The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1900-08-26
PARIS FASHION LETTER
DRESSY TOLETTES For THE
EARLY FALL DESCRIBED BY
FELIX FLOURNEY
NOVELTIES IN DEMITOILETTE
Cloth Gowns the Harbinger of Conn
ing StyIes-FashiOn Indications
Point to Heavier Draperies-
Fan PIentings.

Special Correspondence St. Paul Globe.
PARIS, Aug. 13-The demi-toilette for
elegant indoor wear holds its own at all
seasons and though it is not so absolutely
dependent upon the edicts of fashion as
the out-of-Goor costume is, it may be en-
dowed with some becoming novelties that
may serve as hints for the near future
Among the many striking gowns just
turned out by Robert a graceful demi-
toilette designed for informal receptions
at home but equally servicable as
dressy promenade or carriage frock
recommends some novelties which are
worthy Of imitation.
It IS of pastel blue foulard, and shows
an original mode of decoration which
tends to make the figure appear more
slender, and adds to it's length. Velvet
ribbon of darker shade of blue and
about an inch IN width stripes the
fouiard skirt which is shaped by means
of eleven narrow cores, the seams being
hidden by the ribbon. This ingenious cut
commendS itself particularly to those in
clined to embonpoint. At the back the
bias scam widens the skirt considerably
from the Wai5tline downward, aud the
ribbon hands are applied in deep points
all the way down A deep fiounce CT
blue fouard forms the hem trimming and
Is supported by the equally deer plating
Of the taffeta underskirt of the same blue
shade. The bodice is equally novel in
construction. 1t consists of a blouse vest
OF white chiffon Crimped over the tight
lining of pastel blue taffeta and confined
about the waist by a corselet of blue
fOularG fitted and bound to follow the
lines of the figure On the bolero the vel
vet stripes again are posed vertically, and
Is Nv IA
up corners in front of the little jacket
showing a facing Of white satin. The
tight elbow sleeves of VelYet-stripCd
foulard show the same little reVerS of
white satin from which escapes a white
Jabot of white guipure lace to form a
becoming frame to the elbow. The TRIM
ming is repeated by the collar and fall
of the same rich lace on both sides of the |
bolero. There is a high shaped stock Of
blue foulard striped with velvet and clos |
ms III front under a jab0t of white chit |
ION edged with Brussels lace.
Cloth gowns indicate the turning !
point of the summer and at present oc- |
Cupy the attention of every woman of |
foshiOn. Gold and silver braid form a |
prominent mode of decoration on many |
dressy models, among which one grace |
full model deserves mention, as it |
forms an appropriate transition from |
the summer wear light in texture and |
1t is Of cream white cloth and lined |
with soft white satin. The skirt has
a deep satin lined panel over each hip |
and reaching to the hem of the |
long skirt. These panels are lined !
with satin and held on each side with !
bolero decorated with gilt galIoons and |
gilt braid, and cut low around the neck |
showing a blouse of pleated white |
mousselIne with a stock and wide
corselet belt of folded orange panne
velvet. A large-brimmed hat of white
felt simply trimmed with gold cord
and tassels finishes this girlish cos
tune.
Another Robert gown shows the
combination of cloth and liberty NOUS
seine The skirt is Of tan cloth cut
circular and finished below the knees
with deep pointed scallops. A wide /
founCe of pleated liberty mousseline of !
the same shade is attached to the silk |
foundation skirt under the scallops !
and forms the flare. The familiar |
bOlero, which seems to have a stronger |
hold on public favor than ever, also |
greets us in this costume. 1t is of tan
cloth and closes in front with two deep
points held by two gold hligree but
tons. The collar and shoulder points
are Of ochre guipure appliqued on
Cream-colored satin and the wide belt
and collar are of crimson cream-col-
the same shade. A picture hat of tan
beaver felt. faced with golden brown
velvet and trimmed with long amazon
plumes. shading from brown to cream,
completes this study in tans.'
According to all indications, the tight
clinging~ effects viii continue though
a tending toward draperies makes IT.
self felt in deep pleats and panels,
which. however, are closely adjusted
to the figure. and so far serve the pur-
pose of increasing the flare only. In
many walking as well as house toll
cites the cores of the skirt separate at
or below the knee line. and. forming
panels. disclose deep fan pleatings of
different but harmonizing color This
is particularly in evidence in some very
striking plaid costumes in tailor-made
style, one of which. for example, in a
small dark blue and green pattern
with a dash of red in it, has these deep
fans of red taffeta inserted between
the seven cores of the skirt. A blouse
of red taffeta is worn. but almost COW
cred by the short jacket of the plaid
goods with collar, revers and deep cuffs
of red taffeta closely stitched with many
rows of red silk. Felix Tourney