Vilas County news. [volume] (Eagle River, Vilas County, Wis.) 1896-1927, 1900-08-27

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sleep at night and sit doubled up by
day, and as often there is no covering
of any sort you are exposed to blazing
sun or pelting rain, as the case may be.
Sometimes one elects to travel on
horseback, but this mode of pro-
gressioH also has it drawbacks, for
though Chinese ponies are strong,
sturdy little creatures, they are general
ly only half broken and perform such
extraordinary antics, especially when
a European tries to cope with them,
that it is not always an easy matter to
retain your seat. much less to induce
your lively steed to consult your
wishes instead of following it's own
yagaries.
A Chinaman seldom or never lets
his pony lie down, as he thinks it will
get rheumatism if he does so. Poor
Dobbin's head is tied up close to the
stall, and if he takes forty winks' at
all he has to take them standing
The traveller in China must be pre-
pared for many discomforts, but if he
can stand Chinese inn he can put UP
with anything. This, of course, does
not apply to the comfortable hotels in;
places like Shanghai or the other
treaty ports, but in the genuine native
inns, in which you have to fare as a
Chinaman fares. These are really
miserable Places with scanty accom-
mediation and an abundance of dirt.
1t is necessary to bring your own bed
ding and blankets. for if any are pro-
vided for you they are usually in such
state that you are better without
than with them. The food, too, is not
very attractive to an American palate,
and you would have to be very hungry
before you could enjoy meal which
your host places before you. This
generally consists of some washy tea
and bowl of boiled millet or rice,
with perhaps a few condiments or
picked vegetables by way of f1avoring.
Sometimes, after an exciting chase, a
fowl is caught for dinner and your
spirits rise as it is placed upon the
table But, alas! it generally turns
out to have been the patriarch of the
farmyard and is SO tough and skinny
| that you get up from the board feeling
as hungry as when you sat down.
At length, quite tired out, you seek
your couch, such as it is. but a good
nights rest is quite out of the
question, for, in addition to the on
slaught of thousands of mosquitoes
and other insects, you are likely as not
to be kept awake by a variety Of
noises, such as a violent sQuabble be-
tween two Cinnamon in the adjoining
room over a game of cards, the tramp
ling and sQuealing of the mules in the
courtyard or the barking of the inn
dogs, which have not yet got over their
indignation at your arrival Then.
very early in the morning, when you
have perhaps fallen into a troubled
doze, you are aroused by the voices of
the carriers as they harness their ami
mails, admonishing them the while in
no gentle terms, and you realize that it
is time to get up. You accordingly
ask for some hot water, and it is
brought to you in little bowl about
the size of a slop basin, and if you ask
for larger supply your request is re-
ceived with establishment, for the
native mind cannot understand the
propensity of the European for wash
ing, a dab with wet rag being, ac-
cording to their ideas, quite sufficient
for all ordinary purposes.
Having breakfasted and settled your
bill for board and lodging, you are glad
to leave the uncomfortable inn and
take long draughts of the fresh morn
ing air as you once more start on
your journey.