Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-01-06
What Possibilities 1t Had for Clever
Girl
LIGHTNING CHANGES WROUGHT
oundation for Four Pretty Dress
Up Gowns.
A PRESENT AT THE START
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.

| NEW YORK, January 4, 1900
| This is the tale of taffeta silk lining. 1t
was a rick silk, both in quality and color
| being a warm rose pink, and it was owned
| by young woman who, although not poor,
had SO slender an allowance for dress that
it is probable she and the taffeta silk lining
| would have moved in different circles had
| the latter been animate. For although the
taffeta silk lining was Iowly born, it was,
| as have said, rich
The young woman did not buy the silk
1t was given her by an aunt who, like her
| gift, was rich Gust like aunts in story
books. and who gave her at the same time
a gray crepe de chine. If she had been a
real story book aunt she would, Of course,
| have added a white taffeta pettcoat, gray
| silk stockings, suede gloves of elbow length
| patent leather ties and a toque turban
of richest, slossiest black. not to mention
lace and silver paillettes for trimming, also
! net or tulle for a guimpe thrown in. But
In real life aunts do not remember the ac-
cessories. 1t is only in story books or fairy
! tales that a dress box contains everything
the heart can desire to complete costume.
| Inc young woman was popular, aud on
| many occasions before Lent pretty frocks
| would be needed, and the fresher the bet
| ter. Her father was dear. and this rose
pink silk and gray manipulated with her
| Christmas money and some remnants of
last winters wardrobe, would be all she
| would need, and his pocket would not suf-
fer and his eyes look graver on her account
If money would be high" whatever he
| meant by that. So that lining was pres
ent which was as acceptable as it was IN
expected.
| Genius for Management.
Now, rose pink silk lining has In 1t pos
sibilities which only the eye of genius can
| grasp Under black net 1t is dark cloud
with a rosy lining. Under gray crepe de
chine it would be a glowing sunset, veiled
but not obscured. Under white it would re-
| mind one of apple blossoms, and when it
was worn under pink tule of the same
shade its owner would be a forerunner of
| sunrise All these possibilities she foresaw,
Tor her wits had been sharpened in many
directions by that blessing in Disguise
| poverty.
the manner in which the lining should be
made. There were more yards of it than
rich aunts usually buy, so 1t was decided
to have two waists, one high necked and
one decollete, and petticoat fitting snug
| ly at the top, but rather generous about the
| bottom, with two plated ruffies of taffeta
The petticoat had to have a little train, of
| course, and sorely its owner rebeled
against this decree of fashion which made
| it necessary for her to take such frightful
| chances on dancing floor. not only with
| also with a cherished petticoat whose ruin
meant the downfall Of many frocks OF
| course, both taffeta bodices were plain
| and neither had sleeves.
| The First Use.
| The crepe de chine which was to be a
| reception gown, was made on a princess
| model, which yet had a box-plaited back
| to its skirt and which did not have the
front bias taken in very much, thus rely
| ing for fit on the curved seams under the
| arms. The sleeves wrinkled from elbow to
| shoulder, but even these were very snug,
as crepe de chine is a clinging material.
This mousquetaire effect was wisely adopt
| cd, in spite of the epidemic of very snug
| sleeves now upon u.s. for well the owner
of the pink taffeta silk lining knew the try
| ing effect of a very long sleeve clinging
| tightly to the arm with no cross lines
whatever. The neck was finished with
plain high silk collar, for stocks of different
| colors We're to be worn over 1t as occasion
| demanded.
| Variety in Stocks.
| There was a stock of pink tulle matching
the lining, with distractingly pretty bow
| OF tulle, which was simply two fluffy ends
Of it caught in the center by buckle of
rhinestones, which had come off an old
| hat-a small buckle, it was, fortunately
| There was a black velvet stock and when
| this was worn little knots of velvet We're
| added at the wrists, otherwise lost entirely
| in pointed finish of the sleeve falling over
the hand, and with this stock she also
wore, fastened on the left side of her gown,
a velvet bow with long ends which reached
| within a few inches of the hem of her
| frock. OF course, there was a white stock,
| which was made of crepe de chine coming
up in little points behind her ears, and had
| about the top the narrowest edge of black
fur. Persian lamb. And there was also an
| deliberately constructed stock of the gray
| crepe de chine itself, which had about the
| top some pink and gold Persian pattern
embroidery, and had bow, which was
| likewise ornamented with the embroidery.
No one who had not carefully studied the
different aspects of a gown made or mar
| red by its stocks. and so totally changed
by different effects. would have given the
collar finish such elaborate treatment
! For evening affairs, where dancing was
not to be INDUCED in, a decollete waist of
crepe de chine. finished about the top of
the bodice with narrow white and gold
embroidery, was made. This necesstated
second skirt of crepe de chine, as the
reception dress was a real and not simu- ,
lated princess.
An Economic Question.
And just here the wisdom of the young |
woman whom poverty had blessed may be |