New-York tribune., 1901-07-21

&H""Ss IuCId' graphic and spirited in naTra-
i've Sir Martin Conway is a veteran traveller
and mountain climber whose books are certain
OF welcome He is quite at his best in this
record OF his journeys in the Bolivian Andes and
his ascents OF Mount Illimani and Mount Sorata.
That he did not fully attain the summit of
Sorata was due only to the unlucky weather
which forbade the exploit for another year. In
the intervals of these ascents he made many
careful observations of industrial and CONNER
cial possibilities in Bolivia and accumulated in
formation Of much value. Sir Martin took with
him from Europe Maquignaz and Pellissier. two
Of the bravest and most skful of the Alpine
guides They were thoroughly satisfactory com
panions in a climb, and mountaineering seemed
TO be them pursuit which deadened interest
in everything else This lack of interest Con-
way tells Us, is normal characteristic of Alpine
guides, his Himalayan companion, Zurbriggen,
being the only one he has ever come across who
always delightful in novel sights, impress
sions and information of all sorts. In the Bo-
livian towns, strange a they We're to them,
Maquignaz and Pellissier were bored to death,
cared 10 see nothing, and were apt TO spend their
time lying on their beds.
Much OF the excitement of these climbing ex-
petitions came from the opposition of the Ind
ians, who, though nominaIly Christianized, still
cling to their traditions of mountain gods and
demons, and resented the invasion of their
stronghOlds by the foreigners. When bad
weather followed. threatening the crops in the
valleys, this invasion was supposed TO be re-
sponsibe for il, and the explorers were several
times in danger OF personal violence. II was
with difficulty that they could persuade Indian
packbearers TO accompany them for short dis
tances in their ascents. The explorers therefore
had TO carry Instruments, tents. sleeping bags
and provisions when really hard climbing began
Illimani; going up Sorata they tried sledge.
Sir rrfn ead like a wise n
eral; there was no stinting in comforts. The
little tents and the Arctic fur bags meant
warmth and sound refreshing sleep in a waste
Of ice and snow; and plenty Of hot Irish stew
and other timed foods maintained the climbers
strength. Even the lower slopes OF the Bo- |
Lvian Andes it is bitterly cold, and it is almost
impossible TO avoid frostbite in the feet The !
Alpine guides suffered in this way. but Conway
had provided himself with effectual defence: |
was fortunate enough to find in Norway a |
pair u great hair stockings OF immense thickness,
almost thick ones little finger, such as are
WIN by ski runners IL the cold winter Of the /!
north. These stockings, with a leather covering,
suffice 20 keep the feet warm in very great cold;
but Al high attitudes, owing 70 the diminished |
vitality from which all men must suffer the |
body is far less able TO resist cold than ii is /
at level in Arctic winters. Not satisfied !
therefore with these stockings. wore within |
them pair Of Shetland wool stockings and /
thin pair Of socks besides. 1t was not, there |
fore surprising that enormous boots neces-
saIy 70 cover feet thus enveloped.
They were boots. massive. gigantic, which
reused anazenent and awe in all who beheId /
them, and they were terribly weghty Of course /
TO their wearer; but he became accustomed 10 ,
this and rejoiced in the protection they gave
The ascent of Illirnani grew difficult and dan
geroUs in the final stages. when steps had 10 be /
cut in the ice wall. by one at more than /
twenty thousand feet above the sea. All suf-
fered severely from the diminished atmospheric |
pressure, their strength rapidly ebbing The |
lifting Of each foot in its turn says the author
was tragic effort. Presently everything be- |
came unreal and dreamlike. l fell into semi |
comatOse condition. but plodded all the same. |
Twice I came to myself with a start; had been !
walking in something very like sleep. One
apparent summit succeeded by another, but
the true one came a last. Monsieur, vous la
gloire, said Maquignaz he moved aside for
me TO stand first upon the highest point Of snow.
The altitude was 200 feet" Part Of the
descent was agonizIngly toilsome that the
leader thought his heart would burst His
method was 10 take twelve short steps and then !
halt repeating this regularly with deep
Breathing betweenwhiIes 10 recover the power
of motion" Next morning the three were al
most rent asunder by a violent whoopng- cough; !
and this returned whenever after occasions
they approached the 10000 feet line Though