Omaha daily bee., 1902-11-16

French capital gowns in colors never seen
before are worn by the smartest Of the
smart, the ball-like hues cling subdued by
simple trimmings. Some of the bright cloth
dresses sent over to us have, indeed, no
other decoration than careful stitching.
When these are worn one remarks that
the odd little Etons and blouse Jackets
cover splendid lace bodices, or else waists
of silk muslin adorable with hlmy inser-
tions and exquisite needlework. Simplicity,
in short, is only a phrase where good
clothes are concerned, for the most ingenue
results are often the most expensive. In
the ateliers OF the great French makers an
order for simplicity is accepted as permits
sion for extra expenditure. Not understand
ing this one American beauty demurred,
whereupon monsieur raised his shoulders
expressively:
Madam" he said, had l suspected that
you did not know the value of great artists.
l should never have placed them at your
service"
The most gifted hands OF his /workroom.
designers and sewers reserved for exclusive
patronage, had performed the feat In sim
plicity.
In gown stuffs one notices a growing
catholicitv OF taste. Heavy and airy tex
tiles appear side by side. and figured and
nlain materials hold equal place in favor.
SOFT woods, extr~avagantly hairy. are nsed
with velvet or braid trimmings for many
smart street gowns, some OF the brown
shades in these comically suggesting the
hides Of our monkey ancestors.
Furs In High Favor.
In truth, the modes of the hour have a
strong animal leaning, with fur trimmings
dog faces on umbrella handles. Neverthe-
less, the return to savagery Is becoming,
and one fnds in the new fur coats. which
are so easy IN At, admirable buffers against
the blasts which only too long invaded our
inadequate hneries. True, the fur wearing
season in most states is not long, but while
It lasts one may as we'll be comfortable
and, Fashion insisting upon fur, the ex-
travagance is doubly necessary.
An inexpensive and stylish pelt to re.
member is German sable. which initiates
the markings OF the real skin. Very swag.
gering short coats are to be found In this
and, II they are not quite as elegant as
the same box models in Siberian squirrel
they are at least a deal cheaper.
The big soft muff, which covers the
hands like a fiat bag. is also seen in this
1 AAlt blNG hAAAO NhAaN0Ay < . ~ nGC
piece to match. The reason OF this, the ful
people explain, is because German sable
is too coarse and rough for the throat, anC
II they are strictly truthful people the,
will add that, except to lie over the shout
ders like an ornament, fur boas Of any sor
are not now greatly in favor. They hav,
been found too heating, too conducive Il
coughs and colds, and so with the fur coats
all Of which have turn-down collors, scarf
are worn.
Bigger and bigger grow hats-that is, II
circumference, for they are still as nat a
pancakes at the top.
With evening gowns white velvet toque
are in favor, with tulle sometimes cover
ing the pleats at the top Of the big struc
ture and lunches Of velvet grapes, wit
foliage massed evenly at the sides. Velve
1owers, indeed. are much seen and tn
humble perennials OF the door yard bloor
on the proudest headgear.
On toques Of deep blue or violet velvet
phlox, in shaded puppies, is a frequen
garnishing, and brown velvet hats traI
with tinted autumn leaves. almost a
natural as those on the hillsides. era
apples. with a pink and yellow check; holl
berries. bitter-sweet and mistletoe also ar
pear In these velvet trimmings.
Altogether there is great Improvement 1
headgear and the woman OF taste need n
longer pay a fortune for her thatch. Ma
shapes OF mingled velvet and felt braid, o