The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1901-11-10
MORE IVERIES ARE WORN NOW
MISTAKES on THE SUBJECT
COMMON IN NEW YORK.
English Laws Of Livery which Americans
Will Disregard Blunders That Mako
Experts sad-New Fashions in Livery
From the C~oachman's Standpoint.

The use OF liveries Is increasing through
| out the United States. Where one family
put it's servants into livery fifteen years
ago 100 families do II now. Even In New
York. which has naturally enough always
been far In advance Of any other Amer
lear city In the matter, the increasing use
OF ~liveries Is sharply marked.
Horse shows are held in many cities
nowadays and their effect is to promote
the wearing OF livery. Still, much OF the
American livery is more enthusi astic than
correct.
There Ia one wealthy man In New York
who likes cheerful variety In his servants
equipment. Perhaps his wife IL RESPONSE
BILE for the shifting lines OF the livery.
Al any rate. instead Of slopting a. color
and sticking to il throurh house hveriee,
stable ~iveries. carriage Innings, DC. this
family has bought its carriages and traps
with an eye to breaking up monotony.
There is a victoria lined with maroon.
The coachnan and footman wear maroon
livery. With a blue-lined trap. blue liver
les come out. The house lveries are green
and scarlet,
The livery makers protested helplessly
and pleaded for uniformity, but the Gus
toner was firm. Hang the expense!'
was his motto and he couldn't grasp the
idea that anything save expense could
prevent a man from adorting all the colors
Of the spectrum for livery.
As a matter Of fact, IL a color IL chosen
for livery that color should be maintained
throughout the whole establishment; and,
| unless this rule is followed, the correct livery
Is black or dark Oxford mixture.
y With such a livery the color of the car
rage lining NAV be a matter OF choice,
and many Of the most fastidious owners
OF fine establishments choose black hveries
solely because they consider them more
swell than any color.
' Tho man who sells liveriee must OF neces-
sity be n diplomatist. He must guide ms
customers gently into the ways OF PHEASANT
ness and liveriod peace II possible, but
II they prove too o~bstrcperous and insist
upon their own theories, he must bow TO
the inevitable, smother his artistic con-
science. and give them what they want,
with What notifications he dares 70 make
Tho head of n well-known establishment
where the making Of liveries IN a specially,
sighed the other day. when asked whether
the world went well with him.
Il nave just had q customer he said;
swho wanted a livery fort butler. Showed
her an Immaculate black dress suit. That
wasn't at all her idea.
Il suggested that nothing else was correct
for a buffers wear. She scorned me-:
She wanted something tasty and elegant
Sine inclined toward English court boat
mans livery but we finally compromised
on a second mans livery, with a striped
yellow waistcoat and pipings.
I've an idea her butler IL n man OF all
work about the house, 50 the house SER
wants outfit will not he too bad.
European travel turns the attention OF
n good many families To livery. They
come home glowing with enthusiasm over
gold lace and gold braid, and want 10 make
their servants look like "A cross between a
London becf-eater and a French beadle'
"Of course, abroad. there II a good deal
OF what we call court livery, silk stockings,
patent leather pumps with buckles, Knee
brooches with buckles. fancy waistcoats.
ella borate court coat. powdered hair. That :
all right, il one can live up TO IT, but : ~
the only gorgeousness admissible, and IL
il out OF place except In an extensive es-
adjustment.
"lf one doesn't want TO 20 to that length.
one must 90 In for the most severe and quiet
smart ness and elegance. Anything snowy
IL in bad taste. Even the few French de-
partures from formal conventions are no'
considered correct in London or here.
"New York il GaC.,'lly getting a large
number of irrepToschAhle ~livcries. The
horse show has had a god deal TO do with
IL. But one sees breaks every day.
why, only the other morning ] saw some
thing on fifh avenue that made me tired
DO YOU know what a sham o%veTcoat is'
Well, when the coachmsu and footinan az"
not wearing their oNercoats' they are
folded over the back ~ the box -eat
Ntllf IHNbIlN' us FlltAl ''@f
aren't correct. They are had form, but no
one CHANGING az them can tell III" difference
This turnout on Fifth avenue had the
sham coats hanging over 10" seat ana
in addition both men bad on 'holr "Eercoats'
Now, what do Won think 81 that The car
riaga belonged 20 q family that should
knov better.
Then there are the cockades New
Yorker will have cJckades You may
tell them n IL dead wrong. but they -
......Ia .. mi Ius.. . NstF. ~ o. WAY
NO One who dua-n't belong 10 the army,
navy uf diplomatic oIfIr has any rlgh' 10
- onckad" 80 q" shoulder strap u would
que.r ~ london"r hoI~l"ssly 10 adopt
them tmBruu=dV. but Americans don
ear. fur livery law They think "'ohades
are the last touch ut elegaho
A. q WuWau said here the other dAN
They may not b. %cIrreo'. but they ar, ~"
dpadfiil, cunning t~"'kad"s wont ~
AZ tIr h.tr., sIoN. though Thai uha
u.rr az fw uss thiuss IN livery Ing
land Iati dYvu th" iaS i"ng ng", Ahd u
NaUir- ufft
a. London. o. f, huF ball bliiuu uu 'arl-
man aui f.Y'mau'r olats Ice piao' - Noe
s~lu.r utluual na' uuitur
Is lAttrr lao is.rU plrssiri ~ oalurs
~ tlr l,I-r far'pil'ps AID ih" ~ toll
lutHar u gali 90 sIIt'f utafh- sharply
tr tU" I.fsH.u liH" go ~ a''
u,tur. uua 600 1900 Nrs lnrbffr have
a~lHIfsi Dol i,ka tiIs tall aUI u-' h''a.i
IaIHlafHh auH
An.Iisi u.,,I, 10 rbs hussan H.,u.a'
g. uasNuah a4I t.a1uaU D. d~
.A o.. eel tu fhf ]ur'uuirl 90 ss ts
urIIlan srI t4| naI q iHa usi"l
auI fif. Uf % IH f. ruaIItF fHIF uH'
900 d. iH uiaH lH 81 rHi I' 100 "''''
u. rai Iis I.- Ia 10 ual'
q lls.t b. fU.ssHI deco CO., t.fF aiHI
taF e IH.4I .IaI .HI llnf 4 iaIaIai auHI