Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1901-02-22
STYLES IN MEMS DRESS
TIPS FROM ACROSS THE POND ON
WHAT TO WEAR.
E@New-Fad In Neckwear-SOme Small
-~-~ Dress-White WOODEN Gloves.


London Correspondence the Haberiasher.
One would have thought that the infinite
variety of material and design now to be
seen in the cravat world was wholly i'm
possible of extension; nevertheless 1t is my
duty to record the advent of yet another
style In the wealth of stuff devoted to this
particular department of masculine garb.
1t consists of three-colored silk shot er-
feet Hitherto, on this side Of the water,
at any rate, the shot effect cravats have
been confined to one color; 1t might be blue
or green or crimson, but never a combna-
ton of the three. Now, however, some
very pretty and neat effects are being worn
in combination of three shades. The most
popular appears to be one composed of
heliotrope, crimson and green, in stripes
about three-quarters Of an inch wide.
Along each stripe there runs a design in
clusters of small diamonds, of the same
colors, but arranged SO that each stripe
bears the clusters In different color to
itself. The clusters themselves form larger
diamonds and are separated by about an
inch of space. Tied in the prevailing style
of small sailor knot with q good spread
ing apron this material has a very pleasing
effect and looks decidedly smart.
The fur coat comes and the light Chester
field goes, the flannel suit fits fitfuly across
the sartorial fed, the bowler supplants
the straw other fashions have their day
and cease to be. but the dress suit we have
always with us. 1t is remarkable how this
particular garment. so essentially a feature
of the domain Of rank and fashion, should
retain Its severity of style Time was, In
the far-distant past, when men allowed
themselves to appear in a garb a little
more in keeping with the dazzling fancies
or their fair partners. Possibly we shall
live, some of US, to witness something like
a these
the latest thing Of 1901 may turn out to
be but rehash Of the vogue popular with
our grandfathers in 1901. 1 'ha' me doots.'
however. Your average Englishman seems
to have settled down into the firm conv1c-
ton that his evening apparel should err OIL
ways, If at all, on the side of severity and
plainness. Show him something new and
fancy and he shudders and murmurs darkly
about outsiders" and Founders" 1t is
nothing to him that he may be, and often
Is, mistaken for the waiter, He prefers
running the risk Of being ordered to fetch
up whisky and soda" to the horror OF
anything in the nature of frills or fancies
to st.nguish him. AS result the recorder
OF fashion fluctuations usually finds little
70 prof1tably occupy his time in the inspec-
ton of evening clothes. Nevertheless there
are certain little changes which take place
from time to time, all the more important
from their scarcity. which It is necessary TO
observe. Mindful Of this 1 will endeavor to
give a full and accurate description of the
modern correctness Of style in mems even
ing clothes. Since last dilated on the sub
3ect some small notifications have occurred.
Correct Evening Dress.
The correct evening garb for the recep-
don of the new century must be made OF
smooth-faced worsted cloth. which for the
purpose has superseded the oldtime wi
cunas.' 1t has a dead-black crepe finish
with very minute TWILL hardly percepti-
BILE, running across 1t. The coat is made
with roll collar faced with black silk,
having a slit about an inch deep in the
place where in an ordinary coat the lapels
would come. The sleeves fit closely over
the shirt cuffs and are provided with three
buttons, made to fasten or unfasten. The
tails medium in length and are not
so sharply finished as they were. The lin
Ing throughout is of black satin. To be
ultra-smart the waistcoat must be white.
with low, well-rounded opening and OF
that peculiar cut which gives them the
appearance of being double-breasted at the
top and single-breasted at the bottom, the
front lap falling back at an acute angle.
Men who eschew extremes OF fashion, how
ever. may quite safely wear the ordinary
black single-breasted variety with three
buttons, even the same cut In white.
Pocket flaps to the waistcoat are not popu-
lar, but many men have special pocket
put IN to receive their cigarette cases. In
the trousers the chief point to note is that
a slight increase in width has crept into
vogue. double row Of quarter-inch black
braid or of three-quarter inch single Is
necessary down the legs, while Of course
the everlasting crease down the front and
back remains as pronounced ever
Evening shirts retain their severe plain
ness of fronts and cuffs, but many of them
are made in the body part Of striped long
CLOTH In single or double stripes about
three-quarters inch spaced. The correct
number of studs is two, which may be
pearl or unmistakable gold but not dia-
monds The same substances are proper
for cuff links. The collar should be OF the
deep stand-up variety, not the double
slightly overlapping in front. The cor
rect thing in ties is one Of fine white cam
brio, slightly corded, the ends square and
about an inch wide tapering down to three
quarters Of an inch in the middle. 1t
should not be tied in the tight butterfly"
form, but rather loosely, SO as to present
a parallel appearance. The extra long ties
which were so popular and which made
such big spreading bow are now defunct,
the proper thing being one of medium size.
leather, of unblem1shed gossiness with
black cloth uppers. While on the subject
of evening dress / may mention that the
dinner jacket shows signs Of waning popu-
only permissible with the Jacket and never
quite settled in favor with smart men.
White Wooden Gloves Popular.
The forecast which I INDUCED in a couple
of months ago as to the probability OF the
white wooden glove returning to favor this
winter is being amply verified. Quite
number Of men are to be seen sporting
them daily in West End haunts. No doubt
when the prevailing mildness Of the wealth.
er gives way to the icy blast they will be-
come almost universal. At present hey
are worn chiefly in the evening, for jour
neys to the theater, etc. Another kind OF
wooden glove which promises to become
consists of a variegated gray
pattern of great profuseness in desgn-in
fact, almost identical in style with the socks
to which 1 alluded in my November let
ter. There is, however, no hard and fast
rule about gloves, each man wearing what
seemeth right in his own eyes. The buck
skin, despite It's clumsiness, is much worn,
while the antelope skin, which sacrifices
warmth to extreme thinness, remains in
favor.