New-York tribune., 1900-12-23

When all are seated ready for the fray the
hest raises mis- cup:
Let us drink!'
We reply. Thanks, thanksr' then set to-with
chopsticks; picking from one dish now
from another, in piquant contrast of sweet, sour
and salt.
The first fury Of the opening attack being
spent. the shattered bands of hors d'oeuvres are
Withdrawn, and the guests saunter into the
olher rooms Tor Whn of tobacco or-WhiSper
IL not In Gath-a pipe Of opium, attendant the
real repast
Certain traditional dishes form the backbone
or the feast. Fer instance that most delicious
Of bOuillis. sharks fir soup. always opens the
ball 1t is served in large bowl. smoking hot
and consists of elutinOus entanglement of soft
fins stewed in their own liquor The flavor is
slightly salt, but exquisite Another traditional
oish appears toward the close Of the feast in
the shape of a fat duck reposing in it's broth
Ihough boiled so thoroughly that n touch from
a chopstick dissolves it without aid Of knife the
bird appears on the table with smooth white
breast and limbs intact, and its noby tooth
some appearance is usually greeted with a buzz
Of antiCiDatory applause
The remaining items of the menu are only
curious from the mode of their selection for
each guest chooses his own dish. taking care
that II shall harmonic with thoso already
lected. Cne names q salmi Of wild duck. his
nelghbor q ClSh or SteWcd mushrooms, and so on.
Wine remarked, is drunk throughout and
always hot Uhe Chinese eschew all cold drinks).
The cups being small their number has little
effect they cheer, but do not a rule in
ebrate. IntoXication extremely rare though
not apparently from moral considerations So
much from those Of eyDedienCy, for tipSnesS
is not generally regarded disgracing.
The finger game. resembling the Italian mora
is played during meals, the loser swallowing as
penalty a cup of wine. Two play at a
time They show suddenly and simultaneously
certain number of the fingers OF one hand, and
each thrusts them forth he shouts or squeals
the number which he thinks will be the total of
his and his opponents fingers. Thus, if
thinks s going put up three fingers he
shows fonr. and calls "SeVenr' While B. expect
ing him to show Two himself shows one and vo-
cifeTates Three This simple game is i'm
mensely popular throughout the eighteen prov
irCeS.
Dishes are not as a rule, cleared away during
meals that toward the close of dinner the
table field Of carnage. From time to time the
convives retire 10 smoke. and occasionally a re-
freeher in the shape OF a coarse towel wrung
out of hot water is handed round for the guests
to successfully wipe their steaming faces with
an agreeable process tnat has been initiated in
the luxurious toilet rooms of the States. The
apotheCsis OF the dinner is the duck before al
Iuded TO. He is succeeded by q few sweet dishes
Finally comes q bowl or two of white hoiled rice
or nillet pOrridce-to clean the Da'atA. Gp
home dinners rice IS the chief item in restaurant
dinners il Is risidIy excluded until the fnale)
Rince-bouches Of warm water follow. then cup
Of tea and the feast is
The guests shortly aFterward disperse. the
host apoiogiZng for the wretched dinner ne has
dared 10 set before them. the guests politely
protesting-emphasiZin their sincerity and
pleton by voIIeys of eructatiOns
When the giver of the feast leaves the restau-
rant the amount nf the bills is. in his honor.