The daily chieftain. [volume] (Vinita, Ind. Ter. [Okla.]) 1898-1902, 1901-02-07
POPULAR y.MBRoIDERIEs.
Pretty Desi' .ns That Are Now in Fa-
'" with the Devotees Of
Dreas.

The majority Of the embroidered
dresses just now are done on black
or ecru lace, though some are on silk
or satin; while good peau de sole
seems the fdyorite make, says fash
ion authority. BY lace must be un-
derstood the very wide valenciennes
All other nets turned out by Nor
man and Nottingham looms, many of
which take the entire length os
skirt and low bodice between the
selvedges. They are far too fragile
TO be stretched in frames, and are
simply tackled over the papers on
which the designs are traced. These
are so elaborate that several women
work at once on the same dress, or II
would never be finished in time, and
they are generally quite independent
OF the pattern in the net itself. Some
lay on straight or sinuous lines OF
black velvet. and others edge them
with gold or silver braid, or with
gold spangles, or tiny crystal beads,
or all three. Vast quantities of fancy
lace braids are also used, and delicate
chainstitch traceries in the finest
gold or silver thread. Many designs
are arranged so as to leave vacant
medallions. into which most exquisite
ly embroidered sprays of silken
flowers on gossamer-like gauze are
afterwards introduced. All is done by
swift vet dainty fingers that never
make false or a loose stitch, and,
as may be imagined, such work en-
crosses the whole attention. as the
least suspicion of drawing the thread
or puckering would be fatal.
Silken robes are cut and scanned in
10 shape and stretched in frames. The
favorite ornamentation just now is
groups of single sprays of roses, both
bud and blossom. and just enough TO
liage to give the graceful touch OF
nature, embroidered in such exquisite
shades that they are no doubt often
supposed to be painted. The connect
ing lines are done in tiny pallettes of
many sparkling hues. and the flowers
themselves are marvels of ingenuity.
Small petals Of pink or amber satin
are laid on the silk and then covered
with pulled morsels of white or pink
silk gossamer gauze to form raised
blossom. sometimes eentered or caught
down with single bead or spangle,
but there is no visible stitch.
Occasionally a chintz gauze is en-
ployed. and TO see it in the piece sug-
gests nothing so much as a translu-
cent slice cut out OF rainbow. In
the case Of . life-sized spray Of rose
leaves the underlay is green satin,
veiled with white gauze, and so deli
catelv veined and shaded with silk
as TO give all the effect of water
color.
Black and white for half mourning
is also in great demand. and the dress
executed in lace or gauze. with en-
pire designs. in sparkling lines Of jet.
silk and silver, and with motifs in
black or white satin or velvet, much
overlaid with white silk and fine che
mile. are legion. The materials for
these emhrOideries are got together
from all parts Of Europe and as care
fully collected as eUriOs. or even gems
A beautiful black lace skirt is covered
with design Of bunches OF lilac and
wisteria leaves. all in black p0illettes,
and very happy combination it is,
for the wisteria foliage Is graceful.
and that at the lilac is heavy
Aiguillettes or ~dangles" are con-
spicuous in the trimmings Of the day,
and they are made separately or in
groups. finished with gold. steel or Jet
ornaments.
Arabesque and other designs
wrought in the ~dented~ pearls that
so closely resemble real ones are
much used. and are 50 made that they
can be cut into complete separate
Darts. White and biscuit-eolOred cloths
are embroidered in ehsinstiteh with
silk and tinsel threads that are gor-
geouS when seen separately. but com
bine into q very subdued YET rich
looking whole. for the cuffs. lapels
and revers Of tsilor-msde gowHs-