Mexico Missouri message., 1900-05-10
BOKHARA.
Description of Moslem Town In Cen.
trail Asia.

tressed ana crenellated walls. lnese
walls, built Of brick and plastered
with mud, are something more than
eight miles in circumference, ten feet
thick at the base and about 80 feet
in height. 1t is said that the first
wall was built more than 1000 years
ago, in the year $50, but the present
wall dates only from the rcconstruc-
ton Of the city after it was RACED by
Chinghiz Khan in the early part OF
the thirteenth century. These gates
are closed after the evening prayers
by the wntchmen of the gates, who
live in holes in the walls, and after
that hour no one is permitted to enter
or leave the city. In fact, from that
time no one is permitted to move
about within the city, watchmen pa
trolling all night with gathering rat
ties to enforce the law. When morn
ing prayers are said at sunrise the
gates are opened again and the busy
traffic Of the city is resumed.
Wepassed into the city through one
OF these gates, to find that our prog
ress was no longer at the will of our
driver. The narrow streets stand as
they have stood for many centuries
crooked, confined, rough. The Tar
tar driver shouted continually to clear
the way ahead. while Abdul leaned
back in the cushions, looking bored,
and | leaned forward, glad that more
speed was difficult. Usually it is i'm
possible to require the drivers to 60
slowly through the most interesting
sights. Much to my surprise, ] saw
no sign of resentment at the incnn-
vonicnce we caused. Other travellers
have written of the sour looks and the
surlv remarks offered them in
Bokhara by the fanatical Moslem poo-
pie of the city, but nothing of the sort
came under my notice. 1t may be
that Adults position as dragoman Of
the Russian embassy had something
to do with the exemption, but do not
think so. 1t seemed rather as if the
Bokhariots have found that the few
foreigners who come do them no
harm and have no designs on them or
their religion, so the labor of being
rcScntful is so much wasted effort. BE
that as it may, camels, donkcys and
men in throngs were elbowed to one
side, pushed into courtyards and by
ways and interrupted in their own af-
fairs to let us pass. Some were frank
" curious and Others were dignified-
ly Indifferent, but no one was annoy
ing. The chief evidence of the strict
observance Of Moslem rule was in the
concealment Of the women. Even
Andijan was outdone. The women
we met were not only heavily yelled
with the peculiar fabric of horschair
used for the purpose, but they turned
their faces away when We met square
| ly, or whenever it was possible with
drew into doorways and faced the wall
till We had passed.
The historical remains and ruins of
Bokhara do not begin to compare
with those Of Samarkand as a whole,
though there are some notable ones
that are worthy Of the highest admira-
ton. The oldest of these is the palace
of the khan. which is said to have been
built by the Persian king Alp-Arslan
more than 900 years ago, or at tho
time Of the construction of the first
walls Of the city. 1t is situated in
the ark or citadel, standing on a con,
ical cmincucc in the center Of the
city. but strangers are not permit
ted access to it. The great entrance
to the citadel and palace is flanked on
either side by round towers. Over tho
arch is the dial Of the town clock Of
Rokhara. which was made by Giov0n,
nj Orlando. an Italian slave. who wa
put to death by the late cmir in 1851
Lccausc he would not change his re-
Iigion
The rcghistan, or great square o'
; Bokhara. i, the center of interest anC
activity, according to the custom il
the other cities of central Asia. UnC
the entrance to the palace and citade
is here. The most noticeable cdilic'
facing the square, however. and thu
most famous, is the minarct of Ia
Liam. This is the chief feature Of tn
principal mosque of Bokhara, tn
| Mcsiid-i-Kalian, which was built b.
, Tamcrlane. This mosque, with ii
, dome about 100 feet in height, i no
, rs large as some Of the ruined one
in Samarkand, but the miuarei is b.
all means the most splendid in cen
trail Asia. 1t is taller, larger an,
more elaborate in its architoctur
than any Of the many in Samarkand
, and for some reason remains in almoS
,,orFr,t o,rI;t;op u-biln all tln work