Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-06-24

sometimes enough can be taken out of the
too full skirt to make the new breadths in
the back where the waist usually fades
most.
Waists Have Changed Little.
Fortunately these round waists require
little change to make them quite the glass
of fashion. A slight blouse is still very
much a feature of gowns which are not
fitted and be ned and the French back
seems tc have taken a firmer hold than
ever of popular fancy. AS most waists for
some years past have been made to wear
with ribbon collars, the necks will be quite
right. and the only difference is that this
year either one has a very great deal of
ribbon for bow, enough to go around the
quite to the waist line, one has no bow
at all and the ribbon goes twice around
the neck and ends in tight little knot
which may be kept in place with pin or
may be fastened by the collar clasps which
are prevalent and convenient.
OF course, if a change is necessary in the
shoulders or neck of a gown, the best way
is to cut off the top, make little ruffies or
straps of the material over the shoulder, or
straps of velvet or ribbon. and wear it with
white yoke and sleeves.
sleeves Must BE Altered.
All sleeves. of course, have to be altered
beginning with shirt waist sleeves and 60
which one hopes to make available. For
the elbow. AS a rule, all sleeves made for
some years past have been tight nearly
so below the elbow. But they must be
taken out of the waist, ripped nearly or
quite to the elbow in the underarm seam,
and then taken up very much until they
come near the arm. Then a great piece
must be cut off at the top and the re-
mainder reshirred and put back in place.
after various trials and tribulations to
test its suitability in its new shape.
The Bingham frock in the Illustration was
too pretty to throw away. and quite too
short for looks and too narrow across the
shoulders for utility, as it had grown SO
much smaller with coating after coating
of starch. So two fiounces were added to
the skirt of leftover goods on hand. For
tunately it had not faded at all and the
new goods matched perfectly. Then a
guimpe of white tucking was made and put
in place of the upper part of the bodice
while pieces of the bingham were put on
to give the effect of holding the waist in
place. The sleeves were made very small
and cut off at the top to show tucking like
that forming the guimpe. And with the
addition of this white guiInpe and the dou-
Bile ruffie this little frock is much prettier
that il was last year.
Silk and ChaIli. Combination.
The other Illustration is of a clever COM
bination of a navy blue China silk and
challis. The bodice of the China silk was
too much worn to be used, while the skirt
of the challis had become much soiled. The
skirt of the China silk was pieced down at
the top TO make it long enough. while the
upper part of the challis skirt was taken to
make the overskirt effect The challis waist
required very little alteration and had only
added to it cuffs of the China silk and belt
and tie ends of il to complete the harmony
This combination of two gowns is very sat
fsfactory when the colors harmonic and
II behooves women to turn over we'll their
gowns before giving them away to see If
they cannot combine two, if making one
over alone is quite out of the question.
MABEL BOYD.