The sun., 1900-12-09
COLOR AND FORM IN DRESS.
s,g,u BrR,UiRDI' fo>D>f~ ron
IONS uNfN
... 80, wear. whns ,Ir"'' Alws'' 'sd'
&. a,.,'. ,nIaus rIn'e q" '"od"n s"de"
ut. ,o.eus iSfi' 'smr S q" Ao'
,1,.. Ahnni tho nIrs.makrt' CtOh's,

Mfs uNeNH f"' "" NV ~
us.. Ahout the b'e..mah''' FRONT"
t.tob reruhntdt nncu. whit" moro Than
,,ct icf.tc and declare her Opinion tha' u"
,,lnt I'D. gonrr1lly 80 becoming g. her w"
bop.s ..t.. pt' urN ptt'uonllN hwlt"l ''
whit AH pf 'irm ar' mad" s" ua 10 reveal
,o,c 80 tho iucs nl her nrutc that would rro-
,lal,r nor -, Me- wai-t h's d.-u I'or'd
.,,,,,r. IN tho .irligft nll 81 hcr gowns from
Tho .h,rldrr -uliy one -t'i" 40 u'"'hS
rcac eovi. has b"cu followed b, ihc 'oam'
.tr,..es. whose imagination could i1'o been
.ayefoN tavcl. 30 rnouotpnoHs. II smart nnd
,,y,I 10 tho manner IN wh.nu 'uoy nre made
Three or four broad. Nat riaIt- fall IRON W"
neck 10 the bottom Of the skirt, which - long
.rouyh behind TO trail somewhat only ia"
,,yl, of the trimming about the neck Nuies
In some Of these gowns which AT" usually
nadc Of cloth. rows of narrow. coaf-" I''" run
nbo,t the throat In Oth"rs. orlN tN' 'Itculr
stitching serves 70 relieve tn" m'n"t"nN "i lho
tlnits With these guwu-. when ~" hlI'"S'
invariably white. Nine Slral wars zoos"
flowing robe Of satin THIS l. '"t V"'' SUI"
a luxury A. II sounds, sine" nuI' 'u" Nh'' SUN
robe il required ~ go with number oi gowns
I, /. this straight gown that has done NOR"
than ANYTHING else Ia crc0'" IN" new i'Hlhhe
tsn,re which Bernhardt Is said tn have invented
She made the change to play boys part ana
women who were not even remotely connected
with the stage followed her example because
Il wns the fashion But It has become very
much less the fashion her" than III lurol".
Nine Bernhardt never laced H. her Younger
days because she w1- - thin then ihat H,le
could spare herself the trouhl" When III"
came 70 this country I've wears Agn ~h" was
,tnuter than s.n had ever been ~ b"r life before,
but She -tl sCorurl stays she Nor" her h.it
very low and revealed the WnI-t W" nav ha,'l'
l.. I'll
Other women then noticed that tn" Lannon'S
French actress was thinking -" much ,Hbpu!
revealing the curve Ct beauty IN her back thtt
she never thought Of what she might l"ok ISn
when studied according TO more n-uhI >tahiaFua
VI If was n little Git difficult to reconcile Mmo
Pernhardts physical outlines during her dhNs
Of pumpncss with any known -tHnd'rl 81
beauty. and NO man would ".'r ny, ,. Tir,s.,t
fed in the departure when IN" loss ot fr-li
had made her slender, aud the ir'e' trarerul
The % %nnyieIiing, ,irl'ly drawn, physlque of the
women who Clung to the old-iashinn'd stay
and drew II as tightly a. ever Inc "r,y ri,.. n.e
life who could never attempt what q great
actress might do with i,npuitv; was the new
freh dg1rs a. eS,,S SrS n,5s5ted ,G,d TO % sara3 3
Bernhardt for that
LADY do Grey. who has Just been declared
Ineligible any longer Il the society OF Queen
victoria's court has becn put outside III" pal"
because she has gone into trade, and 50 II ap-
pears that ladies who go into trade, whatever
their family and rank may be. are not regarded
as nt for the society that gathers about sove'
reign. She will probably nnu plenty Of society
IN the obscurity into which she has heen cast
by this decree. So many men and women Of
title have recently gone into business In Eng
land that society among that set ought TO be
very toerable.
Lady de Grey in one Of the most conspicuous
women in Londons smartest SGT. She has
practically been in control Of the opera
season at Covent Garden for the past six years
and has been known To travel all the way from
London to Moscow to hear singer whose
enlargement was contemplated. She Is the
intimate friend OF Jean de- R"-1ko andi' largely
responsible for the success "f the opera season
A. Coyent Ga7den Iin,r MH2hat h nSr T4iEHrIs
could ever be gathered Her social in1u"nc"
helps t, keep up ia" standard OF The box hold
agament Of the season " opera - il she we're
going to make 4 large profit ont of Y hor-elf.
But the un.y reward sio has ever been known
10 pn nv IL tn" friendship Of IN" opera singers.
ii was in her drawing room TINT lean Dc Ecs7ke
first slng 'hr mus" or ~l"-iri"d, and NJ hnr
Jean AND ElpIlri sang coon songs TO Vine.
joan Dc ite-2k"'s accompaniment on ihc.pi tlo.
THIS ha-. been all her reward for "T"rtinn- on
behllf ~ the opera. Her r"1l business enter
prise f. q tea-roOtn, which she - t. conduct in
~
,a Ia I,i',s 40 s,iI f. he -. ,r,a o"J
h r .hrsba1d'4 family has. according 10 ono
story, refused - pay them aSlI4' h'"c l4r
,., soc,r ~ ~ No In ysb C'uiI ''''''
Ann, cruiae Cow,ll Uohkir, who 1ial tho
-, t,,t, r. tr-....'..
o''e' nav III 'h' F'"''' '"'''0' '''''' .'''
Ph Del hia wac niece OF the composer
palf, and n, tho boyinninr of hnr stage clrccr
=, ..I.,.I ~, i'll ,,l,,
tH""'u lhat -h' U'-N''9''u 'l' ''"'''' '"I''''N
O! the family She APPEARED IN concert a. a
child .inyi,y IN Glasgow when she wa. only
-. ,..-,.-, -. ...t - ~, -,
uH'"n "l"'''H'"' W. ""'"''' 7"' "i.-
Jsa-ri in opera 10 En-iiui ana y Wa not Ghii
b.- arrival b,r. that She nludr l.r bcgiuuius
u "" "'"'H7
In those early dHNs oi the American stage,
sb, enio,eI ,. .,o,,,lr-.ry a. great as -oi.. ,f
- - 49,, l,,.t g.. -
H'' su'''NNo "'"N ".''"'' '''.'' Ia" =. va
simpler and less triumphant, because then the
theatre WAS not the .amc elaborate institution
a., = a., ,rla H.. ~, e., ,Io,.,.r. -,
'h'' ~ II o-'"E NV "'''"' Wv I''9'l "'''
much number than th"y are now ana inc re-
latlon OF the actrc,s to the outside. world was
as dinarapt n tha, of the th.otr. a. a vhnlo
~,
now Il 10 society. let Anna NoNeH ne Ni~
full of pretty triumIhs 1heg, were not
h,. ,h, ,oo, ,bo, .ho ,.,. , ,,,,rrit
''"'"''"'u '' ''' '"'' '",' '' va '' ~
woman when she arrived her" IN lN1. she
took the name of her husband. William cowcl.