The Washington weekly post., 1900-03-27

Winter is beginning 10 taper or and give
Wy tU spring. and fuTs which are the
dear delight Of yhe feminine heart, must
l. discarded what shall take the place
O. -..rl s1rtcnlEg and becoming adjuncts
O. rle winters wardrSSeg
T.a. year oJr butterfly OF fashion has
taken a new course. she no longer Sc
i-a.s her spring wrap as a kind Of cocoon
ia which 30 eucase herself w-s4le the year
end t1r fashions are az period "a ..an-
s.aa. and out % which she fUtters in
fsa fuu glory % her spring regalia. The
wraps for the spring OF 1870 are far from
srv comparison with such un0rnamental
fa.G4s 8s C0cOOns.
They are the most fanciful. elaborate,
and novel affairs which have shown
themselves FOR many a year. and such
ih.rg aS "a plain. tailOr-made jacket Will
b. q rarity this season,
ia fagg the tailOr-made girl has dis
appeared so completely that there is
scarcely relic Of her left, unless Il be In
r-p popular use OF stitchings and in the
rrd- finish Of the garments worn by her
yucress1r-Jue woman of friAs, huffs.
bows and b5n-bons
The woman OF to-day. in her spring
wrap which IS either an E,ton Jacket or a
.a-.tg lIrle cape. Is a thoroughly edible
looking thing. She makes you think of
tar dainty display in a confectioner's
window, iced cakes. crystallized fruits.
psiacHe ana strawberry ices, and sweets
o. the sweetest sorti
Costly end PerishabIe.
Her wrap 10 be worn on those nipping
days of spring when a touch of winter
fFs no ,fr -
p-risAsO.e product OF the dressmakers
ur-
10 is made Of panne velvet, satin. taf-
fs,a or corded silk, and usually is COW
cred aIl over with sprawling designs of
.ygIeI and stitched brOadclOth, passe-
meu,erie embroidery or elaborate braid
iags and trimmings Of jet.
The keynote OF the styles IS elabora-
uol u seems utterly impossible to think
"i any combination OF trimmings or work
upon the material that would be too
much for the fashion.
High Medici collars and reveres adOrn
almost all Of the jackets, and these are
81 an extreme and ddshing cut They
are faced with white cream, fawn color.
tr any contrasting shade, and are intri-
oately trimmed with apphqued lace, cut
Steel and ornaments OF jet and braid
!lgs
The Eton jacket leads the style and
j. pushing the three-quarter length coat
10 the background, though many are TO
be seen, made of satin, black, peau de
sole and silk. These have all hall marks
aId Of the latest mode upon them, and
are also elaborately covered with ap-
piqued designs in cloth, with an outline
..f nd
braid, used as an outline when the ap-
pied design is Of a large pattern.
The bell-shaped or slightly flowing
Steve Is seen upon all the most recent
coats, whether of Etcn or long cut, and
no fashionable woman can afford to ig-
Iore its presence. Sometimes the daring
bell is finished at the hand in sca!lops, or
often with band OF stitched silk or sew
eral bands Of narrow fringed braid. When
the bell cuff does not appear, a deep
turned back one is used to give much the
same effect of a sleeve that MIdenS as IL
reaches the wrist.
Jackets short in Back.
Most OF the EtOn jackets are cut short
at the back, and longer in front, with
something OF a dip over the stomach.
Many Of them have revere fronts, which
open and turn back 10 reveal the pretu-
est soft vests, made of folds or tucks, or
sIirrings Of filmy white materials, upon
which are bands of Venetian insertions.
Sometimes a pretty little stoElacner or
chemisette appears gathered at the back
upon two or three little ribbons OF black
velvet which tie in front with little bows
and taSseled ends
one Of the prettiest Etcn coats seen this
Season was for reception, a luncheon,
O. Tor the carriage. The material was OF
back panne velvet, upon which clover
leaves in black jet pasSementerie We're ap
l.ed. each one bOrdered and outlined with
,-J7steel beads. The high collar and far
Hg reyorcs We're faced with gray satin,
over which a tucked piece Of crepe hsse
Was laid, which was covered with the
same clover leaves of'jet, outlined in steel
beads A band Of jetted lace, through the
-hjersuces Of which i CauZe ribbon OF
Pearl gray was run, passed across the
uaCA, under the arms. and met in front
JUST al the point where the left revere
crossed TO form the dOuble-breasted front.
Here the gauZe ribbon was caught into a
lumuer Of short loops, TO form a large
'hou at the bust, and the ends, which
were given a little weight and a pretty
iIIsh by delicate scroll of cut steel
beads. fell far below the jacket and near
~ halfway down the skirt.
tapes, too, are TO be much worn. These
are mostly of pearl gray, or OF n soft,
!aNn-colored cloth. But many are made
OF black SILK, or lace, and often with a
ringing OF white, black, and cream laces,
teiFet ribbons, and Tuches OF gauze. Per
maps the taWn and pearl cloth capes,
winch are covered with white stitchings,
tihdinEs. ana silk cord, are the most
s.AAsh for general wear. But for occa-
s."Aa oI Iul dress. the little lace cares are
indispensable. No cape should be with
tAl d. high collar, which is cut rather
.sis', and open about the throat, so that
J. may not be too warm for summer wear
ana VII not crush the dainty jabots and
nun s-aris that will adorn the neck this
seasUn.
Some Stylish Capes.
The most stylish cane l have seen. and
one Which will b. suitable for almost any
occasion is made OF black cloth. upon a
-'-''"@,-'h oi white Janeta. The collar
'Lu yoke Wer" closely stitched with rows
,l heavy white silk s,itchines. and below
lAe yoke the black cloth Was put ON a
-.S.s7loa OF circular pieces which were
.-.-'' HH'7 OF white stitching as a border
--. slightest movement or breeze will
...' 'A' collar bands, which overlap each
'.Arr, and show the white foundation. A
..tEt OF black crepe usse. stitched in
VINO. and bordcred by narrow band OF
.--'y insertion, was caught al the
.'..'l below the curving collar and dec
.....a inr front Of the cape
haa'h'f artssy cape was black corded
'.A. which was almost covered with
l.,1.s ~. very narrow gauze ribbon. The
'''s NJ -ucAing covered the main body OF
..# cape. bat 81 was bordered with a fall
g A.aEy black lace. which was in turn
I.ia'r-d with alternate bands % Quilled
velvet ubbon and ruchings ef the gauze
rthon.
'apas are generally long enough 10 come
YEA TO the line Of the curve al the hip,