Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1900-10-18
HINTS OF THE TROUSEAUX.

bridal SEASONS AS surely as the one |
brings US the sweetness OF budding |
trees, the other all the glory OF
autumnal color, weddings are 10 pre-
paration on every side and questions OF
trouseaus fill the air. This season
makes no exception to the rule. In
spite of the unusual number of summer
weddings, October and November are to
have their full share and the work of
preparation goes on apace.
The sll important gown, the one
designed for the ceremony itself, Is
sub iect to certain fixed laws that. do
much as they will. If possible it must
be white. In fact no other color is
true bridal gown; for while countless
VOWS have been taken in travelling
gowns or those of dark silk they repre-
sent an emergency rather than custom.
Tradition has it that the wifely state
must be entered upon in virgin white
to typify the purity of the girls soul.
When, for any reason it must be
ignored, whatever best suits con.
veniencS and circumstances is SUBJ
stituted, but from the standpoint of
fashion white only is correct for the
girls wear, oolors being reserved for
widows who have preference for
vioets and erays. Handsome satin and
silk are always worn, but for the
time the preference is given to satin
and to chiffon which makes the most
| ideal bridal garment one can conceive.
| Cut and treatment follow much the
general lines Of the season, but fixed
regulation forbids the smallest attempt
at decollete and the skirt must be as
long as possible, the train ample.
Seven .gored, five gored and circular
models are all worn, but nothing Is
better for the heavy materials than the
| tive-gored that flares freely at the feet
and is finished with gradu ated cir
oular fiounoe. Such skirt fits we'll
and is essentially graceful. Where lace
il to be used it becomes foundation,
but is beautiful with only the addition
of full ruches of Liberty or mousseline
a the edge and where it joins the skirt.
There is at present demand for tho
charming diaphanous materials as
trimming for heavy silks that is to be
commended from every point of view.
The ruches on the satin are charming
yet simple in the extreme. Lace ia, of
course, always worn, that is lace Of
any real sort, either as tiounoes or
drapery, but under no circumstances
must a bit of the imitation enter into
the gown, and | confess to deep.
seated preference for handsome sim
plicity over anything fussy or com:
plioated. Chiffon tiounces over silk are
charming and are lovely beyond q
doubt, but by allsmeans let the lines oil
ths long sweeping skirt remain intact.
Lace that is priceless Or an heirloom
is the only excuse for drapery, in my
judgment at least.
Bodices are preferably either blousJ
or in bolero style. An exceed ingly
handsome model includes bolero o.
point lace over a deep draped bodice o.
panne velvet, with the yoke and higt
stock of tucked chiffon with tiny
apploues Of lace, unlined, and the lonl
sleeves made with the upper portion o
satin like the skirt lace from the elbow
, down, with flare cuffs at the wrist, ant
, a puff of the chiffon between the lao
! and silk serving TO unite the two
, Another ia II Blouse Of satin with yok
and deep belt of the lace There is ,
, decided tendency toward trEsparen
, stocks for all indoor gowns and thos
! of lace and chiffon are surely charming
on bridal gowns.
i, Chiffon gowns are for the NEST par
tucked over both skirt aad bodice. Tn
!, lovely soft material lerds itself TO tn
!, treatment and the result is billow
q wilderness that is singnlarly lovely wor
a by IL girl bride. Skirts are full an
q laid in horizontal tucks two inohe
: wide from the waist or yoke deptl
below, to the head Of the flounoe whicl
y is pelisse, as full as it can be made
and finished with soft quillings. BE
4 meath all this loveliness must be tn
= foundation skirt of soft silk fitted witt
N care, and plain underskirt of ohiffo
a to veil 1t and preserve the essentis
ii quality of the material. Appliques c
N lace are used and are exceedingly hand
"a some, but just such skirt as / hay
a described is truly beautiful and nigh
/ well satisfy any bride.
"a The chiffon bo1ices combine lact
panne velvet and panne satin with th
ar thinner material in a way that yer
~ nearly defies description. Tucks thel
II must be, but beyond that there is lit
az law. Onesof tue prettiest l have SEE
"a has tiny bolero with long snug sleeve
- of guipure beneath which Is drape
~ girdle of panne satin with full tucke
10 bodice above. The tucks are perpel
n dioular and tiny. and yoke, sleeves at
ia stock are unlined. Sashes are muc
40 worn, and exceedingly graceful,
HI uoNSity Nlo uop Va u
ra chiffon with rounded ruche. fnishs
at ends arranged to fall from the bel
20 beneath the boero to the edge of Il
as train. One gown, sent from the 9th
II side, is peculiarly novel and essential
re chic. The hodice proper is a blouse
satin, which material also makes II
no skirt, while the drapad girdle and ga.
~ are of chiffon. The latter is extreme
Il full and arranged in box plaits at ea(
he side the full front of lace to give
boero effect, is taken back over Il
be shoulders, then passes under the grid
nj and forms sash ends. With all the
nv gowns wells of tulle will be worn, he
~ in place by jewelled pms or natur
h. flowers as preferred. Lace wells a
10 beautiful as matter of course, b
At they are somewhat less light and dain
n. in effect than the tulle, and for til
ne reason are often discarded, even VIII
ia their cost is not stumbling bloc
The tender filmy quality of the tut
pe is not readily outdone and it has t
~ added merit of yelling without CO
ceaing the gown. Suede gloves of t
exact shade IF the gown and slippe
OF the material If it be silk or sati
satin with chiffon trimming, if chitf
yer makes the gown, are the correct acct
sories. Jewels are little worn.
ii. pendant or pin for the veil in pearls
ed diamonds that is the gift Of the grooI
,ry Or some heirloom is apt to make t
he only ornament.
,ah The going away gown, with us, ia