Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1901-08-31


TN HE Mediterranean, sailing west
ward, July lsth.-Acoordins to
the customary routes of travel
in this part Of the world, laid
down by guide-books and steam
ship companies, Tripoli belongs
to the Egyptian and Syrian
tour, and not TO the department
of northern Africa Certainly we had
no intention OF visiting II on the pres
snt trip; but being at sousa, and seeing
a ship just ready TO steam away TO
Tropoli-lhe very next southwark port
1.-The temptation was too great 10 De
resisted, especially when assured that
the detour need occupy only four days
time. We have planned for visiting
Jerusalem, Jaffa, the Nile region ana
incidentally Tripol. some time next
year. but the future is uncertain ana
perhaps il Is wiser to miss none OF the
opportunities of today
Tripol stands In the midst of an oasis
at the northward end o the great Llby-
an desert. SO low and sandy Is the
shore that long before land Is visible
domes, towers and minarets appear 70
rise up out of the tranquil sea, Next
stately palms and date-trees are seem
overlapping ponderous walls; then
few low rocks and line OF SURF ana
finally wide foundation of silyery
beach and endless sands. II Is the only
exception we have yet seen to the mag
nncence Of the bold coast Of the Me-
diterranean. The city OF Trlpoli capt.
tai of the MOhammedan state OF the
same name, occupies a rocky promon-
tory, against which the waters beat on
two sides. The harbor Is for ned by
low reef which extends from vlis prom
ontory. There are two or thTe breaks
In the reef, which allow sn all boats
to enter, but the main entraf ce is hld-
den from view In the rOadste&d, around
the extreme edge OF the cape. owing
to rigorous quarantine laws tTripoli
being almost proscribed), most pass-n-
ger steamers do not call here at all,
because TO do so means twelve days In
quarantine when returned to Christen-
dom.
We anchored outside the harbor en-
trance, amid a crowd Of Turkish gun
boats and Greek feluccas, and hoisted
the usual signal for the United States
consul, whose blessed Stars and Stripes
could be plainly discerned, flutterlng
beside the red banner OF the sultan. On
its land side, Tripoll Is defended by a
massive wall. with bastlons; and to-
wards the sea II presents a formidable
array OF strong forts. terminating at
the southern angle In an immense cas-
tellated pile-the former residence of
the pasha. All the walls are dazzl-
ingly white and fairly bristling with
cannon; while innumerable domes and
tall graceful mlnarets, amid world OF
feathery foliage, gave us our first real
~ oriental view.
Finally, when all the tedious prellm-
inaries had been gone through, we were
permitted to squeeze through the har-
Dor entrance, between a line Of Turkish
gunboats, round the mole with its
frowning guns, and land at a rude
stone pier jutting out toward the har-
Dor gate. Words fail In attempting to
describe the strange crowds Ut met us
ashore-dark, repulslve, unfriendly |
faces; wild, savage, almost max
ed beggars, who did not ask. |
but demanded bucksheesh, long
Jews and groups Of ebony
slaves; and occasionally swarthy |
Turk or Arab OF better fortune, as pro-
claimed by this wonderfully rich cos
tuning, but more 10 be feared than |
those OF Inferior power. II looks speak |
truly. Donkeys passed US, laden with |
gigantic watermelons and driven by |
naked negro boys; and along the beach |
trains Of camels We're unloading bales |
OF silk, huge Jars of OIL sponges, SIENNA, |
wool, tobacco, elephants tusks, skins |
80 fnt ha
trade OF this Barbery state. as well as
all the inland commerce from Timbuk-
TO and Bornou, finds It's outlet at Trip
olo. The present population Is said TO
be about twenty thosuand-all Moham-
medans, except few Greek and Mar
onite Christians. The city Is built on
both sides Of the river KadIsh. among
beautiful gardens and orchards OF or
angc. lemon, apricot and apple trees.
No place on earth seems so wonderful
~ fertile as an oasis OF the desert.
Here water murmurs and sparkles
everywhere and covers the surround
Ing plain with greenest verdure. In
the heart OF Tripoli the streets are mar
row passage-ways like tunnels, wind
ing under groined arches. The houses
many OF which yet bear traces OF
American bombs and cannon-ba lls-are
very large and quaint, each IKE a sep
arate fortress, whose windowless in
scrutable fronts give no hint OF myc-
teries within. OF course there are
mosques without number, the principal
one, Ito which we could not gain 0d-
being very large and hand
some, topped by several small cupolas.
Among the ancient landmarks IL a tri-
umphal arch, or what remains Of II,
built OF enormous blocks Of marble, |