Omaha daily bee., 1899-01-15
FASHIONS FORECAST FOR 90.
Trains, Overskirts, Light sleeves,
HiGh Collars and Rumes.

High collars ana ltu"eS'
NEW YORK, Jan. 12-IIavlng rung out
the old year. the caterers of fashions follies
are ringing in a number OF changes. II not
distinct novelties. What we have kept over
from last year are chiefly trains. long tight
sleeves and high, tight collars, but on these
things the dress makers are going to exer-
else an improving influence. They are
pledged to cut every gown en- train, even tie
pretty muslins and dimities and the ador-
able chintzes that are glorifying the January
openings, and they have sworn themselves
not to make another silk or cotton dress
without an overskirt.
These drapperies will at first be only the
long skirts of the coat shaped dress waists,
such as are already seen here and there,
but 1t does not require very prophetic soul
to see that by Easter time the full-fedged
overdress will be enjoying undisputed reign
For the present 1t falls from the hips in
what is called peplum form to the knees in
front and longer behind, though the popular
ty OF the Louis XIV fronts Is unabated.
The study OF the tailors is always after
long perpendicular lines and nothing short
and bunchy is allowed about the hips.
Spring Suggestions.
When the time comes to discuss wash
goods 1t will be found that all reliance is to
rufie. Just now we are still too much occu-
pied by woolens and furs to think without
a shiver OF cotton and linen, but it is as
well to know that the present latitude Of
fashion allows a dresswaist to be cut with
knee-long tails or short of at the hips.
Where a close basque is adopted 1t Is in
variably cut In a series Of seven graceful
scallops about the hips. These curves are
not ornamented with anything, and in fact,
after a season OF frlvolity, the tailor dress
is regaining its old tidy simplicity Of out
line.
At the start Of the year number Of
handsome new tailor frocks have been
noticed, and chiefly In periwinkle blue.
Their waists fit, back and front, without a
wrinkle, the skirt is fully trained, of course,
and pronounced tendency Is toward a re-
newal Of what used to be known as COM
plete suit; that Is, waist and skirt and
then longish coat OF the same goods.
Smart JabOts.
With such costumes the elevating in
fluence OF the smart jabot is most keenly
felt. There are jabots and jabots, but the
one that now has the longest train OF fol-
lowers Is the largest. 1t Is either a very
wide limousine ribbon folded twice about
the neck and tied in really gigantic bow
in front. or 1t is long piece OF white satin,
laid twice around the throat, tied in four
finland or Ardsley knot in front and let
ting fall couple OF lace edged ends nearly
to the knees. With the limousine ribbon a
collar that has turnover hemstitched bands
is worn, and a smart little pin is thrust
through the knot of the bow. Butterfly
bows OF white pale blue and Nile green
tulle or chiffon, fastened to a stock OF the
same, are still seen broadcast among the
women whose winter coats are dark and
button high. These airy nothings the
tailors themselves not only recommend but
make.
In spite Of prejudice women continue,
more or less, to use certain types Of plaid
goods. The Mackenzie. Macdonald, Forbes
and Campbell checks still brighten our
landscape and the quite simple skirts are
made up with bias seam down the front.
Such skirts in the dark green. blue and vlo-
let Macdonald plaid are purchaseable at the
January sales, prettily made up on silk
foundations and the proper thing to wear
with one Is a coat body Of solid green, blue
or violet cloth scalloped over the hips,
clasping the figure snugly with small plaid
faced revers turning back Just under the
chin and chiffon jabot Towering out on
this.
Apsoiuteiy sluipie, COIuIOTtaDIe sleeves are
typical Of all these dresses. The wrist is
long, but cut off plainly round the hand, and
the one bit Of coquettry the tailors assume
is more or less decoration on coats by the
aid Of small bullet shaped enameled buttons.
These buttons. by the way, are peculiar to
1899 and are different from the colored crys-
tai ones that are still in good fashionable
standing.
Growing Collars.
II you question both tailors and dress.
makers as to collars they will say that ex-
celsior is still the cry in that direction.
BY constant wear Of very high neckbands
women are destroying all the beauty Of their
throats and giving their heads stiff.
naughty poise. A fair share OF collars are
made OF silk or satin finely pleated on to
the stiffest buckram and cut with points to
mt high behind the ear. Newer than that
is collar cut with the earpoints and then
third higher peak directly In the back
This rear peak often runs half way up the
height OF the head and sometimes It is spill,
open down the center and revers spread
away, faced with bright color or lace.
The serviceable gown, the toilet that At,
into every breach and is admissible on al
occasions is still black. 1t has an under
skirt and waist of black silk that, by pref
erence Is not taffeta, but that Is cut to a
ana appear like princess slip, tight on tn,
hips and wide at the foot Over this fall,
rather coarse black silk honeycomb Russia,
net. garntshed In either Of two ways: will
spangles or with three sizes of black sill
braid. The braid Is rather the smarter O
the two, and 1t describes large, fanclfuI fig
ures over the dropnet skirt and net body
Such gown Ia practically indestructabl
and displays a richness OF effect that is al
ways agreeable. II 1t is made up so that tn
sleeves can be removed and the top of tn
waist lifted out 1t can serve equally we'll a
. grand dinner or sober church costume
With gowns like these, and they are tire
mendously popular, women wear necklace
OF the brightest outfit with some jewele
pendant string on the lowest chain, an
they put tall black spangled tulle wings Il
their hair.
The serviceable evening gown for
young girl is par excellence Tosca net 1
BLACK, made over a second net skirt OF pal
blue. or green, or yellow which in turn
hung upon an underskirt Of soft silk o
sateen the same shade. The black top skir
may be hung with spangles. but somethin
more economical as well as newer is a ne
skirt with designs worked out on 1t 1
threads OF colored chenille
ssnh Arno l.