The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1901-12-15
DAY in A MOORISH HAREM
VANISHING OF POETIC GLAMOUR BE-
FORE a VISION OF THE REAL.
An American Impressed by the Form
Iessness and UgIincss OF the
Women of Morocco.


crowded with ugly creatures from the
harems, who are envelOped to the eyes in
sackcloth and coarse cotton. They seem
defOrmed and hunchbacked with babies
and bundles strapped between their shout
ders, and among them are toothless hays
who hobble by, a corner of their rags
caught in their mouths. They congregate
In the sokos, or market places, where they
appear as devoid Of form or individuality
as so many haystacks. They all wear the
same kind Of huge sunbonnet. which is so
broad that the brim has to be suspended
from the crown by cords radiating like ths
spokes Of a parti-colored wheel The cir
cles of shadow cast by these hats are al
most the only dark spots on the dazzling
pavement, where white grain is being
measured out and glistening fish weighed.
Even on market days, during the sharpest
bargainings. the face veil is not removed.
We decided that 1t is affected to show off
their blackened eyelids and hide their other
features, which it would not be worth
while to try TO beautify.
If their great eyes are expressionlesS II
must be remembered that they have only
the dark side of life on which to gaze.
These women are debarred from all cheer
Ing enlightenment or elevated action; but
they are spared no imputatiOn of fragrant
vice. Furthermore. their natural protectors
do not shield them from exposure to crime
with its penalty of imprisonment far worse
than death. This fact was clear TO US when
we visited the public buildings in several
towns, where the women were strictly eX-
cluded from the mosques. but thrown into
prison for the smallest as well as the worst
offenses.
We had ridden forty miles on muleback
from Tangier to Tetuan to visit several
harems and study the condition of those
prisons in which so much interest Is now
felt. So We FASTENED to be charitable to the
convicts, hoping to be rewarded by an in
vitation to the palace. Fortunately, the
soldier detailed to accompany US on the
entire journey ranked as caid, or chief.
He therefore had entree to the Pasha, and
we were enabled to follow the custom OF
feeding the prlSOnerS-a requltal or MS nos
pitality which is expected-instead of Civ
ing bakshish when inside the harem. With
out delay We ordered twenty-five lOaveS OF
black bread to be brought to us, where we
waited near that dread prison threshold
AT that time there were nearly three hun
dred men and women confined in that pes
tiferous hole for divers accusations, muir
der in particular. In spite of the bribery
which the corrupt guards are prone to ac-
cept, eX-mnister Of the Sultan was
crashing his teeth by the side Of the basest
thief; As neither food nor even water is
supplied to the prisoners. many starve if
their friends prove neglectful.
NO SECRETS IN PRISON HOUSE.
Loaded down With the bread that arrived
hot from the oven in wheelbarrows, and at
first unable to see in the dark after passing
from the light outside, we entered the
guardroom. Lurking in the corners and
| suspended from the beams in the shadows
above were the most diabolical machines
| OF torture, like those in Spanish fortress,
though in Morocco frequent use prevents
them from gathering rust or. cobwebs.
kicking away stack of long taper-bar-
| relied guns, the guards pulled out a divan
with mOldy rugs thrown over it, to bring
me on level with the aperture which
looked into the common dungeon. This cav
| ernous inclosure was alive with human
| forms and vermin, am gave forth an over
towering stencil. In - 'der to receive the
leaves. broken in halves. which L squeezed
| through the grating, the wretches dragged
| themselves up in their clanking chains, as
| fast as their feet-irons would allow. These
| impediments were made Of single iron
| bar with the ends curved round and chat
| ing both ankles. Seeming food and stretch
ing up their arms to snatch 1T, these be-
| ings, with their ashy, sunken faces, seemed
| to peer at me from the lower world.
From the shades of the prison house"
| We at length passed out into the glazing
| sunshine. to hear a case tried by a court
composed of a body of keen-eyed patri-
archs, who were seated at one side of the
| thoroughfare. The young offender under
arrest was led away to Imprisonment just
| our invitation came to visit the Pasha
| In his palace across the street.
The principal gate in the high wall of
| the Tetuan Palace was swung open, and
| we were uSneIeO through the court, W1ere
| every week the state escort forms for a
| dress parade. Beyond the farthest arch,
| under a pOrticO of lace-like arabesques, the
| Pasha arose on his knees to shake hands
| with us. then sank down crOss-legged on a
| sumptuous indigo rug. There happened to
| be a wealthy Jew transacting business
with him, who kindly interpreted the
| Arabic into Spanish, which our courier put
| into English. The Pasha's secretary sat
near at hand.
| THE POTENTATE WITH HOLES IN
HIS SOCKS.
The potentate himself held in his lap an
absurd little box desk. His form, his smile,
and his pink and white silk robes were all
| very ample; in fact, he appeared affable
| enough, as he thrust his fingers in and out
! of the holes in his socks, which his two
| dozen wives were too busy doing nothing
| to mend. He soon summoned a tattooed
| slave whom 1 followed through a winding
passage into a large patio. or court a
| spacious area flooded with light. The or
| ange trees and Towering shrubs were
| watered by a fountain built of decorative
| figured tiles.
The women. in glittering. gauzy robes,
passed round and about the colonnades.
| They soon drew nearer and lowered about
me in a changing group, as If they We're
| butterflies attracted by some strange
| thistle. With an exaggerated motion Of
their hips in walking, they Shambled for
ward to shake hands with me- Some ex-
tended the left arm to show off to better
advantage their tawdry rings and brace
| lets, also their fingernails. stained with red
henna. Several of the younger wives. prob
ably not more than fourteen years old,
were really handsome, with olive complex
ions and deep, dusky eyes. Across their
brOws they bound a ribbon to hold a sill
yer charm, and just below that was a blue
tattoo-mark, with another like it on the
chin.
The degree Of fairness these ladies attain
is a mark Of beauty and brings favor. In
order TO increase the effect OF obesity new
dresses are put on over old ones. The waist
is girdled with broad belt, stiff with en-
| brOidery. The finishing touch, which de-
terminates the taste of the wearer, is a fig
Ured stuff draped from the back over the
shoulders. to be clasped both sides in
| front by enormous brooches. This leaves
the neck and chest bare. 10 be adorned in
their turn by numerous necklaces, many
times twisted.
THE MERRY WIVES OF TETUAN.
When the general review was over a
shrewd-loOking. pock-marked woman drew
me down oeside her. Not to be left out,
the other wives proceeded TO discover how
my collar and belt came off, and what sort
or fancy work stitch kept on ny boots
The several articles in my pocket puzzled
them much. 1 feared at one moment lest
they would try 70 rub off the blue OF my
eyes; they appropriated my shell pins and
called on me TO explain why my hair hap
pened to be blonde. one OF them. over
proud with an ancient watch made Of brass
thought was not worth treating as a per-
son OF property after she had pulled off
my gloves as If she were sxinning me and
found no rings Then ~ fpSpepfed NV hot