Mexico weekly ledger., 1902-01-23

NaAeoAoh oA1 10 DAAeAt oAo "oAAA-
December is like a Missouri May. A
peculiar feature of this city Of 49, 600
people is that though sixty miles from
the sea, the tide and deep Guadal-
quivir river makes 1t a harbor for sea-
going vessels. Here Columbus was re-
ceiyed In triumph on his return from
his first voyage, here the two chief
Spanish painters, Velasquez and
Murillo, we're born, here was the Span
ish Rome, here resided 1.-THE Barber Of
Seville whom we patronized. 1t has
been the home Of music, art and
m~agni6cence and, though no more the
Spanish capital, has a charm which no
other city in Spain possesses.
When a musician died In Moorish
days his effects were sent to Seville to
be sold. When a book-lover died his
library was sold at Cordoya. The
guitar and castanet are still the chief
objects of commerce at Seville, and
the Andalusian dance is the most
popular diversion. We saw no bull
fight in Spain. 1t is not the season for
such innocent amusements. But we
saw the Andalusian dance in Seville
and are content.
The most conspicuous building In
Seville is the Giralda, originally erect
ed by the Moors as an astronomical
observatory and prayer-tower, now de-
graded TO the baser use OF a church
belfry. The view from the top Of
the tower, some three hundred feet or
more from the ground, is superb, and
the tower itself is graceful in its
architecture.
Adjoining the Giralda is the great
Cathedral of Seville, except st. Peters,
at Rome, the largest church edifce in
the world. 1t contains the tomb Of
Fernando Colon, the scholarly son OF
the Genoese navigator, some priceless
Columbus manuscript, including one
that he wrote in prison to satisfy the
Spanish inquisitors as to the "Bibli-
cal indications Of the new world"
Among the innumerable statues of
saints In two or three dozen chapels OF
the cathedral is one with a wig Of
golden hair which can be removed at
pleasure. Among the pictures is
MurillO's "Vision Of the Holy Child
Years ago a scamp cutfrom the can
vas part Of therpactufe and sold it In
Neg YORK, from where, six months
later, it was restored.
Madrid is a beautiful city, made 50
by its wide and busy streets, Its at
tractive pascos OF promenades, its
parks and gardens, rather than by its
public buildings, the architecture Of
which is as mediocre as that OF most
Of the public buildings 10 the United
States. Possibly Spain has political
architects. Madrid is made" city.
Philip ii, the most powerful Of Span
ish monarchs, when he united Spain
into a real nation, could choose for a
capital nene Of the chief cities Of the
united province and hence established
a one, Madrid, on an obscure creek,
called a river, whose name the scribe
forgets- Madrid is certainly not beau
tiful for situation. Yet despite its
lack Of natural charm the hand Of
mar has made Madrid one the finest
cities in all Europe.
The Prado Museum is Madrid's
boast. Its art gallery ranks with the
Louvre and the galleries Of Dresden
and Florence. 1t is particularly rich
In paintings by Velasquez, the greatest
coloriSt OF all time. Here, also, are
masterpieces by Murillo, Raphael,
Rembandt, Rubens, Titan, Tintoretto
and a series OF fascinating modern
pictures Of street life by Goya.
Next 10 the Museum In interest is
the Royal Armory. Indeed IL sur
passes 1t in some particulars. The
Museum has rivals, the Royal Armory
has none. 1t is the most complete
Of ancient armor TO be found
10 the world. Here are the actual
suits OF armor worn By Charles W
the Handsome, and other
kings. IL requires but little
Imagination, walking the aisles Of the
lrmory, and seeing the mounted
images covered with chain Of mail, to
transport the beholder back 10 the
lays Of chivalry Giant lances, huge
Droadswords, shields Of enormous size
md weight are here. A collection Of
he accouterments Of a State UniveF-
ity foot ball team would scarcely
quail it, however much IL might re-
II. Philip the Handsome
would have made a magnificent center
ush, Judging from his made-to-Crder
D~oiler-plate uniform, while John ",
o his steel trousers, brass shirt and
ron-pot helmet, would be a splendid
cquisition as half-hack or guard.
The Royal Palace, with its beggars
nd its king; the Royal Stables, filled
nth the finest carriages and the finest
.IOrses-the kingsof Spain have ever
lved fast horses; the National Mu-
eRm, with its large collection Of an
lquities-these are among the other
otable sights Of Madrid. OF more
opular interest may be 3 description
I our visit 10 a session Of the Spanish
ongresk
SPANISH LAWMAKERS AT WORK. /,
The Spanish Cortes or congress Is
composed OF two bodies-the
enate and The Chamber Of Deputies
orresp0nding 10 the American Senate
nd House Of Representatives. AS in
he United States, however, the popu-
u branch Is called congress and It's
congressman. So In Spain,
be Chamber Of Deputies is known as
he C0rteS The two bodies meet in /.
spaFate buildings One-half mile or
apart To become q Law bill
lust pass both houses and receive the
pproval Of the Queen Regent Usu-
hoEever. the sctioa Of the Cham
er q Deputies is conclusive The
ppr0Fai u the Queen Regent or any
monarch Is q mere formalitg.i