The Republican. [volume] (Oakland, Md.) 1877-current, 1900-05-10

row paths are so roughly paved that
to walk in them is a penance, and its
house walls, whitewashed at least
once a year, dazzle the suffering eyes.
Carriages are not allowed to enter
any of the principle streets, and into
most of them wheeled vehicles could
not possibly force way. AS twilight
approaches men are seen clinging to
the iron ratings of all lower balconies,
holding whispered conversations with
their sweethearts inside the bars.
This is the only recognized method of
courtship, approved of parents and
guardians since time out of mind, and
for Spaniard to neglect bis duty in
this respect would be to brand him
self a laggard in love, unworthy the
smiles of any senorita.
A century ago there were many rich
and populous monasteries in Cordova;
but nearly all of them have been des-
ecrated, or turned into schools and
hospitals. Prominent among the few
that remain is Santa Marta, of the
Jeronymites; the monastery of the
Padres de Garcia, near the barracks
of Alfonso ii; and the Fuen Santa,
just outside the city wealthy convent
of La Trinidad is now occupied by q
corps of Remonta de Cordoba, or Gov
ernment horse trainers, whose busi-
ness is to break the wild horses of the
Sierra for the Spanish cavalry. They
wear short trousers turned up with
red, and brown boots, laced and open
at the sides.
The provincial museum would hard
ly be worth Il visit were it not for a
few Moorish relies. Among the lat
ter is fine collection of spears; the
brim of an Arabian well, in green pot
terry, inscribed with text from the
Koran; and bell of the ninth cen
tury, with Mozarabic legend, that
hung in the tower of San Sebastian,
the oldest convent in Spain.
A number of delightful excursions
may be made in the neighborhood of
Cordova on foot, in the saddle, or en-
coche. Within easy walking distance
is the section known as AlcaZar Vieio
y NeuvO-just beyond the city gate
which Philip II caused to be erected
on the ruins of the Moorish Babu-l-
kanterah, Gate of the Bridge The
Alcazar (royal palace proper, was
built on the site Of Roderies' castle,
the last of the Goths, whose father,
Theofred, was a Duke of Cordoba.
During Arab supremacy, the Archie
piscOpal palace, stable and huerta
were under one roof. A large open
space close by, called the Campo San
ta, was the scene of many Christian
martyrdoms under the Moslems. To
visit the old high-walled garden OF
the AlcaZar one must obtain special
permission i'll town, and also pay an
admission fee. In it the orange trees
eliN lOSOo oAO oOAil IouIlSIlluS-O
their lineal decendants-which the
first Arab ruler in Spain planted for
his Sultana's pleasure, hundreds of
years ago. The place seems haunted
by the shades of dark-eyed beauties
secluded here-many thousands of
them during the five centuries of
Moorish occupation.
A favorite excursion is to the Herm-
atiges of Val Paraiso-''Vale of Para
disen in the Sirra -Morena, four miles
distant. A carriage may go most of
the way, but mule-back is better.
for the road is extremely rough in
places and finally ascends by paths
too steep for wheels. Part of the way
runs through charming woods, bright
in springtime with cistus and purple
iris-but not altogether safe from rob
bers, who may follow one out from
the city. The bravest experience a
creepy sensation at the sight of arm
ed figures coming down the narrow
trail; but generally it is only some re-
turning visitors or the Hermits going
to town, who pass with friendly Span
ish salutation, IVA usted con Dios''-
God be with you. The Brothers of
the Hermitage are now less than 20.
Their habits are brown and they fol-
low the rule of Saint Paul, the Her
nit.
Close by on the mountain side, was
once the most magnificent Moorish
structure in Cordova-the palace of
AZzahra, built for the bride by the
Caliph Annasir. 1t was begun in the
year 936 by artists from Bagdad and
Constantinople-10,0 600 men, 1900 mules
and 100 camels being employed in the
work. The palace cotained $500 pill
lars of various kinds of precious mar
bles; its great hall, the Khaiafat, had
eight doors overlaid with gold and
encrusted with precious stones, hung
in horseshoe arches of ebony and iy-
ory. In the lesser hall, called Almu-
mis-, was magnificent fountain
brought from Constantinople, deco
rated with many figures of animals
made of pure gold adorned with pre-
cious stones, the water streaming from
the mouths.
Local traition and history agree
that the whole land of Islam contain
ed nothing to compare with this pal
ace, and its beauties passed the pow
er of language to describe. Annasir
lived in it 25 years, with force of 20,
600 servants, besides 1850 Schlavonian
gardeners, the annual expense of the