davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Washington weekly post., 1900-12-18

satin are the prettiest yet. They are all
bloused In front and are deeply dipped
below the waist line. the bust curve ap-
pearing 10 be at least two inches below
us location in fashions OF a year ago
The back Of waists OF this sort are very
short to countersct the loss OF height
resulting from the very long waist. These
waists are made on tafeta White
eleSnses more satisfactorily than eo'ors
DO and the beauty OF these fancy waists
Is their perfect freshness. There are 10
buttons. Latte ribbons. each tipped with
gold ferrets. tie in front In loose. many
ended bows. BOdices In eolored silks are
similar 10 these In outlines. and are made
very ornate without the exceeding rich
ness OF trimming that appears on the
satin garments An example appears In
the second picture In bodice OF pink
Lansdowne silk. II was trimmed with
lattcework OF black chenille. the sauares
and fronts showing embroidery In white.
Belts are wider, very many of thc
bodice belt type When the folds are
properly disposed these belts are verv be-
coming. They are easier 70 adjust than
is the tiny band that always is ready to
fetch away from .ts appointed place.
Laysr belts are fashionable. too. A wide
underpiece OF p'slne, for instance. il top
ped By lace on which is set a band OF
searl4. with a sold band In its center.
Narrow black appears az either side. This
combination Of scarlet. black, and gold
Is very popular. ana squares-scarlet
mounted with black and centered with
gold-a~e used as ornaments at the foot
OF skirts and along the inside OF jackets
that are To be worn open. Collars have
similar finish.
Coat fashions are fairly well settled.
but tie women who are ever h0t-foot
after something different are having
consideration from designers. as IS shown
by the appearance occasionally Of an odd
ity The artist presents one here, a tan
Melton, box-pleated all around for its
lower portion, and with a layer bolero
for a top White stitching. big pearl but
tons, and lower sleeves Of white panne
velvet were other features. Another new
coat has made considerable headRay.
and takes the name OF an imported play
The Washington weekly post., 1900-12-18

mat most novelties appear. Next 10 the
sHlTt just described Is a new one that had
inverted pleajs at one side. This was
ske'ehei iu oyster-cOlored cloth and gela-
Tine embroidery Beside this IL a sample
OF the layer skirt, i distinct class thai
furnishes many new variations The
soo1s OF this one was black broadclOth
green six outlining Is layers. The layer
a'iahgement OF It's bo.erc and the cut OF
'Lt sk-I al the waist were as novel a.
'Ae olher portion. Two other examples
oi ht" skirts appear Ia the concluding
picture. Iae first had d p.cated nOunce
i1i all bui iis 'front.' breadth and was pals
gray broaic.Jth stitched iu silver an
"-,r"rd with cut steel buttons The
g.AeT had CrapeI OVersklrt aud yyas
FOUND lu brown cheyi0t Happily. dra 81
sE.fis are few. Weighing al the FOO
yiItu is effected by rows OF tucks and
.sa'y stitching. Ofig an elaborate bana
~ STITCHED pdnne vsiget. with sbowiul
=, sili. ls set on between the buuches IN
.L,hs such a band may be applied 10
.Att Tor "a special occasion, matching il
ky.hsps ~ a jacket similarly Trimmed
ssaey waists VI lace-lncrusted white
The Washington weekly post., 1900-12-18

must avoid the collar that Is too high and
two tight. In fact. every man. regardless
or the form OF his chin lines, must be
careful to avoid a choking appearance.
Collars should fit snugly. In fact. 1t is
very bad form 10 have a very large collar
which shows a space between the neck
and the fabric.
Collars, like everything else, are divided
into classes to meet the special require
ments or social functions. With the even
ing suit standing collars are the proper
thing. With the formal day dress one
must also wear a standing collar. Wing
ed collars and high band turned down col
lars are only worn with the dinner jacket,
business suit. and outing apparel
The new collars are made in quarter
sizes. This means that at every quarter
OF an inch you will find size. Until quite
recently collars were only made I'm the
half sizes
For the little fellows" one can find
either waists or shirts. The shirts are not
The Washington weekly post., 1900-12-18

setting in of the sleeve found that it
turned just half around. "The little soft
arms will twist anyway" said she al
last and let it stay. But IL won't work
that way with grown-ups, and many a
bodice well in hand has been turned over
TO a dressmaker to complete just because
OF this difficulty. Sure avoidance comes
from following this simple rule: Place
the inside seam Of the sleeve from an
inch and half to two inches forward OF
the waists under-arm seam. The exact
distance depends on the size OF the wear
er OF the bodice, and as the Dimensions
given are, respectively. for a small and
FOR large woman. it can be determined
very readily. The rule applies generally
from calico TO satin, from infants robe
TO brides gown, and the result will be as
satisfactory as could be gotten from the
highest-priced dressmaker.
The Washington weekly post., 1900-12-18
Seryieeable Connterfeifs.

The great ragged rose-colored chrysan-
themums that are quite fiat on the under
side and very fringy and sprawly on top,
are just the things to set each side of the
top knot of hair for the theater head
dress. This kind of chrysanthemum is very
hardy, and the real flower may be risked
for an evenings wear, though artificial
ones are safer, and, truth to tell look
every bit as well. The great round bios
SONS bigger than a fist &te initiated Won
derfully in cloth and make a handsome
room decoration, but be sure 10 instruct
the maid about them. One woman whose
studio was beautifully decorated with
such chrysanthemums in vases and with
some very handsome and expensive arti-
fetal ferns and palms, overlooked this
point So her maid deluged all with wa
ter every day till destruction overlook
them
The Washington weekly post., 1900-12-18
or Interest
TO 0jOnQen.


The color function OF the pink-tea or
der needn't involve a big bin for caterer
ana decorator. The very coloring fluids
and pAstes that confectioners use may be
30 employed az 10 increase the effects. 10
the astonishment Of the guests. Cream
cheese. for instance. may be made almost
any color without change IN the favor,
and the same is true - mashed potatoes
and whipped cream. With no more than
these three materials for garnishing,
think OF what can be done. Coloring fluid
VIII be drunk up through the stems by
many flowers, their petals changing ac-
eordingly. That will help in table deco
ration. Head cushions TO the dining chairs
10 match the neral color scheme are
an easily managed and not often used
device. These few bare hints will suG-
gest many more TO the hostess VINO begins
scheming
The Washington weekly post., 1900-12-18

combination. with a lot of flowers added
The little pin 10 hold up the back locks
Is still worn. Side locks are sometimes
c0mbod OFT and caught in a buckle. the
end beyond the buckle being drawn into
the coll Side combs are out. Fashion
ables wonder how ever they could have
worn them. While il IS usual 10 wear
some comb or an ornament. the effect
must not be given that ornament or comb
Is necessary 10 holding the nair together.
The tendency Is toward glossy and rO-
mantle locks, and the single rose gains
favor, az do the two Spanish roses worn
one each side OF the head. either at the
temples or low under the ears.
The Washington weekly post., 1900-12-18
laps STUDY IN AMERICA.
From AInsIse,s Magazine.

From Ainslee's Asgszine.
immigration 10 this country from Japaa
has brought a higher class with the labor
ers, and one whose coming is a compli-
ment to our educational system. Eduea-
ton Is relatively haEd 10 get In japan
where wages are so low that a student
cannot AFFORD 10 support himself and 20 10
school. too. But The public schools In
San Francisco and the TWO great uniyer-
Eities at Berkeley and Palo Alto are fr.s
10 them. and ambitious young men OF fhs
upper classes have been glad 10 come n
California. where they could work as ssy1
wants IN private households and hotels
while preparing 10 take their degrees To
such an extent does this practice prevsg
that two years ago IL was estimated thet
there were 500 japanese seeking edtea-
ton in California alone.
Only about ]. 70 were on the whole pa
eific Coast IN 1850 In the next two yea-s
1854 arrived at San Francisco. and faany
more came b. Hay OF Victoria and fhe
northern ports. The arrivals In So
Francisco were 1850 in les. l.s3i IN lisa
il50 IN 1885 50l in 1887. So IN 1875. 81 IN
Is3s, and 2,tsi for the fiscal year jGst end
ed
The Washington weekly post., 1900-12-18
Hints in Beautjfyiug.

A habit of rubbing a little cold cream
about the eyes at night. especially at the
outer corners, is advised as a method OF
keeping away wrinkles. Rubbing with fin
gers just little moist with cold cream
under the chin keeps the throat fresh and
firm Brushing out the eyebrows after
washing will keep them from growing
dull and gray. After the morning bath,
turn the shoulders to the left, and al
the same time the rest OF the torso mot
moving the feet or the knees to the right.
Then reverse this. Take exercise easily
and only do it a few times, but be regu-
lar about it. 1t makes twist at the
waist that positively will keep the waist
curve unmenaced by fat. Breathe deeply
enough all the time to make the ribs
spread.
The Washington weekly post., 1900-12-18
How TO PM that sleeve In.

What home dressmaker hasn't worried
herself almost into nervous prostration
over setting the sleeves into a bodice?
The pesky thing wouldn't come right. II
II drew too tightly over the arms at the
first attempt. IL twisted all out Of shape
when labOriously taken out and put IN
again. so that wearer would have 10 turn
herself into human corkserew to get
into II. II the latter defect developed
first. the other followed with a sureness
and regularity unbeautifully suggestive
Of clockwork. There was the young
mother who experienced this trouble In
an infants robe. and who on the third
The Washington weekly post., 1900-12-18
Could Not Help stealing.

From the Chicago ChrOnicis.
Col. Jack ChinH. the famous Ken
lucky horseman and politician, is well
known TO many in Chicago. who Will APP
preciate the story he recently told OF a
man who could not help stealing a sorrel
mare and who willed her to another con-
Wet when he Gied In prison
This fellow the colonel says. must
have been in love with that mare. The
first time he stole her Was In Christian
County. He was caught and sent 90
prison for five years aud the mare re-
turned 70 her owner. Nc sooae: was the
The Washington weekly post., 1900-12-18
Csysrea Besk, wish U..eu Jaek.

Madrid. Dee. H-In the Senate to-day
The government was questioned regard
ing curious incident AZ Barcelona. where
the police visited printing once to seize
noss!. written By priest. bbelsng the
ecclesiastical authorities The printer re-
fused 70 hand The books over. covering
them with the British nag. and claiming
the protection OF the British ANITA ssaior
IN Madrid. and Of the British consul in
Barcelona. AZ he was an Engllshman
the police withdrew. but stationed 4 guard
a. the door o! The printing o;flcs.
The Washington weekly post., 1900-12-18
Abaut ColOPad shiPfs.

Since the colored shirts came In we have
drawn our best supplies from Scotland.
The Scotch are the best weavers and dyers
OF cotton goods in the world. although
the strides made by the American weavers
of shirtings have been wonderful. and i'm
the last few years shirtings have been
turned out from our domestic looms which
compare favorably in every respect with
those from Bonnie Scotland
There are two kinds OF colored shirtings.
One is the printed and the other Is the
The Washington weekly post., 1900-12-18

man released from prison than he stole
the mare second time Agaia he Was
- NJ 10 prisoa- The mare was getting old
ana because she had lost some Of her in
years sentence, lie Nas no sooner out OF
TIE peniisntiary the second time than he
again stole the mare. then an old bony
thtnS hardly worth a bale of hay lie
was caught the third time and sent ~
for sis years
Lat winter the prisoner fell under a
wagol and Mas crushed. While he lay
Dying he called his fellow -convicts about
him and wtiied the mare 10 the FIRST man
who get free. Go commander her. ons
Of you fellows. the dying man said.
She's gettin' old. but she's the sorrei
mare, for all that
The Washington weekly post., 1900-12-18


a iaunty Jacket The women who take
delight In the unusual comfort and free
dom afforded by the ankle skirt should
look sharp lest they lose il. A good share
or the women who wear IL now do 50
merely because the fashions indorse T.
and WIZ drop Il quickly IL the tide seIs
the other way, That il is sure 10 do in
some degree so soon as the present length
OF drsssy skirts is lessened When fash
ionable support OF the ankle skirt Is TAX
en away its Wearers will look Ike dress
reformers or strong-minded women. and
that isn't what the average present wear
or wants 10 seem 10 be. Something should
be done, and can be done, TO avoid its
present depressing uniformity. It's a pity
that something can't be done 10 keen over
plump women out of 1t. Freakish shifts
Of styles should not be permitted TO over
throw IT, but as now made il is far from
hFuinerable despite the enthusiasm o:
many OF its wearers. Something should
De done to liven il up a bit, IL nothing
more 10 get away from the everIas.irg
oxford gray and monotony of its pleatinss
al the back
What may be fairly considered a warn
ING Of this need is the appearance Of
cloth dresses made on tho walking plan.
hnt with long skirts. These are being
worn Tor matinee. morning picture views.
informal luncheons, ard for automobile
wear Bands OF baby lamb are among the
handsome trimmings, and a gown OF dark
green cloth so trimmed. a little edge of
gold showing under the fur. is very
SWagger. There are undersleeves Of fur
Ihese undersleeves are very fashionable
lhey come 10 match collarette and murf
are single or double pulled. strap close At
the wrist, often with a ieweled buckle
and give coy look to a dress that
really is Of light weight. This notion al
ready has advanced beyond expression
solely In such costly models. which indi-
cdtes that II is making headway. Not so
Ileh as the baby lamb bands. but as
slyhsh' and. of course, far less expen-
sNe' are stitched bands OF cloth. Color
contrasts usually appear in such trim
ihIhss. An example is pictured beside to-
ddys lnitial-a green lady's cloth banded.
with cream cloth stitched In red.
The long skirt continues 10 keen a new
side outside. One Of its new forms has
tfont gore and circular sides, the latter
Iald IN lille pleatings that extend 10 the
Ddck. where there is an inverted pleat
Ihe front Is plain, and at the bottom of
the front gore on each side is an inverted
pleat. This idea OF inverted pleats at the
foot Of skirt is much liked, because with
OUT interfering with the upper closeness
OF the skirt, il adds 10 the flare az The
foot. That fare Is obtainable. of course.
in the simpler form that appears at the
left IN the next picture but entirely plain
skirts OF this general character are be-
coming fewer. Only a little trimming is
needed 10 meet this development EN-
br0idery Of gilt braid and floss was all
that was put on pastel blue cloth In the
pictured example. Blu, il is in the cut
The Washington weekly post., 1900-12-18

a. popular or as serviceable as the waist.
This Is because they call for suspendeSz.
ana the fond mamma has no desire - Pot
suspenders on her boz until tie very age
limit for things lnfantile has been reach
ef. Boys waists are now made With
pieated fronts and with regular bosom
fronts. They reAmble Ia material and in
style the shirts made for the big man
lColyTiEhI. ise9. b. l9selh ". Gih.aa conssnIl /
The Washington weekly post., 1900-12-18
DISLIKE ANKLE SKIRTS
Fashion Leaders Trying to
Make Them Prettier.
rOyGER WALKING GOWNS NOW

rs,,,. 10 Ayeid Its Present Deeressins
Y.iforw,ty Stout Women should Never
Wear Them-Cioth Dresses Made on the
u,isIss PIan. but with Long skirts
.,rikIss Csior Contrasts ia Trimmings
...se.,isE- Tor the Makins of skirts.
The Washington weekly post., 1900-12-18
sreaing TO hi. PencLanr.

From the Cleveland Plain Dealer
What's become OF that boy who had
such a talent for machinery?
He was arrested the other day for run
ming a divorce mill
The Washington weekly post., 1900-12-18

New York, Dec. Il.
ASIIIONS favor te
ankle skirt great .
and It is being worn
a deal Some Of the
liking for II is due
20 the fact that
other skirts are 80
long. and many o.
them heavy with
pieating and kindred
Celebrations. TIE
ankle skirt serves
for outing and for
shopping. and is the
accepted business
fir. With IL are
worn a shirt waist
o. flannel. gentle
manly neckwear. a
severe hat. and a
Jacket either match
ing the skirt, or OF
Melton i'm contrast.
Costumes are seen
in which the short
skirt matches a half
length coat, but
these are not many
because the short
ELrfr4 - LITE -
The Washington weekly post., 1900-12-18
Toe PYssiss..

Prem the Atlanta cons,itasios.
You say you CONS ter spsn' thris'mua
bat you's three weeks ahead er .lfnes..
Il know dat. BrSr Williams. but is ds-
sny harm In 4 man sistla' ellmlsiSs1r'
The Washington weekly post., 1900-12-18
Too Mach.

From the Atlanta Constitution.
We have received a pamphlet entitled
The Devil on a High Horse" tie has
never had the temerity 70 's--'i~ the
Georgia mule.
The Washington weekly post., 1900-12-18

the crowds into which their mothers drag
them? Thank gooGnessl gentle mother Is
safe in literature. else one would dread TO
take walks abroad.
The Washington weekly post., 1900-12-18
SHIRT, CUFFS, COLLARS
Pointers for Men Who Are in
Doubt About Apparel.
COLLARS MADE TO FIT THE FACE

Neyeiry In the Cut Of Shirts Intendea for
so-caIied ''Coat shirt" Which Opess in
Front-tafIs aud Their Fsrms-W hat the
Modes Are for the Lille Felisws-The
Best Weaves for Col0red shirts.
The Washington weekly post., 1900-12-18

e.0Tyior xhIshs,, sis lerd msdlrinai .,ImuIanss
The Durham recorder. [volume] (Durham, N.C.) 1879-19??, 1900-04-16

many lines of goods handled by him a.
the very reasonable prices he sells at,
have placed him easily in the front rank
of general merchant, and he leads all
other firms in the same line, not only in
Durham, but in the State as easily.
In his commodious storerooms are to
be found an endless variety of goods To
enumerate what he does not keep In
stock, were an easy job in comparison to
the task of naming separately the various
articles he handles. His goods are all of
modern design, else we would be tempted
to term it Noah's Ark, so varied is his
stock.
Mr. Smiths cordial and pleasing man
ners, his thorough knowledge of his
business, his hoL orable dealings and mis-
low priced gonds are the factors that
recommend him \ the people of Durham
and have scared for him merited sue
ress
The Durham recorder. [volume] (Durham, N.C.) 1879-19??, 1900-04-16
DURHAM MARBLE WORKS.
Recognized as Leaders i'm Their
Profession.

Continuously and steadily do the trade,
manufacturers and every enterprise of
Durham go on increasing, expanding and
multiplying, bringing new triumphs to
our merchants, comforting new honors
upon our manufacturers and bestowing
new elements of prosperity upon the en-
tire community.
The employment of corps of carefully
selected and skilled artisans enables this
firm TO manufacture In marble elaborate
original designs as we'll as plain kinds,
and their equipment for handling the
heaviest monumental works is complete
There may be seen at this yard hand
some display of finished work while in
our cemeteries the beautiful touch of
their workmanship is very generally In
evidence, showing that at home, as else
where, they are recognized as leaders in
their profession.
Much of their notable work should be
mentioned here, but want of space pre-
vents Wherever this work Is introduced
it meets the highest praise and invariably
secures other orders. This is their best
recommendation.
The Durham recorder. [volume] (Durham, N.C.) 1879-19??, 1900-04-16

example Of intelligent enterprise but 1t Is
one whom methods have lead to success
that reflects its own credit and that of
the name and commercial fame of Dur
ham
This is one of the finest emporiums of
the kind In the city, one that is as n
trail and prominent In location as il is
extensive and elegantly fitted mp. 1t is
recognized as headquarters for all food
products, and the stock Is notable for ex.
tent, care in selection aid celebrity Of
brands handled 1t is a model grocery
store and its special features and general
management make it leader In its line.
Mr.. Proctor Is one of the public spirited
business man In whose hands the cons
tinued development of the city rests
The Durham recorder. [volume] (Durham, N.C.) 1879-19??, 1900-04-16
HAYWOOD n KING.
Two of Our Leading Druggists of
Durham.

Durham.
The industrial life of Durham Is marked
by diversity Of well.distribnted indus
tries and interest which is truly metro
politan
In this review there are few business
houses more worthy of nentior for the
popu arity they have gained than Messrs
Haywood & King, druggists, located al
the corner of Mangum and Parrish
streets
A special feature is made of the care
full and accurate compromising of pre-
scriptions, which is done ouly by the
most pains taking, experienced and skill
ed pharmacists and with the purest and
freshet drugs obtainable. Both the pro-
prietors are registered pharmacists and
of life long experience in the drug bust
mes
In connection with large 81, OK OF
druggists sundries, perfumes, soaps, toilet
articles Of the --latest style and best quail.
ity, they carry a line OF the choicest
brands of cigars, chewing tobacco, etc,
all of which are noted for their excellency
and the ress' nable prices at which they
are sold
A special branch of Their business Ia
that devoted to the handling Of garden,
flower snd grass seeds. They handle be
seeds of two of the largest and most re.
liable seedmen In the whole country
those of Buist, of Philadelphia, and
Woods & Sons, of Richmond, Va, whose
seeds are recognized by truckers and
gardeners everywhere as icing entirely
reliable In every particular In buying
Of them you make no mistake
The Durham recorder. [volume] (Durham, N.C.) 1879-19??, 1900-04-16
Ii. w. HOBGOOD
One of Durham's Euterp Using
Merchants.


Durham is in all respects a modern and
model city. and on every hand are to be
seen evidences of progress built upon
modern ideas Of neatness and order. No
honse In the city is more thoroughly
representative o. these essentials and
possessed Of more intelligently directed
enterprise than that Of Mr.. B. w. Hob
good. This Is one of the finest empori
ums Of the kind In the city. 1t is recog.
nized headquarters for the choicest food
products. The stock Is notable for care
10 selection and celebrity of brands
Specisliies are made of fine teas and
coffees, choice creamery and dairy butter.
The house numbers among ia patrons
the leading families of the city Il Is the
model grocery store, aud its special
features Of neatness and order makes its
management leader 10 lis line.
Besides full line of groceries. special
attention Is given TO the shoe department