Evening star., 1901-10-16
OUR LEpER COLONY
Marine Hospital Service Hears OFF,
cia,ly of Its Condition
How THE AFFLICTED LIVE ON MOLOKAI
Hawaiian Board of Health Makes
Its Annual Inspection.
WHERE LIFE is PATHETIC

A most interesting account of an inspec-
ton of the leper settlement on the Island
of Molokai. Hawaii, has been made to the
marine hospital service by L. E. Cofer
chief quarantine officer of the Hawaiian
Islands. The visit made during the
month of September, on the invitation of
the Hawaiian territorial board of health.
1t is explsned that the board OF health
makes regularly annual visit to the set
tlement, and as everything is arranged be-
forehand for this inspection DR.. Cofer ex-
plains that one is able to see and learn
more in one day in following them in their
investigations than would be possible In q
week under ordinary circumstances. In DR.
Cofers narrative account of the trip he
says:
I'VE left Honolulu at pm. of Septem-
Der 6, and arrived at Kalaupapa about Z
o'clock the following morning. The leper
settlement is located upon, or may be said
In q general way to comprise tongue
shaped peninsula, which juts out into the
ocean from about the center Of the northern
coast of Molokai. This tongue of land is
shut off from the rest of the island by
mountain range, which extends east and
west along the northern coast, and which
presents to the and also to the leper
settlement a series of bold precipitous and
rugged cliffs, which rise to elevations vary
ing from 1900 to 5000 feet. The steamer
approaches the peninsula at a right angle,
thereby giving the observer an excellent
idea of the relation which 1t bears to the
rest of the island. Indeed, the sight i'll
the early morning is a very impressive one.
AS the sun rises, the peninsula is thrown
into a shadow, and the lofty cliffs are
| brought into bold relief The huge burrows
on the face of the precipice soon come into
view, causing one for the moment the va
gary that it too has assumed a leonine
connie after It's of vigil
over the unfortunates below and against
the escape of whom 1t has ever formed a
most discouragtng barrier. AS the steamer
draws nearer, the pretty little town of
kalaupapa comes into view. At a distance
1t looks like any prosperous little town,
but when the anchor is dropped one is near
enough to see the white cottages and
churches which are surrounded in most
instances by stone or lava fences inclosing
yards planted with tropical fruits and flow
ers. l was reminded of q summer resort
had seen somewhere. The shore ts lined
with large rocks, and, on account of the
almost constant northerly swell, is rather
dangerous to approach, even in small
boat, which, by the way, is the only means
of making landing. There were at least
40 lepers, the greater part of them gaiiy
dressed and decorated with flowers Qeis),
gathered at the landing to meet us. The
leper band WAS playing, and things in gen.
eral took on the appearance of country
fair.
''The crowd had gathered both In an
ticipation Of the visit of the board of health
and to greet their friends and relatives
who had made the trip with l was i'm
mediately struck by the fact that while
saw number of distorted faces, indeed
some even In frightful condition, j did
not see an unhappy one. saw several lep-
ers with their faces furrowed and distort-
ed beyond recognition, wearing white duck
trousers and straw hats Of the most mod
ern shape. these latter adorned, as is al
most inevitable In Hawaii, with leis. Not
1, hi,
bination of Hawaiian holiday dress and lep-
rosy, one could not but admire the hopeful
and cheerful way in which these poor peo-
pie resigned themselves to their fate. Be
1t said to the credit of some one that such
contentment can only thrive on q comfort
able mode of life and good treatment.
A Beautiful Spot.
THE peninsula has area of eight
square miles, being only a very small part
Of the Island Of Molokai, with it's area Of
261 square miles. / mention this because a
great many have the impression that the
whole of Molokai Is given up to the segre-
cation of lepers. The breadth Of the base
of the peninsula where 1t joins the cliffs is
two and three-quarter miles, breadth at the
center two and one-half, and length, one
mile.
1.-The soil is composed of disentegrated
lava and sand, and with irrigation is very
productive. The village Of Kalaupapa is
situated on the western shore not far re-
moved from the face of the cliff, and on the
eastern shore similarly situated is the town
Of Kalawao Between these towns, but
nearer to Kalaupapa than to Kalawao, is
the extinct orator Of Kahukoo. This rises
to an elevation of 4e3 feet above the sea
level, and Is supposed to have formed dur
ing its period of activity the land on which
the leper settlement now stands
The village Of Kalawao is exposed to
the full force of the usually prevailing
northeast trade winds. and on this account
presents rather bleak appearance. 1t is
said that during the winter months the cn-
mate here is most unpleasant, being bleak,
cold and rainy.
"Kalaupapa, on the other hand, is protect
ed by the crater of Kahukoo. and, being
further removed from the mountains, has
the benefit Of the suns rays. The tropical
vegetation and the abundance of grass here
show the good climatic advantages which
this place possesses.
About 900 lepers live In Kalaupapa, and
probably one-third Of this number in Kala-
wac. They have, however, taken up their
houses here and there throughout the pen
insula. giving to the latter In general the
appearance Of an eastern suburban town.
"A great many of the lepers have saddle
horses, and some Of them very good ones
The board Of health hired enough of them
to mount the whole party, and we were
soon ON our tour of inspection. Our first
trip was to Waikolu valley, where the board
of health taro patches are located. On ac-
count of the scarcity Of taro throughout the
Islands the board of health has undertaken
it's cultivation for the lepers since 1897. This
is done under the supervision of Mr.. Rey-
nolds, the superintendent Of the settlement,
and the labor is performed by the lepers,
who are paid for this at current rates
From this valley comes the water sup
ply for the whole settlement. From springs
in the mountain side an eight-inch pipe car
ries at the present time 100000 gallons of
water daily. 1t is said that the develop
ment of ten times this quantity would be
possible. The party next visited the town
OF Kalawao. I do not believe / ever took
horseback ride affording such a variety
of scenery In such short space Of time
The trip across from Kalaupapa to Kain-
wac was not unlike a trip across tie roll
ing country in Virginia, but suddenly, with
little warning, we were in a narrow bride
path with the waves dashing at the horses
feet on one side and on the other our ell
bows touching the absolutely perpendicu-
lar precipice rising nearly 5000 feet.
Grand as the sight was. It is said that
after a rain storm, when the sides of the
cliff have numerous cascades shooting from
them into the space below, the effect is
much finer. The scenery suddenly changes
when the Waikolu valley is entered This
gorge which is shut in on three sides by
towering ramparts OF rock, with its floor
OF green taro, terraced upward and back