New-York tribune., 1900-01-14

to the boundary line where the pumpkin and
Goblin met. The great discovery was to be made
at this succuent frontier, at which each 1rult
had played the great game of give and take
Each had imbibed the flavor and richness Of It's
neghbor with result of the most satisfactory
kind. Full of his triumph, the good man called
in a wise father of the hamlet to taste and re-
port. He was q Devonshire worthy, and MS
judgment is historic: This dish will be better
if eaten with clotted cream and sugar" That
unassaflable judgment has been entered in all
the high courts of culinary record, and is in
far-reaching operation at the present time.
OF course, this primitive pie" which was no
pie did not long retain its rudimentary form.
But every subsequent development proceeded
from the great discovery that apple and pumpkin
were hail fellow we'll met often as they
encountered each other under the kindly roof
tree of a crust. Each had, in measure, the de-
fects of it's qualities The apple was sometimes
a little harsh and "crabby." while the pump
kn's suavity, apt at times to become monoto-
nous was sensibly relieved by the piqUancy of
it's companion. 1t was an excellent amalgana-
tion the fame of which spread all sides. But
the conditions of success were huctuatlng and
full of peril. For success depended on the
crust, and we know that nothing short of fem
inine genius ever did, or can, attain perfection
in pastry. On this head books utterly fail
Recipes mere pitfalls, and even ingredients
are fallaces. Everything is in the manipulation
and that must be governed by inspiration
swift and subtle that DIR. Johnson himself
could neither have felt nor formulated it,
KnaCk "the wise il call,' and gratefully leave
it to it's pOsSassOTs. And the art is all the nicer
that even on its threshold the idea of classifca-
ton must be admitted. There is pie-and pie
Who will deny the value of the homely moth
er's crust whose subjugating powers are never
forgotten in after years? In such shape did
pumpkin pie make its early bid for popularity
1t a substantial family dish, pumpkin or
apple predominating according to season or
occasion. And it was at this stage of its prog
ress that pumpkin pie crossed the Atlantic to
become delight and almost a symbol in it's
new home.
But with difference. With so great differ
ence indeed, that the founder of the family
would certainly not be able to recognize his
descendants The glorious name of pie" alone
remains to invite the attention of the antiauary
But what a pie! y mere piece of open fancy
work Roohess, and with such slender founda-
tion that it can no longer support retaining
walls; perhaps a few crossbars of sublimated
pastry added if in mockery; this atomy of
pie! Well, no. But it is a kickshaw of great
merit, very choice confectiOn, ali the same
For our old friend has now assumed the guise
and department of Cheesecake and we'll he
acts the part. With eggs and milk. sugar and
spice, and just enough pumpkin to absorb them
a delicate sweetmeat results which is entitled
to our respectful attention. But pie" is now
only a courtesy title; while poor Sir Pumpkin
is known, according to the strict Bostonian card
Punkin.