The evening times., 1900-10-18
EADs FOR EAsTIDIoUs FELLOWS.
Latest Tips ON the Correct Dress for
Fall md Winter.


the shops where mems furnishings are
sold are ablaze with the rich colorings SO
much in vogue this season. Purple, Grim
son, and gold. to which are to be added
tans, reds, greens, and greys, are the
coiors that everywhere greet the eye. In
suitings many new designs are exhibited
by the constructors of mems apparel. AS
far as suits go the changes rather accen-
tuate than depart from the models that
have become familiar during the past sum
mer.
Sack coats will be square -shouldered,
short, and rather cIose-htting The side
seams will follow the lines OF the body,
and the back and front will fall as straight
as possible The front of the Jacket will
not be cut away as much as formerly. and
the four button style viii be as popular
as the hreebutton style. Waistcoats VIII
be single breasted, and trousers of the
peg-top form, and in many cases with lib
eraI allowance for the turn up.
The covert coat has lost none Of its
popularity, and will be very conspicuous
this fail. 1t will be rather full and short,
and have the strapped seams and the
stitched cuffs Raglans are TOO popular.
They will hardly be considered by the man
who declines to accept his fashions from
the mob. The new overcoat will be
elean-cut, straight-falling, roomy, single
breasted box" with side pockets and vel
vet collar. Raglans in waterproof fabrics
will be worn quite extensively, and the IN
yerness viii continue to be the fayorite
evening coat So far as odd shapes and
peculiar trimmings go, the tailor has
shown his good taste by adhering 10 the
most simple forms.
From London comes the suggestion of
a fashionable autumn suit, consisting of
a dark grey REFER single breasted coat.
cut with square corners in frcnt and
without Sits either at sides or in back.
A double breasted waistccat " II be worl
with it. Should the coat be double
breasted, however, the waistcCat wiz be
single-breasted, and vice versa for this
seems to have become the settled rule
The trousers, of which most men order
two pair, to be worn alternately will be
cut fairly loose to the leg, and creased
back and front as pronouEcedly as ever
Many men Will undoubtedly cling to the
flannel suit through the autumn The
patronage of the ultra-smart set seems
to have settled on the darg grey or dark
blue variety, with rather faint vertical
white lines, woven five-eigF1~as CT an inch
apart. Probably more CT the coats viii
be worn double-b breasted than has ben
waistcoats viii be flannel ali around in
stead OF having the usual lining material
nthe back
London correspondent says that ttere
has been evidence during the past few
weeks of a return to favor OF the wais.-
coat slip. II was at one time confined
strictly TO single-breasted wais a S
and looked upon as an impossi deco
ration to the double breasted waistcoat
but several smart men have been s en-
wearing IL with that variety of garment
lately Now that the wa.s-cCat is cut s
much higher than formerly, the effect is
coed, ana-by no means over-dressy
The slip is OF white twill and is
starched but not glazed. 1t shows above
the waistccat collar. and is, Of course,
carried right around the neck. II dos
not, however, follow the front lapel down
to the buttonhole. but finishes where it
joins the underneath one. 1t is at pres
ent confined almost exclusively to wear
ers of the black morning coat, but hs S
been sported in one or two rare instances
with a frock coat, notably at a recent
stage production 1t is never worn with
the lounge coat
1t will be the custom this fall To wear
and to carry gloves. They are doHned
very early in the fall. The heavy red
cape affairs with spear backs and heavy
saddlers stitching IN red thread, and with
a large bone button at the wrist, will be
by far the smaFtest glove. These gloves
should be a little large, and should be
worn unbuttoned and turned over on the
wrist on warm days. In all gloves except
the cheapest the button viii take the
place of the unsightly metal clasp. The
weil-dressed man viii wear gloves that
button, and not gloves that snap like a
purse.
With formal day dress, that is for
church, Sunday afternoon. and week day
afternoons, glace gloves of light
tan, and of q yellow tan shade viii be
worn. These will have self backs The
slate suedes viii remain very popular
The new styles have plain backs and but
tons at the wrist. One rather slightly
stS-pe shown is a light gray suede glove
with stitching on the back made up of an
outer row of self and fine single centre
row of white.
Very few changes have been made in
hat forms The smart halter seems TO
be very conservative, for their blocks
differ but slightly from those of last
season. The stiff hat has a very full ana
high crown, with a tightly rolled fiat set
brim. The silk hat shows quite curve
or bell The soft hat for wear with din
neT jackets is made in black, and has a
tight rolling brim, and a very wide ribbed
ribbon. Opera hats are made of ribbed
silk, and differ very little from last
years model. Indications point to the al
pine shapes of hat being continued il felt
Wealth Of color and design VIII make
the cravat Of the season of 1890 memorable
for years to come. disposition is man
ifested in some quarters towards a mod
ifcation of the riotous color and pattern
schemes. Some OF the very latest designs
of the square variety are made in glossy
rich unlined silk of a pronounced COLOR
blue green or crimson, but with a per
fectly plain ground not ribbed On this
q modest pattern is woven consisting Of
groups Of four small square spots de-
sign of this character adds rather te the
of tying, but properly dealt
with looks very neat and smart. For
those who eschew coiors. the same ce-
spots. This description applies only to
the sailor knot style of crayat The as
cot retains its boldness Of pattern and
color. while the bow does not of course
lend itself to any such design.
1t is rather curious that a similar mod
ification of pattern carried out on exactly
the same lines, is finding its way into
socks So far, however, it is strictly con-
fined to the black variety.
Bat wing ties seen in the stores are of
neat effects in dark green, dark purple
and black, with small set figures. Four
in-hand ties are shown IN neat stripes,
black and white black and red and black
ard gold. and in combinations. This era
vat when tie1 shows a small long two
inch knot Standard colors with the
fleur-de-lis are also on view.
Square pointed collars with a quarter
inch opening are from 1-2 to "a inches
high, never higher. There is no doubt
that the square pointed collar is, and is to
he 1,pir off