Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-09-30
Table anda Kitchen.
That Highly Esteemed Bivalve, the
Oyster

While each season brings us something
new in the culinary line, or regulates to
the past and obsoktS kpme class OF foods
which have long he'd 4Eh place in popular
favor, that most geAdeabeast and quiet, the
oyster. never loses its place in the esteem
OF those who have knc$ learned to enjoy it.
Yet there is no foo4 thtt suffers more, per-
haps, from bad esbkisg than this dainty
and delicate mollusk. When one departs
from eating them au naturel which is the
most desirable and approved method. he
must of necessity, lese much of the enjoy
ment. as the piauant flavor is lost In heat
ing them.
When Cooking is Allowable.
Cooking may be advisable when persons
are unaccustomed to eating the oyster and
feel decided objection to partaking of any
animal food in its raw state. Or when one
obtains them in inland places to which they
are, as a rule, transported in bulk and
open. In this instance. and especially when
they are chilled by keeping large piece of
Ice in with them, they may prove fat stale
and Improbable unless they are served in
some of the many dishes devised and en-
ployed to give variety and spice In present
ing them to the palate. But whatever
method is employed unless the very great
est care is observed cooking will render the
heterogeneous matter they contain tough and
insolubie, making them very difficult Of
solution in the stomach.
Next to eating them raw, the best method
Is to steam or roast them in their shells,
eating them as soon as the heat forces the
shells to open.
How to Eat Raw Oysters.
The custom Of dressing up the I'M
cooked oyster with a deluge Of condiments,
acids. seasonings, etc, effectually destroys
all the vestige Of their dehcacy. and is
purely American, though most Objectionable
to those who, living near the briny home Of
the native" have been bred on this class
of sea foods and eatrthe salts direct from
their watery beds with no other dressing
than their own natural juices, which con-
tain considerable amount of phosphoric
acid. To complete this simple but defect
able feast crisp celery and brown bread in
thin slices are served, The nutrttve value Of
the oyster Is extremely small. and in order
to get the daily allowance Of nitrogen from
this class of food alone one would have to
eat an enormous quantity. This fact does
not lessen the value of the oyster a
most agreeable addition to our menus, but
rather increases its WORTH as they may be
served as accessories to more substantial
meats without making too great an excess
of like foods; or they may constitute the
principal dish, without other meats, when
| light repast Is required. The soft part of
the oyster. which forms the greater bulk, is
| the liver. In eating raw oysters the liver
| ferment is allowed to act upon the glycogen
| is in a sense. self-digested.
The oyster Is seldom eaten alone. except
by invalids and in cases of chronic illness,
when loss of appetite Is a marked feature
as well as inability to digest the heavier
! and more concentrated forms Of heterogeneous
| foods.
When cooking the oyster for the sick it
should be merely warmed sufficiently to
make 1t more acceptable If the raw state Is
Objectionable; but remainder that the heat
| may destroy the digestive ferment. and long
| cooking will render the oyster almost or
| quite indigestible, according TO the condi-
| ton of the digestive functions For the
| weak or invalid always remove the hard,
| muscular part.
When oysters are to- be cooked it is not
| necessary to use those of finest quality, as
| the flavor is in great measure changed,
| and larger, coarser- oyster Will answer
| equally as well. The luxurious little aris-
| tocrat Of the trib& mollusca should be Sc
lected only to grace the banquet table, where
| masters of eloquence may pay 1t inspired
| and poetic tribute.
Oyster Fucassee.
Drain and pick over quart OF oysters
Reserve the oyster liquor and strain 1t
through cheesecloth. Make two cups OF
! white sauce, using the oyster liquor instead
of milk. Season to taste with salt, cayenne
and a grating Of nutmeg. add the oysters
and cook until the gills begin to curl Stir
longer and pour out over hounds Of delicate
toast, arranged on a. heated dish.
Oyster Shortcake.
IF this is carefully made 1t is delicious.
Make a rich but light baking powder bis
cult dough, and bake in layer cake tins,
split and lightly butter each as 1t comes
from the oven. Scald the strained liquor
from a quart of oysters. Rub two table
spoonfuls Of butter smooth with two table,
spoonfuls of flour and stir into one and one
half cups of scalded milk. Cook and stir
until it thickens; add a tablespoonful Of
butter to the oyster juice, heat 1t; season
to taste with salt and white or cayenne
pepper. Add oysters and heat unit! the g1lls
ruffie. Then lay the oysters on the layers
of shortcake add the liquor to the sauce
and when blended spread over the oysters:
then add another layer Of cake. then oys-
tiers, and pour sauce over the whole, spfln-
kle with little minced parsley and serve
very hot.
Oysters a la Newburg.
Heat a cup of cream in a double boiler.
Rub two ounces Of butter with table
spoonful of flour. Rub the yolks Of three
hard boiled eggs to a smooth paste with
little cream and add to the hot cream with
the butter and flour. Stir and cook until
it is smooth and thick Season to taste
with salt and cayenne. Plump pint OF
oysters in their own liquor, then skim out
and turn into the sauce. Add two table,
spoonfuls of good sherry and serve.
Oyster Rarebit.
Drain and pick over a pint of oysters
Scald them in their own liquor until gills
curl then drain, remove the muscle and
place where they will keep hot Break half
pound Of rich soft cheese into bits, put it
into a saucepan with a tablespoonful OF
butter, quarter of teaspoonful of salt,
dash of cayenne and saltspoon Of mustard.
Beat two eggs slightly; pour the strained
oyster liquor into them, place the cheese
over the fire and stir constantly. AS 1t
melts add gradually the liquor and eggs.
When soft and creamy add the oysters and
heat moment, then turn out on toast and
serve
Deviled Oysters.
Drain, clean and chop fine twenty-five
oysters; add half a cup Of fine bread
crumbs. one cup cream. one tablespoonful
Of melted butter; two tablespoonfuls Of
WORCESTERSHIRE auca SALT and pepper to
taste, ButterSc8ap Rystsrs shells or fancy
baking dishes arg olivia Ahe deviled oys-
Drowned.
Oyster Pie.