The Washington times., 1901-10-13

crowd, in dense clouds of tobacco smoke
! and dust, and pay money for IL, while
they would scorn the thought of sitting in
| as close quarters in their own homes.
! with better fare and at little or no
| cost.
The most amusing feature. though. of
| these old places is the rivalry, and par
/ ticularly the musical rivalry, that exists
| between them. Like three Old gruff must
clans they stand and frown and growl at
| one another Each place maintains a
1 band. Each band is selected for its espe-
cial ability to make great noise and up
| roar. Each band does its best to out
| clamor its neighbor. One would think. to
hear them all playing away at the same
time, that some long standing grudge
! chat of foundress and founder perhapO
| was being wiped out. on approaching the
! secene through the Thiergarten. on dark
| evening. when the places can be heard
| long before being seen. the effect is in
! deed quite awe-inspirrng. One stands and
listens and wonders what it can be. That
| fearful blast of trumpets; that ear-pierc-
| ing shrek of clarinets; that untimely
of the tuba. 1t is no Mozart nor Beet
| hoven, nor Wagner. and yet. here and
there, one believes he recognizes a pas
sage from these masters The pessimistic
| critic might call 1t tone painting by
| modern Wagner fanatic.
On reaching the secene the mystery Is
| Immediately cleared up by finding all four
| bands playing away at once. The first is
saving off the overture to ''Tannhauser;
the second is humping out Beethoven s
Turkish march; the third is giving most
| mournful imitation of Mozart's Lar
ghetto while the fourth is blowing the
latest hit, "Wir sind die Sanger Won Fin
sterwalde," almost to shreds. The gar
| dens are packed to suffocation, and the
walks on both sides of the street are
lined with hearers. who applaud heartily
at the close Of each singular potpourri
while the bandmasters bow their thanks
and slyly laugh up their sleeves at their
remarkable success. 1t is doubtful IL any
one of these places could exist without the
other; and it is more than likely that
after the concert the four leaders could
be found together, with their pots of beer
before them. arranging the programmes
for the morrow in the most discordant and
unharmonious way, and having another
good laugh at the expense of their audi
ence.
Leaving the city gardens that are all
of more or less the same type one may
take his way in any direction and soon
find places where the wild woods, ripping
runs. running rivers and fragrant flowers
give him nature in her full beauty and
power. Here are 'Das Eierhaeuschen,
.'Tshbert's Waldschlotschen," ''Muggel-
OF old repovvr>
The leading place. however. is the "Ab-
tel 1t is picturesqueiy situated on the
island in the Spree. and takes its name
from the decayed ruin of an old cloister
that occupies the centre of the island and
contrasts strangely with the up-to-date
restaurants around it. Late corners will
not secure places here, ana hundreds are
turned away every evening. Pretty little
electric yachts carry the guests to the
island, and the boats from the city stop at
the opposite shore. An air of plenty and
extravaganza prevails here, and the ex-
tensive grass plots and flower beds weave
a privacy and secrecy about each snowy
covered table. No band annoys one here;
a dignified silence reigns, and excepting
the clink of glasses or the subdued out
break OF an animated guest, not a sound
is heard.
Occasionally a homeward bound steam
er sends stray note or two from its lit
tie discordant band, but the distance lends
enchantment even to this. The hand
somely engraved menu card includes all
the delicacies of the season. besides the
standards. as "Wienerschnitzel." 'Hohen-
zollerntopf'' "Leipzigeralledlei," and
"Hoppel-Poppel" On certain days special
dishes, such as "Frieassee of chicken
"caIf's feet" or ''Eisben und sauerkraut''
are announced on dainty little notices in
conspicuous places. The wine list con-
tains everything; the Moselles, Rhines.
and clarets: the heavy Spanish ports and
sherries: the sweet Italians; the cham
pagnes, Mumm, Piper Heidsieck. Cliquot,
and Kupferberg Gold. The sleek walters
hustle about taking orders with their ever
ready "Bitte schoen," "JawOhl." so
fort" and WAS befellen der Herr" on
their tongues. Or they come laden with
dishes and wine-coolers. admonishing ev-
cry ore to clear the way with their 'Yor
sehn.' "Achtung." When it grows quite
dark, dainty candlesticks. with pretty red
shades on them, are placed on the tables
to shed a quiet light below. and spread a
gentle glow above. All sorts of light craft
glide noiselessly by on the water, and
their tiny lights twinkle family on rip
pied surface.
Gradually 1t grows pitchy dark. The
moon rises, deep red on the horizon. like
an immense ball of fire. As it climbs.
slowly, quietly, it loses its fiery glow. and
over its silvsry trail on the water it sends
a peaceful light to the island and casts a
charm over the old Abtel and its sur
roundings. Then everything is hushed.
Everyone watches this glorious spectacle
All disturbance ceases. The guests be-
come thoughtful and intently gaze at
nothing. They forget their half-illed
glasses and half-emptied bottles The
walters stand idly about and nod. Soon
one of the tables is deserted. Quietly its
occupants leave it, and quietly depart.
Another and another follow until all are
gone. click of the latch and creak of
the bolt tell that the last struggling stag
gerer has passed the gate. The last boat
carries him to the shore. Turning he sees
the lights fade one by one. He believes he
can distinguish forms and outlines until
the last spark winks and the island is a
dark spot. left to the revels of the spirits
of the monks. whose bones are preserved
in the cloister vaults or lie moldering
under the gravel walks and grassy plots
Indianapolis Journal.