Evening star., 1900-10-13
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JAIL
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star


The arrival of autumn is heralded in the
gorgeous colors seen in the early winter
models now being brought out by the shop
keepers Of the Magasin sort and by the
modistes and milliners of the famous Rue
de la Paix and the Avenue de rOpera.
Bright Colors have succeeded the dull pas
tells, and 1t promises to be a reign of rare
gOrgeOusness for the fashion leaders. Hats
and toques are both draped. Never was
there such a craze for ample lengths of
cloth. whether in gown. wrap or chapeau.
Toques are larger than last season, and.
covered with frills or plaits of panne or
velvet, they are as imposing as the tur-
bans that fiourished in the early quarter Of
the century. Autumn foliage is being rec
ognized as of service in trimming and is
adopted in making up the befounced and
plated panne hats that are shown in mill
liners shops. Pink and red are the pre-
vailing colors IN hats and trimmings, al
though elderly women still cling to the
neutral shades. The pinks and reds, how
ever, are most becoming to young faces.
An exquisite creation of the panne order
was of deep coral pink. made with a high
crown. Around the top of the crown was
stretched narrow band of ribbon, q loose
fold of ribbon of the same sort being loose
ly knotted about the lower part OF the
crown. and two light wings extended back
from a front knot of ribbon. The brims of
nearly all the hats shown are bound with
narrow bands Of velvet.
Popular just Now.
Huge bows and choux are much used In
trimming the hats, and bows from which
depend long streamers of ribbon are adopt
ed on hats aiming at extreme novelty in
make up. Buckles are seen in all the bows
and the most elegant of hat pins are worn
with the plainest Of rough-weather felts.
The toreador, the directoire and the wide
brimmed picture hats are among the early
models. but as they are last seasons pat
terms there is little doubt that some newer
and more striking design will be seen on
the heads of the fashionables Long,
sweeping ostrich athers are swathed
around the crowns and draped down over
the sides Of hats with a luxurious profuse-
ness that well freshens in the memory the
fact that those who design hats do not
have to pay for them.
Paris says ospreys and birds wings and
aigrets are TO be part of the trimming of
a smart winter hat. just how fashion and
convenience will be reconciled to this news
on the other side of the water don't know
especially in New York where 1 hear, the
Audubon Society utterly dscountenances
the wearing of plumage and has law to
enforce It's wishes Far be 1t from me to
criticise the wisdom of the law; 1t IL most
wise and just. since SO many silly women
cannot be made to respect the rights Of
sOngsters who brighten the summers and
protect the fields and orchards that they
EnOulu De COmpelleQ 10 90 so. 1nere are
some women whom / have often thought
could have been better spared from the
community than could the dainty birds
they wear upon their hats.
Most in Demand.
Artificial feathers have, 1 understand
been substituted for real ones on some of
the transatlantic millinery. Bird of para
disc, impeyan and logophore feathers are
those most in demand for hat trimming
The vogue Of the directore coats seems
assured. Made by skilled couturiere, they
are snug and smart and new. They should
only be worn by women with plump, we'll
nodded figures, the extreme In thnness or
embonpoint finding them equally unbecOm-
ing. handsome coat OF the directoire cut
was worn at a recent flower show by a
very fashionable woman. 1t was made of
brown CLOTH the revers and edge Of the
Jacket being ornamented with a narrow
band OF s0tched orange-coiored cloth. The
sleeves were wide and showed effectively
the pured under part of soft white muslin
Buttons and silken braiding trimmed the
front portion of the orange cloth. The skirt
was laid in narrow tucks fiaring out below
into founcelike fullness. The underbodice
Of muslin WAS fashioned with an extreme
fullness, the wide ties of softest muslin
being tied at the neck in bow of surpass-
Ing bOuffancy
Bo1erO Jackets.
The extreme shortness of the winter bo-
lorO jackets was called to my attention by
one Of Redfern's gowns, a costume of blue
cloth skirt and jacket. fastening in front
with little tabs of cloth held in place by
silver buttons. A deep double collar on the
Jacket gave It a rather Quakerish appear
ance, the sleeves. wide spreading below
opening over puffed satin blouse sleeves
The satin of the ceinture, which lengthens
the line OF the bolero, was of satin of the
same color as the sleeves
Mere nothings the new boleros All
q re- rhar lt-Y
qualities. They have disproportonately
large revers and short bodies The ceinture
that shows at the waist line Is part Of the
Jacket. and may be so short as to show the
real gtrdle of the blouse beneath. Such
one was the embroidered toile ce.nture
or a certain costume of serge the wide
pointed revers falling back between the
lower half of the front and being embroid-
cred handsomely IN black
The plated boleros, which are far from