Evening star., 1901-02-16
STYLES IN MEMS DRESS
THE SUMNER MAN OF THE NEW
CENTURY.
The Comfortable and the Sensible
for the Heated Term.
From the Haberdasher.

From the Haberdasher.
The mode is elastic. It stretches ana 4,
conforms to the requirements of the age
and of the season. 1t reflects the customs
and the habits of the people and 1t indi-
Gates the presence of the particular sport
that Tor the time being is in the ascendancy.
when the times are settled and men go
along from one season to another without
changing in any very important detail their
habits of life. dress Is not likely to be sub
jected to any radical changes. When our
country went to war there was an i'm
mediate demand for things la militaire
from the stay-at-homes as well the fight
ers. In the very decided military cut or
mufti clothes We can still find a reminder
Of the Spanish-American skirmish. Inc
broad-shouldered. small-waisted man is
from the model issued from West Point
The long full-skirted top coats and the
short springy jackets are purely military
in their general appearance. The erect body
with the military shoulders and chest con-
formation is particularly adapted to the
new clothes. and SO long as the vogue sane
tions athletics and adores militarism man
will dress in smartly cut. close-iittina
clothes.
Men who adhere to following the extremes
Of fashion have carried the military jacket
and peg top trousers TO limits that are not,
10 say lIle IedSl, conducive artlSllC
suits. These ultra jackets and trousers are
unsightly. The newest models for spring
show very marked departures in two i'm
portant respects. The first is the length OF
jackets, the second is In the cut of jackets.
The new jackets will have four buttons.
with the front slightly cut away. The
spring will be less decided than the pre-
vailing model, and the coat will be long
enough to cover the buttocks. Trousers Will
be cut to conform to the new jacket lines.
and this means less OF the peg top look.
The trousers will not be quite so full about
the knee and thighs. The bottoms will be
cut to slope from the back to the front.
and will be about 9l4 inches larger than
the shoe size. In all outing and neglige
suits the trousers will be made with a fin
ished turn-up at the bottom which Will be
from 11a to 2 inches wide. All trousers de-
signed for wear without a coat VIII be made
without hip pockets and without the strap
and buckle in the back The belt loops Will
provide for belt not over 11a inches wide.
and will be placed in the center of the
front, center of the back and over each hip
bone. This Is four loops. Some OF the
trousers will nave at the top OF the
side seam. This will be about two inches
deep. 1t will close with very small buckle
and strap. These side straps give smooth
back and front to trousers.
Fancy FIanneIs Give Way.
The fancy fiannels which were so common
last summer will not figure in the wardrobe
of the well-dressed man as extensively as
they did last year. The suit that will take
their place Is made of a very light serge.
which is in the dark blue tone with almost
invisible stripes of green. red or white run"
ming through 1t. These new serges are also
in the popular flannel tones, but all OF the
effects are very much subdued. Another
suiting that will be popular Is the home
spun. These are in the natural light gray
tones, with the natural black and brown
knots here and there. The gray pialds in
worsteds and cheviots, and the new brown
and heather tone tweeds will also be In
somewhere in the neighborhood of tine
finish" Blue serge suits made with the
double breasted three -buttoned Jacket VIII
find a place in every wardrobe. 1t is good
handy suit, and can be worn as 1t comes
from the tailors with different trousers.
Combination suits of black jackets ana
fancy trousers will also-be in good form.
1 am now reviewing informal dress ana
will make no attempt to go into formal at
tire. For street wear IN town ana ABOUT
the country the covert will more than hold
its own although the raglan Will be very
much in evidence. The raglan is too long
and mussy for spring, and Is out or place
when one goes for good brisk walk. IL Is
a stable coat, a driving coat, something
never intended for the man who depends
upon shanks mare for all his transporta-
ton.
WaistcOats Abandoned.
The waistcoats will practically be aban-
doned next summer, and We will have the
neslige shirt in its place. The coatless man
Is an impossibility,. and l do not think no
will be seen outside Of low grog shops ana
tenement houses. The neglige shirts VIII
be of two kinds, the plain and the pieated.
The fine trade is preparing to give the pleat-
ed shirt the most enthusiastic backing Tne
best model is the closely pleated front with
the pIeats not over one inch wide. The
bosoms will have square END ana Will pe
long enough to tuck in the trousers. That
is. the end will be out OF sight. There VIII
be nothing arbitrary about the size or
pleats. They will be made to mt the pat
terms in the shirtings. The plain front
shirts will be made with and without the
centerpiece In shirtings the large variety
of striped effects in two and three coiors
will be offered in white grounds, with law
ender, blue. black, pink. oxblood ana RED
stripes. These colors Will also De SHOWN IN
solid colored shirtings. White negiige shirts
and black and white neglige shirts Will be
among the most popular. The shirts Will be
made with 311-inch-wide stitched link Guns,
with square or with rounSed 1h up UPS hand co,.
lar win be the only style that will be in
good form with the neglige SHIRT. Ihese
collars will be good IN all helgnts up 70
p. inches They will be made with the ex-
tension band and the lap-oyer band ana
with wide as well as with narrow stitching.
The round-cornered. closely spaced outer
high-banders do not look well. and the
trade has about decided to go back to the,
more slightly round points.
Cravats and Belts.
The cravats will have to fit the collars.
They will be in subdued tones and the de-
signs will reveal small, bright treatments.
The batswing with square or with pointed
wings and the derby will be the favorites.
The derby will be 2 inches wide and 40
inches long. or IL inches wide and 90 inches
long Some Of the smartest OF the uptown
shops have given up the very narrow DERBY
and will push the two-inch model
Belts will be about one and half or one =.
inch wide and will be made In one piece.
The saddler made, heavy-looking belts are
hest for outing. One may with proprfety
divide the belts up to meet the various oc-
ca sions The heavy black leather trace belt
will do for outing. the fine kid belts for the
flannels, the neatly stitched patent leather.
kid and other fine skins will do for business
wear.
So we will have next summer the comfort
ably and sensibly dressed man. Clothes will
AIT as they should. Figures will be less
sharply outlined and color will be depended
upon to add life to a costume that Is sadly,
lacking in all color qualities.
singular Plurals.
r,ro,, tha rnpdon Cbroufclo