The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1900-02-01

l
its golden eyes and scales, and said to
be "a dish fit for His Holiness, the Car
dinal when cooked with tomato sauce
and golden sherry" the Nero. about
which the Spaniards have a verse
| En- la TERRA, ell carnero,
En- la mar, ell Nero
which means that it ranks among fish
! as sheep so among animals. AS to To-
cal popularity, honors are about equal
| ly divided between the salmonetes or
| delectable red mullet, which appears at
every meal on aristocratic tables. and
the coarser and cheaper "Pinarojo," or
dog-fsh, beloved Of the lower classes,
who eat everything but toads.
The Puerto de Mar (sea-gateo leads
down to the mole; and the Puerto de
TERRA Qand-gate) opens midway above
the neck of the isthmus, which is
hardly two hundred yards across. Just
below Is the station of the railway that
runs to Cordova Seville and other inte-
rior cities. Close by the station is one
of the loveliest spots in southern Spain
"a tiny bit of tree-shaded floWery land
which former British consul at Cadiz
purchased and planted for an English
may be obtained near the Puerto de la
Caleta, toward the southern end Of the
promontory. In the distance the fort
and lighthouse of San Sebastian towers
nearly two hundred feet, it's flashing
light visible far out on the stormy At
lantic. The short, rocky ledge that
leads to it saved Cadiz from the sea
during the great earthquake which
overthrow Lisbon in 1855.
North of it rises the grim but benef-
cent Casa de Misericordia, the best con-
Quoted refuge of the poor in all poverty
stricken Spain. 1t is always filled to its
utmost capacity, fifteen hundred-one-
third being children. In it's famous in
terror courtyard a great ball was given
by the grandees Of Cadiz to Duke
O'Rellly, fresh from his victory of Sal
amanca, by which the siege of Cadiz
had been raised and Andalucia saved.
Following the ramparts little far
Their toward the west, you come to the
great show-place of the city-the long
suppressed convent of San Francisco
known as Los Capuchinas Not only
did Lord Essex make it his headquar-
ters after the looting of Cadiz, but over
it's altar still hangs the last work of the
master, Murillo-"The Marriage of st.
Catherine The painting was almost
Gn the year 1922, and died
soon afterward from injuries received.
His pupil Meneses Osorio, finished the
smaller subjects, but did not venture to
touch what the master had done in the
first lay of colors. There are several
other wonderful Murillo pictures in this
mouldy old convent-a Conception" a
San Francisco de Assis and San Lo-
renzo, whose preservation, strange to
say, is due to foreign Jew, named Pr
ezra Isaac, who seems to have killed |
several birds with one golden stone. |
love of art was the least con-
sideration. He was engaged in the |
vine trade, and to conciliate the then
lll-powerful inquisition, and to save his |
precious ducats as well, he have half |
lis yearly profits, an enormous sum, to
his convent.
AS to the sights of the town, they are
leither numerous nor interesting. In
he exact center of Cadiz rises the Tore
7igia de Tavira to the height of one
hundred and thirty-f feet Going to
he top, you see below smokeess,
VAAAtS w "7ii0o Sity, Us I'LL duoiCo anu |
zoteas all filled with idle gossiping
,eople; its lookout towers and fiat roofs,
rom whence the merchants formerly
ignalled the arrival of their galleons;
sota on the northern promontory; Pu-
rto Santa Maria, Puerto Real; the vii
age of Carraca across the channel the
FONDA mountains rising finely behind
he hamlets of Chiclana and Medina ST.
onia; and all the rest is boundless sea-
CadiZ possesses two cathedrals stand
lg close together, La Vieia (the Old
nd La Nneva (the new). The former
'as entirely destroyed during Lord Es-
ax's siege and rebuilt in 1897 The
riginal structure was thirteenth centu-
Y work, erected during the siege of AL
1nso X Pope Urban having removed
he see of Sidonia to this place in the
ear 1866. The only thing worth seeing
/ the reconstructed edifices is the sill
er Custodia, twenty-five feet high and
alued at fifty thousand dollars. The ]
ew cathedral was more than hun
red years in building and cost enor- l
lous sums; and the pity is that such a 6
aricature on the builders art was ever I
nished at ALL More interesting than {
tHel ~ LIE uHpIeleutlous HUE CIiuTcH
San Felipe Neri in the street of San E
use. 1t contains Conception by Mu- {
Ito and several other fine old paint t
gs. During the war of independence t
lie cortes of Cadiz sat here up to Sep I
mber of 1873. There is a tolerable mu-
um, botanical garden, two or three
lblic libraries and an astronomical OBJ
rvatory. There Is also an excellent 4
3hool of Music, supported by private
descriptions; and the "Institito' Is said b
have the most complete scientific Il
i'd physical laboratory in Spain. b
FANNIE B. WARD. q
RAILROADS AND EDUCATION. s