davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1900-08-26

and ends from which she had fashioned the
pretty thing The skirt her brother-in- law who
works at Skirts had made for her at odd
times, and it cost, getting the material at
wholesale 50 30. Her hat her "chum' made at
an expense of 60 cents. To the unnitiated the
costume represented outlay of $50 at least
although she had achieved it at an expense Of
$3 30, and was able to go abroad without pro-
claiming to the world the dire poverty at home
Her cleverness and the kindness of others had
saved the proud old mother a severe hUmili-
alton. There are many such on the East Side
But, although such girls are not rare, the
other kind forms the great majority. It is ap-
2arently a part of the process Of becoming
Americanized. The girl whose Russian mother
knew but the wig Of the religious Jewess and a
soft shawl; the girl who. had she remained in
bright Italy would have kept but one kerchief
for week days and another for Sunday-these
girls feel vastly fine in three story hat which
might well vie with the historic coat of Joseph
IN the land of equality shall not one wear
what another wears? Shall not Fifth Avenue
and Grand Street walk hand in hand-the lion
and the lamb lie down together? 1t would be
rank heresy to insinuate that there is anything
faulty in the process Of "AmericaniZing'' as it
goes on on the East Side.
New-York tribune., 1900-08-26

10 De found In the tenements Of lower Manhat-
tan Many girls dress neatly stylishly and
tastefuIly and the mystery Of their toilets Is
often amUsingly explained. One story will illus
trate The writer recently had occasion to go
out Of town a Sunday in company with a
girl whose family is in genuine poverty. People
OF less indomitable pride, of less intense self
respect, would long ago have applied for help in
stead of eating bread and water day after day
AT the appointed hour the girl appeared, dressed
not only well, but styIishly. She had a good
hgure' and she was positively stunning" One
who did not know East Side girls would have
SAID uncharitahly, that the heartless young
woman was spending on clothes the money
needed to buy bread for her old mother and
small sisters. But a few friendly words turned
the conversation to the subject of dress, and
the mystery was explained The waist thin
and charmingly cool looking. she had made her
self, buying the material from Hester-st push
cart for 20 cents. Its style came from the
really handsome neck arrangement which she
had made herself; she worked at neckwear, and
the boss had allowed her to take the odds
New-York tribune., 1900-08-26

II my lady wears velvet gown put together
for her in an East Side sweat shop, may not
the girl whose tired fingers fashioned it re-
toSce her soul by astonishing Grand-st. with
copy of II on the next Sunday? My lady's is
N velvet and the East Side girls is in the
cheapest Of cloth, but it's the style that counts
The artistic taste of the East Side men is also
highly developed but the cruel hand Of fashion
has shut TO them the door TO its full enjoyment
Only in the matter Of collars, neckties and socks
can their fancy display itself But if the field
is restricted it is worked with energy. There are
sports" and hot sports and 'stiffs-' The
"sport'' is known by his necktie or his socks
The point is to combine the small space al
lowed as many colors as possible. Purple and
lavender green and red dark and light blue
make contrasts which. as the wearers say. are
mot TO be beat A hot sport" is the common
or garden sport in the superlative- A stiff
is known by his collar There are many gilded
youths on the East Side who would never be
guilty of wearing a "standup" collar when
''high turndowns" were in fashion.
Is il funny or is il pathetic? One is at a loss
10 decide. and compromises by smile and sigh
The girls enjoy it. and they are so pretty, many
of them that two dozen feathers instead of
merely a paltry ten or twelve could not make
them ANYTHING but attractive As to the men,
thev are hardly attractive at the best and, after
all a manly heart beats as truly under a green
and red striped shirt as under one of purest
white It is only expression Of love Of
beauty It does not happen TO be the right idea
Of beauty but 1t fills place in the human
soul which is better filed with even an idol
Of clay than left empty. Is It better for girl
to neglect her personal appearance or TO deck
herself with rubbish? IF the latter is vulgar
the first is unwomanly, and the East Side may
safeIy be said to have chosen the lesser evil
GIRLS WITH GOOD TASTE.
There need not be any evil to choose, however
as many East Side girls realize. Not all over
dress. by any means. The uptown world Is al
Ways Understanding ths amount OF rehnement
New-York tribune., 1900-08-26

UStffcn thelr parent although it is certain that
"e oird would disown her offspring at sight
eouId she again see them
NOTHING IF NOT UP TO DATE
II Is to hats that the young girls fancy lightly
turns not only in spring but in autumn also
Hne cares for dress, but it would be impossible
10 maintain throughout the high standard OF
eiegance set by the headgear Nevertheless
she does very We'll in this respect The habit
OacK hourished on the East Side from the
hEst moment of its arrival from Paris If skirts
are Iong' no self-respecting girl would be seen
III any costume that did not sweep a ward or
TWO behind If sleeves are tight, she would
consider II q disgrace TO be able to raise her
arms above her head She ties her neck. scarf
as low on the waist of her dress as it is shown
In Paris fashions and just a little lower. at
The same minute that Fifth-ave adopts the
same style If overskrts are worn there is
nothing else to be seen in Grand-st. But in the
matter Of dresses ii is natural that the East
n1oe should be strictly up TO date, for does it
not furnish clothes for the rest Of the town?
New-York tribune., 1900-08-26
4 NINETEEN POUND LOBSTER.

From The Bangor Industrial Record.
The prize lobster Of the season arrived at
Portland, Me, the steamer Lucretia recently.
1t is q monster. Maine waters acquiring a
reputation for big Holsters, and this one prob
ably heads the list for size of any brought 70
that port. 1t taken from the car and
weighed, and il tipped the scale at tri1ie over
nineteen pounds. It measures thirty-eIght
inches, or, to give better conception one yard
and two inches; from tip of tail TO the tip Of the
nose is tWenty-one inches. The big claws "a
the first joints only thirteen inches long and
FIVE inches wide. Its smellers fifteen inches
long. 1t caught at Prospect Harbor IN a
novel way. When the trap was pulled the
mammoth crustacean was found clingtng to the
outside IN the end Of the trap.
New-York tribune., 1900-08-26

q feather? Grand-st- dons two, without loss
Of time Are trailing skirts seen IN Fifth
ave. Grand-st trails its yards with 6 dig
nity al IT'S own Are daring color effects sent
over from Paris4 The rainbow hides its dimin-
ished head before Grand-st- on a Sunday
afternoon G-and-st- Is Broadway plus Fifth
ave only very much more So It's VIDE
stdewaIks show more fashion to the square
foot on a Sunday than any other part Of the
city
IN C-ano-st- the East Side buys its dresses
.oa-s and q thousand and one other things. For
its hats it goes 10 Division-st DiVision-sI be-
gins its picturesque career al Chatnam oquaIe'
and runs along TO Clinton-st From Chatham
scua-e for the length Of a couple OF blocks or
so the neighborhood christens the street Mill
ne-v lane" for good and obvious reasons Let
no unva-v traveller, unversed In the ways Of
the East Side shopkeeper. set foot IN TINS spo[
under pain Of being forced to buy the most
marvellous creations Of the modiste's brain that
,va-a eyer designed 10 assist CupI- in subjugat-
Ing the heart Of man EAST Side mani There
are fully twenty millinery stores IN the lane
and each store has one or more sloe"a4A ID
DIS" 70 pull m" The term ''puller IN" Is not
wrongly applied They smile seductVeIy as
tbev ask Anything in a stylish hat, ma am
t,,+ = the fascination does not work properly
3
arm NJ the passer by and proceeds TO argue the
question These enrerprising ladies devise the
lar fashions for the lower East Side The sys-
TEN Is simple Whatever a hal may lack IN
or7aFf+v there is never anything TO be desired
A. The matter Of quantity. The East SIDE
though Door enough IN all truth is ever generous
60 far as the people can afford there is no stunt
IN bosDt+auty or charity, and the same rule Is
applied TO hats
II Is not easy for an unpractiseo eye 70 Judge
- ne ousntity of chiffon silk used on an
ordinary summer hat but on one recently seen
:, Millinery Lane there was bulwark certainly
10 less than ten inches high al round the huge
t,, Of the creation" And il cost only 81
All that chiffon for s4, not to mention the hand
f,7l os flowers and fruit which grew In the cen
+reI Purple and yellow is a favortte complna-
,5o- and may truthfuny be said TO give more
.7,ovr for the money than any other erect
E77ack except IN large black velvet hats VIII
feathers is not popular, and when BLACK stra"
ts r,sed Z microscope Is needed TO distinguish II
a. .be bottom Of pyramid Of peacock coiors-
THE average East Side girl, who earns few dol
1s-s every week and Is not in destitute c1rcun-
stances. buvs every winter e hat with feathers
II Ia always a large one, and sometimes IL
s--oans beneath the weight OF nearly or quite q
5ozen nIurnes which may once have called an
New-York tribune., 1900-08-26
OPENING PLAYS.
BROTHER OFFICERS" SAG HARROR,~ -
AND OTIS SKINNERS DRAMATIZED
VERSION OF sTEVENsON's NOVEL.

Brother Officers" which will be presented at
the Empire Theatre tomorrow night, not only
marks the opening Of this theatre, but II
is also the first play produced this season
under the management Of Charles Frohman
William Faversham plays the part of the
plebeian lieutenant and Miss Margaret Anglin
has the leading female role. The other mem
bers of the cast will be Edwin Stevens, Guy
Standing, Joseph Wheelock, IT.; W. H. Cronp-
ton, F. Y. Backus, J. r. Sumner, George Os-
New-York tribune., 1900-08-26
EAST SIDE FASHIONS.
THEY KEEP PACE WITH THOSE OF ETEvrIz
AVENUE. AND PERHAPS OUT
RUN THEM LITTLE

As broadway TO upper New-York. so is Grand
81 10 the lower East Side. Here and in the
streets immediately adjoining one sees what
lower Manhattan considers the glass of fashion
Alo me mould Of form" OF form there may
oe something lacking, but fashion is there in
l-- Iorce- Grand-st- out-Broadways Broad
way Here one sees all the styles ever devised by
the brain Of man-sees them In all their glory
having their fullest scope. allowed to expapd al
their own sweet viii Does Broadway wear
New-York tribune., 1900-08-26
THE LEPER SETTLEMENT IN HAWAII.

From Harper's Weekly.
I,epers who live outside the two homes draw
from the Government a fixed amount Of money
as clothes rations order every six months,
in addition to a weekly allowance in provisions.
The Bishop Home and the Baldwin Home drew
their supplies through the board as required.
Many of the Iepers have friends outside who
urOvide incomes for them. There are I16 build
ings of all classes, including two school houses,
two Protestant two Catholic and two Mormon
churches a court house and Jail.
New-York tribune., 1900-08-26

fen, Miss Margaret Dale and Miss Lillian Thur
gate. Brother Officers will be followed on
September II by John Drew. in Richard Car
vel"
Mr.. Herne in Sag Harbor' will be supported
by a good sized company. in which his two
daughters, Miss Julie and Miss ChrystaI Herne,
play the leading feminine roles Miss ChrystaI
Herne viii enact the role Of Janey Caldwell.
light comedy part. Julie Herne is nineteen
years old, and Chrystal is seventeen Lionel
Barrymore, Miss Margaret Pitt and Miss Molly
Reve the members of the Sag Harbor"
cast. Otherwise the company is Identical with
that which was seen in Boston and Chicago last
season. Sag Harbor" viii appear at the new
Victoria Theatre as soon as the house is finished.
Work is now being rushed on the structure,
under the personal supervision Of Mr. Hammer
stein, who says that the Victoria will be the
handsomest playhouse he has built.
The dramatization Of Robert Louis Steven
sons novel Prince Otto' in which Otis Skin
ner will appear next week at WaIlack's Theatre
has been done more with reference to a prac-
ticaI stage presentation than with a desire to
follow the original plot. Two of the principal
episodes however have been used with slight
alterations one is the confounding of the Prime
Minister, when he exposes to the Princess the
plot of the Revolutionists the Prime Minister
himself being their leader and the other is
the scene between the Princess and the Prime
Minister, when, discovering his duplicity and
goaded to desperation by his insults, she stabs
hun. The Prince then appears on the scene, and
takes the crime upon himself. The action Of
the entire play takes place at KronefeId. one Of
the smaller principalities Of Germany. The Sec
ond act shows the state apartments OF the
palace at Kronefeld, the third shows the council
chamber and the fourth the library.
Mr.. SINNERS wife, whose stage name is
Maud Durbin, takes leading part, and others
are Miss Grace FiIkins, Percy Haswen and
George F. Nash Mr.. Skinner promises that the
New-York tribune., 1900-08-26
IN THE HEATED TERM.

From TIE Detroit Journal
Hot eh? Remember the old saw which
says'-
'.OId saws cut no ice In dog daysF"
New-York tribune., 1900-08-26

bourne. jr.; George Pearce, Mrs. Thomas Whit
fen, Miss Margaret Dale and Miss Lillian Thur
gate. Brother Officers" will be followed on
September IL by John Drew in Richard Car
vel"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-11-03
Rice and GreengaSes.

Boil some rice in milk until it is perfectly
soft and the milk is all absorbed. A few
minutes before taking it from the stove add
tablespoonful two of desiccated cocoa
nut, piece of butter and castor sugar to
taste. AS soon as the rice is cool fill a
china souffie mold (or round cake tin will
answer the purpose) with 1t, pressing it
tightly. When the rice is quite cold turn it
out, and with knife mark a circle round
the top about an inch from the edge. Then
very carefully remove most of the rice from
the middle Of the shape SO as to leave it
hollow.
Stew some canned greengages in thick
strip which has been colored red, and when
they are cold remove the stones. Fill up
the nodded rice with the fruit and cover
the latter with whipped cream. The rice
which is left over be utilized the next
day as follows: Beat an egg to stiff froth
and mix 1t with sufficient boiling milk to
bi ing the rice to the right consistency and
stir we'll
Butter deep pie dish. pour the rice into
1t, and bake it in moderately hot oven
until the top of the pudding is evenly
Drowned. If the oven Is the right tempera-
ture the pudding when done will be q
creamy custard with Eica.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-11-03
Winter Jackets.
From HaIper's Bazaar.


While long coats and three-quarter coats
are the smartest for the new winter gowns
there are any number of short jackets that
are exceedingly attractive. They are made
in both Eton and boero style, but the
fronts have little nothing to do with the
original design Of such coats. All the fronts
are long enough to come below the waist
line; some are made double breasted and
perfectly fiat in effect, while others have
pointed revers that are opened to show an
inside waistcoat of some different material,
lace yoke, and a large lace bow. Then
there is a severe little jacket that is fasten-
ed at the throat and has long points that
hang down over the skirt, and that is trim
med all round with narrow ball fringe
of gold or silver. Another Jacket on the
same lines is trimmed with narrow lines
of velvet and rows Of tiny fiat buttons in
gold or silver put on that they overlap
one another. These jackets VIII look too
cold when really cold weather sets in, but
will make the costumes intendyd for early
autumn exceedingly gay and effective in
appearance.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-11-03
Lemon jelly.

Put pint Of cold water into saucepan
with the thinly pared rind Of lemon. Let
it boil up and then simmer for ten minutes
Squeeze the juice Of two large juicy lem
ons into BASIN taking care that the pips
do not go In, and pour the hot water on to
the juice. Add half an ounce of sheet gela-
tin df the weather is very hot allow rather
more) and sweeten to taste with loaf sugar.
Stir gently until the gelatin and the sugar
have melted and strain the liquid through
muslin into china mold which has been
rinsed with cold water When adding the
sugar 1t should be remembered that jelly
will taste sweeter when it is hot than 1t
will when 1t is cold
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-11-03

PARIS, October 90, 1900
Winter comes on aDace. Although the
chestnut trees still green and the warm
sunshine makes the streets of Paris seem
paved with gold, the winter fashions seem
safely established. Wraps seen upon
1sSr shoulders and winter hats of the heavy
materials suitable for the approach of
1rosts and SHOWS, adorn feminine heads.
al of these are handsome, and most of
them could be classed sumptuous. Never
IN the history of dress there time
when more extravaganza shown in the
trimming of gowns. Even wraps are loaded
down with lace and fur and braid and
stitching
Cloaks and long coats are to be very
popular this winter. The short Eton jacket
of fur, the three-quarter coat of cloth,
trimmed with fur or of cloth and velvet.
and the elaborate long wraps are the styles
which women are given to choose from.
Only very full pocket book can afford the
elaborate long coats, and the same may be
said of the short fur garments. 1t looks,
then, as If the fanciful three-quarter gar
ment would be the coat of the year with
the majority of people. There is no deny
ing the fact that the coats of this season
Will not be universally becoming. Very
slender women will look well In the much
trimmed long coats, and the shapely, plump
figure will show to advantage in the close
fitting Eton, or bolero. as it is called this
season. The three-quarter sack coat Is not
particularly becoming to any style, nor is 1t
g satisfactory protection from the cold, for
the wind so easily blow 1T away from
the figure and send Its blasts in chilling
waves as high as the throat.
The long coats are in the majority of
cases fitted in the back and loose In front
A deep collar and Enthusiastically shaped
rSvers trim all the winter wraps. Black
velvet braided in gold, is fashionable
rever and collar facing.
Styles on Parade.
Those Of the foreigners who attended
Iongchamps in the hope Of carrying fash
ion hints home with them were not few
The men, most of them, had no higher OBJ
ject than to see some of the fine horse
flesh and the famous beauties of Paris
Both men and women, however, were anx-
1ous to catch a glimpse of the nobility, and
their reward was great, for not only was
the aristocracy of France represented but
that of England also was present in force.
Among the English lotables were the Duke
and Duchess of Devonshire, the latter
gowned in gray satin, trimmed with guip-
ure and with tasteful toque of blue upon
her handsome head. Consuelo, Duchess of
Manchester, in black for her daughter,
Lady Alice Montague. was present with her
Sister. Miss YZnaga.
A host of people of less exalted station
were there, but the majority of the English
lords and ladies were so democratic in dress
and manner that the unsophisticated Amer
leans who looked for something magnifi-
cent In a titled aristocrat were distinctly
disappointed. AS is always the case, the
most striking costumes were not worn by
the great ladies who dress simply, but by
remarked that the coifure was worn low
by several of these fashion pioneers-so low
that it fell almost to the nape of the neck
This style looks well on women with long
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-11-03

is a species of velvet overset with incrusta
tons of cloth.
The exhibition of costumes at the EXPOSE
ton is now showing its effect Gowns of
the directo!re period are rapidly being
adopted by fashionable women. The fash
Ion designers claim that many of their mod
els are copied directly from old prints,
showing Louis XIV and directoire fashions.
Hence. 1t looks as though even the original
ity Of the versatile French modistes had
been exhausted.
There are few new fabrics comparative
There Is a new crepon heavier than that
We have had, with the wrong side of rough
surface and the right side soft, silky and
raised. Diagonals and many chevrons will
be used in the making of fashionable frocks
Fur Trimmings.
Shirrings and narrow plaits will not be
much adopted, as heavier cloths are to be
introduced, and with these 1t will be i'm
possible to successfully use such trimmings.
Instead, elaborate stitchings, braidirgs and
trimming with fur and velvet will take
their place.
The shape of the skirt will remain as it
is, tight-fitting and long, although it is no.
ticeably bit shorter. The double skirt is
preferred. by smart women, the upper part
being made shorter than it has yet been
worn and finished around the lower part in
ornamental patterns. The plaits in the back
are still features Of the skirts. but they are
no longer stitched down. Smaller plaits,
sometimes shirrings on the more plable
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-11-03
Sleep and Ventilation.

Many people. even those accustomed to
being out of doors all day, think it neces-
sary when night comes to shut every win
dow. This is a very erroneous idea. Dur
ing the long hours of the night, when all
doors are necessarily obliged to be shut,
surely fresh air is needed through the win
dow.
Some people say that they sleep more
soundly if the window is shut. There is no
doubt that their sleep is heavier, but at the
same time it is not so refreshing as if they
slept in purer air.
So much carbonic acid gas being evolved
from the lungs acts like a narcotic in a
close room. We all know how sleepy and
heavy feel in crowded church, theater
or concert room. Open the window at the
top. Once the habit is acquired, 1t will GER
tainly be continued. Accustomed to Sleep
ing in a fresh room, one feels suffocated II
the window is closed.