The Republican journal. [volume] (Belfast, Me.) 1829-current, 1901-03-28
THE ISLAND OF BoNAcA.

Once it came casually to pass that l
went to New Orleans to take charge of
a schooner. The captain had died at
the Bay Islands in the Caribbean Sea.
| sailed for these Islands in the schooner
to settle up his business. The captain
was the possessor in his own rights of a
store on Ruatan and Bonaca Islands.
When 1 arrived at Bonaca l sent the
schooner in charge of the mate to dis
charge some freight, then to come back
to Bonaca after me.
Bonaca is round, mountainous
island, with circumference of twenty
five miles, more or less, without inhabi-
tants, covered with tropical verdure,
entangled with vines, making it diff
cult to ascend the summit. Birds of re-
markable brilliance of colors are abun-
dant. Parrots encircled the highest
tree tops screaming, while the beautiful
paroquets were beyond enumeration.
The island is encompassed by bold
water on the north, east and west, and
on the south by numerous small islands
or keys slightly raised above the level
of the sea. These small islands are
shaded by tall cocoanut trees, which
grow profusely, overspreading the land
and water. On these small islands the
natives live among the cocoanut trees,
which completely shade them from the
tropical sun. The inhabitants were
mostly Mestizos, with a few negroes
who seemed to govern or direct. My
business was with a negress who had
charge of the store. When | called on
her she was remarkably polite, but soon
gave me to understand that she con
sidered herself my equal. She would
do no business until after dinner; then 1
learned that her word was law. She in
terrogated me about the late captain,
and | could give her but little informa-
ton, but satisfied her scruples as to who
and what | was. Her table was spread
under cocoanut tree with a cloth as
white as snow, and everything on the
table was scrupulously neat. A half
dozen Mestizos were in attendance to
wait on her beck and call.
| When dinner was ready [ was invited
to a seat at one end, while she seated
herself at the other end with two wait
ers, one on each side, while the same
sauce was served to me, The dinner
was highly pleasing to my taste, con-
sisting of rice, sweet potatoes, fried
plantain with a savory dish | did not
know what-though she told me, l was
no better informed-a bottle of claret
wine, with fig bananas (the most luscious
banana that grows and coffee in very
small cups. The subsequent history of
this savory dish | found out was Arma-
dillo, but ''happiness was bliss"
After dinner she passed me cigar,
and smoked one herself She had fin
ished the wine in her bottle, the effect
of which made her ludicrous and garru-
lous, with tendency to brag and boast.
When she got good and ready she had
her canoe prepared, getting in herself
and requesting me to go with her. We
went among the cocoanut groves with
their labyrinthian windings, stopping at
several shady islands and there collect
ing the money that was due her She
had no education, but by mutual I'M
derstanding between them the money
was paid her without protest or demur.
On our way back we stopped on Bonaca
midst cluster of palms on elevated
land. On a wild and solitary spot was
the cemetery of Bonaca Here mounds
after mounds were raised, with but
single stone, on which was inscribed
the name - - born in Scotland,
1900, died on Bonaca, 1865. She was
standing by the grave with her hand
resting on the stone and remarked, "He
that lies buried there was my husband;
he was white man, but none the bet
ter for that" With a few words she
then went home. The supper was pre-
pared, and after partaking of our sup
per was in quandary to know where
l was going to sleep. There was no
shelter but the cocoanut trees. could
not see that any means were provided
for me to sleep. l questioned her re-
garding the matter, but got no satisfac-
ton excepting litter of merriment.
While mentally trying to solve the
problem a servant made her appearance
with swinging bed, which she fastened
to the trunks of two cocoanut trees,
one of which was in the water. There
was gauze mosquito net for a spread.
and tarpaulin, in case of shower,
which would entirely overspread the
bed. l laid sometime in the bed think
ing before 1 went to sleep. A gentle
breeze was laden with a sweet odor,
and the ripple of the waters was audi
BILE. The soothing sounds lulled me to
| SleeD. When 7 aWOke the next morn