Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1901-11-09


yellow broom. Here are gardens and
villas 10 which the wealthy residents Oh
Tangier betake themselves in summer
time TO enjoy the cool
MOUNTAIN BREEzEs
and the pure water OF innumerable
springs. Another hours ride brings you
TO Cape Spartel with It's celebrated
lighthouse which Uncle Samuel helps
TO maintain. Ii was built at the ex-
pense OF the Moors, b. French archi-
tect, but is kept up by the various for-
eign governments which are Interested
In the Mediterranean trade, each con.
trlbuting its annual quota. After as
cending its tower ana enjoying VIDE
view Of shining sea and haze-enyelopet
hills, and far away on the horizons rim
a glittering silver line, which marks.
the northern border Of the desert-you
are offered coffee and bread by the care
takers OF the lighthouse; and never was
nectar and ambrosia so acceptable.
IL carly enough in the day, YOU may
continue the ride to the cayerns OF Ras
Ashukkar, near the village Of Medina,
which have served as stone quarrles
since the days OF the Romans. and from
which all the millstones for grinding
wheat that are used In the province OF
Tangier arc still cut. Returning 10
the City--whose gates you must reach
before sunset or remain all night out
slde--you may vary the excursion by
crossing the plain, instead Of taking the
beach road. On that part OF the
plateau nearest to the Kasbah, or clta-
del you see innumerable tOmbs, hone5
combed in the living rock, which tradi-
tion says were the burial-places Of the
ancient Phonlciane, Horrible to relate,
these rocky graves, where corpses have
lain until corruption wrought It's per-
feet work, are now utilized as prison
cells. Each contains some wretched be-
Ing, whose worst 0ffense Is probably
that OF not being able to pay his debts,
held fast by a chain. Just long enough
TO permit him to squat In the door OF
his tomb by day, and crawl into 1t at
night for shelter
II takcV two days 10 go to Tetuan on
muleback; and the government insists
ON furnishing
SOLDIER ESCORT
at your expense. The customary pay
ment Of a foot-soldier Is half dollar
q day and his keep" that OF a mount
ed soldier, double the price. Leaving
Tangier by the sea-gate. you follow the
beach about q mile. and then turn In
land to avoid the sand hills BY and
by you come TO little stream, fringed
with pink and white oleanders which
follows the road all the way to the
mountains. At miserable clay VIII
lage called Fondack you pass the
night, pitching tents IN the open If you
have them; or If not. patronlzing the
wretched caravanserai. The latter Is
an immense square building, contain
IN large. open court with a colon
ade around 1t, into which number OF
rooms open. These apartments contain
nothing in the world but dirt and vel.
min, in the midst Of which you are ex-
pected TO spread your rugs ON the floor
and snatch what sleep you can, with
mules and horses stamping close by In
the corridor, occasionally poking social
able noses in at the doorway. Your
morning ablutions must be performed
at the public trough where the animals
drink: and as you have brought your
own food, 1t is safe TO say that you will
prefer to take II al freseo on the sandy
plain. From Fondaok, the stony
road is like climbing stairs,
now straight up, and down. over
a series Of low but rugged hills;
until you reach the bridge which
spans the Bou S'fihs river. Here you
get the first glimpse of Tetuan, and
the most picturesque scene In Moroc-
co. Begirt with lofty wall. set at
short intervals with massive SQUARE
towers, the city shows from the dis