The record-union., 1899-05-14

India muslin. or Swiss muslin, bordered
with airy frills Of the goods, with a
yoke of guipure lace, insertion bands
on the fronts and sleeves, the garment
reaching to the very edge of the demi-
trained underskirt at the back. This
style would be attractive in black net,
grenadine, or pink batiste, with a lace
.fchu ON the bodice portion, lace ruffles
on the elbow sleeves, and lace-edged
frills on the underskirt.
Chiffon, mousseline de sole and all
the other very light transparent tex
tiles reappear as leading adjuncts for
dressy gowns and toilets of every de-
scription. A much better choice IS
point d'esprit or some of the strongly
woven black and cream nets. Although
inexpensive in price, chiffon is, in the
end, more costly than many grades of
really handsome lace, because it can
not be cleaned, and because it requires
such frequent renewal. For the wealthy
who can afford to discard a garment
the moment it loses its charm of fresh
ness, these light fabrics are dainty and
becoming, but like countless other lux
uries, they are not for those who must
stop to count the cost of purchase.
Some of the most stylish of the fancy
waists of the season are of all black
or all white silk, or of white taffeta
or faille barred, dotted or striped in
black satin. There is an immense
range of garnitures appropriate for
these waists, but there are few trim
mings more effective or becoming than
black velvet ribbon or narrow or me-
dunn width, with scarf of rich white
| lace at the throat
| On many of the new light, faced
| cloth tailor costumes for the summer
Misunderstanding and cloth strappinGs
seem to be giving way to a somewhat
more fanciful trimming of rows of silk
or mohair braid, with buttons to- match.
No matter what the season is, the one
indispensable gown in the wardrobe is
a tailor-finished costume of good prac-
teal wearing fabric There are many
| cool days and evenings during the
summer when they prove most COM
! Portable, and they are never out OF
| place during a railway journey, any
more than is a gentleman'S summer
tweed or serge suit; for, if the weather
proves sultry, the jacket can be re-
moved, and the wearer be as com.
Portable as possible in the wash silk
or lawn shirt waist worn beneath. The
skirt is more serviceable if it is made
/ of cloth or wool of some description
that will not easily wrinkle or spot, and
many light woods are really more en-
durable and actually cooler than close
ly woven linen or pique
The new toques are wider than they
have been in many seasons. The sim
pie 'Trelawny'' is one of the latest
styles. Bent front and back in a down
ward direction, it is raised on either
side. Like most of the new millinery il
is trimmed with pillows of tule in two
or three contrasting colors, or else
there is a maybe mixture of black and
white lace, with a long floating feather
aigrette as a finish Fashionable hat
trimmings are of the most ephemeral
kind, and while the effect is dainty and
the style most becoming, a damp at
mosphere or few raindrops will
greatly mar their appearance. and the
slightest compression ruin them ire
IrleVaOly.
The dressrnakers are just now an
! swering many questions concerning
| dress Innings for summer gowns. Silk is,
Of course, always first choice, not merely
because it is fashionable, but for the
better reason that no other fabric
proves such comfortable wear, or will
produce such soft, easy-flowing lines,
or retain its original shape SO perfect
ly. 1t is far better to purchase a 60
cent wooden fabric and a dollar lining
silk than to pay 60 cents for the silk
and a dollar for the outside material.
| Percaline is considered by the dress
makers one of the most enduring and
satisfactory substitutes for silk in a
gown of wool, and French lawn under
organdie, batiSte, or other transpar-
emf fabric. Sateen in colors is liked by
many modistes, also silesia of the finer
grades. Very few shot or fancy silks
are now used for Innings, and while
pale tints or vivid puppies or reds are
seen on certain gowns, to carry out a
special color scheme, preference is de-
cidedly given to the refined selection
| of lining silk of a deeper or slightly
| lighter shade than that of the gown.