The St. Johns herald., 1900-12-15
EUROPEAN CHEESES.
4 Number That Have Become Pop
 ular in This Country.
Each owes It's Character to the Soil and Climate as We'll as to the
 Secrets of Its Makers-A
 Cheese to Swear At. A.t-


 The history of cheese may be con- sidered as condensing the whole pas toral poetry of the Aryan race. The mild and gentle COW, sacred still among the Aryans of India, fell especially to the charge of the women. Our very language proves this. Our word daugh- ter comes from the Sanscrit duhitar, meaning the milker, from the very duo. to milk. Dug, for teat, is doubtless from the same.
 Cheese-making has been a feminine profession from the start, and on some English farms to this very day the money coming from the sale of the cheese is considered as the special per quisite, pin money, of the wife. Eng land has long been famous for the quantity and quality of its cheeses. America, in a wholesale way, is destroy ing all the traditions of cheese. Yet, though America makes cheese by the mountain-load every year, there are not, as in England, France and Italy, any localities famous for special brands.
 The reason is not far to seek. Our cheese factories collect the milk of va rious areas, having different soils and peculiarities of pasturage, and mix them, striking thus an average, eatable indeed, but lacking character.
 It has been proved that the quality depends on the pasturage. Cows, dairy maids and special methods of making have been taken from Cheshire to an- other part of England, and the result was product very different from the famous Cheshire cheese. Cheddar, too, which comes from a vale in Somerset, has flavor for which there is no chem ical counterfeit. It smacks of the soil; it breathes of the pasture.
 Erie comes from a small district near Paris and is cream cheese of unrivaled delicaey. but not easy to keep during warm weather,
 Gamembert, cheese very similar, though coarse in flavor, which is made in large area in Normandy, has been steadily pushing into favor.
 Pont PEveque comes from Norman dy. It is not, as some might suppose, merely camembert gone dry, but is Intentionally made more solid and milder in taste, and is ten per cent. more costly.
 Port du Salut is another cheese of the same order, but superior in flavor to all except true Erie. It costs about the same as Erie, and it may take rank over that, as that has done over Roque- fort, and as Roquefort did over Swiss, which was the first foreign cheese that ever really had hold on the affections of the American stomach.
 Roquefort, though it's price yet is high, is a richer cheese, more fond of lingering on the breath than the others. It is made of goats milk and the chiaro- oscura effects in it are caused, not by rusting it with insertions of wire, but by dropping into it some handfuls of peasant bread.
 Gorgonzola, not French, but Italian, is more expensive than Roquefort, though it's base is the same, namely, the milk of the goat. This cheese comes from the Mflanese district of Italy, re- tains it's aristocratic richness unspoiled by the democratic climate of America, and is good cheese to swear by.
 Wherein it differs from Limburger- good one to swear at.
 Parmesan, another Italian or Sicilian variety, has been kept Is years and found still delicious and full of life and power.
 Neufchatel is a French cheese, not Swiss, as many fancy, from the name.-i T. Y World.