Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-06-16
NEW IDEAS IN MEMS DRESS
PARIS EXPERIENCING A RENAIS-
sANCE OF THE "INCRoYABLE.-
We Are Not Looking for Sartoris,
Hints From the Outside-New
NegliEe style.


From the Habcrt,ashcr.
You have no doubt, observed in ali things
| pertaining to design and ornamental ton. a
more or less siavsh tendency to follow the
| lines. motives and suggestions drawn from
| the post-revo.utionary period. That
| the time when our greatgrandfathers were
bucks when the pot hat just COM
| ing into favor. and the high pointed collars
and large twice-around cravats were con-
sfdered proper accomplishments to waist
| coats proud in the glory Of color and fam
boyancy of ensemble. Contemporaneous
with this colonial renaissance We are con-
fronted with like reaction in favor of old
| things in furnishings architecture and to a
| limited degree In apparel. One finds colo
nial'' this and colonial that on every
hand. A spinning wheel must needs adorn
copper bed warmer bedecked with blue rib
| bcns must dangle from the walls of the
| steam heated fiat. Since the environments
| of the home are post-revolutionary in char
acter, It Is but ma tural to look for the i'm
| press of the same influence upon our wear
| ing apparel
The Parisans. oddly enough. the first
/ to take up what to us is colonial and to
| them moderate renaissance Of the in
| croyable." In Paris today men are ex-
| plotting the high collars and the twice
around cravats and old-style pins. antique
| watch fobs and ornaments and fancy waist
| coats and pleated shirts. OF course. we
hard-headed and practical Americans have
| not INDUCED in this new school. nor do /
think that we will The extent of our coun-
try and the opportunities II affords for all
| kinds o. outdoor sports prevents our fol-
lowing anything in the nature of fashions
| that appeal exclusively to the city bred and
| city born. Nothing Of the effeminate ap-
| pedls to the American in matters of apparel
or OF pastimes. He wants big shoes, COM
| Portable Clothes: rugged stuff that will wear
| we'll and fit we'll With our serges and fan
nels and Knockers, our sombreros. belts and
SOFT shirts. We are satisfied and contented.
| We are not likely to exchange that sense OF
| comfort and quality Of fitness for high
| heeled boots. chokers and sweetly effemi-
| nate waistcoatings l do not fear the po-
| tency of the renaissance of the mixed-u
| colonial. incroyable or any other combina-
| ton of periods that threatens our bodily
Well-being and ease. We like color. are
| fond of liberty, we respect art We do not
| care rap for the standards OF the boule-
| vardiers. or the habitues of St. James
| street. or the lounger the Riviera. We
take our own IDEAS. and the IDEAS of others.
II they suit our purpose and We cut them.
| twist them, modify them or exaggerate
| them, and when We have modelled them to
our satisfaction we incorporate them into
| one great school which is the typical Ameri-
can dress.
| never had much respect for the men
who prated Prince of Wales and London.
We are, to a certain extent, followers of
the English in matters of dress and Gus
| toms, but we only are followers only to
limited limited , extent Nothing that is British.
|
| qualified favor in the popular dress Of
| Americans. The customs and the dress of
| the English must always differ from ours.
| Difference of climate demands this. Amer
| leans will not wear high hats and frock
| coats throughout the year. nor can they,
| with any degree of comfort, wear heavy
Scotch golf stockings and thick tweed suits
| during the tropical heat of our American
summer. Midsummer. with its torrid heat.
| calls for flannels, ducks and soft light
stuffs. He that would ape the English may
| hi
jtggered for all l care.
If we should take a hint from the dress
| or any foreigners let us adapt to needs
the summer standards of our newly ac-
CURED anomalies. subjects, wards citizens
| or Whatever they may be. They can give
\ US points in summer dress well worth heed
| ing.
You can see, no doubt, the folly of trying
| to push articles not actually suitable TO
! this country. We cannot take up the heavy
| rugs. cloaks, great coats and fabrics that
| are necessary the bleak coast of Eng
| land and of Scotland. The lighter fabrics
we use and use literally and the standards
| we certainly follow. But in our collars.
shirts, cravats and hats. well as in our
| clothing. we cut to suit ourselves There
| is a truly distinct American tone and it is
| a good tone.
l have observed little in our dress for tho
coming season that might be termed rad
| tcal In shirts pleated negliges are very
popular. Now. l do not mean the peculiar
! things with great bar gridiron fronts,
| but the neat pa tterns in pleats of moderate
width. These shirts should close with pearl
buttons and not with studs. They are worn
with fold collar, and with small ogee
| or batwing tie. Speaking of the ogee l no.
uce that 1t Is being given great prominence
| IN some of the best shops. These new ogees
| have pointed ends and are made of solid
toned baratheas or rumchundas. These and
| the narrow derbes. and the pointed end
batwi!lS ties will be the fav6rites this sum-
mer. Some new collars shown by one of
New YorkS best providers of haberdashery
have extension bands. with the outer folds
almost meeting and the points rounded of
The stitching is in two rows, one about one
sixteenth of an inch from the edge and the
other about one-Quarter of an inch from
the first.
In ncslige dress flannel trousers turned up
at the bottom. ana the low cut shoes will
necessltate frequent changes in hosiery.
Fancy half hose will be one of the most
important items in the dress of the sum-
mer man. There must be shades and colors
to go with every suit Bold contrasts Will
not be in good form Do not recommend
peculiar combinations for wear with black
| or blue suits. The half hose should not be
too prominent; that is it should not be the
one spot IN a mans attire so conspicuous
as to attract attention.
one must be easy and comfortable above
all things. Do not let the stiff or the I'M
calmly lines preiominate. There is nothing
more truly artistic than the soft suits and
shirungs of the period. l think we are
closer to the best sartorial ideal than We
have ever been. l am not who views
the past a school of training for the
never be anything else.
Stuffed Loin of Lamb.