New-York tribune., 1901-09-29

Of many men to break over the strict rule, on
account of the ease and comfort of the short
dinner coat?" was asked.
Men who dress well do not break over any
rule" the answer of the fashion maker.
For the purpose OF keeping the dinner coat
where they say it belongs, many tailors are
using a dark Oxford mixture instead Of the
conventional black. This Oxford mixture, is
generally known, has decidedly grayish tinge
and will attract attention if worn out OF its
place. The dinner will have waist
coats of the same material, of some quiet
shade OF fancy silk.
STYLES IN wAISTCOATS.
The full dress coat will be cut as 1t was last
winter. White waistcoats, both single and
double breasted will be extensively with
full evening dress. The single breasted frock or
Prince Albert coat has undoubtedly to
stay, but it will by replace the
double breasted coat which has long been
popular. Frock coats will be worn open show
ing the waistcoat.
Riding suits more IN demand this year
than ever, according to tfth-ave. taiIors
Those who expected to see a falling off in riding
account Of the popularity of the automobile
will be disappointed. The bride paths about
the city never in better condition, and
saddle mounts are in great demand. The new
riding suits will be made in subdued plaids, and
the trousers will be Of the same material as the
coat. Fancy waistcoats may be worn, but the
pattern and color must be mild. The riding coat
will be cut with square front, initiating some
what the frock coat effect Leather buttons IN
black and brown are novelty which is finding
favor in this connection.
With women the automobile is old
story and that has little to do with ma
chine riding. An auto coat for men has made
It's aDDearance however and will be extensively
worn. II is a practical garment, and was
worked out by conference between the tatlors
and several machine owners. London smoke"
is the color used. as IT does not show dust. The
coat is made with the wind sleeve-a double
sleeve catching close at the wrist for the pur-
pose Of keeping out the wnd-and with tight
latch at the throat 1t has double front, so
that get at inside pockets without ex-
posure. The back of the coat is cut like the old
driving coat.
NOVEL HABERDASHERY.
The uptown shops showing many novelties
In fancy haberdashery. There is demand for
the most expensive grades in socks, underwear
and shirtings, and mildness in cOloring which
will make a pleasing change from the loud eff
fects which had vogue during the summer. The
shirt for the winter has a starched front in
spite of the effort to introduce English fannels.
Some OF the latter in mild stripes and small
figures will be with white collars and
cuffs. but the practice will not be general. Stiff
shirts in cOlors will be worn during the winter
for business use, and many neat designs are
shown. The collar which is va1fously known
high turn down." double roll" and wing
'front.' Will be worn more than any other style.
and with every sort of garment except full
evening dress,
silk hose will have the call this winter with
men whose feet do not demand fannels. A
great falling off in the demand for striped and
figured hose is expected by the dealers. The
Z
just plain, solid, old fashioned black-ls large
There will be another effort to introduce white
hose, but dealers believe that the attempt Will
fail, it has in the past. In the fancy lines
the popular hose will have black background
decorated with pale blue, pink or gold. Heavy
| stripes, Scotch paids with their frightful color
schemes. and big polka dots Will be left entirely
alone by all who wish to be well dressed.
Men going to solid looking shoes
with wide, comfOrta BILE toes and broad heels
The styles practically the same as those
by conservative dressers last year. The
extension sole will not be as prominent as II
has been, and button shoes will be still more in
demand Enamelled shoes will be much in evil
dence during stormy weather, they hold
| their shine through a rainstorm and shed snow
nicely. Very few low shoes will be worn after
| stormy weather begins. Last year this fad II
! such the insane idea may be called, was taken
! UP by few young men. By wearing heavy
| woollen hose they believed they could dispense
/ with uppers their shoes II took a series Of
! bad colds TO convince them of their mistake.
Extreme styles in hats. as in other articles
| OF wear, are not being shown this year. The
/ silk hat is bell shaped than last winter
and is built with a heavy round or medium roll.
/ In height the hats run from five and three
! quarters to six inches. with five and seven
] eighths the popular medium. There are no
| brown derbys to be in the windows of
/ color last season. The black derby has a full
! round crown and ranges in height from five TO
| five and three-quarters inches. In soft hats, the
/ Fedora shape with a medium, well rolled brirn
| and fairly high crown will be most sold Most
/ men will be suspicious of the pearl and gray
| shades OF hats although they are undoubtedly
] becoming with certain business suits The SOFT
| hat With wide brim has disappeared as rapidly
/ as it came.