The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1901-01-13
THE COMING FASHIONS
The Spring Patterns Decree That
Skirts Must Trail.
There Is Difference of Several
Inches Between the Pedestrian
Frock and the Gown for Calls and
PromenadinS - White a Favoritc
for Home Wear-BIouses and Hats.

Tailor-mad gowns will be very long.
There is no denying this fact The pedes-
trian skirt is in style and is the decided
vogue, but at the same time the pedes-
trian is by no means the tailor-made gown
of the modish world. 1t is excellent for
shopping, and, beyond question, the only
thing for the rain, but for nice occa-
sion the pedestrian gown must retire and
allow its more graceful sister to come
to the fore. And more graceful the long
gown undoubtedly is. Il gives height to
the figure. and grace to the carriage;
moreover, it is to be the style and must
be worn.
1t is strange thing to say, and dress
reformers will accuse us of going back
ward and becoming degenerates, but many
of the new tailored gowns are SO long
that they trail. front and back. They are
more than walking length. AS a protest
against the bobbiness of the pedestrian
skirt they are allowed to lie upon the
ground, and are actually two or three
inches longer than the actual skirt length
in front. This makes a very graceful
haBg, for by no movement of the figure
car the gown be lifted enough to show
disagr eeable floor space, but, on the other
hand, think how unhygienic such a skirt
may be.
A tailored gown is a street gown. 1t is
to be worn on the payements. Its mis-
sion is that of tramping how, then, can
ii be allowed to trail? But trail ii does.
Many of the handsomest tailor made
gowns of spring are actually two inches
too long in front and six inches too long
in the back.
One solution of the difficulty is the
practice CT holding up the skirt. With
both hands, one picturesquely placed at
the back where the plaQuet hole would
come and the other just as jauntily PLACED
upon the front, the skirt can be well
lifted. This, indeed. is its design. Tn
derneath every preparation is made for
display. The new silk skirts have double
Fittings of silk, edged with lace, and
many of them show four rows of accord
ion plating one row above the other
to give the skirt the full ripple around
the foot. With this lot of silk rufiles.
cascading around her feet the woman of
style can well afford to hold up her tail
ored gown. But it is certainly depart
ure from the original intention of the
dress, which is that it shall be a walk
ing suit.
Braid will hold its own all the spring,
and the fancy for gold braid is not dimin-
ishing. On the contrary, 1t is used in a
greater variety of ways. tailor made
gown having small lapels of velvet was
trimmed as to its lapels with small hoops
of gold braid. put on in military fash
ion. They were very close together and
made 4 trimming which required no ad
ditions.
The very tight-ftting bodice seems to
have retreated again and it has gene
back as gracefully as it came. For a long
time it was not seen; then it came forth
for 4 brief season, but is now gradually
growing faint in the distance again The
pouch bodice, or the shirtwaist bodice, as
1t is sometimes called, has the fore
ground.
The tailored gowns of spring will be in
many hues. but scarcely viii black be
worn. The new gowns are incolors and
few are all in black. For those who must
wear black-and for stoutness there is
no argument-these are exquisitely fash
Toned black taiIor-made dresses trimmed
with gold braid and fitted with eccentric
cuff and modified lapel. There is a skirt
for these people showing ruffie set in
the side seams, something like fan, but
less voluminous in effect
White is greatly favored for house
gowns this winter, an item that ought 10
please the woman who has to dress on a
limited income, for one white gown made
in a not TOO pronounced style is not at
all likely TO pail on an audience. white
little society woman of modest means
is going to play the role of sole house
gown through the coming winter months.
II has a voluminous. accordion plated
skirt falling over a white taheta lining.
The corsage is the simplest accordion
plated blouse without vestige of trim
ming. Her def fingers fashioned no end
of little fetching detachable accessories
for this particular gown Belts and wired
Dainty lace and ribbon boleros, collars
Of jcweled velvet, and scarfs of spangled
chiffon. One Of her bolercs made of
Parma blue panne velvet ornamented
with spangled jet motifs, is quite novel
in design II is a decollete affair slash
ed at the front and draped up to the bust
band. The lower part Of the bolero
merges into long scarfs that are knotted
at the left side of the waist line 1t has
long, close fitting sleeves of the velvet
that are finished with faring velvet cuffs
Narrow black velvet ribbon plays an
important role in the trimming of these
light house gowns. 1t gives certain
amount Of character TO the paler shades
that would otherwise prove a bit insipid
without distinct note of black
gown OF pale rose gauze was made
very attractive by its trimming Of black
velvet ribbon. 1t was made up over
~ H--0tseAtA VI AttpFI IOcB ldueLd. ne
skirt was close fitting in the upper part
and the fullness at the back was supplied
by single shirred box plat A trellis Of
black velvet trimmed the apron for its en-
tire length, ard continued around the lower
part Of the skirt 10 form the heading for
a full iounce Of the pink gauze.
White silk blouses simply tucked are
very much worn now with fancy stripes Of
ribbon lace, ard narrow velvet ribbon OF
gold braid
Spring hats are already arriving from |
Paris. Nest Of those shown by a promi- |
nent importer for the coming year have i
tendency 10 be rather large, and follow |
very closely the styles that appeared dur |
Ing the latter part Of the present season. |
The trimmings are put on very fiat again. /
Large quantities OF foliage and flowers |
show clearly the tendency in this direc- |
ton Ribbons are used on some Of these |
early harblngers of the millinery spring |
msline and chiffon also. As for the hats |
Themselves. they consist of fancy straw |
braids, mostly in light colors.