The National tribune., 1902-02-13
MAIL FOR THE
FARTHEST NORTH.
Shedding a Thousand Miles Over
Snow and Through Storms to
KOtzebue, Alaska.
BY FRANCIS II. CAMPBELL.


Last year the Government decided to
send mail to Kotzebuc. Alaska, and in
early March the carrier. w. s. Flanagan
and | started for our thousand-milc jour
ney over the ice fields. The course was
from near st. Michaels in Il northcastcrly
direction to KotZebue, returning by Cape
Prince of Wales. Port Clarence. Teller,
Nome, Golovin Bay and Norton Bay.
Our train, consisting Of six heavily
coated Alaskan dogs, drew the mail: our
decrskin sleeping sack. food, a shotgun.
snow-shoeS, cooking utensils. n stove anC
other supplies upon n light birch sled built
for this special trip-a load altogether
of $50 pounds, which would gradually di-
minish as we proceeded.
On our first day out we met stiff
north breeze. The thermometer showed
four degrees below zero. About noon the
wind increased, and as | turned to talk
to the carrier he Informed me that my
chin was badly frozen. 1t took some time
to thaw it out with snow. Shortly after
we stopped long enough to make Il cup
of tea and ate few cold biscuits and
doughnuts In the afternoon the wind
blew so hard that it became necessary
at times to creep from one snow patch to
another on the wind-swcpt ice, and we
did not arrive at the bunk house, -
miles from our starting point, until long
after dark.
A bunk" house is an Arctic hotcI
made of logs, with moss chinks, dirt
roof and dirt floor. \ shcet-iron stove
keeps it warm. Two rows Of hunks Gov
cred with grass or brush extend along
the walls. The old-fashiOned string and
latch hold the whip-sawed door closed,
and there is a place to cook the meals.
Staying over night costs 81.
We made an early start in the morning,
but the wind was 50 strong that We We're
glad to step in native cabin after IS
miles Of hard travel. Afraid that 0ur dog
food would run short. | obtained l. ptar-
migan, mt 25 cents anipce, from the ma
tives. The dogs on the trail are fed but
once a day, and the two birds We threw
TO each were quickly devourcd, feathers
and all
The next day was bright and clear
with but little wind. and we reached the
mouth of the Koyuk River at the head
of Norton Bay, the point where our port
age across 70 Kotzebue begins. WE sur
missed that now the worst part of Our
journey was TO begin, for often the soft
snow is 50 deep that only Il few miles can
be made each day, and those are miles
which represent the packing of trail
with snowshocs for the dogs and sled. But
we were fortunate. Strong winds had so
driftpd and packed the snow that il snn-
rortcd easily the weight of dogs and sup
plies. In the evening of tn" first day
upon the portage, just as the sun was
losing itself from sight behind the snow
clad mountains we found lone log cabin
nestled in among the tall pines Uuon the
hank Of the river. II was deserted the
door was half oren and snow law upon
the floor, but it was protection. Our fire
was soon going. and we made n stew Of
some birds we had shot during the day
We were hardly asleep when two of rhc
dogs began fighting vcouSly. but they
soon stopped. Indeed, ] know Of no an
imal more fond Of fighting than the Es-
kimo dog 1t is their mode of making
each others acquaintance. have seen
three full teams join III one universal
fight while in the harness.
The next morning was bitterly cold. and
we were to cross thc divide from the KO-
yuk over to the right fork Of the Buck
land. The ascent was q long. gradual
slope down which Il small creek came Rv
noon we were on the divide. but above
the timber line. We could see the trees.
though. on the river from which we had
come and bevond in the direction we were
travelling. We stopped only a minute for
lunch for we knew of an iglnv, or native
underground house. or the river below rs
and wished to reach il that night. All
the afternoon we hurried on, and had half
made up our minds TO camp in the snow
when. as we rounded bend. we saw
mound Of snow on the river bank. 1t had
no door and no windows, hut the snow
was banked on dirt walls. Spruce houghs
within made good beds however. and af-
ter supper we slept the sleen of the tired
The next day we passed through n conn
try noted for ptarmignn, the Arctic prairie
chicken. They would fly up before MS
in flocks and. lighting on bushes. would
anpear as great snowflakes dropping from
the sky. During the Winter season they
frequent the streams. for they live on the
buds of the trees and bushes. This was
our third day of travelling without, seeing
anyone, but that night brought us to three
native isloys, where the women sewed
and patched our boots. cooked our dog
feed, carried us wood and water and gave
s:& the stove to cook unon. They besieged
us with curios in trade for handful OF
sugar, cupful of tea. some crackers, un-
i'll we feared for our supplies; they
showed us their skins of fox and marten /;
brought the sick TO be healed, and when
bedtime came gave us the platform or
bed while two of the boys slept ON the
floor.
The following morning as We started
out in the light of the waning moon the
cole was intense. 1t grew colder during