davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1901-12-21

PARIS, December I, 1901.
Every one is deep in the selection of holi-
DAY gowns and garments. All the women
you meet on the streets have absent-minded
expressions as If they were engaged in
dreams of cuttings and fittings. Innings and
laces. As one catches snatches of their con-
versation the monotohy of it is impressive;
all on the same subject-Christmas finery.
Several really novel touches have been
introduced on holiday frocks- Persons Of
moderate means expect to wear their gowns
after Christmas and New Year have passed,
and so cannot afford to go extensively into
holly and mistletoe apphques and embroid-
cries as ladies of the great world can. For
that reason they demand some unique ideas.
A great many fancy dresses are ordered
for holiday costume balls, and the tendency
OF most of the modstes is 10 supply gowns
of the Henry ", Louis XIV and empire
periods The popularity of the costume ball
will not languish so long as women look
we'll in patches and powder.
Quite smart effect is impaired to even
ing gowns by the use Of apphqued knots
and lines of velvet ribbon winding over the
satiny surfaces i'll graceful, vinelike lines.
Such decorations cannot he too highly es-
teemed by ladies of slender figure, but
should be pruportionately Stunned by stout
women. The long, slanting black bands
emphasize too strongly the ample curves
Of women Of pronounced embonpOint.
1t was for this reason that l tried to dis
suade my plump friend, Nine. Dicearque,
from investing in a very alluring dinner
robe of this type importunately urged upon
her while we were seeking something ap-
prOpriate gOr her to wear at the Christmas
banquet which her rich bachelor uncle gives
for his clients and intimate men friends.
Nine. Dicearque is the only female rela-
tive with whom he is on speaking terms,
and so she is always asked to help enter
tain the wives of the guests on those rare
occasions when he expands into a show of
hospitality. To her it means expenditure
which she can i'll afford. for. in spite of
his penurioUsness. the old man has an eye
for smartness. and is not backward in let
ting 1t be Known that he likes to see
weil-dressed woman at the head of his
board AS Nine Dicearque is nervously
anxious to look her best on such occa-
sions, in the hope of sOfteuing his heart
into literally remembering her in his will
she always enlists the assistance of some
Evening star., 1901-12-21

the beautiful ruching that extends the
width of the edge of the skirt adds a little
to the apparent height, but you would
better try something else"
Her Final Choice.
Finally Nine. Dicearque decided to buy
a gown of point d,alencon made over trans
parent stuffs. with high Louis XIV cein-
ture In silk and upon the front quartet OF
glittering buttons half hidden by deep vel
vet revers embroidered with paillettes and
chenille. The skirt, with its sweeping lines
and weIl-shaped train, was trimmed with a
narrow flounce of the lace, a sash of silk
to match the ceinture falling from the waist
behind. The sleeves mere bands Of silk,
were trimmed on the under sides with two
frills of narrow lace.
The bodice, which closes in the back, is
at the end of it's reign. Such waists look
best on slender figures of faultless outline.
The slab-sided, or short-waisted, female is
a horror in one of these. No matter how
well they may look IN the front, the straight
line of buttons in the back is not in The
least ornamental. The excuse for the in
PRODUCTION of the waist with closed front
was that it was otherwise impossible to
successfully apply to the front the inser-
tions and appliques which fashion requires.
OF course, all this is the sheerest nom
sense, for the waist could be fastened at
one side so that the keenest eye could not
guess just how it was secured. After all,
Evening star., 1901-12-21
GROWING SAVORY HERBS.
A Kitchen Window Garden and It's
Possibilities.

| Written for The Evening Star.
| The secret of a contented cook Is the
| kitchen window garden. Upon many other
! counts it is we'll worth while. No matter
| who cares for 1t, house mistress or maid
| it can be made the source of infinite pleas
| ure and no little homely comfort The wise
| folk who labor in east side tenements say
| they always labor hopefully where there is
a f0e-escape garden, showing pot herbs or
| sweet herbs, or rampant squash and melon
| vines or even straveling stalks of corn.
They say, further. these missionaries. that
often a growing plant proves their very
best auxiliary, and preached day and night
a helpful gospel of cleanliness and cheer.
The possibilities of a kitchen window gar
den are almost as wonderful and as various
as those of humanity itself. The moist,
warm air suits all manner of growing
things. The garden, of course must have
the sunniest window, and, if possible, also
the warmest one Have it fitted with
shelves rather far apart and as high as can
be conveniently reached. Ordinary wooden
| boxes with zinc trays underneath to catch
the drip are best. They should be just
long as the shelves and of varying depths.
The deepest, therefore the heaviest, should
be on the lowest shelf, which should be of
such height as to bring the box surface
level with the window. Plant in this box
sweet herbs-it will give space for supply
as plenteous as it is varied In between
their roots radishes may grow. The next
box should be given over to pot herbs
green celery, parsley and all their ilk- A
pinch of kale seed or mustard seed sprin-
kled over every month or so, will provide
supplies of tender greens all the year
round. A clump of chves may fill one cor
ner, knot of leeks another. Tiny onions
may be stuck down in the earth, and
plucked for eating as soon as they are full
of sweet growing juice
Give the third box to salads-lettuce and
and its kind. Sow radishes in the lettuce
rows and pick out either for green herbs
or roots as they grow. And in the last two
of the boxes one may grow flowers-either
using them as seed beds for later plantings
or filling with some such perennial favorite
as nignonette or sweet alyssum or lusty
geraniums, both sweet scented and flower
ing.
Water the boxes whenever the earth
looks the least dry on top.@ Fill them with
the richest earth and give fortnightly
supply of liquid manure Put fresh earth
every autumn in the boxes of vegetables
and give the sweet herb bed thick top
dressing of earth well as the LIQUID
manure.
Evening star., 1901-12-21
Sleeping Apartments.

Eight hours out Of the twenty-four, one
third Of every day. are spent in sleep.
Twenty years Of absolute Inconsistencies
in an average human life! How much the
usefulness and extent of that life are de-
termined by the quality of the air breathed
while asleep who shall say?
Twenty years Of soft, unconscious respi-
ration, not the vigorous breathing Of active
consciousness; twenty years Of semi-as-
phyxiation. of repeated inhalations of ones
own effete, tainted breath mingled perhaps
with that of another; twenty years of car
bonic acid poison, or twenty years of life
giving ozone--which will you choose? Think
of it every night when you go to bed.
"Close bed rocms,' says DR.. Hall, make
the graves of thousands"
There is a tradition to the effect that
night air is injurious. What air can you
have at night but night air? No noxious
gases arising from the earth's surface at
night, where there is no sunlight to dissi-
pate them. are half SO deadly as the. emana-
tions from the body.
If air were taxed We should probably use
1t more layishly to get our moneys worth;
but, being free. we are content to take it
as we doHs some medicines, in homeopathic
doses -.ls- ss-=
Evening star., 1901-12-21

with oatmeal and keep them in the wash
stand drawer ready for use. Place one Of
these In the water few minutes before
washing, and you will find it pleasantly soft
and its cleansing properties considerably
increased.
A few drops of ammonia In the water sof-
ten it nicely and help to remove stains
from the hands.
A good piece Of soft wash leather with
which to rub the face after washing helps
to keep the complexion smooth and white.
Do not buy cheap hair or tooth brushes
II you have little money to spend on a
hairbrush, don't get one with an orna-
mental back and inferior brfstles. but rather
choose one of plain wood with the best
quality bristles.
What is wanted Is brush which, with
out being too hard will penetrate thor
oughly, so that each hair is subjected to
Its cleansing influence. To enable it to do
this the bristles must be of uneven lengths.
Keep the brush thoroughly clean, and when
1t becomes worn and the bristles split buy
a new one. for broken and split bristles
catch in the hair and do it much damage.
The ideal toothbrush Is not hard enough
to cause the gums to bleed, and it's bris-
ties are firmly fixed. In cheap tooth
brushes the bristles usually seem made to
come out, and they do, getting fixed be-
tween the teeth in a most uncomfortable
ana annoying manner.
Evening star., 1901-12-21

dent to the vocal training OF singers ana
elocutionists.
The first thing to acquire is breath con-
troL Learn to manage what you have
then increase your supply. This Is accom-
plished by building up power TO hold ones
breath. lnhale slowly and smoothly as
much air as possible. swelling out the low
er chest at the sides just below the arm
pits as air is drawn in. Hold this air five
seconds, measuring the time with foot
steps; then exhale II all slowly and grad
ually, continuing to breathe out until YOU
feel empty. During the exhalatlon keep
the upper chest still: don't let Il sink In
haze again and hold the breath for ten sec
onds. Exhale fully; inhale again and hold
for twenty seconds. This is long enough
for the first trial With ten minutes a day
practice, within a few weeks a month.
power may be gained to hold the breath
without effort for forty-five seconds.
breathe Deeply.
Rapid and shallow breathing is strictly
unhygienic. 1t leaves a large portion OF
the lungs entirely unused. and part OF the
air in them unchanged. Deep breathing
Strengthens and increases the muscles of
the chest and the abdomen. The abdomi-
nal muscle directly overlies the intestines
and its motion stimulates the whole digest
Evening star., 1901-12-21

I've apparatus, thus contributing TO It's
healthfui activity. To the woman bur-
dened with too much flesh, deep breath
ing is absolutely essential as one of the
best cures for obesity, as the Increased
amount of oxygen greatly augments the
consumption of waste material. 1t must
be pure air and sunshine, however, that
are breathed in to have the desired effect,
In shallow breathing the blood does not
get all the oxygen it needs in order to
burn up the waste matters in the body. To
ascertain the capacity of the lungs find out
how often you draw a full breath Can
you. when standing with the arms ana
hands extended before you and taking a
full inspiration, touch the knuckles behind
the back without the tendency to coughP
Can you touch the backs of the hands az
all in this position. or even make the ell
bows meet without assistance?
Important Details.
In walking the foot must never be so
placed as to allow It to rest upon the outer
edge. 1t must not be allowed, either, 10 rest
upon The inner edge. but in each and every
position 1t must be firmly planted on the
ground. People who walk on the outer
edge of the foot appear more or less ape
like; those who walk on the inner edge look
as though they were splay-footed. The toes
should not be excessively turned out. The
whole movement should be elastic, avoid
ing, on the one hand, the appearance of
stiffness. and on the other that of springs
in the knees, which should not be bent in
walking.
Carry yourself, in walking so that q
plumbline dropped from your nose would
fall just an inch in front of your great
toe. is the advice of one who speaks ex
cathedra. with this added: Don't thrust
your head forward, don't bend your knees
in walking and remember that high-heeled
and narrow-toed shoes are the infiexible
enemies of grace.
Avoid the Golf Walk.
The walk of all walks to avoid is the
''golf walk" a loose-tointed stride, flap
ping arms, a ''poked" head and neck, and
queer fiat-chested carriage being its lead
ing characteristics
Some women have the habit OF Jerking
the head forward at each step, like a hen,
performance which is most ungraceful.
Bunching up the shoulders and swinging
Evening star., 1901-12-21

both arms rapidly backward and forward.
like ship which has broken loose from her
moorings, are also to be avoided Another
popularity is that of jerking the shoulders
alternately at each step, as If propellins
the body forward
Men have been known to lose their hearts
all on account Of graceful, fetching walk.
An Englishman who was so attracted by
the superb carriage and gait Of Ameri-
can girl as he walked from church behind
her. never rested until he had been intro
duced. with the sequel that they were mar
ried and lived happily ever afterward. Let
this be a word to the wise.
A person, of course. cannot alway be
conscious of his breathing. but with care
he can train himself to the habit of breath
ing deeply and properly. The sense of WELL
being that this practice gives Is ample re-
ward for the slight labor involved. Above
all, let 1t be remembered that the nose, not
the mouth, Is the breathing apparatus
Breathe In as much sunshine as possible,
this, with pure oxygen, is a remedy for
nearly all the Ills to which flesh Is heir.
Evening star., 1901-12-21

buttons are as splendid as they are novel.
Counterfeit emeralds sprinkled over the front
OF rich velvet gown of dark green TRIM
med on the bodice with great deal Of
lace and ermine was one of the most effec-
tive uses to which have seen the jeweled
buttons put.
than the velvet, and so helped to bring out
its rich tones. This contrast In tints and
shades Is one of the happ.est effects en-
ployed at the moment. 1t Is exceedingly
restful after the brilliant contrasts which
have been the rule for so many seasons.
At recent wedding the same idea was
carried out in the bridesmaids gowns of
fine, shimmering stuffs in all shades of
exquisite leaf green. At the brides home
the decorations were all of the most deli
cate greens, with maidenhair fern for
, foliage. Green orchids were used in the
bridesmaids bouquets, each cluster being
| tied with a knot of bright green ribbon.
New Hair Dressings.
Very few fancy combs or jeweed aigrets
are sold as holiday souvenirs This is
due to the change in the method of dress
ing the hair Now the loose locks must be
knotted at the back of the head in a low
coil in the fashion peculiar to Greek stat
| uary. There is a great deal of waving and
| fiuffing of the hair at the sides, but unless
women are possessed of good features the
fashion Is not a becoming one. Side and
ornamental back combs are no longer worn
A flower or circlet of blossoms in the hair
is about the only ornament permissible.
Glittering uaras and jeweled hair trinkets
are decidedly out Of place on the low cof-
fure
Nothing is more surprising than the
change in lingerie Women wear very little
under their close-fitting gowns, depending
upon heavy wraps to keep them warm.
From the silk stockings which incase her
thinly shod feet to the sheer linen batiste
or muslin draperieS about her body every
inc }c of fhp oil 1fo 1.ae
are inset or appIiqued, but there is no sug-
gestion of old-fashioned woolens to keep
out the cold of winter. The fashionaoly
slender outline of the figure can be attained
only at the sacrifice of comfort and it may
be truthfully said that never have women
been thinly clad as they are this winter.
Silk skirts are sometimes worn, but they
are not considered so chick as the lace-trim-
med ones, because they cannot be com
pressed into such small compass.
CATHERINE TALBOT.
Evening star., 1901-12-21
Walking Naturally is Not Always
Beautifully, Too.
CULFIVAFING A REGAL CLRRIAGE
Climbing Stairs as a Means OF
Acquiring Grace.
BREATHING PRACTICES

Written for The Evening Star
No matter how plain a woman may be,
If she can cross a drawing room floor like
queen she will always be attractive. The
ability to walk well, unfortunately, does
not mean walking naturally, except in one
case out of ten, when the whole physical
sinstrunaent is naturally in tune, and har-
mony or grace results. In the other nine
cases one portion of the body is keyed too
high or too dow, producing physical dis
cord, which we call awkwardness Walk
ing, correct and graceful walking, must, as
"a rule, be- acquired like any other accom-
-pffshment, by study. English women of the
nobility are carefully trained in this re-
spect in order that they may possess a fine
carriage when presented at court.
1t is a matter of tradition that Queen
Victoria owed her regal carriage to a drill
sergeant, who, after making endless re-
spectful suggestions. with no effect upon
his pupil, Mortified her governess and aston
ished her by saying sharply:
A pretty queen you'll make with that
dot-and-go-on gait"
Up went the little chin, back went the
shoulders, down went the elbows and in her
wrath the little princess did prec sely what
the old soldier had been striving to make
her do; but his delighted cry of lust
right was another surprise to her, mas
much as she had been conscious of no mus
cuiar effort whatever. From that time
forth incessit regina.
When one rises to walk the whole body
Evening star., 1901-12-21
OF White R~nvar

The rough, silky white beaver hat. a new
feature of the season, exactly accords with
the present picturesque style of hairdress-
ing. 1t is bent quantity to the head and
raised upward from the face on one side
with black velvet ciasped with antique
buckles, above which is a large black
ostrich plume. The velvet is lightly draped
with black giace and applique, the ecru lace
a fine antique model, and from this springs
an ostrich feather. which, placed on the
brim, dips on to the hair. The new travel
ing cap for country wear. especially for
ladies who shoot. Is OF the yachting head
gear order made in tweed to match anv
costume and has the merit of suiting mid.
dle-aged woman as well as young ones.
Evening star., 1901-12-21

At the first dressmakers shop which we
visited they were showing nothing but
erupire effects in evening costumes. Nine
Diceardue is a person of too solid flesh to
look well futtering about in a diaphanous
empire concOction, l was relieved to
hear her say:
'Oh. monsieur. my good uncle Is a most
ardent roydlist. Never would he permit
me to appear at his table in the costume
OF that period representing as 1t does the
humiliation of royalty"
We fled while the fOrewoman indignant
ly shook out the chiffon folds Of the dainty
Josephine robe. with its lines of gold leaf
embroidery.
At the second shop the smiling forewo-
man introduced us to a white velours cos
tune decorated with appliQued streamers
and knots OF black velvet ribbon. The
model who Wore it was a .statuesque crea-
ture, with the carriage of queen. and
on her il was admirable. Why is 1t that
every woman fancies her own figure the
only Cne suited to bring out the charms
OF a sartorial gem? Scarcely did she spy
the gown than Mime. Dfcearque decided
she must have 1t. and l irnperiled our
friendship by showing her how little II
would suit her contour.
See, said i, the corsage Is cut off at
the waist. and. although that point In
front gives IL added length. the mass of
chiffon roses running down the front of
the pelisse chiffon bodice front gives ii a
thick appearances through the waist which
you. with your well-developed figure.
should avoid. That large black knot Of
velvet ribbon appliqued upon the upper
part of the bodice front further imparts
heaviness. Very pretty are the sleeves
with bands of the velvet over the .shoul-
ders. edged with rows of plated chiffon
ruffiing, but they only add to the width
OF the shoulders. The heavy trimming of
Knots on the skirt OF cream net ON Your
short squire Will dwarf your stature True.
Evening star., 1901-12-21
Novelty in Charity.

From the London Standard.
A novel form Of charity has been inaugu-
rated in Budapest-namely, the distribution
OF bread and milk among children up to six
years OF age. The distribution, which fs to
be continued daily, takes place morning and
evening at shop in a by-street The milk
Is hrss boiled in four large boilers, whence
II runs into cooling apparatus Fifty
children are allowed to enter at a time.
either with their mothers or alone, while
the others wait for their turn in a neigh
boring warmestube (Warming ROOM an.
other charitable institution. These large.
Weil-warmed rooms are found TN MANY
places In Austria-Hungary The children
are told to bring their own mugs for the
milk. but there are drinking vessels for
these who have none, which after use are
cleaned and disinfected. Both the bread
ana milk must be consumed on the prem
ises, and siclxly children receive a second
portion.
Evening star., 1901-12-21

should be thrown into a state Of general
tension, which brings all the muscles into
vigorous action, and so perfectly balanced
that every part does its work without per-
eeptible strain. In this balanced position
| the hips, chin, chest and toes come into a
line: the shoulder, hip and ankle joint are
also upon line; in this position the body
acquires the greatest ease.
| Firm and Free Step.
Take a free and firm but light stride
balancing the upper part of the body al
ternately upon each hip, but without sway
ing it perceptibly, and giving the impetus
forward with slight spring from the ball
of the foot; this gives springy and elastic
step. When the emphasis, so to speak is
Oh the heel, the fatigue of walking is in
creased ten-fold, because jar is thus
started along the long supports directly to
the spine and head. Another thing-and
this is for the short-legged woman to re-
member-the length of the step should be
proportioned to the length of the leg
Walk erectly. This does not mean with
eyes fixed on the stars, neither does il
mean a gait that is a constant beginning
to fall, which does not become a fail only
because the other foot and leg get in the
way and prevent it. A good rule is to
press up with the head as though a weight
We're being carried there" If one thus
stands or walks very little attention is
needed to keep the eyes up, as well as back
and shoulders. This effort to stand erect
ball of the foot, to which. We have already
referred.
Stair climbing as means to grace of
locomotlon is perhaps novel idea but the
woman who has mastered the art of going
UP stairs in truly scientific fashion is the
one who, as to her gait, may be likened
to a Diana following the hounds So enthu-
siastic is one devotee of this theory that she
says:
No Stair WaddIinR.
Place me with my rival in the presence
Of man In whom we are both interested
and the first thing / should do would be
to walk upstairs. This would be the very
last thing she would dare attempt il un-
trained in the art.
To mount stairs properly there should be
no waddling from side to side-none what
ever; no trudging, though the object
We're to push holes in the steps, no leaning
forward and no apparent WEAKNESS. The
body should remain erect, the step should
be taken with the toe, and the movement TO
Evening star., 1901-12-21
FlOrida's Orange CroD.


Florida has crop Of oranges this year
that makes the orange growers Of that
state think the time is near at hand when
the annual shipment Of oranges will ap-
proximate that Immediately before the
great freeze Of 1895. It will be recalled that
during the season before the freeze pretty
nearly 100000 boxes were shipped out OF
the state. The estimate for this season is
100000 boxes. Next year, if nothing in
terferes to injure the trees or the fruit the
crop VIII be very much larger. The trees
that were saved from the freeze are just
now coming into bearing, and every year
they will have an increased yield In the
meantime new trees, mostly planted below
what is thought to be the frost line, are
coming on rapidly. and in the course of two
or three years more will be in bearing. It
Is pretty safe prediction that within six
years Florida will be producing 5000, 900
boxes year again, and, judging from the
number of trees now being planted, 1t will
not be more than ten years before the crop
will be double that number of boxes. 1t is
estimated that the number Of trees that
were planted in Florida last winter ap-
proximated 100000.