The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1900-03-29
LAST HOURS IN SEVILLE.


The Government Factory Getting
Down at the Heel for Want of the
Hraviiy-Taxod Product of Cuba
where Six Thousand Carmens Cos
sip, GiggIe and Intrigue While ROLL
ing Cigarettes with MarvelOus Dex-
terity-What Gny Grisettcs Are 10
Paris, the Cigarreras Are to spain
They Are as Full of Mischief ms the
Carmen Of Long Ago.
Especial Correspondence of the Journal
and Courier.)
Seville, Spain, Feb. 16.-The day is at
hand when we must bid adieu to Seville
and move on to other scenes-with sor-
row be it confessed, for there is not an
other city on the face of the earth which
possesses SO potent though Intangible a
charm Just what it is that thus fasci-
mates the stranger and seems to bind
him closer the longer he stays, nobody
attempts to explain 1t cannot be the
climate, delightful though 1t is, because
there are many other places where the
bright, brief southern winter presents
greater perfection of weather. Perhaps
1T is the SAVIOR of antiquity, the glamour
of departed greatness, the romance and
tragedy of Goths and Romans, Moors
and Spaniards, who have successfully
played their few-century parts and
passed into the Land of Shadows, each
leaving traces behind SO plain that he
who runs may read them; and maybe
the spice of peril in daily life, especially
to hated Americans, adds to the attrac-
tion.
BY the way, the best time to visit
southern Spain is in the early spring;
because in summer the heat is intense
in autumn floods are liable to be trou-
blesome, and in winter the marble floors
and absence of fires sometimes render
the great rooms damp and comfortless.
But 1t is infinitely better to come at
any season than not to come at all.
Whatever time of year your inevitable
visit to the Paris exposition occurs, you
will be we'll repaid for continuing your
tourney down through the Iberian Pc
lIOuRu 10 llC gu YOU uluSl Cul-
tail 'gay Paree' by half In this part
of Spain February is like New England
May. Roses are blooming everywhere,
orange trees bearing flowers and fruit
on the same stem; bananas. dates and
figs hang temptingly within reach, and
such grapes as no northern sun can
ripen may be had for the gathering
The Spanish peasant is very poor and
unthrifty indeed who does not contrive
to own few feet of soil in which to
grow a choice Malaga grape vine. He
refrigerates his crop, so to say, by erect
ing over the vines a cane-stak arbor,
upon which he suspends the picked
clusters for winter use. Hanging for
months in the current of cool wind, the
pale-green punches remain as plump
and full of flavor as when first hung |
up, until grapes ripen again. In this |
simple manner they are preserved for |
She winter market so that in Spain |
Ne is never an 'off season. for |
s.
rs easy to see why Seville is so in |
A,ely hot in midsummer. The i'm
Mediate surroundings are fiat and |
marShy, and the encircling mountains. !
lllOuEH NOllIcllully ClleCllNt III tllS
landscape, with their lights and shad-
oWs afA dim, blue line blending with
the horizon, are too far off to benefit the
city by their breezes. 1t is said to be an
actual fact that the favorte way of |
cooking an omelet in Seville is to ex-
pose it few minutes to the monday
rays of the summer sun. But then, the
houses are built on purpose for this
kind of weather. and one suffers no in
from the heat, if he takes
life easily as the natives do. The old
Moors were wise in their generation
and prepared for hot weather; and
though it is more than six hundred
years since Seville was taken from
them, their style of architecture is still
faithfully copied. OF all the sights of
the town, the Moorish patios are most
You find imperfect speci-
mems of them farther north--at Grena-
la, Toledo and even Madrid, but Seville
3 pre-eminently the place where the.
patio is at it's best Even the ordinary
houses are Oriental in plan and admir-
IDLY fitted to resist the Scorching heats
If summer There are patioss of all
lies and degrees of splendor, from the
several marble paved court-yards of
he newest hotel, to the meanest and
lirtiest in the old Jewish quarter.
N, +L;xr~, A.