New-York tribune., 1901-09-01
MODELS TO CHANGE LITTLE
FEW DECIDED INNOVATIONS IN STYLES
FOR AUTUAIN-LACE AS TRIMMING
To CONTINUE IN FAVOR.
Paris, August q.

Paris, August q.
The dressmakers have already a few autumn
,.nodels TO show and they are ready to talk about
,.besa and what in their judgment, is to follow
'sbern There seems 10 be no startling change IN
any important respect. Skirts remain close aoout
t1ips and harng the bottom. with perhaps a htIe
less fufiness than the summer gowns show There
are shaped rufiies Of all kinds and sizes; indeed
nos+ skirts have an enlargement at the bottom as
a foundation for the trimming. Tunics. although
they are rarely called by this name are seen' ana
skirts made I'm three. four or even six pieces one
nfove the other. are evidently 10 be fashionable
The tailors are showing as their first instalment OF
autumn models skirts finished WITH two narrow
rather scant shaped hounces. 1t is fashionapIe TO
edge these with a cord or a line OF VeiNet rlpOoh
and to line the hounces with silk OF a contfasuhs
color that may be repeated in the bodlce- Inc
tailors are showing boeros. Women may in
sist on wearing this popular short garment later
but il is understood that both tailors and Dress
makers are make the attempt TO introduce some
thing quite different For the present this garment
IS a short coauettish jacket, with hip pieces and
coattails and made often to show no seams IN the
back This is done by puckering the fulness or the
back under the belt or laying # in pleats. Belts
seem to be a feature OF most OF these jackets, ana
even Of the long coats which made now in thin
stuffs and are expected later on in heavy winter
fabrics.
The few examples OF winter models to be seen
sbov some extremely neat touches OF fur. Very
the srires ending in little tails about the shoulders
This IS on coat Of black cloth. fastened above the
waist with two rows Of sable buttons and opened AT
the throat to show chemisette OF lace.
The most noticeable feature on the models that
the dressmakers have ready the various col
lars that trim the shoulders. Some are Of the
plain circular style that appeared at the eno OF
the spring season. and more are some modihcauoh
of the Marie Antoinette hchu. Some circular lace
collars are sufficiently deep 10 fall half way to
4be elbows and they are made Of a queer melange
OF laces and embroideries on foundation OF
batiste.
The 0cbu collars do not start from the throat. but
merely form a drapery about the shoulders which
NAV he pleared or laid in soft folds, pulled down
sn+o a point behind and tied fastened in front
with falling ends. Another form Of this shoulder
trimming IS called the CapUchin, ana has more
rban 2 suggestion Of hood. The hood part is gen
eraUy of lace attached TO folds or twists OF SIX
or ribbon.
These two popular ways of trimming both sug-
zest lace and one may expect 10 see any amount OF
lace used on autumn and winter gowns But II
viii probably be, # has been this summer, lace
combined with muslin or batiste-
II there is such a thing a fashionable color II
ss this fan 20 be the different tones of light brown
from cream 10 tabac color. This includes Of course
deeD ecru and ochre color. both Of which shades
have been -.articuarly popular this summer. Gowns
of ochre colored cloth trimmed with brown lace
rresent a charming example Of this fashion.
There are no indications that sleeves are 20 be
sny less conspicuous than they were In the spring
A variation on the undersleeve that has been so
long IN vogue IS long. close undersleeve coming
well over the wrist. pretty sleeve is long and
close broken with a group Of little rufies at the
elbows.
An example Of the naodish black and white trim
ming IN this case an embroidery Of fine black silk
braid on white silk occurs an interesting autumn
suit mace OF lightweight cloth in biscuit color The
skirt is made in three parts the shaped hounees
making points in front The shape Of the skirts to
80 tbe Ssciet sins through "A gold buckle on each
shoulder. and falls in double fanlke revers, very
edged with the black embroidery. and . band OF
white and black trims the sides Of the jacket The
belt IS Of white Kid with a gold buckle. The
Sel,ee ~ ~ f5e hind insi referred To- Of white
silk embroidered with black
An Interesting black costume IS OF black wool
muslin with black silk dots in IL, made Up with
panels Of black lace on the front Of the skirt the
panel u lace Is WIDE, but the panels on the SIDES
ter explained entredeux The same lines of lace
trim the blouse and the sleeves, the latter inter
rupied at the elbows by thrHe fnil ruihes of black
gauze edged by narrow velvet ribbon. The round
collar Of lace rests on three similar ruftes The
choker IS 4 scarf OF lace pulled through a diamond
buckle in the back with two little falling ends
prevailing style And also by the blouse bodice
now one means true blouse, really falling a trihe
cloth Of the same tone has the blouse bodice en-
tirely OF the lace falling over belt Of black and
white silk. About the shoulders IS "A capue hin hood
OF the lace resting fold of black and white six
,d r,,Snr1 dow, n, ti1e ,,-sist In, INA I ,3 IN
another bow with the belt. The sleeves have puffs
OF black and white silk a the elbows. but other
wise long and close. The skirt + with a shaped
luffe. headed by a band of lace running up the
sides in panels 10 the waist line.
Neck boas popular they were In the
spring. although they are more apt a. present to
take the form % a wide ruche than that of the
conventional long boa Some of them indeed sug-
Rest exaggerated ruche. the folds however fall
ing more over the shoulders and less about the
face This ruche is extremely becoming and has 10
ends save long strands Of narrow ribbons.
Pleated skirts remain IN excellent gtyle A
novelty Is 20 edge each pleat with a narrow line Of
ribbon or stitched fold Of cloth that may end Al
the bottom IN loop and buttons gray wool
gown rs trimmed IN thfs way with black velvet
both or tie skirt and upon the bodice The latter
has an inserted corseiet OF white lace points ar
ranged - blouse over q narrow belt OF black
1ibbon The upper and lower part OF the sleeve are
make a puff at the elbows
A prominent dressmaker says that pleats wifi be
more than ever used this nutumn. The thin stuffs
go largely In vogue suggest peats and these
promise 70 be Of the most elaborate description.