Evening capital. (Annapolis, Md.) 1884-1910, 1899-12-09
GIRL OF THE PERIOD
HOW SHE IS ALTERED AT THE
FASHION CENTRE.
Long Bank Account Necessary to Graf.
ify Her Whims-TaiIor-Made Gowns
and Fluffy 6louses-capes and coats
"A New skirt-fiigh Collars.
Sew York FASHION letters.l

and Fluffy 6louses-Capes and Coats
"A New skirt-high Collars.
CNew York fashion letters.)
4 flourishing bank account and I'M
firing perseverance are necessary to
the woman who would keep pace with
the fashion of these days. The wise
woman who wishes to be stylish. and
at the same time economical will put
the lions share of her winter allow
ance into one handsome tailor-made
gown. There are great many tailor
gowns made on the old-fashioned lines
of coats that look like waists, buttoned
in front, opened with small revers ut
the throat and small close-fitting
sleeves. This. however, is style that
requires very well-made figure, while
the coats that do not define the figure
are better for.the generality of people.
There are few costumes made for
street wear that have not some elab-
crate trimming. There Is machine
stitching, the stitched folds. the APP
plique or velvet, or cloth in the differ
ent colors, and also the effect that is
given by combining two shades of
cloth or cloth and velvet There are
very few absolutely plain coat and
skirt costumes and really most of the
gowns that are seen are quite elabor-
ate enough to be worn mt receptions.
Both cheviots AMI rough cloths are
used, but the smooth cloths are first
choice. The fortunate woman who
has her own carriage chooses gray and
tan in the softest shades, deliberately
trimmed with sable and heavy lace,
but the great majority dependent on
cable and trolley adhere to black, dark
gray. blue or the new shade of brown.
Sheets of wool wadding or even pieces
of chamois are used to make the cloth
coat sufficiently warm.
Wraps offer a wide choice. There
are capes of various styles and coats
are of different lengths. Some are
very short. Others reach to the knee,
and still others entirely cover the
skirt The majority of these fit the
figure snugly in the back, but hang
loose in the front.
The Partisan modistes declare the
tight skirts must go. but American
women show no disposition at present
to give them up. The very newest skirt
is plated, with the exception of the
front breadth. But the plaits are firm
ly stitched down from the waist to
well over the hips. so that here the
clinging effect Is still maintained. Be-
low this they open, giving the rest Of
the skirt conspicuous width.
But no matter how many complete
costumes the up-to-date young wom-
an has. she will not consider her ward
rope complete unless il contains half
dozen or more odd waists. For shop
ping or travelling she wears the win
ter shirt waist of flannel or velvcteen.
For theatre wear and impromptu din
ners she has an assortment of fancy
waists to choose from. And they are
gorgeous creations this year, some of
the imported models costing as much
as $3.50. But here is the place where
the clever girl will show her ingenuity
and economy by making ut least a
part OF these herself.
The new waists are fancier than they
were last year. They are tucked and
feather stitched and corded, and not
the plain everyday affairs they at first
We're. Some have the well-known
yoke in the back, others have plain
backs. depending for the touch of
needed fulness on the gathering or
pleats at the waist line. This yoke
less back seems to he gaining steadily
in favor, and as ii is rev touch
yokeless back seems to be gaining
steadily in favor. and yokeless back
goes a great way with some women.
The pleated back is also shown, but
as there is not necessarily yoke with
this style. it is also very new. The
pleats are spread ut the neck and mar
row down to point at the belt. This
style of back should be popular with
stout women. as it tends to making
the lines taper, and every one with a
grain of sense knows that this Is the
summit of stout woman's ambition.
Separate waists of bands of ribbon
are among the seasons novelties. They
are made shirt waist fashion. and the
prettiest effects are obtained when
the ribbon is trimmed with fringe. The
bands of ribbon are connected with
hemstitching done in silk or with any
fancy stitches, and here and there the
fringe is introduced. Ribbon shirt
waists of this sort are made with
broad box plat down the front. the
plat fastening on each side with jew
elled buttons. The ribbons are so ex-
Quisite this year that these waists are
really marvels of beauty. Much more
simple waists are made of pale tinted
silk. cut after the shirt waist pattern,
with the yoke and box plat hand en-
broidered in some small flower. Waists
of faint green silk embroidered with
tiny daisies, are extremely dainty and
pretty. The new red shade known MS
automobile is pretty for children but
rather too conspicuous. for adults. ex-
cept used in very sparing quantities.
There is 10 detail of a woman's at
tire ut present to which the smart
woman pays so much attention as her
collar. 1t is not merely necessary to
have a soft, straight collar around
woman's neck nowadays; she must
stand and be fitted to a pointed tur-