The sun., 1901-09-29
Why NOT new YORK FASHIONS?
PARISS SUPREMACY N DRESS
AND ITS CAUSES.
a French woman ThIrks n Is Due 10 the
Artistic Atmospheric Dre.makcr
Islam~s American women --Outiook
for MAKING NesieI Gowns Here

an xious- looking women who are usually
the first 20 declare dutihble effects aboard
ship. and who strain every nerve To reach
the customs officers on the pier ahead 81
other passsngcr~. These are the dress
makers and milliners, who give their un-
divided attention to clothing wealthy
American women in a fashion which has
caused them "a bs favorably remarked
the world over.
Twice year a. leas, a small army 81
business men and women from the United
States cross the ocean for the purpo-. Of
securing the latest European models IN
gowns, cloaks. honnets. lingerie. and pay
almost any sum TO accomplish their object
Many thousands of dollars change hands
in the trAnsactiun. and long before th.
coveted garments are spread cat before
admiring eyes In the various private show
rooms Ia New York and other large cities
Of this country snug sums have hccn de-
posted In IN. banks on the other side To
the credit of European fashion makers.
The American clientele of the Paris dress
makers IL not. however. made up entirely
Of dreasnakers. Many wealthy women
Of America spend some part Of every year
abroad and few of them resis, tn" t-mpts-
tion Of getting few things from Paris be-
fore turning their faces nome~a ard again.
A. a result the Paris headquarters Of RASH
ions do a steady business the year round.
which ~ quite independent OF wnai they
call the trade.
Ever sinc. the infancy ~ the American
Republic Parts has been tn" Mecca "i
fashion's devote,~ ami from present. I'M
dication- II may remain ro fOT many years
10 come THE annual uilgrimage~ ni
dressmAkers Inilliners. buyers Of all kinds
are NOR. regular than ever and the re-
suhing rNp-Ddnures grow larger every
wear Not VII hs' anding oil it, native ami
imported clcverne--, Arnerica. u -'eins, II
quite unequal To the feat uf creating
bureau of wnman's fashions
Tremendous strides have been made IA
th. last score ~ years IA tn" I nlted states
i'm th. iBanufaCtJIfe uf various fabrics
which enter into he composition 81 women'-
garments Cottons, linens. Silks Satins.
velvrts and laccs, which In large quantities
ar, turned out by American looms hut
the making OF them up into dress models
sufficiantly novel anu ARTISTIC Co set the
fashion- Tor the home market NJ least
se.ms To H. an exploit almost impossible 10
achieve New York a- producer Of
original designs for wonicn's fashions II
-rarcely 20 be considered. Franc" con
tinus- To lead all the other countries IN
this re-ps~rt. the models of London, Vienna
and @, hH capitals being according to
those cr.aie-i IA Parls
American women Of all ON the globe.
are the ks-ene-t after novelties Ia dress.
American women. said IA. head of
famous Paris houS' recently, ar. the most
critical CiIsto ofnef- W. have and w. depend
largely upon them TO make tain of our
models popular. They az" al-o among
our most extravagant buyers
In the face of such a statement II may
he considered all the stranger that Amrri-
can invention should be unable To Great.
fashion models.
Never will there bc n headquarters for
fashion models in this country exclaimed
the French proprietor 81 q drcs-naking
-, ahli-hment in this city which IL pat
rnniy.d' by wealthy women.
But why not. Madame asked a listener.
America il notei for her inventions and
the willingness of American women to
spend lberally for novelties ought. alone,
10 b. spur enough 10 provoke splendid
achievements in designing dress models.
Think too of the many gifted French men
and women in New York who might win
fame by devotins their energies TO that
work
Tho French woman shook her head and
repeated even more emphatIcally; You
viii never make models lshe pronouncs~t
n mo-dell-l In this country You have
no, the atmosphere.
-Wha, do Won mean hv atmospherr'
why the artistic atmospheric Over
here the commercial Atmosphere n the
mos, noticeable Every one wants 10 make
money tn get rich fast By the sid of
money In this country ~ H. possible To ri-r
from The lowest class 10 the highest: there
fore Ia get money j. the chief aim of the
workinsman or woman. and none Ia willing
20 spend hours over work that viii bring
them little or nothing
Nothing echo.d some on" Surely |
the designing 81 models for womens cos
TUNES II a well paid hu-ine--
Not In France was the repy, Most |
p-.pp,e imagine that the models shown NJ |
the leading French houses are evolved by |
high priced employees specially httsl |
for that work But II II not - II u the |
humble folk. IN" very poorest who do much |
of the work k-people who are willing To /
spend long hourS and davs over the de- |
v.lopmen, Of one idea, happy II a. last
their work IL accepted and rewarded with |
n few francr
In the poorer quarters 81 Paris liv"
women who spend the greater part ~ their \
time bonding over piec"s ~ stih whit" 4
muslin which they endeaVor TO shape into /
some,h hing which will find favor IN III" /
eyes ~ The propiie'ors ~ the big e-t ahliSh-
ments Five dollars j. a hig pric" for one
~ these miniature muslin models, half
that sum IL the amount Cfiener paid
sOf course II must bc remembered that 1
the majority - the models purchased
from these people seldom Weld more than
one idea each. perhaps only suggestion
I'm one the QUICK eve 0I 'Nf examiner fts@-
,e~,. pcrhaT,-, novel idea for "a collar.
n ctf n woke, sleeve and u IL bought FOR
that alone Other may suggest a newer
idea Tor the hang of n skirt, the curve of a
bodice, the arrangement 81 a hit of trim
ming and thcy too find ready market
alter on moro skillful designers study and
compare the various models. and select
,hcir most attractive features to combine
IN the imposing models 81 hrocade-. broad-
cloths. silks and lhcc- which are ot set the
fashions for the women 81 both Europe
and America
'why Is IL that French women are willing
to work for 80 little money!
because they spend -o LITTLE: class dis
'inction- arr such In France that the work
ing woman never trie- either Ia dress or
~ vie of living to compete with those above
her In America the maid on hcr SUNDAY
nut nigh, often. by her attire, bc con
founded with her mistress the shop girl
strains every nerve 20 dress like the woman
abe waits upon In France A. YOU very
well know. thrrr 10 no such composition.
The wives and daughters ~ artisans and
irad-~men dr~s~ simply and inespensively,
domestic servants w.S.r uniformly IN"
plainc~i 81 clo,hing rhis - ono r~ason at
East why the incsntiv" 10 earn large sums
J. not 49, great ~ it j. over here
A hurpau of original fashion models
In New York" cried madam" m conclusion,
II the same time waving hcr hand In fare