The Topeka state journal., 1899-12-15

Another rather odd effect IN trimming
is wide band of satin matching the
cloth in color, cut in broad points on
either edge, and stitched all over in a
diamond design, which gives it the ap-
pearance of being quilted. The edges
of the points are finished with narrow
stitched bands of cloth. One cloth
gown shows a narrow front breadth
entirely covered with rows of stitching
stripping it down from the waist to the
hem, each row outlining the shape all
around and forming a half square at
the bottom. Bands of velvet down the
front breadth, broadening toward the
hem, trim another cloth skirt, which is
made with the fashionable box plait in
the back and a circular f1Ounce begin
ming on either side of the front. This
is headed by a band of velvet.
The skirt with six box plaits is very
good style for cloth. The plaits meet
in the middle of the back, begin at the
sides of the front breadth, which is
plain and are stitched down nearly to
the knee, giving the clOSefitting effect
around the hips. This sort of skirt is
the feet, and the plaitS which widen a
little toward the hem may be caught
down all the way, or left to fall in
folds below the knee.
The unnistakable feature which dis
tingUishes the new from the old gowns
is the sleeve. In its latest edition it
is quite closeftting, with very little
fullnesS at the top, in fact, none at all.
except as a few gathers are necessary
to make the sleeve fit the arm. 1t must
fit, too, as carefully close as the skirts
fit the hips, but it can be made as fancy
as you like with trimming, which,
spreading out from the bodice in a. little
cap effect, gives the effect of breadth
across the shoulders which so many
women need to help out the loss of
breadth which the fuller sleeve gave.
The other telItale feature which stamps
the gown as new or old is the length
of the skirt. While there is a comfort
2 a
street wear, and strictly tailor made
gowns of the plaineSt description, all
gowns with any pretentiOnS toward
dreSSy effects are long all around with
a little train at the back Evening
gowns have long train, and any gown
which is to be worn only in the house
must be supplied with a decided train.
An idea which seems to be gaining
favor is the use of soft silks for lining.
OF rather for the foundation skirt. Stiff
glace silk is barred out for this special
purpose, and the distinctive rustic
which can be heard half block away
is no longer considered elegant. It is
the soft swish, merely suggesting silk
lined elegance which has the call this
season Another point among the cloth
costumes made with the bolero and
EtOn coats is the interlining of per-
fOrated chamOis to make them warm
enough for street wear. These little
jackets are warmer than they look, since
most of them are supplied with fur col
lars and revers, or worn with fur boas
of some sort.
The latest fancy of the ever-changing
mode is dainty fluffy cape, made of
chiffon of the color of the cloth gown,
and a gOOdly supply of fur, which to-
gether form a very elegant addition to
the cloth costume. The chiffon is in
fine plaitings, with ruches on the edge,
and forms long scarf ends, which have
the appearance of being tied at the
neck
Among the pretty models in simple
cloth gowns is one shown in the illus