davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-04-08

lants round his middle and ring in his
back through which the ribbon ran. The
other was small gold melon cbarmingly
enameled in green. She Haunted 1t in
my face as the latest thing from Paris, and
altogether l thought her the very picture
of SINAI tpess. She tells me, though. That
she is Urdone because her gown is not laid
in T sspendicular pleats all around and be-
cause her brand new automobile red petit
coat is not cut on the new lamp-shade pat
tern
We'll. I don't know but what her case
is touching admitted Maisie, Tor if you
are not pleased in the skirt now you do
feel hopelessly out Of il, and I've been
peeping into the inside of lots of new
skirts at my dressmaker's. and l see that
the Innings have what they call lamp shade
bottoms. That is from the knees down
the skirt is cut in a big bias fiounce and
set onto the upper part, that fits sheath
like TO within a few inches of the knees.
The bottom of the lining is distended with
numberless puffings and narrow pinked
frills of silk the old fashion of the dust
ruflie is revived. and everything, in short,
is done TO hold out the pleated cloth as
much as possible around the feet
Il am glad to be treasured on that
point by YOU said the hostess. after
counting her stitches carefully, for I've
promised to run cut to a country house
during the Easter holidays and that be-
hooves me to get a tidy little morning suit
for the house. / found just what l wanted
in periwinkle blue French poplin of a
weight as light grenadine and made
la princesse. but raying out from the waist
in a series of stitched down box pleats
that please me greatly. Squares are snip
ped out at the bottom OF the skirt between
every pleat to show what might be accept
ed as the foot of smart cream guipure
lace skirt. The waist is wholly of guipure
laid over a very deep cream silk lining and
three rows OF periwinkle blue velvet rib
bon are worked through the lace, over
the bust, and their ends meet in front OF
this lace body and tie in series Of cum
ming little bows. | must say l am rather
pleased with myself in that gown, and
with it in the morning l purpose to wear
a single piece of jewelry that will he a
ring of dull green gold having a rounded
band holding n beautifully cut Egyptian
beetle in gold"
oh / know I know enviously re-
sponded Maisie, deliberately selecting the
finest rose from the bowl and thrusting its
stem into the front of her waistcoat.
Have not l yearned for one of those rings
for at least two weeks and tried by every
device to persuade papa to buy one for me.
| shall never save money enough for a
truly handsome specimen nor for a decent
summer ball gown fan of which am seri-
ously in need. What I want is black net
affair with 4 huge white lace swan on it.
else one of the thinnest ebony sticks laced
together with one broad band OF bullion
brocade.'
Everything comes to her who waits and
persistently leases an elderly parent who
is perfectly weakminded about his only and
unworthy daughter" remarked the hostess
rather sternly, as she rose to greet mas
culine caller and the question of dress " as
monentarily thrust into the back ground.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-04-08
TRICKS OF THE TRADE.
One Man Asserts That Dressmakers
Deceive Their Customers.


There are people who tell and write of
the hardships of the dressmaker who has
to put up with the pettiness and general
disagreed bleness of Society customers,
but here is story of the other side. 1t is
told by man in the Chicago Chronicle"
Reading of these suits brought by
dressmakers against women to recover the
cost of gowns furnished reminds me of the
experiei ce that my wife is having with
her dressmaker. She bought a dress Pat
tern of eight and one-half yards, believe,
Of an unusual color and an exclusive de-
sign and sent it to the dressmaker TO have
it made, taking the precaution to measure
il before sending it out so as to see that
she got what she had paid for. In due
time the dress came back. made as she
wished it. and to all appearances satisIac-
tory. But when she put on the skirt it
was so scant-I believe they call it--that
she could not walk while wearing it. Now,
my wife likes to be able to move about
and she was sure she had bought cloth
enough to furnish a skirt in which she
could do so. So she measured the cloth as
it was made up and found that the woman
who cut the dress had deliberately appro-
it was just that amount shy of the guam
tity Of goods she had sent to the dress
maker. The dress went back to the shop
and my wife went back with it and de-
manded an explanation of the shortage
That, OF course. she did not get, but as the
cutter left the room when she entered it
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-04-08

clarity the varnish and give it the appear
ance of having been just applied. The
picture should be kept over the alcohol I'M
til all the spots have disappeared from the
surface and left it fresh and bright in
color.
The portrait should then be sponged
with tepld water and placed where it will
dry slowly. Never use any soap on an oil
painting 1t may remove the dirt, but the
chemicals in it are sure to do damage.
though the immediate result may be very
pleasing Many a good picture has been
ruined by soap and a scrubbing brush.
After picture has been cleaned it
should be vanished with picture varnish.
This should be applied with bristIe brush.
Pour little varnish on the picture and
spread 1t quickly, being careful not to go
over the same place twice. Sometimes the
varnish will creep" but by breathing on
the canvas and then following quickly
with a brush it can be made to adhere.
The picture should be left fat on table
until the varnish Is dry.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-04-08
TO CLEAN OLD PORTRAITS.
Use Tepid Water and n Raw Irish
Potato.


If people knew what an easy task it
is to clean portraits and oil paintings
they would never let them hang black
and colorless on their walls.
In nine cases out of ten, pictures paint
ed by the last generation OF artists,
owned by private collectors or individ-
uals, have almost entirely lost their
smoke.
Either Of the following methods can
be used by any careful person without
fear of injury to the picture. ard in
many cases will restore its surface to
its original freshness and brilliancy OF
color.
AS this is the simplest method, it is
well to try it first: Take the picture from
its frame and lay it on a large table. face
upward. Have bowl of tepid water and
a good-sized sponge in readiness.
Peel large white potato and cut ii In
half. Then. with the sponge and water.
go carefully over the entire surface of the
picture. In case it is badly cracked. as so
many old paintings are, let the sponge be
fairly dry: for. if the water should ooze
under the paint. it might crack more.
Now take the potato and with the smooth
wet.
Do not scrub hard. as it is apt to stretch
the canvas and necessitate its being taken
off the stretcher. The potato should move
in a circular motion which should be kept
up until the canvas is in a lather.
The dirt will soon begin to soften and
make the lather quite black. Keep lub-
bling until all the stains and spots disap-
pear. and then wash carefully and very
thoroughly with tepid water and the
sponge.
Unless the dirt has been vanished in, a
picture will usually readily respond to this
treatment. but in case it will not, the fol-
lowing method is almost sure to give the
desired result:
Double a heavy blanket twice and sprin-
kle it freely with alcohol; then turn the
picture, in its frame, face downward, over
it.
The fumes of the alcohol will soon begin
to rise and loosen the dirt; it will also
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-04-08

gold. silver. precious stones. and enamels
are bat materials which bring to life the
goldei pictures Of his fancy. He cosors
the metals, chips the stones. mixes the
cheap gems with the expensive and makes
herewith priceless works of art. Euameis
take on new hues under his skilled fingers,
while ivory and bone lend their dull colors
to heighten the effect OF his creations. He
coiors gold and carves the opal so marve-
lously. that a comb for a princess, made
OF dull grey horn, becomes a stunning
frame for graceful woman's figure, which
leans against the side holding a great
bunch of dropping pampas in her hand.
Woman, grass. and delicate foliage, in the
background are all miniature painting
done in gold of many colors, opal, ena-
mel and ivory
The imagination of the poet shows In
every piece of this mans work, drawing
the line thus between the genius and the
many talented designers who can initiate
and follow him successfully. Rough opal
is the material greatly used by Lalique
The golden sunset, the soft shine of the
moonlight. the feecy clouds beside in
Vulnerable flowers and living objects are
wonderfully pictured by the way in which
this artist uses this material. Diamonds.
pearls, emeralds, rubies, and turquoises
are but parts Of his design. and the way
in which he employs amethyst as other
jewelers. use enamel is productive OF
amazing results.
One sort CT ornament which Lalique par
ticularly likes. because its shape and POSI-
ticn On the dress allows his fancy great
play is intended for the front of a belt.
low corsage. or a neckband. A wonderful
dragon. shinging with color and belching
forth clouds Of opal, is a design for one OF
these. A second is a landscape showing
through the tree trunks of many colored
gold the opal of the sunset shining in
pool Of diamonds, and still another is a
spray of beautifully colored roses with
their leaves growing inside thread-like
frame of gold, as though they were grow
ing outside the window. few rings.
queer brooches. a rope of seed pearls fin-
ished by 4 tassel of rubies. a pendant or
two. all fanciful. poetic. unique and en-
chanting, are all Lalique has to show his
visitor. The court OF Russia is constantly
snatching up his finest pieces as they come
frcm his hands, and in England the great
families who are so proud Of their jewels
are constant visitors to his quiet apart
ments. He works very slowly, and except
for his yearly exhibit at the Salon. can
make no display. his works are nearly al
ways sold before they are finished.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-04-08
The New Grandmother.

'Grandmothers. as discussed at n wo-
mans club meeting the other day, devel-
oped the following: The old grand
mother" said one speaker, was quiet
old woman with a cap. who sat IN a Sc
Guided chimney corner. and who made her
self useful by rocking the cradle and by
carrying sweetmeats in her pocket for the
children. There is no chimney corner IN
which to sit nowadays: caps have gone out
OF fashion, and the new grandmother car
ries no sweetmeats in her pockets, for chill
dren are not allowed to eat candy. The
grandmother now belongs to a club and
takes an interest in the affairs OF the
world. As for rocking the baby in
cradei The very idea of such thing.
The baby lies on a bed and behaves itself
as clubwoman's baby should
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-04-08

while the youngest is just under twelve,
and well. / will be twenty-four my next
birthday. Which, by the way, is not very
far off.
81 am paid SO a week by each girl. so
you will see my salary is quite a snug one.
l never have to pay car fare nor other
expenses unless l go out alone. My clothes.
perhaps | should not mention, but l sell
dom have to buy 4 garment. Ali of my
girls are well-to-do, and when the season
comes to get new gowns, hats, and wraps
they always remember me. AS for Christ
mas and birthday presents, | am sure there
are few working women VINO fare as well
as l. My lines have certainly fallen in
pleasant places and am sure | could not
wish more agreeable occupation than the
one | CHANGED to simply drop into"
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-04-08

she had a very. well-founded suspicion as
to where that extra cloth had gone. The
dressmaker promised to make enquiries,
and II possible put the skirt in wearable
condition. few days later she sent word
to my wife that she could not match the
goods. could get no trace of any missing
material, and so she has had the dress
thrown back on her hands. with a demand
that she pay for the goods. Enquiry in
stituted by my wife among her friends re-
veals the fact that this sort of petty thiev-
cry Is common among dressmakers, and
that they generally get away with the
spoils all right. offering as an excuse short
measure on the part of the firm selling the
goods That sort OF excuse will not work
this time, and so the dressmaker has got
to make good to me, you bet, or there will
be trouble. 1t is my first experience with
this sort OF thing and 1t made me mad
clear through on my wife's account. as
she is unable to obtain another dress like
this one on which she had set her heart
and which thieving dressmaker ruined
for her."
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-04-08
FASHIONS GOLDSMITH.
He Creates Birds and Flowers of
Precious stones.

lie tFeutes anu "a
Precious stones.
The most priced and splendid jewels
that have found their way into the cas-
kets of pripcesses and millionaires of late
are from the studio of RIM Lalique, art
list. inventor, and worker in gems. ivory.
and the precious metals. Women of the
smart set" who had the good fortune to
see the wonderful specimens of this mans
work given Miss Julia Grant by the Prince
Cantacuzene at the time Of their wedding
enjoyed a new emotion as well as a reve-
lation in the art OF personal adornment.
This Benvenuto Cellini of today is in no
sense of the word a shopkeeper, and the
fashionable woman who takes her annual
trip to Paris this year to find show cases
filled with trinkets, made to initiate his
style, will at once observe what an i'm
mense influence his originality of method
has hid upon the trade. If she is deter
mined to see the interior OF Lalique's
studio and talk with a very interesting
man, she must seek out some one who
knows where he bides in the quiet side
street. and go armed with an introduction
to the grey house, which bears beside the
entrance door a small brass plate in
scribed Lalique-Joaillier.
A French artisan in a long blouse seeks
the master. while you look around the
room In the centre are two upright cases,
like those seen in museums. and by the
windows a few tables with glass tops. SINH
lar to those ladies affect for their drawing
room curios. There is no suspicion of the
shopkeeper in anything here. This is an
artists studio, and as Lalique's work ap-
peals only TO the elect, his guests admire
and choose their purchases after the man
ner of pictures. Here they can see his
methods and understand why it is that his
work has been admitted to the Salon among
the chef d'oeuvres of great painters and
sculptors.
Soon young man. who looks very like
Paul Bourget. comes in with a pleasant
greeting and listens modestly to your en-
thusiastic admiration of the spray of
fuchsias which nod like real flowers as your
footsteps jar the floor. and which look
quite as fragile as the real flower
Lalique began life as a painter. but his
genius was for another branch of art,
one much more rare than painting; there
fore he soon deserted the brush for his
present implements. He first did some de-
signing for a great American firm but
longing to execute his own bold and origi-
nal IDEAS and now with a host of follow
er5 tall Paris. in fact,) crowding on his
footsteps. he leads the goldsmiths Of the
world. Never before has jeweler looked
upon the met tails and gems as nothing but
colors for his palate, but to Lalique's eyes
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-04-08

lowing evening the programme was re-
peated at Bramall Hall for the house
servants, the grooms. coacnmen. and gar
deners the lodgekeepers, farmers, and
carpenters of the estate. and their fami-
lies, and at the close OF the reading. at
the request of the housekeeper. Mrs. Wig
gin and her sister sang series Of plauta-
ton melodies. which were greatly enjoy
ed by this rather unusual audience The
gifted entertainer was hidden to the stone
hoored kitchen afterward. where the
guests were partaking of bread and cheese
and beer. and where her health was SOL
emmy drunk and she received formal
speech of thanks made by the coachma.:
and seconded in parliamentary fashion BY
the head gardener.
From England Mrs. Wiggin went d.
rect to Edinburgh. where she says she
now feels almost more at homa than in
New York. profusion of flowers and
sheaves of invitations we're awaiting her.
and the next Ave weeks were spent In
lnncheons. dinners and teas.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-04-08

up the hostess, giving me a great many
valuable points for application to my own
needs and incidentally she wore a duck
of a gown. A street costume OF clay red
cloth and or the skirt three cloth Ilounces
above which were stitched down the
bands of red silk. Under her bolero coat
similarly garnished, a waist OF white silk
embroidered in little red berries peepei.
Her hat had pot crown OF Persian figUr-
ed panne with a holl OF black chiffon and
taffeta wound round *, breaking into big
rosettes here and there.
Il noticed that the heads Of her hat
pins were in the shape OF green Egyptian
beetles and her gloves were white and
fastened with big pearl buttons. She
carried red silk tightly rolled umbrella
with handle OF ebony, topped with
round ball of gold with her initials on it in
black enamel and instead of a tassel> or
Sosette. at the pSsnt where the rib ends
meet. she had black ribbon tied and to
either end of the ribbon tiny gold or
nament was fastened. One OF them was a
plump It'll. gold pig with belt of bril-
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-04-08
A PROFESSIONAL ESCORT.
She Attends Young Girls on Their
Walks Abroad.

Miss Anita Floyd hit upon a somewhat
novel method of earning her bread when
she became an escort for eight young girls.
81 began with FIVE" she said, then there
were three more added to my flock through
other mothers hearing of my services to
the first five of my charges.
''You see l was looking about for some
thing to do when a friend gave me let
ter OF introduction to lady who has the
reputation Of always being ready and will
ing to lend helping hand. / delivered my
letter and after the lady had looked me
over critically, she said:
90 Now, l wonder if you would be will
ing to come every day and accompany my
daughter and my niece to and from school
My maid who has been doing it since they
were quite young children has been called
to see her sick mother and there is no one
to take her place unless | send the house
maid which happens 10 be inconvenient
Would you care to try it until could find
something better for you?'
Il had no objections to anything that
was honest so | accepted and went the next
morning for my charges. | escorted them
to school and went back later on and at
tended them home. 1t was Wednesday at
ternoon and one OF the girls asked me tim
ldly II i would not ike 10 go 10 a matinee.
So l returned after luncheon and escorted
them to the theatre.
That was the beginning, and when the
maid returned three weeks later the two
girls and | had gone on so many pleasant
little jaunts together that they objected to
my leaving. Their mother then suggested
my taking the daughters OF three of her
friends who lived in the neighborhood, and
for one year l was always to be seen with
five girls Then some friends returned
from abroad and asked me TO take charge
of their two daughters. So the second
year / had seven girls, and in this my
third year my flock has increased to eight
4 escort my charges 10 and from school,
and every afternoon, excepting Sundays,
take them out for three hours. Sometimes
We go to the theatres, sometimes for a
walk in the park or on the avenue. Then
again We make an expedition in the coun-
try or go for little trips on some of the
many boats which go back and forth 10 the
various points of interest around New
York city. OF course We go TO the museum
anu the various picture and flower shows
Turing the season. In short, / see every
thing that is desirable and without its
costing me cent. AS for the company,
we'll. l really wouldn't wish for pleasanter
companions than my girls 1t is true
there is a great difference in our age, for
the eldest Of my flock is not yet sixteen,
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-01-10

proclamation sent to General Otis in De-
cember, 1898. but which General Otis sent
back, with the statement that its claim Of
sovereignty in the United States was call
culated to cause an immediate outbreak OF
hostilities. and he quoted from the procla-
nation published in the Philippines by Gen.
eral Otis, saying: Il am also convinced
that IL is the intention of the Government
of the United States to seek the establish
ment Of most liberal government in the
Philippines" 1t happened. however. that
by mistake a copy Of the Presidents ae-
tual proclamation fell into the hands OF
Aguinaldo. and that, Mr. Hoar said, pro-
yoked hostiIities.
There has not been a time from the be-
ginning to this hour when that assurance
OF General Otis. given on the 1st of jan
uary. 1899. that they should be indepen-
dent, would not. II given by the President,
have prevented this outbreak
Referring to Mr.. Bevsrfdges statement
that the Filipino people were at heart
favorable TO the Americans, but that they
blndly. and because Of their devotion to
custom, followed this leader. Aguinaldo.
Mr.. Hoar caused a laugh by appealing to
Senators Hanna and Plat to give testi-
mony that the conditions are much the
same at home. and suggested that Mr..
Quay might find comfort in the suggestion.
At the close of his remarks Mr. Hoar
consent Of the Senate TO print
as part OF his speech, and also as a Sem
ate document. the reports from which he
had quoted, as well as certain magazine
articles bearing on the point of the Fill
pinos' right TO establish their indepen-
dence and give government
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-01-10
it as lacking in argument or

characterized it as lacking in argument or
common sense
He then set up the claim that the Filipino
people had gained their independence and
that ii was a base thing for the United
States, in its power. to strike from them
tie power to make themselves free. Mr..
Hoar then read from the reports Of Otis
and Dewey to prove his claim that indie
pendence had been gained by the FilpinOs.
and they had demonstrated their fitness for
lf-goyernment months before the ques-
tion was debated In the United States Sen
a.e during the last session. Senator Hoar
explained TO the Senate that he did not in
tend 10 make n speech at this time; he
only desired to set against the glittering
generalities of the young Indiana Senator
the official records signed by Otis, Dewey
and other officers OF the United States GO
ing TO show that the Filipinos are a people
capable Of self government. and that they
we're entitled TO their independence and the
blessings OF a free government at the time
the Spaniards were driven from the Islands.
Otis declaration OF January |, 1899, guar
anteeing to the Filipinos the rights OF ma
lions. was read and sarcastically compared
with the fact that later they were sold
like flock OF sheep for $40 600. 0O0.
Senator Hoar referred to General Otis re-
ports showing that the Filipinos had an
army Of 10000. and that. in the Island OF
Luzon, there were courts, municipal gov
ernments peace, order, schools, and
with the Spanish prisoners kindly
treated And 1t was that condition OF
things that 1t was proposed TO crush out
under the American flag. And that you
call glory. Mr. Hoar exclaimed, with Bit
ter sarcasm.
Mr.. Hoar referred to the Presidents