New-York tribune., 1901-02-24

toner is introduced not 10 the head Of the estab-
lshment. but 10 of the many women I'm his re-
oeption room. who there for the purpose Of
taking orders and receiving customers. These
women all work for a percentage on their sales al
though sometimes in addition they may have
small salary guaranteed. II is one OF these women
for whom the guide is working. and to whom he
looks for his pay. Then when she books the order
she looks 10 her employer for a certain per cent
before he has chance 10 make his profit out Of II
OF course. ta' higher the price charged for the
gown. the more money there Is 20 divide. and
under such conditions such thing as a fixed price
is Impossible. Il is this system OF paying such a
large proportion OF the profits TO the middleman or
middltmen that is responsible for some of the
abuses from which the working people suffer
~ ~ Z - ZeaSlIE seen what bad system this Is for
paying the proper price for a gown Every attemp5
- 'laae - % e. htT order no trouble is TOO much
hands As The women Wro ser,-e in he rsce,,, on
rooms work oA percentage and not for fixed
gard TO liking nrices and l t,eir t9r,i-' ,1ttsyd
Paris Is more or less familiar with TIE disagree
toner 10 order. whether she likes What Is shown
her or not " hen an American women the other
day entered The reception room of one Of the best
known miliiners of Paris she coOy asked By
an atieiGant II she intended purchasing and in
formed that their rules mere not 10 show hats eN-
cept 70 bona nde customers Another woman Was
argriv tor5 tbat .sfrsr hs,tr sen +bair ,,,,SeI-
and taken up their time she had no right 70 leave
curTenCe TO follow customer 10 her hotel. gain ad
mission 20 her room and extract from her a prom
iSe return 10 che dresSmaktr's on the plea thai
they have something 10 show her Tn many
The proprietor Of the establishment j. isuo-
rant Of the extent 10 which this undguited treat
Os customers Is carried some zoo. lave
found out that IL has affected their business,
especially with Am, ricans, ana have stopped II.
but n is not uncommon practice.
Even with the strike. there Is considerable dress
making going on up and down the Rue de la PaiN.
The tailors turning out good many street
suits with the princess skirt and short bolero This
skirt pretty when the bOlero IS short behind and
has long in front. In its original shape. with
the princess effect carried up the bust and there
broken only by a small bOlerO the gown Is IN most
cases unbscOming.
There is attempt to make skirts again very
close about the hips with none TOO much cloth dis
posed into the two narrow oON pleats that comprise
the back. A skirt of ths order fares about the
feet generally by means - well hitting circular
hounce: Il IL in fact the skirt that was in vogue
IA Paris a year This tendency TO Introduce
again close skirt seems confined 10 the tallOT-
The dressmakfrs who are responsible for elaborate
silk confecfons for reception gowns and especially
for evening gowns advocating "A skirt ratntr
fuller than the one that has been worn
The feature that Is decidedly new this spring Il
the coat tan position hack These are attached
10 almost every kind OF bodice. and. indeed they
NAV quite properly be attached 20 a belt velvet
hell With little velvet coat tails haEC.rg 10 n j.
the height OF modishnesS