The citizen. (Frederick City, Md.) 1895-1923, 1900-09-21
EXPOSITION LETTER.
written for the Citizen.)
PARIS, September 3, 1900.

w nateNcf may Oe Sdlu OF the
decadence of French art as eX-
pressed in literature or painting,
no sign thereof may be seen in the
form which refers to the design
ing of costumes. In dreSsmaking
as we'll as in cooking the French
are still pre- eminent. The gowns
displayed at the present exhibit
tion draw such crowds of female
worshippers that they frequently
have to stand in line for hours
waiting a chance to approach the
glass eases. In the invention of
new shades and the combination
of old ones in the discovery of
novel effects In draperies and out
lines, the Parisians have long
been famous. and in these cases
may be seen illustrations of their
best productions, as well as de-
tails which indicate what the
styles of the coming season will
be. The French dreSsmaker APP
prOacheS an embryo costume with
seriousness and even reverence
and the result seems to Justify
his attitude.
There are not a few novelties
in the exposition. One of the
Containers, famous for making
Partisan women the prettieSt dolls
in the world has refused to use
wax figures on which tC display
his creations. They are too pink
and white he thinks and they
carry the gowns to much like
statues, with no signs of life He
has substituted terra Gotta figures.
the effect of which is surprising
at first, but when one gets used
to it, the originality of the idea
is very pleasing.
One of these models is arranged
in an adaptation of the Grecian
style to present modes. The ma
terial is also a novelty, something
between China crepe and satin,
with all the airinesS of the former
and the sheen of the latter. the
color varying into a dozen shades
as the light falls on the goods.
The drapery is something on the
order of the ancient peplum and
the silk lies in folds graceful and
light enough to satisfy the most
eXacting cOquette. 4 fine en-
brOidery in gold and silver edges
guipure insertion which ont
lines the bottom of the tuuic and
the drapery of the corsage.
A new shade of terra Gotta is
shown in a ball gown made of
mousseline de sole, the skirt
caught up here and there with
lunches of clematiS of uncertain
color-"like old paStels which
are dying of solitude and yet
smile at the future" exclaimed
an enthusiastic French woman
who was studying it. Over all is
a delicate, almost imperceptible
network of dead gold.
In contrast with the Greek cos
tune is a perfect reproduction of
a Louis XVI toilette in white
tulle over white satin, with seat
tered silver spangleS that seem
like rays of light on snow. The
waist has long, pointed, slender
effect, as if made for one of the
dainty marquieses who helped to
make the age picturesque. A
founce of rare and precious lace,
yellowed by time, forms paniers
over the hips and falling in the
back, makes double train over
the satin. The artist who de-
signed the costume has strewn
velvet roses in natural cOlOrs OH
the lace, and the combination
draws forth signs of rapture from
the women who surround the glass
cases.
Another costume in something
the same style is in alencOn lace,
with rows of insertion of guipure.
The charm of this lies in the CON
trast of the virgin white with the
white shaded with amber. Scat
tered loosely over the whole dress
are velvet poppies and in the
back is long train of lotus green
velvet, expanding in ample folds
like the mantle of a fairy queen.
Among dresses more suitable
for day time, garden party cos
tune in white batiste, with shad-
ing of rose, is notable. The bo-
Zero is embroidered with pink
flowers and the wide belt is in
rose taffeta. The revers are of
the batiste, laid in tiny pleats
and outlined with small buttons
covered with white taffeta, which
also trim the skirt. The front is
ornamented with lace stole and
the bolero closed over it with
butterfly bow of rose taffeta and
black velvet. A pink parasol
and hat complete charming cos
tune.
All the toilettes are diStin-
guished by imagination, exquisite
taste and remarkable delicacy of
execution. The same qualities
ora chown in tha avhihit of a 70 ~,