The St. Louis Republic., 1900-09-02

WRITTEN FOR THE SUNDAY REPUBLIC.
II has often been pronounced fortunate
that there was no recognized leader of
fashion in this country, as the individuali-
ety Of the average American in matters Of
dress would go far toward making all the
efforts of such person count for naught.
This Independence in matters Of dress
makes it difficult to predict TO a certainty
what special lines OF dress will be favorites
this winter, although the boundaries with
sn which dressers in good form must keep
can be laid down.
A resume of the entire situation in dress
may first be given, and the most noticeable
point Is the evidence Of return to less
color and TO more black and white in our
dress. The fancy fiannels. loud shirts and
brilliant neckwear have about killed vio-
lent colering and both in suitings and hab-
erdashery subdued tints will be the tend
ency. Two. or possibly three, exceptions
may be mentioned TO this rule, however.
The large cravats of this winter, which are
most likely to gain popularity. will most
likely be OF fairly brilliant tints; there will
be unlimited choice In coiored vests, with
4 tendency toward greenish shades. and in
half-hose certain fancy patterns will be the
favorites. Even in these exceptions, how
ever, the leaning toward conservatism in
both shades and patterns is pronounced.
Shirts.
To take up the haberdashery matter in
detail. let shirts be mentioned first. Condi-
fions N the shirt situation are free from
any revolutionary tendency. and there Is not
likely to be any very radical change except
- rYtiefar nat
terms. 1t Is not likely that any peculiar
color combinations will be sprung upon the
public, and the patterns in the stylish COL
ored shirts will be especially neat. The up
and down stripe will retain It's popularity
Throughout the season, although there are
some chances that the cross-bosom stripe
Swili appear late in the winter or early IN
skhe spring.
sswiil have the round point cuff attached.
sThe plain white linen shirt is the fashion
Sable thing and should open down the front.
There Is no fixed rule for the breadth Of
the bosom, except that it may be stated
that both width and depth Of bosom should
tbe as great as possible.
ICravats.
In cravats Of late there has been such a
slot of variety both In color and design that
.,sven the brilliant colors Of the season VIII
mot be remarkable. The tendency IL very
marked in certain sorte of ties toward the
aull or pastel colorings. Greens will be as
popular in ties as in suitings. the successes
Of the winter viii undoubtedly be Of one OF
The new shades of this color. The EXPO
sition." "UniverseIle" and ''Rostand" are the
three most distinctive shades. the first being
. light tone, the second a bright shade and
the last an emerald tint. In blue every
shade from light to blue-black Will appear,
while In the odd colors will appear tans.
Tobacco shades and deep browns. with khaki
and yellow a possibility. Red, scarlet, vie-
let, pearl gray and other striking coiors
will appear mostly as combinations on
BARKER background.
AS regards the type Of ties, the change
from negiige shirts and summer collars to
stiff shirts and winter collars Will bring
into favor the larger cravat forms, such as
the broad end Imperial. the Ascot and the
Culross The derby or four-in-hand, the
batswing and butterfly are essentially
fummer cravats. but there win undoubtedly
- . considerable sale Of them this winter,