Evening journal., 1901-04-23
How Women ShOuId Dress

Those whose business it is to de-,
sign the modishness OF every change
Of season have classified women into
three distinct divisions. The first
class includes only women of height
and perfect figures, svelte, graceful,
neither stout nor thin. For the secondl
grouping come women tall or short
but abnormally slender and angular;
while the third class comprise those
Of robust weight, both the massively
tall and the round and short We're.
it possible TO hope that most women
would honestly place themselves in the
category to which they belong, the fol-
lowing suggestions would work Won
ders.
Where the girth of the waist is alb
normally large, avoid belts and gir-
dies. or anything to call attention to
it's size The only model in that case
is a bodice whose seams in the back
fall below the waist line and form a
yoke for the skirt to be attached to
The fronts may be loose. but tucked,
OF striped with lace or ribbon. length
wise, and form into stole tabs several
inches long. This gives becoming
front to the bodice and Obliterates the
Objectionable lines
Mantles for such women should be
of three-quarter length, and hang loose
from the shoulders, rather than take
jacket lines. All large women should
wear their skirts to the ground. They
diminish the natural size wonderfully.
Those in the first division, according
to the modes of the day, have few re-
strictions placed upon them, as for
them alone have present modes been
created. The one great care to be OBJ
served by them, as a class, is that
they shall resist all temptation to over
ornamentation Of their gowns, and adj
here to a simple treatment Ct skirt
and bodice, so as to make prominent
their conventional contour Such
women will afterwards learn that
gowned in this manner, they not only
do Justice to the beauty Of their figures
but gain immensely in personal dis
tinction.
Women who are extremely slender
whether tall or short, need soft dra-
peries to counteract natures angular
ity, plenty of hOuncings and plisses
laces, and ribbons to create grace Oh
movement Bodice and skirt should
never retain the least rigor OF out
line Arms should be swathed in
ldiaphOnary coverings, and necks hint
ed at rather than exposed. The ari
Of concealing defects becomes famil.
lar after a little study and attention
and when that happens we may be
convinced we are on the right roaC
toward dressing in good taste.
Contrary to these suggestions mus
one act who is overburdened will
flesh, be she massively tall, or a round
Nraa.I Ia a..a.1M= sknHI. 90
woman Of this class should lead he
to avoid light cOlors, which never fai
p TO enlarge the figure line, and to con
, fine herself to middle and dark col
ors. Stripes arc always most hatter
ing to the robust, and especially g
when they decrease toward the bel
line on both bodice and skirt as the
should be made to do. Nothing give
the illusion Of slenderness Sd perfect
~. If pale cOlors are ever attompte
they should be yelled over with some
thing that will tone down the bril-
liancy, take the accent off the line. an
: subdue or break it altogether. Trim
mings are to be kept close TO the fie
ure also, and as fiat as possible Tn
waist-line of the bodice should b
poiuted. or made 10 appear so. by tn
manner in which the girdle or th
bodice finish is put on. The bus
should never be pushed up by veal
r ing a corset SO constructed that give
an undesirable prominence whic
7 would ruin any figure. Sleeves shoul
never be fitted TO a large arm with tn
IclOseness we sometimes Observl
e That is a deformity, because of tn
suggestion of breaking Through, whic
is painful.-New England Farmer