The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-12-09
THE DOCTRINE OF DRESS
Amelia +. Barr Considers 1t an I'M
portant Aid to Happiness.
Taken rs n National Index Of Char
meter. Dress Is the Outward Sign of
Fay R.imcnt Affects the Nations of
the world-The History of Clothes.

Dress is very important steppins-stone
10 happiness. As all pature is the gar
ment of God. by which he is manifest TO
u.s. as the spirit is clothed by the body, and
the body in turn is made beautiful or re-
pulsivc by the indwelling soul, so is dress
related TO the body. For. supposing man
or woman to have sufficient money TO
dress according to desire, then attire be-
comes TO mind all that form is to sub
stance 1t is an index, a symbolic lam
guage; 60 much so, that a lover having
seen his mistress in her various costumes
has the key TO her character, if he have
wit enough to use it.
Taken as a national. index OF character,
dress is the outward sign of people
peculiar genius. Their square, graceiess,
scant clothes were as characteristic oil the
Egyptians as their pyramids and obeiisks.
The loose. ample robes of Asiatics are the
natural drapery OF luxurious temporal
ment The elegance of the ancient Greek
costume was the rdiment OF race 10 whom
form was more than color. The homeli-
ness of Saxon fashions. the rude magnifi-
cence OF Norman barons, the picturesque
garb of the Scotch clans; indeed. all ma
tional costumes. have far deeper signih-
canoe than vanity; and some Daniel will
set arose who shall judge the centuries by
the way in which they have dressed them
eelves.
More familiar to us, is the cosmical
change going on under our own eyes-a
change that AS a sign of our era. is quite
rs remarka bile as any indicated-the rapid
disappearance of all national and class
costumes. The pretty. suitable dresses
that clothed the peasantry Of all countries
are being rapidly abandoned; and men and
women grow more and more cosmopolitan
In matters of attire. In every land, wo-
men now wear the same gowns and bon
nets: and every respectable man on the
planet is supposed to have a tweed suit
and a Derby hat. This means much mere
than fashion and vanity: it means the
grinding TO powder in the democratic
mill. of all signs and symbols of slavery.
feudalism. and mans inequality. ii
means that men and women are every
where throwing off the bondage of caste,
and asserting through their coats ard hats
and dresses that one human being is just
rs coed as another.
Now If dress has such pronounced and
wide national significance, its personal
power is even more remarkable. We are
ell influenced, not only by what others
wear. but by what We wear ourselves. The
business suit of good, dark tweed, the
white. fine linen, the stiff collar and cuhs,
give kind of moral support, and inspire
confidence. A loose. careless dress con-
duces to a loose careless habit of mind.
There is positive value in the different
suits that men wear. because they are
positive help to the frame of mind neces-
sary for the occasion.
A sui, that is associated with the re-
epect due TO the sanctuary Is best Tor
that purpose; there is sober respectable
dress that fits naturally into business
moods: another that seems proper-be-
cause usuai-in formal festivities: an
other of loose easy comfort fcr domestic
relaxation and rest.
4 mans happiness, yea, his success, in
q far greater measure than is suspected,
depends upon such auxiiiaries. And IL
may be taken as an axiom. that man
careless as TO his dress will be careless
about every other matter. And there is
no excuse for such an one at this day; for
in spite of criticism. the male dress of
our period is sensible and healthy, and
highly conducive to comfort and happi-
ness: the soft hat. the easy coats, the
light fianrel garments. and soft ties per-
Missile in hot weather leave nothing to
be desired. especially as men have gen
orally abandoned black. the most I'M
healthy of all colors-
The fundamental theory OF clothes,
then, asserts the existence of harmony
between human beings and their artificial
covering; and also harmony between
human beings and the work in which
they are occupied, or the circumstances
in which they are placed. VIII Honey
comb says that he can tell the humor a
woman is in by the color of her hood"
he &c nd hnc
bands would make study of their wives
ribbons and gowns and toilet peculiari-
ties they might avoid many matrimonial
blunders. knew once very wise man
who always went softly and considered
his words well when his wife came 10 the
breakfast table In q certain red shawl.
have not the slightest doubt that an in
diridual observance OF this sympathy be
tween dress and moods would save many
. domestic quarrel, and 80 conduce TO
much happiness.
It is indeed impossible for the most ar
bitrary fashion to eradicate, In sensitive
women especially. certain tendencies TO
symbolic their states OF mind by their
dress. Most of my female readers. ] dare
say, possess bonnets and gowns that they
can only wear on days when they are lat
their best when they are equal to
them" There are days and moods in
which curled, or loose wandering hair is
intolerable. Any man OF ordinary tact or
intelligence may know. when wom-
ans hair is brushed tightly back and rigid
ly coiled. when her bright ribbons are hid
den in drawers, her pink and blue dresses
hung at the back Of her wardrobe. and
when she herself appears severely clad In
her black alpaca, that the woman Is In an
enouiring reforming temper; that she is
going to look into expenses, and call chill
dren ard servants to account. And II he
is discreet. he will not interfere nor ask
questions, for the plainly dressed woman
means business. which may fairly be call
ed Happiness making"
IL is a very useless thing to advise
young man as TO the girl he ought TO mar
~. Yet the marrying man may well take
dress into close consideration. He may,
for instance be sure that any girl who,
without appearing singular, can keep at
good distance from any prevailing fashion
will make a good wife. This, no; because II
Is proof Of her being quiet and modest,
but because IL gives evidence OF her pos
secsing an art of great Importance in do
mes.ic happiness-the art of making the
best of herself.
Most modes OF fashion carried TO ex-
fremes are ugly. II is a bunch here. and
q bunch there too much drapery in one
place. and not enough In another; health,
propriety. and beauty are slnned against,
without compromise. The girl. then. who
knows how to steer clear Of these evils
and yet not look singular, is an adroit
girl. who will make the best Of herself.
and Of all the circumstances she may en-
counter in life.
Women. as well as men, require variety
in dress in order to be happy, not only
for their moods but for their work,
Work is easier when We come to 1t with
q dress that makes II possible. Pleasure
IL not pleasure without the raimept OF
losfixifr Infn the ca ncfuary q good MO-