The evening times., 1900-01-06
SOME FOREIGN CaEESES.
Their Character Largely Due To soil
and CIimaIe

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The history Of cheese may go considered
as cOndensing the whole pastoral poetry
Of the Aryan race. The mild and gentle
COW, sacred still among the Aryans Of In
dia. fell especially 10 the charge Of the
women Our very language proves this
our word daughter comes from the Sanscrit
duhitar. meaning the mixer. from the verb
duo, TO milk Dug Tor teat, is doubtless
from the same.
Cheese making has been a feminine pro
fession from the start and on some Eng
lish farms 20 this very day the money COM
ing from the sale OF the cheese is Consid-
cred as the special perquisite pin money
Of the wife. England has long been IA.
nous for the quantity and quality OF its
cheeses. America. in a wholesale way. is
destroying all he traditions Of cheese. Yet.
though Ameriea makes cheese by the
mountain-load every year. there are not. as
ia England. France. and Italy. any lOcall-
ties famous for special brands.
The reason Is not far 10 seek our
cheese factories collect the milk OF va.
riOus areas. having different soils and
peculiarities OF pasturage. and mix them
striking thus an average, eatsbIe indeed
but lacking character.
II has been proved that the quality
depends on the pdsturage. Cows dairy
maids. and special methods Of making have
been taken from Cheshire TO another part
OF England, and the result was a produc,
very different from the famous Cheshire
cheese. 'heddsr too which comes from a
vale in Somerset has a favor for which
there is To chemical counterfeit. IL smacks
Of the soil. 10 hreaJhes of the pasture
Bric comes from a small district near
Paris, and is a cream cheese OF uurivaIed
delicacy, but not easy TO keep during warm
weather.
Camembert. a cheese very similar though
coarser in flavor. which rs made Ia a larger
area in Normandie. has been steadily
pushing into favor.
Pont l'EeyQue comes from Noymandie
II is not, as some might suppose. merely
a camembert gone dry. but is intentionally
made more solid and milder in taste. and
is 10 per cent more costly.
Port du Salut is another cheese OF the
same order, but superior in flavor 10 all
except true Brie. Il costs about the same
as Brie, and it may take rank over that.
as that was done over Roquefort, and as
ROquefcrt did over Swiss. which was the
first foreign cheese that ever really had a
hold on the affections Of the American
stomach.
Roquefort. though its price yet is high
is a rich cheese. more fond Of lingering
on the breath than the others, II Is made
of goats milk and the chiarO- -OscuTa ef-
fects in il are caused not by rUSting iJ with
insertions Of wire. but dropping into il
some handfuls Of peasant bread
GorgonzAla. not French. but Italian. is
more expensive than Roquefort. though It's
base is lie same. namely. the milk Of The
goat. This cheese comes from the Milan
ese district Of Italy. retains its aristocratic
richness un spoiled by the democratic eli
mate Of An erica, and is a good cheese 70
swear by.
Wherein it differs from Limburger-a
good one 20 swear at.
PaTmesaa, another Italian or Sicilian va
riety, ha- tSen kept $50 years and found
still delicious and fun OF life and power.
NeufChatGi is a French cheese not a
Swiss as many fancy from the name