New-York tribune., 1902-05-28

Of the AIhambra all my life. and now that I
am here insist upon seeing IT. Washington
Irving taught to love the Alhambra when I
q boy. have been rushed once. Now I
shall take my own time, and you dare not put
out!"
After this declaration of American indepen-
dence the attendants were helpless. The two
tourists patted the names Of the lions, meditated
in the Hall OF the Abencerrages, whistled coon
songs in the Salon of Justice. smoked cigarettes
in the Room of the Two Sisters. took careful
measurements OF the Sultanas bath, and loi-
tered provokngly in the old Moorish Chapel
and in the Hall of the Ambassadors. Having
breathed the atmosphere Of the haunted palace
TO their hearts content, they sauntered off
without word Of thanks much less tip, to
the Andalusian who had been awaiting their
pleasure from room to room. While expostulat-
ing with them for their contumacy and seeking
to keep the helpless attendant in good humor
by supplying him with cigarettes, 1 had myself
profted by their revolt and had fully enjoyed
the delightful experience of a prolonged tour
through the Moorish rooms, where every CLINT
of color in arabesque fretwork and mosalcs was
softened by half lights evening approached
In their devotion to the memory of Washing
ton Irving these intractable tourists failed to
appreciate their obligations to the Spanish Gov
ure house Of picturesque art on the same terms
with which Niagara had been reserved for the
pleasure of lovers Of nature. Without doubt
the number of attendants was inadequate and
the official tour through the Moorish halls was
made with undue haste; but there was an OBJ
vious necessity for keeping visitors under con-
stant observation and thereby forestalling the
depredatiOns Of relic hunters. Otherwise the
mosaics, arabesques and creamy stalactite cell
ings would long ago have been chipped to pieces
by devastating horde. The Spanish Govern
ment ought to be credited with acting in a pro-
gressive and enlightened spirit in adopting ef-
fcctive measures for preserving this time glori-
fed Moorish palace and for enabling pilgrims
in quest Of the bizarre and the picturesque to
enjoy day after day without expense a marvel
lous treasure trove Of the Arab conquest. Ex-
tensiye repairs and restOrations have been nee
essary after protracted period of neglect and
these have been conducted at the expense of
the nation with skill and painstaking care, If
not always with sound judgment. Since Wash
ington Irving's time this gem of Moorish plas-
tic and mosaic ornamentatiOn has been reset
and many of its facets have been polished. The
ancient work has been closely initiated both in
mosaic and arabesque, and processes of resto-
ration have not been conducted with destructive
energy.
There are no heroic figures in Irving's ro-
rnances of the Alhambra The Mahomets and
Ynsufs who hello sumptuous court and main
tained an Oriental harem in the Arab palace
beyond the citadel longer names to con-
jure with; and if Ferdinand and Isabella who
are now asleep in the royal chapel of the Ca
thedral Ct Granada, received Columbus in the
Hall Of the Ambassadors upon his return from
San Salvador visitors not impressed by the
legend. There historical associations to
cast a glamour over the imagination. The in
terest and charm OF the Alhambra are entirely
impersonal. 1t is Oriental romance without
hero heroine, yet it touches the heart The
Alhambra IS the realization Of those radiant
dreams of the Arabian Nights which have
helped the world 10 retain its youthful vivacity-
Time stained and grim the yellow towers
OF the Puerta. Judciaria and the AlcaZaba, but
the Seams and scars of hoary age are concealed
by freshness of verdure. In the bright May
sunshine thrushes are twittering among the ivies
and creepers OF the trellised garden of the cit
adei; beautiful myrtle hedges adorn the ap
proaches to the Arab house and the palace of
Charles V; and roses and jessamine are bloom
ing among the expresses and grottoes of the
gardens or the Generalife. The Alameda with
the Wellington elms is carpeted with yerdure
and the music of the nightingales is attuned to
the play Of the fountains Beyond the Alham-
bra HILL with it's two ravine assures are far
reaching vistas Of the plateau of Granada
fringed with vineyards and olive groves shin-
sJnering with clumps of orange trees and radiant
IN the freshest tpts of springtime The ancient
masses of crumbling masonry are transfgured
py an environment OF freshness and beauty; and
hidden among the Oriental courts with their
Aan nRhts and tender fiushes Of color is the