The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-23
FASHIONS GOLDEN RULE
Autumn Toilets Are Suggestive of
SOlOmOn'S Mines.
II Is to BE Understood That All Tint
Brass Make Gorgeous limitations
The Revival of the Russian Blouse
Short skirts and Wide Hat Brims.

Men may OF may not eHuOTSe the BolG
standard, but woman, lovely woman
means to leave nothing undone this
autumn to show which way her heart, OF
fashion, which sometimes mean the same
thing, goes in the matter of the metal
She is for gold, gold, gold. She does not
mean to wear one of those fluffy little
knots of lace or net in her hair unless ii
is only carried out IN gilt Her jackets
and bodices are to be as full of brass
buttons as though she were an p-to-date
page. Tiny gold buckles and bullion
tassels will help TO adorn her pretty home
toilets, and there is whisper that she
will even go so far in her love of the new
fad as to wear gilt buttons on her shoes.
There Is always a reason of some sort for
a fashion though it is often as light as
the plot of comic opera. The over
whelming popularity of gold has nothing
whatever to do with American politics,
but is the result of a sympathy for the
army that developed at the time of the
affaire Dreyfus, and led to a craze for
the military in dress-brass buttons, gold
braids. and even epaulettes, If you will
1t is gravely asserted that the friendli
ness between France and Russia has led
the Partisan moulders of fashion plates
to fresh enthusiasm in designing the Rus
sian fiounce, which was distinctly the
rage a year or two ago, and is to return
in its panoply of gold braid, smarter and
more captivating than ever.
One particularly fetching model is OF
Cossack green velvet lined with satin of
a dafntfer tone There is a straight high
collar and a diagonal band from the left
of the shoulder to the right side of the
belt that is crusted with gold thread en-
broidery in arabesque design. A wrought
girdle of velvet confines the pouchey
front. The blouse is suitable for any
handsome skirt. Later in the winter the
gold passementerie might give place to
bands of Russian fur.
This use OF gold is by far the most
striking feature of the autumn fashions,
and the effects obtained are exceedingly
good. but in commenting on the glittering
aspect of the clothes world a writer IN
New York Sun" wonders how the gold
galore and entre-deux and embroidery will
stand wear and weather. On carriage and
house gowns it may be serviceable enough,
but ii is fairly safe to predict that many
of the street gowns and coats now being
fashioned will look like relics of the war
OF 1872 before holiday time. Where ii is
only a question of renewing gold braid
this detection may not cause much trou-
BILE, but the new gowns and coats are
wonderfully and felrfully made, and
many of them will be ruined beyond re-
pair, if the gold in their trimmings plays
them false. 1t is well for the woman of
moderate income TO bear this phase of the
problem in mind when ordering her au-
tumn outfit, and TO use gold trimming that
may easily be freshened or replaced. An
other thing to remember is the fact that
it is the poorest economy TO buy cheap
tinsel trimming. Even the best furnishes
badly enough, and the cheap gold is prac-
tically worthless.
The new neekwear which is blossoming
out in bewildering profusion just now
shows innumerable touches of gold.
Tucked stocks OF white or colored S TX
have a narrow line of gold applique or
braid at the top and cravat of gold rib
bon, from whose ends bangle tiny gold
balls or tassels. Other stocks are of lace
outlined with gold and have soft silk
scarf cragats, with ends appliQued with
lace. Chiffon and mousseline jaDots and
knots are edged with narrow gold lace,
while the accompanying chiffon stock has
a line of gold next the throat. Collars
are made entirely of cloth of gold or gold
braid, with line of velvet around the
throat and a narrow cravat strap of vel
vet fastening with gold buckle. Plas-
irons and collars of gold cloth embroi-
dered in Oriental colors are shown in
the shops, and are exceedingly effective
inside dark coat bodices or with the pop
ular white serge costumes.
Many of the new gowns have a rather
severe pouched bodice laced across con-
trasting vest with soft heavy gold cord
and the lacing is continued down the
skirt over petticoat front, matching the
vest. Plain, long sleeves are slit from
the Shoulder to the elbow in order to in
troduce the lacing over an under sleeve
of the secondary color.
Bold. decided effects are the decree of
the moment; the eye is wearIed with the
pale, pastel tones. Autumn herself is foe
10 watery unts. to hesitations, and ques-
tionings; the ford and the strong are now
to have their day.
A tailor frock in russell green serge has
a blouse that pouches slightly in front
after the revised Russian fashion. Three
shoulder capes add chic to the blouse, each
being lined with white satin and edged
with gold braid.
Big gold buttons fssten the blouse and
show an under blouse of ecru lace threaded
with gold. There is girdle of gold tissue
that folds around the waist and the skirt
is finished with narrow ruffies lined with
white and edged with gold
Young as is the season, fur fashions are
already well defined. Like last winter. this
to say. very few Of the fur garments win
be made Of one kind of skin. Otter jackets
will have ehinchilla collars and revers
The new sealskin coats are almost invaria.
bly, made with at least the revers in a
contrasting kind of fur.
revival of red is predicted for fall
and winter, broadcloth and camel's hair
taking the lead. The most pronounced
in skirts is the introduction Of
-
broidery.
We are also promised shorter skirts.
wider hat brims, and sleeves showing
palmer and closer on the shoulder and
bigger and fuller at the wrist While we J
are on fall fashions we must not omit
that very important parsonage, the golf |
girl. She has grown so very important |
that we have her with us the whole wear
through. Her golf clothes are many, and |
/ saw q very pretty golf en-
thusiast coming out of Schenley Park |
dressed in short white skirt, white |
pique shtrtwaist, tan shoes, and green |
in very few weeks this sum-
mer maid will be looking around for |
something more substantial in outer gar |
nents.
Golf capes for autumn wear show vivid
,olors and have grown decidedly In length. |
Many are finished with bands of stitched |
leather or a deep fringe. The golf girl |
nas fads that are all her own. She has |
l set of buckles especially made for her
after her own design to fasten said cape
and belt. She is no longer content with a
plain canvas or leather caddy bag. She |
Is now having this bag to match her skirt
II the same material.
little French touch to our fall cos
tunes will be dainty little bags made of
loft suede, or pretty colored leather
n ling rxcld nh.ir