The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1901-01-27
SOME Spring SYMPTOMS
Oriental Embr0ideries Will Be a
Special Fad.
Ultra Fashionable Women VIII
Wear Gowns Wrought by Chinese
and East Indin Natives-something
New in the Combinations of Lace
Putty Galore is Coming Shade.

The vogue for Oriental embroideTies is
said to be coming in with rush that will
set all women working with silks. Gold
will be scattered through the design with
silver threads among the gold. Orientals
are capable OF getting effects without
black, but even in their work black is
good and can be introduced in threads of
shining silk or overlaid in a tiny line of
black jet.
The very latest and most ultra of all
dress fads, and one of the most expensive,
is the sending Of gown to China TO be
embroidered. An outgoing steamer took
no less than three Of these dresses, all
made up and ready to be worn save that
they lacked the embroiderer's needle.
These will be taken to the land of the
Mongol and there decorated with Chinese
embroidery and brought back.
One of the features of the real Chinese
embroidery is the presence of animals,
birds, queer crawling things, tiny ILL
shaped beasts, and myriads of small bugs.
These, IL so ordered, can be used spar
ingly and not sufficiently to injure the
design.
The embroidery of India is quite dis
tinctive, but how try TO describe it? 0w
ing to the inaccessibiiity of the country
and the length of time il would take to
get garment there and back, none of the
ultras have as yet attempted the feat OF
sending a gown there to be completed,
but, on the other hand, the India quar-
tiers of New York have been besieged
with visitors and every native India
woman and man is now busily employed
embroidering the gowns that will be worn
this spring.
little fashion that is creeping in is
that Of the intermixture of fine lace and
coarse lace, one often being appliqued into
the other. Another tiny mode is the plac-
ing of ribbon of two coIors under lace,
the two strips of ribbon being sewed to-
gether and covered with lace which shows
the two colors through the meshes. a
strip of salmon ribbon was laid alongside
one OF green satin, and the whole was
then used to border a founce.
Tucks as a skirt trimming. running from
the belt downward, are said to have gone
out of style but you will see them. Many
of the latest importations are trimmed
with them. and the dressmakers in this
country who set the style along certain
lines for the whole world. even for Paris,
predict a tucked season for spring.
hair vogue that is coming in is that
for the wired flower. A golden rose is
elevated upon wire and is fastened in
the couture. There it stands and mods
The gold rose is used upon the bodice and
is very pretty at the belt.
The colors of very early spring viii be
string color and putty color and
these will be used with every variety of
fur. Whole suits will be made up in them
and fur trimmed
The Ts ge for gold is not abating, but 1t
is used more artistically. These great
,Fs oil int
artistic strips and used as trimming.
The day of the spike is at hand. These
pointed ornaments are employed upon
every variety Of ribbon and string that
hangs from the gown. The fiattened spike
or medallion is also seen, and all the
spring We shall rejoice in these trim
mings
It was the French wsshan who discov-
cred the chic of black, When all the world
OF fashion was struggling out of a pris-
matte chaos of color she stood serene in
the very centre of light and allowed its
hrillianoy 10 glance across her The col
ors found resting place in the knot of
black which adorned her and from that
they harmonized the whole.
Black is considered by many who study
color the keynote 10 effect. Unless, in
your color scheme there is a chance to
see black from one viewpoint or another,
YOU may well hesitate before pronouncing
your gown completed.
Straps Of ell kinds appear in all sorts
o. places this year. and are frequently fin
ished at their pointed edges with one or
three small buttons. Several straps, be-
ginning at the shoulder OF a flannel shirt
waist are carried, three or more on each
side. half way down the waist and are
finished with point. pretty way 10
make a waist something Of an entire deux,
Is with satin ribbon and tucks. The waist
is tucked in groups of three narrow ones,
running lengthwise. space Of the width
OF the tucks being left between them In
this is stitched satin ribbon the color Of
the waist. The tucks being narrow. there
IS good showing Of the ribbon. which gives
a nice look to the waist, and il is not ex-
pensiye. The collar to this bodice may be
plain and straight and fastened with a
point at the side and finished with three
little buttons If desired. The sleeve can
be gathered into an inch-and- -half-wide
band at the wrist. which is Tapped over in
a point al the side to match the collar