The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1901-02-09
LAST JOURNEY IN SPAIN.
ACROSS "1HE R1TSIN BELI'' no
GRENADA.

The wtne-Press rs Trodden by Bare
footed Boys and Men in Henpen
sandals-A Day In Malaga.
Especial Correspondence of the Journal
and Courier.)
Grenada. Jan. 27-The suspicion you
began to entertain at barcelona
strengthened in spite of sentiment ana
tradition at Valencia, Alicante ana all
the way down the Mediterranean coast,
becomes positive conviction at Malaga
that world famed Andalusia is no
longer 1.-THE jewel Of Spain" From
romantic and aesthetic point of view,
Cadiz, Cordova, Seville, Toledo, with
their air of dreamy repose, their haugh-
ty but poverty stricken aristocracy and
general out-at-elbows condition, are by
far the most interesting. At every
turn they remind you of glorious ana
opulent prime--long, long departed;
whereas, in these Mediterranean cities,
with their modern hustle and activity
of commerce the past is forgotten in
the prosperous life of to-day 1t seems
like rankest heresy to prefer plebean
trade to the romance OF ages, but
though dreams are delightful, perhaps
bread and butter, plentifully sugared
is of more consequence to cities as well
as to individuals.
Malaga is a shining example of this
latter day prosperity, with it's world
famous raisins and it's Wines of many
varieties; its brandy distilery which Is
one of the most perfect establishments
in Europe; it's factories of sugar, choc-
olate, liquorice and porous earthen-
ware; it's cotton mills and paper-mills,
and leather manufactures, and lead
smelling and works, and it's enor-
nous trade in oranges, olives, barley,
figs. fish and minor commodities, for
which thousands Of vessels annually
visit It's harbor. It's four great sugar.
manufactures turn out yearly aver
age of ninety thousand hundredWeight;
its two cotton factories employ more
than four thousand hands; and it's nler-
chants export every variety of sweet
Muscatel wines, from the celebrated
"Lagrimas (teans) de Montilla" and
"Dulce," couple Of centuries old, to
the common fiery stuff which is much
too strong for the average American to
sample with impunity. A very cheap
and popular Malaga wine has this
quality Of burning strength imported to
it eby being mixed with alcohol mad
from potatoes, immense quantities of
which are imported from Germany, to
the infinite detriment Of consumers.
It's alcoholic character, combined with
the heat of the climate and national
excitability drives the drinkers crazy;
and no doubt to its cheapness and con-
sequent too-lberal use, may be attrib-
uted most Of the crimes which have
given the place such an unenviable rep
utation.
With the charming prospect before
us of cross-country drive to Grenada
the show-place pre-eminent of all the
show-places in Spain-we were recon-
ciled to another twenty-four hours of
robbery in the expensive but comfort
less Gran Hotel de la Roma, while
waiting for the semi-weekly diligencia.
Meantime there is quite enough Of in
terest in Malaga to keep one all day
cut of doors in the sweet, warm sun
shine; and the long nights en- casa
come to an end at last, though sleep is
murdered by hasty generations of YER
min, vile doors in viler combination
and the street-racket of Bedlam let
loose. The Graaco- Roman cathedral
which, by reason of extraordinary size
and height, dominates the town and is
seen far out at sea, is rendered the
more conspicuous by its walls of bright |
red sandstone, while all the other build
ings are of dingy grays and yellows.
1t was begun sometime in the sixteenth |
century, but is not yet completed, and |
probably never will be- Architect af-
ter architect, through four hundred |
years, has added his quota of disfgure-
medley of inharmonious designs, be-
daubled inside with innumerable coats |
of whitewash, presents a painful ex-
ample of all the defects of the worst |
periods in art. Its western front has |
two towers, one shooting up, telescope |
fashion. three hundred feet with tiny |
dome on top that looks like the button
on the horn of an OK; while its COM
is a squatty, unfinished
dwarf. There are seven entrances, a
great many enormous windows, and
number of curious little cupolas on the
roof. 1t occupies the site of the Moslem
at the entrance to the old
Moorish quarter, whose steep and mar
row by ways lead by devious windings
to Gibralfaro castle, on top of the five
hundred foot-high hill. 1t is said that
more money is yearly spent for can
dies in this cathedral than for all the
meat and bread consumed in Malaga
At any rate, thousands of candles are
burning on it's affairs, and
at any time of day, every day in the
year, service is going on Soldiers,
artisans, peasants, grandees, servants,
beggars, even professional smugglers
and highwaymen, all devoutly answer
The call of the cathedral bell; and you
see constant procession of Spanish
women entering it's doors, always
plainly dressed in black garmesnts,
with bit of lace thrown over the head.
The chief beauty of the town is it's
delightful Alameda-a broad and
handsome avenue, with a promenade in
he center under noble trees, fountains
md statuetes scattered at intervals,
md stone seats in the shade where
people sit chatting and listening to the
music. The magnificent fountain at
he far end was brought from Genoa
~ Charles V. and intended for his pal
ice at Grenada
You may take some lovely drives in
he suburbs of Malaga, amid the coun-
ry seats of Spanish grandees, and the