Daily Kennebec journal., 1902-04-22

| there is likely to be special oefilaiiu'
and these are of every size, from
quarter of a yard to very few lncnes
! in depth. Irish lace of the puSeSt
white tone frequently mingles WITH
| deep ecru, lawn, or with guipure, and
deep vandykes occur in many OF the
lawn embroideries and in the laces, the
| treatment being specially new IN val
| enciennes. Soft laceS are much the
mode, especially when accompanied by
similar material by the piece for max
| ing entire dresses or a portion OF them.
Fan-shaped motifs form the edglngs to
many of the Iaces, and some recall a
highly ornamental hair comb. Lawn
and Maltese lace mingle together, and
| in many of the embroideries old point
lace has been carefully copied; indeed,
| it is quite impossible to dwell too much
on the intricacies Of these patterns.
Grass lawn of a decided holland color
forms the groundwork to many OF the
new garnitures embroidered IN pure
white flax thread, and also inter-
| mingled with lace and pompadour
sprays in silk of natural colorings.
Ecru and white insertions for flouncing
show inter- -lacing rings, and muslin IN
pure white or cream is often en-
broidered onto ecru filet grounds
Some bold and beautiful sprays in
| the duchesse lace are intermingled
with Irish designs, and Irish and Cluny
are blended together in bold effective
patterns for the trimming of skirts
The darned laces of long ago have been
resuscitated on filet grounds, as well as
on the very finest meshed net, and
many of the designs are inspired from
those of the Louis XIV. period, not for
getting the true lovers knot. Some of
the most beautiful borderings for
gowns have ecru centres surrounded by
white embroidery or white lace, and
the new art asserts itself in conven-
tional roses on their long stems and
other similar devices. Many of the
beautiful patterns in point Gaze ap-
pear alone or intermingled with other
laces.
A new idea are the indented patterns,
which show TO great advantage in such
designs as punches of lilac blossoms.
Here the pattern is worked solid, and
by the aid of machinery so indented is
each petal that it has quite a new as
pect. In contradistinction to this,
ovals and circles are worked in bold
relief and here and there a linen effect
is introduced into the laces and min
giles with grass lawn. Taffeta, too
blends with guipure and Estruscan de-
signs in lace, and on these the chintZ
embroidered flowers are singularly
beautiful. Mixtures of heavy guipure
and point d'Alencon have very happy
result whether it be in continuous
trimmings, detached squares, ovals,
diamonds, or circles; while some of the
fancy filet grounds display flowers in
solid embroidery. Many of the most
beautiful examples in the new indented
laces have fine net grounds, and we
have to thank Switzerland for a great
many of the most notable of these
garnitures. This nation is not only in
dustrious, but quick in catching IDEAS
and, while depending on Paris for
many of the patterns, they are able to
originate their own. fine trelliS
groundwork blended with muslin en-
broidery makes a good background to
Cluny laceS, recalling the most ornate
period of dress, when everything COM
bined to create the maximum of effect
The Carrickmacross patterns are
often set on cobweb grounds, but the
finest net imaginable would seem to
have the preference for all kinds and
varieties of lace, tambour included, and
fine darned laces in fourishing thread
floral conventional patterns being up
permost. The needle run laceS have a
special beauty.
Saxony contributes many en-
broideries and many varieties of lace.
We are still employing the mauresque
class, which is inexpensive, but it is
not SO much used alone as with an in
termixture of a light guipure. Brus-
sells lace patterns have been faithfully
copied and intermlXed with the open
Broderic Anglaise and the lawn en-
broideries. There is a demand for
many light makes of lace for millinery,
as also for very wide f1ounces for
dresses. Nottingham has been busy
producing q long range of fashionable
laces, such as Valenciennes, Mechlin,
and other capital kinds, and with these
is what, in trade parlance, is called the
'all ovefs,' namely, similar stuffs by
the yard for dresses. Richly en-
broidered entire skirts of a filmy ma
ture have been prepared largely, and
are ready for wearing.
We have not abolished the palette,
but we are treating it in many new
ways. A beautiful example is a black
net worked with black net seQuins
with a ground of most minute steel
ones, the combination being glittering
and effective. Many of the white lace
dresses have bold guipure motifs on
the upper portion, and a couple of full
crepe flounces at the hem covering a
depth of about half a yard, while chf-
fon dresses are many of them en-
broidered all over with Renaissance
designs and heavy stemwork of sill
yer paillettes.