Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-01-27
Famous Dishes and High Prices at the
Big Resorts.
DINING REGARDED as A FINE ART
Places Where One Goes to Look
On Rather Than to Eat.
WONDERS OF GASTRONOMY


always a;rr current one man has taken a
woman to Paiilard's, in the Champs Ely
ssts, where = little dinner'-aIways vague
cost him 2Dr francs. Another simply
stepped into Voisin's with his wife-an hon
Est man, that-and was made to give up
$50 for "a few baked nothings." 1t is never
the hernes OF the tales who tell them. The
adventures happen to "a friend of mine.
or to "a Nun / met These gentlemen you
mret, Now that the exhibition year has
come. to raise the price of everything, these
tales of extnrtion may at times be found
10 have some real foundation, but in pres
,nce Of them one should not forget the say
ing of the hpuIevard-on whose faith many
bet has been won-that no man can eat
S,n worth Of food in any Paris restaurant.
This IL not 81 terrifying to the exhibition
-rudrrfpot when it is remembered that
Paris * peculiarly a city of prIneurS. Hot
Inus.. fruits and vegetables utterly out OF
st-fSpn figure as non halantly the menus
ii thcS restaurants as do beans upon In"
hill Of fare in BrSt"u. There are s.aS"r<
of the year in many a great city when yea
caunut hay = melon for its weight in gold.
"r peaches ~ cherries. Hr asparagus. ls:
why ORDER them in Paris? The Ina-E
Il nctei NJ PGiilari' slid he darr-wouid Ts-
perfectly willing 7" Explain to you ttut
nothing T. al ! u he gained by plut kim
and eating the fruit of the dear iitti.
cherry TIES growing IN porcelain pots thdt
the walters sometimes hand about wren
man has pretty girl beside. him Six dol
lars. OF course. You may take the tra"
away with yrI and plant it in your back
yard: hut Il substantial ice cream costs
much less certainty it i embarrassing Z"
tell hcr No; 80 cat If the fruit thereof SHa
will want To- pluck the fruit. GTAeIc l. a~
historical PRECEDENT TIL obvious way on
of il. therefore. is no, To take yUiir cir. -
Paillard'S- 80 alone.
Rate of Increase.
AT the Caf,. DE- Paris. Vosins. Pslilla L >
ard Larues they declare that the exhihi-
1i.n rise Will not he more than - per cent
The mairrr thutel II Duraud's has No.
given his attention to the matter y,.-
wii' is also practically the reply ii ,A-
AIaspn Doree. the Tour d'Argent. Foyrr $.
MarEu"rv's the Restaurant Mare and '--
cafe ArsiIis. and when NJ. MargusTg ~
presiding officer Of the Syndicat de- Ii
mUradicrS IL Paris. refuses to- cOrlni-
hiElSs II ii may be taken that the r!-- i--
rate of s"uSinG has not been decided "a.
Md here another question rises MIR
gr.ery-s. = restaurant really of the m:Gii
class. il chiefly noteworthy because s.
mans Americans have learned 20 run to j.
t"r its Special sole with Norman suGss
delicious Wonderful. They say f;ar
sauce i made in ? locked room by Re .-
cook in the world who knows now 20 cr,G-
~truct it What frolishne~s, Six vars AZ.
il was simply sole. sauce Normandy; ,a-
Gay il j. sole MargUery," or 1.-The sci -
the house, but always a mISsel juir7.
shrimp paste and oyster sauce done in but
ter and white wine. OF course. il = good.
hut il y noJ ths only Paris dish Of which =,
take HON" remembrance, as happ"n"6 -
~ many Apart from this dish ana L.
American clientele. the Restaurant Mar
query Is really middle class. like Brebau-'+
Vans. l-avenne's. and he Pnussrt bra--
- rieS- Excellent restaurants. their Ia ry,r-
are. nevertheless. not Of the high noe: a'.I
one does not ray-as do the fond outsid- Is
at MaNfni's-to sit and watch the believe ell
deyni-m"ll,ic mess over its supper
Expensive Resorts.
This fcrtiiEg of the eye comes highest Is
ALL and will md its climax next summer in
The sporty. typical restaurants d'ete. HI
sparkling. Eiddy sylvan hooks of the ave-
nue. of the champs Elysees and the Bots.
lit up with fairy lamps at night beneath the
stars the lurking places of expense. Last
summer the Bellevue talong the river. On
The heights between MeUdon and SevresJ
vas noted Tor peculiar atrOcitieS-Such a
charging Belgian and his wife 81 30 frr
three p"ach-d eggs. the fourth being ""aly
good in parts as he expressed il in a lef-
Ter to the Figaro They charged ''fii..l.ls
of mine" x; for a melon at time when
melons could BE- had for fifty Gems each.
The SEASON of these reSortS-for hey are
resorts. not ressaurants-is short. and lad
weather may cause them 10 end il with
loss This l. one excuse for OVercharGiiIl:
and they have ttnother-they can get 'he
money There are plenty willing t. pay
them their prices.
At the Chateau de Madrid in the fill
Bots: at the Bellevue, on the heights above
the Seine whore it is faires,. a the Psvii-
lon d-Armenonville. the country club OF the
fast set: and at the Ambassadors. The
Champs Elysaes' quintessence for the sport
ing foreigner. their strong point IS the spec
raCle Of eaycty- And. irueed. il Is a gJr-
sseDuS sight To watch these ladies' enter
ing with tf'"ir lords and masters OI the day
UlIEhaD train
followers like ASpasia Corinna. TO take
tayOrits tables. kept for them on the mere
hope that they may turn up 70 grace the
feast and advertise the shop. Their skirts
rustic. their gauzy chiffous sparkla with
ieweled pins and buttons. they wear great
fantastic collars. row on row of prdris
their rnrsIec il a cons citation Of diamonds
and thrir immense hats are poems If
posies
One Way to See.
To So III this one must pay. There :
one device. however known and dreaded
alike ny walters and proprietors. whereby
The COS, OF The spectacle may be kept down
10 its Strict minimum. aud as such l rec
Onmend IL 70 as many exposition visitors
- may think they have the stotd courage
% carry IL through. y soup d meat t!=n
u salad cf vegetables to follow. three
franc bottle OF ware. and. thyE, COFFEE
what can the outraged waiter do ta the
inperturbable couple who have managed TO
obtain Il table and give such All order?
heep tht N waiting Tor edCH iI-l< Fsut
they hsty- come precisely 10 stay a. long as
possible. Serve the no; dishes cold ard The
Geld dishes hot? They Will not carc-5bey.
have not come 10 eat Cruel enigma,
Famous Restaurants.
when ii comes 10 the restaurants where
one e;tts-the restaurants of the town
Americans often are disappointed with their
appearance. Like me Paris theaters. y here
the expense is put upon the birds rather
than on the cage. nearly al! Of them are
what We would call dingy aH1 oId-fsish-
Toned, although Paillard's boulevard estab-
liShment-the riCkietest Of the !nt-has jaSt
IL. en- remadc. anu most OF n" others have
icone IN for new paint and gliding beoause
% the exhibition And some Of ,he best of
tlcse otd-fashioned Restaurants rejoice in
o!d-faShioned dishes. Nitllout setting up
for TOO much Of eNpert. ! would place
he MaiSon Doree first. and [oiSin's Nl'h
a., in the first rank. Yet one u the most
celebrated dishes Of the former Is d ul1s
-: chicken wings and turnps. Both stab
H-hmentS follow The good cli French ira
diIion~. without being too Partisan. La
bonnie merchandise says GJs'ave. There
Is nothing else exciaims Henri 81. Mon-
reS-for this is the hind name cf The world