The Honolulu republican. [volume] (Honolulu, T.H.) 1900-1902, 1901-07-28

cation Tor neaifn anu bappfueeS IL
overturned. And for what? A few
moments OF enjoyment
II is all wrong, and sooner or later
we will awake to the fact, too late,
perhaps to throw of the chains which
are harder to break than the Rock Of
Gibraltar. On your win power alone
depends your success No one can
help you. Before il is too late think
OF this and fight the evil to the bitter
end
Two out of every four OF the smart
frocks are of pongee. Every variation
has been placed on this fabric. It is
made up with simplicity for the morn
ing and with elaborate garniture for
the afternoon. IL can serve for a
shirt waist or for a wedding reception.
In a letter from one of the best and
most conservative of dressmakers
was told that she had more orders for
pongee gowns than for any other. As
pongee is not expensive, and as it is
so delightfully."- cool. this surely is
gratifying news TO those who want a
pretty frock that need not be lined.
The pongee is almost in every case
tucked. 1t is too fiimsy a fabric to
make up severely.
When made deliberately the heavy
brown laees are used with splendid
harmony. The tncking overlaps usual
~ on the new blouse. Then sometimes
there is a bolero of lace; again one
of the new satin collars that reaches
to the waist line in front.
One or two of the skirts were tuck
ed in panels down the hips, then let
in with a six-inch band of heavy gel
low lace, then three ruffles on a fac
ing.
The shirt waists of it were very
smart. made with seven-gored skirts.
tucked down 70 the seams. three
shaped fiounces at the foot, and tuck
ed blouse with pipings of white linen,
a stock of the material piped with red
India silk or white linen, and belt of
black taffeta. pointed at the back I'M
| der long fancy buckle that runs the
depth of the point in front, fastened
with stick pin or fancy buckle.
II you have silk slip to wear this
pongee over. you may use it on COO
evenings, but most of them are intend
ed to wear over smart white under
wear You know they wash perfectly
What a consolation,
Pin-dotted India silk will serve OF
constant duty both for shirt waisi
suits and afternoon frocks 1t come!
Ia the dark and new delft blue with {
pin-dot OF white or black Seryiceabl,
suits are being made of this fabri,
with deep circular skirt. seam dowr
the front. deep plated fiounce from
the knees down. and blouse put int
thread tueks an inch apart all over ;
center box plat piped with whit,
China silk. fastened with white carvel
pearl buttons. Then over this goe
the inevitable sailor collar of whit
lace. brown lace or embroidered gras
cloth: or. il you have it, the reall
smart collar of cut-out designs o
heavy silk. embroidered together wit
silk cord In white and some pal
color.
The sleeves of the blouse are ais
in tucks with narrow wristbands an
turnover cuffs. These frocks, no MAJ
ter how elaborate. are also withou
lining. except for the blouse. whie
has a lining over the shoulders and to
part of the arm and back. of Chin
silk or muslin. TO protect the sill
J from the moisture OF the skin.
One OF the smart blouses for shii
waist suits in all soft materials
knife pleated: quite large pleats. wit
. the fullness brought into point at ii
waist. The sleeves are pleated hor
zontally and then made slightly mou
quetaire.- The inside hand Is strapps
with stitched band TO give body |
the sleeve. This is the most effecti,
plain sleeve for thin woman that ca
be gotten.
A friend Of mine was at the Ds
gren-Lehr wedding. and this is what Il
said about it.
saw enough beautiful clothes
that affair 70 last me for some tin
as pleasant memory. but added
l. by an hour or so az the Waldorf al
again another hour talking to some
the great dressmakers. who show.
me the beautiful froeks they we
/ setting ready for SKINNER wear
the host Of people who are getting o
Of town.
There were many things that d
lighted me in the days work.
One thing was that found out III
= even New York with all its extrem
Of dress has not differed very mn,
from the styles that have prevails
: ell winter
Another was THAI tueks IS msthl
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