The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1901-10-27

of the Well-made costume, while the low
priced but effective imitation speedily
loses its shape, its hang and its general
These cheaper dresses carry out the
idea for a time if carefully brushed
pressed and looked after. But a severe
rain storm will often dispose of one of
these cheap frocks in a day, wrinkGng
and spotting the poor cloth, causing the
seams to quicker and the hem to shrink
and sag.
Not so with the weu-made tailor gown
One costing say s100 will wear through
all sorts of weathers without wrinkle.
1t will retain it's shape and may be worn
for a couple of seasons without losing
it's perfect appearance. Some little change
in the fashion of a sleeve or a skirt may
condemn it after this time, but women
have told me that they have continued
to wear a tailor gown often through a
fourth season. A woman will wear an old
tailor gown because the comfortable fit
appeals to her. Then it does duty for
marketing and for rainy weather and
will, after all this, surprise its owner
sometimes by the good condition of the
cloth and the manner in which its lines
have remained.
Zone reason for the lasting qualities
of the tailor gown is, of course, that wom-
gowns are removed on getting home
from visiting, church or shopping and
house gown substituted. Women do
not wear out their old gowns for shop
merly. The fashionable shopping dis
tricts, on the contrary, are centers for
the display of pretty hats and costumes,
especially in the afternoon.
''Women soften the tailor gown for
afternoon wear with a feather boa or
fluffy chiffon ruche, a picture hat and
a corsage flower, but in the morning lin
en- collars and cuffs are more in evil
dence. Then, too, we have made up
several tailor gowns of taffeta silk with
the applied seams and all the severity of
cut that marks the cloth gown. This was
in the spring of this year, however. This
autumn showed decline IN the StrJcuy
tailored styles.
'HThe business woman readily discov-
cred that the cloth gown with a cotton
shirtwaist and a linen collar and cuffs
was an ideal working dress. With the
vogue Of the short walking skirt it be-
came more than ever adapted for the
daily journey to and from the Office. But
while the short skirt has been welcomed
by dress reformers and praised by ply
sicians, 1t has never been grea ~ affected
in the country and on the goff field. In
fact, many women declare the ankle
skirt hideous and refuse to be won over
to the army of those that have adopted
it.
s.In advance of the seasons opening
we felt that the era of the tailor gown
for fashionable women was at an enc.
We began to add lace effects to bodices
and to put in bits of embroidery and
soft girdles and collars We made up
dresses over soft silk Innings and in
serted lace designs in skirts, bow knots
and butterflies, and all sorts of ara
besque figures fashioned of the Russian
lace that is extremely artistic in eombin-
alton with cloth.
This fall the velvet gown, which was
extremely popular with women of fash
ion, has made It's appearance in the
shops, and there promises to be verita-
BILE rage for it until the middle of the
winter, when 1t is quite likely that 1t
will become too poular. For the inev1-
table cheap limitations in the market.
and this is bound to injure the good
gowns The velvet gown is made in
the tailor manner, with bands of silk
and cloth, and tailor finished seams, but,
of course it is vastly different from the
typical tailor gown.
cit is an odd thing that in spite of the
marvellous popularity and long-continued
reign of the tailor-made gown the Amer
lean woman has never taken to it nat
urally as does the English woman, who
will always cling to it. The American
girl is always seen to better advantage
ir her fluffy evening gowns and dinner
dresses.
zone thing that was bound to kill the
tailor gown Of mannish cut was the
fashion to be thin, which gained such
sway last season and continued through
the summer. 1t is still the proper thing
to be thin, and no thin woman ever