The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1899-12-22

and the sailor hat are forgotten IN the
glories of the theatre bodice and the
house waist. Vi
And well may they be forgotten for
fhe colors and fabrics are so beautiful
that one looks at ~theni-iike the lover in
the old song-"and anguish steals into
ones heart"
YET the sight need not necessarily be
one of anguish. The materials are not
so very expensive, and as for color, why,
color is cheap.
In buying a bodice never under any
consideration invest in cheap, bright fab
rics. If economy be the keynote let the
material be subdued for by some law OF
color and material, darker shades look
much richer than light ones. 1t is strange
but true. A cheap pink never looks rich.
But a cheap dark blue or a cheap brown
or a dark inexpensive gray are always
in good taste.
II is A spangled season over here. Se-
ou;ns. lets. steel and silver glisten on
tbe bodices. they shine like diamonds'
and are exceedingly becoming in the
night.
with a dark gray satin skirt, trimmed
with nm applique OF black lace, there
WAS worn at d NCAy III
other day. a bodice of Persian velvet
with gray ground. Persian Is sprihhleu
with so many and such brilliant colors
and you can scarce describe II 70 ~
who has not seen it. 1t is rather TOO
much worn, and yet its variety ls sueA
that you do not tire OF It. ~
The Persian velvet bodice with tne
gray ground was thickly sprinkied "llh
interviewer particles Of blue, giving q c0iu'
slaty look to the material.
# was trimmed with white satin lapeis
dotted with silver sequins, the iapeis peins
continued below the waist 1t nad d VSis
snug white satin vest with the tlnlese vest
of white chiffon set in. The collar was Oh
white chiffon folded fiat in alternate rows
of satin and chiffon. /.
The cuff was cut from a single piece OF
the goods, carefully folded before being
cut. and made up in such a way tnat the
seam came at the outside. The inner
mart of the cuff was lined with pale blue
satin. and the edges were bordered WIN
the narrowest band of black satin RIBBON.
The hat was entirely novel. 1t was IN
the form of a small toque of white satin
and chiffon, trimmed at the front with
two immense pompons, one of silk ana
the other of chiffon.
The exceeding prettiness of this very
nice afternoon calling gown was such as
to excuse its cost, which was consider
able. AS a calling gown it could be worn,
or as a reception dress. 1t might also
figure as a model design for the bride at a
church wedding.
So great is the vogue for the bodice,
separate, yet to match, that brides who
do not get married in white satin are
wearing their separate bodices and
skirts when the nuptial knot is tied.
Those who, in their blindness, sup
posed that the end of all novelties in
waists la come. rave a surprise in store
for them in the La Loie bodice which can
he worn i'm a separate waist or can match
the skirt.
Fancy a leaf green figured taffeta em-
broidered with a black vine which takes
it way over the material in the old fash
Toned style, familiar to our grandparents
Perhaps in an old siiken quilt you may
have a s.block'' of green taffeta embroi-
dered with a vine in this self same way
This bodice is open in front 20 reveal q
broad vest. It has iapels that turn smart
~ back and is trimmed around the sleeves
and bust with bands of black velvet RIB
bon.
The vest, yoke and lapels are of white
Liberty silk covered with Brussels lace.
The bodice and vest are separate and
the yoke goes on over all.
OF new skirts there is likewise no end.
One has a strange cut down the 'front.'
by which the opening zigzags in Grecian
style, zach point being secured with am
eraameled button.
At a Christmas house party TO be given
by the COUNTESS de Castealane at her
county place, there will be many beautl-
full COSTUMES. A fashionable couturiere
has been building a bodice of the most
beautiful pastel blue taffeta. 1t IS a
bodice in several parts. OF two materials,
these being pastel blue taffeta and Renais-
sance lace. The collar, yoke and sleeve
caps are of the taffeta beautifully stitched
with silk of the same shade. The tiniest
square of Renaissance lace is set in the
Ieck.
An eccentric vest Of Renaissance lace
was set in front of the bodice. Instead Of
extending from the neck to the belt, like
the regulation vest, it extends across the
bodice Ill a broad band, reaching from
armhole to armho4e. Below the vest the
bodice is finished with the stitched taffeta.
1t is the most elegant of all the new
designs. and has the added advantage
Of being suitable for a slim or a stout
person. alike.
Skirts while separate" partake Of the
tone of the bodice. You see the tiny PIN
striped silk worn with the pastel blue bod
ices. The same color note pervades the
gown. Black skirts are worn scarcely at
all with brilliant waists.
A word may be said about the diagrams
which accompany these pictures. They
are accurately drawn, though they are toe
small to be used directly as a pattern
They afford, however, an excellent guide,
Take a piece of brown paper, cut it the
shape of the tiny diagram, and apply 1t to
the top of your sleeve, until you have a
sleeve cap which fits your arm. Better
still, experiment with calico, which is
more pliable than paper and takes a more
becoming shape.
So with the yoke front. If you lave a
throw-away waist o can experiment
upon it until you have a yoke front
which fits you. The collar is still more
easily managed, but remember always to
experiment with a pattern before cutting
into your goods.
The modiste who kindly consented tc
map out these diagrams prepares them
FIR ali parts of the world. She outlines