davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-08

The place par excellence for studying
summer fashions is the Grand Stand at As
cot on Cup Day. for on that occasion all the
daintiest creations OF the most eminent
Partisan and London costumers are dis
played to the greatest advantage. and moth
ing newer will be brought out in light sum-
mer garments until next year, says the
London Lady. The lovely Ascot dresses
will therefore be studied with interest by
any one who is about to order dainty
frocks for garden parties and other sum
mer fetes.
A charming gown OF semftreGsparent bis
cult colored wolfe is very stylish There are
transparent appliques of ecru lace over IL.
and & band of insertion at the bottom,
through which transparent lining of pastel
pink giacs silk is seen. The yoke and the
tops of the sleeves are formed of rows Of
ecru guipure lace insertion sewn together.
and lined with pink and the sleeves which
only just turn the elbows, have double paffs
of creamy chiffon extending to the wrist,
where they are gathered into band Of
lace insertion. The wolfe is gathered several
times at the waist, so as to form kind
Of deep belt, and in the center there IS a
narrow folded band of pastel pink panne
velvet. with a paste buckle at the back.
A ruffle of creamy chiffon with long ends
IS worn round the neck. and the toilette is
trimmed with folds OF biscuit-colored quick
silver silk, black velvet. and clusters Of
pale pink roses and foliage.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-08

A gown OF the palest leaf green auicksil-
yer silk is dainty and lovely. The skirt Is
finely tucked from the waist downwards TO
the knee. and below this Ii is allowed to
stand out Ike deep frili. with a full ruch-
ing of cream-coiored lace at the edge. The
draperics on the bodice and the tops OF the
sleeves are laid in fiat box pleats. with rows
of transparent lace insertions In between,
through which vest of soft ivory satin Is
seen. and the collar and sash with long
fringed ends are of palest pink soft satin
ribbon. The becoming hat which Is worn
with this is of Tuscan straw, trimmed with
narrow black ribbon velvet and pale pink
roses and foliage. The underskirt Is Of soft
white satin, and the parasol Is of pale rose
colored silk to match the sash.
Another dress is made OF pastel-blue peau
de sole in that lovely tint which Is just a
trifie darker than the hedge-sparrow's egg.
The long tunic and the bolero are orna-
mented with wide insertions OF beautiful old
lace. and the underskirt of pastel-blue quick
silver silk. very much befrilled at the bot
tom. has deep accordion-pleated frill Of
chiffon Of the same color. edged with mar
row ruchings. On the left side OF the bodice
is a large rosette of blue chiffon with long
ends. The to1ue is of blue mirror velvet
with large -osettes of chiffon. and the para
sol is made OF peau de sole 10 match the
tunic. with rows of fine tucktng at the edge.
An exquisite gown is Of ivory-whte NOUS
seine de sole. which is deliberately tucked
on the bodice, sleeves and skirt. and is
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-08
In the Afternoon Dainty Colored Organizes Are Worn.
London Ideas i'm Dress.

painted by hand in Q bold orchid de.ign on
the frill. which IL formed by letting loose
the tucks that trim the upper part of the
skirt. This gown Is mounted on a founda-
tion OF pale maize-colored quicksilver silk.
with accordion-pleated pinked-out frills at
the bottom of the skirt. and the yoke and
the tabs on the sleeves are painted by hand
to correspond with the skirt. The rufffe is
of black tulle. and the toQue Is composed of
shaded tea roses. from the palest cream 10
an orange tint, and has wired bows of black
ribbon velvet and wings of creamy lace
standing up on the left side. The parasol Is
Of maize-colored silk.
Still another beautiful gown is made of
ivory-white linen Imperatrice, with trans
parent insertions Of creamy Luxeuil lace In
a prettily arranged design which forms long
points up the center OF the skirt at the back
to meet the lace on the back of the bodice.
The gown is mounted on soft white Oriental
satin. which is seen through the open part
of the design on the lace. and also through
the trellis pattern on the yoke. which Is
formed Of turquoise-blue ribbon velvet. The
light crinoline hat is trimmed with tur-
quoise-blue ostrich feathers and large ro-
settles of cream-colored tuile.
A dainty frock of white book muslin. Or
nameDted with transparent Insertions and
edgings Of creamy lace, is shown on the ex-
IRENE right: II is mounted on pale peach
coIored glace silk. and is worn with pic
ture hat Of white crinoline, trimmed with
the palest rose-pink.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-08

dresses and wraps. underwear and mil
hnery that her youngest daughter may
wear.
The English women residents here do
not foster the spirit Of vanity in their
little folks, and when they are preparing
their little daughters summer wardrobe
they 60 to an establishment renowned
for Its children's outfits and purchase
stout cloth frocks, sailor hats and shirt
waists. Simplicity rules In the dressing
Of English children. The little French
girls are like bouquets Of flowers in their
light and airy summer riggings. The
American mother In Paris profits by
both the example Of the English and
French mammas and strikes q happy
medium In the dressing of her children.
The result ia that the American colony
has the best-dressed little folks In Paris.
Such an attractive frock for afternoon
wear was shown me the other day. 1t
was Of pale pink Organdie, over a taffeta
slip Of the same shade. About the bot
tom went a frill of fine white lace, in
effect much like the old-fashioned
thread lace. There We're two strips OF
insertion, one put just above the lace
and between the strips there were five
tiny tucks, but none above the top row
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-08
THE POPULAR GIRL
AND FASCINATING MAN.
Something About Z Few Of the
Component Parts of Their
Secret.

WRITTEN FOR THE SUNDAY REPUBLIC.
You can study them best when they arc
among strangers-the popular girl and the
fascinating man. That is. you may learn
q bit about the secret OF what makes them
what they are when they are away from
home-folk and old friends that have learned
their real worth, and SO love them for that.
Where you or I are puzzled is when girl
appears at, say, some crowded summer ho-
tel. and In q few hours or days at most.
has every one ready to do a thousand nice
little things for her. and take real pleasure
I'm the doing of them. And then. when the
|, fascinating man comes along, and you find
Sxourself. among Others admiring him i'm
Anensely. you stop while and ask yourself,
IVhy is it?" He Is not especially hand
sofpe-she fascinating man have in mind
In fseIdom sn Adonis II he was an
example of manly perfection in appear
Anc{, why, then you would let 1t pass as
q matter Of fact that he was fascinating.
and look no deeper for the reason
OF course. you must have met the popular
girl At some time, and. maybe. you have
0uvied her. Not only were the men pleased
10 b her sver-ready escorts. but the wom-
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-08

beautiful girl. The old-fashioned popular
girl was said to have charm OF man
ner." and when all Is said and done. per-
better than this.
1t isn't a sign Of vanity for a girl to wish
to be popular.
The popular girl has knack in entertain
Ing that It Is we'll worth the while Of nther
kiris to study. With one or a dozen people
1t Is all the same she divides her attention
% charmingly. She helps out the easily en-
barrassed one when he CT she is trying to
relate story, by a smile or dn encours G.
ing little nod OF the head. And the fa,ci-
mating MAXWELL. there are many common
place little things that form the mystery
OF his charm. In the first place. one recog-
nizes instinctively the strength of charac-
ter Of the fascinating man. You may even
know him to be a severe critic. but for
that very reason you care the more to make
an especial effort to please him. The fasci-
mating man Is always gallant. but not OBJ
trusively So The fascinating man. you y i'll
find. should you become well enough &C.
auainted to exchange condolences, entertains
high ideals. His ideal woman in never of
the butterfly type. and. therefore, when he
IL seriously attracted. you may be reason
ably certain his wife will be quite as charm
Ing a. he has always been among his
friends and the world in general.
Men are seldom complimented by being
called fascinating. and SO women whisper
It Just among themselves when they have
mae ene Siseevesy. 4 man has Q ssores
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-08

notion that II Is meant that he Is more or
less Of q f!rt when such n term is applied
to him. and have only used 1t. will ad-
nit, for the want of a better.
Sometimes the popular girl and the fas-
cinating man meet. Then all of us who
know them are interested spectators. We
know, Of course, from the first how 1t
will end but We watch with interest tho
progress of affairs. The old lady who Is
not above q bit of gossip and takes her seat
IN a certain place on the porch every morn
ing and evening retails to the balance OF
us who are not above listening how furious
ly the popular girl is flirting. But the truth
of the matter Is she Is a wise maiden not
to let the rest of her admirers know just
how much she is interested In the fascinat-
ing man, And trust to 1t that the latter
gentleman is quite conscious Of the i'm
preston he has made and is willing to bide
his time.
And his time comes when the summer is
at an end and the popular girl starts for
home with her boxes and trunks, and arms
full OF "cat-tails' that she has gathered
from the edge of a nearby pond. and her
doting mamma and perhaps a younger
brother or two. 1t is then the fascinating
mans time to arise early to see her of. and
his manner of proprietorship fairly makes
the other men green There Is coming. he
knows. a long winter in town. and having.
like a wise man. won the mamma's esteem.
he Is almost certain he will be welcome
caller.
Yes. the popular girl never even intrudes
her romance.
have fancied the meeting of the popular
girl and the fascinating man as taking place
In the summer holiday time. And perhaps
this is Just the very best time to discover
them and become acquainted with them.
And. any way. 1 always like bright and
leafy setting for a romance, don't you?
Do not sit deWn and weep and lament my
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-08

ing white stockings. The small boy
wears half-length hose, and little black
slippers or ties. The little girl wears
low patent-leather shoes, and she also
wears with her white and gingham
frocks, red stockings and ties of Russian
leather. Brown shoes and stockings are
devoted only to outing purposes. For
country wear nothing can quite equal
the brown shoes and stockings. and the
little folks wardrobes are not complete
without them.
White pique is made great use OF In
dressing the children. Blouse suits with
wide collars are trimmed with bands OF
turquoise blue duck, or dark blue duck.
dotted with white. Little short box
coats and long pleated coats are made
Of white pique and little double capeS
scalloped all around and finished with
buttOn-hOle stitch. Kills and jackets
are made for the tiny boy, and very
sweet and fresh he looks dressed in this
way with white socks and black shoes,
a broad-rimmed, white straw sailor hat
on his head. White yachting caps are
also worn by the boy not yet old enough
for the dignity Of trousers.
Among the gowns for grown-up folk
one hardly sees anything now but the
| cool and airy ones. Every one is in
quest of the costume that will look sum-
| merry and count for next to nothing in
weight and warmth. Printed muslins
! ere in all sorts Of pretty cOlorings and
, tigurings. a good deal more tucking
than ruftiing is used on them, and the
| fichu and scarf effect Oh bOdces pre-
. walls. The tichu permits of the house
gown being left open at the neck, and
| when worn with Out-of-door frocks there
is nothing more covering the neck than
a lace yoke and unliued collar. A pref
ty idea in dresses for young women is
the deep. square yoke with scarf
formed of wide lace caught just at the
back and brought around close up un-
der the arms, tying in knot, with ends,
just at the front. An arrangement Of
the fichu that is liked is to draw it
| around the shoulders giving the effect
| Of the wearer'S shoulders emerging from
the bodice. MARIE ARMSTRONG.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-08

Both small boys and girls are wear
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-08

en- likewise were glad to have her bring her
fancy work to the porch in the morning
and chat with them.
A girl has asked me what, in my humble
opinion, is the secret of that charming and
delightful popularity that some girls enjoy
and which others may strive for In vain.
Let me tell you, my dear girl, that tho
main explanation lies in the fact of the alb
sencs of "a chip on her shoulder" You
never find the popular girl looking for
Sights and snubs. and she Is never guilty
Of administering them. either. And while
you are certain that she has opinions Of her
own-for the popular girl is always ono
Of individuaity-she does not thrust them
upon you. and you feel while talking to her
that she is willing to allow you to think as
you please; privilege che claims for her
self.
The popular girl Is restful In manner and
soft of speech, and she Is sympathetic. You
never find popular girl, as popular as
count it desirable to be popular. OF tho
noisy and mannish sort. would beg Of the
girl that 1 love that she will never. never.
try to be good fellow" girl. Her
popularity. won in this way. has a very
narrow scope. Even the men who like to
call her their ''chum'' usually grow tired Of
her: or. at any rate. they will pick out for
wives the most demure little maids. Then
the good fellow" Is expected to play Just
the good fellow part all through those
romances. and II she is sometimes weary
of her role. is SO weary that she cries. the
crying is done in secret. and nobody knows.
The popular gil y not nsoessarty. thA
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-08

n..here is slight difference in the wording
of garden party Invitations. The majority
of people still adhere to the ,tereotyped
form of AT home TO ~: some few make
the invitations moro elaborate by request
ing the pleasure of their guests company
at "a garden party" on such-and-such q
date. day and hour: again. others add gar
den party in the corner of the at homo
cards. but In all cases when large functions
are given the full sized at homo cards are
used; on all other occasions when the guests
number under hundred. the ordinary or
average size cards are in use. 1t is Gus
tomary to put the names of husbands and
wives and the names of the daughters on
the same cards. separate cards being sent 10
the son or sons of a family in each case.
The words land party are not put on the
cards as in the country, as they would have
no significance in town. Where an invita-
tion includes two members of family. and
one only is able to attend. Ii is not unusual
for that one to take q relative In place of
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-08

the one invited. and 20 mention this when
introducing the stranger to the hostess.
compaHonship being desirable on these
occasions. and this Is generally understood.
Garden party amusements are wide
question. and are regarded under various
aspects. Cp-to-date hostesses consider that
some novelty in the amusement line should
be forthcoming. and they endeavor to secure
1t. Failing something new and original. .
band Is generally resorted to as being likely
to give pleasure to the greatest number, and
to sit under the trees a sultry afternoon
and listen TO tho strains is a welcome
change from the crowded thoroughfares Of
town for an hour or SO.
AT town garden parties refreshments are
invariably served out of doors. actually in
the open air, which Is far preferable to tho
hot atmosphere engendered in tents Of all
kinds. The refreshments are usually served
on different tables. On one long table ices
and Strawberries; on another claret cup and
other feed drinks, also dollhouse fruits,
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-08
FOULARDS AND LACE.

We are very faithful to foulards this year
and are employing them for tea gowns a.
well as for day dresses. For the former
they open In front to display an underskirt
OF white silk muslin. and have rosettes OF
this thin material on either side. from
which descend stole erds of the same soft
fabric to the foot-a good style that Is very
becoming to both stout and slender figures
In foulards worn in the daytime We are re-
turning to the fashion OF the very early
sixties full-belted bodices and plain skirts.
There is nothing prettier. especially when
accompanied by an old-fashioned square
lace collar. forming revers in the 'front.'
A pretty novelty is a loose sacQue coat OF
lace falling below the hips, fastened Just
beneath the wide revers with one diamond
agraffe. and sufficiently transparent for the
slender figure to be seen beneath.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-08

! of insertion. The deep yoke was cut out
In points and edged with insertion and a
friil. The sleeves were in puff above
the elbow. Cream satin ribbon tied the
sleeves and formed bows at each side Of
the yoke, with steamers falling TO the
bottom Of the frock.
The center sketch shows two smart
little suits for outing and travelling
wear.
The plaid serges are especially liked
for children's wear. The one that is
illustrated was Of bright red and dark
blue, the red predominating. The skirt
was gored with the fullness at the back
laid In two pleats. The belt and other
finishes are, formed Of red braid. The
blouse opens over a vest Of plain red
corded serge. Ii will be noticed that
this dress is in the simplest possible
design, and yet the general style is so
effective.
Another childish wool frock Is Of a
subdued cherry-red cloth. The jacket
buttons over to one side with q row OF
smOked-pearl buttons. The broad revers
are trimmed with black and white
braid.
One Of the cunning dust cloaks that
children are wearing is also shown in a
sketch. This was uniined and of light
fawn-colored taffeta. Rows of narrow
brown silk braid. of a darker shade
than the coat. form the simple trimming.
The coat is in double box-pleats all
around, and the details of the novel yoke
can easily be seen. Very smart for lit
tie people are such coats Of dust colored
taffeta. They protect the frocks and are
needed when the day is cool, for both
riding and walking.
As to the little girls millinery. nothing
could be more cunning. and certainly
| great care has been exercised in de
signing suitable hats and bonnets. There
is a quaintness and picturesqueness that
is particularly pleasing.
While Leghorns are the most popular
Of all straws for children's dressy Wear.
One trimmed with white and yellow
marguerites may be worn by 4 girl from
q TO L..
A curious little cap for the baby is of
soft white silk, trimmed all over with
tiny frills Of chiffon. ROssettes of
| chiffon, in graduated sizes, trim the cap
around the face. the large rOset,e ut the
top being ornamented with tiny forget.
me-nots. Soft white satin strings tie
the cap under the chin, the bow being
made ut one side, which is comfortable
arrangement for miss baby.
Hats made of white muslin and India
linen are having a great vogue. Tit st
are made in all colors, but white has
the preference. The brims are starched
| and Il wire run around the edge TO KEEP
them in some sort of shape. They
launder perfectly and therefore form the
| most practical and satisfactory, as well
| as becoming, summer everyday head
gear for the small girl Around the
crown Of the white ones wide, sof,
| colored ribbons are tied.
| Roth small hoyS and Cirla arc u-o, =
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-08
MOLTKE WAS PREPARED.

From Golfers Weekly.
On the memorable occasion Of the declara-
ton of war by France in 1870. the stan
officer who had received the telegram from
Ems gal!oped wildly with the news TO the
house OF Count Moltke. and. dismounting.
rushed excitedly into the study of the Gen.
eral-in-Chief. Moltke first offered him q
cigar. then opened 4 drawer In his writing
desk and took therefrom a neatly arranged
bundle Of official letters and kilograms. re-
marking, as he handed them to the Adj
jutant, Take these to the military tele-
graph office and have them dispatched!'
This simple act put the vast machinery Of
the German War Office In motion, 80 that
the entire army was modified some days
before the French could realize their hope
less state Of unpreparednesA
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-08

grapes. peaches. etc.; and on the longest Of
the tables tea. coffee and all the small con-
fect!onery, cakes and sandwiches, appear.
In some houses a different plan is followed.
especially when the ground-1oor rooms are
easy Of access through French windows, or
through a large entrance hall communicate
ing with the sardens-that Is to say. a dou-
BILE arrangement for refreshments Ia made.
Tea, coffee. ices. fruit. Strawberries and
cream. and tho attendant delicacies in the
way OF ornamental cakes AID sweets. are
given in q dining room or library as well as
out Of doors. or the tea and coffee are
served in the house. and Strawberries and
cream. together with other fruit. Ices and
Iced drinks. are given out Of doors, served
on large and small tables When possible
small tables placed In the vicinity of the
larger ones TO accommodate parties Of four.
And again. when a tent Is used on account
Of doubtful weather. these small tables ara
a great convenience In the matter OF serv-
ing and OF comfort to the guests.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-08
Two title Americans Have Smart Travelling Dresses

dear girl. because you fancy you are NOT
popular and never can be. Just don an
amiable disposition with that pretty blue or
pink muslin frock and laugh so 1.-The world
will laugh with YOU" 1 think you VIII be
surprised how glad and willing 1t is TO do
SO. too. MARGARET HANNIS.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-08

speciai Corespondsncs It The Sunday Republic
Paris, June 20-There is q fashion
world Of little folks Just as there is Of
folks older, and the makers of iiliput!an
costumes say that 1t is no easy task to
cater to the wee lassies.
Children's- clothes In Paris are always
fascinating in their daintiness. There is
such chance In their little garments for
the seamstress to do some Of her pref
test and finest work. I am certain any
American mamma would be delighted
with a tour Of the Paris shops this sum-
mer to make note Of the dear little
Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1900-10-14
AN AUDAC1OUS YoUNGSTER.

By Theft and Forgery He Was Able
to Cut a Wide Swarth for q
While.
SAN FRANCISCO, October 12.-Bert
Waite. 1S years old, who was arrested
at Upper Lake on Wednesday, charged
with forgery by the president of the
First National Bank of Berkeley, has
confessed, it is stated, to having rob-
bed the United States Express Com
pany at Ravenna, o. Early in August
Waite, who was aching as agent of the
express company at Rayenna, says he
~absconded with over Sc, 600 in money
and bank notes. The latter. amounting
to $4,000, were in the sheet, having
been shipped from the Treasury De-
partment at Washington to~the Second
National Bank of Ravenna. He arriv-
ed here September IA and began a
acreer of dissipation. AS his funds de-
creased he moved to Berkeley, where,
with his remaining capital, he became
a hale fellow with the university stu
dents. When his money gave out,
Waite says he was Obliged to raise
more on a book of express orers in his
possession. One of these orders came
back to the First National Bank Of
Berkeley and led to his arrest.