Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1901-06-27
PORTALS NEW YORKLETTER.

Special Correspondence of Gazette and Journal.
New York, June 20.-Fifth Avenue
and Broadway are crowded these fine
days, for women are taking advantage
of the cool days to come into town TO
prepare for their trip abroad. We see
them, too, at the smart cafes. BY the
by, speaking OF going abroad or any
where on pleasure tour, few women
Know how to dress for such occasions.
They are apt to think that any costume,
no matter how old, will do to wear on
the steamer. But such is not the case.
There are 80 few places where wemen's
wearing apparel is more conspicuous
than on the deck of steamer. 1t is a
mistake to take too MANY dresses to
wear on the ship, but two cloth skirts,
at least, are essential. One should be-
made to escape the ground; the other
the regulation rainy day length. One
jacket can be made to do service for
two skirts, If 1t may be necessary.
Great care should be exercised in re-
gard to the hanging Of the skirt and
its proper fastening, either in the back
or at the side of the front. The walk
ing skirt can be built with the popular
fitted flounco finished with q stitched
band of the same material. The skirt
is lain in plaits in the back; or it can
be laid in deep side plajts, the plaits
confined at the hips by rows of stitch
ing which form yoke. The stitching
can be applied in straight lines or IN
scallops. All of the skirts built of
cloth are hung over rather than made
up with the silk foundation. The rainy
day skirt can be made of the double
faced material or of lighter weight
cloth, lined with silk. These skirts
are made almost universally plain and
are vera only on stormy days, Women
who have extensive wardfobes have
what is termed going away or sailing
costume, which is made long and the
model chosen for it is apt to be some
what elaborate. This costume, how
ever, is an extra accessory of the ward
| role, as it is only appropriate to wear
for dinner, as nothing looks more absurd
| than a woman pacing the deck of
steamer holding up her gown.
The popular cut Of the cloth jacket
is the Elton. 1t is double breasted and
| finished with small revers. These Jacket
! suits are universally worn with odd
blouses, and in arranging "a wardrobe
| for an ucean trip it Is well to have
both light and heavy bodices The
| flannel shirt waists were never as at
| tractive as this season. They are laid
| in both fine tucKs and box plaits and
| the regulation shirt outfit is no longer
| in fashion, but the sleeve is confined in
q narrow band that charaoterizes what
| is known az the Russian model. The
fancy stocks are endless in their variety.
The daintiest ones are built of soft silk
| or crepe de chine. Tie collar band
proper is laid in plaits that run around
the collar and the ends are pointed and
quite long and are simply tied through
once and confined to the blouse at ths
line of the bust by fancy pin. The
soft broadcloth in delicate blues, pinks,
layenders and yellows are popular and
many Of them have the plaits en-
broidery with French knots in black.
White waists of all kinds are popular,
and those built of India silk are at
once cool and attractive. 1t is we'll, if
| possible, to have somewhat dressy
| odd blouse to wear for dinner.
| Black is undoubtedly the popular
so-oalled color of the season and the
most up, to-date dressmakers are advis-
ing 1t for steamer wear. Brown and
blue are also popular shades. An
essential feature Of a steamer outfit is
heavy rsinooat that completely en-
velops the costume, and 1T ia well in
addition to this to have heavy long
cape to wesr on cold days. The latest
thing in hat for the purpose is the
shape known as the Marquis. Il comes
in soft felt, in light grey and drsb and
turns up at the side; its only decora-
tion being wide bow of velvet i'm
| mediatey in the front. The ever
becoming and popular FEDORA is also
considered fashionable.
| Wnn1an mt mn IN aorafu1 oh
the shoes they wear on sea voyage.
The breezes have little respect for
slsiIts and they do blow up SO. The
most up-to-date shoe is the patent
leather or enamel Oxford, with rather
high military heel. Inc soles ARE
still built with the extension, but the
toes are much narrower than they were
last season. The enamel, or what is
called half-kid, is an excellent substi-
tute for patent leather, and it is much
more comfortable. A pair of high,
Etout boots built on the order Of golf
ing shoes are essential, and they should
be provided with rubber soles and heels
TO wear when the decks are slippery.
"A steamer rug is necessary accessory
of the sea wardrobe Provident women
provide themselves with dainty flannel
night dresses, which can be found in
| ilBub-W6iBHL OuI6r uu cOublubrd-
tion should muslin night dresses be
worn at sea, as it. is impossible to
avoid draughts and dampness. With
these wrappers is often worn littlo
silk mob cap, which is frilled about
the face and trimmed with very narrow
lace. Travellers who have crossed the
ocean many times are always provided
with light flannel sheets, such as arc
used on beds in summer. These use
full articles have warded off many cases
Of rheumatism and neuralgia.
Compactness is the Keynote of COM
fort. SO far as the arrangement Of toilet
articles are concerned. inexpensive
toilet cases made of leather can be pro-
cured containing brush, comb, hand
glass, boxes for hairpins and small
pin cushion. The very stiffness of the
leather case makes is desirable, and
the things will not SPILL out of it, as
they will from the average travelling
case, which is made OF canvas. Another
useful case is one which contains bot
ties. These cases can be found both in
tine plated and sterling silver, and the
tops of the bottles should be marked SO
that the contents of the bottle can be
instantly noted.
The steamer trunk is one OF the
prime necessities of an OCEAN trip, and
if it is Systematically packed it is as
convenient as a chest Of drawers. The
newest trunks of this order have several
| ....,. = .l0oa,,. 30 as. IN hats ch.,o.