New-York tribune., 1901-02-03
CHINESE RESTAURANTS.
THOSE UPTOWN BECOMING INCFA,AS-
INGLY POPULAR WITH 30
HEMIAN'' CLASSES.


appearance in uptown districts. The tawdry
outward decorations of red and blue lights and
huge gilt Chinese characte's are in every case
the same. The same, too, are the unattractive
entrances the walls decorated with coIored
pictures of pretty Chinese girls and marvellous
specimens of landscapes, the little tables covered
with white oicIoth. the general dilapidation OF
the establishment. Nothing about them seems
attractive. and yet these places thrive and their
number increases with astonishing rapidity.
The reason is not far to seek if one is at al
familiar with the facts. There several
characteristics of the Chinese restaurant which
recommend it highly to certain classes and
seem to indicate that its popularity is not a
mere fad
REALLY CHINESE.
In the first place. it should be understood that
most of these places really what they are
supposed to be. eating houses. carried on under
Chinese management. The cooks are invariably
true Celestials. and in only few cases are the
proprietors Americans The food is prepared
therefore. according to the most approved meth
ods of the Middle Kingdom with the result that
In eheapness and savoriness Gf you like it it
can easily outclass similar places run by Aneri-
can cooks. The Chinese is a master of the art
OF making palatable dishes out of next to
nothing or rather. a little of everything. Not
even the French cook can rival him. The in
Il
of the dairy lunch counters are thus escaped By
frequenters Of these restaurants Moreover. in
spite of appearances. The food is prepared in an
extremely ceanly manner No one is debarred
| from entering the kitchen. and visit thither
sends back with renewed appetite to the
Untidy eating room- So many who. while pos
sessed of a small share OF this worlds goods,
stIll affect "spOrtiness frequent the restaurant
for it's cheapness and grow to enjoy the high
favored dishes
There is also free and easy atmosphere
about the Chinese eating house which attracts
many wouId-be "I;ohemians." well a
goodly share of class below the lowest grades
OF the city's many graded Bohemia Visitors
lo,I about and talk and laugh loudly. When tha
waiter is wanted some one enits a shriIl vel
which brings answering whOop from the
kitchen. followed sooner later by a Httlj
Chinese at a jog trot. Any who feels Hke
it may stroll into the kitchen and try IittIey
pids:n English on the cook. The proprietor
Will teach nybody use the chopsticks and
roar with laughter over the failures of the
novice Every body does he or she pleases
within certain very elastic bounds. The limit is
reached sooner in some places than in others.
for while some of the houses are. before mid
night at least perfectly well conducted. others
are Of more than questionable respectability.
1t is curious and interesting to note that under
American management the tone of these places
is lower than when the Chinese are in sole
control
DOWNTOWN PLACES THE BEST.
These new uptown places not good,
either in a moral or culinary way. those
down in Chinatown. 1t is usual to speak as i
Mott and PeIl SITS the city's sink ot
niquty and they are in some respects, but
there are Chinese restaurants in the neigh
bOrhOOd as dsreputable as one or two uptown
The clientele Of the downtown places is above
suspicion, a rule. Chinese drop in for their
meals. and dwellers from uptown come either
from curiosity or because they have learned 70
like good Chinese cooking. Uptown the bills OK
fare are more limited. 'Yockaman. chop
suey" and "ehowman' are the pieces de ress-
tance. They answer the purpose. certainly. FOR
% cents worth of some kinds of chop sUey.
served with rice. will make a tOOthsome dish for
two people. Tea is served free of charga. and
the quantity is not limited. But no one should
Judge the Ceestials culinary skill by these Up
town houses
Many of the guests in these restaurants come
regularly. Frequently and women come
with pals TO buy the food and take il home
Negroes in disprGDOrtiOuatey large num-
bers. They To like the Chinese, and. in
deed. the noise in the kitchen reminds one Of
the similar condition of Southern kitchens under