The sun., 1901-08-11
rHE TASK OF GOWNING BEAUTY
TYPES or PHYSICAL CHARMS
HARD TO MANAGE.

snowy women and Their Costumes An
Artists struggics 10 Subdue Certain
Kinds es Feminine beauty Compens..
ti0ns for Les Gifted Women I'm Clothes.
Tho woman that dread most 10 design
gowns for said an artist who compo,es
costumes for New York women, is .bs
one who looks as though she was built for
the centre Of the stage. refer TO the showv.
looking. large. often opulently charm.
ing woman with pronounced individuality.
There are any number Of such types in
fashionable society here and abroad, as we'll
as on the stage.
Owing to their vivid coloring, exuberance
Of temperament, abundant vitality and
over enthusiasm this feminine type can
only be classed as the physically showy.
1t is found in the very highest and tho
lowest walks Of life. II is not the typical.
aristocratic type, yet queens possess 10
when they are most queenly. and dairy
maids are also endowed with the penti,uds
Of vital charm which expresses itself 50
aggressively. To gown such woman
smartly Is an undertaking. Rarely can she
| be trusted TO choose her own frocks or hsrs
| Her temperament ia too exuberaut"
The artist has her studio of Fifth avenue.
| Unlike other studios where real work Il
| accomplished II Is luxuriously furnished
| and hung with pictures Of beautiful women
| In beautiful gowns. There are pho,o-
| graphs and water colors showing drerens
| types OF women. All are HANDSOMELY
| gowned according to the mode, yet with
nothing suggesting fashion plate in their
outlines.
-Showy women are not necessarily largo,
although they incline to height and plump.
nees,' the artist continued They are
rarely thin. A very thin woman. u even
such a pronounced type as Yvette Gull
bert, cannot be classed thus, for despite
Nine. Guilbert's wonderful red hair her
akin Ia white and opaque. She IL poster.
esque In an mpressionistc way, but she
IL not vivid with warm tints Of flesh.
Women Of the pronounced type 10 which
I refer require far more careful study from
tailor, milliner and modiste and much
more adept maid than the woman of less
| aggressive beauty. Blondes are more apt
| to be Of this vivid type than brunettes,
| that Is TO say. there are more OF them, but
| the brunette type is by far the more striking.
Some large, red-haired women are almost
spectacular. physically Women with fresh
| cOmplexions and snow-white hair will
also command attention, and this nova
days Is the very last result that woman Of
| taste aspires TO.
when the snowy woman is not beautiful,
which is often the case, she il confronted
with a still more serious problem Many
| OF these women make themselves posi-
| lively dowdy In their attempts 70 subdus
| their natural tendencies toward what 10
known on the stage as a good presence.
'One OF my clients, who is known as o
! great beauty never purchases or leaves an
order unless accompany her OF write out
ideas, that are really restrictions. rs to her
orders. When she came to me she was IN
distress. She had wardrobes full OF cos
tunes, all much too gorgeous for her natur-
ally resplendent type Of form and color. She
was and is, Brunnhilde, modern goddess.
but now she Is well-dressed goddess.
suggesting In her gowns sn exquisitely fine
taste In dress. This she does not possess
naturally. Although educated 10 degree.
she has some strain OF the savage In her
which calls for glitter and color and even
sound. She told me once she only liked
her rope Of pearls for the musical way
In which they clashed whe n she walked
| 1Thin, pale women with colorless. dead.
| looking hair are often envious Of thcss
strong and physically handsome women;
but the slender, paler woman can dress with
out one-Quarter the thought that the goddess
woman must give to every detail OF cos
| tune and Of toilet. II II were the fashion
| 10 wear draperies instead Of gowns the
| goddess would have the advantage, but
| she has TO be careful when II comes TO pict-
| ing out her frocks to secure neutral tintings,
severe lines and quiet styles in all the small
| belongings as we'll as themore important
items of her Quitting,
-She must affect simple hairdressing
and absolutely no fluffy effects. The SNOWY
woman who attempts TO be fluffy, and many
such women do so ignorantly, produces an
unpleasant effect, suggestive OF the circus
ring, while her thinner sister may revel
In chiffon ruches. rosettes. flowers gar
| lands and sash ends innumerabe.
-Who has not observed with sorrow tho
| large woman who persists In wearing FRENCH
| heels In the streetsl In reality she should
never wear them, for II she be tall, and she
usually II, che should sedulously avoid
everything that may add to her height.
| At the opera or In evening dress she may
| dare an aigrette. for these opulently ems
dowed women seem to fit into respendene
backgrounds. :
Il always advise against the Louis heels
| in every case. For street wear consldef
them freakish and in wretched taste, buo
there are some little women who value
the additional inches they give to the stature
to I the French heel. They refuse to wear
any other because the fat heel makes the
| foot look larger.
.Gowns on tailor lines are the only SORT
| that large women should wear in the street,
| The thin waists showing the shoulders
through and the ribbon-run underwaist
are not in strictly good taste for any wo-
| mans street wear, but in the torrid days
| OF summer In town IL is difficult TO condemn
| them. But the large woman, the snowy
woman, must not, cannot, wear them OUT
side the limits OF her home.
| Il have seen woman on hot dav ~
summer enter fashionable Fifth avenus
| restaurant for luncheon wearing white
| cloth gown, a white felt sombrero and
| red golf coat. She was not especially
| young. nor very pretty, but she was sum,
pale and bloodless and had mouse-coorHd
| hair and eyes. Her coloring made 1t pos
sible for her to carry of these striking gar.
ments with distinction. A woman vivid ~
complexion and large build with striking
| tinting Of eyes and hair would have sug-
| gested comic opera poster In such RIG.
| Hats are always difficult for the woman
| with height, weight and color She must
| be cautious in this matter to the point o!
| cowardice. Few flares and few feathers
| and flowers except, when the last are closely y
massed with much foliage and always
tending 10 dark tints. No fluttering chiffon
| strings or perky pompoms. No wells with
| dots like ebony dimes for the modern Brunn-
| hide She must be faulty rigged as a
| yacht, ready TO take every breeze without q
loose end futtering
-One obstacle that | have to contend
with in designing for the snowy woman
feminine type Is luxurious. splendor-
loving creature. with tastes for Oriental
plenttude in costuming to an extent that
-