The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1899-01-29
NOW FOR THE Reign
OF THE ROSEBUD
1t Dominates Every New Fab
ric in Vogue.
Vernal Temptations in Silk and
Cotton Ginghams.
The CoGuettish Shirt Waist of 20.
Philippine Muslin in Fashions
Lcad-Ncw Ascot Knots.

wearing. Challies, organizes, Swiss mus
Inns. gnghams and silks are wreathed and
spec5led, spotted and dotted with coquet-
fish baby roses from the romantic moss
bud to the close sheathed tiny button rose.
All this, Of course, goes only TO prove that
we are in for a pink spring, instead of 4
lilac, violet or corn flower blue one. There
is indeed matter for n prolonged and unde-
niably thrilling teacup talk of coming
modes already spread forth on the coun
tiers. Abridged information must make it
known that the favorite organde pattern
is that of a fine rose vine in bud. and
creeping over a trellis pattern in faint
green or pale yellow. In dimity and a
beautiful new starchless muslin called
Philippine, the prim baby rose is placed
formally inside a tiny check square or reg
ular narrow bands of green run in Baya-
dere or perpendicular stripes between
straight narrow trails of roses.
The cloudlike silk muslins that promise
10 be the most fashionable summer ball
gowns have full-blown roses in two shades
OF pink or in yellow and red on their faint
blue. deep cream or lemon tinted back
grounds. and for the Easter bridesmaids
these are going TO be the most fashionable
possible habits.
Zephyr ginghams and piques, with dam
ask stripes or flower patterns, are going
TO have the first choice in wash goods,
while all the colored cotton goods from
Scotland show small plaids in two colors,
with shirred stripes. More interesting for
the moment, though, than these vernal
temptations is the great variety OF light
weight woods that shops are showing. En-
phatically from Paris comes the law that
less silk and more wool is to be typical
of the opening and the very most lovely
spring calling, driving, theauregoing, and
reception toilets, garden party, and even
walking suits must touch 4 high key in
color.
Already We see how the leading dress
makers have their worlrooms full of pale
grey suits, deliberately garnished with
white panels, facings, vests, and embFoid-
cry At opera matinees in New York the
box holders appear in pure white cloth
suits trimmed with silver and white lace,
and flashing sequins. That is just the be-
ginning Of revolution in dress.
If you ask in the shops for the new
spring things they viii show you first OF
all French Henrietta cloth. That is guar
anteed 10 usurp the place of challie to
great extent. II is just as light and cool
and graceful as challie; it is no more ex-
pensive and il wears very much better. Its
Ightness enables one TO indulge in drap-
ed skirt without fear OF weight and its
cleanliness proves it an excellent goods for
travel use. Women who are buying 1t push
aside the navy blue, olive green, and wood
brown for French blue, ash grey willow
green, biscuit pink, and pale tans; they
know what the future is going to bring
forth.
All genuine vitality of the shoppers at
present is concentrated about the shirt
waist counter If forerunning signals
mean anything, We are sure TO wear many
white cambria and lawn shirt waists after
Easter, rather giving them the preference
over the cClored bingham variety Crisp
white French cambria blouses having the
whole sleeves and body laid in what are
called lingerie tucks. is one popular fig
ure, and the fronts of all shirts blouse Just
a little. Another favorite species turns
back small reyers over the bust from a
dickey that is finely tucked or is of plain
white Numbered linen and these white
shirts are allowed. The stiff cuff is re-
placed By one shaped to fall over the hand
and tucked shoulder caps are not uncom-
mon.
In the colored goods the most expensive
shirts have their white collars made OF a
piece with the neckband and the collar
rolls over in continuous narrow round.
or a series of pretty leaf-like scallops as
often as not. Less expensive bingham
waists are made wisely with as many as
three detachable collars. One a high.
white choker. another with small broken
points OF linen in a solid tone that echoes
the predominating color in the shirt. while
the third is rolling band in white.
The really sensible pique stock is COM
ing back again, with the difference that
its long bingham ends are not shaped and
interlined to fold into a four-in- hand OF
Ascot knot, but are hemmed on the edge
and ties in big breezy bowknot with
ends falling nearly TO the waist One
charm of this fashion is that whoever
makes her own shirt waists at home can
easily whip together her own neclties
and the laundress will have no difficulty
with peculiarities Of shape. Wide spotted
ribbons, lengths of soft silk and white
lawn are all material for the new ties
ana nothing Will be considered more fit
ting with pink striped shirt waist than
ue made OF white or cream point d'es-
prit knotted in very liberal front bow.
Linen and Bingham waists all show
small yokes cut in three points The mid
die one is long and narrow. to either side
OF 1t are smaller, blunter ones and line
OF ornamented machine stitching or Tur-
rem boning follows the gothic points of
the yoke that still comes forward ON the
shoulder a good deal Sleeves are very
much what they we're last summer and M
closer than ever, when they are out on
the straight masculine plan When the
season arrives we are going TO have our
quota or pique shirts, but in the inter.
mediate season blouses of pretty nal,
cioth decorated with ribbon braid and fit.
ted, even whaleboned, to the figure ar.
adopted indoors. Pink blue, green. ant
yellow shirts are picked out in dots of :
contrasting colors and worn with tucked
lawn dickeys and any dark suitable skirt
Alter all women seem TO have had
enough of silk. They are showing a pref.
erence for cloth all along the line of spriDa
purchases One novelty is a light tar
goods with narrow black silk MORE strip,
IN IL Another spring suitinR is check in
dark blue and yellow. The check Is small
and while the blue square is of wool IN,
yellow one is silk under a coat of soIid
dark blue cloth. There YOU have one NJ
tpe conquering combinations of the mo.
meht, among those who are so lucky n,
70 seek Florida. California, Bermuda. OF
the south of France at the moment.
A feature of the travelling dress as {. I.
now IN its perfection is its long coat. Tail.
ors turn out cloth gowns in three pieces-
skirt, shirt, and highwayman coat. ,Tb,
skirt in this instance is lust one of tn,
close fitting affairs popular. The shirt /,
SIX or wool, as you please, but the coat /.
the thing. II drops well-nigh 10 the heel
MS the body snugly clear up TO the chin
taxes the hips without a wrinkle, bu
below It falls In sort of upconscjou,
drapery. Sometimes is closes with n fl
front and concealed buttons, all seam
strapped and the hem turned up a it'll
above the skirts foot and straight around
In other cases ii closes with series O
handsome braid ornaments from shoulde
down, and is artistically shaped Irregular
al the bottom. shorter in front than he
hind. ANY way you please TO have it, tn
long coat Is predominant and a necessar
part, not only of the spring traveller
wardrobe, but belongs in that of the stay