The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1902-01-26

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Special Correspondence of The Sunday Republic.
Paris, Jan. 1.-The question of dress grows
more perplexing and more bewilderipg each
season. There is more liberty of choice,
more scope for individual taste and indi-
Vidual feelings. But these must only be
permitted in certain bounds. and while
culling as many novelties as We can from
every period of dress. we are bound to
recognize certain fundamental rules regu-
lating the modes of the moment Nothing
is more unfavorable to a good appearance
than a toilet which is eccentric, although
inspired by some particular artistic service.
not well carried out. and. consequently.
approaching to vulgarity.
New French Hat of
White Beaver Felt.
We are paying special attention now to
hairdressing, because 50 much depends on
1t. 1t is quite a different matter when ev-
cry one wore bonnets, and put them on in
the easiest fashion possible. tying the
strings under the chin, with no fear OF
their moving. A lot OF the new French
shape is chiefly made OF white and light
tinted beaver felt, bound with black velvet
and very nat at the back OF the head. Some
times the brim is black. but more often
of a light color. The treatment Of the felt
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ally broad at the brim. A beautiful model is
q gray beaver felt, with q couple Of wings
of al Austrian bird OF quite
plumage; gray and green, placed exactly in
the center Of the back. united by q steel
ornament-for the treatment Of the back OF
hats would seem to be equally Is important
as the front.
Some Pleasing Gowns Designed
for the "Wall Flowers"
There was q time when wall flower was
regarded as a term of reproach when applied
to s~olitary-"sittsrs only" at dances-but
such Is not the case in these latter days,
fer IT Il no uncommon thing to see several
fair damsels In the prettiest and dandiest
frocks demurely playing the part of wall
flowers. SO fashion has designed some very
charming GOWNS for the wal flowers" A
very graceful n original gown is of
moussslins de sole in the new champagne
tint. over satin Of the same delicate hue,
the skirt adorned with lace insertion and
lpltsse nounce and little soft ruches Of the
sifken muslin. The bodice exhibits ensc-
tive touches Of Gainsborough-blue Oriental !
satin.
Hat Flowers Are Worn
Beneath the Brim.
Flowers are beginning to play a more de- F.
cided part In millinery than they have done |
for some time, n they are bestowed as
much beneath the brim as on the top, being
mostly poised on the right side of the face. |
The brim Il often made to descend lower |
the left. Some Of the white felt hats |
have eyelet holes. through which narrow |
black chenille is run In close lines, back on |
the brim and the crown. This plan saves a |
great deal Of trouble to the milliner, a
bow Of black velvet being generally placed |
beneath. Mfllinsrs must perforce pay q
great deal Of attention t6sthe making Of |
r7settes. which are absolutely essential to
good appearance On most Of, The broad
hats now worn 4
Crepe de Chine Evening Gown
Trimmed With Lace.
A pretty land graceful evening gown Of
crepe dc Chine was seen in one Of the
fashionable shops the other dag. The bod
ice was low, the sleeve was quite short
and the top OF the shoulder covered with a
lattice-work Of lace. daintily pouched. Some
very pretty lace dresses, or rather gowns, |
made in new black square-meshed lace, are
very popular. b ACE Is nearly everlast-
Ding with circles and motifs Of lace set in.
skirts are well shaped and the design
OF Chantilly Il quite new. The net Is not
cut way under the applfQues.S nor under
tho insertions. which gives 1t much addi-
ttional strength; the net being very supple,
It does not take way from the general
effect, a great point in its favor. These
skirts are quite cheap.
Velvet Flowers That Could
Be Appliqued on Silk.
Another novelty 1 came across here was
q bouquet of bold black velvet flowers lii
single Christmas roses. about the size Of
the palm Of ones hand. ready to applique
silk. lace CT such thin material, AZ
chiffon.
There is an open circle in the middle
through which the material can be drawn,
and it Is very effective and gives a smart
1nish to the dress.
Boleros OF lace, cut in broad tabs at the
ends. adjust themselves remarkably well
q the figure. and so they do when they are
made Of handsome Jet, soft n supple. not
w1thstanding that the flowers are large and
bold.
Holland Batiste Embroidered
With Tiny Silk Motifs.
A capital stun here I strongly recommend
to those who want to Journey abroad and
lake an evening dress with them IL a sort
OF Holland silk batiste. embroidered with
tiny silk motifs Of the same shade all over
and intermingied with black velvet and lace
Insertions, by which they. are divided. as it