Freeland tribune. (Freeland, Pa.) 1888-1921, 1901-04-29
LESS MOURNING WORN.
4 MARKED CHANGE IN THE GUS
TOM HERE IN RECENT YEARS.

The Lavish Use of Crepo Abandoned
More Freedom of Choice in the " idow's
fttre - Mourning Garb of the Men
Mistakes Made About servants.
There have been many changes in
the styles of mourning in the last
10 years. In America, mourning is
certainly growing lighter. 1t is less
worn, and less Of it is worn. America
never did accept the ironclad French
rules OF mourning observances. In
France, everything from the length
Of the veil to the number of buttons
on the gloves is fixed. The exact
length of time for each observance is
laid down and a veil is shortened, a
handkerchief border narrowed, or the
engraving en- a visiting card changed
by schedule. Individuality doesn't
cut any figure, and departure from
precedent is a scandal
The English things are different.
The English go into black upon the
slightest provocatiou, but they wear
it very short time and exercise a
certain degree of individual taste in
such matters. They may mourn
their dead friends and relatives as
sincerely as the French do. but they
wear their rule with a difference. Per-
has the inconsiderate fashion in which
members of the English royal family
have always insisted upon dying
during the season has hardened
English society to popping into black
and out of it with apparent i'm
perturbability.
American customs in mourning have
followed the English lead, and the in
dividual here has always, to great
degree, consulted his own inclination
in the matter of mourning clothes and
etiquette. Still some general rules
have obtained. and it is undoubtedly
true that these general rules
have been steadily modified and that
they tend toward greater freedom of
action and less ostentation in mourn
ing attire.
The lavish use of crepe which was
the great feature of mourning in
earlier days has been completely put
aside. Crepe, in small quantities, is
still used for trimming gowns for
first mourning: and the famous dress
makers, whose word is law in matters
of taste. contended that a widows
first mourning should always have
touch of crepe, but in mourning for
any relative save husband crepe
is not essential, and even a widow
rarely wears a crepe yell today.
The old fashioned crepe veil,
against which physicians for so long
raved in vain, has been put aside in
favor of the light weight veil of nuns
yelling, and even that veil is never
worn over the face. as was formerly
the custom. The Widows ruche of
white in the bonnet is also discarded,
which is rather a pity, from an
aesthetic viewpoint. Many materials,
never until recently considered suit
able for mourning, are now admitted,
and lustreless black silk is worn in
first mourning, though nuns yelling,
cashmere, Henrietta cloth and such
materials are more popular. Uncut
velvet, too, has come to the front.
superseding crepe in many instances
as a trimming for even the deepest
mourning.
Occasionally whole gowns of crepe
are still seen, and New York's most
fashionable dressmakers included two
gowns fashioned entirely of crepe at
$12 a yard. These gowns were in
sisted upon by the customer and the
dressmaker stoutly protested against
them, declaring that, though expen-
sive, they were not the mode Another
wealthy mourner ordered last winter
from one of the leading fur houses
of the city a large cloak of heavy
crepe, reaching to the floor and lined
throughout with dark fur. The furrier
tore his hair and invoked the gods
in protest, but SUCH a cloak the custo-
mer would have and such cloak was
made for her. the price was $500.
Such mourning fads are the excep-
ton, and the desire of the average
woman who is obliged to wear mourn
ing is to have it as simple and incon-
spicuous as is consistent with good
material and cut. If the wearing of
mourning is desirable at all woman
should at least be altruist enough,
even in her grief, to select becoming
black. A good deal of criticism has
been expended upon the woman who
shows an interest in the selection of
her mourning outfit, but self-respect
and certain consideration for the
living ought to have a place even in
a great sorrow. 1t is a question, too
whether the tightening of mourning
and the dispensing with the show of
grief which moralists have been at
tributing to the increasing callous-
ness of our social life isn't, after all,
a symptom of altruism as promising
as college sentements and domestic
science clubs. A rational idea seems
to be developing that discourages the
forcing of private grief upon public
notice, and demands the subordina-
tion of selfish impulses toward open
mourning to the cheerfulness and
happiness of the living.
The wearing Of mourning black by
children was nnVC,r. praVa1pnt in