The National tribune. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1877-1917, 1901-09-12
By W. W. STONE.


ough entered the land-locked little harbo
of Vile Franche.
We had had n very stormy, disagree
able passage all the way down the coas
from Cherbourg. Leaving the Englisl
Channel, we encountered violent gale il
the Bay of Biscay that followed us spite
fully, like a hungry wolf, almost into tn
Franco-ftalian port.
Commodore Steadman lost his gig il
the storm. 1t was torn from its davit'
as easily as if it had been cut away will
an AK.
One of our eight-inch Columbiads was
wrenched from its lashings and came
we'll nigh being precipitated over the mair
hatch cOmbings into the main hold. Had
this happened we should have had hole
in the bottom of the frigate and 4 watery
fight for life.
No wonder, therefore, that after this
experience, as we dropped anchor in the
peaceful bay, and looked restfully out
over the ships side into the crystal depths
of the indigO-dyed waters, and breathed
the fower-scented breeze that stole softly
from the neighboring shores, all felt as
if we had succeeded in reaching Para
disc
Orange trees grew in clusters on the
hill slopes at our beam, the golden yellow
fruit peeping gaily out from its framing
of vivid green. On the more distant noun
tain-side quaint little cottages nestled here
and there among clumpS of olive, banana,
cocoanut and lemon trees.
In this land of perpetual Spring Ma
ture gets sadly mixed in the order of her
seasons. Here you see at one and the
same time the fragrant flower, the pert
little bud, and the full rich, yellow fruit,
all housed in the same tree like large
family of growing children.
Around us lay some of the ships of the
European Squadron. The "Ticonderoga,"
the "Canandaigua, the Shamrock" the
"Frolic'' and the "Swatara." The last
named was at that time an object of es-
pecial interest TO us, as well as to Amer
lean tourists generally, for the reason that
John A. Surratt was on board.
He had fled from Washington after the
assassination of President Lincoln, but
had been arrested and handed over to our
Admiral by the Egyptian Government.
Surratt was subsequently taken to Wash
ington by the 'Swatara" and tried, but
owing, possibly, to calmer public senti-
ment than existed at the trial of his less
fortunate mother, he was not proven
guilty of completely in the awful tragedy
of April, 1865.
We lay in the harbor of Vile Franche
for about a month. During that time
there was no danger of stagnation to the
officers of the crew of the Colorado.
Across a billy neck of land some five
miles to the west of US lay the City of
Nice.
Nice is the Winter resort of kings and
princes, lords and Indies, scholars and dill
letanti, all fleeing from wintry homes to
Summer breezes and sunny skies.
1t was a part of my duty as Ships
Writer of the Colorado to send out period
ically a boatlOad of nattily-dressed blue
jackets, on liberty. All over the country,
therefore, between Vile Franche and
Nice, knots of Yankee sailor-men could be
hourly seen, frolicking like so many boys
just let loose from school, or perchance
seated soiemnly with folded arms and
naughty air in a big barouche driving
like lords over the road, evidently intent
on sustaining the dignity of American
sovereigns.
Our officers found the air of Nice very
healthful and stimulating. Nor was there
lack of good, congenial society. At the
Hotel Royal there were American Cen
erals, Judges, Doctors and Professors. On
the Promenade des Anglais" every ar
ternoon could be seen beyy of laughing,
chattering, piquant American girls, who
led our Lieutenants merry dance.
On the broad promenade one sunshiny
afternoon / met Gen. Mcclellan, attired
in trim suit Of gray, gazing musingly
out upon the sparkling waters of the Med
iterraDean. / had made the acquaintance
OF the General at my uncles house il
Brooklyn, and now enjoyed a stroll with
him on the sandy beach, he the while
making friendly criticisms on little
book. THE Signs of the Times" which
had published at Galignani's in
Paris a short time before. ! have always
felt grateful to the General for the spirit
in which this was done. On board of the
Frisate criticism was more pointed.
William Cullen Bryant was there, quiet
and unassuming, looking benevoIentIy
down upon his merry young country
women. or watching with student eye the
laborS Of the hardy fishermen as they
drew their well-laden boats up on the
sandy beach.
Ex-Secretary of the Navy John P. Ken
nedy could often be seen discussing grave
questions of state with Admiral Colds
borough. Mr.. Kennedy's conversation was
much clearer than his chirography.
During his sojourn at Nice he wrote out
q paper for our Admiral. The article was,
for publication in Paris. When the man
uscript came under the eye of the Ad-
miral, in his cabin, he turned it upside
down, and down-side up, but could make
nothing Of it. He sent it to his clerk,
Mr.. Rowland, to copy. From him it went
TO Orderly Wheeler, and then down TO
the wardroOm. 1t was returned in de-
spair. 1t was set down as a wretched
imitation Of writings found, short time |
before, on a crumbling mummy in the |
Pyramids. Fleet paymaster John S. Gun
brought the document TO me with |
corrugated brow. By the aid of much
midnight oil l deciphered the document.
1t proved to be a genealogical statement
and gave a very interesting account of
the Admirals family origin, dating away
back TO the time of the landing of the
conquering William.
Among the bellies who dotted the prom
enade was q young Californian. / had
seen her before When / first met her she
was a slight, barefooted girl in Nevada
City, daughter of the janitress of the
old schoolhOuse on the hill back of Ian
casters Hotel, on Main Street. At that
time the girl was freckled-faced. DISNEY
eled as 10 hair with well-tanned skin,
and slight cast in a pair of defiant
eyes. Her dress had always been of the
plainest description. Since then she had
married miner. Her husband had made
big strike on the Comstock. and Mistress
ella had been schooled. and trained, and
refined" until now she stood a fine sam
pie Of young American womanhood.
Among the numerous American tourists
IN Nice ut this time were Mr.. and Mrs
Theodore Bronson, of Philadelphia. The
young couple were doing Italy on an ex-
tended honeymoon. While at Nice Mrs
Bronson presented her delighted husband
with bouncing baby boy.
Great was the rejoicing in the Bronson