The Republican journal. [volume] (Belfast, Me.) 1829-current, 1900-06-07

,
not been for your wonderful medicine: 1 can
not say too much in praise Of it think it is 4
worth its weight in gold. thank God for my 4
| life, and Or. Pierce for my heaithn :
| rPleasant Pellets" clear the COM 4
| plexion. \
| of the Spaniard. as we'll as his Incidence,
| is shown in the military names he has
bestowed upon his Astounding vermin,
while taking no pains to eradicate them.
Those belonging to the genus Pediculus
| he calls infantry: tleas. cavalry: and
the humble but industrious laborer in
the human vineyard, known in the far
| West as ''B Flat" is classed as artillery.
Mosquitoes are appropriately styled
trumpeters; reaches. drummer boys; and
so on to the end of the chapter.
] am told, by Americans who have
made the Spanish tour, that in every
city where considerable time is to be
spent. it is far better to eschew hotels
and seek some casa de huespedes-a
sort of boarding house. equivalent to
the French pension. There are several
of them in Toledo the best kept by
two elderly Senoritas, in a narrow street
near the cathedral Wherever you To-
cate, sleep is almost out of the ques-
ton. except during the middle of the
day when men and beasts are taking
their siesta. These narrow alleys. with
i'll high blank walls. carry sound like a
trumpet Not only the Serenos, yelling
the hours and the state of the weather,
make night hldeous. and people return
ing home late from club oropera, pound
ing upon their doors to awake the sleep
ing lnoZo or calling the policeman with
his duplicate keys-but ordinary CONVEX
sation has the effect OF shouting and
the passage of a mule sounds like the
tramp Of an army.
setting out from the Fonda Imperial
to do" the town. YOU lind Yourself at
once in the old Moorish Plaza de Zozo-
dovar-suk III Arabic Zoco in Spanish.
soke in English, signitying a market
place. Readers OF CerVantts, and .aZ
alillo de Tonnes will recall this 1910
dovar as the haunt of ro9ues and those
proud but poor Don w hiskerandos who
staggered and starved With their capas
Y espadas. For years it was the site of
national sports OF fire and blood. the
auto de fe and the bull-fght. Now it is
the favorite promenade and the general
lounging- place of idlers including many
a naughty and hungry Don, wrapped
i'll his picturesque capa. with his sword
clanking at his keels. You have no need
to hunt for novelties in Toledo for they
meet you at every turn-quaint old
houses picturesque groups OF buildings,
hooks and corners crammed with his
torical and traditional interest. the
marks Of Roman, Cloths, Saracens and
these lordly towers and left mementoes
of their occupation. Before coming to
Spain you read much of the wonders of
Toledo, and perhaps agreed with the
writers that the old city ought still to
to be. as formerly, the Capital of the
country. Once on the spot, you find its
objects of interest more numerous and
wonderful than imagination had pictur-
ed; but at the same time, you probably
decide i'll mind that a place so inacces-
sible, so medieval, so hopeleSsly out of
touch with the life and spirit of the
age is not fitted foKa Nineteenth Cen
fury seat of government, even in slow
going Spain. Everything shows the ex-
treme age of the city, and the impress
sion it creates of sadness and Solemnitv,
intensitieS as time goes on. Never was
d town more beautifully situated than
this Grown of Spain upon its granite
peaks eighteen hundred feet above the
bursts like a wild thing through the
nearby mountain gorge and foams at
it's feet. Some unknown writer says
Toledo has the color, the roughness,
the naughty poverty of the sierra on
which it is built. 1t is less town--a
noisy affair yielding to the commodi-
ties of life-than a significant spot for
the soul. Secret and intexible, with its
vast cathedral springing skyward its
alcaZars and palaces with their hidden,
mysterious patios, it appears in this
harsh, over-heated land, like an image
of exaltation in solitude cry in the
desert
Tourists come to gaze upon the dead
city as they visit the sphinx, antiquari-
ans prowl among its ancient monuments
and shrines poets and painters find
here rich material for their art, and the
builder suggestions for his modern de
signs. Though there is so much to
attest its former glory, you feel that
infinitely more has vanished under the
hand of the spoiler-that nothing ever
was, or ever could be young in this
skeleton city, ''where the voice of the