Washington sentinel., 1899-07-15
TT 2 ~, SENTINEL
Through the Nile Cataraots.

Il =
1t was now, amid these really
dangerous rapids, when a slight
error of judgment would have
brought instant shipwreck and
probable loss Of life, that our old
reis showed that he really knew
his work after all. His lazy ex-
pressions vanished; his eye keenly
scanned the broken water round
him, as he firmly hell the tlller
and shouted his orders as to the
handling OF the sails to the two
lads. Generally with the head OF
his vessel pointing up stream and
ioresail set to give him good steer
age way, he cleverly guided the
boat, so that, we'll in hand, she
shortly drifted, stern foremost,
between the numerous dangers,
rocks always close to him on either
side, and angry whirlpools ever
and anon rising at his bows as if
with intent to throw the gayassa
off her course, and dash her on the
treaCherous needles OF rock that
lay in wait beneath the ioaming
water. Sometimes he sailed across
the river to seek the safest channel
through a rocky reef; having found
it he placed his boat in mid en-
trance of it, and then having done
all that lay in his power, he loudly
invoked the assistance Of Allah,
and left her to be swept helplesSly
down the boiling rapid, escaping
destruction by but few yards on
either hand. Sometimes when he
perceived no serious difficulties
ahead he triced up his sail to al
low the boat to drift the faster; on
the other haud, when approaching
an exceptionally dangerous bit OF
water he carried mainsail as well
as foresail, so that the vessel re-
mained stationary, the wind
pressure just cOunteracting the in
fiuence Of the current, and he was
thus enabled to scan the broken
water below lin at leisure, select
bis road, and form his plan OF
action. The old TeIs rose in my
estimation; for though, when in
safe reaches OF the river, lazy,
awkward in the handling Of his
boat, frequently running into the
bank, or grounding on a shoal
through sheer carelessness, he was
always, when put on his mettIe bY
the perils OF a cataract, the able
skipper, promptin action, possess
ing unerring judgment and an iron
nerve. When descending a cata-
raCt. il is, OF course, always we'll
to have a contrary wind, as was
the case this day. When a south
wind ombines with the torrent to
drive a vessel through these rock
sewn rapids, the most skilful reis
can have but little control over her
course, and it must be by good
luck chiefly that disaster is
avoided.
In the evening Of the same day
we came to the ruins Of an old
Roman tort, crowning a height on
the lett bank. Here the channel
is much narrowed, being hemmed
in by rocky bluffs. The Nile,
pouring through this de6le, is
dashed into a wild confusion OF
breakers, whirlpools. and shifting
eddIes. 1t was an extraordinary
and ever changing spectacle. The
water boiled and roared around
US as in a violent tide race at sea.
In the midst Of still piece Of water
a whirlpool would suddenly form;
gYTating with ever increasing
velocity, 1t would yawn wider and
wider, as if preparing to swallow
up our vessel, and then disappear
as suddenly as it had d arisen. Next.
streak OF ioaming water would
shoot kissing athWart the channel,
as If 1t were some javelin hurled at
US by the angry river spirit, strike
our vessel on bow or stern, and
whirl her round like a teetotum.
Near the banks the water was al
most still; but We found it impos
sible to creep up along them, and
so pass the central eddes, tor a
strong undertow always sucked
US out into the vortex. In this
strange place we remained for
quite an hour without making any
progress, bufeted by the steep |
waves and the whirlpools, often re-
volving dizzily, while round and
round US ever seemed to spin the
ruined Roman castle on the hill.
sometimes we contrived 10 steal
down the lower end OF this race:
but then, even if the genii of the
were playing with their |
caPtlves, up would spring some |
sudden malicious counter current |
to sweep rs back again to our |
former position. Il was lust such |
an enchanted piece OF water as one
reads of in the old fairy tales, from
which the hspless mariner can
never effect his release, once his
vessel has been drawn within the
narrow circle, Osbea, who knew
.hese narrows we'll, told US that
boats were sometimes kept tossing
about here for three days before
i--S - ! 80 "a. --ai.,