davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-09-23
Drawn Rug Making In Maine.

CENTRE Lowell, Me. Sept. % - An In
terc-tiug attempt il now going on NJ Gem
tire Lowell Under the direction Of Mr. and
Mrs Douglas Nolk The possibilities ~ us
New England drawn rug are being tested IN
a practical way Mr.. Nolk hnS long been in
terested a. an artist IN he arts and crafts
movement. and has irl' that some OF the peo-
pie Of lowell. his summer home. might be- iu-
duced tu work At designs furnished by himself
and his vile
Il" had tor encouragement the success ~
hi former pupil, Mrs John Alber ur Chooorua,
y a. who has within the last two or threN
years exploited the rug industry 10 such an
extent that she aud her naighbOrs have sold
inward of three hundred rug, at good price.
ThnS' o%rr0fiou, which Mrs Albee j. putin,
on the market are the rag rugs familiar IN every
New England il.Ul uIsn The Nolk "SCba'-
tOS' rug differ. ia bong iundn directly from
the warn which pllled with a hook through
the hurlap tho and, or pile, being then
sheauod ol Co an oven length
AlthOugh iui- industry has barely been
started. many people 40" IN n a great future
Three Of the rugs designed 10y Mrs Nolk W"re
shown Ia NrN York lat winter and gained
thn enthusiastic attention of a number NJ 'ia
mr.lbcr~ of the society of American Artist
Several orders were placed AZ the time, and y
became evident that the work has a prospect
at financial success \ few DAYS ago the NulN
homestead was surprised by the grriva! %. =
large COn-iguu Put Of wool from the Long
Island c-iat. of u wealthy New York woman,
the yarn from b. Ia be made up into Noba''oS
rugs This ucau~ several weeks o. W"rS
for Mrs Nu'F aud her assistants
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-09-23

rbr IDS lIic, # busy, lilc that Thomas HARDY tie
piulcd iu Tess Of In" ~ rbcrviles" now prefer
10 10 10 the nearest town and take employment
iu a shop. uulcs, thCN ARE able 10 get up to Iui-
don ana enjoy the life Of the metropolis, Dairy
farmer, IN England are compelled To- send 10
scotland. WIIrro the ucruuHtiOu Of the dairy
maid il not ct held to hp Of such poor account.
Tue prospect. uf such workers in the Trans
wal are said 20 be- better than those awaiting
most ~ 'hp women likely to eUigratc there.
Nur~pry gUN"rup~~eS, women with no particular
ideas a. To- the occupation they will follow, but
viii turn M. aud Others that have failed In what
ever the, have previously attempted. are sad
To hr arranging 10 "ulgratc 10 the 1ransvaal.
where uulN dl~-appoluiiueni awaits them. be-
J. demanded there. II l. said Ia be- impossible
to buN a pound 81 pdlblp butter in south Africa.
although the IranSVaHl could supply an thc but
ter and cheese needed and that Of tho highest
ulaIi', If there were only capable dairy women
Z" do the work. The B0er women, Hs well A.
~" natiN"-buru workers IN the diaries. are said
to nav" no idea ~ cleanliness. and the natural
circumstances that make the country capable
Of producing good butter aud cheese count for
nothing. The Instruments ~tlI In Use are Of the
Cr1ldrsi Kind. None II the modern means 10
facilitate dairy work exists. and the women who
nre invited Ia come and lead "A pleasant outdoor
life IN a lovely clima'c and enjoy n fair salary
and ~ much comfort IA a colonial farm lfa
offers are expected to know their business.
without the necessity Of having the most mod
ern appliances NJ their command. Most Of the
l'uIlrn'enlS in We are made, indeed. by the
kHflr Workmen.
Pouitr. women are as much i'm demand
a. N" iloer women are said 10 have no talent
Of any kind for farming Women who are in
any degree skilled IN keeping poultry and In
DAIRY work are assured that they can have em-
and that promises 10 he one OF the most impor-
taUt in the Trausvaal.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-09-23

tic rrevulCu~ Of costume PLAYS interferes
with me first nights value a, = criterion Of the
SEASONS styles. one evening gown worn on
the -tagr deserve attention. though lis charm
l. rather of the understandable sur1. II i Of
dotted white net over satin, n" net eKqiItsitely
palette in silver Silver scrolls fall loosely
across the arms and a narrow fold ~ net holds
the bodice at the right shoulder, while on the
LETT side the shoulder - rap Is of silver tissue
and purple panur shading into the purple velvet
orchids hat trail down the lett side of the bodice.
A girdle OF silver tissue l. drawn through n
brilliant buckle a. the bach and falls In sash
ends tipped with tiny brilliant balls.
Another Stage gown. charming. though In
no way especially novel, is Of pink wolfe. The
skirt, tucked at the sides, has a row Of open
work hCrriughone down IN" front and two
row. 81 1t around the bottom. \ bolsro Of
lace has a border Of stitched pink ranne, Vest
former heinz ,hIrrrd TO a yoke Of lace cut Ia Oh
demi-de 'oilcle The sleeves are trimmed
with Din" rucks and open work stitching, and
N" girdl' 4. Of pam" velvet.
Red gowns are seen on every hand, and arr
particularly h~eautiful in the soft cloths and la
the new crtpc- They are being made n tribe
barbara with superb heavy appliques of black
ecru and gold, and beautiful Oriental en-
hroidrrioS and gallons but the vivid color l.
refreshing, after 80 pronounced a reisn OF
pastel shades, and agrees with the crisp cool
air ~ these first autumn days The autumn
materials. save In evening stuis. seem ro -how
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-09-23

nodas blos.o,psd ont IN tho windovs a,rIv in
srpt.r,bsr hint tbsv were msralv ike tho erat
ui,nt NJ Grim .on IN spmaob h,she. Wise ner-
,bants do NOT d,snIav THAR waros untI tina
woman vho huv than ar. onca mora out unon
I'm. ala snornipo t,sn ana ., "a onIv duipg mi
las, vssk that shon Indows have taksn on
roo alInr.rsnt
rbers 10 a, ,,tsr..,ro s,,,d, ,,- ,bo soo,o,o
,I., In IA. gradual ayolr,i,n ~ pa. or,,r,,
.,o. w;ndov som. big .,oras shov tha A.,
ton, ~ ,r,,u, E,o ~ hi, ., ,,a,r oo,
rnnoue comes from, tho .toy-oT.b,ms or I've
-.aLs, yacoror na,r, I'D H.. no 90
%, bold,rg hooL ~. yau d,s,Ioy U,,ra
Iotor ,ho r,or, .,oL,.t,, L., h.. ,n.
ra,,rrtr, Uc. ard ,,, au, ,,n,,..a -.
.u,nwr oolo-rr rni,n .oraod ard r,,i,t,I-
,hro,nh san,anahr - 49, ~, ~,
- .,ui al, -. 49,, -.
r.at,h, 49, - no. anJ - .Ln -
80 a. wv ,l,.
.nntnI anr - ~" r.o
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-09-23
THINGS TO AVOID IN DRESS.
TEMPTATIONS ron WOMEN VINO KNOW
WHiT INCOMES THEM.

smoking Among women Here. and Queens In
Europe Who Use Cigarettes Actresses who
Have Disappeared In Part During the sam
mer-Chanoes for women In the Tfansyaal.
Avoid the obvious In dress. said the woman
who thinks rs much about what her friends
wear ns about her own clothes. and be e~pc-
cially careful ~ this time Of year. know that II
l. nov one Of the most natural things In the
world TO IIt a red velvet bow on your black
hat. II looks 50 warm aud cheerful on th"-''
overcast nutumu days But avoid II ~ care
fully ~ you would % green we'd. VI" sam"
thought will occur 20 nine women out of every
ten S"yru out uf that nine will put their ld'a-
into practical effect. H. th" end NJ next week
the bow l. going To be- ~ familiar "a sight ~
the polka dot chou on the sailor hat has been
since the first at June And, besides, vOu may
be- sure that your purpose viii be- plain to every
woman who sees YOU. She put that bow In
her hat viii be- tlr general opinion, 'becalse
she thinks II look- bright and appropriate on
lhesr fall day
You ought never 10 do anything which
makes your purpos' 40 plain 70 everybody
that secs YOU. know "A ddrk-hHired, dark
eyed woman who looks especially well Ia a
shade OF vivid yellow that not one woman I'm
a thousand could ever put on without being n
fright. Well, it suits her very well, and OCca-
sionally II would be- stunning for her 10 appear
I'm y dress Of this color or with u bit Of II some
where about her. But she aver takes II of.
! never saw her A. night. bat I'd ik" to bet
thai she sleeps In something made of that color.
EyerybOdy's IMPRESSION ~ her. after she has
been %een once ar twice dre-~'d IN this unuHuHl
way. IS that she l. 50 proud ot being alb" u"
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-09-23
stories About a Kentucky spring.

YUM IN" .Nhfs'I EiNA'ftr
On lat Monday, Ira Brown, son Of Mr. {
+ NcNander. NARROWLY escaped drowning iu
the Biz Spring, the head &C Black lioi; Creek
Young Brown, having recently become a citi-
zen Of this town, va ~uuacuuaintrd with the
depth ana danger 81 this ,pr!nE, and drove hi
horse and surrey into the water and wash.
when he advanced too far from the edge Of The
spring, and hiS horse and vehicle fell over the
ahrupt opening oi this deep spring nt water
and would have been lost only for the fact thar
"A large tree had In other days been irlled across
this deep opening below tho surface of tic
water, on which the surrey rested
In" young man had presence II mind enough
10 Jump toward the edge. and. bv holding tho
r"lu- tightly, succeeded IN keeping The animals
head nbov" the water until help could arrive.
which, nv Nh" Use ~ roI e., succeeded IN got
ing the horse uut ~ the water, the harness
having fr~t been Cui loose
. me diameter Of This spring i perhaps forty
Get. and no one has ever succeeded In finding
The bottom. Iu the early history Of Auburn,
n stranger drove hi- wagon and team into this
place. not knowing ~" depth, and miraculou-lv
'~"uIcd with his horses His wagon went
down and was never found.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-09-23

and the vest II Of blue while the girdle ls 81
black velvet.
Black and white. relieved by touches Of blue.
IL one Of the seasons most popular gown mOtVH.
Rough black novelty wool. with u white dot
or line, mad" up with u mere suggestion oi
light blue cloth. and gold and blGck braid
makes u remarkably stylish street suIl' ana
II l. easy 10 find a chic black and white touhr
10 ~ with the costume \ gown 81 -in"olh
finished black aud whit" wool - gwen IN q
cut The bluu-"d bodice has broad r"N"rs
81 blu" cloth stitched in blHck, viii an ap-
pliuuG edge Of black. gold, aud a touch Of "cru
4 broad applied band of blue ClOth runs down
the front 81 the bodice. giving n Nai-tcOal
effect, and j. finished with black stitching
and two rows Of gold buttons ia" bIu"
stitched pla-tron and collar has an edge oil
black velvet and gold and N" glrdlr ~ OF black
velvet
on. or the most successful dre~sinakrI"
IN the city has Just completed an evening gown
In black and white and blue, which was copied
from Paris model IL l. made Of white clinton
over satin. aud is trimmed In cut-out designs
Of black chantilly applied To the chlnon The
pattern of this applique II the thing that gives
style to the Cow u. for Il IS a design OF dar'lhg
swallow and these black lace birds IRE arranged
In most clever fashion upon the skirt and bodice
The shoulder straps and u soft girdle with
long scarf ends, down which dart IA line or
swallows. are Of blue cicl panne velvet
4 house gown. turned ont by the same maker,
has rather an old-fashioned air, with its COM,
hlnatlon of plain and dotted soft wool. and
H. draped tunic The under blouse and skirt
are Of a soft lavender dotted with black, and
the tlnic overskirt l. stitched in a fat triple
ulsat down the lett front. almost To- the
knee, where II ends IN a square black velvet
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-09-23

to the corset. Verify the way of tn" correctly
dressed woman IL hard The waists. being
full m front. are a trllr thick In the belt and
hard 10 pin 10 the corset, bu' tho waist should
be cut Of at the waist line On the back and sides
and in a long point IN front. Then It should
be bound and pressed carefully. Directly lu
front should be Sewed two tab- Of some firm
stun that will lie ha' and not he buugle~on".
and these tabs may hc easily pinned or hooked
to the corset. 81 holding the waist down ~
place.
4 waist of white ghtwc!ght sInuoth-tini~h"u
cloth, shown in one of the cuts, Is tucked NerJi-
caly with a dark red silk. The tucked collar flares
at the edge and Is bordered by a band II ORR
entail embroidery. in which rich rod predom-
mates. The white piaslrpn has a cola edge
with The embroidery, and the scarf and girdlo
are Of soft lecony red silk. ,nother waist.
rather more elaborate, l. of white wool. with a
black embroidered dot. II : trimmed with
finely tucked bands Of turquoise blue tGneta
across which down the fronts pass black velvet
straps drawn through swall gold buck cs. The
edge - the cloth. whore 10 T., laid over the tucked
bands. L. soalloped, aud a tiuy mo ~ gold cord
follows tho scallop- \ long point 81 the blue
tucking. strapped across with velvet, IL Let
into the upper part ot M" sleeve The collar
Is strapped with velvet ending IN gold buckles.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-09-23

their weight ~ gold, \]aultiug feminine an
hiiIon must hHy" II fail when II comes up against
saOle-. The only way to have good FUR
lsto nay a good round price al out OF proportion
to any moderate income.
Ot course sable and tho rare grades ~ fox
hold their supremacy seal l. more rNpe n,ivr
than eyer before. but bonds Itself 50 beautifully
to the voluminou. andlIyuriou~ cluuk~in vogue
that women viii have 10. tLinohilIa and crminr
are IN" popular trimming fur- aud Persian lamb.
particularly ~" baby lamb whose Use j. a blot
upon humanity. j. used rxtrayagaHt'y.
The large cut shows several Of thc long coats
that ara the desire u wOman'- heart thi, TALL
but are ttbuUed save to those whose bank ac-
counts are plrthuric. one Of the ha~ndSumest
l. a model designed for Patti. 10 whose bank
fur coats have contributed az one time or an
other II shows the popular tendency to conf
bine several furs in one garment q custom Of
dubious last" and effect, but. IN This case, sue
caS.utl TIA" long loose cloak j. Of baby lamb
and j. linedihrouEhUut with heavy white satin
Tie fronts are faced back almost 10 the side
seams with erminc. and the huge collar and
revrrs are lined with c]rIuiuo. while the yoke and
shoulder collar are II sable. and % sable mun
i carried with the wTGp. \ >ocorpl baby PorS-
ian lamb cloak has rey"r- Of Persian sable. n
broad collar Of heavy gold and ecru lace ap-
piled upon the lamb wool The wristbands ofthc
flll bishop sleeves are nlSo-pflacr lpplirueto fur.
From one Of the mot famous designers of
Paris comes the Empip cloak in cloth and
Tho body of the cloak is IN violet
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-09-23

Harmed appear TO have faded away while
sh" was absent from New York. Time was
when excessive dvuirdupoi, threatened Jo
damage Mis- llarned'- lovclino~- irrcmediahlv.
She got we'll beyond tn" POSSIBLE proportions
81 The girlSh heroine az one time. But Miss
Harmed i once more slim. and a. Optcid l.
quite a. slight ~ she need be. Even i'm the
flowing white robes of the mad -cene she il
now slim enough 10 wear gracefully draperies
mat would destroy any Womln'S outlines if
there was The least tendency to h~ullinesS
Mi~s Harnrd~ gown in the later scenes of tho
play Is an exact copy OF the dress made for
MN" CalNc, appearances AT the Opera i'm
rarls a year ago last spring a. the heroine
OF Ainbrol~e lholn1~~ opera. Even the morn
Ing gluric, about the head and the vine fall
ing from th" shoulders urc copied from the
French singers dress. Mime. Calv6 never
wore the costume here, for Hamlet" was moi
sung last season ~ the Mrtruuolitan But
ul'ie We're many photographs Of her in the rlIo
aud Mis- Harmed could uot have copied a better
model.
II she had followed one equally good for the
IDEA 81 her ir-l costume. audiences would have
seen something mon. original 'gau t|,. con
N%"ntlonai ralr-bluo and silver that Cphchg v.or.
~ me hr,,, Icrnr7 This is a court costume
tlat niL1t belong Ia any period Most Of
the. priWa dounl~ az the opera houSa wear
.uSt such a dress for JUU,ti'. although the COS
TUNES az the Metrppuli,an are generally mora
expensive than those Of tL,atrIrai Ernd,ic-
lions Nine M"lhl wore q beautiful Gown
two years aco A. Julic0. L vas indeed ~"
hAhd-o'nc-t costume of Gu" kind that Ind a,cr
been sceu al n" theatre Last wear Nine
SrinbilCh. IN ol" Performance Of Guunod'.
opera allnared ~ a stUl more da22linglv costly
Eanes, with her own radiant hpauty 10 od
hrr, NaN Away dressed the role much more
sllllIN conventional CO~turnr~ arc TO- h.,
~rNreot"d IN operate ~rformapces vbi,b ~"
~ tlrIuN'Iv"> a most conventional form Of 49,
~ The Theatre greater orgiu,Iuv
bui '"-ilWlrG on tup operate tag. l. in, ir
adNaIo" Of IN" theatre. 80 far a. This uuaUiw
''hcril"d Probably the fact thai the
nous EIr"p"an designer and makers /, re-
-poh-ible for hi
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-09-23
PRILLS or

White chiffon tucked with gold thread and
aid over gold tissue IL one Of the latest and
r]rcttcst fancies for vests. collars and the like.
Red hats grow more and more audacious.
Red fclts or velvet turbaus trimmed in scarlet
velvet gcraniums or sprawling velvet poupies
fame In almost all Of the millinery windows on
F1fth avenue.
Some Of the strapped evening slippers have
pleated lace fans set in under the straps and
pulled out In fan fashion over the lnstep,
White corduroy skirts are replacing tho
white pigut skirts now that cool days have
come; and are more practical than they seem.
easily as UiQut. II must. however. he ashed
carefully and pressed upon the wrong side
with an iron not too hot.
Heavy. hstrous hrocades in one tone are
once more in fashion. 10 tho unmiNed delight
fact Madame La Mode Is treating the dova'
gers particularly well this season. and both
materials and designs are. In the main, well
suited Ia elderly nIatrons.
Panre yelypts. embroidered or stamped IN
gold dot or other designs. are the latest do
velupUenis Of the gold craze. and n blue ranro
will gold dots has admirable possibilities In
millinery and dress trimmings.
The Alglon capes. shown in red, blue and
white cloths, are effective for autumn wear ~
the sea-hure or in the mountains. They Rre
full length. made u fine. heavy cloth and have
the traditional shoulder capes, revers and Hight
turnover collars braided in gold.
Plume made Of cocks feathers or cleaning
iridesCeut breast feathers are greatly used on
the low. broad hats instead Of ostrich pluWc1
and form the rim Of many Of the soft turhan-.
The narrow buckle of exaggerated length Is
conspicuous feature OF autumn millinery.
Gold trimmings have gone M about IN per
cent. in prica-a striking commentary on the
laVishncss with which dressmakeTs and miliners
are using them.
Pure white toilets are 10 he AZ popular
during the winter season a. they have been
during the summer, and are being prepared I'm
cloth n often IA In lighter materials for house
and evening wear. The white cloth gown md
white felt hat, IN combination with heavy fun,
will he q favoritc fad Of the woman to whom
expense and durability are OF no concern.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-09-23

even II II had not been her fate 10 rule over a
country IN which Nh" cigarette" - almost a. pop
ulur with m" Women u. II H. with the men Tia"
Queens Of ,rurt" aud Nur'rWburg were both
Russian Grand IuCh"~-c~ and their weakness
isfOt tOhHCCOiu tie Iurm Of rather strong Russian
cigarette that are mad" after the custom
In st Peter burg according To the formula they
have alNal used
The Queens OF tine litIlr Balkan counties
could not bc expected To- di,Ipu-e with this
attribut' of royalty, when they saw in courts
81 imIOrtdut 10 them a. thr Austrian and the
Russian. They have - little that belongs
to the uuprily station, besides the name, mat
they could be- forgiven Tor acquiring any hauii
they knew 10 be- popular with what W. =. (I-
bert calls regular, regular, dow nrlghi Que"n-.
So Carmen sylvia OF RoutniuiH and "N-Qu'"rn
natalie at Soryin are included in thr lit al
uutrIIV smokers. Even the -pIugNhd' HI~-
tore Hrnristt' of Belgium l. -aid Ia be a con-
hrmod cigarette smoker IN moderation, WIN
such examples before their ewes Il H. not sur
url-Iug that women who -muk" are much more
numerous abroad than they are IN the lul'"d
States. There T., one other marked difference
between them aud the American women. Who
take pleasure in q cigarette. Here the hahi
il nearly always an S~llmpt among Hl
but women Of n certain Cla~-. In Europe The
feminine smokers do Il because they enjoy
the effects Of a cigarette ll~t a. men do. ~
l. rs much a habit with them H. II i With men.
II IL not taken M there h"oHu~" II l. cosmo-
at the moment. Her" II j. usually some such
Cau., that makes u woman q smoker. But
in Europe il t. the enioymcnt To be- had from
the effects Of tobacco.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-09-23

bow tied through % gold buckle. the fulncss
falling loose below the bow The Jacket.
scalloped down the rront-and up the slit sleeves,
has the scallops held together over the blouse
by black velvet bows and gold buckles, save
from the bust 10 the waist line who're the seal
lops button with small gold buttons The
wa Ashland and girdle are of black velvet
The first nights al the theatres have been
calling out some attractive gowns, though
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-09-23

10 make the woman Of limited income turn
her face to the wall and weep. furs are the
one thing feminine ingenuity cannot get around.
The woman Of taste and style can obtain for
little money gown and hat eneCts that VIII
bear comparison with the raiment Of either the
lilies ~ The field or Solomon IN all hs glory:
but iurs are furS. Nothing takes their place,
and IN good quality they are worth almost
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-09-23

living abroad. who brides herself upon having
Sahles equal TO thosc Of ROYALTY
Fur coats Of almost any length are permisSi-
ble this season. for. while the English makers
cling TO three quarter lengths, IL" French
divide honors between very ~hor, and very
long coats Man waist lrnVth Etons with
stole front are seen In seal and Persian lamb.
and fancy rever,. applied lace and embroidery
and elaborate buttons play u great part in tho
iurri-r', arr just now one of the short coats
~ketched waS made Cor u bride and is in soft
rolden-browu otter with gold braided rever~
OF whit" panne and large sold buttons
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-09-23

son. must give the l~ong-waiSt effect, 80 the golf
skirt must be shaped down ia front. and that
makes the leather-helt problem a -ad one. The
best substitute Is n stitched band ~ cloth on
satin matching either the waist or the skirt
but there Is a new narrow leather belt that
draws down 10 a sharp point in front ana hooks
down 70 the skirt, which in Its turn must be-
hooked to the bodice. which j. fastened Down
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-09-23

cloth. applique with black and white. The
Empire bolero. fronts and draped collar, are
Of rhine, and a chou Of deep violet velvet
on the left shoulder passes down in folds
10 a second chou on the bust
Tho throe-quarter loose seal-kin coat with
immense reverS Of sable is one of the most
popular English models. the ~voluminous
sable cape MS made ir an American now