The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1900-11-10

VIENNA, Oct. st is no doubt TO be
a blue season, to the delight of our far
Viennese, whose rosy skin and go,den
hair are never better brought out than
in blue gowns. Fashion seems to adj
vocate every shade of blue, from the
dark navy to the dainty cier and bebe
and the bright "royale' to the dull soft
pastelles. A much admired gown is
just completed for the young Countess
Esterhazy, who is an exception which
proves that the long-standing on:ec-
tons of brunettes to blue have been
overcome. OF course, the complexion
must be studied and details of figure
and coloring are carefully entered into
by the dressmaker who would succ ass-
fully clothe his dusky clientele. The
toilet in question fits woman tall.
broad-chested and oad-shouldere
of royal carriage, with the dark hair
/, of an Andalusian and the rosy skin of
the North, and the color is a dark blue
darker than ''royale" and lighter
than "marine"-and the material is a
heavy nuns yelling that looks like
cloth, but falls softer.
The skirt is strictly modern in its
tightness and fiaring length, with a
short train at the back. There is no
ornamentation except two narrow
stitched bias folds of black satin at the
Tha do eli Ut ic 10 in
dependently of taffeta of the s'me
shade of blue and the flare is augment
ed by the wide pleated ruffie below.
Both the upper skirt of wolfe and the
lower of silk close invisibly at the back.
The bodice is as simple as it is ele-
giant, and is made up of blue wolfe over
a tight lining of silk. At the back the
wooden fabric is stretched seamlessly
from one under-arm seam to the 0 Ter,
fitting without Wrinkle and endin.~ at
the waistline with a short point finish
ed with narrow black satin bias strips
stitched in a manner to simulate a
pointed girdle, which extends to deep
er point in front. The silk lining closes
in front and is covered by wide r'as-
iron of silk-lined wolfe beginning in the
shoulder seams and sloping slowly
downward, falling loosely to below the
waistline in 'front.' where it ends in
rounded point. At both sides it appears
to fasten over the chest with tiny gilt
buttons and simulated buttonholes. A
rich yoke covers the shoulders and back
and reaches in a point half way over
the loose plastron in front. 1t is made
of palest blue cloth cut "a jour and
embroidered with gold thread and deli
cately shaded silks. The tight sleeves
of blue wolfe are finished with a deep
cuff that matches the yoke, and there
Is a very small undersleeve of blue
mousseline de sole of the same shade,
the fullness of which is caught in a
finely tucked wristband of the same
mousseline, matching the high stock,
also finely tucked.
A hat completes this stylish and dig
nified costume. 1t has rather a high
crown, entirely covered with tiny folds
of blue mousseline de sole, and the par
row brim is draped with heavy folds OF
darker blue MIRROR velvet, ending at
the left side with a full chou and DOW
of the same.
Another model displays that pale
blue shade which is intended for even
ing wear, and which is set off most ef-
fectively by touches of gold or black
In this case it is both.
The skirt is of pale blue cloth. over an
underskirt of white silk. 1t is fitted
over the hips by means of stitched
tucks, but falls loosely below. The bo-d-
err consists of a rich embroidery cut "a
jour" and outlined with fine gold
thread and tiny gold beads. The upper
skirt is short enough to disclose the
while silk underskirt, which is striped
vertically to the depth of about twenty
centimeters with very narrow black
velvet ribbon. The same motifs are re-
peated in the elaborate bodice which
has also a foundation of white silk COW
cred with a blouse consisting of vest
of white silk striped with black velvet
ribbon and some handsome real point
lace gracefully draped and forming a
collar and jabot which falls over a boz
lero of pale blue cloth bordered with
gold embroidery like that on the skirt
and showing q. narrow band of velvet
striped white silk. The collar is of
black velvet and the tight blue cloth
sleeve reaches to the elbow, and ends
with puff Of white mousseline de sole
fastening with band of velvet striped