The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1902-11-08

are the effects so obtained. Orange In the
deep burnt shade. sparingly used is much
I'm vogue. noticeable gown, worn by
leading actress in one of the new plays,
Is of cream colored spangled net over vel
low silk that is yelled with chiffon in dit
ferent shades of orange, one over the
other. The net skirt is scalloped at the
lower edge and is finished with many tiny
ruchings. which show all the shades OF
orange used. The waist is most elaborate,
and includes graceful, flowing sleeves, I'M
lined, and caught at the elbows with chains
Of pearls, while pearl ornaments finish the
front. The edge of the low corsage shows
a fall of lace and bits of deep orange velvet
most cleverly introduced, while at the waist
Is worn a girdle of the velvet, with long
ends. A less elaborate gown, designed for
dinner wear. is of pompadour silk, showing
pale, shadowy pink roses. combined with
white over pink. The chiffon is made amply
full, but is without trimming. The silk is
cut to form a succession of narrow panels,
also plain. that fall over ii, giving 1t
box plat effect The half-low waist SHOWS
similar treatment, arranged to suggest a
short plated bolero of the silk, with match
ing elbow sleeves.
DANGER OF DETERMINING.
Not infrequently lace is so far elaborated
as to lose much of its real beauty rather
than to be enhanced, and one is often re-
minded of the masculine critic who claimed
that only one thing known was handsomer
than beaded lace, that thing being lace not
beaded. A really elegant dinner gown of
black silk gupure over pale yellow chiffon
is, to my mind, robbed of much beauty by
the appliques of velvet introduced into the
lace. The underskirt is of the chiffon
plisse. Over ii falls the lace in deep slen-
der points that lengthen as they approach
the train. The bodice is half low and or
the pisse chiffon with lace overdrapery,
but the bits of velvet sewed everywhere
over the design of the beautiful gmpure
are far from truly beautiful or attractive.
Lace of the better sorts is sufficiently love-
ly of itself. 1t needs no applications or
velvet, no beads, no insets of color. A most
exquisite model of cream chantilly goes far
to prove that point. The skirt consists OF
three fiounces of the lace arranged to give
a graduated effect. The low bodice is or
the lace and is draped with bertha into
which bits OF sable are introduced. Inc
elbow sleeves are fails of lace, three In
number, one over the other. and the entire
gown is mounted over cream clinton over
silk Nothing mars the beauty Of the lace.
Its finelywrought pattern is not tempered
with. The interlining of chiffon means ex-
quiste softness. No number of beads sewed
of bits of velvet applied could posi-
bly, have produced half satisfactory an
effect. The bits Of splendid fur lend depth
and richness and harmonize to a nicely
Ermine is much used in similar ways but
requires care. AS / think have mentioned
in previous letters II is trying and some
what hard. Softening lace and chiffon are
needed TO render IL becoming, and becoming
| the gown must be, else Ii has failed of its
| end. To paraphrase a recent utterance Of
| noted authority a far more serious
| subject, only the unbecoming ones are fall
ures. Fashion allows many things. The
! task set the individual Is to choose Alright,
| to adapt materials and style to her own
| needs. To come forth picture upon which
| IL is pleasure to look.
In conclusion let me add that fringe is a
| feature. Some recent gowns have been
made entirely of row on row OF fringe.
made of iridescent beads, while others
| show falls of the softer, less weighty chem
| lille sort. A lovely matron's gown of pearl
| gray is of chiffon velvet, the front panel
and front of the bodice mass of this last,
| and white is fascinatingly used in conjunc-
| ton with silk. The bead effect is brilliant,
scintilating, handsome, worn by the wom-
| an whom Ii suits, but the weight makes 1t
| an objection. The gray gown mentioned is
| open to no such objection. is graceful and
| charming, II in more quiet way.
| MAY MANTON.