The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1901-12-08
TELLS OR THE ART OP'DlAING.
AZ INTI-STEAK LECTURE By
A HEAD WAITER.
Few People Know How 60 Opde . Dinner.
Tie Complains -They VIII Bat Turkey.
TOO. Negiecting the Deicacics IN Sea-
on-rh Headwaiter . ale Counsellor

TOO, Neglecting the Deicacics IN Sea-
son-The Headwaitcr = Safe Counsellor
.very few people really know how TO
,rder A dinner" said a head waiter who
b,a become famous by the choice menus
which he selects for the patrons Of the
fashionable dining room over which he pre-
,jles. And then. how many there are who.
not knowing what TO choose. will neglect
o. got the advice of the waiter who knows
exactly what the kicthen holds that is
especially good on that particular occasion.
For kitchens have their secrets, and
one Of the oldest chefs In New York used
~ have a telephone al his desk connecting
Inn with tho dining room. through which
he impaired valuable information to the
waiter ordering for some special party.
N is when entertaining guests that the
average maj is most in doubt. He knows
what he wishes himself. bat no naturally
prorrrs to consult the tastes of his guests.
Invariably h. founders; they hold back
their preferences and frequently one viii
sae a whole party gratefully coming TO tho
eliminating choice OF steak, steak, always
steak. with all tho finest fish and game
chooso from. II is pi,iful!
"Of course, the man who knows does not
do this. He has learned that the safest
nan il % consult with the head waiter.
If he has been busy with his stocks or
his bonds or his Office affairs all day he has
~ had much time TO dwell on the dainty
foods tina, are in market. The American
man who has not lived abroad rather dis
dnlns this nicely of culinary knowledge.
But even when he knows and gives any
though, 10 tho matter. IL he be wise he still
ascer'sins what may be in the iarder in
It's CORRECTION; uo.o lot
steak has grown 10 he the despair Of those
who have gradually watched the CASTRO
romic progress of the nation. But steak
still remains the one thing needful 10 thou
sands Of American diners three hundred
and sixty.fve nights in the year,
And ten to one they have had IL for
breakfast also, Yes, II IL a fact. We
grr to know the poculiarities of the appe-
tics Of people and not, in n place like this.
Of the working class, hut of the man who
can afford 20 pay for what he wants.
But they will come 20 places famed
for their game. their French and Italian
dishes that have been praised by kings
aid after going carefully over the card
they will look UP smllinglv and say IA nice
steak and see hat IL IL not too rare And
f"w Of our thoroughly accomplished French
chefs ara AZ their best IN hroiliug a steak.
1T il this lack of culinary knowledge
a. 10 sclcction that makes our foreign
tables d'hote so popular that most Of the
head waters in town are anticipating
going into the business when they have
Sufficient capital.
Every night these restaurants are Gro wded
% the door with groups of diners who
lave the troublesome question Of what
they are to eat answered Tor them by a
hnl of fare already chosen. And they
90 through il nanfully from start To- fin
i-h. sighting nothing, often unaware of
What the dish may be-, concealed beneath
,he sauce which covers il.
THE gastronomic eduCation Of the Amer
team l. still sadly nj fault in many particu-
lars. But the man who orders without
consulting the head waiter IL quite sure
To- come 10 grief.
.rhe head waiter has 70 assimilate all
the perception 81 the gourmet with the
conservatism Of the artist. And a. a rule
rh" Americans who have become famous
FOR knowing what to eat have learned II
from their waters.
They hay" fetn chided gently az the
club for their over-fondness for steak
aud gradually they have been rescued
rom the blindness Of steak eating TO a
comprehension Of better things Once
you can wrPn n man from the hid hound
addition that steak is the one thing that
man ran live 10y you can hope to get him
ont Of the abysmal error of f~ancying
turkey an cpicurean dish.
Bet the American knows his beefs,oalt
and he knows his turkey. He -wcar-
Nv il and IL Won venture Ia Suggest the
superiority Of the wild turkey to this other
tame mOnstroaity ho looks at YOU with
troubled eyes.
ne understands turkey a. he has grow
TO know and Ia love Il He never realizes
f. nLSurditv It's absolute grotesqueu,ss
~ never CRATES on him. T. took the
keen perception Of an Irishman 10 see
the humor Of the turkey A. a food when
De declared Ii II q quar-" burrd Too
iruch for one and not enough fDr two
OF course ] know u sounds like a saCri-
leg" % attack the turkey. bit u II over.
rated. spr''aculaT. rather Than OF real
rpIrITrau value. Children like j. aud
~ they grow up II remains q surt uf child
hood ideal. that they nv - warm into
life at Christmas and Thanksgiving
Tue turhcy IL surrounded With "a halo
a attendant dishes IN thssa Occasions,
tfTNed with Oys'efr or chest nuts and va
vui-hip II ~ though IL wer- a morsel
rare ~ ph"sl~lnis i"ngIe, when IN feaitN
10 .H" cinI,-l bird lu iu- tame state that
,.' came 10 f. table too often
Alrn wa consider how America hH-
tI..fIoru 90 aT william fiH lac tea - ni.
i-HH vaar- docs % uoI seem pdu thai mIr'
uINHIo' 10 un' made iu gt-ftIrInliD u,l'
t.f-' lakr fh' turni-ning and h"u-'
,rHrra'..u uf tNrriy Nru- agY AMI u1u.
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