The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1901-11-10

PARlS, Oct. 26.-IallOr-made 1rOchS are
worn less generally this year than they
have been for some time. This is because
of the Introduction of entire costumes Of
one material to replace the separate
blouse and skirt The tailored skirt and
blouse of different material are still con-
sidered quite correct for morning wear
but the blouse must be thoroughly SIM
pie and subdued in color. Even tailored
frocks made with jackets are base
counterfeits, for the jacket is usually for
ornament and not for removal. 10 be
sure, many women will still affect the
tailored frocks. English women ano
Americans find the type of gown too be-
coming to be carelessly given up because
some fashion leader demands it.
A graceful house dress of canvas rep,
following the new idea of having an en-
tire frock of one fabric, might be copied
from the pretty model exhibited at
fashionable dressmaking establishment
The skirt had decided flare which sug-
gested a flounce on account of the appli-
cation of band of glace silk shade
darker than the rich mulberry of the rep.
A strapping applied across the hips was
duplicated by a parallel line over the
bodice front. A pouched vest, girdle and
collar of silk matching the tone of the
strappngs completed a pretty and mex
pensive frock.
Many winter skirts made without lin
ing are worn over separate foundations OF
silk Frieze, serge and home-spun are
especially adapted to a combination OF
this sort The skirt. shaped by few
plaits on the hips, drops to the feet, with
rows of stitching strapplng as the
only trimming. A volant applied to the
lower part of the silk underslzrt improves
the appearance giving the decided out
ward flare without which no skirt is now
considered quite chic. A foundation for
the flare is imperative, for if it is ap-
piled merely as a continuation 1t VIII
not add anything in fullness to the out
line. To achieve economy narrow frill
about the lower part of the volant is to
be recommended, for it can be removed
when frayed or Worn and new frill
instead of a new yolant put on In its
place.
In selecting silk only the best quality
should be chosen for a pettlcoat. Glace
is one of the most difficult silks to judge,
for an artificial finish may be applied to
an inferior kind, making it look every
whit as good as the best quality. The
test of silk is in it's wearing possibilities,
the poorer grade losing its luster and
rustling with every step in a way that
proclaims to all the world the act that it
is a cheap imitation.
Rustling garments are no longer la
mode. Queen Alexandra of England has
ordered nothing but the softest silks FOR
her new gowns and has imperatively de-
manded that they shall be noiseless when
she moves about. The fact of the matter
is that real silk unmixed with linen or
cotton. is silent and the ostentatious
swish in which so many women delight IS
public confirma ton of the fact that the
fabric is shoddy.
Next to $, silk, moirette Is one of the
best materials for winter skirts. Trim
mings consisting of ruchings, narrow
plaits and bands give the greatest salts
faction because of their simplicity. Pa
risian women have found a way Of man
aging the trained skirt on the street.
Hooks are fastened to the petticoat ard
eyes to the under surface of the skirt,
and when the wearer goes upon the street
the hooks are slipped into the eyes, so
that the skirt is raised to barely sweep
the ground
Every device known to the ingenious
sna gination has been adopted this sea-
een to give the short coat a touch Of
&avelty, Technically, the garment is
called a bolero, but it looks like no jacket
Under the sun The long. straight front
was emphasized by the adjustment of
stitched lines in the short coat of gray
cloth recently worn by society leader
with a plain stitched skirt of the same
material White cloth outlined a narrow
vest just inside the open, pointed front
of the jacket and formed the round
turnover collar. Lines of stitching gar
nished the collar and rows of brass but
tons the vest. Gray buttons of ornamen-
tai design came down the front of the
coat over the double lines of stitching in
gray. What might be called square eff
feet was displayed by the front of the
coat, which was cut with a short basque
Another fashionable coat in bottle
green might have been knights corse-
let so straight and stiff was the 'front.'
1t buttoned at the side, the closing line
being extended oblquely from ore
shoulder to the opposite side of the waist.
Over a band of silk a line of scalioped
strapping was applied and set with a
row of green buttons which occupied
positions in the indentatious of the
cloth. The sleeves were very full at the
wrist; they really looked baggy, so mark
ed was their fullness, relieved only by
narrow wristband. The turned over
collar was cut out in front over an in
setting of green silk, an aprlirc ton of
sleeves and trimming the lower part of
the jacket in deep appliqued lines.
A recently made short jacket in gray
cloth, trimmed with deep stitched bands
held down by buttons, exhibited a novel
feature in the use of a square yoke of
lace set underneath to look like blouse.
The cloth sleeves ended above the elbow,
and were supplemented by double nuTs of
white silk muslin.
An odd arrangement of collars and
pretty and novel sleeves attracted atten-
ton to a bodice of gray green cloth worn
by handsome blonde on the boulevards
during Sundays promenade. The short
bolero had a box plat on each side of
the waist supplemented by two side
plaits. The back of the jacket was plain
except for some sldllfully applied stitch
ing, the extension of the revers being
utilized to form a deep cape cellar in
the back. Stitched epaulets. trimmed
with gold galloons, were shaped over
each shoulder. The sleeves were very
full, draped in at the elbow by bands of
gold galloon and crossed lower on the
forearm by another gold band. Alternate
rows of tucks and galloons, fitted close
to the arms, formed the REMAINDER of
the sleeves. Instead of a blouse close
fitting cloth waist, pointed in front End
the silk decorating the lower part of the
brought very low at the waist, supple.
mented the short bolero.
For supplementary coats TO be worn
over the skirt and bodice costumes.
have so far seen no prettier specimens
than those represented in the sketches
One is a very happy combination OF