The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1901-03-10
COOKERY IN THE SOUTH.
RECIPES THAT CAN M Used WIN
SUCCESS IN THE NORTH.
Fried Chicken and Its Variations Methods Of
Preparing Corn Bread. wannes and Raised
Biscuits- Ham Boiled In Cider with Ad-
mirable Results indian Mrai FIaplack.


mirable Results - Indian Meal Fiapjack.
IL was Col Ochiltree who said that he liked
a French chef 10 cook a dinner. but that for
breakfast no ono in his opinion could Guido
an old-fashioned Southern nanny. He de-
ciared that for certain dishes the colored
women Of the South excelled all the other
cooks In the world In fact. II IL the skill Of
the colored nanny that has made Southern
cookery famous the world over. Nowhere
else can one get such corn bread, such %fritters
or such fried chicken, while the cooking OF
small birds Is an art that the colored cook
alone seems TO have mastered
southern cooking, however, reauirss vari-
alton. more perhaps than tha OF any other
region. A restaur ant devoted to the ex-
elusive service OF this kind Of cooking and
provided with . genuine mammy handanna
turban and all. was recently obliged to vary
its Programme with another dinner OF the
Hungarian variety for the reason that South
ern cooking. no matter how excellent, is rtch.
heavy and apt 10 cloy upon the palate as a
steady diet
While the charm Of the cooking Of the South
Ia something that seems TO be given entirely
by tho hand and the brain Of the Southern
cook, and 10 almost impossible Of accomplish
ment by the French chef who Attempts TO
Initiate the wafics. the corn ~fritters and the
cream gravy that are SO easy 70 the bandanna
crowned cooks OF Norfolk. Richmond and
Charleston. there are man easily learned
peouliarites In the southern methods OF pre-
pairing foods. just a. here are in the creole and
New England recipes.
The breads and the raised and beaten bis
Quit can be produced in perfection II the old
fashioned recipes are strictly followed but
&c is In their very old fashion that the charm
turks. Any attempt at up-to-date improve
ments speedily spoils the typical character OF
the cookery.
The raised biscuit. which Is 50 rare a dkh
with Northerners. can be made with success
after this method. A pint Of milk must be
heated and In this a heapins teaspoonful
Of butter Is melted and the milk Is allowed
smoothly; add to IL a level teaspoonful Of
salt a gill OF good yeast. a quart of -four and
the lukewarm milk. Cover the bowl or pan
containing this sponge with a folded towel and
let Il stand over night In q place warm enough
to insure Its rising properly.
The NEXT morning knesd tho dough gently
for FIVE minutes. using enough hour 70 prevent
It's sticking TO the hands: make II UP In small
biscuits put them into a buttered baking
pan, cover with A folded towel and put the
pan In n warm place for half an hour or until
the biscuits have swollen to twice their oriai-
nal size. DO not put the pan where 10 Is too
hot 10 hold the hand. When the biscuits ara
light. brush Thorn over tho surface with a
little sugar dissolved In milk or with melted
butter and then bake them brown In a quick
oven and serve them hot,
WaN'es. which have a regular place on
Southern breakfast tables. are rarely seen
in the North; but when they are served,
sometimes at seashore and country inns
where old fashioned dishes are a speciality.
they are always appreciated They can be
made from rice. cornmeal and sweet POTATOES.
The iroIs Used for baking them ALWAYS pro-
duce better re.ults when they are old and
tempered, 10 tho fire. which must be very
Raised w%afAOs, which plenty OF the. colored
cook, can make cyceleutlv In Northern
fint 81 iuE "rs ilfAG milk %' In WRiRYIcHkS two st tsS Gee
spoorful. 81. butter have been Melted, two
t .Sssl'c 81 S%a1fS Ssa5lH 1s, sea-, dll. .T nsat 4 4 ana: ! siil
s 3, " sn1 a ' TSnS Sss 81 fsS oaf ,,,S { iss' Fsis 'snI, of
night in a warm place In the morning heat
the waIs iron, butter It, pg. IN the batter
wi ,so r .tlrJins =, down ard t9s3 bake ths
P" An Old southern recipe for chicken p,.
lowed. selec. for this a FOWL Weighing four
or ,hye pounds. clean IL carefully. SINCE It
and then boil 1t gently until 10 begins 10 grow
tender in boiling vatcr enou gh 20 cover 10
Save hi, broth with the sibleta When the
en- is done take Il M, cut It in Joints as
,,or a fricai.se, or In nieG"s OF = 1lz: suitable
very thin and fry IL with the chicken until II
Is a light brown.
them M and stir into tho pap In which they
we're cooksd a Tablespoonful OF -four; str |
l. |; 2ysF p inf q aFT tho sn sn,d + !, ss T0tS' 's sya, ; add
iai q pepper, STR sRis gravy urttl t has boiGed
fo5 r. two m mlnnt e.. and c1, use I, y, for The pie -,
q -FOUR, a toasroonful Of salt. two tablespoon.
pastry board and roll Il out about an inch
t4iCh cut : Gu9p,sT q a Pond Of ,fooa
over the paste fold Il together, IN such a way
!hat the butter IS enclosed ip the aste vrap
q ;lisa., ny Mem On ho paste, ,foiid 80 a.
iolf an hour ur'"' Then hem roll STnf,t 10 aye" the ,h FSGi n s@s
Of half an inch. fold I, IN three ,hicknosses
AMI |esoal f f'"r Rfaaihf an ' GG5Saar ! SafrSSnroan us II = towel
II It does not break through. roll again
Hna ! T'S can AZ 70 he 'i made f f"r ,f fcr Irpor 't Gri,. ts4hid
Aftcr the Aish is lined with Tho ro.try ru.
N III" 'll'hfH anu wv Il'h IN layers, pour
over sufficient gravy To l~noieten: cover them
with a top crust. voting tho edges Of tho
rrus. 10 make them adhere. cut the ton 10
permit the steam To escape. brush over with
beaten e=g and bake in a moderate oven
The leftover gravy may DO served st table
with the pie.
Fined chicken and cream gravy is another
4 IN associated with the South IN It's ro-roo-
ton Cooked With okrs Il is excellent, and
ried with salt pork II Ia most typical ~ the
~ its discovery, Holt o pound %
salt pork il cut M In a frying pRY and
until the fst Ia eNtrnC'ed TNon wash
md Ont mp p tender hroIllns ChicEan' soak
n salt md victor for half an hour. W Re d-v
md season with L"pncr and d-edcn with
'our. Then FRY in theho. fat until e'ch piece
. p rich. brown on both sides Take IN
train md s"t aside in. n hot covered d,Sh'
Nlr of milk. or cr.qn thIcko ID with . srSor ri
= N0rr and a Tablespoonful ~ hutter. sdi
ON" chopped %narslev, boil up and pour over
Chicken With okra is sometImo4 called
'hicicn gunho Young andtondor cbicte1
. out up. aes.nned md rolled in -Four Wrsh
wo DOZEN olt-o pods md slLc" thom N n
hrowing away tho stems Peel md sl,Gc
No m~"dIum-si,ed onion Cut p quarter ~
~ ham In small rieoos, nI'.irg ,her
rto enough smoking hot lard r. halT cnver
Then add tho okra, onion end ror,.r
nd sun GENT broth 10 cover al Goaaor
HON and stow gently until both chiot on
nd Vegetables are quite tendar. Il no Er1t,
thick, add 10 IL ? ll'tle boiling v7,a-
'ricd oysters are somot.ines added 10 ~,
; uslallv an Ac~compnnl'nsnt ~ the dish
Grffile caios and rri,.ors 49,.