New-York tribune., 1901-06-23
INCONSPICUOUS CHOKERS.
SOFTLY DRAPED PIECES OF LACE, NULL
OR SILK USED FOR THE NECK
* RUssET HAIR A PARTISAN FAD.
Paris, June IL.


What an inconspicuous feature OF gown the
choker Is now! At the most It is a softly draped
piece OF lace. null silk. mere continuation or
the yoke. and many Of the summer gowns the
choker is dispensed with entirely and the bodice
cut out at the throat in pretty fashion. stin
ST must admitted that in the generality OF cases
the soft choker is more becoming than the uncov-
cred throat under daylight. If the choker is not
worn neck Of the bodice is generally finished by
a deep collar Of finely embroidered batiste, lace
or hchu or scarf folded about the neck. with the
ends gathered and tied in front, hchu fashion.
For serious sort of summer street dress etamine
appears to be the first choice although alpaca fol-
lows It closely. Etamine. trimmed with stitched
bands OF silk is safe and attractive model. Here
examples Of gowns of this sort. both signed
by well known dressmakers:
The first. OF navy blue etamine. has the skirt
made with cluster OF side pleats behind. and with
pleated shaped founce knee high. The founce is
trimmed with three bands. one used as heading
and the other holding down the pleats equal
distances on the ounce. allowing the hounce
ally 10 fare out al the bottom in the approved
style. This trimming consists OF stitched bands
white silk, partly covered with openwork
broidery Of black silk, held by tiny gold buttons.
The bodice is arranged in shirt pleats that run
from the neck 20 the bust. over these is a square
collar made Of white silk. covered with black
broidery and tiny buttons and cut 10 frame tiny
pointed chemisette and choker OF tucked lingerie.
There are white undersleeves 20 match The waist
band is fold OF black silk, drawn down low in
'front.' with gold buckle.
The second gown is an etamine in butter color.
trimmed with taffeta bands IN the same shade put
rows in crisscross pattern on the bottom OF the
ski skirt and and on the hoero trim the edges and bottom
nave a close cum ana close upper part ending in
stitched bands. are separated with a puff of ecru
lace The choker Of the bolero ends Just in front
lace with straps Of black velvet making points that
This model is being duplicated IN a light blue mo-
nalr with bands OF white silk outlined with black
ends embroidered with black and gold the scarf carr
hang down on the skirt. The skirt both gowns
is made with a corselet.
show which was held recently in e Tuileries ri e 3a
% d%ens Most Of The gowns were in thin materials in
the russet lace that IS SO much worn Shirt pIeats
fya linen had ad r one narFow panels of seT %
peats arranged like VS.. these extending almost to
@ same way; and there were undersleeves and blouse
ehSker as banS IL ogssens de sole About the
,t Mea VIII several % loops in front. This worn
tilly and trimmed under the brim on one side with
deep red roses
THE ROYAL LINEN GOWN.
IT may not be necessary to explain this royal
linen. for 81 is much in Paris that IL must
be used everywhere. II is a linen. but almost as
soft as crepe de chine, and in the most deli
cate shades. IL is generally made up with a deal
Of lingerie embroidery. which seems TO suit it bet
ter than lace
Another gown adnired at the flower show was
OF linen IN delicate shade OF mauve built over
white taffeta- The skirt was trimmed h., two
lows OF ecru lace arranged I'm points set about
slA inches apart. and these two were con-
nected by straps OF black velvet ribbon The white
lining showed through the lace and between tbe
Enes OF velvet. The blouse had a deep lace collar
ana a nigh corselet made Of velvet ribbon sewed on
The most attractive gowns that one sees AT nras-
ent are Designed 20 be worn at garden parties and
this time OF the year in Paris neant,sn 2ouno 10,
Seed are the painted gauzes although they need Ia
be most carefully made up and are best with the
design confined TO the skirt. or at least used snar
tngly the bodice 1 spar
A white sauze that has the skirt painted IN LARGO
purple and pale yellow lilies is trimmed with =
oeep nounce or yellow English point put on IN