Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-07-14
Bewitching Toilets for Hot Weather
Wear.
ECRU MUSLIN And LACE INSERTIONS
New Sleeves Have Puff at Elbow
or Shoulder.
CYCLING AND OUTING GOWNS


PARIS. July ). 1900
The airy. fairy Lillian type in many and
bewitching varieties Is with US this season.
Never before have the gowns of white been
so dainty and artistic in design. The
flimsiest of materials are favored rather
than the heavy piques, whose reign two
seasons ago spotted the beaches OF the sea-
side resorts with what looked at a distance
like graceful sea birds. The summer girl
this season looks like delicate white flow
err, an orchid. perhaps, being the flower
most representative of her type. White
lawns, white Swisses, white organdies and
white muslinS of every sort, from silk to
the finest cotton, are made for morning,
afternoon and evening wear. and with these
are combined beautiful laces, whose value
varies with the income of the owner of the
gown.
Neglige gowns of white. besides having
the advantage of being cooler than co!ored
ones. are vastly more becoming to most
women. There is nothing that well sets
off the face as a touch of white. For neg
lige gowns nothing can be pretter than the
softer qualities of white made up into loose
Greek robes with flowing sleeves and high
set girdles that are in measure suppressed
ing the comfortable kmono.
sweetly Pretty This.
I noticed a pretty specimen of the white
muslin gown yesterday afternoon. Its wear
er was one of a party in the courtyard of
the Palace des Beaux Arts at the EXPOSE
ton. The fiuttering, diaphanous white of
the ladies' gowns made a pretty contrast
to the green of the palms and other plants.
The garment was of ecru muslin. finished
at the bottom of the skirt with two narrow
tucked flounces edged with Valenciennes
lace. The bodice itself was trimmed with
veinings of insertion and frills edged with
the lace.
The skirts of all the light gowns are quite
simple They vary in style from those set
in narrow vertical tuckS and broad box
paits to those made with the simple fiounce
or hem-fnished skirt The soft and admir-
ably fitted appearance of some of the skirts
is due to plaitings put on underneath and
only opening out about the lower part of
the skirt.
Boas of lace and chiffon are ornamental
accessories to many of the more fanciful
summer toilets for evening wear. They are
not much of protection from drafts, nor
are they intended to be. since their mission
is purely ornamental one A novel col
larette of white accordion-plaited mousse
line de sole was worn by pretty
actress who was a conspicuous figure at
the Auteuil steeplechase. A novel border
of peacock feathers edged the collar, and
knots of purple flowers set in the meshes of
the mousSelne de sole gave 1t a handsome
finish. Shawl-shaped wraps of diaphanous
material made to fit snugly over the
shoulders and then to spread out below in
such a way as to afford ample surface for
a wide, ornamental border of ribbon velvet,
lace applique or putting of the material.
Changes in Sleeves.
The most notable change in fashion is
that of the sleeve: the fullness of a year
or two is to be transferred from the upper
to the lower part of the sleeve. Pulled
sleeves, with the pun at the elbow the
shoulder. are frequently worn. but these are
not wal tfx-o
wide at or little below the elbow and
showing underneath puffed sleeve of
white of some contrasting material.
These bloused sleeves are very comfortable.
and the snowy wilderness of the lace or
muslin undersleeves gives touch of chic
and brightness to an otherwise monotonous
costume The lace undersleeveS full
and plain, but those of chiffon or fine white
muslin are both tucked and plated. The
dressmakers are designing some very &C.
centric sleeves on the new order, but 1t is
not probable these will be generally worn
until fall.
Graceful scarf draperies are features OF
many summer costumes. On the hote,
piazza. at seashore or mountains, the light
lace or gauze scarfs, adjusted carelessly
about the head shoulders, frame the
fece picturesquely and effectively.
Gowns for Royalty.
The Duchess of Connasght, who is one of
the most stylish Of English royalties. has
just had a very handsome summer bodice
completed. 1t is made with a plain. seam
less back. which. below the waist. is round
ed off and Joined by single side piece. In
the front the bodice fits smoothly over a
darted lining and is pointed in front. The
silk vest is tucked from collar to waist,
where it tapers to a narrowness that gives
the appearance of slenderness to very
natroniy waist. Three bands of velvet
trim the waist and are united in front by a
jeweled ornament The tucked collar is also
trimmed with bands Of velvet Underneath
the upright collar is applied a wide, rolling
collar. apished with a chiffon ruching. The
sleeve is tight fitting and supplied with an
upper and under portion.
Cycling costumes are but little different
in style from those Of last year. The skirt
is sometimes open in front, sometimes open
in the back, which latter is more graceful