The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1900-08-19
PARIS FASHION LETTER
FELIX FOURNERY DESCRIBES A
YOUNG LADY'S FROCK DE-
SIGNED BY DOUCET
FAD OF ULTRA FAsHIONABLEs
1t Runs to Gold, Gallons, Braids
and Observation-Disclosures Models
for Members of the Dra-
matte World.

Special Correspondence st. Paul Globe.
PARIS, Aug. This is the season of
the year when the ultra-elegante3, not
content with the bounties which accepted
fashion has showered upon them, desire
new and special models little different
and in advance of the more well known
ones to be created for them. The dress
makers are not slow to respond to such
requirements, with the result that new
Ideas are constantly brought out, and
it is the feminine contingent of the dra-
matte world particularly who are the
first to profit by the latest devices of the
great couturiers. A beautiful gown is
Just completed by Doucet and will be
worn by q successful young actress who
viii play the "ingenua" role in one of
the coming new plays. The gown is de-
lightfulIy dainty and girlish i'll spite Of
the short train which makes it appro-
pirate for evening wear at Casino gath
erings or social evenings, as we'll as for
uses which will outlive the summer.
The skirt has a foundation of white
taffeta which is shaped close to the fig
IRE and flares gradually from the knees
downward and extends suddenly from
the hem. This flare is effected by the
deep ruffie of pleated white taffeta and
also by the two ruffies Of white Chan
ully tulle embroidered with silk polka
dots and closely pleated. The entire
foundation is covered with this tuile,
which is caught into narrow tucks
around the hips for the purpose Of close
adjustment below the waist line, and
yelling the silk in light folds which are
caught at the knees into four full puffs.
The skirt closes in the back and the
placquet is hidden under the train piece
of cream cClored taffeta artistically
painted with sprays of pink roses and
green foliage. The back forms a double
box pleat falling unconfined to the hem
of the skirt and is unlfned and finished
only with a deep hem at the sides and
below. The tight bodice o. white taft
feta IS covered with dotted Chantilly
tuIle fulled to effect a blouse and held
below the bust by a deep belt of rose
cClored faille yelled with rose-colOred
mOusseline de sole and closing in front
Hder a chou of the same mousseline.
The rose faille is shaped and boned
with the bodice and the drapery of
mOusseline de sole is caught with hid
den stitch now and then to simulate
lhe folded belt. This inevitable bolero
J; likewise seen in this creation 1t is
made of rose sprigged" taffeta like
that Of the train and is bordered with
LlouA4CG Ol me WlllS CldulllIy ldI6. n
rovel feature is the wide shoulder collar
Of taffeta, likewise edged with a
lace ruffie, as are also the short, tight
and unlined sleeves of taffeta, which
reach hardly to the elbows and are
finished with a tiny saucer cuff of tat
feta. There is high unlined stock of
folded rose-cOlored mousseline de sole
with a rosette and jabot Of the same
material in front.
Long white silk gloves are worn with
this toilette, and the hat that matches
It is white Neapolitian trimmed with
pink roses and foliage.
Gold galloons braid and embroidery
will play an important part in the dress
making and millinery field as long as
the fad for gliding" lasts. Doucet is
the author Of a model which brings this
new mode of decoration into play in
most effective, as Well as artistic man
ner. The gown is a demi- toilette of
practical value, as by the omission of
a guimpe and sleeves Of ochre guipure
it may be transformed into a conven-
tional hall gown. The skirt is of
Manufactured satin. cut circular and
lifting smoothly over the hips and back,
where the fullness is acquired by the
bias slant of the seam. The fare be
low is attained by a deep fcunce of
rich ochre guipure appliqued in ir-
regular fluctuations with fitted band
Of embroidery done with gold thread
and studded with simili turquoises and
diamonds. Additional fullness is given
by pleating of satin under the lace
and supporting it. The bodice has a
blouse Of ochre guipure over a founda-
ton of khaki satin and is deeply de-
collete and edged around with decoI-
letage with gold embroidery A corse-
let of gold cloth edged with gold en-
broidery confines the waist line, and
bands of the same embroidery form
the shoulderstraps. For less dressy
wear yoke and tight sleeves of I'M
lined ochre guipure are WORN and the
design Of the lace is outlined with gold
thread. Felix Fonrnerv