New-York tribune., 1900-10-01
THE ENGADINE.
A SHORT AND A LONG WAY OF REACH
ING A CENTRE OF FASHION AND
MOUNTAINEERING
Maloja, September 2.

rious according to European standards, 10 either
Coire or Davos whence there is a carriage drive
TO ST. Moritz or Maloja- The road through the
Tulier pass leads to the centre of this highly
favored region. halfway between Samaden and
Maioja: but the finer scenic approach is by the
Schyn road through the Albula pass This is
the Upper Engadne. valley hardly more than
& mile broad hanked on each side by noun
tains capped and streaked with glaciers and
wstered at the bottom by chain OF beautiful
lakes. So completely is it sheltered that the
winds never blow. and the air is sweetened and
perfumed with the breath Of the Swiss stone
pines on the lower slopes Of the mountains
II Is one Of the loveliest and most restful noun
tain valleys in Europe. and not only does the
world of wealth and fashion disport itself during
the summer on the borders OF the lakes. but
invalids take refuge there during the winter
Samaden guards the lower approach, where the
Bernina joins the Inn. and higher up are Pom
tresina. St Moritz, CAMPER, Silvaplana. Sis
and finally Maloja. at the crest Of the precipi-
tous but beautiful pass leading 10 Chiavenna
and Lake Como
There are more Engadines than one, and
while il is a long drive all may be seen II the
Inn be followed against the current from the
Tyrol Ny holiday wanderings have led me
from Munich through Innsbruck and the entire
Engadine 70 the gateways Of Lake Como; and
more glorious mountain drive have never had,
Andes from Mendoza TO Santiago by the Uspal-
Iata. II I have any hesitation in recommending
this itinerary TO American tourists it is because
the Tyrol is so beautiful and fascinating re
gion that IL viii be difficult for them TO break
away from il and 10 continue the journey from
Landeck up the Inn. Innsbruck itself, with the
monuments TO Macmillan and Hofer in the
Franciscan church. the golden roof, and the
picturesque Maria Theresienstrasse, can be seen
in single day: but what traveller Of any de-
gree OF sensibty 10 the beauties Of mountain
scenery and 10 the primitive simplicity Of vii
lage life can ever tire Of walking and driving
in the Tyrol? There are castles and mediaval
churches high above the mountain town; there
are magnificent prospects at every turn; there
are beautiful lakes. like the Achensee, close at
hand and the Brenner pass can be reached in
short railway drive: but the chief charm of the
TyroI IS the quaintness and seclusion Of the
villages which seem 10 lie outside the range Of
the modern world.
There has been unceasfng swarming Of
tourists and s!ghtseers this season across the
mountains from Munich Innsbruck 70 Ober-
ammergau Probably I have the unique dis
tinction Of being the only American who visited
both cities without seeing the Passion Play; but
have stayed away not from any desire to be
eccentric but from unwillingness a first
Dighter in the London theatres to bring my
critical faculties TO bear upon the enactment Of
sacred parts even by pious peasants. A glance
at the scores Of photographs and post cards in
the shop windows Of Munich illustrating the
sacred story sufTiced to convince me that I
would not derive pleasure from Oberammergau.
and 7 was well content to study RaphaeI's Ma
donnas and Durer's apostles IN the old Pima
kothek and to reserve time for stroIling among
the villages Of the Tyrol, where the unaffected
piety and simple faith Of the mountain peasants
were revealed without scenic display or theatri-
cal staging.
When ! once began TO walk among these Old
World villages I rejoiced that was out Of the
nadding crowd at Oberammergau; for while
had the invigorating tonic of the mountain air
and the enhancing beauty Of the Eastern Alps
had rapid succession Of pictures Illustrating
the religious life which inspired the Passion
Play. It was here waysde crucifx, and there
q herunits cell; II was a Calvary at Arzl with
scenes OF the Passion in wax wood, and 1t
the white chapel OF st. Romedius at Thaur,
with every house front the road bearing wit
70 his adventures with the bear; it was
shrine al Absam for pilgrimages from every
quarter Of the Tyrol and II was a niche over the
door Of the humblest cottage for an image of a
saint a broader space for mural painting
OF the Madonna; and everywhere these evidences
OF medieval piety and faith were passing with
out observation and not paraded for the capri
cious entertainment Of a host Of foreign tourists.
These Tyrolese scenes were witnessed anew
when began my drive along the Inn from Ian
deck to the Engadine for the first days staging
the road 70 Meran as far as Nauders.
The waygide shrines, the sacred pictures in col
ors on the cottage fronts the isolated chapels
precipitous rocks and the church spires in
the hanlets high above the post road offered
fresh glinpses Of the simplicity of the religious
life Of the hardy mountaineers. These were
varied by distant views Of ruined castles and
fortress towers. and the glorious panorama of
the flashing river foaming in ceaseess rapids
and cascades. and OF the lofty mountains guard
ing the entrance to the Lower Engadine and the
fee fields Of the Ortler chain. Beyond Nauders,
when the Swiss frontier had been passed at a
bridge over the Inn, the Tyrolese coloring was
lost. but the scenery increased in grandeur with
the narrowing Of the valley and the ascent Of
the mountain gorge. This was the second stage
of the drive leading hour after hour through
deep ravines and along wide curves Of the road
way to the three clusters Of hotels and white
cottages known as SchuIs, Tarasp and Vulpera,
az the centre Of the Lower Engadine. third
days drive ended al St Moritz in the Upper
Engadtne after q dozen picturesque villages
and crum bling castles had been passed, and the
beautiful Roseg glacier. with its double cascade,
had flashed it's radiant splendors from the crest
Of the Bernina range.
A 3udicious traveller who drives day after day
from the Tyrol 10 Maloja, with halls and walks
here and there, is content with his pleasure hour
by hour. and not in critical mood for making
comparative estimates Of the various sections
OF his route. Whether one passage is less pict-
uresque than another. the Eastern Alps and the
whole Engadine region glorious in their soft
ness OF coloring and furrowed ranges.
g1,a opIxy