Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1902-07-24

ONES FIRST ARRIVAL IN vENICE-A ONCE
GLORIOUS PLACE THE sPLENDoR OF
WHICH HAS GoNE-sT. Marks CHURCH
AND THE DUCAL PALACE-THE GLASS
FAcToRIEs-oLD PICTURES, ETC.
From Norristown Daily Herald, June 23l.
From Florence to Bologna we crossed a
most picturesque country. The railroad
is another example of the ability Of the
Italians as engineers Our journey was
made more pleasant by the fact that an
officer in the Italian army made it his es-
pecial work to call our attention to the
interesting points. After leaving Pistoia
memorable for the defeat of Catiline in
81 B. c., we assembled the Apenines, two
engines being required to surmount the
very steep grades. More than twenty tun-
nels have been drilled through the rock,
some of considerable length. The romantic
scenes and ever widening landscapes which
flashed upon us from time to time seemed
even more Respondent after the spaces OF
darkness through which we passed. There
was a general expression of delight when
far below we saw the broad plains of Tus
cany, with Pistoja set in the midst of many
villages and towns.
The descent toward the Adriatic was made
in the picturesque valley of the Reno.
Often it was too narrow for road and river,
and the engineers again had recourse to
tunnels and viaducts, while the many
curves gave vantage ground for beautiful
vistas of wooded height, rugged rocks,
clinging village, and sparkling stream. On
the mountain side the goats were feeding,
slow-moving OK teams crossed the bridges,
while in the stream itself women were
washing clothes, and here and there men
were tilling little spaces where earlier in
spring the river had held dominion. Amid
such scenes as this the hours passed almost
unnoticed until our journey ended at
Bologna, where the night was to be spent.
The following morning we had an OPP
portunity to see something of this old city,
famous in the history of law, medicine and
physics. need not speak OF its renown as
having given its name to a food product.
1t rivals Pisa in possessing two leaning
towers, instead of one, but those of Bologna
are rude stacks in comparison to the beauti-
full campanile at Pisa. As l had gone to
Assist to visit the Church Of st. Francis
and his last resting place, so l went to the
Church of st. Dominica and stood in front
of his magnificent tomb, although l must
confess l am not as greatly interested in
him. Near by is the tomb of Guido REM,
whose picture we have so often seen in the
galleries of Rome and Florence. We saw
the old university building, which is now
used as public library, and visited the
cathedral, where Charles V was crowned.
The cathedral, like so many churches in
Italy, has an unfinished exterior, although
10 ,DAo 20
handsome than that of Florence. The most
interesting church in Bologna is unques-
tionably s. Stefano, really a conglomera-
ton of seven churches, founded in the 9Th
century, the latest development being the
main church which was built in 1887.
In leaving Bologna we again turned
away from the common line of travel in
order to visit Ravenna Several reasons
lmpelled us to make this pilgrimage. 1t
had been the rival of Rome as the seat of
empire. Odoacer had been its conqueror,
and Theodore had made it splendid by
his residence. That war-loving prince of
the church, Julius II added it by force to
the States of the Church. Here the exiled
Dante lived. Here are early Christian
churches untouched, almost, by Latin in
huence.
lightful. 1t was an ideal morning in June,
and mile after mile we rode through
lovely country, past fertile fields of waving
grain. The fragrance of the new mown
hay and the vine blossoms, the golden
added charm to all we saw. The great
banks told of low-lying country, Hol-
land of the south it seemed. Ravenna it
Ill hut no
is several miles distant.
We drove out to SAINT Apollinare in
Classe Fuvis, three miles from Ravenna.
1t was consecrated in $40, and still retains
it's ancient form. The dove of the tribuna
is Respondent with prosaics placed there
100 years ago. at least. Thence we re-
turned to the city to visit the new SAINT
Apollinare, erected as an Arian Church and
converted in its use in $50. To stand with
in such place makes real that great
struggle between Arianism and Ortho-
doxy. A little distance away is st. John
the Evangelist, aud there four small fres-
Goes record the fact that Giotta visited his
friend Dante in Ravenna. Words will not
express the beauty of the mosaics of S.
Vitale, built three years later than SAINT
| Apollinare Nuovo, but its great magnii-
cence in decoration was probably due to
| the fact that it was the court church.
Close by it the more ancient church or,
as it is called. the Mousoleum of Gala
| Placida. Its rich mosaics date from the
9TH century. Behind the communion table
is the sarcophagus of Gala Placidia, who
died in the year 450 Her body was burned
over 400 years ago, it is said by children
pushing tapers into the sarcophagus to
better see the seated empress.
Dante's tomb was near the hotel, oppo-
site house in which he was once guest.
Nearer still was the house in which Lord
Byron wrote Childe Harold.
Before the day closed we witnessed an
other celebration connected with the feast
of Corpus Christi. From different direc-
tions professions of children, white-robed
and yelled, came to the church to take
part in the exhibition and benediction of
the host. The service was far more con-
gregational than at Florence, and the pro-
cession was much more beautiful, as one
may well imagine. l also noted greater
reverence, but far less than that which
marked such services some years ago, if |
am rightly informed.
VENICE.
Ones first arrival in Venice must be a
perpetual milestone in life, for it is SO
different from any other experience. From
Ravenna we had looked forward to our ar
rival, in pleasurable anticipation, and
counted the miles as we rode, happy when
we caught the first sight of the campanile.
[ think the silence impressed me first. No
din of creaking drays, rattling cabs, or
rumbling cars told Of our presence in a
busy city. There by the steps of the station
was long line of black gondolas, each
man patiently waiting his turn to secure
passengers, so that we did not heed the
hotel runners. Then to sit back in COM
fort to enjoy quiet ride to the hotel was a
new experience At once we were struck
with the skill and patience of the gondolier,
and quietly learned to place the utmost
confidence in his efforts, no matter what
obstacles were in his way, or how narrow
the passage might seem. l do not wonder
that people return year after year to such a
city. Why, it is restful even to think of
our long rides on the canals of Venice, and
| know that hereafter its memory will be a
boon in the stress of work.
Venice of old must have been glorious