The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-12-16
NOW THE GERMAN Build
Can II Be That the Straight Fig
ure" Girl Is Supplanted?
n You Have Crow's-Fcct and Wrin-
klcs Beware of Pink, md II Past
Your Youths Heydny Think Sc
riOusly of Consequences Before
Wearing n Rakish Hnt-Wrappers.

And now vague runners are flying across
the seas to disturb the serenity of the
woman who has been congratulating her
self that she has got her figure up-to-date.
writer in one of the leading foreign
magazines solemnly assures us that so
lidity of figure in its most downright
sense has suddenly sprung into fashion,
ard that the svelte, the slender, the sinu-
Gus, shall, on that account, be highly es-
teemed no longer. The German build is,
in fact. the only correct contour of the
moment. and it is g stern and arbitrary
ukase of the modemakers in Paris tEai
padding. with an immense "P," is to be
called in where nature has provided only .
scanty envelope. This is sad hearing
for the thin woman who has been queen
ing IL in sheath-like skirts for the past
three seasons. But the plump people are
but profting By the eternal law of see
saw and roundabout.
Dame Fashion DEGREES that very large
hips and great splendor of figure gen.
orally should prevail, but also superim-
poses distinctly diminutive waist; SO,
with all this adding to and taking from,
one can but suppose that very consider
able amount Of discomfort will have TO be
endured, since locomotion and padding do
not go well together while tightly
sQuce Led in waist must, furthermore, sad
ly add to all these sartorial martyrdoms.
In other things besides the German
build we seem to borrow a Continental
fnr ia
mades are coming into widespread favor,
and one hears of endless successive
friends who have ordered tweed CT cloth
built garments from the gay Austrian
capital. Nest of these dresses are fur
trimmed extremely, and, therefore, doubt
less expensive; but that is question
which seems to have long ago disappeared
from up-to-date consideration, and Get
1t il you like it. seems 10 be the only
motto Of the present generation OF
women"
Parisians claim that the human body
apparently shrinks under the influence of
plum color, olive green, peacock blue,
navy blue, and, of course, black and eN-
pands with orange, steel blue, yellow, and
any shade CT red; also that high tones of
green and iilauve about throat and shcul-
ders reduce size.
Pink Eliminates wrinkles and crows
feet with unnattering frankness. Rose
color is only for these TO whom life wears
the same hue. The ''sere and yellow Leaf
is intensified by light groys as we'll.
1t is a brave matron that dons an Elton
jacket or a locked skirt oftener than she
is obliged to, or, with face over thirty
Ave, sports Alpine or sailor, tam"
"Rough Rider" or derby, or whatever is
the severe and stereotyped business hat
OF the moment. She needs gracious con-
tours and the twists of velvet and soft
ness.
A novel use is being made of fine hem
stitched handkerchiefs with narrow hens.
Many women cut them into the hem
stitched collars that are worn SO much
now.
The craze for machine stitching has as
sumed another form and the chain stitch
il used in close rows around the edge
Of cloth coats. the rows being SO close
together that the effect resembles mill
tary braid.
Large mufTs Of mousselne de scie of
two, or perhaps three, shades and boas to
match are very popular. The miiliners
are carrying these triiies. which are gen.
orally made to match or blend with the
hat. The three pieces in three shades of
grey make handsome addition to SIM
pie skirt and jacket suit.
Back TO the Victorian days have woTen
gone for their morning gowns. Those
pretty pictures of Queen Victoria, taken
in the days when she was only the daush-
ter of the Duchess of Kent, lock wonder
fully like the pictures seen today of the
home girl.
The morning gown of the French woman
means a dress in which she will wrap
herself for her first breakfast. il means |
lazy, lounging gown, a couch affair, |
suitable only for the slice of tcast, the |
cup of chocolate, and the waiting maid. |
Not even the morning newspaper does the |
languid French woman lift while arrayed |
In this robe OF early day. which may, in |
deed, have done duty for the previous /
night. Never q finger does she stir. not |
a hair does she disturb upon her dis |
heveled head. She lounges and dczes and /
thinks and, perhaps, allows herself 20 be |
manicured. But the robe has no smart
ness, only softnegs and delicacy. She
calls il 4 negligee.
The vigorous American woman, on the
other hand. plans quite different morn
ing gown. She has purposes for which
she designs IL, enc of these being the |
breakfast table. After breakfast she will |
sew; she will Icok after the busting; she
will visit the chambers to see that they
are properly aired; she will receive init
mate callers. Her robe of night is cas- off
at days first provocation, and instead of
II she puts on the first robe of day. which
is charming gown OF ali work, tea |
gown" she may call it.