The Honolulu republican. [volume] (Honolulu, T.H.) 1900-1902, 1900-09-19
.pn VIEWED bI n
ONO GLOBE IR0TT[R.
First Impressions of
the Samoan Group
Disappointing
BUT IMPROVES On ACQUAINTANCE.
HONE AND GRAVE OF ROBERT
LOUIS STEVENSON ON RUG
aED MOUNTAINS SIDE.
Scene Of Bloody War and Relics Of
The Tornado's Awful Work
Happy, Contented
Natives.
Special Correspondence o; The Republican.
Apia, Samoa, Aug /, 1900.

Special Correspondence o; The Republican
Apia, Samoa, Aug. /, 1900.
Would that had the vocabulary Of q
Sturgeon, that might paint in words
the beauty, the coloring. the landscape
Of these Tar away isles OF the sea, and
picture to your readers the guam,
character OF a people somewhat akin
to the native Hawaiian, but less keen
and decidedly less practical in advances
civilization.
we sighted the land Of Samoa abou,
6 a m First impressions were not
pleasing; a long line of irregular hills
seemed to rise from the depths of old
ocean without any apparent purpose
for they appeared barren OF all forms
Of vegetation from the great distance
first seen, but upon nearer approach
they developed the most luxuriant
growth of tropical foliage and vegetA-
ton that can be found in the south
seas.
The low lands from the sea to the
foothills were unbroken forests of CO.
coanut, with here and there a pretty
little plantation home where the luna
and his contented family reigned SUI
preme over the estate within his keep
ing; and further up the great hillsides,
rising to the dignity of mountains, was
and almost impenetrable bush The
approach to Apia presents an open har-
Dor, crescent shaped, filed with great
rocky reefs jutting far out into the sea,
imperiling all shipping except when
there is comparative calm, and 1t will
not be forgotten that 1t was on these
reefs and in this harbor in the great
hurricane Of 1888 that six war ships
were destroyed, the last remnant OF
which great disaster, the German war
ship Adler, lies bleaching upon the
beach.
As we anchored far out at sea the
great ship was quickly surrounded by
native craft Of every conceivable shape
and carrying capacity, from the tiniest
dugout to the great barge towed out
by a steam launch to receive the cargo
destined for this port
The native boatmen were not strik-
ingly handsome, and surely not at
tractive, in their bare heads and loin
cloths. but they were peaceful and good
natured in their rivalry to secure pas
sengers to their craft to and from shore
at the moderate tariff of two shi1lings
each.
Our landing on shore was most hap
PLY timed, for just as We approached
the main street of the village a native
princess with her retinue of attendants
was coming in from a nearby village.
She was queenly in carriage, dignified
in manner, and wherein she fell short
in raiment she more than compensated
in the many colors of her "tappa" skirt
and the marvellous crown that sur
mounted her lofty head. Inquiry dis
closed the fact that she is "Tapo, .
or village maiden. chosen as a village
host, whose duty 1t is to extend the
village "talofas' or welcome to the
stranger within the gates. and to ten
der him "hipu." or cup Of ka va, as d
token OF their good fellowship.
The village of Samoa follows the IT.
regular lines Of the harbor; 1t has but
one thoroughfare, running its entire
length. upon either side Of which are
buildings in various Stages OF decay,
one and two stories in height, the most
prominent one being Catholic ca
thedral constructed Of coral rock. In
external appearance It is not unlike the
ordinary house of worship, but within
it is a study for the artist, q curiosity
for the architect and sight for the
tourist. 1t has a great arched roof.
simply resting upon the side walls.
without either supporting columns Or
stanchions; its floor is laid in stone
squares and in the central part is COW
cred with "tappa" rugs, on which the
native members sit cross-legged during
the service. Along each side Is row
Of short seats to accommodate the
white membership. The altar is mys-
terious In conception and wonderful in
construction; IL Is gathering together
from every corner Of Christendom. lit
tie ideas and little altar offerings Of
varied colors. shapes and designs. can
delebra in brass and silver. paintings in
water colors and oil. images large and
images small, while the walls are dec
GRATED with paintings OF the crucifxion
under all the circumstances the i'm
agination Of artists can conceive, and
the holy virgin at various ages In her
strange and eventfol life
There are other churches In the VII
lage-the Church Of EagiAnd. the Meth
odist and the Mormon.
The only industry In the village Is
that Of the Hamburg Trading Company.
Its great copra warehouse would credit
q very much more pretentious city. X
is the chief arm on the islands, dealing
in and exporting copra. indigo and tapi-
ocA The mercantile interests Of the
city are conducted By Americans and
Germans. and the natives carry on q
lively trade In island curios upon the
arrival Of each vessel
Apia b Of great historical interest to
the Anglo Saxon. BY reason Of the fact
that it was the home and is now the
last resting place At the great author
and poet. Robert Louis Stevenson. The
old hoanestsad ON - sssa from Tar out
at 50 standing - Il dos away on the
side three miles or more be-
kf.A - 1S11~~~