The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1900-09-30
FELIX FOURNER1 says TAR-
LIER is A FEATURE OF
LATEST SKIRTS
LATEST IN SHOULDER puFFs
Fur Trimmings ON, Motish Toi,ets-
Attractive Costumes for Young
Ladies--Cryrfor Loose
Upper Arms. W

! Special Correspondence Of the Globe.
PARIS, Sept. T.7-H, the modern sheath
skirts show any trimmings at all, it must
be in front, thus tabliers are a well
come form of trimming the latest
Paquin models particularly favor them.
They admit Of great variety of form
and eoloring and material, and gener-
ally simulate an aunderslirt, the front
gore of whichsis disclosed by an incision
in the over drapery.s One charming model
Illustrated a modish arrangement of the
| tabier decoration: It has foundation
skirt OF light brown taneta made very
ught below the waist line and has the
conventional flare augmented by a deep
pleating OF the same silk The front
| gore is covered with guipure lace thiekly
embroidered with gold thread for the
gold note must not be excluded from the
fashionable toilet, and is particularly In
evidence in this Instance. The oyerskirt
is Of light brown cloth of the same shade
as the silk, and is cutzin bell shape with
seam down the center Of the back, and
follows closely the contour Of the figure,
while haring considerably below the
knees. In front the overslkirt opens with
narrow aperture of graceful lines con-
structed with view to adding to the
length and narrowness of the figure, and
showing the guipure tablierAundernea
A novelty is represented in the cross
straps Of the same cloth, which fasten
over the tablier with buttons of fill
gree gold.
The bodice harnonizes with the skirt |
1t also has tight lining of brown silk |
At the back THE brown. cloth is stretched |
Wltnout seam and is edecora ted with |
several tiny tucks which run diagonally, |
meeting atat the eFnten of the back in a
series OF VS.. Oyer the shoulders the
cloth is likewise gathered into small |
Iucks, which are released over the bust, |
forming a blouse-like fulmess on either
side Of the guipure vest and buttoning
over It with the same crisS-cross straps
that decorated the Skirt. A graceful fea-
ture IS the chic little jabot drapery OF
| and forming an appropriate finish The
| pointed yoke collaraconsists of an upper
part OF brown cloth and an under piece
| OF guipure mounted on brown silk ana
| Is surmounted- bysf the high stock collar
| OF sflk-lined guipure cut with point in
| 'front.' fhere Is no getting away from
I tne undersleeyes in these days Of tight
sIeeyes when the scarcity of cloth is made
up by the elabofatenesS of trimming.
The sleeB of cur model is of the most
sgslJ fo ,e being tight but hafXqg
| gathered into the armhole and allowing
| freedom of notion AT the wrist Is the
inevitable undersleeve of tan mousseline
de soie,. with it's tightly buttoned mar
row Wrtstband of the same fabric. A
wide band of gold-embroidered guipure
| over brown silk forms the cuff, the two
gold sfHgrec buttons.
"A large picture hat of tan felt COM
pletes The costume, and Is deliberately
trimmed with long amazon plumes and
chou Of brown velvet held With a large
| square buckle. Jef
Some, rather progressive toilets indi-
n q "a hot fTIrac1 NTH
used as, a trimming on rich costumes
and is Combined rather anonymously
with diaphAFpus7 fabriess- An attractive
dark gray lsatin-faeed CLOTH and the
plainness Of the tight-ftting bell skirt
las relieved by heavy rolls of black Per-
lines. similagsl roll Of fur bands the
| skirt at the hem and another edges the
tiny boleros which rextends below a deep
yoke of Shirred silver gray mousseline
de sole. The cloth sleeves have Shout
/ der puffs OF the same mousseline de
sole finished with a roll of fur and
/ the wfde-shaped7 stock collar consists of
a rich embroidery done with, silver thread,
silver beads and turquoises.
The sleeve form seems, to be. in a state
of vacillation. There is cry for looser
upper arms, which lately has resulted in
shoulder puffs.- Several of the latest cos
tunes show this new departure. Among
tvelVet, with a. plain silk-lined skirt, very
long and simply trimmed with a narrow
| band of brown SABLE
i The bodice closes with two deep seal
lops on one side, each fastened with
Jeweled button and edged with sable like
the skirt. The tight sleeves have a point
shoulder puff. of velvet also fur trimmed
| A jeweled belt is worn and the stock
| collar is of finely tucked white mousse
! line de sole, and has a huge cravat bow
| under the chin tying with long wide
| ends appliqued with real lace. wide
1 brimmed picture hat of green velvet COM
sable skin and green p1utnes
Felix Fournery.