The Republican. [volume] (Oakland, Md.) 1877-current, 1902-01-09
FEMININE FINERY FOR FALL.
Pretty Gowns and Waists for the
Autumn SeasOn-SOme New
Millinery.


Very stylish and attractive is
gown of black and white silk,
trimmed with pompadour ribbon,
above the hem of the accordion
plated skirt and overdress, this fam
plated garment coming down quite
over the underplaiting, except at
the sides. The bodice has a low-cut
bolero with vest and collar of white
taffeta, relieved with encrustations
of lace and pompadour ribbon.
An odd fancy in special French
gowns is to have the girdle made of
fine cloth, even for the very thinnest
toilet. One of very diaphanous sill
ver-gray India muslin, dotted with
white silk, has a white-cloth -girdle
aud white satin strappings, trimmed
with three gold buttons on each side.
The gown is made over white taffeta,
with matching vest shirred into
pointed yoke shape at the top and
finished with a collar matching the
girdle, says the New York Post.
For comfortable and pretty gowns
qualities that in the eyes of major
ity nowadays lose very little on ac-
count of the additional fact that they
are ineXpensive-nothin is better
for general uses than the delicate
veilings, challis and other light wool
fabrics, trimmed with ribbon in any
of thn ht1n1rn1 anH
proved by fashion. One, for instance,
is the arranging of three or four
rows of ribbon on the graduated
founce of a black or brown yelling
skirt, repeating the trimming on the
bolero jacket, finished with a shirred
white silk vest or one or cherry red.
While comfortable and dressy look
ing, they at the same time keep out
dampness and the autumn chill as
no silk gown can. Elderly women
can suitably use challis or delaine in
dark colors for morning dresses. The
material is not quite suitable for aft
ernoon attire. In lighter shades,
however, French challis or delaine
trimmed with fine silk passemen-
teries or ribbon leaves little to be de-
sired on the score of smartness.
Norfolk waists or their effects are
once more shown among bodice
models for the entire autumn season.
One of the most novel styles has two
graduated Substituted box plaits on
each side of the center of the jacket.
both front and back, but meeting
these plaits. which are always seen
on Norfolk jacket, is a pointed yoke
of medium depth, stitched at the
edges, and reaching to the narrow
inserted silk vest on the front. The
plaits taper from this yoke to the
waist, where the edges are concealed
by a narrow belt with rounded ends.
The vest is simulated by facings OF
taffeta or other silk adjusted to the
closely -ftted lining. The military
collaS is like the vest, and has a
rather wide rundown collar of vel
vet beyond it that may be omitted
if not preferred. The two-seam
sleeves flare at the wrist, the cuffs
being Substituted to match the
waist. and the front is shaped with
the still popular dip.
Fall millinery for general wear
does not show as much of the gossa-
mer and ephemeral character con
spicuous upon utility headwear last
spring before the holiday exodus be-
gan. Fancy straws woven in new
pretty patterns plentifully decorated
+o1 al
geraniums, dahlias, plums, cherries
and even larger fruits, are shown on
autumn models, also currants, black,
red and white, with their natural
foliage. AS for the shapes, they are
by no means of a restricted charac-
ter. There are new styles showing
the protracting fronts of the sum-
mer, others that have retrousse
brim, turning boldly back from the
face, many of these brims being
pierced with feather quilts, while at
the back the brim is bent down to
suit the fashion Of dressing the hair.
For travelling hats, these slender
quilts, plain in style or fancifully
decorated, form an inexpensive and
useful trimming, adding not little
height to the appearance of the short
wearer of hat of the present
plateau variety to whom the mode is
not becoming. When going on a
long journey by land or sea, it is al
ways well to carry with one a few
additional quilts for renewal pur-
poses.