davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-03-24

! GENESIS OF THE LACES /
9 WHICH ARE
! TICKLE FASHIONS LATEST FANCY


piece Of old point de yenise or point
de milan being almost priceless. Point
lace Ia very often not pointed at all, and
good many people wonder why II is
so called. Point" simply signifies
stitch.
With the French revolution lacemak-
Ing IN France became almost a lost art,
for the patronage Of the aristoeraoy
was almost indispensable. Napoleon
tried. though UNNECESSARILY to revive
the Industry.
Some Of the best known styles OF lace
are the point dalencon stlll made at
Alencon. or by workers who use It's
methods and the point de yenlse, which
Is stlll made, thanks to the Interest
which Queen Margherlta has taken In
encouraging Italian lacemaklng, which
FOR time seemed almost lost art. The
raised venetian point, one OF the Oldest
specimens Of italian Workmanship, Is
especially valuable. FOR Il IL more likely
10 be genuine old point than the lighter
specimens. This Is due 10 the fact that
earlier faces were made to stand a
garments. as when women adopted the
wearing of lace and men discarded II
the fabric was made lighter and dain-
tier.
Lace Is made In two ways-needle
point and pillow lace. The needle point
is made with needle stitches which
unite pattern outlined In thread
upon a piece Of parchment or paper.
The pillow lace Is woven on a frame on
which are upright pins outlining the de-
sign. Bobbins Instead OF needles are
used Old lace is made Of fine linen
threads, but most modern limitations are
Of cotton. which dlscolors and rots very
soon. silk thread Is also sometimes
used
Some very fine specimens Of modern
lace are now made in Ireland, where the
Countess Of Aberdeen is doing her best
TO foster the industry. The Irish peas
ant women learned the art from char
table nuns In the Irish converts, who
saw In the manufacture a source OF
livelihood for the poor women during
the terrible famine periods when there
was no work to do in the fields. The
peasants often walk 20 miles for the
opportunity TO make bit Of lace which
when completed will only bring them a
couple OF shlllings Tor weeks work.
Irish lace dealers often amass great
fortunes IN a few years as result Of
the enormous profits they make upon
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-03-24

/ Upon almost every variety OF garment
is seen the herrlngbone stitch single or
double AT one time Ii defines the width
OF cloth bands on the bottom Of the
Skin, and threads It's way IN ornate
fashion over bodice; at another lines
Of The delicate tracery about an inch
apart decorate dainty null shirt waists
which have soft, lace trimmed stocks
and cuffs Such kinds are made entlre-
~ by hand, no machine stitching being
permitted 10 mar their beauty. in the
shops handmade shirt waists Of the
simplest character are very expensive,
but any def needlewoman at the most
trlhlng cost eau duplicate the designs
shown and not expend q great deal OF
time upon the undertaking. as the par
ticular stitch in vogue, the herringbone.
goes of very quickly.
An ingenious friend Of mine has just
finished three sweetly simple washable
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-03-24

the inner cord was replaced by horse.
hair. once, when Louis XIV was hav-
Ing a collar made and the lace men
could find no horsehalr fine enough
for the work, they substituted hairs
from their own devoted heads.
Brussels lace, which is much used
for wedding gowns, Is one OF the Flem-
lsh makes II Is much priced, but IS
fatter and less durable than point
dalencon.
Honiton, which is a gulpure, Is the
only English made lace, Honiton Is a
small Deyonshire village In which the
Industry developed. Point d'angleterre
Is not English lace. but Flemish. II
was originally smuggled into the coun-
try and represented to be Of English
make TO escape a heavy duty.
Valencennes Ia one Of the pillow larss
and Is a development Of tho schools es-
tablshed by Colbert. II Is made in
the village Of Valenoiennes. France, but
was not given a distinct name until the
eighteenth century, II is fat. with
many sklllfully woven floral devices.
Chantllly, mechlln, valenclennes and
most Of the other pillow laces are Of
comparatively modern popularity.
ALICE DE BERDT.
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-03-24
REMARKABLE WOMEN.

There are two unique women in the
British royal househod-the last place
in the world where one would look for
any sympathy with the new woman
hood. In the lord chomberlaln's de-
partment the position OF chimney
sweeper Is held by woman. and a wo-
man also holds the Office Of statuary
mason. The church. too, has given the
onward movement its sanction for We
find that woman In the Winchester
diocese has acquitted herself with great
credit as a bellrlnger The year before
last a woman was elected as repre-
sentative OF convooation on the court Of
governors Of Victoria university Man
chester, England, the first instance on
record Of woman holding such a post
in that country.
England has a lady master mariner
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-03-24
FULL DRESS FOR LITTLE FOLKS.

both bodice and skirt are trimmed with
bands Of lace threaded with velvet
ribbon. finishing in rosette top and
bottom. The lower part Of the skirt Is
trimmed with lace.
Gray is to be the fashionable color
for small folks. Gray dresses always
look smart az this time Of the year,
and, provided the shade selected is not
very light. viii not soil readily. Some
pretty little dresses may be composed
OF gray beige a round gathered skirt
tucked at equal distances up 10 the
knees makes a pretty accompaniment
10 a round bodice which Is similarly
tucked When q touch Of color Is need
cd, Il may be introduced in the form u
circular shoulder collar or wee revers
and vest at the throat Many somber
looking dresses are quite altered in as
pect by the addition Of these vests or
collars. which may be Of either silk or
velvet
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-03-24

and strength In trying 90 better the
condition Of employees OF trolley COM
panleS She Is a practical motoneer
and is now deylslng an electrical con-
triyanoe for keeping the motormans
feet warm
Lady Henry Somerset said recently
that she gained her first Impulse toward
phllanthrOplc work from reading John
Stuart Mills works during her glrlhood.
Frau Louise Froebel. widow OF Frie-
drioh Froebel, the organizer OF the kin
dergarten system, died recently near
Hamburg al the age Of IS years she
had survived her husband ~ years,
Miss Hattie Bumgartsn OF New MIL
ford, Conn, has a novel plan for re-
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-03-24

ton Of her estates in Abergele North
Wales. into a seaside resort Conse-
quently the countess ihwarted their
plans by employing woodcutters, who
felled the whole avenue Of magnificent
trees that had stood for centuries. She
is now spending the winter with her
daughter on the Riviera.
The empress Of China has a weakness
for diamonds and wears them In spite
OF the Chinese law forbldding women 10
wear Jewels.
Mrs. George L. Baker Of New York
has made practical mechanics a study
and understands the construction OF an
electric car. Though woman Of wealth
and influence, she is deyoting her time
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-03-24

| the peasants work The Princess Of
Wales and the queen Of England have
tried 10 encourage the Irish industry
by wearing great deal OF the lace.
Irish lace Is imported into this country
In great quantities.
Gulpure lace. that which Is 50 much
worn at present, is Of no particular
school, Tie guipure was originally sim
ply a lace made with gimp outlining
the pattern. From this fact many
heavily outlined laces are now called
guipure which really are not. Some Of
these limitations consist Of embrolderies
Of heavy thread in large spreading pat
terms. The lace has an inner core Of
thread whipped with finer thread To
give elasticity to the designs very often
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-03-24

soldiers who have already served as
officers, noncommissloned officers or
prlvates to serve once more as reserve
in the place and during the absence Of
those who are nobly resisting the inya-
sion OF her South African possessions.
Mrs. Esther shafer an experienced
trained nurse. has accompanied Mrs
Frederick ID. Grant TO Russia. Mrs
Grants daughter, Princess Cantacu-
zene, Is suffering from an attack Of ty-
phoId fever and requires the shllful
care Of an American trained nurse.
In Germany there Is National So
ciety For the Improvement OF womens
Clothing, with LEGAL auxllIaries in all
the large cities All the 1000 members
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-03-24

sea, she gave permanency to the beau
tiful souvenir by copying it with her
needle
After Catherine de- Medicl came the
lace loving Marie de Medici and Anne
OF Austria; then Louis XIV, king in
rufiies. II was his prime minister Col
bert, who induced a number Of Italian
and Flemish lacemakers 70 come to
France and establish themselves there
for the purpose Of teaching their art.
They settled IN several different towns,
but the lacemakers Of Aleneon soon
achieved pre-eminenee, and TO this
day It is point dalencon that is most
priced and beautiful OF the Italian
lacemakers those OF Venice and those
Ok Milan were the most celebrated, a
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-03-24
IN URING the past season nearly all
| the fashionable hats and gowns

AOllNG lne past season nearly All
the fashionable hats and gowns
~ were IN some way ornamented
with lace. and one hears a great deal
about the dainty feminine touches I'M
parted 20 costume by bit Of the
delicate woblike material knotted here
or jabbed there, the critic looking i'm
mensely wise and self satisfied going
on his way rejoicing az having made 80
apropos a remark.
The fact is that lace was an article
for the adornment Of masculine dress
In the long ago days when masculine
vanity blossomed out in founced dou-
blets and feathered hats instead Of In
coats OF eccentric cut and collars Of
wonderful build. Gentlemen Of the time
Of Henry III Of France were the FIRST
70 extensively use lace In trimming
their garments. II was not like that to
which we are accustomed now, but OF
much cruder quality Catherine de-
Medlci the mother Of Henry III,
brought a great quantity Of the laces
Of Italy, then the great lacemakng
country Of the world, and made them
fashionable at her court To supply the
demand which her patronage had ere
ated in the sycophantic court Of France
she induced a famous italian lacemak-
en- Ninciolo, TO come TO Paris and es-
tablish himself as a manufacturer Of
the huge runs Of which queen Cath
crime was the originator Ninclolo COLI
lected and published a book Of his pat
terms and dedicated II to the queen.
All the ladies Of her court seem 70 have
learned laoemaklng, for Il was one Of
the favorlte employments Of the maids
OF honor. Catherine, with guileful diplo-
macy. probably reasoning that when
they were thus engaged they would not
be occupied in more reprehensble d.
versions, such as flirting with the king
or the young princes or spying for for
eign powers, all these being not unusu-
al with young court ladies' OF the time.
SO Catherine set them all 10 making
laces for her under the direction OF the
gifted Vinciolo. Most Of this work con-
sisted OF squares Of fine embroidered
net for in those days the best lace was
little more than that,
A legend accounts for the origin Of
Italian needle point lace. II is related
that a Venetian peasant girl was pre-
scented by her fisherman lover with a
specimen OF petrlhed seaweed that he'd
become entangled In his net and that
shortly after the lover being lost at
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-03-24

friepAs "You don't seem to have
~ on,, the least Idea how to-
- de,elop-a-negatise."
10 the park to take winter scenery pic
lures, will your he asked bravely.
Even II you won't marry me, you can
let me have some interest In life. l
promise you ! will behave as If ! had
never asked you"
He said this twice over because she
seemed so dlspleased with him,
Il don't think It's worth while to take
tie pictures" she returned Grossly. Il
don't think you know enough about
photography; we should only waste
time
Berts feelings were hurt. He ae-
knowledged that he didn't know much
about girls. but he said he could take
pictures with anybody. Then she drop
ped her head and spoke in quite anoth-
er tone. Il don't think you know much
about Il. she repeated; you don't seem
TO have the least idea how to--deyelop-
a--negatiye."
She put IN a meaning pause FOR each
OF the dashes and hid her face, but even
then Bert had TO repeat her words and
weigh them before he caught her mean
ing.
But" said Bert IN conclusion, Il did
develop that one all right In the end"
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-03-24

forming saloons. The scheme Is 10 have
the best citizens freQuen, the saloons
not 90 drink but 90 form a social SUI
rounding Of @ high order
Miss Amala kussner the world re-
nownel painter % miniature portraits,
is now painting Mrs. George Gould and
her baby IN New York after which she
win return 10 England 10 receive addl-
tloual laurels 10 her wreath Of success
Is IN her unrlvaled line q work.
For tailor made gowns venetian cloth
viii be much worn. The cheviots. In
llght colorlng. are so attractive that
they are tempting even the conservative
woman. They show blended shades OF
vatican blue. cream color and wood.
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-03-24
MRS. ROWLAND'S HEALTH HINTS FOR CHILDREN.

10 be dressed very warmly and should
not go out before II o'clock or remain
out after o'clock These are the
hours that the sun Is at It's strongest.
and during this time the bedding
should be placed out TO air
The sitting room should be kept at
a temperature Of 65 or 20 degrees In
cold weather, for child accustomed
10 go out Is not so sensitive as one
kept In the house.
II Is not necessary 70 advise that
the baby be not taken out in wet or
damp weather and that Il should not
be allowed 10 sit about in the park
when out Tor Us airing All the time
1t Is but II must he encouraged 70 run
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-03-24

sion Of a crash suit so trimmed and
welcome II as a decidedly unique ad-
dition to their seaside outtits-whlch
topic before a great while viii be abb
soTblng.
Nearly all Bingham dresses ere pro-
vlded with muslin sashes. and with ev-
cry elaborate costume without excep-
ton is worn either a ribbon, velvet or
mousseline sash.
The melon pun k much in evidence.
Sometimes entire skirts are composed
Of series running horizontally. On
broadcloth jackets the cut out trim
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-03-24

frocks for her S-year-old daughter.
Like many others. she has adopted an
especial style Of dress for the little one,
and AL her everyday dresses arc cut by
the same pattern. The ones OF which |
speak are the regulation sailor costume
Of straight gathered skirt and full
blouse, with huge MILDLY collar than
which there Is nothing prettier for the
slender girlles Of the day. One Is made
Of turkey red calico, machine stitched
in coarse black silk and decoratiyely
outlined in herring bone stitches Of
heavy black floss. a shield Of black
silk with a double Of the same shows
two rows Of fancy stitching done In
red, Polka dot percale. indigo blue in
color was selected for another and
submitted to similar treatment sub
stituting coarse cotton lace for the
shield and collar. The third demon
strated originality, and IS Of fine
grade Of plain white crash toweling.
beautifully trimmed in Punjab silk
handkerchlefs. My friend has present.
va Huii0 NitNtA iItds III Nit tyHHNi uNAlol
Of the crash suit. She has made skirt,
blouse, collar and shield OF crash. Half
Of a handkerchief square ties in a sail
or knot under the big collar, and the
other half girdles the waist, tying IN
similar manner, A second square has
been cut into strips three inches wide,
lined with crisp muslin and made into
an adjustable band to border the skirt.
This IS held In place BY means Of long,
invisible stitches, and on wash days Ia
conveniently ripped off while the little
frock visits the laundry.
The beauty and originality Of this
would do credit 10 some farfamed Pa
rislenne. II strikes me, as | write that
big girls would rejoice in the posses
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-03-24

y, made suits which, like those OF their
.'usis' nave lost much Of mannishness
80 nave been made 10 border on the
frivolous by the introduction OF lace re-
ss's OF hufy and dainty blouses, and
o'vhIimes both. Elton Jackets with
, avn belts are a novel idea for abolish
ias .he severity Of coat and skirt suits.
ao'sfos 90 with the banded bodlces in
~noea Tor more pretentlous wear. II
ess'eloped in cloth. the bolero Is gener-
10y 49,. IKE IN Kind, though a strong dispo-
S ,uoh 10 economize is suggested In the
s saek panne velvet bolero. which may
~ worn with a number Of frocks, II liz
,.'y lined with white satin, and to
''aeVe the somber appearance for the
vuns may be powdered in duh steel
'v.hsles or lridescent beads.
a. "seuieNork plays a conspicuous part
" he construction OF children's clothes.
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-03-24

A MEM. ron .MorHER.o
New York.

Children are often worried because
their mothers are too attentive and
continually reprove their small ones
without reason.
a child should be left alone ana be
allowed TO play or amuse itself in its
own way without the constant direction
Of a nervous mother.
A boy. for example enjoys more a
few simple toys and something which
his own ingenuity has worked out than
the most elaborate plaything which has
been bought.
In the same way the little girl will
lavish her affections on a misshapen
doll, probably made at home, while the
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-03-24

gown, and as these highly decorated
stockings are far from cheap the wis
dom Of the fashion for people Of mod
crate means Is somewhat doubtful. II
Is fact that stockings Of the palmer
qualities are lower in price than ever
before. and the changing fashion causes
frequent bargain sales at which foot
wear Of the best quality, but out OF
date In design. may often be bought for
"a song
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-03-24

IN the person Of the dowager Lady elf.
ford, widow Of the late gentleman ush'
er Of the black rod, who is entitled to
dispense with the services Of a captain
on her 800 ton yacht which she sails in
the Mediterranean. An effort was
made by Lady Ernestine Brudenell'
Bruce TO obtain a masters certificate
but the board OF trade declined TO
grant It, aud Lady Clifford is still
unique
In Tasmania lady (spinste) is Civ.
en- the power to celebrate marriages.
London has a lady architect In Miss
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-03-24
IN THE REALM OF WOMAN.

Ais. Esoert and Miss Simpson OF Chi
rs sg nave been employed by a bache-
T.. H., cub to edit magazine solely in
,. .ns Daughters Of the confederacy
T, ,s succeeded in making June 3, the
~ p.',aaay Of jefferson Davis, a holiday
10 :, ,he state Of Virginia.
The a = ss'd Of Mrs Joubert that during
en- 10y wars with natives she was an
the IN 20 making bullets for the use Of
hsh.r Roberts, wife OF General Lord
' Knows something Of the sor-
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-03-24
DEVELOPING A NEGATIVE.

Bert Is So happy over it that he has
told Il. which, Of course. he should not
have done, though, as he said, 1t is
worth telling. He had said 10 himself
that II she refused him he should take
It like a man and not make a fuss or
act like a fool SO, when she said she
was so surprised, that she had never
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-03-24

rows OF war. Her only son lies In a
soldiers grave at colenso. Natal. Her
husband, who is at the front actively
engaged In directing affairs, is g. years
old. Lord and Lady Roberts have been
married q years.
Mrs. David Jayne Hin. the wife OF the
first assistant secretary Of state, is
one Of the most genial Of hostesses In
Washington and cntertains the officials
and dlguitarles In splendid style.
Queen Victoria has Instituted a new
order. designated as the Royal reserve
battalion. to serve FOR home defense for
one year. she has called upon her old
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-03-24

about and exercise. Otherwise II IS
likely 10 take cold. and then the first
thing the parents know the child has
the measles or scarlet fever.
The child should not be allowed 10
stay out more than one hour and a
half al time In winter and ought 10
be taught TO exercise 10 the best adj
vantage.
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-03-24

It's glory. stock
ings Of silk fine
enough TO be
passed through
a ring are cover
ed with embroid-
cred flo W ers
outlined In all
the colors OF the
rainbow. Even
persons of
avowed simple
ity wearers OF
black hosiery at
all times and in
all seasons, now
End II difficult
TO secure a pair
OF plain black
stockings. The
hose Is starred
or Powered or
dotted with silk
embro ideries,
but is seldom
perfectly plain.
a lace insertion
being the least
ornamental ef-
feet that one
may hope for in
evening stock
lngs. II Is the
fashion still to
make ones no.
siery match the
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-03-24

Miss Edith Rhodes, one OF the sisters
OF Cecil Rhodes, has superior and lar
ger diamonds. It is said, than members
OF royalty. These were given to her by
her brother and taken from the famous
Wesselton mine az Kimberley,
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-03-24

most artistic production OF the toyshop
will lie in state, to be taken up on rare
occasions.
Keep children we'll clothe them sensl-
bly,, let them understand they are to
amuse themselves and don't fuss"
them.
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-03-24

meant toencour'
age him, that
she could not
think Of H. and
that she liked
him very much,
but really not
that way he
took his mo
without a stag
ger. He even
said he would
not bother her,
and that he
hoped tn e y
might remain
friends
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-03-24

II is becoming fashionable for the
bride. instead Of the bridegroom. TO
make presents 10 the bridesmaids.
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-03-24

\ n ChlLDS nannetS Shoulu De
~ changed twice week and
4 thoroughly aired before they
are put on, for little folks are subject
to rheumatism, cold and cramps. The
airing Of musllns and aannels is one
! Of the precautions for warding Of
these attacks.
Clean, fresh bedding should be reg
ularly put on the bed and hung out
to air every day, while the sleeping
room should be opened on the coolest
day Of the year TO let in fresh air.
on very cold days, Of course, the
child must not be taken out-that Is,
In stormy weather 1t ought always
a q. a. A a. a a a. a. e
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-03-24
cAyLY EMBROIDERED STOCKINGS.

Seldom have fashionable feet been so
ornately shod as this season. The no
slery Of the present Is marvellous IN
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-03-24

"You don't seem TO have
the least idea how to-