Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1900-05-05
Special Correspondence

tween trains. getting Vhlg Hul'''N
,l,rosas OF l.s crooked streets ana
splendid mosque. These make grave
mistake. for there is no city IN the
world 10 compare with Cordova In ro-
mantle and historic interest. one loses
he best of Spanish tour by following
too c,oselv fin beaten paths he may get
his nm of prominent features oul
risses altogether the true spirit Of the
Countrywide mingled SAVIOR of romance
and antiquity, charming sloth ana po-
etlc rascauty which distinguishes
spaln above any other portion OF
I,,,ropa Cordoyas manifold charms OF
ueliowness and tranquility grow upon
The world-Wearled Traveller, uhlu ne
Gnds n difficult Co tear himself away.
For the worn-0ut nerves and uIeu
brsins of those who have been living
III NIGH pressure life Of American
citioe us stiffness and solemnity ACT
ma "a cooling p0ultice ON an lnuaHl-
nation. while the semi-lnvahd mas
moro benefit iu the simple food ana SOFT
Andaiusian air than la an the roslrulls
OF the medcos. al a.
M be sure. there IS good deal 70
annoy one here. IN the slpWness WIN
which the smallest ahairs OF every DAY
an conducted-the universal maxim
bsinp never do today anything that can
possibly be deferred an tomorroW-the
'manana' that never COMES. Nuthlns
seems 10 surprise and disgust lhess
good Cordovans so much as the Vul-
gar prompuude and
EVERLASTING HURRY
Of the average Anglo-saxon. one soon
learns that q is no use trying TO chahge
the customs OF a thousand years TO lli
those Of New York or chicago anu
that 20 kick against the prlcks OF en-
yironment only increases the delay by
far the better way IS TO possess ones
soul I'm patience remembering thdt iall-
way trains. dillgences and muleteer5
expect 10 wait indefinitely, ana mat
10 keep a business engagement any
where near the hour named Is TO make
the inevitable waiting longer al the
other end OF the line
In ones rambles around CordoNa ne
IS continually coming upon new ola oD-
iects Of interest, many OF which are
not mentioned In any gulde-book' 10
get the greatest entertainment out OF
The day. one should cross the Guadal-
oulvir early In the morning, on the pic
turesoue bridge that Octavius cesar
has the credit OF building, but which Is
really the work OF the Caliphs OF
Cordova. spend the hot day hours IN
The "marble forest OF the great
mosque. or the cool and odOrous Court OF
Oranges; and enjoy an evening drive or
promenade in one OF the plaZas Inc
Cofdovese are extremely proud OF their
Quaint old bridge-and with abundant
reason. for there IS not another Ike II
ON the face Of the earth The arms
OF the city. "a bridge placed on water
refers 10 A. Never was queerer
blending OF Roman and Arabian styles
than its sixteen irregular, buitressed
arches, and huge
MOORISH GATEWAY
leading through a tower which was
once part Of the city wall-the RUNS OF
Octavius Caesars bridge serving as =
foundation for the superstructure OF
the CaHphs. erected A. -. ily Al
one end OF It is the gypsy quarter
the haunt OF robbers brigands ano
rascals OF every grade, at thC
other the historic castle Of Calahorca
memorable FOR its important part In th'
siege OF Cordova by Pedro Of CASTLE
Close by. standing out conspicuously II
the now shallow river, are the ruins OF
some Moorish mills, with open horse
shoe arches and time-softened azuel0s
Just beyond rises q colossal statue OF 81
Raphael the arch angel who Is believed
TO be the especial protector OF COrdoFa
He assumed the high Office on May I'm
1873, In a spiritual naturalization U
an obscure priest, named Andres Ace
las. In course OF which the angel an
nounced his purpose In these WORDS
which are carved upon the column
"Yo te iuro por Jesu Crsto cruzlhcado
Que soy Rafael angel, O quien DO
tlene puestO pOr guarda de este culuad'
Nothing can be more entertaining
than the early morning scenes upoI
Cordoya's ancient bridge-the hug
brown gateway OF the Arabs as an an
tistic background for the groups q
gaudlly-dressed peasants who have
wait with their mules while their bui
dens are being closely examined by tax
collectors at the city barrier An equt
stream of mules and drivers. iloWln
c0untryward. becomes congested at On
gate-heasts kicking
STRUGGLING AND BRAYINGi
men. women and children shoutlnl
gesticuaung. swearing or singing
while others improve the shining nov
Of waiting with the eyer-present an
always .cuusoIing guitar, imprompl
oles and fandang0es accompanying u
music. Bogears and cripples are out
force. wrapped In their ragged snui
cOlored Cloaks and lottery ticket Vei
gNra 600 4e Er4mHeh scene Ig CON
plete without them. Priests una
shovel hats and monks IN cows an
hempeu girlles pass % and iroi ar
now and then some rural knight com
gall0pIng in. his servant following clu
behud-f0r AN the world like 'tl
country gentleman. Don Quixote." az
his faithful SanchO Panza from !
Maucha which lies just beyond q
nearest range OF hills, Particularly n
ticeable as part of the varied panoram
are companies of young priests ana 81
dents from the converts. with tht
flowing black gowns and broa
brimmed silken black hats, turned up
both sides like a sugar SCOOP. Some
the students are intent upon their le
sons. coming them aloud, even Ia [
streets. others assuming blase, man-l
the.w0rld airs. smoking their cigarett
ana chuckug pretty peasant girls u
der the chin.
Not least among the sights Of GO
dova are the meil0wed walls "a
surround tia curious combination
Gothic and Roman stone-Work. patch
upon the Tapia, on indestructible G
ment. OF the Moors. The walls enclC
the same area now as In the day OF
city's greatest prosperity, so that
abOdes OF less than
FORTY THOUSAND PEOPLE
straggle over a space that once acco
modated "a million. The vacant sp
thus left are either encountered wi
ruins. on are laid out Ia gardens,
which fruits and flowers o. the trop
flourish unprotected In the open air
side productions OF the temperate zon
apples peaches, pears, corn and 20
toes coming TO perfection. as wen
oranges figs and bananas. But
royal palms are the special glory
Cordova Set thickly IN the gard
and plazas, Haunting their green plur
Ear above the house tops they are