The Republican journal., 1900-12-20
r.pcELoNA VIA PYRENEEs.

A lh'r titles of Travel in Spain.
-, correspondence of The Journal.
,st 1900. TO Barcelona by rail
ppl ,,nc the nothern border of Spain
8S' Journey to be greatly enjoyed,
pV .oliy between November and May;
sl'. ,s an intensely interesting one,
pp, ~ ontside the usual routes Of trav-
Sp n,ontv Of Americans visit BARGE
svery summer, but they always
i9'" zach il by steamship up the Medi-
AFa .aan from Malaga or Cadiz; or by
ie' ,nc over from French territory,
yi,p Toulon and Manaco. How
'@ !, Won would learn the real Spain
,,ust 90 outside the beaten paths
nrsrare yourself to rough it. You
ba content with coarse fare, hard
ela,sless windows and jolting
.. You must learn to wait with
-a,- rs YOU never waited before;
J. .myf all you must put Anglican
81. your pocket and treat every
..t tom beggar to Cabillero, as
M ,qual. If you can take a
. mbiHSed mind. temporarily
-.,+W american conceit, you will
.-....r+ ro admire i'll Spain besides
.....-. Nd her abounding treasures
- story and legendary lore, in
..t Generous hospitality of her
5.a their unfailing courtesy.
.a mast take the Spaniard as you
...- not as westerners, imbued
-r rcpublican ideas, think he
-..Uo His standard of religion,
...u. manners and duty, and Of the
...t..~ nj life that are due from one
..r... .. M to another, however wide
. tauk and hitherto unmet, is
e4srqt iem ours: and, it must be con-
t..aI some respects is superior.
.,s+r never become AmericaniZed,
r-ell~ sap wish to be; therefore it is
.o altigners to heed the good old
IN .UM.e in Turkey, do as the Turk
f>ureLy iaunt through the ancient
.-saasu If Aragon and Catalonia,
e-ag gtt OF the snow-capped Pyre-
,ss. rs tue experience of life time of
,s,. stern and bare for the most
t hardly tree worth mention
rsuOy grass, nor shrubs, there is no
-5eiIure Of striking natural beauty
Ne met. except at rare intervals
aa mountain spurs, running down
rr s desert, form an interim of
gn- Galley, which is as one great
Mryu utIosed within rocky walls.
Ny uteminable, uninhabitable,
h.-- naMs the silence is almost
a.,tY for here are no singing birds,
nry11 Hetsts, scarcely even any in
yt> Yet the soul of an artist will
Fl8 the long. gray lines of land
lH Wv, mbroken eXpanse of dark
r. ..e-. ate sierra. while every crevice
,-e amt hills is distinctly visible
i 81. 9u,parent atmosphere and
.t Ns of the clouds fall blue
r. pule yellow of the tawny
AL, Rvtulesque effects are never
rlt frequent shrineS along the
.,n Md. surrounded by Peasant
gr~ n-r~: groups of cattle at way
,4J @r my standing out as if emboss
al ~- the pale distances: long
u4 mules. with their jingling
5-e. udy caprisoning, and their
l- drivers in opera bouffe
~N
||s U character of almost all the
Wr" oN traversed by the principal
AN. spain. which was, until re-
- be toiled through only in dill
r4a on mule back, QuiXote
w. spain is now SO threaded by
Ias 'eel that nearly everything of
HH may be reached in parlor-
. 0N. How the Spaniards hate
"a. l'aI-r tuese railways though they
aUe Certainly they make them
psO1 I'd ever they can and bring their
aaI H10u as nearly possible to that
..e d mule-tratfic. Time is of no
elsHua4ee III Spain, where it has been
sa-0iu- tlll SO many centuries, and it
Nmmou saying, when train
caa ouug at a snail's pace, stopping
FHr -.v miles for no apparent rea-
F4- 'N- can smoke ones cigarritos as
R. H Ni- place as in another"
t ast When the American traveller
'e-n3 I'd think he has had quite enough
It and wonders why he ever came to
@s Heaven-forsaken region, he reaches
gt0f tie grand old cities which seem
44aFe tnloyed a siesta of several hun
V-a years and to have hardly walked
4lfom it Then how he pities his fel-
R0-l+mss who have never seen Spain
@lS satisfaction at once forgotten
-4t delight of cool walks, shaded by
V4sr trees, palms and sycamores,
~lg the banks of river; great open
%IdfeS for bull-fghts and religious
-7'as ioWery plazas with central
"araHr where bands play every even
Y NMle promenading hidalgoes and
F'4'as make furtive love by the
's''i the moon; dark, narrow, wind