The Washington weekly post., 1900-10-02

FfT F.NElIHu fNHTi-ls Jul uAAtAF1 tllt ldlilA.
rass of the FrenchWOman She takes at
o1cs u the English woman's tailor rig
fsr walking or outing because Il Is so
easy. Then she begins 10 mitigate its
Yigors Of outline without interfering
with rs easiDoss. one consequence OF
this Is that the double skirt effect appears
row for The outing dress, and, after all.
= skirt that Is close about the hips and
that stops At the knee 10 allow pleating
% escape. is not only less severe looking
than a plain skirt but swings freer. Up
Ter and lower skirt are made OF the same
or Of contrasting color. Sketched here is
one IN plain red cheviot. the fiOunce head
% by bias fold Of green cloth. OF the
latter was the jacket. which had orna-
meulatlon OF machine stitching. The
waistcoat OF bright red silk fastened
With green buttons.
Gay Gsif Costumes.
This sounds pretty gay. but It Is not a
circumstance TO some Of the gowns In
which the two portions Of the skirt cor
trast. Thus below a plain dark brown
sheath portion may come a pleated
n0unce Of the brightest plaids, say one
showing orange. green and brown. Then
the brown jacket will have revers Of eth
tr orange or OF the plaid What Is styled
q Jersey waistcoat Is often worn beneath
such Jackets. These are TO be had In all
The bright col0rs and are low-necked.
short-sleeved affairs that slip on over the
head and draw close to the figure by the
cling of the weave Sometimes they have
little line of buttons, but this is merely
a pretense. and the pleat drawn beside
Them Is just 10 break the garments plain
TFFHF M hen No. l. 81
talk about shirt waists, one is not per-
mitted 10 wear a shirt and this waist
coat without a jacket II one is likely 10
want 10 doff the jacket. sne should wear
waistcoat OF jersey or silk that opens
in front and will slip OFF with the coat.
There will be little uniformity about
fall fashions In calling. driving, church,
and reception gowns. For several sea
sons women have run strongly TO tailor
styles, then they began To add frivolous
touches 10 the tailOr-made, and all
woman's dress looked alike. This sea-
sons planning il wiser. The tailor dress
returns 10 its simplicity with those who
can afford 10 keep IL to It's real purpose,
as we'll as among those who have more
use for the tailor than for any other
class Of dress. 1t may be made of the
toughest cloth, in dull and useful color,
but II must be Of simple and unwoTried
outline and detail So must Il be il made
OF the choicest broadcloth and in delicate
color.
Suggestions for Calling Gowns.
one or two tailors are all any woman
reeds unless she leads a business life
and lives in tailor suits, and gowns of
ctn6r sCrts are surprisingly varied one
from another They are of cloth, silk,
novelty goods, pop!ins, and. for later
wear. of velvet Some very dressy mod
els are being turned out for luncheon and
calling on reception days of striped silk.
Finshings, overdress. yoke, cuffs, or Un-
Gersleeves are of plain silk to match the
lighter color, and are overlaid with lace.
This is an especially good design for the
ever-fashionable combination of black
and white Elaborate employment OF
this combination is seen at the test in
the next illustra ton. where black and
white silk plain white silk and overlay-
ing OF lace were the cOmponents. Ordi-
narily the amount Of lace is much small
ar. and when used skillfully. a little may
be made 10 add much OF dressiness
The general tendency in these gowns
IS 70 use al least two materials, and CON
trasts in color are favored. As an illus
tration, consider the second gown OF the