Iowa County democrat. [volume] (Mineral Point, Wis.) 1877-1938, 1900-06-07

In London every one is so taken up
with khaki blouses and khaki tailor
gowns and khaki redngoes and
tucked khaki hats and khaki sun
shade, that such bewiIching bits Of
lingerie as undersleeves do not disturb
their preoccupation with the war, and
everything it can be made to concern
But in Paris the spring toilets are
rendered daintier and the summer
wardrobes in preparation more sum-
merlike than ever by these reViyaIs
from the olden times. They are to be
found on lace frocks, on silks, woods,
cloths, piques, muslins, everything, in
fact, on which one may desire it. The
sleeves of the Elton jacket or bolero
suits are built short enough to dis
play them literally, and sometimes
end even as high as the elbow; while
the collar of the jacket, as if to make
up for the shortcomings of its sleeves,
mounts high up to the hair and then
turns down broadly in Napoleonic
fashion, with the large lapels of the
revolution that correspond.
Doesn't the combination sound
piquaint? And its realization in
etamine in a faint shade of cameo blue
Is even more so. The lingerie waist
with loose bishop sleeve, buttoned
about the wrist, is a perfect marvel
of needlework, and its Napoleonic col
lar and lapels, as well as the pointed
with of
braid, and there are gold buttons fas-
tening the bolero across the bust
The waist is girdled very broadly with
the taut folds of a wide sash of black
taffeta which is fastened in new and
original manner. Its ends are crossed
and carried around to tie at the left
side of the back-or front, if desired
where it's two narrow pointed ends,
fringed with black, hang down about
six or eight inches. This sash is a
Napoleonic feature that is very much
liked in Paris at present and bids
fair to find a foothold for the summer,
so attractive are sashes In every guise
TO the feminine taste. The final i'm
portant detail of this truly smart and
dainty gown is the gathers into which
it is laid about the waist line, it's hem
dragging heavily, scantily, Imply
about the feet upon the floor. The
front breadth, set in smooth at the
waist, is trimmed at the bottom by
horizontal straps Of narrow gold braid
like that on the collar and lapels,
little gold button fastening each
LOGGED end. The bolero is made in
teresting by tiny hand-run tucks that
cover it obliQuely in such a way as to
form upturned VS. at the back the
tucks running down in front. The
contour of the bOlero hem behind is
cut to correspond in an upturned V
which the high corslet entirely fills in.
1t is altogether the prettiest of morn
ing street gowns.
A pretty princess gown Of khaki-COl-
ored cloth has a stitched shoulder col
lar and stitched cuffs of panne velvet
in the same shade. The cuffs are odd,
they are funnel-shaped over the hand,
and have undulating tongues stretch
ing up the sleeve half way to the ell
bow. The gown is fastened the entire
length of the left side front with small
buttons of silk passementerie with lit
tie dangling passementerie pendants,
two to each button. The other details
of the gown are not interesting save
for the stole-like motifs of khaki
colored lace that trim the shoulders
and hang to the bust. The dullness of
the gown is relieved by a black velvet
crayat and by low toquet of bright
red cherries. with short loops of black
velvet ribbon amidst the foliage.
Almost every gown has some quaint
touch of bygone times that is most
alluring. This one, for instance, is
coquettishly suggestive of the vatican
period in the demure decollettage,
which is but a triangular oqenlng in
front, one point at the throat where a
choker of black velvet ends in a tiny
cravat bow of black. The decollettage
is deep enough to make up for its mar
rowness, and at each Of the other two
corners there is tiny black bow.
This fetching arrangement adorns a
princess frock OF blue satin in a shade
known as cameo or miniature, after
the faded old portraits Of Isabey. A
front panel, reaching from the decol-
lettage to the feet, and thence stretch
ing about the trailing hem, broadening
TO its tip, is cut out in a delicate floral
design over white satin, the cuttings
outlined and lightly embroidered with
silver bullion. This delicate combina-
ton is charming. accentuated by the
bows OF mat black, another OF which
finishes with white gauze founces at
the elbows. The back Of the gown Is
fastened with lacing cord. The
slight decollettage is filled in with
lightly gathered white Illusion. rem
dering more Elusive its qli world CO.
quetry.
Such simple designs In line and
color are the especial products Of
Partisan gownbuilders for Partisan
rantlewomen The designers who