The Washington weekly post., 1900-12-11

/ / do not know, but any observer must
| admit that present styles more often
| dwarf the woman than add to her charm.
| That dress should be an accessory and
never allowed 10 dominate seems entirely
| forgotten. The question of how much a
| costume can be made to cost, rather than
| how far IL can be made 10 enhance the
| wearer's charm. seems TO be the underly-
| ing thought. Barbaric splendor has mark
ed many a recent gathering rather than
any real sense Of art or beauty. As our
women are not modelled on barbaric lines
sad lack OF harmony has been the re-
suit.
One Of the loveliest of the white cloth
gowns have seen is cut on almost classic
lines. and is trimmed only with bands
Of handsome mink The skirt falls In
graceful, sweeping lines with the fur bor-
dering the edge. and extends up to form
a corselet in princesse style, which Is
edged with narrow Irish crochet en- ap-
plque. The bolero is short and cut In
graceful curves. which in turn are edged
with the fur and the full bodice beneath
is Of the Irish crochet over chiffon. With
II is worn a wrap Of the brown fur with
long stole ends. and a hat of lace with
fur brim. The only note OF contrasting
color being found in the pale crush roses
| that rest against the hair. Fine mink is
much liked and much worn Indeed. 1t
not infrequently happens that much Of
the tall1ed-of sable is in reality the far
less costly skin well chosen. As l write
I recall a cape, made for a woman wise
in the ways of the world, that has been
very generally admired, and often classed
among the garments of the royal fur,
that in reality was far less extravagant
than ii appears. Mink tails are always
handsome when rightly used. Neverthe-
less, as the creatures are small, they are
apt 10 collect on the furrier's hands. The
cape in question owes much of its beauty
TO the deep founce made entirely from
these extras. and which were purchased
at a genuine bargain. The upper por-
tion being all of selected skins. contrasts
admirably with the darker tails, and, to
complete the whole. there is a lining OF
white satin brocade and 1abots of fine
lace.
More serviceable visiting gowns those
that allow of wearing upon the street
are of necessity quieter in color and the
tan. castor brown, and mode suggestion
sent from Paris is certain to meet with
| instant success. wise observer has
/ laid down the law that 10 look at her best
| woman must consider harmony with
I her hair for street wear. with her eyes
I for evening dress. When we remember
/ how many brownies there are among
/ wcmankind. there Is reason to hope that
/ beauty Of the wearer. as well as Of the
| gown, will be developed can think of
nothing in the ay of dress more painful
| than 10 see women whose coloring cries
out fer Just such tones, wearing pink,
/ blue, or what not because the fad of the
I moment declares Il the color of "a mode
/ Pardon me If I grow tiresome, but color
| seems 40 little understood, yet Is, and
/ must be. the fundamental element in all
| successful gowns. The woman who rec
/ ognizes the fact and understands herself.
often makes a hetter showing with far
/ less cost than her less artistic rival with
more
! Kid cloth Is RAPIDLY gaining favor. even
| to the exclusion of the satin-faced sort
| that has held IT'S place so successfully As
/ its name implies It has finish like a fine
1 suede glove and is so soft and rliabIe as
| TO lend itself 10 tucks and folds with sin
! gular success. All cloth trimnei with
| stitched silk has been used until I. is a
| familiar friend, and We are now going a
! step farther and use bands Of cloth on
! silk, and cloth in combination with nous
/ seline and chiffon. One OF the handsam-
! est theater waists have seen Is OF bis
| cuit-eoIored peau de sole, with the strap
| pings of the same shade in kid cloth An
4 exquisite gown. Just sent from .he other
| side. has an entire skirt of white chiffon
| finely plated to above the knees and full
| at the bard with an overdress formed of
/ panels Of white cloth embroidered with
| silver. while the bodice is a tiny bolero Of
| the cloth with full waist Of chiffon be-
/ meath. With these gowns are worn toques
/ Of lace and chiffon or pretty picture hats
/ Of the delicate materials, with ostrich tips
or trimming. One that recall with spe.
| cial distinctness is in picture style and OF
| palest blue, the crown and brim a mass
Of tiny tucks in chiffon. while over the
brim falls a fringe OF the finest proeur-
| able feathers.
Fur. as brim and band, Is much used IN
| conjunction with lace crown for after
moons: but is not quite correct for even
/ ing wear These latter occasions call for
much elaboration. but happily tha theater
and all the many demands for seni-dress
can be met with the odd waist. Year BY
year we are told that those useful ad-
juncts 10 the toilet are doomed. but fail
to discover any appreciable falling OF.
Lace is much liked, as is white and deli
| eately-tinted silk OF the softest sorts.
| With them are worn skirts Ct fine cloth.
[ that are preferably tan or gray. As a
4 rule. these are simply made. depending
| upon tucks or bands for trimming. but
| the waists are often elaborate, and belts
are simply exquisite In design and brill
( iaut with gems. One Of the pretlIest
white waists seen at the theater this past
/ week was OF cream Renaissance lace,
with white chiffon and edging. The open
front, with rhinestone buttons. set so close
as TO form a continuous line, while the
belt of soft silk was held by a clasp,
which fairly seintillated with fine French
stones. set in gold plated on silver. TIE
few women who can afford the luxury
wear genuine gems set In odd shapes
ard some exquisite things are seen In such
serni-precious stones as fresh-water pearls
but the greater number are the fine iml.
tations that Paris knows how 10 make.
The turquoise mstrix is always beauii
ful and has great vogue, and 70 iesseu
the cost Is often set with the gold on sill
YER that Is rarely beautiful. yet conveys
none OF the diEagreeable sense Of ila!ta.
ton that gilt, no matter how cieYerly
handled. is apt to mean Some Of the
very newest clasps are large as well az
handsome, but the narrower designs are
more generally becoming, The fresh.
water pearls In silver or rose gold are
beautiful as can be. yet not over eostly-a
fact Il will be well 10 bear In mind as
Christmas draws near. Women never
posses too many trinkets. To add such a