The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1901-10-27

PARIS, Oct 12-The exploitation of
brown is one of the marked features of
winter fashions. Brown is to be seen in
every shade from the deepest nut color
tC reddish brown, resembling the tint of
iron rust. The color harmonizeS with the
fur trimmings which are part of the
composition of so many fashionable cos
tunes. Touches of other colors are add
ed to the toilet with the idea rather of
bringing out the rich shade of the cloth
than of contrasting with the color.
Oranges, reds and gold give the most
effective touches
Trimming the smarter frocks may be
seen chenille embroidery, handsome gal
looms. ribbon velvet, cloth flowers, APP
phQues of lace, art nouveau embroidery
and combinations of the devises popular
last season. Much fur is used, and black
velvet trimmed with sable, Persian lamb
or broadtail is considered particularly
chic.
Chinchilla is utilized in making many
of the short Russian blouses for outdoor
wear with autumn frocks I have now in
mind one, much trimmed with lace about
the collar and lace decorated down the
front of the long WASTED blouse, which
was an accessory to a frock of CASH
mere of almost the same Shade Very
rich and smart it looked, particularly as
the wide-rimmed gray felt hat donned
with it combined in its decorations lace
and chinchilla, with a touch of gray vel
vet set off by purple velvet violets
The vogue of the plated backed skirt
is definitely decided upon. 1t may be con-
fidently stated that the short skirts pre-
dicted as a feature of this winters fash
ion will have no very cordial following,
in France at any rate The French fig
mr. &c Of 20 off all
and arguments have little weight with
the great couturieres who introduce new
modes
The velveteens of the season seem to
be perfect, a fact due in many cases to
the hand-finish to which the more ex-
penSiVe of them have been treated. Close
ness of weave and thickness of pile as
sure durability. while an exquisite luster
imparts a beauty all it's own. Evening
o.oaks and gowns made of this charming
fabric will be much worn and garnished
with cobwebby lace, and will be becom-
ing, especially to rather slender women,
who always acquire a roundness of out
line when clad in velvet Some of the
fashionable evening tints are watercress,
mignonette and leaf green, lizard, mist
and gObelin blues, phloX, Malmaison red,
sunflower, tangerine and daffodil. For
street wear there are darker shades, but
for evening toilets the above mentioned
colors are most desirable.
Velveteen combines handsomely with
cloth. A costume of gobelin blue cloth
adorned with velyeteen of the same
shade gave forth all the lights of a blue
birds wing as the light fell full or shift
ed over its surface. The gown was cut
to fit the figure snugly, the velveteen
being inset in the form Of q vest upon
the bodice and inclosed in a framework
of cream lace appliques. An inserting
of the velveteen forming a V down the
back was likewise Enclosed in lace -ap-
pliques Pointed insettings of velveteen
shone upon the sleeves and even glist-
ened upon the well-iltted skirt The back
of the latter was laid in several box
plaits, the center one being hollow. The
collar, a bit of lace applied over the
gliStening Velveteen, was of medium
height.
The use of stitching on taiIor-made
frocks has abated not a whit. Stitched
bands combined with buttons seem to
be the favored device On the simpler
froclzs. a handsome walking dress of
rough-faced frieze strapped with glace
silk and studded with series of silver
buttons attracted my attention yester-
day as 1 strolled along the Avenue de
fOpera It was worthy CT notice both
on account of its smartness and its
beauty. On the skirt a strapped band
encircled the hem in the back and crept
up the front in three modest bands, each
headed by three silver buttons. The
jacket might be classified as a bolero,
although it was continued below the
waist line and fitted carefully over the
hips. The fronts of the coat were so
cut as to give the center the straight
short front effect, combined with ter
minal points. The different seams We're
OVERLAND with strappings bands of which
were continued around the borders of
the coat. The sleeves, while entirely Of
frieze, were cut in two sections, the
real sleeve ending at the elbow with
trumpet-shaped dare-edged, with bands
of silk stitching. The undersle4Ee fitted
tight and fared in a lesser degree at the
wrist, where more stitching appeared.
The blouse worn underneath The coat
peeped out at the waist line below the
pointed fronts, while suggestion of it
was given at the throat in a bow OF cfif-
fon matching the blouse in color
The use of medallions continues to
grow. On recent white cloth tailor
made gown of the princess type several
rows of them appeared. The medallions
consisted of pompadour silk framed in
Stitched bands Of plain silk. They head
ed and edged the three shaped fiounces
upon the skirt, appearing also on the
bodice and sleeves.
One sees a great many points on the
model frocks. These sometimes outline
the edge of the overskirt In. the case of
q silk gown which attracted my atten-
ton yesterday they formed the outline
of the bOIero and each section of the
triple skirt. A band of cloth a shade
darker than the silk made the irregular
tiles more noticeable The gbolero, fash
loEed of cloth and following the skirt
IN its triple design, was extremely short.
witch a collar covered by guipuFe The
ceTsage under the collar was formed of
silk and lace, the lace set in the form
of deep empiecement
F5ile builds some of the most pleas
ing of the winter gowns. Its seftness
ana adaptability for draping are its chief
recommendations. Beauty and simplicity
were combined in a dress of pastel blue
wolfe trimmed on the hips and bodice
with embroidered VS. worked in dots
with chenille embroidery The blouse
opened over a full length vest of white
embroidered about the neck in gold, with
a Band of black velvet as the collar.
Bows of black velvet trimmed the blouse
and the double sleeves, the close fitting
unSersleeve displaying a bit of gold en-
broidery applied on white mousseHne dc
sole. The girdle of gold and velvet rib
ben was fairly wide. The points of dot
ted chenille embroidery, extending below