Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1900-07-19
NOTES OF TRAVEL.

WintoWb OF our mouse, niBn UP on Ln6
bill Of 81. Gervais, the Beautiful city
Of Rouen il spread like map at our
feet, the Seine winding through II,
and beyond, the high chalk downs of
Bonsecour. We look down on the
magniilcent old cathedral, towering
high above the houses, on the beauti.
ful church Of St. Orien. with its
lace-iike spires and buttresses, and
on the Paiais do Justice. the
finest civic building in Europe.
Though much of the town Ia modern
lied there remains many an old
carved door way and picturesque Rabled
and tiled roof on the narrow winding
streets, that would gladden. the eyes Of
an artist 1t is equally rich in historic
interest; not stones throw from our
door are the remains Of the oldest
ecclesiastical building in Europe,
north Of the Alps. It Is the crypt Of
the Piiory of ST. Geryais to which
William the Gonqneror was carried in
his last Illness. when he could no
LONGER benr the noise and traffic of tho
town and was borne up the hill to this
quist retreat where be died. In the
long twilight We strolled over to the
modern Norman church which now
covers the crypt. Two or three worship
pers were kneeling In the dim ligbI
before the shrines and Kissing their
beads as they counted them over. The
sacristnn, with lighted candle, con-
Quoted US down the winding steps With
many warnings not to bump our heads
against the low ceiling. The crypt WAS
built by st. Victrice in the fourth
century, for the safe keeping of the
first relics Of bis church ON a pagan
land. He was the friend Of st Martin
OF Tours and 81. Ambrose Of Milan,
said our guide, and probably obtained
from thom the sacred fragments to he
carefully preserved for the strengthen
ing Of faith among the inidels. In
the walls Of the cold and gloomy little
vault are still the thin red bricks Of
the Roman builders fastened with their
strcng cement Two square racesses in
the walls show hollows in the stone
where we're the bolts and bars for the
security Of the sacred vessels kept
WITHIN. On the altar are small incsed
crosses and on the. walls faint traces Of
carving and fresoo; a low stone seat
runs around the wall There is an
absolute simplicity about this tiny
crypt that tells Of the strong and
simple faith of the early Christians
and appeals more to our sympathy than
does the highly ornate modern church
above ii with its tinsel decorated
shrines. 1t is thrilling to look from
my window on the spot where died the
man who changed thu destiny OF the
Anglo Saxon race.
Except where the passion for modern
izing has seized tine Rouennaise the
streets are narrow and winding with
sidewalks ranging from one to three
feet in width, 60 everybody walks in
the middle Of the street and most
picturesque objects are to be seen old
women In white caps, kerahiefs and
full short skirts, school boys all In long
black blouses reaching to their heels,
Norman farmers carts perched aloft on
their high wheels, covered with high
arched top and drawn by q big
Percheron horse. Sometimes we meet
funeral; priest walking ahead
carrying tall silver cross and followed
by the bearse, with even the horses
draped entirely in long black robes,
except for eye.holes which are oirclsd
with white, and give grotesque ap.
pearance. In the evening gontherd
comes with his herd Of full-uddered
goats, which he milks at the door Of
his patrons, blowing a shrill whistle
on bis Pan pipes. cut from a goats
horn, TO warn them Of his approach.
A wolf-like dog assists 10 keep the
goats In order, though for the most
part they walk sedately beside him
except when children tempt them with
daintiss, which they almost climb In
at the windows to reach, to the delight
of the children. The shops are all oper
on Sundays and crowded with shop,
pers, especially the lower priced ones.
Living is very dear In France; for
example, meat sells from 90 to 40 cents
pound, coffee from 40 to co cents,
butter 25 to 40 cents, ham 40 to 81
cents, fruit and vegetables higher thar
with us; an inferior quality of kero
sere, though the best to he obtained
here, sells for so cents o gallon. In
fact all household supplies are dearel
than with us, except olive oil, and al
dress goods, except gloves. Labor ii
somewhat cheaper; an excellent cool
can be had for SO q week. One wonders
how the poor people live, but for the
most part they look thrifty, which
must be due to their strict economy
md comparative temperance; fewer
intoxicated persons are to be seen thar
In America. The shopkeepers say thu
high prices are due TO excessive tarit
| aud 10 the ootroi, or municipal tax, o.
| the latter we have daily demonstration
Before little house at the foot of oui
garden sits every day, Sundays In
cluded, an officer to collect the octroj
and at the barriere, or eity limits. or
every street leading into the city is
similar. officer, who stops every on,
who passes with basket, and ex
amining Its contents, levies a tax OF
any provisions it may contain. For
dozen of eggs, 2 cents; for q chicken,
cents; potatoes, cabbage, &C., accord
ing to the amupnt, If load of ha,
enters, the octroyeur thrusts an iror
spike through it to learn whether con
| tIaband provisions are hidden within
/ am often reminded OF the lecture de
livered before the New Century CluI
last winter by Prof. Wheeler, who tolt
how France is weighed down by tn,
bun eauoraoy that governs her. A carl
cature in the last Revue Uniyerselle'
represents the French Republic as
young woman with a dozen arms ex
tended in all directions Eith palm
| open to receive tribute. The write
says: The Frenohman has always hi
hand in his pocket" and asks
Where goes all the money we pay t,
the State? The time has arrived whel
the ax-payers cannot support any in
| crease Of taxes; their power to pay /
at an end. What would happen then
if suddenly the state had need Il
| augment its taxes for great publi
| works, or for war? The weight o
the imposts and debt is so heavy tina
it cannot he added to without creatin,
a great national danger After show