New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1900-09-23

only tentative as yet but in the main all is set
tied and maid or matron may select her new
garb with the pleasing certainty that she will
be up to date for nearly half year
Among the established facts the return of
black silk 10 favor is Of large Importance. Black
silk is. like Dot in THE Cricket the Hearth
so "eminently satisfactory" 1t wears we'll.
looks well and is almost invariably correct
But the black silk of to-day is not TO be con-
founded with that OF earlier years. The crisp
ness and shine have departed and it glories
now in sOftness OF weave and lustre. for which
gratitude is due to the sartorial powers that be.
since artistic effect and economy both are served
thereby.
OF the tailored gown one no longer needs to
speak Like the poor, it is with always. The
tailor maid should be grateful to the designer OF
garments. for her new coats short, long, demi-
| length. close fitting and half fitting. grace
full in all their outlines and all equally chic.
| She should have short bOxcoat for driving OF
| to wear to the paddock; a loose fronted coat,
| close in the back, for acknowledgement this
| coat NAV be long of three-quarter length
| made of boxcloth a semi-rough surfaced
| goods; or. if she has ''nObe." she can select
! for a long coat one similar in cut TO the auto
| style and have it handsomely finished with
| straps stitching, etc, when it will be dressy
/ enough for any occasion requiring long over
! garment, or she can have such coat made uI
| OF any OF the many ralnprOOT goods now on the
market. and then be fully prepared for the
storrniest day of the season, says The Sartoria-
| Art Journal"
| Two distinct styles Of street gowns should be
] hers and as many Of each style as she will be
/ content with or can afford They are: First,
| the morning or shopping costume. that may also
| be used all day for walking about town. This
should consist of plain, close skirt neither
| short nor long and tight fitting jacket OF the
same fabric with a silk or flannel shirt waist to
wear under it. Plain fabrics will generally be
seen in costumes of this description. though
| suiting having an invisible stripe. or possibly
small check, may be used These are the colors
|! of the new plain fabrics in the order OF their
[ present popularity: Black, gray, brown, tan.
| green, duh red, blue, purple The fabrics them
selves are chosen as follows: Soft light weight
meltons cheviots, tweeds. serges, camePs hairs
| vicunas, etc. Decorations for such a costume
! should be of stitching or BRAID
| The second street castume-one suitable for
| calling afternoon teas small receptions and
| kindred functiOns-must be Of broadcloth or
| venetian in any OF the dark or light pastel
| shades The skirt must be of faultless cut. close
in fit and have a pretty sweep. The jacket
| body portion must be either tight fitting or
| show a slight blouse effect The decorations
panne or bands of Persian lamb or sable fur.
! or an elaborate arrangement of silk braid
Every maid who rides is a tailor maid when on
horseback. because her habit must be tailored,
even though a dressmaker constructs all her
other gowns. There Is very little to say the
subject, because there is little change in the