The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1902-03-14

| be more pleasant than the voyage out
of the bay and along the coast Of Maui
for several hours. The sea was calm,
and the little steamer glided SO smooth
! " that one was likely to be deceived
thinking he was on pleasure trip, and
take liberties at the table.
Opposite Maui, that is. on the south
west side of the island. lies Lanai. 1t
presents a smooth outline. The land
rises with very gradual slope to-
ward the center, and the highest point
is in the vicinity of 1900 feet. No trees
or forest are visible. 1t is said to be
too dry to produce anything but native
grasses. Though only a dozen miles
from Maui, it has not one-fourth the
rainfall. and cane cannot be made to
grow. 1t is said they once raised bar
ley and wheat there, but it is now
given over to a cattle range, nearly all
owned by four people. 1t has no springs
nor streams. and water for stock has
to be collected in cisterns.
About 9 p. m. the steamer began her
capers. but we had anticipated this
circumstance, and were safe in our
hunks, where we were almost undisturb-
ed by seasickness. When one has had
some experience he learns how to keep
from rolling out of bed when the boat
lurches. but hold tight as you may TO
the side of your bunk, bracing yourself
with knees and elbows, you can't lie
still enough to sleep, but you can lie
and think and wonder and listen-there
is plenty to be heard as you round the
northern end of Hawaii. Everything
that isn't tied goes humping about
over the floors and in the hold. The
boat, and the spray sometimes comes
into the open window of your upper
deck stateroom. There is always a |
breeze along this northeastern co;st of |
Hawaii. Often the breeze increases to }
a stiff gale. as IL did the night we |
came, when one of the sails was torn !
away, and the captain swore himself !
hoarse at the deckhands in saving the ,
other. But we had steam, so, as the |
sail had to be reefed anyway, the loss
Of one didn't trouble us much.
This coast consists of rugged cliffs |
from one to three hundred feet high, |
with no protecting reef, no bay nor in
ct until you come to Hilo. But they
and passengers and freight at a few
places in very inconvenient way. The
morning we came it was too dangerous
% bring the steamer in close enough
o permit landing at Honokaa, so we
lad to be landed at another place. The
BOAT anchored at about two hundred
ards from the perpendicular cliffs. A
,oat was lowered with four Japanese
ailors at the oars. We were ordered
o jump into the boat which danced up
nd down beside the steamer, some
lines making rather alarming leaps.
sut with plenty of help and rope
adder. were were safely shipped.
AS the little boat dived from summit
o trough of the great waves, it looked
ute dangerous, but not so bad as the
lew toward the shore, where the
raves beat fiercely against the rocks
oward which we We're moving. How
yer. we were comforted with the
bought that we could probably save
urSelves by swimming il it came to
ne worst, not then knowing that this
cast is fearfully beset with sharks
hitch go about seeking natives and
II sorts of people to devOur, most of
II enjoying the upsettinS of a boat
vhen such a thing occurs, it is said
nat the best swimmers seldom get
shore, but are drawn under by these
'ightful monsters.
In due time we came under a box
winging by a cable from a crane.
uiclxly the box was grasped, and four
f us were hurried into it, and with
lail bags and satchels piled around
nd upon us we were pulled up seven
y-five feet into the air, then slowly
Yung around to a platform, from
hich an inclined railing carried us
D to the top of the cliff. 100 feet high.
rom there a stage with a pig under
lie back seat, carried us to Honokaa.
small village among the cane-covered
ills. where we are now spending a
ew weeks.-J. L. McClelland, in Fres-
o Republican.