davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1893-1920, 1901-04-23
WE MAY HAVE

Fair tonight and WedneS-
day; but SLight changes IN
temperature.
J. N. SHERLER, Observer
Eoddy'S temperature-dt 2
a. m., III; at $50 .. H., 50.
The sun., 1901-06-02

lghtful. and the Watteau hats. the menus
and sashes and fiowered silks and mousse
lines are all that could be desired,
The rumors Of pannieres to follow the
straight-front corset. as natural sequence
are probably nothing more than rumors but
pompadour silks gayly fowercd and cretonnes
are disporting themselves recklessly, The
pompadour silks are especially good. yeiled
In black or white chiffon or net. but are used
alone as well
One OF the novelties being shown in the best
Paris dressmaking houses Is the gay little
coat Of pompadour silk or cretonne Win
postillion back. black waist band. and hand
some buttons. TO be worn over thin white
frocks. The pompadour silk is also used
for the loose vislte which Is rapidly gaining
favor: but so far silk in plain color has been
preferred for these comfortable garments
One OF the cuts shows u visite In whlte
taffeta, trimmed In heavy Irish lace. II Is
lined in shell pink and has scarf and irilis
of white chiffon. The coat hangs quite
loosely to the hips nd has full flowing sleeves
Only slender v, man wears II well, but It's
dainty color and loose flowing lines nuke II an
! admirable garment TO slip on over fragile
| and elaborately trimmed summer frock that
would be ruined by a tight coat. Many OF these
visites are seen at garden parties ana the
The sun., 1901-06-02

can woman to undertake the work. ana the
little bIndery which she started In her own
APARTMENT has Its successor In the Twenty-
third street establishment. which still bears
her name 1t Is In charge OF Miss Foote,
who studied. like Miss Nordhon. at the Dove
bindery In England. Miss Foots has had
about twenty pupils In the last few years.
Most Of the American women who have
studied she said the other day. have been
well TO do. Many Of them have been rioh.
There is no big prize In the way OF money.
making concealed In the profession at present
at least not for the average worker. Unless
a binder adds TO his income by teaching or
combines commercial binding with bis work
he viii not be overburdened with income.
This sort Of binding Is very very slow hHds Ana Ana
will not give. one what would be considered
more than fair wages for skilled LABOR.
Why do women study IT, thenf
TO bind books for themselves, | had pupil
from Iowa. a wealthy woman. who came TO
New York to study In the bindery here, ana
has gone home ana startea 81 a one sssar IN hea T~p
believe. and will bind books for herself and
Another rich woman out West has started ted
take TAX pupils as I DO. here. Another Of the
girls who has studied here 10 going TO have
q her esem hsrs SsT so@s after
leaving here People see artistic bindings
and when they find that 500 is not consid-
cred an extravagant price Tor many oi tnem
| In IT, They are mistaken 80 far as the aver:
age binder y concerned lt Is no royal road
| 10 wealth, though II Is delightful occupa-
ton. and one In which women ought 70 make
The sun., 1901-06-02

The decollete bodice droops OF the shoul-
dcrs. being held in place by shoulder straps
OF black velvet The flowing frill OF the
short sleeve Is trimmed with rose petals and
a huge loose bunch Of pink roses Is fastened
at the left side Of the oorsase.
Another evening gown. in white this time
Is made Of white mousseline over white Lib
erty satin The skirt it tucked vertically
the tiny tucks reaching almost to the founce
In the front. but shaping in pointed ehect
to the back. where the, reach only nan way
TO the nounce The bottom Of the skirt Is
finished by six narrow nounces, lace edged
The full bodice, tucked all over In small YER
tical tucks. has low round decollete which
falls of one shoulder. where Il IS held by
fold Of mousseline. but on the other shoulder
has a small collar Of shirred mousseiine.
beginning at the middle Of the bodice front
and passing over the shoulder and across
the back Of the decolets until 1t shapes
up TO the left armhole. where it Joins the
shoulder strap
The gown is sleeveless save for spray OF
fruit blossoms and a fold Of mousseline.which
fall across the left arm from large spray
Of blossoms on the left side Of the corsage
This floral garniture continues In graceiu
sprays down the corsage and trahs down
tho skirt until Il meets the founces.
Artificial fruit blossoms arc much In de-
mand this season. especially as trimming
for the evening frocks Of young girls, and they
have been wonderfully perfected Apple.
cherry, plum and peach blossoms are all
to be had, In great sprays, but the cherry
blossoms are perhaps the nearest TO nature
v.,vat dovers and foliage appliQued on
The sun., 1901-06-02

washing 1t may hang as u bewttohed. but
there's q chance Of success.
Another thing TO remember In connection
with pique and duck skirts Is that strapped
seams and trimming are a deluson and .
snare. They never shrink with the skirt. and
welted seams are far more satisfactory.
The rain drop design figuring % con-
spicuously In accounts OF French fashions
Is nothing more or less than tho polka dot.
which Is carrying all before II this season.
The triple bell skirt is once more In vogue
and Is particularly chic In the linen gowns.
each OF the three founoes being bordered BY
a band Of contrasting color These shaped
founces must At closely, however. with no
funess save the fare at the bottom skirt.
The goods woven with q selvase border are
hardly practicable for such skirts on account
Of the difficulty Of shaping the hounoes.
In place OF the pin worn at the back Of the
head to hold up the short hairs, many young
girls are now wearing small bows Of narrow
velvet ribbon The short hairs are gathered
up aud tied by the ribbon. which has been
slipped through a strand OF the long hair
Wreathes and sprays Of small nowers are
worn In tho hair. moro than the single large
rose affected during the winter Women
who still affect the very high ooifure often
prefer TO the wreath two stin little clusters
Of blossoms. one on either side the high knot
OF hair and showing from the front.
Lace gowns are as fashionable a. ever, but
little novelty is shown In them. Bise lace
over white Is the favorite and bands or scroll
designs OF white tafeta or cloth are much
used a. trimming An interveiling OF chiffon
! ,.,oula Always be used with a lace gown and
a touch Of black velvet or black tulle Is sell
| dom missing from the lace bodice. The prtn-
| cesse form is particularly effective In lace,
| but only an expert dressmaker can handle .
| prncesse gown satisfactorily.
This Is unauestionably q season OF high
| heeled shoes and dainty hosiery. Dealers
say that not In years have they sold such
| handsome stockings and so many OF them
| as now The silk openwork stockings oi
| last season are still popular, but are less fs-
vored than the embroidered stockings. Inset
| lace patterns and embroidery are much liked
An idea adopted by many practical women
| Is worth remembering when buying stock
| lnes Such a woman never buys . single
| pair Of fancy stockings Of one design. She
| turns her back upon the lures OF vuriety. and
| buys two or three pairs OF each kind select
| ed By this means. even II her darnins II
neglected or the accidents common TO shh
| stockings work havoc. she is fairly sure tc
| be able to mate up one whole pair from the
| demoralzed collection.
Bows OF one sort and another are beins
worn even more than usual Those made oi
ostrich feathers are more expensive then they
| wero last season. but very handsome boas o
| cocks = feathers are being sold by Fifth avenue
The sun., 1901-06-02

record Of the few. and the New York girl
whose cxchequer does not justify re-
course to expensive dressmakers Is likely TO
have troubles OF her own and few successful
wash frocks when june comes.
1t Is only in the South that the wash fro cks
flourish in perfection. The Southern girl has
them by the dozen. always dainty, always
fresh Even the most ordinary Southern
dressmaker has IDEAS as to such frooks. and
makes them for prices that bring them
within reach Of every summer girl So the
Southern girl who il attending school In New
York. and whose graduating week gowns are
sent from her home. is tho envy OF her North
ern comrades.
Il don't know how they do IT, said New
York girl who graduates from one OF the
most fashionable private schools In the
city this week Mamma and have chased
graduation gowns all over this town and I'm
paying si2O for tho one we selected. and here
my roommate has had two gowns sent TO her
from little town In southern Virginia. and
either one OF them IA prettier than mine
She says her dressmaker makes them for ~
each. believe they conjure the things
II conjurins works the miracles IL 10 a pity
that more New Workers do not know the
trick Every dressmaker's shop In town Is
piled high with flmy sheer materials Just
now, and q lace famine Is developing In the
shops; but few OF tho gowns turned out are
fulnlment OF the delicious possibilities sus-
gestcd by the stutrs
There never were before such exquisite
lowered and figured muslins and other thin
stufYs as are shown this summer. but the girl
Of few frocks will be wise 10 turn her back
vpOn the tamDfinp riot ~ color and spend her
money on white materials Nothing else Is
IN tho long run so satisfactory for summer
wear as white. IL Is universally becoming
it washes or cleans more perfectly than
any coored thin stuff il looks cooler than
anything else a woman can wear, and II ad-
mits OF touches Of any color in ribbons. fow-
ers. &c. The white-robed girl In hot weath er
cannot strike a dissonaut note in any setting
This summer. whether from logic or, az Is
more probable. from whim. the world OF
femininity has gone over. foot. horse and
srtillery. to white. One white silk slip and
several sheer whito frocks to wear over 1t
The sun., 1901-06-02
TIE GIRL AND THE SUIT CASE.
She Nay Leave Trail Of Discomfort but she
Can't Help II Now.

Thu Young woman with q suit case has
l.t.ly received criticism In the newspapers
A, A good bit OF nuisance. II Is said OF her
that an. has no idea how TO carry her burden
to keep Il out OF the way and that she swings
through town. along the street and In eie-
vated and surface cars impeding progress
banging other folks's anatomy and max
ing herself rather generally disliked.
The further charge Is made against her
that her trail OF discomfort Is largely unnec-
essary; that she does not need the big case 10
carry the satchelful Of belongings which are
alleged TO rattle around In It,
II IL certainly true that the coat case youn
woman is very much in evidence. but II has
,'o. been suspected heretofore that she wa;
t,mes V,nes when her case holds bagatelle Of
belon sings there are many more when @ Ut u Is Is
packed 70 furs,Tds SndsrsnSen sna Sy %Gh hsr 100
Vet what. ask the grls-college girls and
others-who appreciate the convenience ol
This luggage carrier are we 20 70 oD uO aToH " tha
same convenience that u is 70 men IL Is
necessity OF the present methods OF trans
portatio In big city Ike New l9rk ,,,
or a dance. Into this convenient box with
handles goes her gown for the evening and
il is carried by her directly 70 the place where
rom ifns IA Jersey city train 70 an uptown resi-
dance, or from the Forty-Second street sta
lion % Harlem Or Brooslyn Is rssy Ra ,Isd iGr ah'A
suburbs takes equally in her hands the pos,
sibilty OF not seeing her frock tili the mex
day unless she has been very t2Tehanded nh " !,
Tor Tor long distances and pneumatic tubes "a
rhunting luggage across the city In a Few mih
utes are fact the public yill nave 70 accep
The sun., 1901-06-02

of the clever dressmakers attain IT, rar-
isians are more knowing In such details thah
New York dressmakers. and even the cheap-
eat frock worn by French woman now
has tho fashionable fare.
.The silhouette is tho thing. One must
get the proper Silhouette said one OF the
ereat French dressmakers In interview: Out
that silhouette Is banning problem.
Tho average American dressmaker goes
sersnely on making drop skirts. Of which the
silk underskirt Is finished BY one straight
pleating and dust ruffie. and merely touches
the ground in front and at the sides. while
the outside skirt, with It's elaborate trim
ming is much longer. and fops about on the
floor. q del ected and disheartened mass OF
fr,lls and iaoes that make locomotion for
the wcarer an appaliing problem and certainly
serve no asthetc purpose.
The French undersairts on the contrary.
have over the dust rune deep hounce'
shaped to give broad fare and spread on the
floor. a. the sides and in 'front.' as well as az
the back. This founce is laden with narrow
frills, and has 50 much body that holds
the soft overdress away from the feet, makes
walking possible. II difYicult. and gives the
proyerbial billo wing laces frills a chance
TO billow. Instead Of subsidins into huddled
mass of crumpled material on the noor.
After the white gowns. black and white
holds unquestionable precedence for sum-
mer costumes, save with very young girls.
Tho smartest Of the foulards arc In white
and black, relieved by touches Of color. pref
erably one OF the light shades Of blue and the
inevitable black velvet.
Never before was 30 much black velvet
used during Q spring season a. this year
Tho advance orders received by manufao-
turers foretold q great season for the ribbon.
but Id not tell half the story. Retail dealers
have kept up Q perpetual cry for moro, and
torrents Of black velvet ribbon are still pour
ing from the factories. No hat no costume
seems complete without this black motif
Sometimes. 1t takes the form OF sash. cor
sage knot or hat trimming OF black tulle, but
the velvet Is more common.
White silks or satins yelled In black net
grenadine. tulle. &C.. are exceedingly pop
ular, the sheer black material being most
requently treated with inset designs OF
chantlly lace. Another effective variation
of the black and white idea employs black
net or tule over some delicate shade OF silk
with an interveiling OF white chiffon. The
effect Of the soft flush OF color through the
white chiffon and black net Is indescrbably
charming. Here again the light blue. which
Fashion has elected as the favored attendant
OF black and white. 10 often used. but creamy
The sun., 1901-06-02

60 for al frssco teas and dinners
Another use for the pompadour silk Is
being found In the Triauon hoods Of lowered
silk and lace, which are being shown by few
exclusive houses and will make most attrac-
tive shoulder wraps Partisan women are
adopting patches Of mild sort, with other
Louis XVI. modes. but from powdered hair
In this age OF sanitary mania women are
presumably safe
The loose Eton, which has never found
much favor with American women. ia much
worn In Paris One OF the cuts gives such a
model IN travelling frock Of hyacinth blue
light weight cloth The skirt Is plain and the
jacket trimmed only by broad collar Of
blue panne dotted in white and large silver
buttons The hat accompanying the gown
Is of unbleachcd grass straw with a scarf
OF blue and white panue and wrought silver
buckle
The unbleached hat and burnt straws are
rapidly gaining popularity. and there is d
great demand among mlliners for the straws
Just a. they come from the weaver. without
bleaching, colorlng or stifening
gown OF pale blue voie has a round bodice
with a deep yoke Of chiffon From this round
yoke, which reaches TO the shoulders, falls
deep Vandyked collar Of heavy lace, laced
together in front with a scarf Of black and
white dotted silk The undersleeves are Of
chiffon. The skirt X tucked lengthwise In
groups, and has at the bottom a broad band
OF heavy lace set between two groups Of
tucks running around the hounce.
An all white gown Of organdy is made
with a tucked skirt finished with the usual
deep nounce Around tho bottom OF this
founce I. n broad band of cream lace. Above
the lace are tucks and from these tucks
strips OF broad lace insertion. matching the
band, run up the lounce, In alternating
long and short lengths. and finish In points.
The iounce Is joined 70 the body Of the skirt
by band Of the lace
The bodice has deep tucked collar. bor-
dered by lace Lace bands run around tho
bodice slopinR upward in front and ending
In points on either side OF a finely tucked
front pleat The sleeves are tucked length
wise on either side Of a line of lace. The
conventional touch OF black velvet is intro
duced in the gIrdle,
Matine,s and dressing gowns seem more
elaborate than ever before. but the prefer
| ence - for swisses and other wash materials
| rather than for the silks and crspe-, and
! the elaboration comes in IN the miles Of lace
! and Insertion used The nchus and flowing
sleeves of the mode are particularly adapted
u these loose house gowns and even HON,
! seamstress can achieve triumphs in dressing
| gowns II properly directed and supplied
with the right swiss or muslin and the requi
The sun., 1901-06-02

pink IL unquestionably more satisfactory
from an artistic viewpoint.if not 30 fashionable
The light blue especially liked by Partisan
dressmakers at the present moment Is not
the turquoise OF last season, nor the bleu cisl
which is still used. but q shade called blou
anceiique, which Is pale and tribe cold. only
a shade darker than last years ice color.
Champagne color is the latest mode In Paris
and is seen In everything but. after all, II Is
only a mild variation upon the modes and
ecrus, and Is best described by It's own name
for IL Is as nearly as possible the color Of
champagne. Moss green Is another favor
ite color In Paris. combined with pale blue
almost as inevitably as black and white
Pushing whito costumes and black and
white costumes hard for place come cos
tunes in all black These are particularly
smart for evening gowns and are occa-
sionally lishtened by painted or embroid-
cred mousseline medallions set in lace by
floral gsrniture. or by sprinkled dewdrops
which are merely tiny pendants Of crystal or
rhinestone fastened TO the material but free
TO move and catch the light
black tulle gown shown 10 ono OF the
cuts achieves distinct originality and chic
In fashion comparatively simple II Is
made up over black satin souf'is and has
skirt Of the tulle. slightly shirred at the
The sun., 1901-06-02

woman Of taste. Many women are painting
for their own use medallions on moussellne'
even the boarding school amateur artist being
abls 10 get effective results with little
practice. The laces, particularly the black
Chantilly, come In designs that lend them
selves readily 10 wreathing the medallions.
Another detail OF frock trimming that many
clever women are arranging for themselves
Ia the embroidered collar for linen frocks.
Tho art needlework stores show these collars
In all shapes. cut and ready for stamping ana
embroidering. Such collar and possibly
cuff bands. in white or "oru. embro'deIed'
will make very simple linen gown extremely
chic, and will be delightful fancy work Tor
summer days. Some industrious girls have
had very plain frocks Of white. "edswood
blue OF ecru linen made, and are eInoroider-
Ing a number Of effective collars for each
frock Russian lace embroidery Is much used
for these linen frocks.
Apropos OF Wedgwood blue. its popularity
and tho rise of the large ornamental button,
have led TO the introduction Of very stunning
wedgwood buttons-the white figures on
blue ground being set In rim OF dull gold
or silver.
Batistes are being worn even more than
they were last season and appear In new
guises every day-plain batistes. embrold-
cred batistes. striped batistes. dotted batistes
the list is long one and the materials are
charming Batiste laces and embroideries
hold their own and are used for trimming
anything from cloth to chiffon. Embroi-
cred medallions Of batiste set In heavy lace
are used with good effect on voile and other
lightweight woods
These medallions are also set in the deep
lace collars which are more and more In
evidence Louis XIII lace collars. dropping
over the shoulders, often make the only trim
ming Of simple stitched or strapped frocks.
Many Of the lacc collars fall clear To the waist
line In front, and even on evening gowns
one sces heavy vandyked collars Of lace fall
The sun., 1901-06-02

site number Of yards Of lnce The fow@ed
stlifs that are shown In such profusion are
50 suited to tho wash kimona that that USE
ful garment l. more o.ulqr tn N ever.
The woman who buys ready mado piauf
duck or linen walking skirts makes u sad
mistake For some occult reason the manu-
faeturers insist upon grins those short
The sun., 1901-06-02

Ing from the round decollet6 suggesting the
days Of the Stuarts
One hears Of Stuart and of Tudor modes.
but It is the Trianon that dominates the
fashionable world. and all the Louises con-
tribute their sharcto what the milners and
dressmakers arc pleased TO call Tranon
modos. On the whole. tho tendency % de-
The sun., 1901-06-02

its apparent simplicity Ia q costly affair. In
the same way the most expensive and beau
tful French lingerie 10 eIquisitely hand en-
broidered but bears little lace.
Checked and striped veilinGs are slowly
making an appearance In the shops and betns
snapped up at once by watchful dressmakers.
the prettiest that have been shown 90 far. and
over white or pale blue make very ohio gowns.
The sun., 1901-06-02

waist but plain to the knees. where u flares
In deep full nounce Of the tulle. sprinkled
with the loose petals Of artificial pink roses
These rose petals must not DE Of Uniform
sze or applied at regular intervals. but must
produce the effect OF being thrown care
lessly upon the black surface. A soft sack
Of the tulle has ts end sprinklsd With petals
The sun., 1901-06-02

skirts dip In the back and the result 10 Ia
mentable Retail dealers have walled ln
vain. and all Of the ready-msde walking or
golf skirts In wash goods have TO b taken up
several inches In the back. Few filters 40
oomplish the alterations without Giving the
skirt free rein for Its vicious propensity 10 dip
and sag and corkscyew.
II one cannot 60 10 reliable tailor for ones
plQue golf skirt ono must put tho material
through an exhaustive course Of homo shrink
ing and then have II made up by sesmstrsss
under ones own eye. Even then afJsr ons
The sun., 1901-06-02
FIVE BooKBINDIyo ny WOVEN.
Ths Art Il Fascinating. says Miw Sordhon
bat Not Especially proAtabls.

Very slowly the number OF American women
Who do artistic bookbindins 10 Increasing
rlls class does not include the women who
dsASn book covers for the trade. II means
only ,aoss who do the actual binding They
work 10 leather. doing II all by hand.
Niss Evelyn Negdho6 was the erst Amsst-
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1901-07-27
WASHINGTON NOTES.

Surgeon General Wyman, of the Ma
rine hospital service, today received a
notice that the Louisiana state board of
health had agreed to permit labOrers en-
route from Porto Rico to Hawaii to pass
through New Orleans without detention
upon representations that Porto Rico is
free from infectious disease.
A cabIegram has been received at the
interior department from Lieut.. Bertholf,
who was sent to Siberia to purchase
reindeer for use in Alaska, saying that
he had arrived at Vladiyostock and has
purchased 500 deer for Is roubles each.
The price of the deer is about 500 IN
American money.
Secretary Hunt. of Porto Rico. cabled
the state department: News of presl-
dents proclamation was received
throughout Porto Rico last evening.
There was d general expression Of pOpu-
announce popular rejoicing and send
messages of congratulatlon to the presi-
dent and Gov. Allen
The navy department has received a
report from Capt. McCalla concerning
the bursting Of & shell in one of the thtr-
teen-inch guns in the after turret of the
Kearsarge, while that ship was engaged
in target practice with the North Allan
tic squadron off Newport which shows
that the gun was in no wise damaged.
Further information reaching here re-
injuries sustained by the big gun are
located at point about seven feet from
the muzZle. At this point the bands
are deformed for a distance or about
six inches. These bands are the portion
of the surface Of the gun tube lying be-
tween the grooves that make the
rifiing OF the gun.