The Jersey City news., 1902-09-23

and contrasting the prim fashions of old
en- times with the more sensible dress
and customs of the present day. Wha'
discomforts the young beauties of the
past had to endured
Think of wearing a velvet mask oven
the face to protect the complexion from
the sun and wind when taking stroll
in a garden. Imagine being encased III
a heavy steel corset like a box with
hinges at the sides. To prevent girls
from STOPPING long needle was some
times placed in front of the dress at one
/ side of the neck of the gown. When ouI
great-grandmothers were girls they sal
with boards strapped on their backs in
order to make them hold themselves
straight, says Priscilla Wakefield in
"'rse Delineator" As to athletics, such
things did not exist for girls. How dull
! ,-.ys must have been when there was
no tennis, when rowing was not consider
| ed ''ladylil1e,'' when even the mild game
of croquet had not been invented, and
the mere mention of golf for girls would
have been thought improper!
Is it not a pleasure to live in a period
when sensible dress is worn and when
outdoor sports and amusements are a
part of every healthy girls life? What
would our staid ancestors say of they
could see their fair descendants riding
bicycles, swinging golf clubs or plunging
| into the sea for q swim?
| The ideas of our ancestors were very
narrow, no doubt, but these good people
had characteristics which l think we
should copy and cultivate. If they were
shy and had a fine reticence, that is no
reason why their descendants should
scorn modest manners. Refinement is
not old-fashioned and never will be.
Girls are apt to go in for extremes in
these days, thinking they show indepen-
dence in that way. 1 have no intention
Of making this paragraph series of
''dont's," but 1 would suggest that the
prettiest girl loses more than half of her
charm if she adopt a staggering walk,
or a loud voice, or if she lounges on a
bench in bathing dress.
| Nothing looks smarter as a trimming
on white than the deep ecru grass lawn
or yak laces, but there is a strong feel
| ing for bands of the old fashioned wool
crewel work, used for wreaths OF sprays
| of flowers in softly toned natural colors.
| A pretty instance was a coarse cream
serge, with a zig-zag band of woodwork
around the skirt, representing hops in
| their pale green shades, thrown into relief
| by the darker green of the leaves; the
bodies of coarse guipure, tight fitting. had
two broad brace bands coming from
either shoulder to meet the skirt at the
| waist. worked with the embroidery, while
| down the centre of the lace bodice was a
narrow pleated vest of white chiffon, the
| tucks held down by two closely set rows
| of green enamel buttons. The skirt being
cut corselet fashion, the points Of the
| back came high up almost to the shout
ders behind.
| For outdoor school petticoats, black
| brilliantine lined with lightweight scarlet
flannel is a dominant material with win
ter skirts, which are made in narrow
cores and trimmed at the bottom with
corded or tucked founces.
Indoor petticoats are better in thinner,
unlined textures, and good materials for
| these are the black and colored glorias
| seen ON all sides.
| Few petticoats are seen with the yokes
once considered essential for a trim fit.
! The tops of all the new ones are gored
| sharply into the figure, the front and
sides fitting without a wrinkle; the back
| breadths are drawn in with ribbons run
| through shirrings. This may not seem
| important information, but upon such
| trifies hang all the laws of the prophets
of fashion. When you get the petit
coat on you will see the value of this
small seed by the wayside, which | trust
| may not fall on stony ground. The pet
| ticoats gored to the waist hang properly,
and those suspended from yokes do not.
| Close on the heels of the autumn tailor
gowns come the furs of the new season,
and furs form an item of all wardrobes
prepared for the fall house party season.
The furriers are showing host of fasci-
mating things. The cape and cape collar
so evident in cloth, lace, etc, are, of
course, prominent among fur modes, and
| call into service all of the Gne, short hair
| flexible furs. Ermine is having a tre-
mendous vogue, partly because of the
coronation boom, partly because of the
| unfiagging fad for black and white, and
| partly because it is easily worked into
the newest models. 1t is seen in capcs,
cape collars, long luxurious cloaks, em-
pire scarfs, stoles, mufs and gown trim
mings, and the woman who buys it for
J the coming winter will make no mistake.
! Chinchilla, seal and baby lamb are also
prime favorites, and it is said that beaver
and otter win gain new popularity.
| Cotton Oriental Iiandkerchiefs are used
to make shirt waists and they are charm-
| ing if a little pronounced. They are sell
J ing-the few of them left-uptown just
now for 81 apiece. They are all 36 in
size, and there is one objection for the
| long armed woman, the sleeves will be
elbow sleeves on her. The handkerchief
I square does not allow of their being