Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-12-12
STYLES IN MEMS CLOTHES
THE MAN OF THE PERIOD IS LOOK
ING FOR COMFORT.
Radicalisms Are Eschewed and All
Oddities Are In Bad Form
Fashions In Accessories.
From the Haberdasher.

| From the Haberdasher.
Winter fashions are now we'll formed. and
we have little reason to look for anything
either in outer raiment or in haberdashery
| that will be noticeably different from pre-
| vailing standards. The gentleman of the
| period is most decidedly adverse to taking
up anything in dress that smacks too
| strongly Of individuality. The forms are
well established and such changes as may
be accepted are certain to be Of very con-
sentative and very unnoticeable quality.
In our suits, top coats, overcoats outing
and evening clothes. good taste has kept
| color down and forms away from radical
isms. The present standards are the result
of very slow course of evolution. Full
| ness has come in, and tightness has gone
out. Comfort has driven from the field all
the tight-binding garments that put one in
such military dress parade sort Of feel
Ing. 1t may be said with truth that there
is not a suit Of fashionable form that Is
not extremely well suited to the purposes
for which it was created. The business
jackets short and full, the trousers are
ample in size. Evening dress is as COM
Portable day dress, and the most for
NAL attire for afternoon or morning wear
does not compel man to don anything that
will make him uncomfortable.
Striking Innovations.
There are some striking innovations in
what one might well term a season of stripes
| and mixtures. Checks and plaids will be
| popular but the new feature Of the season
will undoubtedly be the soft and almost
invisible striped cloths. The coors are very
quiet. almost Quakerish. Natural tone
grays. fnofensive greens. dark deep blues
and brownish heather tones will all be
popular The stripes are not at all promi-
nent. They are of the hard-to-see herring
bone style. In cheviots and in wors: eds
these are very neat. The black cheviots,
homeSpuns and vicunas will be used princi-
pally in frocks and getaways The evening
coats will be made of fine weave Sedans
and worsted broadcloths. Venetian twills
and Clay worsteds. as well as broadcloth
vii! be used, but the prevailing favorites.
think, will be the delightfully."- soft worsted
weaves. One can secure much better At
ting and a much more perfectly fitting suit
in these worsteds than he secure in
any Of the firmer weaves Dinner jackets
will be made of unfinished worsteds Of
| black. with very close cut nap. I do not
think any of the invisible herringbone
Weaves mixtures will be in as good form
as the plain dull black for this garment.
For Formal Wear.
For formal day wear. and for wear with
black dark blue jackets. the worsted
trousers in striped patterns will continue in
favor. These will be In bright, clear COM
binations in which gray, silver blue. and
the darker tones of gray will be the pre-
dominating colors. Fancy waistcoats do
not seem to be in very good favor. I think
they are little out of the line of dress
this season. They are altogether too chro-
matte for the schenes of color which the
mode sanctions. In overcoatings the famil-
lar cheviots. worsteds. Venetians and COW
erts, as we'll as the meltons and lambs
woods. will be popular. For Raglans ard
Chesterfelds the dark gray and light gray
mixtures Will be in good form. The even
ing coat of the Inverness" model will be
40 Il o11rI 49,
"Chesterfied' for afternoon wear The
box coats will be made in metons, kerseys.
chevfots and Venetians. All overcoats will
be of one tone. or of a very dark mixture.
The prominent herringbone and striped
coats are no longer considered au fait
All coats will have wellsquared Shout
ders. The single-hreasted jackets will have
short roll lapeis with small no.ches. The
waists will be cut rather snug, giving to
the Jacket military air. The fronts will
be sloped away on rather sharp angle be-
low the last buttcnhole of the opening
F1ocks will have tight, smooth-ftting
waists and well "belled" skirts. The coll
lars will be narrower than usual and tho
lapels will not be quite as large they
Chesterfield, oversack and covert types the
shoulders will be wide and square. The
notch widths will be diminished. the roll
shorter and the length longer than usual
last seasons. This will also call for waist
coats slightly longer than the old type In
stngle-breasted waistcoats the fronts should
be sloped away considerably below the last
buttonhole
Evening Dress.
Evening coats will have peaked lapels
The shoulders will be of medium Square
ness" The roll will extend to point Just
below the opening of the waistcoat or quite
near to the waist line. The skirts will fall
just to the back Of the knees and will be
square. with slightly rounded points, and
will Avya
edges will be blind-stitched, and the cuff
will be closed with three buttons. The COL
lar Will be narrow. and the lapels will be
silk-faced to the buttonholes
The waistcoat will have low long "JJ''
form opening, and very narrow collar
There should be three buttons in each row
II 1t is double-breasted waistcoat. The
single-breasted waistcoats will have the
same form Of opening as the double-breast-
ed waistcoats and will close with four but
tons. Trousers Will be eighteen inches at
the knee and fifteen inches at the bottom.
The side seams may be finished with a
small. fancy braid. but the plain welt finish,
l think, Is best.
AS gentleman in evening dress should
never put his hands in his trousers pockets
would suggest the abandonment of side
pockets.
Dinner jackets will be made with shawl
collars or peaked lapels. They will have
neither buttons nor buttonholes. The new
model shows hip pockets, and the shawl
collar style Is by all odds the best.
Cravats.
The cravats of the seasons are practf-
cally limited to the tied variety The ties
of the butterfly and batswing models are
best with pointed ends. These are in solid
tones. and in very neat patterns One Of
the leading haberdashers recently showed
these cravats with one medium-sized vari-
colored unit each end. They were in
both light and dark grounds. The best
derbies are folded in and are about two
inches wide. The broad end folded i'm
perial and the broad end Cuiross are very
popular and will certainly grow in favor as
soon as cold weather becomes assured.
The broad end large cravats should be
worn with standing collars. If one prefers
a fold collar, then form with cutaway
points must be selected. The narrow spaced
square point collars should only be rec
commended for wear with small cravats
For morning wear the brilliant tones
with small closely grouped units are best.
For formal day wear the light gray, pearl
white, pure white and the dull black are
best. cravatting for formal wear should
always have self figure, or be of a plain
| weave. For evening wear the ties are of
the batswing and butterfly forms and are