Wallowa chieftain. [volume] (Joseph, Union County, Or.) 1884-1909, 1902-01-09
COLLAR OF HIS OWN.
PRESIDENT RooSEVELT'S MUST
BE MADE TO OROsR.
Not to BE Obtained in the Shops-A Lit
tie Disquisition on the styles of Neck
wear Affected by our Presideuts of
Recent Years.

president Roosevelt is liable to rev.
olutionize the collar business il he
doeSn change his STYLE" sand Broad
way haDeruasner the other day. ''SInee
he became Presiuent We have hau a
number OF calls for the Roosevelt col
lar. OF course, there is no such collar
in the market either as to name or
style. 1t is my opinion that the Presl-
dent has his collars made to order. I'm
questionably there is more COMFORT in
the kind he wears than in most others,
but they are not becoming to every
body any more than the high turn
overs would be becoming to President
Roosevelt. The Roosevelt collar, il
you care to get at its genesis, came in
Presidential favor when Grant was
elected the first time. But Grant wore
a bowknot tie, which gave the collar
a different appearance from that worn
by President Roosevelt.
Lincoln was the first of our Presi-
dents TO discard the old-fashioned
stock, which, if worn now, would make
i
Lincoln's collars when he became Pres
ident were part and parcel of his
shirt 'sewed on as woman would
say. | am told that Lincoln was not
noticeably tidy in his collars. They
had wilted look always. His favor
lite neckwear was black silk tied in a
careless way quite becoming to him.
When Andrew Johnson succeeded to
the Presidency the old stock returned
to the White House. He wore the
wide stand-up collar, which was encir-
| cled by black satin stock with
short, stiff bow.
Mr.. Hayes collar was broad, turn
down with long points. but it was not
high. 1t didn't make much difference
what sort of tie he wore, as his shirt
front was covered by his beard. Gar
fields collar was rather tasteful,
rundown with square points. His tie
was black satin with a square bow.
Mr.. Arthur was the most correct
dresser of recent Presidents. He wore
high collar with points slightly turn
ed out. The fit was always perfect.
He was the first President to wear a
fancy scarf, which was always set Off
by handsome but never loud scarf
pin. He had, so l am told, the biggest
stock of neckwear of any of the Presi-
dents. He was rather partial to black
with white dots.
'Mr. Cleveland's collars and style of
neckwear looked as if they had been
made from the same patterns as those
worn by Andrew Johnson. However,
Mr.. Cleveland never confined himself
to one kind of collar. saw him at his
second inaugural ball. when he wore
plain, wide, rundown, under which
was white string tie.
president Harrison wore turn
down collar, broad and simple, and a
plain black tie, except on state occa-
sions, when his neckwear was conven-
tional.
President Mckinley usually wore a
standup collar with slight flare points.
He liked to be at ease, and that's the
sort of collar for man to wear If he
wants to feel comfortable in a stand
up Mr. McKinley's neckwear was in
keeping with his character, simple and
unaffected.
There have been a good many
changes in Presidential neckwear since
1925, when John Q. Adams wore the
high collar which was completely en-
veloped by the great bundle of material
that was the fashion of the statesmen
Of the early period. think he was the
last President to appear in that style.
But for plain, common-sense, uncon-
ventional style, the Roosevelt collar is,
like it's wearer, a style of Its own
New York Sun.