The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-06-03
NOTES.

Americans who may go to the French Expo
sition and have some knowledge OF cookery
art As II is practised by the most noted pro-
iessional French cooks. The Academy OF
Cookery will prove TO- be one u the most inter-
esting sections of the show, tits establishedina
O separate pavilion where. In full view Of the
public, all the details OF cookery are carried on
under the vision or are actually performed
greater surprise among Americans familiar
with the organization Of our large kitchens.
will be the primitive appliances employed by the
French experts. They will note the total alb
sence OF labor-saving machinery. and find that
the ranges, in which charcoal is the fuel EN-
ployed. are OF the same pattern ps those In use
accomplished with such primitive appliances will
urprise and asIonish those who have an idea
that multiulde OF, devices such as encumber,
cookery. They will see no iron. steel, nickel or
enamelled cooking utensils. Nothing but cop
per is used. The reason why the French cling
60 'eaaI pSn impa aTts "t to a !" s TVUs."s a SHARP 4
ness and flavor that cannot be obtained
through the use OF one made OF any other
o osF who will prepare Gsp Te'"s q 's sa, ies'eG made az" Of
precisely the same ingredients side by side in
a copper saucepan and In one made OF iron
or enamel. Yet in these DAYS a copper sauce
pan in our kitchens is a comparative, rarity.
II is possible that the remarkable exhibit that
We are making at the Exposition OF cooklns
ranges Tan m IN wa disab gas; on me or e.sg'r Hr yns 'i Frsns ss
Academy Of Cookery Of the idea that the best re-
suits may be obtained only through. the en-
s plSgmeEIt ,S Of isa r. 2ssa, aag gG X. sDb shs,r Sw u
heat in cookery. ii is surprising that they have no
not substituted gas for charcoal Gas as used in
American cooking ranges, Is an ideal fuel IL
so soon as a Wand Ia boiled, roasted. fried or
broiled. the fire Is instantly exttnguished where
as one Of charcoal must. burn until a certain
quantity Is consumed. II may be that the price
of gas In Paris is so excessive as to preclude Its
use there in cooking but a. we apply II II has
completely solved the problem. whether on a
large or small scale, Of the most economical APP
plication Of heat In all culinary processes
Foreign makers Of cheeses peculiar To certain
their merit to certain qualities OF the soll upon
which the animals whose milk was used were
pastured, aud TO special PROCESSES Of nanufac-
petition that they are called upon to meet
from Americans and Canadians, VIII are in
vadine their markets with limitations OF their
from England in regard to the counterfeit
ing Of Stlton cheese, which. heretofore. has
been supposed to be out OF the reach Of sue
foreign cheese makers, the discoveries in re-
gard TO the power Of bHcilli TO impart specific
~fiavors TO butter and cheese have destroyed
ducts, stnton cheese whose. original home
Is IN Ieicestershire. England. has always en-
joyed a great reputation, which has been en-
sHroSded IL method. OF mmsanniactare. OF
mystery there is none, and modern bacterio-
logical research has rendered, it possible for
Stlton cheese to be made in the United States
and Canada Of n quality equal to that Of Lei
cestershire. and even better for our own con-
sumption. because the English sort usually
s sS%ss i f9 E en Ia an no Sv certain f test o, the a%s,
ity Of the curd IL employed; 1t Is left TO the tpdg-
ment Of Individual makers. Therefore, there
lief. i TTe Satp lstA Il MIX aHi ns tSs test II for fS' aS Saanlt1!y i. % 4
scientific one; so that, there is little or no varis-
ton Of quality, The process Of making stl-
ton sSa cheese I, not g N very sn edIpbn TEs, Gms' "a The gTsd Iisr
icnlty Of expellinS The, whey from the cHrd
containing butter, which y caused by ADDING
milk Of the next morning. Another thing
necessary To. know ia how TO rennet the milk
properly and how "a, get the correct amount
many, natives Of efc,stsrshir nei E EnS1Ss set set,
srs thoroughly familiar with the making KIN ,S Of
Rknnolwiedse Of how i is done, the maker. San
produce his cheese wherever he may be-, With
the influx into the United States Of immigrants
every Industry that Is practised there, II .is
hopeless for foreign producers Of any special
eatable to expect 70 retain g monopoly o. Its
will bs undersold In their own market. The
English are eating Stllton cheese at this time
made In the United States, unsuspicious that
II Is not genuine Leicestershire
An article In an English technical journal
gives some curious details In regard to bread and
Jet to rigid laws and close. government. su-
pervision. In London only .fnrthlng and half
penny loaves were allowed TO be made. II
tns SSt'r allowed 5stsi'ed 10 h .sll e fs" in 01 sis OWE 1s
house. before IL. or before the oven In which
il wqs baked, lie was obliged to dispose q Il
In the market on Tuesdays and Satirdayss
white bread was not allowed 70 make bread
OF unbolted meal, and bakers. OF the latter were
not ncs, ps.|m!t'ed1 h to have we're a b boi aEfIo s!sy' tn u 1 hsas
their ovens. with fern. stubble or straw or 70
bake at night. They were not allowed TO- Ak
bark bread from hucksters when once II had
houses were not permitted to bake bread.
Private individuals who had no oven OF their
own. werein the habit OF sending thelr no,r to %
ing boards belonging to the bakers; the loaves
being baked In their ovens. Tho profits Of
bakers were strictly defined; The quality OF bread
pie who ate II. The finest and whitest was called
Asimnel bread" and was only consumed ,oy
the most luxurious persons occupying high
r Wealthy anu middle 't eIass used ID" waste bread
which Ia supposed to have resembled what
we know as the French "gateau." Poorer middle
ity called "cocket." a stilIl' lower grade was
%'tourte" made Of unbolted meal, II was So
called because the loaves had q twisted form.
Tourte vas used by the humber classes and
the inmates OF monasteries. Three other In
ferior grades Of bread were made; by whom
consumed II Is not stated.
OF the various gastronomic topics that are
now being discussed In Europe. that relating TO
the quality Of the food which Ia likely TO be
served at Paris during the coming summer
II ia conceded that in the way Of meat, horse
and donkey flesh will be used largely In the place
of beef. Even first-class establishments will
not he above suspicion, for every other consid-
GRAFTON must yield 10 the feeding Of m esti-
mated influx OF 20 900 1900 strangers from all
parts Of the world. The sale Of horse flesh is
authorized In France, The animals are killed
none that Is diseased can be offered for sale.
So-called rabbits and sausages, however, may
be regarded with suspicion, and ragouts served
Mt cheap restaurants should be avoided. Dur
ing the siege OF Paris, cooks learned TO prepare
rats In very appetizing ways. 1t is probable
that they have not forgotten the trick. Dys-
pepsia, which was once considered the rational
disease Of Americans Is another topic which il
being widely discussed in foreign Journals
devoted to gastronomy. What Is called the
mastication remedy II generally adopted would
put IN end 10 any but individual eating in pr-
vate. The idea Is that food should be masti-
Gated until. there, is absolutely no
system u is proposed that each mouthful shall
be masticated thirty times, That number Of
mouthfuls would mean 100 mastications. A
dinner party conducted under these conditions
would he an amazing spectacle, but there are
lots Of English people who will take this cure"
seriously, and being without sense ~ humor
viii, masticate according to formula, even in