The record-union. [volume] (Sacramento, Calif.) 1891-1903, 1899-12-10

A stylish costume Of moss-green
ladies' cloth made up on a taffeta silk
foundation has yoke, sleeve-tops, and
extremely high Kaiser collar OF
Breitschwanz fur bordered with a band
of cut jet and chenille in lattice pat
terms. The skirt is finished with jet and
chenille trimming. The very large muff
matches the fur decoration, and the
toque is of green velvet trimmed with
brown feathers, velvet loops, a roll Of
the fur, and a compact cluster of pur-
pie violets.
The new toques are considerably
larger than former shapes They are
wider and are therefore becoming to
women with slender faces, when the
trimmings are not arranged too straight
and high. Many of the French models
are composed of exquisitely shaded
velvets; that is, there is not a single
piece of shaded velvet used, for three
separate weaves. For instance, one
handsome toque is composed of a beau
tiful trio of tints, shading from deep
prelate purple to palest Parma violet.
Another has velvet grading from lark
5acqueminot red to rose pink, with three
ostrich plumes matching the three dis
tinct shades, held by a triangle-shaped
buckle of French brilliants. A third
model shows an artistic blending Of
moss, mignonette, and stem green vel
vet, the hat being nearly covered with
standing and gracefully dropping green
plumes.
Pink in every tint and tone will be
used this winter for evening toilets of
satin matelasse, repped silk, taffeta,
plain satin Duchess, Liberty satin, I'M
der various beautiful transparent tex
tiles also of this lovely color; and for
handsome garnitures on dress toques
and bonnets, facings for velvet round
hats, and Innings for velvet or cream
white cloth capes for opera or theater
wear.
Some plain but smart-1ooking winter
costumes of cloth or cheviot for women
of moderate means who will use the
suits for general wear during the entire
season are made with a beautifully
shaped and fitted princesse back and
redingote front. The skirt beneath is
of a matching or contrasting color as is
preferred. Some of these gowns have
with braid or stitching and tailor but
tons, and often there is a guimpe Russo
inserted in the rounded opening about
the neck. For slender figures, how
ever, most of these new garments are
made with trim-looking but seamless,
dartless front, slightly dropped, and
turned back over a vest of braided
cloth or with passementerie Stimulating
hT-Qi dirasr oil If
plated silk framed with velvet revers
that reach from the turn-down collar
to the waist. The sleeves are close-coat
shapes, and most of the models show
the skirt still made with slight dup at
the back.
Just as there are a surprising variety
of fur muffs, huge, medium, and in
small drum styles, so also are there
great number of fur wraps of different
styles, from the rare and costly Per-
sian lamb, otter. and other fur New
markets and redingotes, tc the still
fashionable Elton jackets of mink, sable.
sealskin, etc. There are, besides, many
varieties in capes, beginning with the
fanciful ''pen-wiper" pelerine with its
tie of fur ruff1es and long stole ends, to
or sealskin lined with white satin or
pink matelasse and finished with
very large spreading hood bordered
with a band of ermine. The real Per-
sian lamb, the beautiful and most last
ing of all rich furs, the otter. and the
cinnamon bear are accounted the most
fashionable Of all the furs of the win
ter. The most expensive garments that
are set forth are the complete princesse
dresses of fur, lined with nothing but
a firm but pliable satin lining.
The plaid golf cape. in modified col
orings, is now utilized in many differ
ent ways-for travelling and morning
walks, for shopping, driving and for a
comfortable and convenient wrap to
wear to the theater; when in the lobby