New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1899-04-30

| noticeable features o. the costume affected by
these travellers is the shortness Of the skirt in
front and the shortness OF the Jacket behind 1t Is
doubtful If the French woman OF any class will
ever sin in these two particulars. Yet there Is
some Justice in the lament at the ubiquity OF the
! tailor-made. and the French woman on this ac-
count. is in danger of losing her superiority
In matters of the toilet The aim Of the Parisienne
has beon always 10 wear toilet original and dis
| tingushed, and becoming to her alone. The mo-
| she adopts the tailors models the masculine
] STANDARD in dress begins TO creep in and TO be
| correct. she must look as much as possible ike
her neighbor Dress then, becomes a uniform. and
| not the outward expression Of each individual.
Certainly the cloth costume has reached point
of luxury and elaborateness 1t never achieved be-
fore its adoption by French women. With the
| spring. cloths appear 10 have become even inner
END more silky in texture. The tnts are as soft as
pastel crayons and no material drapes In such per-
| lection Of folds Cloths embroidered and per-
| forated in patterns taken from muslin emorod-
heavy laces Applications of the most beau
tiful lace trim some OF these and arabesques or
embroidery of many-colored silks are considered an
ordinary trimming for cloth gown Nothing Is
there are the stitched bands. straps Or Pattes..
as the French term them) as fashona bic as ever;
ord buttons always buttons in profusion
NOVEL CLOTH GOWNS.
novelty that threatens to become popular Is
cloth gown combined Of two colors For example
a blue gown will have elaborate applications or ng-
REF of black cloth. This idea may be exemplihed.
or the effect may be elaborate or as simple as
Ncne wishes. This idea is prettiy carried out in
pitch pine and white The lower skirt Is Of white
end sn elaborate pattern in white tr9Is the yell
low cloth that makes the tunic
navy blue serge has a skirt cut with two
seams in the back which outlined with stitched
bands OF black cloth. The Jacket has yoke be-
hind which is stitched with black silk. and black
straps outline the side seams and round coattals
i nh 80 he farl tc In
and clusters OF pearl buttons. The sleeves are
somewhat odd the material being carried up to the
choker and stitched down on the shoulders INTO
At shop that makes a speciality Of tops" there
are several models that particularly striking.
one is a Jacket OF white tucked silk and white viii,
% S'Ri the choRer epauiets and vest form the cloth
jabot Of white mousseline and clusters OF crystal
and Jacket are arranged on the bias ,r,.o with
pretty blouse is Of whs s attn tTmmsa Ws
| and fancy buttons. A second is Of white cothi
made with box sS t ch na ARE has ee Of the
fourth hand cravats of gay, edged with a fringe
Of steel beads. The gray belt is fastened with
An abundance Of Directoire effects are promised
for the s hats ihs and oes
Sans Gene was responsible for the last revival OF
again Interested people in the gowns Of that period
Nine Jane Hading in the role OF Josephine wears
sone superb gowns and marvellous hats. one Us
large poke Of gray tulle finely SHRED uF Fs.
the brm s red rose a9d 9m about n the bare
shonIsers The hair is dressed in high cushion.
With al srot toa1e Of jewels
bunch Of gray feathers and lace scarf Another
s Rind that is being copied to-day At the back Of
The hat little 70 tne s soe latter passes about the
chin 10 fasten behind.
DAINTY STAGE GOWNS.
On. always expects good dressing at the Paais
Roval. but in the new play, I'm FL la Pate.
are some particularly dainty costumes Notnhs Is
nrettier than the rose gown worn by Mile. Chirei
in the first act. The skirt is white scaiion.
about the bottom and rests on nounee OF plLaaS
Oussene that forms k slight W WAN this is Worn
nss a. r Jacket Of pink velvet ribbon and lace
en- tSn Bottom OF the skirt the back being only
half as long A founce OF pink mouS SELLS scSu
l Me re H and finishes the tight elbow sleeves
beautiful evening gown II r ,SHe This is cut
With 1SM straight double breasted front slopng away
70 form two long Po made Of several rues Of
nipI mousseIne and the decoletage is finished on
the left side by sfai Of short rues Of
1G de 6 S' The held s S shoulder SuHeh of pink
blue sSPqESs q forth. Is sifydfy u6GeP
skirt Over this Is tunic Of the plain clo ,bs
smag eold buttons and jet beads trim ne sides 81
the jacket. and there is mario" "A''''@'0
nretfy model for a princess gown - inaue e. %
~ same bine color In peau de sole. Gupure Iace
forms the top OF the sleeves ana every seam ~ me
dysss is outlined by stitched band. me eown
ses 1,isby on the left side under one OF these
bands. and no other trimming breaks 'ho 'e's''''
OF the model ,. .,xoas,s n mamma dour
One form OF bolero almost tuggests poiilpaShit
coTsa gs THE hack cut 10 show plt OF lne poI1'
roun5s neatly over the hips and ends IN Two snalp
iitfle points in front. These points ran .,oa.
inches below the waist line Ihis Jach . ,-ons and
panne and fastens in front with clotn straps an y,
sieel buttons The top Is heart-shaped, ana -
Allied in with a nchu of white mousseline EN-
brodered with vloets On the tops or the sIeenTs
are three cloth straps with steel buttons Ihs gar
ment is worn with skirt OF violet cloth - .,
The lace tunic still keeps JUS popuiar!sS' ar
is n safe model 10 order. When mounted over d
turquoise blue transparency and resting on sn'
OF blue rufies II makes most enectve cos in,h
Another eupure tunic has lozenges OF yellow cioth
framed In black velvet and inserted IN lhe ia -
Itself This Is worn with skirt OF black peau oe
sole. The tunc is cut coat-fashion, win sm IT,
waistcoat Of yellow cloth, embroidered with mo
velvet ribbon. .,..
handsome reception gown Of black and white
has An original trimming OF white mousseHne on
which a lace design IL embroidered IN black VeVet
and let This trimming runs In bands on each
der on the train The same design Is carried out
on the tight elbow sleeves and top OF the corsage
Al the revival OF "Francillon" at the Theatre
Francois Nine. Bartet wears lovely dtshaoiie or
mink mousseline de sole and gupure lace. The
lace makes a robe. with deep nounce forming
with tiny entredeux OF black lace edges the de-
coIletage and forms Jabot down each SIDE OF tne
overdress. The underdress OF mousseline de sole is
trimmed the front with several rufnes edged
with black