The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1900-10-14
PlR|S FASHION LETTER
DESIGNED BY THE GREAT
M0DELER, ROBERT
"a CHAPTER ON MILLINERY
The Seasons Hats Scorn Exaggera-
tion, and Are Artistic IN Form
and Color COmbfnation-IIat
Models in Vogue.

Special Correspondence Of the Globe.
PARIS, Oct. /, 19oO.-Be it that the
dressnakers have exhausted Their inge-
nuity in devising new styles, or be it
that the styles and ideas of the former
seasons have so plea Sed the followers of
fashion that they are loath to give them
up, the fact remains that the indisposi-
ton to adopt new lines is apparent every
where Those who have looked forward
to a change when autumn came were dis
appointed agreeably disappointed in
many cases-for they found that spring
gowns could Well masquerade as new au-
tumn ones, and as the first forerunners
of heavy winter costumes are making
their appearance, we still see tight skirts,
soft blue fronts, zouave jackets and bell
sleeves.
All these characteristics apear on one
of Roberts latest models, designed for
winter wear, and attractive enough to
compensate the most fastidiOu5 for the
curious stability of ia shion. Velveteen
of soft dove gray shade is the material
employed to make the gown 1t has an
underskirt of tafreta of the same shade
and bordered with deep founce Of fine
ly pleated taffeta. There is a tunic Of
gray velveteen cut in the most approved
bell form and fitted to the figure by
means of darts The closing is at the
left side and is hidden by a narrow roll
Oh stone nl2EItH winch cAl6LGS -oIoilS INC
side and borders the scalloped hem from
under which the gray silk pleating shows
most effectively.
The bodice has tight foundation Of
gray taffeta over which Is draped finely
pleated liberty silk of the same shade
"A jabot ru1le of real lace covers the clos
ing in front and fastens at the high stock
collar yelled with gray liberty silk with
q rich pin composed of a huge amethyst
wreathed with diamonds. A pointed
girdle Of stitched gray taffeta encircles
the waist line. The dainty bolero of vel
Teteen is very short, and fits the figure
snugly. II shows the same scallop effect
and is edged with marten like the skirt
Two deep scallops form a breast
ed front and close with huge enameled
buttons set with amethysts and small
diamonds. The short, light sleeve is. also
slightly bell-shaped below the elbow and
Is finished with a roll of stone marten
which forms charming contrast to the
undersleeve of gray silk yelled with
pleated gray liberty silk. Dark gray
gloves and a dainty and novel picture
hat complete this toilette, which is par
ticularly suitable for a young lady. The
hat has the square crown and the upper
side of the brim covered with gray cloth,
and the brim is faced with tucked and
shirred gray liberty silk and filled out on
the turned-up side with a monture Of au-
tunn leaves. The top of the crown, as
well as the brim, is edged with stone
marten, and three gray plumes nod over
the left side, while clusters of autumn
leaves lend that touch of bright coloe
which makes "a harmonius ensemble.
Having arrived at the millinery field,
1t is most satisfactory to note that the
tendency to overload hats with trim
ming has disappeared. to judge from the
becoming and artistic models which are
everywhere in view. Flat effects con-
time, as is particularly evident in a
unique hat, the form OF which is made
of a flat oval fitted TO the head by means
of a bandeau. The fat is covered with
deep folds of gray panne velvet, and is
faced with tiny bias rolls of lighter gray
taffeta laid on in the manner of the
mousSeline de sole facings on some rich
hats of last summer. The bandeau is
likewise covered with taffeta rolls and a
rich bouquet of tea roses. with velvet
foliage, the shades of which blend artis-
tically with the tones of soft gray, Is
fastened under the left side, slightly tip
ing the hat The finish is effected by a
drapery of fine lace which is caught
around the eGge of the crown, after the
manner Of 2 veil, and is tied into short
loops at the back, where 1t is fastened
with a strass and silver buckle. This
form being novel, as well as attractive,
lids fair to be initiated in other color
combinations
Fur hats promise to be as much In
vogue as last year, and are sometimes
trimmed with rich velvet flowers, huge
In size and equally unnatural in shades
but chic cannot be denied them. Vel
Vet is always the material par excellence
I'm millinery, but 1t has this year found
q rival in cloth, for cloth hats are all
the rage. It covers the buckram hat
form smoothly, and combines we'll with
S1l manner of trimmings, y elvet and ful
being preferred.
Felix Fournery.