The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-02-09

wherever we see a fashionable
woman, and they are made in
all the glowing fabrics and in
all the odd and striking COM
binatiOns of the eighteenth CEN
tury, Short coats have taken the place
of blouses for afternoon and even
ing wear, and of the Elton
and beloro jacket upon the tailored
promenade frock. These are the days
when apparel proclaims the woman. No
possible economies may be substituted
for the costly brocades and laces and
jeweled buckles and buttons which are
now the rage on the three-quarter and
Lhe short Louis XIV. coats These have
another disadvantage from the stand
point of the woman who would econo-
mize-no cheap dressmaker can give the
required elegance Of cut.
A handsome basqued coat for wear
with tailored skirt was made of blue
Velours It was tight-fitting in the back,
loose IN the front and adjusted at the
right side with two handsome buttons A
glrdIe OF black satin passed around the
waist and under the straight front of the
coat. From the rear of the girdIe de-
pended triple basque stitched about the
edges. The large collar, coming down the
front like reVers, was faced with guipure
lace and crossed by bands Of astrakhan
The sleeves, of ample fullness were gath
cred in above the wrist by faring cuff
of lace and astrakhan bands A plastron
OF plated silk with a ruching of plated
chiffon about the neck, was worn be-
meath the coat.
The Louis XII. is one of the newest
varieties of the new code. The basqued
portion, which is very much rounded is
longer than the Louis XIV. style. One of
the former worn at a fashionable wed
ding the other day was both simple and
pretty. Pale blue embroidered velvet
formed the body.
Around the edge band of white cloth
was stitched. The open front was filed
In with vest of white, over which soft
lace was cascaded. The sleeves came
to the elbow, where faring revers dis
closed two deep lace founces, the lower
one of which fell to the wrist The
pockets Of the basque, the sides of the
coat and the sleeves were garnished with
JeWeleG buckles. The coat was meant
to be worn with separate skirt and was
exceedingly smart for visiting or for the
theater.
Even though the front of the coat
present the approved bolero outline, the
rear should have something to suggest
a basque, if it be only a slender and
short habit back such as may be affixed
to a tailored beige jacket trimmed with
bands of stitched silk and adorned with a
great deal of lace and ribbons.
For the street, coats have longer skirts
than for indoor wear. A handsome Louis
XIV. was part of smart promenade cos
tune made Tor a lady of the beau monde
1t was of smooth-faced cloth and almost
military in its outlines. The moderately
wide collar and the long revers We're Dor
dered with narrow galloonS, repeated on
the edges of the deep, faring cuffs. The
vest Of white was adorned with bright
buttons and handsome frogs, above which
a lace-covered collar and fichu appeared
in soft outlines. The skirt of the coat
boosted two deep pockets trimmed with
buttors. While reaching almost entirely
round the body, it did not quite meet in
front. typical Louis XIV. hat of felt
trimmed with galloons and choux, was
worn with this coat
Another of these promenade coats was
fitted with a skirt so long that it reached
almost to the hem of the dress. 1t was
cut in princess style, with the upper and
lower portions in one piece.
An exquisite Louis XIV. tea jacket was
made of brocaded silk, trimmed with vel
vet and lace. 1t had a pointed body,
down the front of which the velvet was
set in two narrow bands, with a mere
suggestion of white in the center. Fancy
buttons were set in close rows on the
velvet The skirt was a double affair,
neither section being very long. The up
Per one was outlined on the hips by a
band of velvet. The deep, turned-over
collar % elk, the revers and the turned
back cuffs We're bordered with velvet.
Frills of lace at the sleeves and a fichu
at the neck completed the dainty ana
useful garment, which any home drass-
maker might successfully duplicate
What was called a habit coat (the model
was part Of a reception robe) was made
of Irish guipure, decorated with appliGues
OF pompadour silk and trimmed with
bands of sable. The garment was novel
in design, a long tab hanging from the
waist at each side, and the back being
adorned with a handsome chou of silk,
which was the termination of the silk
girdle that passed under the front of the
coat. The high, straight collar merged
into fat revers that extended to the
waist The vest consisted of lace cascad-
ed from the collar.
Also for house wear was Coat of
brocade pompadour silk with the bodice,
which followed the bolero outline, sup
plemented in the rear by a narrow
basque cut out separately and stitched
in place. A deep round collar faced with
lace and trimmed6Aith a frill of lace
curved over the shoulders and terminated
in points over the bust The lace APP
peared again in frnls falling from the
dashing looking reyers cuffs. Inc vest