Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-01-27

| bottle of Graves Ordinary white Bordeaux.
| So cents; one bottle of Beaune good Bur
| gundy), $40; croute-au-pot soup (only the
best bouillon can make this soup distin-
guished. but then it Is so comforting), 60
cents: sole la Russo (really sauce Nor
mande brought up to date, S160; duekling
| (delicately accented with a PURGE of young
| turnips and cream), 81: asparagus, muslin
sauce. $40: glace gaufre (best call it an
ice cream tart, the Japanese trick of serv-
ing ice cream in thin, fiaky. crisp. warm pie
crusO. 81: coffee, 30 cents: liquors, GO
cents: tip % per cent of the bill, more or
less). GO cents: total. trifle over S12. Oh,
yes: it cost too much, but the memory of it
will linger-
A Fair Sort of q Lunch.
As for lunch at Durand s-Durand' is a
livelier establishment than either of the
others. but still of the extremely serious
drst-class. 1t is always on the principle of
ordering. one portion for two persons Nap
ains and cloth, II cents: one bottle of Bar
sac IA more aromatic, sweeter white Bor-
1eaux than Graves, 50 cents; butter, IS
cents; pink shrimps (more decorative than
-iiiihs' 10 cents; eggs aux morilles 0he mo-
riIle being species of mushroom, the eggs
scrambled and the dish maryelously deli
cate. though rich. 80 cents: young pullet
lux fonds dartichauts $3.50; strawberry
-a.ai - cents; coffee, ~ cents; tip. ~ cents:
totai. 80. The pullet was tender as a pulet
ought to be. 1t had been cut up while raw
men Sauteed in an earthenware pot. Half of
ne success of French cookery lies in the
Use OF earthenware and copper utensils.
Inc articnoke hearts We're covered with the
gravy of the chicken. Some remarks ought
% be made about the eggs. Durand has al
HayS rad excellent egg cooks, and some of
-heSe Paris egg dishes are Well worth try
ing. There are scrambled eggs aux Gre
EetteS. the shrimps being served in the
center. and eggs en- cocotte au jus, which
only the best beef juice can make good q
call ppfnS hrDlIfllaS Ia5''
of better word only. because there is
nothing of the helter-skelter scramble about
1hem) The Durand strawberry tart is an
ether thing to dream of-good medium
sized Strawberries cut in half lust before
wanted. moistened in little sirup and
SIMPLY warmed in fiaky crust before being
served Such tarts are refreshing.
Solemn Nonsense.
These are serious restaurants, without
thdrlG tanism-that is to say the appeal to
wonder and adulira ton by the springing of
ky-hlue sauces and Nile-green Iellies $50
ileasins to those who are just learning to
inc welD IS not conspicuous. Still there
i no reason one should not go to Josephs,
i'aillard's or the TOR d'Argent and get
taore than his moneys worth in highly up
to-Gate novelties. The head walters are
tumetiians. See them cut butter from the
IonderoUs block. The Vanderblted one
compounds a sauce with all the gravity of
Ut. Faustus calling UP Sathanas-and,
i-eanwhi.e, lets his woodcock cool before
Your hungry eyes. 1t is true that the one
and only Joseph has left Paris for the Rus
sian capital, but there is leading man at
tie Tour Argent who can give him cards
md spades for solemn foolery.
Delightful Monstrosities.
There are those who delight to breakfast
1T the Tour d'Argent on lobster Winter
thur. which-like Joserh's lobster Lord Ran
Golph-is best adapted to the stomachs of
rize fighters fresh from training. No man
can digest these delightful monstrosities
rve nights week. Indeed. the Tour q Ar
cent is restaurant apart. Surprise. ad-
Iliratiun and holy awe are always in its
atmosphere, while the believing Americans
and English confirm their mutual faith by
mutual competition at the shrine Here
'F'rederics'' stronghold is to create" new
fishes continually. which he as continually
names after his best customers, SO that we
have had Il DO not say have) the vol-au-
Macarthur, poulet au DR.. Pendergast, eggs
Hath!rurne, fruits Sir Henry Layard and
-haud-froid of chicken Helen Henniker:
i;ut ba careful to continue heing a good
customer for the vol-au-vent StanhOpe,
after q slight vol in the vent. bobbed up
Sereuly yol-aG-vent Jack Frost TO my GER
tain knowledge. just as the filet Barlow be-
c2mt known as the hlet Stoddard.
Gastronomic Fireworks.
Frederic undoubtedly is a double-distilled
sastronomic expert, but to the nervous
here is something almost disquieting about
his fireworks. Paiilard's, the restaurant
# the Cafe de la Paix, Durand's, the Cafe
lie Paris and Lucas are all, more or less.
On the same up-to-date track, with gay
''speciaties," of which the good old Rouen
duck, christened with az many different
surnames as there are establishments, is
good sample. Fer II makes the appetite
come to see the fine bird jollled about under
your eyes, with all the theatrical effects.
The Rouen duckling''-I quote a solemn
,picure-'-is a young (female) duck that has
never laid an egg 1t is strangled, as to
prevent a single drop of blood leaving its
body. 1t is baked until it is at It's ju!ciest
point. in a porcelain pot forget what II
is baked with-and then brought to me to
look at Then the master takes 1t away
from me- jumps it a chaflng dish, slices
off the best parts, which he serves to me
in q sauce concocted under my eyes no
one knows what this sauce Is. The carcass
of the unfortunate duck is placed in steel
press whose force Is so gigantic that the
flesh and bones are reduced to the form
and consistency of a brickbat. so all the
juice" the epicure says, land all the mar
row and all the coagulated blood nave
pushed out from the press as from foun-
tain. 1t is with the aid OF this tnat the
great sauce is made.
4 In Chicago.
l have friend. man well on in years,
a sausage caser from Chicago, who comes
to Europe yearly on MS way " <h7io' AAi4i'i'
where he buys up sausage castings from
the slayers of goats. asses, horses, dogs
and other quadrupeds. He always makes
iittis STAY in Paris and has had experience
in the best Paris restaurants. The last time
| saw him he had been to Collins table
d'bote. in the Passage de IOpera, Where
they give complete dinner, from soup TO
nuts, champagne included, for one franc
twenty-five centimes-that Is. quarter of
dollar I've found the place 70 eat at
IaEf+' he exclaimed, jovially. Think how
much money it leaves me to take TO
Henry's and the Chatham bar. ! am con-
G.Ient" he said, as l helped MIN INTO MS
cah-.'I am confident that too much money
is thrown away on food which might De
snent in drink STERLING HELLO.
Use of Flowers.
Frcu the Minneapolis Times
A real flower gives a smart touch to
almost every fashionable costume This
- tlx, aroi