The Washington times., 1901-11-03
THE UNSETTLED PROBLEM.
Women still Debating the Amount of
Money Required for Dress.

women in the large Eastern ard North
ern cities have furnished their opinions
to the press, and even men are contribut-
ing letters to the editor for the purpose
of proclaiming their views. And with it
all the question is as unsettled rs ever.
can or cannot n woman dress on $500
year?
a writer in the New York Sun" says:
Dressing on 500 n year is quite as sim
pie proposition as the question which
caused such comment some time ago as
to whether n couple could live on $50
week. A woman who has only $500 n
year to spend for her dressing Will, If
she is clever and economical, and espe-
cially If she has any skill with her needle,
manage to make a neat and well chosen
toilet for all occasions and keep within
the limit of her income
She will never approach any smartness
of attire, however. In a gathering of we'll
dressed women she would look out OF
place. The plans for making a fine ap-
pearance on 500 a year will result in
about the same degree of success as an
imitation as the flour barrel which the
careful housewife transforms into beau
tiful Turkish chair. In other words. while
1t has some dignity as a flour barrel. it
becomes ridiculous as a Turkish chair.
For woman who goes out and keeps
up with any social round, even if it be
simple one, the allowance of 1900 year
for dress would be absurdly inadequate. y
fashionable society woman spends more
than $500 each for her gowns. and the
yearly bills for her costumes and milln-
cry, furs, ana laces would seem appalling
to most people. Tine accounts at the fash
ionable shops are the best proof Of what
ii costs women to dress. and these aC-
counts do not include the frocks and
other things bought during the yearly trip
abroad
But take an average woman with the
usual wardrobe, that is to say, good
supply of hats, gowns, boots, lingerie,
and small belongings and confront her
with the problem o. keeping that ward
robe replenished with the sum mentioned.
She can easily figure out how impossible
it will be for her to do so and at the same
time keep the appearance Of smartness
and freshness necessary to an appearance
at social functions. She can, it is true,
buy three or even four gowns in a year,
but gowns are really only small part OF
a woman's dress. Far better an old gown
unless the new one can be accompanied
and set off by all the accessories that go
to complete a costume
LAS to the buying of good materials
and making over an evening gown for
five seasons, which is alleged to be part
of the system of dressing on $500 a year,
a woman cannot wear an evening gown
that has been made over with any sue
cess 1t. Of all gowns, must be fresh
spruce, new. and up to date. At home a
woman may Wea- remodeled evening
gown, freshened with lace or even re-
trimmed, but a woman who makes a
practice of appearing at dinners. dances,
or receptions in rnade-over gowns would
speedily acquire a name for bad dressing.
Take last season, for instance Bird
toques came with the early autumn, then
the tilted hower-trimmed hat obtained an
immense popularity. unbecoming and un-
suitable as ii was except for carriage
wear. After this came the fiat, pancake
effect; then the flower hats. and then the
Gainsborough. And these We're not the |
hats OF year but the hats of season.
A woman who has to dress on small |
income Is always confronted with
choice between buying new gowns of less |
expensive material end wearing out the !
old gowns, and keeping her costume fresh |
with a good hat and irreproachable boots !
and gloves. But women get to hate these |
froeks so excellent IN quality that they |
never Will wear out. The sleeves get old
fashioned in season, and may be re
modelled. but tailored work does not lend |
itself gracefully to these alterations
ITO estimate in figures what a woman
can do who. with an ordinarily we'll |
stocked wardrobe. starts 10 keep it UP on |
$500 year is not difficult. She reaches a
certain point and then she goes in debt or
borrows OF presents the sad spectacle of a
woman who Is aping correct dress but
missing its essential points. Certainly she
will require one good tailor gown for
church and for visiting. Her last years
gown may still be good and she can rest
her newer frock by substituting the sec
ond best for shopping and for wear in
weather which may threaten.
For marketing, for travelling. and for !
rainy days she may wear the still older
gowns that may yet remain in good con-
dition. That is, she may do this il she Is
The well-dressed woman
has her gowns for travelling and for rainy
day wear made for her by her tailor, and
will not think of these makeshifts in the
way of dressing. But we are now discuss
ing the woman with $500 a year.
For the absolutely Indispensable new
tailor gown she viii pay $l00 1t is useless
made old gown is preferable to that OF a
cheap maker. Now It is quite possible in
these days of pretty bodices for woman
to dine in tailor gown. But il Is not de-
women with limited time and income But
every woman should dress for dinner. No
how simple the toilet II should be
A special one.
For the dinner gown the woman Of
manages to utilize summer
dresses, foulards. and even muslins. Young
dresses for dinners at home a. through !
tbs winter With a sash ribbon and i
pretty arrangement of the hair this is
certainly pretty toilet suitable for
young girl.
Then there are innumerablc dinner
bodices and separate skirts but for spe-
cial dinners a woman would feel decidedly |
shabby in these made-up costumes. and |
most women would prefer to remain at
home. Suitable enough for entertaining !
at home or for small functions. they be
come impossible when placed beside the
newer gowns Of other women with more |
than three hundred a year to spcnd |
Therefore for woman who expects to
dine out n dinner gown is a necessity
"A good dinner dress win cost 800 al
though ii may be made up for less. Some
times an economical buyer will have two |
bcdices made, one with low corsage for
evening wear ut.partieG or dances and an
other with long sleeves and high neck |
for receptions ir the afternoon; this gown
must serve for theatre wear as VOL; al !
with the older dresses of the
wardrobe.
Now 800 Of the $500 has vanished at
the beginning OF the winter. Every woman
knows that for summer year innumerable
gowns are necessary If she leaves town |
for a seashore hotel or cottage. But as
suming that she huries herself in some !
mountain farmhouse she stil must re-
plenish the summer wardrobe There are
little summer gowns that may be made |
uD at home by clever fingers, but they |
cost something. Then there are the cot
ton shirts that are part of every woman :
wardrobe nowadays
IF she replenisheS the stock even 50
slightly she must have one wash gown
and one cotton waist. And this by the
way, dooms her to wear Old-fashiuucd |
shirt waists all summer for the cut OF
these garments changes with the seasons. |
the shoulders. sleeves ana yokeS take on
new lines. But making a low estimate We
will say these two items cost her with |
collars, ties. belts. the sum of $25. This
disposes of her gowns for the entire year
Ii gives her no new spring costume.