The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1901-09-22

10 make them very becoming to the ma
jority of women. Small brocades are
very well. but if fashion designers insist
or fotsting upon the public the giant fig
ures which I have seen in some of my
rambles the pompadour TAD will not long
survive
For example, take a house dress de-
sigred or the Rue de la Paix. 1t would
rot be fair to tell under whose roof 1
saw 1t since what 1 say of il is not COM
pIimentary. The material was Powered
fouIard, with a ground OF white sprayed
all over with clusters of roses of nat
EraI size 1t had a yoke and collar OF
guipure over rose coIored silk, and sleeves
OF the same material rounding out
below the elbows and finished with wide,
open, faring cuffs. Just below the yoke
bands of Jewcled embroidery held down
the double box plaits at both sides of
the front. In In2 back double plaits OF
the vatican kind fell directly from the
shoulders To the fOCr. forming a very tull
train.
Personally, I should much prefe- the
house dress of soft white wooden stuff
made with a simple skirt and rather full
fIont,' over which a bolero of cluny Is
held in place by bows of black velvet
One is never more impressed by the
magnificent carriage of Nine. Jane Ha-
ding tkan when she appears IN one of
the beautiful long NANTES which she is
fond Of wearing. The other evening she
was seen ct a function wearing her most
becoming wrar-a long affair of black
panne with wide sleeves trimmed with
jet paillettes-
am told that we may yet go to the
japanese for fashion hints We have
taken one from them row in making a
new coat. The kimono wrap is certainly
r. hoi- al
adopted. To describe it, let me say that
# resembles in shape the we'll known
kimono X is made of cloth and trimmed
with velvet or silk The sleeves fit well
on the forearm, but flare greatly at the
wrist. where a wide cuff further adds
to its ecdveness. I have seen
kimono theater wrap made of pompa-
dour brocade and handsomely trimmed
with light fur. 1t is intended for late fall
wear.
The use of medallions in trimming re-
mains undated. They are often very
pretty and may be noted in the photo
graphed evening gown which accompanies
this article. The medallions in the case
are lozenge shaped and of black chan
tilly over linen.
With interest in Japanese garments
aroused. comes a revival of all things
Oriental Oriental jewelry is a la mode.
The old Egyptian scarabaeus, cOnven-
tionalized arrangements of the lotus and
iris, the heads of ugly little gods are to
be seen on brooches and bracelets Keep
ing pace with this is a demand for ORR
entail perfume. famous English peer
ess who is married to an Indian prince
is said TO have set the fashion for East
ern perfumes. Altar of roses of the most
exquisite quality is used by few great
danes, who are said to import it directly
from the East.
Velvet gowns worn internationally last
season, are to have a greater vogue this
winter. and corduroy costumes. so warm
and durable, will be only second to the
velvet in popularity Velveteen and vel
vet gowns are considered ultra smart
for afternoon street wear and may or
may not be trimmed. Some of the most
tasteful costumers make them with no
decorations but stitching and self-trim-
ming. The new velvets are carefully
prepared with the object of enabling
them to stand weather and much usage
ana. l am told. are far superior in wear
ing qualities to the ordinary velvets of
the past
Although gowns of on4 material are
preferable, the separate blouse and skirt
will still be worn. The combination is
too useful TO be allowed to disappear
utterly. I have been much struck with
the simplicity of the new bIouses We
have been accustomed TO seeing thom d
trifie overturned. All that. 1 am as
sured, is of the past. EIe once which
gives the effect of simplicity is what is
now allowed.
Yesterday I looked over some tneater
blouses and helped select three for a
friend The first chosen was of plated
chiffon and guipure lace Chiffon formed
the square blouse and threC-quarters of
the length of each sleeve. The lower
part of the waist was of lace. band
hon hal, .51y5
the piece of deep insertion that formed
the dividing line between lace and chif-
fon and also formed straps across the
shoulders The girdle was or ribbon
bows of which smartened each side of
the yoke.
The second waist was of a delicate
shade of lettuce green The material
was of fine, soft silk, combined with
white Valenciennes lace. Bands of in
seruon were united to form the woke.
which spread out in shield shape on the
bust, where a band of white lace tnser-
tion formed three narrow points The
lower part of the blouse consisted of al
ternate double pIaits of silk and bands
of lace The sleeves Were laid In triple
plafts from shoulder to elbow. where
they united with bouffant undersleeve
built up of lace insertions.
The-third waist was of combined heavy
white silk. pale blue ribbon bands and
a
neatly tucked and finished with a collar
OF ribbon and chiffon. The white silk
forming sleeves, ceinture and the blouse
proper was laid in narrow stitched tlIcks
AT the wrists and waist line the bodice
was accorded a generous flare Ribbons
assembled TO the shoulders from the waist
and were decorated with diagonal SQUARES
of white lace. The yoke was frame in
more ribbons, ornamented with lace
squares, the corner having small fancy
rCSettes to set them off.
Some sort of tie must accompany the
less magnificent blouSeS, although it be
only the bow in which the black ribbon
velvet which laces the front of the cor
sage IS tied. Such an effect 1 noticed on
q waist of white albatrOSS covered with
stitched tuckS laid very closely together
and having no eIabora ton beyond an odd
lace. -
The. cravat tie goes with the fancy silk
or velvet stock as a matter of course
i ne stock may be plain tucked or Gov
cred with lace, but the crayat of lace
SIX, tale or chiffon must be in evidences
elasped IN front with a gold ring Sew
eraI steeks are usually needed to outwear
q waist ana these ought to be ordered
from the dresSmaker with the blouse one
woman OF my acquaintance required for
silk and lace blouse one stock and
crav2t of silk and lace; a second of Vel
vet, lace COVERED, and third entirely of
silk. These were of the colors used in
the waist, and. worn alternately they
rCbbed the garment of that sameness
winch is the bette noire of the well dress
cd woman
The lOng-tailed coats which we are
sure to have with the autumn tailor
frock are made with such discretion thai
trey VIII be better liked than when an
eEort was first made to introduce them
ne advance fall blouses are fashioned
1 TLth an addition below the belt line.