Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1900-10-18

smiles on her face, but sorrow in her
heart, and this necessity has given rise
to the styles Of what we might call or
namental mourning.
For all who can possibly afford it
and no one counts the cost when one is
endeayoring to honor the memory of
the one who is gone the eudora cloth
Is the one desirable thing, as while jet
black, and that color never changes
however long it may be worn. it has a
dull richness very suitable for the pur-
pose. And Grape shows up on it as it
does not on any other kind Of stuff
made This is for first mourning and
is nearly covered with Grape Later
this Grape is narrowed until it becomes
but a border. For first mourning the
dress is made rather long. and the
Grape is faced upon the skirt so that
little of tile eudora Is seen. In three
months this can be cut down. and so
on by degrees until the first year is
past. Many ladies wear mourning for
three and four years, but they are the
exception.
A cape of some kind is considered
best form for the first mourning. and
such capes are trimmed with heavy
Grape laid on fiat. Collars are made in
the same form as those which are not
for mourning and are covered with
Grape. Stylish they are and as hand
somely made as those for swell func-
tions, thou gh all black and Grape laden.
Speaking Of Grape reminds me to
speak of the different kinds and to de-
fine the uses of each. The italian
goods of this description are all called
Italian Grape and the French the same,
and the China Grape is another thing
entirely aud not at all transparent,
while the other two are quite So These
two are used only as trimming to the
other Grape. The English fabric is also
called "crape" and bears with that way
of spelling the knowledge that the ma
terial is of the wide vale and solid
erinkle which is the only kind possible
for the fat trimming and for the wells.
There are two or three different
weights of this English Grape which is
known by the name of courtauld. as it
has been from time unknown. All of
the English Grape is now made water
proof.
For home the handsomest way to
make a dress is to have a delnitrain
and ripple fiounce Of the material
deeply faced with Grape and the waist
laid in folds all converging to a point
from the shoulder to the bottom of the
front The collar and sleeves may be
covered with Grape. or If Tint proves
too expensive a binding will do and
more stress laid on the street attire
For mothers and widows the depth OF
the Grape is as. great as the purse win
allow, and the veil is long enough to go
over the head double and fall to the
hem of the dress in the back \ sman
mask veil is worn down oyer the face
for the purpose of helping e hold the
bonnet in place The capc and the
Marie Stuart shape win always bc the
best bonnets for heavy MORNINGS. as
they form the best hold fer the long
and dragging veil. For evening when
it is almost obligatory for 4 waaan to
be present at some semigreat function.
like wedding in her family & trained
dull silk with fine ruiiies and nlaitiaga
of crepe lisse or chiffon aud garAlShed
with dull jet beads and perhaps some
chenille embroidery is suitable This
7an be madc with Y shaped neck, or
IL can be close, but osnamented with
white crepe iisse wherever il is posst-
bic to put it. HeNIalgrr E:onasEAUss