The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1902-08-31
HEy PUNISHED
THE AO0RS
flow Sofne Travellers Treated
a ThieVing Village.
NATIVES AS HOSTAGES
People Turn Over a Ne'er-D
Well With AIacrtty.

"Allahu 4 hbar, God is most great"
exclaimed Z ammoori in shrilI cultural
voice, as he halted his ragged caravan
on the SLOPE Oh a hill. Our muieteer was
from Azamnroor, the city of the Wild
-Olive-named in days when Barbary knew
rot the AIaD-at the mouth of the Min
e.-Rabeea. Of Mother OF Grass After
MITCH hagglng and shrieking protest, he
had consented to carry our camp from
Tang.er 10 Fez. for. though he looked
upon the Nazarine with the scorn Of
true believer. he knew the wisdom OF the
Moo. ush proverb w hen dog has money
call him Ny Lord the Hound" A Gay
marcl, within sight of the sea over sandy
dunes clothed with fragrant broom
brought US beyond the stony ridge OF
AkabaI .el Hamra, or the Red Hill ile
ploughu an was llnyoking his oxen and
the shet herd was driving his flock into
the village when We pitched our tents
near a cl bs4er off thatehed novels walled
bv a cactus hedge. slave of the Prophet,
come hith er," cried Zammoori, throwing
back the gelab or loose woellen cloak
that hung from his shoulders with the
flowing gra re of a Roman toga. A lank
figure. clad like the monk, strobe out
of the gloa ming, and thes packs were
taken from The mules. While the camp
was being made ready We visited the
dehar oar ha inlet, in which were more
storks than people. The rattle of yellow
beaks sounded from every palmetto-eov-
cred roof, for the stork is sacred. To him
-descendent OF a robber who plundered
the caravans on the road to Mecca-the
women conflde the secrets of their hearts.
Wading through bogs we came to the
ruin of Ad MerclEi. Only a few blocks
of stone rising among the rank grass
mark the site of this once important
outpost Of civilization. Rome has left
no impress on BaIbary. And Mercuri and
Volubilis are memorials of here failure
to subjugate the land or to overcome
the Wis inertiae of the Arabs. Her in
nuence, as well as her roads and forts,
has vanished like footprints in the de-
sert. Ascending the plateau of Char
/ biyi we halted ON the outskirt of
market. or fair. to which the people flock
once a week, The soko eI Arba stretched
/ out like a great camp with a black
border of horses and mules. Under tiny
tents reclined courtly Arab merchants.
from whose white gelabs radiated rain
| bow-colored silks, and stuffs. and threads.
Groups of peasant women, with henna-
stained fingers and lustrous eyes that
shone from lashes blackened with anti
mony squatted around. and the shrill
clamor of bargaining filed the air Ber-
bers, whose bushy foreloclIs and untamed
glance proclaimed them from the blad
! es seeba, or Iawless land. moved silently
about in tunics of stuff woven goat hair.
[ SIightless begars in rags shook their
empty gourds to the waihng cry: Give
us what is Allah's, o believersi"
A negro minstrel clashed his iron Gym
| halls. and went through a graceless dance
! while the vendor of sticky sweetmeats
drew TO him the small people by loud
praise of Halawat. Swarms of flies how
cred about the fire over which half
naked Moor grilled minced meat dipped in
oil and stuck like a sausage on an iron
/ skewer Merchants and beggars must
have ben content to see US depart, for
our presence interrupted their business.
| We passed one or two saint houses or
tombs, the white walls and domes CT
I which glistened among dark green foil
age 1t is easy TO be saint in Morocco.
| They haze donkey that is a saint be-
cause he helped to drive out the NazaT-
enc All you need do in order TO become
holy man and have your bones de
posted under a quobah, is TO make UP
I *a n wander , Qhoylr
muttering prayers over your rosary. to
abstain from speech with your fellows.
or 10 cultivate some other eccentricity.
Our muleteers held in reverence and awe
a holy man" whose noisy inspiration
was derived from gin, which he drank
epeniv in their midst But IN this tree
less land holy men, even as bad char
aeter. have their uses-after death. Their
tombs are set in cool groves OF olive
and palm. wherein the weary traveller
may reflect that after all the monuments
OF mans life are often less useful than
the monument OF his death, for a nous
oleum may, at any rate. give shelter and
shade.
Before night we reached the hamlet Of
Araishfa, where an adventure befell US
With reasonable precautions one may
journey IN safety along the caravan
tracks to Fez L is necessary. however
that you should camp near village OF
center OF population. and have guard
al night. The soldier who accompanies
you can demand a guard and VIII parade
with an air Of authority a dozen rsga-
mullins armed with long guns that have
flint locks. and no powder OF ball. Squat
iing before each tent they keep them
selves-as you slso-awske with incessaE'
cIarao- until YOU hear their sn0res with
a sigh OF relief. At Arzishfa We wer,
? Genied these guardians. but were not
aware OF the neglect until morning. fol
our men maintained the clatnor L no
The watch At breakfast a pormanteaI
! vas missed and K Vas seen that one oa
? l the tents had been entered during tn.
! night. The occupants Of the tent has
. been disturbed. but. thinking thar som.
( animal had strayed into their quarter
p gave no heed. Bank notes and paper,
we're scattered over the fioor. and a rid.ns
? / habit and silver pin-cushlcn were pick
ed up 10 the open. There could be 2,
G doubt that robssr had taken advsa
l. ;ace OF our uuguarted state. Reasov
Dysentery