The daily morning journal and courier., 1901-09-28
delightful surroundings. The coasts ol

1 delightful surroundings. The coasts on
 either hand are extremely wild and rugged, mountains coming down to
 meet the sea, their bases whitened by
 surf and worn into innumerable cav erns and grottoes. Long lines of dark, | saw-tooth cliffs mark the Spanish coast; and on the other side of the mar
 row waterway loom the rocky ridges
 of Barbary and Morocco In the south
 ward distance you see dim shapes, like
 shrouded monks, lifting their snowy
 coWls to the sky. They are the Atlas
 mountains, and the singular thing
 about them Is that they have compara-
 lively no foothills or ascending grades.
 each colossal height standing alone. a separate cone of mottled rock, devoid of vegetation Above all the rest one tremendous height stands boldly out. like the Abbot of the snow -cowled fri ars. It Is Mons Abyla, celebrated in classic history as one of the Pillars of Hercules" but now designated by the title of Apes Hill" An old Moorish
 tradition declares that on this particu- lar mountain of Africa were born the first monkeys that ventured across the straits. Descendants of the same tribe still inhabit the rocky fastnesses of Gi-
 braltar. They have, the distinction of
 being the only wild apes in the whole
 of Europe, and are carefully protected
 by law. Directly opposite Abyla, on
 the Spanish side, Calpe, the highest
 point of Gibraltar, is the other legenda-
 ry Pillar" formed by Hercules when
 his fn Codoc ba %or hoe
 asunder to force passage for himself.
 To the ancients, you know, these Pill
 lars of Hercules marked the boundary
 of the navigable world, all to the west
 ward being mystery and darkness.
 Navigators of the olden days contented
 themselves with cruising the Mediter-
 ranean, which in the time of the tri-
 bunes was known as "the Roman sea" At rare intervals some adventurous Co., lumbus slipped out between the Pillars into the unknown Western Ocean," and turned his galley along the coast as far north as Cornwall where he traded trinkets for tin with the half-savaga Britons.
 If you came to Gibraltar via the At lantic, your first glimpse of Spain was Cape Trafalgar, made historic by Lord Nelson. On the opposite coast, far away to the right, is Cape Spartel the northwestern corner of Africa, where Barbary wreckers used to put up false beacons to lure mariners to destruction. The world is growing better now and Europe and the United States together maintain huge revolving lighthouse | of the latest pattern on that rocky | point, whose alternate red and yellow glare has saved many a gallant shin from Davy Jones' locker The great f Bay of Gibraltar sweeps in horseshoe fashion from Algecera around the rock. { which thrusts its embattled walls out into the sea as if proudly conscious of England's power The grim sentinel that guards the gateway to the far east Dristles with cannon from top to toe. One of the greatest marvels of modern are the galleries" as they are called, hewn into the solid rock whose face is honey-combed with open
 ngs for the mouths of cannon These numerous openings, ranged in zigzag lines all over the face of the cliff, look so innocent from below that strangers often inquire if they are not the nests of sea- birds, or the lairs of the law-pro- ,ected monkeys. If you are so lucky 8 Q be escorted by a soldier-gude through these long winding galleries, you find that just back of each seaward opening is a tremendous cannon, all 'eady for it's work of destruction You ire permitted to go only about half way to the top; but that is quite though for ones endurance, though the