Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-11-03
FEATHERS.
How They Will he Used in Hats for
Fall and Winter.

From the Millinery Trade Review.
The most salient feature in the new MILL
merry of the month is the variety of modes
devised for the arrangement of argus ccu-
teaux and other large, plain or fancy cou-
teaux. These feathers promise to be in
great vogue throughout the fall and carly
winter to such an extent, indeed, that the
supply bids fair to be unequal to the de-
mand, at least SO far real argus is con-
cerned. Fancy feathers, of course. can be
provided ad libitum; and, with the new
processes, which include the extraction of
color as well the cleverest application
of it, initiating natural markings to per
lection, constant variety may be obtained.
The most priced are the very largest
feathers of a size not hitherto made use of.
Many of them are eighteen inches long and
broad in proportion: hut the more usual
lengths are Fl I'm twelve to fifteen inches.
Two, foot long. may be placed on one hat.
sweeping round each side from bow or
pouf either set symmetricaly in front or
slightly on one side.
The feather is, Of course. curved so as to
adjust it to the shape of the hat, and it may
have an extra curve at the stem so as to
give it a particularly graceful movement as
it juts out from the front trimming. Two
feathers one considerably longer than the
other, are used with effect on a fat-cruwned
felt hat with a double brim, intended to be
worn tilted very decidedly to the right; the
longer fastened to the right side of the brin
by loop of velvet run through a buckle
and the shorter secured between the brms
to the left. the under brim. this side
being pleated lengthways underneath the
feather, the extremity of which is curved
so as to curl down behind the ear. This is
carried out in lght-brown felt, argus
plumes and emerald-green velvet
Another pretty hat. rather toque made
of felt plateau of grayish shade of blue
of medium depth, tied up in knot in front
and sloping down in the neck behind (where
a buckle is placed at the base of the CROWN.
has two broad couteaux of medium length,
blue glace with white, inserted in the knot,
the stumps of the quilts sticking out right
and left
The very longest feathers are sometimes
used to encircle the edge of the brim of a
medum-sized hat. the stump and tip almost
meeting at the back. This arrangement is
chosen for a pale-beige felt hat worn off
the face, but not exactly turned up: the cou-
teau, a white one, with pale. taWny mark
ings, rests on the edge of the brim so as to
give somewhat the appearance of a turban.
Behind it, draped on the brim. is cream
lace veil, secured at the back by rosette
of black velvet, with a small buckle in its
center.
More frequently, however, these long cou-
teauX are chosen as the sole trimming of
soft felt undress hats to which they give
a very elegant appearance. For the fall
chalk-White and pale-beige hats of this type
will be in high fashion. The couteau may
have its quill end fastened to the right side
of the crown, almost at the back. and then
slanting upward, curve over the front of the
crown in a loop, jutting forward that the
tip rests against the left side of the crown
Another method consists in bending the
tip of the feather into curl and then fast
enng it to the crown. that the end of the
quill is at the base Of the crown on the left,