davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1901-09-22
PRINCESS GOWNS.
STIFF TAILOR MADE COSTUMES
ARE YIELDING TO MORE
GRACEFUL EFFECTS.

Beautiful Collars and Vests Are Seen
on All Dresses-They Utilize Every
Scrap of Leftover Trimming.
There Are a Few Desirable Ready
Made FrOcks-But the Buyer Must
Beware of Popular styles, or She
Will Meet Her Duplicate Many
Times.
New York, Sept. 2O.-To faithfully
reflect the glass of fashion this season
it is plain to be seen that the smart
gown must be more than ever cling
ing in effect. Street models from Paris
show a snug and sweeping grace of
skirt, while bodies are so cunningly
managed as to insure as much comfort
as style. The tailor gown on the stiff
riding habit principle, always in favor
in England, will never be adopted by
the tasteful Parisienne. Even when she
wears a so-called tailor frock 1t al
ways trails slightly, and the corsage
reveals becoming treatments in the
way OF contrasting revers, soft vests
and the introduction of some scrap of
vivid color. These exquisite gowns on
their native heath are not such expen-
sive luXuries; but in their imported
shapes, with the high custom duties of
the day to be considered, they are pos
sessions that only the lucky few may
own. For this reason only limited
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1901-09-22

less possibilities which collars and
fronts supply for the using up of
scraps of gold bullion. bits of lace and
gay velvet, jeweled buttons, etc. A rich
button or a morsel of any one of these
materials will prove treasure trove TO
the shipwrecked, for nowadays, as l
have intimated elsewhere, all is grist
that comes to the mill of fashion. For
example, one clever woman, who
knows the tricks of the French dress
maker, found herself the owner of a
quarter of a yard of gold braid-big
lotus flowers, raised high upon tinseled
meta scrap of turquoise velvet and
fragment of white cloth. The fashion
angels whispering their mission in her
ear she set to work to resolve them
into front" whose ground principle
should be the white cloth. This she
covered with the cut out gold flowers,
behind whose net centers she had be-
fore placed discs of the blue; then all
the edges We're fastened down with a
wide buttonhole stitch of the turquoise.
Only a gold edge showed on the high
curved collar, which was swathed with
the panne and fastened at the back
with three turquoise studs. At the
front was placed the best brooch, a
pale owl of the same stone, trimmed
with gem eyed serpents in rose finish
ed gold; and the homemade splendor
gave quite a French air to a black
gown that had sprung into being un-
der the same capable fingers.
1t only needs a little taste and
quota of wisdom to dress well these
times, for everything tends to make
the cares of the home dressmaker less
heavy than of yore. The patterns cut
to order insure almost perfect fit, and
the various elegant details that so en-
nance a toilette undersleeves, vests,
revers etc, can now be bought ready
to put on. 1t only needs, as l say, a
modicum of taste-and, / may add,
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1901-09-22

chosen for the quiet material. which is
a mottled wool In black and white.
The circular skirt is slashed over black
taffeta, the graduated openings being
edged with bias of white cloth stitch
ed with black. This also borders the
edge OF the skirt the curved lines of
the tablier, and the edge OF the bolero
jacket, which falls loosely over the cor
set-like top of the jupe. The princess
waist portion, which is unsupported by
any connection with the bodice, Is
heavily boned at the lining to make il
stand up trinity. It's outside material
Is cut bias and stretched tightly, two
under arm seams doing the fitting for
the waist and hips.
The jacket is made very effective by
a repetition of the skirt slashings in
shorter lengths over the black taffeta,
which likewise forms the pulled under
sleeves and the scarf decoration Of the
square neck. The collar and front,
which are fastened to fitted under
lining, are made OF white satin ap-
pliqued with flowers OF coral cloth
Gold and black embroidery richly tone
these al edges.
n scraps OF Trimmings.
And hers let US touch upon the end
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1901-09-22
JUVENILE SHOPPERS.
Woes of the Little Folks While the
Mothers Are Bargain Hunting.

New York. Sept. 2O.-"Now, be good
children. and mamma'n be back in a
few minutes"
The woman with a Boston bag and a
shopping list hurried off in the direc-
ton of a sign reading, Specialize day
Only-49 Cents" The small boy and
his sister fell upon their foaming
glasses of ice cream soda, while the girl
who had waited upon them remarked
grimly to the next customer:
"Humph! She won't be back in any
few minutes. TIN be nearer an hour.
That's one of their tricks for getting
rid of the kids while they shop"
And so it proved. For nearly an hour
the children fingered about the foiin-
tain, counting the spigots, specializing
as to why the soda fixed, roaming to
nearby counters, investing their small
change in illy-selected candy, and look
ing generally forlorn. When the
mother finally reappeared her bag bulg-
ing with parcels and her list crisis
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1901-09-22

Partisan of the three, the best dressed
ladies of this elegant world being not
over lavish in the matter OF trimming
for street clothes, but depending on ono
or two striking touches ana perfectly
Amounted details to produce the cnlc
ensemble for which they are justly re-
nowned. The material or TINS cos tuine
is novelty wool, in a sort plum WIFE, i'a.
The trimming. which on the skirt taxes
the form of a curious swirling band
highly ornamental, is of black VelVet
and bias plum silk covered by WEEP
hing of black. A novel vest OF the
black charmingly sets off the blouse
front Of the becoming bodice. AT the
hack IT has habit tails, under which a
velvet girdle goes to show at sioes anu
slip through a dull silver buckle AT tne
front. Knob buttons, also In silver
fasten the rever pieces, and the chem
ieette is of white silk spotted with
black.
All of the figures wear hats in the
prevailing styles, and those in search
of reasonable headgear Will ma In the
two outside ones effects not only ex-
ceptionally becoming, but in the best
taste. But aside from these rare gems,
and a few others, the first hats are not
ingratiating.
Gowns of Simpler Make.
The figures of the single cuts dis
play what the shops dub custom made
garments, which means that pile of
ready made frocks, a mountain high,
and in all colers of the rainbow, may
reveal single model. Therefore, If only
for the reason that you may meet the
duplicate of your gown on every street
corner, the custom made costume is
usually a good thing to avoid. But
here and there one will find a real
treasure among them, something mod
est enough not to seize the eye with
memory of things gone before; and
then, if it happens to fit her to a T.
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1901-09-22
MARRIAGE CUSTOMS.
Twentieth Century Rites All Bor-
rOwed From Antiquity.


rOwed From Antiquity.
How little the fashionable bride in
the smart set to-day realizes that all
of the wedding customs of the present
are rooted in the pagan past. The bar
barrie bridegroom procured his mate by
one of two methods-capture or pur-
chase. We speak always now of cap
turing" a bride, and purchase" is not
wholly unknown. In the former the
groom started upon the warpath with
some chosen companion, who assisted
him in Selling the woman; whence
cometh the custom of having a best
man."
The dainty gold ring of to-day Is n
relic of the fetter by which the bride
was bound, while the jocose slipper Is
a remnant of the missiles hurled by the
angry parents.
The orange blossoms came In a more
civilized age, though not Christian. and
augured great fertility for the woman
The VEIL as still in modern Oriental
countries, typifies exclusive possession
by one man.
Even the honeymoon is but the SYM
Dol of the interval which elapsed be-
fore the victor brought his bride from
hiding, and sought peace with her
wrathful kinsmen. Elopements are the
evolution of the running away. in
which an intermediate step is seen in
the pretense at capture still In vogue
among Irish mountaineers.
In Cardiganshire, Wales, a wedding
is very tame unless the groom captures
the bride after n thrilling pseudo-skir-
mish. The relatives offer mock rcvist-
ance, and much scufling and horse
play ensue. A dialogue IN verse-old
ballad style-beIng finished. the groom
is admitted and seeks the bride, who
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1901-09-22

crossed and crumpled in her hand, the
clerk was plainly relieved.
IF she hadn't come, pretty soon I'd
sent those children to the nursery.
Nursery? OF course, we have one. I'd
like to know what would become of the
poor little things who come shopping
with their mothers if we didn't look af-
ter 'em. It's funny how some wo-
men who could just as well leave chill
dren at home drag EN- down here, and
then wish they hadn't, and the young
sters get the worst of the DEAL"
The truth of the clerks statement is
proven almost every day in the large
retail stores. Two or three hours in
the fetid air of a great department
store, the strain of standing first on one
foot, then on the other, and the jost-
ling of careless, hurried customers, are
enough to exhaust the most robust
children. They become nervous and
peevish, and the mother blames the
children, who are really to be pitied.
These are not the poor from tenement
districts, but the children of compare
lively we'll to do parents.
There are various points of interest
in a large store, and mothers some
times avail themselves of this means of
temporarily disposing of their tired
charges. The soda fountain leads in
popularity. The toy department comes
second, and the long settles in the shoe
departments furnish a resting place
when the other two attractions have
been exhausted. Clerks admit that
children are wonderfully good under
such circumstances, and wait patiently
an hour a time for their preoccupied
mothers. They do not NEEDLE with
anything, but seem content to study
the glittering array and watch the peo-
pie. .-..4r
The clerks. too as a rule, are uni
formly patient with the little folks.
When business is dull in the toy de-
partment ii is no unusual thing to see
these much criticised and misjudged
employees kindly entertaining the small
boy or girl waiting for mamma TO
come" And II any trouble arises they
will invariably side with the child
against the mother. n.
One small boy, whose mother was
occupied with her shopping list, found
entertainment in twirling a revolving
stool close to her side. The stool need
ed oiling, and the mothers nerves need
ed a tonic. She slapped the little mar
tyr's hands smartly, then resented II
when the clerks glared at her and made
audible comments.
During a widely advertised silk sale
of recent date, an excited mother, pull
ing over the gay remnants, heard n
weak cry at her side. Her little girl.
whom she had quite forgotten dropped
in a faint. her breath literally crushed
out by the press OF excited women. In
the nursery. where the child should
have been taken In the first place, a
! physician was summoned al the ex-
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1901-09-22

pense of the firm, who spared no pains
to remedy the disaster.
Nearly every up-to-date department
store has its nursery in connection with
the ladies' parlor. This feature is not
widely advertised by the average firm,
because certain class of women will
abuse the privilege, leaving their chill
dren by the half day or more, while they
shop at other stores. But when children
are seen by the clerks to be utterly
worn out, or are found wandering
round the store aimlessly looking for
mamma" and bravely forcing back
the tears, they are sent to the blessed
refuge. where the air is pure and sweet.
where there are cunning chairs for lit
tie people, a couch or two, and white
aproned attendants who draw unlim--
tied ice water from the sparkling cool
ers.
Even the largest and most fashion
able shops are compelled to face the
baby buggy problem" Usually a side
entrance is devoted to checking the
buggies, and only the vigilance of the
attendants prevents the checking of
the babies also. why" exclaims the
mother in an injured tone 81 shan't be
ten minutes, and / know he won't
wake up"
But the attendant knows just how
far ten minutes will go on a special
sale day, and he is obdurate. Baby goes
with its mamma.
At a conservative uptown store,
which has a liveried attendant to as
sist women from their cabs and sum-
mon carriages, that disnified factotum
recently entered the following COM
plant with the firm:
IT was hired to look after carriages,
but not baby buggies. If that front
vestibule is going to be used for check
ing buggies with babies in 'em, and
only me to look after 'em, don't want
the job
Investigation proved that at certain
hours of the day a section of the ves>
thule was literally packed with baby
buggies, holding sleeping infants, and
some that did not sleep, and the man
had actually been compelled in sheer
pity for the children to vary his side
walk duties by jogging fretful babies,
The buggies were transferred to the
rear entrance and two young girls
were detailed to watch the wee
charges. But even they were
powerless to prevent trouble. The very
first day two women. excitedly dis
cussing prices, dropped their packages
into a buggy, presumably containing
sleeping baby, and hurried down
street. Presently a third woman, also
with bundles, claimed a carriage of ex-
actly the same style, but she determin-
ed to learn whether its occupant was
sleeping peacefully before starting out.
She raised the parasol and a maternal
wall split the air. 1t was not her
baby. An hour passed before the 9TH
err baby was returned and peace was
restored at the rear entrance of Smith,
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1901-09-22

as it sometimes does, we must confess
the woman who draws the prize is
blest indeed.
Think of what a saving of time and
tears spent on dressmakers! You have
not even passed single wakeful night
over it, for, 10! while you slept the
fairies have been thinking of your type
and have led your footsteps to the
magic store. Yes, ready made clothes
certainly tighten the cares of life, and
they are sometimes beautiful.
OF course, these convenient rigs vary
in desirability according to price. But
one very elegant embroidered robe
dress of smoke gray black embroider-
ed cloth. and also a trim Elton cos
tune. seemed to the meditating mind
of equal excellence, since each was a
member of limited family and a bar
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1901-09-22

gain to boot The two prizes are here
shown, the shining bands of the en-
broidered robe dress being of black
taffeta, and the openwork trimming
of the blue serge jacket gown of black
soutache braid, with vest OF black sat
in.
The suit the little girl wears is one
design the children's outfitters are
showing for girls from four to seven.
IT is in two pieces. of dark red CASH
mere, a skirt and REFER, with orna-
mental stitchings and braided yoke
collar, which may be in black, white
or the color of the gown. This model
is seen in several soft wool materials.
in red, blue, brown and tan.
Mary Dean,
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1901-09-22

number are brought over, and these,
in the main serve as models for do
mestic manufacture, the American
gown selling for perhaps a third of
the cost of the French pattern.
Three charming toilettes, fashioned
after late Paris models, have,been sup
piled by a leading dressmaker as il
lustration of this widespread practice.
In each may be observed the art with
which the French couturiere blends
materials, all sorts of odd combinations
being used to obtain original and sty-
lish results. The first example, the
gown at the left of the group picture,
shows black, white and coral pink, and
five distinct materials. An odd prin-
cess model, buttoning at the back, is
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1901-09-22

bushel of patience and a hopeful ma
ture that will stand by you when
things seem to go wrong. For, OF
course, every woman can sew.
Rage for Princess Models.
Coming to the. second frock of the
illustration another princess model is
seen, which shows that French de-
signers still continue to hold this style
in favor for slight young figures. The
material is biscuit colored cloth, orna-
mented with stitching in moss green
silk, which holds down two curving
tucks of the skirt and borders its
edge. he sleeveless bolero covers a
complete bodice of the cloth, and is of
panne velvet in moss green, with in
crustations of white and biscuit-colored
lace.
The third gown is the most ideally
The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1901-09-22

MENm Cook q Duchess Tablets are succossIny
$500 used monthly by over 10000 ladies. friee,
M y 81. BY mail, t1.08. Send cents ~, tOi
~ sample and particulars. The CooA w.
v z 1858 Woodward ave, Detroit, hich'
Sold In Savannah at cubbedges Fnar'
macY
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-06-30

keeper ~ records and seal. examined several
places for holding the Grand Lodge.
Red Cross Lodge, which Is the largest lodge
In the domain Of Missouri. elected eight repre-
sentatives to the Grand Lodge. The followin.
past chancellor were the successful ones: y.
W. Baier. II. W. Belding. John :. Blake. ". r.
Dean. F. II. Harkins. w. H.. Larh, A. J.
Kitchener and G. NJ Nicholson.
Excclstcr Lodge. at its last convention. elected
AZ delegates to the Grand Lodge Charles y.
Rigeiou: william Churchill. T. NJ. Lame and
Robert l.. Hid.
On Saturday evening. June % PnciGc Lodge
accepted an Invitation from Fleur de LIS Lodge
of Alton to confer the ranks Of Page. Esquire
and Knight on three of its candidates. Twenty
three Members Of the lodge went to Alton. After
the degree work the lodge adjourned to the han
quet-room. and the meeting was adjourned at
about : a. m.
On "Wednesday evening Pacific Lodre conferred
the rank Of Knight on three cs-d.da.es and
elected for Grand Lodge representative G. J..
Eostiba. Henry Webster. Wentworth Terry. r.
W. Folk and n. 8. futile.
Future Great Lodge held an enthusiastic meet
ing last Wednesday evening. One candidate was
Initiated into the rank OF Page. ampiife5 form.
N. u. Clemmond and C. d. Crandal werc elected
representatives to the Grand Lodge On next
"Wednesday evening there viii be work in amp'i-
Ned rank Of Page
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-06-30
NEEDLE IN CHILD'S STOMACH.
Its Presence Their Puzzles Sur
geOns Who Removed 1t.
REPUBLIC SPECIAL.

REPUBLIC SPECIAL
Newark. n. j., June e9.-An unusual surgi-
cal operation has been performed on Mary
Lang. Is months old. whose parents live in
Newark. Ever since her birth she has been
afflicted with continuous pains In the abdo-
men. Her parents gave her coiic medicine,
but 1t effected no relief.
A few days ago she became much worse,
and a doctor examined her. He noticed she
recoiled every time her abdomen was
touched. and told her parents her trouble
was caused by the presence of some for
eign substance in her stomach.
she was turned over 10 a specialist. He
a slender piece of metal in her stomach,
Last night, by a careful manipulation, he
learned just where the metal was and man
aged to bring the point to the surface.
applying a pair Of forceps. he drew out
u good-sized needle. Nowhere on the
chfld's body was there the slightest evil
dence of a wound such as would be caused
by a needle piercing the skin.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-06-30

The committees and representatives of the
city lodges of the Ancient Order of United
Workmen having In charge the Fourth of
July celebration and parade met at the
Grand Lodge Office. in the Benoist building.
last Friday night. and made final arrange
ments regarding the parade. The outlook
for a large turnout seems to be very :avcr-
able. The lodges in the vicinity of St.
Louis have been invited to attend. and many
of them have decided to be in line.
The German Workmen's Association held
its regular meeting on Sunday afternoon,
June Q. which was largely attended. The
principal business transacted was the re-
ceiving of reports from the various COM
mittees who were in charge Of the picnic
given at Lemp's Park June 3. which showed
that the affair was a success. both socially
and financially. The next meeting Of the
association will be held Sunday. July II. at
: o'clock p. m. at Eckert's Hall. Texas
avenue and Cherokee street.
Deputy Grand Master Workman I. B.
F1ory. in a letter written from warrens-
burg. Mo-. to Grand Recorder Henry W.
Meyer, under date of June IS. reports that
he has secured thirty-six applications for
membership for Sandstone Lodge, No. l37.
which is located at that place. all Of whom
will be initiated in one large class on July 8.
Farmers Lodge met last Wednesday even
ing. One candidate was initiated and four
applications for membership were prom
fsed for the next meeting. Past Master
Workman NJ. A. Higgins of Banner Lodge
conducted the i~nitiatory ceremonies and
gave a recitation.
Phoenix Lodge had a well-attended meet
ing last Thursday evening. Three candi-
dates were elected to membership and a
large amount Of routine business was
transacted.
Mechanics Lodge had a large attendance
OF its members on last Thursday night, al
so a delegation from Lafayette Lodge. not
w!thstanding the hot weather. The lodge
will supply each member who takes part in
the Fourth of July parade with a straw hat
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-06-30

were the feeturep.
Easton Council mad a full and enthusiastic
meeting. Notwithstanding the intense heat. The
grand regent was present and gave wholesome
advice.
Elk Council held Its fret meeting in its new
quarters In Howards Hall. Garrison ard Olive.
Florissant Valley and Sedaiia councils send in
good accounts Of last meetings.
The heat did not deter the members Of North
End from turning out In force on Monday night.
ID. ID. Hake was present ana made a helpful talk.
~ the conference q the grand officers hs.l
Wednesday evening At the Grand Council office
the grand regent annoTaced the promotions and
1: Carl Moller Of Benton Council. grand secre-
tary: E. n. Hake. Compton Hin Council. grand
Treasurer: II. A. Borgmann. North End Council.
chairman OF Finance Committee: H. II. McTyre.
Carr Lane Council. second member OF the FL
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-06-30

and a walking cane. which will be distrib-
uted to the members at a special meeting
to be held at the lodge hall. No. SIT Chou
teau avenue. Tuesday evening. July = Those
members who cannot attend this meeting 70
receive their hats and canes will call on
Brother Joseph Quigiey, No. 313 Chou
teau avenue. Wednesday.
Western Lodge initiated one candidate last
Thursday night and has one for the next
meeting. Elaborate preparations were made
for a good turnout OF the members in the
Fourth of July parade.
Benton Lodge had a good attendance of
members at its meeting on last Thursday
night. In spite of the hot weather. Two ap-
plications for membership were received.
The Fourth Of July parade was thoroughly
discussed. and IL was decided to give to
each member a hat and suspenders TO wear
in the parade. The members of this lodge
are to meet at the lodge hall at 8 a. m.
July 4. In their shirtsleeves.
Security Lodge had n good meeting on last
Tuesday night. at which Brother Frank l..
Boh delivered n chart lecture. This lodge
has decided to join in the Fourth of July
parade. and the members are to meet at the
lodge hall. Fraternal building. ut 8 O'Clock
a. m. Wednesday. prepared to join in the
parade.