Evening journal., 1900-06-07
Are of MePcerized Coottn
and Woolen VoileS
Feminine and Fixy Hats Are Of
Becoming Shapes and Have
Strings

per who is doing her utmost to inn
prove the opportunity that Summer
brings to look deliciously dainty and
sweet; retaining at the same time the
charm of her trig Winter style.
The array OF thin gowns varies from
the gOssamer mOusselines over thinnestl
silk, to the taffeta costumes with eton
jackets and skirts to match, which are
to be worn in the place of cloth dresses
Of similar mode. The cotton and lin
en- dresses. however, occupy the first
place in interest and investment. Here
again there is n wide range of weight
from the iilmiest Organdies, mules and
new mercerized linens, grass linens
and piques. The range of fabrics is
broad, but the range of colors is some
what limited. In the latter there are
pastel tints, but for the most part
wash dresses and cotton garments in
cline to white grounds with cOlored
! figures and in the main, pure white.
The costumes of plain linens, mer-
cerized linens, grass linens, khakis and
piques, are made severely, and near in
construction, TO the tailor idea. For the
thinner materials there are many new
schemes for trimming, but the main
effect is the use of great quantities OF
]
with the heavier materials, and lace
insertions with the lighter materials.
TAILOR-MADE WASH GOWNS.
Tailor-made linen and cotton gowns
are among the unique features of the
Summer styles, and are considered very
smart. They are substantial and com
! pact, being heavily stitched, but not
stiifened by any whale boning or mo-
hair. They occupy a particular place
in the Summer wardrobe and are in
pleasing contrast with the more flxy
and decorated costumes everywhere in
4 evidence. The wash goods tailor gown,
by comparison with other reigning
styles, is very severe as to outline and
cut. The gowns consist almost entire
ly OF skirt and jacket both of which
are firmly and heavily stitched. The
skirts Of these suits return somewhat
to the close styles OF last Fall, though
different in cut The seven gored bell
skirt composed of narrow cores, fits
smoothly to the figure, having many
vertical lines Of heavy stitchinga The
eton and bolero jacket covered with
stitched lines is the correct jacket for
these skirts. One Of our most reliable
and exclusive houses has displayed
white pique skirts with a deep circular
fiounce at the bottom Of a tucked
skirt The jacket accompanying this
skirt was an eton with a circular
stitched collar.
POPULAR LIGHT WOOLENS.
Although this is a great year for wash
fabrics OF every sort, with the insatia-
BILE craze for elaboration which still
r possesses us and urges us to the use oil
: labyrinthine tucks, smockngs, inser.
! tions appliques and pleatings, the
5 claim of light wOolen goods on the
fashionable world Is not to be disputed
These voiles and their kindred can
vases, as we'll as the old fashioned
nuns veilings, have a we'll merites
] popularity. There is no material SC
Z piiable and we'll suited to clever ma,
e nipulation and rich effects in needl,
] work, nor so graceful and obedient in
its folds and Pleats.
a In black and cOlors worn over con,
] trasting or blending silk interlinings
there is a great vogue OF these most ex
cellent goods. The shops are busy sell
, ing them and supplying an ever in
creasing demand for grenadine wool
ems. No better Summer dress was vel
made, no stronger wooden fabric evei
proof made Of the finest possible wool
I these cloths have deservedly won thei
8 high place and will keep it through
], out the season.
e Another popular material Is th
S Scotch homespun, a mixture of mohai
and wool. These are an English fancy
s and are decidedly conspicuous amonl
b our smartly gowned cousins They an
:, made mp in suits Of jackets and skirts
y and are mostly Of very vivid colorinz
which, by the bye, are making a fin
( fight to assert themselves i'm the YER
l. face of the enthusiasm for delicate pas
tel tones. The rather trying effect O
the homespuns. with their turquois
# blues and middle shades Of light rec
n is smartly relieved by coat facings O
(. black and white fOulard The effect G
e this decided contrast Of black an
n white near the face has some mystel
D, ious influence on the becOmingness {
the homespuns, and adds an incalcula
Bile amount Of style to the costume
The whim Of fancy coat facings ha
taken a firm hold. and they may b
!, made to add a great deal TO the cos
tune. The latest scheme is to have a
assortment of adjustable large collar
n, which fold back over the n
4, veres of the coat, either hai
= monizing or contrasting i'm colo
, as taste dictates. A little clever jus
~ Cling with these collars gives an in
IA mense variety to one suit
a. ADJUSTABLE COAT COLLARS.
The embroidered, or batiste collar.
r. the most popular. or one Of the mos
ca popular, coat adornments, howeve
and a very dainty and fresh notiol
Many people are making these collar
for themselves. They are quite pretl
little trifes to work upon. and
a change from other sorts OF deccrati,
p handiwork. One must first have a co
lg lar cut out in French linen batiste ,
On lawn OF which it is to be made. an
ng then placed around its edge in appliat
in fashion. an embroidered lawn or b.
&c tiste edging Of. say some two or thr,
inches. more or less. The effect Is II
most delightful fraud. for If the decor
tive edge of the embroidery be nice
applied. and all the material under
N, be carefully cut away, the effect Is tn
IL of a delicately and elaborately en-
n brOidered collar. Embroidered law