The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-12-07
HOW OLIVES ARE CURED.
IFrom the Arco speci


1T should be remembered" said the
olive man, that the constitution of an
olive is as delicate as that of a tender
child From the time the crop is gath
cred until it is finally packed in the
bottles, there is not moment which is
not fraught with the intensest anxiety
on the part of all who handle the fruit.
No other product requires such con-
slant application of the old maxim of
eternal vigilance as olives.
1.-The ball begins with the gathering
of the fruit. This is done in the late
summer or early autumn, while the
fruit is still green and hard, and al
together unsaYOry on account of it's in
tense bitterness. The olives are picked
by hand to prevent scratching and
bruising, and then conveyed in carts or
on pack mules to the curing establish
ment. Olive curing is a very delicate
and intricate process, for which no fixed
rules can be laid down. course of
treatment that in one instance would
prove successful might be absolutely
ruinous in another. The business of
curing, therefore, calls for expert talent
and is always iutrusted to a profession
al who brings to his task his own skill
and knowledge, supplements by the
experience of generations of kinsfolk
who We're curerS in that particular va
riety before him.
THE first step in the process of curing
is known as cooking When the fruit
comes to the curing establishment it is
placed in large watts filed with a mix
uufe OF lime and water. in which 1t I'M
dergceS kind of fermentation Cook
ing is merely a technical name for this
fermentation process.
When the fermentation has reached
certain stage-a matter requiring
anywhere from a few hours to few
days-the curer gives the S-ignal to
withdraw the plugs, and the liquid is
run off. The olives are then thoroughly
washed with fresh water until they are
bright and clean and every trace of
lime is removed If you were to taste
them now you would find that they had
lost most of their unpleasant bitter
ness.
After washing, the fruit is put in
casks filled with brine, and the casks
exposed, bungs open, to the sun. This
induces a second fermentation, which
takes place more or less rapidly, ac-
cording to the weather. However, as
Spain enjoys a fairly equable climate, a
period OF from three to four weeks gen.
orally Suffices. Throughout this second
fermentation the olives keep throwing
off the brine, so that the casks must be
inspected daily and kept filled with new
brine of the required strength.
Finally there comes a time when
they no longer throw off any brine
They are then ready for 'sorting'-that
is, for separation according to size and
quality. All that are perfect-of proper
color and free from scratches, spots
ard other blemishes-are called select
ed; the rest iculls.' The various sizes
5000 meaning olives that count so to
80 to the kilo.
After sorting the olives are then put
back into the casks, the bungs driven
In, and the whole is ready for shipment
to the American importer"
DO you begin to pack as soon as they
arrive in New York;" was the next
leading question.
NO, indeed. The long ocean voyage
affects olives as much as it does human
beings They generally succumb to
'seasicknesS' en- route-that is we find
them in some stage of fermentation on
arrival, which requires our constant
care until they recover"
Doesn't this 'seasickness,' as you call
it, impair the quality in any way?'
Not at all. 1t only makes the olive
man feel the burden of his responsible
ties. In every stage of fermentation
there is a critical moment when he
must exercise the greatest care and
caution If the olives recover they are
really much improved in quality If
they don't they are hopelessly ruined.
There is no intermediate condition.