The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1901-10-11
aULAl EL-HASSAN'S LAND
pDI11Es OF LIFE IN MO-
rocco.

10 Most Filthy and Fascinating
nd spnniards.
pecial Correspondence of the journal
and Courier)
Tangier, Morocco Sept. ii, 1901.
This principal sea port of Morocco
5 directly opposite Gibraltar, near
.e western end of the narrow Strait
at separates Europe from Africa
few miles between the two cities
Itch any ferry boat of the United
ties could make in thirty minutes,
1pies about five hours in this region
yesterdays, where all things more
Iy as in Boabdl's time But never
greater contrast met in so short
rney than that between the TWen-
h century, as examplified by the
glish at Gibraltar, and the lire Oh
strange town which seems to JOIN
ids with the immemorial East OF
taham Isaac and Jacob! SOMEBODY
aptly described Tangier as "A hap
mixture between the Old Testament
the Arabian Nights, with the gid
somewhat furnished"
o visitors who have not Travelled in
entail countries, the first view OF
4s agier is extremely striking. Like
most Mediterranean ports, 1t is built
On terraces, ampllea trical fashion,
around a crescent shaped bay; but I'M
like the others, it has no background OF
Ii q distance I'M
der the glowing African sky, it has
Charm and beauty all its own-its
white washed houses in straight lines
against the horizon, tiled minerels re-
Observation-Disclosures FURNISHED sum-" and
here and there a royal palm standlhg
yuard over all. A concrete pier, OF re-
jent construction, permit you TO lano
4 with tolerabe ease--when the tide is
high; but at low tide you must make
u picturesque but undignified entrance
rs Morocco on the shoulders OF some
unclean Jew, who ten to one, Wheh ne
gets you into the worst or the sull'
threatens to drop you then ana theie
iniess the price agreed upon ror ms
4 lob be doubled. Your luggage goes 10
The Custom House, each piece by ltseli,
IA the hands of who ever can grap 1t
rst. and who refuses to deliver II I'M
Y his exorbitant demand for the SER
,e has been gratified But the GUS
~ officials are remarkably civil
less guns and cartridges are among
nossessions in which case MOTH
q ran be passed and you are held I'M
~ surveillance until your Consul
boYoas down and vouches for your
harmlessness.
Entering through the quaintest OIL
ncient Morocco gateways, you ma at
~ the most filthy and most fascinat-
= nlace in the world. Nearer to Eu-
Il than any other African city, it Is
t as remote in it's customs and man
r~of living as any portion OF the
r.+ter East where Mohammed prevails
Nd sthe unspeakable Turk" has things
his own way. Fierce, wicked races
wi at YOU under flz and turban. The
w. yile-smelling alleys that answer
I streets fairly swarm with dlrIy'
f-naked children, each with shaven
wn surmounted by sort OF scalp
in which torsades of bright
u .yyeel are woven and knotted; and
X lE1ing women, in yellowish-w white
sklen haiks, whose heavy burdens
a abiect rnien tell of slavery and I'M
Z huited toll. The twenty thousand
bple that to- day inhabit Tangier be-
10 to the Middle Ages in their usages
q ideas; while from even farther
k In the misty past, on their camels
way Of the desert, comes ceaseless
ression Of the Nomad successors of
Bible patriarch, to pitch their tents
the borders Of the town. Where it
for few flags of European nations
n ting the dull-red Moorish banner on
fortress, and the business-like but
yrally useless fifty which has been
Ned out into the bay for the con-
ice Of foreign steamers, the Tan
of the Twentieth century might
he identical city of a thousand
rs ago. How can one describe it,
en- all familiar comparisons fail? Of
rise the town is completely surround
y high walls, and inner walls divide
flto two distinct portions-the Kas-
or fort, occupying the western and
1t elevated section and the Medinah,
'ty proper at the foot of the slope.
pting the foreign legations and
hlates, the residences of few
thy merchants and a half dozen
tlt and English hotels, the houses
n1IOTQlly SIlldll dllu llecii, VI oiiC
Aonly, with low entrance and no
VS. on the street side. Roof above
a succession Of terraces, rises
wff,-Ns streets all so narrow and
4. alike that the stranger has the
difficulty in finding his way
Tt is unsafe, too, without a we'll
snded guide from the hotel,
ot so likely to prove a highway
and assassin in disguise as
ne picked up at hazard on the
The inns, by the way, are Won
good all things considered
lerate in their charges as COM
ith those across the Straits.
bred of foreigners are the Ho-
York down near the landing;
I Continental Universal and
in the suburbs, commanding
Us and cool breezes. Each no.
E8 veral studios attached, for the
zee of artists, who are their
patrons.
WAS the town so full of pic
E ge1ight a painters soul! No
can be found such exquisite
,of Moorish art, in the way of
overs, arches and tile encrust-
lN cts. sl1ch TAPESTRIES, rugs and