davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-04-28
Little Change in Shirt Waists or
Sailor Hats,
BUT new ONES HAVE THEIR MARK
EpauIets in Favor Both for Gowns
and Short Coats.
CORAL WITHWHITECOsTUME


Special Correspondence Of The Evening Star.
PARIS, April IA, 1900
Lovely spring is the season when the
thoughts of those of us who belong not to
the aristocracy of wealth begin to study
the cut and composition of the summer
shirt waist. This ever-useful garment
could, with little convenience. be dis
pensed with as the tailor-made gown of
which it is the accompaniment. The
changes in pattern of the shirt waist have
been so decided from season to season that
there is no longer the possibility of wear
ing a last season shirt waist without be-
ing readily detected as the wearer of ar
chaic garments. Often a last seasons
waist may be altered that it harmonizes
with the newer styles, but most frequently
there is no salvation at all save In the Sc
curing of new waists
The materials for the new waists are not
very different from those used in past sea-
sons. Khaki wash fabrics are among the
new ones of the season, and the khaki shirt
waist is to be commended on account of
its simplicity and adaptability to rough
usage, such as it must receive at seashore
ana mountain resorts at the hands of the
young woman who likes roughing it. The
Khaki waist is made without tllcks or cord
ing, is slightly bloused in the 'front.' down
which runs a heavy khaki band bordered
with double rows of stitching. At each side
are small stitched pockets. Epaulets adorn
the shoulders and stitched cuffs and belt
give other finishing touches to the blouse.
A scarlet tie about the high straight col
lar gives brilliancy to the otherwise rather
Somber garment.
White Tucked Vests.
The insertion of a white vest in waist
of spotted cambria is novelty which lends
freshness in appearance and thus COM
mends itself to the lovers of dainty blouses.
The white cambria is tucked and set in the
front very much like a shirt front The
sleeves have short cuffs, and the back of
the garment is cut with a small, rourI
yoke The high. straight collar is finished
with a sailor knot tie in silk.
Sateen is used good deal for shirt
waists; there is a quality that looks very
much like satin. High collars seem to
be the rule with the waists, and the sailor
knot tie is more often used than any other.
A great many tucked waists are to be
seen, some tucks being applied vertically
and some horizontally in groups, others in
diagonal lines. Spotted and striped fab
RIGS are very popular. while a combination
of stripes and spots is considered the very
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-04-28
Woman's Hair Has Ever Been Sub
jeot of Great Interest.
STYLES USED TO RUN TO EXTREMES
Extravagant Customs in Vogue in
the Eighteenth Century,
WHEN WIGS WERE PROPER
Written for The Evening Star.

Written for The Evening Star.
The tendency of hair and hats. like the
times. is toward expansion. The pompadour
of today would make that of its fair orig
inator look like 80 cents. Madame POmpa-
Gour was a beautiful woman. of exquisite
taste. which never ran wild. Her low.
broad forehead was most attractive with
TIE hair turned back from it in soft waves
but YOU can find no rats or mice to
pad 1t out 1t seems n pity that so pretty q
style should be so caricatured. In the shops
one finds masses of something thick as
ones arm. which is to extend around the
head to be covered over with hair and the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-04-28

height of chic. As one might suppose, for
the more expensive waists a good deal
of insertion, both Of lace and embroidery,
is made use of, the insertion being put on
in fanciful designs that give great posi-
bility of varying the pattern and preparing
something that shall be at once both ele-
giant and novel In design
For serviceable Wear.
Embroidery and tucks are combined with
very good effect. For the waists intended
to see severe service the percale. madras,
bingham, chambrays pique, khaki cloths
and mercerized madras are the most de-
sirable fabrics.
For misses the simpler tucked waists are
preferred, the collar most frequently made
of the same material as the waist and
contrasted with narrow tie finished with
a little bow.
1t IS almost impossible to find a new
gown without epaulets. There is a gen.
eral idea that the epauets, by broaden
ing the line at the shoulders, give a more
graceful outline to the form. In most
cases this is nonsense, for the skillful dress
maker depends on padding to give to a
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-04-28

Embroidery In chiffon and other thin ma
terials is great feature of the new trim
.mings. Open embroidery. lace beads. gold
and silver thread and silk are all employed
and variously combined in these pretty
novelties. Something decidedly unique Is
a combination of lace and linen spangles
overlapping one another in varying sizes
and forming different designs.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-04-28
An Expensive Vagary.

why, who half killed you, old man?''
'Oh, it's just some more of my luck.
My mobe got away from me and took me
through a plate-glass window yesterday"
That is hard luck. sure
"Oh, I'm not kicking about that particu-
larry. But 1t was a milliners window full
of spring bonnets. Now, why couldn't 1t
have picked out a jewelers., or goldsmith's.
or some cheap window like that to destroy
things?'
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-04-28
EpauIets on Coats.

Even on coats the epaulet effect is striven
fer. On one of the steamer coats the cloth
was allowed to fall back over the sleeves
in such a way as to form a slight fold and
in appearance suggest that 1t was perilouslv
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-04-28
The 1900 Sailor Hat.
Cleaning Carpets.

To clean carpets take a gill of OK gall
and stir it into half a pailful of cold rain
water Dip a soft brush into the mixture
and with it well scrub the carpet. Remove
the lather with clear rain water and then
rub dry with plenty of clean cloths.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-04-28

black cloth. embroidered in chenille. beads
and silk. The skirt was cut with single
deep box plat in the back that fiared TO
form very decided train. The short bo-
lero was heavily embroidered and so was
the upper half of the sleeves at the wrist
of which fell deep lace frills With this
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-04-28

:, To prevent the fringe of towels and doy-
tb es o lrSm breaking and wearing on snap
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-04-28

gown was worn a lace mantle reaching
about to the shoulders and trimmed with
deep fiounce of lace and with a high COL
lar of ruchng flaring away from the
throat. Long scarfs of lace fell from the
front of the mantle, these giving that eff
feet of length to the figure which the
short mantle is inclined to counterfeit.
Coral Popular Again.
Coral is distinctly fashionable; necklaces
and brooches and bracelets of the stuff are
growing in popularity. Worn with white
costumes, coral is very effective. especially
for those who affect the ingenue style. The
pinkish coral is the color most often seen,
white coral having little value mounted as
jewelry.
Summer brings the usual new designs in
scarf pins. These little trinkets are almost
indispensable to those who have ribbons
and scarfs to keep in place. For those who
are fond of outdoor sports there are the
usual tennis, golf. military and navy pins
Flowers, insects, birds and animals are to
be had in plain gold or mounted in jewels
or enamel. Flower pins are the daintiest
and prettiest and are made in many odd
and handsome patterns for 1t is expected
that they will be more popular this season
than any of the other Sorts
The 1900 Sailor Hat
Each season brings with it a. new pat
tern of sailor hat, style SO distinct from
that of the season previous that women
who aim to be at all up to date find it i'm
possible to renew their allegiance to the
sailor hat of the past season without the
word being well aware of the fact. Sailor
hats for 1900 have rather broad crowns Of
moderate height, with brirns neither par
ticularly broad nor narrow. They are
trimmed with bands laid in folds more often
than with the fiat ribbons and are con-
structed of plain straw, with white the
most desirable color. -
CATHERINE TALBOT.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-04-28

Eating freely Of watercress for several
consecutive days will remove tartar of long
standing from the teeth.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-04-28

cup of milk added, to the water with
washed gives them q luster like new.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-04-28
Chiffon Embroideries.

All green vegetables keep their color bet
ter If boiled rapidly and left uncovered.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-04-28

The application of aSbit Of soap on the
point OF lead pencil to a creaky hinge
VIII cure its Stiffness sand silence its com.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-04-28

A small sponge saturated with oil Of Law
ender and hung near the bed or a hand
kerchief moistenSd and laid near an in
vaiid,s couch WILDE found an efficient ale
IN driving away intrusive flies.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-04-28

81, The best treatment. for a cambria or
with the strong alkali soap used in laun-
dries is to slip it carefully in a weak bath
OF vinegar and water, rinse well and iron
1t smooth at once.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-04-28
Expansive POmpadOurs.

has several little curls added to soften it.
1t was worn in 1900. but was not as pretty
as now.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-04-28

An effective cement for mending cracks
IN a stove or oven is made by using wood
ashes and salt in equal quantities mixed
with water to paste This soon hardens
with the heat. making q surface almost as
firm as the original
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-04-28

Rhubarb canned with equal quantities of
pineapple and cranberries Is recommended
az delicious combination. Pale green and
PINK effects for the popular color teas may
De obtained by canning young and tender
pleplant with the skin on.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-04-28

A johnnycake so cheap that even the I'M
pecunious housekeeper can afford it, and so
delicious that the critical wayfaring man
will not turn up his nose at it. is made as
follows: Stir together one tablespoonful
each of drippings Chicken oil preferreD
and sugar. Add one beaten egg, a salt
spoon of salt and one cupful of sour milk
into which one-half teaspoon of soda has
been beaten until it stops ''purring." Last
~ add cornmeal and -four in the proportion
or two-thirds meal and one-third flour, TAX
ing care that it is not too stiff. 1t should
be thin enough when poured in the pan to
i1atten out easily. Bake in a hot oven
Cameron County press. [volume] (Emporium, Cameron County, Pa.) 1866-1922, 1900-03-15

you oughtn't to be here, sir" gasped
Ogilvy. I'm all right, my boy" said
the general. The staff fingered about
the place; Sir Redvers Butler was eat
ing sandwiches, and from the scat
tered groups of men emerged one of
the most gallant trios that ever tried
to win the Victoria cross.
Off the three went for the guns-I saw
them go-Schofield, Congreve, who had
been leisurely giving me notes out of
his pocketbook an hour before up near
the naval battery, and young Roberts.
1t was all no good; a general
retirement was ordered, ten guns were
left on the field. Sir Redvers
Butler and his staff came by me on their
return. The general climbed down
Imply and wearily from his horse like
an old, old man. l thought he was
wounded with veXation; l did not know
then that he was wounded-though
slightly-with bullet, which had
been passed round his ribs. The horse
of Lord Gerard, one of his aids-de-camp,
Cameron County press. [volume] (Emporium, Cameron County, Pa.) 1866-1922, 1900-03-15
BESSEMER STEEL.
Product Of American Mills Increased
Il Per Cent. During 1899.

Philadelphia, March S.-The Ameri-
can Iron and Steel association has re-
ceived complete statistics of the pro-
Guction of Bessemer steel ingots and
Bessemer steel rails in the United
States in 1899, except the comparative
ly small quantity of standard rails and
street rails which We're made from
purchased blooms, or were re-rolled
from old steel rails. The total pro-
duction of Bessemer steel ingotS in
1899 was 7,5S6,354 gross tons, against
6,609,017 tons in 1898, showing an in
crease in 1899 of 977,337 tons, or over
IA per cent. The production of 1899
was more than twice the production
of 1894 and was almost twice the pro-
duction of 1896. OF the ingots pro-
duced in 1899 Pennsylvania made g.
96S,179 tons, Ohio 1872 tons, Hi
nois 1,211, ,246 tons, other states 727,092
tons.
The production of all kinds of Bes-
semer steel rails direct from ingots by
gots in 1899 was 2,24O,767 gross tons,
against similar production in 1898
of 1,955,4 tons, and 1,6l4,399 tons in
1897.
Of the total production of Bessemer
rails in 1899 Pennsylvania made l.
224,S07 tons and other states made
1,Ol5. $50 tons.
Cameron County press. [volume] (Emporium, Cameron County, Pa.) 1866-1922, 1900-03-15
EXPLAINS HIS ATTITUDE.
President tMcEkiniey Tells why He Has
Agreed TO Sign the Porto Rican Tar
lf RiII.

Washington, March THE Post
says: President Mckinley, in conver-
ssation with callers at the White House
yesterday reiterated his belief that
the people of Porto Rico were entitled
to free trade with the United States.
He made it clear that his views had
undergone no change since he wrote
his message to congress. He still ad-
hered to the sentiment therein ex-
pressed. At the same time he said he
was unable to subscribe TO the theory
that the constitution followed the
flag; that the Porto RicanS must have
free trade as Il necessary legal right
it wise to impose a small tariff, upon
condition that the revenues so collect
ed all be returned to the island, he
had yielded to the judgment of the
house. The tariff, under such condi-
tions, would be no hardship to the
Porto Ricans.
He believed it advisable, at the ear
lest moment, to secure Il decision OF
the supreme court on the constitutions
al question involved. Therefore, he
had consented to the nominal tariff
and agreed to sign such a bill. He
left no doubt in the minds of his call
.ers--whom he questioned closely re-
garding the drift of public sentiment
that congress, not the executive,
was responsible for the change of pol
lev
Cameron County press. [volume] (Emporium, Cameron County, Pa.) 1866-1922, 1900-03-15
GEN. BULLER AND THE TUGELA
The English General Was Eating
Sandwiches Where the Fire
Was Hottest.

1t was during the advance of the
Devons and the Queens that the series
of brilliant attempts to rescue the guns
(at the Tugela) began, says Colenso
correspondent of the Manchester
Guardian. A little earlier-about ten
o'clock-Sir Redvers Butler had left
the position he had appointed for him
self at the naval battery-the situation
on the right was too serious for a man
of Buffers spirit to stay there now
and had ridden off toward the guns
with all his staff and the escort of the
Natal police. 'Out of this, please he
said-he was down among the naval 12-
Founders behind Longs guns now. The
Beers had perhaps recognized the
taft; the whistling in the air trebled.
Cameron County press. [volume] (Emporium, Cameron County, Pa.) 1866-1922, 1900-03-15
PROMINENT FINANCiERS.
Miller, of Franklin Syndicate Notorl-
ETY., Promises 10 Expose Them.

New York, March S.--The Evening
World prints an interview with Will
liam +. Miller, the head of the So
called Franl<lyn syndicate, who swim
died great many people through
promises to pay 10 per cent. week.
Miller is reported as saying that the
syndicate was started on a capital Of
$50 and that at least $1,500,000 had
passed through his hands while he
was in the syndicate. He said the
police made no attempt to prevent his
escape. He was in .Le New York city
hall when Brooklyn detectives were
supposed to be searching Tor him.
Miller said that he was merely =
tool, hired by the real swindlers,
Schlesinger, whom ne accuses of be-
ing the real swindier, drew a salary
of 5000 weekly.
Miller declared he is being made 4
''football' of by the district attorney $
Office. He says he will tell all he
knows when brought to trial and in
Inmates that it will involve some big
men
Cameron County press. [volume] (Emporium, Cameron County, Pa.) 1866-1922, 1900-03-15

The teacher showed no sign of surprise,
but said: 'Ah, I see we have new
scholar. What's his name, Michael?''
Michael said his name was Grip, or
something like that am not quite
sure what it was. "Ah, Grip, here,
Grip!" said the teacher, Hospitality
and sympathetically, and the dog came
upto her and let her pat his head. Then
she told him, gently but firmly, to lie
down by her desk, and he did. There
he remained, sleeping peacefully or
quietly watching the proceedings of
the school, until the intermission.
The children were all over their
snickering and wondering in a few
minutes and seemed pleased and cheer
full because the dog was in the room.
He was adopted as a regular attendant
and from that time on spent most of
his time by the teachers desk, though
often he accompanied his master into
the erecitation-room, where his behavior
was always excellent.
The teacher AYERS that her pupils are
Cameron County press. [volume] (Emporium, Cameron County, Pa.) 1866-1922, 1900-03-15
A TriuInphaIP Progress.

London, March Queen Victoria
and the people of London yesterday
celebrated the victories which have
transformed the campaign in South
Africa from one of reverse into one
of success. That is the only eXplana-
ton of the unbounded enthusiasm
with which hundreds of thousands
hailed their sovereign. In many ways
these demonstrations out-did those of
the diamond jubilee, although there
were no glittering pageants, but only
q dozen Life Guards, followed by a
little old lady in a plain black costume
who went to buckingham palace.
Cameron County press. [volume] (Emporium, Cameron County, Pa.) 1866-1922, 1900-03-15
A Great Smallpox Epidemic.

Jackson, Miss, March S.-An official
report made to the Kinds county
board of supervisors reveals an appall-
ing state of affairs in the Jone3villc
neighborhood, in that county. The
community is Loneycombed with
smallpox of the most loathsome form
and during the past six weeks nearly
100 deaths occurred. On some days
the death rate was so large that it
was impossible to secure collins and
rude caskets were made from rails.
Whole families have been wiped out of
existence. Many patients are now II
Q critical condition,
Cameron County press. [volume] (Emporium, Cameron County, Pa.) 1866-1922, 1900-03-15
DOG IN THE SCHOOLROOM.
Courageous Teacher Who Found
That Her Pupils Were Better
for His Presence.

Since DR.. Hale promulgated his plan
about pets in the public schools, have
heard from several teachers who have
made experiments of this sort with
success, says the Boston Transcript.
One excellent teacher had an expert
ence with dog which was instructive.
One of her pupils, slum boy with n
bad reputation, had a very ''ornery"
bull terrier which was sure to go every
where the boy did, and followed him to
school one day.
The boy arrived little late with the
dog; the other children knew that the
pair were coming, and they were on the
alert for scene. In came the boy with
the big bull terrier at his heels. The
pupils held their hands to their mouths.
Cameron County press. [volume] (Emporium, Cameron County, Pa.) 1866-1922, 1900-03-15
THOUSANDS OF NEW BANKS.
They VIII be Organized Just as Soon
as the Financial Bill Becomes =

Law
New York, March S.-Advices re-
ceived by local banking interests from
small towns and villages throughout
the United States indicate that state
banks in all sections of the country
are preparing to take out charters un-
der the national system as soon as the
currency bill becomes a law. New
York banks are already making ef-
forts to secure the business of these
institutions, one bank in this city
alone receiving more than 80 inquiries
yesterday upon the subject. One man
from a western town told a bank ofh-
Ger that he expected to start eight
banks with a capital of $4,000 each
Reports of similar preparations in
other sections of the country led to
the prediction by an officer of one of
the best known banks that 1000 ma
tional charters would be applied for
after existing restrictions were modi-
fed.
The Evening Post says: st was es-
timated to-day that any one with $4,000
capital could start a national bank
under the new system. All that is
required is $4,000 in per cent. gov
ernpment bonds, which could be Sc
cured at ruling rates for about $780,
750. These, representing the capital
of the bank, could be sent to Washing
ton and circulation for the full amount
of the capital Immediately taken out.
The organizer of the bank then has
only $3.50 tied up in the enterprise,
but could take deposits in the regular
way. Whether the system can be
properly safeguarded under such re-
quirements is not known.
"Such extension of the system is
| expected to yield large profits to ma
tional banks of this city, since state
banks at interior points, keeping their
balances with state banks or trust
companies in this city, will have to
| transfer their accounts to national
banks Gf they wish them counted as
reserve) as soon as the new charters
are taken out. This, it is thought,
may result in a serious loss for some
of the large state banks"
A bank president cited the difficult
ties of the present system as the rea-
son why New York banks, with their
enormous volume of businesS, found
it eXpedient to take out only about
|
! ing 120 or 1870 for per cent. bond
on which only 80 per cent. of circula-
tion could be issued would have to lie
up $50 or $40 on each 500 so invested,
besides paying double the tax called
for in the proposed law. On that ba-
sis the transaction would be decidedly
Improbable, to say nothing of the ex-
penses incident to printing, etc, which
would still further cut into the in
come. This is why local banks, carry
ing the greatest number of out of
town accounts and shipping millions
of currency each year to western,
eastern and southern correspondents
when crop moving demands cut down
interior money supplies, took out little
or no circulation, although it might
have materially protected their re-
serves during periods of money strin-
|
Cameron County press. [volume] (Emporium, Cameron County, Pa.) 1866-1922, 1900-03-15
Boer Mark spi IL n y hin,

The fine craftsmanship OF the Beers
IS attested by the fact that of the 305
men wounded by them in the battle of
he Tugela in December, 1914, or more
han half, We're hit in the extremities.
or which soldiers usually aim. All but
light were struck with mauser bullets.
he wounds, according to the British sur
seons. being humane in the extreme"
rwenty-siX were hit about the head
md 20 in the body.
Cameron County press. [volume] (Emporium, Cameron County, Pa.) 1866-1922, 1900-03-15
Breaking n Record,

DR.. Conan Doyle is very quick
writer. 1t is recorded of him that on
one occasion, when returning home
with friend in the evening after a
splendid day of cricket, he remarked
that certain incident would make a
good story. After dinner the friend
said: You'd better do that story"
To which recommendation DIR. Doyle
replied: "I've done it."
Cameron County press. [volume] (Emporium, Cameron County, Pa.) 1866-1922, 1900-03-15

had been shot in the neck; Capt.
Hughes, the docto- of his staff, had
been killed-half blown to rieces-by a
shell; one of the Natal police (the gen
erals escort) had had his horse grazed
in the fetlock, in the belly, and in the
mouth, and two bullets had passed
through his holsters. That is the sort
of fire the general had been under eat
ING sandwiches.
Cameron County press. [volume] (Emporium, Cameron County, Pa.) 1866-1922, 1900-03-15

Paris, March 0.--The Theater Fran
caise the historical playhouse of Paris
and the home of the world-famed Com
edie Franchise, was burned yesterday.
Mile. iienriot, young actress, was
burned TO DEATH