The daily morning journal and courier., 1899-04-20

brilliant tobacco, dark indigo and pale
 opium of Behar. We puffed and puffed
 halting or changing now and again
 Gill the astounding sight of five white
 men in carriage together hinted that
 something unusual was afoot. A sta
 tion or two later, sure enough, ap-
 peared arches shouting "Welcome!
 and Long Live the Empress!" There
 was a concourse of servants in marone
 and gold liveres, and great array
 of dust-clothed natives. From the
 station the road was marked by green and red flags every ten yards or so, with halfuniformed native policemen
 standing attention to guard them. We were plainly there
 As we drove from the tstaton the
 crowd became every moment thicker. By the time we swung in under the
 last of the arches there was d wall of
 them-a purple or yellow urban here
 and there, but for the most part an un-
 affected peasant crowd in the labor
 stained white calico of their working days. Their demeanor was respectful
 but confident; they came very near the
 apogee of looking glad. And it was tNibClll III q liIllulE llldl WV NClN ci' se
 model estate The garden we were roll 1 ing through was without reproach for
 order and neatness; perhaps the only
 natives garden in India that is. Pres
 ently we came to the tables; l rubbed my eyes and asked if this were really l untidy India. Solid buildings, speck less cleanness, sound drainage, air everywhere-it was no wonder that l coats were like satin, eyes bright and action free. Here was scion of the house of Danegelt, English coachers, Arabs Walers, countrybreds and scientific crosses-well over hundred in all; not that either the late or the present maharaja needed to do the work
 of the household
 While we looked, the team was put
 into the coach, and off we went, four
 in-hand, to see the grounds. It was
 not long to tell their size, for the
 drives wound in and out, twisting till
 you could hardly tell whether you had
 gone a couple of miles or had circled
 back to your starting point. In the season they were parched; leaves were pale and grass almost white. But even so they were cooled to the eye with blue lakes and the shade of swishing trees. They were tufted with every variety of palm, pillar-stemmed, white-oapitalled trees, or the dwarf crowns of fronds that till lately it cost a mans life to smuggle out of Japan. Below them sloped tiers of bushes, green, red and yellow; below these nestled flowers. It was the east for profusion, and west for trimness.
 So We came to denser crowd before the walled court and entered And then looked and blinked There was guard of honor of police and half a dozen finely-mounted sowars in the maharajas marone and gold, There was an Eurasian band in short jackets, white- braided trousers and little round braided caps stuck on one side-the band from South Coast pier slightly soiled But that was nothing. Beside them, standing vacuously of lolling on the grass, were wondrous creatures in the most flaring raiment eyes ever ached to contemplate. The tunics were of such a green as cold words can never hint at--the color of green baize fired with tinge of the hottest yellow Be- low they wore orange trousers, and vermillion decorated and infiamed the whole. They bore great fans on long silver poles-fans of yellow and crimson satin, with suns and stars embroidered | on them with gold thread and pearls
 Suddenly the maharaja bounded on ! to the scene, again in his ultramarine | and grass-color, dashed into the durbar | tent, rushed at his guests, his English | tumbling over itself in all the excite ment of child on his birthday Then he sprang into his state carriage, amid | the boom of blessing from selected | priests, and was away to meet his honor. I went inside the durbar tent and gasped again. On a dais stood the lieutenant governors chair-green vel vet back rose velvet seat, silver frame, gold borders, promiscuous pearls. Be- fore the dais, on the right, was similar chair for the maharaja Be- hind was another group of baize-and- fire green, orange and vermillion, more fans also an old gentleman in silver lowered crimson silk with bossy sil- yer trumpet as long as himself; he smiled with concentration at nothing, and appeared to have been drinking his new lordshp's health And to 'ound off the silver and gold and pearls, here depended from the roof about forty chandeliers and lamps, cheap green, cheap blue cheap purple, their wire skeletons aslkew, short of a drop 1ere and a drop there, insulting the reminiscent partly of seaside odgings, partly of the morning after in Oxford wine-party, 0, India!
 The pavilion was already full. There were the European managers of the like a dozen of them and the babus of the estate also. oortly gentlemen in spectacles and weak boards, in black or fawn gar nents, half coats. half shirts, but with l lear skins, twinllling eyes and smiles I lelther fawning nor patronizing-thes l 3ehari babus were by far the cleanest nen of this class I had seen And here, especially, were all the mahara- as rich relations to support hinl--and lis poor relations, also, to be supported. 'hey are all Brahmans of the most xclusive sanctity; all wore white tur- ands of a peculiar shape, with low eak over the forehead, and all had laborately designed white and red aint on their foreheads. All dripped with altar of roses. One tiny liquid- yed small boned nephew wore Prus- , l~1