Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1901-07-27
Refreshingly Burial Costumes, but
Quite Costly Ones.
CHANCE TO SHOW PRETTY ARMS
Enchanting Little Bodices But
toned Up the Back.
NEW CENTURY GARDEN HAT
'ecial Correspondence Of The Evening Star.

Special Correspondence Of The Evening Star.
NEW YORK, July IS, 1901.
Sweet simplicity is just now the rule for
cotton morning gowns abroad and at home,
and some of the little CONNECTIONS which
smart dressmakers are showing have a
dairy maid air that is most alluring.
The stamp of the frOck comes chiefly
through the way In which it is worn. and,
of course, suitable accessories are required
to create the ensemble Of undeniable ele-
gance necessary for the woman of fashion.
Nevertheless the whole effect of one OF
these pretty print costumes-for even the
old-time calicos are seen in them, in de-
signs of treilised vines and stiff, quaint
roses-is one of rural charm. When pink
and green print is topped by a rough straw
hat crowded with old maid roses. cherries
or apple boughs, the result Is refreshingiy
countryfied.
The model of the cotton gown Is usually
as simple as the material. A dimity spot
ted with blue pois (oblongs) or patterned
with delicate green clover leaves or pink
apple blossoms. will have the full skirt
tucked closely to below the knees, from
where 1t falls full around the feet In q
deep lace or footing edged founce The
gathered bodice also reveals insets of this
airy but durable trimming. set between
clusters of fine horizontal tucks, or cross
ing the material I'm large diamonds or
!, squares. 1t is belted taut at the waist
with ribbon, which may likewise form the
stock, over which falls turnover collar
of the net and dimity.
Elbow sieeves Prevail.
Sleeves most liked reach only to the
elbow. those in-tf,e lowered prints being
commonly very close affairs and sometimes
turning back with deep ''washerwoman'
cuffs in plain color, Other sleeves show
under puffs of white null, and SO popular
is this daintily feminine detail that under
sleeves may now be bought separately in
all the shops. as well as the lingerie col
lars which are such aids to the home
dressmaker bent on having her gown look
the right thing.
| Narrow and wide frills are seen at the
bottom Of gored skirts. They are COM
monty cut on the straight of the material,
and put on with shirred heading. above
which may lie Ave or seventeen wide
tucks.
The smartest wash frocl1ss Cor afternoon
soda Ga pinkish reD n1auve. and robins
egg blue. Mercerized linen Is one of the
seasons most successful novelties. and
with 1t are combined. rich yellow and white
embroideries. fashioned into entire jackets
and skirt yokes.. or forming insertions and
medallions. behind which black velvet or
taffeta may be set with rich effect The
material is tn itself most beautiful. very
II
the way the colors deepen and pale with
movement.
Comfort in COrsets.
Some cotton skirts are seen with tunie
draperies, but they are happily rare, and
it is observed that no matter what the
costume, the corset that goes with 1t Is Of
the straight front variety. This eases the
body more than formerly at The waist, pro-
ducing very erect bearing and a slight
suggestion of more girth than was noticed
in the.days of gored fronts. However. this
is Offset by the way the new girdles dip
to the fore and lift at the back; style Of
betting that would redeem any figure. and
which renders a slight, graceful enc posi-
lively divine. These. too, accord enchant-
ingly with the little bodices that button up
the back, which is pretty but inconve-
nient kink of many Of the new shirt waists.
Shirt Waist Backs.
But speaking of backs and shirt waists,
have you noticed how miserable many wo-
men wear theirs at the rear? Married
backs one clever girl calls these frumpy.
blousy. carelessly adjusted clothes. and
though 1t may be cruel to connect welded
bliss with untidiness. 1t Is nevertheless a
fact that the wedding ring often accom-