Oxford Democrat. [volume] (Paris, Me.) 1833-1933, 1900-05-01
HOMKMAKERS COLUMN.


ATTRACTIVE SPRING FASHIONS.
More than ever before are this spring.
fashions pcmsrksble for their diversity
All types Of faces and figures are cateret
to, and II . woman ID not appropriately
and becomingly gowned this season Il L
decidedly her own fault and cannot b
laid at the door Of Dame Fashion.
Side by aide with the new pleated OF
tucked skirt, which 10 being evolved Il
such infinite variety, the plain skirt with
box pleated back, richly decorated with
applications Of cloth or satin, must b
noted.
Just now the invention Of our dress.
makers Is bound up In planning move
ideas for the elaborate strapping Of
cloth gowns. and In finding variety fol
the pleated and tucked skirts. One Of
the prettiest OF the tucked skirts has I
wide, plain front, the back and sides be
ing tucked half way down. The tucks,
fitting close to the body, merge beauti
fully into the slight train or "sweep" II
the back.
All fair women will rejoice that thu
real old-fashioned pale blue-a blue
which has nothing Of the turquoise col
oring In its composition--is sgain II
vogue. The most picturesque Of picture
hats are to be seen 10 tucked silk Of thii
generally becoming color. There Il
something very simple and innocent II
pale blue; and while II 10 In vogue Il
will be a. well for admirers Of the color
often to wear 1t. We are promised blue
tulle hats In the summer, gathered on
wires.
Black, which Is always In vogue ID
this season, Ia to be more fashionable
than ever. There is really nothing pref
tier or more smart for q spring gowr
than black cloth trimmed with black sllf
applique, the jacket thickly covered
with this oruameDtation. With n gowr
of this kind II 10 easy to be suitably
dressed, for an inexpensive silk waist
makes the toilette fit for any ordinary
wear, and with the Introduction Of more
ornamental ones II can be adapted to any
occasion required.
The bolero has taken on q new lease
Of life. II owes It's perennial resuscits
ton to the longing = woman Of small
means has TO wear some trife Of the
more expensive fabrics which Adorn he,
richer rivals. Cut panne velvet, for In.
stance, 10 a very expensive thing unless
We are contented with the small frag
ment which will cut short seamless
bolero. The revival Of the bolero has
Of course, brought draped corselets and
belts TO the fore. Here 10 another mean.
Of using the delicate drapsble psnns
which everybody wants to wear-be Il
only one-sighth OF q yard In the form ol
rosette In the hat.
Strap and applique trimming have
now arrived at perfection and this Ger
tainly means for the already overbur
dened modiste great increase OF labor
The applied cloth or satin IL tackled or
the parts Of the gown TO be decorated
the outline Of the selected pattern Il
carefully marked out with the basting
the mschinist stitches over this lacking
lastly the superAuous applied cloth II
cut away close to the stitching. Thi'
means q great deal OF work, and skillfu
work. too.
To strap like this all the seams ant
edges Of = coat means nearly doubling
the quantity of cloth required. Oul
fashionable .dressmakers allow one and
three quarters yards Of cloth for strap'
on coat that cuts into two yards.
Satin strspping takes less stuff rs II Il
put on In the form Of bias bands "a,
much as thirty-six yards OF strappins
was employed on one smart coat ant
skirt but II Is more difficult TO apply
The pattern has to be tackled or chalkec
out on the garment, then the strappins
has TO be tackled in place, the edges, Of
course, being neatly turned In. Wher
the dressmsker has completed this hsr
assing task, she hands the work over e
the machinist. OF course seams ar,
made and pressed before the strappinS
is commenced. The lining Is put II
afterwards.
One OF the loveliest forms OF strsppinS
is the psle-colored (or black cloti
straps applied to the seams and edges o.
coats and capes. Smart little coats AT,
strapped with black, buff, or slmont
green cloth, carefully stitched 10 silk Il
match, with the hsppiest effect. Mauv'
straps on black and gray is pretty sug
gestion, however, for half-mourning.
In many skirts the tucks are so tiny
that they are mere ribs or cordings. Ir
fact q oouturier Of note says that b.
allows the same material for cording a
be does for minute tucks. And the effec
Of both IL almost Identical.
A very pretty trimming for velvet col
laes and cuffs Is to strap the edge Will
stitched satin 10 q contrasting shade
msuve or gray, for example. Whoevel
has = scrap Of handsome velvet, cloth
or satin by her can use II now, for belts
boleros, collars and cuffs display TIT
daintiest combinations of materials ant