davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1901-02-03
woUEN VINO ARE EMB4LMERS.

one OF the latest lines of business 10 be pursued
b,, women is the grewsome one Of embalming' into
.hicb field several women have entered within
TWO or three years
Mrs MYRTLE Hamon, graduate OF the Massachu-
setts College of Embamlng. has begun the practice
90 hsr nrofessiou in Ottawa Canada, in the employ
Of a leading undertaken. She discovered she was
the only woman in the business in Canada at the
last annual meeting of the Ontario Embalmers
Association None Of the members OF that associa-
ton knew that there was woman In the pro-
fession and welcomed her as one who nils a long
felt want
The demonstrator. J. B. Mcintyre. said that he
was proud 20 be instructor at convention where
the innovation had been made. Mrs. Hamon
ceved the associations certificate. and the
aminers spoke highly OF her papers.
A woman embalmeF has been In business in New
York City for several years having studied In
New-YOrk Parts and Berlin. She was a trained
nurse In the beginning. ana gradually became deep
y impressed with the conviction that women un-
dertakers absolutely necessary. Unlike the
Canadians. New-York emhalmers objected strongly
TO wOman's entrance into the business, and have
tried to dfscredt her. she Her business As
Increasing however. many families greatly pre-
Ter 10 have a woman perform the last offices for
the dead sister daughter wife or mother
New-York tribune., 1901-02-03
MERRY WAR OF D. A. r.
THREE CANDIDATES IN THE FIELD FOR
THE OFFICE OF PRESIDENT-GE
LIVELY CONTEST EXPECTED.

The circular just sent to chapters of the Daugh-
tiers of the American Revolution throughout the
United States by the State and chapter regents or
New-Jersey is the formal announcement of the
merry war that may be expected when the Ma
tional organization Of the Daughters of the Ameri-
can Revolution meets for the election OF general
officers. The Continental Congress-. as it is called
will in Washington February o.
and the campaign is going on with almost the ex-
element of a political struggle.
The candidates Mrs. Washington A. Roebling
of Trenton, n. j.; Mrs. Donald Mclean, of New
York City and Mrs Charles W. Fairbanks. wife
Of Senator Fairbanks of Indiana The prize of the
contest is the office of Presdent-General Of the Ma
tonal organization of the Daughters.
The circular is signed by the State and chapter
regents of New-Jersey to the number of twenty
FIVE and asks the support of the different States
for Mrs. Roebing. West Point Chapter, of New
York City also supports Mrs. ROebling
New-York City Chapter. Of which Mrs. Mclean
is regent. naturally indOrses her claims with
enthusiasm. while Mrs. Fairbanks is favored by the
Board of Managers in Washington, and has the
support of the present President-General, Mrs.
Daniel Manning, who is strongly opposed to Mrs.
Mclean. Mrs. Manning is ineligible for reelection
at this time. owing 10 the tenure Of office limita-
ton in the constitution.
1t mas been said that the fight will be between
Mrs. Mclean and Mrs. Fairbanks, but there is a
growing feeling that Mrs. Roebling's chances are
wen the front. as her work as Vice President
General in the organization has made her known
to Daughters all over the United States.
Mrs Fairbanks Joined the society in the third
year of its organization. and has always been an
earnest worker. During her residence in Washing
ton she has been member of the National Board,
serving upon several exacting committees
She holds the position Of president of the
Woman's League of the National Junior Republic
and IS director OF the General Federation of
Womens Clubs
Her adherents OF the political wing OF the
society which desires that the head OF the Daugh-
terS shall be the wife of distinguished
I'm public life OF the Nation Being unable 10 obtain
the wife of the President, this party made efforts
to secure the consent of both Mrs Roosevelt and
the wife of a Cabinet officer to become candidates
for the Presidency. Both declined similar ef-
fort once made to secure the candidacy OF Mrs.
Cleveland. but without avail
The opposition 10 Mrs McLeans candidacy by
the Washington faction is based on the assumption
that, being a NeW-York woman. the balance or
interest FOR the organization would weigh i'm favor
Of her district The policy heretofore has been
the Capitalization of interest in Washington.
New-York tribune., 1901-02-03
MRS. CHARLES A
FAIRBANKS.

about the upper part Of the and not over the
shoulders. and must he confused with a shoulder
strap. The shoulder strap if IL is used generally
made OF Jewels. flowers or to hold some trimming.
trimming that passes about the decolletage OF the
corsage. carrying out the fchu or bertha idea
work OF black iet over white SILK is a good idea
Narrow black velvet ribbon has been used In this
way over wnte Yel'et the lattice work in the form
If tunic finished with deep fringe Of narrow
priately trimmed with black velvet flowers with
An effective black and white combination may he
carried out IN the rattail net that has become
popular; This IN white may have effective trim
ming about the bottom done I'm appliqued black
gold tissue used as has such an oVerdTess win
The trimming running up the sides and covering
the train is mounted over white chiffon, with
almost always the soft chiffon or mousseline TO
soften the silk foundation. This adds considerably
10 the expense Of an evening gown, but Is rarely
disregarded by good dressmakeTs. Even in the
trast is desired bring out some especial beauty
IN The lace pattern the underskirt is covered with
VVane Ia is such beautiful material that W viii
undoubtedly take a permanent place among the
fabrics that are used season after season. but as a
special novelty its bloom has departed. Perhaps
a better and more novel choice than one of panne
up lot Of vevets especially for the evening. Nat
hand. the French couturieres are making use of
The most formal materials. but. considering
into ravishng costumes, many OF them by no means
sussesting ne dowager pale yellow dinner gown
feet example Of what may be done with velvet HTbe
gown was IIopapIy not very extensive one for the
god-embrodercd !aces are somewhat cheaper than
they
GOLD BUTTONS IN PROPULSION
This perhaps leads up 10 the question OF whether
gold Will be worn on the spring gowns The dress
makers are quite willing TO answer this question
now, and seem to agree-something they did not do
when the question ~ gold trimming was discussed
some months ago On cloth gowns informal walk
Ing costumes, they will the small gold huttons
haToly larger than spangles, In profusion ON
elaborate visiting gowns some gold thread may he
included among the rich embroideries than will
continue 10 be most modish, while batweeD rba
tNo eHtrefnes gold viii be out OF place. The ltte
sOiu nahsl,s ana spikes that have been so sh-
loaa1le had better be discontinued and All de-
cided soia effects. They not in favor with tha
Important authorities on fashions. ON evening
gowns gold tissue Will be used N'eNAn6
Before finishing the discussion ~ aveDDr ,.o,,--
Il might be remarked that, the whole evsnins
cos unies were never more simple. Materials ars
so beautiful that 10 trim them much would he bae
taste At the same time. dancing froclxs for vonnS
women are made of tain fabrics that are ARRANGED
VIII Nreaths ana trails Of flowers and made IN
with applications Of lace The Louis XVI modes ava
quaint. put. after all. simple and these are very
New-York tribune., 1901-02-03
JUBILEE N BROOKLYN.
CHURCH CHARITY FOUNDATION SOCIETY To
CELEBRATE ITS FIFTIETH ANNIVER-
sARY-THE FOUNDER A WOMAN

a jubilee in which Brooklyn and neighborfng
districts much interested is arranged for Feb
ruary g. II will celebrate the completion of the
first fifty years Of active existence of the Church
Charity Foundation Society of the Diocese of Long
Island. The series Of services Will begin with the
celebration Of the Holy Communion in St. Johns
Chapel at 1890 a. m, and it is expected that
Bishop Littlejohn will be present. on the land
owned by the society. at Atlantic and Albany
and Herkmer-st.. the Home for the Aged. the
orphanage. St. Johns Hospital the printing house
OF the Orphans Press the Sisters house and All
Angels cottages 70, nurses. Besides this. it has
home for the blind in another part of the city the
building Of which is leased
In connection with the hospital is a training
school for nurses. In which twenty-four approved
candidates taking three years course. Sew
eraI OF the training school alumnse among the
employed nurses. well equipped pathological
laboratory has recently been added to the hospital
The only other important change is a discontin-
uance Of the city emergency work. the institution
being no longer subject 10 police calls in emergency
cases.
The sixty inmates Of the Home for the Aged
nearly all women. and the average age is only
a fraction below eighty years although persons
over sixty-hve admitted
he school cf the oTphanase. which has three
departments is under he supervision Of the Board
o: Education. Besides the printing establishment
where = large number 20 hoys are trained n :
printers there several other Industrial courses
Among the acquisitions Of the orphanaee are
stained glass windows piano In the schoolroom
and organ I'm the chapel all the gifts OF young
wCmen The gift best liked by the boys is Dewey.
q nt''e California burro. that has harness and
has seventeen inmates Miss MARY O TocsrtF is
the manager aHC with the aid of books piano
etc. she make cheerful days for her SIghtless
family.
The idea from which has grown this far reaching
work originated With Mrs. Sarah Richards Be
cause homes could not be found for three destitute
Women. she, with Mrs. Henry Pierrepont. Mrs
George Hastings, Mrs. Sarah Oracle and Others
rented 4 small house in Love Lane and a theologi-
cal student from Grace Church held weekly
vices in the house. This broadened into an in
corporated society. with all the Episcopal clergy
men having parishes in Kings County man
agers. while Board OF Associates elected
from the corporate members
St Johns Hospital started in a tenement house
in Fulton-st-. the present hospital building not
being completed until lSS2. This hospital cared
for three hundred soldiers OF the Spansh-AmerI-
can War In lS9S only one Of the number dying
The Sisters OF St John the Evangelist have been
connected with the organization since 1871. and
have had charge OF the various departments
New-York tribune., 1901-02-03
EVENINGS OF COLONIAL HISTORY.

Announcement has been made OF three evenings
Of Colonial history al the Pascal Institute. Lexing
ton-ave and FIfty-frst-st. be devoted to Illus
trated lectures on old Virginia by Mrs. Caroline
Froote Marsh. The lectures will be given on the
evenings OF February 7. March ana April H. and
will be followed by tea. The receipts will be ap-
piled to the scholarship fund Of the institute
which il designed TO teach young girls the means
of support by sklful needlework In dressmak-
ing and plain sewing.
Among those interested in the success OF the In
stitute and subscribers to its fund are the Rev
Charles n Eaton, the Rev. David h. Greer, MIS-
J. & HaZen. Mrs. Esther Herman MI. and MIS-
Abram s Hewitt, Mrs. G P Hurtingtoh MIS-
seth Low BISHOP Henry G.. Potter the Rev. Will
lam 8 Rainsford. Theodore Roose'elt Mrs. Rus
Ill SAGE MISS Margaret StmsOn. Mrs. j. Ken
nedv Tod and Mrs. Henry NlIard
New-York tribune., 1901-02-03

The smart model, as illustrated, is made OF DARK
tan cheviot, double faced and the trimming con-
sists OF a circular band and facings OF the ma
terial showing tho underside but any durable
cloth is entirely suitable and colors be varied
70 suit all tastes Dark red. blue and green are
all effective upon the ice; all browns tans blacks
and mixtures in vogue. Braid tailor stitching
and applied bands make effective trimming. The
fronts of the Eto1 with single darts, but fl
snugly TO the figure The back is seamless and
fitted in a rounded batke extension below the
waist, and is Joined to the fronts by wide under
arm cores that extend well back to form side backs
and give slender, taperjng effect 70 the figure.
The sleeves are two scanned. snug. without being
tight. and cut in modified bell shape so allow
ing the jacket 20 be slipped and OF with
At the neck is the military collar. known the
Kaiser with pointed ends that be hooked over
close or left free. preferred.
The skirt is cut with a narrow front gore. wider
side cores and narrow backs The upper portion
fits snugly and is laid in a deep inverted pleat
the back. The lower portion flares gracefully and
allows ample freedom for the feet The front gore
New-York tribune., 1901-02-03

pabe Children. which was founded by Civitas sew
eral years ago and is under the direction OF
the city. The development OF the Civitas kinder
garten and the work of the Boys Club which are
both carried on in Maxwell House No 2a5 Concord
h ST., were g rec4nned IL was stated that member
as workers for L eou be FOR found girls club
:, MISS Elsie W. Ripley suggested that Lenten sew
and added that there Is always demand in such
croeheted slippers ngSgo%Gnsss sGss magazines soft
beef tea jeliss and fruits, while chiidren's TOYS
ceptable. S are "e-
Sesame Club. is the lines OF the PestaIozzi
Froebel House. of Berlin. Germany Everything
pertaining to woman's work Is taught In a free
child garden connected with the institution
training is given in the proper clothing feeding and
caring for children three mornings of each weak
nt.hE devoted To- II. The other three are spent In
- oiu9 70 Is composed of men and women and is one
OF the largest societies Of the kind in London
1t is generally supposed that the first congress- n,
women was held in Chicago in 1898. On the con-
5rS [Tafy; the ne, nrst congress- Of women in Paris
Phalo celebrated her twenty-hrst birthday last
week at the Savoy. Breakfast and bououets-
oInFpmise % speeehes-made an interesting pro-
downtown restaurant. that prides itself upon
its high poriticn-on the twenty-tbird storv-vv.s
en- greatly to the amazement and somewhat to the
discontinue OF the men who frequent il and came
Post st % Pe, seats occupied The
See1 vstn me & guidance Of Miss Adele Felde had
The richmond womens Club. OF Virginia. held
meeting last week to discuss the desrabiIity- 90
Joining the General Federation Of Women,s C,irhs
The POSSIBILITY of meeting colc.ed women on a
social basis was spoken OF a strong ohtectip a,d
the club adjourned without taking a1y sctioL anu
Mrs. Theodore Sutro. well known club wonar
OF Riverside Drive and One-hundred- and second
ST.. who broke her eardrum in a If M snaazir, .
January 3, has been compelled 10 postnons her
musicals. @P'''0 N0i
The next meeting OF the National Congress of
Mothers will be hsld In Columbus Ohio ON NAV
p. q. % and "a The City Federation OF women's
Clubs and the Board OF Trade. In Columbus have
undertaken all local arrangements for the meet
ing. and every attention to the comfort of guests
will be afforded. Hotel and boarding house rates
will be reasonable. and railroad rates, although
New-York tribune., 1901-02-03

"Children's Street Games as a Social Influence -
The Results OF SOciastic Committees"
Professor c. Z. PelIew gave "A lecture the other
day 10 students of chemistry upon the manufac-
tuTe of liquefed air and It's practical uses.
The AlumnR Association Is showing an interest
in athletics AT Barnard. II recently commits
stoned a member 20 interrogate undergraduates as
to the present state and future outlook OF shat
branch OF college activity. The Columbia gym
nasium is now open Barnard girls on Monday
and Thursday evenings.
A committee has been appointed by the trustees
o consider the need Of students hall. which shall
suDpIv a comfortable place for study and rest be-
tween lectures for students who live far from the
college. Such a building is strongly advocated by
Professor Robinson the acting dean.
New-York tribune., 1901-02-03

bodice, TOO. is simple. as one might expect from
the eaborateness Of the material used. The bro
cade makes the back Of the corsage with no break
the way Of belt sash AT the waistline- The
front Of the corsage IS OF pink panne. covered
with jetted net. and arranged blouse between
the scarf ends. which the principal feature OF
the gown. The scarf Is Of ecru lace with pink
chiffon roses with jet centres sewn over II. IL
makes first of all Tiny strap sleeves, then passes
down the CoIsage TO the Waistline, little al one
side, then falls nearly 10 the hem OF the skirt
In giving the second example II Seems best 10 ct-
scribe the sash before the gown, for the sash Is
really conspicuous. II Is Of white mousseline de
sole dotted with gold and il is carried about the
waist o one side and allowed 10 fall in two fun
ends the bottom Of the skirt At intervals are
wreaths Of small artificial roses three Wreaths In
an through which the sash ends carried. This
pretty trimming is used on dacng froek OF yellow
crepe de chine dotted with white. The skirt IS
made with a narrow shaped hounce and gathered
behind into bunch Of small tucks that spread out
into a slight train. The decolletage is trimmed
with scarf of white mousseline de sole. dotted
with gold. and trail OF small roses. The sleeves,
which consist only Of band across the upper part
OF the arm. are of roses mounted on a twist OF
mOusseline de sole.
SLEEVES FOR EVENING GOWNS.
Some slight attempt at a sleeve has been the rule
on evening gowns this winter, but often il amounts
to hardly more than a strap. However. this goes
New-York tribune., 1901-02-03

popular. The Empire gowns not much~yorn.
They appeared among the seasons models. and.
Empire effects in long wraps popular, Il
was naturally expected that they would be
cessful in evening gowns But few to-day
wear the Empire gown with grace. French women
realize this, and anxious, a a rule.
make the experiment. However. hear that the
Empire gown is very popular in London. both for
full evening dress and in the high necked variety
But Paris and London rarely agree to fashions
For the spring the light weight cloths in the soft
pastel shades appear An excellent
trimming for these is stitched bands of silk in the
color in white. Bands Of white silk on
light cloths general bands Of black on
dark stuffs. a charming costume that has just
gone Nice is OF pale. grayish blue satin cloth
trimmed with stitched bands Of white silk and
small buttons covered with white velvet. There IS
~
New-York tribune., 1901-02-03
TO PERFUME THE BREATH

Breath Perfume, invented by John p Bender
No. 200 Centre-st., y. Y. II is guaranteed TO
impart a dencate, Nloletlike fragrance 10 the
inCm boxes So PTettily decorated as 10 serve
perfectly as bonbonnieres. The Floral Leaves
Breath Perfume is already extremely ,onular
owing 10 It's dantiness and wholesome onsli
tier. and Tribune readers will be glad TO learn
that Mr.. Bender viii send IL 10 any address
without extra charge, on receipt of 10 cents
Mr. Bender viii also send very pretty satin
book mark with illustration OF n famous paint
ing for only cents I'm stamps.
New-York tribune., 1901-02-03
CHANGES IN SLEEVES.
PARTISAN GOWNS TENDENCY
TOWARD EARLY VIC
TORIAN MODES
TORIAN MODES.

Paris January 25.
conspicuous feature OF the new frocks is the
length and the importance given to shoulders
Shoulder seams are long, and all ornamentation in
the way Of yOkes elongated collars is carried
well over the AS / have said before. an
sleeves begin small and grow larger toward the
bottom, fact which further Increases The i'm
portance OF the long shoulder
The round collar. the Louis XIII collar. as il
Was FIRST called. has by its popularity intensified
the liking for hong shoulders. There is also ten
dency toward the modes of the early Victorian
period when shoulder seams went Wei over the
arms Berthas, which are fashionable give the
same dropping efe . and, in fact when one puts
aside the shirt waist and the conventional tailor
made costume there is little left thar does not
give this same long, dropping appearance. II is
more than possible that women viii tire OF it, and
THAT II VIII last for only the small part Of year
IL will not affect tailor made suits or certain
style OF outing waist hut one may expect TO the
long shoulder scheme carried on every other
sort OF garment. However. II win be responsible
Tor lot OF pretty effects in thin stuffs and quite Ia
place on summer musins
For the early spring a change from the skirt
and jacket suit one may well order blouse with
cape collar. pretty suit OF this is made OK
a lightweight cloth in reseda green. trimmed with
sscru lace and dark green velvet. The blouse opens
10 show a very narrow vest OF lace with pattes of
velvet on each side and the tiniest Of gold buttons
over the shoulders is q deep cape collar trimmed
with two rows OF lace edged with folds Of the
velvet. The sleeves flflled into little bell cuff
Of velvet. opening trIfe a tight under wrist
hand OF lace. This sleeve Is really novel The skirt
has few peats the sides, held by several velvet
pattes and small buttons and is 20 fare well
az the bottom. To complete this costume should
he gloves OF the darker green and low crowned
hat with a dropping brim
pretty idea on these cape collars which prom
ise 10 be so modsh is 10 have them closed in front
with a series Of pattes or To lace with lattice
1yOrk NJ rib l.,
perhaps the newer. This recalls a model that has
no particular claim 10 distinction the trim
ming on the cape collar This collar is cut or
slashed in front and the shoulders and the
three openings are closed by lattice trimming Of
fine velvet ribbon and the tiny gold buttons that
are so much used However, this lattice work
trimming is so popular nov that il is used i'm all
sorts Of WAYS.
New-York tribune., 1901-02-03
"OLD FIFTEEN MONTHLY"

"Old Fifteen Monthly is the unique title OF the
organ Of the College Literary Society of Public
School No. Is. at No. 72s FTfth-st The paper was
started In the interest Of improved English and
New-York tribune., 1901-02-03
FANCIES IN sAsHEs.

Although one sees few Wristbands, sasnes are
very conspicuous Those that are accordion pleated
are for some reason, considered slightly out OF
date, although accordion pleats are used in other
ways. silk bands added 10 lace mousseline
shshes. those with rounded ends being most in
favor. Sash ends may, OF course. properly contain
any amount Of rich embroidery and trimming. A
pretty fancy Is the bottom OF each end a wreath
OF flowers made of silk gauze mousselne de sole
in the proper cOlOrs This idea has been de-
scribed in previous letters in detail an orna-
mentatiOn to the bottom OF dancing skirts. These
mousseiine flower wreaths may be made most
elective by the addition OF spangles, tiny pearls
brilliants
sash ends need not necessarily fan down the
back OF the skirt they are perhaps more orna-
mental when used in other ways. On the two fol-
lowing evening gowns. sashes are used in rather
unusual fashion,
dinner gown OF -ream white satin, with yellow
brocaded Il. I'm addition 10 a vine pat
tern, done In fine black jets than ali over the
stun. has the trained sAirt absolutely plain The
New-York tribune., 1901-02-03

Is especially designed with reference the popular
long wasted effect and can be cut round with
the dip as preferred the pattern allowing for both
styles If desired the applied band facing can
oe omitted and the edge finished with narrower
faced hem.
Ihe model is cut in ankle length, but the pattern
provides Tor the longer tnstep length we'll
TO cut this costume for a woman Of medium
size hVe ana one-eighth yards ~ inches wide, or
Iour ana one-quarter yards 80 inches wide, will be
required when the circular facing is used four and
three-eiShths yards "A inches wide three ana
ohe-half yards 80 inches wide when the edge IS
hnished without facing. To the jacket alone
Two yards OF material - inches wide. one ana
nVe-eighths yards 90 inches wide will suffice; 20
cut the skirt alone four Yards - inches wide, or
three and one-half yards 80 inches when facing Is
used three and one-quarter yards - inches wide, or
three and One-eighth yards % inches wide when
facing is omitted.
The pattern No 3,715 is cut in sizes for S2 "a,
80, ~ and 10 inch bust measure.
The pattern No. S,6,5 is cut in sizes for % "a
70, y. 30 and 81 inch waist measure