New-York tribune., 1901-01-13
NEW ZEALAND WONDERS.
VILLAGE WHERE NATURE DOES ALL THE
MAORIs' COOKING.

A VILLAGE WHERE NATURE DOES ALL THE
MAoRIs' COOKING
From The London Post.
/ The geysers of Whakarewarewa too nu-
merous to mention individually. Several of
/ them reveal an unfailing activity which their
! Maori owners would do we'll to emulate; but
one. and that the grandest of ALL Wairoa-tall
water-needs as much coaxing prima donna,
and rarely performs under the influence of
strong stmuant Of which the integral part
is reported to be finely shredded soap.
'Wairoa is expected to play tonight" was
evening. No one knew whence the rumor had
arisen, but dinner over. obedlent to its hint all
Ing, clear and calm. Wairoa revealed no sign
Of action Close by Waikorohihi. restless lit
tie geyser, rechristened the little nuisance"
kept up display of fdgety energy but still
Wairoa. like the Tar Baby. KEEP on sayin'
nothin.'
A few minutes of expectancy passed, then
suddenly from the sinter mound encircling
the mouth of the geyser issued vast column
or boiling water. which rose perpendicularly in
the still air to a height of over hundred feet.
! III was beautiful and awe inspiring sight,
and silence fell on the group. We gazed en-
tranced. watching the pillar increase in magni-
tude and then decrease until all that remained
We're the gaping, insignificant lips of the geyscr
overflow.
In Wonderland even the initiated must walk
Warily, and the sudden action of a geyser might
cause one unwittingly to step back into any
or me deep, boiling springs close by. l saw
nttle dog, running beside his Maori master,
put foot through the thin crust OF soil and
limp off, whining piteously, with scalded paw.
Pipf our guide. told us with bated breath
how lately young girl OF their tribe fell into
seething pool and was scalded to death
Was il acCdent?" we asked gazing
fascinated into the fast bubbling liquid.
Pipis usually bright face grew grave. Il no
know she replied shaking her curly head.
She no happy She had lover" Truly a
CHASTITY way of seeking relief,
We were told that when. with great difficulty,
the girl was taken from the scaIding water she
still breathed; and it was only by using force
that the Europeans succeeded in preventing the
Maoris from carrying her down and dipping
her bodily in the cold waters of the river, thus
evincinS a savage faith in hydropathy.
THE GREAT ERUPTION.
Walking dellcatey beside reeking sulphur
Gus stream, l came on a plant whose grassy
foliage overhung the water. II bore long sprays
of blue, brown. specked berries. which exactly
resembled miniature birds eggs 1t interest
ing to find that the virtues of this odd vegetable
are known to the natives. who extract from its
juices the indelible blue dye used in tattooing.
In 1856, at the time Of the terrific eruption,
when successive earthquakes rent the thermal
belt, Tarawera, a mountain never suspected Of
any eruptive tendency, spouted fire and the
bottom blew sheer out of Lake Rotomahana.
Sulfing hundred Maoris and eight Europeans.
destroying the unique White and Pink ter
races, and coating the country for miles around
with deep layer of mud and ashes. Then for
a space did the villagers Of Whakarewarewa
fee from their hahitatlons and seek more stable
ground.
The tqmult OF eruption, the ncessant tremors
portions
hotorua and the road near, combined with the
sudden and alarming energy evinced by certain
OF the plateau geysers notably Waikite. which
mad been inactive for the ten preceding years,
proved trying even for the nerves of those
customed to living over internal fires and when,
a few days later an innocent appearing cook
ing place, right in the centre Of the kainga.
suddenly became eruptive. violently ejecting
quantities OF stones and boiling water. the
Maoris stampeded and many moons waxed and
Waned before they gained confidence enough 10
return to their deserted village.
To quote Mrs. Pipis account Of the occur
renee; Two-three day we lie in house fright
ened; no go out. Then run away. five-six
mile 10 mountains, and live there. After three
year come back"
THE GOVERNMENT AND THE SPRINGS.
TWO miles distant from whakarewarewa lies
Rotorua, the terminus OF the railway from Auck-
land "A township born OF the recent action of the
New-Zealand Government in turning part Of the
district into national sanitarium. Apart from
the many healing Qualities ascrbed TO its hot
springs, Rotorua enjoys the reputation of being
fashionable resort. It possesses many rival
hotels and boarding houses, and is totally lack
ing in any picturesque qualifications Science
working for the good of the greater number in
compelling Nature TO her service, has dealt the
death knel TO beauty. The vivifying founts are
Gagged. and yield their curative waters only
within the circumscrbed limits of certain baths;
the erstwhile chaotic and riotous action of the
geysers has been tanned and their ebullition is
now under perfect control
The work of the Government. though perhaps
reprehensible from a strictly artistic standpoint
is wholly Vindicated through the lasting benefit
Tedped Dy the NUMBERS or lnValldS who yearly
journey thither. many Of them bravng long
travel by land and sea- TO test the renovating
powers Of the hot springs
The waters vary greatly in curative proper
ties. The Priests Bath, which is built over a
thermal spring rising the margin OF Lake
RotOrua being strongly acidic is famed for its
good effects in all rheumatic ailments. including
gout and sciatica. There many other baths
used for specific complaints, but the favorite is
undoubtedly that known as Nine Rachcls
Bath. Its waters. which esteemed especially
cticacous in skin diseases. maintained at
an equable temperature, and, being alkaline, i'm
part a delightful sensation OF velvety smooth
to the skin.
lous cures wrought within her precincts. The
atmosphere is TedOent of them; they mingle
with the Odor of sulphuretted hydrogen. and
assail one at every street cOrnor.
when he came to Rotorua," remarked local
shopkeeper, indicating apparently robust
passer by, he that bad he had to he carried
to the sanitarium by three men; and if you'll
believe it, before he had been here n week he
walked into this store and bought a stick of to-
bacco off me without any assistance whatever"
AN ORIGINAL MAORI VILLAGE
The original Maori village. Ohinemutu lies on
the edge of the lake; and its meeting house.
with its deliberately carved front. is the finest
of visit the elders of the village were dis
cusSing some important matter within. and
did not disturb the meeting by entering. Just
outside sat two women busy over n primitive
process Of spinning a stone cast off stands a
modern church and the remains OF an ancient
fortiffcation known as tho "Smken Pah."
Extreme sobTicty one would imagine neccs-
sary condition to existence at Whakarewarewa,
and indeed extreme sobriety prevails. \ pace
from a mans doorway may, and usually does,
of the grewsomcIy bubblng mud volcanoes are
christened. while step aside from the public