The times., 1900-03-18

band of yours been increasing your aIIeaeS
Elsurdiy large dress allowance inquired
Ids. Van Knickerbocker suspieiously. and
fonewhat enyiously as The hostess rose 90
receive her with lapful OF tickc.ed sam
rlss.
You are quite on the wrong track re-
piled the mistress OF the tea tray never
thcless I am reyelling in a bit Of great good
luck Ny niece. my favoritc niece, VINO
lives in the country and trusts implicitly
10 my taste is about to get married and
o. the highest compliment she could pay
me is that OF leaving the selection OF her
trousseau in my hands. am already deep
iu the intricacies Of evolving a series Of
smart and not over expensive costumes for
her wearing in and after the honeymoon
season.
a white satin marriage dress Of course, "
began Mrs. Van Knickerbocker, interested
OF the moment
Well may be" admitted the hostess.
but I've not got round to that yet.
Every hing in a trousseau should properly
be considered before the wedding gown, for
the best inspiration should come last and
as this wedding is to take place in April
after Easter I've got an abundance of
leisure in which TO work up the wardrobe
IN detail. At this very moment the whole
energies Of my mind are bent on elucidat-
Ing the problem Of three simple but none
the less timely house costumes Spring
thoughts. so to speak. that will serve for
luncheous, and yet they must be applicable
60 outdoor purposes when the occasions
arise for my niece is not going to wed
millionaire.
Ny first thought has been for a pret-
~ mastic tinted cashmere. You know. Of
course how much the smooth-faced cash
mere will be worn, and If ! am able to
read anything in the shadow that is cast
by coming events. ! won't stray very far
from the path Of fashionable rectitude by
ordering the skirt draped at one side
and 10y using embroidery for my decora-
tion. I've taken very close stock OF
some Of the newest ideas and l find that
a pretty application Of needlework means
everything.
The skirt Of my first masterpiece has
a generous train and the goods. dTaped
mp on one hip slightly. is slit open from
hem TO knee and falls back TO expose
closely kilt peated petucOat Of the
sweetest pasted blue crepe de chine. All
about the edges of the cashmere draperles
and cream and mastic silk threads that
are quite like fine cords and that give
the result OF rich embroidery without the
expensive labor necessary. The waist Of
this ! need hardly tell you is cut in the
form Of a bolero al least the jacket fronts
are and the whole thing opens upon the
bust to show a front Of mastic silk heav-
lily stitched aud worked in blue and cream
TO match the design on the skirt"
H,a HHrrva' Hr.n .nrrnf~
ted Mrs. Van Knickerbocl1er. hanging over
her friends shoulder while the outlines
of The proposed costume were rapidly and
bkillfully sketched out Very much used.
however is a big decorative bow pinned
On the left lapel OF the jacket. front and
q should be a bow OF blue panne or en-
hroidered blue liberty satin or one Of the
blue tafeta with mastic tinted chiffon
drawn over il. You simply have no idea
what passion bows are going TO be
come Pretty soon We will wear them
tackled here. there. and everywhere to
our long suffering persons, so I advise
you to put one into this design
On II goes. announced the hostess
and now that you like my first interpre-
tation OF what smart spring frock should
be. let me explain my second achievement
j is a walking dress made Of that loyely
new and inexpensive smooth surfaced
goods called visiting cloth.
The skirt OF greyish tapestry green is
laid in three tucks at either side. They
have now a strange. new. and entirely at
'ractive way OF tucking skirts that throws
q panel into the front width. a broad box
plest into the rear. and then there are
side tucks that do not rise so high as the
hips Ii lends a charming diversity to
The skirt without rendering it a bit clum-
sy. though / confess I hung fire a long
time between this idea and that of a
skirt slit up FOR varying distances from
Ike ground aud then piped with white
along the cut edges. stitched firmly again
to the foundation and finished ar the top
q every piped opening by big silk arrow
heads Well ia the end the pleats won
the day and then I searched brain and
conscience Tor an idea applicable to the
waist and / found it at last on tho back
Of very pretty woman luBChing on one
of the smart hotel restaurants the other
dsy.
LAS adjusted 90 my nieces needs this
smart little body and coat VIII take the
form Of green close fitting waist Of soft
thick isheta having n collar and big jahOt
uf cream lace cncircling the throat and
falling fuli over the bust to NEE, that
point where four large iHlaid buttons
fsstcn the waist snugly. Upon this goes
a captivating little jacket OF cloth 10 match
generously under the arm, curved down To
long points in the centre and carved out
iu a round arch behind. This with its
slightly cup shaped collar and its sleeves
gathered in just a triie on the shoulder
pieases one immensely
Il don't see anything TO criticisc about
it, declared the visitor. wandering away
10 the FIRE and il very refreshing on
this freezing day TO think OF spring things.
I've just been making a round Of calls and
an he women on my beat I found receiving
fn white muslin gowns. That has been
rather a rad this winter; the sheerest
whites. swiss and The most c0bwcbby lace
is used. aud in a drawing room, heated 20
- degrees and adorned with flowers. the
-1mmtry raimcnt has the most bewitchins
effect particularly Il the day is unusually
cold and nasty outside
well What bothers me" answered tie
hostess pucl5ering Up her fac white brow,
isis Inc future Of fringe
'Oh. it Is going TO be worn mere or
Jess. soorhcd Mrs. Van Knigkcfbocker.
WHY. only this morning ] saN one of
the sweetest studies in grey and lilac.
sarkcloih for lenteu wear and IL v5u kuoy
e. good thing when you hear OF q yolll
adopt the model 1 am going 10 tell sou
about il TO your Eiece's needs. The gown I
refer 10 was OF the most doyc-lilIe grey
ladies cloth in spring weight; the skirt
dropped upon q petucOat Of lilac silk that
showed 20 advantage through a deep
nounce Of grey fringe set on in large loops
below a section OF lattice work made OF
rriss-cToss bands OF grey bebe velvet IL
boR. An Eson coat OF grey cloth upon a
e8isf Of lilac silk and the coats wing re
Ners faced with lilac or oyerlsid with tire
EsrroEcst velvet ribbon gave the little
gown . most chic and attractive air that
persuaded me TO copy il 50 soon as I can
lay hands upon the proper materials and