Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-06-09

Special Correspondence ..,
Toledo. Spain. April %, ls0O-Casu''
San hotels from the showiest Of the 'D'.
nerlal capital to the shabbiest Of border
vulaqes are celebrated throughout
cbrlstendom for extraordinary dlseoIn'
,orts This Metropolis Of three END,
nires' possesses the poorest Of them a"
so poor that una noche Toledana, "a
night IN Toledo) has passed into
pr3yerb. Indicating unmltIgated wretch
edness. The most expensive Of Toleios
bostelrles--one cannot truthfully say
"best" where are no degrees Of good
pess-ls the Fonda Imperial, fronting
hte one fashionable ZocOdover or Moor
AN plaza In the heart OF the city. It's
rather imposing exterior gives promises
which are unfulhlled within. and the
eophistlcated visitor bases wcll-founl-
ed apprehensiUns Of evils 10 come on
the drst Whit Of vile od0rs encountered
IN the long dark entrance hall. The
railway omnibus, which DE- about me
only wheeled vehicle In Toledo. clatters
etralght through this front hail from
the street 20 the interior pati0i and OF
course pedestrians follow suit what
a contrast 10 the cool delightful court
Yards of Andalusla, with their spark-
ling fountains. fragrant flower beds ana
orange treesi This wide and barren
court-open overhead to sun and show
or. roughly paved. Ike the public street
and Infinitely dirtler-is surrounded by
RIcKETY GALLERY,
into which an the chambers open. Three
sides OF the ground floor are utilized as
a stable. where mules MUNICH their BAR
ley and murder sleep" for tired travel
ers In the rooms above by stamping the
stones the long night through. the rest
OF the space being occupied by gossip
ing servants and muleteers, bags OF
grain and charcoal. saddles, kitchen
paraphernalis. and all the odds ana
ends OF the household. The landlady-
her bare feet thrust into heelless slip
pers and figure presenting a ludicrous
resemblance 10 one OF her own grain
baes. indliferently tied IN the middle
meets you IN this characteristic re-
ceptlon room and with voluble SPAN
ish welcome, places the casa and all u
contains "a su disposition de " ana
then, by clapping her pudgy hands
summons the mozO 90 conduct you to
an apartment The mozo, by the way,
deserves a special paragraph. lie is the
steward Of every Spanish house, the
major domo and m-in-generaL
without whom the machinery would
soon stop. like a run-down-clock. lie
buys the food. and often cooks II; Is
chambermaid. table walter porter err
rand boy and neutrality-suspicious.
these manifold services for the average
salary Of two or three dollars month
aud hls keel" catching his meals on
the run, 80 20 say. and sleeping When-
eyer and wherever he Can-generally on
the stones Of the patio While guarding
the front door He never dreams OF
betterIng his condition, but is honest
faithful. even proud OF HE position,
which he rlghtfuIly considers the most
important IN the household. Having so
little leisure. his toilette is not elabOr-
ate-consisting Of
CALICO SHIRT.
seldom washed. a pair OF his master'e
cast-of trousers, coW-hlde sahoais
without hose and a sort Of shawl wound
around his waist In bulky folds the
sIack OF II In front making a convenient
for carrying things from the
marketing 10 the morning mail and the
coppers that are beloved upon MN IN |
ne way OF tips. Such useless articles as
collars ana dies never girdled |
his neck, che soap OF Ola
CASTLE and his skin are manifestly |
strangers. and he considers his duty |
done I'm the line Of personal adornment |
Il he combs his hair on fiesta days ana |
gets himself shaved two OF three times |
4 year.
The bed rooms OF the Fonda Imperial
IRE a fair sample of the best TO pe
'ound IN Spanish hotels, and a descrip-
ion OF one hts most OF them TO per-
lection The flooring Is Of square rrd
bricks. called by courtesy tiles, damp in
cold as the charity OF the
world IN winter The ceiling Is formed |
BIZ unplaned jolsts that support the
roof. walls white washed. and usually
hung with "A few French woodCuts In |
gaudy colors. portraylng scenes not |
on exhibition where the pro- |
prleties OF life are considered. The bed |
stead Is Of iron. curtalnod with lace |
and canopled with satin. but with re- |
markable paucity OF covering sheets |
that YOU hesitate TO put yourself be-
tween.
BULLET PROOF PILLOWS.
and flock mattress. hard enough TO sat |
isfy an anchorite. The whole business |
Is painfully suggestive OF objects Of en- |
tomOlogical reseatch--and Indeed you |
need not search Tor them. IKE sins. they |
Will speedily find you OUT The peculiar |
wit Of the Spaniard. as well as his in |
dolence, Is shown in the military names |
he has bestowed upon his Astounding |
Vermin while taking no pains to eradl- |
cate them. Those belonging TO the |
genus Pediculus he calls infantry: |
neas, cavalry. and the humble but in |
dustrious laborer IN the human vine
yard, known In the far west as "B |
Flat Is classed as artillery. Mosquitoes /
are appropriately STYLED trumpeters. /
reaches, drummer-bovs; and so on 10 |
the end OF the chapter.
l am told. by Americans who have /
made the Spanish tour. that IN every /
city where considerable time is 20 be /
spent Il Is far better 10 eschew hotels
ana seek some casa De huespedss-a /
sort Of boarding house. equivalent 10 /
the French pension. There are several