Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1901-04-13

An ANNUAL EXPOSITION
ENCOURAGE APPRENTICES
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.

Special Correspondence OF The Evening STAR.
PARIS April 3 1901.
The Gould-Castellane Galleries de la
Charlie, in the Rue Pierre-Charron, offered
to the fashionable charity organizations of
Paris by the Comte and Comtesse Boni de
Casteilane after the tragic burning of the
old Bazaar de Charlie, is a particularly fire.
proof building. This is well; because If
ever fire should start in it's narrow asles,
it's crooked stairways and its choked- up
galleries. the Inevitable panic crush would
bring about new catastrophe. Last Sun
day, the first day of the culinary EXPOSE
ton, organized by the head cooks of great
fafis famIiies, the crowd was so great in
THIS queer new building that moving about
among ITS awkward pillars became almost
impossible. The many tabfes-and there
always Will be tables at charity fairs
choked up the passageways still more. A
magnificent, wedding cake, four stories
high, was overturned and smashed at a
crllcal moment. The resulting scramble
LOT the pieces, which might easily have
turned INTO panic, gave one pause for
tlougnt The world may have something
yet to near from Count Bonis idea of a
hreproof charity bazaar building.
The interior resembles that of a narrow
cnurch, even to the dim religious light
NotWlthStandlng that the Galleries have
peen building since 1898, and were opened
OF the bare Caen stone, the absence Of
WOODWORK and the temporary and INSULT
Gent character of the electric lighting con-
tinue to give the impression of a still nm
finished building. A series of broad tables
spread with all kinds of delicious dishes
cluttered up the nave of this ecclesias tical
looking interior The aisles, still more
choked up by many little tables were full
of dark corners. But the sights-and odors
were of this world And so were the
names attached to monumental pieces
pr pldilcely dlshes masterpieces unknown to
the average man, The HOLSTERS Out Walk
ing, for example, or The Pullet in
tights The greatest chefs of Europe fig
ure IN the patronage committee.
Prizes for the Ambitious Young.
one of the most touching details of this
peculiar exposition is found in the list of
medals and prizes to be given to appren-
tees. young cooks, beginners and "broth-
ers out of work" NJ. Jean Labonde gives
70 francs Ito permit a colleague out of
work to produce himself NJ Boutier
gives 90 francs to pay for the material etc.
OF piece of "deGpratEe and practicar'
pastry cook work, to Chow the talent of
a confrCre out of Work. The French chefs
OF Rome sent on -four, prizes for appren-
elees' Han dozen Individual Paris chefs
offer money prizes for the encourage
ment of apprentices. m. Alepee chef TO
Prince Tratinia of PaleEmo offers "a saw
ngs bank book with 80 francs to be dis
culent chaudfroid.', ~
In this way it becomes more than for
mai exposition given byfereat cooks for the
advertising of themselves and their en-
ployers. These worthy people hold .togeth-
er, really sustain ene another; the success
full encourage their humber brethren; a
live spirit of emulation, enterprise and ex-
pertinent is stirred up among them. NJ
Docquet offers asprize fer the best young
pullet in the English style; NJ GilIet for
the most novel fish eatfee; NJ. Barre for a
first horS d'OelIype; M.t4Delafoy for the
smartest chaudfroidi NJ. Lion for the best
entree revived from the cuisine of the sew
enteenth or eighteenth centuries; NJ. Que
non of the royal Belgian kitchens for the
best dressed salmon trout; NJ. Cochelin for
the best entree on rice foundation.
have Just heard the romantic story of the
young apprentice, ALBERT, who won the
first prize offered by the chefs of Rome for
the encouragement of apprentices. 1t seems
That this young man, although a proper
member of the local Paris association and
entitled to exhibit as an apprentice under
the rules of the present salon, had been
forbidden, not by his chef, but by his en-
ployer, the proprietor of a small but ex-
penSlVe Paris restaurant He worked at
night on most ambitious masterpiece
THE HOLSTERS Out Walking a name and
idea entirely his own. There they are to-
day, In place of honor. They repose on a
canape, or lounge of parsley, three splendid
Holsters of varying sizes and complexions
The old papa lobster, keeping his dull red
brown color, is all swelled up with his
own succulence; the ardent mamma lobster
blushing fiery red beside him, has lost part
of her shell and shows a certain discreet
surface Of delicate white meat; while the
daughter, melancholy lobsterine, all muf-
fled up in whitish mayonnaise-like sauce
covering, cut in a pretty and becoming pat
tern, seems to be following her parents
with an amorous languor.
Rare Mayonnaise Sauce.
But all this is only the exterior look of
the thing. Allibert's triumph consists in
the flavor of that white mayonnaise-like
sauce, which seems to be something utter
ly new and~out of the common How IT
is made, of what it Is composed, nobody
knows The severe judges who tasted 1t
We're none the less Of one accord. 1t is
more than a variation on the classical
mayonnaise. 1t is a new sauce. And new
sauces scarcely come more than four to
the century. | have heard that its dis
tinguishing flavor came from a PURGE of
certain nuts. However this be, the young
apprentice, still trembling under the re-
proaches of his employer, received an offer
to work in the royal Belgian kitchens
under the great Quenon himself. In day
he rose from obscurity to celebrity. All
Paris is talking about The HOLSTERS Out
Walking" and their peculiar mayonnaise
may be expected to figure on the cards
of all the Paris restaurants-on the cards, 1
say advisedly, for do you think that ALL
X
ploiters of his tribe, the restaurant pro-
prietors? No, it Is Leopold-and his new
American friends-who will enjoy that
faint nutty perfume in all it's true deli
Cacy.
When the chef, M. Lion of Vienna.
offered his prize for the best entree revived
from the cuisine Of the seventeenth or
eighteenth century he was not obeying
a merely personal within AS in interior
house decoration And feminine dress, the
movement is back to those old times, to
pick up forgotten beauties, good old styles,
and modernize them. In this salon whole
great dinner table set for twenty guests,
showed what it called an eighteenth CEN
fury banquet. ID ~
Solid heaviness, withaa willingness on the
part of the cook to- let each meat retain its
own favor, is what distinguishes it from
the modern dinner. They We're not afraid
of butchers meat or''red meat in those
days-dlet of beefj1leg lof venison, the pate
of hare and the Mayanee ham, not to speak
of the sweetbreads and young rabbits Down
to the salads most of the dishes would be
served hot. The Holsters, birds and rabbits,
served cold, remaihed on the table through
out the whole meal as Hanks" like the
pate of hare and the Mayance ham, at the
other end, called "eontre fianks.'
The vegetables were to be served here
and there between the meat courses.