Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-02-10


Special Correspondence.
Cadiz, Spain. Jan. 3, l9oO.--Remember-
ing that this oldest city Of southern
Europe is half as old as the world Il.
self, according to the Hebrew tradl-
tom, that Hercules dwelt here. and
that the ancient philosophers, believing
It to be the very end Of the earth, came
here TO study the curious phenomenon
Of the tides-one is more and more
astonished AT It's look Of newness. So
far as appearances go, its foundations
might have been laid last year, In
stead OF more than three thousand
years ago, and search as you may,
hardly trace OF antiquity can be
found. Even the familiar ear marks Of
the Moors are effaced, though their 800
years supremacy terminated at com
paratlvely recent period. The explana-
ton Hes about equally between white.
wash. religious fanatlcism and British
conquest After the bombardmert Of
Cadiz by Lord Essex Din 1886, which
began SPANS bankruptcy. with the
saching Of her richest city and the cap
ture Of thirteen men-of-war and forty
huge galleons laden to the gunwales
with treasures from her western pos
sessions the city had to be almost en-
tlrely rebuilt; and II was done accord
ing TO English ideas, with wider streets
and tall. commonplace houses. What
the English left Of antiquity. Romish
zeal carefully obiterated, In the effort
OF effaoe every trace Of heather occu-
patton, Hence Moorish court-yards
disappeared, and "Azimul" windows
and mosaics OF softly-shaded oriental
hues. Today CadiZ is the only place In
Spain, or any Of her possessions, In
which the patio does not exist. Instead
Of low walls rambling around central
ourt-yards, after
THE PICTURESQUE MOORISH
fashion the free stone houses are three
or four stories in height most OF them
| with miradOres, or open observatOries
on top, IN which families spend their
! idle days gazing into the streets or
enjoying the fine breeze and sea views.
| The Moorish custom of hiding the WOO
men-folk from public view by penning
them In the patio has given place to
the modern Spanish idea Of female
liberty-allowing them to see and be
seen OF men. but jealousy guarding
them from speech and touch In the
little glass cage, or mirad0r, on the
| house top.
The worst OF reconstructed Cadiz Is
that everything Is so glarngly. pain
fully deadfully whitel No wonder
there are thousands OF beggars in the
streets and nearly everybody you meet
has some disease OF the eyes, The law
compels house owners 20 add at least
one coat Of whitewash every year. The
everlasting monOtonous white, COM
bined with the vivid blue OF sea and
sky brilliant sunshine and lack Of
shade trees. gives the foreigner a con-
slant headache and necessities
smoked glass goggles. as for mountain
Climbing amid eternal SHOWS one longs
10 paint the town red'--t0 paint II
blue, or green, or any other color than
this relentless. dazzling slght-destroy-
Ing white. The name, by the way, Is
| pronounced as II spelled Kah -deeth.
The flowery Spanish historian, Ca
ballero, called II "An ivory model set
in emerald" but now-a-days the ma
tiyes delight 20 speak Of II as Una taxa
| de plata Silver Dish"-so clean and
shining 1t Is, compared to anything else
In Spain. Its population Is probably
about seventy thousand but as the
census Is never taken and the race is
| VIGOROUSLY given 10 crOwding into close
| quarters, Il is difficult to arrive at a
| correct estimate. Situated on It's long
and narrow ptomontory, with the At
lantic on one side and deep-sea inlet
on the other, Cadiz has been unpoetlcal-
| ~ llkened TO ham In contour. The city
| proper forms nearly a perfect square.
| about two miles on each side It's
straight. we'll paved, well-lighted streets
all begin and end az the waters edge
| or rather at the ramparts which sur
round the town from fort 10 fort. This
| high sea-wall Is one Of Cadlz chief at
/ fractions. II is topped with little gar
dens, full Of bright
SCARLET GERANIUMs
and fragrant hellotrope; and here and
/ there larger space, such as the Ala
media, and the Marine Promenade
where bands play every evening and
all the local world Genes out to enjoy
| the music and the sunset view across
| the Western ocean. Ali day long Auda-
! lusian nurse-maids loiter about the
ramparts. singing TO their charges and
flirting with the soldiers, and fisher
men dispute With flocks OF screaming
sea-birds for the salmonete or delicious
red mullet There are so many OF the
latter with their long angling. canes for
|. ever dangling over the water, that their
patience has passed into a proyerb-''la
pacienca de un pescador de cana" The
Alameda Is a charming walk, provided
with trees, benches, fountains, and
ridiculous statue Of Hercules the
founder Of Cadiz, whose effigy, crap
pling with two lions, forms the arms Of
the city and appears everywhere. upon
sign-boards and facades At the east
ern end Of the Alameda stands the
quaint old church OF Carmen, In which
IS the tomb Of Spanish hero. Admiral
Grayina. who commanded the fleet az
Trafalgar, where he received his death
wound,
There are several great gates In this
remarkable wall, each presenting a DIFF
ferent series q moving pictures" Of
Spanish life. The Puerto De San Carlos
leads 10 the custom house. with ITS
eternal ransacklng OF baggage and
searching for pretexts 10 squeeze anoth-
or peso from luckless tradesmen. The
Puerto de San Antonio affords short
cut 10 the market, the most interesting
place IN Cadiz early IN the morning.
There every variety Of costume, color
and grouping may be studied and al
most every language heard The fish
market especially Is the sight Of a lie.
time and recalls TO mind the fact that
the luxurious Romans used 10 send here
for their table-dellcacles as well as for
dancing girls II is said that the best
fish come from the storm-yeXed At
lantlc rather than the languid Medlier-
rtnean. Here Is the San Pedro." cor
rupted from "Janitor,' (so-called be-
cause Il Is the FISH which the porter Of
heaven caught with the tribute money
In It's mouth) the sultan al hut"
king OF FISHES"
Of the Moors, a truly royal member Of
the finny tribes; the famous Dorado"