Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1900-11-22
The WELL-DRESSED NAN.


There seemed at one time posi-
bility of change In the cut of sack
Jacket, but as yet no indication of a
reversion TO a former style or of a
fashion distinctly new has made itself
manifest. 1t may be thought that there
Is nothing in the cut Of one sack coat
to distinguish it from another or that
ell sack Jackets must be much alike.
|. As matter of fact there are certain
characteristics given the sack by the
greater or less degree, in sack jackets
made by the ordinary cheap tailor and
in those to be bought ready made at the
clothing establishments.
It is difficult to describe the exact
appearance Of the fashionably made
sack suit. The main features are the
shortness and spring seams of the
Jacket and the fulness of the trousers
over the hips and thighs. The shoulders
should be made to look as broad as
possible, the sleeves being put on 50
as to give a rounded rather than a
square TURF from the shoulders prouer
down over the upper arms. The
shoulders should not be made to look
slanting or rounded in the way that a
rag ian coat makes them appear, for,
on the contrary, they should be square;
there should not be an angle made at
the seam where the sleeve is put on.
In front the coat hangs straight, but
at the sides in lesser degree at the
back it is cut in from the shoulders,
the seams having noticeable spring,
30 that there is some suggestion of
waist without, however, marked waist
line. From this cut at the waist the
jacket curves out again, giving it at
the bottom somewhat OF "a belled ap-
peaIance. The trousers, as | have
said, are full oyer the hips and thighs,
but this fulness must be given without
causing wrinkles and folds Of material
which are unsightly, and which, owing
to the shortness of the coat, can be
easily seen. At the knees the trousers
are narrower, of course, than above,
and at the ankles still narrower, but
the lines are perfectly straight without
spring to the seams or attempt to fol-
low the form OF the leg. This cut OF
trousers is commonly called peg top,
and it is rather difficult 10 make cor
reotly.
The cut is not new, for it is that
used for sack suit during the past sum-
mer, the shortness OF the Jacket es.
pecially having come into fashion as
long ago as last autumn. Intrinsically
the newer may not be as good looking
as that of the old style, which had 4
longer and straighter hanging jacket
but there is no question of its smart
ness. particularly for younger men who
can afford to be more or less extreme
Older men, especially il they are in
cliaed to stoutness, had better sacrifice
fashion to looks to the extent of having
little more length and little les
spring to their sack coats.
Double breasted waistcoats are still
worn with buttons coverging TOWARD
the bottom, but the single breasted Gu
is somewhat the better for sack suits
1t is largely question of persona
preference, as is also the matter o
having the waistcoats with or withou
lapel. However made, it should b.
rather high at the neck and fairl.
short.
Fancy colored extra waistcoats ar
seldom worn by the best-dressed mel
with sack suits, and it is even doubtful
il with the frock or morning coat the
will be as much in vogue this year a
they were last They will, Of course
not go entirely out of fashion, an,
with frock coat well-made wais
coat which hts properly and is not to
striking is often smart looking. Niue
depends upon the cut, the material am
the individual style OF the wearer. 1her
ere me articles Of apparel which ma
be bought almost as good looking al tn
less expensive furnishing shops and haE
srdashers a5 at the fashionable an
high priced places, but waistcosts can
not be included in the list
To return to the subject of sack suits
questions frequently asked are Wher
IAN get a correctly cut suit read
made?' and, FLOW much should
cCst?" Opinions differ, but as thes
points are OF interest to large class T
men who canuot afford to nave the
business and lounge suits made by .,
pensive tailors, yet who are gentleme
in every sense of the word, and VII
wished to appear as well dressed {
possible, | snail be very glad to sc
down few suggestions, hoping tn;
they may be of service. So much depend
upon the material Of which a suit
made. upon the workmanship and upo
the standing and reputation OF the she
that it il imrssible to particularize.
used to be thought next to imp0ssib
to buy really well-cut and smart lool
ing suit Of any description ready mac
out OF stock, but times have chang et
great improvements in the art of mai
ing clothes have taken place, materia
are cheaper and today there is not IL
stigma that there used to be attacht
to wearing clothes that have not bet
made to order. OF course it is poss b
to buy sack suits ready made at8pric
hal. n IL
is, for SID, Sl2 or $40, but they a
rarely, L may say never, correct IN C
and the materials and workmansb
necessarily cannot be very good. L,
not advise buying suit sold for lie
than S15, even If one intends it only I
business use, but il man wishes
limit his purchase to so low figure
strongly advise selecting plain hla
or dark blue material. Cheap mix,
materials, although they may look fair
we'll at first, seldom wear we'll. III
ARE composed chiefly of cotton, a ia
that soon becomes apparent
Some men find lie difficult to b
Ieady-made clothes which fit the
properly and in which they look we
but, again, there are many, and espec
ally young men, who have the kind
figure that can be fitted perfectly wi
the sizes in which ready made suits !
made, and for such it is almost alws
better to buy them at good shop q
OF stock than to have them made
some poor tailor.
The double breasted sack Jacket +
lows the single in cut as regards
length and the spring given to
seams, but in both these respects it
generally not SO extreme. | say gen
ally advisedly, because [ have motto
on smartly dressed men coats of III