The daily morning journal and courier., 1901-08-22
TRIPOLI.
4 FLYING TRIP INTO ONE OF THE
 B4RBARY STATES.
Large Display By Foreign Consuls-
 A Dash Into the Desert.

A Dash Into the Desert.
 Especial Correspondence of the Journal
 and Courier).
 The Mediterranean, sailing westward,
 July 18th, 1901.
 According to the customary routes of travel in this part of the world, laid down by guide books and steamship companies, Tripoli belongs to the Egyp- tian and Syrian tour, and not to the de- partment of Northern Africa. Certain 1y we had no intention of visiting 1t on the present trip, but being at Sousa, and seeing ship just ready to steam away to Tripoli-the very next south- ward port-the temptation was too great to be, resisted, especially when as- sured that the detour need occupy only four days time. We have planned for visiting Jerusalem, Jaffa, the Nile re- zion and incidentally Tripoli sometime next year; but the future is uncertain and perhaps 1t is wiser to miss none of the opportunities of to-day
 Tripoli stands in the midst of an oasis at the northward end of the great Libyan desert. So low and sandy is the shore that long before land is visi- ble, domes, towers and minarets appear to rise up out of the tranquil sea. Next stately palms and date trees are seen, overstopping ponderous walls; then few low rocks and a line of surf; and finally wide foundation of silvery beach and endless sands, It is the enly exception we have yet seen to the mag nificence of the bold coasts of the Med iterranean.. The City uf Tripoli, Cap ital of Mohammedan state of the same name, occupies a rocky promontory against which the waters beat on two sides. The harbor is formed by "a low reef which extends from this pro- montory. There are two or three breaks in the reef, which allow small boats to enter, but the main entrance is hid den from view in the readstead, around the extreme edge of the cape, Owing to rigorous quarantine laws (Tripoli being almost proscribed), most pas senger steamers do not call here at all, because to do so means twelve days in quarantine when returned to Christen- dom.
 We anchored outside the harbor en- trance, amid a crowd of Turkish gun boats and Greek feluccas, and hoisted the usual signal for the U. s. Consul, whose blessed stars and stripes could be plainly discerned, fluttering beside the red banner of the Sultan. On its land side, Tripoli is defended by massive wall, with bastions; and towards the sea it presents formidable array of strong forts, terminating at : i,, i,o,r1 c tellatred pile-the former residence of the Pasha. All the walls are dazzingly white and fairly bristling with cannon; while innumerable domes and tall graceful minarets, amid world of feathery foliage, gave us our first really Oriental view.
 Finally, when all the tedious prelinl- inaries had been gone through, we were permitted to squeeze through the har- bor entrance; between a line of Turkish gunboats, round the mole with it's drowning guns, and land at rude stone pier jutting out toward the har- Dor gate. Words fail in attempting to desrcibe the strange crowds that met us ashore-dark, repulsive, unfriendly faces; wild, savage, almost naked beg gars who did not ask, but demanded busksheesh; long robed Jews and groups of ebony slaves; and occasion ally swarthy Turk or Arab of better fortune, as proclaimed by this wonder fully rich costuming, but more to be feared than those of inferior power, if looks" speak truly. Donkeys passed us, laden with gigantic watermelons and driven by naked negro boys; and L pF 1a1c unloading--bales of silk, huge jars of oil, sponges, senna, wool, tobacco, ele- plants tusks skins of tigers and leopards; for the entire trade Of this Barbary state, as well ss all the inland commerce from Timbukto and Bornou, finds its outlet at Tripoli The present population is said to be about twenty tiousand-all Mohammedans, except a few Greeks and maronite Christians The city is built on both sides of the river Kadish among beautiful gardens and orchards of orange, lemon, apricot and apple trees. No place on earth seems to wonderfully fertile as an oasis of the desert Here water murmurs and sparkles everywhere and covores the surrounding plain with greenest yer dure. In the heart of Tripoli the streets are narrow passage-ways, like tunnels, winding under groined arches. The houses-many of which yet bear traces of American bombs and cannon balls-are very large and quaint, each like g. separate fortress, whose window less, incrutable fronts give no hint Of mysteries within. Of course there are mosques without number; the principal one (to which we could not gain admis- sion) being very large and handsome, topped by several small cupolas, Among the ancient landmarks is trl- umphal arch, or what remains of it, built of enormous blocks of marble which was erected A. D. 164, in honor of the Roman emperors, Aurellus An torlius and Lucius Verus This Tripoli- tan district became Roman colony soon after the fall of Carthage, about 15O years before the birth of Christ, and remained so till the fifth century.
 Happily, there is not much to see in the town, for the European stranger is in imminent danger of the plague, or some other deadly disease, which turks in those inconceivably dirty alleys. On top of a mound by the rivers bank stands the queer tomb of Sheikh Abu Nasr and opposite, on the other side of the stream rises the castle which C.ol,rt pavroond of Toulouse. built in