The record-union., 1899-02-12

I the lace alone. There will be dafe
intermingling with the f1ounces and ap-
plique pieces, of plated ruI-
| fes, fan-shaped panels, ruches ana
tunicS Of chiffon, net, or moussellne ue
sole; and on extremely elaborate gowns
| there will be an additional effect pro-
duced by the richest of jet-trimming.
Charming evening bodices formed of
corded silk, velvet, and point de Venise
net are cut out rounding in the neck,
front, and back The centerpiece in
| front is made of draped net, and the
forms each side are gathered on the
shoulders. the fullness carried in soft
folds to the waist, where it is laid in
flat plaits. The bodice fastens invisibly
ON the left side under the folds. On The
shoulders are rather wide bows of vel
vet ribbon. and all the sleeve there is
is formed by carrying softly twisted
band Of the ribbon around the armhole
of the bodice A folded velvet belt en-
circles the waist and fastens with an
ornamental buckle.
The frills and graduated founces
added tc the fur capes and cloaks or the
seasc do not in the least enhance their
ricn appearance; on the contrary, the
arrangement suggests compromise
with fashion and look as if the add1-
ton had been made to lengthen cut
the garment Plated and crumplsd-
top fur ruff1es arching from shoulder to
shoulder, give a humpiness to the hgufe
that is most undesirable though unfor-
tunately fashionable; and those who Ge-
nounce distending steel springs ana
canvas and buckram are made to groan
undsr the weight of massed skirt-ruf-
f1es, frills, ruches, plaitings and draper
les. which produce a similar spreading
effect.
in the list of wrap models for spring
appears a garment short and closely
fitted az the back with semi-loose fronts
deeply tabled and short open sleeves
This model is almost a repetition CT
the dolman of past days; most IN
comfortable garment which pinioned
the arms closely to the sides, and sug-
geSieG nothing so much as fowls
trussed for market. One could not
raise a handkerchief or umbrella or ad-
Just a veil or stray lock OF hair without
the risk of a rending of strings or ma
terial Looking over the fashion-pla
of times past, we note the tied-back,
overturned, and trained dress skirts
almost invariably associated with the
doiman. The new styles are made or
corded silk, armure, or satin royal; lace,
ne.-plsjtings. chenille ruches, and
fringes. braiding, or a glittering sur
face of Jet bead work forming the gar
nitures.
Chenille dots. lines, bars, splinters,
etc. are introduced with rich and novel
effects on silk satin. sheer wool cloth,
and silk and wool fabrics for the spring
and summer, and separate chenille
bands, fringes, points, and many other
new decorations are used as trimmings.
Noz orly do these soft, light garnitures
come in black, brown, and other mono
chromes, but there are brought out
very handsome f1oral scroll, lace anu
other designs in pretty color comblaa-
tions. Bands of these trimmings are
in various widths, the broadest being
used for revers, bolero effects, guimpes,
vest fronts and panel and tunic edg-
ings.
The French seem to delight in wear
ing fabrics at apparently incongruous
seasons of the year They keep fur
about them in some form or other all
summer, if only toning bit is used
on a hat, and now, in the heart of
winter, they are all fluff and airiness
in their dainty, diaphanous gowns of
lisse, tulle, or silk muslin. and
marked feature of many of the tailor
gowns is the wearing of vests of chif-
fon or mousseline de sole over silk or
satin, and huge Louis XIV. neck bows
of tulle and lace. A beautiful Felix
toilet is made of white mousseline
brilliant, elaborately wrought in finest
cut jet pailettes, with also appliques of
black Venetian lace artistically inter-
mingled. The low-cut bodice is bor-
dered front and back with ermine with
broad fiat epaulettes of the fur set upon
the shoulders above tiny sleeve draper
les of jetted mousseline.