Evening star., 1900-07-07

and its early moderate prices into the most
cynical charges. The clientele that made
this night restaurant interesting left Il
long ago with the invasion Of tho tourist
and IL now remains place whore inno-
cert Americans and Englishmen. on their
first travels, sit staring across the room at
each other
MaXims expensive ''Iump-cork'' made the
party lively. and. fulfilling ideal born Of
the stage gayety OF THE Girl From Max
i'm s. they almost had a good time look
ing across their glasses at the hungry
pierrettes of the place In the midst Of it.
unhappily. our American trod on the tall
of pet dog belonging to one of the PASTE
diamond-laden ladies. There are more
dogs in Paris than IN ConstantInople. and
they all have lady owners. who take them
to restaurants. to cafes and even theaters
The lady shrieked with indignation and
her escort, like gallant Frenchman.
started lverbally) to chastise the aggressor.
Trouble Ahead.
Thanks to the intervention of a cooler
headed American of the party this first
trouble was smoothed over, though not un-
til the maitre d'hotel had expressed his con-
tempt for those goujats Of Anglo-SaSons
who are always making a disturbance.
One OF us ought to punch that waiter,''
murmured our friend: but the others over
ruled him. Was II intentional that the
next order came up duplicated, twice as
much as anybody wanted? Was II due to
the weakness OF the party's French? In
any case the party started to leave. show
ing Its displeasure. As he reached for his
hat and cane the young American knocked
of a Frenchman's hattie Freuchman who
had scolded him about the dog. Il was too
muchi 1t could not be an accident The
unadvised Gaul, attempting tn grab the in
sulter by the collar. received a lghir ng
upper cut that caused him TO sink to The
floor and sit there, holding his chin in his
two hands.
What followed will not soon be efraced
from the memory of Maxims maitre d'ho-
tel. At the head Of three walters he charged
to the rescue, They went down like ten
pins. Ready to knock down the entire per-
sonnel and clientele TO boot, the heroic
band Of Americans retreated in good order
assailed from every side with taunting
words and hunks OF bread and chicken
bonesi Cochons d'Americans, Goujats, AL
cooliquesf" So ended one Partisan night.
The Races.
Ask Partisan for a catalogue Of Paris
pleasures and 1t is ten to one he VIII put
the race course in a prominent place. While
the tourists certainly do find their way to
Longchamps and Auteuil. and while riskIng
money on fast (and Slow horses is not an
affair OF any particular language. 1 would
not put down the races as the strangers
solace in a disappointing city. Shall he
pel Oh llOSe nOrSeS ABOUT which he knows
nothing? A well-known figure on the course
has made an epigram on the subject One
has to guess three things: First II the
horse can win: second, II the owner wants
to win: third. II the Jockey will let him
win. It's too much guessing" According
to a disgruntled tourist friend there are two
ways of seeing the Paris races the cheap
and nasty and the expensive and foolish.
You can't go decently without cab can
your he says. And IL you are doing the
expensve-foolish act the pleasure Of the
afternoon will be spoiled in a cheap. COM
mon street cab.
Every one, including the ladies' will know
you are puree (or "soup') II You do not 20
and return in one OF those imitation private
cabs that hang out beside the opera Put
that down 50. Entrance to the paddock is
Sf From every bet you make they take of
Z per cent for the poor OF Paris. Suppose
You have bet. winning and losing $50 Put
down $3.50 rake-on. II you get through an
afternoon at Longchamps for less than sl6
you are doing more than / can And now
take the other way, the cheap-and nasty
On crowded river boat or sufrocating Relt
line train you wilt your collar and perspire
your clothes through even before arriving
The pelouse is cheap pandemonium blis-
ter1ng hot without an inch OF shade
crowded ten deep at the track. and so conn
pietey packed ABOUT the betting booths that
people make a lucrative business of CASH
ing winning tickets for those who have not
courage to risk being crushed There fs
nothing to drink but lcorice water There
" sec puA lll-dreSS6Q 1Olk pro-
fusely perspiring. And for reward Won have
the right to play game that every four
teen times eats up your entire capital In
lose.
Expects Too Much.
The truth is. the American expects too
much In Paris. so is disappointed. Nor il
ne to the manor born-or trained The
aosinthe hour, the 8 o'clock tea of the
boulevard, is delight" disdained or r1is.-
ed by him In nearly every case Who really
does enjoy the absinthe hour? The busI
ness man Of Paris, the government clerk
the army officer in plain clothes the actor
and artist and the whole army OF we'll
dressed do-nothings, to whom Paris is their
country town and the great boulevard no
more than its Main street Just as the citi.
zehs OF our small towns at home crowd
round the post ONCE of afternoons to Ross,n
anu comment on passing girls SO these
fArlsians Sit on the sidewalk terraces of
tns boulevard to look and talk The out
sider as no more at home with one than
with the other. As for absinthe L have VET
10 meet the first male tourist willing 10 at
tempt II Women often wish to taste the
Vaunted poison, whose flavor they dispr.t
eoiy compare TO that OF paregoric The
usuai tourist nnds the absinthe hour Ike
all the rest, disappointment Before the
Grand Hotel stand lying guides 1t is a
pleasure city proved false to its reputation
why? Because the population does NOT
speak plain English.
STERLING HEILIG.