davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-02-11

! whole skirt is mounted on lining of pas
tel green taffeta. and is finished on the
inside of the hem with a balayeise of the
same silk.
The bodice shows the same character
istics as the skirt. 1t is lined with a
tight foundation of pastel green taffeia,
and the yoke is intersected by stitched
seams like those on the skirt and closes
invisibly down the front. The lower part
of the bodice is made Of grey guipure,
which is stretched without seams over the
back and front. but is shaped and stitched
into the underarm cores of the silk lining
1t closes invisibly under the left arm. and
is finished over the bust and at the back
by an 0yerlaid band OF rich guipure edging
embell.shed by tracery Of silver thread
and small silver spangles. The high shap-
ed collar faced with pastel green silk
matches this band as do the pointed cuffs
appliqued on the long tight sleeves of pas
tel green satin cloth.
To the uninitiated 1t might appear that
the pleated and tucked skirts now so uni
versally worn would revolutionize the
present style OF tightness, but closer OBJ
servation will prove that the garment is
adjusted TO the figure closer thar ever by
means OF those tucks and pleats which are
finely stitched and serve principally as or
naments. the vertical lines Of which are
designed TO elongate the figure and effect
slenderness. The whole Idea OF the present
style is 10 have the skirt as smooth fitting
as possible clinging 10 the lines OF the
figure until little or nothing is left be-
tween the outer garment and the person
itself. The waists are as elaborate as the
designer can make them, Ibut never what
might he called draped, never laid in folds,
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-02-11

CALLING OF prostitution in the garrison
towns Of Great Britain and iA,,ia, and the
recent attempts to re-establisii them, do
not know of her giving particle of as
sistance to the women in their heroic strug
giles with Parliament although it never was
more needed.
Through the entire fight for woman
suffrage, opened by John Stuart Mill in
1866 carried forward by Jacob Bright and
continued by distinguished men and women
down to the present day, the Queen has
never thrown her influence on their side
never shown by look or sign that she IA
vored larger liberty for women. The
same is true in regard TO the efforts to OBJ
tain property rights for married women.
The Queen has appeared oblivious when a
word from her might have turned the
scales Grant that she may lot have the
legal power 10 determine what shall be the
laws and customs of England, nevertheless
her influence in favor OF great moral and
social movements has weight second only
TO absolute authority.
The difficulty with the Queen all the
way Throughout horn or tie other of the
dilemma we must accept-has been either
that she felt popular sentiment would not
sustain her, or else she has lacked the
philosophy TO discern the relation between
political power in the hands Of women and
the improved conditions OF society which
she herself has labored sixty years to ad-
vance"
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-02-11
Visiting Card Code.

A lady's social visiting is regulated by
custom as by a code. There must be a
call for a call. and a card for card, de-
clares the Ladies' Home Journal
At the first call of the season a married
woman leaves, with her own. two Of her
husbands cards, for the lady and master
of the house, and three Of her sons, il
there be young ladies in the family. IL
her friend be at home she places them on
the hall table sending her own by SER
want AT subsequent calls she need noe
leave her husbands card. unless he has
received an invitation. and she may allow
her sons and daughters to assume their
own obligations.
A change Of residence should be an
nounced early in the season by sending
cards TO all ones acquaintances, with the
new address and reception day.
To devote one afternoon each week to-
ones friends is a near approach TO the
social ideal. Gathered about the dainty
tea table we make new friendships and
strengthen old ones But life in cities Is
too full and many have reduced these
sociable occasions to four days in one
month. sometimes to two or to one all-e'a-
bracing function.
N a lady has a reception day her friends
should try to call at that time. She need
not receive chance callers on any other
dsv-sbe could never be sure of an I'M
inferrupted hour at home the serFdnt
sbould be previously instructed TO give tne
same message 10 all Corners: Mrs. Homer
is engaged today. and is sorry not to No
able to see anyone" at which none eouid
take offence.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-02-11

as possible, In the direction of the backs
OF the hands. then in the original position.
then downwards as far as possible. For
the sideways movement bend alternately
toward the thumb side and the little finger
side Continue this swinging OF the hands
upward. downward. and sideways for some
minutes.
Hand rotation next follows. In this the
arms are held as for the bending and
stretching exercises. With even and con-
slant movement, the hand performs all
the previous motions; that is. from the
bending position upward into the bending
position sideway. downward. sideway in
the opposite direction, and so on first the
fingers are held together and then ex-
tended.
Finger bending and stretching comes
next. With arms extended the fingers are
slowly but vigorously bent enough to form
a fist. and are then again opened forcibly.
For finger spreading hold the tips OF the
fingers apart, with arms extended as be
fore, and perfectly straight. After the
spread the extended fingers are brought
together again. or are tightly cienched.
this latter action increasing the effect or
the exercise. Both the muscles OF the
hand and of the forearm are exercised by
these movements, and after due time, If
there is not noticeable gain in the sup
pleness of the wrist. contour OF the arm,
and shapeliness OF the hand. there Is only
one reason for 1t: you are looking for re-
suits little too soon. Persevere and still
perseyere, bordering upon such wise saws
as Rome was not built in a day,
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-02-11

There is reaction setting in against
having day" at home. 1t is still in
vogue in American society especially
among people who are DESTROYS Of being
considered more or less fashionable-the
people who wish to be more and are gen.
orally less. Unless remarks 'L'Art de la
Mode" one has a large visiting list one
who has day in quite likely to sit in
solitary state one-half her days, and be-
moan the fact that she was not free 10 10
here and there where she had been in
vited for that particular occasion. When
her special day" comes around very likely
there is solitary caller. and the atmos-
phere may be friendly. but is apt to be
constrained. and is more often simply
stupid. Many aristocratic English women
have two addresses on their visiting cards
one the town house and the other the
country seat, and no day"
A more uniformly agreeable custom than
being at home on a given Afternoon. when
one is not certain to have a number of
callers. is to have tea at 1870 every after
noon when one is at home for ones self
and whoever may be at home OF the family
Then If a caller drops in the atmosphere
is Unexpectedly pleasant and social. There
should be no fuss or feathers about the
regular afternoon tea. The service should
be dainty, and beside the tea there should
be very thin slices OF bread, buttered, and
nothing else
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-02-11

PARIS. Jan. 31.-The first styles OF the
early spring show no abatement in the use
of lace, and though the moderate prices at
which many beautiful and effective ma
chine made laces can be obtained, their
popularity does not seem TO prevent the ex-
elusive couturieres and milliners from ia
voring them. Charming effects are obtained
by the combinations of the heavier grades
of iaces with some of the novel devices of
the season. One model by Robert serves as
it can be recognized several old friends in
artistic new forms. There is the satin
faced cloth, for instance. which mas sur
vived several seasons as its equal in soft
ness, elegant finish and draping qualities
has not yet been equaled for stree wear.
The graceful apron yoke of the skirt
which with its elongated and pointed front
always adds height to the figure, is formed
OF pastel green satin-faced cloth, soft
greyish green shade which will find much
favor this spring. The yoke is adjusted
closely to the figure by means of numerous
narrow cores, the seams of which are or
namented with rows Of pastel green stitch
ings. Additional fullness at the back is
supplied by single box plat stitched
tightly above but opening gracefully below
the yoke. A serpentine hounce of greyish
euipure of a shade which is chosen care
fully TO harmonic with the color OF the
cloth forms flare, which. while made very
long, shows no sweep at the back. The
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-02-11

her always brings my father back 20 me.
She was crowned in 1887, and. as he be-
| lieved strongly in equal rights for women,
| II was day of great rejoicing for him.
Always after that whenever mother pre-
pared any specially nice dish for the table
he would say. 1t is good enough for the
| Queen If he said 1t once, he said IL a
Thousand times. We all rejoiced in her
because she was woman. The advanced
people looked upon her coronation as a
great thing for womanhood. In the early
days everybody who made a speech for
larger freedom for women-Pbillips Gar
rison, Beecher, all Of ihem-would say,
If woman can sit on the throne Of Eng
land. surely she can east vote in the
United States"
I'VE scarcely can realize what tremen.
dous effect the approval or disapproval OF
the royal family is in England. II is al
most supreme. in this country il does not
matter so much what The President thinks
on great questions. If We do not like him
We can chip him out at the end of four
years; but there royalty pronounces the
fat, and only death brings change of
rulers The Queens recognition of the
council shows. as nothing else could have
done. how high the tide has risen in the
movement of equal rights for women.
mo better illustration of this can be
given than the changed tone of the London
press on the day following the Queens
reception Of the international council. The
Times the paper regarded as nearest to
the throne had shown scant courtesy TO the
council, giving very little space and moth
ing worthy the name of an adequate report
Of a single session; but the next morning
after we were at Windsor ii blossomed out
with conspicuous headlines and words OF
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-02-11

! and never departing from a severe and
rather smooth-ftting tendency Even Wien
outer jackets are used the looseness is en-
tirely in front.
Buttons and buckles show a decided de-
cline, as it is the fad Of the moment to
conceal the fastening OF ones gown and
thereby mystify the casual observer as to
how woman gets into her clothes. Folds
or soft pufiiugs are sometimes used as
modes Of coDcealment, and the favorite
fashion of pleats and tucks on the skirt
afford opportunities OF hiding placquets,
and pockets leave no excuse for the hide
GUS gaping of the former.
AS the season advances, spring millin-
cry becomes the sine qua non OF every
woman who aspires to be well dressed.
The advance guards Of Easter bonuets
show that Fashion vacillates between
large brimmed headgear and small toques
Diaphanous fabrics again enter largely
into the composition of spring millinery
and vie with the rice straws and horsehair
be much in evidence.
A graceful toque created by Marescot for
Nine. Rejane commands our attention. The
brim is made of corded grey satin, and the
crown is covered with folds OF grey tulle
spangled with silver and terminating with
a high bow cluster OF chrysanthemums
rests on the hair.
Another hat by Lauvin is especially
adapted for seashore or country wear. 1t
is of yellow leghorn. the broad fiat brim
of which is turned up in front. The crown
Is draped with mauve tulle ard trimmed
with a mass of lilacs and foliage which
droops over the turned-up brim.
FELIX FOURNERY.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-02-11
GIRL STUDENTS AT OXFORD.
How Women Are Taught in the Ia
nous JnfyersIty.


The proportion of women students 70
5000. and 1t has been only about score
| Of years since women were admitted, while
| men have had the advantages Of the uni
versity for centuries.
All the teaching of the women Is under
the Association for the Education of Wom-
\ en- in Oxford. There are no class or lee
| ture rooms, and no teaching except private
tutoring In the halls--that is, Lady MaIga-
ret Hall. Somerville College. st. Hugh's
| Hail. etc The students take UP courses
arranged by the association. The lectures
by members OF the university or women
VINO lecture for the association-are given
In queer old building. once a dissenting
chapel. Girls who do not reside In tie
hails board around in places recommended
Oy the association, and are called home
students.
One term in one of these boarding places.
says writer In the New York Herald"
there was an English SCHOOLGIRL preparing
Tor college entrance examinations. a bright
young French woman studying for a supe-
rior examination in her own land on Eng
lish literature, and a little French girl wi O
had been sent over to learnt the language
to help her in trade. Then there was a
llltu EDkliSH woman, VINO
had come from London TO open an ele-
mentary school FOR the daughters OF gen.
tlemen," and her friend who had once been
her pupil. who gave textbook sort of lee
lures for the association, and who in vir-
tue Of being cousin TO an earl, was sup
posed to take rank in the household
There were two American girls gradu-
ated the previous summer from college
at home, who were working for certifi-
cate given to such students by the associ-
alton at Oxford. They went off during the
two vacations OF six weeks each on edu-
cational excursions. At Christmas they
went to Paris. and at Easter they made
their way to Germany. However much
French or German they may have picked
up they came back with evident relief and
pleasure.
There was one American who was strug-
Cling with logic and Latin, and trying
meantime to feel cosmopolitan about GER
tain small local eccentricities. Shaking
hands was one which she did not enjoy at
any time, and against which she finally
rebelled.
During the dean of Barnard's student
days in Cambridge a party of which she
was member went over to visit Oxford.
While there having tea in Fellows rooms
some one started the old and unfortunate
discussion of the comparative merits OF the
two places.
Why" said an Oxford man, "the
superior advantages of Oxford are well
known Baedeker advises small trips of a
day or two to Cambridge. but for oxford
he says one must have week and should
have ten days or more
There was pause. Then a member of
the Cambridge party said, quietly:
ut Is pity that recent important
endowment in Cambridge has not been
used to substitute Baedeker.'
In what beautiful material world the !
Oxford girl student lives, To keep out |
in the open air is an important part of |
the creed impressed upon her. j am sure |
she feels the spell OF the grey old ivy
clad walls, and the meaning OF the pur-
pose that made and has kept them what !
they are.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-02-11

a genuine, personal devotion. and look
ing TO the Queen as the great caretaker of
her subjects.
with all these essentially feminine
qualities, nevertheless history shows that
she is one of the keenest students OF poll
tics, and that when she signs or with
holds her signature from any official docu-
ment, her decision displays clear discrimi-
nation and rigid conscientiousness. John
Bright said he never had an interview
with the Queen that he did not receive
more than he gave, and such, / think,
would be the testimony of all the states
men during her reign. For one woman TO
have lived through the most momentous
period In history, kept informed on every
step Of its progress, and at the same time
discharged all the duties of woman
duties such as never could have devolved
upon a King-certainly shows ability OF
the highest order.
Il am compelled to say, however, that in
her long reign | can recall nothing she has
done to advance the status of women.
However much / appreciate her splendid
record. ] cannot but remember that in all
matters connected with women she has
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-02-11
To BenutIfy the Hand.

To increase the strength. symmetry. and
incidentally the beauty of the hand, de-
vote ten minutes before you go to bed 10
muscle bending and stretching. These ex-
ercises can be taken by my lady at her
ease, seated in her most luxurious chair
before her fire Of blazing logs.
Extend both arms at right angles to
the body, the backs of the hands turned
upward In this position. the hand is to
be bent upward, downward, and sideways s.
With fingers first together and then e.-
tended and without moving the arm. bend
the hands upward, from the wrist. as far
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-02-11

In Japan little girl nine years Of age
wears her hair tied up in red scarf bound
round the back of her head. The brow is
left bare. except for couple OF locks, one
on each side When she has arrived at
manageable age the fact is signaled by
her combing her hair forward and doing 1t
up In the shape OF a fan or a butterfly and
adjoining 1t with silver cord and various
colors. a widow who desires to marry
again signifies her wishes by putting a
tortoise shell comb horizontally at the
back OF her head and twisting her hair
round il. An inconsolable widow eurls her
hair and wears no adornment Of any sort.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-02-11
A Win Old Beau.

1t was an antiquated, we'll bred. but ex-
cessiyely vain old beau, who cherished the
Illusion that in spite of rheumatic knees
and a stiff back. his figure was still quite
irresistible. She was smart. giriish, fresh
as rose. and regarded any man over forty
years OF age in the light OF a grandfather.
IL was frst-class street-car comedy.
Sweet seventeen squeezed herself in cor
ner to give the dear old gentleman seat.
He barred his bald head, thanked her with
Chesterfeldian courtesy, and like the addle
pated old bachelor he was, rode twenty
blocks swinging on strap. suffering tor
ture from a pair OF rickety legs, but smil-
ing sweetly all the while under the delu
sion that seventeen would surely recognize
Apollo when she saw him.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-02-11
The Hr5tlaI Veil.

Instead of a coronet of tulle, a new ar
rangement is made for that portion of the
long veil which rests directly upon the
head. 1t is neither a twist nor a rosette.
but an application Of two fans" of pleat-
ed tulle. The fans serve as uprights in
stead OF an aigret. They are not very
tall. but are disposed eas Gu each side of
a little spray OF orange blossoms TO which
the conventional maiden elings. The fans
must not be stiff. Behind them the veil
of cloudy ts!is isscends in graceful profu-
sion.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-02-11

been very conservative, never wholly yield
ing her assent to any Innovation until ii
was already practically established. have
no recollection of her ever giving her in
Huence for any improvement in the laws
relating to women. Take, for instance, the
three great movements-the abolition of
the contagious diseases acts. the obtaining
OF property rights for wives, and OF suf-
frage for widows and spinsters.- In the
great battle to abolish the existing con-
,pgious diseases acts, which meant the le-
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-02-11
THE new WATFHAU SKIRT
What One Guest Will Wear at the
Pauncefote Wedding.

Lirht-Toncd Cloths Trimmed With
White Are Going 10 He at the Very
Head of Spring StyIes-Tucking il
Very Modish-Bolero Jackets Are
Again in Favor-Lentcn Fashions.
The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1900-05-21
HELD IN $4,000.
Luther Williams Charged With
Assault With Intent TO Kill
on Edwin (. SouthwIck.

The arrest OF Luther Williams, at
Woonsocket, OH charge of assault
with dangerous weapon, with intent
TO kill, upon Edwin H. Southwick of
North Smithfield. created great sem
sation I'm that city when 1t became gem
orally known. Clerk Arnold required
bail in the sum of 5000, on account OF
the gravity OF the charge and the pris-
oner was released yesterday afternoon,
Mrs. Rufus o. Williams. his brothers
wife furnishing the bond. Williams
continued yesterday 10 assert that he
was not a party 10 the shooting and
claimed that he could conclusively
prove that he was at work in Cam
bridgeport, Mass, when the deed was
committed. He claims that he was on
duty until 8 o'clock Sunday and report
ed for work again at o'clock Monday
morning.
on the other hand, Constable Cook
and Policeman sutton. who were in
strumental in causing his arrest. claim
that besides the identification by South
work they have other evidence which
will be presented at th proper moment.
The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1900-05-21
the WILBUR OPERA COMPANY.

The German groceryman and The Wise
Guy thus discuss the Wilbur Opera Co.:
dot Annie Laughlin init the Wilbur
Opera Gombany moost haf made great
he arranged the doughnuts I'm the case.
Some one drew a big bogay of flowers
al her last night
'-'rhe news wouldn't come In the shape
of an extra edition 10 me, replied the
Wise Guy, poking his umbrella In q cake
of money. 'if I learned that YOU did II
yourself You've been acting like one OF
those May-I- See You-Home boys for the
last week. and unless my peeps have lost
their cunning, that's a very Willie tie
you're sporting. Sure, she's made q
mash, she makes 'em all over. She's got
those other gay soubrettes beai TO pulp.
She's another one OF your Uncle Wilbur S
find tiuess he goes around the country
with shades over his lamps. | suppose
maybe he \ riding around In closed car
riage overlooking the long shots. Why,
say, he'll give any of em that's fair step
pers breeze. and II they amt II, back TO
the milk wagon I'm a minute. When there =
any good things fixed up. you'll notice
that guy always has bet down on EN-.
And YOU may have observed that he
don't go around asking for any benefits.
Say, he can give most of these managers
the fifteen ball and beat EN- without
chalking up. one of these days this An
ma Laughlin will be cutting out new rec
ords just like all the others that have
turned out of his stable. Just stow that
tip away ON ice where you can keep it,"
And the Wise Guy put an assortment OF
nuts I'm his pocket and disappeared among
the crowd.
pne famous Wilburs open their summer
season at the Providence opera house
Tuesday. MAY 20, presenting "a repertoire
OF comic operas interspersed with vaude-
Vile Interruptions. living pictures, etc.