Evening star., 1901-12-14
Table and Kitchen.
More About Salads as to Variety and
Mixing.

NOT SO many years ago the American
knew but little of salads unless he went
abroad to that land distinctly noted for
the delicate art of salad making. For a
long time France led in this fine accom-
plishment. Americans are initiative in sug-
gestion only, and while other countries are
still, to great extent. barbaric in this
branch of the culinary art, we have gained
very enviable knowledge Of the secrets
that lurk in the salad bowl. The varying
and changing seasons Of our climate de-
mand a constant change of food, and ma
ture responds to this demand with a greater
variety of food materials than is bestowed
upon any other nation. Therefore it is not
to our credit that so large percentage OF
our people still eat too few green salads.
Variety in Salads.
That the proper construction of a salad
is not generally underst ood is shown by the
tendency so many show to hash" the ma
terals This not only robs them of their
freshness, but their appetizing appearance
as well.
While the connoissuer affects only the
simple salads with the plain dressing of Oil,
vinegar or lemon juice, salt and pepper, the
ordinary salad lover seeks variety. This is
easily obtained with the great profusion of
salad materials at our command and The
avoidance of too frequent use of the same
kind of dressing, fiavoring and seasonlngs.
Even the plain lettuce salad will admit of
a great many variations by skillful changes
in the ''acceSSOrieS.'
For the beginners who imagine they do
not like salads account of the oil, allow
considerable latitude and exercise diplo-
macy in introducing by careful and slow
degrees, the Objectionable CD oil. Teaching
a prejudiced mind to accept salads is much
like Mrs. Glass instructions as to how to
cook a hare You must first catch the
fancy of the eater. In almost every in
stance this is done when a fruit salad is
offered and dressed with a boiled dressing
in which oil is substituted for butter.
Mixing Salads.
1t is generally owing to the crudeness
and lack of skill in mixing that salads are
dstasteful to a person who first tries them.
This fault certainly makes them quite
Objectionable to the fastidious salad lover.
Not only must salad materials be of the
freshest and best and blended so that their
variety be in full concord, but they must
be gently handled. Not mixed too soon or
any heavy pressure allowed. For tossing
the materials together to mix the season
ing and dressing, use the common wooden
1ork ana spoon which comes Tor this pur-
pose. When a plain lettuce or any of the
salad leaves compose the salad have them
thoroughly washed in cold water, picked
over and dried by standing in wire basket
or cOlander, set in cold place and allowed
to drain a sufficient length of time for
moisture to evaporate. This will make the
leaves very crisp and tender, while the
practice of wiping them had the oppo-
site effect. Just before serving put the oil
on first; toss about gently with fork and
spoon until every leaf is coated with the
oil; then add the salt, pepper and vinegar,
and toss lightly again. Less oil is required
when used in this manner, and the blending
is more perfect. This should be done by
the hostess at the table or by the servitor
just before it is taken to the table, but
must not be allowed to stand or leaves will
wilt, and this is objectionable in the mind
of the fastidious guest.
While the cultivated taste desires and en-
joys sufficient quantity of oil to give that
distinct nutty flavor SO delightful to the
taste, consider if there are others to par
take of the salad who are yet in training
and use the oil, and also cayenne and onion
with sparing hand. Those who wish more
may resort to cruet and pepper box.
Garnishes for Salads.
In arranging a salad consider that it
must be pleasing table decoration as well
as a palatable dish. An artistic and deli
cious salad, like a good soup, may redeem
an otherwise hopeless dinner, as it pleases
all the senses and leaves an impression
that counteracts the effect of badly cooked
meats and vegetables.
In the winter the decorations for salads
seem very limited, but not to the inventive
mind. Flowers and fresh fruit being out
OF the question. the reSourceful ones turn
to small red radishes trimmed to represent
hoWers, carrots fashioned into marigolds
beets and turnlps for red and white roses
stuffed olives, little pickles or gherkins.
sliced to represent a little fan-shaped leaf
or even the larger pickles fashioned into
leaves when other green decoration is
scarce. All these may be used for any of
the meat or fish salads. The green feath-
cry top OF carrots will answer nicely when
parsley cannot be obtained for decorating
Inc yOlk OF pressed thropob
ana arranged on top of a salad to represent
the flower of the golden rod and the pars-
| ley or carrot tops used for leaf and STEM
make a most pleasing picture. The coral
or the lobster may be used in same manner
to fashion the scarlet trumpet flower. MS
| ing small sliced pickles for the petals and
ieaVes: Hard-boiled eggs make beautiful
| imitation water-liies for a cress or sninach
salad Even green leaves of house nIants
| may be used if their flavor will not be an
| objectionable taste. If fruit salad is
nodded In jelly, rose with stem and per-
fect leaves, placed on the dish at base of
| the salad mold, is all the decoration needed
10 give a very artistic effect. Rose gcro-
MUM leaves can be used to decorate fruit
salads, but beware Of the fish variety, even
| tne tempting red and green leaves as their
peculiar flavor would not add to the nsIa-
tableness of even fish salad
| The simpler and lighter the salad the
| daintier and lighter the decoration.
BulbOu Salad.
Select large, white, mild favored onions.
| skin them; cut a slice from the top. but
| not enough to cut the little bulb in the GEN.
ter Cover the onions with plenty of boil
| Ing salted water; leave uncovered and cook
! ten minutes; drain off the water and cover
again with fresh boiling salted water and
| COOK until tender but not soft enough to
break Do not let the water boil down too
| much while onions are cooking or they VII,
| be dark. When done drain off the water:
| let the onions get perfectly cold, then re-
move the heart bulb and enough of the In
| side to leave cup to hold the following
mixture: Chop the loose onion layers quite
| fine and rub with same quantity of boned
sardines, and half the quantity Of yolk of
hard-boiled egg. Season with minced pars-
| ley a little tarragon or lemon juice cheyril
ana either pinch Of cayenne or curry pow
| DER. FIJI the onion cups with this mixture:
| cover with mayonnaise and sprinkle with
pinch OF chopped parsley. Set each onion
on crisp salad leaf and arrange on a IA :
dish; have border of crisp lettuce and on
this place at intervals the whites of the
| eggs cut into rings; inside Of each ring nut
| a spoonful Of stiff mayonnaise: on ton or
this place the little heart bulb of the onion
and dust lightly with finely minced parsley
| Serve very cold.
| Aovs