Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1901-03-14
WHEN AND HOW TO PRuNE.
In Winter For Wood Growth, In
NJ. E.~-s< nuo~-o+so,

In Winter For Wood Growth, In
Summer For Fruit Production.
There are many orchards well cared
for in every way except in the matter
Of pruning, and this is often sadly
neglected or improperly done, some
claiming that it is working against ma
ture to prune. If we neglect it, ma
ture makes an effort to do it for us in
her only way-by causing the surplus
wood to die for want Of air and sun
light. This is an Objectionable way Of
pruning, as it leaves only dead scars
on our trees for life. The true prin-
ciple of pruning is to begin with the
young maiden tree and give it light
annual pruning when it can all be done
with the pruning shears. If this is
then neglected and a tree allowed to
grow as it will, we will have hard
work to get it in proper shape and will
injure the tree more or less by cutting
away large branches. Trees will form
a very nice looking head when young
with but little pruning, but before we
are aware of it we have tree so dense
that the inside wood begins to die, and
it is impossible for the fruit to come
to perfection.
This matter Of pruning is neglected
and improperly done more than any
thing else pertaining to fruit culture.
Every kind of fruit and in fact nearly
every variety of the same kind needs
a different method of pruning. A
Clapp's Favorite pear might do fairly
well with an occasional heading in, as
it makes but little surplus wood, but
the same treatment applied to many
other varieties that make a surplus of
wood, such as the Lawrence and many
others, would give us a perfect brush
heap.
The time of pruning is not SO impor-
tant as the method. 1t has been said,
'Prune whenever your tools are sharp"
but would not advise severe pruning
when the trees are growing or are in
full foliage, as cutting off much foliage
has tendency to weaken the tree
somewhat. Where the work can be
done in short time March and April
are preferable, but where there is much
to be done any time from the falling of
the leaf until it starts again in spring.
1 do not advise cutting off large
branches in the fall and winter, but
where it is absolutely necessary to cut
such they should be cut several inches
from the trunk or large branch and
then cut closely any time during June,
may be cut close and the wound cover
ed with a thick paint. This will in a
measure prevent decay. All branches
over an inch in diameter should be so
treated, or the wounds will decay more
or less. This is especially true on old
trees where there is not so much vigor
as in younger trees.
There is no danger of injury from
pruning when the wood is frozen.
Whenever the workman can endure the
cold the tree can. | have practiced
pruning in every month of winter and
have never seen any injurious effect
from it when the wood was frozen.
Pruning when the tree is dormant in
duces wood growth. Summer pruning
induces fruit production and is not
generally to be recommended. In some
cases where trees are large and old
enough to fruit, but do not from ex-
cessive wood growth, judicious sum-
mer pruning might be advisable, but
must be done with caution.-Charles
Black of New Jersey Horticultural So
ciety.