The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1901-01-20
DRIFT OF FASHION.
Styles Change Slowly, Passing Grad
uaIIy from One to Another.

New York Evening Post.
The Duse coil, arranged low at the nape
of the neck. is revived among other novel
evening coiffures.
The inch-wide strips of costly fur are in
constant use IN the making of dressy win
ter gowns and wraps. These are little more
than a narrow fringe, yet they very
effective. White cloth vests, collars at
tached to rounded Jokes or guimpes, also
sleeve cuffs and plastrons trimmed with
gold braid or otherwise decorated, have a
tiny border of fur finish. This forms
stylish and becoming garniture, requiring
but little cloth braid; and inch-wide
band of fur is not extravagant, even when
of the finest grade, as less than two yards
will impart a rich and pretty effect to the
neck, sleeves and revers or the plainest
cloth costume.
The devotees of fashion are making the
most of the svelt and clinging effects In
queen of style may change her mind and
launch forth into voluminous effects
paniers, looped-up draperies, and other
will disguise every curve and outline of the
figure. But whatever within may possess
her later on, we are assured of continue
ton of the willowy clinging style of gown
ing for at least one more season.
1t is hardly correct to assert that "elec-
trlc seal quite equals In appearance the
genuine pelt Even the very finest London
dressed electric" seal is less glossy and
the shading of color less beautiful than the
true fur. But the substitute is eminently
pleasing to the eye, and just as warm and
comfortable as it's magnificent rival. / am
abiding now to the finest 1uality, which
is a very good, durable, and becoming
investment for those who are not able to
buy sealskin. These grades are neither
tawdry nor common looking in any sense,
and they are superior in looks, and last
much longer than any Of the silk-face, lin
en-back velvetS which one sees everywhere
In the guise of capes. Jackets, .alid coats
Accordion-pleating is more highly favored
this season than 1T has ever been. 1t is
used in more ways than formerly; for in
with accordion-pleated chiffon, with a full
frill JUS at the edge, on the inside of the
wrap. They form entire waists and skirts,
and as these pleatings are now very clever
ly laid they do not interfere at all with
the lines of the figure. They are strapped
with lace or satin or velvet IibbOn, unless
the wearer is very slender. In this case
the pleats are left to fall free the entire
length or the skirt; the pleated blouse being
snugly belted, the sleeves md neck dra-
peries in many cases being formed of ac-
contemplated ruffies and long scarf-pieces
of the dress fabric, with handsome lace
garniture5 at the ends. Charming ball
wraps for the shoulders are made of white
and brocades, the Henri II pelerine other
small elegant CONNECTION almost covered
with accordion-pleatings of crepe Iisse,
chiffon, or mouSseline briiliante.
Small dainty turnover collars, larger col
larettes, twice-around ties Directoire and
Empire bows and ruffles. are made up of
every sort of material. White and butter
colored batiste embroidery and lace are
combined in every shape and size for dressy
neck trimmings, and all these styles are
repeated again in chiffon, point esprit, ac-
cOrdion-pleated mousSeine de sole, and In
dia mull-plain and delicately embroidered
I'M nnl md nr1ff 10 xr-if6 foil
gowns are trimmed round a little above
| the edge with guipure insertion tiny
| line of fine hand-embroidered; and sheer
| India lawn, with insertions and edgings of
Valenciennes, is made into pretty frills or
Vandykes, that's set i'm on either side of
| the folded stock collar. In more elaborate
| neck garnitures the richest of lace-edgings,
| bands, and appliqueS are used; the fichuS,
| berthas, plastrons, and other fanciful pieces
| further enhanced with velvet ribbon bands
and choux, the draperies caught here and
| there with gold, opal, pearl, and other
| slides, buckles, lacepins, etc. Velvet rib
| bon of every width is lavishly used. and on
| very expensive French fichus, collarettes,
| and real lace are clusters of full ostrich
| tips. rose sprays, and jeweled appliques.
The quaint simplicity of the improved En-
pire gown lends itself so naturally and
gracefully to the supple silks and satins,
| crepe de chene silk veilings, chiffons, and
similar diaphanous textiles over satin slips,
| that the continued and increasing popular
| ity of their various notifications for GER
| tain uses is not to be wondered at. The
new princesse dresses, with Greek draperies
| and slender Vatican effects on the back,
| in place of the former ugly broad pleat of
/ equal width from the shoulders down, is
| another style which is greatly favored both
here and abroad. Lace net, mousseline de
| soie creped satin, India null, and crepe
/ de chine over taffeta, faille India or MUS
covite silk foundations are particularly Ell
| fective when made with these classic dra-
peries, and no model can be devised that Is
4 Incoming
/ ure or one that Is not so slender even tnan
/ the princesse form OF dress On slightly
| of artistic elegance The skirts OF the new
est models are extremely full around the
feet, and with only. very few exceptions
| the princesse gowns for full-dress wear are
| decollete, some with long wrinkied NOUS
| quetaire sleeves. others with elbow sleeves
/ and again with a short cap, pun or deft
1 drapery of lace.
| To women of fine taste and sound judg-
| ment there is little or use in recommend
i ing any sudden or radical change in dress.
| Fashion evolves growing imperceptibly
/ from one state into another IL comes or
| it does not come independently or any
/ visible law or cause. The movements OF
/ great bodies of people. the phases in at
| tire. the vogue and popularity or hat or a
wrap, the rise and fall OF the sleeve col
/ shoe. the length of glove-all
/ appear and disappear without any visi-
| BILE hand as a moving agent Wno Is La
Mode?' is question often asked, ana who
vet ever satisfactorily answered the ques-
| tom Men like Beau Brummel or Lord By
ron some Of the DID, famous painters.
| and those of very marked popularity and
pronounced individuality d. most certainly
influence dress and fashion The deeply
arched Mary Stuart bonnet, the bodice and
neck ruff OF Queen Bess. the Marie Antoi-
F! nette fichu and the coiffure of the Empress
Josephine were strikingiy original and
becoming that their names have continued
TO cling 70 them. But there are no more
Count D'Orsays no more Sevisnes. Mod
ern fashions are like the winds of heaven.
We know not whence they come or whittier
they go. and when styles are created and
they now emanate less from royal person
ages and brilliant library and social
sources than from shining lights upon the
opernf1o ana dramatic cf1Ge~