The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1900-06-10

of Romans. Goths. Saracens and Chris
tians. who have in turn reigned in these
lordly towers and left mementos of their
occupation. Before coming TO Spain you
read much OF the wonders OF Toledo. and
perhaps agreed with the writer's that the
old city ought still to be. as formerly, the
capital of the country. Once on the spot
you find its objects of interest more nu-
merous and wonderful than imagination
had pictured; but at the same time you
probably decide in mind that a place
inaccessible, so medieval, so hopelessly
out of touch with the life and spirit of
the age is not fitted for nineteenth CEN
fury seat Of government, even in slow
going Spain. Everything shows the ex-
treme age of the city and the impression
IL creates of sadness and solemnity intensi-
fies as time goes on. Never was town more
beautifully situated than this crown of
SPAIN" upon its granite peaks, eighteen
hundred feet above the encircling Tagus-
the tawny river, that bursts like a wild
thing through the nearby mountain gorge
and foams at its feet. Some unknown writ
er says: Toledo has the color, the rough
ness. the naughty poverty of the Sierra
noisy affair. yielding to the commodities
of life-than a significant spot for the soul.
Secret and inhexibIe, with it's vast cathed-
raj springing skyward, it's alcazars and
palaces with their hidden, mysterious
patios, it appears in this harsh, over-heated
land, like an image of exaltation in soil
tude-a city in the desert"
BEAUTIFUL ARCHITECTURE
Tourists come TO gaze upon the dead city
as they visit the sphinx, antiquarians prowl
among its ancient monuments and shrines,
poets and painters find here rich material
for their art. and the builder suggestions
for his modern designs. Though there is
so much to attest it's former glory. you
feel that infinitely more has vanished under
the hand of the spoiler-that nothing ever
was or ever could have been young in this
skeleton city. where the voice of Goth
echoes amid Roman ruins and the steps of
the Christians tread on the heels of the
Moor" The place abounds with noble ex-
amples of Saracen architecture, for the
reason that few of its ruins have been ''re-
stored'-heaven save the mark!-or dis
figured by whitewash. Turn where you WILL
the eye is delighted by ornate facades,
carved gateways. quaint windows with bal
comics and crossbars. soft-tinted azuelos
and the horseshoe arch with its beautiful
curve; and upon all is the mellow hue of a
withered pomegranate. Time was when To-
ledos Ill churches. including the magnif-
cent cathedral, were crowded with wor-
shippers; now only sixty are used. the rest
being mostly in ruin. Out of thirty-four
hospitals only two remain, and the former
population of more than 100000 has dwindled
TO less than 10000. But the poor old place
is eminently fitted for it's present role-a
depository of departed grandeur, a hiding
place for impoverished mobiles and broken
down gentility-and also for a mandatory
of that Renaissance of past ages, the ITO
ledo blade
A SWORD FACTORY.
One of the first things that most tour
lists do is to visit the celebrated "Fabrica
dArmas," which for centuries turned out
swords as strong and flexible as those OF
Damascus. 1t stands on the right bank of
the Tagus, about mile northwest Of the
city. The present huge rectangular. I'M
slightly building was erected for Charles
III, in 17SS, and is we'll provided with
FORCES and all accessories, including
chapel for the pious laborers, dedicated TO
Santa Barbara, the patroness of cannons.
All the armas blancas for SPANS soldiers
are made here, but most Of the swords
now manufactured have neither the tenn
per nor the beauty OF the antique speci-
mems displayed in the museum. Some of
them have notices enameled in gold upon
the blades. such as "Soldadoes valientes del
Rey,'' I'm defense of my lady, do not
draw me without reason, nor sheathe me
without honor" Time was when the choic-
est Toledo blades were so elastic that they
were packed in boxes for shipment curled
up like the handspring of a watch, or, as
Falstaff says. Composed like a good
Bilboa, in the circumference of a peck, hilt
a point heel to head"
II you desire to secure blade" or even
the tiniest sword hairpin or paper cutter,
or souvenir of Toledo, on no account pur-
chase 1t outside of the factory; and even
there you must pay very high price for
1t. There is large. well-lit and excel
Iently arranged show room in the building.
open every day from 9 a. m. to p m,
with civil attendants who speak a little
French, English and German, besides their
n3tlVe spanish. SWORDS, OdSBeTS, lUldlQ pa
per knives, scissors and all kinds of fancy
cutlery are displayed in cases. the price
OF each article distinctly marked in pesetas
and centavos. Every blade bears the word
Artileria, Toledo. Fabica de Toledo. with
the date. Those merely stamped with the
word Toledo have not been made in the
government factory, and are largely sold
in the city. Among the most beautiful
::ecuerdos'' are steel deggers for the hair,
beautifully incrusted with arabesque de-
signs in gold and silver.
At one time the mandatory of artistic
silk at Toledo for church vestments con-
stituted one of the greatest industries of
Spain. Only one of these is now in OPP
Grafton, established about century ago.
Its silks woven with gold very fine
The only other special industry of the city
is the manufacture of licorice, in large
amounts, for export to America.
FANNIE b. WARD.
What She Wanted.
Roltfr,ora American