The San Francisco call., 1901-10-20

out In the seven colors, but they are very
gay and are particularly barbaric; red
green. purple and all sorts Of heathenish
combinations. The colors are strapped
with blue. gold. silver and red, while ths
silk itself Is covered with flowers. Most Of
the designs are made in a circular plan
and the flowers would make a garden
blush for shame.
The regular Chinese trousers are worn
when the costume is complete, but few
girls wear them. as they are decidedly too
much trouble. 1t Is far easier to slip them
on over skirts than to take the time and
bother to make the manchu look entirely
at home. Again, the trousers call for Chi
nese shoes, for nothing looks so absurd
as tiny American shoes or slippers peep
ing out from under the Oriental dress.
One that is stiff enough to stand alone Is
made of a royal blue. There is no necessity
for lining and so for a wonder the one
color is on both sides. The trimmings are
light blue and pink broeaded in silver;
Just dainty, but not such mixture as the
majority of them. The silk Is handsoms
enough to dispense with much Of the gilt
ter. But because 1t sounds simple do not
g3t the idea into your head that 1t Is
cheaper than the others. Most people
know the full value of sweet simplicity.
The most gorgeous one of the entire six
is made Of lavender. A heavy satin.
brocaded with birds and trees. forms the
body Of the garment. The trimming,
which Is about a foot wide ordinarily.
doubles itself on the sides and makes q
yoke effect in the lack. The greatest
part Of the band is black satin. the only
other color being broad gold braid. The
flowers and butterflies are of the gold.
but they are In raised work and so show
off to the best advantage. The buttons
are small gold ones and the straps are OF
black; SO the entire manchu is made OF
contrasting colors and the effect Is strik-
ingly swell
Some of them are in very light colors.
A light blue satin makes a most bewitch-
ing negligee, Eut it takes awfClly swell
petticoats to go'with it. The border Is OF
pink, embroidered with flowers in natural
colors. then a tiny piece Of silver and
blue band covered with butterflies in gold
A low yoke effect in both back and front
Is carried out with the numerous bands.
Needless 70 say. the trimming Is the most
striking part of 1t. unless it is the peculiar
shade of pink that makes a swell lining.
When the skirt opens on either side and
a suspicion Of the pink shows at the bot
tom and at the sleeves the entire manchu
presents a gay front.
The most serviceabIe of all Is red and
green changeable silk Running all
through the silk are palms and flowers.
The decoration is a little out Of the or
dinary. The silk s the dark part and the
embroidery the light. The seven bands
are there, and the colors are exactly as
gay! but the design is little different.
too The dragon shines IN all his horrible
splendor and is KEEP within bounds by
black satin straps. This one Is very light
In weight. and there is not very much
warmth in 1t, as it is unlined. but pride
usually goes long way toward keeping
people warm when there is something
beautiful to show.
SO n you have anywhere from $50 to 800
that YOU don't know how to spend, get
royal gown and take consolation In the
fact that they are three things-swagger.
becoming and imperial.