The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1900-01-10

Fields are dark green with the rank lux
uriance Of growing crops the air is soft
and warm; birds are singing In the
trees and orchards; peach almond,
pear and cherry orchards abound, and
every inch of cultivated ground Is radi-
ant with wild flowers. Only geology
can explain this amazing change. On
one side of the ridge are the alluvial
sand-fats of some ancient sea; on the
other the rocks, clays, schist and lime
stones of the oolites. And then such
triumphs Of natures masonry in cliff
and mountain such strangely contorted
peaks and intensely red rock surfaces,
such harmonies of grays and puppies,
green's and blues! On a massive cliff,
commanding the six miles of fertile val
ley between the ridge and sebutal
stands the ancient Moorish stronghold
of Pamela, still no mean fortress, with
its square towers and tall battlements.
Sebutal, lying close to the beach, has
its own hil-fortress, that of ST.
Philip, built by Philip III.
forts, stretched along the river The
town, which the English-who have
murdered so many Latin names in cold
OBSERVATION-DISCLOSURES odluL ~ W, is Sll udlGu
very much like Lisbon, lying a few miles
from the Atlantic, on the north side of
| a great river, Ohe Sado) whose broad
estuary forms magnificent harbor,
though INSTRUCTED by sand banks near
| its entrance. Never was seen a more
beautiful city, as approached in the
late afternoon-its white houses glitter
ing in the sun, in strong contrast to
| the dark green orange groves surround
| ing them and the bright blue bay in
front. In the west, overlapping town,
valley and lesser heights, stretches the
| Arrabida range, peak above peak, to the
! western Ocean" Somewhere in the
| foot hills or those red, treeless mount
| aims, two or three thousand feet above
| the sea, is the rare old cloister of Ar
| rabida, within whose stalactite cavernS,
| since time immemorial body of Gray
| Friars have passed lives of austere de-
votion, visited once year by pious pill
grims from all parts of Portugal. Like
other monks these mountain Friars are
buried in unmarked graves, and it is
said that If the hunter inadvertently
steps upon the place of holy dust, his
earthly blessings are numerous forever
afterwards.
Setubal stretches three miles or more
along the river bank faced with broad
quay6 and spacious warehouses. Though
it's population is less than 10000, it is
Portugal's fourth city in size and third
in commercial mportance-owing chief
ly to it's extensive trade in Muscate and
white wines. Considerable quantities of
oranges, lemons and cork bark are also
exported. 1t is the emporium of the
Portuguese salt-works too, mined a
few miles to the eastward. The salt
is said to be the finest for curing fish
and meat. and is principally shipped to
Scandinavian ports. Its pilchard and
other fisheries are also of great value.
There are number of quaint old
churches in the town, sevral converts, |
a theatre, a bull-ring, an arsenal and a
handsome monument to the poet, Bo
cage, who was born in Setubal,-the |
name, by the way, being pronounced as
if spelled Say oo--vahl Among its
other notable public buildings are three |
hospitals, two Latin colleges, the Bonn |
fin with its beautiful fountain, the
Fonte Nova and the Annunciata. Re
mains of ancient walls enclose the town
on its Landslide and the whole valley
is completely commanded by forts on
the hills. This is the site Of the old
Roman city, Cetobriga. Some Jealous
authors give it still greater antiquity
and ascribe it's origin to Tubal, near
descendant of Noah
Far more interesting than the city of
to-day are the remains of ancient
'Troja," in the sand hills of a low-lying
promontory in the bay. Early in the
present century an unusually heavy
rainfall uncovered the ruins and In 1850
an antiquarian society began researches,
which have later been carried on by the
Dukes of Palmilla, the richest and most
family of Estramadura
province. beautiful Roman house
has been unearthed, almost entire, and
many Roman coins and other antiqui-
ties which furnish conclusive evidence
that the place dates back to 10000 A.
D. You may easily visit it, sailing
across the bay from Setubal: and in
the nearby palace of the Duke of Pal
mila. if so fortunate as to gain an in
you may see lachrymatories
and cinerary urns of glass, Saguntine
vases, bronze and earthenware lamps,
amphoras, style of bone, bits of mosaic
and columns of colored mar
BILE and a great number of coins, Rom
an and Phoencian. 1t is a significant
fact, as indicating dates, that while
Traian Antonious Plus and Julian the
Apostate are represented by only one
" two coins each, seventeen have been
ound of Constantine Gallus $40 of Graf /
Jan, (who died A. D. $3.50, 200 of Maxi
nus who overthrow and succeeded him,
md about $50 of Theodosius the Great.
There are fewer of Theodosus' two ]
sons, who reigned after him, the last ,
If whom died in the year 425 and the I
coins of no more emperors are to be '
'ound in Troja.
Why the ancient Romans or any
,ther people, should have wanted to 1
make a settlement, much less lux
lrious city of palaces and marble
,aths. on an absolutely barren head I
and, when the fair and fertile shore of |
setubal lay just opposite and apparent /
v waiting to receive them, must for 3
yer remain among the mysteries. Per- i
laps sea and land have shifted their 6
elative positions since that early day
md it is the opinion of many scientists c
hat if the sand-dunes were shoveled c
way it would be found that Troja ex-
ended far around the bay. Quite re- c