The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1901-03-03

6psdal Corssrondsnos Of Ths Sunday Republic.
Paris, Feb. ILLS there to be . re-
burn Of tho crinoline7
will reveal to you a secret: The wise
ones Of the realm Of fashion, those who
know that there must be no monotony
In style, are whispering among them
selves that skirts will shortly be or
dained to dare SO extensively mo other
word expresses IL, about the bottom
that there must, perforce, be a stiffness
that will hold its own
The history Of tho rise and fall Of the
crinoline is interesting. The entire his
tory Of dress in the century just closed
is interesting. However, that epoch in
which ~crinoline prevailed is what we
have to do with for the present.
This has ever been a fact in fashions
world: When a notion has been run to
the limit or extreme it is dropped, and
there is q gradual getting back to where
the notion began. OF late all stiffness
has been gradually done away with In
our skirts. Even starched petticoats
were tabooed. Stiff silks were put by
on the shelves and presently trotted out
and put IN the bargain counter at the
Lowest possible prices. Then the little
seven-inch-wide facing OF crinoline at
the bottom Of the skirt was left out,
and there was a fare, a soft and fluffy
fare, supplied by ruffes put on a foun-
dation skirt over which the top skirt
hung most gracefully. This little fare
was found very effective. Everybody
liked 1t. Now the flare Is growing, and
here we are to the first hint Of the
%crinoline that is to come:
To make the flare q decided fare, an
undoubted flare, you will notice-or you
would IL you were in Paris-that there
Is featherbone run into the ruffles on
both foundation skirts and %petticoats.
This is something the way the rise Of
the crinoline began long ago.. 1 Inn told
by one who remembers the early days of
~crinoline that nothing short of little iron
hoops, or steel If you please, were swung
into tucks at the bottom Of q skirt to
hold 1t out. Then the skirt was faced
up with the stifest Of crinoline. The
weight was something terrible. No
wonder the backs Of the fashionable
women were narrow and their shoulders
slopingl Fancy carrying such q weight
about ones hips! o
Finally there was Q thinner crinoline
put in skirts and the hoped petticoat
appeared. This at first only had q few
rings about the bottom, but gradually
the hoops crept up to the waist and
there you were. In a little time q hoop
skirt came to be spoken Of as "a crino-
line" No fashionable woman's ward
robe was complete without "a crino-
line"
Behold Q Summer Girl Of the early |
sixtiesi
Her likeness is presented on this page.
She Is hero shown in all the glory of
her newest Partisan clothes
The Summer Girl Of the early sixties
wore q pineapple lawn" Of a buff
shade. The favorite figuring for this |
was a rose, and II among your mothers
or grandmother's possessions there is a
scrap Of one Of these French lawns you
will behold 1t with wonder, for there is
nothing finer in texture or more deli |
cately beautiful in coloring to be found
to-day than n Of these lawns. The
nearest approach to the fabric nova
days is the lovely organdie that has been
employed SO %fetchingly for a number Of
summers past In the makeup Of airy
gowna
The Summer Girl Of the crinoline
period wore a big bonnet Of leghorn. It
came out over her face like a SCOOP, but
It was picturesque and becoming.
Against her hair, just in front under the
shadow Of the brim Of her bonnet, there
was fastened a cluster Of roses. A cur
tain OF lace fell over the edge of the
rim. There was q fichu about her Shout
ders and on her dainty hands there were
s7ace mitts."
To leave the cr1noline a moment, I
would ask, have you taken particular
notice Of the newest hats7 Well II you
have you then know that they are ex.
tremely fat In fact quite crownless.
Ask the older women Of your acquain-
ance II they remember the 'sun-down"
bats Of many years ago. These sun
down" hats were nat and tied down un.
der the chin. They were extremely
for garden and general outdoor