The news & observer. [volume] (Raleigh, N.C.) 1894-current, 1901-09-04
Mr.. Oyster in the City
And Why
He Came to Visit Us :

have been coming III
MR.. OYSTER on almost every train
HAS COME since. The delegation
TO TOWN. included the quite
aristocratic cotuits and
Rockaways, the well-to-do New Rivers
and the popular blue points. They came
to town to attend the opening OF the
oyster season, and of course the nrst
consignment of them stopped at Dughl 5,
where their arrival was duly announced
by an electric sign that flashes the magic
word oysters" to every passerby. Later
accessions distributed themselves around
among the other restaurants until now
all are pretty well supplied.
OF course, between April and September
nobody would think of touching an
oyster. but when "a month with an in 1T
arrives" we all make one grand rush for
"the Succulent bivalve." Naturally,
those who are orthodox on the month
with an-r-in-it doctrine always hnd
themselves on September 1st with ap-
petites strengthened by remuneration and
sharpened by anticipation, so that when
what is known as the oyster season opens
with all the formality given it by gorge
Gus announcements on menu cards, even
the passe young thing who went with you
to the theatre sinks into her seat at
restaurant latter the show" and says,
with sigh of content: 'At last the dear
oysters are in again. Perfectly delight
full, isn't it,"
1t is indeed. And that reluctant or
hung on to the tail of September is a
cause of much joy among the myriad who
olun of
greatest gastronomic delights. The
weather is still warm, and September has
days that lend emphasis to the appeal OF
fruit, ices and long drinks; but this does
not prevent oysters from being downed
by the dozen and score wherever they
can be had.
LAS a general rule, there is no very
heavy demand for oysters until after
October 1st. Summer
FASHIONS has habit Of extend
IN OYSTER ing that far into the
EATING. Fall and, to properly
appreciate this she'll
fish, one must eat it in cold weather"
said a prominent restauranteur yester-
day. This is particularly the case if de-
voured cooked Broiled or fried oysters
on a hot day are likely to produce un-
pleasant effects in the system into which
they are taken. Cooked oysters, how
ever are fast passing from the public
fancy for any time of the year Few
epcures eat them nowadays, save at long
intervals. Fire seems to draw out much
of that characteristic flavor which is the
fishs chief charm and draws to it an
allegiance stronger even than that offer
ed the lobster. Iced and on the half she'll
this righteousness is fully retained, and
only then.
ITO eat oysters raw and enjoy them re-
quires practice. Like caviar, the taste
for them in a natural state must be
wooed assduously before won. The Gus
tom of serving them thus at the begin
ming of dinner became general simply
because it got to be kind of fad.
There is a general idea" he continued,
that there are fashions in oysters. that
one year one so-called brand will be in
favor and another the next This is
true, in way but the changes are not
dictated by caprice. Oysters from the
same waters are not of equal fairness and
flavor season after season. And fairness
and flavor are the sole arbiters Of popu-
larity. Blue points are the most con-
sistently desirable oysters, and that is
the reason each successive winter finds
them at the head of menus. The same is
true of the New River oyster.
"Their almost unvarying excellence is
due chiefly to the fact that the waters
in which they are raised is so sheltered
that the submarine growth from which
the oysters derive sustenance contain as
good nutritive qualities one year as
another.
1.-The true connoisseur likes the dainty
oyster. 1t has a fiavor-almost insidious
that the large ones lack. OF the big
ones, the Shrewsburys and Rockaways
are the best They are extensively eaten
because many have palates of no dis
elimination and like to get bulk for their
money"