davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-08-03

Millinery grows apace in enchanting
comprehensiveness A bewitching cha
peau. a recent apparition, is regular
plateau of natural tinted tuscan, the
edge of the bIim wreathed with dead
white roses resting on bed of delicate
green leaves, while across the crown
there spreads a great wide bow of broad
black ribbon velvet. or, in lieu Of the
white roses. red velvet petaled gera-
NUNS look especially we'll and carry
eminent conviction of the best style
So far as personal observation goes
and can one judge by fairer means P
there is no authority for declaring the
presence of the small toque, appraised
at the left side, vouched for by one or
two chroniclers of fashion. Wide. fiat
more or Iess-and enveloping, the lat
ter day toque pursues the even tenor Of
it's way.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-08-03

ing for several seasons Blouses Of
zephyr. pique. linen, washing silk or
batiste, comfortable for hot weather
wear, yet sufficiently handsome for or
binary dress, enjoy a high degree of
popularity Those of embroidered ba-
tiste are as expensive as silk ones. but
are much more elegant. Biouses of
wash silk are considered worthy of any
amount Of work and are tucked and
stitched to a degree that would have
been considered superiuous for a wash
able waist season or SO ago. Some
bIouses are even hand embroidered. and
those which are appliqued and inset
with lace at the cost of. days of labor on
the part Of the seamstress are too nu-
merous to cause a ripple of surprise
A craze for wearing simple little
gowns, most Of them rendered highly
ornate through the use of costly en-
broideries, is one Of the idiosyncrasies
of the hour. Gray spotted yelling over
gray silk, made without tuck or hounce.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-08-03

dress. The finer and richer a bit of lace
the better It sets off frock. Therefore
many women have had their handsom-
est 1aces converted into adjustable col
lars and revers. Among the odds and
ends of that sort displayed for my ben
eft in a modish shop I particularly
liked the Marie Antoinette collar, with
long scarf ends caught just below the
shoulders by bows of black velvet rib
bon. Next to that 1 favored a collar of
embroidered Hnon so soft and dainty
that only those lost to all sense of beau
ty could fail to appreciate its value.
This collar crossed the shoulders and
descended in deep points to the waist
line. Another pointed collar was of fine
tucked muslin bordered with deep
bands of guipure. A collar and cravat
of spotted liberty satin hemmed with
plain satin and other collars Of lace
and silk finished with more or less
elaborate cravats were included in the
collection.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-08-03

ARTS, July 20.-Perhaps they
may be trihe hypercriticaI
in France. One never thinks
Of that though in looking over
their results in the sartorial
line. Some people claim that
there are no tailors like those Of Bond
street; but. for my part, the Rue de la
Paix, the Rue RivoI and the Avenue de
TOpera contain artisans more distin-
guished. 1t is a fad to extol the Eng
lish tailor at the expense Of his brother
craftsmen of other nationalities- sure
" some of the smart outing frocks worn
by Partisan bellies this season should be
proof positive of the pre-eminence Of
French Wori1men-
The lawn tennis costume is one of
the most difficult to adapt to the ext
gencles of fashion, for, with all its sim
plicity, it must be up to date in cut and
material. Nothing could be prettier
than the dainty tennis suit of crimson
spotted white pique turned out recently
by a shop on the Rue Auber for a very
chic little comtesse. The skirt was
plated and had wide straps of pique Dor
dered with cords running down each
plat about three-quarters of the length
OF the garment. From the termination
or the strappings the plairs spread
loosely. giving ample freedom to the
limbs Three frogs Of white cord acted
as partial restraints to the lower folds.
The blouse worn with this skirt was
also of spotted pique. Indeed, it occur
red to me that the design might very
we'll be carried out for a long skirt. in
the construction OF one of those popular
shirt waist dresses The sleeves. slight
" full above the short cuffs, were strap
ped and corded like the skirt, similar
straps crossing the shoulders and but
toning over the little patch pockets
Down the front Of the blouse a row Of
the white frogs took the place of but
tons. A broad trimmed sailor hat bound
with band of striped red and white
ribbon was recommended for wear with
this gown.
F'renchwomen are more particular
about their bicycling costumes than Ell
Their American or English women. 1t
was, therefore. with much interest that
I inspected the dust gray alpaca frock
which I was informed had been made
up especially for the Comtesse Castel-
lane. The box plated skirt was strap
ped and stitched, the end of each strap
being held down by an ornamental cut
steel buckle. over the blouse of polka
dotted blue silk was to be worn a half
loose bolerO. long and pointed in the
front and crossed with narrow bands OF
black taffeta on the collar. over a sec
ond edge OF the alpaca more taffeta ap-
peared. Four tabs crossing the black
striped front were fixed by steel but
tons, like those on the skirt The
sleeves were given a novel appearance
by the application of wedge shaped tabs
over a striped, trumpet shaped cuff.
Shoes of gray suede over gray silk
stockings were mentioned as the cor
rect accessories to this frock.
Serge lis still deemed the best material
for yachting wear. A blue serge fol-
lowing the latest fashion in each detail,
has been completed for an American
lady who expects to wear it to the cup
races. The trimming consists of bias
bands of white linen crossed by dark
blue braid -Four of these bands. grad
uated in size. crossed the lower part Of
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-08-03

One of the most striking changes IN
the seasons fashions is centered IN
headgear Flat shapes are much in
vogue, but should only be worn by
those who can dress their hair we'll
There seems no doubt that we shall
in time see exaggeration in the matter
of sleeves, and the natural result OF SO
much puffiness below the elbow will be
a good deal of fullness above. But Tor
this season we are not likely to suffer
from anything very outre. The keynote
of all fashion is simplicity, and the
grace and individuality of the wearer
are carefully studied
The demitoilet is a sort of compro-
mise between the tea gown and the pic
ture empire frock, though an attractive
blouse with a long, sweeping, light skirt
will serve the purpose
The dust cloaks this year are charm
ing and quite inexpensive, there being
a strong feeling fo- linen, made full or
three-quarter length and cut a lempire
or en- princesse- Linen is such a relief
after alpaca which never seems stylish
These linens are made with an enor-
nous cape collar of embroidery or lace,
! and, moderate in price as these wraps
are, they form ideal race coats when
cut by a good tailor
A white chiffon frock always looks
its best with a rope of pearls, be it for
day or evening wear. There is no doubt
that these exquisite gems SAVIOR OF
simplicity and are generally much more
individual than diamonds Again, a
fashionable woman will wear a partic-
ular stone to match her dress. OF
course, for half mourning pearls and
diamonds are de rigueur- Many people
are taking to wearing opals once more
So apparently the old superstition is dy-
ing out.
A smart Partisan race coat was re-
Gently seen made of plated glace silk
deliberately trimmed with insertions OF
applique ecru lace and high medici
collar lined with accordion plated ehif-
fon and lace There is certainly no
abatement in the craze for lace and en-
broidery, and the new limitations of old
designs are wonderfully good and very
cheap, so that the most economical OF
US can afford to purchase some lengths.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-08-03

AS regards fabrics, there is more sub
stance in the soft. clinging crepe de
chine and satins of today than in the
tulles of yore. Many women complain
of the price of crepe de chine, but 1t is
really a good investment. for no fabric
cleans SO beautifully, and when the
powers of the cleaner have been eN-
hausted the dyer's art can be resorted
to. Thus it is seen that crepe de chine
is a most serviceabIe fabric, which can
do duty equally well for day or evening
wear.
Another fashionable fabric of the
same silky texture is poplinette, which
likewise can be worn on various Occa-
sions. These poplinettes vary in quail
ty Some are entirely of silk, and
others are of silk and wool, resembling
a very fine canvas, akin to wolfe, but Of
softer finish.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-08-03

To make q rock fernery it is just as
well not to sink the fountain basin into
the ground, but to pile about it the
rocks which are to form the foundation
Soil win give the stones a solid base.
Common limestone rocks are best to use
with vegetation. The interstices among
the stones should be filled with soil, and
in these spots the ferns are set.
The fountain basin may be lined with
shells, small stones and MOSES. a cush-
ion of moss being extended over the
edge of the basin to hide the wood
Some aquatic plants can be set out in
the water.
Specimens of maidenhair fern are
found in every locality; but, as rule,
each neighborhood has its own varie-
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-08-03
SUGGES TIONS
CONCERNING

APPLY. nature Is fond of va
riety. Otherwise she would
not constantly treat herself
to changing forms and chang
ing types. Now that summer
is Wen on the way to maturi-
ty and the fresh blossoms with which
she delighted our eyes in the early
spring are no longer novelty, she be-
gins to slowly uncurl the plumy leaves
of the ferns until in the dark. moist
corners of the woodlands or on the bor-
ders OF the mysterious marshes they
bravely daunt their fronds as the ban
ners of autumn's vanguard. Nothing
{ that summer brings is more worthy of
admiration than the slender green fern.
shy and retiring as the first violets OF
spring.
Ferns are not difficult to cultivate If
the gardener will only remember that
they require a shady, damp place of
residence. If they are carried home
from the wood, it is always a good idea
to scoop up with them the soil in which
they have been growing. This is, as
rule. rich, black earth
The young ferns are making their APP
pearance. and it is a good plan for the
woman who wishes to own a fernery,
either indoors or out, to begin to put
her ideas into shape
Outdoor rockeries, are most satisfac-
tory for fern growers who have had no
experience. It is not every one who
can have a fountain rockery although
the description Of one furnished by an
amateur who planned it. does not sound
very difficult. This fountain was built
from an old hogshead sawed into two
sections, one of them two-thirds of its
volume and the other one-third The
larger section was placed in an elevat-
ed position. to serve as the reservoir for
the water. while the smaller piece, sunk
at a short distance from the first. serv-
ed as the fountain basin. Beside this a
piece of lead pipe about six feet long
was extended from the bottom Of the
reservoir to the fountain basin. The
maker of the fountain says.
The pipe can be easily bent with the
hands and passed through holes in the
wood made by burning with poker or
boring with an auger- OF course. the
pipe ought to be sunk in the ground or
otherwise hidden from sight in order
that the deus ct machina may not be
too apparent Topping the lead pipe in
the fountain basin should be tin tube
long enough to reach above the surface
of the water when the fountain is fill
ed. but not to stand much above the sur
face. A small metal thimble Zone can
he bought at a notion shop for a pen
pyl. pierced with tiny holes VIII finish
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-08-03
hat they do not fade Sd readiIy as dow

that they do not fade so readily as flow
ers.
In buying fern dish it is always adj
visable to follow the advice of the sales
man, who has the best opportunity to
know what style of goods is modish at
the moment. It is not difficult to select
tasteful fern dish because almost any
color will harmonic with the green of
the plants, although delicate shades and
dainty designs are to be preferred.
Square and the round vessels are equal
~ appropriate. Long fern holders set
upon tiny supports give a handsome
appearance to a general decoration,
while the low dishes look best on the
dining table There is no special rule
to explain this; it is just one of the gen
eral results that appeal to good taste
High decorations for dinner or lunch
con are always tabooed because, to
promote sociability, the different per-
sons at the table should be able to see
each others faces, which they cannot
do if the centerpiece is too high.
LAURA FIELD.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-08-03

latter of striped blue and white pfoue.
The cape collar, the blouse front and
the edges of the narrow cuffs were Civ
en- a charmingly soft and fresh appear
ance by plaitings Of fine white batiste
One notices an almost endless variety
in the cut of boleros- Fashion permits
them to be either long or short, round
or square, and further adds the use of
collars, Jokes and ornamental trim
mings of every variety. The cloth IL
cut into all sorts of fanciful shapes in
the composition of the ultra smart jack
ct, for the factis that most Of the more
elaborate ones are composite affairs in
whose making lace, enbroideries, silk,
tulle, mousseline chiffon. braids and
galloons are probable elements. Even
on the simpler outdoor frocks there is
an apparent tendency to needless in
tricacy- For instance, a golhng gown
of dark blue flannel was most remark
ably set off with a bolero cut into deep
indentatiOns, but held firmly in place by
buttoned tabs crossing the open spaces.
The star shaped double collar was
achieved by the use of an upper and
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-08-03
NoveItie. In voiIe and Lace.

Pale blue is once again a favored
shade for hats, sunshades, sashes and
little ct ceteras, but there is a novel
shade of pink very attractive, soft and
pastel in tone. which is to be seen In
cloth and canvas and in voile. wolfe be-
ing the idol of the moment. while its
immediate successor will be lace.
There are charming frocks in pale gray
wolfe bearing trimmings of lace to
match, and this tinted lace is a novelty
1t is mostly of Maltese character and is
to be seen only in nondescript tones.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-08-03

been spent for the building of one. The
plants require a warm, moist atmos-
phere. Sometimes a square glass frame
is used instead of the ordinary bell
glass. In such a case the ferns should
be planted in a case about three inches
deep. A light, porous soil. preferably
leaf mold, is the best for the growth Of
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-08-03

popular, as the great variety in the de-
signs and styles of fern dishes evil
dences. Decorated receptacles of pot
terry or of silver are preferred. although
any vessel of an ornamental character
that will hold the ruder one in which
the fern grows will do as well. The ad-
vantage of ferns as decorative pieces is
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-08-03
DECORATIVE USES OF WILD FERNS.

ferns. After the ferns are planted they
should be watered freely and allowed
to ventilate for a few days, when the
glass may be put down over them only
to be slightly raised when moisture col
lects thicl1ly on the inside. The water
ing done when the ferns are planted is
sufficient to do for several weeks.
Ferns are useful in all seasons They
make especially handsome table decora-
tons and are At the present time very
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-08-03

lower section. the over one a sailor and
the under one a star shaped affair.
These were prettily bound with white,
and over the blouse OF striped pique the
effectiveness of the queerly cut jacket
could not be denied
One Of the most popular materials
this summer is ecru embroidered linen
1t is made up into delightful robes over
slips Of taffeta In some delicate color.
Salad green is one of the most favored
shades for this purpose. Gowns Of fou-
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-08-03

IF you have no fish kettle, tie your fish
up in piece of coarse muslin to boil,
so that there may be no delay in TAX
ing up when it is done. Some people
say a slight rubbing with vinegar be-
fore cooking improves the favor, but
in any case a little should be added to
the boiling water, as it whitens the fish
and makes it 7rmer. 1t should never be
allowed to boil fast. or it win be tough
and havorless.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-08-03

the skirt. A waistcoat OF white pique,
with rounded front tabs, novel in pat
tern, underlaid the boIero- The triple
collar was finished with GALLONS over
a blouse of white and blue striped ba-
tiste.
Also for the water was the costume
completed for an English woman, the
owner of a smart houseboat, which she
inhabits during part Of the season. The
skirt and blouse were of different mate
rails. the former Of gray alpaca, the
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-08-03

1t is to be surmised that in a season
or two adjustable trimmings will OBJ
viate the necessity of milliners. As it is
now we have adjustable bows, choux of
tulle and chiffon, with which even an
amateur can convert a plain hat into a.
CONNECTION that would not be a discredit
to a milliner. Wreaths of flowers,
sprays and clusters of wings and feath-
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-08-03

Batiste is now largely used for slips
and Innings to cotton and muslin
gowns: but, although extremely cool,
it is not smart under a transparent tex
ture. 1t is an ideal lining for cotton
foulard and zephyr and a boon to the
lawn tennis girl who requires cool
and airy gown.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-08-03

formed one of these costumes. The
simple blouse, with its ornamental
yoke. and the rather full skirt, with an
inset band of plated mousseline de
cred leaves, was a model of chic.
Although all lace gowns are grad
ually being retired, there is no diminu-
ton in the use of lace accessories to
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-08-03

lard and DC Iouisine silk are frequently
incrusIed with medallions and squares
of linen tucked and edged with some
achieved such a success, it does not
appear To have disturbed the satisfac-
tory business which designers of
blouses and shirt waists have been do
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-08-03
AND
FERN DISHES

of the pipe so that a fine jet of water
only will be sprayed up in the basin. To
carry the water away from the foun-
tain another lead tube may lead to a
trench, from which open rows of fur
rows extend through the flower garden,
SO that the fountain may be utilized to
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-08-03

Squeeze a clean cloth out Of hot wa
ter, dip it in whiting. and with this rub
the paint till all dirt is removed. Rinse
Wen with clean water. dry with a soft
cloth and polish with a channels leather
Paint cleaned in this way looks IKE
new, and the whiting will no. iniure
even the most delicate colors-
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-08-03

ers. with twist of tulle. ribbon or
velvet used on one Of the prepared
straw or chiffon hats. are devices adopt
ed by many women who wish to vary
their chapeaux at slight expense
CATHERINE TALBOE
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-08-03

BAYAROIsE Az CHOCoLAT.-Beat thoroughly
together the yoiks Of three eggs and two whole
eggs into two ounces Of powdered sugar and add
TO them gradually one and a half pints Of boiling
milk and three ounces Of good chocolate which
has been dissolved in q cup in the oven. Put the
mixture in double saucepan over tho fire and
stir till the custard thickens; then add three
quarters Of an ounce Of gelatin which has preyi-
ousiy been soaked in little water and afterward
dissolved over the fire. Pass the custard through
a strainer into basin and let It cool and then
add half pint Of whipped cream Nix all to-
gether thoroughly with a Whslx and pour at once
into mold Put into a cool place III possible on
iee) and turn out carefully when wanted.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-08-03

ty- Ferns sold by florists are very rea-
sonable in price. SO that it l. not abb
soIutely necessary to go fern hunting in
order to build a pleasing fernery- Half
the interest in the rockery. though. con-
sists in discovering new varieties Of
plants on ones own behalf
Indoor ferneries are very simple A
glass shade placed over an earthen or
metal dish viii make as good an indoor
apparatus as though many dollars had
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-08-03

and it is given a pronounced tilt to the
left by a wide black velvet band and
rosette. The trimming consists of a
changeable silk scarf in pink and yell
low and large marguerites, one black
and the other a pinkish yellow. These
flowers have gauze petals. and the CEN
ters are made of chenille.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-08-03
A STRIKING NEW
STYLE IN MILLINERY.

Low, fiat effects with draped trim-
nnings are all the style in millinery. In
many cases the crown reaches out to
the width of the brin. The hat In the
Illustration shows this peculiarly. Il
IS made Of salmon colored rice straw
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-08-03

VEAL KIDNEY.-Take a large veal kidney, re-
move any fat or skin from It. cut into thin slices
and season with salt and pepper. Chop finely a
little parsley, small onion and fry ia two
ounces Of butter in a saucepan. Next add. the
kidney and fry quickly for a few minutes over q
brisk fire. Stir during the process Of frying;
moisten with a glass Of white wine. When 10 has
reduced little, add nearly half q pint Of thick
veal gravy, half dozen sliced mushrooms and
good squeeze of lemon juice Let all cook gently
for about u minutes add little chopped trufHo
and serve. Arrange the dish into circle Of boil
ed French beans sauted in butter, with the kidney
in the center. This dish is easily produced IN
perfect condition if cooked over steady, slow
fire made by using only small coal and coke.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-08-03

APPLY. nature Is fond of va
riety. Otherwise she would
not constantly treat herself
to changing forms and chang
ing types. Now that summer
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1901-08-03
! TINELYm MENUS

BAKED APPLES.-Wipe sufficient number OF
apples with a clean, dry cloth, stick four Eve
cloves in each apple and bake in good, moderate
for hour or less. according to the kind Of
apples used Serve hot with cream and castor
sugar.