New-York tribune., 1901-05-26
RIVAL OF THE BOLERO.
PARISIANS GIVE THEIR STAMP OF AP-
PROVAL To A TRIG LITTLE JACKET
OF MASCULINE SEVERITY.

There is apparently increasing demand for
both long Jackets and waistcoats. The half long
silk or elaborate cloth coat has been accept
ed as the most exclusive garment shown this
spring partly because the ready made places have
evidently been afraid TO carry it. And in cloth
Jackets too, a perceptible change has taken place,
one that will undoubtedly count for more in the au
tumn than it does to-day. II is certainly time to
give the boero a worthy rival
These Jackets a considerable sprinkling of which
one sees at every smart gathering, made with
masculine severity. the backs fitted and fronts
loose and open short, plain vest There is
nothing new or arbitrary in the cut lines At
the moment light cloth and homespun
terials for the suit with rich old time bro
cade used as vest. An economical substitute for
the brocade is pleated and stitched silk match
the stitched bands used on the costume 1t must
be remembered that two-thirds of the tailored
gowns seen are trimmed with stitched silk bands.
Later on. the tailors promise waistcoats Of linen
and pique.
There is also change be noted in the shape
OF the bolero. One comparatively few OF
these garments cut to define the figure. a
shape that has appeared with the princess skirt
to be with any high girdle belt has fitted
back. with the bottom held under the belt. The
fronts are loose and open 10 show the girdle be-
meath, although they are cut long enough TO
it partly. Altogether, the princess skirt is far
more graceful worn with this style Of boero than
with the shorter garments with which il appeared
earlier in the season.
FAVORITE COAT
It is difficult 10 refrain from discussing the elab-
crate half long coats which Parisians have so
eagerly taken up. They are such pretty graceful
garments and made in such variety Of styles that
there is always something new to say of them The
material for a charming garment Of this genre is a
heavy silk in a deep russet shade The garment
is stitched in clusters Of fine peats is knee long
and suggests without defining the figure. It closes
on the side with four pattes in the silk and
fastened with gold buttons. the upper patte at
the choker and the lower the waist Under
these pattes is scarf Of brownish lace starts
at the choker ana falls in two ends to the bot
tom OF the garment The same lace makes large
the elbows. are loose and flowing. and have trife
OF gold embroidery at the bottom. The choker is
also slightly embroidered.
Something novel in the way of skirt has just
tached one TO another with an entredeIx of en-
broidery, the whole falling free over the founda-
tion. The upper part of the skirt is fitted yoke.
bottom. giving a most graceful fare This idea is
little more sheer and silky than alpaca, but
PINK SILK which shows prettily through the black
lace that trims the gown The black lace is used
The bodice has trimming Of black lace down the
chiffon. The chiffon makes close shirred under
sleeves with lines Of narrow black velvet between
the outside of the arm. The loose alpaca sleeves
are trimmed with lace embroidery at the edges.
For a slender figure nothing is prettier than
shirred princess gown. and this. contrary to the
usual princess gown. is easily made The stuff is
shirred 10 form deep corselet and again 10 head
the fiounce. There may be small shirred yoke II
likes. and close sleeves shirred TO the elbows
and ending in founce. A dainty gown of pale
blue nuns yelling IS made in this way, and is
trimmed with bows of narrow black ribbon down
side
TAFFETA GOWNS OF BLACK
Among the dressy gowns of black taffeta is one
chic example trimmed with embroidered cretonne
and French blue velvet ribbon. The velvet ribbon
running up the sides well toward the back. Bre-
feles OF the ribbon start under rosettes the
bust, pass the shoulders. held by tiny re-
settes at the waist line and end at the bottom Of
the little coat tails, this same line being continued
by the trimming on the skirt The cretonne of blue
and yellow, embroidered with gold is used 10
form collar and open under the short side
OF the bolero. The front and girdle are OF folds
q the blue SILK to match the velvet; the puffed un-
cersleeves are Of the same, with twist of ribbon
IN the centre, making a small puff near the hand
ana much larger one TO the elbow The flowing
elbow sleeves are trimmed with cretonne flowers ar
choker. ''s 'ii 'he
thin gray wool has an odd trimming of bands