Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-11-15
SAW GRAND LAMA OF TIBET.
Visit Of an Indian Traveller to the
"Sacred City"

From the London Chronicle.
In 1882, at the instigation of the govern
ment of India, Sarat Chandra Das made a
journey to Tibet. The report which he
submitted remained for many years in the
archives Of the Indian government. Re-
Gently it has been published by the Royal
Geographical Society of Great Britain.
Educated at the Calcutta presidency col
lege, and appointed head master of the
Bhutia boarding school, at Darjeeling, Sa-
rat Chandra Das cultivated every oppor-
tunity Of intercourse with Tibetans, learn
ed their language, and made study Of
their religion, SO that when he started on
his journey he was not only able to sue
Cessfully sustain the disguise of Tibetan
lama, but could count on protection from
many friends he had made in the country.
The Indian traveller visited Lhasa, the
capital of Tibet. the sacred city," the resi-
dence of the Dalai Lama. The Dalai Lama,
supposed to be the reincarnation of Bud
aha was once the ruler of Tibet; later his
power was confined to spiritual mat
tiers, king being appointed to attend to
temporal affairs. Now it is so arranged
that both temporal and spiritual rulers are
usually under age, and regent, appointed
by China, governs for them. Our traveller
was, of course, anxious to see the Dalai
Lama.
He appealed to the Lhacham, a lady of
the king or princess who was his friend,
to help him to an interview. 81 have not
acquired" he bewailed, "a sufficient moral
merit. in former existence, to be able to
see Shenrezig in flesh and blood" She re-
assured him. DO not be cast down. PAN
dibla; though 1t Is not an easy matter for
even the Shape and mobiles of Tibet to see
the Dalai Lama. ] will arrange an audi
ence for you"
Accordingly next day our traveller paid
his visit to Potala, provided with three
bundles OF incense sticks and a roll of kha-
To (nrp ntati =
five ladders brought them to the RED Pal
ace" then half dozen more ladders and
the party were at the top of Potala whence
magnificent view of the valley and city
is obtained, with green groves, the gilt
spires of the temples, and in the distance
the great monasteries with a mass of dark
blue mountains as a background Having
presented his khatag, and placed in the lap
of the Dalai Lama piece of gold WEIGHING
a tola, he took his seat in the third of
eight rows. about ten feet distant from the
Grand Lama.
The Grand Lama is child of eight with
bright and fair complexion and ROSY
cheeks. His eyes are large and penetrating
the shape of his face remarkably Aryan
though somewhat marred by the obliouity
of his eyes. The thinness of his person
was probably due to the fatigue of the
court ceremonies and to the religious duties
and ascetic observance of his estate A
yellow inter covered his head and its
pendent lappets hid his ears; a yellow man
Tie uIdpSu HIS DelSOll. anu ne sat crOSS-lpP-
ged with joined palms. The throne on
which he sat was supported by carved lions
ard covered with silk scarves The state
| officers moved about with becoming dig
nifty.
After the drinking Of tea, and presenta :
| ton of rice. which was touched by the
| Dalai Lama and carefully preserved nv
| the Pilgrims, grace was said and sort of
| litany recited, and then the pilgrims took
| their leave, being each presented with two
| packets of blessed pills and a SCRAP of red
| silk tied around the neck-the usual return
| presents made by the Grand Lama.
The Lhacham, to whom reference has AL
| ready been made, was the protectress In
| whose train "Pandibla'' { Sarat Chandra
| Das) went to Lhasa. She is shown to ms
| with artless skill, as very human woman
| indeed. devoted to her children fond of
| finery, cowardly about illness sometimes
| selfish. sometimes kind and Throughout
| quite a grande dame in her way Here is
| picture of her:
| "A white pony, with handsome housings
| of embroidered cloth and Tartar saddle
| awaited the Lhacham. With her pearl
| studded headdress. her gold and ruby
| charm boxes. her necklace of coral and am.
| Der. and her clothes Of satin and kinkat
| she looked like the heroine of romance OF
| a goddess