The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1900-01-07

Woric-renoWned botanical garden and the
splendid terraces of the Esplanade da Louis
Philippe. there are five smaller public gar
dens, all much frequented by well-dressed
crowds In the evenings. The dark little
shops Of Lisbon, with their scanty display
Of poor goods. are not worth a glance-ex-
cepting always the goldsmiths' shops, with
their queer native ornaments, card cases.
fan sticks. etc.. In filagree work. the curio-
shops. where rare articles may occasionally
be found among a world of trash. and the
pawnshops. filed to overlooking with heir
looms of an impoverished nobility. The
| markets are more interesting. with their
many varieties of fish and fruits. golden
oranges and luscious grapes. of which you
may buy more than you can carry for mil
refs to the value of an American nickel,
country produce, fat beef and mutton from
the Douro valley and especially the always
picturesque peasantry in their characteris-
tic costumes.
OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST
The hotels of Lisbon are poor as poorest,
but so beautifully hospitable are the people
that the stranger with a letter of intro
duction or with a shadow OF claim upon
anybody is sure of most gracious entertain
ment In private houses. The large English
colony lives in the elevated district known
as Buenos Ayres. while Portuguese aris-
tocracy is mostly found in the vicinity of
the Ajudea palace, the fashionable suburbs
of Alcantara and Cascaes and along the
sunny hillsides overlooking Tagus bay. OF
course, the capital is the headquarters of
the royal army, and barracks for the troops
and municipal guards are scattered all over
the city. The understood, hungry-looking
soldiers remind one of Cuba in war time,
only these are more gorgeously uniformed,
II not better fed, than was the Spanish
army In the west. The chief naval and mil
itary arsenals Of the kingdom are also here,
and attached to the former are a naval
school. not unlike our Annapolis, and n.y.
biographical Office. and a very creditable
museum Of colonial products.
Among many historic landmarks which
the visitor in Lisbon must not omit is the
ancient Convent Church dos Hierongmos,
which contains the magnificent marble
tombs of Camoens, Vasco da Cana and
the great Portuguese historian, Alexandra
Herculano. Equally important is the old
Convent Of St. Vincent, high up on hill
overlooking the far-stretching shores Of the
Tagus, which has been transformed into a
pantheon of royal tombs. Then there is
the Quintade Monserrate, where the poet
Byron used to live, which is now the win
ter home Of Lady Cooke, Viscountess de
Montserrat of London. People on our side
Of the Atlantic will remember the lady as
Tennie Claffin, formerly of New York. sis
ter of Victoria Woodruff, both famous
apostles of female suffrage.
One never wearies of the hilltop views
above Lisbon-the mighty river, running
| through semi-tropic paradise; the stately
and historic monuments of antiquity amid
| endless colonies of palaces. villas and lux
| uriant gardens. Into the latest royal pal
ace. with its pinnacles, domes and terraces,
was Incorporated a fifteenth-century con-
| vent, which for two hundred years stood
alone on Pima mountain. The Palacio Real,
another royal residence, was built by Fer
dinand Of Coburg upon the ruins of the an
cient Castillo dos Mouros, ''castle of the
dead" The royal palace Of Cintra, erected
| by John 1 in the fourteenth century, was
built upon the ruins Of Moorish castle
| by Mozarabic workmen, in a emi-Moorish
style. But among all the remarkable speci-
mems of architecture, ancient and modern,
| in the Portuguese capital. none is a really
greater work than the aqueduct which
| brings water to the city from Belas viii
| lage, twelve miles away. 1t is partly con-
Quoted under ground, but in the vicinity
| of Lisbon crosses a deep valley, which is
spanned for nearly three thousand feet by
| a bridge of thirty arches, the loftiest of
which is 240 feet high and ITO feet wide. In
the Praca das Amoeciras is large reser-
voir for supplying the many fountains Of
| the city with water
| FANNIE B. WARD.