Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-03-03

by the soft folds there arranged These
loius are oftener four or five different
whlris of tule or chiffon, each of a deli
cate and contrasting color, all crushed to-
gether swirl chouX and great foamy arti-
ncial flowers made of deftly turned folds
OF nateria. are to be used. and the effects
gained are wonderful. Tulle overaid with
iolds of soft chiffon is rolled into a deep
hearted rose, and shows as many shades
! and as great beauty of color as the real
HOVER might. Wonderful effects are Sc
curea IN tunnel bows where the swirl is
elongated At the heart a deep color shows
Frightening to the edge. Sash ribbon is also
used, and in panne velvet Of sash width
the size TO which some of these whirl bows
attain would be astonishing had they not
reached 1t gradually.
Tucked Facings and Strings.
hat very much like the Salvation Army
bonnet, only that the brim lifts and flares
more. is one of the few protests against
!, the Spanish and the draped-scarf hat THIS
protest is classified an empire bonnet
Ii comes usually in black velvet, with
little pointed or boxed crown, sometimes
made very long. The brim. narrows to
nothing at the back and pokes shovel fash
ion in front, faring up from the hair The
under side is made becoming by facing of
tuckings OF chiffon in delicate color Strings
leave the back of the hat at either side OF
the crown and are chiffon, long and eIabo-
rated by shirrings and loopings. A pair OF
plumes nod rakishly from one side of the
front, and the crown is often colIared by
several bands of narrow velvet or by fold
ed chiffon to match the strings Each
band is fastened by little fiat bow a tiny
choux or buckle. This is a typical empire
bonnet, but there are lots of variations.
Sailor hats made of tucked taffeta silk
Will be trimmed with plaid lawn or silk
handkerchiefs laid in loose folds on the
brim and massed at one side in choux
The trimmed sailor IS sure to be a popular
design. Just what the perfectly plain SAIL
or Will be no one knows yet, though the
makers are looking wise. It's all a mat
ter or luck The makers get out designs
some one design catches on" becomes
the sailor, and then all the other makers
turn in and copy it. 1t seems likely that
Madras straw will figure in the sailor, and
1t Is said that native weave straw from
our new possessions is later to be exploited
IN walking and dress hats July and Au-
gust make the sailor hat permanent, so It
is too early to be sure. The English walk
ing shape has been so much improved that
it seems sure OF acceptance. BY the one
put IN the accompanying pictures IL is
shown that its former ugliness is overcome
by the manner of trimming and by rnodifi-
cation of shape.
Needlework Effects stiu.
Baby width black velvet ts much used
1t is run in rows on tulle, 10 wrapped
around the crown and is made in tassles
and punches. As rule black is the choice
no matter what the color of the hat but
often velvet to match or of deeper shade
than the material OF the hat is employed.
Baby width satin ribbon run into shirrins
makes dainty finish to the straw braid
that is now laid on tulle or fiber Small
effects and much needlework make the big
notions and characterize the seasons FASH
ions.
Combinations are well nigh endless. One
sees brim Of stitched taffeta silk, with a
crown of straw and trimmings of velvet:
brim of straw; a crown of flowers crushed
together. usually tea, pink or white roses,
and brfm of tulle: crown of taffets laid
In bands OF chiffon and brim of flowers
draped in tulle. Black and white adapts
itself to these combinations of material as
in a hat with crown OF folded black chiffon.
a brim with Spanish edge Of white taffeta
stitched in black and garuiture Of great
crushed white tulle choux overlaad with
black net. Pink in delicate rose shade and
clear baby turquoise blue are combined
with black. along lines similar to the white
and black ruching.
Hats Are Good Sized.
Sizes are generousi indeed, the hat must
give outline to the head. The tiny butter
plate affair that was a mere incident in the
head contour is never seen outside evening
hats, and rarely there. While brirns still
come We'll down over brow and eyes, II can
not be said that the dip is still in vogue
Really the entire hat sets lower on the
head than for many years. the brim being
pretty near to the tops of the ears, as well
as to the tops of the brows in many cases.
Nor does the hat cock up at the back.
Then the Spanish brim gives a look of gem
erous size, when the head round itself may
be rather small. The draped hats that are
mere punches of fiber cloth, stitched taf-
feta or chiffon stiffened with rows of straw
or wire, are all bulky. They may cant
away off to one side, but they are never
skinny in outline. These drapery hats may
be purchased ready made for very little
money and in great variety. They are
trimmed by a great bunch of violets, or a
swagger knot Of ribbon. velvet or lace, and
such addition is easily made. Since they
greatly favor the home milliner, they give
promise of achieving popularity.
Rhinestone buckles are more than ever
the vogue. They are no longer tawdry
stage-king -and-queen affairs. but beautiru
examples of setting. mounted in German
silver. gun metal or copper. Coral and tur-
quoises are combined with rhinestones and
pearls artisucally. One beautiful hat had
folds Of white chiffon, mounted with frosty
lace over tulle