The record-union., 1899-10-08

Lace or net blouse vests beneath
garcon de cafe or Eton Jackets of satln
or velvet are frequently seen among
pretty autumn evening dresses. Skirts
of satin, cloth or silk are worn
with these jackets, and if they are in
colors, the silk lining beneath the lace
vest matches it. But the collar and
folded girdle are of velvet, matching
the jacket.
Shades in yellow are among thefash-
ionable tints, rivaling the new beautl-
ful pink dyes in favor. Sunset is 4
brilliant shade that appears among
new matelasses, evening satins and
soft bengalines. Aureole is an eX-
tremely delicate and lovely color; SO
also are the shades of chanterelle anu
daffodil and among chiffons and even
ing satins a new golden green is very
popular with artistic French dress
makers.
The imitation jewels which dazzled
the eyes a year ago will not be USED
in any such lavish way on toilets the
coming season, although wholly new
devices of the most elaborate nature IN
these jeweled effects still tempt the
purchaser. For Venetian and other
handsome cloth gowns are silk cord
and Mignardise gimps with threads OF
gold or bronze, with buttons to match.
But if mock-g gem trimmings are being
somewhat overlooked, jet is not, ana
the importation this season is nj
study for an artist. There are also
passementeries in which chenille with
fine cut-jet sequins occur, the devices,
in arabesque patterns, being shaped III
diminuendo shapes for skirt seams
bretelles, sleeve-length pieces, revers
decorations and jacket fronts Of varl-
Gus prevailing shapes.
The tendency most evident IN all that
fashion offers is still toward the sFelt
and clinging effects of the past season,
with, however. simpler outlines. less OF
elaborate decoration, and natural re-
action in the matter # cutting u
yards of expensive material into friils
and furbelows.
Certain tailors of taste and expeti-
ence in New York continue, iE spite cf
dresses of walking length-that ~, just
escaping the ground all around--de'
claring that there is really more grace
in a well-cut perfectly hung walking
skirt of proper length than in delnl-
trained one that must be held up cy
being awkwardly g~aspe1 in "ne hand
The prevailing habit skirt loses ali the
beauty of it's straight, fe.N ne ines
when caught up br the wearcr II iaoS
it's best. it sh0u,d lie LEFT to fall free
from the waist. c.ith none of its
breadths eleva.ed and dragged arcUn1
to the front or the skirt.
Some very pretty repred wcol fabrics
appear among autumn fabrics, that arr
considerably less expensive than th5
wool bengaleaes, aAd vii make stylisf
costumes. The greens, browns ane
blacks are particularly fine, and FOL
dainty gowns for the house are soft
pretty shades in old rose, violet, gray
fawn color. or antelope, as it is nov
called. beech and cedar brown and pat
silver blue. Persian red is another dy'
that is a shade between a damask rose
and the long-fayored dahlia red. 1t i
prettier than either magenta, peunls
or italian red and is very becoming t
either blonde or brunette. The colo
is found also among ladies' cloths ant
vicunas. The soft reps mentioned
above are of excellent width, and on
quality is repped like Bedford cord
The other is repped diagonally.
Black guipure fiounces grow in favo
for trimming silk and satin gowns 10
certain uses. and a noted Parlsial
atelier has the daring to drape then
below a narrow band Of fur on clotl
tailor costumes, while some of the mos
famous Paris milliners are trimming
fine French felt hats with the riches
Of lace, both black and white.
Besides the smart tailor costume
made with five-g -gored foundation skirts
a down-sweeping overdress quite a
long as the underskirt on the sides an'
at the back, and a close-ftting jacket
are suits showing a princesse over
dress. It's original robe-de-chamber ef
feet is obliterated by the picturesqu
additions to the bodice portion an'
sleeves.
A novel feature of the handsomes
black corded silk or costume saith
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