The times., 1901-06-23

tions of the First Empire, which are stiil
all the rage; lastly. it seems that for the
moment the wind blows toward the sew
enteenth century and the epoch OF Louis
Kill
a visit to the races or other public
places where Partisan society congre-
gates will convince anyone of the fact.
It will be seen that habit Jackets with
long tails have taken the place of three
quarter nantles (Which have been rele-
gated to the domain of the Magasins de
Nouveautes). and il is the same with
boleros, which are still in high favor.
Both of these garments continue to di-
vide the honors. The bolero preserves its
smart, coquettish appearance, but with
out pretension. The large mantle is still
elaborate and sumptuous. The habit with
long basques presents a new and very
sweeping line TO be shown at open-air
gatherings. This fully accounts for the
warm welcome that it has received.
Are we about to continue in the same
direction? The period presents irresisti-
bic fascinations In it's fashions, both mas
culine and feminine, for the rivalry be-
tween the sexes was at its highest point,
and if in the present day this attire is
modernized. the general idea is borrowed
from our ancestors. The same habits
were worn by men and women. and were
most elaborately trimmed, whereas wo-
mems dresses were longer behind, and
were prolonged into train by means of
broad pleats.
Superb felt hats with plumes were also
worn by men, and II required all the male
energy of the mobiles of the Fronde to re-
duce them TO more modest proportions.
The 'MouEpuetairs" hat. trimmed with
handsome ostrich feathers, seems also
destined 10 come into fashion / have
seen several of these turned up high at
the side and ornamented with a precious
Jewel, which seems to overcast their re-
turn.
For some time past I have remarked
the preference shown for large, handsome
lace OF lawn collars instead of the exag-
gerated neck trimmings Thus, formerly,
the voluminous stiffened ruffies were fol-
lowed by collars and collarettes of fine
linen, edged with Venice point lace, which
were worn alike over mems cuirasses and
over the bare shoulders Of the women on
whom Catherine de Medicis had previous
ly imposed low-neclxed dresses.
1t is from the women alone that the
style Of wearing the hair has been bor-
rowed. Quite a short time ago French
women made use of their hair to adorn
them. For centuries the odious dark-col-
ored hood had hidden its charm Conse-
quently the progress in this new fashion
of pleasing was rapid and the variations
were numerous.
For the moment It looks as though the
fashion Of frizzed hair, with puffs over the
temples and hiding the ears, leaving only
the lobe exposed so as to show pearl
shaped earrings. were about TO be adopt
escape from a broad low chignon This
appears to point to a near period when
the palmy days of the 'coinure a l'es-
pagnoIe' will return
1t is, however. clear that if fashion sets
in in that direction. soft, light, and supple
materials viii not harmonize with the Sc
we're lines of that style Brocades, reps,
and heavy damasks viii come back into
favor. But who can predict the tenden-
cies of fashion, so fantastic in all its
whims?
Let me, nevertheless, draw some other
parallels which, though possibly due TO
chance, are none the less amusing. Take,
for instance, the light mask of silk or
lace. fitted with spectacles, which up-to-
date -'chauffeuses'' have adopted for au-
tomobIle rides. Under Louis XIII the
mask, which dated from Henri II. was re-
vived and became a perfect "furor." II
was usually made of black satin,
lined with white satin, and could
be doubled up like a pocketbook.
Apart from the color, is not this exactly
the same thing as the mask used today
for automobiIiAs? But it is no longer
adopted for the purpose of Intriguing or
plotting Nevertheless, II adds a strange
interest to the rapid apparition and equal
Il
''chaufeuse
Is II generally known that the fashion
of pretty girdles from which depend
chains supporting knickknacks dates back
90 Louis XIII? In those days there were
Eirdies known as "demi-cent." which
reached fabulous prices. From them hung
gold chains. gold handled scissors. and
gold rimned purses like those which are
much in favor today, and small, round
mirrors, for which women have displayed
such rare fidelity. although their form has
been slightly varied. Gauntlets came into
existence at the same time as lapeis and
fancy sleeves. and ] have already seen
come specimens which viii become gen
eral II wrists persist in showing them
selves, owing to the widening of the
sleeves
Can anyone doubt that silk ribbons
were the charming results of the arbi-
trary edicts of which kings were so lavish,
such as the decree which prohibited the