The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1901-10-06

combining II with stitching Is able to keep
up a look Of newness. A new sample from
this output appears in to-day's initial, and
was sketched In willow green cheviot. The
skirt was laid in tiny pleats to the knees.
and the tucked. stitched and slashed bo-
Iero was over a white silk bodice with inset
pieces OF lace appearing in back and on
the sleeves. The willow green Of this gown
is a newly stylish shade that will be seen
a great deal during the winter. In solid
color goods, as well as in plaids, greens
Will cut a big figure this season. But in
solid goods the lighter shades prevail. with
willow a leader, while in figured stuffs
there is more OF dark green. emerald hav-
ing the call.
a new material that dressmakers are en-
ploying freely is crepe dc chine in some
delicate shade beautifully sppliqued in
cretonne roses outlined with fine gold
thread. This comes by the yard and is
used for whole costumes. separate waists.
fronts of Louis XIV Jackets or for trim
ming. Large colored velvet and chiffon
roses may be bought by the piece and ap-
pliqued on black or cream lace gowns.
SpangIed roses in black also come by the
piece ard are used extensively on hand
some black lace or soft. transparent ma
SO 80 AAARAN@9AfNA- own
was black lace. beautifully appliqued with
cream lace and spangled and jet flowers.
Pastel cloths now seem prettier than they
were last year. Apparently they will be
worn more extens ely this winter than
ever. being used for waists and whole cos
tunes. They have. 10 an admirable degree,
the soft, clinging effect so desirable. and
can be trimmed in endless ways. They are
20 be had in all the dainty shades. An ex-
ample of their use is shown at the left in
the first OF the accompanying pictures.
Pastel blue cloth and heavy cream lace
over white satin were the materials here.
Like pastel cloths, brOadcloths seem 10
have improved in fneness since last year.
though at that time women were ardent in
admiTing the new weaves. Now there seems
10 have been transferred most happily to
the heavier goods for winter, the s~oftness
OF texture and fneness OF surface that
characterized the delicate broadcloths pro-
vided for summer use. The winter goods
are not only admirably suitable for gowns
but are available for separate skirts, these
usually for wear with some variation or
other OF the Louis XIV jacket. Thus COM
posed was the right-hand dress Of the first
picture. the skirt being biscuit broadeloth.
the jacket alternate bands of ivory white
lace and black brocaded velvet.
The richness Of some of the brocaded
velvets offered for such use is remark
able. but for that matter. there are a
largenesS OF figure and a general conspicu-
BUSINESS about al the new brOcaded goods.
Not a few brocaded silks are so striking
that they need TO be made up with much
trimming in order To tone down" the pat
tern of the goods. The central gown Of this
first picture was a pearl gray brOcaded silk
on the skirt were two hounces OF white
chiffon edged with narrow black chiffon
rufllng. cream all-over lace was employed
rs indicated, and black velvet appeared IN
girdle and r~osettes. This was not more
than an average amount OF trimming. so
freely are these silks embellished. The
same IS true % br0caded satins. wherein
figures are large and viii seem q bit star
ing until eyes become accustomed 10 them.
y new and very beautiful Lrocaded satin
has white or cream ground into which is
brOcaded various shades OF velvet flowers.
Shirtwaist materials were never lovelier
than now. and the embroidered patterns in
flannel. cashmere. cloth, silk ana even vel
Vet are handsome In the extreme. On most
OF these patterns the embroidery Is OF the
machine type. but Il IS very effective aud
there are 2 few hand-embroidereC patterns
Tor those 10 whom expense is no object
Then there are the materials with embrol-
deEed sewage borders. sDrinkled al over