The times., 1901-04-28
SHIRT WAIST WISDOM.
summer Fashions show New Effects
I'm Enhric md Cut

The new shirt waist this season is sim
ply fashioned almost to severity. The
long front is a distinguishing feature. and
the whole cut adapts it to the low bust,
straight front corset worn by all women
with any claim to modishness. The yoke
is as absolutely unknown as If it had
never appeared in polite society, and the
back is perfectly plain quite as often as
not. That is a matter that depends wholly
upon the style of the design, as the artist
in shirt waists carefully studies the re-
quirements of the pattern. Some stripes
admit of wide plaits or tucks in the back;
others lend themselves more genially to
groups of narrow plaits, while plaids per-
NIT either neither, or both, as the case
may be-
But under any and all circumstances the
front must fit smoothly over the shoul-
der, the only fullness permissible being
three or four plaits ulassed directly in
front, at each side of the fastening. The
sleeve is invariably the simple shirt
sleeve. with only sufficient fullness to en-
able the top to sit easily.
Among the thin goods the embroidered
Swiss muslins are notably popular and
specially new. The embroidery is in dots,
stripes, or designs, and the fabric is es-
sentially summery in appearance. Shar-
ing favor with these dainty garments are
those made of plain Swiss, made with in
SertiOns of lace and many tucks Some
have a bOlero outlined by the arrange
ment of the insertion, and others have
the lace set in" in diamond or iudented
effects In some cases there is an effective
combination of plain and embroidered
Swiss. Occasionally they are made to
button in the back, but in no other re-
spect do these dainty waists differ from
the palmer styles in make or finish.
f,r1fr .,r-xrT mot inc Ic mr.
sirable than the imported madras, and
merceriZed cheviots. These come in stun
ming color schemes. with the prettiest de-
signs possible. One is tempted to assert
that neither fabric was ever before so at
tractive and varied. The arrangement
of stripes frequently gives a Roman eI-
feet, and one may have combinations of
two or three delicate shades In narrow
lines or wider stripes of deeper tone, in
marvellous groupings of tints. Greens,
tans, blues, pinks, yenows and reds are
seen in bewldering profusion.
This summer is remarkable for the
abundance and beauty of the wash silk
waists, which are among the necessities
of a well-dresSed woman s wardrobe, de-
clares the Fashion News Bureau. The
stripes on white or colored ground are
popular as ever and in the prettiest eff
fects, while charming new designs are
shown Some striking patterns are sug-
gestive of Scotch ginghams and soft
plaids, and are modish in the extreme.
The now famous Rumchunda is one of
and has an originality and chic possessed
by no other silk that is really serviceable
as well as beautiful. The color schemes
are often of the most daring character,
yet always perfect in harmony, and one
can get Rumchuuda in quiet tones or bril-
liant, in soft or striking blendings, in light
or dark effect. The gay borderings are
adapted to the cut of the waist in such
a way as to bring out all their beauty and
accentuate the novelty of the design.
But the woman who insists upon va
riety does not need to restrict her shirt
waists TO the washable goods. Rich silks
are made in strict shirt style. with stun
ming effect. One of the most charming of
the new silks is crepe bengaline, which
has, as it's name suggests, the combined
characteristics of the two. The heavy
cording in the weave lends itself well
to the tailor fashion of the waist, and
the coIors are in the fashionable bon-ton
tints A canary yellow is peculiarly at
tractive in this silk.
Taffetas, too, In every possible style
are used in them. There are Persian and
/ Dresden designs, satin stripes. floral
sprays. and fancy hem stitching" Peau
de sole. Louisine, and many other silks
also prove their adaptability to the smart
waist shirt.