Bisbee daily review., 1902-09-06

tiny buttons bearing a widely meshed canvass collar trimmed with embroid- cry grass lawn is striking both on ac- count of it's quiet elegance and incon- gruous combination.
 The sleeve question will be one or the vexatious problems Of autumn fashion. At present there is going on a battle royal between the bell and the bishop. The bishop, with tight tuck ed top. a baggy base and tight whist let which all suggests an inverted leg o-mutton is ideal for light weight ma terials. while the bell holds sway in fabrics of a "tailory" nature. where the baggy bishop shape would be unfit and too voluminous.
 Then some very novel effects in otIer shapes are seen among the ad- vance models. For instance, the sleeves on the bodice of a voile and changeable taffeta costume have a triple fold at the elbow. caught up by a strap and button. and an undersleeve of mouseline and lace. The skirt IS of the voile in delightful shade or greyish- green and it is accordion plaites. At the foot is deep insertion of embroidered guipure.
 The basqued-bodice has box plain on either side of the front, and em- broidered straps fastened with fancy buttons across a rabat' of mouseline de soie edged with lace.
 The new shade of greyish-green used in this toilette is very effective. The grey tints modify the green and lend it a softness seldom found in this color.
 Plain grey is always fashionable and never was it designed to be worn to greater advantage than this year. There is a new electric tint that IS winning much favor; it is very soft and sympathetic when used as back ground for livilier tints. The skirt of a gown in this color is supplied with a yoke at the sides and back and each seam described a plait. The entire creation is developed in berege, which will be greatly worn.
 The bodice is very pretty. It has simulated bolero of applique lace which is arrangel in points in front. where a little vest of plisse coralpink mousseline is set in. The buipure is also applied over coral-pink and soft bow of the same color is placed at the front.
 The sleeves are bishop shape with the fitness held in at the shoulder un- der yokelet of the guipure. The wristlet is also of the lace and the opening is marked with silken tassel of coral-pink.
 Boas are too elegant for mere words to describe and their beauty can only be appreciated with the eye. The flat boa is undoubtedly the most fashiona- ble shape. Sometimes it is just a soft fluff of ostrich and marabout feather fronds. these in some clever way wo- ven into fabric. or else it is covered with small tulle frills running across from edge to edge. In the new nat ruffie the prettiest trifle that has yet been shown is formed of white silk Chantilly ring net with black Chantilly applications About four frills go to the ruffle. and, of course. long ends; but the topmost frill is adorned with an edge and application of the black Chantilly. These applications also oc- cur on the ends of the two long full stoles of the net.
 The prevailing tone of autumn fab rics is dark, althoug there are many suggestions of white. In the cloths, specklings or rough Things of white on a dark ground or of black or me dium color vie with the cambine furry effects obtained by the intervening of Angora wool.
 Such combinations suggest samers hairs which are prime favorites for out door wear These are specially chic when dotted in self color Sibe- lines are silkier and fienr than ever A upncr,ol ooronirpo rod 1iho1ino comos this autumn so flecked with fine. silky white hairs that it has al- most the bloom of the geranium pet als. The newest reds are seldom crude or aggressively vivid. They take the poppy. geranium, or fruit tints and the autumn leaf red is the most charming of them all.
 Shirt waists to match skirts will be fashionable for another season, and while the autumn separate waists are more. elaborate than the shirt waist effects of the summer. the general idea is the same.
 Just now when the summer girl is returning from mountain and seashore and is anxious to hide her coat of freckles and tan, wells are the most distinguishing features of the small belongings of dress. About the most surprising fact in connection with the popularity of veils is the number that can be worn with any one hat and by any one woman. To begin with there is the inevitable veil of dotted mesh. over which is worn another of chiffon, dotted or figured in soLse othef pretty way. The complexion veils are cer- tainly very desirable. They are moot ly white and the figure in black is more delicately traced it would seem,