Evening star., 1902-03-15
CANVASS-BACK DUCK.
Why It Tastes Better in Washington
Than Elsewhere

4 do not understand why canvas back
duck in Washington tastes better than the
same bird in Minneapolis remarked A
visitor from the west to a resident. as they
were dining In a fashionable uptown res
taurant few evenings ago
'Oh. but 1t does, replied the Washing
tonian. picking up piece or celery and
sprinkling 1t with salt "and there is a
good reason for II. This piece OF celery I
am eating is the product of the farmer. bu.
the wild celery. which is natures product,
and grows in profusion I'm The marshes OF
the Chesapeake and the Potomac Is the
dessert. as 1t were, not only of the canvas
back duck from hereabouts. but also of the
famous Chesapeake terrapn. Both the
DUCK and the turtle eat Ii and fatten upon
1t. and 1t imparts that peculiar flavor to
the flesh of each which makes the latter
superior to the southern or Biloxi terrapn.
and the former superior to the canvas
back you shoot on the lakes Of Minnesota
and elsewhere.
This has been the worst season We have
had for game of all kinds in this vicinity
for many years. continued the Washing
ton sportsman. "and the dealers tell me 1t
Is the worst In years regards both tho
quality and the demand for game. Tho
grouse from the west and the quail from
nearby are all very thin, or poor as they
say. brace OF canvas-back ducks in av-
erage good condition ought to weigh six
pounds. and they are worth S. retail. This
season they do not average more than
from three to four pounds a brace, and
there Is scarcely any meat under their
thick covering OF feathers. / fancy the
main reason why the demand has fallen
of. and 1t has been very heavy, is because
the regular consumers OF these luxurIes
discovered early In the season the poor
condition OF game. and, as there has been
no Improvement. they discontinued their
purchases. as game Is too expensive to
buy unless 1t Is In fine condition.
Nv Haala toll ha fhnr Ia,- th,t
he had had sent down from New York
some English grouse. the first that has
come to Washington. We having relied upon
the local supply. Under ordinary condi-
tions American grouse are fat and good
eating. but this year they scarcely
worth cooking. The English grouse are
fat. the flesh firm and dark like our own
bird. He also showed me some English
plover. 1t certainly does seem odd TO inn
port birds from England into this country.
the home Of game of all kinds, but the inn
ported birds were in excellent condition,
despite their long journey in ice chests.
THE flavor of the toothsome terrapin has
not been up to past seasons. and the de-
mand for the diamond-back has also fallen
off. why | cannot ascertain, unless there
is a scarcity of wild celery or ii Is OF
year as to the succulency Of the grass.
The price rules the same. however-S5 for
terrapin measuring from five to nine inches
in length. The Chesapeake terrapin deserves
it's worldwide reputation, and is way ahead
OF the real diamond-back from the south,
1 would not dignity the so-called slider
turtle Of inferior degree. by naming 1t in
the same breath with the genuine diamond
back The Biloxi terrapin is very dark.
almost black, as to shell and flesh, and
upon comparing 1t with the Chesapeake
terrapin, which is Of q perceptibly lighter
green. it is lik. comparing a bright red ap-
pie to black one In contrast These
Biloxi terrapin. however. sell for the genu-
inc Chesapeake production. and few who
eat them know the difference. Honest deal
ers who would not sell slider for the
real damond-back do not hesitate to mix
the Biloxi with the Chesapeake, as the
original cost and freight charges bring the
wholesale price we'll up to the cost OF the
Chesapeake turtle"