The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1900-06-03
Che Food Problem at Paris
Frenchmen Prepared to Provide For Fifty Million Hungry
ViSitOrS-HOw the Markets Are Managed.

four corners Of a stall crisply startched
Whlte linen napkins are tied over the
lower half of the body to intercept any
rising DUST piles upon piles of trimmed
ehio3ps are ranged in pyramids with cut
White paper cuffs on every clean screamed
bone, legs of mutton are hung i'm folded
ShellS OF white paper. and the full
bIedsteci fowls fattened, picked and pre-
pa, ga WIN the highest art. wear their
Gsiy headS tucked out of sight beneath
With such cIeverness do the producers
OF All these supplies calculate the exact
fIliouh nj ParlS viii consume in twenty
lour hours, that when the marketing
n0urS are over. the sewers of the mar
heJS flushed and the paved WAYS and
StatS washed down with diSinfectant.
hardly lettuce leaf or potato peal is
lett to cast into the great garbage
wagons Little enough remains to 80
INTO cold storage, and the greater QUAINT
tty or poultry. fruit and garden truck is
out TWO hours from the farms when eX-
pOseu In the stalls In the morning. For
TINS reason ii is safe to perdict that
curing the exposition season the food OF
Paris VIII be daily as fresh and abuud-
an trough any other summer. des-
pr III. crowds that will arrive to prey
un'1 .. larder and to see this larder in
an a. correction visit must be made
70 italics CentTalcS about o'clock in
'n2 morning. This is the one very large
stationary market of Paris. There are
dozens OF others, but they belong in the
SAAtiitutiN Planned system OF movable
markets that are never located two days
IN succession in the same place, and this
- d0ne TOT the special accommodation of
the householder living at too great a dis
lance from the Central market
In the Exposition Grounds.
If Paris is preparing to import ample
supplies for her markets during exposi-
ton months she is no less industrious
and resOurCeful IN her schemes for cook
ing and serving all the meals her visitors
ID - hsn Err~r -H-F
$4,000 capital restaurants. and already the
concessions granted to refreshment con-
tractors inside the exposition grounds
mas yielded TO the management of the
talr nearly S500,00G Three of the great
restaurants in the exposition have fig
ured that at their tables will be served
during the summer no less than 2.540.0 900
meals. With all this food to prepare
however, Paris is not in the least fiuster-
ed, and saving right in and about the eX-
position no particular preparations have
Deen made II would IN fact be hardly
possible to add any improvements TO the
French system of public dining rooms for
even in the humblest little cremerie
restaurant to Durand's or the Cafe
Noisin the food is fauitlessly cooked and
paid.
What will please the novelty loving
Americans at the exposition VIII be the
cheap German penny-in-the-slOt restaur-
ant, marvellous mechanical room with
big bulletin boards hung about the walls
announcing the menu Of soups fish,
breads, vegetables, etc, for the day.
None of these are served by the typical
White aprOned waitress, but a niCkle in
the soup slot Spouts fine stream of rich
tomato PURGE into a basin held under the
pOtdSe faucet, two or three sous in the
chop machine produces an exceedingly
brOlled mutton chop with a CTimped col
lar about the bones, and from big
basket woven affair fall hot rolls, but
tered toast or fresh cakes. in accordance
with the slot into which the proper num-
Der of cODperS are dropped.
From this remarka bic. restaurant
where an entire dinner from soup to
ices can be had, the Americans and Eng
lish turn naturally to the afternoon tea
rooms, which, with charmingly shrewd
knowledge of how to appeal to the ap-
petites of all races, the Parisians have
opened on nearly every fine avenue
handsome tea saloons have been opened
as Well IN every one Of the large hotels,
and IN some Of these afternoon refresh
ment rooms on the bOuleVardS the great
est taste and expense has been laVished
I IN order to give what the Anglo-SaxOn
calls the "hOmelike air. Chlppendale
furniture low rocking chairs about a
table StreWn with English and American
papers, hot buttered American biscuit
and a tall clock ticking in one corner are.
the French prOprietOTs have learned. an
essential to AnglO-American satisfaction,
and their Interpretation of what a home
atmosphere Should be, and though the
food. served in these afternoon FeStaur-
ants IS never expensive nor elaborate.
the volume of patronage is so large that
in the last year the number of them has
increased from two to nearly two dozen
, ana, as with the markets, most of these
small and pretty wayside ins of the
bOulevards are in the hands of the
women.
One woman has a series of three of
the most popular and Fashionable tea
restaurants and she has Teaped a profit
sufficient to enable her to buy her own
locations on the prominent streets,
I in no Lot ne
tea room kept by a tall. sad faced. but
eminently practical widow who with
her tea and scenes and American
dOughnuts and coffee, beguiles the pen
MES from the art students pockets and
from visitors who drop into her strange
/ little rooms, back of her pastry shop
/ and kitchen, to see bit of true local
/ lait that is supposed not to have its
( equal elsewhere in Paris
EMILY HOLT