davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-10-19
The Long Coats.

Wraps have completely changed in
style, and, excepting as steamer cloak
or in some fussy shape for evening
wear, the cape is rarely seen. The loose
sack coats of three-quarter depth are
very fashionable, and younger wearers
have made the short full sack bolero
very popular, as these are extremely
becoming to a tall, slight figure.
The full coat wraps, which have usu-
ally large sleeves and can be worn
over any bodice or blouse, are slipped
on and off quite as readily as a cape.
They are certainly more protective and
less troublesome in windy weather.
Soft wooden textures are used for these
wraps, also alpaca and mohair and
smooth faced cloth, and the trimmings
consist of silk or velvet applique, braid
ings, stitched straps and coarse lace
and braid.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-10-19
An Effective Autumn Gown.

A fall gown is effective made of he
liotrope frieze, with bands of black or
dark heliotrope velvet. The founce is
put on the skirt with a band of velvet,
and scalloped strappings of glace silk
outline the frieze on either side. The
Elton coat is bordered with velvet, and
the cloth is scalloped and stitched down
to it.
The wide collar is made in the same
fashion, and the sleeves are of velvet
to the elbow, with the upper part of the
cloth. The coat can be worn open or
closed, and the sleeveless vests should
be varied in color.
A very dainty gown is of blue serge.
the plain skirt being of stitched plaits,
which are of graduated depth and quite
short at the back.
The bodice is made in bolero fashion,
with a simulated puffed shirt of light
blue foulard spotted with black. The
collar and chemisette are of the fou-
lard, as also are the dropping under
sleeves. This model may be copied in
many other combinations, such as
deep purplish frieze, with heliotrope
glace spotted with black, or a black
costume with turquoise spotted faille or
vieux rose and black glace.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-10-19

or embroidery Stems are usually en-
broidered, and the applied flowers are
constructed of the thin material The
applications are made, of course. upon
the sides of hats or upon fat brims,
where their beauty will not be lost.
Fashion sanctions tabs innumerable
They may be applied anywhere upon a
costume, and to be smart must be an
excuse for superimposed trimming. The
most intricate use to which I have seen
them put was upon a frock of gray blue
prepared at one of the Rue de la Paix
esta blishments for a young society de-
moiselle. The coat fairly bristled with
tabs. Two of them held the jacket
fronts together over the blouse of white
silk, two more started back from the
silk at the point. where revers are usu-
ally laid, while two descended under
meath the wide band of white silk that
served as a girdle and suggested a
basque. Each tab bore a startling
black velvet diamond carefully stitched
to the cloth. The skirt, cut plain, was
encircled with two rows of tabs, outlin-
ing the headings for shaped f1ounces.
Each of the small tabs was adorned
with one of the diamond shaped pieces
of velvet and was set far enough from
its neighbors to permit view of white
silk underneath. The collar of cloth
showed row of black velvet diamonds
and the rather full sleeves disclosed
one at each wrist. Pulled undersleeves
of white silk completed the toilet, which
was altogether an extremely odd yet
pretty creation.
Russian blouses are scheduled for an
other burst of popularity. This is due
to the vogue of everything Russian
consequent upon the late imperial visit.
Amateur photography bids fair to be-
come another society fad. While in
France the czarina was seldom seen.
save at some indoor function, without
her little camera in hand. She photo
graphed everybody and everything of
note, august personages posing for her
with the pleased embarrassment of the
small boy who is having his first por-
trait taken.
CATHERINE TALBOT.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-10-19

Servants should be instructed not to
poke fire while cooking is going on
They often think that a redhot fire is
necessary to thoroughly heat the ovens.
Such fire may dry up the juices of the
meat or vegetables until they are hard
and indigestible.
Coal dust is very useful if nodded
into fireballs. They will keep up the
fire at night or at times when little
heat is required. If there is a small
boy in the family, the promise of a
dime will secure his enthusiastic CO.
operation in the manufacture of the
balls. To prepare them take two parts
of coal dust, four parts of sand and
three parts of clay. Mix the ingredi-
ents and shape into oval Jumps, which
should be dried before fire. The balls
must be placed on the surface when the
fire is clear. There they will smolder
for hours. When a brilliant fire is
wanted, the balls must be broken up
and coal added.
Those who use gas ranges have no
need to consider any of the above econ
omies. In many households the coal
range is preferred for heating purposes,
gas being too expensive for that. A
San Francisco inventor claims to have
perfected a new cooking apparatus
which will make use of the rays of the
sun for cooking. OF course on sunny
days those who use it need have no
misgivings, but the appearance of fog
gy weather or a dark, cloudy day must
be reckoned with. Few families will
be willing to fast because the sun does
not shine, and when the sun peeps out
only in a half hearted way underdone
food can scarcely be avoided.
In the next century it is predicted
that all cooking and heating will be
done by electricity. What an adj
vance from the open fireplace on which
the housewives of a century ago did
their cooking!
EDITH LAWRENCE.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-10-19


e looking about for neat and
fashionable coats. Fortunate
" for myself, ordered mine
from madame some time ago.
leaving it to her taste TO Sc
lect for me what she thought would be
both smart and becoming and yet
adapted for utility wear in accordance
with the necessities of woman In
moderate circumstances. The coat was
sent home yesterday 1t is a dehcate
shade of brown, cut straight IN 'front.'
as are almost all the winter coatS-
scarcely an exception to this rule can
be found-yet by a cleverly adjusted
strap across the back of the waist the
coat is fitted behind close to the ngure-
A deep triple shoulder collar covers the
upper part of the waist In front the
coat is double breasted, buttonlng at
the left. Triple collars are 1avorlte
device in trimming and help to break
the monOtonous outline OF the long
wraps When l tried on the garment, l
was glad that 1 had not revoked my
order, as I had been tempted to do
couple of weeks ago, when at another
tailor'S / looked at fetching mo1el
coat veritable beauty-what is known
as a driving coat The wrap was made
of black faced CLOTH The back was mt
ted into box plaits below a stltcneo
yoke The collar and square revers,
which may either be worn open or
crossed and fastened, were faced with
pale blue cloth embroidered with mar
row black and gold braid Whlle an
extremely striking coat, the pale blue
would not have harmonized with some
of my costumes. Not so the brown,
which is in good taste with almost any
tint or shade. Thus must they reason
whom the gods have lowered with little
gold.
My golf cape 1 found so useful last
winter that I have had it made over in
accordance with this seasons peculiari-
ties For instance, to manage one or
the deep hoods which are all the rage
the tailor had to cut out the upper part
of the cape so that he could turn the
cloth to bring the plaid upon the out
side. A high, turned over collar or
cloth encircleS the neck, and tabs of the
plain tweed brought down each side
from the collar form the starting points
for the hood. Three buttons further
embellish the front. This cloak of
dark tweed is one of the most useful
wraps own
l have further improved my wardrobe
by the purchase of tailor made frock,
which, 1 am assured, includes all the
new points of the up to date gown.
Beaver faced cloth IS the fabric used,
vest and collar contrasting with glis-
tening folds of plated silk The front
of the bodice is to all intents a blouse
with a bOlero. little in front of the
back seams the lines of the bolero
slope, and it falls below the waist,
where the cloth spreads out to form one
set of the double box plaits, constitut-
ing the back OF the skirt The result is
a most graceful sweep which in the
rear is a trifle longer than usual All
the seams are strapped and stitched.
Its sleeves are very pretty too. The
cloth is slashed almost to the elbow to
show the full silk sleeves of the blouse.
These openings in the cloth are modi-
fed by the use of crossed bands of mar
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-10-19

At a well served dinner it is quite
usual to find dainty blossoms floating
in ones finger bowl This is a fashion
borrowed from Japan.
The Japanese have a charming facil-
ity for artistic decoration, and they
have designed really delightful now
city for placing in finger bowls. Flow
ers alone are charming, but evidently
they think they may be improved upon,
for they use ingeniously prepared little
blocks of wood, which on coming in
contact with the water expand and de-
velop into quantity formed and colored
blossoms.
During the course of the meal it is in
teresting to watch the bits of wood
gradually expanding into buds and
blossoms Of course the national flow
er, the chrysanthemum, is the favorite.
We cannot rival the ingenuity of the
Japanese, but nothing can be nicer for
the finger bowl than two or three vio-
lets floating on the water, and lemon
verbena and scented geranium are also
much appreciated for the purpose be-
cause of their delicious perfume.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-10-19
HOW TO E(oNonIzE FUEL
o@oeo@o@o@o@o@ o@o@o@o@o@o@o

WHIT W EADS of families in moderate
circumstances anticipate fall
and winter with a feeling
akin to horror. This is large
Iy due to the increase in
household expenses due to the
extravaganza use of fuel. Half the coai
burned in American families is wasted
wasted usually because the average
housewife possessed of a servant thinks
it beneath her dignity to consider any
thing connected with the kitchen Queen
wiIhelmina of Holland, the German
empress. the dowager empress of Rus
STA, the queen of England and her
daughters, the empress of Russia and
the crown princess of Sweden are ex-
perts in every branch of domestic econ
omy and, should necessity require it,
could make fires as deity they keep
them in order when in their playtimes
they delight their intimates with ma
tional dishes made by their own royal
hands. If the first ladies of Europe
make themselves mistresses of kitchen
lore. no mere republican, whether she
is the wife of a trust king or laboring
man, has any occasion to turn up her
nose at the suggestion should her lords
comfort and peace of mind be improved
by her attention to the possibilities of
the kllcn0n RANGE
Whether or not the housekeeper is
called upon to manipulate the range is
not a really important question. She
should understand its management and
know enough about it's qualities to as
sure herself that it is a good one.
When servants are backward with the
work. when the cooking is not what it
should be, maids are too apt to blame
the fire for their shortcomings, but if
the mistress can step down to the kitch-
en- and discover whether or not the
range is at fault her servants will re-
spect her, and it will be money in her
purse. Careless and ignorant servants
needlessly increase the coal bills With
a little care half ton of coal may be
made to go as far as a ton does under
ordinary circumstances In a close
range cind ers and coal dust mixed
make good fuel. Vegetable refuse,
dried. which burns readily, may be uti
uzed in starting fire.
An important part of the manage
ment of a stove or range is the manipu-
lation of the drafts The openings
which conduct the smoke from the fire.
box to the chimney are so small that
they will likely become blocked unless
they are cleaned out every week. Once
they are filled UP, there is not sufficient
draft to enable the fire to burn. The
SCOT should be removed when the fire is
lighted in the morning. As cleaning the
range is an operation that stirs up con-
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-10-19

the same effect is accomplished on sim
pier skirts by the use of tndented
flounces, with their narrowest part In
the center of the front. Such f1ounces
are framed with ornamental bands of
guipure, embroidery or something of
that sort
While sleeves continue to display an
under and an upper section, the under
sleeve is no longer necessarily of soft,
carefully draped material. As often as
not it is composed of the same stuff as
the rest of the frock. The sleeve is
very frequently double, in some cases
even triple, and flares considerably at
the elbow, where some sort of decOra-
ton is attempted, if nothing more than
a band of velvet, a bit of lace or an ad-
justed bow of handsome velvet ribbon
Many more women ride in Paris than
was the custom few years ago. AS a
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-10-19
TOPEKA STATE JOURNAL. EVENING,

erately long and of a lighter weight of
cloth than the coat.
Another style of habit has semifit-
ting coat with corners rounded off and
Tapped seams.
The profusion in which velvet flowers
are now used on millinery is a pleasant
change from the overloaded chapeaux
of last fall, weighed down as they were
by the corpses of birds. The brightness
of the flowers delights the eye, and in
the charming combinations in which
they appear upon hats they must con-
tinue to be popular. Some of the
shapes adopted for hats and toques
seem a trif1e startling. What is known
as the boat shaped hat is capable of
taking on any number of grotesque out
lines A recently exhibited horror was
of white felt, very high at the side and
slashed open to show the sapphire vel
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-10-19

frocks sent out from certain shops and
may be counted upon to grow to the
proportions of a fad since the orna-
ments are not often very expensive and
do much to smarter a costume
Buttons are often used to ornament
seams down the front of the skirts,
which have of late taken on quite an
ornamental character, the seams some
times being strapped, sometimes stitch
ed and now and then embroidered or
marked by a line of heavy lace. On the
skirt of a tailored frock sent out by the
maison from which mine emanated the
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-10-19

vet with which it was overlaid. The
effect upon the head was that of
worthy peasant carrying home a bundle
of clothes which she had laundered.
Flatness in millinery is one of the eff
fects now striven for Double plateaus
are to be much worn, as also are some
of the daring little tricorns which
achieved success last winter.
Velvet and fur hats, together with
the spreading picture ones, added to
those before mentioned, afford a wide
assortment for selection. Fur toques
following the marQuise pattern are most
picturesque. Lace and velvet or chiffon
flowers are used in their construction.
Quite a novel trimming is made of ap-
p1iqued flowers of silk muslin, chiffon
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-10-19

siderable CRIME, the head of the cleaner
and the front of her dress should be
covered The implements to be used in
cleaning are two-one brush, the other
an iron scraper, consisting of a rod
about three feet long fiattened at one
end, with the compressed part at right
angles to the main body of the rod.
The brush has a round, bristly head
and a handle of twisted wire.
The hampers should be taken out
when the stove is cleaned and black
loaded. This will insure their moving
easily The fiue brush should be insert
ed through the various openings in the
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-10-19
Removing right RinE..

Pass strong thread between the FIN
ger and ring with the help of a needle
and leave one end hanging in the direc-
ton of the wrist. Take the other end
and wind it tightly and evenly toward
the tip of the finger. Now hold the
loose end of the thread and unwind it
upward. BY this means the ring win
gradually be worked off the finger.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-10-19
POPULAR pARIs1AN MODES OF THE MoMENr.

result more attention is bestowed on
riding habits. The latest costume of
that sort consists of double breasted,
tight fitting coat, with little basque
in front and the swallow tailed effect
behind. In front the coat is cut open
Just enough to show the stock and is
ornamented with vulcanite buttons, on
which the monogram of the rider is ap-
piled in silver. The skirt is only mod
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-10-19

Lace is still largely used for trimming
purposes, but the coarse Arab type is
preferred for wooden textures, though
it also figures on linen gowns. Jeweled
lace is not to be solely for the rich, as
it is now shown with good imitation
gems, and these, discreetly employed
and not too 1avishly, are really effective
on a handsome gown.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-10-19

ton. Over a white silk vest, the blouse
was cut out to form a point, embroid-
cred in lines of silk. The usual triple
collar finished off the bodice, two sec
lions of the collar being of cloth, with
the topmost and smallest one of velvet
Many gowns are made with pointed
overskirts reaching a little below the
knees. Very full understands or plated
f1ounces supplement the points. Much
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-10-19

Coal lasts longer if kept in a well
ventilated cellar. In a closed cellar it
gives off a gas which may circulate
through the house and prove injurious.
An outdoor coalhouse is the best recep-
tacle for coal. but it is too inconvenient
to be generally popular. 1t does not in
jure coal to get wet-in fact, it simply
causes it to burn a little slower and
therefore last longer. Coke, coal and
cinders mixed make a good and cheap
fire.
tits a mistake to keep up a small fire
by adding now and then little coal
Much less fuel will be burned if a guam
tity is put on at once and then beaten
down with the poker
To build the fire in the morning the
wood should have been well dried the
night before. A few cinders and partly
burned Goals from the fire of the pre-
vious day should form the first layer in
the firebox. Over that paper may be
arranged. Then sticks of wood should
be placed in semiupright position, to
permit the free circulation of air. Oil
should never be added to promote com
bustion. A few Jumps of sugar placed
among the Goals is a harmless although
rather expensive aid. A few Goals and
some coke are then scattered over the
wood. and the fire is ready to light
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-10-19

omy is the daily sitting of ashes Many
Goals and cinders may thus be saved
Cinders are good fuel, but most house
keepers do not seem to realize this.
The best sitter is a covered cylinder
with handles 1t contains a wire bas-
ket, into which ashes are poured. When
the cover is put on the basket and the
handles are turned. the ashes fall
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-10-19

into the cylinder and the cinders re-
main in the basket. After they are
taken out of the sitter the cinders
should be dampened. This will make
them burn better.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-10-19

unique device was adopted of cutting
the cloth along the center seam in tiny
scallops, each stitched down and gar
niShed with a tiny cut silver button.
Above the deep velvet ceinture upon
this costume three more scallops ap-
peared, each smartened by a tiny but
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-10-19

boiler is likely to become incrusted with
minerals. A few clean oyster shells
dropped in the boiler will keep it clean.
In regulating the supply of fuel one
of the first requirements to assure econ
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-10-19
THE LATEST STYLE IN
SHOOTING COSTUMES.

Very sportswomanly and effective IS
the shooting dress of green heather
tweed herewith illustrated The wide
plaits in which the conveniently short
skirt is arranged find place also in the
front of the bodice, affording a sugges-
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-10-19

row black velvet held down by tiny
metal buttons. The only touch of fri
volity is the gauzy bow of lace and silk
muslin which is held in place by jew
eIed clasp of no great value. The use
of rich buttons and jeweled ornaments
is beginning to characterize the best
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-10-19

take on an Objectionable taste, caused
by the burning of splashings from
meat, vegetables and fruit that become
attached to the iron. A small tin OF
water placed in the oven while roast
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-10-19

ing is going on will assist that process.
Most ranges have self filing boilers
In case they do not the water must be
poured into the reSere cir at least twice
a day IT Is Eood plan to replace
promptly any water that is taken out
If hard water is used. the inside of the
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-10-19

sides and back of the stove when the
passages are made free of SCOT. Damp
ers must be closed to prevent the SCOT
from flying up the chimney while the
brushing is going on. The ovens should
receive careful attention and be cleaned
thoroughly. or food cooked in them will
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-10-19

ton of the Norfolk blouse. These
plaits, however, finish at the waist with
a narrow band of drab leather, match
ing the square collar and revers, which
are of mastic cloth. The inner vest is
of white pique with plain linen collar.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-10-19

If pudding is properly boiled, it will
cut with a knife as well as any cake
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-10-19

COLLARED CALF'S HEAD.-This is a dish
that should be prepared day in advance OF its
use. Secure from your butcher prepared calfs
head take away the brains and put it into boiling
water blanch. Wash thoroughly, put it into
cold water and boil until the bones can be slipped
out of the meat. When the head is boned, lay it
fat a table, sprinkle over it alternate layers
of chopped parsley, grated nutmeg chopped ham,
pepper and salt; then roll the head in cloth,
tic it tightly possible and boil very slowly
for two and half hours Take 1t up, drain, put
it under a weight and do not remove the cloth
and bindings till next day. Then the
cloth, wipe off any superhuous fat with cloth
dipped into hot water and garnish with aspie
jelly, chopped hard boiled egg, etc.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-10-19

PLUM SALAD--Cut some ripe plums into
slices and place them a dish, then sprinkle
them very sparingly with powdered sugar. Put
two tablespoonfuls of salad oil into small basin
and stir in by degrees, using a wooden spoon.
quarter of pint Of vim ordinaire and teaspoon
full Of lemon juice. Pour it over the fruit and
leave it ice for half an hour. Arrange the
sliced plums white china salad leaf and gar
nish the edge of the dish with little sprays OF
chervil. This salad is excellent sith game OF
fr1z
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-10-19

IRIS, Oct. 5.-All Paris is now
looking about for neat and
fashionable coats. Fortunate
ly for myself, ordered mine
from madame some time ago.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-10-19

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