The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1900-04-01
IN THE STREETS OF CAIRO
A Description of the Oldest Town
in Egypfs Territory.
Hir,cIes aud Automobiles MinEiinG
with Camel Caravans and Donkey
binn Quarter-wcarine and Dis
comforts of the Trip Up the Nile.


itants number 500. 900. of which 1000 are
Furopeans The citadel of Cairo is its
most copspicuous edifice. 1t is built upon
a rocky cliff towering above the city ana
constructed of stones taken from the small
pyramid of Ghizeh. 1t is now one oil the
barracks of the British army OF occupa-
ton. The walls are massive and IN some
places 100 feet in height. The view from
its ramparts. especially during sunset, is
wonderful and not soon forgotten.
Immediately below. in the foreground, is
the whole of Cairo with the carved domes
and the minarets of its 800 mosques. Be
yond the palms and foliage of the town Is
seen the green valley of the Nile, with
glimpses of the glistening river and
score of sailboats called ''dahabeahs;" on
the western horizon rise the majestic pyr-
amids while around them and far beyond
stretches the Libyan desert like a bill
lowy ocean. The setting sun gives TO the
whole scene a wealth of coloring and
beauty gorgeous beyond description.
The streets of Cairo present constant
panorama, every hour quite different from
the preceding. bewildering crowd Of
people of every grade and position pass
hither and thither, going and coming.
Springless donkey carts, each crowded
with a dozen or more ehattering, yelled
women of the poorer classes. proceed
slowly through the streets. \ corpse goes
by in a rude box. carried on the shoulders
of several coolies, en- route to mosque or
cemetery. accompanied by the loud-wail-
ing professional mourners.
Hundreds of well-trained donkeys. nice
" saddled and ornamented with necklaces
of jinglng brass bangles. etc, dodge
among the crowd, wonderfully, almost in
diligently, avoiding all obstacles. The
rider often thinks he did it, but in reality
il was the donkey. Numerous Arabs are
galloping their donkeys. returning for
fresh burdens. riding without saddle OF
bride. Donkeys drawing drays are fed
grass from the hand of the Arab driver
as together they trudge along the city S
streets. Neither lines nor brides are
used; shout or pull does as well.
Camel trains. each camel tied to the pre-
ceding one and all bearing immense loads,
Pass slowly and with silent tread.
Brdouins ON Their Travels.
Here and there are swarthy Bedouins
with guns. fresh from the desert, riding
upon running camels whose swinging gait
gives even the spectator a sensation of
optical seasickness.
There are many incoming caravans of
camels and donkey trains, laden with
Egyptians and with produce, occasionally
a child strapped among the wares in a
huge basket. TO balance the camefs COM
bination load. Numerous camels are laden
with immense stacks of green grass, fine
ly chopped straw packet in nets. or dried
brushwcod. The load reaches the ground
and completely hides the camel except its
head. Such a caravan has the appearance
Of creeping or dancing straw stacks.
Occasionally you see British soldiers.
mounted and afoot, singly and in squads,
in bright red coats or other styles of head
gear and uniform. Many of them are
Highlanders in kits. The Egyptian SOL
diers and police are in sombre uniform.
There is constant whirl of carriages.
announced by the sharp. loud cracking of
the whips of Egyptian -'syces," who call
'Ullah ullah," (hasten. hastenD. and the
natives afoot and even lady tourists are
compelled to run to escape injury at street
crossings, there being no regulations en-
forced nor police supervision.
The Khedive's carriage is preceded by
two fleet footmen in gold embroidered
Jackets and white Turkish trousers, who
shout loudly at intervals. II is surprising
how quickly vehicles get out of the way.
as though at the approach of fire engine.
Foreign cyclists of both sexes are numer-
Gus. \ few automobiles speed past. Chief
ly victorias, coupes and donkeys are used
by tourists. Lalies and men of all nations
feel impelled to ride donkey in Cairo.
Society ladies bounce along on these docile
animals. frequently held in saddle the en-
tire distance by the blue-gowned donkey
boy who runs at the side. Tallyho coaches
pass with merry parties. The shouts of
feet runners and rumble of heavy wheels
announce the glistening darkened car
risges with the harem. An occasional pri-
waite London coachmsn. with silk hat and
livery. attracts attention-on odd sight
umong the Egyptian syces, who envy his
style and try to initiate it.
The fashionable driveways through the
modern quarter and the roads from both
sides OF the broad Nile Valley converge at
the Kasr-el-Nil bridge, the one point OF
crossing. The procession comes from all
parts OF the country. In the early morn
ing hours large crowd Of peasantry halt
near the bridge to pay duty on the produce
they are bringing TO market.
From long before dawn until far into the
night the Great Bridge" is thronged
packed with a steady stream of excited.
struggling humanity. herds of animals,
etc, except an hour-from l to D. M
when the drawbridge is open. and then a
mass accumulates on either side. and a ter
Tible uproar and clamor result from the
hoarse groaning OF the camels. which
seem 10 be complaining of their hard lot
the noisy. incesssant braying OF the don
keys, the bleating of sheep and goats. the
lowing Of the cattle. the loud cracking Of
The carriage whips, the yells OF donkey
boys and the babel of voices and shouts
Of the multitude. all OF which and more
serve to make the place at that time 4
very pandemonium. until at last the pro-
cession OF fashionable carriages threads
its way through the confusion and crosses
the bridge TO the boulevards beyond.
ThoroughEare- OF Limited Space
The old portion OF Cairo is sul the city
OF Aladdin and the Arabian Nights. Its
streets are very narrow aud tortuous, ne
cessitstiue walking OF riding upon don
key: only few blocks have been widened
sufficient for carriages. The homes or the
better class have all windows and balco-
niles closed with lattice york in great
variety of patterns and shapes The iat
roof of dwellings are fayorite resort for
air and sunshine. Some OF the bazaar
streets have space less than three feet
through which to walk Workers in metal
etc. sit on the lloor OF a shop which ex-
tends one and one half-feet into the street.
They can lean ever and shake hands with
merchants on the opposite side of the
street. The groups o. workers are almos;
d.