Marietta daily leader. (Marietta, Ohio) 1895-1906, 1900-12-22


island, en- little olain that stretches
from the mountains to the ocean. 1t
contains about 10000 inhabitants, and
Is the third city in the island, but in
point Of beauty, it outclasseS all others.
1t would be a gem in any land. The
streets are wide, sidewalks fine, and
the houses clean and attractive. The
architecture is very pleasing. The
| dwellings are mostly one-story, the en-
tire frCnts being covered with arched
verandahs They are built of brick,
r'ltered on the outside, and painted
in soft tints. In the moonlight the
| Gown presents almost fairy scene.
The people, too, are bright and intelll-
gent and usually well dressed There
is not near so much poverty here as at
San Juan. Indeed, the two cities seem
to occupy different planes of civiliza-
tion
l came here last Sunday; came by
ocean, on the Ponce. to attend a term
of court. 1t was a delightful trip of
nearly a day, but every moment we
were within sight of the island. That
evening, after dinner at the hotel-a
real Spanish dinner of divers unknow-
able things, including goat and garlic
we took a walk upon the plaza The
band was playing and 1000 people l
should judge, were promenading up
and down the plaza There is where
Ghe beauty and gallantry of the city
gather fer an hour or two of social
mingling. 1t was happy throng and
there was not an incident that might
not have happened in the most .re-
spectacle parlor in Ohio. There was
no rude talk or behavior; no gathering
injo knot. and monopOlizing attention
by loud chatter. In fact, it was an
hour Of the most beautiful courtesies.
TAe gentlemen were always polite and
ne ladies as fair and winsome as you
2,uld imagine, and they were hand
2cmely and fashionably dressed, too.
On our way to the hotel, we passed
the Porto Rican casino, and We're in
vited to go upstairs and look on. There
we found a company of young ladies'
ard gentlemen dancing. Here was an
other quiet, courteous affair. Really,
it could be called a school of politeness.
There was the most quiet and graceful
Difference paid to the ladies. and they
in turn seemed entitled to it by the
mcst modest and delicate behavior.
Though it was Sunday night, | thought
| had seen in the states, balls on week
day nights, more wicked than this.
Here, it is the habit of thought TO re-
gard Sunday as a day of pleasure But
let it not be supposed that the day is
given over TO drunkenness and riotous
life. | haven't seen a Porto Rican
drunk since l have been on the island.
After leaving the Casino, l went over
to a crowd gathered in a big corner
room, and there a fellow was making
q political speech. He was a fiercely in
vectiye and flung around his rhetorical
javelins with merciless rapidity. He
talked SO fast that my little dab of
Spanish was unequal to the argument,
so | had to be satisfied with watching
the effect on the audience. which was
composed of men, women and children
of all colors and conditions. The peo-
pie listen. didn't see a wandering
eye. There is no election pending,
but tn people like politics and keep
up their campaigns all through the
year.
There is a street railway here. The
cars are drawn by mules. The fare is
three cents or twenty-five tickets for
60 cents. 1t runs from the plaza to the
port, about a mile and then uD the
| beach for a mile or more into the
country. I took the trip this morning
after breakfast. l was the sole pas
senger from the port, but gentleman
boarded the car short distance from
the port He was an officer of some
kind, but could speak no English. He
was very courteous to me- On the way
asked the name of certain tree
He said it was an Almond tree, ant
then stopped the car to get off ant
gather me a few almonds. which he
hulled and cracked for me as the cal
went on. Passing a school house
l visited the school. but as th'
teacher coud not understand a wore
of English my visit was brief
Soon after, we passed a fell
of pineapples, and the car stopped
again, and l went into the field will
my generous friend. where he pickeC
me some big pipeapples. Same ex
perience with an orange grove. l fel
as If the road was operated for my es
pecial benefit. am right sure the ca
did not get back on time, if any atten
tion was I,aid to time.
But it was delightful ride apar
from the generous attention of IN!
strange friend. The road ran along
side of the ocean. and gentle sur