIE SUNDAY EEPUBLIc
From thy time II IN EEarauhs Until TO
day the love ~ fine lace has boen COMMON
20 women OF al countries. aud the making
~ it - enc q the oldest arfs- II Was IN"
custom t~hocsaGCs OF years tso f0r Egypt
ian women 10 ply the needle. bobbiu- or
shuttle rs o. is sam. n Isaiah We find tn
description. They that work in hne Ia
END they hat weave net WORKS From tins
the conclusion has been drawn that netting
was the primitive pa: IN. Fragments e
ant net. krotted Ike fish netting and close
ly woven bands Ot papyuIs fiber have been
found i1 tomhs and on mummy wrapping
usp"ndiue 49, the Egyptians dld-upon fish
and frair Tor the p%rincln4l articles Of food.
t-- Industry uf weaving thes- coarser nets
formed The Inspiration and Example Tor finer
wssk. for which they used the materials az
hand. fax and fiber.
After the plain nel and woven cloth stitch
the loz uEe pattern AMI inrrr- citing bands
were produced. open work followed. and
many bits OF highly c0lUTed linen iaces dat
lex back as FAR as ten retturi-s h. G.. are
r0und.
Then. aF 10 tho NiIdie Asrs and at the
pr seut DAY. quantities ot lace were worn
BY royalty and high d!gui.lrcS 10 has
always BEEN "a mark n r,dasm-n:. f1r only
the refined knew and apprrc.a;r is value.
Moreover. fine lace IS aiwayF iu good .sste.
LACEs MADE F0R ROYALTY.
So5le OF tire finest example 90 the SIX
tenth and Seventeenth Crr-ur.-F are the
aces wuven Tor Pop-s AMI kilss Many
women -wou'd spend years uIsal a single
piece. viewing into 81 the JOYS 81 pass ng
youth ard scrrows Of Old age. This was
especially true OF the nuns. shut on f-um ,
the world they would BEGIN soHie vescneat
for the Pope or for the altar 90 the Virgin
or the patron saint. at the same tme t"icH-
ing tn ncviccs. When their eyrs became
- - -|--.-H - ha- N@~.- Hr.nHwaa HhI
would pass Il on TO their best pupil The
pupH. ErcVn OLD. passed 70 on TO another,
and 80 ore sirsle article often represents
the lives 81 several women.
Y side the conventional floral and seomet-
ricai designs woven iut1 this himy fabric
there w--a many emhisrae Indicative OF the
virtues or FALLING " the one whom IL waste
adorn. CtuTch- lace had almost universally
"a close background with the signs % the
Trinity. tie apostles cr tn r-i,.ni1g Pom
III ~ relief. Tkis close Het stitch j. not
now resyricted TO laces designed Tor III
church. bur forms q part % she fashionable
womaa'- dress, Napoirop wore a crava' OF
Venetian Tuint decorated with bees. his
owu cipher. and lad a scarf ~ point dAleu-
CON. powdered over ia the same manner.
made fo- the Empress Marie Louise.
When Queen Nirtoria was married sAe
wore Il ven Of Honitoa. her favorit- lace.
ard The Princess Royal Ohr D1was-r En-
press ~ GtrruarI wore lt her marriage a
Vel af tha sam. exquisite lace designed n
meiauicns. c~srrylr- the national towers
Oh. rose. thistle ani shamrock Hon-5On lace
is distinguished by the 1oz. uge SHAPE which
enters largely into its design. The ornJ-
usu,s ar first made. then placed on a nj
around. Il this ErcuNd be- handmade. with
either bol8ius or q me- die. the aushed piece
IS ve-v galuable. because of tire length %
tim. nee sary 10 make o.. Usually. how
ever. IL Is applied 20 "a machine net.
An ftcss are known as rr-die point. bob
Kin or mathIu- rr..-. THe needle point and
h-bh,n laees ar, made over a bolster-shap~d
rflew. which rests en- a stand. The pattern
a-miy fastened or thr pillow Iad pegged
81 II all inters-ctians and dvylauOpS OF out
Iue. In add out. over aud under. the bah
hius are then passed between the iengthWlse
threads IL a needle Is used the single
needle carrying one th-est does the WorK
~ The many bOuh.ns. Both laces are h-ld
loosely ia the hands during the worSins-
Machine lace IS the result Of mechanical
a.i-iiauceS regulated 20 Initiate the hou-
product Or skilled workwomen- When
~.toiie-" or the braid pattern. Is applied -
machine -ets beautiful Lace often Is OBJ
tanned. ami IL il. q course. Tar les eApen-
sive than that made entirely by hand
Needle point. or one-thread lace. uslall~
Is spcken Il as the Oldest form. although
there are other theories. The bobptn lace
was Invented and made BY the Italians for
many years UfaNEE II wa ERNANA IA 0NAN-
countries. It's introduction into FLANDERS.
from which Il spread into other parts Of
Northern Europe. is credited 10 the thrifty
wife Of a wealthy mine owner. Barbara Utt-
man. This was In lsSI. when the peasants
were soreiy oppressed and In need OF find
ing new means OF earning their livelihood
Thus b. one waman-s philanthropy an In
dustrv NaA established which spread is in
fuence over all Euro1e. Flanders became
known a. the center Of lacemaking and lent
its art to other countries In the seven
teenth Century France became a rival This
caused a law 70 be passed IN Flanders pro
hibitinc lacemakers from crossing the
boundaries. Many had already emigratsd.
however. and had settled In France because
OF the higher wages prevailing there Col
bert. the Prime Minister OF Louis XIV.
who had determined 10 increase the reve-
nues Of the country. offered inducements
TO Italian and Flemish workers to teach
-Freuchwomen- At first the F-renchwomep
did not take kindly to the enforced labor.
but later they became extremely skillfuL.
They followed the designs OF the Italians
80 closely that the early point de France
closely resembles Venetian point. This was
when France was beginning TO lead In mat
tiers OF fashion. Point de France later be-
known a. point dAiencon. and Is dis