The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1901-02-10

Theoretically says Richard Whiting
there is now no season in Paris, Just as
theoretically, there are no fashions. This
means that one section of society is still
sulking with the Republic. The idea is
that it will be inconsolable until The
King comes back. and that 1t disdains all
those mundane vanities in which it has
no better leader than a President and
his wife. ! remember cnce seeking out
NJ. Worth now long since gone to his ac-
count, to enquire of him, in spirit of
philosophic investigation, how the fash
ions were started. l had imagined that ii
would be interesting to discover the very
fount of inspiration in these matters, 10
find out exactly how a new skirt or 4
new bodice was revealed to the race. He
satisfied my curiosity in the most obliging
manner. though at the outset he assured
me that. under the Republic, the fashion
were not started at all. They simply oc-
Cured. in a more or less fugitive fashion,
because there was no one to set the need
full example.
In the old days. he said, it was simple
enough. He hit upon an idea, and submit
ted il to two or three ladies of taste in
the court of the Empress. They liked it,
or did not like it, and taking counsel with
him, they finally shaped IT into something
which they might feel justified in laying
before the throne. 1t was then further
modified on its way to perfection. AT
length came the great day, say the open
ing Of the spring races, when one or Two
of them imposed it on the mass of woman
oh h
that-it started on its travels round the
world.
But, virtually, of course, life has to be
lived, Just as women have to be dressed,
ana so, no matter what the regime, things
get themselves done after a fashion. he
science OF sulking with the Republic has TO
own certain limitations. And in writing
of dress the first thing that catches the
mind is the fact that aigullettes are TO be
seen everywhere.
They are sometimes gold, sometimes sill
yer, sometimes o&idizei. They are made
OF hligree or massive designs, and the
newest for evening are jeweled with dia
monds and tasseled with pearls. They I'M
ish long lace or tulie or chiffon scarves or
evening cloaks: they depend from fichus
OF delicate gauze, they give a snap 10
velvet ribbon cravats, or add touch 10
the clustering chOuX Of ribbons that
brighten some quiet self-coiored waists.
Belts OF coins. jewels and enamels are
much worn. and velvet belts with broad
enameled clasps CT buckles or jewels are
graceful and pretty for 4 slender waist.
An odd neck chain is OF small plaques of
porcelain. threaded on rows Of tiny 'ene-
tian beads. Another peculiar valuable or
nament is a long chain Of beaten gold. with
large cabcchon sapphires at intervals of
about en- inch threaded on it. short
necklace made Of cRbochOn emeralds and
big baroaue pearls and rope Of pink coral
and pearls with pendants OF uncut tur-
quoise is sufficiently curious 10 tempt any
lover OF barbaric jingles 10 buy ii.
An antique ornament bought from a
member OF a noble family in France"
dates back TO the First Empire. 1t con-
sists of three sections which together
form ceinture for the old Josephine
gowns. each part being so hinged and
1ointed as to give with every movement of
the figure. The ornament il made up al
most entirely of rose diamonds, but cut in
the old fashion; and the centrepiece,
which is separate, is all in Brazilian brill
liants. Turned upside down it would make
an exquisite tiara.
Crystal points are among the spring
novelties, to be used with crystal buttons
and buckles in the decoration Of light silk
and cotton gowns. but the wonder over
grows Those used for belts are larger,
more elaborate in design and heavier than
We remember to have seen them before,
and mighty serpent of gold twisted into
G belt ornament measuring nine inches in
length is one of the longest seen. Anoth-
err beautiful imported Partisan design IS
an ivory face, about which was blown
cloud of gold hair as large in circumfer-
ence as the saucer of breakfast coffee
cup.
Much used at the present for the garni-
ture of dressy costumes and evening
wraps is a lovely variety OF old Flemish
lace. 1t is of a greyish white tone and
rather coarse. The design is large and
open, and the spaces are filled in with
fine gold thread after the manner some
what of the humble darn.
Cut work is still most popular as gar
niture. The latest style in which II ap-
pears, both in cloth and velvet. shows an
outlining of the pattern with a tiny thread
of gold or chenille, and girdle ends, col
lar and revers points. trimmed with this
frightened cut work have lit-le gold fer
rets or sequins as a finish
From one to three narrow shaped
founces are seen upon the newest skirts.
When in cloth. these are covered with
close rows of stitching in white or self
color, with pleasing effect.
in countless shades and varieties viii lie
much seen on spring gowns. Black viii
take fits usual precedence, but generous
use will also be made Of handsome shades
of Russian green, orchid mauye and
superb tint of purple like dark % rsy
petal. but with a glow of crimson on the
surface. A becoming tone of Roman red,
a beautiful one Of pinkish violet and
brown and green Will also be in high IA
vor. f
Among the popular novelties IN trim
mings is the use of gold bands, studded
with black velvet buttons or embroidered
In black or white or colored silks These
are much seen on cloth gowns in the pale
coiors 80 much worn. ANY sort OF en-
broidery on gold is good style for dress
trimming, and so is chenille embroidery
Of various kinds. Gold Of rather dull,
bronze hue is preferred TO the brighter
tones auong fashionable folk.
All OF which in the matter Of trimming
seems 10 point to the fact that handworl
IS the thing. Run gold thread around your
cut work. embroider your bard trimmings.
sequin your gowns. do anything that viii
prove You have put much haEdw0rk or
your frocks and you are all right. Hand
work Is about the only thing left that
cant be done by machinery and conse-
Quently. cheapened. Therefore 1t is tho
vogue In exclusive circles and among those
who do not wish to see copies Of their
gowns on every side.
Where Women Are Needed.
There seems to be a shortage Of wcmen
in the British colonies II the reports of
the census taker are true
In two Of them alone-Canade and Aus
fraIia there Is a chance for hall a ,,tl