New-York tribune., 1901-03-24

ago thought that garments made in the United
States were of the backwoods type. that Ameri-
can styles We're worthy of notice.
our fashion plates" said John J. Mitchell, Of
THE Sartorial Art Journal now go 10 all
parts of the world. and men who go to tailor
shops in London. Paris or Vienna for clothes are
liable to have them cut after patterns furnished
by us"
The coming spring seasons styles for mems
clothing have been published and some men who
are ambitious to be the first to wear the latest
thing We're seen in Fifth-ave. and at fashionable
restaurants TWO weeks ago wearing garments
of the spring of 1901. In speaking of the new
styles. The Sartorial Art Journal" says:
If there has ever been time in the history Of
the world when men should be well pleased with
themselves from the SartOrial point OF view that
time IS the beginning Of the twentieth century.
The last fall and winter season Of the nine
teenth century reached greater heights Of ex-
cellence Of mems clothes, both in point of art
and utility, and brought a greater variety of
styles that We're in every way desirable than
any other season in the century did. and il
seemed unreasonable TO expect that the first
sartorial season of the twentieth century should
reach a higher excellence or increase the varietv
But the unexpected has happened.
Dame Fashion has conjured into being more
styles In mems outer garments for the incom-
ing spring and summer that distinctly differ in
expression than she ever before created by her
magic touch, and every style comes nearer per
fection in its combination of artistic and useful
qualities than any Of its prototypes or forebears
The most important change is in coats which
have an increased waist length especially no.
ticeable in sacks. This change is said bv taflors
to be necessity because of the abnormal width
OF shoulder which is also a characteristic of the
spring coat
Makers Of fashions say that the revival of the
broad and high shoulder is simply a reflex OF the
cs,S,i pf tI
the skirted coats will be straighter than they
We're last season. This will give the wearer the
appearance of greater erectness Another
change is the modification of the extreme waist
tightness and bell shaped bottom spring which
were fixtures OF last seasons coats The corset
fitting coat had many friends last year. but tbev
could not make II as popular in the United
States II is in Europe, where the dandy
military man. has paved the way for thar st,,Ia
Of garment. Mems trousers which were peg
shaped last season. viii conform this sprin,
with the leg of the wearer to some extent Tba
spring trousers VIII be less wide at the knee
than they and will be larger at the hot
tom.
Waistcoats will be worn single and doubIa
breasted but the pointed bottom will be less
popular than II was last season. A new thing I'm
waistcoats will be a 'skirted" garment. which
will be worn with golfng costumes. This gar
ment will be single breasted, with no collar, and
viii close with five buttons. The skirt will he
short and sharply cut away below the seam
This waistcoat originated in Scotland and maxi
ers of outing garments think it will never he
come popular in this country. Striped flannel
will be worn almost exclusively for golfing The
coats viii be made sack shaped, with breast
pockets patched on and closed with a ly The
trousers large about the hips shaped 10 the
leg with average knee width of eighteen inches
In evening dress for spring and summer one
OF the novelties VIII be the single breasted white
waistcoat. 1t will not be considered out of placa
TO wear the double breasted garment but fash
ion makers think that it belongs TO the fall and
winter wardrobe and should be laid aside until
that time. The roll of the evening coat will he
longer and lighter than heretofore, and the shawl
roll will be worn less than heretofore the peaked
lapel. silk tnlShed. taxing It's place For dav