davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-08-26

the American girl who has studied abroad finds
her power TO support herself no greater when
thc comes back from Europe than IL was three
three years before. when she went there with all
the money that could be squeezed out OF the
family and Its connections. She may get a
place In a church choir. II she Is lucky. or she
may teach. In either case the living that re-
suits from this kind Of occupation is poor.
Now the German women. who have devoted
their time to studying instrumental music. want
the opportunity to play In orche.tras aud reap
IN that way the benefit Of their time and money
spent in acquiring the art. Their EFFORT to find
employment is directed not toward the so called
"damenkapellon" that play in cafes and beer
halls. but 10 regular orchestras employed in
dignifled places OF amusement or even In sym
phony Orchestras There has already been
objection to their taking up this line OF work.
and TO accept a place In an orchestra after a
girl has prepared herself for a career rs a vlrtu-
osa means the acknoWl edgment OF her failure.
she has been compelled 10 fall, into the rank
and fNe. after d voting time and monoi TO the
attempt to become q virtuOsa. But that same
fate overtakes men whose ambitions are greater
than their talents. Most Of the viollnlsts IN
ordinary orchestras expected % be .%so!oistS AT
the outset OF their c1reers. Few. OF them eN-
pectad to pass their lives as humble members OF
orchestras, and they would probably never
have stud ed II there had seemed promise Tor
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-08-26

successful. aud in her d-iscouragem"nt turns TO
her old friend, the director nj the conservatory,
My dear < ri this gentleman replies, do not
be discouraged. You must first have a repu;a-
ton md that YOU can Oniy gain by a public
appear nee in the capital of the empire. Berlin,
Don't be alarmed. Ii is not difficult. You 20
TO az agent, who will supply for 100, 2U0. 800. 900
or 500 marks, Whatever you can afford TO pay,
u concert hall. uu fence. rcclum". bouquets and
notices Tho poor Erl pulls IA long face. thanks
him for his adv O. and Ro7s weeping home. Her
marks IN her pocket On she and mamma go TO
Bcriin The agent says. Three hundred marks
i not much, but lH do my best Your name is
schmidt You must change it to Schmytte.
Here l. a list Of persons TO zee. Next morning
h. Sends her n shabby cab to pay her visits.
She gives the driver Tia" name OF the persons
she wishes TO see. L know the critic he says
You u not sec him. Leave a card. that Is
enough She aIpears in a thlTd-Tate concert
hall. The few listeners all hired by the agent,
applaud like mud, the ushcrs give her a wreath
with faded ribbons. and then she and her
mother, over a glass OF beer and a trankfurter,
build castles In the air.
Bright and early next morning comes the
agent and collects 2JO marks. He gives her
the paper in which the concert Is reviewed,
IL i a review in three columns Dozens OF
names dance b'fore her eyes, til at the
very end she finds her own with half a dozen
lines attached to II. Respecting the APP
pearnncN ol the young violinist. Signorna
Schmytte at Piano hall. our representative
says that she did not play badly her two
pieces. II was not necessary to come 20
Berlin for this, rs IN every conservatory
there are dozens VINO can perform just as
we'll Mamma consoles her: II concerts are
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-08-26

deep cuffs. hand embroidered In gold and vary
ING shades OF blue. The girdlc Of panne velvet
Is In the deepest blue of the embroidery. a shade
considerably darker than that Of the cloth.
The double coat collar, which Is seon on many
Of the new gov IA. has tho under collar OF heav-
lily stitched cloth and the upper Of gold and blue
embroidery on white satin. Small gold buttons
outline the dart and fasten the sleeve. The
skirt IL plain save for stitched bands at the
bottom
Just at present yachting gowns are absorbing
much Of the attention Of Paris tailorS. Septem-
Der and October being great Mediterranean
yachting months. White serge Is. by long odds,
the f~avorite material for these costumes. and
the gold trimming, conspicuous everywhere. Is
particularly pronounced upon the yachting
gowns. Tho first Of these frocks shown Illus
trates the effort being made by many Of the
French designers 90 get away from the severity
Of tho Eton, while keeping its lines. Many of
the new French Etons and boleros are made
without darts, and shirred over the bust. Into
a band Of cloth Vt trimming which outlines the
jacket front. In this yachting costume. the
white serge Eton l. cut without darts, and the
fullness is caught into pleats, at each side Of the
bust, with n fiat duh gold buckle. The Jacket
II trimmed with broad. Cat gold braid and worn
over y white surah blouse aud q broad girdle Of
cerse Iannt.
The second yachting gown Is a severely Ilain
one Of royal blue serge. with an effective collar
Of heavy white silk edged with gold. large
gold buttons fasten the Jacket. and a soft belt
OF gold tissue folds round tho waist Of the white
silk blouse.
Velvet Il assuming more and more promi-
nence In autumn modes, and little velvet coats
OF all sorts are being made by the score. The
heavily embroidered velvet holero Is a prime
~favorite, but innumerable fancy Etons are shown
and there are knowing little coats. shapely
pointed in front, whore they reach five or six
inches below the waist line. but running up al
most TO the belt In tho back. 0ften tho coat
ends at the waist line around back and hips.
under a soft scarf Of chiffon which passes
around the waist and through n buckle in front.
under the long points Of the coat front. IL is
promised that plainly cut tight-httinR bodiccs
Of velvet running down to a sharp, exaggerated
point In front, shall be worn with skirts Of other
materialS, but they have not yet mnde their ap
pearnce. Both Doucet and Paquin have. how
ever, declared In favor Of this model, and are
already turning out gowns made with the long
sharp Joint In front. II Is becoming TO n sleIdeT
figure: and, skiliully handled. may give length
10 the waist of a woman far from slim; but in
the hands Of an inferior artist II will have al
railing possibilities. Panirrs may follow In
the wake of this pointed bodice as they did In
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-08-26

earlier days but the only Indication Of their
coming now Is found In the lace scarf arrange
ment which is seen on some OF the new gowns.
A broad lane scarf draped around the shoulders
Is caught on tho bust IN a knot passed through
a jewelled buckle. and taDs to tho sharp point
of the bodice, where II is confined by another
buckle. Below the waist the two ends are taken
separately, and carried in graceful curves TO
either dido OF a broad front skirt panel. where
they are fastened once more and allowed 70 fail
straight to the hem Of the gown. The eflect is
that Of modified paniers.
Returning, for n moment. to the velvet coats,
a stunning velvet Elton that would he effective
over almost any blouse was OF black velvet
laid, In overlapping vertical folds, and stitched
with heavy white silk. Its broad turnover
collar OF cream white corded silk was heavily
embroidered In Oriental silks and gold. and
edged with the tiniest Of gold fringes. \ soft
scarf Of cream chiffon. with embroidered ends,
Is run through an odd Oriental buckle. and
holds the jacket front in place.
Another Jacket, made TO be worn with a
beige yelling skirt and lace blouse. is Of beige
silk poplin. with applied designs In heavy
guipure touched with embroidery In pastel
shades.
Tho notion Of celebrating lace with embroid-
ery. medallions and jewelry. prevails more
extravagantly than ever. and gives the lie d.
rect TO the man who bewa'ls the lack Of eN-
trayagance in woman's dress. The Empire
gowns, steadily gaining favor. have called
for extravagant little boleros. upon which de-
siQners lavish their art. Lace, In flower OF
scroll design, IL tinted. In soft touches Of color.
with dye or embroidery. sprinkled with Jew
els. and lined with silver OF gold tissue. soft
tinted chiffon. OF delicate panne velvet. Won
der flowers OF eauze. hand painted and with
jewelled hearts. are applied to chiffon or net
and made into boleros over some light foun-
dalton, silver tissue being most often used foI
this lining, because IL throws out. with good
effect, the ~coloring Of the flowers and jewels.
These boleros are the most extreme notes
Of the seasons extravaganza, and the girdles
that 20 with them are no whit behind. Women
are finding n new use for jewels, in connection
with the Empire gowns. and many exquisite
girdles in real stones have been ordered from
Partisan jewellers. Another point In which
the Empire gown. so simple In its outlines
admits OF extravaganza. is the band of trim
ming about the hem. Many Of this season
Empire models show little nounceS about the
bottom. but this is not strictly correct. and a
band Of beautiful lace or stunning embroidery
over a plain hem Ia the appropriate nnish.
Fortunately, the Empire models lend them
selves charmingly TO simplicity a. well rs to
In the cut Is as beautiful in its way A. a most
pretentious confection. 1t Is Of palest yellow
primrose crepe. and is made on the simplest
Of Empire lires. with a broad band Of laos
around the han. and a sleeveless lace bolero,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-08-26
victim OF an Awful Calamity.


1T came ont as | journeyed on horseback
through Dakota that almost every settlers
land was under mortgage" said a Westerner,
"and one day when ] came upon a pioneer
seated on the grass by the roadside. with a
troubled look on his face, ! asked him IL IL was
the mortgage he wa worrying about.
"'WuSs than that, stranger. he replied, as
he looked up YEARLY.
sickness or death in the family?'
"'N uss than that
Then " must be n calamity, indeed. You
dldn't lose family and home 10y q prairie nre9'
Nope but YOU are right about III being a
calamity. I've been tryin' 20 think ~ that
word for two hour past. ic., sir: you can
put IL down rs an awful calamity
But wont Won "Nplain?' persisted.
II will, sir. Thar was a mortgage on the
claim, and was fcelin' as big as any Of my
neiRhbors. and tnkin, things easy. when my
wife was left sdOO. Stranger. dare ] tell you
what she did with that money!
She didn't lose itT
mo. sir. She jest paid that mortgage,
bought two horses and a plough, aud this morn
IN | was bounced out Of my own cabin bek ase
wouldn't peel OF my coat and 40 to work.
Yes. sir. you are right, It's a calamity-a
calamity that's landed me on the outside. and
between my duIned pride and her blamed
spunk solnebodyln be eatin' grass afore
Saturday night"
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-08-26
The Passing Of the Feminine Tan shoe.

From the Boston Erenin0 Transcript.
The popularity Of the tan shoe for women's
wear il a thing Of the past, according to the
statements Of lynn manufacturers who have
maden speciality ofthcir production in late years.
Without exception, the makers report a mark ed
falling on in the demand for them, and some
concerns have not sent out any samples Of them
for this SEASON. Tan shoes for women Mere
always regarded by. shrewd mon In the shoe
business a. more or less Of n fad, and were not
expected TO become an established feature
Of the business.
One of the chief causes for the loss in popu-
larity which the tan shoe has SUSTAINED is the fact
that q tan shoe, size for size. looks larger than
the black shoe. This alone was enough 10 bring
IL into disfavor. and when. IN addition. II is con-
sidered that the tan shoe. no matter how taste
fully made. could never compare with the black
shoes OF standard makes In style or neatness
Of appearance. its speedy decline In public favor
as soon as the novelty Of the innovation had
worn on followed as a matter of course.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-08-26

over a decolletc bodice softly folded. A girdle
Of silvery green satin souple knots on the left
side. and falls In long scurf ends. and a soft
crush fold Of the same velvet droops over the
arm under tho lace shoulder epaulet.
A black Empire gown worn at a recent Paris
function excited much comment, and. Incl
dentally, made a comparatively obscure de-
signer known. The gown was Of clinVing
black satin souple. moulding itself "a the blonde
weaHsr's slender figure, in a fashion almost
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-08-26

too suggestive Of Empire days. Around the
hem was an embroidery Of Jet flowers with
brilliant centre. A tiny Jet bolero matched
this band and a black girdle and scarf fastened
with a splendid diamond clasp. The gown
was sleeveless and d6collete. and. around her
throat its owner wore a soft dog collar Of black
gauze drawn through diamond slides.
The Empire effects are particularly adapt
able to tea gowns aud never before have these
gowns been 30 gorgeous and artistic rs now.
The Marie AntOinfttc. or. 10 speak more cor
rectly the Louis XVI. designs. rival the En-
pire fashions In the tea gown world. and the
flaming trained robes, with their dainty under
petticoats. their fchus. their elbow sleeves.
their huttering knots of velvet, their subtle
suggestion Of powder and patches and CO.
quetry, are bcwitchingly feminine, II less classic
than their Empire rivals.
Several of the great leaders in the world Of
French fashion have recently ordered robes
copied in every detail from portraits Of the
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-08-26


matter 10 inc average wearer OF good gowns
But certain pnihs III uhe interview impress a
reader nightly FOR the last 10" seasons
women nave dressed more ana more exuaNa-
gantly' and mur1nurs OF reprobaton nave peen
gong up from CONSCIENTIOUS crluos' NO"
inc fari-lan coHtnhler waits aiouu en' wakes
desperately indignant over the lack OF eAuava-
gance shown by the women OF To-Day III the
matter OF clothes EVidenty. IL all uepenus
upon the point OF view. and the STANDARDS OF q
husband and OF a French dressmaker diner.
The woman who spends Ms much as 10000
francs n year on dress Is a rarity, says the
Frenchman. Doubtless he IL right. Very Few
women spend $4,000 n year on clotheH' ana
there Is an excellent reason why most women
do not do II; but the disconsohte artist com
plains that even the women who can AFFORD
such extravaganza do not indulge In IL, that
the day Of tho great costume n gone and that
II was only tho woman Of the old regime to
whom dress was a religion. who considered
a successful gown worth any price.
The tailor-made gown especially rouscs the
wrath OF this %sartOrial genius II Il an in
sidious monster. II has crept in, like a thief
by night. and usurped the place belonging
10 better things A tailor gown Is IN excellent
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-08-26
Features of the New Paris
Gowns for Autumn.
ARE WOMEN EXTRAvAGANT 2
One French Authority Says Not
Enough Is Spent on Dress.

he Also Complains That tho Tailor Made
Gown uas Usurpcd a Place Belonging Co
Better Fashions Nevertheless Tailor Gowns
Arc More Popular Than Ever Now-New
Developments Of the Empire Fashions
French Yachting G~owns-yeiyet Assum-
Ing More aud More Prominenoe-The
Pointed B~odioe-styics In Autumn Jackets.
One Of the more serious Paris Journals re-
Gently published o long interview with a famous
costlmer OF that city The great man had
much 10 do with the Arrangement Of the dts
play In the Palais de Costumes. which Is said
TO be ono Of tho most interesting features OF
the Exposition; and his talk was Of q historical.
philosophical tone. which would be "a Greek
10 the average maker Of gowns. and, for that
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-08-26

keeping with the gown and Is a model to be
much worn with oil gowns during the winter,
Neither American nor English women
have ever taken So kindly To the elaborate neg
lig6 as the French women. Perhaps excessive
energy. iondness for athletics, a propensity
Ia De up and doing NJ all hours Of the day, may
account for this fact. but. nssuredly. a fact
IT Is, America. which evolved the Mother
Hubbard, can understand a Turkish bath roba
or a comfortable kimona, but only slowly Is
the American coming around TO the luxurious
peignoirs and lounging robes OF France. Cen
turtles OF crystalli2ing luxury and Coquetry
are necessary to bring woman 10 the point
where sic secs a necessity Of spending I'M
limited thought and money ON Uarb TO DC
worn go her own special delectation. in her
own room. and the American woman, with
her splendid vitality. has never. n a rule. re-
duced loafing Ia a science still she Is adopt
ing more dainty ncgligt robes. and this season
has BROUGHT out particularly charming models
In soft silks and muslins which are, after all
quite a. delightful in their way a. the gorgeous
silk and lace and chiffon confections beloved
VI Partisan coqucttcS
The large cut shows five Of these n~egligds,
all comfortable and simple. yet all calculated
To make a pretty woman fall In love with her.
self unless her room Is devoid Of mirrors
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-08-26

herr play the harp in orchestras and in England
they are occasionally seen playing the Nloun
and cello. Women trumpeters and cornetists
are found in the music halls. Women, IN, or
chestras here. playing INSTRUMENTS sultea 10
lieving the overcrovded profession OF music.
In which all women try TO be vrtuosas OF
faaohara
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-08-26

Louis XVI. epoch. The Dtrcctoire styles.
too, are having another day. A charming
one. shown in the cut, is of dull blue cloth over
aretticont Of ivory cloth, the beautifully wrought
silver buttons and the lace scarf at the throat
forming the sole trimmings An ivory felt
tricorne hat. trimmed with blue velvet, II in
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-08-26

makers who take them to pieces and applique
them fatty to cloth or other material. making
new centres, stems and leaves for them. Pop
pies are especially suited TO such treatment,
and one Of the Broadway shops shows a strik-
ing gown Of palest gray crepe applique with
scarlet velvet topples.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-08-26
PRILLS. or FASHION.

A new waIstcoat has made It's bow TO the
Partisan public. and seems TO have hit femi-
nine fancy. 1t is Of white tafeta embroidered
or painted In water colors with small roses
and is made, like a mans waistcoat, with a
strap and buckle In the back. Being worn
with a bolero or Eton, there IS no pretence
OF hiding this buckle, which Is Of the most elqbo-
rate character and matches the handsome but
tons which, In front, fasten the waistcoat over
"A jabot of costly lace.
Empire gowns are bringing In their train
a host of empire accessories. The tiniest
and most extravagant Of fans belong 10 the
mode. and every day handsomer ones blossom
out in the Paris shops. The Jewellcd girdles
and baudeaux are other costly straws snow
orthodox Empire couture Is affected with even,
ing toilet by some women and the traditional
single ostrich plume waves GUeT me eha KNIT SiIii
hair net that properly belongs with this Golf
fure and Ia remarkably effective over very
dark hair.
Soft crush folds OF gauze or chiffon. held
IN broad dog collar shape by being passed
through jewelled slides and fnlshinR. with
a chou at the back, are being wor9 win ne
prevalent deml-decoletage as well as win
full evening dress.
The benignant and popular white elephant
and pig bangles have In Paris given place TO
new favorites, and every other woman one
meets wears two. tiny .trlnkets IN honor OF
Rostand, one is a bust of Cyrano de Bergerac.
hat is a iTibuts to 'ItTTKlglon, -
Jeyelled trinkets In Paris have often more
significance In connection with public events
than the casual observer realizes. II IL not
long ago that the feminine Royalists were
sporting tiny gold hats crushed into hopeless
shape and wildly recalling the insults TO which
the President. OF the French Republic had
been subjected in a racecourse row Other
woman not RnNalIstE. took the tTlnkpt no
because It was chic, and wherever one found
women there one found also a cheerful ana
impersopal insult to the Administrator
woman's love Of novelty rather than their
admiration for Rostand's genius.
The plain black velvet slippers may be, as
authorities announce. the decreed mode for
winter wear, but shoeruakers are certainly
turning out shoes that are far from plain and
are veritable works Of art. Jewelled buckles
are decidedly In evidence. and jewelled en-
broidery also appears. A low white shoe
with a deep instep flap has both flap and toe
embroidered in gold and a gold and paste
giant women have introduced the fashion Of
having low shoes and stockings embroidered
to Z match the gatttr tern on n TIE iror stliP SD5 R %a.{
invariably showing gold, silver, steel or iri-
descent beads The, plain, empire skirt pems
rate foot wear, for they display the feet in
1nitely more than the frou-frou skirts do.
Huge artificial flowers Of chiffon. wonder
fully tinted. are among the new millinery novel;
ties, and 10 many cases have jewelled centres.
They will be remarkably effective on the lace.
tulle and chiffon evening toques that are to
be worn, These chiffon flowers, as well as the
beautiful ones In velvet. are utilized by Dress
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-08-26

Soft crush folds Of gauze or chiffon. held
in broad dog collar shape by being passed
through jevelled slides and finishing with
a chou at the back, are being worn with the
prevalent deml-deoolletage as well as with
full evening dress.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-08-26

The earliest importations OF autumn dress
goods showed smooth finished surfaces. but
now there is an incoming wave Of lifeline goods
with very rough hairy surfaces. Many Of these
materials show pronounced white hairs on
dark background.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-08-26

A new trimming just introduced in Paris
consists Of small gold or silver rings. sewed
to the goods of the Rown in two rows a few
inches apart. The rings Of the two rows alter
nate. so that velvet ribbon or cord run through
them forms points. and the effect, particularly
with black velvet ribbon or gold cord, Is dis
tinctly attractive and original. These small
rings are also sewn on the edges Of goods and
ribbon or cord laced across 10 form an open
work insertion over color.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-08-26

Velvet capes are displayed In Paris and are
pretty enough to win popularity. II favor goes
by desserts. They are made in a succession
Of capes. sometimes as many as six. and each
lined with white satin and bordered with q
narrow band Of gold and jewelled embroidery.
The high collar turns down deeply with an
throat, with a large soft scarf of chiffon en-
broidercd all over In a cobwebby design OF
gold and colored silks.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1900-08-26

Huge artificial flowers Of chiffon. wonder
fully tinted. are among the new millinery novel;
ties, and 10 many cases have jewelled centres.
They will be remarkably effective on the lace.
tulle and chiffon evening toques that are to
be worn. These chiffon flowers, as well as the
beautiful ones In velvet, are utilized by dress