The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1899-12-21

NEV
of Spain, or even of Cuba and Mexico
on our side OF the world Here the
poor, beWildered bull has less chance fol-
| himself than elsewhere, his horns being
bunted and covered, but he is seldom
killed or seriously wounded Though
| the American spectator longs to see tbs
professional tormentors of defenceless
animals receive the punishment they
! deserve, his interest centers chiefly in
the stirring music, the excited populace
| filling the enormous amphitheatrica
| galleries of the arena, and the beauti-
full gay-colored costumes Of the bandit
leros and picahores
Besides thGAparks aforementioned
the World-renowned Botanical Garden
and the splendid terraces of the Espla-
made da Louis Philippe, there are five
smaller public gardens, all much fire.
quented by well-dressed crowds in the
evenings. The dark little shops of Lis
bon, with their scanty display Of poor
goods, are not worth a glance-except-
ing always the goldsmith's shops, with
cases, fan-sticks, ETC., in filagree work,
the curio-shops where rare articles may
occasionally be found among world
of trash, and the pawnshops, filled to
overlooking with the heirlooms of an
impoverished nobility The markets
are more interesting, with their many
varieties Of fish and fruits, golden or
anges and luscious grapes, of which
you may buy more than you can carry
for mil reis to the value of an Ameri-
can nickel, country produce, fat beef
and mutton from the Douro valley, and
especially the always picturesque peas
antry in their characteristic costumes.
The hotels of Lisbon are poor as poor
est; but so beautifully hospitable are
the people that the stranger with let
ter of introduction, or with shadow of
claim upon anybody, sure of most
gracious entertainment in private
houses. The large English colony lives
i'll the elevated district known as Bue-
nos Ayres, while Portuguese aristOcra-
cy are mostly found in the vicinity of
the Ajudea palace, the fashionable SUI
burbs of Alcantara and Cascaes, and
along the sunny hillsides overlooking
'Tagus bay. OF course the capital is the
headquarters of the royal army, and
barracks for the troops and municipal
guards are scattered all over the city
The under-sizedy hungry-looking sol
diers remind one of Cuba in wartime
only these are more gorgeously uni
formed, if not better fed, than We're the
Spanish army in the west The chief
naval and military arsenals of the
kingdom are also here; and attached to
the former are naval school, not un-
like our Annapolis and photographed
office. and a very creditable museum of
colonial products,
Among many historic landmarks
which the visitor in Lisbon must not
omit is the ancient convent church dos
which contains the mag
nificent marble tombS of Camoens, Vas
co da CANA and the great Portuguese
Alexandra Hercuano. Equal
Iy important is the old convent of ST.
Vincent, high up on a hill overlooking
the far-stretching shores of the Tagus
which has been transformed into
Pantheon of royal tombs. Then there
$ the Quintade Monserrate, where the
poet Byron used to live, which Is now
he winter home of Lady Cooke. Wis.,
countess de Montserrat, of London.
People on our side of the Atlantic will
'emember the lady as Tennie Claf1lin,
of New York, sister of Victo-
ia Woodruff, both famous apostles of
emale suffrage.
One never wearies of the hilltop
Jews above Lisbon-the mighty river
unning through a semi-tropic para
lise; the stately and historic monu-
nents Of antiquity and endless colonies
# palaces, villas and luxuriant gar |
lens. Into the latest royal palace, with |
ts pinnacles, domes and terraces, was
a fifteenth century con-
ent, which for two hundred years stood |
lone In Pima mountain. The Palacio
Real, another royal residence, was built |
~ Ferdinand of Coburg upon the ruins
f the ancient Castillo dos Mouros
Castle of the Dead" The royal Pal
ce Of Cintra, erected by John l., In the
ourteenth century, was built upon the
uins of a Moorish castle, by Mozarabic
in semi-Moorish style. But
mong all the remarkable specimens of
ancient and modern, in
he Portuguese capital, none is a really
reater work than the acqueduct, which
rings water to the city from Bellas VII
age, twelve miles away 1t is partly
onducted under ground, but in the vi
nifty of Lisbon crosses a deep valley, |
'hich Is Spawned for nearly three thou !.
and feet by a bridge of thirty arches.
lie loftest Of which is two hundred
nd forty feet high and one hundred
nd ten feet wide. In the Praca das
moeciras is large reservoir for sup
lying the many fountains Of the city
18th water.
FANNIE B. WARD.
NE OF MARCHAND'S DISCOVER