The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1901-10-13


the death of President Mckinley very
sincerely. and social festivities among
them have for a time been deferred
France, however, is just as gay as
though anarchists did not flourish and
presidents fall.
The visit of the car and czarina
Enlightened the aspect of Paris wonder
fully, although their imperial majesties
have not visited the city. The gowns
worn by some of me grand DANES at
the gala performance given at the
Chateau Compiegne theater was really
magnificent. The czarina herself was
perhaps the most inconspicuously dress
ed woman in the glittering assembly.
She wore a simple toilet of black SPAN
gled lace. The czarina is grand
daughter of Queen Victoria and is there
fore in mourning for that august lady
as well as for her maternal aunt, the
late Empress Frederick of Germany. On
her head the czarina wore a diamond
and around her fine white throat i've
rows of pearls. She displayed no orders
and would probably have preferred to
dispense with the diadem, as she is ueul-
ocraticaIly simple in her tastes, but court
etiquette made it's wearing imperative.
Many persons were amused when Nine.
Loubet took her place in the box with
the imperial lady, for this daughter OF
the people was fairly glitterinS with
gems A diamond tiara no less mag
nificent than that of the czarina encir-
cled her brow, while sprays of emeralds
furtner embellshed her couture. Her
gown, a superb CONNECTION of white bro
cade and mousseline de sole, contrasted
with green embroidery, was crossed by
blue sash of the Order of st. Gather
inc.
Beautiful brocades were noticeable all
over the theater. Flowered damasks
in when gold and silver threads inquired
composed many a stately robe. Inc
return to old fashioned fabrics for even
ing frocks is each week becoming more
pronounced. Lutte string, soft, corded
silk known to the DANES of the last
century, las made its appearance and
paduasoie a silk woven in the town OF
Padua and long out of fashion, is again
used.
Many stately fabrics are being REIN
trOduced, with an eye TO the coming cor
onation ceremonies in Great Britain
Although the date of the function IS
still distant. it suits the convenience OF
fashion designers to experiment with
the possibilities of StuffS before they
make such serious use of them as intro
duction at an imperial coronation. some
English DANES of high degree nave al
ready beSpoken their gowns IN Fdlls'
as shrewd peeresses know that to assure
their orders being filed in time they
must anticipate thousands OF other
women who will want coronation unery.
If NAV be of interest to know What the
Empress Eugene ordered from her farls
dressmaker as the latest addition TO her
mourning wardrobe There was tlIne
when Eugenie's selection of new rooe
was a matter of the most intense inter-
est to fashionable Europe. Poor old lady!
That has all gone with her imperial rank
and her marvellous beauty. Her taste is
as exquisite as ever, although somewhat
subdued, but to the grand world the gatD
of the aged recluse of Farnsborougn mas
become an object of indifference. inns
latest toilet is composed of taffeta silk,
lace and ribbon and sets off to adVan-
tage the fine face and snow white hair
of the once great beauty. The silk is
shaped over foundation OF line black
sateen. insertions of black lace trim the
sleeves and collar bands. A deep frlll
of black lace falls over the shoulders,
the vest of tucked silk being framed by
the lace of the collar. Under the frill the
fronts of the bodice are laid in plaits of
four groups each. The sleeves resemble
bishop ones having puffs at the elbows
and tucked and insertion trimmed sec
tions above and below the puffs. The
ceinture and the wristbands consist of
bands of ribbon velvet, finished by neat
bows.
A gown of black grenadine, trimmed
with insertions of chantilly lace and
bands of black velvet, makes hand
some frock for an elderly lady. Medal
liz s of jet are inserted at the head of
The three narrow ruffles on the skirt, each
ruffle being set off by a band of fine
ruching. The bodice, supplied with a
Dolero follows the skirt in design, medal
lions over its surface being arranged in
artistic combination with the ribbon vel
vet. The use of jetted medallions is
marked on many smart frocks. 1t gives
touch of brightness to even mourn
ing custome.
was especially impressed with the
beauty of Louis XIV. frock worn at a
recent fashionable affair and emanating
from a no less fashionable maison than
that of ROuf. 1t was in princess shape
made of ivory satin and laid in long
panels, each of which was framed in
pale green embroideries. A huge artificial
flower hid one shoulder, but the other
stood plainly revealed. 1t was crossed
by a wide band of black velvet ribbon
extending, across the front of the bodice
and disappearing under one arm like the
sash of an order. The lower part OF
the skirt fell in deep f1ounce of nous.
seine de sole embroidered and showing
a plated underf1ounce of the same fab
ric. A deep train gave an imposing ap
pearance to the figure of the owner
White satin covered with incrustation:
of lace is one of tIg many variations in
brocades put forward for fall and winter
wear. On one of the pattern gowns the
satin formed part of the skirt, aIternat
ing with embroidered silk tulle. which
formed the back and the train. Garlands
of black lace, decorated with artificial
flowers, trimmed the lower part of the
front, and appeared on the upper par
of the bodice, which was in itself a mere
draping of the embroidered tulIe Owe
satin. The sleeves emerged from under
shoulder applications of lace and finish
ed just above the elbows with lace bows
1t seems that the straightforward cor
set must go. The Medical academy ha.
been making lengthy investigation O.
Its shortcomings and claims that thu
hard, straight front Injuries the interna
organs in some manner inexplicable I,
the unseientific mind. 1t is said tina
surgical operations and examination,
on bodies of those who wore straight
fronted stays have disclosed the inter
nal organism in shockingly unnatura
condition. Terrified by the disclosure
French women are inclined to repudiat
the straight-bu sked corset and adop
that of 1890. which has no steel in from
and is closed by lacings behind. An our
side corset or, as it is called, a bodice