Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-02-17
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puolhs, IN which you can get delicious
hsh meal for few cents. The fish are
cooked IN kettles OF olive oil, over char
coal braslers. When served there is no
haVor OF the oil about them. OF even
greasy appearance, but even and DELI
cately Drowned as the best chef at Del
monico.s could 90. The oil Is first
cleared OF any flavor by cooking in II a
Few bits OF dog fish, which has the same
tuect, known 20 Yankee housewives, Of
potatoes cooked In burned lard, the p0-
tat0es absorbing an taste and smell.
The Droyerb God sends meat ana
NE devil cooks is OF lberlan origin.
The spanish word for cooking food
Bulsar--sOunds suik.ugly Ike disguise:
ana Truly, Spanish grease and garlic 20
far toward disgusting anything edible.
Cd1i2 has peculiar flavor AN IT'S own,
I'm food as no everything else. liz hO-
tells are the poorest imaginable. their
attempted French cuisine modified By
the savage taste OF the NisIgoth. There
are many casas de- huspedes, answering
o. our boarding houses and restaurants,
when the majority paironize rather
thdn The hotels. All open directly upon
INC busy streets, in full view of passers-
bf on The narrow sidewalks. which are
always lined with beggars. 10 whose
oui-stfeiChed, lmpiuring hands the soap
Of 'Old CASTLE Is
MANIFESTLY A STRANGER.
Only two meals day are served,
breakfast ana dinner: but as each Oc-
cupies 40 least two hours, ana three or
four on occasions of ceremony. each
and every dish of ths interminable
courses being served by itself-there is
no tme for any more ON entering
public dining room. though you have
never seen soul there before and
probably never VIII again. you salute
the roomtull by a comprehensive salaain
ana an all-embacing Buenos dias,' or
"buenos tardes." according 10 the hour:
and on leaving the room you bow again
to the remaining company aud wish
them 'buen prOycchO les haga v v"
may your meal profit you" Omis-
sion VI this courtesy Is considered gross
Yulgarlty But somehow, Spanish po-
likeness Is a thin veneer which gives
out IN spots. The men always wear
their hats at hotel tables. women eat
with their knives and openly pick their
teeth, and both draw water noisily into
their mouths and eject 1t on the floor
when the meal Is over.
A delicious dish that Is frequently
served In Cadiz-at least we thought II
delicious until We learned what IL was,
Is called cangrejo4 II Is the fore claws
OF crabs, that pa,t OF the animal only
being used. The coast marshes beyond
Puniales breed innumerable small
crabs. Men, women and children make
a business Of hunting them. tearing OF
the fore legs OF the living animal. and
then turning u loose, MANNED and suf-
fering, 20 grow new legs and be again
and again dismembered. To be sure
they are only crabs. but had they
voices, think what cries Of agony would
rise 10 heaven from the Cadiz marshes
II Is no wonder that Spain has been
over-run with smugglers since time out
Of mind Heavy taxes on the most
necessary food articles make living ex.
penses so very high that the smugglers
ought 10 be regarded as public bene-
factors rather
THAN LAW-BREAKERs.
Neither city nor state derives any great
benefit from the imports for most of
the money goes into the pockets Of
petty officials, hence the smuggler trade
appears 10 be the safest In the country.
Everybody in Spain plumbers everybody
beneath him. beginning with king and
clergy and so on down, 10 the servants
who also have their servants, who in
turn take II out on their donkeys.
The distance from Cadiz TO se-
Vile Is about 20 miles by railway.
and considerably more by the Guadal-
quivlr unsOphistlcated travellers may
choose the river route for the romance
OF the thing but they viii never do Il
Il second time The only romance
about this historic river Is It's name
the Arab Wad-0l-keber. Cgreat riyer'D,
pronounced In Spain, wah-dal- ke-veer.
The gray and turbid stream is navlga-
bic as far as COrdOya. and barges Of
100 tons may ascend 10 Seville The
river scenery Is OF the tamest-treeless
plains, with hedges OF "prlckly-pear"
cactus; farther on. fields u wheat and
corn, and By and by the vineyards OF
Here's.
Going by rail you come upon novel
sight. just beyond the isthmus marshes.
Far as the eye can see the whole land
scape is studded with small, snow white
yramids-thOusands OF glistenlng
mounds each In the center OF a square
plot, dug out Ike a nower-bed and
filed with salt water The pyramids
ARE SOLID SALT,
the shallow beds are the pans in which
salt Is eyaporated, aud everywhere are
little canals. bringing In sea water. The
salt cryStalizes first along the edges Of
the pans, when II looks like a border Of
frcsh-fallen snow. Ii takes about fort
night for one OF these 10 evaporate, eX-
cept when a leyante blows the north
err so dreaded elsewhere which. like
those OF Texas, always come up from
the south. The drying power OF the
levanter Is so great that three or four
days will eyaporate the salt. hence the
more disagreeable the wind, the better
pleased are the miners. Some idea OF
the extent and importance Of this salt
Industry may be inferred from the
fact that IL supports q town OF 1900
sQuls-san Fernando ten miles from
Cadiz II Is p gay little city. with
snow-white houses and fantastic latti-
ces. but 1t IS said that IFS citizens can
hardly be classed among "the salt of
the earth" though depending entirely
upon salt for a living.
In the ueighborhooi Of Here's now
called Jerez. where the famous sherry
is made vineyards occupy all the land
shat is not covered with "hodegas" and
manufactures Of wine. Some OF the
bodcgas or wine cellars are said 10
contain as many as 1900 butts Piles
OF caskets extend for miles on both
sides Of the track and one maryels that
SO much liquid good or bad. can ever
be disposed ~. Speaking Of the mag
nltude OF this Industry an English fel-
tow traveller told me that last year up-
wards of twelve million dollars worth
N German alcohol made OF hcets and
potatoes) was imported into Spain, for
the sole purpose OF adulterating Neres
sherry for the foreign trade, We shall
visit the place later from Seville and
learn more about t.
As travellers approaching our nation-
al capital see from afar the Washing
ION monument dominating the land
scape. so we caught the first sight of
me Moorish Geralda while yet long
vay from Seville. rising above olive
groves and gardens. with the green
,ms OF the Cuadalquivir for an apprO-
pirate background AS we drew nearer
a hundred magnificent structures came
MO view. the Alcazar, with IFS court.
ards and foun'ains. the cathedral