The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-09-13
GOWNS FOR THE SEASON
TIME WHEN WOMEN ENGAGE IN RE-
MODELLING AND REFURBIsHING.
Some Features of the Styles that Are
Likely to BE Popular when the
Autumn Is Further Advanced.

| Correspondence of the Indianapolis Journal.
NEW YORK, Sept. I.--However much We
| may be interested in cold weather cos
| tunes, whatever fascination the considera-
| ton of heavy wraps, of furs and the ike
may exercise, the question that is most
pertinent of ALL that comes home to every
woman who aims to be we'll dressed Is
that of immediate needs. Summer mas
passed and gone To the greater number
of womankind that fact means also that
wardrobes are depleted, gowns soiled or
| bedragged, costumes passe and that the
next few weeks must be provided for at
once. Few buyers. save those of extreme
wealth, care to purchase many gowns Oh
such uncertain weight, few careful women
desire to find themselves overstocked when
! fashions are as yet bit uncertain, styles
| have not had time to adjust themselves
and, as a result remodeling and refurbish-
ing is going apace. AS yet nothing dis
tinctly new has made itself so far appar-
ent as to render the cut and style OF the
| summer passe. If the material can be
| freshened, new ribbons, bit of fresh lace,
mayhap the introduction of contrasting
| will so far remodel the garment as to make
| IT not passable only, but acceptable Tor
| some weeks to come. Our autumn weather
is proverbially mild. Wolfe. yelling light,
|
materials from the viewpoint of comfort
| While lightweight cloth is always accepta-
BILE and it is always we'll to provide one
| self with one such, these less heavy gowns
| are liable to be already on hand and can
| be renewed and made acceptable with little
| labor and little cost.
| The features of advance styles are snug
| fitting skirts. dropping shoulders, box
plaits. loose wraps and elaborate sleeves
of all sorts. AS have had occasion to
| say again and again, variety is the keynote
| of ALL Never has such range of choice
in material, in color and in style been Of
! fered. Again elaborate handwork is seen
on all the best gowns, and, grieve as do
| to say Ii, trimming is applied upon trim
ming until 1t seems hardly possible to go
| amiss unless one be guilty of preference
for simplicity and confess to liking for
little trimming, for unbroken lines and
similar fundamentally good things that
seem to have sunk hopelessly out of sight
| For immediate street wear veiings, etamlne
and brilliantine are much liked. If the
| gown of the summer is not so fresh as it
would be we'll for 1t to be, contrasting yoke
| and cuffs can be added and tiny cape OF
harmonizng silk made to wear over the
shoulders The capes are newer than boas,
are seen upon many of the best models
touch. Silk with chiffon is essentially
| smart for the early days of autumn, and
| besides being chic is always becoming
| Later similar things will be seen in cloth,
but we are discussing immediate need, and
these lighter wraps are, therefore, of the
| greater moment. We are to have numbers
| Ol
quently a skirt can be remodeled on these
lines and hung over a founce of silk of
plisse chiffon and so made practically new
and charming at the same time. Silk hens
attached by faggoting are correct. The
addition of one to the lower edge of a skirt
renders 1t fresh and inviting at once, while
the blouse also can be renewed by similar
means. l am in no way certain that the
designers had any such end in view, but
matter of fact these hens are in them
selves an economic boom We all know how
| edge a m a.
terial, even if it could be added would only
emphasize the state of that which had been
worn, but these contrasting hens mean
freshness and daintiness without any such
drawback. The faggoting is simple and can
be done quite readily by any woman who
is at all deft and clever. With hem add
ed to the skirt and yoke of bands to the
waist the entire gown would become prac-
tically new, while the cost and the labor
involved would be small in the extreme.
Again, trains for gowns of informal wear
are being curtailed and ii is often possible
to get rid of much soil in that way. Foun-
dalton skirts should be dainty and fresh.
but more often the finishing flounce than
| the entire skirt needs to be renewed. BY
replacing that and sponging the upper
portion much can be accomplished and
often the purchase of gown saved.
Latest advices assure us that habit backs
have come and that are to be snug
about the hips to the point of resembling
the eel. Ii the summer gown is made with
fullness at the back 1t always can be re-
moved if the dressmaker is clever. Making
loose skirts from tight is the impossible.
but fullness can be eliminated without
undue trouble.
NEW STREET GOWNS.
For the new street gowns nothing is bet
ter than cloth camels-ha of light
weight, yelling, etamine and canvas Zibe-
line is shown and is exceedingly handsome
but gives the effect of weight and OF
warmth, whatever the fact may be- Fa-
vorite colors the always serviceable
dark blue, gray, green, brown and all the
list of tans. Among the blues the new
Rhone deserves special mention, while wood
browns, cuirasse gray and the lovely sage
greens cannot be passed by. Again plaids
are much liked and really charmingly
| effective and smart for utility costumes
AS a rule. colors for these last are not
bright, but rather quiet in tone, with lines
of gay color Frightening the more subdued
tones. A really new and exceedingly mod
sh suit is made with the fashionable Nor
folk coat and skirt laid in three box plats
at front and back. with hip yoke portions
between. Beneath the coat is to be worn a
silk blouse of plain color matching the pre-.
dominant one in the plaid. The accompany
ing hat is a broad, low sailor of soft felt
velvet trimmed with shining black wings
as contrast. The skirt is long, but not
nearly Objectionable those of last
year. 1t has been hoped and asserted dur.
ing these last few weeks that length would
be still further curtailed and skirts to clear
the ground generally worn, but thus far
see little sign of such regeneration. Short
skirts seen and are worn. but the
est costumes continue to show those thai
do scavenger's duty when worn upon the
streets. Just why women should be Sc
blind to health, hygiene and nicely do MOI
know. Somewhere recently L saw the state
!, ment made that really smart women never
lifted their skirts, let the occasion be wha
it might. 1nasmuch such a proceeding
must inevitably mean contact with sol
= against which the refined soul cannot fai
to protest, and our smart women ar.
especially dainty, its absurdity is far too
1 apparent to require contradiction but tn.
e sad truth remains that those designed To-
, street wear are longer than the law of per
feet cleanliness would allow.
Blouse Jackets and blouse bodices boil
are much seen. For delicious Septembe
| and early October weather the boas O
| feathers, of chiffon and silk or the we,
. capes already mentioned give all tn
5 warmth required and numberess gowns
. are made with blouse bodices and designet
to be worn. most charming one O
c etamine in soft sage green shows the fash
ionabe box plaits TO advantage and is com
bined with twine-colored lace. The Skin
[ fits with sheath-ike snugness about tn
hips but flares below the knees, where 1
is finished with a deep graduated box
plated fiounce. The blouse is box plated
both yoke and deep cuffs of the lace
( while bands of panne. darker than the ma
s terial are arranged 10 interlace the plaits
| which, by the way. faced and set on [,
form a heading. Another is of cloth AM