Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-04-19
Table and Kitchen.
A Chapter on Cheese and Dishes Made
of IF

of It.
Among the earliest manufactured foods
we have any knowledge of. is this prepare
! ton from milk of animals. One would sup
pose that an article in such common use
| for nearly 5000 years would be distinctively
classified as to it's place in the dietary. But
| it's value as an article of diet has not yet
been entirely established. The long-stand-
| ing belief, in our country at least, that
| cheese is very difficult to digest. has
| brought it under ban with many. This
| belief is well founded and while the pro-
! portion of heterogeneous matter in given
| weight far exceeds that of meat, it cannot
| be eaten in a large quantity, forming the
| principle article of food substitute foI
| meat, by the majority of people, although
in some sections of country abroad where
meat is not obtainable cheese is largely
eaten in substitution of meat by the hardy
laboring people who are called upon Tor a
very great output of mechanical work, ana
it proves to be not only a very serviceable
diet but a convenient form of foodstuH,
presenting in small bulk a remarkably large
amount of nutrient.
Cheese serves two very different purposes
as food. 1t may be considered and used as
a part of the regular material for the
body's sustenance, or taken in small guam
titles as a kind of condiment along with,
or after other regular fare.
The Various Kinds.
Cheese may be generally classified as hard
and soft, and the different varieties are OBJ
tanned by varying the proportion of cream
When made Of cream alone and at low
temperature with little pressure, we have
the soft or cream cheeses. These must be
used while comparatively fresh, as they
soon decompose and become rancid. Among
the common soft, or cream, cheese We have
no N oils h
many most excellent American cream
cheeses, which, strange to say, find more
general favor abroad than at home, where
their reputation seems entirely local.
The best and most highly esteemed cheeses
are the Stiton, the king of English cheeses;
Cheddar, Cheshire, Camembert, Gorgonzola,
Roquefort, Edam. Gruyere, Parmesan, etc
The Gruyere and Parmesan are luxurious
kinds of cheese, made from goats milk or
an admixture of goats and cows and a GER
tain degree of fermentation allowed in the
process of manufacture.
These cheeses are not In any way SUI
perior to the Cheshire or Stilton cheese,
but their mildness of flavor and a certain
character of texture make them suitable to
use in cookery, chiefly as a fiavoring agent,
and especially with macaroni.
The natural color of cheese is not deep
yellow, but rather dingy white. Stilton
cheese acquires its green color from vege-
table growth, while some other kinds are
rendered green by the addition of powdered
sage leaves.
The food value of the different varieties
of cheese, considered as a general diet, can
only be determined by conditions of its
manufacture. The poorer the cheese IN
fat, the greater the amount of caSein or
heterogeneous element, while the richer the
cheese, the greater the amount of fat.
Cheddar cheese, for example has but an
eighth or tenth of the cream removed from
the milk and contains more fat In proper
ton than the egg. 1t is too rich to be fire.
quently and generously INDUCED in by most
people.
Starch and sugar are two clements lack
Ing in cheese which must be supplied by
vegetables or such foods as give the re-
quired amount of these elements to make
up the requisite bulk of general nourish-
ment
We find the rich cheeses, which have the
large percentage of fat, are those which
blend we'll with bread, in sandwiches. or
with macaroni or rice. The skim-miik
cheeses have but little fat and a very large
amount of rather indigestible curd, and
therefore butter, fat bacon, eggs or cream,
as well as starchy substances. must be
consumed with this in order to have a per-
fectly nourishing food. Apparently instinct
or the sense of taste has taught US more
than theory in the nice adjustments In pro-
portioning our food elements. And where
the taste has not been made callous and
hard to please it is a. reasonably safe
guide.
How to Serve Cheese.
Pineapple, Edam and cheeses small
enough are passed whole. A piece is cut
from the top, plain or in notches, and this
serves lid when the cheese is not on
the table, keeping the cheese moist. These
cheeses are placed in a silver holder or
neatly wrapped in g. folded napkin and
placed on dish.
The Stilton Is cut in half and one half
wrapped In a napkin for serving A large
slice of Roquefort or Gorgonzola Is laid
on a folded napkin. The American dairy
cheese Is cut in cubes of uniform size, while
the soft cream cheeses are taken out Of the
tinfoil wrapper and placed in lace paper
dolly and either served whole or scraped.
Waters, butter and crisp, white celery are
served with cheese Sometimes the celery
and cheese constitute the salad course, the
cheese Parmesan) being grated and used
instead of salt for dipping.
Scalloped Cheese.
Cut six slices Of bread and trim off the
crust, spread well with butter, butter a
baking dish apd put in a layer of bread
Slices Sprinkle thickly with grated, rich
cheese. then add another layer Of bread
slices and a top layer of cheese; season
with salt and paprika. Beat four eggs
| light and mix with and one-half pintS
Of milk and season with salt and pepper,
pour over the bread and cheese and bake
In a moderately hot oven until it forms a
soft custard.
Cheese Croquettes.
Melt three level tablespoonfuls of butter
In a saucepan; add three level tablespoon
fuls Of flour and stir until smooth: then
| add half pint OF milk and cook until
| quite thick. season with half teaspoonful
| of salt and a dash OF cayenne and a few
| drops of onion juice Add the beaten
| yolks of two eggs. cook a few minutes
| longer and then set away to get cold. Still
| in half a cup Of grated American cheese
| form into little pear-shaped croquettes, DIP
| and fry and serve with the salad.
American Buck.
| Crate two cupfuls of good American
cheese: put into saucepan or chafing dish
sprinkle well with paprika and wet with
| ale; stirring constantly until 1t Is a thick
/ smooth cream. Then pour 1t over slices OF
| hot, buttered toast and place thin strip Of
| crisp bacon on top Of each. Serve at once
| Yorkshire Buck.