The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1901-12-07
FASHION HINTS.
Long, Loose Coats For Woman the
Novelty Of Paris Season.

the season remains the lOiS todlS
which are the most important of the
many wraps my lady affects. These
coats are as light and yet ample as
possible their use being to completely
envelop the wearer. Plated linen
mouSselne de sole, embroidered OF
painted in flowers striped with tiny
velvet stripes or ribbons, appliques OF
guipure or chantilly. are most used fol
these novel and now necessary cloaks
Embroidered or spangled tulle over
resplendent silk is also much in vogue
The effect desired is fioating-vague-a
cloudy development, as the French say
OF madame 1t is doubtful, however, if
these luxurious, fanciful cloaks are
particularly practical; but when are
fashions really practical, particularly
the most pleasing TO the eye? 1t may
change the utility of such coats once
they are made of cloth and heavy silk
for winter wear, but at present they
are a fashionable folly-nothing more
but so attractive that they can but be
popular. Even in cloth, however these
manteauX will be exceedingly luxurious
much trimmed, covered with lace and
applique, and even spangled.
Black and white for such coats will
be a favorite combination. The foun-
dalton of black taffeta and the garni-
ture of white tulle and white mousse
line de sole. The satin cloths. will also
be much in favor for the same coats,
which must always-for it is an essen
tial quality-be profusely trimmed.
Threading gowns with scarfs of sat
in, silk, or chiffon is one of the novel
ties in the way of trimming, and in eff
feet is dressy and particularly pleasing
when used in dark-hued gowns in black,
blue or brown.
Many of the prettiest new cloth
gowns have rough edges instead of
hens. the goods being neatly cut and
left raw at the bottom, instead of being
turned and either hemmed or faced.
Ruffies are left with the raw edges, as
are also the cuffs, and the front and
bottoms of the corsages or jackets.
Sometimes instead of the straight raw
edges the latter are scalloped and are
more ornamental than the palmer
edges. A dress of this description was
worn by prominent American woman
at a recent tea. 1t was of gray satin
cloth. The skirt was formed by two
wide f1ounces, one falling over the
other; the edges were raw. The style
was Louis XVI. with basque in the
back cut across, the edges raw. The
vest and collar We're of velvet and the
ceinture of white leather.
.
Shampooing the hair is almost being
completely abandoned by fashionable
women. Instead powder cleansing has
come into vogue. replacing the danger
Gus naphtha cleansing of the head call
ed "antiseptic shampoo" which, while
having an excellent effect upon the
hair was deplorable on account of the
accidents it engendered, the infiamma-
Bile quality of the naphtha having led
TO frightful disasters and often the ruin
of the beauty of women. victims of
imprudence in approaching light
after such a shampoo.
The orris powder shampoo is exceed
ingly simple. The hair is loosened and
brushed, then the coiffeur takes a silver
sitter full of powder which he lightly
sift all over the hair, leaving in a
short length of time to absorb the
grease or dust which has accumulated
in the hair. When he is convinced the
cleansing process has been affected by
the absorption he takes a pair of
brushes and vigorously brushes the hair
until not a particle of powder remains
in it. The great point is the thorough
brushing. which leaves the hair soft
and perfectly clean while smell
ing of orris, which clipgs to the hair
for days afterwards.
Many French women. have their
maids powder their locks with the or
riS powder each night and brush it out
the next morning, which keeps their
hair in constantly cleanly condition
and avoids frequent visits to the Golf
feur. However. a little care is all that
is necessary for even the woman with
out a maid to use the orris powder.
80,
tie a cravat-the sailor knot, tied of |
soft striped silk or silk and linen ties. |
Nothing violent in color or flaring in |
any way is admissible. Most fashion |
able men attach their cravats thus tied |
with a single ring or pin without pre- |
tension. For the evening the black tie |
is much in favor, particularly for sum- |
mer wear, with white waiscoat but |
fastidious Frenchmen remain faithful |
10 the white tie. which they knot grace |
fully. and which at present is exceed |
ingly narrow.
Like the dress suit at weddings in |
the morning. FreGchmen are beginning |
10 forsake the high silk hat, excepting |
upon ceremonious occasion, substitute |
ing the gray or brown felt hat or the |
still simpler straw hat, with black |
or blue MORE ribbon around the crown. |
.
Pointed shoes and slippers of extra |
ordinary lengths Will be the rage in |
Paris, and the fashion of incrusting |
She s for evening wear with fancy |
cloths and feathers has obtained i'm
mense success. Historical models are |
followed in footgear-Louis XIII. Louis !
XIV, Louis XVI shapes being among |
the most popular White and black are /
combined in some of the smartest slip |
pers. while the buckles of all kinds of |
low shoes are really works of art. Some
of them are authentic of the celebrated |
periods above mentioned and richly |
jeweled. The modern buckle. however,
copied from Laliqua, Vernon or other
new art designers, set in rich enamels,
is by no means to be despised, and is
often more practical than ancient ones
Hats eXaggeratedly large in size, re-
calling the Gainsborough and Reynolds
models, are the latest fin de saison nov
elites in the way of chapeaux. trimmed |
with rich plumes, masses of flowers
and chouX of rare real lace.
The umbrella will be an important
accessory, completing the street toilet |
of the season, and must be selected |
with great care. The newest form is
the "aiguille," or needle shape, and
handles rival each other in elegance,