davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1902-02-16

and a circular founce or two narrow-shaped
~founces. or perhaps with plaits stitched
down from the waist TO the knee, like the
one in the last illustration.
The bodice Of this sort of gown is on the
shirt waist order. very simple, with tucks.
a dainty finish Of narrow bands Joined by
the open stitch, or a narrow vest and collar
Of embroidery. 1t is strictly a morning
dress, both stylish and useful.
Other simple gowns which even in the
midst Of all the luxurious dressing have a
charm and style all their own are the house
gowns Of yelling, albatross and crepe de
chine, In any nice color a well-cut skirt
with three or five one-inch tucks around
the hem Is pretty, with a blouse bodice,
yoke and deep cuffs of lace, and possibly a
little lacing Of velvet ribbon as a finish.
Lace in deep points makes a pretty yoke,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1902-02-16
yRINCH WOWIN mirrors.
Ihirty.thrcc Of Them Nho Have Hrcn
uonored for Gallant Deeds.

France this year included no women
In the list Of those TO whom she gave nil
itary medals of honor. The last woman
20 receive the medal was Mime. Matrinal
cantiniere Of the Twcnty-niuth Dragons,
decorated last July, but in France, there
ara thirteen women wearing On their
breasts the military medal given only IN
recognition Of uncommon bravery.
Thirty-thrce women in all. have received
tho decoration, but the other fifteen have
followed tLcir old friends and comrades
who died on the battl,iicids where the
womcn prove their courage. Only the
thirteen remain TO wear the medals II
tell the stories OF the deeds that won them.
Most of the women are old, ~gray-haired.
comfortable, given over to domestic peace
or the most unmartial business oCCupa-
tions. but they nave seen stirring sights in
their day. There wac Marie \ialar, the
first ca!tiniere Of France, for instance.
She was living until a few years K and
her namo is still houor,d in the l3lst Rogi-
ment uf the line, She was only ?! when
She went with the army 20 the I'm
She was good 20 look at, and she carried
tho heart 81 a soldier under the blou-o
Of the ca~ntiniere.
In the war 81 1870 she distinguished
herself even more signally. Her regiment
demanded the medal of honor for her, but
She waited sixteen years before the decor
alton was given TO her.
Sour Gre goire was another. heroine
Of the Crimca. She had made We llalnh
campaign and won fame there, but IN the
Crifnea she achieved wonders. Her left
arm was amputated on the field Of battle,
hut that did not keep her from going with
her regiment to China where che died.
Maman Chocalot a. the soldiers called
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1902-02-16

coats-of-arms OF Austria-Hungary were
woven.
This lace was presented TO the Princess
S%tephanie by the tow OF Brussels when
she married Prince Rudolf Of Austria
She has given IL to her daughter and il
was used in the latter's bridal toilet.
As for the jewels counted in the rousseau,
they represent a fortune.
The diamond diadem worn by the bride
in place Of the conventional wreath was
composed of huge diamonds set in wreaths
Of smaller stones.
There was a set OF twenty-five diamond
stars, favorite ornaments of the late
Empress Elizabeth. To her, too, had be-
longed the magnificent necklace of pink
pearls, the diamond necklace with its won
derful pendants Of huge pearl-shaped
cmeralds. the pearl collar, the diamond
chains, rondeaus, brooches, combs, the
rings and earrings and hair ornaments
and brooches Of costly Jewels OF all kinds.
All Of these jewels are, like tho rest Of
the trousSeau. the gift Of the old Emperor.
Incident lily the Emperor added to his
gifts a royal palace or two, and a princely
income.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1902-02-16

These gowns have a Louis Quinse or
bolero jacket. tho latter with a coat tail
at the back and square cut in front over
a vest Of Pompadour silk and lace.
II. Is umored that this sort OF jacket
In embroidered tafreta is to be worn with
the black cloth skirts. Long and three
quarter coats may continue in favor for
some time. and for some purposes. but
II IL safe 10 say that the short jacket has
come TO stay. II is more generally boz
coming han the long coat and especially
more suitable for spring and summer wear,
The new tailor models show a very close
fitting skirt around tho hips; In fact, the
habit back is here again. All the Efforts
to introduce full skirts seem 10 be unavail-
ing; at least, they have been so far, with n
few grand exceptions in the thinnest fabrics.
Certainly the modish skirt is practically
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1902-02-16

the darkest shade in the pattern. The
large collar. cuffs and trimming on the
ovcrdress are OF vandyke Irish lace.
Gray gowns especially in tafeta and
Louisine silks are predicted as one OF the
summers specialties, and here Is one OF
| taffeta trimmed with Renaissance guipure
traced daintily with silver thread and
studded with small silver spangles. The
bolero Of silk IL tucked in groups. piped
around tho edges with white MORE silk
Of which the revers are made.
Applications Of black velvet. in disks
large polka dots and conventional flower
designs, are used on the gray silk for the
skirt trimming at tho hem, and for bodice
decoration. Another feature of trimming
Is the tasseled silk ornament. which we
may expect to see on the spring gowns
and especially on the silk costumes.
A beige colorcd silk gown illustrated
Ia patterned with small punches OF v%iolets,
and decorated with bands OF white silk;
also a shaped design In white silk striped,
with black velvet. Gathered black velvet
ribbon forms the rosettes on the bodice
each having a rhinestone buckle in the
entire.
Another pretty model for yelling Ia car
ried out in pink trimmed with lace and
silk tabs OF the same color, with pearl
buttons at the ends. For the woman who
wants 20 make organdie gowns in Feb
ruary, here are two pretty models trimmed
with ace and tucks, one showing a shirred
hip yoke. and shiTred sleeves. The backs
Of the bodices are exactly like the front.
except that they are tucked all the way
down 10 the belt.
A pretty bodice for a spring gown Of
brown cloth shows collar and cuffs Of cream
colored moir6 embroidered around the
edge with brown chenille and also the
fashionable in brown silk cord.
A cloth gown trimmed with a wide fancy
black silk braid is the next model. The
coat has a shaped basque, the collar is
entirely Of the braid and the vest and panel
down the front Of the skirt are Of panne.
Guipure lace embroidered with colored
silks is the feature Of the next costume
In beige colored homespun. The full vest
and undersleeves are Of white silk muslin.
In pastel blue cloth ia another costume
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1902-02-16

and tho points may be laced across with
the velvet
very little Of tho medallion lace Is eTec-
tive on the simple dress Of yelling. which
may have a plated skirt with one band
Of this lace at the head Of the hem and
two bands oncircling the bodice, one just
above the belt and the other forming a
yoke. One beauty in using these medallion
laces is in separating them n putting one
or two in a place wherever they are needed.
Two narrow insertions trim the plated
skirts very pretily. and the bodice, also
plated or tucked, may have a round shoul-
der collar giving a sort Of revers ef ect,
opening over a lace chemisette.
Rumor says that the newest dress bodices
are to be less elaborat" than they have
been and show some form Of basque. either
in tabs all around or position ends at
the back. The tailor7 tell you. too. that
the blouse coat with basque ends in the cen
tire of the back ia 10 be the popular suit
coat for the coming season.
A belt which passes through Sits in the
material and fastens with a handsome
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1902-02-16

with q group Of tucks. The bodice Is gath
cred into two bands OF narrow lace inser-
ton and the narrow yoke Is OF lace,
The wide collars OF lace seem to be one
Of the indispensable features Of dress Tor
every kind OF gown except the tailor COS
TUNES. All kinds OF shapes, and varieties
in lace can be purchased in the shops or
what is less expensive Is to make your
collar out Of wide edging. This Ia easily
managed in the heavy laces which can
be cut so as TO cnovo portions Of the pat
torn to give il shape.
Apropos OF lace is the new flet in round.
square and oval medallions embroidered
in the centre with white wool. This Is
one Of the seasons trimmings for the white
wool gowns 30 serviceable at the seashore'
II is heavy in effect but anything in the
way OF embroidery Of any kind, either
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1902-02-16
RtRF SHOTTDERS IN LONDON.


some social w.Nracrcs Of London am
propha-viug that bare shoulders at day
light functions viii tao, lee the mode during
the reign OF Alexandra.
Even ig the earlier years Of her reign
Queen Nc'uriu was short md fat, In
those DAYS ~" cared mora about her per
soraI appearance, 'luu -le did later, N
slr knew t.,, a o"Doll'rc hodir" was in
nni..ly myIa becoming ro h"r than II high
collar.
50 dd.ollo,aco was the rule Mt court
functions during Notorio's reign, and
many a woman ~Hi,cr"i di~maiIy through
pravirg Rooms Uj took homo a cold asa
souvenir ,f the function.
Queen Alexandra, tall, slender, and
blessed w,.h a throat long enough for q
clahrr collar. l5 hot ayrrse To decolletsge,
hn, shc isyuI- ,ur high bodice. Al ths
oIa,..lE a. Parliament she woie - higa
L,lio,. nla.'re with Jewels under her
,.a,,l. of velvet aud crmiue, 0ud the rumor
I,- Icon f...r.ug around that permission
T., wear the high court bodice VIII b. gwen.
Ngrv an elderly woman, ClluguIg 70
,,.,I r,-..r-I..fy Ia spite Of rhcuma-
49,. womb welcome tie change, but II 10
doubtful whether even tho thlnnost OF
81. y,u,.,r women would avail them
-eIye, Of the permission English women
have. perhaps from the habit gained
through court requirement, btpone -
vrdg'd 60 tie low bodice that Englah
d.rnIara-r i- a proycrb, and that In spite
~, tHr fact tn1t few English women have
beautiful rocys and shoulder
VA, Bret Harte who eyed dislnaly =
collection of English women AMI when
a-kri his opinion ot them slgl"d ahi satA
~ ven. anr,h like Inferior photographs
,,,r oNr,-rd and uvdor dr,"lo'"t
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1902-02-16

edented. showing every possible tint,
and every graduation Of thinness and thick
ness from the daintiest gauzs to hairy
xibeline.
Among the sillu MORE effects are con-
spicuous. MORE Louisines and motre
velours being pretty examples. Other
white fabrics are the crepe armures, and
the srmure brilliante which has a kind Of
crinkled effect. yet is not all like crepon.
In all wool, and silk and wool, there Is a
pretty variety OF thin fabric in different
weaves. some OF which resemble corduroy
In appearance II not In thickness while
others have a crepe finish. The veilings
and crepes de chine are most attractive
perhaps. yet they are all 30 tempting that
whichever n you choose you wish you
had another one.
veilings very fine and silky are 10 be very
much worn not only In white but In plain
colors a. well. and there seems to be a new
fancy for making them over lowered and
striped silk Innings. tn result Is inde-
scrtbably pretty II the combination OF oolors
Ii right and It furthers the seasons scheme
In lowered effects.
One OF the fanoies In decoration brought
out In various ways h the use Of velvet
discs and polka dots applied In different
zines and designs on different materials.
yelling being one fabric treated In this way.
You see them as large as the top of a spool
on n blue veilng gown asa border trim
ming. sewn on with a b~uttonhole stitch
round the edge. A little pattern In em-
broidery enolrcles each one.
Fasotting Is most effectively used on
the yelling gowns, Joining all the seams
and hens, and showing a dainty line OF
the silk underneath. One model In veil
ing II made with a double skirt. the upper
one quite long and fitted closely 10 the
hips with this vertical tucks so much used.
II u evident here. as everywhere else,
that hand work in embroidery and APP
pliqus In decidedly the vogue
In colors there are some pretty blue
veDings in Wedgwood tints. but In this
a. In all other materials this season, this
beige tint Is one OF the leaders. II Is
stylishly made up over white silk with
lsos in the same ecru tint.
You zee the gathered skirts In this ma
teial made after the model Described
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1902-02-16

variety in designs and shadings Is indie
scribablo, hut every tint and possible varia-
ton Of pattern seems 10 be r~eprcscntrdhe here.
One OF the pretty summer gowns already
in sight IL In white silk greuad No over
pink taheta. trimmed with Aleugon lace.
The sleeves in some Of the thin gowns are
simply a double frill falling from the shout
ders a little below the elbows. the under
frill a little longer than the upper one.
A thin white silk patterned owe with
bouquets Of pink roses and bow knots Of
ribbon is ono Of the seasons materials
for tho quaint fchu costume, and you pro-
duce a good contrast 10y using r~osettes
Of black chiffon on the bodice and skirt AZ
intervals all around at the head Of the
founce.
Al odd feature Of some OF the new or
candle gowns is the combination with white
lace net. For example, one Powered or
gandis has three narrow rufles Of white
net, edged with one row Of black velvet
ribbon. around tho hem; whils in another
frock the entire skirt is made Of alternate
bands Of net and Powered organdie stitched
together.
Another scheme Of combination Ia shown
in the foulard gown ia the illustration.
HI finely plated nounce is Of plain silk,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1902-02-16
Al Least the Fabrics Of The Season
May Now Be Seen,
WHITE WILL Be MUCH WORN.
Some Uncertainty Still as 10 How 10
Make The FrOCES.

Unprecedented variety In tho White Ma
teriais-New Fancles In Decorations
Beige Tnu Among the LEADER In
Favor-Fashion OF the SKIRTS At
traotive Effects Made by Contrasts
Of Materials Useful shirt waist
suit-Black Tsneta Gowns Again
THO Little Jackets OF silk Gray
downs 10 lie One OF the specialties.
The penitential season is with us once
again, not that 1t makes very much differ
enoe 80 far as fashions are concerned, for
n presents no stumbling blocks 10 fashion,
able women In the hunt for new things
IN dress. On the contrary. 1t IL a most
convenient time for looking up the new
summer gowns and renovating the old ones.
Already winter fashions have lost their
special charm and the fascinating modes
and materials for summer use fill their
places, each week bringing something new
In the way Of fabrics. But there is some
uncertainty az TO the modes OF making them
up, and will be until after the imported
models are brought to light.
Despite the fact that there are 30 many
dowercd materials In sight 1t In evident
that plain white Is to be very much worn.
The variety In white materials u unpreo-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1902-02-16

ard vet have tie full messur Of style.
Tiny tucks around the hips will do for the
upper skirt, TO which may be joined a
shaped founcc with short vertical tucks at
the top.
Three narrow bands Of the yelling set
together with an open stitch Join the two
parts very protuly. The bodice may lie n
blouse opening down the front and cut out
round at the heck 20 show a ~chenhsette
and collar band Of lace or chiffon. The
edges Of the bodice may have tho band
finish or a bit OF embroidery.
II the color is pretty and the lining Is
striped, lowered or plain silk OF a lighter
shade, the gown will he a success. The old
blues in yelling, challies and muslins arc
very much in evidence.
The useful costume which is 20 he a part
| OF every w~el-supplied wardrobe this sum-
mer is the shirt waist suit, made OF ponsee'
India silk, linen and madras The skirt is
lust short enough To clear the ground and
made in some simple MANNER Win tuek'
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1902-02-16

the same in effect sround the hips, as II
was fully four years ago. II is more volumi-
nou around the feet, more graceful In
outline but the closely fitted hips are not
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1902-02-16

heavy or light. applied TO any material
Is in fashions favor just at present.
In all departments Of dress the most
attractive effects are brought out by con-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1902-02-16

buckle is sometimes tho finish. This
sort Of coat has a BLOUSE sleeve rather
full Just above the waist but quito plain
at the top
The front may b. slightly double-breasted,
IL you like. finished with small turn-down
collar and rovers Of some fine embroidery.
The basque, whatever shape it is. should
be cut to look as If II were all in one, and
vet may be made quite separate IN a little
band which the belt covers. and worn or
not. as you please.
The black tafFeta tailor gown IL prom
ised again as one Of tho features of spring
costumes, and yet the softer makes OF
silk, such as faille, poult de sole, gros-grain
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1902-02-16

trasts artistically chosen and applied
and this season they are not so much a
matter Of color as OF texture, 80 we sec
thu heavy and very thin materials combined
very closely. For example Hungarian
embroideries, which are woolly In effect
anl d bizarre combination Of colors, are
used for trimming the thinncst vcilings.
These materials are very sheer this season
and varied 10y open work stripes aud fine
cord stripes which widen into little punches
at intervals.
One reassuring thing about the yelling
gowns is that they can be made very simply
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1902-02-16

TO be given over TO the dress designers,
who would have us swathed In superfuous
gathers and plaits, which have no Use as
a means Of adding grace and beauty Of
outline
To return to materials, the new silk
grenadines must not he forgotten. They
arc as sheer as gauzo and most dainty In
c~oloring with u very glossy finish. The
The Washington times., 1902-09-17
SHORTER SCHOOL HOURS.

writer of the popular recently advocated short
of school hours for children generally but especially for those
who public schools He ontended
that the afternoon hours productive Of comparatively little benefit
the pupils and contribute little the acquire
In the younger children he declared positively
furious the school than
four hours day.
The plea thus advanced has much commend favorable cond
Grafton In back the tendency has
shortening the of the school The
older well remember that when they boys school
began at o'clock the and didn't "et OUT until the
with the nterso, perhaps of hour for dinner Nor
week
added for this or that study.
The general of instruction the public schools of the country
particularly the cities has considerably enlarged within
years. whether wisely need be considered this
and this time The result of this has been undoubtedly
add the strain upon the pupils mnd referring
and pupand place additional
his physical endurance 1t exceedingly doubtful therefore,
has been asduou work for four hours with the diff
assigned by the curriculum would be better
for recreation for the rest of the day.
the children under twelve three
all that ought to be required of them Jumping about the
playing if other place available for the
Will do them vastly good than they could possibly
ing shut up in the school ROOM
The Washington times., 1902-09-17

There is much difference between the cam
paen of twenty-five years ago az there is between
morning and evening. This is an of progression,
and as we note changes in the method of conducting
business, so, too, note changes in conducting a
political campaign.
Time was when the candidates for office arranged
for series of joint debates at which discussed
questions of fundamental principles of government
and the people came for miles around to listen and
applaud the telling points made by their respective
favorites for the Office the candidates were seeking
And at these discussions votes were made and lost
according to the ability of the candidate to strike
the responsive chord But it is different The
people do not care for these joint debates except
where primary election Is to be held to determine
which of the candidates shall be nominated to make
the against their political opponent.
The joint debates preceding primary election
are always interesting, because they confined
within the ranks of q political party. Not after
a nomination has been determined by primary e,ec
ton The voters do not care about hearing discussed
the issues of the hour by opposing candidates from
the same platform
The Washington times., 1902-09-17
TRADE
SCHOOLS
BY Ii,
"The children whose parents are IL
iterate need public school training
which shall be scientifically thorough,
not mixed up with all sorts of useless
embellishments which confuse and
bother them"

There innovation in New York in the shape of
school, designed especially for girls and the Ethical Society
of that city has also opened school, with model shop
signed to fit the pupils for the business of saeswomen
This will reflections the minds of the thought
full There is scarcely city in this land where something
sort not needed and yet there nothing which be
taught the proposed trade schools which ought thoroughly
taught in the public schools The pupils will be spell
ing In the keeping OF accounts pennanhp and like branches
of learning All these things should taught in the grammar
schools of city, and the public schools village Money
enough spent on popular education to do this thing Why
is about time that there should be very serious
ing and discussion this subject There be no question that the
public school funds applied the city grammar schools are su
fcien give every child the city an elementary educa
ton, and do right By this child on leaving
the school, should be able ead WRITE and do any sum in
ordinary grammaroo arithmetic, should through
simple geography and United States history
good grammar and know something OF the of speech More
than this the average child of fourteen does know
obliged to leave school at that is foundation enough for
further education he has the will and opportunity study by
himself And the fact is that the great majority city schools
the children do this training thew can write we'll
expressed and properly spelled letter at the age of twelve
either because they unusually bright because they had
home training to supplement that of the school.
The children with home training the ones to consid-
cred the expenditure of public school funds will an
education They of the class which supports private
But the children whose parents erate public school
training which shall be scientifically thorough up all
of useless embellishments which confuse and bother them
They need to be drilled until they speak correctly and can
do right without reference to the in the back the
book If they trained in this way the worse for
the betterbred children who school with thn these will
inevitably catch the spshod phrase generally
sloveny style of work This thorough training given the
Americana and If not the suffer-
the money of the present generation will be badly