The Portland daily press., 1900-02-16
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CALVES HEADS.

BY Louis Role.
In the following article / shall attempt
to point the way to cooking several in
expensive but highly regarded dishes.
Strangely enough have found that the
cheapness Of these dishes has detraoted
from rather than enhanced the desir-
ableness of them In the eyes of the
American. while abroad II makes them
douhly sought. We viii, however, throw
away our Srejudices for the present and
try to cook calves heads as our English
cousins do. and 1 hope eat this most
palatable food with as great a relish.
While the English housewife or cook
procures the head and bones II we may
be spared that. as our butcher Will do
the trick much more easily and neatly
than we as amateurs could hope to do.
Select a small head and having II boned
when it reaches your home place II in
large pan Of water SO 1t may be thor
oughly cleansed, after which put in
stewpan over the fire, with cold water
always. and when II comes to boil skim
1t WELL allowing 1t to boil for five or six
minutes; then take up and put II In cold
water TO cool. Next drain the meat on
napkin and II the butcher did not cut II
up divide It into pieces convenient for
serving and rub each piece thoroughly
with lemon juice; then place It back In
the stewpan with one carrot, one onion.
few sprigs of celery. some parsley,
three or four cloves. salt and pepper and
two or three cupfuls OF good stock or
broth and simmer slowly for about two
hours. When the pieces of meat appear
dnna lrafn n n nanEin mr. with
a parsley and butter sauce. or. IL you
prefer. make a brain sauce. II the lat
ter is desired cook the brains by boiling
In vinegar and water and a little stock,
and when done add them to an ordinary
cream sauce. In all cases pour the sauce
over the meat when serving. Another
nice way of serving calf's head is with
piquante sauce. Prepare the head as
before by soaking in cold water and par
boiling and Swimming. put into stew
pan about one pound of chopped beef
suet, one carrot, one onion, some celery,
three cloves and blade of mace; stir
until the suet Is melted, using a wooden
spoon, add the pulp of two lemons and
n small handful OF -four. season with
salt and pepper. add enough water or
stock to moisten well. put in the meat
and boil gently for about two hours.
When done drain and serve with piq-
uante sauce.
This sauce may be made in the follow
ing way while the calfs head is cooking:
Melt in a saucepan one tablespoonful OF
butter, add one small onion and one
small carrot chopped fine and cook for
five minutes; sprinkle over one table
\ 4
small cupful of vinegar. the same
amount OF good rich stock, salt and pep
per, a bit of thyme and simmer slowly
for half an hour: strain through a coarse
sieve and add six small sharp pickles
chopped fine
If the calfs brains are not used In
making q sauce they may be served as
a separate dish. and by many are con-
sidered a delicacy. Try them in this
way: Clean and boil gently in vinegar
and water as directed above and when
drained cut into oval scollops and steep
them in a basin with little oil, vinegar,
pepper and salt; then fry in batter as
you would oysters and serve with plq-
uante or provencale sauce. The calfs
ears may also serve as desirable dish
II treated as follows: After they have
been boiled trim the ears, scrape off the
soft skin from the upper part and cut
each ear into four pieces lengthwise. put
them to steep in basin or stewpan with
two tablespoonfuls of olive oil. one OF
vinegar. two very small onions, a bay
leaf and sprlgs of parsley. with salt and
pepper 10 season. Just before dinner
time dip them in light batter and fry in
deep fat TO rich brown. Serve with
tomato sauce.