The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1902-07-20
Great Army of Designers at Work
During tho Summer.
CONE HOME WITH FIRE GOWNS
Americans Returning With the Costly
Gowns and Wraps Gotten /.
for the Corona-
ton
BY May Manton.

1900
n new 81 the world Of dress Women
CT the fashionable world are supplied
md are enjoying the nountalns, the
seashore and travel The world OF de-
sdEners and dressmakers s1so Is travel
ing and searching Tar and wide for novel;
DIES with which to greet saoated tastes
whom. once more, change Of season0
shall bring about the demand. From
Cur SIDE OF the great sea hundreds OF
ruch seekers are setting SAIL for Paris.
London. Vienna From these great
centers others arc being sent 70 inc
a Orient and to all the great picture GAL
le1scs OF the world. in order that some
Trash Inspiration may DO found. some
hint or suggestion CLEANED. 14uAo olS 1.1u
extrayagancs grow apace. In common
Nth other forms OF indulgence. they
(, grow in proportion as they are fed- and
the feeding seems ever to become S.oro
generous and extended. What tho au-
s,unn Will bring forth Is Yet unknown.
The next Development OF 1sshlon ".n
remain a sealed book for sone weeks 10
come at least; but In the costumes OF
me hour, in the dainty evening gowns
z and wraps. the smart morning Fisiiius
toilettes and the elegant uavenag ooe
ats are to be found ample material Aot
Immediate contemplation
The failure of the coronation fetes
xent cumberless women home Win
trunks laden with costly gowns ana
superb wraps. AS a result the Wate,lns
places ure even more resplendent 1hao
common. Summer dinners ana oance,
<,tdoor, teas and the like are ateehaeo
with even more fine dressing than is the
rule. Unqucsuonably. the performance
of white is the first feature to attFact
the attention. Following that one
struck with the exquisite colorlngs anu
the somewhat oyerlaV1sn use oi az, LII!
ming If we DO not paint the NY IN
these DAYS, we do what Is equivalent
md not infreuuently spoil good 1hihs
no a result. Not few OF those gowns
which failed tc see the spiendor Oh Ing
: lands court are moro renaIAapie NC
trulv beautiful: but while TINS Is rvs,
x much genuine beauty IS. TO be fouId anu
2 hints as to what IS good style are 10 pe
3 CLEANED by the score. a,,,
No material has the favor shown Voiae
for visiting driving and Ell Ell iiooii
functions One CT the latest "hltns Is
8 the use OF coats made to haImoAl4e win
Z the costume, while not Of the same ma
!! tar..,1 no the gown AS a rule, silk, and
:,raferahIy taffeta is the fabric choseh'
nrd r. matches in color and tnlsh the
gown with which it is worn one seen
orita recently is Of q delicious shaoe o.
fawn, and is Of the same SILK as wa: ~
used to trim the gown Oh Eoiie ia 40
of the same shade. Inc coa' 10 itl ~
quarter length with fitted nach ana
h,If fitted rounded fronts, which open 10
reveal the exquisite bodice worn beneath
The sleeves are ample in bishop st!ie wiz
4 Follower cuffs Of silk oreriaid with 1rlsn
lace, below which falls plisse Hills OF
fawn colored chiffon Another is IN sou
dove gray and cut en- traine SO com
nletely covering the gown the coat
proper is cut In panels edged with irish
lace and to their lower edge is .attachea
e. deep plisse fiounce OF mousselitls.s Al
the neck are double collars, the upper
most of lace. and down the fronts are
.abots Of lace, over mousseline. that are
omnlv fnl1 and handsome. The sleeves
are in bell shape, split at the PACK. ana
are finished with frills like those tnat
form the jabotS. In both instances tne
Innings are Of the same Nshade as lhe
coats and the entire costume 50 retains
its prevailing note Nothing more ere
rant well could be imagined. The color
scheme in both cases is exquisite and in
the best of taste and the wraps give Just
the final touch while they serve to pro-
tect the still moore dainty gowns which
they conceal.
Never have we had any material sus-
cept!b!e Of finer methods of treatment
than the voile and our artistic designers
have been quick TO turn it to best &C
count Tucks and plaits, that are the
farorite methods of treatment, suit II
to perfection. It is soft pliaole' grace
full and withal TO be found in most eH-
cuis,te colors and tints. A most deSir-
able and smart costume for visiting and
driving that is somewhat less extreme
than those Just described but effective
and chic. is OF the sheer sort in warm
blue and IS hung over green Inc skirt
IS formed by three deep tucked nounces,
each OF which Is edged with silk band
nut on with faggotting. The jacket Is
tucked belero similarly edged. cut
quite short and with ample bell sleeves
finished with plisse frills OF chiffon, set
within and extending oaly slightly below
The bodice Is a simple blouse. but or
Irish lace and with big full sleeves that
droop below those of the bolero. The
green IS never aggressive. It Is there
and it makes itself known In a subtle
suggestion of color, that tempers and
harmonizes with the blue, .and It Is es-
sentially smart. but so carefully nave
both shades been selected one looks
twice before realizing just how the effect
is produced. No combination is more
fashionable and none requires grea ter
skill to obtain satisfactory results.
Touches Of green are seen on every side.
Much Of the genuine paroQuet shade is
used in bits and on millinery, but let
ever doing. Nothing is easier than TO
vulgarize just such effects.
Unless one have an artistic eye. or can
AFFORD to employ others who have made a
stuov of color it is wiser BIZ far to choose
less popular and less dangerous combina-
lions. Within the week have seen the
exquisite costume described and some very
charming and essentially smart hats Of
white with green in the trimming; but
I also have seen dozens of green and blue
combinations to make one shudder, and
huge green birds perched defiantly on hats
thaI seemed all too big and heavy for
the wearers' heads. Birds, by the way,
are much IN evidence. Many times over
one Is tempted to ask. does the Audubon
Society really exist? Personally. / do not
ADMIRE them as millinery, apart from the
grounds Of disapproral. Just Why any
woman should like to wear their poor.
cead bodies do not understand. They
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