Evening star., 1901-09-14
Grandmother Wraps Said to Be in
Vogue Again.
THERE ARE PRETTY LITTLE JACKETS
New Hats Are Thought to Be
HopeIessIy Ugly.
LOVELY CREPE DRESSE
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star

Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
NEW YORK, September Il, 1901.
Private advices from Paris state that
"pelerine mantels'' will be the most elegant
OF the new autumn wraps. A few have
already crossed the water to bewilder us,
and in black lace and taffeta-intermin-
gled or entirely in one Of these materials
they may be seen covering the shoulders
of delicate crepe and cloth dresses, that
take their airings in handsome victorias or
trail up and down 5th avenue. These short
little mantles. which are quantity old-time
in suggestion, have a gentle femininity
which is singularly taking.
A slight dropping from the shoulders dis
ttnguishes many of the waist-length capes,
and some, showing wide kimona sleeves.
are as loose and sacque-like as these neg
ligees. But even these are called mantles.
you understand, and 50 easy and flowing
are their lines the title does not seem
amiss
One very stylish model in black tam
bour-worked net was made in this blousy.
sacque-fashion, crimped frill Of plain net
around the bottom and sleeves giving
deliciously old-lady touch. Back and front
several short clusters of tucks, running
from the neck, provided suitable fullness;
from here the taffeta lining, also frilled at
the bottom, hung loose from the outside.
high shaped collar. hugging the throat
closely, and a tucked cravat of the plain
net finished the garment, which admirably
suited the slim, tall, dark woman who wore
Another pelerine mantle made in this
way was of black chantilly over white sat
In, the rich curving border of the lace
forming the bottom edge of skirt and wide
sleeves. The pattern of this lace was very
elaborate, but the web had been woven to
preserve In uHbroken picture at every
point of vantage. Thus at each front of the
flc-j oolyn goff all 3IaA
best name for them) a tall peacock with
trailing plumage stood sentinel over the
ladys chest bones Down her spinal col
umn single bird stalked in solitary splen-
and despite the fact that this decoration
shone out startlingly from the white lin
ing, 1t was without offensiveness. At the
front of the high curved collar two big to-
paz buttons, set in aluminium and jet, gave
look Of jeweled magnificence. Altogether
the ravishing garment was something a
princess might wear-also it was thing
for carriages and not street cars. To mis-
quote Scripture, there Is a place for all
things, yea, even peacockS.
Short Autumn Jackets.
In the way Of short jackets there are
some jaunty loose shapes in tucked taf-
feta and cloth. which. while supplying
certain elegance. yet come within the
means Of modest folk, These. even in
black, admit Of much fancifulness Of taste
In Innings, and where the jacket is OF silk
good effects are gained with a lining and
collar IN a contrasting cloth. The collar in
this case may be stiff military band,
thick with gold and black embroidery, or,
worked In the same way, 1t may be wide,
rolling affair. A white cloth collar, show
ing bias folds attached with black hem
stitch-headings is practicable and stylish
suggestion for ordinary wear. Detachable
collars, fastening along the neck line with
fiat buttons. are seen on many of these
coats. The innovation is a useful one, for
in this way a single garment may be made
to play many parts.
A tucked jacket in iris cloth lined with
ivory satin has detachable collar of the
same, worked in gold and black. Buttons
of iris enamel trimmed with jet, decorate
the front and sleeves, and the little rig is
very smart over blouse Of white crepe de
chine with cravat of same.
Beautiful Crepe de Chine.
Speaking Of crepe de chine-and to return
to hand-work-a pale blue carriage gown,
spotted with black, will show how French
dressmakers value this exquisite material.
This charming costume. which Is built on
the princess model, is literally mass OF
stitchery, all the tuoks of the skirt and
those Of the cape collar being attached by
the black hemstitch- headings discussed. AT
the waist the gown Is fitted to the figure by
series of tiny tucks, made In the ma
terial, and caught down with the feather
stitch. The long, close sleeves are tucked
lengthwise in the same way. and the insets
Of the skirt, which are of the tucked crepe
and lace, are only additional excuses for
more black needlework.
An autumn gown in tan box cloth, with
silk bands in darker shade, repeats the