The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1901-09-08
FALL buds FOR men
NEW YORK NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS.
SHOWING SOME STYLES THAT
AREsINNOVATIONs
TUXEDO COAT IS BAN1sHED
Raglan OVcrcOats Becoming Too
Common, and Mast Give Way to
the Skirfed and Chester
field Patterns. g

L
tons in mems wear this fall and winter
| says the New York Times. The word in
] novation is to be Understood only in a.
comparative sense. for the changes will
be as compared with last year rather
! than as related to what men have ever
worn years before
The styles as a. rule are to be simple
! and every effort is to be made to make
! gentlemen as ineonspdcuous as possible
| This is by the dictate of the best-dress1d
| Americans, men whose tastes direct what
! the best talIors do Mems furnishers
make little effort nowadays to shape the
! fashions. They wait until the men of best
taste come from abroad, their country
| places, and clubs to give their fall and
winter orders Then the furnisher con-
! siders their orders as the style for the
uninitiated who does not give so much of
| his attention to planning his clothes
! The furnisher makes Il number of-yent-
lures or suggestions. and the gen Imam
| makes his own selections. His idea is to
! improve what has teen found salts factory
| in the past season, to discard what has
| become common. The fashions are a sort
! of evolution. the furnisher will tell you
and really radical changes are seldom
| introduced with, any degree of success.
! The most striking innovation for the
! fall and winter viii be the discarding of
! the dinner coat or Tuxedo The best
| dressed men have decided that it is COM
mon and the fashionable tailors are not
making it for the coming seasons wear.
! In fact the edict has now gone forth
! that no coat is smart to wear at any
! formal function or in any place where
ladies are to be- present unless it has
| tail to IT. This isEtrue for day as well
| as night. The evening jacket has come
to be regarded as almost as negligee as a
| business coat.
There will, however. be new coat
| something like. the Tuxedo. This new
coat will havs breast and side pockets
7 and a silk-faced shawl collar, and I'M
! like the dinner jacket, will close with
| two buttons. These coats are designed
for home and club wear. and are to be
/ worn with sfngle-breasted waistcoats and
| trousers of the same material white
shirts, black ties, and either lace or but
! ton shoes. They are just. handy dress
coats TO wear to dinner or toss1ounge
| around the club IN.
Another innovation is, to be the BAN
ishment sof the. raglan evercoat54 every
kind of evercoat in fact except the skirt
ed and Chesterfield patterns. The rag
! Ian has come to be considered common,
/ and the decree has been promulgated that
it must not be. The overcoats viii fit the
| figure rather closely, and will not look so
conspicuous as the long flowing raglan
Although the overeoat, lis to fit the
| figure very closely, the clothes are not
to do so. The military coat has gone,
except for the very military or athletic
! figure. The lines Of the figure are not
to be so accentuated as they have been
heretofore. The new jacket will be loose
I and will have perfectly straight back.
One Fifth avenue tailor has designed
! an entirely new sort of house suit. 1t
! will be made of brilliant colors, i'm a
/ e-fIIr
trousers will look like pajama trousers
j and will fasten around the waist with a
broad bit of ribbon with large silk tas-
/ sells at the end. The suit may be worn
with a silk shirt. OF course, this suit is
! designed for wear only in ones own
! room. - Ah
a distinct novelty in an evening suit
| wifi be made of a dark gray cloth, with
| a collar of the shawl pattern, the coat
to be faced with gray siIk.-T The trousers
and waistcoat will be made Of the, same
i material aS the eoat-a These suits are not
1 expected I'd be worn except at stag af-
+ fairs, at hotels and -cfubsE and at Ijtne
/ theater when women are not in the
/ party. YSSt'|''
4 TaTors are dong fhefr best to force
some new fashions In sack clothes, but
! the best ones are abidingf-by the taste
| of the well-dressed customers.
Smart talors are making trousers
/ rdunef VIDE. Dut dNOlQ1nS the pSSIOp
! form. The trousers are about 171s inches
| at the knee and 1872 inches at the bottom.
J They VIII hang perfectly straight from
+ the hips
In all evening clothes. the white waist
coat will have prominent place These
waistcOats will be made both single and
/ double-brea sted, and will have buttons
! covered with the same mate OF which
/ the WaiStcoaf is made. In the evening
! clothes most Well-dreSsed men will wear
! there will be no changes worth record
! ing. The garment seems to be a staple
! fixture, and the best ta;lors are content
with the present standard The frock
i coat, too, will be virtually the same as
! last year.
worn than usual. probably. The buff
waistcOat, so popular last season and the
/ season before, is no longer in vogue
/ while the white waistcoat with small
( stripes Will be used almost entirely. It
! looks neat always, and is in the best
/ form.
The dark-colored shirt is gone for the
! present. Whit shirts viii prevail, and
| when coloTs are used at all, they will be
only in tine simplest shades, generally in
some small figure on a white back
! ground The shirts will have fine lines
! and the bosom will be lust as wide aS
! dress shirts will have very fine ribbed
F, pique bosoms, but the piqUe bosom is not
50 popular; and most shirts will have
1 The younger set, which is allowed some
/ liberties, may wear a fine pleated shirt
! which same Shirtmakers are showing
! The eolored shirts that are to be worn
viii be unusually neat The figures are
printed on madopianS or on satin brooches
or percales. The former fabrics are Civ
en- more attention by the fine haberdasf-
ers than percales are. The figures are
geometr-cals In black, dark blue, red or
/ lavender; few stripes, narrow and wide
ly spaced, will also be worn
For wear with business suits rla ted
colored shirts will be quite popular, it is
thought The plain negligae with a CEN
! ter pfaIt. and made of madras or fine
! flannel will also be worn to some extent
! The hannels are designed for negIigae
and come in stripes.
In collars there will be reversion to
| the old wing design. The high turned
down affair. it Is expected, will grail
ually lose it's vogue. There are TO be
! some collars designed Of an entirely new
shape, but the prevailing styles will be
the wing, the poke, and the straight
! stander. These will be made in both
wide and narrow stitching. The wing
| collar with the wide stitching will not be
! as smart that with the narrow stitch
| ing, owing to the liability of the edge
! where the wing bends. to swell and gap
| The wing collars have well balanced
| moderately spaced wings, the bottom OF
the wings forming straight line There
| viii Se sons very large wings
| With the Punishment of the high turn
| ed-down collar the bow tie will 20 There
| will be very few bows of any kind not
| W1thstanding the craze In England over
| the bow with the hanging wings In ali
| ties dark eolors will prevail The shades
VIII be quite, though distinct and there
| WIZ De some col0rS that have not before