The Honolulu republican. [volume] (Honolulu, T.H.) 1900-1902, 1901-10-20
Fashions and Society,"

IN HERE = ore thing Ne esn say Wit
INV pride unspeakzbie-that the avei
axe nan IN the average tram : %
~ lite 70 women We are lot Jet ;
far advanced II the art Of lookin
out for ourselves here Ia Ho1olnEz tba
We scorn protection il such little matter
IS accepting q seat either IN the electzl
OF Pains mule tram and / have notice
with interest the readiness with which
seat Is offered. For this courtesy we AZ
grateful. and yet some one-a man, O
course-has said that be looked upol
woman as & mathematical proposition
and | viii try and tel you why, in ii
ozn words. as wei as ] can remember.
i saw Der when she got on 81
weighed probably q hundred pounds let
Her height / should put at about Nv
feet three iaches. Her width was some
what problenatical- Let Us say, for n
purposes OF argument. that she couis
naturally occupy q tvelve-inch seatin:
space ard have an inch or two left owe
in case Of emergency When she got OF
the car there were a great many v8can
places She took up her position in on
of these. After she had settled herself
down there was no longer a gap between
her neighbor on the right and her neigh
Dor on the left. nor was there a gap be
tween either of her neighb0rs and herself
Before she sat down there was an open
4 ing between the two neighbors OF the
width of two car windows, or a total
chasm Of forty-eight inches Neither OF
the men moved after she sat down. And
We there was no space in sight
The deduction is simple. Granting TO
woman a legitimate width of twelve
| inches-a liberal estimate-and consider
/ ing the available space prior to her oe-
cupancy fifty-eight inches, il follows that
the woman was in possession OF an over
plus of forty-six inches-which it would
be interesting to account for. On behalf
of the considerations of research and ex-
animation. | endeayored to learn the in
wsrdness of the phenomenon. / politely
stood before the woman and asked her to
make room. When she gathered in
about two feet of skirting smiled peace
fully. But the woman's eyes snapped
| fire"
Now. wasn't that a mean man!
- ~
Artificial flowers are still used on
gowns, but in a new way, according to
the fashion-writers over the seas.
To be strictly modish, foliage is used
instead of flowers A gown | was told
about illustrates the latest method of
decoration. and was a combination of the
palest pink mousseiine and foliage. merg-
ing from the deepest shades of green to
a rudy bronze. The musseline, pleated
and drawn under a waist belt of black
velvet ribbon. was visible through the
foliage, which. in the form of a skeleton
bolero. was unlined. diminutive pufhngs
of the mousseline filling up the interview
ing spaces, the sleeves and yoke being
entirely composed of the transparent foil
age.
Another fancy of this same person was
blouse of the finest white mousseline
gathered full into a transparent lace yoke,
and fastened down the left side with three
clusters of red berries. This was very
odd and effective on the delicate, snowy
softness of the blouse.
Oddly-cut Etons appear among the ad-
vance models for next season. showing
curious half-length bell sleeves and cream
white satin undersleeves, the flowing Di-
rectoire collar lined with satin and edged
with cloth or velvet cut work. Below, the
jacket shows a deep corselet girdle. end
ing at the left side in three pointed straps
held by cut steel buckles.
The Princess cut is employed a good
deal in house and evening gowns. but out
doors is seen mostly in notifications.
This always is true. in some degree at
least. but usually its modification is in
tended to make the gown less trying to
the figure. This summer. however. the
accepted variation of the gown made out
right in one is to hem skirt and Tower
part of the bodice in one. Above the
waist line there may be only enough of
II ~.s:-t fabric - make bodice belt OF
ordinary proportions or il may extend
to the bust. Whatever the proportions
of this bodice portion. it should be lined,
and in this feature the ordinary dress
maker is likely to fall down hard. Ger
tainly I Sc on women horrible examples
of poor fitting in these gowns, so / think
they are as difficult to flt and make as
are complete Princess rigs. Yet their
number increases.
Mrs. James Castles figure is simply
divine in semi-Prineess robes, and her
Empire house gowns are dreams also. She
has the most perfect taste and the where
withal to crafty il. and the combination
is gratifying to her friends as well as
herself.
| happened to see. the other day. the !
sample OF the new fall tailor-made. and |
It's enough to make woman come from
the Antipodes. even with the thermome- |
ter registering 30. There is a fascina- |
ton about the first tailor-made that few |
women can resist One always wants to |
know about all the new points and in |
what way il differs from last seasons.
There are some radical changes in these |
for autumn wear, | noticed. 1t covers
one over the hips In many cases it has
the skirted coat effects of many seasons i
ripple over the tips. Regimenral effects
are also TO the fore. The skirts all have
the trimmed effect. but in self colors. II
Is obtained BY bands formed of stitching.
by strapped bands of silk of the SANE
hue as the dress One had the triple
7ounce effect. graduated in graceful lines.
The front was in the panel STYLE. Thus.
though the skirts are trimmed, they are
luiet and elegant There Is noticea0.e
departure from the much trained. almost
raw tailor suits Of the spring. One was
noted with CAV revers of brocaded Per
sian silk. but in the main trimmings are
10 braidings bands or stitch
ne in the same color as the gowns. a
'tyle highly TO be commended.
- y
Miss Mary Elizabeth Lewis. the tai
,nted young teacher of Oahu College, de-
ivered her second lecture at the rooms
e the Y. W. C. A. Wednesday afternoon,
Ter subject being Wordsworth and His
Nature Studies Miss Lewis was pref
ily gowned in pink and white and looked
cry attractive as she expounded the beau
les Of the poets work A dainty repast was
njoyed at the conclusion Of the lecture.
These Wednesday afternoons are thor
,ughly appreciated, and a large attend
nee Is invariahle assured MANY society
iris are much interested in the 7. ". C.
\ and give an afternoon Of each week
or practical service The lunches are
9th dainty and substantial. and supply a
ong-feit wxnt in the lives Of the business
vomen-
Mr. T-has,s1,r.n Xnr,asz r,s~fr,rns ~ sha