Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1900-02-18


other times. however. the plaits -
gathers are left free even ct the waist.
and then the skirt is called ia bonnie
femme" Gin plain English. ''the old
woman').
Other skirts again are "fulled'' in
only at the back, while the front is
as tight fitting as a princess robe.
This is the most popular shape SO far.
1t gives ease by the fullness at the
back and yet preserves in front the
statuesque form so dear to women.
But, as every dressmaker has style
and cut of her own, we need not hest
tate to adopt the skirt which is most
becoming to our figure. In any case
the quite tight, shapeless skirt is no
longer worn by any lady with "any
pretension to TASTE" as Lady Teazle
would say.
In materials cloth holds its own;
but what cloth! 1t is as light, supple
and sheeny as satin; the only wooden
appearance about 1t is slight, very
slight, down, upon which the shade
changes like shot satin. We call these
cloths "pannes" satin. They are plain,
dotted, spotted, Powered, befoliaged
and bestarred in quite irregular fash
ion, just like the stars which fill the
heavens above us.
For out of doors the more simple
dress the more elegant it is consider
ed. Cloth continues the favorite ma
terial for these costumes, but the
quality must be of the very finest, and
light colors are preferred. Plain cloth,
also, is preferred to patterns of any
kind. The trimmings are stitichings,
embroideries and fringes. The new
fringes are exquisite. They are made
OF fringed out ribbons and also of
chenille Even hats are being trim
med with these, for they are quite the
rage.
Terry velvet is much used for tailor
costumes and underskirts covered
with tunics. An imitation Indian CASH
mere, which is called jamalpur. also
makes elegant tailor costumes and
handsome house dresses.
Colors or either very bright or Of the
palest tints imaginable. Ducks egg
blue is very fashionable color, as also
is the palest of pale gray. Then comes
blue violet, bright brown, rose pink
(even In frieze CLOTH, turquoise blue,
mauve, grass green and red. Pastel
and flesh tints are reserved for evening
wear and are trimmed with heavy lace,
especially if the material be .pannes."
Waist sashes are worn more than
ever, and they are tied on one side as
a rule. They are mostly in black crepe
de chine, with a rich silk fringe on
each end. Velvet sashes edged with
chenille fringe are also seen.
Another pretty idea is that every
tailor costume be provided with taf-
feta cravat, either white or colored and
edged with lace. Many modistes pro-
vide a suitable cravat for every CO.'S
tune they make. The yalso make
long, nightly fitting jackets, or
coates, for plaid skirts, and these
coates have each seam embroidered
in darker shade of the same color.
Small buttons are now usedin prefer
ence to large ones, and are put on in
groups of two or three Breton style.
Passing on from skirts to bodices,
again 1 notice that a great many COG
tunes, although made with separate
skirts and bodices, give the impression
OF being princess robes, as they are in
visibly united at the waist. This is
accomplished by the bodice being worn
under the skirt, while the upper edge
OF the latter is finished with binding
instead of a band, so that it fits as
closely as possible to the figure.
Round bodices are most popular at
present-that is, those which are trim
med in round style, with chemisettes
and round shoulder collars, with hori
zontal rows of thinning or tucks. A
number OF pretty bodices are tucked
in this wise round the figure, the back
biting kept fiat and the fronts pouched,
with the narrowest possible vest of full
white chiffon introduced down the CEN
ter. The sleeves in such cases should
be tucked to correspond. Another
charming style of bodice has a chem
isette and vest cut in one and yelled in
chiffon. A round shoulder collar of
coarse, string colored lace is set
round the back Of the chemisette and
ends on either side of the front vest,
where similar pieces of lace are at
tached to reach the waist.
Handmade laees composed of lace
braids are as popular as ever for trim
ming purposes. This lace has a great
advantage over that mde by mchine,
as it can be adopted to ny pssing fash
ion. Some new blouses are yelled en-
tirely with it.
Now that we are in a period where