Daily inter mountain. [volume] (Butte, Mont.) 1881-1901, 1899-10-21

Paris. Oct. 1.-THE efforts hat have
been made for the past two years to Dust
the shirt waist from the wardrobe of the
we'll dressed woman have at length been
" with some degree of success.
Like Banquo's ghost the shirt w aist re-
mains but in a slightly changed position.
1t is still a separate waist but as a con-
cession to the fashion for full suits 1t
matches the skirt in color if not in ma
terial.
MANY of the leading ~coutourieres make
these waists out OF light weight cloth,
{>wAr as tweed Of the thin English make,
Scotch suiting, ladies' cloth and the
fin 7 and n of serge. They conf
bir xhem with thinner materials, giving
the Weed a seamless yoke of taffeta over
laid with Venetian lace of the heavy va
riety and like as not they fit the tweed
with a square. neck of thin velvet, Dor
dered with shirred ribbon or with tucks
of silk. or the tiniest edging.
The next concession to the full suit
idea is the short basque. Instead OF be-
ing cut off at the waist line and blous-
ing over it the shirt waist fits the figure
very tightly and is finished below the belt
line. You see these waists in the Win
doWs, we'll fitted and fully trimmed. so
that you have onl yto make your selec-
ton in order ia get something to match
your skirt, and thus you have a SUIT.
A trimming of narrow ruchesses is used
for bordering the short basque. Thin
silk doubled and shirred upon both edges
making a thick soft border. This is
sewed upon the edge of the basque and
also upon the waist in a way to form
large Grecian designs which are in them
selves a very becoming trimming. 1T
may be said in favor of the basque that it
tends to slender the figure, though it is
not as comfortable or as universally well
fitting as the blouse
The woke is the universal rule for the
separate waist. 1t may be of any shape
and of any size from the tiny curve to the
deep V which the French call ito the
heart but it must be of a contrasting
material and must be delicately outlined
with a trimming of some sort.
The fashion Of combining thin and
thick materials still prevails, the most
delicate of g%arnitures being used with all
materials, not forgetting furs.
The Elton has ceased to be an outdoor
garment. 1t is made into small and
curious devices which are used as a trim
ming. or an overdress, to the thick SILK
waist. Quite an economic fashion, this
of covering the silk waist with a tiny
Jacket so cut as to be ornamental yet de-
signed in such a way that it might hide
all disfiguration of soil or wear.
Royale silk is the term applied to silk
which has been beaded. the beading may
be in black or in colored beads, not mat
ter which. Striped silk with the narrow
est pin stripes is treated to a trimming OF
small steel or jet beads and the whole is
then known as silk royale. Garniture
royale. as l told you last week, is a lace
which is profusely beaded with beads OF
all colors put on without design and sc
producing an irridescent shade which is
very dressy.
Mrs. Coleman Drayton Haig, who was
before her marriage, Miss Aston, was in
Paris recently ordering shirt waists fol
winter wear. One was quite deserving OF
notice. It's vest was of pastel blue chit
fon shirred over chiffon of pastel pink
The yoke was white satin garnitured
with cut steel beads. Over the waist was
worn a bolero of white satin scalloped
around the edges, which were very iregu-
lar, with steel braid; and the entire DO.
Zero was bordered with the narrowes1
band of seal. The sleeves were the typi-
cal tight fitting sleeves with a very large
bell aroun the hand, also bordered witt
seal.