Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1901-10-12

III III We feel inclined 10 pTolouhu-
Vi N est thankfulness that our
w. feet are at last upon Gebei-
Terek, the rock that holds the strong
est fortress of the world. But alasl In
course Of our globe.trottlng we are
often compelled to abandon long-cher-
ished ideas, some Of which were laborl-
eusly drilled into us at school, and
others picked UP early along the jour
ney Of life. For examples In compat-
Ing notes on ship-board about Gibral-
tar II was found that fully half the
passengers believed the famous rock
To be an island situated exactly where
the Atlantic and Mediterranean meet
while most Of the other half thought
Il a nromontory extending into the sea
from the northwest corner of Africa.
Your correspondent, who fancles she
has Travelled enough 10 know some geo.
graphy, was equally certain that Glib
raltar extends into the straits at
their nArrOwest point between Spain
and Africa. And all Of us were mis-
taken. The famous rock is q continual
ton OF the Spanish mainland, pro-
Atlantic and the Mediterranean at the
very point Of the thirty-six mile pas
sage. The nsrrowest point Is atTarlfa,
fifteen miles to the westward, where,
Europe and Africa are only nine miles
apart. II was from this place, by the
way So long held by Barbary pirates,
who demanded heavy toll from every
passing vessel That our modern word,
tariff was derived, as applied to
rates OF duties on exports and imports
In the Spanish language the word Is
yet rendered tarifa, and the grim old
castle from which the pirates enforced
their demands may today be seen, In
tolerable repair.
Another disappointment to travelNs
approaching from the Atlantic, In that
Gibraltar Is hardly visible on entering
the Straits, and Is not viewed 20 adj
vantage until the steamer has rounded
a point and entered the bay Of AZ
geciras. But there Is no mislaking il
when once you see T.! Had you been
sailing at hazard, sound asleep for a
month with no idea what part OF the
world you were in and suddenly aWak- Il
ened In front Of the great rock, one |
glance would be sufficient TO recognize
Gibraltar, because there is nothing like
Il on the globe. Yet all your precOn-
ceiyed notions of Gibraltar, formed
from descriptions read and pictures
seen, fail far short Of the reality, and
as you study the stupendous rock Il
appears TO grow and grow This pride
of England IL often compared 70 a
couchant lion, guarding the waterway
TO the Orient, From some points OF
view the contour Of the king Of beasts
Is almost perfect--head and shoulders
erect and facing Spain, tail and body
crouohing lower and turned toward
Africa. At other angles Of vision IL
conjures up ideas Of a malevolent
sphinx; and centuries ago, on account
OF some gruesome tradition, the Span
ish peasants christened II El CuerpO,
"the corpse On three sdes--north.
east and south-the rock towers sky
ward, fourteen hundred feet, so nearly
perpendicular as TO be utterly unsala-
bic by man or beast. while at It's base
the sea roars and dasheS, ningng spray
to tremendous heights above Europa
Point On the western side II slopes
gently down to the waters edge where
Gibraltar city Is nestled, with its popu-
lation OF thirty-two thousand. or there
abouts, including the British gar
rison Of six thousand soldiers.
The rock itself Is perhaps three miles
long by a quarter OF a mile wide; and
away down below the narrow neck Of
land which connects It with Spain is
known as Neutral Ground" which
none are permitted 10 cross. You may
drive TO II from Gibraltar town ana |
get out Of your carriage and walk to
the path, wen worn by the Spanish pa
troll; but the soldiers who guard Ii |
with gun on shoulder will not hesitate |
about taking a life, n necessary 10 pre- |
vent the putting Of an alien foot upon |
II. We have heard OF female visitors 40 |
imbued with Mother Ewes curiosity |
that they have offered the guard sums |
Of money for the privilege Of printing |
lust one dainty toe or heel on that for
hidden path; but though the poor sol |
diers OF Spain are VIGOROUSLY shabby |
and iil-fed / am glad to say that the |
bride IL always sternly rejected. This |
fiat, sandy neutral space, less than
two miles Ions. has been rendered UNI
assailable by any land force, through |
English engineering contrivances, by |
winch, IN the twlnkling Of an eye. the |
strip could be blown 60 powder ana |
scattered In the sea. On either edge Of
H. the boundaries OF British and Span,
ish dominions are marked by parallel
lines OF sentry boxes. In the middle Is an
English race-course and drill ground: |
and hard by are Jewish and Christian
gravoyards, pathetic In thor meanness
and tangled neglect Arab dead are
never Inferred here. but are returned 10
their native dust on the African side OF
The straits.
While anchored IN front OF Gibraltar,
you are reconciled for the first time in
20 the tedious formalitles that
must be gone through at every fot.
IGN port before passengers are per-
nltted 70 land because hours OF wait.
M are not long enough 20 study these
ielightful surroundings. The coasts Oh
'ither hand are extremely wild and
'ugged. mountains coming down 90
meet the sen, their bases whitened by
turf and worn into innumerable cav.
rms and grottos. Long lines OF dark,
'aw-tooth cliffs mark the Spanish
cast; and on the other side OF the mai.
'ow waterway loom the rocky ridges
lf Barbary and Morocco. In the south
YARD distance YOU see dim shapes. Ike
monks lifting their snowy
owls 10 the skv. They> are the Atlas
Mountains. and the singular thing
bont them Il that they have compare.
lively no foothills or ascending grades,
.ach colossal height standing alone.
ieparate cone OF notified rock, devoid
II vegetation. Above all the rest. one
remendous height stands boldly out,
Ike the Abbot OF the snow-cowled
riars. II is Mons Abyla. celebrated H.
'lassic history as one Of the Pillars
u Hercules but now desecrated by
he title Of Apes Hill" An old Moor
sh tradition declares that on this
particular mountain Of Africa were
'orn the first monkeys that yentured
icross the straits. Descendants Of the /
'ame tribe still lnhablt the rocky fast
ltsses Of Gibraltar They have the /
distinction Of being the only wild apes
n the whole OF Europe, and are care
July protected by law, Directly oppb-
lite Abyla. on the Spanish side, Calne. 1
he highest point OF Gibraltar, Is IN.
ither legendary pillar" formed by |
hercules when on his way 20 Gades he
ore these rocks asunder 10 force a pas
Iage for himself. To the anclents. you /
know, these Pillars Of Hercules marked /
he boundary Of the nayigable world, ali /
q the westward being mystery and /
darkness. Nayigators Of the oldel, /
-