The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1901-10-27

are exceedingly highly wrought. But far
more numerous are those that are worn be-
meath coat or jacket bodices. y fancy bod
fee for wear with separate skirt-broadcloth
OF velvet. preferably the latter-appears in
this initial picture. 1t was dove gray gran
lite LOuisine, with trimming OF cashmere
velvet banded by a darker velvet, the bands
held by black velvet buttons. Silver braid
was used. too, the illustration indicates.
In the larger pictures are several waists
planned for wear with jacket or coat and
skirt rigs, but even these may be put with
separate skirts, trick of which economic
ers are taking full advantage. Indeed, the
intent 10 use them thus doubtless accounts
for the elabOrateness of some under bod
ices, although when all is said the plain
shirtwaist now cuts very small figure.
The rig now in greatest demand for the
street is the coat and skirt gown. The ma
jority of women favor the short coat for
this purpose, yet some of the latest tailor
models in. the shaggy fabrics show the long
er coats with decided skirts. One of these
suits was gray zibeline, with coat fitting
into the waist line and with rather long and
haring skirts turned back at the corners in
front TO show fancy white lining. A hand
some button fastened these points down as
IT did the white revers at the bust below an
embroidered collar of white linen There is
tendency to do away with the separate
waist so necessary to skirt and coat cos
tunes, by introducing a bodice that is a
short belted coat in effect, except that it
fastens more securely and has choker col
lar and neck finish to make it a complete
waist. This is very good idea for the
woman who doffs her gown soon as she
enters the house, since such bodice is too
warm for house wear, but for general wear
nothing will take the place of the coat and
skirt costume. The current liking for il re-
suits in an abundance OF jaunty short jack
cts, for the longer coats are yet a good
ways from popularity. Three Of these jack
cts appear in the larger pictures. At the
left in the first one is a jacket Of biscuit
ladies' cloth, with finish of stitching and
tabs OF the goods. Opposite this is a black
camers-hair cheviot. with reyers and cuffs
OF black and white striped velvet. At the
right in the third picture is a sapphire blue
broadcloth trimmed with black taffeta
folds. You see, though the search for new
bolero features has been well nigh constant
for years, downright novelty and elabo-
rateness are not now essentials to complete
stylishness.
Velvet and corduroy I'm every form and
color are leading fabrics, and velvet gowns
and coats arc abundant. The former are
trimmed with handsome fur and with lace
outlined with fur. Corduroy velvets are
recommended for clOaks and for gowns, as
well, as they do not crush like plain velvet
and cordurdys and velveteens are employed
for shrtwaists. The fancy-striped velvets
used for trimming are very beautiful in col
oring, and are combined with satin-faeeG
cloths, lighter wool fabrics and silks, which
in plain colors, are coming in again for en-
tire gowns. Among the silks is the granite
Louisine and granite crepe de chine, botf
beautiful in texture and coloring Silks bro.
caded with velvet are fine materials fol
handsome separate waists. Then peau d.
sole, satin Louisine, crepe de chine anC
tsffeta make up eharmingly. Other ma.
terials for waists are the fancy black and
white striped silks and silks with velvet
dots in black and white. In white the
French flannel and cashmere waists are
very stunning, trimmed with embroidery
or tucks and French knots. Pale blue, pink
yellow and black are the corors of the EN-
hroidery.
Buttons are restored to an important