The Republican journal., 1899-12-28
Lisbon, the Royal City.

Tutuguese Capital is gained from a view
If is struggling and shabby back doors
pmjng down through the country by rail,
, We did-makes a tremendous mistake,
,Mch nothing can rectty but a special
r4 to the ocean and return by the river
,oute. Approached in the orthodox way,
rom the Atlantic, mine mi les up the Ia
.0s. Lees bo ah, as known to its citizens,
ank> third in beauty of situation among
Jhe cities of Europe-Naples first and
t1uStantinople second. The high, rocky
N.nks of the deep but narrow channel are
ned on both sides with Anticipated forts
aad lighthouses, from San Brugo and San
milan, at opposite ends OF the bar across
III, liver's mouth, to the mighty Tower
Belem, nine miles above, which since
rye fifteenth century has stood guard over
Ic oyal city. On either hand are gay
,9lts and bathing places Cacares, Oci-
81 Abanada, the Coney Island, Allan
., ltY and Point Comfort of Portugal;
".
upded by trees and gardens; fisher
M hamlets and fashionable suburbs.
l beyond all, the cloud capped granite
IL Of the CintIa mountains On the
bank, nine miles above the ocean
aa nst where the river broadens into a
l-ruicent lake the old city1whose
ttst name was Ulyssippo, said to have
a founded by Ulysses, of the Golden
.teye, tile Felicitas Julia of the ancient
mans, the Oshbuna of the Moslems, the
OH Of TO- day, rambles over more hills
home sat upon. rising abruptly from
water edge in the form of an amphi-
lgIe. Faced by quays andbacked by lof-
fountains, it stretches along the stream
u five miles, and struggles backward,
atheI upward, an equal distance, scat.
led among fields and gardens in the
@r The lake, or bay, or estuary, as
ud may choose to call the broadening of
fhe river, is crowded with the ships of
nations. among multitude of native
1ti.-for Portugal, with population
lI1ximating 1000, 600, has still no mean
ammerce, though in the evening of her
avs
Low shall one describe the bewildering
auety of churches and converts and cas-
Moorish, Castilian, Italian, Roman,
Hish and mongrel styles of architecture
-iheIbrilliant hues of house walls, reds,
Ties, greens, puppies and yellows, a riot
H'oT in African mosaic, yet all in per
harmony with the spirit of the place
Iocky height in the oldest part of the
old city, which still retains its early
rish name of ALBANIA. There is the
uense, many lowered royal abode,
ia, on another hill top beyond Belem,
ended for the most splendid palace in
pe, but unfinished for the lack OF
Ley, though begun generations ago.
tag dozen other residences Of capri
ns monaIchs is the Necessldades, an i'm
- tortez are held, And then the null
Tide Of churches-the great gray cathe-
N On the green slope of Castle Hill:
Church of Martyrs, erected on the
where Alfonso l. mounted the city
U~ and rescued it from the MooIs. the
l.lue Church do Coracao do Jesus, Oh
Hill Of the STAR" the handsome
GeLes of Santa Englacia and San Ro-
g scores .of massive converts and mon
nies that crown the hills like mediae.
toruesses, as in truth they were in
pies long past; and dominating all, the
-.5sT, square, triple battlemented sentry
Wei Of Belem.
You are landed in front of one of the
-9est and handsomest parks in Portugal
-l4e praca do Commerce., which is open
lac river on the south, and surrounded
he other three sides by spacious ar
es, behind which are Government Of
and the custom house. In the CEN
Of the square stands a fine bronze sta
pe Of King Joao l., and at the middle of
.e north side an imposing triumphal
arch marks the beginning of the city's
Ancipal street. Nearly century and
af ago, I'm 1155), Lisbon was benefited
an appalling calamity-an earthquake
bat shook down two-tbirds of the city
and buried sixty thousand people be-
heath the ruins-a blessing in terrible
-lse, like the great contlagration which
Iesulted in the building of new Chicago.
HE portion that escaped the earthquake
emains as in the dawn of history, with
ark, narrow and tortuous alleys, whose
Ferhanging caves and crumbling balloon
IL, almost touch overhead, but the recon
Aucted section has wide, straight we'll
@ved streets, lighted by gas and lined
with many stored buildings. Though
'Ae population of Lisbon is a little less
nan $50, 900, every house seems literally
warming with inmates and you marvel
the size of Portuguese families, until
Jou learn that each tall building is divid-
I'd INTO flats, for the accommodation of
eVeral families. While the patriarchal
#Stem prevails, as in many parts of Eu-
@pe-the sons and daughters of success
N7p generations marryinp and remairinn