The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1900-10-21

but tha real vest Of bright royal blue
was shirred into yoke of lace The
skirt was long and was draped with
flounce of lace, abote which was nat
applique Of lace studded with Jewels
In all the fine gowns that are being
shown in Paris now there Is note of
comfort for they are so easily copied in
inexpensive goods. On the Rue de la PaiN
there lives an American girl whose entire
livelihood IS earned in the designing or
inexpensive gowns to take the place OF
the more expensive Paris models. One of
these young women makes O speciality of
the selection of soft. fine cloths, which
she substitutes for satins. All the ex-
duisite models that cost fortune to de-
sign and carry out are copied by her deft
fingers in cheaper goods When completed
you can scarcely tell the substitute gowns
from the originals II the work be carried
out we'll.
Imitation lace Is substituted for the fash
lonabie Point de Paris, yalenciennes.
Bruges and Chantilly, and the cheapest
lace takes the place OF the more expensive
Russian laces, In taffeta and silks OF all
kinds she is specially fortunate. for she
can use a silk for q few cents yard TO
take the place of that which costs high
prices. 1t is easy to accomplish the APP
pliques, and even the brocaded effects. IL
you are willing to use your handiwork.
New Materials.
This is the season when new materials
are declared Until October they are held
wen in the background. but come forth
with the first cold wave. Cachmire dale
mango is one of the fabrics that VIII grow
more popular as the season advances II
"a like cashmere, but Is an Improvement
upon H. II is so smooth and SO highly
finished that 1t is impossible to tell 1t
from the more expensive cloths.
he faS a
newest of everything, has gown In
cachmire d'Allemange. 1t Is In the new
London red which is called position red.
The skirt has a flare around the foot. ac-
complished by the introduction OF fsn-like
ruffes at frequent intervals. Instead or
plain fans there are bias ruf1es of cloth.
much newer than the conventional fan
plating. 4.
Astrakhan cloth Is the newest conner
into the ranks OF rough goods. 1t is about
the weight OF camels hair and has long
silk threads hanging from the surface.
lovely piece In eminence RED had long
silver hair-iike threads hanging from II
and was very pretty. This new astrakhan
was ordered as the material for gown
TO be fashioned for the Princess Victoria
OF England. Undoubtedly both her sisters,
the Princess Carl and the Duchess OF Fife.
will have gowns Of the same piece. for
the daughters Of the Prince of Wales In
sist upon dressing alike. though two OF
them are married.
Among the new gowns was one in
mauve satin-faced goods. trimmed with
golden brown panne and Russian lace
Ii was very odd and very beautiful.
Trlcot cloth is handsome French
cloth. II IL iustrous and very much like
tricot but more elegant. Then there Is a
satin tricot which Is very new.
Three-Toned silk.
In the list OF handsome fabrics Of the
season may be mentioned cameieon faille.
which Is for fancy waists exclusively. 1t
comes in several tones, the prettiest
pieces showing three shades. II has a
wonderful gloss. A delightful combina-
ton is in pals violet. green and gold. This
Is much used for fancy waists and Ia
specially ornamental trimmed with the
handsomest OF gold tissue.
This season you can obtain broche or
Persian effects in satin or the heavier
silks where formerly you could only get
them In foulards and pannes. The heavi-
est and most elegant silks are turned out
In these marvellous Persian tones.
Tunic cloth Is a material that deserves
A higher place In the social scale, 1t is
variety OF flannel, rather expensive but
very handsome. II is used for shirt
waists instead OF flannel. which has never
caught on very well with the French
women. silk stripes run through II. For
lighter weight waists there Is A material
called vailing 1t is recommended for
gowns for debutantes. II closely re-
semhles lansdown and Is n cross between
surah and the finest weave Of alpaca. II
combines the luster OF the satin with the
durability OF the alpaca,
In these materials the modistes are
fashioning some of the most exquisite
gowns that have ever been turned out Of
the Paris shops Fabulously expensive
~f 9TH nttffa nd.
crate when YOU consider the durability OF
the materials and the number used in
the making Of one gown, silk. lace cloth
and chiffon being all combined
Paris. slow TO follow it's own lead along
the lines OF gold trimmings. has taken
them up again. In the early spring there
were a few belts and some gold buttons:
now everything has it's gold trimming
some Of tho handsoEnest gowns are hand
"a with gold tissue. and upon the gold
tissue there are beautiful mock gems
sewed ct frequent intervals, Gold but
tons. some Of them exauisitsiy filsgreed.
are used as trimmings. and instead OF q
rasette you see a button 10 sold where
the rosette used TO be. Panels OF them
are used down the side OF the skirt. Jokes
with the entire surface covered with butt
tons are seen in all the lighter shades Of
cloth.
II is a season Of iaces, fire and of tho
popular lace for narrow trimmings, such
as achus and rr.fies. but In the piece i&css
there are varieties 3nst ~ nne yet more
decided. Iierre lace - much wsrn, 40 also
are Cluny and Chantiily- All The Russian
laees are IN style. and a magnificent shew-
ing they make with their raised patterns.
Underneath these fine lacus there Is sewn
very light WEIGHT gold tissue which
CLEANS prvitfIy through Ia she hand
soonest gowns there may he nentioned
one that was made % rose Pink tafysta
overiasd with cream chiffon. Beautiful
ApKiiqnes OF lace were placed upon the
front hrendth Of the chiffon skirt. and
upoa the waist 80 ~ 20 form vest Gn-
aerneath the lace Was a Gne gold ttRs9e.
TArlstan makes very good suhsttass
for chiffon. and particularly for The Rev
grades u thls material There i chit
fon that IL new with Ne season. Il is
called chyssaGiKea ehifon, u j. fine and
silky but l. slightly erisgy Ike tafietsu.
Fmhrnideries are freely used upon ia@se
naa4