The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1901-03-17
COOKING IN THE SOUTH
RECIPES THAT CAN BE USED WITH
SUCCESS IN THE
NORTH
FRIED CHICKEN VARIATIONS
Methods of Preparing Corn Bread,
WaGses and Raised Biscuits-
H@El EOA-cd liz Cider
With Gcod Results.

1t was Col. Ochiltree who said that he
liked a French chef to cook a dinner,
but that for breakfast no one in his
opinion could Guido an old-fashioned
Southern NANNY. He declared that for
certain dishes the colored WON of the
South eXcelled all the other cooks in the
world. In fact, it is the skill of the col
ored nanny that has made Southe TN
cookery famous the world over Nowhere
else can one get such corn bread, such
fritJerS or such fried chicken While the
cooking of small birds is an art that the
colOred cook alone seems to have mas
tered
Southern cooking however requires va
ration, more perhaps than that of any
other region. A restaurant devoted TO
the exclusive service of this kind of cook
Ing and provided with a genuine mann
ny, bandanna turban and all, was re-
Gently obliged to vary its programme
with another dinner of the Hungarian
variety for the reason that Southern
cooking, no matter how excellent, is
rich, heavy and apt to cloy upon the
palate as a steady diet.
While the charm of the cook ng of the
South is something that seems to be Civ
Ell entirely by the hand and the brain
of the Southern cook, and is almost i'm
possible OF Accomplishment Dy tne
French chef who attempts to initiate the
waffies, the corn fritteGs and the cream
gravy that are so easy to the bandanna
crowned cooks of Norfolk, Richmond and
Charleston there are many easily learn
ed peculiarties in the Southern methods
of preparing foods, just as there are in
the creole and New England recipes.
The breads and the raised and beaten
biscuit can be produced in perfection If
the old-fashioned recipes are strictly fol-
lowed. but il is in their very old fashion
that the charm turks says the New York
Sun. Any attempt at up-to-date i'm
provements speedily spoils the typical
character of the cookery.
The raised biscuit, which is so rare a
dish with NOrtherners, can be made with
success after this method. A pint of
milk must be heated and in this a heap
ing teaspoonful of butter is melted AMI
the milk is allowed to cool till lukewarm.
Then beat an egg smoothly; add to it a
level teaspoonful of salt. a gill of good
yeast, a quart of flour and the lukewarm
1piik. Cover the bowl or pan containing
this sponge with a folded towel and let
1t stand over night in a place warm
enough to insure its rising properly.
The next morning knead the dough
gently for five minutes using enough
flour to prevent its sticking to the hand +;
make it up in small biscuits put them
into a Battered baking pan. cover with a
folded towel ana put the pan in warm
place for half an hour or until the bis
cults have swollen to twice their orig
i1lal size Do not put the pan where t is
too hot to hold the hand When the
biscuits are light brush them over the
surface with a little sugar d ssolved in
milk or with melted bitter and then
bake them brown in a quick oven and
serve them hot
Walics, y hich have a rcgula. place on
Southern breakfast tables. are rarely
seen III the North but when they are
served. some times at seashore and coun-
try inns where old fashioned dishes are
a Speciality, they are always appreciated
They can be made, from rice, cornmeal
and sweet potatoes. The irons used for
baking them always produce better re-
suits when they are old and tempered
to the fire, which must be very hot and
clean.
Raised wafflcs, which plenty of colored
cooks can make exctlently n NorthAIn
kitchens, are mixed over night Take
enc pint of lukewarm milk, in which two
taLlespoonfuls of butter have been melt
ed two tablcspoOnfuls Of liquid yeast
or half of a small cake of compressed
yeast, dissolved in a gill of water two
eggs beaten, a tCaspOonful of salt and a
pound of four. When this batter is thor
oughIy mixed, cover it and keep it over
night in warm place. In the morning
heat the waffle iron butter it; put IN the
batter without stirring it down and then
bake the waffies, which may be served
with butter and powdered sugar.
An old Southern recipe for chicken pic
will be found rich in results if carefully
followed. Select for this fowl Weighing
four or five pounds, clean it carefully,
SINCE it and then boil it gently uiltil il
begins to grow tender in boiling water
enough to cover it. Save this broth with
the 9iblets. When the chicken is done
take it up, cut it in joints as for a
1ricassee, or in pieces of a size suitable
for pie; slice a quarter of a pound of
fat pork very thin and fry it with the
chicken until it is a light brown.
After the chicken and pork are fried,
take them up and stir into the pan in
which they Were cooked a tablespoonful
of flour: stir it over the fire until it is
brown; then add to it a pint of the
chicken BROTH level teaspoonful of salt
and quarter of n tablespoonful of pep
per, stir this gravy until it has boiled
for two minutes and use it for the pie.
Tc make the crust for the chicken pie.
mix together in a bowl with a knife q
pound Of flour, a teaspoonful of salt two
tablespoons of butter and just enough
c,lu wafer 70 holu the paste together.
Then put it on Toured pastry board and
roll it out about an inch thick. Cut a
quarter Of a pound OF good firm butter
into large slices and lay it all over the
paste; field it together in such a way
that the butter is Enclosed in the paste.
wrap the paste in a Toured towel ana
put it in cool place for half an hour
Then roll it out, cot quarter of a
pound of firm butter in slices, lay them
on the paste, fold so as to inclose them
and keep it again cool for half an hour
Then roll it to the thickness of half an
men, fold it in three thicknesses and
roll OFT again. If the butter breaks
through the paste fold it again in a