The daily morning journal and courier., 1902-07-10
GREEN FOLIAGE ON HATS.
NEW WEDDING TOILETTES--.
 DRESSY FOUL4RDS.
Gowns of Point d'EsprIt-shaped
 FIounees Ont

 much in evidence this season. Such a pretty walking hat was worn in the Bois the other afternoons burre col- ored straw. with the rolling turbanlike brim trimmed with band of green vel vet and two short green ostrich ties falling down in a broken circle on the hair behind. Another pretty straw of the Marquis shape was trimmed with green foliage and many knots of black velvet ribbon.
 The spring events, the Fete des Fleurs, the Auteuil steeplechase and the Grand Prix has probably had the cold est and wettest May and June ever kndwn, and lot of the beautiful cos tunes the dressmakers have prepared have languished in dark wardrobes. The cold weather has made the voile and light cloths hang on, and has natu- rally been responsible for good many ideas in this style of gown. At Au- teuid charming gown was made Of a snuff colored yelling, the skirt laid in the hollow radiator pleats that are so popular now. On the bottom of the skirt was a deep band of Irish guipure, finished. top and bottom. with several lines of black velvet ribbon. The blouse was half-covered by deep collar of Irish lace, inset with madallions of pale pink linen, embroidered with pink and white cotton, and this was attached by jabots of tiny, black ribbon loops. A lace cuff, narrow at the wrist and far ing in deep points toward the elbows, held the fullness of the sleeve, which was laid in tucks at the top. The lace cuffs were trimmed with lines of black velvet.
 The dressmakers are giving great at- tention to all kinds of white gowns; in- deed, there are some places which are making a speciality of what they call lingerie" gowns and make no others. Gowns of white English embroidery are very nodish. There is nothing in better style than these gowns, which are gen. erally trimmed in addition with deep and narrow faces.
 Gowns of white linen batiste are as dainty as can be, trimmed with barbs and f1ounces of Irish lace. One elabo- rate example of this style of gown has barbs of different sizes and widths run ming up the skirt, in some cases to the waistband. The full blouse is graceful Iy tucked in up and down" lines, and has a deep, fichu-like collar of lawn and Irish lace. A similar fiounce fin- ishes the elbow sleeves, which are laid in up and down" lines of tucking.
 For dressy gowns there seems no material more modish than point d'es- brit. This is used for entire gowns or for supporting foundation to lace. large number of lace suffies is mounted over fiounces of this material. It is these extra touches that make gowns so expensive now. Point d'esprit, howev- CT, is a material that wears well and does not crush easily; it is far more practical than mousseline de soie.
 A lovely costume has skirt of point desprit, trimmed some distance from the hem with a lattice work of white taffeta bands, on which is mounted lot of tiny pompon roses of pink rilousseline de soie. This is a novel and fashionable form Of trimming. which seems odd, however, on high necked gown that may be worn in the open air. The coat is of white taffeta silk, heav- ily incrusted with guipure. Probably more than half the garment is of lace. The under blouse is of lace over pink with pink silk sash.
 A dainty gown of gray crepe has both the skirt and the Louis XIV coat laid in small pleats. The skirt is trimmed with two rows of wide Cluny lace, dyed gray, and arranged to make medallions about figures of deep yellow lace, The effect of the gray and yellow lace is original. The pleated jacket has the pleats let out oyer the hips to make full hip pieces, that are trimmed with ap- p1ications of the gray lace, and the sleeves are finished by @ similar flounce at the elbows. The coat closes to the wait with revers made of the gray and yellow lace, matching the trimming on the skirt. There is a belt of gray panne run through lace straps.
 But little gray is being worn at pres- ent. The tendency seems to be to use either white and pale shades of yellow or else vivid colors. One sees lot of deep blue, red and green. This same idea will prevail during the season at the shore. There will be white gowns galore, from the simplest morning gown of English embroidery to the most ela- borate creation of lace and mousseline de soie and point d'esprit. There will also be tailored suits in white cloth, serge and mohair. but in contrast to these will be gay muslins and linens in deep cerise, blue and violet.
 Many of the foulards in which there is white are trimmed with stitched straps of white taffeta. They have a pretty, severe air that is interesting. Very novel is black and white foulard made up in the form of a tunic cut out at the bottom in a leaf pattern that hangs over an underskirt covered with rows of leaves of white English en- broidery, with black embroidered cen- ters. The entire elbow sleeves and deep collar are also made of the en- broidery. This costume was worn, with long white gloves and black lace hat loaded with black feathers, at the Island club one afternoon. There was alsa a marvellous costume of pale blue l muslin, painted with foliage and cher | ries and inset with lace. The jacket I was also entirely of lace, with deep col ! lar and underfiounces to the sleeves of I the painted mousselne.
 A pretty recent wedding at the Made l leine brought out some lovely toilets. The boas worn were particularly lovely, l