The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-09-02
SQUADS, ORANGES, DUCKS.
SOAE DELIGHTS or tine TABLE
NOW ~ SEASON AGAIN.
How To select and Cook sGuab,- Oranges as
salad or the basis 81 sauces for Gamc
Recipes for People Who like EIaborats
PreparatIons OF Ducks Wild aud Tame.

Recipes for People Who Like Elaborats
Preparations Of Ducks wIId aud Tame.
Plump. sweet ,quabs and rartridses are now
IN market, together with all the varieties OF
game birds that como into season win The pres
ent month The squads seem 10 be the most
plentiful Of all and are Of fin" flavor. ~ this
senson no hing IL n more desirable addition 10
the menu than these smoll BIRDS prepared In
any OF the ways shat modern culinary art has
devised The housewife who is addicted to
lanenilng her inability 10 give change 10 the
da " bill Of fare cannot complain at this seasoa
when nature has been most generous In
sending tho best In the wav 81 fish and
poultry and game 20 tho stalls. In
autumn the lighter foods. such ms fsh and
game and poultry Of all sort, are more desira-
be than the heavy roHsts. soups and entrees that
come with the cold weather. Fish aud birds
and salads with oysters constitute n plentiful
programme for tho average human being who
will he healthier and hsppicr on this diet than
IL rich desserts and elaborate repasts are in-
dulgcd In.
In selecting squads the short, fat birds arc
best. with fun. round bodies and soft legs and
feet. The nesh should be pink In these young
pigeons. The Older one~ are very d ark. but at
this season the baby pigeon or squad Is The most
desirable. They are reasonable In price now, as
the birda are plentiful BrcilinV is the simplest
and most popular W. OF preparing them. tho
b rds being singed ard cleaned. the heads and
feet cut OF and the squads wiped carefully with
a wet cloth. They should be Drowned uu!5kry
on a buttered grIdIrOn, seasoned with pepper
and salt and serv d with oranges sliced They
are also broiled wrapped with bacon. which IL an
excellent plon. especially when the birds are not
very fat,
Another recipe. said 10 be 'even better. calls
for their preparation in this way: Select p pair
Of plump birds. clean them; cut on the legs and
remove the heads without breaking or tearing
the neck skin. With the foreHnger separate
the skin over the breast from the flesh. Fill
this with a nicely seasoned bread stuflnR and
fasten the neck to the back OF the bird. Tooth
pick a thin slice OF bacon over the breast. put
the birds in a pan. dr"dge with -four and bake
10 a crisp delicate brown. Serve with water
crosses and jelly.
Cold roast SQUAD, mixed with celery and
served with mayonnaise. makes a delicate salad
and the birds are at their very best as a cold
dish when boned and stuffed. The SQUAD must
be plucked and the head, wings and legs cut on
near the body. Cut through the skin down the
middle. OF the back and, keeping. the knife
pressed fat against the carcass, OF the bird, cut
legs and wings are reached' t%fnJcfnt these and
continue cutting until the ridge Of the breast.
point. When the entire bird has been freed
fTNm tn. bone 'Ss Law at. It; SKIN Kin down. down. On 10th the ,b ts1 ;D:
side and replace the carcass, with any good
force meat or %stuflng. Fold the skin over the
and round the bird into shape. Roast or bake
the boned squads and serve them with an aspio
conhns the foroe meat Water dresses and orange
salad are also an excellent accompaniment
IA seuab pie Is another dsin,y that requires
dish with paste and place a layer OF roast boned
veal about the sides and bottom. Pluck si3
draw them, wiping them with a wet towel. Cut
the giblets hne. together with an equal GUAM
tity q fat salt p9rs or bacon; add to them an
and a seasoning OF salt and pepper and use thist
stun the squads with. Lay them In the deep dish
o. veal Put over the fire IN a frying pan one
dessert spoonful each OF butter and hour.
s,,T u St.. tIs.n c snS ! 5HsD 81 Ti Soi IL 9G Sss snd ana 99s,
seasoning Of salt and pepper, When this sauce
boils. pour Il Into the pie and cover with an
e9S% % and SPR brush SU over With beaten egg. BAKE BAKE
Inc care that II does not burn II the crust
browns toe, quickly, cover IL with a buttered
paper, and lessen the heat OF the oven. This
the oomposiion Of Oscar Tsohirk. the .naitre
f. made with, three oranges taken from the ice.
peeled and sliced; Remove the seeds. arrange
and T add tS Sn ta f,s@1 CONT Zach of %afssesino.
curacao and brandy. Let It stand an bour in
the ice boz before serving.
divided into their natural sections and placed
sprinkIed over all and the dish is put on the
ice. just before serving pour over Il two wine
An orange sauce which Is good with squads
or with wild ducks. which are also IN season
now. is made from the rind Of 9 Seville or
the Juice Of the orange and mix with the rind.
Put In. a saucepan with aEtl OF broth, and a
glass OF madeira. Season the sauce galatably
utes and serve with the birds.
Orange essence sauce ia an admirable accom-
s sRs ss% Or o Sisu onion n"O Crate sSs{ the e" Yellow r RiHedIe %
b 6 is6se v Sr1n sse. aH Put fR 3Sss one ins 9%9ie 81 h in1o or a
small stew pan; add TO them a slight dust OF
cayenne pepper. ha a pint OF the gravy from
spoonful Of salt. and gently SHINE the sauce
for ten minutes. Meantime squeeze the Juice
saucs boa. at the end OF the ten minutes strain
the sauce into the orange and lemon juice and
The broiled or roasted wild duck lie generally
satisfying % most American palates. Yet there
are always those who would paint culinary
ruddy duck. Besides there are the epiourean
Shylocks who say that the real essence OF the
duck . mot, not brought Gf nTsI Sd, BY ~ the h EiggHerflFs a1 SnS
III W. rs ~ hh' $50 ~
the hideous duck press was constructed. that
awful silver instrument which brings I'M
pleasant thoughts OF the inquisition 10 the
sensitive diner when II Is seen IN operation.
For those who prefer the more elaborate and
spicy fashions Of cooking these birds there are
various recipes
Duck was cooked In a chatting dish by the late
Dion Boucicault after this excellent recipe:
Cut the ducks into six pieces each, wash each
piece and roll In -four, sprinkle with pepper. salt
and dry mustard. Dip each piece in beaten
egg and bread crumbs and fry In butter TO a
crisp brown. Slice some tomatoes and fry in
the same dish with the ducks, Put the. pieces
OF duck In the centre Of a hot dish and place
the tomatoes around them. Cook some French
peas and place them around the tomatoes.
Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve.
Devilled duck IL made IN this way. Remove
the skin and bones OF GOLD roast ducks and out
the meat into moder ate s'zed pieces. Bon
the livers and mash to a paste and put In q
saucepan with one. Tablespoonful Of dry mustard,
one teaspoonful Of salt, a dash Of CAYENNE, and
two tablespoontuls Of lemon Juice. Mix thor
oughly. Add two tablespoonfuls OF melted
butter and the same amount Of water. In this
put one and one-half uints Of cold duck and one
gill Of madeira, Place the saucepan over a fire
and stir until smoking hot. Then serve on .
hot dish.
A ragout Of duck. pronounced excellent. 10
prepared by cutting the duck into pieces large
enough 10 serve and place In a salcepan with n