davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1901-05-25

From the Millinery Trade Review.
Birds wings ana breasts now vary both
quilts and flowers in the decoration of out
ing hats, Especially noticeable on some of
the latest of the hats for scrViceable wear
of Il turban Of fancy fiber braid of stout
weave, in the natural Sunburn tint is a
turban with low, broad, oblong-oval
crow. and the brim wide and turned up
loosely all around. Full drapery of white
silk null wound around the crown fills in
and a pair of halffold white pigeons
wings divide at the front and rest on each
siue of the crown. a golf hat with medi-
um tall gored crown of stitched and stiff
ened white linen duck has the brim bound
with white silk gallOOn. folded white surah
around the crown, with pair of half
folded white pigeons wings stuck in at the
left side. y very remarkable sailor hat of
a heavy new braid of stout whole straw of
dark rich Mocha coffee brown. with a
medium-tal square crown, and Il fiat brim
seen on sailor hats, has a folded wired
band of No. 80 velvet ribbon set up on the
edge of the crown, confined by a large
fancy gilt button whore crossed at the
back, and set up around the brim at about
the middle of the width, a bow held by two
gilt buttons terminating the band at the
back Two long mottlcd-brown condor
quilts are thrust through the bow one
lying within and the other outside the, vel
vet band on the brim. y smaller sailor hat
of fiber braid in Arab brown has folded
drapery around the crown of gIacc taffrta
in nacre tints. and Il fun tUft of wjItcd
pdnSlCS set al the left of front
Evening star., 1901-05-25
LAUNDRY CONVENIENCES,
How to EconOmize Time and Strength
in HOusework.

An ironing table ought to be high enough
for the ironer to bend her elbows at right
angles and work without STOPPING. In recll-
oning the height, allow for thick mat or
excelsior cushion under foot. 1t is a great
economist of strength and backaches. Pick
out sound deal, free of knots or warpng,
and see that the drawer works easily. To
furnish the table properly take first a soft,
coarse all-wool blanket, fold it by warp
thread, lay the fold upon long edge of the
table. and make very smooth, then trim all
round, save al the fold, exactly it lies,
first making sure that the under side is as
free of wrinkles as the upper one. Cut a
four-inCh square of stout muslin for each
corner. double the squares to triangles and
sew them fast. Their use is to slip over
the corners of the table, thus holding the
blanket in place. When the blanket is
washed take off the squares and remove
the whipping from the edges. Make iron
ing table covers of unbleached sheeting.
Cut them three inches bigger than the table
top all round, hem the edges narrowly and
miter three of the corners, sewing them
fast: then in the double work a couple of
eyelets either side and lace a tape through
them. BY tieing this tape tight after slip
ing the mitred corners over the table cor
ners all need of pins is done away with and
firm, smooth unwrinkable surface as
Sured.
cover SklfI ana sleeve DodTQS the same
way-first the double woolen cloth sewed
firmly on, then with removable muslin slips,
hemmed at the small ends, and laced snug
over the large one. Fit under and upper
covers well. so either side can be used. A
bosom board is a necessity in doing up
shirts. 1t should be also square, of very
thick cardboard covered fourfod with
flannel. If there are many children to iron
for a small size shirt board and several
sizes in sleeve boards soon pay for them
selves in saving time.
Provide the ironing table further with
either light trivet asbestos mat to hold
the irons, a clean Wiping cloth, a shallow
wooden box with salt for rubbing a rough
iron smooth, a smaller box for either white
wax or white soap, and at least three clean
soft holders. In addition, furnish the laun-
dry with a folding clothes horse of white
wood. which may be turned into a screen
as clean clothes are hung on it; big
starch kettle, agateware or copper, or block
tin; several checsecloth StrainerS and at
least three sheets of cheeSe-cloth to cover
the clean clothes while they air after iron
ing. EMILY HOLT
Evening star., 1901-05-25

broad borders of blue. crimson, green or
lilac hemsttched on in white Ribbon
wrapped handles are the latest novelties in
sunShade manufacture. The stick Of tho
parasol is first of plain polished wood,
round and beautifully uniform in size from
tip to tip. over the wood ribbons Of differ
ent widths, textures and ColorS are braided
to form geometric patterns, and at the
base of the stick the ends are tied in a full
ana flowing bow. This gay and COnVeu-
tonal device harmoniZes well with the taft
1eta. pongee or satin coverings. but the
most costly parasols have handles Of ebony
and ivory knohbed and braceleted with
jewels. From Japan are imported the most
eXquisltely painted and embroidered para
sol tops OF silk. satin and silk linen. These
however, are. as rule. far too costly and
too beautiful to be carried at any time.
save very late in the afternoon. when the
sun mas lost all power to do the delicate
coIors any harm. The handles of theS, are
OF carved ivory, and sometimes of wood ex-
quisitely treated with delicate silver or
bronze inlay. MARY DEAN
Evening star., 1901-05-25
For Elderly Women.

from liarIi"rS HaZ@r
In the mixed oxford suitings. in dark
gray and black. are a number of different
qualities that make up well in coat and
SKIRT ana 1t is just as necessary for an
oldcr woman TO nave coat and skirt cos
tune as Tor young girl. The skirt is best
that mas harlng touEce at the side and a
front breadth narrower at the top than at
the bottom, and with skirt of medium
length. The Jacket should ALWAYS be three
quarter length and with straight fronts
with pointed reVcrS. and fronts faced wit h
some dull silk 50 that the coat can be worn
open If desired If a woman is stout she
should have her coat made rather shape
less, and with box back with a seam in
the middle, and at the sides curved in
somewhat to the tigure. this being more be-
coming than tight-fittng jacket. In bla elk
wool a lightweight material made in this
way, with the flounce trimmed with bands
or folds of satin makes smart gown.
Evening star., 1901-05-25
Many Innovations in Summer sIiIIi-
merry.
From tie Millinery Trade Review.

I'Lll bIie MIiilhefy lraue review.
Fashion this season favors innovations I'm
all things. and milliners desirous Of COM
bining something particularly elegant will
order for its trimming flowers not hitherto
seen on the market. | have only as vet
come across one hat ornamcnt,d with a
wreath Of ivy geranium, but the idea is GER
tain to take on, the foliage of this plant
being extremely decorative. and the flowers
lighter and more graceful than ordinary
geraniums. In this case they are in two
colors, very pale pink and red; the capeline
brim has a foundation of green tulle en-
tirely hidden 10y the foliage. whereas the
crown is in pink chip. Sometimes il must
be owned, the desire for novelty leads
aStray.
l cannot recommend the idea Of sewing
small punches OF cherries all round the
brim of a hat so that the berries dangle
over its edge, although in the special in
stance referred to harmony of color Is
maintained, the straw shape being green
nacre with mauve. and the cherries deep
purple, almost black, with a white bloom
upon them. Much more becoming is an
other hat in dark nacre tones wrcathed
round with bramble the leaves variegated
in tone and the berries red and black.
Evening star., 1901-05-25
What Babies should Wear,


All very small children should be dressed
In white. 1t is a great mistake to put them
into colors. There are plenty Of incxpcn-
sive materials in white to choose from to
make a variety. So soon as the baby is cd
enough to creep, she can have little dimity
creeping frocks, or even brown holland
ones, to put on over the white frock and in
that way the fashion is not 50 expensive a
one as it seems. If extra warmth is de-
sired, 1t can be obtained by thin flanueI
worn under the frGcl. Very long waist Il
effects are now fashionable as soon as chill
dren are put into short clothes; the waist
is a mass Of horizontal tuckS and lines Of
embroidery, with ruffes put on in bertha
style around the yoke or Euimpe With
these frockS there are white saSleS Of the
same material edged with lace, or soft rib
bon SaSheS in bright colors, and for smart
occasions shoulder knots of ribbons to
match the sashes. Colored socks ani shoes
the same color the ribbons look very
dainty and cunning. and are not very eN-
pensiye. When children can wear the
ankle ties these also be had in all
colorS.
Evening star., 1901-05-25
Wash Skirts.

The short stitched tucks which dispose SO
tastefully of the fullness at the back of the
waist, consisting of some six in all, can, if
preferred, be terminated at graduated in
terVals, although in wash skirt it is not
wise to run deeper down than seven or
eight inches, as after washing there is apt
to occur an unpleasing, strained look. In
deed, the chief aim in working out bot h
these skirts to logical conclusion has been
TO make them of Il thoroughly practical or
der in view of their being materializCd in
washing stuffs of light ephemeral cOloring
and at rough calculation a fair allowance
Tor either would be four and a half yards of
double width or eight of wide single that
computation accounting with care for
everything, such as facinSs and the like.
Evening star., 1901-05-25

silk and tea-colored Valenciennes in COM
bination.
Lace Dresses.
A great cause for congratulation among
women is the return of the all-over fiat
lace gown. Fer something like four years
now We have been dutifully wearing ele-
giant robes of the coarSer raised laces over
satin and silk wearing them, indeed, until
they have become vulgarized, initiated In
cheap goods and overdone. Now, however
cream, black and dun antique toned Valen-
ciennes, Mechlin, Cluny, Chantilly and
Spanish laceS have come into their right
full fashionable position, and nothing seems
more hopeleSSly out Of it than a Venetian
or renaissance lace robe. The net laces
in short are placdly elbowing everything
else off the lace counter, and there is a
fluffy, f1ouncy fascination about them that
the heavily woven types could never show.
A few of them, indeed, show motifs from
the heavier sort applied at intervals to the
fiat, cobweb-like surface and some of them
have small figures worked upon them in
spangles. These, however, are the fantasy
effects and can only be applied by dress
makers of infinite tact and high artistic
impulse.
A Passion for HemstitchinE.
Hemstitching has by no means worn its
welcome out. A number of brides have Or
Evening star., 1901-05-25
COrSets and Costumes.

10 be well corseted makes many a cos
tune tell a very different tale-from bulgng
IN one place, contracting in another and
sticking out at odd and irregular intervals
to SLIM shapely figure that can never fail
of carrying off SUCCESSFULLY any kind sort
or description of gown.
Although the first expediture NAV sound
somewhat large, really good, comfortable
corset cannot be procured for less than 81,
running up the scale until one gets into the
tWentieS.
However, once armed with the like, the
corset can be cleaned over and over again
and be none the worse for It,
Corsets cannot form too prominent item
in the feminine toilet
Evening star., 1901-05-25

dies would suggest that they should speak
nicely to the servants, who, If addressed
in kindly manner. are usually quite reauf
to be accommodated In the matter of closed
doors, etc.
To the young men I would say: Be cour-
teous to everybody, even to that unprepos-
sessing looking spinster in the corner with
more than a suspicion of wig. And to the
girls: Do not fancy every man who speaks
civilly to you is consequently enraptured by
your charms You are all on the same foot
ing in a boarding house, and very pleasant
acquaintance are sometimes made between
sensible, self-respecting young people of
both sexes.
Evening star., 1901-05-25
Useful Suggestions for the Shopper

'Nei"i SuSsestidnS Tor the shopper.
Black silk and satin with coored broche
or embroidered flowers is lovely for tea
gowns, tea jackets and pctticoatS. The
hahdSomer and more up-to-date designs
ana colors can be used for gowns or skirts.
the latter being especially desirable for the
matron to wear with bouses for demi-
toilet or tea jackets. These brocades also
make handsome evening wraps with lace,
chiffon and slight touches of velvet or
feathers.
-Four or five yards of silk satin or NOUS
S"l!ne will make a blouse the latter ouan-
tity being ample for full figure or in
plain silk for a slight figure if the blouse
is much tucked Very short lengths of
handsome piece lace, scquined or embroid-
cred net. tinseled lisSe and other extensive
lahrlcs Will serve for abbreviated boleros
TO wear over hlOuScS or bOdiceS
n snort bolero for a low bodice can be
made from as little as tive-eighths of a
yard of eighteen or tWenty-inch material
but the utmost care is necessary and the
smallest quantity is only named in case of
remnants
Remnants of this class are invariably
sold OIL cheap. and with a handsome trim
ming set OH the plaineSt gown and give it
a smart appearance. Short lengths of ac-
Gordon plated chiffon. net or lace are use
ful Tor elbow frills to half sleeves or for
JabotS and vests. Two or three wards of
mousSellne de sole or chiffon in black or
creamy white will make a tucked or plated
blouse or frils or ruchCs for lace or Sc
gum robes. Shorter lengths of tucked silk
or chiffon are useful for the lower part of
blouse having the yoke and sleeves of
transparent lace. OF tucked chiffon one
yard can be used in this fashion. or. with
care, seVen-eighthS of a yard will do with
one and threc-Quarter yards of eighteen
men lace or one yard of double width lace
for the yoke and sleeves A white or black
blouse made in this fashion is delightful
Evening star., 1901-05-25

Vests and stockings, the latter of which
are stern necessities, can be purchased at
various prices, but in this regard no stint
ing is advisable, especially in the matter
of the bias de" cashmere
Four pairs for day wear and two of silk
or openwofk lisle thread for evening are
necessary. At the least suspicion of a hole
waste not a minute ere proceeding to darn
1t, for in no instance more than in stock
ings Is the truth of the old proverb that
" stitch in time saves nine"
Evening star., 1901-05-25

The annexed fiOunce, the empire jacket top
and the long scarf ends are made of sky
blue liberty satin ribbon of sash width
and brocaded over in big pink marsh-mal-
low blooms Nearly all the extravagant
summer neGliges show a combination Of
ribbon bands and lace entire deux whipped
together. and often enough three different
pastel tintS are reflected in the narrow
lines of silk. y gown so made usually
shows the light weight and shining louisine
Evening star., 1901-05-25
Cheerful Cotton Dresses for Early
Morning Wear.
ELBOW SLEEVES AND OPEN At NECK
Stiffly Starched Stuffs Are in
Good Style.
Gu B An H E EELED SLIPPERS


Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
NEW YORK. May 20. 1901.
Gay little cotton house dresses, whether
of plain print, gingham percale weave
blossom at every breakfast table these
warm mornings and flutter cheerfully about
country homes until after luncheon. In
many details they are peculiar to this sea-
son, for they are unusually simple, and to
call them wash gowns is to speak the
truth. Another fine characteristic that the
wash morning frock has developed this
spring is elbow sleeves and slightly open
Evening star., 1901-05-25

The following experiment is so simple that
it may be worth the attention of many
householders who find an accumulation Of
coal dust in their cellars: Mix three parts
of ordinary garden earth with one part saw
dust and pour over it kettleful of boiling
water, in which has been dissolved a little
washing soda. Back a fire of ordinary
household coal well with this mixture. AZ
ter it has burned for two or three minutes
the cahed aust gives out a clear glow CT
heat and burns away much slower than
1lro ona1 >--
Evening star., 1901-05-25

suits are the louisine and very soft sheeny
liberty taffeta. From across the water
they are sending us truly washable rib
bon that is one-half silk and the rest linen
and from England come pongee ribbons in
black, cream, pure white and all the soft
tones of brown. All these have formed a
strong alliance with the cotton brigade
and take their turn at the waShtub with
the sort of equanimity the so-called wash
ribbon never showed. Excepting the white
liberty satin sash widths. flowered ribbons
have found, to put it plainly, that they
have show this spring. A few women.
allured by the show window effects that
the embroidered and stamped and brocaded
ribbons made took them up, but on the
whole the movement toward their estab-
lishment as fashion has been a dead
failure.
Cuban Slippers.
With pretty house dress of cotton the
shoe that accords is "a Cuban heeled slipper
of duIl-surfaced, putty colored kid, having
a broad instep, flap and square leather
covered buckle in front. They make shoes
of the same shape in gray and white can
vas with steel or black buckles, and in
doors they lend the foot an appearance of
being most appropriately clad, as it peeps
beneath the well-starched skirts.
That Cuban heel. which, by the way. is
nothing more than the shape of heel seen
Evening star., 1901-05-25

easy 1t would be for me to fill In the
square-cut corsage with tulle when l did
not want to wear it decollete. Color?
Parme, contra sted with white lace and
stripes of black velvet. The whole surface
of the silk bolaro is covered with vertical
stripes, while the band of lace above the
inevitable fiounce of the skirt is bordered
with undulating lines of it. The corSage
of white taffeta gltters with duh gold en-
brolderies. The glitternS cut trimmings
are no longer considered smart. A double
row of fancy buttons ornaments the front
In connection with handsome clasp de-
signed ostensibly to hold down the lace
covered lapelS of the bolero. The sleeves
are fully. with fOunceS of lace that meet
the Wrinkled gauntets. The corsage l for
got to say, is cut in points t"basqued,'
thlnk they call it in the shops Altogether
II is a costume sufficiently sedate for a ma
iron who has celebrated as many birth
days as has CATHERINE, TAI ROT
Evening star., 1901-05-25

dered their lingerie trimmed only with the
She'reSt hemStitchcd frill-. and the new
driving veil is made of very crisp. clear
silk muslin with a deep p, mStitch,d border
All the l,st of the country paraSo.s are Of
Evening star., 1901-05-25

throat that render it a joy forever on the
pletely.
Anything tubable is devoted to the work
of composing morning toilet and because
the cottons take the starch and hold it there
is marked preference for prints There
are to be had, well the most enchanting
brilliant percales that have a satiny luster
which increases under the laundry expert
ence, and these last are preferred usually
in soft, solid tintS relieved bv touches of
brown or cream batiste entire deux and
tactful applications of ribbon.
a very, very charming type of CrisD
morning toilet is an eggShel white percalc
pin dotted over in dark and bright blue
yellow. cherry red and green. To this black
or Variegated ribbons are added, and if the
wearer is young and pretty she will look
very ike a Dresden china shepherdess.
SGfY Starching
There seems to be a sort of fashionahIe
passion prevailing for materials that can
be starchcd to boardlike stiffness. The
really smart damsel does not wear her
print morning frock until it has been
through the WashWoman's hands. and the
cuffs and reVerS and skirts of it reappear
as 1t lined with crinuIine. Under her
whispering skirts white cotton pettico1t
boasting a tWo-foot deep and very fun
and StarChy embroidery iioHmce is used as
ii further stay and support. \ g0o,;iy ma
jOrltE of the prettieSt cotton dresses are
fancifuly bounced. and SOM. of them ,Ira
OVcrlaid with lines or yrvatbS of cnarco
cream washable CIuny, from under which
tn" goods Is cut away. in order to afford "A
sight of Il brightly cUl0rcd undprsllirt of
cotton.
The ribbons that chime best with these
Evening star., 1901-05-25

PARIS, May II. 1901.
Never was there a season SO bercft Of
novelties i'm dress. In search of them l
have visited within the past week every
Ccuturiere on the Avenue de TOpcra. the
Rue de Ia Paix and the Rue Rivoli and re-
ceived but small encouragement from the
august Clothicrs Of the worlds beau monde.
/ haunted the theaters where the smartest
plays are appearing and ran out to the
lcastS'romiSing mUsicales and teas in the
hope of obtaining an inspiration. All, but
apostles of fashion are forced to toll
these days if would cnlghten the
world with the details of new modes.
had meant to have a pleasant afternoon
at Versailles yesterday with Nine. de Gre
nelle, who wished to take her studious
young niece to- potter around in the barn
lie rooms and nail down in her scholastic
mind the history Of the three last Louis of
FTaG~c by an inspection of the shell that
once was their abiding place. Mile de
Evening star., 1901-05-25
Paid for Waiting.

The curtain rose on the second act. find
ing me low in spirit and irritated in nerves
for the cause OF my miseries Mile. de Gre
nelle. insisted on reading aloud choice Sc
lectloas from her history book during the
entr actes- 1t seems that the play was
timed to represent one OF the most har-
rowing periods of the French revolution,
land the characters Were all historic. Well
when the curtain rolled up displaying
second scene more tOpSy turvy than the
first my eye was caught by a charming
creature who enacted one of the minor
parts. She was beauty, and her gown
Evening star., 1901-05-25
nrl3.21. 1.myfIN2a- II

on all slippers of colonial times. bids very
fair to make the long loved and highly in
furious Louis Nv heel look for another job.
Already. faStidious and tickle womankind is
tossing aside her Stilted French slippers to
new shoes. Not only are house and even
ing footgear appearing in this new shape,
but walking shoes are falling into line. The
chief charm. of course, of the Cuban heel
is its novelty, and then it certainly does
help to minimize the length of the foot. and
add to the wearers height without seeming
so cruelty uncomfortable and dangerous to
health and sure lOcomOtion as its now vul-
CARRIED French relative.
June NcgIiScS.
From shoes to neg!igeS is not very long
leap in some of the department shops where
they are showing some exquisite lounging
gowns contrived from odds and ends of
ribbons. Last spring there was an extend
ed vogue for fancy waists and pctticoats
and things made of strips of silk, herring
boned corded together. That fashion
diu not at first prove contagious al least
as far as the Americans were concerned
but ii has appeared here in mild and
lovely form just as Paris is recovering from
its influence.
The pretty breakfast gown in the sketch
illustrates the advantageous use of three
different kinds of ribbons. The body and
sleeves of the robe are wrought OF black
panne ribbon pin dotted in white and al
lied to plain cream white panne strips.
Evening star., 1901-05-25

lightened for the elevation of the masses
As is usual in such cases. the masses staid
away, and after had yawutd through In.
first act / wished most earnestly l could
D.. rH rG.rr,
Evening star., 1901-05-25

details. l noted the small pompoms sinu-
iatihS blush roses and the bOuillonnes of
Whlte mousseline that formed a border
above the shaped flounce sind upon the
plated skirt The slightly bloused corsag
was drdped with lace fichu 50 fine and
delicate that | should not be surprised TO
hear that II was an heirloom from that fair
ahccstreSS who followed Marie Antoinette
10 tn" scaffold. Her hair charminclv ar
ranged parted ana slightly waved all over
the head. was drawn loosely back into a
low coil that terminated in q couple. of long
Curls- gemmed comb supported the coil
lust a trlfc above the neck. and that was
all l dare say her escorts six months in
come would not pay for her costume vat
they say he aspfrcs to her hand
Sedate, but Becoming.
AS for my own gown, it was a half SIM
Evening star., 1901-05-25
Sednte, but BecOmfnr

AS for my own gown, it was half sim
pie thing. L ordered it because l saw how