Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1901-09-21
Special Correspondence.

The brightness, ease and care
less elegance Of life on this sea-
girt rock IL a boundless surprise !
n 10 the stranger. OF course I
"society" is headed by English |
~ officers ard their families, most
" weli-born and many Of them
wealthy; and they indemnify mem
so,yes for temporary exile by duphca'-
do everv home luxury on the tihy
island and reyiying the hilarious Gus
TOMS of the knights OF old. PARIS 70
hardly more brilliant than the srau"
peale ON a pleasant evening, WIN NM
torv hands playing, nags of all nations
onttering In the soft breeze every
building illuminated, and gaily dresseu
ladies' sitting in their balconies cha'-
fling with throngs of promehauerS'
shons are filled with costly goods from
London. Paris Vienna, Berlin manu-
some eouipages dash past, or stahu
waiting before the splendid facades oil
The auberges OF the knights up-to-date
ho,els display their sign-boards on
every hand, and crowdb OF traVele.s'
arriving from the east ana rom lne
west AT this halfway RENDEZVOUS, w
ate constant stir at the hosteules anu
add to the life and motion 50 ol3I"S
sNris,tc nj Malta, Wherever you look
~ LANDSCAPE is brilliant with scarlet
coats or multi of the British army. zen
thousand English soldiers are stationed
a. Vuletta and other well-garrisoneu
enrtiHcatious are scattered all over thls
leland and it's smaller dependencies
poing the Headquarters or the Meu
,terranean fleet, dozen black-palnleu
men-of- war are always anchoreu W tle
harbor their decks crowded with bIlt,
ish tars: while every hillside Is dol'eu
with troops at drill. 40
THE houses of Malta appear 10 DC as
comfortable to live in as they are
oualnt OF exterior All are low put very
large on the ground, with ImihehsV
rooms, deep porcbes, projecting bone
les and queer little green-palhteu oIi Or,
oles. The universal BUILDING llalIi,"'
e. Maltese stone, almost snoW-whlle'
soft es chalk when quarried, but pc
coming hard as marble when exposed 10
the air and susceptible Of as me
nolish The crowds that preampulate
these streets are as remarkable LOT
MIXTURE OF races as their costumes LOT
variety and richness Of cOlOring, Dusky
Italians and dustier Maltese, stately
Arabs and gestlculating Frenchmen ana
enaniards the human flotsam and jet
san, of every land meet and mingle AT
Malta. Though so long a British pos
session, Italian Is yet the language Oh
the Islands is among the upper
classes. who call themselves Nathan
sab. which the English. after their I'M
enyiable habit OF numbering naines,
have corrupted to MaWltee2e' lne
nopulation. exclusive Of the military,
Il reckoned al 10000, and the peas
antry, who compose the bulk OF H.
speak strange tongue. or rather
mixture of tongues. derived from many
sources Arabic predominates In H.
however so strongly that the Maltese
can communicate with their barbery
neRhbors as easily as the Spanlards
with the Portuguese. Education IS adj
mirably provided for In Malta by u
vell-patronized college at Villetta,
whore degrees are conferred In da-
vinlty law and medicine. more IMAM
hundred private educational institu-
tlons, and upwards Of seventy pubilc
schools, all under the 'board-hchool
system OF England There Is also
volumes: museum conservatory OF
music and several OF those useful as
sociatons known In the Latin world
as "lyceums." for which we have no
equivalent In America, Among many
charitable enterprises, one Of the most
worthy Is the home for incurables,
founded a couple Of centuries ago by
an Italian lady, who endowed II later
with all her possessions, including a
gallery Of paintings and the family
plate II used TO be reserved exclusive
ly for women. but In recent years lts
three hundred beds have been opened
10 hopeless invalids OF both sexes ana
All natlonalities There are other nos
pitfalls. civil and military; orphan ana
foundljng asylums; and q Monte de
Piedad. "mountain OF pity or colossal
pawn-shop, conducted by the govern
ment. like that In the City OF Mexico
The busy postoffice occupies the hand
some house In which Napoleon liyed
during his short residence In Malta
The fnest and largest OF the ,olC
knights palaces, "Auberge de CASTLE
now forms the Joint mess OF the koya
artillery. and King Edwards engineers
and the quarters OF the former: an'
the balls they give In the great ban
quoting hall are swell" enough for IN
height OF London season. In grue
some contrast is the nearby ossuarlo
literally bone house'O, a KIND O
tomb. or chapel, whose walls-apoN'
below. on every side, are festooned W.T.
human homes The crypt beneath
fuu OF bones to the brim-tons Of then
collected from the ancient cemetery
the Brotherhood Of St John, which ha
10 be removed when the city sprea
out on its hillside
There are so many interesting thlhl
10 see on this tiny island that OF
hardly knows where 10 begin one
The great how places Of the world, yo
know Is the church OF the knights
st John built by Grand Master Jea
de Cassiere. In the year zoos For
time II was the richest ecciesiasuc
edlhce In Europe, until Napoleons 50
diers swept away most OF its treasure
but though so denuded II Is yet !
markable for splendid adornmenis. pl
lures statuary. monuments-;to ~
nothing Of It's historic association
There seemed TO be n rivalry amo
the successive grand masters OF I
order TO see which should most enrl
their sanctuary. and every knight w
bound by law to make Il present
promotlon. besides the gifts n "
constantly receiving from popes, kin
mobiles and private individuals. a.
can one describe In limited space
structure two hundred feet long
one hundred and twenty-five feet wi
whose every inch IS crowded with n
morials9 It's great facade IS surnou
"a hv the cherished symbol Of
Knights OF Jcrusalem-thc Mali
cross OF eight points Below this D
bronze bust of our Savior over
main entrance appears the coat
arms OF Pope Gregory XIII, and
either side Of IL the arms OF Gr'
Master casylere and some Latin
scrlptions The facade Is hanked
each end by a beethoven, one cohte
INC seven bells. for the annorncem
~ Worship the other three bells
striking the clock This ancient ~
piece by the way, Is worthy Of not