davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Press., 1900-09-13

1t is probable that the earliest SUM-
dial was simply the spear of some no.
mad chief stuck upright in the ground
before his tent Among those desert
wanderers, keen to observe their sur
roundings, it would not be a difficult
thing to- notice that the shadow short
ened as the sun rose higher in the sky
and that the shortened shadow always
pointed in the same direction-north.
The recognition would have followed
very soon that this monday shadow
changed in it's length from day to day.
A six foot spear would give shadow
at monday in latitude 40 degrees of II
feet at one time Of the year, of less
than two feet at another.
This instrument, so simple, so easily
carried, so easily set up, may well have
begun the scientific study of astrono-
my, for it lent itself to measurement,
and science is measurement. and prob
ably we see it expressed in permanent
form in the obelisks of Egyptian solar
temples, though these no doubt were
retained merely as solar emblems ages
after their use as actual instruments
of observation had ceased. An upright
stick carefully plumbed standing on
some level surface may therefore well
make the first advance upon the natu-
raj horizon. A knob at the top of the
stick will be found to render the shad
ow more easily observed.-E. Walter
Maunder in knowledge.
The Disputed Name of the War.
The Confederate Veterans, in their
annual convention in Louisville, decid-
ed that the war of 1865 should be
states" This is the name that Alexan-
der FL. Stephens favored, and it is the
one generally used by the people Of the
south in speaking of that war, the
northern people calling 1t the rebellion.
Strange it is that neither name is cor
rect definition of the event. All know
that there was no rebellion. States that
had sovereignty could not be guilty Of
rebellion. Neither was it war be-
tween the states, but actually a war
between two governments made up of
states Some writer's call 1t a civil war,
yet it was not a war between citizens
in their civil capacity, but, as before
said. a war between regularly organ
lied governments. There Is, in fact, no
concise way OF naming the conflict;
hence these misnomers. Possibly the
calling it by the years of it's beginning
and close-namely. the war Of 1861-5.-
Mobile Register.
The Press., 1900-09-13

The progressive nations OF the world
are the great food consuming nations.
Good food we'll digested gives strength.
If you cannot digest all you eat, you need
Kodel Dyspepsia Cure. 1t digests what
you eat. You need not diet yourself 1t
contains all of the digestants combined
with the best tonics and reconstructives.
1t will even digest all classes of foods In
bottle. No other preparation will do
this. 1t instantly relieves and quickly
cures all stomach troubles. W.D. Head.
The Press., 1900-09-13

Why Wigwag RejOiced.
Mr.. Wigwag-Did the new carpet ar
rive all right?
Mrs. Wigwag-Yes; it came intact.
Mr.. Wigwag-Hooray! Hip! Hip!
That let's me out!
Mrs Wigwag-Wh in the world are
you talking about?
Mr. Wigwag-Why, didn't you say 1t
came in tacked?-Philadelp Record.
The Press., 1900-09-13
THIRTY YEARS AGO.
Sept. 10, 1870.

items OF local interest taken from the columns
of The Press, thirty years ago-l
The Press., 1900-09-13

Large sun spots, the astronomers say,
caused the extreme heat this summer,
and doctors declare nearly all the pros
trations were induced by disorders of the
stomach. Good health follows good d.
gestion. Kodol Dyspepsia Cure digests
what you eat. II you have indigestion or
dyspepsia it will quickly relieve and per-
manently cure. w. d. Head.
The Press., 1900-09-13
STATE OF OHIO, CITY OF TOLEDO :.
I.JJCAs COTTNTV %.

LUCAS COUNTY, 90
FRANK j. CHENEY makes oath that he is the
senior partner Of tile firm OF f. j. CHENEY & Co,
doing business in the City of Toledo, County and
state Aforesaid, and that said firm will pay the
sum OF ONE HUNDRED DOLLARS for each and
every case OF Catarrh that cannot be cured by
the use OF HALLS CATARRH CURE.
FRANK j. CHENEY
Sworn to before me and subscribed In my
presence, this 9th day OF December, A. ID. 1886,
Jspu A. W. GLEASON,
Notary Public.
Halls Catarrh Cure is taken internally and acts
directly on the blood and mucous surfaces of the
system. Send for testimonials free.
- Sold by Druggists, 75c.
Halls Family FILLS are the best. 3-ll
The Press., 1900-09-13
Unnatural History,

Zinc and Grinding make
Devoe Lead and Zinc Paint wear twice az
The Press., 1900-09-13
THE GREAT FAMINE,

ARE speaker one n early the
vh
tn Ell OIL The geem raure
its l degees degrees sand the
its gr b n strong ak all
n i FRO ground disappear cattle faish dpeopep
The Press., 1900-09-13

Der and November. The rains have come
three weeks late. and, with their cattle
dead and they themselves enfeebled by
hunger, the small farmers cannot prop
erly prepare the soil. That necessitates
poor harvests, and that necessitates re-
lief. not only until those inferior harvests
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-09-15

pretty actress. Wolfe. lace and chiffon are
the fabrics used in it's making. The wide
Algerian sleeves, with wide, turned-over
cuff. like that upon a kimonO, fall back
over a deep pulled undersleeve of white
chiffon gathered upon a lace band. The
blouse effect given by the upper part of the
gown is cleverly effected by the insertion
from the shoulders to the waist of point
ed application of lace. When the sash is
tied around the gown at the waist line the
lace falls over the girdle in full folds that
give it the appearance of being a separate
blouse and skirt. In the back the vatican
plat from shoulder to skirt suggests the
remark that a good deal of will be
made this winter of vatican dress effects.
Short Jackets Again.
Jackets will be short, with the mere sug-
gestion of a basque for autumn use. The
long coats have not yet seen the end Of
their career. softening touch is given to
some of the light cloth three-quarter coats
by the use Of chou and sash ends of chf-
fon applied at one or both sides of the
coat. In cases where the trimming is used
on both sides of the jacket a chiffon band
gracefully outlines the waist in the back,
where it is sometimes clasped by a buckle
of cut steel pearl.
CATHERINE TALBOT.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-09-15

The Louis XIV sleeves are not popular
with the average person. They leap to the
eye, as the saying goes, too quickly, and
consequently become an aggressive item.
Furthermore, they tend to cut up the en-
tire figure in the strangest and most unac-
countable way. None but the tall and slim
are in any sort justified in considering
them.
Nor is the sleeve pagode conducting itself
by any means well as one could wish.
Familiarity, strangely enough has not in
this case bred perfection. There is an ip-
ffnity of variations. and yet nine out OF
ten lack the requisite touch of excellence.
Some women are essaying quite a long and
bell-shaped sleeve that comes quite to the
wrist and only reveals by some chance
movement the existence of a band sleeve
let beneath-a daring departure enough
There is great need for new designs, as
the sleeve is the making marring of a
gown.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-09-15

panion. in green. shows stitchings in black
on her little skirt that is picked out In wee
rings of the same, while vest and frill
OF cherry red silk ornaments her bodice.
Very shaggy and satin-finished cloths
promise to struggle for the supremacy
later on. The needles are flying just now
about mfd-season suits Of handsome Eng
lish etamine woven in heavier quality than
We have ever seen before. This particular
cloth is set off to perfection by narrow
bands of stitched smooth-faced goods and
stitched folds of silk. of which women have
not yet tired. Dark blue and green and
bronze brown Examines. which hand
some black silk passamenterie is appliqued
in panels Is the most modish idea the
autumn has yet brought forth for calling
and house gowns, and. prophetic forecast
ings of styles to the contrary, evidently
Will continue to wear skirts cut for nc
fullness about the hips and belt, but an exc
travagant spread of goods about the feet.
The Fichu Effects.
Over and over again in the models that
dressmakers are receiving from the other
side do the fichu effect repeated.
This has led not few president souls into
false conclusions and assertions anent the
revival of shawl wearing. Indeed the flu
ture holds such trial in store for US, but
the gowns are exceedingly pretty with their
various shoulder draperies that cross the
back with deftly placed folds and flow
over the shoulders, to cast discreet and
necessary cap upon the sleeves. while the
ends of the fichu capable of an infinite
number of charming and valuable arrange
ments in front. Plainly, this shawl-like
drapery is the resuscitation of a contem-
porary of the under sleeve, which, by the
way. like the star spangled banner, will
long and triumphantly continue to wave its
luxuriant folds about the tapering FORE
arms of well-dressed womenkind.
Among those etamine gowns referred to
this feature Is most conspicuously in evi~
dence. The cloth sleeve opens out at the
elbow in a Gala lily shape, or fastens firm
ly with a turn-back cuff, and from this
point down to the wrist extends lawn UNI
dersleeve Of white swiss, crimped with
countless overlapping frills of cream VAL
enciennes lace. Another popular arrange
ment, with handsome reception gowns OF
dark cloth are sleeves made wholly OF
cream white silk muslin, closely accordion
p.eated to fit the arm The lining for these
is one thin skin of chiffon, fitting the arm
snugly. and this covering extends from
shoulder to wrist. Upon this fragile and
lovely dressing goes the large dress sleeve
of cloth that is not closed on the inside
seam save with few tiny jeweled links.
so that at every motion of the arm the
feathery lining shows to great advantage.
MARY DEAN.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-09-15
H 0 u S EHOLD HINT S

The cucumber Juice or cream is one of
softening. Unlike some other lotions, it
does not cover up defects, but restores the
skin to healthy action. 1t has been scien-
tiffcally demonstrated that the cucumber is
considerably cooler than the surrounding
atmosphere, that "cool as cucumber
is a most apropos comparison. Its efficacy
in cases of sunburn and affections of the
skin is doubtless due to this cool quality
In making this balm at homeland it can
be made at a tenth of its cost at the drug
gist's-procure the best almond oil for its
foundation. For two large, almost ripe
cuCumberS use four ounces of almond oil
and half an ounce each of spermaceti and
white wax. Fut these ingredients into a
cup and set in basin of boiling water. AS
soon as the wax and spermaceti blend with
the almond oil to form uniform mass place
the cup the back of the range. Peel the
cucumbers, which should not be too yell
low, but just on the verge of turning. Chop
them fine, squeeze out the juice with
towel and mix with the other ingredients
To add to its dainty appearance color with
a few drops Of spinach juice to just a pale
sea green. Pour the cream while still warm
into emptied egg shells little porcelain
Jars of fine material and set in pan of
cold water to harden. Wash the skin thor
oughly at night before applying the cream.
and then rub the cream gently into the
skin. In the morning wash off with warm
water, following with a dash of cold water
to make the tissues firm.
While the small pickle cucumbers are
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-09-15

ployed in their construction are very ex-
pensive, and, If ordered to be made in the
usual way, cost a great deal of money on
account of the high prices that have to be
paid by the dressmakers for skilled ma
chinists and embroideresses.
The demand for fine needlework and ar
tistic silk embroidery for decorating the
fronts and collars of blouse bodices Is I'M
precedented. Real lace forms the upper
half of some of the most expensive blouses,
and the yokeS are worn next to the skin,
namely, without foundation of any kind.
The effect is very beautiful and more suit
able than leaving the throat and shoulders
exposed Beloy the fullness of the figure
the silk crepe de chine is gathered up
into narrow tucks, and some of them are
so fine that it makes one wonder how hands
and eyesight could be so accurate as to
turn out such stitching and so regularly
gauge the space between each tiny fold.
Satin merv and china silks can now be
purchased already plated and tucked, or
the material might be bought in the usual
way and the plating or the embroidery
could be done for small outlay at almost
any sewing machine shop. BY this means
a stylsh-looking blouse can be acquired
by any one who has the time to spare and
the inclination to make it herself, as the
construction of the blouse is very simple
matter,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-09-15

silk of the shade that matches the skirt.
The upper half of this little suit is an ex-
tremely short-waiSted bolerO slipped upon
skirt Of grayish blue silk, prettily stitch
ed to accord with the treatment of the
skirt. Atop of it all goes hat of stitched
blue cloth, crowned with masses of vel
vet dahlias. ranging in color from the pal
est ash-gray to the deepest purplish-blue.
Artfully made velvet dahlias, chrysanthe-
NUNS and rusty red, deep violet and gray
green roses are, in Paris, sprouting in lib
eral wreaths and bouquets on every new
hat, and the school girls are merely a few
weeks ahead of their elders in wearing
them that is all.
Pretty and Useful Model.
A pretty and typical figure is that Of
the miss in plaids and bolero, who, with
her books and her busy air, her short skirt
and braided hair, plainly indicates that get
ting an education is just now her one OBJ
ject in life Her suit is an admirable text
in green from which to preach a forcible
sermon on the virtues and Importance of
this color for winter gowns. Green with d
bright note of red in it is, we hear, echoed
from the dTeSsmaking establishments the
very incest idea for very modern winter
suit. Clear dark green crossed on gray
green bands upon gray groundwork is
the combination in this girls suit. Her
flannel skirt matches the gray-green stripes
of her skirt, her coat accords in tone with
the broad dark green bands, and upon her
shoulders a collar of green silk turns back,
edged with a frill of clear crimson silk
and prettily embroidered in knots and
wheels of the same bright color.
The French Length Skirt.
Smaller girls, is BETTING, lean to more
Independent and strictly juvenile ideas in
dress than their longer-skirted sisters, but
plaid woods and full skirts have with them
almost as far-reaching an influence. There
is sensible tendency to cut little girls
skirts to the French length for juveniles:
that is, just below the knee, and in cold
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-09-15

still at their best try this method of put.
ting them up for winter, and you will neve,
try any other. Crisp delicate. mellow, these
relishes are the very anthithesis Of the
giant "cowcumber pickles. beloved Of Sairy
Camp or the corner grocer. where size and
acidity carry the day. To 300 medium-sized
cucumbers-none over two and q half inches
In length-allow one coffee cup of salt
Wash the cucumbers thoroughly and pack
In stone jar with salt between the layers
Have ready teakettle Of boiling water and
cover the pickles. Let them stand twenty
four hours, pour off the water and wipe
the pickles dry. Put in a porcelain kettle q
scant gallon Of good cider vinegar, a full
coffee cup of sugar. two small red peppers
chopped hne but emitting all the seeds ex-
cepting two or three; a teaspoonful Of alum
and three tablespoonfuls of white mustard
seed. Bring to good scald and pour over
the pickles. Pack in glass cans or eartI1eu
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-09-15

too, are showing woven lace collars and
jackets, as we'll as all-over pieces, so that
It looks as though, with little alteration,
last seasons lace gowns may be creditably
made to do service for another year.
Skirt Shapes Unchanged.
There seems to be little prospect of a
radical change in the shape of skirts until
spring. 1t is authoritatively stated that the
round skirt. just touching the ground. will
be introduced. The skirt of 1880 style seems
to be favored by Americans 1t Is quite
long and shaped to the figure, with a plait-
ing or scarcely noticeable drapery over the
hips and the suggestion Of a box plat in
the back. 1t has the seam down the front
and on most figures looks very WELL
For indoor wear nothing could be more
charming than the tea gown just completed
by one of the great dressmakers for q very
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-09-15

gowns the colored, fancy gilet is about the
only touch of color possible. and on 1t
dressmakers look for many of their finest
effects this year. Lace fronts are not like
ly to be much used with the tailored
gowns. Revers ard collars are lower in
the 'front.' but cut higher in the back.
Separate Houses.
Even the separate blouses are being made
with the bolero effects. as was illustrate ed
by one which l noticed yesterday in the
Rue de la Paix. 1t was of silk. the bolero
bordered with a narrow gold braid, which
was also outlined on the rounded revers.
The Underbodice was of plated silk, the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-09-15

sleeves being plain except for a group of
tucking just below the shoulder. A row Of
round buttons closed the front of the
blouse and We're spTinkled in groups of two
on revers and collar. The latter was a
plated affair, very high, as are many of
the new collars, and was supplied with side
turned over pieces, trimmed with braid and
buttons
There is no question but laces will be
much worn both during the fall and the
winter. Those who have laid in a good
supply of these beautiful trimmings from
the bargain sales should therefore be hap
Ply. LuXeuil. Irish and Cluny are expected
to hold leading places. but nothing which
is pretty will be at all amiss. The shops
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-09-15
FOR SCHOOL GIRLS
Fashions for Every Day and Sunday
Best Costumes.
SCOTCH CR0FTER CLOTHS In FAVOR
The Fichu Does Not Mean a Re-
vivaI of the Shawl.
THE OCTOBER PLAID S
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.

Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
NEW YORK, September 13, 1900.
1t is a case of the old love forgotten for
the sake of the newest charmer who comes
In the guise of most interesting autumn
fabrics and fashions Bewitchingly pretty
shirt waists Of lawn, bolts Of the finest
organdie and bargains galore in white
pique petticoats, go a begging at counters
where lately their admirers swarmed In
lines three deep. Everybody is struggling
to be waited on IN aisles where wooden
goods and felt shapes and October
ideas in gloves prevail, and the mothers of
daughters predominant in the rush of early
shoppers.
The demands of the school girl must be
first looked to, and kindergarten six and
sweet sixteen are such modish creatures
these days, so thoroughly au courrant with
the fashion that the mothers are obliged to
look alive. or like not the short-skirted
autocrats will turn the purchases back on
the parental hands. Most of the discreet
mammas invite their small daughters out
on these shopping excursions and permit
the precocious feminine eye and taste to
develop all its native born talent for color
and FORM
Sweet Sixteen Likes PIaids.
This autumn the school girls, to use their
own expression, are rather gone on
plaids, and they like the richly tinted
Scotch cloths in no more than three colors
at most. The girls whose skirts reach their
shoe tops have adopted skirts of plaid wool
with waists of solid color, and in juvenile
circles there Is demand for boleros and
Eton waists.
What the smart junior class students are
wearing is pretty clearly demonstrated in
the group of slim young ladies carrying
shining faces to the opening exercises. The
one to the left wears a skirt of CrofterS
CLOTH smoke gray IN tone, striped in lines
of brown, but brown of SO warm a tone
that 1t is nearly red, and is supposed to re-
semble the dry .bracken fern of a Scotch
moor. The waist is gray, with cuffs and
collar and belt Of brown. edged with bands
of gray stitched in brown. The front of
the waist is a vest Of gray corded silk,
repeatedly stitched in brown, and the hat
is felt of dry bracken color, adorned with
a big gilt buckle a crown band of brown
velvet and two artificial long plumes made
of short, curly gray ibis feathers fixed to
spines, like those of ostrich plumes.
This girl wears gray CATERS over her
black enamel leather walking shoes, a
fashion that seems confined just now to
school girls, but none the less does it prom
Use to become a widespread habit among
their elders during this autumn and next
winter
The companion to this pretty student
is a young lady in French broadcloth of
rich Persian blue, color that has had
great popularity and promises to be none
the less worn in the new season Here
the severely plain skirt is relieved by tail
ored bands of gray blue cloth, stitched with
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-09-15
Autumn Novelties

From Harper's Bazaar.
Wide, folded belts of satin orr panne vel
vet are still fashionable, and are on many
Of the gowns now being sdesigned for the
autumn. They are not easy to- make, and
require to be carefully fitted. The only
time when they are possible for short
waisted person is when they are worn un-
der bolero jacket. A smart gown In light
blue cloth that has just been made up for-
tunately for long WASTED, slender wo-
mani has one of these belts in black satin
that is nearly a quarter Of q yard WIDE
Small watch charms or bracelet charms
are now quite fad with smartly gowned
women, quite a cluster Of them being seen
on bracelets or watch chains. Some of
these charms are Of stones, like topazes
and amethysts, and there are many set in
heart shape or points, with a thread Of gold
around them, or with what looks like a
shank OF closely set brilliants.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-09-15

weather to protect the shapely legs with
extra heavy hose. The very young women
in the accompanying sketch give an excel
lent impression of the simplicity that is
sure to prevail in the wardrobes of six and
nine-year-olds. The child in the blue and
red plaid suit boasts only a few dark red
velvet bands and a frill of blue silk on heI
collar by way of decoration. and her COM
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-09-15
The Latest in BIOusea.

In spite of rumors Of the early part OF
the season, blouses of every kind are more
popular than ever. During the earlier part
of the day they are Of the simplest char
acter, but for afternoon or evening wear
1T is just the contrary, as the materials enc
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-09-15
The Popular BOIerO.

Boleros in all materials will be the height
of fashion throughout the winter. The news
est fasten in front with long scarfs tied in
loose bows.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-09-15

To keep meat fresh in hot weather cover
1t over with bran and hang 1t In a current
Of air.
Juniata sentinel and Republican. [volume] (Mifflintown, Juniata County, Pa.) 1873-1955, 1900-05-02
WEsTW ARD.

Trains Nos. and 8 connect at Blair's
Mills with Concord, Doyiesburg Dry Run,
Eossvilc, Nicely ton, Shade Gap. Shade
Valley and Goshorp Station Stage Lines.