davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-14

There is no use in my trying TO keep my
church open after the first of july" says "A
good Pastor, piaintiyely, for the whole
town IS metamorrhosed into Mother Hub
bard brigade and shirt-Sleeve regiment"
With the going down OF the sun. however,
the Mother Hubbard folds its tentlike pro-
portions. and youth and beauty appear
again. Doors and windows are thrown wide
open. and in the crispest of muslins, with
much frou-frou of lace and fower-crowned
bair my lady issues forth prepared TO con-
auer and be conquered. Then the quaint
little town takes on the aspect of a bit OF
Old Mexico. Pretty senortas with scarlet
pomeSranate blossoms stuck coquettishIy in
their dark braids appear as by magic from
the low adobe houses, while gay Spanish
cavaliers with mandolins or guitars dance
attendance. but always under the SUPER
vision of a watchfui duenna. The band
plays on the plaza, horses and carriages
Dash eayly by. their bareheaded occupants
exchanging CHEEKY greetings as they pass:
q horseback cayaicade clatters along over
the perfect paving. the girls. in divided
skirts. riding cross saddle. like so many
Amazons. while the rat. tat. tat OF the in
slstent drum and stentorian notes of the
Salvation Army blend with the clink of
cowboy spurs and the click of the ivory
balls issuing from the wide-open gambling
house doors BY 10 o'clock hovever. the
pageant Is over. and the whole population
save the gamblers and the trcubadours with
their guitars. is asleep under the stars.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-14
In Furnishing the House.

| Here are a few ''dont's' which house-
| wives would do well to bear Ia mind ~
| .ney wish their rooms TO be not only in
| good taste. but artistic as well:
| Dont overload your rooms with furnl-
| tire or pictures. AZ
| Don't choose deliberately designed cur-
tains. hangings or tablecloths for a room
with floral paper '''
Don't waste your money on a whole ac
cumulatton of cheap bric-a-brac tso-cai,et,,
III only helps to gather dust and dirt.
Don't choose plain curtains with a uIaip
carpet and wallpaper.
Don't choose blue paper and white main,
Tor room. with a co!d-i e., northern
aspect.
Don't buy limitations OF good things I'm tho
way OF furniture If you cannot afford The
originals. do without. and content yoursaIt
to be. H'.'S
Don't indulge In painted milking stools
or painted drain pipes.
Don't waste your money on plush brack
cts, plush cup and saucer holders, or Painted
tambourincs. o
Don't drape your Iooking-giasses with ar,
muslin. or. for the matter OF that. with
ANYTHING at all.
chairs u Sour
Don't indulge in tides OF any kind.
Don't paint wreaths of flowers upo,
your parlor lookng-glasses.
Don't imagine that the plenitude of fur
niture means a well-furnished house II
does nothing OF the sort
Don't bay cheap saddle-bag yeIye- or
plush furniture. "
Finally. buy the least amount Of f,,rn,-
ture you can do with, and let il be or as
simple "A design az possible and your housa
Is sure TO be well furnished.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-14
GIRLISH FR0CKS
WITH TAILOR FINISH.
A Fashionable DreSsmaker Sup
plies Several MOdiSh
Designs.

WRITTEN FOR THE SATURDAY EErU1IIc.
\ Eirish summer frOCk need not always
be one that is airy and light and almost
childish in It's simplicity and daintin,s IS
While all the foregoing qualities are charm
ing, the Giri that is rot Yet out az her
teens must have few practical irocks TO
complete her warm-wcather wardrobe Just
what TO select for these costumes. which
must have a smart style about them, is
often a puzzle. A fashionable dressmaker
has suggested several pretty and su!ta bic
desisns. which are TO be found in sketches
on this page.
The drawings show the details of cut and
finish. AS TO the materials. duck, crash,
linen and lightweight woods may be chi
Iioyed in their construction.
The sailor style of bodice is always be-
coming TO young person, and If wanted
for outing wear. and where subjected to
the whiting influences OF dampness. a blue
serge or one o: creamy white. with blue
trimmings. would he most satisfactory. Dull
red serge for country wear IS also much
liked for young girls. Gowns Of the style
here mentioned will not only 90 nicely for
the summer season, but will co duty hate
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-14

The revival OF old-time full uudersieevcs
Is happily welcomed more because OF Its
novelty. / believe, than for any beauty the
fashion may lay claim to. for il Is certain
that the present way of wearing UNDER
sleeves appears more clumsy than graceful
They seem to be out of harmony with the
balance OF the costume. Now, when there
was crinoine, and skirts were voluminous
The baggy undersleeyes were in keeping
but the trim and trig cut of the up-to-date
gown-but. no GOubt soon the entire gown
and figure outline viii take on an air Of
quaintness. In fact, the fichu and bertha
already on hand suggest. too, the styles
OF the sixties. am in favor of the dainty
undersleeve, though would caution its too
hasty adoption. one pretty form of the I'M
dersleeve is to be found in lace that hts
the forearm smoothly. This belongs to a
gu1mpe with lace yoke that is worn under 4
bodice with plain sleeves that come TO he
elbow and end there in a point. Around
the shoulders of the bodice there is pref
Just at the bust line. The lace undersleeye
points Gown well over the back of the hand
The loose undersleeve was originally de-
signed for wear with flowing or angel
sleeves. In number of pretty new tea
gowns the flowing sleeve appears with I'M
dersleeve OF plain. fine net, banded at the
wrist with lace insertion and a frill of lace
the band to be buttoned at the
wrist with handsome round gold
sleeve button like our grandmothers
used TO wear. If you have among
your relics a pair of heavy gold sleeve but
tons. enameled with black, you may bring
them out to fasten the wristbands of your
undersleeves. And the buttons with the bar
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-14
BABY'S PERAMBULATOR..
Summer Fittings for the Little
Ones Carriage.

The bed of the carriage should he filled
WITH cool and soft cushions for summer
Feathers make the best winter cushions
AIR pillows for baby's head and body are
comfortable and will help TO stave off
prickiy heat. Cushion covers should he
washable, stout and seryiceable as we'll as
cool. wa vs.
The smartest shades this season are made
OF pique, trimmed with washing lace and
are mounted on brass frame with fitted
straps Both oblong and round shades are
popular but the oblong cover is the most
sensible. il affords the most protection
from the sun. II is the sor; that is used
In the nursery of the Duchess of York. who
Is one of the most Intelligent mothers.
Pique covers are made d little more eiab-
crate than the former style with apli-
qued groups Of true lovers knots on the
pique. Sprigged or spotted muslin with
knitted frils, makes simple and dainty
shades.
All these should be lined. Green Is the
better lining for the eyes. but pale pink is
prettier, as 1t casts a soft glow over baby's
face.
In wheeling a perambufator always re-
member the rule in driving. For another
perambuiator or foot passenger turn out
to the right. Do not forge relentlassly ahead
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-14

Is oinlcuit TO describe exactly the effect of
the haiuSOineSt OF these gowns now being
worn az the various brilliant summer func-
tions' Tor, unfortunately. the dresses that
iilaht the greatest impression when worn
are as a rule. those which make the least
shoW on paper. their beauty and charm de-
peHhihE principally ON the combinations OF
coiot, the classic or artistic contour. figure
moIdins. and those effects which one has TO
see 10 appreciate their subtle impression.
Next TO platts. tuckinS and Insertion bands.
corning y perhaps the most fashionable
italufc OF dress trimming for thin summer
Gowns. kests and yukes Of India silk. lib
eIty satin. chiffon, null and taffeta are
shirred crossWisc ON fine cords in groups OF
three or five, and bOdices of transparent
material are corded horizontally TO form
SuinprS ana sleeves. or vertically the entire
iehSth OF the waist. with AN inch space be-
tween the cords. Various skirt trimmings
are formed of cords run into bias folds of
siik. Girdles ana pulley belts are made In
the same manner. and Ellen Terry and Iazi
neck ribbons are corded around the throat
\ number Of new French GOWNS show
Grecquc scarfs, fischus and skirt-topS shirred
on fine silk cord. and fancy muils and ba-
tLstes. with gathered corded stripes. made
UP over silk or satin foundations
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-14
NEW DESIGNS IN G|RLISH OUTDOOR COSTUMES

regardless OF others or run into unhappy
pedestrians who may not be prompt in get
ting out of the way. IL Is Sucn actions as
these that convert man tn cynical bach
eloThood and embit;cr a thinking woman
into adopting q career"
The perambulators with the bamboo or
wicker frames are most serviCeablo, for
they can be washed off time after time,
and. moreover. they are cool for the little
occupant. Boxes made entirely of wood
are ROW seldom seen. Convenience dictates
the position of the handles. Some persons
prefer them placed so that the child faces
the propeller: others prefer that the child
should be seated with the back tn the
handles. Small. threewheeled carts or
chairs do very well for the home garden.
but the covered perambulator Is much
safer fer the morning airing. slowed away
inside should be the oilcloth cover and side
pieces which are buttoned on as a rrotec-
ton from rain when ii is not possible TO
find shelter at once from some sudden sum
mer shower.
The perambulator sunshade should al
ways be adequate. One sees in the parks
and on the streets many handsome car
riages with elegant shades affordng 50 lit
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-14

into the fall. service that is always ap
preciated.

into the fall. service that is always ap-
preciated.
The bolero jackets that are SO fashion
able just now depend much for variety mp
on the collar or revers that finishes them.
One of the prettiest new collars that the
clever woman may cut and make for her
self is illustrated here The original of this
was on a blue duck suit. the bolero jacket
worn over white lawn blouses. The collar
was of white butchers linen, with heavy
linen lace frilled around the deep points.
The same pattern of collar might be made
of ivory white satin. with lace finish. to
wear with taffeta silk Jacket.
A very lovely French waist is made of
the sheerest of white lawn. The yoke is
eut slightly on the bias from fine piece Of
''all-over' lace, and embroidery insertion
and tucks, such as can now be purchased
ready made by the yard. Both back and
front are slightly fui!cd TO the yoke. the
back, however. being laid In plaits that
narrow down to the waist This is a pref
~ style for a slender figure. and one that
Is so simple In construction that the anna
teur seamstress may attempt IL.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-14

gown. with big white hat simply trimmed
with the same material. or plain mink
muslin iichu over a pink figured gown. with
the plain pink trimmings on the hat.
4 Failure.
More years than | shall name
! sought to win a good wifc's fame,
knew not hov'-hut all the same
made a shirt.
cut / stitched with many a tear:
followed u OUT. both front and rear
L carved the srnholes wide, for fear
They wouldn't tit.
Johns neck I measured 10 be true
The band must ft-that much | knew
I'd hear: 30 Oft. All else | drew
And puck.red in.
~ last twas done. a work Of art,
C.n.rlctc. hoped. in every mart
Try on YOUR shirt
! must confess II bugcd somewhat
~ pace where ] though, I should not
But Jchn. the brute. yelled out. Great Scott,
Is this 'ent?'
And such behavior-language weut
lac uttered things III never tell
Nay forget them when l dwell
In higher spheres.
Oh woman Of the present day
To you's Inscribed this tinv law
lou little know the man Won nav
Your homage TO.
II his true inwar,ness'' vou.a t,,,
ia,c him yOur idols overthrow
And sentiment to four winds bjov
Make hun a shirt.
The Literau!an.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-14
WEAR MOTHER HUBBARDS."
Women Who Enjoy the Comfort of
Il Loose Gown.

The Mother Hubbard" derided by man
and long tabooed by the women of the East,
is still the summer garment par excellence in
The Salt River Valley. Arizona. says the New
York Tribune. With the mercury standing
day in ard day out. anywhere from ia to 10
degrees in the shade. and higher on occa-
sion. the poInps and vanities OF life are quite
:cI gotten. and the end and aim of existence
is simply 10 keep cool. When the + lstcvn
women. who 80 to Arizona for their health
first arrive. they Invariably declare that
They. at least. will never he guilty o: 4
Mother Hubbard" bat after few weeks
of shirt waists or even dressing sacks, the
last vestige of sartoriai pride vanishes. and
the Crstwhilc "tailor-made-gtrl'' takes on
the semblance OF a full-bIown hollyhock.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-14

suddenly disappear with the spring return
with midsummer. and. as usual. there are
picture hats loaded with them. But in many
cases the same effect is obtained with
clouds and bows of tulle, and the long
plumes are not considered necessary. All
are bent in all possible ways. Broad hats
are Of fine straw. while the fashionable tur-
bans and toquets are of IN extremely
coarse. braided straw. For light hats erin
Is better than the lace straws which are
now too often seen in cheap limitations.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-14
NIce-LOOklng Table Linen.

professional laundresses do not starch
tablecloths and napkins. They wash and
dry them. and instead of sprinkIing each
piece as IL Is ready to be ironed 1t isdipped
wringer tightly set and ironed until quite
dry. This gives a beautiful gloss and lust
enough body to prevent impness
Napkins should be ironed out full size and
then folded loosely by hand. no creases he
ing pressed in. Tablecloths for ordinary
use may be ironed with one fold and then
FOLDED loosely, but fine clothe for Special
occasions are ironed without any crease
then folded once loosely and rolled on a
SSessed ct when the cloth IL laid By slip.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-14
For the Guest Room.
New Simmer Fabrics,

Toile de sole is a new material very much
like tulle and is made with SPRAYS OF flow
ers TO cover its delicate surface. 1t Is one OF
the prettiest of the summer fabrics. Grena-
dimes were never so sumptuous as this year,
made. they are. with all sorts Of rich
embroideries applied to their surfaces and
all manner of rich and dainty shades
brought out by the manufacturers are. Silk
embroidered muslns are expensive. but they
are lovely and are capable probably Of
many future transformations. as their
vogue is likely to continue. with some modis
fcations. through another season.
Fine light fabrics through which run bars
of lace or inset fanciful pieces of the lace.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-14
POnn.arIty Of Mcss Jacket.

The popularity nf the bolero is most de-
cidedly on the wane. The tafYetas jackets
are as popular as they promised to be two
months ago. but not in the bolero shape.
The mess jacket. high TO the neck and
with little point behind seems To be the
successor Of the holero. To wear with sum-
Ter muslins these are very smart. of mil
itary red or blue silk trimmed with small
gold buttons and a little gold braid. writes
"A Paris correspondent to a New York eX-
change.
Sleeves are very full at the elbows A
decided bag there. draped mp on the inside
of the arm. is pretty. Sometimes a little
turn UP cum is added to the bag; sometimes
th.. bag consists Of - series of these cuffs,
and sometimes i: is made Of several pleats.
IL Is difficult to describe the new sleeves.
for each dressmaker strives for original ef
fccts, and NJ sooner is Il styi. made popu-
lar than II is followed by another.
Summer hats for the most part set well
off the head and the usual trimming is a
wreath of flowers. These lowcr-crowned
hats come in all shapes. for. whatever the
shape. the flower wreath is always fashion,
able and dispenses with any other trim
ming. A variation of this idea is a half
wreath that tumbles over the hrim on the
hair For some reason ostrich feathers that
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-14
Gowns of Point d'Esprft.

The prettiest of summer frOcks are Of
point d'esprit. There Is something 50 cs-
sentially dainty about them and the dots
on the net IN some way suggest a light.
frothy "Summeryness" that is pdrtcu-
larry charming. They need to be made up
very simply with a few rufies on the
skirt fichu effect drapery around
the bodice edged with rufhes and these #
desired edged with narrow white satin
ribbon. The sleeves of some of these
point d'esprit gowns are shirred around the
arm the full length.
The hchu is developing. The fichu is so
pretty and becoming In any form that there
is nothing which has a better right to de-
velop III II is so minded. But think OF A
big soft ruffle-edSed fichu which fastens
with big bow in front and then allows ats
long ends to pass from the bust down to the
waist line. sloping back and then bowling
again in the center of the back with more
soft bows trifle large. while the long ends
nanS nearly to the bottom of the skirt.
The developed fchu has a charmingiy
quaint and oldtime effect and is particularly
pretty when IL is. say. a muslin fschu with
Dig SOFT pink roses on a white ground or
the flowers hrouch, out in white on a pink
ground, worn over a simple little white
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-14

tie protection that they condemn the little
occupants of the carriages to the most in
tense suffering. When the baby is taken
out by nursemaid or by one OF the young
er children. the shade ought to be one that
VIII protect the face of baby no matter
how the position of the sun may vary. I'm
fnense injury is done to childr"ns eyes by
the carelessness o. nursemails In allowing
their charges TO sleep with the sun shining
directly into their eyes
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-14
What One Woman rh,uk..

r rom The PhiIadelphia Times
don't do it. Wv "e'
a shirt-waist trunk Is the latest convent.
ence for the summer girl
when she Is only Very much in earnest
ITS strange that the man who knows n
all turns his knowledge to SO little precticai
account
You can learn more about a person when
II IS five minutes too late than Ia five years
before. " S
We are always particularly pleased with
ourselves when some one else voices our
opinions. ~
The bathtnb Is one Of the greatest com-
town all summer ~ ~' -
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-14

Swallow Girls Boarding School. The school
Is attended mainly by daughters OF native
CHRISTIANS. They receive primary and in
tcTmsdiate instruction. and are taught
houscw1Tk. sewing and weaving, Gr3du-
atcS from this school are employed as
teachers at 81 month in the seven village
SO
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-14

Faded silks can be restored by being
sponged with weak ammonia water ard
afterwards rubbed with soft cloth. Old
black silks are improved by sponge bath
or spirit and water and cloth dresses by
being brushed with blue water After the
gown has been beaten and busted thor
ougbly dip the bristles of a ciOthesbrush
into blue water and brush the dress
quIC KY. To remove grease spots from a
skirt Of wooden OF other material use benz
zine Cnpack the mem or band of the skirt
and lay n piece of flannel or blotting paper
beneath the soil above IL put a second
piece OF blotting paper, and on this rest a
hot iron until the stain is removed.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-14
THE HOUsEKEEPER's scRAPBOOK.

Manifold is human strife.
Human passion. human pain:
Many 4 blessing yet is rife.
Many pleasures still remain.
Yet the greatest bliss in life.
And the richest prize we find,
Is good, Contentcd mind.
ha
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-14

tive and inexpensive tubular and fancy
braids. with scalloped shell of picot edges.
which are a pleasing form OF trimming on
ehambrJys, French zephyrs, piques, and
French ginshams.
transparent materials continue to hold n
very prominent place among summer
dress toilets. Costly and beautiful gowns
OF India muslin. Italian crepe, mousseline
briliiante. barge, grenadine. etamine, silk
null. crepe royal, crepe de chine and Wat
teau gauze are all greatly in evidence II
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-14
Tried and Found wantin..

From Stray Stories
She: Il don't know what you mean by
bringing me through a place ike that.
am sure my dress Is all torn"
He: well! But offered TO carry vou"
She: ''Onered TO carry me~ '
He: What more could I do,''
She: Perhaps you could have carrtsA
me-" 0~
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-14
THE YOUNG MANS DEN.
An Acceptable Gift That May Find
a Place There.

women always complain about the diff
cuity IN nnding acceptable presents for the
men whom they wish to favor on Dirt hdays
Shristnas or other festal occasions Here
Is suggestion which may help a mother
sister or sweetheart out of trouble says
the New York Press. Every man has a
Gen or wants to have or ought to have
even II he prefers to call his own room by
another name. The young colIegian es-
peclaily goes about industri0usly picking up
everything from signs to hearpins where
with TO acorn his apartment. Nothing can
piease MIN better than something individual
,or this beloved retreat. For this purpose
ms coat or arms or those OF his college or
Oh ms secret society or any other insignia
pertaining 10 anything that belongs TO him
OF upon which he sets particular value is
admirable. Such affairs are got up now
adays IN peculiarly attractive style The
letters or design are embossed in colors or
carried out In enameled silver upon a small
shield OF leather. framed In silver and
mounted on larger shield of heavy oak
III the oak can be obtained from some old
Soiege or ancestral building so much the
Inese coats OF arms can be got I'D at
sfnaii cost II a woman knows how 10
treat the leather with colors. and many
nave learned the art since typography he
came popular. but II one has 10 depend
whoIy on the art OF the silversmith rbev
become TOO expensive for any but the rich
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-14

of coral fastened on them are the daiutiest
thing possible to close the fine lace sleeves.
MARY HANDY.
The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, 1900-07-14
NOVELTIES N FASHION.

Coiored silk laC-s arr some OF the new
things seen on the pretty new gowns.
They match exactly the materials with
which they are used.