Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-02-08
STYLES IN MEMS DRESS
THE SUMNER MAN OF NINETEEN
HUNDRED AND TWO.
influence of the Mode of the Last
Heated Season-Passing of knfck-
ers-Half-HOse Hints.


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some difficulty. One can tell with but little
uncertainty just what these new ideas Will
lead to. and by following out the new forms
describe the various articles without fear
of dealing in purely speculative hypothesis.
During the latter part of last summer the
mode underwent various changes, and these
are now brought up in their most recent
stage of development as the proper thing
for the summer season of 1902. Whenever
any article of dress assumes form that
is the result of slight notifications we can
properly accept it as conservative and,
therefore a dependable style. have often
noticed that whatever went well in the
smart trade at the end OF one season was
certain of a successful revival, az leaSt
during the first part of the season that fol-
lowed We find that the charac terstics of
last summers dress. so far as haberdashery
was concerned, We're the loW-fold collars,
the narrow derbys, the rather loud half
hose and the pleated negliSe SHIRTS. In
each of these articles of dress changes nave
been made, and it is these changes that
form the new styles for the coming season.
1t is in keeping with the conservative tone
of the mode that nothing noticeably new
should be given undue prominence. Ihis
tone is preserved in the new goods. They
are merely conservative departures from
forms that have in slightly-changing
widths. colors or heights been in vogue for
several seasons.
Changes in Collars.
We find in collars for next summers wear
the most noticeable changes. 1t is conceded,
1 believe, that we may place the wing col
lar out of all calculations, for with the
coming in of the soft shirt and the discard
ing of waistcoats the fold collar is sure to
reign supreme. The new fold collars will
be of two types, that which has an outer
fold that will cover the cravat band
and that with the fold that exposes
about half an inch Of the cravat
band. The former style will undoubt-
eddy be the most popular, with the
aforementioned style as novelty. The new
fold collars will be of moderate height. We
can safely put the limit at two and half
inches. They will have both rounded and
square points, and will be made with the
extension or lock front and with the new
lap-over front. They will have the wide
stitching a finish that suits this style of
collar better than any other. think that
the front openings will be less narrow than
last seasons, in order to give the new era
watts knotting room.
Cravats Limited in Forms.
Cravats will practically be limited to two
FORMS the four-in-hand and the batswing
tie Both of these will be wider than they
were last season. The ties will be made
with the pointed as well as the square ends,
and will run from one and a quarter to one
and three-quarters inches in width, while
four-in- hands will run from one and three
quarters to two and a quarter inches, and,
like the batswings. will have pointed or
square ends. For riding and driving as well
as wheeling the stocks will be perfectly
correct. For golf that is, when one is act
ually engaged in play, l do not think that
anything can displace the comfortable big
linen or silk golf neckerchiefs. The four
in-hands will be worn in the usual way and
will almost reach the waist. The pin to be
worn in these cravats should be small.
There is nothing better than the oval gold
pins with the wearer's monogram, or
small unfinished gold ornament with
small pearl. Large pins will only be worn
in the ascot.
Belts will not show any noticeably new
features. The plain, harness-stitched, black
belt with the small trace buckle will be the
fayorite. These belts will be made In all
widths, but 1 think the narrower styles
best OF course, l do not mean the half
inch affairs, but those varying from an inch
up to an inch and threequarters. For golf,
the square or large neckerchief will be
proper for wear instead Of a belt. These
squares are 2sx2s inches, and simply
rolled up and tied about the waist, the
knot being on the left side. These come in
all colors, but do not think that the very
odd effects will be as popular as the club
college colors in suitable stripes or other
proper sporting patterns.
New NegliEe Shirts.
The new neglige shirts will be made in
the plain and pleated styles, and I am in
clined to think that for town wear the lat
ter will be best, while for outing wear and
knockabout country wear the former will
be the favorite. The shirts, no matter how
they are made, should be in quiet colors and
patterns, and 1 think that white shirts. will
play a most important part at least In the
business dress Of the season. Flannel
shirts with quite narrow cuffs, made up in
neat effects. will be quite proper for town
or country wear.
We will continue to favor low-cut shoes,
and therefore, fancy half-hose. 1t Is best
to avoid the extremely loud and intricate
patterns. The neatly clicked socks in solid
colors and the new embroidered instep eff
fects, as well as the vertical and horizontal
stripes, provided that they are not noticea-
bly, loud In colorings. may be worn. The
popularity Of flannel trousers has relegated
Knockers to the fields Of utility for which
they were originally designed and these are
wheeling, mountain climbing, riding and
rough outing, so golf hose should be select
ed for wear and not for looks. 1 like the
perfectly plain, solid colors best; but, II
one must have color. then small garter or
band of tartan plaid or fancy loZenge de-
sign in heather or Scotch color Is not out
of place on the turn-oVers.
In hats the Panama and the "boater"
will be the proper forms. The Panama I'M
doubtediy will be the most popular. 1t is a
most becoming hat to the average man,
and If it does not become too popular, will,
L
The Country Swell.
OF course all this Is somewhat specula-
tive. 1 have seen all that our best haber-
dashers and matters have prepared, and. If
my predictions gang agree" it will merely
go to prove how uncertain are the vagaries
of that unfathomable and undefinable influ-
ence that makes the mode. We are, all of
us, justified in taking risks, and fashions
are not so long as conservatism reigns a
matter of speculation, but matter of COM
mon sense application Of simple good taste,
and an ever-present regard for gentility,
conservatism and refinement. The man who
strives to make introductions of his own,
or who persists in wearing loud colored ap-
parel will fall short of the ideals that will
govern.
The extremist or the country ''swell'' will
undoubtedly indulge In dress extravag ances
The unsightly big brim soft shapeless Pana-
ma, with colored ribbon, the very, very low
collar and the string-like derby will be
the prominent points In the dress IF the
youth who shaves the back of his neck
Gentlemen will avoid all these very promi-
nent peculiarities and will strive to pre-
serve the quiet, easy, graceful ensemble
that always denotes what I will term
clothes ease. There is nothing in the new
wardrobe to justify one in predicting the
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