The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1900-11-03

lace or pierced embroidered applications.
the wonder of these suits is that they are
founded only on chiffon Innings, for other
wise, say the purveyors Of rich raiment,
II would be impossible to obtain the air
Of dusky, cloud-like beauty that the we'll
made black dress must show, az well as
the clinging quality of its vaporous folds.
To examine one of these gowns In the
hand is to have revealed the results OF
the most delicate mechanism known to
the high art seamstress. Three layers OF
hack, lusterless chiffon form the founda
tons for skirt and waist OF the dinner
toilet in the accompanying illustration.
Upon this drops the dress proper wrought
all of black silk muslin, tucked perpendic
ularly from shoulders to- foot and every
tuck done by hand. These Fuckers are 50
arranged that instead of being creased
fiat. like the blade OF knife. they stand
straight out. in hundreds of wee flutes.
with rounding tops. and then upon this
buoyant surface liz laid a strange orna-
mental pattern of black silk renaissance
lace. its edges completed with narrow
bands of taffeta. A gown of this type,
without It's whalebones, weighs only two
pounds.
A CASHMERE FLANNEL BLOUSE.
Sweet, upon the ussom figure OF 90
average American girl. is the flannel shirt
waist of this season. 1t is either an acute
ly plain blouse. fastened up the front with
Pilt buttons, on which thistle is en-
bCssed or IT is elaborated wit. pin tucks
and embroidered bands--a thing of intrin-
sic beauty as well as comfort There is a
suggestion for any slender figure In the
shirt set forth in a drawing that eluci-
'ates the above remarks. a soft Wotau
blue cashmere fannel Is what the sketch s
original was made Of, and IN the bands
or ecru silk canvas were pleasantly blend
90, In a Persian pattern threads OF yell
30 ar n 70 10 -inn
tucks were stitched with green TX, and
the soft silk lie under the stiff turnover
collar Of flannel was of green, with broad
hands Of dull red forming n border.
In the shopping district women are
gathered in groups before windows where
taffeta and flannel blouses are displayed,
to critcise or admire the groups of bias
tucks and chains of tiny gilt CT crystal
uttons that ornament the front OF these
ever comfortable garments. There Is a
great deal of interest In the blouses made
of flannel handkerchief These are the
direct Inspiration of the China silk and
foulard handkerchief blouses and very
nearly pretty. The wool squares arc
tremendously bordered in stripes Of at
least three soft, harmonious tones which,
in the cutting OF the garment, are intro
duced on the cuff, collar. yoke and down
tho fronts.
THE NJ. F. HIS COAT.
tumn waists take the form of high cord
ed Bands OF silk, completed with q turn
over top of the same goods, and mar
row-folded band at the base, which band
draws into four-in-hand Knot while the
ends extend half way to the waist line.
For all save sporting costume the stock
Las been wholly ignored in the past sum-
i-ter. There are golhnE and riding women
VINO cling TO It, as the most comfortable
and tidy throat finish. and this autumn
;ne graceful, conservative form of riding
habit, that Is to say. the habit with a
1ong-skirted coat, Will be worn again
Women stout ana women slim appear t.
far greater advantage with the full coat
skirts extending nearly to their knees, the
sriall revers turning back 10 reveal n soft
snowy linen stock. This is the NJ. +. H..
or Master of the Fox Hounds coat, and
dc maids top hat, in place OF the durnpy
brown or black derby that has been 81
much and so appropriately wcrn.
MARY DEAN.