New-York tribune., 1901-09-08
SHADES OF BROWN SMART
PARTISAN DRESSMARERS ARE TIMID AS
YET ABOUT EXPRESSING VIEWS On
THE COMING FASHIONS.
Paris. August so.

Paris. August 80
SIX coats promise to be even more fashionable
than they were during the spring and undoubtedly
much more worn than they were then. is al
vyavs the case the second season Of a new mode
However there are plenty Of new models and nov
elites IN this line If prefers them 10 the more
conventional shapes.
The designers have evidently not only been STUDY
ing historical costumes, but old fashion plates OF
the last century. md hints They have borrowed
largely from the Louis XIV period. and again. a
10 Sc pelisse with enormous sleeves popular about
the time Of the Franco Prussian War, seems to be
the source Of inspiration. This latter shape Is per
haps better in velve: than in silk
II is such simple shape that IL needs to be made
Of rich materials The sack part. reaching half way
TO the knees. is shaped the figure 10 suggest II
not % define IL. The sleeves widen until they
reach a circumference of a yard or more al the
bottoms. where they turn up in large cuffs. There
is a high. turnover collar. and the fronts OF the
cost term make revers. most noticeable
model in this shape Is made Of purple velvet with
the large cuffs ard the revers Of white satin on
which white velvet figures are appliqned. The same
shane IN a heavy black silk has revers and cuffs
Of crmine
The Louis Ky coats are more coquettish They
are pretty in tucked silk with the tucks released
about a foot from the bottom of the garment TO
allow the silk to aare out excessively. This gar
ment hfs the figure. and there haring cuffs and
high turnover collar
THE FLARING SKIRT.
There are other shapes. but mostly variations OF
these two forms. II may be well 10 remember that
the excessively haring skirt is the most prominent
feature on the coats.
While on the subject Of outdoor wraps 1t might
be well 10 speak Of a smart travelling wrap that
an English tailor is showing. The material Is
shepherds plaid and the trimming stitched straps
of black cloth. The garment, which is long and
hult on the ulster plan. has straight front, ana
the back ''bousng" slightly over narrow cloth
belt Straps Of the cloth go down the sides OF the
garment and trim the big reVers and the bottom
Of the sleeves. which are cut roohy anu HdIe 3"
little at the bottom.
Many Of the skirt and coat suits Of tweed OF
plain cloth are trimmed with checks or plaluS
They look very smart. dark gray tweed =
trimmed with plaid that has some bright purple
mixed with black and white. On the jacket Is d
wide collar Of this framed in stitched BANDS OF
the tweed and there is a wide band on the SHIT
st the head Of the shaped hoanee, TINS, 700
framed IN bands Of the plain stuff The oacket Is
Of the blouse variety. cut with untrimmed coattas
and heited with strap of the plaid. The sleeves
are fulled into small close cuffs OF plaid.
That sleeves viii be elaborate the coming season
there is little doubt but there is some difference OF
oninion as 10 the exact shape and style The
greater part OF the autumn gowns show sleeves
Suggestive Of those worn In the spring; that Is
they are cut full at the wrists ard undersleeves
have evidently not gone out Of favor The newer
idea Is 10 Introduce puffs and slashes, but Ike all
new ideas n is a question whether OF not II viii
he adopted However. puffed sleeves have been
worn TO a certain extent this summer, so they will
not seem 50 strange on heavy gowns
WHITE AND BLACK.
A rather original white and black costume is made
of a uehtweight white cloth trimmed with white
ellipure with lines and knots CT tiny black velvet
ribbon throusA the lace. The skirt Is made
with three shaped hounces. edged with the trimmed
lace and with insertions OF lace figures running up
on the nounees and up the sides OF the skirt from
the top hounce The bodice is an open jacket with
large collar and revers OF the trimmed lace The
sleeves are made close top and bottom with puns
belt is stitched band OF cloth with small Dlack
velvet buttons ana the fTqnt and ehoker are OF
For the late summer the hne, silky alPacas seem
Of the models appear in this pretty fabric A
gown worn AZ the Ag Irouyilie race was OF water
melon pink alpaca mace up IN original iasnlon-
The long skirt was made with a straight oyerskrt,
similar shirts falling this The had
and front of lace and an open waistcoat of white
buttons. The sleeves had turnover cuffs OF white
satin With second Guns Of lace they were cut fun
on the outside Of the arm and fastened down with
Gowns Of embroidered net are now the rage
Effective. indeed, j. gown Of net IN the fashion
Six The embroidery in this case Is done by iSe ap
pliqueng tiny enetonne flowers IN the form cres-
fringe q ochre coiorea cord and scattered over
he waist. which IS finished with high sash of
Several shades OF yellow ~ costume are
represent Isshionable coBbnat,on na,s9 20
beauty wore 70 the races recently pink muslin
Il has been considered Chic 10 have hat and par
asol match and contrast with the gown.
FOR THE AUTOMOBILE
fabric in great demand for automobile and
other outing suits is Indian cloth made OF a
heavy thread cosrsely woven. II forms an ex-
cellent background for effective embroideries and
appears in this form on tailored for revers
Black and white lace the two colors woven IN the