Evening star., 1902-09-13

Special Correspondence Of The Evening Star.
PARIS. September 80, 1902
Long before anything else is definitely de-
cided upon the Frenchwoman knows ex-
actly what kind of lingerie she will select
for the next season. In the quaint little
shops which make a specially of such
things the fall and winter styles in petit
coats, combination suits, corset covers.
night robes and neglige garments of all
kinds are now shown. Designers of lin
gerie regard their latest efforts as triumphs
OF refinement and 'coquetterie." Nowhere
in the world will you find such lovely IN
derclothing as in the Partisan shops. for
the Frenchwoman is exquisi.ely dainty in
the clothing of her body. Indeed, the very
simplest frOck often covers a small fortune
in lace trimmed or embroidered pettlcoats.
The fall fashions require that petticoats
shall be much founced. In this there is
nothing except in the manner that the
founces are adjusted. They are scrupu-
lously confined to the extremity of the gar
ment, where a single fullness forms the
finish for the skirt. Above the fiounce the
imaginat ton of the designer runs riot in
intsrlaced tucks and insertions, in fanl-iess
incrustatiOuS and interviewer embroidcri1s.
Beadings are popular on the new petit
coats since they permit the addition OF
touches of color suitable 10 the gowns with
which they are to be worn. The ribbons
are generally allowed TO hang in double
bows down each side of the skirt front,
Beadings are best suited TO whiLe or neu-
tral colored undergarmeuts, although they
are not by any means reserved for then
Indeed, one Of the most striking models
which 1 have lately seen is jIpon of bril-
liant red taffeta trimmed with black chan-
lilly and fairly Oyerrun with bows of mar
row black velvet ribbon that spring from
rows of lace beading.
Double founces are used with sinGularly
striking effect on some of the new petit
n c1gDG One WnitH naln-
sock was fashioned with well-htted body,
below which a band of lace beading neaG-
ed ffouuce Of plating and insertion cuc
shorter at the sides to show an undertfOunce
composed entirely Of lace. The edge of the
plated fiOunce itself was completed with a
narrow lace frilI. The ribbon that titled
tie beading was knotted So that its ribbon
streamers fell over the indentatou ir .be
upper flOunCe.
Odds and ends of lace from the scrap
fasket may be used in making one of these
smart skirts which are composed of al
ternate rows of lace and plain material.
Different patterns may De adopted, provided
they are not of different makes Of lace.
For instance. it does not look we'll To COM
bine hOuitOu with Nalencienues or Irish
with bTuges lace. The sections of muslin
or silk which divide the lace are tucked
in diagonal, horizontal or curved lines.
Squares, Irlngl5s and rhOmbUidS are
formed-of tuck!ng, each geometrical 1gure
being alLernated with a similar one cut
from lace and carefully inserted into the
foundation fabric.
Odd Bits of Lace.
Corset covers. chenises and nightrobes
may also be adorned with odd bits Of lace
All over Iaces cut into squares, circles. tri-
angles. semicircIes and inserted into the
cloth in regular patterns impart an exceed
ingIy rich effect. on a chemise trimmed
with double rows Of inserted squares rib
bOns are threaded in and out underneath
the lace and then tied in large bows. max
ing the front quite bOUffant. Narrow tuckS
laid in vertical lines shape the garment to
the figure at the waist. a novel touch which
one would think far from comfortable for
the Ccrseted wedrer. However, tucks must
be found in some form or other on all fash
iOnable lingerie
The combnati ton suit, consisting of a cam
isole and ,pettiCOaT in one. is adapted to
the exploitation OF all over tucks and plaitS.
The newest model Of this garment has mar
row folds running from points on the waist
TO the accoTdiau plated skirt. A deep
ffOunCe supplies additional fullness The
ample surface Of the fiounce is covered with
lace medalliOns motifs and inserted bands.
Batiste. linen percaIe- cambria, null.
HainSOOk and silk are used in the making of
fine underwear. Nowadays silk underwear
Is not necessarily more expensive than the
washable kinds. although ii is still consid-
cred more elegant. MusIins require much
trimming, while silk garments can always
be adorned with Tlaitings. ruchings or frills
of the same fabric.
CamisOles or corset covers of muslin are
far Gaintier than silk ones The new ones
are formed to show a little extra fuIlness in
front and are prefera bly, uutriUmed below
the waist line. Insertions and ruchings are
about the only decorations suitable for
them.
With Tucks and Frills.
The time has gone by when a hem about
the lower part wa5 all the trimming which