davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1899-07-15
Fashions Keep Pace With Latter
day Politics.
REVIVAL OF. THE OLD-FIME FICHU
Lace Jackets and Long Earrings
Popular Again.
CHIFFON AND TULLE BOAS
Special correspondence of The Evening Star.

Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
PARIS. July 1.-Fashionable Paris is
much agitated politically. fact that may
have much to do with the active interest
1t is evincing in the matter of dress. When
ever the Parisians are profoundly moved
they affect double care in things modistic
and the world that does not understand the
working of the Galic mind credits them
with a lack of seriousness Il frivolity and
lghmess in aims which they far from
deserving. The Castellanes, with their am
bi-ious to replace sober, sensible. good-na-
turcd President LOubet with one of the lit
tie bargain counter remnants of royalty
that in France are always cCurting the dis
tinclion of being made over into kings, are
not typical of the best circles. While the
Old noblesse would doubtless not be averse
to the return of monarchy, most of them
are wise enough to know in the light OF
the past that the rise of new king means
the rise of a new nobility, the Bonapartists
and the Orleans and the BOurbons having
4 host of new favCrites who would come
In for the fat places under the government
rather than themselves. Therefore the
ladies of the proudest houses of old France
are not in any way aGitating themselves,
but are rather content1ng themselves with
Evening star., 1899-07-15
SEPARATE SKIRTS.
1t is Now Possible to Buy Them in
Any Store.

From Harper's Bazaar.
A few years ago it was impossible to buy
in any shop in New York a separate skirt.
1t was necessary in order to secure the
skirt to buy the whole costume-either
waist and skirt or coat and skirt-but now
that the separate waists have become part,
and most important part, of every wo-
mans wardrobe, the separate skirts have
appeared, and in every sort and kind of
material, and at every conceivable price, so
that it is possible to buy a skirt that will
cost S15 to 800, and even more, at any one
of the large shops, at the same shop to
invest in very good-looking skirt for as
little as S3 or 81, or even less, on bargain
cay. There is a great deal of indifference
in the ready-made skirts. Many Of them
are perfectly possible regards the shape
and material: others, which look vastly
more ornate and have rows of insertion,
and are most elaborately fashioned, are
very bad cut, and can never be made to
hang we'll In buying any OF these skirts
it is well to remember that materials like
duck, pique and linen all shrink, and that
at the price at which the skirts are sold
the material could never have been shrunk
in advance. so that ii is often best to buy
a size too large, and to have it washed be-
fore wearing it rather than to attempt to
have it altered before it is Numbered.
The circular skirt is the favorite. but a
style that has two attached flounces is
front breadth and circular sides. the seams
down the front breadth being outlined with
open-work embroidery These in linen are
particularly good, but in white pique or
duck do not launder quite SO well when
the skirt is plain.
The black pique skirts are much more ex-
pensive than the white, but are extremely
useful garments. They are, as rule, well
cut, those with the circular founce being
the best. The newest, of course, are those
that are circular in shape. These are often
trimmed with narrow cordings of white
duck or linen, which certainly very much
relieves the dead black, for nothing is more
dead black than black pique. There is the
disadvantage, however, that the white
cordings soon become soled.
Blue odd shade of rose color and
pink are seen in these separate skirts,
well as white and black, and while there is
very little difference in the shape and gen
eral effect, there is great deal of differ
ence in the material, so that it is well to
choose carefully.
Evening star., 1899-07-15
OLD-FASHIONED PURSES.
Are in Fashion Again, and the Home-
Iier the More Popular.

Purses carried by women nowadays are
in fancy grains and fancy colors, the grain
of the leather giving an appearance of
shading, while the edges are bound in a
pain shade of the same color or in a con-
trasting color. These purses are all made
in the common patterns, with change and
bill compartments
There is a revival of ar old German purse
which is a big fiat pouch when opened and
has fiat top frame of steel in four pieces.
The sides of the purse are fiat and bound
with straight pieces of steel, while the
leather forms bag hanging from these
side steels. The end steels are half as wide
and are hinged to the side pieces folding
across the top and meeting in the middle
with clasp like a change purse.
When opened wide the whole purse is
spread out about eight inches long. There
is a place for everything and everything in
its place in one big bag. Its bulk when
filled with the usual array of memoranda
and samples, must be detrimental 10 its
popularity, as 1t must be held clasped in
the hand, and it makes a pretty good hand
full.
The popular purse, however is of the
p,ainest and homeliest type. 1t is the
hnger purse, named from the women's
habit of carrying il with the fingers thrust
through the big retaining strap across the
front. This purse is made of three plain
strips of roughly finished pigskin. making
two compartments in the simplest form.
One is gusseted for change and the other q
nat pocket for bills. The flap Of both
compartments slips through strap across
the front piece. The whole is sewed about
the edges with harness stitching with no
attempt at ornamentation.
To individualize this purse there are big
brass initials. the same as are used in or
namenting brass-trimmed sets of harness.
These are furnished with retaining pins en-
the back, which are easily thrust through
the leather and pressed down fiat.
There is something rich about the appear-
ance of these simple purses, and their
oddity has made them most popular amcng
the young folk
Evening star., 1899-07-15
From the Kansas City Star

From the Kansas City Star.
Thread gloves, having for years been the
joy of the simple and sensible, have recent
ly been taken up with rush by the fash
ionable and rather freakish element. This is
chiefly because with their capital suede Isle
gloves the manufacturers have achieved a
cotton hand covering that fits exactly and
smartly. Thread gloves in a variety of soft
tones are very preferable to silk, and wo-
men with pretty, plump hands and arms
wear elbow sleeved muslins in the after
noon with flesh, pink or lilac suede Isle
gloves reaching, to the crook of the arm
and end of the sleeve. One potent argu-
ment in favor of these hand coverings is
that not only are they cool. perfect pro-
ttectors against ,tsunbSrn. but they wash
Just like Isle thread STOCKINGS.
Evening star., 1899-07-15
Long Lace Mittens.
From the Boston Post.

Women with thin or red arms will well
come the news that the long lace mitten is
the grand chic thing for full dress, and the
elbow mitten-also Of lace-the newest
thing for afternoon gowns made with elbow
sleeves. These mittens, when worn with
ceremonious evening gown, are longer than
the longest gloves, running quite to the un-
der arm seam and Joined to the shoulder
with short jeweled chains. There is a
hole for the thumb, which serves to hold
them in place about the wrist and hand.
They are shaped like the silk mitts worn
eight and ten years ago. but fit more per-
fectly, as they are made to order. They
afford most delightful chance to show of
ones handsome rings.
Evening star., 1899-07-15
Belt Clasps.
From the Boston Post.

FrOm the BOSTON POSI-.
The latest trick in the wardrobe of the
summer girl is a broad belt clasp called
bodice, to hold the belt ribbon on fiat. These
clasps are designed to be worn at the back,
although many girls will wear them in
place of a regulation belt buckle, and will
fasten the ribbon under them in front They
come in steel and gold. Another pretty
fashion in belts is girdle of homeric metal
with medallion clasp, on which some clas-
sic figure in gold stands out in bas relief on
the darker background. Under the belt,
which is spiral, there is colored elastic
to give increased body. These belts will be
found becoming to slender girls
Evening star., 1899-07-15
Should Remain Spinsterx.

From the Philadelphia Times.
The woman who proudly declares that she
cannot even hem a pocket handkerchief,
never made up a bed in her life, and adds
with a simper that she's been in society
ever since she was fifteen" should not
marry. And there are others.
The woman who would rather nurse a
pug dog than a baby.
The woman who wants to refurnish her
house every spring.
The woman who buys for the mere pleas
ure of buying.
The woman who thinks men are angels
and demigods.
The woman who would rather die than
wear a bonnet two seasons old.
The woman who thinks that the cook
and the nurse can keep house.
The woman who buys bric-a-brac for the
parlor, and borrows kitchen utensils from
her neighbor.
The woman who wants things just be,
cause other women have them
Evening star., 1899-07-15

From Tt-Bits.
School Teacher-"Yes. my children, al
ways remember there Is no human love
equal to mothers love-"
Little Girl-''Womens love their childrens
better than their husbands, don't they?'
Very often"
yes indeed. When we gets the hic-
coughs mamma gets sorry and tries to
cure 'en. but when papa gets the hiccoughs
she gets cross"
Evening star., 1899-07-15
At the Mountain House,
From puck

PUCK.
isn't It magnificent exclaimed the en-
thusiastic boar6er. I've always wanted to
see storm in the mountains. You remem-
ber Byren's lines, of course?
:. From peak. to peak. the rafting crags
among,
Leaps the live thunder"
ut sort Of worries me-" replied the other
party.
why? Are you afraid of lightning?"
Rather. i am afraid the landlord may
charge for this storm In his blu"
Evening star., 1899-07-15

of pale-green silk. the edges of which are
left uneven Inside the silk the powder
is run around the material so that it forms
a small bag. When tied up the rough edges
of the silk are to all appearances a part of
the foliage of the flowers, no one not in the
secret for a moment imagining that they
conceal puff and bit of powder.
Gowns for al fresco parties exhibit all the
Evening star., 1899-07-15

Painted gauzes are high in favor. Made
with entredeux of lace and constructed over
faint tinted lnings, they make charming
afternoon frocks, and are most becoming
to the slim, ethereal type of young woman.
Rather curious idea is the application of
cloth strappings on pique gowns. One
model which displayed the innovation to
considerable advantage was of mastic tint
trimmed with strappings of cloth of the
same shade.
One cannot but be impressed by the elab-
orateness of the summers pique gowns.
When made by firSt-clasS tailor and sup
piled with the usual embroideries and
Strapplngs they are marvels of ornateness
White pique is combined with the same ma
terial in other colors pale blue, pale green,
lavender and pink combining with white in
way that is highly creditable to the de-
signer's skill. For instance a gown of
white piQue with shaped founce of pale
pink was supplied with a heading consist
ing of several graduated stripes of the pink
Scroli-like strappings of the pink pique
covered the seams of the skirt and curved
over the principal ones in the little white
jacket. The revers and turned-over collar
were of combined white and pink the belt
having an odd attachment of white and
pink pique that on first appearance might
be mistaken for the tail of the coat
Evening star., 1899-07-15

Mrs. Binks (sick of it)-"Really. Joint
How can you bear to spend your time whip
at the stream ali day
long and never single fish taking the least
notice of your"
John-"Ah. but think o. the delight, Maria.
when you do get fish! Lor' bless us. my
dear. have you forgotten the day when you
hooked meT'
Evening star., 1899-07-15
Heavily Trimmed Piques.

Pique gowns heavily trimmed with hand
some insertions of embroidery have their
admirers, and in popularity do not by any
means concede anything to those boasting
colored trimmings. Tunique and overskirt
effects are successfully accomplished in
pique, fabric supposedly unadaptable to
the formation of graceful draperies because
or its stiffness AS it is, it's lines suggest
rather the stately outlines of marble stat
uary than the soft, ciinging draperies which
it attempts to initiate. A decided train is
seen on all summer gowns, which is rather
to be commended, as the drapary gives a
touch of grace to even the most awkward
ngure. CATHERINE TALBOT
Evening star., 1899-07-15
Dainty Po,xder PM.

The woman who uses powder is aided and
aoetted in her use Of 1t by the introduc-
tion OF very artistic new powder pun. 1t
Is made in the form of very natural
looking flower, and can be pinned upon the
bodice. The boutonniere is sewn to a piecs
Evening star., 1899-07-15

latest notifications which the dictators OF
fashion have SO far seen fit to beStow upon
the lightweight wash gowns. White ba-
rege is a material that is deservedly pop
ular. 1t may be made up to wear over col
ored silk, in which case it somewhere shows
touch of velvet trimming to narmonize
with the lining. These gowns are, of course,
made very simply, the only elaboration
being an artistic application of tucks or
graceful folding of the draperes.
Evening star., 1899-07-15
Spanish Gypsy Earrings.

Earrings, which have so long been laid
on the shelf are about to see a renewal of
Popularity. Large gold earrings, some
times strung with pearls or other Jewels.
are what fashion demands. They are the
earrings of the Spanish gypsy, becoming to
oriental type OF loneliness, but looking
rather incongruOus on an alert Anglo-Sax-
on head. Faces irregular in contour, too.
strange to say. lend themselves better to
the new ornament than those of strictly
classic shape A tip-tilted nose wide
mouth and oval face derive subtle charm
from the great, half-barbarous looking or
naments- They are not heavy, as one might
be led 10 think from their size, for thew
are hollow inside. Earrings of every styIe.
1t is said, will be reintroduced and pierced
ears Will again be the fashion. although ii
Is whispered that judging that the present
generation may be too enlightened for that
sort OF thing, some styles of earrings are
made that may be clasped in the ear without
any preliminary surgical operations. 1t is a
comfort. however. to read the jewelers.
announcement that they can pierce ears
oy an absolutely painless process-doubt-
less due to the use OF cocaine, a detail
which is worth considering. as in the hands
OF the ignorant or careless cocaine is ca
paDle OF doing a good deal of harm
Evening star., 1899-07-15
The Seorcher.
From Life.

He scorched along the boulevard;
He scorched across the hill:
He scorched into a cable car:
We think he's scorching still,
Evening star., 1899-07-15

Fichus in Colleen style.

There are long fichus in the Marie Antoin-
ette style for outdoor wear. Their CON-
struction is simple. Bands of insertion and
lace fiouncing are combined in the shape of
the little shoulder shawIs the Irish peasant
women wear. At the waist these pretty
dress accessories are knotted with long
ends OF chiffon finished below with founces
OF lace The prettily draped fichus of or
gandie. which ornament so many summer
gowns. recall the charming portraits of
Romney. while equally suggestive of that
period are wide. feecy ties that keep the
Dig summer hats from being the prey of
each passing zephyr. Narrow strings of
ribbon velvet sometimes take the place of
the wide bows. and. indeed, are more eff
fectiye for young faces
Evening star., 1899-07-15
LisIe Thread GiOYcs.

Asafoetida is said to be a valuable remed
for the insomnia occurring in the aged.
Evening star., 1899-07-15

JaVelle water may be made at home by
dlssolVing four pounds of washing soda in
Tour quarts of soft water. Boil ten minutes
take from the fire, and add one pound OF
chloride of lime Cool quickly and kaer
tightly corked. AS this is very strong. II
must be handled with care
Evening star., 1899-07-15
Accessories Must Match.

One of the little fads now of supreme i'm
portanCe to fashionable DANES is the match
ing of the small accessories of dress. All
avoidance of opposition in color is regard
ed in good taste. Hats, gowns. sun
shades and underskirts are in one tone, the
bOotmakers quite outdOing each other in
their efforts to produce dainty shoes to
match or harmonize with the costume
The use of lace jackets. of which l prev
1otlsIy spoke. seems to be a fashion which
women are glad to make use Of. The lace
Jacket is useful in several ways. Its rich
gowns OF severe simplicity when there is
reason to quickly convert them into gala
costumes One lace jacket may be used
with half a dozen gowns and be equally eff
fective with each Some of them are cut in
EtOn shape, others with long side pieces and
short backs. while still others and to nv
mind the most effective. are fashioned of
Euipure with high collars, revers and short
basques. The long sleeves are finished OF
with the bell shaped wrist Through the
lace the color of the bodice filters, giving
an artistic softness to those high sharp col
orS now 50 much the fashion.
Jackets and Lace Revers.
With jackets adjustable revers of lace are
much worn These are in the style of the
adjustable revers of white satin and white
silk. flower embroidered. worn with some
of the most elegant of the winter gowns
snd with those of the early spring The
severs are deep. reaching to or almost to
The waist. and so wide that they fall back
10 the shoulders. a high wing like collar
falls from the back of the neck and is a
part OF the arrangement.
Inc long boas of gathered chiffon and
tulie that have superseded ostrich feather
peas are sometimes edged with narrow fril-
IEgs OF tne finest lace Il shade lighter or a
shade creamier than the chiffon or tulle:
IL gives the same effect as a touch of foam
or spray on water. Boas of coIored chiffon
ana tuIles are varied in the same way with
Evening star., 1899-07-15

Houses that are to be closed during the
summer should have the picture frames
and chandeliers covered with cheese cloth
or thin cotton to protect them from dust
ana flies. The open CRATES should have
sheet-iron screens fitted into them to pre-
vent the SCOT sitting down into the room
The ice box should be left wide open, and
empty, with the exception of a shallow dish
h!ied with charcoal Wrap the books in
newspaper, and brush the upholstered fur
niture carefully and cover with muslin. nut
ting sheets of ordinary tar roofing paper
underneath.
Evening star., 1899-07-15

The pretty English custom of sending
boxes of wedding cake after quiet home
wedding to relatives and near friends of the
prioe ana groom is being rapidly adopted
here, and the dainty white packages tied
with ribbon and ornamented with the in
tefiaced monograms in silver of bride and
groom form most attrac tive souvenirs of
she occasion. The boxes already wrapped
for distribution are furnished by the cater
er, and, 1t goes without saying, add SUBJ
stantlally to the expense of the wedding.
Evening star., 1899-07-15

Bread made crisp and brown by being
sliced and baked in a hot oven makes a
valuable breakfast dish for those who are
inclined to corpulence No butter should be
eaten with this bread
Evening star., 1899-07-15

An excellent hot-weather salad is the
chiHonade. This consists Of nearly all the
salads in season., for instance, lettuce es-
carole, tomato, romaine, chicory, beets and
celery, cut in long slices. The dressing for
this salad is made as follows: Take one
nard-boi!ed egg and mash it as fine as pos
sipie with fork; then add two pinches of
-paprika and pinch of salt, half a tea
spoonful of French mustard, a teaspoonful
or minced chiVes two tablespoonfuls of oil
ana tnree of vinegar. Shake well, add to
the salad toss together and serve
Evening star., 1899-07-15
Something Like a Catch.
From Punch.

what could he say?
Evening star., 1899-07-15

Before sending table linen to the laundry
at this season especially, it should be care
fully looked over, and all stains removed
Ordinarily, fruit stains may be readily
taken out by spreading the stained part OF
the fabric over the top of a bowl and pour
ing hot water from the tea kettle through
the stain. Peach stains will not yield to
thls treatment; but If rubbed In alcohol be-
fore putting the linenL in water, they will
usually disappear. If! more heroic meas
ufes are necessary, use Javelle water, but
rinse with the utmost thoroughness after
ward to prevent the eating of the cloth.
Hutchinson gazette. [volume] (Hutchinson, Kan.) 1895-1902, 1899-02-09

overcoats In winter; sell cattle TO pny
off the mortgages and lack meat.
Hundreds Of the men who helped to
build our railways are now counting
tho ties from San Francisco to New
York.
Hundreds OF young men whose par
ents were those hardy western pio-
neers who transformed wilderness
into civilization, are today without n
foot Of land and without hope.
Our marvellous inventions have been
monopolized so that, in spite OF the
daily miracles OF our machinery, the,
hungry still lack food and the home
less wunder through the streets.
Every recent change in legislation
has been to protect property and to.
disfranchiso men.
Already in the evolution of the world
many plants and animals and profess
sions have become extinct. We no,
longer have the stage.drivcr, the hand
weaver, the lamp-lighter, bhe chimney
sweep, the lantern-bearer, the slave
dealer, the pirate, the publican, the
scribe, the nrmor-bearer or the cour-,
Ter; they have passed away like the
mastodon and buffalo
VIII the universe fall apart II we
add to this list the banker, the CAPT
tallst, the broker, the usurer, the land
lord and the monopolist?
What remains when you rob slave
Of his chains? His liberty. What re-
mains when you rob n sick man of his
disease? His health What remains
when you rob dog Of fleas? The
dog.
What remains when you rob Amer
leu of It's tyrants? America remains.
Remove the industrial despots and
you will still have an industrial sys-
TEN. II we had no landlords, VIC
would still have the earth. Reform
Press, Pueblo, Colorado.
Hutchinson gazette. [volume] (Hutchinson, Kan.) 1895-1902, 1899-02-09

the value Of money, or, which is the
same thing, continue to lower prices,
TO transfer in short time all wealth
TO few hands. On the other hand, II is
only necessary to sufficiently raise
price levels, which is the same thing rs
TO lower the value Of money, to leave
more and more of tho wealth produced
In the hands Of the producers, or to
transfer wealth from the few TO the
many.
Altogether, the most potent agency
in concentrating wealth in few hands
during the last twenty-five years has
been tho approaching dollar and this
has only to be continued long enough
to transfer practically NIL wealth to
fewer and fewer hands. Such is the
power Of money. The fact hardly
needs pointing to that conditions Of
highest equity would be those under
which there was the least variation in
the relation of money to other things
and to'debts to be paid On the other
hand, II would be impossible to devise
an agency so all-pervading and all
powerful to work injustice as an in
creasing money scale, and hence the
thing now must incumbent upon the
nations is to put an end to the appre-
citation Of money and the fall of prices,
Gen. A. j. Warner.