The Savannah morning news. (Savannah, Ga.) 1900-current, 1901-09-01

fare warrants her continued fidelity to
! the old customs. There can be no doubt
| that society in Japan is disfgured by
many crying abuses. abuses not capa-
BILE of being cured by any simple rem
edy. The only effective medicine is to
| be found in radical reform OF fam
| lily life, and that cannot be effected
without an improvement in the status
of women
A famous living artist-a great au-
thority on what is peculiarly the study
and aim of art, Beauty-has been
heard to maintain that women of our
generation have quite uncanny power
! of altering themselves for the over
! throw and enSlavement of their victim,
man. If it be true at all, it is prob
able they always had that power, and
| almost certain they never let it lapse
| from want of using it. And certainly
when we look round ait the pretty Eng
lish girls of this present year it seems
| as if il were true. What is true as
| that the type seems to have completely
| changed.
| Some eighty years ago. says the Lon
| don Daily News. a famous chaperou,
used to lay down as the condition of
| certain triumph that girl should
| have eyes. Other points of beauty went
for nothing or for little. If she had
| eyes she would do, and by do" that
much requisitioned, chaperon meant
! that she was sure to capture a desira-
BILE husband. And the painters of those
days showed us what sort were the
eyes that did all the mischief. They
were not demure, or provoking, or
flashing; they were simply large, lazy,
languorous, and generally blue.
There was nothing ''unholy" in the
expression of the eyes; 1t was only in
the color: they were essentially in
genue eyes. Lady Hamilton had them,
but Romney managed generally so TO
deepen them with shadow that you
never realized the color as blue. Now,
with this beauty of eyes, and especial
ly of blue eyes, came the beauty of
complexion, the healthy pink and white
of the late Georgian, and even the
early Victorian era. We have but to
turn to any portrait of that time to see
that the oval face, "the blue eye dear
and dewy, and the infantine sweet air
of her" were what the painter knew
his sitter would expect.
Then came the change. Rossetti, so
to speak, discovered threats, Du Maui
rier made us look at chins, Hazlitt sang
the praises of pallor, passion-pale pal
| Tor eyes were forgotten or overlooked
| and regularity was unnecessary to
| noses. Figures became long and an
| gular. dress ignored figure and changed
| to drapery. and the whole type altered.
| Burne-Jones, Rossetti, and Du Maurier
| seemed to have between them fashion,
| ed a new kind of beautiful woman.
| The portraits of the seventies record
| the changing fashion and it was part
| of it that the age of beauty was
! thought to come later in the life of
woman. The type passed to exagger-
| alton in the aesthetic craze, but, all the
l11-fw
! pallor ruled us, and eyes and complex
| ion went for little or nothing.
But the reaction was inevitable and
| not long delayed. 1t has come already.
| Women have again uncannily changed
themselves for the destruction of man.
( The Rossetti type is disappearing and
| gradually giving place to two other
! types, which indeed have little In
| common. One may frankly be called
the Romney type. The hair is brown
and curly, the face is short, the nose
| is slightly upturned, the corners of the
| mouth turn up a little, too. The only
word of praise which you know would
be inapplicable is "dignified." 1t is a
soubrette kind of beauty, captivating.
provocative. domestic, certainly not
! over intellectual, with no great ten
dency to literature of art, winsome,
and conscious of it's irresistibility. You
| see it just now largely leavening all
| classes of English society. There is
nothing of the Grande Dame about it.
Can you fancy one of the Rossetti-Du
Maurier type beauties ever STOPPING to
conquer, ever descending to the bar
| maid, and yet remaining Miss Hard
castle? You will see the type all
through London to-day, in ladies, in
| shop girls, in servants, a type very at
| tractive for it's healthy, lovable come
| Illness. Romney gave it to us for our
admiration, and the London hairdresser
has helped most girls more or less to
come under II. The short locks with
the curls support the curves of the
retrousse nose, give zest and piquarcy
| to the impertinence of the face, and
| give to the whole type it's provocative
| charm. 1t certainly is not a refined
| kind. The face is broad, fat, white.
The nose is rather shapeless. The ears
are rather large and decidedly ugly.
The mouth has little form in it's lines,
| no f1rmneSS when it closes, little ex
preston when it lies open. The roll of
that back hair accentuates all these
defects, and brings many individuals.
really unlike. apparently under the
same type. 1t wont last.
But there is another form of face
which we have begun to see latterly
which is a type and which has come
to stay It's beauty is more or less
that of the early Victorian type. The
| eye here has for it's essential a natural
outlook. 1t does not beg the charity
Of notice, it does not care for it, but
enjoys itself in the world, and has it's
beauty from it's pleasure. The bridge
of the nose now returns to its normal
Importance. 1t is seen as that of the
delicately lifted aquiline
Du Maurier thirty years ago annexed
| the high bridge. accentuated it's de-
| fects. and made it the special preserve
| of the dowager Duchesses. The ugli-
ness of the exaggeration has now pass
ed away. The delicate aquiline has a
| beauty of its own, especially when with
| IL comes in once more, the large eye
that has room for a large lid. This
| type has also the charm of complexion.
a wholesome red and white, cheeks that
can blush simultaneously, a face that
| ignores the surface of powder and the
] tir,t Of TILL. ..Ii