New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1900-09-23

knows that while the English clothes may
seem moro durable they lack the style
Of the home r<ade article, and he pat
ronizes the NewfYork tailor pays no import
duty and is not compelled to make excuses for
the misht Of his coat There has always been
doubt in the minds of some people as to whether
the American garments were better, and the
subject has always been a favorite topic in the
smoking rooms of the steamers. But this year
the judges Of the sartorial art at the Paris Elk
position decided the matter when they awarded
The first prize to the exhibit of the American
merchant tail0rs, and gave the highest award to
the John J. Mitchell Company, the publishers of
The Sartorial Art Journal for fashion pub
locations. A Fifth-ave. tailor said:
Well dressed men IL London have been wear
Ing garments fashioned on lines laid down
ny American tailors for several years. but they
did not know it. Their tailors took our patterns
and paln2ed them off as their own, but now
they viii not be slow to advertise the fact that
they are making clothes from our designs But
even with our patterns and our directions for
cutting and the proper material they do not
succeed in producing garments which have the
real American appearance This is particularly
true Of business suits. which lack grace and
look heavy. are always too ample and give the
vearer the appearance of wishing to get the
worth OF his money in material if he cannot
get il in style"
The Sartorial Art Journal" in its last issue.
says: Mems dress during the last fall and
winter season Of the nineteenth century will
better meet the requirements Of utility and be
more artistic than at any other time since the
century began. This is exactly and broadly
true not only as it applies TO the cut and finish
Of all fashionable garments, but also as it applies
TO all fashionable fabrics"
Fabrics will be less loud in color than they
he rajlo
who have shown advance samples to their
customers believe that striped goods will have
4 heavy sale. The checks and overplaids cannot
be driven out, however, and those patterns. to-
gether with drab and brown mixtures, will be
worn in business suits. The gray overcoat in
the various soft materials. which crowded the
black and dark blue garment so hard last win
ter. VIII be popular again this season, and the
Chesterfield VIII be the favorite pattern. The
fashionable length Of this coat may be de
ternined by adding five inches to one-half the
wearer's height for fall overcoat and six inches
for garment to be worn in winter. The black
velvet collar will be a trife narrower than it
was last winter The Raglan will also be worn
again but tailors are divided in opinions as
TO its becoming favorite. The street covert
coat viii be less boxy than il was last year
The length viii be about one-haIf the wearer's
height the back viii be cut whole. This coat
for riding viii be short about two inches less
than one-half OF the wearer's height There will
be few radical changes in outer garments, but
they viii suffice TO make new clothes easily
recognizable
IN coats Of all kinds there will be an increase
q shoulder width and greater shoulder square
ness. In all single breasted coats the notch
widths will be less and the roll shorter than
they were last season. In sacks the waist