New-York tribune., 1901-05-19
A NIGHT AT THE KADO VA.
GUESTS WHO ARE SUSCEPTIBLE ro
COLD MIGHT NOT LIKE IT

tEa xrrTs
forget the flowers In the jnrfksba Won 49, -
biting W1nd IN the cars the stHl cold. a. 60
pose you 60 as We did. in February. "a Nsrs
where there are only native hostlerfes The tratn
takes you there from Osaka or Kio+o. 49,. G.. 81
rust carry bundle OF rugs and Kari, o.,.
japanese baskets filled with pillows ana go.
and provender. hear japanese entbre,os+ go
confess to being neophyte. have passad rn
degrees IN the cult With the chop sticks Ard
pleasure IN dabbhng only, and I regard q T.,a...e
meal I used 10 a dolls tea mart, a. -.
there is more mystery Cto mel about II
We travelled from Kobe TO Osaka ,rbe-. ma
charged cars for Nara, each trip taking a little
over an hour- MY companion had lived in Japan
for Twelve years will call her Miss Smith be-
cause that Is so different from her real name II
wish 10 be exceedingly polite NAV SAG q sn,tb
San MISS smith spoke japanese huentlv so
gladly sank all sense OF responsibility and let the
worla roL oy' scarcely knowing where we were A
japanese landscape has its beauties even IN wiz
ter and under gray skies and ,b,ra v,e-a +b,r
Of absorbing interest 70 see inside of the crowded
railway carnage rug was tucked over our lans
and we each nursed a ''kairo''-a small tin hoy CON,
tanning stick OF burning cba-coal-in our hands
or tentatively held il to our noses Miss Smith
derived grateful heat from placing it under the
arm.
WELCOME TO THE HOTEL.
il was dusk when We reached Nara. and very
cold our men at last lowered the shafts OF our
gurlksha before Tow japanese building-the Kado
va Hotel mere was not front door n IS ho-aI
N the Western scceptation of the term Mine bos-
greeted Us. pushing aside a panel ohsA-,,,to,,s 80
boVing. and a stream OF light was emitted from
the within. where three or four men were
sitting the floor about bronze 'hIbachf' Cbra-
zier) Mine hostess and little "amah" also an
peared and made deep obeisance as we alighted
We might look inside. Dut We could not enter
III We had removed our shoes. This is a supreme
condition. I ask any one. is II pleasant 10 sit
down in winter on the front steps OF a hotel 10
assembsge Of ''riksha'' men. landlord. guests and
reiainers all equally interested IN the cut OF your
hose Miss Smith used 10 the customs of The
country. and went through the performance with
coolness, having previously explained that 10
enter & japanese house shod equivalent TO
walking in this way over our own beds and chairs
and dining tables. for the the floor
served the japanese for all three. She had brought
G pair Of bed shoes. which she slipped on. but I had
forgotten mine and forlornly cLrled my cold feet
under my dress. when our landlady came the
rescue and produced a pair Of white canvas bags,
made 10 slip the boots Of foreign men who
came 10 the hotel They were designed on gen
erous scale.
ITS PECULIAR ARCHITECTURE
Our room was AT the. back Of the house, up
tiny fight OF stairs and the arnah" began closing
81 Up she ushered IN. II would be difficult 10
describe the architecture Of that house. On two
sides Of S a narrow corridor, open 10 the air
in the daytime; night panels were drawn out
70 inclOse Il. The screens opening this were OF
paper oblongs, pasted on light wooden frames (you
could knock them in by blow OF your fist. except
for 2 single row OF glass panes. through which
could be obtained excellent view OF the interior
OF the apartment. Both these walls slid open.
The third side was composed Of screens, which
separated this room from the next. and the
fourth was built a low polished platform. This was
the place of honor. There real plaster behind
f. II only reached from the corner half way
AT the eft another paper window. and
the little dss large jar held branches Of pine and
plum blossoms A low carved table stood there,
TOO. Soft straw mats covered the floor, shiny and
spotless. fitting closely together At first
shivering the floor while little "amah."
Kani San. dragged the bronze ''hibachi'' into the
centre Of the room and retired for fuel. The
forts which enjoy IN this hotel were
brought 10 US piecerneal There was proper
sequence and a great deal Of method, also much
waiting But patience is for the Orient. Do not
attempt 10 live there without #
Minutes elapsed ere o Kimi San re-entered with
q tiny pail Of charcoal sticks. few OF which she
daintily piled the sifted ashes OF the brazier.
Then she left more and returned-after
suitable interval-with a holder containing live
Goals in one hand and tray with tiny teapot and
CUPS IN the other She transferred the Goals TO the
'hbachf' and set the tray on the floor and with
drew once more. this time for a brass kettle. We
seized the opportunity TO surrepttiously transfer
more charcoal 10 feed the feeble flames. Every
tine that Kimi San entered went out OF the
room she left the screen open less, and
BIT Of heat driven away by the cold draughts
You cannot hope 10 much more than your
finger tips at a 'hibachi," yet II is all that the
Japanese use 10 resist the penetrating cold. Their
lightly built houses are half paper. and they make
no attempt 10 keep them closed You wonder that
the whole nation is not consumptive or crippled
and bent with rheumatism.
HUAroR OF THE LANDLORD.
seems that three years prior TO the date OF our
Miss Smith had been one Of good sized party
who went from Kobe TO spend few days al Nara
They put I'D at the Kado Va Now, the paternal
Japapese Government requires that every guest
going 10 2 hotel shall register not only his name
but his residence and home his nationality MS
profession his age and his social posiuon- Inc
party had been very jovial and MISS Srlith had
entered her age sixteen No comment was
made upon IT. nothing said 10 indicate that
the statement had been much as noted, but when
al the end OF their stay they were IN the Jinrlk-
shas and started for the station Miss Smith hap
pened 10 be last.
"sayonara 5u roku SAM" called out our sly land
lord she disappeared down the street 1HiS
means: "Goodby. Miss Sixteen!
Therefore after mine host had properly expressed
and siguiaed the honor done his modest o"eIliHs
BY our honorable presence, ana mao inquired - "~
every want had been properly hled' ne relapse"
into the habitual jovialty most polite ana oecoin-
ing IN the keepers Of inns in all countries ana re-
called the incident. pausng 10 laugh ana SUCK 1he
air through his teeth.
Now he said counting his spare hhsers,
you are seventeen eighteen. nineteen-jiu ku san!
tMiss NineteenD
Kirni San had waited TO hear all that mine
host had 10 say before she departed Tor our supper
and then We unpacked the cold chicken Ehure'y
aside from the taste or the quahty OF the IoOo' ~
japanese serve II more daintily than do any other
people IN the world even in a country hotel y
Kmi San first pushed in a black lacquer DoN' al
most large enough for hat box. This coh'aiheo
NE rice, which is ladled out with lacquer s~POI ~