The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-04-15


CoRDoVA, Spain, March 10.-When this
letter reaches Washington we shall be in
the very thick Of Holy Week, which is
celebrated nowhere on the globe as in
Spain. with ceremonies indescribably state
" ard magnificent, yet fantastic as the
Passion Plays of oberammergau. Year by
year, as the country grows poorer, these
ceremonisls increase in splendor, while re-
tanning all the quaintness of the Miracle
Plays of the Middle Ages, attracting
thousands OF visitors from all parts Of Eu-
rope Particularly, in Seville is Rome it,
self outdone in the pomp and magnificence
c. the great annual celebration; and as
that gayest as well most religious city
Of Spain is only three hours railway ride
from Cor1iova, we shall doubtless JOIN the
crowd of pilgrims TO witness the show.
In every town and city of Spain q eat
preparations are made in advance for HOLY
Week and all the people of the rural dis
1ricts flock 10 the nearest centres of
poulation-whole families together camp
ing i'll the streets and making a picnic OF
st. IL they have not friends TO visit or mon
ey to patronize the inns. All the sire cts
are swept and garnished houses newly
Whitewashed and draped in black, and ev-
cry smallest detail of the awful tragedy
Of twenty centuries ago is set forth so re-
alistically as TO make deep impression
on the most irevereDt beholder. In many
places the full Passion Play is enacted
out of doors. day after day, by the people
including the pursuit and capture of Jesus.
by men mounted on donkeys, impersona'ing
Roman soldiers: His Imprisonment trial.
condemnation, and crucifXion: and after
ward the hanging or burning of Judas-the
princial characters represented by will
ing citizens, eked out by effgies in the
death scenes.
The church, however. takes little active
part in these out-of-door performances,
until the great climax of Corpus Christi,
with its solemn ''pasos, intended to typi-
~ the nournful throng that once passed
the Via Dolorosa on its way to Calvary.
Every church in Spain has its Cofradis or
religious brotherhood. appointed as body
guards TO the Patron Saint, whose life
sized wooden statue stands above the. high
altar. 1t is also the duty of the Cofradia
10 superint tend the pasos, and to see that
no hitch" occurs in the performance. Ev-
cry church has its collection of images
besides the saviours, Virgins. and Saints in
their respective inches, which lept
slowed away for these occasions. Some
foundly venerated for the miraculous cures
they are believed to have wrought; and all
are brought forth, decked in their richest
robes, for Corpus Christi. Beforehand,
workmen have put up awnings over the
Streets and squares along which the pro-
SESSIONS VII pass, chairs for spectators
are set Tricky all along the way. and ev-
cry overlooking window and balcony is
decorated with gsrlands of flowers and FILL
ed with ladies.
Many of the balconies are gaily draped
with crimson velvet, or spangled tulle,
like opera boxes, and everybody is provid-
ed with flowers to cast before the sacred
images. As there are upwards Of hun
dred churches in Seville, and each has its
especial paso, all meeting at last in the
cathedral professions are constant from
dawn until far into the night. The ad-
vance guard of each pasO is always the
xazariness as they are called-the Cora
cia OF the chu-eh, wearing dominos ter
mirating In high-pointed cap. and rope
ropes girdles. Their robes are scarlet
purple; black and white. with long trains
crimped and beruffied, which they manage
with the gracefulness one might expect
and each carries a lighted candle nearly
yard long.
Next come companies of Roman soldiers
horse and foot whose shining armor (al-
though made OF discarded kerosine caus)
and waving plumes add much to the brill
liancy OF the pageant. Then come the
images upon a blsck-palled platform
borne upon the shoulders of men and
surrounded by priests and ecclesiastical Or
ders. The ornaments of the images are of
the richest and most expensive description
crowns of solid gold rings upon every
wooden finger, necklaces and bracelets of
ds-honds and rubies, jeweled brooches
wherever a pin can be stuck; the shoul-
ders OF each covered with a velvet cloak
gittering with gems and stiff with gold
embroidery, worth itself a princely for
tune. In the midst OF this bejeweled COM
paBy OF saints stands the forlorn figure OF
our Saviour, falling under the weight of the
cross. Its suffering face streaked with
blood doubly painful by contrast with the
faudy trappings OF the others. Immediate
~ IN front of the platform walk bevy OF
little girls, supposed to be costumed as
angels, In very short dresses of spangled
tulle, scattering flowers in the roadway. A
band or two Of music accompanies each
procession. and the rear is brought up by
& mighty following Of the populace. All
along the line OF march soldiers are posted
in double rows TO preserve order; and the
stirring music of military bands. the blaze
of innumerable candles, the gorgeous par
aphernalia and intense enthusiasm OF the
people, combine 10 render the scene one
never 10 be forgotten. Ludicrous though
some of its features may be. it is a specta-
Gle TO be witnessed with awe and rever-
tnce, on account of the deep religious fer
yer OF the acknowledgements falling up
On their knee. at the approach Of the pro-
eession, prayers upon their lips and tears
streaming from their eyes
As the platform, laden with images is
very heavy IL is impossible TO carry il
more than a block or two without stopping
10 rest During each halt the choristers
chant hymn. and when 1t is concluded
the bearers raise the platform again 10
their shouiders-the saints humping heads
and jostling one another as they are ele-
waited, and the procession resumes its
weary march.
scenes In the Cathedral.
Arrived. at last at the cathedral. the
paso adores the host, which is deposited
in splendid silver monstrance, standing
In the monument" The latter is tall
wooden temple. made in sections, painted
white and giIded. II is 10 feet high. by
fifty feet square at the base, adorned wis,
gigantic statues Of the patriarchs and
apostles. and Illuminated by 200 silver
lamps and 1000 waxen tapers. More
singular than all the rest is the
Eaered ballet. that il danced by choristers
twice every year at the cathedral, in cell
ebraiion of Corpus Christi and the
Immaculate Conception. group of beau