The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1901-08-11
THE SUMNER FASHIONS
,rTrRN or THE HDRESs IMPROy-
Err" OTHERWISE THE BUsTLE.
vague Of Nuns Yelling and Crepe de
Chine-A Dissertation on the
Dressing of ii


d. costumes worn at fashionable summer
resort
SHk-anished mohair has formed a very
1.vorite material for summer travelling cos
,nmes. and Tor the fall, in black. blue. gray
and brown. will be brought out a very
handsome mercerized mohair Sicilienne of
such l~ustrous quality as to surpass bril-
uantlna and very closely resemble some Of
IT, finest silks.
TnIined otamine or silk-warp eolinne
worn over a silk petticoat of matching color
forms stylish and comfortable costume
for the summer Blue. black and beige are
popular colors. and Persian embrolderies
compose the most stylish and elegant dec
%orations.
THE FIolentine and wrinkled mousque-
J taire are leading sleeve models among
those which are not made elbow length.
The FIRST is Ike the featheTed sleeve Of an
Indian chief, with narrow gathered frilis OF
ace-edged fabric, matching the gown, put
or ia two rows Of scallops tapping each
Other, following the outside seam of the
sleeve from shoulder TO wrist and falling
over tie hand in soft undulations.
Lace threaded with black velvet ribbon
this fashion has not in the least abated. 1t
cannot he said 10 be more fashionable than
ever. because long ago the force of this
popular and very effective and becoming
mode could no further go.
Large white crinoIine or NeapoIitan straw
hats trimmed with a single very broad fluff
T. white ostrich plume. a choux Of White
tuIIe and q large paste buckle are being
much worn. but black, wholly black, pic
ture hats are also the height Of the latest
French fashion. proving very compliment
tary 10 most wearers and at the same time
being amiably disposed TO costumes of any
and every color.
\ simply tucked gown of black point
oesprit. trimmed with pleated skirt dounc-
a. and bodice and sleeve frills of the net
edged with narrow lace, looked remarkably
chic and pretty on Its tall, slender blonde
Wearer. \ black shepherdess hat, also
trimmed with point d'esprit pleatings and
drapcrles. and a pair of black Suede kid
gloves. were added to the details of this
s0mbre hut really elegant costume, which
was made up over black taffeta silk.
The new French poplins and mohairs to
b Sd f~ashiOnably worn this fall are scarce
- "a be distinguished from the soft ribbed
bengalnes and other corded silks of their
nature While retaining the standard merit
OF durability, the manufacturers have sue
Ceced in lmparting q very beautiful mercer
tied finish TO the surface, and as the fab
rcs are rendered much more soft and
plant, the requirements OF prevailing
STYLES IN making them up are wholly met.
SILK canvas lined with color forms a very
attractive gown. and matrOns even OF quiet
tastes have this season INDUCED IN COS
tunes OF this description. If choice inclines
10 nidck, tnere Will be gowns OF canvas
lined with lime-green, certain shades of
blue. amethyst. and even sonora the
beautiful shade OF red that is less vivid
tnan CHERRY color, but more brilliant than
gerantum or the deep Danish dyes. The
seml-tranSDarent weave OF the canvas
greatly tones any bright color placed be-
neath Il, and the result IS q soft simmer
ms Opaline glow that is very beautiful.
Persian embroideries may form the trim
ming. or jet if preferred. but always let of
the finest UIqIfV- With black Lace in adIf-
ton, on the bodice and sleeves.
The return OF the dress 'improver'' IS no
longer prOphesied. but it's advent is an
nounced among both French and English
fashions. The most fashionable mOdistes
are putting small, narrow pads of cushions
at the back OF dress skirts. these doing
away with the look OF hatness so consDicu-
Gus IN many figures. In accepting the in
nOvatiOn il is 10 be hoped that il will re-
main the diminutive size il now is, and not
become the hideOuS excrescence that in its
former days gave such scope for the exer-
else or humorous. sarcastic or satirical
veins. III is better than crinOline. say
those who were aware a change OF stvIe
was Imminent. Panieres are quite likely
70 appear in the train OF the small tOUrn-
ure. and they will be we'll received by the
large class OF tall, slim women of to-day.
Many OF the overelaborate styles of deco
ration used on summer gowns are not at
all admirable. The great amount of time
and work expended upon himsy rows of
gathered and lace-edged ruches and frills
seems wholly out or proportion to the re-
suit produced. Dresses of this description
are, however. universally the mode. they
are expensive as well, the yards of chiffon.
null and other d~iaphanous material used
not being calculated to withstand even
ordinary wear and tear. More sensible,
anu quite as pretty even for dressy uses,
are the gowns OF French organdie. Unity,
batste and sheer linen lawn, finished SIMPLY
Will tucks and rows of insertion or deli
cate embroidery: even the inexpensive dot
ted Swiss muslin or India null gowns OF
the summer. with parasols and hats often
worn en- suite, are deemed suitable for all
put the most formal occasions.
A very pretty fancy waist of rose-pink
taueta silk. recently worn. was trimmed
with white chiffon and silk cord applique
embroidery. The silk was mounted on q
closely fitted lining which was faced. front
and back, 10 form a rounded dip-yoke. To
this was gathered the ~taffeta, shaped at
tne top, 10 conform to the curves of the
i y0ke-edge. The front portion blOused grace
i 1uAy above the narrow belt. and an en-
broldered collar finished the neck. The
4 white chiffon undersleeve was in small
bishop shape, gathered into a wristband
covered with the applique work. The one
4 piece oversleeve. fitted by an outside seam
cart. extended from the shaped lower edge
10 the elbow. The waist. closed down the
4 center OF the back. and the joining of the
luI lower portions of it 10 the dip-yoke,
4 was covered with a pleated ruche of chif-
IL edsed with very narrow black velvet
Nuns yelling and crepe de Chine have
carried on very many of the hOnors of the
fashionable season, and on account of the
We range of Understanding from the
&aAAAZ "a 49, ~ 49,
PINK, cream color. old rose. turquoise blue,
etc, 20 deep blue, amethyst. stem and
Itseua green, sage gray, etc.-gOwns of
tneSe two eXquisitely fine, sheer materials
nave been made that were appropriate alike
Tor morning. afternoon and full-dTess even
As wear. y stylish travelling gown for a
midsummer bride was formed of pale fawn-
colored wolfe with scrOIl-like strappings of
Dale brown silk on the edge of the princesse
| ttefQreSs. which was worn above a gOred
skirt of matching silk. An embroidered
sailor collar of fawn-cOlOred bdtiste and a
vest To- correspond were details of the bod
Ice portion, the belt being draped with a
s0ft band OF fawn-cOloreG silk. y gown OF
tucked olack crepe de Chine with insertions
and eaeiugs Of black guipure lace looked
very attractive on a visitor at a seaside
resort. worn with a Tuscan straw hat
trimmed with shaded pink orchids and a
PACK Euipure lace scarf most artistlcaly
craDed. The lace-frilled elbOw-sleeves were
met by long black silk mitts. and a black
lace uaras0l lined with pale pink zephyr
SIX completed a most attractive whole.
Dressing children in pure white IS more
fashionable this year than 1t has been for
1 some seasons past. 1t is a charming fancy,
an white Is certainly much better than
an pale tint that has TO be constantly
Numbered. 4 great many pique frocks are
Seen-the pique OF the softer weaves-not
- harsh as II used 10 be. These are daintily
1n-shed with big fancy collars over 4 tiny
Lion Jacket. or else with blouse waists De-