Evening star., 1900-03-31
IN A PARTISAN PENSION
WHAT AWAITS PATRONS OF A
FRENCH BOARDING HOUSE.
Some Curious Features of the Daily
Routfne-What n Novice Has
to Guard Against.
From the New York Times.

PRESUMABLY a SOOu many AueTlCdu idoieS
expect to go to Paris next summer. and as
they are likely to stay some time. and as
the hotels are sure to be crowded. they will
undoubtedly seek accommodations in pri-
vate boarding house. What they will find
there is pretty well described by lady
correspondent, writing from Paris under
date of the 9th instant:
We had read of the lurid pensions of the
Latin Quarter and its environs, of the wild
eyed artist and the struggling poet, of the
dirt and the microbes in highest state of
development and activity, and trembled.
We thought we could exist without the
first. and had religious scruples against the
second. Fate, in the shape of an inhabitant
of long standing, directed us to our present
quarters. Our pension is small; We are the
star boarders, danked by young French
girl finishing her education, and a small
boy who comes for daily lessons and leav-
ems the lump of femininity at dejeuner.
The house is kept by two maiden ladies
under forty, erstwhile governesses in titled
English families.
How the table manners of the elder es-
capped contamination during a prolonged
stay in one of Englands most stately coun-
try houses has always puzzled us, but they
remain uncorrupted undefled. To see her
pursue the elusive gravy on her plate with
a mop of bread is a revelation in dexterity
and thoroughness, to hear her take soup a
nightly surprise. To spear piece of bread
with fork from dish half way across the
able is a. mere bagatelle Cor this accom-
plished performer. but in the dissection of
a chicken she is at her best. Here draw
the veil.
One by one some of the curious features
of the daily routine impressed themselves
upon us. The day begins with light break
fast at 8. l say light advisedly, for each
person is supplied with tea or coffee, one
rcll and butter to match. In our early days
We entertained wild ideas of ringing for an
other roll or more butter; now that we are
the servile slaves of existing conditions, we
trembe when we think of the possible re-
suits. For it is 1.-The custom of the coun-
try" and beyond this no man has ever
penetrated.
At II o'clock dejeuner you are gen.
sion-one cooked over. the other fresh.
The first course may be eggs, but that de-
pends on what was left from dinner the
night before. Anyway, you start fair with
a clean plate, knife, fork-everyt thing, in
short, that is considered essential for
simple meal You eat your eggs, cooked
in a dozen appetizlng ways. or croquettes
the like of which are never found outside
OF France, or meat disguised in many man
ners, accompanied by bread and red wine,
of course. When you have sardines. or
radishes, or anchovies. you are given but
ter; 1t is handed to you with an air, and
If your first course happens to be infant
radishes and butter, you must look just as
repleted as though you had finished flaky
ham, cheese, or tomato omelette or a GRO
quette.
Here, if you are a novice, you will make
your first slip. When your plate is taken
away you will not have retained your fork
1t will be returned to you. If there are
several novices present. and some uncer-
tainty about the identity of each fork, 1T
will make no differences much the worse
for YOU that's all. Now comes the piece
de resistance" which is always meat or
liver that gives you quite new idea of the
possibilities OF that dish. The butter is al
ways removed before this course Once
one Of our party refused the meat, and then
the butter was brought back to tempt her
appetite. Again your plate is snatched
away, and again you must capture your
fork and knife. Then, with an air only
second in importance to that which accom-
panes the butter, potatoes are brought on
baked potatoes-and here the butter must
be hustled forth again-fried potatoes, pota-
tees with cheese, all forms of potatoes
but seldom anything else
NOW you may breathe again and let your
knife and fork depart in peace, for next
come cheese and nuts or honey and nuts,
and you start in clean all around. Then
you may bow to every individual present,
say Good morning." and withdraw
seven CLOCK sees you once more
gathered around the festive board. or
by high fruit dish filled with
artificial moss, deckcd by property apples
and oranges, and topped with some sprays
or green from the garden, and paper flow
ers. The room is dimly lighted by hang
ing lamp. with a huge green globe much
brass festooning, and dozen candles as
outriders. The candles are never lighted.
GU start in with soup, either of cabbage.
split peas, dried beans. or lentils in which
case 1t is porridge. a bouillon of start
ling clearness with small pieces of bread
Heating in it. 1t really tastes better than
1t looks. After the soup you eat your al
ways delicious chicken, your only fair roast,
or your frankly poor boiled meat change
your plate, keep your fork and knife. and
eat vegetable. Then come dessert and
coffee q don't even mention butter in this
connection; it would be too yulgar-and
eXtravaganO, more salaams, and you de-
part.