New-York tribune., 1901-10-20
MANY PANELS USED.
ODD EFFECTS IN TRIMMINGS THAT
GIVE VARIETY TO TAIL
ORED" GOWNS.

Paris. October p
An idea used TO relieve the monotony OF tailored"
skirts Is 10 carry the front panel and faster
II with some form of trimming, such iins Of
piping an6 a few large buttons. handsome suit
a. black wool with z curFace OF long white hairs
"a made Up with e. trimming Of green cictb- Ere
tares shspee rltes tfst finish the skirt are edSHd
with q green cord and the same cord G9 the
saee OF TIE skirt bordering the frcnt apron which
ts fastened over With four green covered tat-2ns,
placed top and bottom The blouse IS friSiIec W.e
triple collars about the shoulders, edged cach with
= green piping, and il opens 10 show vest and
yoke Of white satin covered with a lettFe C! naI-
row black velvet ribbon. TIE paTticrier wool Of
which suit IS made is popular now and il, in
deed, more I'D 10 date thsn cloth.
Large round collars Of IN.5s XIII style arg
tremely populsr, and especially eonspicRoVs on vel
Vet gowns. All handsome, expsGsiVs laces are
being wcvea now in this share Another pretty
shape Of collar is broken in the back into TWO ps-ts
hanging over each shoulder 1. collar 9' this
shape is used handsome dime: gown o: yellow
velvet. Al odd feature OF the gown Il panel of
lace inserted in tho hack OF the coraage. passing
under the belt and hanging doWn the shirt like
a sash Over the panel is istTics vera of gold
ribbon and the belt Is Of god cloth. TIE front OF
ahe corsase IS OF lace and the CHOW sleeves end
with lace pIlifs-
While sorc. form OF shoulder trimming is GoG,sh
81 need not always be ,n the shape es collar
Rather newer folds &C cloth arranged to spg-
sest HOOD the acre conventional hcbE. An
roll Of tale carried about tie shoulders ard ar
ranged in a knot ia foont This loose roll is trimmed
with twists OF marrow velvet arranged iikc Slides
or 5ewelled chains msy be used il tte saEze way.
NECK ABORNMENTs.
pretty example OF this fasllion is a black silk
vei,ed with black mousseine de sole tie thin
material embreide1c5 Witt Jets IN the form CT large
flowers The dscolleiaee Is finished ty a large
loose reli OF mcusseIs De soae passed through jet
and gold rings. Frcm ere shoulder down the front
OF the cOrsage is Ike Of jet and god butterflies.
New ideas seem 10 be launched day. Lately
there has been fancy for two materials in sleeves
and for ways Of introducing undersleeves
Puns growing interesting and IL is difficult
TO trace the historic source of some OF the designs
A blue serge dress trimmed with white and black
dotted panne has novel sleeve made in two parts
with many puffs. The pufs-there are perhaps about
eight made Of the panne-run from wrist to
shoulder. The serge makes a short Oversleeve and
a panel under the arm holds the straps that pass
the panne between the puffs. While this
sleeve sounds theatrical it seemed quite in place
part OF a modest street suit.
cloth. wool and velvet being the two fashionable
sahFies this season WOOL suits are often trimmed
color blue wool with a surface of white hairs
and embroidered with white. White cloth or panne
trimming is modish. for white trimming is sug-
gested by the large number OF stuffs having the
A good many OF the open bIouses and jackets are
made with small, vest that turns over the
sides Of the bodice. White panne. speckled with
IS also used especially ermine which looks exceed
1ngly well with a black velvet jacket.
Long. loose silk cloaks evidently to be worn
in midw1nter. for they made with extensive
fur trimming. black silk cloak has a foot deep
band OF seal about the bottom and one almost as
deep edging the wide flowing sleeves. Another long
cloak OF the same material closes with deep reyer
OF eTmine
NEW IDEAS IN SKIRTS
The two following gowns show particularly pretty
skirts. The material for the first is a tabac brown
wool with fine red thread running through IT
The skirt is made with a deep shaped founce
pleated 70 the upper part. This same lounce in
the back apparently runs up the waistne In
Two deep box pleats. giving the wide back that
seems characteristic OF Of the skirts OF the
season. The bodice consists of a short bolero
piped all about with red cloth and made with long
tabs in front A Vest OF black caracule 'blouses" a
lrihe belt OF red cloth. The reVers to the
Jacket are OF fur with piping OF red. and the
sleeves are fulled into little fur wristbands
The material for the second gown is a black wool
with white hairs scattered Irregular fashion over
the surface, trimmed with pipings of white sik
There are three panels on the skirt. n front
and narrower. down each side toward the
back These are all edged with the piping The
skirt between these panels is trimmed With two
~ shaped ruffies finished each with piping
OF white silk. The blouse IS trimmed much as the
skirt. with panels edged with a cord OF white two
in the back and IN front. coming from the neck
and ending IN points that buttonsd TO the bet
the trimming that expense and ingenuity
spared 10 devise something and striking
Flower designs made OF silk and painted muslin
and applqued 20 lace. pattern of grapes and vine
IS most effective done in this way Guipures are