Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1901-09-05
NOTES OF TRAVEL.

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Special Correspondence of Gazette and Journal.
Yellowstone Park. Aug. 27.-As we
approached the Upper Basin where
play the mightiest eeysers on earth, We
seemed to be nearing busy, manu-
faoturing city with whiffs Of steam
escaping from hundred pipes across
the grayish white, sepulohral- hued
waste which Lord Dunraven, OF yacht
ing memory, said gave him the i'm
preston that some modern cities had
been overwhelmed and had SO lately
sunk amid flames into the bowels Of
the earth that the smoke of their ruins
was still ascending through heaps Of
smouldering ashes. This basin covers
Tour square miles and contains 26
Clouds OF vapor hang shroudlike above
it, aud from the pine covered hills tbat
surround 1T whiffH of steam burst forth
here and there above the trees. with
feeling OF suppressed excitement We
neared it. expecting and finding a
marvel at almost every step. The
odors OF a boiling sulphurous vat alter
mated with the wholesome breath Of
the pines in our nostrils. AS we crossed
Firehole River the Riverside geyser Was
making elaborate preparations to go off
from its rough, blistered mortar-shaped
cone. 1t grumbed, then was still, the
water within rising and falling 10 feet
at time in the horrible Shiny funnel.
After each third attempt 1t rose to the
level OF the lips with rush and
sullen hoave that sent the crest of the
wave flowing over the rim into the river
at its base. After half an hour devoted
to thus making up Its mind 1t suddenly
sent broad arching column of water n
hundred feet In air, accompanied with
an enveloping veil Of steam. 1t con-
tinued to play for 15 minutes, more
venomous hiss of steam sometimes send.
ing spray of water higher than the
main column. 1t curved over the river
and fell into 1T in silver spray until
the wind changed when 1t turned and
chased the group of spectators with
scaldine drops and stream, showing a
human intelligence in the way it fol-
lowed them as they fled screHming and
laughing.
The other great geysers are more or
less unreliable and tickle in their times
OF exhibiting their powers, but Old
Faithful may absolutely he depended
upon to go off every Go minutes and is
therefore beloved Of tourists. Punctu.
ally as the hour approached we heard
him preparing to keep his appointment
with US. As IL trying to get up Its
courage the water rushed ngain and
again to the mouth, sobbing as ii fell
back again then with q mighty rush
and roar, glittering column of dia.
monds, iridesceDt and superb, rose 100
feet in air, stood seeming still for
few minutes, then fell, confused mass
OF water and steam, and overilowed its
orator in rivulets Of scalding water
flowing in every direction. From all
over the gray white blistered and
scanned field of formation come hollow
bellowing sounds, Kisses and foars.
When the Giantess relieves her feelings
she shakes the whole region around,
including the hotel, with shocks like
those OF an earthquake and adjacent
springs disappear for time, then her
neighbor, the Beehive. begins to play,
proving that there are subterranean
connections under the crust Of earth.
The monarch Of all Is the Giant, which
only plays twice week, but sends yp
an immense column Of water for $50
feet with noise like passing train
of cars.
Interspersed among the gsysers are
springs OF great beauty, steaming,
Missing, rumbling, or only gently
pulsating, as their humor impels. In |
one of these, rising through the sheet |
OF sapphire water is eonvoluted crater
like q giant morning glory. In 1t, as
in all of these springs one may look |
through the clear blue water TO bottom |
less depths and shudder to think where |
an unwary step might plunge one. |
That animals are sometimes trabped by |
them was proved by the bones Of an |
elk that one spring was adopting Into |
its crater and ornarnenting with fine |
deposit. Several painful accidents have |
recently occurred to visitors. A man
was lying helpless at the hotel who had |
been badly soalded by Old Faithful,s |
overflow and at the Point Pots two |
ladies were recently seriously injured
by slipping into the boiling mud. The
Paint Pots are watts in which is seeth- |
ing mass of fine clay, pink, salmon,
creamy white and pale blue. In one OF
them the steam, putting through the
thick pasty material moulds perfect
rose in full bloom. In another, after
home profane language and muttered
arguments down below a spat OF mud
shoots suddenly 10 feet 10 air, falling
back with sullen thyd. But the most
yet repulsiyely fascinating
of all 10 the mud geyser there, SEEM
ingly, wicked demons dwell Ia a cave
on each side Of the large crater and
throw mud at each other with malevo-
lent whoops and oaths. Lights, sounds
and smells are alike uncauny. The
mud is lead-colored, pasty and III
smelling and is eieoted with tire.
force from each side Of the
crater and swirls madly around the
seething oouldroD, dark, malodorous
vapor arising from it. The mud
splashed trees testify that 1t sometimes
INDUCES in more violent fits of rage.
A part OF the way from the geyser
basin is over the "Corssorew Road"
which its name accurately describes
A sharp descent is made by series Of
alternate short curves to the right and
left. Down these we rushed, the BRAKES
shrieking on the wheels, the horses
almost at run. The drivers evidently
snioyed stirring the blood OF horses ard
passengers in the mad race by which
they counted on making up some OF the
lime lost in the day IS drive Of 48 miles.
Emerging from the forest there burst
IN US glorious view, our first sight of
ellowstone Lake, with its wooded
Glands and surrounding mountins. It
Is The largest lake in America at SO
great an altitude. 7,7Ss feet above sea
70 q .