The Washington weekly post. (Washington, D.C.) 1878-1916, 1900-10-30
Short Skirts Are in Vogue for
ALI Time.
BOTH HEALTH AND CLEANLINESS
Moreover Long skirts Are Ma Longer Cen
siaered Grneefai When Wsrn on the
ssreet-skirts Which Do Not Tsueh the
Ground May BE worn Any Leasth- SEN
sibie Walking shoes shsuid BE Worn
with shorf skirts-Otber Fashion Hints.

all For the first time in years II has
become possible TO be comfortably and
sensibly dressed for the affairs of life
and to be smart at the same time. What
considerations of health and cleanliness
failed to achieve, fashion mas brought
about with perfect success. Long-trailing
skirts are little seen upon the busy streets,
and occasion rather a feeling OF distaste
than approval when they are met. To
the credit of womankind il is said that
the change once started spread with sur
prlsing zeal. In a few months We have
come to change the point of view dntil In
place OF calling long skirts graceful,
We now stigmatize them as "hopelessly
Out OF taste" and in somewhat superior
tcne are wont TO add poor woman, she
has nowhere else TO explicit her gowns"
TO be correct, the busy woman, whether
she go to her office or simply attend such
domestic matters as mean shopping, mar
keting, and the like, must wear a skirt
that falls 10 touch the pavement at any
point. If she desires il may be cut TO
the ankles; If she prefer. it may reach the
instep, or 1t may just clear the ground:
the autocrat who governs such matters
leaves so much of choice. even though IL
must be added that smartest gowns fall
10 the instep at least, and are no more
overshort than they are overlong. Where
as not so long ago We saw bedraggled
skirts en- route for the business of the
day. the early morning hours now show
trim' Well-kept gowns, that are graceful
and sensible in one. The American girl
is quick TO recognize a good thing Even
the most trifiing of the thousands who
daily seek the great business centers
have accepted the fiat and as a result our
streets are far more inviting than was
the case before the change came about.
The Question of Feet.
The one criticism and suggestion that
remains to be made pertains to the Dues
ton of feet. Such queer incongruities as
one sees! Surely, good sense ought to
teach that Louis XIV heels and pointed
toes do not harmonic with heavy cloth
severely made. Yet not alone the giddy
girls, but many women of mature years,
yield TO the mistaken theory that the
shoe made on such lines lessons the APP
parent size Of the feet. Dealers assert
that the short skirt has meant sudden
demand for the high, curving heels, and
one has but to watch a crowded thor
oughfare to realize that the statement is
true. Yet We all know that they are a
merace to health. and little observation
ought to teach that they are not really
attractive when wholly exposed to view.
Ladies of the famous Louis court wore
sweeping trains Only then little toes
peeped in and out between their folds.
Seen in such glimpses, the shoe made a
pretty picture, and the foot seemed small
er than the actual fact. Who has ever
Fr-1f pb
without realizing the ungainly gait and
recognizing how defOrmed the entire foot
appeared. Sound, sensible Shoes shapely
and well made, with slightly extended
soles, make the harmonious foot covering
for wear with walking skirts The smart
est women recognize the fact and wear no
other sort. 1t is the foolish. unthinking
ones who order thin soles and the like,
and apparently remain in ignorance that
they are 10 more correct than they are
truly handsome. To be quite up to date,
footwear and gown must suit one anoth-
er to perfection. To fail in appropriate
ness is to betray oneself. Some few
months ago it was even rumored that
golf would be played in high heels. but
any study of well-dressed players proves
the fallacy at a glance.
Materials for Short Gewns.
The favorite material for the short
skirted gown is undoubtedly the golf cloth
that requires no lining, but the finer quail
ties only can honestly be commended for
such hard usage, and many heavy chevy
lots and homespuns are used. If possible
il is wise to leave the skirt unlined, as
such costumes are liable to exposure 10
dampness and no two materials are af-
fected in exactly the same way, besides
which, the question of weight is TO be con-
sidered and good cloth woven for the pur-
pose is warm and soft, at the same time
that IL is light in weight. AS a busy ener-
getic woman remarked after days trial
of her short skirt, lone has no sense of
hampering weight at all. | simply feel
free as any man, yet am conscious that I
am well dressed" But just here let me
add that that same freedom IS found only
in well-cut skirts. Fashion permits cir
cular three piece and ive-gored styles.
but each one must he good of its sort, AMI
well planned, or beware of the result. The
ordinary skirt merely shortened will not
suffice. Its lines are designed fer greater
length, and are spoiled by the cutting off
required. The short pattern is modelled
with the proper length in view, and Is
shapely as well as OF ample width.
Coats take many forms, but should be
severely plain and tailor-finished Beneath
them are worn shirt waists OF flannel,
cashmere, Henrietta or simple silk, but
no fancy bodice OF any sort. Etons OF
various sorts are much in vogue. Blouses,
Russian and plain, are greatly liked. Nor
folk styles have also been added 10 the
list. and the little REFER jacket always
holds its place. Browns. dark tans, and
grays, among which the oxford holds first
place, and black are ali worn. One OF
the handsomest suits l have seen is in
oxford cloth. with a black and white
plaid back. The skirt is cut in five cores.
over each OF the four front seams Is
stitched strap OF the cloth, narrower at
the top and broadening TO two inches al
the bottom. where 1t terminates in point
AT the right front seam is inserted
pocket that means peace 20 the wearer,
and which is concealed by the stitched
strap. The coat is a Jaunty novelty that
combines the Norfolk and Jacket ideas
The back includes three applied pleats Of
the cloth that give taperiae effect to
the figure, but the fronts cease to be Nor
folk al the darts, which are covered with
a plat, and become double-breasted in
Jacket style. The belt passes round sides
and back. then under the rounded fronts,
where II is hooked and held in place. In
common with all the seasons wraps. Il Is
short. extending only slightly below the
waist and IS exceedingly novel aud smart.
Another costume Is IN brown ehevlot In
this instance the skirt has a fitted facing
on the outer edge that Is stitched at in
teryals OF en- inch for is entire width, but
otherwise Is plain. The jacket is a blouse
with two removable coachman's eapes
that add greatly to IT'S style and mean
comfort for the weather that is certain 10
come befor. many weeks. Preferably all
The costumes are en- suite. skirt and Jack
et Of the same cloth, but black Is always
allowable with any skirt and such wraps
are seen IN conjunction with tan and mix
ed tweeds, although ! am forced TO add
they are never quite so elegant