The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1901-01-13
PARIS FASHION LETTER
RAGE FOR FUR GARMENTS AND
TRIMMINGS INCREASES WITH
COLD WEATHER
sEALsKINs ARE VERY SCARCE
Exquisite Designs in Applications on
GOwns-MOtree Lamb Having
Great RoOm-Picture
Hat of Felt.
Special Correspondence of the Globe.

Special CorTesr ondence of the Globe.
PARIS, Dee. 3l.-rhere seems to be no
end 10 the possibilities Of fur garments
and fur decorations, and to be smart
nowadays one must needs have at least
one gown deliberately garnished with
fur, or one outer garment ditto, and d
hat and other accessories to match The
effect is always pleasing, to say the
least, though eccentricities seem to be
the order CT the day. Black gowns, par
ucularly, are charming with fur accou-
trcments, an advantage which the great
costumers are not slow to make use of,
with the result that some exquisite
models delight the eyes. There is Ones
TOR instance, evolved by Doucet for the
beautiful Wanda de BoneZa, whose
gowns are as remarkable as her eX-
quisite figure. This has skirt of b ack
satin cloth made smooth and hanging in
the most approved bell shape, and lined
throughout with heavy black satin of a
soft quality, which foregoes that silllen
rustic so characteristic of ta:feta, which
of late has been tabooed by the fashion,
ab.es as being vulgar. There is, of
course, a flare that is accentuated by a
deep, slightly serpentined ruff1e Of skunk.
The novel little jacket SHOWS that, in
spite of the efforts 10 introduce the
three quarter and long coats, the nobby
eton and. bolero has endeared Itself too
much to the hearts of women to have
lost its prestige. This jacket in questio
is All etOn shape, made of BreitschWantZ,
and lined with black satin, like the skirt.
The opening is faced with skunk, which
forms two huge revers, and the large
faring collar. A dainty touch is given
by the band of gold soutache embroidery
which encircles the 1ur below the bust
and makes a higher line at the back.
The sleeve is of BreitschWantZ, with a
deep cuff of skunk and an undersleeve
consisting Of TWO puffs and rutf1e of
white pledted mousseline do sole over
q lining of old sold satin. The bodice,
of which only small part is visible at
the throat ana chest. is also of old gold
satin yelled entirely with pleated white
mOuSseline de sole, the folds of which
are caught at the waist line in a god
belt with rich clasp, and the high stock
collar closes under the chin with tiny
bow of gold galloon.
The large picture hat is of black fe-t,
faced with old gold satin, entirely yelled
with shirred white mousseline de sole,
and the low crown is trimmed with black
velvet caught with a large gold buckle.
The muf, of generous dimensions and
made of Breitschwantz, with skunk garni
ture, completes the chic costume.
BreItschwantz, or moiree lamb, is hav
ing a great boom, though its unbeatable
beauty is exceedingly perishable. Another
noteworthy costume, made for a New
York neiress, has skirt of gray cloth,
cat in the same simple lines as the one
described before with the placquet con-
cealed in the back seam under an in
verted box pleat. The flare of this skirt
is richly appliqued with heavy white
guipure covered with a design in tiny
rolls of Breitschwantz. The jacket is also
in Elton form, but is double-breasted and
closes with six large cut-Steel buttons.
The sleeves of BreitschwantZ are quite
tight, and end in a deep ruff over the
hand. There are the inevitable revers
ana 1aring collar made of ermine, and
the large muff is of the same fur. A dam
ty tOque forms the compliments of this
toilette. 1t has crown of black
BreitschwantZ and a short brim faced
with shirred white mousseline de sole
and draped with ermine. Two handsome
black and white ospreys are held by a
large beret of white tulle caught with a
> huge cut-steel buckle on the left side
The dearth of sealskin has rather pre-
Guided this handsome fur from the mar
ket, but the fortunate possessors of seal
skin garments are having them remodeled
IN a more admirable form One interest
ing Jacket is of medium length with front
double breasted over the bust but cut
away below the waist line, the closing
being effected by two rich buttons The
Russian blouse effect at the back is gath
cred INTO belt of gold galloon, which
passes under the loose fronts. There is
a wide shawl collar of dark sable, and the
wide shawl sleeves of sealskin end with a
deep band of the same sable There is an
undersleeVe of gold cloth below with a
wrstband of the same rich material The
muff is of sable. and the dainty hat of
sealskin has a brim of sable turned up
on the left side and trimmed with bow
of black velvet ribbon edged with gold
and fastened with a large gold buckle.
Felix FOurnery.