Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1901-08-17
ETTING about thIs oorner d

are absent. Being here, We must see
something Of this so-called regency
though in WEAKNESS Of the flesh we are
often inclined 10 think that the game
is hardly worth the candle, Points OF
interest in the immediate vicinity OF the
capital are the ruins OF ancient Cath
age, part OF which date back eight hun
dred and nfty-two years before the
birth OF Christ; the famous gold mines
OF Bon Hadma; the Valley Of Tulah,
III Guettar, with It's strange subter-
ranean waters: the rocky summit OF
Diebel-Arbet; and the Holy city OF
Zaphouan. where Father Time seems to
have been standing stll 80 many CEN
turtles. Roman remains OF greatest
interest 10 the antiquarian, are scat"
tered everywhere. common as black
berry brambles in the country lanes OF
New England. Numberless excursions
of more or less length may be made on
horseback: but they should be UNDER
taken only by people IN excellent health
who are nerve and skin proof against
all the singing things that creep ana
ny. and who can rough IT. 20 any eN-
tent, even 20 dining on sand and gong
without water Ike a camel. Horses
aud mules may always be hired. at the
average price Of four francs day ana
local guides will be supplied by the
Kaids OF the various districts. A Kald,
by the way corresponds to the rural
Alcald of Spanish-America, or the VII
lage mayor of the United states. lie i
like the little girl who had the little curl
that hung straight down on her fore
head. and when he Is very good in
deed Is a perfect god-send to wander
ers In these benighted regions. Letters
Of introduction are valuable In all for
elgn countries, and In Tunis are abso-
iutely Indispensable. Fortunately. they
are easily obtained, through the various
consulates, on ones passport alone II
you intend TO see anything Of this re-
gency outside the walls Of its capital,
be sure TO provide yourself with letters
from your consul In Tunis to every
Kaid whose district YOU intend 10 in
wade. 1t often happens that some
Smart Aleck" OF an Anglo-Saxon
comes along, who insists, In his sub4
lime concet, In making explorations
without a guide. There IL no law 10
restrain him. the fool-killer having
gone out Of business. When the un-
escorted traveller comes 20 grief In the
highways or byways Of NORTHERN Afri-
ca-as he IL certain TO do, In one way
or another, through lack Of food or
proving Bedouins, OF having lost his
way In the trackless desert--the fault
Is entirely his own, though internation-
al complications may result. At the
best accommodations in this far cor
ner of the earth are Of the crudest des-
ciiption. As a rule, nothing better Is
procurable outside the cities than the
Arab gourbl; and without guide, the
foreigner generally fails Of even that
poor shelter. There Is railway.
meanderlng In apparently almless fash
lon around the coasts Of Tunls and
sending out several short branches:
but as II Is about the most uncomforta-
BILE affair the ingenuity Of man has In
vented, slower than foot-travel. and af-
ter the manner Of railways sedunusly
avoiding an the Interesting places.
my advice 70 you Is to let II severely
alone. except perhaps as a dernier res
sort In the city Of Tunis. cabs may
be had for about franc and half an
hour within the walls; and double that
price beyond them; while In some
country districts. two.horse carriages
can be hired at the average rate of
twenty francs a day.
Naturally, the objects that interest US
most are not the musty relies OF by
gone ages, but the denlzens OF today.
their homes and TO us) queer WAYS OF
living Dirty, stupid and cruel as
they are, one never tires OF the always
picturesque Arabs, who are numerical
ly the most important class of the ma
tive population. Early In the twelfth
century these people Of Arabia took
possession OF the best parts of Tunls,
driving the original inhabitants. (the
Berbers), TO their mountain Businesses.
To this day, In spite Of all changes In
the political features Of the country
they retain the habits Ideas and no
made life of the most primitive times,
and have advanced but step or two
beyond barbarism. They are stlll d.
Nided into tribes-a few Of ancient orr
gin, others OF more recent date, and
some merely an aggregation Of groups.
made by the French for the convent
ence OF the Bureau Arabe. Each tribe
Is commanded by Kald, whose duty IL
10 carry out the orders Of the French
authorities, arrest criminals and get
his pay from a certain percentage Of
the taxes he collects. He Is a sort OF
judge, besides listening 10 complaints.
redressing the aggrieved, and holding
himself responsible for the orderly
conduct OF his tribe. These Kaids are
always chosen by the French military
authorities. from the most influential
native families and while IN time Of
peace they greatly aid the new master
OF the territory. they are correspond
ingly dangerous. when lnsurrections
threaten. because every member OF a
tribe viii follow the lead OF IFS great
families. whether 10 loyalty or rebel
Hon. The tribes are again divided into
ferkats or sections. each section nd
minlstered by a sheikh. who IL under
the orders OF the Kaid. The ferhats. In
turn. are divided into douars. COMPOSED
Of the tents ~ persons who ARE nearly
related 20 one anOther-the distinction
being that the ferkat Is an artificial
group. the douar essentially a family
one The Woodworking Kaid has sew
eral lleutenants. OF Khalifas. 10 assist
him, and his judgeship Is shared by the
higher tribunal OF the Cadls-a sort ~
supreme court. whose functions are
performed under the strict surveillance
Of the French. All Arabs are nomads
20 the back bone LIVING IN tents which
they change from place 10 place as the
surrounding nasturage Is consumed
This eternal moving on" ~ not with
out its advantages Tor people 50 filthy
In their habits. Where men and ami.
mails live together. the constant pitch.
ing and striking Of their tents In new
places tends 20 prevent disease. and "a
scatter az least a portion 81 the vermir
with which they are infested II saves
the SOIL too from utter exhaustion. me
nocks and herds manurlng the ground
rs they are driven about Arabs arf
not fons',f work and like our northern
Indians. the men never engage In en-.
dustrial pursuits. They call themselves
agriculturists. the women performing
the labor. after most primitive methods
IL Is part ~ the Arab religion that m,
profession of farming must be resucct.
ed. The theft Of n pillow Is sacrllere
and the manufacture " one Is uiou'
work. Ike the carving Of a cruelty oi
the painting % a sacred picture The
female Arab IN Tunls occunies th'
same degraded position she fills I'm NJ
Mohammedan countries, among th'
rich she IL the slave OF her lords pleas
Ne r.av.~~re uFfHH ssr o. e.