The times., 1899-08-20
BLACK silk TAILOR gown
This Is One Stylish Novelty Sep
tember Has in Store.
The Most Gorgeous Garments 10 BE
worn nj Autumn weddings Are Of
Grey Crepe de Chine Trimmed
With CIoudcd Pearls-Trains Grow
I'm PoPuIarity-Pretty Taffcta Hats.

New York, Aug. 19.-In ten days by all
well regulated calendars the autumn sea-
son will be officially installed Though
quite informally and none the less praeti-
caIIy, this season so far as il relates to
clothes was fully inaugurated nearly two
weeks ago: that is TO say. the active manu-
facture OF fall raiment began II began,
as every new cycle Of dress opens, with ac-
tivity in millinery. In Paris the whole
architecture of headgear, as We have
known it for the last eight months, has
been ruthIessiy demolished, and excepting
the directoire bonnet, that promises Win
its faring brim to see us through another
winter, fat, close-ftting hats are TO be the
standard of srnartness. All through the
,nid-season- before feathers and heavy felts
seem necessary or attractive, corps o.
pretty little shapes and styles VIII be mar
shaled forth most successfully.
First among the nice early things are the
round frames woven In bright brown, pow
der blue, and sharp black and white, OF
velvet. ribbon. and straw. There is, o.
course. light, strong reinforcement OF
and brim firm, and If a woman wishes to
make graceful, easy, and yet not eX
trayaeant passage from her sadly battered
and spnhurned straws and leghoTns ID
something that stands betwiXt seasons, sns
cant do better than with the above men-
toned. A crepe de chine scarf haSlns
fringed ends and an argus quill is the deco
ration for these run-abouts, as they are SO
suitably christened.
Yet another specimen Of tween season
hat is any one OF the pretty shapes con-
structed wholly OF silk. Now and then
during the spring. toques and smallish
hats of Powered taffeta, ornamented with
no end of tulle and tufts OF roses, were
noticed at gatherings OF truly modish wom-
en-, and il seemed quite natural that these
attractive novelties should develop into
tribe Of chapeaux of no slight importance
The obvious result is accomplished and
hat Of a tucked or ruched taffeta mounted
as a turhan or shady shape on a concealed
wire structure is one of the tempting IN
Vestments that pay dividends OF long wear
and exceeding becomingness. very pretty
ones seen have crowns OF smoothly lalo
silk and brims done in tucks that are so
narrow they stand up like fine cords; 9TH
ers have plain brims and low snirred
crowns and the trimming is done In rus
set leaves or wings and bows OF wired eeru
lace, their edges ali bound with quarter
inch wide rim OF silk of the same sort as
that composing the hat.
Either with or without strings the above
can be used. but the directoire without
tulle strings seems as much of an eccen-
tricity as a modern skirt minus a train.
AS matter OF fact the strings are not
themselves of tulle since that material is
too perishabie for even the richest woman.
but narrow straps OF black velvet or lace
pass under the chin and at their juncture
sh rio 10 Rf HACK
rulle is pinned
Perhaps the heartiest word that can be
said in recommendation of the little half
velvet half straw woven directcire IL that
il carries slight trimming and is not.
therefore. necessarily q costly affair. Ii
requires an exquisite touch TO balance one
at the proper angle on the head and then
10 make it fast to the hair; afterwards il
needs the very most artful maneUvring
to prevent the up-laring rim from falling
over ones nose or dropping down to the
nape OF ones neck. and a woman who
wears directoire must be prepared 70
do without her veil.
Grey has now become the accepted or
tt.odox mainstay Of ye well habited fe-
male during the entire act OF the comedy
OF clothes. On q cloud OF grey we drifteC
from the woolens and fHrs of March Il
artificial flowers and muslins of May, and
now in cloth and silk thread woods, WOO
CTEpeE ana ea$lLlCr6S, We ali IN DIVER:
tones Of grey, are moving on toward thi
heavier darker costumes. of November
The most glorious garments 10 be wOrl
10 autumn weddings are already designes
in grey crepe de chine garnished witt
grey pearl embroidery, and with such
gown q very Eat-topped turban OF grel
silk, wound with scarf Of peari-bedewe'
white chiffon, is the smart and prope
thing. No note OF color is thought wei
OF in connection with these very neutra
harmonies, and for ali stately affairs il 1
interesting to learn that trains viii b
even longer than we have ever before wor
them.
The one big surprise and gift that a
Investigation proves September has in stor
for us. is the tailormade suit of rich b ac
silk. Il has been some five years no.
since q costume wholly of this goods wa
1n fashion, but TO have a sampiuouEl
braided black failie, armure or bengaliI
tailor suit is as near the acme OF tinlel
taste as any woman can come. No specii
Gifts OF prophecy are needed for the sal
assertion that not scores. but hundreds
these suits viii be ordered for winter wea
since the honorable service to be extracte
from such costume viii be an irresistib
temptation TO the woman OF moderate II
come. as well as the one who enjoys an
pie means.
II is true. the tailors hardy take kind
TO the idea. for the handsomer a silk is, u
more difficult il is 10 mold on tailor lin,
and therefore the mere mechanical side
such a costume promises a big expens
All this taken into consideration. the W,
men viii undoubtedly order them plent
ruliy. and garnished on the collars. sleeve
lapels. and waisicoats with heavy b az
silk lace and then re-enforcing il with
skeleton overlay OF narrow black silk bra
stitched down.
In ordering a tailor suit for the autumn
whether II is 10 be OF silk. tweed melto
or camels hair. be sure TO demand Il
above mentioned trimming Ia places whel
relief from severe illness is needed for
lis the newest and most richly eHecti,
method Of decoration that the tailors kno-
IL there Is just modest sum TO be la
out on midseason refreshment OF war,
robe. 3 wise shopper viii put the large
share Of her fund in neck decoration
The soberest old gown gets q new lease ,
style and freshness by the addition of
smartly becoming iabot or collar. and
~onar's claims 10 mcdishness are has
as much on what she wears about b
neck as on her head. To a gown of Liz
Eummery character may be given q !
storing touch with an immensely ia
close collar made entirely of lace beadir
threaded with black velvet bebe ribbc
the ends of which all knot behind in
fringe Of ends and loops OF course I
lace is mounted or crinolIne silk, but il
as smart as this is a wide strap Of v,
vet well stifened. folded about the ne,
fastened IN front with a narrow. jewel
slide and finished by a sharply point
tongue Of velvet extending trihe beyo
the slide.
Hardly too many variations can
played with scarf OF white lace wou