davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-01-07

n:eltiest combinations. 1t should be
borne i'll mind that cream color is not
strictly mourning.
one of the figures in The group above
wears u dress of fine faced cloth, with
roulcauN of Grape on bodice and tunic
and Grape flouncing and Grape vest.
Another is i'll a princess dress of CASH
ll-Aial liSsc re-
vers and vest and roulcauX of Grape
round the edges of the tunc. The re-
manning dress is one suitable for half
mourning in black and white, the ep-
aulcts being of white cloth embroidery.
The front is laced over Il soft chiffon
front and finished at the left side with
a soft. crepe de chine scarf. Chiffon
flounces edge the hem under the firing
ell tunc.
The fashion of lacing or trelllswork
of black velvet or ribbon on number
Of dresses is adaptable to our present
purpose. In the evening 1t is an ad-
mirable contrast 10 dress Of white
chiffon or silk or crape-whitc Grape Is
lovely substancc-and black fringe over
a white background fufills the highest
requirements of la mode. Indeed at
present black and white is so exceed
ingly fashionable that many people
who are by no means compelled to wear
il do so. though generally with an add
ed touch of color somewhere to serve ms
notice that it is not intended as mourn
ing.
The making of the mourning gown is
Il study of itself and if proper consid
Grafton be not given IL will he Il gar
mcnt of ugliress unsurpassed. Only
the most experienced can manipulate
somber Stuffs into interesting gowns.
and only experience of the best kind
could have conjured up the very pleas
| ing design illustrated. The widow who
wears this will not have any sense Of
frumpishness TO add TO her sorrow.
If a mourning gown has to be made
1t may just as well be becomingly
made.
Here is shown n tunic of Grape with
passementerie tassel fringe falling over
n very pleasing skirt of Killed CASH
mere. and Grape bodice with cash
mere sleeves ncloses a note of relief
! in n tiny chemisette of tucked white
| mousseline and black silk embroidered
| with black passementerie. 1t is a grace
/ full gown, yet perfectly correct for ha IL
mourning.
| ! don't know when have seen 4
more charming costume for half
mourning than one madame has Just
shown me. 1t is formed of fine blacl;
cloth. pin spotted with white and I'm
ished with white machine chain stitch
ing and other ornamental stitchings in
white silk. fan shaped things, which, I
believe, are technically known 10 the
tailor as sprats' tails-or maybe sprats'
heads. DAISY MAY.
New York,
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-01-07

fiance of orthodoxy. Diamonds are the
only Jewels admissible during the first
few months. and pearls are sometimes
mingled with black enamel. Afterward
the range is n wide one. though it Is
somewhat out OF keeping to wear
bright colored stones.
AS nowadays some people leave their
seclusion pretty quickly, evening dress
enters into n mourning outfit more than
1t used to. Black Grape. crepe de chine
and lisse make effective dresses and are
in accordance with the soft, clingins
style of present fashions. unreleved by
any trimming except dull jet emhroid-
cry or n soupcon of dead white lisse or
chiffon ut the neck. Dead black is not
at all unbecoming, except to one with
an impossible complexion. and to the
unduly tall or to the overstout it is
positively kind.
Attention should certainly be paid
to the item of pctticoats at this juno
ture, for many people spoil an other
wise irreproachable ensemble by for
getting the Importance of this. In deep
mourning Il black silk or satin or n
black and white striped silk is correct.
while for half mourning any tone OF
violet which does not encroach on pink
or blue is possible, as also are gray
and white.
Turning to half mourning. so great
is the latitude that no one need hasten
to put an end to the time. The delicate
tones OF gray. black and white and vi
olct are capable of the softest and
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-01-07

the deepest ana all black extends over
q year and n day. Duru; that lime
Grape cloth or some dull material much
hetrimmed With Grape is the orthodox
wear. with the muslin collar ana cuffs
ana Widows cap with long ends. The
regulation bonnet is not so generally
adhered 10, and the French style of the
long, sweeping. GRACEFUL veil. either
thrown back or over the face, seems to
be obtaining favor. In France quite
young girls wear these long. floating
wells, or. perhaps, streamers would be
better word for they usually fall
from the back of the hat To below the
waist. They are much Worn among the
better French families
The two hats illustrated herewith are
typical mourning wear. vet very styl-
ish. The toque is composed entirely of
crepe isse in turhan form, with up
right loops. The neck runle is of black
plated lissc, with n narrow ruching OF
Grape. The other is a modified direc-
toirc shape in fine black chip, with
large bow and strings of Grape. y pip
ing OF Grape edges the brim.
\ good many makes of silk with dull
surfaces are allowable in the deepest
mournings, but velvet and satin are
more correct for half mourning. The
same applies to jet; the dull kind TO
be worn during the first period, the
sparkling jet during the second. Ger
tain furs are allowable. such as astra-
khan, seaskin, black fox, bear, smoked
fox, ermine and chinchilla in half
mourning. but people who have hand
some sallles do not always care to re-
linquish them. even for short time. and
so they continue to wear them in de-
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-01-07

plifying the matter uf Grcgs w.!. II iri-
cvantly demands attention | SHAH at
least hope that the following informa-
ton Will tend TO relieve pcrplcxing
situation should il arise.
The question is often asked, Is
mourning going out of fashion? The
answer is yes and no. Among the
lower middle classes it certainly Isl:
among the upper section-of-s cciety it
Is as much observed as 1t ever was.
Royalties set an example i'm this re-
spcct. for their mourning is always
deep, and Grape is used to great cx-
tent by them. 1t is quite true that the
oil system of things which robbed the
trappings of woe Of any undue becom-
ingness has been abolished, nor are
these same trappings quite us funcrcal,
for which let us be thankful The time
of mourning is also considerably short
cned. though there are still few peo-
pie who have more regard for the state
of their feelings than the dictates of
fashion.
The outward expression OF our griefs
takes much more soothing form now
ndays than the frightfu old bombazlne
III which the contemporaries OF the
good ladies of Sense and scnsihlity'
were won't 10 shroud themselves. A
widow wears her weeds for l. months
and is seldom seen during the first
mar year except at church. At the eX-
plration of the year she introduces fol
SIN months 4 little white into her garl
IN the way of sheer lawn cuffs and col
lars. and If she has worn GRAPE o,
Dombazine veil at All II Is thrown back
and depends from her bonnet in grace
tui folds. The fancyof the moment is no,
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-01-07
a JAPANESE BRIDE.

The Jnpnnese bride dressed in a laa
white silk klmono and white veil, sits
upon the floor facing her future hus-;
band. TWO tables stand near, and upon
one are two cups. q bottle of saki and
u kettle with two spouts. Upon tho
other are n miniature plum tree. typ
flying the beauty of the bride; a minia-
ture FIR tree, which signifies the
strength os the bridegroom, and stock
standing upon O tortoise. representing
long life and happiness. The two
spouted kettle is put to the mouths Of
the bride and bridegroom alternately.
Simplifying that they are to share each
others joys and sorrows. The bride
Keeps her veil, and 1t is used as her
shroud when she dies.
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-01-07

she may go out to be seen in her
toilets. In itself an incentive to make
them their very prettiest. This is the
view our English cousins take OF the
situation.
English women have ceased to wear
the enveloping and disfiguring Grape
veil and combine dull jet buglcs with
Grape cloth. They do not Danish SO
much as n fold of white relief from sa-
BILE trappings. All women may con-
trive to look very elegant in barege
mounted OIL silk, in crepe dc chine
yelling q dull merry, In cashmere
fringed with strands of knotted silk
cord or coarse monks serge smartly
stitched; and if our millinery is light
in weight and vaporous. with black
tulle relieved with white and even the
many lilacs and puppies. VIC ere held to
he obedient to the demands of the sad
moment.
Fine faced cloths. cashmeres, crane
cloth, serge and matelassc are permit
ted to the latter day MODES. One of the
most salient objections on the score of
economy to the old type of mourning
has been removed. too-that of cockling
in the wet, for the best black cloths and
grapes are all rendered impervious to
damp and rain.
pears to be vague with regard to what
may and may not be Worn according to
strict etiquette. For my part. agree
with madame. WHOM, quote regarding
wido" : mourning: 1t is. of course.
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-01-07

its heart to the substitute mother
that has been provided for it. Then
when it grows UP the childs parents
wonder that it has not the adequate
love for them.
Often fashionable mothers will not
see their children all day. and. re-
turning in the evening too tired to
look at the babies, they consider that
they have done their duty when they.
ask the nursery maids: Are the chill
drcn in bed? Are they quite well?"
After that they feel justified in drop
ping off to pleasant dreams of their
social. triumphs.
The middle class mother is nearly
ae bad as the fashionable woman.
She must devote her time to shop
ping. to calling and to her clubs to
an extent that does not allow sufIi-
cient time for home duties. Conse-
quently the household is conducted
by the servants. and this is one rca-
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-01-07

son that there are today so few good
servants to be found
1t is a mothers duty to be her chill
dren's first teacher. 1t is ut her knee
that they should learn their first les
sons in regard to right and wrong
receive their earliest impressions in
regard TO religion and make their
first acquaintance with those trouble
some characters, y Il c. They
should learn the old fashioned rule
that early to bed ana carly To rise
makes a man healthy and wealthy
and wise Children should get up at
I o'clock in the morning ana so to
bed early.
Children only return the affection
accorded them; If The mothers heart
is full of love for them, there is no
need to fear that they will not grow
up to call her blessed.
MARY SCOTT ROWLAND.
New York.
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-01-07

readers find in his lines today an echo
of their own doubts and uuestionInSs.
| for this old time singer seems TO have
anticipated in his own early times the
spirit OF the nineteenth century, Just as
| Shakespeare might be said to have
done in his play of Hamlet" In fact,
the philosophy of the two works is not
unlike Yet the whimsical poet of
| Nishapur loved To indulge in sopnistries
and paradoxes and delighted in mys,i-
| Tying and confusing his readers. lie
also delighted i'll drawing upon his
careless head the ever ready walls OF
! wrath OF his Suti opponents, and then
retorting With his keen flashes OF wit
I So this is why moderns can scarcely
| tell whether Omar was at heart a cynic
or an cpicurean. Nor can it he de-
termined whether or not the Wine cup
he talks of stands as Il symbol OF tho
| divine or merely as q tavern healler
What was the cypress slender minis
ter OF wine?" Was it an earthly sylph
of some Nishapur inn, or did IL stand
rs the expression of some mystic SYM
| boil OF the soul?
The immortal quatrans OF the tent
] maker have accordingly afforded un-
limited study to literary people since
Edward Fitzgerald put them into Eng
ish form. Mccarthy. Allan. lie CAT
scnnC ana u score OIL lesser llSntS nave
followed i'll Fitzgerald's footsteps and
have met with moro or less success. 1t
WAS therefore wonderful for q mere girl
to undertakes that Which had banled
the ablest men.
More notable still Is tho skill with
which Miss Curtis performed tho task.
A comparison OF her work with that
OF the other great translators shows TO
trace Of imitation. nor even Of cchoing.
Where the Persian figures OF speech
must be translated into those OF the
western races i'll order to be compre-
hensblc she has not employed one that
has been used by other writer's, but in
every instance has taken one of her
oMn or else coined one from the quar-
ries OF her own experiences or fancy.
Her treatment is virilc rather thar
feminine. She reproduces the massive
thought the sialwart sentiments ant
The dauntlcss doubts OF the Persian
singer rs II she were 4 Whitman or
Norris rather than L shrinking ant
sensitive woman.
1t may be Il mental organization OF {
masculine type or It may be that higf
art which rises above all sex, but II
either case The Impression upon tn.
readers mind is the same. 1t is tn,
voice or Il strong man heard full Of
force. music and defiance of fate. Til,
workmanship is admirable. In every
respect it is on q par With the sonncts
!dyls ana lyrics which she has already
published. Each word seems TO have
been picked out for its place. and into
; the quatrain OF the east have beer
/, sllillfully worked the alllteration. the
l assonance. the line rhyme and hall
rhyme OF modern vorsincation.
t Here, IL anywhere. is the only place
where there may be n departure from
: the original model: yet ii 1t be II de
, rarture ii has increased the music and
5 the charm of tho composition. The
. work has been printed and bound In
; beautiful style by the Brothers of the
, Book" that quaint organization of low
l ers or fine type and noble paper, and
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-01-07

Of fancy whether The wearing of
npirlinG n its kindred stagcs-mean-
inS mauvSs. gray and volct--shall be
discarded altogether or if one shall re-
sumo the wearing of colors. Age usu-
ally settles lie point \ very young
widow will undoubtedly take advan-
taSe of the latitude thus allowed and
emerge from her period OF sackcloth
anti sfsiIcs= m TafniGnt OF brightest hue
For immediate members of the fam
lily. mother ana sisters are required TO
wear mourning for a year. during the
last half of which ii is lightcncd 1t is
not good form to appear at social gay
cites until the expiration OF this pre-
scribed term. The younger members of
the home circle may wear white
throughout the period IL they desire. 4
band OF homba2inc worn on the sleeve
of either tan coat or jacket is Il per-
MISSILE badge Of mourning but is not
approved by those authorities who in
sist upon the strict and consistent OBJ
serVance OF the rules, which means all
black.
Mourning, at one time n doleful due
to les convcnances, so very generally
bestowing ugliness upon those who had
TO wear it that they gave it only the
scantiest tribute. is at present quite Il
fascinating state OF dress. 1t is be-
cause fashion now chooses the limpd
style. eXtoliing the virtues of simplicity.
! grace and that quality OF serpentine
I elegance with which the garb OF woe
so sympathctioally agrees. And also
+ we may trace its fascination TO the fact
+ that the rules of retirement that used
/ to circumscribc the mourner's move
,a1o i
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-01-07

,Iss6
makes Us delicious a mo theIs for tho Hsb.s
liophila as any Cdxt6nY OF EizsE Ii 81 !.
Beyond the poet i Is t he peSsonalitysss
Miss Curtis II a. capi tai typa % the New
England girl. Her Ia thefs the late Dr.
Jonathan S, Curtis Us IIaf sford. WAS
a physlcian of high standing. and on
both sides Of her fnniil i are many ems
inent men. Her upcIa is tforney Gen-
eral Griggs of New Jersey. and her
first ancestor In New England waai
John Alden of Plymouth. "a. s;1s
She is OF medium height and slice
shapeiy incontopr. graceful in car+s
rlage. fascinating in speech. She has q
we'll rounded nature afids has been ed-
ucatcd with rare wisdo ON. She plays
sings sketches, paints and rides with
noted ability, and. without being a;
bookworrn. is a woman5of rnre culture
and acumen. She has n striking face.
the eyes being browns large and lus-
trous, and the hair p gold which In
some lights fades into u Madonna
brown. No young woman OF the pres
ent generation has displayed greater
promise or surpassed her In achieves
ment, so NJ VEsS ~ Il "A ss' lf~4 ~
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-01-07
GROUNDS FOR DAMAGES.

One OF the grounds on which Miss
lillian G. Norris of Plttsfield. Mass.
has brought suit for $4,000 damages
against the Winchester Arms company
for the loss of two fingers of her left
hand while operating one of the CONF
panys machines is that before the ac~
cident she was an accomplished piano
player, and thus met many people So
cially; but now, being debarred from
such opportunities. her chances of
meeting any one suitable for HUSBAND
will be very much less,
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-01-07

FEfERE seems 70 be n poetic wave
sweeping across the literary ocean
of the United states. At least q
score of talented versifiers have come
into prominence in the last five years.
The latest in the list. and enc of the
most striking. is n Hartford girl, y6unE,
pretty and accomplished-Alis Eliz-
abcth Alden Curtis. She came into
prominence two years ago, when about
Is years OF age, by having n number
of excellent poems appear in various
magazines at about the same time.
Since then she has been regular con-
tributor to the periodical press ana has
displayed 4 talent i'll verse remarkable
for originality, variety and finish
This work. which would have been
enough alone to have given her dis
tinctlon in the world of letters. appears
to have been mere relaxation. Her
real work was an undertaking worthy
of mature scholar. This was new
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-01-07
Sensible Traipipe For CHILDREN.

NAV Ky arc children less oledient
Wv Than they used to be? ! should
say it is because most of them
are badly brought UP. The mothers
OF 'oday do not have the sense OF
responsibility that those of Is or so
years ago did. Nowadays the av
GRACE child OF rich parents scarcely
knows that it has mother. The
5 enid almost from the day of its birth
is handed over to servants. and the
mother sees as little of it as possible
very few modern mothers care for
) their children as old fashioned moth
ers did; they do not wish to be kent
awake at night and do not wish to
J spoil their figures; so forthwith the
child is handed over to n foster moth
cr AS everything that lives, even TO
n worm, wants something to love.
The child heart -yearns for moth
er's love and care. and it soon gives
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-01-07

English version OF the "Rubniyat" by
Omar Khayyam.
The attention which this now trans.
laion has awakened is all the more
remarkable in view of the fact that the
recent renaissance in Omar 1[hayyam
literature has flooded the market With
new cdtious OF the great Persian poet
and astronomer. The modernncss OF
the spirit of Omar Khayyam, his de-
faint and half pessInstic view OF the
world. his grave Wit and bonhomie. his
good cheer and quiet humor--ail have
united TO make this troubadour OF stole
pcssimsm appeal To a very wide circle
of nineteenth century readers. Such
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-01-07
a sERyICEABLE BOW STOCK.
a stock Of silk trimmed in front with

a large bow ap-)
pllqued with lace
is n pretty tri-
file for brighte,i-
ing an other-
wise somber CO.'S
tune. The bow
is finished with
long ends of
s ilk trimmed
with lace. Such
a collar is USE
full in refurbish-
iIlS u gown III
which the bod
Ice front shows
some signs of
wear. The bow
can be made as
large as Is need
cd and to cover
al. telltale spots
or creases. The
best lace for the
purpose of trim
~ A-@4 ~@I@--A
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-01-07

ma ouRNING is the somewhat I'M
FE pleasant subject which several
readers have asked me to discuss.
IN view OF our own recent war and
mat which now plungcs England into
deepest SORROW the ethics OF correct
mourning may save some bcreaved
ones serious thought ana assist in SIM
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1900-01-07

for very long wells. those reaching to
within few inches of the waist being
most in vogue. although Paris advo-
Gates long streamer effects which sweep
with the train. This may be regarded
as the extreme Of fashion and not in
general favor.
After is month Z & merely. 4 matter
Barre evening telegram. (Barre, Vt.) 1898-19??, 1900-03-10
"Coi. Armstrong went with Mr..
Prime, did hep"

Prime, did he?"
with every assurance that the prod
igal should be produced forthwith and
restored to the paternal BOSOM" de.
claimed Mrs. Garrison, melodramatic-
ally, and would have ranted on. never
noting the flush of pain and embarrass-
ment that almost instantly appeared
in the faces of Miss Lawrence and her
dark-eyed eastern cousin, nor seeing the
warning in her husbands eyes; but at
the moment the tent flap was thrown
back and held open to admit tall,
gray-haired civilian whose silk hat was
uplifted as he entered in courteous rec
ognition of the group, despite the dis
tress that was betrayed in the pallor of
his face and the instant glance of his
dark eyes toward the slender girl, who
stepped eagerly forward. Mrs. Gar.
rison, turning quickly, saw, and with
swift, agile movement sprang to one
side. The general slowly struggled up
from his easy chair. Reaching her
fathers side Miss Prime laid her hand
upon his arm, looking fondly and
anxiously into his face. A soldierly,
officer, in dripping forage
cap and rain coat, stepped quickly in
and lowered the flap.
ibid you find him, father?" was Miss
Primes low-toned, faltering question.
1--WE found-the soldier referred to;
Col. Armstrong has been most kind; but
Il wasn't your brother at oil, my child"
Barre evening telegram. (Barre, Vt.) 1898-19??, 1900-03-10
Copyright 1899 by F. Tennyson Nicely.

IN earnest, and this was the company
that, under his command, swept tn,
boards six weeks later and left Sal
Pedro's contingent an amazed and dis
gusted crowd. Then Billy went tt
metaphorical pieces again until the wal
clouds overspread the land; then like
his fathers son he girded up his loins
went in for a commission and won
And here he was Sub" in Uncle Sans
stalwart infantry with three classmates
serving under him in the ranks and half
dozen more, either as junior officers
or enlisted men, in the camps of the
volunteers. He was handsome boy,
healthy, hearty boy, and, as boys go,
rather good boy-a boy in whom his
mother would have found, had she not
long since been lifted above the cares
of this world, much of comfort and
more to condone, but boy, neverthe-
less, who had given his old dragoon of
dad many an anxious hour. Now,
just as he neared the legal dividing line
between youth and years of discretion,
Billy Gray had joined the third bat
TALON of his regiment, full of pluck,
hope and health, full of ambition to
make name for himself in profession
he loved as, except his father, he cer-
tainly loved nothing else, and utterly
scofling the idea that there might come
into his life a being for the sake of
whose smile he could almost lay down
his sword, for he had yet to meet Amy
Lawrence.
"Who are the women folks up at
headquarters, Billy?" asked youth of
his own years and rank, peering eagerly
through the drifting mist at the dim,
ghostly outlines of the generals camp.
Didn't get to see 'em. Where's the
old mantle colonel?" was the reply.
Chief wants him toot de sweet"
whats wanted?" called a voice from |
the biggest of the eighboring tents,
and n close-cropped head was thrust
out between the front tent flaps. "That
you, Billy? Who wants the colonel?
He and the "brig" rode over to the Pre-.
sidio an hour ago-ain't got back. Come
n; I've started fire in our oil stove"