The courier., 1902-12-06
FASHION | /

NEW YORK, Dec. 6.-The women who
contribute most largely to the sartoriai
exhibition which ever distinguishes the
horse show have apparently improved,
both in appearance and taste, since last
year. Many of the erstwhile golden
haired members of that elastic body
known as the 400 have in the past twelve
months become the ash-blondes that ma
ture intended them to be, and this In
itself is a vast Improvement. Another
contributing cause is that fewer jewels
are worn this year. Diamonds in pro-
fusion always detract from the brilliancy
of a woman's complexion and eyes.
A great deal Of black was worn at the
exhibition both day and evening. Many
of the fashionables are in mourning. II
is true, but this viii hardly account for
all Of the sombre gowns and hats. Big
nat black hats with sweeping plumes
and elaborate black gowns, cut very
tight-fitting. save in the sleeves ana at
the feet, and only a few pearls by way
of ornament, were seen at some period
or other in the week on all the best
dressed women. Pure white was also
favored, but IL is not becoming to
women who are not of a pronounced
type. To wear white with effect a wom-
an must be either q pure blonde or
decided brunette.
Brown 10 an excellent color for the
medium type, and Mrs. Alfred Wander
bilt never looked better than in a golden
brown velvet shot with tiny white spots.
and a wide brimmed beaver to match.
This hat was trimmed with bows Of
cerise velvet ribbon and American beau
ty roses and leaves. The curves it took
in the brim over her face were very
artistic.
Antique lace costumes and gowns
trimmed with the old style stun that
we always associate with bedspreads are
coming to the front. When dyed the
laces make up marvelously well. A
steel-gray gown Of this order was one
of the most effective worn last week by
Miss Cathleen Nelson. Her hat on this
occasion was a gray beaver with gray
plumes.
Miss Alice Roosevelt, with a box full
of girls, was the centre Of attraction one
afternoon. She was gowned exactly as
when she launched the Meteor. in sap
phire-blue velvet with wide white lace
collar, and with the big brown bear boa
and mum. Her hat was white with black
plumes-a charming hat, indeed-and far
more becoming than the white one she
wore during an evening visit
Miss Helen Roosevelt wore some sump-
tuous sables, but no jewels. Her hair,
like that Of Miss Burden, Miss Nelson
and many of that younger crowd, is al
ways rather blowsy about the face. This
il picturesque at tennis game, but
hardly in keeping with the required per-
fection of a horse show toilette.
An evening gown just delivered for
holiday festivities il Of white chiffon and
Brussels lace. over white satin. The
bodice has long slender points Of lace
almost to the waist line. with accordion
plated chiffon showing between them.
The sleeves have the lace cap with
points and the full chiffon flowing be-
meath and ending In long streamers. A
wide satin sash encircles the waist,
caught with a square Venetian medal
lion in the back. Another feature Of
this costume is the full skirt. falling full
in an unbroken line to the feet In wide
alternating plaits of chiffon and lace.
A wide lace insertion gives the required
body to the bottom of the skirt. The
prospective wearer of this creation is
very svelte and unusually tall. 50 that
il win. no doubt, be eminently becoming.
In hats, beplumed beavers and furs are
most popular The simplest Of these
rarely costs less than thirty dollars; but
they are vastly becoming. hat with