New-York tribune., 1900-04-29

crepe, crepe de chine chiffon, muslin and ustre
less. thin silks. These materials too used as
trimmings plain stuffs. Still. the majority Of
these latest models in mourning gowns have some
trimming of crepe.
STREET MOURNING GOWNS.
For useful summer gown that may be worn in
the street there is a costume of a thin silk. with
deep points of crepe into the skirt. On the
bodice is an undervest of crepe laid in small hori-
zontal folds. and over this a short silk bolero
This is perforated over crepe, silk cord finishing
the perforations.
For house dress a good example is in NOUS
seline de sole in dull black, trimmed with crepe
There is a double skirt of the pieated stuff, each
is simple With the execution of he sleeve f6e
stuff is pleated and the trimming is only V-ltke
Even prettler for the house is skirt and short
of r 6oss Who d Tf he da9 seck of
these sufs & too trying there is fine black net
mourning, wholly correct. A mourning silk with a
trimming of net arranged in tiny ruchings for the
The ordinary EdGn street ss is much what has
bands Of crepe The skirt end acaq mG6 dS Ta n
often The is somsmes r empdYed edsi bat it
% Jacket or a basque. Either may be over
h which is somewhat different from the Marie Stuart
y is OF rm6 GaP t6a @ has 6eeh SO d long in The
ranged to take away from the too fiat appearance
Of nuns Yelling or French chon Witb bsnds are 6f
crepe. and fall eight inches below the waist.
WHAT OF THE "TAILOR-MADE?"
Is 1t possible that the 'talor-made' is losing its
popularity among French women? This is ques-
ton that many have been asking since the Horse
Show. For the last few years the fashionable cos
tune at the Concours Hppiques has been some
severe version of the "taior-made" but this year
marked change in this respect conspicuous
The best dressed the smart afternoons
wore dressmakers' gowns, not taiors' gowns, and
on the whole. dressed they did some years ago
before the severe cloth costume became so popular
This made it interesting function for IL Wa
models, so TO speak. had chance appear and
one can really never judge of the effectiveness Of
new styles while they only displayed i'm the
Already the thin materials seem to be wonderfully
P@opulaf; @ ana Tor one cloth dress appeared two of
for this occasion were rather quiet perhaps srav
old rose or the fashonabe medium blues being the
most conspicuous. The skirts, compared to those
wore just a year ago, seemed decidedly full, for
duction of the close habit skirt Besides the usual
form OF plain skirt which has been fully described
and triple skirts and some few TUNES. conspicu-
Gus feature Of the new costumes is the amount of
-, Among the many charming gowns that made
meteore crepe the skirt finely pleated and arr
ranged as skirt, and underskrt. over the bodice
was worn a Jacket, narrow the sides but with
sd p0nnded ed fairly M hiIonE Goa cNatas This Jacket
embroidered in leaf pattern done in fne iets e,i
This garment % was held over the chest in odd
Oh the IeIt from the highest rOSette started
satin ribbon, crossing to the first rosette on the
ieft 81 side then & to the ower on the right and end
could be used to freshen up any bolero made with
out reveres.
A gown that attracted deal OF attention was
of Admiral blue bunting quietly trimmed with a
heavy black lace. The blue stuff had running
through It fine silk lines of green so faint that
they would hardly have been noticed If the color
had not been emphasized by trimming. On the
skirt this took the form of narrow panel of
soft green silk finely peated. The panel only ran
as high the knee, and framed with in
crustations of lace like those all about bottom
or the skirt. The jacket covered the chest con-
cealing all of the underbiouse except a vest that
was OF green silk veiled with openwork OF white
lace; On the jacket appeared a lavish use
of the black lace; II covered the whole front of the
Jacket the sides and the tops of the sleeves. The
hat worn with this of green straw plated
with blue velvet ribbon, and trimmed with a bunch
of large
Extremely springke appeared combination of
gray yelling, white satin and gray panne the latter
used as material for embroidery. The skirt was
laid in the back and about the hips in fine pleats
which disappeared after few inches and al
lowed the stuff to fall in soft, irregular folds In
front was panel of white satin covered with
figures cut out OF gray panne and applIqued with
small crystal beads. On the bodice was a vest of
the same material, framed by the sides OF little
capuchin OF white lace lined with pink. The hat
was turban OF white lace, we'll over the