The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1900-01-19
SUMMER URESS.
New Stuffs and Fashions Now
Displayed.
Charming Materials Among New
Goods.
THE FAD IN WAISTS.
The Cape Effect Around Shout
ders a Feature.
Pretty One Color Schemes of
New Gowns.
tFrom the New York SUM-

A---S-AA@% 1890
as a feverish dream, a sort of whirl-
wind Of winter furs and diaphanous
things for summer combined, but all
the more attractive for the striking
contrast it affords. 1t is like a promise
of spring in nnidwinter to see the dainty
lawns, embroidered Swiss ginghams
and eolOred piques spread out for in
SpectiOn, and women are on the outlook
for everything and anything new in the
way of fashions for summer dress.
However much a woman may protest
against her SeX'S reputed love Of new
clothes, it is all there if she is a true
woman, and it really does not matter
so much whether the clothes are for
present use or for six months hence, so
long as she can only buy new things
and get ahead of herself in the accu-
mutation of a summer outfit.
Something pretty for waists, and en-
tire dresses, if you can afford the ex-
travagance, is an all-over eXquisitely
embroidered batiste in the pale bis
cult tintS. 1t comes in charming lace
like patterns, in double width, with
beautiful insertions to match Other
novelties in batiSte are the robe dresses
of white embroidered with pale colors
in a bow-knOt pattern with scalloped
ruffies for a finish. Colored batistes
are embroidered with white in the
same pattern.
The special fad of the moment is the
taffeta and China silk squares for sep
arate waists. They come in Persian
designs in an indeScribable variety of
cOlOrs, but some of the most effective
are in mixtures Of gray, black and
white on different colored plain grounds
which show in a border around the edge
fringed fully one inch wide. In taffeta
the squares are large, two being re-
quired for a waist, and are used in
combination with plain taffeta in
black, white or a color to match the
ground This is used for plated vest,
from which the fringed corners turn
back in soft revers, and sometimes for
sleeves with a cap Of the figured silk
at the top. In the China silk squares
three are required for a bodice, and
they are not fringed. The pastel tintS
in the taffeta squares are exqu1s1tely
soft while the China silks show a
brighter coloring.
Something very charming among the
new materials is the figured crepe de
chine all in one color. Large flowers
overlapping one another in cOnVen-
tionaI disorder have the appearance of
being pressed into the surface, giving
a very pretty effect without the help
of any variation in colOrfng. This stuff
costs 81 a yard, but it is double width
and very durable, so 1t is not so costly
Some of the details of dress which
will characterize the coming fashions
are the continued use of plaits, and
tucks in every conceivable form, and
the cape effect around the shoulders,
which will materialize in various ways
The prettiest form of the cape effect IS
a deep collar of heavy lace railing just
a bit over the points Of the shoulders
to give the broad look which the new
close fitting sleeve does not supply. A
little cape, or deep collar, made Of
series of shaped folds of cloth, each
edged with narrow lace applique, rows
of stitching. or very narrow fringe
which matches the cloth in color, is an
other edition of this idea which may be
anticipated for the new spring gowns.
These cape collars and the snort DO
leros are evidently manifestations of
fashion to which we can pin our faith,
as there are no violent revolutions in
sight.
A decided change in skirts is prom
Used, but it seems to consist principally.
so far as heard from, in still more
careful close fitting around the hips,
and not in any reduced quantity OF ma
teriaI required. or any waning popu-
larity for the plaitS which are so much
in evidence just at the moment Inc
graceful flare which adds so much TO
the beauty of outline, will be increased
rather than lessened, and plain skirts
evidently will be quite out of the ques-
ton. Absolutely plain skirts, with no
decoration whatever, have had no place
in the winter fashions, and summer
gowns are sure to amplify and embel-
liSh every point in fashion Which can
add fluff and frills and dressy effect.
One very pretty scheme OF dress Tor
summer Is 10 CA1OOSC d DCSoAAA41AS COACA
and use it, in varying shades, Of course,
throughout the entire outfit With
black, white and the neutral tints OF
gray and tan for a background, the one
color scheme can be carried out with
very distinguished effect, and, after all,
effect is the one thing for which TO
strive so long as the efforts are con-
fined within limits of what is refined,
elegant and stylish. Conspicuous and
bizarre things are never in good taste,
no matter what the modes may be, and
this is one of the few periods in dress
when fashions can be adapted to the IN
dividuality of the Wearer without sacrl-
ficing any style or 1OrteltlnS any de-
sirable feature.
All the latest models in dressy gowns
are very much trimmed on the bodice
with intricate embroideries Of gold and
silver thread silk and chenille and va
rious applique designs Of velvet, lace
and silk. There is just as much fine
tucking with the open work hemstitch-
ing between the groups as ever, and no
doubt this sort of decoration viii be
carried over into the summer campaign
of dress Extremely simple gowns are
not under consideration just at present,
even though some gowns have the ap-
pearance of being comparatively plain
Interminable rows of stitching deco
rate the skirts and fancy vests, Jokes
and revers are the leading features Of
the bodice, while the more dresSy
gowns absorb every kind of decora-
ton in the list. Laces, jewelled trim
mings. hand embroidery, bands of fur
and tn daintiest piaitings of chiffon
make up the decoration of the fashion
able cloth gown. Six or seven tucks or
folds around the hips, beginning five or
six inches below the waist line, are seen
on some Of the new skirt models, while
others show the lengthwise box plaits
laid underneath so that the edges meet
on the outside where they are either
stitched down within ten or twelve
inches of the hem or caught down with
a silk cord laced across. Side plaits
all around turning toward the back
from either side of the front are an
other variation of the plated skirt.
and the plaits are confined by rows of
stitching in scalloped lines running
around arranged In groups with wide