Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1901-02-09
Observation-Disclosures
SPECIAL Correspondence,

Special Correspondence,
January Malaga is not much to
look at, whether approached by lana or
sea lis houses Of montonous color ana
contour all gays and yelloWS' one
topped by an enormous cathedral OF
bright red sandstone, sweep around a
deep bay Of the Mediterranean, guarded
by antique forts and dominated by
lofty hill crowned by a Moorish citadel
But II Ia an important commercial city
of 10000 souls, the head'center OF the
worlds ralsln industry and one Of the
most famous winterlng places In Europe
for nvallds and conyalescents. Landing
at Malaga Is q work of time ana
strength, OF patience and ceremony
Soon after sunrise your steamer drops
anchor a mile from shore for no appar-
ent reason but TO increase the port
charges. for next morning you see her
with nose close 20 the landing place
After n tedious time OF waiting, IN
which everybody's convenience but the
messengers seems 20 be consulted, sew
eral gorgeously canopled boats, flying
the royal flag come out, bringing uni
formed officials. These pompous gem
tlemen spend a lelsurely hour or TWO
roll. calling examining your tongues
and your luggage and breakfastlng at
the Captains expense; after Whlch
their gracious permission II given to 20
ashore. Meanwhile mighty fleet OF
boats has been collecting round ABOUT
boats OF all descriptions yachts, feluc-
cas-. row boats, lighters, chicken-coop
AFFAIRS like those Of Havana harbor ana
other unnamable floating creations
which, according to Scripture, It would
be no Gin TO worshlp-their owners
bawlIng In very
BABEL OF TONGUES,
with all the energy and determination
OF hack. drivers at the Jersey City ferry
Boat hire, like everything else here, Is
very extortionate-at the least nifty
cents, one way for each person and the
same for every smallest package not
carried in the hand-and Just as muchi
more as the boatmen can wiring out OF
you. But as you must get over that
intervening stretch OF water somehow,
the only way Is 10 make an iron-clad
bargain before hand and keep nrm
grip upon your temper To lose 1t would
be a sad mistake, for you VIII need IL
many times in Malaga. Thus the day
Is well advanced before your feet NJ
last touch terra flrma. Your belongings
are dumped on the ground In the open
street; and there you walt IN sun or
shower. the convenience OF more GUS
toms officials, several Of whom are wan
-. nj an
your dIscomforture. You wait an hour,
maybe two hours, with nothing to SIT
upon-not daring TO go away and leave
your luggage to the mercy Of the popu--
lace. and not permitted 20 take II, until
the omnipotence Of the government
having been sufficiently manifested, the
master Of customs saunters up, cool ana
dlgnined, accompanied by two uni
formed assistants, all smoking cigar
cites. The master bestows upon you
one long searching stare, II satisfied
that you look honest, he makes some
marks with white chalk upon each OF
your packages, without opening any OF
them and you are at liberty to take
them and 20. But woe betide the luck
less traveller with whose facial express
sion he IL not pleased! He signs to his
assistants, who fall upon the baggage
WITH FIENDIsH GLEE,
tumbling immaculate raiment out into
the dust and exposing carefully
secrets of the toilet to the gaze OF the
rabble,
Malaga Is by all odds the most Angll-
cited city In Spain-and perhaps that
is the reason why II Is also the dearest.
At any rate prices here are nearly
double those of northern towns, with
really nothing to show for the
difference. There are great many
inns, Of varying degrees Of badness
Probably you choose the famous Gran
Hotel de Ia Roma" which Is the most
splendid and expenslve-and about the
most comfOrtless. 1t Is kept by
wealthy company, which also owns
great show place inns In Madrid and
Grenada. AT all seasons crowded with
lnvalids, tourists and raisin-merchants,
at this time OF year II Is literally
packed; and IN II you hear good deal
less Of the Spanish language than any
other OF Europe. At first you marvel
that the place IL so much resorted TO by
the ailing. for fierce sorOccO Is blow
ing--a dry, hot wind straight over from
African deserts, which causes extreme
lassitude. The climate II undoubtedly
good for persons with delicate lungs
on account Of it's excessive dryness
there being only about twenty days or
rain In year, and then never more
than an hour or two at a tlme-sO that
there Is very seldom a day when inva-
lids may not exercise in the open air,
The winter temperature averages 80
degrees T.. which Is eight degrees
warmer than Rome, Nice and the Ry-
lera. Constant sunshine envelops the
place, as with n garment; but the tx
ceedlng dryness, which is so favorable
to throat and lung diseases, plays havoc
with the nerves. a soft and balmy
breeze comes frequently from the north
west, so upsettlng TO nervous people
that It's influence Ii recognized In local
courts OF law. and
CRIMES OF PASSION
committed when this wind IS blowing
- -. l.. e ~.