Evening star., 1901-11-09
Artistic Beauty OF Ball Gowns for
This Winter.
JET AND GOLD DIVIDE fHE HONORS
A Touch of Black Gives Tone to
Every Toilet.
A THIRTY DOLLAR FROCK
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.

Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
NEW YORK, November Z, 1901.
Magnificence of material and simplicity
of cut are the distinguishing features or the
new evening gowns. There is, too, no
ticeable modification in the flare of skirts,
which in the richer textures reveal superb
insets of lace and pailettes (spangles} of
gold OF jet. The popular bodice is the round
"baby'' affair, which shows a decolletage
discreetly modest as to limit, and with this
a skirt that fastens across the back with
out gathers is favorite model.
However, to obtain this very desirable
plainness, which looks so extremely simple,
a good cut is necessary, and any accident
al shortening of seam will bring disaster,
as the placket must meet easily to set well.
Inverted plaits are a simpler device for the
placket f1nish-from one to three each side
the lap-and one that may be attempted by
the most modest home dressmaker.
Elbow sleeves. fitting the upper arm tight
ly and ending in a deep killed fiounce of
lace or chiffon, are a detail of certain styl-
ish brocade bodices, which accompany lace.
chiffon OF net. skirts, and show smart little
folded tails, held down by two or more
jeweled buttons. An under blouse OF the
skirt texture often shows at sides and front
of these; the decolletage is rather lower
than that of the round bodice, and is fin
ished with prim little collars and revers,
which, if of lace, may end in stole points
that fasten under a crush belt Of panne
velvet or gold net.
White and Gold Effects.
Among the French models a few rare
gowns in softly falling crepe or silk show
a decidedly Greek influence in the severe
simplicity of their hang" and in their
white and gold combinations. White and
gold &c in fart fayorife rnotiye this sea-
son for toilets de soiree, and by that is
meant anything that is low in the neck,
and which has been fashioned with festive
evening intent. Not even the radiantly
charming little frocks of net and mousse
line, which show applied garlands of silk
flowers in natural tints, are as delightful
as these gold and white gowns. They are
the very pearls of the season, and though
the white and gold motive may be carried
to points of barbaric splendor, 1t yet admits
of the simplest treatment.
For instance, a fairy-like costume of white
tulle is threaded at the fiounces with fine
raw edges of hens being held in place by
it. Tulle cannot be too lightly handled,
and to preserve the look Of misty airiness
which it needs to be effective, dressmakers
frequently leave hounces and ruchings un-
hemmed
Another white and gold gown was Of
crepe de chine, treated with embroideries
in fat tinsel Of the most FURNISHED and
glittering variety. The design of these en-
broideries was a sort Of horn of plenty,
overf1owing at the wide top with raised
punches of grapes; slightly below the top of
these, which pointed upward from the skirt
hem. and were perhaps six In number,
small butterfly was posed as If fallen from
the fruit. Across the front Of the baby
bodice single horn, overaowed at the two
sides for evenness, and in startling contrast
to this magnificence, there was a tiny neck
ruche of black net, which finished the skirt
as well.
Distinctive French Taste.
It Is this surprising combination of ma
terials that makes the French CONNECTION a
thing of beauty and a joy forever. How
ever odd it is, it has distinction all it's
own. and you wonder. as you look upon
the artful mixtures, why you had never
thought of putting these things together
Black velvet ribbon, the narrow baby sort
seen this long while, is a frequent note on
the simpler evening gowns 1t is threaded
through big-holed nets. laces skirt panels,
bodices and sleeves and sometimes appears
punched in great knots, which are thrown