Evening star., 1900-11-17

nainsook are no cheaper than silk or linen.
Strangely enough while 1t Is against the
canons Of good taste now prevailing to
overtrfm either chemise or corset cover.
the drawers and night dresses are smooth
cred in lace and cut on the most compii-
Gated patterns. A corset waist must, of
course, have no skirts. but some of them
are made very coouettish with solid tuck
Ing at back and front and small revers
turning back from the decollete neck, and
small double ruche. formed of Valencien-
nes edging. following the edges of revers
armholes, etc.
The handkerchief cache corset has al
most vanished except for use with very
loose negliges, and fiat shoulder trim
ming Is invariably used for the chemise.
Sometimes a series Of handkerchief corner
revers Softens the shoulder line of this gar
ment. and the women who promote the
best and most elegant fashions in under
wear use none but white or pastel tinted
wash ribbons threaded in their lingerie.
Jeweled stay hooks. gold tags for laces, be-
diamond garter buckles, studs for corset
are reckoned the rightful property of the
vulgarienne, II one may be permitted to fem
inize and Gallacize word that expresses
pretty clearly the overdressed women, who
rejoice in the exaggeration Of every mode
Georgeous Night Dresses.
The consciousness of being well dressed
perhaps soothes to dreams the women who
have adopted the elaborate night dresses
WHICH dIc now CFUWuluS Out lUe SiIllpleI
modes. Full gathered skirts, yokes finished
off with deep berthas, undersleeves, trains
and full hanging folly sleeves have all been
adapted to the glorification Of the robe de-
mutt, though it is very well understood that
a small percentage Of even rich women buy
and use these garments as night dresses.
They serve only too delightfully."- as elegant
loungin8 gowns, over which in cold weather
a flowing sleeveless wadded silk Japanese
wrap Is cast. allowing the gorgeous lace
hung fronts and sleeves of the cambria
gown to be amply and effectively exposed
COmbfnE Jackets.
OF the combing jackets and morning neg
iiges hardly too much can be said In their
praise. With few exceptions they are made,
when short, In Zouave form, and when
long, Of empire shape. A truly lovely affair
brought across the water, is Of cream white
wool crepe in the body of which many
silk threads seem mingled. A wide collar
falls back over the shoulders and is faced
with pure white broad tail. as brilliant and
flexible satin. band of the broad
tall is cut in points and borders the bot
tom Of the long loose ShapeleSS wrapper,
and the lining is Of white chiffon. which
descendS from the interior of the sleeves
to form full undersleeves about the wrist.
Not less lovely is the short breakfast
jacket, shown in an accompanying illus
tration. It is zouave in shape and
wrought of white satin surfaced crepe de
chine. From the slightly opened throat re-
vers of embroidered cream silk turn back
and the jacket is fastened in front with
great chou CT pale blue chiffon, which lets
fall nearly 20 the knees long trimmed sash
ends OF the same.
Charmingly pretty, as we'll as pleasantly
useful, are the short flannel petticoats made
for winter wear with delicate lingerie. They
are cut with habit backs and the flannel is
pure white, but thin enough to borrow a
tint from q soft silk beneath and with
which they are lined The silk and fan
mel are fastened together at the belt and
again at the edge of the skirt, at which last
point frill Of lace upon a pinked founda-
ton frill of silk forms the finishing touch.
These skirts, and the corset covers knit
ted of white Shetland wool, are the only
concessions to winter weather that the
smart woman makes in her wardrobe of un-
derwear The Shetland jacket is knit of
ivory white yarn and fastens with a series
of little ribbon bows up the front, and
while it is very warm, it adds scarcely
shade to the bulk of even a stout woman.
MARY DEAN.