The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-01-18
FOR FEMININE READERS
A FEW IDEAS ABOUT THE FASHIONS
IN SLEEVES AND SKIRTS.
The Dining Is the Truest Index of the
FamiIy-EcOnomy in Buying-A
Trained Nurses Advice.

The pretty sleeves seen on many of the
full-dress toilets are in many instances but
a following up Of the artistic styles which
were introduced late in the autumn and
which will appear on court dresses worn at
the coming English coronation. says a
writer in the New York Post. The Alex
andra is an elbow sleeve with gauntlet re-
vers of jewelled embroidery, with a
wrinkled mousquetaire forearm of mousse
line brilliants. The Victorian sleeve is bell
shaped at the elbow, and finished with a
full-gathered undersleeve of lace or net.
The early Florentine model is close-ftting
from shoulder TO knuckle, with slashlngs
and lacings up the outside of the arm. The
Venetian sleeve is slightly pulled on the
shoulders, widening somewhat at the ell
bow, with chiffon undersleeves embroid-
cred in gold threads and gathered with a
narrow band of gold-lace insertion, or pearl
and gold passementeries. The Gretchen
sleeve is slashed and laced also. The Capu-
let style, of India silk, is close-htting all
its shimmering length, save at the elbow,
where it has a pretty Juliet puff of satin
or velvet.
The ruling idea for street costumes this
season is to nave the appearance of not
being dressed for absolute winter weather,
with, however, all the necessary warmth
supplied, but so cleverly disguised that 1t
is not apparent TO the uninitiated observer.
There are interlinings of fine, thin, but
protective chamois skin or soft French
flannel in the jaunty little Etons ana
bOleros, or waist-portions or the surtouts
or newmarkets. The t"hree-quarter coats
nave not had the general following that
was predicted for them early in the season.
The great majority of fashionable women
are either clad in d cloth suit With fancl-
full vest beneath the little jacket-a dress
which apparently might be worn In the
balmy weather of autumn or spring except
for the fur accessorles-or they are enVeI-
oped in one of the very fashionable long
garments which completely covers the
gown.
one of the pretty house blouses for morn
ing wear is made Of hd-iniShed cloth In
pale blue, sage green, or Roman red. 1t has
usually a French back tucked TO meet in a
point at the middle seam, il so preferred, or
it is quite plain. The front is tucked on
either side in yoke fashion TO bring some
fullness across the bust, and it opens over a
vest of pleated white liberty satin. The
edges are finished with a stitched band of
satin or panne matching the cloth; The Ma
pOleon collar, sleeve bands and belt are also
of the stitched material.
All the winter muffs OF fur and velvet are
large, and those of velvet are made in many
quaint styles. Some for very dressy occa-
slOns are generously trimmed with cream
cOlOred lace and sable tails, the NelNet
usually matching the gown in color. The
imported directoire muffs are made of vari-
Gus kinds of costly fur. AS a rule they are
notably plain in style, but very eXtrava-
CANT as to the quality of the fur and the
jeweled gold chains by which they are suS-
pended from the neck.
A pretty skirt model for crepe de chine is
arranged all around in two-inch box plaitS
caught down closely with lace insertions,
finished on the edge with gathered baby rib
bon. A frill of white point d'esprit, also
edged with the lace insertion and ribbon, is
added at the hem, the crepe de chine being
cut out underneath. This frill falls over one
of plated white chiffon, which in turn
covers the knife plating on the silk under
skirt.
A Paquin skirt without any trimming at
all is sent over among the advance Easter
models, but a real novelty Is shown among
the coming spring styies-this is princesse
small! tucks, which extend into bretelle-like
shapes over the shoulder. En- suite with this
skirt is a tucked and closely fitted shirt
waist of black and white peau de sole,
trimmed with black velvet ribbon and black
velvet buttons.
The fullness of the latest winter skirts is
carried well 10 the back beneath under
folded pleats, and they are narrowed at the
top and are hatter at the sides; consequent
ly they, hang better than did the skirts cut
completely on the bias or circular form,
which generally got out of place after short
service; and when the material was heavy
never hung we'll even at first.