The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1900-05-06

look on MS departing journey, ana. next
to the wonderful mosque. they linger long
est and most pleasantly in his memory
1t is said that all the palms in Spain are
descended from one which Prince Abd-ur-
Rahman 1 brought with him from the
banks of the Euphrates and planted in the
garden of his Cordovan palace. The gentle
Arabian composed a sadly sweet poem to
that palm-like himself an exile-which is
yet sung and recited in Spain, akin TO that
other homesick wall. La Golondrona,' of
Mexico.
Cordova is indebted TO the Arabs for the
fine aqueduct that brings pure, cold
mountain water across a deep valley TO a
hundred public fountains. These reser-
voirs are also excellent places for obsery-
ing peculiar phases of folk-life; and so are
the plazas, where the entire population
may be seen at least once every day-the
poorer classes lounging and sleeping
through the noontide heat, the aristocrats
in their rickety coaches and landaus at
the fashionable sunset hour. The "Paseo
del Gran Capita"-so named in honor of
Gonsalvo de Cordoba, >one of Ferdinand's
doughty knights in the siege of Grenada
is the principal promenade of the city.
During the day it is quite deserted. except
for sleeping beggars. its double rows of
orange trees and Japanese medlars turning
up their dry leaves white with dust. At
night the scene changes as completely as
on the Prado at Habana. Bands play, in
Vulnerable gas jets twinkle amid the
shrubbery, the air is delightfully."- cool, and
the blue dome of heaven hangs its lus-
trous star-lamps over all. The few noble
families, who keep up a ghostly show of
antiquated state, drive pompously to and
fro, while plebean jewellers swarm the
promenade, or seated at little tables, sip
horchates de chufa, or dulce de azahas-
s~weetmeats made of orange flowers and
water, essentially Cordovese in character.
Much more beautiful is the shady Ala
media, with gardens on either side, where
the cool plash of water from innumerable
fountains mingles with the music and the
air is heavy with the fragrance of orange
blossoms, %oleanders and roses. There is
also the tree-shaded Paseo de la Victoria,
extending to the distant railway station;
and the Ribera, along the river bank, COM
handing a fine view of the bridge, the
| gypsy suburb and the crumbling Alcazar.
SPANISH COURTSHIP.
BY the way, it was the aforementioned
Gran Captain" Gonsalvo, who originated
the saying so common in Spain that while
other cities may be better to live in, Cor
dova is eminently the place in which to
be born. It's narrow paths are so roughly
| paved that to walk in them is a penance,
and it's house walls, whitewashed at least
once a year, dazzle the suffering eyes. Car
riages are not allowed to enter any of the
| principal streets, and into most Of them
wheeled vehicles could not possibly force a
way. AS twilight approaches men are
seen clinging to the iron ratings of all the
lower balconies, holding whispered CONVEX
sations with their sweethearts inside the
bars. This is the only recognized method
of courtship approved of parents and guar
| dams since time out of mind, and for a
Spaniard to neglect his duty in this respect
would be to brand himself a laggard in
| love, unworthy the smiles of any senorita.
A century ago there were many rich and
| populous monasteries in Cordova, but near
ly all of them have been desecrated or
turned into schools and hospitals. Prom
inent among the few that remain are Santa
| Marta, of the Jeronymites; the monastery
of the Padres de Garcia, near the barracks
of Alfonso XII, and the Fuen Santa, just
| outside the city walls. The once wealthy
| convent of La Trinidad is now occupied by
a corps of Remonta de Cordoba, or gov
eminent horse trainers, whose business is
to break the wild horses Of the Sierra for
the Spanish cavalry. They wear short
| trousers, turned up, with red and brown
boots. laced and open at the sides.
The provincial museum would hardly be
worth a visit were it not for a few Moorish
relics. Among the latter is a fine collec-
ton of spears, the brim of an Arabian
well in green pottery inscribed with a text
from the Koran, and a bell of the ninth
| century with a Mozarabic legend, that hung
in the tower of San Sebastian, the Oldest
convent in Spain.
A number of delightful excursions may
be made in the neighborhood of Cordova,
on foot, in the saddle, or en- coche. Within
| easy walking distance is the section known
as Alcazar viejo y Nuevo-just beyond the
city gate which Philip IL caused to be
erected on the ruins of the Moorish Babu-
el-Kanterah, Gate of the Bridge" The AL
cazar Goyal palace) proper, was built on
the site of Roderic's castle, the last of the
| Goths. whose father, Theofred, was a
| duke or COrdOVa. During AraD supremacy,
the archiepiscopal palace, stable and
huerta were under one roof. Later, the In
QUESTION occupied part of the same build
ing: and half a century ago its lower por-
ton was converted into stables for the
| royal stations. A large open space close
| by, called the Campo Santa, was the scene
of many Christian martyrdoms under the
| Moslems. To visit the old high-walled
garden of the Alcazar, one must obtain
| special permission in town, and also pay an
| admission fee. In 1t the orange trees and
roses are still fourishing-or their lineal
descendants-which the first Arab ruler in
| Spain planted for his Sultana's pleasure,
| hundreds of years ago. The place seems
| haunted by the shades of dark-eyed beau
| ties secluded here-many thousands of
them during the five centuries of Moorish
occupation.
PICTURESQUE, But RISKY.
A favorite excursion is to the Hermatiges
of Val Paraiso-'vale of Paradise" in the
| Sierra Moreno, four miles distant. A car
rage may go most of the way. but mule
| back is better, for the road is extremely
rough in places and finally ascends by
paths too steep for wheels. Part of the
nav rms through charming woods. bright