The Republican journal., 1901-05-16
NEW YORK FASHIONS.


Black or White Laces, Linen Waists, Sep.
arate skirts, Pique and Duck Skirts
Cloth and Silk Esons.
Correspondence of The Journal.
Now that styles have assumed a some
what settled aspect. for the comfort Of
the economically y-inclined it may be
said that a last seasons fashionable
costume will again do duty; differences
consisting largely in the arrangement
of trimmings. Black laces were never
before so beautiful or so varied woven
in points. scallops or undulations, with
numerous Irregularities on the outer
edge, they give character to organdies,
chiffons or nets, and an exquisite soft
ness to colored foulards or taffeta silks.
THEY ARE USED TO SPECIAL AD-
VANTAGE
as insertions on black taffeta silk
dresses, about two or three in the skirt
over white lining, and the yoke above
full lower waist is usually of color,
preferably chiffon, with puffed under
sleeves to match. White lace, much on
the same order, is the favored trimming
for blue foulards, and also for colored
or grass linens, oftentimes in points or
small medallion effects. With plain
colored crepe de Chine, white silk
scarf, laced across the blouse front by
means Of four very large, embroidered
button holes, the ends finished with
gilt and tied in bow, is charming. The
undersleeves also are of white silk in
two puffs.
TUCKs CONTINUE IN FAVOR
: and are sometimes the only trimming
! on the skirt, and then again they are
used on ruff1es, particularly with grass
linen dresses, labor for which the re-
suit scarcely compensates. Crimson
mercerized lawn waists have crosswise
tucks in the sleeves, and lengthwise
tucks from shoulder to belt at the sides
and back A white rever at the front.
and, shaped sailor style at the back,
with shield, collar and undersleeves to
match, gives a pretty, dressy effect.
Fine quality insertion is preferred to
any other trimming for white waists,
some of which open in the back (in-
tended solely for young people, with in
sertion in points at the front.
FOR INDEPENDENT OR SEPARATE
SKIRTS
as they are often called, black canvas
or nuns yelling, trimmed with stitch
ed silk bands, are appropriate materials,
as they will stand hard usage, but for
dressy occasions black tatfeta silk is
the leading fabric. A handsome eX-
ample has the entire skirt laid in inch
wide plaits, falling loose about foot
from the lower edge, thus giving the
fashionable flare. At the front are
three very large, black passementerie
and lace designs, appliqued on the
plaits. Another has lace insertion in
the ruffle and whether in renovating
last seasons costume or making new
ones, matrons, maidens and dressmak.
ers are using the S. H. & NJ bias vel
veteen or corduroy skirt binding, as il
is the most durable and at the same
time elegant.
WHITE PIQUE
skirts are in special demand, the most
elaborate made in small cores with a
row of insertion between each gore,
narrow or wide, according to individual
/ taste. Dotted piqueS are also worn, and
when crimson, a sailor collar, belt and
cuffs of plain crimson pique are great
addition. Cotton duck skirts trimmed
with white braid are inexpensive and
pretty and those of grass linen are
both plain or elaborately trimmed,
sometimes with linen lace insertion, OF
gilt and colored embroidery The sole
advantage of this material is that it
does not show soil
IN THE WAY OF A SPRING COVERING
cloth or silk Etons are benediction-
so light, so dressy, and withal possess
ing considerable warmth, and close
fitting flannel waist may always be
worn under them. Gilt buttons on the
under vest or 'front.' or colored facings
on the vest in addition to the lace front,
impart that stylish, jaunty air which
should be inseparable from the true
Eton. A colored velvet facing around
the neck (mess jacket shape) with two
broad straps laid back at each side of
the front and fastened with hand
some button is in favor.
| VERONA CLARKE.