The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-04-01

greatest town Of Africa. and its inhao-
itants number 500 600 Of which 25.oeo are
Europeans The citadel Of Cairo is us
most conspicuous edifice II is built upon
a rocky clin towering above the city and
constructed Of stones taken from the small
pvranid Of Ghizeh. IT is now one OF the
barracks Of the British army OF occupa-
zion. The walls are massive and in some
places 100 feet in height. The view from
it's ramparts. especially during sunset, is
wonderful and not soon forgotten
Immediately below. in the foreground is
the whole OF Cairo. with the carved domes
and the minarets OF its 800 mosques. Be
,ond the palms and foliage Of the town is
seen the green valley Of the Nile, with
gIimpses Of the gIistening river and
score of sailboats called 'dahabeahs:' on
The western horizon rise the majestic pyr-
amids. while around them and far beyond
stretches the Libyan desert like a bill
lovy ocean. The setting sun gives TO the
phole scene a wealth Of coloring and
beauty gorgeous beyond description.
The streets Of Cairo present constant
panorama. every hour quite different from
the preceding bewildering crowd of
people Of every grade and position pass
hither and thither, going and coming.
Springless donkey carts, each crowded
with a dozen or more chatteriug, yelled
women Of the poorer classes. proceed
slowly through the streets. A corpse goes
by in a rude box carried on the shoulders
OF several coolies. en- route to mosque or
cemetery. accompanied by the loud-wail-
ing professional mourners.
Hundreds Of well-irained doukeys nice
~ saddled and ornamented with necklaces
OF jingling brass bangles etc. dodge
among the crowd. wonderfully. almost in
tellgently avoiding all obstacles. The
rider often thinks he did it, but in reality
d was the donkey. Numerous Arabs are
galloping their donkeys returning for
fresh burdens. riding without saddle or
bride Donkeys drawing drays are fed
grass from the hand Of the Arab driver
as together they trudge along the city's
streets. Neither lines nor brides are
used; a shout or q pull does as well.
Camel trains. each camel tied to the pre-
cediug one and all bearing immense loads.
pass slowly and with silent tread.
Brdouins on Their Travels.
Here and there are swarthy Bedouins
with guns. fresh from the desert. riding
upon running camels whose swinging gait
gives even the spectator a sensation OF
optical seasickness.
There are many incoming caravans Of
csmels and donkey trains laden with
Egyptians and with produce occasionally
A child strapped among the wares in
huge basket 10 balance the camels COM
bination load. Numerous camels are laden
By chopped straw packet in nets OF dried
brushw0od The load reaches the ground
aud completely hides the camel except its
head. Such a caravan has the appearance
Il creeping or dancing straw stacks
Occasionally you see British soldiers.
mounted and afoot singly and in squads
10 bright red coats or other styles OF head
gear and uniform. Many of them are
Highlanders in kits. The Egyptian sol
diers and police are n sombre uniform.
There is a constant whirl Of carriages
announced by the sharp. loud cracking of
the whips OF Egyptian syces. who cali
"tllah ullah," hasten. hastenl. and the
natives af0ot and even lady tourists are
compelled TO run to escape injury az street
crossings there being no regulations en-
forced nor police supervision.
The Khedive's carriage is preceded By
Two fleet footmen in gold embroidered
Jackets and white Turkish trousers. who
shout loudly al intervals. II is surprising
how quickly vehicles get out OF The way
SIS though a the approach of a fire engine
Foreign cyclists of both sexes are uumer-
Gus. A few automobiles speed past Chief
ly victoriss. coupes and donkeys are used
by tourists. Lalies and men Of an nations
feel impelled to ride donkey in Cairo.
Society ladies bounce along on these docile
animals frequently held IN saddle the en-
tire distance by the blue-gowned donkey
boy who runs az the side. Tslly-ho coaches
pass with merry parties. The shouts Of
fleet runners and rumble Of heavy wheels
announce the glistening darkened car
Tisges with the harem. An occasional pri-
waite London coachmsn. with silk hat and
livery. attracts attention-on odd sight
among the Egyptian syces. who envy his
style and try TO initiate IT,
The fashionable dfiveways through the
modern quarter and the roads from both
sides OF the broad Nile valley converge at
The Kssr-5l-Nn bridge, the one point OF
crossing. The procession comes from all
parts Of the country. In the early morn
ing hours large crowd Of pessantry halt
near the bridge to pay duty on the produce
they are bringing 10 market
From long before dawn until far into the
night the Great Bridge is thr0nged
packed with a steady stream OF excited,
struggling humanity, herds OF animals.
etc. except an h0ur-lrom I TO D. M
when The drswbridge is open. and then a
mass accommodates on either side. and ter
ribie uproar and clamor result from the
hOdrSe gTuaniug o. tine Cdmeis which
seem 10 De complaining of their hard Tot
the noisy. inCCsssauT bTaying OF he dom
keys the bleatiug of sheep and GOATS tke
lowing OF the cattle the loud cracking OF
The carriage whips. the wells Of donkey
BOYS and the babel OF voices and shouts
O. The multitude. an OF which and more
serve 10 make the place az that lime
very pandemonium, until at last ace pro-
,ession OF fashionable carriage threads
It's way through The confusion and crosses
the bridge 20 the 1ouleyards beyond
Thoroughfar"s of Limited space
The old portion OF Cairo ls sim The cfty
OF Aladdin and The Arabian Nights. Jas
streets are very marrow and youuous. me-
osssitstius walking O. riding upon q don
key only O few bio.ta have been uiIeucl
sufficient FOR carriage The homes OF The
better class have ail windows and haieo-
rie- closed with lattice aori iu grea
variety of patterns and shapes Tho Hg
roof of dwellings are a flVoriia resort for
alr aud sunshine Some OF the bazaar
streets have space less than three fee.
through which 20 walk. Workers boz metal
cic.. SIT on the loOr OF shop which ,E-
tends one and one half-feet into the street
They car lean ever aud shake hands with
merchants OF the opposite side OF she
street. The groups o. workers are almos;
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