The Saint Paul globe., 1900-06-24
IRISH LACE IS IN FAVOR
THE FANCY OF THE MOMENT FOR
GOWNS AND FOR TRIM
MINGS
BIG SLEEVES ARE SEEN AGAIN
Popular Irish Laces More Beautiful
Than Ever Before, and Used
in Many New Ways
just Now.

trimming and finish, to fill in the interval
between summer and autumn fashions,
and keep the interest in sartorial things
from tagging. Fashion has a reputation
for perpetual 1ckleness which she justly
deserves, yet there are some Indications
now and then, of a tendency to be faith.
ful to some of the charming features of
the modes, one of which is the use of
lace. More and more ways for the dispo-
sItion of this dominating element are con-
stantly appearing. and there seems to be
no limit, except in the cost, to the amount
employed or the modes of using it.
Lace gowns are no novelty, but now we
have long evening wraps of lace In addi-
tion, where the lace is tucked and plated
as If It were indeed fabric 1t IS dec
GRATED, too, with stitched bands Of cloth.
silk and linen, this feature being brought
out In the lace bOleros worn over cloth,
silk and muslin gowns. The irish laces.
which are more beautiful than ever before
ere especially commended by fashion for
various trimmings, arranged in deep
founces, with bands, vests and yokes, for
which the Carrickmacross lace is charm
ing This is an applique lace Of finest
white muslin on fine white lace net, finish
ed with thread embroidery which resem-
bles Brussels point de gaze. Besides.
there is Carrickmacross gulpure, not so
expensive, but very attractive which
comes In ecru tints as well as white. The
crochet laces with which every one is IA
miliar are very popular, and particularly
so in Paris, where their decorative value
is fully appreciated.
All kinds Of laces are employed. If
course, but just at the moment the inter
est in Irish lace Is renewed, with convinc-
ing evidence Of its beauty, by the Partisan
dress designer who, like an artist, know
ing the full value of coIors. can also create
Very striking effects with a combination
of textures. Any elaboration Of the use
OF lace is permissible on our gowns, but
the height of elegance is in the long lace
coats which veil the beauty underneath.
These are chiefly for evening wear. but
are sometimes in the shape of a long, half
fitted paletot, and again the lace is plait-
ed into a yoke falling like loose sacoue
nearly to the hem of the skirt One of the
former shapes is carried out in ecru gllf-
pure, unlined, and as severe in cut as If
II were tailor made. A narrow band of
corded silk finishes the edges all around.
and large white pearl buttons fasten IT
down the front The button holes cut in
the lace being piped with silk. Cloth In
pale colors or white is often used as A fin
lSh for the edge. Lace boleroS are worn
over any kind of material, from cloth to
lhe dalntiest muslin, and with equally
good style the condition is reversed a
cloth OF silk bOlero being worn over a lace
or chiffon bodice
LACE AND LINGERIE UNDER
SLEEVES
The development of the lace and lin
gere undersleeve is progressing finely
despite all the predictions in the early
part of the season that this style of
sleeve would not achieve much distinc-
lon 1t was said that 1t would not be ac-
cepted with any deglke of favor. since
II was said to be unbecoming to the
NeraGe woman, but 1t is a success all
Ehe same, and one of the distinctive feat
ures of the latest gowns. Varied modes
OF decoration are possible. and an in
crease III size is one of the latest changes.
1t IS like so many other features of dress
revival of the style in sleeves worn
forty years ago, and prettily elaborated
and varied by modern taste. The first
underseeVe was rather severe, with the
straight band around the wrist, but
later models have little finish of lace
in the form of a narrow, fiaring cuff fall
ing over the hand ruffle of lace, or
little shaped friu of the material
The wristband is tight fitting in every
instance, and usually finished with a
band of narrow black velvet ribbon at
either edge, whatever the material be-
tween may be- A wristband of wide
gold galloOn, with the velvet on the edges
is very effective for the tan and gray
gowns. Again the band Is made of soft
LoGisine silk, tucked closely and of SOME
pretty contrasting color. The transpar-
a,
ly formed of fine lace nets, with some
dainty pattern scattered over 1t; of chif-
fon, with an applique of lace motifs; OF
alternate bands of finely tucked muslin
and narrow lace insertion, and Of the fin
est thin silk Chiffon puffed is very
pretty, two puffs just above the wrist
band with rows of narrow velvet ribbon
covering the gathers, and one deep puff
above the beginning at the elbow, where
the upper sleeve ends. More puffs may
be used if the arm is slender, and like
everything else in fashion, this under
sleeve can be varied to suit every Wo-
mans particular stlye.
Certainly sleeves of every kind are
prettier than they were in the winter,
for they have increased in size just
enough to give graceful outline to the
shoulders, as well as more comfort to
the arm. All the thin materials are
much pTettier made with the slightly
enlarged dimensions. A pretty elbow
sleeve for some gowns has a short under
sleeve attached. This is of chiffon or
net in the form of a puff gathered into
a narrow band of black or colored velvet
ribbon. which ties in a bow at the back
of the arm, a little below the elbow
The sleeve which ends Just at the elbow
is usually finished with two or three
upturned cuffs. The puff is full and ar
ranged to droop a little, which gives a
flowing effect.
GATHERED SKIRTS IN STYLE.
Still another feature of fashion brought
back from the past is the gathered skirt.
American women are slow to accept it,
but it has the reputation of being the
most up-to-date of all the skirts even
though 1t IS not the most becoming. 1t
Is varied according to the figure the ma
terial being gored partially to avoid un-
necessary fullness around the hips, or
tucked in vertical lines and gathered Just
enough to make it fit. Other skirts have
a gored front breadth, quite plain and
the shirrings begin at either side of this
extending several inches below the waist
line.
Shirred skirts and tucked skirts opening
over front panel of lace or embroidery
are distinctive feature of the new thiI.