The times., 1899-08-13
MISTY BILLOHS OF LACE
They Foam Over White and Tinted
Satin Gowns.
Advance Displays Show That the
TrInnon shape VIII Prevail Among
ua,s This autumn-BaIIroomN Nets.
where Ribbon Ripples-ayvay With
Lingerie Tucks-NeEy Neck Chains.

value of this talent is al premium Tor
now is the time when wear and weather
have taken the crispness from the pretti-
est gowns. AT this writing lace seems the
strong weapon of defence in feminine
hands against the depredations CT hard
use aud hot days. During this month the
mission Of lace is especially made evident
at the casino or country club dinners and
dances, that now celebrate the countless
yacht races, golf tournaments, and polo
games. At such festivities the sweetest
gowns are more or less elaborate lace
bodices with the invariable and servicea-
bic white satin skirt Not so many sea-
sons ago the black satin skirt was the
backbone Of every wardrobe, whether for
winter or summer, but white, ivory, or
opal white is the accepted rock OF sar-
torial salvation at present. 1t is made as
a drop skirt on a rather limp taifeta basis,
and the taffeta supper is neither stihened
nor faced at the edges. just hem is run
round the foot and one three-ineh wide
scailoped edged knife pleated fiounce set
on the outside.
Upon this decends the satin sheath, dec
GRATED with a knee deep fiounce OF killed
white net ruched at either edge and often
adorned with incrHstations of lace. That
is one good mode for trimming. The other
is to gather. hip high in the seams. narrow
Hounces of blonde or Imitation point lace,
or TO lay gariands of lace on the surface
OF the satin. Invariably dip is given to
the skirt behind. and because OF their
trains women have learned to dance ca
pably and gracefully with one hand, for
the right member is absolutely required
TO hold the train well above rude tramp
ling heels
melts not in damp weather and crushes
not in dry and wears always a discreetly
festive air, the bodice is not OF necessity
in exact accord. IL can be OF crushed
chiffon, though that or indeed any wholly
chiffon waist is quite demode, and il can
be OF colored silk or satin arranged iu-
diciously with lace. The lace arrange
ment seems to follow always the form of
handsome points so laid on that the bodice
is not wholly decollette. In nine cases out
OF ten the waist is a part OF the shell OF
some dress already worn to the death, and
restored 10 pristine loyeliness by the over
laying Of points.
AT all the public and seni-public balls
this summer, gay little head decorations,
brave and constant showing. Two white
ostrich feathers. curling crown-like about
the head from q central leweled ornament
is one Of the prettiest and most easily ar
ranged types OF dancing hat seen; small
capote of black or gilded white tulle and
a wreath Of pink roses is another popular
form while long leaves made of wired
white lace edged with crimped bebe rib
bon. trims the hair admirably.
81 1P ~ha
maneuvres in dress filters in, and unless
ali accepted signs fail, we will be in pos
session, in the new season. OF a hat that
does and must turn on the face. The
small close-ftting faring brimmed Tria-
non shape is destined TO make itself a
power later on. though al present only the
most advanced women are wearing il. In
felt or velvet il can hardly fail to frame
any face becomingly, and il is worn as
comfortably with as without strings
However, after fighting strings fuTiously
the majority Of women are succumbing to
their Establishments with a rush. If yoU
viii just turn countrywards, the reason
Why cannot fail 20 be obvious.
Every second woman is wearing a Sail,
In Cur Alley nat, a thing that in its naket
form would be called a rather dowdy leg.
horn or chip, in black or white, but undc
the new dispensation is quite vision O
through and through by two long-leggeI
pins that make il fast fat on the head
Round the crown is laid a wreath of roses
or reed grass, or a pair OF not very fresi
ostrich feathers. and then the crowninl
glory OF the whole is the strings. The re
ceipt for these Is about two yards of pear
pink or wheat yellow silk muslin. net o
chiffon. hemmed at either edge narrowly
finished st the ends with lace and then II
the middle Of this half yard wide scarf !
drawn into a full bow. The bow is hxe
right on top the crown Of the hat, or o
the brin behind, and the lengthy sash end
OF the scarf are drawn down and tied unde
the chin This is all the most CAREFUL
prearranged coquetry, but IL is worn wit
an air OF naive country simplicity that woul
DO credit.to Maud Muller. and best Of al
il IL distinctly becoming 10 the averae
young face.
The rnidseason mode has found Sue
wholesale adoption as that OF trimmin
cotton frOcks with lace OF embroider
beading through which bebe ribbon is rul
There is nothing new in the idea, b,
solely fn its application, and one Of II
most interesting evening dresses for
youngish woman is a Swiss muslin ski
trimmed at the foot and again 1T II
knees with group OF rather mario
founces, showing scailoped edges. A
these edges are trimmed with q waller
olennes beading through which pa
blue OF rose ribbon rippies. A now-necks
short-sleeved waist made entirely of 10
on row OF beading. intersected with ri
bon, is the hsppiest contrast to the oiou'
like skirts Around the shoulders Of th
quaint bodice all the ribbons debauch, al
tying in small bowknote. form a ia
fringe OF color Elbow sleeves and n
vers over the bust, both made Of ribbc
beading usually complete such Sais
that could hardly fail to suit youthf
figure and coloring
After jewel and pearl set Jet and cryst
chains. yorscious woman, weary OF q
these, has cried out for a novelty. and
usual her command has been fulfilled. TV
new neckchains are already out al seryic
and the effort of the jewelers. has been
contrtve something that cannot be instan
ly vulgsrized by imitation. One is a loI
and rather too heavy affair made or soil
oddly shaped. and decorated links OF col
irasted metals. Platinum. various tints
gold and silver, and even gun metal, a
worked together in the long series OF stot
quaint links and on this Is fastened g b
or purse Of soft leather.
In the evening the fan chain is a stret.
OF gold links, punctuated with uncut IL
quoise. with streaks Of the brownish m
trix stone running through the blue al
the surface left quite rough, which tou'
of barbaric splendor rather appeals to w
men than Otherwise Both OF these chai
are made Ia an endless circle, no break
the inks shows at any point. and all q
koepsalSes. etc, strung on them are ma
fast by means OF small gold or silver Fl
rings
Very soothing 70 any soul sensitive
beauty ss a glimpse az the novelties
underwear. Already the specialties (
the fall trade are putting forth. and II