The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-04-29

| sleeping beggars Its double rows OF orange
trees and japanese medlars turning uI
| their dry leaves white with dust At night
the scene changes as completely as on the
Prado at Havana. Bands play, innumera-
bic gas jets twinkle amid the shrubbery
the air is delightfully."- cool and the blue
dome Of heaven hangs its lustrous star
lamp over all. The few noble families who
keep up a ghosty show Of Anticipated state
drive pompously to and fro, while plebian
jewellers swarm the promenade, or seated
at little tables sip horchates de chufa, or
dulee de azahas-sweetmeat made of
orange flowers and water, essentially Cor
dovese in character.
Manners in the Ancient Town.
Much more beautiful is the shady Ala
media, with gardens on either side, where
the cool plash of water from innumerable
fountains mingles with the music. and the
air is heavy with the fragrance OF orange
blossoms, oloanders, and roses. There is
also the tree-shaded Paseo de la Victoria
extending TO the distant railway station,
and the Ribera, along the river bank, COM
handing a fine view Of the bridge, the
gypsy suburb. and the crumbling Alcazar.
BY the way il was the above mentioned
vi oil 1dIlluu. HbHSdihb. WIZ VI X iilutth
the saying so common in Spain, that while
other cities may be better TO live in, Cor
dova is eminently the place in which TO be
born. Its narrow paths are so roughly
paved that 10 walk in them is penance,
and its house walls. whitewashed at least
once year, dazzle the suffering eyes Car
riaEes are not allowed to enter any of the
principal streets and into most of them
wheeled vehicles could not possibly force
a way. As twilight approaches men arc
seen clinging to the iron ratings OF all the
lower balconies holding whispered con-
versau0ns with their sweethearts inside
the bars. This is the only recognized
method Of courtship approved OF parents
and guardians since time out Of mind, and
for a Spaniard to neglect his duty in this
respect would be 10 brand himself a lag
gard in love, unworthy the smiles Of any
senuTita
A century ago there were many rich and
populous monasteries in Cordoya, but near
ly all them have been deseCrated or turned
into schools and hospitals Prominent
among he few that remain is Santa Marta
OF the Jeronymites: the monastery Of the
Padres de Garcia near the barracks of AL
fonso II, and the Fuen Santa, just outside
the city walls. The once wealthy convent
Of La Trinidad is now occupied by corps
OF Remonta de Cordoba, or Government
horse trainers. whose business is to break
the wild horses of the Sierra for the Span
ish cavalry. They wear short trousers,
turned up with red. and brown boots. laced
and open at the sides.
The provincial museum would hardly he
worth a visit were il not for the Moorish
relies Among the latter is fine collec-
lection Of spears. the brim Of an Arabian
well in green pottery, inscribed with
text from the Koran: and a bell Of the
Ninth century. with a Mozarahic legend.
that hung in the tower Of San Sebastian,
the oldest convent in Spain.
A number Of delightful excursions may
be made In the neighborhood Of Cordova. on
foot in the saddle, on en- cOChe. Within
easy walking distance is the section known
as Alcazar Niejo Nuevo-just beyond the
city gate which Philip H. caused to be
erected on the ruins Of the Moorish Babu-
J. Kanterah, Gate Of the Bridge The
Aloazar troyal palace proper was built
on the site of Roderick's castle. the last
Of the Goths. whose father Theofred, was
a duke Of Cordova. During Arab suprem-
acy the archiepiscopal palace, stable and