Evening star., 1900-01-20
Pretty Neck Fixings in Vogue at the
Moment.
FOR EVERY DAY AND DRESS UP WEAR
Useful Hints in Making and Wear
ing Them.
ON Z w NJ A Ms NEED S


| NEW YORK, January 49, 1900.
When the daughter of millionaire whom
| nature has endowed with that type of
| beauty so often denied to princesses can
| wear, as I saw the particular possessor
| of wealth and beauty that 1 have in mind
| wear with modest pride the other day,
| white tulle stock which she has constructed
| herself. it behooves women upon whom
| the fates have not bestowed at birth at
! least two of the four desirable gifts in
| their power to look carefully into the mat
! ter of stocks. Why should they be So very
| expensive when bought ready-made and
| are they then most desirable?
| If We can answer the second question in
| the negative the reply to the first will be
OF little moment to us, and perhaps deal
| ers will begin to scale off some of the 2oo
| per cent profit now made all articles of
| neckwear Except linen collars} sold to
| women. Very little consideration of the
| subject will show that stock made at
| home by clever fingers has about it a
| grace that the same article seen in the
| shops can never approach. To make ordi-
| nary stocks is not at all difficult, for
| shaped stifening comes in several forms
| which fit the neck exceedingly well and
| can be had in different heights. One collar
| lining is a sort of braided canvas, which is
| sold by the yard, and from which the de-
| sired lengths are cut. As the saleswoman
| to fit the neck. leaving only enough to lap
| over for the hook and eye. In a few shops
one can get collar lining made of light
| canvas lined with cambric of not very
| superior quality. but good enough for a
| pershabe stock This is bought in the
| different sizes just as one buys linen col
lars, and it, too, is too large. So if you
Wear Il collar buy a 1872 in this canvas
| The canvas lining is perforated at inter-
! walls so that the covering may be easily
sewed on.
| Becoming and Neat.
! Some of the neatest looking ribbon stocks.
| which have simply a band of ribbon about
| the neck with linen. or lace points over it,
| and bow with short loops and long ends
| are made on these Innings. for the muslin
| saves the necessity of covering both the in
| side and outside of the stiffening When it
| comes to the more elaborate stocks of silk,
| velvet or other rich material, it is better
| to the lining which comes by the yard,
| AS handsome material must have Il suitable
| lining if one has things in keeping.
| The form of ribbon stock described above
| has to have for the neck piece of ribbon
| slightly wider than the sti1tcnlng 1t is to
| cover, account of the bias cut of The
stiffening there will be trouble in covering
| the corners at either top or bottom, which
| ever way the ribbon runs off, with piecinS.
| The little bits of hemstitched linen or lace
| and muslin which decorate the tops of all
| silk ribbon collars easily made at
| home, and one needs many of them this
| IS economical. A straight band about an
| inch deep is made and they are put into the
top of it. Some of them are simply sharp
| little corners which appear en- each side of
| the collar or pieces of lawn, hemstltched or
| trimmed with lace about three inches long:
| Other women prefer q little narrow banu Oh
| white which goes nearly around the collar,
| leaving only about an inch or so of the col
| lar behind undecorated. They can be made
| out of any dainty scraps of trimming which
| happen to be left Embroidered or lace
| handkerchief corners which are wearing IN
| the center are favorite materials when tney
| are made at home.
| Shirt Waist Finish.
| The ribbon finish for shirt waist Is much
| preferred this winter to a plain linen collar,
| and beside the stock with either long ehds
| and short loops the still better liked
| bow, which. s not bow at all tonly two
! ends of ribbon fastened in the center by a
| knot of ribbon, or sometimes by tiny
! buckle or gay pin), there is the knack OF
! using all the ribbons one has saved, washed
| and restored to pristine freshness. A Sc
| verely plain ribbon stock is most attractive,
| and easy enough to do when once the knack
| is caught. In the first place, have your RID
| bon, which must be a little longer than
| twice around your neck Then put on a
linen collar, fastening it to the back of the
| shirt waist by a collar button, just as II you
| were going to it alone. But do not
| fasten it to the shirt waist in front. Then
| take the ribbon, and if it is a little too wide
fold it until it is exactly the width Of the
| linen collar Bring 1t around the collar,
| crossing in the back and folding it neatly
| at the crossing so that ii is smooth. When
| the two ends are brought to the front the
| one held in the left hand should be shorter
| and under the one in the right hand. Then
| both ends must be tucked under the linen
| collar, and ribbon and collar must be PIN
ned to the dress at the tucking places with
scarf pins or little fancy pins. The smooth
ness of this ribbon collar all depends upon
the folding of the ribbon where 1t is crossed
and where it is tapered down to go under
the linen collar. 1t may be little TEDIOUS
| TO arrange from a printed description but
once you have tried 1t you will like 1t bet
ter than any other neck arrangement for
elaborate about it. The object Of not fast
enng the linen collar in front to the shirt
waist is to keep it .pliable, SO that 1t will be
whatever size is needed and the stock will
| not look clumsy.
| Dainty laundering.
If one is an adept at washing ribbons and
ironing them or drying them stiffly on glass
SO that they will not have the life ironed
out of them this method of dressing the
| neck means an endless stock Of fancy col
lars. People who wash ribbons successfully
are on the increase, having abandoned
naphtha and taken to pure soap and luke
warm water.
Many of the stocks have "ears," and one
can get patterns to make them with these
little protuberanceS running up toward the
hair. l have not yet seen pattern which
htted snugly about the throat and stu gave
the ears, so l prefer good bias collar with
the ears made out of stiffening and sewed
to the collar. But this is matter of taste,
and II one can only get the snug collar pat
tern with the points attached it is much the
simpler way.
| Should Fit SnugIy.
The French stocks are not lined with stiff
| fleming, but have one or more short bones to
| hold them in place This is very comforta-
BILE, but it is not particularly TRIM 1t makes
one think of French tailor-made gown
which is always a little fussy. Stocks may
have a soft effect but If they are high they
should fit closely in spite of the threatened
ruin to the skin of the neck, and they
should stay in place.
There Is fancy just now for stocks with
no ends at all, at least none falling down.
In the illustration there are two stocks
which have ends, but no bows. and these
ends are short and stand out on either side