The age-herald., 1899-07-30
THE FIRST FALL STYLES
 GOWNS ARE TAILOR-MADE

Paris, June s0.-A morning spent in the nelghborhood of the Rue de Ia Paix or the Boulevard Haussman convinces one that the smart set is back again in Paris for few days getting ready for the fall house parties where the shooting will claim their attention.
 The shops are crowded with fashionable women who are ordering their trousseaux now. During these last few days of Au- gust before the light wraps are donned one has splendid chance to record the chic tailor built gowns worn by these smart shoppers a gown that is summery yet neat and snug.
 Gray remains popular especially the shade termed nickel" "Prune-violette," a subdued bluisb violet vies with gray in popularity. Then the beige shades are much worn. Among greens one sees "En- glish green most, and there is a tendency to revive tobacco brown"
 NEW MATERIALS.
 The chosen materials for tailor built gowns are short whipcords, homespuns covert cloth, rough coarse serges, and sat in wool" new material with smooth shim- mery surface.
 Perhaps the most striking features of this seasons tailor built gowns are their sleeves, which are very close fitting. and the tunics and their trimmings of buttons In spite of all that the practical women have written and said against trailing street gowns these tailor made gowns touch all around. and even have a suspicion of I train at the back.
 One made of bege and violet shot whip- cord was very simple The skirt was made close fitting around the top and the fulness commenced just at the knees where it fell in full round folds at the back that touch- ed the prOOnd Al of apron there was narrow panel of the same goods inserted, with the edges strapped
 The eorsage of the whpcord was made with a plain back and a full front that crossed over chemisette of white satin to the left side There 1t was fastened by fancy buttons. The sleeves of the cloth were plain and close fitting with a slight bell flare over the hand A crush collar and crisp cravat bow of plaid violet and white satin ribbon. gave jaunty little fin ish to the neck. Tbe same ribbon was em- ployed for the crush girdle that was finish ed at the left side with a bow.
 pretty very subdued gown was made of ''prune violette" homspun. The skirt which fitted close around the hips had quite clinging effect in spite of the great amount of fitness that was noticeable from the knees down. It was trimmed about half way with bands of prune ribbon velvet ar ranged in vandylSe points.
 HOMESPUN DESIGN.
 The jacket was a close fitting affair with long. full basques forming point at the back. At the front they were rounded and very much cut away. It opened over full gathered vest of purne crepe de chine that was finished at the neck with full butter fly bow of the same. The narrow reveres and the collar were of homespun scarf of the crepe de chine belted in the vest and hung down the left side of the apron to within few inches of the bottom of the skirt.
 The sleeves were close fitting and were without even a suggestion of fitness at the tops. They were finished with three bands of the velvet. A single velvet band outlined the edge of the full basques.
 very attractive model exhibited at one of the shops was made of satin wooP' in two shades of gray. "nickel" and lighter shade. The skirt was made with a tunic of the nickel" gray over a full clinging underskirt of the lighter shade that touched the ground all around Only at the right side was the underskirt visible where the tunic was cut mp into rounding point There it was ornamented with an enormous complicated bow-knot cut out of the darker