Evening star., 1900-10-13
Cedar Brown and Oyster Gray Are
the Correct Tones.
NOVELTIES In DRESS GOODS
But Cashmere and Serge Have
Come Back to F ayor.
THE NEW JACKET WAIST
Special Correspondence Of The Evening Star.

Special Correspondence Of The Evening Star
NEW YORK, October IL, 1900
Figured goods, whether silk or wool, have
all been ignominiously retired to the bar
gain counters. A stripe or dot is permit
ted. Of course; indeed, they are never out
of fashion, but all the cashmeres. winter
vofles, fannels etc, that are to be wrought
into gowns show none but plain surfaces.
The dots and stripes will do their duty in
the field Of shirt waist manufacture. and
meanwhile to linger at a counter where the
new silks are spread forth is to enjoy an
artistic treat Satin aiglon, crepe nubienne
and Venetian panne are the richest and new
est fabrics Of them all. AS to satin proper
there Is little none Of 1t called into use
by the dressmakers this season. and the
satin du jour, satin aiglon and satin Alger-
ienne that we hear and see so much Of are
no more than very rich silks with sheeny
finish that sometimes is iridescent.
SAT- aiglon, for example, is the goods OF
which the pictured evening gown is
wrought. 1t is ain the new color called
snow white, which is white enough when
spread fiat before the eye, but changes to
a strange violet tint when tossed into folds.
A full frill Of white accordiOn-pleated chif-
fon ripples at the foot of the skirt over an
underpleating Of violet silk. The same
treatment appears on the bodice, and an
applique of cream white Malta lace glitter
ing with gold threads sufficiently decorates
Braid Decoration.
There continues a general use of heavy
silk braid in Louis XVI patterns on the stiff
gowns. Many women prefer, when buying
satin-faced cloths to trim the surface OF
the goods but slightly. and give the beauti-
full quality of the cloth a chance to. be ap
preciated. The clearest explanation Of how
this is done Is given In the sketch Of an
extremely smart afternoon walking suit.
The goods In this instance is particularly
rich looking earth-mold brown satin-faced
suiting. made up with a cafe au lait silk
bodice and black silk figure braid. The
silk finely tucked, forms the snugly fitting
undersleeves, collar and vest, while below
the cloth bolero 1t blouses out quite plain.
A reference should be made here to the
growing favor Of brown this season and
the almost limitless gradations of tones
which the dyerS seem now able to produce.
So caressing and warm are many Of the
shades In which brown goods can now be
bought that even very pale or sallow
woman can choose a tone that will lend to
her complexion both color and clarity
An extremely popular combination Is
brown with gray. and in fur this Is produc-
tive OF the happiest results. A pretty girl
was attracting great deal OF pleasant ad-
miration from her sister shoppers the other
day by her coat and skirt of cedar brown
serge. The coat was a fantastic little bo-
lero that displayed liberal portions of an
oyster gray silk shirt. Around her neck
went scarf of chinchilla ending in half
dozen fluffy mink tails, while an arrange
ment Of mink fur and large strass buckle
adorned her gray velvet toque.
The Use of Cashmere.
Serge and cashmere have recovered all
their old-tme popularity with women who
prefer their winter gowns at once warm
and light In weight. The vicunas, Vene-
tan cloths broadclothso and covert cloths
are warm enough. but too heavy to be