davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-09-14

A smart gown is Of mercerized sa-
teen in deep blue. rather brighter than
navy, and with a running or much
scattered pattern in white. It is sufti-
GENTLY ornate with fiat lace kept to the
edge of the skirt and with the bodice
ornamented in similar style. With this
frock a narrow vest in white or pale
color is becoming, as it breaks wide
figure. The edge Of the sateen could be
scalloped and laid over the shoulders.
When the bust is very fun, a deep
round or square collar which meets in
front is most becoming. Sateens and
lawns made with unlined sleeves and
the neck of the lining cut down little
make the coolest of summer gowns.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-09-14

many fat crowned ones Of a mushroom
type are predicted to be in the lead for
autumn and winter wear. Flat crown
ed headgear win be simply trimmed
and therefore trying to most faces
while the Gainsboroughs VIII be more
generally becoming.
The autumn tourists frock, as repre-
sented at one of the great dressmakers'
was of homespun. The model frock was
of mixed gray cloth The decorations
consisted of inch wide straps of plain
gray cloth bordered with double rows
of silk stitching, held down at the ends
by chased silver buttons. Three bands
of the cloth trimmed the skirt and
three rows appeared on the lower part
of the closed bolero. Stimulating a CIR
die.
Another travelling frock, more simple
and equally elegant, was Of brown The
skirt, made up with gored breadths.
was finished with an empieeement Of
three fitted bands. The blouse bolero
was adorned with plain bands of cloth,
a piece of brown wooden being fitted
into the front of the little jacket, which,
by the way. came well below the waist
and took the place of a waistcoat. But
tons ornamented the front of the vest
arrangement, which was daintily lined
with light silk.
CATHERINE TALBOT.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-09-14

may be reckoned at about 10 ounces.
OF buildings and pastries about IS
ounces a week are enough. Cakes and
buns may be counted at ten ounces and
fresh fruit at another ten ounces This
will suffice for desserts. Ten ounces of
preserved fruits and spreads for the
bread complete the-list.
This gives an idea of the require
ments of the child's body between the
ages of and IA. The proportions
should be slightly under the given fg-
ures for the younger children and a
little over them for the older ones. The
estimate is for the mean age. Simple
foods are preferred.
Eggs. dried fish, ported meats and
fish, cake, jam, marmaIades honey.
radishes and lettuce are excellent lunch
foods. Fresh fruit is good but a little
stewed fruit should never be omitted.
A fiat stone bottle, if filed in the morn
ing with boiling soup and slipped into a
neat case in whose construction several
thicknesses of cloth have been used.
VIII keep warm an astonishingIy long
time The case should be packed in the
snuggest corner of the lunch box or
basket and even if it is impossible to
add to its warmth by means of the
school radiator in winter at noon it
will be found not unpalatably cold.
A tin lunch box is best for if keens
or pastebOard box. Never send a chiId's
lunch in any empty shoe box; the food
will taste extensively of leather. the
odor of which clings to the pasteboard
so long as a bit of it is in existence.
When the teacher lunches at school.
she has an excellent chance to teach
the children good manners as well as
promote good fellowship between her
self and them by inviting them to lunch
with her at a long table made as neat
and attractive as circumstances will
permit. She should tactfully direct the
child's attention to 1apses of good man.
ners, suggesting impersonally an i'm
provement when the other children
have forgotten the little ones lapse.
Children are very sensitive to personal
criticism. and parents themselves might
resent reflections on their offsprings
lack of refinement
The experiment of providing a nour-
ishing, warm luncheon for public school
children has been tried with success in
some towns. 1t would be a blessing if it
could be adopted everywhere. for many
poor children work at a disadvantage,
owing to imperfectIy satisfied appetites
and lack of nutritious food. If all the
children lunched at school, the recess
might be proftably applied to learning
improving games or exercising in the
gymnasium. Children require to be
taught how to play quite as much as
they need to be shown how to work.
EDITH AWRENCE.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-09-14

ARTS. Aug. 81 = Frenchwomeh
are this season painfully re
- GREETING their thin gowns NO
summer past has seen fashiol-
able ladies' SO diaphanously
clad There is a tendency on
the part of some people to consider the
recent insect visitation the comment
of Providence upon the present Eveilke
earb. 1T is. believed that during the eN-
position some botanist who contributed
10 the show handsome aquatic plants
also donated embryo mosquitoes Al
any rate all Paris is now a-buzz' ana
terrified inhabitants who can aTIofd lt
are fleeing far from the plague infested
town. Partisan scientists hope to cope
with the pest in time. but meanwhile
Frenehwonen are seeking clothing OF a
penitential thickness even for warm
DAYS and venturing near the region OF
the Seine is infrequent a. possible.
Therefore if 1 depended On Paris
functions for fashion suggestions my
brain would be a vacuum Fortunately
1 always have the shops to fall back
upon. and I am happy to say that yes
terday's tour Of the Rue de Ia Paix and
the Avenue de rOpera was fortunate
one
At the first maison they brought out
a fascinating frock which they were
preparing to send to TrouVille to a
handsome widow who is spending the
summer at her seaside villa. She IS
rich and gay, and the gradual emer-
rence of the social butterfly from the
chrysaIs of mourning is suggested by
her gown. This garment, which was
for O. srand fete. was of black silk mus
lin and lace over gray taffeta founda-
f-1rr fol AZ
made with vertical bands of tucked
muslin separated by stripes of chan
tflly. A founce of lace about y inches
deep fell over the lower part of the
skirt The bolero harmonized in con-
struction with the skirt except that
about the lower part it was trimmed
with cream guipure. and the edges OF
the front were ornamented with velvet
ribbon comets. Some of the velvet also
trimmed the skirt, the comets being
just above the nounce. III you do not
know what dressmaker's comet is,
let me remark that it consists of a very
chic little cluster of ribbon. half rosette,
half bow. A blouse of embroidered
cream tuile was to be worn underneath
the little coat. and this was held in a
the waist with an extremely light Cir
dle built OF rows of narrow black velvet
ribbon. united by tiny jeweled clasps
The sleeves of the bolero. bOuffant be
low he elbows. We're composed of tuck
ed muslin and lace. This was supple
mented upon the forearm by a full
white undersleeve Of embroidered tulle.
"a Bow and collar Of black tulle We're
intended for the neck
Another frock Intended for this lady
showed her to he q person of extremely
s1od figure, Otherwise she would not
have dared wear the garment. Cut in
princess style. it Was Of black chantilly.
falling i'm long. carefully fitted lines
from just below the arms to the floor
Underneath the lace was fitted foun-
dalton of white tafzeta- Arms and
shoulders we're covered with venetian
guinura. the chantlly Of the robe being
rounded out to show the guipure to the
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-09-14
MILLINERY STILES.

The new millinery is literally dec
grated with wings, entire birds and
plumage; but, as a rule, these are all
manufactured from birds killed for
food, and the graceful foreign song bird
is not molested-
At present burned straw, tuscan and
leghorn are popular, and trimmings Of
black, blue or red are admirable on the
yellowish background. The fiat hat is
now shown with a double brim and
rouleaux of tuIle chiffon or ribbon ap-
pear between the brims. with a wreath
of flowers, berries or foliage at the
edge and a fiat bow of ribbon behind
the wreath.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-09-14
YACHTING contumes.

Serge will very shortly be too warm.
and many are the thin blouses .prepar-
ed to be worn with white duck and
serge skirts. White muslin inlet with
lace or open embroidery is greatly in
favor, and when worn over a fitted slip
of white batiste it is really the coolest
of garments
A blouse and skirt Of white duck
pique or crash is also cool. as there is
only the one cotton material. which,
being firm and nontransparent, requires
no lining whatever. Big sailor collars
or heavy revers increase the warmth.
but stitchings and straps are effective
straps through which ribbon can be
run are very smart on blouse.
The bolero in unlined cotton fabric is
also tolerably cool if a sleeveless vest
of null or india muslin is worn, and
the tucked blouse of japanese washing
silk which has transparency of some
kind at the neck is cool and smart with
a blue serge skirt of light weight
A smart white serge is indispensable
to the yachtswoman- Trimmings of
white wooden braid are effective with
a little gold thread introduced. A linen
gown could have straps of linen either
to match or contrast and stitched with
silk
The boleros are quite distinct and can
be worn over various vests. A desira-
bic vest for cool days can be of white
serge with silk straps and worn over
a viyella shirt. The skirt to go with
this is in one length, and upper strap
pings are sewed on at the top edge only
to give a tunic effect. A stylish and
cool hat of white canvas with black
band and quilts is worn with this cos
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-09-14

with flowers a la Pompadour, as well as
those of silk coutil or Greek tulle, will
be worn.
Short round boleros, such as we have
been accustomed to, have been. quite re-
placed by longer coats, reaching to the
waist An applied collar over the
shoulders gives to these a very jaunty
effect. On a gown of pinkish cloth [
saw a very handsome bolero, pointed
at the waist line and trimmed with
headed bands of white lace insertion.
Three bands of the insertion on the
back Of the skirt and two just above
the short lingerie sleeves impaired a
very handsome appearance to the
frock. which was intended for a young
girl.
I understand that an effort is. afoot
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-09-14

ran a double row of the venetian gui-
pure.
The fashion leaders tell me that they
are about to introduce a revival Of
Pompadour styles Fabrics richly bro
caded or lowered with sprays of bright
colored but impossible vegetation may
be confidently looked forward TO for
evening wear this winter Light blues,
cardinal, maize, pistache rose and
light green are to be fashionable even
ing rints. Dresses viii be deliberately
made up in accordance with the cos
TUNES of the period to be copied A
great deal OF lace, handsome galloOns
and medallions viii beautify the frocks-
short sleevcd gowns for house wear
VIII be favored. and outdoor garments
VIII be made with shortened sleeves.
pieced out with fancy lingerie effects.
Skirts Will look very much like those
of the summer Tight fitting, they viii
have a pronounced flare about the low
er part This fuIlness is most marked
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-09-14

w !. =: :: ::: SIS. s" ::
instead it should be a
matter of the gravest in
terest Nine-tenths of the cases OF
breakdown from overstudy might be
avoided by supplying the children with
proper nourishment and compelling
them to take a moderate amount q
exercise.
In the great English schools, which
American educational institutions
might probably take as models IN
many matters. the question of diet IS
reduced to scientific exactitude- Eng
fish meals are not timed as they are in
this country. because of climatic diff
Ierances. In English schools a midday
dinner is served, with tea at o'clock
and a very light luncheon at p m
The main idea. however, can be very
well followed in American boarding
schools or when the child takes its
luncheon at home. When children at
tend school too far distant for them
to go to and fro at the noon hour, the
best possible adaptation of hygienic
rules to existing conditions should be
aimed at
In the first place simple and pure
girls who eat the midday meal in the
schoolroom with other unfortunates.
Every teacher knows how busy mothers
conclude that anything is good enough
for the children and pack slices of cold
meat several days after it first ap-
peared on the home table. while cake
that is so dry that it must have seen a
weeks existence is tucked away as a
matter of course in the school lunch
box or basket, the mother saying:
"Oh. we'll the children can eat if
They have such excellent appetites that
anything tastes good to them"
The result is that the 1unchers return
TO their afternoon tasks with digestive
apparatus in bad condition, their minds
sluggish, their tempers irritable ana
their attention wandering. E,verr
schoolteacher has at some time or otbe~
groaned over the fmpossibiIity of at
tanning for afternoon the ideal cond5
tons of the morning This has often
been mistakenly attributed to the fact
that when the children came 10 school
they were fresh from restful sleep ana
were tired by noon. OF course the Ions
nights repose had something to do
with the early morning condition of the
youngsters, but each had also eaten a
hearty and wholesome breakfast. which
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-09-14

taste for sweet things is a natural one,
for they require in their systems 16
ounces of sugar each week. Ten ounces
of butter and 2.6 ounces of miscellane-
Gus fats are needed by the young body
in seven days. OF the heterogeneous
foods, including milk, soup, meat, fish
and green's, the following quantities
are required for the week: Ten pints of
the first, a pint of the second, four
pounds of the third, about ten ounces
of the fourth and only two ounces of
the last. Fish may be served twice
week and soup three times a week.
Cheese three times a week at dinner is
sufficient
In regard to vegetables. potatoes are
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-09-14

made up. Beige, gold, brown, bronze
brown, blue, green and red are COM
bined in the checks, but in such an ar
tistic way and in such subdued shades
that the fabrics are not extensively
loud. Ornamental stripes applied to
the frocks further tone down all tend
encies to brilliancy. English diagonal
cloth is another material selected for
exploitation by a celebrated house. It,
too, is rough surfaced. as, in fact, all
the smart cloths of the winter are ex-
pected to be.
A preference for coppers and rich
dark tones is emphasized in the selec-
ton of the diagonals. Many of them have
been made up for early autumn gowns.
Two toned diagonals are pointed out as
especially smart. Half leather is one
of the new cloths. 1t looks something
like dyed chamois and is covered with
uneven markings. Homespuns are as
sured of a moderate following, although
they are not being pushed by the great
maisons, which prefer to look out for
novelties. Iron gray and pepper and
salt shades are still permissible, while
English checks have a following all
their own. Plain cloths viii be seen,
but the probability is that the great
majority of the new frocks will be of
the new rough novelty cloths.
Fortunately the exploitation of reds
will shortly be discontinued. Cerise,
raspberry tints, copper. etc, are not ia
booed, but glazing poppy shades are.
Gray, autumn leaf, castor brown,
bronze verdegris, hunters green and
dark green are to be the favored au-
tumn colors for street dresses. Mauve
and heliotrope will be considered outre
As the hair is to be worn low on the
neck, the millinery will have a CORE
spending tilt, and handsome combs for
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-09-14

the back of the head will be in demand.
The new art jewelry is deservedly pop
ular for these. for it is devoid of the
extravagant styles of ornamentation
that characterized so much of the old
fashioned kind.
Types of the Gainsborough hat and
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-09-14

in making gooseberry trife take one
cs1 Of eooseberries. sugar to taste,
one pint of custard. a plateful of whip
ped cream. Put the gooseberries into
lar with sufficient moist sugar TO sweet
en- them and boil until reduced TO
pulp. Put this pulp into a glass dish.
pour over a pint OF custard and when
cold cover with whipped cream The
cream should be whipped some hours
before wanted, as it viii be flrmer. Use
green gooseberriea-
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-09-14

The autumn bolero should fasten in
double breasted style or with a new
single breasted front and long tabs,
and revers turning back without leav-
ing any opening. This coat is very
smart and can easily be thrown open
for calls and matinees. Revers are still
very elaborate. and appliques of dark
silk or velvet are applied to a white or
light ground
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-09-14
A DAINTY MUSLIN
Oh LAWN GOWN.

A pretty fashion for a muslin or lawn
gown is shown in the illustration. The
skirt is unlined and made to wear over
separate slip. There is a godet
hounee of graduated depth. Groups OF
cording appear at the top and bottom
of the fiounce and midway between
waist and bolero.
The bolero of muslin is corded and
trimmed with frills of lace. The round
collar makes a pretty finish at the
neck. The sleeveless vest il Of null
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-09-14

ed; porridge, bread and butter or rolls.
eggs or meat, such as fish. chops or
meat cakes or steak Milk should be
the only drink
Good food and plenty Of it helps build
up the child's brain as well as his body.
While attention to diet will not make a
boy or girl whom nature cast in a d.
ninutive mold a giant, it viii help him
or her TO acquire every available inch
ana VIII develop a robust constitution
IT. has been computed that a healthy
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-09-14

laid in full folds, while the back IS
simply of lining to match the slip skirt
A folded belt of the same color in silk
is worn.
This makes a pretty black or gray
gown. the skirt corded as shown or
with strappings of glace silk used in
stead and with a floral guipure inser-
ton substituted for the frills on the bo-
lero. A vest of spotted foulard would
be effective with either a black or blue
gown. Tucked glace silk is always
pretty, especially if striped with inser-
ton lace
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-09-14

to make Scotch plaids popular this
winter 1t is some time since decided
plaids were in vogue, and as a great
modiste has selected rough surfaced
ones of beautifully blended shades,
it may be that they will be popular A
great deal depends on the way they are
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-09-14

The curve at the waist accomplished
by the use of this style is too graceful
to be lightly relinquished. Toile de
sole in white or in colors is q favored
covering for frameworls, as il is both
light and strong. Other corsets made
of ribbons. silk printed or embroidered
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-09-14

waist line. Lacings of black velvet
ribbon united the fronts. On the pIas-
tron appeared appliqued flowers OF taf-
feta, and down the front Of the robe
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-09-14

To polish ivory piano keys dissolve
half an ounce of best white wax in tur-
pentine over hot water until it attains
the consistency of cream. Apply
small quantity to the keys with a fan
mel and polish by rubbing well with soft
rags.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-09-14

was supplemented by exercise in the
fresh air
Children who carry their Iuncheons to
school labor under a great disadvan-
tage-they eat their heartiest meal at
night Children should dine al midday
and partake of a simple meal in the
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-09-14

day lunch of the cold sort from home
should breakfast heartily. This break
fast should include fruit. fresh or stew
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-09-14

child from to IA years of age requires
in a week about 90 ounces of starchy
food. OF this about 80 ounces are to be
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-09-14

evening The heavy evening meal is
followed by impaired digestion. with all
It's attendant evils. Little ones who are
Wakeful or are troubled with night
mare may often be relieved by regu-
lating the diet. Nearly all children
who indulge in heavy evening meals
win at some time or other be afflicted
with these misfortunes- The chief meal
of the day for young people, be it en-
phasized. should be served at noon.
Children sent to q school with a mid
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-09-14

81 ATE PARIS FASHIONS 4


beginning just below the knee line.
Long wasted low busted bodices will
accompany the skirts.
Corsets will still be straight fronted-
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-09-14
LUNCHEON OR TEA.
LUNCHEON OR TEA
Fruit.
Cold Meat with Cucumber Sauce
Waifles.
Corn Fritters.
Lettuce Salad.
Creamed Potatoes
Custards-
Tea.

CUCUMBER sAUCE-Peel a small cucumber
and stew it in half milk and half water til soft;
tba,, r,,h Il through a sieve Next mix with it
quarter Of O pint each Of mayonuaise sauce and
slightly whipped cream. one teaspoonful Of TARA
gon vinegar a dust Of caster sugar and salt and
a drop Of green vegetable coiorins- Just at tne
last Stir in two tablespoonfuls Of aspic jelly
which has been warmed just enough to melt u
put in The coolest place possible till wanted.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-09-14

CHOCOLATE MOLD-Put in n clean saucepan
one pint OF milk the thiny pared rind 81 one
lemon and two ounces Of loaf sugar Put one and
a half ounces OF grated chocolate in a BASIN Mix
with it slowly and smoothly the boiling milk See
that it is free from Jumps Then melt half an
ounce Of leaf gelatin in about half a gin Of hot
water When dissolved, strain it into the milk,
etc Flavor with either vanilla o. any other es-
sence Rinse out mold with cold water; then
nonr 81 The mixture and leave till cold and set.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-09-14

1AI ScuOol CuliuLSH SAe1li
eat is a subject which IS
given too little considera-
ton by American mothers
Instead it should be a
The Mankato free press. [volume] (Mankato, Blue Earth County, Minn.) 1879-1924, 1901-06-07
EMULATE MRS. NATION.
Kansas Indians Make kindIing
Wood of a Joint.

"OOO OF q JOiIlls
Horton, Kan, June 1.-THE Potta-
watOmie Indians on the reservation
near here learned from Mrs. Carrie
Nations experience that ''jointists" in
Kansas have no recourse when their
places are raided, because their bust
ness is illegal. Profting by this,
band of them descended upon a sa-
loon at Wayetta, trading post near
here, smashed the windows and mir
rOrs, terrOriZed the barkeeper with
hatchets, clubs and revolvers until he
fed and then disposed of all the liquor
in the place by drinking it. The
'jointist" returned, but he has not
sworn out warrant for any of the
Indians and will not. The Indians
have the advantage of him. If he
makes a move against them they will
have him arrested for violating the
prohibitory law by selling liquor to
Indians. They can get enough testi-
mony against him to send him up for
life. He is at their mercy completely.
The Pottawatomies are so delighted
over their Wayette experience that
they threaten it on the "joints" of all
other little towns around the reserva-
ton