The daily morning journal and courier., 1900-02-10
FROM CADIz TO SEVILLE.
DY R1ILRO1D ALONG THE RJyES
 OF THE GUADALQUIVIR.
The FOmOus Fisheries-"God Sends
 Meat and satan Sends Cooks.v

Especial Correspondence of the Journa
 and Courier)
 Seville Spain, Jan 9.--It sounds Hi.
 bernian, but is nevertheless true, that
 the most interesting things in Cadiz are
 outside of 1.-the products of sea ano
 land as exemplitied in the fisheries and
 the Wine-trade. The best way to get 6
 correct idea of the former is to turn
 fisherman yourself, and learn from
 practical experience, rather than from
 records of the animal catch. First to
 the old sea wall, where a motly crowd
 sits all day long, With legs hanging
 over, angling with such persistenty that
 their patience has passed into proverb
 familiar throughout Spain-"la paclen-
 cia de un pescador de cana.'' Some of
 the very bestfsh in the world, including
 the celebrated salmonete, or red millet,
 the Saint Peter" the Nero the
 .'Gold-Head'- waiting by thousands
 to be hauled up at the end of line
 dangling from cane-stalk. At any rate, to go fishing from the ramparts of
 Cadiz is something you should not miss mot so much for the fish as for the
 novel experience. The January sun, which in this latitude is like that of
 northern June, reflects with double in- tensity from the furnished sea in front
 and the glare of white walls behind; but the breeze is cool and constant, and if wise in your day and generation your brow is shaded with a broad som brero.
 Sailors from all parts of the world frequent this sea-wall, including many Moors and Africans from the other side of the Mediterranean. There, too, are troops of King Alfonso's soldiers in gor- geous uniforms, whose countenances, like Cassius', wear "a lean and hungry look" pompous officials; French, Span- ish and English merchants; Portuguese traders; beggars and peddlers galore; promenading grande danes with lace mantillas partially covering their shin ing hair; and bevies of giggling senori- tas, flirting with fans and eye-lids un- der the very noses of watchful duennas.
 The seaward view is glorious. The noble bay of Cadiz, more than thirty miles in extent. is almost entirely land locked. The outer bay stretching from Rota villege at the foot of the promon- tory, to the Guadalete river, is lined with medieval forts; the inner bay protected by the Matagorda and Pun tales Notifications, the isthmus en- trenchments Cordadura castle and Fort San Fernando. These fisheries have been celebrated through thirty long centuries, and the salmonete you are hauling up to-day at the end of a string may be lneal descendants of the same which supplied the luxurious Ro- mans with their favorite tid-bits when Rome was new on her seven hills. | Perhaps in this very spot wise old Apol- lonias sat when he studied the phenom- ena of the tides and arrived at the con- cluson that the waters were sucked in | and sent out again by submarine winds; | and Solenus, who disputed his theory | and sagely urged that the ebb and flow was caused by huge sea-animals
 For tunny fishing, you must go out in a felucca, right under the rusty guns of f and Puntales, to the rocky | lslets called Los Puercos" and Los Cochinos,' (the Pigs and Chickens), 1 that obstruct the harbor entrance. The is also encumbered by shifting mud-banks, deposited by the Guadalite and Santi- Petri rivers, in which the luuIlieS UuTy luSIIlSGlVeS uuTluS lllc ! season. On the mainland, at | Lhe mouth of the Guadalite, is the town 1f Carraca, with a thousand inhabi- tants and most unsavory reputation as to morals. It contains the naval ar senal, defended by the cross-fre of two forts, and the royal doek-yards, with twelve slips and three spacious basins. Close by, on the isthmus, Is a fashion able and much frequented bathing place, and farther on are doztn others you of the jeweled crescent ,f New York harbor by night, studded with electric-lighted resorts. Right 1ere. in the sheltered lee of San Fer 1ando, are the famous tunny fisheries, which supplied the ancients with sea- 'ood of the highest price-the same which gave rise to the Greek epigram, Bass, congers' head, and tunny's under
 side,
 Are luxuries to slender means denied"
 They liked salmonete better; but tun- ly was dearer and like swels of mod 'rn times the Philosophers favored hat which was fartherest removed rom hoi polloi. The wisest men of Greece and Rome set their mighty wits o work over new receipts for tunny looking. Athenaeus recommended hat the fish be stuffed with onions and erved with acrid condiments, and the Iigurians ate only the under part, tewed in oil and Corsican wine, with pepper and chopped onion lou may find it to-day on the tables of Il Mediterranean steamers, cut up into rown strips that look like mahogany havings floating in grease-as nasty a 1ess as can well be imagined. But the sh itself, as seen in its native element, , beautiful-dark lustrous blue on the lack, shining with the tint of polished teel, shading underneath to dull sil- CT. It feeds on sardines pilchard, ,, and even the young of its , wn species; and by an admirable law compensation, is in it's turn preyed pon by larger fish, to say nothing of reatest enemy man. It is said to vary z l flavor according to the locality in | -hich it grew, the best thing being aught off the shores of Sicily and Pro- I ince. According to Aristotle, the best way s catch tunny is to spear it while it I
 basling on the surface of the sunlit s ga. The Thracians rigged up a con- | 'ivance by which they pierced many I sh at once as they lay in their winter aarteus iu the mud. 4 short thick, , |