The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-03-25

shake them of as to detach so many
leeches, and hoping by liberal donation
TO escape further violence, his hand seeks
his pocket then a blow from a bludgeon
on the back of the head fells him to the
earth and a knife quickly does the rest.
Some time afterward the country patrol
finds a naked corpse by the roadside, with
nothing whatever about 1t that may lead
to Identification. He buries ii on the
spot, and piously plants above il a cross,
whose wide-open arms are a perpetual
appeal TO passers-by for prayers for the
unshriven soul. Ninety-nine times in a
hundred, nothing more is ever done. The
victims friends probably never hear of
the circumstance, and the local authori-
ties are not given to troubling themselves
over such common occurrences, SO cheaply
is life held in Spain.
In the Streets of Seville.
Crossing the bridge which spans the
Guadalquivir, opposite the Golden Tower
of Seville, you find yourself at once amid
Triana's gloomy lanes. the haunt Of foot
PADS and smugglers, from which ragged
multitude stink away at your approach
as If the earth swallowed them. like rats
scurrying into their holes: but all the time
you hare an uneasy consciousness of men
acing e,res watching you from cCncealment
and furtiye footsteps in your wake. II
would be the height of folly for foreigner
to venture there alone. even at midday,
and our small party was wisely augmented
by three citizens OF Seville. whose failure
10 return would certainly be investigated.
1t was at Triana where Murillo found the
ragged boy studies which rendered his
fame immortal. His Santa Rufna and
Santa Justina. now regarded as the patron
saints of Seville were also painted from
Triana gypsy models. in remembrance OF
the two maldens who were stoned TO
death by the Romans. on this very spot.
for refusing to worship the image OF
Venus. Those martyrs of long ago were
makers of pottery, exactly like that which
is made today in Triana, and sold on the
street corners. The Moorish name OF the
place is Jaravanah. and is supposed to he
a corruption OF Trajana, bestowed in honor
of the Emperor Trajan, who was horn two
OF three miles above.
The banks of the Guadalquiyir frequently
overflow in the winter, and then this
dirty suburb suffers most severely. The
lower streets of Seville are supplied with
malecones, or matches. which are shut
down in time TO keep out most of the
water; but there are no such convenience
in Triana, and many times II has been
well-nigh swept away. During the Deem
Der floods of a few years ago, thousands OF
the gypsies were drowned or persisted from
starvation. For eight days their only food
was loaves of bread which they could catch
hold of and draw from the swirling cur
rent, thrown from boats by charitable per-
sons who were literally obeying the Scrip
tural injunction Of casting their bread upon
the waters. Seville was also in great dis
tress, the floods mounting TO the cathedral
doors, and the whole city in darkness be-
cause the gas works were under water.
Aside from the people, there are not
many objects Of interest In Triana. To
the right Of the bridge, the once formid-
able castle afterward served for many
years as the Inquisition. Being almost
swept away by food. the dread tribunal
was removed to a palace in the Gale de
San Marcos. on the other side of the river,
and thence 10 its last Sevillian quarters
in the Alameda Vieia. There is a queer
old church IN the gypsy suburb. called the
ParroQuia de Santa Ana built by Alfonso
al Sabio In the year 1876 II is a fine
specimen OF Gothic architecture. with
pointed doorway. nave and aisles support
ed on ponderous columns. IL contains n
great many paintings by Campana and
Other artists OF the day; and the quaint
tomb of some ong-forgotten bishop, coy
cred with gorgeous purple and yellow tiles.
Crossing small park. overgrown with
weeds and clustered with rubbish, our
guide conducted US TO house whore he