Evening star., 1901-11-19
THE CAPITAL OF BULGARIA.
The Center of Interest in the Kid
naped Missionary Case.


W. E. Curtis In the Chicago Record Herald.
Sofia, the capital and commercial center,
is situated in the southwestern corner of
Bulgaria on an elevated plain, at the base
of Mount Vitosch beautiful peak 1880
feet high. Its head is usually clothed in
the clouds, and perpetual snow lies in the
wrinkles upon it's face. The cloud move
ments and other atmospheric effects add
greatly to it's picturesqueness. and just
now the forests which cover it's breast are
lvid with scarlet and yellow foliage, which
reaches to the snow line and affords a
striking and lovely contrast.
The base of the mountain is only few
niles from the city, and excursions to 1t
are one of the few amusementS In which
foreigners can indulge in warm weather.
They have very little diversion. There are
no theaters-only one little variety show
no concerts, except occasionally by a mill
tary band attached to the palace, and only
limited amount of social entertainment.
The foreign colony must therefore find its
fun In driving, riding, picnicking and play
ing tennis. Golf has not been introduced,
for the natives take little interest N such
sports. The foreign colony is small, and
limited almost entirely to the diplomatic
representatives of the European countries.
A few Austrtans and Germans are engaged
in business affairs, several Belgian engi-
neers run the electric light and street car
lines, and there are one Englishman and
two or three Americans. mostly missionary
teachers.
The city covers considerable area and
looks as if building boom had been sud-
denly checked, which Is true. Prince Al
exander was great promoter. Under his
administration Bulgaria made extraordi-
nary progress and Sofia started upon
promising career Stambuloff took up the
work where Alexander left it at his abdica-
ton, and carried out many Of his schemes,
but since 1.-The Bulgarian Bismarck" was
relieved hoc
done in the way Of public or private i'm
provement. The stagnation is said to be
due ma measure to a lack of confidence in
the stability of the present government, and
to the fact that Prince Ferdinand Is inter-
ested In other things. One must infer that
he takes little pride in the appearance of
his capital and does not encourage the ex-
penditure of money upon public works.
Shortly before he retired Stambuloff pur-
chased an entire block of ground opposite
the palace, upon which he intended to erect
magnificent building for the offices Of the
government. The plans were drawn by an
Austrian architect, excavations were made
for the foundation and cellars, and a large
quantity Of cut stone was delivered by the
contractors. A few days after Stambuloff's
retirement work was suspended and has
granite lie scattered over the ground; the
cellar is half filled with water during the
wet season and overgrown with weeds dur
ing the dry months Every stranger who
comes to Sofia instinctively asks an explain
alton, but Prince Ferdinand, who always
has this reproachful panorama before him,
seems to be entirely Indifferent to 1t. The
palace is a fine building in Frenchy style,
surrounded by pleasant grounds, and facing
a public park that is well laid out with TO-
liage plants and fountains, and Is a pleas
ure ground for the people.
The old city, or 1.-The Turkish quarter" as
it is called resembles patch of Constanti-
nople, and has the low adobe walls, the
heavy tiled roofs, the deep windows and
the narrow streets Of all oriental cities,
with long blocks of bazaars kept by Turks
and Jews, who have most Of their wares
displayed upon the sidewalks. This Is by
far the most interesting section of the town
to strangers. The shops are open, so that
the visitor is enabled to watch the artisans
at their work. The trades seem to be
grouped together-the shoemakers In one
bunch, the tailors In another, the butchers.
bakers, brassworkers, tinsmiths and other
people in the same trade occupying adjoin-
ing houses.
Most of the natives wear unshorn sheep
skin clothing, with the wool next to the
body; the leather side being tanned to q
soft white, velvety appearance like buck
skin, and the most interesting occupation
Is that Of the tailors, who make all sorts of
queer looking garments from sheepskins
Some of the men wear short jackets of the
Elton pattern, but as the weather grows
colder they change them for warmer gar
ments, and some have long ulsters with
wide skirts which reach to the heels The
rest Of their clothing is the natural color
OF the wool woven Into heavy fabrics; their
headgear is made of lambs wool curled like
the skating caps sometimes worn In the
United States. They are called kalpacks.
In the new part OF the cifv the rfrnofa