The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1900-01-14


Than Was the Cnse Last Year
Rapid Transition to Knot at
the Top of the Head an interest
ing Thing in CoiRures.
Silk this winter often means satin,
soft and exquisite, fabric for beautiful
women. And peculiarly for those who
are not, to render them so. The makers
OF liberty satin have come upon mate
ria fulfilling the requirements Of art and
fashion. 1t is fitted to survive in fact
and theory
The most elegant of the separate waists
for winter wear are done from liberty
satin in white or colors The soft, cling
ing quality of the weave adapts itself to
decoration from lace and chiffon, even
fur.
With each midseason reaction from the
gay colors in vogue usually expresses it
self in combinations of black and white.
This winter is no exception. An attrac-
tive mode of the hour shows the union in
evening gowns and in waists of white
SATIN black chiffon and black jet A
fitted piece of jet from which hangs a
fringe outlines the half low neck of a
pretty bodice of white liberty satin. The
sleeves are from black chiffon, ruched at
two-inch intervals. And the result is a
becoming waist, which may be worn with
a suitable black or the white satin skirt
that many women find of much evening
service.
Black and white striped satin produce
the dashing bolero which forms the upper
portion of a theater waist. Girdles Of
cherry colored panne aud turquoise blue
velvet are worn at will. This model is a
slightly variation of the black and white
fancy current now, and never quite out.
There is a liking this season for a dis
tnct mote" in the bodice, just above the
belt line. A waist carefully designed, to
be worn with smol1egray cloth skirt,
shows combination of lighter gray sat
in, duh gray beads, and, for the mote"
narrow girdle effect from smolle-gray
and white velvet.
Perhaps the readiest way to vary full
dress evening waist is to change the color
of the knot of artificial flowers worn at
the left shoulder. One Of white peoples Is
suitable for the high light on a black
sequined costume. Another bouquet of
scarlet carnations serves instead of the
Whlte peoples on occasion.
SIMPLE DESIGNS.
Simplicity in the design of the gown is
evident in some of the most effective of
naidseason costumes. A cloth frock from
violet face-cloth, of the hue which COM
bines SO engagingly with turquoise blue.
is made with the inevitable train of the
afternoon dress, the current box plat al
CHI
bodice overlaps the skirt binding neatly
IN the style SO much approved after the
slipshod effects resulting from a careless
union of skirt and waist only half con-
cealed by belt.
The skirt and waist are trimmed In
princess fashion, with black gimp, which
twists here and there to form wheels.
from whose centers depend wee tassels,
This is revival of a mid-century fash
Ion.
Tassels then were .oftenest in a gay
color, contrasting with the gown, as
pink on green or blue on brown. Even
gold tassels were in fine vogue with satin
costumes.
Much of the effect from small tassels
as dress trimming depends upon their
being heavy enough to vibrate from their
own weight. A tassel of fine silk has not
body enough to do this. Hence the
knowing choose such ornaments when
made from heavy silk cord.
The tucked chemisette with this waist
is from shimmering turquoise blue lib
erty satin. The same material hem
stitched, forms a jaunty knot out from
under the lapels of the waist Consider
ing 1t apart from the skirt, notice how
like many of the silk waists is this one
of CLOTH
A New York merchant recently has
shown quantities of wash waists The
materials are largely organizes and their
stutfs, in white, pink and white and blue
and white. The white sort are combina-
lions of lace inserting and Hamburg en-
brCidery, closely resembling the prettiest
of those worn last season. The sleeves
all are long and pointed over the hands
Cuffs do not appear on the best grades
CT SKIRT waists. But they abound upon
all lesser varieties.
Collars on every new waist are higher
than last year There is something
slightly disturbing about the thought OF
starched collars, pointed high just be-
hind the ears, for warm weather; but we
may become accustomed to the idea.
STYLES IN CoIFFUREs.
The rapid transition of the hair from
knot In the middle of the head to a knot
at the top of the head is interesting
thing in coffures The hair Is now comb
ed straight up to the middle of the
pompadour; the back of the head, to be
stylish, must be as curved as the equa-
tor 1t is the most becoming hairdressing
to the greatest majority Of women
The pompadour, especially near the
ears, is no longer exaggerated and great
care must be taken that there is no dvls-
ion between the sweep of the hair In
front and at the back of the ears. In
other words, don't let your ear point the
way to a dividing line across the head.
The knot at the top of the head is very
small 1t may be either obong per-
fectly round, but the entirely round knot
is preferred
dresser winds them around In the shape
of saucer on the very top of the head.
The sides are very fiat and the center
bulges up.
With this hairdressng a woman needs
something to catch up the short hair at
the back and the jeweed brooch is neces-
sary il the hairs are very short; the new
and stylish thing is a snake or tortoise
shell, with a few prongs at either end.
The snake is not so definite as to be re-
pusive In truth, l knew girl who
wore one for week before she realized
it was intended to represent a snake
If any wave is made In the hair at all
1t must be exceedingly large, about three
inches apart and made with a large iron
twisted back and forwards in the hair.
Crimps are not tolerated. Ii a woman
must wear a soft fringe on her forehead
she may pull down a few stray curls