davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1900-09-22

pointed bodice. and the hooded or capad
coat that belong to these.
: People call them Carrick capas, or
! coachlncn's capes: you will find them in
mems costumes from the days of Me-
dci to the French Revolution, and
women have borrowed them since peril
odlcally. Women wore them in 1882,
when they last wore paneled skirts ana
big sleeves. and then as now the capes
were graded in size. the smallest being
nothing more than collars. the biggest
coming to the waist line, nearly.
Capes, were put then MS now upon
dresses as we'll as upon coats, and With
the capes went hoods likes,thosa of a
burnous: the hoods have COMB back as
well as the capes, and the smartest coat
Of the autumn is either nuttering with
capes or else 1t has big hood for use or
ornament.
Another OF the seasons novelties Is
orlental-and mediaeval; between the
East and the long ago there are points
Of similarity.
a Moorish woman or Turk will wear
many moleros. one above another, us Il
she counted her wealth in them, os
Dutch women have done in petticoats.
The bolero that is the fashion this au-
tumn Is not clumsy like Its namesake
OF Turkey or Algiers, but like that 1t is
manifold; or 1t aims to appear manifold.
It has q whole series OF simulated
jacket fronts, Of graduated size and Diff
ferent finish that seem to lap each Other
as II they were separate garments or as
the thatch laps on the roof of cottage.
2 With the many jacket fronts go many
collars-or Carrick capes-and many re-
vers; the whole front OF a bodice may
be covered with revcrs of different COL
ors and materials, turning back one be-
hind another with wonderful amIty....
The sleeres that belong with these re.
vers and collars are bigger than they
have been and theyare growing. They
increase In every dimension. They nre
bigger Mt the top. or the Carrick capes
The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1900-09-22

make them look so; when they are not
capped there are little puffs or folds that
answer the same purpose-that OF CIV
Ing breadth to the shoulders. They arc
bigger at toe elbows. where they may
become suddenly bell-shaped and have
Florentlne undersleeves set in OF gath
cred ruches OF lace or net. They are
bigger at the bottom where they may
be finished in Venetian fashion. with
the undersleeve gathered into narrow
band from which falls an Immensely
large frill. deep at the back. though
narrowing on the inside OF the arm.
From shoulder to finger tip sleeves have
assured to themselves great import
ancc.
AS regards the length of skirts there
Is room for difference OF opinion. The
panelcd skirt has never been long
skIrt-ln front; though at the back It
allows 4 great extent Of train.
Advanced models from Paris are Of
ali lengths for all purposes. Ralny-day
The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1900-09-22

skirts, have Partisan sanction; exam
pies OF them are Imported that show al
the sureness OF the French touch and
thu cachet of French style.
M Tailor dresses barely touch the grouud
in front and Mt the back. More iressy
CLOTH costumes lie on the fooT for two
orsthree, or even four. inches, while re-
ceptlon and evening gowns abide, by or
increase the length of their graceful
train.
up-to-date winter millinery Is not
beautiful. Feather toQues and picture
hats are clumsy-fearfully SO ant Won.
derfuIly. One sees hat brims made Of
the wings OF, perhaps, twenty small
birds of different sorts and colors. as II
the wearer were hard put to get 1t for
headgear and picked up. anything and
everything In the line of feathers that
happened to coma handy. The crown of
such n hat will be a big knot of velvet,
and at the front win be placed the
birds whose wings form the sides.
TO adorn the big hats OF long halred
felt or beaver there comes bands o.
feathers fully five inches wide. Upon
these breast feathers of different colors
are utilized, and in grotesque imitation
Of sculpture many humm!ng birds or
other small and brilliant-wlnged crca-
lures are set in relief against the back
ground.
Big crows are perched upon hats or
seem In the act Of carrying them away.
To Insure the good behavior Of hawks.
owls, gulls and the larger run Of feath-
cred ornaments, they are commonly
bound down with ribbons that seem
knotted tight about neck and legs. as
one might hobble q horse or tie up
goose or insure the continued presence
of any other sort of lively property.
Something Of an Innovation is seen In
the combination Of feathers and fur.
Many Of the new fur coiiarettes have n
gull tethcred at the back of the neck
and another or two others where the
ends cross in front. Whole birds, big
and little, are placed on muffs, match
Ing the hat trimmings.
Most of the fur coats come short; but,
on the other hand. the most elaborate
evening wraps are of great length and
profusely trimmed with lace Aounces.
The golf cape, which has become 4
standard article of apparel. tends to
grow longer, and in some recent in
stances has become 4 full-length, en-
velopInG wrap. touching the heels.
ELLEN OSBORN.
The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1900-09-22
lievers. and. according to thelr knowl-
edge. beaten with stripes, manyiorlfaw.
Tho Teachers Lantern:

|
The spirit OF true Christian watchful-
ness is sometimes lost In the maz4s OF
arithmetlcal calculations of the date of
the second coming OF Jesus. He
watches best. who serves most dill
gently. -. Wesley's reply 10
the question what he would do IL he
knew he was to die next day Mt mid.
night was characteristics: 81 should do
Just whatI expect to do. Preach TO-
morrow morning at b. and meetthe
leaders. Preach in the afternoon at
F.. and ride over to Nj. where 1
should preach in the evening. Then 1
should so to bed to sleep. and awake in
glory" That is nm awaiting the,Lora's
coming, ideal and glorious. 49,. The
use of the probationary life as related
TO the life immortal is finely expressed
In the lines. Nj,
"SinceS1 am coming to that room,
Where with the choir immortal,
I shnll make thy music when L come, 4
| tune the instrument here ut the door,
And what l must do there, think here
before" rs
Jesus faithful servants are
to be exalted to highest rank conceiv-
able. The revelator saw thrones for, the
faithful. They shall be rulers. =.
The wisdom learned IN humble spheres
shall be useful to the mighty governor
of universe. His stewards. exalted,
shall share with him In some form of
dominance over all intelllgences. "Such
promise let no one contemplate jex-
cept when clothed in the profoundest
humility" 49,. Retributiye pun
ishment only can be expressed nIthe
language, Cut In sunder, appointed
portion with unbelievers.- and beaten
with many stripes" 1t is preposterous
to attempt to tone this down into "nf-
fectlonate chastisement for the moral
amendment of the mIsled." 1t Is also
significant that while grades OF sever
ity are plainly indicated, differences of
duration are not affirmed. 100.
Drunkenness is the fruitful cause5og q
misspent probation, and an unprepar-
edness for the Lords advent. A physl-
clan aptly defines drink as the devil in
solution. DevIllsll deeds are the CORE
late OF devillsh drink. ..t.a., Jesus
described proleptically a naughty and
arrogant hierarchy, set of ecclesias-
teal despots, which has since appeared
to disgrace his name and afiiict his
church. Woe to them when they fall
Into his hands,
The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1900-09-22
INTERNATIONAL S. S. LESSON.
September 90, 1900. Luke xii, 1916.
The Duty of Watchfulness.


's'' 'o'' '''7 '" "'e'' ''e e'oSe''
the last OF NIFTY pairs OF eyes. While
Ulysses slept. his sailors loosed the
h,,err, wtnds nj AeoIus Co ,bo c,,ss,os
~.
s'rikihsiS illustrating the necessity oil
eternal vigilance. 1t remains. however.
for the Divine Teacher. divestinr the
.rhioo, n, ,r,,,, oo,,on - ,oc, a.
.'''S'' '''.'h'e' ''''''eu' "''u e'o"'' y
the necessity upon n moral basis. This
Jesus does wheE he reveals the truth
that man Is Gods servant. What he has
he holds in ,ru.t for hi, 1,tor NJ 1,
II. -. sn,,,I. p'op' 49,
a. '''''i's' ii' 10
,,s,, e''e' 'u' an
1,,,, n,,o,,,,ts ps',i
:, H. co., =, 80, ~ % ."e "1''ee
"ep' Always III
''' ''"'s io'
har,,, ,nrooso,ah,s 49, 1890, 80, 10 ~
Ia, .on,,on,n, So ~ 'u'.' .ee''-
Iaa,,,. sn,,a,, .,,.,,. -" '"' p,sa
49,, MI sor,. 49, 49,, a., "l,'
,,as ro,h,n, !, III, 80. ,,'. 49,,
na1s... ,nY. h., :, a, va '' '','''
$500, ,.
,aa,.,, - ~ -. IT.. a., "
II Ma Tho oh,,, ~ Co, 49,. w . "."u'
.a.n M mh" a,,a,ataa NV ~ a -,
,nr r,, ,rov,,a ho1,,,. a",,, 1oa. :" " ~
,rho notes sn,rro,rs an, MI ' 70, Nv -.
noa,oo, ,rrnnr,aI. Nh. ,'s,,.,, mn' ~
The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1900-09-22

Y 2, . III. . =
front OF 4 dress. Sometimes strapplngs
OF cloth produce more lively counter
felt. z
Occasionally the panel is holder; It
lends Itself to skirts OF two materials.
1t appears in velvet when the skirt is OF
cloth. or In lace or embroidery, with a
falling overskir, of silk or other mater
ial.
The front panel deserves to be
thought formal; It is formal. 1t lenus
statel!ness to 4 woman OF height and
majestic carriage; 1t Is; the last style
that should be adopted by short and
stout person. ~
1t carries the thought away back to
the days Of Louis MIL, when beauty,
with her pretty couture adorned with
jewels. her goid-cmbroidered gayly COL
ored and richly ornamented dress open
IN front over an underskirt OF silk or
satin, her large puffed sleeves showing
undersleeves trimmed with lace and
love Rnots' and her. stifr, long-pointed
bodice all covered with gold. as II she
were an enchanted princess Imprisoned
In damascened armor, was indeed an
"elegante," but one to be approached
with .trepidation.
Velvet Is the material that the front
panel needs-velvet and damask md
;equins. And 1t gets them. 1t gets,
too. the pointed bodice that belonged
with 1t In the days OF R!chelieu.
Paquln and Doucet are cutting tight
fitting bodlces that run down to a
sharp. exaggerated point In front-such
a point as that to which were hooked
the draperies of the long, trained over
skirt in the days OF pannlers and Mime.
De Maintenon. }s'sff
That pann!ers, are coming now-cor.-
ing with our large. embroidered under
sleeves caught up 1T the elbow by bows
OF passementerie and ribbon: coming
with our hooded coats and our large
brimmed hats and our tichus; coming
with our love for laces and ru1les and
cameos-ls predicted by many,of course,
but the Issue Is not SO certain.
Our minds are not so certain. our
reasoning not SO direct; our knowledge
OF history. not might say. not SO accn-
rate; for We mix Napoleon with the
Louis and Josephine with Marie An
soiHette. and when 1t seems as il the
autumn girl must become Vatican
shepherdess. behold she done an En-
pire coat and trlcornc hat. and laughs
ut her medicyot dynastIes and centur-
les.
Prophecy is useless. but for the pres
ent we have the paneled skirt and the
The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1900-09-22
Wool,

BoSToN-The Commercial Bulletin
tomorrow will say Of the wool market:
The market continues dull. big buyers
come In punches, but purchase little
more than sample bags. There Is n de-
mand for CHEAP wool and some good
sales Of domestic secured. Foreign
markets generally easy and lower
prices are expected at London auction
sales opening October .. The sales for
the week were 1.563.OO0 pounds domestic
and $4,000 foreign. n total of l.GS1, 900
pounds for this week. against q total Of
1.l?2,0o0 last week and q total OF 1885,
900 for the corresponding week last
year. The receipts to date show de-
crease Of 220.65i bales domestic, an in
crease of 5S,226 bales foreign last year.
The sales to date show u decrease OF
S5,s26,COo pounds domestic and 25,S63So0
pounds foreign. ~
NEW YORE-Wool dull.
The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1900-09-22

Special Correspondence OF Intelligcncer.
: NEW YORK, Sept. 2o.-one OF the
most noticeable features OF new autumn
tisirts Is the front panel. y.
AS II invention had been squeezed
dry, We have In these days nothing but
REVEALS. S,si Z (.
The tablier or panel-fronted skirt is
revived from 1892, when 1t was revived
from 1875, when It was revived from
s:ho knows whentit was originated?
1t appears In costumes OF the. slx-
een1h and fourteenth centuries. It
tfas Ronau-ChrIsllan. It was Egyp-
Han. *
or late the tablier has been, thought
FORMAL, archaeological only to dowa-
i;trs. But this autumn 1t comes braves
" back ON costumes for women Of all
aEes. .,@,-s 49, =. sri.
And yet Its beginnings are modest. For
the most part it-ls stimulated by inser-
lions OF lace or by braid or embroidery
running UP and down each side of the
The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1900-09-22
Lambs. 81 oeG4 25.
Calves, 81 00G6 so.
Fresh cows, $50 to sS5 per head.
L.. al

LAMPS. 81 pTWi 70.
Calves, 81 00G6 so.
Fresh cows, $50 to SS5 per head.
Market. active.
CHICAGO-Cattle. receipts $500 head;
market generally slow: natives. best on
sale to-day. two carloads Mt S. 10: good
to prime steers IS 1895 90: selected
feeders So s0G4 65: COWS, So 90Gi 40:
heifers. So O0G5 10; bulls. 81 6094 60:
calves. 81 50G6 so. Hogs, receipts to-
day, $1,000 head: tomorrow, 1900 head;
left over, 1000 head; average fully &c
higher; market active; top, IS 10: mix
ed and butchers IS o0G5 10; bulk OF
sales SIS .30G5 So. Sheep. receipts 5000
head; sheep steady to slow: lambs so
10c lower; good to choice wethcrs
50 S0T4 a5; native lambs 81 0O@5 20.
EAST LIBERTY-Cattle steady: ex-
ira. IS 6005 80; common So 5O94 90.
Hogs steady: prime mediums IS $50
8 30: heavy Workers. IS SO95 IS: pigs,
IS 50d5 10; heavy hogs S. 55d5 65;
roughs, Sc 50T5 90. Sheep slow: choice
wethers 81 30G4 40: choice lambs IS COO
5 IS. Veal calves 81 o0G7 50.
CINCINNATI : Hogs active and
steady at 81 5044 GO.
The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1900-09-22

NEW YORK-Flour, receipts 20.4il
barrels; exports al.bl7 barrels; market
quiet but fairly steady, without much
change except for slight decline in
spring patents.
Wheat. receipts 1850 bushels: ex-
ports none: spot market firm; No. red
SS1sc I. o. b. afloat; options opened
steady: closed firm at &c net advance:
close: March S1lac; May. SIC: Septcm-
Der. S2Sc; October. S2%c; December,
s49sc. ID.
Corn. receipts 45.S25 bushels; exports
l57, 222 bushels; spot market firm: No. 2,
47!sc elevator: options opened steady;
closed firm at &c net advance: close:
May ilbci September. 4IHc; October,
45c: December, 41hc.
Oats, receipts 170.S00 bushels; exports
5.2l5 bushels; spot market firm; No. 2.
25c; options quiet. but steadier with
corn. "
Hay nrm. Hops quiet. Hides firm.
Leather ilrme Beef quiet.
Lard quiet; western steamed 81 IS: re-
fined quiet.
Pork firm. Tallow steady. Cotton
seed oil firm. Rosin quiet. Turpentine
irregular at 415G42c.
Rice firm. Molasses firm.
Coffee. spot Rio firm: No. { invoice
Sic nominal; mild quiet; futures OPEN
ed barely steady at to IL points lower;
closed steady at to 10 points net low
er: sales, 2o,25o bags.
Sugar. raw strong; fair refining 4Ac:
Centrifugal, &c test, &c; molusses sugar
4c. refined firm.
Observation-Disclosures firm and
&c higher; contract grade. September,
I5& 9Iic. Corn firm and %c higher:
No. 2 mixed September ASK 446c. Oats
steady: No. 2 white clipped. 2Sc. Butter
firm; fancy western creamery, 22sc.
Eggs firm and &c higher; fresh nearby,
lShc; do western. 1Shc. Cheesesfrm;
New York full cream fancy stock, 1lhc.
Refined sugar unchanged.
BALTIaIoRE-Flour firm; receipts
1869 barrels; exports 39S barrels.
Wheat dull; spot and the month i56
75Ac: October. 75c: receipts 1884
bushels. Corn dull; mixed spot and the
month 45Q45Ac; receipts 1854. Oats
firm; No. 2whlte 27,sG2Sc: receipts e.
2S2 bushels: exports none. Hay strong:
No. / timothy SIG 90 bid. Butter, eggs
and cheese firm.
TOLEDO-Wheat active and higher;
spot, s0Hc: October, size; November,
Sic. Corn dull and higher; No. 9 cash
and September 43c. Oats dull and un-
changed: No, 2 cash &c. Rye dull and
Unchanged No. 2 cash 54Ec. Clover
seed active and lower: October So 10.
= C1NCINNATI-Flour steady. Wheat
easy: No. . red 771s97Sc. Corn dull;
No. mixed 43c. Oats firm; No. 2 mix
ed &c. Rye steady: No. ?. 46G47c. Lard
quiet at 81 90. Bulkmeats dull at IS 90.
Bacon firm at 50 05. Whiskey firm at
81 20. Sugar firm.
The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1900-09-22
Dry Goods.

NEW YoRK-The general market for
cotton goods has been quiet to-day,
only q limited demand for brown sheet
ings and drills In evidence, but prices
arc very firmly maintained. Blcnched
goods have nm upward tendency. Coarse
colored cottons difficult to buy for quick
deliveries. Print cloths very firm. but
demand quiet. Prints and ginshnms
unchanged. Linens steady: sales mod
crate. Burlaps are advancing, demand
In excess OF supply.
The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1900-09-22
Wool dull.
Metals,

NEW YoRK-Tin experienced anoth-
cr setback in the local market for
metals falling on some 25 to s7lt points
on weak London cables, showing a loss
OF f1 there, which closed our market
with Il lower tendency on the basis OF
SCI 2562S 90. Aside from this there were
no material changes In the rest OF the
list Pig irou warrants were dull at
50 S7E4l0 31G. Lead dull at 81 3Tis.
Lake copper, though n shade steadicr,
was not quotably higher closing at
SIG l5Tl7 90. Spelter ruled quiet ut
81 lOGi l5. The brokers' price for lead
was 81 90, and for copper SIG 20.
The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1900-09-22
Petroleum,

OIL CITY--Credlt balances, 81 95:
shipments. S3,665 barrels; average, g3,OSi
barrels; runs, 9S,6l9 barrels; average,
9l,o66 barrels.
MEN YoRk-standnrd OIL Company
stock s5soI595.
4Tol lEDo-oll unchanged, ..4
The Hawaiian gazette., 1900-04-27
The Shipping Law.

When the new shipping laws go in
10 effect which will probably be some
lime in June, the following steamers
will be debarred from shipping pas
5engers and freight for or from San
Francisco or Honolulu: America, Nip
pon and Hongkong Maru, Gaelic, Dorlc,
Joptic and Moana. All the other
steamers which come from San Fran
cisco regularly are under the American
Tag. The Canadian boats will not be
Effected, as their starting point is in
British territory, as is also Vancou-
yer, the only other port on the Coast
1t which they stop. The Bloemfon-
elm will be replaced by two vesse IS
4ow building for the British American
steamship Line. The boats for which
Alexander a. Baldwin are agents Will
oe operated as heretofore, only touch
ng here on the way to San Diego from
he Orient. AS far as the passenger
,raflic Is concerned, 1t will be hamper
I'd until the completion of the Sonoma
md her sister ships and the Califor-
lian and her two prototypes, which
ire all promised within year.
The Hawaiian gazette., 1900-04-27
New Towboat Company.

The old talk OF a towboat company
being formed is going the rounds again
now that the government Is about to De
changed. There IS no law to prohibit
The new municipality of Honolulu from
going into the tow boat business II il
sees fit, but there is no law TO stop a
private concern from entering the field
either. News comes from San Fran
cisco that the Spreckels will send tug
here to enter into the business which
Is growing in Importance. Some effort
is being made to start q Merchants
Tow Boat Co, here with local capital.
The two steamer companies and the
principal business bouses are said to be
interested in the new venture.
The Hawaiian gazette., 1900-04-27

IN THE CIRCUIT COURT OF THE
FIRST CIRCUIT, HAWAIIAN
ISLANDS-AT chamberlain
PROBATE.
In the Matter OF the Estate OF Daniel
VIM. Roach, late of Honolulu, Ga
nu, Deceased Intestate.
Order OF Notice Of Petition for Admin
istration:
Petition having been filed by Annie
Roach, widow of said interstate, pray
ing that Letters of Administration
upon said estate be issued to Annie
Roach, notice is hereby given that Fri
day, the 18th day of May, A. d. 1900, at
10 o'clock a. m. in the Judiciary build
ing, Honolulu, Is appointed the time
and place for hearing said petition,
when and where all persons concerned
may appear and show cause, if any they
nave, why said petition should not be
granted.
Honolulu, April 10, 1900
By the Court:
GEORGE LUCAS,
2l69-3tF 20-27-May All. Clerk
The Hawaiian gazette., 1900-04-27
EXECUTORS NOTICE TO
CREUIT Rs.

THE UNDERSIGNED GIVE NO
lice that they are the duly appointed
and qualified executors OF the last will
and testament of Mary Kaumana
Widemann, late OF Honolulu, deceased.
All persons having claims against the
estate of said deceased, whether Sc
cured by mortgage or otherwise, are
notified to present the same, duly an
.henticated, with proper vouchers. II
any exist, to the undersigned at the Of
fee of +. w. Mac:ar.ane. in Honolulu,
within six months from date hereof, OF
The same will be forever barred.
All persons indebted to said estate
are requested to make immediate pay
ment TO the undersigned at the effies
OF +. w. Macfarlane.
II. II. MACFARLANH,
+. w. MACFARLANE,
J. NJ. D0WSETT,
Executors OF the viii Of Mary Kauma-
ma Widemann. 2lGs
The Hawaiian gazette., 1900-04-27
The Carson Sold,

The wrecked barkentine William
Carson has been sold by Mr.. c. l.
Wight of the Wilder Steamship Co.
10 a Mr.. Purdy, who will start In i'm
medlately on the work of wrecking the
vessel. The schooner Waialua has
oeen chartered from Harry Evans and
one of Thos. Whitelaw's old foremen
will have charge of the wrecking oper-
ltions. The first work attempted will
be to raise the donkey boiler of the
Carson, which Is worth in the neigh
OorhOod OF $1,000. 1t is then the in
lention to try and raise the vessel aft
er the masts and all rigging have been
cleared away. Whether the new at
tempt at wrecking will prove more
successful than the first effort remains
20 be seen. Work will commence to-
Qay