The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1900-08-04

Paris, July 25.-Loitering along the
Rue Rivoli any pleasant day one sees
the most exquisite costumes. Yet it is
a fact that the mind wanders away
from the styles, away from ruffles and
tucks and insertion, into a contemola-
ton Of the enchanting materials from
which these costumes are made.
That which at first sight appeared
to consist of row after row of silk and
lace, carefully Joined and aIternated
with bands of satin, proves to be, upon
closer inspection, a fabric, woven in
one piece, and bought by the yard for
the fashioning of handsome gowns.
Sometimes the appearance will deceive
yon, and il is only upon actually pass
ing the fingers over the fabric that
you can detect the difference between
applique and woven goods, between
insertion and cunningly cut and stamp
ed goods.
1t is as if the manufacturers of all
nations had suddenly awakened TO the
possibilities of machinery. and were
deVOting their entire time and labor
to the reproduction of elegant fabrics.
Useless now the modiste's art, idle the
embroidery needle, for the goods can
be purchased by the yard for less cost
IMAM Il Single udIlQ-Wlulh COuld DG
worked, and the whole is immeasure-
ably more elegant and chic.
The painted muslins, the embroidered
chiffons and the metal appliques are
the substitutes in goods that are shown
by the yard.
One instance of this viii show the
extent to which the art of manufac-
ture has been brought. Into the very
center of a piece of pearl gray cash
mere was woven a lace figure. The
figure was repeated at intervals of
few inches making an exceedingly rich
goods. By this art the necessity for
applique with the cut-out work under
meath was entirely obviated, and the
result was even better.
CHEAP SUBSTITUTES.
But these goods are unfortunately
eXplG siVe. Instead of being for the
wanting many they are for the FORUM
ate few. From 81 to IS per yard they
run, and no one can accuse a So fabric,
nor a 81 one for that matter, OF being
cheap, when applied to theEmaking of
a summer gown, with its perishable-
ness and its short life. AS the season
advances, the gown fades in color; it's
material becomes inappropriate, its
weight inadequate and with the first
knell of September it is dead-dead as
the leaves upon the trees.
WIN 2 winter gown 1T Is sQlHer6nI,
and dress well selected as to color
and material can be carried through
several seasons without becoming an
antique.
1t is on account of the short life Of
the new summer fabrics and their eX-
pense that the modistes have devised
clever little ways of initiating the more
costly materials. The silk muslins, for
example, which come inlaid with
punches and sprays of flowers, are !
nicely simulated at home by sewing |
silk sprays over plain silky surface, |
whether it be real silk muslin or its |
cheaper limitations. To avoid much /
needlework these sprays need not be |
placed close together, but can be set |
some inches apart, not more than two |
being needed for the back of a bodice |
and only four for the shirred front. /
The skirt can have spray appliqued |
here and there at irregular intervals.
The most elegant piques come with |
large polka dots embroidered in silk. |
The dots are of different sizes and of |
various colors. all shades being seen
upon one dress. Pique Of this descrip-
ton is expensive, but, if the dots are
embroidered by hand, the work is not
nearly so dear nor is it as difficult.
Even satin applique, that most expen-
Sive of all fabrics, can be initiated
The real satin applique consists of a !