Mexico weekly ledger., 1902-01-23

41 49, ~ NSaAa AA1AN ~ RAkNEL
occasions, be exercised, but. the pro
fessor Of English In the University OF
Madrid, who was our guide, was
quick 10 assure Us, it was because the
monarch saw that no bills which be
did not approve came to him for APP
proval. 1t is odd how differently we
do things in the United Statesl
The Alcazar, which was the Seville
residence OF the Moorish kings during
their rule, has been a seat Of the
Spanish soverigns since the Christian
conquest. Its, with the exception Of
the Alhambra, at Granada, the most
interesting and best preserved relic Of
Moorish occupancy In Spain. Altered,
restored and rebuilt during five Chris
tlan centuries it retains much Of its
original richness OF agriculture and
gorgeousneSs Of coloring. Peter, the
Cruel, a famous Spanish monarch, is
much In evidence 1.-THE Alczaar. The
exquisite Court of the Maidens is due
to him as is also the Han OF the Am
bassadors, where he murdered his
royal guest, Abu Said, of Granada, for
a diamond which he wore, which Abu
Said diamond will flash in the British
Edwards crown at his coronation
next June.
Though st. Ferdinand is the patron
saint Of Seville-every town In Spain
has one or more patron saints-Murillo
is the object Of most veneration. Here
he was born, here he lived, did his
greatest work, and died. Curious it is
that this master-artist, best known
throughout the world Of all Spanish
painters, should have been a real
provincial, never happy away from his
own province, and working always
upon materials near his hand. The
Seville museum Is principally inter
esting because Of the Murillos 1t con-
tains, and the Hospital Of La Carload
is worth visiting mainly for its six
paintings by his brush. In the muse
um is some famous sculpture by Tor
rigiani, who broke Michael Angeles
nose when these two were fellow
students and that too, before the days
of foot ball. In the hospital are two
or three terribly realistic pictures Of
dead knights and bishops by Leal.
But Murillo Is the great attraction. II
is the Eclipse first-the rest nowhere.
THE CAPITAL OF THE SPANISH NATION.
From Seville to Madrid is a railway
journey of thirty hours Madrid is
the highest capital in Europe. Within
sight Of the Guadarrama mountains,
perpetually snow-covered, IT has an
abomniable climate. From the noun
tains sweeps down a keen and subtle
wind, which, the Madrlleons say twill
kiln a mar while 1t viii not put out a
candle" The Missourians, shiyering
In the Hotel Ingels-so called because
nobody In the hotel speaks English
gave cordial approval TO the disap-
proval Of the climate. Spanish hotels,
even the best, are not built for cold
weather. They have immense rooms
with marble floors and walls, no
ofices or rotundas, and a writing
room where the only heat in the en-
tire building, outside the kitchen, is
furnished by a brazier-a warming pan
the size Of an ordinary soup plate.
Despite the weather was cold and
despite our sleeping In marble halls,
our stay In Madrid was particularly
interesting. 1t was made so through
the courtesy OF MI. Stanton Sickles,
Secretary of the American Legation,
son OF General Daniel z. Sickles- Mr.
Sickles was born in Spain while his
father was Minister here, ismarried TO
a most charming Spanish noblewoman,
speaks Spanish fiuently, and exerted
himself to make our visit pleasant
and profitable. Through Secretary
Sickles we met FL Marques de Valde-
glelnas, a member Of the Spanish SEN
ate, corresponding TO our United
States Senate, on the personal staff Of
the King and one of the leaders Of the
Conservative political party.
Through the courtesy Of the
Marques, a genuine Spanish nobleman,
we were given tickets Of admission TO
the Senate, an unusual honor for for
eigners, and TO the Presidents gallery
in the Cortes, where we saw the Span
ish Congress in session - this latter
being permitted through the courtesy
Of the President himself, Senior Noret.
We were also admitted to the Royal
Palace itself, a granite structure more
like a prison than a palace, in which
the young King and bis Austrian
mother, the Yicturia-like Queen Reg
ent, dwell. Not only Mr.. Sickles and
the Marques, but Prof. SantsagoT Tray
nor, the Reuter- representative at
Madrid, Don Daniel Lopez, congress-
man and editor Of FL Corroo-the New
York Journal OF Madrid-and, indeed,
all whom we met at the capital were
unremitting In their attention to the
two travellers from Missouri.
The Chamber Of Deputies is housed
in the 'Palacio del Congress" a hand
some stone structure with a porticO
Of six Corinthian columns. Therei is a
fine allegorical group carved % the
front OF the building, representing
Spain embracing the Constitution,