The Washington times., 1901-12-29
ON THE GRAND CANAL
In FAMOUS VENICE.
"Queen of the Adriatic," As Seen
From One Of Her G6ndOlas.
UNIQUE AMONG ALL CITIES.
Floating ON Its Chief Artery Under
the Moonlight, with Song and
Music All Abeut-Palac"s and
Churches Centuries Old.

Like many other ltallan cltles pi HIS
toric fame, Venice has its magnificent
palaces, renowned cathedral and famous
courts. which, to the visitor, are OF great
interest. 1t is not those, however, which
first attract the attention OF the stranger,
for no sooner does he alight from the
train and find himself surrounded by gon-
doliers in fancy costume. whose boats are
lying one against the other ready to con-
yey him to the hotel, than the fascination
OF such marked change of scenery dis
pels all thought OF sightseeing.
One only wishes TO indulge in abso-
lutte recreation in a swiftly gliding gon-
dola from which he may watch the oecu-
pations and living OF the Tenetiaus.
The only city of its kind. Venice Is
always included in the itinerary of the
tourist if circumstances and conditions
permit; and. though the most agreeable
seasons are spring and fall, the heat of
the summer months is not oppressive and
the nights are cool. Its perfect immun-
ity from dust and its noiseless highways
are its chief advantages. yet the disturb
ing mosquito is very much in evidence,
nad almost every visitor, even after
stay Of only two or three days, shows the
MARKS Of these merciless insects.
steamers Not in Favor.
The islands which comprise the city OF
Venice number III. and lie two and one
half miles from the mainland. N the
Lagoon, shallow arm of the Adriatic
Sea The population in 1880 amounted TO
15S.000, and the Is, 900 houses and palaces.
buff on piles. arc about six and one-h4lf
miles IN circumference.
The numerous streets or canals are
connected by stone bridges. built so low
that only small boats can pass beneath
them The Grand Canal, the min artery
OF uaflc. resembles an inverted in
shape, and is fully two miles in length
with an average depth of 16 feet. 1t is
crossed by three bridges. and the hand
some houses and magnificent palaces ris-
ing on its banks have styled IT the street
Of the Nobili, the ancient aristocracy Of
Venice.
Of late years small steamers have been
plying on the Grand Canal. much to The
displeasure Of the Venetians. who. like
their European neighbors, are content
with the customs Of their ancestors.
Venice is the one OF all cities where the
march Of civilization. in its twentieth CEN
tuTy meaning, should be halted. Improve
inents TO the city that might even be Of
benefit in one way or another to the popu-
lace, would take away the tone Of the fas-
cinating surroundings which hold the
stranger spellbound and disturb tho quiet
solitude that prevails
No Noisy Carriages.
The industry OF Venice is practically
confined to shipbuilding, the making of
cotton and torpedoes, and the flourishing
production OF art objects for its annual
invasion OF strangers. The Venetian glass
industry, of very ancient origin, is still
carried on TO a great extent and the fac
tories are visited with much interest
For transportation one is wholly de-
pendent upon boats, and the skill dis
played by the boatmen in handling the
long gCndola around sharp corners and
through crowded canals cannot fail to be
recognized by the passenger. Boats used
for carrying freight. produce, and refuse
are heavy and cumbersome, but those for
the accommodation OF passengers are
light, shapely, and comfortable, with
leather cushions and neat trimmings. The
hotels have especially commodious Rondolas
for conveying guests to and from the sta
ton. Many OF the private gondolas are
handsomely constructed and upholstered.
These craft, which take the place Of cabs
In Venice were first heard OF in a doCu-
ment Of i0ei and are painted black in con-
fornity with law passed in the fifteenth
century. Their stands arc at Che differ
ent hotels and the railway station, and
many are always found waiting at the
Milo in front Of the Ducal PalacA The
fare is moderate. but varies according to
the length of time the gondola is used and
the humber ri rowers. For a gondola
seating from one to four persons. with
one rover. for the first hour, the modest
sum OF 20 cents Is charged, each additional
half hour 10 cents, besides q small fee
which is always expected.
A Never 10 he Forgotten Scene.
The rover himself IS hailed as "poppe"
from the poppa on which he stands at
the stern. To counterbalance his weight
is the heavy indented iron prov. or ferro,
resembling a halberd. used also as a
measure Of the height OF the bridges,
which cannot be passed unless the ferro.
the highest part OF the craft, clears them.
The visitor is fortunate, indeed. If dur
ing his stay In Venice there are bright,
moonlight nights. Truly fortunate. for
If he thinks the days pleasant. the nights
are doubly so.
There is no sight IN the world that is
more beautiful or impressive than the
Grand Canal by moonlight. Switzerland
has It's lofty snow-crowned Alps, which
impress the traveller with their grandeur;
Norway has rs dark, silent fords. which
seem 10 permeate the very atmosphere
about them with sense Of weirdness and
solitude; end ALASKA its great Muir
glacier. whose awful power and majesty
defy description. But IL IS the Grand
Canal Of Venice. with fits ripping. moon
lit waters; bordered by its tall. stately
buildings. once white, now blackened with
nge: dotted with its lantern-bedecked feet
OF gondolas, and pulsing with the soft
music OF the serenaders, that burns st.
self with the most indelible force into the
memory Of the visitor.
La sercnndn.
The Grand Canal OF an evening is dotted
with gandolas. brightly Illuminated and
decorated with Venetian lanterns. in
which are groups OF musicians and sing
ers. Residents and tourists, reposing
in their comfortable ggndolas. frequent
this watery tboroughfare for a pleasant
ride under the rapid and silent stroke Of
the rover. his oar never coming above the
surface OF the water Each party Of sere-
naders is visited. the gondolas completely
encircling H. one against the other,
which permits ''the man with the hat" TO
climb into each for small change.
The Piazza OF St. Mark, q square. paved
with marble, affords the most striking eyi-
dence OF the ancient glory Of Venice. II
is enclosed on three sides by imposing
huildings hlackennd by aPe and lie OLE