The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1900-09-15

gate there, staggering up ana DOWN,
arm in arm, proudly wearing their rag
ged cloaks like regal ermine putting
their interminable cigarettes and
shouting their Castilian songs. The
old-fashioned Spanish student" asso-
ciated in the mind with strolllng bands
of musicians, escalades of balconies,
and the roguish exploits so charmingly
pictured in the pages of THE Bachelor
of Salamanca" and Cervantes' Tia
Flngide," is now almost extinct The
ugly black costume of the order Is yet
worn, but the lockwood fork and spoon
stuck in the cooked hat. are nowadays
only for ornament, and are no longer
used to fish out tidbits from the cal
dron of the convent kitchen. Since the
construction of railroads in this part of
Spain has destroyed the business of the
muleteers, the troops of rollicking
youths that formerly overran these
provinces, clearing the larders of the
Ventas and arousing the ire of jealous
husbands have entirely disappeared.
There is a Spanish proverb which COM
pares without a guitar to a comet with
out a tail; and truly one is as conceiv-
able as the other in Salamanca. Every
student has more or less musical abili-
ty, and the performances of the eX-
perts would win applause from the
END men, of any minstrel show. Poor
as they always are, and often hungry,
his beloved guitar is the last possession
the scholar will part with. His books
go first, his cloak, his coat, but never
his music-maker until reduced to the
Of ct Tina r111nipiIN11
authorities of Salamanca have no jul
risdiction over the university, which
has its own government and courts.
The old-time beades charged with pre-
serving the peace, have a hard time of
it to keep in order the mad-cap stu
dents whom another Castilian saying
calls 1.-THE BedouinS of guitar and dag
ger" 1t is said that the university dis
cipline is very lax, only a nominal at
tendance at the lectures being expected.
The sole and indispensable requisite to
graduation is a thorough knowledge of
Latin, in which the candidate for de-
gree must be so proficient as to read
and write it with the same facility as
he does his native tongue. The doctors
of the various faculties are distin-
guished by tassels upon their caps
red, blue, green, yellow or white, each
of science having its pecu-
liar color-and funny it looks to see a
dried-up, leathery old gentleman stalk
ing solemnly about, with cap perched
rakishly on one side of his bald head,
gaudy bunch of silk dangling above his
nose.
The university buildings cover a great
deal of ground, but everything about
them indicates the decayed fortunes of
the venerable institution. You enter by
way of the library, whose facade alone
"a triumph of the decorative and her.
aldic styles worth an architects visit
to Spain. 1t is of the richest period of
Ferdinand and Isabella the creamy
stone having been as wax in the hands
of the artists, who evolved maze of
scrolls and tracery amid medallions and
badges innumerable. The inscriptions
are in Greek-"The Kings to the Uni
and this to the Kings" That
portion which answers to
1.-THE Schools of Oxford-begun in the
year 1415, in the romantic age of Juan
II, patron of literature and the trouba-
dour has gorgeous Picturesque front
and a curious Convocation House
Nowadays the students are lodged in
private houses and come up here for
their Glasses" The little square be-
hind it, surrounded by collegiate build
ngs, Is much like any other college
quad" only UNNECESSARILY shabbier
and more melancholy, In the center Is
a statue of the famous ecclesiastical
poet Fra Luiz de Leon. who is num-
oered among the eminent students here,
with Cervantes, Cardinal Xlmenes.
and others of. whom the
world has heard, now long returned to
mother earth over the door of each
particular science which is. or was, or
ought to be taught therein Inside of
each room is a pulpit for the lecturer,
and rows of benches for the students, |
with a sort of ledge before them, on
which to write their notes. The hand
some library is lined with Louis XIV. |
bookcases and gallery, a smaller room |
being devoted to a vast and most inter- |
esting collection of illuminated manu-
scripts and books, mostly collected
from confiscated monasteries Among /
he most remarkable are an illuminated |
of the fifteenth century. |
'Lbro de las Claras y Virtuosas mu-
eres" (Book of the Graces and Virtues
If Women, by Don Alvaro de | Luna; !
original letters and manuscript books of
Fra de Leon; volume of the Lords |
Prayer, in one hundred and fifty-seven
languages, ordered by the first Napole-
,n and many rare works prohibited by |
he liber expurgatorius-all of which |
he librarian will show you with bound
ess pride and patience. Passing
through several tapestry draped musty |
smelling rooms, you come to the Sala |
lei Claustro-a rather modern-looking
;oloon in which the doctors and heads
If houses assemble in conclave. A stu
lent about to "wrangle" or dispute"
8 shut up here twenty-five hours, with
| sentinel on guard at the door, to give
lin time and opportunity to consider
lis subject.
Next in interest in the line of colleges
5 the old Colegio Mayor de Santiago
Apostal, now called the Irish College,
ounded more than four centuries ago.
Here score of Irish students are al
ways in training for the priesthood. :,
There are dozens of others, all built at
Incredible expense by the most skilful
artisans of their age, and all now COM
)aratively untenanted, with empty
ourts and echoing corridors.
Even more interesting in an historical
Joint of view is the Dominican Monas-
cry of San Esteban, in the Gale de Co.
IN ("Cplumhl1S street" l-sO-calIed in