davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Washington weekly post. (Washington, D.C.) 1878-1916, 1900-10-16
Crepe de Chine Much Liked.


Indoor gowns are almost anything one
may choose. Crepe de chine is much liked
Tor dinners and the like. as is plain Bru.-
sells net and chiffon. and cashmere has
great vogue for simple afternoon wea-,
With lightweight crepons and silk and
wool crepe de chine. which is far less
costly and more desirable than the silk.
Elderly women wear plain duh silks
crepe-trlmmea. but younger matrons and
girls prefer the lighter materials or com
oine SILK with abundant chiffon, and there
Is a tendency toward all white gowns for
house wear that can not be ignored. Last
summer saw fine white muslins made in
the simplest way worn for the purpose.
With sashes of dull black This winter
cashmere. Henrietta. and crepe de chine
are treated in much the same way. but
must be made on severe lines to become
mourning gowns. When all black Is dis
carded simplicity becomes the distinctive
feature that separates those home cos
tunes from those worn under other con-
ditons.
style and cut follow those laid down
Tor gowns OF general wear, except that
some women OF distinction refuse TO wear
Iurhel0Ws during the mourning period In
such Instances skirts are kept plain and
nodlces nearly so. but for the ma loritv
OF fashionable wearers no such restric-
lion exists. dinner costume recently
ordered FOR young widow Is, for ex-
ample. Of crepe de chine The skirt Is
cut after prevailing method in i've cores.
With a graduated circular flounce cover
a with plisse chiffon. The bodice Is
mug al the back. slightly full at the
mont and includes d fun front OF the
clinton, with tapering revers covered with
Gull passementerie. sleeves with Pouin
guits Of chiffon. and a softly draped bel,
OF the crepe
Another Is simpler In material. but
scarcely less so In design. The founda-
lion is soft wool erepon. The skirt IL
made IN three pieces with Inverted pialts
an the foot of each front seam, the Under
parts OF which are made OF silk so that
giimpses are caught al every movement
The bodice has soft plisse front of chlf
ION, ami includes "A fichu-like draperv OF
The crepe across the shoulders and ont
lining the vest. which IL edged with chif-
fon fTiils headed by narrow ruches OF
silk. and double sleeves. the under por-
lions Of which are Of chiffon unliEed and
Transparent Net gowns are amply full,
but Tor the most part self-t,lmmed or
trimmed only with chiffon. Inasmuch a.
the mOurners are not supposed 10 attend
formal functions they are seldom decol-
ieie. but often shog yoke and sleeves
vniined, and 30 give much the same ef-
feet In common With all ether gowns
u ace and similar diaphanous stuets
Their airy quality must be preserved. and
70 that and plain skirts OF net or chif-
ron are worn bstWeeH the outer ones and
me Iolnda'lOn. net o. chiffon j. used
olsr no silk u tho waist \ slnguiaFly
stseuYe example Is OF fine Brussels net.
the skirt made with three frllls. each
edged with quillings Of chiffon, and hung
The Washington weekly post. (Washington, D.C.) 1878-1916, 1900-10-16

longing 10 her 20 die 30 she could wear
crepe. may have a few thOughtless pro-
'1types IN those women whose mourning
seems more vital than their grief: the
great maiority Of WOmankind have simply
come to realize that life has its claims
and that youth should not be allowed to
live in too deep shadow.
Materials Are Varied.
Materials in place OF being limited, are
varied in the extreme. General cut and
style follow those OF the season, whatever
hey may be- with such restrictions as in
dividual taste may impose. As a safe
general rule the long veil is worn TO
funerals only except by widows. who
wear It six months according 10 rule, but
lengthen that period 10 suit their own
feelings IL they desire. Crepe has been
30 improved that II is no longer the men
ace 10 health it once was, and fine silk
telling. which is lighter. is substituted
for all informal occasions. so that danger
has been reduced TO the minimum. The
French convert the veil into a sort of
fanciful streamer attached 10 any hat at
the back, but 10 our eyes such travesty
seems absurd, and IL is wiser to cling to
the genuine veil. with the simple fat bon
net. until il is discarded altoget her
For street wear nothing takes the place
Of Henrietta. EudOra cloth, and drap
d'ete during the first few months Later
broadcloth, canvas cloth, and poplin are
all allowed, but the three stand-bys have
place and a beauty which nothing else
supplies. Both for reasons of economy
and those OF elegance they should, how
ever. be Of good quality. Poorer sorts fail
OF the luster and the dignifed folds, be-
sides which they do not wear well and
make an unfortunate investment This
season crepe. az trimming, is used in
masses, but not in narrow folds. A hand
some gown shows a facing at fiounee
depth on a circular skirt; another Is made
with crepe on the waist only, the skirt
being severely plain. The waist i'm cues
lion compensates, however. and is entirely
covered with the crepe. With these gowns
are worn nantes, long coats. or Jackets
OF dull-fnished cloth. Elderly women pre-
fer the NANTES, and the long coats are
universally chosen when the wearer goes
IN carriage but nothing takes the place
OF the jacket for walking whether il Re
N box form or fitted 10 the figure After
six months WIDOWS wear cloth, canya 5.
&c. Other mourners adopt them at the
expiration OF three months or of six
weeks, as circumstances determine. Few
fashionable women wear mourning of any
sort longer than a year or eighteen
months, even widows resuming colors al
the expiratio of that time while young
girls often discard black after six months:
but, as ] stated above. such rule exists
only for those who choose 10 acknowledge
us sway. Many women never resume coll
OTIS after the loss OF a husband or child.
but such cases are extreme and do not
represent custom, whose tendency is TO
shorten the period and tighten the Sc
The Savannah morning news., 1900-09-21
OMAN WITH IRON MASK"
How the Loss OF "A Nose Made one
Life "A Tragedy.

Eahf hFaGFuFs
From the New York Press.
After a somewhat remarkable career.
the Bellevue Hospital patient known as
the Man with the Iron Mask" is dead.
Thomas Oliver Cot was the name Of tho
man. Twice IN his life he had come prom
inently before the public
Colt was related distanfly 10 the cele-
brated family Of gunmakers Of that name.
HIS parents were weli.to-do IA Connect
cut. whore he was born. Al the age OF Is.
while playing hall. he was struck in the
face with a bat His cheek bones were
fractured aud his nose was broken Fry
sipelas followed and the nose was lost.
as was portion OF his face He was re-
covering In ward OF Bellevue Hospital.
where he had been brought By his fam
ily from Connecticut. when ne earned Of
his appearance
II would rather die than 20 through life
without nose said he. And / Wal
die"
In the hospital the head OF the surgical
division was Prof. Thomas G. abine who
heard the story. and said he would make
the boy a nose
"ou' OF what?" inquired the other sur
geons
out Of one OF his fingers" replied Mr..
sabine. and the result was the nrsi Sabine
operation. as now Is known
Colts LETT hand was placed on his face.
and the third finger relieved Of the nail
ana placed az the bridge OF his nose
II took swo months to grow a. there
while II was held IN position by a plaster
cast, and then u was cut from the hand al
the second joint. Thirty-two operations
and two years In the hospital made a new
face OF Colt. II was not beautiful one.
nut u was face. People stared AZ him
and made remarks. Naturally sensitive.
he became more so, and finally took 20
hiding his face. He transacted most OF
hts business through snosher person.
Mentally he was bright In business he
was shrewd and made money IN the pho
tographic supply business. having a
Wholesale place In No. Is North Moore
street. this city
In 1895 he fen IN love with Miss Plate OF
Orange. y. j. She was "a beautiful girl.
and he said she reciprocated his affection
aud had written 90 MIN chat she loved him
because OF his mind In November. lSgs
ne shot her IN front or Taylors Hotel
Jersey city. He then shot himself Roth
lived and he was tried for attempted
murder before Judge Hudspeth. He set
up insanity as his defense. There was
testimony by experts on insanity and the
jury found him guilty. He was sentenced
10 fifteen years IN Trenton After serving
two years he was pardoned. He returned
70 New York and again went into bush
ness.
His aversion 20 having persons see him
grew as he grew older. He continually
wrapped his face In a muller when on the
street. so thas he showed little more than
his eyes In cold weather he wore a coat
with q collar that hid his face Aa extra
sized strap across Il held Il together so
that ne nearly was masked
In August he was admitted 20 the hos
pital. Bellevue had saved his life thirty
Ave years before. and he went there when
taken 40 with Brights disease In the
hospital. fearful that other patients would
see his face. he KEEP, h mufiled and be
came known 80 them as the Man with
the Iron Mask" He died yesterday
The Savannah morning news., 1900-09-21
A nnrrr ola NIccro,.

New York Letter in Philadelphia Ledger.
4 letter received here from a clergyman
who has passed a number OF years IN
China. and who Is now IN. Hong Kong
gives m interesting sketch OF ii Hung
Chang and the two viceroys recommended
by him FOR appointment as commission
ors. one of these was Liu kwun Vice
roy Of NankIn From the description fur
nlshed OF I.lu Kwun by the gentleman al
luded TO- In the event Of an international
commission being appointed TO adjust tho
troubles between che Powers and China,
the gentlemen who would serve as com
missioncrs have ESCAPED the most novel
and amusing experience through the fall
ure Of the Emperor or the DowaEer EN-
press 20 act fsvorably on the relommcn-
dalton OF Earl IL
T.iu Kwun =. said 70 be one OF the queer
est Of queer Cinnamon. and is distinguish
el 10y traits that place him IN class by
himself While not 80 old in years a. III
Hung Chang. when IN his right mind Liu
Kwun b. quite as astute and cunning
Like most Of the viceroys. Liu Kwun has
made himself immensely wealthy by deal
Ing IN brih@s and reprisals. lie Is a con
frmed opium smoker. aud the greater
part OF mss time ~ spent ~ Nhchlus thN
pipe The result Of this devotion 90 the
pipe IL serious impairment of the diges-
tive organs. and consequently miserable
existence for the Old v'ccroy.
Tie has passeh into a condition OF second
childhood ana for several years has kept
himself alive ana secured strength enough
10 endure his opium smoking hy nursing
Ike an infant. There have been fearful
riots in his province during the past few
years. and one terrible famine hat the Old
man claims to know nothing whatever Of
any such events. having been under the
influence Of his pipe all the time
The Savannah morning news., 1900-09-21
TO KEEP ~ MISSIONARY WORK.
Presbyterian Hoard Against the
Withdrawal From China.

New York. Sept Ga conference was
held to-day NJ the headquarters OF the
Presbyterian hoard OF foreign missions
regarding tho present situation IN China.
Those present included the members Of
the executive council and the eight rep
resentative missioners 70 China, who eth
or were in this country on regular fur
lough. or have come home since the trou-
bic began The members. all OF whom
were present. are the four secretaries and
the treasurer Of the board
At the close OF the session the Rev. DIT
Brown said Il had been unanimously
agreed that there was no ground FOR dis
courogement over the missionary outlook
IN China. and that there would b. no gen
eral recall OF missionaries Those present
anticipated an early resumption Of mis-
sionary activity. and for the time being
80 was thought most Of the missionaries
should remain In japan or Korea IN Chi
nese ports. where they are safe. II was
decided that the missionaries who took
part IN the conference should issue an ad-
dress TO the churches. setting forth their
views az length An appeal Is also to be
Issued on behalf Of tho native Christians
most OF whom have lest all their posses
sions, even II they have escaped worse
persecution. The Presbyterian board has
already sent out some ,5Q.Ol0 In response
TO an appeal recently cabled from Pekin.
The Savannah morning news., 1900-09-21
WEATHER PROPHET a HERO.
Ran Through city ImpIorInE People
10 Flee.

From the Philadelphia Record
Galveston. Tex. Sept, Leone OF the
heroes OF shc storm Is Or. l. M. Cline
United States weather observer here. In
his office al the top OF the New Improve
ment and Loan Association building. Dr.
Cline observed the weather and al y
O'Clock noon sent warnings all over the
city tina, u disastrous storm was indi-
Gated A. this time the wind began 20
blow. ana by O'Clock It had reached 20
miles a. hour.
Dr Cline realizing that an unparalleled
hurricane was approa chlng went out
through the city on Southern Beach.
franticaily impioring the people 90 leave
their homes and fee to the center Of the
island. few accepted the advicc. bur
the majority would not believe the water
could submcrge and razc their homes
Or Cline had no time 10 explain The
outside world muse be notified that Gal
weston was near her doom. The telephone
and telegraph systems downtown were
wrecked Tho only way TO send a message
10 the mainland was to 80 TO the tele-
phone station a. the bridge west OF the
city. Or. Cline started thither. hut wac
urged by friends 60 go home and save
his family.
we viii DO cut or from the world ana
will need aid" he cried and plunged on
through the hurricane. reaching the sta
sion just before the cable parted. Re-
turning to the street whore he lived. Or
Cline found his house gone ana his wife
and one child washed away aud lost
NeiEhbors had saved three OF his chill
dren.
The Savannah morning news., 1900-09-21
WHAT DEWEY SAYS OF 1T.
Hardly Thinks Lieut.. Hobson Meant
20 Tie Inkind.

New York. Sept 90.-Admiral Dewey.
who Is stopping al sayville. Long Island
talked to-day OF the Hobson interview.
saving.
Il hardly thing the Young man meant
to say anything unklnd. and perhaps he
did not say what is said there The three
vessels he referred 20 are the Isla de
Cuba. Isla lie Luzon and Don Juan de
Austria. They were the least
injured OF the ten OF twelve ships sunk
very able mon. was with me and he and
divers and experts from Hong KONG made
an examination OF all Spanish ships and
decided that these three We're worth saw
ing. Three out OF a dozen were raised
and temporary repairs were made at ca
vite The vessels proceeded under their
own steam to Hong Kong and had been
there for some time undergoing repairs
before Mr. Hohson saw them.
AS matter 81 fact / never claimed
that we sunk the ships I reported that
we destroyed them. / ala see with my
own eyes an cight-inch shell strike the
stern OF the Reina Maria Christina. Ad-
miral Montejos flagship. and that de-
stroyed her.
The statement that the vessels were
not much injured below the water line
Is probably true. Everyone knows THAI
20 Is impossible for shells TO Do much ex-
ccution below che water line or for any
thing but torpedoes to DO much damage
there. 4 few inches OF water Is a great
protection
The Savannah morning news., 1900-09-21
ANTl-AMERICAN SENTIMENT.
PREDOMINATEs AMONG THE CUBAN
DELEG ATssS.

officials Arc Disappointed nj the Out
come of the Ele~tions-Fearcd That
There VIII ne Trouble tn the Con-
vention-Prominent .Cubans Think
~ Unfortunate THAT "a Revolution
AIRY Majority Has Been Elected.
SANTIAGO Has Elected IN Rnbblc."
Havana. sept 81 High American Off
cials while expressing themselves as sat
lshed with the orderly character Of the
recent election Of delegates TO The con-
stituuonal convention. are disappointed
TO fud that majority o. the delegates
represent The anti-American and reyolu-
tionary element.
Secretary Lacostc. defeated National
Isl candidate IN Santiago province, dis
cussiug the general situation to-day. said;
such men as Junyn Gualborto. Comes
Salvador. Cisneros. Betancourt, Miguel
sanguIy. Bravo Corrsso. MIRO Argenter.
and Or. Silva Will prove turbulent factors
In the convention.
1t Is evident that revolutionary ma
jority has been elected These men will
sway their weaker colleagues 70 actions
which will result IN an unsatisfactory and
possibly threatening convention
A wealthy Cuban. a member Of the con-
sentative party. said.
The province Of Santiago has elected a
rabble. The Cubans apparently DO not re-
alize that tho United States interviewed 10
rid them Of oppression. for. g such men as
hive been chosen 10 the convention there
should ever hold the rcins q Cuban
power. the island viii feel an oppression
equal 20 that Of the spanish regime.
In spite of Gov Woods urgent re-
quest that the best mon should be chosen.
the majority % the delegates arc OF the
class whose prominence causes the keen
est anxiety regarding the outcome OF the
convention to all Cubaus Of conservative
IDEAS"
The Savannah morning news., 1900-09-21

Charleston. sept 2o-Arrived. steamers
Har.lnnrer O8r. willis. Gibraltar. Conan
che Pennington. Sew York proceeded 70
Jacksonville: schooucrs Annie G.. Grace.
Eskr.dec New York. William X. sum-
mer. Yeaton. New YORK. Warren Il. Pot
ter Slocum Georrctown.
Sailed. steamer Folmina Outchl Van
Eyken. New York
Key West. Fla. Sept. 20.-Arrived.
steamer Miami Deiano. Havana, proceed
ed TO Miami tug Daunilcss. FLOYD. Sagul.
towing schooner g. Frank Neatly pro
coodei 10 Port Tampa. echooners Glazier.
Mcdonald Tortugns. LILY. White Puntn
Rassn. proceeded 20 cuba.
Fernandinn. Fla. Sept. 2o-saiicI
schooner Flora Rogers, Cook, ST. Vincent
Port Tampa. Fla. sept 20.-Arrived.
steamer Muscotte. White. Havana via
Kew West (sailcd on return.
Baltimore. sept ~. Sailed. steamer D.
n Miller. savannah.
Arrived, steamer Fannie Reiche. Charles
ton
New Y.1K. sept % Sailed. steamer
Ettrickdaie. Savannah.
Philadelphia. Sept. 20.-Arrived steamer
Harry 4. Berwind. Savannah; Anna L.
Mullord Charleston.
The Savannah morning news., 1900-09-21

Exceptions and protests by the author
iies OF Gwinnett county have been nled
with Secretary Of State Phil Cook asalus,
the survey OF county lines between GOio-
nett and Han counties. The plan OF allow
ing dissatisfied counties 20 filo cxcep,ions
ana protests against the decision of a..
surveyor are new features in the state
government. an act having been passed
IN December 1899. Previous 60 that time
the decision OF the surveyor was nual but
now counties can file papers with the see.
rotary OF the state aud he hears the ey-
idence ana either afiirms or denies the de-
cision OF the surveyor. The present c1se
f. the second one OF the kind since the
passage Of the act
The Savannah morning news., 1900-09-21
INVENTIONS.
Few Lucky Accidents In Devising
Profitable ones Nowadays.

From the New Orleans Times Democrat.
Most Of tho big discoveries and i'm
portans inventions Of times gone by were
lucky accidents" remarked an engineer OF
this city the other day: but az present
chance plays less and less Of role in
such affairs. We have accumulated so
much abstract Information that an invcn-
tor can figure out problem in mechanics
very much as he would figure out an ex-
ample In arithmetic. a manufacturer
for instance. wants special machine 70
do a special class Of work-so peg shoes.
cut buttons trim corks. head tacks
stamp dies. thread screws. wind arma-
lures. or do any one OF a hundred other
things. lie calls in mechanical expert.
explains the requirements OF the case. and
tho expert begins 20 figure out the ma
chine. II he gets stuck other experts are
called into conference. and the compile
ton Of the design IS only matter Of Zine.
There is no luck or accident about g. be-
cause the work g. based on established
principle IN mechanics.
1.-The larger part Of the elaborate spe-
Cial machinery IN modern manufactures
Is evolved IN that manner and some
grea, houses keep one or more inventors
employed an the year round. perfecting
different details In the plant or output
Very few OF those processes generally
known as trade secrets have been hlt
upon by chance. they are usually the
outcome 81 patient and intelligent expert
ment with a definite end In view | know
n manufacturer OF celluloid articles who
wanted 10 get q certain clouded. tortoise
shell effect ard kept q high-priced chem
ist on the problem for over n year lie
got little nearer 20 the solution every
day. and finally hh a..
II dare say no less than thousand
electrical experts are at work to-day on
ou improved storage battery. They knew
what they want and have enough data TO
enable them 10 keep straight a. the mark
without experimenting merely at random.
Nothing Is more certain than ultimate sue
cess. although the difficulties nre formula
bic and they are not 20 be overcome IN
doy Probably half a dozen will reach the
goal az about the same time"
The Savannah morning news., 1900-09-21

An Interesting legal point under consld-
Grafton by the comptroller and attorney
general is whether or not brokers shall
have 20 pay separate license for each
place OF business IA eases whore two or
more are conducted under the same man
agement and owned boy the sam, parties.
Murphy a. Co. Of Atlanta. who also
operate the Southern Exchange have.
through their attorney. Col Brown. 81
Grey. Brown d Randolph. consulted with
the attorney general Ia regard 70 tho
matter, ana some decision viii be made
within the next few days The tax Is
81 600 for each separate business conduct
ed under different name, and the qucs-
ton involved some money.
The Savannah morning news., 1900-09-21
TAKES HoBsoN's VIEW.

Spanish Vessels Not sunk by Adj
mirnI Dewry's shells.
New York. Sept 20 Lieut. Commander
n. T. Hall Of the Brooklyn navy yard
to-day talked about Lieut. Hobson's in
terview apropos OF Deweys achievement
~ Manila. MIR. Hall saii
when the hulis OF the Spanish ships
sunk az Manila were raised they were
found to be all right. They were simply
watersoaked. aside from the burned tops
n the decks II seems to M as II the
Spaniards seeing that their OPPOSITE
Ion was OF no use against the United
Stotes vessels. took refuge back 81 n land
projection and there sent some Of their
ships TO the bottom OF course some OF
The Spanish ships were sunk immediate
ly"
Hall held a commission with Dewey al
Manila
The Savannah morning news., 1900-09-21
REconDER's couRr CASES.

Larceny. NaErancy. Gambling nnd
Forgery Make ~ the On~nres.
In the Recorder Court yesterday Nor
ris Thomp on ana Andrew saxton. the ne
groes arrested for the theft Of cigars
from Messrs Smith Bros. were remand
el 20 the city Court
Smart Albright and Alec Haygood were
sent 20 the same tribunal on the charge
OF vagraucy.
George Frlzzsll white. arrested for
gambling in tho street was sentenced TO
thirty days Ia Jail. while Michael Hayes
who WAS arrested on the same charge had
his sentence suspended
Henry Holmes. colored. charged with
foraery was sent 20 the Superior Court.
The Savannah morning news., 1900-09-21

Quiet MoIIusk Formed n strong At
tachmenf
From thn - Ynrk Wnrld-

From the New York World
Atlantic city. Sept is.-T, was only an
Innocent sand clam but several thousand
oathers had fright because Of g.
As for Miss Elizabeth Carbon. OF Six
teenih and Race streets. Philadelphia. shs
VIII never tuck another sand clam inside
her bathing suit for safe keeping Thlt
clam has sent her 10 bed and has callei
the doctor
Miss Carlton is possessed OF much beau
~. likewise Of 2O pounds Of avoirdupo's.
She came 10 Atlantic CITY to-day with sew
eral thousand other excursionists from
Philadelphia with the others she went
bathing. When she stepped on something
ana found " TO be "A fine. big sand clam
four inches long. she tucked IL into her
bathing dress.
About one minute later there were sew
eral yells that made every bather stop
bathing.
woman drowning was the cry.
Thousands OF eyes we're focused on MISS
Carlton. She was standing IN water
scarcely up 20 her knees screaming ana
clutching frantically az the waist Of her
bathing suit. wherein the sand clam haa
been placed
Help helpr' she shr.eked. and made
wild rush for her bathing house.
When woman Attendant reached MIS-
Carlton she found that the clam mo-
tackled in good style and was hanging on.
Miss Carlton was badly bitten by w
Jealous molluks. II had 10 be broken y
hammeriug before she was freed.