New-York tribune., 1901-02-17
NO ORIGINALITY IN DRESS.
THE FAILURE OF PARTISAN FIRM
THAT TURNED OFT 40 DUPLICATE
GOWNS-EVOLUTION OF THE
SCENT BOTTLE.
Paris Fehruarr s

II is often interesting TO note that fashion
launched by some dressmaker Will fan at the mo-
ment 10 obtain any recognition. but that some
months or perhaps years, later II will sud
denly become the rage. An illustration o. this
point Is furnished by the vogue for twisted ropes
os velvet or silk style which those who follow
Paris fashions easily trace 10 its source About
three years ago a fashionable tailor, who. strange
20 say, has since failed and gone of business.
introduced these twisted ropes velvet in the way
of ornamental frogs elaborate coats The fashion
attained no particular vogue the time hut to-day
Il Is considered the last touch street costume
Undersleeves had much the same history Quite
year before they were advocated by the promi-
nent Paris couturiers dressmaker OF exclusive
but very small clientele introduced them among
her customers. Any who makes modes a study
knows the natural evolution OF style into an
other, and often bright mind. not necessarily
the prominent In the business, will leap slight
~ ahead Of the rest.
II IS perhaps to he questioned IL the most ad-
vanoed and progressive designers Of feminine modes
are the most successful. The great ma jority Of
women are conservative; u they wish outdress
their sisters they like do II the lines.
This idea Is possibly encouraged by masculine views
or the subject. Few can view with equanimity
a wife or sister dressed unlike other women, no
matter how we'll she may look. Any radical change
in dress makes man suspicious OF its good style,
matter how becoming II is.
THE FAULT OF THE GOWN.
dress
she. in nine cases out Of ten. what she calls
'the cachet OF the place. on A. Apropos OF this q
well known man dressmaker tells a good story os
a celebrated society beauty who has none too much
money 10 spend on her wardrobe She presented
herself 10 him morning and said that IN spite
OF his reputation she had hesitated in coming 20
him for toilettes lest ne might gown her as ne did
many OF her friends, in manner admirable and
hawless IN It's way, hut suited her style.
For herself she wished gown entirely personal.
Msison" The dressmaker assured her that ne
woule make her gown copied from no model and
vas vas zone y was a dream a poem; according 70
pouted found trivial faults and finally declined IN.
gown the plea that If paid such price
the name OF its expensive and fashionable maker %
The dressmaker SAYS that this incident IS simply
n rare instanoes women prefer 20 follow the ne
truth in this statement Judging from the number
of women who order from model gowns. quite
Duplicated a dozen or hundred times Indeed,
oressmakeT who studies me lnaiylauatlIg oi @ eacn
from French women that ono would expect, ac-
young women who started in business in a fashion
able quarter a few years ago ,-,-,- ,
one member of n had been forewonan In one OF the
while other had been a fashion designer. one of
a family who had followed the same calling since
shSy would show no medel gown and ma, each
especially for the client ordering A. and dupli-
cate of a gown should ever leave the place.
The scheme got considera hle recame. and the
young hrm hogan business under most favorable
auspices Their gowns were really beautiful. their
clients admitted that but after the first season.
their business fell on They still got deal Of ad-
vertisine, for they made gowns for well known
actresses and society beauties. hut this kind OF
clientele was exactly what the firm had not
sought. They have nov apparently concluded 90 do
business IN the old way. which suits the public ana
In which certainly there Is the greatest profit They
make dozen fifteen models the first OF every
season. and their customers order on the lines %
these models. After the gowns once designed
the forewoman does most Of the work. The artistic
member OF the firm is now attending 10 the order
department IN place OF driving herself 20 the verge
or nervous prOstration designing gown for every
customer who calls There Is really n good deal Of
the history Of dressmakng wrapped up in this
one experience.
JUST BEFORE LENT.
The season just before Lent Is marked always in
France by large number Of halls costumes" or
the smaller 'sautertes costumes" which are per-
hsps bet,sr suited affair which demands in
formality the essence Of its success Sometimes
the hostess asks that the gowns shall belong 20 a
trait painters In spite ~ the well known national
prejudice against England, English modes or rather
English manners. are always popular IN the chic