The Worcester spy. [volume] (Worcester, Mass.) 1898-1904, 1899-08-17
The NORTH SHORE.
Worcester Man writes
About His Trip In
Nova Scotia.
JOURNEYS BY SEA AND LAND.
Raspberries, Trout and the
Charming Hospitality
of the People.

and an express wagon, in charge of the
11-year-old son. Some of the party ex-
pressed doubts as to the safety of
journey with such youthful pilots; but
| the landlords assurance that the horses
would ga themselves, put all doubts to
rest and we started off merrily along
the winding road, which was Of red
loose sand and billy in places.
The route lay around the head of
Peneaux river, and there was nothing
out of the ordinary till we arrived at
the foot Of the mountain, and we hard
| ly knew when we got to that part of
! our journey the ascent was so gradual
The drive up the long hill was quite an.
| event in our journey, particularly that
| part of it when he ell got out and
! walked. The raspberry bushes grew out
| into the roadway and the big ripe ber-
| ries We're too tempting o"pass lightly
| by. On each side the natural stone gut
| ters were alive with musical waters
which tinlkled, gurgied and splashed
| from stone to stons down into pool
| below, shaded and suggestive of the
| haunts Of trout, SO suggestive that
Jack cast line, and in moment came
rushing up to the rest of the party with
a seven-inch trout still dangling on the
| hook. He had to go on, but would have
| fingered Indefinitely in the shade of
| oVerhanging trees, and listened to the
music of the song birds and mountain
| brooks. Our baggage man was stirring
up his team and our lady driver seemed
| anxious to get on, so the march to the
level was soon accomplished, and we
| came suddenly in sight of the ocean
| that we lost sight Of only little while
| before.
| The hill and water shed now turned
| toward the shore and we started in OF
| a lively trot on the down grade. There
is very little to see except the large
| bay with it's red waters, the high crest
Of land ending with Cape Spit, and the
| distant western shore The first thing
| to do after dinner was to wait for the
| tide to go out so we could get out to
the shad traps.
| These are immense pounds made of
nets stretched on stakes driven into the
| fiat mud. There are 10 great hauls this
year; but we were in luck, for among
| the few "bone-p pockets" taken was a
| beautiful little salmon, which fell to
| our lot. 1t was very soon In hot water
again, and was served with sweet
cream.
We have had baked shad boiled shad,
| fried shad, broileG shad, shad salt,
|
shed their jackets. And raspberries in
! shortcake and au Eaturel and with
4 cream. We spend all the days on the
| beach and would like to stay there
| nights, if only mermaids' beds were
| dryer and softer. We like the splash Of
| the water, and listen to the boom Of the
| ''misal guns" wonderingly always, for
we have never learned the occasion or
the mission of this ghostly marine ar
| tilIery
The time passes so quickly that it is
noon ere morning IS fully ripe, and the
roseate sunset follows so quickly on the
heels of noontide that we groan inward
| ly when we know that the morrow will
be the last but one here. We go to see
a man turning out napkin rings, caster
] sets, ETC., on a foot lathe. He is So. He
was once well off, but in fit OF weak
ness signed away his property 20 two of
! his children. He had neglected studying
| king Lear" He said that he made
| good living, as he sold all that he could
make. He also makes "a patent broom
| holder a ''pie litter" and other things.
SCOTS Bay is improving. The school
house has got itself together and there
( is more fixing up on the farms. The
cattle look sleek and are of good fam
| lily" Dat fields show the wisdom of
| Canada In establishing experimental
stations. Some of the fields here are
planted with their seeds, and 100 bush
els to the acre is the return looked for.
There are no shipping facilities, so that
the garden truck business is out of
sight.
Today was the climax day of our
visit. We had fried shad for an early
| dinner Then Jasper hitched UP the
| black mare in the four-seated wagon,
| put the grown folk in. slowed in the
babies and the children, and then
| jumped in himself and drove "hckety
petit down the cross road by the old
! ship yard along the water front" to
the cove, where the last house was and
where we were all bundled out to take
| the boat to the split" The horse was
| anchored to the barn Of the last
| house." and we were soon at the beach
in a little cove made by natural
| breakwater. 1t was nearly high water
| when we started out in big double
| ender, propelled by spruce sails mani
| pulated by browny, sinewy arms
These people are all round men. They
can pull an oar with one hand and milk
| COW with the other. The second
oarsman had Joined our party just be-
| fore we got to the cove. A valuable
addition; for without him would have
| been compelled to forego the pleasures
| of the day on the BASIN
They called him Irwin He was bow
| oar and pilot 1t was long pull past
! the craggy coast, where in many places
| the cliffs were perpendicular and of
| great height, sometimes bare, where
| there were innumerabe gulls perched
upon the crevices and below in the
| water hocks of "gullets" were taking
! their first lessons in swimming. Some
times there was deep gulch IN the
| cliff. 1 remember a particularly deep
| one as Reed gulch." Can 1t be that it
| was named for our Tom? 1t is deep
and wide enough for that honor. Then
there was "Gentleman's cove, and
| other coves that were exceedingly
| gentlemanly to us, but we dare say
/ they cut UP wild occasionally when we
are not there to see.
| Finally we get to one particular cove,
| where there Is bit of pebbly beach.
| Our boats keel CRATES on the shore.
| Her bow is high and dry, and her stern
| afioat. Bold water makes an easy
| landing. Up on the side Of the bluff
there are big wild gooseberries, nearly
| red In short order, nearly every two
legged animal is there, too.
We go up on the bluff by a natural
stairway of solid works, and through
| a lot of underbrush, along a sheep path
and through hardwood land a long way
! ii seemed to us, but in reality a short
i distance, and emerge suddenly into
broad daylight on the edge of Cape
| Split,
i It is a grand sight. The air is full Of
4 gulls. sight, sound and smell are called
i into requisition, and each sense seems
to have the louder call. Separated
from the cape by narrow chasm.
Gull rock" looms high in the air. Its
1 straight sides have never been scaled
! by mortal; Its top is fiat and hare of
trees, but there Is never a moment, day