The semi-weekly messenger. [volume] (Wilmington, N.C.) 1897-1908, 1901-09-06
WILMINGTON. N. C..


prepared by a German expert living for |
the last thirty years in the United
States. 1t appeared in the New York
Forum, and it was a thorough discus
sion of the adulterated fabrics now
manufactured for thirty years and
was by one who was really thor
oughly posted in the whole de-
tails Of manufacturing. We remem-
Der to have said of his discussion that
he showed such minuteness OF informa-
ton that only such experts as he was
could be equal to the forming Of a truly
scientific tariff. He said that but little
was manufactured in the way of fabrics
that was genuine. but authorizations
played a conspicuous part. We recall
that we pointed the confirmation to the
vast amount of "shoddy" that was be-
ing imported into this country under
the rascally Dingley tariff-many times
more than previous importations.
The American people do not know
now when they buy fabrics for man or
woman what they are really getting.
If they think the clothing is genuine, is
what it calls for or appears to be, they
are greatly deceived. Great advance
has been made in the American weav-
ing capacity over previous years. The
Scientific American of Philadelphia is a
high authority as all informed people
know. That organ says that positive
genius of a high order has been eX-
pended in inventing methods of weav-
ing shoddy and aduIterated goods in
this country" 1t goes on to tell that
the machinery invented to manufac-
ture these so-called shoddv goods usu-
ally adulterate them in the warp yarn
and not in the weft. The two-ply yarns
are formed by twisting a wool and cot
ton or silk and cotton yarn together,
n if the warp is examined and the
yarns UNFINISHED the cotton can be de-
tected. Cotton being the cheapest fibre
We have, it is used most extensively In
all the adulterated goods. Cotton is
cheaper, and also less durable" We re-
member hat the German expert said
that heavy deliberations appeared in
the winter apparel of the 1aboring
classes in the cold climate. that they
bought goods apparently wooden when
1T was greatly mixed with cotton that
was not warm. We said at the time
tina when a man bought a suit of
~ clothes he had no guarantee that he
was buying woolens at all. Is 1t any
better now? The art is consummated
now. The inventive man has helped to
make the deception perfect. The Scien-
Z tiic American says:
Some of the weaves are so ingenious
Iy put together that it is difficult even
for expert buyers and manufacturers
to detect the cotton absolutely without
some kind of test. The goods are fin
ished off so that they ppea as good
as the genuine. Expert buyers some
times test the goods with acids. a
sample an inch square of the fabric is
taken for the test. This is laid in a
porcelain dish, and a so per cent. solu-
ton of sulphuric acid Is poured over it.
The dish is held over a slow fire for
a short time until the cloth begins to
undergo a slight change in color. Then,
when the solution has cooled off, the
cloth will show up the presence of cot
ton. and also the relative amount in
1t. The acid solution dissolves the cot
ton and works havoc with IT."
This adulteration is not limited. 1t
is formed in all kinds Of women aD-
parel-in alpaca, worsted. mohair, silk.
and so on. The Philadelphia organ
goes into particulars showing the tests
made. The finest goods adulterated as
we'll as the coarser, cheaper materials.
The organ says that Gin the manufac-
ture of silk goods such tests are quite
necessary today, for many grades Of
cheap satins and heavy silks are made
which would deceive any except the
experts. Some of these v the cot
ton mixed in with the warp yarns, and
by means of patent processes of finish
ing it's presence annot be detected.
+Other grades have a cotton back and
"a pure-silk face. Our towels,
crashes and heavy damasks are often
adulterated with cotton. and it is quite
necessary to be able to tell the differ
ence between the pure linen goods and
the adulterated. Even pure linen will
sometimes pass for pure cotton, so art
full are the processes of manufacture.
= A fibre known as artificial silk
is sometimes used to adulterate pure
silk goods. and the ordinary silk test
+. described does not affect it."
Then there is what is known as muir
ceriZed cotton" which is greatly used.
1t has the appearance of silk and a
lustre all it's own 1t is sold sometimes
for what it is, but it is also used to de-
ceive in knit underwear goods, hosiery,
gloves and even is sold as part silk"
Lately the attempt is made to dye it,
and the result is that cotton lis now
: dyed in nearly all the prevailing shades
but the work it a delicate n and
requires careful manipulation. This
makes the use of the prepared fabric
more general h ever. and also opens
the way for ~deceiving the purch- SEP
who takes his goods on faith from dis
honest dealers"
This ought to prove instructive read
ing to the. tax payers. the people at
large, and dealers. 1t is a day of high
and Astounding shoddy and