The Topeka state journal., 1900-03-10

We're plated in a pigtail, in others the
ends were thrust into a black silk bag,
and the dandies of the period wore a
.'toupee" of curls raised high over the
forehead.
Another indication of Responsibility
at this time was the wearing of knick-
erbockers. AT the time of Washing
ton S inauguration as President this
form OF garment was SO common among
the gentry that Jefferson was charged
with being a 'demagOgue' because he
insisted upon wearing pantaloonS. The
costumes that were worn by men of
fashion at this time were often very
gaudy.
For ordinary wear, it is true. the
breecheS were usually of some snuff
colored cloth, but on state or other oc-
casions of ceremony the coat, waist
coat and knickerbockerS were all of gay
coiors. Ruffies of lace, lace frills and
gold and silver embroidery were also
worn and the linen was always of the
finest quality.
IN THE EARLY DAYS.
While the appearance of the gentry in
their gay garb could only be described
as a riot of color, the fashions that
were adopted by the masses were any
thing but attractive. They could not
afford the knickerbockers, and so wore
a pair of yellow buckSkin or leathern
breeches, set off by a shirt of some
sedate check, a jacket of flannel and a
felt cooked hat While the gentry wore
stockings of the finest material. in
many cOlorS, those worn by the masses
were such as could be knit at home.
The fashions that predominated in
America at this time were those that
had been imported from England, and
England still obtained her fashions
from France. The advent of the new
mode of dress, therefore, soon had it's
effect upon the people on this side of
the Atlantic.
Born as the result of the French revo-
1ntinT the dPmOpr1fiCi n ideas thar If fVnf-
fed struck a responsive chord in the
hearts of the citizens of the new Re-
public, so that by the time Jefferson
became President the knicEerbOcker of
colonial days had almost entirely dis
appeared. From that day dress ceased
to be the distinguishing mark of social
rank in the United States.
To trace the evolutions of mans $
dress from the beginning of the nine
teenth century to the present day
would be a tedious process The
changes have come by slow stages but
they have been almost continuous and
the effect has been seen in almost every
article of masculine attire.
In 1850 the stock gave place to the
linen collar, the neckties have changed
from the lace ruffies TO the many hued
affairs of the present day, while the
hat has passed through an even greater
variety of evolutions. To-day, how
ever, it can be said that the dress of
the man is the most reasonable that has
of the time looks as much to comfort
and health as to attractiveness of de-
sign or gaudiness of color.
FEMININE CHANGES.
In feminine fashions there have been
just as many Kaleidoscope changes
during the past hundred years. The
last fifty years of the eighteenth CEN
tury had been marked by extreme ar
tificiality Women wore enormous
hoops and large structures of horse
hair were worn on the head to make
the coiffure appear extremely large.
In fact all kinds OF artif1cialities were
resorted to to emphasize the points that
fashion had set apart as attractive.
While women followed such fashions,
| however, it is doubtful if they ever
fully approved of them. for they were
extremely glad to adopt the simple
semi classical attire that came into
! vogue at about the beginning of the
I present century. Then the gown fell
in free folds from the shoulder and the
waist that had been so small ceased
| to figure If it was marked at all il
was by a sash tied under the arm pits
| The gowns were cut low in the neck
and extremely short sleeves were worn
| Out of doors the wearerf was permitted
the added protection of shawl as vel