The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1900-07-16


ter mildly. 1 was accustomed TO ascend
the walls by the incliped planes and take
long walks. usually with the Netherlands
minister. Jan Heienns Ferguson. MT.
a erguson has been fifteen years In Pc
king, and AT that time was the only for
eign minister there who mad been received
by a Chinese emperor IN person. All
business was transacted with the Tsung-
II Yamen. We frequently examined the
famous Chinese astronomical instruments
on the wall. They were interesting but
seemed little used aud OF little use. The
walls OF Peking are about fifty feet high
and forty feet thick and at intervals tow
ers rise above them a hundred feet These
are In a more or less dilapidated condi-
ton. From the embrasures In the wall We
would gaze down at the camels resting
nearby, waiting to enter the gate or 70
be loaded for a journey.
In the evening there was fine skating
at the rink. Some OF the best skating
1 have ever witnessed was by Russians
In Peking. Snow could be seen OH out
lying hills, but seldom I'm the city. The
latitude OF Peking is the same as that
OF Philadelphia. There was a great deal
OF social life in Peking. The ladies Of
the embassies held afternoon teas, which
were generally attended, beside having
the regular calling days. 1 shall never
forget the generous hospitality or Mrs.
Denby and OF Lady Walsham, the Bri-
tish minister's wife. or course dinners,
diplomatic and private were frequent.
l never have seen elsewhere such service
as Chinese servants give. AT the United
States legation four tall servants with
their conical caps and colored buttons
stood at respectful distance from the
corners OF the dining table and I'm abso-
lutte silence transferred the courses with
out a word of direction Arom any one.
all went like clock work. while the stream
N a nd T.
ly flowed. After dinner came billiards,
may be, or any OF the indoor sports OF an
official civilized country.
During the winter there were various
special functions. Minister Won Brunt
with Baron Won Ketteler. his secretary
OF legation, gave a magnificent costume
ball. IL took weeks TO prepare for this
occasion. Baron Won Ketteler was then
a man OF about 80, OF most hearty and
genial disposition, and extremely popu-
lar In the diplomatic circle. His long
experience I'm China and familiarity with
the languages made him most worthy
representative OF Germany but did not
deliver him In the recent catastrophe OF
which he was foremost in the van and
the first martyr TO duty.
Among the famous actors In the great
est tragedy of the closing century whom
l met at Peking were Sir Robert Hart,
I'm charge of the Imperial Maritime Gus
president OF the College OF Peking. Both
OF these men have served the empire for
more than thirty years yet. IL reports be
true, they, too, were overwhelmed by the
great wave OF anti-foreign feeling set In
motion by the Boxers. III cannot be that
the throne, dependent largely on the in
come raised by Sir Robert, ever really
desired his death. nor was our DR.. Martin
less true TO the country he served. On
several occasions l have dined I'm his
home and all had the most profound re-
spect for his learning ana work. DIR.
Martin and DIR. Edkins were the two
sinologues OF Peking and at all meetings
OF the Picking Oriental Society they were
regarded the highest authority. Like 8.
Wells Williams. these men were formerly
missionaries but finally turned their vast
stores OF knowledge of the Chinese lam
guage and character into the government
service.
Fleming d. Cheshire. our Interpreter
for many years at Peking is, according TO
reports. among those who have perished
In the frightful massacre. He was In Pc
king long before the days OF John Russell
Young and was one OF three Americans
who went to China soon after the Civil
War. They mastered the language with
unremitting energy and held posts In the
more important consulates. Their lives
would read as fascinating romances. None
in this entire period. One of them, Mr.. j.
r. Coyles, son of well known Massa-
chusetts pastor. is supposed to have per-
ished in South America. The other, one
of Sheridans brigade, who took letter
from President Johnson to Anson Bur-
lingame at Peking, w. N. Pethick, was
long in Tien-Tsin. and now for many
years has been confidential adviser to III.
E., Ii Hung Chang. He had fine coll
lection Of ceramics in Picking, which Lady
Walsham pronounced among the finest
I'm the world. To illustrate the generosity
of foreigners in the far east | will say
that, on my falling TO make proper con-
nections in money matters at some time.
he loaned me $780, refusing an acknowl-
edgment or security and making light OF
IL when II was returned. as though IL
were thing he would be glad to do for
anyone.
During my stay in Peking the Emperor
Kirang Hosii assumed the reins of au-
thority. Notices were sent to all the lega-
Itions. curious custom In China is for
court receptions to be held I'm the very
early morning. IL must have seemed a
change for the Marquis Tseng their am
bassador to France, on his return to
China to enter Peking in O cart and re-
port to the Son of Heaven at o'clock i'm
the morning. On this occasion. February
Z, 1887, could not withstand the tempta-
ton to see what could, and stealing out
OF the legation between I and I'm the
morning j walked around the walls OF the
palace buildings. Long lines of courtiers,
and at one gate, numerous carts were as
sembled. At one point 1 managed. unno-
ticed, TO Chamber to the top OF the wall
from an adjoining mound and 10 peer
within the sacred incosure with its i'm
mense yellow tiled buildings. Below
could hear the rattles OF the guards. Az
ter a walk OF four or five miles I crept
back to my bed but 1 never told I'm Peking
of my curiosity or adventure, as knew
IL would not oe approved
One of the most interesting events was
wedding of the sister OF the Belgian
minister's wife TO the secretary of the
French Legation. As she was Servian.
they were married first I'm the Catholic
cathedral and then in the chapel OF the
Greek church connected with the Rus
sian Legation. All members OF the diplo-
matte body We're out, and with the gold
lace and decorations, the display I'm both
places was magnificent. The plainness
of the costumes OF our American minis-
ter stands out In pleasing relief against