Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1901-03-16
STYLES IN MEMS DRESS
THE DAYS OF sACKCLOTH AND
ASHES.
The Trend in Shirtings In Conserve
tive-FlamboyantH alf-Hose Out
of Fashf0n-LOw Collars.


| The Lenten season. or the forty days of
| sackcloth and ashes Is upon US and we
will now have to busy ourselves preparing
for the 7th of April, when, by rules un-
| written, We are supposed to come forth in
| our new spring attire. Every man who
| dresses by the calendar extends a cordial
| invitation to pneumonia to enter his sys-
tenn. Our April days are tickle, and, there
| fore, we can no longer accept Easter as the
time to drop winter apparel and take up
| our lightweight garments.
| The fashions of the coming spring will
| not vary to any great extent from those
| of last autumn. The cut OF suits viii be
| about the same, except that Jackets Will be
| longer and trousers not quite so pear
SNAPPED The military air Will be preserved
and so far as formal attire goes Will not
| see anything that viii prominent on &c
count of its peculiarly.
| L have observed tendencies In both shirts
| and shirtingS that bespeak the predom1-
| nance of quiet enectS. The white and the
black and white combinations Will not take
| second place to the more vivid tones in
the best circles color is now being tabooed
| as much as possible. Quiet shirts, cravats
| and half-hose will be marked characters
/ tics of the well-dresSed man of the spring
| and summer of 1901
| Negiige shirts of white with self stripes
| or units, of white grounds with black
stripes, or white grounds with neat colored
!
| plain styles. These shirts are being made
without any buttons in the bosom. the
! bosom has three stud holes, and in them
| you wear fine pearl buttons with stud
| backs These buttons come in white, black
| and other colors. When the shirt goes TO
! the wash the buttons are taken out. This
| insures good buttons at all times. L think
| the innovation very practical With a white
shirt you can wear white buttons and with
a black striped shirt black buttons. These
new buttons have thread in them and look
as IL they were sewn on the shirt.
| The new collars will be of the new fold
| type. They will be of moderate height and
| have lock front or fold front bands. The
| corners will be round or square, the pref
| erence being for the first mentioned. The
| front spacing will be moderate to wide.
| Cravats win undoubtedly be larger and
| this will call for collar with more spnce
| than that to be found in prevailing models.
| The new cravats will be but slight modi-
| fications of existing forms. The batswings
| will be quite wide and will-be made with
| blunt and pointed ends. Butterfiys will be
larger. The very small ties in butterfly.
| straight and batswing forms will also be
| popular. The novelty in ties Is the big
windsor or artists bows These are not so
| good on the soft shirt and fold collar as
| the smart small ties, and l do not think
that they will be as popular. Derbies will
| be broad. l think from 11a to inches, AID
| about 45 to So inches long. They will be
made in quiet effects and in solid colors,
and will also come in the edged and CEN
| ter striped models. In the larger cravats
= the soft once over ascot Will undoubtedly
hold it's own. Hunting stocks, neckerchiefs
| and croats will be introduced in new forms
| as well as new models and effects. Owing
to the popularity of golf, wheeling and au-
| tomobiling they will form more than ordi-
narily feature of the wardrobe Of the
! summer man.
| In sticks men are carrying medium-slzed
| affairs. The very small whip-iike stick is
| no longer in good form. The most popular
| sticks are of stepped partridge, that Is, a
stick cut down in little ridges or steps.
natural ashes, manorias and bamboos. The
| dark stains are very popular. Greens are
| not to be seen in the best shops and are
merely fads. Dark browns and black stains
are best. Sticks should be very neatly
| trimmed with silver, the nose piece and COL
| lar being the only bits of ornamentation.
| The square sticks which were so loudly
heralded as very swell novelties have not
| been taken up by the best dressers and ale
| now quite out of form.
| In the better grades of collarS-I mean In
| those to retail at 25 cents and upward-the
| new styles in all fold forms are two inches
| OF under in band width.
| Fancy half hose have been done to death
| The popularity of the low-cut shoe af-
forded an opportunity to display colored
| ties with the new mode that fancy hose
became riotously vivid and extensively
| flamboyant. The loud striped things will
not be in good form next spring. The feet
will be clad in low-cut shoes Of durable
| and comfortable build. These shoes will
| be of calf and they will be polished, not
'.shined" The shining shoe is in bad
| taste. shoe should be properly BACKED
and rubbed with a brush until it is bright
| that is, give it a black satin-like finish.
| The half hose will be in solid colors of
| moderate hue, with neat clockings in self
or in contrasting color. Some will have
| very neat instep embroidery and some will
! be In neat perpendicular or horizontal
| stripes. In no will the colorS be
many or very brilliant.
Cravating effects and colors will also be
moderate In the twills. grenadines, bara-
theas and various cotton weaves neat ef-
fects will prevail. The same applies to
shirtings.
| | think it will be good plan to recon-
| mend white and unbleached linen duck
waist coats for summer. Every man should
have one or two. There are occasions
when it is not proper to appear without
wastcoat. The semi-formal affairs held
| during the summer afternoons at large
hotels and at the country houses call for
| a suit made up of three pieces.
In hats we will have heavy chip, low
| crown straws, the Alpine Panamas and
soft felt hats. For the field there are the
new fiat golf caps and the cloth tams
which are now coming in for golf. In our
| outing attire we may indulge in all the
| color we wish, and for that reason 1t is
| proper that our more formal neglige attire
| should be unobtrusive. The relief is
welcome. as 1 am sure all will agree. The
mode will closely follow the general trend
Of last season, excepting in suits, where
1 think there will be some notable de-
partures. The short jacket and the baggy
peg top trousers will undoubtedly be sue
| ceeded by longer coats and by trousers cut
to follow the natural lines of the leg.
Cards In the Army.