Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1901-01-14
DINING OUT IN CHINA.
A Foreigners Unique Entertain ment
at n Chinese Restaurant.

at n Chinese Restaurant.
From Blackwoods Magazine.
During the quarter of an hour before din
ner the guests (onIy male, of course) sit or
stroll about, eating cakes-a favorlte being
a sort Of hot fruit puff (Which each orders
for himselD-and slipping tea. Melon seeds
and sailed almonds are also In demand for
desutory nibbling
When our number is complete tremen-
dous encounter Of good manners ensues.
Though the question of precedence Is Of
course all cut and dried beforehand, each
man must be polite enough to simulate an
irrevocabie resolve not to accept any but
the lowest place until the hosts Friend,
go up higher" promotes him.
The table. as mentioned, Is ready laid
with an imposing show; regulation num-
Der Of regulation dishes, marshaled In reg
ulatiOn order: quaint porcelain stands filled
with slices OF oranges. pears, or cold goose;
towers OF purple ounce jelly squares, grapes
or shredded chicken breast; saucers OF
shrimps sailed in their skins and. never
forgotten. the famous eggs, preserved for
years in lime. and served, sliced, in beds OF
brown jelly (much priced for their acrid
and rather ammoniacal flavor, but Lot usu-
ally appreciated by foreigners). Hot wine
of various brands and vintages, Is served
throughout. That most commonly drunk ID
kind of sack or sherry negus-a yellow
wine distilled from Indian corn. Being COM
paratively mild, It Is served in small cups:
ardent white spirits OF rfce-samsau-:n
thimhlefuls. Rose" wine Is one of several
varieties favored with roses. mo wine ia
made from grapes though they are plenti-
ful In north China
When all are seated ready for the fray the
host raises his Gun:
Let us drink
We reply, Thanks, thanks!' then set to-
with chopsticks; picking now from one dish.
now from another. in piquant contrast OF
sweet, sour and salt.
The first fury of the opening attack being
spent. the shattered bands of hors d'oeuvres
are Withdrawn, and the guests saunter into
the other rooms for a Whit Of tobacco Or
whisper it not In Gath-a pipe OF opium, en-
attendant the real repast.
Certain traditional dishes form the back
bone of the feast. For instance, that most
delicious of bouillis. sharks fin soup. always
opens the ball. 1t is served In a large bowl,
smoking hot. and consists OF gfutinous en-
tanglement of soft fins stewed in their own
liquor. The flavor Is slightly salt, but ex-
quisite. Another traditional dish appears
toward the close Of the feast, In the shape
of a. fat duck reposing In its broth. Though
boiled so thoroughly that touch from
chopstick dissolves 1t without aid of knife,
the bird appears ON the table with smooth
white breast and limbs intact, and its nobly
toothsome appearance is usually greeted
| with buzz Of anicipatory applause.
The remaining items OF the menu are only
/ curious from the mode OF their selection,
for each guest chooses his own dish. taking
care that It shall harmonize with those al
ready selected. One names salmt OF wild
duck. his neighbor dish of stewed mush-
rooms, and SO on. y
Wine. as remarked, Is drunk throughout
and always hot (the Chinese eschew all cold
| drinks. The cups being small. their num-
Der has little effect: they cheer. but do not
| as rule inebriate. mtoxication Is extreme
ly rare. though not apparently from moral
| considerations so much As from those OF ex-
pediency, for tipsiness is not generally re-
garded as disgracfng.
The finger game. resembling the Italian
mora Is played during meals, the loser
| swallowing penalty a cup of wine. Two
| men play at a time. They show suddenly
and simultaneously certain number of the
| fingers of one hand, and as each thrusts
| them forth he shouts or squeals the num-
ber which he thinks will be the total of his
| own and his opponents fingers. Thus, IL A
| thinks B Is going to put up three fingers
he shows four, and calls Seven" While
B, expecting him to show two, himself
shows one, and vociferates "Three! This
| simple game Is immensely popular through
out the eighteen provinces.
| Dishes are not, as rule, cleared away
l during meals so that toward the close of
dinner the table Is stopped and strewn WITH
i debris. veEifable field Of carnage. From
time to time the convfyes retire to smoke.
] and occasionally refresher tn the shape