New-York tribune., 1901-12-15
NOVELTIES IN FURS.
THE LAST WORD IN COSTLY AND LUXU'
RIoUs GARMENTS WORN IN PARIS

Paris. December T.
Nothing is more biting. more piercing, than
certain damp cold that TO come every winter
in Paris sometimes for week, sometimes for
-,o,-b t,,+ zlvvavs in the nature Of surprise, for
which the city is never prepared Houses are COLO
buses and trans not warmed at all and caos ohiy
superciaily Sc One is not sure OF being cofnIorta
ble even at the large shops, at ones dressmakers
or at the theatre without the waruestswraps. for
81 seerns 10 he furs got fires that count And how
furs have appeared the last ten days. Inc most
costly luxurious and the last WORD in regard 10
cut and line. And the curious thing is that they
will probably disappear as quickly as they came
Ten days ago women were walking. shopping
paving calls in trig, short cloth or silk coats; now
they suddenly appear wrapped in fur to nose and
finger tips.
There are always new ideas in furs. For instance,
q long loose garment Of astrakhan Is trimmed
with lines Of gray down the sides and about
the bottom Of the garment The high collar is
lined with velvet, and there are turnup GUNS OF
velvet over puffed undersleeves Of lace. About the
shoulders is a deep lace collar falling over the
tops Of the large fur sleeves.
A costume Of green velvet and oreitschwanz has
q shaped iounce Of the fur attached 10 the velvet
skirt The coat is Of the glossy fur. made up with
haring coattails OF the Louis XIV period with
green velvet used as waistcoat and revers, and
touches Of lace at throat and wrists. There are
some handsome gold frogs on the waistcoat
MOUssELINE LfNINGs.
Many of the coats can be worn with the fronts
thrown open to show fancy Innings A sable coat
with lining Of brown mousseline de sole arranged
IN rows Of tiny shirrings IS q luxurious garment.
It is a long way from furs to evening gowns. but
the season OF one generally desgnates the necessity
Of the other The social season opens so late in
France that II is difficult 70 speak much Of evening
gowns until the first Of December. and about this
time the dressmakers have not only lot Of charm
ing models 10 show, but are busy making up pri-
vate orders. which are always SO much more in
tcresttng than model gowns 4 large number of
the evening gowns whether intended for dinners or
the ballroom have sleeves-rather a pleasant fact
10 note for sleeves may add so much originality
and becomngness TO evening frock.
One might write chapter about sleeves and
then leave il TO be continued Sleeves have been
the original features Of suits gowns garments Of
every description all through the autumn and
there is every reason TO suppose that they TO
be interesting the evening gowns under dis
cussion now. The sleeveless corsage IS, of course
For full dress occasions, especially for young
girls. IT remains the first choice It's severity may
be nghtened by drapery falling from the shoulder
straps by cloud Of tuie that makes puff only
over the elbows leaving the upper arm bare. This
drapery which is attached the lower part of the
arm is difficult adjust. and ii is exceedingly
pretty. 1t follows the lines of the fashionable
sleeve now. close at the shoulders. with a fun ef-
feet below
On pretty debutante gown Ct palest pink nous
seine de sole the sleeves drop sufficiently leave
the shoulders exposed. 4 line Of small roses made
Of white silk. with gold centres, forms the shoulder
straps. and second line of the same flowers edges
the tops Of the sleeves These Of the nousseline
de sole, shirred close TO the Up the elbows
and then making a puff that covers the elbows and
meets the half long gloves. The corsage is ar
ranged in several deep puffs. separated with lines
OF the small flowers, and the skirt is arranged as a
single puff, attached 10 a deep founce headed by a
row of the flowers.
A rather odd example OF the favorfte black and
white combination is q short dancing frock of
white mousselne Ge sole, trimmed with black vel
ribbon. Rows Of the ribbon in graduated widths
trim the skirt from the hem TO a little above the
knees. On the corsage is the trimming, fall
ing the shoulders to trim the sleeves. and
gathered up 10 make large bow on one side Of