Middlebury register. (Middlebury, Vt.) 1886-1937, 1901-05-17


the one thing for almost universal use
In this line will be the short jacket.
The style will be the one in the Illus
tration. To cut it one needs but the
ordinary waist pattern for jacket.
The back, 1t will be noticed, has the
side shoulder pieces much higher than
usual. There are eight pieces, two
fronts, two side body pieces, two Shout
der side pieces and the two center
backs. Fig 1 shows the front and
Fig. the back. The front is double
breasted, and the bottom Is shaped to
conform to the latest figure, with
straight front. There are many jack
cts with single breasted effect, and to
make such it is only necessary to cut
the fronts off at the line which marks
the middle OF the double breast. In
this case the revers should be some
what smaller and set three inches low
er down. That brings it right. But
tons and buttonhOles take the place OF
the invisible fastening SO long in
vogue.
To get the measure it Is necessary
shoulder at the neck down to the de-
sired length below the belt. In case
.the wearer is very stout the front
should be rather longer than it would
be otherwise. 1t can be cut to form a
deep tab, if so desired, by rounding the
front down from the side form or dart.
But the straight one will be rather the
better form.
After the first line is made, meas
ure from the slope Sf the shoulder
down to the hips, always allowing
two inches for take up" in the sew
ing and trimming off of the edges.
| The object now is to have the Shout
ders very square, and to this end it is
necessary to have a piece of buckram
with n layer or two of cotton batting
basted to 1t and sewed in with the
sleeves. All that part of the front be-
tween the buttons is stiffened with
buckram, just such as tailors use in
mems coats. a narrow bias piece Of
the same is basted all around the bot
tom of the jacket, allowing it so that
when the hem is turned it will not
double. The back pieces are cut on the
same lines as any tight waist, only let
ting the shoulder pieces be raised by
cutting off an inch of the top, if the
pattern is narrow one. That brings
it right.
When the material is cravenette
covert, it is not necessary to sponge or
'busher' the material, as that is al
ways done with those goods.
The fronts require the most careful
treatment. When the fronts are cut
out, they are of the same size, though
they do not look so in double breast
ed Jacket One side comes under as far
as the other goes over. 1t is the same
way with the single breasted one. SO
when the fronts are cut the revers may
| be cut with the rest, but in others the
revers are made separate and sewed
on. In any case n piece of the stuff is
cut from each side for facing, and this
is first lined with buckram and then
stitched over and over 10 make ii as
though one with the lining facing
This buckram must reach from the top
of the revers and the collar and on
down to the bottom and be as wide as
the facing, and that must go as far
back as the buttons, whether single or
double breasted. When the buckram IL
firmly quilted to the facing, the lining
to the jacket is made ready and stitch
ed to it down the front. The lining is
to be doubled and stitched so that II
hides the raw edge of the cloth. When
this is done, the facing is basted with
care to the outside and stitched firmly.
Some tailors stitch this three times to
get the solidity. When this is done, il
is ready to sew together, and back and
front are basted and tried and finally
sewed together. The lining is in the
fronts, and the lining for the back is
cut by the same pattern as the outside
run up on the machine This is then
basted to the center seams in the back
then, after turning it farther to the
side backs.
The shoulder seams are now put to-
gether and pressed, and the front lin
ing Is basted down to the underarm
seams, and the back lining is brought
over and neatly hemmed down. The
shoulders the same. When all this Is
done, the buckram for the bottom OF
the jacket is TO be firmly basted along
the bottom so that 1t will be just the
right distance from the edge to allow
for the hem, or, to speak more correct
| w. the facing OLIVE HARPFR