Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1901-03-21
Perfumes.

The most surprising feature OF the art
Of perfume manufacture is the TACT
that the ingredients that so TO make
I'D the most delicate odorS are ire
ouentIy themselves as ill-smellins as
pne could imagine.
A visit to perfuner's establish
went results in interesting informa-
ton. rather than interesting sights;
for the process itself of making per-
fumery is fairly free from complica-
lions. There are few odd devices re-
o1ired and no intricate machinery
Indeed the whole task might roughly
be described as simply one OF mixing,
fi!tcring and bottling. But simple
though it may appear from the OBJ
servers standpoint, the work is one
that requires as much painStaking
care and skill as the druggists COM
rounding of prescription. The chief
interest. however. to the uniformed
visitor is the discovery of what the
ingredients are that combine to pro-
duce these delicate odors; and conse-
auently the laboratory and the store
room contain fully as much that is
novel and interesting as the factory
proper.
It is in the laboratory that all of the
fine effects are worked out: that one
strange and disquieting substance is
mixed with another until the most de-
lightful results are attained; and here
that the real art of the pe"fumer IS
called into play. Incidentally it is here
that the bottles and parcels of the most
villainous looking substances are
~ ~ fn,- \,
scarcely an exception. the cost of these
queer stuffs most of which are i'm
ported from foreign countries. is some
thing surprisingly high The rule to
the unsophisticated appears to be, the
worse the odor the higher the price.
The perfumer's art has been likened
to that of the painter. and, in fact. the
siinilc serves we'll to illustrate the ma
ture of his work. Just as the artist
mikes his pigments and tones his mix
ture with first one color and then an
other. 50 the perfumer experiments
with his different odors until a desira-
tle effect is secured. Just as there are
some colors that clash, 50 there are
doors that will not blend and harmon
iZe: while on the other hand. as sug
geSted, several disagreeable doors com
bIncd will frequently produce an
agreeable result.
The art of the perfumer is that
which knows what doors will blend and
what will not, a knowledge which is
acquired only by long practice and
careful study. The efficient operator
can work out not only these pleasant
effects but he can smell out" the
different ingredients of any perfume
that is given him to test. 1t is for
this reason that the perfumcr has no
way Of preventing limitations Of his
wares. the only safeguard he has being
II copyrighted label and name the
perfume itself can be reproduced.
provided Of course one is able 10 Sc
cure the constituents after they have
been learned.
The basis of all finer grades Of per-
fumery is essential oil of some flower.
ard it is this ingredient that generally
cuts the most conspicuous figure in
the bill of expenses Of the perfume
manufacturer. The most famous
essential oil. and probably the most ex-
pensive. is the well-linown. though
seldom encountered. altar Of roses
which is made in Bulgaria and Asia
Minor. There is an imitation of this
essence in n distillation from the ger
anium that is cultivated in immense
fields in Algeria, but the spuriousness
can easily he detected. The genuine
article, however, oddly shaped cans OF
which can be found in rows at the
Hilbert plant. is made from roses. and
it's cost ut retail is in the neighhor-
hood Of $1,000 a quart.
There are two methods Of securing
TIE altar or otto. which is the essential
perfume component Of flowers. one by
distillation and the other by absorp-
ton. and the former is the ono en-
ployed by the famous makers of the
altar of roses. The roses are picked
early in the morning when the dew is
on them. and the flowers placed in
stills. The essential oil. being volatile
is taken up with the steam and later
rises in Globules in the condenser
where it is skinned off the surface OF
the water. The residue is rose water
The fact that 1000 roses are needed t6
secure a liquid ounce of oil, explains
readily why its cost is 50 extremely
high. The cans in which it is received
in this country are of timed copper
covered with heavy Jacket OF felt
and they resemble small army can
teens in shape.
Essential oils from other flowers arc
secured in the same way. and all are
expensive. dependent upon the rarity
of the flower and the ease with Whicf
the oil is extra cted. For example. The
essential oil Of cloves is readily pro
durable and compare lively ineXpan
sive. while that &c v;o'ets comes con
Sderab!y higher. "A dram sometimes
costing over SEQ. Some Of these dis
citations are made in France anC
other European countries.
The cnflucraEc or absorption process;
referred to. is on quite a different prin
CDle. though equally expensive. The
essential oils are absorbed by anima
fat which is spread on trays unit
thoroughly saturated with the odor5 o
the flowers. and then shipped to tn
porfumerS in large metal pals. Th'
absorption Of odors by butter in an ic,
chest will serve as Il homely ilustra
ton of this method. To extract odor
from the fat. the pcrfumer simpl,
washes the latter with alcohol. which
having a greater affinity for the es
scntial oils. in turn abSorbs them from
the Sa turated grease. The removal o