The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1901-10-20
u FRJIi PItI> COWS IISS
IN ItSHION Now.


for omen oi Husincss and of Fashion.
The doom - the ,ailpr-made gown,
long prayed Tor by fashionable drc..-
makers. has at last b.eu spuken.' said a
NTH avenue tailor, who for ycarr LA.
been making gowns Tor New York women.
Not that the gown made 10y a tailor viii
not Away remain a f%aNout". but tho
tailuf-maIe type. whicn ha> become almost
the national type 81 dress. will II. merged
INTO the more s~faorfui and elegant stv.s
OF gownIng, practically hau,=hed when lie
tailor-rnaic gown first obtained IT, vogue
Ito woman of fashion will continue -
have her gown, made hy her tailor, tut
they viii tot b" the severe garments that
have come To ho accepted a. the tailor
gown. In reality. tailpr- have maU"
dancing gowns aud wedding gowns =
most elaborate designs and huusy ma
ter;als for customer, who liked the smoothly
hitting styles that the tailor cut and finish
turn out. but the taiior-mado girl. tng
and thin. with her linen collar and her
Ascot tie, will be the business girl. who
long & discovered how well adapted tho
fashion wac Tor her working hours
-Wigcn the tailor gown flrst made its
appearance II was lmpu--lbl" except 10
women OF means. i ~a- a costly luxury
and the few womCu'- iailprs were the very
high-prced London makers with house.
In America. II wn- - first cyclu-ivene~,
that ma s this fashion Of rock ~ tfe-
mendpusIy popular
Tailoring establishments were opened
on all sides. which turned out these gowns
al lower piccs, ard soon M. moderately
well-on woman was able 20 make an APP
pAarance quite A. correct a. her Weather
sister While there IL all the difference,
ia the world between tho wcll-made and
elegantly tinished tailor gown aud it,
cheaper Imitation To the experienced eye,
the average observer cannot detect ths
difference that turks in a skirt draped over
"A silk lining and one constructed with "a
cotton lining Time and wear bring out
the true beauty and lasting qualities 81 ths
well made costume. while the low priced
but effective imitation rI.saiily loses ~
SHAPE, its hang and it, general appearance.
These cheaper dresses carry out tho
Idea for a time II carefully brlshsd, pressed
and looked after. But n severe rainstnrm
will often dispose 81 one Of these cheap
frocks in a day. wrinkllng and spotting
the poor cloth. causing the seams TO pucker
and the hem TO shrink aud sag
Not 90 with the well-mads tailor gown.
One costing say SEQ will wear through
all sorts OF weathers without a wrinkle.
II will retain its shape and NAV be worn
Tor a couple VI seasons without losing
lie perfect appearance. Some little chang,
In the fashion Of a sleeve or a skirt ma
condemn IL after this time, but women
have told me that they have continued
10 wear a tailor gown often through u
fourth season. A woman will wear an old
tailor gown because the comfortable III
appeals 10 her Then Il does duty FOR
marketing and for rainy weather and will.
after all this. surprise IL owner some
times by the good condition of tho cloth
and the manner In which It's lines have
remained
One reason for the lasting qualities
OF tho tailor gown rs, Of course, that women
do not wear Il In che house These gowns
are removed on getting home" from visiting,
church or shopping and a house gown sub
stituted. Women do not wear out thoir
old gowns for shopping and travelling as
they used 90 formerly. Tn fashionable
shopping districts, on tho contrary, are
centres for the display OF pretty hats AID
costumes especially Ia the afternoon.
Women soften the tailor gown for after
noon wear with n feather boa or a FUZZY
chiffon ruchs, a picture hat and a cOrSags
flower. but In the morning linen collars
and cuffs arr moro In evidence. Then.
too. we have made up several tailor gown,
OF tafe,a silk with ia. APPLIED seams ami
all tho severity 81 cut that marks the cloth
gown. Thu was In the spring 81 this
year. however. This autumn showed a
decline In tho strictly tailored styles
The business woman readily di-cov-
er,d that the cloth gown with a cotton
shirt waist and a linen collar and CUTS
was AN ideal working dress. With ia.
vogue u the short walking skirt IL became
morr than ever adapted for the daily jour-
nav Ia and from the ofioe. But whi!s
the short skirt has h.en welcomed bv dp.ss
rpformers and praised 10y physicians. 10
has nevor l-sn greatly affected by tho
woman 81 fashion except In the country
and on the golf field. Ia fact, many women
declare tho ankle skirt hiieuus and refu-s
"a H. won over e. tbs army u th1ec that
have adouted u.