New-York tribune., 1901-09-19
IN FASHIONS REALM.
FEW NEW MATERIALS. BUT THE OLD
ONES HAVE CHANGED SOMEWHAT.


Certain aspects of the seasons fashions
marked as to unmistakable. First, every
woman who a forty-fve-inch cloak with
out looking like a guy'-and many who cannot
will do Second. castor has regained the over
whelnling popularity of two years ago. and Will
be worn for gowns. coats and hats until people
are weary of il. Third costumes for the street
will clear the ground completely almost without
exception, while those for home and evening wear
will have longer trains than ever
Apart from these general outlines. the fact
mains that there has never been time in the
history of fashion when there was such a latitude
allowed the individual taste and style There is
hard and fast rule for anything in the realm Of
costume. Every woman is expected to select the
mode color and fabric best suited TO her, and when
she has done that she is considered to have done
her whole duty society In the matter of dress.
There are few in the list of fabrics
be used, the fabrics themselves have many
points of novelty. Canvas. for instance now comes
in a fineness of weave that makes it practically
material Homespun differs widely from the
article heretofore known by that name, being a
mixture of variety of threads-hne, coarse, black
white and colored-that give decided novelty or
effect. will be used for long walking coats and
tailored costumes, and will be trimmed with
stitched or corded satin plain velvet bands The
foundation colors most liked will be gray dark red
and browns Many of the fashionable materials
have long white hairs scattered irregulary over
the surface. in the manner that formerly was
characteristic OF camel's hair.
Cheviots unfinished worsteds vicunas. venetians
and broadcloths to divide popularity among
them for tailored gowns. while materials of eX-
tremely light weight will be used for dressy cos
TUNES.
Some of the costumes now being shown by the
leading shops exceedingly delicate and artistic.
A black satin crepe de chine has the upper part
Of the skirt tucked finely, and the bodice is in
pinch tucks which tiny jet beads about
inch apart The front of white coin spotted lace
is drawn into beted blouse effect and has
clever touch in the introduction Of narrow velvet
ribbon of pale violet shade applied in small geo.
metrical motifs down the middle, and two rosettes
at the side of the stock collar. The sleeves are
slightly bell shaped to the elbow. and finished
by puff sleeves of lace drawn into cuff, with
deep lace edge falling well over the hand: .,
fine blue crepe de chine has the skirt tucked
in vertical groups of three to the founce, which
headed bV silver espanred white CImnV inseTtion
The bodice is decollete edged with the lace and the
and sash of black velvet ribbon two inches wide.
Many of the evening gowns have sleeves reaching
half way to the elbow; sometimes they are tightly
Most of the handsomer tailored COWS retain the
rspe an he fu at eaS d d
in tiny buckle Another is whole across the
A lovely costume Of dark blue cloth has belted
blouse t & opening in over full front Of % whe bos satin
edged with band Of pale blue cloth embroidered
with black. The skirt is perfectly plain and flares
Most OF the hats larger than ever.
and kindred styles. and the demand is fully sup
piled: Even toques and turbans extended and
amplified to an astonishing size The result is
eminently satisfactory however, the new models
are extremely beautiful. A large draped toque OF
tucked petunia velvet achieves a highly artistic
ensemble by having for decoration two long ostrich
plumes Of exactly the same rich tint. encircling
6he soft brfm in opposite directions from their
meeting point at the side One lies well the
brim and the other rests somewhat the crown
and the effect is most graceful
wonderful creation is of black and white chif
fon folds alternating with a mixed braid OF black
and white chenille with black dotted white breast
1ngeniOuSly arranged the wide, upturned brim
one is not absolutely restricted to the large hat
however, as there are occasionally almost dimnu-
tive toques and round hats to suit small faces
one such was Of black rose petals with brim turned
back from the face Over this was draped a
narrow Renaissance scarf knotted low at the side
half wreath of small pink roses added a pretty
color note.