The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-16
COMING HATS AND GOWNS
If Your Face Is Slender Wear the
Holbein Toque.
The Pattern Is just From Paris and
bids Fair to Lead in Popular Fa-
,ish Fabric-The Attempt to Intro
duce the oVerslsirt Has Failed.

Every Gay we touch more nearly to
autGmnal actualities in dress. and on,
mCdiste who is determined to lead a!
the rest is making fne show Of u
Holbein toque. She mas them direct lro !
Paris. where she says successful test
has been made of the snail hat. which
will still overhang its wearer's face. TPi
the fiat Holbein VIII do. and il is small
light affair The one drawback to it.
universal acceptance is the undeniaLls
fact that il becomes only the wo 'IlI
with slender face If. however. it Is
accepted as an actual fashion. the bread
faced women will put their notions o.
taste into their pockets and wear the Hat
cap steadily and bravely.
Nest fattering is the task of contsrn-
plating some OF the new fabrics put tor;h
for our winter wardrobes. First and
foremost. in every possible shade. axe
the covert goods that for durability de-
serve every womans first consideration.
They are beautiful. too. in warm tones u
green. Besides these in solid cClois are
shot-coyer:s of silver grey turning a fine
autumn hay red and dark blue with 10
let tones.
Scotland sends more admirable new
wool mixture called moor cloth. Its col
orings are supposed to echo tne soft
tones of the moor's vegetation, aud the
texture is truly delicious to the tou n
SO soft and supple. The finer French
cloths are at hand and most OF them
are sumptuously embroidered Some of
the robes come in boxes with lines of
needlework between furrcws of tucks, or
with bands, all tucked and embroidered
TO apply to the gown.
Walking costumes from both London
and Paris are made with straight skirts,
without overdress of any sort of double
skirt OF drapery. Some graceful gored
models are presented but the majority of
the cloth models are CT new circular
cut in one piece.
Bolero and Eton jackets cannot be driv-
en- cut, Though little basque bodices and
short, hip-lcnGth jackets in modified
Louis XIV style have been introduced
tentatively.
Some very pretty and simple travelling
dresses have been brought cut in serges
and cheyiots in dark, rich blues and in
fawn. One, in fawn-colored cloth, has
long oyedress, stitched at the edges and
fastened with small round smoked pearl
buttons. The underskirt has a panel of
white serge stitched with lawn, and the
tuTned-back cuffs end shaped waistband
aTe also of white with fswa silk stitching
The bodice has collal of drawn white
satin covered with white lace a cascade
of lace appears in froLt and frills OF lace
hang out of the sleeves. The drapery of
the bSdice is carried TO tie left and fas-
tened with a big rosette of brown velvet.
Utility skirts of the rainy day or "ez-
position" type are numerous. Some of
them have hip pockets buttoning with a
flap. The smartest costume OF this sort
yet shown is of dark clue serge with
band Of black velvet finishing the bottom
OF the skirt the bodice is an Elton jacket
strapped with velvet and made chic with
touches of scarlet serge Ii fastens with
gold buttons and there is a shaped waist
belt of scarlet.
Flannel waists are already in the market
and are far more elaborate than their
cousins Of last year. To the staple plain
and dotted hannels in all colors are adj
ded figured and embroidered flannels which
lend themselves to far greater variety OF
making. Castor tones and greens are IA
YoIife coiors and warm reds are shown in
profusion.
Paris paper has lately published an
amusing interview with several of the fore
most men milliners of the Palais du Cos
tune at the Exposition One authority is
indignant at the lack OF extravaganza dis
played by women of the present day. and
bitterly ls-ents the fact that the woman
who spends as much as $50 900 year for
her frocks is few and far between. he
Furthermore expresses his disapproval of
the tailor-made costume. which. he says,
is much the same in all countries Also
that il is inexpensive and not devoid Of
grace. because It reveals the figure "PTet-
~ women put up with it and ugly ones
adopt II also. because they think they ere
pretty. The only people to whom il is dis
agreeable are the great dressmakcrs, whose
artistic instincts it sights"
New features fer early autumn are the
Directoire costumes. which are TO be
much in vogue. Louis XIV styles with all
their gorgeous accessories and with all
this rumors are in the air of a sudden
reversal TO simplicity. And at this
many will rejoice, although II We only
knew, elegant simplicity is the most ex-
pensive luxury. 4 dress must be well
fitting indeed and worn with that in
describahle "air" 20 outshine its elabo-
rately burdened rivals. covered with
wreath Of trimming.
And what a season for trimming it has
been,
We are still assured that lace is to
hold its own throughout the winter, and
Cluny, guipure, and Irish point. not to
forget the ever-popular renaissance.
PanDe velvets will be quite the rage, and
4 beautiful trimming for c sssy gowns will
be made of flowers cut OF of the panne
and appliqued on TO the material. but il
panne or silk of another shade Velyets
either in plain or brocade, are to be much
used for the coming season. also great
deal for trimming. New silks are shown
in the Louis XIV and XVI designs in the
most gorgeous colorings, also soft cling
ings silks in Persian and Moorish designs
of wonderful beauty. All clinging mate |
rails. such as liberty silks and satins. sat |
in foulards, and panne silk, viii be sought |
for this season for the prevailing fashion =
is to do away with any but artistic lines |