davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Omaha daily bee., 1899-02-05

margin here and there extended beyond and
above that on the other Upon advising
with some OF the best publishing houses in
the country the universal verdict was re.
ceived that the matter OF uneven register
was a difficulty that had never been OBJ.
Waited: that II was one Of those minor de-
fects due to conditions, which simply
had to be accepted, This. however. failed
to satisfy Mrs. Van veehten. She con-
tinued to think measure. plan. evolve. and
finally one day said to her foreman:
Henry, Just remove that peg that holds
! the paper In place to the right and let me
feed from the left"
'Why, madam. that can't be DONE" said
the printer of fifteen years experience,
mo professional printer was ever known to
feed from the left"
'well. let us try It," urged Mrs. Van
Vechten.
Impossible" replied the foreman.
what did you say?' asked Mrs. Van
Yechten with strong suggestion Of COM
mand In her tone. and the unwilling fore
man transferred the peg.
From the left side went through one
sheet, which when held up TO the light re-
yealed a perfect and uniform register, not
hairs breadth difference between the two
sides
The foreman's eyes widened with aston
ishment as he ventured
well, 1t did happen TO strike Just right
that tme didn't it?'
Another and another went through until
the whole edition was printed without blem-
ish or variation, and Mrs. Van Vechten' S
reputation was forever established as a
practical workman.
Only limited edition-from 90 to 3o0--ls
issued from the Philosophers press and
Mrs. Van Yechten puts through each page
herself, carefully examining It as 1t comes
out to note the perfection of the type, the
spread of the ink, etc. After which, en-
tirely unaided, she puts the book together,
and prepares it for the binder! She also
prints entire the monthly issue OF the
Philosopher.
Mrs. Van Vechten has taken up this work
from pure love of good workmanship, and
occasionally takes advantage of her equip
ment to bestow upon friends gifts OF rare
value, as when, for example, she got out an
exquisite edition of spenser's Epithalamium
on Japanese vellum-limited to five copies
for wedding gifts. Brownings Andrea Del
Sarto and Keats odes for private distribu-
tlon, were also superb works OF art.
Notwithstanding her delightful home, Mrs
Van Vechten is rather given to receiving
her intimate friends in her printing office,
where, although nothing has been done TO
modify its distinctive business character. 1t
is not without atmosphere-that atmosphere
which a collection Of the best thoughts of
the best minds never fails to impart and
here one has but to put out his hand to let
1t rest upon some rare and treasured
volume"
1t is indeed worth long journey to
Omaha daily bee., 1899-02-05

should presume 10 assume one OF these lit
tie garments. for manifestly the jaunty cut
of 1t will only display her rotund proper
tions to the most ludicrous disadvantage.
The plump, short person can in all safety
though. claim as her own the coat with
the beetle tails: the coat that is a swift
cutaway over the hips and drops it's rear
skirts to the wearer's knee or even to her
heels There IS only one great drawback
to this wrap; it does not lend itself to sue
cessful make in the hands of any but an
eXpert tailor. Still the beetle backs are
bound to have a season OF great popular eX
altation, though 1t requires no great acumen
10 decide that one season will round out
their existence. The style of the garment
like the prevailing cut Of skirts. is too ex-
aggerated to hold feminine favor over long,
Cheap and Effective Wraps.
Dandyish short wraps are piped with silk
instead OF strapped in their seams. The silk
matches the color OF the coats cloth, and
the select coatings for this year are gray
covering instead OF brown. ink blue and
iron rust brown military melton and later
we are going to have silk and poplin and
wool grenAdine coats made over colored silk
Innings.
Women who know how to buy at the rem
nant counters have eXcelled their shrewd
genius by purchasing reduced lengths Of
crushed velvet, veours antique, embossed
satin, etc, and making them up into coats
bodies with cutaway tails and hung with
huge lace jabots In front gorgeous look
Ing body is inexpensively compiled by the
Iewing woman who comes to the house. and
all sorts OF old skirts. silk. satin or wool.
are worn out in the now waning season py
the aid OF this coat device.
The one message, warning, or advice on
the tongue OF every dressmaker is the over
skirt. Not to wear an oversklrt is to argue
yourself a hopeless Phillstine OF fashion.
The light weight light toned Henriettas.
Amazon cloths. wool armures. the lovely
white drap du Sudan and the countless cot
ton weayes are being rapidly converted into
costumes with Greek peplums, round apron
effects or tunic draperies We may disap-
prove on the score OF comfort. but we can't
help relishing the novelty that has been so
sorely needed for some time in the lower
half OF the modish toilet.
After all. so excessively airy are the
spring goods, without exception and sc
Bkilfully has all superfuous width been
eliminated from our draperes that we will
not carry in the overskirts an inch OF actual
extra material.
The placket hole Is still a mystery and
only the maker OF a skirt and its weareI
know how it Is got into, No riding habits
were ever made TO At with more OF a we'll
wallpaper effect than the skirt OF
the moment and 1t is neither untruthful mo-
ill-natured to say that women who are broat
in the beam. heavy in hip and show grea
Omaha daily bee., 1899-02-05

In clear cofd water, so as to remove any
decayei matter which may have accumu-
lated during the day, and all the withered
leaves ana jaded petals should be removed
with a sharp pair OF tclssers. Take care not
to get any water on the flowers themselves,
as 1t will destroy their bloom. During the
night they should be put into vase con-
tanning a solution OF soap and water and
set in a cool place. In the morning cut The
end OF the stems again and leave IN clear.
cold water for TWO hours before returning
them to the vases containing the sulphate
Of ammonia.
Violets, roses and delicate ferns will last
best II they are laid each night on piece
Of damp flannel and covered over with a
large bow.
Rosebuds will fatten into large, fun blown
roses II placed in the ice box for twenty
four hours. White carnations can be- timed
to almost any shade by putting 1ye IN tue
water into which they are placed.
Omaha daily bee., 1899-02-05
Femininc PersonnIs.

Mrs. S. j. Atwood who runs a labor
bureau In Denver, has hired over 10000 men
in the last thirteen years for work on west
eTn railroads,
In the Western Union building in New
York over $50 women telegraphers are EN-
ployed Their salaries range from 81 to slS
per week and their hours of service are
from a. m to $3.50 p m, with extra pay
FOR overtime work.
Mrs. ]. II. r. Bond of Chicago was one
OF Florence Nlghtingale's ablest assistants
and served through the Zulu war and Egyp-
tlan campaigns. As a consequence she Is
probably the most decorated woman In
America. having received the Star OF Egypt
from the late khediye. Royal Red Cross
from Victoria and three others.
Mrs. Burton Harrison. the novelist, is the
wife u a New York lawyer who during the
civil war was secretary to Jefferson Davis.
Mrs. Harrlson's grandfather was Lord Falr-
fax, who late In the eighteenth century came
10 this country and took up his abode on his
vast Virginia estates. II was from this
family that Thackeray drew inspiration
when penning THE Yirginians."
The queen of Afghanistan is a striking
Omaha daily bee., 1899-02-05

A Woman Who Keeps His Wardrobe
In Ordcr for One Dollar MeelS.

in order for One Dollar n Week.
A bachelor apartment house on Fifth
avenue, New York, has what they call "the
useful woman" The name fits to well
that no one ever wonders what her family
did for her In the way of a name, or what a
matrimonial venture has probably besto owed
upon her. She comes around every Mon
day morning and goes from apartment TO
apartment, leaving traces of her presence
behind her. AS these bachelors are not
sufficiently rich to indulge in valet each
they have discovered that "the useful
woman" is an excellent and economical
substitute. The first thing she does on her
Monday morning rounds is to gather up all
the soiled clothes, count them and have
them ready for the laundryman. Then she
overlooks the wardrobe, dusts the clothes,
removes small spots, sews on buttons and
puts the garments in order. To the ten
bachelors who discovered her and decided
to club together and get her to look after
them she added ten more in the adjoining
building, and she gives them Tuesdays.
She comes back on Friday to look after
the first ten again, examines the clothes
returned from the laundry and mends the
underwear She does such dainty patch
ing, repairing every little break with such
infinite care that the most fastidious man
can find no fault with her handiwork The
socks she carries home with her and brings
back on Monday neatly darned. Soiled
necktles she takes to the cleaner; the shoes
she dusts and puts on shoe trees, and the
bachelors who are fortunate enough to have
her weekly ministrations feel that they
can afford tn speak pityngly OF their
friends who have only a man servant.
For these services they pay the useful
woman 81 a week each, not large sum,
but she has twenty men in the two first
houses and twenty men in another apart
ment house, so that she makes $40 week.
That is not a bad salary for a woman who
has no education and no experience in bust
ness.
"I do not know how to do anything"
she confessed to a friend. 81 cant plan or
make gowns or garments of any kind, but
I am handy with the needle and was taught
to mend neatly by the most particular Of
grandmothers.
when | was suddenly confronted with
to me that the only thing | really could do
well was mendng. For that reason I de-
termined to try to get people to let me
patch for them. l have been very success
full. Most women would scorn such an oc-
cupation and so l find plenty of custom
ers. Several private families send me table
linen and apparel that lis in need OF few
stitches, though of course, bachelor apart
ment houses pay best"
Omaha daily bee., 1899-02-05
FASHIONS FOR SPRING.

New Things In Coats. Wraps, skirts
and Sensonnbie Hats.
NEW YORK, Feb. 2.-The tailors have
their needles threaded and their shears
sharpened for the cutting and basting OF
spring coats The women whose clothes arc
guides and beacon lights TO their sisters are
setting out for the south Just now, and the
light coats they take with them serve as
perfect models for the stay-at-homes.
All The youthful and slender women, such
as Mrs. Clarence MaCkey, Mrs John II. Ltv-
ermOre and Mrs. Almeric Paget. will wear
In North Carolina, Florida and Bermuda
either very short or wonderfully long Jackets
over their flannel and silk shirt waists. The
short coats are quite bewitching, for they
are cut off exactly at the waist line but
do not close in for tight ht Instead, they
hang out rather freely and are sloped open
and gIsseted in three places on the bottom.
In front they close up, with fly finish so
high that a necktle just peeps out at the
top; the sleeves are severe and a narrow
notched collar. faced with corded silk. folds
away about the neck.
With a soft slozy silk in dull pink, blue.
green or red these coats are lined. and the
one pocket in such garments is set on the
outside and rather high on the left breast.
Now, no woman with full hips and bust
Omaha daily bee., 1899-02-05
'RlNG SALE on YALE BEAUTY. REAPR,css.


Small ...... ..... ............ 49,. .... $L25
BEAUTY"cretes
Wt11TENER"-Makes delicate
the to
dandruT andal
|
ed
"a fem n
-
a the blood liver
and giving a
erh sex-
be
retirn andth a
GRowER'for
growth OF
rose for the cheeks
lip
Omaha daily bee., 1899-02-05

abdominal fulIness commit hari-kari, so far
as their own grace and good looks go, by
adopting this excessively Partisan fashion,
The latest extremity to which this fash.
ion has gone Is that OF lacing the skirt
up In front The skirt is slit open about
ten or twelve inches down from the waist
line and this opening, when the garment Is
in place, is closed by silk lacings that run
up to the waist and there form a bowknOt
with gilt tipped ENDS.
Taking the signals OF spring as they
appear day by day one finds the foulards
in evidence with very few changes in their
spots and dots and striplngs over last sum-
mer. Silkalisse Is a charming novelty
goods, half cotton, half silk, very SOFT wash"
able and in changeable blues. Cerise, yell
lows and star greens. Don't be in the least
afraid Of Bdyedere strips. They are fash
ionabe force to reckon with still in gren-
adines, wool goods, etamine5 and gingham.
white Cotton Dresses.
II elaborate preparations for heavy sales
are significant then white cotton gowns, es-
pecially embroidered ones, are sure to be
dominant feature next summer. Few OF
such toilets, bear 1t in mind, will be made
OF plain white nainsook, muslin or pique
more or less conservatvey trimmed Tho
truly pretty and admirable white dress will
Some years ago a costume of that type rep
resented enormous hand labor and a hugo
dressmakers bill.
This spring bolts OF white stuff, manu-
factured in alternate stripings OF embroid-
cry insertion, fittings OF lace and clusters
OF the delicate little tucks, will lie on coun-
ters at a price any purse Will be able to
compass and it will require no great amount
Of skill to put such a gown in wearing
shape, since tucked and lace edged and
gathered fills are also sold, ready for ap
plication in the shops.
Spring Hats.
The first fashion swallow, so to speak, al
ways appears as a harbinger Of spring in
women's hats, in the attractive form Of
flowers. Feathers at this moment are de-
cidedy twisted by long battle with mid
winter dust and gales and women are glad
enough to prolong the useful beauty of a
felt or velvet toque by replacing bedragged
plumes with knots OF fresh posies.
stalk of flowers is the momentary pref
erence. 1t stands UP as high as six inches
where the plumes lately waved and its body
is wire, wrapped with ribbon, and onto this
small roses, volets primroses, pansies etc,
climb in close set company, quite like holy
hooks round their garden stakes. The wire
framework is then so fastened to the hat
that at every nod of the wearer's head and
every passing breeze the stalk sways this
way and that. Another springish idea in
millinery is that Of having ornamental hal
pin heads united by pretty chain punctu
ated with small jewels or tiny enameled
flower faces. MARY DEAN.
Omaha daily bee., 1899-02-05
A PINE WOODS PUBLISHER.
The Only BoolSmuISer in This or Any
Other Country.

Other Country.
The pine woods of northern Wisconsin is
about the last place in the world that one
would look to for the production of ex-
quislte handmade books and that such
should be the work OF woman from start
to finish does not lessen the anomaly. In
deed, Mrs. Helen Bruneau Van Vechten of
Wausau, Wis, Is. in all probability, the
only woman bookmaker in this or any other
country OF women writer's there are many.
of women bookbinders not few. while here
and there women decorators are beginning
to dot the literary horizon. but it remained
for Mrs. Van Vechten to fall in love with
the art OF printing and one has but to look
through some of her limited editions" to
realize the far cry between books made con
amore and books made to sell.
Merely as an incidental. Mrs Van Vech-
tens husband became partner of William
H. Ellis. who had Just begun to issue the
Philosopher and who had under considera-
tiOn various plans for publishing books. 1t
soon became evident that there was too
much work for the limited force OF the office
and Mrs. Van Vechten. who had nothing
to do. offered to take care OF the corre-
spondence. In this way she gradually be-
came au courant of the business and proved
that her judgment upon all commercial
points was clear. sound and far seeing Her
taste, too, upon margins, arrangement. the
use of color, etc, was invariably found to
be fine and discriminating and thus came to
be the deciding voice. In short. by the
mere process OF evolution Mrs. Van Vech-
ten became the firm. not only speaking the
final word in all matters involving business
discretion and artistic judgment but doing
large part Of the manual labor herself.
single example serves to illustrate how
woman's intuition is frequently more than
a match for years of manly experience. 1t
seems that deckle- edged hand made paper
used in expensive editions-is. for some
good and sufficient reason. not cut exactly
on the square. This makes 1t exceedingly
difficult to so arrange that the printing on
one side the page shall be exactly opposite
that on the other: matter OF little import
TO the ordinary reader. but defect which
The connoisseur is quick to discover by
holding the page up to the light, and Is
especially noticeable in the case OF decorated
margins The new firm was not long In
running >uD against this very difnculty. Try
as 1t wo->, each page upon being held TO
the light. revealed that on one side the
Omaha daily bee., 1899-02-05

the flowers are very fresh. Remember that
there is regular market price for flowers
the same as for any other product and if
your florist offers you roses at so cents per
dozen when the market price is 81. you may
depend uron It they have been cut for some
days and will soon fade. There is no econ
omy in buying cheap flowers If they look
limp and the leaves dry, scared and gray,
they have either been cut for some time
or else they have not been properly cared
for and are scarcely worth carrying home.
as no amount Of nursing will preserve them
for any length of time.
The bright color the full juicy stem, Wig
orous leaves and firm bearing all bespeak
nature in her prime.
A florist who knows his business will
pack cut flowers so that they will receive
no injury from the clemens during trans
portation, but il one has to attend to this
ones self, it is well to know that paraffin
paper is the best protection in either win
ter or summer. Flowers wrapped in paraffin
paper and covered over with two sheets of
brown wrapping paper are well fortified
against Jack Frost. 1t is well to carry them
in box to prevent accidents, but If they
have long stems and are to be carried in
the hand the blossoms should hang down.
wards.
Before placing them in vases cut from the
end of each stem one sixteenth OF an inch
with sharp penknlfe-scissoTs nip the pores
together and prevent them absorbing nour-
ishment.
The vases should be carefully scalded and
then filled three quarters full of water into
which should be dropped five or six drops
of sulphate OF ammonia. This can be OBJ
tained from any chemist, and cents worth
will outlast many punches of flowers. Dur
ing the day the vases containing flowers
should be placed in the light away from
the heat and gas.
At night the stems should be sponged of
Omaha daily bee., 1899-02-05

figure in Afghan politics. Some years ago.
during the absence of the amir, she put
down a revolt in Kabul in heroic style.
Donning male garments, she led her troops
in person, heading a victorious charge. 1t
is quite on the cards, indeed, that the world
may yet see a queen on the Afghan throne.
So there's another way now open by which
woman "can earn her living" Keeper OF
miladis china closet! How does that sound
10 you? Well. that is the Office Mrs Astor
has created by becoming the possessor Of a
100000 china dinner set. Not one piece Of
china must touch anCther-no pilng Of
plates here, you see-not a particle Of dust
even is allowed to rest upon 1t for much
as overnight and 1t must be in constant
readiness FOR use against the coming Of tho
Omaha daily bee., 1899-02-05

guest who is worthy of such china. Not q
/ very laborious position, but think Of the re-
sponsibility! If piece should get cracked
or nicked or broken 1t would be enough to
turn ones hair white in Tiny
Mrs NJ Neming. recently appointed cura-
tor OF astronomical photographs, is the first
woman whose name has ever appeared in
the catalogue OF Harvard university among
the officers OF that institution. The
Photographic study of the heavens and espe-
caIly the photography Of star speotra has
been a notable feature OF the astronomical
work Of the Harvard observatory and the
director. Prof. Il. g. Pickering. has long had
the valuable assistance Of Mrs Flenlng.
She has not only acted as custodian in chief
OF the countless pictures taken in Cam
bridge and at the South American station
OF Harvard. but she has given to the Ilates
such careful scrutiny as TO enable her 20
make many interesting discoveries. She has
detected several new stars, merely by find
Ing peculiar spectra in the photographs; she
has elucidated a law relative to- variable
stars and has devoted a great deal OF at
tention to what are known to spectroscopists
as stars OF the fifth type. Mrs. Fleming has
a stan OF dozen women In her department.
OF tine observatory.
Omaha daily bee., 1899-02-05
WAS SPEAKER OF THE HOUSE.
Mrs. Lee is the First Woman to Pre-
side Over a LegiSlntiyc RndY


side Over a Legislative Body.
The first woman in the land to preside
over the deliberations of a legislative body
is Mrs. Frances S. Lee of Denver. Mrs.
Lee acted as speaker Of the house of repre-
sentatives in Colorado for a whole day last
week, and created most favorable impress
sion by her cool-headedness and her Impair
tial rulings Speaker Smith had something
to say on a measure before the house, so he
excused himself and called upon Mrs Lee.
one of the three women members of the
assembly, to assume the speakershlp. Many
difficult parliamentary points came up, but
Mrs. Lee proved herself equal to every
emergency, The speaker pro tenn, as she
has been unolicially termed, Is a slight
little woman of the brunette type with a
sweet, sympathetic and altogether attractive
face. While she welded the gavel 1t was
amusing to note the various me thods en-
ployed in addressing the chair, Several of
the members called her "Mr. Speaker" one
or two said MRS. Speaker" One of the
Denver members arose to make a motion,
but baked when he cast his eyes toward
the platform. 'Mr. Speaker, or 1 mean,
rather, Madame President" he observed.
The regular speaker, Mr. Smith, insisted on
saying Madame Speaker"
One of the rural representatives thought
Mistress President" sounded as well as
anything, and let 1t go at that.
II cannot describe my feelings, hardly,
while in the chair" said Mrs. Lee, when she
was asked a question on this point. at
was very much OF a trial to me- of course,
the first hour or two, especially. l felt as
though everybody in the house was looking
at me and crticlsing my every move and,
indeed, 1t was embarrassing to stand on the
platform, knowing that was the engineer Of
the house and responsible for its conduct.
A woman who has never presided over a
body of men, when excitement over a bill
Is at fever heat, cannot appreciate how much
tact and judgment are required to preserve
dignity in the chair, Not that l am pos
Omaha daily bee., 1899-02-05
PRESERVING cur FLOWERS.

How Roses and other blossoms Can
He Kept Fresh and sweet.
Ordinarily, cut flowers perish so rapidly
that during the cold weather they are out of
the reach of people with a moderate in
come.
The most delicate and fragile of bios
SONS, however, can be kept in good healthy
condition for month or six weeks If sys-
tematic care and attention is given to them.
The first precaution must be taken when
the purchase is made. Satisfy yourself that
Omaha daily bee., 1899-02-05

find In the very midst of our pine forests
this spot consecrated to the noble art OF
bookmaking, and to sit with the philosoph-
ers until the hours grow small talking of
those master minds whom TO serve in any
capacity is, to the reverent mind, royal
privilege.
Omaha daily bee., 1899-02-05

sessed of any tact. but I was enabled to
learn just how much is necessary in a posi-
tion like that
Mrs. Lee was elected to the house as a
labor delegate, though she was candidate
on the fusion ticket
Omaha daily bee., 1899-02-05
The Hot springs of Arknn.a..

The National health and pleasure resort:
Owned and controlled by u. s. Government
Elegant hotels, Eastman, Arlington, Park
Golf For information and booklets apply to
7. f. Godfrey l4th and Douglas sts..
Omaha.