Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-09-22

Special Correspondence.
Bureos Spain Aug 1.-THE short
railway ride from NaIiadohd TO TINS
ancient capital was made in darkness
until a belated moon arose TO gIo-iiy
the earth. At Uurgos station, Ear out
side the city walls sleepy guard win
lantern In hand and sword clanking az
his heels ovgrhau,od our hand-Iuggage,
the trunks being retained for examina-
ton in the morning Then We were
bundled into carriage drawn by mules
and ratified avay-oyer the wonderful
old bridge OF Santa Maria and under It's
towering gateway In whose lofty
nltrheg mail-rIul statues Of the CID
and half "a dozen other Burg0lese
WORTHLESS seemed to- grin down upon us
IN he uncertain lIght through narrow,
drsertcd streets. 90 the Hotel del Norte.
where our Jphu drew up with % flourish
that brought heads 90 the surrounding
wlndoVs-just as the watchmen, on
their accustomed rounds drOnpd out
the dime OF nighU "a las doCe y ma
dla CHHf past eleven. La noche cs
clara y serena. Ave Maria sanctis-
sinai"
By the way who comes to Burgos
would better remember to make q strict
bargain iu advance before entering any
hotel Being on iho main highway OF
travel, ali tourists halt here, and so
the innkecpers have become frlghtfully
extortlonate. ~ every article that can
possibly be required is not distinctly
specified even t0 the bedroom candle
and necessary service, the blll-large
enough, iu all conscience at first reck-
onlng-will Doc doubled by interpOla-
lions OF extras All the guide books
put down this hotel OF the north as
the best in Burg1s ana n that be- true.
may a gracious Providence preserve us
from the othcrs' Grim and gloomy
outside. the first view OF It's Interior
sends a chill 20 your marrow, akin TO
that experienced In entering
LONG-CLOsED VAULT
in the cemetery The brick floors are
cold and damp I'm all We0thers. ana
when you have toiied up two or three
flights of stairs. through dark and
smelly passages and made your selec-
ton between several equally stufy
deng OF rooms where ghosts OF genera
lions Of dead Spanlards seem 20 be-
fiutter.ng the curtains and counter
panes that have not seen soap and
water since their long-past day-With
the knowledge that for such accommo-
dalton you must pay more per diem
than for the best I'm the Waldorf AS
torla OF New York City-you confess 10
feeling Of relief that the Spanish tour,
90 charming IN the main, is almost over.
AS to fellow-lodgers In the form Of yer-
min the subject Is too narrowing 10 be
pursued and the veil" would better
be drawn Unable 10 sleep for the
warmth of their welcome. ! spent most
OF my first night In Burgos out on the
balcony In the moon light Not far
away stood one Of the grandest cathe-
drals In Spain-sO situated on the slope
OF the Hill that its roof. pinnacled with
exquisite lace-work towers and arches.
was on a level with my feet-the whole
vast pile looking so airy and delicate IN
the mellow radiance that I half expect
cd 10 see u float away with the mists Of
the morning Farther away rose
ridge hundreds Of feet high. crowned
With castle a thousand years
old which was once the city's
glory ana defiance, and has borne
its part well In lnnumerable wars.
down 20 the last siege Of