New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1901-09-14
SILKS, PLAIN AND FANCY.
MANY BEAUTIFUL DESIGNS FOX IRE
COMING sEAsON-vELvET TAIL
ORED" GOWNS.

Every whose pocketbook has a reasonable
elasticity will be glad to be assured that fancy as
well plain silks will be in high favor the COM
ing season. Warp prints. blurred" effects lace
stripes cords and any other design that Is oeaut-
full and artistic to appear in every conceiya-
BILE article of dress
Velvet is to retain and increase the popularity II
acquired last winter, and velveteen Will De worn
for tailored gowns Black is the preferred color In
these fabrics Corded and fancy velvets as We'll
will be popular, but demand discretion in the mode
of their employment.
The continued vogue of the walking skirt is set
tied. Paris has adopted it, and of the most
famous of Partisan couturiers is making tailored
gowns that barely touch the floor. and In some
cases distinctly clear the ground that they do
not need to be held up in rainy weather. Many Oh
these tailor mades' of a material with
a rough and hairy surface. and fully as many are
of veveteen corduroy For these brown, green
and gray, with white stitching, greatly favored.
The shaped founce still holds place in fashion
able esteem, but among the newer modes for skirts
are the slash and the kilt. In the former the skirt
Is slashed to depth of nine inches, at regular IN
tervals, and the slashings filled with pleats In the
latter the skirt is laid in inch wide pleats pressed
or stitched on the edge nearly to the knee. from
which point it falls full and loose. The pleats
usually stop the front width which Is extreme
ly narrow. In most of the skirts, however made
the back has a decided fitness, laid either in
peats or scant gathers
Most of the new corsages made with short
basques, which in some fitted to the
hips by tiny tucks gathers The pouched front
waists, with decided dip, still popular and
the Louis Nv, with turned cuffs. large peck
cts and handsome buttons bids fair to be favorite
style for autumn and winter. Tine bolero Is by no
means abandoned. however. and 1t is said that
velvet bolerOs will be in evidence.
Sleeves have changed little fashion. being fitted
closely to the arm far the elbow. then wild
ening TO the wrist, TO show fancy puffed sleeve
In tailored gowns the style preferred is plain
coat sleeve, haring into slight bell, although the
small bishop gathered into cuff will be often
The tailor made costume. it is said. is to be
reserved for morning wear by fashionable women.
and silk. velvet velveteen gowns will be de
rigueur at all afternoon functions From these and
handsome cloth suits. collars and cuffs
of Venetian and Irish lace will be used. and heavy
lace will be applied the fine cloths well as
on silk. 1t will be used in panel form also. and
at the foot OF the skirt.
The long coat with tight back and box front
this will have wide sleeves, reaching half way
the feet in cases. and picturesque
hood. falling well the shoulders and fastened
in front by a handsome clasp The short coat,
however. Is of the running. some OF
the leading French dressmakers are showing hand
some little coats with vests of brocade and full
jabots of lace. Another style has loose front on
yoke. and tight back with pleated tails. stun
ming coat for reception wear is Louis Nv OF
deep wine tinted velvet. with collar, cuffs and
pocket flaps embroidered in lighter shade.
The extremely low corset is declared to he alb
solutely out of date among well dressed women. "A
medium cut being preferred. The straight front
however, is popular