New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1900-04-08
PARTISAN TAILOR GOWNS
MARKED CHANGES ARE PREDICTED FOR
COSTUMES OF THIS ORDER
VARIED STYLES IN JAUNTY wAIsTcoATs-NEw
FORMS FOR THE BOLERo-MATERIAIS
FOR SPRING.
Paris, March 50.


The models for spring tailor made costumes are
really novel In spite of the fact generally admitted
that from to another there are few
marked changes in this style of gown and that
among the tailors the modes change with far less
rapidly than they do among the dressmakers
This season may be a exception. or 1t may be
true as is often stated, that the taiors have de-
termined to rival the dressmakers in a way that
may prove highly Instantaneous TO the affairs
of The taors' purpose is that all street
costumes shall bear the tailor made" hall mark
and that their customers shall purchase not one
tailor made costume a season, but half a dozen
this IL is certainly necessary that they shall
vie with the couturieres in point of originality
Yet in describing the latest examples of the skill
of Paris tailoring houses the marked changes are
not SO obvious IT is still the skirt and bolero. with
the addition of waistcoast vest. These gar
ments are not In themselves startlingly original
but they have been universally worn as
they promise be this year 1t is safe TO as
sumo that nine of ten Jacket suits include
waistcoats fashionable idea is to have the
waistcoat match the collar Of the Jacket, or an
undercollar some trimming on the collar Some
examples of this will be described later on. Waist
coats are singlebreasted. and may be high or low
as individual fancy dictates. They are completed
by chemisette and fancy seravat that shows no
linen collar. I~TC-
The boIero appears In number Of new forms.
On the sides 1t is close and short; in front II gen
orally drops below the waist line in the form Of
IN the back an attempt at coattails The novel
and conspicuous feature of the jackets of this sea-
son the trimming that emphasizes the bias
seams This may be stitching stitched bands
OF some form OF braiding but whatever form II
may take it gives the proper stamp to the cos
tune. Sleeves are, of course. close. but still
raised a trife. As rule they trimmed only by
stitching. Sometimes there is a line Of an inner
cuff TO be to match the second collar-that
is another feature of the new Jackets.
STYLES IN SKIRTS.
In regard to skirts there is diversity Of
opinion The habit skirt has entirely gone out;
the skirt with the Vatican pleat behind possesses
only waning popularity, and the same is partly
true OF the ''bonne femme skirt. However. there
are many examples of the pleated skirt that
In high favor and that have been evolved from the
"bonne femme" skirt so popular this winter. A IA
vorfte model with the best taiors has in the back
box pleat, reversed or turned in This gives the
idea of a fanshaped fulness behind that is al
ways becoming. Several prominent tailors and
dressmakers say that this is the best model for all
heavy goods. Others arrange the fulness in diff
ferent way but that gives much the same
effect.
The several points that differentiate the light
weight cloth and wool suits Of this from those
of the last season are easily in the following
gowns: Satin cloth IN old blue is stitched with
silk Of a lighter color The skirt is made with the
fanlike back just described and trimmed about
tha bottom with heavy stitching in the way OF
po,nts The Jacket is cut with two sharp points on
each side in front and is heavily stitched down
the bias seams. The turnover collar is edged with
q fine pleating of white silk. striped with black,
and bias folds of this silk appear under the open
sides of the jacket in the form Of an open vest
The same cloth In old makes skirt that
has clusters of pleats the sides. These pleats
are stitched to the of the skirt. On the sides
of the Jacket are folds Of cloth stitched in the
same way. white silk. brocaded with small black
figures makes revers TO the jacket and also vest
that is closed with small jet buttons.
The prominent feature gown OF light gray
is the stitched pieces cut in curves that or
nament the sides of the jacket. This bolero has
short square revers and high turnover collar of
white silk and slopes away behind to make tiny
curved coattails. The inner vest Of white silk
closes with small gold buttons The cravat is
ternely pretty. 1t is scarf Of yellow lace. wound
twice about and tied with knot and straight
ends: about this choker is a narrow band of black
velvet which makes little bow in the lace knot.
Here are three novel examples of the closed
bolero One is made Of shingles that run up in
front and button with clusters of small but
tons Another has stitched pieces that also mount
tn front This Jacket only the point where
the revers begin and shows below the single button
long vest Of fancy brocade. The third is a double
breasted bolero with loose front In place of