The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1902-01-22
For the Housekeeper.

There always has been a goodly band OF
conservatives opposed TO what they called
fancy cooking. Generally. in common
| with the unframed domestic servant. saws
Good Housekeeping, they reckon, eli ef-
forts of the culinary art with which they
are unfamiliar. as French cookery"-to
them the final term OF approbrium. Let
us look al the latter In the right Hight
For, be IL known, there are few things
more expensive than the so-called plain
cookery While IL may eschew French
dishes and imported delicacies, its strong
hold Is in roasts. steaks chops, meat
soups and the like. Good steak and chops
do not cost as much as sweetbreads and
game, but they are far more costly than
the many savory dishes that can be pre-
pared by little attention to the stigma
tized fancy" cookery
III the housekeeper will but turn her at
tenton to the possibilities OF cheap cuts
OF meat she will be surprised TO see how
she can reduce her butchers bills Well
seasoned stews, appetizing pot roasts or
brsised cuts will often take the place on
her table OF the plain roast or broiled. In
the using OF left-overs in palatable fash
Ion, the despised French cookery is In
valuable, since A. gives the secret OF
sauces that disguise the wsrmed-up flavor
. of the meat and make a palstable and
attractive dish out OF what, I'm the old
time, would have been the everlasting
cold roast. or the equally longlived hash
Hash IL an excellent thing but change
to minoes, meat pies. salmis. pates and
the like will usually prove acceptable. In
SOUPS the same rule prevails A soup for
which stock must be bought can not fail
TO be expensive, and not even mock turtle
Is as high-priced as fine, clear soup made
from fresh meat. The woman who has
studied fancy cookery IL familiar with a
noble army OF soup maigres'. or soups
without meat Among these are the
homely and old-fashioned bean and split
pea soups. Black bean soup. lentll soup,
tomato soup and vegetable broths NAV all
be made without meat stock. and when
one enters the region of cream soups con-
tanning no meat, the LIST is practically
endless.
Hardly second in Importance TO this
economical view OF fancy cookery
comes the consideration OF variety Few
indeed. are the people who are always
contented 20 have their potatoes served
baked, or boiled plain. their cold roast
In unaltered form, and their soups al
ways clear. and never diversified even by
the addition Of macaroni. shredded vege-
tables or barley In summer, when fresh
vegetables are in the market there Is no
better way OF serving them than the sim
plest fashion. In winter. when one must
take so-called green vegetables canned,
or not at all. the case is different. and
then the fancy cookery lends it's aid.
Canned corn is made into pudding or
pancakes. canned tomatoes are stewed or
baked and other timed vegetables are
submitted to similar treatment
To the student Of food values Il belongs
10 take the best wherever she finds It, To
adapt foreign fashions 20 home uses and
out of the many varying methods OF cook
cry 10 produce a school OF dietics which
shall not he French or English. fancy or
plain. but broadly and sensibly American.