The daily morning journal and courier., 1901-11-15

the desert from Kseb Owing to { Wretched accommoda tions, crowded with camel tarins which have brought
 the above mentioned ostrich feathers, | ivory, etc, to port from the far interior
 you will not care to remain in Mog-
 ador minute longer than is necessary
 to make arrangements for the overland
 journey of 125 miles to the southern 1 capital.
 In these parts, you seldom hear the | City of Morocco spoken of by the name
 under which it figures on the maps.
 The natives call it Marakash the
 Spaniards, Mar-roo- ah-ko; the French, Marok. The city, at an elevation of
 perhaps two thousand feet, is ap preached across a great green plain,
 which looks the greener by contrast to
 deserts passed-for in this land of con-
 tradictions barren sands and spots of
 Incredible fertility appear to be scat
 tered about hap-haZZard, with no ap-
 parent reason for either. This part of
 the Empire happens to be surprisingly
 productive, with blooming gardens, rich
 plantations olive groves and orchards
 stretching to the very base of the At
 las peaks. The words of the dear old
 hymn-"Where every prospect pleases
 and only man is vile"-recur often to
 mind on this journey. Under the bluest
 and brightest skies in the world, at just
 the right latitude and elevation for per
 petual summer without excessive heat,
 the climate is ideal; never a hint of
 frost in the air, the warmest days tenn
 pered by ocean breezes, and very rarely
 Tho if bn caorohtnp SirOnnoS
 which make life a burden on the other
 side of the Atlas range. What a pity
 that this most beautiful part of Moroc-
 CO., whose dry and even temperature is declared by European physicians to be an almost unfailing panacea, for con- sumptives, should be inaccessible to those whom it would most benefit, be- cause of the undying hostility of the people toward all outsiders. The fierce antipathy of the Arabs for everything denominated Christian keep foreign CTS in perpetual peril of their lives, be- sides subjecting them to endless insult and annoyance which an invalid could not endure.
 Nothing more imposing can be imag- | ined than the City of Morocco as seen ! across the plain, the minarets of its nineteen mosques shining white against the azure sky. The six mile circuit of it's lofty walls has a huge square tower at every fifty paces-all built of indis- timetable tappia, 0ime, beaten with earth in case or frame) on founda- tions of massive masonry. There are eleven gates in the wall, each specially defended and so narrow as to remind one of the parable concerning the camel | and the needles eye The entire space inside is not covered by dwellings, but there are many gardens and large open some of the latter twenty to thirty acres in extent. The streets-like those of Fez, without the vine clad, draped arbors-are excessively narrow, irregular and mostly unpaved. Houses of tappia, with a few of stone, are commonly one-storied, all flat-roof- ed and with whitewashed exteriors, presenting blank walls to the street, with here and there a small, unglazed aperature, set too high for curious eyes to peer into, doing duty as windows. You are particularly struck by the great number of ruins-half of the city ap- fallen down, furnishing a sad example of what war, pestilence and nisrule can do. But you are constantly meeting with proofs of the artistic genius of the early Moors in moldy ,tucco, exquisite wood carvings, tile work and time-softened colorings. The ,ity, you know, was founded about the year 1070, and in its glory must have been worthy of Haroun al Roasch-id ts populatio has dwindled from sev- ,ral hundred thousand to perhaps sixty figures being necessarily guessed at, as a census was never talk n. Of it's sanitary arrangements dur ng all those centuries-one may say of hem as did the old writer in his chap CT on the snakes of Ireland--"There re none" The streets are never clean d, except by few of natures scaven- , ,ers. Windows being regarded as a , dangerous. if not irrelegrous innova- ion, the houses are entirely unventil- ated, and no doubt many secluded wo- nen and children in the crowded . arems die from sheer luck of fresh air nd sunshine. Perhaps 1t is a wise pro- = ision in natures economy that female ',
 births outnumber males in the pronortI