New-York tribune., 1900-07-28
FASHIONS OF THE HOUR.
NOVELTIES THAT LEND ADDED CHARM
TO MIDSEASON COSTUMES.

Accordion pleating so much in vogue and likely
70 be for two, is literally centuries old
Statues carved in the reign of Egyptian kings VINO
ruled four thousand years before the Christian Era
show skirts of robes pleated in this fashion But
just what the process was is unknown to-day In
fact accordion pleatng has been used more or
less in modern times ever since the days OF queen
Elizabeth It was not then popular dress trim
ming, however for the operation of making it was
too tedious and expensive, as each pleat was laid
and roned separately. About 1850 this plea ting be-
gan TO be largely used. However there is sat
isfactory process in at present and nothing
lends itself more attractively to fluffy gowns than
accordion pleating, which is even more partlcu-
larly adaptable 10 the charms of neckwear.
1t would seem that colored linen frocks are the
mania Of the moment, and in their newest form,
as seen on the esplanade of a fashionable resort
are red-that dull. rich red artistic and becom-
ing The trimming is stitched black taffeta. with
a touch Of coarse cream Euipure on the bodice a
white linen boero costume has a sash Of chine
ribbon Of white patterned by pale green and
nauve and black. Another linen which attracted
attention this summer of pale yellow, stitched
with black or the bolero and skirt, and completed
with an underbodice Of embroidered batiste belted
In by white chine sash fowered with pink and
pale green foliage, and showing a black satin bor-
der
Yachting has of late years become one Of the
favoT1te pastirnes of the French women. and they
have adopted for it a sort Of semi-navaI costume,
which is truly fetching The skirt Of this costume
is invariably plain and round a favorite garniture
- a proad band surrounding the hem. of stamped
me latter case the material the skirt itself is
stamped out, and the colored band only forms the
n,nlhg- The seams Of the cores are frequently
piped in color.
TYPES OF THE BLOUSE.
The bodice IS either of the blouse type simply
hxed by a leather gtrdle at the waist. of the
jacket order over sailor shirt showing horizontal
stripes Of color The colored piping Of the skirt is
generally repeated in the seams OF the jacket The
headwear is white cap similar in form to that of
IN reserve second costume of navy serge. trimmed
WIN Whlte ora1d- but varying little in point Of
make from that just described
IN English yachting costumes there is notable
taste for red and Of the smartest gowns on
this order is made Of light red serge en- nbeIshed
with lines OF stitching. The short bOerO is laid in
boX pleats. which stitched on the edges. and
over the broad square sailor collar laid
c!orn strapped with black tdffeta which also makes
Lhs ,oToad, Craped Elrdle. a sailor knot Of white
hoIQs the jacket together below the collar
4here is already prediction that sleeves are to
be larger. While they are NOT large there is
rOllceaDle absence Of the skin tight tendency even
IN the recently completed costumes. and from the
elooW 70 the shoulder the inclination is for easy
grace while from the elbow the wrist the
tendency is toward fiufnnAss. There is q ruror
that the mutton leg Is 70 lead in popularity.
AS guide 10 future modes the present trend of
Iashlon always mas some bearing. And the
Corday, the POmpadOur jaTdiniera STYLES. show
ing many hOWered fabrics, with round full skirts
ana a variety Of waist forms. the gowns of the
moment IN Paris these airy costumes of mUsIins
ana nu!lS are the indices Of next winters ball
gowns. Ihey all show q marked tendency toward
low neckS. and then there are berthas which fold
closely over the shoulders. giving delicious fresh
appearance 70 these dainty creations.