Montour American. (Danville, Pa.) 1866-1920, 1902-04-24

rows of white insertion in even lines
above the hem. This skirt is cut quite
straight and gathered at the waist.
The two rows Of white lace around the
bottom are but part of the general
scheme, for the belt is the same, and
the deep founce to the sleeves is also
trimmed with it. These insertion laces
are SO planned that they can be set
on edges by gathering the upper edge
and sewing it as though it were bOr-
der Fiet lace is quite n new one for
this kind Of trimming and it has prov
ed very effective The Irish and other
real laces are quite rs popular as they
have been, but the very heavy varie-
ties are in less demand, as most of the
gowns and other garments are Of light
er material, and to look its best the
thick lace requires cloth, velvet and
other rich material.
An innovation in sleeves is to have
the sleeve proper end at or just below
the elbow in ii puff and deep hounce
left open on the forearm or cut 50 that
he back portion is at least three times
onger than the front. OF course this
elates only to the regular dress sleeves
md not to the separate waists or
shirt waists
The shirt waist, as 4 whole, is too
great a subject for complete discus
sion, but a few words may be said re-
garding a few of the newest ideas.
The waists differ very little from those
4 last summer Whatever difference
here is consists more in the arrange
nent Of the plaits and the front fold
han anything The very newest is to
lave the fold laid at the shoulder just
bOvc the arm size, and this goes dag
InaIIy To the center Of the front at the
Jottom This leaves the whole front
ooking somewhat like a shield bosom
d shirt. In many instances these
ronts are then left perfectly smooth,
Iut in others there are many fine tucks
long the front fold. All waists are
Douched quite as much as they ever
Iave been, but the pouching is all
rOught quite close to the middle in
rOnt This leaves the back and sides
rim and neat, with no bagginess.
here are no yokes to the shirt waists
f whatever kind for this season, and
he most Of them have no pIaits or
ucks at the back. The back is fin
she'd with a couple of plaits taken in
the bottom only.
Perhaps | should not say that no
7aists are tucked at the back, for
Iany are, but the tucks reach to the
boulder and do not finish with yoke.
ONE Of the shield shaped fronts are
.dicuIous, but others are prctty-for
'ender persons, but let the stout ones
eware of them. 1t would appear that
re object Of them is to produce the
ppearance Of width over the shoul-
ers. Some Of these Shield shapes
ave bretelles down the back to the
elt
/ see but few waists butt0ning in the
ack, while many Of those fastening
/ front have such pretty arrange
ents Of the buttons that they are real
ornamental, besides being useful.
he taffeta waists are laid in tucks,
me both back and front. The tucks
e in clusters Of small ones, with one
rye one between Sometimes this
ide one is overlaid with lace or fine
ncy braid and ribbon. silk or velvet,
in between the holes
Black velvet ribbon IS still largely
ed to trim such waists and also fine
nbroidery In short, one can have
lythlng almost in the way Of a shirt
aist, and ii will be all right.
HENRIETTE ROUSSEAU