The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1899-03-20
Plead Guilty Now to Jewels and
Perfumes.
DIAMONDS STILL BARRED
ALL MEN WEAR THE "DOG.
FIGHTER" WAIsTCoAT.
Gray as Much Affected By Fashion
able Men and Women-Sharply
Creased Trousers Are Bad Form
Buckles Are Worn On High Hats
Imported Perfume the Rage.
fsnecial corresnondence.l

Lenten preference of the Well-gowned
women, it is no less popular with the
carefully habited men, who have eject
ed to wear complete calling suits Of
slate or ash-gray woods. The calling
dress, of course, consists of q long
frock coat drawn in well at the waist
line, and adopted with trousers and
waistcoat of a heavier tone Of gray.
Knickerbocker clubmen, who are adj
mittedly the best dressed of their sex
in this country, have forsworn the con-
spicuously creased trousers. Their
Wallets and tailors are learning the Lon
don method of smoothly pressing their
neither garments without displaying a
stiff line down the front or either leg.
| To call, or attend church, or drive or
walk in a, sober suit of gray, with
rather an expansive tuft of darkly pur-
pie violets in the buttonhole, and to
wear a top hot with a buckled band. is
to prove that you know in what direc-
ton the trend of male fashions is NOV
ing. The buckle on the hatband is an
almost insignificant detail. but it is a
detail you are judged by. 1t is not
broad, only as long as the inch-wide
groSgrain ribbon that encircles the base
of the tall silk crown, and 1t is covered
with a bright black enamel. Through
it, on the reft SIDE a modest fiat bow is
drawn, and this is accepted as an indi-
cation of attention to dress rather than
an ornament. Or better still, it is a
means of Identification of ones head
gear among the top hats of the COM
mon herd.
If sober, solid, solemn gray is de
rigeur in the afternoon, the gray wool
mixture adopted in the morning hours
is admirably relieved and set off by the
dog-fighter WaistcOatS that the fashion,
able men have boldly adopted. Some of
them even wear this vivid garment
with the afternoon long coat, and they
can be safely said to have superseded
the knitted wool vests that are manu-
featured by skillful sweethearts and
wives. The true dog fighter is coll
ored as variously as Joseph coat and
is made of a soft, smooth-surfaceds
very fine Scotch serge, woven in amaz-
ingly big and glazing checks or stripes
of most homogeneous choice. Inc mort
striking the combination of colors, the
more admiration and attention the
waistcoat arouses, and to add to the
rather Kaleidoscope splendor of them
they button double asted with two
rows of cleaning gold discs
JEWELS USED TO EXCESS.
All along the line of the cotillion-
growing taste for discreet ornamental
ton. and even jeweled ornaments
themselves, is cOnSpicuOuS!y apparent.
The very acme of distinguished taste
with evening toilet is to wear three
choice and perfect pearls as shirt but
tons. few years ago masculine su-
periority to the wiles of gems was sup
posed to be demonstrated by the small,
fiat. white enameled screws that were
modestly useful in the immaculate
linen fronts Now, all such men az
Elisha Dyer, the young Vanderbiltss
ETC. display pearl studs worth many
thousands of dollars. The rule is IRON
clad to the effect that all the pearls
must match exactly in size and color,
and some pink, yellow, white and even
green pearl sets inspire the women with
openly expressed envy. Correctly
dressed men mourn sublmeN with
three ash pearls in their evening shirts,
and emphasize their bereavement by
still larger pearls in their cun-hnkS.
The pearl studs are not accumulated
by the aid of any diamonds, and the
gems are held in what are commonly
known as gypsy settings. A s1zable,
pear-shaped pink pearl is the last word
in good taste for an afternoon neckue
pin, when such a pin is worn at all.
In addition to MS pearl stud the
clubman's jewel casket now boasts a
very extensive assortment OF rings.
Fashionable women go ringless until
ready for their evening toilets. FASH
ionable men wear rings all day and
plenty of them. The third and fourth
fingers of the left hand in many cases
are stiff with jeweled loops up to the
first Joints. The hand used for the
cordial grasp is for that very reason
never decorated, save, perhaps, by a
single small loop on the fourth digit.
Heretofore the beringed man gave
his attention chiefly to cats eyes, star
sapphires and such like comparatively
quiet stones; now anything cut en-
cabochan is regarded as good taste. 1t
is easy to count rubies, turquoise, en-
eraIds, opaIs and saDphires all at once
on the left hand of your next ne1ghbor
at dinner. Diamonds alone are barred,
they are still left 20 the tender merc1eS
of the hotel clerk and the boOkmaker.
Rather more exclusively smart than
ieweIed rings is a. gold hoop with a f1ne
green Egyptian scarib, or sacred carved
beetle, set swinging between Urongs.
These are difficult to procure IN perfect
size and color. especially as no mans
scarfb is seriously regarded unless it
comes from a kings tomb, and has.
history Young Henry Barley, for eX-
amDIe. wears a treasure trove, taken
from the head Wrappings around the
body of Rameses II, and Elbridge Ger
nv. ir., possesses a beautiful green
beetle. said to have once been the prop
erty of Cleopatra
NEW WATCHES AND PERFUMES.
In their newly encouraged taste for
ornament the knickerbOcller clubmen
have quite independently of the Lon
don mode, set their own fashion or
wearing their watches slung around the
neck by day. Either very strong and
very fine dull gold chain is used for
this. else a hand braided, perfectly
round black silk cord, strung with
handsome antique guards at intervals
Both methods are decorative, while IN
the evening the watch is taken from
the chain and a gold stem, three inches
long, topped by q single round magn1-
tying glass, is hooked onto the chains
end and allowed to hang free 1t serves
all the purpose of the eighteenth CEN
fury quizzing glass, and the men use
it with all the languid grace and i'm
at the opera and in the ball
rooms that women displayed while
back with their lorgnettes.
Perhaps the last concession to love
of elegance is the now wholesale adop-
ton of perfume among the dancing and
calling men. There are perfumes and
perfumes, however, and the man who
bends to ask for a dance brings a de-
licious almost evaSiVe OdOr with his
immaculate person that is strange and
to the uneducated nose. 1t
comes from Cockspur street, London, Is
the secret of a famous Derfumer who
calls it sweet mace and asks a hand
some price for the tiny bottles of clear
rose colored extract that bears no rela-
ton to any of the familiar odors, and
is especially manufactured for men.
A drop or two applied to a handker-
chies suffices for an hour or more. and
then vanishes wholly, for a perfume
that fingers having stale sweetness