Evening star., 1901-02-20
LIFE IN AN OASIS.
Bright Skies and Pure, Dry Sahara
Air in Biskra.

Bright Skies and Pure, Dry Sahara
Air in Biskra.
From the Pail Mall Gazette.
The Journey to that charming retreat the
oasis of Biskras in the Algerian desert, on
the edge of the Great Sahara is not at all
arduous and can be accomplished direct
from London in four days. the through
ticket costing a little over f12. From Mar
seilles the comfortable steamers of the
Transatlantique Company leave once a
week direct for Philippeville, and once
weekly via Bona, the direct crossing taking
thirty hours From Philippevlle Biskra is
reached by rail in a day. Most travellers
will prefer to break their journey at Con-
stantine, that inland Gibraltar, whose splen-
did situation, enthroned on Its Isolated
plateau of rock, is unique in the world.
Interesting as 1t is, however, it unfortunate
ly lacks good hotel accommodation, an ac-
cusation which cannot be urged against
BiSkra which possesses at least one first
class hotel in the Royal, and several others,
the Victoria, the Oasis, the Des Zibans, ETC.,
clean, comfortable and moderate enough to
suit every ones means. The Royal is the
most modern, and has a large inner court
laid out as a garden, an extensive fiat roof
and minaret, whence the gorgeous desert
sunsets can be viewed to perfection, and a
splendid view from the terrace eastward,
over the bed of the river, the Oued- -Biskra,
to the Sahara and the picturesque range of
hills, the Djobel-Metlili, on the horizon.
has an excellent restaurant and cafe, the
prices at all these hotels ranging from II
to 16 francs a day. At Biskra 1t rarely
rains, though heavy tropical showers are
not unknown; bright sun and blue sky are
the rule; there is no damp, and the pure.
dry air of the Sahara is of incalculable
benefit to seekers after health; yet it has by
no means the appearance of resort Of in
valids only; the little town wears gay
French air has excellent shops and bazaars,
public gardens. in which roses heliotrope.
n nd inv 10 ", nfrISfN
and coloring; highly oriental-looking mai
rie, a French fort, garrison and military
club, all picturesquely contrasting with the
Arab life which to unaccustomed northern
eyes Is the great and salient novelty of the
place. Very quaint and interesting are the
native streets, the market square with It's
huddled groups of white-robed Arabs, the
languid professions of laden and weary
camels, the tunne-shaped avenues of mi
mosa, and the villages scattered about the
oasis, screened and overhung by countless
waving date palms, not less countless to the
enchanted traveller because his guide, with
frigid accuracy. informs him that the oasis
contains not less than 100000 of these self
same palm trees. In this tndolent land
there is yet plenty for the energetic to do;
the mornings can be pleasantly occupied by
bathing at the Hammam- -Salahin. six
kilometers out in the desert, where there is
a miniature bathing establishment built
over the springs, which have a natural heat
of 112 degrees Fahrenheit. AS this heat is,
however, extremely enervating to the
bather, it is advisable to order the bath be-
forehand and to allow 1t time to cool to
reasonable temperature. The tramway
which runs to the baths passes first under
palms and mmosa through the exquisite
oasis Of Beni-Mora, out into the desert, TAX
ing about three-quarters Of an hour
In the afternoon there are excursions.
driving, riding, on horses or camels, to the
environs and to the neighborng oases and,
after dinner, concerts operettas, petits che
vauX and baccarat at the Casino, or visits
to the numerous Moorish cafes in the town
where be the atiVe girls 1anciDp
their strangely monotonous Arab dances to
the no less monotonous accompaniment of
piercing pipes intended only one Is told, as
an accompaniment to the distracted
thoughts of the listener while he sips the
sweetened coffee and smokes innumerable
cigarettes. The rather squalid haunts Of
the hash1sh smokers may also be visited;
excellent guides are to be found at the
hotels all of whom speak French, and some
a little English. Travellers who visit Bis
kra, unless for health, usually stay day
or two only; but 1t is really worth a longer
visit. A fortnight certainly can be pleas
antly passed there, in the course of which
the expedition by diligence to the impor-
tant oasis and city of Pugart can be under
taken. There is also fairly good shooting
within easy reach; chamos, and the mouf-
Ion, which really Barbary sheen.
abound between Biskra and Ell Kantara.
and for these expeditions the services Of
can be requisitioned. feature Of Biskra
Is the curious villa Of Count Landon which
ne kindly allows to be shown to visitors
during the afternoon. The various rooms
are not under one roof, but are isolated and
distributed in different parts of the splen-
did tropical gardens, in which are success
fully acclimatized many rare fruit trees.
shrubs and other plants. Very charminely
do the hours slip away in these enchanted
gardens. remote from the noises of the
town, remote from the world. Screened
from the monday sun by thickest tropical
vegetation. one can repose in the heat of
the day In the Arab salon where daylight
hlters In sparingly through hanging masses
OF vlVld bougainvilleas, stroll later through
groves or feathery bamboo, and orange
gardens golden with fruit and heavy with
the Voiuptuous scent Of blossom, and final
~, watch from the river terrace the scarlet
glory en OF the sinking sun. most splendid of
nature many splendid pageants, most
glorious OF Gods many glorious gifts,
transhguring In blaze Of rose-colored fire
me gray siilh,ouetted outline of the distant
DJebel,Metlili. and touching with magical
rays the golden waves of the Sahara and
the island oases of Lalia and Filiash.
This same sunset hour Is one of the dailv
charms of life in the desert and the north
ern traveller must stand spellbound before
such riot Of southern colorinR I should
like to say that during a two months tour
In Algeria and Tunis in the height OF the
recent Anglophobia I experienced nothins,
but the utmost civiity and kindness from
all classes. both Of Frenchmen and Arabs
Where the reverse has been experienceI
may 1t not have been because orr countrv
men are occasionally as modern noveiist
has witttly told us, too conspicuons1,,
dressed In the Union Jack"