davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1901-03-24
Millinery sympathy for the Birds.

The Ornithologists' Union has issued a
strong appeal to the public through the
press for funds to assist 1t in the securing
of game wardens for the protection of
gulls and terms along the American coast,
as well as for other departments of its
work The appeal finds a conspicuous
place in all the leading newspapers of the
country, some of them using it as a leader
in their editorial columns.
1t goes without the saying that funds
will be forthcoming in goodly amounts
from those whose sympathies are with
the Ornithologists and the Audubons for
the protection of the birds of North
America The Ornithologists Union takes
all the credit for the making of the
Lacey bill" law. They who favored it
must not forget, however, says the Mil
linery Trade Review that had 1t not
been for the withdrawal of the opposition
Of the Millinery Merchants Protective
Association. in return for the acceptance
of its amendment by Mr. Lacey, the con-
test might have been prolonged, even the
bill defeated The statements made in
the appeal as regards tMilliners agents
sending postal-cards to hunters Offering
the highest prices for bird plumage," is
misleading; 1t may have the effect of
producing funds, but 1t Is a statement
that might have been true year or two
close investigation Miliiners' agents
If by that term they mean the raw stock
dealers-are not going TO pay out their
good money for bird in the bush or
encourage a defiance OF. law. They will
not jeopardze their good names or their
business interests for few paltry gulls
or terms. and they have no use for any
thing else that flies in North America,
except such fowl as the naturalists delight
in as food.
The millinery merchants, however while
unfolding the efforts of these good peo-
pie in protecting our native birds, en-
phatically protest against any interference
with the importation from other coun-
tries of such plumages as are useful in the
arts" that are pests in the countries
wherefrom obtained and legitimate COM
modify in this country.
These good people are going to extremes
with their notions of bird protection, and
are interfering with commerce. Sooner
or later they will run against snaG in
this business and make themselves ridicu-
lous.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1901-03-24

bias trimming on the skirt continues
around the Jacket. collar, and revers, and
alsd3on the turned-over cuff CT the tight
elbow sleeve of the ecru clcth. Large
silver buckles, set with strass, mark each
scallop on the Jacket.
The tailor toque which accompanies this
gown IA a very modern affair, and is
made of a rough tan fancy straw, fash
toned and bent with becoming undula-
lions. The only trimming consists of rich
fancy pins and a huge rosette at the
back of each ear, made of fancy straw
and black velvet ribbon. These rosettes
or cabochons are a feature of the new
spring millinery, though certain chic
about 1t cannot be decried.
1t is evident that the independent blouse
or bodice has tirner hold upon US than
ever, in spite of the hue and cry of its
enemies, whoever they may be. for the
shops are full of the daintiest models.
more at new and graceful effects than
at richness of materials, with the result
that the lovely models are accessible to
the home dressmaker also, though her
purse may be slender; refined taste and
deft fingers being all that is required to
make up a beautiful bodice out of rem
nantS of silk or lace. There seems to be
a great preference for Jokes this season
and very practical predisposition it Is.
Bits of lace can be utilized for the square,
round and pointed "empiecement" now so
much in vogue, and as they may be I'M
lined they will be found very comforta-
bile for the impending warm season. Be
may be encircled by dainty fichu draper
les of sheer fabrics or unfinished with
one of the many varieties of bolero eff
feCtS. (which promise to continue in
undated popularity during many months
to come. FELIX FOURNERY.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1901-03-24

Self-consciousness is often a barrier to
popularity in social life, and it is NAL
ady from which some girls suffer Not
everyone can be graceful and easy, but
one can be self-confident without being
self-assertive, serene aud dignified with
out being dull. Morbid fears as to what
others are thinking, and over-anXiety as
to ones appearance, may be overcome.
Little nervous mannerisms, a lack of re-
pose consciousness of ones clothes, are
all bad form. and to be avoided, says the
''Delineator" One of the most carefully
dressed, as well as attractive, women l
ever met had been required in her girl
hood. by her mother. to attend scrupu-
lousy to every detail of her toilet, and
then to think no more about it after
leaving her room. No touches to hair
and drawing on of gloves were permitted
after she had left her bedroom. If these
apparently trifling matters had been neg
lected. she was obliged to return to her
room to attend to them. For this early
training. which seemed irksome at the
time, she never ceased to be thankful
when she grew older. She acquired ex-
IRENE neatness in her personal appear
ance and an entire freedom from any
fussy consciousness about ii.
No one can make a good impression or
talk agreeably If half absorbed in putting
on gloves. clasping a bangle or pin, or
arranging stray locks of hair. 1t is a
mark of good breeding to be neatly dress
ed in every detail and never to appear
conscious of ones clothes. Sometimes
one sees n girl in a street car drawing
on gloves or adjusting a veil. Even at
the opera one frequently sees an occu-
pant of box buttoning gloves. rearrang-
ing a Jewel on bodice, or touching the
ornaments in the hair. These self-con'
scious manners in public are bad form
and detract from woman's charm.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1901-03-24
Origin of the Skirt Dance.

The woman who invented the skirt
dance seems TO have been more famous
than anybody supposed. 1t was no less
a person. says the Cincinnati Enquirer, 3"
than Emma Hart, of London, Lord Nell
sons Lady Hamilton. That is the person
Francisque Sarcey has selected as the
real originator of the dance, which in its
somewhat degenerated and present estate
is largely matter of calcium lights and
dress goods. 4 letter which NJ Sarcey
quoted was written by Goethe, and de-
scribes what the French critic takes to
be the origin OF the dance The famous
German wrote in March, l1Sl:
Sir William Hamilton, who is still the
British Ambassador here, after having
studied the works of nature for so long q
time. has found beautiful young woman
the most delightful thing in art or nature.
She is an English woman, very beautiful
in face and figure. She gives an enter
taiHment dressed in a Greek costume
Her hair hangs loose. She takes two
shawls in her hands, and she so varies
her attitudes. gestures, and play of fea-
lures that it is like dream. Kneeling,
standing. sitting. she assumes by turns
an expression of exaltation, repentance,
anxiety, remorse, affection"
The skirt dance now is so much the
work of the electrician and the limelight
man that il is agreeable to find the origi-
nal inventor of its grace and beauty was
a woman.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1901-03-24

variety, though it lacks the stiff uni
formity of that kind of costume and can
be classed among tailor mades only by
the careful workmanship which it de-
notes. The skirt is of biscuit colored
of the same shade. The front gore of
cloth Stimulates narrow tablier and is
bordered on both sides by two shaped
panels of ecru silk richly brocaded in
delicate floral patterns, which are out
lined and embellished by hand with fine
silver thread and tiny spangles, In close
imitation of the famous silks woven in
the Louis XIV period. The back is in
habit form above. and falls below in
graceful ripples. 1t is in one piece, and
the cloth is naturally cut bias. The skirt
is quite long in spite of the cry against
lengthy promenade skirts, and its wide
flare does not differ in shape from those
tions trimming the sides are edged with
three rows of narrow black taffeta bias
bands which extend also round the hem.
The jacket is complement TO the
style prescribed by the skirt. 1t is of the
same ecru cloth and follows closely the
lines of the figure. The plain back elon-
gates into round, plain basque at the
back and is fitted out with a high turned
over collar and pointed revers and seal
lopS which disclose a straight vest of
brocadGd ecru silk, dec grated to match
the panels of the skirt and closing down
the front with tiny silver buttons set with
rhinestones. The high stock is of the
same fabric as the vest and is finished
with a tiny band of fine Brussels point,
of which there is also small applique on
each reVer A gracefully knotted cravat
Of black satin completes the contrasting
black note which sets off dainty colors
to such advantage The black taffeta
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1901-03-24
THE WOMAN AT CARDS.
ShyIock Could Not Equal Her in Col
Letting Debts.

Card debts with fashionable people take
precedence of any other obligation-that
is, a man or woman may owe money
right and left to tradespeople and not
lose caste, but an unpaid score at
bridge" will ostracize him or her at
once OF course, there are certain reasons
for this rigor. In the first place, the loser
would have taken his opponents monsy If
he had been the winner, and therefore
the risks must necessarily be equal, and
secondly, such obligations are purely
debts of honor. But it is curious in
stance of the unwritten laws that gov
ern society that n winner at cards must
be an uncompromising creditor Easy
going, generous men and women. who
would lend money willingly to their poor
er friends and never think of it again,
turn into memorable creditors when the
money is lost at the card table a story
is going the rounds that at a fashionable
house recently one of the guests found
that he was unable to pay his losses. says
the New York Tribune" Il will send a
check tomorrow" he said, thinking that
such a promise would be quite sufficient,
but his hostess touched a bell. My
footman is at your orders, Mr. X"
she said; you can send him to your
house for anything you want"
Women are quite as strict among them
selves as men on this point. The father
of a pretty young woman who heard a
vociferous discussion going on in the
drawing room one afternoon, on his re-
turn from business looked into the room,
and was surprised to find friend of his
daughter, who was great favorite of his,
sobbing violently. while half a dozen
other girls We're all talking at once.
Dorothy says she cannot pay her losses
at bridge papa answered his daughter
to his enquiry as to what was the trouble.
she has lost SIS, and says she has spent
all her allowance, and hasn't a cent to
pay it with" ''Qh. is that all?" exclaimed
the good naturSd man. Here. Dorothy,
child. let me be your banker" And he
drew out a roll Of bills from his pocket.
mo, papa" mo, Mr.. X-i' chorused
Dorothy's accusers. She would have
taken our money if she had won. She
had no right 10 play with nothing to pay.
1t was not fair. and we won't have her in
our club any more" and. despite the
kind-hearted remonstrances of her cham
pion and poor Dorothys tears, no COM
promise was allowed. and the latter was
suspended until she could pay what she
owed, legitimately. It's Pay, pay, pay!"
for your credits sake" at bridge"
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1901-03-24
MADAME La MODE.
Who Is This Mysterious Creator of
Fashionable Fads.

Whence come she modes? The student
of history may well lay aside his folios
and his original manuscripts and his work
in the British museums and devote his
attention to the contents of his grand
mammals garnet, those chests in which
silks, embroideries. woolens and coarsely
woven cottons and homespuns will tell
the more truthful and the more vivid
story.
When Chateaubriand got back from ex-
lie he went, as was natural to youth of
his temperament, not to the Assembly
first, but to the salons of his few remain
ing friends. They were all good royalists,
but through closed doors and shut blinds
| and upon whispers, fearful and hoarse,
had entered-the Fashion.
These ladies who were ready to die for
the old regime, who would mount the
scaffold tomorrow with ''vive lie roi,'
were decked in short-waisted garments
that were bound beneath the arms with a
girdle; the latter were bare, and their
hair was cut short and curIed in tiny
waves over their heads. The Couture a
la guillotine," as they described it in the
| hairdressers shops, was a style adopted
! as well by the ladies of the court as by
! Camille Desmoulins. Even England,
| shuddering over the horrors of the Revo-
| luton, and afterward training her mill
tia and throwing up useless breastworks
against the invasion of "Bony, discard
ed her stays put patches on her rudy
cheeks and was an insular copy of the
Partisan dressmaker.
When Eugene became slim and a trifie
awry on one side, says the Baltimore
Sum-" hoops were the mode, and it was
impossible to crowd more than two doz-
en- women into the largest ballroom. In
vain the tender maid whispered Come
nearer. l can't hear you. The most ar
dent of lovers could not get within three
feet of his adored one. and those who are
inclined to scoff at the influence of the
styles may as well look at a picture of
Victoria shortly after her visit to her
cousins in the Tuilieries. The Prince
of Wales. who is supposed to be leaning
against her, is five feet off, separated
from his loving mamma by what seems
to be a hogshead made of cooper's slaves
covered with Powered brocade; the in
FAINT Dukes of Connaught and Edinburgh
held maternal fashion under each arm,
but at such a distance from her figure
that they look like animated pillars in
kits resting on a billowy wave, and
Prince Albert for once in his life was out
of sight and incapable, on account of the
space that separated them, of whispering
the sound, moderate. Teutonic advice that
made the Empress of India something of
a hausfrau and the maids of honor plain
but respectable.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1901-03-24

Mrs Evelyn Smith. of Greenwich. Kent
County. L. L. is the only woman in the
country who officially occupies the posi-
ton of Jail keeper. Mrs. Smith was born
in the building over which she has pre-
sided for the last twenty years. For
mere than fifty years some member of
her family has served in the position
which she now occupies She has never
been attacked by a prisoner, and during
her long term of service there have been
only two escapes, both of them at the
same time, before the present modern jail
was completed. Mrs. Smith rarely has
trouble with a prisoner. even those who
are brought into the Jail by force quiet
ing down under her influence. She de-
clares that no class of people are quicker
to appreciate kind treatment and cOur-
tesy than criminals, and that ii is much
easier to handle them with pleasant words
than with handouts and solitary confne
ment The number of prisoners under
Mrs Smiths care averages ten. During
her temporary absence from home her
place as taller is taken by her daughter,
Mrs. Annie Burdick.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1901-03-24
THE MELoDIoUs RAINBOW.
Which Do You Prefer, Pink Music
or Red:


Nine. Alice lie Plongeon gave reading
in New York the other day, when she told
a drawing-room full of people all about
THE Rainbow and Its Melodies"
The speaker illustrated her theory con-
corning the Importance of color as one of
the great forces of nature by wearing a
green gown with draperies Of vivid red.
The trimming was used to demonstrate
the value of red lin ralment and in ma
ture." The New York Tribune" dis
cusses the lecture as follows:
''To exemplify the warlike effect of red,
Miss Munro, In a rich contral< voice,
sang a Scottish battle song, Bonnie
Prince Charlie but she was robed in a
Greek gown of pale blue, with a First
Empire comb in her hair. To the I'M
initiated this was an ircongruous note,
but, as the speaker said, Color is accord
ing to our vibrations, and scarlet may
not be scarlet to you the Greek gown
may have appeared as royal purple or
rose pink TO those in the audience whose
vibrations leaned that way.
Every object said Nine. lie Plongeon,
has it's own tone, and every sound has a
color. and If your color is violet your
voice will be sweeter when you are sur
rounded by violet
The connection between color ana music
was illustrated by the harp, which is sup
posed to suggest red and warlike and san
culinary things; the lutte. to which belong
green and verdant lawns. while the guitar
is accompanied by yellow, the faded color
of Spain. To illustrate pink music Miss
Mary b. Sinclair played 'Elizabeth's
Prayer from 'Tannhauser, on the
piano Later on she gave the Introduction
to Sonata Tragica.' by MacDoweli, and
the Sonata Pastorale,' by Beethoven.
The speaker impiored her hearers to
consider the uses of color apart from their
Importance in the fine arts. adding: BY
studying the effect of color upon ourselves
We may better understand our own tenn
permanent and learn to know ourselves. a
knowledge of the curative properties of
light and color may diminish our bodily
pangs, and enable us to increase our vigor
as well as our beauty According to
Nine. lie Plongeon, when a criminal COM
mits a crime, or the enterprising burglar
goes "a burgling, a red aura eXudes from
his body. However. II one in a red gown
approaches Gagged birds they viii exhibit
intense excitement"
The lady failed to state what dreadful
thing would happen IL zone in red
gown were to approach a pasture field
In ha
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1901-03-24
The Thin Woman.

The slim-built, graceful woman will al
ways have the advantage of looking bet
ter than her heavier sister. She will re-
tain youthful appearance often until
she is 30, when her daughters may look as
old as she does. while the over-plump wo-
man begins to look matronly when she is
rs, often earlier For that reason II is
entirely right that women should do all
they can TO remain within the weight
that aecords with their height and type.
Five pounds increase in weight is easily
discerned. II can as easily be put away
without any trouble or any rigorous diet
or treatment. Ordinary exercise or do
Ing away with whatever article OF diet
or mode of life causes the gain will rap
Idly remove the result. Sometimes an al
most unnoticed item will add rapidly to
weight. When strawberries come in sea-
son many people will take on flesh. not
through the fruit but on account Of the
cream that is taken daily with the Der
RIGS.
Physicians generally are opposed to the
strenuous banting methods that women
indulge In In the endeavor TO rapidly dis
pose of bulk, says an exchange
Walking. in the open air, mild ex-
ercise begun moderately and gen
orally increased is advocated by every
doctor but the drugging resorted to IS
most injurious and often fraught with
serious consequences.
There is hardly a probability that the
present rage for thinness among women
viii become more than a fad. AT the col
lege the American girl remains the same
splendid normal type that she has become
within the last ten years, which have
banished SO many evils In the way OF I'M
healthful dressing. The society woman
may copy the English Burne-Jones angel
for the spring of 1901. but in all likelihood
the summer girl will return to her chif-
fons, her frills, and her RULED petticoats
The spasmodic attempts that fashion has
made in years past toward pulling the
feminine skirts tight about the limbs have
always yielded to the more sensible and
modest moderation that has marked the
oress Of the American women. who long
ago sbjured the hideous ecccntricities
which the fashion plates of twenty 1--WE
years ago bear witness to.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1901-03-24
A Woman Butcher.

1t is trite observation, possibly, that
women are pushing their way into occu-
pations formerly occupied exclusively by
men One would hardly expect, however,
to hear OF woman butcher. but Roches-
ter has one, and Is rather proud I'm the
Pelief That she is the only example OF the
Kind In the United States. She is Miss
ID. e. Stevenson. and does all the work of
regular butcher, the buying. quartering.
ETC.. and as her photograph would indi-
cate. L. young, rather pretty. and not at
gil qYch & person in appearance as one
would expect to find engaged In such q
masculine pursuit.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1901-03-24
The Romance of N Ring

He was gazing with dreamy eyes into
the far-on-ahead.
''Ah. my darling" he murmured. what
matters it that sorrow and trouble must
of necessity be lurking in the unknown
future? While am with you l think OF
nauGht but the present--the beautiful. SUI
perb PRESENT.
so do /. dearest" she replied. but
you'll take me with you when You buy it.
won't you? Men have such queer tastes
in rings. ''-Leslie's Weekly.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1901-03-24

Few of those who have seen Sarah
Bernhard behind the footlights know
that this famous woman is a great hunter
and enjoys nothing better than a day ,e-
hind the dogs when the weather is fair
and the game good. She has been In Wv
orleans recently. and while there took
one of her hunts. She was accompanied
had a successful day.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1901-03-24
Over the Bridge.

Mrs Galloupe-Be sure and come. Mr.
Gibble. ! promise you you shall meet,
oh. quite a number OF pretty women.
Gibble-How can refuse you. my dear
women. however, but for you that shall
come.-Brooklyn Lie.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1901-03-24
Why She Grinned,

Carrie-Charley thinks my new gown
just beautiful. He said last evening it
VAS perfect dream. What are you
grinning at?
Madge-Oh. nothing. l was only think
ing that Charley told me only today he
has such horrid dreams.-Boston Tran
script.
Evening bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1895-1912, 1901-11-01
EGGS FOR FOOD.

Would 1t not be wise to substitute
mere eggs for meat in our diet? About
one-third of an egg IL solid nutriment.
There are no bones, no tough pieces
that have to be laid aside. A good
egg Is made up of 10 parts shell. 80
parts white and 80 parts yolk. The
White of an egg contains & per cent
water and the yolk ~ per cent. Prac.
ucally an egg Is animal food, and yet
there Is none of the disagreeabla
work OF the butcher necessary to oh.
TEN II. The vcgetarians of England
used eggs freely, and many of these
men are 80 to 80 years old. and have
been remarkably free from sickness
Eggs are best when cooked four min.
utes. This takes away the animal
taste, which IL offensive to some, but
does not harden the white or yolk 80
as to make 1t difficult to digest. An
egg. If cooked very hard. Is difficult of
digestion, except by those persons pos.
sessed Of stout stomachs. Such eggs
should be eaten with bread and masti.
Gated very finely. Fried eggs are
much less wholesome than boiled
ones. An egg dropped into hot water
Is not only IA clear and handsome. but
a delicious morsel. Most people spoil
the taste of their eggs by adding pep
per and salt. A little sweet butter il
the best dressing. Eggs contain much
phosphorus, which is supposed to be
beneficial To those who use their
brains much.-New York Ledger