The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-10-14
some OCTOBER STYLES
The Craze for Gold Ensures lis
Early Downfall.
Paris styles Are Reminiscent of M
poleonic Emhlcms. the Eagle. the
Violet. md the Bec-The New Hat
Shnpes Include the Chapcau of the
French Gcndnrmc and Fur TOquc.

Velvet is plainly the vogue. 1t is used
for everything except rainy day suits, and
all colors can be secured fer wearers who
prefer them to conventional black. You can
get it in price all the way from forty nine
cents up to almost as many dollars yard.
The cheap fabrics used for shirt waists
come in polka dotted and plain. 1t
is scarcely necessary for \judges of vel
vet to be told that the cheap grades are
ccttony and are less attractive when made
into shirtwaists than materials of wash
fabric, which makes no pretence at being
fine. Still, there are always people who
revel in limitations and if they are happy
nobody else ought to complain-least of all
the dealer.
Silk velvets-the real thing-form the
basis for very elaborate costumes. The
most extravagant trimming is lavished on
these gowns. Gold thread, lines of narrow
but expensive laces, and beautiful jets are
combined to form embroideries for their
establishment. Some of the embroideries
are done on net and used as founces to
velvet gowns. Black velvets are combined
WIN Jelc, SLuuioiueIs, Siih dluih6, anu
superb, contrasting lace garnitures, and
offer background to the new gold lace
fabrics that create really royal effects.
Velvet is seen on all sides as a trim
ming, either in folds or ribbon. An ex-
hbition of French gowns held recently
charmingly illustrated its use. Stitched
folds of velvet are fashionable, and mar
row bands of velvet are used by Paquin
and other Of the great couturieres some
thing like braid. The great French gown
builders are very partial also to velvet
combined with gold. Black velvet, en-
broidered with gold, is also used for dec
GRAFTON on The new rough materials. Smart
touches of velvet are added on coats and
Jackets for collars, cuffs rever facings,
and undersleeves. Velvet has already de-
monstrated its popularity in the new mil
linery. Not only is the picturesque Gains
borough Of velvet, as of yore, but the new
fiat turban and the smart walking hat
Miroir and panne velvet are both used
Charming hats are shown in velyets OF
blended tones, the dahlia and amethyst
shades being especially lovely. The castor
shades and the new grey, fumez, very
much like London smoke. are also fash
ionable. Black is, of course, highly ia
vored. Millinerial combinations of velvet
and fur and velvet and lace are shown
and these are very rich and effective.
Sarah Bernhard, with her play ''L'Aig-
lon,' has revived the customs of the Ma
poleonic era SO successfully that no cos
tune is complete in France unless in
some way it includes in its decorations
the eagle, the violet, or the bee. The
eagles, in gold or brass-no silver effects
are allowed this season-are used gen.
orally as collar clasps, ditto the bees.
As to the violet, it can be demonstrated
in the color of the gown or the trimming
that adorns it. Gold is to be the para
mount issue Of the coming winter in the
fashionable world. and the Quietest toile,
is incomplete without flash Of 1t some
where. Its very popularity ensures its
early death, however; SO that people witt
moderate means will hesitate abou,
tinsel and gilt.
Tailors now ask their customers if they
want their skirts cut in ''v'' at the
band in front. This is to allow the belts
to be pulled down and give the desired
long waist appearance. Bodices are now
boned down over the waist line, and il
the belt is worn at all it merely Is a
string Of velvet or a narrow stitched belt
In the way of hats, the tricorne Of the
French gendarme is decidedly popular
1t is made of felt bound with gold braid
and has velvet rosettes fastened by golt
cabochons against its upturned sides. Il
is made also of sable with lace draperies
rival of the tricorne is the Prince
Charlie. which has the advantage o.
coming more newly on the field. 1t is &
small cooked hat, too easily vulgarized
perhaps, like the tricorne, but capable o.
great results under proper handling. Fun
hats, la Russia, have also arrived, ant
while expensive their wearers can al
least be warm--one style openly showi
oar fang for freezinp weather