Evening star., 1900-08-18
MENSSTYLESFROMLONDON
LATEST FASHIONS OBSERVED IN
THE ENGLISH CAPITAL.
COIOred Shirts in Distinct Favor
Flannel Goods for Autumn Wear
Novelties In Socks.
London Correspondents the Haberdasher.

London Correspondents the Haberdasher.
The colored shirt in almost every possible
variety Of shade and design has now em-
phatically established itself. 1 will name
the six leading varieties of material In as
cending order Of costliness-cambric. silk
and cotton mixture batiste linen. spun silk.
silk and linen mixture. pure or bright"
silk. as the trade term is All these are
being worn and any one Of them Is "the
real thing" They must be made to meas
ure, with soft fronts, fastened with three
white perforated pearl buttons. The field
OF variety allowable in pattern and design
is extensive and practically any combna-
ton Of color and fantasy is permissible that
does not absolutely outrage artistic sense
One proviso must, however, be noted In
all except the simplest and neatest stripe
designs the cuffs must be of pure white
stiff linen. The corners of these cuffs are
usually rounded and they are made sufh-
ciently large to fairly grip the coat sleeve
inside One pattern 1 noted particularly in
the silk and linen mixture. 1t enjoys much
favor. The groundwork is white and Is
traversed in both directions, up and down
and across, by rows of stripes. The rows
run in sets, seven stripes in each set. Of
the seven stripes the center one is about
one-eighth of an inch wide. the others di,
minishing to the outer ones, which are 1-32
inch wide. The inner space left plain
white is one inch square, the width of each
set of stripes being also one inch. Thus the
general effect is a large square pattern,
each square being three inches across. The
stripes may be of any color fancied, but
such color must be uniform in each shirt.
These elaborate designs, however, are
chiefly used in the more expensive mate
rials. The cambrcs are mainly confined to
the simple narrow stripes set about one
half inch apart and running invariably up
and down.
n fhara nnSGfble
style and that is the pure plain white
linen. Ribs are incorrect A little license
is now allowed in cuff corners, which may
be rounded or square, according TO taste,
but to be absolutely correct they should be
square. By the way, all shirts, white or
colored, must be made to open down the
front, the old back-openers being quite a
thing of the past There is no fixed rule
for the width of bosom in dress shirts made
to order, and everybody who is anybody
now has them so made. l did not see a
single ready made shirt in the whole estab-
lishment. Generally speaking, however.
the width of bosom. and the depth, too. are
as large as possible. The glazed front is
invariably cut oval in shape to facilitate
the sit of the waistcoat And. by the way.
speaking OF waistcoats and with a due def
erence to the Prince Of Wales, " 40, l no
tice, still clings to them, the old pointed
cut waistcoat is now never worn by any
-dressy man. The waistcoat opening must
describe a graceful oval without corners
and without reproach. The front opening
OI d uTeSS shirt Un1SneS Abruptly with lne
glazed portion, and Is not now carried be-
low. This was tried as an experiment in
one or two quarters. but found wanting.
1t gives too much trouble at the laundry.
The correct thing in studs just now is to
wear three, plain pearl or plain gold Very
little is being done in coat shirts, which do
not seem to be making any headway in
London.
Is allowed in colored shirts. This is still
more so In the case of 'cravats. Never be-
fore In history has there been recorded such
a riot of variety in color and design. Your
tie must not absolutely swear" neither
must 1t even remotely resemble the un-
speakably vulgar patriotic" varieties, but
apart from this anything and everything
In shade and pattern seems to be correct.
l have seen even green and blue in combl-
nation. The prevailing cut consists almost
exclusively of the squares. A few de
Joinvilles are worn, but not many. Long
scarfs are very little worn and the "blan-
ket' is absolutely dead. The favorite style
of tie Is the small sailor knot, tied tightly
and with spreading ends. The knot is tied
smaller than last year, a circumstance
probably due to the increased height of
waistcoats. The marked decrease during
the last week SO in the number of bow
ties worn is due largely to the unreasonable
weather, rather than to any advent of dis
taste for that variety. A spell of hot
weather would certainly see a wholesale
return of the bow to favor. A point to be
noted is that white ties Of any kind are
even at weddings other festive func-
tons The favorite color and material
seems to be black or dark blue silk, with
some kind, or rather, any kind, of fancy
pattern woven in. The material is unlned
A few men, very few insist on their being
made reversible The favorite shade of
ponderates. AS l have said the taste in
color and design Is practically unlimited,
and combinations are calmly worn now that
would have been secuted few years ago
10 rata ling
simplicity. An inch wide and square ends
sum up its attributes. l have noticed
however. an increased use of that peculiarly
artful method of tying which originated l
believe. on your side, and which had for its
object the elimination of those objection
able clips for keeping the tie in its place
on the stand-up collar. Briefly described
the tying process proceeds as usual until
the second loop comes to be dealt with
when instead of forming it in the ordinary
way the end is pulled right through, the
loop end tucked under the COLLAR and drawn
out at the top of the collar BY its means
the bow is pulled down tightly to its place
and then the loose end is tucked away down
the neck. Carefully and properly done this
will keep the tie in its place for the whole,
evening, the clips not being required
Correct taste in gloves is confined for the
present to the plain suede or soft buckskin
in various shades of drabs or grays. The
backs are quite plain, no embroidery and
few spear points. Embroidery is absolutely
TABOO, out spear points may be worn with
a heavy buckskin variety of walking glove
and also the tan leather driving glove;
never. however, with the suede or dress
glove. The correct fastening consists dr
one or two plain gilt buttons; patent clasps
of every species are forbidden. For even
ing dress the light pearl glace gloves that
look almost white in artificial light are
chiefly worn. These also have the plain
ribbed backs.
Something new in day socks was shown
me. They are made in blue. black or brown
Nottingham silk, ribbed over an underwear
ing of different color. light. blue, gold or
red. When stretched on the foot this un-
der color shows up the effect being very
pleasing and smart. In addition, some OF
the socks are crossed with the same under
colors In narrow stripes. set about one inch
apart. For evening dress the black silk
sock with laced 'front.' showing some fancy
color underneath. is the correct thing
Some exceedingly handsome things in the
way Of lounge smoking jackets are being
worn just now. The latest variety of this
luxurious garment is made of best Spital-
fields silk In sort of subdued royal blue,
lined throughout with black silk quilted on
to thin layer Of cotton WOOL The collar
lapels, which are cut shawl pattern and
very low, are In terra Gotta silk, continued
round the collar and repeated in three-inch