New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1900-09-16
PARTISAN WINTER MODES.
THR SEVERE TAILOR BASQUE is MAX
ING IT'S APPEARANCE-STYLE
IN FURS
Paris. September Z.

In sTate OF the fact that the blouse effect is the
That prevails IN most Of the gowns there
are good many basques appearing on the market.
The English tsiiors here say that IN their London
establishments almost many basQues as Jackets
are being made and that English women are eager
IL welcoming this model. But French women
have Fever liked the long, severe basque lines. and
70 is doubtful IL the basque VIII have any perma-
nsnt vogue IN Paris
Those that have been seen have had some long
line IN front, sometimes a soft front vest. that
has given the fashionable nat long WASTED effect.
Most OF these intended for the street only TO
be worn. jacket is worn, with wrap save
perhaps some fur about the shoulders. One of
light biue cloth, absolutely plain, with line of
gold buttons running to the edge of the
choker. was the Bots yesterday. The cloth
embroidered with a sort Of cobweb effect in
gold braid, and the garment worn with white
lace skirt
The tailors show IN this model extensive of
black cloth and gold braid. A basque that looks
well is Of black cloth, trimmed with straps of black
satin and small gold buttons, while another black
cloth is ornamented with clover leaves cut from
golden brown paune applqued with gold thread,
The use Of brown q trimming is certainly odd,
but the color is fashionable this year.
BROWN A BECOMING COLOR.
So many women look well IN brown that IL will
be welcomed among the list Of modlsh colors. This
becomingness is, however, far more general among
American women than among the French. for It is
the brown haired woman who finds brown always a
safe shade. It should. however, never be worn
when the hair is gray or grayish, and light brown
is often trying to coorless blondes. But the
age American girl Will find a suit of brown velvet
excellent investment this winter.
The following model, 10 which a leading
turier has just affixed has name will illustrate 3
certain style Of velvet gown that viii be in great
vogue little later on, gown sufficiently dressy
for afternoon reception OF the informal order
and Vet that may be the street while
walking. The skirt is arranged in clusters OF plaits
that resemble covered cords, and these stitched
with orange red silk The bright color in 4
satin finish cloth makes q belt deep behind. hut
drawn down into the fashionable point In from
with little tab ends that close with q small bucl-ia
Of dull GOLD. Above this IS blouse Jacket edge
with tiny line Of sable and rolling open show
Of white psnne dotted with gold.
The choker is Of the panne with rim of red
above II, and below it falls lace cravet that
comes from the shoulders and knots the bust
with loose ends that fall over the vest
In spite Of the pronounced fashionableness OF
velvet, there Is little doubt that a large pro-
portion OF cloth suits VIII appear. Black cloth,
trimmed with black satin and q touch Of gold
broidery, IS combination considered the extreme
Of modishness al the moment and will be
gRrded unless killed by great q popularity. In
spite Of the craze for gold now, it must be borne
in mind that IN Paris gold trimmings began 10 be
largely employed almost year ago. and therefore
i would not bo surprising If the New Year
the finish this fashion. In Paris when a fashion
else. Still This IS far from denying the fact that
gold tissue. braid, buttons and embroidery are all
extensively used ny the leading dressmakers on the
gowns intended for fall and early winter.
SKIRT FOR = VELVET GOWN.
The style Of skirt chosen for the majority of
velvet costumes Is the plain skirt, with a thick
cluster Of pleats in the back. This skirt is cut
with considerable flare toward the foot but with
less than is effected by the use Of a box pleated
circular founce-anothe- model in favor. Velvet IS
too heavy for peated skirt unless the pleats are
very small in the OF the brown velvet cos
tune described above. Something OF a novelty is a
skirt cut in long, slender tabs about the bottom
these tabs running about the height Of the
pleats on a p!eated skirt and hung over a box
pleated Gnderfounce the box pleats appearing be-
tween the tabs. The gown IN mind is of black
panne and black satin the latter material used &
the undersklrt- The lower Edges Of the tabs are
trimmed with applications OF ecru lace and jet
embroidery. The bodice is cut as a boIero with
two long. loose tabs in front that are trimmed in
similar fashion. These fan over a soft belt of
PACK satin pulled down in front with handsome
OF chains OF jets over turquoise blue mousseline de
There is. after all, considerable variety in skirts.
q pretty model not very common. has the skirt in
narrow inserted panel in front soft serge in
oI1snt green is made up in this way. with a trim
ne skirt are three deep tucks each headed with a
front panel three times al regular interyaIsS 01
me oodlee Is ehoker and small circular yoke OF
into narrow belt Of black velvet O' ''e"'e
HANDSOME CLOTH DRESS
One OF these bright green cloths is Handsomely
trimmed with plaid Of black and pale vel
low The box pleat the back of the bodice
and the wide inverted pleat on the skirt are out.
MED with folds OF the fancy silk This makes
ne long line behind that is apt to be becoming
yo inc e rr9nt OF the bodice there small square
hang three box uleats that make tha III
These are trimmed with folds OF The fsncrt In
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