Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-07-10
some LIVELY RIDES
Driving Through the Precipi-
tous Sonora Mountains
ON A GRAVITY ORE CAR
RoUGHING IT IN THE WIDE
AWAKE MINING TOWNS.
Some Famous Indian Fighters and
Stories of Their Bravery and
Heroism.
ON A GRAVITY ORE CAR
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
LA CANANEA, Sonora, Mexico


The trip to La Cananea. once SO difficult
After leaving Benson the junction Of the
Southern Pacific railway and it's connection
to Guaymas, on the Gulf of California, and
the road to Bisbee. We came into the once
celebrated Tombstone mining district. We
passed the remains of deserted towns. aban-
doned mills and mining plants, but at Fair
banks. the station where the stage coach
is taken. much activity prevailed, many
travellers leaving our train. Tombstone is
on the eve of mining revival, the various
properties having recently been CONSOLE
dated under one management and will be
worked as a whole at profits largely sur
passing those of it's palmiest days Passing
Tombstone. the country opens out into wide
valleys. among the best grazing tracts in
the United States. So clear is the atu1os-
phere that as We wound around the sides
OF the mountains 1t was possible for us,
looking down long valley, to see the blue
outlines of the Cananea mountains and the
steam and smoke arising from the copper
mines. sixty miles distant. We arrived at
the thriving town of Naco, from which
railroad has been built to La Cananea. some
forty-three miles in length. As result Of
these improved facilities, there has been
large influx Of Americans, there being 10
per cent more Americans employed in the
mines than both Mexicans and Chinese.
Prosecutors and fortune hunters are also
still numerous, so many, in fact. that they
cannot be acc0mmOda ted, for as yet there
are no hotels and few boarding houses in
Cananea. though 56-room hotel Is in pro-
cess of construction. Sleeping accommodate
lions are at premium, and men are pay
ing $1.0O apiece per night for small cots
placed side by side in a long tent, called
The Palace Hotel"
A Thriving Town.
The town of La Cananea Is located on a
mesa. above and beyond which rise the
blue Cananea mountains. 1t is laid out in
broad avenues, upon which on all sides are
springing up edifices ranging from small
tents and fine residences to a large two
story brick schoolhouse Ground has been
left for an ample plaza in the center of the
town. to be surrounded by municipal and
other buildings. Considering that the lots
had only been open for sale for a space of
six weeks. the evidence of growth was very
characteristic Of the strenuous life Of this
region The view from the townSite up and
down the wide valleys is magnificent.
Our journey was not altogether unevent-
full Some of the party who were much
decorated in their new Ombreros were ar
ranging to play game of cards. when
much to their surprise and our amusement
the conductor waited on them and said l.:
'SenOrS, it is the wish of the pa SSen gers
that before beginning the game you de-
post with me your firearms 1t was dis
covered that the formidable weapons con-
sisted of a lead pencil toothpick and pen
knife, one of the party being unarmed.
A Wide Awake Camp.
The train passes over TO the camp of Ron
quillo The name signifies 'little snore'
which Is inappropriate, as it is one of the
most wideawake camps, day and night,
have ever seen. 1t is crude, unkempt and
dusty, tin cans, index Of eTnbalmed beef
civilization, are everywhere, almost as
thick in fact empty bottles in prohibit
ton communities. A few good brick stores
have been built and business as extensive
and profitable as In any place in Sonora
Is carried on. There is great activity on
every side, suggestive Of Deadwood and
Leadvilie as l saw them years ago There
are a few comfortable frame and adobe
houses in the camp, but most of the 1000
fnha bitants live In tents or uninviting and
hurriedly-built ''shacks'' of the great
southwest style Of architecture Some of
the native miners live in caves in the sides
OF the mountai ms and in the mouths Of I'M
worked tunnels or IN tents made Of cattle
skins. The town is SO young that there are
10 halls for meetings. no reading room. no
church, no place for diversions of any kind,
except the Cantena. where. as in all mining
towns, drinking and gambling prevail. Ed
ucation is receiving attention and school
has been established. and liberal contribu-
tons Will also be given the fund Of the
state school.
The mountains of this entire region give
indication Of volcanic origin. Here and
there are craters Of extinct vocaroes and
lava of brilliant and varied colors blend
ing tremendously with each other, extend
ing as far as the eye can penetrate.
A Thrilling Ride
I went up in an ore car on a gravity
road. I have gone up Lookout mountain !;
7 "a ipi hut
ton was not half thrilling as in this lit
tie empty ore car drawn by gravity and
that threatened to turn over every now
and then when climbing the Sierras If
ascending was thrilling, 1t did not compare
with the descent In the same car full ct
ore. The engineer was very comforting at
the outset He said: ''Sit In the center
please: not too high. Don't move. The car
is pretty heavy. Hold on tight. May the
Lord be with you. Goodbye" Yet we live
to tell the story.
The fact is I am getting used to those
hair-raisfng tours, especially when Col.
William c. Greene Is whip. He can spin
you around the corners of these dizzy roads
with compound curves and angles, dodge
trains Of burros loaded with wood and
other Instructions and come nearer drop
ping you thousand feet SO without in
terruption and not to do 1t, than any ma l
in the mountains OF Sonora. I think It
gives him real pleasure and diverts his
mind to take the tenderfoot on these ex-
pioring expeditions. He is at home in his
mountain wagon or IN the saddle. and has
an intimate acquaintance with these reg
ions outside as we'll as inside. He speaks
Spanish fiuently, having lived here for
twenty years or more. and am told that
he Mr.. Packard and others own a ratch
containing about two million acres.
Famous Indian Fighters.
Col. Greene has had many encounters
with the Apaches In years gone by. for
these precipitous mountains were once
their haunts and strongholds. Some of the
most trusted men In the efnpioy Of the
mining company have shared the dangers
of the camp with their president, especially
Jim Kirk. Scott White and Uncle Billy
Plaster. There is a little graveyard along
one of the roads saw today where repose
the remains OF several OF the.c pioneer
companions. In the engagement that took
place in this narrow ravfne Col. Greene's
horse had been shot and had fallen on his
leg pinning him to the ground. The In
dians saw his predicament and charged
him from rock to rock. He succeeded in
releasing his Winchester and began firing.
When the rescue party arrived they found
eighteen dead Indians In range OF t.:at gun.