Northern Wisconsin advertiser. [volume] (Wabeno, Wis.) 1898-1925, 1900-11-29
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to limit his purchase to so low figure
l strongly advise selecting plain black
or dark blue material. Cheap mixed
materials, although they may look
They are composed chiefly of cotton, a
fact that soon becomes apparent.
Some men find it difficult to buy
ready-made clothes which fit them
properly and in which they look well,
but, again, there are many, and es-
pecially young men, who have the kind
Of figure that can be cited perfectly
with the size in which ready-made
suits are made, and for such it is al
most always better to buy them at
good shop out of stock than to have
them made by some poor tailor.
DoubIe-5reasted Sack Jacket.
The double-breasted sack jacket
follows the single in cut as regards it's
length and the spring given to its
seams, but in both these respects it is
generally not so extreme. / say gen.
orally advisedly, because have
noticed on smartly dressed men coats
of this class which were very short
and noticeably cut in at the sides.
The cut varies somewhat according to
the ideas of the tailor and to the
fashion plate used, there being APP
parently two styles. 1t is difficult to
decide which Is the better, for it de-
ponds good deal upon the build of the
wearer, but generally speaking the
full-back double-breasted coat is the
most becoming to the average man, as
1t certainly is to the man inclined to
corpulency.
The only other distinct style of
sack coat for general wear is that cut
single-breasted, but straight in front,
with square instead of rounded cor
ners. There may be three or four
buttons, three being perhaps the better
number. Except for this straight and
square cut in front the jacket has
much the same lines as the ordinary
eingle-breasted sack. AS has been said,
! the smartest materials for winter will
be dark in color, plain tones, brown
and red mixtures, blues, dark green
mixtures and various shades of gray.
Several overcoat Models.
am continually being asked what
styles Of overcoats will be the smartest
for this autumn and winter; whether
the raglan will continue to be worn,
and whether there is anything dis
tinctly new in shape and finish. To
/ answer the last question first: there
are several new coats, but they can
hardly be called distinct, because they
combine to some extent the character
istics of older styles. This must
necessarily be so.
For instance, at one of the fashion
able tailors is a coat made of rather
heavy dark brown material, single
breasted, with fly buttoning. In
length ii is about 4S inches, and it has
raglan shoulder seams, yoke, or
rather double stitching in four pointed
scallops across the front, running up
to the shoulder seam near the sleeve
seams on both sides; and broad box
seam down the middle of the back
from the collar to the bottom edge.
There are. besides this model num-
Der of coats combining the general
styles of the raglan and the Thorn
dyke, all much the same in general
shape, but differing somewhat in the
yoke effects. in the seams. and In the
| placing and set of the pockets. They
have, so far as | know, no distinct
names and are special rather than
general fashions.
The coat generically known as the
Chesterfield is also cut and finished in
several ways. | may be rather short,
and hang only an inch or two below
the knees, and be fairly close-ftting. or
very long and with a loose full back.
This long style may have slit at the
back or be made without slit: may
have square set side pockets with
/ flaps and a breast pocket without flap.
or slit side pockets set vertically and
no breast pocket. The sleeves may
have turned back cuffs, or be finished
plain with only the usual stitching
Again, there are shorter box-cut Ches-
terfields, with single-stitched, double
stitched. or strapped seams; there are
double-breasted box-cut coats. and
there are various styles of coats hav-
ing a distinct cutin at the waist and
long skirts falling moderately straight,
or with somewhat OF flare.
The covert. IL of correct material.
and OF proper cut and finish. although
making no great claim to smartness,
is still a useful light coat. which is
still worn by smartly dressed men over
sack Jackets and dinner coats. The
Inverness, on the other hand, has gone
entirely out OF fashion, and is now
rarely seen. Coat models In which
waist and skirts are clearly defined. as,
for instance, the kennel coat. are be-
coming to some men. and, II correctly
made they are correct as to fashion.
During last winter and spring the ken
mel was decidedly in vogue.
Personally, do not care for the
coat with the box-plait down the back,
mentioned above. or for the other
combinations of the Thorndyke and
raglan. with their intricate arrange
ment OF seams; but the plainly yoked
coats. made rather loose and long. are
often modish. and the raglan for a