Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-03-17
Most of Them Are Elaborately
Trimmed.
But SIMPLER MAKES ARE THE BEST BEST
The Fancy Ones May Bring About
Their Downfall.
STITCHED COLLARS AND BELTS

NEW YORK, March 10, 1900
Shirt waists themselves may be divided
into two sections, but the minds of the
women who wear them are unanimous in
desire to get their cotton ones together
and put them on early as possible. In
fact, this city has gone shirt waist mad, and
one turns with relief from the gaudy
squares or handkerchief waists which
fiaunt themselves in many shop windows
to the few displays of plain, well fitted,
cotton, linen, wash flannel silk waists
The two sections into which shirt waists
may be divided are the trimmed and I'M
trimmed. Some authorities are congratu-
lating the great shirt waist public which
is just now busiiy engaged in getting to-
gether either through purchasing or needle
work its most important summer garment
on the fact that the article in question has
at last become truly feminine" Alas! it
has departed from its former simple estate,
and it only remains to be seen whether its
new Splendor will not in the end accom-
plish its downfall.
For there is no Disgusting the fact
that the new waist with its clinging sleeve
and embroidered or pointed cuff its elab-
crate collar and trimmed body, made usual
ly or transparent material, appeals ire
sistibly to the great majority of women
What will be the result? Tucked, ruffied
and hemstitched waists will not stand the
will have to go to the cleaners, and the
tendency to wear them just once more be-
fore they undergo the expensive process of
renovation will be yielded to with the re-
suit that shirt waists will lose their fresh
ness. And when they are no longer i'm
maculate may they at once descend to
oblivion.
Useful Belonging.
OF course, a few separate waists of sheer
material and dainty coloring or perhaps
clearest white, to be worn with white or
even gray tan skirts are very well in
their way. and extremely becoming to slight
figures. But to yield to the temptation
which corfronts one in the shops to have
endless numbers of trimmed and very thin
separate cotton waists is a mistake.
1t Is so easy in summer to have skirts
and bodices alike of some pretty and mex
pensive material that the shirt waist should
be kept in Its place as an informal garment
and afternoon should be graced by frocks
whose leading material is repeated through
out.
cling to the simple shirt waist well made
and absolutely spotless and fresh two il
lustrations are given. one an extremely
plain white linen shirt, and the other re-
lieEed by old-fashoned cording in groups of
three. The corded waist is Of nainsook
which Is rather thinner than the ideal
SHIRT waist material But cording has been
revived even in wash materials and there's
no gainsaying its elasticity so different
from the formality of tucks
Yokes Have Gone.
These shirt waists are both made without
a yoke in the back. This absence of yoke
is an inevitable feature of the new shirt
waist, and it is going to lead to much
trouble. 1t will be simply impossible to
Keep shirt in place successfully if it
has no yoke to fit it to the shoulders and
start 1t trim and straight upon its down.
ward path to the waist line. Lining the
back of shirt waist makes it somewhat
warmer, but this is the best way to over
come the difficulty; and even this method
cannot be employed If the material is so
thln that the lining would show through
or course, there are various little details.
which mark the different shirt waists sent
out by the various houses which have a
reputation for making smart shirts at
fancy prices. One house has three box
pleats on the shoulder which run about as
far down as yoke would do. They are
small box pleats. of course. and to com
plete the idea these shirt waists are also
made with three box pleats in the hack
running from collar to waist line and
stitched all the way down. The cuffs on
these waists are very narrow and have the
erect OF being put on after the shirt is
completed, as they are stitched at both
ends. '
Another Pretty Style,
another firm makes narrow tucks, which
are graduated like pointed yoke. These
little details can all be changed according
to fancy. 1t is the cut on which the success
of the waist depends. Much attention is
now paid to the shape of a shirt waist
under the arms. Near.y all patterns have
an extra side piece. In most cases. how
ever experience has proved that 1t is hest
to pin this side piece onto the back before
cutting the waist, thus having the shapeli
ness of the side piece, but making only one
gether. PN' ~
To say that it is the cut on which the
shape OF the shirt waist depends is
to leave out a most important factor
and that Is the way in which it is
worn. One must stand straight. ele-
vate the chest and hold the abdomen in.
To lay stress on this particular noint
In a garment which is primarily made
for ease and comfort seems a para
dox 1t would seem that attention to
the carriage, while always desirable,
was more necessary when one had
on boned and snugly fitted waists. It would
be delightful. of course, if every woman al
ways carried herself WELL but not one tight
bodice in hundred is so made that its
Wearer can take the proper position and NOT
find she Is uncomfortably nipped at the
waist line, pinched in the shoulders or