The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1899-06-18

Lavender Water as the Most APP
proved Toilet Liquid for the
Warm Weather--A New Weave of
Either SILK and Linen or Silk and
Wool In Combination.
NEW YORK, June Is = A very high
color note has been struck by the men
who aspire to lead their sex in dress, and
cheerfully lurid are the shirts of French
linen now seen at country houses and
clubs. clear, hot scarlet to be accu-
rately descriptive. is the ground plan of
the modish outing and morning shirt
bosom. Across this flaming breastplate,
laid In side or box plaits, run half-inch
wide. horizontal stripes in deeper, rich
er. more ruby red. and with white cuffs
and collars, the gilded youth at the mo-
ment contemplates his facede In unabash-
ed approval. Now, as an extenuating
circumstance, 1t is only just to state that
the whole Of this plated bosom does not
snow. unless the wearer strays on the
golf links. and there, of course, should
he diyest himself of blue serge REFER and
brown linen waistcoat his upper man,
blooming like a poppy of the field. does
not seem in the least out of place.
Ordinarily, though, the REFER and linen
waistcoat are retained, and above the
front of the latter garment wedge of
red shirt bosom beams cheerfully as a
rising sun.
Though only q certain number of the
more progressive men have adopted these
warrior-like sarks, all men whose taste
In dress is good and progressive have
given themselves up generously to the in
fiuence of lavender. This color pervades
the masculine wardrobe, tlnting the I'M
derwear, night clothes, gloves and hose
as well as the linen, Clear, clean, solid
tones of lavender occasionally diversified
with small dots. rings, diamonds and YER
rnicelli wriggles of black or white, are
regarded as a chaste and becoming
choice, and it Is to be vouched that men,
dark, light and of uncertain complexion,
accept the lavender dyes with astonish-
ing grace.
Nearly every phase of the almost
ubiquitous bandanna tie chimes well with
the lavender linen. and the man who Is
got up creditably for all his morning
avocations, who runs into town every
morning to his office and spends his Sun
days on club house piazzas. ties his
china silk bandanna In q four-in- hand
about straight standing linen collar and
over a black and lavender French linen
shirt bosom. High up on the linen 'front.'
age fastens, double-breasted, by large
white pearl buttons. gray line waistcoat
that invariably demonstrates on Its
surface the useful beauty of a dot or
plaid. The dot or plaid may be in paler
shade of gray, or very delicately done IN
Inf6 10
drawn in hair lines that suggest rather
than emphasize color Trousers of a
gray homcspun, or serge, or tough, rough
Scotch tweed, and double-breasted reef
er Of blue SERGE. contribute just the cor
rect tone to typical spring-like and
business like costume for the season
Very dark brown shoes and rough
cream white sailor hat. having its dark
blue gros- grain ribbon band held on one
side by three small, dark blue enamel
buttons, in place of a bow knot, tops of
the whole thing tidily. If low brown
shoes are worn. full silk lacers tied In an
abundant sort of bow toR the instep, and
brown hose, pretty well peppered with
the gayest yellow, blue and red dots or
streaks, are the morning rule.
We have it on the authority of men
who yield to nothing effeminate that the
manicure is still very essential to the nice
perfection of the masculine toilet In
New York those barber shops frequented
by the fashionable club men are all pro-
vided, not only with manicure conyen-
fences, but a professional, who Yields
skillfully all the instruments and apph-
cations necessary for shaping and bleach
ing the nails.
The finger tips are first brushed with
very soft bristles In tepid suds of sweet
CASTLE, dried, cleansed with a steel blade
that is not sharp, and then a pointed
orange wood stick, dipped in clear bleach
ing fluid, is passed back and forth under
the nails. A pair of curved scissors are
used to snip off hangnails and to shape
the nail itself into rounding arch, like
the outside of a crescent, for long or
pointed nails are detestable on a mans
hand With the ivory end of the steel
cleaning blade the man1curiSt gently
pushes back the edge Of the flesh that
is growing up from the finger on the
nails surface. Lastly, the operator rubs
on the base of her right hand thumb
trife of sweet white powder and then
rubs the nails of her customer swiftly
back and forth against her own powdered
palm. By this device a fine finish,
glitter, is contributed to the nails and all
the color introduced is a healthy glow
of blood in the finger tips that produces
a clear pink and white in the nails them
selves.
If lavender is the chosen color for this
sea sons linen, lavender water is adopted
wisely and quite universally as the most
approved toilet liquid for the warm
weather. Bags of English lavender are
put in presses and drawers where under
wear is laid, and no feminine draperies
were ever more dainty than the ripped
lavender and white wash silk pajamas
that now supply the masculine wardrobe
In place of the cords hitherto used for
the pajama coat at the waist, sash-like
ribbon is now run through three straps
at the back, and the broad ends of the
ribbon are caught in close with fiat silk
taSSelS.
Woven underwear Of the popular tint
or a warm shrimp pink Is coming In with
a considerable difference in the weaving.
Men who have been fond Of wearing pure
Isle, silk OF woolsin summer, or until the
present, when the manufacturers are
very successfully Introducing a new
weave of either silk and linen or silk and
wool in combination for summer and the
men who have adopted this smooth-sur-
faced, well ventilated underwear, have
their initials worked In silk on every gar
ment In cream white or a deeper tone of
pink or lavender than the garme nts
themselves Beau Brummel