New-York tribune., 1901-10-27

points over the shoulders reached almost TO the
elbows and 1t held in front where ii was
crossed by two large iligree buttons The tiny
yoke and choker. which appeared not 10 be at
tached to the gown. of zibeline. and puffs OF
this material appeared under the loose. flowing
sleeves. Cut perfectly straight, the garment
reached 20 within about eight inches of the bot
tom of the skirt, where 1t fared out like dress
skirt There trimming about the bottom and
on the sleeves made Of bands OF panne edged with
gold braid and held where they crossed with small
gold buttons.
gown too beautiful to be ignored. and yet OBJ
viously inappropriate for the wet afternoon, was
made OF a heavy guipure lace and trimmed
with ermIne. The ermine made shaped founce
the skirt and deep cuffs into which the sleeves
gathered. The gown had jacket fronts faced
with ermine overlaid with lace. and there was
fur facing the high turnover collar. The only
touch of color the sash of reseda green vel
vet. which color repeated in the hat trimmed
with white feathers ana lace scarf that knotted
in the back with long ends hanging down far be-
The laee scarf described in the hat above was
raer @ & more c0nspic4ogs than most OF those now
Immense popularity. 1t is unnecessary to say that
down behind. although this sometimes took the
or again, Of a lace scarf some three cornered hats
OF fur were immensely chic noticeably one Of lib
buckle and worn with gray gown trimmed with
lace and fur.
Use OF LACE AND FUR
Lace and fur remind one OF another prominent
feature Of the Grand Prix gown namely, the com
binaton OF these two materials. The gown just
referred TO- of gray cloth. had a trimming about
the bottom made Of applications Of Irish point,
nected together by a scroll-ork of narrow bands
OF zibeline. the shaped founce on which this was
mounted being headed and finished by the fur.
The coat had deep collar of the Louis XIII
Beautiful glossy black Breitschwantz was used
as a trimming on an Empire coat OF black cloth:
about the bottom, cut, its upper edge. into long
chenille and Jet in a large, SNOWY flower pattern
and there were jet buttons on the garment:
Applications of cretonne flowers a trimming
for elaborate silk and wool gowns sounded odd
and quite strange a melange is shown in a style
OF trimming that promises TO be equally popular
This is embroidery OF wool. done on thin
tue. A trimming on gray velvet gown is made
by an lara, araoesgge % embroidery Of white wool and
evidently must be made very strong now to stand
| common foundation for applications of fine panne
| figures This wool trimming is also combined with
A smart material for street gown is one Of
| deep green and black plaid with hairy surface.
| The skirt is cut short; and is made in the back
very broad at the waist. The bodice bouses over a
high black belt which is fastened in the back with
double breasted, and the revers are unfaced, with
faced easfpRf Wh q Ne ct h e touch o
color that gives cachet 10 the gown. This gown
over linen collar. A good many well dressed French
autumn street suits with a white tulle tie under
/ the chin.
! Reference has several times been made 10 the
fashion Of fastening belts IN the back 1t Is grow
/ ing 10 be more and more feature of the autumn
gowns is also. perhaps. a lacing inserted into
the backs OF Jackets and tied the waist line One
! astonishing princess gown. for which well known
1 dressmaker is responsible. apparently fastens in
/ the back underneath lacing of black velvet rib
bon which extends from the choker to the hem OF
! the dragging skirt This gown in reality fastene
the side in front. but it is designed give the
! appearance of closing with the lacing.
A novelty that ought not he forgotten is the
fashion OF lining fur capes with mousselne sole.
] n The arf 60 ~
course. lovely when the gown is thrown open. and
on some Of the capes cut longer in the back than
! in front and with big loose sleeves. the lining IS
visible at all times This lining is sometimes con-
tinued in frill OF the thin stuff which the
/ garment. While upon the subject Of fur capes
mention might he made Of shape decidedly
odd. II is tight to the shoulders and then
flares out in full ruf'ie OF the small garments In
! fur the stole neckpece is perhaps the most popu-
/ lar. Mufs show nothing I'm shape. but n great
deal OF trimming often mixture Of tue. che
mile and ostrich feathers. Ostrich feather muffs
/ 10 accompany the boas which so popular
also frequently seen.