The times., 1901-03-10
THE POSTILLION BELT
Fashion DEGREES That 1t Form the
Summer Girls Girdle.

Rows of RavcIod Gold and silver. To
Ecther with Fern and Chenille, to
Decorate the Hair-SprinE styles
Impossible for Fat Noturies.
A long. slender waist is an imperative
necessity for the wearing Of the new
belts. that are wider than we have seen
them i'm many day. The girdle that
comes to US with the cachet Of Partisan
approval is made Of black elastic ribbon
measuring from eight to twelve inches in
width. and is powdered with tiny cut
beads Of steel. In front it fastens with
song. narrow. and highly ornate buckle of
steel. and from the bottom Of the buckle
depend two long friuged-ends scarts of
black silk, or steel spangled net or soft
sash ribbon. Technically. this is known
as the Empire belt and. for the spring
muslins and organizes, the importers
have in store wonderful wide belts of
White and pastel tinted elastic ribbon,
or thin glace kid, that are powdered with
wee paste brilliants, turquoise or moon
stones. and finished with gem-Set buckles
and floating chiffon or taffeta sashes
Girdles that extend from the waist line
up TO the point of the bust are none too
wide for light cotton gowns. and all the
readily to the new scheme of decoration.
An eight-inch wide ribbon, for instance,
all garIauded with field posies, viii be
passed twice around the waist of an or
gaudie or challie. its ends viii be caught
up on the bust, and there made fast with
an oval buckle of briliauts still wider
ana longer sash, of flowery taffeta, viii
run out from under the arms, enclrcle the
waist twice, and passing at the back,
through a buckle as big as saucer, let
fall its ends clear to the tip of the huity
train.
A smart American idea this postillion
girdle Is. and the strap that encircles the
middle is wide or narrow, as the pur-
chaser may select.
Big bows. and ospreys, and chenille
sprays. and tulle scarfs are all popular
and pretty hair ornaments, but the pref
tiest and most unique fancy is the tuft
of close-curled fern fronds, and sprays OF
maiden-hair fern that the girl OF sweet
sixteen pins in her shining tresses.
The fern ornaments are made of green
velvet or green chenille and are the most
exquisite reproduction Of natures own
inimltable efforts.
Bows Of raveled gold and silver ribbon
are decorative and not yet hackneyed, but
spangled roses Of novelty, and the women
who pride themselves on their good taste
wear only green or black ornaments.
At last il has been discovered that dia-
monds become only the few while pearls
enhance the clearness and color Of every
complexion, therefore the manufacturers
can hardly meet the demand for the pink
or white imitation gems.
No woman seems to feel herself equip
ped for the social fray without a string
or two Of pearls on her neck or arms, and
those who are always scouting in advance
Of the thousands for something new are
setting great store by their hopes Of ash
pearls which make the neck on which
thsy are worn look whittier by contrast.
Ash pearls strung with turquoise beads
and worn with q black panne gown, are
considered tres chic in Paris.
il still requires a high-pressure corset,
hot baths. and pickle diet to keep stout
women down TO the proportions requisite
for q proper display Of the newest even
ing hnery Never before has fat been
more fatal to style and grace in dress;
gowns manufactured on both sides of the
Atlantic are no fuller at the hips, no
shorter at the waist. and no wider at the
knees than we have worn them Tor the
past two years. Perhaps, for morning
and afternoon toilets. there IS a tT!ne
more in breadth and flare near the heLn
than of yoke, but in the mode Of the bod
ice. and even IN the goods used. one must
wander far afeld in order TO find nov
city.
Of the p0sv silks that are said to be a re-
YiVal Of a fashion dating from Queen Al
eXandra's girlhood. The description ap-
plies only TO those soft evening loulards
and taffetas that are brOched IN close set
bouquets or little round vatican
wreaths that often are as brilliantly col
ored as the nOsegaEs on an Oid-IaSEloneu
WedgeWood plate.
The posy silks are designed for the deb
utaut.s especially and should Ee worn
with shoulder knots and trailing gariauds
of flowers that VIII exactly match those
Coiors may come and colors may 60
but the black gown remains forever
Black toilets gaTnished with spangles ana
gilt have had their day ana We nave gone
back TO black uureNeEed by any decUf1-
tiOn save little lace and touch OF color
near the shoulders. Last winter the dus-
Ky velvet gown was, as always, the
standard Of dignity and splendor; this
spring a very brilliant black paune is Un-
rivaled IN its effective charm.
A black panne, properly made, fails IN
folds that glitter with high white lights,
the skirt is long and treated with Tufties
Of itself. the waist IS plain, sleeveless, cut
open. square in the decolletage- and com
pleted with touch Of tlme-DroWued lace
and pearls.
since the dressmakers and their patrons
continue 20 cling TO the serDenune MODE
in gown building, the manufacturers
have brought out none but soft-hnlshed
evening materials. They have introduced
q satin chiffon that promises to enjoy a
vogue equal 10 that Of panne- As Its
name implies. IL is as soft as chihon ana
as bright. rich and as durable as saln IL
self From satin de Lyon and satin Ouch
esse from peau de sole and peau de cygne
every bit Of the dressing and close weay-
ing that makes for stiffness has been left
out. and panne itself has been reduced in
weight to meet the requirements OF the
prevailing preference for soft self-drap-
ing goods.
As to the makeup Of these plant ma
SERIALS every dressmaker leaves II to her
patrons to choose between design OF an
evening gown with or without an over
skirt II the choice is for an overdress,
then that garment must be Of chiffon,
satin chiffon or Liberty silk, draped tunic-
-xfse bordered with lace. OF more sweeJy
.,tilI shirred with shirrings and tiny pufed
triIIs. in which at intervals knots Of rose
I,uds and baby leaves are nestled. Direct
" IN front or on one hip, the tunic is slit
omen from hem TO waist line and fuil
gathered. or drawn fat over the hips and
back.
A Club with Some Odd Features.
,-.t-- IL, KA-,.r-,. NJ l,ImL of IDefrDit