Daily inter mountain. [volume] (Butte, Mont.) 1881-1901, 1900-03-24
SLEEVES
ARE I'm" AGAIN

Paris, March 15.-The house dress is
to the French woman such an import
ant part of her wardrobe tina she cheer
fully devotes whole days of Lent to it's
planning. With all patience she stands
erect while the soft fabrics are fitted to
her, and draped upon her. and again she
takes her place in front of the designer
While the ribbons are placed and the
11nal touches added to the dress.
The temptation to say that this year
the dresses are prettier thar ever be-
fore can hardly be resisted, specially as
the voluble little French dressmaker de-
clares that this is so. In a quick iabber
of French, with a word of English
thrown n-whic is considered very
smart in Paris-she proves her words by
holding before your eyes whole breadths
OF lace cloth, yards and yards of skilfully
embroidered Oriental silk, quantities of
the most delicately tucked goods, and,
more than all, and in greater profusion,
piece after piece of the figured pufIs
which are a revival of the Romney
period.
The long low shoulder is struggling in
to evidence as shown by the waists,
which are cut so low upon the shoulder
as to almost bind the arm. The pessimist
sees in this a return to the days of re-
stricted dress, when a woman could
neither lift her arms, nor raise her hand
above her belt. But the modistes laugh
merrily at these fears and explain that
the shoulder is cut in such a way that it
VIII be as free as when the shoulder
seam was placed near the collar band.
DEEP YOKES.
The fashion Of sewing a piece. of the
yoke upon the top of the sleeve to make
the shoulder look low. is still seen. but
ii Is not quite as popular as it was.
I VA cal FaI nIe1. n tho I3njtaH Stotnc
early in the season; and, as an item OF
positive fashion now comes back again.
that there should Ice no yoke waists, this
season. Investigation, however, pro;ei
this to be without foundation. In ten
gowns ordered by Miss May Goelet. thai
heiress, who must make a brilliant
match this season. there WIS not one
without a yoke. Several We're Of NOUS
seline de chine, a very silky fabric Of
white through which ran stripes of silk
and satin in different colors.
TIL pastel shades hold their own so
we'll that women of pale types are in
despair. Your correspondent saw the
ambassador from one of the largest ma
lions in Europe seated at church last
Sunday with his three daughters, rang
ing in a row alongside him.. All were
supremacy blonde and all were dressed
precisely alike in blue gray. with silk
yoke and Robespierre cuffs of pastel
S!th. 4AoW pule anu lHSlplu luOSe girls
looked, and how interesting their blonde
types would have appeared if. instead
of those pale colors, they had chosen
Nandyke brown or Wedgwood blue. All
are wearing KHAKI color now, and like
absent-minded beggars, some of them
look in that sickly dust color, unrelieved
by even a touch of black.
France has 40 love for England just
now ,as far as the courtiers go, for En-
gland is ordering black and khaki color
and little else, while France runs riot
IL a reyel of violet and blue, indigo and
orange or yellow and green, and all the
other prismatic colors and their varia-
tions.
NEW BLUE.
Josephine blue is a new shade, so
named in honor of that dearly beloved
French Queen, whose graces are to be
SO tittingly concentrated during the
now nearly approaching Exposition. Jo-
sephine blue is exactly the color of the
darkest blue in a forget-me-not. 1t is a
plain uncompromislng blue such as they
wore in the days before the primary dye
stuffs were tempered with. 1t is found
in the new mousseline de chine and in
charmingly made up LOUNGES of striped
White and blue, each fiounce laid over
with lace put on in big curves.
Yokes of the most brilliant contrast are
worn. With the Josephine blue you will
SoAC vi White Sllh SlI1Deu WITH
cherry satin; and, dividing the yoke
from the waist, is a strange little Cas-
tellane fischu of fine lace. The fischu is
half a yard wide and is draped from
shoulder to shoulder in such a way that
it falls prettily from the yoke well over
the bust.
The Countess Castellane, who is one of
the most discussed women in society to-
day, is said to have all her clothes Sc
lected for her by the Count. During her
recent visit to America the society pa
pers dWelt upon her hanged mien, her
sprightly aspect, and her exquisitely
fit" appearance. TO the Count, the mo-
distes say. belongs all the credit. for he
plans the gowns for his little wife, sees
them fitted uDOn her. rehearses her in
them. and does not give the nod of ap-
prevail from his blond head until per-
lection is reached.
The Ounte wears nearly always a
little fschu of lace draped across her
Eaist in u a way as to outline a yoke.