New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1900-03-07


Mourning styles should be fairly simple but
otherwise the choice depends upon the age and the
individual taste of the Grape is used only
in combination, and It is not by any the
perishable thing it was of yore, it does not
crystsllize" If 1t happens get wet but keeps
fresh and of handsome appearance to the last.
perfect contrast, too, is offered to its crinkly
surface by the fine and dull cloths voiles CASH
meres and cords which at present much in
favor.
suitable gown for deep mourning is made in
fine black cashmere with a complete bodice of
Grape swathed closely around the figure. while the
long, tight fitting Grape sleeves tucked finely
from shoulder to wrist. Running down the sides
OF the skirt in three long lines there bands of
Grape two inches wide. little distance apart
from each other. Half way between the knees and
the hem Of the skirt these lines met by deep
band Of Grape, which is cut out in a series of
curves. Each line of Grape trimming is met by the
topmOst point of OF these curves at the sides
Of the skirt that the effect given almost that
Of two panels of Grape with the plain cashmere
at the back and front Of the gown. At the back.
! by the way, the cashmere is finely peated that
the fulness is considerable. in strong to
the habit back" long familiar.
Another pretty gown. also intended for deep
mourning, Is made In a soft black fabric,
thing like woonen crepe de chine The skirt is
made with a long tunic which is edged with
nat plpings OF Grape. This tuniC falls
underskirt which is made entirely of Grape and
cut with a short train. The skirt is lined under
meath with many little frills of black gace silk
which help to give that faring effect the hem
so necessary TO the success OF a gown the pres
ent moment This gown has pretty bodice Of the
black material, draped with a ichu of Grape. The
menu Is bordered with ntte gathered frill OF
Grape and knotted loosely in front, with long ends
railing gracefully the skirt Little ruffies of
Grape finish the throat and sleeves.
Millinery has to bear a special character for
mourning purposes, and only certain materials and
fashions are appropriate. Large hats made
entirely Of black peau de sole. and a charming
toque has nigh crown covered in this silk and
a brim made of black wired canvas embroidered
with silk flowers
A toque in black has the light crown covered
with duh embroidered lace and the brim with
chiffon drawn into the tiniest ruches intervals
and finished with a pleated chiffon scarf put all
round, with the dropping ends falling the hair
at the back. Toques the chief mourning head
gear. and though the millirers show hats and
/ nets, they are not well patroniZed excepting
the bonnet which Is a necessary accompaniment
the veil.
half mourning flower tooues are pretty,
made of vioets and of orchids in the curious
luish violet tint which matches the cloths so
much the rage for gowns. A fashion for black
and white toqueS is 70 have a scarf with embrotd-
cred ends outstanding at the side. These ends are
covered thickly with silver sequins embroidery.
Fringe has at last become a feature of the days
I fashions. The end Tor which fringe manufaCtur-
finally been attained. But ii has nevertheless, in
way put end to the multitude of tuckS and
| peats Of frls and elaborate embroideries. which
still flourish bravely Fringe lends itself
end contributes a stylish finish to the edge Of
tunics.