The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-08-23
FIRST AUTUMN STYLES
THE COOL SUMNER BRINGS THOUGHT
OF THEM VERY EARLY.
Jackets and Coats, the First Matters
of Interest, Are of Many
Varieties.

NEW YORK Aug Z.-1n spite or the pre-
diction that the cool summer is to be COM
pensated for by intense September heat, the
lack Of present discomfort means an un-
usual interest in and a number of early
styles. While ali such are to be looked
upon with doubt by the wise woman and
caution should be the watchword of shrewd
buyers, many facts are to be CLEANED and
many hints are to be obtained Later
models will, doubtless. show many modifica-
lions and mayhap some radical change. but
tendencies can be relied upon and there are
many interesting features offered that are
we'll worthy of consideration.
That skirts are to be snugger and more
snug about the hips seems all too true.
Among a dozen early fall gowns not one
failed TO show the habit back, with little If
any ripple. Below the knees the flare re-
mains; is intensified, if such be the
case, but the upper portions of the new
models are gultless of fold, ripple plat or
fullness of any sort. In some instances cir
cular f1ounces are scanned to the lower
edges, in others plaits are used to produce
the fullness, but even when these extend for
full length they are stitched fat and cut
away at the under portions as to mean no
additional thickness about the hips, even
while they fall in ripping folds at f1ounce
depth. So long as this feature of fullness
below the extreme snugness above remains
we may look for circular f1ounces, whatever
other styles are added to the list. The box
plaits, the side plaits and the fan plaits all
are in style and all are admirable rightly
used, but inasmuch as the flounce provides
| just the flare desired it is not likely to dis
| appear for some time to come. A few over
/ skirt effects are shown. 1t is far too early
to speak with authority. but let us trust
| that they will not gain any permanent hold.
Even on these wonderful wax ladies, who
| usually bear such marvellous dressing,
| they are far from attractive. AS yet | have
| seen none worn by human folk, but the
| prospect is not alluring. The double and
| triple fOunce skirts of this season have
had considerable vogue, but not even they
| recall visions of fashion plates two decades
! old and are distressing in the extreme.
| Long, graceful lines are what we have
| learned to look for and what give dignity to
| the figure.
OVERSKIRTS NOT PROBABLE
1t seems scarcely probable in view of these
facts that the overskirt with it's unfor-
tunate habit of cutting the figure and it's
most undesirable lines should succeed. By
far the most chic and effective gowns are
those made with long vertical lines that
enhance the apparent height. One exceed
ingly elegant cloth, in a soft mastic shade,
is box plated at both front and back, but
the plaits are stitched and cut away at
their upper portions and allowed to fall
| unconfined as they approach the lower.
| With the skirt is an accompanying blouse
| that, in it's way, also is significant The
fronts differ little from those of the spring
| and blouse slightly, but the back is laid
in a single, hatly stitched, box plat at
the center which meets that of the skirt,
and in place of being drawn down snugly,
blouses over the somewhat wide belt. The
sleeves are in the later bishop style full
and large above the cuffs and enriched
| by applications of white Irish crochet,
which lace also ornaments the collar and
| forms the narrow vest.
Mastic, brown, tan and mode shades are
| to have great vogue. Gray, while always
| correct, is better liked for spring than
fall inasmuch its lighter shades are
cold and the darker are apt to be trying
| cinating new shades are used, while red
always can be looked for with the first
sign of cold weather. Rough cloths and
| cheV1otS with many cdmel'S hairs are
| shown and make exceedingly smart early
season suits. Rhone blue is variation
| and welcome one and many of these first
fabrics show, threads of color and scarcely
| dlscernlble designs in plaids and checks
| that lend warmth and quality, yet are far
| from aggressive. Blue with gray brown
shot with red and black fecked with white
| all are shown as are many others almost
| too numerous to mention. For later wear
| and the most elegant gowns nothing rivals
| broadcloth, which is even more supple and
| exquisite than heretofore, but for autumn
| street and visiting wear the zibelines and
other rough surface materials are much
| in vogue.
| becoming blouses in big numbers That
we are to have twenty-six and seven inch
coats with cold weather appears to be a
| settled fact, but the blouse is much liked
/ found IL
vance models. Some exceedingly chic cos
! tunes are OF rough cheviot in rhone blue,
| with reverS cuffs and collar of canvas en-
broidery in Persian effects. Canvas work
| and these rich colOrs, by the way promise
! great prominence and essentially ele-
| CANT, as all needlework wrought into the
or dressmaker it means a big sum- but is
quite simple and can be done by oneself
with little cost, as 1t need only occupy those
proverbial odd minutes and is by no means
costly as to materials. Oriental bands are
used as applications and give much the
! same effect of color but lack the necl1liar
richness that comes of the work done on
the cloth. Lace stitches, too, are much
seen, but, inasmuch they have been
closely copied in machine-made insertions
doubt their retaining their vogue on the
Smartest gowns, although ii is far too soon
to be confident of anything. These early
models certainly show much stitching and
handwork of all sorts.
ELABORATION IN ORDER.
Everything that tends to elaboration is
in vogue. Irish crochet applied over cloth
is further enhanced by cutting the material
away beneath the open portions of the de-
sign, so giving a pierced effect In MANY
instances the same handsome lace is mis-.
used by being overlaid with discs that are
covered with these same beads. Beautiful
or desirable it assuredly is not but. as
labor means cost, it represents large sums
he
fashion was to be lavish rather than at
tractive, SumptuouS rather than intrin steal
~ lovely. Yet 60 into any large gather.
ing of fashionable women and note how the
few simply elegant gowns stand forth. ONLY
last week. In Saratoga, that fact was borne
home to with peculiar force The races
had brought great concourse of wealthy
folk, and the great piaZZas. bathrooms and
parlors were crowded with superbly gownef
women. Diamonds flashed on every side
Costly laces were trailed about quite as 2
matter of course. Chiffons embroidered
with applique flowers were frequently Il
be seen. Yet the costumes that made tn,
effect were the few that lacked overdis
| play elegant without fuss that stooc
forth because of richness of texture beaut1
of design, perfection of cut but failed n
thrust the consideration of value upon Tn,
mind did so many of the other sort.
To return to the autumn and what II
has in store, white promises 10 retain II,
/ AS elegant reception gown as yet has an
peared is of white cloth combined witt
chiffon and Irish crochet. The skirt is un
| trimmed and box plated. but the bodic.
is elaborate and charming In the form
of a blouse, its open fronts are edged witt