The St. Louis Republic., 1900-12-09
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norman ana Noting
ham looms. many Of which take the entire
length of a skirt and low bodice between
the selvedgcs. They are far too fragile to
be stretched In frames, and are simply
tackled over the papers on which the de-
signs are traced. These are so elaborate
that several women work at once On the
same dress. or it would never be finished in
tine. and they are generally quite independ-
ent OF the pattern in the net itself. Some
lay on straight sinuous lines of black
velvet. and others edge them with gold or
silver braid. or with gold spangles, or tiny
crystal beads. or all three. Vast quanti-
ties Of fancy lace braids are also used, and
delicate chainstitch traceries in the finest
gold or silver thread. Many designs are ar
ranged so as to leave vacant medalIions in
TO which most eXQuisitely embroidered
sprays Of siiken flowers on gossaInerlike
gauze are afterwards introduced All is
done by swift yet dainty fingers, that never
mako false or a loose etitch. and. a. may
be Imagined. such work engrosses the whole
attention. as the least suspicion of drawing
the thread or puckering would be fatal.
Silken robes are cut and scanned into shape
and stretched In frames. The favorits orna-
mentation Just now Is groups of single
sprays Of roses both bud and blossom, and
just enough foliage to give the graceful
touch Of nature. embroidered in such ex-
quisite shades that they are. no doubt. often
supposed to be painted. The connecting
ilileS are UoHe III iiny pdliletteS OF many
sparkling hues. and the flowers themselves
are marvels Of ingenuity. Small petals OF
pink or amber satin are laid on the silk, and
then covered with puffed morseis Of white
or pink silk gossamer gauze to form a
raised blossom. sometimes centered or
caught down with a single bead or spangls,
but there Is no visible stitch
Occasionally a chintz gauze IS employed,
and to see II in the piece suggests nothing
30 much as q translucent slice cut out Of q
rainbow. In the case Of a life-sized spray
Of rose leaves. the underlay Is green satin,
veiled with white gauze, and SO delicately
veined and shaded with silk as to give all
tho effect Of water color.
Black and white for half-mourn'ng f. sIso
In great demand. and the dress executed in
black lace or gauze, with empire designs,
In sparkling lines OF jet, silk and silver
and with motifs in black or white satin or
velvet. much overlaid with white silk and
fine chenille, are legion. The materials
for these embroideres are got togeth.r
from all parts of Europe, and as carefully
collected as curios. or even gems. A beau
tiful black lace skirt Is covered with a de-
sign Of punches OF lilac and wister.a
leaves. all in black paillettes. and a very
happy combination IL is, fer the wisteria
foliage Is graceful, and that Of the lilac ia
heavy.
Aiguillettes or 'dangleS' are conspicuops
in the trimmings of the day, and they are
made separately or in groups, finished with
gold. steel or jet ornaments.
Arabesque and other designs wrought in
the '-dented' pearls that SO closely resembIs
real ones are much used. and are SO mads
that they can be cut into complete separate
parts. White and biscuit-colored cloths are
embroidered in chainstitch with silk and
separately, but combine into a very sub
dued yet rich-looking whole. for the cu1s,
Rpels. and rsvsrs o& taalor-pnade SaXAA