New-York tribune., 1900-05-06
STYLES OF 1860 REVIVED
A CRAZE IN PARIS FOR HATS, GOWNS
AND SLEEVES OF THAT PERIOD.
Paris. April IS.

Paris, April IS.
How far is this for the 1860 going
tend? Shirred skirts long shoulders. half sleeves.
with lace undersleeves. and bodices cut OFF the
base Of the neck only few the indications
that point TO revival of these modes. a revival
that may more than passing whm the
part of Dame Fashion. The mliners show 1860
hats-most delightful affairs. There is kind of
poke. set well back the head; another shape in
great favor Is suggestive of an inverted saucer
and trimmed in such TO retain the
round fatness, and third example is a heavy
turban worn well over the face, like what used to
be called ir the old days pork pie
These the important shapes in millinery.
and they all reminiscent of forty years ago
Then in parasols there the tiny affairs with
the broken handle that of late years have only
In plain black silk. and have been affected
by elderly ladies for carriage They appear
in dotted muslins and most delightful brocades
perfect copies of those carried forty years ago.
Then a Paris glovemaker has produced a shor.
glove, fastening the wrist with clasp. This
is intended to be with the lace undersleeves
that fashionable.
One is led to expect naturally change in
coiffure BETTING these 1860 modes. Bandeaux would
be the first choice, but Paris hairdresser
suited the subject speaks In favor Of coiffure
consisting OF loose knot at the back OF the
head and a lot of short curls about the face and
neck. This is certainly pretty style, and IN
harmony with these modes, but what trouble to
cut off the hair and short curls just the
weather is approaching. Still, the tendency
all winter has been Al the direction OF curs over
the forehead. The Ponpadour has not been
ct all this by fashionable women, although
a good many French women comb their hair back
from the face and few irregular curls.
At the dog show lot of the crepons
and cloths. The plain cloths little
seen now. save for the morning and most informal
occasions On every other occasion il is some thin
stun that makes the gown
An old canvas stuff is embroidered with
small black dots. The long tunic is finished with
black silk fringe, six inches deep, which rests
on underskirt of black silk pleatngs The
bodice is draped and fastened with large tule
rosette made with long ends. a smart street
costume is made of navy blue crepon. trimmed
red cloth. The skirt is cut out in fine scallops
about the bottom red cloth, the scalops being
edged with gold braid The skirt is novel ir cut.
1t is laid in horizontal shingles half way to the
knees and then flares. On the bodice is high
corseet of red cloth laid in shingles. Above this
is a bclero. in scallops about the edges and
trimmed with small gold buttons.
There is a good deal of talk about the new
sleeves The dressmakers dearly love little
fulness IN this direction. and there is good deal
of experimenting in consequence. One pretty sleeve
is rather tight with bagke funess at the ell
bows II is effective thin gowns. Another is
extremely. quaint and much like the sleeves Of
long ago. 1t is full, loose sleeve below the
elbow. where il meets full lace undersleey". The
sleeve is made longer and finished the
wrists with lace cuff. 1t is doubtful If sleeves
Will grow quite tight the shoulders. Even on
the tailor made dresses there is a rounded funess
there that shows no sign of going out" The latest
thing thin gowns seems to be form of the
bag sleeve just described: and 1t be admit
ted that sleeves. whole, suggest the use of
more stuff than did the sleeves of the winter. This
is Of course largely due TO the thin fabrics
LACE EVENING TOILETS.
Paris is really unusually gay for so early in the
spring. IL is SAID that account of the Expos-
tion and the crowd of strangers that will be here
later the Paris season, far the French are
concerned will end earlier than is the custom
This is perhaps another reason why many i'm
The, dressmakers say that they are turning out
an unusually large number of evening toilets and
there is a great demand for hghnecked light
gowns what the French call '-dem-toette''
The great majority of these Of lace, and they
Sometimes down the neck little
which is. of course different matter from a full
Gecolletage.
Is this not a pretty gown? The material form
with yellow. over this is tunic OF Cluny lace
that is open in front and starts just under the
arms, falling over the train The tunic "blouses"
a little at the waist, and is held with belt of
black velvet and diamond buckle. About the shou-
ders is bertha of lace that crosses smoothly in
The bertha is arranged rather high.
There ia original Of large leaves Of ietted
lace on gown Of pale blue mousseIine de sole
These leaves make q cuirass a
foundation and trim the pleated bodice. The