Okolona messenger. (Okolona, Miss.) 1900-current, 1902-10-29
JAPANESE COSTUMES.



Rightly made and rightly worn.
there Is nothing more comfortable or
more luxurious looking in the way Of
q negEge than a kmono. But the
hmono should have the requisite width
lof shoulder, the real long sleeves the
whole dainty finish Of the japanese
garment to be a thing Of art Just
how to give the inimitable touches
only the japanese themselves know,
says the New York Tribune.
A visitor from the far eastern coun-
try recently come to this part Of the
world, equipped not only With q use
ful store Of Englsh, but with 20 or
more bewitching native costumes, has
been helping a new-made friend to
evolve one Of the attractive garments
out Of some queer blue and white Jap
anese materials. All japanese girls
are taught at home how to sew, by the
way. Naturally, the little japanese
woman took the lead. 1t must all be
done after a certain order-hrst, the
two long pieces cut and sewed togeth-
er half way to form the back, then left
open for the front; next, a slash must
be cut on each side where the seam
stops, to form the neck opening-just
so far; and a tiny bamboo measuring
stick is brought into use for this and
other dimensions; then two narrow
strips must be added to the fronts,
\ Just how far up the little measure de-
termines, and sloped of toward the
neck; the sleeves, long and wide, set
on square to the shoulders are impera-
lively next, and the folding collar last
of all.
There are certain memorable "musts'
Of finish about a kimono. The sleeve
front must be made square
for a child and rounded for a woman.
J The front edges of the hem at the
skirts bottom must be turned in at an
angle; the collar must be made to fold
bytying three tiny drawstrings. When
worn the kimono fronts must be
crossed with the left side out, the two
inch wide belt or "kimo" must go
around the waist twice and be tied
in a square knot, with short ends, in
'front.' and over this the more elaborate
girdle. or "obi," with a c~ushion-ike
bow behind. Because, forsooths all
this Is as it was in the beginning.
} To one who has struggled, who has
watched ones maid struggle, to pack
a summer wardrobe into even capa-
cious trunks there is something most
appealing about a kimono wardrobe
and the small space it occupies. An
y other "must;" Kimonos must always
be folded in one way, which produces
a compact, fat result, about the size
and shape of a linen sheet fresh fold
ed from the laundry, and a dozen OF
more kimonos in fat piles require
amazingly little space.
And the cost Of these unique gar
ments? In Japan a charming sill
kimono, silk lined and beautifully
made, costs five or six yen, which
equals $3.50 or three dollars of oul
= money. Other kimonos, in linen, sill
and crepe, range in price from ont
dollar to four dollars or five dollars
crepe being usually the most expen
sive.
Although the japanese visitor dress
es in conventional American costum,
by day, she is only too glad to appea.
ct the evening dinner in native cos
tune, as her hostess urges. ut !
so much more comfortable" the dark
eyed guest answers, in her childlikl
voice. Her outside kimonO is Offences
soft gray or dull blue, striped silk o.
pale green crepe, Oneand all lined Will
delicate-toned silk; but underneath
this rather sober outer garment ar
worn two, three or four silk or erep'
kimonos, in exquisitely rich colors
"We are proud to have very beautiful
our kmOnOs that do not show" tn
soft voice explains, they do not show
except for the bits Of color which thei
ample sleeEes reveal at the wrists
Tothepractical color and fabriclovinI
American all this hidden beauty seem
an arrant waste.
The dainty little foreigner is in he
finest when she wears a delicate pearl
gray silk outer kmono with her fam
ily's crest incOnspicuouly woven i
white at the neck and wrists; 3 pal
heliotrope neCkCloth, or "haneri," Jus
showing, a sumptuous purple silk OF
around her waist and Just a suggestio
Of pale green and-of white silk kline
MOI worn underneath the gray. I
voice, manner and movements she !
gentle and winning; her little hand
and shapeiy wrists would be model
for an artist; she Is daintiness itssli
Boi1ed Dressing.
This Il also nice for cold slaw or ma