Omaha daily bee., 1902-08-10
sweet sixtsen is tRe Important
Factor in August Dressmaklne.

Factor IN Augmat DreaHmaktmgs
NEW YoaK, Aug. s.-Autumn is the
month when the mother Of daughters be-
rims 20 brood over the serious problem Of
autumn school clothes. Whatever age she
h, mamma wants missy to look her best;
svery sensible mother realizes that an un-
becoming or inadequate wardrobe Is the
sause Of much youthful suffering. Especially
h this the case with girls removed from
he resourccful Influences OF home, maid
Ems pursuing their studies in distant schools
and colleges, where the steady need to
appear we'll, not to speak Of dress rivalries,
necessarily spurs the virgin MIND TO
thoughts OF clothes.
As to the number Of gowns required by the
boarding school girl. It apparently all de-
Ponds upon the pretentions Of the house
" learning. At many places the dressing
Is much too fine, too often changed and too
suggestive In general Of the frivolities OF
the grownups. But, happily. an effort is
being made TO change this. and following
lhe lead Of the sensible French, the direct
resses Of several New York boarding
schools Of long established prestige now
limit the school wardrobe. Two going-out
gowns are allowed, but they need not nee
~sssarily be black, as the French usually
insist. Then four frocks for lessons. two
evening t~cilettes and eight OF every article
Df underwear.
Hats are supposed to number three and
be suitably simple In style. but there are
no restrictions on lesser accessories. which
may be as numerous and as elegant as the
pensionaire can AFFORD.
Two "class aprons" are required by one
Fifth avenue school. These must be
black, the materials alpaca OF silk and the
apron long enough to cover the entire
front Of the gown. The prettiest OF the
class aprons are gored and finished at the
bottom with a deep Eounce headed by
sucks. Red Russian embroiderles and
coarse lace insertions (black torchon pre-
ferably) deck some Of the silk ones, and
the girl fond OF sashes has her apron
strings euficiently long and. wide to tie
In q big bow ct the back. In such little
ways may much coquetry be achieved and
= trying emblem turned into an adorn-
ment.
There have been few changes from the
past season in fashions for school girls.
The gowns now being made ali show the
influence Of summer models, skirts run
ming to the side pleats found so graceful
and becoming. with blouse bodices, sport
ing fancy sleeves and ornamental Jokes.
for the upper garment.
Material for Frocka.
In the way Of material, the frocks for
arst wear are Of lighter weight stuns than
those for later use. For long-skirt maid
ems the daintiest little dresses are seen
in figured chaiiies. trimmed with bands Of
plain color. These are delightful to wear.
the soft, delicate atufs contributing little
to weight and defying wrinkles.
In color effects the new cnaiIies surpass
anything seen before, some OF the Persian
pattern introducing many tints. and are Of
fndescribable beauty. The old blues aad
white and reds and white are also seen.
A smart get-up Just turned out for a
Bryn Mawr girl IL OF challie in thie sty-
iish combination. The skirt Is in circular
shape with three bands OF plain blue, fol-
lowing an eccentric pattern some distance
from the bottom. In fact, a shaped founce
IL suggested By this trimming. which en-
circles the jupe at the usual ffounce quar-
ter. The blouse bodice, which fastens at
the back. begins with a tucked yoke in
plain blue, the upper portion Of sleeves
the same. Below this is the spotted chal-
lie. more bands forming a bust and shout
aer trimming and shaping an odd girdIe
effect just above the belt. This and the
stock are Of bright parrot green ribbon.
the hat which will accompany this effective
rig carrying out the same blue and green
scheme. IL Is OF white felt braid In one
Of the summers very fiat crownless shapes.
Trimmings, two blue and green parrot
wings, laid nat at the top. with a soft bow
OF green panne between: an inch-wide bias
Of this edges the wide brip. Another ef-
~fective little gown Of figured .challIe has a
pattern OF black leaves on q scarlet back
ground. Marrow black satin ribbon, trac-
ing diamonds, which on the bodice inclose
tucked pieces Of plain scarlet chaliie, Is
the decoration for this. The neck Of the
waist, which is the usual blouse shape
with back fastening, is cut out. A plain
band OF the ribbon finishes 1t, and bows sre
put at the points OF the diamonds IN the
yoke, whose latticed arrangement Is re-
peated at the outside Of the elbow sleeves.
A sash with long ends. Of black satin
ribbon. Is the graceful waist finish.
Ecru white, the tint that is more brown
than white. realizes q third charming
frock, whose sole ornamentation Is shir-
ring. The bodice yoke Is made entirely
Of this, several rows holding down the
tops Of the pulled sleeves to produce the
fashionable lonE-shouldered effect. The
bottoms Of the sleeves are shlrred in
esep cunH and three rows of this trim
ming head q straight skirt iounce.
LiEht weights in Eavor.
For sehooi girls Of all ages light weight
chsviots. covert cloths. serges ana ian-
neis will Be fashionable street stufs.
Much tailor stitching will continue to trim
these materials. as well as bands OF plain
eioth and taneta and plain and fancy
routache braids. Black will remain a fire.
uuant adornment for color. and on frocks IN
son stufs narrow watered ribbons viii be
used In grouped rows. Bands Of wafered
silk and tiny ~siik-covored buttons-used in
eoniunction-are also predicted trimmings.
The roady-made street suits for girls
above "a are all built on the lines OF
maturer costumes. There are the same
Eton coats and skirts with shaped aounees.
the same picturesque sleeves, the same
dainty eiousing vests. with only a shorten
ing Of skirts and q modincaliin Of trim
ming to prove the costume for the younger
hy.
A loose. short jacket. With an odd. sailor