The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1899-10-28
NEW FABRICS IN THE EAST.

New York, Oct. 24.-Moired velvet is
one Of the few fabrics we have never
seen before, and that is coming to the
front as a goods for handsome, sim
pie trained skirts to wear with fancy
theatre waists, and it comes most
aptly into play for orname entail collars,
belts, rever facings, hat folds and
ornamental waistcoats. We do see
here and there whole gowns Of it,
and one of the most attractive bridal
costumes made for an October we'd
ding was all OF white MORE velvet hung
with white silk fringes of divers
lengths.
Turning over other interesting con-
tributions of the manufacturers to
the boards of fabrics turned out this
autumn. we find a. strongly appealing
novelty under the appropriate title of
Tarc-e1-ciel, for it is a fine white cloth
so wonderfully dyed that an opalescent
rainbow stripe, now appearing, now
disappearing, like the colors in a
shot silk. runs through every width
L'are-en-cie had been put forward
especially for the makeup Of theatre
and reception gowns, while it is not a
little used for the troupeS of brides
maids now in dressmakers' hands.
Most popularity ii is garnished with
lines of clear brown fur. mink. Alaska
sable, etc, and heavy cream cluny and
Renaissance lace.
Running over a. row of covetable tot
lets at any wideawake dreSsmaker S,
the inference is clear that something
is being used to break the shoulder
lire. to relieve the flathesS of the upper
half OF the sleeve where it enters the
armhole. Many waists show ridged
tucks at the shoulder point, broad
rever collar is allowed to sweep low
over the sleeve, or a couple OF caps
give width and grace to the shoulders.
Everywhere is d oted a reprehensible
tendency to break the sleeve line with
round decoration on the upper or the
forearm. else at the elbow a little frill
runs around the arm and below it to
the waist, tucked chiffon or lace ex-
tends in a long, close cuff.
Beyond these criticisms none but
flattering comments are to be made Of
dress waists as they now reveal them
selves, and powerful as has been the
effort to coax women to accept more
decoration on their skirts, the waists
of the majority of gowns continue to
steal all the real glory and color of the
costumes. On some of them the most
intricate and coquettish little waist
coat arrangements are adopted, and
the waist of a, cloth gown Will open
its velvet-faced rever collar first to
reveal a waistcoat of soft. striped silk,
and inside this a second vest OF satin
oveTlaid with lace, upon which is
draped, through ieweled buckles a
necktie Of liberty satin. What with the
barTel-shaped buttons and the stitch
ings on the little cloth garment itself,
the waist of this pearl-gray cloth suit
reflected seven different but perfectly
accordant colors and five different
fabrics.
What fills the soul of the lover of
neck novelties with joy unconfined is
the high stiff dark velvet stock that
hooks behind but shows two rows of
glitteTing little buttons running up the
back. This is fastened about the neck |
of any gown and then a satin ribbon |
Of some pale color is slipped about the i
throat at the top of this collar, and in |!
side it. drawn to the front and tied so |
that its ends, garnished with tabs of |
the most delicate white point lace !
faSten in a bow crisp as a fresh blown |
white rose right under the chin, A
long throat and a proudly poised chin
are necessary if one would wear this /
while something not less pretty |
and original, and more comfortable, is
a collar of folded panne with two lily
petal-shaped pieces, deity wired, faced
with satin and turned back in long
points from either side
under the ears. So long are some of
these collar points that they extend
four inches out from the collar band
and then droop and touch the shoulder
seam, and are at once eccentric and be-
coming.