New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1900-01-21
PARTISAN DINNER GOWNS.
THE EMPIRE EFFECT Is THE PREVAIL
ING NOTE IN THEM.
ALL. COSTUMES GROWING SIMPLER IN DESIGN
THE DIREcToIRE = BELT AND THE
BoLERo STILL FAvoRITEs.
Paris 1an1lar-

Paris, January T. 1900.
Costumes for the New Year show that the EN-
Eire effects promise TO be most popular not only
for negligees. but for evening costumes and cloth
gowns for the afternoon Last year for formal
evening affairs. dinners and receptions the prin-
gown favorite model this year the
favorfte gown would seem be affair in
piece. with either high wasted effect loose
front. Such a cut permits of good deal of vari-
ETY. in the way OF trimming, and this is what is
demanded in costumes for the evening Here are
some pretty gowns in which may trace the
Empire influence:
Deep cream Liberty satin makes dinner gown
that is laid in wide pleats from the deeoHetage to
below the hips The front pleats allowed to fall
straight, but the others define the waist line
About the bust is a scarf of pale yellow velvet:
with gold buckle. and ends side The
oecoletage is finished with small rever collar of
white lace. embroidered with yellow chenille in a
rich, beautiful way. The lower part of the skirt
has border of pleats running about the figure
and over this points made of lace entredeux
embroidered in the way the lace the
bust The elbow sleeves of the embroidered
lace unlned. and slightly draped the outside of
the arm with yellow velvet twist a small gold
buckle It is well to remember this embroidered
lace. The work is done in chenille, and the pattern
is quite Independent of the lace design. The work
is in heavy. effective stitches and is neither diff
cult nor laborious. fairly cheap lace could be
used for this work. and a clever needlewoman
could provide herself with the trimming for
gown Of this style. which, by the way, is marked
at $50 by the dressmaker responsible for it
The next gown is most delightfully."- airy in effect
The material is white Luxeuil lace over a foun-
oation Of blue mousseline de sole. The unde--yovn
shows in the form of a front finely shirred with
point of lace at the decolletage and the bottom
two hounces Of the mousseline de sole edged with
lace Over this is the lace tunic made with a
flowing back and high wasted effect drawn to the
sides with a scarf Of blue velvet. The tunic has
lace collar about the shoulders. but sleeves It
is caught the left side of the skirt with two
white doves. and two more perched the left
birds and feathers as garntures for evening dress
Small birds in the hair. in place Of
the usual couture.
The Directoire negligee is, of course by no means
novel, but here is a pretty example of that Is
being in play at the Theatre Francais. The
material is white crepe, finely pleated, and hung
from q circular yoke The yoke itself is OF Irish
lace. finished by line of sable and bertha rufle
Of the crepe The Directoire sash is of white silk
fastened with two loops behind. The bottom Of
the skirt is trimmed by elaborate pattern worked
in narrow white ribbon. The sleeves pleated
and full. with deep lace cuffs. A Drectoire house
gown for a young girl is of ola rose panne with a
tiny yoke Of deerskn, which lace figures are
sppliqued. About the bust is a sash of silk,
with long ends behind and the falls in pleats
from under this. The sleeves of lace unlined,
and Of figures cut out of the soft fur.
Those who like the bizarre may be interested in
the following black gown for the evening: The
material is black tulle, embroidered with jets in
pattern Of serpents with green paillettes their
heads and backs. The sleeves are of black tulle,
unlined. and the right arm is ornamented by one
of these cooled serpents This gown is in the
princess form. but the material is softly draped
about the bust and is fastened in big bow and
green buckle the left side. Of humming
birds is shown a gown of pslest blue satin The
material is draped across the bust and is held
with a trimming of four or five birds on one side
Of the corsage- There are shoulder straps of green
velvet. from which fall mitt sleeves of white lace
The skirt is trimmed by a deep hounce of lace
caught up side by another cluster Of birds
This wholesale Of birds garnitures for
ing gowns Will undoubtedly offend good many
people but II is recorded the last caprice of
fashion.
A smart dinner gown is of black Chantilly with
incrustatons Of white guipure making a front
panel and deep founce about the skirt and bolero
Jacket. The Jacket extends about the shoulders
posed below the collar. The black lace sleeves are
attached to the shoulders the bolero by strings
OF jet, leaving the top Of the arms bare The soft
vest between the sides Of the boero Is of jetted
tulle over blue satin. On side Of the bust is
large chou of blue velvet.
THE DIRECTOIRE BELT A FEATURE
For those who do not care for the extreme EN-
pre effects the high Drectoire belts present an at
tractive substitute. Mile. Wanda de Bancza wears
among other lovely costumes in the new play at
the Iheatre Francais a gown in which the high
Directoire belt is a conspicuous feature The ma
terial is cloth in the palest gray with skirt and
blouse laid in stitched pleats. lace embroidered
In blue chenille makes band around the skirt and
up each SIDE OF the apron to the waist On the bod