Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1902-05-29
NEW YORK FASHION LETTER
Modes That Will Appeal to the Fair Sex
Chic Waists, summer Parasols.

NCW IOnN ThOVlON lC I'm
Modes That will Appeal to the Fair Sex
Chic Waists, Summer Parasols.
New York, May 2O.-Fashonable inter
est Is directed at the present moment
toward wash gowns. And this properly
speaking is a misnomer, for the washable
qualities are limited to the fabric. The
simplest lawns are made this year with so
many trimmings of lace and ribbon that
they suggest more of the perishablc than
the durable. There are simply designed
dresses of course, but in such cases the
extravaganza is just shifted from trimming
to higher priced fabric, so that very lit
tie, If anything at all. Is gained In the end.
SILK Ginghams. which figure prominently
among the "washab able materials, are as
soft and pliable as silk. with all the deli
cate coloring of other fashionable fabrics.
In many instances gowns of this goods are
built upon the most exquisite of silken lin
ings and trimmed so elegantly until they
take on the distinction of more costly crea-
tons
One model especially emphasizes this
fact.It is developed in pale robins egg blue
bingham. through which the faintest
dashes of white are spattcred. The skirt
is laid In tucks in groups of four each and
these arc stitched in the new French fash
ion, which makes them stand out straight
from the surface of the GOO DIS.
skirt producing a rather attenuated effect.
The f1ounCe Is round and sweeping, eT-
tending into dem-train at the back.
1T Is finished with an out-hem of pale blue
taffeta stitched with many rows of white.
At the top Of the founce there is broad
band of ecru lace insertion and over this,
a few inches apart two bands of black vel
vet ribbon are drawn and held in place
top and bottom with medaliOns of lace
| The bodice is tucked all over and trim
med with yoke of lace upon which the
velvet ribbon design is followed out The
stock and cuff of lace, also are trimmed
with black velvet ribbon.
In contrast to this gown Is a plain shirt
waist suit of heavy natural color linen.
The material is very heavy and highly
! finished. The skirt is stitched with tailor
bands of the same material and sweet :
the floor all around. This feature of the
modes necessarily adds to their eX
/ traVagancc. because in cases where ii is
| announcement to lift the skirt it conse-
quently whips out in a short time and a
new gown becomes imperative. The seams
are stitched several times until the skirt
stands alone in its smartness.
| The waist matches the skirt. and may
be made after the Gibson OF Dubarry pat
terms. Both are pretty and greatly woin.
There is ore advantage to the latter. how
ever in that 1t does not increase the APP
parent expanse of shoulders of the stout
sisterhood, while this cannot be argued in
favor OF the Gibson effects.
Shirt waists suits of duck, crash or linen
have hats to match. These are stitched
from edge to rim to centre of crown and
are to be found in all shapes, from the
English walking hat TO the short back
sailor. An elaboration of the former,
which may also suggest the alpine of few
seasons ago, has rather a broad crown,
creased in the middle and trimmed with a
| nf no al nj &c
troidcred to match the little turn over COL
lar worn with the stock. This is quite a
new idea and one that affords opportunity
for the exhibition of ones artistic skill
Speaking of turnover collars. the nov
city of these little affairs is unparalleled.
The sets in denim-consisting of turnover
cuffs and belt-are to be found everywhere
and ranging from any price beginning at
$lO The simpler designs are embroid-
cred by hand in tiny French dots; others
appear in complicated scrolls and even
hand-painted. if the more elegant founda-
ton is substituted for denim.
Here is an odd little thing in the way of
a stock-well what would one call II. 1t
lis like a little chemisettc, but worn out
side the gown. 1t is fitted stock Of lawn
and lace and in front this little square
lchemisette, open in front and hemmed on
the two edges the upper part fastened
with three little pearl buttons. The two
outside edges are finished with lace, and
in the two lower corners at the front
are set III three-cornered pieces of lace.
1t Is pretty and smart.
An afternoon toilette in wash goods
which embodies all the details OF more
expensive fabric Is carried out in silk mus
lin. The skirt is trimmed to simulate a
Devonshire tunic with bands Of black
panne ribbon and between these bands the
null is laid in narrow tuCks Graduated
; down the front and all around the foot OF
: the skirt is deep applique of wild roses
wrought In pale pink chiffon and en-
bloidered upon the goods in white silk
There is a generous sprinkling of green
leaves through the applique of flowers
making most delightful color scheme
rhe waist has an under bodice of red
lvalenciennes lace arranged to fall in
blouse effect over a cruch belt of she'll
pink panne stitched with white Outlined
to open over this vest of lace is bolero OF
the ribbon used to garnisil the skirt. Here
too single roses are appliqued and dis
tinction Is lent to the sleeve treatment by
], conllning the ornamentaton simply to al
: embroidery Of green leaves. Falling from
j, the elbow, where tho sleeves end, to the
, wrist is a fril of accordion plated null
over which is another founce of lace
, Tho pattern in the lace is outlined witt
r pink and greer silk threads and by thi.
, method an effect of Oriental embroidery
is gained. The throat is encirced with &
: PLAIN stock composed only of null laid IL
bands, with the merest glimpse OF pink
panne piped around the upper edge.
Embroidered lawns are quite the rage
!, TIE NEST exclusive Of society leaders ar,
, wearing them. They are cspociall- dainty
made into negligee gowns. One de sgnec
for the beautiful Mrs. Payne Whitney
who was formerly Miss Helen Hay. daugh
, ter of the secretary of state, has the en-
broidery in solid stripes about the widtf
, Of the narrow plaits in which the materia
is laid. In the back those plaits turn on
from the centre and set under two Of them
, several inches apart, are ends of a bronC
= sash of ribbon in a soft shade Of gIey
> the ribbon carried from there under tn,
arms and around to the front where II l.
I tied in big bow on the bust
Summer parasols present a study II
: natural history. They are swarthed OF
top in ruff1es of lace and chiffon and alive
, as 1t were. inside with little animals
= birds. butterflies and insects made of lace
= All sorts of carved woods are used 70
! handles and many of these are scented
with the queerest-but exec adingly pleas
, ant-of Oriental incense
= The bordered effects which are displaye,
= everywhere in ribbons and gowns are ais
. seen upon parasols. The most chic ar
{, III Dresden pattern. prettily CONTRASTING
= with the centre of the parasol
: MAUD GRIFFIN.
: IN THE FIELD OF SPORTS.