New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1902-04-14
GOOD DIET FOR SPRING.
FISH AND WHITE MEATS PREFERABLE
To ROASTS AND STEAKS-VEGETA-
RIFS COOKED IN ITALIAN WAYS.

Al this season most people prefer fish and white
meats to heavy roasts and steaks While authort-
ties have disputed the ofttimes Wanted qualities
Of fish as d brain food, it undoubtedly recommends
itself to persons whose occupations are not Of an
a-d7,ors nature physically. OF late 1t has become
tbe fashion TO have fish the chief breakfast dish
many tables.
The midday meal. which used to be the principal
repast of the day. is eliminated from the rou-
tine Of many people. whose work makes a call
1IDon their mental forces. There is growing ten
dency among such persons TO return TO the old
fashioned American breakfast. instead Of having
the coffee and rolls of the French to dispense with
the luncheon. and substitute an early dinner FOR
the late evening meal
Above all. the theories of the 1i-vegetarians
are quietly gaining more ground with people con-
WINGED that character. tastes habits virtues and
sins as well as face and form. produced by the
foods that are eaten Statistics have proved that
the lighting races eaters: the deepest
thinkers the phIegmatc, beer drinking and sausage
eating Germans. while Italy, the land where meats
Of all sorts are almost hanished from the table in
their solid forms produces the poets the musicians.
the sculptors and artists in greatest number.
The italian can live fruit the bread of his
country and the various pastes that form such
nourishing factor in the foods Of the nation But
above all has the cook of Italy mastered the art of
cooking vegeta bles-not the French or American
cook prepares them, but with admiXture OF
broths and gravies made from meat juices and
poultry that gives to these dishes a new signlh-
and quality or nutrition.
Americans. as a rule. not familiar with the
true stve of italian cookery it practised in
the native land. and must Judge from the dishes
served the Italian restaurants. which are largely
modified by the French modes of cooking. But
even in these establishments cannot fail TO
notice the difference all vegetables served-the
potatoes always with their favoring OF cheese and
the common French bean transformed from the
tasteess vegetable IT is ordinarily TO most de-
licious dish rich color and taste and as tender
in quality asparagus. although it is usually the
toughest and stringiest Of vegetables
The American cook usually considers that when
French beans. string beans, as they are better
known are stripped of the distinguishing string
and boiled in water. they ready for the table
But the Italian method. or one Of the many meth
DDS is more characteristic. The beans are first
placed in cold water. after having beer prepared
by stringing and breaking their in inch pieces
After soaking for thirty minutes they dried and
then thrown into a saucepan or boiling water with
some salt and butter. Then they cooked slowly
for about half an hour until tender. and then
placed in dish with fresh butter, salt and pepper
Another way of cooking string beans calls for
grated cheese. sprigs of parsley. chives the yolks
of eggs. and beaten cream. with a tablespoon
full OF powdered sugar added; Every known variety
ner hut there is always the addition of some other
food and in many cases the white and red wines or
the country give the dish distinction and flavor
In the manner, the Italian dignities potatoes
by characteristic touch, adding butter
chopped parsley and the juice of two lemons 70
one dish, while potatoes IN casseruola are still
unusual dainty. that would probably prove
extremely mystifying the Irish epicurean who
always prefers potato with bone in (which
I translated a half cooked potato
! For the casseruoIa pound of mashed pota-
is mixed with the yolks Of four eggs half a
pint Of and two ounces of butter in sauce
pan. They cooked together until quite hot and
stirred TO a haky paste then sprinkled with salt
and pepper. This paste is arranged III circle on
dish and in the 70 brown.
| The space is filed IN with fricassee Of
chicken rabbit any kind Of stew mushrooms
or any cooked vegetables left from the day
before with the pulp Of six tomatoes stirred into
! the mixture. The Italian has just thirty ways or
preparing this most ordinary vegetable. each one
! quite as new odd and appetizing the fore
going