The Yale expositor., 1901-09-27
The New Tailored Skirt

! The street skirts have reached the
extreme There will be the unusually
long, trailing skirt, slender, tight-fit-
ting and graceful, that will bring
about a revival of the scientific mi
crobe lecture, and there will also be
short skirt of even length all around
that to be exactly proper will hang
just two inches from the floor.
Cloth buttons, rows and rows of fine
stitching, straps, applique of the same
material as the skirt, cut in conven-
tional scroll pattern and heavily
stitched, will be the only trimming
used for these new skirts, but as all OF
the new models are done in two or all
Of these styles the effect is one of par
adoxical elegance, elaborate with the
skirt-stitched trimming and simple be-
cause of the absence of braid, gilt and
lace.
The very newest models are made
with five or seven narrow cores. The
center gore is often set in with panel
the bottom ending at the seams of the
front gore, or else it is produced by
yoke in back and across the hips that
is cut from the same piece as is the
front gore, and is outlined with
stitching, which begins in back and
runs along the edge of the yoke, and
then down to front seams to the end
of the skirt.
Tucks and broad plaits will do away
entirely with darts of any sort Nearly
all of the skirts are set on yokes of
some description or yokes are outlined
by stitched straps, or the cloth ap-
pliqued in the scroll design. The
street skirts, both long and short, fit
very tight over the hips and to the
knees, where they are finished in eth
er circulaE Spanish flounce or flare
seams. The straps and applique are
ornamented with large cloth buttons.
The habit back is as decidedly gone
as is the pointed waist line. Small in
verted plaits give scant fullness to
the back. One plait is more popular
but two and three are a mark Of the
seasons newness. A graceful style for
a very long skirt shows ten small
plaits turned in and held down by
stitched straps reaching just across the
plaits and finished with buttons, says
the Chicago Evening Post.
The circular flounce is the result of
the ruffied summer skirt. It finishes
the very smartest models. 1t is a
graduated hounce always, and is often
double or even triple It is usually
very high in back and narrow In front,
often narrowing to nothing, where the
front gore reaches to the floor. This
flounce gives the fluffy effect about the
feet, the same as does the rufIled skirt.
All of the short skirts are made with
tight Innings, and the trailing ones are
made with drop skirts.
The colors and materials are as ex-
tTeme as the styles. The zibeline or
canvas weaves, share popularity with
broadcloth and Venetian cloth, which
is really a light weight broadcloth.
The canvass weave is coming from
London with colored borders for
sleeves, collars, fronts of coats and
the bottom skirts. There is green
with lavender border, red ending
fancifully in tan and blue or brown
with tan.
But the very smartest things for the
fall skirts will be the light shades in
the canvas weave, or the old-fashioned
basket" cloth. There are beautiful
Prussian blues mixed so with white
as to be very light and show almost
a satin CLEAN; there is olive green that
merges almost to yellow in the same
way: there is glorious gray that
shows up pearl; mode shade that Is
really cream colored, and then there is
white, pure white, to be made the
same as the others, trimmed only in
stitches and cloth applique. These
very light shades are distinctly Pa
risian. Just now women are buying
everything white in Paris, from their
shoes to their belts, and from their
belts to their hats.