The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-06-25

| brass ornaments. They shout and call to
] each other until a bargain Is concluded,
and then II the customer be an important
| one. the merchant Joins him later at one
of the small cafes In the narrow winding
streets. and there they drink together.
Twice a week the museum is open near
the Drama F1oryanska is an old palace
restored by viollet-le-Duc- The collection
OF pictures and objects of art. which for a
century has belonged to the Czartoryski
', family, was given to Cracow a few years
ago by Prince Ladislas, who married a
princess of Orleans. There are several
treasures among the paintings: portrait
by Raphael OF the Duke Of Urbino. pic
ture by Leonardo da Vinci OF young girl
with a white rabbit in her arms. land
scape by Rembrandt, another by Vatican.
a charming study by Van Dyke OF Lady
Pembroke, and one of a young girl; por-
traits by Holbein OF Sir Thomas More and
Anne Boleyn, ten miniature Licensees Of
the Polish kings oy Cranach, and series
O.. anonymous works by the early Italian
painters-in all two rooms. well lighted.
quiet, agreeable, and with the undisturbed
atmosphere OF a private collection.
The rest of the palace is stored with
Renaissance embroideries and tapestries,
with enamels. carved worries and corals.
orfevYerie cabinets and cases of inlaid
woods and metals and an historic museum
of Polish uniforms and armor, OF saddles
and trappings, richly set in gold and Jew
els. and OF swords with cleaning sheaths
OF diamonds, all trophies OF vanished
power.
Twilight in the Ghetto.
Toward twilight the Ghetto is crowded
The close of the day brings the Jews into
the streets from their miserable homes
Their faces are, many Of them. superb
fine olive skins. delicate. almost trans
parent arched noses, thin dropping lips.
narrow foreheads, and high cheek bones;
both men and boys alike with a long curl
over either ear. They are pure types,
dreamers jealous in the observance Of
their creed and traditions, poor, and proud.
Frequently their yearly income does not
exceed $50, yet on fete days every Jew in
the Kazimierz wears long satin cloak to
his heels and a velvet hat trimmed with
fur.
At the time Of their marriage the women
cut off their hair and replace it with an
ugly brown wig, sometimes made Of brown
satin with white embroidered part, but
generally Of coarse, curly imitation hair.
Seated before their doors in the Mostowa.
or principal street, they visit and chat
until darkness drives them back into the
CTOWutu teucmcut uUuSto Aucy uot .
silent people; though Cracow is poor in
business resources and their lives inactive
and depressing, they are constantly talk
ing together, exchanging ideas in the
rhythmic, melodious language Of the Poles.
1t was over five hundred years ago that
Casimir the Great founded the university
which made Cracow centre Of learning in
all Europe, and which keeps 1t still the
most important residence in conquered Po-
lard. German or Russian is taught every
where in the schools and colleges. and
Polish is prohibited, except at Cracow,
whore all patriotic Poles have settled. The
population, which at one time was less than
six thousand, is now over one hundred
thousand. The people are hospitable, and
certain families entertain constantly. The
language spoken in society is French, and
extreme courtesy is usual even among the
lower classes, who habituaty kiss the hands
Of those they serve, murmuring, 81 kiss
your hands, kiss your hands"
At the end Of the Wolska, a street lead
ing from the Rynek, there is a strange ir- |
regular grass-grown mound Of earth several |
hundred feet high. which the Poles have |
made in memory of Kosciuszko. He died
in Switzerland with the dread that he !
would be buried in a strange land When |
his body was brought to Cracow every Pole,
whom the love Of country made grateful to
Kosciuszko, brought handful or an arm
full of Polish earth to throw upon the pa
triot's breast.
The visit to this increasing monument |