The age-herald., 1900-07-22

their entire time and labor to tre repro duction of elegant fabrics Uueless, now, the modiste's art, idle the embroidery needle, for the goods can be purchased by the yard for less cost than single hand width could be worked: and the whole is immeasureably more elegant and chic.
 The painted muslins, the embroidered chiffons, and the metal appliques are the substitutes in goods that are shown by the yard.
 One instance of this will show the extent to which the art of manufacture has been brought. Into the very center of piece of pearl-grey cashmere was woven lace figure The figure was repeated at inter- vals of a few inches. making an exceed ingly rich goods By this art the necessity for applique with the cut-out work under meath was entirely obviated, and the re- suit was even better.
 CHEAP SUBSTITUTES.
 But these goods are unfortunately expen- sive. Instead of being for the wanting many, they are for the fortunate few. From $2 to $5 per yard they run, and no one can accuse a $5 fabric, nor a g one for that matter, as being cheap. when applied to the making of summer gown. with its perish ableness and it's short life As the season advances, the gown fades in color; it's ma terial becomes inappropriate its weight in- adequate, and with the first knell of Sep tember 1t is dead-dead the leaves upon the trees.
 With winter gown it is different: and a dress well selected as to color and material can be carried through several seasons without becoming antique.
 It Is on account of the short life of the new summer fabrics, and their expense, that the modistes have devised clever little ways of initiating the more costly ma- terials. The silk muslins, for example, which come inlaid with punches and sprays of flowers. are nicely simulated at home by sewing silk sprays over a plain silky surface, whether it be real silk muslin or its cheaper limitations. To avoid much needlework these sprays need not be placed close together but can be set some inches apart, not more than two being needed for the back of bodice and only four for the shirred front. The skirt can have a spray appliqued here and there at irregular in- tervals
 The most elegant piques come with large polka dots embroidered in silk. The dots are of different sizes and of various colors. Pique of this description is expensive. but, If the dots are embroidered by hand, the work is not nearly so dear nor is it as diff fcult Even satin applique, that most ex- pensive of all fabrics, can be initiated.
 The real satin applique consists of satin design brought out upon a white back ground. Stripes and flowers are used. But an Imitation satin antique can be made by @ppliquing satin stripes upon a plain taf- feta background and by appliquing satin fowers-which have been cut out of old bits of material-to the white ground.
 It Is a lot of work, grant you, but the gowns of today are by no means plain ones, and, to be in the fashion, you must go to all the fuss of Dame Fashions fancies.
 NEW GOWNS.
 Yet the great makers of the fashions will tell you that the gowns of today, with all their elegance do not approach those of other days in point of actual handiwork. 'Take the embroidered dresses of ten years ago, and they were more work" they will tell you; Tor select those of the days when the tiniest cut beads were attached to the gown at intervals too small to admit the touching of the tip of the finger to the goods or yet the days when ruffles were the rage, and when founced skirt was a