The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-10-08

ut is a well-understood fact" said an
official of the Agricultural Department re-
Gently. that many of the best California
| wines are offered for sale under foreign
| labels. This course" continued the off
| cial, "deprives the wine industry of the
state OF all the reputation which the supe-
| rior quality of many of these diguised
brands would otherwise confer upon it.,
while it is left to bear all the discredit of
the poor wine offered for sale under the
domestic label"
The consumption OF wine among Ameri-
cans is not as in many nations, particu
larry in France and Italy, almost universal,
while among those in this country who do
use the juice of the grape. there are many,
who, as the result OF mere fashion or FAM
cy, continue to drink wines bearing French
and German labels, preferring them at
treble the price to the native product.
This avowed preference of many people
for a foreign wine, or rather for for
| eign label. leads California wine dealers
into an almost necessary course of fraud.
The better informed purchaser recognizes
| the fact that only a very small quantity
OF sO-called foreign wine, sold in this
country. can be genuine. The better
brands of champagne, for instance, never
leave Europe unless by special consign-
| ment. The same may be said of cognac
brandy, with, indeed. the reservation that
even in Europe there is much spurious i'm
itation of this famous liquor. most il not
all of it being disposed of in Paris and
London.
Returning, however, to the subject of
California wines and brandies, it may be
said, according to the statement Of an
Agricultural Department expert that
while Europe still holds pre-eminence in
certain kinds of wine, this excellence is
now closely rivaled by California prod
ucts. Success in wine-making depends
very much upon experience.
At the last Paris Exposition of 1889 not
less than thirty-fve medals gold silver,
and bronco were awarded to wines made
on the Pacific Coast, and the outlook is
/ that even 2 better result will be obtained
from California's exhibit at the present
Worlds Fair at the French capital. The
steady Improvement in the quality of
American wines, and the fact that many
of the most famous European vineyards
have become, in some instances, extinct,
while in others they are clearly tending
toward n-productiyeness, lead to the
conclusion that the Pacific Slope will be-
come in future probably the chief wine
country in the world.
Since the pioneers in the business"
said an eminent California wine grower In
a recent communication to the Agricultu-
raj Department. introduced the best Eu-
ropean and Asiatic varieties of grape,
these have been tested on their merits in
different parts Of the State. From the
crude beginnings with the Mission grape
in the making ofawhite wine and clarets.
the growers have progressed TO the best
foreign grapes, testing over twenty diff
ferent kinds.
Wherever California fine wines, white
or red, have been introduced under their
true labels. and given chance for just
appreciation on their own merits. they
have been bought and consumed with
satisfaction. establishing their name and
fame. Experience has taught what and
where to plant. Certain counties in this
State have been found to be adapted to
grapes for the finest dry wines and 9TH
ers best adapted TO fruit for sweet wines.
1t has also been found that different va
rieties of grapes need different pruning
and training to produce the best results.
For instance. it is known TO be folly
to plant Vinifera va rieties direct and the
best resistant stocks have been found.
The Riparia once the favorite stock be-
cause it grows easily from cuttings and
takes the graft readily, it has been dis
covered, Will 10 on deep soils and in To-
cations which are under the influence of
the moist air N the neighborhood of the
bay or ocean, ara that IL will not flourish
in the interior valleys or on dry, gra-
velly SOIL where the Lenoir and the
Herbemont withstand the longest
drought.
THE Rupestus st. George, lately intro
duced from France, where 1t is one of
the most valued stocks, is found best
adapted to the drest soils and locations
of the State. The growers are satisfied
now that many of the best varieties
when grated on resistant roots in their
proper localities will produce better
crops than they ever did on their own
roots Such are a few of the many les
sons that have been learned and as the
trade in California wines is extending in
all directions-to England. Belgium,
Germany the Hawaiian Islands, Central
America, Japan, and China, with the
prospect that the newly acquired posses
sions may also afford a market for Our
own wines and brandies-it is believed
that this country will, at no very distant
date. supply the greater portion Of the
world with the Juice of the grape"