New-York tribune., 1901-09-02

N find. OF course. your correspondent judges
,hs rest OF the world by himself. All that he
tpew about the place before he got TO It was that
A. rave its name a kind OF sausage, and he
vss not even absolutely clear that this delicious
rssnd was not named after some one or other
- .be ,arioIs French BouIognes. The only reason
Vhy he got 10 Bologna at all was that the trains
bsrveen Florence and Venice ran at such incon-
renient hours that it seemed almost necessary 10
spend a night in Bologna? But. after casual
glance at the place going away the next day was
not 10 be thought Of.
The most striking feature of Bologna is fits
uueerness Il seems TO take 4 delight in doing
things differently from the rest Of the world. After
Fong 70 a hotel and being assigned TO room UP
ppe fight Of stairs down one flight OF steps and
around six corners. the pilgrim betooh himself TO
lhe Cathedral having found that the Cathedral. in
: town where there is one is usually a good
starting point for sightseeing. Here. as It chanced
10 he the day Of the saint TO whom the Cathedral
Is dedicated, II his fortune 10 portion Of
an elaborate service, presided over by Cardinal,
who unfortunately. cid not wear his name on his
hat and is therefore unidentified. The congrega-
ton was made up largely Of persons who seemed.
from the uniformity OF their dress and their habits
pf walking in professions TO be the inmates of a
number Of asyums for pretty girls but their pres
tnce in no way detracted from tie interest Of the
occasion.
The Cathedral itself is not fascinating. prohablv
because in the building and the decoration of il
he Bolognese neglected their customary prfnciple
ef originality. II looks Il they had tried hard
10 make themselves a little COPY Of ST Peters In
Rome, ana the comparison OF the two IS by no
means favorable 10 the church Of Bologna. But
there other churches. That Of San Pe-ronio
was begun with the purpose Of heating the Cathe-
tral OF Florence in size and beauty Now the
Cathedral OF Florence Is easy TO beat in size or
beauty either. yet the builders OF San Petrongo
accomplished some part of their object There is
40 doubt that the nave Of their church is more
beautiful than the nave OF Florence. but with its
aaVe San Petronio begins and ends The cb,,ro,,
NOT much TO look at outside. while the exterior
u he Florence Cathedral is its glory San Petronio
taiiea OF its object, the whole It ,vas 10 aava
pseh something over 600 feet long. and that would
nave surpassed Florence by at least a. feet hut
me puAoing Stopped when the nave was only 3s4
leet long being l72 feet shorter than the Catbe-
ara ol f4orenoze. ana having yet no transepts and
20 choir But il is great church Just as II stands
ana SHOWS the gNood intentions Of the Folocnese
mere Is more genuine odoity IN Santo Stefano
shch Is seven separate churches 1oined in one
Just Tor the sake Of originality II bears a r,ln,, m
Us outer wall. 1t must be a convenient device for
Pieaehing at the people who refuse TO coma 70
shufch Even IL you come 10 Bologna Won will
nave 10 take somebody's word for the exact n,r,
'el OF churches which compose Santo Stefano. for
"hen the custodian shows you around Won will he
suie 70 lose count, and then there are rooms which
you 90 not know whether you ought 10 count as
snsIches ss or only as chapels. Only three OF tbe
sns Loht on the street; the rest are behind them
= - uAleI tneIn and among them. One Of them is
~ ,,S me crypt and in this there is small pillar
he exat tbSlIson on II which says that it Is OF
sDoui tL hVe feet eight inches high In anofbeT ri
OF ne Holy Sepulchre al Jerusalem Near Tbis -
AtJe court called the Atrium OF plate aDd a.
balcony - Oi' u inarpie from Pilates
a. The beginning OF the twelfth century the
ssboognese took TO building towers Not TO have
towers Ilt
ToTrs ~ ,sItid1iisAt' lhey bulk them a slant The
To 1 TOUT feet out OF plumb If there are two OF
NJ you ,, can 60 10 the top OF f. One person alone
So,S ~ sollhe with you for small sum. However the
10 one nj = eStlaiYihg AZ al did not appeal strongly
lov-er - lau recently been to the top Of GiOttO's
~ Nnlch pointed toward the zenith of the burn
lerience TO make one csr s 10 el hoeng IN that ex-
to.g eht feet higher just because il pointed
exacT 1et.s 1s MONDAY sun, instead OF toward the
y Is true that Bologna has an annual mean tenn
N ne sake Of being different and that is a blessing
fps, sV SECOND degree to Bologna but after an II
eDea a. leineInbereo that II is only slight differ
Tss,,h m a mean temperature, and even here the
and i,yss6e ns6es one feel as If one thinking
your brs, OK too; II sometimes is. But there
In OH n 3 Sein 20 De steweo; here they fried
cookin - is the olnerence OF American and Italian
Tut rsnt this Is ? digression. The other tower the
sosre earisenda was begun in ITO and Was never
higS 90; ana lucky thing too. for il is iss feet
sGgd possibly be bId m1eb So bgSeE SeEs as
foSr over II IS true that the Pisans did sixty
even s-.s ,4ater, begin tower which leans
thar srg sgTe out the Bolognese could not foresee
tsslon stter al invention is thing and iIni-
ricer. ~ quite another, even supposing that the
means meant their tower 10 lean at all as is by no
WIFI s Is fountain IN the Piazza del Nettuno
dolph,Ss an Image of Neptune ana some mermaids
Sesty % MY years old. and far TOO queer 10 attempt 10
and ~ Bologna Is queer through and through
feogr e queerest thing OF al is that the class IN
s'alhy knows so little about It.
ay,x s