The Butte inter mountain. [volume] (Butte, Mont.) 1901-1912, 1901-10-26


tons of the season is the new
league formed by number Of
~ smart women for the purpose of
introducing and making fash
ionable the authentic empire gown. says
the Paris fashion letter.
The latter has been steadily growing
in fashionable favor, but the league will
doubtless give it a boom which will re-
suit in completely changing the aspect
of feminine attire. and we may yet see
an afternoon tea with all the women
present in empire gowns. or soiree
where one would imagine oneself at The
Tuileres if the gowns We're taken into
considerat ton.
Strange as it may seem. this harmless
vagary of feminine fancy is worrying the
politicians in France, always in fear OF
the Little Corporal phantom. and they
see in it the revival of Imperialism to
such an extent that one would imagine
they expected to find an emperor con-
cealed IN the new empire garments.
However successful the new league
may be with its propaganda. the fact re-
mains that the small wasp-like waist
is a ttin" of the past. Gone, also. are
the days when the short waist and sep
arate skirt Were most in favor. All OF
the new gowns will be either empire or
princess in form. or with tendencies in
dining toward both. OF the two the
princess model is the most in favor, at
least at present.
White will be the smart color for trinl-
ming, and great deal of white cara
cal. ermlne, and panne or velvet will be
used, While white hats of soft, woolly
felt will be much in vogue, trimmed
with white plumes, white velvet flowers.
and birds. The most striking feature of
this use of white in trimming is that it
is most in evidence on dark cloths or
coats. Long cloaks of rich navy blue
cloth have white fur collars genre
eighteenth century, the fur touched off
with gold galloon or braid.
The favorite style of trimming the en-
p1re gown is to ornament it with bands
of fur, which run around the shaped
f1ounce and counterfeit the scant effect
which the 5enuine empire costume all
ways gives. The long empire cloaks worn
with such gowns are hemmed with fur
and have wide collars and cuffs Of the
same.
Outside pockets have come greatly into
vogue, the natural result of the Louis
XVI, and Louis XIV, and Louis Mi. re-
vival.
What is most striking in the newest
tailor gowns is their dressy character
The new models are in no way severe nor
simple. Fortunately for the microbes the
Paris dressmakers have at length con-
scented to shorten walking skirts. This
needed reform has been almost prayed
Tor by the anti-microbe fraternity and
for short time, until tickle feminine
fancy changes, science and fashion will
be at peace. The new skirts have fat
plaits at the back and on the sides, with
revers and pattes trimmed with buttons.
The coats are pure Louis XIV, falling
with a marvellous line from the shout
der, we'll over the hip. Outside pockets
and bands of braid or fur adorn such
coats, While the vests worn with them
are unusually elaborate.
During the visit of the Russian SOW
ereisns TO France, great dressmaker
had the happy inspiration to present her
majesty, the empress, with three dolls for
her three elder little girls, each doll rep
resenting the fashionably attired Paris
ienne. The first doll represented the up
to-date' Parisienne dressed for soiree.
Her gown was of wheat-colored NOUS
seine de sole, incrusted with lace of the
same shade. Over this was a large COL
ored cloth mantle, lined with white satin,
with the lapels faced with embroidery.
A white toque of gauze, trimmed with
white feathers and brlliants, crowned
the costume.
The second doll was dressed in imita-
ton of the suitable attire worn at the
celebrated Trianon fete. The gown was
of the most exquisite Louis V. white
satin. The skirt was round and bell
shaped, with garlands of flowers festoon-
ed round the bottom and blendde with
baldachin festoons of ribbon. The puffed
panies gave the waist wasp-like in pro-
portions, a graceful effect. The corsage
was trimmed with strings Of flowers held
in place by tiny velvet bows, and be-
meath them tiny apron of exquisite
real lace. The sleeves We're fiat and end
ed in jabots and flowers of real Mechlin
lace. Growing this dainty toilette was
capeline of the epoch, jauntily turned
up on the side. with the crown covered
with a garland of flowers, and the brim
painted with the same.
The third doll expressed the modern
Parisienne's taste for sport and is dress
ed in a yachting costume of white cloth
and a cape of the same, lined with white