Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-09-27

the elegance of my figure, and naturally
preferred to conceal rather than to reveal
it's imperfections.
II must tell you,' Coralie went on, still
apropos of skirts, 1.-THE modistes this season
and during the winter will adopt par
ticular standard in cutting. The number of
cores, breadths and the width will depend
on personal preference. The correct walk
ing skirt must just clear the ground. Stitch
ed, side and box plaits are to be used in
various ways. On some perfectly plain
models strappings will appear. Light
weight tweeds, cheviots, covert cloths, cord
ed velvet, rough finished and boucle goods
are the fabrics most suitable for simple pc
destrian costumes. A short Jacket worn
over blouse of thin cloth or of silk Is part
of the chic walking toilet"
What sort Of jackets will modistes per-
nit us to wear this autumn" I fippantay
queried.
Coralie called, Emile, the gray covert
clothr'
In Gray Covert.
The waiting woman appeared promptly
as the genii in attendance on Aladdin's
lamp. She carried partly completed man
nish-looking costume, which I was told was
being fashioned for femme savant," one
Of those globe-trotting women who are con-
tent in any country but their own. With
the intention of wearing the dress when
penetrating the Businesses of the Urals or
the Caucasus, the lady had asked for some
thing which should be both neat and COM
Portable. Coralie gave her both qualities
and added to them SmartneSS. The skirt
terminal ted a trif1e below the ankle and was
finished with a band of wash leather. Seven
parallel rows of. stitching were seen just
above that decoration. The skirt CHANGED
to be five-gored one, provided in the back
with an inverted plait and with every seam
ostentatiously strapped. The basqued
jacket representing all that is recent in
fashion, below the waist had pointed flaps
like the tasses on the armor of a knight of
the fourteenth or fifteenth century. The
narrow leather belt matched the band upon
the skirt. Three bone buttons fastened the
blouse in the center. Below the revers a
yoke was outlined with strappings, and
patch pocket, also strapped, afforded rest
ing place for the ever-useful handkerchief.
The sleeves were ordinary ones, neither
very loose nor yet very full.
To me it seemed odd that a scholarly wo
mans first preparation for spending half
dozen months among semi-barbarians
should be the selection of a smart costume,
but 1 suppose that is the eternal feminine
of the case.
Jackets Are Basqued.
'Such a gown said Nine. CoralIe, "is
most excellent for the traveller, for the
pedestrian or for the sportswoman. I ad-
vised the great lady tourist that tweed in
the fashionable black and white check
WOulu Ue more SerFlCedDie tIldu CONeII
cloth, but she would not have it. The jack
ct? Oh. madame. they are all basqued at
least the ultra chic ones are So We have
them sometimes like those in the model.
again we make them with double or triple
flaps. They are also straight, pointed or
rounded, to suit the taste of the wearer.
For a tall, thin woman like yourself I
should advise the triple basqued coat
l changed the subject to sleeves.
'Oh, yes, they are larger, more elaborate,
certainement, madame. l should not now
dream of countenancing the straight sleeve;
but it is different for one who goes on &
my art well that 1 shall never fail to
adapt my costumes to the circumstances"
What has become of the position
coats?" I questioned, for nothing had been
with still, madame, but no longer
novel. They are worn by women who are
too stout to look well in the basqued
style. Emlie!' she called.
And again the ever watchful assistant
rushed in this time with costume of
chestnut brown cloth.
Nine. Coralie shook 1t out daintiIy before
she slipped it over the lay figure. Then she
stood aside and smiled in pleased anticipa-
tion of my praises.
The coat was really novel. The basque
instead of being cut in the usual shape.
of Japanese panel curved gracefully,
and the edges were finished with line Of
white tafreta cording. The effect was quite
military, and l casually mentioned this
fact to the modiste.
Military Ideas.
''True," she assented. "You will see many
adaptations of military dress in the cos
tunes of the coming season." =.
The skirt was wonderfully ornate. There
were perpendicular box plaits, each neatly
stitched and loosely adjusted over rows of
tiny horizontal tucks. An inverted quad
ripple box plat, fiat at the waist and
spreading below, gave fullness to the back
This is an idea borrowed from Paquin,
who is the great authority on skirts. In
verted box plaits strapped down above and
fiaring open below are to be found on many
of the latest models. Side plaits and mar
row open box plaits are also featured by
some of the great couturieres Yoked
skirts are again with us. 1 do not like any
effect which chops the figure into sections
Neither is Nine. Coralie very enthusiastic
about the latter innovation.
For the thin woman who has a pretty
waist and well shaped hips the yoked skirt
Is very good, but for one noticeaby stout
cest impossible she said.
Yet with that blind fatality with which
women seize upon the unbecoming, before
the winter Is over you may expect to see
three-fourths of the stout ladies OF your
acquaintance complacently wearing yoked
skirts. CATHERINE TALBOT.