The Republican journal., 1901-03-21
IS ONLY ONE RoNDA,"
ae Must See 1t, Though Adieus
shereio l., had Already Been Said.

-a Must See It, Though Adieus
p'''1'ss spain had Already Been Said.
c,rrespondence of The journal
Qspf''' SPAIN, Feb. II, 1901. We had
RoSr ,. cached the coast, about to bid
s.9I1r45die sIr 5dieu to Spain when-at the
! Hr" -sqommendation of a party of
sroDs iobia tourists whom we met at
PbI'oS we cancelled our passage on
y>ss Going steamer and retraced our
he 0% "a see the only Ronda.' Why
DER ,s hesitate, after whole year
'io"S and of the Dons, to give one
% 3" gttIe week to seeing one of the
po ,st places in the world? The rea-
lp'. 50 few travellers visit Ronda is
'D .G if lies far from the beaten track,
T''' b5 reached only by stage over
~ and dangerous Sierra. But
er, .var made the trip without
p'. a r,cbv repaid. Nowadays you
F'"7 d, rail from Malaga as far as
p'' s+e. a dirty little station at the
Oy ridge of rugged rocks, where
o. rg-r,la ride begins. 1t is only a
nile, mostly straight up and down,
" H. fire IS from eight to twelve
% lalIars. according to location
t aId how much the guard can
,t If YOU. IN most countries
s-aors are run, outside seats are
if--A rreferable and cost more
~, +.a,e inside. But it is the reverse
s,ar4 where people avoid fresh air
.14,tfLglce and wrap themselves up
t5 eyes from the slightest breeze.
n learned 3tterwards that six pesetas
r- rguIar price for outside seats
al sisit for inside; but foreigners are
,aar,cuged more, on the supposition
.tst tbry must have plenty of money,
.e0rg are they travelling? The Co
,,o,-s liljgeucia was certainly invented
Il .omf genius of a sarcastic turn of
-r5 Tt ooks more like a razed canal
s,s--lau coach, and its great height
rr., ii q dangerously top-heayy appear
,,ss There are no springs to speak of,
anil IA. largest of its several COM
garments SIX persons sit facing each
...- Doors and windows are invari-
5g ,osed and everybody who can
.4lrl f smokes continuously; while
..,,- slo rannot add their quota to
asbonaurt of odors by exhaling garlic.
Take the top 10y all means, though icy
Tr.s ir1m the upper Sierra chill you
Fl tie marrow, Even there vile smells
msr- r0u. for only strip of leather
r+fgae, oetWeen the luggage and
fssl.--be after including rancid oil,
tmlIing. bacaloa, (cod fish, and
rsgrodonterous native delicacies. But
NE s,v- of the turnout compensates
iy such slight inconvenience! The
aa er conductor, is as pompous
Me 1tatuTial as such an important
mstol euands-in Spain. He wears
WI. rhet and flowing trousers,
Trimmed aIi a quantity of scarlet
f0, saa 5Iorned with silver coins in
gn3qt buttons, a gorgeous Silken sash,
and e '5tHes. or AndaluSian hat, some
Ta lg-r than a wash bowl, fiat |
0Te1 N1dd-brimmed, distant rela- |
tnt ~ ta- Mexican sombrerO. He keeps |
q sms W}r0r conveniently at hand,
fs- nHy frequently ascertain the !
A4C uilUn of his cherished spit |
u-s a.au ratchers" | believe the girls |
aAtfm which are plastered in double |
Ne5yr RIO each side of his saddle
iaa Jntruance, and are manifestly |
te NJ4uf his heart Tucked snugly |
'"ul Ids ears, and held secure by hair
g-a,4L -o the stiffness of spikes, are
M4-, of Cigarettes for the days use.
ds 'Hal4lsbeS an enormous whip as the |
@g. VT his profession and sceptre of |
authority and his mouth continually |
WeuoN with strange and original
Gy-s of tue largest dimensions. His So
called assistant t'-who does all the |
golE- 'sa sort of running driver, known
as d. Lagal, whose duty it is to urge on
Nf poor abused mules by pelting them
'lii rocks mp hill and down dale, 60 |
ay never so well. There is posti- |
lol. too. whose arduous position, being
Hqe both night and day without rest, |
has gained for him the sobriquet of ''the
@hdemned.' Most picturesque of all |
Bjle team-the hair having been clip |
ped from teir sides in fanciful designs i
scrolls. zig-zags, arabesques, flowers,
aDS -l2aEds-all accurately portrayed |
aud Intended to initiate embroidered
housings, 1t is a gypsy art, seen no
Were else in such extravagant perfec-
.o4 and its practice has descended |
'lVln 7agaDond father to vagabOnd son,
upugt centuries. The mules are also |
bedizened with jingling
%lS and tassels in all the colors of the
aA0oV their harness weighted with
's-headed brass nails, arranged in pat
WINS While the shoulders of each are
9gped with three huge punches of wool
Pm ,P yellow, purple and green. Our
.''oT passengers, company of young
P"saAts. going to Ronda for some fies-
''' We're no insignificant part of the