The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1900-06-10
THE SUMMER FASHIONS
PERIODS OF COLD WEATHER HAVE
MADE TRADE SLOW.
The Blouse or sailor Waist Coming
Into Prominence-How styles
Originate i'm Paris.

The season OF summer gowns drags along
rather listlessly. say the merchants. who
have stocked their departments with the
most fascinating thin goods for summer
prettier than ever before. The monotony is
only varied by an occasional squirt of bust
ness caused by one bright day. zone swal-
low doesn't make summer" by any
means, and with only half a dozen days
of weather which makes one think. "Oh,
need some shirt waists" or 81 must get
sailor and a pair Of summer corsets," or
81 simply cannot stand these high shoes
any longer" the distribution of summer
clothing is not as large as the correspond
ing period last year.
new style which has crept steadily into
fashion. almost unobserved. is the new
blouse, or sailor waist. Nearly every sum-
Iner gown has some tendency in that direc-
ton. with the exception OF the bolero
Sailor styles constitute the styles of to-
day, and are paraphrases Of the jacket
idea and are extremely fetching and cool
looking. The ''matelot collar in lace and
embroidery. plain linens. percales, piques
and other articles. has been adopted
These match the inside waist or adorn the
external blouse. and, at the same time,
give the lingerie effect, which is so popu-
lar The blouse construction which presents
the housekeeping, full-front appearance is
pretty in the princess effect gowns The
simple sailor effects in blue, caught with
their bright colored knots in front, are to
be worn by the younger element Inside
waists of wash fabrics, laces, heavy red
work affairs, are worn with white appliques
on the skirt to match. In the more elab-
crate creations exquisitely wrought laces,
velvet, chenille and embroidered articles
are employed to fashion bIouses in the mod
fled form. The favorite dresses for the
summer wear of the more elegant are of
course. silk and lace costumes. Foulards
and pongees form the basis of these
dresses, with lace as the over-trimming.
These gowns are very fashionable and
graceful, and will undoubtedly retain their
popularity, being beyond the pocketbook of
the ordinary wearers.
A rumor is ahoat to the effect that, in a
not very distant future. possibly in the fall,
an attempt will be made to revive the long
ago fashion of hoops. This, owing to pres
ent ideas. sounds rather astonishing, and
Il will probably amount TO nothing What
has probably given rise to the report. saws
one who has recently returned from Paris
Is that the newest models show skirts
mounted all round with the finest imag-
Unable gathers at the waist line conse-
quently displaying more fullness than those
now worn. Another reason is the return tC
favor of the long-pointed corsage. How
ever there is no likelihood that women
will drop the skirt of the moment and &c
70 the other extreme of hoops in a leap
II they are revived at all it will probably
only form one of the popular fashions and
will be only adopted by the few.
An Eastern writer of fashions says
Fashionable women's tailors are having 8
hard time with their customers over in
New York. who order gowns and ther
change their minds or corsets so they DOM
mt The trouble is, indeed, perplexing t
honest people. but let the autocrats OF
fashions insist on simpler designs and there
will be less anguish in carrying them out
The real difficulty is in the original model
that mass of complications, which demand.
endless patience to perfect Women 'whC
dress have been made exacting by th'
styles forced upon them by the great de
signers twice a year in the interest o.
manufacturers. On the whole, this cOnse
quent suffering is mutual. Unprinciplet
women who order dresses they can't OF
makers, with too elaborate simplicity Il
carry out, make null of the mt. The only
way 10 prevent this swindling of which
New York women tailors complain is [,
have contracts signed and sealed, or
money deposit, which will keep madam
memory green.
And this recalls the way fashion is bor1
IN the Paris ateliers. Ii is related tina
Worth. the greatest of all fashion makers
owed his superior success to his talent il
designing, and his tact in adapting oil
fashions TO modern taste. He was uniqu
in his way. No jeweled embroideries wer
required as now to give cachet to a toile
of his designing. touch of his sufficed L
give beauty even to ugliness, and that no
only TO the dress. but TO the wearer. 1t i
well-knOwn fact that he could transform
sallow complexion into thing of beaut,
by the mere addition of colored ribbon
Not until Worths day did this occur L
the mind of woman. He could conceal de
fOrmity, even a crooked back. 1t was
proverb that Worth never sent out an ugl
figure. Bad figures went to him, but the
vanished under his designs. Sometimes
when he did not feel inclined to design, n
would sit in a big armchair, surrounde
by all sorts OF materials and trimmings
laces, flowers. etc. and would call a man
neQUin. young girl OF exquisite figure,
model. in fact, and order the tryers-on an
cutters to drape and undraDe her accord
ing TO his direction, unth the desire
effect or some entirely new arrangement
was created under his eye. Then, wit
scribed the new fashion. that was TO go TN
world over, and be blindly followed for
year or more All the lesser dressmaker
,opied these inspirations. but IT was hi
ambition for them 10 be introduced by som
eader in the great world; but that Is a
I'D story. Now Worth is dead, and hi
disciples. without that inventive geniu!
must go 10 a crowd of hungry artists
iesign for them. Sometimes young, imae
native workgirl may be inspired TO dres
doll according TO an idea that she ma
lave evolved from dream She show
his 10 her master. and perhaps sells 1t fc
10 tt becomes the rage of the season
md the master makes a big lot OF none
iut OF the girls brains. Not all the ne
models. however, are at once accepted b
he fashionable world of Paris fashion
There is no aristocratic leader now
Paris and on the favorite actresses or II
lemi-monde are tried new FASHION, II
goes TO America, so much the better.
PICTURES OF SOUND.