The daily morning journal and courier., 1901-06-20
A JOURNEY IN AFRICA.
CURIOSITIES OF MODERN 1LGE-
 RIA.
Moham m edan Cemeteries-Arnb Cere- moBtaIs- Bou- Zarea-A Trappist Mon-

Ear ea-A Trappist Mon.
 astery.
 Especial Correspondence of the Journal
 and Courier)
 Bou-Zarea, Algiers, May 10.-Being
 on the edge of the Dark Continent, we
 are natuarlly consumed with desire to
 penetrate the unknown interior. Of
 course our present desultory ramblings
 are not equipped for serious explora
 tions: but thanks to modern railways,
 any traveller may nowdays go from Al
 giers two or three hundred miles to-
 ward the "heart" of Darkest Africa.
 Several interesting Arab villages are
 easily accessible by omnibus or car
 riage; and various short excursions
 may be made in the saddle, with per-
 feet safety so far as the natives are
 concerned.
 From the Place du Government--the
 fine large square in the lower town of
 Algers-omnibuses run every half
 hour to Mustafa Superior beautiful
 suburb on the slopes of the hills south
 of the port; and other buses go daily
 to Fl Biar and BouIarea,, among the
 pine woods of the higher plateau El
 Biar (the Wells), is the typical Arab
 village, struggling along the dusty
 highway which forms it's principal
 street; while Bou-zarea, few miles
 farther on, is as unlike it as can well
 be imagined, being thoroughly Euro-
 pean. Both, however, are favorite re-
 ac ,tt,fn yicitf
 to this now popular sanitarium, and have many elegant French and Moor
 ish villas, set amid charming gardens ad the most entranclng views of land and sea to be found near the Mediter- ranean.M Most of the English residents of Algiers have their homes in the Fl Biar suberb, including. the consul gene ral and several titled families Their are also a number of convents and oth- CT charitable institutions. The Bon Pasteur C"Good Shepherd" in English), is very large asylum for children, as we'll as a refuge and rerormatory for abandoned women--not a wise combi- nation, 1t would seem to the casual ob- server. Another orphanage for girls is in charge of the good sisters of St. Vincent de Paul; and still another, for boys, belongs to the same sisterhood. Midway between these two flourishing asyums stands the great head estab- 1ishment of the Freres de Ia Doctrine Chretienne who have primary schools for boys all over the province. few miles farther on are the springs of Ain Zeboudja, which supply the upper town of Algiers with water. Here is another large Orphanage (ProtestanD; and in the same neighborhood is the Petit Lycee, once a Jesuit orphanage now devoted to younger class of boys than those received in the Fl Biar asylums. So you see that whatever else may be lacking in northern Africa, it is not the cardinl virtue of Chris tian charity.
 Going to Bou-Zarea, 1t is better to take carriage rather than the public | vehicle, the hire of the former being | very cheap, seven francs for the trip | direct, or about fifty cents an hour, in l American money, if stops are made en | route. And you will certainly feel in- | clined tomake many halts and detours l First, nearing the Mustafa suburb, is 1 the splendid palace of the Deys, now l the summer home of the French gover- and worthat least a pass Ing glimpse. At a higher point you turn frsom the road to inspect the enor- f nous reservoir which Hussein Pasha built in 1922, to supply the four acque- ducts of Algiers with purest water. Farther on are two great hospitals, each with numerous white buildings grouped together like village and set In the midst of extensive gardens. Appropria tely enough, several cemete- ries are clust cred near. Algiers gene ral burial-ground is in the French tyle,--incomparably ugly, with multi -udinous wreaths of black and white oeads strung on wires into caricatures ,f leaves and flowers. One corner of it s reserved for the consular corps and heir families, corresponding to the an- ,ient consular cemetery under the Turkish government; and no interment ,an be made in it without the consent If the dean of corps diplomatique, who happens at present to be the English ,onsul-general Next is the new Jew sr cemetery, their ancient burial place having been recently appropriated by he government for public purposes. At the very top or the nlll IS 'lHe pIel- | y cemetery of the Commune of Musta a. which is not nearly so foreign in ap ,earance as it's name indicates, but al most a counterpart of an English coun- ryegraveyard About thirty years ago he larger portion of 1t has set aside or the use of Anglo-Saxon in Algiers. The Bishop of Gibraltar came over to onseorate it. the English and Ameri- an residents planted it with shrubs nd flowers and have ever since care- ully tended it at their own expense. More interesting than either to low rs of the curious are the two Moham- nedan cemeteries, with their queer 1arabouts, or tombs of the saints, and ' heir lime- washed Koubbas glistening ( n the sun. In one of them is the -oubba of Sidi Mohammed ben Abd- | r-Kahman bou Koberain-''the saint l ,ith two tombs." He it was who ' 1unded the strange religious fraterni- | v to which vast numbers of Kabyles l Y nd Arabs are affiliated. After having l lade a voyage to Egypt he came to 2 lgiers, with Baba Momammed Pacha, | nd lived here many years, While on | visit to his native place in Kabylia, i | the country of the Beni Ismail, he C jed and was buried there, a splendid ] r ,mb being erected over his remains. ut the Algerians wanted his body for | q le miracles it was believed to be ca