Evening journal., 1900-02-13
WEARING OF MOURNING
USE OF BLACK BY WIDOWS MADE
OBLIGATORY BY CUSTOM.

CoE Or blACh 81 WIDOWS MADE
OBLIGATORY BY CUSTOM.
A widows mourning is always con
sidered the deepest in character and
the fashions for il are seldom modified.
although the materials used depend
upon the means of the bereaved family
For street wear bombazine and other
deep mourning fabrics are selected
usually. The skirt Of the gown is
shrOuded in crepe laid on fiat or in
folds. English crepe is the best, as It
proves to be the most lasting. Modih-
cations result in having the skirt
faced in different widths with the
same crepe, and sometimes as a matter
of economy folds Of the material of tho
gown are intermingled with those OF
the crepe. The trimming on bodices
is in accordance, but the style of it does
not always preserve the rigid severity
Of the skirt. In fact, modern mourn
ing goes far afeld into the fashions
of the hour for gowns, wraps and hats.
as we are fully aware; but a widows
mourning, to be in the best Of taste
should avoid for the first year anything
approaching fanciful modes. There are
dull cloths for mourning use made up
in tailor style, with stitchings only
for finish, which are required in every
outfit Of this character. Suitable jackets
OF nantes accompany them.
For the first three months widows
wear their long crepe wells over their
faces on the street. After that period
the veil is thrown backward and small
face wells of tulle or fine net are worn.
For one year this style of street dress
is to be observed, with the accessories
of fur, lynx or Persian lamb, as well as
black fox in the proper season. Many
widows continue to wear their long
wells for two and three years. That
is a question of personal feeling and Of
circumstances as well. 1t is a matter
also OF personal taste whether a widow
adopts that slight hint of a white lisse
or carleton bonnet cap, which is fire.
quently seen worn. At one time it was
considered de rigueur, but now only
those who prefer it wear it and moth
ing but a fine thread Of white is con-
sidered the proper thing In the
matter of wells and gloves, that is, in
stead Of English crepe, which is ex-
pensive, a fine silk and wool yelling
is adopted, and suede gloves are prefer
red to glace kid, the latter by far the
most lasting. But when English crepe
is worn suede gloves are more appro-
pirate.
Widows who have reached middle
life seldom return to gay colors. Others
confine themselves to puppies or to a
mingling Of purple and black for street
wear. and vary this in Summer weather
with black and white combinations.
making dressy additions to bodices
with white mousseline, gauze and lace.
Grays were once looked upon as the
proper thing to pass out Of mourning
into, as well as violet and lavender.
but gray has lost its mourning
significance. In England and France
custom sanctions shorter periods OF
deep mourning for all if they choose
to take advantage of the custom. The
upper classes do generally; they soon
tighten their garments of woe with
violet. mauve and purple substitutiOns
and dressy black and white creations
Still mourning is worn in both OF
these countries with the black gar
ments. not of widows, be il under.
stood, but in less impressive mourning
Very deep mourning is worn in thil
country for father mother and chill
dren, and it should last for one year
Circumstances and the individual max,
innovations at times. For brothers ant
sisters it is not obligatory to weal
deer mourning for one year, but foi
six months, after which crepe is ex
changed for crepons. Venetians, cash
meres, mourning silks, etc. For Sum
mer wear black and white grenadines
tissues and white frocks, with blacl
ribbon addition.
For grandparents, aunts and uncle
the period Of wearing black garment
is three months. Creme is not oblifa
tory in these cases. individuals, how
ever, regulate this matter to suit pc
culiar circumstances. but that does nc
detract in any way from the value o
these general rules. which serve a
guide the majority.
The English custom of wearing
band Of crepe OF black cloth on th
sleeve of coat, Jacket OF any outsid
garment worn by man OF woman I
frequently adopted by those who hav
distaste Tor mourning attire but VII
wish to show respect for the farrft
USAGE. while Others ABORT Il on tn
Score Of economy alone, In both sense
ii * a sensible cEston and one tia
we are locking urbn With rreat favo,
Tho men Of a family out IL into brac
tice in greater number than. the v11
rsen, who still cling 10 the nnbjllment
Of crepe. For yoslng ed7N Rad fme4.