davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1900-09-15
The Elaborate sleeve.

The Louis XIV sleeves are not popular
with the average person. They leap to
the eye, as the saying goes, too quickly,
and consequently become an aggressive
item. Furthermore, they tend to cut up
the entire figure in the strangest and
most unaccountable way. None but
the tall and slim are in any sort justi-
fed in considering them.
Nor is the sleeve pagode conducting
itself by any means as well as one could
wish. Familiarity, strangely enough,
has not in this case bred perfection
There is an infinity of variations, and
yet nine out of ten lack the requisite
touch of excellence. Some women are
essaying quite a long and bell shaped
sleeve that comes quite to the wrist
and only reveals by some chance move
ment the existence of a band sleevelet
beneath-a daring departure enough.
There is great need for new designs. as
the sleeve is the making or marring of
a gown.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1900-09-15
FASHION FRlLLs.

Many wraps are made in guipure over
a color. Some fit the shoulders and
reach to the elbow. where the edges
turn up all round, showing contrast
Ing colored lining, the velvet edges
bordered with a double ruching of silk
muslin, a high collar completing the ef-
feet. Then some of the velvet mantles
are longer in the back than in the front
and are Dordered with shaped f1ounces
strapped with cloth, the rundown col
lar being edged with velvet, which
shows the newest form of boIero. 1t is
furnished with a hood Some Of the
cloth coats are stitched all over and
display straps and buttons down the
front.
In Paris the accordion plated skirts
hold sway for young people, and soft
wooden materials of all sorts are en-
pioyed, such as yelling, cashmere and
Grape fabrics. The bodices are made
with deep belts and plated Jokes and
epaulets, lace beading outlining the
yokes- Even children are wearing bo-
leros and fancy Jackets, very often in
contrast to the dress. Light co1ored
silks for evening wear for young girls
are often trimmed with black mousse
line.
The newest lingerie from Paris gives
stout figures the aspect of slender hips,
the petticoat clinging from the waist
to below the knees The princess
gowns specially need skirts of this ma
ture, and, indeed, these new sets of
lingerie in one piece are invaluable for
present fashions. Chemises, drawers
and petticoats combined have been
brought out in several designs, and
morning gowns in plain silks, in cash
mere patterned panne, are nearly all
+-fr- Il L.
swans down is coming in again as a
trimming for morning gowns made in
soft wool.
Nothing is prettier than the silk slips
hand worked and of English make. the
stitching of the finest, the elaborate
patterns carried out by means of tuck
ings and lace insertions.
The popularity of lace does not in the
least wane, though its spell is already
so long. The sequin is still surviving,
though this season mainly in embroid-
cry on lace and always of the smaller
sort, veering almost to the size of the
bead. Finely sequined lace frocks will
reappear this winter and possibly in
those pale colors we have already ad-
mired, as well as in white and black
Sashes will certainly continue to form
feature over the simple gathered
backs of the incoming skirt. A simple
skirt with the material lying crosswise
over the hips and setting into slight
gathers into the band will probably be
the form of skirt adopted, and, in fact.
that is already being adopted by those
in the van 1t is very graceful and
really can be worn by almost any fig
ure. The sash makes a charming finish
for slight figure. Paquin gives such
sweet decorative ends to his sashes,
and often these are spoon shaped, in
which guise they have a quaint lappet
sort of look. Embrofderies will be just
as general on all kinds of costumes,
from the veriest web of an evening
gown to the novelties of the tailor and
the furrier.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1900-09-15

with wide. turned over cuff, like that
upon a kimono. fall back over deep
pulled undersleeve of white chiffon
gathered upon a lace band. The blouse
effect given by the upper part of the
gown is cleverIy effected by the inser-.
tion from the shoulders to the waist of
a pointed application of lace. When
the sash is tied around the gown at tie
waist line, the lace falls over the gird1e
in full folds that give it the appearance
of being a separate blouse and skirt. In
the back the vatican p1ait from Shout
der to skirt suggests the remark that
good deal of use viii be made this win
ter of vatican dress effects.
Jackets will be short, with the mere
suggestion of a basque for autumn use.
The long coats have not yet seen the
end of their career. A softening touch
is given to some of the light cloth
three-quarter coats by the use of a
chou and sash ends of chiffon applied
at one or both sides of the coat. In
cases where the trimming is used on
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1900-09-15

rial being applied in narrow bands, In
shades from the color of the cloth to
one either much darker or much light
er. When the gown is quite plain, the
applications of bands border it; when
it has an overskirt or f1ounce, the trim
ming borders the overskirt or founce.
The bolero Is still to be used, a new
adaptation being a waistcoat with long
pointed front pieces, which is to be
worn with tailor made gowns. With
tailor made gowns the colored, fancy
gilet is about the only touch of color
possible, and on it dressmakers look for
many of their finest effects this year.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1900-09-15
DRIs. sept. the deaths Of the

DARIS, Sept THE deaths of the
Grand Duke Of Saxe-Coburg- Go
tina and of King Humbert of Italy,
plunging, as they have. most of the
royal houses of Europe into mourning,
viii have a depressing effect on fall
and winter fashions. More somber col
ors are being called for, and mauve and
violet are again much in demand.
The Princess of Wales has just had
completed a very handsome gown,
which is the criterion of smartness in
that line for the season. The material
used is black silk while the trimming
consists Of lace and velvet bows. The
sleeves are made with upper and under
sections. are tight fitting above and
trimmed with lace and insertion The
skirt is made to appear of the fve
gored cut, but in reality has only three
One of the seams runs down the center
of the back, and a lace hounee, shaped
shorter in the back than the front
trims the skirt. The blouse front opens
over a plated fullness of the silk and a
graduated cascade of black Grape trims
the bodice from shoulder to waist. The
blouse is plated at the waist to close
fitted lining.
For black ties, feathers and flowers
there has sprung up the greatest de-
mand among the fashionab1es; like
wise for all goods in black and white
and the purple shades of half mourn
ing. Tailored gowns, both blacks and
grays, are being made in large num-
bers, while trimmings of lilac, hello
trope, lavender and mauve are sudden
ly elevated into popularity
Black serge gowns are regarded as
especially smart for mourning wear of
the more serviceabIe sort For more
dressy effects a model worn at LATER
rie1ss commended itself both on account
of its daintiness and its chic. 1t was of
white silk crepe de chine over black
yelled with white chiffon. The long,
slightly trained skirt was trimmed with
lace. above which came a little group of
narrow tucks and then narrow band
of insertion, the skirt being shaped
above with a rounded yoke. The bod
ice of lace was made with a transpar-
ent yoke, encircled on the shoulders by
folds of draped crepe de chine fashion
ed into a chou at one side, under which
long sashlike ends of the crepe de chine
fell like stoles almost to the hem of the
skirt This sash was embroidered and
trimmed at intervals with lace, which
gave it q very rich appearance.
The hats for fall wear are scarcely
picturesque. Too many of them are on
the style of the Ladysmith hat, a
shape suited to few faces There are a
vast number of hats of plain felt, SIM
ply ornamented, with bands or with a
wing or a quill as the sole trimming
Such hats are serviceabIe for rough
weather or walking. but are seldom seen
on fashionable women after the hour of
noon, and in the city are scarcely worn
at ALL Madame or mademoiselIe at her
chateau delights in hats of this sort.
They are Just the thing for morning
rambles about the grounds or for a spin
over the beautiful roads in her newest
automobile.
winter viii be the 1avishness of gold
embroideries and metallic effects in rib
bons in embroideries. For some time
we have been treated to anticipatory
hints to this effect, but now it is au-
thoritatively stated. The use of gold
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1900-09-15

threads in outlining or embroidering
patterns on chiffon and mousselineseem
to be one of the chief decorative effects
for the winter evening gowns The me
tallic threads are sometimes shaded to
produce really fine effects. Dull cop
pers and silver are used with advan-
tage too. All this richness has a semi
oriental suggestiveness harmonizing
well with the tendency to use oriental
fabrics and oriental effects. Some of
the new silks are real importations of
Arabian, Hindoo and Egyptian pat
terms. These have been initiated by the
French looms SO successfully that they
can scarcely be distinguished from the
antique oriental hand Ioomwork.
Panne. changeable silks, leather
treated fabrics, crepe de chine, crepe
crystale and brocaded metallic effects
are to be much used in fashioning the
richer garments of the coming season;
they will, in fact, occupy positions par
excellence of popularity. Satin deIaine
and fabrics of that sort are likely to
have a good deal of vogue for autumn
wear. and they are very pretty trimmed
with lace of the deep ecru shade
Velvet is being used great deal as
a trimming on cloth gowns. the mate
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1900-09-15

yesterday in the Rue de Ia Paix- Tt
was of silk, the bolero bordered with
a narrow gold braid, which was
also outlined on the rounded revers.
The underbodice was of plated silk,
the sleeves being plain except for
group of tucking just below the Shout
der A row of round buttons closed the
front of the blouse and were spripkled
in groups of two on revers and collar.
The latter was a plated affair, very
high, as are many of the new collars,
and was supplied with side turned over
pieces, trimmed with braid and but
tons.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1900-09-15
Fashions Fadn In Furs.

It is predicted that the commingling
of different peltry will be. one of the
distinctive features of the coming win
ter. Given plenty of scope and a ready
appreciation, this craze will more than
likely to extreme exaggerat ton,
when not one or two or three, but five
and six different kinds of furs will be
blended together in one clever whole.
As to the success of such a departure
time alone will tell. Applied fur will
assuredly be an approved fancy. Fur
riers are simply craving to exhibit their
manipulative skill and prove to US their
undaunted prowess with knife and nee
die. And since applications of all sorts,
kinds and conditions are dear to US, it
is more than likely that we shall be
ready and willing to be nodded to the
will of the adopts in the furry world.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1900-09-15
OW TO STORE AWAY
SUMMER CLOTHING.
ssooeseossoss"sooeoesesoe


N THESE days clothing accumulates
with a rapidity that was unknown
m in the days of our grandmothers, to
whom one new gown a year was a lux
ury, costing, as it did, as much as
would purchase an entire modern ward
robe Then gowns and wraps were put
away. from season to season, in great
cedar chests. and sadly wrinkled some
OF them must have been when they
again saw the light Nevertheless, they
were free from the attacks of that en-
envy of modern wooden and fur gar
ments, the ever attentive moth.
The value of space in modern houses
is so great, that there is seldom much
room for. cupboards, clothes presses and
wardrobes; therefore, how to dispose
of the family clothing between seasons
is problem that many housewives
find seriously troublesome. The archi-
tects of houses are generally men not
enlightened as to the necessity of cup
boards. If women built houses, all
would be vastly different.
1t is usually in the fan, when the
summer garments are put away and
the gradual transition from very light
to very heavy is in progress, that the
hopeiessness of the task of finding a
place for everything and keeping ev-
rerything in its place is forced home up
ON the feminine mind. The difficulty
is one in which the advice Of Man, the
Superior One. is worse than futile.
Says Man the Superior when be-
sought for words of counsel on the sub
5ect:
Buy some more trunks2 Can't you
get a few nice clean boxes to keep the
clothes in? Don't bother me about
such trifiesl" And then he goes off to
his wise masculine diversions, congrat-
ulating his Maker on the quality of
handiworh that was accomplished
when male brains were invented Wo-
man stays alone at home and wrestles
with the problem with varying degrees
of success. She manages to get all the
unused clothing slowed away and sur
wives the ordeal so that Man, returning
from his employment, takes to himself
great credit and, if he doesn't voice it,
says to himself Enthusiastically:
Wonder how these women would
run the house without me, anyway ~
But it never dawns upon him that no
bills for boxes or trunks come in to
verify his good opinion OF himself.
In the first place, when there is no
spare apartment to convert into a
wardrobe room, there are a dozen ex-
pedients which hard pressed house
holds have found satisfactory. A deep
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1900-09-15
HousehoId Hints.

Milk which has turned may be rem
dered fit for use by stirring in a little
soda.
Macaroni should be kept in alright
receptacles and when cooked plunged
into boiling sailed water.
Gravy will generally be lumpy IL the
thickening be poured in while the pan is
over the fire. Take the pan off until
the thickening is well stirred in, then
set it on the fire and cook thoroughly.
Gravies, sauces and soups, no matter
how small the quantity, should be
saved to use in warming up meat, fish
or vegetables.
Before scalding milk rinse out the
pan with a little cold water. This will
keep the milk from burning
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1900-09-15
UNIQUE CLOTHES STORING DEVICES.

surface with brass headed nails, will
give it a decidedly fanciful appearance.
The top should be perfectly smooth and
enameIed- Sheets of blotting paper
tackled over the enameled top will give
it quite a dignified appearance, or the
plotting paper may be placed in the
center of the desk and inclosed in one
of the large leather tipped pads to be
bought at the stationery shops. The
rest of the desk may be covered with
pretty linen and lace trimmed or en-
broidered covers. decorated with vases
of flowers. A valance suspended from
a brass rod or a row of shelves for
books and bric-a-brac will make
pretty finish.
NO matter where the clothing is put
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1900-09-15

There is a revival of the check skirt
with the cloth coat. A good many
Americans remain faithful to checks,
and French people would never consid-
er wardrobe complete without one
travelling or morning frock of check
tweed Some of the best examples seen
are sort of mixed check in dull green
and reds, with a coat of a dark shade
of heather mixture cloth to tone with
it, and even these somewhat severe lit
tie coats are softened with collar of
embroidery, silk, panne or oriental sat-
in and sometimes beautiful eastern
embroidery.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1900-09-15

There Is no question but laces VIII be
much worn both during the fall and
the winter. Those who have laid in q
good supply of these beautiful trim
mings from the bargain sales should
therefore be happy. Luxeuil, Irish and
Cluny are expected to hold leading
places, but nothing which is pretty
will be at all amiss The shops, too, are
showing woven lace collars and Jackets,
as well as all over pieces, so that it
looks as though, with a little altera-
ton, last seasons lace gowns may be
creditabiy made to do service for an
other year.
There seems to be little prospect of a
radical change in the shape of skirts un-
til spring Tt is authoritatively stated
that the round skirt, just touching the
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1900-09-15

ground, will be introduced The Paquin
skirt of 1880 style seems to be favored
by Americans. It is quite long and
shaped to the figure, with plating or
scarcely noticeable drapery over the
hips and the suggestion of a box plat
in the back 1t has the seam down the
well.
For indoor wear nothing could be
more charming than the tea gown just
completed by one of the great dress
makers for avery pretty actress. Wolfe,
lace and chiffon are the fabrics used in
it's making. The wide, Algerian sleeves.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1900-09-15

may be built to look like an elongated
writing desk. The under part may be
fitted with drawers on each side, these
being as wide and as deep as space will
permit. A brass rod running the en-
tire length of the front, with shorter
rods at the side, should be hung with
silkoline or cretonne. With the cur
tafnS drawn over the drawers, no one
will suspect that the desklike piece of
furniture is in reality a clothes press.
In the open space in the center a waste
basket may be disposed, and the wood
covered with cretonne tackled to the
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1900-09-15

trace of the cream being Immediately
removed. Otherwise, If the grease re-
mains upon the face it VIII cause parti-
cles of dust or grit to cling to it. After
the cream has been removed with a. soft
handkerchief the face should be gently
sponged with Iukewarm water or rub
bed over with a face leather. Soft wa
ter is essential for a tender skin. Pro-
cure pure rainwater if possible 9th
erwise use distilled water or boiled wa
ter or some of the various water soften
ers that are sold. An occasional face
bath of rosewater has excellent effects.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1900-09-15
Bright Co1ors In Favor.

Bright co1ors are coming into favor
again, and the season promises to be
exceptionally brilliant. All the newest
models of dresses are deliberately trim
med with costly lace or best quality
silk passementerie. but, however gor-
geous the colors may be, black velvet
ribbon or chenille is invariably intro
duced on the bodice in some way or
other.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1900-09-15
AS TO SALADS.

Let your salads be varied, not always
made in precisely the same style.
Sprinkle over your lettuce one day a
few cold cooked peas; another day
French beans, finely sliced; another
chopped tomato; chopped tomato and
cucumber, a few beets that have been
left over, daintily chopped, or cold as
paragus. Caulifiower may be covered
with chopped parsley and served with
French dressing.
A dainty dish of potato salad nicely
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1900-09-15

Bo1eros in all materials will be the
height of fashion throughout the win
ter. The newest fasten in front with
long scarfs tied in loose bows.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1900-09-15
Tender skins.

An east wind is a great beauty de-
stroyer. Much may be done, however,
to combat the influence of the east
wind upon the complexion by taking a
few timely precautions. A tender skin
should be rubbed over with cucumber
cream or lotion before being submitted
to the influence of the east wind. all
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1900-09-15

Lace fronts are not likely to be so
much used with the tailored gowns.
Revers and collars are lower in the
front, but cut higher in the back
! Even the separate b1ouses are being
made with the bolero effects, as was
illustrated by one which I noticed
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1900-09-15

away, it should never be forgotten that
cotton and linen clothes keep better for
having all the starch washed out be-
forehand. ELLA MATTHIESSEN.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1900-09-15

To keep meat fresh in hot weather
cover it over with bran and hang it in
a current of air
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1900-09-15

The old fashioned remedy for bIis-
tered feet is to rub the soles with tai
low dropped from lighted candle into
the palm of the hand Tallow candles
are seldom seen nowadays, but a little
unsalted mutton dripping answers the
purpose quite as well, and that is al
ways easily obtained
Wooden rather than cotton stockings
should be worn by people with tender
feet, and powdered boracic acid should
be busted into the stockings to prevent
disagreeable Precipitation and to check
the tendency to chatting.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1900-09-15

HASH A LA CHARLoTTE.-Mak half pint Of
brown sauce; season with pepper, salt and chop
ped parsley Cut the mutton into thick slices
and leave them in the sauce at the side of the
range for an hour. Poach some eggs and put each
one on crouton of fried bread Dish the hash
and serve the eggs garnish; or, if only two
three eggs required, place them in the CEN
ter with the hash round
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1900-09-15

DINNER
little Neck CLAIMS.
Celery Soup.
Braised Saddle of Mutton. Lettuce.
Drowned Potatoes. Rolls.
Dreamed Carrots. Apple Sauce.
Ice Cream.
Gold Cake. Coffee.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1900-09-15
LUNCHEON on TEA.

CROUToNS OF FISH-Cut some small rounds
Of bread, toast and butter plentifully and sprinkle
with salt and pepper and smear over with made
mustard On this put layer Of fish previously
pounded in mortar), with little butter and an
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1900-09-15

BRAISED SADDLE OF MUTToN.-Take the
saddle of mutton, fat bacon and boned anchovies
for Harding" two medium sized carrots, two me-
dunn sized turnips, two medium sized onions, two
sticks of celery, bunch of parsley, herbs and
the stock Trim off all unnecessary fat from
the saddle. Lard it in alternate rows with thin
strips Of fat bacon and boned anchovies. Prepare
the vegetables; then cut them in neat slices. Put
them and the herbs at the bottom of a stewpan
lay the mutton top Of them and pour in
enough stock to cover the vegetables Over the
saddle lay piece of buttered paper Stew gently
for from two to three hours, according to the size
Lift it out, place it a hot dish and brush all
over a little melted glaze. Strain the vegetables
out of the stock and keep them hot Boil the
stock quickly, with the lid OF the pan until It il
reduced to about half Of the first amount Then
strain round the mutton and garnish ta5tefulIy
with the vegetables.