davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-05-21

fon and lace are among the very ~prettiest Of
the season. and here is q pretty model with
chiffon rufles edged with a ruche on the skirt,
chiffon sleeves and vest. with a lace bodice
made with a bolero effect in front. A wide
band OF lace e%ncircles the sleeves. caught to-
Rether with straps Of black velvet. which APP
pear again on the shoulders.
Another very elaborate model in pale yellow
grenadine has rows upon rows OF cream lace
insertion. edged with a howknot design in
mauvc and white gathered baby ribbons. which
trim the sleeves and yoke. White guipure
over black silk forms the under bodice. skirt
made with a tunic OF pale ecru nuns yelling
striped with bands of bright red silk. Large
crystal buttons fasten the bodice.
The blouse waist asserts itself once again In
the lace department. where it blooms in great
variety, and its usefulness is beyond question,
since. like the silk blouse. 1t Is worn with all
kinds Of skirts. Among the models illustrated
there is one quite plain. fastened on the shout
der and under the arm. and another more
~fanciful, made OF LuNcuil lace over pale green
silk. finished with shaded mauve ribbon bows
and belt.
Fancy thin waists Of hatiste. silk muslin and
sheer lawn add infinite variety to the list Of
these drcssy g garments so much sought after,
and hero is one Of rose pink dotted silk
muslin. trimmed with motifs OF Gcru lace.
Another model in batiste has O lace yoke,
below which are upright insertions and groups
oftucks' Insertions running around between
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-05-21

white linen yslstcosst; A whits c9llss; whit.
compIete the smart costume, With this dress
no cap. is. worn. and the hair ie brushed
amoothly back from the face. braided and
pinned neatly 70 the, back Of the head.
During the day the butler assumes a very
fetching coiored livery, consisting OF a dark
blue or brown skirt with a band OF red or yell
low material let in about q foot above the hem,
q wyaistcoat, buttoning, TO the chin: Of e;riped
red and white or yellow and white cloth. and
upon thisa an Elton jacket to match the skirt
ornamented with six gilt buttons and, cuffs
and collar to accord with the skirts band. The
iootwoman, who assists in serving meals. a..
bell, wears a less decorative but quite as smart
q costume. IL is brown. blue or green cloth:
q, color above the hen. z short close
buttons. a white turn-down collAr. white cuffs
aud scrupulously tidy hair. For reception
afternoons and for dinners she gets into 90 fair
and crisp a shirt as the butler With a low
adorned with bright cuffs. collar and buttons.
These women are required to wear low shoes
Of pump shape In the evening: they. are always
addressed by their surnames. and they are
likely to prove treasures OF comfort TO the
mietreSa,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-05-21

The very latest thing in dress trimmings are
the fringes which decorate the nuns yelling
gowns with especial grace. Arranged in shawl
drarery. with fringe on the edge matching the
yelling in color. the effect Is charming. Tom
Thumb frlnGcs arc more and more in evidence.
and a novel use Of them Is seen In a yelling
gown. trimmed around the overdress with d
deep band Of tafreta silk Of the same color as
the yelling. On this band there are tiny bands
OF, velvet. a shade darker. on the lower edge OF
Several rows OF the fringe sewn close together
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-05-21

tulle combines all tho tints on the bodice. and
the sleeves and chemise,te are Of lace.
A black and white foulard model shows a
decoration of Maltese lace insertion. Fittings
Of narrow black Nalenciennes and p~laitings Of
black chiffon. Tho combination gowns OF chif-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-05-21
FIRST OF ALL Is LACE.
Every Costume Has Some
Touch of 1t This Season.
FASHIONS CHIEF CAPRICE.
5eGty and Fascinating Effects
Seen in the Newest Gowns.

Lace the Most Feminine OF All Trimmings
and the Most Elegant II It Is Realize
coming Also to All women-Lace Fichus,
Boleros, Houses and Gowns In High
ssa Overwhelming Gowns Altogether
charminE md different from the Dismal
Costumes OF spanish Lace Worn Years
Ago-Fetching Combination with Cloth
and siik-The Fancy for n Decorated
surface-TrimininRs of the Season.
Dame Fashions distinctive caprice this sea-
son 10 a decorated surface. and while there are
various ways Of accom- plishing this much de-
sired effect II IS something dainty and refined
In almost all cases. There is decoration Of
some sort from the crown OF hor pretty head to
the tips OF hcr slippers. and quito the prettiest.
most luxurious illustration Of this fancy comes
In the lace gowns. which are the height Of ele-
gance just at the moment.
Never In the history OF fashion has there
been anything else quito so enduring as the
use OF lace. 1t Is the most feminine OF all the
trimmings. most elegant II 1t Is real. and II Is
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-05-21

Lace fchus. boleros. blouses and eowns are
the leading features OF fashion. rather than
the exception. this season. and lace robes In
either black or white can be purchased all
ready to hang over a satin or silk slip. It IL
simple thing to make up ono Of these lace
robes without any lining. except possibly
one OF chiffon. and wear 1t over different ool-
ored slips. making a pretty variety in your
wardrobe without very much additional OK
pense. This is also a pretty idea for the cream
lace blouse 50 much worn. and the chiffon lining
b not ct all necessary. 1t softens the effect
both in color and texture. but quite as many
lace blouhes and gowns are made without this
interlining Of chiffon. Satin and tAfieta
are both employed. the former being most
effective In white under the cream lace. Tho
most satisfactory way Of making the lining 10
TO have a deep oorselet-shaped foundation OF
taffeta silk or lawn In which all tho w%halebonOs
are incased. thus avoiding the necessity Of any
seams in the satin. except one under the arm.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-05-21
PRILLS OF FASHION.

A new canvas OF silk and linen comes in
lively colors. electric blue being especially de-
sirablc when trimmed with appliques Of gut
pure lace. White muslin and lace insertion
run through with narrow black velvet ribbon
form the very effective vest. with tiny gold
buttons down the front.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-05-21

groups OF tucks nre not new, but it Is always q
pretty mode Of trimming for q slender person.
Another bodice OF white ~taffctH. tucked, shows
lace insertions encircling the lower portion.
up and down over tho shoulders. and crossed
on the sleeves. A dainty white muslin blouse
10 wear over different silk slips il trimmed
prettily with tucks and Nalenciennes insertion
arranged TO form the entire front.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-05-21

ton OF pale green silk. The lace is divided In
the middle Of the back and at the sides like
panels, showing the gauze skirt between.
Folds of green velvet outline the square-cut
mock and form the belt.
The revival of point d'esprit as a fashionable
dress material helps out the scheme for trans
parent effects. and when it Is decorated with
real lace applique designs 1t makes charming
gowns. without the lace applique 1t is very
pretty trimmed with insertions and. lace
edged plaitings on frills OF satin ribbon. and ia
especially desirable for young girls.
The fancy for a decorated surface is exempli-
fed again in the robe gowns OF jewelled net
and black mousseline de sole. we'll covered
with a Renaissance lace design. White satin.
cut out In various patterns and applied TO lace
with embroidery stitches. Is another mode Of
decoration. and again we see handsome. soft
brocaded silks made transparent by an ap-
plique Of lace forming the centre OF each
flower. Tafreta silks. embroidered In small
but open conventional designs. have bios
sorned out among tho latest importations in
the most up-to-date manner.
The use OF lace as q trimming on all kinds
and conditions Of gowns is so universal that
anything, novel in the disposition Of 1t seems
hardly possible. but here is a gown shown in
the illustration with panels Of applique lace on
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-05-21

on tnF RIEe OF INC 0OIICs Where 1T 1nT1s over
the vest make a very soft, effective trimming.
Toile. which is a new kind OF linen very pop
ular in Paris, makes pretty summer gowns.
hyacinth blue and ecru being the fayorite coll
ors. 1t is made up over a silk foundation and
trimmed deliberately with yellow Cluny lace
insertions. the linen being cut away under
meath to show the silk through.
Taffeta silk gowns trimmed with cloth bands
are one of tho early spring novelties and seem
to be gaining in favor. Lncrustat,ons OF cloth
combined with the cloth decoration.
White batistc. patterned with n design in
Cashmere colors and trimmed with Brussels
laco insertion and edginR. makes one of the
S En;,a ,str snwn asd 81 IN the season; - Il Il Is is made y oyer
with white batiste edged with lace.
Narrow bias folds OF Persian foulard trim
some otthe hatiste gowns.
All the shades Of the primrose are a pretty
note in the fashionable scale Of colors. Prim-
roses trim our hats and primrose chiffon
sashes add a quaint effect to our simple mus
lin gowns.
A pretty novelty IL the feather bon, made of
plumes delicately tinted with all the colors OF
an opal.
Blue in every shade is the leading color in
millinery. and the special novelties are tho
combinations OF violet anu forget me-nOt blue
lud brown with blue,
Tailur-mahe gowns Of taffeta silk are the
latest now lty.
Lowering he waist line to bring it Town to
a point in front Is one OF the new features Of
the latest modes.
Buckles and clasps In dull gold and platinum
mixed are very much worn. steel buckles. too.
in a very open pattern decorate the belts Of the
lace gowns. In, the long diamond shape the
belt has one at the hack as well as the front.
Automobile red. trimmed with cream lace, is
a fashionable combination for the Partisan
gown.
HydranGcn blossoms trim the summer hats,
and when The pale blue tint Is combined with
the pink lilac shades the effect is charming.
Racing coats. dust cloaks. or a long garment
OF some sort are the modish thing in Paris for
coaching and travelling about. They ara a sort
Of rehingo'e. sometimes trailing d quarter of a
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-05-21

plain. fastening on the shoulder scam. around
the armhole and down the side. Again the
opening Is at one side OF the bust. whore the
edge Is finished with a chiffon ruche. and
fastens with one. two or three rosette bows,
with q rhinestone ornament in the centre. One
rather large bow OF colored ribbon to match
the belt Is also very effective. The lightweight
guipure lace 10 a popular kind for the lace
blouse. but the finer. thinner laces are very
much used. when the chiffon interlinlng Is often
q pretty addition. as 1t adds to the soft effect.
The charming possibilities Of lace are
brought out this season with all the variations
imaginable. and certainly women need not be
approached with extravaganza even II they IN
dulge In an entire lace gown. since It can be
made to serve so many purposes. For example
one OF the models shown In the illustration can
be transformed into an evening gown In a few
moments by ripping out tho sleeves and yoke.
which Ii transparent. The lace Is cut to form
Q small epauletts over the shoulders. and this.
with . little drapery of lace underneath. Is SUI
nelent for the fashionable evening sleeve.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-05-21

back. with just enough fulness at the belt to
give them a slightly loose effect.
The lace may be fulled q very little at the
shoulder seam In front to give more fulness
over the bust II needed. and laid in a few small
plaits with the satin at the belt; but quite as
often It Is put in plain on the shoulders. the
slight pouch effect at the waist being all that
10 needed. Some OF these waists are quite
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-05-21

Manila hats are the swell thing for morning
wear in midsummer They come in white ant
colors. and are trimmed with dotted whit
gauze and quilts.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-05-21

,A.pretty fan for summer lie made Of fancy
plated chiffon. giving almost the effect OF
feathers.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-05-21

yard on the ground. and made OF taffeta silk.
cloth or ponge They cross surplice fashion.
fastening at the left side OF the belt. and rows Of
Stitching are the popular trimming. ,Broohe
Enrlish womsD for tbasa : arm nfs and later
In tho season they will be made OF silk muslin.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-05-21

Foulard gowns ore trimmed with ruchlngs
and plaitings OF mousseline de sole In combi-
ture OF materials il q plain foulard skirt
ruhied with silk muslin and worn with q crepe
dc chine tunic.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-05-21

Racing coats. dust cloaks. or a long garment
Of some sort are the mOdish thing in Paris for
coaching and travelling about. They are a sort
Of rehingote. sometimes trailing d quarter OF a
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-05-21

Taffeta silk gowns trimmed with cloth bands
are one of the early spring novelties and seem
to DO gaining in favor. demonstrations Of cloth
on the silk are alsO seen. and fuulards, too, are
combined with the cloth decoration.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-05-21

Automobile red. trimmed with cream lace, is
a fashionable combination for the Partisan
gown.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-05-21

always worn in some degree: but 1t 10 only
within the past year that 1t has assumed 80
dominant a position In the world Of dress.
Every costume has some touch OF It. and for
those to whom real lace Ia an impossibility
there Is an endless variety Of pretty limitations.
In the fret place. lace is the refinement OF
decoration. the crowning charm to any article
OF dress. II it is we'll chosen. and. besides. the
modistes have discovered that 1t is more be-
coming to all women than any other one thing
they can offer. which in itself is a pretty good
guarantee Of its continued popularity: women
are slow to discard anything which improves
their appearance. Fashion has q reputation
for being capricious. but here and there she
ciings to a fancy like the traditional vine. and
lace Is one OF her permanent hobbies.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-05-21

on the edge Of the bodice where it falls over
the vest make a very soft. effective trimming.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-05-21

Buckles and clasps In dull gold and platinum
mixed are very much worn, steel buckles. too.
in a very open pattern decorate the belts OF the
lace gowns, In. the long diamond shape the
belt has one at the hack as well as the front.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-05-21

White batiste. patterned with n design in
Cashmere colors and trimmed with Brussels
lace insertion and edginR. makes one of the
smartest gowns Of the season. 1t is made over
white ~taffeta, and the skirt Is rufied at the feet
with white batiste edged with lace.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-05-21

Lowering he waist line to bring It down I
APPOINT IN front is one OF the new features {
the latest modes.
The semi-weekly messenger. [volume] (Wilmington, N.C.) 1897-1908, 1899-07-28
NEWSFROM MANILA
General Otis Sends Three Gable Messages to
the War Department.
RETURN OF VOLUNTEERS BEGUN

in
The Italian Representative Again at State Depart.
ment-Report on Ravages of Grasshoppers n
sissipp-Senator Stuart to Prevent
Vacancies n
The semi-weekly messenger. [volume] (Wilmington, N.C.) 1897-1908, 1899-07-28
CUBA'S SCOURGE
So General Gomez CharacteriZes the
S3.OOO,OOO Furnished the soldiers BY
the United states

Havana, July 26.-In an interview
with General Gomez, printed in La
Lucha today, the Cuban commander is
quoted as saying
Never has a plague more afflicting
fallen Cuba than the $4,000, 600 asked
from President Mckinley for the Cuban
soldiers. The money has been the
cause of i'll will among those who, by
right and justice, should be eternally
united.
The history Of the money is curious.
1t was thought at first that it ought
not to have been received, as it was
dishonor to the Cubans. This aspect is
changed now, and it should cause pain
to see wandering through Havana SOL
diers begging for what it was supposed
they would refuse with serenity.
THE formation of the supplementary
list of persons incapacitated in the war
and the work of payment has already
cost $4,000. This money was furnished
by Governor General Brooke, as the
Cubans do not possess the ground
upon which they tread. Those who do
not know the work and the expense in
volved are naturally impatient and
hold responsible some one who in no
way helped to get the money nor asked
any one to receive it.
Those whose names appear on the
supplementary lists should not be paid
before those on the original lists, so as
to preserve order.
"AS the money was the gift of the
American government, I am panied at
the interest shown by my soldiers, who
were trained to go hungry on their
march to liberty. The republic will
pay them, but when is uncertain. I'm
patience will not further matters
Ell DiariO de la Marina says editO-
rally in today's issue that the working
classes in Havana are in very bad con-
dition. The cost of living in the city is
high, owing to the extravagant ten,
dencies of the upper classes having
raised prices. The upper classes have
been able to get money easily, the pa
per says, on account of the natural
richness of the Cuban soil, but the ne
cessities of life, including the securing
of clean, comfortable houses, are out
of reach of the poor, who, therefore,
are forced to live under bad, unhealth-
full conditions, although they are fairly
we'll paid.
The semi-weekly messenger. [volume] (Wilmington, N.C.) 1897-1908, 1899-07-28
AN ASSASSlN'S WORK
The President of san Domingo Murs
dered-Rfs Assafiant Escapes

Ine freAlOeuI S0u DO"lugO
dered-Ris Assaiiant Escapes
Fort de France, Island of Martinique,
July 26.-General Ulises Heureaux,
president of the Domican republic,
was assassinated at Poca, Santo Do
mingo, at 4:30 o'clock this afternoon.
The name of the murderer is Ramon
.Caceros. He succeeded in making his
escape, but an energetic pursuit was
at once begun and it is probable he
will soon be captured.
The vice president, General Wen
coslao, upon the announcement of the
presidents death, assumed the direction
of affairs. At present calmness pre-
walls everywhere in the republic.
The remains of President Heureaux
will probably be taken to Santo Do
mingo for funeral services.
Washington, July 26.-No informa-
tion was received up to $3.50 o'clock
tonight from the consular representa-
tives of the United States in Santo Do
mingo regarding the assassination
there today of President Heureaux.
Pending official adVices of the assassi-
nation no formal action will be taken
by this government. Hon. w. F.
Powell, the minister to Hayti, is also
charge d'affaires to Santo Domingo,
while this government, is directly rep
resented in the republic in the person
of Campbell L. Maxwell, who is consul
general, and John A Read, who is vice
consul. Officials here recall that at
tempts have been made heretofore on
the life of Mr.. Heureaux.
Secretary Hay paid brief tribute to
the work of the deceased president,
saying he understood that he had CIV
en- the country a good administration.
Secretary Long said he could not re-
call that there were any ships Of the
United States navy now in Santo Do
mingo waters.
Should the developments Of the next
few days show a feeling of unrest and
uncertainty regarding the future af-
fairs of the island a United States man
of-war will be dispatched to that vi
cinity to look out for the protection
of American interests.
The semi-weekly messenger. [volume] (Wilmington, N.C.) 1897-1908, 1899-07-28

Barboursville, KY, July 26.-The
Clay county clans are gathering here
for the trial of Wiley and James Baker
which is set for tomorrow. Among the
arrivals are John and Daugh White
and James F. Marcum, who are inter
ested in the prosecution Of the Bakers.
The Baker-Howard-W White factions are
on better terms tonight than for many
years. 1t is said that a compromise
is being affected and If it goes through
Wiley and James Baker will not be
prosecuted.
If the factions are armed there Is 10
indication of it and peaceful settle
ment of the Clay county war is ex-
Dected.
The semi-weekly messenger. [volume] (Wilmington, N.C.) 1897-1908, 1899-07-28
The Epworth League Song Book Con.
troyersy

Indianapolis, Ind, July 25.-The con-
troversy over the retention Of royalties
form song books by Edwin A. Schall
was settled today by the board OF con-
troll of the Epworth League meeting.
The board finds that Mr.. Schall, gen.
eral secretary of the Epworth League,
committed a serious official wrong, but
owing to his assurance that he had no
wrong intention, and his promise that
he would avoid further offense, the
board deemed it inadvisable to proceed
further in the case.
Seven members OF the board voted
against dropping the investigation and
asked that their names be recorded.
After the Schall matter had been dis
posed of, the board appointed a COM
mittee of the most prominent men Of
it's number to confer with other young
peoples societies with the view toward
bringing about a closer federation OF
the three international young peoples
organizations.
The board will continue in session
tomorrow
The semi-weekly messenger. [volume] (Wilmington, N.C.) 1897-1908, 1899-07-28
Fearful Work OF a Maniac

Brazil, Ind, July 26.-Charles Wolf
angel became violently insane last night
at his home in Denmark, south Of here,
and ctorr ed his two daughters aud wife
to deatL with a hatchet while they
were sleeping. He then cut his own
threat.
awakene9 when her sister wa: killed.
as evidences of a struggle were appar-
en-. One of Woffageis daughters IS
staying with Alexander Mccullough,
near Asheville. Wolfangel called at
McCollongh's last Sunday and request
ed his daughter to accompany hIni
home. The girl called on Mr.. McCui-
lough To shield her from her fa.hCr 8
wrath, and he did so by driving Wolf
angel from his house.
The nnl Geced children We're and IL
years Old.
The semi-weekly messenger. [volume] (Wilmington, N.C.) 1897-1908, 1899-07-28

cuts, bruises, sprains, wounds from
RUSTY nails, insect stings and ivy pois-
oning-quickly healed by DeWitts
Witch Hazel Salve. Positively prevents
blood poisoning. Beware of counter
feits. "DeWitt's is safe and sure. r. r.
Bellamy.
The semi-weekly messenger. [volume] (Wilmington, N.C.) 1897-1908, 1899-07-28

A diseased stomach surely under
mines health. It dulls the brain, kills
energy. destroys the nervous system.
and predisposes to insanity and fatal
diseases. All dyspeptic troubles are
quickly cured by Kodol Dyspepsia
Cure. It has cured thousands Of cases
and is curing them every day. It's in
gradients are such that II can't help
curing. r. r. Bellamy.
The semi-weekly messenger. [volume] (Wilmington, N.C.) 1897-1908, 1899-07-28

Thomas Rhoads, Centerf1eld. O.,
writes: ST suffered from piles seven or
eight years. No remedy gave me relief
until DeWitt's Witch Hazel Salve,
less than a box Of which permanently
cured me-" Soothing. healing, perfect
ly harmless. Beware Of counterfeits
r. r. Bellemy. IL
The semi-weekly messenger. [volume] (Wilmington, N.C.) 1897-1908, 1899-07-28

Arrangements are complete for Sat
urday's big base ball game with the
Maxton Red Shirts" and our boys
are getting ready for the fray.
The game is to be a daisy, and chock
full of ginger. Fort Caswelrs crack
twirler, Heiser, and Dupree, new ac-
QUESTION, will attend to the box work
for Wilmington.
The semi-weekly messenger. [volume] (Wilmington, N.C.) 1897-1908, 1899-07-28
Especial to the Messenger.)

What might have been''-if that lit
tie cough hadn't been neglected-A the
sad rejection Of thousands OF con-
sumptives. One Minute Cough Cure
cures coughs and colds. r. R. Bellamy.