Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-09-08

used with great success on some Of the new
costumes. The fashion is probably due to
recent interest in all things Chinese,
but the effect is one that Is admirable, since
the majority of the best oriental embroi-
deries marveously pretty and well
made to the smallest detail, once our eyes
are accus toned to their odd combinations
of color. Boleros of the Chinese or Japa-
nese work combine we'll with the rich dull
shades that are the accepted colors for fall
wear. Swedish embroideries. consisting of
appliques of cloth worked around the edge
With gold cord, are also having their
vogue. The Swedish designs owe their
beauty to sketchiness of the pattern rather
than to any nceties of work Bits of
leather are interspersed with the cloth APP
pliques and add to the novelty Of the trim
ming.
The New Double Sleeve.
The new double sleeve can be utilized to
excellent effect on the winter tailor-made
gowns The sleeve is usually short on the
Jacket and puffed on the blouse which is
worn underneath. Many street gowns of
the tailor order are made to wear without
an underblouse or bodice; the undersleeve
is sham one, while the ceinture under the
bolero carries out the appearance of being
the lower part of the underwaist. Gowns
built in this way will mean quite saving
In cost as blouses are expensive wardrobe
items even at the bargain counter, when
they must be of silk or satin
Long coats are to be much worn this
winter, but they will be shaped to the fig
ure In more decent fashion than those that
We're worn last year. The long coats are
so comfortable and so useful withal pro-
tecting the entire surface of the gown as
they do, that they are not likely to be
lightly dispensed with.
1t seems as though bodices with long
pointed fronts and bird-tail backs would be
popular. Long stoles in front embroidered
or otherwise richly trimmed, are gradually
making themselves conspicuous on cos
INN ty,tx .la.I fol
embroideries and other fancy trimmings
makes the cost of the fashionable dress
something appalling. Not only are all con-
structed of expensive material. but what
with sutchfngs. shirrings, hand painting
and hand embroideries so much work is
put upon the gowns that 1t is no longer
possible to have a gown of the more elab-
crate sort made at the price at which they
used to be.
Wooden Shirt Waists.
The summer shirt waists counterpart,
the wooden winter shirt waist, is now to be
seen in advance designs in showcases at
the Bon Marche and the Louvre The
waists follow in pattern those OF the sum-
mer Flannels Of fine quality, but in every
color. are used In the making of the waists.
The yokes are all stitched and short Some
OF them are of an arrangement Of stitched
bands put on to form an ornamental pat
tern. The collars are very often of the
iuIutu-OFeT sOTt, with SILK tie knOtted I'M
der the chin. The fronts of the waists are
caught up in very narrow tucks The
sleeves are moderately full and made with
narrow cuff.
A Queens Selections.
Queen Wilhelmina Is having her autumn
frocks made up now. One Of the prettiest
OF her gowns is a dainty toilet useful for
wear at those bazaar openings or corner
stone ceremonies at which royalty is so
often asked to off1ciate. The garment is OF
rose gauZe over satin. The corsage is OF
trimmed with a fichu-like collar, knotted at
one side with a chou of gauze. The fichu
Is made OF white mousseline de sole and
lace. The skirt Is trimmed with flounces
OF gauze edged with lace dyed to match
the gown. a pointed overskirt drapery fall
ing over the lace fiounces and a long SASH
like drapery of gauze being attached to the
back.
Although the yachting season is almost
on the wane the demand for tailored gowns
of white serge and white alpaca continues.
A young woman never looks better than in
white, and the uses to which q white
wooden frock may be put are many. At a
country house they make pleasing outdoor
gowns well into the fall
CATHERINE TALBOT.