The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1900-07-25
IN CORNWALL.
A Tramp Through Land of Variegat-
ed Interests.
Chicago Recordl

(ChlcaSO RecOrd-)
The south coast of Cornwall is perhaps
more uniformly beautiful than the north
put IN the latter great tracts of sandy
Deach and dunes alternate with precipices
stVaSely grand and sometimes desoi4te
AIIef leaving Lands End for our tramp
along tne north coast we plOwed our way
along the edge of WhiteSandS BAY among
Dlue sea thlStleS, under q ScOrching sun,
ana came at mldafternOOn TO the hill
town OF St Just, IN the heart of a de-
serted mining district, arid. treeless. DUST
coated where water is carried about in
donkey carts and sold at I pence d Jar.
with parched lips We munched sweet
chocolate IN the ancient British amShi-
theater, and talked with an old examiner
about the emigration and the tin mines
l,4cV feet deep, sometimes a mile out un-
der the sea.
At Morvah, stin in the desert. we went
from house TO house asking for tea, and at
last sat dlScOnSOlately on the church steps
until we could pluck up strength to 90
on, JealesS- At the GuFnard's Head we
Jared royalty one night for shillings
apiece, and the next morning set out for
SE-IVes- The day was a series of losses.
w e lost our way, our cliffs, one another,
Dut at noon we found the stOFy-bOOk
WhlteWaShed stone farmhouse, with stone
nO0red kitchen, blue china window seats
and huge fireplace, hanked with a heap
or dried turZe. ceiling high. At sunset We
stood over a little clump of gray, red
rooted houses huddled between the two
shores or narrow neck Of land jutting
turty headland-St. Ives.
The next morning We scarcely recOg-
nlZed one another. Sea wind and sand and
sun had turned US purple red and swollen
our faces as if we had the humps. Our
eyes were almost invisible. With the aid
OF bottle of witch hazel, passed about
when the need was most pressing, we eX-
plOred the narrow crooked streets that
lead nowhere, the streets made uD of
steps, the arches supporting nothing, the
houses OVerarching the road the church,
whose walls have been wave beaten in
times of storm for l 900 years.
Leaving at length the house of the man
with seven wives, forty-nine bags, etc,
We ate our Cornish pasties on the road,
with lemonade purchased of a gay but
frOWsy couple, once dramatic stars, they
assured US, now devOting themselves TO
poultry raising as more profitable
Soon after this We entered upon a des-
Oldte tract of sand. extending miles along
the seaeoast. At Hales We were ferried
across a broad blue estuary from sand
beach to sand beach, and then pursued
our weary march in the lee of dunes hun
dreds of feet high, Sparsely covered with
coarse brush Sand Obliterated the road
in places. so that we literally waded in
many inches of it-this Notwithstanding
constant efforts on the part of the COM
munity to fight against il. Givithian we
passed, a mere oasis in the desert. and
near it. the ruins of a Norman church,
now only an oblong mound of sand
When at length We came out upon the
cliffs, they seemed higher and more
frightfUl than those of the south coast.
We craWled to the edge Of one huge semi
circular pit, named "Hells Mouth" We
have confused memories of dizzy heights
and coves, of sea and heathery moors
bathed in a blCCd-red sunset. OF 5TeaTy
tracts of mining country. covered with
Stag and ruined chimneys, of black mining
towns. POrtTeath and St. Agnes. Then
a ParranfoFth our courage tagged and
we combined with a very proper party or
tourists to hire a break as far dS the TiS-
ing summer resort New Quay One of
us was so inspired by the example of our
travelling companions that she put on the
remnants o. her gloves
New Quay is d clUmp Of lodging houses,
where StClid British PhiliStineS with am
pie families sit perpetually on terraces
facing the sea After an uncomfortable
night, which one of Us spent in sliding OF
horse-hair sofa. we fed. The coast be
came stin more savage. followed out into
great pillars at the BedTUthan Steps into
enormous caves at MaWgan Perth. and
after that split into long. narrow inlets
extending deep into the land. We were
driven 10 slide down and wade across
where the tide was out. Only later were
we told about quickSandS-taIeS which
chill ones spine.
At TreydnnOn farm We sat in row on
the pump trough drinking milk, while
a pompOus, black-garbed hOusekeeper di-
our way, and with il, for the first time,
cur tempers. But We stopped 10 inquire
al a SOlid-lOOking cottage, and in lieu of
details Of our trip, called his wife, who