The daily journal. (Salem, Or.) 1899-1903, 1900-08-20

eat mussels roasted on the rocks. There
are endless quantities OF those beautiful
bivalves, deep pearl blue on the inside,
blue and black on the outside and look
ing as If they were vanished. The
mussel is richly orange color with a
slightly pungent salt water flavor. 1t
adheres TO the rock and TO other mus.
sells by cluster Of bristles. While at
the lighthouse Indian women we're
gathering them in creels and Pack.
ing them up the cliff by a band oyer
their forehead.
We built fire on the rocks to brew
our coffee and toast our bread. The
coffee was settled by a dash Of cold
water and the Armours' choicest break
fast bacon was broiled to turn on the
Goals, when we put our mussels on
the hot rocks and covered them over
with others. In five minutes they an.
nounced by their own tempting flavor
that breakfast was ready. The mussel
has no sand in it, but is salted and pep
pered by old dame nature just TO my
taste, and put the finishing course on an
outdoor breakfast.
Sunsets on the Sea
The sunsets at the western coast are
alone worth tie cost Of trip here. On
the Atlantic people only see the sunrises
but here we only see his majesty take
his evening dip into the endless Pacific.
Often there is bank OF clouds revealed
"iust as the sun goes down" Then
there are wonderful revelations Of q sun
down city Of gold, with towers and cas-.
ties, spires and minarets. Sometimes a
whole city appears. II is almost impos.
sible to describe the beauty Of perfect
sunset at sea, and we see good many Of
them at Newport this month and next.
The aftsrglow is as beautiful as the de
scent into the waves is impressive. As
the sun goes under II changes in shape.
II flattens out and at last seems to quiv-
or like molten mass Of gold. Then the
western skies light up with yellows, pale
green's and finally merges into pale blue,
with the stars peeping through.
Life al Seal Rocks.
There are only four families here in
cottages, and not many at the hotel.
Squire Farrer's family are here and, with
improvements made this year, have the
best appointed cottage we have seen on
these coasts. II has wide porches,
beautiful views OF the ocean on three
sides, with large windows to the sea
from the dining room and sitting room,
and interiors made cosy and inviting,
The library and parlor are carpeted with
brussels and plenty of rugs and the
Squire likes IL 80 well he wants to live
here the year round.
Seal Rocks have the richest natural
bill Of fare Of any place in the world that
know Of. There is venison and salmon,
trout and shellhsh, mutton, beef and
poultry, blue berries and in this latter
part of August, the finest strawberries
l ever saw, and think | know what
Strawberries are. The vegetables are all
fine, and Mrs. Stitt knows how to
prepare il all with a homelike relish.
Then there is the wonderful Alsea
honey, good milk and butter.
Sea Lion ana Fishing.
Sea Lion hunters from New York have
been operating at Heceta head and the
herds have been taking refuge by the
thousand at Seal Rocks. Here they are
undisturbed, as some old act of the leg
islature iorbids killing animals ON these
rocks. Still some one shot a kitten or
baby sea lion the other day and coward
ly left il to bleat and die on the rocks.
IL came Ashore and some one skinned it
10 make himself bit of brown fur.
Fishing at Seal Rocks is head OF any
summer resort on this coast. There are
salmon trout at Beaver creek two miles
north, mountain trout in the lakes and