The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-12-06
GOWNS OF MANY SORTS
WHITE Is IN FAVOR WITH THOSE
WHO CAN AFFORD 1T.
Extravaganza the Rule, hut This Does
Not Prevent Indulgence in
Simplicity.


any sign of falling off, the preference Tor
white seems to grow apace and make even
a more dominant element in winter styles
than was the case with those of early
autumn. Wherever one goes, whichever
way one turns the fact is made apparent
and emphasized, for the white gowns out
number those of color upon all occasions
save those requiring street dress. AT the
moment the opera season is at its height,
and any survey of the boxes clearly dem
onstrates the favor in which white is held.
AS a matter of course colors are worn;
pinks and blues are perennial favorites
that never fail to appear. and many
dowagers are to be seen In black and dark
colored velvets. but white predominates
nevertheless and is TO be seen in all the
many ilmy materials at night in cloth and
the innumerable soft and clinging silks and
woods upon afternoon occasions.
AS have stated in previous letters, the
cloaks of the season are superb. The opera
has brought forth some peculiarly elegant
evening wraps and the December after
noon functions are showing some most ex-
quisite things in cloth and the like. Paris
set the fashion of a white gown a white
coat white hat and white furs for after
noon receptions. and this side of the
sea have been quick to seize upon the idea
and to make il our own. One of the hand
soonest costumes this season is ot
white satin-faced cloth with a half length
coat on the Louis order. of heavy crochet
lace over the cloth foundation. A most
elegant gown also is of cloth, with trim
ming of a heavy wool or yak lace that is
striking in the extreme. Heavy laces are
a craze. This wool sort is new and suits
1t is not closely like the yak of some
years ago in spite of the name. On the
white cloth ii is used in a rich creamy
shade, but is dyed to match those of color.
Cloth makes the favorite material for
cloaks, but some heavy silks are used, and
L have seen some of lace over chiffon that
more durable and has a distinct elegance
of its own. AS a rule the length is three
quarters and the shoulders are adorned with
tiny capes or cape collars. Daytime wraps
show FUR as revers, as collars and as cuffs
but those of the evening are almost uni
formly either lace trimmed or simply
over the delicate materials that are the
favorites of fashion and Is not general, al
though some smart women prefer IL 10 any
other finish DANGERS or drop ornaments
OF all sorts are much used, and many Of
the palmer coats show succession of
hanging cords and drops down the entire
front
GOWNS OF ONE COLOR.
an accessory, abounds. Some of the hand
soonest suits. for afternoon wear, show bod
ices of lace that are so strapped with cloth
as to become part of the costume, by no
means an odd waist. An exceedingly chic
white cloth, made with somewhat severe
skirt and coat. had a waist of French
crochet made deliberately and combined
with cloth. The sleeves are in Hungarian
style, their upper. cap-like portions of cloth
and cloth strappings are introduced in the
yoke and collar. AS l think / have men
toned in earlier letters, IL is a season OF
one-color gowns. Contrasts are COMPARE
lively little seen except where black and
white are used or bits of black are intro
duced to heighten an effect. Waists or
blouses of less heavy material than the
skirt are essential with coat and jacket
suits, but those of the better sort are made
In matching color. and often the material
is trimmed with the cloth as in the case of
the lace Contrasting waists are reserved
and the like with these most charming Gre
ations are worn for afternoons but the
plaln severe. simple shirtwaist is preferred
Ior the morning hours. No fashion as de-
sirable and as satisfactory as that of fancy
odd waists is at all likely to die but IL
has been much modified, and the best usage
has become just that stated above. with all
sorts or pretty things worn for the theater.
The shirtwaists of morning wear are
smart and are ideally comfortable. Many
materials are used. but preference is given
TO the many washable vestings that are
heavy enough for warmth, are essentially
stylish, yet allow of sending to the laundry
famlnar pique Is shown, with fleece back
ina. means warmth, and is always well
come, but the vestings newer and show
multitude of designs, with a mercerized
as we'll as a plain finish. Black with dots
OF Whlte is smart and serviceable, and white
with dots OF blue, red. pink and all colors
Is to be found. Wooden materials are the
Iamlllar nannel albatross. yelling and bril-
lantlne; but are shown in some novel de-
signs. Plain materials stripes, figures and
plaids all are worn so that ample onnor-
tunity for the exercise of taste and discre-
ton Is allowed Silks are always worn
In addition TO taffeta we have peau de
cygne for the simple waists and a dozen
varieties for those of more elaborate make
"A recent noevlty Is embroidered waist nat
terms, the foundation being white pea,i de
cygne and the work being executed in pale
tints. F
Evening gowns give marked evidence of
dinner and emi-toilette although some eY-
ceedlngly handsome gowns in color and in
black and white are seen. The princess
idea s1.e is favorite one and is always grace
ful, worn by slender, well-formed woman
An exceedingly elegant gown, that bears
evidence to the craze for jet is of black
net overlaid with ivy leaves of black velvet
the edges and veins of which are Iines ~
jet. The lower edge of the gown is of Irish
crochet in cream, which gives a fjounce
effect. Failing over this is the net cut I'm
pthCcoo olyic Will a low neck that is fin
ished with a bertha of the lace The
sleeves are of the net unined and in eI-
bow length, where they are finished with
deep, full falls of chiffon. The entire gown
is mounted over white silk yelled with chif
fon. Black velvet combined with hIanL
Chantilly, the lace over white silk chiffon
yelled, also is much liked and lends i,saIf
to the princess style with marked success
Shirrings are much used for net and ali
hlmy fabrics and are charming noet
dainty gown OF embroidered net has a fnIi
skirt arranged in tuck shirrings 10 form a
yoke, at founce depth and midway between
ANOTHER PRETTY GOWN
An entirely satisfactory demi toilet gown
is of white crepe de chine with deep point
ed yoke of cream point de venise. and owes
its effect almost entirely to the cord shir-
rings in skirt and waist The skirt is full
after a favorite Pacquin style, and is
shirred to give a pointed girdle effect at
| iounce depth and again above to form a
deep puff. each group consisting of four
cords. At the edge of the skirt is a chiffon
ruche and above it are applied white chiffon
roses. The bodice Is soft and full below the
| yoke, with sleeves shirred closely AT the
shoulders a few inches below formin.. a
| puff between, and in one row at the elbows
| where they fall with disappointed frills
| On the corsage Is worn a big chou OF pal
green chiffon with ends that fall to tho
| edge of the skirt. The chiffon flowers and
/ the chou both mark notable features of the
/ season. The flowers exquisitaly dainty
| and are shown in white and pale pink with
bits of green. so making most attractive
I IT.