New-York tribune., 1901-03-03
THREE MOURNING COSTUMES.

gives the long waist line. Buckles are extremely
large. Some the height of militartsm. with
gold eagles and stars, and others show graceful
designs in worked gold and enamel. The ribbon Is
sometimes stiff with gold embroidery. or II may
he strip of gold cloth arranged in various folds
OF the other extreme. tucked folds OF some soft
silk Little tails attached to the back OF the
belt constitute an idea OF the moment that has
no particular grace or beauty. Still, II indicates
how fashionable these oId-timed coat tails are II
it gives little hint how charming they may
be in the proper place.
VARIATION OF THE PLEATED BACK.
If one has tired of the inverted pleat OF the
two box pleats that adorn the backs of most
skirts. this new idea will doubtless he welcomed.
IT consists Of a cluster Of small side pleats with
narrow box pleat in the centre. which gives be
coming narrow effect TO the back of a skirt. and
is new-two recommendations. This is the model
chosen for a suit of light weight bluet cloth. The
skirt has the fulness gathered in this way behind,
and the bottom has a shaped founce arranged
with undulating lines The jacket is Of the Di-
( rectoire shape. and a charming example Of this
most successful fashion. II IS in front In
much the same curve as that seen a mans dress
waistcoat. and fastens in double breasted fashion
. with four buttons placed low that the double
breasted part OF the jacket suggests belt In the
back there are little position coat tails. The open
ing Of the Jacket shows folded waistCoat Of a
cream yellow and gold brocade a handsome touch
TO a cloth gown The chemisette IS of Nalenciennes
insertion and embroidered lawn topped with
choker OF gold lace and lines narrow black
velvet The sleeves slashed To the elbows. with
turned back corners faced with the brocaded silk.
and with small underpuffs 10 match the chemisette
novelty in spring is pplica ton OF de
sign cut out Of linen sewed directly 10 the cloth
This idea dscreetly used on suit or ecru wool the
design in this case being conventionalized flowers
In several shades Of blue appliqued silk.
This is used to form revers rather collar that
turns into straight revers the bottom of the
jacket. The back Of this bolero is in fashion
that has achieved considerable popularity. The
back seams are heavily stitched and elongated 10
make of the back a point that fastens TO the waist
line with buckle and ends an inch or so below
The blouse is OF white silk. with a lace ohoker and
iace SCARF caught through a gold ornament few
with buckle of blue enamel The skirt has no
trimming. and is made with shaped fiounce laid IN
four or five deer tuoks or plaits
THE SEPARATE BODICE.
AS the season advances one sees a rather ex-
tensive use Of shirrngs Thin stuffs shirred in
diamonds marked off with narrow black velvet
ribbon, present attractive yokes and undersleeves
A charming blouse is made in this way the
shirred part forming a deep yoke and front and
undersleeves. The rest Is OF the silk arranged in
soft folds
Another pretty fashion for blouses is to tuck the
silk and divide the tucked part with lines of velvet
is effective in white and black with yoke OF laca
prettily jettcd. A good many separate blouses are
made with close sleeves. broken by elbow puffs
This puff Is sometimes only the outside or the
arm, rather a newer idea than the puff all about
A novel idea is sleeve quite close. but laid in