davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-05-13

med at the sides with strips of the
braid. The bodice was softened by a
deep yoke of white embroidered linen,
through which were woven blue silk
pastilles. a girdle of white silk was
finished behind with draped blue silk
scarf with fringed ends.
Linen and foulard are frequently
combined, and blue and white patterns
still hold their high place in public es-
TEEN. Foulard twill is popular mate
rial; SO is dentelle, a fabric with strips
OF lace woven through its satiny sur
race. Saline. ecossais, japonais and ca
maien are also popular materials.
Lace is used more lavishly than ever
IL appears even on tailor made gowns
have seen it used to form bolero jack
cts In coarse quality. No bodice front
Is apparently complete without it. The
lace robe for evening wear is certain to
retain its hold on the public for some
time. 1t costs more or less to begin
with. but ii can be changed so often to
wear with different colored slips that
its days Of usefulness are long. Black
slips as we'll as white ones are made
FOR youthful wear. The blouses of street
gowns are considered most correct
when made of coarse Russian lace dyed
butter color. This Is very effective
when combined with folded or plated
chiffon.
chantlly is said to be the lace decreed
for popular favor, while guipures and
the renaissance will be retired. There
is new luXeuil lace that is often substiE
tuted for embroideries. although these
latter have by no means yet seen their
day. Instead of being flat this lace is
gathered, the pattern being combined
braid and coarse bobbin net. Just Mt
present there seems to he craze for
embroidcries in all materials. Some of
the favorites for evening wear are en-
broideries of pearl and silver paillettcs.
Those made of embroidered silk flowers
wrought on chiffon or some similar di-
aphanous material are also very much
used and are very rich in effect.
| CATHERINE TALBOT.
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-05-13

much influence had Eugene that the
emperor ordered the city authorities to
change the number to 10, and for 10
years 10 it has remained. Eugene OBJ
jected also to the name Joseph and
commanded him TO change 1t TO Felix.
which the little hairdresser and coutu-
rier did with great humility and expe-
dition. Then she advised him to dec
crate his shop in mauve plush. because
mauve was her favorite color. and she
meant to make it the fashion. On
these conditions she agreed to make Fee
liz the fashion. and she succeeded. for
his genius for dress was very great.
Felix II added millinery to the couture
and dressmaking departments. while
the third Felix, without royal patron
age. has become the richest ana most
famous couturier in Paris.
The popularity of foulard this season
appears to be undisputed. Felix IS MAX
ing it leading fabric in the construc-
ton of his best model costumes. The
skirt in his hands assumes slight full
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-05-13

fures. 1t has been a work of time and
research to present the costumes cor
rectly and attract!vely. and NJ. Felix
seems to have been we'll able to follow
out the wishes of the commissioners
The recognition he has received recent
~ in connection with the bestowal OF
the exposition appointment has elevat-
ed him apparently to that supreme po-
sition in his profession which was occu-
pied during life by the late NJ. Worth
The rise OF the Maison Felix was due
TO the Empress Eugenic While still
the SeEorita MontiJo. with her mother
then 4 resident of the palace OF the
Elysee and accorded almost royal hon
ors. Eugene was suddenly robbed by
death of her usual hairdresser. There
was to be Il grand ball that night, and
messenger was dispatched to secure
substitute. lie returned with certain
NJ. Joseph. who pleased her so we'll that.
after few trials, she told him she
would appoint him her coiffcur in ordi-
nary. One morning her coupe stopped
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-05-13
Recipe For Geld cren m.

The life OF the skin is the oil which
nature stores up under it and sends 10
the surface as required. AS we grow
older the supply gets less; thus the skin
shrives and the muscles relax, and if
we wish to retain our freshness little
assistance should be given by feeding
the skin with the proper oils. The fol-
lowing is good: Get one pound OF fat
mutton and melt 1t down slowly in an
enameled saucepan. When thoroughly
melted down. pour 1t through hair
sieve: then stir into it as much slycerin
as there Is fat. add a few drops OF per-
fume and keep stirring gently until it
begins to harden. when it should be
put into little jars or wide necked bot
ties.
Rub the face every night with this,
pressing it particularly into any wrin-
kle appearing. and rub it Off in the
morning. The above Is said TO be the Sc
cret OF Nine. Paui's good complexion
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-05-13
F.. PRETTY LAMP SHADES


'ENHE most fanciful of shades are still
q used on parlor lamps. The intro
auction of the Dresden and the
oeitt shades has made it easy for any
one to construct these pretty auxiliarjes
10 the furnishing of a house. delft
ana Dresden shades are made of plain
water color paper, on which the pattern
- outlined and then painted in Wat
.e"u shaues on which are painted shep-
"croeSses ana shepherd lads are pretty
"i" popular. The delft shades are orna-
h'chted IN different shades of blue IN
imitation Of the scenes on delft china
fahcifui flower shades made with silk
pc,"Is are liked as coverings for electric
HSht globes. Rose, hydraneea. non
Ps' tui!p ana petunia shades NAV he
purchased in the shops, but as the nrice
asked Tor them is usually out of all nro-
portion to their cost many persons nre-
Ter to make their own.
Wheh Hover shades are made tho
crinp'hS or the leaves is the most dim
c e,,, part Oh me work to accomplish
SiiA Vi sau@e leaves may be nodded in
the same way that paper flower In,yos
are made to retain their shave M
leaves are mounted on n founflotion
shade OF plain. thin silk. with nart -
the petals tackled so that thew cover ~
upper part OF the foundation, while tho
others are put on to fall over the Iov,sr
part of the shade
For the high. small lamps. which ,ra
more ornamental than useful. the nIait
ed chiiton shades laid over a foundatior
OF gauZe or silk and finished with nor
ders OF ruching are easy to make md
satisfactory in effect For the ebert
parlor lamps shades made of the chif-
ron and edged with a flounce of 1eco
headed by row of ruching are pretty,
FOR the hanging center lamps the most
satisfactory shades are those of gath
cred lusterless silk finished with q trim
ming of fringe.
Here are some directions for making
a shade for the sitting room lamp which
cannot fail to delight the children. Cut
out piece Of paper in the shape of the
shade and try it on the lamp to see that
II fits. This pattern should be a piece
of paper about threc-d quarters of a cir
Gle and with a small circle removed in
The center. this to allow the lamp CHM
ney to go through. Lay the pattern over
piece of green glazed cardboard and
cut out the shade.
The sketch shows the finished shade
representing a marine scene, with
yachts on the water and the moon and
stars overhead. The outline of the pic
lure should be sketched or traced on the
shade and then parts OF it cut out with
sharp penknife. The sails and the
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-05-13
FRILLs or FASHION. ]

One revival of fashion is the white
tulle bow worn at the back of the neck
of light silk theater waists.
The bandanna ties worn a few months
ago are supplanted by the softer and
lighter tones or the Persian patterns
Gourrha algrets, which resemble a
bunch of daisies blown by the wind, are
one Of the fashionable hat trimmings.
Lace boleros. with black velvet rib
bon run through them, are q useful as
we'll as effective addition to the bodice
needing fresh touch.
New spotted silk muslins In all black
and mixed with accordion plated black
chiffon form lovely mourning gowns.
Evening gowns may certainly be elab-
crate, with that curiously simple elab-
Grafton which necessitates the best
taste with an almost unlimited expendi-
ture.
Stitchings and tuckings form an i'm
pcrtant part of blouses and accordion
plated mousselines and chiffons are
again to the fore. When worn without
coat, these look best with a high.
swathed band or broad ribbon twisted
deity round the waist.
Since the tailor gown has become an
accepted feature of the feminine ward
robe, the vest is an important item for
especially open fronted coats will be
very fashionable, and women who de-
sire to vary their coat costumes are or
dering two or three sleeveless waist-
coats.
Toques are the prevailing style OF
| hat. perhaps. but there are hats with
iluted brims, hats with bell crowns and
hats with almost no crowns at all.
Polka dots of straw on black malines
formed into n toque are very effective.
Straw applied to net and lace applique
on straw are especially pretty features
of the new millinery.
Nearly every gown has n narrow belt
made of stitched satin or taffeta drawn
| and fastened invisibly in front in the
effort to secure the Partisan glrdle eff
feet. which makes the back appear
short and the line over the bust to the
waist unnaturally long. 1t is these de-
tails in dress that now distinguish the
smart from the dowdy woman.
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-05-13

bodies OF the boats in the foreground
are cut out. Those on the horizon
should be outlined with pin pricks. The
moon must be cut out and the stars
represented in pin pricks. Over the
places cut out for the sails white tissue
paper should be pasted IN The DUCk and
brown paper for the bodies OF the boats.
| Green tissue paper is pasted back OF the
water. Real light should shine through
the moon and stars.
Next fasten the edges of the shade
together. This may be done by taking
n penknife and splitting the inside
edges of the shade, then fitting them to-
gether and cumming them. Other de-
signs may be used in place of the ma
rine one. Such as include waterfalls,
rivers and skies are most effective.
On the upper part of the shade the
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-05-13
oAR1s. April 2s.-Good dressing, like


charity, covers a multitude OF
shortcomings. The saving grace OF
fine clothes is exemplified In LIE Be
guin." the play in which Rejane is APP
pearinK at the Vaudeville theater. Re
jane always affects delicate shades. and
she finds the faint pastel colors now In
vogue very much to her taste. In one
act OF LIE Begun" she appears in a
dainty home dress of grayish mauve
cloth, with an open bodice over "a vest
of white muslin. a deep fichu of lace
falls over the vest and gimp orna-
ments. The sleeves of the gown are cut
to the elbows and finished off with deep
frills of embroidered mousseline de sole.
A stiff linen collar with turned over
points and short black tie encircle
the neck, and band of mauve velvet
the waist. The skirt is laid in wide box
plaits.
In another scene Nine. Rejane looks
superb In dinner dress of white t,1lle
over plated pink slip. The bodice
cut with short. pointed bolero Jacket
opens over waistcoat of white lace
trimmed above and at the waist by
ohnds OF black lace. The sleeves con-
sis. OF epaulets of silver spangled
,uiie' oands of black lace. puffings of
tuile and spreading sleeves of cmbroid-
cred tulle reaching almost to the wrist
me skirt Is of tulle incrusted with
silver cloth and sprayed with branches
OIL mowers In silver spangles. The skirt
is open In the back to show an under
skirt of plated white tulle inset with
bias bands OF lace.
another dinner gown Is or yellow
satin cut in redingote shane and OPEN
Ing over an underdress of embroidered
Six muslin. The bodice Is cut in a
deep scallop over the white silk NOUS
seine. draped to suggest seashel. It
IL framed by the folds of q mauve
SILK scarf that pass invisibly over the
shoulders and appear on the bodice
'front.' TO reappear below the redingote
waist tied to form long streamers. The
redtngote is edged with silver en-
oroidery and fastened on the bodice by
TWO large paste buckles. a very high
coiiar, open In front over band Of
piack embroidered mousselne de sole
gives a novel touch to the very chic cos
tune.
Mile. Avril, the pretty young actress
VINO divides the honors in this play with
NINE. Rejane. is also tastefuily attred
one of her costumes is for dinner wear
also ana is heavily trimmed with lace
ana openwork embroidery. the latter in
,ioet silk. The undertakes is of EN-
proidered silk muslin. The redingote
bodice Is pointed at the waist and fin
ished with revers OF violet silk The
sleeves consist OF great puffs OF the silk
muslin brought from shoulder to elbow
ana headed by small epaulet of opcn-
work embroidery. The redingote opens
In the back to show an underskirt of
plated silk muslin.
street dress OF blue cashmere. with
boiero jacket open over u waistcoat of
lnauVe velvet, is donned by Mile. Avril
In one OF her most effective scenes. The
smartness OF the combination of blue
ana mauve causes n fiutter of interest
among each new lot of feminine audi
tors at the performances. The sleeves
nave the three tier cpaulets which form
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-05-13

metal support for attaching it to the
CHIMNEY is added. These fastenings
may be purchased in the shops.
Gauze lamp shades are very easy to
mako. Six shaped panels are cut with
pointed edges embroidered with button
mole silk. On each panel some little
pattern is embroidered in silk. The
most satisfactory way OF putting this
on is with silk the same shade as the
gauze. Fer instance. II rose pink gauze
Is employed the embroidery should be
in various shades of deeper pink. When
pale blue or green is used, the effect is
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-05-13
An Expcnnive End

A well known leader of fashion Is
eeifttcctiio OF tiny.
dressed dolls that are models OF the
frocks she wears herself. When the
dressmaller sends home a new garment.
she duplicates it by q tiny model on Il
doll. Everything must be perfect. even
down to the real lace and solid silver or
gold buttons and diamond buckles. The
dolls are ranged in glass case in their
owners dressing room. with the date
OF their creation underneath. =
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-05-13

Silk muslin with brocaded boleros Is
employed for tea gowns made up with
bands of fur, and a great many of them
are made as princess dresses, with the
fashionable cluny or maltese insertions
let in from the neck to the feet. Coats
OF silver and jet naillettes are supple
mentcd for tea gowns by gossamer un-
derdresses and have light colored sashea
round the waist. More blue is employed
for these dresses than any other color.
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-05-13
Economizing Lnce.

Just now so much lace is worn in the
way Of ties, scarfs, etc, that poor girl
is inclined TO give up the struggle to be
In the swim OF the moment. as lace Is
such perishable wear. But little lace
goes long way If it is carefully wash
Ell and only kept for special occasions.
Also lace scarf or tie will last four
times longer IL the bow is made sep
arate and fastened on by tiny pins than
IL 1t is tied every time 1t is put on.
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-05-13

chiffon studded by Jewels may be ap-
piled at intervals along the rows OF
ruching.
Very handsome frames arc made OF
pale satin mounted smoothly on stiff
foundations and appliqued with hand
painted panels done on boiling cloth or
some diaphanous material.
EDITH LAWRENCE.
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-05-13
Cleaning Brnss.vork.

Chased brass goods, such as are gem
orally known as Benares work. are cas-
lily cleaned in this way: Wash in hot
soap and water and dry thoroughly.
Cut lemon In half. and with it rub the
brass. When 1t looks clean, rinse in
warm water. dry and then polish we'll
with channels leather. Chased work
should never be cleaned with any kind
OF powder,
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-05-13

-
8 LATE PARIS FASHIONS s.
e 20


collar In the back, but are otherwise
close and plain. The jacket is. of course.
pointed, as are all the jackets now. and
at one side a scarf of blue silk depends
from the waist. The skirt is quite
plain. except for series of narrow
plaits which open in the rear.
Those who attend the exposition will
have an excellent opportunity to study
the modes Of the Marie Antoinette Pc
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-05-13

exhibit will also contain the album be-
longing to Mile. Berth. the Queens mo-
diste. in which appear representations
of the toilets which she prepared week.
ly for her mistress. AS there is a tend
ency now to revive the fashions of Ma
RE Antoinette's day. the album and
dresses Will have special interest to wo-
men visitors.
Not less fascinating will be the Palais
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-05-13

more satisfying IL contrasting shades
OF the blue or green are applied.
Nothing could be handsomer than the
jeweled shades which are now seen in
the shops. They are not very difficult
to make-only 81 little tedious. The
shade is shaped over q foundation of
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-05-13

Rod. for the Musee Carnavalet will ex-
hipit a room furnished exactly like the
queens sitting room in Petit Trianon
ana furnished with articles that once
belonged TO that unfortunate lady.
among them number of her costumes
sun IN a lair state of preserVntion. The
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-05-13
Wearing Real Flowers.

Long stemmed flowers sewed into the
front of the bodice, with plenty Of their
own green. as il they We're growing,
are prettier and more effective than the
ordinary stiff spray. Carnations,
though somewhat expensive at first.
last we'll and can be worn two, or even
three, evenings in succession, provided
they are placed in a jug on return from
dance or n party.
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-05-13

it down along the edges of the cut out
pattern. The silk that is to form the
covering is next put on. 1t should be
larger than the buckram foundation TO
allow hem for turning down. y very
narrow hem is allowed along the edge
Of the cut out portions OF the shade.
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-05-13
The Lnce Bolero.

The lace bolero is still seen on some
of the evening dresses. and this is beau
tfu. in the real fabric over Il delicate
tint of rose pink. which will become
popular as an evening shade.
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-05-13

ness over the hips. One OF the hand
soonest of his efforts had the bodice
composed entirely of pieces cut sep
arately and overlapping, while each
piece was outlined by white silk braid.
The skirt opened on one side to show
an undertaking of the foulard, trim
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-05-13

brilliantly translucent serve the pur-
pose. Ruby beads are generally the
best. The beads are sewed around the
pattern six at time. After each group
is fastened down the needle should he
passed through the last bead in it to
fasten the next group securely. The
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-05-13

at his door, No. IS. on the Faubourg st.
Honore. Eugene glanced at the num-
Der and frowncd. When she entered
the shop, she said:
Monsieur your number must be
changed; 1t is useless to reckon on sue
cess with an unlucky number" So
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-05-13
LUNCHEON OR TEA.

BEEF oLIvES-Cut some slices OF cold roast
beef, spread them with forceIneat made OF two
iablespoonfuls OF bread crumbs, tablespoonful
OF suet the firm fat OF cold roast beef. good
seasoning OF chopped parsley. herbs cayenne, nut
meg and salt ard moisten with q beaten egg.
Roll each slice; secure it with string. Have
ready pint OF thickened brown stock favored
with little wine French vinegar. Warm the
olives in il for hour. Place border OF boiled
rice on the dish, garnish with alternate salspoon-
tuis OF chopped parsley and chopped picked cap
seums arrange the olives in the center and strain
the sauce over them
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-05-13

dc Costume. in which NJ. Felix has so
cleVerly represented the history of
dress. Miniature shops of the different
periods are to be shown, and in them
the shopmen or shopwomen will dis
play the wares suitable to that age, in
Guiding everything from shoes TO Golf
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-05-13

PRUNES A la MARIE.-steep half pound Of
prunes overnight. Next day pour off the water
from them and put in saucepan with halt
pound OF sugar. Then boil 10 sirup put in ths
prunes and stew gently till tender Remove the
stones. crack them and put the kernels back with
the fruit. This is then to be placed in glasi
dish. Add few drops OF cochncal to the sirup
boil up and pour over the prunes. Served wiki
whipped cream, this Is dish for king aud vsrI
different from the dreadful mess commonly know
as stewed prunes.
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-05-13

cutter rows of beads are put on first. In
case the pattern consists OF bowknots.
as on the shade I describe. the
center of each knot should he finished
OFF with jewel and the edges bordered
by rows of tiny chiffon ruching.
An UNDERLYING of silk is then put on
the shade. and the upper and lower silk
coverings are neatly sewed together
around the edges. a wide, full ruche
of chiffon or silk should then be sewed
around the upper and lower edges OF
the shade and down the side to hide the
place whore II is Joined together. To
further ornament the shade festoons OF
bebe ribbon held in place by choux OF
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-05-13
DINNER.

LEMON CUSTARD.-rake two and hall ounces
Of lea! sugar, juice Of two lemons, the yolks Of
four eggs and one pint of boiling water Pour
the water on TO the sugar; then add the lemon
juice, which must have been strained. Beat the
yolks well. When the lemon and water Is cool
enough. pour IL 20 the yolSs. Mix well and
strain into a small saucepan or jug. Place the
Jug in a saucepan OF boiling water and stir one
way till the mixture thickens. IL must not boil.
or it will curdle and be spoiled. When cold.
serve in custard glasses with dust Of nutmeg
grated over the top.
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-05-13

buckram. on which the pattern to be
jeweled is outlined in lead pencil. and
then cut out with a sharp knife or scis-
sors Over the buckram layer OF
brussels is laid and stitched fat on the
buckram, with rows of stitches holding
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-05-13

When the silk has been put on, begin
to apply the beading. The beads to
form the teweled work should be Sc
lected by artificial light and tested by
holding up so that the light may pass
through them. Only those which are
The Chickasha daily express. (Chickasha, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1899-current, 1900-12-28
Warnine order

In the United States oour IN the Indian Ter
ritory. southern District February Term. 1871.
John wells, pipindf.
Lowefy II. Wells defendant
The defendant. LoWery Z Wells Is warned
70 appear "a thia Court IA thirty DAYS aud an
swer thee ompiaiut of the plaintin. John Wells.
Witness the Honorable hosea ToRnsend.
Judge Of said Court. and the seal thereof this
lat day of December ie0O
tsEAL. c. d CAMPBELL Clerk.
BY J. w speak. Deputy.
II. L. 0rigsbys attorney for plainiin
NJ. M Beavers. attorney for n0l-resident dc
fanaaut