New-York tribune., 1901-02-10
ORNAMENTAL VESTS FOR JACKETS AND BoLERos

punches Of black velvet. tied at Intervals
from under 4 knot of white panne and black vel
vet. Above the garment has great. pointed D
rectoire revers. faced with white panne and In
crusted with lace. There is a high Aglon collar,
faced with panne. About the shoulders is triple
rufie like a cape Of black taffetas stitched with
white. There sleeves. and the bolero part
Of the garment is cut with large armholes. II is
easy what broad effect is given to the
shoulders by the cape collar and the Directoire
revers, and how trig the waist appears with the
small coattails breaking the line in the back.
This same model is handsome in CLOTH with a
double cape collar that starts from under the
Aiglon choker. There is also a second model
that dspenses with the bolero II has simply the
Aiglon collar, yoke and the cape; two straps in
the back attach this wide girdle belt. 10 which
the coattails are attached. This is charming in
gray velvet embroidered with steel with choker
faced with white and with shoulder ruffes Of white
taffetas. This model can hardly fail 10 become
success. and 1t should not become monotonous
one for so long the general outline is pre-
served there may be dozen different ways OF
trimming IT.
The Directoire vest Will not prove 10 be uni
yersallv becoming as the little garment just de-
scribed II is generally worn with Jacket that
comes below the waistline and over long blouse
Of mousseline and lace.
NEW FORM OF LACING.
Lacings Of black velvet any kind OF narrow
ribbon have not been uncommon during the win
ter but the latest idea soft twists of silk,
large as the rim Of quarter Of a dollar. Some OF
the simpler fouards are made with soft blouses or
cheisettes laced across in this way. The TWO fol-
lowing gowns elaborate visiting frocks, on
which the idea is SEEN
The material for the first gown is a new kind OF
crepe with a surface that resembles poplin the
Olga crepe II is called The color is a deep, dull
shade Of red. On the bottom OF the skirt stopping
at the front panel, is shaped founce OF the crepe
covered with a trimming made Of appliQued figures
eHsr-b .ha silver
cord The side pieces OF the fitted bodice arc
trimmed in the same manner. There is an under
blouse OF embroidered white mousseline de sole
The middle part OF the bodice runs up 10 the
choker but is slashed both sides 10 the bust 10
show the underblouse. These slashings are laced
across with rope Of palest blue panne Behind
there is a choker and yoke OF white lace over blue.
ending Just IN front OF the shoulder seams, where
the slashings begin. There mousseline under
sleeves The bell-shaped sleeve we is trimmed
al the bottom with the red and silver embroidery
that appears the skirt and sides of the bodice
The second gown is OF ecru cloth. The bolero is
made with collar. wide across the shoulders, and
extending in bands that cross on the bust and tuck
into the waistband. separating enough TO show a
short vest. The waistband and vest are of reseda
green satin softly draped Over the vest three ropes
OF darker green velvet unite the sides Of the bolero
The wide collar and bands the jacket are OF
white silk embroidered in silver cord and green
chenille Tie choker and pointed chemisette are
OF tucked white mousseline. The bell sleeves are
trimmed below the elbows with harro" nands 10
match the collar and show full undersleeves OF
tucked mousseline. The skirt is untrmmed' with
scant tucks on the sides just over the hips' ana
punches Of pleats in the back
There is a model that is most conspicuous at the
moment which, while II has little claim TO grace
or beauty cannot be dsregarded when Directoire
effects are discussed. II consists OF plain prin-
cesse effect 10 the bust. by short Jacket
made generally with Directoire revers Sometimes
the gown is made with small circular pleats over
the hips these lines continuing 10 the bust
This may he called an effective model in black
panne the skirt laid in tucks 10 the bust In the
manner described The 5olero ana elbow sleeves
are Of antique guipure. bordered with sable. In
front between the Jacket sides is a scarf Of pale
pink gauze. embroidered with gold thread This
is carried about under the bolero TO soften the
decolIetage and is knotted with ends falling down
on the skirt This model is at its best on an even
ing toilet but IT is often used for cloth and
wool gowns
GAUZE EMPIRE GOWNS.
Graceful examples OF Empire evening gowns are
made for the most part OF soft materials. One Of
an embroidered black gauze, made with lots Of
ruffies about the bottom. has tiny Empire jacket
Of jet. The decolletage and the bottom of the
skirt trimmed with small wreaths of tiny pink
roses. the effect being exquisitely dainty There
sleeves, but wreath of the flowers at
tached 20 the shoulder strap falls the top OF
the arm.
A modified form Of the Directore costume has a
princesse back and sides. with loose front hang
ing from the decolletage. This front, in the in
stance in mind, is shorter than the rest OF the
gown falling in folds that suggest a large box
pleat and showing IN front underskiTt Of purple
velvet edged with sable The pTincesse Overgown
is Of lilac meteore crepe, bordered with fur In
place OF the usual short jacket the gown revers
from front Of the decolletage and a short yoke
I'm the back OF gold gauze. embro iered with blue
and purple stones. The elbow sleeves are of vel
vet with cuff piece of the embroidered gauze and
a fal OF cream lace.
While on the subject OF evening toilets one must
not forget a little fashion that has appeared with
the very long gloves that worn. These gloves
are made with eyeet holes at the top. and a rib
bon or bracelet with clasp is In and out OF
these openings. When the ribbon is used II is
tied TO hold the glove securely the arm; in
the case OF the bracelet the clasp answers the
purpose.
for the evening than those OF thin materials Satin
naturally suggests the most beautiful and elabo-
rate embroideries, and among these pattern OF
peacock feathers takes the lead. This is carried
out in shades OF green silk and silver and gold
thread a pale yellow satin ground. Indeed. II
may be effectively used on any lig I shade
A PAINTER OF SIGNS.