Saint Mary's beacon. [volume] (Leonard Town, Md.) 1867-1983, 1900-09-27
Saint Yarg's Beacon.
EXPOSITION LETTER.

cadence OF French ART az eXprcsseu
in literature or painting, no sign
thereof may be seen in the form
which refers to the designing Of
costumes. In dressmaking as well
as in cooking, the French are still
prominent. The gowns displayed
at the present exhibition draw such
crowds of female worshippers, that
they frequently have to stand in
line for hours, waiting a chance to
approach the glass cases. In the
invention of new shades and the
combination of old ones, in the dis
covery of novel effects in draperies
and outlines, the Parisians have
long been famous and in these
cases may be seen illustrations OF
their best productions, as well as
details which indicate what the
styles Of the coming season will be.
The French dressmakers approach
an embryo costume with serious
ness and even reverence, and the
result seems to justify their attitude.
There are not a few novelties in
the exposition. One Of the coutu-
riers famous for making Partisan
women the prettiest dolls in the
world, has refused to use wax fig
ures on which to display his crea-
tions. They are too pink and
white, he thinks, and they carry
the gowns too much like statues,
with no sign OF life. lie has sub
stituted terra Gotta figures, the eff
feet of which is surprising at first,
but when one gets used to it, the
originality Of the idea is very pleas.
ing.
One of these models is arranged
in an adoption of the Greeian style
to present modes. The material is al
soanovelty, something between Chi
ma Grape and satin, with all the alri-
ness of the former and the sheen
OF the latter, the color varying into
a dozen shades as the light falls on
the goods. The drapery is some.
thing on the order Of the ancient
peplum and the silk lies in folds
graceful and light enough to salts
fly the most exacting coquette. a
fine embroidery in gold and silver
edges a guipure insertion which
outlines the bottom Of the tunic
and tho drapery Of the corsago.
A new shade of terra Gotta is
show in ball gown made Of nous
seine de sole, the skirt caught up
here and there with punches Of
olematis of uncertain color-"like
old pastels which are dying Of soil
tude and yet smile at the future, !"
exclaimed an enthusiastic French
woman who was studying it, Over
all is a delicate, almost imporcopti-
BILE network of dead gold,
In contrast with the Greek cos
tumo is a perfect reproduction OF a
Louis XVI toilette, in white tuile
over satin, with scattered silver
sprangIes that seem. like rays Of
light on snow. The waist has q
long, pointed, slender effect, as If
made for one OF the dainty mar
quieses who helped to make the age
picturesque. A hounce OF rare and
precious lace, yellowcd by time,
forms paniers over the hips and
falling in the back, makes doub.
10 train over the satin. The artist
who designed the costume has
strewn velvet roses, in natural col
ors, on the lace, aud the combina-
ton draws forth sighs of rapture
from the women who surround the
glass cases.
Another costume in something
the same style is in alencon lace,
with rows of insertion Of guipure ;
the charm Of this lies in the con-
trast of the virgin white with the
white shaded with amber. Scatter
cd loosely over the whole dress
are velvet peoples, and in the back
is a long train of lotus green velvet,
expanding in ample folds, like the
mantle Of fairy queen.
Among dresses more suitable for
day time, garden party costume
in white batiste, with shadings Of
rose, is notable. The bolero is en- :
broidered with pink flowers, and
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