The daily morning journal and courier., 1901-04-27
TO SCOTLAND AND BACK
CONTIN INUATION OF STORY OF TRIP
 BY JOHN JAPP.
Impressions of Glasgow and Other Parts of Scotland Wrecked on the Clyde Beck to New Haven.

of Scotland -NyrecIeed on the Clyde
 Beck to New Haven.
 PART II.
 The "Furnessia" arrived in Glasgow
 on the morning of October 11th, having
 been ten and a half days at sea. The
 work of disembarking began with the arrival of the customs officers. We ex- perienced no trouble from them, as very
 little of the red-tape system of the
 States prevails in Glasgow. Once clear of the customs, all was plain sailing. I
 was once more in scenes of my youth.
 The familiar foggy musty aroma which
 is peculiar to the Clyde seemed on this morning to be foggier and hustler than ever. There was a drizzling rain fall ing and the granite paved streets were sloppy and water-iogged. The houses along the river front seemed blacker
 than ever before and the water of the Clyde a deeper, darker, dirtier brown. People were hurrying to shop, store and office, hustling and bustling and elbow ing each other quite as eagerly as their American contemporaries. Despite the murkiness of Glasgow weather I re- marked a freshness and healthyl vigor in the faces of the passing crowd you would look in vain for in an American city of the same dimensions This as l was walking up the street to the sta- ton, whence I was going to my north ern home. There was remarkably little change in the center of the city. The same outstanding features struck me as when I first saw the city twenty odd years ago. The clean well kept streets, the air of sterling solidity of the buildings, the hustle" pervadlng all ranks and conditions of workers and the we'll groomed appearance of the av- craze business man. The streets are all granite blocked and are kept scrupu- 1ously clean, with the exception of Bu- chanan street. which is paved with wood blocks and cared for as becomes the principal business street of the city. The buildings are much the same now as then. If one building has been taken down another has taken its place, and the effect is practically the same To be minute, however I noticed several decided Improvements in office and warehouse buildings And this the more particularly, as the stones of which they were built were compara- lively clean For you have to see the smoke begrimmed houses of Glasgow to realize the terrible effect of the atmos- phere on some kinds, of stone. White sand stone gets black in a very short time, while polished granite resists ef- Actively all the stress of wind and weather, of fog and smoke. always had a kindly liking for the great com merciai mistress of the north and walk ing along her principal streets now, this feeling was intensified. And yet not unmixed. Along with the rush of memories came a strange numbness of feeling, as if I had no right now to re- gard her with feelings of kindness. I felt like an alien, and the feeling was not pleasant. I tried to throw 1t off, but still it persisted in lingering. I hurried to the station and took my seat in the train for the north travelled North British by way of Forth and Tay Bridges through Dundee and so by the coast to my native town, Montrose. One word in passing on those two won derful feats of engineering the bridges just mentioned The Forth Bridge is acknowledged by competent authorities to be the greatest engineering feat of all time It's massive proportions stand out boldly against a background of blue sky and ocean, While it's grace and symmetry make it a thing of beau- ty and a joy to all observers It Is one of the sights of Scotland. The Fay Bridge. the second of the name, though not of the same pretensons as her sis ter of the Forth, is famous in that it is the longest bridge in the world. The first bridge, 1t will be remembered, was blown down on Christmas eve, 1879, when an entire passenger train and over one hundred lives were lost.
 Of Montrose I cannot write too much, and what I am about to set down will be all too little. It is lovely little town of fifteen thousand inhabitants. It lies low on sandy promontory, a level neck of land, washed by the trou bled waters of the German ocean. It is a favorite watering place and health resort and with its four miles of mag nificent sandy beach, its capital golf links, with two courses, and its unsur- passed facilities for boating, cycling, cricket, bowling and other sports it is email wonder if it is popular It has besides the reputation of being one of | the best kept and most sanitary towns | in Scotland. It always has an air of | spic and spanness, just whisper, per- haps, of ultra refinement It has be- sides many storied interests. Its an- | cient castle now erazed, was a frequent | residence of William the Lion, and here : in 1296 John Baliol surrendered the crown of Scotland to Edward I. Thir- ty-four years later Sir James Douglas | sailed from Montrose with the heart of [ Robert the Bruce for burial in the Holy | Land. Here in 1900 the general assem- ply met with James VI. present in per son. Here in 1715, after his cause had been lost at "Sherlffmuir," James ! the pretender James VIII.," landed from France and here again he and the Earl of Mar embarked for the continent The house in which the pre- tender lodged was that in which the greatest of the Royalist generals, the famous Marquis of Montrose, was born. But enough of historical "reminiscences; we will, if you please, skip two hundred years After spending several days in visiting old friends and old places, l returned to Glasgow to take up the bus hess end of the thread. It will be suf- f1cient to say here that after hard of three months against ad- verse circumstances, the business turned out badly, and I resolved to re-
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