Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-11-08
A NIGHTS JOURNEY
Hardships of a Diligence Ride
Across the Caucasus.
IN ABSOLUTE SILENCE
NO BIRDS OR INSECTS BREAK
THE INTENSE QUIET.
Amusement Follows Annoyance at
the Actions of Drivers and
Courier.
IN ABSOLUTE SILENCE
Written for The Evening Star.

Caucasus from the distance of several thou
sand miles and another to start on the same
trip in a rain which comes down so heavily
that it nearly breaks through the top Of
your diligence.
We set forth, however, in spite of warn
ings that the streams would be impossible
and the lower country flooded, for our con-
ductor or guide backed us up in our de-
termination to start, declaring that 1t would
be clear on the mountains, and so it turned
out to be.
Our conveyance was anything but impos-
ing, an ancient thing of drojki-like appear
ance with seats for four, uncomfortably
and movable top. Four horses harnessed
abreast dripped noisily as we ran out from
the hotel shelter and took our seats, and
ferce-looking driver in tfght-ftting coat
Of thick wool stuff sat silently in the rain
awaiting us. The conductor mounted be-
side him. Poor Leon, the courier, had to
come under cover, much to his dismay, and
we set off. For an hour we dashed madly
along at full speed the two outer horses
galloping, the driver cracking his long
whip and shouting to his steeds and the
diligence rocking from side to side, while
the rain poured steadily down. We tore
through deep streams, which bade fair to
carry US off, up steep hills and over dam
gerous-looking marshes, and still it rained,
but not quite so heavily we thought. At
the end of two hours we saw the first sta
ton, Mtskhet, in the distance, where we
hoped to change horses and dash off again
in less than half an hour. The river Kouva
here dwindled to a mountain stream rushes
vigorously down between steep cliffs On one
side of the road and is spanned by very
high and solid-looking stone bridge, and the
hills rise up in pillows on the other, SO
that the little station of Mtskhet is very
picturesquely situated. AS a general thing
the stations are to be found on the out
skirts of a village, but in this case it is
nearly a mile away and quite out of sight
OF the town Of the same name, which is
well worth seeing, as it has a very old
church inside Its walls, and the ruins of a
Caucasian fort can be seen on the hill back
Of 1t. AS we galloped into Mtskhet, we dis
covered that the rain had ceased, much to
our joy, and we discovered soon after that
no horses could be had for four or five
hours at least, much to our sorrow! for,
as we had started so late In the day, we
had no time to waste IL we were to reach
the third station that night, and as we
were told that it was the first place at all
prepared to take any one for the night, we
were naturally anxious to reach 1t; but our
conductor was a genial person and very
tactful, well as bold, so we still had
hopes. We saw and heard him evidently
using both tact and force upon the head
men" of the station, but 1t seemed I'M
availing, for there were several other dill
gences around the yard which had come in
before ours, SO we got into our horseless
vehicle, the only clean place we could find,
and ordered something to eat. Tea and
cold soft-boiled eggs, with cheesy butter,
appeared, and we congratulated ourselves
that we had made a hearty lunch, as this
was evidently all We were to have before
morning. A few moments later we saw the
luggage Of the diligence next ours taken
away on the shoulders Of two porters, and
1t was followed by the occupants, four
Frenchmen, who went off with gloomy
49,
soon after we were approached by the con-
ductor, who said to O. In an undertone:
Won by Trick.
Those Frenchmen had horses promised
them, but they have decided that rather
than wait five hours-they will spend the
night at the town Of Mtskhet, a mile from
here-they are there by this time so we can
have their horses"
Our faces fell at the thought of waiting
that length of time in this dirty little place
but the conductor at once added, cycling
us keenly, but with a pleased smHe
They come, the horses, at once. They
are herep'
Then only did we see his ruse, and in
sisted with decision that he should send
word to the Frenchmen that the horses
were here.
Pas possible, mesdames, they are arrived
already at the town. They wish to exam
Inc its ruins and to behold it's ancient
church,!
All we could say was unavaiing, and in
ten minutes we were off again at the same
mad pace, but not before we had paid to
the crafty head man the sum of two rou-
bles SD.
As we did not get away till nearly Z
we had little hope of reaching the third
station that night, for there was every
possibility of delay with horses at the sec
ond station. but we did not care We were
hungry and tired and damp, but we were
driving over the Caucasus, winding In and
out and through the foothills and the night
was quite clear and the sun was setting
In glory of crimson AS the night fell
an intense quiet fell on everything, and
the silence was heavy, to speak sentiment
tally, for there was not a sound except
the thud of the horses hoofs and an occa-
sional clink as the iron shoes struck a
stone. We found 1t so all through the
Caucasus, for there seem even no Insects
or birds to break the curious silence.
The Few driver was far from young and
seemed to be gentle person He was
very evidently fond of his animals for he
never touched them with whip and rarely
cracked 1t in the usual alarming manner
but whistled softly to them, which had a
magic effect, and talked in low tones to
them, evidently addressing them by name
and persuading them probably to the effect
that the faster they went the sooner they
would get there! Darker and darker it
grew until finally everything became indis-
tinct, and I suggested that the two small
candles of the side lamps should be
lighted. The lights did not appear how
ever, ard when Leon asked the conductor
the reason he laughed and answered. HE
Is an old thief, this driver, he says how
can he light the candles If he has not the
money to buy candles to light" We were
willing to take notice of a hint of such
unusual broadness. but the conductor
would not let us and declared that he could
see better in the dark and that he would
not allow us to be cheated In that way
that it would be passed along the road.
and We would be taxed for everything So
we rushed along lampless through the 81
lent dark At times there would be
loud shout from our driver and an an
swering shout from the distance, then the
greatest lot Of screaming from one man
to the other In fierce tones, until we
thought the bandits must indeed have ap-
peared, but the noise of numbering wheels
approaching explained that 1t was only
country wagon loaded probably with straw
and dark shape and usually several to-
gether for safety would crawl slowly by,
uncomfortably near When we asked the