Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-02-17
SEPARATE WAISTS
A Chapter on These Useful Articles
and Their Variations.
TIE new HANDKERCHIEF BODICES
White Silk as Well as the Persian
Goods in Demand.
COLLAR NDSOFT CUFFS

special correspondence OF Evening SUR.
NEW YORK. February H. 1900.
AS all indications point to the continued
popularity of separate skirts and coats,
and most of those coats are very short
boleros, the silk bodices are more impor-
tant feature than ever before of everyday
dress. Not of elaborate dress mind you,
but of the Saturday, Sunday, Monday
coat and skirt, and separate waist.
For the rule still holds good that for oc-
casions such as dinners receptions where
wraps are laid aside, and all entertainments
where one does not sit in an orchestra chair
and ruin a well-hung skirt. the bodice must
be made of the same material the rest
of the gown.
There could be few novelties, one would
think. in silk waists, and this is quite right
but just this very week the handkerchief
waist has made itself known. and the only
danger now is that 1t will come down from
its lofty height of novelty and later appear
in the 59-cent stores. For it is very gay
and sure to be an immediate faVorlte with
all seekers after something new and strik-
ing The handkerchief waist is simply
a waist made of four handkerchiefs, and
variations of it have appeared before in the
shape OF handkerchief fronts or revers.
But we have passed all that, and now one
may buy in q few of the shops these four
gayly colored bandana or Persian-looking
a11alrS WIN d S1rlklIlS ana poi-
der of some frank rainbow hue. take it
home and puzzle over the combination. In
price these handkerchiefS range from 81
apiece. when they have simply hemmed
borders, to 81 or s.. In the latter case they
are of softer shades, and have been raveled
out into a silk-fringed border, or they may
even be made of panne velvet, and the rich-
ness of the result of combining this into
bodice may be imagined.
Great Variety Possible.
J. -
these handkerchefs there are generally two
colors. For instance, one of taffeta had
back and sleeves of white taffeta, and re-
vers, collar, sleeves and belt of taffeta in
soft Persian pattern, the red shades pre-
dominating while about collar, revers and
belt went the soft silk fringe which fin
ishes the borders of the handkerchiefs, and
which has to be cut off from them and APP
piled in the proper place as trimming. L
think in a waist of this sort, where either
black white or solid-colored taffeta was
a part of the scheme, that it would be less
expensive to buy the taffeta by the yard
and simply buy the two handkerchiefs
which would be needed for revers and trim
ming.
Handkerchief waists, as well as all other
waists which are not boned and fitted, are
unlined. 1t Is probably this desire for unlined
waists which is causing a slight reaction
against taffeta. Taffeta when made into
waists is very pretty, no doubt; it comes in
DeduIllul SLdueSb IL KEEPS It's CTlspIeSS anu
freshness of line no other silk does. but
1t cuts and splits in so shocking a fashion
that it must not only be carefully protect
ed by Innings, but one must remember to
keep ones elbows off the table in order to
keep it from wearing away at once.
On that account the softer silks, surahs
and fouards are being taken up, and the
popularity of the henrietta, nuns yelling
and other wool weaves which have a soft
fold and firm surface grows rapidly.
Popularity of White.
In more elaborate bodices the first effect
one must have is Of white. think about the
rest of 1t later. Either you must have a
white yoke, which can be square if you are
tired Of the round ones. or you must have
a white vest, of seither lace or silk, and
either plain or full and soft; or You must
have alternate stripe of lace and silk, the
lace to have white under it. And II you
think this Is too much trouble don't bother
about 1t at all. Just make your waist of
white altogether, the more lace there is on
it the better. and You win be quite correct
in your taste.
The white season is by no means at an
end The white coat Innings necessitated
white waists, and the whole effect was SO
pretty and becoming that with the dawn of
white effects grows more violent than ever
BoIero and Ffchu Fronts.
In the desire to makeza little change in
the shirt-waist model. which IS after all.
the standby for wear with coats and skirts,
even II the coats happen to be boleros
brief, an old model has been revived with
success. and that is fichu fronts coming
from under the arm and tying over the
bust. These fronts are added after the
waist is fitted, and they may be edged with
lace, or the hens may be embroidered, but |
whatever is done they must have ichu |
points, which simulate careless knot
where they meet. For slight figures moth |
ing better could be imagined.
The effect of fullness given by the reyers |
on the waist illustrated are not a novelty, |
but they have been worn very little, as
none but good dressmakers can drape WELL |