The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1900-05-06
ROUND ABOUT CORDOVA
A REsTFUL CITY WHICH WILL NOT
GIVE WAY TO MODERN HASTE.
strange Mipgling of Roman and
Arabian, Gothic and Spanish in
the Old City Of the Caliphs.

Correspondence of the indianapolis Journal.
CORDOvA, Spain, March @.-Guide-book
tourists seldom devote more than one day
to this forgotten capital of the Caliphs,
and many even take it in between trains.
getting only hurried glimpses of its crooked
streets and splendid mosque. These make
a grave mistake, for there Is no city in the
world to compare with Cordova in romantic
and historic interest. One loses the best
of a Spanish tour by following too closely
in beaten paths; he may get his fill of
'prominent features" but misses alto
gether the true spirit of the countryside
mingled SAVIOR of romance and antiquity,
charming sloth and poetic rascality which
distinguishes Spain above any other por-
ton of Europe. Cordoya's manifold charms
of m-ellowness and tranquility grow upon
the world-wearied traveller. until he finds
it difficult to tear himself away For the
worn-out nerves and tired brains of those
who nave been living the high-pressure life
of American cities, its stiffness and solem-
nifty act like a cooling poultice on an in
fammation; while the semi-invalid finds
more benefit in the simple food and soft
Andalusian air than in all the nostrums of
the medicos.
To be sure, there is a good deal to annoy
one here. in the slowness with which the
smallest affairs of every day are conducted
the universal maxim being never do to
day anything that can possibly be deferred
till to-morrow-the 'smanana'' that never
comes. Nothing seems to surprise and dis
gust these good Cordovans so much as the
vulgar promptitude and everlasting hurry
of the average Anglo-Saxon. One soon
learns that ii is no use trying to change
the customs of a thousand years to fit those
of New York or Chicago, and that to kick
against the pricks of environment only in
creases the delay. BY far the better way is
to possess ones soul in patience. remem-
boring that railway trains, diligences and
muleteers expect to wait indefinitely, and
that to keep a business engagement any
where near the hour named is to make the
inevitable waiting longer at the other end
of the line.
A HISTORICAL TEMPLE.
If one rambles around Cordova he is
continually coming upon new-old objects
of interest, many of which are not men,
toned in any guide book. To get the great
est entertainment out of the day, one
oAiO0A0 NA0 toAiy III tiC
morning, on the picturesque bridge that
Octavius Caesar has the credit of build-
ing, but which is really the work of the
Caliphs of Cordova: spend the hot mid
day hours in the marble forest" of the
great mosque. or the cool and odorous
Court of Oranges; and enjoy an evening
drive or promenade in one of the plazas.
The Cordoese are extremely proud of their
quaint old bridge-and with abundant
reason, for there is not another like 1t on
the face of the earth. The arms of the
city, "a bridge placed on water" refers to
it. Never was a queerer blending of
Roman and arabian styles than it's sixteen
irregular buttressed arcnes and huge
Moorish gateway leading through a tower
which was once part Of the city walls
the ruins of Octavious Caesars bridge
serving as a foundation for the superstruc-
ture of the Caliphs, erected A. D. 19. At
one end of 1T is the gypsy quarter, the
haunt of robbers, brigands and rascals of
every grade; at the other. the historic
castle of Calahorca, memorable for its i'm
portant part in the siege of Cordova by
Pedro of CASTLE. Close by, standing out
conspicuously in the now shallow river,
are lie III Oh SOiHe AlOOIiSn HILLS, WIFI
open horseshoe arches and time-softened
azuelos. Just beyond rises a colossal
statue of st. Raphael, the arch-angel, who
is believed to be the especial protector of
Cordova. He assumed the high Office on
May Z, 1873. in a spiritual naturalization
to an obscure priest, named Andres Roelas,
in course of which the angel announced his
purpose in these words which are carved
upon the column: "Yo tie juro por Jesu
Christie cruzifcado. Que soy Rafael angel,
a quien Dios tiene puesto por guardo de
este cuidad."
Nothing can be more. entertaining than
the early morning scenes upon Cordova's
ancient bridge-the huge brown gateway of
the Arabs as an artistic background for
the groups of gaudily-dressed peasants who
have to wait with their mules while their
burdens are being closely examined by tax
collectors at the city barrier. An equal
stream of mules and drivers, flowing coun-
tryward, becomes congested at the gate
beasts kicking, struggling and braying;
men. women and children shouting, ges-
ticulating, swearing or singing; while 9TH
ers improve the shining hour Of waiting
with the ever-present and always consoling
6uAtoib hhiPAOAiPtuO aN ohd Aditodii6OCS Y
companying the music. Beggars and Grip
pies are out in force, wrapped in their
ragged, snuff-colored cloaks; and lottery
ticket vendors, too, as no Spanish scene is
complete without them. Priests under
shovel hats and monks in cowls and hemp
en- girdles pass to and fro: and now and
then some rural knight comes galloping in,
his servant following close behind-for all
the world like ''the country gentleman, Don
Quixote" and his faithful Sancho Panza,
from La Mancha, which lies Just beyond
the nearest range of hills. Particularly no.
ticeable as part of the varied panorama are
companies of young priests and students
from the converts, with their flowing black
gowns and broad-brimmed silken black
hats. turned up at both sides like q SUI
gar-scoop. Some of the students are intent
upon their lessons, coming them aloud.
even In the streets, others assuming blase.
man-of-the-world airs, smoking their cigar
cites and chucking pretty peasant girls UNI
der the chin.
ARCHITECTURAL COMBINATIONS.
Not least among the sights Of Cordova
are the time-mellowed walls that surround
tia curious combination OF Gothic and
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