Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1901-05-30
THE STYLES IN MILLINERY.
Millinery Trade Resview.

favors hats without shaped crowns.
Nevertheless, some OF the latest cre-
ations in broad bf immed hats have
moderately hien crowns, generally
broader at the top. but sometimes
broad both top and bottom and mar
rover between. For these hats any
Insight OF crown from tina medium down
to q slight convexity, not raising IT.
above the brim more than an inch IN
the center, is admirable.
A very dainty hat with this almost
imperceptible crown made of dull
yellow, fancy braids, has the hrim
lifted In front so as to show its under
side trimmed with three rows OF small
pink-and- white pompon roses. The
outside decoration consists Of fancy
lace, the pattern OF which IL composed
of incrus satione of pale blue aud pink
lisse, outlined by dull.go,d cord. This
is arranged so as 20 cover the brim
entirely and overlap IL little in front,
two oval brooches set with turquois
fastening it down ut the back.
Arother hat turned up rather more
at the side than In front, with very
low beret crown. is made of wide
white, crinolioe braids edged with
china.pink grenue. A drapery Of white
tulle, knotted in the front, follows the
edge OF the brin; O white ostrich
feather, fixed in the knot, sweeps off to
the right, while undar the brim on
the opposite side is . pink feather.
A black straw hat with very de-
cided crown is trimmed with four black
feathers in rather novel fashion; they
are fixed to the center Of the crown by
round Jet buckle and curve forward
over the front OF the brim, which Is
bent slightly orer the brow. On the
left is a group Of three. deep-pink roses.
| At the same time the trioorne Is not
abandoned, hut it Is made less rigid in
! form than hitherto, and has new
4 ri, al in the boat shaped toque. One of
| the former, made of bright-red piece
straw, has 10 each OF its three indented
curves bow OF black velyst and n
bunch of poppy buds.
| One Of the boat-form is made up OF
| wide white chip braids into which mar
row black velvet ribbon is interviewer so
| as to form a wide check. This has for
decoration two small bunohea of flowers
placed symmstrioslly on either eide Of
:, the crown that on the right, being
composed of pinkish white. may be
! framed in hawthorn leaves, and the
other of crimson tipped daisies AND
| grasses.
Another of the same shape in
chestn at. eolored straw has a torsade
of pale blue gauze. -scoorde1n. pleated
and then twItseti.- eneirciing the top Of
the crown 90 as TO be visible above the
crown brim. This 10 knotted rather
far back on the right and then carried
over the brim, knotted again, aud fixed
4 tn the outer side, the fringed ends
hanging below.
Ribbon is not so much In request for
smart millinery as 1T was earlier In the
season. But all kinds of wide ribbons
OF merveilleux or taffetRs, plain, shot,
plaid, warp-printed with floral. cash
mere or Persiat natterns are and will
continue to be In much demand for
simple hats and for Juvenile millinery.
Sailor hats, maintained for morning
and country wear, are mostly trimmed
with ribbons In some cases the rib
bon, of plain, is edged with straw braid
to match the hat. For example, a
\ CHESTNUT brown pailasson, the under
4 side of the brim of which is uream.
white, Is trimmed with large bow oil
the latter tint, hordefed with brown
straw. Ribbon Is also put to new
use.-it Ia pleated with lisse and Their
made into hat shapes Sometimes
each strand OF the pleat Is of ribbon,
covered with lisse or tulle.
Very pretty toques are made in this
way which. require very sipmle trim
ming- couteaux suffices. Charming
nacre effects are obtained by using
different shades Of tulle and glact
ribbons.
. There seems to be a decided tendency
to substiiute plain Mechlin tulle wells
for those of fancy tulle during th,
summer. White promises to be mostl,
generally worn, but some milliners arr
advocating celored tulle, to match th,
, flowers used In the trimming OF tb,
hat. White lace wells are as fashiona
BILE as ever, nut they are reserved TO
the simpler styles of hats. Parisian
always wear them when travelling
1 they protect the face better than an,
and have q fresh, tidy appearance.
Binds wings and breasts now var,
a both quilts and flowers in the decora
, tion of outing hats. Especially noticea
BILE on some of the latest of the hat
for serviceable wear are pigeons wings
A model In memory OF turban o
1 fancy fiber braid of stout weave, in tn
! natural sunburp tint. is turbau witt
q low, bi DAD, oblopg oval crown, an,
the brim vide and turned up loosel
all around. Full drapery Of white sill
= null wound around the crown fills il
a the space between the crown and th
y brim, and a pair Of half-folded whit
pigeons wings divide at the front an,
rest ON each side of the crown. A gol
hat, with nedium-tall gored crown Q
stitched and stiffened white line
!, duck, has the brim bound with whit
i silk GALLON, folded white surah aroun
: the crown, with pair Of half-folde
v white pigeons wings stuck in at th
< lett side. A very remarkable sailo
: hat .of a heavy new braid of stou
Il whole straw OF dark rich Mocha coffe
a brown, with medium tall squar
!. Gown, and a fiat brim somewhat wide
1. than the brim generally seen on saiIo
n hats, has a folded wired band OF Nc
" 30 velvet ribbon set up on the edge c
y the crown, confined by a large fame
= gilt button where crossed at the baol
n and set up around the brim at abou
!, the middle of the width, bow he'll
Il by two gilt buttons terminating th
/. band at the back. Two long notified
brown condor. quills are thrust thruug
the bow, one lying within and til
other outside the velvet band on tn
"A brim. smaller sailor hat of fibs
braid in Arab brown has folded drHper
Z around the CROWN OF glace taffeta i
~ nacre tints, and full tuft of willie
II pansies set at the left of front ="
~ There is little reason to doubt tbs
" the reported finding in Chicago OF IA
~ long lost portrait of the Duchess {
10 Deavopshire has given impetus to th
IL restoration to fashion of the style I