Omaha daily bee., 1902-09-14

a scarf Of the great panne. THU was tied
at the bust in a fat bow. a smaller one
forming a cravat at the throat.
A frock Of the unpretentious family was
even more fetching. anording as It did a
glimpse Of things possible for the woman
OF restricted means. Brown was also the
color Of this charming gown, the material
a heavy wool canvas as soft as flannel. A
deep Killed skirt hounce was matched by a
bodice killed all over. the heavily pressed
pleats hanging loose from the silk lining.
The top part of the skirt was stitched
about the hips and knees in the way now
so much seen and revers and cuffs Of white
cloth embroidered with coral-pink and
black-begayed the waist. Contrasting
richly with these emroideries was an edge
Of pale green cloth. for green. it seems. is
to touch up everything.
The one skirt OF the coming season which
is distinctly new has a habit back b]uttoned
from belt to hem. This does not show the
founce prevailing elsewhere, but is made
with a riding skirt plainness and chiefly in
walking lengths. Another newish and eff
fectiYe skirt Is in shallow side pleats,
with one huge box pleat at the back, mar
rowing at the top. At the bottom the pleat
flares tremendously and as it lies every
where very UdllN. the effect Is extremely
odd. suggesting on too slim wearers that
the skirt is put on hind side before on
graceful figures. however. such jupes are
stunning.
other skirts show many variations Of the
graduated founce, and all gored skirts
have the apron breadth extremely narrow.
It is wonderful what an improvement these
almost straight and narrow front cores are
to large hips. They almost seem to de-
crease weight, SO SHINING are they. And
since they appear in the newest models a
wide skirt front is a sure indication that
you are not up to the subtleties of fashion
In short 1t is the detail which makes the
elegant gown nowadays.
New Things in Millinery.
New hat shapes are displaying a fatness
which may in time be anything but beau
tifying. Already some very nearly re-
semble the homely dinner plate, and the
most modest models all show trimmings put
on to emphasize low round broad effects.
On the right head certain huge sailors
are not without charm, II they are startling
to a degree; and some little three-cornered
cbapeaux, simply and compactly trimmed,
appeal to fairly reasonable tastes. A cocky
little French hat in three-cornered shape
Is made OF tucked felt, the highest weight
imaginable. Big side %rosettes distinguish
the best Of these, the ribbons used being
sometimes a brilliant blue on black.
The big sailors have shallow rolled brims
and wide crowns too low to be seen above.
The trimmings OF these are also mainly
ribbons, with wings and breasts put on as il
glued. Nothing is allowed to stand up on
such headgear.
Chapeaux which incline to more elaborate
treatment are the scooDing shapes-far
over the face and short in the back-worn
this long while. New models in these have
the back brim rolled up instead of down as
formerly, with no sign Of the old rear trim
ming over the hair.
Nevertheless some splendid lace wells
will continue the cascading over the hair.
Fashion conceeding the rear fall too en-
tracing to be utterly squelched.
From Paris come the best Of the new
lace wells, which will be worn in loose
hanging curtains with loopsd scarf ends
All have elaborate borders, and even the
made wells in fancy nets are edged In some
way. In putting on such a veil remember
that the border must come below the chin
Otherwise you will look like a warrior from
the wars-bandaged, II you will know the
Word. MARY DEAN.