The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1901-10-13

helm" Victoria and 'Luisenzelt," are
the ones that strengthen the belief in
their ancient lineage. The three dilap-
dated, patched-up and partly renovated
old buildings are huddled up closely to-
gether, as if in need of one anothef,s
support. Before each there is a gravel
ed yard that during the day, is crowd
ed with tables and chairs, and a night,
with as many or more guests, who, were
it not for the iron fence that separates
them from the street would overflow the
premises and cover the whole Thiergar-
ten. 1t is remarkable that persons will
be content to sit here upon one spot
SUR ounded by a boisterous crowd in
dense clouds of tobacco smoke and dust
and pay money for it, while they would
scorn the thought Of sitting in as close
quarters in their own homes, with
better fare and at little or no cost.
The most amusing feature, though Of
these old places is the rivalry and par
ticularly the musical rivalry, that exists
between them Like three old gruff mu-
sicians they stand and frown and growl
at one another. Each place maintains
band. Each band is selected for it's
especial ability to make a great noise
and uproar Each band does its best
to outclamor it's neighbor. One would
think to hear them all playing away
at the same time, that some long-stand-
ing grudge Chat of the foundress and
founder pernaps) was being wiped out.
On approaching the scene through me
Thiergarten, on a dark evening, when
the places can be heard long before be-
ing seen, the effect is indeed quite awe
inspiring. One stands and listens and
wonders what it can be. That fearful
blast of trumpets; that ear-piercing
Shrek of clarinets; that untimelX
humping of drums; that labored puff
ing of the tuba. 1t is not Mozart nor
Beethoven, nor Wagner, and yet, here
and there, one believes he recognizes &
passage from these masters. lie pessi-
mstic critic might call it a tone paint
ing by a modern Wagner fanatic. On
reaching the scene the mystery is i'm
mediately cleared up by finding all four
bands playing away at once. The first
is saving off the overture to Tam
hauser; the second is humping out Bee
thovens Turkish march; the third is
giving a most mournful imitation of
MoZart's "Larghetto; while the fourth
is blowing the latest hit "Wir sind die
Sanger Won Finsterwalde, almost to
shreds. The gardens are packed TO
suffocation, and the walks on both sides
of the street are lined with hearers, who
applaud heartily at the close of eacn
singular potpourri, Whine the bandmas-
tiers bow their thanks and slyly laugh up
their sleeves at their remarkable sue
cess 1t is doubtful if any one of these
places could exist without the other;
and it is more than likely that after
the concert the four leaders could pe
found together, with their pots of beer
before them, arranging the programmes
for the morrow in the most discordant
and unharmonious way, and having an
other good laugh at the expense of their
audience.
Leaving the city gardens that are all
of more or less the same type, one may
take his way in any direction and soon
find places where the wild woods, ripping
runs, running rivers and fragrant How
ers give him nature in her full beauty
and power. Here are "Das Eierhaeus-
chen" 'Tabbert's %aldschloesschen,
"Muggelschloss' and "Gruenau," of old
renown The leading place, however, is
the "Abtei" 1t is picturesquely situated
on the island in the Spree, and takes its
name from the decayed ruin of an Old
cloister that occupies the center OF the
island and contrasts strangely with the
up to-date restaurants around It Late
corners will not secure places here, and
hundreds are turned away every even
ing Pretty little electric yachts carry
the guests to the island, and the boats
from the city stop at the opposite shore.
An air of plenty and extravaganza pre-
walls here, and the extensive grass plots
and flower beds weave privacy and
secrecy about each snowy covered table.
No band annoys one here; a dignitled
silence reigns, and, excepting the clink
of glasses, or the subdued outbreak of
an animated guest, not a sound is heard.
Occasionally a homeward bound steamer
sends a stray note or two from it's little
discordant band, but the distance lends
enchantment even to this. The hand
somely engraved menu card includes all
the delicacies of the season, besides the
standards, as "Wienerschnitzel, ''Ho-
henzollerntopf' 'Leipziger Allerlei' and
"Hoppel- Poppel" On certain days special
dishes. such as ''fricassee of chicken,
"calfs feet" or ''erbsen und sauer-
kraut" are announced on dainty little no
tees in conspicuous places. The wine list
contains everything; the Moselles, Rhines
and clarets; the heavy Spanish ports and
sherries; the sweet Italians; the cham
pagnes, Mumn1, Piper Heidsieck, Cliquot
and Kupferberg Piper Heidsieck, Cliquot
and Kupferberg Gold. The sleek walters
hustle about taking orders with their
ever ready "Bitte schoen,'' ''Jawohl,''
"Scfort'' and WAS befiehlt der Herr
on their tongues Or they come laden
with dishes and wine coolers, admonish-
ing every one to clear the way with their
"Vorsehen, :" "Achtung." When it grows
quite dark, dainty candlesticks, with
pretty red shades on them, are placed
on the tables to shed a quiet light below,
and spread gentle glow above All sorts
of light craft glide noiselessly by on the
water and their tiny lights twinkle faint
ly on rippled surface.
Gradually it grows pitchy dark The
moon. rises, deep red on the horizon, like
an immense ball of fire. AS it climbs
slowly, quietly, it loses it's fiery glow
and over it's silvery trail on the water
it sends a peaceful light to the island