Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1901-08-29

The woman that I dread most to de-
sign gowns for" said an artist .Tho COM
poses costumes for New York women, to a
New York Sun representative, rs
the one who looks as though she was
built for the center Of the stage" | refer
to the snowy looking, large, often opu-
lontly charming woman with pronounced
individuality. There are any number o
such types in fashionable society here and
abroad, as we'll as on the stage.
Owing to their vivid Coloring, eXuber-
ance Of temperament, abundant vitality
and over enthusiasm this feminine type
can only be classed as the physically
SNOWY, 1t is found in the very highest
and the lowest walks of life. 1t is not the
typical, aristocratiC type, vet queens pos
sess it when they are most queenly, and
dairy maids are also endowed with the
plontitude of vital charm which express
itself so aggressivey. To gown such a
woman smartly is an undertaking. Rarely
can she be trusted 20 choose her OWN
froclIS or hats Her temperament is too
eXuberant.'
The artist has her studio on Fifth aveuuc
Unlike other studios where real work 10
accomplished 1t is luXuriously furnished
and hung with pictures of beautiful women
in beautiful gowns There are photographs
and water Colors showing different types
OF women All are handsomely gowncd ac-
costing Il fashion plate in their outlines.
SNOWY women are not necessarily large,
although they incline to height and plump
ness the artist continued. They are
rarely thin. A very thin woman. of even
such pronounced type as YVette Gull
bert, cannot be classed thus, for despite
Nine. Gulbert's wonderful red hair her
skin is white and Opaque. She is poster
esqre in an impressionistic way, but she
is not vivid with warm tints Of flesh
! Women of the pronounced type to which
! refer require far more careful study from
tailor, millner and modiste and a much
more adept maid than the woman of less
aggressive beauty. Blondes are more apt
to be Of this vivid type than brunetteS,
that is to say, there are more of them, but
the brunette type is by far the more strik-
ing. Some large red-haired women are a.
most spectacular physically. Women with
fresh compilations and snow-white hair
will also command attention. and this
nowadays is the very last result that a
woman of taste aspires to.
when the SNOWY woman is not beauti-
full which is often the case, She is CON
fronted with a still more serious problem.
Many of these women make themselves
positively dowdy in their attempts to sub
due their natural tendencies toward what
is known on the stage as a good presence.
"Onc Of my clients, who is known as "A
great beauty, never purchases or leaves an
order unless | accompany her or write out
ideas, that are really rcstri, lions. as to her
orders. When she came to me she was IN
distress She had warlrobes fun of cos
tunes, all much too gorgeous for her ma
turally respleudent type of form and col
or. She was and Is a Brunnhldc, a mod
ern goddess, but now she Is a well dress ed
goddess, suggesting in her gowns an eX.
qulsitely fine taste in dress. This she doe.
not possess naturally. Although educated
to q degree. she has some strain Of tbs
savage in her which calls for glitter anC
color and even sound. She told me once
she only liked her rope of pearls for the
musical way in which they Clashcd wher
she walked.
Thin, pale women with colorless, dead
looking hair are often envious OF thes,
strong and physically handsome women
but the slender paler woman can dres
without one uarter the thought that III,
goddess woman must give to every dcta.
of costume and of toilet. If it were tn
fashion TO wear draperies instead of gowns
the goddess would have the advantage, bu
: she has To be careful when It comes t,
picking out her frocks to secure neutra
tintings, severe lines and quiet styles in al
the small belongings as well as the NOR
important items of her Quitting.
She must affect simple hardressing an,
, absolutely no fuzzy effects The show!
woman who attempts to be fluffy, an,
nan is su'H ""ii'rn 10 ~ * no! M pro
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