Evening star., 1902-03-15
STYLES IN MEMS DRESS
FORMAL DAY DRESS OF THE EX.
elusive DRESSER.
Some Of the Things That Will Be
Seen in the Easter
Makeup.
From the Haberdasher.

1t is time to set down in a carefully pre-
pared article all that will be proper in
mems dress for Easter wear. and to give
as accurately as one can q detailed deScrlp-
ton Of the suits, and shirts. and boots, and
hats, and the rest Of the things that man
must wear in order to avoid that intolerable
feeling that he is conspicuous. 1t Is not an
ordinary season in many respects. and l
look for almost revolutionary independence
on the part Of men who have passed beyond
the period Of sartorial education when the
tailor and the haberdasher could tell them
what to wear and when to wear 1t. The
thoroughly well-dressed man Of the period
is naturally a man Of means, and every
thoroughbred man OF means Is a cosmopoh-
tan where dress Is to be considered. for he
will be bound down by no locansms, put
will draw from France or England, Just as
he sees fit. Anything that becomes him.
that suits him, or that appeals to him IS
forthwith his, and he snaps his fingers at
the fellow behind the counter or in the tai
lor shop who would be SO impertinent as 10
criticise or even to offer suggestions.
Best Dressed Men.
The Englishman Is the best dressed man
in the world IL we are considering formal
attire, and the American is the best dressed
man in the world If we are considering all
round day and evening, formal or outing
dress. This is because he Is not such rank
conservative as his British cousin. He must
have a change once In While, ana When
he wants something new he gets It. 1here-
fore( the American mode as compared 10
that of the English Is less steady ana less
staple. 1t changes from one season 10
another and we must be quick TO observe
the little changes made In colors' INES
cuts and forms. There are many or these
orn6 how a III.
larly noticeable in formal day dress. 1t is
here that the smart fellow has departed
from the cast-iron rules and cut ont on
lines that will give his clothing a stamp
somewhat different from that SO oosersa.
Bile in the stuff one gets In shops where
the ready-tO-wear clothing In the factory
made fashions are sold.
We find the exclusive man quite inde-
pendent in the matter OF his SILK nat. ihe
best model shown by Americas leading
halter has moderate conservative bell
with q brim moderately rolled, the crown
being inches high and the brim from IA
to 2h inches wide. These have Linen r1n-
bed silk ribbons. Now the London hat, or
that which the very exclusive chap will
wear. has good broad brim with very lit
tie roll to 1t. and the crown does not bell
noticeably: in fact, 1t seems to taper to-
ward the top. On the hat is a cloth Dand
1ss to inches wide.
The Matter of Cravats.
Again, in the matter of cravats, We find
the utmost trouble and end of expense
has been gone to in order to bring out for
the exclusive man colors and designs that
simply cannot be copied in the cheaper
grades. The new cravat for formal day
wear Is an English square folded into the
broad apron form, so that it ties great
generous once-over. The newest tones. and
those most difficult to get. are the warm
seal brown grounds with effects in darker
,f.1., <l
pure self and self blacks All of these
show patterns SO fine yet so intricate and
SO closely assembled that they really seem
but part of the ground. The pins for
these cravats are Japanese jades. pearls
opals or garnets. surrounded by very neat
gold settings, which are almost invisible.
Collars and Shirts.
The collar adopted by those who follow
the English standard most closely is a
straight lap-front stander But one can
without offending the mode American
wear either wing. poke. or high
lap-over front collar with the frock coat
The shirt. of course. is Of plain fine linen
with slightly rounded link cuffs One can
get the suuare-cornefed cuffs in any of
the ready made shirts. SO the custom max
ers have just rounded the tips of the cuffs
made by them. 1t is not out Of form to
have the bosom of a very fine pique. but
the best dressed men never leave good
linen. Pleated bosom white linen shirts
have been seen here and there, but do not
think they are good for SO formal a coat
as the frock.
The shepherds crook, snake wood stick
with neat silver nosepieoe is very smart
for formal day use, and I do not think
that any other style will displace the suede
glove of gray with self back and one pearl
button at the wrist. The handkerchiefs
for all formal dress are Of either plain or
corded white linen with the wearer's mon
ogram embroidered In white.
While on monograms / might mention
those on the shirt. On colored styles they
should be on the left arm just midway
between the cuff and the elbow. or way
down In one corner OF the shirt tail. like
the latter best, Tor 1t has always seemed