The Washington times., 1902-08-18

JGUST l8. 1902.
orders as security. As he will not be
| under an expense even approaching that
incurred by the larger manufacturer
who has TO pay large salaries to de-
sianers and cutters. he is able to under
sell him to a considerable degree. The
/ result CT this has been that many of the
/ larger cloak manufacturers have been
either driven OFT of the business or have
/ opened retail stores for the sale of their
! own manufacture
Foreign Labor a Menace.
Of the workers in this branch of the in
dustry than in the branch which has 10
do with the manufacture of mems cloth
ing. but, nevertheless, large number
CT immigrants have entered it. depress-
ing the wages 20 a considerable extent.
During The las decade shops employing
Polish and Bohemian women have been
started by contractors in Chicago. The
women have almost entirely displaced
the lner OF all the cheaper grades o.:
.
the wages paid the men
The cloGkmafers have been organ
lied with mere or less success since
1854.
Women Earn Good Wages.
Another branch OF the industry that
he former contractors have taken up is
the making OF wcmcn's suits. the manu-
iacture of which has increased to large
extent during the last ten years. In this
industry the garments are also made in
different shops: thus the waists are
made in ore place aad the skirts in an
ether. Shirt waists are generally made
in larger shops. rs is alsofadies UNDER
wear. The shi-t-waist workers, who are
generally women. wort, in sets. As a
rule it takes ten persons TO produce the
waists in ,he factories Seven machine
operators make different parts, ore girl
se,rs Gu the buttons. orc makes the hut
tcrholcs. and enc irons the waists. These
women earn between s. and S13 per
week of Gly-fve and one-half to fifty
nino hours
The price paid for the making OF
cloaks varies. cf-course. considerably,
depending upon the quality Of the goods.
The examiner and the cutter receive on
an average SIS per week each; the oper
ator en- medium grades gets from 81 per
cloak upward, or which he must pay the
hni5her % cents; the presser gets s
cents. tae button sewer 20 cents per
hundred. and tee 5uttonhole maker SO
cents per hundred The latter must sup
ply his own machine ard material.
Furnishes Ali Trimmings.
When the contractor receives 10
cents for the making of lady's skirt
he must supply silk. thread. rent of
shop. expressage, etc; the operator re-
caives % cents, the baster 10 cents. the |
Hnisher 10 cents. and the presser IL
cents.
IN the manufacture CT women's cloth /
ing. as in the other main branch of the .
industry, artificial power gained ,consid-
erabie ground during the decade. In al
most all factories for shirt waists and
underwear steam. or electric power is
now used. OF 1924 establishments in
1890. only 13S. or 11.3 per cent. used
power having AS horsepower.
In 1860. out Of 2,701 establishments. not
less than 979. or 36.2 per cent, used
power, having 1925 horsepower The
average horsepower per establishment
was 10. in 1890. and 1914 in 1900.
Taking tho manufacture of ready
made clothing for men, women and
children as whole, there has been a
change for the better dur
ing the latter part of the last decade
but as long as it remains an industry
which is carried on to a large extent
by the contracting system, there can be
20 certainty that the improvements will
be Of lasting character. The remedies
y hich have proven themselves most eff
'ective have been strict factory and
license laws"