The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1902-08-03
White, Perhaps, More Generally
Worn Than Ever Before.
OF EVERY GRADE AND DECREE
Cream, ivory and Pure Tones All Of
fered. and Blonde. Brunette and
Brownie All Provided for.
Some of the Styles.
BY May Manton.


ent generation has such marvellous beauty
and variety been offered in any one tone
or color II desirable, one might wear
white nj all hours or the day the season
through, and yet find no sameness Oh
7nonotony in her gowns. From the film
:est chiffons and laces 10 substantial can
vae cloth and serviceable brjlliantine every
graduation of quality, every degree OF
thickness is seen, and is in style. Cream,
ivory, pure tones are all offered, and all
correct and blonde brunette and brownie
are all provided for. no woman ever yet
existed to whom one tone or the other
was not becoming, and with the entire
range of shades set before us and the'
opportunity for further variety offered
by differences IN texture, there is abso-
)utely no reason why satisfactory effects
should not be obtained At the moment
when midsummer is at It's height, the thin
taphonous delicate fabrics are the ones
that appeal most keenly to the aesthetic
taste and many exquisite gowns that are
genuinely fairylike are seen, but the
sturder materials have their place. and
fill need in the full supply. Ono of
The handsomest yachting costumes have
seen Is of cream canvas cloth, and there
ere driving cloaks and wraps of the satin
faced sort that are dreams Of beauty. A.
teen out of twenty gowns in any gather
ing of elegantes Will be found TO be white.
two pearl gray and one black and a
similar rule would be found to apply here.
except that black with white would make
g. larger proportion. Many OF the most
elegant costumes one sees are so com.
bined, and the thin transparent and semi
transparent fabrics of the season make
n most Fascinating effect when in black
and hung over white.
For the younger contingent full, fluffy eff
fects are much sought and are charming.
A dinner costume worn by a young ma
tIon, whose marriage bells rang out only
a few weeks ago. is typical, and serves
10 exemplify the free use made of chiffon
over mousseline The gown Is Of the
chiffon in a soft ivory shade, and is
enriched by motifs Of genuine valen
CHIMES lace. The skirt, long at the front,
includes a long train at the back, and
is hung over several understands of nous
seine with foundation, one Of louisine
silk which is sun plated at thee back
and is edged with plating of mousseline.
The corsage is low, with elbow sleeves
and blouses slightly at the front Drap-
ing the neck is ichu, lace inset and
lace trimmed. and falls ct lace complete
sleeves. Nothing more tarylike could
could be asked, and While such and
similar gowns must mean great cost,
there are lessons End suggestions to be
gathered that will help out many a sim
pie one. The plated train is a feature
10 be borne in mind. 1t gives body and
stability to the outer material without
detracting from the ethereal beauty, and
!. produces a most fascinating and subtle
effect. Sun plating, by the way is much
n a a.-c Sto in,
thin materials worn by young girls.
Silk null and mousseline are neither of
them costly, Yet make most desira BILE
gowns treated in this way. A really
lovely example has entire doux of lace
above 1te hem. and is hung over soft
silk, yelled with plain mousseline. Now
and again one sees marvellous effects in
color, as in a rainbow gown that con-
ssts of white chiffon hung over skirts
nf mousseline Of pale pink, one of yellow
ard one of blue, but nothing, no matter
how tempting, really causes the astute
observer to swerve from her allegj-
ence TO white. Fascinating and Tempt
ing as the the opalescent coloring
is. the the pure untouched white has a
charm that nothing quite oItdoes. Paint
ing on mousseline is in vogue, and has
certain unouestionable beauty when
we'll done, but is dangerous. inasmuch as
mediocre work means dire failure, where
as white never can go an7iss. A really
lovely painted rnousseline. however. was
seen at a recent large dance, and was
assuredly beautiful, with the border of
pale crush roses on each flounce and the
full bertha of the corsage; but where
one such is the result of the fashion
there are apt to be a dozen crude in
color and faulty in design.
Simpler gowns are of ncusseline, laid
in tucks and trimmed With guiiure, of
silk wolfe and Of dainty fine muslin.
mrst charming costume for the Casino,
the afternoon drive. visiting or the infor
NAL dinner. Is or cream white silk null.
with applications of Guipure and groups of
hand-run tucks The skirt is a simple
straight one but arranged to give only
slightest possible fullnesS at front and
sides. At the lower edge is hem. headed
by eleven fine tucks: above these tucks
IS lace; above that again more tucks, and
go on until there are three groups of
tucl>s and two rows Of s,iipure. The bod
ice is hclerc, tucked horizontally and
edged with lace. while lace forms the
collar and reSers. Beneath the bolero the
t.odice is unlined and tucked in peipen-
Sicplar groups, while at the throat is
stock of lace and at the waist a deep
belt Of the mousseline, laid in folds. The
sleeves are tucked and close fitting for
hnlf the distance between The shoulders
md the elbows, where they are lace
edged but plain, and consisting Of volu
Inincus puffs below. A really lovely white
silk .,ole is made with a skirt consisting
of three piisse founces. each hemmed and
finished with fancy stitches, while the
bodice is all finely plated and made IN
.u..,rlice style. with boiero and big square
collar of white linen, edged with applied
flowers OF white taffeta, outlined with
tiny silver cord. One sees these triple
-, nj 10 IF
casmany OF the imported gowns, and there
are those who hold that we shall see
them in greater numbers with The au-
tu,nn, but ] am inclined 10 doubt their
taxing any great hold. The tall. slender
VEG, an wears them with grace, but what
does she not make becoming? Already
there are grunblings over the way in
wisch her less fortunate rival is and has
Seen overlooked, and 1t seems hardly
probable that a style suited to no one
else will attain any extended vogue.
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