New-York tribune., 1900-09-23

show handsome woods in many other shades of
green. from the pale, faded shades TO a deep, rich
olive. In the hopsack woods the plain.
browns and the faded green's are particularly prom
inent.
TWEEDS AND WOOLs FOR WINTER.
Very smart IN a Highland tweed is a black and
white mixture. with red thread running through
II and making occasional irregular dots. For
pure black and white mixture a tweed with black
ground and white hairs and most indefinite pat
tern Of white diamonds running through the whole
IS to be recommended. On dull colored tweed with
ground Of indefinite brown, hecks of turquoise
blue, brown in q much lighter shade and touches
Of yellow. yet the tone of the whole is dark Two
shades OF green 'ook well in OF these coarse
rtuffs, and the plain, bright blues and browns are
equally handsome
Amethyst is the fashionable shade Of purple,
Snd this appears overcheC6 on the gray and
black stufs and as irregular checks in other dull
colors. Some mixtures Of this shade with green
are particularly happy.
Recent importations from London suggest that
paids are 10 be fashionable. Plaid trimmings
have been so fashionable in France during the
summer that It is quite possible their vogue
will be lessened during the winter. However pretty
examples of Scotch plaids come in these heavy
chevots and skirts trimmed with plain bands
and made UP with plain Jackets or basques they
should be most attractive
That the tailors should have such diverse Sc
lection OF goods illustrates once the wide posi-
hilitieS Of from SuCn sources N ltH clOtlla
were the only material that tailors considered the
choice was restricted largely 70 coIors; now, with
all these new weavings, an infinite variety of
effects may be obtained. Then, TOO, fancy woods
allow for a greater variety in trimming than do
N plain cloths.
one Of the gray tweed mixtures described is used
" by famous tailor the basis Of a smart walking
suit. The back and sides Of the skirt pleated
with strips Of black satin. covered with rows Of
white stitching between every two pleats. The
has ShO iach hef front al in
arated by the same strips. This is edged with
narrow cream guipure. and hangs over a soft front
Of bright green SILK There pleated belt (aImost
nothing in front but quite broad behind) of black
satin stitched with white
THE FASHIONABLE CHEvIOT
No handsomer choice for the autumn is possible
than one Of the rough black and white cheviots
with red rope running through il and making an
irregular series OF dots. The skirt is trimmed with
stitched bands Of red cloth each band narrow in
front and increasing in width toward the back
These bands are mounted on a circular ruffie. The
bodice is blouse with a set-in vest Of cloth fas-
tened 70 the blouse with ornaments and chains OF
A good many Of the new tailor made skirts have
some trimming on the sides, trimming arranged
~ point on eacl side or yoke that only
the top Of the side breadths. A hopsack cloth in
cloth. embroidered with black the cloth on the
skirt taking the form Of points on the sides,
make the back fulness On the bodice are three
gest boro de gaiics 6 SkIng points that sug-
the waist TO form the fashiona Bile long line This
blouse s naturally open and shows line Of under
vest made Of turquoise blue panne and -chenisette
81 white satin. The Sleeves bell to considerable
band Of the embroidered green cloth There are
tiny undersleevcs Of white satin gathered into a
embroidered cloth. - ~
Even the tailors are making elaborate sleeves
ana when one gets away from strictly tailor made
costumes the sleeves important items
differ to exactly The manner and piace of tb
or some effect on The bodice We on oter OF 61 y91e
the important part Of the sleeve is toward the
wrist Ihe usual pattern for this second style of
underseeve is short ana inconspicuous the inteI ne
est lying in the sleeve itself
UNDERsLEEVEs on COATS.
This sleeve is also used on many Of the driving
and walking coaks. The loose box coat is still in
excellent style. providing It has the necessary
changes. The fulness, while shaped not pleated IS
hung from q yoke, lot Of stitching in the way
9I points and bands being used in this arrange
snal button 70 the throat with high close collar
LI,e pen sleege JUST described IS smart adjunct
imagine a coat OF three-quarters length made in
this way. the material of pale gray cloth win
embroidered with gold Three large silver ro bf6et
oi most unique style close the yoke and below
hn4a- buttons 10 match used in clusters 10
ornament the garment. There is "A slight tracerv
Of gold these buttons that carries OUT The
scheme OF gold embroidery on the velvet 3' 'ie
The tailors call attention 10 the beauty of The
Some Of these are dull QUITE the 5bSds arc erd using
pearance Of pewter, and have imbedded IN them
some odd stone They expensive and have not
been initiated IN cheap materials as is Of course
sBe 81 case with the gold buttons that are 50 fashion
The combination OF gold and silver in the trim
ghe uncommon accepted By various contgriSrelss' ls'
sS On costume OF fine gray cloth the same idea
ssTTanged as triple tunic slashed in circular in
oentatons These are, OF course, stitched and they
are held by hand Of black velvet passed through
a goio buckle. Above trimming on the skirt
SNAPPED ike Shells and holding each a dull blue