Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-05-05
7II7nnnl7l lnnnnnn l0nnnHnHfu OBSERVATION-DISCLOSURES

palni-iike himself am eNile-Which If
yet sung ana recited In spain, akin to
| that other homcs.ck wall. La Colon
| drona" Of Mexico
Cordoya is indebted TO tne
brings pure cold mountain MStS'Jia
! across deep valley To- a hundred pupllc
/ fountains. These reservoirs are also
! excellent places for observing peculiar
] phases OF folk-lifes and so are the
| plazas. where the entire population may
| be- seen az least once every day-the
poorer classes lounging and sleeping
| through the u0onude heat. the arlsto-
| Gratis In their rickety coaches ana IAN
daus at the fashionable sunset hour.
! The "pageo dal Gran Capita'- named
| I'M honor OF G0ns8lvo dc Cordoba, one
M Fardlnaud's doughty knights IN the
/ siege OF Granada-ls the pflnclpdl
promenade OF the city During the day
ia IS quite deserted except for sleeping |
I borrars. its double rows OF orange
| trees and japanese medlars turning up |
their dry leaves white with dust AZ |
| nlrht the scene changes as completely |
as on the Prado az Havana BANDS |
play. mnumcroble gas-jets twinkle |
amid the shrubbery, the air Is
DELIGHTFULLY."- COOL.
and the blue dome Of heaven hangs its |
ustrous star-lamps over all The few /
noble families who keep up a ghosuy !
show OF antiquated state. drive POM
pousy to and fro while plebian reyel-
iars swarm the promenade or seated az
little tables. sip hOrchates de chuta or
dulce da azahas-sweet meats made or
orange flowers and water, essentially
Cordoyese In character
Much more beautiful Is the shady
] nfH Il
where the cool plash OF water from In
Vulnerable fountains mlngles with thu
music. and the air Is heavy with the
fragrance OF orange blossoms, Olean-
ders and roses. There Is also the tree
shaded paseo de IN Victoria, extending
10 the distant railway station and, the
Ribera. along the river bank, command
ing fine view Of the bridge, the gypsy
suburb and the crumhling Alcazar
By the way It was the above-men-
toned "Gran Captain Gonsalvo,
who originated the saying so common
I'm Spain that while other cities may bd
better To live ln Cordova is emlnently
the place In which TO be born. It's mar
row paths are so roughly paved that to
walk IN them IS a penance. and us
house walls, whitewashed at least once
, a year. dazzle the suffering eyes. Car
, rlages are not allowed 20 enter any OF
the princlpal streets. and into most Of
them wheeled vehicles could not posi-
bly, force a way. AS twilight approaches
r men are seen clinglng 20 the iron rail-
ings OF all the lower balconies. holding
I | whispered conversations with
THEIR sWEETHEARTs
+ inside the bars This IS the only rec
r ognized method Of courtship, approved
E of parents and guardians since time
r out OF mind, and for a Spaniard 10 neg
{ lect his duty in this respect would be TO
[ brand himself a laggard in love, UNI
s worthy the smiles Of any senorita.
20 A century ago there were many rich
r and populous mOnasteries Ia COrdOvai
g but nearly all Of them have been desc
a Grated. or turned into schools and
hospitals. Prominent among the few
that remain Is Santa Marta, OF the Jer-
onymltes; the monastery Of the Padres
& de Garcia, near the barracks OF Al
II fonso XIII. and the Fuen Santa, just
"a outside the city walls The once
u | wealthy convent OF La Trinidad is now
4 occupied by a corps Of "Remonta de
+. Cordoba" or government horse-train-
a ers, whose business is TO break the
e wild horses Of the sierra for the Span
A ish cavalry. They wear short trousers
~ turned up, with red and brown boots,
Z laced and open az the Sides
m The provincial museum would hardly
" be worth a visit were Il not for a few
4. Moorish relies. Among the latter Is a
: fine collection OF spears the brlm Of
4 an Arabian WELL IN green pottery in
"A scrIbed with a text from the Koran;
, and a bell OF the ninth century, with a
n | M0zarabic legend. that hung Ia the
10 tower Of San Sebastian, the Oldest con-
>. vent IN Spain.
=. A number OF delightful excursions
= may be made Ia the neighb0rhoOd Of
n, I Cordoya. on foot In the saddle OF en-
~ coche Within easy walking distance
y. Is the section known as Alcazar Vie
% go y NuevO-just beyond the city gate
70 which Philip III caused 90 be erected on
m the ruins OF the Moorish Babu-l-kan-
~ terah. (Gate OF the Bridge) The Alca-
/, Ear royal palace proper. was built on
80 the site Of RoierC's castle. the last OF
- the Gothic whose father Theofred
~ was a duke OF Cordoya. During Arab
:, supremacy, the Archeplscopal palace
81 stable and huerta were undedr one roof
,s Later the lnquisition occupied part OF
,,ss the same building; and half a century
" ago IT'S lower portion was converted in
90 stables for the royal stations. A
large open space close by called the
Campo Santa, was the scene Of many
's' / Christian martyrdoms under the Mos
IS lens To visit the old hlgh-WalleC
u, garden OF the AlcaZ0r one must obtair
NV special permission Ia town, and als'
tu pay an admission Fee In IL the orangl
ne trees and roses are stil nOurishng-
III their llneal descendants-which tn
l- first Arab ruler in Spain planted TO
u' his sultanas pleasure hundreds o
n years ago The place seems haunte'
Ter by the shades OF dark-eyed beautie
4 H..F "a of then
ma during the five centuries OF Moorish &C
lI' cupat0n.
lse a favorite excursion Is 10 the HERNIA
me tiges OF Val ParaisO-"Nale OF Para
no dse'-in the Sierra Morena, four mile
Ia distant. A carriage may go most q
me the way. but mule-back Is better, 70
no. the road is extremely rough In place
"a, and finally ascends by paths too stee
tu- for wheels. Part Of the way run
en- through
al CHARMING WOODS.
OF bright IN sprlngtlme with clstus an
es' purule irIs-but not altogether sal
the from robbers. who may follow one ot
Of | from the CITY The brayest eXperenC
ties "a creepy sensation at the sightot arme
an figures coming down the narrow tral
but generally II is only some returnn
or visitor or the hermits going TO tow
hol who pass with the ttlenulA opaul5
OF salutauon. va listed con dos iGe
he'd he with vou). The Brothers Of u
ce- Hermitage are now less than twent
ose Their habits are brown and they folio
The he rule OF saint Paul. the herml
the close by. on the mountain side W.
once the most magnificent Moofl'
structure I'M Cordoya-the palace
Azzahra. built FOR his bride by q
)m- Caliph Annaslr II ives begun IN Il
pots wear $50. by artists from Bagdad an
'lth Constantinople--lO0 600 men, 1900 mule
In and 100 camels being employed IN u
pics work. The palace contained $500 ~
be. lars Of various kinds OF precious ma
ne. bles. lis great hall, the Khalaiat. hi
Ola. SIGHT doors oyerlaid with gold and e