Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-09-30
PARIS FASHION NOTES
The Leaders Averse to Having Styles
Copied Too Soon.
ARTIST DISCUSSES new C0IFFURE
Long Buttoned Gloves Will Be
Soon in Vogue Again.
PRINCES AND APPLIQUES
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.

Special Correspondence of The Evening Star
PARIS, September 16, 1899.
The Iveliness that marks the opening Of
the fall and winter seasons Is noticeable
Owners of shops have upon their faces
lively air of expectation for those stran-
gers who are in town are such as have an
air of owning well-filled purses and being
quite able to do shopping in the Rue de la
Paix. Great is the interest displayed in
fall novelties and coy are the shopkeepers
about introducing those with whom they
are unacquainted to their best, for there is
q growing custom with enterprising trans
atlantic buyers; Il is that of leaving behind
the regular season buyer some clever rep
Iesentative whose duty it is TO remain until
late picking up the most striking of the
new fashions and transmitting descriptions
of them to their employers in America, so
that they are duplicated almost as quickly
in 9Th avenue they in the
Partisan shops. The exclusive French fash
ion makers do not like this. If rich
American buys from them, il is annoying
to the woman who has paid several hun
dred dollars for a street gown to appear
proudly upon 9Th avenue some day only to
meet woman of inferior station and funds
decked out IN a garment which is a fair
copy of he- own. There is another reaS
for French fashion leaders aversion to let
ting the best and the latest of their crea-
tons go to America in their first season.
This is because such an event will make it
impossible 10 get rid of them a
later, when the mode they represent has
its day in Paris and there is a useless
stock of goods to be got rid of Or charged
to profit and loss Fer this reason there is
an effort in Paris to keep America season
behind the Paris fashions.
Third Empire Curl Clusters
In the dressing of the hair notice that
there is return to third empire fashions
in the wearing of waves and clusters of
curls at the back. The style lends itself
agreeably TO the wearing of jewels in ,he
hair. strands IF pearl or coral looking
pretty woven and interviewer through the
tresses The arrangement IS most effect
I'VE for tall women with regular features
and graceful carriage. 1t is noticeable that
the hair at the back of the head in the
twist IS worn much tighter than it has
been, although at the sides il is plIffrd
loosely away from the head. The cunning
little fringe of soft curs that fails rs if by
accident over the brow gives a s0ftness
and piquancy that add to the charm of al
most any face OF course. now and then
one finds woman with Clyta-like brow
that can afford to scorn the disguise of a
bang OF any kind, but such foreheads are
rare Women. as rule, do not study their
own type enough.
Said an artist on the arrangement of the
hair: The trouble with most women Is
that they take UP style of dressing the
hair because ii is new, not because il is in
dividually becoming. The handsomest wo-
man often DISCUSSES her loneliness with an
unbecoming headdress. The classic knot
low On the nape of the neck, may be vast
ly becoming to some women and yet thor
oughly ugly for others. Tall women look
bad with high couture. while a mignon
beauty will gain dignity and inches by
having her hair dressed on the top of her
head. Why, skiliful hairdresser knows
how to take off years from the face of his
patron by the manner in which he puts up
her hair. Unfortunately, great artists in
hairdressing are extremely rare and as
their secrets are in most cases transmitted
from parent TO child where both follow the
profession. the secrets of the art are not
mastered by the many
Hair Ornaments.
This is 20 be the season Of highly orna-
mented coiffures, with buckles brooches
clasps. pins and ornaments of all kinds to
decorate the hair. AS jeweled ornaments
are costly and not in good taste unless they
are genuine. it Is much better to own some
simple tortoise shell combs or pins whose
authenticity cannot be impeached. The
custom of turning up the small straying
locks on the neck and holding them in
place with brooch of some sort is far
from artistic. and is device never resort
ed to by filst-ciass hairdresser. If the
tiny locks are carefully curled before the
hair is put up, and then held loosely in
place by invisible halrpins or a small round
comb. the effect is much more sa satisfactory.
" men lNt mar Is dressed nlSn on the
head a very satisfactory way of ornament
Ing it is to take d small buckle, run
through 1t a piece of ribbon a coil of
ribbon and elcircle the hair with the
strand.
All kinds of elevations are in favor for
the hair. One which Is useful where the
hair is scanty is to take the tresses in sep
arate sections, roll them on the finger to
form hollow rolls and pin them with orna-
mental pins.
where Rich and Poor Meet.
The majority of the grande monde are
. still away at the seaside or in their coun-
try chateaux. The season Will not open in
town until November, the greater number
OF the fashionables remaining out of town
through October which is likely to be
more or less warm. At this season one
hears of the usual fashionable rllgrimages
to Lourdes. Women and even men of fash
ion are to be found in the throng that
wends its way to the famous shrine of the
Virgin. They remain for several weeks.
devoting themselves to the care of the
lame. the halt and the blind who make
the pitifui journey to Lourdes hoping that
miracle will rid them of their intirm-
ity. White, aristocratic hands. on which
glitter gems that are historic in France
may be seen in the hospitals dressing the
wounds and caring for those poor pilgrims
who cannot afford paid attendant Often
they may be seen leading the poor crea-
lures TO the waters of the Piscine. sup
posed to be potent as the fountain of Be
thesda to wash away pain and disease
Men of noble birth may be noted carrying
the rude stretchers which are laid the
hopelessly lnfirm. This but goes to show
how devout Is the woman of fashion: she
OF radical religious sentiments is not at
all OF the great world of society any more.
Many Buttoned Gloves.
There is a whisper that many button
; ed gloves. so long not in fashion, can
mt he much longer out of vorna for tho