Evening star., 1900-08-18
FASHIONS IN MEMS DRESS.
A Return to More Sober Effects in
Clothing is Noted.
From the Haberdasher


From the Haberdasher.
There are unmistakable evidences of a
return to less color and to more white
and black in our dress The fancy fianneIs
have just about killed color. With shirts
screaming to heaven, ties proclaiming every
tone In the rainbow and half hose and hat
bands vying with each other in brilliancy,
1t only needed the colored suit to make
men OF taste run to cover. Now white
negliges. If your please, black belts, quiet
ties, black shoes, black hat bands, blue
serges. neat black and white and brown
suitings-there it is-the pinnacle of fash
ion. the acme of good form.
l hardly think that this revolution will
lead into winter clothing except to a lin
fted extent The large cravats which will
be popular will be in brilliant colors, but
shirts will be more subdued. and blacks.
grays and browns will be the color suit
ings par excellence.
And about winter cravats Just a word or
two. There are some wrinkles, some
new forms and twists, and you ought to
know them. First. then. the large cravat.
the "Culross," will not be tied in the once
over form as universally 1t was last
year. The new kink is THIS: Take a 'Cul-
roSs,' put 1t about your neck, make the
first move as in tying an ascot Let the up
per apron hang straight down. Pin 1t with
rather large pin, about one-third of the
distance between the collar button and the
place where the waistcoat opening COM
mences. It's very simple-any one can do
1t. Then the .'Culross'' will also be tied in
the old-fashioned Ascot way. and four-in-
hands, folded in. and big and broad, will
be tied very loosely, with large pin in
the aprons. The Derbies will be worn with
high-banders. as will the 'Ogees' or but
terf1ies and the batwings. These ties will
have pointed and square ends.
In shirts there are likely to be very few
al IN MON Of tv,,,N f,,
either the white or colored. The dress shirt
will be made Of pure white, plain bosom
showing three stud holes. Embroidery or
pleats will not be correct The cuffs will
be very slightly rounded and square. The
return to square points is not at all as
sured. l mention it because several very
smart custom shirtmakers have brought II
out. In colored shirts the percaias will
show neat combinations in colors and small
units and stripes The striped madras
shirtings will be in every treatment, in
either blue, OK blood. black or hello in COM
bination with white. The stripes will run
up and down the bosom, but some patterns
will be made with the cross-stripe treat
ment. l believe croSs-stripes will figure
quite extensively in custom-made shirts.
For golf, Panama and flannels, in neat
striped and checkered patterns. will be pop
uar. The peculiar three-colored combina-
tions and the loud effects will not receive
that attention which they enjoyed last
year.
In gloves our staple colorings will be
maintained. The heavy red tan cape sad
dler-stitched. will be proper for walking:
the smoke pearl, with self backs for full
dress, and the slate and tan chevrettes for
afternoon. The gloves will close with the
bone or pearl button. Today the metal
clasp is the earmark of the cheap glove
For walking and outing the gloves should
be at least size larger than Is usually
worn. For dress gloves should fit fault
lessly.
In shoes we will stick to the fiat sole.
he tn ha,
plain tip, with row of hole ornament on
the inner side and another row where the
uppers are attached to the vamp. For day
wear, black calf with laced uppers; for
formal wear, patent feathers with buttoned
calf uppers. There is no place in the entire
bill Of correct dress for laced patent leath-
ers.
The high or silk hats, as well as the crush
hats, will show a slightly belled crown and
rather narrow well-curled brim. The derby
will be small and very much like last
springs model The soft hats will continue
to be popular. They will have wide brims
and high crowns. and will be worn with
plain ribbon band.
The trend in all things is toward the mod
crate and unobtrusive. There will be no
radical 1ntroductionS and no color fads The
season Is sure to be marked by a very con-
servative tone. one that denotes the disgust
OF man with license in the matter of colors
and boldness in dress 1t is the same old
fight against extremes and extravasances
that the sensible American may always be
relied upon to win.