The Republican. [volume] (Oakland, Md.) 1877-current, 1900-05-24
ON THE ROAD TO TOLEDO.
Railway Travel in the Land of
r1anana.
MIGRATION OF THE MERINOS.
The Imperial City Which Spanish Histor-
ians Describe as ''The Crown of
Spain and the Light of
the World"

Toledo, Spain, April 12.-lt is a
tedious journey from Merida to the
ong-extinguished Light of the
World" with little to recommend it
of scenic beauty and nothing of com
fort. You may choose between two
routes-one following the Guadiana
river most of the way, the other the
Tages, 9th necessitating III any
changes of cars. Our party decided
upon the much shorter route of the
Guadiana, though half of it retraced
our steps over the monotonous plains
so lately trayersed. The pleasant
English family with whom we joined
forces at Cadiz for the tour of Spain
preferred the roundabout route to
Toledo, via Badajoz and Caceres, as
it laid through unvisited territory.
The parting arrangement was that
we, who expected to arrive at least a
day in advance of the others, should
secure quarters for all in the Fonda
Imperiali'-said to be the best hotel
in Toledo-and have apartments wait
ing for our belated friends. When we
finally reached the ultimathule, some
seventy hours later-bedraggled and
worn from sitting bolt upright for
two long nights in the uncomfortable
day cars-we were met at the station
by the English party fresh and trim
after nights rest in the hotel, they
having arrived on the previous after
noonl Howe er, this experience does
not establish rule to go by, for 1.-The
longest way around is by no means
always 1.-The surestn in this land of
Manana.
Most of the Spanish railways were
built by French capital, at enormous
cost; and all who have suffered from
them will agree that they are about
the worst constructed and misman-
aged railways on the face of the earth.
They appear to be run solely for the
amusement of the employees, tarrying
long in unexpected places for no dis
eoverable reason and paying not the
slightest heed to making connections.
And the most aggravating thing to
the foreigner is that nobody cares the
least bit for his troubles. Native pas
sengers, never having known any
better service, take the unnecessary
delays quite as a matter of course
and utterly fail to comprehend why
over so trifling an incident as missing
the through train-thereby having
to sit up another night in the COM
mon coach-merely because the train
waited couple of hours at a cross
roads junction for some powerful Hi
dalgo's wife to get her children ready
for ride to the next town.
But even the creeping pace of ten
miles an hour-the average speed of
these trains, if one may so misuse a
words better than the old way of
donkey back transit in crossing such
dreary regions as the plains of CASTLE
and La Mancha; and in pleasanter
parts of the country the traveller
blesses the slowness which enables
him to enjoy the prospect longer. The
rate of progress is usually restricted
by law, on account of the danger in
Cured by the spreading of rails ex-
posed to the full heat of the sun on
sandy plains; but though the law
vigorously discourages speed, it has
nothing to say in regard to keeping
up with schedule time and fulfilling
contracts with ticket buyers. Fifty
years ago there were only twenty Kill
ometres of railways in the whole
country. Now about 5000 kilometres
are in operation, and half as many
more under concession. The best
stations are extremely poor, and the
tilthiness of every place to which rail
way servants and Spanish passengers
of every class have access, is notorious
Most trains have one better and some
what cleaner coach, labelled "Reseva-
do para Senoras' for ladies.
Another singular feature is a small,
square closet-carriage attached to
some trains, containing two tiny COM
partments set side by side, marked,
Para Senors'' and para Senoras. -
All the railway officials, from guards
to brakemen, ride first class often
occupying half the available space in
the carriage and always the best seats,
whatever may become Of the poor
passengers who have paid extortion-
ate charges, packed like sardines in a
box.
And then the eternal trouble with
luggage would cause an Archangel to
mislay his temper. Indeed, the least
you carry about of either commodity,
or temper, on journey through
Spain, the better for your pleasure.