Evening star., 1901-06-01
STYLES IN MEMS DRESS
NEW MODES BASED on COMFORT
AND COMMON SENSE.
Military Jackets and Pleated Shirts
spats Not for Ordinary Day
wear-New Cravats.
From the Haberdasher.

historical data which would lead me to be-
lieve that they ever were. due to the adop-
tion OF any particular forms or colors by the
majority. II is not that which is most seen
that is most fashionable. The well-dressed
men strive to keep away from the forms
which have been literally adopted by the
majority. In keeping away from the or
binary the well-dressed man seeks the un-
ordinary and his patronage brings the pa
tronage OF the followers and soon we hay
something new. 1t is the smart exclusiy
dresser who creates the demand for ne
goods. He seeks departures from star
ards that have become disgustingly CO
mon. No matter how good or how c,
Portable or becoming a fashion may be-
sure to be altered once it becomes gen,
Ii Is this slow evolution and developme-
popularity that has brought the wing
In for another run. Men have become rne.
of fold collars. and the result is the a,iop-
tion of something different In order to pre-
serve the line between the exclusive and
the common. Whenever anything decided
ly marked becomes fashionable II con-.
tinues to grow In popularity until II reaches
such universal adoption that Il ceases to be
distinctive. One Of the most recent ex-
ampies OF this we find in the military sack.
The fiare-skirted short Jackets and the very
full seated trousers were great favorites
with the college set last summer and they
VIII be very popular with all kinds Of
l
Will be able to find them in the year 1872.
They will be run out long before that SIM
ply because they are now little too popu-
lar. and that is the death sting to ex-
clusiveness.
The New Derby.
One gets the general impression this
season that hats are to be very different
from old models. The new derby has a
very high. well-rounded crown and a me-
dif1ro roll hr-f,,
medium bellied crown with moderately
curled brims. The straws are of the small
low crown straight narrow brim sailor. or
the new panama alpine form. Ribbons are
In solid colors and the fiamboyant, ridicu-
lous pugree' has been retired. Color in
ones headwear is no longer in good FORM
and We must admit that we could never
quite accept II as having been in good taste
There is no doubt that the Individual
walstcoat will be one of the most promi-
nent features in formal and seml-formal
dress this coming summer. With the even
ing dress suit and the fast-disappearing
evening jacket man may wear the fine
white linen duck affairs. For evening dress
these should be cut double-hreasted and
have mother-of-pearl buttons. With the
evening jacket they may be either single
or double-breasted and have gilt buttons
The frock coat goes well with a double
breasted waistcoat of either white linen
duck or khaki. The former as well as the
latter has pearl buttons. With the cuta-
way these waistcoats are also proper. Tho
best waistcoats for wear with day Jackets
are the double-breasted duck or khaki and
the single-breasted white duck with black
stripes. The latter is new, and II IL does
not become too popular will be one of the
distinctively new garments of the season.
/ think the odd waistcoats will be very
handy, as they will fit well with the two
piece suits whenever II is desired to dress
a little more formally than is possible IL
no waistcoat be worn. The two-piece suit
with the neglige shirt will. OF course. be
the strictly informal dress for the mid
summer and for the warm days in autumn.
Sharp Contrasts Popular.
Sharp contrasts are now quite popular,
and one finds the black once-over the ia
vorite with the white waistcoat, and the
white and suede once-overs seem to be
worn principally with waistcoats made OF
the same material the coat. These COM
binations go very well with the frock and
the new cutaway. OF course, the silk hat
goes with all skirted coats. This seasons
hat has felt band that is between pa
and inches deep.
In formal day dress. notwithstanding
newspaper fashion reports to the con-
trary, standing colors are worn. Favor
is divided between the moderate poke and
the wing collars. The latter are very
smart. There are now three styles Of wing
collars in vogue One style has the per-
feet triangle wing, another the narrow
wing with the button line on a slight an
gle, and the third has small dropping
wings with slightly rounded tips. The
broad stitching does not go well on wing
collars and we would not recommend Ii.
In tying the once-over II is best to take
a regular broad end Culross and adjust fe
that the upper apron, after being laid
over the under one. is brought straight
down. The pin, which is small and jeweled.
is put in about the center. The apron 10
not spread out. but is left to hang natural-
ly. This exposes little Of the shirt bosom
either side.
Black is very popular for these cravats.
The best are the black and black dull finish
silk cravatings. Black satin is only used
for imperials and is tied in the four-in-hand
knot. The black Culross tied in the man
described is also worn with the fold
collar and with the Jacket.
Spats worn with the frock coat and
cutaway when the wearer is going to the
races or driving. They are hardly proper
for ordinary street wear.
Military Jackets.
Military Jackets not entirely out OF
fashion With the younger set they are
still the favorites. These new sacks have
the side seams well curved, and the Jackets
are cut quite short, with plenty of fare
to the skirts. The shoulders are square
and the cutaway in front Is on sharp, al
most straight angles. These jackets are
worn with trousers to match and with or
without a waistcoat, or with waistcoat OF
the same material or Of a washable fabric.
The fad is to button only the lower but
ton of the jacket and to turn the trousers
up at the bottom
with these suits one may wear low-cut
calf Shoes with fancy half hose. plain or
pleated neglige shirts. fold collars. and
either a tie, four-in-hand or once-over.
The new neglige and business suits will
be in grays and blues well in blacks.
The browns and the greens will be the
oddities. The patterns reveal almost in
visible herringbone striped effects or large
hairline plads. The combinations Of colors
are quiet. Until warm weather arrives the
heavy cape tan glove. worn unbuttoned and
with the wrist slightly turned over. will be
worn with business suits. For formal
dress the suede gloves in the quiet gray
tones will be the most correct.
The summer Man.
The summer man of the year 1901 will be
garbed in raiment of subdued hue and COM
fort-giving style. The pleated negiiss
shirts will be in neat stripes. which will
reveal a great deal of the ground color The