Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1901-04-13

bodies with tobacco and alcohol" In
France alcohol means rot wine nor beer
but spirits.
In the money changers office. at the pay
ing turnstiles, at the card atnissien en-
trance, at the cataloEYotGfsk sind standing
about everywhere andseiways ready to ex-
plain We're pale-faced men in correct even
ing clothes, smooth-faced or side-whisker-
ed, their hair neatly plastered down, their
hands Immediately white. They are men
whose names are known men with reputa-
lions, the maitres d'hotel, buffers and chefs
Of Paris. We are habituated to thinking of
the chef as fat fellow with a spiked mus
tache, white apron and white cap The
real Paris chef looks more like an under
taker, and he seems invariably to be slen-
der. l had a few moments talk with NJ.
Gllles, first vice president of the present
salon, one of the ''correct-est'' looking men
l have ever met. A gentlesEmelancholy
hangs over his pale, finely -osff features.
1T is our fourth eXp,ssition,SS he said.
Each year our success has gone on in
creasing until now all the chefs of the last
good houses who respect themselves from
the point of view of the table have Joined
u.s.
admired a dimpled young pullet. under
whose white skin the black truffies, ar
ranged in tasteful pattern, gave the eff
feet of'a faillot THE pullet in tights?'
he smiled. Yes; but would you believe it,
they are now making limitation truff1es? l
cannot imagine what the substance may be,
but have been told that the chemists, by
thelr synthetic processes are able to imi-
tate the flavor exactly, just as they initiate
the perfumes of flowers and the flayors of
fruits. Everything is going,' he continued.
Meat extracts have replaced the con-
somme, margarine has Eanquished butter,
timed vegetables make dollhouse primeurs
seem foolishly expensive. They are send
ing up tons of tasteless quails and other
game BIRDS from northern Africa, where
Nov, ot-. Al IT,
chickens. Where can you be sure of get
ting real Camembect cheeseo Fruit jei-
lies are made of chemically favored tur-
nlps. Meats jellies are made without
meats
Why the Rich Don't Care.
But how is It," asked, that rich peo-
pie are willing to put up with such substi-
tutes?"r
They are in such a hurry that they do
not notice the difference-or have never
learned the difference!' he replied bitterly.
DO you know how many families of the
Champs Elysees alone have disposed of
their stables to take up the automobile?
That is the way 1t goes Now they ask
respectable old coachmen to go to school
and learn mechanics. If you can't learn
to run the automobile we must replace
you They are in such a hurry they ex-
pect a dinner to be served in three-unar-
ters of an hour. They do not enjoy what
they taste, and they do not taste half the
dishes. They must run off to the theater
Ihey take their luncheons in country tav-
ems, wherever their automobile NAV have
brought them at the feeding hour. They
stoke up while the automobile is being
stocked.
Look at this culotte of beef a Tambas-
complimentary present offered
to our president, NJ. G. SEWN, chef to Sir
Edmund Monson, the British ambassador.
DO you notice that the OK tail has been
boned entirely and rolled like q trumpet
around the culotte? Beautiful. isn't it?
Yet how few there are who appreciate.
Look at the crowds running after sweet
meats"
A Curious Scene.
1t is true that the crowds were strug-
Cling to get at the free candies and cakes
distributed at each end of the hall. The
orchestra was playing a sweet, subdued
waltz. The air was full Of mingled per-
fumes. An unusual proportion of young
girls of good family had been brought this
sunday afternoon to the culinary exhibit
ton as to place Of innocent revelry, of
which there are none too many in naughty
Paris. They sucked their old-fashionad
STICKS OF barley sugar with flushed cheeks
and moist eyes. The pretty creatures had
a hungry look.
But how many of thenr have any cult
nary education? ." asked the ness;roistjo
Old, grande dame, who lives alone in a
palace, and who dimes as well when she
sits in solitary state with her paid COM
panlon as when she gives a dinner. which
she does on an average of two times a
week. II one of her grandchildren or
nleces should mistake a potage Crecv
for potage Rachel / believe she would
ftsinherit the girl. You will notice that we
exhibit twenty-four potages here-tortue,
oukha, mosaique, Palermitaine, q la Diane,
AUX Ambassadeurs, Borghese, Fl1ury
borsch, Colbert, Vivian Cold, st. Ger
main, Palestine chatelaine, Crecy, a la
Ionde, Faubonne Rachel, Bisque, Sevigne
and kolnick. They are the twenty-four
classical soups, and no one can take the
place of the other. Yet how many young
n1stresses of houses could describe ten of
hem? " VI
I have been talking to my friend. ernest
class of New York" he said at another
moment. He says that New York can be
; cum on to Keep up the good old tradi-
ions of the French cuisine
STERLING HEILIG