The courier., 1901-03-16
FASHION LETTER.

increase in beauty Of design and tex
ture, not to say anything of price, az
they have in the last ten years. they will
become practically impracticable. The
brocsdee, satins and velvets Of today
vie with thoee OF the Louis XIV, Louis
XIV. and Marie Antoinette periods. The
greater quantity Of fabrics called for by
the present era Of extravaganza pre-
cludes the possibility Of attaining the
perfection Of those days. A woman Of
fashion in the time Of lie Roi Soleil"
counted herself wonderfully well set up
II she were the possessor of two or three
costumes OF the rich stuffs, manufsc-
tured for the wealthiest and highest in
the land. A woman of fashion today is
not content urless her wardrobe holds
at least dozen such costumes. This
growing extravaganza is not restricted
to the wealthy class, but is becoming 90
general that even Modish is filed with
apprehension at the present condition of
things. As | write, fashion is still un-
revealed. but a peep behind the veil
which obscures the "holy Of holies" en-.
ables me to put forth few predictions
OF what will most liLely be the promi-
nent features for the coming season. 1t
is cafe to say that there will be few
radical changes. I have always said,
from Modish point of view, that the
days Of radical changes are past.
Individuality in every branch Of toilet
is asserting itself One might better be
dead than one of a crowd. The woman
who is not known by some individual
characteristic is out OF the race en-.
tirely. One Of the best of the latest
French gowns that I have seen was
brought over by q very chic woman.
Despite the protests from the Paquin-
ties, it is perfectly tight fitting around
the hips. Around the bottom 1t has
FIVE or six deep slashes, and under these
slashes appear succession Of narrow
circular ruffles. The gown is in pink
cloth. The ruffles are lined with paler
shade Of pink, and with every moveme Mt
OF the wearer gives out the appearance
Of rose petals. There is scarcely any
doubt in my mind that ruffies and
fiounces will play very important part
in the spring and summer fashions. The
present outline Of skirt, which is close
fitting to the knees and then full and
fiaring. will continue. only in less exag-
gerated form. A distinctive feature of
the new gowns is the Persian trimmings.
These will play as prominent part in
the spring fashions as gold has in the
winter confections. We shall probably
tire Of it soon. and it will lose it's vogue
among the Modish. This tickle fancy of
the smart woman is q wonderful incent-
i've to the originator Of new fads.
A gown worn by the Duchess OF Man.
chester, during her short stay in town
last week, deserves notice, as it carries
out my statement Of the increased vogue
Of black and white CONNECTIONS. 1t was
Of black chiffon, mounted over white.
The skirt was made Of an infinite mum.
ber Of narrow, hand.run, perpendicular
tucks. These tucks finished about
twelve inches above the bottom of the
skirt, and from there fiared considerably.
1t was flushed around the edges with
narrow black lace. The bodice was of
perpendicular tucks. The yoke, of hor-
izontal tucks, was given a square effect
by reason Of the perpendicular tucks
being continued over the shoulders. The
sleeves were tight fitting. The cap was
Of perpendicular tucks. A cluster of
horizontal tucks at the shoulder line