The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-03-30

imam ever especially the embroidered
Renaissance and mercerized grenadines
are shown in great variety among the
thin cotton materials for summer gowns
Soft chips and crinoIine straWs which
can be manipulated easily into any
shape are feature of the new spring
millinery.
Squares of cluny lace alternating with
squares Of Jet gallooR, are used for trim
ming silk petticoats, while another dec
GRAFTON is in floral designs OF applique
velvet.
striped materials are in high favor
lust now
There is no end to the bolero. One
sees 1t everywher=in lace, velvet and
embroidery, worn over waists Of all
kinds, and this spring and summer
promise boleros galore in ShirtWaists.
Sometimes the effect is merely simulated
with trimming of lace or embroidery.
while again the bolero is sewed in at the
shoulders and under the arms.
The amethyst and the turquoise are
the favorite stones for jeweled hat pins.
To wear with shirtwaists the studs
are exceedingly pretty, with the single
stones set in gold and with the tiniest Of
safety pins, also with the same stone to
fasten the stock collar In the front and
back.
There is a great diversity in belt
styles this spring; some are several
inches wide and others are so narrow
that they barely hide the skirt band,
but nearly all are made in such a way
in front
Queens purple" is the name of the
very fashionable shade of this royal
color which appears among elegant
spring millinery IN the list of handsome
silks. foulards and the latest importa-
ton of crepe de chine. nuns yelling,
lansdowne and similar silk and wool ma
teriais.
It must be confessed that. even though
one be opposed to the light colors which
are all the rage this season. they grow
upon one after awhile, and the more
sober colors take on a sOmber look in
comparison.
Cut work is still popular as a garniture
The latest style in which it appears both
in cloth and velvet, shows an outlining
Of the pattern with tiny thread Of gold
or chenille.
Printed panne Is much used to trim
cloth gowns As rule it matches the
cloth in its general tone, but has a de-
sign in various shadings.
Much used at the present time for the
garniture OF dreSSy costumes Is lovely
variety of old Flemish lace; it is of a
greyish white tone and rather coarse.
How TO Put on a Shirtwaist-
How many women realize that there is
more than one way in which to put on a
shirtwaist2 Some women have a GER
tain knack in putting on their shirt
waists which gives a chic and becoming
air to even the cheapest and plainest OF
garments, While others may put on the
most expensive and elaborate Of waists
in such slipshod manner that they are
anything but attractive
A writer in the New York World gives
the following advice in regard to don
ming this useful garment that may be Of
benefit to shirtwaist wearers:
woman never looks so trinity
dressed. so altogether clipper as she
does in a shirtwaist that is well put on,
OF 50 slouchy as in one that is badly
put on. and for the sake of those dear
women who for lack Of knowledge or
inspiration have never learned to do the
thing properly I give here a few rules
which if followed to the letter viii guar
antee a s.shirtwaist figure to those
who have dreamed of one, but have here
tof0re had no personal acquaintance
with it.
My method is my own peculiar fnven-
ton, and I have shared the secret with
only a chosen few till now, when my
conscience no longer allows me to hide it
from the feminine world.
First, then. take the corset you are
wearing, a straight front Of course. for
they can be bought now in the cheaper
models as well as the most expensive
and just at the end of the eyelets, al the
bottom of the corset, sew loop of inch
wide ribbon on either side.
Now put on your sl1irtWaist fastening
it with the tiny pearl buttons which
are to be so fashionable this summer.
and tie your stock, taking care to lap 1t
neatly in the back.
Then. with two small safety pins pin
the belt of your shirtwaist at the back
to the loop Of ribbon as tight as you
can stand it without being upcomfort-
horse with too tight check rein.
Now take your hand mirror and turn
around and look at your back Did you
ever get quite that fiat effect before?
between the shouI6ers2 For my own
waists I always have the belt sewed
down just to the side seams and then
hanging free, so that I may pleat the
Of 4faar f-f to c74ff
Smooth the waist down well. then I'M
der the arms and over the hips. and
pin it on each side Then pleat the full
ness left into side pleats, and if you are
thin enough to stand it blouse 1t a little
in front
Now fasten the loose ends Of your
belt, and there you are, warrant you,
with a better shirtwaist figure than you
ever dreamed could be yours
The problem Of how to pin shirt
waist down remained long unsolved to
me. until evolved this method from my
inner consciousness, but had my re-
ward when a friend to whom I had
whispered my secret said to me last
summer: DO you know. the most val
your method Of putting on shirt
waist1"
Partisan Women Object.
Women returning from the other side
are wearing bOdices with rounded belts.
That is. the belts sweep down slightly in
front in an oval form, instead Of run
ming down to a point several inches he
low the waist line. These women say
that the Partisan women have always
looked with disfavor upon the exagger-
atedly long waist line in front, and, al
though they wear the straight front cor
sets, drop the waist but slightly below
the regular line. In preserving a shorter
waist line they secure length of limb.
which is always graceful Empire gowns
with extremely short waists are much
worn on the other side for evening af-
fairs, the gowns frequently supplement d
with short boleros. the bolero fnishe