The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1902-10-25
BEAUTIFUL WINTER WRAPS.
Marie Tours Discusses the eCloak and
the Woman"

nAdA16 LOuIS OlSCuSS6S the -'SlOdk dnC
the Woman"
You knew first of ALL that madame
requires something new. IT must be
beyond all things, becoming. The
richer the better for the price. The
woman of taste is the woman of idea
the woman of idea is the woman OF
culture. She shows her native ca
pacity TO develop into an artist by
displaying her good taste in dress. She
cannot build houses or design mag
nificent engineering feats-all these ca
& pacities being latent in femininity-sc
she is confined as to the taste of he1
garments, the architecture of her
" dresses and cloaks, and the color
+ scheme of the materials that go into
such goods, which she displays to her
friends and to the world at large.
The construction of all woman's gar
ments, or the first idea of such things
is, after all, largely in the hands OF
women. Not so much in America as
IN that place of all places" where
the great good things come fron-the
Due de la Paix in Paris. The Rue de
la PaiX is the women's street. 1t is
made by women and for women. The
designs. the constructions, the selec-
ton of materials, the attendance upon
E customers, the management Of work
rooms, the selling of the gowns, in
. fact, everything. except the deliver
ing of the goods, billing and collecting
for same. is conducted by womankind.
. There are men directors, and to them
. a great deal of credit is given for that
which they do not perform
The designing of the majority of
+ costumes, even when executed by men,
is inspired by their wives.
70
7 We are going into the CLOAK and
the woman" much like the old poet
did into the question of the "arms
and the man. But. after all. it is
her outer garments that are the wo-
mans best armament: her weapons of
offense in which she wages most sue
4 cessfully her wars upon her feelings.
The likes, the dislikes and the admira-
ton of her own sex as well as the
opposite one are principally embodied
in the various articles of attire. The
court of course, is the outer shell.
1t is that fascinating shell in which
the butterfly looks at her best at
times. The association that the proper
outer habiliment carries with it is a
great factor in the effect it produces
upon the observer Consequently, we
have in coats today the highest ar
tistic sense in dress.
That the proper coat should be put
on the proper woman goes without say
ing. Will she buy the right thing?
Will the salesman of saleswoman select
the right garment for the right wo-
man? o, that there were artists to
guide and guard against some of the
shocking and atrocious results of bad
selection-a fat woman in the short
coat, the ends with its capacious tails
,c+ al l,a
look a mile wide; or the great, tall,
short-waisted woman who chooses a
little bit Of a Jacket which emphasizes
the shortness of her upper anatomy
and pute the enormous skirt capacity
largely in evidence. The latest new
fad is the kimono jacket. We have not
as yet seen this i nthe market to the
extent that we shall in the future.
The Chinese form for the outer wrap,
as far as the cut Of the back is con-
cerned. viii be the most emphatic
thing later on in Paris.
The great new tendency is toward
glossy, long haired. silken fabrics.
These are called zibelines in the lighter
goods but are peau de chevon or goat
skin in the heavier coatings. These
glossy fabrics have appliques of palmer
cloths. and are superbly suited for the
chenille, silken and wooden braid trim
mings which are going to be SO much in
style.
The great wraps. the outer broad
coats-these magnificent affairs will be
OF velours and velvet. 1t is useless to
emphasize the richness of velvet, or to
oppose for one moment the coming
popularity Of this fabric. These rich
materials have always been favored
MI n
rich. superb and striking: nevertheless,
simple and severe forms. They lend
themselves so admirably to variety
of uses that they are bound to obtain
high favor. These rich velour wraps
have capes, full sleeves. artistic cuffs,
and form the background for the great
est variety of trimmings.
.
The coming craze for jet is particu-
larry suggested by the velvet combina-
ton which Paris will take to with the
greatest favor in the later season. APP
pliques of braids in varying widths,
great concentrations of crochet and
lace guipure, silk motifs, bands. cord
ings. borders. tucks of satin, silk lace,
as well as the remarkable assortment
of inner trimmings in Persian, Egyp-
tan, Oriental and other forms, give
a view of the possibilities of construc-
ton that must suit every taste and
give every designer the long looked for
opportunity.
Then the furs, too, are particularly
suited to combine with such fabrics as
edges for revers and for bottom trim
mings. For the artistic collar effects
and to produce innumerable pockets,
borders, cuffs and other high touches,
the sable chinchilla, ermine, fox and
Persian lamb will be much in evidence
on the velvet garments.
.
Tailor made coats Of kersey and mel
ton will also occupy a prominent posi-
ton on account of their neatness and
fine qualities. They tailor so well and
the cordings, stitchings, turns, twists
and those marvelously hand-worked
ideas, which American tailor made gar
ments show off so beautifully must
ever remain favored, not because of
the economy alone, but of the abso-
lutte good taste.
The Newport forms, with full sleeves,
short or long, the threr-quarter length
garments, tailored and finished in such
style. whether made of the smooth fab
RIGS or in the rich, novel boucles and
friezes, have come to occupy fore
most and stable position for practical
as well as stylish use.-Marie Tours in
Chicago Tribune.
/ believe that the first test of a truly
great man is his humility. / do not
mean by humility doubt Of his own
power. or hesitation in speaking his