The progressive farmer. [volume] (Winston, N.C.) 1886-1904, 1900-05-08
Horticulture.
GARDEN ENEMIES AND HOW TO DE-
STROY THEN.

recent years the insect enemies of
garden crops have become much
more numerous than formerly, large
ly on account of the ravages of i'm
ported varieties which seem to thrive
in their new environment, and this
makes the knowledge of how to meet
these new enemies absolutely neces-
Sary to success. "The best way to
begin is to give the various garden
crops the best possible chance by
providing good soil, proper plant
food and cultivation that they may
grow up vigorous and better able to
resist destruction from insect pests.
Without these the crop will not be
worth the trouble of preventing at
tack from these destroyers. After
these come watchfuIness and prompt
attention to remedial measures.
There is hardly an insect pest but
can be destroyed with little trouble
if taken when it first puts in an ap-
pearance.
The following gives the principal
pests and the means of destroying
them:
"Cutworms are hard to catch, as
they keep hidden during the day.
Usually they do but little damage if
the garden is plowed very early in
the spring and allowed to freeze and
thaw a few times. A good way to
kill them is to sprinkle Paris green
on slices of potato and lay these
pieces near freshly set-out plants.
"Paris green also kills potato bugs
in a. very short time. Most people
use the mixture too strong Two
ounces to fifty gallons of water is
effectual if the mixture is kept con-
stantIy stirred. Striped cucumber
bugs are about the hardest we have
to deal with. They come in d night
and destroy the vines in a day.
Usually they send a scattering ad-
vance guard, which should be a
warming, for thousands are sure to
follow. Mix pounds Of air-slaked
lime and a quarter of an ounce of
Paris green very thoroughly and
dust the leaves with this while the
dew is on in the morning. Do this
before the bugs come, and repeat Oc-
casionally until danger is past, which
will be the last of June usually, al
though sometimes theycome later. Do
not leave any clods around the hills.
Make the surface smooth, 50 there
will be no hiding place for the bugs,
and sprinkle the mixture on the
ground pretty freely. SCOT from the
chimney where wood is used is good,
and we have driven them away with
road dust sprinkled freely on the
leaves, as they seem not to like grit.
Be sure to get the remedy, whatever
is used, on the under side of the
leaves, as there is where they feed.
squash bOrers are becoming
worse every year, seemingly, and in
some sections they have made it al
most impossible to grow squashes.
They work in the vines, beginning at
the roots. The eggs are laid early
in the season on the stems just where
they come from the ground and the
borer matches and works inside. The
lime and Paris green will be a good
thing TO use early in the season, and
as the vines begin to grow hoe the
soil over the crown where the vines
come from the ground. AS the
vines make growth cover every sec
ond Joint with soil to the depth of
two inches and roots will strike into
the soil almost at once, adding vigOr
to the vine, even keeping it growing
when the borers succeed in getting
into it. IF the vines begin to droOp,
split open with sharp, thin knife
and find the borer and kill it. Then
cover with soil and it will usually re-
vive and grow without injury.
Cabbage worms are certain to be
with us, but they are SO easily de-
stroyed that they should not create
much alarm. Take common Persian
insect powder, being sure to get that
which is fresh, and put it into a com
mon powder gun, or in the absence
of that, a pepper box with a per
forated top, and early in the morn
ing sprinkle a little Of the powder
over the inside of the leaves on the
worms that are at work. In five
minutes every worm that is touched
will be dead, and few such treat
ments are all that is necessary in a
season. The insect powder is not
poisonous to anything but insects
and may be used with safety"