The Republican. [volume] (Oakland, Md.) 1877-current, 1900-05-10
In AND ABOUT CORD0VA
Rambling Through the Forgotten
Capital of the CaIiphs,
A STRANGE MINGLING OF TYPES
Odd tumble of Roman and Arabian,
Gothic and Spanish-A Quaint Old
Bridge Across the GuadaIquivir.

Guidebook tourists seldom devote
more than one day to this forgotten
capital of the Caliphs, and many even
take it i'm between trains, getting
only hurried glimpses of its crooked
streets and splendid Mosque. They
make a grave mistake, for there is no
city in the world to compare with
Cordova in romantic and historic in
terest. One loses the best of a Span
ish tour by following too clesely in
beaten paths; he may get his fill of
prominent features, but misses al
together the true spirit of the coun-
try-the mingled SAVIOR of romance
and antiquity, charming sloth and
poetic rascality which distinguishes
Spain above any other portion of
Europe. Cordova's manifold charms
of mellowness and tranquility grow
upon the world-wearied traveller un-
til he finds it difficult to tear himself
away. For the worn-out nerves and
tired brains of those who have been
living the high-pressure life of Ameri-
can cities, it's stiffness and solemnity
act like a cooling poultice on an in
fialnmation; while the semi-invalid
finds more benefit in the simple food
and soft Andalusian air than in all
the nostrums of the medicos.
To be sure, there is a good deal to
annoy one here, in the slowness with
which the smallest affairs of every
day are conducted-the universal
maxim being never do to-day any
thing that can possibly be deferred
till to-morrow-the ''manana" that
never comes. Nothing seems to sur
prise and disgust these good Cordo-
vans so much as the vulgar prompti-
tude and everlasting hurry of the
average Anglo Saxon. One soon
learns that it is no use trying to
change the customs of a thousand
years to fit those of New York or
Chicago, and that to kick against the
pricks of environment only increases
the delay. By far the better way is
to possess ones soul in patience, re-
membering that railway trains, dill
gencias and muleteers expect to wait
indefinitely, and that to keep bust
ness engagement anywhere near the
hour named is to make the inevitable
waiting longer at the other end of
the line.
In ones rambles around Cordova
he is continually coming upon
new-old objects of interest, many of
which are not mentioned in a,.y
guide book. To get the greatest en-
tertainment out of the day, one
should cross the Guadalquivir early
in the morning, on the picturesque
bridge that Octavius Caesar has the
credit of building, but which is really
the work of the Caliphs of Cordova;
spend the hot midday hours in the
marble forest' of the great Mosque,
or the cool and ordorous Court of
Oranges, and enjoy an evening drive
or promenade in one of the plazas.
The Cordovese are extremely proud
of their quaint old bridge-and with
abundant reason, for there is not
another like it on the face of the
earth. The arms of the city, "a
bridge placed on water" refers to it.
Never was queerer blending of
Roman and Arabian styles than its
sixteen irregular buttressed arches,
and huge Moorish gateway leading
through a tower WHICH was once part
of the city walls-thesruins of Octa-
vius Caesars bridge serving foun-
dation for the superstructure of the
Caliphs, erected A. d. 719. At one
end of it is the gypsy qualter, the
haunt of robbers, brigands and ras-
Gals of every grade; at the other, the
historic castle of Calohorca, memora-
BILE for its important part in the siege
of Cordova by Pedro of Castillo
Close by, standing out conspicuous.
ly in the now shallow river are the
ruins of some Moorish mills, with
open horseshoe arches and time.
softened azuelos. Just beyond rises q
colossal statue of st. Raphael, the
archangel, who is believed to be the
= especial protector OF Cordova.
Nothing can be more entertaining
{ than the early morning scenes upon
N ~Cordova's ancient bridge-the huge
brown gateway of the Arabs as an
artistic background for the groups oi
gaudily-dressed peasants who have
to wait with their mules while theil
burdens are being closely examined
by tax collectors at the city barrier
An equal stream of mules and drivers
flowing countryward, becomes con
gested at the gate-beasts kicking
struggling and braying; men, womer
and children shouting, gesticulating