The Republican journal., 1901-01-10
RYWAYS IN SPAIN.

nt-gFNiBER Ia i'"o' Aooooio VI Nv
p' we determined to shirk the
foOSs sssina scenery along the southern
a'r' ~ the Pyrenees by taking night
U'' an tbe return from Saragossa to
I"' ,,.,,iterranean. Besides we were as
lD' that the valiant Knights of the
sai' are no more liable to sally forth
h''' .,ajr mountain lairs in the hours
-i'' illness than in broad day; not so
81 IL, fact, because in case of resist
"'' +bere is less danger in daylight of
'' ..ar mixed up in the melee and
E'''' -.og each other instead of the pas
'' Perhaps the real reason of
,,,s that we were glad of any ex-
nhieh salved our conscience for
,a,y few more hours of overdue
r., >aragoSsa-one OF the most
..-,. -,ristically interesting of Spanish
49,. .oueh seldom visited by tourists.
.mbIe and shadowy streets,
..r .,eH to be haunted by ghosts OF
,.... qad medieval Spaniards, you
ndless and varied panorama of
..,.. usures. costumes and occupa-
.- Du the sidewalk, sheltered by a
.,. arcade whose columns in long
..-..nfI.,trS embellished some Roman
llo-em mosque, sits the public
-......c IteI- a most important char
-a 1I spain. with his fohos and
..rrl.s OF quilts, precisely as in Don
..-Eot-s lay True, most of his time
..,er- a the congenial occupation Of
tms1utAing: but occasionally you see
rr rorug over lengthy legal scrolls
ri. ot MYSTERIOUS signs and abbreva-
-an. tum he is composing letters of
hi,r-ss of friendly duty, for grave
scel m.a and women, who stand wait
nar.1a Ike their Y at the bottom. Often
..-ts Is uditing tender billet-doux for
.a, ml damsels to their lovers; orper-
r.rr0e the same service, with more of
r.e-Au'e and wealth of adjective, for
mwtFut cavaliers to their sweet
,tar
finder taese crumbling arches in the
g-5 wight of the morning dainty
vrr r5s jp to early mass, rosary and
a.,>7 l hand. each followed close by
nsvc4aat duenna, to carry the prayer
III. sad keep the beaux away. Later
day. files of ill-drilled soldiers
m. ruau these narrow streets, fill
p- .tu irom wall to wall, while pc
le. ,cUrry into the nearest door
re~ jWlQ Dlare of martial music and
rsre lowing of the national colors.
r-t comes a string of donkeys,
rns- tUdens crowd the space and
mr pavements, again showing
.+i to the wall and provoking
defense with canes and UNI
Spanish swear words. The
.l. i.- t5 Of the cake-vender rendS
't joItaS, Tortas Que buenos
M> aHentes, Cahentitas." In
aH -.uuS sound the cries of fish
wT Nu neWs-men, the mournful
0l the beggars, and the insistent
@l,o, 1ttery ticket peddlers proclaim
Inc tla result of the latest drawing at
N0u and exporting their fellow-citi-
W.ra uu.ate the shining example of
.r M'prize winner. A flock of
@i, -l by d keeper armed with
'r ltlaj crook, halts in front of
H.. rsdence and a Slattern house
2.. u- ont to coquette with the
aei while he milks the animals
-t -oIrd a time-hOnored custom
"HH #moves all suspicion of prev
m, r iu that convenient product of
@ Western civilization, the pump.
IeOitaf.ou comes to sudden end, or
aler ~tPonement and the goats are
-Ea ven into side street, while
s'-' man and woman in sight removes
-s LII or falls upon her knees; for the
-l5 lg of a silver bell announces the
s4.Hatl Of sloW-moving lines of men,
SING lighted candles and smoking
Afse While in the midst are four
''i+alants UNFOLDING canopy, beneath
1-a walks priest in full canonicals,
'a'nc Nu Magestad Sacramentado''
Its mission OF consolation to some
passing soul.
fiesrotIy the throng leaves off its
.aais TO- laugh at the exhibition of a
G'4rd hull-hghter who has lost leg
'lf exercise of his noble profession.
us -H1 sons assist him,-one person
'Ag tae toro by wearing a huge mask
VIII Aons branching wide like Texas
'Ft' HE other playing all parts, from
'll.o 10 caehetoro, from trumpeter to
@Haading spectators. The father, ar
N7 10 altered finery that once figured
arena Of the Plaza de Toros, hops
"'ll as nimbly as his crutch will allow
49V pIanting the darts in cork
"NFeLed to the forehead of the "bull''
anil Sow giving the final thrust with
Me flourish of a practiced espada, to
-' imminent peril of his sons inside.
peIformance over, the audience
~F' away Just before the hat comes
~i9. The solutions, carrying rations
ar SenHnels at the city gates, march
...t-. nn: the heggar returns to his