The Washington weekly post., 1900-12-18

woven The printed shirtings are per-
| Gales. They are made in this country,
but the very best qualities come from
| France, The woven shirtings are various.
They come in different weights and also
| in different weaves. Cheviots are light
| woven shirtings; madras Is little heavier
| than cheviot, and panama or oxford is a
| great, heavy basket weave shirting, and
only used in neglige or soft shirts.
| We have covered the technical part of
| shirtings first, before going into the fash
| ions.
We will take up the shirts that men
| should wear, the collars that should go
| with them. and the cuffs. The standard
| evening shirt is made OF linen. When We
| say linen. We mean that the bosom and
| the cuffs are mGde of linen. The body of
! the dress shirt is made of English lawn
| cloth, which is a soft. comfortable fabric
| The best evening shirt is made in what is
| known as the coat fOrm"-that is, II
opens all the way down the front The
advantages of this shirt are manifest. A
| man dressing for the evening may shave.
| arrange and complete his toilet, before
| putting on his shirt; then he puts on his
shirt. Just as he would put on a coat, and
| as the shirt goes on very easily there Is no
danger of mussing or crumpling the
BOSOM
Cnfs Must BE Attached.
All dress shirts have cuffs attached. The
cuffs should be from l-2 inches to
inches deep, have hand made brttonhOles
and slightly rounded corners. The stitch
ing is about 3-l6 OF an inch from the edge.
The bosom also has handmade button
holes and Sic of an inch stitching. All the
buttonhoIes Of the garment are nand
made The collar TO go with the evening
shirt should be a straight stander with d
slight spacing in the front. or tapping.
The collar should be square and the stitch
ing should be the same as that on the
shirt.
The same shirt that is worn in the even
ing is also worn with the afternoon dress;
that is every formal function which oc-
curs during the daytime
Colored shirts are worn only with busI-
ness dress. In colored shirts the stripes
run up and down the bosom. There are
very few OF the erOss-stripes sold, and
fashion does not sanction them.
There are several noteworthy improve
ments Ia colOred shirts which the layman
may know nothing about. One Of these is
the new form OF shirt tail Instead OF
giving a man the full broad bowl shspes
tail. the new shirt han pointed TAIL tt.ss
is. there Is no superiili0us cloth. The ad-
vantages OF this poin,ed tailsd shirt are
that It gives a smoother front TO the
trousers. This Is specially desirable in
evening dress. which Is made Of light
fabric and shows all the wrinkles Of
big shirt tail The pointed tail does away
with this objection
tsilar- for All Fsees.
Very few men study the collar question
properly. Collars should At the face as
well as the neck. We mean By this thai
what II becoming for one style of face
often is not becoming 10 another. Take
three distinctive types OF msn-the very
stout man with the double chin: the mar
of the Frederic Remington type. the hlxn
checked. raw-bonea "Fank," and the av-
erage, fuli-face. round-chln man.
The stout man has a short neck. hi
chin il very full. Now In order 10 bring the
head well into the collar. and make one a,
the other without any break. we r,as,
have a collar which flares in front ~
takes In the line OF the chin. These eal-
lars are technically termed "pokes." Ths,
are OF moderate width, and the wlx,h
must, IN every case. suit The hslgh. of fha