The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-11-04

One Is heartily tired Of Offering the
gratuitous news that bolercs are as much
favored as ever. 1t was with much salts
faction that We can vary the statement,
If only a trife, by saying that 3oleros
with modified swallow tails are more fav-
ored than usual. Hereby hangs a tail,
but often tail Of such dimensions that
1t positively vies in length with the sweep
ing train Of an evening gown.
The line is more agreeable when the
bclero is quite short, for the effect then
given is much like that Of the flowing
Vatican plait.
The most original idea in cellars is the
high, straight satin band, about the base
of which soft ribbon is drawn and tied
in bow in front that shows as many as
six ends OF uneven lengths in front, but
no loops. Every end is pinched together
and finished with an ornamental golden
tag, Gnd the result of this trifiing device is
extremely pretty. Sometimes the tags are
of true gold, charmingiy wrought and set
with tiny Jewels. SO that they can be
transferred to every fresh neckun.
All shades Of brown gloves prevail, from
the palest cafe-aulait glace kid TO heavy
walking suede in deep tabac brown. Some
of the smart walking gloves have stripes
of kid laid on the back and tailored
with many s;itchings, ard fiat, heavy
brown pearl button fastened on with
brass shank is the proper method OF clos
ing them al the wrist.
The black tulle toQue was epidemic last
winter and il was 10 be hoped that the
heat OF summer h2d permanently melted
it from the memory OF tcque-wearlnS
womankind. No such change of heart has
taken place, however. and the tulle ;oque
is evidently prepared to weather the rig
ors of another winter. This season We are
TO have black tulle toques with uprollins
velvet brims braided in gold, or OVERLAND
with gold lace. Another species OF shirred
tulle headgear will be a marQuise in shape.
the brim freghted with long, luscious
black plunes, drawn in front through
very long. very narrow marquise buckle
of briiliants Bridesmaids have already be-
gun TO patroniZe the % tulle marquise in
black because of fits ineffable soft grace
fulness and the charming contrast inta
which it throws their delicate colored
gowIs.
Figured goods. whether silk or wool,
have all been ANONYMOUSLY retired to the
bargain counters. A stripe or a dot is
permitted. of course; indeed. they are
never out Of fashion, but all the CASH
are TO be wrought into gowns show none
but nlain surfaces. The dots and stripes
will do their duty in the field of shirt
waist manufacture. and meanwhile TO lin
ger al counter where the new silks are
spread forth is to enjoy an artistic treat.
Satin aiglon crepe nubienne, and Venetian
panne are the richest and newest fabrics
of them all. AS to satin proper, there is
little or none of 1t called into use by the
81; anl ~, In
jour, satin aiglon, and satin algerienne
that We hear End see SO much of are no
more than very rich silks with sheeny
finish that sometimes is iridescent.
Satin aiglon, for example. is the goods
OF which the pictured evening gown is
wrought 1t is in the new color called
snow white, which is white enough when
spread fiat before the eye, tu; changes a
strange violet tint when tossed into folds.
A full frill of white accordion pleated chif-
fon ripples at the foot of the skirt over an
under pleating of violet silk. The same
treatment appears on the bodice, and an
applique of cream white Malta lace gilt
tering with gold threads sufficiently deco
rates the overdress and shoulder band.
There continues a general use of heavy
silk braid, in Louis XVI patterns. on the
stih gowns. Many women prefer, when
buying satin-faced cloths. 10 trim the sur
face of the goods but slightly, and give
the beautiful quality of the cloth chance
TO be appreciated. The clearest explana-
ton OF how this is done is given in the
sketch of an extremely smart afternoon
walking suit. The goods in this instance
is particularly rich-looking earth-mold
brown satin-faced suiting. made I'D with |
a safe au lait silk bodice and black silk
hgure braid. The silk finely tucked forms I
the snusly fitting undersleeves, collar, and !
vest. while below the cloth bolero il |
blouses out quite plain
reference should be made here TO the 4
growing favor of brown this season and .
the almost lmitless gradations Of ones
which the dyers seem now able TO produce {
So caressing and warm are many of the
shades in which brown goods can now be /
bought that even very pale or a sallow /
woman can choose a tone that will lend to [
her complexion both color and clarity.
We are not to lack for variety in skirts .
this fall. since SO many designs are in 4
vogue. The flare at the foot seems first ,
choice, however produced, whether by nu- /
merous cores by plaitings let in between
cores, by the still favored shaped flounce I
or by plaitings set On all around. The ,
shaped founce. be II noted. is much mar
rover, quite scant, merely giving a fine .
swing to the skirt without ripping and I
the fullness introduced in the cores is not
stiffened. falling quite Imply and is GER
tainly very graceful. Many pretty con-
ceits of decoration are introduced Ly the
let-in plaits, and this mode is in eonse-
quence very much adopted for light woods |
and crepes. showing the laces and braids .
used to fine advantage. At the waist the .
old condition of a fiat, rather close fit pre-
dominates, although the plait while not
aggressive. is not at all concealed. One .
decidedly new skirt had its side panels
made many inches longer than the rest of .
the skirt. and this surplus was brought up
into frill at each side the back, SO that |
there was little space between them. The |
frill was about one and one-half inches |
deep and fared most prettily. The gath
ers resulting gracefully spread over the
hips. disappearing toward the front ard
running slightly downward. giving a pam
nier effect without its bulk. The costume
was in a Russian blue serge, with plas-
tron, cuffs. and collar of heavy guipure
over cloth of gold. and small revers were
heavily hand embroidered in black silk
and gold threads.
Belts ard girdles OF gold braid are
snowy and vulgar-looking OF handsome
and artistic in the extreme, according to
the shop and the price. Nothing is less
smart than a bent and furnished gold belt,
with a cheap brass buckle, worn with a
costume which is unsuitable for such an
ornament. A gold belt that has distinc-
tion and beauty costs 4 pretty penny in
these giittering days. but 1t is worth it.
For example: A broad ceinture is formed
by band of heavy, closely woven gold
cloth, cleaning darkly and rightly. II is
bordered by bands OF velvet. about half
OF its own width, the upper one of black
velvet, the lower one of coral pink. The
buckle is Of enamel and jewels and on
do pf hn ba1 &c adn hx