The Topeka state journal., 1900-03-10

as gloves long enough to completely
cover the bare arm.
In 1905 the waist was lergthened and
tight lacing came into vogue again.
That it had ever gone out of fashion
for a day is remarkable, for there was
nothing that troubled our great grand
mothers less than the laws of health.
FlannelS were never worn, thin Slip
pers and thinner hose We're regarded as
the only proper attire for the feet, and
the fact that they lived in draughty
and il-ventilated houses made no diff
ference in their mode of dress. In fact,
as one examines the fashion plates of
that period he is struck with amaze
ment that any of the followers of fem
mime fashions should have outlived
their experiences. That they did live
speaks well for the hardness of the
race.
Since the beginning of the present
century almost every six months has
seen a change in the fashions for wo-
men, but it will be impossible, in a sin
gle article, to refer to more than few
of the most striking changes.
IN JOSEPHINE S DAY.
Up to 1906 the mode of dress remained
materially the same, and then the skirt
was shortened and the waist length
ened. In 1872 the narrow skirts were
richly embroidered around the hem and
a turban-like headdress accompanied
the low bodice. This mode of dress
continued with slight notifications. up
to 1922, when the fashions underwent q
very marked CnanSG- 6OQlCGS were
more shapely, more pointed, and laced
at the back, and we take our cross
ing draperies from that period. The
skirts widened and just touched the
ground.
In 1928 the low bodices were rendered
high by the use of lace pelerines and
high ruffieS and the hats, broad-brim-
med and bedizened with flowers made
a very picturesque effect. In 1880 the
side curls began to appear, and, at
about the same time, the white muslin
bodices then called CanezOus that may
be regarded as the forerunner of our
modern blouse.
In 1897 the accession of the Queen OF
England brought about another change
and youthful faces looked out charm
ingly from beneath the haling brims
of coal-Scuttle bOnnets, which were
worn with long narrow wells. The
method of dressing the head had also
changed, now being worn in smooth
bands parted down the center, some
round the ears. COrOnetS of hair were
also worn, and elaborate plaitS toward
the crown of the head.
The next important change was about
1858, when crinolines once more ap-
peared. This fashion was due 20 the
Empress Eugene, who sought to emu
late the hoops of Queen Elizabeth and
the royal ladies who succeeded her. In
this more modern effort, however, the
dignity and quietude of movement that
characterized the earlier days was al
most Wno1ly lacking, ana history VIII
always be compelled to regard this as
the ugliest period of this century 8
dress.
1t was in 1860 that petticoats began
to assume an unwonted Importance and
the much trimmed skirts of the period
were looped over brilliant Woollen ones
1t was not until the seventies that
basqued bodices appeared, and with
them came a variety of tunics, for the
reign of the hustle was upon US. At
this period bOnnetS were fiat and Ioz-
enge-shaped and it was at the close Of
this decade that we began hair fringes.
Now that the nineteenth century is
drawing to a close it is interesting to
see what we have accomplished in the
way of feminine attire. Tt must be ad-
mitted, in this connection, that the CEN
tury can boast of having originated few
/ useful ideas.
Outside of this the nineteenth CEN
| tury has accomplished little of moment
in the matter of the reformation of
dress, and the century closes in the
midst of magnificence Of Ornamental
tions and richness of materials prac-
tically undreamed of in any other age
of the world.