davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sea coast echo., 1901-08-31
THE PENALTY OF FAME


To be great singer requires many
sacrifices.
Melba never allows herself any sweets,
although she is passionately fond of
sweet things.
Sembrich cschews pastries, but con
tesses TO frequent and intense longing
ior things of this kind.
Nordica, while she does not absolute
ly taboo all sweets and rich dishes. has
allowed herself little indulgence in such
things since she became singer.
Emma Eamcs is very strict about her
diet, and her daily life is laid out by rules
from which she seldom divergcs, no mat
ter how great the temptation.
She never sees any one, or reads any
letters or kilograms the day she is TO
sing, either at matinee or an evening
performance, and she never accepts any
invitation Tor the evening before Every
DAY, no matter how disagrecable the
weather she goes for walk
Almost all singers remain indoors in
the morning, either resting or practising
and do not SO out until after o'clock,
Calvc once declared that she was pin
ing to sit down to a big, rich. hearty
workingman's dinner where she could
eat Just what she wanted, without ever
having to think about consequences or
having any one remind her that she had
voice.
Patti has sacrificed everything to her
talent. Il owe the preservation of my
voice to the fact that never allow my,
self to forget that | am a singer" she
has said. 1T is often inconvenent, but
1t IS the penalty | must pay for a great
The sea coast echo., 1901-08-31

May Manton model illustrated Is both
simple and elegant and is suitable
alike to the odd bodice and the entire
costume. The original is OF white taf-
feta with cream gulpure lace and IL
designed for wear with odd skirts, but
Louisine silk, crepe de Chine, pannc
and all the soft.hnished silks are suit.
able, while countless materials might
be suggested for the entire costume.
Wool crepe Is charming, etamine e
fashionable. Albatross is much used
and both linen and cotton materials of
the finer sorts are In every way appro.
PIRATE with trimming or needlework
or lace as preferred,
The foundation Is fitted lining. On
1t are arranged the tucked vest front.
the fronts proper and the back. The
front is tucked to yoke depth and falls
In soft folds below and the fronts prop.
or arc laid In three tucks each ut the
shoulders and drawn in slight gathers
at the waist line. The lace trimming
Is cut In points and arranged to give
walstcoat effect that is quite novel and
smart. The sleeves are In bishop style
with deep pointed cuffs of lace and the
stock collar, also of lace, finishes the
neck.
To cut this waist for woman of me.
dium size four yards of material TWEEN.
ty-one inches wide. three yards TWEEN
ty-seven inches wide. two yards thirty.
two inches wide or one and five-olghth
yard forty-four inches wide will be re-
quired, with seven-eishth yards OF ell
over lace to trim as illustrated.
The sea coast echo., 1901-08-31
SUBJECT OF Innings.

There's the usual interest in cheap
Innings.
Beside the fair ones who are forever
trying to find that always promised but
never forthcoming substitute for silk,
there IS at this season real use for
these more or less silky fabrics. which
are invariably proclaimed to possess
every silten virtue and not one OF the
vices TO which silkdom is heir.
We admit that these substitutes m.
cheap, and that they vii, NOT crack; but.
alas they would never be taken for
silk.
But to the real use: Many of then,
serve admirably as foundation sims for
the sheer summer frocks now being made
i'll such quantities. To be sure, many of
us cling to lawn when 4 cheap lining IS
desired, but under some goods the satin
or silk-fnished Innings look better.
There's only TO try the effect aud then
10 decide. One must set down, however,
that the sheer dresses. such as organdie,
require an extra outer slip of the same
material.
For instance. lowered pink orcandie
to be at its best, must have an extra
slip directly under it of plain pink or
candle. II the dress be Of plain pink the
slip is best made OF the same. Lastly
comes the foundation ship proper, which
may be of taffcta or any of its new-fan-
gled substitutes. or of lawn.
II some paid more attention to Innings
and slips they woaid have fewer sar-
torial failures, One great thing to guard
The sea coast echo., 1901-08-31
coIored FIaepoles,

white is, of course, still the prevail
ing color for painting ilagpolcS," said
fagpole man, but you see nowadays
more colored hagpolcs than you used to,
and don't know but what like the
colored flagpolcs pretty well. White IS,
/ suppose, after all the proper color for
llagpole. The white pole seems to
stand up more mast-like and defiant, but
the colored pole is more picturesque
The poles that thus far have been
painted in other colors than white have
most of them been painted red, terra
Gotta red. And in my judgment this
deep red is pretty good color for q
flagstaff. Red is good color to stand
exposure; it shows wear less than white
does, and so people paint 'em red.
"As to green. that ] must say seems
at first like an odd and inappropriate
color for flagstaff surmounting build
ing. Nevertheless, a pole in dark green
may be dignihed and slightly object
and there is one advantage pertaining
to a green pole, namely, it shows on
the gilt top-pieee, if there is one, to hne
advantage. have in mind one dark
green pole upon the summit of which,
rising above the gilded metallic fixture
indicating the points of the compass,
a fine, gilded eagle, this whole top-pief1e
of gold showing very strikingy and el-
fectively by contrast with its dark green
support. '--Ncs0 York Sun.
The sea coast echo., 1901-08-31
wo,nan's Tucked Shirt waist.

The tucked shirt waist has an ex-
tended vogue, and Is well deserved
favorite for all the thinner washable
materials as well as for Albatross,
wool crepe, similar wool fabrics and
soft simple silks. The May Manton
model shown Is exceptionally becom-
Ing and eminently smart. The original
is made of white linen lawn and is un-
lined. but all cotton and linen wasting
materials are appropriate made In n
similar manner, while wool and silk
are eminently satisfactory made over
the fitted lining. AS illustrated the
waist is Worn with collar of the ma
terial, stock, tie and belt of Liberty
satin. The fronts are laid In narrow
arms'-eyes, the first three being con-
tinued to the waist line while the re-
mainder are left free at pointed yoke
depth to form soft folds below. The
sleeves are in bishop style tucked from
the shoulders to within a few inches OF
the wrist, where they are let to form
becoming puffs. The wrists are finished
with straight pointed cuffs that lap
over at the seam. At the neck Is deep
straight collar finished with turn. over,
or protection, portions.
To cut this waist for woman of me-
dunn size four yards of material twen-
ty-one inches wide, three ard three.
The sea coast echo., 1901-08-31
BlS0
sNS-BHs OF FENlNlNlTy-
AS SSSasiSEs; ;sss,sszEA

n very stunning outing hat for sum-
mer shows felt crown and a straw
brim, both white and trimmed with a
soft Persian silk scarf.
White waists are more TO the fore
than ever, and they have embroidery
and lace tucks, and insertions without
number.
White with touch Of briliancy lent
by Persian embroiderics is a conspicuous
tavorite of the best designers, and daring
hitS OF contrast make feature of Paris
gowns.
Lace tounceS arc once more the height
OF fashion, and handsome gowns are
again made with two or three of these
counted on satin foundation for the
skirt.
Red silku are to enjoy a great vogue
during the coming season. They are
either shot with white or have an ir-
regular pattern, are in two shades of
rod, or in red and black.
Chiffon is used in many of the pirdles
Tor drcsSy gowns it is laid in full folds
on tatfeta foundation; the latter does
not extend further than the knot in
front, then the two chiffon ends fall
below the knees and are finished with
silk fringe or tassles of gold.
Tor a petticoat to wear during the
summer there is probably nothing cooler
than thin silk or light weight alpaca,
these, of course, where service as well
as coolness is desired. Very pretty wash
ones are made of fine madras and mer-
cerlzed linen, in fresh. delicate colors.
There is new China silk which i,
distinguished by perpendicular lines OF
open work, like drawn work, with a
dainty interviewer design. This is es-
pecially attractive with yoke and deep
mitten-shapcd cuffs of lace. the lace
threaded with narrow velvet ribbon in
any color desired
This is to be season of ruffies Quite
number of the new fancy waists are
made with frills down the front, some
times single narrow one on the edge of
the lap, sometimes a broad ruffle. and
sometimes two and facing opposite ways,
so full as to form jabot and concealing
the fastening of the bodice.
The sea coast echo., 1901-08-31
Paris Ii Not Common.

There are people who assert that OF
late years Paris has become common.
What an error II is still as pictur-
csque, as romantic, as extravagant, as in
the best days of its past. Paris remains
the strange town where the most in
credible paradoxes are verified. where the
most foolish dreams are realized, and
where all that is good, bad and indiffcr-
cnt may still be found. The other day
q madman was found in hollow pillar
that supported the principal gate leading
to the exhibition. Recently the police
discovered a Diogenes testing the cold
on the Place de la Concorde, looking
for the cold, with the thermometer regis
tering eight degrees of frost. A rich,
well-to-do, Diogenesi
In contradistinction Of this. there are
hundreds who live in huts outside the
city, huts that Kaffir would scorn to
live in. There are the hundreds of vaga-
bonds who have, as Ruy Bias, God for
their host" and who seek shelter in
buildings under construction in any and
every nook not already occupied. Why,
only a few days ago. when some men
pitched a basket into wagon at the
Central market, out rolled a man. 1T
is |, Jean," growled the voice. didn't
you know me1" They did not know
him. The man had slept in a basket
at the market for the last ten days.
For people to talk of Paris as having
become common is absurd. Paris is still
Paris.--Paris Messenger.
The sea coast echo., 1901-08-31
The costermonger,s Fight For lie

The London costermonger is an in
stitution whom we should not willingly
let die. strong movement is on foot
to get HIM removed as nuisance by the
new borough councils, and he is organiz-
ing to hight 1t. As there are sixty thou
sand OF hun in London, he has a chance
of winning. His chief value for those
who do not deal with him lies chiefly
in his independent attitude toward Lon
don life. His characteristic dress has
been made familiar to us by Mr.. Che
valier, and is modelled on 4 style that is
absolutely his own; the rich eruption of
buttons all over the coat and along the
seam of the trousers, as well as she gen
erous downward ampiiicaiion OF the lat
ter garments. are, we believe, the fruit of
bis owr. wayward fancy,
As to his wives and daughters, they
have the distinction of being the only
persons who use plush as a dress ma
Ierial. sometimes for the whole costume
often in the form of short cape, always
as decorative trimming. Their great
hats, crowned with brilliantly dyed fea-
thers, are Just as peculiar; and we hear
with pain the rumor-we hope it is no
more-Set aiioat by contemporary, to
the effect that these are being discarded
in favor of what ladies have agreed to
call a sailor" What coster lady can
dress decently upon is as much a matter
OF dispute with them as it is with us
but gentleman can obtain a suit OF
stylish cut, with copious 'pearly'' but
tons of horshoe shape, for the sum OF
thirty shillings, which may be paid in
monthly instalments.--London Neavs.
The sea coast echo., 1901-08-31
PAPER coFFINs.
The Invention OF a Brooklyn Physician,
and Said to be a Success.

"One of the latest things in paper
said dealer, lis coffins. The manufac.
turers are now prepared to turn out an
article in the way of coffin which meets
all the requirements expected from a
piece of furniture of that kind,
The paper coffin has stood all the
tests, 1t has been demonstrated to he
waterproof fireproof, acid proof-in fact,
indestructible. In its cheapest form il is
so per cent cheaper than the plain pine
boxes for the Potter's Field interments
and It is 50 per cent. better.
Then, again, very handsome paper
collins are made. You can make the pre-
pared paper stock take any form YOU
wish and adorn il with all varieties of
mountings and ornamentalism. An ar
tistically treated paper coffin NAV be
made to look like the finest rosewood or
oaken casket.
1T was Brooklyn physician who
hrst conceived the idea of making cof-
ms ont OF paper. In addition to being
a physician this gentleman was a specu-
lator He made good deal of money
dickering in real estate in BROOKLYN.
With this he went up into the Adifon-
dack region to spend the rest of his DAYS
and tinker at chemistry, which was one
of his hobbies
1T was in that way that he got filed
Up with the paper coffin idea. Studying
the paper stock in the mills up there he
convinced himself that it could be so
treated with chemicals that it would
make capital coffin material. People
laughed at him at first. They thought
he was only throwing his money away
with his experiments. But he knew
what he was at and kept on at his work.
The result was that he won out and has
made a lot of money He had just sold
his patents to large manufacturing
combination for handsome sum OF
ready money and royalty on every
paper coffin made. II means a big for
tune to him.--Neao York San.
The sea coast echo., 1901-08-31
Poor Hetty Green

There is a shoemaker who lived =,
one time in Far Rockaway, who has a
stock story to tell of the melancholy
time when he cheated himself There
lived in his neighborhood a poor woman
who had rented one of the summer cot
tages which she was able to hire at A
low sum for the winter because no one
else would take it. She lived in only a
few rooms of the house, the kitchen
and little room out of it, dining room.
where she had small smoky stove
which had gradually darkened the walls
to cloudy gray Everything about the
house was of the simplest, even of the
poorest, and the kind-hearted shoe
maker felt sorry for the poor woman
who lived in this uncomfortable fashion.
She brought him shoe to mend one
day. He did the work in his best fash
ion, and when she came for it refused
the money.
1T is nothing, madam" he said, cheer
fully. Il was glad to do it." The wo-
man thanked him and left.
why didn't you charge herr" asked
an astonished witness of the scene
"She is such poor woman | didn't
like to" answered the shoemaker, apollo
getically.
"PoorP cried the spectator. "She is
the richest woman in this country. That
was Hetty Green. n."--Ne1o. York Times
The sea coast echo., 1901-08-31
USES OF TURF FIBRE.
A Material For Ropes, Rugs and Other
Eabyles

Fabrics
The use OF turf fibre In the tnafiu-
facture Of various fabrics IA the subject
OF an interesting report from Frank w.
Mahin, United States Consul at Reichen.
berg. He says that the early experiments
with turf, soihe ten years ago. were ,ih-
satisfactory The ibres then obtained
were not good spinning material. being
hard and brittle and hot easily bleached
or colored. Later, civil engineer
named Zschorner. in Vienna, succeeded
in extracting threads from turf which
proved to be good spinning material.
Zschorner worked by a dty process, iifi-
aided by chemicals, and succeeded Id
producing kind OF. wool which,
though hot adapted to the spinhihg Of
fine yarn, is yet so flexible and elastic
that large fabrics caf be made there
from. II Is characterized also BY great
absorptivity, Is poor heat conductor
does hot burn readily, and Is moderately
firm and very cheap,
Zschorner hext produced turf wad-
ding. This is used as bandages for
men and animals in cases of wounds and
the like, and also as filling for pillows
and bed-coverings. Then he wove turf
yarn into ropes and rugs, The remnants
which resulted served for the produe-
ton Of paper and pastcboard
Karl Geige, In Dusseldorf, has gone
still further, He has secured from turf
fibre fine spinning material. which has
absorptiyity, and which also may be
blesehcd or colored. After extracting
the vegetable Substances, Geirge treats
il with acids aid alkales, and then boils
the resulting liquid, whereby the cells are
disorganizcd and useless substances re-
leased and washed out, so that the turf
wool consists Of almost pure cellulose.
ltis affirmed that the Geige turf wool
is soft and elastic, with all the good
of rival products, and in its
spinning capability resembles sleeps
wool Turf cloth, II is claimed, absorbs
in summer, and is warm in
winter; felt hats are made out of the
turf wool. 1t is further stated that
Gcige make out Of turf wool Smyrna
and other rugs, which are bleaehcd and
colored In addition to all this. the
Geige turf wadding, il is maintained,
is not only cheap, but very useful
bandage material, because it readily
nbsorbs the sccretions OF wounds, which
are therefore kept always dry and clean
II is further recommended as a sub
stance for laying under very i'll persons,
and as a padding for splints,
The sea coast echo., 1901-08-31
RUBBER CULTIVATION
'Iansaslons Increasing In Me,lo.
Africa. aau

"The cultivation OF rubber ~.
by the wasteful methods OF The 'y.,p'ed n.d
On the upper Amazon, in Cen,,.n, n,a.lses
erica, and the East Indies whn Am.
down trees to drain the milk o,,;o,.,sh %o ,shop
foolish notion--promises TO be bsa'S-a sn
portant industry some day, and nan,n ~ IN
already derive profit from il. Tha Tha''sis ",
est plantation IN the world is w ~ od.
Pamanukan-T Tjiassem estate, in ,he se
denee Krawang inJava. II was s .,s Mesl,
in 1864 from plants OF the Fisrrs a,'ed ~,
tica. In 1903 its seventy-two ass,s eias-
many trees to the acre, producSd
pounds of pure rubber OF val,%s5i
$4,2I3 above expenses. Imnor,a.e oi
crude rubber from Para make livb, " =,
the Nicaraguan and Mexican Man. "
tons. Why cultivate rubber thew a,'sa' wa
when you can 60 into the fores, and &
itf They declare that millions ~ t su
in the Amazon basin and the c0u' uv''
Free State have never been tanned
will endure for generations. Neys,th.u u
less, the Congo government. bv 4.
cree OF February as, 1900, REQUIRES ~,
for every ton OF rubber taken on, 'a' 10
nually $50 trees shall be planted NJ NJ
caragua offers premium for the cu6S,
tion of rubber, and has intcrdictrd ~.
gathering OF Il in the national io,s,,. wy
for exportation. In Peru the 'caucbs,o.,
have destroyed so many trees that T.
ports from lquique have greatly declirsd
In the East Indies restrictive legisl,,,o.
is general. But, after all, the ouestOa
with the planter is whether culiiya,io"
will pay. Such is the demand tha, ~
can sell every pound he produces, TN
uses Of rubber are illimitablc. In M.v
leo and Central America the tree yrown
is the Castilloa elastica of the paiivs
forest. which nourshes in a rich, but NJ,
wet soil, like the smaller Hey,'
brasiliensis of Amazonas, Senior Io,s
Horta, of the city of Guatemala, an ~.
perienccd agriculturist, calculates that
-year-old plantation will produ,s
double the amount expended during th,,
time, taking into account that for seyro
years there Is no yield OF milk. He say,
that the net annual product will be n.
comparably more remunerative than tha,
which coffee under the best and mos
favorable circumstances can yield. DIR.
ing the seven years of waiting, he ad.
vises the cultivation of vanilla simuI.
taneously. A plantation in Mexico pro.
duccd in 1900 10000 pounds of rubber
In the neighborhood of Bluefelds, NJ
caragua, there are some promising plan.
tations. Current expenses are light, for
labor is cheap and the trees require little
care. But cash and patience arc necdful
for success. Our Department Of Agri.
culture, it is worthy of note, is preparing
to give its attention to the cultivation
of rubber in the Philippines" IN. I
Armstrong in di,iSicc'S.
The sea coast echo., 1901-08-31
War On Innr SkirA.


A campaign against long skirts has
been opened by the Munich medical pro-
fession. One physician has found the
most terrible bacilli in the trail of his
wife's skirts. Another examined the
sweepings in concert hall after the
audience had left, and found enough
tuberculosis bacilli to poison regiment,
A third examined drawingroom after
his wife's reception, and found dreadful
things swept in by the women's skirts.
In Dresden similar movement is
afoot. A committee of the Town Coun-
Gil has passed instructions to the police
to fine any woman seen in the street
with trailing skirts. This resolution
is to be subject to debate in the full
conceive of the municipality.
An American woman writing to one az
the local papers says: Il never heard
of anything more ridiculous. A strong
wind in half an hour will set more bacilii
in motion than all the skirts in Germany
do in a year" Munich Dispatch to the
Chicago Chronicle.
The sea coast echo., 1901-08-31

Never more in demand than now is
the turnover shoulder collar of fine
batiste with insertions of needlework
or lace. Some are expensive. others
quite reasonable" The collar bor-
dered with cluny lace requires no in
sertion or trimming. The material is
transparent or nearly so, and looks
as IL it would go to pieces in the wash.
What is the surprise of the possessor
to see the fine collar return from the
wash as good as new. without weak
or worn spot and as fresh as possible.
or course, the collar was not thrown
into the tub of other household linens,
but washed separately with warm, not
hot, water and lathcr of soap.
The sea coast echo., 1901-08-31
He look his Rasa.

4 dignifed, stylishly dressed man was
walking down Michigan avenue one
bright noon hour when the lake front,
north OF the Art Institute, was filled
with clerks and employees from the vari-
ous business houses in the neighborhood
playing baseball.
The balls were flying thick through
the air, and one flew over an amateur
catcher's head and struck the dignified
person hard thump in the back.
The dignified gentleman whirled about
in righteous anger and his face cleaned
with wrath as he sought to find words
to convey his opinion of the ball tossers
But the catcher who had missed the ball
merely laughed and shouted out to the
dignihed man: That's all right. Take
yer base"
The dignified PERSONS anger melted
away and his face softened into smile.
That's So" he said, II do get base
for being hit with a pitched Ball. don't
II And he turned around and walked
away chuckling. Chicago Tribune.
The sea coast echo., 1901-08-31
The Foulard scArrs Successor.

The dotted foulard scarf as a hat
trimming is becoming bit wearisome,
but the Persian -bordered kerchiefs are
undeniably smart. and as the accom-
paniment OF the tailor-made. gown for
morning or country wear 1t has GER
tain charm. A large silk handkerchief
is tied round the high crown, the ends
passed through the brim in front and
tied In large butterfly bow. the brim
being turned back right or the face.
With these hats, which are turned
back from the forehead. the hair re-
quires to be pulled well forward and
turned back In puff. only stray curl
or Incorporating on tho forehead
The sea coast echo., 1901-08-31
Panel Eneei. and curye..

Lines of length, long panel effects
and sweeping down.pointing curves
are given to gowns formed OF the new
SIR anu satin foulards. tafretas. figured
veilings, creps de chine and other pat
termed spring fabrics by the use OF
SIR, satin and velvet ribbon trimming.
Insertion bands and graduated designs
OF silk applique, arranged upon the
skirt to lmpart the appearance Of sien.
derness and height OF figure which Is
still the sine qua non Of all fashlonably
gowned women.
The sea coast echo., 1901-08-31

the empiecements of lace which trim
our sleeves and bodice. Instead Of
allowing the material of the bodice to
show through the meshes Of the lace
the pieces are lined with either silk
or linen OF the same shade as the
lace--beige, cream. ccru or string col
or as the case may be. This looks
rather cooler than II the color OF the
dress, presumably darker. showed
through the interstices. It is con.
sldered rather more distlngue than II
tho lace were used over "transpar-
ont"