Evening star., 1902-09-15

utterly disappeared is more than seven
minutes, and, as he retires, he seems to
fling his radiant clothes to right and left,
as he disrobes for the night.
The whole atmosphere is shimmering and
throbbing with beams Of light, and old
Snaefels and the surrounding sea are ir-
radiated and glorified.
AT last he is gone, but not far as is very
evident. for the beams which he sends up
from his bed just below the horizon are
almost as bright as his face itself.
At midnight you can see to read almost
as well as at midday; at 1 o'clock it is no
darker, and at 2 o'clock, refreshed by his
short nap, the sun shakes out his locks
and comes up again in the northeast, only
little ways from the place where he set
behind the mountain to run another days
race around the wide horizon.
Reykjavik the Capital
All this time, while we have been watch
ing the sunset, the Laura has been steam
ing along through the great bay, and about
midnight cast her anchors in the harbor of
Reykjavik, the capital Of Iceland.
Immediately she is surrounded by a swarm
of little boats containing guides hotel tools
and owners Of ponies and outfits for those
who think of seeing the wonders of Iceland.
But this advance guard of Icelanders is no
more importunate and is quite as honest as
similar characters in other parts of the
world, which is not high praise, perhaps.
derfoot' in Iceland to seek out the we'll
established and recommended outfitters and
make the best bargain he can, for his holi-
day in Iceland will cost him enough at the
very best, as We shall see later.
We are in a hurry to get ashore after
six days and a half at sea, even If 1t is
midnight, and there is quite light enough
to see that Reykjavik, though the capital
and metropolis of Iceland. Is not very big
city, but a struggling village of 6,0O0 or
1000 inhabitants with substantial church,
a sold-looking parliament house of stone,
a good bank building, a somewhat preten-
t!ous hotel and number Of crooked streets
lined with small houses, covered on the
outside with corrugated iron from Wolver
hampton.
Its Ancient Smells.
Even the most enthusiastic lover of Ice
land will admit that Reykjavik has few at
fractions, and these few will not detain him
long. Its open sewers and its ancient and
fishy" smell are not alluring, and its mu-
scum, with its really fine wood carvings,
it's ancient Icelandic ornaments, its speci-
mems of lcelandic printing and of its ma
tive fauna and flora can be exhausted in an
hour or two.
Near the city are two or three objects of
special interest-the hot springs (Which,
however will not long detain those who,
like ourselves, are going to see the great
geysers) and especially the elder duck is
lands of Engey and Videy.
bers, and they have become exceedingly
tame, as it is not allowed to fire gun
within mile of the islands. When sitting
on her nest the old duck will even allow
her back to be gently scratched and seems
to enjoy the operation.
Twice in each season every nest is robbed
of the precious down with which 1t is
lined, and which the parent ducks have
plucketl from their own breasts for the
purpose. but If taken three times the nest
is deserted. For the first two Innings the
female takes the soft feathers from her own
breast but the third time the drake has to
furnish the down, which is not so fine as
that which the mother duck provides, and
so it Is allowed to remain in the nest undis-
turbed-another example, my fair readers
will say, of the inferiority of the masculine
member OF the family.
Every hole and Granny on these islands is
filled with nests. and to see the young
ducks in their downy homes or splashing
and padding about in the waves with their
parents is very amusing and pleasing
sight to the stranger and a still more pleas
ing sight. ima gine, to the thrifty Iceland
er, who sees his multiplying brood and re-
members that every pound of down is worth
twelve Of the good. broad kioners that are
none too plenty in Iceland.
For the longer and more romantic eXcur-
sions at a greater distance from Reykjavik
l must refer my readers to a later letter.
Reykjavik, July %. f. E. c.