The Republican journal., 1899-12-28
theatre, or that of Donna Amalia. is

matter of fancy. In the foyer of the las
named splendid theatre stands celebra,
ted work of art, the ceramic master pie &C
OF Bordallo Pnheiro-a colossal fai ence
vase named Beethoven" with its beau
tiful glazed allegorical relief carvings
One of the largest Pracas dos Torros it
the world disgraces Lisbon, with "sta,
performers every day in the year. But
Gin justice be it said that the Portuguese
hull-fght is by no means so brutal as tina.
OF Spain, or even of Cuba and Mexico on
our side of the world. Here the poor,
bewildered bull has less chance for him.
self than elsewhere. his horns being
blunted and covered but he is seldom
killed or seriously wounded. Though the
American spectator longs to see the pro-
fessonal tormenters of defenseless animals
receive the punishment they deserve his
interest centres chiefly in the stirring
music,t he excited populace filling the
enormous phitheatrical galleries of the
arena, and the beautiful gay coloroo eos.
tunes of the bandilleros and picadores.
Besides the parks above mentioned, the
world renowned Botanical Garden and he
splendid terraces Of the Esplanade Ia
Louis Philippe, there are five sma er
public gardens, all much frequented by
well dressed crowds in the evenings. The
dark little shops of Lisbon, with their
scanty display OF poor goods, are lot
worth glance-eXcepting always Tie
gold smith S shops, with their queer IA
tive ornaments, card eases, fan stilss,
etc, in tilagree work; the curio- Ships
found among a world of trash, and tie
pawn shops, filed to Overlooking with be
heirlooms Of an impoverished nobil y
The markets are more interesting, til
their many varieties of fish and fru Is.
golden oranges and luscious grapes. of
which you may buy more than you an
carry for mil refs to the value of an Ameri-
can nickel; country produce, fat beef nd
mutton from the Douro valley, and esrsc-
tally the always picturesque peasan ry
in their characteristic costumes.
The hotels of Lisbon are poor OF the poor
est but SO beautifully hospitable are he
people that the stranger with a lette of
Introduction, or with shadow of claim
upon anybody, is surelof most gracious IN =
tertainment in private houses The large
English colony lives in the elevated is
trict known as Buenos Aires while the For
tuguese aristocracy are mostly found in he
vicinity of the Ajudea palace, the fash n
able suburbs of Alcantara and Cascaes,
and along the sunny hillsides overlooking
Tagus bay. OF course the capital is the
headquarters of the royal army, and bar
racks for the troops and municipal guards
are scattered all over the city The IN
dersized, hungry looking soldiers remind
one of Cuba in war time only these are
more gorgeously uniformed, if not better
fed. than were the Spanish army in the
West. The chief naval and military arse
mails of the kingdom are also here and at
tacAed to the former are a naval school,
not unlike our Annapolis, and photograph
zeal office, ana very creditable museum
OF colonial products.
Among many historic landmarks which
the visitor in Lisbon must not omit is the
ancient conyent-church dos Hierongmos,
which contains the magnificent marble
tOmbs of Camoens. Nasco da Cana and
! the great Portuguese historian, Alexandra
| Herculano. Equally important is the old
convent of St Vincent, high up on a hill
I overlooking the far stretching shores of
the Tagus, which has been transformed
| there is the Quintade Monserrate, where
/ the poet Byron used to live, which is now
the winter home of Lady Cooke, Wis
countess de Montserrat, of London. Peo-
Pile on our side of the Atlantic will re-
member the lady as Tennie Claff1in, for
merly of New York, sister of Victoria
| Woodruff, both famous apostles of female
suffrage.
One never wearies of the hilltop views
above Lisbon-the mighty river running
through semi-tropic paradise; the state
| ly and historic monuments of antiquity
| amid endless colonies Of palaces, villas and
luxuriant gardens Into the latest royal
palace, with its pinnacles. domes and ter
races, was incorporated a fifteenth centu-
ry convent, which for two hundred years
stood alone on Pima mountain. The Pa
laeio Real, another royal residence, was
built by Ferdinand of Coburg upon tn
ruins of the ancient Castillo dos Mouros,
''castle of the dead The royal palace
of Cintra, erected by John l. in the four
teenth century, was built upon the ruins
of a Moorish castle, by Mozarabic work
men, in semi Moorish style. But among
all the remarkable specimens of archi-
lecture, ancient and modern, in the Por-
tuguese capital, none is really greater
work than the aqueduct, which brings
water to the city from Bellas village,
twelve miles away. 1t is partly conducted
under ground, but in the vicinity of Lis
bon crosses a deep valley, which is span
ned for nearly three thousand feet by
bridgeEof thirty arches, the Hottest of