Evening star., 1901-12-21
THE VOGUE IN MEMS WEAR
WHAT OUR ENGLISH COUSINS WILL
WEAR THIS WINTER.
Horseback Riding Has Experienced q
Upon Coming Styles.

Revival and Has Had a Bearing
Upon Coming Styles.
London Correspondents the Haberdasher.
= It is a remarkable fact that the horse
that prof1igate, expensive and dangerous
quadruped, fhe horse-has chosen precisely
this autumn of 1901. when the motor-car
craze is at Its height, to make a sudden
and successful bid for revived fashionable
ness and even popularity. so that all the
novelties in the clothing line this month
are in more or less hersey lines. 80
II I might be allowed to lay down
the law about riding overcoats I should
say that they ought to benmade of light,
hard-surfaced whipcord, material from
which raindrops will roll cheerfully If
the undercoat Is made Of such material
no overcoat is needed. ), The only possible
use Of horseback overcoat is to keep
rain off. 1t ought to be very free and easy
across the chest, tnfiicting no constraint
upon the arms. and. the skirts should be
short. but fairly full all round with an
opening almost up to the waist, but only
Of such length as to allow the sides to
fall apart on the horses back, and thus
prevent the saddle from becoming wet-a
condition fatal to both health and comfort.
Some days ago / saw one that fulfilled all
these requirements to perfection and which
was yet more convenient by reason of the
fact that it buttoned with fly at the back
opening. thus being coat useful for both
walking and riding in showery weather.
The exhibitor of this garment claimed for
it the virtue of being showerproof without
the aid of rubber in any form. These are
the utility points in riding overcoat. Let
me hasten to add that many such coats are
already being made and that they are made
now with broad lapels and plain shoulders.
~I,o !, g..
ding, as indeed are the shoulders Of every
coat at present made. which few men, ex-
cept those with very slanting shoulders, will
regret.
Riding Breeches.
Riding breeches are cut now with the In
side seam quite straight down the leg. The.
outer seams therefore, have to give all the
curve, and they are curved generously, pro-
ducing a balloon-like fullness over the
thighs. An excellent innovation is the in
PRODUCTION Of lacing at the knee in place of
the hitherto universal buttons; but do
not care for the Stohwasser 2though 1t is
the most widely advertised) pattern as the
ends have leather strips, eye-lettered and
pierced just like fsh9e pppers, and conse-
quently must be fastened with leather
laces. These with thesleathers make the
ends almost as lumpy inside the leggings.
as the old buttons. It is a much better
plan to use silk faces, and have the holes
and worked round with twist.
Whether jacket suits will come back in
the spring or not It Is extremely difficult to
predict. Up to now I have seen nobody Of
End tailors claim to be receiving orders
from clients in the country Certainly
tails" are essentially the note Of the mo-
ment, and no one wears a jacket who is
not absolutely Obliged to by the pursuits in
which he is engaged
curious innovation is spoken of here in
evening. dress. have not yet seen it. but
it is one new effort to soften the formality
of the dress suit, this time by change Of
color. The project is fora dress suit made
of exactly the same cloth as any other
dress suit. but dark gray in color. The
waist coat is to be of the same material
as the coat, a white one being rightly con-
sidered an impossible combination, and the
silk facing on the iapels Will, of course,
match the cloth. Like the cooking of the
White Knights pudding, the actual con-
struction Of this is certainly. little doubt
full; but If there is ever to be a departure
from the hard and fast rule Of evening
dress. I would certainly prefer this before
the odious evening jacket. 1t is not sug-
gested according to my information) that
this suit is to rank as strict dress. 1t is
intended to mark informal gatherings, and
the comfort Of an evening suit, and 1 imag-
inc no one will deny that full dress Is much
the most comfortable costume that a man
can wear. except pajamas, with certain
Latest in Cravats.
The adoption Of sack suit materials for
tail-coat suits has at all events done Eng
lsh society one service or hope it has.
mean that 1t has administered what looks
like death blow to the eccentric waistcoat
craze When waistcoats in all shapes and
patterns had eliminated in one fearful
double-breasted creation whose buttons be-
gan at each shoulder, met in the neighbor-
hood OF the opening and parted again out
wards $50 as to form something like an X)
1t was apparently felt that horrors could
no further go and even London rebelled.
In the matter of cravats we are certainly
time. and there is a revival of the strong
vogue possessed a few years ago by, Indian
silk always admirable for it's beautiful
colorings and excellent native designs No
artists. not even the Japanese designers Of
conventional pattern excellent as these
are), can use spots decoratively win the
same skill as the Hindus. There Is nothing
like this TuSS0re silk for wear. .s
The double coat cuff has probably come to
stay for little while -Ct must be dear
boon on a waterproof on wet day., and
its pernicious influence has evolved the
turn back shirt cuff Or perhaps both de-
rive from the doubie-upright collar. The
only recommendation can think Of for this
far from smart-looking innovation Is the
discommendable one which allies 1t to the
long finger nails OF a Chinese aristocrat
therefore. are evidences 4 leisured wealth.
Similarly any one who attempted to write
for an hour with a turn-back shirt wrist
would require to change his shirt there
after. Possibly the men who wear these
ridiculous things do not know how to write
however.
Hats and Shoes.
The newest idea in silk hats is worth
mentioning. refer to the sort Of which the
brim is entirely devoid Of shiny beaver
silk. being covered abeve with the same
material as it has Underneath IT. The IRON
ing Of the brim has always been an I'M
satisfactory matter, though on the br1m,
in front. is just where b hat needs ironing
most Also. the old style Of hat was liable
to slip unless held Very firmly by the gloyed
fingers in Gaping" lady acquaintance.
AS regards undtess hats, now that It is
too cold for Pananas to be worn any more,
the. Tyrol shape seems TO be coming in
again. with a very fow crown. however.
Greenish shades are the only correct wear.
the old pearl gray color is seen nowhere
In shoes 1t is obvious, as predicted a
couple Of months bach. that lace-up OK
fords are having a! considerable run, and al