The daily morning journal and courier., 1901-09-28

galleries wind on and on, as you may | see by poking your head through a
 easement for a side and upward view
 of similar holes that seem to have no
 end. No other place in the world is so
 strongly fortified. One would think
 that nature had done enough in that
 line, but science has made it absolutely
 impregnable. Ravelin, curtain and
 rampant blend and mingle with na-
 tures barriers. Below the tunnels
 whose embrasures, belonging to the
 batteries command the entire Spanish i frontier, are other Notifications called | flower lines" reputed to be the stron- ! gest and most scientific of all Myste-
 ry enshrouds this place, it's secrets be- ing known only to a few of the highest officials and it's galleries are never shown to strangers. In the lower fort are guns so big, each weighing one hundred tons that they have to be ma nipulated by machinery run by steam. It costs England something over a mill
 lion dollars year to maintain this garrison; but it is worth its cost. Barracks are scattered all over the rock, and everywhere the red coats of
 
 progressively in evidence-stalking about singly, in pairs, in groups, at guard mounting, target practice, com pany or battalion drill, as if they owned the earth and meant to keep it. Palms and aloes, covering the sides of the mountain, partially conceal the cannon that command the waterway. Sea walls line the strand, mounting heavy batteries. Fragments of old Moorish walls are seen; parapets surmounted by the finest rifled guns; batteries min- gled with villas, gardens and stunted orange trees; and yet higher up, on an inclined plane, a bright green parade ground, dotted with scarlet coats, which lend brilliant bit of color to the black cliffs below The houses are square and severely plain, all built of stone with iron covered verandas, that almost meet across the precipitous streets. No wood is allowed in their construction for fear of fires; and all the buildings are painted drab or straw color with an occasional sky-blue one to break the monotony. Sheer from the verdure clad slops behind the town the naked rock rears it's slight depression in the center of the ridge; and upon it's seaward end-a huge bald knob of gray stone--s perched powerful search light which sweeps all parts of the har- bor with the beam of it's immense eye and in the trail of it's white glare every vessel stands out in bold relief at dark est midnight. Your steamer, anchored off Devils Tongue"-a land battery projecting into the harbor at the northern end of the rock--is instantly surrounded by small boats that swarm out to convey passengers ashore, for a liberal consideration. A multitude of guides come on deck, offering their ser vices to show you round" and it is wise to secure one if merely as time saver, unless you intend to spend some weeks in Gibraltar, I wish I would send you portrait of the tall Spaniard who Is the best guide of all, so that you might secure himSwhen you visit this place. He was the 4fedoubtable Fer guson'' of Mark Twain's party, and to- day exhibits with pride funny certit1- cate of recommendation from the geni- al humorist to whom it may concern" Of course Ferguson is not his name, but was bestowed flor short" by Twain, who could not pronounce his Spanish cognomen