The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-09-09
FIELD MUSHROOMS HERE.
RECIPES FOR 4 DELICACY NOW IN
THE
value OF the Field Mushroom as a Food as
Well as a Luxury-Msny ways OF serving
u-some Dlmcuities About Cooking small
Game Birds Properly-The Canvasbaok.

September, the most bounteous month Of the
year In the Now York markets, has brought
with 1t the annual supply Of a delicaoy which.
In the opinion Of some persons, hea1s the list
Of vegetable Injuries IL Is tho delicious field
mushroom. far daintier and Of rarer favor
than the cultivated variety. which may be had
all the year round The mushroom comes into
market plentifully with September and. al
though with the opening Of the season the in
evitable poisoning cases occur, usually In out
of-the-way places. where the gatherers are
children or ineXperiencei people, the popu-
larity Of the fungi grows instead OF lesseninR
with the increase Of knowledge of things
epicurpan
In most Ca-eS the fresh field mushrooms to
be bought in the market now are entirely safe
| They are brought to market 70 a rule by pro-
fessional raisers, who grow them in mushroom
beis and who are thoroughly acquainted with
every variety Of the food. The presence Of the
poisonous mushroom would show In n bed
Of the eilblc sort Beyond this all careful
cooks Use n silver spoon in stirring the fresh
mushroom while cooking, IA the presence Of
IA" undesirable fungi IL shown by the discol-
GRAFTON Of tho spoon The unCOokci mush-
room, a small portion Of the cap, may also be
tasted with salt, and II the flavor IL pleasant
and without "A sting It Is perfectly safe. An
other old-fashioned test IL 10 cook a white
onion with the vegetable, "a the onion will turn
blnck like the silver spoon II there Is any trace Of
the poison When any doubt exists as to the
edible quality Of the mushroom It must not he
used
The poisonous mushrooms are TO be found
in woods and dark swampy places. There Is
In them an entire absence Of the delicate salmon
color OF the under gills that marks the edible
.p,gt.- Tn, Zach il tatta1ly Iftfar md apiJ
sometimes soft and watery. TIE fresh field
mushroom Is unmiztakable. Its cap il plump,
Of white or cream color and smooth, the stem
sturdy and showing n well-delned white ring
which dries up ~ the mushroom grows older
The odur il very agreeable and the flesh brittle
and compact. The seeds and spores are white
and roundi-h In shape. A tie mushroom
grows, the pink or salmon under gills darker
to brown and finally become quite black.
The mushroom, like most delicately favored
foods. does not profit by elaborate methods
Of preparation. It II nj lis best when prepared
I'm the simplest form. although there are more
than a huniret different recipes for It's cooking
II makes delightful purcss. Ia stewed, baked.
broilcd. stuffed and fried. while the sauces.
cat~ups aud miscellaneous ways Of serving II
are numerous. As the mushroom contains
all the nouri-hment Of animal food. besides
being more easily diges,cd. It il an admirable
substitute for heavier dishes during the early
autumn. The bruiled fresh mushrooms taken
in conjunction with the oysters and various
game birds now In season make an Ideal dinner
For the purpose u broiling the larger muSh-
rooms should be selected and the tons scored
and seasoned, They should De whisked over
with melted butter and broiled on a finely wired
grdiron, then served on. thin buttered toast;
with melted butter and sliced lemon 70 be used
at thc discretion " the Individual.
Mushrooms a la Jerome. a dish concoCted
by the famous wit. were cooked by him IN a
ohaHng dish In this wise. Put a dozen medium
sized mushrooms ia. a chatting dish, remove
the stems. melt hglf a teaspoOniul OF butter
In q outlet dish and before it gets too hot 1T
bottom Of the dish with Mushrooms. on top
~ each put n bit Of butter the size 81 a marble,
, the di-h to the iame. add a spoontui Of sherry
and half II Tint Of beef gravy and cook from
tvu, TO three minutes. according To- the size
Jokes was perpet rated through this dish, which
he cooked personally at a dinner Riyenln honor
stituted bv him in a friends plate, and Will"
he bewildered guest endeavored TO chew the
m,S,grr he "n heard ,Sa The o II ,Es q lh" party ''-
The Fistulin1 h%epetica. or, beefsteak mmsh-
room, l. e%VCellent wnen fried, with crisp slices
and placed on q dish, then fry the beef-teak
MUSHROOM slices until tender. season and serve
with the bacon.
To -Callop the fresh mushroom make a. sauce
Of one tablespoonful ~ butter and one NJ -four
and two Cupful- " chicken broth or white
stock. add 10 this the chopped stalks Of n pint
81 mushrooms. reduce the same onc-hulf, add
a tablespoonful 81 chopped parsley. pepper
and salt. Turn the sauce into a shallow bak--
ing dish. nut in ~ many mushrooms aS Will
hll the dish, placing them close together. gillS
M. Put n niece 81 butter on each and sprinkle
the tops with crumbs and place in an oven
FOR ten minutes or until tender, and serve hot
For a mushroom oInelet the fresh muSh-
rooms are The best Fry the MUSHROOMS IN
butter when they are properly cleo ned aud
season with salt and pepper. Beat the yolks
and whites ot three eggs separately. Then COM
hine them and season Frv hem in butter on
tho omelet pan and when they begin 10 settle
fold the fried seasoned mushrooms within
and serve hot.
cellrnt. Carefully clean the mushrooms This
Is done by washing them In cold salted water,
trimming IN all defective parts and separat-
tng the stems and caps II the mushrooms are
plentiful The stems are good 10 stew and
Try, but the caps are the more delicate in taste
Cut as many slices Of bread "a there are mush-
room caps. trimming of tho crusts and hav-
inR each slice about two inches square; lay
them In n baking pan. spread each slice of bread
with butter, put on each a little pepper and
salt on each slice Of bread put one or more
mushroom caps Put the pan In a hot oven
for five minutes then season with salt and pep
per. put butter on each mushroom, return
the pan 10 the oven and serve when they are
tender
Devilled mushrooms are served at the Wal
dorf cooked after this method Cut Off the stalks
even, with the heads and peel and trim neatly
Brush them over inside with warm butter
and season with salt and pepper and o small
quantity Of Cayenne pepper Put them on a
gridirOn and broil over a clear fire Serve on
n hot dish when cooked
For breakfast mushrooms are good when
served on toast In this way: For n pound Of
mushrooms take a pound Of minced beefSteak
Fry the steak. add salt, pepper. papZika and
half n cup OF water Cook for two or three
minutes strain on the gravy, rejecting the
meat, add the mushrooms cleaned and broken
small Season with butter and lemon Juice
and pour over the toast
\ September menu which includes oysters,
fresh mushrooms and game birds OF some
sort with a celery salad cannot he surpassed
OF all the smaller birds that are coming 10
market. snipe. plover, rail and rice birds. none
l. fuller Of flavor or more difficult 10 cook than
the reed bird that sweetest Of all Of the fcath-
cred tribe The cooking Of small birds IL usu-
ally one of the most dismal attempts in the
category OF culinary failures The average
restaurant invariably overcooks them, TAX
INK all the flavor and body from the bird Some
of the best club and hotel chefs seem incapable
OF cooking u NAL bird, although their tr-
umphs may have made them famous in other
lines, The Southern cooks, on the CONTRARY,
cook birds as though by some fine instinct
Al Norfolk, Va one cannot get a poorly cooked
duck or quail at even the smallest OF the res
t%aurantS, while one place famous for It's Lynn
havens and is canvasbacks has gained a re-
nOwn that causes the place To be spoken of
IN every part OF the globe, DelmoniCo's gained
the greatest reputation for the cooking OF game
and birds The late Charles RhnhOfer mad
go Tho 4 I.tNN ~. Il