The Saint Paul globe., 1900-11-04

with a thick roll Of Persian lamb, and
the same fur trims the coat in wavy
bias lines. The sleeves are quite tight
and end over the wrist in a very deep
pointed cuff, quite contrary to the pre-
vailing sale of the so-called cavalier"
sleeve, with its turn-back cuff and un-
dersleeve.
Additional beauty is lent by deep re-
veres of black velvet edged with a deep
hem of stitched blue gray cloth and the
three huge buttons of flligree silver,
which effect the closing. A noticeable
feature is the stitched strap of cloth
which holds the collar in shape at the
back. "A plain black astrachan muff
accompanies the coat, and the turban
Which matches it has a short, square
crown covered with Persian lamb and
a brim overlaid with folds of black vel
vet holding two black and gray fancy
wings at one side
Another stylish model is exhibited by
Worth, and has all. the latest features
which fashion has revived from h:stori-
cal costume perioos. This coat is very
long-so long, in fact, that it completely
hides the dress skirt 1t consists of
golden brown, satin faced cloth and is
A1ltlOS LULA ALL Sly Iie1FIi1S NI1piC
postillion cape of that period, as weIl
as the double high turned down collar,
the real lace jabot and the cavalier
sleeves, with undersIeeves Of velvet of
tht same shade. The simple garniture
consists of a stitched strap of the cloth
which encircles the capes and collars and
extends around the hem and across the
double breasted front, which closes with
four rich gold buttons. The second turn
ed over collar is also of brown velvet,
and the accompanying hat is of the large
brimmed picture" variety of brown vel
vet, with the crown encircIed with
deep band of gold galloon and trimmed
with several waving brown plumes.
Yokes are a prevailing feature Of the
new Empire coats, and they are all
more or less elaborate, some being dec
GRATED with stitchings, others with stitch
ed strappings and others again composed
of rows of deep bands of cloth, one over
tapping the other and encircIing the fig
ure, and reyeres are apparent on all. III
some instances the coat is shaped by
means Of vertical tucks, stitched to
certain depth below which the fullness
is released and forms the necessary fare.
A handsome coat of chalk-white cloth
shows these characteristics. The yoke
is rounded in. front and back and fin
ished with stitched straps of cloth shaped
to follow the same rounded lines Below
tDe YOKE the coat SklrL lOrInS SlQe QleatS
stitched down and finished with en-
broidered darts Of white silk at the front
where the cloth is released. A stitched
white cloth strapping encircles the three
quarter length hem, and, forming short
scallops, extends along the front, where
the coat is closed by means of large jew
eied buttons. The sleeves are fitted into
the armholes by means of darts and have
the fashionable cuff and undersleeve, the
latter being of white. velvet embroidered
with gold. The stock collar is doubled
and turns over, the upper part being of
gold-embroidered velvet
Length of skirts IS obligatory with these
three-quarter length coats, and for sepa-
rate skirts, which are again evident since
separate blouses are again extensively
worn, the black velvet skirt Is considered
the most elegant. It is never trimmed.
though the long fare is affected by a
deepshaped serpentine ruffle when the
skirt is not absolutely plain, and cut with
many cores tlaring considerably below
the hem. This skirt, though much covet-
ed, will naturally be within the reach