New-York tribune., 1902-07-13
AND CASSEROLES.
THEIR GROWING POPULARITY WITH
USEWIVES-DELECTAB DISHES
SERVED IN THEM.

Not so long ago ramekins and casseroles were
terms hardly understood in the average kitchen.
The utensils themselves, seldom II ever appeared
at the ordinary table but were reserved for the use
OF professional cooks and chefs. With the adop-
ton of French dishes and methods into the Amerl-
can kitchen, however these useful dishes nave
found permanent place in the household. Ac-
cording 10 trade classifcatiops both rameklns ana
casseroes are baking dishes OF china or eartheA-
ware, casseroles having handle and cover ana
ramekins having neither. Both come In individual
and family sizes and n a great variety OF designs
AS rule all individual dishes. covered OF uh-
covered, known TO housewives as rameklns'
In this department alone there is no end TO the
conceits displayed in housefurnishing departments
There the exquisite decorated French emma
ramekins huted or plain and so crisp that 'heE
look as if they had just come from the laundresS
irons, and the quaint little thick yellow or brown
earthenware that have suggestion, even IN
the stores of savory little mixtures. Then there IS
no end to the terrapin cups and the like which
really belong TO this class Among them are clever
limitations in the finish of wares and decorations
of crabs, turtles, vegetables fruits, etc. which are
charming that they might easily find their place
among the bric-a-brac instead of with the more
plebeian and uthtarian household furnishings
1t stands TO reason, Of course, that the uneoV-
cred dishes are suited TO viands which are 10 De
Drowned the top in baking, and that the covered
ones are intended for those which need slow ana
uniform cooking. The casseroles at once sug-
gest the chicken or other meat zen sassero.e;,
and which only a French cook can accomplish
its own rich juices and Favored with the vege-
tables. which have been used in exactly the rsnt
lies in very slow cooking in thick tightly GOV GOV.
cred dish with as little loud exeepMs IN Is and
vegetables from burning. When the meat Is done
down (never tlicEened with fiour1 and then the
is returned 10 the casserole and II is s9rrT sT
teach one how 10 season this dish IN N man man,
ner worthy it's name. The casserole OF ofoWh
earthenware is covered with a napkin before send
ing 10 the table =, -, ...-s.z ora
suited. The thrifty housewife knows that Win tne
Prey Pre- Viii HSiT fTctnaIIy Conceal their real nature
For the FISH course 4 crab ragout may be served served
ana an the Sstumpy' handle Of the large kind or II
may appear in ramekins ReT9ve the ] meat nvster It9
in their liquor until the edges ruffie and then re-
mpSs b2ss 6te5 hSI Without browning one tablespoonful
of butter and one tablespoonful OF ouf' f , IsteT
liquor one cupful OF button mushrooms, sait , ano
paprika and small 6ou9aetc So an9 IS COOK ten or
fifteen minutes longer Mix the yoiKs 1i ,hU, 76s
crab meat and the oysters into the sauce m HeS. ear
the mixture thoroughly but 90 n%t SSvs been thor
oughly heated cover and serve - .. ,. .rt,
rasoGt s T in &c one srse utens prepare
It in Individual portions, rms ,aTI ton Is
apy a by fsRS brdT5ed in the that work
done in the individual dishes ;he advantage OF
the server. Lobster ragout may 6e pEepG55Tg ~
the way crab rasout. with the lopstSi,
CoquiiIes of lobster requires an uncovered dish.
Cook two tablespoOufuls of finely chopped onion
in tablespoonful OF butter for hye minutes. aaNe
one tablespoonful OF Hour one cupIuI OF white
stock. a small bouquet. six whole peppers. halI a
teaspOonful of salt, half cuptul or chopped nusn-
rooms and liquor. and, II il is liked, little nut
To the onions, which have cooked in the butter
for FIVE minutes add two cupfuls OF nnely cut
parsley. one cupful OF the sauce. and salt and
paprika Cook all together FOR ten minutes. Then
Individual ones pour iTs d of the sagGs 9veT s6
bake until they are browned-a bout ten minutes.
For many kinds of cheese dishes, sweetbreads,
"au gratin" souf1es of all sorts. deylled mixtures
certain fricassees and stews and all escalops me
table in napkin. but this may be left 10 the dis
tingIy conceal a charming dish
Cheese soufie is delicious luncheon dish: Cook
together for hVe minutes two tablespooufuls or
butter and two tablespoonfuls of -four Stir them
t0 euRIgI @ b T sca H btan sSI Rn m b isS
from the ire and add five tablespoOnfuls of grated
cheese When the mixture is cool incorpoEa{ss the
tered bread crumbs and bake in a moderate oven
For cheese fondue. scald a pint of milk in a
double boiler. and stir into il half a pound of
of sait { tb mixture heat sowV then
ada the Well beaten yolks Of four eggs and take
the dish from the fire When ii has cooled some
mixture into buttered ramekins, and bake for
twenty minutes in a moderate
For escalloped fish almost any kind of cold cooked
fresh FISH may be used; Make white sauce Of two
level tablespoonfuls OF -four one tablespoonful of
Butter large ramekin or individual ones, put in
sauce and dots Of butter Cover the top Of the
dish with buttered bread crumbs. and bake until
brown.
Cauiiaower au gratin is made of the cooked
vegetable Put the caulifower into large ramekin
sauce described above sprinkle IL literally with
grated American or Parmesan cheese cover lightly
with buttered bread crumbs. and bake until the top
Terrapin and oysters in the season may be pre-
Dreamed sweetbreads make suitable dinner or
luncheon entree for any occasion. To prepare the
changing the three times. Then re-
move the membranes and pipes and boil them
water. Take them from the fire and drop them into
cold water. When they are hard and cold cut
cover with a rich. white sprinkle with but
Curried sweetbreads are especially well adapted
spoonf1is Of butter five minutes Then add two
tabespoonfuls of butter and cook for two or three
minutes Stir into the butter and flour one and one
ems and strain it. Season with salt, pepper. one
tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar or lemon juice
sauce boil for a minute or two. Then add large
dice-shaped pieces Of the sweetoreads Turn The
mixture into lndlVlduaI FaheA4hs ana SIMMER Ior
Mushroom Tagout lends itself to the casserole be
cause 1t should not be Drowned. and II requires
slow cooking Trim and pare a pound Of large
In tablespoonful or butter untll they nave nearly
absorbed the butter. Butter the casserole lay in
the bottom Of 1t very thin slices OF raw ham, put
over it layer Of mushrooms then a layer OF
chopped onions and sprinkle them with chopped
mushrooms onions and parsley until all used
The top layer should be OF ham. Turn over the
bake for an hour and a half in moderate oven.
Real mushroom lovers will like better plain escal-
which hide the mushrooms flavor. Arrange in the
n1Fr 1nFG Of hIT far