The sun., 1902-04-27
MRS. HAYNES AT OLD KIPPUR.
An AMERICAN WOMAN'S ADVENT.
TRES WITH ARABS.
Helped Her Husband In Excavating the
Ruins Of the Ancient Assyrian City
4 Great Library 5000 Years Old
Found Exciting incidents Of Her Stay

Found Exciting Incidents OF Her Stay
That woman should take her life in her
hands and go among the barbarous Arabs
Of the land Of ancient Assyria TO take part
in the work Of excavating ancient ruins
10 proof Of unusual pluck and love of learn
ing This has been done by an American
woman. Mrs. John II. Haynes, who accom-
panied her husband in the latest expe-
dition sent out by the University Of Penn
sylvania TO continue the excavations begun
BY him in conjunction with DR.. Hilprecht
OF Nippur some years ago.
II was during the last exploration when
Dr.. Haynes was accompanied and assisted
BY his wife, that the now famous library OF
1000 clay tablets was discovered. When
deciphered these cannot fail to shed food
OF light upon the life led by the men and
women in one Of Assyrias greatest cities
1000 years before Christ.
The journey from New York to Bagdad
was no different from hundreds Of similar
journeys taken by tourists; but at that point
Mrs. Haynes's adventures began. Some
OF her adventures she described to the
writer in New York the other day.
We stopped In front Of fruit stand in
the Bagdad bazaar" said Mrs Haynes
'to look at the oranges Soon great crowd
gathered, completely blocking the street
When we tried to move on the crowd fol-
lowed, and at last grew 80 noisy that we
could not in safety remain.
'koshoud, the guide. walked in advance,
scattering the people, but they were much
incensed at seeing a woman In European
dress In public, as was evident from their
jeering and threatening gestures. Koshoud
led us safely up the street a short distance
and put us inside a door which led into
private stall or alcove.
Here he closed the door and stood out
side on guard. l do not In the least question
that we would have been stoned had not
Koshoud acted so wisely"
A few days after this adventure four
OF the workmen formerly employed by
DR.. Haynes at Nppur walked in TO pay
q visit TO their master after trip Of fifty
miles through the desert. They talked
and laughed vociferously, kissing their
masters hands, kneeling at his feet, strok-
ing his clothes. and calling upon God to
bless their Beg" When DR.. Haynes
told them that Mrs Haynes was his wife,
they at once began saluting and greeting
her, kissing her hands and telling her that
they and their wives would do whatever
she wished.
Finally all was In readiness for the de-
parture from Bagdad and the men and
boxes were ferried over the river. Then
the desert journey of fifty miles TO Nippur
began.
1t took ten days Of adventurous travel
mostly on camel back, though the last
stage was by boat on the waters Of the
ancient canal leading TO Nippur. And
all the way the party was in danger both
from the savage Arabs all about them
and the natural rigors of the region.
On arrival the clay house occupied by
DIR. Haynes on his previous stay there
was unsealed. and found in tolerably good
condition, but further improvements were
necessary, for there DIR. and Mrs. Haynes
were 70 dwell for more than q year. The
walls were very thick 20 protect the Amer
leans from the extreme heat OF the summer.
and yct the degree Of comfort attainable was
only limited, even after all practicable
repairs had been made
Mrs HAYNES had to fight her chief battle
with public opinion. Her husband was
popular with his workmen, but it was a
novel enterprise TO bring a civilized woman
among them
Her reception was chilly, and had IL
not been for the friendliness of the Sheikh
Of the district, Hail Tarfa by name, the
outcome might have been disastrous
Knowing how much depended upon him
ell preparations were made for receiving
him with due ceremony.
sheep was sacrificed, and a tent pitched
for the reception Of the Sheikh who would
not enter the house, as II was considered
harem on account Of Mrs. Haynes's living
IN II Her account of this visit had better
lie given in her own words:
As the curious crowd gathered many
OF the more otficious members Of the gterneI
sex crowdlng around the place where my
maid and | were sitting. IL grew 10 be a
seriOus question whether ! should hold
my ground or seek the house ! decided
g. stay where ] was and seem not 20 notice
] tried 10 read and indeed was reading x
when heard the name Hattoon' spoken.
Looking up ! saw very tall Arab
whose whiskeTs would have been gray
had they not been colored bright red
With henna and whose dress Of yello u
elk clearly indicated that he was q man oi
wealth and position, standing In front ol
ne lie was introduced az the greal
bheikh. Hail Tana
quickly arose and salaained 20 MN
then advanced. and, extending nay hand
salaatuad again A. lac took my hand hl'
great. black. ustrous eyrs looked kindly
opNu into mine With an expression Nhci
s."nnei 20 say You are very much oul
OF place, hut you probably mean soll
we lookod al each other only a tuN $50
tlms and hr to lnspcsi the hrri white spi nat
b. had net aud I thru NithdfeN lh'
ofuNd Satol,.i the Introduction in sllun
I'sIsiF and then melted quisily away
Irlm that time Ar Haynsr Nas pop
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