The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1900-01-06
SKIRT FASHIONS.
Some Things In the Nodes
Settled For Time.
Styles This Season Suit Fig
ures of Every Kind.
ALL WOMEN CARED FOR
A New Rough Cloth For Tailor
Made Gowns.
Ideas For Costumes For the
Street Wear.
ALL WOMEN CARED FOR
Iron the New York SUM-

lEIOIu the New LO4h CAAA-l
The grand rush after Christmas pres
ents is all over once again, and dress,
with its endless chain of accessories,
can resume it's sway at the head Of the
shopping list To be sure, it never does
lose its regal crown altogether. but
there is a difference, a sort of side
tracked interest, in dress at holiday
time; but it promptly appropriates its
rightfuI place when the Christmas
shopping ends.
If Dame Fashion ever had any mis-
givings about her ability to please ev-
erybody, it is not this season, for there
is literally something suited to every
one, whether she is stout or slender. II
is the important matter of choice which
makes or detracts from her appearance,
and her failure to make suitable
choice is not the fault of the fashion
makers: they came early with a horn
of plenty filled to overlooking with ev-
cry kind of coat, every variety or bod
ice decoration, and a diversity in skirts
never equaIed before Fashion has
reached a climax, however. a settled
condition that will bring very little that
is new until visions of spring begin TO
materialize in the medium of gauzy ma
terials for summer wear.
Meanwhile all kinds Of gayety, all
sorts of functions which require variety
in dress, are in full swing. The gowns
which lead for day wear are made OF
the popular satin-faced cloth IN some
degree of simple or of decorated ele-
gance No other material used this
season can produce such pleasing and
varied results. There is a rough cloth,
but very fine and soft, with just a
suggestion of shaggy effect IN the hniSh,
which is very stylish for the severe
tailor-made gown and fOc the half
dressy costumes as well. In the light
beaver color, SO fashionably worn this
season. it is especially chic with black
and white forming the contrast in trim.
ming One very stunning costume OF
this cloth and color is made with
narrow front breadth set in like tab
Iier front with the sides tapping over
this. The edges are cut in medium
sized, rather broad points, which are
finished with piping of black satin.
A separate piece also cut in points, IS
added underneath both edges to give
the double effect, and an inch-Wide band
of satin extends from these points all
around the skirt directly on the edge.
headed by a row of black silk braid put
on in a simple coil design. The bodice
is an Elton coat meeting the waist lne
all around and quite close fitting. The
satin forms a belt finish shaping up TO
a point in the middle of the back and
a half girdle effect at either side OF the
front Medium sizes reVers and turn
down collar edged with the satin band
and braid are of white cloth tucked
crosswise and a band of cloth like the
gown cut in points is arranged turn IN
on either side of this white vest from
underneath the revers. The skirt has
one double box plait at the back.
The battle of skirts seems to have
been temporarily settled, leaving very
few doubts as to the fashionable choice
between the habit back skirt and the
plated skirt There are various KINDS
of plated skirts, but the latest reports
from Paris verify all the early predic-
lions for the ultimate success OF the
| pIaits We are warned that the habit
skirt is doomed; so it is plaitS sure
enough if you keep up to date. Bless
ings brighten as they take their flight,
and now that the skirt without plaits IS
going, it has been discovered that 1t Is
| infinitely lighter and easier to manage
in the street than any Of the newer
models, and made as it is, with the fas-
teniny at one side of the front, there is
always the certainty that there is no
| gaping at the back one thlng Tor
| which to be thankful is that we have
not jumped from the plain graceful
skirt to one Of unwieldly and foppy pro-
| portions. The fulness is there but 1t is
! so we'll confined below the hips that the
! effect is much the same. 1t is only
when you attempt to gather it up IN
! one hand to keep its trailing length out
| of the dust, that you are appreclapIy
| conscious of the difference.
one pretty skirt which is a plain one
with an addition, is tucked IN groups
| of three small tuclSs all the way around,
| is stitched down to within nine inches
| of the hem and fits the hips quite as
| closely as the habit skirt. All the
| skirts however they may be plated,
are gored in a pretty flaring shape so
| there is no Superf1uOuS fullness around
| the hips except enough to form the
plaits The skirt with a box plat at
| the back is doubtless the faVOrite model
| but this is varied in different ways by
! adding groups of fine tucks or plaits.
stitched well down on either side OF
the box plat and possibly a group OF
q cid r. hD from ar
may be stitched in tucks all around the
| skirt with spaces between the tucks.
A feature of the gowns where these
| tucks are employed is that the bodice
| is usually tucked to match A skirt
| which is found in Paris in thin ma
terials is box plated all around. The
! plaits meeting, and being well caught
| down TO the knees, below which they
| flare out gracefully. In another model
| the plaits begin at either side of the
| front, and in both cases they are well
| pressed and very fat around the hips
with no effect of fullneSS. Again the
| box plaits are arranged with spaces be-
| tween, which are fitted in with a lace
insertion This is very pretty for crepe
de Chine and the fine thin pOplinettes
/ so much used Three rows of insertion
| encircling the hips of a closely plated
| skirt are very effective, using the top
/ one for the belt finish and having wide
| spaces between Other skirts are plait-
1 ed after the manner of a Scotch kill,
| the plaits being caught down in the
/ usual way. The box plaits are usually
| graduated a little in width. which inn
! proves the effect. and the skirt below
| where the plaitS are fastened, is some
! times finely tucked, making very pref
| ty finish for the hem With all the
variety in plated skirts the plain one
with a double box plat in the back is
| most in evidence just at present.
| There seem to be three grades of cloth
gowns this season, and very plain and
/ severely tailor-made. for strictly morn
| ing wear, another with a dressy waist
] of some Of the pastel tints elaborately