The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1900-05-29
ART OF THE
PARIS COOK
Surprising Economy in
Kitchens.
THE COOKING ACADEMY
American Culinary Devices Make
Chiefs Wonder But Do Not At
tract The Gordon BIeu.


PARIS, MayNI5-Paris is putting her
best foot foremost just now to show
savage Foreigners, from the boiled beef
Englishman to the pie-eating American.
that the mostfciyilfzef man in the world
is the one who is most scientifically, dain-
thy and, above all. economically fed
The Frenchman is, making no great fuss
over his displays of. raw foodstuffs at the
Exposition. leaving that to the American
and to Russia and Australia but he is
rather inordnately proud of his demon
strations of the art of cookery and his
economic and scientific achievements
therein.
This is the reason why. in spite of the
charms of great pictures, statuary, Swiss
villages and elegant costumes under
glass tn" exhibitions of cooking stoves in
Machinery Nall is constantly crowded.
and in the Fine Arts building there is
daily laii before an admiring crowd
state bahquEt. that is nit to set before IL
king. :
What Will appeal most to the Ameri-
can woman, son ner first visit to that
department -Df. the fair where culinary
apparatus are exhibited, is the tremen-
dous strides The United States have made
groups of wn5te-capped French men and
women cookS hang about the display of
electric ranges. So far, in the biggest Pa
risian kitchens, such device is un-
known. The French chef is a great man.
but he is touchingly conservative. He
looks with amazemeut on the gas ranges
from the states and with no little admir-
alton, trs Ind he is willing tn confess
thdJ as II 4arls ultra scientific appliances
Americans lead the world. He admits
! 90, that in the conserving of raw mate
rial. from beef to mayonaise dressing the
Ma nufacturers of the United States could
accept handicap and beat the universe.
sun he goes back to the big cast-iron
coal-fed French ranges, to the tiny gas
ovens and little oil stoves, and insists
that with such simple means Paris is
still the best fed of all the great cities;
also that the Partisan chef still stands
unrivalled at the top of his art and that
| in the clever solution of some tremendous
economic food problems the French can
| teach valuable lessons to the world.
To a fairmnded woman, genuinely in
| terested in domestic economy, nothing
else illustrates the French argument like
| a visit to the fuel shops OF Paris. If the
| French still cling to coal and gas it is
| because they find it far cheaper than
electricity, and in the production of mex
pensive kitchen fuel they are unrivalled.
/ Three wholly different kinds of what is
called body fuel are sold in the coal yards,
| a slow coal, a coke and charcoal and
| these, with four different sorts OF com
posite preparation, are used for the rcgu-
| alton of the range fire.
when the morning flame is started in
| a Partisan house or restaurant the cook
! begins with paper and maGolins, then
| coal in good fresh Jumps. Magolins are
| fagots from the forest, the dry droppings
/ OF the trees, not any part of the trunk OF
| big boughs. and in consequence this
woodland waste, carefully sgathered all
4 the year through and bound in withe-tied
| bundles, can be sold at the small sum of
| a sou bunch. It's the best and cheapest
| tinder wood ever put on the market and
I t..,- rfrNer
| she begins to regulate her fire ineXpen-
| sively by putting on boulets. They are
! nothing more than coal dust pressed into
| nricks or egg-shaped Jumps, the refuse of
| :he coal yard all turned into valuable
| fuel that burns very slowly, but with an
intense heat and a Steadier glow than
| the best of small hard coal, and il is
| easy to guess at how much less expense.
If at any time during the day the range
| fire weakens there is no reckless waste
! by dumping and rebuilding or restoring
| with "A quantity of kindling wood. Bri-
| quetteS or allumettes landaiSeS or fagots
are thrust here and there among the en-
| bers and rekindle the whole. Briquettes
| and fagotS cost three cents bundle and
| are made of wood chips, sawdust, the
odds and ends of scraps, of the wood
| yard all moulded into little cakes that
| look amazingly like dog biscuit and that
are stuck together with a preparation far
more infammable and certainly far safer
| than the libation of coal oil which the
! careless American cook pours on her de-
spending fire. Allumettes landaises are
really a triumph of the French interpre-
| tation of the motto waste not, want
| not" They are corncobs, big and little,
put through resin baths and a half dozen
| Of these cheap devices thrust into appar-
emily lifeless coal will bring it up into
! hourishing fire in a jiffy.
! Now with coal selling in France during
| the winter at little short of S13 a ton,
| the French cook, in private house or
| restaurant. actually eXpends less on the
| fuel than an American cook who can
have her coal supply at half the price.
| That is one reason why the Partisan cook
| looks with dismay at costly electricity.
| 10 into the newest hotels where the
! ranges are as big as locomotives and all
| he way from the old Cafe Nachette to
| the grand new Palace Hotel on the
| Champs Elysees, and it will be found that
| one of the causes of dainty French cook
| cry is the great number of simple little
| stoves and furnaces they use for prepar-
ing. various dishes
/ French oven or stove TO see how artfully
waste is headed off at every point, ana
| vet the efficacy of the heat not lessened.
| When French cook is preparing a little
| dinner he does not pretend to heat his
| whole iron range for the purpose. The
| big metal machine is so built that he can
| throw all the strength of his fire directly
the roasting mutton. while he sets go
ing in another corner of the kitchen, un-
| r a balm marie, a single gas jet, and
hen preDares in a thru little oven hardl
bigger than soup tureen his pair OF
fowls. 1t Is quite true that his gas stove
looks to the Western mind very like a
oil house affair that is apt to drop sud
:, lenly TO pieces If any strain is put upon
hut while the American has advanced
-ap'dly along lines of marvellous mech
nism. the Frenchman has kept economy
monitor over his progress. His ga
-0rEe is not handsome, but when h.
turns a Jet not one particle of heat :
wasted, and he can with his inconsequen