The Republican journal., 1900-05-03
ound it--a curious combination of G 9th

n
the Tapia, or indestructible cement. OF
the Moors. The walls enclose the same
area now as in the day of the city's
greatest prosperity, so that the abodes
OF less than forty thousand people
straggle over space that once accom-.
modated million. The vacant spots
thus left are either encountered with
ruins, or are laid out in gardens, in
which fruits and flowers of the tropics
| flourish unprotected in-the open air,
besides productions of the temperate
zone-appleS, peaches. pears, corn and
potatoes coming to perfection, as we'll
as oranges, figs and bananas. But the
royal palms are the special glory of
Cordova. Set thickly in the gardens
and plazas, Haunting their green plumes
far above the house-tops, they are the
| first objects that attract the approach
| ing travellers attention, and the last
he sees when taking a backward look
on his departing journey; and next to
WY NplitttIlul lHpNtIut. littN lllSeI
| longest and most pleasantly in his
memory. 1t is said that all the palms
i'll Spain are descended from one which
Prince Abd-ur-ralman |, brought with
him from the banks of the Euplrates
and planted in the garden of his Cor
doyan palace. The gentle Arabian com
posed sadly-sweet poem to that palm
like himself an exile-which is vet
sung and recited in Spain, akin to that
other homesick wall, La GOlondrona. -
of Mexico.
Cordova is indebted to the Arabs for
the fine aqueduct that brings pure
cold mountain water across a deep val
ley to hundred public fountains
These reservoirs are also excellent
places for observing peculiar phases of
folk-life and so are the plazas, where
the entire population may be seen at
least once every day-the poorer classes
lounging and sleeping through the noon
tide heat, the aristocratS in their rick
ETY. coaches and landaus at the fashion
able sunset hour. The ''Paseo del Gran
Capita so named in honor of Con
salvo de Cordoba, one of Ferdinand's
doughty knights i'll the siege of Grenada
is the principal promenade of the
city. During the day it is quite desert
ed, except for sleeping beggars, its
double rows of orange trees and Japan
csc medlars turning up their dry leaves
white with dust. At night the scene
changes as completely as on the Prado
at Ilabana Bands play, innumerable
Jets twinkle amid the shrubberv.
the air is delightfully."- cool and the blue
dome of heaven hangs its lustrous star
lamps over all. The few noble families.
who keep up ghostly show of antigua
ted state, drive pompously to and fro,
while plehean jewellers swarm the
promenade, or seated at little tables.
sip horchates de chufa. or dulce de
azahas -swectmeats made of orange
flowers and water, essentially Cordovese
in character.
Much more beautiful is the shady
Alameda. with gardens on either side.
where the cool splash Of water from
innumerable fountains mingles with
the music. and the air is heavy with the
fragrance of orange-blossoms,o leanders
and roses. There is also the tree-shad-
ed l'aseo de la Victoria. extending to
the distant railway station: and, the
Rlbera, along the river bank. command
ing a fine view Of the bridge the gypsy
suburb and the crumbling AlcaZar.
BY the way, it was the above-men-
toned Grand Captain" Golsavo, who
originated the saving SO common i'll
Spain that while other cities may be
better to live III. Cordova is eminentlv
the place in which to be born. Its mar
row paths are so roughly paved that to
walk in them is a pemance, and its
house walls, whiteWashed at least once
year. dazzle the suffering eyes. Car
riages are not allowed to enter any of
the principal streets, and into most of
them wheeled vehicles could not possi-
bly, force away. AS twilight approaches
men are seen clingng to the iron
ratings of all the lower balconies, hold
ing whispered conversations with their
sweethearts inside the bars. This is
the only recognized method of court
ship, approved of parents and guardians
since time out of mind, and for a Span
lard to neglect his duty in this respect
would be to brand himself laggard in
love, unworthy the smiles of any
Senorita.
a century ago there We're many rich
and populous monasteries in Cordova !;
but nearly all of them have been desc
Grated, or turned into schools and hos
pitfalls. Prominent among the few that
remain is Santa Marta. of the Jerony-
mites: the monastery of the Padres de
Garcia, near the barracks of Alfonso II !:
and the Fuen Santa, just outside the
city walls The once-wealthy convent
of La Trinidad is now occupied by corps
of RemOnta de Cordoba, or Govern
mont Horse traiuprc whose hlIcjnnSC ic