Mexico weekly ledger., 1902-01-16
JOURNENNG THROUGH SPAIN.
By T WILLIAMS.

BY WALTER WILLIAMS.
SEVILLE, SPAIN. Dec. ), 1s0L-we
came, we saw. we take it all back.
The Spanish, after all their faults
have been admitted, are a great peo-
pie. Spain is a charming country, a
trife cold in December, 1t is true,
but beautiful in landscape and rich in
historic suggestions. The Spanish
women are beautiful. The Spanish
civilians, particularly Of the educated
class, are highspirited, courteous, I'M
selfish, proud. There is the air OF de
cayed gentility about the entire her
ian peninsula, but it is real gentility,
not assumed. We expected TO meet
in Spain resentment against Ameri-
cans. Such resentment would not
have been unnatural in view Of the
outcome Of the recent small skirmish
between the two countries. Instead
we found the warmest admiration for
the United States. Not only In the
hotel and business circles who dined
daily upon tourists, but in Official cir
Giles, among the general public and mi
the out-of-the-way places far from the
travellers beaten track. This admira-
ton is that which a brave nation or al
brave man feels for an equally gallant
foe no matter the result of the COM
bat between them. And nj n can
deny the courage OF gallantry Of the
Spanish people. The admiration for
the United States is only equalled by
hatred OF England. The British ma
tion is not In favor in Spain. It's
looked upon as playing the part which
Paul did at Stephens stoning. John
Bull, according to the Spanish, held
Uncle SANS clothes during the war.
Spanish courtesy lisa constant re-
buke to Americans. The Spaniard is
not content with merely directing the
inquirer. Instead, he viii go blocks
out OF his way in order that the strang-
er may End the place for which he
makes inquiry. This happened to the
MiSsourians not once but many times.
Business men, bankers, professional
men, as well as the ordinary police
men, upon the simplest inquiry as TO
the location Of some public building
would leave their work and go to the
very door OF the public building as a
response. Imagine, If 1t does not in
volve too great a wrench OF the imagi-
nation, a Missouri banker or lawyer or
merchant or even a st. Louis police
man escorting an inquiring stranger
several blocks. We did some good in
iSpain, after learning this custom Of
the people. We gave the Spaniards
plenty Of exercise.
OF course this courtesy is at the ex-
pense OF business. The average Span
lard cares little for gold but much for
i glory. He does not like to work. He
is fonder Of a siesta or a smoke. Where
; an American works a dozen hours a
day a Spaniard viii work three or less.
Yet despite this the Bank Of Spain, the
y great financial organization OF the ma
ton. declared a dividend Of twenty.
1--WE per cent this month and this 4
a an annual occurrence. And there i
plenty OF money to be had here al
three per cent. The Spanish are eth
er rich or poor-the prayer OF Agul
has not been answered in Spain. But
whether rich or poor all Spaniards arr
generous, gallant and full Of courtesy
Hence we take 1t all back-the NEAR
y things we said about the Spanish-anC
y will say no more mean things abou'
them-not In this paragraph.
e.; When the great review Of the King
J. ~body-guard took place in the court
ID yard Of the Royal Palace at MsdFi
eyery Spaniard saluted the red-and
yellow banner Of Spain as it was born
down the long line Of silver-helmeteI
Sc soldiery. The Missourians were no
R, to be outdone in courtesy by the Span
N iards so, as the royal collars passed
In the Scribe uncovered his head and tn
rs Kodaker uncovered his camera
es The Spanish women are all beaut
n ful. Some are more so. The Casti
be ian type, with cheeks in which th
rs CLINT Of the sunset has been caught
be dark eyes and darker hair, the AndalI
IS. sian maidens, plump, graceful, {
ne fairer face, the V~alencian y%ariety-a
be are Of attractive appearance. Eve
the Kodaker, who is such a connol
r. seur in beauty that he has never bee
ed able to find a signorlta to his tast
B. joins in this general puff Of SPANS
female loneliness. The women, as
=. lrule, do not wear bonnets or hat
,allThis is bad for the milliners. BV
the mllliners recoup themselves In u
re- mantllas and fans. Spanish beaul
: will promenade the streets with heat
av unbonneted but with the lace mantI
has iNI SduNDNNAlhk a. y AN-'
NJ there are entire stores where nothir
m else is sold. 1t is strange that woms
SHOULD preserve her beauty here In
country where she has been made
Ire work SO hard. The beasts Of burd'
or. in Spain are the donkey and u
he woman. There is a change Of lat
Ill however. The OK is taking the plai
bis OF the donkey. Possibly becan
woman has been SC long mans har
worked, almost slayish assistant the
EE is In every Spanish woman's eyes 3
meath the flashing Of the surface
suggestion Of sadness. Some SpaniI
women smoke cigarettes but very fe
and none at all in public. The han
soonest women are In Cadiz and
Seville. In the cold and changeat
IclImate Of Madrid they resemble u
feminine inhabitants Of Chicago.
f0T FOLLOWING THE LADTB-TRArSs.
III The Spanish railway coach reset
u bles somewhat those in use in 9th
ch European countries 1t opens at q
sides instead Of at the end. There a
ut three compartments in each coach
~ holding from eight 10 ten persons wi