The times., 1900-12-23

Wilhelmina OF Holland, who Is as fond
of clothes as any other girl about to be
married. is buying most ef her trousssau
in Paris, where she has hired a suite of
aDartments from November until about
the middle of next month. Her Highness
has a diz.este for publicity. and if any of
her modistes nvTS 20 tell newspaper
woman about the wonderful gowns she is
making, she would forfeit the royal pat
ronage at once. In describing her comings
and goings, from a sartorial point of
view, a writer from the French capital
says:
''Wilhelmina goes TO Paris incognito
and pays no calls of state. nor does she
go through any ceremonies of an official
character whatever. President Loubet
however, knows of her visits. and daily
sends her a bunch of white flowers. tied
with handsome white ribbon, with
little note of congratulation from himself
and Nine. Loubet attached.
''As she stepped from her voiture into
one of the shops oa the Boulevard Hauss-
mann a few days ago, she wore a toilet of
ash grey cloth, trimmed with medalliens
OF argent blue braid The Jacket was OF
chinehilla with the lapels OF eraine ap-
pliaued with designs OF Irish lace sewed
upon cut-out satin.
Another gown OF amethystineScloth had
the skirt held in stitched tucis all around
the figure. The bodice had gilet Of en-
broidered satin widening to yoke of silk
modore. Tho toQue had a crown of anle-
thrstine colored panne outline in gold, fin
~. Ir.f-, .,aFk df1E inv ~
sette OF pale lavender and white panne
nestled against the blonde hair, clasped
with a buckle of amethysts.
'-Muffs of ostrich feathers are very
fashionable for midwinter wear, and the
feathers are dyed TO match the color Of
The gown. AHilhslniIa carried one one
day, of blue, TO match blue cloth gown.
Another very pretty effect in muffs,
introduced by Wilhelmina. who has sud-
denly become very 6ressy, is to have them
composed entirely of fur and girded around
the middle with deep band of gilt braid
finished with several gilt tassels. The light
fars. such as silver fox, ermine. and chin
chilla. are NEST in demand, and NUNS OF
those materials are lined with satin, most
fashionably in turquoise blue, amethys-
tine eau de Nil, argent bleu silver blue),
coral pink, and white.
Dame Nature must spare no effort next
spring if she hopes TO outdo Dame Art-in
the production of flowers Of the field and
garden. The velvet geraniCms, chTysan-
lhemums, Pelargoniums, roses. poppies. fu-
chias, margueriteE, tulips, etc, that make
UP The floral display in the shops just now
are marvels Of loneliness in grace ard COL
or Every woman dressmaker is loading
the evening gowns with gsrlands of rich
blossoms, and 50 strong is the influence of
The flowers that The gowns are given the
names OF the posies they exploit.
One orders, for example, an orchid din
ner dress, or geranium ball toilet. or
an iris opera frock, and the whole color
scheme of the costume is laid down with
a view to harmonizing with the tufts
and sestoons of brilliant blooms. Enor-
1nous shoulder knots of velvet roses or
big pastel tinted peonies ornament every
black dress, and, not content with gar
landing the gowns, women pin mighty
nosegays on their evening wraps, on
their ostrich feather and chenille boas
and on their chiffon and ermine muffs.
To render the flowers even more tri-
umphantly conspicuous by gasiighf,
they are spangled, or glitter with silver
dust along the edges of their velvet and
silk muslin petals. This very frankly
announces the floral garnitures as arti-
fetal, but does not detract from their
beauty, though one of the oldest and
fora is the charming wilted blooms that
one artistic and enterprising manufact
u-er has produced His wilted flowers
are made OF liberty silk and are so amaz-
ingly natural in appearance that only by
actual touch and close inspection can
the deception be discovered.
Pailiettes are not by any means out OF
fashion. but used in a different manner.
1t may be many seasons before Pari-
siennes give up a glittering trimming on
The toilette de bal. The colored gems and
Scintillating paillettes are now mixed
with other rich decorations, and conse-
quelItiy must be less numerous
Applique painted muslin flowers in re-
lief, having their foliage embroidered in
silk with a few strass stones sprinkled
here and there, are a charming garniture
for q crepe de chine or mousseline de
sole evening toilette.
Lace, having incrustations of gold as
centres to painted silk flowers, applique as
a trimming, is a pretty mode. A toilette
OF this description had the corsage Of lace
half hidden beneath a bolero of finely lat
Jiced gold braid, which was particularly
effective. Many soft crepe de chine. panne
and velvet evening gowns are made en-
prlncesse, having the corsage draped
tightly crosswise, trimmed with g1lipure
outlined with I'll d or. A picturesque-look
ing pastel rose panne dress had perfectly
tight-ftting corsage forming deep point
in front and very short on the hips,
whence the full gathers on either side
added a certain quaint style. broad
white guipure and gold lace collar orna-
mented the decolletage. Round the basque
ana fitting closely to the edge of the cor
sage vas broad gold gallon studded with
colore. stones. which fell in two long ends
towftr6 the hem of the plain skirt in front