The daily journal. (Salem, Or.) 1899-1903, 1901-03-22
WEEKLY NEW YORK
FASHION LETTER

Furnished to The Journal by the Bulletin Pres
| Advance News.
Dressy tailor gowns show everv pos
sible variation of the circular flounce
in rather narrow widths. 1t is tucked
stitched and strapped in every imagin
able way, one Of which shows a group o
tucks, very narrow, at the hem and
another group in the upper skirt whert
II laps on the hounce. The close fl
about the hips, prevails, which shows
that the slender, willowy figure will not
90 out of style for some time.'
The artistic style Of the present mode
OF dress is shown in black gowns Even
the morning gowns so much in demand
in London show this as concusively as
any others. There is no contrast VI
color in thom, yet by contrasting tex.
lures and elaborate designs the black k
gowns are really attractive, and very
fashionable also, whether one is in
mourning or not.
Mousseine and net are used together
and black crepes de chine are worn
by women OF all ages Where jet is
employed It is most effective on ma
terial with little II any gloss.
Black and white gowns will be es-
pecially good style in thin dresses. In
the batis;es, bareges, silk muslins aud
grenadines white spotted with black
is most desirable, II trimmed with
black lace insertion, which makes IL
more striking and yet perfectly gentee'.
Unusual and rather extravageht
combination black aud white gowns
are shown in black net over white lace
in a heavy quality, or the net may be
underneath the lace. The foundation
dress is white silk in either case and
the net, when il is the outside fabric,
is shirred in various ways around the
body at the waist, forming corselet
belt which extends well down on the
hip. in the form of yoke, and again
in cluster at b. Q knees. The lace
underneath is cut in Princess form
to avoid any superfiuous material
around the hips.
Shirrings and pufiings are distinctly
promised as a special feature of the thin
gowns, and one skirt model in silk
mousseline shows wide puffs, or rather
a shirring several inches apart, which
gives the effect of puffs, above a deep
fiounce. Lace insertion is set in between
the puffs at the head of the hounce and
in the upper edge as well.
The blouse waist will continue uni
veTsally worn. IL assumes every pos
sible variation in detail Of finish. and il
ID a question of taste and fancy as to
the trimming, wheather it is tucked,
strapped, stitched or trimmed with lace,
A point which should be particularly
observed by all women who are not
slender and tall is to have the blouse
and the skirt OF the same color, but not
necessarily Of the came material.
The most pleasing tLeatre blonses are
made of mousseline de- sole or chiffon
accordion plated, aud rarity covered
with bolero Of heavy cream lace. One
very attractive model il silk blouse
well open mp the front, Oiled in with q
plated vest of mousselue DE sole, over
which there is an open vest OF heavy lace
rolling back into deen shoulder collar.
The lace wastcoat l. rim ned down
either side 4 III h.. zol, lines OF mar
row black velvet rib' on er'ling on The
edge in thy Top and nail-hc'd but.
ton. Crepe de chine dot'ei over with
the nail-heads als make e LAY inner
vest.
Tasselled bows o. black velvet ribbon
loops are another feature Of decoration
and they seem 20 bl su.tsble io. all sorts
of purposes as lnish q. ,ne side Of the
bodice, the collar and the belt or ending
rows Of insertion on the skirt. This 10
we'll shown on a pink muslin gown,
striped vertically all around the skirt
with black lace insertion and Al the end
| Of each line little above the hem Il one
Of these loop bows.
The foreign fashion papers show
style which will be prominent among
the summer gowns. II is princess
overdress tucked around the waist, and
shaped fan fashion on the edge. The
material il a whole psnne silk patterned
with black, and the underskirt is white
tsffeta With a deep hOunce OF white
mopsseline de sole. TIE wide hchu'