The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-11-09
THE PARIS OF SIBERIA.
che SIipshod, Primitive Town of Ir-
! kutsk.
De windt. in London Express.

Herry De Windt. i'm London Express.
A man might do worse than TO abandon
for once in a way the Riviera or Engadine
and take a winter trip by the Transsiberian
Railway TO Irkutsk i say "a man" adj
visedly, for at present the Paris of ST.
Eeria" Gas Russians alone. call it, is %
place for a woman, even for one who can
rough 1t.
AT this season the journey is a delight
fll one, for Siberia is now at it's best-not
the dark Siberia of the Notwithstanding
t.rigands. chained convicts. wolves and the
Enout-but smiling land of promise and
Hlenty, even under the limitless mantle
CT snow. The outlook is wintry, of course,
hut most days you have the blue cloudless
SKY and dazzling sunshine so often sought
In vain at Riviera resorts. At midday
your sunlit compartment is often too warm
10 be pleasant, although outside IL is ten
degrees below zero.
But the air is too dry and bracing for
discomfort. although the gentle breeze we
ere enjoying here will presently be cut
ting you TO pieces in London in the shape
OF boisterous and biting east wind. The
train is luxury itself-an excellent restau-
rant, piano, library and every comfort
that ingenuity can devise. This journey
CT nine days costs exactly Ell (first class,
exclusive of meals), and with good shoot
ing OF all kinds i'm Manchuria or the Trans
baikal, a trip of this kind in midwinter
is certainly worthy of the attention OF
Especially impecunious) sportsmen.
At present the Paris OF Siberia" is an
unfinished, slipshod city, badly paved and
practically nil, and only the intense winter
cold prevents the severe epidemics that
periodically occur in summer time. There
Is now one long, struggling main street,
With fairly good shops and buildings. but
teyond this Irkutsk remains the same
Greary looking place that L remember I'm
tne early nlnetles, before the railway had
aroused the town from its heavy sleep OF
Centuries.
Even now the place is absolutely primi-
tive and uncivilized. from a European
vnfV nf x-faNn md
rasty faced Tartars that throng the streets
are quite in keeping with the Oriental filth
around. unredeemed by Eastern color. The
best hotel rejoicing in the misleading title
CT Metropole) is foul and filthy den. sug-
eestive of the purlieus OF Soho, although
It's prices outvie those of the Carlton i'm
Fall Mall. Only lately built; the jerry built
house reeks of sewage and swarms with
vermin. You will find beastead certainly
Can unknown luxury here a decade ago).
but sheets and pillows generally dirty as
charged "extra!" And this is the Paris
OF Siberia.
In some respects Irkutsk has gone ahead.
There are now several banking houses,
tae shops are good and the population, per-
haps. a trifie cleaner than they used to be.
Moreover. there is fine theater Qately
tuit for $4,000, where l witnessed in
I.ussian. La Dame de chez Maxim"
which. however. was coldly received.
There are other so-called places OF
amusement. Electric light blazes till the
small hours from certain cafes chant
ants" and here the local Northumberland
there are many-take their pleasure sadly
enough. amid surroundings that would dis
grace dive in San Francisco.
The streets are dimly lii with oil. and
you must grcpe your way about after
oark but. II wise, you will stay at home.
Kor robbing and murder are common. Only
last week a woman was killed just outside
this hotel. A large proportion OF the popu-
IAtion here consists Of discharged conviCts.
T<iany Of whom haunt the night houses IN
quest OF their prey
Time will change all this, for frkutsk
Elust in few years become a teeming
center OF commercial ACTIVITY. with a
higher civilization brought IN by a foreign
clement. Important discoveries OF gold
rlines have just taken place I'm Manchuria.
large yield of valuable minerals. and. above
all, coal has been discovered in this neigh
horhood In large quantities. and Is now be-
Ing exported east and west, principally 10
the Pacific ports.
All these must materially benefit Irkutsk.
= good hotel here would pay fabulous re-
turns. At present the only restaurant Is
that OF the grimy and verminous Metro
POLE and even here the Siberian Croesus
viii gladly pay prices lfor filthy food and
worse drink) that would open the eyes CT a
Ritz.
But. enough Of lrkutsk Tomorrow we
leave this for Yakutsk. most Of this sleoge
trip being over the frozen River Lena. a
distance OF OF two thousand miles
twenty-four days may see there. This
Is the first important stage on our long
lslnd journey. as pioneers. let Us hope, or
| fnat other great railway which may one
/ LAY unite without break the harbor or
Calais and the busy wharves OF New York.