The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1900-11-17
THE FASHIONS
OF NEW YORK

nothing new, that the dressmakers are
at their wits end for fresh ideas, the
modistes without inspiration. Perhaps
the hot Partisan summer, maybe the
exposition, is to blame, but whatever
is the cause, chaos reigns in the realms
of the mode. We have no system, no
patterns to guide us any longer in our
choice of hats or our selection OF
gowns. Wear what you please, for
what you please is as good fashion as
anything else, says the cloakmaker,
tailor, furrier, cotouriere and milliner.
Wear green or brown, or yellow; cut
your skirt with a train or without,
gather and pleat 1t at the waist, or let
IL fit the hips as close as the bark fits
a tree; hang directoire tails to your
coat and waist, or chop off both right
under the arms-confusion prevails and
bad taste Is given.
The sight of the show windows and
counters piled with new laces and bro
cades is cause for tears. The worst
colors are cast together in the most
ungraceful and Inappropriate designs.
One gorgeous robins egg blue satin
bears huge bouquets of mistletoe, bro
cade in gold thread, while nobby-look-
ing little nosegays of reddish purple
violets are tossed here and there on
Is figured over in a design that resem-
bles an endless chain of mountain peaks,
on which snowfiakes as big and as
round as quinine pills are falling.
The prospect Is no more pleasing at
the counter where lace robes are dis
played, for into the mesh of the lace
large, irregularly shaped pieces of
painted panne or silk muslin are let.
Not satisfied with so much decoration,
the ill-advised manufacturers introduce
on the surface of the panne or muslin
squares ridiculous roses and tulips and
lilies and clusters of wistaria made of
pulled tulle of variety of contrasted
tints. These tulle flowers, that resem-
bic nothing so much as raw, colored
merangue. have stalks and leaves of
gold braid, and three or four inches of
tinsel tissue glitter at the foot of the
lace robe.
REALLY PRETTY FROCKS.
1t Is childish and garish in appear
ance, 50 much so, indeed, that 1t is a
positive relief to turn to the conserva-
tive gowns of simple goods, which.
while showing no startling features.
display both grace and taste. Such a
gown, or gowns, rather, are the group
of two evening frocks In the double
column sketch. These are especially
designed for the fresh and youthful
element I'm society. for the buds after
TO the left is moss rose pink taffeta
brilliante.
The body Is quantity shirred all
about. and the threads of the shir-
ring are obscured by bands of baby
velvet ribbon. in color a green, that
matches very fresh spring woodland
moss. The shirrings and the stripings
of green velvet ribbon continue down
upon the skirt to form a long, pointed
apron effect. The edges of this apron
are afiutter with chiffon frills of opa-
descent hue. changing through pink &c
white and tender green. A deep fril
OF the chiffon borders the skirt al
around.
Not a bit less pleasing in the COM
panion gown OF pale yellow Picking
crepe. decked with narrow bands OF
mink's fur. A buckle of filagree gilt
and pale blue sapphires holds points
of the short Zouave jackets together
over the bust. and below the furred
edges Of the zouaves falls vest OF
pale blue liberty tissue. spotted yellow
A blue silk dancing petticoat Is worn
under the skirt Of yellow crepe.
SMART AND 'SIMPLE GOWNS.
Hardly a word of anything but praise
should accompany the two discreet
walking gowns that illustrate the best
type OF outdoor suit now being made
Tor adults and Juveniles The Young
girls dress is a why haired tweed in
warm shade Of red. and stroked ir-
regularly with fine, close set black
lines. "A band of solid red ladies' cloth
borders the skirt, collar and yoke of
waist and forms the belt, and this Is
sensibly toned down by applications OF
narrow black soutache
The costume for the older woman Is
Wotau blue homespun of delightfully."-
soft quality, the coat and skirt edged
with smooth, lighter cloth and braided
In black. while the lower half of the
Dody and top of the skirt is arranged
edges.
Some very interesting striped cash.
meres nave been brought out this sea.
son. Inc stripes run the length of tbs
goods. are half an inch wide and alter.
nate in black and white. tabac brown
and yellow. red and black. etc The,
are extensively used in the makeun n
smart house skirts, the tops of whicl
have the lighter stripes tucked out
This leaves the lower half of such ,
skirt very full and the stripes con
spicuous. A fancy shirt waist and .
narrow, flexible gold belt complete
quite an ideal morning dress.
LEATHER AND TwILLED RIBBor
BELTS.
Apropos of belts. we are In DANCE
of doing the flexible gold ribbon t
satin girdles braided in gold are ais
pretty, but rapidly fastening to de
struction through too great popularity
l A group OF really smart belts accom-
panies the text, and shows how leatfe
and twilled ribbon are most TASTEFUL
used. The belt Of black satin sprinkle
with tiny steel beads and clasped Il
front by a handsome strass buckle /
carefully shaped to fit the waist, as
collar band Is cut and skillfully ad
tusted to the neck. This is a Frenc
invention.
The leather girdle Is a straight stra
OF white calls hide, with the fine
bIeached hair clinging to the skin. Thi
plant hide Is taken from the body O
n stillborn calf, and is the only sor
OF white belt that does not soil, sine
the fine. close-lying hair accepts littl
grease or dust. and that which II doe
take can easily be wiped of with
cloth.
The third strap Is of white silk
diagonally striped with a black velve
line, and, clasped with a gold disl
buckle on white, three eaglets are out
lined In brilliants- Nearly all the goo,
"