The record-union. [volume] (Sacramento, Calif.) 1891-1903, 1899-02-05

also the Open-f rOnted Walk1ng-Jacket
which is almost as short and tight
fitting at the back as dress bodice
with soutache applique on the revers
collar and cuffs In every instance
the tunic fashioned by Partisan ateliers
fits with great. perfeeyion about the en-
tire upper portion, FALLING in classic
lines to some inches below the knees
and very often following the dip of the
demi-trainei underdress to the very
hem in the back. Length, however, is
largely determined by the individual
figure and personal fancy.
Besides the new, very smart, little
jackets, military coats, separate jacket
bodices, tailor-made boleros, stylish
English cutaways, and many SHAPED
Louis there will appear with botf
Lenten and Easter models very hand
some costumes made with wraps Ell
suite the fabrics both plain cloths ano
fancy silk and wool mixtures, tweed
chevict, repped woods, Meltonette ano
drap dete The most elegant and ex-
pensive styles will be formed of fine
velvety Coriots and Venetian cloths OF
spring weight.
The stiff quality of silks and satins
of other days has, in a great degree
lost it's desirability and charm. Soft
ness and pliability characterize the
great majority of all the new weaves
for the coming spring and summer
when svelte and clinging effects viii
be carried to still greater lengths. Ever
many of the novel taffetas nave lost
I, Il se.fi- fcl o.
them for so many years. Some OF the
expensive oil-boiled varieties retair
their dressing and body, but the taffets
Doyeux is as flexible as India silk ane
as lustrous as satin. The soft, un
dressed silk-filling used in French mo-
hairs, bengalines Henriettas, poplins
and other fine woods also renders these
handsome textiles remarkably plant
and even the new superb brocades ant
beautifully tinted moires matelasse ane
damasse fabrics show in marked de-
gree an absence of their former stlf
and unpliable quality.
For the Lenten season there will bt
a demand for both the plain and fancy
materials in black and these are shown
in very many different weaves either II
cloth varied light woods, and in silk ant
wool melanges. Some of the new at
tractive patterns are in fine matelasss
effects. while others have dlagona
stripes in glossy chenille or roughly
woven silk. These goods are made In
to very graceful princesse polonaises
opening with curving fronts over az
underskirt of corded silk, trimmed will
silk straps and three small undulatlns
frills. The sleeves are very snug, ane
the cuffs, tiny shoulder puffs, ane
bodice trimmings are of the black silk
which is preferably of the Muscovits
weave, with rich gloss, but finished
with but little dressing" the fabric
being almost as plant as surah.
The tunic, both long and short, roune
and pointed, and absolutely withou
fullness either front or back on the
upper portion, is found to be remark
ably chic and graceful on some figure:
and very trying on others. In many
cases the artistic dressmaker. seeing IT:
disadvantages, suggests some sort O.
modifying accessory at the back or OF
the sides-a jabot drapery, some line:
of gimp or velvet ribbons, to softer
the too severe outlines, but as RUE
this amending change is declined, ane
the ruling Partisan fashion strictly ad
hered to by it's enthusiastic American
devotees.