davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1901-03-02

promised all sorts of pretty but rather fam
tastic laced and buttoned belts, for VS.
with our summer silks and silk warp voiles.
The lacing will be done-with gold or silver
cord, and the, buttons will be Of bright paste
or cabochon Jewels.
Meantime the novelty loving women de-
rive infinite satisfaction from their p9st.l-
ion belts that happily can adorn waists OF
all ages and sizesI A smart American idea
this position girdle is. and the strap tbs t
encircles the middle is wide or narrow, IS
the purchaser may select. A black silk or
satin band, stitched to a state of desirable
stiffness, edged with gilt or silver gimp,
fastened in front with stitched tongue
and buckle. becomes a. jaunty position by
the simple device Of fastening in the back
long or short, fiat or fluffy tail, made Of
the same goods as the belt itself. Some
times the tail is trimmed with gimp to
match the belt, but just as often it is left
quite plain, save for a chaste design work.
ed out in small gilt buttons.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1901-03-02
At Spring Openines.

Those who have not taken advantage of
the opening days should not neglect the
final scene in the bargain play If they are
bent on securing what they need at the
cheapest rate, for most of the best shops
conclude by selling off as much as they
can at almost any price, and blouses. gloves,
stockings and kindred treasures are to be
had at less than half their value. bar
gain sale does not bring out the best as
pect possible of feminine nature. Indeed,
it is somewhat notwithstanding to note the
look of hungry acquisition on a dear, famil-
lar face, but women are persistent and
will go through far more than it is worth
for what they are pleased to consider a
bargain.
Dress has been the delight and torment
of the world ever since it began. grace
full personality is the most powerful rec
ommendation the best possible letter Of
Introduction, in world and social state
given to judge by eXternals.
In these directions lie the modes Of the
moment; the future is veiled The three
quarter basques in tailor majes have
great following in the country for walking
and hard wear. They are found to be
warmer and more healthy, especially as
with these dresses no petticoats are worm
only knckerbockers to match the gown,
with high boots or CATERS.
The triple capes on the shoulders beautify
coats for town wear, but in the country
they have turned down collars after the
order of the masculine coat.
Some of the short boleros show a couple
of capes on the shoulders, which certainly
have an element of smartness. Sometimes
these end in the front in a bow or sailor
knot but plainness almost amounting to
severity characterizes the blouses of to-
day, many of them having a species OF
shirt front made in eolienne chiffon Grape
or crepe de chine satin, the overlapping
sides slightly gathered in at the waist and
scalloped down the edges. When the skirts
are deliberately trimmed the boleros are
treated in the same way.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1901-03-02
UAh ND FIVFFY HODGES.
designed for Wear With the WINES
"reckage of Pretty WardrObcs

written for The Evening Star
odu evening waists elbow sleeved ana
open In the throat, are to be fabricated at
d minimum cost from bargain counter tro-
pines. Such waists are designed for spring
anu summer wear with pretty net silk and
white wool grenadine skirts that have been
saved from the winter wreckage of pretty
wardrobes, or are themselves evolved from
marked-down ends of dress patterns But
Whatever the skirt may be- the waist with
which 1t is worn, stands on its own merits
and should be the gayest and most elabo-
rate half of the costume. In other words.
the SKIRT is a mere support and background
Tor It's bright, gay, fluffy loneliness and
three such waists that were constructed
from pretty reduced odds and ends ara
given to show what charming forms these
lngratiating little garments take
Inc FIRST one is wrought from a remnant
OF Imitation Irish point lace of a deep tea.
tint allied with sky blue accordion leated
chiffon. The boned body, on which the
lace and chiffon are draped, is of blue silk,
put the sleeves are transparent. with O.
vine of the stout lace covering the seam
at the back of the arm. With such a body
a cream white grenadine skirt is the prop
err accompaniment, and this inexpensive
toilet is meant for service at small dinners
and informal dances. The second waist
was built of pink silk muslin, white imita-
ton Louis point lace and black velvet rib
bOll, LOT IL Tall ana TdlHer dItenuated ueDu-
tante who wished to use ii with black
satin skirt. How well the dressmaker sue
ceeded in creating diaphanous fullness
where angels required concealment only an
acutely slender woman can appreciate.
A cream colored bolero of coarse net,
brilliantly and profusely jeweled and SPAN
gled and rescued from a bargain counter.
was the foundation and inspiration of the
third bodice. By dropping the bolero over
an old maize colored taffeta ball gown
body, adding puff and bow of chiffon, a
bit of broad betting ribbon and a garland
of little roses a very charming garment
was contrived for almost nothing at all.
With view to encouraging this manu-
facture of odd evening waists the proprie-
tors of the dry goods shops are showing
the most enticing little tailed and short
backed coats of coarse string and tea-col-
ored net, on which flowers of white or col
ored silk are applied with gilt or silver
thread To put these coats into practical
wearing the purchaser need only rip the
Wilted trimmings from any old evening
bodice and draw over the boned skin OF
silk one of the transparent jackets. In adj
dition to the net coats there are equally
pretty ones of tucked liberty and silk mus
lin and taffeta mousseline stitched with sill
YER thread.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1901-03-02

gum Is the creator. OF course, YOU can't
!eli much from a first fitting; but, accord
ing 10 his descriptions, it ought to be very
handsome 1t Is to be all banded with inch
"lde black velvet ribbons. and it is to have
a nounce embroidered in buttonhole work
IN black and white silk 1t will be lind
win pale blue satin, for most of nv gowns
VIII nave blue touch this year The most
enc thing OF all is. perhaps the black chif
ION Jabot with which it will fasten in front
RMS Is to be ornamented with a large pearl
buckle. t
There. l had almost forgotten to mention
very interesting little bit of gossip which
comes from Nice. 1t appears that CASTOR
&c Neuilly landed from his friends Yacht
and passed last Thursday at Cannes. 1t
appears also that Cecile Dubarrois was
spending that day in Cannes with her old
friend. Marguerite GirardeI Well, YOU can
imagine what happened. CASTOR turned the
corner of the street just as the two girls
came driving along in Marguerite's high
English cart Tableau. Marguerite nearly
pulled the cob up on its hind legs. Castor
dc Neullly bowed to the ground Mile. &C.
Gle Dubarrois merely tilted her little chin
an inch higher as the cart rolled by in a
cloud of dust She did not give him one
sign of recognition, though she could not
nave failed to see him. How furious Mime.
de Neuiily will be when she hears OF it,
CATHERINE TALBOT
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1901-03-02
From the New York Sun.


Linen of domestic manufacture and, still
more, linen made in France, are together
making a strong fight in the American
market against the Irish linen which for
years has been accepted as the best and
finest manufactured in the world, and i'm
porters say that the Irish linens are losing
ground In France just as fine linen is be-
ing made now as in Ireland, and it is much
better in design, because while the con-
servative Irishmen stick to the patterns
they have been using for the last fifty
years, the French manufacturers are en-
ploying artists, who have produced very
much handsomer designs.
The Frenchmen are handicapped in their
attempt to get first place in the American
market, however, by trying to introduce
new fashion here. Instead of making up
their linen in individual pieces they manu-
facture 1t in lengths. intending that sec
ton as long as may be desired shall be cut
off by the retailer when making sale, and
as this chops into the pattern many house
wives don't care to buy their linen In this
way.
In the English market the attempt to sell
linen in this way has been failure, but In
this country, where new Ideas have bet
ter chance than in England, the manufac-
turers have not given up the attempt or
making the purchase OF linen In lengths
fashionable.
German-made linen has the poorest repu-
tation in the American market, as 1t Is
starched and artificially thickened, so that
while it looks well when new, 1T does not
stand the test of a washing. 1t is this
cheap but dishonest linen which the Amer.
ican-made article is driving out OF the mar
ket.
Climate largely influences the color OF
new linen, and, therefore, while domestic
made linen has not yet acquired the snowy
whiteness of Irish and French linen, II can
be sold more cheaply and, unlike the Ger
man linen, improves with use.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1901-03-02
More Than Ever Needed for Display
Of Evening Finery.
FAT is FATAL TO REAL GOOD STYLE
Posy Silks Revived in Honor of
Queen Alexandra.
VOGUE WILL EQUAL PANNE
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star

Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
NEW YORK March 1, 1901.
1t still requires a high pressure corset,
hot baths and pickle diet to keep stout
women down to the proportions requisite
for a proper display OF the newest evening
finery. Never before has fat been more
fatal to style and grace in dress; gowns
manufactured on both sides Of the Atlantic
are no fuller at the hips, no shorter at the
waist, and no wider at the knees than we
have worn them for the past two years.
Perhaps for morning and afternoon toilets
there is a trifle more in breadth and flare
near the hem than of yore, but in the mode
of the bodice and even in the goods used
one must wander far af1eld in order to find
a novelty.
A pretty show is undeniably being made
of the poSy silks that are said to be a re-
vival of a fashion dating from Queen Alex
andra's girlhood. The description applies
only to those soft evening fouards and tat
fetas that are brooched In close-set bou-
quets or little round Vatican wreathes that
often are as brilliantly colored as the nose
gays on an old-fashoned Wedgewood plate
The posy silks are designed for the debu-
tantes especially and should be worn with
shoulder knots and trailing garlands of
flowers that will exactly match those
printed on the silk.
Rose Du Barry Toilet.
Two seasons ago women We're wearing
Powered silks incrusted with very loose
meshed lace, and again this spring that
pretty fashion has come to the fore There
is high-throated, long seeved dinner gown
accompanying this text to show what the
latest phase of lace and silk is A bright
rose du Barry taffeta of solid color edged
with bands of black chenille, forms the
two deep f1ounces Of the skirt while the
waist and top of the skirt are made of tat
feta of the same quality, but gaily figured
in closely massed daringly yellow flowers
with dashes Of green foliage. All this
strong color, however, is softened by a veil
Of cream lace dropped over the Powered
surface and tackled firmly to it by in
visible stitches that the lace almost appears
to be woven with it.
Since the dressmakers and their patrons
continue to cling to the Serpentine mode in
gown building, the manufacturers have
brought out none but soft finished evening
materials. They have introduced a satin
chiffon that promises to enjoy a vogue
equal to that of panne. AS it's name i'm
plies it is as soft chiffon and as bright,
rich and as durable as satin itself From
satin de Lyon and satin duchesse from
peau de sole and peau de cygne every bit
of the dressing and close weaving that
makes for stiffness has been left out, and
panne itself has been reduced in weight to
meet the requirements of the prevailing
preference for soft self dra ping goods
AS to the make up of these plant ma
terials every dressmaker leaves it to her
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1901-03-02

panne, properly made falls in folds that
glitter with high. white lights, the skirt is
long treated with ruft1es Of itself, the waist
Is plain, sleeveless, cut open, square In the
decolletage and completed with touch
Of t1me-browned lace and pearls. To
judge Of the happy result of this arrange
ment the reader has only to glance at the
slender woman, bending over the billiard
table. In the accompanying illustrat ton. In
her dark hair a tuft of black chenille COW
cred wires rises gracefully from short jet
ted wings. and In passing, and out of re-
spect to our subject, it is proper to in
form inquiring minds that women's heads
are very much dressed Of an evening
Hair Ornaments and Jewels.
Big bows and ospreys and chenille sprays
and tulle scarfs are all popular and pretty
hair ornaments. but the prettiest and most
unique fancy Is the tuft of close curled
fern fronds and sprays Of maiden hair fern
that the girl Of sweet sixteen pins in her
shining tresses The fern ornaments are
made of green velvet or green chenille and
are the most exquisite reproduction Of ma
lures own inimitable efforts. Bows Of
raveied gold and silver ribbon are decora-
tive and not yet hackneyed but spangled
roses have evidently lost all their charm of
novelty and the women who pride them
selves on their good taste wear only green
or black ornaments.
At last 1t has been discovered that dia-
mondS become only the few, while pearls
enhance the clearness and color of ever
complexion, therefore the manufacturers
can hardly meet the demand for the pink
or white imitation gems. No woman
seems to feel herself equipped for the So
cial fray without a string or two of pearls
on her neck or arms. and those who are
always scouting in advance Of the thou
sands for something new are setting great
store by their ropes Of ash pearls, which
make the neck on which they are worn look
whittier by contrast. Ash pearls strung with
turquoise beads and worn with q black
.panne gown are considered tres chic in
Paris. MARY DEAN.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1901-03-02
the central gown of the group of refresh
ingly pretty evening costumes.

the central gown of the group of refresh
ingly pretty evening costumes.
4 Group of Costumes.
The sister toilets of the group show, the
one to the left, how white panne is going
to be made up for the spring wearing, and
the one to the right is a study in rosy
lilac satin and string colored Venice lace.
The glove sleeve of lace is carried out in
this illustration with the perfection of
grace, and on one shoulder a double string
of Partisan pearls and on the other a band
of dull red roses are in agreeable contrast
to the commonplace strap and small rever
that so many gowns show.
Colors may come and colors may go, but
the black gown remains forever. Black
toilets garnshed with spangles and gilt
have had their day and we have gone
back to black unrelieved by any decora-
ton save little lace and a touch of
color near the shoulders. Last winter the
dusky velvet gown was, as is always, the
standard of dignity of splendor. This
spring a very brilliant black panne Is I'M
rivaled in it's effective charm. A black
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1901-03-02
RIacE Caracal.

There is something very smart about black
broadtail or caracal. BY the latter is not
meant that coarse stuff which is sometimes
called by the name. but the real baby lamb
which, when manipulated by expert hands
is certainly the best fur for tight-ftting
garments. Furriers should be congratulated
upon the way in which they have fashioned
egg blue cloth skirt, with lace blouse
showing some blue shadings to correspond
worn under pouohed coatee of sable, with
near the face, surmounted by a black pic
ture hat. forms an ideal toilet for the fash
ionable woman a. $50.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1901-03-02
The Din Buckle.


From the Philadelphia Telegraph.
The straight front which we now all pre-
sent to the world has necessitated like
change In the attitude Of our buckles. The
dip buckle Is now The thing. and, as is to
be expected from its name, 1t gives that
dip In front which Dame Fashion requires.
1t comes. of course, in all manner of styles
and in all the Popular metals. One form
has. In addition to the slides at the side.
through which the ribbon passes. two loops
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1901-03-02

at the bottom, through which the ribbon
ends are run and tied low down to give
device is quite helpful for the buckle is so
shaped that it keeps its place. and thus
holds the knot of ribbon where it Is tied,
not always an easy matter to achieve 9TH
erwise. We all have had troubles of our
own when our BELTS ribbons, bows and the
like persist in riding up
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1901-03-02

patron to choose between a design OF an
evening gown with or without overskirt.
If the choice Is for an overdress then that
garment must be of chiffon, satin chiffon or
liberty silk draped tunic wise. bordered
with lace, or NOR. sweetly still edged with
shirrings and tiny puffed frills. in which
at intervals knots Of rosebuds and baby
leaves are nestled. Directly In front, or
on one hip, the tunic is slit open from hem
to waist line and full gathered. or drawn
fiat over the hips and back Just how this
Roman tunic should be draped Is shown in
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1901-03-02

folks do in theory-that is. they are not So
cially at home before February, md they
do not resume their reception days until
then. So this week, along with cards from
the Comtesse de Germny, Nine. BaTtholini,
Nine. Gavin de Campile and others who
have just returned to town, l received an
nOuncementS from several of my stay-at-
home acquaintance giving me to under
stand that they also We're about to resume
their days. Isn't it funny?
TOques and BOas.
Nine Celeste showed me some very pretty
neckwear she was making to match the
spring hats of her customers. She had two
toques of black and gray tulle. respective
~ and she was making two boas to match
them. You know that is the latest wrinkle
now. The black hat was all laid in fine
shirrings. The brim was faced with pale
green foliage, and the top was trimmed in
and the green foliage The boa to go with
this was made of countless ruffies of plated
mousseline The rulings were all edged
with shirred narrow velvet baby ribbon of
pale green. Here and there peeped out gold
roses like those in the hat, and streamers
composed of narrow black velvet ribbon
completed the coquettish effect
The gray boa was palmer. 1t was made of
accordion-plaited crepe de chine, edged with
a rurhe of chiffon of the same shade Into
all this HuffineSS there was gathered a lot
of very cobWebby yellow lace The hat
forgot to say, was trimmed with two big
yellow roses.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1901-03-02

suit, last Wednesday drove to Mime. Poir-
sons hotel on Place Masherbes. We had
been told that NJ. Maurice Lefebre would
talk some subject or other-upon my
word, l have forgotten what. All l know IS
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1901-03-02

Black silk makes the waist look the
smallest. For the moment many people are
using fur collars and triple position capss
with silk-iined cloth, and no other outdoor
garment.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1901-03-02

.T confess I was greatly disappointed in
your friend: You told me he was so witty"
'Ah, my dear madam. but you gave US
only Apollinaris at dinnerI'-Life.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1901-03-02
Black Silk Coats.

Nothing Will be more stylish this sprinp
than long directoire coat of black peau
de sole. l am having one made now. Pa
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1901-03-02

This winter Partisan women seem to
have the mania for appearing learned
have had at least dozen invitations to
Join different "cercles instruisantes." These
Instructive 'cercles' are reunions once a
week at popular houses for the purpose of
listening TO dry discourses by learned per-
sons. There. do you understand? As a re-
The times., 1901-04-21
MISS KIMBALL's RECITAL.
A Delightful Concert at the Wash
ingtOn Club.

one of the most delightful concerts OF
the season was the piano recital given
Yesterday afternoon at the Washington
Club by Miss Mary Kimball, with the as
sistance of Mr.. Robert Stuart Pigott, a
welI-known New York baritone. In spite
of the inclement weather, large audi
ence was present.
Miss Kimball proved herself worthy the
hearty appreciation of a cultivated audi
ence. for her broad musical insight and
charm and grace of style stamp her the
true artist Her hearers were quite sur
rrised at her technique and grasp of the
instrument.
Mr. Pigott made a deep impression with
his excellent voice and artistic style, and
displayed great musical versatility, ap-
pearing on the programme in the capaci-
ties as singer composer and accompa-
MIST His two little Rose songs We're
charming, and his setting of Meredith 5
AUX Italiens was highly dramatic.
One of the most pleasant features OF
the concert was the novelty OF the pro
gramme i'm that II was not built on the
old conventional lines, but contained a
number of rarely heard and interesting
compositions.
The times., 1901-04-21
A LECTURE ON MUSIC.
The Third Of the Series Given by the
Columbian Women.

The third Of the series Of music lectures
given under the auspices of the Columbian
" omen, was delivered last night by Miss
Amy Leavitt. of this city, in the lecture
hall OF the Columbian university. Her sub
ject was The Orchestra; It's Uses and
Characteristics. Miss Leavitt is a teach
er Of music and understands thoroughly
the uses OF the various instruments that
compose an orchestra. She described each
instrument, explaining how and when 1t is
used. At the conclusion OF the lecture
refreshments were served in the western
study nall Of the university.
The Colombian Women is an organiza-
tion composed of graduates of the univer-
sty and the wives Of the members of the
faculty. It's purpose is 10 promote frater-
nal intercourse between the women who
claim Columbian their alma mater.
The series OF lectures on musical sub
jects will be brought to n close next week
by a lecture on THE American Composer
Mcdowell: His Works" by Mrs. w. l..
Benedict. which viii be almost entirely
instrumental
The times., 1901-04-21
THE RURAL FREE DELIVERY.
More Space Needed for the Maps and
Records on File.

Rural free delivery has grown to such
proportions as to require all sorts of de-
vices to keep it's records The rooms of
Chief Machen, superintendent of Free
Delivery, and Assistant Chief Clark are
full of maps and specifications submitted
by applicants for carrier delivery. OF late
a set of cases with long fat drawers has
been secured, in each of which are maps
of all the States and Territories with a
graphic representation of every route es-
tablished A map has been hung on
the wall with little flags to denote the
fifty or more inspectors and route agents,
so that those officers can be followed
about the country somewhat as the news
papers followed American ships about the
seas during the war with SPAIN
The times., 1901-04-21
Hoods Cdrs0pdriELd

Includes the concentrated values Of the
best known vegetable remedies, united
by such an original and peculiar com
bination. proportion, and process as TO
secure curative power peculiar to itself.
ms cures of mild and extreme cases of
scrofula. eczema, psoriasis, and every
kind and degree of humors, as well as
catarrh and Theumatism-proVe
The times., 1901-04-21
Hoods Jdrs0pdriiid

Has won success far beyopd the effect
of advertising only
The true secret of it's wonderful popu-
laritv is explained, entirely and only by
its unapproachable MERIT. "
neopIe considered incurable, which ac-
complished wonders astonishing to the
medical nrofesSiOn. -