The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1902-03-01

| the same unerring instinct Graves an
other vegetable of anti-scorbutic pro-
/ perties in order to make fish diet a
perfectly normal one.
HOW FISH ARE CLASSIFIED.
Fish proper are divided into two class
/ eS: the white or oily, or oily, accord
| ing to whether their fat is confined to
| the liver or distributed throughout the
| body. The white fish should be selected
| by those who cannot digest rich foods.
| The whiting, called the chicken of the
sea, is very easily digested and when
fresh possesses a very delicate flavor.
This is the invalid's fish. Salmon is the
richest of the oily fish and the only red
| fish. Most people find it disagrees with
| them, owing to the great amount of oil
| it contains, which is very abundant in
the belly. 1t should always be served
with vinegar or acid sauce and accom-
panied by cress, spinach, lettuce or some
such green vegetable.
SHELL FISH AND MOLLUSKS.
These belong % two natural divisions,
the crustaceans and mollusks. The old
Jewish law strictly prohibits the eating
Of this class of marine food AS rule
the cruStacea are foul feeders and the
danger arising from this habit may have
made such a law necessary, although
we suspect the highly indigestible ma
| ture of the shell fish, coupled with the
insufficient supply of vegetable foods
among the lowly followers of the 'wisest
man. may be held more accountable
than the habits of the dainty monsters
of the deep. They are highly nutritious
and the natural supposition would be
that they should be wholesome we'll.
Unfortunately those who most do love
to feed upon them find that, perhaps, in
their individual case, all shell fish in
duce kin disorders, such as nettleraSh-
Those having equity and rheumatic ten
denotes are more subject to these an
noyances than others. If these unfortu-
mates cannot deny themselves an occa-
sional indulgence let them partake only
when the fish are very fresh and pro-
perly steamed. When the peculiar
sweetness that characterizes the meat
of shell fish is lacking, and the flesh is
stringy and tough, beware how you par
take.
The family of crustaceans embrace,
besides the lobster and crab. the craw-
fish or crayfish, the shrimp and prawn.
The two latter may be regarded more in
the light of stimulants or appetizers
than actual food. To enjoy these thor
oughly they should be cooked in sea wa
ter. They are cooked in their shells
and are quite rich in mineral matter,
which is presented to the body in the
form of magnesia and lime carbonates.
The oyster is the chief representative
of the mollusk family. They have about
the same composition as milk. Their
nutritive value is not high, while their
market value places them among the
luxuries. Their delicacy of flavor and
easy digestibility make them highly es-
teemed by dainty eaters and useful for
the sick.
IL
full cooking increases the digestibility
of the soft part of the oyster and it GER
tainly does not improve the hard muscle
which closes the she'll
CHOOSING LOBSTERS.
The heaviest are the best. and if they
are alive they should be very active
with their claws. A good small sized
lobster will often weigh heavier than
larger one. so do not let size govern
your choice.
f@o;I tl,a- oa1n hn HaG1l
is frmer and the shell a brighter red
The hen lobster should be chosen for
sauces and salads on account Of their
coral 1t is easy to distinguish between
the two; the hen has broader tail and
the two uppermost fins within the tail
are mort pliable than those of the mals
lobster.
SARDINES, MAITRE D'HOTEL.
Skin a number of sardines, cut off the
tails arrange them on hot buttered toast
and heat them in the oVen Make cup
full of white sauce; add one tablespoon
full of finely chopped onion, teaspoon
full of chopped parsley and cock few
minutes. Then add teaspoonful of
chilli vinegar and dash of cayenne. PoIr
the sauce over the fish and serve at
once.
SMELTS, BEARNAISE.
Split Is medium smelts down the
back: remove the bones, rub each well
with oil and season with a little salt ana
pepper. Place them in a double boil
er and broil for two minutes on each
side. Pour half cupful of sauce
Bearnaise on heated dish; arrange the
smelts nicely on top and garnish with
gherlxins and picked beets cut into fan
cy shapes.
SALMON AU BLEU
Cut salmon in slices not quite an inch
thick. Lay the slices in a dish and pour
over them about half pint of boiling
vinegar, more or less, according to guam
THY of fish. Then fold it in muslin ..nd
place in a stewpan with an onion, one
carrot, thinly sliced, a bunch of parsley,
a shallot, a bay leaf, sprig Of basil and
few whole spices and pepper corns,
teaSpoonful of salt and broth enough to |
cover it. Let simmer gently until the
fish is cooked enough; then let IT remain
in the liquor until cold. Drain and serve |
with sauce mades of one part vinegar. |
two parts oil, a little SoFrel, chives and |
cherVil chopped small, but not very fine.
Cook the fish in a pint of red wine and
a little broth if you use wine IN cook
ing.
LOBSTER BALLS.
Take the meat from a fine hen lob |
ster and mince very fine with the coral |
Mix with it not quite the quantity OF
bread crumbs, season with salt, pepper |
with two ounces of softened butter. !
Roll the mixture into balls the size OF |
hens eggs; brush over with beaten egg
and cover with crumbs and fry a light |
brown; serve hot with sauce tartaFe.
OYSTERS PIQUANT-
Trim the boards from one and one |
half dozen oysters: scald them in their |
own liquor just long enough to plump !
them: then drain them on a cloth. Fry |
them nice brown in little butter; a |
seasoning of mushroom catsup, the rind |
of half a lemon and a small sprig of |
parsley minced fine Serve them up |
with sauted potatoes and parsley.
RAGOUT OF OYSTERS AND CHEST |
NUTS.
Make thick batter with the yolks OF
two eggs two tablespoonfuls of milk |
or cream a spoonful of spinach juice, a /
little grated nutmeg, peel of half a |
lemon minced fine, a little parsley |