The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1900-04-08
Among the New Gowns.
New York Sun.

New York Sun.
The waist line moved up under the arms
is indeed a decided change and one which
gives a very quaint appearance TO a slen-
der figure. Partly worn silk and satin
gowns can be very easily utilized for the
foundation slip, which must be closely fit
ted. One thing which is very evident In
regard to the Empire gowns is that they
were never intended for stout women, while
they are extremely graceful on slender
women
A rather novel feature of the new gath
cred skirt is the line Of lead sewn in the
hem to weight il down. 1t is made with
the separate foundation skirt also supplied
with lead, shot, or something heavy TO keep
st from flying out, and the gathers begin at
either side of a narrow front breadth Some
of the skirts are shirred down in a point.
others are shirred only twice straight
around. and a novel idea is TO tuck the
sides about three inches below the waist
line, in the narrowest possible tucks each
way TO form inch squares, and then to
gather that portion into the waist band.
This skirt Is gored, but there are skirts
made of straight widths shirred and tucked
into the waist, skirts which are a modified
form OF the plain skirt slightly draped at
one side, and skirts tucked and plated in
every conceivable manner. a skirt stitched
in tiny tucks all around the upper portion,
except directly in front, is one OF the popu-
lar models. Two-inch-wide tucks, stitched
iE at either side of a narrow front. are
very effective, and with these are two in
serted box plaits at each side with a wide
space between They are stitched down a
little way from each edge, to within six
teen inches OF the hem. which gives a
pretty fullness around the feet, and the
back has a full double box plat.
The most surprising feature Of the new
models is found in the sleeves, which In
many instances are a modified revival of
upper portion OF the sleeve, extending 10 a
little below the elbow. will be OF the same
material as the gown, tucked all over in
vertical lines II you ike, and the lower
sleeve. gathered slightly at the back into
a fancy embroidered cuff. will be OF some
contrasting material and color, possibly
black satin. This undersleeve it quite plain
where the upper one falls over it so IL has
not the effect OF a large sleeve, and the
little narrow reyers which turn back, faced
with whatever touch OF color the gown
may have. are very effective. An under
sleeve OF black satin with a straight
around three inch cuff of gold galoon dec
GRATED with colored embroidery is the fea-
ture OF a pale tan canvas gown. An en-
couraginS. indication shown in the new
sleeve is the apparent fullness at the top
where there are enough gathers TO do
away entirely with the close appearance
across the top of the arm. a little cap
effect which matches the yoke or the
bolero is another becoming feature.
Every other gown. nearly. has some form
of the bolero, quite short in most in
stances. and yokes and vests are the choice
II you taboo this little jacket.
In the detail Of finish among the new
gowns there are some unique combinations.
such as white and colored linen Will
1oulard silk For m a shaped band
OF white linen stitched over with rows Of
red silk and Joined TO another portion of
tucked blde linen. matching the blue in the
silk. forms the yoke and collar. Glossy
soft linen IL a decided feature among the
rev mater ais. II is woven of rather coarse
thread. bur IS very smooth and even n
pliable. and IL Is used for entire gowns,
waists and various trimmings stitched or
tucked as the case may be- The combina-
tioa OF p!que and foulard silk is an old