Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-09-20
ELEGANT READY MADES."

at the top, where habit backs. fitting with
out wrinkle, and short hip yokes are dis
tinctive features of the newest styles.
Some degree of train is also everywhere
observable, but being less stiffened than
formerly the founcing bottoms fall with
considerably more grace. Another point
for congratulation is that the hideous
"symmetricals"-th graphic stage term
which, for season or more built out too
meager hips, have had their day. The hips
of the fashionable woman must look small
whether they are or not, and the smaller
they look the better.
A trio of charming street gowns delight
fully illustrate these subtle but necessary
points. Two demonstrate the invading hip
yoke, which in all cases is cut short at the
back and to dip downward at the front.
Never Is such a line departed FROM it is
intended that the curve of the yoke must
follow that of the girdle, which at the front
curves more than ever low.
Satin-Finish Cloth.
French cloth-the sort of broadcloth that
has satiny finish-in one of the new blues
composes the more elegant of the three
costumes. very handsome embroidery in
blue and black ornaments the blouse waist,
but the skirt depends entirely upon stitched
strappings of the same cloth for trimming.
These outline hip yoke and graduated
flounce. horizontal bands running between
at every narrow gore. At the bottom the
gore bands cross the f1ounce one, the ends
pointed and graduating in length, showing
longest at the back.
With the rich embroidery mentioned
more bands appear upon the bodice. shap-
ing a corset girdle shoulder caps and cuff
bands for the sleeves. The tucked vest is
of white mousseline, crossed by narrow
strings of black panne. These hold together
the embroidered blouse fronts, whose splen-
dor Is further emphasized by large buttons
of sapphire and silver. A black mousseline
praI- 1f GINA t1
folded girdle is of the black panne.
The second gown in point of elegance is
also blue, for blue you know Is Fashions
latest caprice. She does not confine herself
to any particular shade, but offers tints for
every taste, Legitimate blues-our old
friends the navy shades-and 'llegitimate"
ones, If we may use the word, for some CT
the numberless mad-tinted dyes. The old
time sky blue. rebaptised azure, Is a favor
lite color for airy evening gowns, and a new
and very eccentric tint is called "gaslight
blue"
Trimmings of black and white deck many
of these radiant colors the combinations
showing in braids with a tartan weave and
checked silks. On bewitching house gown
of pale blue French cashmere black and
white checked silk was used with a sur
prisingly smart effect Also 1t suggested
dazzling possibilities In the way of economy
for such silks are never dear. and short
remnants in them can always be found.
In English Serge.
But to return to our second frock, whose
texture is no more than English serge, In a
lightweight quality. The unlined skirt is
lightly tucked and falls from a scalloped
hip yoke over black taffeta drop which,
you know, Is dressmaker's jargon for lin
ing. The trimming is narrow black braid,
put on the skirt in an odd band to simu-
late a graduated founce. On the bodice,
which goes under the belt at the back ard
has Elton fronts. the braid is differently dis
posed.
number of rows, closely massed, form
border for the cut-out neck and fronts
which lap slightly, some scattered ends of
braid, finished with heavily embroidered
knots, giving the necessary look of rela-
tionship with the skirt. Similar sWirls or
nament the dropping puffs of the sleeves.
whose upper portions more than usually
accentuate the present closely at this point.
The third gown, though made with less