davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-11-24

throat is cut out in three slight indenta-
tons, arranged to appear to be
mere ScalloDs in the guipure empiecement.
The main part of the gown is of white
mousseine de sole, embroidered In flower
patterns with narrow white ribbon and
pearls. These flowers embroider the plated
bodice, which falls from under a broad
band of lace encircling the bust. The skirt
is cut out in points over an understand OF
upper part being of very fine lace, an
other part of the heavy guipure, similar to
that around the upper part of the waist,
and The lower part a very full undersleeve
of mousseline, attached to bands Of en-
broidery.
Plated white mousseine is the founda-
ton fabric of reception dress that seems
to be of white guipure, cleaning with in
crustations of gold The gown is of the
accepted princess style, the lace falling in
apron shape down the front to give side
Still another of her gowns is extremely de-
collete, the sleeves being nothing but
strands of pearls. The short empire waist
is of lace. the remainder of the costume be-
ing of liberty satin, appliQued with lace
flowers embroidered in gold
Picturesque and girlish is a robe of pale
rose mOusseline de sole with draped bodice.
Roses knotted among the folds, and a
skirt is fitted snugly over the hips, but
with decided fulness below. The front
forms wide box plaits. Bands of bias
velour trim the lower part of the skirt.
GIorfes of the Cloak.
The glory of the cloaks of the winter is
dazzling. They are even more splendid
than the gowns, %nd those are magnificent
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-11-24

touues being covered with horizontal APP
plications of the plaits. Hat brims droop
well over the face and in the back nave a
decided upward tilt. The side undeTbrim
trimming is noticeable and is almost with
out exception Of the same material as the
draped trimming of the hat
Green is Coming Back.
Costumers promise vogue for green
which may even be carried on into the
spring A charming toilet of myrtle green
biege has just been designed by Doucet. 1t
displays the short cuff bolero, closed In
front and supplied with short, pointed
collar, faced with guipure and having deep
cuffs of the lace on the rather full sleeves.
The girdle is of soft cream silk embroidered
with gold and having little tabs falling
down at the sides. The very full under
sleeves are of cream gauZe with a shot de-
sign of gold showing its surface.
Lovely Costumes.
Nine Jane Hading. in her new production
at the Athenee, is treating Paris to some
lovely costumes. In the first act Nine.
Hading wears superb toilette de soiree."
The sleeves come to the wrist, and the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-11-24

From the Millinery Trade Review.
Bonnets are still far from numerous, in
comparison with hats, in collections of mil
linery. although with church weddings more
frequent, home entertainments in prospect,
and the dress for places Of evening amuse-
ment to be considered, there is an increas-
ing call for them in fashionable millinery
parlors. They have been relegated how
ever exclusively to matrons, 1t may be said.
What is known as 1.-The bonnet among the
younger of the fashionable matrons, to be
worn with the hair dressed in the pompa-
dress, devised to fit on the head behind the
roll Of the front hair, and not to cover the
back Of the head. A perked-up bow Of tall
wired loops of satin ribbon, about three
of aigrette tied in, or a monture. perhaps,
Of several small ostrich tips and wfsp Of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-11-24

plique of gray chenille outlining a lila
cious leaf. The wide sleeves, showing the
cloth undersleeves, embroidered with che
nile, have turned-back cuffs, decorated
with chenille. The deep collar is faced
with chinchilla, while the muff shows an
odd decoration of velvet ribbons and steel
buckles.
At the same time l sketched an evening
pelisse of the empire style. 1t was of white
broche, with flower pattern in palest blue,
mauve and green. From the middle of the
back to the bottom of the skirt was inset
plating Of palest green chiffon laid over
white satin. Down each side OF the plait-
ing was a line of black chantilly applique.
The high collar was of shirred chiffon, sur
mounted by chinchilla and encircled by a
drapery of white lace appliqued with a few
pieces of black chantily. The sleeves,
which were elaborate in structure, were
trimmed with chinchilla and lace. The
lower part of the coat, in the front and az
the sides, was cut in deep, chnchilla-
trimmed points, opening over a plating of
chiffon.
The other coat was of black velours
trimmed with ermine. supposed to be the
smartest fur of the winter
CATHERINE TALBOT.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-11-24

enough. The long coats. with trimming
upon trimming, cost small fortune, and
even the short coats are not models of
sweet simplicity either in appearance Or
price. For instance, note the coat in the
photograph, a three-quarter affair. 1t be-
longs to a very chic and very charming
French actress and she wears the rather
difficult garment with grace which. fear
no Anglo-Saxon woman could initiate
Straight and rather scant in front, the coat
shown a band of open-work embroidery
that extends in deeper line around the
border Of the skirt. The fronts are soft
ened by very full bands Of chiffon ruching,
while the lower part Of the coat boasts
plated f1ounces of chiffon, over which fall
the strands of a ribbon fringe. The sleeves
are ornamented with a band of the en-
broidery extending up and down. while a
deep f1ounce of the plated chiffon falls
over the fingers. The collar is an elaborate
affair of plated chiffon and lace.
OF Hearthstone Gray.
Another elaborate coat, not reaching quite
to the hem of the skirt, yet longer than
the three-quarter, was sketched at one of
the designers. 1t is of hearthstone gray
CLOTH ornamented with a very artistic APP
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-11-24
STYLES IN BIRD PLUMAGE.
New Things to BE Worn on Winter
Millinery.
From the Millinery TraC

From the Millinery Trade Review.
Miliners are making considerable use OF
plumage mounted on net; the small feath-
ers are glued on the tissue so as to form
smooth surface the net being cut into
shapes suited to the purpose for which 1t
is intended, to line or cover brims, and to
make bows, ears" etc, the net being al
most without stiffening. This feathered
tissue may not only be used fiat, but
draped, and the piece designed to cover or
line a brim is sometimes much wider than
that of the shape, the extra width being
draped about the edge. Bands are also
Joined so as to make a rope-Shaped piece,
which is afterward knotted This makes
very effective trimming for a felt hat.
Wild duck feathers are much in request
for the purpose, but all sorts of plumage
is treated in this way. At the first houses
l find an inclination to prefer neutral tint
ed plumage-grays, drabs and dull browns.
very pretty hat, consisting of small
shape covered with drab plumage, is trim
med with a plume in the form of an anna
ION, made of the wing feathers of the wild
duck; this is placed on the brim and sweeps
from the front to the back. About the
base OF the crown is fold OF turquoise
blue velvet, the extremity of which is
brought forward and finishes in loop and
end fastened to the edge of the brim on
the stump of the feather by loop of
bluish-green plumage.
bul pieast plumaSe Is not tHe oiiiy hillu
used to glue on net and net shapes;
larger feathers are used, and also the ex-
tremities of wings Here is hat covered
outside with the white breast feathers of
the sea gull, whereas underneath some Of
the gray wing feathers are introduced
Inc nat Is turned up at the back against
crown, the longer feathers underneath fol-
lowing the curves Of the brim. Outside are
the heads and bodies of two birds nesting
one on each side of the crown. Rather
wide black velvet ribbon, twisted, forms a
torsade about the crown, and there is a
large bow with two loops on each side at
the back apparently fastening at the brim
to the crown.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-11-24

L rOln tne Millinery trade REVIEW
Angora felts, fulfilling a prophecy made
here three months ago, are beginning to
claim general attention. They princi
pally seen in different shades of light and
dark brown, including khaki, and in iron
and steel grays. They are extremely sup
pie and may be converted into almost any
shape the mlliner pleases, whether pro-
vided in plateauX or with a straight, soft
blocked crown. One of the latter, of a
khaki tint is made up into a very dressy
hat. The brim, which is fiat, shelves slight
ly down, save on the left side. where it
rests on a little putting of bronze-brown
velvet, is lined with folds of biscut-colored
liberty, and the crown is encircled by a
band of bronze velvet. passing through a
handsome steel buckle of oblong form.
On the left side of the buckle is fastened
an amazon plume, shaded from biscuit to
dark brown through khaki. The feather
curls over the side of the brm, its tip rest
ing on the hair at the back. Another An
CORA felt is lined with sheet of gray
plumage, rather lighter than the felt, the
edge of the brim being wired and drawn up
so as to roll slightly. This is trimmed
with a long bow of plumage, gummed on
net, and very handsome cCuteau elegant
iy marked in different shades of gray and
white: the latter is fastened in front Of
the crown and sweeps round to the back,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-11-24

TOLD
HINTS

A Thanksgiving picnic is a revelation to
the transplanted individual who iinds him
self spending his first Thanksgiving in the
southeast.
While in the homeland back east" snow
flakes fly, sleigh bells Jingle, the clouds
hang low and overcoats and furs are in the
asCendancy, in the pleasant valleys of the
Sun kissed territory" eternal summer
reigns, and Thanksgiving morning dawns as
fresh and balmy an Easter May. Dressed
in summer garb-for here the shirt waist
never goes into eclipse-the merry caval-
cades are early astir; big ranch wagons,
sturdy burros, patient mules or prancing
bronchos, Kentucky thoroughbreds or In
dian ponies, serving means of transpor-
tation to the foot of some purpling, rugged
butte, where the feast is to be spread. And
such feast! Turkey, of course, the
piece de resistance. for these transplanted
ones are loyal to tradition; then roast pig
tender stockings, such as tine historic cnes
over which Bo-bo smacked appreciative
lips; quail galore. taken from their native
heath in the summit Of perfection plump
brown, juicy, sweet; wild duck-equal in
flavor to its cousin german of the Chesa-
peake: dove plea morsel for the gods
watermelons, fresh from the vines; the
early summer vegetables, row in their
prime; oranges Just from the groves
golden spheres of fragrant sweetness: pome-
granates. ripe black olives; pinoche-a de-
lectable Mexican CONNECTION, made Of the
juice of the cactus. and generous cups of
fragrant Mocha. golden crowned with su-
perb alfalfa cream.
Then. at the last, the loving cup. And as
1t goes its rounds. hearts swell with good
fellowship and the tender, aching throb for
absent loved ones, while the farewell chorus
rings out:
For auld lang syne, my dear,
For auld lang syne,
Wen drink a cup In memory here
For the days Of aud lang syne.
Unlike Christmas, when dividing inter-
ests touch the heart, Thanksgiving day is
dedicated primarily to home. Now, as at
no other Of our few pleasure days, the
heart longs for the home associations the
home atmosphere. the home people, the
home cooking. The great dinner, sign and
symbol of the harvest festival, Instituted
by our pilgrim forefathers but made Dos
sible by our pilgrim mothers Is not per-
| feet feast II made from modern dishes and
served after the fashion of any country
| but our own. 1t Is feast in whose honor
| the old family china and silver, even the
| curious old pewter, and always the old
| family dishes should be brought forth.
| Pretty. tiny little kickshaws'' with foreign
| names and foreign 1avors have no place
! here, where the turkey rules the roast"
| supplemented by the good old dishes that
| mother and grandmother before her used to
| make. In how many desolate mining camps
and frontier towns. on isolated ranches and
spreading cattle ranges, among the boys In
| khaki and the sailor boys In blue wing
guard our new possessions aneng the H.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-11-24

and one of rich sweet milk. Add the juice
of lemon and two teaspoonfuls lemon ex-
tract. Line deep baking dish with good
paste, pour in the pudding. then slice into
it five large ripe bananas. Bake in quick
oven, cover with meringue and serve with
either wine sauce or Russian sauce, which
is made thus: Cream well half a cup of
butter, add cup of sugar, the juice and
grated yellow peel of a lemon and small
cup of very strong tea, boiling hot. Set
over boiling water and stir hard for five
minutes, then put in two tablespoonfuls of
rum and stir two minutes longer. The
pudding is rich enough for many palates
without sauce of any sort.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-11-24

aigrette tied in, constitute effectively the
headwear of the high toilet with some young
married ladies; or something else equally
simple is devised by nay lady's milliner.
The bonnets now more generally shown,
or latest brought out, are VariouSly after
the ideas of the little French capOte, which
invariably has a rounded crown. and the
Dutch cap, which is wider across the head
and is sometimes without definite crown.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-11-24

If you are looking for a wedding present.
why not buy one of the latest novelties in
tableware-a silver handled poultry scis-
sors, with which the wings of game or
poultry can be cut of. This is q welcome
addition to a carver's set, and will prove a
very acceptable gift for housekeeper.
This novelty is particularly useful in carv-
ducks
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-11-24
Stained Knives.

To clean knives that have fruit or vine
gar stains on them, rub them. after wash
ing, with a freshly cut raw potato. Dry
and polish on a knife board in the ordinary
way. Lemon juice and whiting, mixed to
soft paste and well rubbed in will remove
stains from ivory or bone handles. Rinse
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-11-24
Light Felt Hats Popular.

From the Millinery Trade Review.
Felt assumes every color. Quite recently a
taste has developed for pale colored,
sky blue and mauve of different shades
This does not mean, however, that there is
any decrease in the demand for chalky
white and pale beige, and for the many
shades of light, medium and dark browns.
The deeper positive tones most in vogue
for felts are "Coquelicat' and "Paurpre,"
and dark, dull green, which does not fig
ure on the color card of this season, and
which may be described a much darker
shade of the two light greens sampled I'M
der the names of exposition" and "univer-
selle." Pale-blue and pink feits sake
charming dressy hats for young girls.
Some of these of the soft form. ess shape
intended to be worn off the face are very
simply trimmed: as for instance, with a
breadth Of liberty silk to match, twisted
round the crown and then passing over the
brim in front and fastened to a narrow cor
onet of ribbon by small bunch of flowers.
The mauve hats have somewhat less
youthful appearance. Here is one or a
Parma tint: the brim is caught back by
torsade of miroir velvet to match, that also
encircles the crown, and the hat rests ON
coronet in which are fastened two haH-open
roses of Bordeaux tint, with few brown
leaves. About the edge of the brim, the
head resting on the velvet torsade, is a
marten skin.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1900-11-24

and one end of the bow, which is fixed d.
agonally, rises above the couteau, whereas
the other rests on the right side of the
brim.
Graham guardian., 1900-02-09
Meteor. prefer MORNING.

An interesting and significant fact is
that the average hourly number of me-
teors is only half as great in the even
ing as in the morning and in the even
ing their velocity is lower. The reason
is that at sunset we have before us the
point in the heavens from which we are
moving in our orbital journey around
the sun, while the morning we face the
point toward which we are advancing;
in the evening we are in the rear Of the
earth, at sunrise in front. This in
crease IN the numbers and speed of the
morning meteors is just what ought TO
happen il they are bodies moving indis-
criminately in all directions under the
suns attraction, and with the velocity
(about &c miles a second) which body
would acquire in falling toward the sun
from distance very great as compared
with the size Of our planetary orbits
Prof. c. A. Young, in Lippincott.
Graham guardian., 1900-02-09
STOLE In HER SLEEP.
Mortifying Experience Of a Girl at
House Party.
An Intense Passion for Jewels Work.
ed Upon Her while AsIssp
and She Committed
the Theft.

II gives one weird feeling to be told
Of words said and acts committed when
one is unconscious of external condi-
tions. II is for this reason that walking
OF talking in ones sleep is so terrify-
ing A young woman who for years
was in the habit of walking in her sleep
said that she felt as IL she were pos
s.ssed of some uncauny power which
without her volition might at any time
caase her TO do something dreadful.
Unfortunately have a passion for
Gne stones" she said, "and that, com
bined with my somnambulism, brought
me once into most uncomfortable po-
sf,ion. was invited TO go with house
party to large country place on the
Hudson. Knowing my infrmity, had
never heretofore dared to accept such
Invitations, but as had not had any
recurrence Of my trouble for over q
year | hoped ! wns rid of it forever,
and, urged by my family, finally ac-
cepted. For the first two nights /
probably remained quietly in my room,
but on the third strange thing hap
pened. At dinner that evening Miss
B., girl from San Francisco, wore q
peculiar jewel. 1t was u large pearl
hanging from an equally large ruby,
which was suspended from diamond,
which In its turn quiyered from an en-
craid brooch. 1 admired the effect of
The stones resting on the white lace OF
her gown and she unfastened the pin
aud handed me the valuable ornament
Ia look at. II was really pleasure to
lie 10 hold the beautiful gems and L re-
Intnber telling her as | returned then,
Graham guardian., 1900-02-09
to her that it was actually a physical
pleasure to handle them.

to her that it was actually physical
pleasure to handle them.
''The next morning ! walked feeling
that something had happened and i'm.
mediately became possessed with the
idea that / had walked in my sleep, al.
though l saw no evidence that had
done so. j felt most uncomfortable,
however, and my feeling of vague ap.
prehension was not lessened when ]
went downstairs and found that during
! the night Miss b. had been robbed OF
her jewel, which she had carelessly left
sticking in the pin cushion.
"As it happened no one had come
down except Miss b. and our hostess,
and the latter seemed curiously indis-
posed to make disturbance by an
nouncing the loss publicly and begged
us not to mention the fact to the rest
of the guests. This Miss b. readily
promised, as she realized what dis
agreeable finale ii would be to the par
ty, but she insisted upon sending at
once for detective and she quilted the
room to wire her husband, who was in
town.
"While Miss b. was telling of her loss
/ had the most curious feeling of being
in some way connected with the affair,
and as soon as we were alone l told her
of my somnambulism and strange inn
preston. Whereupon she in her turn
told how in the middle of the night
she had been startled by noise like the
shutting OF her door, and, being of a
nervous disposition, she had sprung
from her bed, opened il and looked into
the dimly lighted hall and was aston
ished to see that my door, which was op-
posite, was open.
"When she missed her pin in the
morning she concluded not to speak
Of the incident, as she really attached
no Importance to the coincidence, but
now we both regarded the occurrence
as significant and together we hastily
returned to my room There, careless
ly laid on a chair near my bed, was the
missing jewel, which had escaped my
notice while / was dressing. The dis
covery was great shock to me--so
great one that II probably effected
my recovery, for / have never, to my
knowledge, walked in my sleep since"
IN. Y. Tribune.
Graham guardian., 1900-02-09

Ten sets of extra quatyteam harnessfhn7 rn
worth easily today to lay down S45.ooN/f .1j|
Farmers, don't let this chance slip.
Graham guardian., 1900-02-09
1T nRVo TO CONSULT
Ill HIO THE BEST!
DR. HILL, The Kansas City Specialist,

Will you honest scientific opinion of free of charge
Why throw worthless electrical appliances and
patent medicines and consult this learned and eminent hycan Al
years after graduating the leading colleges
himself the largest hospitals of the
East where he might still pursue the study his profession He
much time Baltimore New York. he compet
ed his medical educao only reasonable suppose that he
better fitted undertake the of than
practitioner 1t be conceded that who directs his whole
time thought curing few diseases will become proficient
healing them than the who undertakes all the diseases
peculiar others have failed in that
his treatment which embraces the very best methods vogue
should fail to effect Dr. Hill
O cure in following disease
Graham guardian., 1900-02-09
Biacksmlthing.

L. A. Godfrey is located in the
Kirkland blacksmith shop, Stafford,
aud does general blaoksmithing.
Special attention is given to pillow
work and horse shoeirg. 37tf
Graham guardian., 1900-02-09
urANrEp-sEyERAL eRIenr

w HONEST persons 20 reptesenl us os
Managers in this and close by counties Salary
5000 year and expenses, Straight, bona. iide,
no more, no less salary Positively perman
eiit. Our references, any bank in any town,
II Is mainly Office work conducted at home
Reference. Enclose sei.addresSed stamped
envelop. The poaISIoN CONrASY, rept 3
Chicago. 29-2G.w.
Graham guardian., 1900-02-09
WAGONS AND BUGGIEs at the
Arizona Copper Smelling Co If

Look out for the bargain count.
or at Layton, Alfred l. Cos. 46tf
Graham guardian., 1900-02-09
CORRESPONDENCE.

Almost all be successfully by
Write full and complete history plainly giving
All such letters held If durable
the Doctor will take for will be restored to
health.
Office Hours---9 a. M to B 70. M.
Address, d. READ HILL, NJ d.
Shuken Building Io2I Grand Ave..
KANSAS CITY MO.
Graham guardian., 1900-02-09
SYPHILITIC BLOOD POISON.

Not the venea diseases much to be dreaded
count of ghu effects the SYSTEM and
bic
face body throat falling the hair and all the
attending this terrible disease speedily permanently
If have this loathomc will yourself
the treatment of DR. HILL will cleanse purify and
system to perfect health in from Is to 40 days.
DEBILITY The The % foies of youth
and like sexual diseases cured Try his
ment before too late II is something original perfectly saf
losses quickly checked You will the effects of this grand
days and in short Will feel like another
RHEJMATISMIt l. is foolish to suffer with this painful
&SAAA ~ As&& ID disease when relief absolutely
matter how bad Lumbago,
Sciatica and chronic joint affections quickly cured After
study this subject the doctor has brought his we'll
nigh perfection You will having put yourself under
his care, if you afflicted with Rhumasm
VhRIC0nEE The injurious effects this disease we'll
Under the Doctors treatment the enlarged veins
restored their natural and the regans its
normal condition
STRGTRE Cured home without of knife deen
oiiuoioA'h tion from business
C0N0RRHh This disease with gee and all unnatural
oVA'o charges, will be in scientific manner,
and cured in from to 10 days.