The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-06-10
TOWNS OF PORTO RICO
Rich in History If Not Well Blessed
in Things Material.
The Advantages of SAN Juan-Ail the
Available Space in the City Taken
lip by Buildings-The Steamship
Lines to Ports Along the Const-
The Beautiful Gardens of Ponce.

SAN JUAN, June $50 limited in area
Is the country which is tributary 70 each
business centre of Porto Rico that no one
Of the towns has attained great CONNER
cial Importance; but from the tourist S
point of view. all are alike interesting.
Some excite wonder that anything so
quaint, so essentially foreign, had SO long
lain. Amos: at our doors, undiscovered
save by very few adventurous travellers;
some are rich in historic memories, others
TEEN with materials for the writer of re-
nance models for painter, or scenes that
would delight any lover of the beautiful
and picturesque.
Although, according to the census Of
1899 the population of San Juan is eN-
ceeded by that of both Ponce and Maya
guez, as the capital and the port Of call for
several lines of foreign steamers, it still
claims first place.
Rarely does one look Ipon a more at
tractive picture than is presented TO the
visitor who enters its land-locked harbor
on bright, sunny morning. Over the OBJ
structing reef at the right dash great
snow-crowned ocean rollers, while the
shadows beyond show the rainbow-tinted
waters which one only sees above reef
environed tropic islands. On the left rises
time-worn FL MORO. against whose waiis
old oceans maddest pillows have Faihis
thundered for ages. Close TO the narrow
harbor entrance are still plainly TO De seen
some Of the wrecks which, in 1898. were
sunk to bar the channel to invading fleets.
In the Hnrbor.
Within the harbor, one sees about HIN;
steamers flying the colors of several Eu-
ropean nations, white-winged barkentines.
quaint island fishing boats and handsome
yachts. Above the two fortresses-grirn
Ell MORO and sunlit San Cristobal-foat
the Stars and Stripes. The CLEAN Of
bayonet calls attention to slow-pacing
sentinel upon the outer ramparts OF MORO
Tossing cocoa palms are silhouetted
against the sky as they are stirred by the
wind: serrated hills rise. rank behind rank
on the other side of the harbor, and on the
other the square, low, many hued houses
of San Juan climb the slope.
The city, built upon tiny island, is en-
firely surrounded by a massive wall
Although II boasts the most pretentious
educational Institutions and claims to have
and, its narrow streets, overhanging bal
comics, moss-grown castles, and decaying
architecture carry the visitor backward
more than three centuries to its founding
by the yenturous Ponce de Leon, and, as
one tourist expressed it: The city seems
to have been stolen in toto from some OLE
history" De Icons palace, Casa Bian-
ca"-dating back to 1525-divides horrors
with the present palace" as the resi-
dence Of the Governor General is always
termed. Both these residences have fine
gardens, affording almost the only glimpse
of vegetation to be seen within the city
walls, II We except the inner courts Of
some of the most prosperous merchants.
As an offset for the advantage San Juar
has in possessing the finest harbor In
Porto Rico, must be placed the fact tina.
about the only way to furnish accommoda-
lions for any great increase of population
in the city itself is to raise the houses a
few stories. for tie city of today covers
thickly about all available space upon the
tiny island. This fact is always empha-
sized by the citizens OF Ponce, as they boast
Of their wider area.
Excursions From San Juan.
There are plenty Of pleasant excursions
to be taken from San Juan, not the leas'
fortresses. If one includes drive to Sar
Guonimo, his surprise will be excited bI
the modern annexes to this tiny fortress
CO the mainland side. The dates 1897 ana
1883, cut in the fYesh-looking stone work
tell their own steEy Of preparations mad,
the years of the WAT scare. Major Day, the
officer in charge, had the honor of raising
in Ponce the firx American flag ofiiciall,
raised in Porto Rico. To him also wa:
given the privilege, on the eyentful Octo.
Der IS, of raising the same flag over E.
MORO. Although it is worn and defaced
this historic bit OF bunting has the place
Of honor in the quarters of its proud owner
who turns-as be eught-a deaf ear to all
entreaties from curio hunters for lust &
little Gee"
visitor to see tbs coast towns is to take
passage on either the steamer Ponce Oh
San Juan. when they leave the capital for
q coasting trip about the island.
AS hotels an the island have not yet
reached the Standard demanded by Amer
leans, il is safe to conclude that the good
meals and comfortable quarters to be
found on ship will be found more salts
factory than any accommodations procur-
able on shore.
Should the course be westward, the first
port to be made is Arecibo. the natural
outlet for the northwest part of the island.
This is place where the steamship must
lie well out, with steam up, for the So
called harbor is only an open roadstead,
and il is frequently extremely difficult to
effect landing. The town. upon table,
land, from which q beautiful view can be
had, is built On the usual Spanish system
Of central plaza. upon which face the
church and the city hall.
fountain and growing plants lend at
Effectiveness TO the plaza. Most of the
streets are macadamized. sidewalks very
marrow and of cement conglomerate. The
buildings facing on the plaza are mostly
adobe covered with cement or gravel con-
glomerate. In continuing to circle the
island. Aguadilla Is next reached. This
port is alike celebrated for its magnificent
bay. and the tradition that along the
shores OF this bay Columbus landed for
water in 1888, being SO much impressed
with its beauty that he called 1T Rich
Port" Quaint and picturesque" is the
verdict of each visitor
Connected by rail with Aguadilla is Ma
yaguez. This claims to be the cleanest city
on the island. possesses the only street car
service, disputes with San Juan and Aqua
dilla the honor of affording the first resting
place for the adventurous foot OF America s
eiscoverer, and, like the two cities named,
sdorns its central plaza with fine bronze
statue Of Columbus. The style of the resi-
dences is good, the sanitary conditions far
better than in other Porto Rican towns.
the drives about the town lead one into q
most picturesque country. and, altogether,
there seems good foundation for the pre-
diction that. in this tropic elysium. will
soon be found winter mecca for Ameri-
cans. Many objects OF interest reward q
>A46fHe>a Food will lay