The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1900-02-19

ployed, and it forms the yoke, vest and
part of the sleeves. This sort of dress
is made over taffeta of the color in the
embroidery, and the belt and bows are
of black velvet. The skirt is gathered,
the fullness beginning on either side
of the front and shirred down three
times, shirrlng appears again around
the waist above the belt. Threading
velvet ribbon through small gold
buckles is a feature of decoration on
some of the new models. and very
pretty for the collar bands when two
or three bands encircle the neck and
are fastended with the buckles.
All the new materials which have
whether they are wool, silk, or cotton,
are as SOFT thin and clinging as pos
sible- Even the piques are made more
pliable by a combination of fine en-
broidered lawn insertion arranged in
diamond design, the piques being cut
away underneath, and the effect when
1t is made up into a gown with an en-
broidered hounce is novel indeed. The
new striped figures are very fine and
soft and will be tucked and trimmed as
prettily with silk revers and bands of
velvet ribbon as though they were not
cotton at all The use of white en-
broidered lawn for the f1ounce around
the hem of the skirt will be another fea-
ture of the white pique gowns. the up
per skirt falling over this in points or
ScallopS.
A novelty among the new wool ma
terials is called wolfe ondule. which YER
ifies its name by the waved effect given
to the threads in weaving. 1t is rather
wiry in texture but so loosely woven
that it has all the necessary clinging
qualities. No matter how many novel
ties may spring up. nothing can Dust
crepe de chine from favor this season.
1t is a reigning favorite and with good
reason, too. as there is no material
which can fill more perfectly every re-
quirement of fashion. The sheen alone
makes it very attractive and then it is
SO soft, pliable and durable that as yet
nothing has been invented which can
surpass it. Zinc gray, a color which
has the lead just at the moment, is
very charming in this material trimmed
with fine beads of the same color and
made up with fluffy frills of gray
chiffon around the feet.
A pretty idea for a simple costume is
seen in a zinc gray cloth skirt, per-
fectly plain with two box Plaits in the
back rows of stitching around the hem,
and a tucked blouse waist of liberty
satin of the same color. The collar
band. sleeves from the elbow to the
wrist, and belt are of cream satin COW
cred with cream lace.
The separate waist differing in ma
terial, not in color, from the skirt is in
extremely good taste and style as well,
and yet anything in the way OF a sep
crate waist if it is dainty in color and
detail of finish, is equally good. Daint-
mess seems to be the special point in
all the new models. Prettily embroid-
cred batistes in all the pale colors are
made up into the daintieSt little sum-
nler blouSeS, one of which is shown in
the Illustration. Other plain batistes
are tucked in half-inch tucks a little
distance apart nearly across the entire
front and each tuck is edged with mar
row ValencieneS lace. A pretty model
for a silk bodice shows tabled revers
edged around with black applique lace.
Pink silk entirely covered with groups
of tucks with hemstitching between.
forms another pretty model. A strik-
ing novelty among the new materials
for waists is embroidered silk of va
rious colorings. 1t comes in patterns
just large enough for the waist, and
the embroidery, very fine and dainty,
nearly covers the front and decorates
and sleeves at the wrist, and the collar
and belt as well. The use of it is shown
in the first single illustration. Another
blouse of lace and tucked chiffon has
the new cape effect carried out with the
lace revers.
Among the new summer gowns is one
of batiste with a finely tucked skirt, the
tucks falling loose below band of lace
insertion and a group of tucks around
the hem. A pretty model for crepe de
chine has the under box plaits all
around the skirt, the edges being caught
together with a fine silk end. A cat
ted for the end. Lace and frills of chif-
fon finish the skirt, and the bodice also
plated a, little above the belt has a deep
cape of lace threaded through with vol
vet ribbon and caught together in front
with two bows of velvet. The sleeves
are finely tucked the entire length and
made without any lining.
A dainty design for any of the new
cotton materials is tucked in groups up
and down the skirt and bodice, trim
mad with Iaca insertion woke and hQlf
of lace and the bodice is fastened at
one side with bows of velvet ribbon A
stunning new spring model in gray
cloth shows the closely stitched plaits
on both bodice and skirt.a vest and col
lar of cream lace and a pretty little
yoke of white panne embroidered in
pink and pale green. Another gray
cloth made for the Riviera, is trimmed
with gray lace insertion dyed to match
the cloth in color Each band of lace
is crossed by gray silk cord at intervals
and each end is fastened by a small
black and white enamelled button