The times., 1901-05-26
In THE CHINESE QUARTER
Something of the Oriental Section
of Washington.

Unique Scenes in "a Quaint Shop Con-
Quoted by CelestinI-Wu Ting
fang Held in High Esteem by His
Fel1Ow-COuntrymcn in This City.
Comparatively few people in this city.
perhaps. know where the Chinese quarter
is situated. The name given it-CEina-
town-fs in itself misleading, as 1t en-
braces a shabby row of tenements on
Four-and-a-half Street just below Penn
sylvania Avenue This nest of Celestials
is not at all like to the Chinatown of New
York or San Francisco. Nevertheless the
element of the quaint and curious that
seems ever to cling to things Oriental is
to be found here to some extent, and,
while scarcely inviting, a. trip to Wash
ington's Chinatown presents features OF
interest.
The visitor, on approaching from Penn
sylvania Avenue this transplanted morsel
of the East, is confronted with very
prosaic and Occidental looking sign paint
ed on the side wall of the first mansion
to the effect that a gentleman with a
rather outlandish name there deals in
tea and other wares. Entering the store
one notices upon the walls advertise
ments in Chinese characters of red and
SOid- L Htd Oll SItlF6S ciAOhiiu lhC SANSS
of the shop are packages of tea, slippers,
pipes, etc, all distinctly Chinese in APP
pearance with the exception of rows of
cans of pattern familiar in any corner
grocery. Upon examination, however,
one finds that these cans are labeled in
Chinese characters, and bear the names
of firms in Hankow and Canton. Proba-
bly, by this time the proprietor of the
shop, or at all events someone connected
with the establishment in some way, has
glided into the room noiselessly to see
what is wanted. This individual is not
handsome; he is dressed in a loose suit
of dark blue, is smoking a pipe of quaint
design, and eyes you stolidly with no eX-
preston whatever He is capable of be-
ing drawn into conversation, however,
and explains, in reference to the cans,
that they and the labels on them are
made in New York, are the nshipped to
China, are there filled with the delicacies
which appeal to the Celestial palate, and
exported to this country. The contents
of these cans, and of some earthenware
jars which appear TO contain glue, are
such as, in the estimation of the business
like Chinaman, would not be unacceptable
to the depraved taste of the foreign dew
H." Thus there are bamboo shoots-''ver
good remarks the rnerchant-dry gin
ger, candied, and a number of things
which, on account of their names and the
limited English vocabulary of the mer-
chant, must remain enshrouded in mys-
terry.
While carrying on a limited conversa-
tion with the merchant half a dozen other
Cinnamon have made an appearance on
the scene, and these stand together in a
back room watching the would-be pur-
chaser attentively and exchanging re-
marks in their own language. There is a
tea urn in this rear apartment, which
completes the suite on that floor, and the
Cinnamon drink the beverage (which
cheers but does net inebriate" to an ex-
tent which can only be compared to that
of the old lady who so painfully excited
the attention of Tony Weller. The cups
out of which the liquid is drunk are, how
ever very different from the conventional
American teacup, being tiny egg-shelI af-
fairs of Chinese workmanship. The tea
is drunk without milk or sugar, and pos
sesses the delicate aromatic flavor which
can only be obtained by making it by in
fusion. One Of the Cinnamon is quite
aged, with grey hair, and is smoking a
pipe which, for elaborateness of design,
would put TO shame the most groteSque
fantasies of the German meerschaum. 1t
is made of some curious dark wood
lemon wood" says the smoker in very
good English.
Concerning the sale of opium the mer-
chant 2lludes to mysterious drawer
which is only open at night; but mo
smoke here" he explains. Notwithstand
ing the somewhat limited size of the es-
tablishment and the apparent lack of GUS
tom its proprietor says that he deals both
wholesale and retail. There would GER
tainly appear to be a rather dispropor-
.
ingly do nothing but smoke tobacco and
opium and drink tea, but probably the
merchant has his eye on some golden fu-
ture when their services will be in per-
petual demand. as the natives begin to
appreciate the great superiority of Chi
nese merchandise
In the course of a general conversation,
which is rendered somewhat difficult
owing to the merchants limited knowledge
of English and the visitors perfect igno-
rance of Chinese, IL transDires that the
former Is much impressed with the astute-
ness of China's official representative here,
Smart man" says the merchant, refer
ring TO Mr.. WI, and his stOlidity almost
gives way to enthusiasm as he recounts
the sums that his distinguished country
man receives for talking in the various
large cities of this country. He talkee
vely well' he exclaimed. gleefully.
The Chinese are, perhaps, addicted to
brealtfasting late-at all events, the res
taurants of Chinatown do not open busi-
ness until well on In the afternoon. These
establishments, of which there are two in
the little colony, are the reverse of Iuxuri-
Gus. With the exception of a few plain
wooden tables and chairs of the toughest
and cheapest description, and a canvas
sign on the wall, announcing the bill of
fare and the price of each dish, the rooms
are quite bare. The absence of the pro-
prietor or anyone connected with the es-
tablishment is also generally a noticeable
feature. Many of the cold dishes are said
to be very palatable. A chicken dressed
in Chinese style would appear to be a
somewhat elaborate dish, and costs 70
cents. A plate of chop suey. a preparation
of rice and raisins, costs 10 cents. There
are dishes with Chinese names, some
abundantly spiced, and said to call for an
acquired taste.
MYSTERIOUS LOSS OF A CAR.