The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1901-10-05
FOR FEMININE READERS
AS AUTUMN COMES On THE SUBJECT
OF DRESS GROW IMPORTANT.
Housekeeping an Art which Requires
Much P~ractice-RuIe- for Hat Buy
ing-Various Hints.

Taking the place. with many women, OF
the Elton and boIero jackets which still,
however. hold favor among autumn modes
says a New York fashion writer, are the
blouse jackets with turn-down Napoleon
collar or one In Aiglon shape, Wit or with
out the skirt peplum, cut in circular form
or. the new Norfolk jacket made with
siIk-stitched, adjustable pleats that taper
from beneath the edges Of a shaped yoke,
To the waist. a narrow stitched belt de-
fines the slight dip at the front, and the
close sleeves are made with two seams.
Color as a rule is very artistically con-
sidered this season, and even from the
vivid red. gold and deep orange dyes, as
keynotes in both dress and millinery, many
novel and attractive variations are made.
All shades of red take a prominent place
among autumn and winter accessories, and
the vogue OF fine delicate gold trimmings is
equally the rage. The genuine royal red is
a brilliant scarlet, but with not a trace Of
"a brickish tint in 1t. 1t is more like the
glowing torch Of a sumac bush. There are
also the becoming ruby and famingo dyes;
and the Roman and Sanglier shades which
appear on fashionable gowns. evening
wraps and French millinery, and like the
deep-hued velvet petaled geranium and
nasturtium blossoms.
Some exceedingly attractive striped silk
and satin fabrics are brought out for din
ner, reception and opera gowns for the
present season. They are shown variously
IN black and rose color, in black and white,
mauve and white. black and nasturtium
red, opal gray and sea-shell pink, etc.
StrapptngS of velvet, black Chantilly lace
fOuncings and draperies, black net ruches
and ecru lace applique bands, are the dec
Oratfons most used for the trained gowns
made of these silks.
The pretty Paquin points turned over
small neckDandS were the beginning OF
mucn more elaborate things I'm the hands
or the French designers. Doucet has re-
cenJly been known To use two yards OF
lace In draping V~andykes outside of a
plain collar. The lace was ABOUT four
inches wide, but its full width was seen
only on the center of each side. 1t was
used in two pieces a yard In length, taper
Ing TO nothing at the ends, where they al
most met front and back. Fancy ruches OF
net and mousseline de sole are also on the
neck Of carriage and calling gowns; with
long scarfs of the same accO~rdian-pleated.
tied together very closely in places with
folds OF the net, and terminating at the
edges Of the very long ends in a bordering
OF narrow but thickIy ruched chiffon. This
forms a very effective and graceful finish
To a handsome gown, particularly If the
wearer Is tall and slender.
Many OF the tucked bOdices and fancy
waists are still made with the closing at
the center of the back. In silks and sheer
beautiful wool fabrics, some of these waists
have the front tucked on pointed yoke out
line, slightly bloused below, while a fan
shaped cluster OF graduated tucks is ar
range at each side of the center Of the
back. The cuffs of the bishop sleeves and
the stock collar are of brier-stitched silk.
the shade OF the waist. The belt is also of
silk, as one matching the bodice gives much
greater length to the appearance Of the
waist. especially at the back, than a belt
OF velvet, ribbon or leather of contrasting
color.
Dress skirts are modishly varied in form
and effect to correspond with the numerous
coat, jacket. basque, bodice. paletots and
~redingote style worn en- suite. There are
very graceful five-gored shapes with habit
back. in round, or demi-train lengths,
three-piece models I'm short sweep length.
with inverted box pleat at the back. and
finished with a very deep. circular ~fiounce,
and a half wide. Gored skirts with a grad
uated fiounce tucked at the top to fit the
gored portion which 1t joins, are imported,
and another style cut In three pieces has a
fiouncs very narrow at the bottom, both
front and back, but wide and high at each
side, and this is covered with fifteen very
small frills, which may be of silk or satin
pleated mousseline de sole. A hip-yOke Is
outlined by vertical tucks on the top OF a
five-gored skirt. An elegantly decorated
panel is applied 10 the front breadth, and at
the bottom OF the back and Sides, a finish
IS given. by narrow ruches OF silk or chif-
fon. Small ruffies or ruches, laid in rows
upon one large ~founce, are a highly favored
there are circular styles with double box
pleated backs, the 'front.' and sides elabor-
ated with snowy designs in silk passemen-
terie en- applique.