Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1901-11-30
STYLES IN MEMS DRESS
SHORT JACKETS AND BAGGY TROUs-
ERs TO GO.
The Decided Military Cut VIII Be Adj
hered to In COats-The Correct
Things i'm Evening Wear.

From the Haberdasher.
The average man is not inclined to take
to anything in the way Of wearing apparel
that he imagines is unbecoming and which
he knows is uncomfortable. Nor Is the
busy everyday man of our modern civtliza-
ton at all likely to pay any attention TO
departures or introductions in apparel that
to his way of looking at things are I'M
necessary and uncalled for. Man has al
ways shown a most marked leaning toward
anything that promised to give him bodily
comfort, and in all things, l might say
clothes particularly, comfort had to be as
sured or man rebelled, and the innovation
became mere memory.
For the past year or two we have been
indulging in some very peculiar fashions.
The youth of the country started the fad
for military jackets and peg-top trousers.
When elderly men followed the new style
it became ridiculous, and now the tailors
announce that their best trace WIN nase
none of the short jacket and baggy trousers
The very high collars and the very loose
fitting suits, and the shoe string cravats
are to be succeeded by styles modelled on
more rational lines. Collars must be of
medium height, that is, comfortable height,
and all clothing must fit naturally. Ihere
is nothing SO annoying to the average
American as an ill-fitting suit, and the
vogue for the extra wide and large gar
new mode we will not plunge to the othef
extreme, but will take up moderate effects
Fit, style and set will be sartorial essen
tials.
For Business Wear.
Cloths for business and lounging suits
show very refined, subdued coiorings, the
gray and black combinations being by far
the most popular. The dark grays show al
most invisible broken lines or plaids or
checks. Dark browns are also good, and
there are some slightly green's. I think
that the promire.lt colortngs will be es-
chewed and that suits made up OF the most
quiet effects will be the most popular For
formal day wear black worStedS and chey-
lots as well vicunas will be the proper
fabrics. Fancy waistcoatings will not be
very popular unless in the very quiet col
orings and effects. Trousers for wear with
frock coats will be of cheviot or worsted
and only the neat narrow stripes will be
recommend by the best tailors.
The d.. cd military shoulders and the
well-define,. waist lines will be avoided in
jackets, but adhered to in coats. The new
coats Of the frock, swallowtail and cuta-
way forms will have square shoulders but
they will not be built up as high and square
as were last seasons. In oyercoats the
mode favors very long coats. the Chester
field for both day and evening wear being
strong favorite.
In jackets as well as in cutaway coats
the front cutaway or slope will be quite
away. There is a difference Of opinion
among tailors on the correct coat for even
ing dress. Some recommend the Inverness,
while others recommend the Chesterfield, or
one of the new surtout or skirted coats.
The covert coat will be as popular as ever
for fall wear. There will be few changes
In this coat. and practically none that will
be very noticeable.
The evening suit may either be made Of
fine dress worsted, cheviot or vicuna. The
worsteds, however, are to be preferred. The
coats will be made practically the same as
last years, the emily change being in the
style of the shoulders, which will not be
built up so squarely as the old model The
peaked Iapels will be the most popular and
will be faced to the buttonholes with silk.
The waistcoats may be single-breasted IL Of
the same material as the coat, or double
breasted II Of different material
The white waistcoat will have buttons
covered with the material of which
the waistcoat is made The trousers may
have plain seam or one finished off with
neat black silk braid. prefer the perfect
ly plain styles, in fact, anything in the way
Of ornamentation on an evening dress suit
is undeniable evidence of bad taste
Hnberdashery for Evening Wear.
There is no question as to what will be
the correct haberdashery for wear with the
evening suit. The shirt will be perfectly
plain and should be laundered SO that
| neither the bosom or cuffs shine. Two
studs, either solitaire pearls or mother-of-
| pearl buttons will show in the waistcoat
| opening. The collar should be straight
| stander, just meeting in front, or one Of the
very slightly 'poked" styles. The tie should
| be of white lawn, or linen, or brilliantine,
| and Of the square end batswing type. In
| the link cuffs which should be either square
cornered or slightly rounded. wear mother
| of-pearl link buttons. The half-hose should
| be of plain black silk, self clicked, and
| the shoes should be OF the new narrow toe
4 ~
| Pumps will be made with narrow toes and
will have wide rib silk bow at the in
step. The gloves should be Of fine chew
| rette Of a light white-pearl shade, with
| the wrist. Mufflers should be Of plain
black, or Of black, with self figures.
Dinner Jackets will be made of the same
material as dress coats and will be about
pockets, or they may be made without
| pockets. The collar will be of the shawl
roll model. faced with silk. With this coat
wear a black single-breasted waistcoat, g
| plain white shirt, standing collar, and g
black silk tie. The shirt jewelry may be
| Of dull finished gold.
! The formal day coat will be the double
! breasted frock. The new single-breasted
frock has not as yet won that position
which would entitle 1t to unqualified in.
| dorsement. 1t is as yet in the fad stage
| and I do not think that 1t will figure to any
| extent this coming season. The double.
| breasted 1rOck IS the 1aVOrlto, ana like
| the evening coat divides honors with nc
other style. The new frocks will be made
! Of unfinished worsteds, and the lapels will
be silk faced to the buttonholes. They will
| close with four buttons, and the skirts will
be full enough to insure leg freedom The
| waistcoats, il Of the same material as the
| coat, may be cut either single or double
| breasted. Waistcoats of washable duck ir
the white and buff materials will be double
breasted and will close with mother-of.
| pearl buttons. The trousers should be Of 6
| dark striped worsted.
Collars and Cravats.
With the frock coat the poke collar and
| white shirt is worn. The cravat may be
either square or an imperial of dark OF
light shade. For weddings and forma
| functions the white cream and suede shades
are proper. When the frock Is worn tt
| church or to any affair Of less forma
nature than day wedding the wing cola,
may be worn. and the cravat may be OF
black. or Of any Of the new light effects
! Under no circumstances should vari-colore6
| cravats be worn with the frock coat.
| The incoming wing collar will mt