Northern Wisconsin advertiser. [volume] (Wabeno, Wis.) 1898-1925, 1901-10-31
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Winter Coats.


much in demand as separate waists,
and every large shop has supply of
them, while the tailors have many
smart models for their customers con-
sideration. It is a settled question
that the most generally useful sepa-
rate coat is black one, and now
there are in style many exceedingly
smart designs made In heavy silk as
| well as cloth, while in velvet there are
charming models. The newest coats
this season are of three-quarter
length, in the Louis XVI style, with
| fitted back, rather full skirts and
straight fronts, fitted in at the side
seams and darts, however so that
there is little rese'" blance to the
straight front of last year excepting
in the line from the shoulder down.
The embroidered or brocade waist
coats are quite feature of these
coats, and rare old bits of brocade are
utilized for this purpose, while
white satin with the finest of Pampa-
dour or Empire embroidery is most
effective.
NJ
satin, brocade and cloth are immense
| ly popular. Their usefulness was so
well established last season that there
was no doubt the fashion would con-
tinue in favor, but there is a veritable
craze for them now. An especially
smart coat is rather longer than
three-quarter length, of heavy ribbed
silk with applique ON net bands down
the front end, also around the entire
coat
1t is impossible to do good work
with the covering stitches unless the
under filling is carefully done. 1t
should be carried lengthwise of
form or with its direction. The first
set of stitches can be long, and when
these are evenly laid they should be
bound in with slanting stitches from
side to side. Great care should be
taken, in the first place, to lay an
equal quantity of cotton over the sur
face, and in the second to keep all
well within the outline. One may
raise the work in this way just lit
tie as on the baby pillow, or firm and
|
the work on the beautiful pillow-sham
are done. The form must be wide
enough to permit of this raising. how
ever. Stems or single lines can be
most satisfactorily worked over a
single thread.
The second step in this embroidery
is the over-work. These stitches are
made to cover the width of the letters
or vines or ornaments from side to
side entirely without shading and
with perfect regularity. 1t is not al
ways that such definite rules for en-
broidery can be laid down as in this
particular instance, but as it is a kind
of work chiefly dependent upon ac-
curacy for its beauty, it is therefore
quite possible to state in what re-
spects 1t shall be accurate.
Diaphanous stuffs will continue TO
reign supreme for evening gowns.
Embroidered mouselines in black,
white. ecru, and also some gaudily
colored effects. are offered as correct.
Styles in wraps remain somewhat
unsettled. That is, it is clear enough
that a great variety of fine outside
garments will be offered and worn,
but just which will be the most
abundant ones remains uncertain.
Sleeves are slowly but surely alter
ing; they have been gradually doing
so for some months. In fact, before
the real winter fashions make their
appearance sleeves will be more vol
luminous than ever, but with few ex-
ceptions they will not be exaggerated |
Reds and browns will be in force, |
especially among the tailors, and
stripes and spots are very noticeable |
among flannel gowns. Plain serges
in white, red and blue will be worn |
right up until the cold weather really |
begins.
A form of trimming to renew its |
stylishness is that of the jetted and |
spangled order. New sorts of this |
are offered. and jetted robes and !
trimming, both in spangles and bead |
work, are among the handsomest and |
most expensive of the seasons novel |
ties.
Gay trimmings are not to be lacking |
this fall and winter. The showing of /
new sorts is quite the equal in bright
ness and variety of the displays made
early last spring. Ribbons are very
handsome and are offered in stripes. |
plaids, checks, Dresden and serpentine
effect, plain and two-toned colnrs.
They will be used freely for trimming
gowns and fancy waists and for neck
wear.
A costume of ochre linen is effect
lively made with a skirt extremely
sweeping in cut and tucked horizon
tally. the tueks rising toward the back
at the top of the fiounee. The bolero
is cut low in front and short in the
back and has a scroll design OF stitch
ed linen edging it. The blouse &C
it is of tucked batiste of
ochre tint, with Irish guipure empiece- +
ments at the throat.
Tea gowns made on Charles /. lines
are of very light weight cloth, with a
soft girdle holding the fullness just
below the bust. The bloused short