The St. Louis Republic., 1900-09-16

Special Correspondence OF The Sunday Republic.
New York. Sept. 1i.-Now that the oyster
has made his re-entree after an enforced
vacation. during which it is practically ex
cuded from the fashionable bill OF fare. not
one Of the thousands of orders that will be
given for luncheons, dinners and suppers at
the big hotels VIII be without the inevitable
half-shen course as a beginning for the re-
past. Besides this, the popular shellfish
will be served in innumerable other styles
well The oyster has become luxuri-
ously necessary adjunct TO the American
palate Records at the Waldorf, Deimoni-
co.'s and Sherry's, as well as many OF the
other hotels. prove beyond all dispute that
.he blue point reigns easily as first in pop
uiar favor.
Immense as the demand is for the oyster.
the supply seems to be always plentiful in
the season. The American coast is rich in
oyster crops. yielding enormous returns in
the cultivated localities. 1t is estimated that
in one year one oyster alone produces from
three to four thousand young. Oyster cul-
ture has been brought to perfection, and
oysters have improved in flavor, quality and
quantity within the last twenty years. They
have also gained a foremost place I'm the
list Of American dainties happily within
reach of the most moderate purse.
Next to oysters served raw on the shell
they are most popular as a supper dish. For
this purpose many OF the larger varieties
are utilized. AT all the large restaurants.
where the after-theater meal Is the most
important of the day. the methods for cook
ing oysters have multiplied and improved
until IT would seem that perfection has been
attained in this special department of the
cuisine. Old-fashioned ways have been en-
tirely superseded, and the general opinion
arrived at regarding the oyster is that it is
nj its best when fresh and raw or the shell.
and when cooked il is best prepared after
simple recipes.
The Unsuitable demand of New Ycrkers
for the oyster is evidenced by the orders
that have poured into all the large mar
kets for the last ten days. The true eDi-
cure, however, makes the consumption of
his first autumn oyster a rite, not to be
performed until the appointed day.
No food in the world suffers more from
careless or injudiciOus cooking than does
the oyster. For this reason it is most
popular raw. roasted, baked, broiled and
stewed. Even these simple methods must
heproperIy performed. The American oyster
stew OF the average restaurant. like the
IS a farcical tragedy. Both of these under
The hand and brain of skilled chef be-
come culinary Symphonies without one dis
.cordant note
The art, well as the science. of cook
ing. and the wondt rfuliy important part it
plays in the lives of men and women, the
destinies of nations and the plans of poll
Iicians. is becoming recognized as fact more
thoroughly each day. The two greatest
leaders of the two great parties in New
York State live principally on crackers
and milk. This is probably not means SO
much as il Is result. Political planning
is dyspepsia-breeding occupation There
Is less fun in the business than We might
imagine from the work of our clever car
toOnists. The politician Of the Twentieth
Century will probably have better CHANGE
. in this respect, as Americans are gradual
Jy becoming aware of the innate vicious
ness of fried pie and crullers as a break
fast diet and are rising to better and
nobler things.
Scientific sharps who are giving a great
deal of contemplation to this food question
place the oyster among the most ideal of
foous- They give II all tho opposite ele-