The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-02-11

NEW YORK. Feb .10.-The girl from
California, with her feet on the fender. a
frown on her brow, and a sort of declara-
ton of independence note in her otherwise
smooth and agreeable voice, was condemn
ing the new vatican skirt with winged
words.
Say what you please, my dear hostess,
/ think 1t tyrannical imposition; it is not
becoming, 1t is heavy, awkward, and diff
cult to manage, and, hes -des, the fashions
shall not bully me-
My dear girl," placidly interposed the
handsome dispenser of advice and cheering
liquid where is your philosophy? Be-
sides. it is too early in the season TO be-
come emphatic over the future, and WHEN
the spring sewing does get round to US
there will be an abundance of time 10
wrangle over pleat or quicker more or less
in our waist band"
Time! time, Who speaks so lightly OF
time? Why / am already desp in confer
cnce with my tailor, stirring my dress
maker with a sharp stick, and generally
taking time by the forelock in preparation
for my spring campaign" MIS-. Van knick-
erbocker hustled in and dropped content
eddy among the cushions. Give me drop
of something hot with lemon and one lump
in II, like an angel, and then I'll tell you
all know about chiffons."
We'll begin at skirts We want TO know
which way the sword OF the fashion.
Damocles. is going TO fall. asked the
hostess rafting her fine china like
chime of little bells.
at is on the side alternately of the
pleated or gathered back OF course; pleats
for wool goods, gathers Cor silk. cotton.
etc, and, in my judgment. the bolero
jacket is going to descend upon us like a
swarm of seven-year locust of course,
this is the appointed time for early spring
tailor modes, and II sends cold shiver
through my pocketbook to see that light
toned clothes. trimmed with white. are
going to be in the very forefront of smart
ness The only refuge for the economical
ly inclined woman is khaki brown cloth,
and you know that is not always becoming
THE sweetest harbinger of spring i
saw this very afternoon, and made Tor
Washington woman 10 wear at the Paunce-
fote wedding. 1t was cloth having high
surface finish and of the tone known as
fax blue The pattern was princess, with
very narrow box pleats laid far apart and
hips in front. Heaviest cream-iinted but
tonhole twist was used to stitch fiat the
edges of the pleats. and in the rear these
folds extended from shoulder blades well
upon the skirt. A yoke filled in the top OF
the waist a yoke of blue overlaid with the
heaviest cream Russian lace, and back
from it rolled upon bust and shoulders.
one round continuous kerchief rever. its
border stitched like the pleats little 10
1T ia a,1, t.1r oEf-
ened with bow made of a fringed cream
Liberty satin scarf. assisted by trio of
white buttons enameled in blue.
"Of course. when ] was for moment
left alone with that dress ! did what any
woman under similar temptation would
have done. 1 examined IL infinitely and
then on leaf OF my address book took
down a sketch OF IL and hurried away TO
the woman who does for me and ordered |
its replica in Florentne cloth of a good |
sturdy khaki brown since mine must be |
a gown for more than mere house ccca- /
sions.. The cream bow knots is in the |
reproduction TO be replaced by one of
black and the. buttons will be gilt and
though ] do fitch ideas from others occa-
sionally, ! hug to myself the credit Of
copying only the best suggestions"
Put now. supposing you were going TO
have really ceremonious tailor thing
maze, something OIL an Investment you /
know. for the smart Lenten luncheons
ETC.. what would you have?" enquired Miss
with interest and due Difference
TO the newcomers experience.
We'll, ] did see a design today of the
mode modish. Maisie, who with me
quite broke her heart with envy over 1t
when We saw II Tapped and swathed in
sheets of snowy tissue paper and boxed
for shipment TO Mrs. Chatfeld Taylor of
Chicago Copied in the most expensive
panne. or in one Of the pretty economical
cashmeres that are so greatly the vogue,
It would be equally enchanting, and its
renders IT possibly for any but
the very stout woman. Sage green French
suitng was the material of the original,
the skirt quite plain in front. but from the
hips round 10 the rear caught in series
Of close set cord tucks run with grey silk.
In the back these were welded in grace
fully xith triple vatican plest that had
its ntitched lines carried out prettily ON the
train.
Really the dressmakers are quite daft
over the pleating OF skirts and will ac-
tually run the tucking round and round
from the waist TO well below the hips,
while the lower half of the skirt is com
pletely tucked on perpendicular lines. I've
seen some wonders done with the cork
screw tuck and others with tucked panels.
However. this is allowing our mutton TO
grow cold and ] must hasten TO say that
the waist of this frock was tucked closely
up and down and showed three over lap
ping reyers upon the shoulders. The two
first we're OF cream panne. the top one OF
green panne and a strip of the shining
green velvet ran down the front OF the
waist. TO set of 10 advantage three cab
ochon buttons OF moonstone set in green.
..Creamiest cluny lace over green made
the yokelet and collar and the sleeves
were tucked prcttily from wrist up toward
the elbows, in order TO give snug fit
and suggestion Of trimming. What the
saIeswoman packed IN with this duck of
a gown added to our envy OF its owners
good fortune. tapering hip long boa
,f green areophane, hemmed with the
band of chinchilla that looked
or all the world like pussy willows cling
ng TO a green bough is what refer 10 and
muff, all OF buff, with the cloud like are
,phane and chinchilla. completed my noble
discomfort with by own wardrobe"
"A moment ago you said something OF
,oleros that excited my interest" said the
hostess, trying TO read fortune in the
caves a; her teacup's bottom.
$50 / did" admitted the orator of the {
ifternoon.. Before very long the leaves
n vsllambrosa Will be no more numerous ,
han the Figaros, Etons. or whatever the
Individual women chooses TO name her
PARTICULAR net of shoftwsisted Jacket {
Her skirt was powder blue CLOTH rather {
eyerely stitched with four black lines at
he bottora but a most agreeable overdress
fleet was given by darker blue cloth {
wedges laid and stitched ON about the hips I
The wore an Elton jacket OF the darkest r
'lue goods strapped with the lighter toned /.
and this opened with broad re- ,
'ers upon the bust. 10 show the sweetest | :