The Washington times., 1901-07-14
Fashion at LOngChampS.
A Contrast of old styles and Those
of Today.

PARIS, July THE race in Paris is
among the most important society func-
tions, and it appears that the devotion
TO this fashion is a concession to modern
taste.
The truth is that the origin of racing
goes back to the ancients, who regarded
it as honorable to excel in that exercise.
Racing was one of the principal features
in the games of the stadium among the
Greeks and in the games of the circus
among the Romans. In the days of the
Caesars Rome had jockeys tcursores),
trainers (agitatorsl, who wore special col
ors, like those of the various stables of
the present day-white, blue. red. green,
purple and gold. The jockeys were re-
cruited from the slaves, but when the
emperors regarded it as an honor to full
fill their functions the great personages
Of the empire followed the august exam
pie and Rome had her gentlemen
riders" Caligula gave 2,oo0 sesterces to
his trainer. The prizes consisted of med
ais, cups, and sums Of money, to which
were added palms and wreaths, after the
manner OF Greeks. Betting was very
prevalent and not less eXtravagant than
it is today.
II is probable that the beautiful patri-
clan ladies', so fond of exhibitions OF
strength and skill. witnessed the eques-
trian sports from the top of the gradh'
and Wed with each other in the richness
of their costumes, in the embroidery of
their chIamydes. the draperies of their
peplums, and the glittering Of their fibu-
lac and Jewels
How far back must one go for the orig
in of horse racing in France? No one can
tell exactly. In a popular song in old
Armorica there is mention Of race the
prize of which was the beautiful daugh-
ter Of the Breton priest Badick, who dleo
in 15Je.
In ali ages the greatest personages have
patronized this class Of amusement.
Under Louis XIV, hich was period Of
ultra AnglomaEia, there was a veritable
frenzy for bets and for sporting contests
in the English fashion.
When, therefore, Louis XVI came to the
throne he vas much concerned about
these violent passions, and resolved 10
nut an end TO them by setting an exam
pie of wise moderation. Here is a note
which is published in the memoirs Of
Mime. de Genlis: AT the last horse race
NJ de - lost seven thousand louis; M. le
COmte de L won six thousand. The
King bet one little crown. This is very
mild lesson, in very good taste, on eX-
travagance in betting.
But the fierce revolution adopted stern
6r means: namely, the absolute suppress
sion Of this form Of amusement. which
continued until Napoleon, conscious Of /
the favorable influence Of racing IN i'm
proving the breed Of horses in France. /
finally restored the pastime of horse
racing
This is a long preamble to explain the
fact that for many years the taste for
racing has seized hold on the people. II
has. nevertheless. remained an aristo-
cratic sport, and a certain number Of DAYS
are marked in the records Of society with !
q white stone. The day Of the Grand
PrtX-a race established in ls62-for many
years subsequently decided and settled (
summer fashions. This custom stiU ex-
lists, but the day has become too vulgar
lied TO be still the select day OF the year
The earlier meetings have today a su-
perior claim from a fashionable point Of
view, ana 10 De IN the "dernier cTi' an
original dress must be put on daily
/ wll conclude my weekly gossip by de-
scr1blng some Of the sensational dresses |
seen last week But let me first saw a few;
words respecting the society notices Of the |
Grand PriG In the year 1865 when the
triumph Of Gladiateur caused such enthu- |
Eiasm.
High chignons and false curIs WED
with each other in the height of scaffold-
Ing, on the top Of which were perched the |
tiniest Of hats. CrinOiines spread our into |
unrneasured width, and Algerian shawls. |
Wnich appeared as though embroidered 4
with electric ligNt. softly enveIoped th. |
eusts Of women Of fashion" "A little
1urtner on we noticed the tightly envelop-
ed hgure OF Rosa Bo~neur with the red !
rbbOn Of the Legion Of Honor al her
buttonhole" 4" etc
In the year 1s71. after the mention Of the |
y !
this: Among the costumes there were |
some very pretty ones: the Ceres cos
TUNES were especially noticed; sky blue /
dresses with hats Of Italian straw and /
ne!d popples. Faille predominates every /
Where. with embroidered ornaments A !
dress OF yellow green faille. with large |
scarf OF scarlet brocade draped over the 1
skirt, attracted much attention -
Does not this clashing Of colors make |
one shudder2 Blue faille and popplesi /
Green and scarlet The supremacy OF !
modern taste Is beyond question Our I
pastel shades OF color our silks softened 4
by a yelling Of muslin. our delicate in /
crustatlons. our embroidered laces our /
Eoft and fluffy Innings. our snowy and fur |
beloved underlinen attest the refinement !
81 our taste.
Another dress is OF pompadour taffeta |
patterns on a straw colored ground, !
striped with shaded roses and embroid-
cred round the bottom Of the skirt, which |
is made with groups OF small pleats round !
the hips. The cUrsage is bolero shaped /
in front and habit shaped behind. IL IS
encrusted with lawn and flowers cut out
of Chantilly lace. The sunshade is COM
posed Of ribbon and lace on a ground Of
white tulle.