The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-11-10
|What Paris
}Offers in 5
|Styles for ]
|W0men.

Special Correspondence of The Sunday Republic.
Paris, Oct. 21.-This is the season Of
lightweight woods. The dressiest OF
costumes are made Of them.
Their vogue extends throughout the
day-from as early in the morning as
breakfast time to the late evening, when
full dress is in order.
Promenade gowns and carriage cos
tunes are examples Of grace this win
ter, with their long, sweeping ines that
are only possible when wooden stufsI
are Used. Silk, unless 1t be of the sheer,
est possible weave, does not lend ITSELF
SO nicely and readily to the f~ashionincI
Of the ~serpentine skirts, which are the
thing Of the moment. though silk has
always been the fabric dearly beloved
by the Partisan.
When my lady drives along the boule-E
;, wards her equipage is smart in eyeryl
detail-her trap. is painted and up
holsrered in cOlors that fashion an
proves, her coachman and footman are
faultless as to attire, and her gowns are
built just for carriage wear, of course,
The carriage gowns Of light woolens are
studies in art this autumn. |
-Zibeline is an undeniabiy SMART
fabric. 1t is a welcome change FROM
the satin-dnished cloth, of which there
has been such a repetition !
Me1eor crepe "a q .Tough-surfaced MAJ
terial that is hardly heavier than nun,sf
yelling and yet is very much more
durable. As for the veilings, theylare
extremely stylish and effective.
|: Nuns yelling Is here again, butSf TN a
new guise. 1t is woven with such al
wide mesh that 1t permits the bright or
contrasting silk Innings over whiclYit isl
hung to show through more Than
family.
Afternoon gowns Of nuns Yelling In
the soft daytime shades are decidedly
modish. White or cream-tinted nuns
yelling made up over white or colored
silk slips is dainty and desirable for
evening wear. One sees many Of them
In the most fashionable establishments
4hClC IL ttdiAuy NdIltlN enough In
dress this season to suit any one. The
choice lies all the way between the re-
suscitated modes of the Eighteenth Gem
fury and the Middle Ages. Tha: hew
sleeve perhaps better exemplifesS the
borrowing that Is lone from the lash
ions Of the Middle Ages than any other
one item or detail of costuming. This
sleeve fits the arm almost close to the
elbow, and from there lows loosely and
full to disappear in a gauntlet, or the
"Braccie" of the Italian peasant. Many
low bodices have accompanying sleeves
Of this order made of piece lace and
silk. Z
A number of evening gowns Showi
fronts composed entirely of lace filling
straight in one piece from hem to waist
One beautiful and costly gown with
lace front has a train of satin brocaded
In big, bold flowers. The bodice. ts
draped with lace, with lace-fowinS
sleeves caught in a band at the wrist.
Do not think that lace applications
are to be lone away with because thew
have had such a long and extremes
vogue. There is much change, howe
ever, In the makeup of the newest an
pliques. Those of black lace and lee
are very open in design and laid over
white satin. The ecru laces are put
over white satin and are decorated with
black velvet, chenille or black lace
edges. The incrustations of Jet are
going to be much used on handsome
gowns. Those put over the white satin
foundations may appear on a gown of
some sheer material with scrolls Of let.
connecting the large pieces, that may
be in leaf or flower design, the scrolls
alone being worked on the fabric, the
balance being appliqued, the scrolls giv-
ing the effect of the entire decoration
being done by hand. 1t is the French
dressmaker who understands all these
little tricks of giving that desirable air
Of hand work to a costume.
The delicate flet and kindred EN-.
broideries find place on the gowns OF
dainty and dressy sorts.
Gauzy evening gowns boast such ex.
.travagance in embroidery that one must
spend hours in inspecting the detail OF
trimming arrangement il one would
be well informed as to their makeup.
One especially beautiful gown of Orien-
tai satin. a deep pink shade, is yelled
with white net. Down the sides trail
garlands of embroidered pink rosebuda
and foliage, the full-blown roses car
rfed out in gold tissue.
A black silk canvas has medallions Of
tucked silk set into the skirt, with lace
appliques, the upper part of the sleeves
treated in the same fashion, while the
undersleeves are of lace and chiffon
rrchiuDx