New-York tribune., 1900-11-30
THANKSGIVING AS IT is.
WITH FEW OBSERVATIONS ON WHAT
1T WAS AND HOW TO DINE ON IT.

Thanksgiving was observed yesterday in the
varying manners which have become estab-
lished among various people. Doubtless Thanks
giving is a very degenerate institution. At any
rate, it is not what II was. 1t has lost the
n,7' Of the meaning that 1t had when it was
instituted. things which have been instituted
for good while frequently will. and what is left
Of its older nature is mostly form. while
hundred fantastic devices have been added to it
10 make II ridiculous in the eyes Of the solemn
minded When the fathers came to the shores
OF NeW-England. in order that they might wor
ship in their own way and keep other people
from worshippng in theirs. when they did keep
other people from worshpping in their way and
we're glad Of it. when they killed the Indians
and were glad Of it. when they sang their hymns
as to make them sound as unattractive as
possible and were glad of it, when
At the cart tail they dragged the poor Quaker
Tie9 The9 t41gRSer cropPed 6eT5tes ana IesFs ears
And felt they were serving their Maker,
and were glad OF it-when they thought that
their success in all these things was cause
for especial thankfulness-then Thanksgiving
was one thing. Now it is quite another
The reasons for thankfulness are different
nov. The chief reason of this year is that the
country is getting on pretty well and is likely TO
continue u do 1t only yesterday morn
ing (quite appropriately that word was received
Gently been running for President TO why he
failed 70 he elected President. He said that it
was the cry % prosperity that did 1t. The ex-
planation is almost right, but II has singular
einaccuraCy. L was prosperity that did il, not
the cry of prosperity. It is a pious provision
that Thanksgiving shall come once year any
way. no matter how much or how little there is
10 be thankful for, but It is pleasant TO have
something.
The ca14sa If is special
grounds for thankfulness of the moment. but
ancient custom. Tie observance has changed as
much as the special grounds of the moment
About all that is left Of the old fashioned cele-
rration is the feast, with the turkey as It's
basis. The eating and drinking always
the hardest parts Of a celebration 10 kill. The
fathers used so to church Thanksgiving
morning to return thanks for their blessings
publicly. taking their guns along. that II they
happened TO see any Indians they could show
them that they did not forget them. even in the
midst Of their JOY that If the Indians seemed
10 desire more especial attention. they might
gain renewed cause for thankfulness on the
spot. There are services in the churches STILL
hut attendance is now optional and some per-
sons may even be surprised to learn that the
services are held.
IN this region Thanksgiving has come 10 be a
day specially devoted TO sports. There is no
discernible appropriateness in the custom, but
there it Is. as firmly fixed many another Gus
.c-n Il is also Z wonderful day for theatre
going. 1t is hard to explain how everybody can
have an elaborate dinner usually in the middle
of the day and how at the same time the
theatres can be thronged in the afternoon and
thousands can go TO see football games and
other sports and then how the remnant Of the
dinners can go on in the evening, leisurely ana
long lasting and all the theatres be filled again.
70 see the homes Of the people you would think
fnat there vas nobody away from nome except
those --ro are guests at others homes, and to
$50 the places of public assembly you would
think that nobody at home. There are one
or two other mysteries of Thanksgiving which
VII he touched later.
AS has been said the dinner Is the chlef one
r-r-aining Of the old observanoes And even the
dinner has suffered somewhat at the hands OF
ignorant degenerates, who may know what
good dinner is in q general way, but have no
clear idea OF a Thanksgiving dinner, as distin-
guished from any other dinner Thanksgiv-
Ing dinner should not be course dinner. A
little soup at the beginning Of It must be re-
carded as a Difference to modern institutions
and not as & proper part OF II. Fish should be
rIgidly excluded. 1t has no rightfui place in q
Thanksgiving dinner, and IS doubtless a sign Of
degeneration. The staple OF the dinner is turkey.
II 2 family is small and poor. and wants to
have a fowl instead, the neighbors should re-
sE-Cr the causes and not mention the incident
The bird is supposed 70 be a turkey He should
re roasted. Chestnuts make good stuffing. It IS
mark Of a merely effete refinement to call
stufting dressing. Dressing is doubtless useful
10 put on the lawn. when you are done with it
for TIE summer and want IL to come out well IN
the spring, and Il may be a good thing to restore
the color Of wOmen's shoes, but 1t should not be
mentioned in connection with a Thanksgiving
turkey. II profaues the day.
Two sauces go with the turkey. besides the
stuftlag, neither Of which may be omitted by
the housekeeper who wishes to retain the re-
si@ot of right minded persons. There must
he cranberry sauce and giblet sauce the latter
~ be put on potatoes and more properly known
as gravy. Celery IS absolutely necessary. So
are onions In former times 1t was thought
necessary that everybody present should eat a
considerable quantity Of each one OF these
Things. but according to more recent custom any
cn@ or more may be omitted by anybody who
chooses except the turkey, but they must all
fe on the table. Squash is advisable, and tur-
nlFs and beets admissible but none Of these
g arc indispensable. At many city restaurants small
turkeys are slit and broiled Small parties find
i12 themselves shIpwrecked far from home may
= forgiven for ordering broiled turkey which
IS delicious from a merely gastronon7lc point Of
view but II cannot but be degenerate.
salad IS sometimes added to z Thanksgiving
cLner- ,dodern custom, which prescribes a
salad for pretty much every dinner. must be
&LcHeG TO rule again here, If the househeeper
eAI sugar would be more classical for a Thanks
Fiflng dinner than an ordinary salad. However.
j would doubtless be counted cruel and unusual
10 ask New-Y orkers 10 eat II.
A. The mn he rrIe IL