The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1901-02-17

Dame Fashion, looking critically at the
2proaching styles, has placed the stamp
+ her approval upon the long cloak.
Other styles that have come up to lie ad-
mired by her have been passed coldly by,
but upon the long cloak she has laid a
caressing hand.
If the long cloak was fashionable last
spring, and more fashionable last faH, it
will certainly still continue to increase n
vogue the coming months. 1t is SAFE a.
this writing to declare it will positively
be the cloak of spring.
The straight, severe automobile has
been so changed that you can scarcely
find 1t among The long cloaks, yet al the
newcomers are its cousins. beaiing a
strong family resemblance 10 it. For This
reason the woman who possesses an au-
tomobile can be sure that she win be in
style with il this spring. no matter " hat
may be the particular style Of long coat
that may happen to be the vogue.
The collar of spring is the rolling col
lar, which can be turned up into a Me
dici. There is also the perfectly straight,
very tall. standing collar with rolling
points in front; and, besides these here
is the Aiglon. which is a straight Little
band, not very wide and hooked in front
Its finish is usually band OF military
oraid There are few varieties offered in
the collar line, as any attempt at change
IS SO productive OF unbecoming results
The pulled collar, resembling on a small
scale the bishop puff was introduced. but
it gave to the fat woman a jowly look
and was net acceptable to any except
the extremely thin woman. and even she
Ii
graceful neck under a fat little puff of
lace edged with bands of heavy cloth.
The low-cut turn-back collar, the mans
collar it is called, meaning his coat col
lar. is the Oldest yet most fashionable
style Of neck for the coat of spring. be
IT long or short.
1t is to be 4 sad spring for those women
who do not court the microbe. asserts
Augusta Prescott. With the long cloak a
long skirt must be worn; and with the
long cloak it is impossible to hold up the
skirt. There is a decidedly ungraceful way
Of catching the cloak by the middle of the
back and lifting it and the skirt up to-
gether. which destroys all the effect OF
the long lines. Gotham women are letting
the cloaks touch, and from under the
cloak hangs a long swishing skirt. drag
ging itself over the sidewalk in trail
The esthetic side of allowing a skirt TO
drag upon the sidewalk admits CT no dis
cussion; il is past all remark. But. in its
favor-if there can be any such thing as
favor in such a matter-it can be said that
the style has its own grace, which is prob
ably its excuse for being 1t makes the
figure tall aud slender. Skirts will be
lorger than ever; that is positive; and
cloaks will touch or almost touch the
street
The vogue for white shirt waists for
tailormade gowns has already been COM
mented upon. These waists are not only
of white silk, but of white wool materials.
White flannel waists ~ith narrow en-
broidery il white, 2lternated with clusters
of vertical tucks, are very attractive;
other white waists are trimmed with
bands Of white silk White fiannels strap
ped and stitched are also good style. The
Stitching is usually in white but some
very chic white flannel waists are stitched
with black and trimmed with tiny black
buttons. The touch of gold is on open
waists, as upon everything else. Gold but
tons, large and small. glitter on waists !,
of all kinds. Gold braid is also used, |
frequently in combinations with black vel |
vet. for neck band and belts.
Empire green enameled leather belts. |
with gold buck!eB or clasps, are a novelty |
of the hour. Barana crepe is a new mater !
ial for evening gowns. 1t is a fabric mid |
lin.
Girls party frocks nearly always ap-
pear with elbow sleeves. Very often they
are laid in tiny tueks, which are allowed
TO fare out in frill over the forearm.
and fall Of lace is placed beneath. The
necks are cut square or round: they are
left to show the bare throat, or they may
be filed in with guimpes of lace or puff
fed chiffon. The position tab or back is
a fashionable adjunct TO many OF the new |
Elton jackets and round waists. 1t may |
be a single tab or double, though always |
short; it may be cut in one with the back |
of the garment, or again it is attached to |
a lower edge and the joining concealed by |
a folded sash or belt.
Black and white fabrics are very fash |
ionable for eeremonious gowns for ma |
irons; a material of black and white in |
alternate stripes of satin and velvet is |
much used, trimmed with lace. which |
forms the sleeves. and a lace fichu fas- |
tened by turquoise buckles.
Blue is a favorite color this season. |
very pale shade both in velvet and satin; |
IT is relieved with contrast of white, |
and sometimes a pinkish mauve is intro |
duced
Just at present the princess dress COM
pleted with a short bolero is a popular |
mode in Paris
The ordinary gold tags and spikes are |
giving way to the more elaborate enam- |
eled ones. Some are in the shape Of pan |
sizes, daisies and violets, others are con- |
ventional scroll designs, but decorated |
with Jewel and enamel
Dainty turnover collars are of white |
silk. hemstitched and embroidered.
Mourning handkerchiefs show the own |
ers' initials merely etched in tiny black |
letters on a 1lmy white ground