Omaha daily bee., 1902-09-07

chest, the ends fastening in a crush belt
OF the same material.
The sleeves Of all these three gowns
we're the inverted mutton legs approved in
Paris.
House Gowns.
Nothing could be more effective for house
gowns thar falls Of lace on embroidery
over the shoulders. Dropping hchus and
capes give a look Of grace where there Is
none, Just as a train does; a look Of
femininity, II you will, which Is always
desirable.
A batch Of pretty house crowns dis
played in a leading department store re-
F., vealed the new cape collar in its most
enchanting shapes. Everything was done
to make the shoulders long and dropping,
the widening OF the sleeves at the bottom
adding to the down falling effect.
A delicious house. frock on the princess
order showed punches Of grapes worked at
the upper line Of the lace shoulder frill.
The yoke and front Of the dress, which
was Of ivory white cashmere, we're in all
over lace. bordered by a bias Of white
%tafeta, needle-worked. The same banding
zigzagged over the narrow front. four scant
frills finishing the skirt at sides and back.
A very dainty dress OF pastel gray wolfe
showed a shoulder frill Of the same. drop
ping from a crap lace collar. The sleeves
and bodice OF his was all in bias folds
held in shape by mere pressing. The back
and sides Of the skirt we're killed, the
apron gore being left plain and outlined
with bands Of the lace.
A charmingly graceful detail was a sash
Of black velvet. This was cut bias and
tied in a round bow at the front with long
ends.
Among the new autumn and winter colors
many wonderful shades of blue are seen.
There are also rich browns, dull reds mag
nihcently effective, and the blue and green
combinations so much worn this summer.
Contrary to expectation, 1t is declared that
this combination shall go t~rlumphantly
through the autumn and winter. trough
It will be seen mainly in gown textures.
A beautiful Scotch wool in invisible plaids
connecting very indistinct) shows a line
Of black with the blue and green.
Braids in Favor.
Braids will not be used again, put on in
plain rows, the widths graduating, and
in many novel ways.
A street gown of blue French cloth re-
Gently worn by one Of New York's smart
set showed the braid fever in e form as
VIII 40 GhGGllNGs luz ldAbtIo hh0 b0Vh
made by sewing a narrow black braid round
and round. These bordered the skirt in
a single row, the targets placed at inter-
walls of six inches. The tailed bodice
showed only two, but they were as vast
as those Of the skirt. Placed over each
bust, these had something Of the look
of the breast shields worn b. the ANA
cons Of ancient history. Nevertheless,
funny as It was, the striking arrangement
called for the admiration of every eye.
The gown was plainly executed, only for
its present owner. Beyond a doubt Ii was
the sole blossom Of it's kind in existence.
The back Of the Jacket waist was re-
lieved from %plainness by a round collar
trimmed with the braid IN straight rows.
The same bordered the basques and deep
cuffs Of the sleeves. These were tucked in
a tight cap at the top, which greatly in
creased the length of the shoulders. At
the bottom Of the sleeves there were, Of
course, the usual puffs.
1t is plain that overskirts are once more
striving for recognition, many of the i'm
ported gowns showing tentative efforts in
this direction. AS yet the jupe draperles
are identifying, the double skirts seen
being mainly cut with flowing Greek lines.
But there are basques suspiciously remin-
iscent of the peplums Of ye olden days, the
upward slashings suggesting the former
looping.
Provided we don't return to ''plnbacks"
and bustles, however, we may endure the
overskirt.
One Of the new skirts has the back in
three Killed ~iounces. headed by a wide
band Of trimming. The narrow apron gore
and apron cores are narrower than
ever-is made entirely OF the trimming,
embroidery tucking or ~braiding.
M Graceful skirts.
But the most graceful skirt Is still the
one severely simple in cut. The lines are
long and flowing, a judicious shaping Of the
bottom producing the requisite foot flare.
Sometimes the fare is made by the deep
hounce seen this long while, but the newer
method achieves 1t with the skirt cut alone.
A concession to novelty-for fair women
must have some ~change-is to outline a
hip yoke with several rows Of stitching,
which extend down the almost straight
apron gore. With this decoration a grad
uated hounce is often simulated by the
stitching, which, IL 1t Is in the color Of
the own and we'll done, is very handsome.
Contrasting stitchings are not now 30 pop
ular.
Bodice models show many variations or
the blouse waist. which for dressy cos
tunes will sim be g prime f~avorite. Street
gowns. especially those for ordinary wear.
continue to be made with jaunty Elton
jackets. These neat little coats have been
found too generally becoming to be dis
earded. A pretty short coat model points
deeply at the front and hangs straight at
the back. There It Il very short, for the
tendency OF all the tailless coats now is
to show some portion II not all OF the belt.
Many Of the loose coats are in kills, the
necks finished with low collars M the
fronts with stole pieces widening At the
bottom. These are sewed to the coat and
generally show the trimming used else
where.
Flowing sleeves are permitted with both
long and short coats. but in the last in
stance they are made rather small. Even
the long coats keep the flow OF open sleeves
within reasonable pounds. As to the neck
finish, all wraps OF any modish pretension
are there low and fatty treated. Many Of
the necks are even cut down in a modest
~ H.. Z. IA.