New-York tribune., 1901-09-22
IN THE FRENCH SHOPS.
EXAGGERATED STRAIGHT FRONT COR
SETS ARE NO LONGER GOOD FORM
SHORT SKIRTS FOR THE STREET.

Paris. September 13.
II seems remarkable that the furriers who must
prepare their models far In advance, able
make them perfectly agree with the models
n silks and cloths turned out by the tailors.
There a time when fur garment
like anything eise-cut for comfort, warmth and
with eye 10 many doing overs" Now 1t is
garment elaborate. coquettish. illustrative
of the season in which Il is made any gown
from the hands Of artist So. after all. there
is little say about furs that has already
been said about outside garments in general.
Broadtai seems to be the popular fur for short
Jackets and brcadtail. trimmed with ermine, is
particularly chic" There boleros be seen.
and the furriers deny that these passing out
OF fashion. but bolero would hardly be advised
for this seasons purchase. Clever little jackets
short fne Sides with a point in front and
coattaiis behind, the best choice. These
may be made with a high Drectoire collar and
with little undercuts Of ermne. One particularly
pretty Jacket Of broadtsil is trimmed with lace
like pattern done I'm narrow white silk braid An
other has buttons and little puffed undersieeyes
OF sable
PARIS WAKING Up.
Paris has begun to wake up a trihe. The theatres
opening and the shopping district is particu-
larly animated. The days cool. too and a
good many autumn gowns of light woods and cloth
TO be the street. A pretty navy blue
wool noted yesterday trimmed with fine red
and black braid used an embroidery. This In
the form of bands. down the sides
OF the skirt. front and back and about the bottom.
Below the trimming the hem Of the skirt laid
81 a cluster of tueks. The blouse tucked 0he
clusters separated by lines Of the irimning), and
opened little both sides 10 show glimpse
or a silk underblonse laced with black ribbon
and small black buttons. The sleeves were pleatei
10 below the elbows. and slashed show red puff
with iacing and buttons trimming it, The hat
a rough blue felt, with spiashes of white in the
felt and trimmed with a blue and white
scarf that draped in odd way behind, TO
hang down the hair
As simple this hat was. ii seems 10 be the
model that the milliners are working The felts
twlne running through them, with
hairy surfaces that sometimes coored in part.
A feature Of the trimming is that of il
tumble off side the hair.
In a certain comfortable tearoom that is popu-
lar with French women a group of young
matrons, evidently up TO town shopping
curson. They all snartly but simply dressed
is the custom with fashionable French women
when the street. One had a gray wool
checked in large blocks and trimmed with tucked
gray silk. used the skirt I'm bands and the
bodice in the form of a little bolero with a lace
collar Another black wool. made in the
form OF princess. draped about the waist There
some beautiful embroidery made OF appqued
silk pieces. and 4 fine fat braid trimmed the bot
tom Of the skirt. while huge neck ruche OF white
tuile. with large black spots on II, covered the
shoulders. The toquet was of hairy white felt
trimmed with black quilts and twist of velvet.
PLEATED SKIRTS FIND FAVOR.
A gown OF toile de lInde entirely pleated
the skirt peated up and down and the deep circu-
lar nounce laid IN circular pleats. The blouse full
over the belt, pleated from square yoke OF
white silk embroidered with black braid and tiny
back buttons The belt and little undersleeves
matched the yoke. This Indian cloth. which is evil
IDENTIFY TO De fashionable. in q pretty tan
shade, which black and white trimming gives
an excellent effect
One may see the most beautiful gowns at the
asessmakers gowns for visiting, receptions din
ners and balls. Imagine gown OF point d'Alencon
trimmed with ermne, the lace draped in some
wonderful way, like q stole perhaps and trimmed
with Applaued pieces OF the fur put or with silver
embroidery Another regal gown is OF white panne
made IN princess form and trimmed with Rreaf
panels OF Renaissance lace and silver Embroidery
Both OF these gowns are without sleeves as are
charming little dinner gown has a skirt q,
pink crepe trimmed with a lace nonnce in the
lace are inserted little medallions of white silk
painted with roses. These placed In the lace
forming the ho0nce For the bodice is q liffIe
Pompadour basque OF lowered silk trimmed with
= drapery OF lace about the dAcolletaee and elbow
sleeves - "
Very odd IS pale yellow crepe trimmed with :.
coarse, reddish brown lace and touches OF brig nj
REQ velvet The lace, used a yoke the skirt
and ss shaped piece heading the bounce has
k9ofe Of red velvet In the meshes The founce Is
death and finished with narrow border
The blouse is closed side with fan OF
lAce and twist Of red velvet. and the lace forms