The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1901-10-20
RICH MEN DAINTY EATERS.
Midday Meals Must BE Light and
Tempting.

~ is not every man who can beckon
Baptiste to him and order his luncheon
Wlth9ut regard to the amount of the
check. Yet these and these onIv
can know the fashions Of midsumney.
tIun1chlng; now, each year, the menu Of
oencacles varies and new culinary In
Ventlons are made. More attention than
ever is paid down town these DAYS TO
tnat M Sieur Bon ViVant who is CLOSELY
lieo 70 commerce during the heated term.
Set VINO knows what Iunching, even
QUICK funching, should be-
Cartoonist and Joke writer's have had
n M good jibe at New York, the city
oi tne railrcaded lunch. 1t stands TO
i feagon that the seasons exert very little
tnHuence with the luncheon that must
De eaten by Stop-watch and c,Irta lied
by anxiety to get back to the office. Rlrt
an OF New York does not patronize these
6 6i,ioIL IIyplGal american industries, the
side to the story of lunching in New,
York, and 1t goes to prove that, after ali.
MIDDAY eating is a science, and can he
mace very interesting one lima eine
not day in town, in the exchange or
at the desk with the heat greatest at
MIDDAY, and man with many affairs
! upon upon MN, just at this moment growing
captlouS. overweight. Possibly he is
not able to take what he must give
each OF his clerkS-a two weeks vaca-
6Lon' At all events the strain Of the
ody Is commencing to tell upon him He
10 ushereo to a cool seat. His fayorite
waiter comes I'D
IL Is not the same old bill Of fare that
ne f1 must wade through in many places
that is put before him. Where the hest
OF summer luncheons are served in New
YORK these days they are much too ar
iistlc for that Chefs and superintendent
nave been studying the weather and de-
yising new dishes Appetites need To he
tempted Stocking would be looked upon
aSkance IN such places as these Proper-
~ 1t is a question Of morsels, but such
morselsi
Baptfste, Immaculate, bends over defer
entially and names dish or two. They
are the novelties of the hour that he
suggests, not. very much, just enough to
arouse the interest of the customer
Baptlste knows the tendencies Of the
lGnchlng New Yorker as they develop. A
t'renchman, Alsatian or Swiss himself
eEroDabiyD, he recognizes that New York
ers VINO carefully study eating are year
~ growing more European in their tastes
Baptiste watches the thermometer too
lie has learned that this summer it has
come to be almost invariably the case
that on a very hot day the business man
wants lunch that is entirely cold from
start to finish, while when it grows cooler
gle hot dish.
A talk with the superintendent of Del
monico's down town place a day or so
ago. brought to light many interesting
details of how the lunches of prosperoUs
New Workers are planned and what the
favorite dishes are this summer. The
superintendent prefaced what he had TO
say by telling how there were two pro-
nounced tendencies this year, one for men
to eat very little, the other for man
to call for cold luncheon on a very
hot day.
Ninety men out of a hundred" he
went on, ''either begin or end their lunch
with cantaloupe. Then they take soup
then single dish, hot or cold, then cof-
fee. The soup itself may be hot or cold
Generally L should say. it is wanted
cold. We serve as favOrites jellied con-
sCmme, jellied green turtle, jeIlied chick
en- broth. After this the dish must be d
simple one. A salad that is new in taste
l should say was the favorite. For the
hottest weather dishes that are cooling
and tart are those that are wanted this
summer rather than hose in any ways
sweet. Proper seasoning has a great
deal to do with it this year.
"A roast beef salad has met with great
success and approval thus far this sum-
mer. This have had made of rare roast
beef cut into very small squares, boiled
potatoes haShed, water creSS, and sliced
radishes used instead of onions, the
Whole served with a special dressing the
comp composition Of which is a secret, Balti-
more crab meat, faxed crab meat, has
been another of our very popular hot
weather dishes. Sometimes this is serv-
ed hot-stewed. But it is liked far better
IN warm weather when it is made into q
salad. with hashed eggs, olives, a few
caperS, little black and rose pepper,
salt and a little vinegar.
These salads have been the most
highly regarded dishes of the summer as
Tar as have been able to judge A
mousse of fish is well liked, too. This
is another cold dish. For it we use
Goldfish or striped bass. The fish is
mashed into mortar with cream, mold
ed and poached. 1t makes very delic-
ious eating. Salmon used to be the
great fish to be eaten cold, but now sea-
bass and striped bass have come into
popularity.
ION cool days beef mutton or lamb
stews-ragouts-,are called for, but even
then not very largely. When the bust
ness man does not feel like eating salads
he is apt to want cold meats. Mixed
cold meats are the fashion this summer;
portion Of say, beef, chicken and
tongue together. With these meats go
a few, very few, vegetables potatoes.
string beans, artichoke bottoms, knot
celery Tor, as it is sometimes called,
knob celery and oyster plant. Potatoes
saute, in butter, is a faVorite way Of
serving.
There are more green salads served
than salads with tomatoes. Tomatoes
are liked best, we find, in hot weather,
when they are brought on cut into quar-
tiers with vinaigrette sauce
1.-TWO other dishes that are regarded
for luncheon, and that L should mention,
are cold poached eggs either with an
choYieS or caviar, or ham or jelly (beef
jelly), and chicken timbales, minced
chicken timbales. sliced chicken, boiled
potatoes, sliced; green peppers and cream
sauce.
THE desserts of this season are very
light-eclairs, cream puffs, ice cream,
and melons. That covers about the whole
ground of desserts that people seem to
be caring about this year. A favorite
plan is to have a little ice cream in a
cantaloupe; sometimes vanilla, some
times chocolate. When vanilla is taken
often a little maraschino is poured over
it.
High balls and gin ricl1eys still hold
their popularity when it comes to drink
ing. Two novelties in this way that we
have introduced this fHba
Crist cocktail and the gin daisy The
first is made with three dashes of orange
bitters, one dash of maraschino, half
sherry glass of Tom gin, half sherry
glass of French vermouth; stir we'll and
strain into a cocktail glass.
1.-The gin daisy is made with pony
glass of raspberry syrup, two dashes of
lemon juice, one sherry glass of Tom
gin and two or three Jumps of lice. Stir
well and decorate with fruits. Brook
Ign Eagle.
No Use for Art.