The times., 1901-04-21


refractory.
The accession Of the Princess OF Wales
to the throne Of England viii be the sig
nal for its conservation. Everyone is
aware that the new Queen Of England has
for many years previously adopted this
stvIe. and as matter of fact, sovereigns
can impose upon their subjects their style
of dressing the hair, as well as fashion
in other resuect=. one can recall to mind
the long hair as worn by Francois J. the
advent of the wig with Louis XIV, the
baby hair under Marie Antoinette. the
Greek style of wearing the hair that came
into favor with the Empress Josephine
the haudedux and curl papers imposed by
the Empress Eugene. All these ways
were adopted by the women of fashion of
their respective periods
For the benefit of my readers ! viii
record the results of several visits nave
had to hairdressers' shops:
on the Boulevard Haussmann, at the
establishment a la Madeleine. l was told
there was q general tendency to low
cofffure. with the chignon on the nape of
The neck. recalling TO mind the style of
the Second Empire.
Broad. soft waves are now being con-
structed into light puffy bandeauX, which
in 10 way change the usual aspect OF the
face. The chgnon is worn extremely low
and Is compoyed of soft tresses frequent
" fslseD i'm which for the evening gar
lands of flowers are interspersed. This
style is very becoming and very young
Sometimes. even. the flowers fall over the
neck This, it appears, is step III the
direction Of the curls and 'anglaises
worn by the mothers and grandmothers
of the present generation
AT DondeTs / was assured that, al
though all girls have now adopted the
low coiffure. there are many women
whose resistance it is very difficult TO
overcome. Here also l admired the
speaking models of hairdressing, which
will obtain the sufrages of a good many
women who have not Yet made up their
minds Here also, waving, in all its
grace is respected Moreover, combined
with modern hygiene for the hair. which
has become so much more general in
recent years. the natural color Of the
hair has been resumed. and dyeing kept
in reserve as the last resource for hiding
grey hair.
The return OF the low coiffure brings
about a great change in the ornamenting
Of the hair I therefore paid visit 10
Nine Camille BrouiIlct, who has made
special feature OF this department-piquet,
flowers.
mony with the gBrlands of flowers which
the dresses on view at last years exhi-
bition caused to bloom in all the windows
of the specialists.
Muslin flowers are the most stylish.
Small pompon roses, eVoking the vatican
period are usually preferred by girls III
tiny wreaths, surrounding the chignon.
and garlands falling in cascades over the
corsaEe and forming epaulettes. The
empire dresses so much worn this sea-
F0-sN~ 10
the bust breaking to some extent the
stiffness Of the line; garlands of fuchsia,
mixed with maidenhair fern, for instance;
roses mixed with lilac. naSturtlum, etc
Cold roses appear TO have had their
day. When bright cOlored flowers are no
longer worn ladies take for choice mer
curry wings in spangled tulle OF wreaths
in the ceres style in spaHgled foliage.
All these flowers are made at present in
very subdued colors. with foliage in the
same stvle, of a pastel tender green that
looks as though il were frosted.
The same class Of flowers, in soft and
extinct shades, will be found, moreover,
upon spring hats.
No one can escape the law Of fashion,
and even little children-boys and girls
have TO submit TO the same charming
but eVerchanging caprices OF those which
rule the esJhejc destinles Of their moth
ers. Nevertheless, the one thing that is
Interchangeable is the lily whiteness in
which ii is the custom 70 clothe the little
Cherubs during their earliest years.
I have admired the models designed by
the Maison Giraud, which are exquisite in
their special style and so attractive that
one would gladly prolong as far as pos
eible the dellgniuHN pure days Of IN
fancy. Of which the livery Of white ap-
pears to be the emblem.
! notice with pleasure that children's s
dresses. unlike those Of their mothers,
are getting shorter every season. Their
ridiculous length a few years ago made
the wearers look like grandmothers, or
like the comic heroines Of Kate Green
a shortened
knee. showing the pearly white calves
is not a dress Of frllled nalnSOOk, cut
with rows OF irish guipure Insertion, eH-
QuiSite IN its dlaphanouS WhlJenesS, with
its four point collar forming a soft yoke
ana its half-length sleeves, and with a
coIored ribbon marking the line Of the
blouse corsage tied negligenty on one
side2
Another dress looks as though the de-
sign had been borrowed from dainty
old English engraving; the empire cor
sage. which is initiated 10y small pleats
graduated; the little round cut decollete
formed by a Marie Antoinette nchu. with
a Tosette of pink comet ribbon IN the
front The lower part Of the dress is or
nameuted with q festoon Of embroidery
Another. also very simple, is fascinating
by its old-time outline. II is cut in the
fourreau style, and very closely adjusted
in the upper part by cores and openwork,
through which escape tufts Of embroId-
cry IN pleats. which gives q combination
Of style and simplicity.
This enumeration. however, must be
limited. for however much ] might enter
into details, I should never succeed in
conveying the impressions Of light and
airy grace suggested by these little mar
vels. ] cannot. however, resist the pleas
ure OF describing a lovely little mantle
that is exquisitely suggestive. It Is a
tiny three-quarter paletOt OF white MAIN
sock over a sky blue ground; the lower
part. which is rounded. Is edged with mar
row NalenCicnncs. Three rows Of InSer-
tion. inlaid follow the same movement,
and a large round collar. also incrusted,
encircleC the upper part, which fastens
with a ribbon bow The sleeves, which
are very wide and very ornate, are ezqui-
site.
For the moment. silk for infants dresses
IS completely set aside. and linen tri-
nmphs an along tho ling in its snowy
whiteness. without the aid Of silk, even
in the trimmings.
But. alas, the snow white days Of in
fancy are fugitive, and one cannot dwell
upon them forever.
Let me mention three dresses for diff
fsrent ages, which viii give an idea Of
their charm:
For a little girl seven years Of age. q
dress OF pink suTah. with tiny shaped
Gounces all around the bottom and ruches
OF mousseiine de sole to match. The up
per part Oi the dress is trimmed in smi-
lar style headed with TOsettes OF pink
rnousseline de sole. and a scarf Of the ma
serial around the waist.
This costume is for girl nine years oi
age. II is made OF red louisine, a most
useful material. and is sun Dieated al
over. with yoke Of Cluny guipUrc and
sleeves with cuffs and puffs Of Cluny lace
and small Wristbands
This costume Is for a girl Of thirteen
il Is Ia the tail0r-made style and is Of
ecru linen. Tho skirt is orna nented round
the bottom with Greek pattern in white
piping cord. The bolero. which is very
short Is trimmed ia the same style IL
"a of fffarr Itch al.s-g.fs 4