The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1900-02-11
MOURNING DRESS FOR MEN.
SUITABLE TOILETS FOR MORNING,
AFTERNOON AND EVENING.

Shirt studs.
New York. Feb. 9.-Dignified and de-
cent mourning dress for a man does not
permit the use of a black band on the
sleeve of a tan colored coat The varie-
ty loving city bounder may be permitted
to enjoy this indecorous means of pub
fishing the loss of one both near and dear;
but the well dressed man and gentleman
must array himself from top to tee in
the proper trapping and suit of woe. or
make no pretensions to mourning d. ess
at all.
The complete outfit for the individual
who has lost a near relative, a parent,
child, sister or brother or wife, is for
business hours and for the morning
full suit of the toughest wool in black
the sacque coat, trousers and waist coat
all from the one piece of goods. With
this white linen and a duh black silk tie
in which no pin appears AS the waist
coat buttons high and the cravat spreads
its folds amply no bit of linen save the
cuffs and collar appear, so that the shirt
bosom striped or sprigged or dotted with
black about which there is always an UNI
pleasant tomb stony suggestion is wisely
and thoroughly blotted out of sight and
use.
Vanished boots are not permitted with
this costume, dull calf or dongola with
black cloth spats taking natural prece-
dence of any other type of footwear. A
gun metal watch chain, drawn straight
across the waist coat, cuff links of the
same material and gloves of black gazella
skin denote a proper attention to small
Insignificant details.
AS for headgear, the black bowler or
choose
the approved roof and crown of thir gs
demonstrating the term medium, in its
proportions of crown and brim, lined with
white satin and bearing black band from
two inches and half to two inches and
three-quarters in width.
Full afternoon dress for a man in
mourning requires that the frock coat
trousers and waistcoat be cut from the
same piece of black vicuna, or rather
heavy unfinished worsted, and that the
shoes be of leather enameed sufficiently
to give only a slight lustre. Black splat-
ter dashes buttons over these and the
gloves are black glace kid fastened with
two large black buttons The top hat for
such an outfit at the funeral may be
bound with crepe. Thereafter, mourner' s
cloth is the appropriate band and is worn
widest for a wife. For a child or parent
the top hats band should measure two
inches and three-quarters.
Tightening the Gloom.
Into the full dress mourning suit a
CLEAN of light may be cast by the scarf
and pin, though for the funeral and first
weeks afterward a cravat of silk as lus-
treless as the facing of the coat lapels
and pierced by dull black enameled pin
paves the way to a craVat of black and
grey brocade and an onyx pin touched
with gold. In the brocade figures or stripes
are equally acceptable, and one man of
undoubted taste and knowledge in the
niceties of dress wears in his tie a sin
gle pearl of modest size sunk in gypsy
setting of black enamel showing a hair
line of gold Another popular form is a
birds claw of onyxed gold and dusky
enamel holding a ball of onyx A watch
chain of gold links subdued with elabor-
ate tracings of black enamel afford an
other relieving touch to prevailing gloom
of the garments and for sleeve links moth
ing takes precedence of thin long oval
buttons of beautifully polished agate, the
lustrous blackness of the stone traversed
by misty blue white lines. Sunk in deli
cate gold bands, and linked with gold,
these are the acme of smartness and re-
finement.
Significant Details.
No discussion of mourning could assume
to be complete without refernce to the
handkerchief linen and the visiting card
The first should not be hemsltched in
black and many men ridicue the notion
and with Justification that 1t is neces-
sary, manly or seemly to carry with
mourning dress other than purely white
muchoir There is undeniably a number
however, who cling to the tradition of
the mourning handkerchief and have in
the corners of their purely white linen
squares small oval or diamond of black
linen set and on this the initials in chaste-
ly simple white embroidery done Surely
there is nothing conspicuous of effeminate
in this device as may be urged against the
black border, and it serves perfectly to
satisfy the conscientious qualms of those
who love to do everything decently and
in order.
A small bristol board slip, lightly Dor
dered with black and bearing the name in
heavy black letters or in old English is
the carte de visite of the gentleman suf-
fering a bereavement and bill folder card
case and cigarette holder should respect
lively be made, the two first of black
seal, the latter of gun metal with the
initials thereon lightly chased in gold
Concerning evening dress for a man in
mourning for the first month nothing
need be said, for he who respects his own
grief and the conventions sufficiently to
wear carefully considered mourning does
not for at least four weeks appear at any
function where evening dress is required
AT home for dinner the costume necessary
Is that customariy worn, the waistcoat
matching the trousers and short dinner
coat, the tie of lustreess black silk the
sleeve links such as he wore with his
afternoon dress and the shirt studs of
white enamel. When the days of MOURN
ing are not chronologically completed but
healthy human nature turns nevertheless
to social intercourse and diversion che
long tailed coat with the black waist coat
tie and black gloves are worn to the thea
ter and to dinners, while the simple en-
amel studs appear vastly more appropri-
ate than the undertakerish effect of black
enamel or even gray pears that a few
men have adopted. Better 1t will be TO
wear the more than ever popular white
WAN