davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The St. Louis Republic., 1902-05-25
BLACK AND WHITE FOULARDS.
WRITTEN FOR THE SUNDAY PDpi-p,

WRITTEN FOR THE SUNDAY REPi-RI1c
>GA LACK and white foulard gowns have
for the moment the most prominent
W. place In this seasons demand for
foulard gowns. and are considered the
smartest OF all. At one time black and
Wnite was considered a second mourning,
but now the combination is worn quite as
much by people who have no wish TO apnear
In even the becoming styles of chiffon. and
the black and white effects have rareIv
even touch of contrasting color to them
The polka-dot of white on the black ground
is as favorite design as ever, but this sen
son the dot IS much larger or very much
smaller a mere pin dot or the size of a %
cent piece being considered the most de-
sirable.
A charming model for foulard ard one
of the newest styles, is in black with lO-cent
size of white polka dots. Down the front of
the skirt and around the sides and back are
two bias bands Of black taffeta- The waist
has tucked waistcoat of white louisine
and there are double fronts, the inner one
of embroidered muslin. the outer one fin
ished with broad bands Of tafreta. through
the center of which IL wide line of fea;h-
er-stitching. The sleeves are finished with
this same feather-stitched band. and areyin
elbow length, with deep cuffs of the en-
broidered muslin. Small buttons ,of rhine
stone put on in clusters of three on the side
of the waist, give Il touch of color. while
extremely odd is scarf of bias black taf-
feta at the bust, the ends made so that they
can either be tied in loose knot or left to
fall loose.
Shirt-waist gowns OF foulard bid fair to be
appallingfy popular, and eAlready embroid-
cred yokes Of bands onsthe front of the
waist are being introduced in order to. give
some relief to the rather too plain effect.
The smartest of these useful If not orna-
mental gowns are made of the polkaiett de.
sign. blue and black, and the. trimmings of
embroidered batste Is thought lsn1atte. and
more appropriate than any OTHER. - =
AIl-black figured india silks are fashion
able this year, and again the polka dot is
seen, but also there are other designs in
The St. Louis Republic., 1902-05-25

WRITTEN FOR THE SUNDAY REPUBLIC.
- FENING wraps for the summer are
W. as necessary as for winter. for the
~ light frocks require to be protected.
and even in the warmest weather it is
not possible to go out In the evening with
ort some covering over neck and arms. The
ruches and boas haev now attained to the
dignity of short shoulder capes, and might
almost be termed wraps but they are not
at all appropriate for anything but their
original use.
The long silk taffeta coats are now sold
ready-made for such low prices as to make
them less smart than is considered desira-
BILE by the ultra fashionably dressed wom-
an. who now goes in for long lace coats;
but as nothing more serviceable or useful
than these same taffeta garments have been
devised, the fashion will remain for some
time. White and colored taffeta coats are
newer than the black. and there is some
thing especially smart and attractive in the
white ones to wear over white and light
gowns. The loose box coat still is the IA
vorite shape. but with some fulness at the
back and little shaping in at the side
seams. The fronts are faced with lace, and
the collar and wide cuffs are covered with
lace also. but there is no other trimming on
the entire garment.
White cloth coats are considered smart
and have bands Of heavy white lace They
are usually lined with some color and yet
the rule is that the lining should be white
this season. All these coats have large,
full sleeves. and the general effect is the
same. Of the coats being several sizes too
large Tor the wearer, and yet a perfect fit
over tie shoulders is requisite. The cloth
and lace coats are more becoming than the
taneta ones. but are very much more ex-
pensive, something to be considered in these
days when all dress material costs so much
more than ever before. When expense does
not have to enter into the calculations for q
summer wardrobe. not, one, hut two and
three. cloth evening coats will be incluiedl a
white one. a: very light tan, and, II there be
a pale blpej gown. a coat of pale blue
trimmed with bYde. and Of exactly the safne
shade.
Laces to match the gowns are for the
moment much more fashionable than the
The St. Louis Republic., 1902-05-25


>nA UN,S yelling, grenadine, canvas. eta
uA mine and all the other thin fabrics
u 1sold under these names and other
names as well are now accepted as
the correct materials for summer wear in
this climate. "This climate is rather a
vague term when there are SO many differ
ent temperatures to be found within a COM
paratively small radius. but whether to be
worn in very hot or comparatively cool
place, nuns yelling will be found satisfac-
tory. Thetlining. If. a very. thin gown is de-
sired. mustsbe of India silk orllawn-taffeta
a heavier silk If the gown needs be
warm. r =
Most exquisite are the colops in all the
transparent fabrics. with many different
shades in each color. There are figured pat
terms as we'll as plain. the figures CT the
same shade, however, for the fad of the mo-
ment is the all-one-color effect-this intens.-
fled by lining of the same shade Bands of
lace entredeux and lace medallions ap-
pliqued on to the material is fashiona BILE
trimming, but for more practical wear the
narrow bands of satin taffeta or MORE rib
bon are better. The newest trimming how
ever, is the lace the same color as the ma
teriai, heavy cluny or guipure. Blue lace
in lovely shade, tan and gray are all to be
had, although sometimes 1t is necessary to
have the lace dyed the right shade. Black
lace is rather somber with the black nuns
yelling, but an edge of white or a touch of
color can always be introduced The great
trouble with most of the nuns yelling
gowns that are made with the lace to
match is that so much of the lace IS used.
whereas only little white or cream color
is required to give a very smart appearance.
One of the most charming models of the
season is a blue Yelling, an electric blue and
of very. thin quality. The skirt is pleated..
inside pleats, and with three shaded
fiounces. The waist has medallions of white
lace, is tucked on the shoulders and blouses
quite little just in front; the fronts laced
with MORE ribbon. finished with tassels the
The St. Louis Republic., 1902-05-25
A ROSE: OF LONG AGO.

Upon the panel opposite
From out the tarnfshed frame it glows,
The sunset gleam that touches it
Reveals. in dim inscription writ:
"a Lady With Rose"
: Long since the dark eyes lost their light;
Long since the red leaves dropped away
No hand outstretched'acro the night
MAY lift the veil that shrouds from sight
Her dead, forgotten day..
If life was fair in that far spring.
Z. If hearts were true or faithless found.
= If meath the sweetness lurked the sting.
What profits now the questioning?
:. The sealed lips make no sound.
Yet In thy painted semblance lies.
= Red rose that shared her Maytime glow.
The tender smile. the Iovelit eyes
; The song. the scent, the sunny skies,
The soul of long ago
Country.
The St. Louis Republic., 1902-05-25
Linens Dyed in Blue,
Pink and Biscuit Tone.

Art linens are dyed In the most artistic
tints and the delicate blue. soft pink or
dainty biscuit tones make up prettily with
stitched straprings. stylish linen gown is
in pale blue with ecru lace and stitched
straps in deeper shade of blue. This is q
charming model for river wear, and the
blouse is very prettily arranged with a fan
cy piastron which fastens on the right side
A mercertzed sateen gown, and which ex-
'actly resembles satin foulard. is made in
similar fashion. 1t is in pretty shade OF
blush heliotrope, on which the ecru inser-
ton lace is very effective. The bodice is In
blouse form, arranged on n fitted lining
There is a tucked vest with revers of lace
and white tucked muslin. The skirt has a
shaped iounce, trimmed with lace.
A charming model for grass linen or mus
lin has stitched bands of Insertion lace. un-
der which the muslin is drawn In ganged
lines. The bodice is arranged in correspond
ing fashion. and there IS yoke of tucks
and insertion
The St. Louis Republic., 1902-05-25
HAT-TRIMMING TEAS.
Quests Who Attend Compete for a
priza b..


Hat trimming teas are Canadian idea
Any number of ladies NAV be invited They
must all be provided with dolls hat ana
paper bag containing scraps of muslin
ehiffon. silk, ribbon and flowers
The prize is offered for the prettiest hat
trimmed in the time allowed. An hour will
Aot be found too long. When the time
agreed upon has elapsed all the hats, fin
ished or unfinished, must be given up and
number pinned TO each. They are all
placed on table. and every one can ex-
aminine them and write on piece of paper
Inc number of the one she thinks has been
trimmed the best
The competitors then adjourn to another
room for tea, and while they are absent
the votes are counted, and the hats ar
ranged in order of merit. The guests may
be allowed to keep the hats or they may
be sent to some bazaar. where they are
sure to find a ready sale
The St. Louis Republic., 1902-05-25
TRIPLES THAT COUNT.

The tailors are busy making up pale gray,
beige and white satin-faced cloths and light
weight zibelines. Canvas and voile cos
tunes are at present in the ascendant, with
an infinite .ameunt Of strappings and tuck
.ings and plisse lingerie. and coarse wooIen
laces and enphroiheries III linen or taffetns
are Introduced freely. IN fast. It would be
difficult to find a dress which is not orna-
mented with lace or embroidery In some
form.
The St. Louis Republic., 1902-05-25
Lower Sleeve Arranged
a. q Loose Puff.

] The sleeves are especially novel, the lower
part arranged as a loose puff and the upper
part closely tucked and trimmed with in
sertion lace
A pretty gown of foulard sateen in a. rich
shade Of rose color has stitched straps of
plain sateen, under which the skirt is pleat
ed and allowed to flow loose below the
strappinss. The bodice is striped with the
strappinss, which terminate over the edge
or deep lace yoke. Lace is added to the
end OF the sleeve. A very charming little
gown Of cotton crepoline IS inlet with
coarse Arab lace in very original fashion.
Inc sleeves are closely tucked to below the
the waist
Tho skirt has a separate founce with fan
cy tabs. which cross the band of lace ar
ranged ON the skirt
A stylish gown OF embroidered grass lawn
mas the sleeves very full and drawn closely
st tne TOD with pieats. 1t gathers and the
1uu bodice. arranged ON q fitted lining has
pieated vest OF plain lawn and a big
SQUARE collar edged with lace The gored
skirt s trimmed with two graduated
nounces. edged with insertion lace
The St. Louis Republic., 1902-05-25
NEW SUMMER SILK.
GrOs de Tours Has a Slightly
Repped Surface.

Gros de Tours is one of the fashionablet
silks this summer. 1t has a soft. finished
slightly repped surface. and is little heav-I
Ter in quality than taffeta, but less glossy.
1t is used in pale. artistic tints for evening,
toilets. and in blues, browns, grays and sage
green ;fots church, visiting, etc. Some OF,
the grounds are satin-striped. then figured
with small leaves or flowers in quaint. Old.
fashioned figures. These silks make charm.
Ing fancy waists and tea gownA =
The St. Louis Republic., 1902-05-25
THINGS WE SEE.

A wicked looking serpent is to be found
on one of the new hairpins. The coils of
It's green, scaly length are loose. forming
a large head for the pin.
Some of the latest stocks come in blue
OF pink or linen color, embroidered colored
figures. outlined with black. making them
look like jewels.
Oval or plain ring hair slides. set with
semiprecious stones, are very much in IA
vor with fashionable women to hald up
stray locks.
openwork stockings of fine silk are worn
with low shoes. Many new designs are
to be seen.
Egyptian designs are largely in evidence
Fashion authorities say that the interest
fashionable people take in Cairo accounts
for the new fad.
An umbrella cover that strives to be dec
orative Is of black silk covered with pin
head polka dots in white.
The new linens intended for covering car
pets during the summer are very attrac-
and floor and stair coverings are made to
match.
: Pretty side elastics are on sale. The wom-
an whose wearing apparel Is no more than
is absolutely necessary will not look at
them. but slender women might. They are
silk and have at the top a little bow Of
ribbon: with little ennbfOfdered rings tackled
here and there. A large ring worked in
the color Of the elastic Is sewn to the edge
OF the corsets.
The St. Louis Republic., 1902-05-25
Russian Gallon Shown in
Straight and Waved Lines.

The new trimmings are very beautiful
lno' atnonsh the keynote is embroidery
little similarity. Russian gallon ,s sbor-y,
IN waved and straight lines. and the cblor-
lnss are exquisite. A gallon in three shades
OF ofue. relieved with gold thread. is worlSeS
on white canvas. and some touches of this
On a oiue. fawn or brown gown would he
qu'c charming Both tailor and modiste
use these gallons between stitched stran-
pings Of cloth or taffeta and with 81,
curves or scrolls at the corners Thev
make attractive trimmings for the coatee or
The St. Louis Republic., 1902-05-25
EVENING WRAPS A NECESSITY.

white and cream. but they must be the ex-
act shade Of the material. and this can only
be compassed by having the laces dyed to
match. Then the material is cut away under
the lace. and certainly the result is cutie
satisfactory. for the lace gives. "a much
lighter effect than does the -one-color ma
terial, while a touch Of white laceiat throat
and wrists tends to make every gown much.
more becoming .-
The St. Louis Republic., 1902-05-25

stripes mot especially effective), and queer
ail-over patterns in raised satin lines 1t Is
TOO early yet TO tell whether these figured
Indla silks in the one color will be popular:
as yet there have not been so many Gowns
turned out as of the plain ones without any
figures, or of the blue or black with the
white dot
The St. Louis Republic., 1902-05-25
Tucked Taffeta Dress Basqued
With Russian Blouse.

The second gown was of taffeta. much
tucked and made with basqued Russian
blouse. which opened over finely tucked pink
crepe de Chine. The blouse could be worn
with other skirts and the vest would admit
of variation. A fiat turban of straw
wreathed with mauve tulle and adorned
with small, pink roses would be pleasing II
worn with this gown.
. Leghorns-indeed, all kinds Of straws-
are brought out in different colorings. Blue
and mauve seeming to have the preference.
The pleats are somewhat broad and two
shades of color often mingle with them,
but they are simply hidden with roses CT
flowers of some kind. Hats grow in size
every day.
We adopting the sacque cut in so
many ways; in lace for high and low even
ing bodices. in boleros to wear over both in
race cloaks and in tea gowns. Where 1t is
possible for anything approaching full
dress, these tea gowns are made of lace, so
that the figure shows through the sacque;
then they are becoming.
The St. Louis Republic., 1902-05-25
CORRECT thin FABRICS.
Shaded Transparent Gray Lace
to Be Seen

same shade. and the upper part Of the
sleeves are rows of tucks, but below the ell,
bow are big, loose puffs. gathered into q
band at the waist. and on the band lace me-
dallions and tfe ribbon lacina ~
The St. Louis Republic., 1902-05-25
IntcrspcrScd With Embroidery.
Pretty Combination of
Irish Lace and Chiffon.

The lace collar IS extremely fashionable.
but Irish crochet and lace are quite the
faVorites. 4 big Richelieu collar of Irish
crochet is a possession to be envied. The
combination of creamy Irish lace and
black or white chiffon is modish and a chou
of velvet or orchid pink makes a dainty fin
ish Two useful gowns for early summer
were seen the other day in one of the FASH
ionable shops. The first was a smart toilet
of btscuit-colored taffeta, the skirt tucked
on the hips, and with three founces set in
pin tucks at the edge and headed by black
insertion lace. The blouse bodice was
tucked at the waist and also to form a
yoke, which was outlined with velvet and
black insertion and deep border of ivory
lace of the heavy guipure type fell below.
The sleeves were tucked to the elbow and
trimmed with two laces. The undersleeves
were puffed and banded with lace. soft
hat in mauve and white satin straw
trimmed with lace and chiffon would be
suitable for this toilet
The St. Louis Republic., 1902-05-25

sne,iaI Corresrandenre Of The Sunday Republic.
ARIS. Nays The business Of dress
EE% ing for the season has now begun
sg@J in real earnest, and 4 very enEross-
ing occupation it Is 70 most Of us.
The modes Of summer are upon Us before
we have hardly sampled those Of spring;
but who is there to regret it, seeing that
these full-blown fashions are SO much
more delightful? The picturesque element
in dress always attracts by reason Of its
artistic possib.iiuIes. Il is this element
which is Upperm5zt in the present styles,
within bounds. Of course. for 70 DE success
full Il must he compassod by Il master
hand. The Louis Nv and Louis XVI styles
have surmouuted the cold reception ac-
corded them Mt first. Traces Of their in
fuence are apparent in most Of the lest
models. especially in the hasIues Of great
er or lesser Importance, on the bodlces and
coats in the revers and vests also. these
last being quite n feature on the newest
bod,ces They display infinite skill and
taste in the shaping and embroidery.
Hat Shapes and Trimmings
Are Kept Flat.
The millinery provided for our summer
edihcation is truly most desirable. The
toques are mostly floral and it requires
infinite art TO make q flower tOque prop
the chapeau style is very large, quaint
and picturesque TO n degree and long
sweeping paradise piumes appear on many
of these beneath the brim. Trimmings and
shapes are kept very fiat, but many of the
hats are raised high up above tke fore
head by means of a barette, so that those
TO whom flatness is uuhecoming need not
be unduiy subjected to 1t. The danger at
present lies in the fear of overtrimnling.
Pretty lace and flowers that bid fair To be
a feature on earlier models, have been
cheapened by universal adoption, and on
the best hats are no more seen. 1t was a
pretty fancy. but the fate which overlook
It is one which lies in wait for nearly every
mode which is easy TO initiate. Safety alone
rests in choosing that which is subtiy ele-
CANT and which appeals TO the inner sense
rather than to the outward eye. Since the
advent Of chemical cleaning the mercerized
lawns, satin foulards and other lovely cot
ton goods are made in the most elaborate
fashion They are trimmed with handsome
lace and are difficult 10 distinguish from
washing silks and foulards.
The St. Louis Republic., 1902-05-25
New Stockings With
Gold and Silver Stripes.

Stockings are embroidered in silk, but,
newer still. III gold or silver stripes this,
alternating with lace insertion. There Is a
perfect passion for embroidery, and the
raised white fax embroideries on linen and
on washing dresses adding to their cost
liness, but also to their beauty. There are
almost as many new laces as there are days
in the year Silk laces are dyed to match
all the new fabrics. The newest form of
collar is like a yoke; indeed. if It is properly
put on. it would seem to be one
light outdoor toilet Is of brick-coored
baptiste finely pleated and adorned with
founces, with revers and epauets in Cluny
lace.
Another unique costume is composed Of
corselet skirt and bolero in taffeta, out
lined with gallons Of cream and block velvet.
The St. Louis Republic., 1902-05-25

bolero. The new back braids are very eff
fective and have small medallion arrange
mcnts of lattice work. which are slightly
transparent.
The embroidered passementerie for smart
gowns is of the floral order. combined with
lace. and arranged so that it is easily de-
tached on sprays or groups for applique
designs. Very handsome. too. are the bor-
dors Of lace and embroidery also detach-
able ana taking the form of medallions-
in circular or diamond shape.
Beads and Gems
IntcrspcrScd With Embroidery.
Lace motifs combined with embroidered
floral sprays look well. and the gemmed
lace is now perfect since the beads and
gems are used sparingly and interspersed
with silk embroidery. Wide insertions Of
lace are shown in lengths running to a
point. each point being connected with an
embroidered painted medallion, framed
in lace~ Many of the new trimmings have
one edge straight and the other irregular,
the latter going upright.
The new ruffles fat instead of round,
and fall away from the neck. They are in
such variety that pages might be written
about them Chiffon. lisse, cut in Van
Dykes and finished with bebe velvet. are
new. The combination of pieated taffeta
and fine lace is admirable. especially when
completed by long scarf ends Of lace to
match.
The St. Louis Republic., 1902-05-25
Partisan nens Are Dued In Delicate Tns Of Pink and Blue,

One New Model Has Stitched Bands Of Insertion Lace,
Under Which the Cloth Is Drawn in Gauged Lines
Lawns and Satin Fouards Are Made in the Most
Elaborate Fashion II Il Il - Il
The St. Louis Republic., 1902-05-25
Hair Is to Be Worn
Low This Summer.

Those who decide the fashions in hair
dressing have commanded us to wear the
hair low. This suits all but the middle
aged and accords well with the Gainsbor-
ough modes of the hour. 1t has opened the
way for the wearing of triple flowers, such
as roses. forget-me-nots or green leaves.
Strings of pearls mingle in the hair Small
black flowers are suitable for blondes El-
derly women wear bands of velvet round
the neck and minsle lace with the aierette.
handsome garden-party toilet is of fig
ured acknowledgement foulard, tucked
straight and horizontally and enriched with
guipure, which at the back extends from
the neck to below the waist to form a
square basque. The yoke-folded collar and
elbow ruffles are in white silk muslin.
MARIE ARMSTRONG.
The St. Louis Republic., 1902-05-25

Oval or plain ring hair slides. set with
semiprecious stones, are very much in IA
vor with fashionable women to hald up
stray locks.
The St. Louis Republic., 1902-05-25

Openwork stockings of fine silk are worn
with low shoes. Many new designs are
to be seen.
The St. Louis Republic., 1902-05-25

WRITTEN FOR THE SUNDAY REPUBLIC.
,nA UN,S yelling, grenadine. canvas. eta
mine and all the other thin fabrics
u y sold under these names and other
The St. Louis Republic., 1902-05-25

Egyptian designs are largely in evidence.
Fashion authorities say that the interest
fashionable people take in Cairo accounts
for the new fad.
The St. Louis Republic., 1902-05-25

An umbrella cover that strives to be dec
orative Is of black silk covered with pin
head polka dots in white.
The St. Louis Republic., 1902-05-25

A wicked looking serpent is to be found
on one of the new hairpins. The coils of
its green scaly length are loose. forming
a large head for the pin.
The Washington times., 1902-12-23
Continued from First Pag,)

coarse, and has no Interests except soI-
dierlng and hunting The strict pious
atmosphere Of the court was not con
genial TO the crown princess.
AT one time her father raised "a
scene by abusing her for reading Zola.
lbsen, and other authors which he con-
sidcred improper. The clerical element
intrigued against the princess relent-
lcssly because OF her ridicule OF their
sham piety."
Another account Of the prlncCss flight
says her leaving the palace was not vol
untary. but that her husband had elected
her after discovering her liais1ns. first
with an American dentist. and then with
the French tutor. The princess enemies
allege that the dentist Is the father o.
the sixth child. but that the tutor fed
with her
-Four others. the account says. fed
with ber also. being ueitiycs for yari-
Gus reasons. Among those are her eldest
brother. the account says. and bis mis-
tress. a dancer at Vienna opera house.
The brother. before leaving saIzbme.
IS reported 20 have written 20 the En-
peror desiring 90 rcuounce his rank and
privileges. and 10 become a plain ciu-
zen in order 70 enjoy life. The Emperor,