New-York tribune., 1902-06-09
COLD DINNERS N FAVOR.
WHAT TO SERVE ON HOT SUMMER NIGHTS
COOL AND ATTRACTIVE DISHES.


Cold dinners by the unthinking considered
cherries feasts, associated in masculine minds
with washdays and other cala1nitous householo
occasions Even on the warruest summer nights
people will absorb soups smoking hot, with meats
and vegetables beneath silver covers to keep them
from getting chilled in their transit from the
kitchen TO the dining room. And there are many
bartarians who, when July brings its wealth Of
berries, will reveI in hot dumplings and puddings.
But there is a revival in cold dinners and they
have received the cachet of society. The terrace
gardens that the fashionable Fifth-ave restaurants
have built for summer dining responsible for
the new order of things.
There must be either patent devices for keeping
warn, viands served out Of DOORS or else they be-
come half warm. The chefs and stewards there
fore have been devisng menus dainty and satisfy
Ing consisting entirely Of cold foods 1t Is one OF
the most grateful and heathful Of ideas during the
weeks of humid weather. and it admits Of the In
PRODUCTION of many dishes long banisheo from the
menu OF modern times.
II was a daring Frenchman who first exploited
the charms of the cold dinner in America he gave
his guests, who were all clubmen, famed lot Ihelr
epicureanism a decided sensation At first they
found the chilly feast unsatisfying, although the
night was warm and the cold dishes refreshing al
though trfe unsatisfying. But as the scneme
unfolded and the cunningiy concocted menu was
developed 1t admitted that the idea was
charming innovation
7, many homes cold foods are actually barred.
Tuncheons are always warm and the decline Of the
old fashioned evening tea IN most city hciheS l0'
1eft no occasion possible for the many desirable
cold dishes. At parties and suppers theS appeaA
and are always enjoyed.
A charming precursor Of the cold dinner is the
iced cantaloupe. 1t may precede the CLAIMS and the
soup or NAV be substituted for one or both olshes
CLANS served as a cocktail. In thin chilled glasses
are adrnra bic a beginning for the cold dinner
These cocktails are at all mysterious in their
method Of manufacture In a cold bowl mix some
chipped ice, the juice Of lemon, tomato cAlsuP'
Worcestershire sauce, horseradlsh' pepper anu s'
IN proportions that must be judged by taste MIX
these ingredients by beating with silver spoon or
fork and then pour into thin ale glasses. over
small cold clans about each glass,
viches' made with buttered brown bread and let
itoud or iei.ied FORM the best soup for the cold
fnoTtant Fish is at its best cold. beautiful
70 look at garnished delicately with crosses or iet
there are brook trout with mayonnaise' soft shell
crabs with tartare sauce; lobster 5 or % SnrlnPs i
lent cold dishes. , ,..u
Cold at Of the beef table Gold sd Ofs ham
are excellent meat course ASparagIs, p az Pea5
are delicious treat when cold, owing to the nov
Xinsgrette sauce is employed with good effect
with green vegetables There must De discretion IN
naise French and tartare sauce should appear only
1nfe 1nise and tartare served the same course.
Game in aspic, boned duck stuffed l,9 and served I'd
Keeping to precede the salad, which may 5 be heavy
hut should be OF the green ana Simple. va
rietv a dish of whole tomatoes, peeled and iced
is refreshing Cucumbers and tomatoes can Dotn
he stuffed served salad
Cream cheese Of any sort that may De ge IN season
IN market is best for the cold dinner. Ihe heavier
cbeeses are only suitable for cold weather.
The dessert should be a masterpiece IN the way
of an ice served with alluring little cakes, and
perhaps berries. or splendid pineapple INTO me
denths of which Maraschino has been poured
or ~ cantaloupe has not been served at the begin
ming of the dinner, IT may end II. It should be
treated in the manner as the pineapple ana
placed on ice with its interior dressing applied Tor
hours before the service
the menu. Wines should be properly colo. not
frozen. Flowers, unless chosen with extreme care
often make a table look warm. especially so un-
less they perfectly fresh. No set epergnes or
rntrrored mats should be allowed, but a glass boWl
of sweetpeas or two perfect roses with
fresh foliage makes attractive centre
Dishes should be freely but delicatey garnished
with crosses. parsley and lettuce. Avoid impress
sonisic Italian effects with beets and hard boiled
eggs and other highly colored things There must
he an abundance of ice in view. placed on the
viands directly before sending TO the table.