davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-04-27
THE LATEST STYLES
IN HANDKERCHIEFS.

The flIny thing of silk or lawn "to
hide a smile or dry the passing tear Of
which the poet has sung plays It's. own
part in the world of dress. It's impor-
lance, indeed, has not been overlooked
by the greatest of dramatists. for did
not Shakespeare himself make the cul-
minating scene in 'Othello' turn round
the question of the handkerchief. which
was made of such delicate stuff and
had magic in the web of it? Desdemo-
mas handkerchief, which was stolen
from her. was her undoing.
The most fashionable handkerchiefs
this year are those that are enbroider-
ed, and especially those that are em-
broidered in a design worked on the
body of the material rather than In
openwork. In spite of this, however, q
great many people stil use handker-
chiefs trimmed with lace and insertion
let in either one or two rows. one OF
the newest designs is an exceedingly
pretty one. Instead Of the handker-
chief being cut quite square 1t IS round
at the corners, and these corners are
trimmed with tucks. These tuciSs are
only sewed at the bottom and are free
at the top so they can be easily wash
ed, but they all fall back into their
place in the ironing, and any girl with
taste can easily manufacture such a
handkerchief for herself. The dainti-
ness of 1t Is greatly increased by two
rows of insertion and an edging of lace.
There was a time when silk hand
kerchiefs were all the rage. but such is
the vagary of fashion that now nobody
uses them except under the unromantic
stress of circumstances cold, when
china silk is the most pleasant and the
most comfortable thing to use.
H.
of the hem is the thing which domi-
mates all other considerations this year.
In the past broad hens were all the
rage, while now the narrower the hem the
more fashionable is it regarded A hem
half an inch wide is almost the stand
ard of the moment, though occasional
ly some people insist on having the hem
one inch wide, and, on the other hand,
there are people who. If they can get
the hem less than half an inch wide, do
so.
So far as embroidery goes. the most
fashionable handkerchiefs are orna-
lnented in one corner only.
Among the most favored designs are
the true lovers knot and a basket Of
flowers, while another is a combination
of the rose. shamrock and thistle, and
a fourth is the fieur-de-lis.
The use of initials is not so much In
vogue as it was. but still it cannot be
said to be out of fashion, for initials
always will be used. What is out of
fashion is elaborate and ornamental
lettering, and the best people are hav-
ing a small, plain letter. not exceeding
a half to three-quarters of an inch in
length, in the corner opposite to the de-
sign.
Mems handkerchiefs are only differ
ent now in point of size from womens,
for it is the fashion to have the mate
rial of exactly the same hneness as Is
employed for ladies' use, only a broader
hem is often substituted for the mar
rover one affected by women.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-04-27

as they have begun, for some of the
sashes are ornate in the extreme EN-
broideries of gold and silver, with silk
applications. insertions of lace and
fluffy rows of ruching. to say nothing of
lacy frills, make the sash matter of
many francs to the fashionable pur-
chaser
For summer outing gowns the correct
tints are bucksSin tan, mustang gray,
rezzin green and a delicate cream.
Grape flannel is the popular fabric with
the English now, and I daresay its in
fluence will be felt across the water for
in matters of that sort the English are
usually the criterions. Speaking of the
new co1ors. 7 understand that one of
them is to be known as Alexandra pur-
pie We vii. have. too, this season a
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-04-27

Marie Louise blue and a Bohemian blue,
colors which will make a close race for
supremacy in popularity. Ruby rose is
another scheduled for a run in favor.
For dinner wear the summer grena-
dimes are made with insertions of lace,
shaped into the gown in ornamental de-
signs Some of the insertions are wide
below and narrow to the waist. Others
form overskirt and basque designs on
the skirt and even simulate f1ounces and
frills. Embroidered net and jetted net.
used over colored silk slips. have a con-
spicuous place in the shops, but doubt
if they will be favored by the exclu-
sives, as they have been so long In IA
vor that they are a bit tiresome.
Cut out cretonnes and brooches are
among the newer dress adornments
Flights of birds, gar1ands of flowers and
groups of butterflies are considered ap-
propriate and are applied to both cloth
and evening garments. Butterflies are
conspicuous features in the seasons
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-04-27

In choosing game the old and tough
is easily avoided by the experienced,
but for the guidance of the young
housewife certain rules may be given.
Take the tip of the lower part of a
birds beak between the thumb and the
forefnger If the bird be young, the
beak will bend. perhaps even break, but
if it be old the beak will sustain its
weight without yielding. Young par
tridges have yellowish legs, but they
become darker with age. young
cock pheasant has spur without
point In a 2-year-old bird the point is
there. but is quite short, and in one Of
years old and upward the point is
long and sharp. The plumage of both
cock and hen pheasants becomes darker
each year.
The age of hares and rabbits is best
discovered by noticing their ears. If
these are soft and easily slit, one may
be sure that they are young, for old
hares and rabbits have ears as tough
as leather. which can only be torn by
using considerable force.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-04-27

limited by her good taste and ingenu-
ity- The party was held one spring after
noon, the artist having been apprised
that as it was the last meeting of the
class they would like to make it a semi
social affair. Consequently he gave the
model a holiday, tucked away his paint
boxes. brushes. pa1ettes and rags and,
arrayed in the festive garb of the Phil
istines instead of his painting jacket,
was ready to receive the ladies at least
an hour before their arrival.
About this time messenger boys, bear
ing curious looking packages, began to
arrive, singly, in twos and threes and at
last even in quartets and quintets.
He began to open the packages, and
out of each one dropped a fat cushion.
Before the first member of the class
came in he had 40 pillows piled up in
the corner. There were all sorts of
cushions, from the 1ordly one of burnt
leather. worth at least $25, to the hum
bic denim covered affair with the APP
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-04-27

ARTS, April 6.-"Pour Etre Al
NEE" the new play at the Ath-
enee theater. has scored great
success. 1t is drama that wo-
men like. and this will be read
lily understood when I remark
that the costumes are superb and are
models from DOucet, Cabot and Doeull-
let. The play seems blessed with a SUI
perhuity Of evening gowns, and. while
the most of these are pretty, they are
not remarkably novel in design How
ever, one does not look for new things
In evening costuming in the spring
Gowns for house and street wear
show many original touches One for
afternoons at home has a particularly
novel arrangement of the basqued
blouse of creamy guipure. It is long.
pointed in front and adorned with a
broad sash OF white taffeta draped
from the left shoulder to the waist
and then laid in broad folds to form q
girdle The skirt of white mousseline,
is crossed BY wide bands Of taffeta silk.
The sleeves terminate at the elbows in
frills of lace. a lace collar caught down
at one side by a chou of silk draping
the shoulders.
For dinner gown black jetted and
fetching combination. The embroidery
in the Pour Etre Aimee" model was in
cerise, color repeated in the chiffon
underlying the straps of lace uniting
collar and corsage- Cerise chiffon
formed a foundation for the bands upon
the sleeves The lace net of the skirt
fell in soft. spreading outline over the
plated chiffon friIl elegantly arranged
as a foundation for the cemitrain- En-
broideries OF flowers assembled from a
thick cluster of foliage covering the
pointed eNtremities of the net the vine
like endorsement Of flowers and leaves
dividing the Overskirt into paneled sec
tions, through which the mauve under
slip shimmered among the jetted flow
ers ike mingled sunset and moonrise.
There is a general tendency toward
paneled skirts and oversl1irts- I have
observed it on many of the chic models,
but the arrangement is likely to en-
phasize angularity of figure.
Black ottoman silk decorated with
appliques of velours and embroidered
in colors makes a dignified gown for
a matron's wear. saw such a gar
ment on the figure Of one OF the most
conservative ladies of the Faubourg St.
German and know that 1t must be one
Of the most approved of the spring
fashions. The panels. as I should call
them, wera cut open half the length of
the skirt and showed underneath a
plating of black mousseline de sole
very bouffant. The blouse was a
charming affair. all narrow rows of lace
arranged on a founda ton of white
mousseline de sole. the sleeves, peeping
from underneath the bolero.t ending. in
pointed, lace trimmed cuffs
1t is expected that the summer fab
RIGS viii be of the diaphanous order,
sheer muslins. organizes and fine lawns.
The fneneSs of material will be ennha-
sized by the application of the most
delicate laces used Iavishly in the form
of edgings, insertions and yokes. Most
women look well in such gowns, and
the loose flowing, draped effects in
which fashionable frocks are to be
made are becoming to most women
Long fichus of lace and white sheer
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-04-27

or application of fancifuI trimming
serving to make them distinctly deco
rative.
The use of velvet bands IN trimming
heralds a deviation in frock decoration.
The all velvet gown is becoming a trife
monotonous, and ribbon velvet trim
mings are too recent a mode to be rein
troduced just yet. Consequently all
sorts of wide trimmings in velvet are
made use of. some of the scrolled pat
terms bordered with stitchings in silk
being very elaborate and striking.
Scarfs and sashes go hand in hand.
They are of some fine material like
chiffon, mousseline de sole or silk.
Sometimes the sash is draped directly
from the shoulders, a great. fluffy chou
ornamenting the corsage and another
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-04-27

or at their seaside or country resi-
dences. The artist himself is a man Of
good position If not of wealth, and his
aristocratic relatives are powers in the
social world Of which most of the wo-
men, rich but aspiring. were but parts
of the background, and, although they
wished to make some return for the ia
vor, they would not have dreamed of
offering him money. To show their ap-
probation of his kindness an old fash
toned surprise party on the plan of the
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-04-27

OCIETY and civilization seem
determined to make the lot of
the bachelor man a happy one.
In this society is not farseeing,
for many an otherwise useful
man thus becomes confirmed to
a life Of selfish single blessedness and is
quoted as a precedent by eligible youths
anxious to escape the matrimonial
y0kes which worthy mothers possessed
Of large families of marriage
daughters seem determined to impose
The deadliest Of all foes to matrimony
is the good looking bachelor of artistic
tendencies who has been able to drift
along to the state of incipient grayness
without damage to his heart or popu-
larfty.
As a rule. he dwelIs alone or with
some congenial male chum in studio
apartments, and. if he has ample
means, what studios they are-noise-
less with oriental rugs and rare hang
ings that stifie the cumbrous football
and the shrill. penetrating voice of the
katvdid typel Then there are pictur-
esque couches and divans spread invit-
fngly across corners enriched with
treasures collected during numerous
foreign wanderings- The den is pictur-
esque luxury materialized-
If the bachelor is liked by the fair
sex. his rooms will look like a woman's
is no species Of fancy work that the
feminine admfrer considers too elabo-
rate for her bachelor idols
The bachelor, whether he be painter
musician. author. lawyer or physician,
depends a good deal for his success
upon the good viii Of women. The
painter does their portraits and lines
the walls of their houses with canvases.
the musicians concerts are profitable
directly or indirectly through their pat
ronage; women form large proportion
of the readers of the age; the young
lawyer who can work the social role
successfully is the one who comes early
and happily into a circle of clients
while the young doctor-well. If 1t were
not for feminine Experimentation he
would be a charge upon the town in a
twaIvemonth-
since the vanity and the income Of
the professional man are both Undated
bv the favor Of the ladies of his &C
ouaintance, it is not to be wondered at
that he loses sleep thinking of plans to
please them
The bachelor apartments are turned
upside down for the chic dinners.
Iuncheons and teas. which are served
either from the caterers or by the
bachelors special man. IT the bache-
Tor is not yet sufficiently enriched for
such elaborate functions, he issues
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-04-27

look upon him as a machine for grind
Ing out amusement.
A well known artist-his name is
known on two continents-has during
the winter been giving the use of his
studio to a little coterie of society wo-
men who were engaged in morning
pursuit Of knowledge under the aus
pices of one of the fashionable drawing
room lecturers.
OF course. the artist would have ac-
cepted no compensation if it had been
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-04-27

trimmings. for they are embroidered or
5etted over the surface of most of the
pretty new frocks. In iridescent en-
broideries their effect is particularly
striking Fashioned of Jewels or Of
gemmed gauze, they make smart orna-
ments for the couture. although tiaras
are again reasserting their sway. and
for those who have them are considered
the finish par excellence for a fashion
able function.
CATHERINE TALBOT
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-04-27
DINNER.

MOCK TURTLE.-Take a small shoulder Of
mutton and hang it for several days; then bone
it and lay It on a chopping board. Nix together
half a teaspoonful Of pepper and the same guam
tity Of ground mace and with It sprinkle the
meat. Lay the joint dozen large oysters and
sprinkle thoroughly with bread crumbs. pepper
and salt. Roll the meat neatly, sew down the
flap and tie round with tape. Place this IN
saucepan with q small quantity Of water and add
an onion stuck with cloves and four long peppers
Cover the pan closely turn the meat once while
It is cooking. Take pint Of white stock thick
it with piece Of butter the size Of a pigeons
egg, work with -four and add It to q dozen oys-
tiers. Dish the meat. remove the tape and pour
the sauce over it. Garnish with tufts Of parsley
and slices Of gherkin down the center Of the meat.
In cooking allow 20 minutes to every pound Of
meat, and be sure that it SINNERS very slowly.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-04-27
Gown of Rose Crane.

A stunning frock is of pale rose pink
Grape metieu cut after the order Of
things mysterious-that is to say, the
folds of the frock define the lines of the
figure ever so slightly and seem to fall
from a bolero of beautiful lace studded
with pearls and coral A bordering Of
the same lace arranged in Greek design
makes a charming finish to the hem of
the skirt.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-04-27

Tea gowns, tea jackets and peignors
galore play an important part in the
fashionable trousseaux of the moment
1t is an unwise thing for people with
very limited allowances when on mat
rimony bent to invest in many frockS
which carry date 1t is so much better
to put a large outlay into really good
1ludergarments adorned with lace and
delicate handwork. peignors. petticoatss
etc
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-04-27

A good 1iniment for use in cases of
accident is made by mixing two parts
camphorated oil, two parts alcohol and
one part chloroform. Shake before US
ing and rub well in with the palm Of
the hand
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-04-27

marking the waist line and forming the
point of dependence for the long. sweep
ing sash ends that fall almost to the
border of the skirt. The pope is said
to have the most beautiful sashes' in
the world but I fear even his holiness
viii have to look out for his honors in
that line if the fashion designers keep on
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-04-27
LUNCHEON OR TEA.
Fruit.
Sauted Kidneya. Potato Strnw5
Syllabub. Rolls and Butter.
Iea.

sAUTED KIDNRYs-Hare three sleeps kidneys
and sharp knife. Take of the very thin skins
and cut out the cores; then cut the kidneys
across in slices about a quarter Of inch thick.
Having done that, dust them well with salt and
pepper. Place one ounce Of butter in a pan.
shake them about in the butter over the fire for
three or four minutes. Next they are taken out
and the butter allowed to drain of them. While
in this pan put them half ounce 81 glaze
and three tablespoonful Of brown sauce and let
them boil for two three minutes. The kidneys
are now added to this sauce and must be allowed
to get hot through. but on no account must they
be allowed to boil, OF they win shrivel up and
get tough. Arrange the kidneys on q hot diat
and pour the sauce round
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-04-27
Popular
Bachelors
s-o-o.o-o-o.oeo.o.o.o.o. o.o.o.e.e.o.e.0.e.e.s

cards for special at home days, and at
these he dispenses tea OF his own brew
ing and light refreshments of the sand
wich and cake variety To vary the in
terest he secures the appearance Of
some lion of the hOur-literary or mu-
sical-and the fair ones fairly besiege
him for invitations. for where lone
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-04-27

anatomical demands of the figure, char
acterize many of the new costumes
Frills and founces still prevail but
there is a conservatism in their draping
which indicates that they cannot sur
vive much longer in their present form.
Very little fullness is displayed in the
frills of the hour. a border of ruching
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-04-27

stuff viii give an effective and pictur-
esque touch. Pictures OF beauties Of the
third empire and the restoration period
are being earnestly studied by design
ers for original touches, for. according
to the creed Of the Partisan couturiere.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-04-27

crinolines. The long, sloping lines and
graceful draperies of the costumes of
the earlier period of her popularity
have been taken as types.
Pointed waists with straight fronts,
draped little or much. according to the
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-04-27

it is better to be the introducer Of a
new mode than to be elected to the
Kingdom of heaven. After the initiated
costumes of the third empire those of
the restoration have the greatest ca
chet- Eugene was then queen of fash
ion, and right royalty did she reign
There will, however. be no return to
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-04-27

pliqued designs in contrasting colors.
All the newest fashions in cushions
were of course represented. and many
original silk trimmed designs were
among the 40.
When the guests arrived. they found
the artist lost to the world reveling in
experiments for producing new and pic
turesque effects.
Given $40 and lot Of pillows" he
said, any artist with a scrap of taste
can have a palatial studio In his de-
lirium of enthusiasm he whacled from
its shelf an ivory Buddha worth 800 at
the most niggar1ly of uncles, nor
breathed a sigh. although under other
circumstances the accident would have
brought forth the most yellow inter-
jections in his vocabulary.
ETHEL KNOX
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-04-27

FISH CUTLETs.-Take about one pound OF cold
boiled fish, free it entirely from skin and bones
and pound it in a mortar with pepper and say 70
taste and a little grated nutmeg. Make a little
white sauce with the liquor in which the hsh was
boiled; add to it the pounded FISH; mix Well
then add (of the fire. the yolks Of two eeg4-
Stir the mixture thoroughly, turn il out on nat
dish and spread it to the thickness Oh hah an
inch. Fiatten and set away in the larder The
next day obtain from it many outlets as posi-
bic with a shaped cutter, egg and bread orumo
them and fry in a large pan Of boiling fat. Drain
on a piece Of paper in front Of the fire and serve
very hot, with garnish Of fried parsley.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-04-27

ARTS. April 6.-''Pour Etre All
NEE" the new play at the Ath-
enee theater, has scored a great
success. 1t is a drama that wo-
men like, and this will be read
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-04-27
Pillow
Parties

OCIETT and civilization seem
determined to make the lot of
the bachelor man a happy one.
In this society is not farseeing,
for many an otherwise useful
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-04-27
BIOuses and skirts For Morning
Wear.

CATHERINE TALBOT.
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1901-04-21

~ & CO, the goods were removSd from
thescellar and nrSt door. Schnfer 4
Drtehorst took Z Ereet many kegs@and
bafTels from the ceIlsfsand are reason.
ably sase on the irst floor. which il
considerably above the street level
The dry goods houses, farther up the
street, got their boxes and bales out
of the cellars without much difficulty
At Hubbard & Paulrs a later start was
made than at other wholesale groceries
and 1t is possible that all the stock. will
not have been removed when the water
comes.
At midnight large forces of men
were at work in the jobbing district
and the cafes and restaurants were fill
ing orders for sandwiches and hot, cof-
fee. Many idle men found employ
ment in this work, and1were in such de-
mand that they were in position to de-
mand and receive fancy wage for their
work.