The age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1897-1902, 1899-08-20
ENGLISH STYLES ARE IN VOGUE
French Influence Not Supreme The
Beauty of Southern Women and
Their Acknowledged Taste
in Dress In Society
BY ANNIE KENDRICK WALKER

new YORK. august B.--lSpecial Core
spondence.)- New York In summer is like
the serpent of old Nile, warm, luxurious.
fascinating. East Drive, to be sure is not
crowded with smart showing of traps,
and one has to go to the roof gardens in
sheer desperation, but although II is so
near the end of August and New York is at
its worst as far as fashionable life goes,
still there is the brilliant side in the very
life of the city itself, which is, I confess
quite gay and brilliant enough at the roof
garden of Waldorf-Astoria. I am not
going, however. to write of roof gardens to-
day, but of chat had this morning with
Monsieur Tailor, for am sure my women
readers are much more interested in Goth
am styles.
If the southern man has business that de-
tains him in New York week after week,
the southern woman now has the very best
excuse for prolongng her stay. for the
tailors here absolutely refuse TO make
gown unless madame will be able to come
for five or six fittings. I heard a we'll
known Broadway tailor this morning re-
fuse to make a dinner gown for young
matron who comes on every autumn for
her winter wardrobe. She intended leaving
New York next week, and could only have
one fitting. Monsieur Tailor. with low
bow, but a positive smile, calmly told mad
anne that he would not make the gown.
She implored him in her southern way. but
he in his French way still fatty declined.
so that she has fine excuse for remaining
and one which she declares she will use
to advantage. =
For one to be at peace and on good terms
with ones self and the outside world itSis
OF course necessary to have silk petticoat
and silk lined gown. For the coming SEED
son peace will be through the long coats,
the first of which are just being sent over
from Paris
The smart woman of the winter viii
wear for the street coat reaching to her
knees. 1t will be double-breasted, and Will
have a velvet collar. These coats are
really not unlike the overcoats worn by the
man of fashion. They are extremely grace
full. and will be made of the same material
as the skirt. The present mode of cltngtng
skirts will be exaggerated this autumn and
winter, and the skirts are to be untrimmed
and made with the habit back, which was
first introduced last autumn. The skirts
which the Gotham tailor showed me were.
ultra clingfng and fitted tight over the hips
and back. The flare at the bottom gave
the necessary fullness. Braidfngs and
stitching give of course a beautiful and
fashionable touch to outdoor garments.
Many of the handsomest gowns will be
trimmed with rows of stitching. The skirts
for indoors, as well as for the streets, will
continue to be cut with a short train. The
tight-fitting basques will be worn, and of
course the short fly front jackets will CON-
tinue popular, for every woman cannot af-
ford the long coats. The fashionable sleeve
will be tight fitting and quite long, and the
collars are still high and pointed in the
back.
It will be season of black. The ultra
fashionable woman will go in for all the
quiet colors, and the importers are already
showing the soft French grays and mode
shades. The simplicity which is akin to
severity in the styles for the autumn Is
rather surprising, since it comes presuma-
bly, from the gay Partisan capital. but the
fashion authorities in speaking of 1t claim
that it Is the English influence, rather than
French, which is to be supreme
The ultra styles, which are prophetic OF
winter, will be- as they always are, worn
by the ultra fashionable women. who can
afford to adapt the extreme ultra mode of
the day and discard it at any new Whit
from Paris. / was shown today a charm
ing outdoor garment in the shape of the
French Champs. 1t was to be sent to
beautiful American actress, and it chung
to the figure in that graceful way that
Cora Mquart Potter wears her long cloaks.
This cloak was not for Mrs. Potter, how
ever. The material was a smoot-faced
cloth with an exquisite French gray shade
trimmed with pearl buttons and fur. A
darker shade of velvet appliqued In mar
row designs, and the front was finished
with bands of fur reaching the entire
length of the cloak. With this was to be
worn a gray turban with a contrasting
shade of velvet to give it that adorable
touch known as chic. These long, ulster
like garments, understand, will be quite
the fashionable thing of the winter. The
Elton is being spoken of as holding its
own in popular favor, and I have seen a
number OF handsome gowns with the Elton
pockets, which will be sent to a party of
southern bellies who are coming up to New
York for the early autumn season. The
tailor gown holds pre-emtnently uninter-.
rupted sway. and the woman who possesses
gown bearing the mark of any WELL
known tailor enjoys a season of content
ment. The shirts to be worn with fancy
waists will be cut clinglng and also tight
fitting over the hips and back The open.
ing is on the left side, and the width will
not exceed three and a half yards.
The taffetas are not shown at all, having
indeed run their course a year ago. The
double-faced cloth Is greatly in vogue, the,
hem of the skirt being turned mp three or.
four inches and revealing the contrasting
color, which Is generally O modest plaid,
Plaid skirts are among the novelties of the,
early season and have not been out long,
enough to run their race In New York.
The silks and crepons are as obsolete as
the draped skirts. The light weight woods,
in mode and black and grey, the double
faced cloth, and the modest plaids are
being made up for skirts for serviceable
wear. 80
Some charming peignoirs were to be sent
south. One was in pale lilac berege. The
yoke was of shrred chiffon and finished
with a double all of French lace, which
extended down the front Another morn
ing gown was of white berege that old
fashioned material that our grandmothers
wore. The yoke was appliqued in fine
black lace in a zigzag design and this, too.
was finished with a fall of lace reaching
below the knee. A curious appliqued de-
sign In black lace was put on as frill at
the bottom. The petticoat was a befrilied
sffafr. entirely of valencieene lace These