Evening star., 1901-10-05
EDIBLE MUSHROOMS
HOW TO DISTINGUISH THE GOOD
FROM THE BAD.
May Be Boiled, Baked or Used i'm
Soups and Gravies-TOOth-
some Recipes.
Written for The Evening Star.


more varieties of fungi. Though some of
these are poisonous and should be avoided,
the majority are edible-edible. but seldom
eaten. This may sound like a paradox, but
every year tons of nutritious fungous foods
go to waste in our forests and fields, not
because their habitat is unknown, but on
account of the little value attached to them
as foods.
Probably the best known of all edible
fungi is the meadow mushroom. When
ever crossing rich pasture one is sure to
sec small punches of these white, possibly
slightly brownish, caps strewed about in a
hit or miss fashion. While the mushroom
is fresh the gills are beautiful pink color,
put as soon as the plant grows old or very
dry they turn a deep brown. The white
flesh of the cap Is inclined to become pink
when broken. Meadow mushroom has an
entlc1ng fragrance, and is usually fried
with butter, though it can be stewed in
milk. The batter should be favored with
spice, parsley, sweet herbs, salt and pep
per. This mushroom is an agreeable ad-
Junct to soup or meat when cut up into
pieces and cooked with the same.
The next best known species is the fairy
ring champignon. This variety also grows
In meadows, pastures and along the road
side, but never in woods. Instead of COM
ing up in punches, the plants form ring
or half circle, hence its common name. The
cap is coIored bright buff and the gills,
which grow very wide apart, are creamy
white. 1t is somewhat tough, and when
dried can be kept for years without losing
its flavor, which is particularly delicious.
The MiIk-BearinE Group.
The most esculent of mushrooms is the
milk-bearing group. Perhaps the choicest
member of this genus is Lactarius pelic-
iosus, which is easily distinguished by the
orange or red colored milk that it ,xudes
bruised parts turn a dull green on exposure
to the atmosphere, as does also the milk
Ihe flesh Is firm and very juicy. Its habi-
tat is swampy woods, especially fir and
pine The flavor resembles hat OF kidney
stew. Baking is perhaps the best process
for this mushroom, since the juice can thus
be retained. Its greatest use is for making
rich sauces.
Though the abode of Cautharellus Char
1ous is very limited, 1t grows In great
abundance wherever found. So popular is
the variety in some parts of Europe that 1t
frequently takes the place of meat as q
staple article of food. One should look for
this variety In light woods on high situa-
tions. 1t may be recognized by it's rich vel
low color, which resembles the yolK of an
egg, and its odor like that of plums Crisp
and heavy ones should be chosen for culi-
nary purposes. Soaking in milk over right
will render them more tender The 1.lants
may be stewed in gravy or fricasseed in
butter, and should be cooked at the low
est possible temperature. as a great heat
always destroys the flavor.
Through the genus Morchella includes
very few species, most authorities say that
all are edible. The best of them, however.
Is Morchella Escufenta, which grows upon
short stem and has a large, hollow cap,
deeply pitted. In grassy spots on the bor-
ders of fields or raised river banks it may
be found in April and May. The numbers
may be increased by strewing wood ashes
over the ground. After thoroughly wash
ing they should be put into a frying pan
with pepper. salt, parsley and small piece
OF ham, and cooked not less than one hour.
a little broth being poured In occasionally
SO that the mixture shall never get drv.
When done each mushroom should be
served with egg on buttered toast.
Poor Mans Beefsteak.
One fungus has been designated the
poor mans beefsteak," because of the simi-
larity between the taste Of 1t and that of
meat. At first a mere rosy pimple that
may be found any time during the sum-
me1 season. 1T grows from the rotten bark
OF old oaks, chestnuts and ash trees In
snort time the pimple becomes tongue
shaped, assuming beet-root color. A few
days later 1t changes form again becom-
ing comparatively broad for its length. a
blood-red above while the lower surface
is always somewhat paler and frequently
tinged with yellow or pink. In two weeks
1t reaches maturity, after which II grad
ually decays. The best way to cook it is
by broilfng. However, this can be done
successfully only when it is young. If
cold the Juice should be extracted. To Sc
cure this very desirable property the fun
gus has to be sliced thin or macerated, put
into dish, with salt, pepper, a little lemon
and minced eschalots "a species of onion
or garlic and slowly stewed. Then strain
and boil the liquid, which makes an excel
lent flavor for beef gravy.
Perhaps the most valuable of the edible
fungi Is the one oftenest neglected. viz.
the giant puff ball.. This species is seldom
less than ten and frequently more than
twenty inches In diameter, by which i'm
mense size it may be distinguished from
other pufr-ball fungi In form It is some
what globose; In color, whitish or pale
yellowish brown. When immature the in
side Is soft. white flesh that changes to
an elastic, yellowish brown, cottony. dusty
mass OF f1laments and spores at maturity,
Puff balls are found in all parts of our
country. The smooth skinned varieties are
most palatable. If the inner flesh is white
and pulpy 1t is in a good condition, but If
marked with yellow streaks or spots it
should be rejected. The epidermis should
be removed and the puff ball cut into slices
not over half an inch thick. Dip these In
yolk of egg before frying in fresh butter.
ana while cooking sprinkle in little salt,
pepper and some variety of herbs.