The Birmingham age-herald., 1902-09-28

in the scrappy way have to- Yesterday afternoon we went out to the Orange rec" so called because there are six small orange trees in boxes along one avenue of the lovely park and l saw admiring groups stop in front of one bearing a tiny green orange There are splendid tram cars here and we stood on the further side of street and waved at one. but 1t flew by leaving us wondering, and we by signs asked a frau and she pointed us to a station block away. So they stop only at stations As we couldn't speak German we would give the conductor 10 pfennigs and ride as far as that would take us; then he would come for more, and seemed much amused. He gave us small tickets with the stations on 1t and you pay only so far as you want to go and not fixed sum. The Orangerie is a magnificent park, with lakes, aquarium, most beau- tiful flowers, the arrangement of which I would like to describe. Around one large bed was festoon, looking like em- pire wreaths, with handsome roses at the tops Going nearer 1 found it was honey suckle vines divided in the middle and trained up at equal distances to rose trees covered with enormous blossoms.
 In the intervals were large purple
 blotched petunias. The most effective bed saw was one of dwarf red cocks comb, which looked like velvet rosettes
 with border of dusty miller. Bands were playing, people were drinking beer and
 coffee and all the herren with their
 frauen and kinder were having a good
 time. The dress of the people is not
 very graceful and the little boys all wear
 suits two sizes too large and made blouse
 knickerbockers. and boys and girls to 13
 or IA wear low socks, showing their bare | legs, and on week days nearly all the
 men wear golf hose, even bald heads, but
 yesterday their were dressed in ill-f1tting
 black frocks. The baby carriages in this country are more like coffins than any
 thing else. being oblong, dark painted af- 1 fairs, set high up on bicycle springs and
 the child rides backward, facing the
 nurse. The Alsatran peasant head dress | Is rather picturesque, but most uncom-
 fortable. consisting of huge black bows l of sash ribbon wired and with streamers | behind, looking like the arms of wind
 mill. and the young girls look pretty in l 1t. The new part of Strasbourg Is quite
 handsome. the university library and | postoffice especially. On the facade of | the university I saw Calvin, Melanc- | thon," so l presume they were educated | there We leave in a few moments for
 Heidelberg, and some of the party will | stop off at Baden, which has rather
 gone down Since gambling was sup
 pressed there.
 Heldelberg.-We arrived here at 12:27 | today. by fast express, with two engines. l The route was through a monotonous country laid out in farms, where men,
 women and children were cultivating small patches of tobacco. potatoes, wheat purple clover, hops, etc, and we were never out of sight of villages and cities. At the station of Cos, where one changes for Baden, I saw fine golf links marked Baden and they were grass sod ded, and a man was hoeing them with a horse machine, and there were a number of players. After luncheon we took street car and rode to the foot of the in- cline. which took us up to the Schloss'
 which is lhe most magnificent ruin In Europe These Incline railways are diff ferent frcm ours. There is tank under the car s-ich Is filled at the top with water which Is discharged at the bottom and the car works on cable and cog wheels The Schloss was formerly the abode of electors and rings and the old est part was built in i294, but in the 30 years war was rendered uninhabitable. It was restored, but destroyed again by the French who blew up the handsome buildings. Once more restored, lighting struck 1t and since that nothing has been done except to protect the ruins from decay The Elizabeththoe. a tri- umphal arch Is still standing which was built by the elector Friedrich ", in hon. or of his consort, Elizabeth of England, whose ugly portrait we saw in the mus cum. Down in huge vault we saw the grat tun capable of holding 49,O00 gal Ions, built in 1751, but never filled but three times. Above 1t. in the banquetting hall Is a pump by means of which wine was easily obtained. A small statue in front of it represents the dwarf court fool of King Philip, who drank daily, flr- teen to eighteen bottles of wine.
 In the museum were a multitude of in- teresting things, d2,O0o in alb, portraits, rare chine, coins, manuscripts, the we'd ding ring of Martin Luther, the cradle of Freidrick. the celebrated Heidelberg cat echism, etc. The walls of the castle are twenty feet thick and the Kitchens big enough to roast an OK whole and ev- erything else on the same grand scale. It looks as though it would be an i'm possibility for an army to force an en- trance into such place and yet we know 1t was done.
 Last night after dinner we went to a pretty park near the hotel and heard fine concert of nine numbers, by an or CneStra or dDOuI HIly pictcSf Wich pihy- ed in a building with an open front. just deep enough for the band. The music was mostly classical, but was lis- tened to with profound attention by the large audience. seated in the open air. Tn another shallow, open building near was the ''bier halle where many were having a glass of the liquid so dear to The German heart. noticed the same prevalence of mourning garb here as in italy and Switzerland and I have seen father, mother and several children all | wearing black or some times grey for the masculine element. but always with | a broad black band around the left arm, black gloves, ties. etc. even down to tiny children. Heidelberg is dingy old city. with little of interest. except the | schIoss and university. which Is most ordinary. It is mot large nor handsome, | but is patronized by the princes, the sons of King Edward having spent two | years here. I understand that there is | little real study done. but the time Is | spent in having a good time, fighting | duels. etc. At present there is in session | here an international congress of ocuists about 300 and a good many are at our hotel Some from Chicago. New York and elsewhere. have seen ut one negro | in Europe and that was lady's maid in | Lucerne, but these working people per-