The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-11-11
LIFE ON THE DANUBE.
LEISURELY RIP DOWN THE GREAT
RIVER FROM BuDA TO GALATZ.
BIue Danube 90 short journey. but
Reminiscent-Ih The Capital Of Hungary and
It's People. Customs and Surrounding,.

Rsminiscent-Ih Capital Of Hungary and
It's People. Customs and Surroundings.
BUDAPEST. oct. 2o.-No phase OF CONT
Mental life is more neglected by tourists in
general than the rivers. II l. scarcely realized
how much can be comprised inland on a steain-
boat, without more than an hour or two on
the rail. OF all. the Danube most interests the
traveller Of to-day who would observe the
habits and progress Of the countries Of central
Europe.
After padding a few hundred miles up the
Rhine from Holland 70 Mannheim, | recently
crossed the great stream that rises away
in the Slack Forest and flows ma'estically
into the Black Sea, and find myself now at
Budapest, on the verge of the winter so
famed 10y its habituts. II is a fitting haven
whence 10 contemplate the customs and beau
ties OF its surroundings. Along It's banks we
may trace a. iavorably u from any other
centre the present condition OF some OF the
nohle>t cities and country which American OF
other tuuris; cares to remember.
This Is the vantage point of two great capi-
tails as TO convenience In the pursuit OF Its
scenic attractions. It has even the repute else
where of being the most central OF the Euro
pean Continent. Geographically, It may not
satisfy the precise; but 1t has become worthy
Of the name In other respects. In the hotels
81 this picturesque capital OF Hungary. the
more notable Of which look down upon the river,
You meet the merchant, traveller and health
seekers Of every nation an ever flowing stream
Of peripatetic arrivals AZ one Of the great Juno
lions, including the celebrities OF the earth.
only the other day it was the Shah returning
TO his own dom!nions. The royal visitor was
acc, annotated al the Hotel hungary. on the
Pest side. opposite the slopes wherein the
handsome palace Of the tiapsburss smiles
,p tho I,,,ll. iap ~ apts that hAstrey lts base
the emblem OF dynastic sway.
| cannot interest better in Introducing a
series OF Danubian sketches than with a walk
from Pest 10 Buda. which as | survey II here
in the mellow sunlight OF October looks not
unworthy Of the proud title It once enjoyed
as the key of Christendom, Now the peace
full retreat OF those who seek the great winter
tonic to be found in the contrast between the
breezes OF the Occident and the Russian borders.
you would hardly recognize Its steep noun
tain defences as the scene OF Solyman's con-
quest. 1926. when 10000 IIungarians are said
to have been taken captives-an achievement
which paralyzes even the military understand
ing OF the present day.
The Donau. tabled in story and song, the
scene OF conflicts that have stirred the heart
Of ancient and modern old world" may be
more romantic and Wild In !ts scenery. grander
Ia Its food and commercial Importance at other
turns Of its course than Il is here al its dual
capital; yet you will nowhere. ! fancy. con-
ceive more vividly tn greatness OF its destina-
ton Here you can study not only the pass
ing show" among Its frcquenters but the Mag
var characteristics OF the country. one Is
J li,,lc disposed to consider the disputes that
have stirred the united Austro-Hungary when
surveying the evidences OF mutual goodwill
and unrreju diced improvement that mark the
~ --.. A.. - I. a.,,aI. De-.
sonally. I should not care TO endeavor to dis
cover the smoulderins flame that Is still sup
posed to underlle the patriotic aspirations Of
these people There can be little room for
them in the onward rush OF Industrial enter
prise and agricultural development In which
will be sunk tho greater patriotism Of the i'm
mediate future As IL Is. however II may be
when penetrating the country districts, there
ia lil,ie 20 encourage the hu h. 3 ~ Hs Inter
est city Of the ancient PannoniR.
: As the PEASANTS tourney into the market
ing the singularlv handsome horse. which
strike the . . OF aliens as the product OF much
i fore a4d , IrdrT s,nderi GH' and ds imE Ess tswn ny
weather-beaten features 40 diIdainful OF either
pride or de,si, One looks in vain for ,hs,
20 inspire their infammable wrongs. With
them, on would sa It has been the iqsnir9-
adioCont to tho river. will scarcely find IN the
hctier di.r",t'lGn o, me nStr2sndahs@Iah
Meanwhile I cro.s the Blue Danube" b. one
Of The three hand'omo SliSren,ion bridges re-
are now being added to bv "A fourth, which 20
Judge by its iron supports and masonry vii!
Of a. a few NkroHncrs which nobod erudses,
hut | notice that there /: nothing reollly, blue
qFog, he .. ;tT ,c,g, l5 5I s of a d rba T Thine like "h iae
over u NAV he at Belgrade or Bucharest. Moth
ing Is blue in fact, bu, the soldiers and the
and elsewhere You must look outside onicial
ranks for those distinctions in costume as in
custom. which are otherwise, however. so pref
The Austrian soldier Is much, as Of wore.
physically fine, advanced in the late,t of evo-
.,ue As in the others. whose proud boast is
,ha, DE. are r liiary nations he is TO be seen in
"m,lit H9m" were fuihi. 'H Tire Saf' i SaSA oh saf ' ;1a,
"AlthoiIrh We EAGER Is 20 over 10 Buda, Whose
objective beauties are thus symbols" 81 many
human dolreions, We nevertheless become
arrreoiate them T. tho one va are leaving
on the other band where shall We % readily
ccn .oT"a'' Ps,, o> from "n FBs VIDA on a Clear day
FL October Is truly magniront, through lis actual
n.ontrast IN ne nlail It srreads sIn,eCr, as
thrrw-cd dta 81.
Gairire hv some e~,er,icn the heights, along
Nll4 " w l'HiL IuALN ." -.
the ualaCe ard the walls 81 the old town. the
prospect on tho opposite side is that Of stony
opuln1ce, Industry Is represented by the
smoking c~lifnreys away on the icht. clear
of Tho, d'y, recent prosperity by the new mn
riaipal Buildings on the left. ornate, In style
inprc-sivcly .~elaquent, though their eens
are easily missed 10y the unohservant The
handsome cathedral. the interior Of which l.
now being renovated, rniscs its dome and
srire high above other edifces all high slightly
IN the background, the theatre Is close by TO
the left. the museum with its classic front 10
the RIGHT In the centre. Add 10 this the numer-
ons srire. Of the Roran churches and many
n nile Of horses. Gl-t Nv ha7v hills and woods
in tho far back ground, ard this Is Pest, The
Tacecours-. n horseshoe turf enclosure kent In
good going order NJ special spray appliances,
f. away TO the extreme right. tho Marguerite
Island. n pleasure resort TO the left, In the Dan
uhe,, tho extensive park and drives at the back
Of tho town.
Can II be that this magnificent view Is hut
tho accident 81 vicinity u tho commanding
hills or which | stand whence Won would
he puzzled. as ! was, to account Tor its Involved
Regularity. ! can Use no better Illustration.
Brt Il l. the -irri!itpdc Of its kosnts and utcsds
that alone puzzles YOU rs Won pr0menad" thnm.
II is. In reality, n surveyors study 81 n river
/ div.