Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-06-14
STYLES IN MEMS WEAR
NEWEST CREATIONS FROM EN-
GLISH AND HOME SOURCES.
Athleticism is Mainly Responsible for
the New Mode Where Comfort
is Essential.


From the Hsberdasher.
| Weather which was phenomenally sum-
| mer-like auspiciously opened the spring sea-
son and gave an impetus TO outdoor gather
| ings scheduled for early May. Man and
| his new raiment were strongly in evidence
| at these interesting events, which could not
| have commanded such widespread attention
and distinguished patronage If il had not
| been for the sudden and most acceptable
rise in temperature. The mode, as reflected
| by New York's smart set, seems to be eN-
| ceedingly conservative, and rather English
| in tone. 1t has been season of high hats
| and frock coats and wing collars and as
| cots The tout ensemble of the well-dressed
| man gives one the impression that English
| sartorial standards are being very closely
| adhered to. once We leave formal dress We
| strike the true American type Here find
| little that l did not expect. The standards
| are not radical. Forms and colors are mere
| ly the results of evolution. They seem to
be merged into passed fashions, and do not
| strike one as differing materially from
those of last summer. Sufficient alterations
have been made to keep the new things
away from the ordinary. The wastcoatless
man has appeared on the scene, and he is
very much like the waistcoatless man of
1901.
The appreciable points of difference are
in the shirt, where the pleated bosoms are
prominent, in the low-fold collars and in
the broader four-in-hands. Beyond these
things L find little to chronicle.
New Shirtings.
have seen a great many of the new
shirtings designed for custom made shirts.
These are in white grounds principally, and
ecru or tan grounds are also shown. There
is a marked tendency In the best goods to-
ward well-separated, neatly striped pat
terms These are designed so that they viii,
when made up, show a stripe In the center
OF each pleat. White pleated shirts and
shirts in white and black are very good
Wherever color is used it is used but spar
ingly. White grounds showing blue. black.
indigo, brown, tan, green or red are strong
ly favored The yellow tones have not
been well received, nor would one sup
pose that they would be.
L cannot see any place in mems dress for
weak yellows, effeminate pinks and baby
blues They SAVIOR too much of the boudoir
and the afternoon tea. A man needs be
manly in all things today.
The mode sanctions the strenuous. the
athletic and the muscular. 1t is the we'll
knit well-set-up figure that carries clothes
best, and We are more pleased by the ap-
pearance of the weil-dressed chap of this
type than We were with the listless, stoop-
shouldered, weak individual who was the
fashionable ideal when very short top Goa IS
and tight trousers, spats and high collars
We're the distinguishing marks of the mode
Comfort is Essential.
Athleticism has done a great deal for
dress. 1t has brought US comfortable wear
ing apparel. If it were not for the desire
to appear well set up and thoroughly ath-
letic men would never wear the military
short jacket, the loose, turned-up trousers
the heavy, low-cut shoes, or the easy, COM
Portable leather belts. The college boy, who
is always an extremist in dress, appears
better and is more comfortably clad than
hA hoS Al
said Of the staid business man. Comfort
is essential in mems dress today more than
1t has ever been, and that is due primarily,
II not entirely, to the fact that these are
times when d man. to be any kind of a man
az all, must be patron or active fol-
lower of one of the many outdoor sports
The newest collars, designed for wear dur
ing the warm weather, are of the fold va
rlety. They are anywhere between IL and
21a inches high, and the outer fold is A
little bit shorter than the band. The front
of the outer fold touches at the top of the
band in front and then separates gradually
down to the rounded points. When worn
with a four-in-hand these collars stand up
straight. the knot coming out under the
points instead Of in the open space in
front between the folds The collars have
wide stitching. Wing collars are still sell
ing well and may be worn all through the
summer. Among the young men in the uni
versities the old style, spaced front, turned
down collars are worn. They give that
neck freedom which is a necessary REQUIRE
ment of those following the rugged outdoor
sports
Matter of Stocks.
One might have been led to expect that
men would wear hunting stocks in town as
well as about the country from the fowery
reports emanating from over enthusiastic
introducers. OF course, this is not to be
taken too seriously. Men of good taste will
wear stocks when riding, playing golf, or
loating about the country. but they will not
wear them in town with their business
sults-not if they know anything
The four-in-hand will, undoubtedly. be
the cravat of the season. 1t will be on.
straight. and will vary in width from 2la
inches to IA inches The better shops show
the broader forms. The patterns are va
ilous but the disposition to stick to center
bars panels and peculiar designs made to
nj the four-in-hand only find favor in pop
ular trade. The high grade articles show