The age-herald., 1901-10-13
BY EDGAR MAoNEss.

way out from Naples in the grounds of his villa there.
 Table dhote dinners never vary over here so we knew that in Brindisi the pease or string beans would come in as one course and the chicken and salad just after on the same kind of polished plates as we were served upon in Rome. and so 1t was. First class hotels have therefore no interest, and onc is never allowed to practice his Italian or speak his rustic French in the ears of these polyglotic walters. When could slip off from our crowd. as I did one lovely day spent on the Island of Ischia, and order a simple meal in Italian at a little trattoria, I always enjoyed it more than sitting down to our dinners of state at the plg hotels One thing we get here, and which would be an addition to way side American dinners. that is the stroll ing musician, who with accompanist or two makes the waits between the courses pass very agreeably.
 After such a concert at our hotel we went on board the Daphne of the Aus trian-Lloyd service and left about 12 o'clock for Carfn. It takes some twelve hours to make this trip and when we walked and came out on deck we found lovely day and everywhere exquisite colors on sea and land for we were al- ready slkirtinR the coasts of Albaria. For clear days Greece has probably greater proportion than any otI.er country, as there are-on an ayeragei270 bright ones in a year.. iasrfectly cloudy weather is rare and oniy iour.sor Ave of such days occur in year. Unl1ae the coast of Cali fornia there is little Bog and mist, but greatly resembling this section Is the great difference in temperature between the sun and shade and night and noon. The first stop was made at the small is- land of Santi Quaranti, which has ruined castle on the crest of bare hill and few white houses on the quay.
 The Island of Carfu, next reached. has a population of 114.500, and the people live largely from the proceeds of fruits and olive oil exports and on the tourists. The pretty town has an old church-the St. Sporodion-situated in Nikephoras street, an esplauade Ga Spianata), the Royal Palace (the summer palace of Queen Olga of Greece), circular temple to Sir Thom- as Maitland. the Fartezza Vecchia, old fortifications now used as a barracks and military prison, and the Fortezza Nuova, a prison on the opposite side Of the island. These fortresses crowning two hills on opposite sides of the town, present most imposing appearance from the sea. A broad street descends from the town to the Stada Marina, where the carfiotes promenade in the evening. The principal street of Palaeopolis is bordered by rose and orange gardens and it extends for two miles from the Esplanade to circu- lar space called the canone. Near here Is the old Hyllaean harbor and opposite. to its entrance is the island of Pontikonisi on which is a small chapel. This island is traditionally the Phaeacian ship which brought Ulysses to Ithaca. and which Poseidon in anger turned into stone. Near also is the lake of Kalikiapoulo, on the southwest bank of which, where a brook named Kressida enters the lake Is the place where Ulysses was cast ashore and met the princess Nausicaa.
 In two or three hours after leaving Carfu the islands of Paxas and Antipaxas are reached and just beyond these we