Evening star., 1901-09-28
BIRDS AND BUTTERFLIES
NEW JEWELRY TAKES THESE
FORMS, AND PRETTY THEY AXE.
Peacocks, Ducks and Snipes Very
Popular Among English Women
Chains Quite Rarbaric in Kind.

Written for The Evening Star.
Birds and butterflies are the quite
models for most of the dainty bits of jew
elry that give the cachet of smartness to
elaborate gowns this season in London.
Happily, also, they occur in such varied
designs and so many degrees of quality
that women who habitually ride in the
buses can wear them quite as well as
those who recline in the elegant victorias
Of Hyde Park. Perhaps the birds are
little more sought after than the butter
flies. In fact, it seems that nobody is any
body in London who doesn't wear as an
ornament a small bird of some sort. Few
there are, indeed, of the feathered tribe
that have escaped imitation.
Even the ungainly body of the young
snipe is set up in tiny rose diamonds to
serve as a catch pin about an inch long.
The English pheasant with long tail feath-
ers Is a favored and graceful design in
precious stones. Lyre birds are reserved
for the hair and behind their spread tails
are placed high, soft aigrettes. These birds
are made both in rhineStones and in dia-
nlonds and cost therefore upwards from
SIS to almost kings ransom. Two, three
or five dainty little swallows crossing on
the wing a parallel bar is not exactly
new design, but it now is certainly having
a second wave of popularity, while small
peacocks. altogether new, are among the
most gorgeous of the bird ornaments.
When not made up of stones these are
| done in exquisite enamel, each eye of the
| magnificent tail being wonderfully true to
| life. Such a brooch was first ordered by
Lady Warwick who has an especial fond
ness for peacocks, and whose flock of white
ones at Warwick Castle have long been one
of the sights of that part of England.
Ducks are not forgotten in this reigning
passion for birds. Nearly always, how
ever, they are made of enamel either
gold or silver, their highly colered necks
and heads cleaning In the light most bril-
liantly. Pouter and fantail pigeons are
among the very attractive and quaint of
the new designs.
As Chain Clasps.
With the butterflies also there is much
variety in the style of makeup, and while
the handsomest ones are costly, there are
others very pretty that come within the
range of nearly all. But always, it must
be remembered, that it takes a certain
type of woman, light, fiower-like look
ing creature, to wear well a butterfly. AL
most every woman, on the contrary, can
find some bird that suits her personality.
fetching way to wear any Of these or
naments is as clasps for some of the nu-
merous chains which are hung about the
neck.
Chains, indeed, instead of being about
| ready to be laid on the shelf, are appar-
emily increasing their hold on the heart
of womanktnd, old and young. 1t would
be difficult to assert just what, that is at
all feasible, is not being hung them.
The present fad is to attach at their ends
a little mirror clevery disguised. The un-
initiated thinks that he sees an enameled
water lily, a beautiful feur de lis, or a
large four-leaf clover dangling about its fair
owners neck This fanciful floral design,
however, pushes open like a locket and
displays underneath bit of looking glass
just large enough for a hasty peep. On
another jingling end is a small round box
Of either gold silver 1t harbors tiny
powder puff, and touch of newness is a
good-sized piece of pink coral set in its
top. In travelling, especially, these re-
cherche kntck-knacks find a field of useful
ness in helping their wearers to keep tidy
and presentable
Along with chains are strings of beads,
both fine and coarse, and of every con-
ceivable color and quality. Sometimes at
their ends they are finished with two quaint
little taSSelS. So abundantly are these
gafly colored beads seen in London and
at the gay watering places as to suggest
barbaric age or the North American
Indians.