New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1902-06-02

s+rong light from The south. The faces are still
here-not only those OF the beggars. 10 whom
St Thomas of Villanueva is giving aims out
also those of the Madonnas and the eheruns
Beautiful and picturesque Seville was the nat
ural birthplace of great painters. The G1ralda
slone would have been a source of artistic in
sniration for II Is one of the loveliest of ORR
entaI ninarets; but the cathedral itself Is the
,rendest Gothic structure In Spain. and we'll
nigh rivals St Peters at Rome In magnitude
The Moorish AlcaEar, with decorative designs
exceeded IN delicacy only by those of the AL
hsmhra is enbowered in gardens adorned with
arabesque pavilions. and the palace of the Duke
Of Alba and the Casa de Pilatus reveal the
blending of Arab and Gothic art in the sumptu-
Gus Mudejar style. There are many beautiful
structures in Seville; but more effective than
Moorish monuments or Renaissance creations
is the landscape setting of tropical softness and
richness In every public garden and open
snace there are palms and magnolias, orange
trees and expresses acacias and aloes; and be-
vend the long curve of the tawny Gudalquivir
there are olive groves, grape vineyards and
tsngles OF prickly pear. The city is fairly en-
lowered in tropical verdure; for every house of
any pretensions has its uncovered court thanked
nv arcades. and this is converted into a lovely
Garden Labyrinths of winding alleys and pas
ssges and open air patios with roses and myrtles
ere the common heritage from Moorish times
and are TO be seen in every old Spanish town:
hut in Seville the Oriental effects are more
picturesque and brilliant than in other Southern
cities Every traveller with sensihiiity to beauty
ia fascinated by the varied charms Of Seville.
He rambles among the tangles of streets in an
ecstasy Of delight; returns day after day to the
srabeseue areades and pavions Of the Alcazar
srardens with a fresh glow Of enthusiasm, is
overwhelmed by the solemnity of the aisles and
the grandeur of the nave Of the Gothic cathe-
oral, and is never weary of watching aloft the
mink flush of the graceful Giralda it fades
into the deep blue of the tropical sky.
If Cordova has ceased to be the Athens of
Spain, with libraries and strongholds of learn
ing as conspicuous the dreamy courts Of the
callphs, with their mosaics and arahesques,
literature is not forgotten tradition at Seville.
There are two collections of exceptional interest
10 Americans. One is the General Archives Of
the Indies with over thirty thousand portfolios
containing manuscripts and documents relating
TO the discovery and conquest of Spanish-Amer-
lea and the Philippine Islands. The history of
the decline and fall of the Spanish Empire Will
one day be written by some Flooding investi-
gator who has the patience TO examine hun
dreds of thousands of manuscripts relating to
the government Of Spanish colonies The other
collection is the Biblioteca Coumbna in the
Moorish Court of Oranges underneath the
Giralda. There thirty thousand volumes
relating 10 the discovery of America and the
geographical and scientific knowledge of the
period Of Columbus. 1t is unique library, col
leeted by the pious of Columbus and be-
eueathed to the Cathedral Chapter at time
when reverence for learning was one Of the best
traditions of the Catholic Church in Spain. The
most precious relics are the books which Co
lunabus himself read and annotated, and the
singular treatise written by him as a concession
TO the clergy on the Scriptural indications of
the New World. The ancient missals and books
are handsomely bound. and many Of them are
illustrated with miniatures: and the arrange
nlent of the alcoVes is systematic and well
devised. This library in the neglected Court
of Oranges has suffered from lack of apprecia-
lion on the part Of the cathedral dignitaries;
and a good many manuscripts and books from
the averstocked shelves have been sold. 1t re-
tains however, its character cathedral In
stitution, and helps to remove the reproach that
the Church, which drove the Moers with their
erudition out Of Spain, has set its face against
learning. The ashes of Columbus are now under
the vaulted roof of the cathedral, having found
q final resting place not far from the grave Of
his son: but the monument to be erected over
them is still incomplete. L \. F.