Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-07-21

between which and the northern wall Of the
forbidden city lies the imperial flower gar
den, marvellous in its oriental cunning and
landscape gardening.
IA sSs eastern psr4 - ~ 3e.aeAhlted city
are the offices of the cabinet and OF -
imperial treasury. To the north is the Hall
of Intense Thought, where sacrifices are
presented to Cenfucius and other sages.
Nearby stands the Hall Of the Literary
Abyss, or ltbrary-the catalogue of whose
contents Is published from time to time,
forming an admirable synopsis of Chinese
literature North of the imperial palace
than mile and a half around. This con-
tains the King-Shan. an artificial noun
tain composed of coal brought ages ago
from the mines at Ping-Yang to serve in
high and is covered with earth and planted
with shrubs and trees. The top COM
mands a fine view and Is finished with nve
peaks or submits. on one Of which the last
emperor of the Ming dynasty d644). finding
escape from the Manchu invaders tmpos-
sible, is said to have committed suicide.
Views Jealou.ly Guarded.
The western part of the prohibited city
is chiefly occupied by park. and In and
around which are some of the most beauti-
full features Of Pekin, but, Of course, shut
out from all but a very few of the world
An artificial lake, shown on the plan of
the city, more than a mile long and aver
aging furlong in breadth, occupies the
center. 1t Is supplied by the Tung-Hwu1
river, and its waters are adorned by the
splendid lotus. A marble bridge of nine
arches crosses 1t, and its banks are shaded
by trees, beneath which are paved walks.
Artificial hills of rock work and summer
houses on marble bridges in the midst OF
lovely gardens are seen everywhere. All OF
these artificial features are the more re-
markable when the barren sandy nature of
Pekins site are realized.
The next Enclosure surrounding the pro-
hibited city Is the imperial wall. This, built
of brick, rooted with yellow. glazed tiles,
is some twenty-five feet high, and about
six feet in thickness. 1t has four gates.
The walks within the yellow city are wide
and well kept and afford a favorite ride
to the foreigners except during heavy rains,
when they become well-nigh impossible, as
do most of the roads in Pekin, which are
either knee deep in dust in dry weather or
just SO much filthy mud in the wet sea-
sons.
Missionary Scientists.
There is much in the Tartar city OF Pekin
to interest, but more because Of association
than present beauty or grandeur If we ex-
cept the observatory. This observatory,
built by direction of the Emperor Kanghi
is still a marvel today. The instruments
were furnished and constructed by ma
tives under the direction of Riccf and other
Roman Catholic missionaries, who at that
time, despite all difficulties, managed not
only 10 penetrate Tie ielploiC hcliC1i-
cally sealed capital of the middle kingdom.
but to become the advisers and authorities
of the imperial government upon all scien-
tific points. The upper and exposed por-
ton of the building, which still contains
the frameworks of the magnificent instru-
ments originally there, is the principal por-
ton of interest The court yard contains
two planispheres, each supported on cast
bronze dragons of exquisite workmanship.
The instruments on the summit consist OF
a celestial globe. on which are laid down
the principal stars visible in the latitude
of Pekin; various quadrantS and other In
struments for determining attitudes; and
species of transit instruments. which ap-
pears to have been much used. The tele-
scopes. glasses, etc, belonging to these
have long since disappeared, having been
taken by those in charge.
would-Be Geniuses.
To the west Of the observatory Is the ex
animation hall Of the horde of literary can
didates who resort to the state examina-
tons 1t contains an enormous number of
cells-said by the Chinese to be 1OOOO-and
in these at set periods. are gathered the
students of the empire, ranging in age from
twenty-five to sixty. to grind out again and
again the antiquities of Confucius and Men
cius. Today Pekin is filled with unsuccess-
full literary aspirants, men who, failing to
obtain governmental appointment, are too
proud to work. while there are hundreds of
others. lacking themselves the power and
Identification to win them the fruit of their
successful examinations. are ever ready, for
a consideration, to personate some brainless
son of a noble in the examination hall and
to win him the step to honors he cannot
gain himself.
The Tartar city is the serious side of Pc
kin. The Chinese city is the Paris of Pc
kin. and thence flock those in pursuit of
gaiety, dissipation and shopping. 1t is in
the Chinese city that are the hotels, munich
pal buildings, temples. merchants dwell
ings and shops. Here the streets are a
moving mass of varied humanity and ever
changing color. Here are the fakrs, the
noisy Chinese wheelbarrows. the pushing
hustling, crying coolies, the shops and ba-
zaars bright in their red fronts, glittering
ttnsel and attractive in their silks, satins,
curiOs and hundreds of articles peculiar to
the far east. The business streets are gen
orally wide, but crowded with the stands of
peddlers, the carts of vendors and the surg
Ing crowds OF that mixed popuace. Here
1t is are seen the Manchu women proud in
their height. fine physique, unbound feet
and their gorgeous wealth of blue-black
hair, while behind them hobble their sub
ject sisters the Chinese.
Saved by Climate.
Most Of the water drunk in Pekin is either
that caught from the clouds or brought
from lakes well beyond the reach of the
tainted soil of the town, reeking with seep-
ing sewage for centuries. The rare climate
alone of Pekin has saved 1t from many a
dreaded scourge.
AT nightfall all the gates are closed. and
none more securely than the three leading
into the Chinese city from its Tartar neigh
Dor. They are only opened at sunrise the
next morning. Except for the decay of
time, the centuries have done but little to
change Pekin; and European diplomacy
beats well-nigh in vain the rock-like oh
stinacy and conservatism of those orientaIs
Black for Mourning,
From Notes and Queries
Black, the emblem of death, was from