davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-03-03

WRITTEN FOR II SUNDAY REPUBLIC.
The flat togue with trimming punched
directly in front is not meant to be
worn with hair dressed in Madonna
bands. This toQuc to look well must be
put on the head just right, and the hair
must be full and fluffy about the face,
not exactly 4 pompadour arrangement,
but brushed back loosely.
One of these fiat toques if put on with
q tilt to one side or worn too far over
the face is decidedly rakish in effect.
If you are going to wear Il fiat toque
do place it on your head at the proper
angle.
The fat hats with wide rims are
meant to set back from the face. Ihey
are so trimmed that there is a hit Ut
the front. The hat that is lifted at the
side is designed to have a sidew1se I'LL.
If this is put on the head straight anu
square it is robbed Of much of its style.
There is an art in wearing a hat. You
have seen, 1 know, q woman unplh
from her hair in a milliner's shop q nat
that had not a suggestion Of style about
# when on her head, and another wom-
an picking it up might set it on her head
ot q proper angle and the hat would be
transformed, its air becoming really
quite iaunty, when a moment before 1t
appeared to be the most commonplace.
There are big choux on the newest
tooues and these take the form of flow
ers. They are made Of chiffon, lsse or
thin silk. White and black choux are
immensely smart. The white ones have
black centers and are stitched with
black. and the black ones have white
centers and white stitching. Many Of
the toques, in fact the majority OF them,
are made of %crinoline that permits OF
effective folds, and covered with thin
stuffs or woven network Of chenille.
There is n straw lace that is used In
making many of the loveliest toques
This spring. This in a deep yellow
tinst makes a very stylish hat when
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-03-03

ments was the table. The maid came~and
went so easily hat one was hardly con-
scious Of a maid at all. only realizing that
all the good things came IS If by magic.
Not a spoon ratified against a cup. and one
did not have to shift about in her chair -
make room for the white capped and
aproned young woman to remove the dishes.
And. because Of all this nicely of service.
the topic Of the servant girl came UP. 81.
1t was known to the other five women of
that little party as well as it was to the
sixth ne-sh whose guests the other five
were-that but one maid was kept in that
household.
The Youngest Of the number|the little
woman in an ashes-of-roses dress. who has
been a housekeeper for. only. q year@ven-
tured to ask after luncheon. How do you
do 1T"
The matron with the treasure Of a maid
said: 'oh, easily enough. You can train
any intelligent girl to work with system
and. consequently. with ease"
The other women listened ~attentiveiy.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-03-03

across seas, the woman who broils your
steak and sweeps your room has come. To
you she is nothing more than ''the girl"
Maybe there are times when she remembers
the little home SO far away and longs for it
once again. She was brave to cross the
waters all alone and come to a strange
land, where wages were to be earned.
She was prompted to do this that the
folks at home" might find life a more
cheerful and hopeful thing when she was
able to send them a few dollars every
month to pay the rent or buy clothes for
the younger children. To provide these
comforts for: the folks at home she must,
of necessity. practice much self-denial. +,
Down in the bottom of the heart Of even
the humblest woman there is a love Of
pretty t~hings-frocks that are rufffed and
beribboned and fit well. Nobody thinks to
find out from 1.-THE gir1'' what her hopes
and plans and disappointments or joys are.
From sun-up to sundown she must go blithe-
ly about her work: that she does or does
not is all that interests you.
Maybe sometimes "the girl in the kitch-
en- longs for the littleEtting-room in her
mothers home. n for the old mother who
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-03-03

knew so well how to make her comfortable
when she was not feeling well. Often. per-
haps, there comes a recollection of the Sun
days when. after church, the neighborhood
lads and lassies would walk home with her
and they would ave a merry time. She
recalls all this, maybe. when a prospective
employer asks of her, do you lave much
company" Very truthfully the prospective
hired girl None at all. I am
a stranger here" This reply does not ex-
cite any sympathy on the part Of the pros
pective mistress. She Is delighted at the
lonely situation Of the applicant for the
post Of domestic in her house.
A poorly heated and poorly lighted room
is not conducive to a good and cheerful
temper after a day Of hard work: neither
is an uncomfortable bed with scant covers
likely to bring about restful sleep-the sort
that fits one so well for the next days ex-
ertions. No recreation and no companion
ship is hardly the remedy for impatience.
Be sure that 'the girl in your service u
not enduring one or all Of these misfor-
tunes, ind you a already done much to
solve igS1s problem Of Domestic ssry5co-e
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-03-03

WRITTEN FOR n SUNDAY REPUBLIC.
They had not met to discuss the servant
g1rl question: or. to put 1t in its more lofty
form. the problem OF domestic service"
Indeed. 1t was quite by accident that the
topic was stumbled upon.
Il came about something after this wise:
They were six matrons, all housekeepers.
hot one Of them approving the now rather
popular way OF stunning housekeeping by
going to boarding, and they had met at the
home Of one Of the six for b quiet little
GIenten luncheon. There was not a faddist
among them. Had there been. there might
have appeared on the scene some genius
bf one sort or another to entertain them. in
D properly subdued Lenten way, to be sure,
but. nevertheless, entertain them. To tell
khe exact truth. the entire little bunch rep
resented women who would stand forth
prominently anywhere a. types Of good
housekeepers and lovabie homemakers.
The luncheon that was served vas delight
billy eeipty. and perfect In al It's appoint
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-03-03

I once had a peep into the bedchamber
Of this ~housekeeper's maids. AT the time
there were two, because the family was
larger than it Is low. In this room there
were two little iron beds, two small dress
ing tables and two wardrobes. There was
white mating on the floor and several
bright cotton rugs. There was a small ia
BILE on which there was a good, shaded
lamp. On the wall there was a set of book
shelves holding a number Of good and in
teresting books. The chairs were Of a very
comfortable sort. A neat and dainty enough
room. indeed. to please any woman, an at
~tractive room in which to spend an hour
reading. sewing or resting.
The woman who has solved the problem
of domestic service, or. rather, never found
any problem existing along this line, will
not. I know, ever take to the platform to
tell other women "how I did It" That her
light may shine abroad I have taken the
liberty OF giving away a little Of her secret.
Fropb . far-swsy home maybe trom
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-03-03

j., wear. The plateau hat" Of the present
hour suggests this old hat. Here we are
again at the extreme of flatness. For a
time, you know, we had the extreme of
height in our headgear. Presently, 1
haven't the least doubt, the fiat hat will
begin to curve around the face and we
; will be back to the scuttle-s shaped bon
net. This, of course, will be modelled to
suit the girl of the period, for, not being
as demure in pose rs the maid of long
ago. there will have to De a sort of dash
about her bonnet, but hen the fashion
Of occurrences may return with the
scuttle bonnet. Our name and our
clothes usually harmonize, or they
should.
To bark back to crinoline, nothing
startling In this line may be expected
before the fall. During the spring and
summer months the thinnest and softest
Of fabrics Will be made up to swirl and
cling and all that sort Of thing, but you
who dote on such effects had best make
the most of them, for the swirling and
clinglng Is at It's height, so far, and
heights for fashions are dangerous. The
fall comes quickly thereafter.
The crinoline that is limited, merely
limited, at, now mind you, will not X
tend all the way up to the waist, as in
the style here pictured. This is too
severe in outline to please the artistic
eye Of the modern dressmaker. You see
we have the flchu with us now, but 1t
is not the prim thing that it was long
ago. 1t is quite coquettish. 1 cannot
associate any sort Of coquettishness or
frivolity with crinoline, but l will trust
to the makers Of gowns to manage that.
In the old days Of crinoline the long
wasted effect was in vogue. We have
lowered our waistlines several inches in
the past year, and by the time our skirts
are ordered to flare immensely perhaps
we will be somewhat %reconciled to ap-
pearing like an h%ourglass in outline.
There are petticoats now in the process
of construction that are rufled up as
high as the knee. These ruffles are
corded and stand out very well. These
latest underskirts will be worn with
the first gowns that will be seen about
the close of summer.
MARIE ARMSTRONG.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-03-03

days 1 have never been without good help
ers in my household"
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-03-03

THE NEWEST HATS
AND THEIR ANGLES.
WRITTEN FOR THE SUNDAY REPUBLIC.

T.
The sun., 1901-10-09

store. Heretofore the older housekeepers
were in the habit Of ordering their sup
plies day before they were needed, but
now things are very different. for the
housekecper of the present day depends
npon the cook almost entirely, VINO, US
a rule, has Il very faulty memory, anu
sends the order either by telephone OF
messenger. to be delivered immediateiy,
expecting it in about ten or fifteen MN
utes.
"1he most difficult thing to do Is 10
cater to the taste of the public, esp ciaiiS
the American public. 1t is well estap-
lished fact that it is harder to please tiie
sense of taste than it is to p.ease the
sense of seeing or hearing. The taste
of the public is constantly changing anu
looking for something new and better,
and the American people are the most
critical on the face of the earth 10 sat
isfy. The finest goods that are produced
in the entire world come to America, anu
search is constantly being made by eX-
perts in this line in all parts of the globe
TO obtain the choicest goods, regardless
of price.
..Afte these delicacies have been pur-
chased and received in New York, the
distributing point of the United States,
they pass out of the hands of the dea ef'
and while they are the choicest qualities
of teas, coffees, etc, it is not reaiized
that it requires the greatest care to
properly prepare The article for the table,
Many times, by the sheer ignorance OF
the cooks the finest tea, coffee or some
choice morsc is spoiled before reaching
the table, and the goods are then con
demned, while, as a matter of fact, they
are the best that can be obtained in the
world"
The sun., 1901-10-09
THE NEW GROCERY.

Frank Tilford is probably one Of the
hest known men in the grocery line i'll
the United States, and his views on the
progress and present condition of the
trade are certainly entitled to careful
consideration. Mr.. 'rilford says:
"The rapid strides that have been made
in the grocery business in the past ten
years is something phenomenal. not only
in New York City. but in other cities
throughout the country, and the methods
of doing business have changed ma
teraliy. For instance, to-day all goods
are put up in packages with fancy col
orpd. attractive labels, which are very
effective in making piles and stacks, as
exhibited in many of the stores, the dis
play representing products from all parts
of the globe.
To-day every precaution must be taken
as to the sanitary arrangement OF re-
frigerators and cold storage receivers.
where perishable goods are kept ana
everything is done in u well-managed
store to present everything in a tempting
manner, to satisfy the most eXactins
taste. Whereas few years ago, instead
of ceiling being decorated, as in these
times, the entire ceiling was hung with
hams and sides of bacon, and the floor
covered either with sand or sawdust.
my experience in business teaches me
that the American public grows more ex-
acting year by year, not only wanting
better goods at lower prices, but what
they order they want delivered at once,
not realizing that it takes great many
customers to support large grocery
The sun., 1901-10-09

vessel. The well-known battleship ore
yon carries some seven and ope-haif
miles OF Pic m boiler coverings niaee
entirely o. i,i estos.
The company with which ! an con
nected turns out from five 10 seven miles
4 day of asbestos roofing. Their lIo-
inch paper machine is capable OF turn
ing out twenty tons of asbestos paper
per day. As a summary, it may be said
that wherever fire and heat are pres
ent, asbestos is in demand
Elmore bulletin. [volume] (Rocky Bar, Idaho) 1889-1906, 1901-06-20
Britain's Census statistics.

A preliminary census volume lust
issued gives the population of the five
largest cities of England, exclusive of
London, as follows: Liverpool, 6s4 ,957;
Manchester, 543, 800: Birmingham. 5es
1872; Leeds, 426, ,953; Sheffield, $50, ,7o7.
The total number of males in Eng
land and Wales is 10, III ,72s; of females,
l6,s04, ,347, men serving abroad in the
army, navy and merchont marine be-
ing excluded.
Seventy-seven per cent of the total
population is in the cities and % per
cent is in rural districts, as against
rs and 25 per cent respectively in
1891.
The population of Great Britain al
most doubled during the Victorian era.
but that of Ireland declined from 4. sol. =
900 in 1921 to 4,456, O0C in 1901. The
mean annual death rate has been
steadily declining since 1861. The birth
rate has declined with still greater
rapidity,
Elmore bulletin. [volume] (Rocky Bar, Idaho) 1889-1906, 1901-06-20

The war department has given out
statistics showing the extent of the
disintregration of the Filipino insur-
rection. The compilation of reports
covers the period up to April II, 1901.
Up to January /, 1901 the number of
insurgents captured or surrendered
was l,479, together with 5,0s4 rides,
SO field pieces, over 5000 shells and
balls, $40, 900 rounds of ammunition and
10 tons of powder.
From January to April II the num-
ber captured included PAT officers, 2,459
men; the number surrendered was $40
officers, 6,492 men, making total of
l.o67 officers, s.95l men; or a grand to-
tai up to that date Of 81, ,315 insurgents
captured. To this is to be added l, ,55s
rifles captured, 4,40O surrendered, a
total of 6,29s rifles; As, 900 rounds of
ammunition; 4os bolos and "a pieces Of
cannon.
Elmore bulletin. [volume] (Rocky Bar, Idaho) 1889-1906, 1901-06-20

While the United States transport
ingalls, was in the balance dry dock at
the Erie basin, South Brooklyn, Friday,
where she was about to undergo extern
sive repairs, she suddenly slipped from
the blocks and capsized One man is
known to have been killed and many
injured.
There were about 24O carpenters,
machinists and other laborers at work
on the vessel and dock at the time. 1t
is supposed that the vessel was thrown
from an even keel by ballast improp-
erly placed or by the shifting of the
blocks on which she rested causing
her to list to starboard, driving the
sheering beams through the rotten
walls Of the old floating dry dock in
which she was Graded. Besides the
mechanics and other workmen who
crowded the vessel and dock, pre-
pairing her for voyage to Manila,
about thirty Italian laborers are
supposed to have been in the hold of
the ship employed in shifting pig iron
ballast. 1t is feared many lives were
lost.
Elmore bulletin. [volume] (Rocky Bar, Idaho) 1889-1906, 1901-06-20
Missionaries Eaten hY .CannihAIs.

From Guinea news is received OF the
massacre of the Reverends James Chal-
mers and b. T. Tomplsins and fourteen
native teachers by cannials. The
whites were eaten. The scene OF the
cannioal orgie was seen by troops sent
out to investigate the massacre and
portion of jaw and thigh bones of
the missionaries were found, together
with their hats and portions of trons-
ers which belonged to Chalmers.
The expedition punished the natives,
destroying their villages and canoes.
some prisoners were taken during the
attack made by the natives on the
troops who told the awful tale of the
massacre and cannibalism.
Elmore bulletin. [volume] (Rocky Bar, Idaho) 1889-1906, 1901-06-20
Presidio Quartermaster Says all Govern
ment Goods are Supplied by
Volunteers,

Capt. A. W. Kimball, quartermaster,
U. 5. A., post quartermaster at the
Presidio, makes the following state
ment in regard to the alleged frauds
said to be perpetrated in the sale of
quartermaster's supplies belonging to
the government:
II am the officer most concerned in
TINS matter, yet no one has as vet made
any inquiry of me. l am the only
bonded officer al the post and the only
accountable and disbursing officer. If
there has been anything irregular
would be pleased to give all the assist
ance in my power in the search for the
guilty men if there are any. Ali the
government things sold in the paun.
shops are sold by discharged soldiers
from the returning volunteer rsgi-
ments"
Elmore bulletin. [volume] (Rocky Bar, Idaho) 1889-1906, 1901-06-20
GABLES WILL SURRENDER.
Murderous Filipino Chief Negotiates for
Peace With Americans.


Colonels Infant and Guivara, repre-
sentatives of General Cailles, the Fill
pino chief, have signed the name of
their principal to an agreement to sur
render. Under the terms of this agree
ment General Cailles is to assemble his
men at Santa Cruz, Laguna province,
as quick as possible and there surren-
der himself and his command to the
American authorities. The exact num-
Der of his men is uncertain, but there
will probably be more than 500.
For more than a year past General
Cailles has commanded the insurgent
forces operating on the east side of
Bay lake north af Manila. He is said
to be a French half-caste and during
the last revolution he has acquired a
reputation for vindictiveness and
cruelty. The society of Mandu-Cats,
whose practice it was to assassinate
and bury alive those of their country
men who accepted American SOW
ereignty whenever the latter fell into
their hands, operated with the cogni-
zance, if not the support, of General
Cailles, At one time Cailles offered
reward of $40 for the heads of all
Americans brought to him, and more
recently offered a reward of $780, 900 for
the head of Capt. Edward N. Jones,
Jr., of the Eighth infantry.
Cailles at one time declared himself
to be Aguinaldo's successor He and
General Malver are the only two
troublesome insurgent leaders remain
ing in Luzon.
Owing to his many fragrant VIOLA
tion Of the rules of civilized warfare,
the authorities have refused to condone
Cailless otfenses, and he must stand
trial when he surrenders.
Elmore bulletin. [volume] (Rocky Bar, Idaho) 1889-1906, 1901-06-20
Aguinaldo Hasa Successor.

Emelio ZurbaDo of Tabayas province
has proclaimed himself the successor
of Aguinaldo and governor of Ia
bayas and the Philippines" according
to copy of Manila paper just re.
ceiyed at the war department Emilio
is said to have been always a rather
have sworn to fight the Americans
down to the last bolo.
The publication does not take the
Filipino's announcement seriously, and
warns him that he will find that the
Office carries with it certain grave re-
sponsibilities, which will sooner or
later result in heart failure and sud
den demise.
Elmore bulletin. [volume] (Rocky Bar, Idaho) 1889-1906, 1901-06-20
Killed For Fifty Cents.

Two men fought for the possession
of fifty cents at atChieago Saturday, and
when the struggle was ended one was
dead and the other on his knees plead
ing with an infuriated mob to spare
his life. The timely arrival of the po-
lice prevented the lynching.
John Czech and Kazmir Kochan ski
mad disagreement over the value of
piece of old copper that one had
bought from the other. Angry words
led to blows. During the fight Czech
picked up the bent and battered barrel
of a rife, bringing it down on his ad-
versary's skull with such force that
Kochanski fell dead.
Elmore bulletin. [volume] (Rocky Bar, Idaho) 1889-1906, 1901-06-20
rransvaal Mines Must Fay Half of Boer
War Expenses.

The British government has decided
to levy $3.50, 600, 900 on the Transvaal
gold minesto pay half the cost OF the
war. Sir David Barbour. formerly
finance minister for India, who was
com missioned to report upon the tax
able capacity of these mines, advised
Colonial Secretary Chamberlin to levy
Sl75, 900, 900, but Mr.. Chamberlain after
consultation with Lord Milner in
creased the maximum in tile amount
stated.
Sir David Barbour reports in favor
OF 10 per cent tax on the profits of
the mines yielding on the basis of the
profits of 1898, e450, 900 yearly. After
paying this, Sir David Barbour con-
siders the mines will be better off than
before as they win save 5000, 900 per
year on dynamite, owing TO the aboli-
tion Of the monopoly in that commo-
dity.
Elmore bulletin. [volume] (Rocky Bar, Idaho) 1889-1906, 1901-06-20
ELWOOD MEAD HURT.
Irrigation Expert Has Arm Cut on by
Street Car In Washington.

Irrigation Expert Has Arm Cut on by
Street Car In Washington.
Hon. Elwood Mead, formerly state
engineer of Wyoming and now at the
head of the irrigrtion investigations of
the department OF agriculture, fell
under street car at Washington, ID
c., Wednesday afternoon, his right
arm being SO severely crushed that it
was amputated above the elbow.
Prof. Mead had held meeting with
the industrial commission, before
which he had been summoned to give
information relative to irrigation in
the west and other matters relating
thereto, and was on his way to his
hotel when the accident occurred.
Professor Mead is getting along
and will probably recover
Elmore bulletin. [volume] (Rocky Bar, Idaho) 1889-1906, 1901-06-20
American Coal MAY Invade France.

Consul-General Gowdy of Paris, in a
communication to the Department of
state, expresses the opining that Amer
lean coal can be advantageously
placed in competition with coal i'm
ported from other countries to France,
especially in view of the recent impo-
sition of the English export tax on that
product. The main obstacle in that
regard, he said, will be the high rates
of ocean transportation. II these could
be considerably reduced, Consul-Gen
eral Gowdy says, there is no doubt
that American coal would have great
future in France
Elmore bulletin. [volume] (Rocky Bar, Idaho) 1889-1906, 1901-06-20
Chinese VIII Endeavor to Effect Repeal of
Exclusion Law.

The Chinese in the United States are
preparing for an organized fight to
obtain the absolute repeal of the Geary
exclusion act at the coming session Of
Congress. The movement was started
in New York City last week, and it is
expected to spread rapidly to Phila-
delphia, Chicago, Portland, Seattle,
San Francisco and other cities having
large Chinese populations.
powerful organization has been
effected among the Chinese merchants.
Within the next two weeks active steps
will be taken toward bringing the mat
ter to the attention of the administra.
tion.