Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1899-12-30
sneelal Correspondence.

Special Correspondence.
Lisbon, Portugal, Dec. Q, lSss'-Tne
traveller whose first impression Of the
Portuguese capital is gained from
view OF It's struggling and shabby back
doors-coming down through the coun-
try by rail, as We did-makes tre-
mendous mistake, which nothing can
reetIfy but a special trip to the ocean
and return by the river route APP
preached by the orthodox way, from
the Atlantic, nine miles up the Tagus,
Lees bo-ah, as known to It's citizens
ranks third in beauty Of situation
among all cities OF Europe-Naples
first and Constantinople second. The
high, rocky banks Of the deep but mar
row channel are lined on both sides
with Anticipated forts and lighthouses
from San Brugo and San Julian, at
opposite ends Of the bar across the riy-
ers mouth, to the mighty Tower OF Be-
lem. nine miles above, which, since the
fifteenth century. has stood guard over
the royal city. On either hand are gay
resorts and bathing places-careares'
ociras, Abanada-the Coney Island
Atlantic City and Point Comfort OF
Portugal; royal palaces and villas oil
the nobility, surrounded by trees and
gardens; fishermen's hamlets and fash
lonable suburbs; and beyond all, the
cloud-clapped granite range Of the Gin
ira mountains. on the north bank,
nine miles above the ocean and just
where the river broadens into a
MAGNIFICENT LAKE,
the old city-whose earliest name was
Ulyssippo, said 10 have been founded
by Ulysses Of the Golden Fleece
the Felicitas Julia Of the ancient Ro-
mans-the Oshbuna OF the Moslems-
the Lisbon Of tOday--rambles over more
hills than Rome sat upon rising
abruptly from the waters edge In the
form OF an amghltheater Faced by
quays and backed by lofty mountains,
Il stretches along stream four or five
miles. and struggles backward, or rath-
er upward, an equal distance, scattered
among fields and gardens In the rear
The lake. or bay or estuary, as you
may choose to call the broadening OF
the river. is crowded with the ships Of
all nations among a multitude Of
native crast-for Portugal, with pop
tlation approximating 100000. has still
no mean commerce. though In the even
ing OF her days. How shall one des-
oribe the bewidering variety OF church
es and converts and castles-Moorish,
Casillian, Italian, Roman, Flemish and
Mongrel styles Of architecture-the bril-
liant hues of the house walls, reds,
blues greens, puppies and yellows, a
riot OF colors In African mosaic. yet all
in perfect harmony with the spirit Of
the place. There is great castle Of
soa Jorge, on It's rocky height in the
Oldest part OF the old, old city, which
still retains its Moorish name Of Al
fama. There Is the immense, many
lowered royal abode, Ajuda, on another
hilltop beyond Belem intended for the
most splendid palace in Europe, but un-
finished for
LACK OF MONEY,
though begun generations ago. Among !
q dozen other residents Of capriclous |
nlonarchs Is the Necessidades. an i'm |
posing structure In which the meet |
ings Of the Cortez are held. And then /,
the multitudes Of churches-the great |
gray cathedral. on the green slope OF |
Castle Hill. the Church Of Martyrs,
erected on. the spot where Alfonso ! |
mounted the city walls and rescued II |
from the Moors. the antique church |
do Coracao do Jesus, on the XIII OF |
the Star" the handsome churches OF |
monasteries that crown the hills. like |
medieval fortresses as In truth they |
were times lost past; and dominating |
all, the great, square, triple battle- |
mented sentry-tower of Belem.
You are landed In front OF one OF the |
largest and handsomest parks in Portu- |
gal-the Praca do Commerce., which Is |
open 10 the river on the south. and
surrounded on the other three sides by
spacious arcades, behind which are /
government offices and the custom |
house. In the center Of the square |
stands fine bronze statue Of King |
Joao !, and at the middle OF the north |
side an imposing triumphal arch marks |
the beginning Of che oity's principal |
street Nearly a century and a half |
ago. I'm 1776), Lisbon was benefited by |
and appalling oalamlty-an earthquake |
that shook down two-thirds OF the city |
and buried sixty thousand people be- |
meath the ruins-a blessing In terrible |
gulse like the great CONFEDERATION which |
resulted in the building OF a new Chi |
cago. The portion that escaped the !
earthquake remains as In the dawn OF |
history, with dark, narrow and tor
tuous alleys. whose overhanglnC caves |
and crumbling balconies almost touch |
overhead; but the reconstructed sec |
ton has wide, straight. we'll paved |
streets. lighted by gas and lined with |
buildings. Though the |
population OF Lisbon Is little less than |
100000, every house seems literally |
with inmates: and you mar
vel at the size Of Portuguese families. |
until you learn that each tall building |
is divided into flats, for the accommo-
dation OF several families While the |
patriarchal system prevails, as in many |
parts OF Europe-the sons and daugh-
ters Of successive
GENERATIONS MARRYING
and remaining under the paternal roof.
he Portuguese nabob Is rich indeed |
yho spreads his Lares and Penates
yer more than one suite Of apartments |
the. anne floor.
Passing under the triumphal arch |
and up the wide street. you come 10 |
another handsome sQuare-the Praco |
do Dom Pedro Primero. In earlier DAYS |
the palace Of the inquistion stood here |
and those gloomy prisons from which |
hundreds OF previously tortured |
went forth to their auto-da-
fes. One side Of Il 10 occupied by the |
Ihester Of Douna Maria 1l-an immense