Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1899-12-30

Special Correspondence.
Lisbon. Portugal. Dec. .. 1ses.-Thc
traveller whose frat impression OF the
Portuguese capital Is gained from a
view OF It's struggling and Shabby paek
homecoming down through the coun-
try by rail. as We dId-makes tre-
mendous mistake. which nothing can
rectlfy but special trip TO the ocean
and return by the river route. APP
proached BY the orthodox way, from
the Atlantic. nine miles up the Tagus'
I.ces-bo-ah. as known TO It's citizens
ranks third In beauty OF situation
unong all cities OF Europe-Naples
first and Constantlnoplc second. Fhe
hlsh. rocky banks Of The deep but mar
row channel arc lined on both sides
with antiquatcd forts and lighthouses
from San Brugo and San Julian, ut
opposite ends Of the bar across the riv-
cr's mouth. TO the mighty Tower OF he
lem, nine miles above. which. since the
fifteenth century, has stood guard over
the royal city. on either hand are gay
resorts and bathing placcs-carcarcs,
oclras. Abanada-the Coney Island
Atlantic city and Point Comfort OF
Portugal. royal palaces ana Villas Oh
the nobility. surrounded by trees anu
gardens. iishermcn's hamlets and fash-
lonnble suburbs; and beyond nl, the
Handicapped granite range " the GIN
ira mountains. on the north bank,
nine miles above the ocean and Just
where the river broadcns into
MAGNIFICENT LAKE,
the old city-whose earliest name was
ulyHsippo. said to have been founded
By Ulysses, OF the Golden Fleece
the Feicitas Julia OF the ancient lso-
mans--the Oahbuna Of the Moslems-
the Lisbon OF tOduy-rnmblcF over more
hills than Rome sat upon rising
abruptly from tho waters edge In the
form OF an am?hltheatcr Faced by
quays and backed by lofty mountains.
Il stretches along stream four or five
miller. and struggles backward. or rath-
cr upward. an equal distance, scattered
among fields and gardens In the rear
The lake. or bay. or estuary, ms YOU
may choose to call the broadening OF
the river. In crowded with the ships OF
all nations. AMONG multitude OF
native cfaft-for Portugal. with pop
mation approximating 100000. has sun
no mean commerce. though In the even
ing OF her days. How shall one des-
cfibc the bewllderiny variety OF church
chstilian. Italian, Roman, Flemish ana
Mongrel styles OF nrchiiecturc-the brill
liant hucs OF the house walls, reds.
blues. greens. puppies and yellowH,
riot OF colors In African mosaic, yet all
In perfect harmony with the spirit OF
the place, There IL n great castle OF
soa Jorge. on Its rocky height In the
Oldest part OF the old old city. which
atiii retains It's Moorinh name OF Al
famn. There II the immense, many
lowered royal abode. Ajuda, on another
hilltop beyond Belem Intended for the
most splendid palace In Europe. but un-
finished for
LACK OF MONEY.
though begun generations ago. Among
u dozen other residents OF capricious
nionarchs II the Neceasidadca, an int
posing structure In which the meet
ingr OF the Cortez are held. And then
the multitudes Of churohcs-the great
gray cathedral. on the green slope Of
Castle Hin: the Church OF Martyrs.
= crncfrd on. the spot where Alfonso !
mounted the city walls and rescued II
from the Moors; the antique church
do coracao do Jesus, on the "Hill OF
the Star" the handsome churches OF
monasteries that crown the hills. like
medieval fortrcsses, rs In truth thoy
were times lost past; and dominating
all. the great. square. triple battle
mentcd sentry tower OF Belem.
You are landed In front OF one OF the
iargest and hnndsomest parks In Portu-
Eai-the Praca do Commerce.. which Ia
open TO the river on the south, and
surrounded on tina other three sides by
spacious arcadcs. behind which are
government ofiices and tho custom
house. In the centor Of the square
stands fine bronze statue OF King
Joao !. and Mt the middle OF the north
~ "a lttV etltt hat ta..A ~
the beginning OF the city's principal
street Nearly century and a halt
ago. Tin i7l5), Lisbon was benefited By
and appalling calamlty-an earthquake
that shook down two-thirds OF the city
and buried sixty thousand people be-
meath the ruins-a blessing IN terrible
guIse. like the great connngrntion which
resulted In the building OF new Chi
cago. The portion that escaped the
earthquake remains as In the dawn OF
history. with dark. narrow and tor.
tuous alleys, whose overhanglnC caves
and crumbiing balconies almost touch
overhead: but the reconstructed sec.
tion has wide, straight we'll paved
streets, lighted by Ras and lined with
many-storied buildings. Though tbs
population OF Lisbon is little less thar
! 10000, every house seems LITERAL,
swarming with Inmates. and you mar
vel ut the size OF Portuguese families
until you learn that each tall buildng
In divided Into flats for the accommo
dalton OF several families. While tn,
patriarchal system prevails, M In man,
parts OF Europe-the sons and daugh
tiers OF successive
GENERATIONS MARRYING
and remaining under the patcrnai root
he Portuguese nabob Is rich indoe,
gho spreads his L.ares and Penate
yer more than one suite OF apartment
the -amc floor,
As'assing under the triumphal arc
and up the wide street. you come 1
another handsome square-the Prac
do Dom Pedro Primero. In earlier DAY
the palace OF the inqulsltlon stood her
and those gloomy prisons from whlc
hundreds OF previously torture
wretcheH went forth to their auto-da
fos. One side OF Il Ia occupied by IN