Evening star., 1899-07-15
1t is Something Better Than the Old
Slated Affair.
SHEER FABRICS USED In MAKING
Canvas Hats Have Only a Huge
Hen Feather.
STARCHLESS PIQUE STOCKS
pecial Correspondence of The Evening Star.

NEW YORK. July 13 1890.
A good many women think that the diff
ference between golf bonnet and q sun
bonnet of the latter-day make is something
like the difference which a clever woman
of my acquaintance used to make between
tea gown and a wrapper or house gown
She was not very wealthy, but she was
dainty, and her few belongings had an
air about them which many modistes and
much money often fail to produce She
had challiS gown-white, with lavender
flowers in it-trmmed with much heavy
imitation Russian lace and lavender India
silk under the lace. When she appeared
at breakfast in this pretty challis affair it
was wrapper. 1 have seen her don it at
4 O'Clock to pour tea, and carefully al
lude to it as a tea gown, and stringently
insist that every one else should forget
she had ever heard her call it a wrapper.
Several nights when she was not at all
well and did not dress for dinner, she wore
what she called house gown. In spite of
all arguments to the contrary, there must
be something in a name. For had she not
told me she was attired in a house gown
l should have been tempted to think her
robe was a concoction of challis, with Law
ender flowers figure, trimmed with lace and
India silk.
The Fine Distinction.
But there really is more difference be-
tween a golf bonnet and a sun bonnet than
that involved in name. 1t is a differ
ence of comparison and it begins and ends
in flare. That is, the true golf bonnet
flares more pronouncedly than the sun bon
net. Neither of these dainty, fetching af-
fairs is like the old Slated sun bonnet in
which a woman was buried as completely
as IL her face was veiled in the manner in
which we are led to believe some eastern
women are supposed to conceal theirs The
very deepest bonnet of the day comes be-
yond the chin but very little and makes
soft shade for the eyes which only makes
them seem brighter and more alluring. In
fact, as you will notice in the illustration,
some golf bonnetS are simply little modi-
fled piQue affairs which are simply an ex-
cuse to appear without a stiff hat when
one has on a dainty summer gown which
looks better with soft finish over the
hair.
Mode of Organdie and Lace.
With the old-fashioned yet modified bon
net pinking as a trimming is much used,
and no golf bonnets are more attractive
than those with the several double pinked
ruff1es of their own material about the stiff
ened crown. Almost every sheer and pretty
summer fabric is used in making these bon
nets. Figured or plain organdies are seen
most in the shops, but among more elabo-
rate designs one may find embroidered null
ana creations OF nalnSOOk trimmed with
real Valenciennes, which are worn by girls
who have the proverbial silver spoon IN
their possession, and who, having had baby
caps of the softest, finest and most eN-
pensive materials, are still lucky enough 10
have their grown-up caps of the same sort
There are some fancy taffeta sun bOnnets
which are really beautiful, but the scheme
of bonnet of this sort is best carried out
in some material which can wash. In fact,
this summer the odor of benzine or naphtha
from delicate silks which have to be cleaned
constantly has been so associated in my
mind with dainty women who should sug-
gest nothing but orris root that / am almost
ready to preach that no one should wear
in silk any garment which must be often
cleaned, unless she sends it to the few dry
cleaners from which silks return quite
odorlesS. This is not economy, for it is
cheaper to wear silk and clean 1t oneself
with naphtha than to pay enormous laun-
dry bills. but really this naphtha odor is
beginning to permeate everything to such
an extent that it is a positive nuisance.
Stylish in Heavy Pfquec.
But to return from the naphtha odor to
materials. Pique and gingham are both
very popular and very serviceable, and Irish
dimity with its little line occurring at close
intervals. is very pretty. The pique bon
nets should be made quite small as if they
come down over the ears at all they will
be found very warm. In fact, 1t is better,
in choosing pattern or model for golf
bonnet or a sun bonnet, TO De not IuTeu Dg
the deep and Notwithstanding one with
heavy shadows over the eyes, which quite
conceal the ears For they are warm.
Choose instead a bonnet with a droop down
over the eyes and a roundup over the ears,
which gives one a chance to get a little
breeze on a hot summer day.
If these bonnets are made at home the
double brm should have an interlining and
should also be corded with at least three
rows of cording to make 1t keep its shape.
Some of them are wired in such man.
rer that they can be turned back over the
face most coquettishly. One of the pret-
test bonnets for service which was made
up this spring was of pink gingham with
two ruffies of gfngham shading the face.
There a full crown, quite like that in
the old-fashioned sun homeland little pink
skirts falling over the back of the neck,
then there were strings about five inches
wide which one could have tied. But l
have yet to see these strings used, al
though on some young faces a bonnet tied
under the chin is most fetching.
Stitched Canvas Hats.
Leaving the fascinating subject of bon
nets which one may or may not wear when
playing the mobile game of golf" and
other games which require a head covering
which is picturesque and serviceabe, let
us look for moment at the stitched can
vas hat which is illustrated. The stitched
canvas hats were first brought out by a
firm of hatters who have no price less than
IS and who at that price sell their very
plainest hats with ease. There are places
now where these hats can be had for much
less, and they are among the smartest and
most serviceable of the summers outing
wardrobe. They are ever so much better
than the wide curved brim straws. for they
can be bent into any shape and they are
not seen half as often, which is a great
argument in their favor. The only trim
ming favored on these hats, beside the
band which goes around them. is huge
hen feather, so one need not mourn the
slaughter of song birds to add to its adorn-
ment. Anything is better than wearing
birds feathers and wondering what
charming note was stilled to adorn for a
few short months ones headgear, but why
in our rage for feathers of some sort We
should wear the mournful trailing pinion
of the domestic hen as we are doing this
season passes the comprehension OF the
artistic eye
To Go with the Bonnet.
With golf bonnets are worn the pique
stocks. which have long ends and short
bows These are tied about pique collar.
This pique collar is JOY and many q wo-
man has started on her summer outing with