The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1900-12-13


have furnished rooms to let, hang out
a piece of blank white paper from the
middle Of the front balcony; and those
whose rooms are UNFINISHED, shift the
paper to one corner of the balcony.
The rooms are unwarmed, whatever
the weather, and decidedly bare Of fur
nishings, except for beds-eXtremely
narrow, prlson-li affairs of iron OF
brass, one for each person, though
there be a dozen in your family. A cup
of coffee, with unbuttered bread, is
served gratis in the morning to every
guest, whether he takes his meals in
| the house or elsewhere.
Gehona. the capital of its province
and a bishops see, is beautifully sltua-
ted on the rapid river Omar, just above
| it's junction with the Ter. Well-built
and massive, it snuggles close under
| the fortified hill, NORTHUMBERLAND of it
! (the ancient Geranada) being of the re-
motast antiquity. Throughout the
early evening its narrow streets are il
! Illuminated by electricity, for which the
| river supplies the motive power; but
| strange to say, they are left in cimmer-
ian darkness during the hours when
most needed. Perhaps the city fathers
do not think it wise to interfere with
the time honored profession of brigan-
dage; for this is the region In which the
sophisticated QuiXote remarked that he
knew he must be near Barcelona, be-
cause the cork trees We're full of rob
bers who We're passing the night among
the branches. Highwaymen are so nu-
merous hereabouts that it is unsafe to
stray outside the city walls, even in
broad daylight, unless we'll attended,;
and we were warned against climbing
the hill memorable for the exploit of
Lord Peterborough during the war of
Succession, as the road sWarms with
banditt, though in full view of the city
below, and soldiers are constantly
passing to and fro from the town to the
citadel on the summit. With all due
respect to her majesty's poorly-pa1d
army, it may be that the hungry sol
diers themselves, occasionally turn
bandits when a particularly tempting
foreigner comes along, who is sure to
have mucho dinero (much money! in
his pockets Yet the laws against
robbery are very severe. When high
wayman is caught, hed-handed in the
act, he is rarely tried by a judicial tri-
bunal Spanish Justice is too uncer-
tain in it's results, and too expensive a
luxury to be rashly INDUCED in. The
culprit is shut up in the nearest jail;
and in few days an order arrives to
transfer him to some other prison.
The robber well knows what that
means and sends at once for a confess
sor with whose assistance he makes
arrangements for the next world.
Then he sets out TRANQUILITY for his pre-
tended destination, under an escort of
civil guards, who, at the first conven-
lent place allows him to get a few
PAGES in advance and then shoot him
down, under the pretext that he is try
ing to get away. Report is made ac-
cordingly, and everybody understands
it-outlaws included.
You need not. stay long in Corona,
for there is little to see besides its
cathedral, which was found
ed by Charlemagne In 1888, pulled down |
and rebuilt three centuries later, and |
for the third time about |
the year 1888. Far better spend the |
days in run across the border, |
through some pass in the nearby Py- |
renees. 1t Is only a little journey to
upon the great French sys-
tenn of railways, where it Is short work
to Biarritz, beloved of Eugenie Bay
onne, and even to Pau Besides it's pic
turesque situation upin its mountain
torrent, the Gave and it's genial eli
mate which calls thither every winter a
large English colony,-Pau Is a place of
historical interest 1t
contains the grandestcastle in France,
five centuries old, in which Henry ~
was born and where you may yet see
his cradle It is hard to think of
King whose stately figure we are accus-
omed to see on monuments and in pic
-ure galleries, as an infant, rocked in
his golden she'll But here he was car
led about in his nurses arms, and
rolicked under the trees, and grew to
1oyhood and manhood-until he be-
anne the great Henry of Navarro" ]
whose white plume" was always in
ront of the battle. I
1t is two hours ride from Pau to
4ourdes, the most famous place of pill
grimage in Europe but which in late
ears has grown almost revolving, be-
ause turned into speculation, with the
DOL calculation of business and all the
esources of Superstition. Instead
.oing there we preferred to cross to the
spanish side of the Pyrenees-to rock !
ibbed Pamplona, whose brown walls
nd towers stand out in striking con- {
rast to their background of snow =,
ipped mountains. The long reaches of
'arren plain in front, called the key
f Navarro resembles the Roman !
Tampagna for desoation and lack of y
oloring. The railway station is deep c
own in the valley, and a rickety ON S
ibus takes you up to town, by a steep
Winding road, slSirting the lofty walls |
nd passing a drawbridge and gate I
fay. No trees are to be seen except a G
aw white poplars, spared when all :
Their trees are cut down because of the I
parish tradition that poplars were the
rst trees God created. Pamp.ona, the {
ncient Pompeiopolis. was founded e
obody knows when or by whom, and f
ebuilt by Pompey IS B. C. The Moors S
orrupted it's Roman name to Bambi- t
nah, and hence the present appila- o
on, Many times conquered and recon- S
uered by Goths, Romans, Moors and p
hrstians, the aspect of the place is t.
oW distinctly Spanish; it's brightly V