davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-11-11

at intervals with curvinR scroll ends. which add
much IN the beauty Of the decoration. Cht1on
plaiunRS. with ruched edges. form the abundant
frou-frou around the feet. attached 1" the
taIeta foundation Of course.
A very telling point in the hnish OF all the
crepe de chine gowns i the openwork sutch.
which joins all the seams and hens as wei II
they are used. \ pretty bodice i maze ny
tIcking the material around the waist IN YER
teal lines to the depth Of a corsHlei. and IN
sorting the gold lace around the body In the
fulness above. The lace forms the sieev"
band and the decollett neck IL finished with
plated tulle caught down with n beading
through which ribbon Is rim. This i shown
in one ~ the Illustrations. and the usual width
OF this irish Is about two inches. \ sln.''''r
gown. In white crepe de chine, is mad" WIN u
circular founce finely tucked around IN" heil''
and cut in wide points a. The Top. where " -
outlined with n wide baud Of euipuro extend
ing also up either side Of the front The tucked
bodice is finished around the decollete neck
with the lace In pointed bertha effect, and the
tulle plating flls in above.
one of the evening gowns In the cut shows
a wide tucked ilounCc aud lace applique deco
ration. The material j. chiffon, made over
an under dress Of the same fabric on n tafeta
foundation. An OIu-tlhl" MODE - shoNH III
the second model. which il carried out in MORE
Orocade. with a panne velvet t0blier front.
pannc also forms the chemisette vest with a
plating Of chiffon above and the fohu Is Of
ecru lace. The next costume Is of satin.
trimmed with lace and chiffon frillS. and
artificial flowers are the finish at the neck.
Flowers are a distinct feature of the new
evening gowns. aud are used simply IN a
bunch on one shoulder. or NOR . deliberately
for skirt decoration. For the latter purpose
small flowers are most desirable. little punches
OF small buttonroses being especially effective
on tulle gowns. Tlc use of black velvet rib
bon is shown on a gown Of white crepe de chine.
where it is threaded through the lace.
A youthful gown is made OF spotted lace
net trimmed with lace and ruches Of the same
net. Tule showered with silver is another
pretty material for this model especially in
the palest pink over rose pink satin. Entwined
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-11-11

Of the common impression that only Americans
and other foreigners spend money enough
for their dresses To pay The prices asked by
the French modiStcs. Parisians pay them
much more willingly and frequently. The
women who are thought to be the leaders Of
fashion. the wives of wealthy bankers, actresses
with large sums AT their CO mmand. and women
who are wealthy without having husbands or
having been on the stage. all pay regularly for
their costumes sums that would astonish
any but the richest English women or Ameri-
cans. To women Of this very varied Partisan
class, which includes Duchesses As well az
singers Of coCrlc,s in music halls, there IL
nothing unusual in paying 400 for a dress
or 500 for n silk Ictticact. For an orera cloak
$500 is not considered eXtortionate. and for Q
nightgown there is thought to be nothing ex-
cessive in siCO as n rice.
These sums, asked by the most fashionable
Paris dressmakers. mean. Of course. immense
profit to them, although II Is said that the
average profit Is not more than Is per cent.
Some Of the famous dressmakers pretend to
make no more than = Fer cent. and II Ia said
that the average Is not more than 10. This IL.
Of course. difficult to believe when the cost OF
materials is taken into consideration and one
remembers that The most expensive item in
the making Of n gown or anything else for
woman's wear l. the taste of its designer. More
is paid for that feature than for anything else.
for 1t alone cannot Re duplicated. while the
rarest materials can usually be found IL enough
be paid for them. Nothing, however. can take
the place of the genius In fashions.
The cost Of the labor of making up n dress
which sells for $500 is said to be only $40. and
the balance includes the profit OF the proprietor,
the cost Of the material and every other Incl
dental expense At least 500 is thought to be
the share allotted TO the designer for his unique
qualities. Then there is the cost Of the main
tenance Of the expensive establishments con-
sidered necessary to-day. Not only are tho
rents in this particular quarter Of Paris high.
but the decoration and general style OF the
rooms OF n fashionable dressmakcr must now
be- little short Of magnificent. He must have
a polite. well-dressed. capable stan Of assistants
and they are thought to represent $3.50 on the
cost OF the dress.
Interest on the capital invested and out
standing debts will exhaust $40 more. and for
bad debts. which are more frequent in these
establishments than the wealth Of their patrons
would lead anybody to suppose. the sum Of SO
is allowed With $40 for material. the total
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-11-11

festoons Of tulle caught at intervals with
r~osettes Of silk in two shades Of pink are the
pretty skirt trimming directly at the hem.
and again we have the dainty little chemisette
made OF SHRED pink chiffon. threaded through
with pink baby ribbons.
Among the evening wraps which are espe-
cially elaborate this season. the long coat OF
tucked black satin or tafieta is perhaps me most
desirable. and here is a model with a yokeo oil Jet
ted lace. The whole coat is lined with whi'e
satin AID white chiffon ~rosettes and long SCARF
ends are at the neck. Cream white lace may
be used for the yoke II preferred. Black cloth
and the light shades OF tan and gray are also
very stylish for the evening coat, while some
very attractive-looktag wraIs are made OF
zibeliue In light colors Almost any material.
II 1t is light and effective in color. can be utllzed
In an evening wrap, and You can have a long
cape. a three-quarter cape or a ooat OF eitheF
length and still be in the height OF fashion.
pretty gown FOR dem!-dress occasions
Is made Of pale gray satin-inished Hthe'a'
trimmed oil the skirt with three stitched oaio'
and some fine tucks around the hips Inc
bodice shows one Of the fashionable wide COL
lars of Irish lace, with three ~rosettes OF black
tulle and a gold ornament in the centre poid
| tIssue forms the waistcoat with an inner vest
OF DAl6 pllC IdlUts "iA''h 'fNA'
of tucked white mousseline. Insertions "i
lace threaded on the edge with one row OF
blaok velvet ribbon are one Of tho effective
trimmings for crepe de chine and taheia gowns
In Iioht colors. ace insertion threaded
uith silver Is In evidence a one 81 the TRIM
innings for white crepe de chine used IN bands
between groups Of tucks. and a pretty contrast
ia made with a colored panne sash and bow
on the bodice. A soft scarf Of colored chiffon
Il sometimes threaded through vide bands
Of lace for skirt trimming. and tied ut one
side In a bow.
Dismal prophecies as to the continued popu-
| larity Of the separate waists appear from time
To time, but a. yet they have not been fulfilled
| and the blouse goes ON more triumphant than
ever. embracing NIL III" latest faucies in deccra-
| ton. The low-ncckcd model shown i of orHp.
| de chine and lace Insertion, and may be also
prettily carried out in chiffon or ~iouisine six,
Another dressy model for lace or jctted net
shows a draprd belt Of tanria eilk with a Knot
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-11-11

la PaiS is the most attractive and expensive.
street in il.
Some Of the largest Of the Establishment
devoted 10 the manufacture Of woiuon's lux
urious dress employ ~ many A. $50 women
ranging from the head saleswoman down to
the little girl who holds the pins for the filters.
The establishment in this part of Paris that
cater 10 women viii, money and taste all over
the world are different from any existing here.
they are not Ike our rrivat" dress maker~'
establishments nor YET like the department
stores. They are something t"twern the two.
The bcsl-known houses are ahlo TO supply n
woman with everything TO bc worn from the
finest linen 10 an opera cloak. and yet they are
more like the private dres>makcr'S in New
York than the department stores. Few places
Of the more exclusive and expensive kind in
New York make any atiemp' 10 provide women
with anything more than their dresses, al
though the be-t-known Paris shops Of the kind
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-11-11

panne and variopsly manipulate a. to shape
pies 1yer'Snr'n ns zach ,v G.heE bs, u mssd fs1i.I and
a large bow Of soft ribbon caught, down WIN u
buckle directly 10 the centre i the thinning
felt pieces are ali faced with cloth or velvet they
sepa rate enough tn he effective, and o little hnno
arranged at one side raises the hat rom me
head Just enough 10 give II u Jnlnty ar. tlaIs'
or rather ~tUrban~. are made entirely OF i%en!her-i
ana the lmpeyan breasts on the velvet ana
cloth hats are also very stylish.
Something UNIQUE In the way Of q dress TRIM
Mug j. made OF cloth in the pale biscuit shade.
cm in Grrcian and other odd conventional
d signs in two nr thron din rent widths. the
narrow ones ST he'd on the " dr., giving a
raised effect.
III, ribbons this season are charmirgly varied
in lowered. striped and spotted designs. the
pannettc ribbons being especially soft and rich'
Cloth lace. or m applique trimming OF cram
cloth finished around the edges with n small
white silk cord. is one Of the popular decora-
tons for gowns. and rover' vi the fancy COATS.
Girdle belts made of ribbon are one OF the
novelties in the shops. They are wide. pointed
in front. and made on n boncd foundation to
keen them in shape. Tiny little gold knob
biIttona fnsten the plaits. laid in the ribbon in
vertical lines,
Gold cloth made with = design in the weaving
is one of the latest novelties.
Reltirg Of paune velvet polka dotted with
white and rdsed with gold cord serves a good
purpose with flannel waists worn with tailor
made ~Eirts. but thci ranne or the spots should
match the waist IN color
4 popular garnitHrc for gowns and opera
cloaks j. made Of chiffon to represent flowers
attached 20 embroidered stems, Niolets are not
too complicated for this branch Of industry.
and they are really very natural in colcring
and effect IaTota silk is also used for various
kinds of flowers for evening gowns
White saith. seems to be the popular coat
lining for both short fancy coats and long
garments for evening or day wear.
one Of the latest varieties Of hat pins Is an
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-11-11

the back with Il bow and long ends 81 black
sleeves to the elbow, where they end in n dainty
lace flounce. \ ruching of tllle with lace and
A bunch Of apple blossoms at one side complete
The low-cul bodice
A. for evening sleeves they ar" short, long
and Of elbow l'ngth. whichever suI.s yuur
fancy, bat quite iran parent of "our~" For
the short sleeve q band ul velvet or embroidery
extending over 40" shoulder, - the usual aC-
COMMANDMENT. A. the ~.lccvoi~ simply -rmblauce
OF ono and not enough to hold ihc undic' n place
4 SOFT fciu or lln" lorthu drapyd low ul he
shoulder i the only appearance" Of a sleeve in
some OF the evening gown, bat ms j. caught
Ia an under cap ~arrIugcuoul which forms the
band around The arm
Very gorgeous are >ouc Of III" Jet -pangled
black net gowns mad" over ivory rlact, and
finished around the feet with inlumcrablc
rurla~ of ivory white chiffon edged with black
baby ribbon velvet \ nohu al chiffon with
the same iriil~ i, the nui-I around ,hc shoulders.
velvet bow
Tie soft, hin Cr6pcS de ~clipc,iu white or colors.
| are the mos attractive materials for evening
gov NJ, as they lend themselves - we'll to the
decorations Of lace. gold and various modes
Of tucking On" very elegant costume in
ivory white crAir de chine il trimmed elabo-
| rarcly with untarni,hahle gold lace. So, in
two wide Uauds around the SKIRT. The bands
aac not con,tnuoas. however. but are broken
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-11-11

with q culi buckle ia ~" centre. Combinations
Of fur aud velro, are yori good style. aud while
II - The most uubrcowllE al all the furs
ermine l. added 60 the lit for this style 81 hat.
White glacc silk i used for tucked or shirred
crowns In -ome of the sabl" hats. and there j.
the rich and effective usa uf lace with fur
The velvet toques wIth flowers ~ one side.
are eX'rcn.cl, pretty, hut the one great poin,
In making a selection j. to choose the SHAPE
which has dimensions in proportion to yonr
height, The outline of n short woman with
an extremely broad 10 Ne on her head Is almost
lu1icrous.
The new beaver ieits In combination with
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-11-11

cn'' %! Il s@1 gown would be $40. leaving q
cicar Iroft Of sp. Tina, il abou, Is per cent /,
"id most drc~>inaker, are said to earn no more.
IN view OF Their great outlay and the amount Of
rl~k they take in fitting w aud conducting such
expensive establishments. at smaller prices
th"'c would be little or no opportunity for
prom I" make their enterprise worth while.
~ VIII b" seen from these figures that there
l. some truth in the belief that the persons
Who buy AZ The most expensive places pay for
IN" rent. the decorations and the other costly
feIt urp-.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-11-11

front 4, the prevailing -tyir for both young
and middlc-agcd women With slender figures.
but there il greater variety perhaps in the
evening bodice than any other. The pointed
waist Of our grandmoiherS' time is one OF the
variations, but II il modelledou the new straight
corset with quite different lines. The En-
pire gown with a broad Empire band Of EN-
broidered gold cloth or gold lace studded with
jewels beneath the arms is another very evil
dent feature of evening dress. 4 band OF the
gold extends around The arms. forming a sort
Of sleeve which leaves the shoulders bare.
Narrow cross bands extend over the Shout
ders and neck 10 keep the gown in place. and a
dainty fril OF lace edgest the sleeve band around
the arm. With the pointed bodice the gathered
skirt with a tablicr front of lace or velvet
sometimes appears as a gentle hint OF what
the future may have in store for Us.
Despite the fact that many Empire gowns
are seen among the imported costumes they
do not lead. as the Empire shapes do among
the coats and wraps. especially those for even
ing wear. Princess effects are very much
liked both for evening and day gowns, and a
very short boloro gives tho Empire style to the
costume without the superfuous fulness around
the waist. The favorite materials for these
costumes are the Louis XIV. brocades. crepe
finished satins. and satin faced taIetas. yet
semi-transparent fabrics are often used. India
crepes and silk gauzes are especially pretty
made over the craped satin. II Is also a foun-
dstion dress for lace and various kinds OF net.
With the exception Of lace embroidery Is the
most conspicuous feature of surface decoration
on the elaborate evening dresses. as it has
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-11-11

witt black velvet and flowers are one OF the
new TEXTURES Of millinery.
Demands for ~" new art ieWelry seem TO
b" increasing. The gold IL tinted to harmonic
with Whatever jewels are used. so the effect Of
color i charming Belt buckles are especially
desirable. but Of course there is the u,usl va
riety Of brooche, and trinkets.
Russian ribbon betting is very much worn
since IL not only e~ncircles the waist but the
collar band IS well.
Handsome buckles in all sizes and kinda
are very much used for belts. for fastening
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-11-11

side and finished with fine gold cord on the
other edges. Gold trim the yoke and bands
VI black velvet ribbon crossing the front foini
n rosettr at one side with gold tipped ends.
The modi.h touch Of gold il everywhere
among The blouse waists and there l. no NM,
TO the variety Of tuching and E'ns'iiciiihg
Vandyked edges finished with rows of stitching
IN a contrasting color are a pretty finish down
either siie OF the front and possibly around
the yoke Stitched bnrd~ of cream cIotl.
are another stylish iini-h on the SILK wdi-''.
but usually som" fancy design il carried ont
in the stitching Tn" small eold and silver
knob buttons make IN effective thinning
for straps across the vest. tab ends ana u"
little inner vests so much u1"d \ white silk
blouse run MI over with lines Of finest gold cord
ard finished with a touch Of black panne at
the neck and bel, l. very striking Then again
you see u colored silk hlpus" trimmed with
stitched -lrappinG- of Write six or white sir
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-11-11

considered. with ali that i light and nuny
In appearance. and anything which Is what
might be termed heavy and gorgeous In deco
ration should be carefully stunned. a. there
should he a wide line between the matrons
and d@butante's evening gowns
The round bodice with u lightly dropping
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-11-11
PARIS DRESSMAKING PROFITS.
They Are Said to BE Below IS Per Cent. In
SPITE OF High Prices.

The Paris dressmakinC district is practically
confined to the irregular area bounded by the
Boulevard Haussmann. the Rue de Richelieu.
the Rue de Rivoli and the Rue Royale. Every
American who is familiar with the shops Of
this neighborhood knows that the Rue de
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-11-11

recently assumed many new forms. by varied
kinds Of applications. Flowers are made Of
chiffon and silk and applied 10 the material with
stitches Of silk and gold thread. and beautiful
designs are wrought out with gold or silver
and silk in combination. and more unusual than
all the rest Is the use of oretonue flowers cut
out and applied 10 elegant fabrics such as silks
and ~velvets. with embroidery stitches which
quite disguise the fact that the foundation Of
the design is cotton.
Something charming in the way OF a young
lady's dancing gown is made Of gold spangled
tulle. The skirt is gathered la at the waist
lins and trimmed around the hem with full
ruches which form ~rosettes ut intervals The
wide belt is Of clotl, Of gold very gauzy in tex
ture and draped around the wai.', fastening at
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-11-11

Castor gloves are very fashionable for stree
wear. and then there are The heavy dressed
kid gloves with pique stitched seams.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-11-11
Modes for Debutantes and
Matrons This Season.
ELEGANCE IN TULLE OR net.
Gold or Jet Spangled Costumes
for Dinner and Dance.

Revival Of Iiounoss IN the skirts-Psrty
Of MousselInc- striking Youthful
Dresses Of Black and white-Tho Round
Bodice tho Prevailing Styie-Empire and
Princess Effects ContestIng for the suprem.
scy-EveninE sleeves In NarIety-Trim-
ming Of the Costumes Evening Wraps
Elaberats-Popuiarit OF the Separate waist.
Fashion has a varying list OF charms for wo-
men. but one OF the most potent Of all lies In its
power OF stimulation. II Is n sort of invigorat-
ing tonic for the feminine mind. and involves
. periodical renewing Of the general appear
anoes which Is very grateful to feminine vanity.
Each season brings its changes and at once a
Dew picture OF how she will look in this or that
Dsw costume promptly presents itself to a wo-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-11-11

There seems to be no limit TO tho varied
possibilities of tucks, and now We have them
in fur. aS II il were not expensive enough with
out doubling up in is value in that manner
RrictschwanZ j. the one pelt which can be sue
c~elsrully manipulated in this way, but the plan
biousr Jacket is shown in ore style. with three
tuCks a. either side 81 the front beginning
al the shoulder and narrowing in at the waist
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-11-11

Pannes in Persian colorings and designs
are much used for waists. Us also are ng-
ured yelveteens.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-11-11

irregular shaped pearl. set around with dia-
monds md ~flagrce gold If IL IL genuine But
the imitation pearl set with rhinestones is Il
much cheaper edition.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-11-11

Tiny pink roses are worn a. a couture deco
ration. in the evening. arranged IN a close
wreath around the Knot. which l. dressed high
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-11-11

Bolero jackets of Irish lace edged with
narrow band of fur are worn over blouse
OF cream oriental satin with skirts OF clotI
ia pale,t gray or biscuit color.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-11-11

ends and straps Of velvet and for TIE centre
of ~rosettc- and butterfly bows.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-11-11

Small hats made entirely Of the breast
feathers OF diff erent birds are one of the fads
in millinery. and are trimmed with "A bunch
OF flowers on a rosntte OF velvet or musseIine.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-11-11

Irish lace j. very popular for mill merry a,
as well H. gown trimmings.
Snft fell Lnl, In NerY pale onlnrs trimmed
Marietta daily leader. (Marietta, Ohio) 1895-1906, 1900-09-28
AUTO MOUNTS PIXIES PEAK.
John Brisben Walker Ascends / 900
Feet and Then Coasts
Down.

For the first time in its history
Pixies peak was the other day as
cended by an automobile. and John
Brisben Walker. of New York, did the
feat Although he did not go clear
to the top, yet he made an ascent of
1000 feet, the highest that an auto
mobile has travelled anywhere in the
world. His only company in the as
cent and the descent was his son JUS
tus, who has accompanied him on the
western trip.
THE road was the worst l ever
saw" said Mr.. Walker, "and got worse
and worse as we proceeded. When
1000 feet was made we fell in with
tourists, who told us it was much
worse beyond and advised us to turn
back, which | proposed to do. Going
back, however, was like coming down
toboggan chute, and we made the
distance in quarter less time. 1t
was fearfully rapid work"
Marietta daily leader. (Marietta, Ohio) 1895-1906, 1900-09-28
THE CENSUS COUNT.


At the close of Office hours the 9TH
er day the clerks of the census Office
counted 42,144,s1s of the population
of the country. The count is still
progressing at the rate of 100000
per day. and will be finished by the
latter part of October. These figures
will furnish some basis for those who
will engage in guessing contests as to
the number of the population.
These persons already counted are
contained in the reports of 20,945
enumerators, which give an average
of 1,427 to each enumerator. At one
time the average was 1,500 names to
each enumerator, and il has been as
low as 1.400. 1t may increase or di-
minish. There are $4,000 enumeration
districts in the United States, and
calculating the population on the
basis of l.427 to each gives total of
75,630,000. But in the judgment of the
officials the total will be between 49,
000,0 ,000O and 100000.
Marietta daily leader. (Marietta, Ohio) 1895-1906, 1900-09-28
YALES' OLDEST GRADUATE.
Benjamin ID. SiIIiman Celebrates His
Ninety-Fifth Birthday and Is
Still Vigorous.

Benjamin d. Silliman, the oldest
living graduate of Yale college. cele-
brated the other day his ninety-fifth
birthday and his seventy-first anniver-
sary as lawyer. Mr.. Siliman is at
his country place in West lslip, l.. !.
The old man does not show his age.
He does not appear much over 90 and
is still in active practice at the bar.
Last spring he argued case in the
court of appeals which he had success
fully fought through the lower courts.
Mr.. Silliman lives at Pierrepont
and Clinton streets, in Brooklyn, and is
a courtly gentleman. He has not de-
parted from the elegant manners of
the olden times, and when he appears
in court he is always extremely polite
and courteous to His opponent
He declares that work has kept him
as young as he is. Cheerfulness, he
says, is necessary in the battle of
life.