Washington sentinel., 1901-06-01
Food and Wines.

Aander. Mr.. Pohndorf writes:
AT different times and meals th
impressions of the taste Of one and tn
same good wine. preferably claret, ar
not the same. What generally please
and tastes excellent may on some occa
siops appear too acid or acrid, or other
quite insipid, and again absolutely IN
pleasant. The cause OF these change
is easily traced to the distinct nature Q
the solid food consumed with the wine
Evidently sauces made OF ingredients o
decided acids or of piquaut taste, beets
tomatoes, viands profusely sated, pep
pered, spiced, or sweetish, influence tht
palate to the momentary loss of the
faculty to accurately distinguish the true
taste and flavor OF a wine drank there
with. To value, appreciate and enjoy
the wine, the solid vlands ought to taste
comparatively neutral. The fluid accom-.
paniment must correspond to the solids.
Thus, no red wine contain ing more or
less tannin barmonizes with oysters or
fish, nor sparkling wine with the roast
or with meat generally.
1t is comparatively easy to restore the
normal condition OF the palate after
eating anything that affected its sensitive
nerves. A few morsels Of bread will do
It, eaten before taking the wine glass in
hand And here the remark may be
opportune that, as the cultured know,
the delight OF imoibing a mOdicum of
good wine is heightened by FIST inh iling
IFS fragrant ethers. its bouquet
where the sensation of a change in
the taste OF wine is directly attribut-
able to the liquid itself, the cause is its
temperature. Too often the axiom is
sinned against that a red wine should
never be drank cold And against that
other: Cool the potation Of white wine.
And. speaking OF rules, It is regretta-
bic that that ancient and wise English |
adage is so generally ignore which |
advises never drink without eating, and /
never eat without drinking. or course,
with moderation.
In red wines the astringent ttannic) /
element at a low temperature becomes
disintegrated. The composition of such
wines is the reby disturbed to degree
that a precious chateau claret, chilled,
has its taste and perfume lowered to the
equa OF that Of a common piquette.
Turning to rules about difTere mt wines
suited to the courses of the meal, tpay
be promised that so called Appetizsrs
should never oe sweet. Nonbelievers
in the questionable virtue of such slim.
uiators for awakening a dormant appe.
tite consider them superfiuous. Anyhow
they should be accompanied by the
lightest of preprandial collation.,
Alter or with the soup, according to
its nature, a small glass of old sherry,
Madeira, or rich Burgundy is in the
proper place. And anv of these wines
may be slipped with the hors d'oeuvre.
With the fish or oyster course use a
dry Sauterne, Rhine or Moselle wine,
a Spanish Man camilla, or MOntilla,
Avoid sweetish Sauternes Equally, do
not serve with fish any red wine. The
latter may be in place with the entrees, ,
With the roast great liberty is granted n
In the choice OF wines. Burgundy or
cIaret of lighter construction, white .
wines, be they from the Rhine or the ?
Iaronne or any Of the California repro f
auctions Of those originals, dry or rich p
Amontillado, any Of them that pleases, n
comes in we'll One of the pleasantest | r
red wines OF Bordeaux characteristics N
S Rioya claIet from Old CASTLE, OF "
course, the highest land withal cheap) z
1ind halls from the vineyards of ex-
Express Eugene on the banks of the e
sbro in Old CASTLE. H
OF wines to accompany the desert a
ruits, jellies, &c, the choice is equally -
'ast. Champagne chimes in here as in
IS legitimate place A glass OF rich old
BORT sherry, Madeira, Tokay, &c is in
likewise relished at that final course A G
ew crackers and cheese, with any Of 3,
hose wines topping of the meal. will ST
brighten the zsst of the beverage. &C
The menu of the banquet on May - ar
ast at the column salon of the palace in n
fadrid to celebrate the young Kings
irthday consisted OF consomme du roi,
RENE de Paitues princesse. canetons a
! reine, saumon a la chlmbord, fIet m
supreme de canetons liG
eyillane. chandfroid d'ortolons, sorbet Il
y vim de Porto, poulardes truaes, ter v,
mes de Strasbourg a la gelee, salade, an
sperges holandaises, petites infantes ce
u chocolat, mousse royale au the. The
ines were Royal Court SoIera Sherry.
lola Claret Chateau Pontet canet,
hateau d'Yguem, Bourgogne, Rudes tn
elmer, champagne, and Old Brown RI
berry. No liquors, but black coffee a. a.
A lew words vet in justice to two m,
merican wines, First, that several Jul
rands OF native champagnes, or, If the
ctum OF France is to be obeyed,
'arkling wines deserve greater consid w
-ation on the part of good patriots Bs
Ian is hitherto granted them. Several JeI
our makers, who, in the strife for pr
premacY, ferment now IN the bottle ul'
e most delicate and appropriate wines,
i've achieved splendid results. The ,
.riod of former times OF tentative pro- r
lction is past, and a number of really po
,od American sparkling wines can 10
ell take the place of foreign ones that uaii
st more than double their price ~
Next among the number OF very good
tive port wines, those pressed from
e Norton Virginia Seeding grape Tr
md at the head. And the very first Su
ace is due those ports made in this Mo
" for years from Nortons, grown in Az
/