The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-10-28
THE TRIUMPHANT TAILOR
Plain Skirts Are Still Preferred for
Outdoor Wear.
Empire Styles Arc Much in Vogue,
However, and Fashions Pathway
Is One Of Shining GOld-GlittcrinE
Tissue Must Share It's Lnurels with
Mock Gems - Quicksilver Silk.

Just to think. after all the vain prophe-
eying of the fashion chroniclers plain tail
or-made skirts are going to hold their own
through this coming season. or course
there are TUNES of all shapes and sizes
In abundance, but it is to the plain skirt
that fashions devotees are going to pin
their faith. Unfortunately. all that has
been taken away from them in surplus
length is more than made up to them in
breadth. and the task of holding them up
from muddy pavements is as arduous as
ever
All that savors of the empire style, how
ever, is still very much in vogue. In the
ltreet gowns the trimming. more than the
positive cut of the gown, gives this desired
infect. A striking model made of dark blue
:amei's-hair had an empire enec; given
BY It's trimming of black astrakhan,
;hough in reality it was built on the
ltrictest princesse lines. 1t was absolutely
,love-ftting, with the fullness az the back
mppiied by round box pleat. Around the
,ot;om i; fiared N a series of regular
;odets that were ornameIted with crossed
lands CT steel guipure. Stripes of the as
rakhan were wrought into short bolero
With the ends reaching to within few
inches of the bottom OF the gown. These
increased in length as they descended, and
we're finished with points at the ends.
Bands of steel guipure laced the bolero
icross the front. The close-fitting sleeves
we're finished with pointed fiaring cuffs OF
lstrekhan that extended quite over the
lands.
This is the season when new materials
are declared. Until October they are held
we'll in the background, but come forth
with the first cold wave. Cachmire
d'allemange is one OF the fabrics that
will grow more popular as the season ad
vances. 1t is like cashmere. but it is an
Improvement upon it. 1t is SO smooth and
SO highly finished that 1t is impossible to
tell 1t from the more expensive cloths.
The Countess de Castellane, who has
the newest of everything, has a gown in
caehmire d'allemange. II is in the new
London red which is called postillion red.
The skirt has flare around the foot, ac-
complished by the Introduction of fam
like rufIles at frequent intervals. Instead
of plain fans there are bias rufies of
-rloth, much newer than the conventional
fan plating.
Astrakhan cloth is the newest conner
into the ranks of rough goods. 1t is
about the weight of camel'E-hair and has
long silk threads hanging from the sur
face. a lovely piece in emirence red had
long silver hair-like threads hanging from
it. and was very pretty. This new as
trakhan was ordered as the material for
q gown to be fashioned for the Princess
Victoria Of England. Undoubtedly both
her sisters, the Princess Carl and the
Duchess Of Fife. will have gowns of the
same piece; for the daughters of the
Prince Of Wales insist upon dressing
alike. though two of them are married.
Paris started the gold craze but her
daughter did not, at once, take to the gilt
tering paraphanalia that now adorns their
gowns. They were content, at first, with
brass buttons and few buckles. but now
everything has its trimming of gilt.
Some Of the handsomest gowns are
banded with gold tissue, and. upon the
gold tissue there are beautiful mock gems
sewed at frequent intervals. Gold but
tons, Some Of them exquisitely fligreed,
are used as trimmings. and instead Of q
rcsette you see button OF gold where
the rosette used to be. Panels Of them
are used down the side Of the skirt
Yokes. with the entire surface covered
with buttons, are seen in ell the lighter
shades OF cloth.
Quicksilver silk and Madeira embfof-
derry are two conspicuous features Of
dress at this moment. The former is SO
named because of the remarkable glitter
OF its finish, glitter that is more intense
than that OF a satin surface, and which
only appears in the folds of the silk not
upon the fat surface Gorgeous evening
silks watered in large and small rings is
a novelty, but newer and richer in ap-
pearance are the heavy black and white
silks that are watered in designs CT f1ow-
ers. Flowers in single huge blossoms,
bouquets, or garlands and showing far
more effectively than when embroidered
CT damasked.
Ove- all these the Madeira embroidery
casts its delicate design in panels ard
hands. 1t is a silk embroidery done en-
silk. All the unworked material is cut
away when the pattern is completed, and
the result effected is very much that Of
heavy. gorgeously colored lace
of course. it ts necessary, just now. to
sound the note Of the approaching win
ter. Therefore, the little vest of fur is
in season. 1t need not be necessarily OF
fur, for rough cloth will do Just as well.
1t can also be of astrakhan, which is a
rough cloth with long silky threads
hanging from the surface. something like
camel's- hair.
In all the fine gowns that are being
shown In Paris now there is a note OF COM
fort for they are so easily copied In mex
peusiNc SOous w Tue rue Oe Ia falX,
writes a correspondent in the French capt.
tai. there lives az. American girl whose
entire livelihood is earned in the design
ing Of inexpensive gowns to take the place
of the mere expensive Paris models. One
OF these young women makes a specially
of the selection Of soft fine cloths which
che substitutes for satins. All the exqui-
site models that cost fortune to design
and carry out are copied by her deft nm
gers In cheaper goods. When completed
you can scarcely tell the substituted gowns
from the originals, il the work be carried
out we'll
Imitation lace is substituted for the
fashionable Point de Paris. Valenciennes
Bruges. and Chantilly and the cheapest
lace takes the place of the more expensive
Russian laces. In taffeta and silks of all
kinds che is specially fortunate for she can
use silk for a few cents yard to take
the place Of that which costs high price.
It is easy to accomplish the appliqnes, and
sven the 5rocaded effects. If you are will
Ing to use your handiwork.
1t is a season of laces. fine and OF the
heavier grades. Valenciennes lace is the
popular lace for narros. trimmings such
as fchus and ruffies, but in the piece there
are varieties just as fine, yet more decided.
Lierre lace is much worn, so also are Gu
ny and Chantilly- All the Russian laces
are in style and a magnificent showing
they make with their raised patterns. TN
dcrneath these fine laces there is sewn
very lightweight gold Tissue, which CLEANS
pfcttily through In the handsomest
gowns there may be mentioned one that
wns made of rose pink taffeta, ovcrlaid
with cream chiffon. Beautiful appliqucs of
lace were placed upon the front breadth
Of the chiffon skirt, and upon the waist. SO
as to form a vest. Underneath the lace
was fine gold tissue.
Tarlatan makes a very good substitute
for chiffon. and particularly for the new
GRADES of this material There Is a chit