The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1901-09-15


the Ma-Chu leads. by a gradual ascent.
over this range. the top OF the pass being
marked by seven large obos Chuge piles OF
stones placed 20 show the direction Of the
road 10 traders. with rags OF every size
and description waving from them, which
are visible for miles on all sides.
y PICTURESQUE HEATHER
The head man of this village lived in two
large tents erected on top Of a celar-like
structure similar 10 the ordinary native
dwellings. He was a stout man Of forty,
and so friendly disposed that Immediately
we felt our oDin0on Of Golok Characters
tics taking an upward bound. AS soon as
the tents were pitched he sent messenger
TO invite US 10 his own abode. in order that
he might see with his own eyes the won
derful white strangers" Of whose presence
in the district he hao been already in
formed. This messenger was none other
than his principal wife. and she certainly
was the most curious specimen Of an abO-
riginaI envoy. In stature she was veri-
table giantess and stalked about with
determined mien that threatened I'll TO any
rash man who would strive 20 cross her
purpose. In order that the mission on which
she was now embarked should not be def
cient I'm due pomD and ceremony, she was
a
pony with a scraggy tail, crop-eareG, and
the name looking as IL rats had eaten part
OF it. coupled with an appalling thinness of
frame; in short. such an animal as the
worthy Don Quixote would have gone into
ecstacies over She rode a-straddle, and
wore conical Iron pot for nat, and an
imposing array of garments, chief among
which a long scarlet duba cape huttered
from her shivering shoulders with the
Haunting ostentation Of a Roman emper-
or's toga.
Unto the tender mercies of this Amazon
we consigned ourselves and in due time
arrived at the abode OF the head man, man
aging, after much labor, 10 grope our way
through the gloom of the tent and undergo
with passive humility the hilariously eff
fusive welcome with which he greeted us.
a dozen strengthening officials were. gath
cred round the fire, engaged in superin-
tending the cooking of a savory mess soon
TO soothe their hunger. They at first took
no notice OF US. but anxious to cement the
bonds OF good-fellowship we threw scrup-
les Of civilized etiquette to the winds, and
at once elbowed among them for seat
round the FIRE. The one next to me, on my
right, seemed little struck by our easy
ways; he put his hands on his ribs TO feel
now lar my elbow mao penetrated ana
without further ado took his pipe from his
mouth and offered it to me. The ice broken
/ smoked the pipe to the last Whit with
fortitude that overcame the Qualms of
nausea. and, not to be thought fastidious,
scrambled with them for the Jumps of meat
and altogether gave an impression Of rjbald
camaraderie. which tickled them immense
ly. L addressed myself particularly to the
VIII frs a Of nd
made myself extremely agreeable by al
ways smoking his pipe, until the we'll
springs of amiability being opened by this
friendly conviviality, he gave me TO under
staehd that we should be fast friends, at
which 1 slapped him heartily or the back
and cried out. ''tra-tra' good. good. hav
ing heard him use that word apparently
with a knowledge of its meaning.
MUSICAL ENTERTAINMENT.
After feasting and smoking for some
time We felt that We had done all that duty
or necessity required and were preparing
10 depart, when "A gesture from the head
man stayed US At q. nod from the latter,
one OF the guests, a sioliy and sentimental
young man. brought out a sort OF rude
guitar formed by stretching several yak
sinews over base OF dried sheepskin, on
which he worked with Untiring vivacity,
keeping time with his head and heels. The
whole assemblage joined in without the
least respect 10 harmony, we fulfilling our
part by whistling Yankee Doodle" at the
TOP OF our lungs, forming strange con-
catenatiOn OF mournful wailings, shrill
screeches. Eroans and grurrts which might
have walked tine dead. 1 was surprised in
the course OF this Appolonian function to
see my wbilon friend begin to undress
and wondered what strange ceremony this
action preliminary to; but it was
harmless. merely temporary disrobing
for sporting purposes, to hunt heas and
verrnin. Evsn this outrage of the civilized
code OF manner might have been condoned.
but we suddenly found our interest in the
event waning. when. having completed
this necessary operation. he took off his
hat and disclosed a wound, raw, cory and
ghastly, which he desired US to examine
with much show or pride and circum-
stance as a connoisseur Of art would in
wife the most enthusiastic amateur to ex-
anime some dainty vase or piece oe bric-a-
brac. We could bear up with pipe, food
and musical outrage. but this was little
too much. even for our equanimity. and We
seized the opportunity TO beat an undigni-
fed retreat to our tents.
A DISEASED PEOPLE.
From protracted sojourn among them we
discovered, IN spite OF their apparently
rugged and healthy appearance, that the
Goloks are by no means a healthy people.
Malignant skin diseases, as among the
Thibetans and Mongols, are common all
ments, but. in addition, among these noun
tain tribes consumption and violent lung
affections carry off many victims. An old
man. evidently in the last stages of the
former dread disease, came to US to be
treated, he was convinced that we had
medicine or magic potic.s that would be OF
use TO him. gave him packet OF seidlitz
powders, the etfervescing OF which sur
prised him very much ana whose curative
principles must have worked marvelously,
for before we started he brought a small
bag OF tsamba 20 reward US for curing him,
showing the results that may be accom-
plished from a very vivid imagination. The
unfortunate wretch was clearly beyond all
human aid but IL was agreeable TO think
that he had now received some magic
powder from the great white men and,
therefore. must be cured. and, realizing
that he was not for many days in this
world, We could not find it in our hearts to
disfllusionize him. or to blame ourselves
for thus deceiving him.