The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1901-03-03
PARIS FASHION LETTER
WINTER AND Is STILL
WORN
VAST CHOICE IN MILLINERY
Spring styles First Blossom on the
Riviera - Skirt Form IN
changed, but sleeves
Are Larger.
Special Correspondence OF the Globe

Special Correspondence OF the Globe
tARIS, Feb. 1S-Spring toilettes like
sprlng flowers, blossom lavishIv in thar
international vantage ground. the Riy-
1era' while IN more Northern climes the
snow and winter blasts still hold Us
Tg1d in their icy embrace
Il IS in the Riviera where nature and
fashion alike unfold the realizarions Of
ther choicest dreams. To all appear-
@nces the imaginations Of the leading
modlstes and dressnakers have been
even more prolific than heretofore. Tor
Ike NUMBER OF exquisite creations is L.
slon and the choice OF superiority would
De olIhcuIt indeed, for each embodies the
most refined taste and the very highest
art Among the many gowns of various
cclors, materials and designs the eve in
voluntarily seeks such models as are
Aheiy 10 be accepted later on as criterions
BY the rest OF the fashionable world
There IS, above all the tailoE-made
costume, which has expanded its reign
INTO the realm Of evening wear as well,
which attracts the attention. 1t has
assumed dainty innovations for warm
weather street wear in the shape Of
hnen and pique gowns. Many two
piece costumes, consisting of skirt and
bolero or short jacket. are seen, made
strictly tailor-made. though much elab-
Grated by stitchings and self-trinl-
rZings
New weaves of linen and cotton in
ali the latest shades add 10 the novelty
OF these summer tailor-mades OF
course. they require the independent
biouSe or shirt waist as a complement,
which also show some new designs.
There IS, for instance, the sailor blouse
modified, Of course, as TO ample 1T; but
characterized always by the sailor co..
lar and knotted cravat. The sailor coli
lar, By the way, is a noticeable feature
CT many of the short jackets also, and
bids fair 10 gain universal popularity
Tor It's stylish and youthful aspect.
The sleeves are DECIDEDLY more gen
erous in size than last year, and are
prone to elaboration. but skirts are as
tight as ever above the knees, with
long and faring hem below. In cut
they are simple enough, but the garni-
lures are as rich as can be procured.
The skirt OF the past few seasons has
50 endeared itself 10 its wearers that
they have found nothing TO surpass its
grace and elegance. and though at in
tervals somebody hints at draperies and
other changes, the dressmakers as yet
have found no encOura cement to depart
from the favOrite lines.
As regards fabrics il is safe to say that
everything or anything can be worn
and the large shops offer q multitude
OF fabrics which appeal 10 any taste
for dressy wear the soft summer silks
and wOolens are most appropriate and
crepe de chine tCue and chiffon viii
add another season to their long list Of
successes.
Crepe de chine comes not only IN all
plain colorings, but in its latest devel-
Cpments shows most charming floral
designs printed in natural tints on
harm onizing ground. II is of this ma
terial that one OF Doeuillet's most ad-
n2ired models IS made. The crepe de
chine has delicate biscuit colored
ground upon which are printed mas
Turtilus in glowing yelI0ws with green
foliage. The colcr harmony reaches /
perfection by the application Of rich 1
biscuit-colored Bruges guipure. There
IS seven-gOred underskirt of biscuit
cclored taffeta, shaped very closely
over the hips and minus any fullness
whatever AZ the back The cores slope
decidedly below the knees and the
fare Is accentuated By z deeo fiounce
OF chiffon Of the same shade. The
orop-skirt IS OF printed crepe DE chine
and cut quite full. al the extra width
being SHRED around the hips into sew
eTal rows OF small puffs closely adj
jUsted 10 the tight taffeta underskirt.
Below the puffs the fullness falls loose
y and finishes with a fitted and appliqued
fare Of Bruges guipure Of a shade
matching the ground tone Of the crepe
&c chine.
The bodice has a tight lining of bis
cEit-colored' tafeta and closes at the
hack There is yoke with collar and
attached pointed epaulettes Of Bruges
guipure, and over this is arranged the
novel draperE Of the Powered crepe de
chine which is gathered over the lace
yoke into diagonal rows Of puffs like
the top OF the skirt The fulIness thus
formed shapes the fun blouse which
: caught under the skirt az the waist
line Shoulder straps of folded biscuit
colored panne apparently hold the SIX
oIapery in place: The sleeve Is com
Portable in width. though close fitting.
and finishes at wrist with a q deep
pointed cuff OF aDpliqued guipure The
shoulder is gracefully garnished by the
overhanging extension of lace yoke.
The possibilities OF headgear as q
completion OF the dainty summer. gown
are vast, as IS the choice of materials
and shapes Hats. however, show little
difference from vast years millinery.
There IS the same fatness and the
same wealth Of floral garniture The
gold glitter alone is a novelty. and
though II is artistically subdued. II Is |
still evident in almost every millinery
creation for spring ana summer wear
and the ostrich plumes, so strangely I
conspicuous by their absence last year, /
have reappeared They are never posed |
high. however. but generally form q !
graceful drapery over the turned-up |
briH a few demi-saison touues have
the wire frame draped with gold gauze, |
and that IN turn is completely yelled
with black tulle. The effect is stylish |
and genteel, and a bunch Of rich link
roses generally adds to the color scheme.
Felix Fournery.