The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1900-06-09
ALL ROADS LEAD TO TOLEDO
THE IMPERIAL CITY FHICH SPAN
ISL HISTORIANS

Describe as "The Crown of Spain and
tho Light of she World'-PeeuIinri-
ties of Railroad Travelling lin tho
land of Mauana-nItgrations of the
Ngerinos.
Especial CORRESPONDENCE of the Journal
and Courier.)
Toledo, Spain. April 12.-It is tedl-
Gus journey from Merida to this lofs-
eXtinguished Light of the World, WIN
little to recommend it of scenic beauty
and nothing of comfort, You may
choose between two route5-one Hollow
ing the Guadiana river most of the way
the other the Tagus, both necessitatihs
many changes of cars Our party decl-
ded upon the much shorter route OF the
Guadiana, though half of it retraced our
steps over the monotous plains so lale-
~ traversed. The pleasant EngIsn
family with whom we Joined forces at
Cadiz for the tour of Spain, preferred
the roundabout route to Toledo, Via
Badaioz and Caceres, as 1t led through
unvisited territory. The parting ar
rangement was that we, who expected
to arrive at least day in advance OF
the others, should secure quarters Tor
all In the Fonda Imperial said to be
the best hotel in Toledo-and nave
apartments waiting for our beated
friends. When we finally reached the
ultima thule, some seventy hours later
bodra epled and worn from sitting bolt
upright two long nights in the uncom-
~ Ioy, met at the
station by the English party fresh ana
trim after a nights rest in the hotel,
they having arrived on the previous af-
ternoon! However, this experience
docs not establish rule to so by, for
1.-THE longest way round" is by no means
always ''the surest in this land of ma
mana.
Most Of the Spanish railways were
built by French capital, at enormous
cost; and all who have suffered from
them will agree that they are about the
worst constructed and mismanaged
railways on the face of the earth. They
appear to be run solely for the amuse-
ment of the employees, tarrying long IN
unexpected places for no discoveraple
reason and paying not the slightest
heed to making connections. And the
most aggravating thing to the foreign
err Is that nobody cares the least bit Tor
his troubles. Native passengers never
having known any better service take
the unnecessary delays quite as mat
terfof course and utterly fail to compre-
bend why any traveller should raise a
rumpus over SO trifling an incident as
missing the through train-Tthereby haV-
ing to sit up another night in the com
mon coach-merely because the train
waited a couple of hours at cross
roads junction for some powerful Hidal-
COS wife to get her children ready for
ride to the next town.
But even the creeping pace of ten
miles an hour--the average speed or
these trains, if one may so misuse a
words better than the old way OF don
key-back transit in crossing such drea-
ry regions as the plains of CASTLE and
La Mancha; and in pleasanter parts of
the country the traveller blesses the
slowness which enables him to enjoy
the prospect longer The rate of pro-
gress is usually restricted by law on
account Of the danger incurred by the
spreading of rails exposed to the full
heat of the sun on sandy plains; but
though the law vigorously discourages
speed, it has nothing to say in regard
to keeping up with schedule time and
foufilling contracts with ticket buyers.
Fifty years ago there We're only twenty
kilometres of railway in the whole
country Now about nine thousand Kill
onetres are in operation. and half as
many more under concession. The best
stations are extremely poor, and the
filthiness of every place to which rail-
way servants and Spanish passengers
of every class have access Is notorious,
Most trains have one better and some
what cleaner coach labelled "Reservado
para oras"-reserved for ladies'.
Another singular feature is small,
square closet-carriage, attached to some
trains containing two tiny compart
ments set side by side, marked Para
Seniors" and ''Para Senoras." All the
railway officials, from guards to brake
men, ride "first-ciass" often occupying
half the available space in the carriage
and always the best seats, whatever
may become of the poor passengers who
have paid extortionate charges, packed
like sardines in box
And then the eternal trouble with lug
gage would cause an archangel to dis
play his temper. lnQeeQ, tfle least you
carry about of either commodity-lug
gage or temper--on a journey through
Spain the better for your pleasure.
Each passenger is permitted to take
with him into the coach one satchel, or
bundle and the rest of his baggage is
relegated to the van. Delays at the
stations In getting baggage ready to
pass, satisfying customs officials and
paying extra charges for overweight,
are most vexatious and cause you to
miss many train; and as no checks
are given, and robberies of luggage are
frequent, you will find it well to put no
valuables into your trunks. The soft
answer that turneth away wrath is par
ticularly needed here, often accompa-
MED by the soothing influence of a sill
Yer peso and always by the exaggera
ted politeness of the Latin. TO lose pa
tience with the stupedest Spanish Off
cial Is also to lose your cause, inevitably
and irrevocably. Whatever happens,
strive to maintain an unruffled demean-
or and to out-do the Spaniard himself
in his own coin of meaningless compli-
ment, remembering always that "Si-
lence is golden when nothing can be
gained by speech. Every S paniard,