The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1902-11-30
Wrappers Cook Book EncYclorndia
a Timely suppllmcn, TO Tbs Man
uaI Of Gastronomy-" Grimm
Tales Mace GaY-The
soc,ai Comedy"
BOOKS AND AUTHORS,
COMMENT AND GOSSIP
Every Day in the Year." Poetical Ept
to.ne-.Mr. Ban eis New Kove--Who Is
Lady iil-hes,er-Tae vi, OF H'be'nla
Richmond IN F,euon--Ihe chaimo OF
..our Lady OF The Beeehes..
Frank Norts' untmsiy
Lea h.
The Pleasures CT tac Table. BY George

The Pleasures CT the Table. BY George
III. Eilwagnef. M a.. author OF The
Rose, Lovers Demesne. s Medita-
ton on Govt, With Consideration OF
It's Cure Through the ljse Ct Wine.
&C, &c Doubleday Page. 6 Co..
publishers. New York. sl-.5 net. or
sale here by The Bel Book and
Stationery Company.
The Pleasures OF the Table Is the epic
OF cooking. Gastronomy is under heavy
D obligation to the author for this hand
some tiibute to lis charms He shall take
rank with Briilat-Sayatin in the annals
OF The fundamental art OF which he treats.
The only fault 10 be found with the book
is that II does not go on and on and on
1t contains not only a complete historical
account of the science of eating from the
earliest times. but Mr.. l5llwanger has set
OIL, feast OF the pabuium ofsfeasting in
a book o! absorbing interest and OF teaialit-
erary distinction. full of good stories and
anecdotes. rare recipes of the sort that
do not get into the cook book quaint oidi-
tics and suggestive facts. The man who
reads 1t Will gather new views Of life,
the woman who reads IL will know better
how to make life worth living
One needs only to look over the table
OF contents Of the volume to realize the
fact that this is a book of unusual merit.
II is a sort of key TO the multitudinous
cook-bouks since Ii involves the art pTIn-
ciples and irnparts the subtle understand.
ing with which the actual science OF cook
cry should be lisp red. ! he chdp4ei n$std-
iligs In the table of contents reads as fol-
lows: Cookery Among the Ancients:
With Lucuilus and AIsicius. The Renais-7
sance of Cookery: Old English Dishes.
Nd. q
sp..sekartc: The School OF Savarin; From
eCareme to. Dumas: The Cooks Confere;
American VS.. English Cookery; At Table
With the Clergy: 5SGndry 1ssioes TO GOOD
Cheer: of Sauces: The Spcils of the Cover:
Two Esculents Par Excellence. Sallets
and Salads. and Sweets to the Sweet.
An example of the authors style is seen
IN the quality of the text in his intro
ducto,,p cha piers. Cooking is naturally
Of all arts ii is the most Important.
Whether one should live 10 eat. is a cues
ton concerning which the epicure and the
ascetic will hold widely varying opinions;
hut that one must eat TO live. will scarce
iy admit of controversy The man WHO is
wise in his genera ton viii be inclined to
choose a happy medium.
t.Cencernirg the art itself. it may be.
Remarked that the French have been to
ccuRerv what the Dutch and Flemish.
schools have been to painting-cookery
with the one and painting with the other
have attained their highest excellence.
Kubens. Rembrandt, Teniers, Jordaens.s
Rnysdaei. Sayders. Berghem and Cuyn.
ma, be paralleied in another branch of.
ar, by Careme. Nate, Beauvilliers. Rob
nrt. Laguipiere Very. F'rancatelli and Cde.
cut. as In painting during its earlier stages
Flanders and the sAe.h,r4aIds owed much.
to the Roman and Venetian schools. so
In cookery the French are vastly !ns7eht-1
Ell to their Predecessors and former mas
ters the italians. who If less distinguish
ed coIonists. were not to be despised q s
rlraughtsmen, and who if by instinct not
as skilled in the clliarosctro of sauces.
were most dexterous in. creating bread
ttuffs and pastry. Montaignezs reference
to an Italian cook of the period will be
remembered in this connection--oneg of the
artists who had been employed by Cardi-.
NIL caraffa who dlscoursed upon the sub
1ect in such rich magnificent words. we'll
ccuched phrases. oratoric figures and pa
thetic metaphors az learned men use and