The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1902-11-29
FASHIONS DEGREES.
The Oriental Djibbah Has Captured
London Society.

London Society.
London. Nov. 13.-Fashionable Lon
don has an absolute novelty In the way
Of dress, a novelty which. moreover,
is wholly its own, and for which it
owes nothing for suggestion either to
Paris or New York. which is rapidly
coming to the front as the originator
of new ideas in dress as in other
things The djibbah-the English art
list and his wife. who brought it from
the Orient, where the latter found it
in a royal zenena, have elected to re-
tain Its eastern name-is decidedly
novel. Indeed, it is so much so that
it is not quite easy to define it, 1t is
not exactly a morning costume; in its
own country it figures as robe of
state; although loose and flowing, it is
hardly a tea gown, nor a wrapper. Yet
it might easily be made to take the
place of any one of these. The adapta-
bility of the new garment is, in fact, its
creates charm. The djibbah may be
eXquisitely simple, or splendidly elab-
crate, as the intending wearer likes.
In perfect proportioning. flowing lines,
and in the graceful fashioning of the
open Oriental sleeves consist the shape
ly whole. The gown is collarless, and
has no aperture. except that left for
the head something after the manner
of Mexican blanket, but the choice
of a color, both for the djibbah and for
the bands of contrasting hue which
serve as the background for the pretty
needlework at neck and sleeve hens;
still more the stitchery which ranges
from the simplest point Russo to elab-
crate embroidery, affords wide scope
for the exercise of individual taste and
artistic talent
This is, doubtless, the reason why
the new gown has at once leaped into
fa KrOr in iGti 10
Crane, Mrs. J. NJ. Barrie, the daughters
of Burns Jones and of G. F. Watts are
all wearing it for their at homes"
while other less prominent women are
following their example. One enthu-
siastic disciple of this new departure
has announced her intention of wear
ing it indoors and out and. in fact
has already begun to use it as a call
ing gown. However, no one has yet
been so daringly unconventional as to
appear in the djibbah on the street.
-
That the English copy of the Orien-
tai gown may come short in nothing,
eastern dyes and eastern stuffs have
been imported for its manufacture The
Orient also supplies the beautiful en-
broideries with which it is trimmed
Most assuredly a well made djibbah
Is a fascinating robe. 1t is almost uni
Versaly becoming, especially so to the
tall and slender woman. The flowing
lines show TO best advantage upon a
tall and graceful figure. but a small
woman. if she be not actually dumpy,
may look her best in djibbah of a
becoming color 1t is quaint and emil
nently picturesque, artistic to a de-
gree, and most convenient, since there
is not a single hook to be fastened.
Already it has almost superseded the
long loved tea gown among the ultra
fashionables, and all our leading dress
makers are busy with its manufacture.
%
Apart from this one great novelty.
we are not threatened with any radical
changes The shape of the corset re-
mains the same, and the corset is the
accepted foundation of our fashions.
Straight fronted and long over the hips,
the poise of the feminine figure is still
the same.
The newest collars are more than
large; they are small capes, in fact |
They are sometimes quite round and |
sometimes are cut in sort of rounded |
sailor shape. Embroidered lawn and |
lace are still used for them, but the |
latest are of old Powered silks or rich |
brocades and droop in points over the |
shoulders.
Capes are reappearing; indeed, they |
have already arrived. The collar to the |!
newest coatlets are really capes A !
charmingly pretty short sacque is of |
shot ducks breast glace silk, trimmed |
with tiny ruches of the same silk pink |
ed out on the edges. The round Shout /
der cape TO match was finished with |
three full pinked ruches and the gar |
ment tide in front with long ends of |
pinked silk, making bog bow with |
StreamerS.
Some Of the wraps shown in Regent |
and Bond street windows are nantes |
Of the Louis XVI type small round !
capes with long stole or rounded ends |
and with large round hoods Just now |
the favorite material for these is a |
coarse ecru etamine brocaded with
large flowers in gay colors The man
ties are lined with silk or satin in
shades to match the flowers, or else in
grass green, and are trimmed with
quillings Of narrow ribbons of the same
color. Such wraps do not crush the
sleeves, which continue to increase in
size. The fullness is, however. be-
tween the elbow and the cuff. the up
per part Of the sleeve being still fitted |
closely to the arm, although epauletS
are occasionally seen on stylish gar
ments.
Most of the new hats are large and
fat. but velvet toques still obtain, pro-
fusely trimmed with marabout or os-
trich feathers This is pre-eminently a
velvet season, and by far the greater
number of the new hats are altogether
of velvet or of felt, velvet trimmed.
A Strange Siamese Custom.
Every Siamese girl who reaches a
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