Wood County reporter. [volume] (Grand Rapids [i.e. Wisconsin Rapids], Wis.) 1857-1923, 1900-08-30

Baltimore QeSCFlDlnS d SlSll W IehlA.
The letter is as follows:
"Since l last wrote we have made
trip to Pekin and had a very enjoy
able time. | will try to give you de-
scription of what We saw and did.
1t is about eighty miles by railroad
from Tientsin to the station at the
terminus of the road, which is four or
Ave miles from Pekin. Our minister
sent the official chair for me and the
official cart for Mr.. A 'Pekin cart
is like nothing one ever rode in before
and it is an experience to ride in one.
It reminds one of a railroad train off
the track and humping on the ties.
Wherein the official cart differs from
an ordinary cart is that it is unhol-
stored and the other is not and neither
has springs. They have no carriages
of any description. | went in state in
a closed chair carried by four coolies,
with a man to run alongside and di-
rect and mafoo (coachman) on horse
back to go ahead and clear the way.
All wore the livery of the United
States Legation, a dark blue, trimmed
in red and edged with white. 1t took
us an hour and a half and was very
interesting ride. We arrived at the
hotel little after T. After resting
awhile we went to the legation to
pay our respects to the minister and
his family We found them very pleas
ant and cordial. Mrs. Conger told me
she was at my service to go where l
wished. They regretted not being able
to have us stay with them, owing to
their having to give up all the spare
part of their house for the use of the
marine guard, there being no quarters
available for them. The portion given
to the guard could be shut off from the
remainder of the house. But they
hoped we would spend all oEr spare
time at the legation.
1.-The next morning we visited the
astronomical observatory. 1t is OF
ancient date They have several in
struments very old and of considerable
size, made of bronze supported by
dragons of exquisite workmanship.
They are the best works of bronze to
be seen in Pelzin, probably the best in
the whole Of eastern Asia In the
afternoon I received at the legation, it
being legation day at home, and we
both dined there that evening.
The following day we were kept
busy sightseeing. Early in the morn
ing we went ON a trip to the Great
Bell Temple, the minister and family
going with us. There were seven in
the party, three ladies and four gen
tlemen-the minister, Mr.. Dutten, our
marine officer with the guard at Pekin,
another gentleman and Mr.. The
gentlemen rode horseback and the
ladies went in carts. 1t took us two
hours to get there passing through the
main parts of the city and going sew
eral miles out into the country.
eve saw the bell, which was cast
about the year 1406. 1t is IA feet high
and hangs in a tower back of the
temple 1t bears Chinese inscriptions
on the inside as well as the outside,
and there are many Of them, extracts
from the Buddhist classics. 1t is the
largest suspended bell in the world.
The bell is "a feet in circumference at
the rim and 8 inches thick. 1t weighs
$4,000 pounds. 1t is struck by heavy
beam swung on the outside. We as
cended the tower and amused our
selves trying to throw cash Chinese
small money! into an opening in the
top of the bell, and l believe it is con-
sidered good luck if you can get any
in. / succeeded five times. We had
our lunch in building in the temple
grounds, a very nice one, for the min
lister brought his servants with dishes,
etc.
ION our way home we returned by
another route. We stopped at what is
called the Yellow Llama Temple,
famous for a white marble monument
erected in the last century by the
emperor to the memory of the Dalai
Llama from Tibet The visitor died
there of smallpox. On the sides OF
the mausoleum are engraved scenes in
the Llama's life. The carving is
beautiful. Numbers of beggars fol-
lowed us into the grounds. They are
the flthiest and most unpleasant
looking l ever saw. The sight of a
foreigner excites their curiosity and
they want to handle ones clothing.
I'VE got back about 3 o'clock and
then party of us went to the wall
overlooking the forbidden city, which
is in the center of the imperial city.
The wall averages so feet high, &C
feet wide at the top and about 60 al
the bottom. There are Is gates, which
are closed at night. We stood above
one of the main gateways and threw
cash among the crowd and watched
them scramble for it. One of the gen.
tlemen threw a cigar stump over.
was picked up by small boy, bu
the little fellow was not permitted t
keep his prize, and there was almos
a fight over it. That night we went tt
dinner with the first secretary of tn
legation. 1t was a beautiful dinner
The next day we returned to Tientsin
''Pekin is an enormous city and W
went through the greater part of il
OF course we were not abe to go int
the forbidden city. The streets in tn
best part of the city are wide and il
other parts extremely narrow. Al
are most unclean and uncared fol
They are thronged with people. mosd
on foot, although many ride in cart
and on ponies Some ride on yer
small donkeys, so small that they ar
almost hidden bv the rider and his fee