The daily morning journal and courier., 1901-09-23
FALL FASHIONS FOR MEN.
DOUBLE EASTED W1ISTCOATS
 ARE RARELY SEEN.
Cut of Outer Garments Little Changed

Cut of Outer Garments Little Changed
 The double breasted waistcoat is now rarely seen, and there seems little doubt that the single breasted coat will be the more fashionable during the coming autumn and winter, says Vogue. I refer more particularly to that made of the same material as the coat and trousers, known as the sack suit waistcoat, though there is reason to believe that double-breasted white waistcoats for evening dress and those of linen or duck for wear with frock coat will not be more fashionable than the single breasted type. Toward the close of the past winter season and throughout the spring the single but toning was, if anything, a little the smarter cut; and the Cairo shape with buttons converging to point, and points at the bolt edge went almost entirely out of vogue It is a matter with which we are not much concerned just now, but it may be noted and borne in mind when replenishing the wardrobe for the cooler months.
 With the possible exception of those to blue serge the single breasted jack ct is also more worn than the double and promises to be the fashion for the autumn. The cut is still rather straight in front, and the entirely straight front has become usual. As regards finish of pockets, number of buttons, etc, there is no hard and fast rule. The patch pocket without flap IS naturally put on unlined summer jack cts, but when heavier clothing becomes necessary the tailors will undoubtedly go back to the inside flap pocket, as has always been the case.
 One sees a good many coats of the Norfolk and semi Norfolk type in town as well as in the country. but any jack ct with belt, which must be worn buttoned to look well, is not desirable thing for warm weather, and personal ly I have never cared for plaited coats for town wear. In the country, espec- ially in the hills or mountainous re- gions. Norfolk jacket of tweed is extremely good style. It belongs as naturally to the mountains as duck and blue serge do to the sea, and it may be made in variety of ways, with or without yoke, with one or two box plaits behind, with belt all the way round or merely across the front or back. I have seen one or two coats made without any belt, but with sim ple square yoke and plain box pla1ts down the front and back, which l thought fairly pretty for country wear.
 With knickerbockers of the same material the Norfolk jacket is also good; in fact, nickerbockers are now almost exclusively reserved for the hills by smartly dressed men. Bicy- cling. or course, requires knee brooches whenever that form of exercise IS taken but for ordinary wear, and even for golf, long trousers are the rule among well dressed men. In the au- tumn it Is probable that knickerbock- CTS will be more used on the links with light sweaters and halfgaiters, and 1t is almost certain that in the course of several years we shall again have an- other knickerbocker epoch. Such fash ions are bound to come around from time to time in dress, for it's scope IS more or less limited and repetition is inevitable.
 In dismissing the subject, I may add that there has been no recent change in the shape of cut. The material should be made full over the thighs and com paratively tight at the knees, where the cloth is taken in to fit snug, With out any roll over the top of the cutfs or extensions. These are best made of box cloth to fit the leg very tight, and are now generally cut to button dlrect- ly in front instead of at the side. This, however. is a detail entirely arbitrary and may be disregarded if one desires.
 As yet no one is particularly con- cerned with what fashions the autumn may bring forth, and the few hints and suggestions which give may better he kept for future publication. No one cares to give much thought to his Wln- ter wardrobe before the middle or Sep tember, or to have his clothes made be- fore the models of the season nave shown signs of being definitely estab- lished. The temperature over the greater part of this country makes summer attire the only thing poss1ble to comfort until we'll on toward the first of October; the town season be- gins late. and until the burden of du- ties of formal urban life must again be taken up, let us not take unnecessary thought of conventional dress.
 Tn the city-I mean New 4ork, though it may be said of almost any citv as well-one is not required to ob- serve fine distinctions of dress through the summer months, and accordingly if one keeps within broad rules of style and good taste, costume is very much go as you please. This year it seems to me that even the dinner jocket Is less worn than usual, and, indeed, it would hotter not be worn at all if there is any danger of the soft front shirt precedent heinz established. I do not think there is cause for anxiety on this score, for although I have seen the combination freouently it has not been on the oack, or rather the front, of any man who loo,Sed as if he might be a possible leader of fashion
 It is natural and altogether sensible that low collars should be smart the average man does not require collar more than one and three-quarter inches in height, and the difference between that and two and one-half inches is one of much comfort The shapes are practically the same as they have been for a year or two past the band over 1apping and the opening very narrow.