davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-05-05

oar with the ease Of college eight, and
otherwise did everything that a woman
should not do according to the narrow con.
ception of the day, and disd2ined the eff
name. 1t became the habit to give ones
woman friend the epithet which seemed best
to suit her nature. One was called the
leopard another LYNX" and so on
were termed "Lionnes,' and liked it. Their
cavaliers addressed them Familiarity as INA
Lionne ma Savage" and gave the foot
man the title mon Tigre'' because he was
the natural defender of ma Lionne."
The Early Bachelor Girl.
These women were not the fast Set" par
ticularly, but We're tired Of the conventions
alities of hollow sham called Society
and struck for larger liberty. They were
the forerunners of the liberated" or bach
elor girl of today-she who crickets and
bowls, who plays tennis and rides a wheel,
who races her own stable and manages her
own ranch, who goes in for politics and
philanthropy, and, when the spirit moves,
entertains like "a queen and charms like a
siren.
From this empire age of dress we get a
glimpse of the responsiveness of the ten
dency toward superlatives also One writer
speaks of a piece of cashmere as divine"
in quality. One might almost imagine that
1t was a Washington school girl, apostro-
phfzng bolt of ribbon as grand" or a
senatorial pyrotechnic display as lovely"
A writer of the empire speaks OF a noted
general as lovely fighter" and of cock
fight he makes woman say that her IA
vorite was most sweet in the manner that
he put to rout his cowardly opponent" 1t
Is not possible that a Connecticut avenue
young lady could have plagiarized the CEN
fury ago belle when she last Friday told in
a street car of the perfectly sweet way in
which Dido bit at the dog catcher, till he in
fright let the poor little dear co.
Ihe rainy day dress is not new idea. It
is simply htdeous old one simplifed and
ldealZed. Queen Victoria might have worn
the dress, which Illustrates the sensible
ideas of her girlhood. 1t was far from be-
ing as elegant as some of the dresses of
To-day are, but it was an advance on the
White muslins, the bare necks and arms,
and the low slippers which preceded it,
ana winch were Worn on all occasions The
big hat of 1929 is now reserved for the
pachydermous skinned woman at the opera,
and the wind has been taken out of the
balloon sleeves, but the idea is the same
Best of All Now.
One must admit, too, that the golf and
athletic dresses of the present are a vast
Improvement of those of the day when Vic
toria had not yet dreamed of the diadem
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-05-05
SILVER SPANGLES
Both Gowns and Hats Glisten With
Them Now.
CONTRAST BETWEEN OLD and new
Fancies That Delighted More Than
a Century Ago.
DAME FASHION IN REVIEW

Written for The Evening Star.
Il want an evening gown, madam, that
will be elegant and not SNOWY, yet mark
me as woman of exquisite taste" And
madam proceeds to design a beflounced and
beruffied costume over which spangles are
thrown in profusiOn.
please show me one of your large pic
ture hats" orders my lady at her milliner's.
and the umbrella-like affair, literally COW
cred with spangles. is trotted out by pref
ty maiden. Yes, remarks my lady, after
critical examination, 81 like the theme, but
the color harmony is not to my taste. Make
me one in mauve, spangied with silver,
with an aigrette spangled with silver, and
rolls Of silver-spangled tulle. Now I want
a small dress bonnet" The obsequious
madam brings from its nest of soft silk
paper tiny tulle tnque, all a-glitter with
crystal drops. and minute pink rosebuds
In the heart Of each u single diamond-Iike
drop, and the long tulIe strings sparkling
with spangIes like splinIers of moonshine
and my lady takes il.
II reminds one Of ii little poem that ap-
peared in "A French journal in 1900 Trans
lated it runs as follows:
"Spangles on the caps.
ON the todUes,
On the little bodices,
SDansies.
On the soft hair bands,
On the large hats.
Spaugles.
On the black necklaces.
On the white shoes,
Spangles.
Span%les on the ribbons.
On the turbans:
Nothing TO be seen
Without spangIes,''
Nothing to be seen without spangles'
Just exactly expresses the condition today
OF all costuming fabrics Of dressy nature.
but the world has not gone mad for glitter
and show. 1t is just repeating itself, only
at much less cost than when it had its su-
preme spangle craze a century ago. 1t is
related of one profigate monarch that he
had the priceless point lace of his robes of
state dew-dropped with diamonds, which
often ripped or and got lost under foot
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-05-05

without stockings as any other way. Mad
anne Brabant, writing of Madame Tallien
ir whose home Josephine first met Napo-
leon, says that at one of the Francati balls
Madame Tallien Wore an Athenian gown
and on her barred feet were sandals laced
with ribbon up to the knee, where were
gold circlets worn as garters. Today the
stocking is of palest pink. and the sandal
beWltching high-heeled strapped slipper.
1t is quite the thing now for people to go to
church in ra1ny-day attire and even in hi
cycle costume, If they are out on wheels
and the spirit so moves them. At some
suburban churches along the shady lanes
and bywayS that bicyclers frequent will be
found convenient racks for wheels, and the
up-to-date divines cordially invite pleasure
seekers to rest awhile under the sacred roof.
OId-Time Rainy Daisies
This. too, was a fashion century ago
yes, longer than that in the PASTOR it is
In the "Lady's Magazine" printed during
the French revolution, that a writer COM
plains bitterly of the disposition of women
to attend church in their riding habits In
querulous spirit he says: Riding habits are
very frreverent in u place Of divine wor-
ship, for although long custom has estab-
lished that the ladies' heads shall be COW
cred with bonnets or hats in church as well
as elsewhere, yet do not conceive that this
privilege extends to the wearing of riding
hats, which are part Of the riding habit,
and which do not differ in appearance from
tne round mats worn by men, but never
worn by men in church. / am of the opin-
ion holden by the Spectator in one of his
papers that we ought to keep fashions as
much as possible out of the church; there
are so many other places, indeed, such as
opera, the theaters, balls, concerts, ridot-
tus. routs and hurricanes, where We may be
as fashionable and properly fashionable
as We please that would be for reseryine
plain simplicity and a decency in garb for
our places Of religious worship
We copy empire customs as we'll as fash
ions. it would seem; for sparkling French
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-05-05

writer says of that period when everybody
in the official and financial. world of Paris
Wed in the splendor of their entertainments
just exactly what might be said of Wash
ington in the height of the season: Persons
of large fortune still indulge their petty
vanity by entertaining crowds of people
There is a mania for having great many
at ones table, mob i'm ones drawing
room, for having it gsaid sail Paris was
there for extorting from those who pass
by the rows of lighted windows the ad-
miring cry, how grand! How happy the
folk in there must be- And vet everybody
at these parties yawnse and Is half dead of
boredom and if it We're not for the sorry
conceit of being able to say Yesterday I
was at the Due de VS. BALI I dined with
to stay at home. IS -
Lions and Tigers.
We use a word today which was born of
the empire2in fact, two words. One is
lion when referring to one who is dis
tingushed in any field of art or science or
letters, or woman who has made a social
success. The other Is tiger meaning the
figure who sits with folded arms and a de-
meanor, in my lady's carriage, with the APP
pearance of being 1T" In the early days
of the empire, when lavish display and rapid
living had enervated the men till they
thought only of their attire their ribbons
medals. laces and equipages. the bouquet of
their wines. verses to my lays eyes and
Sonnets to her inStep, there grew IN a set
of women who were termed the 'lionnes -
They rode like Arabs they drank like fish
fenced welded a cane, shot with pistols,
smoked like a factory chimney, handled an
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-05-05
LATE PARIS MODES
Virtues and Style of Khaki Cloth
Extolled.
new TAILOR-MADE TAFFETA GOWNS
ChantiIIy Lace Again Worn, and
Shows Its Age.
OTHER LEADING FANCIES


PARIS, April 81, 1900.
Outing gowns of all sorts are made of the
inevitable Khaki cloth. The strength of the
fabric and it's ability to conceal the effects
of weather, wear and CRIME are qualities
that cannot fail to recommend it for use
in the making of outing gowns. Bicycle
costumes of the khaki cloth are very sim
pie They have the plaits artfully disposed
behind and the lower part of the skirt os-
tentatiously hemmed and stitched. The
skirts are a good length, with no unseemly
display of ankles. The jackets are, Of
course, short. According to the taste of the
wearer they vary from the Elton and bo-
lero jackets to the little coats with straight,
round basQues
Golf gowns are made with stitched bands
across the bottom of the skirts, sometimes
brought around and up the side The
Jackets are made with basQues and button
up the front in double-breasted fashion
The tabled fronts are sometimes seen fin
tshed off with handsome stitchings The
gay red coats so popular a short time ago
nave altogether disappeared; no really
smart woman wears them.
In Riding Coats.
The Jackets worn with riding habits have
much more of the coat effect. A narrow
band of stitching may be seen around the
lower part of the skirt, which is only of
moderate length. and outlining the sleeve
wrist or on the laDels. but the most happy
effects are accomplished with no ornamen-
tation at all. A smooth derby hat should
crown the head of the modiSh equest rienne
/ noticed quite pretentious bicycling cos
tune of cloth on a rider in the Bots a few
days ago. 1t was not simple in its deco
rations so far as the jacket was concerned.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-05-05

fnery of the year has been turned into
miniature vineyards, orchards and berry
patches. The head of the fashionable wo-
man man Is as heavily loaded with grapes as
that of a Greek Bacchanalian
Panne, which is still popular for full
dress toilets, Is. shown in printed patterns.
the most desirable of which are those en-
bossed with empire wreaths
PetticOat FriIIs.
The Frenchwoman is the most fastidious
woman in the world in regard to petti-
coats. Under a very simple gown one dis
covers petticoat of the most luxurious
sort as madame lifts her skirt to swish
across the street. Vertical tucks are used
on underskirts to give that slenderness to
the upper part of the figure which fashion
now demands, while the material fiaring
at the knee gives the desired modish full
ness to the skirt above. Hand-painted
skirts are the height of luxuriousness The
SKIRTS are of the most delicate shades of
SILK. intended, of course, for evening wear
and are trimmed with fiounces or plaitings
or chiffon or lace. One such skirt was of
pale blue, with festoons of blush roses
painted above the f1ounces White dane
ing petticoatS of French nainsook or Swiss
owe much of their comfort and elegance to
the skillful use Of the UP and down tucks
The lower part of the skirt is ALWAYS a
mass of flmy flounces and lace For wear
with tailor-made gowns the corset covers
and petticoatS in one piece are preferred
because the combination obviates the ne
cessity of the band at the waist which al
ways breaks the smoothness of the line of
the figure A further piece of comforting
news for those who are afflicted with over
stout figures is that long sash ends Will be
worn with most of the summer gowns
Jackets, even if short and of the zouaye
and bolero variety, will be given an effect
of extension by the use of tabs and sharp
pointed ends.
Fashions for DoSGie.
Just at present the. French poodle is the
favorite dog of society. The wardrobes of
these animals continue to increase in
weirdness. The clipped portion of the body
is covered by a small coat when the dog
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-05-05

Today bit of silvered tinsel quivering by
single tiny thread In the heart of a lace
rose answers every purpose and Is much
more delicate and dainty.
Costly thy habit as thy purse can buy,
But not expressed in fancy"
was old Polonius' counsel to Laertes The
old Danes advice has gathered no moss in
the rolling centuries
80 rich. not gaudy;
For the apparel oft proclaims the man
(and woman)-
Is no less true now than then. 1t is true
too, that the oddities and eccentricities of
modes were no more pronounced then than
now In Polonius' day the paVements were
nothing to brag of, and the street cleaning
forces were no more to be depended upon
than now; but the women who " ore trained
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-05-05

a wife, whom he made Empress of the
French Josephine Empress of France,
was an elegant dresser. She never wore
the same garment twice. Her stockings at
hours only. Her Jewels We're the wonder of
the world. the scandal of the empire. Her
gowns were magnificent. To this day they
wear her title-empire gowns.
Empire and Imperialism. From assocta-
tion of ideas, with stupendous dream of
empire. and natural tendency to healthy
expansion, there grows-what? An IDEAL
lzed set of empire fashions,
Fashion has issued Ter edict. and empire
gowns Will be the rage this coming season
Not gowns exactly such as Josephine wore
however; for only lunatic would ATTEMPT
that Lavish as Josephine was in expeDdi-
ture, costly as were the fabrics she adored
they were parsimoniouSly used for the
skirts of her gowns Were narrow and cling
ing and they outlined the form most scan
dalOusly, the petticoatS being of lace and
fine linen, one scant one being held suffi-
cient. One dear old lady many years ago
passed away at the age of ninety who told
the writer that her ''coming-Out'' dress was
of four widths of soft '.tabby'' silk trim
med with rare old lace laid on smoothly
and that under this clinging stuff she wore
a single Swiss muslin petticoat, with an
edge of narrow thread lace. all guiltless of
starch. This remarkable gown came to her
ankles. and the waist struck her just under
the arms, with scarcely enough above to
hold ii to her body.
Real Picture Dress.
Josephine. Empress of the French, whose
home was at the historic Tuilleries, once
wore coaching gown like the picture.
localized, the same gown is worn today,
and can be found in every shop on the
bargain counter. There will be the fasten-
Ing up the side of the front, the rows of
stitching in the back, the buttons, the
chnging sides. The young lady who dons
xyaiS -.
same kind OF a ribbon belt. which will
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-05-05

satin. and the yellow velvet jacket had
buttons of cluster diamonds. which was to
be held up when the empress walked
about" Presumably the holding up had
reference to the skirt and not the jacket
Some irreverent writers who have no re-
gard for the white light that beats upon
throne say that the time came when Jo-
sephine had to hold up the keeper OF the
imperial eXchequer every time she annexed
a new gown. 1t is scarcely right perhaps
to blame her for her extravaganza, for
Napoleon melted her to it. Madame la
Marechale," he said one day to a lady of
his court. ''your cloak is superb: l have
seen it a good many times and after that
Madame Ia Marechale had no alternative.
The remark meant new CLOAK" or leave
the court
Slippers and Gloves.
During the empire they Wore gloves that
came to the shoulder. For it doth happen
that some arms are more likely in appear
ance and roundness than Others says an
old writer, land many ladies are moved to
believe that the covered arm. although not
SO fair to the eye, is more suggestive, since
'concealment doth the more whet the i'm
agination.' They wore red slippers with
nc heels. and cloth shoes laced up in the
back. If a woman had beautiful feet and
well-turned ankles she was as likely to go
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-05-05

made with a double box plated skirt, the
plaits put on both back and front. Around
the skirt straps Of cloth were applied four
rows deep. The revers of the jacket were
handsomely painted, while the collar above
it was crossed with rows of silk stitching.
A tie of lace came around the high collar
and was tied in front in a loose knot.
New Hair Dressing.
There are some slight changes to be
noted in methods of dressing the hair. The
couture is softly waved and falls into a
slight part at one side. The hair is brought
low on the forehead, and there is quite a
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-05-05

The coat was made with stitched girdle
and with epaulets and fat collar of cloth
shade darker than the gown. The sleeves
were stitched at the shoulder and at the
wrist, the open revers having facing of
light cloth bordered by fanciful rows OF silk
stitching.
Notifications of the bolero jacket are still
seen on gowns sent out from fashionable
shops. One of those worn at the Auteuil
races by a modish dame had long tabs of
cloth in front, which were fastened to the
pointed girdle of stitched cloth by small
crystal buttons. The gown was of gray,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-05-05

gowns did not attempt to aid the municipal
authorities in sweeping the thoroughfareS.
They wandered but little abroad, and when
they did. the trains they Wore could be
gathered over the arm and no stain of
earth touched them, or. unlocked from the
shoulders, they We're laid aside till their
rightful habitat, the house, was again en-
tered.
Two Fateful Words.
Empire and Imperialism are words that
are often on the lips now, and with them
is coupled the name of Napoleon AssO-
citation Of IDEAS is an interesting study.
Some one thunders against "imperalism''
and NapoleOns that meet Waterloos My
lady la mode remembers that Napoleon had
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-05-05

suggestion of bang. 1t is customary to
train the hair to form few soft and cling
ing tendrils on the neck. For the ornamen-
taton of the hair are tortoise shell combs,
worn rather high; wings. leaves and clus-
ters of fruit similar to those seen upon the
spring millinery.
Verify this is a season of fruit The mil
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-05-05

fruit. The mil
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-05-05

artistically shorten the waist in the back
and lengthen 1t in front.
Elton jackets are the rage. Josephine
wore one a century ago. 1t had sleeves
that fell over the knuckles, and its fit was
something to give a dressmaker of today
mental strabismus, but 1t was worn by an
empress and became the rage in her day,
too. With 1t she wore a long-taned skirt
of "prune-colored velvet lined with yellow
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-05-05

A good polish for furniture is made with
half a pint each of vinegar, spirits Of wine.
linseed oil and turpentfne. Mix together
in a bottle and shake well. Apply il TO the
furniture with a piece of old flannel and
polish with a soft, dry duster
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-05-05


that was to displace her befeathered broad
A long dead poet once expressed his dis
gust at everchanging fashions as follows:
Now dressed in a cap, now naked i'm none:
NOW loose In mob now close in a JOAN
without handkerchief now, and now buried
NOW plain as Quaker now all of puff.
NOW a shape in neat stays, now slattern
Now high in French heels, now low in your
pumps;
Now monstrous in hoop. now trapish in
With your petticoats chung to your heels
like a maulkin
Like the cock on the tower, that shows you
| the weather,
You are hardly the same for two days to-
gether.'
After all, however, when one has reviewed
the styles that have interviewed since Jo-
sephines extravaganza and intrigues helped
10 toppie throne, it Is quite evident that
OF an ages this is the greatest of all the
world of fashion; never were the devotees
OF dress more becomingly gowned than
now. ISABEL WORRELL BALL.
He Gas the clock strikes 12)-"This is the
hour mat graveyards yawn."
onev.Wen, they have my Sympathy
New York World.
The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1900-02-01
SAG HARrnR y.

James A. Herne's two daughters are
TO appear with their distinguished
father in the forthcoming performance
of that great Herne play. Sag Har-
bor,' when IL shall anpear- here the
Providence Opera House next week
These two young women have been so
much talked about i'm New York and
in Boston during the extraordinarily
long run OF Sag Harbor" now con-
cluding at the Park Theatre that "A
brief word about each should be inter-
esting at this time.
Miss Julie Herne.the elder OF tha two
daughters, plays the leading emotional
role OF Martha Reese i'm "SagHarbor."
though now but nineteen years old She
is extremely beautiful. with a wealth
Of golden hair. and the bluest of blue
eyes Miss Herne has been compared
as an actress with her talented mother.
who. as Katharine Cochrane. was the
original Margaret Fleming" and not
so many years ago was considered one
OF the very best emotional actresses in
America. 4 distinguished Boston critic
has recently said that the art of Miss
Julie Hcrne. and the splendid sincerity
Of her work rendered her more nearly
comparable 90 the great Duse than any
other actress we have at the present
time i'm America. and all the critics
agree that her work In her fathers lat
est play is nothing short OF magnih-
cent.
Miss Chrystal Herne. the younger ~
The two daughters Will be seen i'm tho
light COMEDY role ~ Ianev Cauldwell
in "Sag Harb0r." Miss Chrystal.
though now hpt seventeen years old.
Is magnificent specimen % young
athletic American womanhod She Is
very tall and striking i'm appearance.
and much resembles her father. or az
least feminine edition of him in
manner voice and appearance. Fv-
erybody predicts a remarkable career
for her FOR SEEMINGLY the talents of
both her father and mother meet and
blend I'm her Shefis - fan as June
rose IN sag IIarborf AMI is sinply
delicious m her inanN pi1pant Seenes
Tho sale OF seats for Sag Harbor"
opens tomorrow morning.
The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1900-02-01

Rose Did YOU ever faint Isabel?
Isqbel-Onlv once: and bumped nv
head so hard nat never tried IL again.
Journal.
The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1900-02-01
UNION CONCERT AND BALL
IN COLUMBIA HALL LAST NIGHT.

Columbia hail was well filled with
the members and friends OF Persever-
ance and What Cheer companies Of the
Uniform Rank. X. of T.. last evening
IL being their first union Concert and
ball and the affair was very enjoy
able one. After the concert Major r
H. Nettleton and wife headed the long
line of dancers and ns many OF the
STAFF and field officers were present in
fun uniform. and the lay members In
large numbers. i'm uniform also. pre-
scented rather a pretty scene. and one
seldom seen outside of Infantry hall
The committees were made up as fol-
lows
Committee of arrangements PcrseV-
erance Co. Sergt. Geo ~. Hanny.
Sergt j. j. Weeks, III. Loyal r. H.
Holloway: What Cheer Go. lieut. - H.
Pinkham. Lieut.. W. T. Douglas. Lieut..
=. H. kcnaston. Reception commits
tee. Major Harry Blackington. capt
John ". Lowell. capt. John Williams.
capt. James Delaney; floor director
Major r. ~. NettIeton. aids. Lieut.
g. a., stevens. SerRt g. A. White: as
sisted by the ladies' auxiliary. Mrs
Mai r. VI. Nettleton. Mrs. Lieut. w
IT. Douglas, Mrs, Lieut.. G. n. Kcnas-
ton.
The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1900-02-01
ARRANG EMENT FOR CHECKING
BtGGiGE ON OAKLAND BEACH ROAD

Arrangements have been made for
the checking OF baggage t. points on
the Oakland Beach railroad from city
residences. The transfer company. up
ON being notified will call for the
trunk and leave q ticket FOR the same
at the house. and the baggage ~ taken
Ga the station and Put on the car for
Buttonwo0is and intermediate stations
The Hopkins Transfer company rep
resenas the suburban road at the new
passenger depot.