New-York tribune., 1900-12-02
ESTHETIC WINE-BIBBERS
THE REGULAR ATTENDANTS AT SALES
or NOTED CELLARS AND THEIR
SHIBBOLETHS

'hat the gourmet INDUCES his palate where
the Sourmand indulges his stomach" Persons
"ho' elther on account of their peculiar prin-
'iPles or from lack OF opportunity, have had no
experience of the classes of men TO be found
where fine and rare liquors are collected would
pFobaby expect 10 SEC in such a gathering a
number of types Of the weII-to-do topper. all
more or less ruddy to their noses: they might
also expect to find the saIoonkeepers largely
represented Both these ideas would be very
thoroughly disposed of after a visit to one or
two sales like that which took place last week
when famous collection of wines spirits and
cigars was scattered N a downtown auction
mart.
TASTERS NOT DRINKERS
This is the first remark TO make: That the at
tendants, least of all the active bidders at such
sale have nothing dissipated in their appear
ance nothing bloated. nothing bibulous Among
the highest and most successful bidders at the
great Hilton sale there two common out
ward traits-a maturity in age often indicated
by gray hair, and certain refinement of man
ner and bearing. Each lot of distilled spirits
was represented the long counters by
small decanrer with attendant wineglass
ana the cOnnoisseurs accepted the tacit invita-
ton to help themselves But the total abstainer
and the topper might alike have been enlightened
by noticing that no one swallowed any of thesI
liquors; the tasting went no further than hold
ing few drops in the mouth for a second or
t"o- Your connoisseur knows better than any
one else how quickly the delicate membranes of
the palate and tongue lose their sensitiveness
under the stimulation of alcohol. and this
knowledge is the check upon his indulgence
both at win1 sale and at the cOnviviaI board
Beyond this gravity and decOrum of behavior
and a certain deliberation entirely foreign to the
popular conception of bacchanalian pursuits. the
crowd at the sale were evidently, almost to a
man, of the clas who have been long used TO
all the material amenities of life There was
not one loudly even showily, dressed man in
the room; every one garbed as if considera-
tions of personal decoration were too trivial to
have any claim in the presence of rare vintages.
Most of those who came to bid were men with
big check books. for they came prepared in
many instances. to pay as much for one bottle
as would ordinarily the wine bill for
dinner party of six.
THE TECHNICAL TERMS
The people who go to wine sales are in fact.
cOnnoisseurs. and have the fundamental refine.
ment of taste which makes them as truI,
aesthetics if pictures or bric-a- -brac were the
peculiar object of their delight. Those who are
not of their brotherhood may think il theI
please, that wines are much lower manifesto
uOn OF beauty than pictures, but your thorough
gourmet quietly smiles at this idea Their COM
mon taste is a bond among them which intro
duces them to one another just the pursuit
of golf or the enthusiasm of football draws it's
votaries together; the leading wine cOnnoisseuri
of New-YOrk know one another's names and
understand a common language which to the
untutored reader of wine catalogues must be
weirdly mysterious For instance, the outside
world, accustomed to regard brandy, gin and
whiskey merely as different forms in which
alcohol is taken internally with the object OF
either warming up the system counting OBJ
lvion of lifes ills, would hardly know what to
make Of "a fine velvet finish" Holland gin.
or how to imagine "a good style" in that liquid.
The mere guzzIer can hardly understand why
particular class of brandy should be most
attractive" or most PrepOssessing," unless be-
cause it is the strongest. and it would puzzle
him to explain Why well adapted to be drunk
freely should he added to the qualification
good sound" in describing a spirituOus lquor
as if any sound spirituous liquor were not in
tended by Providence Ito be drunk freely"
All these are techncalites of criticism which
appeal only to of gustatory enlightenment.
as the mysterious Italian terms of their science
appeal to cOnnoisseurs of vocal music. The
gourmets know exactly what is meant by
'mieIhed crtm' Bordeaux; wine with su-
perb robe is a distinct vision of joy to their
imaginatious; they pant the hart after rain
water" Madeira though it may suggest some
thing wishy-washy to the vulgar mind and they