The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-11-25

V,,trs. A., IN. at,sWpt 10 faihnm n Ihs
eaibn, ~ tho hook iefofe ~ nnds sl thsit
,e,.rrlnas eprdsp.sd In y vigts s"n'sn'r ~
pfenytoln. beautiful woman 10 pur Who 10
untysr.aIlr rlaaalns and fifenpupia l. no
betirf abln ~ ~ tbs fest ~ sat vhy she "
tln,sip. 81 mo v.fe srrastrs ~ good hnuso.
vito n sntId ,o .,.v ,n catalogue her virtues
Ibrte ~ n charming woman. mover zach
ono h,, her oy,n s.,,s, Vel, tho art ~ charm.
inz Il D. d.su,aad To that art tho italian
rnre owed their r~n.l,ions n. regents II ~"
world lhsy were no, .nr.rint To French women
IN beauty n, form ot In ort.in,lt, ~ .onl. but
among Thorn thor. Net, more -honu'l'ul
wuir-n- that f. IN asv. captIv,tins women.
irrc,.,ihls ,on., t,an sl.owb,r, Tho, wers
imbued with patonic syec,n.ss. had nc-
unir.d An ,nde,,rhnbls ,n,xno,lsm. n pcrfume
Of human gracI,u.no.-. 90 pep.,rs,ing and
nil parysdins thu, 4, s.,m.d D, purlfy the mr.
md 10 mako Of the world n ,c,nplr instead NJ q
hoa.ltnl our nuthor for hia uar,. IL convinced
that. like NIL other nrt.. charm Il. a eft Of nature.
Ho in,gines tina, tn, Nr., rulo for n woman
4. 10 know her..l, Thoroughly. 40 hat abe mny
bring her individual Gift, discre.,ly into play.
especially tho.. which affect tho man she has In
view or course. II will not do 10 let her art
aptear. A woman'. charm depends upon her
acting srontanepu.ly syen though imperfectly.
Il IL probably imposslble 70 insist too strongly
on this prtnciplc. which. Of Itself. explains the
evolution OF woman, power In tho sixteenth
century So long a, women frankly assert
their per.onality IN their action. taking counsel
only Of ,hemselyss their mower never ceases
20 grow ard produces excellent results; but
WHOM. vb.,h.r from Indifference. timidity. ths
instinct o, .pbm,ssion or a mistaken educa-
ton. they no longer see In platonisn anything
bu, an art In learn n lesson 10 rattle of. n con
yentional bose. all Is over. mon Of real virIity
escape their Influence and deride their charm
"a n nierilo thing and the women And no men TO
povorn Inst ,ba insIpnIocant herd whom they
do not care n straw for. and who are distin-
Cuished. one from another, only by the color
of their trousers
n. nevertheless onnrt from originality. which
in indisren.able and dlversi,v. which IA essen
tlal NJ do Manila Ia (1aviar, deem, Il posi-
he 10 mention some elements that 60 to the
making Of charm elements corsecrated. an
parently. nv esperienos or tradition. OF
these. some are physical. some intellectual.
Iio begins by spc,Eing OF the former. and lays
down the general rule that the phySca charm
OF a woman sprinrs entirely from whatever
accentuatas hsr feminine arcb-f.minine. char
actor Tim, u must above all. EXPRESS the
connlet est mos, absolute sweetness For a
lnIl1 lima nj VA r. DINuT
10 snrlnz from prooef,lness OF form An d feature;
a face ~ ari.tocrotic ovol. n swan neck. a wasp
uais, f., .hor. n general effect OF reed-like
suab,ros, and trogiIi,v n variable m,ntel
orn,,,o,, a., doiica,.lv ho,o,csd ,h,, to touch
4, vas NOR. than ons dared and that one was
nu,zl.d how 40 fral "A thing had ever
managed =, stand ON such tiny feet,
IN hoId nh. s,ch moor little hand 80
IN one n vlryi,,l ec,,re Of fifteen yeare. This
wo,de,r,ily nurs ideal nersis,ed In Spain;
I'm, in It,ly one Of the first signs of decadence
xns IN. nrefereuco for more sensual forms.
The F1oren,in.s with their fastidious conception
~, el.vspce wer. el,,os, alons in resisting
the current. Firenz,ola did not yield 20 IL TO
any extent. and NJ mos, there was at Florence
n small section in favor Of muscle and robust
ness of whom Michael Angelo is the representa-
t,v. A,yenioe. which was always more or less
berbaric. a fine opulence Of flesh, luminous
md warm. wonderfully substantial and soft.
fun OF delicious comfortableness." carried
all before it-a beauty such as the paxans
have celebrated in their lyr1cs. and such as the
East adores. In France the national spirit,
always eclectic and vacillating. was neither
idealistic nor materialistio enough to take
any side In this dispute. As Ronsard put H.:
-Autant me PLAT Ia grassette. CONNIE me rlaist
la maIgrette.- At the same time. there Is no
doubt tina; the great soddcss-s who ruled and
dominated France in tho classical epoch. Nine.
de Chateaubriand, Nine. de Cannpes and Diana
Of Poitiers (all three. it will be remembered.
mistresses OF Francis ~ were representa-
tives OF vigorous stocks; An old. lusty blood
ooursed vIs.bly enough through their veins;
they mastered it.. however. as they mastered
everything, diluting It with an elemlnaoy
which had q charm Of its own.
The color Of the HAIR and eyebrows always
appeared q Characteristic factor In a woman's
outnt: It was long a postulate that with
out fair hair. there was no charm. Accord
ing TO q tw elfth century chronicler. the sweet
Saint Godeliva OF Bruges. was called a "horrid
crow" by her bag Of a stepmother on account
o, her dusky hair; 1t was To her hair. indeed,
that she owed the uibulatious that won for
her tho aurole Of sainthood. Our author
deems It probable that the Dukes Of Burgundy.
when they created the order Of the Golden
Fleece, vere thinking rather OF the lovely
all her own way. Yet, even In this matter.
the fastidious Florentincs old not commit