The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1899-05-07
MORRO and CABANAS
OLD CUBAN FORTIFICATI0Ns Elk
PLORED WITH NOTE BOOK
AND CAMERA
BITS OF GRUEsoME HISTORY

| "hcHe huaah heAnEs Were Shot,
Their Bodies Burned and Their
Ashes Dumped Into the Sea-Cu-
ban Children Who Wear Socks
| and Shoes, ebnt Nothing Else
Shirts Regarded as Superf1uous.
| Special Correspondence of the Globe.
HAVANA, April 2S.z-Until few weeks
ago one might as reasonably have as
pireo TO make a walking tour of the
moon as visit with a notebook and
camera to the interior of Moro and Ca
banas. Even under the new American
regime it was equally impossible in war
tmei and now nobody is admitted with
out special pass. countersigned by some
commanding officer
Last sunday 1t was my good fortune to
De one OF party which spent the day
exploring these two oldest of Spain s
Qualifications in Cuba First came the
long car ride-forty minutes from orr
SUBURBAN residence to the other side Of
the city; past Gen. Ludlow's headouar-
tiers, and Blanco's late 'PaIacio." and
the new American postoffice swarned
with eager countrymen. Past the Column
bus cathedral, where the great admiral
! no longer sleeps, from which waves of
melody We're rolling like pillows upon a
shore Past thousands Of good Catholics
mostly women, strolling Iefsurely to ma
uhs' mendicants making stock in trade
| OF their sores and infirmities: and stall
Wart Yankee sentinels patrolling the
same beats where SPANS IIl-fed bov-soI-
| o1ers YEARLY marched to and fro Past
long lines CT gaily caparisoned donkeys.
| tied head to TAIL with red, blue and VEL
| low tassels at their ears, and harness
g1tterlng with brass, trains of heavily
| laden bullock carts, each poor, natient
peast Win chain passed through his
nose and head bowed to the dust by a
"eight or wood upon his horns. Past men
ana women stunning upon guitars in
squatter homes, or sitting idly In open
doors, apparently without a care in the
world, while dirty children played around
them naked as the minute they were
born; past all the quaint and varied
street life Of this old town, which to
American eyes as oddly foreign as the
remotest corner of Europe. Spanking of
ENCLoT1ED CHILDREN
reminds me of an order, promulgated not
long ago by the government, regulating
/ nakedness in Havana's horse cars and
| omnibusses. Though both vehicles charge
| the same amount-of fare, the bug-infested
ousses have come to- be considered Sec
| oHu-claSS, beca use most generally pat
| fonlzed by the poorest who can afford to
| ride; while those some what higher in the
social scale confine themselves to the
| cars. The order above mentioned drew
| lines ct oJoc
| forbidding naked children and men with
| out shirts to enter the cars, but not de-
barring them from the buses There-
I Tore 1t is common thing to see q man
clad only in cotton trousers hat and
| SHOES, or child airfly attired in a neck
lace, perched aloft in the swaying coach.
| which holds twelve by close crowdine,
Everywhere in Cuba one sees children IN
70 1--we or SIX years of age stark naked in
the streets, often led by their parents for
promenade; and in the rural districts
they perambnlate in. a state of nature to
CONSIDERABLY later age. 1t is noticeable
that the child of ten of Well-to-do fami-
lies sometimes wears socks and shoes
Dut nothing else. American teachers nm
der the new school system find no end of
trouble with this question of clothes
sending home all whose human form dr.
vine" is not at least partially covered.
10 the surprise and Indignation of their
dren 1n-the North go bare footed in the
summer time, even ito school, the teach
ers nave gently suggested to the moth
ers that the money spent for shoes might
better be put into shirts and trousers.
but so far without avail, the shoes be-
ing considered necessary, the shirts SUI
perfuous. Arrived at the waters edge
quarter Of mile from the cathedral
door and within a stones toss OF the new
postofhce-we secured one of the
CHICKEN-GooP BOATS
that constantly ply the bay They are all
of the same antique pattern, brought
form southern Spain in some previous
century, and for dos reals cade uno go
cents each person. the scarlet-capped
catalan boatman agreed to row us across
the intervening stretch of water to the
fortress nearest the city. Moro castle.
on the further point. was intended only
for defense, while the larger and nearer
CaDanaS served also as prison for polit-
zeal offenders. The former antedates the
latter by more than half a century. but
looks much newer, because its walls of
pale gray coquina-the coral rock that
underlies the island-are today as fresh as
ever; and the American authorities have
just completed its renovation outside and
In, with lavish use of lime and white
wash. CabanasEits painted walls now
weather-stains, is-yet comparatively I'M
touched, and-happily for curiosity hunt
ers, If not for heaIth-aH it's older horrors
remain about as the Spaniards left them.
Its massive battlements, with their faded
pinks and yellows, tower straight I'D from
a deep, dry moat, unscalabIe by man or
beast and enclosing space enough for a
good-sized town. Having exhibited our
permit to the sentry, we crossed the
creaktng draw-bridge and walked I1n q
sharply sloping, winding road, paved with
small, sharp stones that bruised the fest
like peas in the shoes Of penitentes Up
and up we toiled, under the broiling sun
always within range of portfolios and
sentry-boxes, whose protrudfng guns
might easily rake the path of intrudersi
and fancy conjured up a myriad of I'M
| happy ghosts that might have passed this
| canine doloroso-homesick boy conscripts
| from Spain fighting an unwelcome cause,
and heavy-hearted prisoners who never
| returned. The view from the summit
| repays the toilsome climb-narrow, close
| ly-built city streets, criss-crossed like a
| gigantic checker board, with church
TOWERS AND PALM TREES
and the white camps of the American
troops for pawns; ~Regala, Guanabacoa,
| Vidalo, Marianoa, Jesus del Monte, and
| other handsome suburbs; the historic
! bay, crowded with shipping, in which
nearly every flag In the world Is seen but
that Of Spain; and outlining all, the
ocean. Here we9were halted by other
sentfnels and requested to stay while our
passes were sent forward to be approved
by the officer Of the day. While waiting,
we turned into g. wide, canyon-Iike pas
sage, formed by thirty-fo walls of pink
ish plaster, double row of stunted oaks
growing along the middle Tread softly