The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1899-07-02
THE EMPRESS DRESSMAKERS
QUEEN VICTORIA's SECRET sYNIp.
THY WITH DRESS REFORM.

press of Germany and Her Enor.
Czarlna Spends More on Her Ward
robe Than Any Crowned Head in
EurOpe-Queen Margherita's Pas
sion for Observation-Disclosures OF
Greece Dresses Exclusively in RIue
and White.
New York July SO-It is not very gen.
orally known, perhaps, that some wears
ago Queen Vistoria caught the dress re-
form fever and joined an association. Sha
furthermore inveigled a number of her
dowager friends into becoming members.
Although the Queen never astonished
her court by appearing in a dress cut la
reformation, she thought the idea Of some
not too radical reforms in dress a capital
one-at least for the orner women.
Through the Queens influence the
Princess of Wales and her daughters be-
came interested, and for a brief season
Princess Victoria and the Duchess Of File
appeared upon occasions IN garbs that
were at least semi-reformed.
1t cannot be said, however that they
ever became violently enthusiastic upon
the subject.
During the last fifteen years the Prime
ess of Wales has scarcely varied The fash
ion of her costumes at all. Through the
age of big, puffed sleeves she clunc to
small ones For the make of her gowns
the style known as Princess" has always
been adhered to and no one has ever seen
a picture hat on her royal highness
head. She wears only those dainty little
bonnets which bear her name. Tailor
made frocks and jackets she dotes on,
although before going into mourning for
her mother she had blossomed out IN
very stunning toilets.
She does not favor the fashion of high
shoulder knots, and her ball dresses are
made with the old-fashioned court bodices.
the shoulder strap dropping on to the
arm.
The Princess Beatrices' attire is apt to
be of the simplest description upon Or
binary occasions. One travelling the con
tinent who had a peep at Queen Victoria
and the Princess Beatrice, wrote home,
nothing could be palmer than their
gowns"
The Empress and Her staff of Dress
makers.
The German Empress, too, has well de
fined ideas about DRESS and once organlz-
ed a dress reform order, which counted
among its members many high ana mighty
DANES. The Empress, however, is TOO
fond of fine dressing to carry these re-
forms very far. Twelve dressmakers ara
kept constantly employed in the Empress
tailoring department., as 1t is called, uh-
der the superintendent of lady OF the
court. The staff is increased to forty at
certain seasons, when court festivities are
going on, or the Empress is preparing
for a journey. Blue and white are, by
the way the faVorite colors.
The Empress buys yearly 100 evening
and state dresses, twice as many carriage
and visiting costumes and about $50 dem-
toilettes and house dresses-450 frocks all
told! The sewing machine is an UNI
known quantity in the Empress tailor
shop. From $25 to $50 a yard Is paid for
the silks and satins of which her dresses
are made.
The Czarina's Wardrobe.
The Empress of Russia spends more on
her wardrobe than any royal lady in Eu-
rope Until and for a short time after
her marriage, she dressed with almost Sc
we're simplicity, but the grand ladies of
the Russian court took no pains to con
ceal their disapproval of the Empress in
difference to regal splendor of attire, and
the result is that her majesty is Gorgeous
now in raiment which might be likened
to wrought gold" Shoes are an import
ant item, for the lady has pretty foot
with high instep and her size is No
2 B.
Royal handkerchief.
Queen Margherita has a passion for
dainty handkerchiefs and the costliest lace L
handkerchief in the world belongs to her
II is valued at $4,000, a not eXorbiJant
sum- when one considers that three artists
worked at it for twenty years. 1t is 50
filmy, that it can be folded up and placed
in a gold sheath about the size of a lima
bean.
The favorte dress of Queen Olga Of
Greece is of blue and white striped or
checked domestic silk, these being the ma
tional colors, and besides the makers OF
silk in her realm have not learned to dye
it any other colorS.
The cast off demi-toilettes of royalty E
carriage and house dresses are the per
quisites of the head woman of the bed
chamber" who after making a selection
for her own use, in some cases. she either
sells them to private parties or to an 'o!d
clothes" establishment. Here they are not
allowed to be sold, as they are received,
but in all cases. they must be remodeed
so as to obliterate their special features.
Actresses are among the principal Gus
toners of these shops.
AristOcracy's Fine Clothes.
The Countess of Warwick whose wit
beauty and philanthropy are often para
graphed, is magnified at times in her at
tire-like unto royalty itself. She is
woman with exquisite golden hair. deep
blue eyes, finely marked brows ana
graceful, elegant figure. An American
lady who recently met her at an outdoor
function says that the countess wore on
that occasion, a French blue cloth dress
trimmed with silver passementerie, ana
she tra1Ied her handsome skirt about me
yard with a nonchalence that shovel
there We're plenty more where that came
from.
Consuefo the Duchess of MARLBOROUGH
bah gowns are beautifully SOFT white am
fluffy and she invariably wears strings o.
pearls as ornaments, and keeps her ga
monds for gowns of more imposing ma
terial. With "Lothair," she thinks tnH'
there Is a reserve about pearls VINO"
makes them best fitted for white dresses
One of her pearl necklaces consists OF SIN
teen rows of magnificent pearls. Aholme
one has ten rows of pearlss with great old
mond slides-thig seems almost too hea'S
for her tiny throat