davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-11-16

crepe de chimes are better liked for these
pleatings. Medallions and bands of heavy
light laces are appliqued on many. A few
show yoke effect at the back n wide
satin ribbon of the same or contrasting
color going around the waist and tying in
a large bow In front.
Sacaues of white mousseline or chiffon.
with delicate colored Japanese silk under
meath, are especially pretty. They are loose
all around and are caught at the waist
with a fancy ribbon. Tiny rose ~ruchings.
shocking and gathering are used for trim
mings. Transparent cloths used for dress
ing sacques are trimmed with any of the
Eastern embroideries. Eiderdown is still
worn, n is beautifully trimmed with
stitched bands of silk. satin or velvet, or
namented with cord frogs and loops.
Striped wash and French fannels make up
nicely. Now and then a satin dressing
sacque Is seen. usually of the softer va
riety.
New York, Nov. IA.
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-11-16

bishop sleeve, with wide. up-turning cuff
edged with a tail OF lace, Is liked. Plain
cloth, velvet and silk are used for the pur-
pose. and g~alloons and embroideries are
used in edging them. With the velvet cos
tune no sleeve Is more popular than the
bishop sleeve of silk or lace. These are
often slashed on the back, edged around
with trimming and held with fancy buttons.
The inverted plat is having its day, for
in obtaining fluffy effects it is most con-
venient- Most often the plaits are found at
the top of the arm and fare into a full pun
below the elbow. In other cases the sleeve
elbow fullness and is brought into subjec-
ton from there down by in-turning plaits.
All sorts of devices are possible for the
made-over gown. A close top and high
cuff extending half way to the elbow may
be cut In a separate piece and attached Ike
the last model of the second picture or OF a
different material, set in with braid. Straps
or other trimmings may be introduced as
in the first illustration in the first picture.
Insertions. medallions and insets of laces
and applique thinning are covering a
multitude Of discrepancies in these days,
and many a ravishing frock which exhibits
rare individuality of treatment could UNI
fold a tale of the ingenuity and invention
of its maker. What a boon, for example,
pieces is the band of lace or embroidery
encircling the arm!
Silk gowns are exceedingly pretty with
the quaint bell shape of the plated sleeve,
with its inner strap of velvet, which flares
over a billowy lace puff. For elaborate
silk and lace or wool and lace costumes
nothing is prettier than the fanciful flowing
sleeve slashed to the shoulder to show the
lace undersleeve and caught in at the elbow
with a strap.
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-11-16

New York Evening Sun.
Happy the woman whose purse is bottom
less this season, for only she can be robed
fashionably. AS the season wakes, greater
elaboration and extravaganza distinguish
the modish wardrobe and wider and deeper
becomes the gulf between the simple walk
ing costume, which TO this hour, happily,
remains simple, and the stunning evening
COWS and smart day frock.
For the fancies and caprices introduced
by the modiste to produce original crea-
tons no other element of the gown lends
itself more freely than the sleeve. which.
from its original purpose as an arm cover
ing, has gone far afield. Were one to judge
swathed in layer after layer OF various
textiles. In all the varity of sleeves full
ness is found somewhere in each. Some
very long ones are tight fitting at the top
die. Others are full at the bottom and
tight at the top, or vice versa. between
the bell sleeve and bishop 1t has been Tor
some time nip and tuck for popular favor,
but on many new gowns the two are COM
bined, the wide bell flowing over the full
bishop at the wrist. Slender women often
supplement the close appearance or the
sleeves at the top with long capelike caps
which extend nearly to the elbows. On a
frock OF taffeta yelled with white chiffon
the sleeve is close fitting from wrist TO
shoulder, the chiffon being shirred to the
plain lining on both sides of the arm. But
over the sleeve falls a long sheathlike cap
covering the outside of the arm and carry
ing out the cape effect of the shoulder
trimming.
A favorite sleeve is cut like a close fitting
coat sleeve in the inside OF the arm, while
a fiaring outside part bulges into a wide
w~ing-shaped pun which plaits under the
straight front. The springing cun Is an
extension Of the inside part.
The cum Is an important part of all the
new sleeves and, deep or shallow, Is found
On all sleeves. For the suit jacket the
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-11-16

Black and white relieved by touches of
pale blue is one of the seasons popular
combinations in handsome tailor gowns.
For the school luncheon box, try remov-
ing the crumbs from the inside of a milk
roll and replacing it with chicken or other
salad left from yesterdays meal.
The caster is back again, but with a new
title. Now it is the breakfast frame" and
holds the salt, pepper, oils ana vinegar. 1t
is a small, low affair In silver and cut glass.
A hot solution Of sal soda or potash
turned down the kitchen sink every day or
two prevents grease from accommodating on
the pipes and saves plumbers bills, besides
helping to keep the air of the house pure.
Gray squirrel has again come into favor
and is used for wraps, Innings, edgings.
cape collars, and muffs. A novel sight is
that of squirrel fur muffs and boas COM
bined with ermine, otter, or black martin.
1t is a mistake to use soap suds and hot
water on a floor stained with grease. Use
cold water, dissolving in 1T as much I'M
slaked lime as it will TAX up. When the
lime is dissolved let it take up as much
sal soda. as can be dissolved. Spread this
solution on your grease spot, brush II off
with a clean scrubbing brush and the
grease will disappear.
One of the prettiest novelties in decora-
tive china is in a point lace design. On
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-11-16

plates, cup and saucers, individual salts and
bouillon cups is a fine white lace tracery
over a dark blue, old rose or pink ground.
with a thread of gilt on the edge. The
centers and inside are white. Again. a fruit
plate will be fired in the color. with the
design of a fine square lace dolly thrown
across the center.
The wine expert OF the Waldorf-Astoria
stands sponsor for the following list OF
vines to be served with the various courses
OF a dinner. 1t may, therefore, be relied
upon as being correct:
Sauterne-With the oysters.
Sherry-With the soup.
Rhine Wine-With the fish,
Claret-With the roast.
Champagne-With the game. salad and
dessert.
Cognac-With the coffee.
Up in the country at this season the ap-
proach OF Thanksgiving is heralded by the
appearance of cider boiled hams. This
Is the way they prepare them: Wash a
lean ham thoroughly and soak IL in cold
water for twenty-four hours. Wipe II dry
and put il into an agate kettle with cider
enough TO more than cover IL. Cook it
slowly, allowing fifteen minutes for every
pound Of the meat. Let the ham stand in
the liquor in which IL Is cooked until IL Is
cold and then carefully remove the skin and
wipe IL dry. 1t is delicious cold for lunch
con or Sunday night suppers.
The long, loose coats of ~three-quarter
length have proved the popular shapes in
outside garments for both day and evening
wear. and they are seen in silk. satin.
cloth, and velvet as we'll as in lace. Black
satin coats are popular with fur or lace
trimmed collars, but for those who desire
a serviceable and comparatively nexpen-
sive wrap the -three-quarter coat OF black,
smooth-faced cloth is a very good pur-
chase. Finished with rows of stitching and
a velvet collar, and lined with white satin.
with a black cloth tailor skirt and white
satin blouse en- suite. the costume is both
useful and good-looking.
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-11-16

the tyranny OF the Roman invaders. 1t
cannot be a question of clothes because il
Is related that in remote and primitive
countries, where people wear nothing but
unadorned nature and translucent atmos-
phere, women who do not hesitate TO
pounce upon a poisonous snake or serpent
and devour il as il wriggles in death ago
MES will run at the sight Of a mouse and
coon" a tree as "a rat runs up a rafter.
People who work with their hands,, who
pick cotton, delve in the earth, WELD the
sledge hammer or carry the hod for the
purpose of creating wealth, much of which
goes 10 the support of the government. its
institutions and the wise men who manage
them, when they pause to mop their per-
spring brows, will no doubt rejoice TO find
that the great intellects which their money
employs are engaged in unraveling this
great question. 1t matters not that their
explanations do not explain and that they
conflict; these great minds are employed.
and that is everything; they are not stag
mating in idleness.
Nevertheless. no one has yet discovered
why a woman fears a mouse. Her own
reason or unreason is simply because
the mystery remains impenetrable- II is
the modern riddle OF the Sphinx. which no
Theseus has yet solved. Or Is likely to.
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-11-16
OF INTEREST TO WOMEN
HI TALL WOMAN Is IN FAVOR
WITH FASHION MAKERS.
Young Men Who Are DiscourteOus
GHests-Ups and Downs of the
Sleeve-Odd Ends.

1t is cruel. inhuman, perhaps, for the
makers of fashions TO decree that every
one must be tall and slender to show off
to the best advantage the artistic models
of the day. says the New York Commercial
Advertiser. But, inhuman and cruel, sucn is
the decree. There is no use railing at ma
ture, or fate, or fashion. The only way
out of the dilemma is to grow and to bant.
She who is tall and stout is not approved
of by corsetiere, filter or designer, but she
who is short and chubby might as well
tie a milestone around her short neck and
have done with life at once, for the artist
costumiers will have none of her. She
is beyond the pale. AS for the short, thin
woman, she has only one virtue, and that
a negative one. She doesn't show. She is
inoffensive, inconspicuous and insignificant.
No one notices her, and so she can at
least console herself with the thought that
few observe how far away from the fash
ionable ideal she is. 1t is all very sad. but
there Is only one thing to do, and that Is
to grow tall by taking stretching exercises
in the gymnasium (Which must be begun
very young) and baking in the hot room
of the Turkish bath until breath and en-
bonpoint are both gone.
One of the smart falseurs in town Will
only have models who are at least five
feet ten inches tall, and they must not
weigh over 40 pounds. The slender woman
must have good lines-to be merely tall
and thin is not the thing desired. All thin
women are not graceful and willowy any
more than all stout women are shapeless
and unwieldy. The ideal figure Of to-day
is tall-very tall-youthfully slender, but
with broad shoulders. long arms, a long
waist line, especially in the back, and small
but well-shaped hips. Hips should never
be fat, but they should not be fat or hol-
low. The woman with the ideal figure is
not entirely fat from the waist down. She
wants the straight line from under the arms
to the ankles, but her skirts need a slight
outward curve from the back OF the belt.
If the spine is too fiat she must be padded,
but women make the mistake of padding
over the hip joint itself and running the
shape Of the figure. Corset-makers are
reaping snug incomes from lacing down
hips to the fiat line. The new corsets are
longer than ever; so long that II is hard
TO understand how women move in them.
They are very short above the belt, thus
giving a certain freedom.
II the faiseur and corSetiere could abSo-
lutely obliterate the hip and the stomach
they would probably be too proud and hap
by to live to admire the result of their
work. They would die of joy. At the pres
ent writing they seem nearer their goal
than they ever were before.
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-11-16

and white broadcloth. narrow Persian en-
broidery. tucked white chiffon and white
and gold lace for the other.
Many dressing sacques in the shops are
almost too dainty TO be worn. They are
made in all the delicate shades and the
prettily striped and dotted materials. Jap
anese and China silks are the most numer-
Gus, though any soft silk or transparent
material is suitable. Any of these in pale
pink, with applique of black lace. would
carry out the designers idea for the sacque
pictured here. Practically all sacques are
prettily trimmed, some are very elaborate.
They reach below the waist line, nave fitted
or loose backs and sailor collars of various
designs. White is the favored shade. though
any light tint is a safe choice. Those
made with a lace ruffie all around. tying In
a loose knot at the waist line in front and
having a scalloped sailor collar edged with
lace are pretty and correct fashionabiy.
Knife and accordion pleating are used ex-
tensiveiy n transparent materials and
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-11-16

lures. your coloring. etc. Look for the bad
points, note those that are accumulated
and those that are modified.
Next take the good ones, observe which
are brought out and which are lessened.
Pitch the hat at different angles and study
yourself again. Bend the brim in here,
then out there; push a spray or a flower
here and there; pull a bow so as to stand
out this way or that. In other words, ring
all the changes on the hat. If satisfied,
wear 1t. If not, don't stop until you are.
Never forget that the coiffure is impor-
tant; that by putting the hair out in one
spot to fill a cavity, or smoothing II back
in another, results are to be obtained. Al
ways remember that the way a hat Is put
on may spoil your appearance, or render
it much more attractive.
One day you may be able to wear your
hat at such an angle, the next your hair
isn't quite the same, you are depressed.
your face a bit pinched, and it does not
look well worn in the same position and
at the same angle 1t did yesterday, when
you were happy. Take out the pins and
rearrange it. Perhaps you will have to
bend the brim. A tilt to the fore or the
rear will often work wonders.
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-11-16
BACHELORS VS.. sPINSTERS.
In This Country There Are More Of
the Former than the Latter.


st. Louis Republic.
A careful reckoning of the number of men
in the various States of the Union who are.
avilable matrimonially has just been fin
ished by the Census Office. II finds that I'm
the aggregate there are 6.726. Ts bachelors
of twenty-one years or over. and makes
a record of the remarkable fact that there
are at present in the United States 2.5co.OOs
more single men than single women OF thae
age and above. :
The exact figures are 4,195. 446 maidens. SC
that the latter are in the minority OF 2,53l.-
333. In other words, says the Cleveland
Plain Dealer, there are 2,531, 33S unattached
males who could not possibly get wives
unless they fell back upon she widows Oh.
girls under twenty. (,
New England has always been supposed
to be overburdened with single women. anC
yet the census reckoning shows that there
is not a State in that group which has noe
more bachelors than spinsters. Even Mass
sachusetts, long declared TO be the choseis
home and resort OF the old maid. has q
slight surplus of unmarried men, the ngs
ures being %, 1872 single males. against us
I'll females similarly situated. Main has
60.s7s bachelors, against $3.50 spinsters;
New Hampshire, IS, 73 bachelors and S0.50s
spinsters; Vermont, 2s.132 bachelors and 49,
749 spinsters; Rhode Island. 4l.6i5 bachelors
and 1906 spinsters, and Connecticut, s4.l5s
bachelors. against 74.73l spinsters.
II is clear from a glance OF the census
figures, however. that the unmarried
women OF the East ought TO migrate 10 the
great and growing, West where tne avaa-
able supply of husbands rs relatively enor-
nous. Just think of California, TOT eh~
ample, where there are ES,5i oachelorS
and only IS, 75 maidens of twenty years ana
upward
But the opportunity IN Idaho is much
ing 2, 4H and the spinsters only a,5y
Montana is another State rich In chances
of marriage, its bachelors numbering 5.4i,.
against 1850 spinsters. Oregon has 60.55
| bachelors and l6. as maidens. while WASH
ington claims s0.0l4 single men and 1888
women. But the banner State for bacls-
elors is Wyoming. which has 2.3E spi--
the sterner sex. II must be very dificust
for a woman TO become an old maid sa
Wyoming.
The excess OF bachelors over spinstess
of twenty years and upward In Massacha-
sets is nearly 2 per cent. In Rhode Islaed
IL is 5 per cent, In Connecticut p Per
cent, IN Maine . per cent, in New Ham9-
cent. New York shows a surplus OF -
per cent, New Jersey % per cent. Pena-
sylvania 3 per cent. Ohio - per GEN.,
Indiana 50 per cent. and Illinois s. Ter
cent. Kansas rises 10 an excess in bach
elors of los per cent. while Missouri she's 5
a surplus OF q per cent Michigan has an
excess Of II per cent. OF single men.
In this country the males outnumksr
the females twenty-four IN every Lea,
and thus IL II obvious that II all OF the
women do not get husbands IL Is not TIE
lack OF available material.
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-11-16
Little Lessons
in Economy

Brussels sprouts are much esteemed and
given rank with the choicest of vegetables,
while the parent stem, or plant. which Is
the common cabbage, is regarded with but
scant favor. being considered a coarse and
vulgar food. Brussels sprouts are the re-
suit of the cabbage plant by cultivation.
They are delicate In flavor. and make an at
t~ractive as well as palatable dish. and one
especially nice to serve with game. APP
pearing in market about this time. their
season continues until March. although
thew NAV be cultivated at any time under
the right conditions.
With Cream ~Sauce.-Trim of all wflted
leaves from the outside Of the sprouts and
let them soak in cold salted water for
twenty minutes so that IL there are any
insects inside they will come out. Then
throw the sprouts into rapidly boiling
salted water and cook. uncovered until
tender, about twenty minutes. but not until
they break and lose their shape. Drain
thoroughly in a colander. then place in a
saucepan with a little butter. pepper and
salt and toss them about until seasoned
Turn into a heated dish and pour cream or
white sauce over them and serve.
Brussels Sprouts Salad. Thoroughly
wash and pick over a pound OF brussels
sprouts, boil until just tender, then drain;
put over the fire with a lump Of butter. a
little salt and pepper and toss Of eight
minutes. Then sprinkle them with chopped
parsley and serve in heated dish.
Maitre D'Hotel.-Boil the sprouts In
sailed water until you can pierce them
with a fork; drain and place In a sauce
pan with a large lump of butter and heat
well. Put half a cup Of fresh butter in a
saucepan with a tablespoonful Of chopped
parsley and the juice OF a lemon; adding
a seasoning Of salt and pepper; beat to-
gether with a wooden paddle until II boils.
Place the sprouts in a heated dish and pour
the hot butter over them and serve.
Brussels Sprouts Salad.-Take a quart OF
brussels sprouts that have been boiled in
sailed water until tender, but not soft, then
thoroughly chilled and cut in halves;
moisten them with French dressing and
arrange in a pyramid in a bed Of crisp let
tuce. mask with mayonnaise and decorate
with a~nchovies, stoned olives, capers and
sliced gerkins. When boiling the sprouts.
leave the saucepan uncovered and do not
cook for a moment after they are done In
order to preserve their bright green color.
A La Duchesse.-Boil a quart Of sprouts
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-11-16

until tender in sailed water. drain ana -,
cover with a good clear stock. season u1,A
salt and cayenne Beat up two egg volk.
with two cups OF milk and add 70 stock 80
sprouts and cook until it thickens hu, ~,
too long. Turn into a heated dish ana
sprinkle grated cheese over the ton a,a
serve very hot.
Canapes make a very tasty first course
when served hot for a luncheon IT,
are made by cutting slices Of bread ousr-
ter OF an inch thick. then cutting them int
circles two and a half inches in diame,.,
or into strips four inches long and two
inches wide. These are toasted or friad
in hot fat or brushed with butter and
Drowned in the oven. They may be served
cold. but are better hot.
Ham Canapes.-Cut the bread into cir.
cles for these and fry in deep fat. Cho,
some cooked ham and pound 10 a pas,s
moisten with cream or milk. spread on
fried bread and sprinkle with cayenne and
grated parmesan cheese and place in
hot oven and brown slightly.
Cheese Canapes-For these cut the slices
Of bread a quarter OF an inch thick. four
inches long and two wide. Spread with
butter. sprinkle with salt and cayenne or
paprica, cover with grated American cheese
or. IL preferred. parmesar cheese. Place
In the oven until the cheese ~softens. then
serve at once before the cheese hardens.
Canape a la Lorenzo.-Put into a sauce-
pan one tablespoonful OF butter and frv
in IL a slice of onion minced fine, but do
not brown IL. Then stir in a Tablespoonful
OF Hour until smooth, but not brown; ada
slowly one cup of stock and when IL cooks
thick and smooth put in a cup OF picked
crab meat. Season well with salt. pepper
and cayenne. and simmer for about eight
minutes. In another saucepan melt a
tablespoonful of butter and add a table,
spoonful of -four and cook smooth. but
not brown: then stir in one tablespoonful
OF milk and two and a half tablespoonfuls
Of grated parmesan cheese and two and a
half tablespoonful OF Swiss cheese, and
cook just long enough to soften the cheese.
Take from the fire and when smooth form
the cheese mixture into six balls. Have
ready six circles of buttered toast, cover
with a layer Of the crab mixture and in
the center place a ball Of the cheese.
Place in a hot oven just long enough TO
heat through. Serve with watercress.
Lobster or fish or chicken may be used for
these.
Copyright by J. B. Pinkham.l
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-11-16

ring fine wares TO the wrong market. That
f. novelty is in tremendous demand in
dsess-ups and street attire and hardly is
needed in house gowns, to which it might
bring the suggestion that the maker had
misunderstood the gowns purpose. Now
and then. of course. there is a house dress
made contrary TO all this, but such are
only exceptions that prove the general rule
IS stated. Light-colored transparent cloths
ssnd soft silks are leading goods for indoor
year. Ladies' cloth and broadcloth, in
very light weaves, In soft grays, tans,
Oyster and white, are often chosen. They
ere prettily trimmed with heavy lace in
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-11-16
Philadelphia Inquirer.

Philadelphia Inquirer.
No woman under five feet four inches
should wear a large hat. No woman OF
imposing height should wear a tiny cha
peau. The short woman should abjure fly
ing ends; they make her seem even shorter.
Don't expect your acquaintance to say a
new hat is anything but becoming to
you. no matter how you look under it. Ii
is polite to admire it; don't be satisfied
with such admiration.
If you nave doubts as to the hat you
have, or intend purchasing, put 1T on, and
with a handglass stand at a good mirror.
Note your defects and your good points
remembering all the unkind as well as the
kind things said about your various fea-
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-11-16

RELY do current
fashions in house,
dresses find ex-
preston in highly
wrought models,
nor is severity
their c~haracteris-
tic. Rather are
they marked by an
attractive simplici-
~, from which
novelty of cut or
finish may or may
not stand out. On
the whole, few
novel fancies are
displayed in this
field. To put them
there would be car