davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-09-21

back of the corSage there starts long SASH
of the Powered silk, having one streamer
caught q short distance down with pretty
rosette, and then both ends falling yer the
skirt train.
The Paquin dinner model is a handsome
conception, carried out in embroidered tulle.
The coronation festivities introduced
number of evening and demitoilettes of this
style, Upon foundation of ecru taffeta, in
an extremely delicate shade, there is hung
a soft full overdresS of ecru tule embroid-
cred in dull gold and silver. The embroid-
cry is slightly raised, and over it there is
a scattering of pinkish pearl paillettes and
tiny silver spanges that make 1T look as IL
it were powdered with snowtiakes. The
combination of the ecru, dull gold and sill
YER and the slightly pinkish tingle OF the
pearl trimming is highly effective, and the
skirt is cut in graceful sweeping lines that
show the embroidery to the greatest ad-
vantage.
A bertha of the raised embroidery on tullo
falls prettily from the cut out neck and
droops over the elaborate sleeves, which
consist of unusually full pufs of mousseline,
vertically run with frills of the same soft
fabric, the whole drawn into wristband
of embroidered tulle Fancy dress for din
ners serves to break the monotony of regu-
lation styles, and for the woman whose
figure will permit her to wear it there is
nothing prettler, more becoming OF more
effective than the Vatican design.
Treklin offers us a quaint model in POM
padour silk, with overdress and front panel
of the same fabric, but separated by band
of plisse mousseline ribbon in delicate
pastel shade to match the prevailing color
of the silk.
The bodice of silk is interrupted by vest
of gathered mousseline which has an orna-
mantation. almost concealing It,, of ribbon
bows in graduated sizes. The plisse ribbon
extends down each side OF the vest ana out
Ti.,ss.l mo snuare neck The sleeves are OF a
much favored fashion, tight to the elbow
and finished with several fiounces of hand
some lace.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-09-21
Saturday no luck at all.

u.
1t is considered unlucky to change the date
OF a wedding after it once has been deter
mined upon, and for that reason many cere-
monies are performed under adverse circum-
stances sooner than suffer an alteration of
the plans.
All brides rejoice when the wedding day
is bright one, for they remember the oft
quoted line, Happy is the bride that the
sun shines on If the maiden to be wed
can squeeze out a few tears OH her wedding
day-and this is not usually dificult-it is
said to insure her future happiness.
1t is an old custom for the bride to cut the
first slice from her wedding cake. This cake
must invariably contain ring, which will
signify a speedy marriage to the lucky per-
son finding it.
The bridesmaid who catches the brides
bouquet will be the first one Of the guests to
be married. 1t must be remembered, though,
that thrice a bridesmaid, never bride"
1t is also said that no maiden who desires
to be wed ever should sit upon IA table. as
this unconventional resting place will prove
a bar TO matrimony.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-09-21

lace will lead all the lace styles this fall
and winter. Plauen is in the lead, with
point de Venise a close second in point OF
favor; while for light and airy effects moth
ing is more fashionable than point Alien
con, especially in repousse effects, the new
Roman lace, point Paraguay designs and
Chantilly, an old favorite.
Some novelties in lace which promise to
have great prominence this winter are the
"tailor-made costume" lace and the darned
flet net designs, with heavy raised lace out
lines. One style runs to the reponsse, or
punched effects, as manufacturers can
them, and the other to the very heavy raised
designs. Point d Alencon is the best exam
pie of the one, and Plauen lace Of the other.
English Nottingham and point de ven
Use and the rich silk Calais laces have the
raised effect, combined with open meshes
under the designs, and carry out the new
Vatican patterns, which are mingled with
detachable medallons of roses, often haV-
ing overlapping leaves and punched IN cen
tiers. Roses, oak leaves in natural sizes,
punches of grapes and clover leaves vie with
one another for favor, and the rose appears
in all the new fine laces, while the other
designs appear only in certain styles.
Guimpes of tiny oak leaves and little
punches of grapes are desirable, while guam
titles of the Vatican patterns are being sold
to exclusive customers who like their unique
beauty. These laces come in widths vary
ing from half an inch to and 10 inches
in width in applques, and in 1S-inch lengths
for fiounces. AppliqueS in new laces are OF
irregular outline. The idea seems to be to
give a pointed effect, without an actual
point, and in most cases to combine sort of
zigzag effect with the points. Laces are
made in deep, irregular points, with at
least a foot between the upper and lower
nointS.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-09-21
Novelties In BraidS And Collars,

Never have lace and braid trimmings been
as elaborate and popular as now. There has
been tendency, especially on the part o.
French designers, to combine lace with
braid, aud this is shown in all classes OF
trimmings and made-up articles for feminine
adornment Lace robes show the new styles
Of braid upon lace to a great extent. Some
are full suits, consisting of waists and skirts
of lace net in ecru, champagne and ivory
shades. with elaborate designs formed OF
rich silk braid in widths of one-eighth to a
quarter of an inch wide all over the net.
Some of the robes have the designs carried
>cut in Il narrow silk braid, with little loops
Along the edges. The German robes, al
though in the same shades of net, are quite
different, and although more artistic in de-
sign, are less sought after. These are OF the
ARREST net and have several rows of deep
lace designs set in the net around the robe
In III apron-front effect. The lace is rich in
quality and beautiful in design, and is made
in detachable pieces so that similar lace
may be purchased by the yard for any elab
GRAFTON of the robe desired.
Into the material are set medal+ionS in
pointed or wreath styles, often i'll an outer
medallion of tilet net. The contrast of the
tict net with the Brussels is charming, and
the idea is carried out upon the bodice and
sleeves of the robes. These robes range in
price from SIS up. Net robes, sown with
pearls in three sizes and with black, cup
shaped spangleS, are smart. The repousSe
effect is beautifully carried out in one robe
os Brussels net by an elaborate design of vine
leaves all over the robe, with large clusters
of lace grapes. Flounces for the sleeves
come in the same lace
Leading Styles in Lace.
There are indications that Plauen, point
de Venise and the varieties of heavy-darned
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-09-21

rlDbon The same number Of black velvet
bands outline the square cut throat of the
simple corsage, and a pointed arrangement
+ troops over the sleeves. These latter are
thoroughly in keeping with the simple grace
OF the whole gown, and display neither frllls
nor applied ornamentation, except just over.
the curve of the shoulder. Bands of Irish
crochet lace are laid over the lace corsageto
simulate slightly rounded bolero.
Though Irish lace has had a vogue for
several successive seasons, there promises to
be no abatement in itspopularity. The new
est pieces in this exquisite trimming some
what suggest the painting of the lily, for the
graceful leaves and wheels are deliberately
embroidered in colored crewelS to represent
trailing vinesa and clusters of purple grapes.
Wide collars, capes, boleros and short
fancy jackets, as well as bands, are wonder
fully pretty and effective in this style,
though it requires a little familiarity with
the idea to thoroughly appreciate the posi-
bilities in the use Of dull-hued crewels upon
+ delicate, hand-wrought lace meslTes.
Fresh butter color will be one of the novel
ties for dinner dresses this winter, and Cam
bon gives US today a handsome demi-toilet
that combines embroidered linon in this pale
tint with gaily Powered Louis Seize jacket
The front of the slightly trained skirt has
two founces of this daintily wrought linon,
the upper one overlapping the other to within
a foot of the bottom. :. Both founces are
tucked vertically in thick clusters, and by
this means there is secured a sufficient full
ness about the feet without having clumsy
effect at the waist and hips
The Louis jacket is Of rich MORE silk,
stamped with deep pink roses upon butter
eolored ground. There are plated lapels
falling over the bust, which are separated
by dainty vest of pale butter colored nous
seine. Where the silk is cut away, each
side of the front to show the vest, there is
row of tiny silk and mousseine rosettes
in lieu of the customary jeweed buttons.
, The sleeves fit closely to the upper part
of the arms, and where they are cut off at
the elbow there is finish composed of-sev-
eral overlapping friIls of fine lace. At the
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-09-21

In the way Of dress trimmings, the winter
may be heraded as a period in which laces
and embroderies are to reign supreme.
Every dinner gown that has been turned
out so far is a mass of rich crochet, cluny,
Venice or some other fashionable lace, or
else it is beautifully embroidered crea ton
in dull gold or silver upon 4 ground of tilm-
est tulle.
Black and white sound the very highest
note of modishness, though soft, delicate col
ors are always lovely enough to find suffi-
Gent number Of advocates among the fair.
OF all the fruit novelties that were intro
duced season ago by way of trimmings
the only survival is the grape, and even this
has lost its ripe, luscious coloring. The idea
now seems to be to have the softly padded
disks wrought in paler tints, and further
enhanced by means of silver or gold en-
broidery. One exquisite bit of imported
dress ornamentation represented leaf and
vine effect in cream mouSseline, outlined
with embroidery done in silver. AT regular
intervals there depended from this wavy
band great full punches of pale lavender,
pink blue and white tinted grapes. The
fruit was worked in a covering stitch, with
bebe ribbon, and each separate grape had
an outline of dull silver threads.
Armand offers q suggestion for the use of
trimming after this fashion in the dinner
gown made Of square meshed lace in pale
ecru upon silk foundation of the same
shade
The allover lace has tiny dots to form
squares, and the entire skirt and corsage are
ncrusted with great punches of beautifully
made grapes. The fruit is in varying shades
of pale purple, while instead of silver or
gold embroidered vines each cluster hangs
from graceful sprays of, tiny twigs and
leaves made of black Chantilly lace Reach
ing from belt to hem are two rich bands of
Irish crochet lace, the center one extending
in straight line and those at the side
branching at the knees.
A full frill of the net finishes the extreme
bottom of the gown, and this is decorated!
with three graduated rows of black velvet
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-09-21
Something old and something new,
Something borrowed and something blue.


to wear
Something old andssomething new,
Something borrowed and something blue.
These particular stockings possessed his
tory dealing entirely with the old adage, to
which brides invariably give heed, notwith-
standing the severity of their frowns at
childish superstitions upon other and less
momentous occasions. The hose were orig
inally presented by Miss Abby Turner to
Miss Mary e. Wales, with the understand
ing that she should wear them when mar
ried. But as the wedding of Miss Wilkins.
who is a friend of Miss Wales, occurred be-
fore the owner of the stockings had chance
TO wear them herself, she turned them over
to the bride to use upon the happy OCCASION
Then Miss wilkins passed them on to this
bride, who will in course of time present
them to some other bride, doubly lucky in
downing stockings twice blessed.
Few brides care to go to the altar without
complying with the old adage. Something
old, is frequently the wedding veil itself,
which, if of good lace, is handed down as an
heirloom to be worn by all the brides of a
family. Something new is hard to get
away from, as the garments of bride are
usually of self-evident freshness Some
thing borrowed is easily complied with-a
pin, ring or hairpin answering every pur-
pose. Something blue" is often pair OF
silk garters, or knot of ribbon tucked away
amid the laces of the lingerie.
A sure talisman against spinsterhood is
said to be the wearing Of yellow garters.
which have an especial value, the wise ones
say, if presented to maidens on Easter SIM
day. But should bride present one of her
yellow garters-which have served their MIR.
pose in her own case-to friend. then If is
ordained that that lucky Individual might as
well begin preparations for her own wed.
ding, for it is sure to follow In short order
superstitious bride will never entirely
don her wedding costume until the time for
the ceremony, as to do SO. is supposed IN
bring bad luck. =
Neither will she allow her prospective hus.
band to see her In bridal array until he meets
her at the altar. or as near to that fine as
can be conveniently managed. 49, q
In dressing herself for her weddino Tho
bride must remember to put on her r;sb+
shoe first if she wishes to have a banny
married life. s.
The wedding ring must be circlet Of gold !
signifying endless devotion, and ii mnsf not
be tried on before the ceremony nor ltal-ens
from the finger afterward.
No girl will be happy bride who has NOT
at least in some little particular assisted IN
the making of her wedding gown or the
mixing Of her bridal cake.
There is an ancient rhyme running in this
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-09-21

Ashamed to be seen.
Married in blue,
You'll always be true.
Married in pearl,
You'll live in a whirl
Married in yellow,
Ashamed of the fellow.
Married in brown,
You'll live out of town.
Married in pink,
Your spirits will sink
If a bride be very thoughtful and also
superstitious she carries a rabbits foot
somewhere about her when married
May used to be regarded us desperately
unlucky month for weddings, but as it
comes at the loyeliest season of the wear
custom and convenience have ban;shed
superstition and now the evil ban is said to
be removed.
In the selection of a day il is interesting
to remember the old rhyme which says:
Monday for health,
Tuesday for wealth,
Wednesday the best day of all!
Thursday for crosses,
Friday for losses,
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-09-21

Married in white,
You have chosen all right.
Married in gray,
You will go far away.
Married in black,
You will wish yourself back.
Married in red,
You'd better be dead.
Married In green,
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1902-09-21
For Brides Who
Want To Be Lucky.

At a recent wedding the bride wore pair
of blue silk stockings which were loaned to
her by Mrs. Charles Freeman, better known
as Miss Mary E. wilkins, thus complying
with the conditions of the old superstition
compelling bride, if she wished for luck,
to wear
The Republican. [volume] (Oakland, Md.) 1877-current, 1902-05-15

Two miners from Corinth, Just over
the line in Preston county, w. Va,
came down to Oakland on Friday last
and filled up on booze water, later be-
coming involved in a quarrel and
when in front of the McComas build
ing on Second street, one of them,
named Males, threw a rock at the
other, striking him above the eye and
cutting deep cash. Males then ran
to Green street and out the alley back
OF the Touring mill. In crossing the
bridge he fell and rolled into Wilson
Creek dislocating his arm at the elbow
and breaking that member above the
wrist. He was followed by a crowd
after he threw the rock but could not
be seen and after falling he lay for an
hour OF more without making his
presence known. Both had their in
juries dressed by Drs. McComas and
Legge. Males was placed under ar
rest and spent the night in Jail and
on Saturday was fined S. and costs
by Police Justice Gender.
The Republican. [volume] (Oakland, Md.) 1877-current, 1902-05-15
OAKLAND NORMAL SCHOOL.
DIR. u. W. McCOmas' Lecture to the Glasses
Music by Rasehe Orchestra

DT. u. w. McComas' Lecture to the Glasses.
Music by Rasshe Orchestra.
The pupils of the Normal School of
this place were delightfully."- entertain
"d and well instructed on Friday af-
teruoon last. by the presence OF the
Rns"ht' Family Orchestra end DIR. Fl.
W McCUmas.
After a fine selection by the Orches.
ira Prof. Dewitt Introduced DIR. Nc
Comas. who was rather a surprise up.
Oh the platform, rs the doctor has
not let his capabilities in this direc-
tion be- known. He said he had ar
ranged a talk upon The Proper
Preparation of Food" but a notice
froIu patient caused him to Law
aside this plan and speak. upon the
general structure of the body, leaving
particulars to be dwelt upon in the
future when more time may be given
him.
A large chart was used to illustrate
his remarks made upon the epidermis,
muscles, parts of the head, internal
organs of the trunk, and the very
wonderful sympathetic nervous sys-
TEN. AS an illustration of the beau
tiful mechanism of the eye, he had
procured two eyes from a butcher.
These he dissected and reused great
interest in the wonder of their con-
struction. This interest, however,
was not second to that manifested in
the examination of heart, similarly
obtained.
In speaking of the heart and circu-
lation of the blood, DIR. McComas
gave practical advice upon the best
thing to be done in emergencies. He
had number of drawings of the or
gans of circulation and all were pro-
fOundlY sorry when he said he must
close his lecture.
The pupils feel that DIR. McComas
gave lesson in Rhetoric as we'll as
in Physiology. Every sentence so
well rounded, so full of meaning, it is
more than hint to students to study
conciseness in thought and clearness
in expression. How he said so much
in so short time can not be under
stood, except by those who know that
what he says is to the point.
The students listened with great
attention and at the close of the lee
ture a vote of thanks was rendered
the doctor, with cordial invitation
to come again, which latter | believe
he promised to do. After another
selection by the Orchestra, DIR. Scott,
of the NJ. f. church, who had come in
during the lecture, was prevailed up
on to make few remarks. He was
heartily welcomed, and gave a good,
CHEEKY talk
Then more good music and the
school was dismissed. After having
expressed part of their thanks to the
Orchestra and given them hearty
invitation to come again all took
their way homeward, to think with
pleasure and profit of the privileges
we enjoy. To our faithful and I'M
firing teachers, who take pains to Sc
cure the best for us and to their
friends. our helpers, once more we
say "Thank You" l..
The Republican. [volume] (Oakland, Md.) 1877-current, 1902-05-15
why Zinc and Grinding?

Zinc combined with lead and oil
forms the toughest paint known, but
they need to be fine to combine. De-
voc lead and zinc is famous for fine
ness.
The Republican. [volume] (Oakland, Md.) 1877-current, 1902-05-15
Estrayed.

A small brindled COW. Liberal re-
ward will be paid for her return. W.
E. Broderick, Oakland, Md.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1902-05-05
SEMI-CENTENNIAL
OF FREEMASONS

The hftieth anniversary of Hawaiian
Lodge. No. II. +. and A. NJ, will be
celebrated this evening at the lodge
room. Masonic Temple. The affair will
take not only the shape OF a review Of
the work OF the order here during the
half century just closing. but also viii
be I'm the nature OF an entertainment,
which will engage the best local talent.
The remarks which will deal with the
history. not only OF the lodge but OF the
craft. and OF current events also. will
consist OF the Introductory addressA by
Master Frederick Whitney. the opening
grafton by r. NJ. William Fessendeh
Allen. an historical paper by p. NJ.
John Adair Hassinger. and an Grafton
by r. @. NJ. Morris M. Estee.
There will be songs by the Dilling-
ham quartette. Mrs. J. r. Mcdonald
Brother ID. II. r. IsenberR. Mrs. Annis
Montague Turner. and a violin solo by
Professor J. II. ANIME. There will be
a welcome and seats for all Freema-
sons and their families.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1902-05-05

there has not been recorded a single
instance where the profit was as great
as 1t might have been with the invest
ment OF the money at home.
With this statement as to the amount
OF capital taken out OF the country di-
rectly. leaving out of consideration the
amounts paid out for the use of Ger
man and English money and the divi-
dends paid to citizens OF those nation
alities. as well to American non-res-
ident owners of shares in the planta-
tions. for these could not even be es-
timated with accuracy. there has been
practically the whole of the profits OF
the twenty years put back into the
country in the form of improvements
in the plantations themselves. or OF the
cities OF the group OF islands.
In this connection Ii must not be
overlooked that there is a factor of ex-
pense which must be counted. but
which cannot be put down with any
approach of accuracy. Into this must
enter the amounts paid ont as COM
missions for the business done for Ha-
wall abroad. then would enter the ques-
ton or freights on tn imports, Of it
self large items agaih.the insurance
features. all thAee. smaNne. fire and
life. being great sifn>S~Ehen 1t is taken
into consideration kDhere Is almost
complete protection caSGed by the own
ers OF property. srs vast sums in per-
sonal insurance. While these sums
would be found to be large ones If 1t
was possible to have them segregated
from the general business OF the COM
munity for the past two decades, there
Is another fector almost as great, the
expenditures by HawaiiaQs in their
tours OF the, world This amount has
been variously estimated by business
men. hut ODE banker has put IL at
above s75o.oe0 annually saying that he
has issued letters OF credit for sums
elers.
The expense. OF the mainland homes
OF yngar men must not be considered a
minute Item. either. for this would ac-
count for a few millions of the total of
the investments Of the period which
showed the greatest prosperity. Then
to these are added by those who con-
slider the entire situation, certain |
other amounts covering investments in |
shipping enterprises. sugar refineries |
and affairs having more or less close |
relation to the main industry of the |
islands. All OF these would account for \
n sum which II placed by a rough /
guess. which is the only way any of the |
business men seen would attempt to
touch it. would be $50. 600. 900. and would
leave s50.000.000 TO be accounted for in
the increase OF the value of Island
This is easily done and
more. for in the opinion of such men as
C. NJ. Cooke and B. F. Dillingham;.
though there is an absolute absence OF
statistics from which TO draw facts for
the support OF the belief. there has
been invested in the Territory in the
twenty-five years past. not less than
'10O. 100000. How to get at the figures
s. OF course, a question which is hard
)f settlement. and of a dozen persons
who have been in business for the score
If years, there. was not one who would ,