davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1901-06-01
New Ideas in Lingerie.

Some clever woman with capital and en-
ergy ought to start laundry for expen-
slVe lingerie, where 1t would be treated
with the tender care it's beauty and cost
illness deserve. The need for such a place
is less urgent than it used to be in one
way, for the modern laundry does not
merit the anathemas that used justly to be
hurled at its predecessors, but still there
is want felt. Every year strengthens
the love women feel for dainty lingerie, a
love which now is reaching a height of de-
votion.
Silk underwear is what many women
like above all other kinds. 1t is held to be
more healthy than lawn, though less so
than wool But unfortunately, it does not
launder well, and that must be a consid-
Grafton. Now, therefore, numbers are or
dcring cambria robes de mutt, or, rather,
robes de bOudor, for, while they will wear
for the last chat before the fire the dain-
test and loveiest nightdresses underneath
their saut de lit, their actual sleeping
garb is something less diaphanous. OF a
verify occasions demand their correct toilet
at every turn.
The most exquisite pattern for the robe
de mutt to take is undoubtedly the en-
pre, and some of those. now sold might
actually be gowns that We're worn at the
beginning of the nineteenth century,
though then the bellies actually walked out
nymph-like. The bodice part is closely in
sertioned with Valenciennes lace, and
there fiounces of lace at the foot be
meath a broad band of delicate tucks. A
fiat V-shaped collar all insertioned and
lace edged. trims the throat of some
though others are more correctly finished
with narrow tucker of lace. The
sleeves are a great feature. They reach
only to the elbows and are made simply
of broad f1ounces of Nalenciennes, with a
little lawn to give them a fictitious SUBJ
stance. Such are called folly sleeves and
truly fascinating they are, as folly al
ways is.
No one who is smart calls her dressing
gown a dressing gown. The new name is
French and is Saut dc lit. In this lovely
and enveloping wrap the best models are
made a la Josephine or Iempire, to use
a Synonymous term, and Sofe silk COM
poses them, with inletS of lace that suggest
a high bodice and. again, full, lovely folly
sleeves. But for the delicate and the cold
far more suitable fabric to choose is Ze-
mana cloth, since it is silky, exquisitey be-
coming, of the most raviShing colors and
very cosy. Then. too, less elegant. but in
their way beautiful, the dressing gown
fannels sold, which, with insertions of
lace, make charming wraps Coarse lace
is their prerogative, and it aims at bold
and striking effect.
Evening star., 1901-06-01

at the top and bulging in bishop puffs at
the bottom. Sash, stock and wristbands
may be OF ivory satin ribbon, the little lace
edged turnover collar and cuffs, now so
much in vogue, adding a dainty touch.
Some of the null and India lawn gowns
display pointed and round yokes that are
marvels of fine needle work. Airy entire
deux in medallions and blocked squares of
applied lace appear upon the solder ma
terials, while null guimpe may be all of
drawn work, cObwebby fine.
Other Summer Dresses.
These open-work. detachable yokes, be-
ing cool and easily renovated, are consid-
cred useful wrinkle for the frocks of
smarter materials, China silk, pongee,
surah and satin, which, from their very
expensiveness, are expected to serve after
commencement for summer party gowns.
Many charming little undersleeves are
seen, of course, with the bell flowing effect
alone, and sometimes daintny simple
frock will be cut slightly square at the
neck, to show a girlish throat and a thin
neck chain with a turquoise pendant.
Ihe graduating maid may wear also,
pearl or coral stick pins, a small brooch of
turquoise matrix, or luck bracelet, which
Is no more than a gold wire set with a
IourIleaf .lio,l clover in tinted enamel. Coral,
which is always the privilege Of youth,
| makes delightful blot of color against the
sheer, white gown.
The Proper Jewels.
The most learned young ladies, however,
have put their well-stored heads together
and resolved this year that it will be the
most perfectly fait for a graduate to
wear pearls, real ones If possible, and imi-
tation if her father can't afford anything
better. One pretty string, worn up close
at the top of the collar. is the most seemly
way to utilize them, and what every COL
lege girl yearns for in her deepest heart
of hearts more than she yearns for honors
and Greek prizes is La Valliere, made of
a thread-like chain of gold with one single,
large, irregularly shaped fresh water pearl
pendent from it's center. The chain Is to
be hidden inside the high collar OF her
graduation gown, but the pearl Is to hang
out conspicuously just under its owner S
round, white chin.
Evening star., 1901-06-01
BOas Will BE Popular.
From the London Express.


Boas Of every description, whether of
feather chiffon, will be much worn dur
ing the coming season. In Paris many dis
tinguished toilets show no ruffles round
the neck. Inevitably we follow their lead :;
consequently it is almost certain that after
the next few months the long-favored and
much-vaunted boa will be consigned to OBJ
livion.
For this reason, however, 1t will still
enjoy a certain vogue, and among the par
ticular kinds which will be popular Will be
painted mousseline. ruffled-edged with
pleated strands of coarse chenille, which
latter will also confine the streamers in a
species of trellised network reaching half
way down. The f1oWer-petaled ruffies will
also be much worn, and a very pretty fash
ion which will be generally adopted is the
wearing the left side, where the boa
joins the long strand, of a bunch of beau
tifully made imitation flowers.
These must not, however, be of the COM
mon order. The French, who excel in this
branch of manufacture, have achieved
such a success that at first sight it is diff
ficult to tell whether the flowers are real
or artificial.
Evening star., 1901-06-01

chemise that formed part of smart
trousseau was finished at the top and
around the sleeveless armholes by hem of
cambria about three-Quarters of inch
wide set on with very narrow beading to
tiny band, carrying two infinitesimal
tucks, also of the cambria, this latter being
of such fine quality that the color of the
bebe ribbon run through it was distinctly
discernible. This chemise was constructe ed
entirely of fine cambria, but finer cambric
could easily be utilized for the main 3art,
though the finer quality is essential to
working out the indescribably dainty effect
at the top.
Some combinations carry no fullness at
the top-are simply hand embroidered, with
little leaves, scroll and French knots, in fine
white embroidery cotton, an edging of tor
chon lace and ribbon run insertion COM
pleting the whole. Truly nothing is so tell
ing as good hand needlework where under
clothes are concerned.
Evening star., 1901-06-01
To Brighten Carpets.

When a carpet comes to be laid afrosh,
the cOlors are apt to look somewhat dinCy
and certainly not so bright as was expected
To remedy this use a pailful of warm water
containing two or three tablespoonfus of
household ammonia, soft flannel and two
fresh cloths for rubbing the carpet dry
after it has been washed with the first
flannel and water. This treatment will,
when the carpet is quite dry, be found 10
give a most efTectual renovation, buS it
must be remembered that certain green's
will not bear ammonia. In such cases
clear warm water will freshen and help
the carpet very much.
Evening star., 1901-06-01
THE GAINSBOROUGH HAT.
style Has Found Favor Since Recoy-
cry of Famous Painting.

cry or Famous Painting.
From the Millinery Trade Review.
There is little reason to doubt that the
reported finding in Chicago of the long
lost portrait of the Duchess of Dcvonshire
has given impetus to the restora-
ton to fashion of the style of
hat seen in the picture. At once
at the news of the recovery of the cele-
brated picture some of our best milIiners
We're placed upon their mettle in the re-
production of the elegant hat so gracefully
poStd on the handsome head of the famous
duchess. But since then there has come
counter advice to the effect that the pic
ture eXhumed from the double -bottomed
trunk in Chicago is not the vertahle stolen
GalnsborouSh. \ strange concatention of
miSadVentureS, surely, Or SO Il seems 70
be. We could but hope for the genuine
ness OF the picture, and greatly in the in
terest of our wideawake and tnterprisinr
mllllners. At any rate, the Gainsborough
nat, under the circumstances of IFS rein
PRODUCTION. was bound to attract attention
Remembering that 1t is a large pictur-
esque hat, with broad brim and square
crown smoothly banded around with rib
bon, and trimmed at the left of the front
or the crown with a full tuft Of softly
dressed ostrich plumeS, it appeared in sew
eral of the different fashionable braids and
in several of the popular colors a very
handsome model in illustration is of blacl,
crlnollne braid relieved with n tracery de-
sign of very narrow. black plain straw
braid. The crown is encircled with a band
of doubled No 40 black satin ribbon
which terminates In bow at the back. the
bow held by a rhinestone buckle and a
TUT or SIX ostrich plumes, left TO nod at
will, is stuck within the band At the left
side of the front. Whatever may be the
outcome of the story of the Devonshfre
portrait, the Gainsborough hat will prove
a model, probably, for shade hats for
summer. Recognized as a classic IT is to
be hoped that no attempt will be made to
improve upon the idea embodied in it hy
Incorporating modification.
Evening star., 1901-06-01
White Leads for the Sweet Girl
Graduate.
she WEARS PEARLS LIKE A BRIDE
Lovely Fabrics for Class Day
Toilets.
V A r IE ETY IN B U TTON S
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star

NEW YORK, May 80, 1901.
The needs of the sweet girl graduate are
Of rather a dominating interest ell along
the clothesline just now, Hitherto the dam
sci who transmits her burning thoughts to
a ribbon-ted manuscript to elhctrfy the
awestruck audience has been pleased to
dress in white, like bride a baby. This
is the century of novelties, howe ever, and
fair valedctOrians and sweet @oratresses
may elect to dash in a becoming and not
at all unwelcome touch ofcolor For i'll
stance, lots and lots of sweet-little gradual
tion gowns have been built of crea m tinted
and embroidered batiste, dropped and fitted
over foundation skirts and bodies Of green,
or rose, or strong hyacnthe blue taffeta.
AS a matter of fact, the pure white grad
uating gowns are few and far between and
those that have been seen have been made
of glittering louisine. crisp.sil< muslin, or
clinging crepe de chine. Put if ever maid
seems sweet and Interesting, it is upon hta'
graduating day. Therefore let her celebrate
Evening star., 1901-06-01

PARIS. May Is. 1901
Old-fashioned dowaGers and danes con-
fess themselves scandalized over the new
order of things in Partisan society Never
before has 50 much social freedom been ac-
corded the ''jcune femme. White cotil-
Ions. white dinners and the matinee ball
flourish. All these are species of entertain
girl who has hitherto been all but eimi-
mated from French society. never appear
ing save on very particular occasions. stern
iy guarded by the presence of a chaperon.
The old-fashioned dowagers and matrons
think the new state of affairs most shock
ing, but as some of the very smartest wo-
men in Paris society are radicals of the
>.dicals it is difficult to live strictly up to
principles.
FOrInStanCe yesterday a very conserva-
tive friend received an invitation for her
daughter to attend a matinee white ball
given at one of the best houses on the Ave
nue. EoiS du BoUlO%Le by one of the most
fashionable ladies of Paris. All the jeunesse
doree were invited. and. of course. madame
would rot think of keeping Oli1ie at home.
much as it might disturb her conscience to
permit her To attend. If the ducheSse. who
Is the perS"uifcdtion of chic and absolute
correctness, tuGorses-uay, more, engineers
such function. then her humble follow
erS can do naUght but follow in her foot
steps Therefore. she purchased for Oliyie
a d"nUrt-l""kiHg gown Of white organdy
and lace and accompanied her to the iu-
VtU!-' gathering. where for once madame
although young and goOd-IoOking, was
Evening star., 1901-06-01
Evening FrOcks,

Lace and embroidery are the keynote
of most Of the good frocks for evening
wear. Then, the soft fabrics of chiffon
and net are alike called into service as
foundations for such frocks, and, although
it is not yet here, the revival of the pan
nier is predicted, But in order to persuade
US gently to a recognition of the charms
of this it will at first be made in chiffon
or lace. and then gradually the traditional
brocade and satin will again exploit it's
DoSSibiitieS
Evening star., 1901-06-01
How to Clean oilx BOTTLES.

When glass bottles which have held oil
are needed for some other purpose it is Of
ten difficult to remove all traces of the oil.
This may be done by filling the bottles with
ashes and placing them in cold water,
which should be gradually allowed to boil.
the bottles to remain In 1t till cold. Wash
them In soapsuds and rinse In clear water.
Evening star., 1901-06-01

is the one worn in the scene at Versailles
it is made with an oVerdress of rose moire
shot with silver and embroidered with
knots in silver thread. The lining, which
shows when the train is lifted, is of silver
cloth. The laCe-trimmed sleeves are elbow
length, while the open E-shaped neck is
draped with a lace fichu. The underdress
of white satin is magnificentIy decorated
with lace and jeweled embroidery. 1t is
safe to say that Alexandra herself will not
be more magniicently arrayed at her cOro-
nation.
ESGuisiteiy Dainty.
For pretty sceene in the park at the
Trianon there is a striped white gauze
gown over blue silk, with a headdress of
rose-colored MORE surmounted by a cluster
of white plumes clasped by a diamond
buckle. The chapeau is patterned after
Evening star., 1901-06-01

1t in daintiest attire, and remember that
the best taste for her gown still is viz gin
white and maiden simplicity, even If the
fashions now are allowing much elabora-
tion and colored cOmmenc4m6 mt dresses.
Tucked Materials.
In the way Of materials, diaphancus tex
tiles, by reason of their girishness, are pre-
ferred to the surahs and wash silks of a
Evening star., 1901-06-01

has pointed tablier effect in front in per-
pendicular tucking, the ornamentation
shortening at the back in cuirass style. A
few directoire bodice effects seen for
girls whose slim figures permit the short,
trying waist line. With one of these, which
Evening star., 1901-06-01

forced to join the other matrons who lined
tn wall and Were treated to a bitter fore
taste of staid dowagcrship. The young
popie enjoyed themselves Immensely, with
The married butterflies out of the way.
ON" feature of the So-called matinee white
bail was the appearance of the young men
T. white flannel. and decidedly debonair
some Of the young fellows looked
LiIy's Good Clothes.
Laugtrys new stage costumes are likely
Sto start a serious revival of the Marie An
tonette fashions TAey worthy of no.
fice. / had good fortune to a few of
the gowns before they were packed. 1
should not forget to state that the play is
built about the famous episode of the dia-
moHd necklace and IS by the author Of
''Zaza."
The most magnificent gown of the outfit
Evening star., 1901-06-01

draped. In the last act She appears in a
riding habit, a masterpiece of gorgeous
ness. for it is made of violet velvet over a
pettcoat of gray striped satin. Elbow
sleeves picced out by flamboyant under
sleeves of white come to the wrist Over
the shoulder falls a double collar The
gowns of the other female characters in
the play are said to be almost as magnifi-
Evening star., 1901-06-01
Royalties Move On.

The Riviera season is now closed, and
many of the lesser royalties that have
fingered at Cannes. at Nice and at Men
tone are drifting to Paris.
That flower of gaiiantry, King Leopold
of Belgium has been here with his daugh-
ter the Princess Clementine. l saw them
as they whirled by in their autom obile
brougham on their way to the suite reserv-
Evening star., 1901-06-01

was swathed with a shaped sash Of ivory
gros grain, drawn through a long buckle at
the front and tying in fiat p;m bow at
the back, went drectoire bag of the same
silk, intended to hold all the trifles neces-
sary to the happiness of the graduating
maid.
Sleeves are tucked to fit the arm loosely
Evening star., 1901-06-01

Marie Autoinette, SO We may be prepared
for a similar shape of Marie AntOinette
hats. In the dauphin's room when she
comes to put her little son to sleep the
queen wears striped gown of blue gauze
with vatican plat slightly distended by
hoops. Over her powdered hair, interlaced
with strands of pearl. a silken scarf Is
The Jasper news., 1901-12-12
THE HOTTIE GOLD CURE
An ingenious Treatment by which
Drunkards are Being Cured Daily
la Spite Of Themselves.
No Noxious Doses. No Weakening OF
the Nerves. A Pleasant and
PositivesCure for the Liq-
uor Habit.

1t is now generally known n d under.
it"od that Drunkenness is Il disease and
aot weakness. A body filled with poi.
son, and nerves completely shattered by
periodical or constant use of intoxicat
ing liquors, requires an antidote capable
OF neutralizing and erad!cating this poi-
son, and destroying the craving for ir
toxicants. Sufferers may now cure
themselves at home with ut publicity or
loss Of time from business by this won
derful "HoME GOLD CURE" which has
been Perfected after many years Of close
study and treatment Of inebriates. Tn,
faithful use according to directions of
this wonderful discovery is positively
guaranteed to cure the most obstinate
case, no matter how hard a drinker.
Our records show tho marvellous trans
formation of thousands Of drunkards in
to sober, industrious and upright men.
WIVES CURE YOUR HUSBANps!! CHILD
REN CORE YOUR FATHERs! This remedy
IS IN no sense nostrum but is specific
for this disease only, and is so skillfully
devised aud prepared that il is thorough.
iy soluble and pleasant to thu taste, So
that 1t can be gived in a cup of tea or
coffee without the knowledge Of the per
son taking it. Thousands of Drunkarls
have cured themselves with this price
less remedy, aud as many more have
been cured and mado temperate men by
having the ''CUEE" administered by Low.
ing friends and relatives without their
knowledge In coffee and tea, and beliey
today that they discontinued drinking
OF their own free will. 40 NOT WAIT.
do not be deluded by apparent aud mis-
landing Improvement" Drive
disease at once and irr an t:mo. The
'HoME GOLD CURE" is sold al the .
tremoly low price Of One Dollar, thu
placing within roach of everybody a.
treatment more etfectual than others
costing s25 $50. Full directions accom-
Pany each package. Special advice by
skilled physicians when requested with.
out extra charge. Scot prepaid To an,
part OF the worl'! on receipt Ut One Dol
lar. Address Dept. EpSIS n. GILES 4
COMPANY, 233) and 23s2 Market Street,
PhilidelIhia.
The Jasper news., 1901-12-12
a WORTHY SUCCEsSoR
Something New Under
the Sun.

All doctors have tried to cure cATRRH
10y the use Uf powders, acid gases, inhal-
ers aid drugs IN paste form. Their pnw-
ders dry up the mucuous membranrs
causing them to crack open and bleed.
The powerful acids used in the inhalers
have entirely eaten away the same mem
branes that their makers have aimed to
cure, while pastos and ointmcuts cannot
reach the disense. An old and experien.
ced practitioner who has for many years
maze close study and speciality of the
treatment Of CArAREH, has at last per-
,rct"d trc ltmant which when saithful-
y used, not oply relieves at once but per
nlu"utly cures CATARRH, by removing
lhe cause, stopping the discharges, and
curing all inflanm stion. 1t is the only
medicine known TO science that actually
reaches the aillict d parts. This wonder
,ul remedy IS known as "sNUFFLEs the
GUARANTEE CATARRI CURE" and is sold at
the extremely low price Of One Dollar,
c1ch package containing internal and ex-
ternll medicine sufficient for fer full
m nth's Treatment aud ever, thing nee
"ssary to its perfect use.
"sSCFFEEs" is the only perfect ca
rARRH CUEE ever made and is now rec
'gnized AS the only safe and positive cure
Tor that annoying and disgusting dis
ease. II ur all Inflammation quict ly
and permanently and is alsp wonderfully
puick TO relieve HAY FEVER or COLD in
HEAD.
CArAREH when neglected often leads |
to CoSsCMlTiON- -"sSUFFLFs" will save
you il you usc it at once. 1t is no ordi- |
nary rcm'-dy, but complete treatment
which is positively guaranteed TO cure
cATsRGH in any fern or stage if used nc
cording to the directions which accom- |
pany each package. Don't delay but !
send for it at Uace, and write foil partic- /
ulars as to your condition, and you will |
T.'eive special advice from the discover
sr If this wonderful remedy regarding
your case without cost to you beyond |
the regular price OF "sSUFFLEs" the |
''GCAEANrEED cArARRH CURE"
Sent prepaid the United States or Can
A Ia on receipt of One Dollar. Address /
Dept l EDWIN b. GILES & COM /
PANY, 1890 and 1892 Market Street, !
Philadelphia
The Jasper news., 1901-12-12
The BUILDER.
A,bouebt "a lil. a stone:

A thought Is like stone;
The builder finds it lying loose
Where, by design or not, twas thrown,
And takes II for his use.
He shapes 1t here and chisels thore;l
He pares it thin OF cuts it square
To fit
The place his eye selects for il,
And, as the mason lays the wall
The larger builders thoughts are laid;
II g finds th,m rough and shapes them al
Until, at last, " made
Tho splendid structure men
Behold in awe and then,
Imagining that God or Fate
Has favored him with special might
Or special talents to create
What he has found
Strewn all around
And waiting TO be used Alright,
They call him great
S. Il. KIsRR.
The Jasper news., 1901-12-12

resulted iu what we call "civiliza-
ton"
If we get around TO the point
where all thoughtful minds must
come--that Christianity is matter
of faith, belief, spiritual intuition,
ifyou please, we will not want to cut
out the Moody and Sdnkey hymns
or the picture OF woman clinging
to the cross. These grand old
hymns reach the human soul
which is all that religion is after,
and which is above and beyond
the human understanding.
The Jasper news., 1901-12-12
Was there ever a higher compli.

Was there ever higher compli-
m7nt paid newspapers than the
following words from Prof. Lynch,
Principal of the Mountain Grove
Academy; IF | could not read
word: if | we're blind and deaf, |
would take newspaper, pay for
it aud have it thrown at my gate
80 that when people passed. my
home they would know that there
livess man interested in the welfare
and upbuilding Of his community,
The Jasper news., 1901-12-12

Al. Smell wanted to attend a party.
but was afraid to do SO on tho account of
pains in his stomach, which no feared
would grow worse. He said."r was telling
my troubles 10 "a lady friend, who snid:
Chamberlaiu's collie, cholera and Diarh-
oea Remedy viii put you in condition fer
theparty.' l bought a bottle and take
pleasure in stating that two doses cured
me and enabled me 10 have a good time
at the party" MIR. Smell is resident Of
Summer Hill, N Y. This remedy is for
sale by Webb Bros,