New-York tribune., 1900-08-26
THE PARTISAN TOILET.
AUTUMN GOWNS RESEMBLE THOSE
WORN A DOZEN YEARS AGO
SKIRTS ARE FULLER
Paris. August II.

ShIRIS AXE FULLER.
Paris. August II
Prettier than the gold braid that is so lavishly
used autumn gowns is gold embroidery done
on coarse heavy linen that may be used for col
lars. Jokes and vests mixed with lace incrusta-
tions 70 form elaborate trimming. This em-
broidery is. of course, hand work and without
having the colors of what is generally termed
Russian embroidery, suggests 1t in pattern 1t is
only expensive gowns, and yet it is an
addition to a gown that makes pretty fancy work
for idle afternoons
Another idea TO be noted when discussing
autumn gowns in general is that of using cloth
cut in fine stitched teeth. These rows Of little
points may lie over deeper points of different
color or material and several rows may be used.
The effect In black and white is very smart.
The suit in mind is of black cloth, made with
plain skirt that has inverted box pleat in the
back, This box pleat is trimmed along its length
with double rows of small points, cut out Of the
cloth and lying over slightly larger points of
white satin. The points toward the middle
Of the back, and the white ones stitched with
black and the black with white This samei
trimming up the back of the bodice. inter
rupted only by fold Of the cloth at the waist
line. The front of the blouse opens TO show vest
and oslOker OF tucked white satin and about the
shoulders and down the sides OF the blouse is a
trimming OF coarse ecru- lace. studded with heavy
jets. .-rs
WORD ABOUT BOLEROs.
handsome gown of black lace has a seasonable
euect cue 10 a trimming OF twisted Of black
and white panne, an effect that could easily be
transferred TO summer gown that is worth
renovating- The model has a pleated skirt with
pleats released 10 make foot deep founce about
the bottom This hounce has trimming Of baby
velvet ribbon in black and white. and this same
trimming is repeated on a light blue ground to
drapeG about this and fastened bT two bows Of
twisted loops OF black and white velvet connected
by similar loops.
WGTd as TO b9eT9s These little jackets Of
ana most aDoratey trimmed
= tb Pelg & SOiq S ior song IN the Paris shops This
It's day To De sure some odd, short forms Of a
serious Street SUITS The aors are using 0 ongr Eer
cred the favorite model fer a shirt and Jacket suit
r Inc 70 d2uch & OF gold seems TO be used on every
all gG%n an9 The negge are
e sed dn so 1qeD[eo 10 II how much gold
flIi f. Ie o- aoose cosIuIss may 9e judged from the
The f1rsr IS a7Directoire froek of white silk mus
are eey ep6 r Pare & ye9y foundation There
with wide band Of gold gauze. embroidered with
trimming edges the short jacket behind and then
lust Below the e sbosr orf5st n the ar arm holes
little cuff Of the same trimming worn just below
SOME DAINTY GOWNS
An elaborate gown of the same description has
flowing mantle Of white gauze striped with gold
lines There is a, fitted underdress of rose satin
held about the waist by a high belt Of panne Of.
the same color. About the shoulders is a large
on the bust with bows OF black velvet and fails in
tw9 cascades down the skirt. ~
q woke of linen erad7 i+ Us se5il nas
gown talls in pleats from the yoke and is trimmed
white lace Oo''oli pS Incl Hsta1ons OF black and
Very odd is a desha bile Of pink silk arranged IN
Ight, perfectly fitting princess over this is a
tunic shorter IN front than the back of white
This hangs in straight folds from the Sf1ouders
@ 14our tne z aaII low neck AZ deep collar OF art
@ @opgre sLqaded with jets and the same, lace makes
0aLs nan sleeves over close puffed sleeves Of the
iY,i IIio9ssene The tunic is nowhere so long the
ot 1h SKlTt r ang the latter Is trimmed about the
smart touch on a negiigee of brocaded blue silk
~ Dy@ o. DIack YefVet placed at the back Of the
ne re moor Inls idea is Of course borrowed from
effecti @ % Shoker With its long ends Another
1s ros9 yetow moussene de sole, the ribbon being
fs 6oiero that confines the loose folds Of the soft
af bag over The s36a 6et many ia fr6n 99u'ez
refer to this style Of bodice as the most popular
fuller about the bottom tbe arrival s @ skirts F grow
are Needed for 14hefeeq ih ana only larger sleeves
dozen years ago There is a ss,,inp s,nare ~ ~
coutuFieres that fashions return every seven Years.
NEW FORM OF THE BLOUSE.
What seems really to have taken the place of
the boero is blouse that tucks into a belt but
which has a jacket effect through being opened TO
Hho" chemisette and vest pretty example OF
this style is a costume made Of a LIGHT weight
co5h OF iron gray stitched heavily with black The
Is 4 tunic, opened in front ana also stitched I'm
several rows. Tho blouse Is ornamented with
points cut Of cloth. that extend from under tbe
arms to the bust. and then make a shawl rever
tnat ends IN the belt This leaves a nointed
ci.efllsets OF black silk tucked trimmed Xyifh
Ihe back OF the jacket has Il little roll-over cola
OF D!ack, ana the belt IS of black This sama
noQel IS attractlNe IN aapSeful navy blue serge
mace DAINTY with cheniSetEe of AoPr
These little stitched teeth. or points are anothar
illustration Of the idea described in the beeinnin1
q tnis letter They are seen again smaller and
nner. on gown Of French blue. the teeth falling
over points Of panne an a shade somewhat lighter
several rows OF these go down the sides of The
skirt and head the circular nounce- The bodice
Is an open blouse with Of maid haiti
tucked white lawn chemisette A frr7rnin1 oS
some thin wash stuff seems TO be charsoteT33stin
q most OF the fali gowns and this stuff NAV he
the gown just described. - - S "a
The hunting season has begun, and the fashion
able tFenchWOman, Who IS, Of course. al ber o1yp
or some friends country chateau has a1deG -
hunting shooting costume to her wardrobs
Ihese only difer from ordinary outing SUITS bv
nasihg fnoch snofeer skirts. sometimes bound with
leather A neat model has !. belted Iackef 6fted
behind and the sides, but with the doI,hIe
breasted 'front.' failing loose he belt
form Is the blouse jacket, tucked into the et M
Although the tatOTs make great point az sbogi,,o
tnSss gowns every season. II IS doubtful II theV
see much active service. FrenehWonen win not
take sport entails much
Then. too there has been for the lasf ,sea
or 50 decided reaction among the best ISrsncb
women against the sports that have been intro
vogue here, tennis but little. the bicycle fell frn
favor long ago. and riding and running An antoro
BILE are about all that Is left. The automobiIe e
firmly snscOnced In favor. and quite as popular
parties are in great favor and looked forward 10 a
interesting ds39s ~ tee agtuHgp JsusTSg2gs2e.