Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-05-27
BECOMING PRINCESS DRESSES.
Their Effectiveness is Much Enhance
ed by Tasteful Embroidery.

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From the Boston Herald.
One of the simplest and most becoming
of princess dresses is the one which reaches
up only to the bust, leaving an under bodice
to form guimpe and sleeves, there being
even no shoulder straps. In pale blue
cashmere this is fetching, the top of the
princess cut into shallow waves, outlined
with white muslin ruches and incrusted
with ecru guipure. Ruchings also trim the
flowing hem, while the guimpe and sleeves
are of tucked white dimity and ecru lace
insertions alternating with ruches of white
muslin. OF course fiower-trimmed straw
is worn with this pretty frock.
The most successful blouse or top being
worn on the Riviera is the plain stretched
one of White satin, butt0uing down the
back and trimmed with beautiful embroid-
cries done in cOlored silk One such has
roses and their foliage massed one
shoulder in front. from which point the
garland trails down and across the bodice
to the belt of jewels. A similar trail deco
rates the back of the bodice and the tops
OF the sleeves. The trails on the front,
back and sleeves are entirely of embroid-
cry but the bunch of blossoms on the
shoulder is partly of embroidered leaves
and vines, partly of petals of velvet and
satin in entire relief which futter daintily
blending of entire relief, low relief and
fatty embroidered petals and leaves most
uellCdJely UOnG-a clever combination of ar
tficial and embroidered flowers.
The art of embroidery is one that is being
made the most of in these days by the
best gownmakers. Hardly a gown but that
has bit of beautiful embroidery on it
somewhere, if only the ends of a cravat.
Whereas lapels, cuffs, little waistcoats.
revers. narrow bands and large. bold panels
are used with wonderful effect.
Rejane, in Paris, has been wearing some
beautiful stage gowns which are marvels
of embroidery. A princess polonaise of
white silk muslin is most cleverly fash
Toned over an underdress of white guipure
the sleeves unlined ones of guipure to the
thumbs, the decolletage draped with deli
cate light mauve silk muslin knotted on
the bust. The white muslin poonaise is
fairly covered with white silk embroid-
cry in graceful, delicate trails and vines
breaking occasionally into bouquets all over
the robe but about the edges forming large
arabesques, the muslin edge cut to follow
these curving outlines and piped with white
satin. The muslin is laid over palest
mauve satin is the white guipure which
forms the petticoat and front of the gown,
the guipure starting only from the edges
of the muslin, so that the beautiful floral
pattern is plainly revealed against the
mauVe satin.
Deliciously simple my correspondent calls
a second gown in rose color, but its descrip-
ton certainly sounds most ornate, what
ever its effect may be in the ensemble. The
bodice is a sort of bebe of plated rose
crepe de chine. ecru guipure motifs forming
choker. pointed plastron and little flat
jockeys, or rather tight shoulder cans and
a broad Vandyke of guipure encircles the
bodice about the bust. the bella of soft pink
liberty satin, into which some white roses
are thrust. The skirt is of rose-colored
silk muslin over rose crepe de chine, but
Is trimmed down one side and all about the
hem with bold painted sprays of blue hor-
tensias and green foliage. the painting very
dehcately, and yet boldly, done to give
truly decorative effect in faint coors.
Tail. stiff stalks of white lilies and ten
der green leaves are embroidered about the
lower part of princess robe of pale blue
crepe de chine which Rejane wears in the
last act. the lilies also decorating the train,
the whole skirt above sprnkled with white
chenille polka dots. The princess fastens
behind with crystal buttons. is sleeveless
and squarey decollete, the shoulder straps
of jewels only. About the decolletage Is
draped polka dotted scarf of white tulle
frnged with jewels, this draped up on one
side with a bunch of lilies. The shawl
shaped wrap worn over it is of deep white
lace founces, with light blue chiffon and
lace hood and lining of ermine.
a hand embroidery done in woo!s to sim
ulate a cashmere pattern is in the shape of
palm leaves and arabesQues, and is stun
ningly appiiqued about the edge of red
ingote tunic of soft light blue cashmere,
the embroidery in soft shades of blue rose
straw and green. The edge of the tunic is
cut in arabesques to follow the outlines of
the embroidered motifs, which are placed
some distance from the edge the edge
piped with blue velvet. OF blue satin is the
petticOat untrimmed.
These embrolderies do not seem to add
so much to the cost of the gown as one
would suppose. although, of course they
are used only on expensive robes. From
their elaborateness they necessarily take
away the need for other and equally expen-
sive trimmings. The simplest of gowns can
have a bit of embroidery without calling
for frghtful expense, if lace and passe-
menterie are displaced by it. Many young
women with a fondness for fancy work of
some kind are doing odd bits of satin for
Jokes lapels, sometimes with scattered
bouquets or single rosebuds or marguerites:
sometimes with bow knots