The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1901-06-02

From roses, pomades are usually smaaa
| through the process called "exhaustion. -
! stated simply, it is in the following vUa,,.
Great pans filled with lard or beer fst
are covered thickly with the petals ~
| the blossoms and then heated by stean,
AS they begin to give up their essences
| their color pales, an occurrence which !.
the signal for their removal. The larS
is then covered with fresh petals which
again are only allowed to remain on its
| surface long enough to lose their FRA
GRANGE Three of four times the larS =
thus strewn with fresh petals, until ~
mas become so thoroughly saturated with
their doors that it will receive no more
| The fat then is placed in a sieve and The
thick substance which is pressed out Of
| 1t is called pomade.
| The distillation of scent Is usualIv dono
by machine which collects the water
or oil and thus obtains the very n,,in
tessence OF perfume. Something of ito
| value may be conceived when il is knour
that 10000 pounds of rose leaves produce
but one pound of the essence but ~
such intense strength are these essences
that with the aid of oils, resin or soma
amman secretions, perfumers, through
combinations and manipulations. can a.
tain from them almost any desired scent.
They can, moreover, keep strictly In
pace with the fashions. 1t is because 80
| TINS that we occasionally read of +ba
! immense sales which some favored orohi5
perfume has had, although we may know
that this particular flower is quite lacL-
ing IN the charm of fragrance. At ona
time we had thrust upon us innumerabIs
golden-rod perfumes because the nIart
| was then being talked about for Tho
national flower. The sweet-scented golden
| rod sohdago odorata, however, is tha
only one of the great tribe which has
any perceptible odor, and that being
similar to anise would hardly be agree.
able to wear continually about ones
clothes. At the present time, violet ia
the most fashionable scent. and +be
| flower has been perfected to an astonish-
| ing degree. Besides the output from va
rious other places 100000 pounds of thesa
blossoms are used annually at Grasse In
France and 10000 pounds at Came and
Nice. To obtain this perfume the flowers
| have to be treated in quite a different
way from roses. Like heliotrope. tuber-
roses, jessamine and mignonette, thew
cannot be subjected to heat. Therefore
they are brought into cantact with wool
saturated with olive oil through which
their particular oils pass outward; or
else they are exposed to lard thinlv
spread on framed sheets of glass or
course as with the rose leaves these
! flowers are renewed until the grease is
Everything. it must bo remembered
In connection with the handling of the
flowers must be done quickly, for much
depends on their perfect freshness their
scent being their most elusive and quick
ly lost characteristic. At GraSse hun
dreds of women are about before the
dawn picking the blossoms, which they
also clean and pile in great masses in
the work rooms. These places must be
spacious, full of light and air. but never
admit the direct rays of the sun. Owing
to this very necessity of speed the yearly
product of essences which is now enor-
nous, would not be possible were it not
that the flowers follow each other IN
succession. in their seasons of bloom
ing
Always there seems to be a demand
for some new scent. The we'll known
fragipanni essence, which at one time
was only detected on a certain select
few. is made up from several species Of
plumeria a genus of plants which grows
in certain parts of South America and in
the West Indies or perhaps more especi-
ally from plumeria rubra, the japanese
Gichia now the most exclusive and fash
ionable scent, leaves a wave of faint i'm
pressions similar to the odor of sandal
wood.
To the women who would seek for
money or renown in the procuring Of
original scents or salable pomades it may
be limited that knowledge must in soma
practical way be gained of how first
to obtain lard absolutely pure and with
out the slightest tinge of odor. 1t also
must be so clarified that rancidity is
impossible or all pomades will fall before
the tests to which the dealers subject
them.