The evening times., 1900-01-06
SOME FOREIGN CHEESES.
Their Character Largely Due tn soil
and Climate.
CFrom Tire New York WorldD


fFrom Tire New York WorldO
The history of cheese may be considered
as condensing the whole pastoral poetry
of the Aryan race. The mild and gentle
COW, sacred still among the Aryans OF In
dia fell especially to the charge OF the
women Our very language proves this.
Our word daughter comes from the Sanscrit
duhitar. meaning the milker. from the verb
duo TO milk. Dug for teat, is doubtless
from the same.
Cheese making has been a feminine pro
fession from the start. and on some Eng
Iish farms 10 this very day the money COM
ing from the sale OF the cheese is consld-
cred as the special perquisite pin money,
of the wife. England has long been ia
nous for the quantity and quality OF its
cheeses America in a wholesale way, is
destroying all the traditions Of cheese. Yet.
though America makes cheese by the
mountain load every year. there are not. as
Ia England. France, and Italy any local.
ties famous for special brands.
The reason is not far 10 seek. our
cheese factories collect the milk OF va,
riOus areas, having different sOi.s and
peculiarities OF pasturage. and mix them.
striking thus an average, eatable indeed.
but lacking character.
II has been proved that the quality
depends on the pasturage. Cows. dairy
maids and special methods Of making have
been taken from Cheshire 10 another part
Of England, and the result was product
very different from the famous Cheshire
cheese. Cheddar. too, which comes from a
vale in Somerset. has a favor for which
there is 10 chemical counterfeit II smacks
of the soil: il breathes of the pasture
Rrie comes from a small district near
Paris and is a cream cheese OF unrivaled
delicacy. but not easy to keep during warm
weather.
Camembert. a cheese very similar. though
coarser in flavor. which is made in larger
area in Normandie. has been steadily
pushing into favor.
Pont l'Eevque comes from Normandie-
II is not. as some might suppose merely
a camembeTt gone dry. but is Intentionally
made more solid and mider in taste, and
is 10 per cent more costly.
Port du Salut is another cheese OF the
same order. but superior in flavor TO all
except true Brie. 1t costs about the same
as Rrie. and it may take rank over that
as that was done over Roquefort, and as
Rouuefort did over Swiss, which was the
/ first foreign cheese that ever really had
hold on the affections of the American
stomach.
Roauefort though its price yet is high.
is a rich cheese, more fond OF lingering
on the breath than the others 1t is made
| of goats milk and the chiaro- oscura eff
! fects in il are caused not by rusting ii with
! insertions of wire. but dropping into II
some handfuls of peasant bread.
| Gorgonzola. not French, but Italian. is
more expensive than Roquefort though It's
| base is the same, namely. the milk of the
| goat This cheese comes from the Milan
csc district of Italy retains its aristocratic
! richness unspoiled by the democratic eli
| mate of America, and is good cheese to
| swear by.
| Wherein it differs from Limburger-a
| good one to swear at.
| Parmesan, another Italian or Siciian va
riety, has been kept $50 years and found
! still delicious and full of life and power.
Neufchatel is a French cheese, not a
Swiss as many fancy from the name.