The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-10-07
For AUTUMN BRIDES
The Wedding Gown Is Departing
From It's Traditions.
What widows and Less Picturesque
Mourncrs Are Expected 10 Lament
In-Wnfcrproof Crepe Special
Bcon-The Ethereal Shoulder Scarf
for slender Mntrons :s=I Maids.

This is the season for brides to plan
their inery. The modistes run their fin
gers through the folds Of finest lace. while
and signs with anticipation. an interested
spectator
All the bridal traditions are violated
this season, and we are having brides
such as never were seen before in the
world of fashion.
Never before have the necks OF bridal
gowns been cut lower than the chin, yet
this season they are rounded below the
throat, and are even low enough TO show
an inch Of the neck soft chiffon stock
may be worn if desired, for there are
many brides who simply will not depart
from tradition to the extent of wearing
the low neck.
In another respect the brides of the
autumn of 1900 are departing from time
honored custom. They are wearing the
soft smooth satin-faced goods in place
of the traditional white satin. Can you
imagine a material as fine as silk, as
glossy as satin, and as pliable as yelling?
That is the new bridal material 1t is
grade, surely such as was never seen be-
fore. They are making glossy henrietta
that is beautiful for bridal gowns; and
then there are the new nuns yeilings, all
beautiful and fashionable.
Chiffon Grapes nicely over these ma
terials and looks well with them; SO also
does lace, which is the bridal stun.
The brides trousseau of the season of
1900 consists largely of the small things
IF dreS= Instead Of dozen OF all
kinds of underwear there are more era
vats more neckers. more collarettes, and
more vests. Ten dozen would not be too
many of these articles il all were eDumer-
ated. Ard the reason for this Is appar-
emit With the new bodices of the season
there is required separate yoke, often
a separate vest and with these must go
neck arrangements.
From brides to mcurners is a far leap,
but their weeds are of equal if not as
delightful value to widows as the we'd
ding fnery is to the happy bride. The
making of a mourning gown is study by
itself, and the result Of going TO dress
maker who does not understand the art
is a garment OF ugliness unsurpassed.
Only the most experienced can manipulate
sombre stuffs into interesting gowns. II
one has 20 be made and worn it may just
as well De becomingly constructed. To
er than ever before, and the fact that the
beautiful English crepes are now water
PROCEED greatly enlarges the sphere of
work. This wateTproohng of crepe is
boon to women who cannot afford to
srend large sums on Their mourning Crepe
which has not passed through this pro-
cess becomes shabby all too soon, and has
to be replaced. II is now possible to have
the entire costume, including the jacket
of this erstwhile frail material, and TO
feel that one is not extravagant, for al
though the price is not low, the garments
made from it are not injured by damp
ness, and wear as we'll as if of some
sterner fabric.
Ii the entire gown is of crepe. the lining
must be of black taffeta. and this lining
of the skirt must not be detached-when
the costume is partly of crepe and partly
of wooden material, such as Endora cloth,
Melrose cloth, or drap d'Alma, the crepe
is always used for the loop of the waist,
that is. it forms a yoke. or guimpe, or
bolero. The sleeves are also of this ma
terial, or trimmed with it. while the skirt
has a deep appliqued founce en- forme or
bands. Sometimes these bands are en-
broidered with ruches of mousseiine de
sole.
French mourning permits many depart
Jackets and eapes may be lined with white
satin and skirts with white taffeta.
beautiful imported house gown OF recent
Gate was of white crepe de chine, over
which was worn a long blouse of black
nnousseliue de sole pleated and mounted
upon yoke embroidered in black silk.
The autumn scenery of an up-to-date
shop window shows the new shoulder scarf
in every fabric and line. The handsom-
est are Of India gauze crusted with gems
that float from the bare arms and neck
Of the wearer like a cloud of jeweled mist
The scarf has been brought TO the front
by inventive modistes for tie benefit OF
skinny maids and NATIONS who want to go
bare neck but-"dasn't" The dress. decol-
lete, is worn, and the vaporous folds of
the scarf. knotted with loose grace-the
knot over that deepest hollow known as
the salt cellar''-giYes the appearance Of
having been thrown on instead OF being
adjusted with the greatest care.
When a scarf is not worn a tulle collar
with very big wired bow of the same
cobwebby fabric at the back or 10 one
side takes its place and duties. while for
a very slim white neck the receipt is a
single string Of pearls at the base, and as
high up as possible. close under the chin,
a circlet OF black bebe velvet ribbon tied
at one side.