The Republican journal., 1900-02-08
csdiz. 1.-THE Silver Dish" OF Modern
Spain.

, orope scenes in a Spanish Seaport.
so4,.ial Correspondence of The journal |
t-,nrz. SPAIN, Jan. 3, 1900. Remem-
,1ug that this oldest city of Southern
.r,pr IS half as old as the world itself,
fdlng to the Hebrew tradition)-that
bid. Ilss dwclt here, and the ancient phil
..atrrs, believing it to be the very end
fh, earth, came here to study the curl
,benomenon of the tides-one is more
more aStonished at its look of newness.
Ar As appearances go, its foundations
Hl nave been laid last year, instead of
.. -hau three thousand years ago, and
..r. AS you may, hardly a trace of an
..D cau be found. Even the famil-
.. marks of the Moors are etfaced,
....a tAen five hundred years suprem-
aunated at a comparatively recent
The explanation lies about equal
rAeeu whitewash, religious fanati-
rJ British conquest. After the
.iuent of Cadiz by Lord Essex, lin
winch began Spain's bankruptcy,
,acking of her richest city and
4ruge of thirteen men of war and
,ze galieons laden to the gunwales
-.s4sures from her western posses
lie ,lIy had to be almost entirely
and it was done according to
IDEAS, with wider streets and tall,
ulace houses. What the English
atiquity, Romish zeal carefully
red. in the effort to eiface every
heather occupation. Hence
court yards disappeared, and
uU windows and mosaics of softly
Oriental hues. To-day Cadiz is
place in Spain, or any of her
.-uue. in which the patio does not
Instead of low walls, rambling
eutrai court yards, after the pic
Moorish fashion, the free stone
lle three or four stories in height !;
tnem with mirddoreS, or open OBJ
It> on top, in which families spend
DAYS gazing into the streets or
l.. Inc line breeze and sea views.
Moorish custom of hiding the women
.m public view by penning them in
.o. has given place to the modern
U dea Of female liberty allowing
. r ste and be seen of men, but
..7 Guarding them from speech and
lhe little glass cage, or mirador,
.4use-top.
worst of reconstructed Cadiz is that
-g Is so glaringly, painfully, dead
Auta No wonder there are thou
Degg Is in the streets an nearly
mly YOU meet has some &c sease Of
t,s The law compels house owners
ar east one ccat of whitewash
L .ai The everlasting monotonous
.. embined with the vivid blue IF
,k brilliant sunshine and lack uf
ers, owes the foreigner a constant
and necessitates smoked isss,
N- rs ton mountain climbing amid
-ulWs. one longs to paint the
.. rHI tl paint it blue, OF green, or
0.rr DnioI than this relentless, daz-
H-Gestraying white. The name,
way, is pronounced as if spelled
.th he tlowery spanish histori-
Nlicro, called it IAN ivory model,
ueraid, but now a-days, the ma
i-hr TO speak of 1t as Una taza he
IA Silver Dish'-so clean and
is. compared TO anything else in
-s population is about seventy
hutas the census is never taken
aaeis notoriously given to crowd
lose quarters, it is difficult to
correct estimate. Situated on
lad narrow pfomontory, with the
-1I an one side and a deep sea inlet
other, ,-Cadiz has been unpoetical-
ard TO a ham in contour. The city
forms nearly perfect square,
so miles on each side. Its straight,
yed, well lighted streets all begin
4 at the water S edge-or rather at
amparts which surround the town
@Ti TO fort. This high ea-wall is
'le chief attractions of Cadiz. 1t is
ea with little gardens, full of bright
Lelaniums and fragrant heliotrope;
l-le and there larger space, such as
amcda, and the Marine Promenade,
lands play every evening and all
al world comes out to enjoy the
and the sunset view across the
.-'eln ocean. All day long Andalusian
maids loiter about the ramparts,
tg to their charges and flirting with
soldiers; and fishermen dispute with
se of screaming sea birds for the sal
or delicious red mullet. There are
any of the latter, with their long,
ing canes forever dangling over the
-r that theiI patience has passed into
Noyerb-''la pacienca de un pescadol
a0a." The Alameda is a charming
provided with trees, benches, foun-
and a ridiculous statue of Hercules,
under of Cadiz, whose etfigy, Crap
With two lions, forms the arms OF
ltY and appears everywhere, upor
hoards and facades. At the eastern
the Alameda stands the quaint ole
of Carmen, in which is the tomt