The Savannah morning news., 1901-07-07

7 do not know the taste Of the nasty
stuff"
wen, but I s'pOso you smoke and
chew tobacco. Them's more habits l
don't like-spccially chewin'. A man
that chews tobacco is
Il beg your pardon, sir, but ! have
! never used tobacco In any form. never
! have even smoked a cigarette"
H M her father answered, but you
swear like trooper sometimes I'll bet.
Now, II there's anything I hate to have
around the house it's a man that swears.
swearn' is a habit that no"
But have never uttered an oath in
all my life. ] have never told lie.
nor said word that I would be asham-
ed to have any lady hear. ="
ION. confound it," the old man exclaim-
ed, as he reached in his pocket. Here's
a penny. Run out and buy yourself
stick OF candy, and don't bother me sny
more to-day I'm busy
Paris leads the world in dressmaking.
It is estimated that there are 1900 per-
sons employed In the dressmaking eslab-
lishments of the city, and If one includes
the workers who design and make the
materials used by the dress makers, about
100000 persons are engaged in the strug-
gle to satisfy woman's love of chiffons.
Dressmakers, says the New York Sun,
are SDTllkleQ Ill through inc NiNyt bh~
the dressmakers quarter, le quarter des
couturers, as it is called in Paris, is in
the neighborhood of the Rue de la PaiX.
Down around the Rue du Quatre Septem-
bre are the Wholesale houses and be-
tween the two quarters trot les trottins,
as the young girls who act as messen-
gers are slangily called They were les
coursieres in the old days, and the ram
GUS or infamous Nine. Dubarry climbed
from their ranks almost into the throne
of France Les trottns would make the
fortune of a comic opera company II
the chorus were recruited at random from
their ranks, and they share with the girls
who carry hats to and from the swell
miliners' shops the reputation OF being
the most trim and coquettish OF French
working girls.
The great dressmaking shops OF the
quarter are superb affairs full OF pomp
and circumstance. They are furnlsheu
in splendid fashion and every detail OF
their management suggests luxury and
extravagance On their books are the
names of all the royal persouages of Eu-
rope, of favorites in Turkish harems, OF
japanese beauties, of Americans whose
wealth makes them coveted patrons, OIL
women from every nook and corner OF
the world where woman knows the charm
of a Paris gown and men are willing 10
provide the money lot tALAdN
Those books would make interesting
reading for one who could read between
the lines: but they would be dun beside
the black books kept by all the fashion
able dressmakers. In the black DOCKS
are entered all the names upon whose
credit there is shadow and the cause
of the doubt; the comment, gossip, scan
dal is written under the name. Ihere
would be exciting times If those DOCKS.
should come into the market; Tor the
dressmakers know many story that has
meyer been told aloud 1t is their bust
ness to know. They cannot sell thousands
of dollars worth of clothes to woman
without having accurate knowledge as 10
her. credit and the sources of her in
come.
1t is said that the dressmakers of Paris
have their own detective corps ana that
the firms exchange their information ana
divide the cost of obtaining It. respectfully
in regard to popular actresses ana deml"
rnondaines. who are the Paris dress
makers most lavish customers, 1t is nee
essary to be wen informed. Their for
tunes and their credit vary often and vio-
lently. and woman who is most val
liable patron one year may not De the
next season.
When a woman goes into one OF the
famous shops for the first time her name
is taken. Then deferential saleswomen
show her gowns. consult her wishes,
smooth her the right way, while, all the
time. some one else is consulting the black
book to see IL the new customers name is
there. and. not finding 1t there, goes TO
other sources for information. Word is
passed to the saleswoman who is waiting
upon madame If the investigation has
been satisfactory the customer is encour-
aged to buy to any extent. II not, the
AFFAIR is put into the hands of the most
tactful of the attendants and she tries
to guard the interests of the house with
out open rudeness-
Even with the closest care the losses
of such dressmaking. houses are enor-
NOUS A firm doing about 81, 100000 Of
business in year will probably lose at
least $3.50 900 q year on bad debts. Still
in spite of that handicap, the prohts are
enormous Some houses carry on @lsi-
ness of St75O 900 or 81. 900 900 a year; but
of course expenses are great. Added TO
the bad debts are rents IN the most ex-
pensive quarter of Paris, advertising,
waste and corps of efficient ana expert
enced assistants, so that net pronts are
seldom more than from 10 TO 10 per cent
of the money turned over.
The assistants are, as rule, well PAID.
| The cutters, fittefs, designers, ETC., re-
| ceive large wages, and the saleswomen,
In whom a very high degree of tact and
| intelligence is necessary. NIKE from 800
| to $4,000 year. In addition 10 this, a
successful saleswoman often receives very
large tips from customers whom she
pleases There have been many instances
| in which a wealthy or a royal parsonage
| has taken q violent fancy to a saleswoman
and has smoothed her way to fortune and
position.
After the season is over, and the trials
and triumphs of the winter belong to the
past. a girl who has just come OUT en-
| ters into the next phase Of her dehutante
season. II she is what is called smart.
saws the New York Tribune, this is real
/ Nv the best part of the year, which
| every one in the family comedies be-
longs to her by right, and in which every
possible thing IS done to contribute TO
her pleasure and success. Later on she
will doubtless go TO Newport or some
other fashionable watering place, but for
| the next six weeks her times will be
most delightfully."- filed by visits to her
| friends House parties are becoming
more and more of a recognized social in
stitution in this country, and the scale
OF entertainment at many of the beauti-
ful country places OF the rich and great
Is equal TO that at the most luxurious
establishments in England. SO now our
debutante's engagement book is filled up
! with the best invitations of ALL Dates
| for Friday until Monday" parties, and