New-York tribune., 1900-12-30
LIFE IN AN OASIS.
BRIGHT SKIES AND PURE. DRY SAHARA
AIR IN BISKRA-OPERETTAS AND
OTHER ADJUSTMENTS.
From The Pail Mall Gazette.


days, the through ticket costing little f12.
From Marseilles the comfortable steamers of the
Transatlantique Company leave once a week
direct for Philippeville, and once weekly via
Bona, the direct crossing taking thirty hours.
From Phllippeville Biskra is reached by rail in
q day. Most travellers will prefer to break their
Journey ut Constantine, that inland Gibraltar.
whose splendid situation, enthrOned it's iso-
lated plateau of rock is unique in the world.
Interesting rs it is, however, it unfortunately
lacks good hotel accommodation, an accusation
which cannot be urged against Biskra, which
possesses at least one first class hotel in the
Royal and several others, the Victoria the
Oasis, the Dcs Zibans etc, clean comfortable
and moderate enough 10 suit every ones means.
The Royal is the most modern. and has a large
inner court laid out as garden. an extensive
fiat roof, and minaret. whence the gorgeous
desert sunsets can be viewed TO perfection, and
a splendid view from the terrace eastward, over
the bed OF the river, the Oued-BiSkra, to the
Sahara and the picturesque range Of hills, the
Djcbel-MCtiili, on the horizon. The Oar DAFT
Hotel, attached TO tho Casino. has an excellent
restaurant and cafe, the prices at all these hotels
ranging from Il 70 1G francs day. At Biskra
II rarely rains. though heavy tropical showers
are not unknown, bright and blue sky
the ruIe there Is no damp, and the pure. dry
air of the Sahara is of incalculable benefit to
seekers after 2eath; yet il has by no means the
appearance of resort of invalids only the little
town wears gay French air, has excellent
shops and baZaars public gardens. in which
roses, hcliotrope, hibiscus and bOugainvilea vie
in profusion and coloring; a highly Oriental
looking marie, 4 French fort, garrison and
military cub, all pictIresquely contrasting with
the Arab life which TO unaccustOmed northern
eyes is the great and salient novelty of the place.
Very quaint and interesting the native
streets. the market square with its hudded
groups Of white robcd arabs, the languid pro-
ceSsiOns of laden and weary camelS. the tunnel
shaped avenues of mimOsa, and the villages
scattered about the oasis, screened and over
hung 10y countless waving date palms, not less
countless to the enchanted traveller because his
guide, with frigid accuracy informs him that
the oasis contains not less than 16O.OOO of these
seIf-same palm trees In this indOlent land
fhara iS H-af F,la aUfN for he fO
mornings can be pleasantly occupied by bathing
at the Hammam-es-S Salahin, six kilometres out
in the desert, where there is a miniature bathing
establishment built over the springs, which have
a natural heat of 112 Fahrenheit. AS this heat
is. however, extremely enervating to the bather.
il is advisable to order the bath beforehand and
To allow IL time to- cool to a reasonable tempera-
ture. The tramway which runs to the baths
passes first under palms and mimOsa through
the exquisite oasis of Beni-A1Ora. out into the
desert, taking about three-quarters of an hour.
In the afternoon there are excursions. driving
riding, on horses or camels, TO the environs ana
to the neehbOring Oases, and, after dinner, con-
certS, operettas, petits chevaux, and baccarat
at the Casino, or visits to the numerous Moorish
cafes in the town. where may be seen the native
girls dancing their strangely monotOnOus Arab
dances to the no less monOtOnOus accOmpani-
ment of Arab music, stTident tOm-tOms and ear
piercing pipes, intended only, one is told. as an
accompaniment to the distracted thoughts Of the
listener, while he sips the Sweetened coffee and
smokes innumerable cigarettes. The rather
squad hadnts of the hashish smokers may also
be visited; excellent guides are to be found at
the hotels, all of whom speak French, and some
little English. Travellers who visit BiSkra.
unless for health usually stay a day or two
only; but il is really worth longer visit.
fortnight certainly can be pleasantly passed
there. in the course of which the expedition by
diligence to the important oasis and city OF
Pugart be undertaken. There is also fairly
good shooting within easy reach; chamOis and
the mOuflOn. which are really Barbary sheep.
abound between Biskra and El Kantara, and for
these expeditions the services of one OF the
numerous trustworthy guides can be requisi-
toned. \ feature of BiSkra is the curious villa
OF Count LandOn. which he kindly allows to be
shown to visitors during the afternoon. The
various rooms are under roof. but
isolated and distributed in different parts of the
splendid tropical gardens. in which are sue
cessfully acclimatiZed maIy rare fruit trees.
shrubs and other plants. Very charmingly do
the hours slip away in these enchanted gardens,
remote from the noises Of the town. remote
from the world Screened from the monday
by thickest tropical yegetation one can
repOse in the heat of the day in the Arab salon
where daylight filters in sparingly through
hanging masses of vivid bougaiI villeas, stroll
later through groves of feathery bamboo. and
orange gardens golden with fruit and heavy
with the vouptuOus scent of blossom, and, final
ly, watch from the river terrace the scarlet
glory of the sinking sun. most splendid of
natures many splendid pageantS, most glorious
of Gods many glorious gifts transfiguring in
blaze OF rose cOlOred fire the gray siIhOuetted
outline of the distant .Djebel-M l-Met,ili and touch
Sahara and the island GASES of Lalia and
Filiash.
This same sunset hour is of the daily
charms of life in the desert, and the northern
traveller must stand spelbOund before such a
riot of southern cOlOrinS. should like TO say