Rogue River courier. (Grants Pass, Or.) 1886-1927, 1901-06-20
NEW ART JEWELRY.
Curious and Very Costly Pieces
Made by Master Workmen.
Revival OF Wonderful Metal Work OF
Renaissance Times Popularired
by the Paris Exposition
Features Of work.

a new fad in jewelry has slowly
been making its way to favor in recent
years. and the Paris exposition
brought it into something like popu-
la-ity Fortunately, the expense OF
the work and the fact that il appeals
E.. Die artistic taste more than to the
caa.aa uf elegance generally current
promises 10 keep the fashion from be-
cam-re fatally common, says the New
lu!A sun.
The salique jewelry is perhaps the
finest example of this new work,
which g.. after all, old, for il works
back to thc wonderful metal work of
renaissance times and makes the pre-
cipl, metals merely incidental. The
e.hibition of Rene Salique's work at
the exposition was revelation to the
host who had known nothing about
him.
This work has been eagerly sought
for in Europe for years past, but his
prices are fabulous and he does not
sell TO dealers. but works only on spe-
cial orders. which it may be his whm
10 accept: so, up to the present time,
his Jewels have been obtained only by
royal personages or other illustrious
patrons, and their number is not very
great.
Castellani, in Rome, has had repu-
tation for work Of the same general
order As Salique's, although he has
achieved nothing TO equal the Salique
Jewels, and a crowd of lesser lights
have been following the same path
with more or less success.
Of course, the central idea of this
jewelry is beauty and eXclusiyeness Of
design. The masters Of ,e craft, ike
SaIique. often make the jewel, what
ever it may be. with direct reference
to the appearance and personality of
the woman who is to wear it, and this
opens up an endless vista of suggestive
and symbolic possibility.
Then again the jewel may be made
merely to carry outs conception in the
mind OF the artist. without ref
crence TO The future owner. Rare
stones are introduced wherever the
design requires their color, but very
often the semi-prpcious stones an
swer the artistic requirements better
than the more costly jewels and are
used by preference, without thought
Of the comparative cost.
II a patron is willing to put crowns
ransom Of rubies into an order and
Salique thinks pink topaz or lapis
azul accords better with his design,
the buyer doesn't get the rubies.
Moonstones are particular fayorites
with Salique and with many Of his
followers, because they lend them
selves TO symbolism and suggestion
without detracting from the effect Of
the metal work and design. One of
the most remarkable pieces of this
art iewelr7 ever turned out was
comb in a design Of bats flying through
the filtered light of moonstones.
American designers are taking up
rhe art jewel idea, and a new era of
FNiI iNhA AilNN III IiNtAl y - tNllfhAiN
at hand. Gorgeous tiaras and stom-
aohors OF diamonds will not do now.
My lady must have specially designed
and eccentric iewelry Of which there
is mo- duplicate. which bears the sig
nature oi o master craftsman.
Several Of the New York jewellers
brought home quantities OF signed
Jewels i'm unusual designs, and have
sold them rapidly. One ring for "A
man, labeled The Heart OF the Oak"
and signed 10y a famous French work
man, was a particularly good speci-
men. although it hadn't a hint Of
Vrgcious stone about IT, The ring was
wrought in scmblaucc of bark. and
hora u strange, satyrlikc head, that
"a first glance looked merely like the
rnarlol knot ON limb Of tree.
One Chicago woman has taken up
This arr jewel craft with immense sue
cess, and has orders so far ia advance
thot She says it will be impossible for
her 90 promise anything before 1903,