The Republican journal., 1901-03-14
-.sT HOURS IN SPAIN.

40 Tomb of Ferdinand and Isas
Visu " ce,eraIife, or Summer Palace
'eln 'ne Princes.
correspondence of The Journal
| ,nA Feb. 10, 1901. Even With
onL ,ho Ahambra and its romantic as
'l' ..,ions s Grenada though poverty
,an sofla@ dirty and degenerate-is one
stT'So stho most interesting cities in the
d It's streets are filthy beyond
FOi" and SO narrow that in most of
aomp. .,ro horsemen cannot ride abreast;
F0S'" crowded are they with gypsies
anu Sosoars, with the ragged and lep-
SDu and diseased, that during some
I0rs Of the day you can hardly force
nO''s ,sre through them. Again, when
a F @be spanish world is taking its siesta,
% o. - are completely deserted, except by
'r' smells. sleeping dogs and swine,
WV ,io and bacteria. 1t is not the
| o+ places to wander in, either in
' ,,q1 Of catching things or of be-
'l .onrht bv thievish hands. The Rev.
[ [na Manning relates that when he
.oj tlis place not long ago with a
,s1, Of friends, they halted near
.st.-lral TO witness some solemn
' .,.a...su of ecclesiastical dignitaries
srr tle Holy Ghost, at sight of
,o1. AN the bystanders fell on their
.,.sslaI urayed loudly; yet in less than
,ar..ips three of his party had their
...tst. picked by the kneeling crowd.
M. houses of Grenada, though pic
.,r..our in the extreme, have all a
r,+eIly djlapidated appearance, and
.ss inhabitants wear the detected air of
,,oa.ps. povelty. Venetian blinds are
..,,,,4nled over all the balconies, and
.l,ou,h lUeir interSticeS you see luS-
+-ons ewes peering out at you to catch
-gmpses Of >warthy cheeks and jet-black
trssses that betray the Moorish ances-
.~v of the Grenadians. Nearly every
lar has at one side of it an altar, on
rbr is displayed a plaster image, ar
-r.5 iu blue and tinsel, amid a cloud of
-y4Ias and paper flowers. Grenadian
srs.4 is purely Spanish, far different
t-oa that of the western provinces,
where Parsian and English fashions
are ia, ,upplanting the snowy national
r,sfeme The ladies wear lace mantil-
ss8nd embroidered skirts of light col
oreG ,1l and are never seen without a
gr vich no one else on earth knows
g. VeI noN to WELD in the language of
0oretrl The men are invariably muf-
443 IN the eyes in a cloak-hot or cold,
nlil nj SHINE, they hide themselves be-
band ii, luminous folds, precisely like
-iestage villain in disguise; except on
,une grand holiday, when for few un-
easy hours they perambulate in the
,palor of velvet jacket and silken
ss.,oi crimson or purple, but hasten
yac6 sI the earliest moment to the ac-
uSrumpa shelter of the dun-colored
uos rs q timid rabbit to its burrOw.
Nt8t IS theuameless charm that makes
tiS1 dirty old town so very attractive?
Is it +0e cllmate-fervid African sum-
ma Hoed by mountain breezes: or
tt lowrIad Sierra Nevada, shining
overhead ike a white cloud in the blue
ss0. the yiolets that carpet the coun-
r. fine dropping elms-the only ones
o. ~r the romantic traditions that
a..e very object as with garment:
or rs aii of these combined? That
glorious pile of mountains is justly the
pHde aud delight of Grenada, the source
" H perfect climate and perpetual
arue of her gushing fountains and
7erMid. streams. To the overshadow-
mg sierra is due that blending of de-
AeIs ,o rare in a southern city,-the
1esI Je-etatlon and the temperate airs
Nf northern climate with the vlvify-
LIZ aWor OF a tropical sun and the
eoudese azure of southern sky. 1t
is tins aerial treasury of snow which,
melting IN proportion to the increase of
IAt summer heat, sends down streams
MToas! every glen and gorge, diffusing
emerald yerdure and marvellous fertili-
= through the chain of valleys known
dS the Vega. Enough of Moorish ar
1Hltrcture remains intact to show that
'ht fourteenth century was the His
pane Arab age of gold. All the coun-
ines which the armies of Islam had
oVefrm in their wonderful career fur
hahed suggestions to the master-build-
eH IN Grenada. The huge stone blocks
~ It's gates are copied from the ma
''hIy Of the Romans, who built for
eternity, The hanging gardens are the
gardens Of Babylon. The carved ami
I1als are Phpnecian, the fountain-bas
initiate the brazen laver of Solomon, as
mentioned in the Koran. The wonder
'tStueeo-work was invented in Damas-
guS' and the hand of the Persian artist
n seen on the glittering walls. Nor did
VIE Moor, ever proud of his origin and
Ivhacous of his prejudices Of his race,
''ough d0miciled for centuries in a for
egh and hundreds of leagues from the
a'he @ Of his ancestors, reject the in
A1ehce of their traditions in the deco
.S'ion of his palaces. The lotus of
Fgyn+ o,,d a..