The Portland daily press., 1901-02-16

that one becomes acquainted with ths
country and the peopies
On anchoring in the charming harDor
of odda the ships' boats were lowered
the tourists all disembarked and we be-
held shs first array OF stoikjaeres ready
for two hours drive. These are two
wheeled vehicles with seat for two, and
q small one behind for the driver who
lets the rains fall bstween the passen-
gers. This turnout Ia unique In the ex-
treme. the harness being just sum nient
to hold the little pony In the thils. while
the rsins are often only pieces Of rope,
the whole equipage outside OF the pony
not being worth more than ten dollars;
but the motion Of the carriage Is very
easy. These Norwegian ponies are some
times very handsome, surs footed
child, attends the Girls Grammar School,
and 10 bright and apt pupil.
and dooile, though seemingly devoid OF
early training; for they either scarcely
move at all or go down the hills at Keen
gallon. when the driver wished them to
stop he cries "B-r-r-." Stoddard tells
the story OF the mad escspade, when be
tried to stop the pony By grabbing the
reins, saying "Whoa," and exhaustipg
all tne usual devices OF stopping horse;
but the pony went on more and more
Wildly until, when finally he made the
driver understand that he wished the
pony to stop, the litter simply said the
magic word ''B.r-r and the little animal
came INSTANTLY to a standstiIl, almost
throwing him over the dashboard. When
meerng foot passenger the driver gives
q shriIl cry, ana the pedestrian is obliged
to get out OF the way quickly, cr he Will
be run over. The roads In Norway are
for the most part so narrow that when
msatlng another carriage it is necessary
for the drivers and passengers to aiight
and set one OF the carriages In the ditch
while the other passes It
Our destination that morning was the
Lotefos Falls which are among the finest
in Norway, formed BIZ the union OF two
into one stupendous body OF water, white,
opposite, the Esrelandfos descsnds like q
veil over the face Of the mountain. In
visiting this fall one passes the Burbrse
glacier, an arm Of the Foigefond, one OF
the largest plateaus OF snow In Norway.
Out among thess wondrols lakes, tails
and glaciers, Wa found people who spoke
English perfectly. and even the school
children understood 1t, saying that they
had learned 1t at Odda.
The Hardanger Fjord is celebrated fer
its odd costumes, the married women
wearing a curious headgear Of white lin
en-, while the maiuens have only the or
rament OF their hair; but the bride SUP
ports a real crown, sometimes of gilt,
with elaborate ornamentation, and whsn
there Is not such an heirloom In the fam
lily, the sexton of the viilags church has
| them TO let. The costume OF the won }
is dark skirt, silver-braided, large,
embroidered apron. and shoes with silver
| buckles, and red stockings. A white
blouse with wide sleeves and red bead
ed, embroidered bodice completes the out
! tit, and renders the Hardanger maiden
most gorgeous object to bshcid.
In the Hardsnger Fjord we Waited
Nordheimssund, a small village enciroled
and completely shut in By mountains,
tipped with glaciers. This 10 one of the
most fertile spots In Norway. The cot
tages are like N3w England farmhouses
and the barns similar to those seen In
Maine before the mania for magnificent
structures overshadowing ths houses
| The hay crop was being cut and cured by
putting 1t up on forms like fences, and ii
is no DOUBT this well preserved hay which
is responsible for the remarkable beauty
OF the Norwegian pony. That Afternoon
we visited another waterfall, AMI stopped
on our return to witness church service
In a little chapel not far from the wharf
| for all that Is nee led to form o village IL
3 Norway Is a few houses round church
r The religion Of Norway lie highly Protest
, ant, and In these rural PLACES their wor
( ship seems much like that Of the Quaker
= In early times. The women, with thei
white kerchisfs as headgear, sit apar
from the men, as Is usual on the cont
nent, both in deyout attitude, Will
being entertained by the preacher with
discourse on their shortcomings. d
our way We passed woodhouses adjacer
TO the dwellings,, filled to bursting, d'
noting that the winter In this section
one of considerable severity. and also thi
1t is q wooded locality, but in some part
peat is the only available combustibl
material.
The late twilight here lasted until aboi
eleven O'Clock, following beautiful sui
set; and one by one psopls had vacats
their little doorways on the slope to Il
left, retiring for the night without oil
twinkle OF artificial light Appearing
their cottages, "tired natures sweet +
storer" visiting thsir eyelids before q
last glimmer of daylight had faded,
IL faded at all. No scene is recalled mo
vividly than the memories or this beaut
full spot. This ship was alive ith mus
and dancing, while in the harbor the
were many row boats passing back al
forth, the dininutive pilots hoping, pt
haps, to attract soma one OF our numb'
who might wish TO row In the twilig