The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-08-31

Both taffeta and peau de soie though by
no means novel, will figure in many of the
more elaborate garments, while smooth-fi
ished cloths are the favorite for ordinary
wear.
For the new capes, however, rich and deli
cate fabrics seem to be the thing, and odd
designs, approaching old-fashioned tippets,
pelerines and shawl draperies, are the most
acceptable to the seeker after genuine novel
ties in up-to-date dress
One of the illustrations represents rather
curious combination of coat and cape the
latter in effect, but really the former in cut
for the body part is supplied with sleeves in
the usual manner
The model is from Panem and is made up
in suede cloth. The entire garment is a
series of overlapping tucks about an inch
wide, and while on the sleeves these plisse
folds follow a horizontal line, ON the rest
of the coat, or cape, they curve upward from
the side to converge at the bust. The neck
is finished with a youthful looking collar
fashioned Of alternating layers of mousse
line the same shade as the cloth and bands
of rich lace This collar is broad enough to
quite cover the tops of the sleeves and it
rounds down prettily to the bust, where it
ends under two large and beautiful jeweled
buttons. From this point there falls soft
scarf Of the mousseline, which has it's ends
cut off square and ernamented with band
of the guipure. The wrap is a charming lit
tie creation for carriage wear during the
early autumn, and it has the great advan-
tage Of being easy to assume with any dress.
Scarcely long enough to be called a three
quarter coat, yet certainly more than the
ordinary length is the garment designed
by Francis and here portrayed. This
too, is of smooth-fnish cloth, and the color
is the most delightful tawny shade with in
sertions Of lace to match An unusual fea-
ture of the coat is the entire absence of col
lar or trimming that in any way suggests
this part of an outdoor garment.
In the front is deep yoke effect of Irish
lace, and to this is given a dropping curve
on each side by fat band of cloth heavily
stitched. The lace Insertion and pieces of
stitching are arranged to present the ap-
pearance of panels in the front and back
The full sleeves are drawn into gauntlet
cuffs made of a solid incrustation of lace
with border of stitched cloth. Outlining
the cut-out neck is fancy silken cord that
loops once at the bust, then is permitted to
fall to the lower edge of the garment, while
an ornament of the same crocheted design,
with two pendants, marks the joining of the
yoke and sleeve.
The third coat here illustrated almost con-
ceals the dress, and it is recommended as
an excellent model for wear at the races.
Dukes ct Joire are responsible for this beau
tiful and practical design, and it must be
confessed that there Is nothing Of the ordi-
nary about it. Smooth cloth is used in this
instance, and the shade is so delightfully."-
vague that one scarcely knows whether to
call it gray or very light brown. Except the
braid trimmings the upper part of this coat
is quite plain, but from the knees down this
condition is broken by series of horizontal
folds, varying from the tiniest pinch tuck at
the top to an inch wide one just above the
extreme bottom. In the top of the sleeves
are six small tucks, and another group fin
ishes the faring cuff. The braid ornamental
ton is put on after the fashion Of military