The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1902-04-19
PARIS FASHIONS.
Popular Favor Points to Cloth as Ma
terial Most in Vogue.

ferials is one of the most lmportan
ones at present and popular favo
seems to indicate cloth as the materia
most in vogue; indeed, the preference
for cloths is decidedly marked, particu
larly as the new cloths are so light il
texture. so perfect in finish, and s.
supple that they replace a large mum
Der of materials. Formerly cloth i'm
piled a heavy. difficult material t
handle, which was really only fitted 70
tailor gowns but cloth today has
reached such perfection and is fabr1
Gated in so many varied textures tina
it has. for the present season at least
become the material par excellence FOL
almost every description of gown.
Of course the great advantage which
cloth possesses over other materials Is
that ii maintains its form and does moi
easily wrinkle or muss, and if lined
with a good quality Of taffeta preserves
its fresh appearance until the last
while for the economical woman it has
another inestimable quality, which is
that 1t can be dyed and turned and
thus almost restored to its original good
appearance.
OF the new materials there is an in
finite variety to choose from, and dot
ted. striped and embroidered goods are
shown in every hue. Lustrous finish is
much in demand and as a contrast
hair-finish, with long white or black
hair sparingly distributed over the sur
face. The light materials with little
linen thread in them reproaching the
canvas cloths are also in demand, and
for dusty weather, so often prevalent in
spring and summer seasons, nothing is
more useful or more serviceable.
Next in Importance to the materials
is the color shade fashionable one
season is passe the next. Black and
white will, it is predicted, be the rage
fancy which seems to return period
ically. every five years. For evening
wear I have already noted the return
TO black and white, black lace or tulle
over white satin being a favorite COM
bination, but the black and white street
gown is just coming in and is exceed
ingly smart.
Light black cloth with white vests.
collars. cuffs and even white incrUsta-
tons. are shown among the newest
models. White and black fouards,
with white designs printed on them,
and trimmed with heavy white lace,
are already being ordered. The most
effective of all the black gowns for
street wear, however, created by the
great houses of the Rue de la PaiX. are
a discreet note of white about them.
For dressy gowns the coutouriers
most in vogue are using black crepe de
chine, making it up in a kind of a
flowing. draped style. which admirably
suits the matinee. Later in the sea-
son a great organdie viii be in the
height of fashion, and new models for
the really summer season are being
designed in this material, so dear to
the hearts Of our grandmothers. Lace
and ribbon WILL Of necessity, be the
popular trimming for Organdie gowns.
While black will be in the height of
favor. there viii naturally be other
colors worn, and among these the most
recherche may be said to be green. blue
and apricot-the latter considered |
among the new shades" a soft, de- |
lightfu tone of which one does not !
easily tire. The reign of red, which for !
some little time during the winter ap-
peared threatening, is over, and 1 notice |
no new red gowns for the coming sea- |
sons. In the new trimmings those most /
marked are embroidery incrustations /
in black thrown into Yelief by being |
placed on white satin. OF course. /
stitching, bands of cloth, and braid will |
always be correct, but less of novelty |
than the trimming described. Wide !
linen and lace marine collars are still |
worn with every kind of gown, and al
ways add light, dressy note to any
toilet Many Of these collars are made
separately and can be varied at will.
Plaits will be much worn, both for
corsages and skirts, stitched in every
kind Of way, grouped in small or large
groups separated by strips of trimming
lin fact, arranged in every. conceivable
fashion which the clever dressmaker
is able to invent. One of the prettiest
dresses made with plaits was worn re-
Gently at the races. It was of cream
serge. The skirt had a narrow, fat
apron front, at each side of which were
four fiat plaits. Around the bottom
was wide ruffle of guipure. The Qor-
sage was made with fiat plaits, giving
it the form, and held in place by a
MORE ceinture. The sleeves were rather
bouffant as far as the elbows, where
they ended in a series of fat plaits
bound with guipure and MORE. forming
2 wide cuff. A fancy velvet knot in
black, worn a little to the left of the
collar gave the much desired black
and white combination sought this sea-
son.
All attempts to diminish the volume
Of skirts has signally failed The length
has been shortened for certain kinds of
" dlhluS SONlS, DuI the NlQll around ,
the bottom remains unchanged, women
finding the present skirt graceful and
becoming TO almost every figure
Among the prettiest spring toilets
which / have noticed was one silk
cloth" in a soft beige tone. The skirt
was made with three fiat plaits stitched
nearly 10 the bottom. The corsage was
made in a smart blouse jacket form
with trim little basques stopping at
each side of the under arm seams. The
eeinture was pointed in blue stitched
10th, and the collar and cuffs were
ornamented with the blue ,
10th.
A striking walking gown was of light
blue gray cloth. The skirt was made 2
)lain and fiaring at the bottom, its only /
consisting of three rows of +
of deeper toned SAITH run I
ling down each side of the front and .
lround the bottom in the back. The /
-orsage was made with shield-like a
ront, which was trimmed with three a
ows of the silk baQuette. The collar f
vas exceedingly wide, with immense
eVers pointing downward in front 1t a
vas lined with rich, lace and opened q
'ver mousseline de sole vest and col O
ar in white mousseline de sole a
. n
The most dressy Of the toilets in s
question was in mauve silk cloth. The d
kirt was made in two parts. The un- II
Ter part finished in wide boX-like4 d