davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-03-17

Amber beads in long strings are agai
fashionable. and all sorts Of trinkets classed
as summer tewelry'' are set with amber.
and l am told that the next summer girl
will simply dote on amber and coral.
Here are a few interesting notes concern
ing amber:
| According to an old tradition, amber
I comes from the tears shed by a mermaid
| who was deserted by q mortal with whom
she had plighted her troth. The desolate
mermaid is supposed to haunt the shores OF
the Baltic. weeping bitterly for her false
lover. and her tears are hardened and col
cred by the rays Of the sun.
Amber Is also said to be the tears shed
by the Meleagrides, daughters Of the King
of Artolis, for their brother Meleager, of
Argonautic fame. For a long time Me-
leager's life had depended upon a half-burnt
flrebrand. which his mother. Althaea. kept
with great care. until she discovered that
her own brothers had met their death at
the hands OF Meleager. Despite the frantic
entreaties Of her two daughters. the in
censed Queen Immediately flung her brand
into the midst Of the fire, and Meleager ex-
pired as soon as 1t was consumed. Althaea
foresaw trouble with her daughters. who
gave vent to loud lamentations. and. being
skilled in the black art" she turned them
into guinea-fowls. Once a year did the
transformed Meleagrides weep their am
Der tears as they flew from the Isles Of
Greece to India. Another version of the
story declares that the M%eleagrides were
turned into sea-birds. Moore refers to this
in THE Fireworshipers.' where a Peri.
lamenting for the death Of Kinda, says:
Around thee shall Elisten the loveliest amber
That ever the s%orrowing sea-bird hath wept.
With many a shell. in whose hollow wreathed
chamber.
We. PERKS Of Ocean. by moonlight hath slept.
Another Grecian myth declares amber to
be the tears which the Heliades wept over
their brother Phaeton when Jove's thunder
bolt put a sudden end to his mad career
with the chariot Of the sun. So deeply did
the Heliades mourn that the gods took pity
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-03-17
WHAT HAS BECOME OF
" THE GALLANT MANI

WRITTEN FOR II SUNDAY REPUBLIC.
The girl had Just come from the circu.
lating library. whittier she had been to get
a book. The girls eyes were bright and
there was such a refreshing air of youth
about her that you would not for a moment
suspect her of being anything of a cynic.
Indeed. even now l am certain she is not
inclined to cynicism. but is just honestly
frank.
The girl put her book down on the table
of the ~sitting-room. and sank into n chair.
with a half sigh. as she u%npinned her hat.
The title of the book / knew, and its con-
tents. too. 1t was Just such a story as a girl
dotes on. It was about brave knights and
gracious women. the knightly men doing
deeds that were brave, and that showed
their strength. while the women cheered
and allowed them to kiss the tips of their
fingers as a reward.
I. Mother" said The Girl. when you
were young weren't the men more gallant
than they are now?"
The little mother looked up from her sew
ing, rather surprised at The Girls question.
"What do you mean, dear?"
.'ohit said Ths Girl. weren't men more
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-03-17

| from the back to the side, for years
The idea Of piling the trimming on the
top Of the hat is new. and since 1t has
been found to be effective there is no,
the least doubt concerning its future
popularity.
Ostrich feathers are used on spring
! hats. but only singly. There is no
grouping Of tips. The one long feather,
fastened with a large gold buckle, sug-
gests the Gainsborough paintings, and
this is what it is intended to do.
Lace scarfs or wells are made very
artistic use of in trimming hats, es-
pecially those Of black taffeta. A wide
hat that flares a little at one side has
the side space underneath filled in with
there Is a close mass Of flowers. The
lace wells the flowers and is brought
around to the back where the ends are
Topped and fastened with q buckle, the
finished ends Of the veil falling a bit
over the rim Of the hat. This hat is
wonderfully becoming and suitable for
wear with both plain and drcssy frocks.
There are the biggest of flowers in use
in the newest millinery. There are
mammoth peoples, chrysanthemums,
carnations, cabbage roses, hydrangeas
and a%zaleaS, and chouX Of gauZe, chiffon
and rumpled lisse that are very flower
like in appearance. The big flowers are
used on Frenchy little hats Of satin
braid, Milan or chip. There are hats
with the crowns covered entirely of
leaves, the balance Of the trimming
being of folded draperies Of Malines,
net, chiffon or tulle. The draped hat, or
toque, is worn exactly as IL original
girl describes it. ION the bias" 1t Is
placed OF the head with n perfect slant,
but the side tilt is filled in closely with
flowers, so the hat dces not seem to be
as much tilted as 1t is.
A big, white straw hat with black
velvet ribbons and big yellow chrysan-
thcmums is just the thing to go fetch
insly with the lovely batiste gowns that
will be worn so much when warmer
weather is at hard.
Gold dots are still in vogue and occur.
frequently in the new millinery. Hats
for dressy occasions are lavishly draped
with white or black, or family tinted
chiffons and tulle spotted with gold. A
hat made all of gray muslin puckered
over n wire frame has the brim draped
with gray tulle, upon which is ap-
pliQued gold medallions and cream-tint-
ed lace. Black net embroidered with
gold threads is to be found on some of
the richest hats. yelling pink roses. The
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-03-17
Spring and Summer Millinery. Sketched in Paris Shops

Special Correspondence Of Tho Sunday Republic.
Paris, March 1.-Spring millinery In
Paris is. on exhibition, and there are
dreams" of hats and 'loves" Of bon.
nets enough to keep one occupied all
day, should one start out on a tour Of In
spection.
Many of the hats are picturesque. Old
paintings have been carefully studied
and have supplied ideas which the
clever milliners have worked over beau.
tifully.
There are so many flowers used that
the milliner's window might be mistaken
for that of the florist. Roses, exQuisitely
natural-looking roses, are punched and
massed, or used singly, on hats with
charming effect. In fact, on the fiat
hats flowers, especially roses, are used
to give the height usually supplied by
a crown. One Of my sketches shows n
very stylish hat Of the plaque shape,
the crown trimming Of red roses. This
style Of trimming is certainly a change
from anything that we have hitherto
had. The trimming Of hats has been
shifted about from front to back, and
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-03-17
This Is the Proper Tilt for the Spring Hat
81 Old Traditions Concerning Amber.

upon them. and turned them into poplar
trees on the banks Of the River Eidanus,
which Is supposed to have been the Po
The real origin Of amber was quite UNI
known to the ancients. hence the nnmsruus
superstitions concerning this suh0eancs,
which was believed by many people to b
endued with both life and soul. and to DOS.
sess marvellous powers Of magic Probably
this idea arose from the ~well-known cleo
trical properties Of amber. which Aristotle
terms Celtic tin"
In the Middle Ages drinking vessels war
often made Of amber. as there was q tradi-
ton that It was an infe llible charm against
poison. and would turn pale II anything IN
furious to health were poured into Il b
Turks believed 1t to be q protection agR4nst
the Ill effects of the constant use Of to-
bacco, which was the original reason for itD
being used for the mouthpieces Of ptpaL
Maidens believed in It as . talixman that
would not only preserve the wearsrs bsGufy
but grant her those charms which shs
most earnestly desired. Pieces Of ambsR
containing the bodies of insects guoh a
a fly. or perchanee a beetle o . grasshop.
per. were supposed to DO parttoaaxtZ
lucky"
Amber was also supposed to b q w0fsA
ton against the powers Of witchcrsd InN
Scotland. necklaces Of Lammas-bsadA
threaded with red silk. were at one ttms
in great request. as. according to an 81
couplet:
Lammas' beads and red thread
Keep the witches at their speed
In other countries amber necklaces were
worn as q protection against all maladies
Of the throat. A square piece Of amber
with a hole drilled through It used e hsa
very common talisman In the East IN or
der to make the charm perfectly sfneotual
1t was considered necessary to pass through
the hole a hair taken from q donksy's tail
The Shahs Of Persia ave long possessed
a circle Of amber which Is supposed to p9oe
serve the royal wearer from all perils oe
assassination. Tradition states that this Oh.
clet fell from. heaven In the days - Ma
homet.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-03-17
Odds and Ends Of Things Fashionable.

I stylish LAiglon coat, extremely smart and
elegant. 1t has a loose front and back. with
three circular shoulder capes, wide bell
| sleeves and flare collar, revers and turned.
back cuffs.
L'Aiglon collars appear upon garments
| of all kinds, and to still further emphasize
the vogue, We have the novelty Aiglor
| girdles and buckles. These are elastic belts
fixe or six inches wide. with immense oval
buckles of red, dark blue or black leather
embossed with gold eagles and crests.
Nearly every gown Of spring will have a
yoke. This may be merely an indicated
one. but usually 1t is made of material of a
contrasting kind and is set in the waist
under the shoulder trimming and over the
vest-a vertical yoke. It is the exception to
see a gown that is not fitted with one.
The newest sleeves have very long over
sleeves. scarcely showing the undersleeves;
but they are slashed at the elbow SO as to
let the undersleeves Of lace or Of nous
seine de sole peep out there.
Wash silks are to the fore again in the
list of warm weather fabrics in great va
riety. both for waists and gowns. but the
India and China silks in colors bid fair to
be outrivaled very little by the satin fou-
lards.
One of the most stylish silk muslins is in
a shade of ecru with medium large polka
dots of dark-blue or black scattered over
1t. This is especially pretty over white
silk.
Among the new tucked materials for
waists, vests and yokes are the white silks
tucked in groups, with a lowered stripe in
colored silks and gold thread between.
Many Of the new foulards are cut with
the circular skirt fitting the hips plainly.
with inverted plaits at the center Of the
back.
A ~favorite decoration at tho present mo-
ment for taffeta blouses is embroidered
spots in gold or silver thread.
Spring wraps are to mean more Of capes
than we had this winter. yet coats will not
be lacking.
The long. simple underskirt, with narrow
rufies. is the smartest thing possible for
summer gowns.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-03-17

I notion of covering bright flowers with :
transparent stuff is n very good one
Particularly in the white and very light
colOred hats is this effective. The pref
ty, blossoms Of various sorts peeping out
from folds Of lace or silk gauze look
very dainty.
Next in Importance to the hats are the
s~hirtwaists. Womankind hardly dared
to ask what the fashion In blouses was
to be for fear there would come the an
swer that the shirtwaist was to be put
aside, for fashion is not always willing
to allow us to keep to even the best Of
models.
The new shirtwaist Is a simple little
thing, In the main, though there are ex-
ceptions to the rule, and some very
elaborate ones, in the way Of trimmings,
are to be found. The prevailing style
is a simple blouse without yoke, and
the sleeve a small Bishop, so cut that
there is just a trifle of fullness at the
shoulder, non down the length Of the
sleeve until the wrist Is reached, when
there are just enough gathers for grace
fulness.
White shirtwaists will be, truly, the
rage. These are in linens, lawns and
embroidered swisseS. Some are run
with the finest of tucks in groups, the
embroidered ones, of course, being made
up plain so that the pattern will not be
broken. Dotted swisses are going to
have a decided run.
Plain-colored shirtwaists will be con
sidcred smarter than those Of striped
black and white and white and colors
are more up-to-date than stripes, though
the latter will be used. Any sort of
stuff with a lace stripe seems to be &C
ceptable for the shirtwaist-
There is about an equal division in
sleeves, the regulation shirtsleeve being
used about as much as the Bishop. The
Bishop sleeve finishes with n stiffened
cuff and closes with buttons just like
the shirt-sleeve cuff. The shirt-sleeve
cuff cuts of square and the Bishop
sleeve cuff laps over with Il little point
as u finish.
l have referred to the batiste gowns
that will shortly be in evidence. This
silky cotton material in many instances
is embroidered as deliberately as the
handsomest of silks and it goes without
saying that such gowns will be quite |
expensive. but as they are considered
even smarter than silken stuffs one will !
invest in Il batiste gown readily enough. |
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-03-17
One Picturesque Hat Has a Wide Curtain of Lace.

that the influence Of old tradition somewhat
hampers"
For example. in the days when there
were gallant knights and DANES as gentle
as those who trip through the pages OF
fiction. there were no hurrying street-cars
or swift elevators to catch. Women. in
those days, were only met BY men In their
drawing-rooms or in bathrooms. Maybe we
gallant knight and 'ladye faire' would
nave had just such trials as We have now
had the gallant knight and lady made a
hasty scramble for a street car at the end
of a very busy day. To be honest-though
1 would not offer one feathers weigh in
defense Of the u%ngallant ma
ture has not undergone a very great change
since the days when "~knighthood was In
flower" Social conditions have. however.
I am certain that gallantry is not a lost
art. 1t is a delightful art. indeed, and for
fear that one day 1t may entirely pass
away I would sugges that every woman
who approves Of gallantry-and where
dwells the woman who does ~not?-encour-
age g%allantry whenever and wherever she
has a chance. The girl with brothers might
begin at home. The mother Of boys must
certainly begin at homo or she Is neglect
ing one of her duties and may really make
it necessary to establish the school that the
bright girl has suggested.
Occasionally. very occasionally. now ono
hears a man spoken Of as "a gentleman
of the old school," Immediately this brings
to your mind the likeness Of a man who
shows a Difference toward women. There
might be . revival Of this ''old school,"
through proper encouragement. and 1t
might even be improved by an infusion of
new ideas, ideas that have sprung into
being with new social conditions.
MARGARET HANNIa.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-03-17

polite to women a long time ago than
they are now?" Go a girl a mothers youth
is always a long time ago)
The little mother smiled quietly. well,
child" she said. your father was a very
courteous gentleman, and you know that he
still is"
Then the little mother rocked placidly
back and forth in her low sewing-chair.
This was rather a vague answer to The
Girls question, but 1t may have meant more
TO her than one woul fancy, for she adj
mires her father ardently. and he Is really
the pattern by which she would have all
other men made.
The Girl picked up her book. curled deeper
into her chair by the fire, and bent closer
and closer to its pages as the daylight died
in the room.
The Girls quest in fiction for a gallant
man reminds me Of a little packet Of let
tiers that have come from other girls who
wonder II gallantry is a lost art. One girl
says that the gallant man no longer exists,
and suggests that a school be opened by
club women in which boys may be trained
to grow to be courteous and considerable
men,
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-03-17

silks. so it may be safely predicted to last
the summer.
insertions in black or cream lace grow
wider and more ornate. and in summer
gowns the fashion Of cutting away the ma
terial and leaving the insertions transparent
will be very general. Ecru insertion lace,
three inches wide. arranged in this transpar-
ent fashion over a bright mauve lining. is
very effective in a teagown OF black satin;
and a black blouse with an amplitude of
two-inch black insertion is very smart with
the lace transparent and showing tho lining
of white satin.
In England the 1eweled chain has nearly
taken the place Of the usual brooch as a
gift from the bridegroom to the brides
maids. 1t may be as elaborate as his purse
affords. though pearls in some sort are de-
sired above rubies or anything else in the
way Of precious stones. Tho bridesmaids
wear them at the ceremony to support the
ermine muffs which are 80 popular now. or
to carry some trinket appropriate for the
occasion. In extension Of the mum mode
and by way Of illustrating. too. the flower
fashion at a recent London wedding, the
bridesmaids wore gowns from white faille
Franchise. carried NUTS of ermine which
had nosegays fatty pinned against one side
Of white violets with steamers OF wide
white satin ribbon.
White cloth suits trimmed with gold will
be worn at the Joyous Eastertide. A beauti-
full LAiglon suit Of white broadcloth has
the skirt in yoke effect with pin tucks.
around the back and sides and down the
center a single inverted box plat. Around
the skirt there Is al intricate design in
cross %strappings on stitched white peau de
sole and following the lower line of the de-
sign a gold bullion braid. A short Jacket.
with q round yoke strapped deliberately
with peau dc sole edged with gold. and
flare sleeves finished with like strappings.
The large square revers arc of white peau
de sole. hand embroidered in fancy colored
chenille. The Jacket opens in front, and is
deeply slashed at the sides. over a waist
coat Of white broad-tail. bordered with an
applique Of fine Persian embroidery on
gold.
The strapped Aiglon collar fastens with
one gold ball button. and beneath 1t is a
stock of white guipure. II the weather Is
cold at Easter with this suit will be worn a
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-03-17
One Bright Girl Says That He
No Longer Exists. and Suggests
That a School of Department Be
Opened for Boys.

my dear GIRL" maybe I shall write in
acknowledgment, there is a chool Of de-
pertinent for every boy. provided he has a
wise mother. and this is in the nursery.
If it is not established there, alack and alasI
, 1 am afraid it would do little or no good to
establish 1t later and elsewhere.
you define the word. gentleman very
well. Yes, a gentleman is a man Of gentle
manners. whether he Is of gentle birth or
not. The definition may be different in other
lands. but in America this simple one here
mentioned answers fully. Thackeray sang
thus concerning g~entlemanliness:
Come wealth or want, come good or Ill.
Let young and old accept their part,
And bow before the awful Will,
And bear IT with contented heart;
Who misses or who wins the prize.
Go lose or conquer as you can:
But II you fail or II you rise,
Be each. pray God. a gentleman.
A little glimpse into a nursery school Of
department was afforded me the other day
on a street car Chat special spot from
which the greater number of walls are now
coming regarding the evident lack of gal
lantry on the part Of modern man), when q
daintily dressed woman and a sturdy boy
Of . or 10 played interesting partA
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-03-17

The simpler batistes are run with strips
Of narrow lace or trimmed with stitched
bands Of the same material, or linen.
Cotton gowns, and others, too, are
made with elbow sleeves and Open-frOnt
blOuses to show the white muslin
guimpes that will be worm beneath
them. The white underwaists are
daintily tucked and trimmed with en-
broidery and the sleeves are made full
at the wrist. There are few summer
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-03-17

A woman poor in appearance and most
stability dressed came into the crowded
car and stood in the aisle. For a moment
the dainty woman watched the boy beside
her to see what he would do. Finally she
touched him on his little REFER sleeve. and
said: My son. you see there is a lady
standing
Quickly the %youngster scrambled to his
feet. and lifted his cap.
I noticed then that he watched for their
home street. reached over and rang the
bell, left the car ahead Of his dainty mother
and lifted up his hand to help her from
the steps.
1 fancy no better school of department,
gallantry or what you will. can be estab-
lished than that one which belongs to a
home.
The next letter that I shall probably an
swer assures me that linen think nothing
nowadays Of smoking where women are,
they remain seated in public places when
women are standing and never think Of
taking OF their hats in elevators"
These offenses may be as numerous as
my correspondent assures me they are, but
I should hate to condemn all those who
have committed them. without knowing the
circumstances. There is, my dear GIRL" I
shall say in answering this letter. such
a thing as OVERRIDING gallantry. 1 fancy
from the tone Of your letter that your daily
life brings you in contact with many men
outside your home. The dignifed and self
respecting young woman who must come
and go every day in the business world
would prefer that her presence be taken
as rather a matter Of fact and that no great
and pronounced. Difference be shown her by
the men she meets purely in q business
way. But this u . broad and liberal vtsW
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-03-17

Here Il q new way Of arranging a sleeve.
It IL q welcome novelty to-day, after several
months Of puflngs and drapings and droop-
ting cuffs. This one, too. carries out the
dropping effect. but on severe lines that
make It especially appropriate to tailored
Huwns, and most becoming to an arm too
plump for b~oufanteries. The straight and
close upper sleeve descends about half
way between elbow and wrist. widens a
little, but not enough to take away from Its
~straightnees Of line, and is slashed up the In
side as high as the elbow. this slashing bor-
dered with q turned-back rever fatty
trimmed with braid or buttons or whatnot.
This slashing allows It to fall away from
tho undersleeve. which is tight and very
long, is OF a different material, and at pres
ent is finished with a wide band of fur
about the hand. On a cloth gown of two
shades OF one color, this may be used with
very good effect the rever Of white satin
with black velvet bands and gold buttons,
tho oute,sleeve. perhaps, of dark gray. the
inner OF light gray. the wristband of chin
ohilla. Tho slight medieval air this has may
be carried farther on the gown by slashing
the skirt open In front over a founced and
fur-trimIned petticoat Of the lighter cloth.
Tho tucked or pleated skirts as now worn.
and as designed for summer dresses, are a
very satisfactory compromise between the
Killed skirts of other days and the very fiat
habit effect SO extremely trying to every fig
ure. Formerly the pleats were of an equal
width from the top of the skirt to the bot
tom. The new models show the pleats stitch
ed down a portion of their length. still pre-
serving the clinging effects about the hips.
but gradually expanding from there TO the
skirt-hem. Slightly draped skirts have also
appeared among new models from the other
side. but the drapery is arranged in such q
manner that the natural curves of the figure
are not lost in its folds.
Exquisite gowns of black lace are now
shown with Marquise or medallion designs.
filled in with that species of lattice work Pc
culiar to the period of Louis XIV. These
openings are sometimes backed with white
lace, or the robe worn over q white slip
has a charming effect. The shaped %flounce,
both graduated and OF equal depth all round,
appears on lace and net robes, on embroid-
cred lisse, and on the made robes in soft