The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-06-14
DAINTY SUMNER GOWNS
DESIGNED FOR YACHTING, YET ARE
SUITABLE ELSEWHERE.
White Prevails Everywhere in all Ma
teriaIs and for All Ages-O1d-
Time Effects.

charm of her first youth is here. In proper
accompaniment for the fresh young YER
dure and the delicious scent Of June roses
are gowns that vie with nature herself in
the charm of their color: costumes that
suit old Neptune in his tempting mood or
calm and beauty, yet will withstand the
spray he loves 10 dash over freshly
whtened decks, hats that harmonize to a
nicely with each and with all.
AS l have stated again and again. white
is given the first place, let the purpose OF
the costume be what it may. For yacht
ing, boating and all seashore sports IL is far
more serviceable and practical than at first
thought appears, and is always charming.
This season linen is in unprecedented de-
mand. The handsomest and smartest
yachting costumes are made of the material
in white and are trimmed with heavy lace,
Irish or Cluny. Exceedingly chic models
are in three pieces and show skirt, blouse
and coat en- suite. For these the half and
| three-auarter loose Monte Carlo coats are
| exceedingly fashionable, although some
! jaunty Etons are seen. Fevorite short
skirts are plated and stitched fat at the
| upper portions giving a hounce effect, or
plain and gored to produce much flare.
Many smart women who are genuine lovers
| of the sport will have none of greater
| length but there are always those who
wear the graceful, long skirts, and for them
are shown a multitude of designs. The
plain gored one is always good and is much
seen with lace let in at each seam, but
plated designs are newer, and the box plat
| takes prominent rank A really exquisite
gown of the all white sort is made of butch
er's linen, the skirt box plated and
riched by insets OF Irish lace where the
plaits fall free, the blouse also plated, with
! yoke and cuffs of the lace, and the coat in
Monte Carlo style, with collar edged with
! applique and cuffs entirely OF lace. Scarce
ly anything more elegant could be imagined
| than the costume worn with its accom-
| panying hat that shields the eyes, and is
| of burnt straw and simply trimmed with
white AS a matter of course the linen
soils readily, but as ii cleanses with perfect
success that is not the drawback ii first APP
pears to be. Colors worn, matter
of course, and suit some wearers even bet
ter than the white, but that fact by no
| means interferes with the statement that
| white is specially smart any more than the
fact that serge, etamine and other woods
| in vogue detracts from the value of
| linen. White on colors is not seen much
| nor so often as self-colored lace in gowns
| of this sort, but some exceedingly elegant
| costumes are TO be seen in blue and pastel
colored linens with heavy linen or Irish
laces dyed to match.
FINE MATERIALS USED.
When three-pece costumes are not used
coats and skirts are made to match with
fascinating blouses of thinner materials
either cotton or linen. For these handker-
chief lawn is a favorite with trimming Of
lace or needlework and much fancy stitch
ing. AS its threads pull out with ease, II
lends itself to hemstitching and drawn
work effects with singular success and per-
mits of such elaboration with less labor
than is often the case. An exceedingly
pretty new model is however free of any
| such work and is simply tucked by hand.
| The waist closes at the back where the
| tucks extend for its entire length and are
| arranged in groups, but at the front is
| a yoke effect. The sleeves are in elbow
| length, tucked and edged with frills and the
neck is finished with an unlined stock of
| the lawn and lace, held In place by tiny
uprights of covered bone stitched fast at in
| tervals. These uprights are almost invisible
| yet serves to keep the collar in place and
| are not in the least uncomfortable to the
wearer. One at the front. one at the back
| and one midway at each side is the rule and
all that are required.
Yachting suits of a simplar sort of
| linen. Sicilan, of canvas or of serge and are
| made with short coats and skirts of walk
| ing length. Some fascinating ones sent over
| from London are of heavy linen canvas in
| cream and are made with blouse coats and
| side plated skirts. the latter plain and the
| former nnlSned with reVerS nnd collars of
| Bulgarian embroidery. The embroidery be-
ing rich. even splendid in color. makes a
| most picturesque effect and, as the founda-
| ton material is on Oriental linen harmon
| ICES to perfection with the coats. One of
| the latest skirts is laid In shallow vertical
| plaits that turn back from the center front
where a box plated effect is given. and
stitched to fiounce depth. Many Of these are
| quite plain but others again show lace
let i'm near the lower edge and are exceed
| ingly handsome. Favorite hats are of Pana-
| str uyfth fri nr1ipQ
For carriage and visiting wear pongee
still holds its place, although dainty mulls
and muslins are becoming more general
every day. A most exquisite three-piece
costume, within the week. is Of ecru
pongee with trimming of Irish lace in the
same shade. The long graceful skirt is
kilt plated and finished only with a hem,
but is hung over apple-green taffeta. The
blouse is an elaborate one with shallow
unlined yoke of lace and big sleeves edged
with lace at the elbows below which fan
enormous puffs of white chiffon. The coat
is in three-quarter length, plated 10 match
the skirt and with big collar Of lace and
loose bishop sleeves whose cuffs also are
of lace. With the gown are an accompany
ing hat and Darasol. the latter of pongee
lined with green, and enriched by inser-
tons of lace. the former of burnt straw.
low and fiat in shape. with underbrim of
pfaited chiffon. trimming of white roses set
in chiffon round the brim and big bow OF
chiffon at the back of the crown the ends
turned under the brim. In the entire cos
tune is not one false note. Every item suits
/ make
the perfect whole. AS a finishing touch
were worn white silk gloves with openwork
lace backs. Never have we had such variety
in gloves. never so many charming and
suitab bic offerings for summer wear. In ad-
dition TO those OF silk lace are genuine lace
mitts in chantilly. alencon. Cluny and
maltese both black and white and i'm
various lengths openwork Isle gloves and
fine silk net all OF which are deliciously
cool and comforta BILE well as elegant.
Elbow sleeves have made a demand for
gloves OF elbow length and all these
| varieties can be found therein as well as
both longer and shorter. While few wom-
en- still cling TO gloves OF suede and hold
that nothing is a satisfactory substitute for
these charming ones Of lace and silk are
already generally accepted in Paris and
much liked here
DOLLY WARDEN STYLES.
Muslins. chifons, mulls and the like are
preferably either white IN lowered or
Dolly Warden designs. While actual DOLLY
Warden gowns far from being dupli-
Gated and all the tendency is toward soft.
clinging. dropping draperies, whereas the
original Dolly reveled in bourfant effects.
the pretty little opera has caused her name
20 be given 10 the designs which DO sug-
gest those OF the period. except that they
are far more artistic and less crude in
color. Favorite trimmings are two laccs