The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1900-01-07
RICH WRAPS AND GOWNS
THE TASTE FOR CONTAMINATION
HAS BECOME A REALITY.
Materials That Are Generally Used by
Fashionable Women-StyIes
Seen I'm New York.

1.-THE present remarkable taste for orna-
mentation is seen in the increasing mag
nifcence of evening wraps and gowns" re-
marked an Indianapolis woman who has
recently returned from New York the other
day. For ball and opera wear the entire
range Of soft and clinging fabrics Is util-
lied. though the f1eecy and gauzy are not
desired. Materials must have richness,
weight and elasticity enough to enable the
designer to adjust the lines gracefully over
the figure. The delicate chiffons and tullas
used simply for the smaller trimmings.
the narrow folds and fiat-lying effects to
which they are best suited Crepe de chine
is particularly favored. Innumerable plait-
ed, folded and tucked crepe de chine gowns
are seen in various shades. OF course,
these materials are simply the grounds
upon which every degree OF elaboration are
laid.
Second to crepe de chine are the coarse
mesh, rich colored nets. The craquele, toca
and large mesh Brussels with threads
varying from the ordinary to a cordlike
texture. are used In every variety of style.
These are also a basis for embroideries of
chenille, jet filter and elaborate corded de-
signs. Applique of taffeta in black and in
different colors and colored embroidered
flower effects are utilized considerably.
Few OF the gorgeous and fancy brocades
are seen. Many soft foulard silks are no
tfced for toilets of less strictly evening
cast. For reception and demi-costumes the
foulard silk is undoubtedly favorite.
Many figures are shown on plain ground,
but the new Persian and Arabian designs
are the latest. All-lace costumes are
among the most fashionable at the present
time. These dresses embrace every variety
Of net, Plauen, Battenburg, Calais and
These grounds are invariably made up over
taffetas and are very plainly constructed,
the elaborate pattern of the lace sufficing
as trimming.
IN PRINCESS EFFECT.
These lace gowns are most stylish made
in the princess effect the lace overdress
extending over a double accordion-plaited
flounce. Never has the separate waist
seemed more acceptable to people OF good
taste than at the present moment AS
evolutions from the simple cotton shirt
waist. the magnificent affairs now worn by
the entire fashionable world are striking
example of what may come from simple
idea. The variety Of form is only excelled
by the wonderful assortment of fabrics
utilized. There is no favorite shape, nor is
there any particular model upon which
such garments are being constructed
There are few lines to be sure, on which
they bear similarity. The sleeves are in
variably tight; the collars, howe yer fash
ionably cut, are close-fitting and high. All
are cut round in the waist-that is to say,
short at the back and long in the front;
fullness below the bust and a variety Of
trimming about the shoulders are the gen.
eral conformation. The particular ideas are
the use of silks, on which lace is ap-
pliqued in imitation bolero effects, similar
strips OF lace on the sleeves and revers Of
some plain white lace embroidered in black
chenille Jet or appliqued in some conven-
tional design. These revers generally open
on vest of fle plated chiffon and col
lar upon which bead pearls usually are
sewn.
FOR EVENING WEAR.
One of the most gorgeous features of the
season is the wrap for evening reception
and carriage wear. The long, swinging,
graceful garments that are produced in ev-
cry material, from cloth to the richest bro
cade, are seen at every state occasion. A
favored novel idea is the long black velvet
coat which hangs in simple lines from the
shoulders to the ground. The shoulders
and upper portion of the garment are gen.
orally an incrusta ,.on of furs and appliques.
either In white lace or beautiful embroi-
deries In Jet. Great jabots Of lace, closely
drawn under the chin, are much i'm evil
dence, giving truly regal effect. Long,
swinging wraps of soft cloth have appliuues
OF cloth following the front opening and
swinging around the foot of the garment
Many or these garments are cut three
quarter lengths. Spangled dresses still
reign for evening wear and some OF the
effective dinner and reception gowns are
positively brilliant with embroidered de-
signs deliberately incrusted with spangles
OF jet, steel or the beautiful iridescent
paillette. On black velvet or satin this
kind of decoration is sect to best adyan-
tage and the results obtained with il are
very striking A dinner gown of black net
over satin has the tunic slashed triangu-
larry on one side Of the front and the
edges ornamented with design in rides
cent pafllettes, which take en- the wonder
ful green tints Of the ocean. The bodice
Is trimmed in the same way. The portion
trimmed with lengthwise rows of one-incb
satin ribbon, which gives the Impression ~