New-York tribune., 1901-03-31


Abyssinia may be visited; but he is a noted and
intrepid traveller. and his experiences in reach
ing Merelik's dOminions from Alden are such as
might make the less resoIute hesitate. His
journey lasted nearly three months. taking him
from Zaila on the coast of the Gulf of Alden. to
Adds Ababa. MeneIik's capital. and back again.
His story is unconventional. full of life and good
spirits. and shows the eye of experienced OBJ
server. The secret of successful travelling.
cordinS to him. is to take few necesSaries and
as many luxuries possible. AS zaila is in
SOmaliland, he had to choose his retinue from
among the SomaIis. who have many desirable
qualities and improve acquaintance. They
possess an imperturbable good hunor and Iim-
tless readiness to lie to please their employer.
Eut they "garrulous humbugs and windbags''
an-; strangers to gratitude and courage. though
in a sudden emergency they will display plenty
of spirit Mr.. Vivian found trouble enough.
however. TO induce them TO make the daily dis
tances that he had planned The desert travel
ling is by means superior to desert travelling
in other parts of the wOrId-blinding glare. chOk-
ing dust. sitting heat. gray monotony every
where The vegetation gives the appearance OF
a strange. withered garden:
The only redeeming feature is the intoxicating
scent recalling a quintessence of clover ami
heather, with which it loads the air With
out exagseration. you come 10 reek of it in every
rag and pore
Harrar is the first real Abyssnan town 70 be
reached.
Like the ramiications Of an ant hill or rah-
bit warren those serTied walls and mazy
streets and sunbaked buildings. which are your
first impressions of this ancient and mysterious
capital Here SOmaliS, G;aIlaS Arabs.
Egyptians Danakis-tre Lord only knows how
many other fOlk-dwell together and intermarry.
!. They have even evolved distinct Ian
GuaSe Of their own. which other tOwuSrneI
have ever done before OF since
From Harrar the way was through forest.
which MI Vivian compares to English park.
Running through it. in strange contrast with
the surroundings. is Menelik's telephone line to
his capital over this line the Emperor. having
heard of his guests approach. would call up To
learn of his progress and ask why he did not
come faster-a mythical letter 10 him from
Queen Victoria being the cause of this s0licitude
Telephoring in Abyssinia is a luxury,
account of the inquisitiveness of the natives.
who throng the call offices and fill them with
excited conversation. we'll listen 70 the
messages all along the line. The Government
sets apart certain early morning hours for it's
own business. and posts soldiers every station
10 prevent eavesdropping. AS they approached
Adds Ababa. Mr.. Vivian looked incredulously
at the place pointed To him the capital; he
saw nothing but few huts and occasional
white tent. all very far from each other. and
scattered about over rough. hilly basin at
the foot of steep hiIls-wide stretches of turf
broken by deep ravines- The temporary APP
pearanCe of the town is Indication of tba
realty-it is intended to be moved Some nine
years ago Nenelik'S capital was at EntOttc. "a
couple of hours ride from Adds Ababa; il
abandOned-a town Of J0.oO0 inhabitants-be-
cause of the exhaustion of the supply of wood
for fuel The cause will soon operate y
the same end in the ease of the present capital
The Emperor is friendly toward Europeans
and especially toward EnSliShmen. and Nr
Vivian had no difficulty in securing an aJldie=ce
Emperor was sitting cane chair cross
legged. with a siCkly. barefCJtei grandson VLiy-
ing about him. There no Introduction kut
the English visitor pressed his lips TO the hand
of the Queen of Shebas descendant who ap-
peared surprised and said u n-m.'' in a tone
expressive of unexpected satisfaction He askei
innumerable questions, but gave no time even
'or their translation 10 his visitor and an
peared eager to get To the discussion of pres
ents. No remarks of Importance were eIi.ited
from hrn, with the exception of an avovaI os
friendship FOR the EnslisH- His features az,
uarSer than the average Abyssnian's but ex
cept the mouth with thick Iips are NOT those
oA u negro. His expression is kindly and mns,
WHO KNOW hlm agree to his anliabiIity of dis