The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1900-01-28

! French call Oriental: while National Is
our old friend Yale blue trifle deepened.
Turquoise, Azurine and Paon are distin-
guished, even under French handicap, as
turquoise, azure and peacock.
Maryland, tabac and marion are ia
mfliar tobacco browns. while scale of
yellows run from creme, through paille,
or straw: Ebenier or lemon, to Nemi-
CHAR, and this is brilliant orange. From
the card are missed all dark colorings,
even navy blue. But that need not alarm
us, as we do not go to Paris for our
tailor-made gowns-only for our dressier
costumes and millinery. And these, by
all signs, will be in 1900 from light-colored
materials. The winter passing is a sea-
| son of tints and shades, rather than deep
| tones, excepting black, which is always
| with us modishly.
! Aside from the color card, late steam
ers have brought fresh news of how
| gowns are being made up in Paris and
from what. Here are few of many sim
| liar suggestions:
| What may not a French dressmaker do
with the simplest materials! There is
nothing startling in the notion "a black
taffeta gown" Yet behold the wonder
worked with this ordinary material, a
! good idea, and some white guipure entire
! deux. The princess gown fastens under
| the left arm, and the style of the cos
tune is in its perfect fit, with the light
/ ning-like applications Of lace. A modest
hat IS suitable with this emphatic cos
tune. One is chosen In gray. with decora-
] lions of gray mousseline de sole, gray
! plumes and white roses
An irresistible ceremonious toilette is
from rose satin, draped completely with
| Irish guipure and garnished with narrow
black satin ribbon in waving lines. Where
| the ribbons 1ntersect they pause to knot
into rosettes. The bolero discloses a
narrow black satin-shaped belt beneath.
gilet or waistcoat made from peach
cream satin turns back upon the bolero.
! The chapeau is gray felt, trimmed only
with white roses. And the inevitable muff
| is from chinchilla. Can more bewitching
| color and form in combination be fancied
| Notice the peculiar shape of the hat
! worn with the rose pink costume; a union
| of the usual picture hat, and the poke
| which milliners have not been remark
! ably successful in revivng.
Another Illustration Of the shape is in
turquoise blue felt, ornamented with
| clusters Of black feathers, black velvet
| ribbons and a nosegay of pink roses.
| A gown of ivory faile silk also for cere-
monious wear, Is made with apron-pointed
overskirt. edged with guipure lace and a
| skirt with deep trimming of alternat ting
clusters Of ivory silk and graduated
leIS LIES Oh BuipuTeS.s IN6 fTeIcHWOHdn 5
beloved bolero in this case chances to be
brief and much lace-trimmed, over a
white silk gathered underwaist The hat
is from white parme velvet, trimmed only
with black plumes.
Two variations of the paletot, that
| much-abused garment. come to us. One
Is of beige-colored cloth, trimmed with
strappings Of velvet and stitching in
castor shade. The other is pronounced
garment from nickel-colored heavy cloth,
with revers Of guipure over white satin,
frilled with black liberty chiffon.
The paletot in New York so far has led
feverish life. This coat, originally de-
signed for carriage use. has been adopted
in violent colorings by promenaders Of
varying tastes. It's future Is a matter
of curious interest.
There is not the faintest doubt that the
short box coat Is ugly for street use.
But the longer paletot may possess a saw
ing grace in It's convenience for theater
wear We shall see. And so much for
this weeks budget of French fashions.