Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1901-03-31

than an ordinary dance, where people
are dressed in the fashions of the day.
Ut all the favorite costumes for fancy
dress. the shepherdess reigns supreme.
It Is so universally becoming, and
TIM possesses the rare advantage thai
It can be made up either in a very ex-
pensdve materials or in calico and
cambria, costing most trifiing sum.
However, 1t must be admitted, as rule,
the expensive representations OF the
character are more In demand. In
Figure 2 is an illustration OF gown
designed by Doucet, which is marked
example of the most expensive kind OF
shepherdess costume of the Louis XIV.
period. The skirt of sky-blue satin, a
most exquisite shade and of the richest
quality, reaches only to the ankles.
1t is cut with a great deal OF flare and
made to stand out, either by being
lined or forced with Stiffen1ng or worn
over a crinoline. Around the lower
part Of the skirt the material is caught
I'D in soft folds, and between the folds
are garlands of pink roses which ex-
tend around the entire skirt. The up
per part of the skirt is hidden under
Topped paniers of either blue or pink
satin trimmed with wide silver lace.
Quite in keeping with the present craze
for straight front effects is the pointed
waist, with it's exaggerated curve from
the sides to the front. There is full
front of finely pleated chiffon, covered
with a net work of silver cord studded
with pearls On the shoulders are
sprays of pink roses that outline the
sides of the waist, finishing at the point
in front. The elbow sleeves are finish
ed with band of pink roses above the
ruffle of the silver lace. The hair Is
dressed high with puffs and pompa-
dour, is powdered, and directly on top
is a bunch OF pink roses. Blue satin
shoes complete the costume.
Figure 8 illustrates another Louis
XIV. shepherdess costume, which, it
will be seen, is in many respects rad
tcally different from the one described
above. This gown was worn by Mile
Maille in LA Guerre des Dentelles, "
and was most becoming and effective
Unlike the former costume, the skirt is
long, reaching quite to the ground,
and entirely concealing the feet: 1t
is exaggeratedly wide, being held out
by crinoline. There are garlands trim
ming the foot of the skirt, but made
OF ruches instead of roses, and caught
up at regular intervals with velvet or
satin bows of pale blue. The skirt it.
self is of rose-pink satin. The over
skirt, Topped in panier effect on the
sides. is of Powered brocade pink, blue
and pale green, and is trammed with
full ruffies Of pink mousseline de sole
finished with narrow ruchings and put
on so full that they fall in jabot effect.
The same pointed waist is much closer
together In the front, showing a point
ed front of lpleated chiffon over which
there is succession of small velvet
bows that apparently hold the sides to-
gether Elbow sleeves, finished with a
wide ruffle Of brocade and inside ruff1e
of chiffon, fit close to the arm above
the elbow Folds of lace over the
shoulders make the waist more becom-
ing, while above the. square cut in
front are soft folds of the pink chiffon.
Powdered hair, with long curl and
spray Of pink roses in the hair, COM
plete this most attractive and dainty
costume.
Fancy headdresses are often the
fashion for dinners or dances where
the entire costume need not be fancy
dress, and are often most picturesque
and becoming. Sometimes the order is
that the hair must be arranged in &C
cordance with the fashion of some
past century; again, the rule Is that
a picturesque hat or headdress must be
designed. Figure gives an illustra-
ton of a hat for a Diner de Tetes,"
as the entertainment is called, and
shows design of Lutherie in a cha
peau frivolet, in the three-corner shape
made If black and white t1llle most ar
tistically combined, and trimmed with
flowers and aigrettes.