Evening star., 1902-03-01

HOLD
lINTS

" NYY1nNl3J
While the food value of fish Is not save
in the case of cod. equal to either pork
or beef, 1t holds a high place in our die
taries, both from the standpoint of the
economist and as furnishing the variety
which is essential to health. The old and
widely exploited notion that fish contains
large proportions Of phosphates, and on
that account is particularly valuable as
brain food has no facts to back 1t, and is
now discounted by psychologists. "Phos-
phorus," say they, ''is no more essential
to the brain than nitrogen. potassium or
any other element which occurs in its It's
sues" Certain 1t is that peoples brought
up on an exclusive fish diet have never par
ticularly distinguished themselves for their
intellectual ability. All concur, however.
in the idea that fish, supplemented by
bread, potatoes and other farinaceous foods,
Is a particularly desirable food for per-
sons of sedentary habits. This is the great
standby lin Lenten days when flesh and
fowl are forbidden. and with the infinite
variety which the markets afford to choose
from, there need be no 'damnable itera-
ton"
Of fish always from her menus by Saying.
MY family doesn't like fish," the infer
ence is that she does not Enow how to cook
or serve it, for fish more than any other
article of food, needs "bralEs'' in the couk-
ing. An oily fish should never be fried. and
no fish except salmon sh )llid be boiled un-
less accompanied by a rich sauce made
from butter, eggs, lobster, shrimp or oysters,
to atone for it's insipidity. Fish may be
cooked in almost as manv ways as there
are kinds and the variety at this season
is something to be grateful foi.
Here, then, are few tested methods of
serving fish that may be added to the
housekeepers private cook book.
A very palatable fish soup may be made
Of salt cod or Of almost any fresh fish. The
cheaper kinds are quite as good for this
purpose as the more expensive. 1t is GUS
tom alone in this country that counts the
various shell fishIobster. crab, shrimp,
oyster, clam, turtle and terrapin-aS the
best possible basis for soups, but ignores
the possibilities of fish sans shells. Not
SO on the continent, where the French and
Italians are particularly noted for their
delicious soups and stews of fish. Who
that has ever eaten bouillabasse at Mar
seilles fails to subscribe to Thackeray's
well-known estimate of its delights:
This bouillabaisse noble dish is
A sort of soup or broth or brew
Or hotch- potch of all sorts of fishes
That Greenwich never could outdo;
Green herbs, red peppers, mussels, saffern,
soles, onions, garlic, roach and dace;
All these you eat at Jerre's tavern
The French cook gives the preference to
red mullet, whiting. sole, haddock and a
couple of dozen of muSsels in concocting his
"hotch-potch." In this country the plebeian
"bullhead," or catfish, cod, black bass or
founder serves the purpose excellently we'll
Place in a large stewpan three or four
tablespoonfuls of olive oil and add three or
four medium-sized onions, sliced. Fry to a
into pieces two or three inches square to
cover the bottom Of the pan. Pour in
hot water to cover. allowing to each pound
of fish a teaspoonful of salt, the juice of a
lemon, four or five fresh tomatoes, or their
equivalent canned; a Glove of garlic, two
small red peppers, sliced, or a pinch Of
cayenne and two or three glasses of white
French wine or sherry. Cover and boil
well for half an hour Just before serving
add a pinch of saffron and tablespoonful
of chopped parsley. boil but a moment or
two longer and serve with thin slices of
dry toast.
An English fish soup is excellent and
does not call for such variety of ingredi-
ents. Put into a f1at-bottomed saucepan
three tablespoonfuls Of butter. When hot
add two sliced carrots and two small
onions, also sliced; tablespoonful of pars-
ley sprig of thyme and couple Of cloves.
Brown lightly, tossing In the butter; then
add two quarts of cold water. Let it come
bly, haddock, turbot, Gods head or whit
ing--using bones and all. Season with salt
and pepper and simmer gently for two or
three hours. Strain, add few shell fish,
or fillets Of some Of the fish cut into small
portions and boil a few moments longer
Lastly, add little chopped parsley. thicken
slightly with rice flour or cornstarch, and
serve In a hot tureen.
All fried or broiled fish should have lemon
served with them.
In the growing list Of salads. fish. both
fresh and picked, plays an important part.
Among the salt fishes the herring, the
mackerel and the sardine divide honors A
salad of herring is sometimes designated as
infrsquently as "a la Russo BY either
name the result Is satisfactory, even though
there is a variation in some Of the ingredi-
the roast beef may be supplanted by veal
or beef tongue, and chopped pickles. boiled
beets, or hard-bofied eggs, be added Cut
In thin, uniform slices six cold boiled pota-
toes; and three tart apples. Cut into dice
three picked hefrings and sufficient cold
roast beef to make nearly a pint Mix IT,
gethtr,. and add q tablespoonful of fine
chopped onion, two tablespoonfuls tarragon
the dee box until serving time Line the
salad bowl with crisp lettuce leaves put
into bowl a steasp0onful and q half of
salt; quarter teaspoonful Of paprtha and
eight tablespoonfuls OF olive oil.TRub with
the back OF a spoon until the salt Is dis
solved, then add two table4poonfulsi Of
lemon juice and one OF vinegar. Nix thor
oughly. add teaspoonfnl of made mustard,
and few drops OF Worcestershire sauce;
pour over the meat and hsh; place on the
| lettuce and serve at once.
All fish salads are better II the fish Is
marfnated with little lemon juice an hour
before serving.
salmon IL one of the few Ash that il al
ways better eaten cold. and Is in perfec-