New-York tribune., 1900-12-30
EVOLUTION or FASHION.
PRONOUNCED FEATURES IN DRESS OF
THE EARLY HALF OF THE CENTURY.


1t is interesting to compare the fashions at the
end of thi= century with those prevailing at the
close of the previous one. and in the comparison
one trace the variations between English and
American modes much to the advantage, be 1t satd
of the latter as regards decorous fashions.
In 1875 the absurdly high hair dressing of Europe.
which nece5sitated movable tops for coaches to
allow space for the feathers towering foot and a
half above the head was reduced to the relatively
modest height of four six inches in the United
States. while the scant clinging and extremely
decollete gown. masqueradng as classic was
deprived of its objectionable features and became
pcturesquely flowing robe
When, during the Presidency Of Jefferson, mascu-
line attire assumed severe simplicity, woman
continued to go from extreme to another
When the pseudo-cassic style had lived Its day
the hoopskirt reappeared. and the corset that had
been abolished with the waistlne revived In 1920
even men in England and on the Continent were
wearing stays. and, considering the aTdor with
which the fine gentlemen" Of the day devoted
themselves to dress. it is surprising that they dlo
not contrive to adopt the hoopskirt. The Amerl-
can remained firm, however, and only laughed at
the dandyism of corsets.
At this period the fashions of America were prac-
ticaIIy those of London and Paris. and so con-
tinued for a number of years; but when the usual
exaggeration set in. and waists were laced almost
to the vanishing point while the hoopskirt threat
ened to reach the grotesque and cumorous dlnen-
sions of the eighteenth century. a halt was called
and American women stopped the wild career OF
folly About 1910 the first American magazine OF
fashion was established-"Godey's, in Philadelphia
and since then Americans have exercised an in
creasing independence in matters OF dress COM
harrison of "Godey's'' really excellent colored
plates with French journals of the time shows Il
consistent reserve in adoption, which was IN re-
alty adaptation.
This was evident during the vogue of the hoop
skirt which continued unnterruptedly from 4s+O
until nearly 1875 in some form, and the principal
variations in fashionable dress were in the size OF
the crinone and the trimming of the gown. Whsn
caiIed- measured in Paris five and one-half yards
in circumference, the American woman OF IasIlot f
yards, and when it finally disappeared and was sue
ceeded by the sheathllke skirt ana iohg ua; ram sie %
street into ridiculous punches or carried in huge
only three-quarters of yard IN length; "a5ca @
and grace From that time to the present, although
fashion has been often absurd and inartstlc tnere
has been ALWAYS a redeeming quality of sanity In
American adaptation, and within the present quar-
prominent factor in the of dress This is the
growth of the millionaire class The many vast
dictate terms instead of accepting them The young
have hs@ what she wants and although the Partisan
dressmaker respects his art he respects american
ordered. Fortunately the American girls taste IS
usually good owing to a cu!uvation pernaPs broad
sees Nore and thinks more than any other girl on
earth egn if Rers IF IT chance to be preo9sg
unknown. The French woman sees the result on a
suggestion in hat. gown or wrap becomes part of
tn. French mode but not mercy 1oeS te me
atlantic customer; he designs his choicest modes
with wit So h ee fsSe of French fashion built
to correspond more or less nearly to American pref
II is interesting to note that although there is
snTfafie ions IN be deren sections ot to the
different influences or races that settled them Even