davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-23
Women of Leisure.

"Are We to see the complete passing
away of women of leisure?" asks the ed.
itor of the Century There are mo-
ments when one asks himself that ques-
ton with genuine apprehension; and the
moments are likely to be most frequent
during the holiday months, when nature
herself appears to insist that the strained
cords of life shall be little loosened. To be
a man of leisure has always according to
the laws of our national code, involved
latent reproach; but so powerful is the in
fuence of the spirit of the times among US
that to be a woman of leisure may soon
seem almost as bad. The women who
work in one way or another. because they
must work to live, are Joined in yearly
greater numbers by women who work be-
cause they choose to work in order to be
independent. Outside of this, the clubs
and societies that promote literary patri-
otto, philanthropic activities in those who
have no professional labors, and the spell
Of outdoor life and its vigorous sports,
over women who without these things
would be quite idle, have SO wrought upon
feminine existence that the type of women
who meets and greets you in her quiet
drawing room as one who has long days of
repose behind her, and looks calmly for
ward to others of the same tenor. is be-
coming rare to the point of impressing one
as an exotic.
1T is unthinkable that anyone should
seriously wish to pick a quarrel at this
late day with the new quickening inter-
ests of women's lives. The subject has
passed beyond the province of discussion
Nevertheless, it is an assured fact that if
We were to have only busy women in the
future, and women hurried and harried
the whole of life would be incopl-
parably the poorer for us. Somewhere in
the stress and strain of endeavor and
advance there must be stopping places
where one may rest and dream a little;
centres there must be of some sort where
one may momentarily drop out from the
moving column, and. free of the noise and
dust, feel ones soul. There must be
pause now and then. There must be in
tervals, however few and far between, for
the deeper, stiller inhalations, that bring
renewal and refreshment, and enable one
to start again, and start straight Those
centres, those intervals, it has always
been the primary and essential function
of women to render possible; and it must
ever be. 1t belongs TO them alone TO
perform that function, and If they omit
TO do so there is nothing to make coed
the loss"
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-23

One Of the most successful models Of
the day comes from Lapeniere's establish
ment, and is much admired for various
novelties and new variations of long-favor
ed forms. The skirt of pale tan cloth is
of the clinging sort. and closing invisibly
at the back with fly.
The plainness of the skirt is most eff
fectively relieved by an incrustated piece
of heavy tan guipure lace, the meshes
OF which are entwined with fine geld
thread A narrow band of gold braid
studded with turquoise covers the edge
of the appliqued lace. Underneath the
guipure the cloth is cut away showing
the foundation skirt of cream colored
silk, which is made independently of the
skirt, being Joined to il only in the
waistband and finishing at the hem with
a deep pleating of the same silk.
The bodice is as novel as it is at
tractive in its construction. 1t has a
tight foundation of ream-colored silk
closing in front and covered with a
blouse of tan mousseline de sole striped
diagonally with narrow bands of tan
panne velvet. Over this falls curious
little bolero of tan guipure embellished
with gold thread like the applique in the
skirt and edged in a like manner with
turquoise studded gold braid. Over this
Is second bolero of tan cloth trimmed
with narrow bands of tan panne velvet
and tiny turquoise studded gold buttons.
The bell elbow sleeves of cloth are lined
with cream-colored silk, and are elonga-
ted by huge puffs of tan mousseline de
sole and cuff of the same fabric finish
ing with pleated ruffle over the wrists.
The high stock collar is of tan mousse
line and closes under the chin with full
bow of the same fabric.
FELIX TOURNEY.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-23

Persons who have never kept house on
a canal boat-and statistics reveal the
fact that there are a great many people
who have not-have little idea of the de-
tails, the dignity and the social status
to which canal boat wife lends herself,
and is even exalted. This demonstrates
that one-half of the world knows little of
the other half. Now, there are canal
boats and there are river boats, and a
canal boat woman would no more associ-
ate with river boat woman than a but
terfy would travel with a grasshopper
Captain Blank. whose boat has nayigat-
ed the Erie Canal for the last twenty
years, has wife who knows all about
life on the raging canal, and she likes it,
Now and then between trips the boats
put up in Coenties Slip, and then her
house seems much like a small apart
ment, and she goes shopping just like any
other New York woman, or Ikea summer
sojourner in a houseboat. says the New
York Tribune" She has a calling list
and she is ready every afternoon for call
ers. When you visit her she will apollo
gize for one fly that dares to disport
himself familiarity about her apartment
This is calculated to call your attention
to her housekeeping. and to challenge you
TO ma one Speck OF aust anywhere. Pill
low shams are on the stateroom bunk,
and the kitchen stove shines like a re-
fector. Her house is just as clean out
side as in.
Il have lived in this boat for over
twenty years. she said to caller the
other day. Yesterday l went uptown to
see my sister. She lives in fiat in Har-
lem. | wouldn't live in Harlem fiat for
anything in the world. and / am always
SO glad to get back home after l have
been to see her.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-23

PARIS. Sept. 10.-Fall styles are now
fully established. and to the surprise of
everyone who has watched for the down
fall of old favorites which have held
public approval for several seas ms,
there is but slight If any variation from
present ferns and present colors. Sheath
skirts which have been warily made for
advance fall wear because there was no
indication of other models, now prove
again to be at the height Of fashion.
They are bell-shaped with considerable
flare and touching the ground all around
with a tendency to a slight dip at the
back in spite of the cry for shorter
lengths which appertain alone to the
regulation tailormade walking skirt of
double-faced cloth The fear of draper-
les may be set aside as but few models,
and those made foryery slender figures
only, show the slightest hint at draper
les. and that is in the form of the
straightest and scantiest of tunics The
very smooth lines OF the new skirts are
broken by cordings. pleatings, and
stitching or any device introduced for
the mere purpose of preventing a wom-
an from refusing her new dress because
it looks too much like the old enc.
Circular ruffies are q prominent mode of
decoration for the plain skirts, as they lend
more than any other garniture, that jaunty
fare around the ankles which character
ICES the new gowns. These founces are as
well adapted to s lks and yelvets as TO
cloths, and in most cases are decorated
with rows of stitchings. Not all skirts are
self-trimmed; some have garnitures of diff
ferent material and color matching the
bodice trimming, as is shown on a charm
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-23

General Tschengki-Tong gives some
interesting information about Chinese
ideas of female beauty in a book he has
just published.
In Europe he says. "the preference
is for large eyes, fair hair, and Greek
nose In China, on the contrary, we only
admire small eyes. smooth black hair,
and dainty snub noses. In both eoun-
tries. however, teeth white as pearls and
small hands and feet are regarded as
beauties. The Chinese poet says of his
muse that her beautifully outlined and
narrow eyebrows remind him of the sill
houette of distant mountains; that her
eyes are as clear as a lake in autumn.
and that her lips resemble the sunrise
in the richness of their color.
"A Chinese lady of today arranges her
hair very simply and never dreams of
building it up, as formerly, over tur-
retlike wire frame. The ladies of the
upper class have adopted a style OF ar
ranging the hair similar to that in
Greece, but they never crisp or curl it.
Curls. indeed. have never been fashion
abel in China and hair which curls
naturally Is hardly ever seen. The CHG
non is kept in place by broad gold or
silver pin. which is curved In the mid
die, and around IL are sometimes placed
as ornaments tendrils of various small
flowers.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-23
Late Autumn Gown BY Laferierre.

ing gown for young lady. The skirt of
grey cloth is absolutely close-fitting with
out folds, even at the back, and hangs with
a careless grace that bespeaks the master
hand of the couturier. II is very long and
faring at the hem and has a narrow bias
band of darker grey cloth stiffened and
blind stitched two inches above the hem
and surmounted by a row Of narrow silver
braid, which Is used as much as gold braid
on the gowns and millinery of the season.
The bodice of grey cloth has short jack
ct with double revers and collar of the
darker and lighter grey cloth decorated
with silver braid. The hat also matches
the costume, being Of the darker grey ma
terial with trimmings OF light grey cloth
and long grey plume attached, with a huge
square buckle of cut steel bent into a semi
circle to adapt it to the trimming
Among the black costumes which ere
invariably worn with a dash of color sutie-
where about the gown, there is a a)st
liberal sprinkling of all shades of grey, TIN,
brown, and red. though the new garing
shades of the latter "groseille" or cur
rant, and corail rarely compose the whole
costume, but are used for Jackets or trim
ming and for millinery purposes. In the
latter field the black and white combina-
ton is profusely used, though 1t seems
10 have fallen into temporary retirement
for the makeup of gowns
Much variation is evident in the
sleeves. While many models show the
arm as closely encased as the hips and
covered to beyond the wrist, others
again are deliberately garnished. The half
sleeve has survived the summer, especially
for home wear, but 1t is invariably length
ened below the elbow by some diaphanous
material, sometimes completing with a fall
of lace which almost covers the hand.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-23
women Honored by FRANCE.

Forty-one women have received the
French decoration of the ribbon OF the
Legion of Honor. Sarah Bernhard, the
actress. is the latest to win the much
coveted prize and she is the first actress
who was ever permitted to wear it. OF
the total number thirty-one have been
decorated for special service in connection
with hospital or ambulance work, one was
an artist, one an arehaeologist and three
were awarded for heroism in war. Rosa
Bonheur was the artist. and she received
the distinction in 1858 as a result of the
award by the jury of the grand 2rtx foL
her picture, THE Horse Fair" now known
far and wide.
The Emperor did not approve OF the Les
gion OF Honor being conferred upon a
woman. and it was not until 1S65--;twelve
years after-that she actually received 1t.
In 1894 she became an officer Of the order.
Juliet Dodu, who was condemned to la
shot by the Germans during the Franco
German war for refusing to telegraph a
message, was another. She was released
by the order of Prince Frederick Charles
and received both the cross of the legion
and the military medal.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-23
A TURKISH Ts-.L-TALE.
She Makes Open Confession as to Her
Charms.

Here is boudoir confession from Mod
ern Society Of a Turkish woman on the
art of makeup as practiced in the Sultans
dominions:
We Turkish women of good society are
actual slaves to making up; not by choice.
but by obligatory etiquette. We do not
consider our toilet complete without an
abundant layer of powder, paint, or other
pigments. Those imported by the French
are becoming more and more in vogue,
although we realize that our compilations
are seriously damaged by them. But after
being married We do not care so much.
Our only aim is to appear well and smart
in public
1t is an undeniable fact that we ORR
entails possess the secret of treating the
hair. and in most houses we have special
slaves who are kept for that purpose
Unfortunately. during the last few years
we have developed prediction for gol-
den locks. and we are eager to buy in
furious hair dyes sent from Paris instead
OF keeping to our own harmless remedies
Since it is a disgrace and unseemly for
US to grow gray, no sooner do the first
few white hairs make their appearance
than we use preparation called knah
probably an extract from the kina tree.)
1t is yellow powder which, after having
been applied to the hair, turns it to
deep red Titan shade. It possesses the
excellent property of making the hair
grow. We also know the effect OF oxygen
and the still less harmless bicarbonate of
soda, which, dissolved in water. bleaches
the hair.
THE treatment OF eyebrows and eye
lashes requires great care, and, far from
leaving ugly scars or marks, we possess
the means of beausifying them. At night,
before going to bel, we use a mixture
known as 'rastic' ,another form of knah).
Mixed with a few drops OF hot water, 1t
has the effect of increasing the eyebrows
and lashes, and giving them darker hue
In the daytime We make use OF the cele-
brated 'surmek,' which gives to the eye
that beautiful soft Oriental expression. 1t
is shiny chemical, not unlike black lead.
1t is pounded to a fine powder and sent
in tiny bags from Mecca, the only place
where the genuine Kind is to be obtained
When applied to the lids it has a most
delicious, cooling sensation. IL only known
in Europe it would find great patronage
with Western ladies'"
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-23

An article in a Sydney paper discusses
the relative proportion of men to women
in the colonies of oceania. 1t is true that
the disparity OF numbers is not so great
now as it was and the tendency is toward
equalization. Yet even in South Australia
there are only eighth Beatrices for
every hundred Benedicts, and this is the
most highly favored colony. In such colo
mics as Western Australia, where the
gold comes from" there are only fifty
nine spinsters for every hundred bache-
lors; in Queensland the percentage of un-
married females TO unmarried males is So,
and in New South Wales rs. New South
Wales and Victoria can take the largest
of female emigrants,~ for the
excess OF unmarried men is 80, $50 in the
former colony and 70, 46S In the latter. In
Tasmania only s,S75 heroines are required,
but New Zealand requires 1857 fer
equality of the sexes.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-23
The Attractive rwo-step.

Just why the two-step and waltz have
taken such hold upon the devotees OF
dancing it is hard to say, but certain IT
is that everyone is unwilling to give up
these two, and the coming winter will see
them danced more frequently than ever.
Terpsichorcan artists seem - think that
1t is because of the ease of execution in
the. two-step and it's adaptation to the
most popular marches that makes it such
favorite, while the dreamy, gliding mo-
ton of the waltz possesses such rare and
never ending charms that it will only die
out with the death of the world itself.
For the coming winter, If you are to
take part in any colonial costume balls,
it would be we'll to be somewhat versed
In the movements of the minuet, advises
the Philadelphia Times The graces
and dignity of this ancient favorite can
not be gained in a short evening, and one
awkward participant is enough to spoil
the entire tableau. There promise to be
many of these colonial affairs this win
ter, so to be ready for them you would
better begin at once.
Then. worst of ALL society is going to
attempt the revival of the "fve-step."
This. briefly described. is a combination
and an awkward one at that-of every
other step on earth. There is the glide of
the waltz. the hop of the two-step, and the
lurch of the schotusche. 1t is danced to
a slow march time. and the mantle
women. of course, always know all about
it-starts off brayely enough. After tear
ing several layers of lace founces and
crushing the tips of pair of dainty patent
feathers, at all of which she smiles and
says Certainly" TO his beg pardon" the
twain are very apt to give up in polite
despair and go prancing off into the more
familiar two-step.
Among the present youth-those who will
be our society men in a few more years
even the waltz has lost caste, and what
they are pleased to call such is merely an
other of the innumerable two-step adapta-
tons. The two-step is king, and he prom
Uses to keep his crown for many a year to
come.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-23

At Syracuse, Y. Y, Miss Charlotte
NJ. Kinney enjoys the reputation of be-
ing one OF the best judges of horses FOR
miles around, and she is making a good
living as dealer in these animals. All
the horsemen of the State from New
York to Buffalo know her. They treat
her well and are always ready to do
her good turn when the opportunity
offers.
In spite Of the business in which Miss
Kinney is engaged, she is not in tine
least a new woman" Hcr far hair
and blue eyes and feminine ways GU tie
astonish people when they get thi' first
gimps of that woman who sells horses,
you know"
1t was through a previous trend of
events that Miss KINNEY first GIifted
into selling horses. Her girlhood was
spent on her fathers farm at James,
vile, seven miles out of Syracuse Here
as she grew up she learned to know and
love good horses, though at the time
she never dreamed of turning that
knowledge to any commercial account
There were many children in the family
at the rambling old farrnhous and money
was not plentiful, So when commercial
traveller, friend of her brothers, one
time idcshihBiy suggested 10 MISS Kinney
that she would make a good saleswoman
and half jestingly offered to get her a
position on the road with the grocery
house he represented, she promptly took
him at his word. She got the position and
sold groceries for year.
well-known wagon company heard of
her, and, realizing that her present pat
rons would also need wagons, it finally in
duced her to give up groceries for its line.
But the people to whom she sold wagons
got into the way of asking her where they
could get horses and she soon found her
self supplying them. She finally worked
up such a trade in horses that year ago
she determined to devote herself exclu-
sively to 1t and gave up the wagons. Now
she is kept busy negotiating her sales.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-23
A Simple sachet.

A sachet of long lasting fragrance can
be made to initiate the scent of verbenas
by saving the peels of lemons that come
into the household and mixing them with
carawuy seeds.
Take half an ounce of the powdered
seed and half a pound of the powdered
lemon peel. The peelings can be ground
in an ordinary kitchen coffee mill. Mix
the two powders well together and pour
over ii all mixture of one and one-half
drains of oil of bergamot This makes
dainty powder for sachets to use in the
bureau drawers, linen closets, hat boxes,
handkerchief cases, etc. 1t Is called the
verbena sachet.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-23
Queen Christmas Wealth.

Queen Christina of Spain is in the
habit of sending a confidential messen-
ger all the way from Madrid to London
for the purpose of depositing he wealth,
which she keeps in the Bank of England.
Although Queen Christina is entitled to
draw from the Spanish treasury s2Oe 600
a year, she has not. owing to the strait
ened circumstances of Spain, drawn n
cent of this money.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-23
First Womnn Editor.

According to the Hartford courant,"
that paper In 1777 was owned and edited
and managed by a woman. whose name
comes down to modern days as the Wild
ow Watson She had exclusive charge"
OF the journal. After a couple of years
Mrs. Watson married leading citizen Of
Hartford, and after that date she no doubt
let him advise and assist in the conduct OF
the paper. But she holds the record for
the first woman editor in the country.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-23

Mr. SappeighI wouldn't marry that
Miss Gabby. She is terribly set in her
ways.
MIR. Softeigh-Is that so?
Mr.. Sappeigh--Yes, indeed. Why. she
has refused me nine times.-Baltimore
American.
The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-09-23

Queen Victoria has travelled little abroad
in the course of her long life. She has
never been in Russia, Denmark, Austria.
Norway Sweden, Greece, or Spain. Nor
has she ever visited any of her colonies
or any part OF America, Asia. or Africa.
The St. Johns herald., 1900-06-23
!? 1az V#<A N - sBksa. :ssxI The ldeas freaCh Tonit
 FOR BODY AND BRAIN
 Since Hsa Endorsed y Faun immediate lasting efficacious agreeable

I do not find board and lodging particularly high in Paris, certain fy not higher than al previous ex- position here. have pension Groom and board) at $3 per day.
 The house has electric lights, elevator and steam heat. The steam heat may seem superAuous in the United States at this season, but it is cold in Paris and will be. off and on, until July. l have taken pains to investigste' and I know that any one. ithlnatience to search, and provided he is able to speak French little. will find livnig not much more expensive than in the larger cities of the United States. There is abundant room. The ho- teis in certan localities are crowded. but others are not half full and signs departments and Rooms to Rent" are seen everywhere.
The St. Johns herald., 1900-06-23
Bz.CaBtnet o@eer's Wife Who Takes Great Paias tO Have Him
 Properly DResaed.

The wife of man who served with distinction as a ca binet officer during @ recent administration entered tailor shop near Fifth avenue week ago. says the New York Sun. and said to the proprietor:
 "l am Mrs. So-and-so. and don't sup pose that women come into your shop very often." ,-
 "A good many women help their hus- bands to select their clothes" said the proprietor.
 Well. am glad to hear that" said the woman. "I have bought my hus- bands clothes for him ever since we were married. and if did not look out for them he would not have any clothes. He never thinks of them. Didn't even when he was in Washington. though he was always properly dressed. Now l want some spring clothes Tor my husband. l will select the samples for three suits and will tell you just how to make them. When my husband comes to get measured don't pay any attention to his orders about the clothes if he gives any. Ifhe orders his own clothes he would not be suited anyway"
 The proprietor found that this wom- an knew as much as the average man about mems clothes. and he accepted her directions. On the following day wien her husband came in the propri- etor recognized him from his pictures and said:
 "Mr. So-and-so. your wife selected goods for three suits of clothes for you yesterday. and if you will step back ] will show you the patterns"
 Young man." said the ex-cabinet of ficer. 'I would not dare to interfere with my wife's selections. Just take my measure as quickly as you can and make the clothes as directed"
 After the measurements had been made the ex-cabinet minister hurried out without asking what style of suits had been ordered for him.