Northern Wisconsin advertiser. [volume] (Wabeno, Wis.) 1898-1925, 1900-11-29

reVerS1On TO former SLyle OF OIL
fashion distinctly new has made itself
manifest. 1t may be thought that
there is nothing in the cut of one sack
coat to distinguish it from another or
that all sack jackets must be much
alike.
AS a matter of fact there are certain
characteristics given the sack by the
smart cutters which are lacking, to
greater or less degree, in sack Jackets
made by the ordinary cheap tailor and
in those to be bought ready made at
the clothing establishments.
Correct Cut of Sack Suits.
It is difficult to describe the exact
appearance of the fashionab!y made
sack suit. The main features are the
shortness and spring seams Of the
jacket and the fullness of the trousers
over the hips and thighs. The shout
ders should be made to look as broad
as possible, the sleeves being put on so
as to give a rounded rather than a
square turn from the shoulders proper
down over the upper arms. The shout
ders should not be made to look slant
ing or rounded In the way that rag
ian coat makes them appear, for. on
the contrary, they should be square;
there should not be an angle made at
the seam where the sleeve is put on.
In front the coat hangs straight. but
at the sides and in a lesser degree at
the back it is cut in from the shout
ders, the seams having noticeable
spring, so that there is some sugges-
ton of waist without, however. a
marked waist line. From this cut at
the waist the jacket curves out again,
giving 1t at the bottom somewhat of
belled appearance.
The trousers, as have said. are full
over the hips and thighs, but this full
ness must be given without causing
wrinkles and folds of material-which
are unsightly and which, owing to the
shortness of the coat, can be easily
seen. At the knees the trousers are
narrower, of course. than above, and
at the ankles still narrower. but the
lines are perfectly straight without
spring to the seams or attempt to fol-
low the form Of the leg. This cut of
trousers is commonly called 'peg-top,"
and 1t is rather difficult to make cor
rectly. trtfAl
The cut is not new, for 1t is that used
for sack suits during the past summer,
the shortness of the jacket especially
having come into fashion as long ago
as last autumn. Intrinsically the new
err may not be as good looking as that
OF the old style, which had a longer
and straighter hanging jacket, but
there is no question of its smartness,
particularly for younger men who can
afford to be ore or less extreme.
Older men, especially IL they are in
clined to stoutness, had better sacrifice
fashion TO looks TO the extent of having
little more length and little less
spring TO their sack coats.
Waistcoats.
Double-breasted waistcoats are still
worn with buttons converging toward
the bottom, but the single-breasted cut
is somewhat the better for sack suits
II Is largely question of personal
preference, as Is also the matter of
having the waistcoat with or without
lapel. However made. it should be
rather high at the neck and fairly
short.
Fancy colored extra waistcoats are
seldom worn by the best-dressed men
with sack suits. and 1t is even doubtful
IL with the frock or morning coat they
will be as much in vogue this year as
they were last They will, of course
not go entirely out of fashion. and
with a frock coat a wellmade waist
coat which fits properly and is not too
striking Is often smart-looking. Much
depends upon the cut. the material
and the individual style of the wearer.
There are some articles of apparel
which may be bought almost as good
looking at the less expensive furnish
ing shops and haberdashers us at the
fashionable and high.priced places. but
waistcoats cannot be included in the
list.
Ready.Made Sack Suits.
To return to the subject OF sack
suits. questions frequently asked are:
Where can | get correctly cut suit
ready nader" and, How much should
Il cost?" Opinions differ. but as these
points are of interest to n large class
OF men who cannot AFFORD to have
by expensive tailors, yet who are
gentlemen in every sense of the word,
and who wish to appear as well
dressed as possible, shall be very
glad TO set down few suggestions,
hoping that they may be of service.
So much depends upon the material of
which a suit Is made. upon the work
manship and upon the standing and
reputation of the shop that 1t is Inn
possible TO particularize. II used to be
thought next to impossible TO buy a
really well-cut and smart-looking suit
of any description ready made out of
stock. but times have changed; great
improvements in the art of making
clothes have taken place materials are
cheaper and today there is not the
stigma that there used to be attached
to wearing clothes that have not been
made to order. OF course II is posi-
BILE to buy sack suits ready made ut
prices even below those have named