The Meeker herald., 1901-06-29
NEW ART JEwELRY.
Curious and Very Costly Pieces
Made by Master Wo.kmen.
Revival of Wonderful Metal Work Of
Renaissance TImes POpulartseA
by the Paris Expeditions
NJ. Features of Work.

A new fad in jewelry has slowly
been making it's way to favor in recent
years, and the Paris exposition
brought it into something Ike popu-
larity. Fortunately. the expense of
the work and the fact that it apFeals
to the artistic taste more than tothe
canons Of elegance generally current
promises to keep the fashion from be-
coming fatally common, says the New
York Sun.
The Salique jcwelry is perhaps the
finest example of this new work,
which is. after all, old. for 1t works
back to the wonderful metal work of
renaissance times and makes the pre-
cious metals merely incidental. The
exhibition of Rene Salique's work at
the exposition was n revelation to the
host who had known nothing about
him.
This work has been eagerly sought
for in Europe for years past. but his
prices are fabulous and he does not
sell to dealers. but WORKS only On spe-
cial orders, which II may he his whim
to accept; 80, up to the Tlrsrnt lime,
his jewels have been obtained ,n!y by
royal personages or other iilatrious
patrons, and their number is not very
great.
CGstellani, in Rome, has had a repu-
tation for work of the same general
order as Salique's, although he has
achieved nothing to equal the SaliIue
Jewels, ard crowd of lesser li'Sits
have been following the same path
with more or less success.
OF course, the central idea of this
jewelry is beauty and exclusiveness Of
design. The masters of 'te craft, like
Salique, often make the Jewel, what
ever it may be, with direct reference
to the appearance and personality OF
tfr woman who is to wear it. md this
opens UP an endless vista of suggestive
ana symbolic possibility.
Then again the jewel may be made
merely to carry out n conception in the
mind OF the artist, without ref
erence to the future owner. Rare
stones are introduced wherever the
design requires their color. but very
often the se,ni-precious stones an
swer the artistic requirements better
than the more costly jewels md are
used by preference, without thought
of comparative cost.
Ia patron is willing to put crowns
rnrsom OF rubic5 into an order and
saIique thinks pink topaz or lapis
ami accords better with his design.
the buyer doesn't get the rubies.
Moonstones are particular favorites
swi,,, Salique and with many Of his
followers, because they lend them
selves to symbolism and suggestion
without detracting from the effect Of
the metal work and design. One Of
the most remarkable pieces CT this
art iewelry ever turned out was .
comb in design OF bats flying through
the filtered light OF moonstones.
American designers are taking up
rhe art jewel idea. and new era of
extravaganza in jewelry is evidently
at hand. Gorgeous tiaras and ston-
ochers OF diamonds will not do now.
Ny lady must have specially designed
and eccentric jcwelry of which there
is no duplicate, which bears the sig
NbtuIG Va iiitkStVh
Several of the New York jewellers
brought home quantities of signed
Jewels in unusual designs, and have
sold them rapidly. One ring for n
man, labeled 1.-THE Heart of the Oak"
and signed by famous French work
man, was particularly good speci-
men. although it hadn't hint Of n
precious stone nbout it, The ring was
wrought in semnlance of bark, and
bore n strange. satyrlike head. that
at first glance looked merely like the
gnarlcd knot on n limb of tree.
One Chicago woman has taken up
this art jewel craft with immense sue
cess, and has orders so far in advance
that she says it will he impossible for
her to promise anything before 1903,