Evening times-Republican. [volume] (Marshalltown, Iowa) 1890-1923, 1901-08-16
IM \ a TION JEWELS.
vENEERED DIAMONDS AND GEMS OF
FINE coLoREp GLASS.

vENEERED DIAMONDS AND GEMS or
FINE coLoRED GLASS.
Some Of the Modern Tricks of the
Trade-Fine Gold Settings Used For
Bogus stones-The Hnlo Around .
Genuine Pearl.
Although the imitation Of jewels has
been practiced for century or more
there are comparatively new develop
ments in the industry every few years,
and the business has OF late attained
enormous proportions. The majority Of
these stones are made abroad, and hence
they are imported. But while they are
exceedingly cheap and the duty is low
the attempt is occasionally made to SNUG
gle them into the country, and seizure
results. Again, the imitation is some
times SO good that even the customs Off
GERS are puzzled for time. However, it
is always possible for an expert to tell
the difference if he has sufficient oppor-
tunity to apply the proper tests.
limitations of the diamond, topaz, emer-
aid, amethyst and turquoise are usually
made of paste or strass, which is nothing
more. than particularly On grade OF
glass, to which, if the sto1F is colored,
the proper hue has been impaired by the
addition to some mineral substance.
There is at least one European house,
though. which processes to add carbon to
its diamond composition. thus securing
greater hardness than would otherwise
be possible.
In London still another plan is pursued
to improve the paste diamond. Genuine
diamond dust, produced by the cutting
of jewels, is treated with acid, reduced
to n plastic state and then rolled out in
exceedingly thin sheets. This veneer
is CUT into the proper shape and cement
ed on the faces of the strass. Glass dia-
monds can be bought for few cents
when unset but veneered diamond is
worth nearly 81. A high degree of skill
is required in its preparation.
There are several methods OF distin-
paste. Hydrohuoric acid will eat glass,
but will not affect the genuine stone. A
file makes no impression on the latter
either. Finally real diamond contin-
ues to glitter when immersed in water.
ers have the same composition as the
genuine stone. which consists OF corun-
dun. The latter variety Of imitation
ruby has the proper hardness and spe-
cific gravity. and the color is faultless.
1t can be distinguished from the true
ruby only by powerful magnifying
glass. Singularly enough, the genuine
article is identified by it's defects. There
oro no ,,ro ~, ~ -, ~,
imitation, although the imitation also
bubbles, for instance) which are readily
topaz and emerald, it is not wise to use
file. They are not hard enough to re-
sist it. The magnifying glass is the sur
of these jewels.
Owing no doubt to the fact that pearls
are often worn in strings instead of sim
gly or in pairs. like diamonds, the busi-
ness of manufacturing limitations of them
is far more extensive than any kindred
branch of the industry, except perhaps
the making Of bogus turquoises and en-
eralds and rubies for belt buckles. And
inasmuch as most of these imitation
pearls are exceedingly cheap it is posi-
may get a card bearing dozen stickpins
with imitation pearl heads for from 10
to 10 cents. II the stones were genuine,
they would be worth from 500 to 5000.
There are several kinds of imitation
composition. The glass is often not over
sixty-fourth of an inch thick. Thtre
are several different compositions used.
IN a
bead filled with that material would
crush easily. In other globular pearls,
pierced for stringins, a harder substance
is employed. There is an imported imita-
ton pearl whose shell is said to be made
Of fishskin and whose filing is COM
pound in which there is ground mother of
pearl, the lustrous lining of the oyster
shell. wherein the real pearl is produced.
This sort of jewel costs dollar or two,
and string of GO would sell for $3.50.
Real pearls of the same size and beauty
would bring fully hundred times that
price.
Although the manufacture of imitation
pearls was long confined to Europe, it is
now conducted in this country also. A
New York house. the first to engage in
the business. introduced novelty to the
tEaue u rev years uSO. III maze 6OllQ
pearls in addition to the filled ones The
composition employed is as hard as rock.
1t is almost impossible to break these
jewels. and their luster, color and ingen-
ious irregularity of form will deceive any
one who does not use magnifying glass
on them. The head Of this house tells
many amusing stories about the mistakes
made by expert jewellers and pnwnbro-
kers when these stones first made their
appearance. or course it is not easy to
fool an experienced person: still the ex-
pert must use powerful lens in order to
ascertain the real character of pearl.
He will not trust the naked eye. Occa-
sionally jeweler will say: No. cannot
detect an imitation pearl eight or ten
feet away, but il l hold it in my hand I
can see the difference between that and
the real thing. There's sort of halo
around the genuine article which is un-
mistakable." But other men in the
trade frankly admit that only by means
Of microscope can they discriminate.
A fashion has sprung up of late years
which enhances the deception produced
by imitation jewels. If paste diamond
is set in brass ring or an imitation pearl
Is mounted on German silver pin,
sharp eyed observer might suspect the
character Of the jewel. but when the set
ting is of II rarat or IS carat gold and
= L. g. 4. 4