Vermont phÅ“nix. [volume] (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1834-1955, 1900-08-03

There is much said about the brilliant
men who invent things, but nothing IS
ever said about the women who pass
days and nights in thinking up new
things in the way of novelties in the cut
or the trimming of new Clothes and vet
one is as mich of an invention as the
other, only one counts and the other
does not We have but limited number
of things to make from, but with the in
ventive genius of the designers it is as
if we had ten thousand. All this wisdom
was called forth by seeing new depar-
ture in the arrangement of the trimming
on new dress And this trimming is
very novel and quite as effective as if it
had cost $1,000. The dress in question
is of khaki cloth, and the skirt is made
so that there is bias seam down the
front of the skirt, and around the bottom
there is band of bias khaki. and this is
stitched on 10y cardinal saddlcrs' silk in
three lines. Small as this is, it really
makes a handsome garniture and Il finish
to the skirt. The bodice is Il most elab-
crate affair, though it does not look so to
the uninitiated. The back of it is in
one piece, as are so many of the newest
waists, and is smooth across. In front
at the top there are four graduated plaits
and below them the stuff is drawn so
that it fits without darts. Over this is a
plastron of khaki, and this is arranged
so as to simulate a vest front with white
lapels of linen and a collar of dark
brown linen. The plastron was stitched
In bias lines, and across that there were
several tabs, with mother Of pearl but
tons There was a belt crossed at the
waist line, and this, too, had two of the
buttons.
1t is not so many years since we had
buttons that were real works of art The
most of them had mother of pearl for a
foundation, and the precious metals were
used to further decorate them. There
were rehausse and repousse work on
many of the oXidiZed silver ones and the
bronze ones were worthy a place among
he arts. Then buttons went where old
fashions go, and we had little bags full
Of the buttons we needed no longer. But
now we can fetch them out, for buttons
are in, and so are ribbons, as trimming
for dresses, more particularly the light
ones. Many ways are devised for their
1se, but they are decidedly in again, and
that very suddenly The most general
way of using them as yet is to lay the
narrow, feathered edge kind fiat along, as
though it were but braid. Bunches of
loops with floating ends are much liked
tor setting on sleeves, on waists and also
On skirts where the material or the shape
makes such trimming seem suitable. The
fact is that nothing ~ as pretty and
graceful as ribbons on. light dress, and
he black velvet ribbon in narrow widths
IS to be more than ever a fayorite trim
ming for all sorts Of gowns, from null
TO woolens Velvet ribbons are, above
all, adapted to a wide variety of goods
and garments, and on hats they are sim
ply beautiful.
Enough about velvet ribbons, and let
rs say few words about the lovely new
iress that was made abroad for Miss
May GOelet, the "daintiest darling of
ILL.," Miss Goelet looks just as her love
Y mother used to look, and her taste in
iress is exquisite. She dresses as be-
zones a girl of her age, and, though nat
lrally her gowns cost a good deal. as
must those of any millionaire, it does not
blow that any clever young lady can
lot have exactly such a dress if her
leart says so and she is willing to make
herself. a picture of the dress is here
20 show how it looks. 1t is of figured
)rgandie in soft greens and pinks. At
he bottom of the skirt are three tucks
Ind above them a simulated overskirt
outlined with two rows of feather edge
1bbon in pale pink, and below that is n
handsome arrangement of lace, with
Itar of lace in each of the points. The
waist is a blouse shape, with a yoke
made of tucked organdie, and the same
cheme of trimming is carried out there
IlsO-viz, the points and the lace and
ibbOn-and the very long sleeves are
made in the same style. There is a self
rush belt edged with the ribbon in two
ows. If one of the richest girls in Amer
ca and one of the most tasteful can be
atisfed with a simple organde frock, it
eems TO me that all the girls ought to go
for elegant simplicity also. But, then,
is not always possible, for those whose
Incomes are limited must make some sac
ihce to keep up appearances.
Miss May Goelet is now at Newport
ind is the most popular of all the girls