The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1901-09-18

But though thus scorned and pshaweo
by superior minds, food and feeding
form one of the eternals, says the Lon
don Standard. To all but an mini
tesimal portion of human kind the
necessity of food is the great origin
of human action. For food human
genius has achieved its greatest feats
in literature, art, aud racial progress
sion. Food and the means OF obtain.
ing it form the absorbing incessant
topic and aim of daily toll and scheme
of the whole world. 1t is but false
and hypocritical pride that disdains
the consideration of such an eternal
factor. Hunger, not moral principles
and high ideals, is the motive power
OF mankind.
Man made a great advance when he
began to eat at fixed times, instead of,
as hitherto, when he was hungry OF
had something to cot. The institu'
ton of meal times, as apart from the
mere demands of hunger, notified q
stability of society. It is curious to
note the alteration in the hours for
the principal meals. Dinner and sup:
per appear to have transcended all
other meals. The word ''breakfast''
as applied.to the morning food is not
known before the fifteenth century.
Until comparatively recent times 1t
appears to have been merely and lit.
orally a breaking OF the fast. That
dinner was emphatically the para
mount, if not only, meal OF the day, is
shown by the early hour at which it
was taken. In the fourteenth century
dinner was eaten at a. m. A rhyme
of the period bade man rise at five,
dine at nine: cat five in the evening
thou mayest sup, to bed at nine, and
thou shalt live to ninety and nine"
In the Northumberland House
Book" for 1912 it is set forth that the
family rose at 6 a. M, broke feast at
seven, dined at ten, and supped at
four in the afternoon. The gates were
all shut at nine, and further ingress
or egress refused. At Oxford, in
1870, it was usual to dine at eleven
o'clock and sup at five in the after
noon. All but the highest classes
took their meals somewhat earlier.
Louis XIV. of France postponed din
ner to two o'clock, and this time was
retained until the Revolution, when E
D. m. became the dinner hour. About
the same time dinner in Germany,
which had hitherto been eaten at
twelve, was carried forward into the
afternoon. In England Horace Wal
pole complained of the late practice OF
dining at p. m., which, he grum-
bled, meant the evening could not be-
gin to be spent until ten. But the
progress of the dinner hour has been
continuous, and the meal, which was
once served as early as 10 a. M, is
now, in some circles, served nearly
twelve hours later. With the gradual
recession of dinner and its usurpation
Of the place of supper, breakfast has
become solid meal, and luncheon
and tea institutions. Tie latter is no
doubt responsible for the postpone
ment of dinner to so late an hour.
In character, as we'll as in time,
m eals have undergone complete trans
formation. Dinner was always the
great meal of the day, and as sumptu-
Gus and extravagant as possible. So
lavish did the feasts become that IN
The reign of Edward III. an act was
passed prohibiting more than two
courses being served at dinner or
supper, except Oh certain holidays.
The curious may note that this law
has never been repealed, and re-
mains on the statute book to this day.
Carving was then q fine art, and the
manner in which a gentleman helped
himself with his dagger from the Joint
Or bird proffered by q page gained
him "no mean respect" The absence
of forks led to much stress being laid
upon the washing of hands before and
after meals, and to the rule that the
left hand alone should be dipped IN
the common dish, the right hand be-
ing occupied with the knife. Small
forks were not introduced into use
until the seventeenth century, and
then guests provided their own.
Pepys took his spoon and fork with
him to the Lord Mayors banquet in
1868.
The dinner of the best period OF
English cookery consisted OF three
courses, each complete in itself, and
finished off with dish of subtle de-
vice. Here is a menu of fifteenth
century dinner, which for variety,
not to mention solidity, a modern
chef would find hard to beat: Baked
nallard, teals roasted with sauce of
,lmouds and butter boiled in milk.
Roasted capon served with syrup of
honey and pears we'll beaten.
Roasted leg of calf, boiled herons,
sucking pig, seethed and baked, set
about in gilt and a citron in his
mouth. Flesh tart with sauce of
1uince. Second course: Roasted
hedgehog with jelly OF pears. Venl-
son we'll baked, with many apples.
Almond and white wine padding.
Boars flesh in soft pudding. Two
cranes with the gravy Of young kid.
Partridge and curlew with sauce Of
good syrup. Third course: A pen
cock, roasted with grease OF pigs
chops, set out covered with its skin
and feathers, many onions under
meath him. Pears baked in syrup.
Custard OF cream and the eggs OF
hens. Wine sauce with mint and
.ansy we'll mixed. Also some small
birds of all kinds laid in good wine. "
After these dishes-in which 1t may