The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1900-02-19
Slenderness of Figure Still a
Feature of Fashion.
LARGE SLEEVES AGAIN.
Skirts to Be Fuller But Not
Less Artistic Than Now.
Features of Advanced Models in
Muslin and FOulards.
Separate Waists in Good Style
and Good Taste.
[From the New York SUM-

Dress begins already to show many
indications of the summer styles and
OF what we may expect to see three
months hence. If there were no Vari-
ations in fashion there would be no
business for the fashion makers, SO it is
pretty certain that they will look to
their laurelS and interests to such an
extent that there never VIII be anything
thrown on the market so ideally perfect
and beautiful that it can become a per-
manent fashion. There always will be
some involved suggestion of improve
ment, some unsatisfactory. feature in
every design, to keep their occupation
alive.
Every revolution of the wheel is sure
to bring new notifications, even though
some old time fashion is revived, but as
yet there is an air of uncertainty about
the coming modes which later importa-
tions will no doubt remove Meanwhile
rumorS which may, or may not be veri-
fed weeks hence, are rife. One which
woman should hope may never be con-
t1rmed is that there is tendency to-
ward larger sleeves. The expansion is
below, not above the elbow and spreads
out bell shape into a deep flounce. The
sleeve is quite close fitting from the
shoulder to the elbow and is evidently
some variation of the Old-time flowing
sleeve. It's use just at present is con-
fined to tea gowns, and Jackets which
sometimes have a close sleeve of tucked
chiffon and along bell-shaped sleeve fall
ing over this. However, such an extreme
in sleeves need not be anticipated for
the immediate future, the close fitting
variety being almost certain to endure
through the coming season. Mousque-
taire cuffs are a feature of some of the
new sleeves They extend quite up to
the elbow and are cut to flare a little
over the hand.
As for the new skirts. we are inform
ed that they are to be fuller, but not in
the sense which adds any superfiuous
material around the hips. SlendernesS
of figure is still the leading feature of
success if you would be a convincing
exponent of the real beauty of present
modes. While the. skirts are plated and
tucked IN every conceivable manner,
they are so artistically cut and made
that the plaits accentuate the slender
ness of the figure rather than add to its
apparent, size. There is more fulness.
but it is all around the feet in added
flare and plaitings, which make the
outline especially graceful. Another
feature which we can rely on, if reports
are true, is that the length will not be
shortened, that there will be no devia-
ton from the rule of long skirts which
has prevailed for some time, except for
special gowns made for outdoor sports.
One design, which is popular just at the
moment, has five shallow box plaits,
one directly in front, one at either side,
and two larger one meeting al the back.
These, like all the plaits, are stitched
down half way and carefully pressed.
The kind of material employed de-
termines the treatment to a great ex-
tent, and the plaitS only in the back are
not always stitched down; sometimes
the pressing is sufficient, or they may
be secured not more than five inches. A
skirt with two double box-plaits in the
center of the back and two single box
piaits at either side of a plain front
breadth is another model which has
the promise of popularity. Box-plaits
narrow at the waist line and widening
toward the hem help to give a slender
appearance to the figure.
Z low + n clyi ~f Not
is a special art in making any of them,
and dressmaker must be an expert
needleWoman as well as an artist to
give the full measure of perfection to
each model. The first consideration is
for the shape, which must give all the
flare fashion requires at the hem, and
then the plaits and tuckS must be ar
ranged with reference to the effect they
opportunity for the display of artistic
taste.
Some of the advance models in muslin
and foulard silks recently Imported are
picturesque, if not perfectly accurate,
representations of the coming models.
The overskirt in various forms is one
feature which is represented, while the
one which is significant as a possible
forerunner of panniers and feStOOned
drapery is gathered in at the waist,
shirred down with several rows, open
in front. and caught up, pannier fashion
with taffeta silk roSetteS at either side
of the back. The material is French
dimity pompadour pattern, and the
taffeta for belt and rosettes is green in
this instance, but may be any color in
the Towering. The WaSherWOman style
of oVerdresS is another variety which
appears among the new thin gowns. and
again there are rOSetteS of lace catch |
ing up the drapery at either side half
way down from the waist line. ROSetteS
of silk, ribbon and lace seem to have a
conspicuous place among the trim
mings on these new gowns, and belts
of silk spreading like a girdle in front
and narrowing in the back, where they
seem to fasten with a buckle, are "a
special feature.
Dimity dresses are made with a tunic
overdress falling over an pnderskirt
made Of alternate rows of Valenciennes
lace insertiona nd fine batiste embroid-
cry. This is surely a useful idea for re-
modelling last seasons gowns, as only |
the lower portion of the skirt is of the
embroidery and lace. All sorts of COM
binations of lace and embroidery, hem
stitching and tucks of lawn, tucking and
embroidery beading supply variety in
materials for various uses in the de-
partment of cotton gowns. These are
employed for entire overdresses and
waists as well as for the deep f1ounce on
the underskirt.
Elbow sleeves have a place here in
this first speculation in summer gowns,
but it is impossible to foretell their fate
until later in the season. The fact
that they necessitate long gloves is !
one disadvantage which can be scored
against them Yet a transparent sleeve
of lace falling little below the elbow
where it is finished with a band of vel
vet and a bow at the back. is very
charming on a pretty arm. The new
embroidered batiste already shown in
the shops is a charming material for
summer gowns, as it comes in a variety
of pretty tints embroidered both in
white and coIors. and in white, en-
brOidered with different cOlOrS A
pretty new model in this shows elaborate
use of inset lace of insertion with frills 4
of lace around the hem of the skirt.
Valeneiennes is the kind of lace en-