The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-03-02

overwhsimed bz seeing her gait 50 gem
I orally copied
The dipped belt was seized upon eager
/ ~. 10 accentrase the new figure. The
waist line was kept we'll ur in the back
as that IS an Indication Of youthfulness
I the PHYSICAL cultur5sts say. but in front
4 the dip deepened until there was no
waist line at all. only an inward curve
extending downward from the protrud-
ed chest
The corset makers seized upon this
I tendency to get out new figure cor
sets. which help out the similarity
Even the sleeves have helped out the
/ outlines OF the figure OF 1870 by reshap-
ing themselves over the old patterns
with the outward fare above the under
sleeves gathered into the wrist.
The new century girl does not lose the
I lines Of the bend even when she sits
I down, and her back comes no nearer
4 touching the back Of the chair than it
old the back OF the Grecian bend pc
The fashion Flstes Of the early seven
ties al not show figures so remotely Diff
ferenk from our own as those Of the first
years Of the nInsties. when the straight
up and down lines and broad shoulders
EXTENDED BY voilninOus sleeves were in
vogue.
We have about completed a cycle. and
are waiting for rhe next mandate Of
Fashion to begin another.
For Elderly Women.
Low-cut evening waists are not be-
coming to elderly women. and are not
demanded in this country bat a gown
suitable to any afternoon or evening en-
tertainment TO which an olE lady is in
vited. can be made quite as handsome as
If the waist We're low In cut saws a
writer in Harper Bazar. Rich brocades,
Satins. heavy silks. and velvets are all
suitable for gowns Of this description
20 be WORN by older women, while the
trimming may be OF lace. jet. or gold
and silver passementerie- Care must be
taken to have The lines OF all gowns
made as long and unbrOke~ as possible,
excepting when a woman IS unusually
slender, in which case the long lines
should be broken by other trimmings
OF lace or softer material Jacket effects
are always good. and the st-afght-frOnt
style Of trimming has been a verita bic
godsend. for IL entirely hides the waist
hne-that most impossible part OF a
woman's figure as she grows older. Only
IN the back should the figure be at all
defined A hustle is a help II a woman
is large for it is q mistake 10 have the
dress fail in at the back. as BY 50 doing
II accentuateS the size Of the hips and
abdomen Clever dressmakers recog-
nizA this. and never send cut a skirt
without small pad at the back If
street gown is desired. one of the lighter
weights Of cloth should be employed. and
il intended tor winter wear. the coat can
be made quite warm enough by the linz
ing. but it is far better TO have a leng
coat. and then wear the same skirts that
might be worn in the house at other
times. as has been said There are many
lightweight cloths from which to
choose
The DecolIete Bodice.
The distinctive evening gown is be-
ing worn more and more In the United
States. even at extremely small social
affairs Until within a few years the
decollete bodice was reserved in this
country for formal occasions. but now
the European custom is followed gem
orally.
1T Is well. therefore. for every young
woman TO study her type and decide in
what form the decolletage should be cut.
One often hears it said. 4 can't wear
evening dress It is not becoming to
me" In point Of fact, no other mode is
SO becoming when the proper way to cut
it has been ascertained-
The woman with an oval face and
pointed chin should have the neck OF her
evening gown cut in q decided round"
The woman with a round face should
wear q T-shaped bodice, while she whose /
face is purely. classically oval, may
adopt any style Of dec0lletage with !
says a writer in the New York Tribune. /
The sleevelet. or sleeve band. or what /
ever the fashion Of the moment may die /
tate In that direction, should be allowed I
10 fall a. far below the shoulder as Is /
permissible, as the curve from throat I
to arm, when good, is one of The loveliest I
Of the feminine figure.
The day Of the tpincushi01" throat is 1
past. ana now the artists ideal has a I
decided suggestion OF the bony struc-
ture. Consequently. the only ornament i
necessary. as a rule. is a sirgle string OF /
pearls or stones TO match the gown.
When the neck is actually 50 thin as to 4
be full Of unloveiy hOllows. it is better +
to resort to dog collar for conceal
ment. A necklace of five or SIX rows
Of the stones selected with an additional
row l0Oped three or four times in front.
is the form best adapted 20 this \
pretty idea now in vogue IS the neck
lace Of irregular turquoises. the imper-
feet pearls known as barOque. Of gar
nets or any other stone that is becoming
In color. "A young woman who always
wears delicate blue in the evening. be-
cause she knows that It makes her look
as dainty as Dresden figure, has
adopted the turquoise, and v ears a dog
collar OF turquoise beads" fastened BY
1arrettes of diamonds.
There are many. however, who have
no jewels. Fortunately. fe sfiOn offers
hem as alternative in the TITLE or chif-
Ton collar. with a plentiful spriukling Of
my artificial flowers, that should be re-
0eated in the decoration Of the gown.
al good deal may lie done to fill the
follows BY nightly massage with cocoa
1utter. but their presence. as has been
shown should not prove an impeachment
% wearing gowns OF formal cut
Another point to be taken INTO c0nsid-
ration is that the length Of the train
mould bear some relation to the height
VI the wearer. "a short woman cannot
wear AS long a train as a tail one with
rain OF suitable length gives apparent
ieight TO 8 petite figure, but when eXag-
.erated only emphasizes the Shortness OF
rarure. Neither should there be elab-
rate trimming on the skirt Of a short
roman- The lines OF drape-y should be