The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1901-10-20


PARIS, Oct 5.-AIl Paris is now look
ing about for neat and fashionable coats.
Fortunately for myself. 1 ordered mine
from madame some time ago, leaving it
to her taste to select for me what she
thought would be both smart and becom-
ing. and yet adapted for utility wear in
accordance with the necessities of wom-
an in moderate circumstances. The coat
was sent home yesterday. 1t is delicate
shade of brown, cut straight in front, as
are almost all the winter coats-scarcely
an exception to this rule can be found
yet by a cleverly adjusted strap across
the back of the waist the coat is fitted
behind close to the figure A deep triple
shoulder collar covers the upper part of
the waist. In front the coat is double
breasted, buttoning at the left Triple
collars are a favorite device in trimming
and help to break the monotonous outline
of the long wraps. When / tried on the
garment I was glad that 1 had not re-
Voked my order as I had been tempted
to DO a couple of weeks ago, when at
another tailOr's l looked at a fetching
model coat, a veritable beauty-what is
known as a driving coat. The wrap was
made of black faced cloth. The black
was fitted into box plaits below a stitched
yoke. The collar and square revers,
which may either be worn open or cross
cd and fastened. were faced with pale
blue cloth embroidered with narrow black
and gold braid. While an extremely strik-
ing coat. the pale blue would not have
harmoniZed with some of my costumes
Not so the brown, which is in good taste
with almost any tint or shade. Thus
must they reason whom the gods have
lowered with little gold
My golf cape 1 found so useful last Win
ter that 1 have had it made over in ac-
CoTdance with this seasons peculiari-
ties. For instance, to manage one of the
deep hoods which are all the rage the
tailor had to cut out the upper part of
the cape so that he could turn the cloth
to bring the plaid upon the outside A
high. turned-over collar of cloth encir-
Giles the neck, and tabs of the plain tweed
brought down each side from the collar
form the starting points for the hood.
Three buttons further embell:sh the front.
This cloak of dark tweed is one of the
most useful wraps l own.
I have further improved my wardrobe
by the purchase of a taior-made frock,
which, 1 am assured, includes all the
new points of the up-to-date gown.
Beaver-faced cloth is the fabric used,
vest and collar contrasting with glis-
teniEg folds of plated silk. The front
of the bodice is to all intents a blouse
with a bolero. A little in front of the
back seams the lines of the bolero slope.
ard it falls below the waist, where the
cloth spreads out to form one set of
the double box plaits, constituting the
back of the skirt The result is a
most graceful sweep which in the rear is
trifle longer than usual. All the seams
are strapped ond stitched Its sleeves
are very pretty, too. The cloth is slash.
CO almost to the elbow to show the full
sleeves IF
In the cloth are modified by the use Of
crossed bands Of narrow black velvet
held down by tiny metal buttons The
only touch of frivolity is the gauzy bow
or lace and silk muslin which is held in
place by a jeweled clasp of no great
value. The use of rich buttons and Jew
eled ornaments is beginning to charac-
terize the best frocks sent out from GER
tain shops and may be counted upon to
grow to the proportions of a fad since
the ornaments are not cften very expen-
sive and do much to smarter cos
tuIne
Buttons are often used to ornament
seams down the front of the skirts.
which have of late taken on quite an
Ornamental character, the seams some
times being strapped, sometimes stitch
ed and now and then embroidered or
marked by line of heavy lace. On the
skirt of tailored frock sent out by the
maison from which mine emanated the
unique device was adopted of cutting
the cloth along the center seam in tinv
scallops, each stitched down and gar
mshed with a tiny cut silver button.
Above @-1e deep velvet ceinture upon
MS costume three more scaIlops an
peared, each smartened by tiny but
ton Over a white silk vest, the blouse
was cut out to. form a point embroid
cred In lines of silk. The usual triple
collar finished off the bodice, two sec
mons OF the collar being of cloth, with
the topmost and smallest one of velvet.
Many gowns are made with pointed
overskirts reaching a little below the
knees. Very full underskirts or plated
nounces supplement the points. Much
Sthe same effect is ACCOMPLISHED on sim
pier skirts by the use of indentad
nolnces, with their narrowest part in
the center of the front Such founces
are framed with ornamental bands of
guipure, embroidery or something of that
sort
while sleeves continue to display an
under and an upper section the undar-
sleeve is no longer necessariIy of soft
carefully draped material AS often as
uoe II Is composed of the same stuff as
me rest OF the frock. The sleeve is very
frequently double, in some cases even
triple, and flares considerably at the eI
DOW, where some sort of decoration ia
attempted, if nothing more than a band
OF viewer, a bit of lace or an adjusted
DOW OF handsome velvet ribbon.
Many more women ride in Paris than
was the custom a few years ago. AS a
result more attention is bestowed on rid
ing habits. The latest costume of that
soFt consists of double-breaSted, tight
nttlng coat, with a little basque in front
ara the sWallow-tailed effect behind. In
'front.' me coat is cut open just enough to
snow the stock, and is ornamented with
Ntlcante buttons, on which the mono
Gram of the rider is applied in silver.
Inc skirt is only moderately long and of
4 Hghter weight of cloth than the coat
Another style of habit has a semi-fit
u y coat with corners rounded off and
Tapped seams
The profusion in which velvet flowers
ere now used on millinery is a pleasant
Grange from the overloaded chapeaux of
last fall, weighed down as they were
by the corpseS of birds. The brightness
or the howers delights the eye, and in
the charming combinations in which
appear upon hats they must continue to
be popular. Some Of the shapes adopted
1of hats and toqueS seem a trifie start
ing What is known as the boat-shaped
hat is capable of taking ON y~number
of grotesqne outlines A recently eXfib-
1t d horror was of white felt, very high
at the side and. slashed open to show
tire sapphire velvet with which it was
oNerlaid The effect upon the head was
that of worthy peasant carrying home
bundle of clothes which she had laun-
deIed.
stlatness in millinery is one of the eff
1eets now striven for. Double pIateaus
are to be much worn, as also are some
OF the daring little tricorns which achiey-
ed success last winter
.elvets and fur bats, together with the
SD readlffgs4 picture ones. added to thos.
before mentioned, afford a wide assort-