The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1900-04-29

| pulveriZed stone-the natural paving IN
| the one street of the town.
The only cheerful spot here is the
picturesque club house, standing high
up on the shore, overlooking the beau
| tiful lake. OH the scenery is all right
From the wide verandah OF the quaint
little club house you can look out over
the clear water, sleeping peacefully be-
tween the grand old hills that rise alb
ruptly on either hand. Far away the
lake narroWs to a river, and is lost to
view among the distant dim noun
tains. Now the wind seems to have
| sObbed itself to sleep. The sun is
sinking behind the hill as We go down
the steep bluff board the steamer Aus
| tralian and sail away. Our new-fOund
friends, jolly good fellows, at the club
house, are waving US adieu.
AS We sit down TO our first meal on
the waters of the mighty Yukon. we
observe that beer has bounded from
| 70 cents to $1.50 bottle. The lake has
| pinched out and we are now riding
| the swift waters of the majestic river.
How they hit these river bOatsl This
one has powerful engines, and they are
| banging them for all they are worth
I think she is trying to shake US to
sleep.
Jim has just come up from the en-
| CINE room, and down from the pilot
house, and he assures me that this boat
is dead safe" Built in Pittsburg, she
is all steel, lis feet long, twenty six
feet beam, with vater-tight .compart-
ments, electric lights and two big
| searchlights that are constantly sweep
ing the shore on either side Of the
river. These are necessary, however,
only for an hour or two at midnight,
and then only in the shadow of the
hills, for it is never very dark here in
the summer.
The manager of the company pro-
claims to his patrons that: In addi-
ton to carrying a Canadian master,
the company has two thoroughly ex-
! perienced swift-water American pilots
on each of their boats"
A Threefcld Captaincy.
And they do. A Canadian captain
sits at the head of the table, bat YAM
kee runs the law Fhe former TO sat-
[ isfy the boat, the latter presumably
10 satisfy the passengers. 1t is not
that the Canadians lack intelligence OF
training, but they are sailors of the
lakes, while the Yankees come from
the ever-changing Missouri, tbs
| treacherous Mississippi or the swift
Columbia Naturally, there is a good
pilots must have a captains license,
each is called captain, the result is
that there are -hres captains IN a
boat. and each feels that ne IS the cap
tin, but he is lot.
BY and by, when the Canadians get
used to the twist of the trail and the
speed of the current, they may take
charge of the pilot house, but, as Jim
puts it: You want a swiftwateT
Willie at the wheel on these curves
ana rapids"
Now the winds begin to cry anc
moan The ship lists and leans far 10
the leaward. We are passing the IA
nous Windy Arm. 1t is we'll named.
Far away somewhere. in a remote
corner of the shio-perhaps up in the
pilot house or down in the engine
room, or in the stewards BOULDER
hear a woman's voice singing with
out accompaniment, Swe9Ely, plain
lively: Far Away-Far Away"
That was the last l knew until the
sun came in at my little window and
warmed my nose. The sleeping is glor-
iOus on the upper Yukon
We hurried through our breakfast so
as TO be out at the Canon. We have
slept through beautiful Lake Marsh,
and are now in the kinks and curves of
rent here runs three to four miles an
hour, tee boat makes fifteen, so we
are gliding along between the softly
shaded hills just fast enough 10 make
it interesting. There is no snow to be
seen. no mountains near: neither is
there valley or bottom lands. Just the
rolling hills that seem to part to let
the cool, green river slip through.
Sometimes the hills are barren, save
for the short grass, sometimes covered
with a thick growth of low spruce.
Here and there fires have destroyed the
forests, and there is a field of flowers
Wherever the forest fire sweeps the
hills the beautiful fireweed grows and
blooms And thus nature hastens TO
hide her scars.
No Flotsam on the Stream.
The river is unlike any other river I
have ever seen. There is nothing float
ing on the face of it, no drift alcng the