Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1902-10-09
new YORK FASHION LETTER
Distinguished Features OF 1.-THE New
Home Gown-The Autumn Shirt
Waist.

shedding their warmth through the house,
the house gown becomes a subject of i'm
mediate consideration.
There are several distinguishing fca-
lures of the house gown of 1902 and all arc
combined in a most hewitching ensemble.
For one thing the shoulders are very
broad. the Gibson effect being employed
to gain this attribute of fashion. There
is. however an Improvement upon the
Gibson shoulder effect of the summer, for
instead of the single box plat there are,
two folds extending over the sleeves and
these arc the continuation of myriad rows
of tiny tucks which have their beginning
ut the opening of the gown.
Only the softcst most delicate fabrics
are used for these house costumes. SILK
crepe de Chine satin liberty, India silk
silk challies and cashmcrcs lend them
selves beautifully to the modes employed
and their delicate colorings afford effcc-
tive combinations.
Invariably tho trimming is profuse.
Frils OF lace ruf''es of chiffon, nounces
of emhroid, red silks and appliqucs with
out end adorn these gowns in bewilderinS
loveliness. Many of the expensive designs
in light weight silks are interviewer with
rhiffon and lace then accordion plated
and built over foundations of heavy taf-
feta satin.
Necessarily tho long flowing lines of the
street dress find their fullest perfection
in these graceful house gowns. Although
the decoration is piled on with lavish
hand, there Is not an extra stitch to sug-
gest stiffness and the gown must fail to
the floor with undisturbed freedom and
reval effect.
There arc none oe the expensive designs
which can not he carried out in inexpen-
sive materials and the silk crepes with
pipincs and appioues of panne bands are
compelled to bear compa risen with models
of oh trip nod nj
VET ribbon or cheap silk. while the latter
suffer none by the compa rison and the
wearers gain much by the difference in
cost.
| Another article of dress which demands
much attention Just now is the autumn
| shirt waist. This holds just as important
place in the fashionable wardrobe aa
docs the summer shirt waist and Is this
season more beautiful than ever. Tho
tailor finished designs in soft light wool or
doeskn French flannel are especially at
tractive. There IS tendency to use light
colors to great extent in these waists,
AS is shown by the number of light blues,
grevs. greors creams asd amettysts dis
played in the shops.
| Many Of the waists have the prevailing
slOt-sean decoration, that is the seams
rot beng stitched together, hut stitched
TO a foundation Of the same color goods or
a contrasting color about a quarter OF an
tdoks or silk embroidered bands. Then
for the short siIterhood there are trim
minCs Of narrow velvet, soutache and
gimp that Civ" the waist the effect of he
ing built of striped fabrics and lend
height to the figure.
| There is really nothing like these aut-
umn shirt waists to wear with indcpen-
dent skirts or as finish for open front
jackets For the street they can be WON
with Simple neck arrangement with en-
| cecdhcly smart effect and for theatre or
matinee the same waist is dressy with
the simple addition of a fancy stock Of
silk or lace.
| Hpropos of fancy stocks and Jackets ono
is reminded of quite charming new W.
gary of fashion-the lace coatec. A fire
lawn euipurc collar and wide Alencon lace
are the factors in this concern-in fact. a
lace coatee has arisen from A collar and
n piece Of lace. The lace Is laid on To
form the sacoue from the shoulders. and
two widths Of it go to form the sleeves
| and have their edges met together with
| n etrip Of pale blue panne which is very
sweet note. tn same pannc lends other
minor traces to The little coat, which is
worn with skirt Of pale blue crepe de
| chine.
Probably the only evidence of economy
IN the modes of this fall is in the petit
ooat-that is the one for street wear. This
| season instead of the Ella borate all-Sili
affair tn" foundation of the ultra-smart
p"tticoat is built Of morecn or some sub
stantia imitation silk fabric and only the
nouncos arc of silk The idea is a ser
Viceabe ore. for as fast AS one r,fle
whips out another may be substituted
without ones having to go tho expense Of
purchasing an entire new skirt.
For house wear. however. Dame Fashion
has beer compromising matters with pet
ticoats. giving to silk top all it's founc.
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soon soiled may he detached and washed
These wide founces are made detacha bic
nv means Of safety hooks and eyes and
are easily manipulated
The skirt which is composed ~ three
founces from girdle to hem is constantly
} growing in favor and will no doubt he
one Of the universal fashions of winter
The bottom founce. of course, is fullest
and. soing upward, each other ruff1t
boa SITS less Of flare.
, There is a soft rich shade of greer
which Is much worn this fall and trimmed
! with ecru embroidery. it is quite thu
smartest thing one could wish. Tho Skin
, of a costume composed Of this fabric ha:
0uarter-inch tucks headed by the en-
| hr0dcry and there is an arrangement q
the trimming of the skirt which suggest.
, an ovcr-skirt effect. The vest collar anC
dare of the sleeves are all of the ON
e broidery and natty decoration of th'
bodice Is eUecre0 ny cd1cnlng tnnS OF In'
Il filrnv embroidery into velvet rings. Thu
velvet is repeated in the girdle and fold
of the stock.
2 There are many beautiful French cash
mcres in the shops Just now and at rea
9 sonable prices. soft, velvet grey cash
mere is particularly becoming to clear
: commissioned brunettes. Made up with .
soft white silk vest and undersleeves o
I of white embroidered chiffon and a littl
silver and opal bead passamenterie. tn
= cffec ct Of the tint Is greatly enhanced
Among the newest coats to rival in pop
!; ula rty the tailor made Jackets with tn
n slot seams as it's latest variation ar
Trouvile coats with small position belt
[ Monte Carlo models with fiat shawl cola
and page sleeves. tailor blouses with slo
q seams. duchess front closing and modife
bishop sleeves and Louis qunZe basque
q bodices.
Velvet costumes are rich. elegant an
e nonular. OF course the most excusiv
thing to have In ones wardI obe is a pam
o velvet frock, but there are elegant sill
velvets which are very gorgeous indeed
The approved method of making the bod
ices of these velvet costumes is with
yoke or white silk or lace and chifo
from which turns back lapels of real lac
embroidered In gold or silver threads.
= In the matter of belts wide latitude
:, allowed. Some very pretty effects AZ
- gained with the velvet, while others ar
of gold and silver mesh, extremely fragil
AMI pliahle enough to tie into any fanct
fLl shape, Smart new gloves Of heavy XII
:, are stitched with tintest strips Of pam
y velvet and indeed, the fabric Ia used as
-, trimming In every way conceivable.
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