davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-01-01
A FOMAN,s WOMAN.
With the "New Woman" There Has Como
n Change with Those Not New.

n Change with Those Not Now.
soma baars n oood deaI ,bont tho ,ev
ohe hea,s " EoUu uo"l y IL no"
woman said a Washington woman who has
had long and varied social experience in Eng
land and America. but it seems to me that
the women meet to-day arc very much like
the women l knew fifty years ago. There
may pe mort VINO are niIhi' euuea'eu' OF eeit
supporting; but the well-bred woman doesn't
talk entomology or Greek roots or shop in
society," anu l eant teh "a pte''s siri VINO
knows about bugs from one who doesn't. II
A girls frock is stunning. l don't care whether
she narned n or her fothar Maid for If Tho
sne earneu IL Or her luInoF p"iu ior IT, ine
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-01-01

Che new year may have to offer US in the way
Of novelty in dress is the especial point OF in
terest. But it is too young yet to give us any
definite indications. except SO far as the pres
emit modes are an indication Of things to come.
A review Of fashion during the past year does
not disclose any violent revolutions in dress or
any strikingly original ideas, so gradually have
the variations come about. The changes that
loom up most conspicuously in the perspective
are In the sleeves and skirts. and wraps as
well. but the last have failed to meet with gen.
sral approval. the little skirt coat being still In
the lead. Long coats. redingotes. or whatever
the long sacdue garments may be called. are
here, however. bidinG their time. which Is close
ut hand. since their popularity is increasing
every day. especially for evening wear.
The diminished sleeve and skirt stand out
among the fashions Of the year as the special
points of difference; but there are also in
Vulnerable variations in the detail Of dress
which may be set down to the years credit, as
well as q very progressive element in the ex-
travagance in dress which has developed within
the past six months. 1t is a very simple mat
ter to cultivate q woman's taste for elegance OF
any sort. She takes to it as naturally as tho
flowers turn to the sunlight. and certainly the
past year has been a trial and a temptation to
all women with a limited income. Expansion
IL the accepted policy Of finance in the fem
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-01-01
GERMAN DIs0UISITIoN ON KISSING.
How Different Nations Manage 1.-THE Much
Kissed Crown Princess of Greece.
From Ns NaneAener Allpsneine zeitunp.

Kissed Crown Princess of Greece.
From tie Aanehener Afiaeneine Zeituno.
In France there are thousands OF opportu-
mites for plentiful kissing. Brothers kiss Sis
ters. husband wives. friends each other. II
would even be thought prudish should q young
lady refuse to offer her cheek for q kiss to a
friend of the family on his departure or return
s after q m Long s s6se enc family In England Y Issa oo kissing Isl
Men never kiss one another. Still more ro-
strained are they In Scotland. where a woman
would consider it beneath her, dignity II she
kissed her grown up sons. and mothers are
sparlnR OF c~aresses even for their little boys.
In, northern lands the kiss Is reserved ex-
people there always kiss the mouth. which
gives to this expression Of affection tho charge
tel, OF great intimacy; It is COMPREHENSIVE
should bravely defend their rosy lips against
the attacks Of bold cousins, and the stealing OF
punishabIe Offence. for TwhlcIhn a .hnse is i'm
posed, The definition Of a kiss by a
Chinese, is INTERESTING; A mandarin, who
Ing the European customs was greatly per-
picked n trying to erpla!!nT : sis Sieg t nj a, pn,
the lips OF one person into contact with the
chin Of another. whereby q sound is produced,"'
exclusively 70 love; there are occasions When
1t is prescribed by court etiquette. On the
occasion Of the Crown Prince OF Greece's we'd
Kaiser's sister. was Obliged to bestow no less
d dTeS SiS rs fSs hh 5GTss sisf Frs;d SS fia his s1 %pS sSs;
Wilhelm and. the Empress, while ali, the
kiss apiece, The poor Crown Princess on
leaving the church, must have had, all the
kissing she wanted and can have had few
Kisses have played a part IN politics. too. for
the Duchess OF Devonshire bought votes with
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-01-01

killed lounces to the knee. above which is an
apron overdress. or made with double or posi-
bly, triple tunics. Ruches of mousseline are
used to edge the founces and q narrow edging
OF fur Is used for the TUNES. The effect Is good
II the upper one only is trimmed with fur and
the lower ones are edged with the ruches. In
colors the mousseline may be OF any OF the
medium shades-a pretty shade of brown. blue
or red-and the bodice Is Of velvet to match.
In cut 1t may be a jaunty little coat Of Louis
Nv. style. with elbow sleeves. finished with a
frill OF cream lace. which also trims the front.
or a round waist with a belt, a deep yoke and
sleeves Of the shirred mousseline, and a finish
OF fur.
Mousseline de sole skirts. with velvet tunics
forming also a part of the bodice in the shape
Of a deep pointed belt. are one OF the specialties
in evening dress. The painters art was APP
piled TO dress In q very Attractive manner
during 189S. and we have hand-painted NOUS
seine de sole for evening gowns. and self
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-01-01
NATIVE PHILIPPINE GIRLS.
They Have Graceful Figures and Arc EI-
perts at Riding and Swimming.
From he NtW Orleans Npes- Democrat.

From TIE Neu Orleans Tsnses- Democrat.
The Philippine maiden ID usually very pretty.
with a graceful. supple figure. Her eyes are
largo aud shaded by long. dark lashes; her
hair Is black in color. long and glossy. and 1t is
her, chief pride. She gives IL a great deal Of
care and attention. frequently amounting 1t
with oil OF the cocoanut, which probably
gives 1t the peculiar gloss. The young girl
usually wears her hair hanging loosely Town
her back, but the Older women build 1t up In a
fanciful knot. often adorned with flowers.
Next to her hair the Philipplne girl prides
herself on her feet. She ID not, like the poor
Chinese women. forced 10 have them Of dlmin-
utive proportions. but she Is Just az careful OF
them. She wears. no stockings, but incases
the feet in deliberately embroidered slippers
Very few Of the women In these islands are
well educated. Some. however, have been
taught in, the converts, but their number ig
very small. The Philippine girl is, very fond
of music and is generally able to play both on the
harp and the guitar. The guitar is very popular
and might be called the national instrument.
For the purpose Of assisting, them In playing
the girls allow the thumb nail OF the right hand
10 grow very long.
These girls are athletically inclined. They
ride and swim with great dexterity, They are
also very fond of dancing. In Manila, which ls
a very cosmopolitan city. many Mestizes. who
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-01-01

One OF the special features OF the seasons
modes Is the universal use OF cloth for morn
ing and afternoon gowns. for everything. In
fact. but full evening dress. Velvets and silks
are both very much worn for gowns and wraps.
but the pretty new lightweight cloths In beige.
gray. and light tints or black are the thing to
have. One black cloth gown is accounted a
necessity in the fashionable woman's winter
outfit. and surely nothing can give greater
satisfaction for general wear or furnish q
greater degree OF style. Black cloths were
never 20 fine and glossy as they are this season.
and never SO much worn. They certainly have
the lead for modish gowns suitable to wear at
any time OF day and for any kin Of a function.
Trimmed with chenille and applique embroid-
cry OF various kinds they are the most charm
ing OF all the cloth gowns. and even IL the
skirt Is plain the bodice Is made dressy with
some openwork embroidery showing a white
lining underneath.
Another feature OF dress which has been
brought out in greater perfection during the
past year is the happy blending OF light and
dark colors. heavy and gauze-like materials.
such as fur and tulle. velvet and chiffons.
Some OF the latest reception gowns for after
moor wear on at home" days are a combina-
ton Of mousseline de sole and velvet, the former
making the skirt. which is either a series OF
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-01-01
WoMAN,s Varied INTERESTS.

Marcella sembrlch has o book in which every
performance at which she sings is recorded.
Many women keep books in which they record
every performance they witness. There was q
time when Just any old book. a ledger or a
eerapbook. was thought quite good enough for
the preservation Of programmes Of opera. con-
cert and theatre: but that Is no longer the
case. A special theatre book is now consid-
cred a necessary possession by every theatre
going woman. The theatre hook may be a
thing Of beauty. and II carefully and properly
kept should prove Q Joy forever, and IN
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-01-01
Henry Ward Beecher was on the right traoh
when he declared that 1t was q sin to DO ILL.,"

An American woman travelling in the East
wrote some interesting things from Constantine
nople about Turkish rugs recently. She says
that a New York concern keeps q buyer there
oil the time and that he snatches up the best
Of everything In the rug line. And" she
added. You pay for the Turkish rugs you get
too. II I had q place Of my own in New York Z
should buy several and pay the duty on them
less than II I bought them Mt home. A silk
rug such as you pay from $500 to 5000 for
there / can get here for $125; and. OIL
when too large for a room. The floor is COM
pletely covered and the surplus tackled up on
the four walls. wainscoting fashion. The efeot
is f1ne."
Not a bad idea for rugs far less fine than those
referred to.
A new hair ornament consists OF an enams
elled ball studded with mock gems and fasS
toned, spiral. fashion, on q long gilt hairpina
The ball sticks straight out OF the Knot.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-01-01

easier 10 prophesy after things happen and
after tho new modes come out. but We are led
TO anticipate the use OF corded and repped
materials In both silk and wool for spring wear.
Some dress silks In lively colon with tiny dots
and stripes OF chenille are already shown, and
a new thin material very much like batiste has
made its appearance. This has a waved stripe
which resembles ribbon with a corded edge
and comes in all the pretty pale colors. The
use of chenille and satin cord as q dress deco
ration will be more in evidence among the
spring modes than on our winter gowns. In
all-over taffetas for waists there are nan
pretty designs with drawn threads. braided
designs in scroll patterns done in silk cord, e:
broidered with dots and bow knots. and shirred
on cords with drawn work between. Pretty
new organizes with chenille dots arranged in
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-01-01

are Creole girls OF the Philippines. 60 into the
best society. One old-time custom now pre-
wallis in the Philippines that will undoubtedly
P RSsri SHay ii, si and rue rule. oe q Is an cd ID m mae hsw
custom. and obliges the lover to serve in the
house OF his intended brides father for several
riage feasts usually last for several days. Then
the bride. who has often not seen more than
fifteen Ia led away to he- husband's
home, q house made Of bamboo. probably built
by his own banda.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-01-01

clusters with scattering dots between are
brought out for inspection without any regard
for the freezing temperature.
The new colors. usually the first harbingers
OF spring in the world Of fashion. are beyond
enumeration. with all their variations OF tints
and meaningless names. But IL will suffice for
the present to say that every color in It's light
est tints will be worn. and every conceivable
shade which modern science in dyes can in
vent will be out in full bloom later on.
For afternoon receptions last season the
hostess usually donned a decollet6 gown. but
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-01-01

rial is sevres blue cloth. and the bodice opens
over a tucked white silk vest turned back at
the neck In revers. The epaulettes. belt and
cravat are OF black velvet and small gold but
tons are the finish.
Some variation in the blouse waist. which has
become such a staple article Of dress. is always
acceptable. The first model Is In pale blue
silk tucked and corded with a scroll design In
gathered blue satin baby ribbon edged with
black velvet ribbon. Tho yoke is Of white
satin. yelled with yellow lace. Another COM
bination OF silk and spotted velvet has n bolero
trimmed with velvet ribbon and a vest OF
tucked satin. Pale mauve silk forms the next
bodice, which is closely tucked by hand even
to the little revers piped with velvet OF q darker
shade. The crossed-over vest Of white satin
is edged with mauve satin, trimmed with olive
buttons. and the yoke above Is OF cream lace
over satin. Something very simple and novel
in effect is a pink taffeta waist closely tucked
all around. Thu sleeves are tucked up and
down on either side OF a lace insertion, the
yoke and collar are Of lace over white
satin and the edge around the yoke Is finished
with q tiny piping Of silk. On the shout
ders are some half oval-shRped pieces of the
tucked silk. also piped around the edge and
Joined to the waist. back and front alike. with
braided pink cords. with tiny gold buttons ct
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-01-01

Of the modern improvements for two years
now. yet they seem quite new. and so the eyo-
luton In dress goes on.
The shaped %founce. which seemed so novel
when 1t first put In IN appearance. il an old
fashion revived, and the close-htting tunic.
quite as sheath-liko around the hips az 1t Is
now. was worn about twenty years ago. To be
sure 1t was draped in some way, possibly
caught up on one side In an ungraceful fashion.
but II was a tunic. anG usually made OF some
contrasting material from the underskirt. The
pelisse we are trying to revive was worn some-
thing like ninety years ago, and the polonaise
nourished in 1875. though not quite so long as
the modern garment Of that name. or 80 grace
full in outline. 1t all goes to prove that after all
there is nothing new unde the sun. even in the
eternally changing fashions. TUNES made OF
lace insertion alternated with bands of velvet
or stripes Of silk were an old-time fashion we
may expect again. and fringcs Of all widths
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-01-01

skirt. with two Chantilly lace founces over
white silk. Black feather trimming is used as
an edging. A pretty model for cloth or silk
made with a tunic is trimmed with lace and fur
and decorated on the skirt and bodice with ap-
pllqu6 embroidery. The pretty possibilities Of
combining MORE with cloth and fur are shown
in another illustration. The skirt Is OF moirG
and the double tunic and bodice Of cloth are
embroidered with chenille and edged with fur.
A triple effect is the feature Of the next skirt.
the two upper portions forming a sort Of di-
rectoire coat tail at the back. being finished
with rows OF stitching on the edge. The mate
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-01-01

cruIted By a Duchess OF Gordon, who offered q
kiss TO the men who would not take the Kings
shilling.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-01-01
FASHIONS IN REVIEW.
New Perfection Of Dress
Evolved During 1898.
OUTLOOK For NEXT YEAR,
Growing Elegance and Extrava.
gance in the Feminine World.

The DIminished sleeve and skirt Special
Points of Difference Among the Fashions
of the Ycar-Old Modes Revived and Inn
proved-Universal Use of Cloth for Morn
ing and Afternoon Gowns-Happy Blend
ings of Light and Dark Colors and Heavy
and Gauzelilte MnteriaIs-Ths Painters
Art Applied to Dress During the Year
Likely Features of the Fashions for 1899
Variety of the New Colors-Gowns for
Afternoon Receptions and Some vnri-
ations in the Favorite Blouse Waist.
The fashions OF 1893 are already a thing OF
the past, a subject for retrospection. and what
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-01-01
D0inty Cake

THE Royal Baking Powder
Il makes sweet, light, finely
favored and wholesome breads,
biscuit and cake. 1t is of high
leavening strength, and therefore
goes far in work and is economical.
Government and other scientific
tests show that it is a perfect leaven-
ing agent, absolutely pure.
ROYAL BAKING POWDER CO., NEW YORK.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-01-01

colored broche silks painted in the natural
tints OF the flowers represented in the pattern.
Embroideries were never before 80 varied and
elegant as they arc this season. nor laces more
exquisite in pattern. So it would seem.
with all the variety in materials and
modes OF combining them. hat women
might be gratihed In every within Of
taste they may possess. Certainly the
outlines of dress have reached a harmo-
NOUS. graceful adjustment which cannot be
very much improved without remodelling the
human form itself. Dress has q very extended
influence. a distinguished position in society
which never can be taken by any other element.
and we have every reason to expect still greater
improvements In all the directions which make
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-01-01

around the neck and tied in a short. close bow
in 'front.'; the ends are carried straight down
the 'front.'. tied in a knot at the bust and fas-
tened underneath the belt. A pretty model for
a velvet waist has a tucked satin vest and Is
trimmed with fur. and a cream lace scarf car
ried around the nee. is threaded through two
buttonholes worked on either side. A tucked
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-01-01

inino world Just at present for all who aspire to
the heights which fashion has attained. as
everything in elegant materials, sumptuous
coloring. elaborate embroidery. and exquisite
needlework of all kinds Is a factor in the pres
emit scheme OF fashion.
Mover in the history of fashion has there been
a gre alter degree OF elegance or more luxurious
dressing than is possible now with all the rich
fabrics. dainty textures and artistic modes at
our command. We have borrowed something
from every century and so deity have all been
woven into fashions fabric that old fancies are
not easily recognized as old friends. Victorian
fashions have been slowly coming back to us
with much of tho old-time quaintness and all
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-01-01

either end. The special touch which makes IL
smart is che necktie OF black Liberty satin cdt
bias and narrowly hemmed. This is carried
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-01-01

the high-necked costume is considered per-
fectly correct this season. and here is one OF
black and white silk. cut tunic fashion over a
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1899-11-23
CLARK BRIBERY CASE.
Strong Testimony Against the Montana
Senator

ANACONDA CMont.), Nov 11-This
week the time Of the Supreme Court Of
Montana has been taken up with the
hearing Of the charges against John
attorneys. who was Clark's confidential
man during the Senatorial election last
winter and who is accused of having
distributed a that time large sums Of
money in the alleged bribery of mem
bers of the Legislature in the interest
OF Clark. The process pending IN the
Supreme Court is for the disbarment
of Welcome.
Senator Whiteside testified to having
direct dealings with Welcome in sew
eral transactions involving the pur-
chase OF votes State Senator Clark
of Madison county testified that on ap-
| pointment, he was in Welcomes room
at the Helena Hotel; that Whiteside
was also present; that Welcome count
ed out ten $1,000 bills. These were put
! in an envelope and marked by State
! Senator Clark with his initials, in the
presence of Whiteside and Welcome
| Welcome proposed that the money
/ thus placed in the envelope and mark
| ed be put in Whitesides care, the bar
gain being that State Senator Clark
was TO vote for w. A. Clark as long
as Welcome should request him tc
do it.
! Senator Meyers of Ravalli county tes-
! lifted that the $4,000 in the envelope
marked with his initials, which was
also deposited with the State Treasurer
| last winter, was given to him, as he
| supposed, for the purchase of his vote
! fol- w. A. Clark. Sheriff Stiff of Mis-
| SOula county testified that from one
OF Clark's agents ne was urged to ac.
cept $4,000 he to retire from the
! Speakership contest and vote for Clarl
for Senator The impression is, under
a ruling made today, chat the Supreme
Court will confine the testimony strict
ly to the charges that relate directly
to the accused, Welcome, whose law.
yers are making a sturdy defense. The
hearing will probably consume the
| Courts time for another week The
case gets its especial interest from the
| fact that all parties concerned regard
| it as the preface to the proposed action
to have w. A. Clark's seat in the Fed
eral Senate declared vacant on the
ground of bribery
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1899-11-23

VICTORIA tB. c.. Nov 14-Rumors
of impending trouble for the exiled
Prime Minister, Kang Yu Wei. have
been current here for fortnight past,
the report being that he had aimed
to gain possession of the new Amer
lean Chinese society's campaign fund
Of 100000 upon his arrival in Yoko
hama, to which neutral point it had
been forwarded.
This rumor is in measure confirmed
by Empress Of China adyices yesterday,
to the effect that the Japanese author
| tiles, prompted by sympathizers with
the reform movement among theprom-
inent Chinese, refused to CANT the
exile a landing when he crossed TO
Kobe from Vancouver on the Empress
Of India.
He accordingly transferred in great
agitation TO the steamer keWacnl-
Maru, which landed him at Hongkons,
| his plan being to avoid the Canadian
Pacific boats call at Shanghai, where
| it was said plans had been laid for his
assassination. He is now arranging
to take up his headquarters in Homo
lulu, thence directing the revolution
airy campaign.
| Kang, it is now discovered, left
America in response to cablegram
advising him of the serious illness OF
Il his mother. Reaching the other side
he learned that his mother was not
| i'll and cleaned that the ruse had been
ARRANGED by emissaries of the Empress
| Dowager to draw him within her
sphere of operations. He is, therefore
trembling during his stay in a death
fraught locality and anxious to return
to safe shores. The japanese Govern
ment is being severely scored by the
press for not having permitted the exile
a landing, if only until the departure OF
a HaWaii-bound vessel.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1899-11-23

Only the highest grade Of RED RUB
GER ID used In the Stamps made b,
tue HAWAIIAN GAZETTE co.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1899-11-23
SEND YOUR FRIENDS

One of our Hawaiian Souvenir Art
Calendars for 1900. The most hand
some calendar yet produced, contain
ing thirteen cards of choice views Ha-
waiian scenery; price 81. WALL,
NICHOLS CO., LTD.
Freeland tribune. (Freeland, Pa.) 1888-1921, 1899-05-29
HoME-cQMING.

Once more upon the old stiles top
rest my arms and look
Upon the dear, oft-dreamed-of scene
OF meadow land and brook.
The tall fir trees about me stand
Like clustered soldiers grim,
And through their tops the evening
breeze
Signs, a soft requiem.
Those happy days of long ago,
When life was in it's spring,
With youths glad heart, as free from
care
AS birds that soar and sing.
And dreams Of that sweet bygone time
Shine through the dark'ning past
AS harbor lights to sailors eyes,
Storm-tossed, show home at last.
From all the turmoil of my life
l find a sweet release,
And to my burdened, tired heart
Comes Gods most perfect peace.
Ah, weary souls, whose dearest dreams
Earth's fate and grind may blight,
Let natures teachings point the way
If you would find true light.
MARY DEVEREUX.