The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1901-01-12

on small mat which has been woven
by her. Placed in front and a little 10
the right of her is a gourd or bowl, fill
ed with fresh water, into which she con-
tinually dips her fingers to keep the
straw moistened. At her left is a bunch
Of straws, tied together loosely with a
string of some soft fiber all ready to sup
ply her braid as she weaves. These
straws have been stripped finely to re-
CURED size with a needle.
In starting the strand she holds the
braided or finished portion toward her
and the straw in the opposite direction.
AS the straws keep moving rapidly
through the fingers and the braid grows
in length 1t falls into the lap until it is
a fathom long, when 1t is tied together
with a soft string, and the weaving is
then continued until fathom after faith
ON is made. After the braid has become
a fathom long the native woman holds it
under her knee in order to keep it firm
and even. When the braid is completed
it is sewn into whatever shape is desired.
TAKES A SKILLED HAND.
Then there is another way to make
the popular native hats, commonly worn
by Hawaiians and haoles alike upon the
streets, and which the tourists love so
well to don. II is made in the same
manner as the Panama hat. over a
round or oval block of wood. 1t is nee
eSSdTy u iOlu the straw O1l 10 ILLS DiOCt.
while the weaving goes on, in order to
give the hat the proper shape.
The kouana, or strands, of the lie, or
straws, is commenced from the center OF
the crown, as a round table mat is
made. Additions are made until the
crown is of the right size, and then the
balance of the hat is woven with this
number of strands and no more. The
edges of the fiat crown are moistenetl
and the sides are shaped by weaving
around the block until it is nearly three
inches deep. Then more straw is added
in order to widen and spread the bottom
to make the required brim. At the bot
tom of the crown where the hat-band
should be- a fine string is run throur'
to hold the shape and size Of the hat and
to divide the crown from tue brim.
These hats are only made from the far
palm leaves of Kona, Hawaii, the COCOA
nut palm leaves, the lauhala or pandana
leaf, and the makaloa, a fine rush whcr
is used chiefly for the making Of the Nil
hau mats that are so expensive, but as
a hat it is the cheapest sold.
KoNA WOMEN NOTED WEAvERs
The fan palm hat is known as the Ko
ma hat, and is quite expensive. The WON
Ell Of Kona are noted for their skill a
hat-weaving, and whether it is the hand
some and costly fan palm or the 80
plebeian lau hala hat, it is beautifully
made.
The cocoanut, or lau niu, hat is nor
generally known as the Lahaina or Man
hat, for cocoanuts abound there and E
large hat-making industry has grown
up on the Island. Each steamer from
Lahaina brings a number of hats to thil
port and all find a ready sale. But th'
cccoanut and pandana hats are made al
over the group. Here in Honolulu a mum
Der of women are kept busy trying t.
supply the demands of the market
HATS OF PEACOCK oUILLs.
The peacock quill hat is snow white and
y
ment lands have been cared for b.
about Go foresters and 100 subordinates
and the regulations have been on tn
most scientific European model. Wit
usual Spanish laxity in administration
however, chief attention has been givel
to collecting licenses and other reve
nues.
$3.50
Composite photographs, combinin,
many pictures so as to get a type face
were brought out nearly twenty year
ago by Francis Cation, F. r. S. H
now advances the opposite idea of an
t alytical portraiture, and aims to recorc
: what is individual in the expression b!
f combining different photographs of tn,
: same face. Two portraits, for exam
) pie, show a man with normal expires
sion and when he is smiling. On plac
ing positive transparency of one pic.
; ture on negative Of the other. detail:
: common to both are obliterated and tbs
result Is that only the smile is left
The smile proves to be an act involv.