The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1901-06-09
FADs IN LEATHER

In her choice Of leather, Dame Fashion
shows the same tickle mind as In her
selection of other wearing apparel. Last
year very pronounced demand was ex-
perienced for Russia leather, but this
season it appears from inquiries made at
several of the leading shops IN town that
patent leather has the call.
The better grades Of patent leather
shoes are made from patent calf. No
patent calf is made in this country.
Some years ago the tanners here spent
considerable money in trying to make
patent calf that would compare faVOrabIy
in quality with the imported article, but
were unable to do it. Patent leather and
patent calf must not be COMPOUNDED. OF
the former large quantities are made
here. 1t being tanned from cOWhide,
while the latter is from calfskin. Small
calfskins Of fine hber are selected. Dur
ing the process Of tanning, they are
stretched, else the japan would soon
crack
The process Of laying the japan follow
ed in Germany and France is a secret
the American tanner has not yet learned.
A first quality patent calf. If not exposed
to sudden changes Of temperature, viii
wear quite well as the ordinary calf.
The quality may be judged from the
brilliancy of the yet black If the japan
has a blush cast, depend upon it the
quality is not first-class, and let not
the smooth-tongued salesman deceive
you.
Kangaroo is another Of fashions favor
ties II was ITSL USeQ IN the uldnuIaC-
ture of shoes about twenty-five years
ago, since which time it has gradually
grown in favor. As it has won public
favor entirely by its merits, Ii will doubt
less retain its popularity for some years
1t has the virtue of being both durable
and very easy to the foot. It's strength is
so great as to defy the power Of ordi-
nary men to tear.
Cordovan has taken the place Of alli-
gator for wear in wet weather. This IS
also largely imported from Germany. It
is made from certain parts Of the horse
hide, and IS a very durable leather. 1t
is imperviOus to water, and has a very
smooth surface. 1t is not imported in
sides, as are most kinds Of leather. but
comes blocked to the shape Of the vamp.
Unlike calf it does not stretch in wear
ing, but retains the shape Of tho last
until the shoe is worn out. Formerly it
was very expensive, but recently the
tanners have conquered many Of the diff
ficulties in preparing the hide, and with
reduced cost it is now popular.
This season in all the many original
designs for tasteful footgear, ooze calf
plays conspicuous part. It's soft. vel
Vety feeling and appearance 10 doubt
commend 1t to the favor Of the fair sex
it is really calf, small skins Of fine
fiber being selected. The dyes are per-
colated or OOzed through it: hence it's
name. The VelVety feeling is given to
the flesh side by a series Of sandpaper-
ings, while the grain side Of the skins
is slightly pebbled This permits of many
combinations from the same skin. The
peculiar texture Of a caIfsl1in permits
Of its being dyed a fast color in any
color and shade from jet black to
bright orange or cream white. Gray, tan
and russell are most in demand. Not
only is Ooze calf being used IN the manu-
facture Of shoes, but II Is now USED tc-
quite an extent by the makers Of al
cases, pen wipers and a thousa&A ether
novelties.