davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1899-02-26

ravages of time in the cruelest way.
Whenever the concealment OF ags Is
consideration it should be avoided.
fMoreoyer, let every woman bear in
mind that pink and red should be worn
above in preference to below the Iace. !
by one of those pink or red collars they
are wearing now-what do you cal tneIn dIl
Stocks. Well, red and pink stocks take
the color out of the race, ana as RUE
make the complexion yellow.
But the strangest mistake to me is that
women insist on wearing a color simply
because it is fashionable and without any
regard TO becomingness. L remember
once being called on to paint girl, quite
a pretty Jewess she was; and dark, OF
I mean horrible for her. Why, | couldn't
see the girls face for that detestable bod
ice seemed to shrek and scream at me.
l demonstrated, but she declined to make
a change owing to the extreme fashion
ableness of the color. What can we ar
lists do when ladies think more of fash
ion than taste!
''If you clever shoppers would only take
the goods before buying, throw it against
the face and use your eyes, you could
easily decide whether or no a color was
an unbecoming tone the effect can be
modified by using white or cream near the
face White fo for blondes and cream ia for a1,
women will do well to remember-only the
fairest and best cared for blondes should
risk ivory white, All other had best cling
Dark greens, blues and purples must
never be attempted by women who have
dark circles under the eyes. or whose
faces have a tendency to hollows. Such
women need flame red, for instance.
"A red-haired woman had best shun all
the reds. Though missing some beautiful
shades. | think she has wider range
to select from than any other type, un-
less it is the brilliant brunette
Pale or delicate looking women seldom
look we'll in any of the grays. tans or
fawns unless they are very Skillfully COM
bined with warm colors.
"Of course no woman whose hair has
the slightest suggestion Of gold or sun
shine should wear yellow next it. Moth
ing takes away the color and luster so
completely. Various shades of red and
the lighter blues look well; then, of
The San Francisco call., 1899-02-26
Comparative Iy Short Skirts for Debutantes

and lace. If the ribbon and lace are OF
excellent quality it Is wasting good ma
terial on poor foundation; If they are
For shabby finery is the most heinous sin
committed in fashions name
From gowns and wraps to headgear. of
course. A sham bonnet" if one must
come in the car, and uncovered head II
sham bonnet is dressed in with the hair
and cannot be removed. 1t is a combna-
ton of the milliner's and hairdrsessers
craft-in fact. a bonnet deftly built on the
locks without the legitimate bonnet
frame This sham bonnet will be
source of constant joy. The disguise. OF
curtain, and later awkwardly readjusted
at random, will soon be forgotten
shame.
Flowers, aigrettes, wired ribbon and
jeweled combs will flourish undisturbed
on well satisfied heads, one simple rule
holding good for all. That rule is that the
hair must serve as a frame, and IL roll
of velvet, silk or satin form a crown the
hair shall show through 1t: In whatever
arrangement the uncovered hair must be
The ".donkey;eared" bow is one of the
most girllsh sham bonnets." The velvet
ears and lined with satin. folded
bias piece of the same velvet is looped
around the knot of hair and is twisted in
donkey-eared bow.
Another pretty style is to substitute two
pairs Oh DAINTY, tiny wings Tor the donkey
ears. The hair should be parted in the
middle and waved loosely over the side
pompadour rolls. The wings must droop
slightly at the tips and the upper pairs
ars trif1e shorter than the lower ones.
The knot and roll encircling the hair are
this style made of black velvet tulle, with
a semi-coronet of cut steel or rhinestones
surmounting the knot of fabric directly in
front.
For the debutante is an appropriately
youthful and simple decoration devoid of
jewels. Just an aigrette rising from
bunch of roses. The roses may be double
or single, but are eXaggeratedly large and
have the stems concealed in the pompa-
dour.
The most matronly of the sham bon
nets is called the Louis XVI. The hair Is
brushed over a pompadour roll that COM
pletely encircles the head It is then
dressed in a loose knot, the ends of which
are curled and pinned fatty down to the
knot. A twist of black velvet twined
around the knot is finished off in front
with a Louis XVI bow. The latter is the
novel part of the head dress. 1t is made
of white tulIe, carefully wired at the
edges under piping of black velvet. Pas
tiles of black velvet are appliqued to the
tulle, which IS then bent and crinkled into
the fashionable Louis XVI. Mock Jewels
or spangles may be effectively substituted
for the velvet dots.
The San Francisco call., 1899-02-26
BECOMING


Tell you how to choose becoming col
ors?' said William Chase, the famous ar
tist do you know that is about the
hardest question | have ever been called
upon to answer? Why, artists study years
10 acquire such knowledge. and many or
us descend to our graves feeling we have
not mastered the secret.
THE art of dressing we'll does not de-
pend on the selection of colors alone. but
on the form. l will illustrate: Take the
costumes worn in Trelawny of the Wells
The coers are beautiful and the effect at
tractive, but they are not graceful. The
old Greeks are the ones women should
study when seeking graceful effects. and
if they wish harmony of colors, let them
study old Japanese prints.
"Of course, blondes should always
choose what are known among artists as
cool colors: for example, blues, ptnks,
green's, the many shades of violet, also
white or black. Brunettes have all the
warm tones-yellow, orange, red, with
a few purples and blues-to select from
at is more difficult for blonde than
brunette to dress becomingly. All women
with light hair or eyes fancy they should
wear blue, especially delicate tints of
azure whereas very few of them can at
tempt it successfully. Only blondes with
perfect compilations ought ever attempt
pale blues. Yet it is very generally be-
coming to brunettes. Such women do not
The San Francisco call., 1899-02-26
FriIls of fashions.

In the first place it is evident that only
the lightest and most delicate colorings
will be used. There are palest fawn, faint
est hedge sparrow-egg blue, the most
will be fashionable, although distinctly.
to my mind. the fawn and pale gray
shades are the best and most becoming:
The cloth used is an entirely new material
called pastelle; sort of stuff that is most
delicately soft and light, and having
neither cord nor grain. 1t is made up with
extreme simplicity, sometimes merely
strapped or bound with white satin and
trimmed with a multiplicity of narrow
stitchings in white, or else worn with one
of those long, sweeping, princess-shaped
overdresses in guipure lace.
Girls who affect long redingotes with
slanting side pockets in front of the hips
are wearing chatelaines, with the pin fas-
trinketS seemingly tumbling out in merry
jingle jangle. Out of the same pocket. and
as securely fastened in, puffs the frill of
priceless lace kerchief.
The wash silks. otherwise known as
silk cheviots,, abound among spring i'm
tremely pretty, many Of them showing
the pin and polka-dotted designs so uni
versally popular. Others are in soft
shades, in stripes of rose color and reseda.
russet and damask red, pale violet and
chamois color, two distinct shades of
blue or green, etc. The silks. in tiny
manner first introduced by Paris and
London tailors. trim. perfectly fitted
shirt waist being added to travelling,
morning and tennis costumes of woolen
or light weight cloth. The jacket en-
suite this year is close fitting and short,
and this, with the tailor skirt5-fs formed
of silky English serge. which costs 81 80
a yard but is extra wide, requiring a
very little material for both jacket and
Lace founces will trim the bottom of
plain skirts A form of lace especially
prepared for fiouncing is in slightly cir
cular shape and is called the ''godet''
fiouncing These conform TO the shape of
the skirt without being gathered or pleat-
ed This make can also be used with
great effect in the formation of cascades
and other styles of trimming. not only
for skirts but for waists.
The Easter bridesmaids, the summer
dancing maid. as well as the debutante of
the winter season, can have nothing more
appropriate than one of the painted silk
muslins which have some of these rose
designs on faint blue or lemon grounds.
These are mounted over soft silk, such as
surahs. ottomans, unstifened or satin
foulards. so that the foundations are all
limp and trailing. the muslin alone crisp
ing airily about the limbs
Lizards modelled in gold and thickly set
with diamonds and emeralds are the fad
of the moment.
The San Francisco call., 1899-02-26
Glace Silk.

the alum water unless the nose is too
tleshy.
too sensible a girl to think for even a
minute of enameing your face. could
tell You all sorts of woeful tales or
women who have been silly enough TO
plaster their faces with enamel. They
never wanted a second coating, | can as
sure you of that. The red nose indicates
impure blood or defective circulation.
Regular exercise and careful diet are
very necessary. Take not Iootbaths at
night and use diluted witch hazel as an
external application. A paste which can
be put on at night will take the redness
away. 1t is made by taking one teaspoon
full of glycerin and two teaspoonfuls of
water and adding enough prepared chalk
RACHEL N.~For the freckies. dissolve
lemon juice and apply to the face every
night with small soft brush. Am sorry.
but l do not happen to have the formula
for particularly good liquid powder;
If you will send me stamped addressed
envelope will give you the name of a
prepared liquid powder that L can recon-
NJ. BIN Sundays Call. February 12.
there appeared a special Beauty Talk on
the care of the hair. l hope you found
in it something that entirely fitted your
TNoUIsITIvE-The recipe that you
wish calls for equal parts of lanolin,
cocoanut oil and cocoa butter, melted to-
gether. Please read foregoing replies to
Helen Hunt and Anxious.
BROWN EYES+Half a teaspoonful of
ammoniaA to tablespoonful of peroxide
of hydrogen IS about the proper propor-
ton.
NETTIE 1.-THE tonic that you had
prepared should not make the hair
greasy particularly if you are careful to
apply 1T only to the scalp and not to the
hair itself. When the hair is excessively
oily or the scalp unusually crowded with
dandruff, it should be shampooed once
a week, and occasionally an egg sham
poo is more beneficial than the usual
one of soap. The simplest recipe is the
yolk of an egg, thoroughly beaten, in one
ounce of rosemary spirits and one pint
of very warm water. Rinse well in. sew
eral waters. i sincerely hope that this
treatment will benefit you.
DOLORES B.-To-day's Beauty Talk
will answer your question.
A. l. D. WI am very sorry, but ]
could rot make out your letter.
AN INQUIRER-When the face is too
red for comfort much of the color can
be got rid of by active pedestrianism. a
well-ventilated bedroom, no tight bands
or corsets and a diet of ripe pears,
oranges and figs Put the hands and feet
in hot water. in which is a little
mustard powder, every night. Avoid hot
drinks. eat very slowly and be out in the
open air as much possible.
PANSY BLOSSOM-You need have no
fears in using the peroxide of hydrogen
on the superfluouS hair. Add to 1t
small quantity of ammonia. This will
deaden the hairs in time and so check
their growth.
The San Francisco call., 1899-02-26
Gowns FOR
TRAVELLING.

A feature of the travelling dress as it
is now in its perfection is its long coat
Tailors turn out cloth gowns in three
pieces-shrt, shirt and highwayman coat
The skirt in this instance Is Just one OF
the close-ftting popular affairs.
The shirt is silk or Wool as you drdbs pieasg as
nigh to the heel, fits the body snugly clear
up TO the chin, takes the hips without
wrinkle, but below it falls in a sort of un-
conscious drapery.
Sometimes it closes with f1y-front and
concealed buttons, all seams strapped,
and the hem turned up little above the
skirts foot and straight around.
In other cases it closes with series OF
handsome braid ornaments from shoulder
down and is artistically shaped, irregu-
larlv at the bottom, shorter in front than
behind Any way you please to have 1t,
the long coat is predominant and nee
essary part not only of the spring trav-
eler's wardrobe. but belongs in that OF
the stay-at-homes. ~
Under the chin such coat comes with
in two buttons of the neck, turns back
tfny notched revers, and shows tie. or
CAV color on ripple of cream lace be-
tokening the stock shirt beneath.
The San Francisco call., 1899-02-26

@HE critic has given you fore
cast of the coming grand opera
season Who will sing? has been
answered What shall we wear -
j is now the question. 1 knew II
would follow in the wake of the
first Interrogation, so am fully prepared
to answer
In the first place, the odd skirt and
waist effect will not be regarded with Ia
-vor. For the ordinary play such COM
bination still passes muster. But for the
grand opera. out with your purple ana
fine linen.
A plan equally tabooed is to wear an
evening gown with a detachable yoke or
guimpe. They show too plainly that they
have been constructed to do double duty
for the theater and ball room. This is
entirely too economical a plan to suit
smart Dame Fashion.
Your gown for the opera must bear the
marks of having been made especially
for that event. Silk. satin, mousseline de
sole, chiffon. crepe de chine, net, in fact,
the entire gamut of soft materials is run
by the modiste for the opera gown. How
ever elaborate the trimming or how dar-
ing the color scheme the body part must
be made of one material The new opera
gowns are neither 'patchy' nor fuSsy.
As for the wraps, short wraps are more
comfortable than the long cloaks, aid for
That reason viii be more generally worn.
satin, velvet and brocade and of every
color, as well as black. The fiowered bro
cades are especially nOticeable-the flow
ers in colors on a black satin ground.
The shape is about the same for all
fitted over the shoulders and trimmed
down the fronts and around with ruffies
of satin and lace. There is a high far
ing collar. filed in with lace ruffles, and
with a band of fur outlying the ruff
fes. These garments are apparently
shapeless but in reality are most carefully
cut and fitted. If not they are entirely
lacking in style.
They should always be made with warm
Innings. wadded or lined with fur, and
then they are warm without being heavy.
Heavy cloths are not necessarily warm, it
is we'll known. All the capeS must be
trimmed with full double ruffies down the
front. for the fashion demands that while
over the shoulders a tight sloping loop
is fashionable, in front everything must
be soft and fluffy.
A word of warning! Don't try to freshen
up 4 shabby cape with a knot of ribbon
The San Francisco call., 1899-02-26

need perfect compilations, as it throws
out what little color they may have in
cheeks and lips and has the effect of
clearing the skin.
''The same may be said of delicate
shades of yellow, while the reverse is true
of pink Almost any type excepting d
very red blonde-I mean one with horid
skin-may wear pink safely, whereas the
brunette or brown-haired woman has to
be careful to secure the right shade. She
needs pink with a suggestion of yellow
Another thing to remember about pink,
1t is a shocking telltale, revealing the
The San Francisco call., 1899-02-26

fortieth time and looked down the road,
her eyes, she looked more intentiy. and
soon forms evolved out Of the rapidly
moving chaos. 1t was her husband hot1y
pursued by squad of the enemy. He
was running for the house like mad, his
pursuers close on his heels.
With a sob, Mrs. Smith sank 10 the
Hif that isn't just like joint she cried:
bringing a lot of men home TO dinner
that | never saw before, and not thing
In the house to eat.
The San Francisco call., 1899-02-26
dust Like a Man.

The country writhed in the throes Of a
terrible war, and the red lightning of bat
tie played necessarily athwart the skies
II was with an anxious heart that Mrs
Smith moved about the house making
ready for dinner for her husband was A
soldier, and even now was battling mile
AS she went to the door for about the
The San Francisco call., 1899-02-26

Newly Appointed Father-My dear, I've
decided to buy phonograph.
Newly Appointed Mother-What for, Al
fred? x,- =.
Newly Appointed Father think 1T
would be nice to show the twins when
thew grow up what they owe US as an
apology.-Illustrated Bits.
The San Francisco call., 1899-02-26

III III
II write upon. But the demand for
vi information upon this subject
has piled up TO such enormous
proportions that L have decided TO go at
It hammer and tongs to-day and have it
over with. So, all of you who have writ
ten to me for treatment of 'pimples, please
read clip and save, so that when L come
to your letters l can just refer you to to-
days Beauty Talk. and so save space and
get caught up in a measure with the
correspondence which has languished to
such an extent that some of the letters
on my file are over six weeks old.
s However, revenons a nos moutons.
Those distressing little spots that come
out on the face arise from various causes,
and, though generally easy to remove,
they sometimes exhibit an obstfnacy
equal to that of the proverbial mule. They
are usually an indication of some physical
disorder; either a arrangement of the
digestive apparatus, caused by injudicious
eating; an impure condition of the blood,
or they may come from neglect of the
laws of hygiene Sometimes they are SIM
pIy local irritations. So the more rational
plan is TO find the seat of the trouble and
remedy that instead of dabbing all sorts
of ointments and lotions on the face. The
chances are that the local applications
will not do a particle of good. for. so
long as the cause remains, the effect
will likely travel right along in Its trail.
With nine women out OF ten the cause
The San Francisco call., 1899-02-26
SUPERFLUOUS HAIR

is removed by the Philadelphia
Electrolysis Company, Donohoe
building, i1.0 Market street, cor.
TAYLOR, rooms 1928. with the
electric needle, without pain or
scar. Moles, warts. wrinkles.
blackheads, freckles, birthmarks.
etc, also removed. Permanency
guaranteed. Hours. ! to p. m.
The San Francisco call., 1899-02-26

First Officer-How would you fancy
sailor for a husband, Miss CurZon?
Miss Curzon-Very much, indeed. If he
We're like yourself.
F. o. (highly ffattered)-It's extremely
The San Francisco call., 1899-02-26

First Citizen-The taxes on beer and
liquors make a surprisingly large part OF
Second Citizen-Yes. indeed! Its hard to
see how we could expand If we dldn
rink-Puck
The San Francisco call., 1899-02-26
Talks o2 Beauty BY Mme. pyQeia.


sfo benefit a
column and
thai
The San Francisco call., 1899-02-26

where he would never be heard of again.
Wicks-Yes: the Government should hX
il some way so that we could elect MIN
Vice President in 1900-Puck.
The San Francisco call., 1899-02-26

Hicks-That fellow Aguinaldo is going
to be troublesome character. The Gov
ernment should do something to get him
The San Francisco call., 1899-02-26

course. white or a bit of bright purple,
but not other colors. Well, / think 1t
safest for the majority to avoid using
them in the hair.
mire white and black gowns more than
any other. When properly designed L
have never seen a woman to whom Such
a dress was unbecoming.
The San Francisco call., 1899-02-26
Pinples
FreckleS
Coarse
Pores
Wrinkles
MOleS

You probably fully realize how obnoxious
+bese hiemfshes are but are too sensitive to
investigate a treatment for their removal DO
Ns1u know the longer these blemtshes are al
lowed 10 run on unchecked. the more numerous
ttaey become? Consider this coming week your
opportunity and let me prove to y6u what
/ can do toward Fenovating your skin ne
I,ernher investigation costs yon nothing.
have yet found no case OF skin afhiction be
yond repair Consultation strictly private. NO
fUbiiclty.
The San Francisco call., 1899-02-26

F ALL the topics for Beauty
Talks that of facial eruptions
is, perhaps, the least pleasant to
write upon. But the demand for
information upon this subject
hoe niIad I'm to such enormous
The San Francisco call., 1899-02-26
FREE
MENTS

Sufficient to convince the most skepticai that
every woman can possess that chief essential
10 beauty-a fresh, healthy complexion.
Through Indifference and neglect your skin
Is probably maVred with
The San Francisco call., 1899-02-26
A WEEK OF
SKIN RENOVATION !!

Science teaches us that the skin needs ex-
ternal nourishment to protect IT against the
ravages of time. In order to more fully con-
vince the ladies of this city of this important
fact I will devote this coming week to
The San Francisco call., 1899-02-26

HE critic has given you a fore
cast of the coming grand opera
season. Who viii sing? has been
answered. What shall we wear
j is now the question. I knew 1t
The San Francisco call., 1899-02-26

and lace If the ribbon and lace are OF
excellent quality ii is wasting good ma
terial on a poor foundation. If they are
not it is still more unpardonable crime.
For. shabby finery is the most helnouS SIN
committed in fashions name.
The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1899-06-17
THE MUNICIPAL ICoURT.

In the Municipal court before Recorder
Whslden yesterday morning, the case Of
Joseph II. Burgess was tried. Burgess
was arrested for drunkenness. A previous
conviction was alleged on which sentence
was suspended by Judge Robinson last
fall On these cases he was given ninety
days In jail. Burgess was also charged
with stealing five or six books belonging
to E. S. Osgood. They were found in q
shop and witness testified to buying
them OF Burgess for 90 cents Mr.. Osgood
identified them and Burgess did not deny
selling them. On this charge he was
given an additional three months in jail,
He appealed and was ordered to give
onds in 5000. He gave bonds.
John Ward was fined 80 and costs for
intoxication but the fine was suspended
during good behavior.
Matthew II. Kerwin got sixty days in
jail for intoxication.
William H.Leahey, same offense, So and
costs and John II. Curtis, same sentences
but 1t was suspended during good be-
havior.
The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1899-06-17
WOODFORD.

The straw berry festival and entertain.
ment held Thursday evening. at Lewis
hall by the ladies' guild,of Trinity Epis-
copal chapel was we'll attended. The sup
per was served under the direction of
Mrs. Charles Bean, Mrs. A. p. Topliff
and Mrs. Oliver Lowell. A fine pro-
gramme of vocal and Instrumental num-
bers and readings was carried out under
the direction Of Mrs ]. b. Derry and
Mrs. +. r. Redlcn, the entertainment
committee.
Rev. Harry Il Townsend and wife, the
new pastor Of the Woodfords Universe list
church, has arrived in the city from
New York and is to commence the duties
of his new pastorate on Sunday.
The Deering Golf club holds handicaps
every Saturday afternoon at the links
near Fessenden park, Oakdnle. The sea-
son is now at its height and considerable
interest is being taken in the game by
members and friends of the club
The advertised letters at thu Woodfords
post office are for the following persons:
Miss Bessie Clark and Mrs. H. A. Far
we'll