The Republican journal., 1901-08-29
TRIPOLI.
f,ying Trip into one of the Barbery
states. A. Dash into the Desert.

states. A. Dash into the Desert.
-snecial Correspondence of The JournaL]
THE MEDITERRANEAN, Sailing West
rsyd July 10, 1901. According to the
visionary routes of travel in this part
n the world, laid down by guide books
and steamship companies, Tripoli be-
nngs to the Egyptian and Syrian tour,
and not to the department Of northern
africa. Certainly we had no intention
Al visiting it on the present trip; but
bsiue at Sousa, and seeing a ship just
rasdy to steam away to Tripoli-the
rsrg next southwark port-the tempta-
-;,l was too great to be resisted, es-
pq,ialy when assured that the detour
need occupy only four days time. We
have planned for visiting JET salem,
1sfa. the Nile region and incidentally
TrroI. sometime next year; but the
4r+lfe is uncertain and perhaps it is
a.s-r to miss none of the opportunities
Of to-day.
Trroi stands in the midst of an oasis
at re lorthward end of the great Liby-
2p lpsert. So low and sandy is the
shore that long before land is visible,
Nmes. towers and minarets appear to
r,g up out of the tranquil sea. Next
stately palms and date trees are seen
ory.t5pping ponderous walls; then few
hN cocks and line of surf; and finally
aVlde foundation of silvery beach and
endless sands. 1t is the only exception
Mt lave yet seen to the magniticence of
Hr jid coasts of the Mediterranean.
TIE lty of Tripoli, capital of the Mo-
hunmedan State of the same name,
occupies a rocky promontory, against
which the waters beat on two sides.
Tlr aarbor is formed by a low reef
winch extends from this promontory.
There are two or three breaks in the
--+i which allow small boats to enter,
t1t tie main entrance is hidden from
VIEW n the roadstead, around the ex-
urme edge of the cape. Owing to the
rigorous quarantine laws (Tripoli being
almost proscribed), most passenger
STEAMERS do not call here at all, because
70 dc so means twelve days in quaran-
nHe when returned to Christendom.
" anchored outside the harbor en-
rance amid a crowd of Turkish gun
heats and Greek feluccas, and hoisted
tie usual signal for the L. S. consul,
whose blessed Stars and Stripes could be
plainly discerned, futtering beside the
lei 5anner of the Sultan. On its land
side fripoli is defended by massive
WALL with bastions; and towards the sea
tpfesents formidable array of strong
ogts terminating at the southern angle
in au immense .castellated pile the
UrIer residence of the Pasha. All the
walls are dazzlingly white and fairly
ouStliug with cannon; while innumer-
4e domes and tall, graceful minarets,
sDiI a world of feathery foliage, gave
70, auI tirst really Oriental view.
finally, when all the tedious prelimi-
1a1-s had been gone through, we were
Permitted to squeeze through the harbor
entrance, between a line of Turkish gun
leafs round the mole with it's frowning
wl, and land at a rude stone pier jut-
ting out toward the harbor gate. Words
@l n attempting to describe the strange
Hds that met us ashore-dark, re-
D we. unfriendly faces; wild, savage,
almost naked beggars, who did not ask,
l- demanded bucksheesh; long robed
'eF7 and groups of ebony slaves; and
a swarthy Turk or Arab of
better fortune, as proclaimed by his
rich costuming, but more
Z 0e cared than those of inferior pow
Fl II looks speak truly. Donkeys
passed us, laden with gigantic water
Melons and driven by naked negro boys;
and along the beach trains of camels
were Unloading of silk, huge jars
li oil, sponges, SIENNA, wool, tobacco,
tephant's tusks, skins of tigers and
.eopards; for the entire trade of this Bar
0eEy state, as well as all the inland COM
Merce from Timbucktoo and Bornou.
tnds its outlet at Tripoli. The present
is said to be about twenty
ihousand-all Mohammedans, except a
few Greek and maronite Christians.
Tie city is built on both sides of the
n7er Kadish, among beautiful gardens
and orchards of orange, lemon, apricot
and apple trees. No place on earth
seems so wonderfully fertile as an oasis
Of the desert. Here water murmurs
and sparkles everywhere and covers the
MrFounding plain with greenest YER
lure In the heart of Tripoli the streets
are narrow passage-ways, like tunnels,
winding under groined arches. The
aoaSes-many of which yet bear traces
d american bombs and cannon balls
are very large and quaint, each like a
separate fortress, whose windowless,
ascrutable fronts give no hint of mys-
lenes within. OF course there are
Mosques without number; the princi-
pal one to which we could not gain adj
nlSSlon) being very large and handsome,
lObbp1 Inv Spvora1 small cunolas Amonu