Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1901-03-09
THE NEW ART JEwEIRy
S"i""s and FabulOusIy Costly Things
Iurned Ont by Master Craftsmen.
From the New York Sun.

FROM the New York Sun.
A new fad in jewelry has slowly been
making its way to favor in recent wears
and the Paris exposition brought il into
something like popularity Fortunately the
expense OF the work. and the fact that II
appeals to the artistic taste more than TO
the canons Of elegance generally current.
promise to keep the fashion from be-
coming fatally common.
The Salique jewelry is perhaps the finest
example of this new work. which Is after
aIi old, for 1t works back to the wonder
ful metal work of renaissance times ana
makes the precious stones merely incl
dental The exhibition OF Rene SaIique.s
work at the exposition was a revelation 10
the host who had known nothing about
him.
This work has been eagerly sought for
IN Europe for years past. but his prices
are fabulous and he does not sell to deal
ers. but works only on special orders. which
II may be his within to accept So up to
the present time, his jewels have been OBJ
tanned only by royal personages or other
illustrfous patrons and their number is
not very great.
Castellaui, in Rome, has had a reputation
for work OF the same general order as Sa-
lique's, although he has achieved nothing
TO equal the Salique Jewels, and a crowd
OF lesser lights have been following the
same path with more or less success.
OF course, the central idea of this jewel
y beauty ana NNCiuSiNenPSS or design.
The masters Of the craft, like Salique often
make the Jewel, whatever il may be, with
direct reference to the appearance and per-
sonality of the woman who is TO wear II.
and this opens up an endless vista OF sug-
gestiye and symbolic possibility.
Then again the jewel may be made mere
ly TO carry out a conception in the mind
of the artist, without reference to the fu-
ture owner. Rare stones are introduced
wherever the design requires their color.
but very often the semi-precious stones
answer the artistic requirements better
than the more costly Jewels and are used
by preference. without thought of the COM
parative cost.
II a patron is willing to put a crowns
ransom Of rubies into an order and Sa-
lique thinks pink topaz or lapis lazuli ac
cords better with his design, the buyer
doesn't get the rubles. Moonstones are par
ticuar favorites with Salique and with
many OF his followers, because they lend
themselves to symbolism and suggestion
without detracting from the effect of the
metal work and design. One of the most
remarkable pieces of this art jewelry ever
turned out was a comb in design OF bats
flying through the filtered light Of moon
stones.
American designers are taking up tho
art Jewel Idea, and new era of eXtrava-
gance in jewelry is evidently at hand. Cor
geous tiaras and stomachers of diamonds
will not do now. My lady must have spe-
cially designed and eccentric jewelry or
which there is no duplicate, which bears
the signature of q master craftsman.
Several of the New York jewellers brought
home quantities Of signed Jewels in unusual
designs, and have sold them rapidly. One
ring for a man, labeled The Heart of the
Oak" and signed by a famous French work
man, was a particularly good specimen.
although 1t hadn't a hint of precious stone
about 1t. The ring was wrought in SEM
blance of bark and bore a strange. satyr-
like head, that at first glance looked mere
ly like the gnarled knot on a limb OF a
tree.
One Chicago woman has taken up this
art Jewel craft with immense success, ana
has orders so far in advance that she says
1t will be impossible for her to promise
ANYTHING before 1893.