The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-10-21
NEW SCHOOL OF BEAUTY
Fashion Has RECONSTRUCTED the
Female Form Divine.
The stylish Figure of Today Is Fenr-
fully and Wonderfully Made-Thc
Hoopskirt Scare Is mt an End.
skirts Are still Gracefully Trou-
biexome-Triumph of the BolerO.

bierome-Triumph of the BolerO.
What would Hogarth have to say of the
woman of 1900?
As we have Louis XIV evening gowns 1t
is only meet that we should wear Pom
padour corsets. and very dainty and trim
they are with their straight front, very
much incurved back and charmingly pref
~ silk and lowered coutille coverings.
The hips did not need to be tightly drawn
in to make them appear narrower than
they were in the days of hoops and pam
niers. The wais; was very small and
the bodice severely plain in front, as a
rule, although adorable little Vatican
coats were worn with many of the dress
est The Louis XIV corset of today has
more hips than the very short stays the
slender woman has been revealing in for
the past two years, but the idea is to
give length and slenderness to the waist
rather than to make the hips look small.
According to the new school of beauty
culturists in Paris the woman whose fig
ure is good has practically no hips, and
bald and unbcautiful as II may sound in
cold print, she is supposed Furthermore
to be like that mysterious boarder Of Mrs.
Tibbs Boz), who had no stomach" This
last popularity of the newly constructed
female form divine accounts for the long
aud upyielding fronts to all the Louis XIV
corsets. The top of the corset is from
four to six inches higher than the top
of the corset most popular last season.
But 1t tends to breadth and tapering
grace, and its lines suggest gentle decis-
ion, not restraint or stiffness.
Last season the empire belt, fantastic
arrangement that seemed to consider it
self a sorset, was worn with much COM
fort by many women whose figures needed
only gentle persuasion al the waist line
to make them quite perfect for the fully
style of frock in vogue. This season the
empire corset, to wear with empire
gowns, appears, and 1t is just about the
size ,of the empire belt, but of quite
different shape. The empire belt had no
top and no bottom. 1t was a piece Of the
centre of normal corset. The empire
corset is merely a top, fastens with three
CT four hooks and merely serves to make
the little boleros and coats, SO much worn
with empire gowns, set we'll. The waist
is quite urconfined. The anti-lacing adj
vocates should adopt this wee corset as
crest and a symbol.
Fancy fichus of lace and mousseline,
with dangling ends in front, trim the top
of the new corset, when said corset is to
be worn by a slender woman who can af-
ford to stand these fills. Tiny bows of
baby velvet ribbon, set in rows over the
hooks down the front of the corset. are
fanc;ful idea, and on a corset Of black and
~-h; rfn ad Ill liz arnl rx-ift mir
blossoms. bows Of pale narrow velvet rib
bon were charming. white pink coutille
corset, with a bank Of fat black lace.
edged with black and white chenille around
the top Is ornamented by rev OF tiny
black velvet bows down the front.
A blue corset has pink bow at the
top in front, and a rose-strewn white rib
bon around the top. The black corset and
the corset Of plain color have been almost
entirely superseded by the striped and
lowered materials.
This is the season of seasons for va
ried and artistic styles! There is ir-
deed so wild a choice AID such tesilder-
ing variety that only those wise and ex-
perienced in the ways CT fashion can
keep their bearings and thus discern the
basic principles upon which thsse numer-
Gus styles rest.
As has been mentioned before, the
blouse and Empire ideas prevail ever ali
others. Long straight lines are conspi-
cuously the fashion. and even in gowns
which are not OF the Empire cut this eff
feet is produced in vertical linz Ct trim
/. ming.
No woman, however. need go against
her own particular style this year for
those figures to which the blouse and En-
pire styles are ill-suited. La mode fur
nishes models in quaint close-fitting
waists with long points in front.
False alarms of hoop shirts. hip draper
les. paniers. and even overskirts. are all
at an end. With every steamer which
goes into port laden with creations from
the sartorial artists of Paris and LONDON
the plain. straight skirt gains strength
and prestige. The smartest and very lat
est designs OF Worth Dcusect. and Raud-
nitZ have skirts which are almost severely
plain. very full. and though somewhat
shorter than of old, their length is still
sufficient to be both graceful and trouble
some.
The tight lifting. plain saddie-back skirt
has finally made its appearance, and the
box-pleated back has promptly followed
It, Nevertheless. skirts still retain trim
closeness of fit about the waist and hips.
the inverted pleat at the back being the
most popular arrangement. French gath
season grows older, and there is a mark
ed tendency toward increasing the full
ness OF the skirt directly in the back, but
possibly this will not fully develop be-
fore this season is over and the approach
OF the next spring is felt.
With all the new styles our old friend,
the ubiquitous bolero. holds on with won
derful tenacity to life. Some Of the new
winter gowns show this favorite of last
spring in most jaunty and alluring forms.
1t is style SO generally becoming that
II is hard to relinquish even in the face
Of the new ideas which are Of distinct
ly different nature.
The array of novel ornaments and bijou-
terie which the season has ushered in is
fascinating, wondrous, and distracting
Fancy buttons, clasps, pendants, and
buckles are appearing in new and original
forms on all sides. Rumor has 1t that
earrings are again to be worn, and pearl
and diamond acorns are displayed for
screwage in the ear. Coral is enc of the
fads of the season, also, SO look to your
old Jewel boxes for modern ornaments!
what q Bishop Said.
In sermon delivered by Bishop Spald-