Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1900-03-22
TIE FASHIONS IN new YORK
New Gowns Show That Jacket
Fronts Are Again Popular.
THE SKIRTS HAVE BOX PLAITS
Independent Waists Are Made
S of Silk Squares.

In millinery. Open and Fancy straws Are |
Almost Universal - Tuckings, Either IN |
the Hat Itself or It's Trimmings, Are Very
Noticeabls-Leayes and Grapes Are the
Garniture Par Excelience.
New York, March 16. New gowns Of
all descriptions show that jacket fronts
and Elton jackets as we'll, are again ex-
tremely popular. In wool gowns for the
street, such styles lead, the more SO as
opportunity is given for becoming full
fronts and many attractive contrasts.
The placing of extremes together. such
rs chiffon or mousseline or wool, is fire.
auent, and at times the reyers of wool
dress is outlined by mousseline ruch
ing that harmonizes with stitched,satin
or some kindred light fabric. Some
wool jackets are very fancifully cut, and
reach only about half way to the waist,
the fastening concealed beneath the left
arm, and the interval to the waist line
filled In preferably by silk plaitings.
Other jackets have longfpointed fronts,
and buttoned closely is noticeable.
In skirts, there is much variety as to
detail, with. premise of still more in
the future. The leading style shows
large double box plat in the back, but
again two smaller box plaits are placed,
and some skirts have cluster of mar
row plaits instead of the wider ones
mentioned above. No positive rule OBJ
tsins, and some examples display
medium plaits set all around and fall
ing IN tucks to within some distance
from tbs bottom. Other skirts have
strapped seams to within foot and
half from the over edge, and fullness
Is obtained by box plaits turning
inside at the end of each seam.
Numerous will be the fancies in skirts
as the season progresses, and a very
stylish example is wholly plain at the
waist, an inch and half below which
commence all around tucks that start
as mere stitchings and increase gradu-
ally to the bottom, the skirt becoming
fuller as they grow wider.
Extreme style attaches to indepen-
dent waists made of silk squares almost
q yard each way and finished with
fringe that completes beautiful Oriental
patterns set in wide borders. Two
squares usually compose waist, but
one may be utilized in connection with
more standard material, and there are
silks brought out in square patterns,
out Of course without the fringed edges
The fringes alluded to are not the
knotted ones that are SO fashionable,
but rather the warp or wool of the
fabric left free, yet the material is firm,
SO that loose threads do pot mar the
finish. Much is left to the modesto
fancy In the making up of these
fripged squares or silk woven in squares
and in evidence of the popularity Of
jacket fronts, mention may be made Of
an elegant example showing the same.
Such styles also afford proof that thai
independent waists are restored to q
high position, and outfits showing then
take rank with entire gowns, this mo-
having been the case some little time
ago.
Lord & Taylor's pattern milliner,
establishes open and fancy straws al
almost universal, and also the folding
in straw which have been so popular
with rery large proportion in colors
At times, the presentation of the caste
shades, both In straw or garniture
induce most novel appearance, blu
some hats are in very bright colors, 81
there will be great choice. TuckIngs
either In the hat itself or its trimming
are very noticeable, and hat of blu
silk closely tucked throughout, with
profusion of white roses clambering al
over Ii, is model of pretty refinement
The crown is round and of medium
height, and the brim straight, and i
can be said that hats in such shap
afford pleasing change from numerou
ones twisted in every imaginable con
tour. Wings are largely used, and ma
form the sole finish to conyolute
straws, this being desirable fer summe
outdoor wear, though the genuine Out
ing hat is of course in severe outlines
which nevertheless are fatal to som
faces, and for them a fancy shape is
needful refuge. In dressy milliner,
the employment of grapes as tIimmin
is very marked, and sometimes the
appear in luscious and delightfl
abundance. almost corcealing 10 rio
clusters and leafy attendance the b,
they ornament. Again, most delica
harmoniesi are reached by gale gree
fruit in a soft transparency. The III
OF tinted leaves in millinery cannot
too strongly emphasized; and apa
from grapes. they are the garniture II
excellence Of the season.
Wash fabrics are Of great importan
of course, and come in unusual yarie
and attractiveness. A special demar
is made for thin cottons in stripes al
tucked throughout in accordance wi
the present rage for such finish. Din
ties in solid colors, or showing spra
or dots, have their own peculiar char
Foulardines reproduce in sheer fiji
cotton Fourlard silk patterns. Japane
crinkle cloth is high style, becau
showing the favorite crinkle and plaj
in pastel colorings from extremely ne
morning dresses for grown up weare
or children. Poult de sole is a m,
cerized cotton in Persian designs, ha
to distinguish from silk. Gable co
weaves show, as the name would inc
cats, raised treads in stripes or dair
plaids. Dimity satin rave is also
delicate stripes on plaids. Crep
nouyeaute is q charming combinati
Of mercerized cords, with soft ere
alienation in stripes or small plai,
Fancy surahs repeat the surah wea
80 much liked in silks. Spot Gre
shows the oregon surface in figur
material. In shirred Carcanet |
crepon weave also appears in so
coiors, and organdies are seen in spr,
between stripes. Heavy outing cote
are in whipoord finish, and the du
weayes are Q necessity.
Rosalind May
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