davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Vinita weekly chieftain. [volume] (Vinita, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1902-1905, 1902-12-25

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The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-09-28
(Nb ILLUSTRATED
~ F A S II O N S

bon, and appliqued with passementeries
and medallons of lace or fancy figured silk.
Many fancy ribbons are used for fastening
them. They are very fluffy and come away
below the shoulders. Some are double,
others triple.
New ribbons are unusually fine, hand
painted, Dresden Persian and figured sorts
being especially impressive Brocaded velvet
ribbons are for nat, dress and sash trim
ming There is a new ribbon, sash width.
that has heavy nap much like plush. 1t
is very pretty. in light shades, for evening
Ribbons of alternate bands Of satin and
brocaded velvet are seen. Satin and gold
figured ribbons are new and very dainty.
Many of the latter are for hat trimming
Plain solid-colored ribbons are most useful
in white, pink and blue.
Velvet gowns are more numerous than in
recent showings at this season. Pressed
velvet the new name for this years new
development of mirror velvets, is pretty. in
solid colors, striped and Powered designs,
and makes lovely suits and coats. Pressed
velvet is seen, too, in happy combination
with handsome silk or cloth. White velvet
gowns for evening usually are rather SIM
ply trimmed. Moire velvet is a new weave
that makes up prettily for costumes and
coats. Heavy laces, fancy passementeries
and embroideries trim 1t. Velvets are
trimmed more freely than In recent sea-
sons, white being the only exception TO this
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-09-28

Fruit that is boiled quickly retains the
color and flavor best.
The secret of successful canning lies In
having the fruit in perfect condition-fresh,
not too ripe; in quick handling and entire
exclusion of air from the cans.
The jars should be thoroughly clean. tops
and all. and be heated before filling with
the not fruit.
Sand them on plate with a wet cloth
under them while filling, to avoid breaking.
A large-mouthed funnel is convenient
for filling, and the jars should be filled to
overlooking with the fruit; whalebone or
flexible piece of wood run down the SIDES
to let out the bubbles of air, and then the
tops screwed on.
They may be further frightened when the
jars are cold, and should then be put away
in a dry, dark, cool place.
According to successful nome preserver
the best way to can small fruits, like the
seasonable plums and the blackberries. is
to follow the plan Of boiling the fruit after
1T is packed in the jars.
Fill the jars as closely as possible, allow
half a cup of sugar to each pint Of fruit,
cover with cold water, put on the tops of
the jars, and place the jars in boiler with
sufficient cold water to come TO WITHIN TWO
inches of the tops of the jars.
Place strips of wood or a folded cloth In
the bottom of the boiler, beneath the jars,
to prevent breaka ges.
Let the water come to a boil and con-
tinue from twenty to forty minutes, &C
cording to the size of the fruit.
In no case should the fruit be allowed 10
break and mash.
When done place the rubbers on the Jars
screw the tops on tightly as possible, and
while still hot apply warm granting wax,
range, putting the wax around quite thick
where the covers Join the jars.
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-09-28

right side, scanning. and turning Il on the
wrong. Stitch near the bottom, and add
more rows of stitching as taste dictates.
Dangling trimmings of all kinds are more
or less Of a mania Drop fringes. pendants.
tassels, cords and Brandenburgs. drop but
tons. are multiplied on the vest importa-
tions, and there are costly ornaments COM
bining silk. velvet. braid and metal with
pendant olives and tassels, all I'm harmo-
NOUS blending of color and design. Black
and deep ecru is a favorite combination for
these trimmings. and is used upon all coll
orings.
Home-laundered lace curtains are often
stiffened too much. This is a common fault
with those Of particularly fine texture,
which should be starched only enough TO
give them the quality OF the original dress
ing. The coarser the lace the more stiffen-
ing will be needed. For the purpose gum
arabic or starch may be used. Certain
housekeepers say that for particularly
choice lace gelatine is best. IL an old APP
pearance is wanted the stinening liquid
may be tinted with saffron. Coffee and tea
are sometimes used. but the former carries
with IL its odor. To get lace curtains
straight and Of even length measure the
depth from top window casing TO floor and
adjust the frames to this size. Then MT
the wet curtains to the space.
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-09-28

rule, and black and dark shades coming in
for amounts of trimming that surprise for
quantity and richness. The black velvet
of the next picture, with its wide rows and
vest pieces of gold embroidery and its
white MORE in yoke and inner sleeves, was
an example. Across the picture is type
of gown that is especially stylish for after
noon receptions. 1t was black net over
white silk. with applique of pink chiffon
rose wreaths, and tucked white chiffon
yoke latticed with rose pink velvet ribbon.
Black laces are similarly used, and either
lace or net may be put over bright silk
Sometimes lace and net are combined
These dresses are richly appliqued with
handsome passementeries and heavy ecru
and cream laces.
Hairy materials are being more fancifully
trimmed and put to dressy use. Heavy
laces ornament many of them, and wool
embroideries are greatly liked for heavy
cloths and look well on them. Crepe de
chimes and soft silk and wool materials are
beautifully embroidered in woods of var
ious tints and put TO the most dressy use,
and the former may be lace-trimmed. after
the most delicate fashion. The central
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-09-28

gown of the third of these pictures was an
example of this last treatment. 1t was
white crepe dc chine and cream point lace.
Blouse coats in one form or another are
worn with jacket costumes. and often are
trimmed with straps. braiding passemen-
teries or velvet bands. Position and basque
effects continue undiminished.
Dressy separate bodices impress because
OF their oddity as much as do coats. They're
handsome. too. many of them. Black nets
made over fancy figured or bright-coIored
silks are fine in them when beautifully
trimmed with applique passementeries and
cream or white laces. White bodices
trimmed with Persian or Eastern trim
mings are handsome. Pale blue, pink,
lemon Nile green and delicate lavender
are used for bodices. and freely trimmed
with lace. braid. cording. medallions OF lace
and batiste, or bands OF lace and insertion.
New crocheted waistcoats are tempting.
They single or doube-breasted. with
silk sleeves or sleeves OF the material. Most
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-09-28

their name will be legion. Worse than that
for the owners OF some OF them, by that
time some OF the early models will be
cheaply and widely counterfeited.
Furs are a-plenty In the stores and coats
OF them are chiefly blouse Jackets or loose
three-quarter models. ChinchilIa. sealskin.
bear and Persian lamb are tip-top furs.
Baby lamb coats are in short jackets and
long or short loose coats. Moire and velvet
trim these. Fur tippets are hatter and
longer than last season. many in collar eff
feet with long tabs down the front Capes
are in all lengths. and muffs trihe
smaller than last year. Some muffs are
draped and finished with fur heads and
tails.
Fichu capes arc more accessory than
wraps and very stylish. In handsome ma
terlals. with long tab fronts. they are
meant for evening wear. They are white
or black and white. in organdie. chiffon or
some transparent material, deliberately
trimmed with ruchings OF chiffon and rib
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-09-28

New York Sun.
In European countries many more women
than in the United States are able to afford
the luxury Of lady's maid. In this coun-
try lady's maid is an Indulgence limited
almost entirely to the rich.
The explanation of the difference is two
fold So far as her own compensation is
concerned, maid in Europe is very much
cheaper than in the United States. Here
the compensation of a good lady's maid
varies from sec to $50 month. In Europe
a well-trained maid may be had for half
the amount paid here.
But it is not alone the question of her
wages that makes an American maid a
luxury. There is also the fact that there
is no provision i'm the scheme of American
life for maid.
In hotels board for a maid will cost at
least half the sum demanded for her mis-.
tress. American hotels have no rooms set
apart for servants, and the maid Is ex-
pected to take her place, so far as her
lodging goes. among the guests.
There is no hotel of the first class in New
York at which a maid may be lodged for
less than SIS week. This does not, of
course, include the hotels in which apart
ments are rented by the year. There she
may be lodged in the apartment, while her
meals will probably cost from IS to $40 a
week.
Putting these sums together, IL VIII De
seen that a maid in New York, unless she
lives in the home of her employers, Will
not cost much less than sS5 month That
sum Is, of course, out of all proportion to
the service she performs. A person who
travels to any extent will find that maid
costs, at the least, 500 a month. And that
is the result of the absence from the
scheme of life in this country of any provi-
sion for the ladys maid.
In Europe women of very moderate
means go abroad with maids, and If they
belong to a certain social class II is con-
sidered necessary for them to have this
bodyguard They are enabled TO have
maids because provisions for servants are
made in all the hotels and on the railroads.
1t is by no means unusual in Europe to see
the mistress travelling first class and the
maid travelling in a second-class carriage.
The maids most in demand in New York
to-day are the Swedes. There are fewer
French maids than formerly, and the few
English maids to be found in New York
are usually employed because they come
to this country with letters of recommends
ton from some person of title. 1t is by
some regarded as an advantage TO be able
to say that one has the Duchess of ST.
Olphert's maid, for instance. when the
subject happens to come up for discussion.
Some of the women who have made a
habit of employing English maids say
that they arc very efficient, but there is
little demand for them.
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-09-28

ious green salads. the outflow of tomatoes.
or else. perhaps. IL il were In winter, the
numberless things in the delicatessen stores.
But the dinner at night would be the same
old everlasting thing-meat and two vege-
tables that can be bought fresh or canned
any time of the year. The fact is this kind
of housewife does not have an appetite for
markets; neither the purchasing nor the
cooking gives her any sort of healthful
pleasure. She dislikes the contact with
people in the markets. but she is sure TO
be I'm the midst of any kind of bargain
counter crowd in department store. Even
then. however. the bargains In Kitchen
utensils do not appeal to her: she takes
no delight in coffee demonstrators" or
show of double boilers and vegetable
dishes. but she will be able to demonstrate
herself, almost, anything in corsets.
This housewife of whom I am speaking
regards the cook in her kitchen as nothing
more or less than pot wrestler She
wonders that the food on her own table,
compared TO that of her honest New Eng
land neighbor. is tasteless most of the
time, and tasteful of dishwater the rest of
the time.
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-09-28
At a ChiIdren's Party.
,rk COMMERCIAL Advertiser.

New York Commercial Advertiser.
At children's party at which the COM
pany was made up of small people of the
most difficult age to please, from twelve to
fifteen years. much enjoyment was got from
the ACKNOWLEDGEMENT game. To each
young guest was given a small blank-book
with pencil attached. The numbers OF the
blanks in the book correspondent to those
Of various articles scattered about the
room intended to suggest places to visit. A
tiny jar of salve meant Greece; miniature
pot of baked beans stood for Boston;
bottle of perfume, Cologne; cigar, Ha-
vana and on. according to ones inge-
nuity. The contest. of course, is to deci-
pher as many of the places as possible. The
prizes were germane to the travel plan, a
book of travels, a silver travelling cup, etc.
Afterward the company was marshaled for
supper by the duplicate illustrated post
cards now issued everywhere. A girl hav-
ing a view of Niagara Falls on her card
was claimed by lad to whom a similar
one had been allotted. Tiny suitcases,
filed with bonbons, were supper favors,
and in other ways travel was suggested in
decoration and menu.
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-09-28

simple device. Pater familias will under
stand all about it. He and his pocket knife
can make the utensil in five minutes.
To take kettle Of scorched food at once
from the fire and set it in a pan of cold
water for a moment or two takes away
largely the disagreeable flavor Of scorched
food.
AS a bleacher kerosene stands high. Put
half a teacupful into a washtub of water,
and then proceed with the washing after
the usual method The clothes will be
whittier, sweeter, and hygienically much
cleaner than they can be got without the
use of the OIL for kerosene is a disinfectant.
1t kills all invertcbrate life, so that many
kinds of germs are utterly destroyed by
its use.
Perhaps some Of you have an old skirt Of
soft material-serge, cheviot, or the like
which you want to restiffen around the
bottom and make serve as walking skirt.
Buy the required amount of heavy cloth.
or, more economical and just good, take
pair of discarded pantaloons, cut care
fully by the seams, and free from pockets.
laps and hens. Then cleanse the four
pieces and face the skirt, laying it on the
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-09-28
An Emergency Drawer.
'oman's Home Companion.

Woman's Home Companion.
BY all means have one. 1t saves the ne
cessity many times of calling a doctor. Sc
lect a place that is easy to reach at short
notice. Mine is a drawer in the kitchen
cupboard 1t contains a roll of strips of
new cheese-cloth for bandages, a bundle
of soft old muslin that can be torn in any
width, as need requires, a little of very
thin old muslin or lawn for poultices, roll
of old flannel package Of f1axseed, a
stick of salve wrapped up in wax paper.
some surgeons plaster, some absorbent
cotton, package of court-plaster, a spool
of No. 40 thread, some needles and pins on
small cushion, a pair of scissors and a
thimble, and two or three bags loosely filed
with salt to be heated and applied to any
part of the body where the pain is located.
These, with a bottle of good linment, and
one of a solution of carbolic acid put up
by a druggist in the right proportion for
dressing wounds, will make you ready for
any slight sickness or accident that may
happen.
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-09-28
MRS. Ro0sEvELTs NEW CHINA.



just Bought for White House.
New York Mail and Express.
Every woman with a taste for Wedge
wood will envy Mrs. Roosevelt the beauti-
full dinner service. which she has just or
dered for the White House china closet. A
piece or two of the valuable ware Is among
the gifts every bride hopes TO receive. and
the matron who is fortunate enough to re-
tain a few specimens of il, after years OF
housekeeping, usually gives to IL the place
of honor.
But fifteen dozen dinner plates. with soup.
dessert, breakfast and other sizes in the
same magnificent numbers, rarely fall 10
the lot of any one woman, in the course OF
an ordinary lifetime, to possess. and when
one remembers also that fish, oyster. bread
and butter services are included, small
wonder that the tenth commandment
should be broken by the average woman.
at the recollection.
OF course il goes without saying that
this is the company china" to be used
only on state or public occasions. Like
every other house mistress, Mrs. Roosevelt
has learned the wisdom OF providing
time. For White House men and maid
servants are only human after all. and
there is little doubt that the service Sc
lected by Mrs Hayes is lacking in several
pieces.
The price of the dinner set Is not given.
but the preparation of some of the samples
alone are said to have cost 5000. Among
the designs submitted were some that In
volved an expenditure of 900. This sum.
extravagant as IL may seem, Is not yet the
highest figure quoted in connection with
handsome chinsware. Fifty thousand dol
lars has been quoted as a millionaire's
wedding gift TO his daughter. Even among
much more modest households, greater lux
ury in the china department Is rapidly
creeping I'm. The blue and white willow
ware. and the egg-shell china OF colonial
days, are still valued. but the Dresden and
Limoges sets cost much more 10 manufac-
ture on account OF the delicate bouquets
and garland with which they are adorned.
Besides. the term dinner service Is grows
ing more and more elastic daily. New
dishes for special use are constantly being
added. Nearly every kind OF meat and veg
etabe has some particular shaped recepta-
Gle set apart. The woman who formerly
bought a dinner set and used her platters
Unfortunately for fish, flesh and fowl
does not exist in this age OF enlightenment.
when the clerks i'm the department stores
glibly call OF the number of asparagus
boats, lobster tureens and hot corn trays
included In sl5.ss dinner set. and even the
cheap tea sets OF English porcelain COM
price muffin servers. toast trays and boiled
egg dishes. by no means interchangeable.
whatever the stress.
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-09-28

of them are in greens, reds, blues or white.
They are very comfortable on cool days
beneath lightweight Jackets.
One of the new wash fiannels has
cheviot weave, and another. with hard
finish and fine twill, may be had in all the
soft colors lightly ficcked with white. Tiny
checks and plaids look like silk at dis
lance. Persian designed hannels are pref
ty. Dotted materials are stylish, from tiny
pin dots to waters. Plain nuns yelling and
wolfe are put in shirtwaists. with touches OF
hand-work trimming. Oriental embroidered
bands trim these materials deal, and so
do faggoting, hemstitching. French knots
and feather stitching. Brilliantines in fig-
ures, dots, stripes and solid colorings are
used much for shirtwaists. They wear well
after making up nicely.
New York, Sept. 20.
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-09-28

Good Housekeeping.

Good Housekeeping.
The good housewife should, first of all,
comprehend that. as there are many fish
in the sea, there are many people who
don't agree; that we are not all of the
same sense of taste and smell. and, it
may be inferred. of course. that l am
speaking of cuj 'nary obligation. She should
be broad of mind enough to realize that.
in either the feast or famine of a house
hold. the provender should not be confined
TO merely her own likes and disikes.
have known women OF large households
who seldom consulted the tastes of the
family in arransing the menu OF the day.
appealed TO themselves in an hour of dys-
pepsia after breakfast. The "men folks"
on their way TO business. passing the big
markets. would see the attractive displays
of the months cornucopia. the fat and
juicy asparagus, the mushrooms, the var
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-09-28

Sailor costumes are always becoming to
young girls and make ideal school frocks.
This excellent model Is shown in blue serge
with trimming of fancy braid and is made
with a square collar. but all simple dress
materials are appropriate and the round
collar can be substituted when preferred.
The blouse is made in simple sailor style,
fitted by means of shoulder and under-arm
seams, and is drawn up at the waist by
means OF tapes inserted In the hens. The
neck is finished with a big sailor collar
that, with the fronts. is Tapped over In
double-breasted style. The body lining con-
sists of front and backs and Is faced to
form the shield.
The skirt is cut with front and side cores,
but straight back. style that suits wash
able fabrics to nicely, and Is attached to
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-09-28
THE SMART" SET.
People wish to Prove an A1ibf When
Charged with Membership.

Harpers Weekly.
We cannot safely believe all we hear, and
it may not be true that Mr.. John w. Gates,
after reading Colonel Watterson's denunci-
alton of the smart SET Immediately
claimed an alibi> and submitted proofs,
which were accepted by Mrs. Astor. Al
most any one who cares to do so can prove
an alibi acquitting him of membership in
the smart Set Mr.. Joseph-Joseph-th
name escapes one-the young man who
cornered wheat-his alibi would be accept
ed, too, no doubt. III Bishop Potter says
he is not of that coterie that settles the
matter so far he is concerned, though
he Is doubtless too sincere a Christian to
care to detach himself from any company
merely because it has fallen into discredit.
Colonel watterson, in saying hard things
of the 400 has not only brought his
charges against a very vague lot OF de-
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-09-28
At Dusk.

follow through the garden dim
The winding way that Lydia passed;
follow, led by trusty guides,
Confident OF success at last
To be rewarded for my quest
When Ly6ia's lips to mine pressed,
The blades of grass they help my search:
A leaf upon the garden walk,
The imprint of little heel,
Are all endowed with power to talk.
They tell me. soft. a secret sweet:
This way-and this-went Lydia's feet.''
The stars leaned down to watch her pass
The boughs they kissed her she went
THEY caught their white bloom from her gown.
And all these messengers are lent
To guide my heart by whispering low,
This Eay-and this-did Lydia go.''
-Harper's Bazaar.
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-09-28

ut woolens put
into gowns are
made with silk
drop skirt match
ing the color OF
the outer goods,
and this whether
the gown be on
the order of the
shirtwaist suit or
a oressy affair.
Between these
two grades Of
dresses a deal of
these soft fabrics
will be consumed.
Canvas cloth eta
mine, nuns VEIL
ing and all the
transparent wool
ems are stylish.
In shirt W aist
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-09-28
Detroit Journal.

We can never be sure who our ''repre-
sentative men are until we have a really
distinguished guest and need a reception
committee Then ii is positively awe-in-
spring to see how many prominent citi-
zens' we have
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-09-28
Odds and Ends.

A groove cut III the top of a broomstick
will save the trouble of carrying the step
hung. The wire and hook, together or
alone, may be lifted and adjusted by the
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-09-28

washinrton Star

Washington Star.
Don't you dread the cold when you pre-
pare for an arctic Journey:
No answered the intrepid explorer;
what j dread Is a frost when / am prepor-
ing for my lecture tour
The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-09-28

the body lining with which ii closes at the
center back.
To cut this costume for a girl of ten
years of age yards of material q inches
wide, yards 81 inches wide or 3 yards a.
inches wide will be required, with "A yard
for shield and standing collar when made
of contrasting material and a yard %
inches wide for body lining
The pattern 4l33 Is cut I'm sizes for girls
OF S, 10, IL and IA years of age.