Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1901-12-05
PORTALS new YORK LETTER.

asked the Cynio, as he glanced over the
menu.
looked IN. 1t was such an unusua'
question. Did We. the Oynio and I,
ever dine without oysters, save in
those months when epicures forbade
themY
The oyster is at his best now. From
the oyster, when NJ is understood
Alright. springs perpetual Joy and
are apt TO trutalize il. To drown it in
vinegar is the height of their am.
bitiou; an imperial pint was the
quantity needed by MIR. Weller's friend
to destroy the delicaoy OF its flavor,
the salt sweetness of its aroma. The
Greeks knew better; according to
Atheneus. boiled asd fried they
served their oyster. finding them, how
ever, best OF ali When roasted in tina
coa,s till the shells opened. As early
as the seventeenth century, the French
prepared them IN iricassee, included
them in Their Deiiess de In campaque,
The American today exbAusts his
genius fo- invention in oevising rare
and GINNING methods by which to OK
tract their strength and savor.
Its merit when law, no man Of sensi.
bility and wisdom Will deny. Base.
minded, indeed, must he he who thinks
to enhance its value by converting it
into defence against influenza or any
other human III. The nncients held il
indigestible unless cooked; but to talk
OF 1t as IL it Rere drug for our heal
ing. u 10 son iof our d scomforring. 10
to dishonor, without rhyme or reason,
the mob est OF all shell-fisn. Who would
not risk an Indigestion, or worse, for
fho MI 10. t. LII.
power to give Was there one among
the wedding guests at tbs MARI age
of IIebe.' who Tea ell the COURSE o.
"oysters with closed shells, which are
very difficult 10 open but ve sasy to
eat.'
Once your oysters are on the half
shell, let not the vinegar bottle tempt
you; as far AZ it is concerned, be not
only temperate, but q total ab>tainer.
a spcinkling of salt, a touch OF cayenne,
a dash OF lemon juice, and then eat,
and know how good it is for man 10 live
10 world Of oystel g. For a light lunch
or the perfect midnight supper, for an
inspiring no d oeuvre, without rival is
this king OF shell-fish II for the mid
night meal ynu reserve 1t, you MAJ he
kindled into ecstasy by the simple addi-
tion OF glass OF fine cd Chablis or
6auterne -be not led nstray by vulgar
praise OF stout or porter-and brown
bread and butter cut in slices of ethereal
thinness Linger over this banquet,
exquisite in It's simplicity, long and
lovingly. that later you may sleep nth
easy conscience and mind at rest.
With raw oysters. alone 1t were folly
foreman content n you would epresd
more sumptuous feast, fly the largest,
nil N m nj in 81
gates Of earthly paradise will Ie thrown
wide open in the frying. No more ia
miliar cry is there IN American res-
taurants than that for IAN oyster fry!''
Dark little cellars, rushed by precipit-
Gus steps. there are, and friendly seedy
little oyster shops in back streets, where
the frying Of oysters has been exalted
into holy cult. And il you W. II, in
paper boxes, the long beautiful, golden
brown masterpieces you may carry away
with you, to eat with gaye- garnishing
and in more sympathetic surroundings.
and in winter, scarce beer saloon but,
at luncheon time, will set upon ne
counte- ms tealning dish of fined oyste &:
and with every glass OF no matter what,
crackers" at discretion and one fried
oyster on long generous fork will hs
handed by the white .robed guardian.
But mind you take hut one; else comes
the ohucker out, Thus only the re
thirsty, in the course of N morni ing, may
gain free lunch.
Itrequires no great elaboration, though
much rare skill in the cooking. For
this purpose the largest oysters must be
selected; the latest and most juicy n
the hall. shell they may be friou, after
Seventeenth Century fashion, a touch OF
butter and pepper on each, We 'iuice or
vinegar, and grated nutmeg added once
they are served. Or else, taken from
the shell. they may be dipped into a
marvellous preparation of vinegar. nnrs.
ley, laurel leaves, onion, chiyes, cloves,
basil, and in rhe result tie mighty
imagination of the great Alexander
would rejoice Or, again, in simpler
American fashion, enve oped in un-
pretentiou5 batter Of eggs and Tread
crumbs, fry them until they turn TO an
unriyalled, Understandable golden. nrown,
and in the eating thereof the gods
might envy you.
II a new Hensation you court. grill or
broil your oyster, and you win have
cause to exult IN loud triumphant
magnificat. No bread crumbs are needed,
neither laurel nor sweet spice. With
but hit OF hutter for encouragement,
it will brown gently In the grilling,
and becOme delicious morse to be
eaten with reverence and remembered
with tenderness,
Or, stew them ard be happy. But oil
rich milk, and cream, and sweet fresh
butter, an Dumas would put 1t, must
your stew be made; thickened, but
scarce perceptibly, with Hour, while
bits of mace float in golden Sympathy
on the liau DIS surfaces. 1t il the dish
for luncheon, or for the pleasant, cd
fashioned high tea'-no such abnmi-
nation as "meat tea known then, IL
you please of pleasant, old. fashioned
citizens And worse accompaniment
you might have than wRtIies light as a
feather, or beaten biscuits, the pride of
Maryland'a black cooks. American men
and women, when in cruel exile, will
be moved to sad tears at the very men
tion OF "oyster stews."
Exquisite pleasure turks iu scalloped
oysters, au trait n, which ever you may
choose TO call this welcome variation Of
the oyster motive. Layers of iudiciously
seasoned bread crumbs alternate with
layers of the responsive she'll fish, and
the carefully studied Arrangement is
then Drowned until it enchants by color
no less than by fragrance. And, IL you
would seek further 10 please the eve,
let the dish TO hold 80 fine work of art
be a shell with suggestion OF the sea
IN Its graceful curves and tender tints,
Or, If imagination would be more dar. Y
ing, let The same shell hold huitres
farcies, ounningly oontrived cells and
oysters and pareley and m uahrnntns and