Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1901-11-07
PORTALS NEW YORK LETTER.

Special Correspondence OF Gazette and Journal.
New York, Oct 81. = Dame Fashion
is coming to town very fast. Every
day one sees new faces and new gowns.
At luncheon hour in the fashionable
hotels 1t is quite gay. Lady Modiete
has some stunning new ideas and the
woman who can wear any color has
bewildering lot OF schemes to select
from. But what Of the woman who is
wearing mourning either air black or
black and whitley She does not want
to look nunlike and old-fashioned and
yet she must bow to her feelings and
public sentiment and dress unostenta-
tioualy.
had the good fortune : to 90 to the
atelier of one OF the leading gown
makers in New York this weeh and saw
some new and attractive models for
women. New weayes In creme de chine
and chiffon are now especially good for
mourning usee. They are made up as
much as possible without solid founda.
tlons, light tatfetas in dull black being
first choice. One OF the most beautiful
OF these light fabrics Is fieur de suede,
soft and plable, but with great ten.
acity Of fibre. 1t has all the grace Of
chiffon and crepe, with tie added
tirmness of light suede kid.
Black cloth skirts worn With black
and white striped silk blouses, with
buckled yoke and collar and belt laid
over white, luok particularly neat In
half" mourning.
A complete mourning outfit is fur
nished by this artist 10 l2 hours, the
outfit including hats and hornets,
gowns, coats, capes, jackets. redingotes,
ueckwear, underakirts, NC. The first
necessity, the black skirt and coat is
made ready in three sizes. Very
elegantly made Hkirts have added to
them a number Of yards OF matching
goods. which are made up, on few
hours notice, into bodice or Jacket
with which TO complete the costume.
These skirts are designed for every
degree OF mourning and include plated
carlton and crepon, black embroidered
crepe de Chine dull jetted net over
lustreless silk, tucked Henrietta cloth,
black camel's hair and black panne,
drap d'ete and dfap d'A lima, with dull
jet trimmings; black Chantilly lace,
over white chiffon. with white chan
THY aFpliques, outlined with a tiny
line of chenille.
some very smart arrangements in
neck wear are shown Ia the lest shops
now for mourning. The stocks are very
nigh, built up with soft folds OF crepe
or chiffon. and trimmed with ruoheI of
crepe across the ends. Some dull finish
SILK IS used, too, 10 their make up.
There are many new styles OF neck
wear intended solely for mourning,
which are unusua y attractive. Nous.
seine de sole ana chiffon are the
favorlte materials and far more be-
coming than thv dull silk ties or the
peau de sole. a smart stock is finished
with a narrow rnohing of chiffon. and
the lie, a butterfly how, has the ends
trimmed with the same rucbiua,
Another aud longer tie ia of folos OF
chiffon with only the narrowest rucbjpp
as a finish. Sheer white linen collars
and cuffs are worn in the deepest
while the narrow collar and
cuffs Of hemstitched linen are appro-
Pirate for ans ona to wear who wears |
mourning. whether for near or distant |
1862
Stunning effects are gained in some |
OF the black and white combinations |
for half mourning For instance, tea |
gown OF black and white brocaded |
tatfeta hss lattioes of black velvet over |
plain white, and sleeves, ruffles and |
scarf of chiffon. This Ia rather new
fad, as already stated, this use Of
velvet for half mourning and good
one, as it gives much nore ATTITUDE in
the decoration OF black and white gowns
Peau de sole and armure silk are
much used in white and black for
half mourning, ana In black for even
rather deep mourning, with crepe trim
mings. as they are so dull IN finish,
The simple hemstitched white lawn
Dollars and cuffs, which formerly were
worn only by widows, are very much
used for mourning by everyone.
HINTS ON MOURNING FASHIONS.
Chiffon is not worn by those in az.
Elusive deep mourning.
Broadcloth, II worn at all, must be of
he dullest finish.
Black net box plated wells with
'rspe borders are much worn by women
IS second veil, that IS when they take
III the first grensdine veil.
Tatfeta silk is bad form for mourn
ng unless one is particular to get the
ustreless kind.
No one in first mourning will ever
year laoe or velvet,
Persian lamb, chinohilla, sable and
sal skins are mourning furs, the two
ormer being the most exclusive.