The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1900-09-23
Paris FASHION LETTER
FELIX FOURNERY'S LATEST DIS
CLOSES VARIATIONS OF sOME
OLD FAVORITES
MARKED CHANGE IN SLEEVES
CingIng Skirts Relieved by Slight
TrimminsS-CtrcuIa Rufies
FavOrite Gar
niture.


Special Correspondence of the Globe.
PARIS. Sept. 10.Fall styles are now
fully established, and to the surprise of
everyone who has watched for the down
fan of old favorites which have held pub
lie approval for several seasons, there is
but slight if any variation from present
forms and present colors c4eath skirts,
which have been warily made for adj
vance fall trade because there was no in
dication of other models now prove agan
TO be at the height of fashion; they are
bell shaped with considerable flare and
touching the ground all around, with
tendency to a slight dip at the back, in
spite Of the cry for>shorter lengths, which
appertain alone TO the regula ton tailor
made walking skirt of doub.efaced cloth
The fear Of draperes may be set aside
as but few models, and those made for
very slender figures only, show the slight
est hint at draperies, and that is in the
form of the straightest and scantiest of
tunics. The very smooth ines of the new
skirts are broken by cordings, pleatings
and stitching or any device introduced
for the mere purpose of preventing
woman from refusing her new dress be-
Circular RULES are prominent mode
OF decoration for the plain skirts, as they
lend more than any other garnituee that
jaunty flare around the ankles which
characterizes the new gowns. These
11ounces are as we'll adapted to silks and
FelVels as TO cloths and in most cases
are decorated with rows of stitchings.
Not all skirts are self-trimmed: some
Of
color matching the bodice trimming, as
Is SHOWN on a charming gown for
young lady The skirt OF gray cloth is
absolutely closefftting, without folds even
at the back and hangs with a careless
grace that bespeaks the master hand of
the couturler. 1t is very long and f1aring
at the hem, and has a marrow bias band
OF darker gray cloth stiffened and blind
stltched two inches above the hem and
surmounted by row of narrow silver
braid, which is used as much as gold
efalu on the gowns and millinery of the
season The bodice of gray cloth has
short Jacket with double revers and
collar of the darker and lighter gray
eIoth' decorated with silver braid The
nat also matches the costume, being of
the darked gray material with trimmings
OF night gray cloth and long gray plume
attached with a huge square buckle of
cut steel bent into a semi-circIe to adant
1t to the trimming.
among the black costumes which ar.
invariably worn with dash of colo.
somewhere about the gown, there is A
s'ioel lioeFat sprlnkling of all shades of
gray tan, brown and red though the ne.v
g!arlng shades of the latter. tsrroseflle.,
VI curfant, and corail rarely comnosn
Inc whole costume, but are used for iaci1
cts or trimming and for millinery mr.
poses In the latter field the black and
WhIte combination is profusely used.
though it seems to have fallen into te,,,,
gowns. =
Much variation is evident in tbe
sleeves. While many models show tbe
arm as closely encased. as tive hinc aplI
covered TO beyond the wrist. others
again are deliberately garnished The
hait-siecye has survived the summer. es-
pecially for home wear but il is inyaria-
bly, heightened below the elbow bv some
ouaphanous~ material, sometimes conplet
ing With a fail of lace which almost COW
ers the hand
one Of the most successful models of
the day comes from Lapenier4-s estab-
hsiilnent' and IS much admired for vari-
X gus novelties and new variations of long
favored 10. ms. The skirt of pale tan cloTb
Is of the clinging sort, and closing invis,i
DRY at the back with fly The plain
ness OF the skirt is most effectively re-
ileVed by an incrustated piece of heavy
tan guipure lace, the meshes of which
are entwined with fine gold thread
marrow band of gold braid studded with
turquolses covers the edge of the an
pllqued lace. Underneath the suipure the
cloth IS cut away, showing the founda
ton SKI OF cream-c0ored silk which is
made independently of the skirt. being
Joined to it only at the waistband and
finished at the hem with a deep pleatfnu
of the same silk
The bodice is as novel as it is attra ctiva
IN It's construction. It has a tight founda
tlon OF cream-colored silk, closing in front
and covered with a blouse of tan mons
seine de sole striped diagonaliy with
marrow bands of tan panne velvet. Over
this falls curious little boiero of tan
guipure, embellished with gold thread like
the applique in the skirt, and edged in
like manner with turquoise studded gold
braid. Over this a second boIero of tan
cloth, trimmed with narrow bands of tar,
panne velvet and tiny turquoise studded
gold buttons. The bell elbow sleeves Of
cloth are lined with cream-colored silk
and are elongated by huge puffs of fan
mousseline de sole and cuff of the same
fabric, finishing with a pleated rufie over
the wrists. The high stock collar is of
tan mousseline, and closes under the chin
with full bow of the same fabric.
-E'aliv