The age-herald., 1900-03-11
THE SIGHTS AND SCENES IN HAVANA
 DESCRIBED BY BIRMINGHAM WOMAN
The Season in the Cuban Town is Made Interesting by the
 Thongs of American Visitors

in close proximity. 1t is impossible to dis- tinguish by the exterior private residences from the shops. The roofs are all heavily tiled and the houses are constructed or stone which is cemented and then palnteo the most vivid blues and greens and yell lows The sidewalks are extremely narrow and like the streets are paved with Bel gian block.
 'T.he. fashionable residence district in Havana is known as the Vededo, or In other words, the boulevards. The houses are but one story high and are painted with the beautiful azure tints that seem to reflect the colors of the tropical sky.
 "At dinner party in one of the most elegant private homes in Havana at which a small party of Americans were present, I enjoyed the privilege of seeing the en- tire exterior of Cuban home that was presided over by one of the most beautiful and fascinating women in Havana. She and her husband had spent many years in London and in New York, and felt as if l was a guest at dinner party Tn my own country. Among the wealthy Cuban classes, Spanish is, of course, the lam guage, but French is also spoken. | found that my years of devotion to learning the French language stood me in good need and I really talked in French the greater part of the time because English was so rarely understood. Especially did ap- preciate my little knowledge of French on the evening that our party were guests at the Spanish club. My escort was member of the Spanish legation and he spoke French perfectly. We had fortu- nately no difficulty In understanding each other as long as we conversed in French, but if I occasionally spoke in English and he in Spanish, conversation became some- what labored.
 ''The Spanish club was quite gay the evening that we drove through the streets of Havana. 1t was the occasion of the annual carnival ball. and I was surprised to see the Cuban and Spanish beauties in the latest Parisian gowns. They arranged their hair after the American style, and with the la mode totlettes, the ballroom had the appearance of one in this country. The Cuban waltz, however, and the Cuban music are such distinctive features of so- ciety that I am glad to say they are not Amercians. The music Is a mingling of tom-t toms, flutes, violins, comets and gourds, the latter instrument making a shuffiing sound that Is absolutely fearful. melody floating out across Cuban ball. room sounds not unlike the music that one hears in the Midway, and yet much or 1t reminds one of Mexican airs.
 The bands play in all the public places and the warm climate Is conducive of thronging the streets with hundreds of Cuban senoritas with the typical lace mantila.
 'Tt is only, however, the lower classes who wear this picturesque head dress in the streets or who indeed are seen stroll ing in any public place. The high-bred Cuban women with Spanish blood in her veins never appears in public without her duenna. and she is attired in the latest crea ton from Paris or probably from New York. There are hundreds of swagger traps in Havana and the wealthy class fully appreciate the luxury of driving. I was surprised to find the streets of IIa- vana so clean and was told that a street ordinance had been recently enforced in regard to the waste barrels that are placed along the streets
 The floors of all the residences and shops in Havana are either of white marble or broad tiles and the windows are without glass, but have a heavy grating and finished with inside shutters. The bath rooms In the elegantly appointed Havana home are of white marble.
 "A Cuban woman takes her daily plunge into this pool which is square with marble steps. The Cuban woman prefers cold water to hot, and her bath room is not ever-equdpped with hot water facilities. 1.-The American woman who wants warm bath at her Havana hotel must make special arrangements with the maids.
 ''The Havana belle has her cup of black coffee, however, before she takes her cold water plunge and at 1 o'clock in the day she enjoys her breakfast, while her proto- type in America takes her lunch. Dinner in Havana means an elaborate menu with quantities of wines and indeed, wines are also drunk at breakfast.
 1.-The life of Cuban woman in the upper classes is one of extreme idleness. I said to my friend whose official capacity in the Spanish legation, together with his good looks made him quite a favorite among the Havana belles, that I was anxious to know how Cuban woman employed her time between the years of her girlhood and marriage"
 With a most expressive shrug he replied f an6 thn asked if they did not read, sew, make lace or were interested in practical things that the American girl enjoyed, but he declared that the wealthy Cuban girl indolent and languorous and cared nothing for an active life. After she is married he- household cares become greater and the duties of maternity transform her indif- ference into interest for others. but even then the lazy existence that has marked her life still characterizes her mode of living"
 'Gt is this indolent life that gives the