The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-10-14
ONIONS. TRIPE AND EELS.
DAINTY DISHES 70 M WADE or
SOVE BLICKLiNTED fOODN.
Hcalthful Qualities Of the Onion. widespread
Antipithy to the Contrary N"t"l'h'
standing CorrccuNes for Its odotS
Methods Of preparing ISlpc and Ecls.

] ttl- tlfN OF fl-tNItTf CANNOT nave llI"' W.
notice that the mere mention Of certain dishes,
not to any their actual presence on the bill or
fare. causes an uplifting Of eyebrow, and fitting
of noses II hus become u sort Of boarding.
house fashion in fact to declare these black
listed food rs being NJ only for degenerate
and uurenucd appctiteS and the person daring
enough to raise a vote, In defence Of any one Of
them il looked upon a, belonging low In n"
social scale
No amount Of epicurcan backing from SaIa'
Du Maurier and ThaCkeray, who were excellent
cooks A. well ~ men Of Letters, will ever HIT
the onion from the position 1t occupies IA king
Of the dr-pised foods. The prejudice that eN-
ist, against the onion h stronger even than
it, own fragrance and II IL rigidly excluded
from mention I'm fashionable bills OF fare At
though. IL D., rarely omitted from the prepaTa-
ton of certain popular soups. sauces ana dr"1S-
Ing. although it is not made prominent rs ono
Of the ingredients.
II i, not so I'm boarding houses, where the
chronic female hoarder who feels that she has
q position to sustain hns trained her nose to a
swift detection Of the vegetable and delights
to declare her discovery aloud, thus proclaim
irg herself to be Of fine md aristoCratic tastes.
Therefore in nine out Of ten Of the so-ctlied
fashionable boarding houses, the onion Is pr1c-
tIelly prohibited and this contributes, much
10 tho hack OF taste In the food that prcdomI-
nut,, at the tables Of the Establishments
The wonderfully healthful qualities OF the
onion are generally admitted even by Its enc
mIr. Many old-roshionrd homemade rcm"-
dies for all known ills contained s)me portion
of the vegetable.
elsewhere the onion has been raised from iis
degradation by cpiouroan authorities and Its
good qualities arc fully recognized in the prep
n-g,l.r ,f ,artYIu dIshr,. In fact these very
...,.u- ,l...J ,I. ,utiro
''""'''H nav ''' a., d. ,,
list %, dosois"d foods AMONG III" FIRST IN INC
i-t ,r ,dihI, d,ir,,.-. The two recipe books
.,..- y.ah.r,- ,y DOL
''Ini'''' 10y '"' '''' y nun, ,a.fr,
. mDuI.DS and bv oscar, ia" present mature
l,", -, a., N.ll,,f giy, dozen, of methods
VI "''' ..,u ~ for s,-v5rg
Tor cooking il' onion ~ "'l ~ '"' '"s
II ruy I'm salads and there arc few OF the best
.,u,,.- and either made dishes that do hot in
cludc tl' d.-iI-"d vegetable among 'h'lr
un''~-aE factor -
''Ilub "l 'N' NOR II,"i ~ 49,
,or'" th" 9..'N Al It's h,'' >'l9"u7 '' n, ~
has not rl.-r' l!' .'-"''I'' y" my a.
favor, a. i"N Viii be Ioi'H HNn'k eit' 1,,n" ~
brave lIhU' 'i..'' anu ib lN" .,,,t
puuloIy, ana NaHl l'l"li.'. It.ri va noi,L
a. APOLOGY. one u't' a., rue u.s. i''ra ~. N,IrI mn
Utt.a grace bN utIo.o Who are uoh-'h'''r itH
therefore consider tu" consumption ui NO
Innocent onion "a an unlhIdu'du.e SIN At"HI0'
good ta,'' r.., ro o,i,r 10 ,t FIRST.
,r rnur.s based IrUu h., -tror@ AID ll-'iuE
odors which,. iti- said hy onion hat"rs, rcrmGt,"
The odor of the onion IL one Of those tllns- NAT
i. useless to DENY. But there ar" various
otIcr foods, both LIQUID aud soid, Tossing
unite ~, dl~agrrodble a strength that are never
I1rwTcntad uppu aud are In constant us". lh"
Glove, and spices Used 10y the wan VII" t,'1
oIt bptNeen the acts aud regarded by many
9. mira objectionable than the original evil
are oiltc a. chc.tiye AN autidote for Tie Use
q. n-.iII I,. 9ay,i.-t Tho Use Of alconoic beyc...".
,rHI ,'avar hs.omoa A. decp seated ~ that against
tl. onion.
The French. a reogle OF good COX r ', = ,
the onion and no chef considers a sauce" lvLI't
yitl5ut som" t1lch Of Its flavor. The German
vastly appreciate the uniGn, especially IN lne
form NJ Chivc- which hc adds To- hl-,rnule rs vs."
Adj unvia-cI parsley. ~ a tuishins touch.
Many NJ TIE German restaurants m Now l"ik
serve the onion Ia various apI"'z ~ WAYS ana
one popular place l. famous for rs fresh poi
cho"~" with cita"ay seeds ana curves ~ an
aoy.wuauiw"nt ro -
garlic. Dr. .- rs precious 90 nm a. " mean I ~
tu" Boston MN but wlllc me 1qgi o., 1' 40
uutll'te- arc 1S many ani are !,'lI' a. "u'''l Nc
y- thu-" Of it, big ,hi"il"L, We "ii," All
most ("'I,Ii Tlhi ui'Ns,nXIi In nI ll,',n iIr
with the 1'i or tcl"Nt" % E|rIlI tn"'t u'mH INK
inside % I'll" bowl or 4 the wooden spoon WIN
WHICH r-Ial' e Mlf'H, and choose that
cgH,IHy I.,nns- ,r. 'ag ]eentireIy sufficient correct
i've for any to-,lnl' tracer 'lu 4t'{T nv"
wl'nIfS. ,r.r'i s'nSar am ythil'i ',lI ~
] '|llLS' I''. Do. = '' - 81
tr" also r'e''lN" Tor lII'-r VIZ" ,'.
onion mlH--lh.' ~" SIaIli oI',' ,.tl.,
who's" utu"a are .Inn~' 'ulIll" w. W @
IT, he AZ l~, A. tho NllctTlI'H' ll w. 'r
urIu.!s~s " IN" "Nl'l' -'''.!+ ~ ID, ~
dinner tables nui tmN''lhS 'I'-' tl,'I ~ NV
bon h1Ir ana f'N'- N~ en- ~, .INI l'uu .
"a mo American u7'l'h rises III I."L'''9 WI
th~ cuisine tH" urejudlre 9G"l4,' l'' onion
. Hrl against other 81 lN" u'''t N7v'H l"'lI
will grow less, whll" the lhNtt'ialr slII' L',Il
and fhr o~GrrI"-- onion eater VIII always "'
} Ol ior''oulu.c.
The lu'o Thomas Murrcy, 60 long famous as
70 re-'uurH'.ur. was ON" ol the DEFENDER NI l'i
onion. We sid ih0f iu' ErhrIAHN '&INI
American ahhnrrenoo for the vegetable was
am aNrgtltiuu and that many ~ u" most pro
uuuurcl dt--euters were often So, r'NyLnIg
I'm auupD- frIlv rocking with the 0tvur oI IN"
/ olD.i'r-na- bulb and its cousins.
I'll. ,4luc grren onions which ar" an market
iu t... srriug arc now to be had from the hot
houses md are capable of preparation in nu-
r,-nu1 gurrtlliug wavs, and being especially
LI..lfa n. flavor when very young they, VIII,
rr,,rh,r.. ls most appreciated by the anti
,.I.r ..i.r WHO wishes To overcome his pref
nlira They must first be carefully washed
ir ..1, yr1.rr fhp root, and tops trimmed and
tI.r tra nrll0s tied again I'm small lunches.
1arros, ,,r.t he nm over ne fire IN boiling slltod
',..,.r md cooked for ten minutes. lui- time
,W',,,r,, "T,, H. inv the very Young Ones = longer
,i., 80 h., allowed in prouor'lon They are
80, dr,ip.J mud plocrd on drv toast with
~ I,,tor aud reurer and ar. served hot.
NJ S,rrfsb anton 'WIirh f. upV i'm season.
.oa,ns ., H., No e4'ubIi-lr1 flvurltr for both
.'f|INT W. A- W.