The courier., 1902-11-15
FASHION

NEW YORK. Nov. 15.-One Of the most
effective evening gowns of the season
saw the other day In the trousseau of an
autumn bride. 1t was of heavy pure
white broadcloth. appliqued and en-
broidered in white and cream-colored
chenille Clusters Of grapes. with leaves.
formed the charming design. and stood
out from the cloth in a most realistic
manner. The bodice had design Of
this sort upon the breast. while the same
delicate pattern, but of much larger size,
was exquisitely wrought upon every
broad panel of the long skirt, which
must have weighed heavily upon the
wearer. Plain wide tucks or plaits of
cloth finished the skirt at the bottom.
Plaits showed also in the sleeves, where
they were stitched lengthwise and were
fiat lying to the elbow. whence they
fiared out into the enormous puffs, each
embroidered in grapes. The cuff which
confined this at the wrist showed
narrow trailing vine only.
White broadcloth with sable and thick
Russian lace forms also an effective
winter combination. A frock Of this
kind was made in one piece with deep
yoke. At least half the bodice was made
Of lace. Sable outlined every big rose In
the pattern of the lace, and the fur tails
fell from the breast on either side of the
front opening. This opening was over
the tucked cloth. embroidered between
the tucks In some conventional pink rose
design. The skirt had deep full fiounce
of the lace from foot to knee. where 1t
met a close fitting cloth which outlined
the hips. Some small crocheted buttons
showed at the back of this.
In the trousseau of Miss Ruth Hanna,
who is soon to be bride. is a lovely
dark blue taffeta- The silk is of a very
heavy quality, and the skirt is tucked
up and down from the belt to where the
flounce begins. which is just below the
knee. These tucks are fine and are
about an inch apart. The flare Gt is
not exactly founce) is tucked in three
groups Of graduated plaits, and these
run horizontally. the widest group be-
ing Of course at the bottom. The skirt is
buttoned part way down the back with
small blue silk buttons These also fas-
ten the shirt waist in the back. and are
placed extremely close together. making
an effective ornament. The front Of this
waist is charming. and after new
model which originated with one Of the
best New York houses. where the gar
ment was made. It shows very short
yoke. not more than two inches deep in
front, and ending, in this case in two
inch-wide plaits. From these length
wise tucks. to match those in the body
Of the skirt, run to the belt, where the
fulness IL confined by a tucked belt
The back. too. II tucked. and the sleeves
show finer groups running lengthwise
and finishing in a pun and cuff, but
toned on loops. close about the wrist.
Miss Hanna has also some pretty white
waists. finished about the front and
shoulders with Persian trimming of silk
These show larger shoulder tucks.
Combinations Of tucks and plaitings
are very popular.
A tafIeta costume Of black is worn by
Mrs. Edward Schoen. Of Pittsburg, who
has q reputation for exceptional taste in
dress. This also IL tucked in the skirt
Only q panel II left in front, over which
q curious Persian design IL machine
stitched in red and white. The effect
IL novel and striking. The bodice. full
In front and drawn down into the belt
in the back. Is ornamented by two big
imported braid pieces. with pendants
done In red, white and black, with just
a thread Of gold running throughout. A
like ornament appears also on each
sleeve. just where the puff begins.
Nothing could be newer or more stylish
than this costume.
The same lady has also a pale blue
crepe de chine. with cream lace inser-
tion- This lace is applied in a most ar
tistic manner upon both waist and