The Indianapolis journal., 1902-07-20
A TRAVELLER in ATHENS
GREEK CITY BEING MODERNIZED
WITH GREAT RAPIDITY.
Transformation Brings Sadness to
Those Who Revere the Relics and
Traditions of the Past.

Fair gem of sky,
BY gods immortal. through mischance,
Seeded on earth"
1t was with such classic thoughts running
in our heads that we found ourselves one
dark, cloudy, windy morning in March
rolling along over the uneven road that
leads from the Piraeus to Athens. Our
guide was Dhemetri, of course. Who ever
heard of a guide in Greece that was not
named Dhemetri? An excellent guide he
was, too, never missing the way answer
ing correctly all questions to which he
knew the answers and fabricating answers
to the rest near the truth as his mod
crate knowledge of antiquity would per-
nit, providing us sedulously with creature
comforts and besieging our hearts with
delicious omelettes and endless strings of
figs, showing that he was more Of a philos-
opher than we had given him credit for
in knowing the stimulating seat of human
good will.
We had set off at an early hour, our road
for some time lying along the sea, pass
ing underneath the high cliffs that lined
the shore, then rose by a steep ascent
among the mountains, barren and stony,
and wearing an aspect of desolation equal
to that of the Roman Campagna, through
long defiles with many an evidence of past
greatness, upon which, deeply cut in the
rock, are seen the mark of chariot wheels,
perhaps of those used in the sacred pro-
cessions. In turn we passed the ruined
Monastery of Daphne, in a beautifully pic
turesque situation, and in a few minutes
more the rich plain of Attica burst on our
view stretching away for many league
in ineffable radiance, like a huge drop
curtain of nature hung against the blue
dome Of the sky beyond. Our muleteers
and Dhemetri, with a burst of enthusiasm,
doubtless actuated more by the common
place thought that the journey was ended
than by the classical rumina tions, clapped
their hands and as if fearful that our
alien eyes were incapable of comprehend
ing it all tugged at our sleeves violently
and cried out, "Atinae. Atinaer'
PICTURESQUE SCENE.
For hours we remained in this immense
mountain gallery, permitting fancy to roam
as it willed-mute. entranced, bewildered;
we were gazing on the birthplace of the
world. But our reverie was suddenly shat
tered by the workaday sighs of Dhemetri,
to whom the precious "backsheesh" which
sideration than ten thousand thousand
years of ancient glory. One fond last look
we gave TO the animated picture and as
the great round sun Glove through the
western horizon we were treading on
sacred ground, to have our illusions ruth
lessly shattered by the strident tones of
guides, hawkers, beggars and children in
Vulnerable seeking our undoing and making
unwarranted assaults on our pursestrings.
The sentimental traveller must forever
mourn that Athens was ever selected as the
capital of Greece. Already have specua-
tors and the whole tribe of 'fmprovers'' in
vaded the glorious city and swamped
ancient glory by utilitarian modernity.
While 1 was lingering on the steps of the
Parthenon, a German, who was quietly
smoking among the ruins, came up, offered
me cigar and leaning against one of the
lofty columns of the temple. opened upon
me with his plans of city improvements"
with new streets and projected railroads,
and the rise of lots. Sad it is to stumble