The daily morning journal and courier., 1901-10-24

avoid the sand-hills. By and by you
 come to a little stream fringed with
 pink and white oleanders, which fol-
 lows the road all the way to the noun | tains. At a miserable clay village | called Fondack you pass the night, | pitching tents in the open if you have | them; or if not, patronizing the wret ch- ed caravanserai. The latter is an im-
 mense square building, containing a
 large, open court, with a colonnade
 around it, into which number of
 rooms open. These apartments contain
 nothing in the world but dirt and yer
 min, in the midst of which you are ex- pected to spread your rugs on the floor
 and snatch what sleep you can, with
 mules and horses stamping close by in
 the corridor, occasionally poking socia-
 ble noses in at the doorway. Your
 morning ablutions must be performed
 at the public trough where the animals
 drink; and as you have brought your
 own food, it Is safe to say that you will
 prefer to take it al fresco on the sandy
 plain. From Fondack the stony road is
 like cdimbing stairs, now straight up, now down over series of low but rug ged hills; until you reach the bridge which spans the Bou S'fihs river. Here you get the first glimpse of Tetuan. and the most picturesque scene in Moroc- co. Begert with a lofty wall set at short intervals with massive square towers, the city shows from the dis tance only a few mosques and heavy, drowning heap of masonry that forms the citadel. It occupies the slope of a limestone hill, two hundred feet above the river, which flows through 2 broad valley, rich with the most brilliant vegetation, Tetuan has a population of twenty-three or four thousand, mostly Moors and Jews. Before the Spanish war there were many Spaniards here, most of whom were killed, or have since found the place to politically un- comfortable to live in. The city was founded in 492 by the refugees from Grenada. some of whose proud descend ants still retain the title deeds of their ancestors vast estates in Andalusia, and the keys of their stately palaces in Grenada. Above the town Is the Kas- bah with a large space of open ground enclosed within the walls. The town is also surrounded by high walls and locked up at night. A good deal of the city In in ruins, having never been re- built since battered down by the Span ish guns. The streets in the Jewish quarter are the narrowest and dirtiest I have ever seen--so narrow that &C., tually two persons can hardly walk abreast between the houses and these lanes are further darkened by frequent arches thrown across. In the Moham- medan part of the town, which is are some very handsome foun- tains of running water in their exqui- sitely tiled court-yards, la Alhambra, and trellises fcovered with passion flowers and fragrant jessamina. Owing to it's suddenly dwindled popu- lation, house-rent is absurdly cheap in Tetuan, and one can obtain regular Aladdan's palace for almost nothing. herein the gunsmlths shops, which are said to be the best In Morocco; In the silk factories which turn out scarves, fajas and gorgeous handker- chiefs; and fin the potteries, situated in | caverns utside the town, where won derful Azuelos, or Moorish tiles, are | made, The views, too, are worth com | Ing far to see-green valley and glis- | tening river, gardens and olive groves, | anvironed by rugged hills and over -opped by Beni Hosmar the snow covered mountain. The climate of this part of Africa Is delightful the year 'ound, and particularly recommended | 1y European physicians for invalids with pulmonary complaints. The port ,f Tetuan, called Marteen, Is five miles 0 the eastward and a mile from the 1 Mediterranean, on river whose mouth s obstructed by the inevitable sand ,ar, It is guarded by a single tower, quare and lofty, and extremely pictur- sque, but hardly worth the journey to ook at in this land of picturesque ob ects FANNIE B. WARD.
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