The Dickinson press., 1902-01-04
FElOlLIEs OF FASHION
eARToRiAL vAoARlEs OF THE CEN
TuRlEs THAT ARE GONE.

eARToRlAL vA0ARlEs OF THE CEN
TuRlEs THAT ARE GONE.
0~rotesque styles That Refined. m
the Time Of CAauoer = Rainent
That Rivaled the Raiabow aad
Men Who starchsA Their Boards.
1t is a little gratifying to reflect that.
however the man Of today may COM
pare with his ancestors of bygone CEN
turtles In physique and morals, his
dress Is much more moderate and in
expensive, eve II. it is less pictur-
esque, than theirs.
1t Is true that here and there one
may find some foolish young man
whose taste in dress is as e~xtravaRant
rs that of any buck" Of the days Of
the Georges. There is, for instance, a
son Of a we'll known peer who has the
reputation of v wearing a suit
twice. He has a wardrobe of waist
coats Of all the colors Of the rainbow,
ranging from a light blue spangled
with silver stars to a deep green satin
with buttons Of eighteen carat gold,
each of which Is adorned with the
painted face Of a beautiful woman.
Another wealthy aristocrat is credit
ed with having as many suits and uni
forms as there are days In the year
and with spending on his tailor's bill
Q sum which would pay the yearly
salary of a minor cabinet minister.
But such men are modestly arrayed
compared with the handles of many a
past century. The earl Of Northum-
berland who lived in ~he latter part Of
the fourteenth century boasted no few-
er than sixty suits of cloth of gold
alone. and the bishop Of Ely Of that
time had a change of raiment for ev-
cry day Of the year.
Much later, in Queen Mary's time.
the wardrobe of a bishop might have
been the envy Of Solomon for the va
riety and costliness Of Its contents, and
even a simple village priest according
to Fuller, wore "a vestment Of crimson
satin, a vestment Of crimson velvet, a
stole and fanon set with pearl, gowns
faced with taffetas. ETC."
In the days of Chaucer fashionable
men wore clothes as many colored as
Joseph's coat, so that while one leg
would be q blaze Of crimson the other
would be tricked out in green or blue
or yellow. without any regard to har-
mony or contrast"
Even as late as the middle Of the
eighteenth century q dandy would deck
himself In "a vivid green coat, a waist
coat Of scarlet, yellow breeches and
blue stockings" and the gentleman Of
a few years later wore, among SINH
lar sartorial vagaries. "a coat Of light
green. with sleeves too small for the
arms and buttons too big for the
sleeves; a pair Of Manchester fine stuff
breeches, without money in their pock-
cts; clouded silk stockings, q club Of
hair behind larger than the head that
carries it, a hat Of the size of a six.
pence on a block not worth a far
thing"
At n fashionable epoch our ances.
tors, to quote the words Of a quaint
chronicler, would weare clothes SO
tighte to ye skin that 1t might well be
conceived they wore no clothes at ALL"
and at another they would wear them
so voluminous that a single suite
might well have afforded Payment for
a whole familie, and so stuffed out
with feathers that, of q verify, their
wearers resembled nothing so much as
walking sackes."
At another period it was the gro
tesque fashion to combine on one per-
son the dress OF all the countries of
Europe-the hat would be Spanish, the
coat French, the trousers Turkish, and
80 on-so that the wearer vas a walk
ing epitome of the dress Of a CONT
nent."
At one time shoes would be worn
with square toes of such width that q
royal proclamation was Issued limiting
the width to six inches. and these
shoes were succeeded by others which
came to the finest of points at the toes.
In Henry Ills time shoes with points
two feet long were worn by the fash
ionables, and In the reign Of Henry
Nv. these points had grown to such an
inordinate length that In order to be
able to walk at all 1t was necessary to
attach the tips to the knees by chains,
which were Of gold or silver, while the
tops of the shoes were carved with all
kinds Of fantastic designs.
In the early part of the eighteenth
century it vas a common, thing for a
nan of fashion to spend several hours
1 day with his valet, among the many
quaint operations being "the starching
Of the beard and the proper pertaining
Of garments. the painting Of the face
and amounting with oils, tinctures, quin-
tessences and pomatums." It Is even
said that some Of the handles Of the
time bathed in wine and milk "for the
preservation Of their compilations and
the regeneration Of their energies."-
London Tit-Bits.