Evening star., 1902-03-22
THE PROPER SEASON
Go to Northern Europe in the
Winter.
ITALY IN SUM MER
FEATURES OF EACH THEN SEEN
AT THEIR BEST.
Advantages of This Way of Seeing the
Sights-German Senti-
ment.
Copyright. 1902, by Francis f. Clark.)

| Copyright. 1902, by Francis f. Clark.)
| Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
| STOCKHOLM. Sweden. February p, 1902
| When people go to the continent OF
Europe, why do they not travel north in
winter and south, if they must travel
| south at all, in summer. and thus the
| northland and the southland in their own
| characteristic seasons? This is a question
| which l have asked myself a score of
| times within the past week.
My purpose in coming to Europe at this
| time. which is to help my friends in many
| lands to extend and establish the Christian
Endeavor movement, has led me to take
! this journey in February, of more than
1000 miles toward the north pole, from
! Italy to northern Sweden, journey which
! otherwise l would not have thought of
| undertaking. SO | write. not out of supe-
| rior wisdom, but - tell of what fortune
! has thrown in my way. for, had it not
| been for this kindly fortune. 1 should be
! shivering in Italy today. instead of en-
| joying a warm and comfortable ride
| through Sweden. 1t is a total mistake to
| go south to get warm. ..
People go south to catch cold. to shiver
i III damp picture galleries and moldy
| churches. They go south to warm their
| cold palms over an Intellectual brazier of
Goals, or to blow with blue lips feeble
heat goes up the chimney, while all the
| time they blow the fire they are haunted
! by the uncomfortable thought that wood
costs seventy-five cents a basket They
go to Italy in winter to paddle through
| wet and slippery streets, with the rain
| ceaselessly beating upon their umbrellas
and soaking their feet. They go south to
| be cheated at every turn by overShrewd
| cab men; to be bounded at every landing
| place for tips and fees: to be chased by
! loathsome beggars; to be imposed upon in
a score of namelesS ways.
| They go north to find warm rooms in the
| humblest hotels. however frosty the air
may be outside to find steam heat in every
| room. Or better still, the great white por-
| celain monuments that extend from floor
! to ceiling and that give out such a genial
warmth They go north to find the rail-
| way cars becoming more and more COM
Portable as they journey; in Germany bet
| ter than in Italy; in Denmark better than
| in Germany. and in Sweden best of ALL
| They go north to find the cars heated by
steam from the engine. instead of chilled
| by the farccal water cans which our
| friends in England and southern Europe
! rejoice in.
Munich and Dresden and Berlin have
| Copenhagen and Stockholm and Lin Ko-
ping and Upsala their great cathedrals?
| joys Of Snow and Ice.
Are there not ice-joys and snow-beau.
ties that are quite as great anything the
4
rope, give me the north in winter, and II
must go south it shall be in the spring or
| summer, when Italy is enjoying it's normal
| temperature, and when people know how to
| prepare for it, From Florence, over the
| Brerner Pass. through the Austrian TyrOl
| ana Germany to Copenhagen. Is the part
| Of the journey with which this article has
| to do.
| The Brenner is the lowest pass between
Italy and the north, and was not badly
| snow bound. though at the same time the
| Semmering Pass between Venice and Wen
| ma was impossible for many hours. But
! even in these lower attitudes the Alps
| unspeakably grand in winter-the snow
| clothing them from top to bottom, and
| leaving only the perpendicular escarpment
| of rock where it cannot lie. black and bare.
| which heightens the contrast and makes the
prevailing whiteness all the whittier.
| The TyrOleSe farmers in green hats, with
| a jaunty feather stuck in the back. slipping
| over the icy roads on high peaked runners
| turned up at the Prov and stern. added
touch of color to the wintry scene, and
locked even more picturesque than they do
| in summer. l was sorry to leave the great
! white hills behind. and come out on the
| plains Of Germany. But these plains were
| mostly passed in the night. and the morn
ing of the second day from Florence found
me in Berlin.
Berlin cannot boast of it's climate In Feb.
| ruary tperhaps It is not far enough north
| for that. but the spring comes early here.
and few weeks will work a marvellous
| change and charm in this city of the kaiser.
| But. rain or snow, sunshine or cloud. Berlin
! Is always interesting There is such abound
| ing life and vitality in all the great thor
| oEghfares: such an air of growth and vi
| vacity, and business enterprise. even in
| these hard times. that. .an American feels
particularly at home. and at once begins
! to tiEgle with sense Of familiar hustle
| and commercial life.
Phenomenal Growth.
| AS matter of fact. Berlin can rival al
| most any modern city in it's record of sud-
| den and phenomenal growth. In America
| We apt to preen our feathers in the
, belief that we have all the Chicagos and
! Seattles and Kansas Cities in the world.
but this is far from being true. ''Effete
Europe" has examples of growth almost
| as rapid and quite as substantial. and Ber-
| lin Is one of them. To be sure. 1t did not
| start with nothing fifty years ago, as did
| our own phenomenon of the pralries. and no
| historic cow kicked over kerosene lamn
| a quarter of a century ago. and compelled
| the good burghers of Berlin to rebuild their
city from the smouldering ruins. Neverthe-
| less, though Berlin dates small and un-
important city from ancient times, its ex..
| pansion. Its growth, its greatness are all
| modern. It fs essentially a twentieth CEN
tury city. with the excellencies and thu
| defects, the virtues and the wickedness OF
| it's time. 1t exceis in all of them. ! wish
| could say that l believe the feeling of
the Germans to the Anglo-Saxons. both IN
| tho new world and the o.d. is friendly or
! growing more friendly. Not that there IS
| any violent antipathy toward Anne rica and
| Americans. as there is toward England and
| the English. To many individual American,
| an6. English people the spirit is most cor
| dial and even affectionate. but take 1t by
and large the average Teut0n. just now.
| cannot abide English ways. and as we speak
/ the same language. he does not sharply dis
| criminate. and Jumps all together as
| foes of the land OF the Hohenzollerns
| Besides. we are all tarred with the same
| brush OF commercial rivalry. and our tarifr
i exactfons make us even more offensive In
| some ways than the British. Hut. unl1oubt--
i edly, the Boer war Is the great reason for;
the renewed dislike of the Teutons to the