Atlanta semi-weekly journal. (Atlanta, Ga.) 1898-1920, 1902-08-18
COLD DINNERS GOOD.
Not the Cherries Meals Some Men
Think They Are. .N

New York Tribune.
Cold dinners by the unthinking are con-
sidered cherries feasts associated in mas
culine minds with wash-days and other
calamitous household occasions. Oven on
the warmest summer nights people viii
absorb soups smoking hot. with meats and
vegetables beneath silver covers to keep
them from getting chilled In their transit
from the kitchen TO the dining room. And
there are many barbarians who, when Ju-
ly brings its wealth of berries. will revel
in hot dumplings and buildings.
But there is a revival Of cold dinners,
and they have received the cachet Of So
ciety. The terrace gardens that the fash
ionable Fifth avenue restaurants have
built for summer dining are responsible
for the new order of things.
There must be either patent devices for
keeping warm viands served out of doors,
or else they become half warm. The chefs
and stewards, therefore, have been divis-
ing menus dainty and satisfying consist
ing entirely or cold foods. 1t is one Of
the most grateful and healthful OF ideas
during the weeks of humid weather, and
# admits of the introduction Of many
dishes long banished from the menu of
modern times
1t was a daring Frenchman who first
exploited the charms OF the cold dinner in
America. He gave his guests, who were
all clubmen, famed for their epicureanism,
a decided sensation. At first they found
the chilly feast unsatisfying, although the
night was warm and the cold dishes re-
freshing. But'as the scheme unfolded and
the cunningly concocted menu was de-
veloped it was admitted that the idea was
a charming innovation.
In many homes cold foods are actually
barred. Luncheons are always warm and
the decline Of the old-fashioned evening
tea in most city homes has left no oc-
CASTOR possible for the many desirable
cold dishes. At parties and suppers they
appear and are always enjoyed. A charm
ing precursor of the cold dinner is the iced
cantaloupe. It may precede the clans and
the soup, or may be substituted for one
or both dishes. CLANS, served as cock
tail, in thin chilled glasses, are admirable
as beginning for the cold dinner.
These cocktails are not at all mysterious
in their methods OF manufacture. In
cold bowl mix some Clipped ice. the juice
of a lemon, tomato catsup, Worcestershire
sauce. horseradish, pepper and salt in pro-
portions that must be judged by taste.
Mix these ingredients by beating with
silver spoon or fork, and then pour into
thin ale glasses. over small, cold CLANS,
about ten to each glass.
Consomme in cups, with crackers or tiny
sandwiches made with buttered brown
bread and lettuce leaves, may follow. Cold
consomme, in its liquid or Jellied form, Is
the best soup for the cold dinner service.
The fish course should always be import
ant Fish is at its best cold. 1t is beauti-
full to look at. garnished delicately with
crosses or lettuce. A whole salmon is an
imposing dish. Then there are brook
trout, with mayonnaise; soft shell crabs.
with tartare sauce; lobster or shrimps-
any OF the many varieties OF sea food
make excellent cold dishes
Cold Joints of beef or lamb are always
better when carved at the table. Cold
chicken and ham are excellent as meat
course Asparagus. peas, lima beans.
nearly all the vegetables in the list. are
a delicious treat when cold. owing to the
novelty of the service. Vinaigrette sauce
is emploved with good effect with green
vegetables. There must be discretion IN
the use Of sauces with the cold dinner.
Mayonnaise, French and tartare sauce
should appear only once-in fact. 1t Is bet
ter not to have the mayonnaise and tar
tare served at the same course.
Game in aspic, boned duck stuffed and
served with Jelly, ported meats Of various
kinds are in keeping to precede the salao,
which may be heavy, but which should De
of the green and simple variety. "A dish OF
whole tomatoes, peeled and iced, Is re-
freshing. Cucumbers and tomatoes can
both be stuffed and served as a salad
Cream cheese of any sort that may be in
season in market is best for the cold din
ned. The heavier cheeses are only suitable
for cold weather.
The dessert should be masterpiece IN
the yay Of an ice. served with allur1ng
little cakes, and perhaps berries, or
splendid pineapple, into the depths OF
which some Maraschino has been poured,
or ~ cantaloupe has not been served at
the beginning Of the dinner, II may end
n. It should be treated in the same man
ner as the pineapple and placed on ice,
with It's interior dressing applied for hours
before the service.
Black coffee is served hottie one CON
cessfon on the menu. Wines should be
nroperly cold, but not frozen. Flowers.
unless chosen with extreme care often
make a table look warm, especially so
unless they are perfectly fresh. No set
epergnes or mirrored mats should be al
lowed. but a glass bowl Of sweet peas or
one or two perfect roses, with fresh green
foliage. makes an attractive center.
Dishes should be freely but delicately
garnished with crosses, parsley and let
tuce. Avoid impressionistic Italian ef-
fects, with beets and hard boiled eggs and
other highly colored things. There must be
an abundance of ice in view. placed on the
viands directly before sending to the ia
BILE.