Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-03-22
AMERICANS IN CUBA
Only a Few Adapt Themselves to
the Conditions There.
MOST COME HOME DISGUISED
Those in Official Life Make Them
selves Comfortable.
T HE DAILY UTIN E
Copyright, 1900, by ]. D. Whelpley)

are accustomed can make themselves very
comfortable in Cuba, as they can almost
anywhere else in the world. 1t is the con-
ventional animal, the creature of one habit
and intolerant prejudices. who finds most
fault and incidentally is the most uncom-
Portable.
The tourist who comes to Cuba generally
spends week at the capital, makes fly
ing trip from Havana to one or more of
the larger cities of the island, then returns
to the United States and is glad to get
back. He has rough passage across the
channel coming and going. By COMPARE
son he pays large prices for poor hotel
accommodations. The food is not attrac-
tive. He has difficulty, because of the for
eign language spoken. The railroad ac
commodations are third class. The cities
are much alike, the streets are badly
paved and lighted, If at all, and, altogether,
the tourist of few days is well satisfied
that he has seen all there is to see, that it
does not amount to SO very much, and he
readily acknowledges that the Cubans are
welcome to Cuba, SO far as he is con-
cerned, for the United States is good
enough for him. From this point Of view
this tourist is undoubtedly correct, but
there is another point of view Of which he
has caught glimpse unless more for
tunate than his fellows.
How Omcialdom Fares.
The hundreds of Americans in army and
official circles who have lived from a month
to a year in Cuba have found 1t possible to
make themselves very comfortable. Even
these, however, have been handicapped by
the nature of their duties. Their business,
in all probability, calls them at least for
part of the day to portions of the cities
where life in the tropics appears at it's
worst. Some of them have been stationed
at Isolated barracks, others where the pop
nlatjon dense
all of them have learned, however, that by
adopting the customs of the better class Of
natives, making the best of the food OBJ
tainable and seasoning everything with
liberal dash of philosophy, life in Cuba
has not only been bearable, but to a GER
tain degree enjoyable.
To those who have come under favorable
circumstances to make their home in Cuba,
who are cosmopolitan in their tastes and
who are liberal and adaptable in all things,
this island has been no disappointment. 1t
is not country for Americans of limited
means. The poor man in Cuba may pos
sibly be content and happy If he is a ma
tive, but there is no contentment, happiness
or comfort in his lot if he is a stranger to
the land. Work is scarce that such can do.
Wages are low for all. Everything is eE-
pensive, except the barest necessities and
certain of the native products with which
the inhabitants can do well enough frcm
their standpoint of living, but which seem
poor, scanty and Impossible of utility to
the man accustomed to the plentiful and
varied fare, speaking comparatively. of
even the day laborer in the United States.
Who May he Happy There.
Allowing that the American who comes
here to live has enough money to secure
good quarters, good servants and the best
food purchasable, can SO arrange his life
as to keep away from the squalor and the
unattractiveness which exist in places,
and can enter to some degree into the
charming social life which is open to such
as these, then Cuba becomes not only pleas
ant, but desirable, as place of residence to
those who do not look upon the smoke Of
large cities as the breath of life.
The great square rooms with high ceilings
and little or no furniture seem dark and
bare to the tourist. To the adopted citizel
they become cool, comfortable and inviting
After one becomes accustomed to the archi-
lecture and arrangement of the best houses
no change for the better, everything being
taken into consideration, seems possible
The food Is varied, though the meats, as a
rule, are very poor. The cooking is Span
ish, and would be greatly improved by a
more liberal use of condiments Dishes
which in Mexico are highly palatable be-
cause of the liberal supply of chile sauce
are almost taSteess as served in Cuna. for
the lack of it. 1t seems strange that Mex
leans should use this sauce so plentirully
and so acceptably, and that 1t should he al
most entirely unknown in Cuba. This is
equally true, however, of the Central Amer
lean states, so there must he some reason
why its use is confined t. Mexico and has
not extended to other countries where live
the same kind of people, with the same
tastes and the same material available as
basis for the bill Of fare.
Daily Routine of Business.
If the American who has adopted Cuba
as a, home Is In business he finds it advan-
tageous to rise early, and perhaps do a lit
tie work before he goes to his orange and
his coffee at 8. From that time until break
fast, which is at IL, is the busiest part of
the day. The mail comes in. Messengers
come and go between the various business
houses, and the day starts off with a rush
An hour or more is generally given to
breakfast, even by the Americans. If there
is unfinished work in the Office. from break
fast until in the afternoon is good time
to do it, fo- before the latter hour It is
most unlikely that any member of a firm
can be found at the old Spanish or Cuban
establishments. Those houses do not act
ually close up from IL to 9, as is the Gus
tom in Mexico, but there is a general air Of
respite about the establishments. which is
discouraging to man in a hurry to do
something.
CHANGING in the doors of these places lie
fore noon the passerby can see the en-
ployes at breakfast, all seated at a long
table with the proprietor or one of the
managers at the head. and coffee, cigar
cites and gossip pass away an hour or SO
after the meal Is finished and all go slowly
back to work. About in the afternoon
work ceases. Men lean over the ratings in
the ground floor windows and talk to those
passing by or across the street. The big
doors of the buildings close one by one
along the street until the commercial life
of the city, SO far as outward sign goes
has stopped for the day. Then comes the
dinner. which takes another hour or two
Then the walk to the parks, the neighbours
window, or an act at the theaters, which
open at s.
When Night Comes On,
BY this time the heavy carts and draws
have disappeared from the streets and their
places are taken by carriages, which pass
each other in long professions, nearly every
one occupied by some one on social duty or
pleasure bent. The night air grows heavy
with that strange feeling of unwholesome
dampness. 1t is almost chilly, and the IN
acclim2ted stranger shivers with a fore
boding of nameless ills, which figure in his
mind as fevers of all kinds and variety
From the iron-barred windows of the
houses the faces Of the inhabitants peer