davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-08-04
SHORT SKIRTS ARE NOW
THE REGULATION MODE.

WRITTEN FOR THE SUNDAY
For summer morning wear the fashion
has suddenly come into favor of having tho
skirts made short enough to clear the
ground. fiaring so that the general effect Is
much the same as though they were long
The pique duck. linen. and even light
weight cloth skirts made in this style are
50 much more comfortable that II is only
surprising that they were vetoed. Colored
linens. red or blue. are considered very
with white shirt waists. although
not 60 new as the shirt waist Of lighter
weight and a shade lighter I'm color than
the skirt. and for this purpose the mer-
cerized wash materials are greatly In de-
mind. All the different shades of blue are
very popular. and II is quite a question
whether the light or dark blue Is the best.
The entire red gowns are somewhat strfk-
ing and conspicuous. but the belt ribbon of
black or white tones down the general ef-
feet. Black pique or duck skirts arc only
worn for mourning. and are most simply
made. Thev do not look well now with
black waists. but require the white waists
with either white or black belt and neck
ribbon. With these short skirts and shirt
waists everything must be in keeping.n no lace
ties. no fancy belts OF sashes being permis-
sible. but rather the stiff necktie and plain
ribbon belt. or. smarter still. a simple leath-
er belt quite narrow and the same color as
-. "oA1ts ~ tHt COloL IuEu
skirts and waists to match are worn the
brown or white leather belt is the best.
The skirts OF gowns to be worn in the
house or for afternoon receptions, ETC., are
an extra quality. long as ever. and are like
ly to remain so for some time to come. and
IL certainly must be conceded that a long
train skirt IS always more becoming to a
woman than the short skir,. excepting for
street wear. All the trains If the skirts,
unless made of some exceptionally heavy
fabric. are lined. Those of the crepe de
chine gowns have a lining of black surah
or India silk. the idea being to give only
the necessary weight without in any way
detracting from the graceful soft folds into
which crepe de chine falls. Satin skirts are
always improved by a lining of thinnest
flannel or even albatross cloth. and II Is re-
markable to see how much richer and heav-
Ter the satin looks when IL Is lined. All the
skirts of the handsome gowns have sflk
drop skirts. not 50 long as the outside skirt.
but stiil long. and trimmed with ruffies
and hounces. and are Joined to the outer
skirts at the ~waistband. which. by the
way, should be finished with n small round
end and a bias facing so as not TO add any
thing to the size of the waist.
Many Of the dressmakers now make the
skirts to be worn over the waists. and with
q narrow folded stitched belt on the skirt.
finished with small buckles In front and 1t
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-08-04

Uhrig's a was the matinee girls most
popular summer playhouse. There's n pa
v1lion theater at the end Of almost every car
division now. where you can find most any
thing In the line Of the drama from Ca
mile and THE Silver King" with prop
erty SHOWS. to comic opera and vaudeville.
Uhrig's Cave and Roster & BiaI's in New
York closed the same week Many now
famous entertainers won their first recog-
milton in one or the other of those we'll
known summer theaters.
Tho curtain went down at Roster Il Bia's
because the manager. John Roster, thought
1t best to give w his old site and establish
a new playhouse further uptown. There II
much speculation As to why Chrig's Cave
closed. Nobody seems to know. but a
chorus girl volunteered a quotation from
Tom Sawyer"
MY brother used to read Tom Sawyer
to me- she said. "and I remember a very
wicked man who called himself The
Duke When things went wrong his ex-
PLANTATION was always, Trouble did II. Blse-
water j guess The Duke would have
said the same thing about the Cave"
EDWINA DE BAR
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-08-04
SHOPPERS WHO DISPLAYED
R0LLED-UP WAIST SLEEVES,

Several shoppers have this summer dis
played the rolled up shirt waist sleeves tina;
the golfng girl for some seasons past has
INDUCED in, not for goling alone, by am
means Women have been seen with the
sleeves rolled Up for travelling. In a dig
nihed uptown restaurant the other day n
girl. otherwise irreproachable in dress and
appearance. sat lancbinS with her shirt
waist sleeves rolled mp. The girl was alone.
So far as Is known. the most radical seeker
after comfort has not yet looser.d her cuff
links and turned back he- cuffs when
lunching with a man. The shirt waist tc
this case was In crisp tabernacle white
linen; the sleeves were rolled up well above
the elbow. 1t was Iatu-a, 10 suppose that
the girl was engaged in carving some tough
morsel. requiring extra muscular effort. Not
a bit of Il. Her knife AMI fork daintily
shredded a soft-shel crab.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-08-04
PRETTY EFFECTS IN FANS.
Airy Norhings" Are Now Made to Harmonic With Toilets-Song
Parties May Become Fashionable-Uhrigis Cave
Was the Matinee Girls Playhouse.

WRITTEN FOR IN r.; SUNDAY
Color schemes in fans. like flowers in the
tenements. are beautiful in ar
way.
The gardens and restaurants furnish an
object lesson in such "airy n~othings' and
never. surely. have they been daintier or
more artistic since the days when the
charming women whom Vatican loved to
paint hirted with the fans his graceful tai
ent adorned.
i will tell you some OF the pretty effects
] saw at a well-known cottage the other
night.
There was color in abundance. the music
WAS operatic and excellent. and as a study
in artificial zephyrs the scene was several
times worth while.
One young woman in pink and white
foulard airily waved a fan of white silk
sauze on which were painted pink roses
so natural In appearance that they seemed
in danger of blowing away.
1t was attached by a threadlike silver
chain, with pink coral beads at intervals.
to a slender bracelet OF alternate square
links OF silver and coral. The fan SO
harmonized with her toilet that many wom-
en- gazed with something like envy.
With her was an older woman. smartly
attired In the thinnest and finest of black
crepe de Chine. who swayed n butterfly az
fair from the land of chrysanthemums.
On a black background sported a number
cI uopicauy CoiOred butterffies. with Sill
very spaDgles powdered in the black places.
The fan lent Just the touch of brightness
needed to complete the effect of the cos
tune. whose only relief from the somber-
ness OF black lay In the pink roses Of the
little toque.
Another demure young person in heliotrope
etamine carried a fan which was wholly
covered with violets-real violets. !; seemed
small for practical use. and one was COM
PEELED TO believe that il was "A mere CO.
quetush pretense. but II was also undeni-
ably chic and effective.
One pretty girl in white. favored by ma
ture with golden hair that dog days tenn
p%erature makes fiufier than ever. set the
curls dancing around her face with a fan
OF pale green. adorned with a -sketchy- de-
sign OF mauve and yellow orchids that cx-
tended down on the green enameled sticks.
Gilt spangies were Distributed judiciousiy
over the green background
Among the other fans that were sufficient
~ distinctive to catch the eye was one of
white parchment, the sticks Of which were
OF ivory with silver inlay. A scroll design
OF red and white spangles bordered the
parchment. and button chrysanthemums.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-08-04
CLAY MASSAGE AS A
COMPLEXION BATH.

Al a number of the summer resorts this
season, the new mud treatment for the
complexion will be used by the pretty girls.
This is an old cure for skin troubles. Ii Is
but an application Of the Roman face mask
that made the a~ncients famous for the
Wilderness Of their skins. Clay Is best for
this. It Is moistened and made into a paste.
When hot water IL used. the mask sweats
the face and has the same effect as the
Turkish bath. The mud IL spread over the
face and neck and allowed to dry. Then 1t
is washed on with tepid water. after which
an astringent wash is used. When the
treatment is tried at night, a cream should
be used. A mask tina is quite as good as
the mud. and much mere pleasant to use,
is made by beating up an egg and mixing
II with almond meal. This should be al
lowed to dry. the process requiring ABOUT
half an hour. Summer is the time when
a~stringent washes should be used daily. as
an ounce Of prevention Is worth a pound
OF cure in the case Of tan and rreckles-
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-08-04

shading from pink to deep red. were painted
upon 1t In an artisticaIly loose arrange
ment.
A white gauze fan that was bewitchingIy
delieats had painted sweet peas for deccra-
tlon. even on the sticks This idea OF con-
ttnting the decorative design upon the
sticks is decidedly novel and highly cf-
fective.
Somewhat bizarre. yet unquestionably dis
tinguished, vas enc Of black gauze with q
spangled design that suggested Onenta
jewelry. Red. green and gold spangles gilt
tered In festoons and diamonds over the
dark surface in a striking and effective
way. Strongly In contrast was one near
which was Of white gauxe with delicate
mauve orchids painted thereon.
Brilliant and beautiful was a fan Of pale
turquoise silk with an embroidered design
OF fieur-de-lis. The ivory sticks were inlaid
with gold. This Was held by a slender gold
and turquoise chain
Song parties may become fashionable in
St. Louis this fall as a novelty in evening
entertainment. The idea II new and not at
all impossible. With each invitation sent
out the hostess incloses a little note inviting
her guest to dress 80 as to represent a
classical or popular song.
After the costumes or those attending
nave been mutually Coup4Ieos tue 6muSe-
ment lies in guessing the names Of the
songs thus chosen
l recently attended "A Paul Dresser" aft
ernoon song party. With three exceptions
those present appeared in costumes sugses
tive Of Dresser compositions.
Perhaps the funniest makeup was that of
the visitor who recalled Just Tell Them
THAI You Saw Me-" He wore a gray wig.
suggestive of the songs age: his suit was a
model of eccentricity. one leg Of his trou-
sers being tight and the other almost bal
loonlike in proportions. For q zane he car
ried a long telescope.
THE Letter Tha Never Came" was rep
resented by a girl In a tailor suit Of gray.
with an iiIegibIy directed envelope pinned
to her Jacket. The exceptions were Two
small young women dressed exactly alike
as Two Little Girls - Blue" and another
guest IN. the costume Of Goethe's Mar
guerite.
When the name Of a song has been
guessed correctly the wearer Of that cos
tune may take q seat. but no one should
be allowed to sit Gown until the piece il
Illustrated has been guessed by at least one
member of the party.
In the old days Of four or fve years ago
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-08-04

the back. and with the ends q TIE bslel
slipped through The elastic satin anishsA1
belts. studded with na1hsads OF steel. gn10
or Jet. are in sharp contrast to thess nar@
row folded ones. but arc not becoming. en-,
cept to slender. l~ong-waisted figures. wh1N
the narrow belt Il becoming alike to stout
or slender. and to the former q . v~sritabaA
as II lsngthens the whist end
makes It look smaller at one and the same
time. The satin elastic belts. quite plain
without any nailheads. are fastened with
buckles the exact width Of the elastic. ana
made OF hid. with tracing Of gilt o. steel
or. moro costly than an. Of antique s1lvse(
set with rhinestones and I'm quaint devioA
There are also buckles Of cut steel. which
are most effective with the satin elastic.
whether black or white II used.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-08-04
Quaint Curtain Effect Is
Seen in Many Models.

This curtain effect Is seen In many Of the
new models. and It is sometimes provided
by pleatings Of white straw on lace lap
pets. but on the early autumn models by
pleats OF miroir velvet or mousseline taft
fetas ribbon.
Bright red Cuba straw toques. pleated IN
Scotch cap fashion and ornamented with
white birds or long black curled quilts. burnt
straw or ripe wheat colored double plateaux
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-08-04
All Plumage Must Be Very
Wide of Feather.

Az will be seen in course of describing
the newest Paris models. the taste for plum
age IL not confined to ostrich; couteaux are
In immense request Preference is given to
those very wide in the feather and with
massive quilts. the favorite way of using
them being to insert them In the straw IT.
self, and to exhibit the white stump rather
prominently, or to curl 1t right round the
toque-
Birds wings. quilts. and plumage viii lie
in very fashionable request, and it is
pleasant In the face of so many protests
against the wearing of birds to be able to
record that the majority of these are fancy
manufactures, cleverly made from the
wings and breast of game Or domestic fowl
and pigeon. The duck contributes much
plumage that when dyed strange hues
makes a very handsome ornamentation that
gives but one clew to its Identification.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-08-04
louis XII coat Of green silk with
a collar Of ecru Venetian lace.

ths picturesque Nell Gwynne. with its he
coming plumes. is the favored choice of the
fashionable bridesmaid. The majority of the
ostrich plumes used on recent Paris models
aro vsry long and full. Some are long
enough to almost completely encircle the
wide brim. from left to right. so that the
tip depends from the back. to droop over
the coinure in a very becoming fashion.
IArge Leghorn hats are dyed In beautiful
tight tints, such as blue or rose-pink. and
sweeping ostrich plumes to match are curied
In picturesque fashion on the dropping
hrimS.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-08-04
FEATHERS ARE TO BE PROMINEN IN FALL MILLINERY.

their natural shades TO provide dropping or
curved ospreys.
Piateaux of tetras feathers are doubled
over in omelette fashion. with the space
between filled in with rouleauX of light
colored or white tullc. or sometimes col
ored miroir velvet. The breasts of many for
eign birds will he brought into requisition
for the Paris miIliner's needs. and she Will
use them in combinations of black and
white. some brown. and considerable beige.
with some sprinkling OF castor. and com
binntiOn Of the two latter shades.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-08-04
FEWER PLATED SKIRTS
ARE TO BE SEEN.

Costume designers say that We shall see
fewer plated skirts as the season advances.
but as to what sort of skirts we are TO.
have in their stead. they are retfcent. Mean.
while they are bringing out their newest.
skirts with the characterization arranged 80
an to counterfeit a tunic. Round TUNES.
square tunics. scalloped ones. long and short
ones. are all suggested in the arrangement
of the trimming. But the real. genuine
draped overskirt il still conspicuous by It's
absence. No decrease IN the hare or length
Of skirts 10 noticeable.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-08-04
REGRET.

When / regret something promised me- >
But which l never had. nor can have
now,
Because the promiser We no more see
In countries that accord with mortal VOW;
When I remember this / mourn-but yet
My happier days are not the days when /
forget.
jean Ingelow.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-08-04
RETURNING GUESTS.

When Joy goes forth and leaves us desolate
We plead for her return. ofttimes in vain:
Yet. oh! how soon unto the hearts closed
gate
Comes back. unbid, her sad-faced sister.
Paint
Charles Toxne, In New. Lppincott.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-08-04
Sea Birds Are Immensely Used
hv Partisan Milliners.

Sea birds are, however. immensely used
by the Paris milliners. who make choice Of
white and gray sea gulis. marten-tails. and
blsckbirds dyed TO trim smart hats and
tooues of rush or Cuba straw for wear at
the fashionable Continental seaside resorts.
Light colo,e1 rireons are used In the nat
ural colorines to cutspread quite flatly on
the crowns Of draped straw or cloth toques
tor the travelling season.
Heron and crane feathers are formed Into
novel wing-shaped ornaments. and are dyed
IN black and bright colors, or dressed In
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-08-04
Long mantle Of taffeta silk. The
wide collar is trimmed with a
band of cluny lace.

the colors 70 be employed throughout the au-
tumn and winter season The result OF
these deliberations lie shown on a card Is
sued to subscribers. and tho new one has
Just been published. From this and other
indications, 1t would seem that various
shades of light brown will rule both for
millinery and costumes: indeed. anything in
brown that can be included In fur shades
viii be used. The leading browns Will. how
ever, be light and dark castor tones. and
are known as zibeline, vautour and castor.
To serve as admirable contrasts. where q
tight touch OF color IL needed. three deer
orange tones. lane. otero and nivarna, are
provided.
Other light browns, whose names are sig
niicaut OF their tones. are included In The
range. from MANTLE. q creamy tint. {"
Philippine. q biscuit tone: Havana. tabac
and marron. dark tobacco brown. all Of
which will be favored In the feeling for fur
colors. For contrasts are provided bright
peacock blues. with a charming turquoise
effect. Rose shades from pale rose TO a
rich deep damask.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-08-04
Ostrich Feathers Are to Be
in General Favor.

That ostrich feathers are TO be prominent
features in millinery trimmings in the early
autumn and late summer season Is conceded
by Paris authorities. The popularity Of tht
various types of picture hats will help 10
maintain their supremacy in the world OF
fashion, as IL favors the Cavalier hat OF
the Louis XIV In Paris. or the often mis-
named Gsinsborough In London, whsre. too,
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-08-04
Red VIII Be as Popular
as Ever for Late Summer.

Red will he as popular as it always L. in
the late summer and early autumn abroad.
especially ~Coquelicot.
Some Of the most striking ideas in the
new shapes have been already appropri-
ated by specially smart miiliners. who are
ireps~nS exclusive models for the many
fashionable outdoor gatherings that have
still t. take place this summer. ono mill
incr who seems 10 make hats for all the
hcautics has just COME back from Paris
with a lovely shape that is bent downward
in front. with a distinctly Marie Stuart
effect.
II Is wide. with dropping ostrich plurles
laid low on each side of the hrim- this pro-
Nidiuc. rs it were. a heart-shaped halo
around the face Of a most becoming char
actor. The crown of this hat Is very low.
ard has no trimming beyond a big black
velvet bow laid fat upon it. with the loops
at The back and the points toward the front.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-08-04
Stylish Cream ColOred
Hat of Irish Lace.

\ charming hat in the same collection Is
." he worn ut a ducal garden fete. II is
made of Irish lace in deep cream color.
stretched over a transparent frame. 1t is
bound at the edge with black velvet. and
slightly lifted of the head with roul, aux
Of white ttule fiuished off with a but terfy
bow Of black velvet IN the left side. where
a black ostrich plume droops over the brim-
The stem Of this is interlaced on the front
with the stem of a white feather, that crrls
over the right brim. so that the fun and
handsome tip rests on the hair at the back
in the old style. A great novelty is a boat
shaped hat ~ dead white and -ipe corn
colored Cuba straw. The brim is formed of
eight rows OF the straw. sewn in undulating
alternate rows of. white and corn colo-.
These face utwar 80 that the edges
make a very becoming rufhe effect, and are
then caught in at the back to form q fan
shaped "bavolet" that hangs downwards
nxar the hntr
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-08-04
PLEASURE BOOK IS THE
LATEST FEMININE FANCY.

One happy sugsestiou has been made bN
a member Of the "Don't-worry'' hand. Sue
suggests keeping what she caIls Q 'P1easurn
Book" b coursgeously maintains TIM
even In the most overburdensd and sorrow-
full life 1t - possible to ind IN sach day a
least one incident or one circumstance thaA
ought to be q sourcs Of passing pleasure
II NOT Of something worth calling hsppfJ
ness.
Thu carriages thought most attractive THU
season by the women Of fashion are the
small Victoria and the square-lined cab}
rioiet- For both OF these black, with cane
panels. is the favorfte color. One of the
Victorias finished In this style. with q blach
horse and the mar on the box In black
livery, has q particularly trim effect. Next
to black. blue and green, also with cane
panels, have a vogue. Yet for country use
these equipages will b largely superseded.
oy the four-wheeled basket phaeton-
The woman who likes flowers Is buying
baby century plants. infants Of the new
century. to see how long she can keep them
and what they will do In rs much OF tina
new century as she WIN have the pleasure
Of observing. The century plant. as ann
one who understands flowers knows. Is nov
. century hloomer. Down In the West InS
dies, where they are treated to warm
weather the year through. they bloom evsrN
few years. and the poorest little novels may
Be surrounded By hedges Of them, eve1y
plant Q mass Of blossoms. 1t depends upoU
conditions how often they bloom In IT,
part OF the globe. and not mani people -
see one plant blossom twlce.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-08-04
Various Shades of Light
Brown viii Be Worn.

The creators Of these new modes are
helped in their lsbors by the previous "e-
iiberations Of various color syndica1-s.
which decide as TO the general range 81
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-08-04
Seen in the Paris Shops.

all figure in the French models prepared for
the travelling season to accompany tailor
made gowns in woolens or linen.
Those who dictate styles in Paris have al
ready issued the decree to the effect that
nap beavers. plain felts. and velvet hats
will start the autumn season. the fiat effect
in shape and trimming obtaining to that
end.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-08-04
Picture Hats With Roses
Are Worn With Low Coiffures.

Large picture hats covered with roses are
very effectively worn with the low Golf
furea The color drawing shows a large
hat In white satin straw. literally covered
with pale pink roses The wide brim is
caught down on one side by q bow Of black
velvet. 1he velvet bow Il bold In place by
q sash buckle.
The arrangement Of the hair In the sketch
shows Q style that IL just beginning to grow
popular In Paris The hair is waved slight
~. then caught up and made into puns at
the back OF the head and on the neck. Two
long ourls fall gracefully, ono over the
shoulder and the other down the back.
MARIE
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-08-04

,spec,al Correspondence OF The Sunday RepunIic
Paris, July B-Modes for the coming sea
con can always be ascertained by tnose III
the inner circles of fashions moVenl,A'
soon after the Grand Prix. The iho"ei-
makers IN Paris start then to evolve ne"
ideas OF the earliest visitors 10 IN"
Wrench markets. the American ana col"h'ai
buyers. vino have by the first days III July
already made their purchases Of fall mover
s.tso
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-08-04

In the old days of four or i've years ago