The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1899-08-28
WOMAN'S WORLD.


The models prepared for the opening
season exhibit very little novelty OF FORM
Variation in the arrangement OF the TRIM
ming, and in the materials and colors
chosen, have been the chief object OF the
milliner. The last few months have
made us familiar with most of the shapes
adopted. Moreover. from among these
familiar forms it is the simplest that
have been singled out, says the "Milh-
merry Trade Review"
Thus the Directoire, one of the most
picturesque of the fashionable spring
and summer hats. has decidedly lost
favor. although blocked felts of this
shape are provided for the general trade
I find the first milliners making use for
the most part of moderate sized hat
shapes, which according to the way the
trimming is arranged take rank as hats
proper or toques. In point of fact, their
denomination is often a matter of indi-
vidual choice.
A shape that one milliner pleases to
call a hat will be dubbed a toque by
another. Reckoning them at hats, they
are rather below the medium size, where
as for toques they are large. The crowns
are generally cylindrical and fiat at the
EORs liz aAG y - 80
Rembrandts. not over wide in the
brim. must also be numbered among
the smart shapes of the season. So far
buyers do not seem to have been par
ticularly keen on capotes, although !
have seen several well deserving of at
tention.
They are small, hut the trimming or
the material of which they are composed
is SO arranged as to give them a certain
height.
Felt promises to be In great request.
Blocked shapes will generally be reserv-
ed for the second-elass trade. Where
smart models are concerned the felt is
treated as a material, cut into the re-
quired shape, and mounte IN a firm
foundation. In some cases the trimming
is also felt, sometimes Of a different
color.
Thus. narrow bands of felt of circular
form will be seen by their inner edges
TO the brims of felt hats, after the man
ner of straw braids. A Paris milliner
showed me one, the shape of which was
covered with rather light gray blue felt,
on which was sewn three such circular
bands of tabac-brown felt Part of the
trimming consisted of a 1uting of this
same felt, line with blue satin. In
another instance a second, slightly wav-
ed brim was mounted against the base
of the crown. the eolors chosen being
two shades OF brown, the lighter of
which covered the shape.
On the same occasion my attention was
drawn to the use made of machine stitch
ing in certain models; this decoration
being applied alike to felt and velvet,
especially when these form decorations,
such as Outings, sticking out in waved
drapery from the sides of hats, or made
up into circular or semi-circular wheel
like arrangements set up in front of
toques or capotes. much after the man
ner of a cocks comb. The silk used
for the stitching is White or a much
lighter shade OF the same color as the
material.
AS every one knows, the slanting waist
line is the proper thing in these days
The Stanislaus girl would have made it
popular if it had not already made the
Stanislaus girl popular, for 1t so improves
the figure and lessons the apparent size
OF the waist that a woman must be blina
not to see its advantages. Contrast any
one of the old-fashioned women, whose
waist was often shorter in front than in
the D2ch@ OF even Ole W1OSt DCft htiCs III
deviation as it encircled her, with one
whose waist line slants. for confirmation
of this assertion-but, and here comes
the usual difficulty with extremists, there
is really no necessity for placing the belt
half way up the back in order to obtain
that slant.
That's what man. women do, however.
They place their girdle at least two or
\ ~4a 5oof.oc ala.-a ~ ,rrofcf linn In tho
back and then draw it out about to the
waist proper in front. by DIM of which
manipulation they manage TO obtain a
slant" which makes them look more
than a trifie deformed.
The slanting waist line on a woman
who holds herself according TO the laws
prescribed by health and beauty and
whose figure is normal, arranges itself.
There is no trick about it, and the belt
ought to require neither pins, nor hooks,
nor screws to keep 1t in position. The
waist itself slants-therefore the girdle
must. The latter should not be worn too
tight, however, if the effect is to be of the
best.
When you ask what colors are to be
worn throughout the autumn months
one can safely answer, Wear anything
that is becoming from black to white, |
touching all the colors on the way" says
the "Woman's Home Companion" Hello
tropes and viclets are out in new shades,
and when becoming are stylish and pref
ty. Gray is much worn. and has honest
ly won the name Of 'aristocratic" as coll
oring. The soft light grays are more
worn than those of blush tint, and are
mostly made Of solid color, and should
be worn with an all-black hat trimmed
in soft ostrich and tuIle effect. For very
dressy carriage or calling wear many
women affect the all white hat with
the gray gown, and invariably the hat
has a bird of Paradise in white as a
trimming. Many shade Of blue are an
nouneed for autumn, but are mostly worn
in the morning. The new tan shades
run much lighter.
Buy beef that is a clear cherry red
color. with fat of light straw color. Veal
from calves not more than six weeks old
nor less than four. Mutton should be fat
and the fat clear. hard and white. Pork
select with care. seeing that the lean Is
fine grained and both lean and fat very
white. In buying poultry remember that
ducks when young feel tender under the
wings, and the web Of the foot is trans