Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-08-25
Around and About the Interesting
New Hampshire City.
QUAINT WEArHER-BEArEu HOUSES
Trolley Lines Bring Ancient Land
marks Close Together.
FURN1SHIN e S

PORTSMOUTH, N H., August 20, 1900.
One breathing the cool. delicious air Of
this interesting old city can only think with
pity of the thousands Of feilow-citizens
sweltering under the humid heat Of Wash
ingten Already are its miseries partially
forgotten by US, and would be wholly SO,
only compassion for those left behind re-
calls what we ourselves endured until re-
Gently. This radical change Is good for
soul and body. and this old ''Rivermouth."
as Thomas Bailey Aldrich has named it in
his romance, is a central point in which one
Is well located for seeing many things, and
easily reaching other points Of interest.
This summer electric roads have been
opened for the first time by which one can
travel miles in various directions and con-
meet with other lines which cover a large
part Of the country about, even taking one
as far as Boston. two hours distant by
steam cars. A prettier ride than that to
York Beach. in Maine, Ia difficult to find
anywhere, or more diversified one. The
beginning Is by boat. little tug going
across the river to Kittery, where the cleo
trio road begins, which runs sixteen miles by
ocean and pine forest, alternately, until one
is quite undecided as to which has the
greater charm. kittery itself Is as quaint
as any old town In New England, and the
houses one passes are a continual source of
interest. Close to the car track at one
place Is the weather-beaten house of Sir
William Pepperel. with its doorway sur
mounted by an eagle, once gilded as be-
came his state. This is not open to WIS.,
itors. SO one must be contented with the
outside architecture exclusively. Not far
away. browning a hilltop, is the statelier
mansion vrich Sir William built for his
daughter wen she became Mistress Spar
hawk. This Is beautifully situated. with
a view over the lower ground between
it and the ocean, and surrounded by the
England. As we fly along in the car we
pass the navy yard, go so close to some of
the old houses that we can almost look in
the front windows, whfrl into the woods.
out again to the ocean, and so come to the
fashionable resort Of York Harbor.
Among the Cottages.
Here the cottages are mostly new. Of the
modern STYLE all more or less luxurious,
for modern summer life, as it attracts
many people. Mr.. Thomas Nelson Page
has hts summer home here, and there are
others sufficient to make quite a settlement.
For a stretch after leaving York Harbor
comes Long Beach. lined on one side by
cottages, with the open sea on the other
and a fine surf rolling in for bathing. York
Beach lies for the most part on a cliff, and
few little shops give it something Of a
business air, near the car line, which runs
ON for a mile further and ends abruptly at
the entrance Of a park. where picnics go
ride first a canoe regatta was on at York
Harbor, and on the return trip the cars
Were crowded with wel-dressed people, to
whose sunburned or Drowned faces all
finery was equally unbecoming. while the
canoes. with the incident decorations, made
a pretty picture on the river as we rode by
on the high ground overlooking them.
Changes in the Years.
When we were here a good many years
ago old Fort Constitution was a mere play
ground. all innocent OF its former impor-
lance Of technical nature. but the Spanish
American war changed all that. and the
old fort was reused to perform its duty to
it's country, with two disappearing guns. Il
garrison and such warlike outfit. And now,
while open to visitors for inspection, there
is no more lunching or !ounging within It's
ramparts. To all visitors the prison house
of the Spanish officers Is pointed out IN
passing down the harbor. and near the
marine hospital in the navy yard the two
small hospital buildings, put up for the sick
among the Spanish soldiers.
The Portsmouth navy yard Is across the
river at Kittery, Me-, and when festivities
60 on there part of the pleasure In going Is
the ride across in the gig or yacht sent
to convey the guests across from here.
The New and the Old.
Newcastle, two and a half miles from
here. is a hamlet. partly old and partly of
lanes, with narrow paths at one side for
foot passengers. One-half OF the place Is
on the Piscataqua river. the other on the
ocean, and Fort Constitution on the point
where ocean and river meet. The large no.
tel OF the place, the Wentworth. Is set on
high ground some distance from the cot
tage settlement. The old Wentworth house,
home Of the governor Of New Hampshire
in early days, is near by, still occupied by
descendants, and not open to strangers.
One get plenty OF the early history OF
our country in this nefghborhOod This old
city Is full of houses whose architecture Is
delight to lovers Of the old, and much OF
1T might serve as models to the builders OF
today Articles appear from time to time
in our magazines on the old-time interests,
and recently some of the old doorways
were illustrated in magazine on house
hold art. 1t is a constant delight to walk
lingeringly through these cool. shaded
streets and gaze ones fill at these old
houses, some of them jealousy guarded by
high board fences, a small space in front
only open so that no prying eye may see
the beauties of flower and lawn which lie
behind. No fence, though, can shut in the
towering elms, which SO dominate the
houses that sometimes they rise to almost
the height Of them again above them.
Book Lovers Retreat.
The Athenaeum an institution of long
standing here has quaint building on
the parade, the open space in the heart Of
the city, on which the principal buildings
face. The facade is interesting. narrow
for it's height, with unique windows. the
leading painted white. while those OF the
door are black. showing we'll against the
old red brick Of the front. One enters the
lower reading room directly from the
street. The high mantel is Of white wood,
the place Of honor on its shelf being given
to a large figure of Buddha, which some
daring sailor of the long ago stole at the
risk OF his life from an Indian temple and
brought to this country. whence 1t found
its way here. On either side hang framed
papers, grants of land, one from George
Ill and one from George III, too long and
illegibly written for present reading, but
hanging from each is the great seal Of
England. one in perfect condition. the
other somewhat broken.
A large painting OF Sir William
Pepperel and paintings Of other early
governors hang on the walls. and on q
table, under glass, is a beautiful model Of
frigate Of past date. made by French