New-York tribune., 1900-07-01
IEN-TSIN AND CHE-FOO.
TWO CHINESE CITIES IN WHICH THE
WESTERN WORLD HAS GREAT
PRESENT INTEREST
Tien-Tstn. Nav 10.

Tien-Tsin May 16.
There are two ways Of getting from Japan to
Peking; one is by way Of the Corean peninsula.
the other by way Of Shanghai Both lines start
from Nagasaki. and both stop at the Chinese
| city Of Che-Foo. the Chinese route taking in
Wei-Hai-Wei in addition-this latter being but
a few hours south Of Che-Foo. The steamers
which run along the coast Of Corea cross over
from Chemulpo the port OF Seoul. 10 the Chinese
coast, and pass by the entrance TO the harbor
OF Wei-Hai-Wei, where several British gunboats
are lying
Che-Foo, like all the treaty ports Of Japan and
China, is divided into two parts. There are the
native city and the part which has been select
ed by the foreigners for their business or dwell
ings. The consuIates are all on a high bluff
which projects from the city and half forms the
harbor which shelters a large feet Of junks and
coast liners. while some men-of-war lie further
out. A long sandy beach lies to the left Of the
bluff, and this are built some large hotels;
for it is the great seaside summer resort for for
eigners living in the hotter parts Of China and
Corea. Surf bathing begins in May and lasts
until the fall. and there is always a cool sea
breeze, while the surrounding country inland
may be parched with the heat In addition to
the hotels there IRE large boarding schools for
girls and boys. the children Of missionaries in
the East. This part of Che-Foo is very beauti-
Chinese Che-Foo the native city. might we'll
stand for a Western mans ideal OF Hades,
though even Dante's imagination would here
have failed unless he had had a glimpse of GER
tain features of rental life.
A CHOICE COLLECTION OF SMELLS.
To begin with. the city is a revelation in
smells Each street-or alley-has different
one, and each house ernits an odor peculiar to
itself The streets are only a few feet wide, and
crowded with a squabbling, jabbering jostling
throng of Chinese. Beggars in rags and filth too
awful TO describe cringe and whine about the
foreigner who enters this bedlam, and follow
him until paid go away else kicked
aside; nothing between the two answers. In
the tiny stores on either side of the way the
storekeepers smoke their pipes over their coun-
ters or their reckoning board-a device used
everywhere in Japan, Corea and China-and
haggIe with customers. Coolies with poles over
their shoulders TO which are attached heavy
burdens at either end, swing along at dog trot,
crying to every one to get out Of the way. Chair
men. bearing a foreigner in a bamboo chair or
a rich Chinese in a palanquin, oDstruct the wav.
Lifting their poles upon their shoulders they
forge through the crowd ard traffic is effectually
blocked. An open theatre IS passed. and the din
OF the drums and pipes and squeaky voices Of
the actors joins the already composite claraor.
the stores are open to the street All sorts Of
things are sold; tea store is next to an apothe-
cary shop. and meat store next L that booths
where cheap trinkets for womens hair are sold
project into the already crowded alley, and the
hucksters sing loudly Of their wares 10 the
passers by.
Unless impeHed by an absorbing anthropologi-
cal interest one does not nnger in the Chinese
part of Che-Foo. Still. in spit of the jostHng.
+E,s FrrsfT1e layT
Of sounds, the squalor and the fearful odors, one
is impressed by the universal industry; bar the
wretched beggars everybody seems TO be busy,
and to want to be busy. But this redeeHing
feature appeals to one more after leaving the
citv behind than when one is IN the midst Of
It. It is also pleasant to know that Che-Foo is
one Of the most disagreeable Of Chinese cities.
though. according to our standards. there IS not
much choice among them The city is an i'm
portant one from strategical point Of view
seeming TO command the approach 10 Pekng, al
most all the steamers stopping there on the
way TO the capital It is said out here that
the Germans have an eye on It, and that they
hope 10 include II in a contemplated grab OF the
whole Peninsula.
FROM CHE-FOO TO TAKC.
II is about eighteen hours from Che-Foo TO
Taku Few are the steamers which can go in any
nearer than ten miles Of the low mud forts which
command the entrance Of the Pei-Ho River
for there IS treacherous mud bar stretching
across and at high tide scarcely anything but a
junk or q sampau can cross It. The mud forts
Of Taku are visible from where the ship comes
TO anchor only on a clear day. They form
dim line along the horizon, and this is the only
land in sight. In sharp contrast to the Jagged
peaks of Corea and the sandy heights south OF
Che-Foo this strip of Northern China, which
reaches 10 the sacred capital city, is dead
level There are absolutely no heights TO break
the monot0ny Of the coast line. Before coming
20 anchor several Chinese men-of-war are
passed. They are white, sleek looking ships
entirely foreign built. The sailors are dressed
with certain concession TO foreign ideas
the subject. wearing broad brimued straw hats
and baggy trousers Of blue, tied in at the
ankle One is possessed with a strong desire TO
pop in upon one Of these ships when those
board are unaware. for it Seems certain that all
concessions are merely outward. The foreign
method Of living has not been fully adopted on
board the ships Of the Chinese navy II has
in the Japanese; neither TO judge from the Jap
auese-Chinese war have foreign naval tactics
been very thoroughly assiniIated. From the
little information 10 be gathered relating to this
subject, il would seem that scarcely any change
or Improvement has been made since that time.
Ten chances TO one the passengers are kept in
suspense for at least twenty-four hours. wait
ing hour by hour for the tug TO take them on
shore They may look. il were. on the prom
ised land but they may not enter-until some
body on shore gets good and ready" The
somebody on shore is mathematical by his
helpless victims. who often, in desperation char
ter a fishing junk and sail in that yellow
sea for three hours or more, II all be favorable.
The mud forts grow more and more distinct
behind shipping Of various characters. They
formidable looking structures. we'll equipped for