The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-04-29


book tourists seldom devote more than
one day to this forgotten capital Of the
Calinhg. and many even take it in be
tween trains, getting only hurried glimpses
OF its crooked streets and splendid Mosque
These make a grave mistake. for there IS
no city in the world TO compare with Cor
dova in romantic and historic interest. One
loses the best Of a Spanish tour by fol-
lowing too closely in beaten paths; be may
get his I'm Of prominent features, but
misses altogether the true spirit Of the
codntry-the mingled SAVIOR Of romance and
antiquity. charming sloth and poetic ras-
cality which distinguishes Spain above any
ether portion OF Europe. Cordoya 5 mani
fold charms Of mellowness and tranquility
grow upon the world wearied traveller un-
iii he finds Il difficult to tear himself
away. For the WORKOUT nerves and tired
brains Of those who have been living the
hich-pressure life Of American cities, IT'S
stiffness and solemnity act like q cooling
poultice on an Inflammation; while the
semi-invalid finds more benefit in the sim
ple food and soft Andalucian air than q
an the nostrums Of the medicos
To be sure. there is a good deal 10 an
nov one here in the slowness with when
the smallest affairs Of everyday are con-
ducted-the universal maxim being never
do today anything that can possibly be
deferred till tomorrow-the "mauana that
never comes Nothing seems to surprise
and disgust these good Cordovaus SO mucn
as the vulgar promptitude and everlasting
hurry of the average Anglo-SaNon one
soon learns that it is no use trying 10
change the customs OF thousand years 70
m those Of New York or Chicago. and that
10 kick against the pricks OF environment
only increases the delay. By far the bet
Ter way is 10 possess ones soul in pa
fience remembering that railway trains,
diliRencias. and muleteers expect TO walt
Indefinitely. and that to keep a business
engagement anywhere near the hour named
is 10 make the inevitable waiting longer
al the other end Of the line.
In ones rambles around Cordovd. be Is
continually coming upon new old OBJ
iects of interest many Of which are not
mentioned in any guide book. To get the
greatest entertainment out Of one day one
should cross the Guadalaquivir early IN
the morning. on the picturesque uTidse
that Octavius Caesar has the credit OF
building. but which is really the work OF
the Caliuhs Of Cordova: spend the not
midday hours in the marble forest OF
the great Mosque, or the cool and odorous
Court Of Oranges. and enjoy an evening
drive or promenade in ore OF the plaHas-
The Cordovese are extremely proud OF
this quaint old bridge-and with abundant
reason for there is not another like II
On the face Of the earth. The arms Of the
citv. "a bridge placed on water refers
10 it, Never was a queerer blending Of
Roman and Arabian styles than It's SIX
teen irregular, buttressed arches, and huge
Moorish gateway leading through a tower
which was once part OF the city walls
the ruins OF Octavius Caesars bridge seGV-
ing as a foundation for the superstructu1e
Of the Caliphs, erected A. D. tlS. At one
end Of it is the gypsy quarter, the haunt
Of robbers. brigands and rascals Of every
grade: at the other. the historic Castle
OF Calahorcs, memorable for its important
part in the siege Of Cordova by Pedro Of
CASTLE. Close by. standing out conspic-
uously 10 the now shallow river, are the
ruins of some Moorish mills, with open
horseshoe arches and time-softened aZue-
los. Just beyond rises a colossal statue Of
St. Raphael the archangel, who is believed
20 be the especial protector Of Cordova.
He assumed the high Office on May Z, 1913.
il a spiritual naturalization 10 an obscure
priest named Andreas Roelas. in cOui Sc
OF which the angel announced his pur-
pose IN these words, which are carved
upon the column: "Yo lie juro por Jesu
Cristo cruzificado. Que SOY Rafael angel,
a qulen Dios tiene puesto por guarda De
este ciudad."
An EARLY Morning Panorama.
Nothing can be more entertaining than
the early morning scenes upon Cordova's
ancient bridge-the huge brown gateway
Of the Arabs as an artistic background for
the groups Of Raudily-dressed peasants
h. has 80 maj mir r7Trr1Ha vghFla
their burdens are being closely examined
by tax-collectors at the city barrier An
equal stream OF mules and drivers flowing
becomes cnugested al the
kicking. struggling, and bray
ing. men women and children shouting,
gesticulauug. swearing. or singing. while
others improve the shining hour Of waiting
with the ever present and always consol-
ing guitar inpromptu olios and fandaugoes
9 accompanying the music. Beggers and Grip
pies are out in force wrapped in their
ragged. snuff -colored cloaks; and lottery
ticket vendors too. as no Spanish scene is
without them. Priests under
shovel hats and monks in CoWls and
hempen girdles pass to and fro; and now
and then some rural knight comes gallop-
ing in. his servant following close and his
faithful SanCho Panza from La Nancha,
which lies Just beyond the nearest range
Of hills. Particularly noticeable as part
Of the varied panorama, are companies Oh
young priests and students from the con
vents, with their flowing black gowns and
broad brimmed black hats. turned up ar
both sides like a sugaT-scoop. Some Of the
students are intent upon their lessons,
coming them aloud even in the streets,
others assuming blase. man-of-t he-world
airs. smoking their cigarettes and chuck
ine pretty peasant girls under he chin
Not least among the sights q Cor5ova
are the firne-rneIIowed walls that surround