Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-09-23
New Hats Laden With Birds and
Plumage.
MIROIR VELVET AND SATIN PANNE
Toques Are Much Larger and Bon
nets Smaller.
STEEL AND GILT ORNA MENTS
lpecIal Corr, spondence Of The Evening Star.

special Core spondence Of The Evening Star.
PARIS, September o, 1890
The autumn hats now appearing are lit
orally fashionable aviaries. They are laden
with birds and plumage. From the fact
that the Princess of Wales and her daugh-
tiers had decided to no longer wear osprey
plumes it was hoped that there would be
some lessening in the quantity of wings
and feathers and aigrets piled upon smart
millinery. Instead Paris seems to be try
ing to show its hostile independence to the
decisions of the lady who sets the fashions
for all English and most American society.
The extent to which the bird of paradise
plumes are worn is said to threaten the
speedy extinction of that bird yet bird of
paradise plumes wave with insolent pro-
fusion on the hats displayed for autumn
wear For my part, a face surmounted by
the savages ornamental plumage has al
ways a suggestion of the cruelty of the
savage in its expression.
Kid is being used for hat trimming; it is
coored to match the gown and has been
quite favorably received. The cabriolet hat
is one of the shapes whose popularity seems
assured not only for autumn, but for Win
ter, when it will appear in felt and velvet.
The canotier, with its wide bTim, is an
other pleasing shape. The wide brims pro-
tect the face well from the sunshine. One
hat of this style of blue straw trim
med with bands of silk, with two choux of
the silk placed one above the ether at the
side of the hat from each of the chouX
spraug a feather.
Soft Felt Popular.
For winter wear felt promises to be much
In demand. The cloth colored Spanish tur-
bans will have vogue all their own. the
cloth as rule matching the material of
the gown. The woolly cloth with which
some of the capotes are covered is decided
T., n IL, CHI fhny, al1ras
not strikingy original, most of the fall hats
being neither very large nor very small
nor yet strikingly new Looking over the
show cases one is impressed by the pre-
ponderance of dull puppies, dull blues and
pastel reds and browns. Where the more
expensive felt hats are concerned, the best
milliners are making them over wired
frame. the felt being cut out to suit any
model that the maker may have in her
minds eye.
Hats trimmed with fittings are still seen
These flutings are applied to the hats as
trimming and consist of velvet or silk with
rows of stitching about the edges. Both
velvet and felt lavshly adorned with
rows of machine stitching. One cannot but
notice that the capotes or toQues are larger
than we have been used to. They are trim
med quite high, the trimming being
ranged to especially favor one side Of the
hat.
COIOrs to Select.
OF colors, castor brown, emerald. gray
peony pink, dark blue, violet, lavender, per-
venche, turquoise and sky blue, pinkish
mauve, violet and gray greens are some of
the probably popular colors There seems
to be a tendency toward subdued tints
those of the pastel variety being especially
favored There are some models in black
and also some in white, but these decided
effects not much seen as they were
q season two ago.
Flowers are frequently seen on the WIN
ter hats The majority of them have a de-
ci6ed tilt to the brim which is in many
cases supported by a cluster of velvety
blossoms. roses or violets generally. The