The Worcester spy. [volume] (Worcester, Mass.) 1898-1904, 1899-11-19
Fur-covered Toques
and Hats the La
test Novelty.
A new PICTURE HAT.
Choice Bits of Brocade Are
Used for Laying in
Crowns.

almost exclusively for the purpose;
chinchilla is relegated to quite third
rate position and astralzhan is alto
gether tabooed in the first houses. This
comedies with fashions in furs general
ly, which give to sable and marten the
first place. Possibly before the season
is much older the favor which is be-
ginning to be extended to sealskin in
other departments may occasion its
being adopted by maliners; however, l
only throw this out as supposition.
At all events, it is most probable that
such will be the case next winter, as
everything points to a revival Of a taste
for seal.
AS 1 have said, both hats and toques
are covered with fur. In some, cases the
skin is merely stretched oyer'the FORM
as might be a
SQUARE OF VELVET OR A FELT
PLATEAU,
the piece used for lining brought over
the edge in a roll. This arrangement is
the one generally employed for marten
but Russian sable. with its elegant
markings on the back, is subjected to
a different treatment; the skin is so
placed ON the form that these markings
form circles running parallel to the
edge of the brim and encircling the
crown, while instead of being stretched
cut fiat it is made to set in slight folds,
following the same direction.
Flowers are also used for their deco
ration-bunches Of violets or roses. A
hat with a brim of medium width COW
cred with marten is simply decorated
by two large blush roses and their
leaves; a second has two punches of
purple and reddish mauNe violets; a
fur toque is surmounted by a pyramid
al bunch of crimson roses. One of the
new ideas is to fix two or three glass
dewdrops to the petals of roses used
for this and other purposes.
Sable and marten skins must also be
included among the very fashionable
trimmings for felt hats. Two strips, cut
off the sides of the skin, provide bind
ing for the edge of the hat, and the
center piece, with the head and tail
attached.
A TORSADE FOR TWISTING ROUND
the crown; the head and tail cross each
other in front, where they are secured
by a semi-circular slide. These slides,
which are mounted on a fiat piece of
metal, are not only made of simili but
also in enamel which has suddenly
come into such favor for brooches and
buckles. The enameling is executed on
metal, in pale green and yellow gold
tints, most effective on dark-tinted fur
felt, or textiles
A novelty of which the miliners have
not been slow to avail themselves has
lately been launched by the whole
salers; it consists in hats of very soft
felt with brims measuring ten inches
in width, often more back and front.
This wide brim is intended to be draped
on itself, and is capable Of being trans
formed in many different ways; the
extra width may be turned over and
fluted, so as to form a portion of the
trimming, or it may be rolled over into
a torSade encircling the edge.
Hats covered with velvet or with
panne have sometimes brims measur-
ing as much as twelve or fifteen inches
that they may be draped over in flutes
or torsade. Of course the
STIFF INTERLINING DOES NOT
EXTEND
to the edge of the brim, and is merely
sufficiently wide to support it wher
toQue.
The use of pann9 is becoming very
general, especially as a substitute fol
velvet or satin antique. The textile now
known by this name is lighter aH6
thinner than velvet or plush, and the
pile lies quite fat; it differs entirely
from sealskin plush which was former
ly called panne, Many of the new
models owe their novelty to the com
bination of materials. Thus the upper
side of the brim of a hat may be COW
cred with taffetas or the new make Of
piece felt beginning to be known az
feuke satin, the under with velvet LAID
on plain or in folds, while the crown
is a similar mixture of the two Anothe
of hi sis31e ief
piece of figured tissue into a GOVERNS
of some plain fabric. the former vague
ly reminding one of a bow, but lyine
fiat or almost fiat. For this purpos,
figured silks of different sorts ar,
chosen,
CHIMES. VELVET BROCADES
SILKS,
woven and pannes printed in cashner
designs. One rule is almost always oh
served-the piece of material laid in il
much lighter than the covering prope
of the shape, or at least has ligh
ground. Here is an instance: A sailor
otherwise covered with golden brow
velvet, has a piece of white silk chine
With blue flowers, let into the top o
the brim; it is pointed at the extremi
ties and arranged in flutes from thes
points to the base of the crown wher
which is fastened the stem of a yer,
wide couteau bent into a corcle so a
to reach nearly round the hat TIL
couteau is an artificially tinted argu
with blue eyes.
Milliners are laying in selections o
choice bits of brocade and fancy silks
Their adaptation to hat trimmings
one of the many special characteristic
of the present fashion; they have bee
promoted to the place which was Gao
cording to some accounts) to be occu
pied by
HAND-PAINTED MATERIALS,
whose ultimate success /. always ques
toned. Hand painting is being persist
ed in here and there, but it is general,
admitted to be inadequate in its effec
and far from worth the trouble and ex
pense devoted TO it, and in almost ever,
instance brocades and printed stuff
replace 1t with advantage. Even in tn
case of feathers, hand painting is onl,
effective when used with much dis
erection.
For a new picture hat which is goinl
TO be in much favor with Parisians 70
specially dressy occasions, and has
broad brim and high crown, narrowin,
considerably toward the top some sor
of voluminous trimming is necessary
The first models in this style were 70
the most part decorated with the broat
silk scarfs that were going to TAX
fashion by storm. Unfortunately, Iadie
made the discovery that fringed end
hanging down behind game them
A "WEEPY APPEARANCE"
and only the very few rejoicing il
beauty of a triumphal order could spor
them with impunity.
The following models have no sue
Disadvantage The first is a hat GOV
cred smoothly with reseda velvet; a
usual the high crown is encircled wit
folds Of the velvet. and the brim