The Washington times., 1901-12-15

appeared 20 be too commonplace, il wa
changed u the more high-sounding nam
of Executive Mansion. Recently Presiden
Roosevelt, in a spirit of true American
ism. expressed his disapproval of tn
latter. and it will again be known Off
cially by its old-time cognomen OF White
! House.
Dolly Madison was another OF the mis-
| tresses of the White House who tool
| pleasure in experimenting its household
| affairs. She was a most genial spirit. and
| brought with her to the management oi
the mansion and the reception and en-
tertainment of its guests those rare quail
tiles of an Old Dominion lady of the
! blood. At the Christmas dinner in the
White House. in 1909. Mrs. Madison had
prepared under her special direction by
Aunt Hannah, the colored head cook. two
dishes which she took keen delight in in
Producing to the guests.
These dishes were rabbit potpie, with
trimmings, and a roast pig. or shoat. as
young hogs were then designated in Vir-
ginia and the South. The pig. when
placed on the table. hot, brown and
steaming, had large rosy apple between
its jaws. form of decoration original
with herself and which has been fea-
ture OF roast shoat ever since.
In choosing pig for roasting Mrs.
Madison, like Mrs. Jefferson, always Sc
lected a porker of the Virginia fiddle
face breed. so well known in Caroline
piggy, properly baked. was far more de-
liciOus than turkey. In those days there
were no convenient ovens for such bak-
ing, and the animal was, therefore. spit
ted over an oak or hickory fire, after the
fashion of the present day barbecues.
The state dining room at the White
House as result of its evolution has
been returned to the colonial style. but
not to the homelike simplicity which
characterized the apartment in the early
days of the Republic. IL is what an old
timer facetiOusly termed the up-to-da
colonial style" The western door of the
dining room leads into the White House
conservatory, with its wealth of bright
hued flowers and fragrant atmosphere.
Opposite the state dining room is the
family dining room.
The Kitchen of This Day.
The basement floor is devoted to the
kitchen. laundry. storerooms and SER
Every reminder of olden times has been
removed. and it Is REV as complete as the
cooking room of Delmonico's famous re-
sort In New York, while the culinary
skill OF past masters in the art of cook
cry is exhausted in providing Presidential
menus.
The Washington markets are consid-
cred the best in this country, and neces-
sarily so. for they are called upon to
supply diplomats representing every
country under the sun. statesmen from
ali sections of the Union. high Govern
ment officials army and navy officers and
wealthy visitors from everywhere. The
Presidential steward is, therefore en-
abled to select from these markets any
thing and everything the appetite may
crave. In consequence the White House
storerooms never suffer from lack of
either quantity, quality or variety of in
gradients for the choicest viands.
No Notorious odors.
In the days Of yore there we're no ap-
pliances at the Presidents house to pre-
vent the fragrant odors in the kitchen
from ascending to the upper floors, and
It was a saying in Washington at that
time: Let's walk up to the White House
and peep in to smell what Old Hickory is
going to have for his dinner" All this
is changed now. AS far as odors 90, the
casual visitor to the mansion would
never suspect that a chef with his corps
of white-clad assistants we're busy be-
low stairs preparing food for President
Roosevelt and his guests.
Christmas dinners at the White House
are now set with the most sumptuous
state china. on which is depicted the
fauna and fora of the United States to-
gether with masses OF silver and delicate
ly cut glass Then there are gold and sill
yer caudlesticks and mirrored scouces
in broad silver { ames, containing wax
lights and special floral decorations.
These elaborate fairs form a striking
contrast with the simple Christmas decor
ations during the days Of Adams JefIer-
son and Madison, such as pyramids OF
red apples, holly and cedar boughs with
a roast pig as the centrepiece. nanked by
a Drowned turkey and a duck or two.
Today many courses are served and the
state dinners continue about three hours
with an accompaniment OF soft music by
he Marine hand. Then there was but !
me course. In reality. 1t was a sort OF |
;o-as-you- please affair and help your
leighbor and yourself.
President Thomas jefferson entered the |
White House in 1901 He was much Of a |
bohemian and liked to be surrounded by I
)oets painters. writer's, singers and |
musicians and every bohemian fourd a
.ordial welcome beneath the hospitable |
oof Of the mansion. President jefferson |
dopted the plainest garb and made every |
.aller feel al home. He avoided the s,iff |
ormallties since in vogue. His cooks were |
frequently kept busy at night preparing
unches for HE bohemian friends. Welsh
arebit and stock ale being a feature Of
hose meals.
The custom Of serving the people with