Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1902-05-31
STYLES IN MEMS DRESS
A GENERAL REVIEW OF THE
SUMNER FASHIONS.
Coming Of the Waistcoatless Suits
Breast Pockets in Jackets-The
Newest Belts.

From the Haberdasher.
| 1 am not going TO tie myself down to a
| formal dissertation on the fashions this
| month. but rather to roam all over the
field and set forth in paragraphs descrip-
tons Of the many little oddities and depar-
lures which i have seen and which have
won my favor. 1t is going to be a summer,
think. when men will dress more sensibly
and more artistically than ever. Quality
Will be the foundation upon which all the
really smart styles will be formed. Ex-
clIsiveness Of pattern and fineness of ma
terial will count more than ever. Now that
the military craze has passed We can ridi-
Guile it. and it certainly earned nothing bet
ter. the springy short jackets and the
| trousers la Boulevardier. were anything
| but slightly. This years business and out
| ing suits will be cut on conservative lines.
Jackets will fit closely in front and loosely
in the back. The figure will not be sharp
| ly outlined. Trousers will be cut that
they fall perfectly straight. They will not
be turned up unless designed for purely
outing and rough wear
New Jackets.
The outside breast pocket in Jackets will
be universal. and will be made without
| flaps and cut quite a sharp angle. So
far as length is concerned Jackets should
not be longer than the sleeves. The dou-
ble-breasted Jacket will have three buttons.
1 describe further along the two-button af-
| fair, but this is not a style that has been
! Endorsed by the Smartest dreSsers. 1t is
rather a creation of the ready -to-wear
clothing makers and the cheap tailors.
| Single-brea sted Jackets will close with four
buttons. For outing and golf, Norfolks
| will be good. This coat is not town gar
ment and should only be worn when one
Is cumming about the country or travel
| ing.
In the double-breasted jackets the rough
faced. dark cloths and the serges will be
the favorite materials, while in the single
breasted Jackets one may take any of the
| unfinished worsteds. homespuns Donegals
| or the serges. Combination suits, that is
| suits made up of a dark coat and light
trousers. will be very good. The fiannels
described in previous article.
The Watch Alberts.
One of the most novel, perhaps of the
| distinctively prominent fads of the coming
summer. will be the watch Alberts, which
have become possible on account of the re-
| vival of breast pockets on jackets These
watch Alberts are made of the finest skins
and mounted with small harness buckles
heavily gold-plated. The Alberts are buc-
killed. through the buttonhole in the left lapel
| or the Jacket. and are long enough to ad-
| NIT of the carrying of the watch in the
| breast pocket of the jacket. They are
| about seven inches long and about three
eighths of an inch wide. They come in
skins designed for wear with the different
suits. There is the rich red English levant
for the golf suit, the tan and gray sea lion
| the black Siberian lizard. the black English
| buck. the tan buffalo, the tan pigskn and
the fine black sea lion. for wear with the
| neglige and business suits. All of these
| nave eold-plated mounts. A black sea-lion
Albert. with gun-metal mounts, is design
| ed for weai by men in mourning. There
/ he NOT hit1r nrto #1a,,
| inequality watchguards. OF course if
| they are made cheaply or of poor feathers,
! thew will add little to the general appear
ance of ones summer garb.
Neat Belts
| In the very finest belts I have noticed a
| tendency to depart from the purely har-
| ness-made affairs. 1t is the same old story
of being ruined by cheapness. Belts any
| where from seven-eighths -of an inch TO
one and one-eighth of an inch wide are
proper. The best width is one inch
very good model is the belt made of En-
| glish foxskin 1t is a black belt with the
| outside piece and the lining made of the
same skin. These are very neatly stitched
| together. The buckles are light and of the
| harness patterns. The rein buckle is best
| They are very heavily gold-plated. Unlined
| pigskins are also good. In the best shops
| the solid belts are the only ones shown,
and one sees very little in the way of
nickel mounts. So far as colors are con-
cerned. black and tan cover the assort-
| ment. I am speaking now of the finest
| handmade belts articles that must be re-
| tailed at something over 81 each. The
| best-dressed men now demand exceedingly
neat belts of the very finest materials. and
when such standard is aimed at costli-
ness must not be considered.
A Variation in Suits
One of the new suits that are being pro-
NOTED. if 1 may use that term. for sum-
/ &c rio 81
ed, double-breasted jacket, somewhat popu-
lar last year. l think this new model will
meet the approval Of the men in the young
set. who are always looking for that dis
tinctive difference in dress which positive
ly divorces the mode of one season from
that Of another. The new coats will be
| made of serges. worsteds soft tweeds
homesDuns and 6annels. They will be of
moderate length, and will have the side
seams deeply vented There will be an
outside breast pocket without flap and cut
on quite sharp angle, and the usual side
pockets. which will have vents. The collar
will be very narrow and will be cut with
the concave line. while the lapels will not
be much wider than those on a single
breasted Jacket. They will. however, be
very long and will fold down to the first of
the two buttons. These coats really have
three buttons in each row. the third button
shows in its proper place, but is never
used. The new coats will be worn without
waistcoats and with trousers which will
have moderate turn-ups.
Shirts.
The recommendations of the better class
of shirt makers seem to favor shirtings of
the most modest patterns. The pleated
soft bosom in various styles is still favor
ite These a-e made up in quiet striped
CORONATION CELEBRATE
From Punch.