The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1900-11-03
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LATEST MODES
FROM FRANCE

PARIS, Oct. 4.-If the modern sheath
skirts show any trimming at all, II must
be In front. thus tabliers are a welcome
form Of trimming and the latest Paquin
models particularly favor them. They
admit of great variety In form and col
oring and material. and generally sim
ulate an underskirt, the front gore OF
which IL disclosed by an incision in the
over drapery. one charming model IL
Illustrated n modish arrangement OF the
tablier decoration. 1t has a foundation
OF silk of light brown taffeta made very
tight below the waist line and has the
conventional flare augmented by a deep
pieating of the same silk. The front
gore is covered with guipure lace thick
~ embroidered with gold thread, for the
gold note must not be excluded from
the fashionable toilette and is partIcu-
larry In evidence In this instance. The
overskirt Is of light brown cloth OF the
same shade as the silk and IL cut In
tell shape with a seam down the CEN
ter OF the back and follows closely the
contour OF the figure. while fiaring con-
siderably below the knees. In front the
overskirt opens with a narrow aperture
OF graceful lines constructed with
view to adding to the length and r.ar-
rowness Of the figure and showing the
guipure tablier underneath. A novelty
H. represented in the cross straps Of the
same cloth. which fasten over the tab
lier with buttons OF filigree gold
The bodice harmonlzes with the skirt
IL also has a tight lining OF brown silk
with a vest of gold embroidered gull
pure. At the back the brown cloth is
stretched without seam and Is dec
Grated with several tiny tucks which
run diagonally. meeting at the center
OF the back In q series of VS.. Over the
shoulders the cloth is likewise gathered
into small tucks, which are released
over the bust. forming a blouse-like
fullness on either side OF the guipure
vest and buttoning over II with the
same criss-cross straps that decorated
me skirt. A graceful feature is the
chic little jabot drapery OF cloth fall
ng over the waist line In front and
forming an appropriate finish. The
pointed yoke collar consists OF an upper
part OF brown cloth and an under piece
Of guipure mounted on brown silk. and
- surmeunted by the high stock collar
q silk lined guipure cut with a point
IN front. There Is no getting away
from the undersleeves In these days OF
right sleeves when the scarcity OF cloth
a. made up by the eiaborateness OF
trimming. The sleeve Of our model Is
of the most approved form. being tight
but having "A slightly fulled shoulder
gracefully gathered into the armhole
and allowing freedom OF motion. At
the wrist IN the inevitable undersleeve
OF tan mousseline de sole with its tight
iy buttoned narrow wristbands OF the
same fabric. A wide band Of gold en-
troidered guipure over blown SILK
forms the cuffs. the two ends OF which
are fastened together with gold fliIgree
buttons.
large picture hat OF tan felt COM
rletes the costume. and Is deliberately
trimmed with long amazon pIumes and
chou OF brown velvet held with a large
square buckle.
Some rather progressive toilettes in
dicate that furs will BE- pre-eminently
used as a trimming on rich costumes
and Is combined rather tncongruously
with diaphanous fabrics. An attract
I've costume for young lady is made
OF dark gray satin faced cloth and the
plainness Of the tight-fttlng bell skirt
Il relieved by heavy rolls OF black Per-
sian lambs fur adjusted In undulating
lines. a similar roll OF fur bands the
skirt at the hem and another edges the
tiny bolero. which extends below Geep
Joke OF shirred silver gray mou5seiine
d. sole. The cloth sleeves have should
.r pufrs OF the same mousscline de sole
finished with n roll Of fur and the wide
shaped stock collar consists Of rich
embroidery done with silver threads
silver beads and turquolses.
The sleeve form seems 20 be In a