Evening star., 1901-10-01
Table and Kitchen.
RETURN OF THE OYSTER AND
DAINTY WAYS OF COOKING.

One can scarcely say that the oyster
goes out Of season at the present time, as
they are to be found on bills of fare even
during the months when they are supposed
to be- and are, unfit for use except under
certain conditions. Some oyster planters
have perverted nature in order to supply a
limited demand to those who either con-
slider that they cannot have too much OF
good thing, or else prefer such articles of
diet as are not in common uses. There are
certain varieties of oysters, which, when
transferred from their native homes to
artificial beds, are so disturbed that they
cease to breed, and are, therefore, fit for
eating at any time. But these are enjoyed
by the few; we question whether they be
the favored few in this case, as the oyster,
spite of his delicacy and daintiness, pals
upon the discriminating taste when the
warm weather approaches.
Their WhOlesOmeness.
After a long and undisputed reign as a
most popular society favorite, recent Gis-
covery appears to have convicted the oyster
of being but a. common scavenger of the
sea; classed with the clam, scallop, lob
ster and crab. However this may be, we
can go back to the Greeks the most aes-
thetic feeders, for the patent of nobility
that marked the oyster in their day as one
of the elements of social existence, fit for
ing how short a time the piquant and
delicate flavor lasted when once the oyster
was exposed to the air, had them opened at
the table and ate them out of hand
1t is true that oysters have given rise IN
infrequent cases to serious inconvenience
to the eater. This occurs as web, occa-
sionally, from eating any kind of fish, ana
the fault is probably to be attributed TO
some unnatural condition of the food, or
what is more likely still, some disturbance
in the physical condition of the eater be-
fore the food is consumed, that may pc
aggravated by this class of food Ihe
lover of the oyster is loath to think evil or
this tid-bit from the sea- One must be
guarded however, in the selection of their
oysters If they dwell at any considerable
distance from the oyster beds. They must
be fresh and healthy. 1t is possible to keep
them so, with the many improved facil1-
ties for transportation, for a very con-
siderable length of time. The oyster may
be kept in the shell in a well-nourished
and good condition for days, and it is al
ways advisable for the inland consumer to
buy them in this way if they desire to
enjoy the flavor of the sea with the biValYe.
Cooking the Oyster.
They admit of as great a variety of
methods of cooking as the egg. True, the
approved method is not to cook them. Next
in favor comes the stew and this common
mode of preparation, while the most SIM
pie, is too often the least successful. Cooks
do not seem to be able to discriminate be-
tween a stew, a soup and oysters a la
creme and too often hit upon poor imi-
tation of a soup or the creme and fail
to strike the happy medium
Another atrocity too generally perpetrat-
ed on both oyster and eater is to place the
oyster after opening, on the plate and
cover them with an avalanche of Clipped
ice, rendering the oyster fiat and lnS1pld.
Why it does not occur to place the half
shells on the ice instead of under is
mystery
Another mistake too common in prepar-
ing the oyster is to overlook it; this makes
it tough and indigestible and robs it of it's
entire value. Oystes that are heated only
steaming hot or until the gills begin to
ruffie will be found to be sweet and tender
and readily digested. For invalids and del
iCate eaters always remove the muscle of
both oyster and clam
Do not use wine liquors with oysters
unless you are quite sure of your ability
to digest "tenpenny nails" When used as
a havoring, as in a Newburg, the result
is not so mischievous, as but a small guam
tity is used and added after the oysters are
cooked.
Oyster Stew.
Wash dozen oysters in their own liquor
until they are free from grit and bits of
shell; put them into stew pan, strain the
liquor through a fine sieve and add to the
oysters, place over a gentle fire and cook
until the gills begin to ruffle. Skim out the
oysters and place on hot dish cover and
keep warm Add to a cup of liquor a cup
of good cream and salt and cayenne to
taste. Rub two ounces of butter with q
level tablespoonful of flour and when the
liquor boils stir in the butter and flour and
continue to stir until 1t boils up we'll then
serve at once Have some little three-cor-
nered pieces of bread buttered and toasted
place them in the middle of the dish; lay
the oysters on them and pour the liquor
over them.
To Bake Oysters in Their Shell.
Open the oysters, reserving the deep
shells; remove the gills and muscle from
each oyster; then dip in beaten egg and
fine bread crumbs; season with salt, pep
per and a little celery salt. Put two oys-
ters in each shell and put piece of butter
on top of each. Put into a hot oven and
bake until they are steaming hot; squeeze
a little lemon juice over each and serve
Immediately.
Grilled Oysters Dreaded.
Dip fresh, large oysters in bread crumbs;
pat them out on a wen-greased oyster
broiler and broil two minutes on each side
Serve with maitre d'hoteI sauce Have the
bread crumbs seasoned to taste with salt
and pepper before covering the oysters.
Oyster Chartreuse.
Parboil pint of oysters In their own
liquor and drain; cook two slices of onion
with two tablespoonfuls of butter until a
delicate brown; remove the onion and stir
In two tablespoonfuls of flour; when smooth
add cup of oyster liquor and cook until
1t thickens; season with salt, pepper and a
little grated nutmeg. Line round mold
with plain boiled rice; put the oysters and
sauce in the center; cover with a layer of
rice; put on the lid and steam In a pan of
hot water in the oven for thirty minutes.
EscaIlOped Oysters.
Wash a quart of large oysters in their
own liquor and drain. Cover the bottom of
a buttered baking dish with bread crumbs;
on these place a layer of oysters; season
with finely minced parsley, celery, salt and
pepper; add another layer Of crumbs, then
oysters, seasoning and so on until all oys-
tiers used; having the top layer of