The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1900-01-07
BEYOND THE RIO GRANDE
CALVIN FLETCHER's NOTES OF A
WINTER JOURNEY To MEXICO.
Scenes Witnessed on the Way and In
teresting Experiences i'm the Cap
itaI of the Republic.

fine concerts by the Mexican National
Band OF worlds fair fame: have gazed up
on the dress parade OF the bon ton OF this
city along the plaza; have almost held
my breath in traversing the wonders OF
Chepultepec: have resisted the attractions
of the GROWING bull fight OF the year. and
now that 1 rest and awakened conscience
whispers: Fulfill your promise to the
Journal-write a letter"
The snow OF Dec. IA at your city chilled
the zeal Of my departure. can still see
the frozen tears and red noses that left
behind. The depot and sheds at st. Louis
were a welcome TO an out-of-doors man.
/ took of my hat TO the fine hall over the
station and did not say word about the
grand view OF the Union Station at In
dianapolis. The moonlight upon the snow
made an ideal night for ST. Nicholas and
/ confess that the dreary outlook suggest
ed that the unknown landing place OF
Andre must be near. At Poplar Bluff snow
failed, but sleet-covered trees accompanied
us to White river. Scarcely an evidence
of enjoyable life was to be seen until Lit
tie Rock doomed up amidst beautiful piney
woods. Soon there was a relapse 10 that
degraded swamp and soil that no one can
into the foreground Of the landscape and
the cotton fields here and there gave evil
dence OF thrill. yet beside the same were
the billowy burrows Of former fields fast
being overgrown by forests OF pine-telling
Of the soils poverty. Texarkana shows
vigor. but a poor agricultural outlook
stared In my Hoosier eyes on all sides.
Night closed on no better prospect. The
next morning the chaparal growth around
San Antonio greeted me and ] received
consolation in the oft-repeated statement
that / had passed the heart OF Texas. in
GLIDING its arrogant capital in the night.
AT the ideal Spanish-American city met
Mr.. Frank Smith and family who had but
light task TO convince me that the exact
center OF the world was wrapped UP and
twisted and turned just there where the
San Antonio river sets wild the camera
fiend. The style, beauty and finish of the
north side in your city must rnodestly yield
the palm TO the castles Of the cattle kings
so plentiful hereabout. They and other
able men have judiciously utilized the re-
sources of the locality in lovely tinted lime
stone and beautiful colored bricks. The
tasteful combinations are very pleasing. An
hour spent at the post gives evidence of the
wisdom of our government in selecting this
salubrious site. The wrecked heroes OF
our Spanish and Philippine wars should be
here 10 recuperate. only add that. should
people in the Northern States desire a
speedy transit to more propitions cline.
look toward San Antonio rather than to the
pine woods of the South.
ACROSS THE BORDER
Texas ranches ane towns mark the way
to Eagle pass. where the Rio Grande de-
vides the two republics. The Mexican Gus
toms officers greet you with fairness and
desperate Spanish and give you a good
send-off TO wear your eyes out peering at
the thousands of picturesque groups of ma
tives that embarrass the entire railway line
to this city. OF the country, what shall
say? Well, there is plenty Of it 10 give the
world backyard full OF scenery. Climate
does wonders here for the LATEST, poorest.
dirtiest, greasiest. most ignorant people on
earth, and yet there is a concealed vertebra
of thrift in those little peep-holes up the
mountain sides whence the silver has con-
| tinued to flow into the channels OF business
| for hundreds of years.
A stop at Zacatecas would satisfy the
distinguished figurehead of the silver ba-
rons that plenty Of silver does not make q
people rich. The inextricable street sys-
| TEN OF Zacatecas is congested with the
poorest of humanity. The markets swarm
| with the hungry bartering OF finely split
| up vegetables. fruits and merchandise 90
suit limited ability TO pay. One redeeming
feature / recall of the city. which smacks
| Of energy. What is it? Nothing but the
rush of one line OF street cars that can't
| help but run away with its cars and pas
| sengers, because it Is down hill. But, alasf
the recoii is great when the slavish mules
| are dashed to foam In hauling you back
| up grade. There Is. however, great
compensation to those who make the trip.
| for wonderful Guadalupe Cathedral re-
/ wards the effort.
Leon has developed great manufacturing
in leather, and its $1,000 people are well
supplied from the rich plains that sur
round It. Silao. In the same fertile belt.
where land is worth 500 per acre. is where
the side trip TO Guanajuato is made.
Twenty miles up into the mountains the
engine slowly pulls you until steel and
steam fails man. Then the savior Of this
land brings relief Yes. Baalam's ass can
do greater service than talk; he can walk.
| anu rope, anu carry the merchandise IN
and the ore out OF this eyre OF the noun
| tains. and his relative, the mule. can draw
street cars OF Philadelphia make up UP.
UP. winding and crossing so that from a
| bird s-eye view the track resembles a
double hyphenated monogram OF the great
Sultan OF Turkey. The city seems 60 me
like beautiful Naples condensed into
tenth OF itself in size, retaining its ac-
centuated slopes and diminished villas.
churches. cathedrals. theaters and shops.
all OF which show thrift beyond any place T.
have seen. The noted Pantheon / visited,
| of course. and I consider the plan %
sepulcher far IN advance OF ancient Egypt.
| while the specimens OF mummies are
equally repugnant. Please cremate me
rather than preserve me for tourists TO
| gaze upon after life Is extinct.
IN THE MEXICAN CAPITAL.
Again upon the main road. the tables en-
route are graced with the finest strawber-
ries, OF such flavor I have not met in
southern climes. A bright morning shows
the outlying gardens now grazing the
former wet lands in the suburbs OF this
capital OF Mexico. and in a few moments
we feel that the grip Of the native is upon
us-not 20 be released until we turn again
toward home One day spent I'm hopeless
search for the way to accomplish two
hours business next day is only endurable