The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1902-10-18
FASHIONS OF PARIS.
embroidery to Be the Rage During
Coming Season

Embroidery to Be the Rage Durini
Coming Season.
Paris, Sept. 25-Embroiderv of ever,
description will be pre-eminent durint
the coming season, and there are {
NUMBER of distinct novelties in it which
seem destined to make a sensation anC
are certainly most effective.
one OF the most striking of these new
Kinds of embroidery, especially destined
Tor heavy cloth gowns and the early
IAN coats, is of white silk over a cord
Ing i1.1graduated thicknesses forming
as it were series of rolls twisted into
a quaint design
The effect, if one may make such q
comparison to be explicit, is exactly as
IL one had taken thick silk paste and
squeezed 1t on the garment in fantas-
TIC shape. Wide white silk button holes
corresponding with the principal en-
oroidery complete this style of trim
ming.
Cloth coats trimmed with it are made
in two parts as it were. a bolero
stitched on to a skirtlike ruffle There
is nothing gaudy about this kind of en-
bellishment in the way of trimming,
put 1t possesses a stamp that is partic-
ularly Partisan.
Another striking embroidery is of
black and white haircloth interviewer
with blue chenille and edged with blue
SILK woven into the haircloth. This is
one of the novelties, a creation of an
artist of the Rue Royal, which is rap
IDLY commencing to rival the Rue de la
PalX, and, indeed, some of the smart
est shops, at present exceedingly pop
ular, established along the Rue Royal
famous during the empire, but which
upon the fall of the latter gradually
degenerated into a humdrum street. un-
Ill several years ago. when its regen-
GRAFTON commenced, and at present
much of its past glory is slowly being
restored and the movement of the fash
ionable dressmakers towards the Rue
Royal is even worrying colleagues
along the Rue de Ia Paix.
~
1t may seem exceedingly curious, but
the tight fitting black silk coat, or
rather mantle cloak, of our grand
mothers, modified by the addition of
up-to-date sleeves and other accesso-
ries, is among the smartest of the new
wraps for calling and carriage wear
i had the good fortune to see one of
these cioaks made for a fashion leader
of pleasure loving French society in
three stages-the first, or preliminary
stage, when single piece of wide faille
silk stitched and shaped entirely be
means of two seams, one on each side
under the arms, and four darts formed
the foundation garment: the second
stage. when the addition of velvet
shoulder capes, tiny affairs meant as
upper sleeves, and velvet bands of
trimming had been added; and the
third. or final stage, when loose. pic
turesque chiffon sleeves, falling from
under the tiny shoulder capes, gave a
dressy, finished air to the cloak. IT
was one of the most successful of the
years models-more elegant in form
than the loose, sacklike cloaks which |
have been so much seen for two sea-
sons past, for, while the tight fitting |
body Of the garment gives the figure |
an advantageous appearance the loose.
graceful sleeves add that "f1ou'' air, |
without which no really Partisan gar /
ment at present is complete. l think |
one en- safely predict great success for
this style of cloak, and it is an indica-
ton that the new note in the matter of
coats and cloaks will be closely fitting
bodies of all the prettiest garments. re-
lieved by large bouffant sleeves.
am quite surprised to note the num-
Der Of new models "a la princess in a,
severity Of style that would delight
the dress reformers. Yokes of heavy
lace are now much used on princess
gowns, otherwise, with the execution
OF some innovations in the matter of
trimming and color combination, the
princess gown for the coming season
will much resemble that of last year.
% % 9
A feature about the new cloth skirts
Is the use Of tucks on them. The tuck
ing must be skillfully DONE and gowns
thus ornamented are at present ex-
expensive, owing the great
amount Of work about them The
tucking is done in horizontal fashion
in bands of two inches wide three tun-
ming around the skirt and two over the
hips. AS the work of tucking is done |
directly on the skirt itself, the ad-
iusting of the latter to fit the figure
S exceedingly difficult. and commands | J
he best skill. The corsage is similarly
tucked, and the sleeves have bands of
he tucking running from the wrist to
he shoulder The best Illustration of !
his new mode Of trimming which l
saw was a blue satin cloth gown with
/ tiny dash of red added to il, Just
lbove each band of trimming, to set it s
If
False tucks of cloth are rapidly re-
,lacing ruffies on cloth skirts, an inch {
sllO d udlI III Wlulus ana OIlen SIlCcned !.
n five or seven rows. The same tucks !
n velvet are added to dressy cloth !
uits, while velvet stripes, covering the
cams and finishing in points or round, :
re also in high favor.
Originality in design and coioring is
remarkably in evidence,
nd no two gowns are alike One
night even say that the days for even S
resemblance of costumes, save in v
ONE few general notes, are passed. d
Zach woman wants her own especially a
esigned toilet, and it quite seems to o
e the fashion in every other line of d
ress; and as for hats, they are now G
haped and trimmed on the heads of
he futkre wearer. While the best
ressed women always had their hats U
lade for them, the present custom in :,
be great establishments of literally u
laking up the entire hat on the head "
comparatively recent and decidedly ~
tactical, as al lforms and trimming :,
an thus be exactly suited to the face. h
Grace Corneau in Chicago Tribune. -