davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-02

directly over each hip at the back, and
stitchipgs are the fayorite establishment.
Panels are a natural development of the
pleated skirt, and are therefore much in
eyidenre, sometimes covering both hips.
sometimes only one, and they form the
foundation for number Of rich trimmings.
The tunic in its various forms is also seen
on some of the most attractive skirts. 1t
is generally very long, however, and
pointed, SO as not TO impair the effect of
length and slenderness and the skirt
underneath has the fashionable flare, gen.
orally untrimmed.
One of Paquins most successful models
worn at the Cowes regatta shows that
both the tunic and the long-lived bolero
will be prominent features of the cool
weather gowns. Pale biscuit-colored cloth
forms the long tunic, the foundations of
which is garnished with ecru guipure lace
striped with a bias fold of panne velvet
of the same shade. The placquet at the
back is hidden under a series Of narrow
tucks which supply the neces sary full
ness, as the cloth is released about five
inches below the waist line. The skirt
underneath consists of a very tight fcunda-
ton of biscuit-colored satin, with a deep
circular flare of cloth, faced with satin
and finished with dust ruffle of satin on
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-02

being dull and unresponsive, Is precisely
the other way. Her fippancy is far ahead
of that OF the youngest debutante. She
monopolizes the most desirable of the men.
She perfectly scorns the feminine contin-
gent OF the affair, and her one thought is
TO have a radiant, II not a desperate, time.
Hence the hatred that she inspires in the
girls is greater even than the admiration
she calls forth from the men.
Now, the happy medium lies between.
A chaperon to be q success must know
Just how agreeable to be. Never for an
instant must she be stupid, for thee she
is unpopular with the men; nor must she
be too clever, for then the girls will de-
spise her. She must efface herself oc-
casionally and must be willing to talk
to what is left over. She must not insist
upon doing the agreeable to the best
young man or absorbing his attention, nor
should she allow one to be exclusively de-
voted to her, and by no means ever in
terrupt those who do not wish to be In
terrupted.
In this epoch, above all others in our
social history, is the harvest time for mar
ried and other women. Never before have
they been so important or are at such a
premium as now. when young men so fire.
quently adore women older than them
selves Platonics now are much In vogue,
and the young woman who inspires and
holds such friendships is the ideal chap
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-02
Concerning Chaper0ns.

Speaking of chaperons an exchange
says: Society unchaperoned is not So
ciety: it is merely a collection OF foolish
young people who have hardly outgrown
their schoolroom sports. IN the days
gone by. before American society had be-
come factor Of Importance, married wo-
ren were supposed TO spend their time at
the family hearth, AMI their duties and
pleasures were concentrated in domestic
regions. Boys and girls ruled supreme
and parties and picnics, which seemed to
be the chief form of gayety, according TO
the season. were managed exclusively by
them. Indeed. married people would have
been deemd sadly out of place in the pro-
vincial society that so often prevailed.
Some one said the other day that a
chaperon is a development of an outcome
of effete civilization. and that as society
has grown older and more opulent the
demand for this accessory has increased.
The chaperon. indeed must give the tone
end the air to all entertainments.
To fill the position of chaperon accepta-
bly, is an art to be cultivated. A chaperon
who is dull and heavy. who has forgotten
her youth, who hates to sit up late, who
self and her duties too seriously is to be
avoided indeed for she casts only gloom
upon the party and is terrible ordeal for
the poor young man who is delegated for
escort duty.
Then there is the frisky matron. She
errs on the other side, and instead Of
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-02
Plagiarism in conversation.

II is not only in literature that there
are plagiarists. who appropriate and thrive
on other peoples IDEAS. Brilliant CONVEX
sationalists often haunt a borrowed plum
age, which they have cleverly plueked
from persons who studied the questions
discussed far more deeply than those who
express themselves so glibly. ''It is hard. -
said an intellectual girl to a writer in the
New York Tribune, to have Maud, who
never does more than skim over a book,
calmly kidnap all my ideas about any new
publication and produce them in company
as her own. She dresses them up in lighter
vein, which makes them all the more ac-
ceptable TO society, and talks as il she
had read and thought about the whole
thing. or course, l cannot claim the ideas.
and, indeed they are so twisted and al
tered that l would not want to own them,
but all the same, they were mine origi-
nally, and she gets a cheap reputation of
being clever, well-read woman which she
does not deserve in the very least"
"Oh, am not proud" said Maud philo-
sophically, not denying the impeachment
brought against her You read, and l
talk; that is the difference between US.
'Twould be a pity to let so much good
material go to waste for the sake Of lit
tie squeamishness. Besides, it is all in
the family. What I DO mind, however. is
to take peoples ideas and then be found
oGt-that, admit, is rather disagreeable."
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-02
German ~Pay Weddings

Elopements are never heard Of in Ger
many. and yet there is no such thing as
getting married there without the consent
Of the parents. Certain prescribed forms
must be gone through or the marriage is
null and void When girl has arrived
at what is considered marriageable age
her parents make a point of inviting
young men to the house and usually
two or three are invited at the same time,
so that the attention may not seem too
pointed.
No young man. however. is ever invited
to the house until after he has called at
have social intercourse with the family.
II he takes 10 calling on several occasions
In rather close succession IL Is taken for
granted that he has intentions" and lie
may be questioned concerning them. In
Germany the man must be at least eighteen
years OF age before he can make a pro-
posal but when II is made and accepted
the proposal is speedily followed by the
betrothal. This generally takes place pri-
yately, shortly after which the father Of
the bride. as he is then called, gives a din
ner or supper TO the most intimate friends
on both sides when the fact is declared.
WHAT is known as the pay wedding Is
popular in Germany. The bride receives
the guests with basin set before her.
and into this each visitor entering the re-
ceptlon room drops either some jeE2elry,
a silver spoon or a piece OF money. In
some parts OF the country the expenses OF
the marriage feast are met by each guest
paying for what he or she may eat or
drink II would strike US as very curious
reception, but the visitors pay high prices.
and the happy couple make handsome
profit out of their wedding, as many as 800
visitors often being nrsseat At suen fes-
ftyities
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-02
The un-to.Dnte House.

One of the latest ideas in building houses
is to construct the kitchen. bathrooms, and
laundries without corners. all rounded. so
that no dirt may collect and the room may
be kept thoroughly cleaned a frst-elass
house has at least three baths. two for
the family and one for the servants, and
frequently more.
Some Of the real estate firms now adveT-
tise residences with dark rooms for anna
teur photographers. These are usually In
the cellars and are provided with running
water and electric red lanterns. Private
Turkish baths are not uncommon as are
also private barber shops. These usually
consist of regular BARRIERS chair with
mirrors, basins, and other fittings
High-class houses frequently have bur
glar and fireproof safes built into the walls
of the dining rooms. These are large
enough TO hold plate. In a well-aPpointed
house every closet of any size may be il
Illuminated by electricity.
But the ncwess fashion is to have no
closets at all It's English, you know.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-02
when Mamma whistles.

small silver whistle bangles at the
belt OF most mothers nowadays. 1t sounds
as a warning and summons, OF anything,
in fact. that spares the exercise of the vo-
cal chords and lets the small boy know that
he is wanted, says the New York Evening
SUM-" When the small boy is big enough
to be without nurse the whistle is in
valuable; at all times it is a convenience
The only trouble, indeed, is that since
the mothers have provided themselves with
whistles many small boys have equipped
themselves in the same way. This. they
say is TO answer" the mothers call. Ac-
tualIy ii is to call each other. Much confu-
sion naturally ensues. Johnny may +; any
convenient season put off coming al his
mothers call upon the excuse that he sup.
posed it, OF course, was Tommy that was
calling him.
Some of the maternal victims of this
confusion of whistles are ready with SUBJ
stantlal reward for the manufacturer who
will put on the market two Enthusiastically
different brands of whistles-one to be used
only by mothers, the other fer small boys.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-02
GIRL STUDENTS IN PARIS.
What 1t Usually Costs to Study Ar,
Abroad.

The average girl who meditates a for
eign course in art to give a climax to her
life study is prepared, undoubtedly, to en-
dure such privations as she cannot do
away with for the sake of the good she
expects to derive from her ordeal. 1t is
scarcely possible that she is rash enough
to plunge into the unknown-outside OF
novels-but as the experience of those who
have been there" is always interesting
former student in Paris has written ali
about it to the "Woman's Home Compan-
ion" Here is what she says
The tuition at the schools .anges in
price from 81 to $14 a month. but the price
OF an artists materials cannot be esti-
mated. for these are the Items that make
the study of art appallingly expensive II
an artist needs certain paints, she cannot
stop to consider if others wouldn't do as
well, or If she couldn't get on with less.
as she considers the purchase of remnants
had at any cost, and that is why girl ar.
lists often look as hungry and seedy as
the Marchioness when first discovered by
Dick Swiveller
1t is safe to say that no girl ought to
come to Paris to study art unless she has
an assured allowance of $50 month. and
this amount will just about enable her to
meet Tue tApeHSSS Oh Udlly llNllS, tuition,
and materials. A great deal has been said
about the folly OF American girls coming
TO Paris on limited means. but the imprac-
ticability of such a venture lies not so
much in this drawback as in the pose and
lack OF practical sense in many of the art
students themselves The one great pose
in art is the scorn of pOt-boiling. Most
young artists. for instance, consider it to
be degradation OF their art to turn their
talents toward illustration, whereas it is
one of the most remunerative things an
artist can do. 1t may be said very truly
that no poor girl should come to Paris 10
study art unless she is willing to turn her
ability in the direction Of pot-boiling now
and then, in order to supplement her al
lowance. There are so many needs for
money in Paris. 1t is a veritable Circe of
cities that changes its lovers not into
swine. but into the most enchanting but
terilies. if there is only little extra
money to be had for dress. girl who is
very poor and who cannot make little
pin money often gets rather hopeless and
depressed for there is nothing so fOrlorn
in Paris as shabby attire"
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-02

Besides being a protection to the COM
plexion during the very sunshiny summer
months, a veil is such a finishing touch
10 the toilette that many women do not
consider themselves perfectly dressed
without one. For these two reasons wells
specially designed for this season of the
year are a necessary and stylish dress &C
cessory at the present time. So as to be
real protection, fashion sanctions a rath-
er thicker style veil for general summer
wear than the usual net ones, although
these are worn, too, in the afternoons with
dressy gowns. Among the latest and most
desirable Of everyday midsummer wells is
a polka dotted ecru, blond net, one of the
kind that has been so popular for utility
wear the last season or two. This one is
unusually attractive from the tasteful sim
plicity of its dotted effect, an improve
ment upon the large patterned all-over
designs of those of one or two seasons
past Another of white chiffon, with small
black polka dot and satin band border is
quite as thick and therefore protective
as the erstwhile favored plain black ohif-
fon ones, yet is infinitely more dressy and
becoming.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-02

the inside. The construction OF the bodice
recommends some original combinations
and devices. II has tight lining OF bis
cuit-colo-ed satin, on which is draped a
mass OF folded black chiffon striped with
gold thread. The same material forms the
large cravat-bow, surmounted by a strip of
wide gold braid The stylish bolero is of
ecru guipure mounted on satin and trim
med with bias stripe of blscuit-colored
panne velvet. The comfortable sleeve of
cloth has the wrist trimmed with folds Of
panne velvet and row of guipure lace.
A becoming outing hat was worn with
this costume at the Cowes festivities. 1t
had a low-erowned, wide brimmed shape
OF biscuit colored felt, and was trimmed
with gold braid and narrow black velvet
ribbon, which formed the band around the
crown, and the three large rosettes posed
in front
The demi-saison always brings out a
number of long cloaks more or less attrac-
tive and practical for the inclement days of
early fall. graceful Paquin model is
worthy of imitation, and is made of tan
cloth. lined throughout with cream eolored
silk brocaded with floral design in rather
prominent colorings. The sleeveless coat
is loose at the waist. and the lines are
straight, recalling the favorite empire
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-02

form. Small rows of tan silk stitchings
finish the edge. The deep cape is lined
with silk like the coat. and is likewise Dor
dered with stitchings. The large Marie
Antoinette capuohon completes the becom-
ing. garment, and is lined with lowered
silk. while the fashionable black note is
added in the shape ia black velvet rib
bon, which encircles the hood and fastens
in front with a Strass buckle, ending in
long streamers. below which are finished
with deep. black silk fringe.
An exact style for jackets does not seem
established yet, and. though the early fall
models still show the Elton jacket in its
various notifications, one looks forward
to decided change, for the reason that
so many cheap garments have initiated the
Elton form. The short jacket is far too
1aunty and becoming to lose its hold on
women who appreciate Its superior quail
ties. According to all Indications, there
is therefore reason to expect that It's reign
will extend into the time when winter
storms will call for longer wraps. The
wearer of a handsome last years coat will
be pleased to know that the favor for EN-
pire styles continues, and bids fair to
manifest itself in the. shape of cloaks and
nantes as it did last year.
FELIX FoURNERY.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-02

A new adorument is finding favor among
milliners. This consists Of skeleton leaves
preserved exactly as they fall from the
leaves of the walnut, chestnut, and platane
trees are preferred for this purpose; large
ivy leaves and oak leaves are also used.
The longest leaves are formed into a large
palette. one side being composed of a
ton leaf thus forming a broad garniture
a fine invisible wire fixed to the edge Of
the leaf prevents its crumpling. The small
er leaves are made into garlands mounted
on an artificial or natural branch. The
leaves have to be perfectly preserved, as
their beauty naturally lies in the delicaey
and transparency OF the fibre.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-02
Copyright, 1900, by S. NJ. Baldwin.

PARIS, Aug. 20.-Social functions are
the most important instigators OF new
styles, and so the late Cowes regatta
called forth q number Of charming ideas
pertaining not only to the characteristic
regatta toilette, but also TO costumes
which may be regarded as expressing the
latest developments of autumn wear.
From all appearances there is no absolute
novelty in the new skirts. and the great
couturieres seem to differ in their ideas re-
garding the finish and garniture of the
skirt, though all the models point to the
fact that above the knees the skirt must
fit snugly, and even the folds at the back
must be closely adjusted and tend to
lengthen and narrow the figure. Plain
ski IS are worn only by those who affect
the strictly tailor made, but even these
skirts must have decided fare below the
knees, augmented in many instances by an
inverted box-pleat in the seams. while the
graceful fall at the back is insured by
graduating boX-pleat, also inverted, and
extending all the way down from the
waist-line A novelty which may be
adopted by slender people only consists in
placing pockets like mems hip pockets
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-02
MISS ANrHoNY,s LOSS.
She Never Had to Love, Honor, and
Obey.

How dear Miss Susan B. must enjoy
reading about the things of this life she
might have suffered-but. lnckiIy, missed
Some Western editor has made nice.
plain spoken list of the wear and tear
events OF married life which must appeal
forcibly to the venerable spinster who has
never been called on to love, honor. and
obey. The chronicle begins by referring
to the glories OF wifehood and motherhood,
which Miss Anthony has only heard tell
Of" as il were. and then continues: in
summing up woman's life 1t is only fair
that we should count the things she has
missed along with the things she has
gained. She has gained the love and rev.
erence of millions of people now living
and of millions yet to be-" but then she
has never known the unspeakabls bliss Of
nursing family of children through the
measles, wnooping cough, and humps She
has lived a useful and perfectly upselfsh
life. but she doesn't know a thing in the
world about the serene happiness that liss
in being housekeeper, cook, chambermaid
nurse, seamstress. hostess, and half a
dozen other things every day In the year
till nervous prostration puts an end to the
complicated business. She has stood on a
thousand platforms and listened to the
applause of vast audiences, but she
desn't know the glory and honor Their
is in picking up bucket of hot .suds ard
climbing a step-ladder 20 wash the doors
and windows. All the Joy and rapture OF
housecleaning in the beautiful month Of
May are a sealed hook to her. She has
made the life Of womanhood broader.
deeper, and higher than woman ever
dreamed it could be. but she has no con-
ception of the breadth. depth. and height
of satisfaction to be found In nursing a
baby through the three months collie"
She has made the world over, but she is
ignorant OF the abandon OF joy a woman
feels when she makes over an old dress
for the third time, and then sees John
start off on his summer fishing trip. She
has been free and independent always.
and the women who are happier Cor her
work will see that she never lacks any
good thing, but. alas. she has lever
known the ecstasy of asking John for 10
cents to pay street car fare, and she has
never experienced the bliss OF hearing
him growl about the price Of her Easter
bonnet, and groan over the monthly
grocery bill. Here the element of trag-
edy' looms up very large. indeed.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-02
WHITE WOMEN IN AFRICA.
Two Have Returned to Tell of Their
Travels.

Miss Helen Caddick. Of England, has
been astonishing both the whites and
blacks in Central Africa by her five
months journey. all alone, save for her
black attendants. into the far interior.
Miss Caddick has courage, independence,
and money, all of which are essential for
a successful journey by white woman
In regions where the means of transporta-
ton are still primitive. She was deter
mined to form her own impressions Of
some of the parts OF Central Africa where
white pioneers are beginning to establish
lish their enterprises; and she also trav-
eled for several hundred miles through
regions where there is not single white
settlement She has Just published book
in England giving her impressions OF the
lower Zamb:si. the Shire River and Lakes
Nyassa and I2nganyika where she spent
nearly half a year undergoing In the
most plucky manner all the privations
that are inseparable from life in a tropi
cal country, most Of whose inhabitants are
still in state OF barbarism.
The things that interest q woman trav
eler often differ from those that attract
the attention of male explorers. II is not
strange. therefore, that Miss Caddick
writes at length of the care and food that
native mothers give TO their babies,
tonic that is usually ignored by white men
who write on Africa. Seeing everything
with a woman's eyes. the writer says that
there is no doubt that the natives living
In a wide area around Blantyre are be-
coming less proficient in their native arts
on account OF the proximity OF Europeans
through whom they now obtain many ar
ticles which they formerly made for them
selves When the whites came into the
country, the natives were quite proficient
in iron smelling and rude iron manufact-
ures and in weaving and basket making;
but now they buy many household and
other articles from white merchants and
are forgetting their native industries. She
doubts that this dependence upon the in
corners is having beneficial effect upon
the native character.
Fourteen years earlier. another white
woman, Mrs. Pringle. travelled over part
of the same route, but she was In COM
pany with her husband, an English mer-
chant who had occasion to visit the Fam
best River. The great change that has
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-02

come over the natives through the whites
is illustrated by the different impressions
which these two white women made upon
them. Many of them had never seen a
white woman when Mrs. Pringle came
among them and the sight of this woman
in long skirts SO frightened many of the
half-nude native damsels she met that
they fled into the bush as fast as their
legs could carry them. Mrs. Pringle made
a sensation whenever she combed her hair
in public and she usually found 1t most
comfortable, in that hot climate, TO ar
range her hair while seated before a look
ing-glass at the door of her tent. The
aborigines thought that her long and
straight hair was worth going miles to
see. Her gloves also excited much COM
ment One inquisitive chief, who saw ner
with a veil over her face, desired to know
how it happened that she was black while
her husband was white and also why she
wore boots on her hands.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-02
Posies for Fall Brides.

The fashions for fall brides are to be
among the prettiest that have appeared
for many seasons past. Sweet peas ar.
to be the favorite blossoms for the brides
maids, who are 10 wear huge picture hats
laden down with sweet peas The founda-
ton Of these hats will be Of white crino-
line and tulle; others will be of white Tus-
can straw. and the sweet peas will be
shaded from the darkest tones and placed
with a careless grace,
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-02

There is no doubt about the cruelty of
killing birds for the sake of their plumage,
brs when men undertake 10 upbraid women
Tor their heartless vanity, they might be
asked in turn about the docking II the
tails Of horses. Those who live in glass
houses decidedly should not throw stones