The Weiser signal. [volume] (Weiser, Idaho) 1890-1904, 1901-02-28

the one thing for almost universal use
In this line will be the short jacket
The style will be the one In the illus
tration. To cut it one needs but the
ordinary waist pattern for jacket
The back, 1t will be noticed, has the
side shoulder pieces much higher thar
usual. There are eight pieces, two
fronts. two side body pieces, two shout
der side pieces and the two center
backs. Fig l shows the front and
Fig. the back. The front is double
breasted, and the bottom Is shaped to
conform to the latest figure, with
straight front. There are many jack
cts with single breasted effect, and to
make such 1t Is only necessary to cut
the fronts OF at the line which marks
the middle of the double breast. In
this case the revers should be some
what smaller and set three inches low
er down. That brings 1t right. But
tons and buttonholes take the place Of
the invisible fastening SO long In
vogue.
To get the measure 1t Is necessary
to get the length from the top Of the
shoulder at the neck down to the de-
sired length below the belt. In case
the wearer is very stout the front
should be rather longer than 1t would
be otherwise. 1t can be cut to form q
deep tab, If so desired, by rounding the
front down from the side form or dart.
But the straight one will be rather the
better form.
After the first line is made, meas
ure from the slope Of the shoulder
down to the hips, always allowing
two Inches for take up In the sew
Ing and trimming off of the edges.
The object now is to have the shout
ders very square, and to this end 1t is
necessary to have piece of buckram
with a layer or two of cotton batting
basted to 1t and sewed in with the
sleeves. All that part of the front be-
tween the buttons is stiffened with
buckram, just such as tailors use In
mems coats. A narrow bias piece of
the same Is basted all around the bot
tom OF the jacket, allowing it SO that
when the hem is turned 1t will not
double. The back pieces are cut on the
same lines as any tight waist, only let
ting the shoulder pieces be raised by
cutting OF an inch of the top, IL the
pattern is narrow one. That brings
1t right.
When the material Is cravenette
covert, 1t Is not necessary to sponge or
"busheP the material. as that Ia Al
ways done with those goods.
The fronts require the most careful
treatment. When the fronts are cut
out. they are of the same size. though
they do not look so In a double breast
ed jacket. One side comes under as far
as the other goes over. 1t Is the same
way with the single breasted one. So
when the fronts are cut the revers NAV
be cut with the rest. but In others the
revers are made separate and sewed
on. In any case piece Of the stuff Is
cut from each side for facing. and this
IS first lined with buckram and then
stitched over and over to make 1t as
though one with the lining facing.
This buckram must reach from the top
u the revers and the collar and on
Town to the bottom and be as wide as
he facing, and that must go as far
PACK as the buttons, whether single or
iouble breasted. When the buckram ia
lrmly quilted to the facing, the lining
o the jacket is made ready and stitch
% TO 1t down the front. The lining is
o be doubled and stitched so that II
lides the raw edge of the cloth. When
MS Is done, the facing Is basted with
are to the outside and stitched firmly.
'ome tailors stitch this three times To
et the solidity. When this is done. II
ready to sew together, and back and
ront are basted and tried and finally
ewed together. The lining is in the
ronts, and the lining for the back is
ut by the same pattern as the outside.
IN up on the machine. This is then
asted to the center seams In the back
lenl after turning 1t farther, to the