The Portland daily press., 1900-03-09
SALADS.
BY Louis Role.

n there Is one thing more neglected
than another in the American household
Il Is the duty of furnishing for each din
ner at least a proper. healthful and appe-
tizing salad. The French not only eat
a salad at dinner, but r. most cases at
lunch, and quite often at breakfast.
The coming of spring makes this sub
feet an especially seasonable one. There
Is n craving for the tonic found In early
green stuffs that can be satisfied in no
other way, and when II is considered that
not lettuce alone but asparagus, cab
bage, mustard, chicory, caulifiower
(boiled) celery ,dandelion and watercress
may also form the basis of salad,
there seems no good reason why anyone
should 20 without that which nature de-
mands.
In preparing Of all green salads your
first care must be to freshen the green
stuff used by placing in very cold water.
cleaning thoroughly Of all foreign mat
tiers. drying carefully in towel avoid
ing crushing the leaves as much as pos
eible, as a crushed leaf soon wilts), and
shredding with the fingers instead OF
cutting or chopping with a knife, as Is
too often done. 1 do not mean that
shredding is always necessary, for let
tuce is often served with the leaves en-
tire, and more desirable in that form
unless 1t can be eaten almost as soon as
It is shredded All salads to be nice
should be freshly made and should be
stirred as little as possible.
Although there are many prepared
salad dressings, l believe also that the
dressing should be freshly made to be at
its best, and, other things being equal,
that the simpler the dressing the better.
For nine salads out of ten the simple
French dressing of oil. vinegar, salt,
pepper and mustard is the best. although
the yolks of hard boiled eggs rubbed
fine and smooth may be added to give
color without any bad effect. Melted
fresh butter may be used in place of oil.
but in all cases only the best ingredi-
ents should be used. A simple formula
for salad dressing with eggs is as fol-
lows: Rub the yolks of two boiled eggs
very fine and smooth, combine with one
teaspoonful of dry English mustard, one
of salt. one dessertspoonful of sugar and
the yolks of two raw eggs well beaten
Into the other ingredients. Add drop by
drop the best olive oil. beating as long
as the mixture continues to thicken;
then add vinegar, stirring until as thin
as desired.
Another dressing Cooked that l have
found excellent for cabbage and vege-
table salads is made in this way: The
yolks of two eggs beaten thoroughly
one teaspoonful of salt one of pepper,
two of sugar, two of any English must
ard. two tablespoonfuls of butter (fresh
is BETTER; stir into this mixture four
tablespoonfuls of sharp vinegar, set in
a kettle of hot water and stir constantly
until ii thickens: set away and when
cool it is ready for use. The above will
make a dressing sufficient for quart
of chopped cabbage or vegetables, and II
used with cabbage should be poured on
when hot and thoroughly mixed.
A cream dressing for cabbage may be
made by taking two parts of whipped
cream, one Of sugar and four of vinegar
mixing thoroughly and pouring over the
cabbage that has previously been cut
fine and well seasoned with salt
A salad not often served but very
tasty is made as follows: String young
beans, break into half-inch pieces and
cook soft in sailed water; drain well,
add finely chopped onions, pepper, salt
and vinegar, and set away to cool. Just
before serving add olive oil or melted
fresh butter. The onions may be omitted
if desired.
The above recipes for cabbage salad
and bean salad have given as excep-
tions to the general rule that salad
should be freshly made, and they are 1
believe the notable exceptions. Fresh
ness, GOODNESS mot frapped). and deli
cate handling of the tender green stalks
used combined with a good dressing,
are the essentials, and no special recipes
for the many salads made are necessary.
Eat more salads is the advice of Louis
Role.