The Press. (Stafford Springs, Conn.) 1883-1935, 1902-01-16
IN THE CAR KITCHEN
SNUG MANNER IN WHICH EATA6LES
ARE SLOWED AWAY.


Methods by which Stores Are Re-
plenished which Give Out En-
Route-The Room For the Walters.
The Cooks and Their Work.
The actual standing room In the car
kitchen consists Of an aisle only wide
enough for two men to pass each other
and about fifteen feet long. On one
side is an unbroken row Of ranges, the
very best sort invented, for when men
do women's work they are not content
with makeshift tools. On the other
side is steam table for keeping things
hot, other tables and some Of the re-
frigerators, for there are many. Hot
water and cold is held In cylinders
which lie along the ceiling and look
like the projectiles used on torpedo
boats.
One refrigerator Is devoted exclusive
ly to fish, which lie shining on blocks
of clear ice as tempting as In any fish
market. Until had actually seen this
refrigerator it had been my practice to
refuse fish in travelling, feeling there
was some mystery about it's preserva-
tion, but now-indeed, no such thing.
had fancied the whole menu cooked at
once in enormous quantities, like a sol
diers' mess at camp. and my fastidious
car appetite had revolted and faded
away during the first course, but now
l eat with relish, knowing the condi-
ton Of the source of supply.
Another refrigerator Is entirely for
kneats and game, another for fruit. and
even bread and cake are kept in a re-
frigerator that they retain their mois-
ture. Outside the kitchen there is a
sacred icebox under lock and key, and
no man may put his hand therein ex-
cept the steward or housekeeper of the
dining car. There twenty-five kinds of
wine are kept, and there will be shown
to you, with manner awed but proud,
the royal family Of champagne with
cool, gold crowned heads sitting on an
icy throne.
But. to go back to the kitchen. that
apartment is occupied by three men
dAA al " "AitC, Will pCL LuupS u OAuC SOI-
don for traditions sake. who serve
deftly and capably the hiveful Of wait
ers that swarm at the open square at
the inner end Of the room. 1t is a
wise provision that prevents close con-
facts, for cooks are apt to be ''redhot"
at the crucial hour of dinner serving
and, besides. the car kitchen can con-
tain no more men than the three cooks
who broil. roast. stew and fry the
numberless fancies Of the patrons pal
ates. These men work hard. The
head cook. whose salary is about $40
per month, stands farthest from the
window where the walters clamor and
is a bit more serious. The middle
cook, on $45 salary, is lively or sub
missive according to the man he ad-
dresses. and the end cook finds time
to chaff the owners of the dark faces
who call orders. and sometimes he
sings as happily as conceited boy
who fancies his future on the operatic
stage.
These three men make up the white
capped trio we see peering out Of the
windows of the dining car as it slips
into the station. All the other en-
ployees Of the train come into contact
with passengers and have interesting
experiences, but these are confined in
the galley and are eager for scant
glimpses at the station. Sometimes
the car has little balcony at the end,
where they can escape the heat OF
| their quarters, needed relief in sum-
mer time.
The walters have q pantry adjoining
the kitchen and opening into it only
by the little square window with a
counter on either side. When your or
der is given and the waiter disappears,
this is where he has gone. Here are
kept supplies Of dishes and silver. and
here 1t Is the waiter makes up the
dishes Of cakes. fruit and cheese you
call for with which to tie up the ends
Of your appetite.
Before the dining car is drawn away
from the caryards the special house
keeper who has it In charge must see
that every sort of supply is on hand
and in sufficient, but not too lavish,
| quantity. Sometimes there are ninety
persons to feed, sometimes 0ne-third
that number, but the probab bic number
on the various runs 10 known. In long
| journeys there are c0mmissary sta
tions along the way where the car may
be restocked. but this Is seldom neces-
sary except with such perishables as
cream and milk Have you ever heard
porter agitating that subject with
station employees at Buffalo or else
where? That means the emergency
has arisen In the dining car. Such
things might easily happen In larder
where demands are irregular and mar
kets scores Of miles away. 1t is q won
der they do not happen oftener when
| we reflect that economy in perishable
things Is exacted from the steward
housekeeper.
Just before he sends his black CONE
missary to announce dinner to the hum
gering passengers every man slips on
jacket and apron Of, whitest Linen and
by. this little act Of costuming lie. con-
verted at once from the nondescript
man OF the streets ints tha most spruce