The daily morning journal and courier., 1901-11-16
MORE LIVERIES WORN NOW
MISTAKES ON THE SUBJECT COM- MON IN NEW FORK.

English Laws of Livery Which
 Americans win Disregard Blum
 dexs That Mako Experts Sad New
 Fashions in Livery-From the Conch- sz man's Standpoint
 The use Of liveries is increasing throughout the United States. Where one family put it's servants into livery X fifteen years ago 100 families do it now. Even in New York, which has naturally enough always been far in advance of < any other American city In the matter, the Increasing use of liveries is sharp < ly marked.
 Horse shows are held in many cities nowadays and their effect is to promote \ the wearing of livery. Still, much of the American livery is more enthusiastic < than correct.
 There Is one wealthy man in New York who likes cheerful variety in his # servants equipment. Perhaps his wife < is responsible for the shifting lines of the livery
 At any rate instead of adopting a color and sticking to 1t through house < ltyeries, stable liveries, carriage Things, { etc. this family has bought its car- ( rlages and traps with an eye to break < Ing up monotony.
 There is victoria lined with maroon. The coachman and footman wear ma sroon livery With blue-lined trap, blue liveries come out The house liv- cries are green and scarlet gssg The livery makers protested helpless ( ly and pleaded for uniformity, but the x customer was firm. Hang the ex- < Espense!' was his motto and he couldn't grasp the idea that anything save ex- { pense could prevent a man from adopt ing all the colors of the spectrum for livery
 As a matter of fact, if a color is chos- zen for 3 livery that color should be
 maintained throughout the whole estab- lishment; and, unless this rule is follow ed the correct livery is black or dark Oxford mixture.
 With such Q livery the color of the carriage lining may be a matter of { choice, and many of the most fastidious owners of fine establishments choose sAxQ1Hch llN6TleS SOlelJ USCdu0U lACS SoiA- sfder them more swell than any color. ' The man who sells liveries must of ne- < cessity be a diplomatist. He must guide $ his customers gently into the ways of x pieastnness and liveried peace if possi- " bIe, but if they prove to obstreperous $ and insist upon their own theories, he must bow to the inevitable, smother his Z artistic conscience, and give them what { they want, with what notifications he s dares to makes.
 The head of g well known establish ment where the making of liveries is epeciAlty, sighed the other day, when asked whether the world went well with him,
 VI have just had customer" he said, .swho wanted livery for butler showed her an immaculate black dress suit That wasn't at all her idea.
 T suggested that nothing else was aerfect for a buffers wear. She scorn- ed me. She wanted something tasty and elegant She inclined toward Eng 81iph court boatman's livery but we fin ally compromised on a second mans livery, with striped yellow waistcoat and pipings.
 s.I've an idea her butler is a man of all work about the house, so the house servants outfit will not be too bad.
 European travel turns the attention Of good many families to livery. They come home glowing with enthusiasm over gold lace and gold braid, and want to make their servants look like a cross between a London beef-eater and a French beadle.
 NOf course, abroad, there is a good deal of what we call court livery, silk stockings, patent leather pumps with buckles, knee brooches with buckles fancy waistcoats, elaborate court coat powdered hair. That's all right if one can live up to it, but 1t Is the only gorgeousness admissible, and 1t is out Of place except in an extensive estab- lishment.
 If one doesn't want to go to that length, one must go in for the most severe and quiet smartness and ele- gance. Anything showy is In bad taste. X Even the few French departures from formal conventions are not considered correct in London or here.
 "New York Is gradually getting a large number of irreproachable liveries. The horse show has had a good deal to do with it. But one sees breaks every day.
 'eWhy, only the other morning I saw something on Fifth avenue that made me tired. Do you know what q sham overcoat is? Well, when the coachman and footman are not wearing their over coats they are folded over the back of the box seat.
 "Some people use sham overcoats They aren't correct. They are bad form but no one glancing at them can tell the difference. This turnout on Fifth avenue had the sham coats hanging over the seat and in addition both men had on their overcoats. Now, what do you think of that? The carriage be- longed to a family that should know better.
 "Then there are the cockades. New Workers will have cockades. You may tell them it is dead wrong, but they go n1errily on and have their own way.
 'No one who doesn't belong to the army, navy or diplomatic corps has any right to a cockade or to shoulder straps. It wuld queer a Londoner hopelessy to adopt them improperly, but Americans 5nr,t cera for livery law. They think |