Daily Kennebec journal., 1901-09-07

which are called seracs. Seracs Otter
tumble. but seldom in the early part OF q
day. IL is generally easy to perceive
whether a given serac is ready TO fan o
whether IL is firm. A well-chosen rout,
avoids the track where seracs may be eN
pected TO fail. The crests of some narrow
snow ridges are fringed with an over
hanging wave OF ice. called cornce
cornices grow slowly by accretion OF
snow flakes. when they become too big
they Ia. and woe to the man on whom
they iali. wise man does not pass under
Il great cornice
Failing snow is called a snow-ava-
ianche. Snow avalanchcs only fall i'll
easliy recognizable tracts. Most OF them
fall in springtime before climbing begins.
ihe summer avalanches fall after fresh
snow has accumulated during bad wea-
ther Avalanches. however seldom
Iall on cliinoers: Usually an accident is
caused by the climbing party starting the
avalanche. Prof. Tyndali nearly losI his
NE in this way. He was crossing a deep
Slope of snow in the afternoon after ii
nao been softened by hot sunshine. IL
cracked across. and the whole surface
"a foot or so deep-siid down. carrying
MS iarty with it BY good luck they es-
capped from the rear of the avalanche be-
lore reaching the edge Of the cliff. over
"h'ch II fell. y prudent climber avoids
crossing rotten snow slopes that are
steep.
Most accidents. however. are caused by.
laiIs from rocks. ice or snow. Careful
DO not undertake ascents that are beyond
tne skill OF their party. II the guides are
good enough Tor tue particular climb. two
Two OF them will render any tolerable
climber safe By proper use of the rope.
Mh,s hns 'hey ,, ARE moving he keeps ri stu.
painted. and draw in the rope as he ad-
tances. II he slips they easily hold him.
~ an amateur is as good as guide M
may be counted instead of one; put such
amateurs are few and are men of long
experience. who have learnt their craft
by working with guides.
A fall from ice is less easy to check.
The dangerous "iaces are steep slopes of
real ice-hard blue ice like the surface OF
d frozen pond set up at an angle. Steps
Guy IN such material are themselves
very long, and takes. perhaps. hours TO
ascend. the time comes when cariess-
ness III footing OF balance may lead TO "A
SIP. u The man ahead is Immediately
ahuNe tne one who slips he can hold him
easily; hut If the ascent. as is probable.
IL heins made diasonally, slip is more
d!ffcult TO arrest ami the wno,e party viii
be In great peril.
From slopes or ridges cf snow men are
not likely to fall unless they are over
thrown by u sudden blast Of storm. as has
happened once or twice Even then, 4
iai may te arrested by using an AK as a
Hw hard frozen The chief danger on
snAw Is that you may fall through Il into
a hi$tden crevasse. Ii sometimes happens.
efterJi fresh fall of snow. that u crevasse
Is completely covered up. so that not a
sign on II can be perceived even by the
mcst experienced eye, Against this peril
however,. there is one certain protection
u Is tue fore. rightly used. III the, mem
bers az party are Joined tas above the
anow line they always should heJ by.
good rppe firmly knotted round the waist
OF each. with distance cf 10 to Is feet
he;weer man and his neighbor. and I!
the rOve be not allowed to dansie on the
sroCp4. u will be 4 matter OF indifference
Miether one falls into u crevasse or no.
Be!OrcA ne is more than waist deep tn
ropes VIII hold h n and he WIZ hc ~ Z
Ia scyhmtie gu. without ui.iicul.y Z d...n
There Is kind Of danger which has not
beeY mentioned. ID II u aanse- from ba !
weafher. In bad weather easy PAGES v I. .
COME dihicult and the way may lie har "
to find. Rad weather seldom comes on !
WITHOUT warning. Wise people take the I
wa tAing: the foolish sort so ahead and
Iule the risk. A strong party may laugh :
At {weatner that will Kill! weak psrn I
good local guide win not lose his way. !
avtn In me worst storm on peak he l
snbws. But the question Of the travellers