The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1901-12-08

eyitabis mock Blue Point. Only At the
clubs and the very best restaurants are
there any real Blue Points 20 be had NJ si
and not always at those places. m
But the name Of the Blue Point wiz
| continue TO carry II irrespective 81 is
flavor or lack Of Il. You may not be stlo
10 detect the Blue Point that IL bogus Su'
you Will never mistake the real one wheh
| you taste IL.
Soups we have improved in. and Why
Because a Arm OF French soup makers
sent us q timed soup that was 70 far the
superior Of all the soups served here tha'
we began TO learn what soup really was
This was the method In which education
crept In upon us In this line. Now you can
get good green turtle soup and excellent
bisqties at hotels In place Of the old washy
Juliennes and the consomnes made from
beef extract and hot water.
As soup makers and appreciaters we
are still far back of the French and Italian
yea. wen the English. but for all that we
have learned and We are grateful.
A this time OF the year In town, no one
should neglect TO have terrapin or the oyster
crab when in the ~propinquity OF q .good
cook. AZ other times the shad and the
soft shell crab, the bluefish and other sea
food offer their timely freshness, but just
now the terrapin and the oyster crab are
at their best and should not be passed over
In another month when the cold weather
becomes settled and the ice forms In the
river. the live codfsh will offer another
welcome sea dainty. esteemed by many az
superior in favor 70 anything that ever
came from the water,
Game is delightfully."- abundant now.
The canvasbaok duck and the smaller
varieties are plenty, partridge, wood
cock and quail are fat and well favored.
To my mind, il is a mistake to have any
interlude between terrapln and game. ,
a heavy roast, or a dish Of any decided
favor, mars the selection. Oysters, soup,
| terrapin and u duck or small birds make
a sufficient dinner for any one but a day
laborer. Salad, cheese, coffee and a sweet
may complete the meal.
If an eutree Is desired. there are fine
fresh mushrooms broiled or in paities,
artichokes, asparagus a la vinaigrctte.
There are innunieranle dishes TO select
FROM, but the intrusion OF a roast, TO my
mind, IL quite as homogeneous AZ serving
a mail delicate bird like quail as a game
course after a tremendous turkey.
The sweet IL getting lighter and there
! are no more hot puddings. thank the fates!
Pie has gone out. Moderation Is one OF
the rules of epicureanism, and the over
crowding Of dishes at a little dinner IL a
barbarism.
but there are a few rules tina, may always
be observed. Oysters nay precede any
thing. and game should follow terrapin
without any serious course between Sauces
and soups mus, not repeat themselves.
Variety is the secret OF choosing dinners
! properly. Unfortunately, We become adj
| dicted 10 one corner Of the club dining
room. TO one table, to n waiter. to one
cigar, to one wine.
Sometimes a man will take II as an af-
| front il he be old hat his f~avorite dish
il gone out Of season He will Immediately
have II sent on from the South or the North,
| or wherever il NAV be obtainable, instead
of taking the other foods that are sent AZ
a substitute for IL.
This l. a mistake. The markets here
! orer constant variety. Things are always
coming in. and while %terrapin and game
are now at their very best. and will con-
tinue through the winter, the first OF the
vear will sec lamb and chad and peas
potatoes. asparagus and strawberries from
the South, and will furnish the midwinter
novelty now possible in New York, a spring
dinner in January