Manchester Democrat. [volume] (Manchester, Iowa) 1875-1930, 1901-04-24
S.lAOE y 4AOlA D..NiNhis5.

SlaOl y 4 1OlA D.4NiShisS.
a FAD WITH WOULD BE BoHEMiANs
IN NEW YORK.
Ceinese Restnurnnts There Tolerate
Free and Easy Etiquette, and Ev-
erybody Docs Just About as He or
she Pleases.
Ih the last few years surprisingly
large number Of Chinese restaurants
have made their appearance in up town
districts in New York. The tawdry
outward decorations of red and blue
lights and huge gilt Chinese characters
are In every case the same. The same,
too, are the unattractive entrances, the
walls decorated with colored pictures
Of pretty Chinese girls and marvellous
specimens Of landscapes, the little ta-
bles covered with white oilcloth, the
general dilapidation Of the establish
ment. Nothing about them seems at
tractiye, and yet these places thrive,
and their number increases with aston
lshinP rapidlty. The reason Is not far
to seek If one is at all familiar with the
lacts. There are several characters.
tics OF the Chinese restaurant which
recommend 1t highly to certain classes
andsseem to indicate that Its popularity
is not mere fad.
Insthe first place 1t should be under
stood that most of these places are
really what they are supposed to be,
eating houses carried on under Chinese
management. The cooks are inyaria-
bly, true Celestials, and in only few
cases are the proprietors Americans.
The food is prepared, therefore, accord
Ing to the most approved methods of
the Middle Kingdom, with the result
that in cheapness and savoriness IL
you like it) 1t can easily outclass simi-
lar places run by American cooks. The
Chinese is master Of the art of max
ing palatable dishes out of next to.
nothing or rather n little Of everything.
Not even the French cook can rival
him. The insipidity Of cheap chop
houses and the sameness of the dairy
lunch counters are thus escaped by
frequenters Of these restaurants. More
over, in spite of appearances the food
is prepared in an extremely cleanly
MANNER No one Is debarred from en-
tering the kitchen, and a visit thither
sends one. back with renewed appetite
to the untidy eating room. So many
who while possessed of small share
Of this worlds goods still affect sport
iness" frequent the restaurant for Its
cheapness and growto enjoy the highly
favored dishes.
There Is also free and easy atmos-
phere about the Chinese eating house
which attracts many would be "Bohe-
mians" as well as goodly share of a
class below the lowest grades Of the
city's many graded Bohemia. Visitors
.loll about and talk and laugh loudly.
When the waiter Is wanted some one
emits shrill yell which brings an an
swerlng whoop from the kitchen, fol-
lowed sooner or later by little Chi
nese at jog trot. Any one who feels
like 1t may stroll into the kitchen and
try little pigeon English on the cook.
The proprietor will teach anybody to
use the chopsticks and roar with laugh
ter over the failures Of the novice. Ev-
erybody does as he or she pleases with
In certain very elastic bounds. The
limit isyreached sooner in some places
than IN others, for while some of the
houses are before midnight at least
perfectly well conducted others are of
more than questionable respectability.
1t is curious and interesting to note
that under American management the
tone Of these places Is lower than when
the Chinese are In sole control.
These new up town places are not SO
good, either in moral or culinary
way, as those down in Chinatown. It
Is usual to speak as II Mott and Pell
streets were the city's sink Of iniquity,
and 80 they are in some respects, but
there are no Chinese restaurants In the
neighborhood as disreputable as one or
two up town. The clientele Of the
down town places Is above suspicion as
rule. Chinese drop in for their meals,
and dweilers from up town come either
from curiosity or because they have
learned to like good Chinese cooking.
Up town the bills Of fare are more lim-
tied. .'Yockaman," 'chop suey" and
''chowman" are the pieces de resist
ance. They answer the purpose GER
tainly, for % cents worth Of some
kinds Of chop suey served with rice
will make q toothsome dish for two
people. Tea is served free Of charge,
and the quantity Is not limited. But
no one should Judge the Celestials' Gu
linary skill by these up town houses.
Many of the guests in these restau-
rants come regularly. Frequently men
and women come with pals to buy the
food and take it home. Negroes are in
disproportionately large numbers. They
seem to like the Chinese. and indeed
the noise In the kitchen reminds one Of
the similar condition of southern kitch-
ems under negro management. How
ever solemn the Chinese may seem to
be In public. he ls cheerful creature
| In his own kitchen. Talk and laughter,
even music during "off" hours. float out
to the dining room. All the servants
seem ready to break into smiles at the
smallest provocation. They are always
reudy to exchange jests with their pa
irons. but familiarity never becomes
lmpertinence. The Chinese doesn't
care what happens SO long as he is left
unmolested. He likes everything to be
sllpshod and merry.-New York Trib-
| une.
why "weddine Breakfasts"
"In nll my experience of wedding
breakfasts" "said guest at a wedding,
Il have never understood why the