The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-10-07

gray the lace should match ii exactly. Gowns
exclusively for the street are very plain, made
OF the new wide-twilled camel's hair I'm the latest
tailor modes, but the calling and luncheon
gowns Of satin-taced cloth are works Of art
In decoration and elaborate detail. Whether
the yokes and vests are Of lace, silk. pdnne
or tucked mOusseline. there is invariably some
touch or finish OF gold. Insertion bands Of
sold cloth cut in small oval forms. Joined like
a chain and sewn around with narrow gold lace.
are effectively used on a tucked mouSscline
vest, one band being directly down the centre
Other vests Of mousseline in half-inch tucks.
each sewn With a row Of fine gold braid. are seen
In both the silk and the cloth waists A narrow
band Of embroidery done in colored silks out
lines the edges OF n blue silk waist around tho
yoke and down the front The bolt. also Of blue
silk, Is tied In a bow with short embroidered
ends at the back.
Brown. beige and red are the ~reigning colors
for gowns In Paris, but the woman who wishes
to be distinctivs In her dress will choose a
color not so commonly worn. The beige tints
are beautiful In the smooth cloths trimmed
with bands Of velvet. In a darker shade. and
lace which matches their tint. Nothing could
be- prettier for a calling gown. Pale biscuit
colored crepe de chine embroidered all over
In polka dots OF the same color makes a charm
ing at home gown with colored lace worked
with gold thread In a narrow graceful shape
yokearoundt he hips. This little yoke, shaped
like a half square rounded up a little between
the points and extended at the sides 20 meet
In front, is one Of the novel features Of the new
gowns, The points Of the square are ar
ranged at either side OF tho centre Of the back,
giving a very graceful outline, the shape Of
which Is shown In one Of the Illustrations.
Another feature OF skirts Ia the shaped
hounce, wide and rounding up a little In the
back, which. although II has never disappeared
altogether. Is revived again for cloth gowns
and decorated It's entire length with varied
lines Of encircllng tucks. Flounces of various
kinds and widths promise to flourish on our
new gowns, the narrow, fussy founCes Oh thin
materials and the shaped ones for cloth. The
graceful fare OF the wide lounce. which spreads
out from the upper skirt as II II were all in one
Is no doubt the excuse for is revival. but here
II Is among the imported gowns as highly
recommended as II II were a novelty.
One variety Of the use Of machine stitching
Is shown In a costume OF favn cloth trimmed
with favn velvet and embroidered with yellow,
black. pale blue and silver. Tho vest
il of white crepe de chine stitched with yellow
silk. the collar and wristbands arc Of yellow
velvet trimmed with gold braid. and the bow
IL Of black velvet with gold tags on the ends.
Dull pink cloth is the material Of the next
costume, trimmed with s~calloped bands Of the
same material spotted with tiny gold buttons
In groups Of thres. The vest Of mousseline de
sole Is covered with a fine lace work Of gold
partially covered or combined with black
Chantilly lace. A pretty skirt for crepe do
chine in gray Is tucked In vertical lines all