The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1900-10-30


avoid as long as possible the intens
heat of the plain. So far as any trae
of human habitation was concerned, w
might as well have been in the desert
but when the first dim light of daybreal
made distant objects visible what wa
my surprise to see great buildings o
European architecture rising out of e
mountain valley on our left.
THE monastery" my zaptieh turned
to explain, and then added in a tone o
Importance, But you would not be re
ceived there. 1t Is Trappist monas
terry, through whose doors no woman
lunay ever enter
There are about forty monks, French
men, and from the upper walks Of life
it is said. There they dwell, the noun
tain solitudes in keeping with theil
VOWS of perpetual silence. 1 recalled
what DR.. Sheppard had told US of his
visit to the place few years ago. He
was called to attend one Of the brothers
in the early stages of pulmonary tu-
berculosis. In examining the mans
lungs the doctor noticed his magniti-
cent muscular development, and COM
mented upon it to the superior. eyes, y
replied tht latter "he was the flower OF
the French army and led an expedition
across Africa once"
Dawn came on, playing the most fan
tastic FRANKS in the way of coloring the
sober old mountains and wide reach
ing plain. AS the sun rose there were
the ever new wonders of the plain. Sky
larks rose at my feet, but truth compels
me to say that they did not rise sing
| ing, as the poets would have us believe.
From some scarcely perceptible holes in
the crisp golden stubble stretched out
hard beaten brown paths from an
eighth of an inch to an inch wide and
several rods long. And when my course
crossed those paths what tragedies my
horses feet caused among the multi
tudes on those highways, who had gone
forth in the cool of the morning to bring
home their grain. The little creatures
Were the harvest ants, the most inter-
esting insect that I have ever seen.
Passing a bush with gray dry branch
es and a few struggling leaves, / was
surprised to see portion detach itself
and walk away, chameleon! Then
came the every day sights which never
became familiar after all. The village
woman, walking swiftly along, spinning
as she went, driving a tiny donkey
scarcely larger than a dog, laden with
two bushels of grain for some mill; the
quiet stream with the inevitable Turk
sitting cross-legged near it, gazing into
the waters; and my zaptieh, with his
barbarous outfit and the cheerful clang
of his arsenal breaking the intense still
ness around us.
About noon he seemed to think that
the sun had affected my head, because
l insisted on turning aside from the
path to a hill e quarter Of a mile away,
where rocks rose perpendicularly from
the steep sides. las they do every
where" he grumbled, when l insisted
on visiting them; but l had recognized
in them the Roman Wall for which /
had been told to look. | noticed with
pleasure the great blocks eff granite, cut
in the manner of modern western stone
mason work, the cement as hard as any
original rock, and the whole structure
looking as if it might have been done
ten years ago. There Is an inscription,
i am told, with the name of a pro-con
sui who lived before Christ. Indeed, in
that land the Romans are but the par
venues Of yesterday, and I turned to a
genuine piece of antiquity, which was
really the object of my visit. A wall
that Is wall joined that of the Ro
mans It was made of enormous rocks
of volcanic origin, partly squared, and
put together diamond fashion without
but fitting very well indeed, and
by their size dwarfling the Roman
blocks to insignificanc. "Who made
it ?" The Greeks who were there at
least three hundred years before Christ
would have told us glibly enough that
it was the work of the Cycops, and
when remember that they were in the
habit of breaking off Jumps from the
mountains to hurl at inoffensive mari |
ners like Ulysses, thereby causing the
Greek Islands (Which may be seen this |
day, in proof of the story, why, l am
inclined to accept this theory. | de- |
tached a small wedge from between two
rocks, hoping that there was no Cyclops |
with his one eye upon me, back in the
to punish me for imperti-
nence.
My zaptieh told me that there was
nothing there to look at, but that q few
hours further on there would be some
thing worth seeing-a fact l well know,
and that enabled me to endure the in
tolerable heat. But when | reached the
place, An geerlee, I was tired enough
to rest some hours In sight Of ruined
city without visiting it at once. And
now shall 1 describe what l found when
[ did go to- the place? Surely, i shall
have to fall back on guide book style,
sor though l can give you facts, I can
convey no adequate impression of what
saw.
1t was a Hittite city, conquered by
1sarhaddon, son OF the Sennacherib
who invaded the Kingdom of Judah in
Iezekiahs reign, and returned home to
De murdered by Esarhaddon, and an
'ther brother. (See Ii Kings xix, IS
md 81, and II Chronicles xxXi.) He
'uled from $50 to 667 q. c., and the talk
ng of this city was one Of the minor
Incidents in one Of his many cam
,aigns.
How do / know that he did all this?
Because he had a great statue of him
elf, with Boosting inscripture and stat
lie. Nothing Is allowed to be hope, ex-
ggerated, account of what he had done
O those luckless Hittites.
The Germans have been excavating
or years; but they left just before the
+olr i,arr h f1a1,t fny