Daily inter mountain., 1900-03-03

! linen collar, tne necktleS nave changed
| from the lace rutiles to the many hued
affairs of the present day, while the
| hat has passed through an even greater
variety of evolutions. To-day. how
| ever, it can be said that the dress of
| the man is the most reasonable that has
ever been worn and that the tendency
of the time looks as much to comfort
and health as to attractiveness of de-
sign or gaudiness of color.
FEMININE CHANGES.
In feminine fashions there have been
just as many Kaleidoscope changes
during the past hundred years. The
last fifty years Of the eighteenth GEN.
| tury had been marked by extreme ar
Women ruCtrss wore ef narsa
| hair We're worn on the head to make
the coiffure appear extremely large.
In fact al kinds of artificialties were
resorted to to emphasize the points that
While women followed such fashions,
however, it is doubtful if they ever
fully approved Of hem, for they were
extremely glad to adopt the simple
vogue at about the beginning of the
present century. Then the gown fell
| in free folds from the shoulder and the
waist that had been so small ceased
to figure. If it was marked at all it
was by sash tied under the arm pits,
| The gowns were cut low in the neck
| and extremely short sleeves were worn.
| Out of doors the wearer was permitted
| the added protection Of shawl as we'll
| as gloves long enough to completely
| cover the bare arm.
In spite of its simple appearances this
| mode of dress was exceedingly expen-
| sive and could only be adopted by the
| wealthy. The masses still clung to the
homespun and the spinning wheel and
hand looms were in common use in all
parts Of the country. For the very rich
there were the imported English and
French goods for at this period all OF
the dress material. like all the fashions,
came from France. via England.
In 1905 the waist was heightened and
tight lacing came into vogue again.
That it had ever gone out of fashion
for a day is remarkable. for there was
nothing that troubled our great-grand-
mothers less than the laws of health.
| Flannels were never worn, thin Slip
pers and thinner hose were regarded as
the only proper attire for the feet. and
the fact that they lived in draughty
/ and il1-ventilated houses made no diff
ference in their mode of dress In fact.
as one examines the fashion plates OF
that period he is struck with amaze
ment that any of the followers of fem
their experiences. That they did live
speaks well for the hardness Of the
| race.
Since the beginning Of the present
century almost every six months has
seen a change in the fashions for wo-
| men, but it will be impossible, in single
l article. to refer to more than a few of
the most striking changes.
IN JOsHPHlNEs DAY.
Up to 1905 4the mode of dress remained
materially the same, and then the skirt
/ was shortened and the waist length
ened. In 1912 the narrow skirts were
richly embroidered around the hem and
a turban-lke headdress accompanied
the low bodice. This mode Of dress
continued, with slight notifications. up
to 1922, when the fashions underwent a
very marked change. Bodices were
more shapely, more pointed, and laced
at the back. and we take our cross
skirts widened and just touched the
ground.
In 1928 the low bodices were rendered
high by the use Of lace .pelerines and
med and bedizened with flowers made
| very picturesque effect. In 1880 the
side curls began to appear, and. at
| about the same time. the white muslin
be regarded as the forerunner Of our
modern blouse.
In 1887 the accession of the queen Of
England brought about another change
and youthful faces looked out charm-
ingly fro mbeneath the flaring brims
of .coal-scuttle bonnets. which were
worn with long narrow wells. The
method of dressing the head had also
changed, now being worn in smooth
bands parted down the center. some-
round the ears. Coronets of hair were
also worn, and elaborate plaits toward
the crown of the head.
The next important change was about
1853, when crinolines once more ap-
peared. This fashion was due to the
Empress Eugene. who sought to emu
late the hoops of Queen Elizabeth and
, the royal ladies who succeeded her In
.. this more modern effort, however, the
!. !. dignity and quietude of movement that
characterized the earlier days was al
most wholly lacking, and history. will
always Ibe compelled to regard this as
the ugliest period of this .century's
! dress.
t STORY OF CRINOL1NE.
t In spite of this the story of crinoline
e is an interesting one. 1t commenced
n with three graduated rows of common
a rope covered with linen and united by
e tapes and so progressed until those
. who wore the abonination looked as il
they were standing In barrel. Triple
n flounces, large muslin sleeves worI
4 under those of silk and wool, tunics and
d sashes were the accompanying features
g The bonnets worn were close-fitting
" and not only had cap under the brin
s but curtain and strings as well. Some
" Oh Tne younger people attempted C(
introduce a species of pork pie hat, bu
}. this innovation was considered in bai
/. taste.
le It was in 1860 that petticoats begar
= to assume an unwonted Importance ant
N the much-trimmed skirts of the periot
II were looped over brillinat woollen ones
g. It was not until the seventies tina
a basqued bodices appeared. and will
al them came variety Of tunics, for tn
reign of the hustle was upon us. A
3 this period bonnets were flat and loz
e. enge-shaped and 1t was at the close o
" TINS decade that we began hair fringes
ne Now that the nineteenth century i