New-York tribune., 1900-04-15

he year when the dressmakers are the busiest and
the happiest for. it is needless to they take
greater interest In gowns intended TO delight their
beloved Paris than in the most expensive creations
that arc doomed cold appreciation foreign
shores.
Shopping in Paris is never delightful as in the
spring, and a certain small class Of foreigners
understand and take advantage Of this fact. Dur
ing the and midwinter. when the city is
fun OF foreign buyers and dressmakers. the
couturIeres prone restrict themselves TO pro-
vfdng certain number of models which de-
signed, obviously, for the foreign market. Now,
the dressmakers have fewer models to show, but
they have great number OF lovely novelties which
intended TO be worn as they are and not to be
looked a and considered simply advertising
signs Of workmanship and originality.
Ones attention is called first, perhaps TO foulard
gowns-there so many of them and they
so attractive There is little danger this year
one foulard gown will look like another, for the
silks first of all, show great variety. and a large
proportion of the modes this lend them
selves particularly we'll TO the making of thin
silks Nothing is more popular these gowns
than shirring. both for bodces and skirts. Then,
again. is used a lot of fris Of moussene de sole
gauze, which to be better liked than edges
OF ribbon A good many of these gowns made
with elbow sleeves and neck cut square about the
throat
A FOULARD GOWN.
One of the new satin faced foulards has a white
ground, with figure of coral pink, In which there
is irregular black design. The skirt is shirred
for several inches below the waist and hangs in
folds that give at the bottom effect decidedly
bouffant. four-inch entredeux OF art guipure
makes trimming the bottom of the skirt
that is arranged in two points, and below this the
skirt finishes in small rufies. The bodice has
deep yoke OF guipure with shoulder straps Of black
velvet, from under which pointed frills Of lace fall
over the tops of the sleeves. The sleeves are ex-
tremely pretty Under the frill and a little below
they shirred, and again at the wrist for a few
inches. and second pointed lace frill falls over
the hand The yoke on the bodice is shorter on
side than the other; that IS It ends some
three inches below the shoulder the left side
and under the right arm. The silk IN the form Of
band of shirring is arranged along this slant. and
is then softly gathered into black belt This
model would be attractive in muslin but 1t is par
ticuiarly suitable for foulard silks
The foulards in the cashmere patterns are al
most too gay TO form the best material for a whole
gown, but they combine with cloth and thin woods
In a attractive manner A light weight cloth IN
pale blue is arranged with a cashmere foulard In
this manner: The cashmere design, by the way
contains turquoise blue. coral pink and a pale
shade Of green. The silk is used for a choker and
pointed yoke. which is framed by a berthalike
rever Of white lace coral pink panne The
holero is finished all about with line of lace over
pink, and ii crosses and fastens on one side
Of the bow Of pink moussefne Below the
bolero the cloth shows in the form of few
box pleats. and the long sleeves are Of the
cloth. The cloth skirt is laid in pleats on the
sides. and in the back in box pleat reversed or
turned under. At the bottom, about six inches
from the hem is band Of the silk bordered on
each edge by a line of pink panne covered with
lace
DAINTY GIRLIsH FROCK.
girlish frock Of white and pink foulard is
trimmed with peatings OF white gauze and black
velve: ribbon On the skirt two silk rufiies
edged with pleating of gauze that is headed with
a narrow line OF black velvet. The bodice ends in
square at the base of the throat and has a collar
OF shirred silk, finished with a rufie edged with
the pleated gauze and velvet. About the waist is a
shirred corselet that is closed with OF black
velvet.
Prettier than this is a foulard of paIest gray with
gray running over it. It is slightly low and
has large collar Of appliqued lace figures finished
OF the finish the elbow sleeves Coral vel
vet makes the waistband and bow just below the
laid in clusters Of small peats separated by lines
OF lace figures that extend almost to the bottom
what the ol1ersnt Parls authorities have say
on skirts is OF interest The opinion of VI. Doucet
follows:
Generally speaking. there is greater variety in
the shape Of the skirt than there has been some
seasons past The pleated skirt in a modified form
will be largely used for thin materials but the
sheath skirt again In a modified form will prob-
say the sheath skirt IS foundation for the
skirt which while these lines, is fuller and
IS apt loaded with trimmings that Somewhat
change the appearance OF the close lines"
The tunic which seemed to disappear during the
best model 10 choose for street costume OF cloth
or wool but II is most useful and dressy for gowns
OF thin material A pretty demi toilet made Of
meteore crepe in old rose and wool yelling OF the
same color which black figures are embroidered
In chenille is an example of how useful and pretty
the tunc idea be. The embroidered stun makes
IN noyor Cfraaf ~ A -