The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-01-26
DRESS in THE SMART SET
WHAT 1T COSTS FASHIONABLE
WOMAN TO KEEP THE PACE.
Very Extravagant Outlay and a Ward
robe That Must Make Life
Burden TO the Owner.
PHILADELPHIA Times.

way?"
The inquiry, apropos Of the alleged re-
mark to the ability to dress on $500 a
year, was addressed to fashionable Amer
lean woman.
We'll, since we've nothing else to do this
rainy afternoon" she replied. II will just
get out my gowns and tell you what each
o. them cost"
And soon the creations" were spread all
about, rainbow heaps on chair and couch.
Their description will give Idea of the
necessary sinews of war of any woman who
presumes to be smartly gowned.
First, group of perfectly new gowns for
dinner and evening wear suitable for any
thing excepting a ball. There is a delicate
cameo pink crepe de chine. a dainty,
Frenchy little thing. with it's long sash Of
black chiffon and black velvet ribbon, fin
ished with pink rosebuds. distinguishing
mark Of the smart French gown being a
touch of black somewhere. Next comes a
demure little ingenue thing made of white
Algerine silk and trimmed with a gauze
ribbon and narrow ruffies of Chantilly lace.
There are touches of frosty turquoise blue
about the bodice, and lace butterflies set at
intervals on the collar, sleeves and belt
The smart woman has different MOODS,
and she has gown to express each one;
II she might be little maid from scnooI
in this blue-and-white frock, the next is a
distinctly woman -the-world gown. Long,
svelte, clinging black crepe de chine, en-
broidered in black gauze ribbon, with roses
and loose-falling tendrils; a full-petaled
color from throat to hem; it is a gown that
recalls some half-fOrgotten lines about the
trailing garments of the night. II the
black gown is poetic. the next is artistic.
and q painter would love TO study the
smart woman in 1t. 1t is black grenaoine
empire Powered with dull red poppies the
edge of the skirt and of the yoke hsaped
with soft, heavy, slumbrous black poppy
leaves. With this dress is worn dog col
lar of dull red coral beads just matching
the red poppies-a modest little collar, cost
ing only 1925.
A more stately and elaborate "confec-
ton is a princesse of white Chantlly lace
silk rosebuds, and forget-me-nots upon
chiffon about II. The smart woman liked
this so well that she has ordered 1t re-
peated in blue.
Then there is a glove-f1tting princesse
gown, for dinner evening, OF black
Lyons velvet, made to wear either with or
black Russian lace The black velvet gown
cost $500 the yoke and sleeves OF the Rus
sian lace alone being worth $40. The Chan
lilly gown and its blue replica are $500 or
$3.50 apiece. The other gowns described Will
cost on an average 500 apiece. This will be
taken as the bottom figure for a dinner or
evening gown in which any woman VINO
pretends TO be smart" can appear
BUT THREE BALL GOWNS.
Among the older gowns of the Smart
Woman, not yet discarded, one finds the
indispensable black-and-whi in this case
black Chantilly lace over white satin; cost,
$3.50; an almost equally Indispensable
palette" gown. a nearly solid mass of
jet, $500; pearl gray taffeta, trimmed with
much black French lace. $3.50; a yellow Rus
sian lace over satin, 500.
AS this particular Smart Woman seldom
goes TO balls, she has only three ball
gowns. One is the black velvet, which she
will economically utilize for the purpose by
emitting the woke and sleeves. Then there
is heavy ivory and gold satin brocade,
which, brought straight off the looms at
Venice, cost $40 a yard, and made up over
there, where everything is much cheaper.
cost $500 Her Paris ball gown is of cream
Lyons lace, sewn thickly with gold pail
lettes, and embroidered with heavy leaves
in gold thread, spangled with brilliants;
cost 81 800; with the gold serpent hair
Passing to the gowns for outdoor wear,
there is a new tailOr-made frock OF the new
zibeline, a sort of mohair. 1t has a Rus
sian blouse and IL Aiglon' collar, and is
worn with a boa and muff of silver fox
which cost $3.50. The gown is $50. There
is a black broadcloth combined with taft
feta, which spells "chic" in every fold,
from shop in the Rue Auber, which cost
$3.50 on the other Side-it would be 500 or
$225 here. The hat that, goes with this
gown is a little black velvet affair, quite
covered with pale blue birds. and cost $50
in the Rue de la Paix. There is an every
day street dress with black velvet skirt,
and natty little black and gold cloth
Jacket to wear over shirtwaist, which
cost $780,
But her new and swell gown for outdoor
this winter is a regal thing OF golden
brown Lyons velvet, richly trimmed with
sable. The sweeping skirt is adorned with
a row of Russian sable tails and the cufrs
and reVers Of the bolero jacket and the
Medici collars are of the fur. The gown,
as il stands, with the sable, would cost
$1,100 at the lowest figure on this side. The
Gainsborough hat, made OF irish point, and
trimmed with whole sable, the head
caught in front with the lace, and further
ornamented with choux and Quillings in
pleting and finishing touch to the costume,
that which gives its final touch OF originall-
soft brown silk leaves, like the tobacco
leaf in color and design This pretty ac-
cessory-one of those imported things of
which there are no two ahke-cost $50.
With ii my lady carries purse OF gold net
with a little watch surrounded by diamonds
set near the clasp; cost, $500.
VARIOUS ODDS AND ENDS.
So, when she is gowned in this costume
the Smart Woman is carrying nearly $1,000
upon her person, exclusive of her jewels
ana the contents Oh neT purse 1HlS par
ticular dress was made for the New York
Horse Show and was exactly suitable for
that occasion. 1t is also a carriage or visit
ing dress, or she will wear it to an after
noon reception, or to the morning must
Gales. Some of the other things which go
to make up the Smart Womans wardrobe
are the following:
Carriage coat of black broadcloth,
lined with cream satin. ................. $3.50
TailOr-made cloth jacket................ s.
Gray coaching coat. 80
Riding 200
Opera cloak cream satin brocade,
trimmed with ermine. Observation-Disclosures. 200
Opera cloak, cafe-au-lait ladyS cloth,
trimmed with mink. 165
TrOttOir, or sidewalk skirt for shop
Rainy-day skirt. three one-half
inches from ground.................... so
Golf skirt, two inches from ground :. 30
Breakfast dress, figured foulard........ 90
White flannel yachting Suit.............. 100
Two China silk kimonas, $40 EACH. so
Two silk matinees, SIS each.............. 80
One dozen shirt and fancy waists,
from the ordinary, plain, cheap shirt
waist at SIC, TO the imported waist
of Cluny lace at $3.50. 500
Six hats, ranging from $50 to $75 each. 800
Russian blouse Of best quality of Rus
sian sable, matching the great car
Total (omitting the coral collar and the
i