The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1900-03-29


! The unintroduced stranger must con-
{ tent himself with only passing glimpses
of these luxurious dwellings,, for the
| proud grandee guards his home with
| true Oriental jealousy There are,
| however, two or three palaces in Seville
| which are open to the public under due
| restrictions. They are splendid repre-
sentatives of their class, so far as form
and furnishings go, but being unoccu-
| pied, are like a beautiful body from
which the soul has departed. One of
| these Is San Telmo, the hereditary seat
| of the Duke of Montpensier, standing
| just back of the Goldtn Tower, on the
| bank of the Guadalquivir. Here the
late son of Louis Philippe, who married
the only sister Of ex-Queen Isabella
lived in regal state, his halls filed with
elegant furniture, costly paintings and
bronzes and his grounds containing
acres of orange groves and rare collec-
tons of tropical plants. The palace
was built for a naval school by the
companions of Columbus and dedicated
to the mariners saint in gratitude for
having been saved from tempest. Is
abella gave it to her sister, the Ouch
esse de Montpensier, and after the rev.
olution of 1S4S she and her husband
made it their principal residence. They
We're exceedingly popular in Seville.
where they did a great deal of good by
careful and discriminating charity, ana
also in the Encouragement of art and
skill of every description. San Telmo7'
marble courts and halls embellished
with arabesques and verses from the
Koran, a fountain playing in each
chamber, are beautiful beyond descrip-
ton; but being entirely without fire.
places, are altogether too chilly in win
ter to meet ones ideas of home COM
fort The walls are completely covered
with family portraits and souvenirs,
evidently greatly priced and cared for.
There are dozens of portraits of Louis
Philippe, Sister Isabella, Marie Amalia
and Nine. Adelaide, and less distin-
guished members of the two families;
with many pictures Of events in their
careers, such as the baptism and mar
riage Of the Compe de Paris, Louis Phi
lippe and his five sons on horseback,
and Princesse Alexandrine Victoire rep
resented as an angel of mercy visiting
a straving family. In one of the patios
are copies of the tombs of two Of Louis
dead children. The first child was bur
led in the royal chapel of the cathedral.
When the second died the parents nat
urally wished to lay it there also, but
it was not allowed The greatest insult
which the revolution offered them was
this refusal, in the words You are no
longer royal; the royal chapel is not for
your offspring The nearest that poor
Louis Philippe ever got to the throne, !
though he more than once figured in the :!
role of pretender, was when his daugh-
ter Mercedes was married to tho king, |
(she was the first Wife of the late AL
fOnso); on which OCCASION 1t Is said that |
he fell upon his knees befoe his own |
little girl and kissed her hand, so exalt- |
ed were his ideas OF royalty and so
Spaniard had the French |
prince become!
The palace of the Dukes of Alba, in |
the Gale de Duenas, Is semi Moorish |
and beautiful beyond compare; but be-
ng in a now questionable neighbour
hood, was long ago deserted by its aris-
tocratic owners. 1t contains eleven pa
tics, score of fountains and a thou
sand marble pillars besides a wonder
Jul garden and a forest of myrtles and I
orange trees. Over its mangnificent /
gateway the arms of the house of Alba
are emblazoned in colored tiles, encir-
,led by flags taken in many hard-fought
battles; together whit he ensigna of
he Golden Fleece and the significant
MOTTO, 'Tu in ca ego pho ea." The crest
an. angel holding in one hand the
rlnbp md In, al
sword, is supposed to typify the posi-
ion which that bulwark oft he monar-
,hy, the Noppressor of the Netherlands
md champion of the faith, maintained
G the last in the affections of his sus-
oicious and bigoted monarcA.
More interesting than either of these
'how-palaces is the very large and
stately building facing the Botanical
which the stranger at first sup
,oses to be at least royal residence.
t is the government Fabrica de Taba-
'os, from which Spain derived such
magnificent revenues while she corr
rolled the crops of Cuba, Porto Rico
ind other western possessions. 1t still
mploys several thousand hands, but
he sound of its grinding is low, as
ompared to those golden days before
he war, when Spain was at liberty to
queeze from her colonists the ultimate
entavo, The building covers more
round than the Great Pyramid, and is ,
urrounded on every side. giving no
hance for smugglers to sneak in by
ONE hidden way and carry off the pre-
ious weed in which depends so much
f Spain's wealth. The vast quad !
ange has twenty-eight interior patioa,
arge and small, and even in this year s
t poverty upwards of two million ]
ounds of tobacco will be worked up
1to snuff, cigarettes and cigars.
'asSing through the endless corridors, {
'e find them crowded with working wo- ]
zen, six thousand all told mostly
Dung, all gggling and Cabling as only
parish women can. And all the while
heir fingers are flying with inconceiv- ]
BILE rapidity. Many of them boast OF
eing able to make from seven to ten
gars in minute, andIa m told that a {
wv can do even better-but do not be-
eve it. They work "by the piece" and {
ence the hurry, which would never be {
zen If wages We're paid by the day. |
our head swims as you watch a wo- c
ian seize a strip of tobacco known as
filling" from a pile upon her table,
ON another pile she draws a wrap
En-" moistens it with a sponge, I