New-York tribune., 1901-11-17
PARIS EVENING GOWNS.
WHEN OF LACE AND EMBROIDERY
THEY ARE MOST EFFECTIVE-PUCE
BROWN TAFFETA THE RAGE"
Paris, November 9.

Paris November g.
This is g season Of surprising little fantasies
that follow one another with Kaleidoscope swift
ness. novelty is sooner the mode than it is
denode. and one feels little confidence that its
successor will be longer IN favor. Long, loose
coaks have not only been the fashion but the rage
all the autumn. and now some Of the tailors pro-
claim them quite out OF date To be sure, an
other tailor. perhaps equally reliable, will pro-
nounce the long coat the proper thing and insist
that ali the world is still wearing It. But the fact
remains that the tide has turned, and that the
fashion has its detractors-
In .ts place is some other little FAD. as. for ex
enple. the fancifui gowns Of puce" brown taffetas
which for the moment attracting so much at
tention. Fashion goes back good many years
for the origin fancy; the time when Marie
Antoinette was fair haired dauphiness of France
She made II tthe rage then. but In later years
.hls pe-1,l,ariy dull shade OF brown has not been
popular. But 1t has been revived, with other
modes OF the Louis XVI period, and several we'll
known dressmakers laying great stress on it.
a pretty little gown certainly is one which, while
II bears the cachet Of prominent gownmaker OF
the Rue Ia Paix has all the characteristics of
that period The material is tsfeta In puce brown.
xnd the skirt is shirred all about the hips and cut
short enough TO just clear the ground. 1t is really
decidedly bouffante. The bodice shows no seam
except In the back the sidepieces being draped and
carried up under the fchu bow the bust The
appearance Of the long, fitted front is obtained by
open waistcoat Of pink velvet trimmed with
etrSSS BUTTONS. the WalStCOat opening over the
slightest suggestion of 8 full front OF pink
seline de cole. The gown is cut with slight
decolletage arranged by means Of dchu Of pink
mousseline de sole and yellow lace. The sleeve
finishes above the elbow and up with a faring
cuff lined with pink velvet and ornamented with
Strass buttons while lace ruffie falls over the
BEAD EMBRoiDERIES
Bead embroideries in various colors. mixed with
paillettes and patterns coarsely outlined with wool
the whole done net sometimes thinner
gauze. another striking feature OF present
modes. A dinner gown which embroidery Of
this sort in gold and various shades Of green ap
pears, carried a black net and mounted over
pale green silk, is excellent example of what
may be done in this line The gown is arranged on
princess foundation the lines in the back closely
following the figure In front the drapery starts
from under a gold buckle on the shoulder and is
carried TO the other side, where II is held by line
OF gold ivory leaves. which trail down onto the
skirt The sleeves free from the shoulder band,
but make q puff Of the embroidered net over the
elbows.
II is perhaps hardly Just dismiss the question
OF outdoor wraps without commenting on the prob
able successor Of the long half fitted coat The
garment now In vogue dt will be difficult to say
whether II viii become universally popular)
is the loose short sack that was referred TO
several weeks ago. This is cut off just below the
hips. and flares out in decided folds, which are
generally longer behind than IN front. giving a
decided prominence to the Hnlng- yridlieltdtoii
consists OF deep and elaborate collars and GUNS
absurdly large for the sleeves reach 10 an extraVa-
CANT size below the elbows.
The fashion of puffed undersleeves, which came
n rnodestly a couple years ago is evidently re-
sponsihle for an unexpected evolution in sleeves IL
has been many since sleeves We're large any
where except the top that ii seems nara TO take
this fashion seriously; yet It must be admitted that
Sleeves are growing extraordinary size about
the wrist. The fashion is at present too apparent
10 require much emphasis but 1t is evidently here
to remain and is to be classed among the mere
lads OF the season
NEW IDEAS IN SLEEVES.
The season may end by showing us sleeves con-
spicuous not only in their size. but through the
.act that they are made of different material from
she bodice Several cloth gowns for the interior
have been made recently with huge complicated
sleeves Of rnousseltne de sole. Sleeves Of white
lace on black and coored evening gowns are consio
cred chic A gown of black mousseline de sole. ac-
Gordon pleated is trimmed with q heaVy patIeiti
OF green and blue paillettes and Jet BEADS WhiGn.
on the skirt hangs over a deep hounce OF white
lace. The decolletage is finished with the saiiis
.rin.Eiag which hangs over iohg Of eold
ribbon The belt consists Of girdle OF goo flppit,
embroidered with blue. green and piaek; nsfe hebinS
on the sides into three parts anu cioSiiis ~
1noer enormous buckle x, sroo,, fo-
A Charming high necked gown. useful frock 10.
embroidered in white worsed thread and paie green
and light blue beads over white fou9aauoh, tas ts
white gauze The embroidery without lining MAKES
a yoke. the trimming falling down on the IRON. a.
of the gown and covering half the skirt wnlch Is
completed by an fiuftiness OF black ana
white pleatngs , -
i pretty little affair Is made entirely OF black
nfoGsseline de sole arranged in g. muii.uoe oI Iu.
The whole sKrs s es rues With velvet border
which grow slightly deeper toward the hem- ihe