The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1900-01-28
PASTlMES in PORTUGAL
UNCONVENTIONAL GAYETY ~ WHICH
ROYALTY JOINS.
A Beautiful and Accomplished Queen,
a King without Power and Poor
Country BedIy Governed.
Of the Indianapolis Journal.

Correspondence Of the indianapolis Journal.
EN- ROUTE TO CADIZ. Dec 10
Before bidding adieu TO poor old Portu-
gal. II you there in summer. you should
spend a day at Cascares, the fashionable
seaside resort. fifteen miles from Lisbon
Tue village-whose name is pronounced as
If spelled Kas-kah-enge-lie just north OF
the Tagus's mouth. on the Atlantic, and
may be reached by railway from Lisbon.
or by boat down the river. 1t has tiny
harbor OF its own. accessible only TO coast
ers and other small craft. and is supposed
to be protected by couple Of antique
forts. which an American man-of-war
would send to kingdom come in half
minute
According to Portuguese ideas, life is a
gid~y whirl at Cascares, particularly dur
ing the season." when the royal family
deserts Ajuda TO occupy its palace here.
Everybody arises before the sun, and in
negligee of any sort. providing that IL be
cool and easy. saunters down to the surf
to perform his ablutions and witness other
peoples If lne were stretched from this
point straight across the broad bosom of
the Atlantic, the other end of its three
thousand and odd miles would touch our
own Coney island. There is a queer SIM
ilarity between the two resorts, making
due allowance for the different races. The
same motley but good-natured crowds
come over from the nearby metropolis,
composed chiefly OF hoi poIloi. but with
sprlnklng of upper crust" bent on having
a good time regardless of appearances.
The bathing arrangements at Cascares are
even more unconventional than those that
distinguish popular resort. Here a
group OF white cotton tents are hastily
set up every morning at daybreak. their
nirnsy walls affording scant protection
against prying eyes. and so insecurity
guyed that every sportive breeze threat
ems to snatch them off the sea, exposing
heaven knows what-among the dressing
and undressing people. Last year French
man tried hard to induce the government
to permit him to erect row of substantial
cabins, to remain stationary during the
season and be removed at it's close But
so hated is everything French in this pen
Ursula that. though he offered to pay well
for the privilege, 1t was refused by the
poyerty-stricken powers that be-"
THEY ARE BORN GAMBLERS.
However nobody seems to mind discom-
forts at Cascares, nor the transparent dan
ger Of an expose at critical moments. Fam
HES In the transparent tents chatter gaily
with one another, or with friends passing
outside. while donning the blue flannel
monstrosities that do duty as bathing
suits; then rush into the surf-men and
women. royalty and common clay. all
splashing and spluttering together. BY
7o'clock the morning life is over. the beach
deserted, the tents struck and the people
70 f,ra IF ot rords vI,Ndx
retires to his room, IL he has one. and is
believed to indulge in long siesta, while
tourists and non-residents stray about on
the sands and in the corridors, seeking
shady places and generally finding none
But the drowsy god is by no means wooing
ali those In retirement! Could you get
peep behind many of those carefully closed
green shutters you would see merry gam
ing parties. male and female. in light and
airy neglige, with cigarettes and iced
drinks much in evidence, and little piles of
pesos rapidly changing hands. The true
"Portugee." of either sex, is born gam
bier and dice is the favorite method of
gratifying his natural propensity. They
go at IL with the feverish recklessness of
the Latin temperament, and never know
when to stop; but happily the stakes
low, as much from poverty Of pocket as
because lacking the boldly ventursome
spirit OF the AngIo-Saxon.
About 4:30 D. m. outdoor Cascares again
becomes animated. There Is level stretch
Of road on top of the cliffs, extending
north a mile or two, where both breeze and
views are glorious. But the morning Ar
cadian simplicity has departed; everybody
is out on dress parade in his or her best
clothes and company department. You OBJ
serve that nearly all the ladies whose days
have passed the fieeting bloom of youth are
built on the old-fashioned, generous model
that Banting would like to Danish from the
face OF the earth. Like the typical Virginia
table ''befo' the wah," their only fault is
too abundant plenty; their round white
shoulders uncovered and their shining
tresses elegantly draped in the coquettish
and always graceful lace Enantilla. Those
on foot move with superb dignity of car
riage, unfortunately very rare among
American women. But you look in vain
among the men for any such liberality on
the part of the mother-naturei They are
universally understood and sallow faced
thin, nervous and eager I'm appearance
with delicate, unmanly hands and feet
whose smallness Boston or Chicago girl
might envy, If tales are true OF the shoe
sizes that prevail in .those localities.
AN ACCOMPLISHED QUEEN.
Among the well-dressed, courteous, but
Ito our taste) excessively ugly thrcng.
Queen Amalie shines out like a star She
Is not Portuguese. you know, but French
Though now past her thirtieth year and the
mother OF several children, her tall and
stately figure has not taken on undue fat
and may the saints to whom she prays
preserve her from such calamity Sit
ting erect on the box seat of her trap,
with her little daughter beside her and a
couple OF servants behind she skillfully
guides her four-in-hand, acknowledging her
subjects salutes with dignifed sweetness.
Besides being a beautiful woman she is
exceedingly clever and universally be-
loved. The people rejoice I'm her distinction
as the only royal NJ. ID. In the world. Some
years ago she took a regular four years
course of medicine in the University OF
Lisbon. including attendance on clinics.
as severe study as any other medical stu
dent undergoes. passed her examinations
successfully and took her degree. Ii is
probable that in her case any examination
would have been accounted as success
full" as the wives of presidents are repre-
scented in print possessing all the gifts
orA hut 20 eafH hxr