The courier., 1902-09-06
THE RE
FASHION

a cascade manner, but very fiat; the
lower rufiie actually spreads out in
flare. 1t need not be lined, and in
many Of the best new gowns the
fiounce is entirely unlined. falling in
a much more graceful manner.
Skirts will be so extremely numerous
as to inches that 1t will be difficult to
walk i'm them and they will require
practice preliminary to a promenade.
Dinner and evening gowns are pecul-
iarly mentioned in this regard. for they
actually train in front, while in the
back they approach a yard in length.
The court train is not ''in," but there
is a close approach to 1t in the gowns
that are making their appearance.
If the skirt is held up properly it will
not be so very hard on the woman
who wears II, for the fashionable lift
it very high and the skirt can be raised
eight to ten inches and held up in both
hands. This lift requires practice also,
but once learned 1t is very pretty. The
drop skirt, which is prettily trimmed.
falls below 1t and looks like a dress
skirt.
The princess skirt is much worn, but
is unfortunately not becoming to all.
This skirt, as you know, is the one
that, instead of being belted in the or
continued upward and bustward and is
stopped abruptly just about at the
bust line, perhaps a little below.
With the long skirt there comes the
fancy for the long back line, and the
appearance of the fashionable woman,
ing her from belt to hem, is that of
height. Nothing lifts your inches like
the long skirt, and, If you select the
straight back, with its long middle
seam, or the back sash with its long
ribbons, you heighten and accentuate
this appearance
In their general outlines gowns re-
main the same, but trimmings are un-
dergoing changes, and even the skirts
are affected by them, though skirts are
usually the last to change.
The straight back effect is one for
which all are striving and to obtain it
trimmings are worn upon the front,
but not upon the back.
The severe, unbroken line, coming
from the belt right out to the end of
the train, is called the seasons line of
beauty and you must seek it if you
would have your new gown a decided
success.
The Viennese pedestrian skirt is a
new thing. 1t grazes the ground and is
trimmed with strapped bands of silk;
the waist is silk shirt and the coat
is a three-Quarter silk coat. Silk has
become such a utilitarian material that
you can combine it with serge and
still preserve the proprieties.
The old silks are at some disad-
vantage compared to the new because
they have no cry in them. The cry
of silks is something very highly priced
these days. Perhaps you call it the
rustic, but by whatever name ii goes
it must be distinctly heard. My lady
with her soft crumple of laces and her
frou-frou of silks must be distinctly
heard even before she is seen, and to
carry around with you this cry" is
one of the things which marks the
fine dresser.
OF etamine as a fall goods one might
say a great deal for the new etamine
is very brilliant and almost satiny in
luster and novelties are promised in
this line.
A lovely style, worn not long ago by
Mrs. Charles Dana Gibson, showed the
Empire mode, conventionalized. 1t was
in the form Of dinner gown, in violet
satin cloth, with the round neck out
lined with q wide lace collar. A dog