Evening star., 1902-02-15
FROM OVER THE SEA
LONDON HINTS ON FASHIONS FOR
MEN.
The Chesterfield Newmarket Hybrid.
the Frock overcoat-Evening
Dress Described.

at the same time. noticing one or two in
noVations which are already being tried.
Out which | do not think likely to catch
on
The Dress Suit.
AS to the general architecture OF the
dress suit, there Is little to be said. except
that the quality known to tailors as waist
mess is very characteristic of the most
fashionably-cut coats. That is to say.
they mt the figure more snugly than OF
Sore' and the back seams slant together
more at the bottom than they used to-
The fore-parts are cut with more sprinc
than last season, and the tails are slightly
rounded at the outer corners. While Il
good deal is heard of turn back cuffs vel
vet collars and such like iutroductiops
they are certainly not being made at tall
ofs VINO rank high. On the coutray
eAcept IN cut which tends To smartness
| evening dress has even more than it's GUS
tomary reserve. Cuffs are made actually
! TO button. and three buttons are the usual
| ~nu'Iper ~ shirts with one stud are more
often seen than those with two and three
stuu ShlrtS are only worn now by a f,\y
| military men of the old ..by Cad sir
| schooi. Suede dress ties are heard Of
! though | have not yet seen them They
! are said to be rather a success In black
put a gloomy failure In white Now a
Diack dress tie is very unusual thing
! this season. Twice-round linen ties ar,
rather liked. and they certainly look bet
| ter than any other sort OF twice-roundcrs
| EVenlng-dress socks are made of that for
.unate proportion of silk and wool which
the SpinnerS have at last Strlick-which
does not shrink and has just enough but
| not too much shine. They are all black.
ana nave a very slight pattern In front
not the gorgeous designs to which BOND
street TOOK so kindly. and premattlrcly
stocked up few months ago.
Waistcoats
EVenfng-dress waistcoats will he either
hifft
and single-breasted. this season | do not
| think there will be much of "A show far
| fancy Waistcoats, and certainly do not
| think that a terrible contrivance much
| advertised I'm this country as the ''eyenin.
| brace-waistcoat. will adhere. This weird
discovery has tabs under the fore parts
! 10 button on to the trousers in front aud
| these fore-parts terminate behind the
shoulders Ia two broad straps. exactly
| IKE the back of Il pair of suspenders.
| to the back brace buttons What Tia.
| looks of the thing will be under the in
| fiuence of the weight of the trousers and
the movements of the wearer lit is espe-
cially recommended for dancing. and how
| the shirt front is likely to sit under it, are
questions requiring neither very much cy-
perience nor very much imagination to
answer with A vividness which | fear
would. with the best of these uualifc:-
tions, fall far short of the lurid truth.
Muff1ers.
For wearing with evening dress | may
| just mention that those rich and hand
| some muffiers or wraps to protect the
sht front, which were poplar in Amer
| lea Tin spite of the fact that some ribalds
| nave called them liver pads,, are now
practically abandoned in favor of a plain
| white silk scarf of considerable size. which
can be spread out to serve their PURPOSE
execllently. perfectly plain mat-weave
| in rich white silk is the correct thing: and
please note that this wrap must be folded
on the bias. not oblong way as we were
all folding such things little while ago
| The best overcoat to wear with evening
| dress is either the frock overcuaf-which
Is the smartest thing out for all occasions
or long, loose Chesterfield coat. sin
| g1e-breasted and cut Very high with a
| back like the old Newmarket. cut well in
| at the waist. and fitted with two buttons
| in the small of the back and the long tails
1 which characterized that forgotten gar
| mcnt. Note that the opera hat is almost
wholly out Of fashion; anyway 1t must
| not be worn with frock overcoat. and ths
| best evening hat IS an ordinary silk Top
| per"
| The Frock Overcoat
| For the day time the frock overcoat has
now received the success it merited. and
| which it was bound to have. Black or q
very dark plain gray are the right colors
| The cuffs are generally turned back Just
now, but | recommend readers to Use plain
| cuffs with four buttons actually made to
button the cuffs. The waist is cut as snug
| as proper regard for the clothes beneath
! win permit but the skirts. which reach
the knee. are pretty full. and. although
even on this coat the popular taste for
Tapped seams makes itself felt. in some
hrst-rate quarters the very best tailors
| make 1t, as it ought to be made with plain
seams. To go 50 far as some do. and make
| 1t with cloth collar is / think a mis-
| take. The frock overcoat needs a velvet
collar, but it should have plain lapels Two
1ncompatibiltieS need no more than to be
named: you must not wear the frock over
coat with any other hat than tall silk
one; Eor may you wear il with q douhl.
collar. Less obvious is the unwritten law
which has suddenly sprung into existence.
namely, that you must not wear light
trousers with this overcoat. Obviously
loose trousers would not look well with
1t: they never did look well with any sort
make them look well with a frock coat
when they were fashionable. But why
light trousers, and especially those black
and white shepherds plaid ones SO pop,l-
lar with precisely the class of men who
would best assimilate the frock overcoat.
should be unwearable with il. Is difficult
to say.
But the fact remains that a man Of an;.
fashion might well walk along Picca-
dilly in pink tights as in a frock overcoat
and light trousers.
The king is alleged to have been seen
wearing Chesterfield ovcrcoat with vel
vet cuffs, which I hope is not true. as
do not want to give Edward VII the pain
OF Withdrawing my usually high esteem
for the royal taste i'm matters Of attire
Velvet cuffs always suggest one idea to my
mind-that something has gone wrong with
the original cuffs and that the velvet ones
have been put on to replace them and save
the coat.
Innovations.
The improbable innovation OF colored
flannel shirts-flannel fronts, flannel cuffs
and all. visible to the nude organ of per-
ception-has come during this mild muggy
weather of all times in the planets his
tory. With lounge suits these shirts are
perfectly allowable now. and with them
the jacket will come back again-for You
cannot wear a flannel shirt with the Cam
bridge tail-coated tweed) suit Brown
derby hats are again coming into use. after
a long absence from our shores. or rather
from our heads They are worn with a.
moderately wide and decidedly curly brim
New Use for the Post Office.