Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-01-15
WHERE EVERY PROSPECT PHASES
No More Delightful People Can Be
Found Anywhere.
Fl o MOL LUIS BEA UTIES

tourist travel in our direction. 1t is COM
posed chiefly of wealthy Americans, many
with an eye to investments, others simply
bent on pleasure. All of these tourists are
! charmed and fascinated by the islands
Most of them remain much longer than
they had intended in setting out for the
| group. This is not surprising. l landed
in Honolulu nearly thirty years ago. with
| the idea of remaining there until the next
| ship returned to San Francisco. I've made
| my home in Honolulu ever since.
| Honolulu is about as pleasant a city in
| which to spend from two weeks to fifty
| years as may be found upon the map of
| the world 1 think so, at least and have
| seen all the great cities. Honolulu is cos
| mopolis and a country village in The
| grandeur of its natural setting is not easy
| to describe. There are many spots upon
| the earth where the triumph of nature
over mans works is signal and overwhelm-
| ing-none where the victory of nature is so
| complete upon the Island of Oahu,
| ringed by sapphire seas-the island upon
which Honolulu is situate The splendor
| of the major cities of the world pales their
| environs to meanness and squalor by COM
| parison, but the beauty of the environs of
Honolulu dims the beauty of the city itself ,,
| Nuuanu street in Honolulu is pretty and
| interesting, but the wild Nuuanu valley, at
| the foot of which Honolulu struggles, is
ma gnificent.
Hawaiian Scenery.
Oahu is only one of the islands, and
Nuuanu only one of the valleys. Neither
| is paramount in the group in point of
| beauty. But Oahu, because 1T is the island |
| setting of Honolulu, and Nuuanu valley,
because its gorges are the prolongations of
Honolulu's streets, are especially well |
known to the wanderers who have dreamed
away a few days in Honolulu between |
steamers. Scenically, all of the islands are
superb beyond the range of Historically de- |
| largest island Of the group, dwarfs the |
lot of them in its scenic splendor. Crowned |
by Mauna-Loa, the most tremendous of the |
worlds volcanoes and pitted by kilauea,
| the fame-belching lake that would have |
made Dore gasp with amaZement with in |
Vulnerable beautiful, level plateaus, COW
cred with sugar cane, Hawaii, l think, is
the loveliest of the worlds islands. In
truth, every feature of Hawaiian scenery |
is so essentially perfect in itself that the |
difficulty of description lies in the attempt |
to single out characteristic aspects.
aside from the volcanoes, active and eX- |
tnct, perhaps the cascades that gush from |
| the lava palisades of the Island of Hawaii |
most commonly impress the voyager.
Steamny from Honolulu to Hilo-the chief |
city on the Island of Hawaii-and skirting |
the coast Of the island at an average dis
lance of not much more than couple of |
hundred yards, for scores of miles the voy- !
ayers eyes fascinated by the leaping, |
shimmering play of these emerald cas-
cades which at about the intervals of city |
blocks jet from the heights of the palisades |
in tempestuous streams to the indigo waters |
of the sea
Life In Honolulu.
| The average globe-trotter misses all of |
| this Entranced from the moment his eye !
first catches sight of the purple hills and |
the white towering mountains of Hawaii, !
he is landed at Honolulu. where, fascinated |
by the Joy of living in a city that has a |
tropical aspect without possessing a trop- |
| ical climate, he fingers, satisfied that in |
seeing Honolulu he has seen the Hawaiian |
Islands Although he hasn't he is not |
! greatly to be blamed for yielding to the |
peasurabe joys of existence in Honolulu |
me saying the some. howsomever, as |
| maybe shouldn't. Life in Honolulu is fas- |
| fascinatingly languorous-not the languor Of
| climatic enervation. which is unknown in |
| cur temperate, brecZe-swcpt islands. but |
| the mental and physical rcpose which IS |
| superinduced by perfect surroundings. No |
| body overworks himself down our way. The |
| Americans and Ensishmcn and Germans
| engaged in business, foreign or domestic
| shipping or local. contrive to get through !
| tEeir business duties of the day without at |
| lacking them with cyclonic fury, and they |
| make their hours of labor short. The siesta |
| of high nooI-someWhat abbreviated, how
| ever-is much a daily feature in Homo |
| lulu as it is in the really sizzling tropical
| countries where the necessity for it ac-
| tualIy exists.
| Only a matter of %. degrees or so above
| the eouator-a latitude that parcheS and
| withers continental lands situate within it
|
| of the tropics in the Hawaiian Islands con-
| sists in the verdure, which is gorgeousy |
| tropical But this tropic verdure is not the |
| result of extreme heat as it is in Mexico |
| Central and South America, and other |
| countries in the low ATTITUDES. 1t is the re-
suit Of an even temperature the year
| around One must spend few years in ,
| climate of the Hawaiian sort to gain full
| appreciation Of the beneficence of it. The |
| JOY Of wearing a white linen suit and a
| pith hat in December well as in July is
/ thing alternately nd
melted inhabitants of temperate zones to
| revel in.
AminbIe Nanakns.
| "The ease and complaisancy with which
| the white population of Hawaii accept life
| and all of its situations storm and calm,
may be largely ascribed to the example of
| the kanakas-the most lovable, poetic peo-
| pie of an i,Iferftor and decadent race in the
| world The seizure of the islands Of Ha-
| wall by the whites burdened the back of
| the kanaka with the yoke of labor. He
| accepted it with the equanimity and good
| nature with which he accepts every shuttle
| of the cards of fate Bending his back in
| sugar fields shOvelng coal into drays, sav-
| ing in the holds of steamships, the gentle
| philosophy of his disposition never deserts
| him The average kanaka OF Hawaii is an
| artist in dungarees. The advent of an arti-
flcial civilization has never made the Kama
ka an artificial man. His instincts all tend
| to the troddins of the paths Of peace. The
| Kanaka IS an inspired musician, in that
music is the handspring of his being A
dscord tears him to his life's center a
! harmony translates him to the stars He
| sings always-at work or at play, in
| misery or happiness-and his wife, his
| sweetheart, all of his people sing in unison
| with him. Wagner, who spent his life in
| twining wreaths to adorn the shrine of
| nature, might have garnered from the har-
| monies of kanaka voices themes even more
| beautiful and more in touch with the soil
| than those which he was only able to
| grasp by the projection of his musical spirit
| back to the Teutonic middle ages. Some
| great composer of the future will render
| into music the martial chants of triumph
| the plaintve minor walls of suffering the
| lute-lke trlls of happiness, which flow
| with the f1uency of rills from the inspired
| hearts of those natural Kanaka improvisa-
torres. One whose path Is crossed in the
| moonlit waters of Honolulu harbor by a
| boatload of kanaka men and girls. the
voices of all of them elevated in reveren-
tial salute to the southern stars will carry
with him through life the memory of a
| beautiful musical experience.