davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1900-03-29

Russian and Venetian guipure laces in
heavy applique patterns, wrought on deli
cate net meshes, are much used by French
tallors and modistes for trimming hand
some cloth gowns In the soft pastel tints
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1900-03-29

the panel on the skirt A pretty finish
to the elbow sleeve was little double
turnover cuff of blue panne embroidered
Sleeves to these thin gowns, 1t should
be noticed, have not the same tight sim
plicity that Is expected on cloth gowns.
DAINTY TrCLJUT LEEECTo
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1900-03-29

The quarterly meeting Of the Woman s
Mission Circles of the First Baptist
Church will be held tomorrow afternoon
at the residence of Mrs. E. M Van Du-
zee, Goodrich avenue.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1900-03-29

The Woman's Home Missionary Presby-
terrain society will today hold its annual
meeting In Westminster church, Winifred
and Greenwood, West side. The morn
ing programme begins at 10, with the de-
vodonal service led by Miss Hill, follow
ed by reports Of the treasurer, secretary
and other officers; a short history of the
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1900-03-29
ST. PAUL. SOCIAL NEWS

The following st. Paul women will rep
resent the Woman's Missionary Society
of Park Congregational Church at the
annual meeting of the Minnesota branch
Of the Womans Board of Missions, to
be held April 1 at the First Unitarian
church, in Minneapolis: Mrs. w J. Dyer,
Mrs. Norval Marchand and Mrs. M. A.
Waite.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1900-03-29

| the judging is to be Done In the afternoon
or that day at the Commercial club
rooms.
Designs may be sent to the club or to
F. G. Bradbury, 9O4 Pioneer Press build
ing. chairman of the tablet committee.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1900-03-29

NV come tucked and machine stitched
ng and summer hats in straw, velvet,
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1900-03-29

From Lyons looms this season come
double-width silks, both plain and border
ed, to be used for the new knitted and
boX-plaited skirts, and circular Overdress-
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1900-03-29
NOTES AND NOVELTIES.

French milliners will continue to use
bright combinations on spring hats.
Lace waists in delicate lovely designs
will be one Of the prominent features of
fashion among evening toilettes for the
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-10-07
GOLD IN THE FALL STYLES.
women SHOW Their Allegiance to the Repub-
lican Party In Their Costumes.

Women are announcing their allegiance to
the gold standard this fall In a novel and pio-
turesque fashion. They do not faunt the
Mckinley and Roosevelt buttons with who
Republican men ornament their coats nor do
they express their anti-silver sentiments In
heated arguments on the street corners or
around the bargain tables OF department stores.
But their loyalty is unmistakable, although.
with true feminine subtlety. they have man.
aged 10 incorporate their badge OF loyalty In
their costumes. The world Of fashion has
rallied TO McKinley's side, and has decreed that
a costume not showing the CLINT, of gold some
where Is beyond the pale OF good style.
Gilt trimming Of every width and prioe,
plain. striped. and lowered. gold lace. gilt
buttons. Rirdles, vests, everything. in short,
that woman could devise, has been manufac-
tured this fall to make the campaign more
brilliant than solomon in all his glory.
One advantage OF this method Of advertising
party feeling Is that a woman may grade her
enthusiasm as she does her mourning. by the
amount she wears. Intense feeling may be
Indicated by a predominance of gilt. a Zouave
jacket Of wrought gold embroidery. and as
much gilt introduced into the rest OF the sovn
as good taste would allow, Threads OF gold
through the dress, or the presence OF gilt In
the trimming, would indicate allegiance, but OF
q milder type. while ribbons showing just a
CLINT of gold might be taken as the acknowl-
edgment Of the political faith Of a timid woman.
Mugwurnps could wear a trimming half silver
and half gold.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-10-07

In such a conspicuous manner. But the con-
trast II an effective one with almost every color,
and 40 generally becoming II tastefully arranged
that our modistes will be at fault II they disturb
this charming feature Of decoration into an
exaggerated snowy folly. Very little Is left
to the Imagination In the present display OF
Its manifold uses, and yet there can be no limit
70 the possible modes Of treating or kind Of
trimming which Is so variable In width and
style az this same gold.
Although those who will eventually wear
the latest, most fashionable gowns are still
lingering In tho country. the spirit OF unrest
over the development Of winter fashions is In
the air, and women are all seeking TO discover
the special novelty which will stamp their
gowns as new. 1t will prove to be a more
difficult problem than usual. possibly as the
new features are not very clearly defined, con-
sisting chiefly In varying details rather than
shy newly specified lines. Perhaps the one
most distinguishing feature Is the gold which.
with al It's other uses, Is applied TO the new
laoes in a most decorative manner. Gold
thread Is wrought into the designs hling in
the spaces with pretty lace stitches which
Glisten d~elicately here and there and serve to
deepen the cream tint Of the lace braid. Gold
cloth In the form OF mrdalions is also inset
In tho all-over lace5 used for entire gowns
a. II the lace alone were not elegant enough
t. crafty wom1n's extravazant Ideas. Gold
thread is especially effective in the Renaissance
laceS, and in some other varieties Of lace n
narrow gold braid Is used. Medallion shaped
pieces of hand-painted mousseline de sole
are another form OF adding variety TO hand
some lace, and while they cannot be commended
AZ an additional beauty. superimposed deco
ration is one Of Fashions fancies which must
be recognized.
The s~pnngled gown for this season is either
OF gold or silver paillettes closely set in cream
or black not as you fancy. The mass Of glitter
Is sometimes broken by silk embroidery In
antique colorings very delicate in tint or fes-
tooned designs carried out in velvet ribbon,
but the eject IL hashy beyond anything we
have had in that particular line. Nets well
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-10-07

homogeneous as they may seem for winter
earb they are none the less in evidence. and
beautifully tinted velvet leaves are also used.
entire hats, the iridesoent C%oloring being esps-
cially attractive, and when the head ofthe bird
is used no other trimming Is required except
possibly a osctte Of velvet.
1oques Of sable arc very smart providing
they harmonic with the costume. and the
combinations Of fur. velvet and lace are eI-
tremely pretty. Toques vary In shape Of course.
but the tendency is toward a broad round and
rather fat shape, one Of which il quite fat IN
AZ each side. 4 pretty model Of this kind is
made u pale gray cloth embroidered with steel
beads the odge being finished with chinchilla
fur widening toward the bach. where a long steel
buck 10 Is the finish
A three-cornered shape which seems 10 be
a ~tavorlte turns back from the face al each
side and IL trimmed with a large bow and buckle
directly IN. front, or two largo pompOnS at one
side. Made OF black velvet with a brim COM
posed entirely Of folds. II is extremely stylish
viii the pomrons and a large black velvet
bow at the back The Empire turPan made
Of fur Is another popular hat reaching well
over the face The brim ia full, or rather thick
and round. and lace or mousseline embroidered
=, sof F9 o6d. Is al d ISa EaG RfSE5Sity 9n p G lais; fa nm xit II
alarge buckle and a velvet bow.
Whatever. the style OF the hat, the outline
Is broad and low, tho material soft and pliable.
and another thing which Is generally noticeable
is that the hat either turns up directly at the
SNOWY buckles and sold embroidery are very
conspicuous among the hat trimmings, and
there seems 10 be quite ms many bTims faced
with chiffon folds and made entirely Of chiffon
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-10-07

also very pretty, and again the yoke may have
deep points all around the skirt. This Is es-
pecally pretty for black lace made up with
black mousseline or crepe de- chine. the skirt
falling in narrow plaits between these points,
The gold thread with which the lace design
ia traced adds effectively to the contrast. and
still another feature OF the new laces Ia the
combination of silk and velvet in applique
effects outlined with q small silk cord. Some
thing quite new In the decoration Of these thin
gowns Ia the use Of lace rosettes set around the
hem Of the skirt in graduated runs. three
being sufficient. Black ~rosettes with the gold
centres are very pretty. The tucking in nous
seine de sole and other Gauzy fabrics 1. some-
times done in chain machine stitching with
rather coarse silk. Fine black ChantIly net in
dainty patterned stripes, made up respectively
over black tulle and white silk. the former in
full ~plaitings around the feet, Is a most charm
ing evening dress with black velvet shoulder
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-10-07

on the edge. and dotted over with small polka
dots. land embroidered with silk Of the same
color The bodice below the bolero Is finely
tucked all around In groups 81 three. Joined
together with a fine herrtngboue sti'ch.
The modes Of dress trimming are Of every
kind and condition between machine stitching
and hand embroidery done In gold thread, but
the embroidery which matches tho aown Is
considered tho most desirable Heavy Lace
dyed 20 match. or a few shades lighter than the
cloth. is a distinctive feature Of the dressy
gowns. whether the cloth islight or dark in color
lace In a light shade n brown m n dark brown
cloth Is very effective, but II the gown Is pale
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-10-07

Jacket. One NJ the peculiar whims Of fashion
il "A combination of net and cloth. which has
at least the recommendation Of novelty,
strong hlacL net f. the foundation Of the dress.
and cut strips NJ cloth with raw edges, and a
ittle more than AN inch vide, stripe this net
over the entire Eovr. The bands are stitched
on at one side. leaving the other edge loose
and a space the width Of a seam between them.
A ruche Of net finishes the hem Of the skirt
and the bands encircle the sleeves. A simple
house gown Of light cloth shows V-shaped
designs over skirt and waist outlined with bands
OF velvet.
The special feature Of the new short coats
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-10-07

straps and a bunch Of bright flowers at one
side Of the low-cut neck.
Fashion sometimes clings to a fancy like a
vine to a trellis. bringing IL out from time to
time in ever-varying phase, and surely the
little bolero is a pertinent illustration OF this.
II comes back 70 US with great regularity re-
invested with some novelty in the shades Of
difference. yet pretty much the same old bolero,
and ia quite a. much in evidence among the
very latest gowns as II has been for a year past.
Dressy cloth gowns arc made with the bolero
bodice, which is Away, picturesque II we'll
made, giving a sort OF free and easy grace to
the figure. II has almost as many possibilities
as the separate waist, and can be made 10 trans
form a simple gown into something quite pro-
%tenttous, and especially suited to the mid
season between summer and winter when a
little extra covering Is necessary. A very
short bolero Of cloth In some color in harmony
or In pretty contrast with the gown Is worn
by Parisians, giving a new touch, some warmth
and added chic 10 the summer costume made
10 do service in the early autumn. With fou-
lard gowns boleros are quite the thing from
the Parisian's standpoint, and perhaps the
~prettiest bolero to wear with light frocks is
the one made OF black taIeta silk, very short,
like the cloth one, and made with the new high
standing collar rolling over its own width,
mail revers and bell sleeves. Narrow bands
OF silk piped with gold form the cuffs. IL fsstens
at one side with a gold buckle, and gold pipinss
finish the DOLLAR. This a is very jaunty little
makeshift for early autumn, and It might
moderate the New York wouan's propensity
for rushing the seasons II she were to adopt
It as a means Of uniting the two. 1t is double
breasted, and as il fastens closely under the
chin, IL Ia more useful than pride as a practical
garment for cool days
The bolero a. a separate outside garment is
only one mail item on the list Of les variations.
which, added 10 the many. makes this one Of
the most useful means Of giving variety to our
gowns There are boloros Of lace run with
gold thread, bolcros of gold cloth with applique
lace designs around the edge. and boleros Of
the gown material. plain or tucked and variou,ly
decorated with embroidery. One pretty model
in a dull pale blue cloth has q short bolero OF
the cloth. tucked In waved lines one inch apart
running around. the tucks being simply a cord.
they are 40 narrow. and finished around the
edge with an inoh-wide band Of cloth stitched
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-10-07

and colohngs. besides all the stripes and soft
plain Louis'ne ribbons used so much in the
summer.
Conspicuous among the new wraps Is the
long Empire coat Of pale tan cloth. The yoke
effect is deep and square, the skirt laldin stitched
down plaits all around. the sleeves. bell shape
With a turn back Gun, and the colarMgh {unI. og
over with IA gttle fare. Three capes graduating
in size fall over the shoulders
Nothing in dress accessories il more notable
than the fancy belts seen in the shops. They
ara Of all width, and colors, and each ana
every one Is we'll covered with embroidery.
IN gold, and silver tlsld or beads. and oolored
silks. ANYTHING which ingenuity or taste
can devise will surely pass muster in this par
ticllar line Of dress. Wide belts Of black silk
elastic fully four inches wide are dotted all
over In small designs Of steel or gnld beads,
and fastened with a buckle 50 large that II
C2u he eS asTAor P" 5elt ioF are a 9snafpap iiii With rings
at the ends and tied with a bow OF ribbon.
Gird!es Of black taneta SIX ana pahne are
they round w and down into decided points
I'm front and are quite "a wide as those worn
Years ago. Rows OF gold braid trim the, upper
edged with gold braid. Is the hhlSh down the
front.
The latest French jewelry Is In hsnd-beaten
gold. Classical designs decorate the surface
hordered with beaten gold, and the novelty
In long chains Is seen in hand-chased gold Win
out any jewels.
The new fur muf Is long, fiat. entirely With
out stinening, and has two rows OF tails, one
al the TOP and one across the lower edge.
The plain black stocking seems TO be losing
favor and IN its place are embroidered lace
like novelties. and colors IN every tint and
shade To be- quite w 10 date and altogether
swell, the stockings and SHOES must match
the gown. for house and evening wear,
The latest petticoats are made OF satin fou-
ards. glossy and soft.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-10-07

pDFSFNNIUU.
lace combined with tucked mouSseline de
sole forms some Of the prettiest thin gowns
among the imported novelties. The mousse
line IN pale pink or blue. unless white Is pre-
ferred. and velvet matching the tint, are effect
lively used as a finish In bands across the ends
OF the sash and for ~rosettes and bolt Lursuil
gtiipure Ia the popular lace for gowns Of this
description and It is used as a part Of the ma
teril Of the gown rather than as a simple trim
ming. For example, II may form a yoke around
tho hips extending into two deep points. one
at the back and one IN front. with a deep yoke
or bolero on the bodice. Wide bands Of lace
~pointine we'll I'D into the skirt all around are
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-10-07
Present Fashions Marked by
Good Taste.
GLITTER OF GOLD IN DRESS.
Predictions of Radical Changes
Ia Styles Yet UnfulfiiIed.

Gold Applied to the New Laces for Decorative
Use,-The spsngied Gown 81 the Season
VERY Pretty Thin Gowns Among the I'm
ported Noveiuss-suu New Forms OF the
Bolero Seen and Some OF Them Useful as
we'll as Ornamental -Modes OF Dress Trim
ming Many and varled-TsshionsbIe Colors
aud Their ombinatious-Ne short Goats.
The decided radical changes which were
prophesled by foreign fashion writer's in mid
summer as sure 10 revolutjonize the autumn
modes have not matnrialized among the early
importatIons Of Partisan confections. so We
can look for NJ least oue mora season Of artistic
gowning without any deforming protubersnces
To be sure. there are som dimlnutive mani
festations Of the advent OF bustlcs in the form
OF NAL pads or a wire arranged in the skirt
q few inches below the waist line at the back
IN give the eject Of a small hustle, but these are
not obtrusiye as ye, and We can hope for the
redeeminR influence Of good taste 10 keep
them well within artistically defined limits.
Every whore there are evidences Of a growing
tendency toward refinement In dress. and tho
tids has been well set against vulgar eNaggera-
lions for some time. Extravaganza IL I'm
questionably on the increase with the more
beautiful materials. exquisite laccs and gorgeous
trimmings. but tho outlines were never more
artistic or the c~olorlngs and combinations
more delicate and refined. The one element
which threatens 10 disturb these desirable
conditions Of fashion Is the glitter Of gold which
dominates the new gowns, cloaks and hats
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-10-07

Fromfhs Boston Er,ning TrGnSeripL
The new negroes are not all spoiled, thank Heaven!
There are some perfect coovS among them who are so
obliging and well trained that every one wants them.
The Government ought 10 pension a cook after a NE
time OF faithful service 90 her country. She can dis
count all the chefs In the world In her fried chicken
and beaten biscuit and ghlnho Such good cooks
weep of Indigestion and doctors bills and make homes
happy, and contribute almost IS much 10 4 family's
10y as a band new baby, and II III y do give us more
Tried diSheS-no Southcrnef ever has dyspepsia
JEANETTE ROBINSON MURPHY.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-10-07

we'll as cloth, and in this instance the under
sleeves are OF gold embroidered silk. A new
edition o. the tucked black taffeta coat is the
next model, q stitched band OF silk finishing the
embroidered with gold are the features Of
another jacket, while the last is a good model
for the wide iwiled camel s hair costumes TO
be worn so much for morning and travelling.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-10-07

around the upper part which is Joined TO the
lower with bands caught together with an
open herrinEbone stitch seen again at the
hem. The bodice is trimmed with gray lace
matching the material.
The deep founce covered with tucks is tho
feature Of the next costume. two bands Of
cloth embroidered with polka dots Of silk head
ing the nounce. Cloth bands also trim the
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-10-07
FRILLs or FASHION.

Hats. rather than gowns, have nrst place
10 the seasons fashions since summer hats
are sure to pr resent a faded as we'll as faded
appearance when the first cool days come
IL may be a simple or a dinlcult matter ia
choose. for there Is every kind, shape and con-
ditlon Of hat staring you In the face, This
Ia more OF a literal truth than ever, now that
summer materials seem to be so essential a
part OF su INNER millinery and there is every
possible combination Of velvet and flowers.
fur, chiffon and lace in sight,
1t Is hardly possible as yet to detect the spec
ial shape which will lead. but fashionable mil
liners tell you that the gypsy hat is the thing
to have. II has a decided crown. and a medium
wide srim something like a sailor except that
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-10-07

this season il I'm the collar, which has very
much less Care than formerly 1t is high in
the back, but turns NOR" closely on itself and
spread- ouf lon fat effect ON the shoulders.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-10-07

and quite as many airy decorations OF tulle as
in tho early summer.
One point in the ~selection Of a becoming
hat which is too rarely considered Is the style
Of couture. The hair should form q framework
for the face fallins in a loose but perfectly tidy
pun or roll, yet not a set ponpadour turning
back from the face and especially the forehead,
where on the contrary the hair should fall
In graceful curves A soft pompadour with
no pun inside IL the prettiest, most stylish
and decidedly most becoming with the new
autumn hats
Fall white chiffon boas edged with large
soft black cheniles, long strands Of the chenille
forming the ends. are worn in the evening.
These we're launched In tho spring, but they
are more generally In evidence now.
Louisine armure Is one Of the new silks and
being glossy. soft and durable is very desirable
for waists
Panne ribbons In sash widths and all the pale
eolors are among the novelties at tho ribbon
counter, where the variety lie charming. There
are lowered ribbons. RIBBONS in Persian patterns
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-10-07

during the coming season as they have been
during the past. Great varieties OF an-over
laoes are shown In black as we'll as cream and
white, and for the matron a black lace gown
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-10-07

and colonngs. besides all the stripes and soft
plain Louisine ribbons used 50 much in the
summer.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-10-07

The latest French iewelry Is In hsnd-beaten
gold. Classical designs decorate the surface
bordered with beaten gold, and the novelty
H. i"ng chains IS seen in hand-chased gold With
out any jewels.
The colored American., 1900-10-20
NOTICE.

Madam q A. Finnie Mack will open
class this fall by request. The class
will open with five ladies II there are
any others desir' us of Joining, cah OF
address her at 1910 Vermont ave. n w.
The class will open October the ID d.
Would like to have all to begin a. he'I
together as possible. Office hours from
. to 10 q. m. and Q to 4 and to . p. m'
Iron County register., 1900-06-07

people seems to be due more to the
native conservatism of mankind than
to adherence to principle for its own
sake. 1t is to be feared that we have
reached the time foretol1 by Thomas
Jefferson in his '.Notes on Virginia.:
.'The spirit OF the times may alter,
will alter. Our ralers will become
corrupt, our people careless.
1t will not then be necessary to resort
every moment to the people for sup
port. They will be forgotten, there
fore, and their rights disregarded.
They will forget themselves; but in the
sole faculty of making money, and will
never think of uniting to effect due re-
spect to their rights. The schackles,
therefore, which shall not be knocked
off at the conclusion of this war, will
be remain on us long. will be made
heavier, till our rights shall revive
or expire in convulsion. THE Senti-
mel of Liberty.
Iron County register., 1900-06-07
A Question of Principle.

There is now before the American
people question second in import.
ance to none that has ever occupied
the attention of the statesmen In this
or any other country.
This question is, Shall the United
States remain true to the principles
which have made this the greatest
nation in the world; or shall princi.
pies of republicanism be repudiated,
and the principles of imperialism be
adopted in their stead.
1t may be objected by some that this
is a political question, and that being
such, it has no proper place in the
columns of The Sentinel of Liberty.
Let US see.
This is indeed a political question,
though not yet party question, though
it may ere long become such. But
every question pertaining to govern
ment affairs is political. Slavery was
once political question. Prohibition
is still a living political issue; while
only few years age the maintenance
of the Sunday laws was the supreme
issue of state political campaign in
California.
These questions are cited merely be-
cause in each is involved a vital prin-