Evening star., 1901-06-14

Stngle-Breasted FrOck.
A desperate effort appears to be pending
to revive the single-breasted frock coat
boom Of last year. 1t will be fresh in the
memory still how some imaginative jour-
nalist saw. or thought he saw, or was prim-
ed by some one else who saw or imagined
he saw, his present majesty King Edward
wearing the garment at a garden party
last year. In spite OF this august associa-
ton. however, somehow the idea never
caught on with the elect. There u.s. of
course. no earthly reason why such a coat
should not come into favor. 1t can easily
be made to look very smart, and certainly
1t has superior hygienic claims over its
double-breasted comrade for the hot
weather. Not a few people expressed sur
prise last year that 1t did not take on.
think the real reason lay in the fact that,
as l pointed out at the time, the whole
tale about the king and the coat was a
fake, and that. once discovered, it was an
easy transition for the man of fashion to
persuade himself somewhat ilogically,
that the thing must be tabooed
A new departure has been made in the
construction Of the Norfolk jacket. 1t has
been lowering about, so to speak. for a
long time, but has now come SO pronounce
edly into favor that It behooves me to
place 1t upon serious record. Briefly 1t re-
iates to the design of the pleats, which
now, instead of being made in the belt
IKE style that formerly prevailed, are
or grooves or sltts running up the coat. 1t
is contended that for golfing, cycling and
other sports this inverted pleat affords
more play to the figure than in the old
style. AS far as appearance goes. how
ever, there Is not much to be said In it's
favor; 1t does not look SO we'll as the belt
ed pleat even when 1t is new. and as time
goes on the grooves tend to lose their reg
ular1ty, gaping in parts and presenting
anything but smart appearance. I do
not think the novelty is destined to enjoy
very long life The shoulder yoke in the
Norfolk jacket, about which I wrote some
months ago, still retains its popularity, the
new pleats beginning at its lower extrem-
lty, as In the case Of the belt pleats.
Straw Hats.
In the world of hats matters are a little
confused at present. The "straw-yard"
will certainly be extensively worn, but
fancy its rivals will have q better show
this year than hitherto. A few men, great
ly daring, have ventured to wear a plain
straw, with not only the conventional
black band, but also with a narrow black
border all around the edge of the brim
Arising indirectly out Of the military spirit,
some men have been wearing their straw
yards with plain leather band, buckled
exactly like belt, but this also does not
make progress In favor, except with the
1alr sex, who seem to be taking to 1t. A
somewhat extraordinary affair." made of
straw and shaped like cross between a
"Baden-Powell' and a Wideawake. is maxi
Ing desperate efforts to secure recognition
1t has raised edges or pleats running across
the crown In the form Of cross and is fit
ted with narrow black band finished with a
long struggling bow with ends that futter
in the breeze. The Panama straw will. I
think, be worn more than last year. II
does not suit every man. and therefore will
not achieve that universal favor enjoyed
by Its plain round rival, but there seem
to be more Of 1t, especially among the ul-
tra-smart who recognize the possibilities
1t presents as sort of manifesto of the
wearer's social position. There seems to
be no limit to the absurdly extravaRant
prices that may be given for it. By the
way, one prominent dealer whom I inter-
viewed on the subject laid this latter fact
to your charge, saying that the American
houses were buying up all the output For
automobiiists speciality is being intro
duced in the shape Of a sort Of Yachting
cap with glazed peak and fitted with a
or down at pleasure. The idea is, of course,
to protect the eyes from sudden assail-
ments in the way Of dust or insects. I OH
serve, however. that some motor owners
prefer to protect themselves by fixing a
wide expanse of sheet glass on their ma
chimes.
Automobile Costumes.
Speaking of automobilists reminds ma
that their rapid increase In this country
OF late has resulted. IS was inevitable. In
the establishment Of a fashion department
Of their own. neat rig for the modern
motorist consists of a plain but smart
looking jacket made Of leather or leather
cloth and designed to protect the wearer
from the rush Of air as he whirls alons.
an important point in modern machines
For the same reason 1t fastens high uu in
the neck. and long -wristed gloves or saunt-
let's are worn with it to prevent the wind
passing up the sleeves. No buttons are
visible: they are inside the Jacket For
those who do not like the appearance Of
the leather the ordinary cloth is used