Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1899-12-21
PORTALS new YORK LETTER.

New York, Dec. i1.-My Dear
Phyllis. The altruistic feeling of
Christmas fills every nook and crevice
and the streets are delight these
days. The shop windows look so bright,
the florists so gay, the cafes are so full
of life, that one feels like doing
thousand things at once. No, l am
not going to talk about Christmas
until next week. There is plenty of
time, my dear, and really it is more
fun to rush at the last minute than to
plan so far ahead.
l am noticing gowns at present, and
arm glad to see that the tailor made
girl will be as much in evidence as
ever. The mere I see of the tailor
made girl the more convinced / am
that the tailor-made girl is born and
not made. Every woman, from the one
who arrives at the custom house with
her 16 trunks, to the one who counts
her gowns on two fingers, should pos
sess one tabernacle gown, and once
owner Of well-built gown land,
apropos, let me tell you that Carrie
Gays, and Carrie always knows the
swngger thing-that when you are
speaking of cloth gown, it is always
built and not poadsl, you will never
regret it and will never, like Flora
McFlimsy, say you have nothing to
wear. A woman can wear a badly
made house gown because she can hide
the defects with q fall of lace and a
bunch OF ribbon here and there; but
the tailor made gown must be correct.
Expensive? Yes, the charge at first for
well-built gown of this sort seems
exorbitant, but in the long run it pays.
The human form divine can be made
presentable by a tailor who knows. If
the figure be bad, the tailor can raise
shoulder, pad hip, fill out hollow,
make smooth back and, in fact,
make figure. One of his secrets is to
fit we'll and Fever to make the gown
tight lie understands the value of
seams and curves and the use of goose
and block
Carrie and went into The leading
tailor shops and find that they are all
using soft silks for lining. Gros grain
and surahs, and even crepes are popu-
lar. Above all things the gown must
cling. To be thoroughly correct there
must be no trimming; stitching is
the ornamentation permitted.
In spite of the rumor that the skirt
and coat age is past, they will be more
in vogue than ever and this necessitates
the popular separate waist. How are
the tailor made gowns cut this year ?
The eternal and beloved Etun still
holds its own, and with the seven
gored tight-fittipg skirt, smooth across
the back and flaring from the knee. it
is the most liked of all the styles. The
Elton jnckets this year have long fronts,
with square or round rabs, and plain
seamless backs. OF course l saw some
long coats, but these are becoming to
but few figures. The tunics are popular
with these suits, but must be made
perfectly plain, only stitched around
the edge.
Carrie selected brown model. II
Is satin cloth stitched with black.
The Elton Jacket fits perfectly and has
a black velvet collar. For more dressy
occasions detachable reyers come with
the coat. made of white cloth braided
with gold and edged with fur. The
white satin tucked waist and white
velvet collar made up the ensemble.
To make successful appearance,
the tailor-made girl must give from
underneath. First corset should be
considered, and so few women appre.
eiate the value Of well-made corset.
Then the skirt, the retticost as it we're
FlouEced taffetas have had their day.
IL you must wear silk skirt it mus
be scft surah, fitted exactly like you
cloth skirt but to be thoroughly up
to-dase In one Of these tight-fittinI
cloth gowns, bloomers are the correc
thing. Yes, know you hate the name
but they can be made to be very prett,
affairs just now. Carries are Of blacl
satin, Hannel-lined and finished at tn
knee with black bow and little bras
buckles. Nothing could be more iaunt
and neat looking.
The drop skirts Of all the tailor. mad
suits are of bright colors, and make
very pretty effect when milady lifts tn
dark cloth and reveals the daint
oolors.
At CARRIES suggestion I ordered
suit, and knowing that it must answe
for many. purposes ordered blac
one. 1t is made with a plain Etc
Jacket, a tunic overskirt effect. stitch
ing being the only trimming. and th
lining of violet surah. The collar is
velvet roll, just like the mems collar!
worn with a pair Of dog skin glove
and. big black turban with a era
bird in it, feel we'll equipped for tt
morning. Now for luncheon came
always go home to change my gowi
80 wear waist of some gay silk an
have for the coat one of those adius
able collars and revers of white eliot
braided in black. 1 have a pair
light gloves ready, a new long vel
and feel quite as well-equipped +,
luncheon as our friend Carrie. In Il
evening wear white taffeta tuck.
waist and a turquoise blue velvet cola
and my same black Elton Jacket hi
this time its revers of white braided
gold. and with my pearl gloves al
black tulle hat with its pink roses
feel quite ready to stand sctutil
beside the immaculate.
The tailor made gill must rememb
above all things to be exact, TO
neat and to be spotless, and her b
must be severe. / noticed to-day tn
the women having just the right THU
and knowing when and how 10 wear
thanks be TO the changeable goddess
fashion, have discarded the chain, d
eternal slave chain about the nee
We have bowed ouI necks to yokes
coral, silver and cheap glass bea,
links until we have had a surfeit
them, and the chain save a mode
elender one of gold for the businc
woman's watch or milady's lorgnette
is tabooed. Portia.
VARIAO IAIr rs A NEARING.
Held In $1,000 BAH for the Court
General Sessions.
Cyril b. Variau, who was arrested
Tuesday, was arraigned in the vi