The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1900-07-29
HBREN Of GRAND VZ|ER
WIFE OF THE RUSSIAN MINISTER
TO TANGIER TELLS WHAT
SHE SAW
WHILE BEING ENTERTAINED
LndOIent Life of the Women, Their
JeaIOustes and Gorgeous Sur
rOundings Are VividIy
Described.


Tangier gives the following account of
her visit to the harem of the late grand
vizier, Ba Hamed:
Escorted by twenty soldiers, returned
10 the city to pick up Nine. L, who
had kindly offered to act as interpreter.
Then we proceeded to the immense pal
ace,> or rather castle, of Ba Hamed. A
number of negro guards conducted US
across three or four courts and through
as many enormous iron gateways to the
door of the building, which was also of
iron and very massive. Here the soldiers
left us aid we threaded a vast labyrinth
of corridors under the guidance of sue
cessive relays of negro children or
years old.
At last we stop before a door which
opens suddenly from within, and we find
ourselves in the presence of a half dozen
women who are standing up evidently
waiting to receive US. They include the
vizier's one legitimate wife, his mother
in-law, two sisters and a sister-in-law.
The costume of these ladies is striking.
The upper garment is a long blouse of
figured silk of gorgeous pattern and hue,
very broad across the shoulders. Below
Is a wide and very stiff girdle of red,
green OF purple, brocaded with gold,
tightly laced at the bottom and expand
ing as it rises to meet and support the
bust like a corset. The ladies wear
profusiOn Of necklaces of real and artifi-
Cial gems and big tiaras of stiff ribbon,
Ornamented with jewels, to which are at
taChed VoluminouS silk wells. Fillets Of
narrow ribbon cross their foreheads and
their eyebrows are blackened outrageous
ly, the lines being put on without refer
ence to the natural shape of the brows.
There is a black crescent under the
mouth a dash of scarlet on each cheek,
and little designs in color on the chin
and between the eyebrows The nails
Of the toes, as well as those of the fin
gers, are
STAINED WITH HENNA.
In short, the viziers ladies are startling
and as hideous as heather idols.
They stare at US, shake hands and con-
duct us very slowly (for they. waddle
like geese through several apartments
10 the court of the Thousand and One
Nights" which is a marvel of marble
and mosaic. Three beautiful fountains
are playing in the center, and on all sides
are arcades which are filed with fe-
male attendants
Traversing this court we enter a vast
hall of splendid Moorish workmanship
furnished with three brass bedsteads
some linen-covered divans and chairs
and an oval table laden with viands of
variegated and suspicious appearance
Here we take our seats. aI sit between
the mother-in-law and one of the sisters
the latter of whom Immediately falls
asleep, awakening now and then long
enough to make some extremely indeli-
cate remark and at once relapsing into
slumber The slaves wave handkerchief
and feather brooms to drive away the
flies.
Then, one by one, number of women
straggle ip all as richly dressed as those
who received US. AS many as can find
places sit with us at the table, the rest
remain standing. I observe that my hos
tesses mot to speak of the sleepy sister,
appear tired and i'll at ease. They are
constantly shifting their positions and
moving their feet. AT last the mother
in-law asks me if that high chair does
Tot hurt my legs, and, as 1 see that she
IS very weary Of her own position, 1 am
charitable enough to answer yes. So We
all rise without having touched the
delicacies), and establish ourselves on the
divans ranged round the hall. AS be-
fore the sleepy sister is on my left, tie
old lady on my right. Then comes Nine
I--, thanked by the other sister
The vizier's wife is at some little dis
lance.
LOOKS LIKE A WITCH.
Near the door sits an old negress in
white burnous and red turban, with the
aspect of a veritable witch. This is the
matron of the harem. Her duties are
TO watch the women, adjust quarrels, at
tend to the sick, and report everything
to the master. The latter has, SO tar,
distinguished only one of his slaves with
his especial favor. He is said to be un-
der the thumb of his mother-in-law, who
lives in the palace instead of residing
with her son, the pasta of the village,
according to custom. Mothers are great
" respected in Morocco.
On cushion in the middle of the room
sits young and very richly dressed slave
making tea.
it should be observed that the position
of a slave who has attracted the masters
attention. if only for moment, is quite
similar to that of legitimate wife. Her
children are legitimate, and the sultan
of Morocco himself is the son of a Cir
cassian slave. The numerous working
slaves of this harem are simply and scan
tily dressed
They live on a footing of perfect IA
militarity with their mistresses, and seem
to be happy. Some of them, the sheep
dogs as they might be called, scold the
ladies and even lay violent hands on them
on occasion One of these slaves rudely
interrupted whenever the mOther-in-law
said or seemed about to say anything,
that this mentor deemed improper. Elk
cept for this slave and the matron 1 could
have photographed the ladies who APP
peared quite willing to be taken but
when I produced my camera these two
guardians made such an cutlery that the
ladies took fright.
The mother-in-law seemed more intel