The Houston daily post. [volume] (Houston, Tex.) 1886-1903, 1901-03-31

invariably give the keynote to the fashions
of each season, and dressmakers, as well as
society women, always make a point of at
tending all the fashionable plays, for In
this way they soonest see the novelties, the
model gowns that are so jealousy guarded
from the eye of the rival dressmakng ca
Enlistment.
Small wonder is it that the stage should
be the best place to display the fashions.
The actresses are women of fine presence,
who understand TO perfection the art of
wearing their cothes--as they do posing
for photographer-and 1t may be assumed
there is not the smallest detail of their
gown that is not exhibited to the best ad-
vantage.
play lately produced In Parls-"Er
Fete" is the name--is conceded TO be one
of the best gowned plays of the present
time and the costumes are being copied in
every variety of texture and coloring.
Figure l illustrates the gown worn by
Nine Valdey in this play of EN- Fete"
and Is most charming example of color
ing and style. The model was designed by
Boue Soeurs, and is of the light drab cloth
so extremely fashionable for the moment.
The princess effect is to be noticed, which
the dressmakers call the bodice effect.
meaning that the skirt, instead of being
finished at the waist line, is cut high
enough to form bodice, the waist being
worn inside. Lines of tucks or cords hide
the darts that are necessary to insure the
requisite perfect tit over the hips, and the
lines are arranged to be longer in front
than at the back, to preserve the inevitable
long pointed waist line. a wide, attached
nCunce, headed with soft folds of white
liberty silk or panne velvet, caught up at
regular intervals by rosettes or buckles.
and giving the effect of scallops finishes
the skirt. The hounce is finished with rows
OF stitching and has applique designs OF
yellow lace. bolero jacket of taffeta silk
or cloth, with rows OF narrow tucks, is
lace and is finished around the shoulders
with folds of white to match the skirt ana
gathered rufhe. The yoke, collar and front
are of stitched ta1eta the stitching put on
in round lines. Novel elbow sleeves with
full undersleeves of white chiffon COM
plete this essentially smart costume.
1t Is interesting to notice that in spite of
the assertions constantly made that taffeta
silk does not wear-and even the shopkeep-
ers say they VIII not, as a rule, warrant 1t
mand Ii is used for lining. for trimming.
is combined with other materials, aud
whole costumes are made OF 1t; while
new fad is 70 use i in dinner and ball
ruchings and bands and in every known col
or is this silk to be had both In the soft
ana the stinf qualities. The taffeta silk pet
~
but OF all petticoats they are the best, aud
chiffon.
The gowns made of some material com.
! hined with taffeta are considered immense,
~ smart this season. Last year 1t was the
taneta SILK gowns with the cloths that
reversed and again IL is cloth or yelling
that has the taffeta trimmings. charln
ing Htgs, costume worn by Nine, valdey, and
designed by Boue Socurs Is capItal
model, as seen In Illustration No. .. Tha
skirt is one Of this seasons most becoming
Shapes clos, fitting over the hips, but with
plenty OF tulness in the back breadths and
y y tremendous dare TO the skirt. shaped
nonnce Is gathered and trimmed with three
toius OF black taifeta; above the tlounce ia
a 9roe9 shirred band of taffeta, then i've
III nlouSe shape, trimmed around the lower
part with taffeta bands, and then a row OF
sthilrrihg to match the trimming of the
Shirt' Ihe waist is open in front TO SHOW,
lace vest, and there are smaller reyers
" Whlte satln, with narrow bands Of vel
, hT. "n H. soll buttons ANA round lace col
ial, Tue sleeves have puff at the elbow
ana also at the shoulder. and are strnpne1
Win bands OF the taffeta. This gown can
y. ne MADE wlsh tafeta of the same shade us
the Nellng, and that Is, indeed the rpr-~~>si
rnle' mt there Is n bright blue that looks
especially well with trimmings OF blncl.
una me new shade Of red can also stand
tnc Shafp contrast Of the black alfhough
we fancy az present seems to be for tho ali
ohe-tone gowns, Yelling gowns. esncclailv
those Intended for hard wear. should never
ne trimmed with white tnfTeta for IL Is too
conspicuous 70 start with. and, besides,
MVula SOL quite too easily. Pinked ruffes
oi ,taHeta silk are also smart for trimminp
yelling gowns, and the same rule anplies
70 ~, them as TO the shisred bands and tlnt
hho'us; ,they must either match in color or
4, Evening gowns were never more siutpi.
N N design nor, II must be confessed, mora
sinPensMe than at the present time The
snnpllelty lies In the plain fat effects the
expense In the materials that are employed