The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1902-04-20

, close fitting about the hips, with Q dssD
added nounce. very often % deity man
aged that you do not see that there u .
founce at oil, save for the flowing grace
Plain Faced Cloths Are
Popular Once More.
Pla.n-faced cloths for dressy taIlor-mades.
"a we'll as canvas fabrics. appear TO carry
all before them. in puro wh!te for summer.
fawns' of various tones, greens and violets,
and very minute patterns In embroidery
sill figure in these, carried up the seams
bordering the hem and embellishing tho
basques and deep. rounded collars. Most OK
these dresses are made SO that the jacket
can be left open or closed. and when they
arc open the acknowledgement revers show
all sorts OF cmbroidcries.
Perpendicular cord tuckinGs in triplets
can hardly be overdone. They are all lined
with glacc. but under tupes do not seem
to be considered necessary. and. conse-
quentiy, tho dresses can DO more easily
lifted when requisite. but they are shorter
than heretofore: the cordings mingle WIN
the embroidery. and often form designs on
the back OF the bodice and either side ike
suns rays and just below the waist.
Lace Used for Fronts
and Appliques for Collars.
There Is q liberal use of lace in the way
OF jabots and fronts and appl!ques on COL
lars. Those who are fortunate enough TO
have old point lace. which they can spare
for such a useful purpose. should employ
it; and for the moment Venetian point Is
more worn than any other, both on even
ing and day gowns. The wardrobe OF a
woman OF fashion requires ample space,
careful wearing. much time bestowed on
the putting on. and great variety In the
garment. For evening dresses there Is quite
a -, c1pnNa which + think mlSf hay6
been copied from the Normandy peasants.
1t is generally made in a thin fabric-it
would not look well in any other-and Is
gathered into the arnholes and then set
into a band, which IS reversed and buttoned
above the elbow. so that it Is quite hid
den, and the fulness falls over It,
It is hardly possible to have an evening
gown too soft falling. Anything that Is sim
is a mistake. and the elaboration intro
duced into these skirts Is truly wonderful
The foundation is either chiffon or coarse
Russian net but of this very little is seen,
what with scintillating paillettes. large de-
vices in heavy makes Of lace with the
foundation cut away. and velvet applique
all tinterblending with these perpendicular
tuckings, which give an opportunity Tor
adjusting the material to the figure and
allowing the fulness to flow out at the feet.
The satin foundations are nearly all I'M
lined. the satin being very soft.
Judging from the beautiful models to be
seen in the fashionable shops. we are to
have more intricacy of detail in the work
bestowed on gowns than We have had for
years. Some of the fire cloth dresses are
being trimmed with applique, the leaves Of
silk embroidery icing formed OF distinct
leaflets of cloth.
Tailor-Made Gowns Are
Still a Bit Severe.
The work-a-day tailor-made gowns are !
still slgnalized by a little severity. |
An excellent example Of this style Is q
dark navy blue cloth. with revers apart |
from the collar. which shows an inclina-
ton to stand upright. These are of white |
silk. embroidered with colored silks and
tinsel. There is a short all-around basque
to tho jacket. Skirts and bodices alike are |
very much trimmed with lows Of perpen-
dicular tuckings and piplngs-a style in !
dicated In a gray canvas dress made with |
a Jacket. somewhat on the Russian coat |
order. with an all-round basque and a |
square-shaped opening in the front
Pipings on the skirt and on the bodice /
alike illustrate a new treatment. The same /
notion ia. different patterns was shown in
a. grass lawn. made with elbow sleeves,
which are sure to be worn; perpendicular
trimmings went down the pouched bodice ]
and skirt alike. crossed by sets of three (
graduated rows Of brown velvet. This
Dress fastens at the back and the trimming
takes the form Of bands Of the material
united with silk-a new and stylish trim
ming. MARIE ARMSTRONG.