Evening star., 1901-04-16
ACROSS MOUNTAINS AFOOT
FROM CARACAS TO La GUAYRA IN
SOUTH AMERICA.
story Related by First White Woman
to Traverse Andes Trail
Descriptive of Trip.

Miss Mary AuShinbaugh of this city. now
in South America. recently wrote to a
friend in Washington, giving an account
of trip made afoot across the Andes
mountains from Caracas to La Guayra-
Miss Aughnbaugh is said to be the first
white woman to make the journey over
that trail. She says:
In the eastern cordillera of the Andes.
nestled in the heart of the beautiful Chaca
valley, over three thousand feet above the
level Of the sea, lies picturesque Caracas.
The capital of Venezuela is often called
the Paris of South America. for nature has
here been lavish with her gifts. Surround
ed on all sides with mountains. the scene
is indeed magnificent and enchanting.
About 7 o'clock one bright Sunday morn
ing We started to climb La Sila (named
from it's resemblance to an army saddle),
which is S,622 feet above sea level and
the second highest point of the Andes on
the Atlantic coast. We were three enthu-
sastic pedestrians, well equipped for
mountain walk, clad in light clothing and
heavy shoes. and provided each with a
cane and a revolver.
Leaving the city to the south the steep
ascent soon began. Like Lots wife, we
could not refrain from turning round in or
der to take in the view surrounding us.
Caracas seemed to be slumbering in the
valley, while the majestic mountains on all
sides StO0d ike SentlnelS on guarQ. In Ine
distance Los Teques and Ell Nalle and the
unique little village of Antimino reposed.
The church bells We're family heard and
added a soemnity to the picture. The
palm trees. tall and stately, We're nodding
and waving their fans at the sun, which
was not yet very high. Here and there,
fringing the base of the mountains, were
coffee and sugar plantations, the bright
emerald green of the sugar cane and the
glossy. darker green of the coffee tree
contrasting so harmoniousy with the pas
tel shades Of the adobe houses. Above
great pillows Of fieecy clouds, floating
through the clear, blue sky, cast shadows
the landscape below
How vastly different from a bird's-eye,
view of an American city! No smoke nor
steam coming from the chimneys. no clang
ing bells Of trolley cars or the shrill whistle
Of the notwithstanding but Mother Ma
ture. We gazed long in rapture upon the
majesty and grandeur Of the scene The
air was cool and exhilarating, and added
rest and peace to the picture.
Turning, we started onward and upward
over the serpentine mountain path. Soon
there were evidences of a stone roadway
an old Spanish military road. which the
march of centuries has in places entirely
defaced and obliterated. For hundreds and
hundreds of yards there is no trace at all
of it and at times there Is only the slight
est evidences Of what was at one time q
great thoroughfare. The turns and twists
OF the mountains necessitated in it's con-
struction the smoothing of steep deciivities
and the bridging Of deep abysses.
Although the travel and traffic over it
are enormous, there is small regard at the
present day for comfort and convenience
There are short curves where curves are
unnecessary; straight paths up and over
some dizzy peaks where the ascent might
have been rendered less difficult by easy
gradations.
Truly this is a road with a past There
are many evidences Of the uniformity with
which the stones were laid. Where there
were bends in the road the stones have
been grooved and fitted in like mosaic. At
times 1t Is wide enough for twenty-five
men to march abreast and then again II
Is entirely lost to view by the luxuriant
growth Of vegetation.
1.-The road has been oblfterated In many
places to form monument to some dead
burro driver or soldier. There are in
Vulnerable pyramidal piles Of stones along
its sides. with two sticks forming cross
protruding from the top. Each passer-by
Is supposed to become monument builder,
for the time being. and throw a stone on
the heap which forms the grave. At times
placed on top Of the mound. and occa-
sionaliy a wreath of dried mountain flowers
gives evidence Of the fact that the deceased
Is still remembered.
Each moment brought something new
the scene at all times being varied and
captivating. Up and down we went over
places that seemed almost inaccessible;
now near q yawning precipice where a sin
coroner's jury unnecessary, then up again
to some higher ridge Of the Cordillera, with
craggy Cliffs and down again through some
moss-grown dell.
Luxurious Vegetation.
Vegetation seemed most iuxuriant near
the mountain streams. 1t was like music
to hear the clear, sparkling water gush
down the sides and then fall in torrents
in a pool. or. perhaps. to dow on and on
until It was lost to sight.
There were many varieties Of ferns.
maiden-h hair abounding; beautiful dark
red fern. with the unfurled hairy tips of
clear pink. being profuse; also begonias,
Solomon-seal, anemones and kind OF hare
bell, wherever there was much shade and
moisture. On the dry and sunny sides Of
the mountains were many century plants,
cactus and castor oil beans, bamboo and
hanging orchids. Around the haciendas
was the perennial banana: also orange,
coffee, cacao and lime trees.
'0ftentimes we would devfate from the