The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1900-08-10
THE BOLERO.


A year ago the creator of vogues
said very snavely, Let us all wear
boleros." We have been wearing bole
ros ever since, and from the present
outlook the probability is strong that
we will continue to wear them for still
another year.
1t may be short or it may be long;
it may be high-necked or decollet it
may be with sleeves or without them,
it may be single or double breasted,
open or closed, but "boleros" it remains,
and the secret of its success lies I'M
mistakably in the possibility for variety
that it entails. Hardly any two bole-
ros are alike, yet they all represent the
type, and all have distinct characteris-
tics that NEE. with the requirements of
diverse figures. A Few details that
have become too common have been
abandoned and no end of novelties have
been added, so that the original model
can no more be recognized in the new
perquisite of the bodice Everyone has
grown tired, for instance, of the long
tab falling below the waist line in
front. Wide Girdles are being worn,
and many are shaped into points at the
front and back. But these are not as
new as the tight vest effects, made per-
fectly plain, of some contrasting mate
rial. The vests are cut rounding off at
the waist line. extending down just far
enough to cover the belt of the skirt
Even more novel than this is the
q To- CT .l,,o
bolero The waist, not baing belted into
the skirt hangs a couple Of inches be-
low the waist line, where it is drawn in
by very narrow belt Of the same taf-
feta, that is finished off with q small
silver buckle, the shape of those buc-
xles that are used on the backs of the
mems vests The belt is fastened be-
hind. and at the back, that part of the
waist that extends below the belt, is
slit up.
The favori.e form of boleros at pres
ent is very simple. The little coat is
bobbed off evenly all the way around
several inches above the belt Occa-
ionally the front is left trifle longer
than the back, and it is so arranged
that it may be either crossed over and
lAStNHCb VI lSLt ppCiA ~ Nif9NlpoS u llttl,
richly embroidered color melange, I'M
der a plain bolero. The idea is a later
one than that Of using Persian silks,
though the result at a slight distance
is much the same. No amount of pains
is spared in the embellishing of the
bolero under waists, which, as a rule,
are sleeveless the sleeves being furn-
ished by the bolero itself, which is
made OF a material to match the skirt.
They are trimmed with ribbon embroid-
cry, appliqued with contrasting silk,
worked UP into a thousand tucks or in
crusting with lace motifs. They are all
in dashing, dazzling shades, which is
not at all in bad taste, inasmuch as but
so very little of them is allowed to
show. If brilliantly colored silk is used
for the vest, the trimming on it is
somewhat subdued, but If, on the other
hand, black silk Is selected, the garni-
ture cannot be too daring, the embroid-
cry often being composed Of white gold
and colored silk thread.
An attractive bolero suit is made of
lightweight covert cloth In a shade Of
elephant gray The skirt is laid in wide
plaits, each plait being stitched part
way down its length. The bolero, which |
is of the length described above, is laid
in plaits the width OF those on the skirt |
with the edges of the plaits stitched all
the way down. 1t IS open in front over
a. vest of sky-blue taffeta, heavily en-
in gold and black The vest |
buttons straight down the front, with !
small gold buttons, and is in turn open
at the top over a stock and chenliset of I
white satin. The blue taffeta shows be-
low the bolero all the way around. 1t |
Is slightly bloused, and is finished off |
with narrow stitched taffeta bolt fas-
tened behind with a small gold buckle. |
With this costume is to be worn a hat |
Of twisted gray straw and chiffon, trim
med with a crown of red roses and a |
spray of white heron feathers
Another gown in elephant gray that |
ravorite shade that women of uues-
fionable avoirdupois must certainly be
cautioned against, has double-breast-
I'd bolero, closed straight down toward |
The left side, In form both correct and I
youthful The skirt is simple in shape,
slightly deni-trained, and finished at
he bottom with a band of gray taf-
'eta scattered over with tiny cut steel
beads. A row of diamond-shaped
pieces, cut out of gray velvet, heads
he silk band, resting half on the silk
md half on the velvet. The smooth
oolero is finished at the bottom with a
1and of beaded silk, set halfway under
/ row of Acknowledgment velvet pieces
1t the top is roundjyokc and standing
'ollar Of gray silk, applied under row
If diamond velvet, and the tight vest
showing below the bolero is of gray
ilk, more closely embroidered with
'teel beads. The coat-shaped sleeves of
.loth are full length and snug fitting