New-York tribune., 1901-04-07

had military collar and Directoire capes none Of
these meeting, as the garment did not close any
where The utility of driving cloak that does
not entirely cover the gown may be questioned,
but the garment is extremely graceful. and there
are always purchasers in Paris for any attractive
novelty. matter how impractical It may be.
The little Directoire boleros have been described
before, but II seems well to add that they
making a great success. Some nothing but
wide belt, to which position pieces added and
the belt attached merely by straps the Di-
shoulder capes and military collar. Others
follow the lines of a bolero, and include the pos
tilion pieces and the Drectoire upper part.
MODES IN SPRING WRAPS.
Many of the small spring wraps finished with
rosettes and long ends for everything that may
add a long slender effect to the figure is modish.
Some of the shorter boeros that have rounded
sides unite these sides the bust with rosette
and flowing ends. Another idea occurs on a bolero
that IS end in a little sharp point each
side OF the waist line. These held down by
rosette with long ends. This idea adds a particu-
larly slender appearance TO the figure.
Very modish IS a bolero Of linen batste in the
natural shade. embroidered with white silk and
silver thread and perforated lining of white
silk. The garment is the waist line in the
back with the sides soping up little TO en-
phasze the little points they finally make in front
On each point Is rosette Of white moussene de
sole and a large silver button. holding long. silver
trimmed ends Of the soft white fabric The rolling
collar makes revers Of the shawl variety that end
sqrs Of 3 az c Gssn some ns l0yey
p over some soft fabric ike White mousselihe de
sole These silks are generally gayly hrocaded in
by the lacelike perforations. The silk may also
have the fashionable silver surface.
charming use Of such silk is shown in the
following, gown which Paris house has just
ea S mas & m rho erf"rnons o "nfn 6b
lined with delicate embroidery of silver. The
mousseline de sole. The skirt which is after the
ares xcessvey ' at the bottom a' It is rmmed With R
two rows Of puts OF white mousseline de sole. sep
head a shaped nounce For the upper part OF the
rr shred with srsp @ of SEVER Ge T0ie
lace the shoulders and under the arms like the
lines Of bolero. At the two corners in front are
rosettes Of pink panne and long ends of mousseline
. de sole @pEbr0idered mi with pink and silver The
IS a pink that shows rather family through the
both front and back. IS Of rose panne, embroidered
II IS the Thinning and rich material that make
@ e oa4 SO nes f the h is p2Ieass eSH r to et d G
skirt continues be popular perhaps more so for
elaborate SILK IL than for tailored gowns So many
custom tailors are little doubtful Of It,
OF silky mohair in grayish blue. The gored skirt
has clusters Of small pleats at every seam. These
then left free, although they fatty pressed
Of I' the skirt This skirt is trimmed between the
clusters OF pleats with wide band of ecru lace
cretonne flowers in shades Of blue and green. For
closed boero OF lace covered with this fIower pat.
tern, and this IS closed on one side with bows Of
The lace sleeve ends at the elbow and is met by a
cuff Of the tucked mohair.
VARIOUS STYLES IN SLEEVES
There is considerable difference of opinion con-
corning sleeves. Some of the dressmakers
advocating. especially for tailored costumes a
turn TO the close plain sleeve SIN, II be ad-
mitted that the majority of gowns made in Paris
to-day have fancy sleeves and. as the summer ap-
pears. one hardly expect any change In the
direction Of planness A pretty sleeve is cut off
about half way down the forearm and finished with
a gauntlet cuff This cuff, which is clumsy. II
starting the wrist, is very pretty placed here.
and may be made Of some rich material. such as
ore sees a good many fouard silks, the old
fashioned spotted kind. used trimming wool
costumes 1t looks well on the mohairs that are so
much worn. An example OF smart and practlcaI
street suit is Of navy blue mohaIr air trimmed with
folds of blue ana %nG oI ia front and ra5ed rs np
high in the back and this is edged with fold of
baet bae is laid in deep shingles there
is little blouse cut down In decoiietage' ana
This too. is edged with the foulard: and has In
'front.' revers OF light blue linen, chic touch.
The narrow waistband and little punfs on the
sleeves Of the silk ,,o., ,,o.,, :. oes.o.,o,
ti1,7nad with black and white fouard. The upper
part SKIRT is close and sore& & o 5his is
Covered by snalled shaped founces OF cloth and
W9th tbis is boiero of cloth. which turns back to
show; high vest of tucked foulard lasleneu WIN
small all RED six ON the cuffs Of foulard These
- lie elbows with bell shaped sleeves OF oiack
over ne% Cloak that considered very smart hangs m
in loose m folds Soft iF9a Scarf passed in Of large
eyeet holes worked in the SUN sur bnoro describsd
The sleeves short and slightly bell shaped that
they easily s,seTe sp bsneath d This garment is
sIaSe Se Of light weight cloth mohaiT or sk; ana ana
may be aInent I11g are lined with this silk which is
light and slips easily oN~i aug