New-York tribune., 1901-07-28
PICTURESQUE TOILETS.
ARTISTIC PARIS CREATIONS FOR THE
SHORE OR MOUNTAINs-ONE OF COM
TEsSE DE CASTELLANE'S GOWNS.

Paris, July l9.
The simple and picturesque capeline which the
Frenchwoman wears at the shore and in the coun-
try is essentially article de Paris. The prett-
est this summer Of sheer white linen lawn,
with soft. pufned crowns inset with Nalenciennes
stripes. The pleatings lace inset but are hem
stitched on their edges. and there is little nest
OF lace rues inside. \ twist of pale blue taffeta
ribbon ties about the crown. with bow the
front. bunch of cherries Is often tucked inside
Sometimes the scarf is itself OF lawn trimmed with
Nalencennes which lace is black or ochre as often
white.
Another form Of capeline IS built of a loosely
braided green straw. which resembles reeds or
rushes. garland OF cherries poppes OF black
and yellow daisies, IS its only trimming. In shape II
has a low soft crushed crown and brirn that turns
downward slightly In careless. irregular curves. A
similar shape is made Of fine threads of yellow
straw woven loosely, with white satin straw rib
bons. This has a garland Of yellow and white
marguerites. Its bTim, though wide and Topping.
casts broken lights upon the face. instead of a
single shadow, in a way that is rather charming.
More elaborate hats for casino being
worn with deep lace wells that fulled like
a hounce, the drawing string tied about the crown
The edge os the hounce touches the chin. This
veil is let TO flow rs it viii. the front ii IS
lifted up over the brim, which may flop" or be
caught up a little crclet OF roses. A great
many hats draped with lace which has ends
behind that the low coil Of hair the nape.
CHERRIES AS ORNAMENTS.
The decorative part played by cherries in the
summer wardrobe is considerable. They painted
or embroidered upon duck pique yachting suits
clever embroidery OF padded mousseline cherries
consisting Of a garland OF fruit and blossoms. is
pretty a white silk sunshade. a cluster OF
cherries against the low coils OF hair in the nape
of the neck makes attractive evening coffure
especially if the frock be a white silk muslin. with
d floating sash Of tender leaf green liberty gauze.
Linen rivals pique this season--a thick. glossy.
silky linen, which may be made up esabcrately with
nach Cluny lace, or may be OF the tailored style.
ASharming example is Of white linen trimmed with
pxae blue batiste in the form of a narrow creme
lated band upon the hem and up each side Of the
front the little square tabs being elongated here in
order 10 meet and fasten together the centre Of
the front breadth with blue enamel buttons rlmmed
in gold. This treatment continues the throat
that on the bodice. the tabs fasten soft
OF white moussene. A wide shoulder collar Is
boroered with crenelated band Of blue and fastens
with blue batiste cravat with embroidered black
polka dots massed on its pointed ends. The sleeve
is a much pouching bishop An accompanying hat
may be Watteau Of the saucer variety, set di-
rectly on top Of the head and trimmed with quill
ling OF blue satin ribbon about the low, round
and with wreath OF yellow marguerites against the
hair under the upward rolling brim. Nothing could
better complete this costume than a sunshade of
white linen. perforated in daisy heads and lined
with pale yellow.
Applique pastilles favorite trimming, pale
blue ones in linen for instance a frock of white
batste. They are about the size OF 10-cent piece,
and are arranged in vertical rows between groups
OF batiste tucks. On the foot of the gown there
are three narrow shaped rufies, the middle one OF
blue linen. and triple collar repeats this arrange
ment about the shoulders.
A rather new arrangement Of the fulness at the
back Of tailored skirt of linen or duck IS to con-
fine the plaits with not one. but four five
straps the lowest at the knees, and OF course,
longer than the just below the waistband. They
are cut from the side breadths. and are edged with
sGtchings which continue along the edge OF the
breadths thus making quite distinct the inside
pleatings, that spread into fanlike as soon as
they have liberty. Each tab IS fastened with but
ton and buttonhOle. smart Jacket accompanying
snch skirt has rather long basque. which is laid
IN single deep inward turning peat the back
Ihe Sleeves are close, but have dropping and
deep lace wrist rules. Louis XIII collar of lace
and an embroidered pompadour figured waistcoat
or linen add TO the character OF the gown.
THE CHOKERLEss BODICE
The chokerless bodice of many Of the summer
toilets for afternoon calls for some neck
trimming. OF course there is always the pearl dog