Freeland tribune. (Freeland, Pa.) 1888-1921, 1900-01-11
NEW YORK FASHIONS
THEY COME High FOR THOSE
WHO MUST HAVE THEM,
Bargain Gowns-Best Economy to
Buy Good MateriaIs-Wise Employ
ment of Odds and Ends-The Mar
row Turnover Collars.

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row Turnover Collars.
An out-of-town friend sent me a
clipping from a magazine, which stat
ed that tailor-made suits might be
had for SIS up She enclosed SIS, and
minute directions as to cut, color, ma
terial etc. | knew before | started
out just what wild goose chase |
was destined for, but she was a dear
friend and l resolved to take nothing
for granted.
| wasted two whole days, spent two
dollars in carfare and luncheon, lost
my patience, aroused the ire of divers
saleswomen because | tried to get
stylish, wellmade gown for the
money. | found at last the exact COPY
of the cut she sent me, and the price
was $40.
The so-called bargains in the big
department stores are bargains only
when the purchaser can remodel the
garment that is Slightly behind the
style and adapt it to her needs. The
exhorbitant prices asked for some
gowns and coats often apparently
have no cause for being. 1t may be
due to the special cut, the use of an
exclusive material or an unusual
amount of handwork that often dou-
bles the actual cost of the garment
Fashionable women who order their
gowns from Paris, or can buy the lat
est importations, have already dis
carded fashion by the time the great
feminine world is wearing it on the
street so the woman who is not par
ticular as to the latest mode can often
pick up beautiful costumes at low
cost, but they cannot always be had
by seeking.
Except for fleeting styles, it pays to
buy good materials and well-made
trimmings. One clever woman, who
does most of her own dressmaking
and makes her hats says she is very
careful to buy the best her purse af-
lords, and the moment the trimming
becomes out of date she rips it off and
lays it aside, knowing that in seven
years" it will be in style again. She
has an ermine collar on her new
tailor-made suit that was a Christmas
present when she was nine years old,
and white evening waist adorned
with silk fringe that decorated her
commencement gown years ago.
Il never give away finery," she says.
IF friend needs anything that |
have for certain purpose, | am gen.
erous, but indiscriminate giving is
worth nothing and never appreciated. ="
Fur hats are especially fashionable,
and if you have any scraps of fur, you
can, If you are careful, make toque
yourself, while sable and chinchilla
are the favorites, other furs make
pretty combinations. To cut fur, lay
it face downward on a board and cut
on the skin side with a sharp knife.
Sew it overland On the wrong side
and smooth the seam with the fingers.
The very marrow turn over white
collars can easily be made at home
These are made Of sheerest cambria,
Fawn or null with the finest hand
embroidery or edged with real lace.
Dainty embroidered handkerchiefs are
used for this purpose or even the
sheer hemstitched ones. These turned
over collars are slipped into a band
the width of an ordinary stock collar,
and this band is sufficiently stiff to
give support to the tie that is worn
A vivid contrast TO the animal scarfs
and boas seen at recent festival was
a boa made entirely of violets. An
other remarkable specimen in neck
wear is a very short chiffon cape and
long ends made of chenille fringe and
sable fur.
Silks, gauzes and velvets are all
painted by hand and used as trim
ming. OF course, the work must be
exduisitely done for there is nothing
more ugly than crude painting on
handsome gown, and even when well
done, must be used most sparingly.
The aim of dressmakers is to make
the waist appear as long as possible
and belts, when worn, should be quite
inconspicuous. On many of the cloth
gowns the waists are put over the
skirt and then the finish is the mar
rowest possible bias band with ma
chine stitching, the ends of which
cross in front or at the back with hook
and eye.
Fancy muffs are to be the style,
and all the good costumes now have
muffs made especially for them. They
are very small affairs, these fancy
muffs, but the materials of which they
are composed cost a large price. Lace
and fur are combined in most charm
ing haphazard way, with an utter dis
regard as to the value of the material.
A muff made entirely of lace will have
a band of sable around the centre and
tnen six or eight sable tails tied in
front, with knot of ribbon and occa-
sionally bunch of very fine artificial
flowers. None of these muffs are large,
and apparently are in contrast to the
large muffs of fur that are so smart
with the tailor gowns. Bear fur, the
black, the gray and the cinnamon
bear muffs with long boas to match,
are considered particularly desirable
this year, and when a woman is tall
enough to wear them without looking
like bear cub herself, the effect is
certainly very good. Sable and mink
are as popular as ever, while chin
chilla is used as commonly as though
it were torchon lace.
The princesse style of dress is be-
coming more and more fashionable, as
more and more dressmakers are learn
ing how to turn out a good-looking
gown made in this style. garment
that used to be called the polonaise is
more often seen than a whole prin-
cesse gown, although it is called by
the latter name. 1t is long, tight-fit-
ting coat worn over quite long skirt
made of the same material. and a
80 l.,, ,lr.x IL