The Indianapolis journal., 1902-11-01

and texture. The design. however, is one
that might well be made TO serve for many
things Flowored silk would take the place
lovely embroidered crepes de chine. while
the entire under gown might, with
good results, be made either OF
crepe or of louisine silk AS pretty
a gown as any that have been shown
is OF blue louisine and is trimmed
with cream linen lace and black and white
ribbon. Lace medallions are set In the
is edged with applique Lace or chiffon
makes the chemisette worn within the open
square and narrow black and white rib
bons. held by tiny jeweled buckles. are ar
ranged to outline and define the full soft
front.
SOME ELABORATE GOWNS.
Entire gowns of lace over chiffon are seen
and are elegant. but general preference ap-
pears to be given chiffon and liberty. per-
ishable as they are. A most beautiful gown
in pale blue is of chiffon over liberty satin,
and is combined with Breton and linen
guipure lace in an elaborate fashion. The
lower portion of the skirt is finished with
hem and five-inch tucks. above which is
an inset of the guipure edged by appiques
OF the more delicate lace. The neck Is
square at the front, where there is a scarf
drapery, and over the full gown is a long
pointed jacket of Breton lace finished with
elbow length, cut in deep points, and fall
over under sleeves of the chiffon. Another
Is III Nile green and is combined with deep
the entire skirt Is plisse and is finished at
the lower edge with deep hem and wide
insertion of the lace. The waist portion
than the skirt, and over 1t is bolero all of
lace. AT the waist is deep e,irdle of cream
satin ribbon that ends in choux and long
ends at the left side, and over which the
pfff A
model in shell pink is of crepe de chine and
somewhat more durable without loss Of
delicate beauty, to my eye at least Chiffon
Is simply delight to the eye when fresh.
but so soon becomes unsightly that its ex-
travagance is even greater than its first
cost suggests. This soft. clinging crepe is
finitely more usage. The lining is white
liberty satin, so that the color of the crepe
becomes scarcely more than a tinge. At
the lower edge is frill and above 1t are
groups OF tucks with insertion of Valen-
ciennes lace between for depth of one-half
yard. The front Is shirred at the square
neck for several inches and hangs free
from that point The back is arranged in
vatican plat that Is attached at the
neck. and over which falls the fichu collar
that drapes the shoulders and terminates in
ner at the front. The waist portion under
the plaft and extending to the front is a
mass OF tiny tucks with lace insertion. The
sleeves are the universal ones, soft. full
trimmed frills fall over the forearms. Fa-
vorite colors are pale blues pinks, greens
and white, but lavender yellow and all the
range OF lovely shades known to the dyer's
art are worn. In the tea gown should be
found all the hint of personality possible
and as nothing stamps the individuality
more surely than the well-chosen color no
law can be laid down.
Older women and women wearing mourn
ing wear either pure white without lace
or black chiffon over white. This last, right
ly handled, Is beautiful and gives a tender
gun-metal effect difi1cult to describe The
foundation must be white silk, but between
1t and the outer gown of black is an inter
one of white chiffon that serves to produce
the peculiar gray, and so renders the black
less somber without detracting from the
quiet effect. When worn for mourning no
lace Is used, tuclxs, frflls and stitching be-
Ing the only allowable trimming, but older
women who choose the combination for its
sobriety clone add Chantilly or guipure lace
galore. MAY MANTON.