The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1900-01-28

REFORE spring styles are fairly
IN launched the shops annually are
flooded with novelties designed to
,,rehabilitate much used gowns. Never
before in the history of dressmaking
has greater latitude been allowed in
this respect than at the present mo-
ment, when boleros. fichus and handker-
| chief draperies serve the twofoId pur-
pose of paying tribute at fashions
| shrine and masking the defects of the
erstwhile beauteous bodice
! The real novelty of the season is the
handkerchief drapery. A square of silk
not exceeding 20 inches, fringed around
| the edge and woven in many designs,
may be converted into a pretty and
simple device which entirely transforms
an old bodice. Some of the kerchiefs
are striped, while others are patterned
IN all over floral designs. There is just
material enough in each square and
none to waste, each of the four points
perfecting the unique decorative ar
rangement, which is sufficiently simple
TO be copied by the most inexperienced
amateur dressmaker.
Take the silk square and fit it to the
bodice at back, letting one point reach
the waist line; fold back the opposite
corner to form a sort of rolling collar
and cut armhOles to correspond with
those of the bodice, thereby bringing
the two ends over the bust. Clip the
two corners from these and put, epaulet
fashion, over the shoulders. This ef-
fectively carries out the vandyke
scheme of a handkerchief bolero. Per
sian Grape handkerchiefs are used for
similar decorative purposes, forming
fichus brought low on the shoulders and
knotted on the left one.
In Paris the black satin tie is worn
with many of the very smartest frocks
or coats out of doors, and, though, as
a rule, black close to the throat is a dar-
ing choice, it is a relief to see some
thing less universally selected than
closely tucked velvet or satin vest and
collar and the inevitable row of pearls
that accompanies such a garniture.
Feather boas appear to have flown
away, and the throat is much less muf-
fled than it was, owing to the desire of
every smart woman to display grace
fully dropping outline OF shoulder. For
the same excellent purpose hugely high
storm collars are far less dominant
than they were. Neatly overturned
ones are mounted on the newest coats,
and in the matter of cravats TO accom-
pany them. besides the black kind. any
amount of ingenuity is possible. The
prettiest, Perhaps, are made of softly
tinted pearl gray or damask rose crepe
de chine and worn as Miss Vanbrugh's
photo declares she wears her blue scarf
in The Gay Lord Quex," but with lon
ger ends, fringed. of course, and knot
ted at one side of the waist like a mill
itary sash.
There are surprises every day for
those who are willing to be astounded |
and like trying something fresh, and |
the skirt is always assailed. Still l do /
not think it probable that the house |
maid pattern will flourish much, though |
to so many people winter makes no diff |
ference in their choice of fabrics, and
they will order the thinnest ones for |
afternoon house gowns. even should /
snow be falling. 1t will, however, be /
the accepted novelty for the general |
public next summer and is lovely for /
muslins; but it is the possession eff the
exclusive during winter and spring. I
Panne velours, the fine cashmeres and
peau de sole arrange themselves excel
lently in tiny gathers round the waist.
but they are only available for the