The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1899-12-06
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II SllA alS dChG -~@
in the Philadelphia Inquirer" Does 1t
hang forsaken upon some peg in the dark
est corner of a closet. has it been bundled
into the lining trunk, . with all the other
odds and ends of leftover finery, or is it
still kept within reach to mock us with
fashions follies. past, present and to
Gomez
Wherever it is, the once popular silk
waist is not seen on the figure of the
woman in tip-top form.
It has been banished from the society
of the select, and for what?
French flannel, French flannel, French
flannel is the cry for. morning waists, af-
ternoon waists, luncheon waists, matinee
waists, every kind of a waist, in fact, that
can have a showing before six o'clock.
Statesmen at the flannel counters will
tell you that not in years has there been
such a craze for the stuff. Fancy prices
for fancy patterns do not balk women in
the least.
Where .silken fabrics were bought last
year. French flannel as soft as kid and as
warm as sealskin is chosen this season
One year ago the matinee girl consider
ed her costume incomplete without a
crisp taffeta or a sheeny liberty satin
waist; this winter she would scorn to sit
through the acts in anything but French
fi3nnel.
Satin and taffeta are done for. French
flannel 1t must be or the feminine heart
beneath the waists tucks and pleatings
throbs with the bitter consciousness, a
consciousness that can poison most wom-
ems contentnient, of being many months
behind the modes.
And so the pinks and blues, the violets.
the s~carlets and the pure white hannels
punctuate every congregation of women,
from a church gathering to. a matinee au-
dienre.
II am at my wits end" confesses a
popular dressmaker, "to design something
new for a fresh lot of flannel waists that
have been ordered.
you see, there's no chance of trim
ming them enough to vary them Now,
with a silk or a satin waist I could add
laces and other garnftures, but French
flannel has to be absolutely free from
I anything of that sort.
TT must be tailorish looking and yet
it must be slightly decorative. I've knife
pleated and box-pleated and tucked and
smoked and stuck on buttons big and
small until positively don't know what
quirk to give the flannel waist next.
.sThere's only one brand new trick,
she added, and thai I've stolen from a
Paris paper. It's the putting in of 'vio-
let pockets
s.There. 1 knew you would wonder over
that. Just wait a moment and I'll show
you a matinee waist that has one"
Then she brought out a creamy flannel
garment as severe as the modern young
woman prefers her clothes, and showed
me the ''vfolet pocket"
This was really G. small silt on the left
side just at the point where a girl pins
ON her ~yiolets, and II ran down into 4
long, slim pocket made Of oiled silk,
which. being light and soft. didn't bulge
out the waist at all.
.'That pocket explained the dressmak-
er. sis really an institution Women who
wear violets-and what woman doesn't at
this seassn?-complain that the stems
stain the fronts of their waists beyond
any cleansing. Where the flowers are
wrapped In tinfoil to protect the waist
they look stiff and ugly, yet II the stems
are pressed against the cloth uncovered
they are bound to leave green streaks-
Now this violet pocket you see is
meant to Mold the stems of the nosegay-
They run right down inside the waist,
can't hurt the oiled silk, are out of sight
and harms way, and there's your bunch
of violets just where it should be, only
the flowers and leaves showing no wire
bound STEMS
And to. think tina after all her yearn-
ing for practical pocket room, woman
should in the end be donated only one
frivolous tucking place for violets.
The dominant note now in dress Is
fur. There are Eton jackets composed
of broad-tail. with collar and revers OF
ermiue. with many little tails of broad
tail giving a finish to the front of the
Elton, says a Paris letter. !
Sealskin coats are cut longer back and
front than for many years past. Some
seaIskin jackets nave revers and collar OF
chinchilla.
The newest carriage wraps have fur
revers and collar. Large quaint buttons
hold the revers in place. Such wraps
are lined with pink or delicate green bro
cade. Chinchilla is a regal trimming for
carriage wraps.
Not for years has so much fur been used
in the trimming of hats. Long quilts are
ingeniously made witt fur facing either
side of the quill. Some pretty round felt
mats nave gorgeous greDe Tor trimming
with miroir velvet and a large white bird
giving the proper cachet. Fur muffs
finished with innumerable tails and good
sized head in the center, also great shaggy
muffs. with pockets surmounted by a
good-sized animals head. and marabout
collars Of many varieties.
This year sealskip is in favor above
everything. In recent years this prince
ly fur has been slightly neglected, not
w~ithstanding its dark and becoming color,
its rich, soft. velyety quality. and its
harnonizing so well with delicate com
plexions. Now that the seal is dimin-
ishing in auinbers, in fact, disappearing,
and that several laws are In operation
respecting sealing, fashion DEGREES that
sealskin is to be the leading fur. Seal
skin, moreover. is a superb fur. and goes
with every shade of hair. It makes mag
niicent jackets, boleros, stoles and
NANTES, either for stout or slim women;
it suits every one. A person inciining
to be stout will avoid garment composed
entirely of fur, and will content herself
with using il for rich trimmings or luxuri-
Gus accessories.
Sable. ermine and ehinchilla are also
in high favor. Sable and ehinchilla are Of
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