The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1900-10-28
BLACKLISTEb VIANDS
VIGOROUS DEFENSE or THE w
FASHIONABLE ONION.
Objections TO IL Largely an Anecta-
tfon-Cerrectivcs for Its odors
-TriDe and EeIs.


failed TO notice that the mere mention OF
certain dishes. not 10 say their actual pres
ence on the bill of fare. causes an uplifting
of eyebrows and fitting of noses. II has
become a sort Of clearinghouse fashion
I'm fact TO declare these blacklisted foods
as being 1T only for degenerate and I'M
refined appetites and the person daring
enough 10 raise a voice in defense OF any
one of them is looked uTon as belonging
low in the social scale
No amount OF epicurean backing from
sala, Du Maurier and Thackeray. who were
excellent cooks as well men of letters,
will ever lift the onion from the position
It occupies as king OF the despised foods
The prejudice that exists against the onion
Is stronger even than it's own fragrance,
and ii is rigidly excluded from mention IN
fashionable bills Of fare. although IL Is
rarely omitted from the preparation OF
certain popular soups, sauces and dress
ings although it is not made prominent as
one Of the ingredients.
1t is not so in boarding houses. where the
chronic female boarder. who feels that she
has a position to sustain. has trained her
nose TO swift detection Of the vegetable
and delights to declare her discovery aloud.
thus proclaiming herself to be Of fine and
aristocratic tastes. Therefore, in nine out
OF ten Of the so-called fashionable boarding
houses the onion is practically prohibited
and this contributes. much to the lack or
taste in the food that predominates at the
tables OF the establishments.
The wonderfully healthful Qualities OF
the onion are generally admitted, even by
its enemies. Many old-fashioned home
made remedies for all known Ills contained
some portion OF the vegetable.
Elsewhere the onion has been raised from
it's degradation by epicurean authorities,
and its good qualities are fully recognized
in the preparation of certain dishes. In
fact. these very authorities nave generaily
placed the entire list of despised FOODS
among the first in the list or edible DAM
ties. The two recipe books complied by
the late Charles Ranhofer, or Delmonicos s,
and by Oscar. the present maitre d hotel
OF the Waldorf, give dozens OF methods
for cooking the onion, as well as for serv-
ing II raw in salads, and there are few OF
the best sauces and other made dishes that
do not include the deSpised vegetable
among their necessary factors.
Certain OF the more progressive chop
houses serve the onion at It's best seasons,
the spring onion. the Bermuda and the
Spanish, but this has not raised the vege-
table to any special favor, as few Will be
found daring enough TO brave public opin-
ion and partake Of the onion publicly. and
when in company rarely without an apol-
ogy, one that rule is received with
little grace by others who are noneaters
the innocent onion as an objectionable sin
against good taste.
WHOLESOME FOOD.
The prejudice against the onion is at
first. OF course, based upon its strong and
lasting odors which, 1t is said by onion
haters, permeate the atmosphere breathed
by the onion eater. The odor of the onion
Is one of those things that 1t is useless to
deny. But there are various other foods.
disagreeable strength that are never
commented upon and are IN constant use.
The cloves and spices used by the man
Who goes out between the acts and re-
earded by many as more Objectionable than
the original evil are quite effective an
antidote for the use OF every species of
the use of alcoholic beverages will never
become as deep seated as that against the
onion
The French, a people OF good cooks, es-
TEEN the onion. and no chef considers
sauce perfect without some touch of its
flavor. The German vastly appreciates the
onion. especially in the form or chives,
which he adds to his soups we add
powdered parsley, as finishing touch.
Many Of the German restaurants in New
York serve the onion in various appetizing
ways. and one popular place is famous for
its fresh pot cheese with caraway seeds
and chives as an accompaniment.
The Italian. of course, makes favorite
bean is to the Boston man; but while the
odor OF garlic is much stronger than that
of the onion its antidotes are as many and
are quite as effective as those of its big
brother. the onion. The most perfect salad
dressings are compounded with the aid of
Glove of garlic rubbed upon the inside of
the bowl or of the wooden spoon with
which the salad is mixed.
The ordinary black coffee and cheese that
follow dinner are entirely sufficient cor
receive for any possible trace of the onion.
lemon and orange peel, often served with
nuts and fruit, are also effective for those
who consider the onion impossible. The
grand opera artists whose names are most
familiar TO the public as the stars at the
metropolitan are all stanch upholders of
the onion, serving il at their own dinner
tables and employing these after-dinner
bon bonS and fruits as an accompaniment.
AS the American Nation rises in matters
OF the cuisine the prejudice against the
onion and against other of the black-listee
foods will grow less, while the inveterate
garlic fend and the careless onion eater
will always be Objectionable.
The late Thomas Murrey. so long famous
as restaurateur, was one of the defenders
of the onion He said that the generally
expressed American adherence for the
vegetable was an affectation and that many
OF the most pronounced dissenters were
''often seen reveling in sauces fairly reek-
ing With the flavor of the odoriferous bulb
and its cousins"
TO PREPARE ONIONS.
The young green onions which are in
market In the spring are now to be hal
from the hothouses and are capable of
preparation i'm numerous appetizing ways
and. being especially delicate in flavor when
very young. they viii. perhaps, be most
appreciated by the anti-onion eater who
wishes 10 overcome his prejudice. They
must first be carefully washed in salt
water, the roots and tops trimmed and
then the onions tied again in small punches
These must b. put over the fire in boil
ing salted water and cooked for ten
minutes. This time allowance is for the
very young ones: longer time must
be allowed III proportion They are then
drained and placed on dry toast with melt
ed butter and pepper and are served hot
The Spanish onion, which is now in sea-
son. seems TO be the established favorite for
both cooking and for Salads although the
young bermuda Is also delicious In glavor
and specially adapted for the salad. The
Spanish onion scalloped is excellent when
cooked after this recipe, which Is one OF
the late Juliet CorSons: Peel two pounds
OF Spanish onions; put them over the fire
I'm sufficient boiling water TO cover them,
with teaSpoonful of salt. and boil them
until tender Meantime crate an equal
quantity of bread crumbs and just moisten
them with cold milk. When the onions
are tender pull them apart with two forks