The Honolulu republican. [volume] (Honolulu, T.H.) 1900-1902, 1901-03-17
SUMNER STILES n
NETS FlsIIoIllLE Dress
WHAT THE MAN OF THE NEW
CENTURY WILL
WEAR.
The Comfortable and tire Sensible
Dominant in All Attire Designed
for the Heated Term-Waisteosts
to be Practically Abandoned.
From the Haberdasher.

froM Inc hdDerodSRSr.
The mode is elastic IL stretches
and II conforms TO the requirement.
Of the age and OF the season II re
fleets the customs and the habits Ct
the people and it indicates the pres
ence Of the particular sport that for
the time being is In the ascendancy
When the times are settled and men
/ go asong from one season to another
without changing In any very impor-
tant detail their habits of life, dress
is not likely to be subjected to any
radical changes. When our country
went 10 war there was an immediate
demand for things a Ia militaire from
the stay as well as the fight
ers. In the very decided military cut
reminder of the Spanish-American
skirnish- The broad -shouldered.
small-waisted man is from the model
issued from West Point. The long
full-skirted top coats and the short
springy jackets are purely military
in their general appearance. The erect
body with the military shoulders and
chest conformation is particularly
adapted to the new clothes. and so
long as the vogue sanctions athletics
and adores militarism man will dress
in smartly cut. close-ftting clothes.
Men who adhere to following the ex-
tremes of fashion have carried the
military jacket and peg top trousers
to limits that are net. to say the least
conducive of artistic results. These
ultra jackets and trousers are I'M
slightly. The newest models Cor
spring show very marked departures
in two important respects The first
is the length of Jackets. the second is
in the cut of jackets. The new jackets
will have four buttons with the front
slightly cut away. The spring will
be less decided than the prevailing
model. and the coat will be long
enough to cover the buttocks. Trou-
sers will be cut to conform to the new
jacket lines. and this means less of
the peg top looks. The trousers will
not be quite so full about the knee and
thighs. The bottoms viii be cut to
slope from the back to the front. and
will be about 91s inches larger than
the shoe size In all outing and neg
lige suits the trousers will be made
with finished turn-up at the bottom
which will be from ~ to inches
wide. All trousers designed for wear
without coat will be made without
hip pockets and without the strap and
buckle in the back. The belt loops
will provide for a belt not over ~
81 nj ~ ~ h.
center or the front. center of the back
and over each hip bone. This is four
loops. Some of the trousers will have
a at the top of the side seam. This
will be about two inches deep. 1t will
close with very small buckle and
strap. These side straps give a
smooth back and front to trousers.
Fancy FIannefs Give Way.
The fancy flannels which were so
common last summer will not figure
in the wardrobe of the well-dressed
man as extensively as they did last
year The suit that will take their
place is made OF very light serge.
which is in the dark blue tone. with
almost invisible stripes of green, red
or white running through it. These
new serges are also in the popular
flannel tones. but all of the effects are
very much subdued. Another suiting
that will be popular is the homespun.
These are in the natural light gray
tones. with the natural black, and
brown knots here and there. The gray
plaids in worsteds and cheviots, and
the new brown and heather tone
tweeds will also be in somewhere in
the neighborhood OF 1.-The finish" Blue
serge suits made with the double
breasted .threebuttoned jacket will
find a place in every wardrobe. 1t is
good handy suit. and can be worn
as it comes from the tailors or with
different trousers. Combination suits
of black jackets and fancy trousers
win also be in good form.
| am now reviewing informal dress
and will make no attempt to go into
formal attire. For street wear in town
and about the country the covert will
more than hold its own. although the
raglan will be very much in evidence.
The raglan is too long and mussy for
spring. and is ont of place when one
goes for a good brisk walk. II is
stable coat, a driving coat. something
never intended for the man who de-
ponds upon shank's mare for all his
transportation.
Waistcoats Abandoned.
The waistcoats will practically be;
abandoned next summer, and we will
have the neglige shirt in its place.
The coatless man is an impossibility.
and | do not think he will be seen
outside of low grog shops and tene-
ment houses The negIige shirts viii
be of two kinds. the plain and the
pleated. The fine trade is preparing
to give the pleated shirt the most en-
thusiastic backing. The best model is
the closely pleated front with the
pleats not over one inch wide. The
bosoms win have a square end and
viii be long enough to tuck in the trou-
sers That Is the end will be ont CT
sight There viii be nothing arbitra-
~ about the size Of pleats. They will
be made to fit the patterns in-the
skirtings. The plain front shirts viii
be made with and without the center
piece. In shirtings the large variety
of striped effects in two and three
coiors will be nreendiETAOINNN