The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1900-07-08

I garlands or nosegays of flowers, while
the tight swathing of the waist above
the thickly gathered skirts gives certain
Watteauesque piquancy to the figure that
IS charming on petite girlhood
Women are fearfulIy and unrea sonably
afraid of these gathered skirts, just be-
cause of this inevitable boUffant effect
! about the hips. And it is hardly to be
wondered at after the long reign of
sheathing fashions, and with the new cor
set. with its Strengthening effect on all
front lines from bust to hips. But, en-
the contrary, nothing makes the waist
look more small and round. especially
when the front contour of the girdle is
drawn down into a rounded joint so low
as to almost suggest the stomacher that
used TO accompany the gathered skirt.
The casino jacket is of silk It has bo-
lerO fronts. quite wide open. over which
is swirling mass of lace. cascading on
each side. and here and there held INFO
shape with jeweled button or i spark
ing slide. No one bothers as to whether
one wears paste or real" stones. AL
though the fronts are boleros, the back
of the jacket is cut something like a
mans dress coat The back forms are
long-waisted, close-fftti2g, on the prin-
cess model. Instead of being cut at the
waist, the jacket back extends in two
ends. This is very smart. Beneath the
jacket flows the misty drapery of a full
gathered skirt of white mousseline de
sole 1t is not only full, but is hounced
on the edge of the skirt to the depth of
fifteen inches. The casino jacket also
looks well over skirts OF lemon-colored
mousseline, IN which case the glimpse of
cprsage revealed by the bolero fronts
would also be Of lemon color, or have a
suggestion of it beneath the yelling of
lace.
OF course, there were lace coats at
Harvard on Friday, for they are above all
suited to this day, with it's attractive
blend of fermality and good fellowship OF
a private indoor function and an al fresco
fete, writes woman in the Boston Her
aid. Some were built on conventional
lines, trimmed with bands Of stitched
cloth or silk, with fringes, with black vel
vet pipings, or left severely plain. with
big buttons and stitched cloth lapels and
cuffs.
There was one of unusual uniqueness,
however, which proved a great attraction.
for its own sake, at least to its feminine
admirers, If not for the sake of its
sprightly wearer.
1t was built of a coarse, but very beau
tiful ecTu guipure, and was shaped in
such a way in the weaving that, with
out seams of darts, it hung in one piece
from the bust line to the knees, describing
a slightly naring fourreau. Under the
arms the lace was threaded in large
stitches by a five-inch band of black vel
vet ribbon, which held the coat close to
the figure and gave the effect of an En-
pire belt. It's ends fastened in the center
Of the front with a beautiful jeweled
clasp. The coat did not fasten below this,
but sloped away gradually, its edge left
untrimmed. The coat sleeves were rather
large, and had turned-back cuff at the
elbow, very shallow but very wide, in
order to droop in bell fashion. This, as
well as the high Napoleonic collar and
broad Directoire lapels, was faced with
white satin, embroidered with gold bull
lion, slightly mixed with light blue and
light green silk in pompadour effect
Undersleeves and cravat bow of white
null and Valenciennes completed this
adorable creation.
The hat was gem, too, although not
so extremely novel 1t was a large low
three-cornered Vatican built of softly
planted white silk null It had a pom
pom of black velvet loops for trimming,
and b ack garter about its low, round
crown. A light blue silk muslin freck, all
plaitings below the coat hem, was the
foundation for all this beauty.