The Honolulu republican. [volume] (Honolulu, T.H.) 1900-1902, 1901-04-07
Fashions and Society,

/ HYoT long since, at Q tea drinking
IN In a distant city. q number o
III specialized and supposedly learn
ed women discourxed heroicAli,
/ On the faGs Of the college girl Mani
questions were brought up and diher
ent situations discussed. but some o.
the ideas radiating from the stern
petticoated professors were startling
In the extreme They one and all de
cIared that the athletic type was fasi
disappearing and her more sentimenta
! sister is getting a strong foothold OF
| the affections Of the average colleEs
girl. Gymnasium work was cut. 50
said a professor of physical culture
| sadly. and the effect Of high collars
tight stays and eccentric shoes were
rapidly Transforming the muscular
young goddesses into the sloping shout
dered. swan.throated young damsei Of
the sentimental novel. And what dc
you suppose they ascribed the change
to? Man and his influence
They realize that man is tired Of
the robust type and turns with relief
to the more womanly type which An
ME Russell portrays so charmingly on
the stage
Said one: They insensibly realize
what is wanted. and like versatile act
ors. get all their properties and play
any character they please Not only
do women in the aggregate, but wo
men individually. find this out A
girl hears her brother and her mascu-
line friends praise May Jones figure
enthusiastically. and they do not
need broader hint. May Jones has
a 22-inch waist, so the smart girl goes
home and puts herself into stay that
gives her 19-inch measurement, and
there is nothing we can do to prevent
her example spreading to the other
girls, and so on into the colleges.
But this, as the professor OF physi-
cal culture has pointed out, is not the
most astonishing feature Of the stu
alton In their endeayor to typify to
men the slim. elegant frou-frou. tiny
footed. long-throated creature of his
romantic fancy. the women put on
clothes that absolutely change their
physique What she will to do by
force of deity and pressure she be-
comes"
Now. this is all too true, but hope
all will not become affected by this
latest fad. Let us hope the athletic
girl will remain with us while longer,
for what is more beautiful. after all,
than a fresh-faced. healthy looking
specimen of femininity?
= =
Odd designs for the trimming of
petticoats are, of course, hailed with
delight, the woman who has many
being naturally soon weary of the
same old ruffles and tucks. Fantastic
arrangements of insertion and lace
on the ruffle are the usual variations
Double ruffles. bias tucked ruffles. ruff
fies with milliners' folds of satin and
ruches of mousseline de sole are seen.
The close fit around the top and the
extreme fullness of width around the
feet are the two main points to be
considered. When economy must be
consulted there are ways and ways Of
making the necessary silk petticoats
without great expense. For instance.
black satin or brocade gown. which
has grown shiny with long use. is the
best of foundations and will last in
definitely. Rules of q good quality
of taffeta are the best of trimming for
the bottom. If this is not possible.
the old satin breadths that will not be
needed in making over into petit
coat may be cut bias. lined with good
cotton lining.
"A long, slender waist is a necessity
for the wearing of the new belts that
are wider than We have seen them in
many a day. The girdle that comes
to us with the cachet of Partisan APP
prevail is made of black elastic ribbon
measuring from to IL inches in width
and is powdered with tiny cut beads
of steel. and from the bottom of the
buckle depend two long fringed end
scarfs Of black silk, or steel spangled
net, or soft sash ribbon. Technically
this is known as an Empire belt, and
for the spring muslines and organizes
the importers have in store lot Of
wonderful wide belts of white pastel
tinted elastic ribbon. or thin glace kid
that are powdered 9Th gems set in
paste. and floating chiffon or tat
feta sashes.
Accepting this as the latest hint
from Paris. the dressmakers here lost
no time in bringing out their light
cloth. silk and muslin models, with
ribbon girdles wide enough to make
stout woman grow sick at heart. Cir
dies that extend from the waist line
up to the point of the bust are none
too wide for the light cotton gowns.
and all the new Powered ribbons lend
readily to this new scheme
of decoration.
An S-inch wide ribbon, for instance,
with field pesies. will be passed twice
around the waist of an organdie or
challie: its ends will be caught mp
over the bust and there made fast with
an oval buckle Of brilliants. A still
wider and longer sash of fiowery tat
feta will run out from under the arms,
encircle the waist twice. and passing
at the back through buckle as big as
a saucer. let fall its ends clear to the
tip of the fluffy train A little later We
are promised ali sorts of pretty but
fantastic laced and buttoned belts. for
use with our summer silks and silk
warp voiles. The lacing viii be done
with gold or silver cord. and the but
tons viii be Of bright paste or ca
bochon jewels.
saw a pretty blouse the other day
OF pearly gray drap de. saie. made into
groups OF fine tucks- The rever-like
collar was Of cream silk. covered with
o fine embroidery Stimulating lace The
fronts. which opened over plastr3n
- y>tasfaS cream y.ouSSalsno do e,3e