The Washington weekly post., 1899-11-21
MATERIALS FOR MILLINERY.
Use of Panne as a Substitute for Velvet o
satin Antique.

From the Millinery Trade Review.
Hats covered with velvet or with panne
have sometimes brims measuring as much
as twelve or fifteen inches. that they may
De draped over in flutes or a tOrsade OF
course. the stiff interlining does not ex-
tend to the edge of the brim, and Is mere
ly sufficiently wide 10 support il when fin
ished rs an ordinary-sized hat or todue
The use Of panne is becoming very gen.
eral. especially as a substitute for velvet
or satin antique. The textile now known
by this lame is lighter and thinner than
velvet or plush, and the pile les quite
nat. II differs entirely from sealskin
plush. which was formerly called panne.
Many Of the new models owe their nov-
city TO the combination of materials Thus
the upper side Of the brim OF a hat may be
covered with saffetas or the new make of
piece felt, beginning 10 be known as feuke
satin. the under with velvet laid on plain
or in folds. while the crown IS a similar
mixture of the two. Another way OF COM
bining materials is 10 let in a piece Of fig
ured tissue into a covering OF some plain
fabric, the former vaguely reminding one
Of bow, but lying fat. or almost fat.
For this purpose figured silks of different
sorts are chosen, chimes. velvet brocaGes,
silks woven, and panEes printed Ia cash
mere designs. One rule is alIro alwayg
observed-the piece Of material laid In It's
much lighter than the covering proper OF
the shape. or at least has a light ground
Here is an instance: A sailor, otherwise
covered with golden-brown velvet. has a
piece OF white silk chine, with blue flow
ers. let Into the top OF the brirn. II +
int tad nj ha. IL
in flutes from these points to the base OF
the crown. where it is finished in a little
pouf. under which is fastened the stem o.
Il very wide couteau beDt into a circle so
as TO reach nearly round the hat. The cou-
teau Is an artificially tinted Argus with
blue eyes,
Milliners are laying In selections Of
choice bits Of brocade ard fancy s.Iks
Their adaptation TO hat trimmings il oae
or The many special characteristics Of the
present fashion. They have been pfo-
NOTED 10 the place which was. ACCORDING
10 some accounts 10 b. occupied by
hand-pSinted materials, whose ultimate
success J always questioned Hand usiui-
ing is being persisted in acre and ths-e-
but Il Is generally admitted TO be made
quate n us eject and far from worth the
trouble and expense devoted 10 n and in
almost every Instance brocades and print
In the case OF feathers hand palntfnx l.
only elective when used with much dis
cret.cn-
AS a general rule have found The high
EST class or nsilliners averse 10 couioaux
aaSfhfa Win spots and other devices n
lake white. How much superior a.. sbo@..
upon which the art OF the dyer has mere
y been exercised. either IN tiat!ag arti-
1cially oE In reproducing the natural
markings OF certain feathers, WheTa |
greater rellsf Is Eeeded velvet waters may !
DC resorted 20 with advsnrzee rrhe~s |
nay also be applied TO fancy silks 10 |
siren~then the effect OF a simple patte-n
have seen Powered ehine sflks s,o.:-d |
Win larEe velvet waters here and there. /
- LOT rSample on 'he lowered silk used l
o drape about the crown of : yioIet fsI, 1
lat The silk chosen showed Pompsdour I
'oloring. and the violet waters PROVIDED I
IN agreeable contrast &c the eenffai tint 1
Ind brought II into harmony with the felt, i