Evening star., 1901-06-14
LONDON STYLES FOR MEN
MUCH MORE sUBDUED THIS SEASON
THAN FORMERLY.
Latest Things in Frock Coats, Ties
and Hats-A Departure in
Norfolk Jackets.

London Correspondence Of the Haberdasher.
This years smart man, viewed in the
light of both his tailoring and his haber-
dashery, will be a subdued individual. He
has apparently made up his mind for a
period of somberness, and into whatso-
ever establishment you go this impression
Is strongly conveyed. The gray flannel
cloth, dark for choice, and with fine YER
tical stripes one-half inch to one inch
apart, will constitute, as regards material,
the standard Of smartness this season. As
for style, the lounge suit, with single
breast-breasted coat with high-cut lapels,
square corners and tapped pockets; dou-
ble-breasted high-cut waistcoat and trous-
ers Of medium leg width will be the pre-
vailing taste. Some men prefer the dou-
ble-breasted coat and single waistcoat,
and this will be equally correct, being
purely matter of taste. fair sprinkling
Of morning coats of similar material cut
rather long and full in the skirt and worn
usually with fancy double-breasted waist
coat will, l think, be seen this summer.
The frock coat has no particular variation
except that 1t Is cut a little longer than
hitherto, reaching to about an inch below
the knee. the lapels being silk fronted to
within one inch of the edge.
Fancy Waistcoats.
style in the fancy waistcoat line that
Seti!lS W pe ATTRACTING d EOOO uedl Oh IdNOr
just now consists of a garment made in
some suitable shade of gray with a spotted
pattern Of minute stars in white silk or of
small stripe-shaped spots the stripes slant
ing alternately in opposite directions 1t
is cut In that peculiar V-shape, double
breasted at the top, single at the bottom.
1t closes high up in the neck, with no col
lar and leaving but a small expanse of
shirt front visible. The edges are bound
round with an inch-wide braiding Of black
ribbed silk carried up the lapels and right
around the neck. The pockets are four in
number, with flaps edged in the same way.
The buttons may be any variety Of fancy
metal or of plain white pearl, and either
fiat or ball shaped. The front comes down
rather to point; really a couple Of points,
formed by the croSsing-over portion. This
Waistcoat Is worn either with the lounge
suit or with the morning coart. For the
frock coat the correct thing is the plainly
cut donbie-breasted waistcoat, which, how
ever may be In fancy material If prefer
red, or the single-breasted variety either
with or without collar.
Gay Ties Not In Favor.
Although the season is well advanced
there is as yet no sign of the return to
favor Of the gay and festive ties and shirts
that prevailed last year. The pink and
white linen and silk ties have gone the
way of the blue and white silk shirts for
the time being and are relegated to OBJ
scurity. The correct tie this season to
wear with the frock or morning coat Is
one of the soft, black finely ribbed silk
variety with white spots or stripes. The
spots may be of almost any possible de-
sign, while in default Of riot Of color,
stripes seem to have made up their minds
to display as much complication In the
way of direction and width as they can
good many ties are worn with the stripes
graduated IN size, being wide at the bot
tom and gradually narrowing toward the
top. A taste also seems to have sprung up
with some men to have their ties made
with a slightly different pattern on the
back to that on the front SO that when
tied In the cravat or bow a noticeable nov
city of effect is produced; in some cases
this Is carried as far as having the front
or the tie very light gray and the back
very dark. By the way, as the season
advances the light gray variety will be
more extensively worn than at present A
novelty in the way of color has appeared
Tor cravats In the shape of new kind Of
blue, something between the Oxford and
Cambridge. with a dash of gray in it. with
the dark gray flannel suit 1t looks remark
ably well. BY way of placing the prevail
Ing tints in order of popularity / will put
the black silk with white or heliotrope
spots or stripes first: the light gray with
black stripes very fne) second, but grad
ually overhauling the first; the heliotrope
with black pattern third, and the above
mentioned blue with a few other tints last.
While on the subject of ties / may mention
that the diamond scarf pin seems to be
coming back into favor after q somewhat
prolonged Punishment 1 have noticed a
good few smart men lately wearing them,