Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1900-11-15
THE SEASONS WRAPS.

of the outside garment that can be
trusted to mean warmth and style in
one Is rapidly becoming vital. The
autumn has been a warm one, and
there have been days when the bare
suggestion OF coat seemed gratui-
tous offence; but in spite of delay cold
days are coming, and wise folk will let
them find preparations made.
The winter display Includes many |
styles. Long Empire coats are seen;
L'Aiglon oapes are offered; three
quarter Russian and box models |
are to be worn, and withal we have |
REFER jackets, Etons and blouses in a
multitude of variations, to say nothing
Of evening oares and carriage wraps.
But, while all this is true. selection is
not 81 difficult as it would appear, for
the reason that the process of elimi-
nation readily reduces the available
number to far narrower limits.
Undoubtedly the REFER, that falls
only few inches below the waist, is
the jacket of all others for all round
hard service. The prevailing models
are in black cheyiot melton, beaver
aud the dark Oxford gray, with collar
and rever5 of fur, velvet, peau de sole
or the material, as preferred. One of
the smartest is made up with mink
but Alaska sable is shown among less
costly fur, and Persian lamb and chin
chilla are favorites among those people
to whom cost is matter of little
moment. As safe general rule, the
plain tailored sort are worn, with fur
boas, collarettes or scarfs; but fur Of
all sorts grows more and more costly,
and prices are rapidly becoming pro-
hibitive to all but the few. As yet,
the question Of warmth has not pre-
scented itself in any insistent way; but
the later Heason is certain to show that
something else must be devised for
those wearers whose tastes are exact
ing, but whose purses are not of the
Fortunatus' sort.
For immediate wear, feather boas
and charming hoas OF silk, with
chenille edges and danglers, are used,
and it is possible they may continue
the season through; but We may look
for some fascinating scarfs and the
like, or signs are strangely mist cad.
Buttons are of the tailored sort, or
handsome smoked pearl, as preferred.
Smooth faced cloth is the choice for
dress wear; cheViot for less formal use,
and Oxford is mostly confined to bust
ness, or stormy days.
The smartest short wrap is an Elton,
or blouse. In CLOTH the former takes
first place; but in yelours many
blouses are shown that are fascinating
in the extreme. Preferably the jacket
has elongated fronts, but the question
of revers becomes one of choice. An
exceedingly smart model rolls back,
from the chin to the end of The fronts,
and forms the taLering sort that adds
so much t. the figure, while the neck
is finished with high storm collar.
In many instances, the revers are
fur, chinchilla, fox or what not, but
braiding or appliques over black or
white are effective and much liked.
The white foundation adds to the
elegance, and is often peau de sole or
satin than woul of any sort but the
black may be either cloth or silk. For
visiting and the like, lines OF gold are
often added, but, personally, think
them only desirable on the white. One
of the most elegant Etuns yet seen is
in velours, with the revers of cream
peau de sole OVERLAND with an applique
of white cloth outlined with gold
thread. Another shows Russian lace
over the white, but is without hint
of gold; while the most tasteful Of all
black models ara confined To hraiding
and heavy lace that shows not CLINT
of metal even of the most precious un
alleged sort. Blouses are all black, or
black with tiny vests of white, as may
be. A good model in velours that
allows of close fitting or rolling open,
sthe weather may demand, buttons
in double breasted style, with small
silk olives aud loops, but can be
turned back to form tapering revers,
that are self faced and reveal narrow
little waistcoat of white satin edged
with gold. At the neck, is straight
high collar that is closed, one pointed
aud Tapped over the ether or allowed
to remain open, as preferred. Wher
closed, itmeans warmth; when opened
it reveals the stock and tie worn be-
meath. Sleeves are variously the Bishop
the Paquin and the bell; but to my
mind the last are most practical and
satisfactory, although much depends
90 the wearer and what best suits hel
style. The Bishop model is simple
and allows of braided bands; tn,
Paquin means full cuff of materia
to match the revers, but the simple bel
slips over the sleeves of the gown will
ease, and provides just enough flare t,
allow glimpses of the lace or soft sill
worn beneath.
Long coats are ulsters or dress coats
as occasion demands, and take varet
;of forms. listers have not been 81
generally worn for many years, and ar
admirable for business and mornin
wear, as we'll as for travelling. Fo
the most part, they are of cloth o
cheviot in black or some quiet tone
and fit snugly, having one or tw
,coachmen's capes. One that remenl
Der specially is in rich hunters gree
melton, and is laid in three bog plat
ito the waist at the back, in two a
each side Of the front. At the waist
it is belted; and below, falls free
while it opens in short pointed revei
ct the neck, and includes cape tina
falls Just over the shoulders. The Ion
box models are oftener seen in tar
though black is correct. Primari Is
they were designed for carriage wear
automobile coats was the name undo
which they appeared; and as q matte
OF fact, they are not comfortable fl
walking, but some few are seen on th
streets nevertheless. Three quartz
coats, whether in box or Empil
styles, are much to DO preferred II
comfort, although it must be admitte
the former are try ing to all but the ia
Islander figures. The Empire model
with their shortwaists, are far mo
becoming and graceful. Some of ii
handsomest are made with box -plaite
skirts falling from the shallow yok
and include genuine Empire rever
with their deep points. For your
wearers, the color is light, as state
above; and the style is much liked Fl
elderly women, to whom it is @
ceedipply beoominp and for THAR no