davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1901-02-02
THE NEW FLAT COLLARS.
Paris Drcssmakers Putting Them on
Spring FOulards.
Written for The Evening Star.


The fashionable French dressmaker is try
ing to force the fiat collar, reasonably arsu-
ing that 1t is the proper companion for the
1860 sleeve. An extremely lngratlalhs
model of the newest Partisan neck decora-
ton is shown in stitched taffeta over which
a fat ctrclet of ribbon threaded lace Is laid
For such a collar q many looped knot OF
ribbons or a quaint cameo brooch Is the
proper finish
Quite the nearest approach to the fiat col
lar we have reached on this side Is a grace
ful rolling lace neckband, which does not
rise very high under ears and chin. and IS
shaped In front in two long points finished
with tassels of white silk floss falling from
little balls of gilt. This and the aforemen-
toned type of collar are destined to play a
prominent part in the completion OF the
foulards and sweet summer cloths already
making springtime in the show windows.
Our American spring and summer and
the pretty round throatS of our women are
persuasive agents in the popularization of
the low and easy neck finish. For the pres
ent however, high and ornamental stocks
and scarfs have the field to themselves.
ONLY the extremely fashionable women who
f1aunt their new plumage we'll in advance OF
every season are swathing their throats in
stitched chokerS of white satin with wing
backs of q contrasting shade Of panne. All
the narrow string ties of satin clasping the
base of the choker in front display jeweled
ferrets on their ends. Such q modish little
stock in white, mouse gray, gilt and sap
phire blue is illustrated In the group along
with a powerful rival in black and peach
pink satin. The black satin top shows a
delicate VermaCelli pattern of gold thread
and the lower tightly drawn pink satin half
Is drawn about the stock twice, fastened
with smart little gilt pins in front. and, af-
ter tying in a four-in-hand bow, let's fall
Evening star., 1901-02-02

founces Of an excellent imitation Brus-
sells or Duchess lace and above this twisted
black velvet ribbons are draped, ropes Of
black chenille are drawn through straps
of ribbon and in the rear, the ribbons or
chenille ends meet in a huge bow finished
with gilt tags.
Women who wish to minimize every ounce
of flesh have their corset covers and petit
coats, both silk and lawn. cut as one gar
ment. This obviates the extra thickness
of a belt or strings at the waist line and
the empire jupon hooks or buttons in the
rear as tightly as the texture of the goods
will stand from shoulder blades to ten
inches below the hips. From this point
down the skirt fitting with never a wrinkle
flares slightly and for use with summer
gowns the evening petticoats are made Of
crepe-de-chine broche, cream coiored
tWilled foulards or Caution silk and elabo-
rated pierced with insets of lace.
The very same pattern holds good with
the lawn and long cloth skirts and pale
cream pongee is one of the materials that
will be frequently employed in the makeup
of outdoor petticoats Of empire pattern
Evening star., 1901-02-02
TRUMPET-SHAPED SKIRTS.
GlOries of the New Century Petit
coats.

written for 1he Evening star.
The silk under petticoat of the future
promises TO be as splendid and worthy a
garment as the finest top skirt of the past
Little by little, frnges and ribbons and
spanges and lace have been added to this
garment until it has become the most
snowy and costly in the wardrobe. A thick,
but very soft brocade is the material now
best adapted to the elegant evening jupon
the lower area of the garment depending
on the fluffy accOrdian plcated or very full
gathered founce of lace or chiffon. Under
this fiounce, in order to extend it's fuIlness
double frills of the very stiffest taffeta are
gathered to the foundation skirt; one close
upon another or sometimes from the knees
drops, inside the skirt a deeply pleated
rufile or taHeta, which is thIckly frilled on
both sides Thus the lower portion Of the
petticCat is held stiftfy away from the
wearer's ankles and braces The skirts of her
gown about her in approved fashion.
Whatever mechanical devices are used 10
give the silk jup0n the proper trumpet
shape the exterior decoration makes always
for grace. Lovely rose and green hrocaae
satin skirts are seen. hung with deep
Evening star., 1901-02-02
Becoming and UnbecOming Furs.

Ermine is now only used for evening
wraps and trimming on other fur gar
ments. White caracal has taken its place
for day wear. but this quickly assumes
gray shade, which Is not becoming. There
Is no doubt that the richer looking furs,
such as sable. mink and sealskin, are more
suited for ordinary wear. But much de-
pends upon how furs are worn. and one
should be as careful in selecting as In
choosing jewels, and, If expense be no OBJ
Ject, 1t is easy enough to get some very
ueautiful examples.
But at the so.,e time lovely furs In them
selves may not suit everybody. One may
safely say that sable and sealskln are uni
versally becoming, whereas chinchllla Is
the reverse Only those women who. with
brilliant compilations. have the art of al
ways looking smart should attempt the
wearing of chinchila. Its peculiar, dui.,
stone gray hue is certainly trying So bear
In mind that to wear chinchilla you must
either be possessed OF a good color or else
resort to art to supply 1t. Many really
good looking woman who Is quite colorless
will persist in wearing beautiful chinchilla
cape In which she looks absolutely plain.
This. perhaps. is because she fastens her
cape close up to her neck. without even
the relief Of some lace or the almost inev.
liable white tulle bow.
Evening star., 1901-02-02

the chiffon and lace which, terminated IN
front by loose knot and long Marie An
tonette ends In her blond hair she wore
a superb ornament of jet and pearls.
I suppose you will want to know what
my dress was like. 1t was made of PINK
mouSseline de sole and nearly every inch
of it was tucked. All around the bottom OF
the skirt was flight OF black velvet but
terfiies and there was a very abbreviated
balero effect on the pouchy blouse waist.
used for the purpose an old scarf of
sheer black chantilly; this was passed un-
der the arms and drawn into a big chou
lust over the bust. where it looked like
another huge butterfly l had little elbow
sleeves made of black velvet ribbon lat
Evening star., 1901-02-02
- dSS"S>sssss=&==s> =s>===--==s>>-
Ii{l22 N1hZv575R !
a<z===zs-=>-~~

much in evidence this spring as ever. I
saw one chic affair of chiffon, and the
only decoration was a large butterfly en-
broidered right across the breast. Another
front was made of alternate strips of lace
and pale green ribbon. That sounds com
monplace enough, doesn't it? But the odd
touch was given by a long, narrow gold
buckle which gathered up the superfiuous
fulIness in a little bunch just below the
bust Now is the time when the economi-
cal girl makes a lot of these frivolous lit
tie accessories. 1 hail with joy stormy
day. because then Barbara and | take out
our workbaskets and our assortment of
fripperies. and we proceed to create lot
OF lace bowknots, chiffon chouX of diff
Evening star., 1901-02-02

two broad ends fringed and embroidered IN
gilt.
Not less attractive than any of the other
patterns shown is fichu necktie that has
been introduced for adoption with some OF
the pretty springtime waists.
1t Is no more nor less than an extra long
lace barbe upon which straps of black bebe
velvet ribbon are applied and made fast
with ornamental gilt or jewel set buttons
Evening star., 1901-02-02

ferent coIors and pabots for the neck
which will transform many a spring or
summer gown. They not only much
cheaper, but they are often much pref
tier than those we see in the shops be-
cause We try them on and alter them to
suit our individual style.
CATHERINE TALBOT.
Evening star., 1901-02-02
ChiIdren's Garments.

Children's garments are made in the
fashionable empire style, and these are
copied in the qualntest fashion. A favor
ed color is the dull wedgwood tint OF blue,
but for tiny children white is still univer-
sal. and very lovely peisse of soft wash
ing silk are trimmed with lace, or moro
useful ones of serge and frieze have trim
mings of Thibet fur, which is washable or
can be cleaned with the garment.
Evening star., 1901-02-02

Spec ill Cores Ttuutucc al Inc fsNtNiuS star
PARIS. January 10. 1901
have so much to say don't know where
to be gin. l want to tell you about my d.n-
ncr party for one thing, and then-ah. WELL
the rest can wait / will talk about that
famous dinner first There were twenty
nine people not counting Paul and myself,
and the reason why the number was un-
even was that Marie L'Estange saw fit to
send in her excuses at the very last minute.
Such a thing is objectionable, and you may
BE- sure she will never receive an invitation
10 any of my affairs again. One may break
anything on this earth but dinner en-
Sagement That is sacred. | had picked
out such a nice man for her too! Well, 1t
was better to he one woman than one man
short although 1 dare say NJ. Gustaye-
Passy had a rather dull time of it that
evening The table was the prettiest sight
You ever laid your eyes on. In the first
place the tablecloth was a beauty. 1t was
on of those new affairs with a centerpiece
of venetian lace and 4 wide border to cor
respond. The little dOilies all matched, too
and the entire surface of the table was one
delicate piece of lace frost work. There was
nor a colored ribbon in sight. l detest those
pink and blue strips which have so long
been the style. / think insertions or rib
bon should be kept for pillOwcase or bed
cover decoration, for they are in good taste
anywhere except III the dining room. There
were masses Of roses and asparagus fern
scattered with apparent carelessness here
and there, and little electric bulbs. thinly
veiled by the fern, were concealed among
the roses The whole effect was q soft SAL
mon pink, for we used the Sevres set with
the rose cOlOred figures, and l even carried
the idea so far as to have Andre, the deco
ratOr, put up some rose COlOred hangings
on the walls. Our dining room is one of
these dead white affairs, and so the tenn
porary change in the color scheme was ef
fected without much trouble. Most of the
women looked charming in this rose-colored
setting, excepting one trump who wore
reddish gown. That was stupid of her,
as l was particularly careful TO let II be
Known that the dinner going to be
Tose-COlCred affair. She might have taken
the trouble to find out anyway. l always
take these precautions. I think we owe 1t
10 other people. If not to ourselves to har-
mOnize with our surroundings. I'm sure
she took away my appetite whenever
locked at her. 1t was enough 70 make you
grind your teeth.
Defies Description.
Diane de Serizy wore creation which
almost defles description. II was very
tight fitting princess gown Of ivory white
satin. and II was embroidered most beau
tifully with empire crowns IN heavy, pale
green silk. Over this fell tunic Of tule
which was dotted here and there with tiny
briliants. The gown was very deCOllete
(she has a beautiful neck) and carelessly
falling over one shoulder and from there
Evening star., 1901-02-02
A Little Fur Jacket.

The other day I saw a ridiculous little
jacket of fur. 1t was made of black broad
tall very soft and very silky, one of those
things which don't wear even one season.
But what business have we to be prac-
teal in these extravagant times? AS
Evening star., 1901-02-02

ticework. and around my throat l Wore
band OF the black velvet, into which l
pinned my diamond sunburst. 1t was
very effective costume. and | think look
ed a little better than usual.
Evening star., 1901-02-02

Visiting cards of iron are popular in
Germany The name is printed in silver.
The thickness OF the cards is one four
hundreth of an inch.
New-York tribune., 1901-10-19
CURRENCY LEGISLATION.

Secretary Cages suggestions for monetary
legislation command attention because his rec
ord as a private banker as we'll as Secretary Of
the Treasury gives evidence of his exceptional
ability. Mr.. Gage expressed his views TO the
bankers assembled at Milwaukee in the shape
of creed. and the sincerity Of his six articles
of faith is beyond question. How To attain
these desirable ends will undoubtedly be shown
more definitely in the Secretarys annual report,
and il is TO be hoped that Congress will act ac-
cord!ngly. No one questions the desrability of
retiring the legal tender notes, but many will
resist all efforts i'm that direction unless con-
vinced that ample provision is made at the same
time TO replace them SO that the amount OF
money i'm circulation will not be appreciably di-
minished. The third suggestion is evidently in
tended TO meet this difficulty by making the
banknote circulation capable of expansion with
out increasing the risk to noteholders. This
matter was freely discussed in sessions of the
Finance Committee last winter, bringing out
many vital points and paving the way for some
thing conclusive al the coming session.
Since over sloooo0.epo of public money is now
deposited with the rational banks without any
profit TO the Treasury. some scheme along the
lines of the Secretary's fifth belief would seem
feasible. Leaving a much larger sum with the
hanks, and providing for an interest of . per
cent. might not he satisfactory TO the bankers.
however. if they We're still compelled to deposit
bonds Interior hanks leave their surplus with
New-1ork institutions and ask no such security.
though the radical change to a similar basis
lay the government could not he made without
violent opposition by the conservative element.
The sixth article of Mr.. Cages creed must re-
ceive general Endorsement. In time of peace
and prosperity the public debt should certainly
be decreased. and il is most desirable 10 have
the public revenue n excess Of expenditures I'm
order 20 provide the necessary sinking fund.
This does not intimate that the Secretary will
favor sweeping reductions i'm taxation. While
Mr.. Cages recommendations are all I'm the line
of advancement, tending 10 put the nations
finances iirmer footing. the changes are
so dependent on each other that they cannot
well be adopted separately, and IL may be diff
cult to secure the passage OF a bill covering all
the proposed Improvements. Fortunately, the
law of March. 1900. solved the money problem
for the present. and general business will suffer
no hardship even If further legislation is not
secured Immediately.
New-York tribune., 1901-10-19
AmuSrmrnis.


ACADEMY or Music: s:i5-Arizona-
AMERICAN THEATRE Ia Tosca.
BIJOE THEATRE-2.i5 .2l-The Auctieneer.
BROADWAY TIIEATRIc-e-l5- l5-I.a Giconda->;l'-i''
hcmian Girl.
CAsINO-2:i5-s.I5- I-irtle Duchess.
DALY'S THEATRE 2-S:lO-The Messenger Boy.
EDEN ME'sF,Fs-Day Evening World IN WaN.
EMPIRE THEATRE = l5- e20-The Second In con-
GARDEN THEATRE - 3O-n Werc King
GARRl'K THEATRE-2:i5--s:.0--A Message fr''n
HAILEM OPERA HOUSE, s.l5-Mrs Danes De
HAMMERSTEINS VICTORIA - 2:l5 s:l5 - Russell
Brothers in
HERALD SQUARE THEATRE-2:l5-s-The New
Norhers
IRVING PLACE THEATRE-2-Maria stuart-s :2o-Das
Unheschriebene F3lst
KETTITS Performances.
kNlCKERBOCkER THEATRE-2:i5-S:l.' :l.'-The Rogers
Brothers IA Washington.
1.TcEUM THEATRE -s15-The Love Match.
MADISON SQUARE TiIEATRE-2;ls--s :i5-1'le Liberty
Bellies
MANHATTAN THEATRE ei5-s:ee-M Miranda Of the
MURRAY HILL THEATRE Richelieu.
NEW SAVOY THEATRE :I5--fhe Red klooi-
NETWORK THEATRE -2I5-S .l5-Fl1rodoTa-
PAsTORS-Day and Nirht-C0ntinuous show.
PkOCTOR'S FIFTH ANENIE-l:3O 10 lOSo-What
Haprened 10 Jones and Varieties.
Ny Friend from Inaia and Varieties.
PROCrOR's l23TH STREET. 80 10 lo;30-Mme But
terny ard Varieties.
PRocroR's FIFTY EIGHTH sTREEr-i.3o TO 1870
eancO~ and Varieties.
THEATRE -s.l5-The Bonnie Brier
Bush.
wALI.AcK's THEATRE s.l5-s so-Don crsar's Re
New-York tribune., 1901-10-19
STREETCAR BRUTALITY.

Open car No. S34. of the Madison-ave. line,
ran into a confectioner's wagon on a down trip
yesterday morning Neither ear nor wagon was
seriously damaged, but the incident caused an
exhibition of brutality on the part of a railway
employe that should not go unnotced.
A car came along on the up track and stopped
alongside the open car. Its gripman shouted TO
the one who had run into the wagon: why in
didn't you kill him:" y passenger had the
courage to demonstrate with the brutal gripman,
hut received a vOlley of abuse in return, and
when the man saw that passengers were noting
the number on his capt was 1,0S3-he jeered
and asked if they didn't want his cap, toOE
1t is possible that the driver of the wagon
was as much to blame for the slight accident
as the railway employe. but so long as Presi-
dent Vreeland will keep men in his employ who
openly defy decency and give such exhibitions
of brutality aS that which the women and chill
dren i'm car No. S}4 We're compelled tO witness
Yesterday morning the public will believe him
responsible for accidents Which are too often
charged to carelessness on the part of the in-
jured.
New-York tribune., 1901-10-19
PERSONAL.

King George OF Greece is one of the few members
OF the European royal families who sticks 10 the
bicycle habit, TO which nearly all a prey a
few years ago. He takes long ride every morning.
starting at 10 o'clock
The New England Cotton Manufacturers Asso-
citation is 10 erect a bronze tablet at Rock Greek.
Ga to perpetuate the memory of Eli Whitney II
was at Rock Greek that Whtrey's cotton gin was
first put into practical operation
The late J. Erhardt the German missionary was
one OF the veterans among African explorers. In
1855 he printed a map with an immense lake. which
is said to have occasioned the important journeys
of burton and Speke. who. together with Living
stone discovered that Erhardts big lake really
three lakes-the Tansanyika, Victoria Nyanza and
Nyassa.
Professor Ernest Haeckel has announced that he
cannot undertake any public lectures ad-
dresses not only account Cf his failing health
and advanced years but also because he wishes
10 devote the remainder of his life to the compile
tion of the important works which he has on hand
He also says that he will not visit any more SCI
entihc congresses
The Rev. Sheldon A. Harris, Congregational
minister of Dwight. ILL., has been elected vice-presi-
dent of the Illinois State Federation of Labor. His
election. the delegates say. will be the means OF
bringing about better understanding between the
Church and organized labor.
The Car OF Russia Is a confirmed cigarette
smoker. lie rolls his own cigarettes from tobacco
especially imported for him from Syria.
Sir John Ramsden is said TO be the richest of all
English baronets his income 1t Is estimated foot
ing up to $4,000 year.
The Crown Prince of Siam, who has been study
ing at oxford. is about to publish volume of es-
says the War of the Polish Succession.
New-York tribune., 1901-10-19

this great city Of colleges and as such it merits
ungrudging support
Its claims are strengthened, too, by the cir
cumstances of its origin and career. Ii was
made nominally part OF Columbia University,
yet it has share in the affiuent endowments
of the latter. but is left 10 stand upon its own
financial basis. Its history has. from an intel
lectual point OF view, been creditable. A seat
in Il great city Is in some respects beneficial and
in some detrimental to college for either men
or women. Barnard has made the most of such
benefits. and has striven TO minimize the disad-
yantages, with the result that to-day IT ranks
we'll among the womens colleges of the United
States. 1t will be duly grateful to Mr.. Rookie
feler for his gift. But, more than that, the
whole community owes him much gratitude for
what he himself is about to give and for the
discreet manner In which he inspires others TO
give and arouses general interest in a good
cause. There is ample room among the colleges
and universities of New-YOrk for millions OF
endowment, every dollar of which would yield
cent per cent profit in the intellectual, moral
and social welbeing of the community. 1t is to
he hoped most earnestly that Mr.. Rockefeller's
offer will be more than met, and well within the
allotted time and that 1t and It's complement will
be simply the beginning of vast and wise endow-
ments of New-York's best seats of learning.
New-York tribune., 1901-10-19
TIE STNDAY TRIRENE.

The great flower show at Madison Square
Garden next week will be thing OF beauty and
a joy-as long as IL lasts. IL will appear TO last
the longer 10 readers of The Sunday Trib-
une, for in tO-mOrrOw's issue some of its most
attractive features will he illustrated In ad-
vance. There will be i'm the same paper a
critical discussion of the Greek hymn which is
to he sung at Yales bicentennial celebration; n
portrait and character sketch of Barney" Mar
tin, the Tammany leader; the designs for the
prize medals awarded at the Pan-American Ex-
position, a picture and history OF the mansion
of the KnickerbOcker Governor Van Den
Heuvel. which is soon TO be demolished; expert
chroncling of the dOings of the big football
teams which are now the centre of athletic in
terest and great array Of other features Of
contemporary interest.
These are all, of course, i'm addition to the
regular departments of criticism. miscellany,
etc. and the complete presentation of the
worlds news in the best possible form. Patrons
Of The Sunday Tribune will find to-mOrrow's
issue up 10 the highest standard 10 which they
have been accustomed, while those who have
not hitherto read il will have in il new reve-
latiOn of journalistic excellence
New-York tribune., 1901-10-19

Few runners of distinguished merit among Older
horses and mares have represented Mr. Whit
ney's turf Investments on the New World tracks
this year. hut his colt kilmarnOck achieved a
substantial victory i'm France a few days ago,
and KilmarnOck is To be brought back to show
his PAGES hereabouts next summer. He has
stable companions abroad who possess quality
and class. swftness and staying power. But
the Whitney horses that will race in the Empire
State in 1902 especially at Saratoga and Sleeps
head Bay. make up a dazzling constellation of
colts and fllies that will then be three years of
age. Among them are Nssturtium and Yankee
Goldsmith and GOldseeker. King Hanover and
Pretorius Endurance by Right and Blue Girl
and many another of noble lineage and notable
exploits. 1t is n wonderful stable.