The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1902-01-26
EASTER COAT Is BRING. MADE AND ITS NAME IS "7HE ALEXANDRIA

New York. Jan. M-Dearest: How odd 1t
seems to be SO far launched into 1902 and
nearly into Lent at that. They are making
Bridge gowns now, for. during Lent. Bridge
whist Is about ones only recreation.
1 have a Bridge gown. such a becoming
thing. 1t is all in peach aye know
the soft. warm hue that makes one think
OF peach blossoms. June days and brides.
Mine is IN panne cloth. thin as nuns yelling
and look SO much like 1t, but softer and
giossier. It Is lined with black to deepen
It a little. for 1t is a day gown. and the
yoke. the stock. the sleeves and the belt are
in flet lace over black velvet. 1t Is really
very attractive. l shall wear 1t with silver
ornaments.
My neck is all peaches and cream. they
tell me. and to prove it to the world l have
made my silver gown with a removable
koye. The skirt. which is a princess. comes
up very high on the waist, fairly tapping
the deep yoke. This can be taken out and
q high bertha OF shirred pink chiffon set in.
making It an evening gown. The sleeves are
long. very plain and tight to the elbow, then
they are slit on the under side. and from
the slit comes a fall of chiffon which Is
gathered again and brought in at the waist
In the Workroom of.
French Modiste.
What q sleeve season It Is to bel A queer
little French modiste who lives on one OF
the side streets away from the expensive
neighborhoods. yet whose patrons are many.
has whispered to me some strange advice
about sleeves. This modiste makes q epe-
cialty OF doing a great deal upon nothing.
Really. SO in her hands takes the place OF
so in the clutches Of anybody else. She
knows so well how to contrive.
Well. this gifted woman took me out into
her worllroom one day. when customers
were few. and showed me some strange de-
vices for the fitting of sleeves. Said she:
with each gown I make from this time
on there shall be three sets of sleeves.
But" said ]. "how can they be ex-
changed without too much trouhle?r
Oh she exclaimed. lifting up a waist
and turning II inside out. Look here"
And quickly. before L could protest. she had
pulled a thread and the whole sleeve came
out. Then. with nimble fingers, she I'M
hooked several very tightly caught hooks
and eyes and. behold the sleeve was in her
hand.
Now look" she cried: and picking up
another sleeve. she quickly hooked II into
place, and, running a basting thread around.
behold the sleeve was changed and the
gown was new again.
Each Sleeve Should BE
Finished Around the Top.
The tricks in doing this are several. as
Tou may imagine. First you must finish
each sleeve around the top. or upper part,
a ~ cI1lp VI SILK DTalO OF IdIleI
TO keep the ragged edge from r~avelinr.
Then you must finish the armhole In the
same way Third. you must take care that
the hooks and eyes are well matched or tho
sleeve will not set well. and fourth, you
must be willing to spend fifteen minutes on
the work of taking out your sleeves and
changing them for new ones. II you will
DO all these things. you may have Q new
gown each day In the week.
The gown. SO literally supplied with
sleeves, Is a snoke-color satin-faced dress,
rather dark One pair of sleeves is In
smoke-colored cloth. with half the sleeve
cut away from the elbow to the wrist, Tho
opening Is filled in with smoke-colored
tafeta Of just the same shade. 1t is quite
pulled Tho edge Of the cloth where the
upper part is cut away is finished with mar
row and very small gun-metal buttons.
One set OF sleeves is in smoke-colored
satin The uppers are In tho shape Of
capes. that fall nearly to the elbow. and
are finished with black embroidery. Then
comes an embroidered band around the
arm. then a pun of the satin. taking in the
elbow. then a tight sleeve to the wrist
finished with embroidery.
This Spring Will Be a
Season of Suits.
The third set Of sleeves Il in the smoke
oolored satin cloth. tight at the top and
gradually growing bigger. At the elbow
VI the tulness ID caught back, under q big
gun-metal button. and then comes a big
bell, lined with blue. and with a fun lace
undersleeve. which II caught into q lace
ruffe at the wrist
It is going to be . spring OF suits, and
you and i. who dress az well a. We can on
as little al may be. win have dinicuIty In
keeping up appearances. Yet this Is say
ing too much. for there will be little coats
to match eyery skirt, ana. with a little
coat one can do anything in tho suit line.
Inc new coats are the Htons, cut! upon
dinerent lines. They arc belted and are
eatnsf very tight in front or very loose.
lou can have q double-breasted Eton as
tight a q bodice or you can have one that
oess over the belt The back must, how
syef. Do abbreviated and nine times out Of
tan finished with a velvet belt.
me wrist bag Is surely to be worn tbi.
eblsgatmy. It u to be q beaded bar snd