Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1901-07-06


W THINK it was Artemus Ware
who laid down the axiom: 'Whcf
you are in Turkey do as Turkeys
do" and--at least In the spirit Of
lt--there was never a uuer one
for the guidance Of globe trotters
Those who stick to the small colon
les Of their own race ~her-
ever found. demanding the food
and habits OF home, miss half the de-
lights Of travelling IA foreign lands. II
Is far better to adapt oneself TO the
ways Of the people one happens to be
with, 10 eat and sleep and live as they
do-to be one Of them as far as posi-
bile; and II the life seems rude and
hard, to console oneself with the
thought that II whole nations exist IN
that fashion from the cradle 90 the
grave. one can afford 90 endure IL a
short time, and then, by contrast. To
doubly appreciate the comforts OF
home when returned 10 them Certain
~ that is the only way t0 get the best
out OF Africa In now thoroughly cos
inOpoitan Algiers you may live exactly
as you like-as Freuchy as In Paris
as German as In Berlin, as English as
IN London, as Yankee as IN BOston-
there being tlourishing colonies Of
every civilized nation. each with us
distinctive hotels. clubs and cafes. For
my own party, we act always on the
principle that one does not go 80 far
10 find what may be seen every day
at home. and therefore we conhne our
selves religiously TO the Characteristic
things Of the countries we are visiting
In pursuance Of this plan we are llY-
ing IN the Upper Town. or Arab
quarter Of Alglers, In the great, cool,
shad0wy inn which was once the pal
ace Of the sultan Abou- TachiIn, with lts
richly carved horseshoe arches, IT'S
glazed encaustic tiles, slender columns
Of yellow marble and doors of cedar
wood, wrought with arabesque devices
dlmmed by time but mayelously beau
tiful. Its inner court, open OVERHEAD TO
the glowing African sky Is lncircleed
by graceful arches supporting a
gallery above into which all the
chambers open. The court below, with
It's murmurlng fountain In the middle
It's waving palms and rare exotic plants
was doubtless the resort Of the
harem In the old days. and the whole
scene fOrcibly recalls the poets pic
ture;
"The caryen cedarn doors.
Flung inward over spangled floors
Broad based flights OF marble stairs
Ran up with golden balustrade
The solem palms We're ranged
unmoyed OF summer wind
A lovely time
For II was In the golden prime
OF good Haroun Alraschd,"
| venture TO assert that few Amer
leans have ever seen the inside OF this
house, much less lived in IT, Yet II Is
open TO all like any other inn. and It's
charges are about one-thrd those Of
the glarlng. common place crowded
obstetrics Of the Lower Town. Here
there II plenty Of clean. cool tranquil
space and life goes on sleepily, like
q page out OF the Arabian Nights
Entertainments"
II you desire attendance. you step In
TO the corridor and clap your hands
softly together, presently there shuliles
along a sandalled follower Of Moham-
med enyeloped from head 10 foot In
flowing white, like a stage ghost. who
salaams TIN his nose almost touches the
marble Hour 10 receive your order for
a mug Of water. To be sure, the coveted
drink may not arrive for an hour or
two, and when II does. viii be luke
warm; but II comes In copper jug,
brought from the moss grown fountain
under the shadow OF the mnaret. on
the shoulders Of the draped figure,
which salaams again In dlgnined |
silence and them assumes an attitude |
" Sich might serve as the model for !
statute of Junius Brutus. No apology |
for hardness need be expected here, |
where such a thing as haste or promp-
btude was never heard Of The patrons |
ot the place are Mo0rs and Arabs their |
dark faces and black boards accen- |
tuated by the white bernouse with an |
occasional turbaned Turk and Jewish |
merchant from the interior. come |
Town later. though less picturesquely |
'ostumed than the Moslems. are YET
'psctacular objects, worthy Of attention /
n the dress OF their class-the chechi |
ina gray blue Jacket with silver but
ons, embroidered vest, crimson sash
ind full trousers. There are women In
he house. many Of them remain Sc.
'luded behind the lattlced doors and
'auze curtains, which admit the air
md permit those behind 10 look out
RELY while themselves completely
hidden You catch never a glimpse Of
hem, except at morning and evening.
When weld figures glide 90 and from
he adjacent mosque, like white dom
noes In a masquerade, each closely fol-
owed by a stalwart negress. who In
his twentieth century ais the place Of
he eunuch ot An Babas day. The
Idjar, or veil, which covers the face
II every Moslem woman. Is 20 disposed
hat one dark eye flashes out: and the
Inning lamp Is always turned upon the
orelgner with unmistakable expression
4 interest and curiosity
or course. u you are ~ the feminine
.ersuasoin.' you must eat IN the pr-
acy OF your apartment served by the
llent Junlus Brutus On voluminous
rapery. who appears 20 enjoy q peace
NJ snoozc between each " the fifteen
= sixteen courses Most of the menu
8 an unguessahle C0nundrum. aud
nlves and forks are conspicuous by !