davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The age-herald., 1901-04-24
The Coffee Market.

New York. April 2s.-Coffee, spot Rio, dull; No. invoice. 6h; mild,. dull; Cor dova. sA@12h. Futures opened steadS, 5 points higher and later became heavy and weak under selling for both. which accounts for the absence of speculative support and much larger receipts than ex- pected Free offerings of spot coffee in the market met with disappointing for eign market news which helped to depress the local sentiments. Close steady. net. to 10 points lower. Total sales Ss.250 bars. May, $500; July S5.20; September s5. .soa5. .35; October, s5.a5@5.40; December, $5.so; January, s5.65; February. $5.7o: March, s5.7095.S0.
The age-herald., 1901-04-24
THE LOCAL MARKETS
Local Cotton Market.
Local Iron Market.
Local Stocks and Bonds.

IUCdI ot0CNo dHu OufIuBs Corrected Daily by Caldwell & Ward, Bankers, 2015 First Ave. Tele-
 phone 753 (See Card.)
The age-herald., 1901-04-24
Southern Railway Co. The Great Highway of Travel North East, South and West.
 Schedule in effect January 1s, 1901.
EASTBOUND.

No. 3S, Washington and Southwestern Limited" solid vestibuled train. Atlanta to Washington; Pullman sleeping car Birmingham to New York; also Pullman library observation car. Atlanta to New York. Dining car east of Atlanta.
 No. 36. "U. s. Fast Mail" carries Pull man sleeping cars Birmingham to Rfch- mond. Va. via Atlanta; also sleeper At- lanta to New York
 Dining car east of Atlanta.
The age-herald., 1901-04-24

DOUBLE DAILY SCHEDULE TO GIN CINNATI. LOUISVILLE AND
 LEXINGTON
The age-herald., 1901-04-24

No. from Macon. Albany. Columbus. opelika, Americus. etc. SEQ ?. m: No. from Savannah, Augusta, Macon. Columbus, etc. 1920 D. m.
 Elegant through sleepers between nir- mineham, Columbus. Macon and savan- nah on Nos. and 1.
 Connection Is made at Savannah with the fast freight and luxurious passenger steamships of the Savannah Line from and to New York. Boston and the East. For more detailed information, beauti- fully illustrated matter, write or apply te soLON JACOBS. Commercial Agent W. D. HAAfMET. Travelling Passenger
 Agent, 1921 First Avenua
 JACK W. JOHNSON. Union Ticket
 Agent, Birmingham. Ala
 !. O HALLE. General Passeneer Aren't. D. H. HINToN.. Traffic Aanagsr. ea~
 yannah. Ga
The age-herald., 1901-04-24
Metal Market.

New York. April 2s.-Tin nominal. $500; Lake copper. s17oo; lead steady. un- changed; spelter unchanged, $s.s5@4.o %; pig Iron warrants unchanged.
The age-herald., 1901-04-24

Fl S Cannon, Third Vice-President and General Manager. Washington. D. c. 8. H. Hardwick. G. P. A., Washington. D. c.
 c. A. Benscoter, A. e. P. A.. Chattanoo. ga. Tenn. Ala
The age-herald., 1901-04-24

Only . lIpfIted number of maps left SubscrIbers shouid avail themselves of this opportunity to secure . house. hold, office and sohooI room necessity.
The age-herald., 1901-04-24
L. C k-North.

'No. 2. Fast Mall, N. o.lIi ;5s an 'No. {. Fast Mall, No. s:12 pr No 8, Decatur Accom-. .I1o:0o an No. 10. M't'g'ry Accom.I 7:3o pn
 0oufh-
The age-herald., 1901-04-24

'No. 1. Fast Mall. cin.., s:25 am s:ss am
 sNo 3, Fast Mail. Gin. 3:4b pml 4:05 pm No. to Montgomery. 5:6 am
Evening star., 1901-05-11
MADLY EXTRAVAGANT
If You Keep Up With All That
Fashion 0rdains
STYLISH EFFECTS COST MONEY
Extra Need|ework Has Run Up
Dressmaking Prices.
SOME ETTY MODELS
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.

Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
NEW YORK, May ., 1901.
There is no escape from the confession
that this is proving a madly eXtravagant
season. Women who have rich husbands
suffer bad dreams O. nights anticipating
the size of the milliners' and dry goods
merchants quarterly bills, now very short
ly due. Women who have hitherto enjoyed
a reputation for dressing we'll on very little
money are wearing deep lines of anxiety in
their heretofore S3tn-snooth foreheads,
while those who regard a dime as respect
fully as If 1t were "a dollar are just doing
over their old duds Joining the Don't
Worry Club and talking Inexpensive En-
ersOnfan philosophy.
From a bargain counter view of the sit
uation this is distinctly cheap year. but
women who have been down in the thick
Of the shopping battle have quite another
tale to tell. The complaint is that it strains
ones purse to the Bankruptcy point to keep
pace with the fashion requirements. Skirts
have got to be hung these days on silk
foundations, ana according to the rCle of
the mode it takes all of twelve or fifteen
yards to make the proper sort of founda-
ton, whereas in the days of lined skirts it
required nine at most.
Another serious grievance is the custom
that now prevails in favor of lavish deco
ration A well-made dress calls, as rule,
for lace, velvet, Ribbon chiffon, panne, en-
broidery, fringe, jeweled ornaments and
braid. all in addition to the findings that
are almost double in number A simple
gown today is questionable, and because
of the extravasant style OF decoration the
dressmakers have jumped up s. all around
in their prices
Very reasonably the slaves of the needle
excuse themselves on the plea that it re-
qu1res twice as many expert hands to make
gown now as formerly. The whimsical
tuckings, shirrings, beading, lace. incrus-
tations, stitchngs, hemsttching, fringing,
herringbonlng etc, that one single frock
Will require must be done by hand, and
| handwork costs. The dressmaker who used
to charge $l5 for Il dress now asks $50, and
insists she has no bigger profits than for
merly.
Case I'm Point.
Now, who's to blame for this situation?
The fashion, of course, and the women
themselves who encourage and follow the
lead of the twentieth century juggernaut
To prove the point we are making let us
cite before the bar of investigation four
Evening star., 1901-05-11

made passing call in order to get an idea
as to what | had better select for my sum
mer wardrobe There We're few people in
at that hour. so we sat down in one of the
little ante rooms. and she showed me some
OF the designs from which their customers
had already ordered gowns. l dare say
monsieur the proprietor might not have
liked their being shown to any one. but |
shlhk the great modistes are much too sell
nsh about these thingS-too selfish for nv
convenience. certainly
Inc first gown that | looked at was
beauty in fine. rich amethyst striped or
edhdIe- Ihe waist was a clOSe-fitting one,
ornameEted with high corstlet of lace
ana crossed with three narrow white rib
bcnS. The skirt boaSted a pointed tahlipr
and was heavily trimmed with SPRAYS of
Iace put on applique. A wide band bor-
dered with ruchinR of chiffon formed a
rich. ornamental border The skirt beneath
was Idld IN deep box plaitS. and where il
touched the floor was set with two rows of
the chiffon ruChlng. The sleeves We're COM
parativelr simple-tight fitting to the wrist
where the inevitable pIffcd underslpevt
showed from under fiaring band of the
lace. The par%Soi that accompanied the
gowr-for everything must harmouize-was
covered with soft. white chiffon and lace
but underneath it was lined with striped
material 70 match the gown. This is one
of the novelties of the summer. Another
frock- which was much trimmed with SPOT
ted silk, was limited TO a suushade lined
with spotted silk.
In Pink and White.
Here is a frock Of wash material Is it
not2' ] exclaimed as a novel yet pretty,
pink gown arrested my attention
''Oh. YES. that Is a cambric 1t is for
little girl just o,tt of her convent" nodded
MathiIde. 1t is of pink and cream striped
material Is not that tapering founce
Evening star., 1901-05-11
Short Plaid Jackets.

Plaid silk jackets are a new departure IN
ut-of-door wraps. They should only be
attempted by the very tall and slender, but
on the right sort of a woman they produce
a very stunning effect. This is an English
model and 1t Is intended to be carried out
in black and white taffeta. Marrow black
velvet ribbon Is very cleverly used here
and there to overcome the sQuareness Of
the plaid, especially around the waist line.
The upper sleeve is made very ample. but
this is atoned for by the close-ftting lace
undersleeves. The double collar and re-
vers are also of ecru all-over lace. and
they are prettily edged with the narrow
velvet The hat to go with this blouse is
Of black tafteta, with a handsome rhine
stone buckle and two gray ostrich tips.
The front Is Of pearl gray chiffon.
Evening star., 1901-05-11
THE WAY TO IRON SHIRTS.
The Tug of War il when the Bosom
H. Reached.

Written for The Evening star.
For ironing fold the shirt straight down
the middle of the back and iron the body
smooth, taking care to move the iron
mainly straight with the warp. Next fold
a sleeve fiat along the sloped seam, and
iron it upon both sides. Iron first through
the middle, then take hold Of the wrist
band or shoulder with the left hand and
hold taut TIL the iron goes quite to the
join. Open the wristband. lay # flat, and
iron hard upon the wrong side, then turn
upon the right side. Next iron yoke and
neckband. Then comes the tug Of war
otnerwise ironing the bosom.
First fasten the neckband properly. next
slip the bosom board inside the shirt and
spread the bosom smooth upon 1t, pressing
it out simultaneously with both hands.
With a thin clean cloth wet the V hole
linen surface lightly with weak raw starch,
Rub it in very well, and II any place feels
sticky wipe ii of with a cloth dipped IN
tepid water. Have the iron hot enough TO
yellow dry cloth if left TO stand on It ten
seconds. Begin at the bottom Of he bosom
and iron straight toward the neck, up the
middle, holding the neckband in the left
hand, and pulling hard against the iron,
Here as much depends on the left hand as
the right-the kIack lies mainly in know
ing how to pull properly.
II the bosom wrinkles or forms one Of
the warps known to laundresSes as ''cat-
faces wet the place with clear water,
stretch it smooth. and iron over again. Rub
the iron over the white wax, also in the
salt tray to insure a perfectly smooth sur
face. If the starch is right-properly made
and applied-it will not stick TO the face.
But If yellowy crust forms upon the IRON
tip scratch It off with a blunt knife and be
sure to WAX and salt-polsh the iron again
before settling It on the shirt.
When the whole bosom is smooth and
nearly dry, take one Of the polishing irons,
not quite hot as the others, rub the
face Of II with either polishing wax or
white soap and press the bosom hard all
over. bearing hardest upon the rounded
iron point. Iron and polish cuffs on fam
mel covered board. Wet them also with
raw starch, or more properly starch-water,
press first upon the wrong side, with
very hot iron, and turn upon the right side
only when nearly dry.
Evening star., 1901-05-11

iliaries of the summer costumes. Some of
them, made to fit over the shoulders are
brought in a point almost to the waist
line. A handsome effect can be achieved
by the combination of white chiffon or
mOusselne with cream-colored Iaces A
knot of the white material draped across
one side of the collar gives a couuettish
touch to an otherwise simple toilet Chtf-
ion collars adorned with insertions of lace
or lace fronts lined with bands of ribbon
velvet are acceptable combinations for
wear with the most filmy stuffs.
Thin Fabrics Tailored.
The thinnest of materials are now care
fully tailored. Last year the tailored fou-
lard gown was so satisfactory that it Is
probable no fabric will escape this sea-
son. Strappings show some notifications
Broad stole effects are still experiments
Strappings in several pieces of cut-out de
signs are applied with a good deal of
Skill to seams.
outdoor gown. Its beauty is emphasized
by underSip of silk or satin | am
sure the tail, willowy English woman for
whom one of the designs in Mathilde's
collection was intended could not but look
well in the combination of deep founces
appliques of lace and the Louis XIII collar
that formed its chief ornaments A wide
sash drawn through a buckle of dull gold
fell in long. sweeping lines In the back
The outfit of the fashionable dog is now
increased by the use of travelling coats and
caps Doggie, when he accompanies his
mistress on her travels, is placed in a spe-
CIallv constructed basket supplied with a
window ana lined with some soft cloth. An
apparatus that looks not unlike a camera Is
provided for the smaller pets, and it is
noticeable that the canine is much more
satisfied when he can see out than when
Evening star., 1901-05-11

charming, new, and. according to the pre-
vailing mode, extremely simple. spring
guilty Of costing it's purchaser a price that
can only be written in three figures.
1t is a slavish reproduction Of Paris
model. and it Is one of the new corded
foulards In deep apricot tone. with vivid
red carnations having gray green leaves
damasked on it. At intervals among the
flowers cream lace medallions are set, and
the foulard Is cut away beneath In order to
afford glimpses OF a silvery green taneta
petticoat. which serves as foundation.
The foot OF the skirt is garnished with
dark red velvet bebe ribbon. lace and silver
green taffeta embroidered in tiny dark RED
silk dots. The waist has Moorish lace
onto the little foulard body, and the front
Evening star., 1901-05-11

ed border of gray and blue silk lace,
through which a thread Of silver ran. The
skirt is made in three scantily gathered
founces that bring the gay border out
attractively at their edges. The border
again adorns the neck. fronts. bottom edge
and sleeves Of the vofle bolero, which is
worn upon shirt Of blue crepe de chine
dotted in black
A rival at last Of the ubiquitous and wea-
risome turquoise blue has finally appeared
and ts making great strides toward su-
prepuacy, This is the refreshing and love-
~ hyaointh blue which in muslin cloths
and transparent goods is blossomtns out
every day in great increase. Hyacinth b
blue with cream, with gray, with sand brown
lar combinationss A sweetly pretty and
hyacinthine frock 10 the pictured tamise
Evening star., 1901-05-11

their independence, Wore more wells than
ever, to the great delight of the makers
and sellers of the flmy material.
Perhaps the most fashionable thing at
the moment is the Nell Gwynn veil, which
is Of plain ground, with spot on each
side of the check. suggesting that the
wearer had placed a mOuche, or beauty
spot, on her face like the famous lady of
the court of King Charles, who has for the
moment overrun the affections of the Eng
lish playgOer. This spot may be either
circular or of some other shape, and it
may be large on one side and small on
the other. Whatever the size or shape,
however, the effect is the same, for it
heightens the complexion and gives bright
ness to the eye in very marked manner.
Another popular design is known as the
teardrop. This consists of a large chenille
drop. with a smaller one Immediately un-
derneath. Another exceedingly popular
design is a black net with velvet spots.
These spots are white on the one side of
the veil and black on the other, that by
reversing the veil the wearer can show
either white spots or black at her pleas
ure, the effect of the black being height
ened by the fact that the white spot is a
when the veil is worn with the black
spots forward.
The Empress of Russia although her
favorite veil is a black one, very frequent
ly In the warm weather uses gray veil
of such a delicate color as to be almost
white. This is spotted with gray
The Grand Duchess Serge of Russia and
Princess Henry of Prussia nearly always
wear white wells with black spots, while
the Queen of Roumania Is followed by
many of the ladies of her court In going
in for the latest novelties whatever they
may be.
Most of the royal family of England, IN
Guiding Princess Christian, Princess Louise
duchess of ArgylD and Princess Henry Of
Battenberg, always wear the neatest of
neat wells, with black for their color.
Evening star., 1901-05-11

which appears alongside the bordered wolfe
above mentioned. Pipings of cream white
diversity the intense blueness of the white
figured goods and vestlets Of cream
panne adorn the bodice that opens over a
full cream front of liberty tissue.
In place of the straight and parallel
lines of stitching that have for so long
been used to ornament decorative bands
there is appearing a new ornamental motif
This is quilted bands stitched in squares
double checks. stars or the diamond pat
tern, in imitation of the old style quilting
designs. To give the pUffed effect that the
regularly stuffed quilt shows, thin liberty
silk is laid on taffeta surface and when
stitched down it puffs up between the
lines drawn so taut by the machine and
gives the required quilted effect. Some
times thin crepe de chine is used for this
purpose and usually in black over a light
taffeta surface. MARY DEAN.
Evening star., 1901-05-11

PARIS, April -, 1901.
This is to be a great year for light gowns
of the washable sort. Mathilde has
sured me Of the fact. and in consequence l
am cOngratUlating myself. for much can
be done with a cheap gown under those
circumstances. Evening gowns are so ex-
pensivc this year that | must dispense with
as many dresses as possible, but still if
one gets out at all there must be three or
four grand toilets.
1 had stopped at my favorite modiste's
to get an idea for the new blouse which l
mean to have made by the little dress
maker in the quarter. She is very clever
with her fingers, but has not the originality
of a Rue de la Paix artist Consequently 1
supply ideas. l looked over a few Of the
designs in the great shop. and when Ma
thilde. the first assistant came in 1 asked
her what she thought would be worn this
summer. 1 explained that 1 had merely
Evening star., 1901-05-11
EaSh{eRnhIS Wells,

The popularity of face wells is as great
as ever, if, indeed, they have not a firmer
hold on the affections of the feminine
portion of the public than they ever had
before. This is the more remarkable
because it was not very long ago
that doctors We're crying out about the
evil effects which women wrought to their
sight by the custom of veil wearing. The
women, however, only smiled and, to show
Evening star., 1901-05-11
A STRENGTHENED
Vinol Promptly Over
comes Weakness.
DEBILITY OFTEN PRE-
CEDES COMPLETE
COLLAPSE.
We Want Every One to
Know How to Get
Strong.
OUR EINOL IS A STRENGTH
CREATOR.

The sadest sight on earth is +. .broken-dcw1 man
woman.
We such people every day right here in our
city.
II is pltlful to a man that should be In his
prime dragging himself through life detected, dis.
couraged and broken-down, due to some premature
weakness. 1t does not make any difference whether
this weakness is the result OF dissipation, indis-
Greet living or disease: IT can be overcome
We have known Of many very serious cases or
debility quickly overcome by Vlnol
Vinol is scientific rebuilder and strength
creator 1t contains the active curative principles
of Cod-Liver OIL In a highly concentrated form.
The benefit that can be derived from the rso OF
these properties is so wen known that there is no
need for 10 enter into that subject.
We could quote many instances where Vinol has
done good; as an example, here is coming
from Jane S. Fenfren. prominent member Of the
w. O. T. u, and resident Of Suncook, y. II.
She writes:
81 down; In bed from May TO
March. Was nervous and sickly that every one
thought was in a most precarious condition. Ny
weight reduced 100 pounds / was advised
TO take Vinol. which did. and am very much
better and able to be about again. As a re-
builder and a strength giver nothing equal It.
Vinol is a God d-blessing 10 anybody"
Because Ninol is delicious, and be,
cause it does contain these mucli-
sought-after medicinal properties we
indorse it, and we unhesitatingly pro-
claim that it is better than any prepa-
ration of cod-liver oil or tonic re-
builder we have ever had in our
store.
HENRY EVANS,
922=924 r Street.
Evening star., 1901-05-11

A dream in organdie was the frock which
l was told was for garden-party wear in
the island across the channel. The daugh-
ter of an earl is to be it's owner. OF white
stuff sprayed with blue, the three f1ounces
that formed two-thirds of the length of the
skirt were carefully shaped to produce the
appearance of an inverted lily cup. The
upper fOunCe and the waist We're one, for,
with all its frils the gown was of the
princess brand. the waist line shaped by
applications of narrow tucks. The deep,
pointed collar of lace fell over a narrow
shoulder foUnce of the organdie. From
the point of the collar band of blue satin
ribbon extended around the body to form
a knot at the waist line in the back. The
elbow sleeves We're plated and finished off
in deep flOunccs.
Handsome lace collars are valuable aux
Evening star., 1901-05-11

closely shut in a box or basket Travel
ing coats for dogs are of smooth, plain
cloth, provided with little handkerchief
pocket, for doggie has his set of mouchoirs
just like his mistress.
DO.sie's Dentist.
An animal dentist is one of the latest ad-
ditions TO the queer population of Paris.
This one attends strictly to the teeth Of
pet dogs, filling them with gold when they
begin to show decay as the result of an
Evening star., 1901-05-11
Wide Bands of Straw for Ribbons.
,om the Millinery Trade Review.

From the Millinery Trade Review.
Broad bands of straw are used for trim
ming hats instead of ribbons, and will
prove very convenient for country and sea-
side wear. Some Of these bands are made
Of narrow, plain chip braids Of different
colors or shaded from one tint or shade to
another, but the shading need not run
from edge to edge in regular progression.
A nacre-gray chip hat Is trimmed with a
twisted drapery Of straw bands two inches
wide, showing half q dozen shades of
pearly gray and as many OF lilac and vio-
let. Two siate-oolored couteaux are insert
ed in the drapery.
Evening star., 1901-05-11
New Wrinkles.

A new kind Of gold and silver lace Is
used for headgear. but IT needs . great
deal OF softening. Most people care for
neither gold nor silver near the face.
Either is too hard unless softened by flow.
ers or quantities of some ethereal fabric,
Evening star., 1901-05-11
Gorgeous With Lace,

Something similar in effect is produced in
the second little gown, which is an en-
broidered muslin. the needle worked fiounce
| of which is adjusted to the skirt by deep
vandykes of lace. The fluff Of these
fiounces, whether of silk. muslin or lace is
secured by Ella abOrate support from beneath
Slanky ruftle is not to be tolerated for
the next six months, and in the shops they
sell all ready made the most admira BILE
founCe supporters. A deep specially
starched book muslin ruffie is the corner
stone, or the framework. upon which count
less little chiffon frills shower out one over
the other. For more expensive gowns the
flOunce supporter is of rich stiff taffeta in
crusted with minute pinked taffeta frflls
that alternate with flutes of lace or chiffon.
BOrdered VoiIes.
Beautiful to behold and to wear are the
bordered voiles. They are newcomers, but
they are none the less bold and prompt in
securing proper recognition. The vole it
self is any color that may please you and
both edges of every yard are finished not
by a plain, neat selvage, but a ribbon of
gold or silver and a line of stlken oriental
embroidery, inside the ribbon, or, much
more artistically and incidentally much
more eXpensiVely, the border Will be of
lace, cream coored with a gilt beading
beyond.
Just how these bordered voiles can be
made up is suggested in a sketch made of
one that was silver gray in tint and boast