New-York tribune., 1900-07-08

the belt in blouse fashion, but stitched trimming Is
the proper thing. The cotton materials with the
fashionable silk satin surface. modish. made
with some acceptance of the tailor made idea and
how this may be managed is Illustrated in the
following gown
1t is5 a salmon-pink cotton stuff with a surface
of silk and is trimmed with stitched applications
of white pique and small pearl buttons. The
underskrt is finished about the bottom with a
deep pleating. Above is tunic in a point
front and back. This tunic is buttoned down the
front, but left open to flare from the knees down.
1t is trimmed about the edge and up the front with
stitched applications of white pique. The bodice
is jacket blouse tucking under a black velvet
belt. From the bust to the waist 1t is buttoned
to continue the line on the skirt and above II
shows a stiff chemisette and inner choker of
white pique. A deep sailor collar and revers are
of pink trimmed with white applications, and
cuffs on the jacket sleeves match
The shops full Of striped dmites which are
pretty made UP in the simplest manner. There Is
no expense of trimming on a gown of white dnity
with narrow stripes of blue running through It.
and yet the effect is pretty possible. The
skirt has a deep circular founce, much deeper
in the back than in front and this is covered
with many rows Of crossway rufre. The bodice
is arranged in simple surplice folds that tucked
into narrow Delt of black velvet. This belt
makes a point in front and is narrow in the back,
ending with two small loops and long ends. A
ruffie finishes the sleeves at the elbows.
yellow and white dimity has the stripe much
wider. fully inch. The skirt pIeated in such
a way make a yoke OF solid yellow and the
upper part of the bodice is pleated in the same
way, showing the stripe only from the bust to the
waist. Except a slender figure this blouse
would be better laid entirely in peats in the back
The sleeves are pleated to show only the plain
color to just above the elbows. then they spring
out into striped puff that is gathered into cuff
of embroidered muslin. The bodice is cut low at
the throat, with band in front uniting the sides
Of 7 sailor collar Of embroidered muslin.
DESIGNS FOR LACE GOWNS.
The lace gown Of this summer is made of lace
insertion. fagoted together divided by lines of
fine tucking. These are newer than the all over
lace gowns, and have air of greater simplicity
yet they may be made dainty and elaborate as
possible. Imagine a foundation OF cherry colored
silk. covered with thin white chiffon that is ar
ranged In clusters of pleats. Over this forming
a blouse and tunic is the lace insertion arranged
in rows united by fagot stitching the fine tucking
of the chiffon beneath showing under the fagotng
The lace opens to show Of the chiffon over
the cherry silk, and the part of this vest is
cut away to make a square decolletage. There is
however, choker OF the lace unIined, but wired.
From the bust 10 the waist the vest is crossed
with bands OF black velvet, fastened with small
diamond buckles, and where the velvet bands start
are little rosetes of black baby velvet ribbon There
is the fashionable belt of black velvet, pointed in
r Unit NTH - small loops ana onG ends in In the back
overskirt, much longer behind than In front, and
rests over a tucked founce Of chiffon
as to the knees In front and in the back long
enough to cover the trailing skirt. This form is
particularly pretty when the underskrt, where il
shows in front. is a mass of ruffies. plain and
figured lavender muslin has the figured stun made
up in tunic of this with the ruied underskirt
Of the plain stuff The tunlc makes a slight train
behind and ends just about at the knees in front
It Is gathered into the waistband with cIusterT f
shirrings behind, The suTplice bodice has a high
belt Of purple Liberty satin and the pointed neck
Is trimmed with hchu Of white null edged with
pleatings OF the plain lavender muslin. The sleeves
have elbow cuffs of the plain stuff and fun under
sleeves OF white null.
POPULARITY OF THE MESS JACKET
The popularity of the bolero is most decidedly on
the wane. The taffetas Jackets are as popular es
they promised 10 be two months ago but not In Tho
bolero shape The "Tness' jacket. high to the necl,
and with little point behind seems to be the sue
of the bolerO. TO wear with summer rnusIna
these are very smart, OF military red or blue silk
trimmed with small gold buttons and a little gold
braid e''
Sleeves are very fun the elbows. A decided
bag there draped up on the inside of the arm Is
pretty. Sometimes little turn up cuf is added 10
the bag; sometimes the bag consists of q series Of
these cuffs. and sometimes ID is made of several
pleats. II Is difficult to describe the new sleeves
for each dressmaker strives for original effects and
no sooner Is a style made popular than II is fol
lowed by another.
Summer hats for the most part set well off the
head and the usual trimming is a wreath OF flowers