The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1900-05-19

with a tiny cord of black satin below
which set ripple of lace.
The cost;of many of the new fabrics
precludes them from common wear
Take the new Liberty satin with its
woven-in figures of panne velvet. The
fabric is thin and beautiful, but it is
upward of $3.50 per yard and only half
4 yard wide. Then there is crepe satin,
new material, very lustrous with q
crinked surface. This come at tYifie
lower figure, but high enough to count
in making a costume.
A gown recently worn by Mrs. John
Jacob Astor at the exposition was Of
blue French foulard with lace flowers
appliqued on the silk. These lace flow
ers are very beautiful and are often
cut from priceless pieces of lace which
cost the French lace makers many a
year over the lace cushion Of the pro-
Vinces.
The mode or applique is interesting
as described to me by a cOuturiere.
The lace design is irst carefully spread
upon the foulard and each tiny point
along the edge is picked out and made
to show. When the lace Is nicely laid,
the couturiere takes a thread of finest
silk, of the exact color of the lace, and
carefully catches down the flower in
the middle; then she cautiously fastens
each petal in the same way and con-
cludeS with the stem and the leaves.
The edges Of the lace are not applQued
but the lace is run around the edge
with a very thing silk thread. The
SharpeSt contrasts are employed and
the lace applique becomes exceedingly
effective.
Mrs Astors bodice was built with
balloon front coming sharply at the
aa1 IN - lEa q ne line
over the bodice was worn lace yoke
trimmed with the narrowest bands of
black velvet.
SMART HATS.
The smartest hats are worn by. the
Americans who throng Paris just now.
With true American taste they regard
the hat as the keynote of the costume.
Many Of the beef-eater hats have
crowns of handkerchief, squares over
which are carried parasols TO match.
These are of the most brilliant ma
terialS with centerS Of vivid blues ana
reds, puppies and mauveS. Khaki, that
tawny color which the English are try
ing to make fashionable, affords the
groundwork for many a parasol, while
red and blue mingle decidedly, in the
borders, picked out with yellow and
green. These Roman borders are quite
distinct from the Scotch plaids and re-
semble nothing so much as the cos
tune of a native Italian woman out for
a gala day. The puppies, the yelloWs
and the strange bright greens ming
oddly, yet well.
Madame de Stael was never more de-
voted to her touch of black than is the
woman of the present day. Narrow
black velvet ribbons trim almost every
thing. They are used to stripe chailles,
to square feulards and to. figure RID
bons. A few yards of very narrow black
velvet. in the hands of a clever Paris
modiste, win transform yard OF pam
blue ribbon into a fancy ribbon oe,
sign for which you would have pald
your dollar and more
f One of the newest ways OF using
black silk is under the lace applique on
parasols. The small lace figures are
laid upon the parasol and underneath
them is fitted d very small piece Oh
black silk. ,
Many are the new and beautiful
street gowns all in white. One OF pa
mana white cloth was trimmed with
rose applications and green leaves. Inc
Duchess of York, who expects to be
about again in time for the queen
drawing rooms, has recently ordered a
cloth gown of alumine. which is little
lighter than the shade which we call
aluminium. with vest of primrose satln
and with yoke and sleeves Of the same;
Nothing handsomer could be imagined
than the brilliant rose satin in contrast
to the softness of the gray.
New gowns are not made of one ma
terial, two, three, four and even nVe
are used in one costume. Vest and
sleeves may be alike, but the stock, the
belt and the skirt r1ffles are different;
and none of these match either the skirt
or the tunic. Modistes declare that this
is a. very. economical arrangement, but
as all the goods are of the most eXtrav-
agant materials, and most of them are
the novelties of the season. the econo-
my of this step may we'll be ques-
toned.