The daily morning journal and courier., 1901-10-31

dominion of darkness that shall never be dispelled until Turkey passes from the shadow of the Sultan and Moham- mechanism into the sunlight of better civilization and religion.
 There is but little use for person in this dark country to try to become prosperous and powerful, for as soon as he reaches that point he is exiled or put to death by order of the ultan. We were shown a beautiful home on the Bosporus that had belonged to an Ar menian, which had been confscated by the king and the owner had disap- peared. Neither electric lights or tee- phones are allowed in the city. The houses are built of wood and but few of them have been painted, They look Weather-Worn and old. They have three Sundays in this city. Friday, the Turkish or Mohammedan Satur- day. the Jewish, and Sunday, the Chris tian We were fortunate in being there on Friday, the Mohammedan Sabbath, and had the pleasure of seeing the Sultan attend his weekly prayers at the mosque near his palace, The street from the palace to the mosque was sur lOuHQtd WilH HlOullleu CdNdlly anu Spl- diers by the thousand dressed in beau
 tiful uniforms, glittering in the sun, with magnificent weapons of the most modern make.
 These soldiers are the choice and pride of the kingdom. They are the finest body of men physically that l have ever seen, and as I stood observ- ing them I could not help but feel that if all the Sultan's soldiers were like these the conquest of this country would be no easy task,
 Shortly after the soldiers had taken their places three carriages, drawn by the finest horses, with negro eunuchs,
 more than six feet high, walking as at tendants, appeared; the first carriage contained the favorite wives of the ruler, the second the members of his haram, the third the kings sons, Soon the sound of the trumpet, the present ing of arms and the music of the bands announced the coming of the Sultan. At that moment from the minerat came the call to prayer. Then came into view beautiful carriage drawn by two elegant sorrel horses, with gold trimmed trimmings closely surrounded by several hundred soldiers with uni forms of dazzling splendor. In this carriage sat the Sick Man of the East He looked careworn, frightened and old. Father O'Hearn, who stood in the carriage with me in full sight of the Sultan and the procession, made motion to life his opera glasses. h. stantly three detectives disguised in citizens lothes, sprang forward to prevenet him. It seems that the use of opera glasses is prohibited by order of the Sultan The carriage soon passed into the\portals of the mosque. The people and the soldiers waited his re- turn from the services, but we hastily returned to our ship. Just as the sun was going down and the Mohammedan call to prayer was sounded from hum dreds of minarets our steamer passed out of the Bosporus into the Sea of Marmora, and as we supposed, without interruption to Beirout. But man pro- poses and the Turk disposes. The next morning our ship was stopped at the Lazaret, and orders came that before proceeding on our voyage all the pas Sengers numbering about one thousand must land on the island and have their clothes fumigated. Arrangements were however, quickly made with the Turk ish officers whereby the first and sec- ond class passengers could be fumiga- ted by simply paying one franc. l nev- CT paid out twenty-five csents more will lingly in my life than I paid this. The third and fourth class passengers were not so fortunate. They numbered about four hundred; these were all crowded into small boats, taken on shore and stripped of their clothing. Their clothing was then fumigated; and they were compelled to pay one franc besides before they were allowed to return to the ship. One poor woman, an Armenian, who had been visiting her son in America, and was returning home. died of fright A rude coffin was built for her on the Sagaline and a lone priest accompanied her remains to ouick burial on the island. Twenty four hours passed and then the yellow flag was hauled down, the anchor lifted and we were once more on our way to the coast of Syria. About five o'clock we came in sight of the barren island of Patmos, where John had his revela- ton of a new heaven and new earth. Two days later we arrived at Beirout, which is the chief commercial city of Syria and has a population of one hun dred and twenty thousand. Here we learned that we had just missed our steamer for Haipha and Joffa, and that there would not be another for five days. The priests, however, who were making their pilgrimage to the Holy Land seemed equal to any emergency They chartered the Prince George for Haipha and Joppa As I was left all alone they invited me to go with them. I gladly accepted their invitation, and in less than an hour the Prince George with fifty-two French priests, one American priest and one Methodist Episcopal clergyman on board, were sailing past the evergreen mountains or Lebanon. on past the cities of Tyre and Sidon. We reached Haipha just as the sun was setting The Turkish officials would not permit us to land after sundown, so we had toremain on board until morning.; we proceeded at once to make ourselves as comfortable as nossible on the deck of our small yes sci for the night, I felt after the eX- periences of that night, that l could svmpathize with Jacob, who once slept with a stone for his pillow Just as