Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1901-12-07
FOR THE MASCULINE FANCY
SOME THINGS TO BE IN VOGUE THIS
SEASON.
The Law of Time, Place and Fitness OF
a Garment Worn is often
Disregarded.
From the Haberda Sher.


Fashions are not what we make them so
much as we are what fashions make us.
Tradesmen cannot force any particular
form or color but fashion does force on
the allied trades that clothe man both
forms and colors. / have often observed
something unpopular at its introduction
gradually grow in favor, no matter what
drawbacks it possessed, until 1t reached
that stage of over-popularity and went into
the common class of ordinary things A
great many introductions are made unln-
diligently. Men adopt for ordinary wear
garments designed for specific purpose
and We find the coat designed for driving
worn over evening clothes, and the coat de-
signed for lounging about ones house Worn
at a dance. The misuse of the paddock
and the raglan coats and the evening
Jacket are clearly examples of what VIII
term for want of better definition, Amer
icanisms in dress. One should be careful
in recommending any article of dress TO
use common sense and not to make some
thing designed for one purpose serve a
purpose that it was never intended for. The
most fragrant breaches of good taste are
ofttimes due to the bad advice given by
haberdashers and tailors, although We must
confess that the greatest number OF the pc
culiaritieS we see in dress are evidences OF
the misguided ideas of the individuals who
irrespective of their suitability. Spats,
which were quite necessary on dusty race
tracks and wet fields were never intended
for wear on a bright sunny day in town,
or We're the long loose raglan" and pad
dock types of coats designed for wear
over business suits or evening dress When
one is driving loose long coats are neces-
Sary. A man cannot exercise full control
over a horse if he be dressed in tight-fitting
garments. Clothes should suit the occasion
and one should never lose sight of the eter-
nal fitness of things The young men who
insist on wearing rain coats and driving
coats over evening dress, and hunting
stocks in town, and who persist in wearing
a jacket designed for house wear at dance
are simply following their own standards
of dress and do not know any more about
the fitness of dress and it's adaptability to
the various occasions of a sporting or
cial nature than they do about other sub
jects no less important to the man who de-
sires to make a good impression under all
circumstances.
The Newest Hats.
There are a number of new things in hats
this season worthy of note. In the silk
hats the felt band is again popular. And,
by the way, there are more silk hats worn
than ever The American gentleman is fond
of the frocks and getaways With these
the high hat must be worn. In derbies
there are some new forms. One has a fiat
narrow brim and medium height crown,
another shows a well curled brim with a
high taper crown. The latter has eyelets
and a guard.
For wear with the dinner jacket the black
alpine is still good. These should be lined
with black silk and the under side of the
brim should be faced with corded silk. A
new opera hat that l saw recently had
strip of black silk sewn to the lining. This
slip is for holding the gloves. The latter
are folded and then passed under the slip.
This is a very handy device, as it gives
= h. RI xx1a,, H. ,s
is to be checked put under the seat at
the theater or handed to a servant when
calling.
The newest ties for evening wear are
made of fine corded lawn, and are rather
wide They tie up with small center and
have square or blunt ends. The same form
of tie is made in black peau de sole or
barathea for wear with the dinner jacket.
An evening shirt that is quite proper has
and cuffs Of linen. These bosoms do not
shine and 1 think they are all right for
one who cannot get good laundry work.
The plain linen bosom, however, is best,
and If laundered without luster is beyond
reproach
There are many new types of wing col
lars and some of them, l think, are too
large. The wing collar must, like every
other collar. suit the wearer. If they are
very high the wings are naturally large,
but very large wings do not look We'll II
the wearer has a small face. The newest
collar shows large wing and generous
front space. These have two rows of stitch
ing, with small line of stitching running
from the outer cline to the points of the
wings. Pokes are very good, and / think
much better for formal day wear than any
other style. For evening dress the quar-
ter lap or just meeting straight standing
collar is the best form. The wings and the
fold collars are good for ordinary day
dress, one being just as correct as the
other. Wide stitching is now the rule rath-
er than the exception in both collars and
cuffs.
Cravats, Gloves and Socks.
In smart cravatings I have seen nothing
but the neatest effects. and these are In the
bottle green, black and blue grounds, as
we'll as in dark reds, and, of course, the
lighter tone grounds for formal wear. Very
large imperials tied in big knot and with
Widespread aprons and the once-over ascot
are the most correct for day dress This
and four-in-hands with fringed ends are
among the most recent introductions Of a
smart uptown haberdasher.