The times., 1901-04-28


Abroad - The Newest sunshades.
PARIS. April 20.-You ask me, my dear,
to give YOU a thousand and one details
about the budding Of the spring fashions.
shall be very pleased to satisfy your
curiosity. quite natural in a coquette, in
the midst of country life, and far from
the whirl and movement of Paris.
must first tell you however, that the
shocking weather that we have had has
never once left us during February and
March. and has prevented me from ad-
rniring the sensational creations anywhere
but at the dressmaker's. which is not al
ways sufficient to enable one TO predict
with any certainty the fashions Of the
morrow.
It is pleasant to think that the great
dressmakers cannot altogether impose
fashions on their clients at their good
pleasure Certainly, they inspire and ere
ate the models; but how varied they ire
ouently are. differing in kind and in Style
the result is that a bold innovation does
not become the fashion until it has been
adopted by some leader of society.
Formerly the Court set the fashions and
everyone bowed to its sway; now 1t Is
enough TO hear the remark, My dear,
short sleeves are to be worn, for Nine.
dressmaker that Princess L has Sc
Iected certain color or certain shape
Of directory coat, one feels instinctively
inclined in the same direction, as the
name Of the princess appears to be a
guarantee Of style. L give you these de-
tails. dear. to explain how it is one must
await the first society functions IN Pans
such as the Concours Hippique, the salon,
and the races before the new fashions are
certainties until they are ratified by the
leaders Of Partisan society.
You must know. however, that we are
TO have the Iightest and most etheTeai
tissues to admire, in soft and suodueo
shades printed veilings, muslins laLhlse'
crepons. cambrics, and lawns very eiap-
orate in details. with small shirting pleats
and incrustatiOns. These VIII De lAe mann
features of light dresses.
Then there is 10 be an evolution OF
tailor-mades; that is to say, TINS Iehl-
nine style is TO be more e!aooIdtely
trimmed. and TO be made of mateIla.s
not hitherto used for this purpose; lou
lards canvases tamise. and tahetas oe-
ing used in the makeup OF the class oL
tailor-made. rendering them quite ne"
and becoming.
Dresses i'm preparation are long and full
round the bottom. and appear as thOuSh
the wearer was rolled in an antique crap
cry, so soft and flexible are the mateIlals
used for this style.
Another thing that will render this sea-
sons fashions extremely pleasing is THAT,
in spite of the enveloping iullneSs OF the
skirt, the purity of the line and simplicity
of aspect are maintained, especially IN
regard to the bust and hips II TINS SIM
nlicitv aDpearS exaggerated, the richness
and refinement of the details continue.
Elaborate braids, rare guipures, incrusta-
tions, and artistic embrOlderles-nothlng
has been regarded as too costly TO enrich
ladies' toilets. and the righteousness mas
extended to Underinen, corsets, petit
coats, etc.
In regard to these, ] must tell you that
white DetticOats are made TO an enormous
extent this season. Some lovely ones are
incrusted with butterflies of lace, rows of
fiOunces overlapping and cut in indenta-
tions filed with frilled lace hounees.
These petticoats, to be in the fashion,
must be extremely fluffy round the bot
tom
Others, more useful, are made of wide
linen founce, incrusted with lace ana
made up on a ground of bright-c0iored
taffetas-pink, blue, mauve or straw color,
which should be selected TO match color
OF the skirt.
TO wear with foulard dresses. many
petticoats are made OF the same material,
with wide accordion pleats and edged with
ruches OF muslin 20 match; this gives a
more stylish aspect to the dress, for the
skirts are so long Jnat they nearly always
have TO be held up. the richness OF the pet
ticoat therefore, should never be neglect
ed. and il ought TO be always in character
with that Of the dress.
As soon as the fine days set in there
will be a display Of colored shoes, which
have been worn continually on the azure
coats. Drab and yellow shoes, with
stockings to match, VIII be the most
worn Remember my dear, that white
shoes make the feet look extremely large,
and should be chosen with the greatest
The fashion Of American shoes, so long,
thin, and becoming. with high uppers and
soft fine sOes, has quite taken root IN
Paris. They are extremely light and at
the same time quite substantial enough,
for the soles are made OF compressed
Do you want to know all about sun
shades, which are so original and attract
i've and are sure Of a great successE Those
used today are in the art nouveau'
style with handles that are veritabie
Jewels. Many Of the sticks are Of
maple. rosewood. or mahogany, orna-
mented with symbolic figures or heraIdic
designs, OF inlaid with pearls lapis laZuli,
sardonyX. oEyX, etc.
The bright-colored silk striking a gay
note, is painted with designs IN fresco,
Ia keeping with the style Of the "bibelot,
for these sunshades are real "bibelots
dart"
Before bidding you goodbye. dearest,
with promise to enter into further de-
tails when The Concours Hippique enables
me to do SO, let me answer your question
on the subject Of Ornamenting dinner ia
bles Certainly, dining tables, even for
family dinners are very much trimmed
It IS a delicate attention 10 your friends
to provide a feast for the eyes as well as
for the taste Garlands Of flowers run
ming along the cloth. around crystal and
plate. make a lovely trimming for these
email dinners.
Your pretty groups Of Dresden china
would be perfect placed here and there
IN the midst Of flowers. At the present
moment the conventional basket Of
fruit is replaced by small baskets OF
Strawberries. one in front Of each guest
with the handle decked with narrow rib
bons Of mixed pompadour colors. 1t is q
novelty and brightens up the table.