New-York tribune., 1901-08-21
ADVANCE MODELS IN COATS
THE TWENTY -SEVEN-INCH STYLE A FA-
VoRITE wITHewHOLEsALE BUYERS
THE NEWMARKET WILL HAVE
MANY ADMIRERS
MANY ADMIRERS.

All indications in the direction OF two classes
Of coats for the coming season-those twenty
seven inches long and those forty-two inches.
Some handsome models are of zibeline with revers
and collar OF broadcloth in A lighter shade. En-
broidery is added in several cases. and in others
there is a cordinG applique of faille or velvet
For formal wear velvet is said 20 be a certainty
as well as high grade velveteens. AS a rule coats
Of these last materials will be made long. with
ample fulness In the skirts.
The long coat Of former years has often failed
to be becoming because of its attempt 10 cling
closely 10 the figure. without due allowance for
skirts, but the new style is half fitting. with a
sudden flare the waist line TO allow for the
curve Of the hips.
The favored materials will be kersey. frteze
vicuna, broadcloth and silk. There are many va
reties OF the mode. including the double breasted
surtout. coachmens coats. long directories and
automobile styles. while for coats the Rag
Ian and Newmarket; made of kersey or Irish
frieze. will be the favorites
The important feature OF the autumn tailor made
costume IS the return TO the simpler lines few
years ago. II has been elaborated OF late that
1t was hardly recognizable as the mode based on
the severity OF masculine fashions. Embroidery
applique, tho thousand and fanciful touches
Of last year. will be ignored Dy the tailored
maid OF 1000 who VIII tolerate nothing more
frivolous than stitchings. straps and military
braid. Corded fabrics are returning 10 favor for
these costumes displacng the
smoothly finished cloths in vogue last year.
The fashions indicated thus FAR not encour-
aging the petite or the extremely slender young
woman, but there is hope. for her. Short
box coats blouses and Louis XIV coats all have
place in the list Of modish garments. every
may choose. little woman is likely TO he
grotesque IN long "three-quarters" coat.
and is pretty certain to be insigI ihcant in Sc
tailor made costume Her only chance lies
in studying her individuality. and even accentuat-
ing fl The dainty and the essentially feminine
her distinctive characteristics and, II prop
erly treated may give her a charm all her own,
If entirely unlike the more imposing impress
sion made by the tall girl Of ample proportion
who can look stunning in severe simplicity.
course. but the tight fitting coat that extends be
low the waist line IS for her. A jaunty REFER
may suit her well, and she is to be pardoned IL
she refuses 10 let the Eton go. II was made for
her by the guardian genius of little women.
Some of the sleeves in the coats are novel
in effect. Others variations of the bishop and
the drectoire. with the so-called Paquin, which
shows an undersleeve. still in the list. One long
coat seen the other day had rather large sleeves,
over which cape reaching to the elbow. cut
in another deep scallop to the revers.
The silk waists extremely pretty. Those
made of satin crepe de chine especially suited
to the autumn months. and among the newest.
Peau de sole also is seen in many handsome
models.
Flannel waists for fall are as dainty he
gined and strapped, stitched. gilt buttoned
and embroidered to. bewdering degree.
The dress skirt Of taffeta peau de sole is
more popular than and more elaborate.
Flounces. hemstitching. velvet appliques. cordings
and tuckings appear in the palmer styles. while
for reception and theatre finds lace
trimmed embroidered and even painted combina-
uons.