The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1900-09-29

oiity ana II seldom seen i'm anything but
the simplest OF widows weeds
ON the occasion OF the dinner Eugene
appeared In rich but somber robe OF
black Ch9ntilly lace over black mousseline
~ soie. the costume being relieved by "a
few magnificent diamonds. Princess Ma
n ilde. who IL much the senior of either
OF her royal guests. being well on to
eighty years Of age. was attired In cos
tune OF mauvs brocade trimmed with
black lace and clusters OF violets.
There ~ present craze for everything
connected with the name OF Bonaparte.
sara Bcrnhardrs play has aroused the
greatest enthusiasm for the family, the
name Of the little conqueror being nightly
cheered 90 the echo. Aiglon hats. Aiglon
gloves and Aiglon gowns are seen in ev-
lery shop. There II, however. no further
effort to foist upon the public the fash
ions Of the period. N one may except a
few remaining touches OF the empire
gown.
BACK To 1850 STYLES.
/ The fashions Of 1880 are what We have
10 do with now. The very latest skirt
ls Of the fitted bell shaped sort peculiar
to that period. The cloth IL draped over
the hips and is more or less plated in the
back. as are all the skirts up 20 date.
I Chinese and japanese embroideries are
fused with great success on some Of the
l new costumes. The fashion Is probably
duo 20 our recent interest I'm all things
Chinese. hut the effect Is one that IL adj
mrable. since the majority Of the best
oriental embroideries are marvelously
pretty and well made 10 the smallest de-
tail. once our eyes are accustomed 20
their odd combinations Of color. Boleros
OF the Chinese or japanese work corr
bine well with the rich dull shades that
are the accepted colors for fall wear
Swedish embroidcries, consisting OF APP
pliques OF cloth worked around the edge
with a gold cord. are also having their
vogue. The swedish designs owe their
beauty 20 sketchiness OF the pattern rath-
81 than 20 any niceties OF work. Bits OF
appliaues and add to the novelty Of the
thinning.
THE NEW DOUBLE SLEEVE.
The new double sleeve can be utilized to
excellent effect on the winter tailor-mad.
gowns. The sleeve II usually short on the
Jacket and pulled on the blouse which Is
wcrr underneath. Many street gowns OF
the tailor order are made TO wear without
an underblouse or bodice: the undersleev,
a. shan one. while the ceinIure under
the boloro carries out the appearance OF
eing the lower part OF the underwaist
Gowns bgilt IN this way will mean quite q
saving IN cost. as blouses are expensive
wardrobe items even AZ the bargain coun-
ter. when they must be OF silk or satin.
winter. but they will be shaped 10 the fig
lure IN more decent fashion than thos
that We're worn last year. The long coats
are 80 comfortable and so useful withal
protecting the entire surface OF tn
gown. ~ they do. that they are not like
~ 20 be lightly dispensed with.
! N seems Ms though bodices with long
tointcd fronts and bird-tan backs woul'
DO popular. Long stoies I'm front, EN-
troldered or otherwise richly trimmed
are eraducily making themselves conspic
nous on costumes intended for fall wear
The use Of embrolieries and other fame!
trimmings makes the cost Of the fashion
able dress something appalling. Not onl
are al constructed OF expensive material
but what with stitchings. shirrings. han
painting AMI hand embroldcries. so mucI
work IL put upon the gowns that u
no longer possible 10 have n gown Of tn
more elaborate sort made at the price a
, which they used to be.
WOODEN sHiRT-wA1sTs.
r The summer shirt-waists counterpart
a the woolcn winter shirt-waist. Is now
q be seen In advance designs In showcase
= at the bon Marche and the Louvre. In
4 waists follow In pattern those Of the gun
mer. Flanneis Of iine quality: but In eN
lery color. are used I'm the making OF IN
. waists. rhs Jokes are all stitched an
y short Some OF them are OF an arrange
Y ment of stitched bands put on 10 form q
\ ornamental pattern. The collars are ver
!. often Of the turned-ovcr SOFT. with 81
! tie knotted under the chin. The from
= lof the waists are caught up IN very ma
: row tucks. The sleeves are moderated
y full and made with n narrow cTn.
= ~ QUEENS SELECTIONS.
Queen wnheimina Is having her autun
ia ffocks made up now. One OF the prettie
p OF her gowns a. n dainty toilet useful u
n wear at those bazaar openings or corne
I'D ste no ceremonies at which royalty Is
:. often asked to officiate. The garment
r OF rose gauze over satin. The corsage
~ trimmed with n hchu-like collar, kno
v ted nj one side with n chou Of gauz