Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1902-09-13

river. The grand nlbeflan dtlehhlS ""'N
no such place in their affection These
flow TO the sterile north, but the Nolga'
sowing east by south, and in spring
tide flooding vast reaches Of the black
earth stcppes, Is the bountllul hu'Se
OF Europe's biggest granarles'
Having enjoyed various voyages vi
the Danube and the Volga, mlshl eas.
,ly yield 10 the temptation 10 compare
The two. The Volga has none OF Ihe
scenery which ennoble the 'plaue DO
nau' In many OF its reaches ana GENES,
IN the Transylyanla and Carpathiail
districts. but II has charm an lts
own. A sense Of grandeur comes oves
the mind of the traveller who starts
where the river begins 20 be naylgab,e
for good steamers. 1T Rybinsk, and fol-
lows its course day after day and night
after night, for whole week. I'll ne
reaches Caspian. One soon surrenders
10 that placid indetinable, imperlai
claim of superiority to everything else
that the continent can show In compe-
tItlon with this majestic stream by
which IN all nineteen great provinces
are watered.
The Volga Is summer stream. us
course Is only open for seven months,
from the end OF April to about the emu
Of the second week In November. But
the Russians love it as much In winter
us I'm summer, for IN their glorious,
bright and enchanting season OF snow
and ice they find II magnificent hlgh-
way for alelghs, lineikas and trolkas,
and on Il from a thousand villages theY
como down to hold singular services,
such az the blessing Of the waters
end the "Baptisms In the Volga' but
the ordinary traveller, wanting 10 tfo-
verse the whole Of the center OF Euro
pen Russia can never do so IN any
more delightful manner than by lels-
urely studying the life prevailing IN
Binguarly picturesque variations, 1rs'
IN the upper course Of the river, IRON
Ryblnsk to Mini Noygorod; then In tLe
great middle section between MINI
Noygorod and Ka2an; and, lastly, IN
the imposing, wide-spreading love-
reaches dcrn to Astraghan. In all
these stages he will find the mighty
volume OF the Volga alive with mani
festations OF the activity OF vast eh'.
pire. The water communications OF
Russia are all but perfect, and an enor-
NOUS proportion Of It's heavy trafhc IL
managed on the great rivers ana the
tnrerlacing canals.
M,,l,ltudinous sand banks and islands
constitute n notable feature Of the
Volga throughout its whole course.
Most of these disappear In the spring,
when the ice is all melted, and the ue-
mendous floods sweep over that mar
Vicious 'back earth zone OF steppes
which is almost entirely confined 10 the
ragions NJ Inc oountr,. along the left
hank Tho right or southern, bank. is
for many hundreds OF miles elevated
FAR above the opposIte side. This
strange characteristic gives Singh
lar asnect 10 the river on account of
its great bends and constant winnings.
Very often Inc voyaper imaglnes that
the course Is nresentlv 10 lie between
ranges of hills He finds as the iour-
new unrayels that the heights are all on
ono sIde MANY of the villages and
towns on that side thus present quite
n commnndlnp aspect on a ridge OF
about lb0 feet viii be seen n number Of
cburcbes each with Ave domes. fash
inb with pold I'm the radiant sunlight
md with crosses towerIng above the
enpolas Probably the little town thus
adorned consIsts mainly OF srav wood
hui, huts Or ON The othe bank viii be
seen n flne forest with lts rich. green
expanse FURNISHING n contrast to the
Line bosom of the broad stream. out of
The midst ~ that grand hoscaee of
bIyches or oaks or mines win surely
be seen soaring nm some sacred edlace.
often The walls of the churches are
white the roofs blue the cupolas green.
and the crosses silyered or qIlded
The steamers are splendid and are
tbe only craft built in Europe which re-
semble tha grand Mlsslssippi steam-
boats EVERY American visitor ia
charmed nj Tho similarity. AT Mini
Novgorod Won change from the smaller
boat I'm which Won started from Ry-
blnsl n Won ca,na from 81 petersburp.
or M yarosIav n you came from Mos
COW IN embark ON the Volea a. little
lower down than Rvhinsk Rut apart
from the sIze Of the boats a trip on any
of them (and there are sever.,I connect
inc oomnanles doing very rrg sperous
business) is n real vovaee dc luxe. The
cooking ana fare ought IN satisfy the
,nost enic,rean fastIdiousnass hut
there "a NOT the slightest nttemnt 10
conform 10 the tastes az rourmands
from western Eurone generally
found that on chose Vniga steamers tho
nationalIsm is nersletent Tho officers
md crew saloon sneak awning but
HnssIan eycentIpg whom the vessel
hannsns IN he commanded nv some re-
tired naval officer Won can always
di.tineuish when tbot ia the case bv
his sniendid uniform such n cantain Is
svre IN sneak good French mn the
dinner carte Is always IN RussIon and
4. n honeless disnlav ~ the hieroglvnhics
for anv tou,lst knov,iny anvthing az the
isngusye The gare is ,uxnrious
Russia ia the land ~ mystlc extremes
7, ovrflows with food IN richest variety
anS incaIculahia ahundance. ana yat IL
,s snbere of nariodtcai ssminee cnris
cus ta say esneciollv In the ,black
Earth zone- itself On tho steamera
the d,nners ma all other meals ara
nureiv Rnssian INT thew are az The
hghes, oycellenca Tho je,icio,,s rren.
nrat,ons Of sterlst and stnrgeon er,ned
In ,he fesb,s ntvn. fat ana served vim
,ha s,,mo,,s nirba or "at,her savco
would tbrnty parlaion ohef into 10.
snairins anvv What has aiways as.
tanished mo e. dc easorness ~ pns.
.,an t,a,,allers Ia n,,rchase ea,ottas a.
every iit,ie ianding rtace ovon ~ me