New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1902-06-02
GLIMPSES OF SEVILLE.
REVIVAL OF SPANISH FORTUNES SINCE
THE WAR WITH AMERICA-THE
WHITE CITY OF DON JUAN, MU-
RILLo AND COLUMBUS.
Seville MAY Ii

closes unmStakable evidence of the revival or
national fortunes since the war with the United
States. Seville is the capital OF Andalusia and
reflects the characteristic traits Of an magma
tive pleasure loving with an Oriental
strain in the blood. There is trace of re-
cent vieissitudes of national fortune in the
beautiful white city, with it's throngs Of prom
enaders in the Sierpes. it's eavaleade of fashion,
able idlers in the Paseo de las Delicias and the
parks and it's revel of music and merriment
after nghtfaIl. The tragedies of war and loss of
empire are forgotten in the comedy Of daily ex-
istence. vivaeious repaFtee and pleasures not
too enfeebIing. The colonies have been lost
but life is less serious since the burdens of mill
tary CONSUMPTION for campaigns In Cuba and
the Philippines have been removed. Taxation
is lighter than ii was during the Cuban revolt
and the war with the United States. and there
has been a material increase in the purchasing
power of deprecated currency. Financial re-
form has not been carried long way. since no
measures have been adopted for the contraction
of the currency, but a beginning has been made
in the law enacted year ago for the payment
of import duties in gold The way has been
opened for the accumulation of gold reserve.
and there has been a marked improvement in
exchange Andalusians dc not reason deeply
about these things. but they convinced that
times not so bad as they were, and they
are looking forward with bueyant confidence
to a happier future. The cafes ring with laugh
ter and the streets filed with gayety and
good cheer Optimism Is the easygoing habit
of Andalusia and Seville is fairly pulsatng
with joy in life. The figure of Faith, with the
| banner of Constantine. at the top of the pink
G.raIda under the blue sky may easily be mis-
taken for Hope. with the legend, Life let US
cherish"
The buoyaney of public feeling in this repre-
sentative city of Southern Spain is justified by
| the expansion of industrial interests There
are many new business enterprises. especially in
the mining and manufacturing districts. There
are considerable investments of new capital in
the mineral lands of the southern provinces, and
factories are building in the northern cities for
linen and other textile trades There are other
signs of commercial revival and restoration Of
confidence in the future of Spain There has
been slow but steady improvement of business
in Seville and ether large towns during the last
twelve months Dependency prevailed at the
close of the war with the United States since
the loss Of colonial markets in Cuba and the
Philippines regarded as a fatal blow to
national industries. A reaction set in when the
truth was discerned that there was ample
compensation in deiiverance from economic ruin
for loss of empire abroad. As time went on
there was an improvement in home trade. and
merchants discovered that their shoppers had
more money to spend than formerly. Politicians
and the newspapers began TO talk about the
concentration Of national resources within the
borders OF the kingdom and the Andaluslan
summed up the argument by declaring that
there was plenty of juice in the Spanish orange.
even If the colonial lemon had been squeezed
dry and flung away While Seville enjoyed for
period monopoly OF the transatlantic trade
after the discoveries OF Columbus cadiz was
more favorably situated a port, and BARGE
Iona ultimately became the shipping centre for
the colonies, Seville has not had large snare
in Spanish trade with Cuba or the Philippines.
but it's eoastwise traffic has steadily increased
in consequence OF the dredging of the Guadal-
quivir. It's commercial classes are more di-
rectly interested in the industrial development
of the Peninsula than they were in the reten-
ton of colonial dependencies, The restoration
of Spanish fortunes cannot be brought about in
a year or in a decade, but there is already
sense of movement from darkness to light
Externally there is lack of light in this
labyrinth of white walled lanes. exposed to the
glare of a tropical sun. The whitewasher is the
tutelar genius of Seville, and he works indie
fatigably on walls and cutters and never varies
his tones. Cordova in its cerements OF white
may be like a city OF the dead; but Seville. IN
its radiant dra peries, is like bride arrayed lot
a carnival OF joy In its streets and patlos there
is fulness of life. An air of gayety and move
midnight and the sluggish donkeys. laden with
Arewood water jars and hampers, are the only
sober minded inhabitants, Street musicians are
constantly tuning up during the daytime ana
there are gypsy dances at night in the prin-
cipal cafes Many a mendicant carries guitar,
and is ready 10 play the tFoubadour of the
perod Of doublet and hose. In the summer
sardeps of the houses the rattle of the castanetS
and the STUNNING of medernized lutes are
heard until midnight. These tiled courts, with
their orange trees and palms, fountains and
statuary mirrors and colored lamps are pct
uresaue corners for serenades and leisurely love
making. and there is an unceasing reyel OF
music and masquerade in these beautiful green
cries with their roses and myrtes One OF tle
visitors first impressions is that the Darpei
trade il the chief industry of Seville Inc
main thoroughfare is lined with luxurious par
hers shops and there is brisk competition
for the distinction OF Identification with Kosslnl
roouacious hero There is abundance of local
color for Bizet's Carmen; and while the statue
~ the stern old Comendador, with the Roman
toga which plays so theatrical part in Mozarts
opera has disappeared from the spacious square
Of St Fernando. 1t would not be difficult to ma
q substitute for Don Juan among the reVeiiefs
I'm the nightly carnival
The sentimental traveller soon ahandons the
quest for Figaro. Don Juan and other nsureS
of the operatic stage in Murino's Seville he
recognizes at every turn the groups or hessAE
boys, with wIstful. piquant faces, when the
srsat rstnter REPRODUCED with unerring realism;
and while he cannot ind IN the streets the
r,o5a,s for the ascetic monks with ecstatie faces
.aar In the religious pictures painted for sac
risties and nonasteries. he sees now and again
and he and