Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-09-15
Lighter Court Mourning Demands
Mauve and Violet.
STYLISH MODELS In BLACK Serge
Gold and Metallic Effects in New
Embroideries.
1880 SKIRTS ARE THE THING
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.

PARIS, September /, 1900.
The deaths of the Grand Duke of Sake
Coburg- Gotha and of King Humbert of
Italy, plunging. they have. most of the
royal houses of Europe into mourning. will
have a depressing effect on fall and winter
fashions. More somber colors being
called for and mauve and violet are again
much in demand.
The Princess of Wales has Just had COM
pleted a very handsome gown. which is the
criterion of smartness in that line for the
season. The material used is black silk,
while the trimming consists of lace and vel
vet bows. The sleeves are made with upper
and under sections, are tight-ftting above and
trimmed with lace and insertion. The skirt
is made to appear of the five gored cut. but
in reality has only three. One of the seams
runs down the center of the back. and
lace founce. shaped shorter in the back
than the front, trims the skirt. The blouse
front opens over plated fulnesS of the
silk. and graduated cascade of black Grape
trims the bodice from shoulder to waist.
The blouse is plated at the waist to a close
fitted lining.
For black ties feathers and flowers there
has sprung up the greatest demand among
the fashiOnables: likewise for all goods in
black and white and the purple shades of
half mourning. Tailored gowns both blacks
and grays, are being made in large num-
berS, while trimmings of lilac heliotrope.
lavender and mauve suddenly elevated
into popularity.
Black serge gowns are regarded as espe-
eially smart for mourning wear of the more
serviceable sort. For more dressy effects
one model commended itself both on ac-
count Of its daintiness and its chic. 1t was
of white silk crepe de chine over black
yelled with white chiffon. The long slightly
trained skirt trimmed with lace above
which came little group of narrow tucks
and then a narrow band of insertion the
skirt being SHAPED above with a LODI
yoke. The bodice of lace was made with a
transparent yoke. encrcled on the shoulders
by folds of draped crepe de chine fashioned
into chou al one side, under which long
sashlike ends of the crepe de chine fell like
stoles almost to the hem Of the skirt This
sash was embroidered and trimmed at inter
walls with lace, which gave it a very rich
appearance.
Small Hats for Fall
The hats for fall wear are scarcely pic
turesque. Too many Of them are ON the
style of the Ladysmith hat, a shape suited
TO few faces. There are vast number Of
hats of pain felt. simply ornamented with
bands or with wing or a quill as the sole
trimming. Such hats are serviceable for
rough weather or walking, but are seldom
seen on fashionable women after the hour
OF noon, ana IN the city are scarcely worn
at all Madame or mademOiSelle at her
chateau delights in hats OF this sort They
are just the thing for morning rambles
beautiful roads in her newest automobile
am told that one of the fads of the win
ter Will be the Iayishness of gold embroi-
derles and metallic effects in ribbons in en-
DroiderieS- For some time we have been
treated to anticipatOry hints to this effect,
but row it is authoritatively stated The
Use OF gold threads in outlining embroi-
dering patterns on chiffon and mCussene
seems 10 be one of the chief decorative eff
fects for the winter evening gowns The
metallic threads some times shaded 10
produce really fine effects. Dull coppers
and silver are used with advantage too.
All this richness has a semi-oriental sug-
gesuVeness harmOniZng well with the ten
dency To use oriental fabrics and oriental
effects Some of the new silks are real inn
portations Of Arabian, Hindoo and Eeyp-
uol patterns These have been initiated
by the French looms so successfully that
they can scarcely be distinguished from the
antique oriental hand loom work
Trimming Fabrics.
Panne, changeable silks, leather-treated
fabrics. crepe de chine. crepe crystale and
brCcaded metallic effects are to be much
used In fashioning the richer garments OF
the coming season. They will. in fact &C.
cupy positions par excellence of popularity.
Satin delaine and fabrics OF that sort are
likely to have a good deal of vogue for
autumn wear. and they are very pretty
trimmed with lace Of the deep ecru shade
Velvet Is being used great deal as
trimming on cloth gowns, the material
being applied in narrow bands in shades
from the color of the cloth to one either
much darker or much lighter. When the
gown is quite plain. the applications of
bands border ii: when it has overskrt
or fiounce, the trimming borders the over.
skirt or dounce.
The bolero is still to be used a new
adaptation being a waistccat with long
pointed front pieces. which is to be worn
with tailor made gowns. With tailor-made