The record-union., 1899-01-01

Half-low necks and long transparent
Mousquetaire sleeves, much wrinkled
from shoulder to wrist-frills, appear
among many of the evening bodices
for the winter Some Of the cOrsages,
cut out slightly in the neck, have no
collar whatever, and these look very
odd and unfinished in contrast to the
elaborate and ornate Medici, Rubens
military, Marie Antoinette, Valois, and
other picturesque styles so generally
worn. These collarless waists are fin
ished about the top with circling rows
of velvet ribbon, a tiny ruche OF crimp-
ed chiffon, or a seed-pearl Vandyked
band about two inches wide, and as a
rule the sleeves are the merest caps,
with trimming matching that about the
neck, and forming also the pointed
girdle.
There is an increase in the wearing OF
fancy jewelry, even on ordinary occa-
sions, and the quainter and older the
style Of the costly trinket, the greater
it's vogue-odd brooches of bright Span
ish gold, with heavily chased or enam-
eled leaves and tiny scroll devices;
triangle-shaped gold buckles, set with
topaz or amethyst stones framed in old
paste handsomely cut and belt and
sleeve clasOs of Indian moss agates set
in fine gold filigree and diamonds. These
last named ornaments are called lucky
stones, and are supposed to bring their
owners good fortune. The backgrounds
have a mysterious opaline tint of ex-
quisite delicacy. Another fad is for the
heirloom in the shape of a marquise
ring, and if one does not happen to have
had a marquise for an ancestor, there
are obliging lapidaries who can produce
any amount of these antique heirlOoms
If one is able and willing to pay the
price set upon them
Demi-trained princesse dresses are in
great vogue These are of white or pink
India silk, Marie Antoinette satin. faiIle
in plain colors, or striped with chenille
or velvet, silk-dotted, Henrietta cloth
or drap d'ete with velvet accessories
matching the color Of the tiny dot
These gowns are new, graceful and very
becoming. They fasten at the back,
are cut out in the neck and finished
with guimpe; the sleeves reach the ell
clinging about the hips, but expand
irg into volume below the knees, where
frills and pleatings, circular fiounces
edged with ruching, and lace and net
draperies are massed with good effect.
White India cashmere and cream
tinted drap d'Alma form simple yet ele-
CANT toilets, trimmed with very narrow
satin ribbon to match gathered on one
edge, and applied to bodice, skirt and
founces in snowy arabesque designs in
applique effects, or in Grecian patterns
as borderings to panels. skirt fronts.
| ruff1es. Jacket edges. etc. Chenille
dotted tulle is a favorite drapery over
satin princesse slips, and the garnitures
are extremely full ruches Of the tulle.
edged with tiny lines or points Of the
chenille
A stylish cloth gown of one of the
handsome new shades Of red, trimmed
with serpentine bands of black braid
has cloth waist to match, which fits
very snugly at the back, and has little
short rounded basques. In front of 1t
is blouse, with wide turned-over col
lar of cream velvet. on which is an ap-
plique Of guipure lace and a narrow
edge of old silver braid. Where the col
lar turns back 1t shows a deep yoke and
high collar Of finely tucked cream tat
feta shading into pink. The popularity
OF the waist Is that it shows no seams
whatever, yet moulds the figure with
absolute perfection. The outside coat
is made in hussar style, with black silk
cord appliques on the frontsS and an
elaborate collar and revers OF SLACK
Persian lamb with muff and toque en-
suite.