davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Independent. [volume] (Honolulu, H.I.) 1895-1905, 1900-04-24
LOCAL AND GENERAL NEWS

LOCAL AND GENERAL NEWS
The band plays at the Queens
Hospital this afternoon.
Attorney Straus will voluntarily
prosecute cases of cruelty to animals
for the present.
10x4 Bleached Sheetings, 20 cents
yard, for one week only at l.. b.
Kerr g. Co, Queen street.
A grand opportunity to replenish
your sheetings and pillow castings
for one week only at Kerr q Co.'s.
Don't fail to ring up Telephone
444, American Messenger Service, il
you have any messages or packages
to deliver.
TheApew bill at the Orpheum
caughVon we'll last night, and was
received by full house with con-
slant applause.
When you want hack ring up
1911. On that stand you will get a
reliable and good driver, fine hack,
and no overcbarging,
Fourteen Austrians arrived 10 the
Dorc. They were put aboard the
Lehua for Kihei, where they go to
work on the plantation.
Special bargains for the gentle.
men Hats and Caps, Shirts, Collars
Cuffs and Neck Ties, for one week
only, at l.. B. Kerr g. Co., Queen
Street.
The annual meeting OF st. An.
drew,s Cathedral congregation will
be held in the Sunday School room
on Thursday evening next at 8.
The City Carriage Co. is now ir
the livery business. 1t has bugges
surreys, wagons, ETC., on hand at al
hours Of the day or night. Tele
phone lib.
Horace Lewis died at the Queen,
Hospital this forenoon. He former
ly belonged to the Mounted Patrol
and on Saturday evening last wa,
thrown from his horse at Kapukaki
beyond Moanalua.
Mrs. M. d. Hendricks has present
ed the, Bureau of Agriculture ano
Forestry with a choice lot of seed
OF palms, fruits and ornamental
plants from the Royal Botanica
Gardens, Ceylon.
Every Person who has seen tn,
values offered by l.. b. Kerr s. Co
Limited, Queen street, are surprised
most particularly at the full dres
shirts for ST each, .aud at the beauti
full black sock hermsdorf dye, 2 pal
for 25c.
The management of the Victori
Hospital desires 10 thank the kim
donors of material, nightshirts, hen:
jellies and flowers, and to say tina
their gifts have been highly ap
preciated by the inmates Of tn
hospital.
The Punahou and :Kamehameh
baseball teams will play series @
FIVE games OF BASEBALL during the mex
five weeks The first game will TAX
place at Pupahou grounds at 3:3
o'clock Saturday afternoon, Apr
the 25th.
A corporation is forming to blu
ont the plumbing business OF the lat
John Phillips. The intention is
increase the business largely. Th
corporation will be capitalized q
$5O,0C0, a large part OF which is a
ready subscribed; and the article
will be filed very soon.
The funeral of the late Henry |
Roberts. master mechanic OF tn
Oahu Railway. was he'd yestarda
afternoon at 4:30 from the Knight
of Pythias hall. The pall.bearel
we're Thomas Murray and Willial
Roberts of the Oahu Railway, Josep
Little and Harry Wcoten OF tt
i
New-York tribune., 1900-09-23

authority that a black and white season is certain
After the prevalence of the pastel tnts, which are
undeniably beautiful. but lacking in strength this
sedate combination is positive relief
Peau de sole is shown being desirable. osDe-
Cially In grays tans, reseda and GObelin blue.
PhOsphorlZed silk is also included In the 'nCu-
veautes and is particularly soft and beautiful in
effect especially in the light evening tints.
This firm Is displaying unusually attractive line
Of boudoir gowns. y dainty confection Is negiigee
cream lace The long. straight front is the distinc-
tive feature of the lingerie.
In the cloak and suit department the tailor gown
is distinctly in eVi,'< AS to colors. the most
distingue is black, but gray, brown ard green are
named close faVorites. Something IN a
tailor made waist Is termed Etuu blouse. The
back is short and close fitting and is belted at the
waist with strap of the suit material, The pedes
trian skirts steadily gaining in favor and II is
rumored that skirts for street wear viii all be
short. The height o. the new styles is reached in
these skirts which are of freze. melton, cheyot
and homespun. Thoy open in front and are
finished with Tapped seams and a tailored pocket.
The millinery attractions are many ana V1ri"d
Green seems destined to have long run, and the
purphsh blues are III high favor Delicate pearl or
ivory Is preferred to pure white, while the khaki
colors, ranging from dun yellow TO rich brown,
are preferable 10 the castor shades.
soft. creamy tulle and finished with long jet
buckle and velvet streamers was late importation
from Mime. Nirot. a dainty tOque Of rose pink
mousseline dc sole was yelled In m2lines. The left
side. slightly raised, showed two fulblown tea
roses resting upon the hair. large rosette of
black ribbon wac attached to the front, back Of
which was pink plume aisrctte.
New-York tribune., 1900-09-23
LACES FOR WINTER WEAR.
PRINCESS WRAPS IN EMPIRE STYLE AND
EXQUISITE GOWNS OF RENAIs-
SANCE AND CLUNY

Laces are still the elegant and costly article
of wearing apparel put forth by importers and
Dealers ard-every woman readily comedies that
! they occupy important place in her Views and
ideas upon dress Realizing this fact, the firm
of Adams & Co. SiNth-ave. Twenty-arst and
Twcnty-second sts.. has anticipated the demand
for garniturcs and trimmings of lace. and this
particular department of their store-always
popular ones just noticeably complete and
attractive
The wonders OF the season seem to have culmi-
mated in the lace and trimming world, and moth
ing more gorgeous ana elaborate can be imagined.
I Whole gowns of wondrous lace. made by ma
chimes more dett than human fingers, tempt
ingly displayed.
Entire Princess wraps of lace. cut In Empire
style, with applques of velvet in floral designs
upon the already richly embroidered lace are
striking novelties Boleros of real Arabian. Re
nalssaEce and Point de FlandTes. likewise square
and sailor collars. are greatly in demand
Real laces beins used to a remarkable de-
gree Cuny, Arabian Point d'Alencon and
Renaissance taking the lead. Imitation Cluny viii
rot be used SO extensively. the real thing being
employed whenever possible
Spanish lace seems to have returned to favor.
and may be had in yellow. as in black and white.
Spanish on6 Chantily sashes are novelties which
are intended 10 be worn with evening toilets.
Handsome batiste waists are coming more AM
more in vogue anu much used as trimming
for both cloth and silk gowns
These shown in beautiful patterns. Copied
from rare old designs and embroidered ecTu
| In entire rohcs Renaissance and black CIuuy
are extremely modish while white and Scru Ijerre
out band or iace made from the allover and
sewn together In contrasting that's Broad diamond
and loop patterns are thus Er.af.cad and formed
! by hand into the aLover material Of newer and
An exquisite combination of resi Renaissance in
| chiffon: in flour De lis pattern, displayed as
an exclusive novelty. and W@S extremely beautiful
/ in design. The ever popular Russian lace is used
extensively for the insertions and hands which are
a favorite establishment for the demI toilet broad
New-York tribune., 1900-09-23
CLOTH IN ALL COLORS.
TWO HUNDRED AND FORTY-FOUR r
SHADES ARE BEING SHOWN IN THIS
NIATERIAIl-CREPE METEORE
CHARMING FABRIC FOR
EVENING GOWNS.

The disappearance Of summer makes the re-
plenshing of the wardrobe with new and cor
rect attire an all important consideration At Lord
& Taylor's, Broadway and Twenteth-st., the new
fall silks and dress goods come in for early
showing, and attracting the attention which
they so justly deserve.
The fact that this firm is displaying hroadcloths in
24s shades Is sufficient indication that this is the
fabric which will be most used for street gowns
The coming tnts are of course, L'Aglon and all
the pastel shades. The new ferraille or gun metal
tone, is shown one of the seasons novelties
Golf red is much in evidence. and whole costumes
of this brilliant hue will be during the coming
winter.
Black fabrics will be modish and popular. and
black and white will be a favorite combination.
Scotch and English cheviots and homespuns many
of them rough faced, offered in a wide assort-
ment Of coorng and various combinations Of plaids
and stripes. and also solid colors. There are no
more serviceable materials for general utility wear
than these cheviots and homespuns.
For evening gowns a fabric called crepe
meteore is well received. Owing to its extreme
softness and pancy it adapts itself particularly to
the Empire gown, which is of the leading
models. 1t be confidently stated upon the best
New-York tribune., 1900-09-23
~BET WEBN SEASON" SUITS
A WAY or REPLENIsHING 4 SUMNER
WARDROBE UNTIL THE WINTER
STYLES ARE ASSURED.

uross fabrics OF more than usual variety ara tbs
KEYNOTE Of attraction at James McCreeTy & Cos
broadway and Eleventh-st- The rovelty fabrics
ire so numerous and diversified % defy classi-
hna.ioa material that Is particularly striking IN
appearance is Ornamented with bands representing
Persian lamb; these either plain OF studded az
wide intervals with gilt buttons. The effect Is
smart and he stun should appeal to dressmakers.
as II requires no trimming and lends Itself readily
to either a draped or severe costume
Several furs have been copied IN cloths. They
all in the Persian lamb weave. but according 20
their color are termed chlnchilIa beaver. blue fox
mink and lamb. These are beautifully soft IN
texture and would be suitable for gowns OF chill
drens coats and wraps
\ stitched cloth that has the tiny stitches woven
in the fabric is delicate in design The stitches
outline pretty floral patterns and -he tones are
subdued the design IS only noticeable in "A strong
light Waist materials varied for the winter
rs their cotton predecessor were for the sumner
they are sof light in weight and usually en-
Eroidered This firm has some fannels exqusitelv
embroidered and Of special manufacture for the al
ways useful shit waist The prices range from
moderate figures to those in proportion 20 the
handsome cmbroderies- The quality IS uniformly
the best.
The millinery department. just now celebrating
its entrance into the autumn trade is growing
rapidly Tie models exhibited original. cleverly
constructed. and IN the good taste that enables
purchaser to select a hat that may be worn well
Inspected.
Table linens usually interest the hOusekeePer az
this season of the year, when summer guests ard
entertainments have made inrOads into the linen
cIceet and Thanksgiving and fall dinners have 70
ne prepared for. The cloths, Eap pkins and all such
table lingerie are in most complete and extensive
new aud most attractive. and the Weaves % the
finest ever spun from fax Centrepieces. scarts.
New-York tribune., 1900-09-23
FOR CALL ROUND" WEAR.
QUANTITIES OF MADE Up" GOWNS
THAT ARE BOTH STYLISH AND
SERVICEABLE

If the woman who desires TO be classed as well
dressed" and who is in quandary about what she
shall buy, will pay visit to Simpson. Crawford &
Simpson, SiXth-ave.. Nineteenth and Twentieth
sts she will find a wide assortment in every line
Of goods calculated to crafty her most trivial
desire.
rs to dress materials. every novelty in the new
wooIlen fabrics is presented. including the broad
tyvilled diagonal cheviots in fancy melanges-dull
reds old blues browns and other tones with light
camers hair threads woven in loosely, giving a
SOFT rich heavy effect besides the practical plain
cloths and Zibelines.
In made up costumes there will be found all
-rades-the rainy day OUTFIT and the shopping cos
tune in the smartest of materials and distinctly
proper in cut. length and ht as we'll as the more
elaborate for afternoon and evening functions
A stylish costume for all round wear is one of
the newest and highly favored designs. 1t is in
plum colored cloth with decided reddish tinge.
and is made with the popular gored skirt and a
Russian blouse. The latter has double breasted
front and two rows of large military buttons The
belt, cuffs and collar made OF gold braid over
which is ladder effect in bands of the CLOTH
with the gold braid showing between. The under
sleeves of silk. gathered to the cuffs
handsome blue cloth costume, quite elaborate
in its makeup has full blouse with the top and
bottom cut i'm long, narrow tabs, which overlap an
underbody made of white silk folds. These tabs
New-York tribune., 1900-09-23

and as many birds. apparently. If no Audubon
society existed, and the prevailing is the nat
@pPIigailon Of trimming. Feathers sweep graceful
~. Ihey no longer stand audaciousy. Bows are
fnasseo at the side front instead Of al the
top. Al the fashions seem made for the fashion
aoly tai women. Little women must make their
own.
The neckwear is deserving Of special attention.
as II j. fu Of exclusive ideas carried out for the
mouse by Paris!an needleWomen who are artistes
IN their occupation and make for other house
IN america Exquisite designs abound. few Of
which are duplicated even in the house and none
appear elsewhere.
N street neckwear Is a fascinating black chiffon
Fuching. with long ends Of the chenille fringe
q yard ia depth.
The Wenamaker dispay Of silks, is altogether
Dewitching. The sCfiest Liberty silk. with polka
cots. comes ia evening shades only while similar
quality, with cords and dots. Is supplied in street
shades also. All the silks distinguished by
their exquisite softness and pliaDity Peau Nitas
peau chamCis, gros de Londres and crepe crys-
talne OF the lovely WcaVes OF silks
novelty for winter use is piaided silk which IS
10 be used freely for waists and panels as well as
for chilcren's frocA-.
New-York tribune., 1900-09-23
AGAIN THE HIGH HEELED SHOE.
WITH MANY WHO WEAR THE SHORT
WALKING SKIRT

An inspection Of seasonable footwear for wom-
en-, displayed by A. J. Cammeyer. Sixth-ave. and
Twentieth-st, reveals the fact that the broad toed
heavy soled boot stil remains in favor for the
street.
There seems to be tendency. however. to re-
volt from the common sense shoe which has OBJ
tanned for the last two seasons and slight modi-
cation Of the bulldog tee IS noticeable The result
is undeniab!y becoming, If not altogether hygienfo
and makes the reign Of the short skirt more endur
able from an artistic point of view. Calfskin and
enamel will be the feathers mostly used for this
style of boot.
The military heel still maintains its popularity
and the indications that the coming season VIII
see the high heel much in vogue.
Dainty slippers for evening wear are seen In satin
bronze and velvet. These have medium toes and
the extremely high Louis XIV heel. A black velver
slipper, utterly devoid Of ornamentation is shown
as the absolutely correct thing for evening, wear
three strap slipper. with bead design on toe and
straps is particularly effective for occasions upon
which elaborate footwear is required. The correct
afternoon dress shoe still retains the Caledonian
tip. which has been favorite for the last season
A decided novelty Is the automobile shoe which
IS a low patent leather pump, finished with plain
riage robe is not permissible in an automobile the
feet are naturally conspicuous, and should be e.
fectively shod.
The new riding leggings for women are of pig
skin, and are exact duplicates of those worn by
New-York tribune., 1900-09-23

a shoulder care and Is adorned with bowknOts Of
black lace inserted = white foundation, with
Renaissance applique on the edge The entire gar
Tent is edged wiki black satin oak leaves Applique
The wrap illustrated Is called The Mamaison. and
represents tn- period When Josephine relghed there
II Il Of black velvet, with gold laYiShly employed
IN the embroidery.
One Of The lOVeiicst hats Of the seasons showing
IS OF chinchla, with TOD Of crushed bows OF pastel
blue Liberty ribbon. The upward faring brm is
filled in with white maliueS and blue Liberty satin,
with a small cluster Of tea roses and foliage. a
picture hat OF the fayorite red IS like a great
crushed poppy and has long ties of red chiffon
starting from d putting On the banGeau.
child'S nat that is especially dainty is 'ac-
cCrdioned' brim OF silver gray panne faced with
blue. The plateau IS covered by bows Of pale
blue. gray ana heliotrOpe Liberty ribbon.
The exhibition Of millinery is particularly rich in
handsome mourning hats.
There are buckles, many and large, cog feathers
New-York tribune., 1900-09-23
TO CHOOSE A WINTER HAT.
MYRIAD STYLES FROM WHICH TO Sc
LECT ONE THAT Is BECOMING
AND UP TO DATE.

The millinery department of the Big Store" of
the Siegcl-Cooper Company. Sixth-ave.. Eighteenth
and Nineteenth sts.. is the pivot which all IN
terest centres Just at this time. Fashions ana
fances are at all times variable, particularly IN
regard to headgear. that very important item OF
the fashionable woman's wardrobe. and the seasons
modes indicate a wide range in shapes and color
effects Green. ia its variety of shades and tones.
promises to be a leader" closely followed by
brown. tan and castor.
The Aiglon is the desired favorite for early
autumn wear. and its popularity bids fair to con-
tinue during the entire season. One OF these hats
was shown in gray blue felt with bands Of white
velvet around the crown. At the side was placed
military pompon of coque feathers, giving the
necessary tauntiness and dash. which is the dis
tinctive feature OF this style of hat
One of the newest turbans has draped crown OF
black velvet studded with silver sequins. pro-
fusion of black roses and green shaded foliage COM
pleted this stylish hat
Many of the French importations are all black
and marked by a simple and quiet elegance a
Camille Roger picture hat of black chenille and
mousseline dc sole had for its decoration bands OF
coo feathers ana handsome steel buckles.
The fancy for black velvet ribbon shows no
diminution, as the possibilities of this decorative
feature almost unlimited.
A Gainsborough of black beaver heavily trimmed
with ostrich plumes, particularly noticeable
for its unique addition OF a scarf of black chiffon
be around the neck, and gracefully fast
ened on the left shoulder with the Aiglon buckle
which is an eagles head of duh gold. heavily
studded with brilliants
The plateau" which from its extreme fatness
is so trying to most faces was shown In variety
OF color combinations
A handsome model for carriage a soft
brown felt, the medium brim of which faced
with moussene de sole in exquisite shade Of
blue, combined with amber. The drapery forming
the outside trimming of the two shades of
New-York tribune., 1900-09-23

mousseline. This arranged about the lower
part Of the crown in artistic folds forming fancy
knot on the left side. The hat further
mented with a spray OF amber colored roses, held
in place by filigree buckle set with turquoises
In the cloak and suit department much activity
noticed and the models show { scded
departure from those of last season.
The fact that La Mode has many strings her
bow Is evidenced IN the diversity of the cut, style
and finish of the new fall gowns In nothing is 1t
more noticeable just now than in the skirts. Some
have the long Directoire tunics and others are
side p!eated in loose peats which are different from
the stitched tucks that have been all summer
particularly handsome gown Of black chiffon
and lace was made with wide. harng skire. fin
ished at the bottom with many ruf1es, edged with
black baby ribbon. The vest of white chiffon was
garnished with quantities Of gilt braid and finished
with high stock collar Of iridescent panne velvet
in pastel shades. street gown OF gray Venetian
cloth, with vest and of stitched velvet was
extremely chic
New-York tribune., 1900-09-23

The second figure illustrates a costume of VeREe-
tian cloth having Il broadcloth finish. It Is SILK
lined and the skirt is cut with ripple bottom.
which is Joined under three rows of black SILK
braid. The jacket shows vest OF white cloth
trimmed in straight rows of black and gold braid.
and is further ornamented with tiny gilt buttons.
The jacket fronts show clusters OF black braid mn
fishing under tiny black buttons
The imported hat accompanying this costume is
made in two shades of velvet. with plain under
brim. while the upper side, as We'll as the crown,
is covered with narrow bias folds of the lighter
velvet bound on the lower edge with the darker
shade and slightly gathered at the upper edge. so
to encircle the hat easily. full cocks plume
starts from a gilt and jewelled pin at the right,
and curves over the edge of the appraised brim to
the left. The crown is lifted from the hair at
this side by attached band, upon which IS ar
ranged knot of the velvet
New capes In faced cloth are unlined, moderately
long, and have edge finish.
New-York tribune., 1900-09-23
lrxrvoRK DAILY TRIBUNE SUNDAY. SEPTEMBER % 1900
ATTRACTIVE EXHIBIT.
HATS AND GOWNS FASHIONED IN THE
LATEST MoDES-"MEN TAILORED
SUITS FOR WOMEN.

4 general view of the exhibit of fine millinery
at H. O'NenTs sixth-ave.. Twentieth and Twenty
first sts soon convinces one that the topheavy ar
fairs in last seasons hats things of the past
and the low crowned hat is the most decided ana
distinctive characteristic Of the new millinery
Velvets of all sorts are prevalent ana seVe'ai
shades are combined In one shape. and whether one
or more are used they are seldom drawn tightly
over the frame and tucks. folds, pleas or wrinkles
appear instead OF a smooth surface.
In the picture hat illustrated the latest device OF
the milliner's art is shown in the makeup The
crown and upper brim are entirely covered with
shrred velvet and there Is an absence of garni'iTe
OF any kind, it being all placed on the under ofiH
This Is smoothly faced with velvet. and a drapery
of gold lace Is gracefully intermingled with two
ostrich tips, which start from beneath bronze
buckle at the right and curve in the opposite drec
ton. The color Of the velvet is "a light tooacco
brown and the tips match il perfectly IN S'aue-
charming novelty in hats is a combination or
felt of two contrasting shades made In the Mar
duise' shape Black and white are effective IN
such combination. and likely TO lead in favor
The large line of autumn cloaks and suits AZ
this establishment Is. ever. successful ana
artistic and includes their new "men tailoEed
suits for women. which carefully constructed
as any garments for the opposite sex ny ar aiS
made in all the new wool fabrics ana niiSheu
Two extremely fashionable costumes are illus
trated One IS made or olack PeoDe cITEbt' rJb sTd
lined with black taffeta. 1t has Russian blouse
with fare collar covered rd WIFI % siseves fare
slightly below the elbow and are hnlsheo OH WIN WIZ
full undersleeves Of black tanet9 gaInereqj j, in,O 40
ogidze6 oqT Of ths yer sTaid CLASH pne pointed 0'''
The hat which accompanies this costume Is - d
iaunty toque of two shades or mignonette srt5n tf
velvet, with two black ostrich tips GuTylng 70 the
left The apex OF the bs Is nd1 smp P C
ments catch the velvet drapeTy at the sides