New-York tribune., 1902-08-29
BIRDS ON FALL HATS.
WAR is PREDICTED BETWEEN AUDI
BONITES AND MILLINERS-WHOLE
BRTMS COVERED WITH TINY
CREATURES.
CREATURES

It is curious fact that the styles in millinery
at the opening of are seldom In vogue
for any length of time. perhaps because tney are
always more extreme than those which 1olIo"
them little later High crowns will be worn III
the fall hats. perhaps two and a half inches
high The brms are be correspondngly mar
rowed, and this tendency means only one thing
the return prominence of the toque and turoan
styles It is predicted that the later season Will
these forms dividing the popularity between
them Some chic, Close small shapes are promised
There is talk of revival of the 1880 bonnet, but
this peril will be short lived, if it comes. lDz
Pompadour and 1880 bonnet would be gro
tesque corbinati ton, and the Pompadour has now
become too thoroughly identified with American
women to be changed for feeting a thing as
one seasons bonnet
A new hat trimming being much talked of is
called Queens lace 1t is pale ecru lace similar
to the Oriental laces in effect 1t is going to be
draped all around of the fall hats, and
sometimes allowed to fall down behind, although
the tab ad nauseam will not be exigeant
feature fall millinery.
Birds and feathers of every description will be
pushed by the trade than for years past II
is to be war to the knife between the Audubon
Society and the big millinery men who control the
styles Birds, big birds, bigger every day, are
coming TO the front Possibly before the season Is
over women will appear with nothing on their
heads but enormous bird. 1t is remarked, how
ever. with gasp of wonder, that. while green is
to remain the color par excellence for fall head
After posing extreme novelty for one
season. this bird to have betaken himself to
his AnaZonian forests. AS matter of fact ex-
treme things permanent among Amer1-
Certain styles. like, for instance,
the made neCkwear introduced a few years ago,
they take up and make permanent, adopting 1t
constituent part of their wardrobe. The most
sanguine dealer did anticipate more than one
seasons popularity for the neckwear when 1t was
introduced but it has become as much an ac-
cepted part OF his stock black silk or blue
polka dot calico. Other new things have run OF
few weeks, and die before the season is
So the really the court of last re-
sort as styles, after all.
Well as to fall hats; feathers to be very
popular. Great prominence Of ostrich. both black
and white-the Audobontes allow ostrich-is pre-
diCted. CoQue plumes in bronze green will be worm
coque in every form, in fact will be one of the
features. Pauen lace and Irish crOchet. in medal
lions and motifs, applied to fat crowns and up
turned brims. will be Jet will be used all
through the season. particularly in aigrettes on the
small hats. Ribbons will be in great quantity
and variety in the lead: also orange electric
blue iron and turquoise. in soft velvet panne,
tafeta, louisne and peau do sole. all soft effects.
1t is to be a great felt year. both in long and
short haired effects. Steel ornaments Will DC
| most generally used Some will be plain others
relieved with rhinestones Gilt and rhinestones and
silver will also be used. and the forms will be
bands, buckles and small cabuchons- Some hats
will be covered with small jet spangles Others
will have leaf applications OF mousseline and jet
To get an idea of the lavish way in which birds
are to used it is only to look at some
pattern hats with broad upturned brims edged with
twenty or more little birds, the velvet ribbon
trimming matching them in color.
Paris millinery is at the moment running 10
new dead white tone. Feathers. materials, every
thing, Is seen in IT. Beautiful hats OF velvet and
panne are shown in IT, trimmed with coque and
ostrich. silk and velvet ribbons ia the same shade
For evening these hats are absolutely unre-
IIeved by color Queen 5 lace and these an an Gnlte %
hats the new ideas OF the moment In the Paris
millinery world. Paris putting out lovely matched
made of velvet elaborately trimmed with ostrich
feathers or ribbons Charming creations Of CHIFFON
ON these French matched sets Metal beads like
wise edorn Paris hats glowing brilliantly on dark
velvet backgrounds: They are seen especially on
Among the early pattern hats seen in q New
York house says THE Dry Goods Economist" was
one In which both upper and lower brim were or
brown fur The black velvet crown covered
with irish crochet, and long white ostrich plume Te
swept from front to back broad ormmed nat
showed crown and upper brim made entrely 3t
the lower brirn was of light yellow velvet loosely
gathered. Leaves of jet and mousseline were laid
placed little to the left Of the front and sweep
ing downward over the back was long aS oacE
upward twist to the large brim on the left side
4 felt shape had the lower brim of plain red felt
and the upper of longhaired weave IN blue and
green relieved by dots OF the red The only Trim
ming was a bird about the size of crow. laid on
the upturned brim. a medium sized form In black
portion Of the lower being OF black velvet, with
estn s ple eaves % embossed and Connected with vine
effect in silk embroidery a silver ouckle ana a
oval In shape with low crown and turned up brim:
and trimmed with bright green velvet ribbon. Two
bronze green wings were laid on hat rather
White panne, crown OF white worsted. edge of jet
covered net. and white ostrich plume.