The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1900-03-15
SIGHT SEEING IN SEVILLE.
THE "HOUSE or KINGS" IND THE
GOLDEN TOWER.
On the Fashionable Promenade with
the Creme De La Creme of Andalusin-
Some Priceless Manuscript.
Especial Correspondence of the Journal
and Courier.)

| SOWt N-EiCtbFsS
Especial Correspondence of the Journa
and Courier,)
/ Seville, Spain, Jan. 31-This sunniesi
, capital of Andalusia prdes Itself
, nightly on many things, and on moth
, ing more than being 1.-The most Spanish
city in Spain that is, least changed by
modern progress. In place where
Father Time seems to have been stand
ing absolutely still since the days of the
Caliphs, where everybody lives ana
moves according to his own sweet VIII
and nobody pays the slightest heed TO
his neighbours affairs, any pleasant
happening grows easily into a habit,
Thus we find ourselves arising before
the lark and mounting the Giralda tow
er-day after day, as regularly as the
mueddin of old-merely to see the sun
spring out of bed behind the dark Mo-
rena range and come smiling over the
valley of the Guadalquivir
You need not climb the whole three
hundred and fifty feet of the minaret,
nor even go half way up to enjoy a glo-
rious prospect. AT your feet lies the
flat-roofed, white-walled city; the vast
cathedral the domes of hundred
churches, all covered with red and green
tiles; the splendid towers of the Alcazar
and a score of Moorish mosques and
minarets; suburban villas amid masses
of verdure; the historic river, sweeping
around the outskirts and away to the
sea, bearing the varied craft of COM
merce; the beautiful valley of the Quad
alquivir, here green and gold with Or
| ~; a,it,, eyI,oy ~
with the foliage of olive groves; green
valleys and little villages nesting in
the foot hills; big trees and palm trees;
! hedges of aloes and rose-vines wreath
| ing garden walls; the deep blue of the
sky, the quaint costumes of the people
astir in the fields and the streets, the
chihing of bells the camor of hawks
and pigeons in the belfry overhead-all
combine to delight the senses and fill
the memory with fadeless visions of
| beauty. The old Mostem minaret looks
down sullenly upon this intidel splen-
dor, and from the balcony under the
bells you seem to hear the wrath Of the
muezzin still calling to the faithful:,
There is no God but Allah and Mo-
manned IS His prophet! Prayer is bet
ter than sleep. Come to prayer!'
Descending to earth again from Abu-
Yusuf Yakub's tower, we emerge into
the Court of Orange Trees and stand
for moment beside the battered mar
Bile fountain, where for three hundred
years the clearly Moors performed
their morning additions. Children play
all day under the cool arcades, stray
goats and donkeys browse in the grove
and water-carriers fill their kegs at the
once-sacred fountain, then trudge away
with cheerful cries "A'ua! A'ual
Quen, quiere aua? Tempra muy
'uena!" water! Water! who wants
water? Tepid and good! Water |
selling Is a profitable business in Sc
Vile; and besides their kegs and po-
rous jugs, many of the aguadores car
ry kettles of boiling water, for the !
Spaniards have new-fangled notion |
that warm water is more healthful than
cold on a summers day. Only two |
sides of the original Court of Orange |
Trees remain, the quaint Moorish arch |
and bronze doors which led to the I
twelfth century mosque of Jacub-Al- |
Mansur since displaced by the Romish |
cathedral, disfgured by some terra
Gotta statues, made as late as 1919. The
old gateway leading from the street
into the court has been partially rebuilt
and in the recess where the kadi used |
to dispense justice, two images are en-
of the Savior in His ago
ny, with bloody face and rolling eyes,
the other His Virgin Mother The sane
tity of these images is attested by nu-
merous proofs of miraculous cures
by interposition of the saints
In answer to prayer-discarded crutches,
pictures and wax representations of
sons, deformities and other human ills
exhibited on shelves. The little altar
in front is always surrounded by kneel-
ing devotees and its broad copper tray
Is well-covered with coin.
Climb worn stone staircase to a
suite of rooms in the upper story of the
Did mosque, and you Will find the most
if not the most valuable,
collection of books and manuscripts in
The world-twenty thousand musty vol
lmes bound in vellum, hequeathed to
he canons and book-worms Of the ca
hedral by Columbus son, Fernando
The great navigator's original manu-
scripts are preserved in a glass case.
Some of them were written in the dun
yeons of the 1nquisition; and maps and
'harts with marginal notes on them are
iiscolored with the salt spray of the
western ocean. There Is also that queer
I'D book of nonsense, THE Travels of {
Marco Polo" which probably suggested
o Columbus the existence of another
hemisphere. Al any rate, he set great |
tore by the book and took it on all his {
'oyages 1t bears evidence of much 1
tudy and usage, nearly every page be-
ng enriched with notes in Columbus {
wn hand. The writing, though of the 9
ntique style called Grabbed" is legi- q
lie as copper-plate, and after four hun [
red years the ink is hardly faded. C
In the LOnja, or Exchange literally, c
Long Room)," which contains the roy :
archives of the Indies, is a mass of b
Material pertaining to SPANS conquests v
1 the western world They are stored t
handsome mahogany cases, behind t
1cked glass doors-great bundles Of +
atters and documents, many of price t
'ss value, which have never yet been il
ally investigated Most of the letters 8
re from the great Conquistadores re- p
bunting their exploits to the reigning g
,vereign. One of the oldest is from II
lagellanes, dated October "a, 1913.
mother of about the same period, was CT
ritten by Diego Velasuuez from La IL