Evening star., 1901-02-09
FASHIONS IN MEMS DRESS
SOME NEW WRINKLES NOW SEEN IN
EVENING WEAR.

From the Haberdasher.
The most popular form Of evening SIT
continues to be that which we have fol-
lowed closely, and with but few changes, for
many years. The evening coat of the
model of 1901 is thirty-eight inches long,
for a man five feet eight inches high. The
shoulders are not cut quite as square as
those in the sack suits. They are slightly
built up. The side seams are well curved
The upper body of the coat should fit the
form closely. The skirts commence at the
back of the hip bone, leaving clear front
to the coat which gives 1t the appearance
of an Eton jacket when viewed from the
front. The tails taper gradually and are
about five inches at the bottom with very
slightly rounded corners. The buttons on
the coat are about three and half inches
apart The peaked lapel faced to the but
tonholes with twill silk. the edges of the
lapes are blind stitched. The sleeves are
finished with a three-buttoned vent. The
waistcoats If single-breasted, are made of
the same material as the coat and have
peaked lapels and an elongated q opening.
Trousers should be cut moderately full
above the knee and be about eighteen
inches at the knee and fifteen inches at the
inStep. The side seams are welted. The
fancy braids are not in good form; very
few men indulge in these semi military ef-
fects Evening suits are made of fine
weave worsteds and soft undresSed worst
ed I think the white waistcoats which
are made of fine barathea lawn and linen
duck, with neat pearl buttons, are very
good. They certainly have the sanction of
the smartest dressers.
Dinner Jackets.
In dinner jackets the undressed black
worsted is the best and the most favored
cloth. 1 do not think the mixtures of fancy
weave will attain any noticeable degree of
popularity. The dinner Jacket for the aver
age man should be about twenty y-nine inch
es long, with shoulders slightly built up.
The back has three seams. The roll collar
faced to the edges with twill silk and with
buttonhole for the boutonnfer worked
into the left lapel is the best form. The
jackets have no other buttonholeS and no
buttons except the three small ones on the
sleeve vents. The jackets may have hip
pockets or not. and are cut with a slight
curve below the roll.
In all that pertains to haberdashery,
evening dress continues to be conventional
In collars the plain standing forms, those
that lap, as well as the lust meeting" type
are best. For stout men the slightly poked
collar is perhaps better than the straight
standing choker; 1t looks mupch better, at
least The haberdasher must be careful to
study his customer before laying down the
collar style for evening dress. Fold collars
with square and with round points are be-
ing recommended for wear with the even
ing jacket
For Evening Dress.
For evening dress the plain white linen
shirt Is best. One may wear with the din
ner jacket the new fine pique white shirt
with very neat pleats. But do not recon-
mend them. One model of this shirt which
is very good shows a center piece fianked
by pique, and then with two and a half
small pleats. The pleated linen shirt is not
recommended for evening wear under any
With the coat the white
cotton barathea, white lawn and white bril-
liantine ties in the batswing and butterfly
forms are best. With the jacket the ties
are of black silk or peau de sole or bara-
thea.
The heavy white pearl and white chev-
rette gloves with self backs are now the
best form. These gloves are worn rather
large and are designed for wear at all
evening functions which call one out Of
doors, such as the opera, theater, recep-
tions and other purely social affairs.
The soft black hat of the Homburg form,
with the brim trimmed with black-ribbed
si.A, and the band and lining of black twill
silk, Is best for wear with the evening
only.
Pumps for dancing are made on slipper
models and Of fine patent leather. They are
lined inside with black twill silk and the
opening has black silk ribbon edging
about a quarter of an inch wide. The bows
at the instep are Of ribbed silk about one
inch wide and tied into very fiat wrinkle
less bow.
In day dress the mode is more elastic
than 1t has been for many years. We are
permitted to use color, If we use 1t sparing-
ly. 1 have noticed very decided tendency
on the part of the best shirt makers to ad-
here to the regular and neat stripes. The
dashy. bold colors and the vari-colored
stripes are not in as good taste as the one
color schemes. Stripes run up and down
the bosom, and up and down as we'll as
around the cuffs. Some of the shirts of
most recent Introduction show cross stripes
on the bosom, but there is nothing in this
do not think that thwart stripes are being
considered.
Turned-Up Trousers.
The fold collar continues to sell well. The
latest forms show the round point again.
The square-point is but something different
and has not displaced the round-point col
lar The narrow ''one-and-a-half' derbies
are now made very long in silks and bara-
theas. One Of the most recent forms shows
q solid colored ground with q var1-colored I
quarter-inch stripe running directly down
the center. The derbies are tied tightly and
a pin is inserted about two inches below the
knot. The newest pins are Of carbuncleS In
an oval form surrounded by neat gold |
frame.
The fad Of turning up the trousers at the |
bottom should have died with the summer.
but 1t has not. Many misguided youths |
parade the streets these fine winter days
with their trousers reefed for storms. That
which is without beauty Is often without
purpose. 1 think this time-worn adage ap-
plies to the trouser turn up very aptly.
The same might be said against turning
back the wrist Of the glove. 1t is all right
to do 1t on warm days. but when the |
weather Ia cold common sense ought to tell
one to button the glove.