The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-11-11
Observation-Disclosures
An Afternoon Stroll in Its In
perial Parks.
Many "Reminiscences of Car Peter the
Great-pisplay of His Wearing Ap-
parel Displayed at Marty aud
Observation-Disclosures Plntters and
the Empress Elizabeth.

The engine whistle shrieked; not one
clear note, but combination of raucous
discords, and we steamed away into the
placid fiat country outside Petersburg.
j did not know how far Peterhof was
from the city, and the names Of the s:a-
tions at which we stopped were of no
service to one whose knowledge Of Rus
sian did not even extend SO far as its
alphabet: therefore, as place after place
was passed, should have felt uneasy had
not a young officer, with the charming
manners of the educated Russian, asked
me for a "crayon," and, after having
looked ut the ticket held, on slip OF
paper torn from his very elegant ciga-
rette pocketbook, written down for me
some valuable Information.
He would not speak French; he would
only write 1t, and even his lettering was
not sure. for he spelled Peterhof Peter
gof: but he gave me to understand. that
the good hotel in the place was the Sam
son, and that music in the Imperial Park
would be audible between 3 and o'clock.
He was still further kind when We reach
ed our destination. for he faced the
shouting drosky drivers outside the sta
fion. bargained with three CT four, PICK
ed out of the handful of money l help
iessly extended the fare he had settled
1 should pay d man for the whole after
noon showed me on my watch face the
time of a convenient train back to Ie-
tersburg, and, saluting with great en-
pressment, drove { II in front OF my dros-
Ky on the way to the palace.
The drosky driver evidently had stereo-
typed plan In his head. He trundled along
the dusty road bordered by suburban resi-
dencee. and then turned into an English
looking park, only the trees were not 60
tall or fine as English ones. There were
LAKES for US to skirt, made classical OF as
pect by mean. Of ruined marble pillars
and grottoes and in one / saw right out
in the middle OF the water chilly looking
marble nymph, as If in the act OF bathing,
who gave me rather shock.
Presently We trotted up to long.
rather low set Of palaces on terrace. The
driver pulled up at gate by the side OF
one OF them. and, hearing the strains Of
music inside a railed-in plesaunce, 1
rightly concluded that this was the Inn
perial Park, and that l was supposed to
get out and enjoy myself l now found
myself in the midst Of happy congrega-
ton Of well-dressed people evidently out.
like myself, for Sunday afternoons
1aunt. and with them enjoyed the grassy
Rlades, the shady trees, the purling foun-
3ains. and the music. There were two
military bands which stood beneath the
windows OF the palace. They played alter
pately, and they played well.
Peter the Great must have loved one
color above all others, and that very
Sich, soft orange, inclining toward amber.
He found, no doubt. that its luscious Ell
fulgency agreed well with country which,
though verdant enough In June. must be
rather triste in January, for which reason,
aieo. It is welded to the rich gliding that
every Russian adores, since it sparkles SO
admirably above wintry Landscape OF
pure white snow This place Of Peters,
built by Leblond under his directions, is
eolored orange still.
The fountains at Peterhof had been men
toned as ine, but the ones in the park
were not impressive. Hence 1t was with
q rsyuision Of feeling from disappointment
to intensest admiration that the real dis.
play was met beneath the terrace in the
front Of the palace. after leaving the park
Such an exquisitely proportioned and ar.
ranged demonstration Of water had never
seen, nor had any memory with which to
compare Il, either-not even the display
At Versailles; and that was all the better.
Trickery no one would impute to the
methods by which Russian architects pro-
duce the magnificent results that crown
their efforts in their displays; the word
Is too paltry and means too low thing to
father on them. Yet they always, when
they make the effort, succeed in accom-
plishing q surprise; in Petersburg. on the
side Of great and solid magnificence; at
Peterhof, on that Of frankly childish in
genuity. Everything within this wonder
full park is fresh, diverting, unexpected,
and lovely. But to revert to the foun-
tatns.
A steep bank beneath the terrace dips
to . series OF marble plateaus, each enc
Of majestic length and broken up at in
tervals by marble steps. From the deep
est hollow springs the Samson. colos-
sal bronze figure tearing open the jaws
Of q lion from which volume of water
spouts eighty feet high. This is the tour
de force Of the assemblage. but Its mag
n:ncence is hugely enhanced by the my
RAIDS Of fountains all around about 1t. They
foam piume-like in vertical and horizon
tai streams. cascade down the marble
stairs. mingle their liquid pearls in show
ers. and then spray in gossamer wells at
the winds will while still farther away
from the Samson, through beauteous
wood. runs the harbor canal, crossed here
and there by marble causeways and set
on either side with festooning sparkling
columns OF water. At the end of the Ii
QutQ dNeuue idU luc Waves VI Tue
Of Finland, and Cronstadt Is visible in
the distance As / looked through the
wreathed mists of the fountains. across
the little peep of sea at the end glided
o pleasure steamer from Petersburg, gala
dressed all over with myriads Of colored
dags. II was the prettiest holiday scene
anyone could wish to see and to find one
more uncommon II would be necessary
TO search very far afield.
Yet this was merely the threshold of
wonders. The drosky driver, summoned
from his fellows, proceeded, as IL by rule.
to the woods beneath the fountains. driv-
ing along the narrow, well-kept, pathlike
roads past all sorts of diverting little
pleasure hooks. Successive Cars must
have amused themselves with experiments
in water. One fountain forms q liquid
pyramid composed OF mass Of jets: an
other rises with stately grace in the CEN
tire of a classical ring Of columns: third
is Just a silly little pond fonntaincd in
the centre and arranged with ID mechani-
cal hunting scene; foresters with their
dogs, ducks, and what not, warranted to
''play up" magniicently, and with realis-
tic Quacks. barks. and bangs.
Then there are the cottages. Marty and
are built in with "reminiscences
Of Peter the Great, who lived there. They
are tiny palaces; summer houses where
the Gar could live in seclusion and medi-
tate on those plans OF his which were 10
help Russia to become SO powerful; watch
Ing from his sea-washed garden his infant
(Ieet moored beneath the batteries OF
Now these gay little places are
both museums.
The custodians at Marty and Monplaisir
both display Peters dressing gown and
night attire, his slippers and other bits OF
personal attire: at Marty they treasure a