The daily morning journal and courier., 1901-11-16

heavy melton and furs, but 1t is the smartest thing that can be put upon ones men for cold weather this season. The coat Is long, loose, heavy, is made of black, is frogged down the front and has a broad collar and cuffs of Persian lamb.
 A waist seam with two olives in the 1 back distinguishes it from a gentle mans coat. With it is worn the black l bell-top silk hat.
 | The garment makes a servant look more or less like an actor or an Anar- { chist, but 1t Is eminently the swagger l thing. Furs have their disadvantages and play havoc with the servants throat and lungs, so the Russian coat is a sensible innovation. With many employers the servants comfort and health cut no figure com pared with the importance of livery de- tails. They insist upon furs,. and seve- ral New York men keep their coachman and footman in heavy melton livery even through the hottest summer be- cause they content that whipcord can not be cut into livery of lines so good as those possible In melton.
 
 mer livery grow more and more liberal, whipcord undress livery being the ac- cepted thing. Gray whipcord in the very dark shades has superseded drab and brown with the elect.
 Drab liveries-which the uninitiated call mode color-are going out for all purposes There was a time when they were considered particularly smart 1 Anothr livery detail is changing. The second mans waistcoat, instead of be- | ing horizintally striped, is now in the | most correct households likely to be of | ploain color. The introduction of the bright striped waistcoat at all clubs and hotels has made it undesirable for private livery.
 Much discussion has ragged around the subject of white leather boot tops; but the best authorities now agree that white kid boot tops and white gloves are quite proper on the box or rumble when the ladies of the house are driv- ing out, but should never be worn by the gentleman's servant. They are particularly suited to the miniature victoria, which is the latest carriage fad among fashionable women. A fashionable fancy of recent seasons is the putting of the second or house man on the box with the coachman. This is often done, even when the es- tablishment boasts footman.
 The man wears his house livery and is in requisition when the lady of the house is in the carriage Presumably he knows her whins and tastes better than any of the stable men, and SO she takes him with her as matter of con venience.
 The Sun reporter, having talked with the man who sells liveries, started out to find the men who wear them. He obtained an interview with an imposing coachman, who is dignitary in his class and speaks as one having author- ity. ,
 "Livery?" said the coachman. They don't know much about livery in this blessed town. There's some fam flies as has a sense of it, but the things you see would make self-respecting coachman or butler sick. They would, hindeed.
 There's no figures here. That's fact, no figures. Hamericans don't ave servants henoueh. You can't ave correct livery hunless you ave servants to wear it right.
 Tiff butler 'as to go down and tend furnace fires and scrub the harea-way he can't keep Is shape. He can't do it, and he can't keep tidy and correct. His clothes gets bout of shape
 Hits the same way with a coach man. F can't keep hup hif 'e's got to hor 1a vto ,E 'ave stable lads and grooms to work for i'm.
 'Then there's liveriee in America, as you was saying; three hundred dollars hit bought to take to fit out coach man, but the Hamerican don't like to spend it. Tiff he does he thinks hit'll last forever.
 "Now there's brooches. White leath- CT breechs Is the thing, not this stock inette, hand there's no use Eoing to cheap brooches maker Hit don't pay, but your Aamerican don't like to pay the price of the real thing.
 Hand when a coachman leaves e wants the next man to wear the hold livery, even if e isn't the same shape. Hit can't be done without cutting over. A man can't be expected to do it. You should choose your eoaehman all the same size and shape if you can, if you're going to keep changing-five feet seven to ten and one hundred and forty to one hundred and seventy pounds. There's your coachman.
 And you must choose your footman smaller, but the same shape. Hameri- cans don't understand that. They get footman any shape so he's small. 'Ow's your backs going to look on the box if the lines of the coat don't 'ari monize? Smaller, but on the same build, remember that.
 '"The buffers shapes himportant, too; and if you are going to put men into silk stockings and knee brooches you must just choose them 'ansome, with legs
 "Hamerican men won't wear court livery They 'aven't any pride in their profession. They're afraid of being guyed. There's a few New York families that go in for court livery. They're all right. They do it well, but they have to ave Hinglish servants. More New Workers would set up court livery hif American men servants would wear it. New York Sun
 
 Going Through the Rapids.-Cholly- Mr Jones, I want your daughter-our