The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-04-08
THE MAKING OF MAcARoNI.
An Italian EscuIcnt Over Two Thou
sand Years in Use.

sand Years i'm Use.
| To Italy must be given the credit OF in
venting the word and the dish of macaroni
writes Mrs. F. B. Clark, a resident OF
Rome in the "Epworth Herald How
many centuries ago the Italians began to
make this popular article OF food no one
seems TO know II is unfortunate, as n
matter Of history. that no bits Of the pasta
were found at Pompeii in the excavations,
but it is possible that even 1900 years ago
it was manufactured and eaten with enjoy
ment.
I More macaroni is made near Naples than
in any other part of Italy. There is one
| small village lying along the shores of the
Mediterranean where two large manufac-
| tories turn out many kill of pasta each
day 1t is said that attempts to make
nearly good macaroni in other countries of
Europe have Jailed. because it must be
prepared with a certain flour made from
a peculiar grain. similar to wheat which
is grown only in these southern chimes. The
flour is called seminole, and is exceedingly
nutritious. Being mixed with water. il is.
while hot, pressed through a tube. through
variousiy formed openings, the result being
vermicelli, spaghetti. or macaroni, accord
ing to the Italian nomenclature.
Somebody said once that IL one saw the
process of making macaroni one would
never have the courage to eat il again:
consequently it is wiser not to see ii made.
for the pasta is very good. II properly
cooked. One can see it. however almost
any day. in the suburbs of Naples, hang
ing out to dry in the sun. after having
been passed through the tubes. The Ital-
ians hang it up with as much care as if it
were the weeks washing. and in this is
the test whether 1t has been made with
the genuine semolino flour. II it is of
common -four. the long. delicate strands
will break apart and mildew; if of real
semilino they will be so firm and tough
that they can be moved from place to
place without any damage.
The varieties of pasta are numberles5.
II comes in strips as broad as two fingers,
in light ribbons, in fragile. hairlike
strands. For use in soups there are all
the different sorts which are to be found
in America. aud great many more. The
fertile minds of the Neapolitans are con-
tinually employed in inyenting new de-
signs for their beloved macaroni. A good
housewife prides herself on the varieties
CT pasta fina which she puts into the FAM
liz soup. an inevitable beginning to the
MONDAY and evening meal.
The quantity of macaroni devoured by
the Italians in the course OF a year must
be enormous. In many families it is in
variably eaten once a day. and that in
good. generous fashion The amount or
dinarily served on a table in America
would scarcely be considered sufficient for
enc Neapolitan boy. The favorite appeal
of the black-eyed. 1.-THE man who drives
one about the extensive city of Naples is
for little extra money to buy macaroni
for his family. And this appeal always
touches the heart of a susceptible Ameri
can.
''Ah. poor fellow he probably has moth
ing to eat but macaroni" the generous
man remarks to his wife, when they say
farewell to the smiling cochiere at the
door OF the hotel.
He is not aware that the average Nea-
politan would rather have a dish of well
prepared pasta than tile long, elaborate
table d'hote dinner to which he himself
sits down. By the time an Italian cook
has prepared the macaroni il is as tasty as
anyone could desire. And it is by no
means so economical as one might think
at first
Il is not common here to bake macaroni.
as We do in America. and it is never served
as a vegetable. always in course by it
self. and usually preceding roast. The
average portion for one of macaroni
at restaurant is sufficient for an entire
family of Americans. Still. it is very
good, indeed. and | have known several
foreigners who arrived in Italy firmly re-
solve never to touch that 'horrid maca-
roni." who succumbed 10 it the first time
the well favored, smoking. dish was set
before them.
The Italian mode OF preparing the pasta
is this The quantity desired is plunged
into a pot OF boiling water and is left
mere from ten to twenty minutes. After
being placed in c0lander to drain. there
are two ways of dressing it. Pasta
ciutta means that the big. steaming mass
is thoroughly mixed with a generous piece
of butter and a lavish supply of the finest
Parmesan cheese. Pasta al sugO consists
Of macaroni. either large or small. with
rich tomato sauce poured over it, and
ora ted cheese on the top.