The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-04-29
CORDOVA'S ROBEOF GLORY
Long Gone Romances of an Ancient
Caliph Capital.
GIories of n Trip over the Bridge
Tint Crosses the River Guada1-
quiyir-Intcresting Relics OF n
Forgotten MetropoIis-Rcmin ders
of Palaces Returned to Dust.

tween trains, getting only nurrleu sliiHPsSs
OF its crooked streets and splendid Mosque
These make grave mistake, for there is
no city in the world TO compare with Cor
dova in romantic and historic interest. On,
loses the best of Spanish tour by FOL
lowing too closely in beaten paths; be may
get his fill Of prominent features, but
misses altogether the true spirit of the
coantry-the mingled saver of romance and
antiquity. charming sloth and poetic ras-
cality which distinguishes Spain above any
other portion OF Europe. Cordova's mani
fold charms of mellowness and tranquility
grow upon the world-wearied traveller, I'M
til he finds It difficult to tear himself
avay. For the WORKOUT nerves and tired
brains of those who have been living the
high-pressure life of American cities It's
stiffness and solemnity act like cooling
poultice on an Inflammation; while the
semi-invaHd finds more benefit in the SIM
ple food and soft Andalucian air than n
all the nostrums of the medicos.
To be sure. there is a good deal TO an
nov one here in the slowness with when
the smallest affairs OF everyday are con-
ducted-the universal maxim being never
do TODAY ANYTHING that can possibly be
deferred till tomorrow-the mauana' that
never comes Nothing seems to surprise
and disgust these good Cordovans so much
as the vulgar promptitude and everlasting
hurry of the average Anglo Saxon. One
soon learns that 1t is no use trylng 10
change the customs Of a thousand years 10
III those of New York or Chicago and that
10 kick against the prieks of environment
only increases the delay. BY far the bet
Ter way is to possess ones soul in pa
fence. remembering that railway trains,
diIigencias and muleteers expect 10 wait
indefinitely. and that to keep business
engagement anywhere near the hour named
is 10 make the inevitable waiting longer
at the other end of the line.
In ones rambles around Cordova, he Is
continually coming upon new old OBJ
iects of interest, many of which are not
mentioned in any guide book. To get the
greatest entertainment out of one day one
should cross the Guadalaquivir early IN
the morning. on the picturesque BRUCE
that Octavius Caesar has the credit OF
building. but which is really the work OF
the Caliphs of Cordova: spend the not
midday hours in the marble forest of
the great Mosque, or the cool and odorous
Court of Oranges. and enjoy an evening
drive or promenade in one of the plaZas
The Cordovese are extremely proud OF
this quaint old bridge-and with abundant
reason. for there is not another like 1t
on the face of the earth. The arms of the
city, "a bridge placed on water. refers
to it. Never was queerer blending OF
Roman and Arabian styles than its SIX
teen irregular buttressed arches and huge
Moorish gateway leading through tower
which was once part Of the city walls
the ruins of Octavius Caesars bridge serv-
ing as a foundation for the superstructuIe
of the Caliphs, erected A D. 1l9. AT one
end Of il is the gypsy quarter, the haunt
of robbers. brigands and rascals of every
grade; at the other, the historic Castle
of Calahorca, memorable for its important
part in the siege of Cordova by Pedro OF
CASTLE. Close by, standing out conspic-
uously 10 the now shallow river, are the
ruins of some Moorish mills, with open
horseshoe arches and time-softened aZue-
los just beyond rises a colossal statue Of
St Raphael, the archangel, who is believed
10 be the especial protector of Cordova.
He assumed the high office on May T. 1878.
In a spiritual naturalization TO an obscure
priest named Andreas Roelas, in course
of which the angel announced his pur-
pose In these words, which are carved
upon the column: "Yo tie juro por Jesu
Cristo cruzifcado. Que SOY Rafael angel,
a quien Dios tiene puesto por guarda de
este ciudad.'
An Early Morning Panorama.
Nothing can be more entertaining than
the early morning scenes upon COrdova's
ancient bridge-the huge brown gateway
of the Arabs as an artistic background for
the groups of gaudily-dressed peasants
who have TO wait with their mules while
their burdens are being closely examined
by tax-collectors at the city barrier. An
equal stream Of mules and drivers, flowing
couniryward, becomes congested at the
gate-beasts kicking. struggling, and bray
ing: men. women and children shouting,
gesticulating. swearing. or singing; while
others improve the shining hour OF waiting
with the eveT-present and always consol
ing guitar. impromptu olios and fandangoes
accompanying the music. Beggers and Grip
pies are out in force. wrapped in their
ragged. snuff-coloTed cloaks; and lottery
ticket vendors too as no Spanish scene is
complete without them. Priests under
shovel hats and monks in cowls and
hempen girdles pass to and fro; and now
and then some rural knight comes gallop-
ing in his servant following close and his
faithful Sancho Panza. from La Nancha,
which lies just beyond the nearest range
of hills Particularly noticeable as part
Of the varied panorama, are companies OF
young priests and students from the con-
vents, with their flowing black gowns and
broad brimmed black hats. turned up at
both sides like sugaT-scoop. Some Of the
students are intent upon their lessons,
coming them aloud even in the streets,
others assuming blase. man-of-the-world
airs, smoking their cigarettes and chuck
ing pretty peasant girls under the chin.
Not least among the sights Of Cordova
are the time-mellowed walls that surround
tia curious combination Of Gothic and
Roman stone-work. patched upon the
Tapia or indestructible cement, OF tue
Moors The walls enclose the same area
now as in the day of the city''s greatest
prosperity, so that the abodes of less than
forty thousand people now straggle over
space that once accommodated million.
The vacant spots thus left are either en-
numbered with ruins or are laid out in
gardens in which fruit and flowers Of the
tropics flourish unprotected in the open air.
beside productions of the temperate zone
apples, peaches, pears, corn, and potatoes
coming to perfection. as well as oranges,
figs and bananas But the royal palms are
the special glory Of Cordova. Set thickly
in the gardens and plazas, Haunting their
green plumes far above the housetops. they
are the first objects that attract the ap-
preaching travellers attention and the last
that he sees when taking a backward look
on his departing journey, and, next TO the
wonderful Mosque. they linger longest and
most pleasantly in his memory. II Is said
that all the palms in Spain are descended
from one which Add ur-rahman l. brought
with him from the banks Of the Euphrates
and planted in the garden of his Cordovan
palace. The gentle Arabian composed a
sadly-sweet poem TO that palm-like him
self and exile-which is yet sung and re-
cited in Spain, akin TO that other hOmesick
wall, la Golondrona," OF Mexico.
Cordova is indebted to the Arabs for
the fine aqueduct that brings pure cold
mountain water across a deep valley to a
hundred public fountains. These reservoirs