davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-09-30
Flounced Petticoats.

Last year the fashion preferred for pet
ticoats was an plated founce
wider behind than in front. This hounce
was bordered with chicory ruche which
gave it very pretty effect, and to hide the
junction of the fiounce and the skirt SINH
lar ruche was sewed on the seam which
joined them.
This form is still frequently adopted,
doubtless because it is graceful, practical,
and requires no other trimming, but 1t has
the inconvenience Of supporting the skirt
too much to suit the present fashion.
A simple means of remedy!ng this defect
is to make the accordion-pla led founce not
of taffeta but of point esprit tule. liberty
gauze or any light and soft material Las,
instead of the cnicory ruche round the bot
tom, three comet ribbons slightly gathered,
or small ruches of ribbons or mousseiine de
sole are used. A new and charming trim
ming Is made by passing colored trim
ming through the hem.
Sometimes, instead of wide gathered
flounce the bottom OF the retticoat is TRIM
med with three narrow fiounceS OF point
u esprit tulle, edged with ribbon OF some
color. This idea can be utilized In the case
of a simple and pretty petticoat of linen or
nainsook. with muslin hounces. The rib
bons passed through the hem are, of
course, taken out when the pett1coat is
washed Muslin embroidered with small
spots in feather stitch would be even pref
tier.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-09-30
initiated in this country, but is not custom
airy here.
Write Out All Figures.

initiated in this country, but Is not custom
airy here.
Write Out All Figures.
The date in all social notes is placed
at the end instead Of the beginning, and
1t is now better to write it out instead Of
using figures. Both are perfectly correct.
but it is decided affectation to spell out
the date of the month and year across the
page. 1t is permitted. and often with happy
effect, to begin a note without set adj
dress, as Shall we say o'clock, my dear
Mrs. Jones. for our driver"
A written invitation presupposes infor-
mality. The day is past for 'preSenting
ones compliments or writing invitations
in the third person. Naturalness and SIM
plicity form the keynote of social CORES
pondence today.
"A note of invitation to dinner says:
My dear Mrs. Jones-It will give my hus-
band and myself much pleasure If You and
Mr.. Jones will dine with us very informally
on Friday, October the First, at half after
seven o'clock.
that evening. Faithfully yours,
ALICE WEST MARTIN.
September the twenty-fifth.
The most important and most neglected
rule in giving a written invitation Is to be
explicit. Do not ask a friend up for a visit
al your country house. Ask her or him to
spend a week with you, or two, etc. IL
there is to be a house party, make the fact
but one can say that some friends from
will be there. or, if mutual acquaint-
ances, their names; at least a few of the
names Of the other guests may be mem
toned. Do not be afraid of being too def
mite in extending an invitation. Nothing
is more embarrassing than to be invited to
one knows not what or for how long.
An Informal Reply.
Replies take the same tone as that OF
the invitation. Mrs. Jones replies to Mrs.
Martins invitation to dinner:
My dear Mrs. Martin--It gives Mr.. Jones
and myself much pleasure to be able to &C
cept your kind invitation for dinner on
Friday October the First, at half after
seven o'clock
Thank you for your kind thought of me-
Sincerely yours,
ELIZABETH H. JONES.
The ''bread-and-b utter' note, as 1t is
commonly known, is one of those duties
which is too often understood only to be
neglected A brief note of thanks is al
ways due those of whose hospitality one
has been partaker. The wording OF such
notes varies, CT course.
busy woman who had been guest at a
picturesque country place, wrote:
My dear Miss Burk-The spell of Mon
mouth is still upon me, and 1t Is dlmcult 10
return to the matter of ordinary existence
after the delightful days spent with you.
l shall always keep most happy memory
of that time and of your kind hospitality
Please remember me kindly to your SIS
ter. and believe me, faithfully, yours,
MARGARET l.. STONE.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-09-30

page. When the address Is used instead 1t
is engraved in block Roman type in
Both address and monogram are OCCASION
ally. but not generally. used. The fashion
Of having ones initials in Roman letters
in the left corner has almost entirely given
place to the monogram. Delicate colors-
gold. silver and blue-are most in favor.
When illuminated, metallic shades are en-
ployed, with pretty effect, as metallic blue
or green letters on a bronze background.
Seldom are more than two colors used. The
latest fancy in crests is for raised back
ground which gives the appearance of en-
background of turquoise blue.
In mourning paper the width of the bor-
der Is from one-eighth to one-half of an
inch. Three-eighths of an inch Ia that
which is most generally used and approved
for the deepest mourning. and one-half of
this width for lighter mourning. In some
countries. as In England and France an ex-
tremely wide border is used on mourning
stationery, and this fashion 10 occasionally
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-09-30

ultima Thule Of extreme has been reach
ed in the one-button gloves that made
to wear with the fashionable long sleeves
of the hour. While the number of but
tons upon the gloves decreases, there is
no sign that the gloviers are considering
the question of lowering the price of gloves
1t is the fashion to have handsome
paintings to adorn the silk facings of
ones coat reverS and collar Flowers
are the designs chosen. and if beneath
them one can have outlined the name
of some celebrated artist so much the
better Hand painted ball gowns and hand
painted hat crowns are other forms which
the fad has taken.
The sack coat is seen in greater variety
than ever; there seems to be. little question
that II Will be the coat of the winter. For
elderly women and for carriage wear the
coat IS made in long redfngote style. reach
ing to the hem of the skirt, and supplied
with little extra length behind 1t is
often not only loose in front, but cut away
from the figure in the back. though moth
ing but the most distinguished skill on the
part Of the cutter and filter can save it
from absolute uncouthness of appearance
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-09-30

collins prepared for their reception. Gar
niSh with WatercreSS.
That wholesome nursery favorite. Brown
Betty may be varied occasionally by sub
shutting peaches for apples. Put a layer
of buttered crumbs in the bottom of the
pudding dish. which should also be well
buttered, and cover with a layer of peach
quarters, sprinkled with granuated sugar.
Continue with the crumbs, peaches and
sugar until the dish is full, having the
crumbs on top. Bake half an hour in a
moderate oven and serve with sweetened
cream.
A saddle of venison is the best for roast
ing. Lard 1t with strips of firm, fat pork,
salt and pepper and dredge with flour.
Roast in hot oven, basting frequently.
Gourmets assert that caret used in basting
ADDS to its flavor. Nenison should be serv-
ed rare and very hot.
A pretty concet for chldrens parties
Is sponge cake baskets, which may hold
peaches and cream or jelly, if preferred
The cakes are baked in deep round gem
pans. When cold the centers are cut out
with sharp knife, leaving a half-inch
roll of the cake. This is frosted outside and
the rim decorated with tiny candles or
SuSared almonds.
AT the linen stores Russian goods are
among the novelties much admired Side
board or bureau scarfs show wide borders
OF drawn work with geometrical patterns
picked out in red, black and green The
drawn work is done in checkerboard
squares and the threads are covered with
red or back to produce the pattern.
An excellent cucumber wash for the COM
pleXion is made by heating the juice of
fresh cucumbers to the boiling point. skim
ming and bottling. a teaspoonful of this
Juice added to two tablespoonfuls of water
should be applied to the face night and
morning. letting it dry on.
To clean iron sinks rub well with a cloth
wet IN Kerosene oil. After using the oil
WASH thoroughly with hot, soapy water.
Ice plates nodded for the purpose are
now frequently used in serving little neck
clans. ~
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-09-30
Driving Wraps.

Very light colors are EMPLOYED for
these. and nothing is SO fashionable as
the exact reproduction of the banana tint
lavender, grays, delicate blues and lava
blues all serve for sack coats. canes and
the long driving coats, but, after all. moth
ing is 50 la mode as pure white cloth.
There are many varieties of canes which
are made to throw on as required. Some
fit the shoulders closely and flow ont in
folds below, but are shorter in from thar
at the back. The more expensive are trim.
med with appliques Of a contrasting ma
terialCsatin or MORE or velvet. II this IL
bold, large pattern, 1t shows best fas-
tened at the side.
Such wraps are generally lined with white
satin, but they have colored frillings in
side, in harmony with the exterior. and
any collar that Is upright is trimmed with
a great deal of lace,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-09-30
collar of the overdress were of the plair
zibeline.
Graceful Princess Models.

Graceful Princess Models.
Nothing has been more graceful this sum-
mer than the princess overdresses, or simu-
lated princess effects, with an underskirt Of
another color or Of different shade of the
same color. White underskirts, which hung
quite full and We're very long, have had
over them princess or polonase dresses
which were cut round or pointed and show
ed the underskirt, either very much or very
little, according to the way in which their
Wearer had them cut. This accounts for
the two weaves in plaids and other mate
rails. We are to have plain skirts and
dotted oVerdreSSeS, or We are to have plaid
skirts and plain OVerdreSSeS, but whichever
We have it is plain to be seen that Dame
fashlon Is froWning on severe effects,
cept in walking dresses for general utility
wear. If you are to have anyt hing very
pretty study the double skirts, and have
any one of them which takes your fancy
except the one which is cut very short in
the back and very long in the front. There
never was anything much worse or less
graceful than this CUT land it is to be hoped
1t Will disappear with the coming autumn.
stormy Day Wear.
Every one who is not having a suit of the
double-faced material made for on
the links is having it made for wear on
stormy days in winter Few and far be-
tween nowadays are the women who do
not keep their engagements, be the weather
what it may, and a golf skirt is great
boon on stormy days. Whether for rainy
days or for golf the skirts are made with
the buttons each side of the front
breadth, and if one wishes the jacket may
be a pea jacket of different color from
the skirt or one may have a golf cape of
the same material made, and the plaid eff
feet on the wrong side of the cloth will
show in the hood.
In the combinations of silk and wool
which are always known as the novelty
goods, there seems to be little change from
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-09-30

last fall. There are some beautiful weaves
of brown and blue grounds with raised
black oak leaves running over them; and
there are the usual red and black change
able effects in silk and wool In buying
material for reception or afternoon gowns
this winter it Will pay to take look at
all of these materials For We are to have
much lace and embroidery, and no cloth
can be as harmonious with beautiful lace
as are these soft, rich weaves in silk and
WOOL. MABEL BOYD
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-09-30
From the New York Herald.


Proper and constant care Of the hair is
the most essential duty Of the woman who
would be well groomed. The attention
which is given by up-to-date women now
to their tresses is one which requires time
and patience, but no woman begrudges the
time. money or labor expended on the
proper care of her hair. be it dark or light
The woman with light hair should al
ways when possible dry her hair in the
bright sunshine. All last winter, from a
back window, sight was presented in a
certain neighborhood about twice month
which was source Of great amusement to
the residents. A girl with beautiful head
OF golden brown hair, after washing it,
used to sit In the window. If in winter,
cIose 10 tne glass. and let the sun stream in
on her loosehed tresses. After the weather
got warmer she used to cover the window
siil with pillows. and. resting her head on
them. let her hair hang out OF the window.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-09-30
Some Difference.
From the Chicago News.

from the Chicago News.
II am wiling to do almost anything for
amusement" painted the portly member of
the Tourists Club, who had dragged him
self half way up the mountain side and
stopped to rest, but this is little too
MUCH
This isn't amusement explained one
of the other members of the club. This Is
sport.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-09-30

$ a new
n the
here Of a.e be
desire the hoens pink
the facew
the of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-09-30

mats Of palm leaf, a tiny stove of red clay,
over which her pot of chocolate may be
boiled, four or five pots, a broom Of twigs
with curved handle low wooden tub,
chocolate mudd1er to keep the chocolate
from burning, a loom for her weaving, a
splint hammock to hold the baby in. and
two or three baskets and stools of wicker
work complete the list of essential furnish
ings. Outside the bamboo hut-whtch
stands on spindling legs like farmers
corncrib-:here are usually tiny garden of
luxuriant gourds and fiourishing castor
beans, a banana tree and a sew rowing
fowls. The Filipino women like the men,
can put in a large amount of time simply
existing. The women are never expected
to do hard out-of-door work, the men in
many instances even doing the work that
is usually given over to the women. After
they have been busy all day in the fields
they are quite willing to come home and
pound the rice for the women to cook for
supper. The women are exceptionally
clever with their fingers and weave and
embroider the most delicate fabrics.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-09-30

An excellent shore way Of cooking the
striped sea bass, which are now both cheap
and plentiful, is boiling it in clam juice
The fish is cut in slices. laid in the stra1ner
of a fish boiler and placed in the kettle
Over it is poured sufficient water and clam
juice to cover, with two or three slices of
lemon. a sprig of parsley and bay leaf
for seasoning. Boil gently until the fish
flakes, remove carefully to hot platter
and garnish with lemon and parsley. The
clam juice can be procured at any good
fish market. or obtained by opening few
CLAIMS especially for the purpose.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-09-30

Canapes for the service of small birds
are prepared as follows: Cut slices of
bread two inches thick trimming off the
crusts. Cut out a little cavity in the CEN
ter of the slice, reaching from end to end.
and wide enough to hold the bird. Spread
the canapes with butter and set them in a
tin plate in the oven to brown. When the
birds cooked arrange the canapes on a
not platter and lay the birds in the fair
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-09-30

Venison steak, hunters style" is pre-
pared as follows: Season the steaks with
salt and pepper and pinch of nutmeg, and
let them lie a plate containing some
sweet olive oil for thirty minutes. turning
them often. Broil the steaks for five min
utes over brisk, clear fire, and put them
hot platter. Serve with maitre dhotel
butter and watercresS or a dressing made
by putting into a saucepan three apples
sliced thin and a half pint of port wine.
Add half glass of currant jelly and lit
tie cayenne pepper, and strain over the
steaks.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-09-30

Housekeeping among the Filipinos is a
simple matter, reducing the housewives
cares to the minimum. A few braided
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-09-30
Many Buttoned Gloves.

ed gloves. long not in fashion, can
not be much longer out Of vogue, for the
The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1899-08-18
GUERIN STILL
DEFIES POLICE
Another Attempt to Mediate Between
Him and the Government Has
FaiIed-Printers Arrested.

PARIS. Aug. 1.-THE president of anti
Semitic League. NJ. Guerin is stin hold
Ing out at the headquarters Of the
League. where he barricaded himself
and dehed arrest on Saturday last when
an attempt was made % arrest him.
Eight OF his type-setters came out OF
the harricade to-day and surrendered
themselves 10 the authorities.
Another attempt maze by N. Lasles TO
mediate between NJ. Guerin and the gov
ernment has failed.
The Guern situation early this after
noon remained the same. Barricddes
We're erected az both extremities Of the
Rue Chambrol. and the police We're con-
stantly engaged in repulsing crowds NJ.
Guerin frequently appeared at a window,
earnestly regarding the approaches, as
though expecting rescue.
A hand OF anti-Guerin demonstrators
was followed and roughly handled by a
band OF anti-Scmites whose enthusiasm
for Guerin is becoming so fanatical that
they are making list of all who dare 10
insult him. The latter's lives are consid
cred to be endangered.
NJ Lasies anti-Semite. has consulted
with his colleagues OF the National De
fence Group, at the Palais Bourbon. and
has decided 10 send a circular 10 All
deputies asking them 20 Join in a de-
mand for the reopening Of the Chamber
Of Deputies.
According TO the Figaro the government
has decided not 20 use force. but 10 wait
until ~ Gueria issues forth. .
The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1899-08-18

Ten Additional Regiments of Infantry
to Be Organized for Service
in the Philippines.

WASHINGTON L. c.. August T-An
order has been issued directing that ten
additional resimenJs 0f infantry volunteers
bo organized for service I'm the Philip
pines.
The regiments viii De numbered from
thirty eight 90 f0rty-seven and Will Dee
organized at The following places On The
order named.
Fort saeliing MINI: Fort Crook. Neb.;
Fort Riley Kan; Camp Meade. Pa,
Fort Niagara, r. " Fort LeaVenwor.h,
Kan, jefferson Barracks. No.; South
Farmineham Mass. Camp Meade Pa.
10 ls seen frOn tO-day's orders that The
new rt simcrts lre 10 be- mainly recruited
IN New EDe.and and tho Middle and
central Western States. kansas and
Pennsylvania NAVE apparently been so-
Ieeted MS the best field for recruits. IL Is
said that no spec I'D effort ls CD D.. made
10 secure recruits m The Sou hern states
This is due, 81 IS said 90 the experience
Of the officers wh. operated in that quar-
ter for recruits 10! the ten v0lurteer regi
ments just now being organized. The
only places whore difficulty was expert
enced IN securing men was in Gc0rsia
and Alabama. the Car0iinls and the Guf
states and the two Northwestern Pacific
States.
NEARLY THE LIMIT.
To-day's action will add 1900 men 10
the enlisted strength of the army and in
crelses the total strength Of the army %
e5.0i5 men. The total number OF v0lun-
teers called into service is 30l7 men, be-
ing only 1886 men shOr. OF the total au-
thOrized volunteer establishment ot 5000.
IL ls stated dt The Department that he
nlnhcr OF volunteers already called into
service is regarded as amply sufficient 70
meet an possible needs OF the army and
that there IS no possibility that the re-
naming fSg3 volunteers viii be called.
Yesterdays recruiting OF the volunteer
army amounted 10 2S9 men. making the
total recruitment % date iii22. or 1852
in excess OF the number required 70 CON-
plete the ten regiments organized under
the orders OF July lst. All OF the regi-
merits have received their full quota eN-
cent the Thirty-frst at Fort Mcpherson
and Thirty-nfth al Vancouver Barracks
These wll be iilled by the use OF the
overflow from the successful regiments.
The remainder OF the excess Will he used
in filing the volunteer regiments being
slowly Organized In the Philippines, where
about 500 men are short.
The colonels and Observation-Disclosures OF
fContinued on Second Page.
The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1899-08-18
Charged with Forgery.

SAVANNAH, GA. August il-C. p.
Miley. "a Georgia officer and a deputy ac-
companying him. sent from Georgia 20
Denmark. s. g.. with requls.tiln papers
Tor O.. " NJ. Willoms. an alleged refugee,
from justice. were to-day required to give
bond for appearance before the superior
Court at that place on the charge of
forging the name Of the late Governor.
Eicrbec 10 rcqusili0n papers Tor WIZ
lams During Governor Ellerbee's last
illness the business of his oMce was
transacted iy Dds secretary who had
power OF attorney and the signature was
by him. The sentiment at Denmark was
against the Georgia officers and they
were held on the charge Of forgery.
The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1899-08-18
NORFOLK FLOODED.
Winds Cause an Unusually High Tide.
Heavy Rainfall.


NORFOLK. VA. August l7.-special.-
The most severe storm which has visited
this section in years is raging here. The
wind, high this morning as yesterday.
blew gale this afternoon. which for
hours at Cape Henry sustained a velocity
Of sixty-eight miles an hour. In the city
the wind blew at a forty-two mile rate.
and was accompanied by rain. which fell
all day almost without intermission.
No steamer sailed from this port to-
night with the single exception of the
New York. Philadelphia and Norfolk rail
ways transfer boat. which sailed across
Chesapeake Bay for Cape Charles She
u is believed will be compelled 20 re-
turn. The Washington Baltimore New
York and Boston steamers DID not leave
their piers.
The Old Dominion steamer Guyandotte.
which essayed % sail for New York this
morning. as she did yesterday was again
compelled 20 put back Two Merchants
and Miners liners however. passed out
the capes at $50 o'clock.
4 high tide inundated the iow-lying
portion Of the city this evening and in
yaded some streets.
Communication with other coast points
has been cut of since last night but
the wire to Cape Henry worked until
shortly before nightfall when II also fell
Grave fears are expressed IN the marine
district that when news comes from the
coast II viii tell OF many wrecks.
The wind. which was northeast. has at
times shifted 70 the northwest.
The worst storm recorded here occurred
here twenty years ago tomorrow. On
that occasion much havoc was wrought
and many vessels went ashore, Several
The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1899-08-18
TO NEW YORK FIRST,
Dewey Sets al Rest All Speculation as
fO His Programme.

NEW YORK. August 1l-At today
meeting of the Committee ON Plan ana
Scope Of the Dewey celebration. General
putfer6eld read "a cablceram from Ad-
rnir9l Dewey which e1ectually sets at
rest am reports that the Admiral would
nrst go 20 Washington before the cele-
braton I'm his honor in New York The
message was as follows.
"Lechorn. August 18th. ,
ITO General Butterdeld New York;
yours of August lst received. VIII.
reach the lower bay without fail Friday,
September 29ih. Ready for parade Sat
mlay morning.
(SimeO 'DEWtl.'
NICE August lit is announced that
the United states cruiser Olympia now
at Leghorn. Will arrive at Nine France
August 22d.