The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1901-02-02

Lal tAeSt Llolii Inc sea, IN c ilieaAS VI A'I'i
row streets, each with gutter of dirty
stagnant water in the middle; and the
dark little shops, the oriental costumes
and African physiognomy of the people
remind you strongly of Cairo. 1T wears
a more commercial aspect than any
other Spanish city, and even it's gran
dees are becoming addicted to the west
ern vice Of industry. The ancient Phoe-
nician's love of gold seems to linger in
the air; and even since Moslem days
when the sultans held gorgeous court
here and Malaga, proud of her beautl-
full situation and rich in her flourish
ing commerce, was known as THE
Hand and Mouth of Grenada 1T has
been an important and opulent town.
Few traces of extreme antiquity re-
main, except in the name, which is
known to be Phoenician, but whether
it comes from Melech, king, or Me-
ZACH, salt fish, is still a puzzle to philo-
ligists. At any rate, 1T was the Ro-
man MALAGA. The ancient city, having
like Cadiz-deserted Tyre for raising
Carthage and then deserted Carthage
/ for raising Rome. made terms with
| Sctpio and became munlclplum. 1t
was so old a town that its beginning
! were lost in antiquity when Tarik, Of
the Berbers, took it in the year no.
Under the Moors, who held sway here,
as it happened, exactly seven hundred
and seventy-seven years. Malaga be-
came very paradise on earth, accord
ing to all historians. Ferdinand Ire
covered it from the infidel in the year
! 1887. after a dreadful siege. The king
broke every pledge and followed up his
triumphs with autos-de-fe and whole
sale confiscations; but the names of the
murdered Moors were avenged by the
French some four centuries afterwards,
who sacked the city, killed two-thirds
Of the inhabitants and exacted twelve
million dollars in gold from the re-
mainder. A. few years later they again
pounced upon the unresisting city; and
as last indignity, after their military
promenade was concluded they assem-
bled the citizens in the Alemeda, drew
out the cartridges they had loaded on
the Bidassoa and threw them In the
faces Of the thoroughly cowed "patri-
OTIS" Since that day Malaga has had
several rousing revolutions, and there
is badly substantial house in the town
that Is not more or less Scared with
bullets and cannon balls.
Nowadays the place is good deal
more celebrated for its grapes than its
guns--for it's good red wine than for
patriot blood. The castle of Gibralfaro
Hill of the Pharos"-on its lofty
summit five hundred and fifty feet
above the town, is easily reached by
steep and crooked pathways, winding
amid half ruined Notifications and dens
of fifth and poverty, through the old
Moorish quarter. 1t was originally con-
nected by parallel walls with the AL
cazaba, fortifcation of great strength,
built in 1878, which stands at some lit
tie distance and was once the residence
of the kings of Malaga--now a shabby
prison Even the Grbralfaro, which
looks so formidable from below. is
found to be in woefully dlapidated
condition, its score of rusty cannon
good for nothing but firing salutes. In
the parade ground are two wells, fas-
chatting because Of their mystery.
Both are twelve feet in diameter and
cut through the solid rock into the very
heart of the mountain. One Of them Is
always full the other always empty,
and both are so deep that a stone
thrown In gives back no sound. Gaz-
ing into their mysterious depths, one
recalls with shudder certain Arabian
Nights tales, of political prisoners who
are said to have been dropped into these I
bottomless graves, beyond reach of Ga
briefs trumpet Everywhere on the /
Hill of the aros''-on gates and walls I
and towers, you see engraved the arms I
Of the city-the castles Alcazaba and |
and the two tutelar mar
tyrs, San Ciriaco and Santa Paula, I
with the tanto monta of Ferdinand for /
4 motto. The view from the ramparts
Is superb. Far as the eye can see
stretches the unruffled Mediterranean,
with an occasional sail resting appa
rently motionless on it's surface of bur-
lshed blue. The picturesque city at
your feet, from which only a drowsy
num- ascends to the height. is situated
IN the threshold of a narrow valley, SO
hat it is completely enclosed within
he mountains and the sea-" The
rising in natural terraces
lose behind the town, seem to be bare
# vegetation, yet are clothed with vine
ards to their SUBMITS. Africa is dim
Y visible on the southern horizon; and
I'll around the circuit of the harbor
where ride the ships of the world Gas
many as three thousand vessels am
horing every year in front of Malaga,
re elegant villas set in blooming gar
lens, attesting the wealth derived from r
his extraordinary commerce. Spain
las lost much at the hands Of Uncle
samuel; but the disasters of the recent
var have rather increased than dinin-
shed the prosperity of this. her sec
nd commercial city There are Ger !
nan and English and French colonies
4 the place and even a small Ameri- !
an communicate on friendly terms
18th one another, though each has its :,
special club house and reading-rooms.
he head of the American colony, by
heway, is Mr. Warren c. Bevan, of
baltimore, who came here about twen- .
y years ago, OF course. like all the :
Their foreigners, he is engaged in the d,
aisin business; and to his Is added al :
,onds, wines, and palmetto hats-all y
onducted under the same extensive
oof, and on the same floor, except the :
'ine-cellar. In this we'll arranged and ,
rderly place work is always going on. !
hough this Is not the busy season, you I
lay see women packing boxes of rails !,
IS in cord-dust sorting almonds and 7
,rking and labelling bottles. Both la \