The daily morning journal and courier., 1901-05-04

| lower town has grown up since mediae- val days, and consists of three distinct
 quarters-that directly surrounding the
 quays called the Marina, flanked on 1 either side by the suburbs Stampace
 and Villanova, making a very long, un- broken line of irregular buildings. The upper town, within the walls, known as
 irregular buildings. The upper town, | within the walls, known as Fl Castelo,
 IS the aristocratic quarter, the resi- dences of the Sardinian officials and , the seat of the principal public build
 ings, Access to it is by a winding road, excavated along the almost per
 pendicular face of the hill, directly un- 1 der the escarped heights. The road is
 planted with fine old trees, set in soil
 brought from afar; and though toil-
 some climb, it is the favorte prome-
 made of the people, as it always com mands breeze and a beautiful view of the widening gulf There are other routes from the lower town to the hill- | top-shadowy and eminently pictur- esque ways, but too wearisome for any but the stout-limbed nativees-up long | flights of steps and through steep, mar row alleys flanked by tall stone houses. Though Cagliari's population has never | exceeded thirty thousand-at least in modern times--it boasts more than fif- ty churches, all pretentious structures. The cathedral, in the very heart of the ancient town, was built by the Pisans, with materials furnished by the ruined basilica of Constantine. Fine marbles decorate the vast interior, and old paintings and stately monuments, The chancel is ascended by severan ranges of marble steps; and the crypt beneath the choir is held in profoundest rever- ence, as it contains the dust of two hundred martyrs, removed in 1867 from the church of St. Saturnius. Beneath the high altar-which is covered with massive silver and has statuettes of the same material--are three chapels; one containing the tomb of the wife of Louis XVIII, of France; another the tomb of Victor Emanuel T., by whose death the crown devolved to the reign ing branch of Savoy Carigan and the third devoted to the Bishop of Sardinia. The outside of this church is worthy of it's splendid interior. The tribune in front Is supported by four lions, crush ing various animals-an allegorical sym bol seen on nearly all Sardinian churches. The ancient ambones, on either side the main entrance, are re- marka ble specimens of Pisan sculpture. After century or two of building, the Aragonese kings completed this edifice in the year 1881.
 Every ane of the fifty odd other churches is worth visit but we have time to mention only that of St. Angus tine, which stands close by the oratory which the saint erected for his private use during his brief sojourn in this is- land. The peculiarity of this edfice is in one of the beams of It's roof. The builders found it much too short, and stated their dilemma to St. Augustine, who Heightened 1t by means not open to modern architects. Bidding the work men remember the text that all things are possible to those who have faith, he laid hold of one end of the beam and ordered them to pull on the other-when To. the great piece of wood easily stretched out to the required length. The bones of St. Augustine were brought here. A. D. 505,, from Hippo Regius (where he died) by the Catho-
 
 the Vandals, exiled from Africa. | These bishops, two hundred and twen- | ty in number, were supported by the | of Pope Symmachus, na- tive of Sardinia. The relics of the saint | in this church about two cen turies; then, owing to the peril which | menaced them from Saracen | invaslons, they were removed to Pavia | and deposited in it's Duemo; and less 1 than sixty years ago the French streets and promenades in upper Cagliari, all | wide, clean and we'll paved with gran ite. In the Corso Vittorio Emanuee bands play twice a week Running parallel with 1t Is the Strada San Mi chele. recently renamed Via Azuni where formerly the races took place. The old Pisan and Aragonese bastions have been converted into pleasant Taken altogether the cap- ital of this comparatively unknown and almost unciviized island is an immense surprise to the stranger from the other side of the world It has an admirable new civil hospital, fine university, founded in 1920, by Philip TIL, of Spain, and reorganized in 1764 by King charles EIldHuel, d llDTdTy OI twenty 1 volumes; a wonderful muse- nm of natural history and antiquities; md splendid acqueduct constructed ,y the same English company which ighted the city with gas. The acque- luct cost nearly four million francs, lnd few cities in the world are better supplied with pure water than rock bound Cagliari. The Palazzo Munich ,ale, standing next to the cathedral, las carved on its facade a long in cription, commemorating the visit of Charles V. in 1855, while on his expedi- ion to Tunis- Much more interesting s the quaint palace of the viceroys, af- CT the residence of the royal family, nd now occupied by the island prefect. Several railway lines, starting from his port, traverse the island in all di- ections. Besides four main lines, there a secondary system of narrow gauge pads. and two or three private rail- rays connecting with mines. The argest line follows the ancient Roman ighway, Strada Centrale, to Sassari, he second city in population and com- lercial importance, and the capital of forth Sardinia. The trip thereto, from nd 10 end of the island, among per act network of mountain ranges Is one f rare interest Besides the wild Sar- inian landscape, many towns are