davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1901-04-06

Teazle curl. No hairdresser in New York or
Chicago could match the young lady's stun
ningly colored locks, but by sending to
Italy, to the province where Titan used to
find his beautiful models, a superb curl was
cut from the head of a village belle. By
the time the lock had been mounted, paid
for and safely brought through the custom
house it had cost the fair American nearly
a hundred dollars To preserve it's luster
it is kept in a wooden box lined with black
silk and curled about spool-shaped piece
of wood that Is also covered with silk.
The wired skeleton bow that has been
worn season after season Is now ignominf-
ously degraded to the scrap basket. The
bow that in it's place faunts it's satin loops
from well-coiffured heads is a broad black
or white Liberty satin ornament, pinned
usually at the back Of the head. For wo-
men whose hair is painfully scant these
bows are an undisguised blessing, and,
what Is even more to the point, they are
universally becoming.
Ospreys have had to retire along with
the skeleton Louis XIV topknots, and while
jeweled flies, iridescent beetles and other
strange creeping things faunt their gay
colors with evening toilets the smart, full
dress evening hair ornament is a poppy
Of black panne with a heart Of gold. To
heighten the brilliancy Of the strange bios
SONS few spangles are sometimes sprin-
kled on the petals to suggest dewdrops,
and against blond or dark hair that is
combed high two of these flowers appear
to more dazzling effect than a tiara of
diamonds
Strictly against the biblical Injunction
though it be, women are beginning again
to wind ropes Of pearls in their hair. This
must be done, however, by an expert hair
dresser or an amateur possessed of good
taste and deft fingers. or the effect will
prove theatric. A pretty novelty in jewels
for the cotffure Is the small gilt or silver
wire hairpin, on the top of which five small
tinted fresh water pearls are strung. The
pins themselves are just the size Of those
made of common black painted wire, and
when they are thrust into coil the half
hoops of colored pearls they appear
as II they were portions Of a rope Of
pearls wound through the tresses.
The artificial chronological specimen that
now waves its rainbow-tinted pinions from
well-combed locks Is butterfly made of
spun silver. The silver tissue insect is
painted with acids that reflect the most
gorgeous colors. and it is fastened by fine
invisible wires to band of black velvet
run through tiny jeweled slides that clasp
the tail puffs of hair.
Evening star., 1901-04-06
and many Of English design-probably
oriental originally-are popular also.
Green Leads Again.

and many Of English design-probably
oriental originally-are popular also.
Green Leads Again.
Bright red summer furniture, especially
for porches and lawns. has been used
somewhat, but 'the law of harmony being
greater than that of contrast green leads
again, particularly for outdoor use where
green lawns are usually somewhere in the
perspective. All the bright colors of cre-
tonne and other cotton and linen furnish
ings are not to some people as satisfac-
tory as the old-fashioned gray striped linen
for real slip covers. and for housekeepers
of this mind novelty comes this season In
a couch cover woven the size and shape of
a Bagdad curtain, with border and fringe
finishing the ends. 1t is cool-looking and
adjustable to any couch and easily arranged.
New bed spreads are of Marie Antoinette
lace, woven the right size and shape, with
center design, and square border surround
ing 1t, more or less elaborate.
Another new kind is of lace and watered
silk combined, the lace of various heavy
styles. The centers are of lace surrounded
by broad band of silk, pale yellow, old
rose or other shade; then wide insertion
of lace comes with another band of SILK,
then the wide lace border. The edges
where they join are irregular, like the
dress laces, and have the effect
of appliques to some extent the silk being
cut away beneath to follow these uneven
outlines.
Novelties Shown.
Among little novelties are sofa cushions
of ecru or gray linen or duck, with large
design painted in dull green and blue COM
bined, heavy COUGHING cord of the
shade of the linen outlining them, their
good style depending largely on the pattern
chosen. Photograph frames are of such heavy
crash-like linen, bright red being promi-
nent. Flowers from wall paper cut out
and applied a fayorite decoration
Sometimes on the red silhouette forms in
black are used, and sometimes they are
embroidered; but applique work leads
That red still holds it's own is proved by
the numbers of small useful and decorative
objects made from leather in that color
everything possible for the desk outfit,
boxes, frames and numerous odd articles.
Dark blue leather is effectively combined
| with red and lines of gilt. A blue box, for
| instance, has the bottom and sides of blue,
while the top of red with fieur de lis of
/ blue outlined in gold at set intervals 1t is
! pretty .conceit, the facing being always of
| the red on the blue background, only the
| feur de lis design being used while the
| idea is brought out in many shapes
Evening star., 1901-04-06

roses wrapped in a ilaring holder OF white
moire paper
Black velvet ribbon. in graduated widths
Is one OF the very approved modes of deco
ration for transparent lowered materials
and later on fiounces will be so employed
III the composition of the skirts that an
effect as bouffante and extensive as that
lent by the old-fashioned hoop will be
given these fragile costumes. This at least
is what the most authoritative dressmak-
ers are saying, and, for the spring trous.
seau of a southern belle a radiant PINK
muslin. THAI is in process of making Illus
tfates this possibility very convincingly,
The skirt of the gown is encircled with
twenty-five founces. beginning with one
OF considerable width at the foot they de.
crease in breadth until the last one. that Is
gathered into the waistband, measures but
one inch and half in width. Every
hounce Is edged with a bouillone of whito
chiffon, and this skirt, that can almost
stand alone in Its cIisoness, more nearly
resembles a giant pink rose than anything
else Under this skirt fun ffounced pettfr
coat of white book muslin is made to be
wcrn as the foundation. The -dressmaker
who fashioned this cloud of rosy muslin
says that she has many orders for gowns
OF the same style. to be worn I'm July and
August at the fashionable northern water.'
ing places.
Evening star., 1901-04-06

oriental rug pattern, and another one dull
red plain velour. The walls were quite a
feature being covered with the woven grass
mating, with panels of tapestry set at in
tervals in differently shaped spaces. These
Were all figure pieces, and the subdued
shades in many colors were well brought
out by the green background.
Extra Pretty Details.
Several pretty tables We're scattered
about. waste basket tied with soft change
able silk scarf, and a higher basket, used
as a jardinere, We're useful as well as
pretty minor details. Two of the easy
chairs had the broad arms and side basket
for work or book, which are so much
liked, while a light stand for magazines.
newspapers and such debris had their
Evening star., 1901-04-06
THE SHIRT WAIST.

Practical Hints on the Proper Way
to Put One On.
From the New York Herald.
With the approach Of spring the feminine
mind turns to the question Of shirt waists.
Are they or are they not to be worn again
this summer? Fashion gives it's opinion
that they are to be worn. This will be the
greatest shirt waist season of all.
can hear the sigh Of content that goes
up from many an anxious woman's heart.
What makes the shirt waist SO popular?
AS simple looking as it is, a shirt waist
takes as much time to put on properly as
an evening dress
1 say properly advisedly, for there ere
ways and ways Of putting on shirt waist
A woman never looks so trinity dressed, SO
altogether "chipper," as she does in shirt
waist that is well put on, or so slouchy as
in one that is badly put on, and for the
sake of those dear women Who for lack OF
knowledged or inspiration have rever
learned to do the thing properly I give
here few rules which, If followed to the
letter, will guarantee shirt waist figure"
to those who have dreamed of one, but
have heretofore had no personal acquaint-
ance with it.
My method is my own peculiar invention,
and 1 have shared the secret with only a
chosen few till now. when my conscience
no longer allows me to hide 1t from the
feminine world.
First. then, take the corset you are wear
Ing straight front, of course. for they
can be bought now in the cheaper models
as well as the most expensive, and just at
the end Of the eyelets, at the bottom of the
corset, sew a loop of inch-wide ribbon on
either side.
Now put on your shirt waist fastening it
with the tiny pearl buttons which are to be
SO fashionable this summer. and tie your
stock, taking care to lap 1t neatly in the
back
Then, with two small safety pins, pin the
belt Of your shirt waist at the back to the
loop of ribbon as tight as you can stand it
without being uncomfortable or making
yourself feel like a horse with too tight a
check REIN
Now take your hand mirror and turn
around and look at your back. Did you
ever get quite that fiat effect before? Did
your shirt waist ever fit so smoothly be-
tween the shoulders? For my own waists
the side seams and then hanging free, so
that I may pleat the front of the waist to
suit myself
Smooth the waist down well, then under
the arms and over the hips, and pin it on
each sde Then pleat the fullness left into
side pleats, and If you are thin enough to
stand It, blouse 1t little in front.
Now fasten the loose ends of your belt,
and there you are, warrant you, with a
better shirt waist figure than you ever
dreamed could be yours.
The problem of how to pin shirt waist
down remained long unsolved to me, until
sciousness, but I had my reward when a
friend to whom had whispered my secret
said to me last summer: do You know, the
most valuable present you ever made me
was your method Of putting On a shirt
waist?"
Evening star., 1901-04-06
Fashion JOttings,

Miroir velvets in cream, gold, pale turs'
quoise and mouse. both plain and stamped,
form the foundations of many lovely
toques. Some are studded with Jewels and
are almost invariably softened with feath-
ers or wreaths of PINK roses and Parma
violets.
How attractive are the numerous access
sories of the fashionable toilet of the mos
menti Take, for instance. the delightful
little jabots pins and belts.
A fashionable woman possesses a dress
Of beautiful, fine, silky black guipure over
mousseline de sole. In this she is wise
enough to have the yoke and sleeves quite
transparent, and with ii she wears only q
rope of costly pearls.
Evening star., 1901-04-06
THE LADY TEAZLE CURL.
1t is a Long Love Lock, Graceful as a
Grapevine Tendrii.

1t is Long Love Lock, Grace1uI as
Grapevine Tendrif.
There is proof positive afforded by the
Easter fashions, that the cut of the gowns
is affecting the arrangement of the hair.
The coiffure that accords with an evening
gown opening low upon the shoulders is
fluffy ondule ripping from brow to nape,
and finished by large, loose roll of hair
pinned very low at the back of the neck.
From this roll one long Lady Teazle curl
flows out upon the left shoulder. Some
times this curl is real, but there is no rea-
son why 1t should not be boldly purchased
at the hairdressers shop, where beautihll,
long rich love locks are for sale.
The curl that is now offered for sale Is
not ali abnormal, tightly rolled, wood shay
ing cylinder of hair, but tress three and a
half to four inches long, full and loose, and
twisting up only at the tip like grape
tendril. Some of these tresses. by the way,
are enormously expensive, and are worn as
carefully as jeweled ornaments. case in
point is that of a ringlet worn by pretty,
wealthy New York girl, whose hair is a
peculiar rich red gold in color, but not suf-
ficiently abundant to guarantee the sacrifice
of a third of 1t to the making of Lady
Evening star., 1901-04-06

clusion in the convent where for another
half dozen months she is clad in the con-
vent students habit. The child comes home
merely because there is generally a senti-
ment in regard to having the family priest.
who has probably baptized the girl receive
her into the church.
For girl of twelve nothing could have
been prettier than the gown that small
freud Of mine proudly displayed as her
toilette de communicate. The material
was fine white muslin laid over white silk.
The skirt was very fuIl-in fact L thought
1t tritie coquettisn for so solemn an occa-
sion, and so hinted to the little curly
haired Babette, who merely raised the
sflken lashes over her deep blue eyes in the
greatest surprise.
"Ah. but it is so chic! Madame. can
aught be too good for the occaSiOn?' And
who can cavn when the communicate
fauntS her furbelowS in this spirit before
the throne of grace?
Charming Costumes.
Over the hips the skirt was laid in
narrow pIaits that half fattened the side
Evening star., 1901-04-06
Timely Hints to ofhose About to
Furnish.
PRAIRIE GRASS CHAIRS AND RUGS
Many Novel aad Comfortable
Shapes Shown.
OLD-TIME IDEAS, TOO


Written for The Evening Star.
We live ever in the future, and while en-
joying the present, our thoughts are usual
ly of the coming season, our plans for it,
our anticipations Of it, and arrangements
must be made mentally. before the neces-
sity for change arises. Merchants cater
constantly to this tendency of human
kind, as, indeed, all their business
is carried on upon this principles; before
one seasons output is in the mar
ket, manufacturers are busy with pro-
ductions for still a later one. Our shops
are already gay with pretty things
to be worn after Easter, and equally
numerous are the novelties for house deco
ration for the coming spring and summer,
when, in this climate at least, heavy fur
nishings must be put in the background,
and only things that conduce to coolness
are inviting to the fancy So now, with
this point in view, all wicker straw and
wire grass furniture Is we'll to the fore,
fairly forcing the season and enticing one
to foreStan even spring shopping by secur-
ing some of the pretty pieces while the
stocks are still fresh and complete. A few
articles of this light furniture should be in
every house, both because of it's airy COOL
ness and also because it can be so easily
moved about another desideratum in warm
weather.
More Artistic Now.
Some years ago all such things were in
the natural ecru coloring, then much of it
was painted white. then the green stain
became fashionable, applied after the fur
niture was made. and in the latest effects
the soft, lusterless green comes from the
material ITSELF which is the prairie grass,
so long considered useless beyond hope
Now all kinds of pretty shapes are made
of these pliable green strands and hun
dreds of articles are offered for choice
These are of daintier make than the
merely summer furniture, made for porch
use, and sitting rooms, smoking rooms and
like apartments are very attractive in this
style. I have only recently seen a room fur
nished entirely with this grass furniture
and while it was intended specially for
summer in this case, with slight variation
it would be equally suitable for the year
around, especially in a suburban or coun-
try home. Pretty rugs of the prairie grass
lay on the dark floor, some of them
stained in dark reds or blues to con-
trast with the green, and woven in stripes
usually. OF course wool rugs could be
substituted for any but warm weather.
The sofa, in Davenport style. had velour
tufted seat cushion of eeru of pinlSish
cast, while a soft cushion at one end had
the same covering, and one on the oppo-
site end was of changeable liberty silk,
green, pink and yellow L
One big chair had seat of velour In
Evening star., 1901-04-06
DAINTY SPRING MUSLlNS
EXQUISITE TOILETS THAT WILL BE
SEEN IN THE NEAR FUTURE.
Embroidered Organdies That Are
Sure to BE Popu1ar-A New
Applique Lace.


NEW YORK, April 4, 1901.
It is to be hoped that Jupiter Pluvious
realizes that this is to be muslin-clad
spring, and that he will display proper
consideration for the many exquisite filmy
toilets that are to be exploited on Easter
day In the morning and thereafter.
Some of the muslins, those that possess
backbone of alpaca threads, can take the
moisture with fearless grace, but the
newer and more beautiful embroidered
lawns and light cotton veilings that bear
the poetic name of Lalla Rookhs show no
stamina whatever when the air is heavy
and damp. They are soft and languid by
nature and a shower VIII undoubtedly de-
stroy their beauty as effectually as sea
fog takes the pride out of an ostrich
feather. Viewed. as many of them were
Evening star., 1901-04-06


PARIS, March 23. 1901.
With the approach of Easter every one
Interested in young people about to take
their first communion is anxiously shop
ping No season is fraught with greater
Importance than that when ia petite
demoiselle'' is formally united with the
church. Indeed, next to her wedding day,
it is the most important of all days to
the "ieune femme of France. For
few weeks shop windows and dTessmakers'
show rooms literally overflow with the uni
forms of the season. To France the spring
communion is a time of as great interest as
the commencement period that in America
is the last formality divorcing young wo-
manhood from the school room.
The girls here. however. emerge only
temporarily from their convent retirement
to take part in the impressive communion
services whose splendor in the wealthy
families is of a character to distract the
attention from the quiet pursuit of learn
ing in ciOistered solitude. But, then, after
all France is a land of contradictions and
contrasts. and the Parisienne finds the rul-
ing passion strong even in anticipatory
thoughts of graveclothes.
The Necessary Wardrobe.
For the celebration of the great event
in the young girls life half a dozen gowns
are ordered in fashionable famiIies-one of
these for the services in the chapel or
church. another for the preliminary serv-
ice and a third for the receiving of friends
at home after the event is over. Made
moisole always has new street gown.
which she wears happily back to her
Evening star., 1901-04-06

pompadour baskets from yard or two of
muslin and by the aid of fine stitching dis
tribute them on white cotton point esprit
It is a very fragile decoration, this Prin-
cess lace. but 1t lasts the h,etime of a mus
lin and is the most sympathetic decoration
vet found for the filmy gowns.
One or two Easter week brides have or
dered colored sprigged muslin frocks for
their attendant maids. One of the sweetest
of these little wedding toilets is pale yell
low muslin embroidered In single sprays of
forget-me-nots. Darker blue panne than
the forget-me-not blossoms is employed I'm
the finish of the waist, and bouquet of
be carried by every one of the bridesmaids,
the dressmaker explained. For another
wedding the maid Of honor is to wear an
adorable blue orsandie, besprent with very
shadowy wfld roses Her hat Of blue straw
ia heaped with eglantine foliage and bios
som. and her bouquet is to be Of pink
Evening star., 1901-04-06

applications for three-quarters of Its
length. Below the folds undulated into a
very fair imitation of g. shaped founce, the
surface of this being ornamented with
eroups of narrow tucks. The front of the
skirt, itself a separate breadth, was COW
cred with groups of narrow tucks. The
upper part of the waist seemed mass OF
tucks interspersed with narrow lace inser-
tions. The puffed elbow sleeves were
headed by oblong shoulder bands of lace
and stitched muslin. Encircling the girl
i-h waists fold of soft white silk matched
the bands that divided the upper and lower
puffs of the sleeves. Babette described
everything with pTecocious accuracy:
"For my toilette de lendemain'' Ghe day
Evening star., 1901-04-06
compartments and was Of an attractive

compartments and was Of an attractive
shape.
A much gayer, but more graceful room
may be arranged with prepared walls
and linen taffeta on couches and chairs.
Particularly effective in this combination
Is the arm chair with wings, SO called
the small projections high on each side, at
right angles with the back. and, too, the
CHAIR tongue" which is quite charming,
and the Morris chair, always favorite.
This is rather the newest Of anything in
this light furniture. but the frames. with
fine Japanese mating for seats. backs,
table tops and 70 on. are very good also,
Evening star., 1901-04-06
GET STRONG
VimOf Makes Weak
People Strong.
WE GUARANTEE 1T
WILL DO SO.
WE KNOW OF MO TONIC Or
REBWIlIDER LIKE TIT.
yinol does create strength.

yinol does create strength.
We know that and have proved It in many In,
stances
The vinol rejuvenates and strengthens q
person is that 1t acts directly upon the stomach,
Strengthening and tonng up this great vital organ
and enabling IT to obtain for ITSELF from the food
that is taken into #, the elements which are re-
quired to make firm, healthy flesh and muscle tiss
sue sound bone structure and pure, healthy blood.
Vinol does this in a scientific way and is ens
abled to do It because # contains, dissolved in
delicate, mild wine, in highly concentrated statcs
the active principles OF cod liver oil.
yinol does not contain any OF the grease that
formerly characterized cod liver oil, hence is fres
from all the Objectionable features which made ID
impossible for patients to take retain that yie-
smelling remedy into their stomachs.
yinol in it's favorable action upon the stomach
and other organs of the body acts also in a bene-
fcial way upon the and brain. and viii be
found to be invaluable to brain workers we'll as
body workers.
The following letter is from a well-known au-
thoress. 1t reads as follows;
81 wish to acknowledge the receipt OF the Vinol
and testify to its great benefits Since taking II
I am much improved in health, and during the In
tense heat OF last August should not have been
able to continue my literary work If it had not
been for the strengthening properties Of NiDoL
Yours In gratitude. ELLA STARR, JOG W. S2d
St, n. Y. City.
We wish any one suffering from
weakness, a demoralized condition
of the nerves, or a susceptibility to
wasting diseases, to call on us and
hear what we have to say in regard
to Vinol.
Try it on OUR recommendation,
and if you find it does not do every-
thing we claim for it, we will gladly
refund to you the amount you have
paid us.
Evening star., 1901-04-06
New Method of Using Feathers.

From the Millinery Trade Review.
Ostrich feathers are more worn than
usual at this season. The broader brim-
med hats are often trimmed with them.
black than in color.
A new method Of adjusting ostrich tips is
to attach them to the semi-coronet, which
tits the hat or toQue to one side SO that
they stand almost erect, the points curling
back over the brims. In this case the coro-
net may consist of a semi-circular orna-
ment in pierced gilt metal or cut Jet. The
gilt ornament is chosen for toque, made
Of pink lisse, arranged In quantity of fiat
pleats, like the leaves of q book encirclins
the edge of the brtm; and to this are at
tached, in the manner just described, two
black ostrich tips. The same arrangement
is carried out with white tips and a jet
ornament for white tulle toQue. the tur-
ban border Of which is yelled with black
tulle very closely sewn over with square
black spangleas
Evening star., 1901-04-06

following communion, which is also holi
day to the fair communicants) II shall
wear this frock which mamma ordered for
me- oh, many weeks ago. from her own
modiste on the Rue de la Paix." And the
small bit of vanity dragged from it's tissue
paper wrappings a dainty frock of fancy
salmon silk. Sweet and girlish it was,
with the incrustations of lace on collar,