The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-07-05

narrow as scarcely 10 be noticeable, and
in no way interfere with the transparent
effect. Fancy lace stitches are a craze.
The pretty novel stocks that can be devised
when one has time 10 do such work are
without number. Just now there is a craze
for beads. Narrow bands so studded and
held with faggoting are both fashionable
and becoming. Two particularly pretty
ones recently seen are one black with tur-
quoise beads. one white with coral. In
both Instances the stitching is executed
with gold thread. Embroidery that hints
OF the Orient has great vogue among the
smartest women and Is capable or much
development. Genuine Bulgarian work is
made into fascinating stocks and bands and
used with linen and pOngee gowns, but
equally effective things are lone by dress
makers and can be copied by any woman
who is a bit deft. Some Of the latest
Partisan suits include tiny coats whose col
lars and revers are OF simple linen or pique
embroidered with cOttons whose colors are
suggested by the Eastern work, and which
are a delight. Stocks and other removable
accessories can be made in the same way
and Instantly give an exclusive touch 10
the gown. IS a rule the work itself is sim
pie. Much OF il resembles cross stitch, and
not a few OF the imported gowns have been
so worked over canvas, the threads being
pulled out when the work is done. When
the Bulgarian patterns are difficult to OBJ
tain or seem difficult the simple German
and Russian designs can be used. So long
as the cOlOrs chosen are right and the COM
binations we'll handled the effect is sure TO
be good. What the French call fade colors
are always safe, but brilliant effects can
be obtained by using brighter hues If the
worker possess an artists soul. \ gown
of any quiet tone, the jacket or blouse en-
riched by such embroidery, becomes chic
at once, while removable collars. Jokes and
the like might be suggested by the score.
PASSING OF THE BOA.
Paris is weary of the boa. In it's stead
French women are wearing most bewitch-
ing little rUffles or pelerine capes, and
many designs Of the sort are to be seen on
this side of the sea. When chiffon and lace
made into boas began to be worn with
cotton shirt waists it was easy TO predict
their early downfall. These newer capes.
ruffles or pelerines are more distinctly
wraps, albeit tiny ones, and as yet show
no sign of overpOpularity. Most fascinat-
ing ones combine lace with chiffon or net.
and are becoming In the extreme; A charm
ing example is in deep cream Lierre lace
combined with white chiffon. The cape
portion consists of three overlapping plisse
frills of the chiffon. Failing over it is the
wide lace, which is simply full, but is ex-
tended to form fchu ends that fall to the
hem of the skirt. Similar ones are seen in
black and are, perhaps, more serviceable,
but the dainty white has a distinct sum-
mer charm. Less delicate rufies are of
point d'esprit edged with velvet ribbon
and either plisse or gathered, and Others,
again, are of chiffon. ribbon or velvet
trimmed. They all turn away from the
throat, forming VS. when closed, and fall
well over the shoulders so that. hlmy as
the materials are, they mean Just the pro-
lection oftenest demanded on a summer
day. l have told you in previous letters
that capes Of various sorts are coming
and that a few are already here. These
lovely little peler1ne wraps that are sup
planting the boa may fairly be taken as
fOreTunners of the heavier shoulder capes
that, If L mistake not, Will come with the
fall.
Garnitures, belts and belt clasps are
fairly bewitching in their variety and nov
city. One Of the latest whims Is peculiarly
effective with muslin gowns and admits of
a certain welcome individuality in the
blending of color. Girdles or belts of soft
est ribbon are being made in the form of
plait of three strands and terminate at the
back in big loose chOuX. Single colors are
seen and are pretty, but the loveliest by
far combine such delicate dainty tints as
pale blue and pink. yellow and white, and
give a certain opalescent effect. Four or
hve-inch ribbon Is used, and five yards
make a girdle. At the front 1t is drawn
down to form the ubiquitous point. but,
being pliable, does not require to be shaped.
With them are seen accompanying hair
garnitures. but, to my taste, these are
heavy and not generally becoming. Pret-
white. yellow and pink chiffon and the
delicate bows of white and cream lace.
The buds are far from realistic. and are
better for that fact. but suggest the rose
form and are exquisitely delicate. Ribbon
is made 10 do a number of seemingly i'm
possible things Bunches that closely re-
III lie tnGCA u NlOlelS eli WdSSe are
displayed and some marvelously realistic
callas with petals of white, stamens OF
yellow and leaves OF green satin ribbon
that make attractive corsage trimming for
white gowns
NEW DESIGNS IN BELTS.
Belts are all things and are held by
clasps that are works of art. One of the
latest novelties is red copper with silver
and the clasps and buckles shown are rare
in color nc thpV ara in dpaiCp All cf1oc
seem 10 be in vogue. Many of these
buckles are large, others again are small
and so it is with materials of all sorts.
Those of pure gold are beautiful as must
always be the case, but the newer designs
are found in oxidized silver. in the copper
and in Oriental metals. One most beautiful
clapS Is OF the silver set with almundineS,
another is of the metal with fresh water
pearls, and others again show opals and
amethyStS mounted most artlstically. 1t is
not alone the worth or beauty of the jewel
that attracts, but that of the design as
well. While seeking for the new, our best
manufacturers refuse to consider merely
the bizarre, and the results are the more
satisfactory for the fact. In belt pins,
horse shoes and c~rescents take the head.
Whether the designs be executed III
diamonds or in gun metal these forms APP
pear and are favorites. Costly examples
are of pearls or of other precious stones,
but exceedingly effective ones are TO be
found in gun metal and in silver, but plain
and set with semi-precious stones.
Bags, both those worn en- chatelaine and
those carried in the hand are In great
demand and show many attractive forms.
Quite the smarteSt are In bead work, and
before closing / want to give you a hint
for practical piazza work. The bags them
selves are some knitted, some worked on
canvas in dear. quaint floral designs. The
patterns, or similar ones can be found In
any work given over to German cross
stitch and the work is not more exacting
than that bestowed on many less worthy
objects. Those made with fitted tops mean
inevitable cost. but / have seen some new
ones that obviate this feature yet are ex-
ceedingly handsome and in the height OF
style. The bag makes one piece, the top
about one and a half or two inches wide,
another. When both are complete they are
joined by small rings of silver or gold and
through these rings is passed the chain
that draws the bag together and by means
of which IL is carried. AS 1 saw them, Of
fered by an exclusive dealer, they mean a
big sum, but the cost of the materials can
not be excessive and the labor brings a sure
reward. MAY MANTON.
Pensions for Veterans.