The Honolulu republican. [volume] (Honolulu, T.H.) 1900-1902, 1900-10-21
FASHION iH1 SOCIETY

OBSERVATION-DISCLOSURES,
For the past wesk q TWO I have 49,
ssTsrai Pre1ty girls witk minute 5saei
pseche. or their foVesy eh=sks- | xe,,
DIR II rher know the origin u that nSy.
OF h-Ss ugly pTzetir~z i certain as,--,
bad sn unfortunate pinple OF her chsr
! which he wished 70 hiss=--hxac4 "a.
black patch After that II Was carrie
10 extremes ard fsi, danes Eorp ship
II full sail upon their faces. Il Is sup
posed TO make th- skin fAirer by contrast
On dit the fashioa viii be revived tn.
yesr. but / bop not in Honolulu q;
least We can eriure much. but 10:
that
I do lot think our sweet girls souI!
look well on s daup dag. OF when thu
south wind is hlowinz. The patch nigh,
b->coms dislOdged-and then wharc
AgGopos of the black patch heard
such good thing the other day. II
seems q seu,i-tVivoloQs young natroa took
to the new 10 with ardor. and being fair.
Il applied the patch where II seemed TO
show her beauty to best advantage
/ One evening AT dance as she emerged
from the darkest corner of the lanai. with
! her LATEST adrsirer.-it was noticed with
! CONSERVATION and amusement that the
LATEST admirer was adorned with black
patch in the middle Of his immaculate
shirt front and the semi-friv0lous one
was minus hers
Girdles are all the rage. but they
should be fitted carefully over boned
and yell-cut lining for unless they are
correctly cut and fitted they enlarge and
shorten tie wsi,. atrociously. Knowing
dressmakers have the lower edge of tn
/ soft girdle loose from the fitted lining.
hook the skirt band up from this lining
and hook the lower edge of the soft giry.jg
down TO che skirt, so there can be no
severance of diplomatic relations. The
skirts are ali cut down in curves or sharp
points in front and finished simply with
4 binding. 80 there need be ne bulgiue
fullness NJ the waist line.
The new corset covers are cut off wei
above the waist line and drawn into
beading belt, with wash ribbon, so that
they. too, may avoid all fuilness at the
wais, line and below.
The under petticoats are made on
snlooth-fitting. deep ypkss. curved down
rhn ~
gether the one thing eminently desirable
is jong-pointed waist effect. The Pa
risian artists may rave as they please
about the ''pistpa9e" or fatness OF the
fashionable woman's figure anu the loss
of gracious curves, but the fact remains
that The present mode is forcing woman
into a Nose correct standing position
with chest thrown get tnd back and ali |
donlen in
Few women realize how much the !
hang of their dress skirts is influenced |
by the cut of their petticoats. The av
erage woman buys a ready-made silk pet |
ticoat with IT'S belt shirred on tapes and /
wears il hanging in. awkward and un
graceful folds. Every well-dressed wo-
man should have her petticoats as care
fully fitted Us her gown. 1t is a good |
idea to have a fitted yoke and smooth |
skirt of knee length of some durable ma
terial-bidck satin, for instance-and II
this button deep silk trimmed with
innumerable frou-frou frills. BY hav
ing flounces of different colors this skirt
can serve as the basis for pettieoats o.
various hues. harmonizing with different
gowns.
Skirts are not SO full as was expected
and show effects of sinuous flowing
plaits. rather than of small plaits AMI
tucks as in the summer gowns. Fully
two-thirds of the autumn gowns have
skirts quite plain except for the stitched
seams or bands. They flare slightly at
the bottom, though not SD decidedly as
has been the rule, and they are unques
rionably shorter. The more severe street
skirts barely touch the ground at the
back and even the unpretentious cloth &:
and wool gowns have only a very few
inches of sweep.
lttNSt EUN us anu SONfS loi ti&bDAAtT
occasions still keep their flowing trains,
,ut the genuine walking skirt. clearing
The ground by at least two inches. viii I
be universally worn whenever such gar5
would be appropriate. l.
Altogether the skirt question seems to ,
>e approaching point of common sense {
hat is unprecedented and pessimists who
regard such state of things as too good
% be true shake their heads and prophecy r
hat the weather cock of fashion viii f,
,eer suddenly and show some freakish
breeze of novelty and folly. A few full
skirts are seen, especially with the Di-
-ectoire coats, but only very slender wo-
men have the courage 10 buy them They
IRE usually shirred over the hips or made
with snlooth-ftting yoke.
Old-fashiop Hounces are in fashion
again, not the ruffled shape 10 which we
have become accustomed, but yeritable
full. straight tiounees. which are, how
ever. practicable only in light weight
goods.
Stitching in eolors. on cloth, IS ex L
popular IN Paris and STITCHED
folds of all kinds. are used. Brilliant
shades of heavy silks yellow, turquoise,
the new rouge. etc. are employed upon
cloth in black or natural tints. but white.
black and turquoise stitchinss are all
that seem to win popularity on this side
Of the water.
Pale grey stockings embroidered in sill