New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1900-10-11
RICH EFFECTS IN JEWELRY
FRENCH ART IN ENAMELLING HAS
SPREAD ITS INFLUENCE OVER ALL
ORNAMENTS OF A FINE MAKE.

The woman who has love for jewels In her
soul is lacking in Of the first elements Of the
artistic temperament. All the possibilities Of
beauty in color and light are revealed in them and
every natural charm is enhanced by the jewellers
and designers art. The Paris Exposition put the
entire world of jewellers its mettle, to speak
and the result is upon the market in exquisite
novelties of every kind.
The art nouveau," which already has made
distinct success in furniture. been adopted by
the godsmiths, and wonderfully lovely are the ap-
plications Of the flower motif, upon which the new
art is based. Enameing is a necessity in these
productions, and a impetus has been given to
this art by the increased demand. Every resource
known to metal workers is brought requisition
to create tints in goId and silver everywhere
Novelty and beauty combined in the highest
degree
Necklaces and collars rings and breastpns even
earrings. are necessaries of the fashionable wom-
ans toilet and such is the Importance they have
assumed that all who afford II wear their
jewels zen suite" changing them to match the
gown. Almost all gems however, are combined
with diamonds, the diamond and pearl alone being
seen Solitaire" a rule.
Some Of the necklaces are wonders Of gem work
Leaves and flowers of diamonds are grouped with
berries of ruby pearl. Two Of an American ex-
htbit in the Paris Exposition attracted much at
tentton and held their own with the best Of the
foreign display. One made of American pearls
and diamonds set in clusters. The pearls were
variegated excepting two remarkable white pearls
penudAI from the large central custer HAeiOeu
gold work, enamelled in coors, to contrast Win
the pearls, connected the clusters. One hundred
and sxty-seven diamonds and sixteen pearls were
used
Another necklace in the same exhibit COM
posed of Mexican fire opals. forty-fve being en-
ployed in the collar and pendant sphere. Combined
with the OpaIs in striking fashion fourteen
red tourmalnes sixty tourmalnes of various colors
and forty-eght diamonds. In the sphere pendent
from the centre were twenty-six tourmalines Of
various colors and thrty-two brilliants.
Etruscan, Egyptian, Roman and Grecian art
have been levied upon by the designer, and al
most Oriental and barbaric splendor prevails. Mu-
seums are searched and their Of far off
ages reproduced and varied for the modern belle.
II seems strange that the most beautiful products
'hark back to an almost forgotten and more or
less despised antiquity Nineteenth century civili
zation sits at the feet of day before the Christian
era in many departments of
Early Egyptian art is especially favored, and not
from ESypts legends. mythology and history in
spration is drawn for the quaint conceptions that
tasCinate cOnnoisseurs. The sphinx, the Ibis, the
Oudja, Eye Of the Nile. and the lotos all appear
their oddly artistic novelty.
Buckles are the fad of the moment, and their
costliness and beauty bring them within the list OF
JeWelry. They will be used not only with VelVets
and ribbons as background, but will be seen also
on fur coats. Enamel is at its best in these. and
Tart nouveau" is employed with bewttching ef-
feet. The white flowers and green leaves Of the
lotos, the blue forget-me-not the purple pansy
and the decorative leaf of the oak furnish lovely
designs for the buckles that carried out in
enamels of the natural hues.
Through the chemists aid metals have been de
veoped into a strange variety of colors that lend
themselves 10 exquisite effects. A necklace OF dead
gold has daisies erameled upon square links. with
alternating links formed Of daisy leaves IN four
different shades of gold, deftly blended as TO
seem almost Ike enamel.