Bisbee daily review., 1902-09-27
NEW YORK LETTER

New YorA, Sept. 25.-One of the principal subjects of discussion at the American Dressmakers' association, which closed it's session here a few days ago was that of corsets; there fore the perfect form will be the ob- jective point toward which the ener- gies of American modistes will be di- rected during the coming season.
 And indeed physical culture has done so much toward the attainment of this aim that the difficulty will be appreciably lessened. What the phys ical culture fails to do, however. it is intended that the corset shall make up. The latest vagary from corsetland is a delightful affair. which is calcula- ted to keep up the diaphram without restricting it. force the stomach in and increase the back hips. The re- suit of such a corset is not only a perfect fit. but an exceedingly chic exterior effect and as one of the mem bers of the association put it. you are as happy on the inside as on the out side.
 Apropros the gowns which are to adorn these perfect figures. it may be said that many will be developed in velvet But the regulation silk vel vet will be replaced during the fall and winter by the richer and more pl.dble Banne.
 Popular incles toward the lustrous fabrics and even cloths which are list ed among the smart materials are most highly finished They are roush-sur- faced materials, of course, but these are more for general use and even tney are stitched plentifully with bands of smooth faced goods.
 The spotted pannes ditinguished as leopard effects are smart and extreme N pretty. The coloring too, are rich though it is seldom that more than two tones are seen in one gown and the trimmings correspond with the figures scattered over the usually light CT shade background.
 For instance, a frock of euchre tan with a slightly reddish tint is spotted with autumn leaf brown figures. The skirt is built with medium-sized plaits at the back and there are inverted plaits at each side of the front.
 The vest of the jacket is composed of exquisite cream lace striped with panne and the jacket bears inverted plaits at both the front and back.
 The popular postillion effect IS shown in the sleeve, which is held above the wrist by two large military buttons.
 Completing the costume is a hat spreading picture hat of ecru panne velvet with a crown of autumn leaves finished at the back with a rosette of liberty satin ribbon.
 Of course. the cost of such gown makes it impossible for the woman whose dress allowance is limited to a few dollars for an entire seasons supply, but there are much less ex' pensive fabrics. duplicating the same effect. which may be made up very artistically if one has the patience to execute the various little details shown in the original design.
 After all there is not so much elabo ration upon the new seasons gown as there is detail. It is the small things that count in time as well as cost, but they really constitute the success of a gown and must be added if one would be strictly la mode.
 Present indications lead to the be lief that this autumn will be an ex ceptionally mild one and for that reas on it will be late bfore wraps are donned. However, smart little jackets will be worn and brown, black. dull green. purple-blue and red will bt much in vogue One delightful little basaue-jacket carried out in Duchess of Marlborough green-a soft dark tone affected by our little American Duchess during her recent visit here boasts a very full blouse which opeus over a vest of hand-painted lace Black silk frogs on either side of the vest on the material and form drap cry of silk cords across the front
 Painted lace Is one of the extrava sancies of the season, but it will ot worn more than is generally imagined because there are so many women o artistic talent who can design these patterns for themselves with pittle expense. Embroidered laces are also de rigeur, but only the expensive vari cites are treated to this form Of dec oration.
 Women who feel that they cannot afford the luxurious velvet gown may be consoled by using the fabric as trimming. A pretty way in which Il may be used is shown in a rich petunia cloth. the skirt being trimmed ]us' below the knees with three tucks oi velvet to correspond. set on loosely and not stitched down. At the front the tucks are very narrow. but gradu ate wider behind, while on the hips is a simulated rounded basque of the same trimming.
 The bodice is pouched over a mar
 a rolled collar and cuffs of the velvet.
 The greatest variety is shown in sleeves, but the voluminous enect be low the elbow is apparent in all. This effect, however, is invariably graceful Tucks. appliques and various little de captions employed to dispose of any