The sun., 1901-03-31
FOR MIDNIGHT SUPPERS.
LOBSTERS AND WELSH RABBITS FAR
~ THE LEAD.
The Arm, That lnyadcs the chop Houses and
AH.Nixht Restaurant when a Large Part
OF New York. Population Il Asleep Home
Treatment Of the Lobster

Treatment Of the Lobster
When a large part of ManhAttan's popu-
llt'on is Snugly tucked in bed ENJOYING a
before IL beauty sleepy an army Of midnight
diners march upon the various restaurants
Of the town to partake Of their most i'm
port1nt meal in the twcnty-four hours. This
throng Includes the after-theatre crowd
which changes its personnel night after
night. and the great number Of New Workers
whose professions, voc0tions and pleasures
have altered their sleeping and waking hours
from those customary with normal human
beings
Theatrical people are largely in evidence
Actors, managers. orchestra leaders are
always represented and there is nm important
percentage OF brokers, many Of whom now
continue their Wall Street dealings at night
in the fashionable uptown hotels There il
sprinkling Of gamblers and Of the sport
ing fraternity whose ways and means of
livelihood are more or less enshrouded in
my ystcry. although their clothing and appear
ance are always Of the finest Then there
ar. girls from choruses who are getting
their first view Of the towns night life under
the escort Of some downy-lpped boy or else
Of some aged rounder.
midnight supper crowd Their appetites
are all similar Tie same kinds Of food
appeal to them with unfailinR popularity.
The most important restaurants make spe..
Cialltics Of certain dishes on their bills OF
fare. the excellence Of which they are Ia
nous for, and rarely do they make any change
IN the menu except when the market ush"r-
In some new dainty in the way OF fish or game
These sp"Clalties. with steaks and English
chops are the flvorite food of the people
"a Ire 4 hgr llnph
their days with dinner At midnight,
Lobster is the king Of foods At the all-night
restaurants ~ much so that II has almost
Loaf its reputation as a home dish Az the
nashy chop houses lobster il served every
uight cooked In all sorts of ways. thousands
Of the, shell hsh being consumed be-
the morning Al these places lobsters are
cooked far better than at the big Firth aN-
eHIc hotels for the French chef rarely mas
ter- the arr of broilug this iish, although
his bi-uirs. salads ard pate. may be per
f.ction And the lobster broilcd is the dish
that appeals with mighty force To the palate
II upper Broadway In the hp.r- when the
other half Of the world j. ''l'"y
What mysterious fa-rln IL the fish has
for the midnight aIpetli" i i 81 .''lN u dt-
tcrrine It, fayOr and exc ii,g'c can
for itS und,inE popularity, f"r II never !Js"H
n favor and j. served night alter uis u
rauy Of the regular customers OF t."N"
eating houses. never abating in it, charm
rh" niI.t'ritive value Of the flesh Of the lob
.t'r compared with beef re standard IL
tb. rowaindar brIny sLeJl ana waste phus-
rhords according 10 authorities exists
IA large quantities n lie lobster bu' none
nr these facts would seem 70 indicate any
rao.nn WHY tIs N.h should stand at the
bcaJ ~ tbn ,,itni fh, stlt,uer lis,
Welsh rabbit which follows The lobster
.'rd.rad together Hith Ir4 more popular rival
,nt although dysr.rtics viii hear this with
r'rr'r il rNy be recorded that habitual lob
.tcr GATOR. IlIph M the rreynlsnt iden that
.itier Of ticse foods served -eI arately or
,,e,b.r i iriurious They saw that the
.yos,asi md un.t lr.a,,'inSs .lpep may be
irJ,,,,J a.. eo,ip, he com h nation ilsi before
rntiring and that the OCCASIONAL feaster upon
lrhs,er ia tbe only ono Who i,nds tho food
unwbnlesomc
"',r Thnro nas cru-ider,ble agitation some
m''o wan an ,ba sWrrsct n, The crtielrv or
-riit,,ng = Iobstpr for The so1called live broil-
M Troccss woman cooRug TEACHER,
!, oJJ iIat n" one had cyar questioned the
,,L,d 20 ,lunyinp n liz. lobster hend frs,
MA boIing water she Insisted thai a lobster
.rIi, d"yn the b1ck wa4 Killed ult as quickly
w. nn, runged int hniIing Uater If
q, .,,,'itio,, is rnrsgrlIv done the don m
T.. ,ontnnenus IN either case
S,ili g.,, n"r,nm vii hn fopnd who will
,orFnrr' his nraration and II IL on tins NO
lp',, ,orr,,. tb,t hrn,lsJ lo', ,star is so.rarely
,o,,,d or,,,.d =, 3,,," tnil.t L,,b dealers now
Slid th" live lohairra before sending thcn
F..r lr. a =
,lr I,,,, Ir,.a,,, nr'r.-it, form kitchen killing
'"Iy, lt.Isr ,,n. ,Lep ia Tia,,i Iipnr he
I,i ,I,I tIn rnsI .il. T., ma 10 ana
L,i I,ni,. Az, l,,r ., .tcnI,. lnv. llaz, from
,,G ~ t thrc,-,Iartnr. ,f nm hour n
,I.,,,o ,,ol r,nra ,or, ia r.uIirod
onJ rt'r" ',nnJ ipaa ~ wr,n tIa baivsJ ioh.
&',lr & " - -, I.,,,rg 80 a. Iu, n,ror .,
a " a. r.,.,.,' "a t,'rr,,, m, In,ti in,
u,t, Lci ,Isci nd vbrn tho rnnaf
III, ID. t..,,., IL, -,,i ,n ha ,urr.I and
en' ~ nun" gr r ,nr ,,ri..,, . "a" u" '""e anu
Th * NM, t .or,,J -, n ,,,co vorv
w .Sn ''ts' u 80 n'' ~ ,,p' w " '''h. 'i,
~, p ,, ~ 80 ,',,I,,t ,,,t,mr ~ usr,iiv
sal aIu p,IP"i' ~" ,'''L'Hi nt' o,,I ~ a.
"N,f.'".' WIZ I" ~ p'irn ...IiVi gu" ,,n,,
Wa' .,o.' ~ .' ,',,,' u,i,h
N"l,''',' r ~lIur "IH 'pi'"l' ''.,,,p W, NJ
I""h'' ~ I'PI'I' ."ln ~ "'I a, LII III n
.M" W, ~ ,i' o,ed InI sinr N,,h
-prcmHF 81 >"tNlnR cog '""rd ionS''I WIN
u lar,ai" T'n'" my tn.H ,a "'NrGl ,Su ~ ,ho
I"'N "Nn 'V'H7' I"' u!lI'' 80. ~. ~ Nv Wv.
io',t"r~ mail uncS ar" rr"t"rn ,lr, are
"'""N w n10.uE Nt',u VIII I"i hn' nl
hour "r nntI ~" shrl r"4ueRI Ihel are
p"rI'rUN '"il ana 'h"H plh'rl on te IN.
-rl't Tor serving. on 'old dl,h WIN I"aI
II fresh l"tl1c" The 'ariar| sauce is an
ordinary Ha}"nnalS', VIVA Hp"N mlh''u
brNllI"d foods are especially sTetrili 70
the midnight palate trlIl"d ana deNlllnu
bones. rarely ordered at nihcT parts OF IN"
dar, are served for the all-nIghters IN puhn-
carved roast> Of beef and always have much
II tho meat adhering 10 them They are
hroil"d ~ verv HOT oven until the meat
crsps and n dcvilled sauce poured over them
There nro ~ many OF these irvil!rd sa ices
bNt me r"-liIt seems 10 ne Sa 'sIatloIN IN uI'
are mixed Nith olive oil or melted butter