The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1901-09-22
GIuttouous Natives Whose Method OF
IaduIging Their Appetites Is
Extremely Repulsive.
TEA AND ITS ACC0MPANIMENTs
CEREMONIES AND MODES
OF WORSHIP IN A LAMAsERY.
sisht of semi-Barbarous Monks at
Prayer Gave Confidence to IraV7
eIers of Another Faith.

To Kui-Takar. q village situated near
the mouth of the Takar-Mak, and which
Law In a deep and narrow valley, we mace
a continuous descent by following a series
Of picturesque, declining spurs. The valley
as we advanced grew narrower. and before
reaching Kui-Takar it was little more than
a gorge. We were certainly marching
through a most changeable climate, the
higher elevations were still swept by a
wind Of almost Arctic severity, but IN the
valley itself, the shun shining for the first
time in many days, it was as clear and
eouable as an April morning in England.
For hours We saw nothing of mankind al
though one would have thought that this
fertile valley would TEEN with evidences
of human habitation. The O'clock, howev-
err. do not like the plains; they are essen
tiaIly a hill people, and doubtless the wilder
mountain Businesses sheltered a consider
able population, as large herds of domes-
ticated yaks covered the hillsides, adding
to the pastoral quietness of the scene. The
hills fell around us in startling cliffs, or in
long slopes. covered with the first heavy
tree growth we had seen since leaving the
country south of the Charing Nor. Hawks
were in the air over our heads, and eagles
and snow v~ultures above the bTows of the
boIdest OF the mountains. Warmed and
aroused by the brilliance Of the suns rays
the restfuI picture seemed to suggest those
conditions so welcome to the traveller weary
OF the hesh-peace and plenty. We Toasted
at noontime under the shade of a spread
ing cedar. wild by the waterside, and while
we dozed and smoked in the lazy languor
of contentment we were joined by a pair
of a~ncients tending their herds on the hill
side. They wore s~heepskins, and their
1raaSy bIack hair fell IOVy on their haCkS-
their faces were corrugated with wrinkles,
and in their eyes was an expression OF
plaintive hardness, the outcome of their
rude, pastoral life. They approached tim
idly and presented us with a small bowl
of chura. Noticing the friendliness of our
welcome they were soon Joined by a score
of similar shepherds from some tents
near by.
IMPROMPTU WRESTLING MATCH.
Among them was a fne-looking youth of
nineteen or twenty, evidently one who con-
sidered himself mo small bones" for with
out any signs of establishment or curiosity,
and assuredly none of abashment, he
promptly stalked up to .one of the Kiang-
sis and invited him to a wrestling match.
The latter. nothing remiss. gave us a wink.
as IL TO intimate that he would teach this
young barbarian a salutary lesson, while
II OIu n - III pIcNdulAOn III
the knife Of their David. and it was well
that they did so. for the two combatants
throttled each other like furies, and when
the fiery young brave received a pretty Sc
we're punishment he jumped at his adver-
sary with such ferOcity that we were glad
TO have the two young devils taken apart,
and still more glad to know that they were
going TO travel different roads.
Before reaching Kui-Takar we descended
20 a plain of a still lower level, the charm
OF the landscape constantly increasing. 1t
seemed almost Incredible that but one short
day before we were painfully cropping our
way through a region of appalling bar
renness and sterility, while here at its very
base. and but a few miles removed, nestled
a cup-like glen, all smoothed to pastoral
peace by natures happiest mood. In it's
deepest hollow an alpine lakelet flashed
like a jewel among the cedars and pines
standing about the reedy rim.
Unfortunately about this time also we
experienced the first sharp taste of the
terrible Thibetan ~mosquito-or it might be
more correct to reverse the statement and
say that the mosquitoes experienced their
first taste Of us. Before leaving Gajum we
had heard warnings of the various Difficult
ties we should encounter in venturing
through this land of the Golok: but, as is
often the case. we found that these ac-
counts had left i'm our minds an unduly
magnified image of the difficulties as COM
pared with our actual experiences. In this
generalization the mosquito must be ex-
cepted; description and adjectives are alike
unable TO exaggerate the discomfort. and
even torture, produced by these pests.
Four OF five miles before reaching Kui-
Takar we came to some cliffs, covered with
a thick deposit of loess. from the summit
of which We saw another long valley to
the north sheltering small villages and
encampments, showing that there must be
a considerable population in the surround
ing district The village itself was disap-
pOintingly small. not more than fftv
houses. and these but mere novels Of loose
" gathered stones. and, as abodes. much
inferior to the tents Of the nomads. Food
of all kinds. however, was very abundant
here. and we were able 10 purchase large
quantities of tsambs, dried meat and other
necessaries at astOnisaingly low rates.
A GLUTTONOUS PEOPLE.
On our arrival the native population
seemed to have suspended all other labor
for the enjoyable business Of eating As
i have had occasion TO remark before. eat
ing is the Thibetan's chief occupation
when kind fortune permits. I had been for
many months among Thibetsns and Mon.
gols, and. TO say nothing OF their man
nerS. excluding women from all compan-
ionship at their meals, dipping their hands
UP 10 their wrists in one dish. eating
Sleeps fnsides. and sleeping under tents
crawling with vermin engendered by their
filthy habits. had never in a single instance
noted temperance and frugality, except
from necessity. for in their nature they are
gluttonous and will eat at any and all times
till they are gorged OF whatever they can
get. and then lie down and sleep like brutes.
nave sometimes amused myself with test
ing their appetites. and 1 never knew them
10 refuse anything that could be eaten.
Their stomach Is literally their god. and
the only chance OF doing anything with
them is by first making 10 this tutelar
deity a grateful offering. Instead OF scorn-
ing tainted and UNIT food, they will devour
II with avidity. even with the fun knowI-
edge that they must pay dearly for this in
diligence.
Ku.-Takar IL one Of the most important
stagfs on the southern ramihcation OF q
trade route, which. after reaching Tchong-
eiba, crosses the Ma-Chu and leads TO the
northwest through the Ark district. Two
large open spaces are situated near the
east and west ends Of fha toun