New-York tribune., 1899-02-12
CLOTH SEASON IN PARIS.
PERFORATED MATERIALS OF LIGHT
WEIGHT THE SEASONS NOVELTY.
ovERDREssEs SEEN on SOME NOTES.-THE
TUNIc PoPULAR-c1OvEs ARE NOW OFTEN
DISCARDED AT THE OPERA


TUSIc PoPULAR-o1ovEs ARE NOW OFTEN
DISCARDED AT THE OPERA.
Paris. February g.
Tho Paris dressmakers affirm that nothing will be
more fashionable the coming season than light
weight perforated cloths. This does include
the perforated cloths sold in tho shops. for per
foration Is regarded much like embroidery-it
must be done after the gown is cut. A nice exam
pie occurs on a gown OF palest gray cloth. lined
with purple The skirt has pattern perforated
in a band about the bottom and making q high
poln; on each side. The perforations in this case
laid over purple panne. which gives richer
effect than does SILK over this is overdress
with point. front and back. and edged with gray
silk fringe
1t Is probable that the overdress will be often
during the coming season. The tunic over
dress. as II stands now. Is the fashionable OF
garments. and later OF the coutureres say shall
drapery. Among the early models several
draped skirts but has been outside OF
the dressmakers' rooms II was about four years
ngo that the Paris couturieres made concerted
attempt to Introduce draped skirts and failed
There reasons why the attempt might
be moro successful to-day. The present tight skirt
is becoming TO only few women The extremely
slender the overarge woman looks badly IN it,
and change is needed This is far from saying
that draped oversklrs will be popular this spring
but it is certain that they will be fashionable and
Anytc-s7 who finds the close skirt unbecoming need
have no hesitation in draping f..
description OF several draped skirts is herewith
given. One is very original and the dressmaker
who signs Il speaks Of the overdress volant
forme. which may help 20 understanding OF It's
shape. The skirt is purple CLOTH and over this is
the overdress Of panne in lighter shade Of pur-
pie. and bordcred by line OF sable. This over
dress IS cut in circular form, which makes It fit
smoothly 10 the figure one side IS much shorter
than the other. and is laid in several peats The
bodice is bolero Of panne. with cloth sleeves and
revers. These are edged with fur. and there is
bunchy arrangement Of sable tails at the back OF
the choker which Is becoming to most faces The
choker and chemisette OF white satin, trimmed
with lace and tucks
Black cloth and velvet are used in the second
gown. Velvet makes the underskirt the sleeves
the empiecement and collar. and cloth is used for
the bolero and overdress. The overdress in this
instance Is drawn up both sides. and the funess
IS arranged to hang fat behind under two large
Jet buttons. The overdress and the shawl rever on
the double breasted Jacket are perforated
white silk and embroidered with Jets.
NOVEL WRAPS
A wrap that attracted good deal o. attention
~ the opera the other night OF black satin
perforated in great sunbursts gray satin. and
embroidered about the perforations with jet and
steel beads and paiettes. Chinchilla the lining
Another opera cape OF royal blue velvet made
with two shaped circular ruffes over these rested
a shoulder cape OF blue fox. the entire animals
being used. and hanging with their heads down
u was not pretty but il is Chic 10 string
animals over ones shoulders. Some evening capes
especially those cut on the shawl pattern are so
long as to train. They are. Of course only worl.
with trained skirts
Occasionally woman at the opera appears with
out gloves. wearing the long lace sleeves that end
only at the knuckles. These sleeves, which are
called "mauches- -mitaines." really lovely. and
appear generally dinner-goWns. Lace mitts.
too affected by a few. but It is expected
that the lace shall be exceedingly lovely.
For dnaer-gowns the pompadour effects reign
supreme. a gown OF white penne is made with a
pointed empiecement. embroidered with crystal
and this IS framed in lace. lace 1Ounce is used
on the skirt 10 outline open overdress Black
net embroidered with coral beads. makes beau
tifui gown There are mitt-sleeves of white lace
worn with this and there is also a bertha OF white
lace on the corsage. and this is draped with a
large pink velvet A gown OF white nous
seine de sole is made with tunic overdress Of
back guipure. The part of the tunic is he'd
to the bodice by Of pink velvet bows
Bows are much used In place OF buttons. and the
Louis XIV bow is now followed by the Louis XIII
The latter is not pretty as the wired bows. II
Is made OF lot OF loops tied very tightly In the
centre. and the effect is stiff st IA expected TO
be- but II promises be fashonab BILE, IL IT is not 20
already. - .
These bows are used 10 close tunic OF tur
ouoise blue cloth that is worn velvet skirt
Of the same color. The tunic closes on the side
with row OF these bows in black velvet. This !
is really a charming robe, and destined for Nice
The tunic 6 edged with lace and the skirt is
wide entredeux OF lace that follows the lines OF
the tun!c 4 white cloth gown IS exceedingly |
smart now. and is pretty when cut en- princesSe,
fastening invsiby. without biz OF trimming TO |
breaz the lines OF the figure One seen recently !