Graham guardian., 1900-03-02
EUROPEAN CHEESES.
A Number That Have Become Pop
ular In This Country.
xsaeh Owes uts Character 20 the SOIL
and Climate as Well as 90 the
Secrets OF Its Makers-A
Cheese 20 swear At.

The history of cheese may be con-
adhered as condensing the whole pas
toral poetry OF the Aryan race. Ihe
mid and gentle COW, sacred still among
the ArJans OF India, fell especially 10
the charge OF the women. Our very
language proves this. Our word daugh-
ter comes from the Sanscrit duhitar,
meaning the mixer, from the very duo,
70 mix. Dug. for teat, is doubtless
from the same.
Cheese-making has been feminine
profession from the start, and on some
English farms TO this very day the
money coming from the sale of the
cheese is considered as the special per-
quisi,e, pin money, of the wife. Eng
land has long been famous for the
quantity and quality of its cheeses'
America, in wholesale way, is destroy
ing al, the traditions of cheese. Yet,
though America makes cheese by the
mountain-load every year. there are
not, us in England, France and Italy,
any localities famous for special
brands.
The reason Is not far to seek. Our
cheese factories collect the milk Of va
rious areas, having different soils and
pecu.iarities of pasturage, and mix
them, striking thus an average, eatable
Indeed, but lacking character.
II has been proved that the quality
depends on the pasturage. Cows, dairy
maids and special methods of making
have been taken from Cheshire to an
other part OF England, and the result
was product very different from the
famous Cheshire cheese. Cheddar, too,
which comes from vale in Somerset,
has flavor for which there is no chem
ical counterfeit. 1t smacks Of the soil;
u breathes of the pasture.
Erie comes from a small district near
Paris and is a cream cheese of uDrivaled
delicacy, but not easy 10 keep during
warm weather.
Cqmembert, cheese very similar,
though course in flavor, which is made
In large area in Normandy, has been
steadily pushing into favor.
Port l'l.veque comes from Norman
dy. II is not. as some might suppose,
inereiy a camembert gone dry, but is
ir,cciionally made more sold ard
milder in taste, and Is ten per cent.
mc-e costly.
i'~-t du Sa.ut Is another cheese of The
g.. ,e order. but superior in flavor 10 all
cSseut true i,rie. II costs about thc
same as Erie. Rnd il may take rank
ovt, HAT, as that has done ovc- Rogue
io.t. and as i;oquefort did ever Swiss,
which was The first foreign cheese taat
eye- re~ry lad hold on the affections
o. the ~ -ricap stomach.
coquefari. though its price yet is
high, Is a richer cheese, more fond Of
iireo-ins on the h"eath than the Others.
II i made ofgoats' milk and the ohiaro-
osoura effects in it are caused, not by
rustlng II with insertions Of wire. but
by dropping into II some handfuls OF
peasant bread.
Ccrgonzo.a, not French. but Italian,
Is mere expensive than Roquefort,
though its base is the same, namely,
u,e milk Of the goat This cheese comes
from the AH'anese district OF lta.y, re-
taius its aristocratic richness unspoiled
by the democratic climate of America,
and IN good cheese to swear by.
Wherein II differs from Limburger--
a good one TO swear at.
Parmesan. another italian or Siciliau
variety. has been kept Is years and
found still delicious and full of life and
power.
Neufchatel Is French cheese. not Q
Swiss, MS many fancy. from the name
n. Y. World.