The age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1897-1902, 1900-02-04

all winter Many very fashionable matrons
of the so-caIled 900 have revelled in the
luxury of the wash waist IN January For
these women there are now being made
whole trunks of the shirt waists THAT are
not thin waists, but are for wear during
the painfully long months of spring when
Writer clothing drags upon the shoulders
and CRATES upon 1.-THE nerves, and when
lawns and GbatiStes are too thin.
The wool ohalMe is more than holding
its own. 1t comes i'm MANY colors and pat
terms each having "a virtue of its own.
The cream challie has it's place in evening
wear the very pale colors come In for
morning use; while for afternoons, when
there are callers, or when there as calls
to he made, there are new green's browns,
blues and grays, all suited to these pur-
poses
II you doubt that a wool challie could
be woiE urea a receution day, please take
note of one worn at "a Washington tunch-
con by young lay who entertain5 exclu-
sve!y and Wirose guests that day includ II
Miss Grace Mckinley and Miss Hay
The waist, of eeru chalfie was of the
tucked variety, the tucks no larger than
a cording. Squares of cream Russian lace
were appliqued upon the waist, outlining
a yoke and indicating the middle OF. the
front Lace also trimmed the sleeves. The
neck was finished with a velvet stock of
butter-colored velvet ribbon. brought
around the neck and fastened in an Edna
May knot, which has no loops-only two
erpfs-iand is drawn through a buckle just
under the chin. The belt was finished in
the same way, and the waist was worn
wiJh a skirt of cream groundwork, striped
and figured with brown.
Old rose will be the popular color in
Madras. 1t lis almost too early to predict
the popular summer color but old rose
will certainly hold its own, and may enjoy
the popularity of crushed strawberry sew
IL ~
Ut is heMotrope and violet; but these color5
are worn more in the spring than in the
summer.
Several features are noticeable about the
new shirt waists. They are made, for the
most part, without the yoke. The waist
is given an added length by the long,
straight lines that extend from the chin to
the belt. These lines are accomplished by
trimmings, by folds, by tucking and by
stripes. But the fancy for making all
waists with Jokes is dying out.
The sleeve is much snugger and sets else
to the shoulder. 1t is trimmed. and the
plain sleeve is hard to find Cuffs are
larger and sitter and more pronounced.
Instead of being mere wristbands, they are
made very prominent. Cuffs of this de-
scription have a tendency to make the
hands look smaller and are more becoming
shan wristbands.
Fronts are full without being blouse. The
fullness is broad, but by no means baggy.
The waist is cut so that it extends in one
unbroken line from bust to belt, not tight
ly drawn nor too full. This long straight
line from bust to abdomen is called the
Dusk (not bust) line, and must never be
confused with the bust line. The ''busk'
line is well preserved by the new French
corsets. which Show one long, straight line
from bust ITO abdomen.
The most Fashionable collar of the sum-
mer will be the clergyman's collar 1t
opens in the back and is uubroken in front
| This admits of any necktie, but is prettiest
with THE narrow satin string tie.
The new stocks are made of velvet; they
are very tall and are finished in front with
a buckle. A linen collar is ordinarily worn
under such stock to keep 1T in place, I'M
less the stock be a made one, all Stiffened
and crlnolined. For ordinary purposes a
stock can easily be manufactured by wind
ing a velvet ribbon around the collar, so
as to hide the collar.
very pretty fad lis the making of collar
and stock and belt ITO matcn. These come
in SETS which cam be easily duplicated ait
home A strip of mauve Liberty silk, with
bit of lace upon the ends, makes a tie
which can be repeated in belt. Both can
be fastened directly in THE middle of lhe
front; the neckties is knotted around the
collar under the chin, and the belt is
drawn through Its fastening or is knotted
in a snug .our-in-hand right in front
BEATRICE.