The progressive farmer. [volume] (Winston, N.C.) 1886-1904, 1901-08-27
USE sHREDDER-DoNT PULL FODDER.


Carolina readers. Much has been
said upon this subject in our columns.
A good Summing up" of the whole
matter is given in the Southern Cu1-
tivator of August 10Th, by Prof.
James B. Hunnicutt, who has writ
ten several interesting farm letters
for The Progressive Farmer this
year. We commend his article on
shredding to all interested readers.
He says:
In response to numerous requests,
we will discuss shredding in detail
We advise all of our farmers to quit
pulling fodder and shred their corn
stalks, because it makes them more
money to do that way.
HOW CORN STALK GROWS.
The sap is taken from the soil by
the little feeding roots and carried
to the blades. There it is worked
over by the sunshine and chlorophyl.
The leaves are both stomach and
lungs to plants. The food contained
in the sap is then returned to the
various parts of the stalk and all the
water and waste thrown out into the
air, through the thousands of little
mouths on the under side of the
leaves. No food once in a plant ever
goes back into the soil. From this
we see that if the fodder blaoes are
pulled off the process of growth is
stopped at once. Hence the corn
grain cannot fill out after the fodder
is pulled.
But if the corn stands until the
lower blades ripen and die, then you
will find all the feeding roots dead.
All the sap is then in the stalk. So
if you cut the stalk then, with the
fodder on it, the feeding process goes
on and the ear fills out plump and
full.
Nothing is lost in the weight Or
quality of the grains by cutting the
stalk after the fodder ripens. On
the contrary, nature hUrries up the
work because of the wound.
The right time to cut then is about
week later than we usually pull
fodder. All the sap food is then in
the stalk.
HOW TO CUT AND SHOCK.
Having thus saved the expense of
pulling the fodder and the damage
which pulling always does, we take
a sharp, heavy knife, or corn har-
vester, and out the corn. Then we
take pole or scantling 2x4, 10 or 10
feet long. On the large end we fasten
two legs about four or five feet long
and let the other end rest on the
ground. This three legged horse is
just like a shingle drawn horse
About three feet from the end, which
is held up by the legs, bore an augur
hole, one inch and quarter, make a
pin three or four feet long that will
easily work in this hole.
Stand your horse where you wish
the shock. Put in the pin, and in
the four corners place the corn until
you have the shock as large as you
wish. Large shocks are better, 300
to 400 stalks. Place the butts firmly
and then get up on your horse, and,
having provided a piece of rope s
feet long with an iron ring on one
end, throw this rope around the
shock above the ears and draw tight.
Then tie with twine. Then pull out
the pin, take the horse by the high
end and walk on to the place for the
next shock.
A few days later, when the corn
has shrunk, go around and tighten
these ties. This shocking should be
very carefully done. If the shocks
ever fall great damage is done to the
hay. Large shocks are to be pre-
ferred because less fodder is exposed
to the dews and rains.
WHEN TO SHRED.
The corn should stand at least
four weeks; six is better. Tt should
be thoroughly dry when shredded.
Letting the shocks blow down and
shredding when damp or wet have
caused some to be prejudiced against
the hay or, as it is generally called,
''stover."
When the corn is dry, haul to
where you wish it and shred the