The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1899-10-30
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cord which passed round the neck OF the
wearer.
Leopard skin was the favorite fur with
the beaux of those days. Toward the
end of the seventeenth century fur went
out of fashion, bright colored stuffs be-
ing used in its place, though sometimes
white skins dyed pink, blue or green were
worn. Toward the close of the eighteenth
century it again became the thing for
fashionable men to use enormous fur
muffs. England this time leading the way
with the silly fashion, though the Cont
nent soon followed.
For the wedding gown of widows comes
a handsome pale pearl gray damask
/ figured with white, the pattern being
either a fable or grosgrain weave on a
satin ground, often so delicate that II
resembles painting more than the work
isof a dull machine.
The trains are getting longer and longer,
and vet the upper part at the waist and
hips must be sheath-htted, 50 that reaEy
the cutting Of such a gown is a work OF
art. Fashion still demands the clinging
effect. says "Toilettes.s and consequently
all stiffening is tabooed in the majority
of cases. Hence it is not an easy matter
to carry such a train to advantage; the
movements must be slow and stately, or
the unstiffened train will very soon pre-
sent an ~unsightly, twisted mass devoid OF
all dignity.
The brides mother has a long list OIL
materials and eolors from which to choose
her eown. but of course the goods must be
heavy and rich. preferably damask, satin,
- srm =, aoIarn3 p0un of main
material yelled with black tulle. The I'M
derdress may vary in color, according TO
the age and figure. and gray, corn-color,
lavender, all the different shades OF per-
yenche and the new pastelle tints are very
fashionable. OF course, the train is an
important adjunct.
Fortunately the tunic has not yet iala
its hand on the wedding gown, although
1t IS marching on trlumphantly. But ever
here concessions are made to the tun1c In
the trimming which is often of handsome
lace and stimulates a tunic only on the
front. h scorsage is trimmed simply out
with elegant materials, also perfectly rlch
lace. but around the neck a fluffy, airy Ell
feet is liked. The wells are of illusion with
a hem about three inches wide Lace APP
pliqpe or embroidery are not permitted.
Among the dressy novelties of the sea-
son is an sssevening jacket which covers
the hips; it is made of rich black satin,
carefully fitted to the shape. A length OF
handsome guipure lace is laid over the
shoulders. forming an open collar; it con-
tfnues over the shoulders down to the
bust line. where 1t is rounded off, and
edged with narrow 5etted trimming. The
Jacket has an open 'front.', which hangs
straight down. The fronts are turned
back for three inches and trimmed with
four rows of the jetted trimming, and
finished with six dainty rosettes. These
are spaced, three on each side, but not at
even intervals. Two are placed at the end
of the collar at the bust line. two just
below the waist line and two at the bot
tom of the jacket The r~osettes are OF
shirred or gathered lace, each one being
1 finished with a brilliant jetted eye for a
centre. The jacket has a soft, full front
| of old rose silk, gathered at the throat
| and waist. A lace bow, with sparkling
| buckle under the chin, and standing satin
collar, overland with guipure, comprise
the4neck dressing. The long sleeve is
closefitting; a row Of jetted trimming
runs the entire length. At the shoulder
the sleeve is slit up and down, and turned
back on itself to show facing of old-rose
silk. The jetted trimming edges the
turnedsback shoulder.
80
An apple-green brocaded silk, with small
white flowers patterned over narrow
stripes of black satin. is used for the skirt
| Of a handsome reception dress. The
81 1870 -,,.,
away from the middle of the front
breadth in downward-pointing diagonal
lines toward the bottom of the train. A
ruching of narrow black lace is applied
in zigzags as trimming from the hem, half
way to the knee, n down again. This
looks as much like overdrapery as the
current mode prescribes. Over this skirt
is worn a bodice of apple green miroir
velvet, deHciously tender in color. with
trimmings or black net, embroidered with
green and gold beading. The bodice opens
slightly to one side. The sleeves are of
the green velvet, shfrred on a close-ft-
ting lining. The collar is of velvet, and
is guiltless of embroidery or beading.
80
The velvet hat is by all odds the most
fashionable for this season, but is so
beautifully and fancifuiiy made that it
loses the clumsy look we associate with
anything of velvet. says the ''Woman's
Home Companion" Folds an inch in
width. but overlapping each other so as
to look only half their width, are made
Of bias velvet and form the entire hat.
These folds are applied the same as straw
braid, except each row is put on in one
piece instead of making the rows run
from one continuous piece.
80
There is a novelty in fur boas, or these
as well deserve 10 be called chiffon boas,
being made as much Of the one as of the
other. Sable round the neck. they are
tied in a bow at the back with chiffon
of the same color, bearing a long silken
fringe; then from either side of the front
falls again a scarf Of the chiffon with a
siiken fringe, caught below the knees
with a sable head or tail. the chiffon
failing again to the hem with a silken
fringe. This sable colored chiffon also
OF the sable toque. when 1t is again bor-
dered with a siiken fringe. without which
no garment seems to be complete in the
eyes of the Partisan.
There is a movement on foot to again
have a fad for wearing the hair parted in