davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1901-09-21

The first chosen was of plated chiffon and
guipure lace Chiffon formed the square
blouse and three-quarters of the length OF
each sleeve. The lower part OF the waist
was of lace, a band of ribbon being thread
ed in and out of the piece of deep insertion
that formed the dividing line between lace
and chiffon, and also formed straps across
the shoulders. The girdle was Of ribbon,
bows of which Smartened each side of the
yoke.
The second waist was Of delicate shade
of lettuce green. The material was fine,
soft silk combined with white Valenciennes
lace. Bands of insertion were united to
form the yoke, which spread out In shield
shape on the bust, where a band of Waite
lace insertion formed three narrow points.
The lower part of the blouse consisted OIL
alternate double plaits of silk and bands
of lace. The sleeves were laid In triple
plaits from shoulder to elbow, where they
united with bouffant undersleeve built up
of lace insertions.
The third waist was of combined heavy
white silk pale blue ribbon bands and
cream chiffon. the latter forming yoke,
neatly tucked and finished with collar OIL
ribbon and chiffon. The white silk forming
sleeves, ceinture and the blouse proper was
laid in narrow stitched tucks. AT the
wrists and waist line the bodice was ac-
corded generous flare. Ribbons ascended
to the shoulders from the waist and were
decorated with diagonal squares OF white
lace The yoke was framed in more rib
bcns ornamented with lace squares, the
corners having small fancy rosettes to set
them off.
Some sort of tie must accompany the less
magnificent blouses. although it be only the
bow in which the black ribbon velvet which
Evening star., 1901-09-21

front with a gold ring. Several stocks are
usually needed to Outwear a waist and
these ought to be ordered from the dress
maker with the blouse. One woman of
my acquaintance required for a silk and
lace blouse one stock and cravat of silk
and lace; second of velvet, lace covered,
and a third entirely of silk. These were
OF the cOlOrs used in the waist and worn
alternately they robbed the garment of
that sameness which is the bete noire of
the well-dressed woman.
Coats to He Long.
The long-tailed coats which we are sure
to have with the autumn tailor frock are
made with such discretion that they will be
better liked than when an effort was first
made to introduce them. The advance fall
hlouses are fashioned with an addition be-
low the belt line. They are novel and be-
coming to slender, long WASTED figures, but
should not be worn by stout, short-waisted
women. The general tendency now is to
make the waist line appear as long as pos
sible. In front particularly bodices are
heightened sometimes by means of belts.
The lOng-waisted, short-tailed effects are
of the Louis XIV period and right in
line with the pOmpadour revival.
Handsome tailor made frocks are COM
Evening star., 1901-09-21
FOR BEAUTY
ONE WOMAN GETS 1T BY WASHING
HER FACE WITH RIPE TOMATOES.
Another Finds the Magic in Hot water
and Soap-BOth Methods Are
Safe and Cheap.
Written for The Evening Stal

Written for The Evening Star.
Our city maidens. taken as a whole
have quite as brilliant compilations as
their country cousins but notable ex-
ample among the latter declares that 1t is
to the homely kitchen garden, stretching
back from their old farm house, that she
owes skin that is almost invariably
remarked upon for it's beauty. AS soon as
the tomatoes begin to ripen the first thing
she does after her morning abutions is to
HE herself to the spot where they grow
and to use one in briskly rubbing face,
neck and hands. She takes bit of soft
cheese cloth to serve as a towel, but does
not use it until the tomato has been on
for a few minutes. When cucumbers are
overripe she uses them in the same man
ner.
An English woman who has lived in this
Evening star., 1901-09-21

of the vatican kind fell directly from the
shoulders to the floor, forming very full
train.
Personally. 1 should much prefer the
house dress of soft white wooden stuff
made with a simple skirt and rather full
front. over which boIero of cluny is held
in place by bows of black velvet
One is never more impressed by the
magnificent carriage of Nine. Jane Ha-
ding than when she appears in one of the
beautiful long mantles which she is fond
of wearing. The other evening she was
seen at a function wearing her most be-
coming wrap-a long affair of black pani1e
with wide sleeves trimmed with jet pail
letteS.
The kimOnO Wrap.
l am told that we may yet go to the
japanese for fashion hints. We have taken
one from them now in making new coat.
The kimOno wrap is certainly a beauty,
and it is being quite generally adopted To
describe 1t, let me say that it resembles in
shape the wellknOwn kimono. 1t is made
of cloth and trimmed with velvet silk.
The sleeves fit well on the forearm, but
flare greatly to the wrist, where a wide
cuff further adds to its effectiveness
have seen kimOno theater wrap made of
pompadour brocade and handsomely trim
med with light fur. 1t is intended for late
fall wear
The use of medallions in trimming
mains unabated. They are often very
pretty. may be noted in the photo
graphed evening gown Whlch accompanies
this article. The medalliOns in the case are
lozenge shaped and of black chantily over
linen
With interest in Japanese garments
aroused, comes a revival of all things ORR
entail. Oriental jewelry is a la mode. The
old Egyptian SCarabaeus, cOnventiOnaliZed
arrangements Of the lotus and the iris, and
heads of ugly little gods are to be seen on
brooches and bracelets. Keeping pace with
this is demand for oriental perfume A
famous English peereSS who is married 70
an Indian prince is said TO have set the
Evening star., 1901-09-21
A NERVOUS PASTOR
HOW EE AVERTED A THREATENED
CALAMITY.
The Minister Tells the Story Himself-
A Statement by an Authority
Which Cannot Be Doubted.

Ministers have conscientious sense of their re-
sponsibility. 1t is therefore certain that they
would not indorse anything unless they had perfectly
satisfied themselves that IL is good. When
large number of ministers of the gospel from every
part OF the country agree in their recommended
to the public there must of necessity be unusual
ground for their action. The following statement
Is one out of hundreds from the clergy and is Of
genuine interest The Rev. Royal C. Vail OF
Bloomington Centre, Vt, said to a reporter:
Some fourteen fifteen years ago. when pastor
of a church In Windsor county, broke down en-
tirely. did more work than / ought to, and my
nerves gave way. For nearly eight years I suf-
fered from my shattered nerves. They made my
limbs tremble constantly and also caused weak.
imperfect action of the kidneys and constipa-
tion.
How was cured? From the start had con
medicines, but / got little help until, i'm 1897 or
1898, when my aged father suggested that I try
DIR. Williams Pink Pills for Pale People I fslt
stronger in few days after I began taking them.
and continued until cured.
Eyes, gladly" he answered the reporters oues-
tion. They have done much for me that for
the good Of others give you my permission to
publish my testimony"
1t is important and significant fact that no
other medicine is often recommended by CLERGY.
men as DIR. Williams Pink Pills for Pale People
They praise them because the excellence Of the
remedy has been proven In their own experience
1t is weli-established fact that they are an un-
failing specific for partial paralysis, locomotor
ataxia st. yitus' dance, neuralgia, nervous head.
ache and also for all diseases arising from impure
or impoverished blood. such as rheumatism, anss-
mia, after-enects Of the grip. palpitatiou OF the
heart, pale and sallew complexions and all forms
of weakness. either In male female. AZ al
druggists, or direct from DIR. Williams Medicine
Co., Schenectady. N. T., nifty ceuts per bod; six
boxes for two dollars and q half Suhstitutm ar~
sometimes offered by unscrupulous dealers, but
they have never cured anybody. Send for free
booklet Of medical advice.
Evening star., 1901-09-21

country for fifty years still has her clear,
bright complexion, and in answer to the
question whether this much desired beauty
was attributed to any particular treatment
She said: Eyes, my dear while the roses
deepened in her cheeks, 'hot water. both
in winter and summer. and good, honest
soap is my cosmetic. You know 1 stay in
town during all the dust and heat every
day during the summer. When 1 come In
from down street / am never comfortable
until my face Is well washed with soap and
water almost as hot as can bear It. with
plenty of fresh hot water to rinse off every
trace Of soap. In winter IL am going into
the sharp air shade the water from hot
to cold
Besides this face washing after a jour-
ney do the very same thing before break
fast and at bedtime. Since wrinkles have
Evening star., 1901-09-21
For Indoor Wear.

Ihe tea gown of the future will be of
the robe suggestion, the skirt set into MANY
gathers at the edge Of a sharply pointed
corsage one boastlng a decolletage shaned
into long round in front only. And what
could De prettier or more altogether cor
rect Tor the historical resuscitation than a
large Morally patterned chine silk? Ioui-
sine embraces several kinds of Qualities
together with an endless variety of designs
though 1t Is always to be identified by q
certain brilliancy Of finish. Large fine line
checks, mostly black on a delicate ne,,tra1 !
ground. trellfsed over with flowers are to
be found alike On silks and muslins Tho
latter are not by any means to be de-
spised Tor the rabricating of tea gowns.
Indeed, muslins-for choice, perhaps those
of silken quality-also gauzes and the fancy
qualities OF wolfe all lend themselves to
the great cause OF tea gowns.
Evening star., 1901-09-21

fashion for eastern perfumes. Altar OF
roses OF the most exquisite quality is used
by a few great danes, who are said to i'm
port it directly from the east.
Velvet and Corduroy.
Velvet gowns. worn internationally last
season. are to have a greater vogue this
winter. and corduroy costumes. so warm
and durable. will be only second to the vel
vet In popularity. Velyeteen and velvet
gowns are considered ultra smart for after
noon street wear and may or may not be
trimmed. Some of the most tasteful cos
tuners make them with no decorations but
stitching and self trimming. The new vel
vets are carefully prepared with the object
Of enabling them to stand weather and
much usage, and / am told, are far su-
perior in wearing qualities TO the ordinary
velvets of the past.
Although gowns of one material are
preferable, the separate blouse and skirt
will still be worn. The combination is TOO
useful to be- allowed to disappear utterly.
I have been much struck with the sim
plicity of the new blouses. We have been
Accustomed to seeing them a trifie over
trimmed. All that, am assured is of the
past. Elegance which gives the effect OF
simplicity is what Is now allowed.
For Theater Wear.
Yesterday I looked over some theater
blouses and helped select three for i f.ita
Evening star., 1901-09-21
For the Home Dressmaker,

To renovate or not to renovate is a aues-
tion to be considered from this point
namely, whether tbs better to have a new
gown or to send really good frock and
half the. cost of a new one and have 1t re-
turned in all respects a new toilet Ones
intimate friends will no doubt recognize
the gown, but in all other ways it prac-
tically takes it's place as a new gown
A good black dress invariably pays for
renovating, but all queer and uncommon
shapes, either In skirt or bodice, are best
left alone unless the materials can be
matched or is of the type allowing for COM
bination. Many bodices of the seamless or
stretched order can be turned into smart
boleros, and then, with a new vest and
trimming, 1t is practically different gar
ment.
Trimmings taken from bodice will often
make a smart vest, and even narrow
vest and collar of good lace can be used
with side reverS OF velvet or silk or with
cascades of lace or even frills falling for
ward and connected by straps of velvet
across the center of lace. Tucked vests or
plastrons Of silk can be sponged with ben
Zoline. Mounted as vests and decorated
will some incrustations of lace in SPRAYS or
bows strapped across the top in yoke
fashion they are handsome
There are many garments useful for
country and seaside wear which can be
smartened and brought UP to date at a
very moderate expense, but they should be
originally of good quality and cut. or they
are not worth the trouble ana expense or
alteration. An old-fashioned coat and skirt
can be remade into smart costume with
about one and half yards of new cloth to
match The skirt must be made into q
tight top part fitting a shaped founce,
and the remainder and the new cloth will
make the shaped flounce.
II there Is no new cloth. black. blue or
brown cloth can be made with separate
founce of another color. such as white,
fawn, gray, etc.. and then covered with
stitched tucks or straps Of alternate cloth
and military braid, leaving only tiny lines
| Of the light color between. The old fash
| ioned basque coat cuts into smart bolero
| to the waist. and the neck can be finished
with big collar.
Evening star., 1901-09-21

PARIS, September Z, 1901.
There is a spottiness about pompadour
fabrics that is not likely to make them
very becoming to the majority of women.
Small brocades are very well, but if fashion
designers insist on foisting upon the public
the giant figures which 1 have seen in some
of my rambles the pompadour fad will not
long survive.
For example, take a house dress design
ed on the Rue de la PaiX. 1t would not be
fair to tell under whose roof 1 saw it, since
what / say of it is not complimentary. The
material was fowered foulard, with a
ground of white sprayed all over with clus-
ters of roses of natural size. 1t had yoke
and collar of guipure over rose-colored
silk and sleeves of the same material
rounding out below the elbows and finished
with wide, open, flaring cuffs. Just below
the yoke bands of jeweled embroidery held
down the double box plaits at both sides
Of the front. In the back double plaits
Evening star., 1901-09-21

begun to show I have used an emoJl,en+
with gentle massage, at night not hoping
to wholly remove the marks of Rather
Time. but to make the old fellow soften his
touch as much as possible"
Could anything be simpler. less expen-
sive and more hygienic than this? And. II
successful, wouldn't 1t soon drive the
beauty Doctors out Of existence?
Evening star., 1901-09-21
Mohuir Gowns.

Mohair is very fashionable. This nice,
firm. yet lightweight material is stunning,
especially in navy blue, and a pretty gown
of this material boasts three crossway-
stitched folds. each fold two and half
inches deep. and placed hslf their own
depth apa-t n, fowrd -, either. side
the front to- the wsiyt
Evening star., 1901-09-21

bined with lace in an original way. While
the skirts are severely plain, the blouses
are strapped or stitched and supplied with
deep yokes Of heavy lace and lingerie
sleeves of the same. A white broadcloth
gown made with guipure yoke and under
sleeves followed this idea. The blouse
front, cut to represent a short-pointed
bolero, was buttoned to point of cloth as
cending from the cut-out cloth corselet.
which was applied to the lower part of the
blouse.
CATHERINE TALBOT.
Evening star., 1901-09-21

laces the front of the corsage is tied. Such
an effect l noticed on waist of white al
batroSs covered with stitched tuckS laid
Grafton beyond an odd corselet application
of pointed pieces of lace
The cravat tie goes with the fancy silk
or velvet stock, a matter of course. The
stock may be plain tucked or covered with
very closely together and having elab-
lace, but the cravat of lace silk, tulle or
chiffon must be in evidence, clasped in
Evening star., 1901-09-21
Useful Black Gowns.

Black is now SO, universally worn that
it is possible to be well dressed with only
two or three gowns. A black bolero and
skirt for morning and general wear are
most useful, and they need not be en- suite,
although this is preferable. The tucked
silk coats are smart with fancy collars
and are wearable with -colored skirts and
are certainly smarter than CLOTH A loose
muslin front and a. duck or linen skirt look
quite nice with silk coat for country or
seaside wear, but want a black hat. white
parasol and gloves and the inevitable bou-
Quet de corSage. y 20
A second black gown OF some thin, crapy
material on glace, silk . or made to wear
over distinct foundation is useful with
blouses in black and white, with black or
transparent muslin or lace. Another black
gown of crepe de chine or other thin, silky
texture is for smart functions and evening
wear and this is admirable with plenty of
creamy guipure, which should be hand
some, and can be further relieved by Jet.
The unlined blouses or slips, as they are
usually termed are Invaluable In black and
must have transparent insertions or yokes.
and 1t is advisable to have one tight under
bodice OF white or ivory glace or satin and
another of plain black silk.
Evening star., 1901-09-21
A New Shade for H.ir.

1t is interesting to know that the Paris
ians have a new shade Of brown for their
hair. which IL peculiarly becoming to
French people. who have ever a fancy to
dress In brown.
The Lewiston teller. (Lewiston, Idaho) 1900-1905, 1901-09-12

All Of the $50 racing stables at the
Fair grounds Of the Spokane Interstate
Fair are filled. This race meeting will
unquestionably be the greatest ever
held in the Inland Empire.
The main exhibition hall at the Fair
grounds has been deliberately decorated
and alone is worth the price Of admis-
sion. Many hundred dollars have been
spent in the work. and the management
will surely be repaid for their efforts
by the Increased attendance caused
thereby.
The incoming and outgoing trains OF
the Northern Pacific and o. r. & N.
will stop at the Fair grounds. thereby
enabling visitors to spend the whole
day at the Fair. and yet be gone from
home only one day.
All farmers interested in cattle will
have an opportunity never before pre-
sented to examine the blooded beef and
dairy stock of the Pacific Northwest at
the Spokane Interstate Fair. They will
be enabled to arrive at an Intelligent
decision as to the stock best adapted
to the needs Of this country.
The Lewiston teller. (Lewiston, Idaho) 1900-1905, 1901-09-12
No SETTLEMENT N SIGHT
THE STEEL STRIKE YET ON
Report That President Schwab Had
Put n Time Limit ON His Prop
OsitiOn to Amalgnmated Men Of
hcially Denied-BOard In Session
All Day.

Pittsburg, Pa, Sept. S.-A settlement
of the steel workers strike against the
United States Steel corporation was looked
for. 1t did not materialize, but that it
is near at hand is generally conceded. The
report that President Schwab had put a
time limit on his proposition to the Anal
gamated men was denied in the official
circles today. The only thing that was
stated i'll the proposition was that the
longer the strikers held off from the peace
negotiations the more idle mills would be
started and less union mills would be
found on the list when final steps were
taken to end the struggle. Each mill OF
the trust that has thus far started since
the strike began is to remain nonunion,
while those still idle when the agreement
is reached will be allowed to remain union
and under Amalgamated influence.
All the day the executive board of the
Amalgamated associa ton remained in SEES
sion. Shortly before 6 o'clock this evening
President Shatfer came out of the meet
ing and announced with much positive.
ness that nothing would be given out
From the earnestness of the discussion OF
the board it was apparent that some I'M
usual effort was being made to reach a
conclusion of the disastrous struggle, and
it is again confidently reported that
ShafIer and his board will be in New
York Monday morning.
In the offices of the Carnegie building
it was said there was no change in the
strike situation. The officials of the
companies interested were making every
effort possible to start the plants.
The Lewiston teller. (Lewiston, Idaho) 1900-1905, 1901-09-12

London, Sept. 9.-The Constantinople
correspondent Of the Times says:
No tax has been especially imposed up
on the French religious orders in Turkey.
Monastic institutions which have no
firman are liable to a 10 per cent tax, and
the local authorities have been authorized
to collect this strictly. from all nationali-
ties.
The Paris correspondent of the Times
says:
''The news that England has difficulties
with the porte has stopped the mouths OF
the Anglophobes affected by the anti
English insinuations of Russian organs
The correspondent of the Temps at Con.
stantinople says NM. Lorande and Tu-
bin have been invited to visit the minis
try of finance to receive a commission.
He adds that it is understood that Mu-
mir Bey is to be recalled.
The Lewiston teller. (Lewiston, Idaho) 1900-1905, 1901-09-12
Strikers Use Force.

Pittsburg, Sept. l0-The strike situa-
ton in McKeesport reached an acute stage
Monday morning and serious trouble was
feared as a result of the efforts OF the
striking tube workers to prevent men from
returning to work, as they did Saturday
The effort was almost successful, and
where last week from 500 to 1000 men
went back into the mill not more than a
dozen were able this morning to elude the
multitude Of pickets and get back into the
mill. There was great excitement in Nc
Keesport this morning as result Of this
turning out Of strikers more than at any
time yet.
Something more than 1000 strikers con
eregated about the great plant OF the Ma
tional Tube company Shortly after mid
night, and remained there until this morn
ing, when the employees who went to worl
last week reported for duty at o'clock
Every approach to the mill was guardet
most vigilantly and around the main en-
trance more than 900 strikers and sympa
thizers gathered.
The Lewiston teller. (Lewiston, Idaho) 1900-1905, 1901-09-12
Comment on Chun Mission,

Berlin, Sept. 9.-The papers have devoted
great deal of space to the Chinese mis-
sion, headed by Prince Chun. The most
influential papers, however, admit that
Germany managed the matter badly by
not having all the questions regarding the
ceremonial detail arranged before the mis-
sion left China. While the general opinion
is that Prince Chun stopped at Basel vol
UNFAIRLY, it is also said with great positive
ness that orders were sent from Berlin for
the mission to wait on the border until all
the details of the expiatory act were set
tied. Some of the papers assert and others
deny that the emperor demanded a modi-
tied kowtow, and the former seems to be
the correct version. The Muenich Al
legeimeine Zeitung, assuming this to be
true, argues that Germany's yielding will
not promote German influence in China
since Germany was worsted in the kow-
tow controversy.
The Hanover correspondent admits that
Germany yielded to the Chinese demands.
The Cologne Volks Zetung finally admits
that Germany suffered humiliation.
The Lewiston teller. (Lewiston, Idaho) 1900-1905, 1901-09-12
REPUBLIC NEWS.

Superintendent w. NJ. drummer Of
the Gold Ledge mine says he has let a
contract to drive tunnel on that prop
erty further distance OF 1926 feet.
The shaft Of the Trade Dollar has
been sunk 210 feet. At the depth of 200
feet drift was started north and has
been driven 80 feet. The ledge is be-
tween four and five feet wide and the
ore body about three and half feet.
The ore is of shipping grade.
A shaft is being sunk on the Surprise
ledge, portion Of which belongs to the
Black Tail company. It is now down
40 feet. 1t follows the ledge and is be-
ing constructed with view to being
a working shaft. 1t is five by seven
feet in the GEAR and timbered. A fine
grade Of ore is being extracted.