The Washington times. (Washington [D.C.]) 1901-1902, 1901-08-25
LATE SUMMER STYLES.
Queen Fashion Now FavOrs the
"ChOkerless' Gown.
Even Morning Dresses Are Worn
without High stocks by Women
Blessed with Pretty Necks-
What the Autumn Has in store.


A good many of the gowns made fol
August gowns destined for the water
ing places, are made without collars OF
with even a slight dccolletage, although
they are intended to be worn with hats
This is the style of gowns one sees in the
restaurants of Deauville and Trouvilie
or at the Casino after dinner. 1t is a pref
ty genre of gown. as elaborate as a for
NAL evening dress without its severity
says Paris correspondent writing to the
New York Tribune
A lovely gown is of white mousSeiine
de sol painted with an allover rose design
About the bottom OF the skirt is a Dor
der of large flowers embroidered in relief
The bodice has Il fichu of pink mousse
line de sole, with the ends passed through
straps of black velvet. hanging down on
the skirt. The sides of the bodice are of
lace, and lace forms short. close sleeves
ending just above the elbows. Here is a
puff gathered into a ruilie OF the painted
mousseline de sole. with a line of en-
broidered roses along the edge.
A quaint little frock is of grey mousse
line de sole trimmed with pale Yellow vel
vet. The skirt is shirred about the back
and sides, and trimmed about the bot
tom by a cluster of small rutiies. The
bodice is blouse falling slightly over the
shaped yellow girdle. About the neck 1t
is Shirred into the form of round yoke
and below the Shirrngs is a Band CT yell
low velvet run in and out OF the stuff
and tied in front in cluster of long loo ps.
The sleeves are full and Shirred into a
ruftie at the elbows. where line OF vel
vet is run in and out, with loops on the
outside of the arm.
For the shore are little jackets of red
silk, trimmed with ecru batiste embroid-
cry. A pretty model is short as a
bolero on the sides, with the pleated back
gathered under broad belt, and fiaring
out in pleated coat tails. There are u
deep circular collar and revers of en-
broidery. The long sleeves are pleated in
clusters with a puff of ecru batiste at
the elbows. This little garment is to be
worn with simple musln skirts, or with
tailored skirts of serge or alpaca.
A gown that has several features of the
true sailor blouse is made of white linen
batiste, trimmed with flounces and me-
dallions of ochre colored lace. The hounce
about the bottom OF the skirt Is arrang>
ed in points, and from each of the four
points on the sides rises a line of medal
lions to the waist The sailor blouse is
full all round, and is trimmed with rows
of medallions, extending from shoulder
to waistband. The front of the gown is
cut out at the base of the throat, and there
is a sailor collar of lace, with scarf and
knot of pale blue silk. The draped waist
band is Of blue also. The sleeves are
trimmed with two rows of medallions. and
are finished with puff of lace, gathered
into narrow wristband.
Another example of the sailor blouse
occurs on gown of pink batiste, dotted
with white and trimmed with bands of
plain pink and knots of black velvet rib
bon. The skirt is made with three ruffies
each headed by few inches of fine pleat-
ing and finished with a stitched band of
the pink batiste. The bodice has the
batiste laid in clusters of hne pleats,
which blouse" over a belt of black rib
bon, with bow and cluster of narrow ends
falling down the back. deep circular
collar is ploated into shape about
slightly pointed decolletage; trimmed on
the edge with stitched band OF pink and
closed in front with a knot and loops OF
black velvet. The sleeves are pleated to
the elbows, where they have double ruff
fes edged with pink, and a bow of black
velvet.
As said before, great many of the
gowns now worn, even those intended
for the morning, are cut without chokers-
A pretty fashion is a blouse, open in
front and finished with deep turnover
collar. Under this is front of some
soft material. gathered about the base
OF the throat in the form of a chemisette.
a cool looking foulard of white, Powered
with mauve. is made in this way, with a
collar of white batiste and lace embroid-
cry, and with incrustations of lace down
the sides of the bodice. The underblouse
of white silk muslin Is gathered about
the throat by means of mauve velvet
ribbon run in and out of embroidered
=.
lacing connecting the sides of the bodice,
and little punches of loops here and
there. The sleeves have elbow cuffs of
batiste and lace embroidery to match the
collar. The skirt is made with two
shaped founces. each of them headed by
medallions of lace and batiste.
The dressmakers' ateliers during the
month OF August show a strange mixture
of laces, lawns. cloths. and furs. rather
confusing to one who is trying to giean
from them some general principles con-
corning the matter of dress But often
one may learn as much from a summer
gown bearing the last touch Of ribbon as
from combination of velvet and fur that
is going to the other end of civilization to
attempt to suit the caprice of some
naughty dame six months hence. Paris
modes seem to move always in one gen.
eral direction, and the little straws that
show which way the stream is flowing
are likely tc be found on a cool late
summer frock as a wool gown made
for early September.
1t is admitted by the dressmakers that
good many features of the summer
gowns will reappear at once in heavier
fabrics under the guise of autumn novel
ties and autumn models. And this is as
II always has been, and probably always
wiz be. Fashions have never moved in
jerks, and there has never been any i'm
portant change that could not be foreseen
long before il appeared.
There have been, indeed. many pretty
things introduced this summer that one
would be sorry to forego. The summer
has been responsible for the Marie Antoi-
nette models, which in simpler forms will
undoubtedly be carried over into the
tumn. 1t has brought the blouse bodice.
the true blouse. again into favor, and has
pointed out that the bolero is ecessity.
1t has introduced deep collars in place of
elaborate chokers, and demonstrated that
there is more than one way Of making an
elaborate sleeve.
skirt appears on some of the new
gowns showing a cluster of side plcats
in front. with a similar cluster behind
and elaborate trimming on the sides The
model in mind is OF grey blue wool mus
lin and the sides of the skirt are almost
covered by q trimming of ochre lace
medallioLs and appliqued cretonne flow
ers. The blouse is cut without choker
and has lace medallions about the neck
in the form of a deco yoke. and again on
the close, six-incb cuffs on the sleeves
The loose blouse falls over the waistband
of pale yellow silk a color found in the
cretonne embroidery. The embroidery
forming the yoke is carried over the tops
of the sleeves. which are close to the
arms with a bag shaped puff uniting the
a q cIoS. loxrer cuff