The Colfax gazette. [volume] (Colfax, Wash.) 1893-1932, 1901-07-12
WHEN AND HOW TO PRUNE.
In Winter For Wood Growth, In
Summer For Fruit Production.

In Winter For Wood Growth, In
Summer For Fruit Production.
There are many orchards well cared
for in every way except in the matter
of pruning, and this Is often sadly
neglected or improperly done, some
claiming that it is working against ma
ture to prune. IL we neglect II, na-
ture makes an effort to do it for us In
her only way-by causing the surplus
wood to die for want Of air and sun
light This is an Objectionable way Of
| pruning, as it leaves only dead scars
on our trees for life. The true prin-
| ciple Of pruning is to begin with the
| young maiden tree and give it light
| annual pruning when it can all be done
with the pruning shears. If this is
| then neglected and a tree allowed to
| grow as it will, we win have hard
work to get it in proper shape and will
| injure the tree more or less by cutting
| away large branches. Trees will form
a very nice looking head when young
with but little pruning, but before we
are aware Of it we have tree so dense
| that the inside wood begins to die, and
| it is impossible for the fruit to come
| to perfection.
This matter Of pruning Is neglected
| anil improperly done more than any
thing else pertaining to fruit culture
| Every kind of fruit and In fact nearly
| every variety of the same kind needs
a different method of pruning. A
| Clapp's Favorite pear might do fairly
| well with an occasional heading in, as
| it makes but little surplus wood, but
the same treatment applied to many
other varieties that make a surplus of
| wood, such as the Lawrence and many
others, would give us perfect brush
| heap.
The time OF pruning is not so impor-
tant as the method. 1t has been said,
'Prune whenever your tools are sharp"
| but l would not advise severe pruning
| when the trees are growing or are in
full foliage as cutting off much foliage
| has a tendency to weaken the tree
| somewhat. Where the work can be
done in short time March and April
| are preferable, but where there is much
to be done any time from the falling Of
| the leaf until it starts again in spring.
do not advise cutting off large
| branches in the fall and winter but
| where 1t is absolutely necessary to cut
| such they should be cut several inches
| from the trunk or large branch and
| then cut closely any time during June,
| when they will heal readily. or thew
may be cut close and the wound cover
| ed with a thick paint. This will in a
| measure prevent decay. All branches
| over an inch in diameter should be so
treated, or the wounds will decay more
or less. This is especially true on old
| as in younger trees.
There is no danger Of injury from
| pruning when the wood is frozen.
| Whenever the workman can endure the
cold the tree can. l have practiced
| pruning in every month Of winter and
| have never seen any injurious effect
| from it when the wood was frozen.
| Pruning when the tree is dormant in
| duces wood growth. Summer pruning
| induces fruit production and Is not
| generally to be recommended. In some
cases where trees are large and old
enough to fruit, but do not from ex-
| cessive wood growth, judicious sum-
| mer pruning might be advisable, but
must be done with caution.-Charles
| Black of New Jersey Horticultural So
cietV