The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1900-03-29
PARTISAN LENIEN GOWNS
VISITING COSTUMES OF MANY
COLORS BLENDED INTO
ONE EFFECT
GARNITUREs FOR THE HAIR
The POmDadOur Fast Losing Ground
-SemBIance of a "Bang" He
gins to Make Its Appear
Ance Again.

1t is admitted that the season along the
Riviera, from the point of view of the
shopkeepers and hotel proprietors, has
been a dull one, and Is accounted for by
the war in the Transyaal. The Midi has
lost, in consequence, a large number OF
its most profitable patrons, the idle,
smart London set that finds its sunny
shores, the best place in which to pass
Lent and the best preparation for the
London season. The Paris shopkeepers,
too complain Of the scarcity of English
sovereigns and bewail the loss of the
money that English people are accus-
toned to drop in Paris on their way from
London to Nice But notwithstanding
the absence of the English che Riviera
season has never been more brilliant. To
take the place of the usual English crowd
is an extra number of Parisians. Paris,
with it's main thoroughfares torn up by
tramway companies, and with the dust.
noise and confusion of the little city Of
the exposition that Is going up in its
midst the New York Tribune says is not
pleasant at the moment and many peo-
pie who generally spend the winter here
are only too anxious to get away. The
great majority of them go south.
There are those who say that the alb
sence Of English women at these resorts
has vastly raised the standard of dress
ing and gooe. looks. AS to the looks
there may be two opinions, but it is true
that English women, even those Of the
ultra smart set, always seem badly
dressed While on the continent. Neither
does the Midi seem a fit setting for the
so-called English freshness, for both it's
beauty and it's natural charms seem Of
the artificial order, and while the French
woman or the Russian Is at her best
there, the English woman is always a
foreign growth. AS the atmosphere at
Nice this year seems to be entirely
French, the dressing may be considered
as entirely Of the same genre, and the
toilets seen there, 1t is generally admit
ted. are noticeably elaborate and bril-
liant.
One Of the most noticeable things to be
remarked at Nice is the absence OF the
toque, or toquet, which has been SO uni
Versally worn all winter IN Paris. This
Is replaced by hats, some large, some
small; some with fiaring brim and some
tilted over the face, but always q hat.
These are for the most part laden with
flowers. If they turn up in front or on
the side there are flowers against the
hair, and If the hat IS pushed forward
there is a mass Of flowers forming a
cache peigne. A novel hat is of black
erin, embroidered with red straw. 1t Is
trimmed with an odd bow of black tulle,
dotted with gold, and has a mass of
small peoples in the back. Straws come
in all the soft new shades, such as coral
and the pastel colors A large hat of
pastel blue straw is turned up in front,
with strass buckle, and on the side I'M
der the brim IS a bunch of pale pink
roses. A frill Of black Chantilly trims the
hat. A yellow straw, with one large
black plume and a scarf of black tulle,
is effective. With cOlOred and embroid-
cred straws so fashionable, great va
riety Of effects Is possible. 1t is first Of
all to be noted that 1t is the hat itself
that is of first Importance, and not the
trimming. Indeed, so little Of the latter
is used that it IS necessary that these odd
bows, punches Of flowers and occa sonal
feathers should be arranged with skill
and care But this, after all. presents a
great opportunity to the milliner of taste.
Flowers are worn,+n the hair to an ex-
tent that has not been thought of
for some years, Nothing that is effective
is considered too bizarre to wear For
instance, blonde actresses her hair with
two large peoples, one placed in the knot
on the top OF the head and the other
just In front Of the ear. Another pretty
Coiffuro for blonde is a wreath of green
leaves inclosing a broad knot of hair A
fashion commonly seen is a knot oil
ribbon encircling the hair with two large
flowers or punches of flowers, placed one
on each side, to give broad, rather than
a high effect. The regular pompadour al
about the head Is rarely seen now. The
hair is, as rule, very much puffed out or
the sides, with a few short, irregular
locks on the forehead. Some French
women are wearing a bunch of irregular
curls coming from big puff that Is plac-
ed above the forehead. 1t is a pretty
fashion If the bunch is kept light and
not too regular.
The gowns that seem to be the sue.
cess at Nice show a deal of shirring, mo-
only Ola the bodice, but on the skirt. FOL
thin materials a shirred yoke on the
skirt is pretty, and many gowns worn or
the Riviera now are of thin stuffs. The
following gown attracted a deal Of at
tention at the Casino one evening. The
material was thin blue WOOL with q blue
silk figure in 1t. The skirt, with the ex.
ception of the front breadth, was shirred
for about six inches about the hips and
fell In a half trains,f The front breadth re.
manned as sort sDf panel and was EN-.
broidered at the bottom knee high by mar
row black velvet rfbbQh and silver thread
in conyentionalizeda leaf pattern. TIL,
bodice was draped cYfthra pouch front that
crossed and fastened3 under the arm.
There was a half, decoIletage made with
muslin kerchief ydhat was knotted or
the bust. This had FiffHed ends that made
a little jahot down the side covering the
closing Of the bodice. The kerchief rest
ed on double collars Of blue panne, edged
with blue fringe and embroidered as was