The Republican journal., 1901-10-31

"a
miserable clay village called Fondack
you pass the night, pitching tents in
the open il you have them; or if not
patronizing the wretched caravansary
The latter is an immense square build
ing, containing large, open court, with
, colounade around it, into which a
number of rooms open. These apart
ments contain nothing in the world but
dirt and vermin, in the midst of which
you are expected to spread your rugs on
the floor and snatch what sleep you can,
with mules and horses stamping close
by in the corridor, occasionally poking
sociable noses in at the doorway. Your
morning ablutions must be performed at
the public trough where the animals
drink; and as you have brought your
food, it is safe to say that you will pre-
fer to take it al fresco on the sandy
plain. From Fondeck, the stony road is
like climbing stairs, now straight up, now
down, over series of low but ragged
hills; until you reach the bridge which
spans the Bou S'fihs river Here you
get the first glimpse of Tetuan, and the
most picturesque scene in Morocco.
Begert with lofty wall, set at short
intervals with massive square towers,
the city shows from the distance only a
few mosques and a heavy. frowning
heap of masonry that forms the citadel.
1t occupies the slope of limestone
hill, two hundred feet above the river,
which flows through a broad valley,
rich with the most brilliant vegetation.
Tetuan has a population of twenty
three or four thousand, mostly Moors
and Jews. Before the Spanish war
there were many Spaniards here, most
of whom were killed, or have since
found the place too politically uncom-
Portable to live in, The city was found
ed in 1892 by the refugees from Gren-
ada, some of whose proud descendants
| still retain the title deeds of their an
cestors vast estates in Andalusia, and
the keys of their stately palaces in
Grenada. Above the town is the Kas-
bah, with large space of open ground
enclosed within the walls. The town is
also surrounded by high walls and lock-
ed up at night. A good deal of the city
is in ruins, having never been rebuilt
since battered down by the Spanish
guns. The streets in the Jewish quarter
are the narrowest and dirtiest l have
ever seen-so narrow that actually two
persons can hardly walk abreast be-
tween the houses; and these lanes are
further darkened by frequent arches
thrown across. In the Mohammedan
part of the town, which is much cleaner,
are some very handsome residences be-
longing to wealthy Moors. Most OF
these mansions have fountains of run
ming water in their exquisitely tiled
court-yards, a la Alhambra, and trel-
lises covered with passion flowers and
fragrant jessamine. Owing to its sud
denly dwindled population house rent
is absurdly cheap in Tetuan, and one
can obtain a regular Aladdan's palace
for almost nothing. There is good
deal to interest one herein the gun
smiths shops, which are said to be the
best in Morocco; in the silk factories,
which turn out scarves, fajas and gorge
Gus handkerchiefs; and in the potteries,
| Situated i'm cayernS outside the town.
where wonderful Azuelos, or Moorish
tiles are made. The views, too, are
worth coming far to see-green valley
and glistening river, gardens and olive
groves, environed by rugged hills and
overtopped by Benz Hosmar, the snow
covered mountain. The climate of this
part of Africa is delightful the year
around and particularly recommended
by European physicians for invalids
with pulmonary complaints. The port
of Tetuan called Marteen, is five miles
to the eastward and a mile from the
Mediterranean, on river whose mouth
is obstructed by the inevitable sand-bar.
1t is guarded by single tower, square,
lofty and extremely picturesque, but
hardly worth the journey to look at
in this land of picturesque objects.
FANNIE B. WARD.