New-York tribune., 1901-01-06


homes are none the less in the "tudjar's'' power.
He provides them with wool. sees to the paying
and other supplies they need. and. keeping
studiOus eye the progress of their work, ap-
propriates the carpet when 1T IS finished. and
adds il TO his store of merchandise to be taken
10 the next fair for sale.
The large firms mentioned above are nat
uralIy the chief sources of change seeking to in
troduce when they can all those time and labor
saving devices which the mechanical genius Of
the West never ceases to proffer with eagerness
to the Orient But although new notions are
successfully introduced from time to time. and
although the aniIine dyes have been steadily
working their way into the art IL is interesting
TO read of the tenacious fidelity 70 old customs
which thousands of the weayers still observe.
The weavers' guild, which, it appears, exists
side by side with the practical slavery Mr. Num-
ford describes makes no effort TO dictate as
what a member shall be paid for given piece
of work "Its chief function is TO prOtest-and
that heartiIy-against any innovation upon this
old method OF procedure. to lift up it's voice in
rebellion when any mention is made of the i'm
portatiOn of European machinery TO aid in the
spinning dyeins of the yarn Ons Western
invention of indubitable value was promptly re-
jected because. while saving wool for the en-
rlOyer it cost the weaver a little time. But new
mechanical devices would always be looked upon
with disfavOr among the weavers, no matter
whether the latter might gain by them not.
They prefer old ways. Their looms are con-
structed with primitive simplicity. They use
old patterns over and ever again. and though
some weavers keep a sample before them while
they work, it is common for the design 20 be
carried IN the head. Women do most of the
work though in Persia boys are frequently EN-
pioyed. MIR. Mumford saw eight OF nine OF these
lads making a copy of the famous mosque car
pet OF Ardebil. which is preserved at South
Kensington. The master OF the loom vas
boy OF twelve!
Curiously. skill at the loom never wins for =
man. woman or child -thea fpeeulfar distinction
which can be claimed by a thoroughly COM
petent dyer: ''Pre-eminence in dye working.
says Mr. Mumford carries with it in Oriental
countries a dignity almost akin TO that of priest
hood AS a tree is known by its fruits. the dyer
has place among his fellows by his hues- This
village hero walks abroad in raiment expressive
OF his prosperity. but there is nothing about the
dyer's garb or person in which he glories as he
does in his dye spots He regards these as
marks OF honor. Red or green. or purple. from
head To heeis.'' he is indeed a lamboyant figure
in the scenes sketched by the author Of this
book He is strong on the exclusive OF
vegetable OF animal materials. and in the
handling of them he ahides by the laws which
have been passed down to him through one gem
Grafton after another, the profession being he
reditary. He keeps record of his secrets, save
in his own brain. Mr.. MUmfOrG can tell u
nothing OF the means whereby the beautiful col
ors are secured. beyond indication of the i'm
portance of manipulation in the later stages,
which he gives US in this fragment:
The great display OF skill, after the actual de-
cOcting and mixing of the fluids. lies in
curate estimation of the length Of time that
yarn should be subjected TO each solution. Ii Is
upon precisely the principle. and alto
Sether delicate and important a task.
the timing of a Photographic plate Away at
the back of each shop is a ladder, leading from
hung to dry. How long dried skein should
hang in the sun is another question Of moment.
Passing through the square ON bright day. you
may see the tyerS sitting on the roofs of their
establishments staring at the suspended Skeins
AS long as the yarn hangs there the master
stands sentinel There is a particular instant
when the suns work is done and done properly.
When il comes il finds the dyer on guard. and
he hurrieS the Skein to cover in twinklingy A
minute too soon minute too late, and the
rest of his professional existence would be
fast gray"
Close analysis of the weaving processes, which
Mr.. Mumford, standing over the looms has
been able to watch. would carry us too Sar. az
would consideration of the practices of those
shepherds and wool merchants who are able
through the vast pasturage at their disposal,
20 raise nd fhs