The citizen. (Frederick City, Md.) 1895-1923, 1900-11-16
A DISH OF PORPOISE,
WHOLESOME AND VERY SAVORY
WHEN PROPERLY COOKED.

When One of These Sea Swine Ia
Landed In New York City, the
Event Brings Joy to the Hearts nj
the Population OF Little Itniy."
That playful mammal the porpofsc.
which gives so much joy to children on
steamers, is not hunted anywhere in
the vicinity of New York. But occa-
sionally one of the fisher boats that
bring their fares of fish to the great
market ut the foot of Fulton street on
the East river finds in Il net drowned
porpoisc. The creature swan into tho
net and was not able to get out. Being
mammal or warm blooded animal. it
Is compelled to rise for the purpose of
breathing, which it does through its
blowholc just behind the neck. But
when entangled in a net it is unable TO
rise to the surface and is drowned in
its own element.
The huge carcaSc. often weighing
from POO to 400 pounds. is dressed by
the fishermen and put into the tank
and brought to the market. where it is
kept in the rcfrigcrating tank until Fri
day morning, when it is sold to Italians
by auction. The successful bidder al
ways subdivdcS his fish. He keeps
half for himself, and the rest is shared
out among truck pcddlcrs of Mulberry
street where the Italians congrcgatc.
Then there is joy in Little Italy. The
news is spread all over the colony. wo-
men going to their friends to tell the
tidingS. Very early in the morning
crowd gathers round the store of the
padronc. who has the half porpoiSc dis
played in all its hugcncSs upon Il slab
of wood Fins, head, tail and insidcs
had been removed by the fishing folk,
ana there IS nothi save the solid
meat and the great b bone. The col
or is deep red. cXccl belly strcaks.
which are lighter anCk strcakcd with
fat and resemble polb ary closely in
deed. This is the med gof the name.
for porpoiSc is Il corn on of the old
London Latin. porc-p In Roman
Latin this would ha been porous
piscis. The men of the nth call these
animals sea swine, and his is prcscrv-
ed in the French marSo, 4. which they
undoubtedly learned Fl IN the Nor
mans
The Italian padronc begins business
about o'clock in the morning. His
price is 4 cents a pound for all quaint
ties, large or small His scales are
above his head His customers sur
round him in an anxious ring, each
provided with wrapping paper His
watchful and alf'rtionate family take
the money ana bring from time to time
a freshly Sharpcncd knife The pa
dronc first cuts off Il chunk of about 10
pounds ana then proceeds gapidly 10
suhdividr it according to the wants Of
the buyers Slice after slice of the deep
flesh falls before his knife and passes
into the paper of the customers. The
belly parts are put on one side; they
are not for sale, having been ordered
in advance by the restaurants of the
quarter
Italian cooking is so excellent, IS
Hecially as regards fish. that amateurs
of good living constantly visit them
undetcrred by their appearance, which
is rather squalid, though some are
neatness itself. Here the porpoise is
SO a as horse mackcrel for some reason
or other not on the surface and is
served with various sauces of the most
rnlatable character
The women Of the colony fry it
IICnpllN. in al al
what more than offsets any fshy flavor
that may exist. which is doubtful For
while an ancient and fishlikc smell
most undoubtedly does salute the nos
trils in front of fish stores in this quar-
ter there is no odor arising from the
immense mass of flesh ut which the
padrone tolls. In fact, there can be
no doubt that the meat of the porpoise
is flesh and not fish. And it may be
added that this meat is wholesome and
very savory when properly cooked
The porpoise is not subject to the
many diseases to which land swine are
liable, and that the flesh is savory is
certain from the affection the Italians
have for it. Even the SicilianS admit
cheerfully that it is as good as the
swordtiSh outlet, which is the great
delicacy of Messina. And Italians
from other parts believe it to be in
finitely better. Porpoise was indeed
once Il royal dainty and was served
at all state banquets. Sometimes it
was boiled in vinegar or thin white
wine-about the same thing-and some
times great slices were covered with
paste and bake and eaten with
sauce of Drunes md Spicp-Npw York