The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1901-09-29

PARIS, Sept. 1.-THE popularity of the
automobile has had a direct influence on
the kind and quality of fall and winter
coats.
It's this way" said one modiste
whom approached. Fashionable
women originally wanted something to
slip easily over the gown-Something to
protect it from dust and weather.
Naturally, to provide that we gave them
long coat. Then, too, they asked for
comfort. There must be no t1ghtness
anywhere in the garment to Interfere
with the management of the brakes of
the machines. Consequently the warp
was made loose So admirable did the
fashionable ladies find these automobile
coats that they started to wear them in
the street. Couturieres took up the sug-
gestion and began to make street,
theater, race, driving and yachting coats
ali upon the same plan. Now for the
fall and winter of 1902 you will find the
smartest shops making all their coats
after that style. Very few tight fitting
coats and very few short ones are to be
seen among the latest models
i 1 found that she was right Elabo-
rately elegant are most of the new
kWraps. The handsomest are the long
ones. coming to the edge of the skirt
The three-quarter coats, with portentous
Hare, are trying TO most figures. A beau
ttul creation was the long military coat
of cadet blue proudly exhibited in
fashionable show room. The skirt had
that exquisite bell-like flare which is inn
parted only by the hand of the true
artist. A fitted flounce was outlined by a
narrow black silk cOrding, repeated on all
the seams. The deep triple collar left
the breast of the coat uncovered to show
a stitched and corded yoke of cloth, upon
which four large gold buttons cleaned.
that looked almost a cape-deep collars
are features of the majority of the sim
pier coatS-showed novel development
OF the sleeves These were straight and
comparatively tight until they reached
the lower half of the forearm, where
they We're cut open to show a full I'M
dersleeve of white muslin. A bow of the
white muslin finished with plating lined
with narrow black velvet ribbon, was
knotted at the throat.
An odd finish was the application of
two severely plain hounces to the skirt
of long coat cut in military fashion
and strapped with stitched bands of
black satin. The coat had a yellowish
tinge, about that of common wrapping
paper This is new tint whose tech
nical designation I know not This gar
ment had the lingerie sleeve, in it's case,
made of lace.
Stitching is an important part of the
work upon tailored coats. Some are
stitched in fanciful designs to the depths
of a foot or more. Stitched strappings
of silk or satin are also prominent. In
Terlaced squares, ovals and circles are
designs most frequently carried out IN
this style of trimming.
A quaint use of velvet ribbons and of
silk cords is followed on some of the
more ornate cloaks intended for wear
to and from fashionable functions. y
coat of military blue CLOTH with the
front buttoned at one side was fairly
covered with scroll-like applications Of
very narrow velvet, the designs framed
by a handsome white silk cording The
sleeve of this coat terminated in a
short, straight cuff, from which fell a
dounce Of cream-colored lace.
The most desirable coats are double
breasted, the upper part of the fronts
being studded with heavy metal but
tons. The skirts of wraps all are cut
circular, and they flute artistically
Blue, gray, tan, ecru, fawn, buff cafe
au lait, with shades of gobelin blue
argent, pearl, gray and dove are the
eolors most frequently selected for coat
fabrics. For theater wraps and for
those reserved for full dress occasions
silk is frequently substituted for cloth
Three-fourths of the fall cloaks which
are made of this material are generally
decorated with vertical tucks on ne
sleeves and on the upper part of the
wrap A plisse lounce of chiffon COM
monty finishes off the lower part of the
garment Often the rounded, deep col
lar is founced with plated chiffon. or
very elaborate fichu of the same dec
crates the neck.
Gowns are, with few exceptions. mod
eled on the princess style. Appliques
cover robes, which are fitted to perfec-
ton. These trimmings are varied with
smart strappings or tiny stitched tucks.
Broadcloth or smooth-faced cloths are
given the roughened appearance de-
manded by themodes of the hour by
the use of many incrustations. Even
the rough cloths, serges, etc, are COW
cred with scrolls of silk or satin. The
loose wraps now donned with these gar
ments make it possible to display their
charms to advantage even in the street
A novel use of fancifuI applications
was made on a gown of heavy silk by
bands of stitched silk passed through cir