Evening star., 1901-09-14
STYLES IN MEMS DRESS
FASHIONS THAT WILL BE POPULAR
THIS FALL.
somber Colorings and Neat Effects
Day and Evening Shirts
Wrinkles In Collars.

The coming autumn and winter season
will differ but little in the sartoral sense
from that of last year. The changes have
been very few, and in the main represent
some slight modification of or departure
from standards that have become very ia
miliar. Mems dress is being held down to
very conventional lines. The run of color
that was the distinguishing feature Of last
year is to be curtailed and color will not
be prominent in anything that man wears.
Somber tones in overcoatings and suitings
and very neat color effects in cravatings
and shirtings will form the most promi-
nent distinguishing feature in the mode of
the coming season.
l have observed in looking over the new
goods for autumn that all that is called
new, paradoXical though it may seem, Is
really old. This is the modern tendency in
all things related even in the slightest de-
gree to art. The painters are drawing on
the old schools for inspirations, designers
are reveling in the art Of the seventeenth
century, house decorators are copying old
interiors and furniture and the architects
are drawing inspiration from the Greek
and Roman schools. In dress we are modi-
flying changing fashions that have been
in vogue before. The culrcss, the wing COL
lar, the skirted greateoats and the new
narrow-tip shoes are mere revivals of old
time fayOriteS
Styles In Shirts.
In shirts l look for very few changes and
practically no innovations. For dress the
plain linen bosom shirt, with slightly
rounded or square link cuffs attached, will
be the best form. The bosoms will be as
wide as the chest of the wearer admits
The stitching will be of moderate width.
Some of the dress shirts will have very
fine ribbed pique bOsOms, but l do not
think that this style will be as generally
accepted as the plain bosom. There will be
three stud holes in the bosoms, two of
which will show in the Waistcoat opening.
The shirt for wear with the evening jacket
will be the same as that worn with the
sWalloWtail coat. Some shirt makers show
a fine pleated shirt for wear with the jack
et and no doubt it will be quite popular
with the younger set. The colored shirts
for day wear shown with plain bosoms
and the patterns are noticeably neat The
figures are printed on madoplans or on
satin brooches or percales. The former
fabrics are given more attention In the
finer shops than percales are. The figures
are neat geometricals in black, dark blue
reds or lavender; stripes are also display
ed They are narrow and widely spaced
Pleated cOlored shirts will figure quite
prominently for wear with business suits
The plain neglige with center pleat and
made of madras or of fine flannels will also
be worn. The fiannels are designed for
neglige and come in rather neat stripes
Collars and Cravats.
wing, poke and straight stander. These
are in both wide and narrow stitching The
wide stitched wing collar is not as slightly
as that with narrow stitching, owing to
the liability of the edge, where the wing
bends, to swell and gap. The wing collars
have well-balanced, moderately spaced
WINGS the bottom, OF the wings forming
straight line. sIgn5
In cravats alLeofqt the forms are large.
xxrill ff>aFrx
the ascots wide .Df end and free of lining
The best fourth hand will have a wide
end and be graduated to a two-inch width
at the knot. Ties; sifa sold at all, will be
of the batswing Shape. For evening wear
there is new t1e.1I 1t is cut perfectly
straight and has square ends 1t is of
uniform width throughout. When tied it
shows a square, fat centerpece and the
ends stand out straight and come to the
edge of the shirtnbosom.
In clothes find indications which point
to the usual fight of the tailors to force
new fashions. In the first place, we will
have the annuaH cry for color in evening
dress and for the,a freedom from blacks
and whites in day dress. All of this do not
think will amoumHto much. The best
tailors are making trousers rather wide.
but avoiding the pegftop form. The trousers
are about seventeen and one-half inches at
the knee and fifteen and one-half at the
bottoms. They Will hang perfectly straight
from the hips. For evening dress the white
waistcoat will be given very prominent
place. These will be made both single and
double breasted and will have buttons COW
cred with the material of which the waist
coat is made. In evening dress coats there
will be no changes worth recording. That
garment is a staple fixture and it seems
impossible to improve upon the existing
standard. The frock coat will be practi-
cally the same as last year.
The evening jacket will not be made at
all by smart taiiors. 1t is now a ready
made, ''cbeap john article, and may be
baniShed entirely from the wardrobe of a
gentleman. A new coat something like the
evening jacket will be made 1t will have
a breast and side pockets and silk-faced
shawl collar and will close with two but
tons. These coats are designed for home
and club wear and are worn with single
breasted waistcoats and trousers Of the