The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1901-09-08

each year we are more than trlfle tired
of summer wardrobes and anxious to dis
guise the familiar aspects of our gowns
in any way that fashion will permit
There is something very monotonous in
the same gown or set of gowns day aft
er day for a whole season. Very few of
US are sufficiently individual to impress
our friends with our brilliancy or origI-
nality under such unfavorable circum-
stances. One of the most successful de-
vices for making an Old frock look new
is to apply to it one of the charming
accessories in the shape of a deep fancy
collar, a handsome bolero, a graceful
ceinture on a becoming sleeve trimming.
For the benefit of those who have
frocks in need of refurbishing let me
mention a few of the devices employed
with success at the moment in Paris.
One of these is a handsome bolero made
of alternate bands of ribbon velvet and
lace insertion. Each band terminates In
q point so that the edges of the jacket
have the appearance of being scalloped
The elbow sleeves fave back to shape {
narrow cuff, stiffened to stand firmly
over the sleeve.
A vest to wear with a coat and skirt
costume is made from remnant or
brocade. The vest, pointed in front ana
finished with a habit back is a very
striking affair. 1t buttons over the lefi,
a line of jeweled buttons holding 1t snug
and neat about the figure. Deep revers
frame the V shape opening at the neck,
behind which the snowy tie or cher1i-
settle is to be seen.
Also for wear with a jacket, if need
he, are the high belts of silk. One oI
this sort is FIVE or six inches deep, and
If one had not been told that it was
called a belt the probability is he CO she
would have classified its as a smart vest.
Black mousseline taffeta is the fabric
used in the making of this decoration,
which is rounded below and cut in cor
selet shape above. A bow of black taf
feta in front comes just above the four
1iligree gilt buttons that mark out a
square on its surface.
A very dressy vest may be copied from
one sent out with a fancy tailor made
frock by one of the great shops of the
Avenue de POpera. This was of Tine
white chiffon draped only from the places
where side seams come on a blouse. The
mousseline was caught into a fluffy bow
below a pointed guimpe of lace. A high
belt formed by a sash OF silver tissue
was caught up at the left by a paste
buckle.
a suitable collar for an afternoon frock
may be made of tucked white glace
trimmed along the edge with oval appli-
cations of handsome lace. There, is moth
ing novel in the shape of the collar. 1t
is simply one of those round sailors to
which sWeEhave been accustomed Tor
some time. AT the front bow of silk
and a buckle of cut steel keep it neatly
closed.
When an evening gown has been worn
half a dozen times, the owner casts about
for some way to modify It's appearance,
lest women more fortunate in the extent
of their wardrobe comment on the !nev-
liability Of it's temperance at every oc-
casion. The lace bertha is an embelllSh-
ment which even an amateur may add
to her gown. A simple one of soft lace
may be draped over the shoulders with
pretty buckles and caught up again with
buckles in the center of the front and
back In addition to the clasp in the
front, a bow of black velvet ribbon Is
often knotted, the bow being the appar-
ent termination of a band of black vel
vet which extends about the neck and Is
studded with tiny paste buttons.
Another handsome novelty is the bow
of chine silk muslin bordered with hem
stitched edgings of fine white muslin. A
pretty way of making the bows Is to use
one large knot for the breast and a
smaller one for the side of the waist, a
band of the muslin edged chine being
draped from bow to bow.
1t is little more difficult for the anna
teur to successfully deal with sleeves.
There are some small variations in the
appearance of these that anyone can
manage. For instance, a plain one with
an inset lingerie sleeve Is not hard to
finish. The underaTm seam is opened half
way to the elbow, the edges neatly turned
under and stitched. One way of decorat-
ing the edges is to apply rows of small
buttons. a neat band cuff at the wrist
made of the same stuff as the sleeve
will serve as the foundation upon which
the muslin for the undersleeve rs gath
cred. Tc secure the latter in place stitch
it nearly to the lining of the oversleeve,
using fine silk thread and taking care
that the stitches do not show through
the material. For a plain jacket sleeve,
part of an outdoor costume a stiff cuff
of the military order garnished with
three bright buttons from which hangs
loops OF silk braid will give very hand
some finish.
A bit Of lace drapcd loosely inside a
wide sleeve gives a charming effect, SO,
too, does lace-edged chiffon.
Redfern demonstrated a very pretty
way of making up the now popular
linen. The corselet skirt of a model
ecru gown was trimmed with bands of
mauve embroidery, brought around the
waist and down the front to outline \
tunic. The little boIero was bordered
y,
jacket, which was rounded off in front
to give an ample view of the soft lace
blouse.
Gray is to be worn for autumn A
hint of what the fall fashions will be
was embodied in a very fetching gown
of silver gray cloth to be worn by a
lady who is making early preparations
for a round of autumn house parties
A deep f1ounce of chenille dotted taffeta
formed the only trimming of the skirt.
On the founee appeared deep appli-
qued 1rises, the veining Of the leaves
outlined in jewels and the edges hand
somely embroidered. The blouse of
chenille dotted taffeta was also en-
broidered, the sleeves showing slight
the undersleeve had a cuff formed by
shlrrlng, while the portion of the sleeve
above the cuff had a full puff that
spread below into a graceful frill.
Embroidered linen and ponlpadour
louisine made another handsome model
frock, the work of the artistic Maison
Laferriere. Jeweled clasps on the cor
sage held in place a striking arrange
ment of the embroidered bertha
Beautiful effects in what are CALLED
autumn leaf shades attract great atten-
ton. l am told in the shops where they
are most exploited that these colors
VIII nave the preference for fail wear
They are rich and SOFT and look well on
almost all women. AppHqued trimmings
OF SIX in carefully elaborated patterns
are the favorite decoration for cloth
costumes
Stockings in all hues of the rainbow
are to be seen on pretty ankles. The
Iate ruling that hose must match the
frock needs to be a trif1e modified as
little of the footwear Is of one color.
For instance. electric blue and black or
cherry and black will be combined in
for sheer hosiery of the overwork sort
has happily been corrected, and al
though the stockings are dazzling in
color and often elaborate in pattern.
they are usually SenSibIY thick Plo 81,