New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1902-06-11
PICTURESQUE SPAIN.
OPENING FOR NEW LINES OF AMERICAN
TOURIST TRAVEL-BURGoS AND
ITS GLORIOUS CATHEDRAL.
Burgos, May %.

he
spain from economic ruin. What can they do
- aid q brave fee, who was defeated in hope
lass struggle with superior power? The special
ambassador from the United States. Dr. Curry,
10 * 2 sincere and earnest friend of Spain,
,.e suggested in converse ton with me the nego-
station Of g reciprocity treaty on the most IA
..c-able terms for the historic peninsula. He
has also expressed the opinion that a general
-a5uction Of the Spanish tariff, in the direction
~ free trade, would be of incalculable benefit
., stimulating the industrial revival Of the coun-
-. 7 do not suppose that there is any i'm
-,n5iate prospect for reciprocity in the trade re-
rations OF the United States and Spain, and GER
+sinlv there is no evidence that the Madrid Gov
.rnuent contenaplates the reduction Of the tariff
:. +ba free trade level. A complete reform OF
-s+o-7s administration would be most helpful,
br+ II is doubtful If any good result would fol-
Inv the opening Of Spanish ports 10 foreign mer-
,beadfse in close approach 10 free trade. Spain,
having lost her colonies and the bulk Of her
foreign trade. is dependent upon her own re-
so77rces The retention OF the home market for
her own industries and manufactures is indis-
,ensable. II the home market were raided by
.oreigue-s without let or hindrance. the vigorous
Industries Of the Catalan provinces would he
-srslvzed, and there would be less employment
s,- workers Of every class. Il IS not necessary.
noTTz 2
cal, m BE- dogruatic in regard TO Spain Dis
cassion Of the subject IS futile, since the eN-
rsr;rnent Of reducing the Spanish tariff to the
Ise Of free trade IS roC likely to be tried either
g. this generation or il the next
nractieal method OF rendering assistance and
e,couragemeut TO Spain is the development OF
+orrist travel or large scale. American pros
-,s-i+v il shared with European countries year
e4,ar year when from $50 900 70 200ooo travel
lars make the rounds Of the Continent spain
has received q smaller portion Of this bounty
,han other European countries. yet there is no
lack Of attraction here for lovers OF the pct
uresque and the bizarre Spain is most IN
+s,astirr and beautiful country, and full Of fas-
cingt;on and charm for jaded tourists Unlike
Germany. Il has not been modernized, recon-
s+-ucra5 and converted into a swarning in
5ps+riaI hive Il bears she impress Of the Moor
ssh conolest n it's labyrinthine tangles OF
walled lanes and blind alleys. and in its home
life centred ii the inner courts and gardens OF
houses with arcades and glass covered galleries
While not without strongly marked indiTldu-
atty in its art especially in the works Of Nelas-
ouez and in MuriIlo's TRANSACTIONS OF religious
life into popular dialect, it is museum OF Moor
ish decoration French mediaavalism and Italian
ana Flemish tombs. statuary, carvings and re-
tablos. Isolated by lofty mountains and the
seas from more progressive European countries
end shut Of from the workaday world by its
reactionary administrative policies, Spain has
retained the primitive qualities Of the home soil
IF i+s architectural remains are imported
-nnsaic Of medieval limitations. the movement
Of the national life has been true TO Spanish
nature L is z country with a wide range OF
variety in scenery and art, and the towns are
essentially unlike. Workaday Barcelona, grim
Toledo pleasure loving Madrid. silent Cordova,
Moorish Granada, dreamy Seville, and bleak.
windswept Burgos are cities rivalling one an
other in picturesqueness. but each with charac-
teristic qualities Of its own. There is no other
circuit Of European travel from which American
tourists can derive as much pleasure and varied
entertainment.
Quaint and primitive is this old Castilian town
Of Burgos with its ruined castle on a barren
hill its ornate cathedral in hollow, its neglect
ed central plaza with crumbling arcades' It's
lowered gateways and ancient bridges. its
6ilapidated churches and nonasteries, its silent
promenades and medieval houses, its swarns
Of teggars and nuIeteers. its donkeys with water
Jars and frewood, its groups Of washerwomen
IN the bed of the sluggish stream and It's Old
World aspect Of reverence for the musty past
So picturesque a town, like gaunt, fierce looking
Toledo. is treasure trove for travellers Of re-
Hnement and Of sensibility- II is effective
study Of strongly marked contrasts, with mar
velous deIicacy il the carving and tracery OF the
cathedral with which French and Flemish ar
chtects and scuIptors enriched and perfected
symmetrical design, and with coarse and Prini-
tive street scenes fairly medieval in spirit and
setting. II is glimpse Of old Spain which can
not fail 10 fascnate the visitor, even if he fingers
IN the town only for few hours, as have done
for the sake OF breaking the long journey to
Paris. In Germany and other Continental coun-
tries the memorials of the past may be kept in
excellent repair, and not infrequently elaborated
and restored with excess Of zeal; but the en-
vironrent has been transformed TO meet the
requirements OF modern life and industry In
Spanish towns like Burgos neither the scenic
setting nor the manner OF life has been changed
The herds Of goats and the peasants with their
water Jars are IN keeping with the Virgins in
inches OF gray walls and with the angels stand
ing guard over alabaster saints in the tombs OF
the churches; and among the stately houses Of
the ancient noblesse with their friezes, arcades,
finals and gargoyles. one looks instinctively
among the black eyed beggars for the triumphant
ca riding among his lancers from his village
birthplace. with the promise of the potency Of
6eltyegance from the Moors.
There IS the artistic as well as the picturesque
side OF Spanish treasure trove. The Cathedral
o. BUrgos. begun with the primitive simplicity
ana dignity OF the early Gothlc was continued
with fully developed French taste for orna-
snentstion and complicated tracery, and COM
pleted with Flemish Iightness of touch in the
fvetted spires and graceful lantern. Like other
Spanish cathedraIs il suffers from the removal
Of the choir from the sanctuary to the nave,
where Il IS inelosed on three sides-an interior
chapel deliberately sculptured and framed by
TIE aisles, and the chapeis radating from the
apse. The unity Of the original impressive
scheme is impaired in this way. but the ca
thedral remains a magnificent example of