The citizen. (Frederick City, Md.) 1895-1923, 1901-11-22
MOUNTAIN CLIMBING.
eXlLt, PRUDENCE AND EXPERIENCE
NECESSARY TO SUCCESS.

The Dangers and the Periis of Ascent
and the Methods of Avoiding Them
Described by Veteran AIpInist.
How Accidents Happen.
Mountain climbing is a craft which has
a twofold object-the attainment of the
point which it is desired to reach and the
avoidance of accident in so doing. The
first is gained by skill, the second by pru-
doncc and experience. Accidents are
rauscd either by things falling upon the
climber or by the climber himself falling
When l speak of accidents. mean
practically unavoidable misfortunes More
than half the deaths that annually occur
on the Alps are caused by neglect of the
most rndimentary precautions and are not
properly accidents. True Alpine acci-
dents are those which occur in spite Of
FORESIGHT and precaution. They have al
ways been few and when the continually
increasing number of climbers is reckoned
they may be said TO decrease rather than
increase in frequency.
The things that by falling upon a climb
ing patty may produce fatal results are
rocks. Zee and snow. All rock mountains
are falling 10 picceS-Some faster than
others-unIer the alternate frost and
thaw. Water tricbles into cracks on
warm day At night il freezes and in
freezing expands. Ii thus acts like
wedge to widen the cracks and tear rocks
aSundcr. Thus the whole face Of most
rock mountains is numbered with loose
.''',' ."'', ,''u ou ''4-eS to Iall Wheh the
""-. VI" lo'@' Is aPl'Hrd, One stone IN
''.''" '"' 1'fS aHu lh"y ~ turn many
"''', J." i'lN '4'Ah't Nttpie rock face
"'N .' $"'lI Wv iNNt'"iS ol lddns rocks
~ on @"aI''S ana sizes. Su,h laIIs are
I|'E ,"i''lh"n 90" tA' 'A>t lace oI the
N"l H"l H. iAat Is W"N iae route iol-
l'"'l UP II N''Is us close as possible To
'", 'G-e gu tue lace.
h.'" '1'CS are usually iNfoWed win
t,''NS /, ''iled tAi"S ann 'o-''Irs, worn by
.ue s."HGS l"-i'I'I Ho"h '.em. II gully
= l,a'-..l, STONES generally iad down the
!I'""'' '' H. ANA 'N' SIDES may oe climbed
i' '".i '.F''tIe SalelE' some faces Of
roe" 'fe '',sS I'''' 20 be stone swept than
VT ~ 'NPtt'LgNu GUNNER knows
1N' s',"s "t u""S'f' " men lhere Is much
recently i51I''n Sne" en- rock race stones
vs. "'' ran 80 "l''n "s Nu'h 'he snow Is
a., a., ''.''" away soou t,luloer neatS
=" ''. .L.'' Ill u'iIa ana KNOWS What
- LOON u.' io''
'> "''' s.' i-es' so win nee. II does
i,"t 4%a amy where ana ahyhoW' IL mas
i'S H." .i'S' W. II may ne learned by OBJ
St' ''H' IN''Vl Ill 'ue loWer part OF
6,"'''' ',' ~ 'u'i" "Ip'a.S ON thG surface.
''l'S ",'N N"Su'F oI zee Wheh th"y
I''a" u'iu 4io1'u Snow " mere glacier
w., 'H"S N''| Sleep ana uneven slope
II uI'""S up 'Hlo great Jumps OF ice,
NH',1 are t"Iigu stracs' Neracs otten
.H"i,''' NI' sV4u"H ~ 'he carry part OF
lHe GaE' y IS generally easy to perceive
Ni',H'r u t'FCh S'rac Is ready to ran or
N"e'u'I II - nIIu' y wen CHOSEN route
"N"", '"r 'l".N MmVIe lhe serac may be
eNi'''eu 10 IAN Iue crests OF some mar
~" SnoM 'NSeS IIe lIlhgeu with an
|('ln"HE'Ht y, wave ol lee' caIIeu corhlce.
Nol"tCeS E'oW SloWiy ny accretoh or
5,''" - ,.'',,.'' ~" '"V$ pecone 700 Dig
~ t",i, ,, IN w, Nut - lne man Oh Wh"h
my l""' He ".s' man uoes not pass
"Hy'I a E'e"l 'oIil'ee
"''liE sHo" Is Vdleu snow ava
iahGh'' Ni"l" aVaiahches only fall IN
c"SHy IecoEnl"ah'e tracks. Most OF them
Io' III sIr'H% me- u'loFe climbing be-
guns. me summer aValahcnes ran after
H'''" i"S Cu'ilui"''u uurihs n"u
MG9lnvr ANal"h,Ie however seldom
l"ll ol, ci'iliperS, Suaily an accident is
e"uSou 10y 'iie cliIhplhg party starting an
aHaLaI'n@ rolessor / yhuall nearly lost
ms lile IA this way lie was crossing
slV.P s'opG u SNOW III the aiterhooh' AIT
81 II had oeeh Soltehed oy not sunshine.
1t cl"cNed across ana t,ie "hole surface
lool uetp or o,sl'u uoWh, carrying
nis parry WIN IT. by E9od luck they es-
caped from the rear OF the avalanche be-
HI rJ, "a el, ing ',i' euSe ol u chn' over
-. -. = ptuuVu' Viiinpcl "NPius
NIs',4s Nh lo!sen suI" s'opes INIT are stvep'
foIIs 9e en"e 'uentS' ' Ho"eleF' ale caused ny
aI;,.', lIi,l9 i,o'n i1,Ns' iye or snow; CarG1ul
a. ,,et ,,.',.,+,I.. - iuH '.oli loeAs' Ihey
az i,I' 1iie'i 'aNe asten'S mat are beyond
GOOD ono,i.h ~, |a,. H. H. - Ine Euiues are
81 ,,o,,, IN I'is p'l u'"' Ti'uln' Two
safn L,, e'i,.el any Io'crapie cilIiiper
tbev oro p,nrrr ,,,.iu usG ~ u tne rope me
La T,a,.o. ~, ~ '',5 - ~ NeepS sun When
dro,,. l., -, ~, ,n.S 'eni''ii nliny p'ah'ea ana
sIi,s 49,. e,'.;I', -, "I "u '"iioes' II nc
e.II fr,r, "J'u ~ I'm n''i''
Tho d,,oo,.l,,,. -. ,,' VI, N"SS " cnech:
roaI ;aa|LaaI H. ~. ~ ~ s,pep slopes or
= rraao, ',i ,''''I ''.e I'VE .'Ae tue surface or
emf in snch ,,,oto.;o4 ~ oe at "i "nsie' steps
eIinnn,.r II -, 80 ,'tV',se'Ies quite
Inn on5 al -. w. 1u's @ Ninu Is very