Evening star., 1901-08-31
CANOEING ON
THE T0BIQUE.

Whose has never enjoyed canoeing on
the Tobique has missed an experience wen
worth the having. Not only does it yield
keen delights for the time being; it is cal
culated to adorn the walls of memory with
most pleasant pictures for years to come.
Neither do these charms come alone from
the water, the trees, the sky. the clouds,
the birds, and the thousand other witch
cries that nature presents to the lovers CT
outdoor life in haunts far renewed from
civilization. In addition to all these the
Tobique holds out the most seductive IN
ducements, alike to lovers Of the gun ana
the rod. All kinds of game are abundant
in the primeval forests through which her
courses run, and the stream itself is
counted one of the best for salmon any
where on the Atlantic slope. whether size
or numbers of fish be taken into the ac-
count. In truth the quest of that noblest
of the finny tribe is the hook, upon which
summer excursions up the IoblQue are
usually hung, so to speak.
But, what and where is the Tobiaue?
does some one ask who perchance may
be a little rusty in geography, with 10
modern atlas conveniently at hand. For
the benefit of such, if such there be, let
most pellucd water that rises among the
forest-cIad mountains Of northwestern New
Brunswick hard by the Maine border
line. and finds it's way into the Bay OF
Fundy through the magnificent river ST.
John. 1t has long been famed as salmon
stream, and those who are privileged TO
test their luck and skill in it's waters with
rod and fly are privileged indeed. AS is
the case with most if not all the salmon
streams in the Dominion of Canada. the
right to fish in the Tobique is secured ny
Tease license from the government.
These rights are granted to individuals or
clubs covering one or more pools, ana LOT
longer or shorter periods, as the case may
be.
The principal pools on this stream. and
its best, belong for the time being to the
TobiQue Salmon Club, an association orisi-
naIly organized and officered by Phliaael-
phians. but with present membership
representing several states. Among ITS
members known to readers of The Star
are Senator Redfeld Proctor, of YER
mont. and Col. Myron NJ. Parker. or
Washington. Both are counted among
it's Oldest members, and also among the
most enthusiastic and successful OF us
wielders of both the rod and the gun: ana
to the thoughtful hospitality of the last
named gentlemen is due the writing OIL
these hastily penned notes.
The club maintains a comfortable c|uo
house at what is called the forks OF the
river,-that Is, where the east and west
1t controls something like a dozen or more
pools both above and below the club house;
and to protect them from poachers, etc,
it employs during the summer season
number of wardenS, stationed at various
commanding points.
Getting to the TObique
from Washington is no small undertaking.
It requires from three to five days time,
according to the point to be ultimately
reached. and includes some twelve hum
dred or more miles of railway travel,
davis wagon ride, and from two to three
days' canoeing if the farthest pool be In
cluded in the itinerary. In detal, you
leave Boston in the evening, and arrive. IN
time for breakfast. at McAdam, the Juno
ton Of the Maine Central and Canadian
Pacific railways There you change cars
for Perth, or Andover Junction, where you
change cars again, this time for Plaster
Rock the last railway station on the route
There or thereaboutS you remain all night,
then go by wagon some thirty miles to the
last farm house on the river, ana from
that point by Indian canoe to the club
house and points beyond. You can, how
ever. go the whole distance of this last
stage of the journey by canoe, If desired;
but padding or polling up stream Wnere the
current is strong and rapids that rise
to the dignity of cascade are as IreQaeHt
as in the Tobique is slow and tedious
process. The wagon is therefore. generally
used as far as practicable.
1t would not be easy to find pieasanter
dav's railway trip than the ride up the
valley of the St. John. 1t Is in every sense
a magnificent stream, and well deserves 10
be mentioned along with the hnest water
courses on the continent. lts chahhei s
wide and its current is swift. Both sides
of it's valley, sloping down from the foot
hills to the waters edge, are covered with
attractive-looking and well-kept 1arms
alternating with pretty groves and big
tracts of timber land. The dwelling houses
and outbuldings generally look new. most
of them are painted in appropriate colors;
and the surroundings all look neat ana
we'll cared for. Indeed, one does not often
see in any country rural region OF the
same extent showing so many indications
of thrift and good taste throughout In
short the whole valley impresses the oo-
servant traveller as the abode of an intelll-
gent well-to-do people. This state OF
things is less apparent on the Tobique
There the country becomes more noun
famous. The valley Is narrower. and the
land more uneven and abounding in rocks.
Yet even here are some attractive and pro-
ductiye little farms; fair crops of hay and
some of grain are raised and the people
are comfortably housed, and seem to be
fairly well off.
After leaving Plaster Rock. the terminus
of the branch railway, hotels disappear.
There is in fact, little if any need for them
above that point. Travel Is light, whether
in summer or winter, and consists wholly
of anglers, hunters, and lumbermen, going
into or coming out Of the vast forests be-
yond To meet the usually simple wants
of these most of the farm houses on the
way are prepared, in greater or less de-
gree, to accommodate wayfarers, and at
most Of them. when meal time or nightfall
comes, the worthy traveller can secure
a palatable meal Of simple sustaining food
or a fairly comfortable nights lodging.
In this respect. our little party, consisting
Of Col. Parker. Mr.. Whitehouse, OF the
Department of State, and the writer, were
so fortunate as to be entertained, both 60
ing in and coming out. by the hospitable
family of the late Captain Sadler, an
American skipper sailing out of Boston for
many years, who, couple Of decades ago,
gave up the perils Of the sea for the
Quieter life of farmer in the valley Of
the Tobique, where his remains now re-
pose And lucky are the travellers who are
similarly favored. for one does not often
find al IN q md hirI1