Evening star., 1901-12-21
ADVANCE STYLES IN HATS
FUR ENTERS LARGELY INTO vARI-
ous COMBINATIONS.
Some of the New shapes Which VIII
BE Seen This WiRtcr-ToGues
for Evening Wear.

| The time has passed for year two
when, as rule fur alone enters into hats
designed for dressy wear. 1t appears gem
| orally in combnation-in the crown or in
| the brim-with the crown or the brim, as
| the case may be, of velvet; or, as seen in
dainty creations of the present, of tulle or
| chiffon in full drapery over a foundation
of taffeta, with yelling of lace. 1t was
! likewise in the past that the fur hat was
deemed sufficiently finished without ex-
| traneous garniture-except on occasional
| models, on which appeared ostrich plumes
| or other decoration of warm and heavy
! effect. But now flowers of delicate colors
| and the most airy enrichments Of the pres
| ent vogue in millinery vary ostrich and
other plumages of warm effect in per-
fecting hats effectively of fur
Wholly of Fur.
A very sumptuous and attractive hat,
made wholly of Hudson bay sable fur
| the skins selected for the peculiar richness
of their coloring and their handsome strip
| ing-has low broad crown. rounded on
the edge, and brim pointed at the front,
| rising high al each side, narrow at the
| back and slightly curling all around. Two
| sabes' heads are set down on the point
| at the front of the brim and dropping
| over the back are ten sables tails-five at
| each side--laid one against another, and
| divided by a strap OF the fur run in cut
| steel buckle about five inches long and one
| and one-half inches wide, the bu 'kie bent
| in and clasping the edge of the brim. This
| valuable hat was held at $75: the price of
a model Of the same design of Russian
| sable would be probably about 5000 at the
| lowest figure at which it might be bought.
A very remarkable hat, both elegant and
| novel, medium large in proportion has
very low and broad rounded crown and
fiat brim covered with chinchilla, the
| stripes in the fur running aoloss the
brim. The brim is faced with tulle of sew
eral thicknesses draped u-ier yelling of
cut Irish point lace; over the lace, to the
junction of the brim and the crown, al-
piled in shallow fCStOonS, successive
strings of baroque pearls about the size
of buckshot; under the brim and lifting 1t
at the left side, and raising the brim slight
~ at the right of the front, are large cone
shaped cabochonS covered with strung
pearls, and posed at the front of the crown
is a large white pompon of ostrich PLUM
age, with which is mounted white wisp
i'of cross algrette.
Models for Evening Wear.
In the later hats evolved for wear at the
horse show was discoverable the keynote Of
some of the distinguishing. TO be worn at
places of evening amusement and in the
dress of the afternoon reception. The fire.
quency of the transparent effect, with
floral garniture In these hats. was strik-
ingly noticeable. For the making the Irish
crochet lace (both the real and the imita-
ton productions) and the stouts.Irish woven
cut point are in chief demand. They are
in some models, stretched over or lined
with double tule but in other creations
they are unlined and charmingly airy.
Roses and rose leaves mostly of velvet.
constitute the garnishing. while latterly.
and a novelty of their kind. there have
been brought out in velvet leaves simu-
lating those of the centaurea family of
plants Cor the dusty miller), naturally vel
vety. Roses grouped with dusty miller
leaves form unique, and attractive trim
ming for hat. A model in Illustration of
a large hat of imitation Irish crochet lace,
with square crown, brm fat in front lifted
at the left side and dropping at the back,
the brim faced with many very fine folds
OF bias chiffon, has around the front of the
crown a half garland l0f large roses in
pale shell-pink and cream white sprnkled
over with simulated dewdrops, mounted
with dusty miller leaves and under the
brim a the left side couple of roses with
a cluster of the leaves
Dressy Hats for Social Functions.
A large hat, with square crown and
brim fiat and deep in front and narrow at
the back, of hand wrought Irish crochet
lace, lined with chiffon has the crown
and the brim finished with inch-wide bind
ing of bias piece black velvet and an inch
wide band of velvet around the base of
the crown. At the front of the crown is
a great wheel rosette of white tulle set
with a large cabochon of French gold
around black velvet; at each side are two
large roses of very pale shaded gold-tnt,
mounted with large veined velvet leaves
in pale shaded dull green and a bow of
black velvet at the back.
A large hat of Irish cut point lace, the
crown lined with chiffon and the brim of
bordering, self-edged lace, faced with mar
row folds of bias white chiffon, is trim
med at the left side with large oblong
cluster of large shaded pale dull green
Ien nn1,f ,nd hyr HrnrA 1-,,N+ -
chiffon and cluster of rose leaves under
the brim.
Hats and TOques.
A large hat of shirred rose pink velvet,
with dome shaped crown pressed in at the
center and up-curling brm faced with
folds of bias pink chiffon, is trimmed with
a garland of pink crushed roses laid
around the brim.
A very handsome large black toque, with
broad fiat crown draped over with black
tule covered with a crown piece of black
silk embroidered lace, has the brim. whicn
curls up gently all around. smothered un-
der many closely-set rufffes of doubled
tulle edged with of tiny gold
spangles, and for trimming a bow of black
velvet ribbon clasping the brim at the
back.
A large plateau hat of ciel blue taffeta, COW
cred with concer1tric rows of inch-wide pleat-
ing of doubled blue tulle and faced with
the pleated tulle, has three demi-long blue
ostrich plumes sweeping around the left
side and one plume on the right side. held
at the front by peated strap of tulle.
Flower hats shown among the headwear
for the high toilet, are chiefly in toques
covered with Violets. Tasteful models in
memory is a toque covered with dark Par
ma violets, with a few green leaves showing
amid the blossoms, faced with blossoms;
and model covered with pale English dou-
BILE violets. faced with folds of bias, very
pale violet chiffon.
A High Dress Hat.
A departure from hats, designed con-
fessedly for high dress, appears in q recent
model from Madame Pouyanne of Paris,
with the medium low square crown and de-
pressed in front and curling high at the
sides Of the equestrian hat, yet short at
the back, made Of chenille cord in mixture
of black and with the effect of very dark
gray. The simple trimming OF this ele-
giant but useful hat, is bow Of gray moire
ribbon posed a little to the right at the
aSe of the crown. this hna holding .cOupIe