The record-union. [volume] (Sacramento, Calif.) 1891-1903, 1899-12-03

pretty fabric, but a particularly taking
one included in the handsome trous-
seau of an autumn bride is made OF
amethyst velvet and heliotrope silk. 1t
is formed with deep yoke at the back.
There is a wide plat down the front,
where the waist fastens with pearl and
amethyst studs. The back of the waist
is very closely fitted, the sleeves close
coat shapes, with velvet cuffs, and the
fronts droop little at the belt
What are called "dressmakers' tailor
costumes" differ from those that are
strictly tailor-made' in being some
what more dressy and elaborate. Satin
and taffeta checks, in a number OF
handsome autumn color blendings, are
much used for shirt-waists, with match
ing reverS and collar facings on Lnese
costumes which are formed variously
of English serge, ladies' cloth, French
camel s-hair, and vicuna. Besides .--e
many novel melanges in these checks.
black and white accessories are very
noticeable among gowns worn at day
receptions. The newest are checked in
small blocks, or else a white taffeta
ground is croSs-barred in black satin,
and special cachet is impaired by the
addition of revers and collar, overlaid
with white silk passementerie or white
guipure designs en- applique, with
matching hat of velvet and lace. Black
and white toilets-including matelasse
silk, faille and satin stripes polka dotted
in black; black peau de sole heavily
barred with white, ETC.. are seen at
every notably fashionable and elegant
function of the season.
A very handsome and at the same
time economical costume in polonaise
style can be made by using for .--e
foundation skirt a gown that is partly
worn or that one has tired of. When
taken apart and thoroughly cleaned
this can be used for the underskirt
adding silk, velvet or cloth ruff1e at
the bottom This ruff1e need not be
very deep, as the polonaise will cover
nearly the whole of the underdress at
the back, revealing only a few inches
on the front and sides. The revers,
cuffs and collar of the overdress match
the ruffle on the underskirt in fabric,
or, if the polonaise is turned down in
troduced also corresponds with the ruff
f1e in kind
An English-made costume of Roman
blue vicuna, figured with claret-colored
spots, in rough weaving of lie goods,
is made en- princesse, the skirt portion
finished at the back in two graduated
box-plaits. On the waist a part of
the goods is slashed with separated
lengths drawn up over the shoulders,
to show what is apparently a glove
fitting underbodice of claret cloth, COW
cred with a complex design of broad
and narrow braiding in blue, the
sleeves to the elbow copying this style
of decoration. The dress is lined
throughout with claret taffeta 1t is
beautifully shaped and finished, but no
further trimming is used upon it, save
rows of heavy blue silk machine-stitch
ing.
New listers are made of large Eng
fish plaids, pale and deep shade of
green, reseda, and violet, fawn-color,
and Roman blue, almond. with two dis
tinct shades of brown, or three tfnts in
gray being favorite color mixtures.
Some of the models are made with three
graduated shoulder capes, others with
a spreading Directoire hood, and again
there are revers and Kaiser collar of
mink fur, but the less expensive styles
have the three capes or the collar and
revers finished like the rest of the gar
ment, with rows of machine stitching
Some of the new heavy silks for the
winter are extremely soft and pliable
and have a 1ustrous satin finish.