The daily journal. (Salem, Or.) 1899-1903, 1901-01-09

Nrw YoRK. Jan, g. 5The variety in
naolwsar this season is hardly surpassed
hv any other item Of dress. Any design
or combiration Of materials which can
be nut into stock is in order providing
II is we'll fitted, becoming and not clumsy
in effect. The collar which flare open
at either side in tiny revers TO show an
inner stock of lace or mousseliue is one
of the special fancies. Black or ,olored
panne may form the outer collar and the
little revers are faced with silk or satin
in contrasting colors or white, with tiny
gold buttons on the edge A soft tie OF
mousseine or lace is attached at either
side and knotted low midway between
The neck aud bust.
The stock with aturnoyer edge is very
popular and very pretty made OF elk or
soft satin finely tucked in diamond
design. In white silk the tucks should
be stitched in with colored or black silk,
the narrow turnover band finished with
silk the same color a. the stitching, aud
also stitched or embroidered in small
gold polka dots. narrow satin tie
knotted in front and decorated with
polka dots is the finish at the base.
Pretty little turnover edges, such as are
worn so much in embroidered linen
lawn, are made of black velvet and
embroidered with gold. These are
pretty over white or colored silk stocks
simply tucked around. The effect is
quite changed by pUintiig the bands
down to the lower edge of the collar
directly in front, where there is space
bet Seen, and joining them with a mar.
row black velvet tie knotted in the
centre and falling in two short ends
decorated with ferrets. These little gold
ornaments are everywhere, II there is
an end to which they can he attached,
but II they are daintily distributed they
are very fascinating IN spite OF their IN
iversal use.
Among the special novelties in trim
m ng il the use Of bands Of gold cam
vas studded with black velvet buttons
or embroidered with black and white
or colored silks. These are especially
recommended for cloths in the pale
colors 30 much worn. Any sort OF en-
broidery on gold is good style for dress
trimming, and 90 is chenille embroid'
cry Of various kinds. Quaint and old
fashioned i'm effect are some OF the new
gowns OF black silk striped around the
skirt with many rows OF graduated
black velvet ribbons. Some OF these
are made with gathered tlounce, on
which the velvet is sewn. Silver but
tons are effective with the velvet, and
especially so for fastening straps
across the front 10 form a vest. One
OF the new wide shoulder collars OF lace
adds to the quaint effect Of this style OF
gown, especially with small square
decollote neck. Another unusual cos
tune worn this season for a calling gown,
provided you have carriage, is made
Of white cloth trimmed elab0rately with
chinchilla aud silver galloon. For dressy
occasions ivory cloth ~ made up cllarm'
ingly with real cluny lace aid dainty
touches OF gold.
Cloths in the varied colorn 20, from
the palest tint TO black, are the ultra
gowns, while for evening psnne velvet
seems 10 have blossomed ont airesh.
The beautiful sheen is especially eliec'
tive under the gaslight, and this and
gold and silver cloth seem TO COM
price the novelties in materials for eve
ming dress. Silver and gold cloths, em-
broidered with chenille and applique
lace designs, are very striking in COM
bination with cream lace over pink, blne
VI yellow silk A bolero OF the cloth
with long coat tail ends, which have the
effect OF a sash falling over the lace skirt.
finishes most gorgeous gown. Panne
made up with white Brussels net is a
charming evening gown, the net form
ing the tucked front, and the deep
lounce ali around the foundation skirt,
which is OF the same color rs the panDe.