The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-04-29

sleeping beggars, Its double rows of orang,
trees and Japanese medlars turning VI
| their dry leaves white with dust. AT nigh
| the scene changes as completely as on the
| Prado at Havana. Bands play, innumera-
| Bile gas jets twinkle amid the shrubbery
| the air is delightfully."- COOL and the blue
dome Of heaven hangs its lustrous star
lamp over all. The few noble families who
keep up ghostly show of Anticipated state
drive pompously to and fro. while plebian
jewellers swarm the promenade, or seated
at little tables sip horchates de chufa OF
duice de azahas-sweetmeats made OF
orange flowers and water, essentially Cor
dovese in character
Manners in the Ancient Town.
Much more beautiful is the shady Ala
media, with gardens on either side, where
the cool plash of water from innumerable
fountains mingles with the music, and the
air is heavy with the fragrance of orange
blossoms, oleanders. and roses. There is
also the tree-shaded Paseo de la Victoria,
extending to the distant railway station,
and the Ribera, along the river bank, COM
handing a fine view of the bridge. the
gypsy suburb. and the crumbling Alcazar.
BY the way, il was the aforementioned
Gran Captain" Gonsalvo. who originated
the saying SO common in Spain, that while
other cities may be better TO live in, Cor
dova is eminently the place in which TO be
born. Its narrow paths are SO roughly
paved that 10 walk in them is penance,
ard its house walls. whitewashed at least
once a year, dazzle the suffering eyes. Car
riages are not allowed to enter any of the
principal streets, and into most of them
wheeled vehicles could not possibly force
a way. AS twilight approaches men arc
seen clinging TO the iron ratings Of all the
lower balconies. holding whispered con-
versations with their sweetheaTts inside
the bars. This is the only recognized
method of courtship approved Of parents
and guardians since tine out of mind, and
for a Spaniard TO neglect his duty in this
respect would be TO brand himself lag
gard in love, unworthy the smiles Of any
senuTita
A century ago there were many rich and
populous monasteries in Cordova, but near
ly all them have been desecrated or turned
into schools and hospitals. Prominent
among the few that remain is Santa Marta.
OF the Jeronymites; the monastery of the
Padres de Garcia, near the barracks of AL
fonso H. and the Fuen Santa, just outside
the city walls. The once wealthy convent
of La Trinidad is now occupied by corps
of Remonta de Cordoba, or Government
horse trainers, whose business is TO break
the wild horses of the Sierra for the Span
ish cavalry. They wear short trousers,
turned up with red. and brown boots, laced
and open at the sides.
The provincial museum would hardly be
worth visit were il not for the Moorish
relics. Among the latter is a fine collec-
lection of spears, the brim of an Arabian
well in green pottery, inscribed with a
text from the Koran; and a bell of the
Ninth century, with a Mozarabic legend.
that hung in the tower of San Sebastian
the oldest convent in Spain.
A number of delightful excursions may
be made In the neighborhood of Cordova,on
foot in the saddle on en- cOche. Within
easy walking distance is the section known
as Alcazar Viejo Nuevo-just beyond the
city gate which Philip II. caused to be
erected on the ruins of the Moorish Babu-
l-Kanterah, Gate of the Bridge" The
Alcazar (royal palace proper was built
on the site Of Roderick's castle. the last
of the Goths, whose father Theofred was
a duke of Cordova. During Arab suprem-
acy. the archiepiscopai palace, stable ard