Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1901-03-23
Observation-Disclosures ~

Special Correspondence al an
poodo. spain. Jan. i've had ae,
maize reached the coast about 10 olu
Grm adicu to Spain when-at III.
a,ronr recommendation Of parry VI
S~g tourists whom we met al
Maiaea.-we cancelled our passage v"
,bo opt going steamer and reraeed our
s,ors ,o see "the only Ronda'' why
.hopd we hesitate, after whole year
IN the land Of the dons, to give one
more little week to seeing one oil 'he
oldest ploces in the world2 The reason
why so few travellers visit Ronda IS DE-
cause Il lies far from the beaten track
ard con be- reached only by stage over
di0inult and dangerous sierra But mo-
node over made the trip without feeling
rinhly repaId Nowadays you may go by
rau nom Malaga as far as Gobanles'
a dlrtv little station at the base OF u
yidge Of rugged rocks. where the dlh-
peneia ride begins II Is only lew
miles mostly straight up and down. but
Inc fare IL from eight TO twelve span
ian dollars according to location OF seat
ana how much the guard can get out OF
Won. In most countries where stages are
run. outside seats are considered pre-
ferahle ana cost more than those IN
side; but II Is the reverse In spain
where people avoid fresh air as a pestlI-
enpe and wrap themselves up TO the
ewes from the lehtest breeze. we
learned afterwards that six pesctas Is
the regular price for outside seats. and
eight for inside. but foreigners are al
ways charged more. on the supposltlon
that they must have plenty OF money
else why nre they travelling? The Co
hanles dilgcncn was certainly invented
by some genius Of a sarcastic turn Of
mind It locks more like a RACED
canal boat than q coach. and It's great
height gives II dangerously top-heayy
appearance There are no springs to
speak NJ, and IN the largest Of It's sew
eral compartments six persons sit fac
ing each other. Door and windows are
invariably closed. and everybody who
can afford Il smokes continuously
while those who cannot add their quota
TO the
BoQuET or DOORS
by exhallng garlic Take the top by all
means. though icy winds from the up
per sierra chill you to the marrow
Even there vile smells pursue you, for
only a strip Of leather intervenes be-
tween the luggage and freight-the lat
ter including rancid oil, garlic pudding.
bacaloa (c0d fish,. the other odoriferOus
native delicacies But the style Of the
turnout compensates for all such slight
Inconvenience The mayoral or con
ductor Is as pompous and dlctalorlal as
such m important position demands.
In Spain He wears a wide Jacket and
fowlng trousers trimmed with u guam
tity Of scarlet cloth and adorned With
silver coins instead Of buttons. n gor.
geous silken sash and catanes. or
Andalusian hat, somewhat larger than
wash-bowl ilat-topped broad
brimmed, a distant relative Of the Mex
lean sombrero. He keeps a small mir
ror conveniently at hand, that nc may
frequently ascertain the exact Condl-
ton OF his cherished spit-curls-." beau
catchers," | believe the girls call them
which are plastered In double cres-
cents on each side OF his saddle -hued
countenance, and are manlfesty the
pride Of his heart. Tucked snugly be-
hind his ears ana held secure by hair
creased to the stiffness Of spikes. are
lunches OF cigarettes for the days use.
tie brandishes an enormous
whip as the badge Of his
profession and scepter ~ authority,
and his mouth continually overfows
with strange and original oaths Of
largest dimensions His so-called AS
slstant-who does all the works. a
sort OF running driver. known as lei
lagal, whose duty 1t Is 20 urge on the
poor abused mules by petng them
win rocks, up hill and down dale, 20
they never so well There Is a postl-
Han too, whose arduous position, being
FORCED TO RIDE
both night and day, without rest, has
gained for him the sohriquet OF "the
condemned" Most picturesque OF all
Is the team--the hair having been
clipped from their sides In fanclful de-
slgns-scr0lly, zig -zags, arabesques
flowers, birds liZards-al accurately
portrayed and intended to initiate EN-.
hroldercd housings. II is gypsy art,
seen nowhere else In such extravagant
perfection, and rs practice has des-
cended from vagabond father TO vaga.
bond son, through centuries The
mules are also wonderfully bedlzzlned
with iinglIng bells. and tassels in all
the oolors OF the rainbow. their har-
ness weighted with big. headed brass
nails, arranged In patterns, while the
shoulders Of each are topped with three
hugo punches Of wool. dyed yellow,
purple and green. our fellow passen-
gers-a company OF young peasants,
going to Ronda for some fiesta. were
no Insignificant part OF the show The
women wore short shirts-ge generally Of
coarse black flannel. with two strips
" scarlet cloth cut saw-tooth fashion,
above the hem; red or blue bodces,
laced up like corsets over white chem
ises, and gay-hued handkerchefs on
their heads. Their swarthy gallants
looked exactly as II dressed FOR an
opera chorus, in their knee breeches
and funny little Jackets, cut 80 short
that they did not quite meet the red
sashes worn IN lieu Of suspenders.
The road TO Ronda passes through
magnificent scenery. sometimes skirt
Ing the edge OF dizzy precipices, and
winding down into the dark rayines,
from whose dapthq only a norrous 81 rim