The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-07-14
o GOWNS GROW GAYER AS TIE WEATHER WAKES WARMER .

4 \ 1 1 L IL
apese.a co1ss.uoadsnes e n, smdav 1pu.nA
June A-oovns grvv sayw . -
01 v1es Vaxmw ana q bey &-.
'esfn1 a1ong ths ysvmenaAs =
o16 O. Ms houlev.rds = nks uuts .
eeso0 q nssraut novzu IN fun bloom,
1ne mo1scs sls legion and H. ya1Sssy a
mt and color tnanita
!Noo ~ n high frm n vhate ma 0eu.
80 eme.i whatA howsvss, yssdomansstns.
49, s0 80 smtnent1y adapted ~
Weas1g VIM cotton shirt vaises h nany
" sns sss each narrow gore = Put to-
ssosR WIN opewWo1k hesnssitehtnR. Huvue.
ne embroidery. sto One q several shaped
nounese appear q the 1oot, sthesu ars
Trimmed snectfvsly with rows q black
voos0 oseid @ With narrow cotton heald
dettsd WITH black Or q colo.
Nssy 6nsm skirtA hhmnsd vim bands
- esd. navy blue @ whttA an moro sszv.
ses:oss snaa paaus. - thev Do nas need
sueh frequent laundsrins.
0tamme skdrS afs dressy and a6suirab,y
suteo 1oe eeashots wear, they axs Of light
weight ana can b mada oyur batiste -
ven 40 taffeta.
Tunios a trimminss 10 s4nuua.ts euniu.
vsry frequently now head IT, deem fnot
dounos ACKNOWLEDGEMENT nounoe. arur.
on wooden materials MANY .kirt. are
trimmed Just below the waist and inserted
aooordion-pleated panels give 4 very sraaa.
full sweep Daughters Of the rode divine.
~ tall greet U on all sidea, and those who
arc not Of great stature do all thew can
to produce the effect by broad perpendtcu-
lar trimmings Of velvet from the waist.
These generally start on either side of
the 'front.' breadth and are carried all round.
sometlmes they are broken and divided
halfway down the skirt, are folded into
an angle mot by similar angle to a stripe
TO match. starting from the hem OF the
slkirt.
11ounces' both carcular-shape and straight,
ngure ON most Of the washing gowns. In
more dressy toilets they are replaced by
deep lace or materials edged with lace.
Ciuny lace borders many Of the foulards
Wnite chinon. with a wavy border formed
OF festoons Of Chantilly lace and triple
rufnes. figures on nearly al tho gowns in
tended for full dresA.
Inc oest way FOR making q muslin gown
10 unnned. ana worn over q prtncesse dress
OF white glace silk, fastening down the
oack. euch princesse dress may, of course,
90 DUTY under half q dozen muslin gowns,
ana tho simplest way Of making these is
with yoke Of lace. slightly gathered bod
Ice and belt OF glaco and skirt with tucks
on the straight dounce. I have seen the like
In white muslin patterned with pink roses.
with yoke OF Valenciennes lace striped
with beading, threaded with black velvet
ribbon. and belt Of pink glace. and can
imagine 1t crowned with a hat Of pale pink
tied at the back with q large double
bow Of black ribbon and completed with one
Of the latest ruffies OF white chiffon, with
tiny black spot upon 1t, achieving eminent
success even in the most distinguished and
expensive society.
Very attractive linen dresses are made In
Holland or In bun tone. with collar, vest
or trimming bearing hand-embroidery in
color. and it Is best for all such materials
to be made without lining and worn over
silken princesss slip: and it would be well
to supply yourself also with q separate
silken skirt and q separate silken bodice to
meet the exigencies Of other blouses and
thin skirts
Inere Is nothing very new in belts Just
now. Glace seems to be the most favored
ribbon for the purpose, but, perhaps glace
SILK, when hemmed and cut on the cross.
Is the more advisable. for 1t will stretch
with greater becomingness to the waist.
I have been watching with interest the
revolution In corsets. Until within the last
year the corsets have all been made with
decided curve at the waist and a good deal
of pulling up, SO as to have a fashionably
small waist. All this was not only exceed
ingly uncomfortable, but very bad for the
health
glance over the fashion papers of the
last few years will give you good idea of
the transformation. In the first place. the
new corsets have very straight front and
the pressure is taken away from the stom-
ach. They are long and quite tight over
the hips and abdomen.
The honor of this modification Is due to
young doctress. who. finding the pressure
on the stomach to be very injurious, sought
way Of remedying the evil.
These corsets give the waist the appear
ance of being long and throw the upper
figure forward-so much SO that a plumb
line falling from the collar would reach to
the ankles. They are made most luxuriously
and Of satin and taffeta Those in taffeta
are much less durable than the satin ones.
For summer we find them in batiste or
oven tuiIe, WHICH ~ very uSHt anu aSTee'
able to wear.
With all French women the corset Is one
Of the most important articles of dress, and
they never forget that a corset well made
is the foundation Of well-fitting toilets.
They prefer to wear gown quite plain
with a well-made corset to an exquisite
dress over an ili-ftting foundation.
the who SDeni much
money as she pleases on her wardrobe a
good lump sum can go into her corsets. A
few years ago a $50 or $25 corset was not
in demand. but with the increasing luxury
of the times and greater care for detail
more and more women are wearing the
finer corsetS. There Is occasionally wom-
an who will lay in a stock of dozen
corsets at a time. but there are more who
will buy half dozen. This is what tho
latter woman will buy in getting general
supply.
She will buy three pairs OF corsets in
coutil and pay for them from $3.50 to
1880 pair: she will get two pairs OF
batiste corsets-and these are particularly
pretty-at $780,. and another pair Of silk
for s25 If she wishes others than these.
she will probably have pair Of negligee
corsets, the prettiest of simple little low
corsets with ribbon and elastic straps over
the shoulders. These corsets may be made
of striped batiste. or If they are for sum
mer wear she can find pair made en-
TT. L..