The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-09-06
A FEW FALL NOVELTIES
FIRST COOL DAYS BRING THOUGHTS
OF WARDROBE RENEWALS.
The New Tailor Suits Show a Variety
of Styles-COats of Many Kinds
New Shirtwaists.

Correspondence OF the Indianapolis Journal.
NEW YORK, Sept. 3.-With the opening
Of September has come the regular yearly
exhibition of autumn novelties, and in spite
of present and predicted heat, there is an
air of business and renewed activity about
the importing houses that is in marked
contrast to the lethargy of August. The
first point of interest, after the hats, of
which L told you last week, is always the
early fall suits. House gowns. dinner
gowns, evening gowns, all claim their
share of attention later, when the season
is more fully declared, but for the time
being there is nothing that rivals the suits
of cameIs hair. of cheviot, of zibeline and
the like. 1 think / have already mentioned
Norfolk styles, that promise to be so popu-
lar for runabout use, and the fact that
utility skirts are made to clear the ground.
In addition we are now seeing some charm
ing costumes with blouses, that include
basques over the hips and many of which
show the tiny shoulder capes that are so
generally becoming. Favorite materials
are rough as to surface and show fecks
of white, broken checks and plaids. Skirts
are of many sorts. AS / stated In a pre-
vious letter, f1ounces will not disappear
in vogue. but they are more often seen
upon the skirts of greater length than
these that are cut comfortably, but far
from exaggeratedly short. Plaits, both the
box and side plaits, genuine kits and plain
styles, all are seen. With the Norfolks the
box plaits are both harmonious and eff
fective, but many admirable results are
obtained by using applied straps over the
seams that match those Of the coats and
terminate in points at the lower edges
The black and blue cheviots fiecked with
white are charming. but nothing seems to
be quite smart as the broken checks
and the almost invisible plaids 1t is to
be plaid season. so it is said, but rumors
Of that sort always are rife at this time
of the year, and it is quite too early to
be certain how permanent will be their
hold.
THE ETON is PASSE
| Among the few facts that seem fixed and
certain is the almost total disuse of the
| Elton. Blouse coats are correct and are
| admirable for the shorter folk, but the
| Elton is not seen among the models shown
| so far. In place of the jaunty little Jackets
| that have been dear to our hearts for SO
long time there is. however, a newer and
not less fascinating little coat that par
takes of its general characteristics, yet diff
| fers in some essential points and is alb
| solutely new. The back is short, cut off
| above the belt line, but the fronts are
| elongated to fall several inches below the
waist and are quite loose, in box style AS
| yet il has been seen only In combination
| with long skirts, designed for occasions of
dress and has always included big and
! somewhat fancy sleeves, but just what the
| future holds IL is impossible to predict
| The coats are really charming and allow
of most picturesque treatment as to the
| sleeves, while their coming means also an
era of handsome belts and elaborate slides
| and pins. Being short at the back they
| reveal the entire belt, and whenever that
| Is the case ornamentation of all sorts is
| certain to follow, SC look out for jeweled
| slides. for exquisite pins and for all the
| pretty effects possible to obtain. The
| sleeves make feature, as do those of the
| large and full below the elbows, while
many OF them are slit at the outside 10
| allow the introduction of falls of chiffon
| and the like. An exceedingly handsome
| costume of mixed Zibeline. showing rich.
| warm blue with black, combines a coat OF
| the sort with an extremely novel skirt and
serves TO illustrate one of the new sleeves
| that promises TO be much liked. The skirt
| is made with snug upper portion that
| takes the form of yoke and extends
| nearly one-thrd of its entire length and a
lower portion that is circular and is laid
in two box plaits at the back, side plaits
at intervals from back to front and falls
| in most fascinating folds. The circular cut
means ample fullness and flare about the
feet. while the actual depth OF the plaits al
the upper portion is slight. The coat is OF
the sort just described with novel sleeves
that are bishop in shape but slit at the
outer portions from the cuffs to the elbows
and left free at the cuffs for several inches
while big puffs OF blue chiffon fall through
the openings. Both skirt and coat are
trimmed with stitched bands of black and
blue. and with the gown is a most be-
witching waist of blue chiffon. Get away
from the separate waist We cannot so Ions
as those suits are worn. but the decree OF
the season is for those of the filmiest ma.
J terials and OF harmonizing color. Chiffon