Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-07-21
0AInitVQ In CliWc
Life at a German Spa While Taking
the Cure.
y 81
81
INTERESTING "DETAILS OF 4 DAY
Plenty Muda. and Water. With
or
Light Refreshments.
B IT PAIN DISAPPEARS
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.

Special Correspondence OF The Evening Star.
EiLSEN, July 10. 1900.
I doubt If a letter has ever before been
addressed to an American newspaper from
this pretty German watering place, and II
is equally doubtful If any American has
ever been here. to take the powerful mud
or slime -schlamm-baths, which are so ex-
cellent for govt and rheumatism. The place
is out of tie regular routes of travel, in the
little principally of Schaumburg-Lippe.
whose furst, or prince. is the wealthiest in
all Germany. These sulphur springs and
beds Of mud. bath houses, lodging houses,
kursaal and restaurant, with all the pref
tily 1aid-out grounds and gardens, belong
to him. and everything is kept up and con-
Quoted accordingly. Since 1905 the older
lodging house has given shelter to patients
coming for the baths, and in many of the
rooms the original furniture is still in use,
solid and plain for the most part but with
some old mirrors on the walls that Amer
lean dealers in antiques would like to dis
play in their shops, and lovers of antiques
would gladly secure at high prices The
center of the life here is the Kur-garten, a
square with big trees, walks and flower
beds, and small tables, benches and chairs.
conveniently placed everywhere, the music
stand being near one end, and the principal
buildings the four sides. The day begins
with concert at $50 o'clock. and always
hymns. is the first number. The men of the
orchestra wear high silk hats, which at
that hour of the morning look as If they
had put them the evening before and
forgotten to take them off again.
Almost as soon as the music begins the
garden fills with people, taking their first
exercise, especially those who drink the
water-strong sulphur, which, taken part
hot and part cold, is the most nauseous
dose imaginable-so much so that many
stonachs refuse it altogether and for them
that part of the course must be left out.
If one drinks, however, twice, walking
fifteen minutes between glasses. then wait
ing fifteen minutes for breakfast, then let
ting hour and half pass before the
bath, and the bath hour, say, o o'clock, one
can readily see that early rising is neces
sity. The baths are in alternate courses;
first, after arrival, come three in sulphur
water. then a rest day, then five mud
baths a rest day and back to water, and
begin over again. ten. fifteen or twenty mud
baths being given In different cases, the
last course being followed by several sui
phur baths, followed still by several salt
with more or less rejoicing. according to
the benefit received.
The Encouraging Cures.
I saw man get unassisted into his
carriage to go away who could not move
his foot an inch when he came here. Very
many are rolled about in chairs and some
are confined to their rooms; but many ap
parently have the free use of their limbs.
and walks are the great diversion here, as
there are beautiful views. interesting old
castles and various attractions of these
kinds all about One can get a sulphur
bath at any time before II o'clock in the
forenoon, but for the schlamm baths an ap-
plfcation must be made to the master of
the bath, who makes out daily list, and
one must accept the hour he gives whether
it be o'clock a m. or an hour more agree
able to ones natural tastes. this hour must
be kept for the series of five baths. with
hope for better luck next time when the
turn comes. After all baths comes an hour
and half of rest on the sofa, with which
each bed room is provided. and then the
toilet of the day is made for table d'hote
at 1 o'clock.
To walk across this diminutive square
and into the dining hall ladies glove them
selves. and some put on hats and bonnets:
these last however. to be removed in the
vestibule, though never the gloves After
the long dinner is ended, people stroll up
and down the walks few times and then
all separate and the place is deserted for
hour or more, when the square again fills
up with outsiders, coming from several
towns near, to drink their coffee under the
trees, and listen to the afternoon concert
from to o'clock. If the day is fine the
place Is crowded. and even If 1t rains lots
OF people will still be sitting about
under umbrellas, wrapped in the rain gar
ments. without which cannot leave
home in the summer in Germany. In the
evening there is no general meeting except
in the dining room, when an la carte sup
per is served and people linger long over it.
There Is Kursaal, but no one goes there,
and there is little sociability except in small
groups, and then usually among people
who have come in party in families,
and who keep to themselves as long as they
stay.
Chance to Talk.
There are some exceptions to this, of
course. fortunately for the stranger a
long ha
dozen agreeable people who speak English
more or less perfectly, and are glad TO
practice it in talking with me. People come
and go all the time, and changes are con-
stantly made thereby at the dinner table. I
was pleasantly placed when / first came
next young lady who speaks English, and
whose length of stay very nearly CORES
ponds with mine. One day, however, there
was general upheaval, and seats changed
about until l found myself next a lady
who does not speak English, and does not
near at all, but. bent on being polite, she
addressed me fiuently in German, and then
sm1linSly presented an trumpet for my
reply, As l had only half understood her
remarks and could scarcely frame an ap-
propriate answer without a trumpet, and
>much less with, the situation was not a
pleasing one, and after dinner sought the
head waiter, and by means Of my limited
German, reinforced by a fee, 1 made him
understand that no matter what changes
were made. 1 always was to sit next my
first neighbor, that where she went l
would go also, and since then all has gone
smoothly. My companion on the other side
varies, just now being lady who talks
rapidly In German, to which make replies
more or less at random, but generally make
what say understood.
If ! had an American companion here we
could extract a. great deal of amusement
out of the situation, and there is vague
rumor atioat that another American lady is
soon to arrive escorted by the captain of
her steamer, who is to place her here. 1
should say North American. for there is a
South American here already. also a Rus
sian and an English lady. who does not
speak word 4of German, and a pretty
young Portuguese girl, who came to Ger
many with her father and brother. Went
to Wiesbaden for her health. and by the
physician there they were sent here instead
She and her father speak no German. She
speaks French and English. but he neither
and here they are, finding it pretty dull 1
FANCY. The father talks Portuguese to the
South American lady, who answers In
Spanish, which is the nearest approach to
companionship he can find
Picturesque Costumes.
The ale &c l.