The Oskaloosa herald., 1900-07-05

with complete confidence the reno
waited combinations of the most femi-
nine and coquettish Of queens-Marle
Antoinette. of fascinating and tragic
memory. We are about to see live
again the foamy whiteness of lawns,
embroidered muslins, gauZes and
tulles, which decked the royal shep-
herdesses of the Trianon; the soft
and brilliant taffetas, with their lumin-
Gus effects borrowed from the dawn or
the expiring twilight. These soft silks
are embroidered, incrusted, "adjou-
rees" with a thousand different pat
terms to give them an airy effect. The
soft, striped silks or satins are orna-
mented with bouquets or garlands of
flowers, wreaths, bows, and quivers
decked with ribbons, recalling to mind
the gallant period.
Ribbons will be the favorite material
for trimmings, and there will be in
Vulnerable varieties-silk, satin mixed
with velvet, ornamented with printed
flowers. studded with spangles, sown
with small flowers, baskets or bou-
quets of flowers, and lastly narrow
black velvet ribbon in the purest Louis
XVI. style, will cast its note, "sombre
ct caressante," over the most radiant
and brilliant colors, just as the
"mouche assaSsine" of our great-grand-
mothers heightened the bright carmine
of their painted cheeks.
Summer CoIors.
These charming and tender colors,
however, should only bask in the IRA
dating light Of summer. In the mean
time we have before us transitory
period, in which a woman must depend
on her personal initiative to maintain
her elegance and distinction. One
must not be infatuated with the first
novelties that appear, but must by
skilful changes prepare for the future
fashion, and gently accustom the eye
to the tyranny of the sovereign who
will reign tomorrow. The necks OF
dresses have a slight tendency to di-
minish in height, but the necktie,
twice around, the tulle scarf appearing
above the waistcoat, is still high. With
evening mantles the neck trimming no
longer envelopes the nape Of the neck
| or buries the chin. The neck appears
disengaged from the fluffy folds OF the
hood, Thus the clever dressmakers
are guiding us by their sure counsel.
| Our skirts, which hardly a year ago
closely enclosed our forms, have been
increased this winter by broad dou-
BILE plat. This summer some gathers
are to be added at the hips, the grace
full widening Of the bottom being still
preserved, so becomingly and so de-
| lightfully, with a mass Of founces,
ruches and fal-lals which support the
soft curves Of the material. Sleeves
have even lost the light swelling out
line which was granted them only q
short time ago. They are to be abso.
lutely fiat down to the elbows, and II
there is any extension, It will certain
" be at the wrists, as has been fore
Swallowed by the charming costume
worn by Rejane in lie Begun" at the
Vaudeville, which seems to suggest a
return to the wide sleeves and delight
full "Amadis" of cool lawn which was
so much in favor in the reign of Louis
! XIV. With these necessarily come the
small nantes "a la vieille," with
which women enveloped themselves in
cloudy and altogether charming
mass,
The Coquettish BolerOs
For the place Of the coquettish bo'
leros finally adopted for tailor made
costumes, the habit, the dapper habit
will set up serious rivalry, and will
claim the attraction of novelty-hab
its with basques, with large basquines
with broad lapels and small capes, will
open over marvellous waistcoats, bill
lowy with frills of handsome yelloweC
lace or old point; with cuffs whence
escape ends of valuable old guipur,
falling over the wrists, and witt
buttons of antique strass or fine fiji
gree steel, adding their quiet brillianc.
to these smart garments. In regar'
to the Jackets of tailor made costume
there is a return to the classical turn
down cape, which is the real note o
the costume. For this style OF cos
tune, cloth still retains the popularit