The Republican journal., 1901-10-31

pense of mailing only. Address DIR.
R. V. Pierce, Buffalo, N. Y.
formidable armament and several
up-to-date guns.
In view of these drawbacks, ones
explorations of Morocco are somewhat
limited. With only one soldier guide
of whom there is probably as much rea-
son to be afraid as of any other pirate
you may visit the environs of
Tangier, seeing all of consequence in
one days time. At low tide you may
ride down to the beach and off to the
eastward, where massive ruins of
Roman walls temples and amphi-
theatres tell of great city which once
stood upon the shining sands. This
was the ancient Tingis, which tradi-
tions say was founded by Sophax, a
son of Hercules and the widow of
Antaeus. In its neighborhood was long
pointed out the grave of the tabled
giant, said to contain his skeleton
sixty cubits long. At any rate the
numerous legends that cling to it attest
the antiquity of the place. History
tells us that the Emperor Augustus
raised it to the rank of free city: and
that i'll the time OF ClaudiuS it became
a Roman colOnia and capital of the
province of Tingitana. Here in ancient
times, the galleys were laid up in mid
Winter-just inside the mouth of a
small river which flows into the
Mediterranean, but is now useless for
any sort of shipping, the one-time har-
bor being completely cut off from the
sea by huge sandbar. Across this
historic stream, now known as Oued Ell
1ehoud, or Jews river'0, may still be
traced the ruins of a Roman bridge;
and near by are the remains of an ex-
tensive aqueduct. From this point, a
picturesque road turns inland through
the Djebel, or mountain. Ragged
heights, rising canon-like on either
side are broken by succession of "a
vines in which vegetation, fed by fer
ruginouS springs, is extraordinarily rich.
Cork and olive trees, myrtle and dwarf
oaks make dense shade, and honey
suckles and passion vines run riot
amid thickets of cistus, heath, bay and
yellow broom. Here are gardens and
villas to which the wealthy residents of
Tangier betake themselves in summer
time to enjoy the cool mountain breezes
and the pure water of innumerable
springs. Another hours ride brings
you to Cape Spartel, with it's celebrated
lighthouse, which Uncle Samuel helps
to maintain. 1t was built at the ex-
pense of the Moors by French archi-
tect, but is kept up by the various for
eigh governments which are interested
in the Mediterranean trade, each con-
tributing its annual quota. After as
cending its tower and enjoying wide
view of shining sea and haze-enveloped
hills, and far away ON the horizon rim
glittering silver line which marks the
northern border of the desert-you are
offered coffee and bread by the care
takers of the lighthouse; and never
was nectar and ambrosia so acceptable.
If early enough in the day, you may
continue the ride to the caverns of Ras
Ashukkar, near the village of Mediuna.
which have served as stone quarries
since the days of the Romaus and from
which all the mill-stones for grinding
wheat that are used in the province of
Tangier are still cut. Returning to the
city-whOse gates you must reach be-
fore sunset, or remain all night outside
you may vary the excursion by cross
ing the plain, instead of taking the
beach road. On that part of the plat
eau nearest to the Kasbah, or citadel.
YOU see innumerable tombs. honey
combed III the living rock, which tradi-
ton says were the burial-places of the
ancient PhGnicians. Horrible to re-
late, these rocky graves, where corpses
have lain until corruption wrought it's
perfect work, are now utilized as prison
cells. Each contains some wretched
being, whose worst offence is probably
not being able to pay his debts, held
fast by chain, just long enough to per-
NIT him to squat in the door of his
tomb by day, and crawl into it at night
for shelter.
It takes two days to do Tetuan on
mule-back; and the government insists
on furnishing a sOldier-escort at YOUR
expense. The customary payment of a
foot-soldier is half dollar day and
his keep; that of a mounted soldier,
double the price. Leaving Tangier by
the sea-gate, you follow the beach about
a mile, and then turn inland to avoid
the sand hills. By and by you come to
a little stream, ,fringed with mink and