The National tribune., 1901-03-28

Immeasurable unexplored mysterious
woodlands, full of wonders, horrors,
charms, silent at MONDAY, in darkness
echoing with wild voices; always wierd,
fascinating, dangerous, delightful. Man
groves ceased, as low mud-fats gave place
to frmer ground. Then the woods, dark
pine, majestic cedar, mighty ceiba, all
shapes of beauty that the palms can show,
pallid alva and ghostly upas; unnumbered
trees in whose swaying branches htfui
breezes rose and fell with a faint murmur
Of some far-beating surf.
Bands OF Rama, Poyer Cookra and
Woolwa Indians wander about this region,
either hunting or collecting forest prod
ucts. ALI these tribes are broken and in
decay. Their settlements have been
placed as far from Sambo villages as pos
sible and they kill every man or woman
who has any intimate relations with those
abominable mOngrels. None of the abb
origines were seen for several days; so,
pending such an encounter, which would
probably enable us to get guides and at
tendants for a journey inland, we sailed
or padded along through utter solitudes;
living very well, however, upon what our
guns and fshing-lines furnished. Small
game and fruit were abundant, yet the
greatest delicacy was cocoa-nut gathered
at dawn, when still cooled by the dew.
One of the boatmen would twist some
eoiled vines round tree and, getting in
the loose loop, lean back and walk up its
smooth stem without any difficulty. These
nuts were not such as one sees in the
northern latitudes, hard, woody, and taste
less; but contained rich, soft, pulp and de-
hcious milk"
Fresh palm wine, also was TO be had
at discretion; the best Of all those multi
farious fermented drinks made from
grains or fruits throughout tropical Amer
lea. 1t is obtained from the COyal species.
You fell mature tree, cut into its center
Just below the leafy top and cover this
opening with bark for four or five hours.
By that time the cavity will be full of
light straw-cOlored, frothy liquid, which,
that has been wrapped with wet grass TO
promote evaporation, speedily becomes
cool and palatable as well as wholesome.
Our night camps were generally made
at some open space by the bank. We
tied up the dory, lighted fires that gave us
a chance to shoot straight if necessary,
made up cahoon-leaf or palm-frond beds
for ourselves in shadowy spots, set
watches, relieved every three hours, and
slept in peace. 1t would have been pleas
anter TO swing hammOcks and keep no
guard, but possibilities of battle and muir
der and sudden death" were by no means
eliminated from this situation; besides
which a man who knows it never trusts
the wilderness. So day after day passed
rapidly away and naturalists like our
selves found plenty to do. Finally we met
a small party of Woolwa Indians. All were
friendly, and several spoke Spanish ac-
quired during trading trips to the coast;
thus some presents, with assurances of
unlimited meat if they would find game,
put us on excellent terms.
They had been gathering vanilla to sell;
but to the savage mind prospects of future
advantage Immediately give way when
present enjoyment can be attained; so our
fran dc
brought up their canoe, and Joined us will
ingly.
The vanilla vine grows luxuriantly on
this rich soil Of decomposed vegetable mat
ter. 1t climbs to the top of lofty trees, its
large, grape-like leaves, red and yellow
flowers, which are succeeded by clusters
OF long thin beans, appearing in Quanti-
ties within certain localities. These pods
must be picked while they have a golden
hue; after becoming dark brown their
aroma evaporates. Fermentation goes on
In the piles made for that purpose and
after 1t has reached a proper point the
beans are spread out to dry. Each one
Is carefully fattened afterwards, rubbed
with cocoa-nut oil and packed in bundles
tied up with plantain leaves, so as to
make them almost air-tight. This DONE
vanilla is ready for the market, and can al
ways be proftably disposed Of.
After supper-and of course we gave
Oui Ae" lIielus plcHls 10 thl-lOUdcCO,
such as they never smoked before, was
produced, and a grand palaver ensued
under its benign influence. Those camp
fire talks In desert places of the earth can
not be matched. Men profoundly versed
with regard to all that mere observation
can teach, ignorant of natures laws, deep
ly earnest in their wild superstitious In
terpretations of everything which threat
ems them, there tell tales concerning the
wilderness that one can hear nowhere
else.
Antonio told Us Of the Fer de Lance, for
example, but he could neither account for
this French name, nor Identify that deadly
serpent. His acquaintance with Christi
anity only helped him to swear, and the
subject melted much complicated cursing.
A Fer de Lance sometimes coiled In
grass, II hid itself among bush-tops. or
swung from boughs. Anyway, the rapid
ieshing stroke was fatal unless q man had