The evening times. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1895-1902, 1900-07-23

PHILADELPHIA, July 23.-G-izs c. T.
Gordon-Clmming, OF this city, who has
Travelled extensively in the Orient. when
asked as TO her Impressions Of Pekin, the
Chinese capital, said:
I can only describe il as the drCa-iest
wilderness Of dirt and dust that can well
be conceived vast city covering an i'm
mense space. with such very wide streets
thet double rows Of wretchod booths Oc-
cupy the centre. and so produce an impress
sion Of indescribable squalor.
I'VE went 20 Pekin from Tung-Chow.
which is one Of the 4.C00 walled cities of
China. These walls are about f0rty-hvo
feet in height. twenV-iour feet wide at
the top and thirty feet AZ the base, but
this does no; Imply solid masonry. but only
a great earth rampant encased in an outer
and inner wall Of brickwork, and row in
a most dilapidated state.
For five hours We were jolted in Pekin
carts, which are the only small carriages
il these parts. and consist OF small wood
en- frames without springs CfoT no springs
could possibly exist On these roads, Each
cart IS poised On two exceedingly large,
heavy wheels closely studded all around
the rim with huge iron nails. and over
head IS an aTChed framework OF wood
covered with blue calico. and With 10
opening AT the back. so that having taken
your seat in the seclusiOn OF your car
riage you are not only Invisible 20 the
world. but you can only see right ahead
over the shoulder OF your driver who sits
on the shaft that be may the better be-
labor his mUie. This, you viii admit. is
not an ideal way for an intelligent traveller
10 see new country.
Il had the luck Of securing q very su-
perior cart with a glass window nearly a
foot square, and 50 contrived 10 see some
thing Of our surroundings. But indeed. l
had 10 devote ay whole attention TO hold
ing on to the cart. so IS in some measure
to lessen the shocks OF iCcessant humping.
as we jsrkeC and Jolted in and out OF pit
falls on the Bread stone causeway which.
when newly made. 600 years ago, must
have been frst-cIass.
For first as a foundation. there was a
roadway Of earth raised to a height Of six
feet above the level plain. This was
coated with cement into which were sunk
large. accurately fitted. perfectly smooth
pavement stones Of irregular size some
being nearly nine feet long by two II
width. and this stone causcway, p feet
wide. was the imperial highway 10. and al
around, the capital. Now. il is more exc
cradle than anything you can imagine. The
worst cart road In Britain could convey no
idea OF this approach 70 the metropolis, or
Of the condition OF even the principal
streets The stone slabs are broken. tilted
over. the road is all worn into deep ruts
like chasn5, and holes from one 20 two feet
in depth. in and out OF which the driver
/ guides the heavy wheels Of his sprinEless
cart. the marvel being how the mules es-
I cape broken LEGS many times & day. III
. numerous places the road deca1erates into
mere track Of deep dust. which in rainy
/ weather becomes en- absolute Quar-ire.
"All along the cherries road a multitude
Of miserable. starved looking beggaSs and
naked children lay grcveling il the dust
/ krcelirs with their foreheads On the earth
10 crave small coin and il was pititul "a
| see the gratitude with which they received
gifts so irl-i-ssiuaI in value that We felt
ashamed 10 offer them.