davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1901-04-18
HOMEMADE DRESSES.
USEFUL SUGGESTIONS REGARDING
THE MAKING OF SKIRTS.

Designs For Five Different Styles
and How They Should Be Cut-Cfr-
cular, Gore and Flare skirts-The
Completed Garment.
copyright, 1901, by American Press Association
There are three distinct styles of
skirts for this season and several
others which are based upon these
three models, but made different by
some change of trimming or other mi
nor arrangement. The first is the circu-
lar; the second is the plain seven gored,
which has been the standard for sc
many years that it is scarcely neces-
sary to speak of it more than to say
that it forms the basis of some of the
prettiest of the seasons gowns. 1t is
particularly well adapted to any suit
where founces or other full trimming
is to be added. And fiounces are to be
very popular on thin dresses. The
seven gore skirt is the best model
where economy in material is con-
cerned, when the material is such that
there is no up or down. In that case
1t can be cut in what the manufac-
turers call "close lay" This means
that the breadths are cut by laying the
pattern on the stuff, up and down and
any way so that there is no waste.
The third is a skirt which has after
long effort at last gained favor. This
is the seven gore fare skirt. Some call
it sheath. 1t fits the wearer closely at
the top and flares widely at the bottom.
This skirt can hardly be called an eco
nomical one, as the flare at the bottom
takes up much cloth, even when there
is no nap. To cut this skirt it is well
to lay the cloth doubled on a long
table and try to get two double parts
out of each width of cloth. Beginning
with Fig. 1, the first piece is cut from
the straight double and is 10 inches
Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1901-04-18

across the top and % at the bottom,
the fare not being quite SO marked as
IN the other bFeadths. no. = Is to be cut
double. as there are two of all the
breadths except the front and back.
The top of this breadth Is 5 inches,
and at the place where the X is it
measures inches and dwindles to
6 inches at the place marked O.. The
flare then brings it to l5 inches at
top and slopes gradually out to the
bottom, where it measures 20 inches.
There are two of these. No. is 6
inches at the top and "a at the bottom,
with an almost imperceptible flare at
the front side. about half way down.
No. is cut on the fold of the cloth at
the back. with the bias part to be sewed
to the bias of No. A. The back breadth
is IA inches at the top and 80 at the
bottom This makes SO inches around
the top. Probably no woman measures
so much around the waist. nor is it ex-
pected that this is to be the exact size.
for when the lining is basted TO the
outside-if it is skirt requiring lining
the breadths are basted together and
put on the owner. wrong side out. and
then the skirt is fitted like waist, for
1t is intended that this skirt shall fit
the figure closely. all except right in
the center of the back. where there
may be gathers or double fold. The
front breadth Is allowed in the dia-
gram wider at the top in comparison
than the others for the reason that no
two women are shaped exactly alike
across the stomach. and this is to allow
fit to all shapes. The seams are to be
taken in with pins.
When the skirt has been fitted to the
figure, 1t should be rebasted and tried
on again, this time right side out. and
any small imperfections rectified, after
Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1901-04-18
HIS DEAD BODY LAY ON THE GRASS.

<xAD O6nO D00A A-a1 O&N A1E 0AsADSs
ing and work with him in his fields for
half month. While we were chatting
neighboring farmer named Saunders
came up and halted for five minutes,
and two others passed on the highway
and saluted Holborne with a good
| evening. 1t was 10 o'clock before
went to the barn, and, being tired and
| sleepy, l was soon in dreamland. How
| long had slept when 1 was awakened
by the sound of voices in anger could
I not say, but l heard what seemed to be
quarrel between Holborne and anoth-
er man. The voice of the other was
high pitched and had catch in it. 1t
was not stammer, but sort of gasp,
as if catching his breath. l was not
fully aroused, nor did the quarrel con-
tinue long.
1t was just sunrise next morning
when l woke up and turned out. The
house was only about five rods away,
and after looking about to see If Hol-
borne were in sight moved along to
the house. His dead body lay on the
grass before the open door. He had
been struck on the head with a club
and killed by single blow. I was
upset by the discovery, as you may
believe. After touching his face and
finding it cold started off on the run
for the nearest farmhouse, half mile
away. The farmer was milking his
cow and his wife preparing breakfast,
but they returned with me at once, and
other neighbors were called, and a boy
waA sent off to the nearest police sta
tion.A told my story to the people,
and all believed it, as why should
they not when Saunders was among
them? And yet when the police came
their very first move was to arrest me
as the murderer. A tramp had pass
ed the night in the barn. OF course
the tramp had murdered the farmer.
If you agree that the police were
asses, you will agree that the others
were fools. No sooner was charged
with the murder than all turned
against me. Saunders suddenly re-
membered that our conversation was
heated as he came up. The two who
passed by thought they heard me use
threatening language. A farmer whom
had not seen ut all the evening before
claimed to have come near enough to
the house to have heard me ask Hol-
borne for the loan of e. was an
gered, but not frightened. l asked
the police to investigate my bed on
the straw, and they found it still
warm. / asked them to look through
the house, and they found nothing dis
turbed. asked them to note that the
body was cold, and the doctor who
was summoned said that life had been
extinct for seven or eight hours. Was
1t to be believed that had killed Hol-
borne at 10 or IL o'clock and then, in
stead of plundering the house and
Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1901-04-18
winterbottom,s Clever scheme,


"And now, darling, it only remains
for you to say when
But at this moment the automobile,
which had reached the top Of the hill,
started down the other side Of the hill
with frightful velocity.
The young man hastily applied the
brake.
1t failed to work.
He shut off the power.
1t was too late.
The maddened machine raced down
the steep grade.
At the foot of the incline there was a
sharp turn to the left.
Here the automobile left the turnpike
and ran down the embankment, throw
ing the young couple out and landing
them in a big pile Of sand.
'Never mind, darling" exclaimed the
youth, who, with hat gone, collar loose
at onclend and cSat ripped npgthe bsck,
was presently engaged in digging sand
out of the hysterical maiden's mouth;
"thfs is one time that the course Of
true love ran smooth, even If it did get
bit of jolt at the end of the rum"
"Cyrus Winterbottom," she said half
an hour later as they were journeying
toward home in a farmers wagon, II
believe you did the whole thing on pur-
pose so you could have the chance of
saying something smart." t."-BostonJ Jour-
mol
Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1901-04-18
REMEMB MBRANcE.

In lone bleak wood wild rose grew.
No eye ever saw 1t, no mind ever knew
But the flower was none the less as fair
As any that ever breathed the air.
It gazed up to the calm, cold sky
And shuddered to think it soon must dis.
1t languished, and Its heart grew chill;
The caress Of a zephyr might well nigh kili,
But passing breeze gave encouragement
And bore afar its delicate scent;
The breeze thus laden kissed a child
Who played in the meadow and, pausing, smiled.
The dear enchantment OF that spot
The child, through lifetime, never forgot.
The soul Of the rose. with Its last sweet breath,
Leaped forth to meet approaching death,
And gave to the breeze every crimson fake;
Twas all 1t had. for memorys sake.
No eye ever saw 1T, no mind ever guessed
The sweetness Of Its final rest.
How came to know it? Twas told by the dew
How sweet Is Remembrance, and tell you.
~. B. Delany in Guidon.
Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1901-04-18
ACCORDING
TO LAW
BY ~. Quad.
Copyright, 1901. by c. B. Lewis.

I wasn't a tramp, but 1 had to be-
come next thing to one In a sense.
With my having been i'll and out Of
work for months, with my being penni-
less and seedy and discouraged, with
my asking for meal here and bed
there as l tramped the highways be-
tween London and Liverpool, no one
could be blamed for sizing me up as a
professional and treating me accord
ingly. 1 made no complaint of that.
What complain of is the vindictive-
ness Of the English law, its readiness
to do up man simply because he may
be poor and unknown. Once let the
law lay hands on you, and it is almost
crime to declare your innocence of
the offense charged. A thousand men
will declare your guilt where one will
dare to doubt it.
One night, in the county of Warwick,
/ came upon farmer who had neither
wife nor children, but was living alone
on his small holding. His name was
Holborne, and, though gruff at first, he
finally gave ME hearty supper and
the privilege of passing the night in his
barn. When supper was finished and
he had heard my story, he offered me a
pipe, and we sat at his door and smok-
ed and chatted for an hour. 1t was
agreed that ] should turn to next morn
Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1901-04-18
TRAVEL AND STUDY CLUBS.
Formed In the United States and
Canada For Visit to the Pam
American ExDOsitiOn.

Formed I'm the United States and
Canada For a Visit to the Pam
American Exposition.
No one of experience needs to be told
how much more pleasant travelling and
sightseeing is with agreeable compan-
ions than all by oneself. There is
truth in the saying that "a pleasure
shared is a pleasure doubled" The
fact that it is well to know beforehand
something of the nature of what is to
be seen and how to get about with the
smallest loss of valuable time and in
convenience and get intelligent ideas
Is equally appreciated by those who
have wandered from their own fire.
sides in search of pleasure. 1t has
been the experience Of thousands Of
visitors to Expositions that loneliness,
though in the midst of great crowds,
robbed them of much Of the enjoyment
in store and that by reason of not ac
quainting themselves in advance with
what was to be seen they missed the
things which might have appealed to
them strongest.
In view of all this, the plan of FORM
lug travel and study clubs by those
who intend visiting the Pan-American
Exposition at Buffalo next Summer
which has been adopted in many cities
and villages of the United States and
Canada may be said to be an excellent
one. The membership of these organi-
cations Is composed of people of both
sexes and all ages practically. The
objects are pleasant companionship, ar
rangements for transportation and ac-
commodations and an intelligent and
comprehensive view and knowledge
of the Exposition. The course of study
taken up comprehends everything In
connection with the trip and the Expo
sition and side trips as well. Among
the subjects are the following:
Routes and Rates.
City of Buffalo.
Countries of the Western Hemi-
sphere and the New Possessions of the
United States, (a) Geography, (b) His
tory, (c) Resources.
Pan-American Exposition, (a) Object,
(b) Arrangement of Buildings and
Courts, (c) Meaning of the harmonious
architectural, sculptural, floral, horti-
cultural, fountain and electrical effects,
with reference to illustrating the prog
ress of the race, ID exhibits, (e) amuse-
ments.
Niagara Falls, (a) Natural Wonders,
(b) Power Development.
Much of the information necessary
to this course of study is furnished by
the Bureau of Publicity of the Pan
American Exposition. Buffalo. while
the remainder is procured by the clubs
from Railway and Steamship offices,
hotels, information bureaus. libraries
and elsewhere. (
This study at any time would be
very interesting and valuable, but with
the prospect of amplifying it with a
visit to the Exposition. where the peo-
pies of the different countries and the
varied resources of the Western Hemis
sphere will be assembled. amid splen-
dors such as were never before pre-
sented to the sight. the measure Is
largely increased.
Gilbert L. LEWIS.
Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1901-04-18

Ahe inspectors Lta - tcAt.
1.-THE lower babies mental arithmetic laaycs much
to be desired. School Inspector S Report.]
What will become OF England il things go on this
way?
There's hundreds Of poor infants learning nothing
day by day.
They fairly set my hair on end with every kind
OF blunder.
All. me. the hopeless ignorance Of babes OF three
and underl
A problem in arithmetic Of quite a simple kind
Seems past the comprehension Of the shallow In.
fant mind.
They fail to grasp-for want. fear. of proper ed.
ucation-
The obvious first principles Of ratiocination
OF science or of history they hardly know a word,
OF Latin, Greek or Sanskrit some have never even
heard.
And when a searching question occasionally try.
Instead Of smartly answering the lower babies cry.
How long am 10 plow The sandss How long am
l, / ask.
To be school inspector aad to ply this wasry
task?
Until the matters mended again can only say,
What will become Of England il things go on this
wayf
-puncb.
Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1901-04-18

which the seams may be stitched. but
there must be tapes stitched in with
every seam because the bias seams
would drag out of shape in no time if
this were not done.
1t is optional whether the scaias shall
be pressed fiat or are stitched ,!9wn on
each side. Each way hils its dryotees.
rhe completed skirt shows how this
skirt may be finished off in g@;lss linen
for summer and also any other mate
rial Tailor suiklRed 30 trimming,
but fiounces will be seen OH afl the
light stuffs OLIVE HARPER
Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1901-04-18

Aggrieved Youth-In your Literary
Outlook in this mornings paper you
say there has not been a volume of
poems printed for six weeks" Yet I
sent you copy of my Songs In Vari-
ago.
Literary Editor-Yes, | remember 1t.
| see no occasion to revise my statis-
tics. Frightful weather, isn't it?-Chi-
cago Tribune.
Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1901-04-18
CHAMP QARK'S LETTER
Commissary rauds In the
Philippines.
HISTORY REPEATS ITSELF.
Proconsular Government Always
Vicious.
BECOMES DISHONEST AND UNJUST

Thomas b. Reed Says Every People
Is Capable of Self Government.
Tom Johnson's Victory Puts Him
In Line For Greater Things-Carter
Harrison Rising Star In the DEM
Jones an Able and Pure Statesman.
Benefits of Primary Elections - A
Word About Poets-Cheap Adver-
Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1901-04-18

Grimsby-.So you want to marry my
daughter, sir What are your princi-
pies? Are you temperate?
Fledgely- Temperate. Why. am SO
strict that It gives me pain even to find
my boots tight Pick-Me-U Up.
Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1901-04-18
THE HIDDEN MEANING.


digh above the crowded street
Countless wires both cross and meetg
Paths are they for fairy feet.
Shod with lightning from the sky,
Unseen messengers glide by;
What they bear none may descry.
Often, when the wind is strong,
We can hear their wailing song,
Borne those slender threads along.
But, in list'ning, who can say,
As the message glides away,
Whether it be sad or gay?
So in every human breast
Lies some mystery, unexpressed
Fen to those one loves the best.
Only we ourselves may know,
As our hurrying life beats go,
Whether it be joy or woe.
clara Boise Bush in New Orleans Times Demo
crat
Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1901-04-18
Especial Washington letter.


History repeats ITSELF is an ancient
dictum whose verify has been demon
strated over and over again for our in:
struction. Mark Twain once sagely
remarked, Human nature is very
strong, and we all have great deal Of
it in u.s." The illustrious Missourian
was eminently correct, far more correct
than the French savant who said, st
is always the unexpected which hap
pens" The expected has happened at
Manila. The most startling headline
in the great dailies is Fraud In Phil
ippines!" Did anybody expect any
thing else? 1t was inevitable that fraud
would be committed, for that has been
the history Of proconsular government
since the world began and will continue
to be until the earth shall perish as a
scroll. 1t makes no sort of difference
whether the proconsuls are Roman,
English, Spanish. French, American or
what not. Warren Hastings. 1.-The op-
pressor of India" as Burke properly
termed that mighty man, is the type of
them all. Racial traits may vary the
manifestations, but essentially they are
the same. The vice is an infirmity of
human nature and in the system itself.
We know from highest authority that
the Ethiopian cannot change his skin
or the leopard his spots. Neither can
proconsular government be made hon
est or just. The most sensible prayer
ever uttered in this world was. Lead
US not into temptation" And procon-
sular government leads all who are
concerned in it into irresistible and
multifarious temptations.
The following dispatch, let US hope,
makes the situation out worse than
it is:
Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1901-04-18
HOTEL

A handsome Cafe, Thoroughly Equipped
has been recently added, where meals can be
procured at all hours OF the day at reasonable
rates.
.lAhn Ranhnr .lH RRnn
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1901-01-04
TRADE WITH THE ORIENT.
A Delegation of business Men Call on
the ,,president.

| delegation of business men from New
York and elsewhere. headed by John Ford.
and comprising the Executive Committee
OF the American Asiatic Association. call
ed upon tie President yesterday afternoon
and presented memorial praying fer The
| Inauguration of certain policies in The
settlement of the Chinese difficulties
which will strengthen the commercial re-
!ations between the United States and
China. The organization was formed
about three years ago and represents a
large number of leading business inter-
ests, the cotton goods trade being espe-
cially largely interested. In the adjust
mant of peace terms with China the men,
bers of the association an oppor-
tunity for securing valuable trade con-
cessions in China which will open Up to
American commerce large sections of the
Empire which it has heretofore been I'M
able to penetrate
The delegation expressed to the Presi-
dent their cordial approval of the atti-
tude of the Administration in insisting
upon the preservation OF the integrity of
China and its opposition to partition
OF the Empire among the European Pow
ers. The memorial presented makes
large number of suggestions for promot-
ing trade relations with the Orient and
asks that they be considered in the fur
Their negotiations which are to be made.
The members of Che association were in
consultation with the President for a con-
siderable time, and he expressed graft
heatiot. their approval of his policy in
China. He gave assurances that all the.I
influence of the United States would be
toward bringing about a peaceful solution
OF the Chinese question without further
trouble, and that every effort would he
made to secure valuable trade conces- |
sions
The committee consisted of John Ford, |
Secretary of the association; SherDurne |
G. Hopkins, New York; A. T. Leftwich, |
Baltimore; Joseph R. Patterson. New |
York; Daniel A. Tompkins, Charlotte. n. |
c.; Clarence Cary, and S. d. Webb, New /
York
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1901-01-04

To the Editor of The Times
I read with interest the article in The Times
OF Monday last. ''nanna's Defence OF His job -
because it my privilege to hear his speech
in the Senate.
You say he said, and he did, that the cost
Of running ships under the American flag being
higher than the cost OF running foreign ships
is due TO the higher wages paid to American
officers, seamen. aud fremen and the better
quality aud greater quantity Of food furnished
them, rs ii. mark you, to be niggardly with
employees, reduce their wages, and measure out
their food 10 them one OF the fetching fca
lures o. the bill!
Now in contrast to this where he declared
that one OF the for the bill. and clinch-
ing one 10 his mind, was that il would improve
the condition Of scaInen, pay them MORE treat
them better and ''invte"-thIt was his word
invite the poor and i'll used from other
tons here to better employment and higher
wages. which | thought at the time was most
injudiciOus argument to USE since he stood al
most exactly Senator Lodge, who hates. or
used TO- immigration almost as badly rs | do
That, however, by the way. Tie question is
how 10 reconcile his two arguments; one. to re
duce the cost of running ships by his bill, the
other to increase the cost by better treatment,
better paw and more employment,
Or does he mean that American officers and
seamen are to be eliminated altogether and the
imported cheaper ones emplOyedI And one
could 90 on. guessing at his meanings. Eiddns
his arguments, ooutrasting~hs points. until moth
ng would be LETT OF it all except that II. Hanna
want the bill. ~
Is there no one in that Congress high handed
and OF independence enough (of spirit and means
BOTH to block such sef-seeking as thatY
Surely Mr. Hanna isn't the power in all that
Congress Of intelligent men! 5. +. y.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1901-01-04
THE CUBAN TARIFF.
Secretary Root ard the President
Confer Concerning Changes.

Secretary Root mad a conference with
the President yesterday. at which the
question of altering the Cuban tariff was
discussed 1t was determined that it would
be inadvisab!e to make any change in the
tariff schedule at present. The schedule
was promulgated to go into effect the list
Of last April. and continue in force for
one year. 1t was adopted after consider
able investigation On the part OF the Off
Gals in Cuba, and IL was announced at the
time that II would not be changed for one
year. There have been number of pro-
tests against certain parts of the tariff.
particularly from the Merchants Associa-
ton of New York, with respect to the cot
ton schedule. 1t is recognized by the Sec
rotary of War that some alteration should
be made in this particular.
Secretary Root explained yesterday that
1t was the intention of the President to
let the tariff remain as 1t is until 1t has
been in effect for one year. This will be
until March 81. A new Cuban tariff will
then be promulgated. and persons inter-
ested will be given an opportunity to pre-
sent their views to the department.
Whether the new tariff will be prepared
by the War Department or the Cuban off,
Gals has not yet been determined