The evening times., 1900-01-09
Wine MAKING In FRANCE
An Interesting Report From United
States Consul Van Buren,.
Methods of Fermentation Described.
rhe Watts and other ParaphernnIia.
The Question of Bottling-The Use
of Piquette i'm the Blending of Bey-
erascs for the TabIe-Somc Details.

| France is the subject of long and inter-
esting report that has been sent to the
State Department by UniteI States Consul
Harold S. Van Buren. Mr.. Van Buren
SAYS:
The frequent enquiries from the United
States touching the manufacture of wine
and piquette, prompted 10 doubt by de-
sire to utilize the methods adopted in OLD
wine producing countries, in districts OF
our own where grapes are lagely pro-
duced. have induced me during the harvest
Of this year 20 examine the systems used
for producing wholesome and, technically
speaking, pure wine.
MY intention at first was to confine this
report TO the item of 'piquette' ia prod
uct comparatively unknown in the United
States, but which is attracting much atten-
tion here), because the residue of grapes
is utilized here TO an extent undreamed OF
in our country; but l believe it would be
of interest to explain the primitive, but at
the same time thorough and remunerative.
method by which the wine itself is made.
From Investigations during the late
harvest, / am led to conclude that the sys-
TEN OF wine-msking common in Piedmont
is superior to that generally employed here.
! shall therefore restrict my description
to this method. indicating later the rea-
sons for it's superiority.
The grapes are placed in large watts and
thoroughly bruised until the resulting
liquid covers the mass. The object is TO
produce an elementary fermentation. which
materially Increases the production or
Juice The vat has discharge a few inches
from the bottom. and at a height OF from
six 10 eight inches above is a small ori1ce
with a wooden plug. The grapes are
squeezed by pounding with fiat iron or
stone weights, attached to convenient han
dies, and ali the Juice is drawn off from
the lower discharge and placed temporarily
in casks. When the mass is well pressed
by this method, all the juice is poured back
into the vat upon the residue, the mixture
is stirred to render it of equal consistency,
the cover of the vat is put on. woolen or
other warm covering is spread above it,
and it is left to ferment.
The time OF fermentation varies from
year 10 year, and depends upon the degree
Of maturity of the grapes, the weather dur
ing which they have been harvested wet
or dry), and. OF course. the quality OF the
grapes.
After the fifth or sixth day Of fermenta
ton, the plug above mentioned is drawn
out and glass filed with the liquid IL 1t
shows a degree of muddiness or contains
particles of residue. the wine is not drawn.
When the liquid is fairly clear. the wine
may be considered sufficiently made to
be Grawn into casks. These are placed in
the cellar filled to the bung. but with the
bung left open. The second fermentation
usually lasts a month or more.
During the first fermentation, the mix
ture in the vat should rot be disturbed at
all and here / an compelled to speak of
the difference in the two systems above
mentioned and in their results. The local
(Nice) custom has been to place sliding
cover in the vat. braced against the ceiling,
with the object of keeping the residue con-
tinually under water as it were. and
each day to stir up the entire mass. have
been enabled TO verify that by this method
the wine does not show when fermentation
is complete; hence. the results are uneven
and often disastrous
Again. the fact of the bubbing liquid
being exposed TO the air In the top OF tie
vat causes a certain acidity and less Of al
cohol strength By the PiedmoDtese meth
cd, the fermentation pushes the residue
upward until By degrees every particle of
solid substance comes to the top. leaving
the clear wine below. prepared to show
when the degree OF fermentation is such
that any delay in drawing will result in
the wine becoming acid. and losing the
mellOVress which the grapes should nat
urally impart 10 it.
Il visited a district near Nice where
very bad harvest had been gathered, and
ali the proprietors, save one, had made
their wine by the usual local method. This
one had adopted the Piedmontese method,
and his wine alone failed 10 turn to vine
gar. In explanation Of their manner Of
proceeding, | was told that If We allow
~, 10 TIn Tor
acid and We lose it The residue is passed
through a press, and the juice procured is
either thrown with the first wine or else
used as second wine In the former
case. ii certainly greatly deteriorates the
product. and in the second instance 1t is
a most unpalatabie drink. This brings me
to the utilization of the residue for the
manufacture Of 'piquette.'
Before drawing the wine. and upon re-
moving the covering of the vat, IL will be
observed that the entire residue has risen
to the surface and that the upper portion
thereof, quite dry. has formed crust. This
is carefully removed to the depth of two or
three inches all round for the reason that. |
having been in contact with the air, ii has |
become acid. and it would communicate this |
acidity to the piquette about to be made. |
This done, and the wine drawn as explained |
above a quantity of water equal TO the /
wine is poured upon the residue.
Were no further ingredient added there |
would be a repetition, in a degree of the |
first fermentation, with product having /
about degrees alcoholic strength. But |
The object being to extract everything pos
sible from the residue by means of a /
heightened fermentation, and to attain an |
alcoholic strength sufficient for the preser- |
vation of the new product, cane sugar in /
crystals is used to the extent of 4.i092 /
pounds of sugar to each 26417 gallons of |
the water that has been used.
Each addition in this proportion viii |
cause the alcoholic strength of the pi-
quette to rise .degree-that is to say. tax
ing degrees as the normal strength, to
obtain an alcoholic strength of degrees.
1ne would add 1866 pounds of the sugar
70 each 26.4f7 gallons of water. The sugar
Is dissolved in additional water upon a
brisk fire, and poured, when boiling, into
he vat. This is then covered as before.
md the fermentation is allowed to proceed
until. as in the case of the wine making. |
he liquid issues from the plug hole en-
-irely clear. The, piquette is then treated
ls was the wine
Il had occasion to investigate a case in
which the piquette had not been used i'm
nediately after making, but had been en-
1loyed in the manufacture of wine for
sOttililS- II hdS pIaCeu III CASKS ana al |
owed to finish its second and rather fee
Die fermentation. 1t then had a pale rose
int and was, to a slight degree sparkling
Il gave degrees of alcoholic strength.
TO each 1885 quarts, 1.0567 quarts of !
heavy. black Spanish wine, costing here
lbout ii cents per liter, was added, and
he whole was left in casks from October
lntil the following March, as in the case
'f the wine ITSELF
eff u-ac tbo,, oloo-.1 4