Evening star., 1899-04-01
SMART COATS AND WRAPS
One Black Outer Garment a, Necessity in a
Woman's Outfit
Short Covert Coats to BE Much Used
This Year-Eten Jackets
Here Again.
From Harper's Bazaar.


versal hard wear, it is also necessary to
provide ones self with smart cloth gown
or silk gown, as the case may be--both, if
poSsible-to wear to the numberless we'd
ding receptions that take place after
Easter. These last gowns cannot be made
SO that they are appropriate for street
wear without some jacket or wrap, but it is
hard to decide upon the best style of outer
garment. This year, like every other year,
there are no end of new styles to choose
from in the short wraps and Jackets, as
well as in those of medium length, and also
the very long coats, that can do duty both
for afternoon and evening wear. For car
riage wear it is also necessary to have
some wrap and as most women drive in an
open victoria or phaeton now, the carriage
costume is coming much more to the fore
than was formerly the case. A long coat is
not very comfortable, and a very smart
wrap that either ma tches the costume is
of black or some light color that can be
worn on all occasions must now be included
In a complete summer outfit.
Black Wraps and Capes.
One black wrap is as much a necessity
in a woman's outfit as her street gown. 1t
can be worn In the afternoon; 1t can be
worn in the evening; and, indeed, there Is
hardly time when it is not possible to
wear 1t, provided it Is made in some becom-
ing and not too elaborate fashion. There is
no end of smart black wraps this year that
are rather too elaborate for all these occa-
sions. but there is one style of cape that
Is most economical, and this is on the plan
of those worn this winter made of light
weight black cloth, somewhat in circular
shape, but with rounded fronts, fitting
closely over the shoulders, and fiaring be-
low the waist quite on the plan of the new
skirts. 1t was, so we are told, designed to
wear with the new skirts and the princesse
gowns. This cloak or cape should not be
too long. should reach a little below the
waist, and be finished with ruffle of the
same material lined with silk or satin. 1t
has high collar faced with the same silk
as the ruff1e, and ought to be lined through
out with the silk.
The French wraps are trimmed with
bands Of machine stitching in a contrast
ing color; but there great many that,
instead Of the machine stitching, have
bands of narrow black and white braid or
black and silver braid. However the ma
chine stitching did not come in until so late
that it has not been generally adopted, and
consequently is newer than the braid.
Then there are the silk, the grenadine,
net, satin and lace wraps with the jet pas
sementerie, or with the jet embroidery on
the satin. Some of these are made in the
same style as the cloth cape just described;
others are shorter and stand out more from
the shoulders-not like the, flaring little
capes of two or three years ago, for they
do not flare until quite below the shoulders
I1dSiuS lHe SleeVeS OIL lQ6 gown small
prevents the cape stanqfng out too much
across the shoulders, and in all outer gar
ments as well as in the skirts the aim is
to have the lines as long and slender as
accomplish without making an exaggerated
effect; to have things fit too, closely would
be considered extremely bad style. There is
more latitude allowed as to the amount
of lace that may be employed on the Wraps.
While as for ruff1es of chiffon their num-
per IS legion. An extremely smart wrap
that has just been brought ont and intend
ed to wear with black silk gown this
spring is made of white satin put over a
heavy black silk cut out In odd-shaped fig
ures and outlined with Jet. T. 1t is made half
circular and Is trimmed with ruffies of
black and white lace put over white satin
rune. Around the neck is ruching mada
OF black and white ostrich feathers which
| comes around to the front of the throat,
"nere tne ends OF the feathers are tied in
with black and white satin ribbon ITnder-
neath all the ruffies is full ruffle of ac-
cord1on-pleated chiffon. In the descrintion
| l. SOUNDS as though these ruffies would give
very heaVy effect, but they do not; the
lullness Is SO cleverly arranged that the
runles ran one over the other instead of
pelhg all OF just the same length.
Covert Coats and EtOn Jackets.
Inc snort covert coats are to be used as
much as ever for ordinary wear. The ma
terial OF these covert coats is always about
the same, but the shade this year is a trifie
darker than last, quite distinct from the
material and shade used in the box coats
These little coats do not fit into the figure
SO much as they did at the back, but are
almost tight fitting in front. They should
be made very carefully and have absolutely
no attempt at trimming They fasten with
a NY front and are single-breasted. Some of
them have pockets, others have not; they
are smarter without them. The sleeves are
small not absolutely tight-fitting, but large
enough to allow of dress sleeve being put
underneath. Then there are the very smart
iong coats that are most attrac tive but a
little warm for spring wear. They are
however so graceful in their lines that IT
VIII be hard to resist getting one They
are made of the lightweight cloths tan
ana gray, and even In black and dark blue,
tasten over to the left shoulder and are
hnished with a ruff1e They are very un-
becoming unless well fitted and even then
are not to be rashly attempted by women
Who are short and stout For short and
stout women there are q number of coats
this year that are unusually becoming
mere Is the three-quarter-length coat with
tne ny 1ront, tight fitting in the back and
as far as the darts in front, but with thu
straight French front, that breaks the
Width around the hips very satisfactorily.
This same style of jacket made on much
sharper lines Is one of the new models for
the spring costumes
1t Is curious how many Eton jackets are
here again. They are in such quantities
that 1t Is impossible to describe any of the
opiihS soHhs "ltuout speaking or them.
They are made not only in cloth but In
pique and wash materials, and are inn
mensely effective. They are very useful
little garments. for they can be worn with
shirt waists and false fronts. One of the
snartest things that has come over this
year Is very thin material like mohair,
supposed to be made up in this style, un-
lined, to be worn by women who find shirt
waists unbecoming. In the dark linens
(not the heavy linens but the thin ones)
the Eton jacket is a capital fashion and
the tailors are turning out most attractive
little gowns made of the materials that do
not cost much over 25 cents a yard at the
outside. They cost quite little when they
are finished, but of course that Is for the
tailors work. They are made, like cloth
gowns. In the plain skirts and Eton jack
cts. There is considerable variety, too, in
the style of the Jackets, but the difference
Is entirely In the fronts Some are made
to fasten at the throat like the officers
coats. and are finished In long points;
others are made to fastenl over double
breasted with revers, and still others have
very much the effect In front of the blazer
coats-or course, not so long. but still
reaching below the waist line. These little
jackets are really cooler than the fitted
waists. and do not need to. be lined. If
any lining is used the Very fhinnest lawn