The Washington weekly post. (Washington, D.C.) 1878-1916, 1900-10-09

--.f4I SEASONS As surely as The one
.r.rrs us tic sweetness OF budding trees.
.H. other al. the glory Of autumnal color,
s.g..es are be- preparation on every
rt. and Questions % trousseaux I'll the
air gHls season makes 10 exception to
.ra rgl, In spite o. the unusual number
~ s.mmer weddings. October and NOyem-
l.e- are 90 have their full share ana the
t.ork o. preparation goes on apace.
The all-.mp0rtant gown. the one design
81 far the ceremony itself, Is subject %
certain lxed laws that do not change. ft
,.t and styIc vary as much as they will.
p. possible. 10 must be white In fact, 30
ether color ls a true bridal gown. for
while countless VOWS have been taken IN
rrryeI.ug gowns or those o. dark Six,
they represent an emergency rather than
custom Tradition has IL that the wifely
sat. must De entered upon In virgin
white 90 Jyplfy the purity OF the girls
soul when. for any reason, IL must be
Ignored. whatever best suits convenience
and circumstance IS substituted. DIi fssm
OBJ. standpoint OF fashion white only Is
correct for the girls wear cOlors being
reserved for WIDOWS, who have a prefer
,Hee for vlolets and srays. Handsome
satin and silk are always worn, but for
tH- time preference IS given 90 satin and
J5 chiffon. which make the most IDEAL
bridal garment one can conceive. Cut and
treatment follow much the general lines
't The season but a fixed regulation for
bids the smallest attempt at decollete
and the skirt must be as long as possible
ne train ample Seyen-gOred, fve-gored
and circular models are all worn, but
nothing is better for the heavy materials
iaan the fye-gored that flares freely at
She feet and Is finished with a graduate
circular founcc. Such a skirt fits TCll
and is essentially graceful Where lace
IS to be used IL becomes a foundation, but
is beautiful with only the addition Of full
Tuches Of liberty or mOusseline az the
tage and where IL joins the skirt There
l= a present demand for the charming Gia-
phanOuz materials as trimming for heavy
silks that is TO be commended from 5very
point Of view. The Fuches on the satin
are charming, yet simple in the extreme.
Lace Is, Of course, always worn; that is.
lace OF any real sort, either as fiOuncss
OF dTapery, but under no circumstances
must bit Of the imitation enter into the
gown, and | confess 10 deep-seated pref
,gence for handsome simplicity over any
Thing fussy or complicated. Chiffon
LOUNGES over silk are charming and are
lovely beyond a doubt but by all means
Jet the lines Of the long, sweeping skirt
remain intact. Lace that is priceless or
an heirloom is the only excuse for drap-
cry, in my judgment at least.
Suggestions as 60 the Blouse.
Bodies are preferably either blouse CT
IN bolero style. An exceedingly handsome
model includes a bolero Of point lace over
a deep draped bodice Of panne velvet,
with the yoke and high stock of tucked
chiffon with tinv appliques Of lace. IN
lined, and the long sleeves made with tae
upper portion OF satin Ike the skirt. lace
from the elbow down. with flare cuffs at
the wrists, and a puff of the chiffon be-
tween The .ace and silk serving 10 unite
the TWO. Another is a blouse of satin with
yoke ana deep belt Of the lace. There is
decided tendency toward transparent
Stocks Tor all indoor gowns and those of
lace ana chlHon are surely charming on
bridal gowns.
ChllIon gowns are for the most mart
tucked over both skirt and bodice. The
lovely soft material lends itself 10 the
treatment, and the result Is a billowy
Mhlteness that is singularly lovely worn
10y a girl bride Skirts are fall and laid
IN horizontal tucks two inches wide from,
me waist or yoke depth below TO the
lead OF the f1ounce, which is plisse. as
hui as II can be made, and finished WI h
toII outings. Beneath all this lowell
ness must be the foundation skirt of soft
fiik, hIted with care, and plain under
SKIRT OF chiffon TO veil il and preserve the
essential quality OF the material An
paques OF lace are used and are exceed
inEly handsome. but just such a skirt as
j have described is truly beautiful and
might well satisfy any bride
Tie chiffon bOdices combine lace. panne
velvet, and panEe. satin with the thinner
material n a way that very nearly de-
lies description. Tucks there must be,
hut beyond that there IS little law. one
q, the prettiest l have seen has a tiny
buiero with long, snug sleeves OF guipure
beneath. which is a draped girdle of parne
s~'iE with a full tucked bodice above.
the tuCks are perpendicular and tiny,
rEd yoke, sleeves, and stock are unlined
ndshe5 are much worn. and exceedingly
graceful. 4 charming novelty IS the use
az the chiffon with rounded ruche-hnished
ends. arranged 70 fan from the belt, be
meath the bolero 10 the edge II the train.
enc gown. sent from the other side. is
peculiarly novel and essentially chic. The
bacterial also makes the skirt. while the
o-aped girdle and sash are OF chiffon. TIE
latter is extremely fun and arranged la
i0E plaits AZ each side the fun front of
lace 10 give a bolerO effect, is taken back
over the shoulders, then passes under the
Eirdles and forms sash ends With all
these gowns, wells of tdlle will be worn,
held iu place by jeWeled pins or natural
flowers as preferred. Lace wells are beau
tilul, as a matter of course, bat they are
somewhat less light and dainty In effec,
than the tule, ana for that reason are
often discarded even when their cost Is
not stumbling block The tender, flmy
quality OF the tuile is not readily outdone,
and 1t has me added merit of yelling
without coucealiis the gown. Suede
gloves OF the exact shade oi the gown
and slippers Of the material. II II be silk
or satin. satin, with chiffon trimming. If
Clifton makes the gown, are the correct
gcct ssories. Jewels are little worn. A
pendent or pin for the veil in pears or
diamonds that Is the gilt Of the groom
az some heirloom, is apt 70 make the only
ornament
The G0ins-away Gown.
The golng-away gown, with US Is as
near IKE any other tailored suit as possi-
be- English brides are more reckless or
more Indifferent 10 criticism, and choose
delicate cOlors that at once suggest the
bride. hut American girls prefer quieter
costumes This year browns and tans Of
tT sorts. ~ well as rich srays. are muah
liked " t4e trip Is 20 be- long one
.H-yot or some rough-hEished cloth il
BEST With 90 or over n may be worn a
l8f loose travelling coat or The coat OF
Tile suit alone, as weather and conditions
may decide 4 becoming turLan or flat
trimmed hat on the order OF the short
backed sailor Il good. A charming one Of
Ihe latter sort exhibited this week Is I'm
brown felt with Ii simple band ~ velvet
f.r width Of the crown and pJmp0ns Of
C1rlle feathers Of varying shades OF
Hf1Hl-Jhe feathers used Ia this way be-
!EF novelty 0f the autumn,
Ii abe journey b 10 Doc a short ona.
saCoth-tu. led cloth may be- used Auv