Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-05-26

Special Correspondence
Toledo spain. Aprl 70 lsoo.-It is a
tedious Journey from Merida to this
loue.extIngulshod Light Of the World,
with little TO recommend it OF scenic
beauty and nothing Of comfort You
may choose between two routes-one
following the Guadiana river most OF
the way. the other the Tagus both
necessltaung many changes OF cars
our party decided upon the much short'
or route Of the Guadiana, though half
Of II retraced our steps over the monot-
onous plains 30 lately trayersed. The
pleasant English family with whom we
Joined forces az Cadlz for the tour OF
spain. preferred the roundabout route
10 Toledo. via Badajoz and Caceres, as
1t led through unvislted territory The
parting arrangement was that we, who
expected 10 arrive at least day IN adj
vance Of the others. SHOULD secure
quarters for all In the Fonda Imperial
said to be the best hotel IN Toledo-and
have apartments waiting for our be-
lated friends. When we finally reached
the ultima thule. some twenty hours
later bedraggled and worn from sit
ting bolt upright two long nights IN the
uncomfortable day cars-we were met
az the station by the English party
fresh and trim after a nights rest IN
the hotel, they having arrived on the
previous afternoon. However this eX-
perlence does not establish rule 10
20 by for the longest way around ~
by no means always "the surest IN
this land OF manana.
Most Of the Spanish railways were
built by French capital al enormous
cost: and all who have suffered from
them will agree that they are about the
worst constructed and mlsmanaged
railways on the face OF the earth, They
appear to be run solely for the amuse-
meut Of the employees, tarrying long in
unexpected places for no dlscoverable
reason and paying not the slightest
heed 10 making connections. And the
most aggrayating thing 10 the foreigner
Is that nobody cares the least little bit
for his troubles. Native passengers,
never having known any better service,
take the unnecessary delays quite as
matter Of course and utterly fail 10
comprehend why any traveller should
raise rumpus over so tfifling an incl
dent as missing the through train
thereby having 20 sit up another night
IN the common coach-merely because
the train waited a couple Of hours at
crossroads junction for some powerful
hldalgos wife 10 get her children
ready for a ride 10 the next town.
But even the creeping pace OF ten
miles an hour-the average speed" OF
these trains. II one may 50 misuse a
worlds better than the old way OF
donkey-back transit In crossing such
dreary regions as the plains OF CASTLE
and La Mancha;and In pleasanter parts
Of the country, the traveller blesses the
glowness which enables him 20 enjoy the
prospect longer. The rate Of progress
Il usually restricted by law. on account
Of the danger Incurred by the spread
ing OF rails exposed 10 the full heat OF
the sun on sandy plains but though
the law vigorously discourages speed,
Il has nothing TO say IA regard to keep
lng up with schedule time and fulfilling
contracts with tlcket-buyers Fifty
years ago there were only twenty kllO-
metres OF railway IN the whole country.
Now about nine thousand kilometres
are IN operation and half as many more
under concession. The best stations are
extremely poor, and the hlthlness Of
every place 70 which servants and
spanish passengers OF every class have
access, Is notorious. Most trains have
one better and somewhat cleaner coach.
labeled 'Reservado para Senoras"--re-
served for ladies. Another singular fea-
lure II small, square, close. carriage,
attached 10 some trains, containing
two tiny compartments set side by side
marked Para Seniors" and Para SEN
ores." All the railway officials, from
guards 10 brakeman, ride "frst-class
often occupying half the available space
10 the carriage and always the best
seats. whatever may become Of the poor
passengers who have paid extortlonate
charges. packed like sar1ines IN a box.
And then the internal trouble with
luggage would cause an Archangel 10
inislay his temper. Indeed. the least
you carry about Of either commodity
luggage or temper-On tourney
through Spain. the better for your
pleasure, Each passengey Is permitted
10 take In with him into the coach one
satchsl, or bundle and the rest OF hts
baggage Is relegated 10 the van. De-
lays at the stations In getting baggage
ready TO pass. satisfying customs OFF,
Gals and paying extra charges Tor over
weight are most voXauous and cause
you 10 miss many a train; and as no
checks are given. and robberies Of lug
gage are frequent, you win find II well
70 put no valuables into your trunks.
The soft answer that turneth away
wrath Is particularly needed here, often
accompanied by a soothing influence
Oh silver peso, and always by the ex-