The times., 1901-05-19
VAGARIEO OF FASHION
High Collars Completely Barred
From an Up-tO-Date Wardrobe.

The Empire style Continues to Hoid
Its Sway - Lawn Favorite for
Dainty summer Wear-New IdenS
i'm ReticuIes. Also in LorSnettes.
PARIS. May g.-Between two squalls
and favored 10y a radiant sun already
warm. I felt an Irresistible desire to lock
in the windows of the Rue de la PaiN and
other ..viae sacrae.' for the small. CO.
ouettish. and attractive trides which viii
be so many unpublished novelties in this
Wv season
As regards costumes and hats, the daily
- .hcrings at the ConcOurs Hippique
e begun to fix ones mind as 10 the di-
rection fashion will take, and the coming
've,nissage" at the Salon win settle the
question finally.
But there are a thousand shades that
observed in my look around in the morn
ing. and ! feel sure that the readers Of
my letter viii profit by it. Just as at
the accession of a new King succeeding
a prcde c,sSor beloved in his time, ] write
under a conviction of lhe appearance Of
a new fashion. La mode est morte! Nive
Ia mode" and this year viii change
nothing in traditions, for all the innova-
tioHs appear charming and viii give rise
to no dissatisfaction among the votaries
OF fashion.
Let me speak first of the delightful
manner in which the high collars that
have served as neck trimmings have been
replaced At present ones neck emerges
from a fat collar of fine white lawn, bor-
dered with colored lawn. sky blue, pink,
or mauve. Ties are made to match, with
butterfly bows or sailors knots These
are infinitely more becoming to wear with
h.. 10
may be varied in endless ways, with in
crustations Of bright colored lawns, in
the style of the art neuveau,' which is
applied to all branches of industry.
| must also direct your attention to
handkerchiefs in the same style which
are perfect successes. On the square ends
of sky blue lawn are embroidered white
dragon flies or floral designs in symmetri-
cal order. These handkeIchiefs are ex-
quisite And the details of a handker-
chief are, in these days. of Importance in
the feminine toilet From all times it
has marked the degree of refinement of
those wh9 use it and the degree OF ciNill-
zation among races.
rhe chemisette, so ideally convenient,
the dethTonement OF which some diScon-
tented spirits periodically predict, Is Sull
greatly IN favor. there are innumerable
ways IN which the linen warehouses inter
pret this garment. FOR this summer, be
sides lawn and other light, CLOUDY ma
terials, / predict great success for
chemisettes Of giace tanctas, printed with
cashmere patterns, in a medley of coiors,
very pleasing. hut very atte nuated and
diminished by reflections Further, the
ever growing width OF waistband buckles
is sufficient evidence Of the longevity OF
the blouse.
The empire style continues TO hold its
sway over the destinies of women OF fash
ion, and this style Is all the rage. VIDE
Wristbands Of waterproof satin material,
cIouted with steel or with gold bees, are
fastened with broad buckles like those OF
old soldiers belts. with eagles with out
spread wings and laurel wreaths round
the plaques. Then there are ribbon waist
bands with double clasps and plaque
chased all over. Let me also mention
some charming Wristbands embroidered
in monochrome on a gold ground in the
empire style. The front takes the form
of a wide corselet, on which are swans,
pigeons, seagulls, or flowers in the art
nouveau'' style The neck trimming is
similar. 1t is an artistic complement that
may be adapted to all kinds of chemi-
settes. Tags and aguiiettes continue 10
be freely used, and some extremely pret-
ty ones are made.
Lawn viii be a very favorite material
this summer. and have seen a new and
charming application for il. 1t is in con-
nection with pink, blue, red, or orange
sunshades used as a ground for cover
ing of plain lawn. finished of with wide,
fat pleats. The effect is charming The
-
this simple and recherche style goes with
various costumes. Everything lies IN
matching the ground material Sunshade
handles are OF moderate lenSin ana con
tinlfe 10 be very elaborate Colored en-
ameIs and cut crystal enriched with pre-
ciOus stones are the prevailing note OF
the JASON There are thousand small
refiHements introduced IN everything one
wears and never did luxury and re-
search extend to the details of the ward
robe as they do today.
While modern creations are extensively
utilized, ancient fashions are also re
tained. For instance. the reticule, which
was formerly an accessory TO visiting
costume, is at present indispensable at
the theatre. II is presented TO US in the
long natiened form Of past days sur
mounted with marvellous decorations
Some are Of velvet embroidered with steel
beads and clasp Of steel completing the
general effect Others. of rainbow-colored
beads look as though they had been
found in the rosewood chinOnier Of a far
distant .Tante Aurcre.' What completes
the Illusion IS the return to the gold
mounted lorgnou. finely chased, like those
carried by the -IncrOyables' and "Ner-
velleuse" Of the eighteenth century. They
have the merit Of being Infinitely less
cumbersome than the tortoise shell, face
= mains. and they answer the same pur-
pose. Moreover the art Of the ''modelard'
and the chaser finds material for mas
terpfeces. and ] have admired handles of
rare perfection and so artistic in concep-
fion as to make one think of the masters
of the Italian renaissance
The Iorgnette also is made a pretext for
delightful fancies, enamels. miniatures.
tortoise shell. pearl Martin Varnish, and
the teudeTest porcclains. beautifully dec
GRATED. make il object Of rare luxury.
and at the same time quite modern ana
being an object Of the first necessity one
can easily have half a dozen, and doubt
less in time form a collection as interest
ing as those of snuff boxes. sWeetmeat
boxes. powder boxes. etc. which one so
enthusiastically admires in the museums,