The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-05-06
NEW DESIGNS IN JNDERLINEN.
Full Skirts CAN for Flounces In pctu.
coats.
From La No,nsile Mode.

from La NOUfSHc Nod'.
The important change which has taken
place in making very full skirts noo"ssar.y
brings about a corresponding change IN unGcr-
linen. We hav. escaped from the acute Crisis
which led many women and those not tho
least delicate and careful Of themscivos 10
rcpudiate fluffy lace and tre ribbon and adOIt
odious tights. with grotesQue lines, maxim
tho female outline resemble that Of hathcrs
in bathing costumes, than which nothing can
be more ungracciul, Here il one point os-
tablished. Those wretched tights Of English
origin, known by the name of combinations.
are banished from the toilet.
The fine camhri" chemise. the drawers richly
trimmed with lace. the thin under-petticoat.
have become the indispensable basis of every
woman's dress. Nevertheless these garments
are still buptoncd and adj listed very low on
the stays. so As not TO Increase the size of the
hips. Some women even wear their stays
over them. but this practice often makes
troublesome folds. and the undcrliHen. being
made of fine lawn or nainsook, takes up Il very
small space beneath the silk p%etticoat. which
should be- more correctly called the UNDER
skirt. Ia fact this six p~ctt.coat has length
aud iuIlness around the bottom. intended 10
support tho bottom Of the skirt. The upper
part is still very tight fitting Tie irorS
breadth is cut almost straight. A. few cores
are made in the urler part, and there arc
very narrow Mt the top, with two points Qul,s
fiat behind 10 a depth Of forty Ccntim"trcS.
beneath which is a sort OF ground Of a skirt,
widening largely down to the bottom.
The skirt thus preTnred Is trimmed with
one or two f,ounoes of irllled ~taletas. much
shorter In front than behind. These founCes
are edged with a ruche of ~taffetas, ribbon or
with gathers Of mousselina dc sole, which
wldcns the fiounces and supports the skirt
better.
PettIcoats for the street arc mostly made
stuff, trimmings Of lace or muslin being reserved
for the evening. As soon as the me weather
comes pettlcOatS will borrow the brilliant cOlots
of the flowers turquoise, mauyc, lanrei green,
cerise or orange color. A rcw idea is 10 match
TIE shade Of the petticoa' W. mat Of the lining
OF the skirt all petite , Lg lined with
tanetas In striking color + involves ex-
pense. for the price of pei. is Is still high
and adds greatly to the eypenA' of dress. Pru-
dent women will Therefore have some sort ~
uniformity in the liningsnf their different dresses
Still better, they could choose their Innings
to match the color Of the dress, which viii
enable them TO wear the same p~ettiCOat without
showing inCongruous colOrs when the skirt
is turned NJ.
While petticoats. though still in favor. ara
exclusively worn with evening dresses v"
are told. however. thnt they will bc worn sv
day in the summer. Those made nj the pre-
sent moment HTeSO trimmed with lHces and very
light materials that one almost doubts whether
they are not entirely Of lace, But We 90 rot
see many such petit coats sweeping up the
microbes from tho payemcnts of Paris
We are told to EXPECT for day wear what W.
saw a few years ago-many wide nounocs q
fine linen. lace and embroidered muslin over
silk I"tticoats bright or dark in color. Ia
this case the touncp should be bordered VIII
a large cndlve ruChe of ~taffetaS.