Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-10-26
IN EMlNISCENT MOOD
Old-Time Caterer Relates His Experiences
on Famous Occasions.
Served Under Early Administrations
at White House Functions and
In Other Noted Events.

men are at their best when the latter
gan is satisfied remarked John A. Gray.
ST., the well-known colored steward and
chef, to a Star reporter, there is no tell
ing what has been the influence of our
humble calling in times past, for we were
the purveyors to the leading men of the
| nation, who had much to do in shaping
the policy Of the government. In my day
] have served in the stewardship of the old
Metropolitan Club H and 18th streets; the
Washington Gov. Shepherdsl New York
avenue near 14th street, which l resigned
to enter the legislature, and three years at
the Army and Navy Club, before '9S be-
sides filling that position to members of the
cabinet and others, and, of course 1 have
seen much. In the old days there We're a
number of white caterers here some of
Wnom were confectioners among them
k1nchey, little before my time; Potentina
VIVIAN, Favier, Gautier, Crutchet, Column
BUS, Casparf and Kuhl, all but the last now
dead. Of my own race there were Ed Sa-
voy. James Worm1ey Gurdon Snowden.
Lind.ey Muse, Sam Proctor, Henry Neal
All barber, George Garrison. John Brent,
Phil holland. l. Landic Ananias Herbert,
and L believe l am the only colored stew
ard of the days before the war now living.
Had Monopoly.
THE white stewards had most of the
business, particularly the special dinners,
then employed by them. and generally we
Were IN permanent places ard our patron
age was largely the southern people. who
were accustomed to the co.ored cook and
waiter. As rule, both the white and COL
ored IN the profession were too busily en-
pioyed during the season to allow any
friction to mar their relations, and it was
| a rare occasion when white chef pre-
pared dinner that some of US were not
| called to assist
Il some rriJo ~
PIE OF Old made a name professionally and
as laW-abiding citizen. The only charge
I recai! against colored member of the
| fraternity that against Snow 1t was
10 the effect that he had slaudered the
| white ladies of Washington, and he barely
escaped the hands of mob This was
| When was very small, and l have often
heard that there were doubts as to his
| guilt.
As a waiting boy to Mr.. Van Buren,"
| sald Mr.. Gray, Il started life when about
zen years OF age. Mr.. Van Buren, had
| closed his term as President, and was the
guest of Mr.. Gilpn his Attorney General.
| in one of the houses we tEen called the
twins. on G street between 18th and 18th
| vice there. l think it was March 7 thar
! MI Van Buren, left for New York. and I
remember that the last call he made en-
! route to the depot, then at PENNSYLVANIA
avenue and I'd street northwest was at the
w mite House, to take leave of President
Harrison. The party remained two DAYS
at BarnumS, in Baltimore two or three
days at Heads Mansion House in PbiIa
Gelphld, ana brought up at the Carleton
House. New York, remaining at the latter
| several days, and then Mr.. Van Buren, put
up at the house of a friend on washington
square. AT several places on the route he
party was cheered, and in the .itios dele
cations called and presented addresses
serenaded by COIored Band,
zone feature was a serenade given Mr.,
van Buren, in Philadelphia by Frank John
sons colored band. L remember when less
IMAM a month after news came of the death
OF Gen Harrison Mr.. Van Buren, was
! much affected and he rode as mourner
IN the procession in memory of the Presi-
| dent in New York
Upon reaching his farm, Lindenwald
near klnderhook, he seemed much pleased
with the Quietness OF the plfcc-in anticipa-
Iion OF rest During the eighteen months
l served him he seldom left his home, and
aside from his sons, who frequently came
out, there were few visitors to the place
Returning home" said Mr. Gray, late
In 1872, ! next found employment in the
United States navy, serving on the North
Carolina, Hudson and WASHINGTON as a
ward room boy under Capt, afterward
Commodore, Steadman, and after NV dis
charge came home, 1t little time l was
again in service, this time as steward or
caterer Entering the employment of Mr.
:. M Conrad (Secretary of War under
President tfllmore), in 1850, 1 served as
sISH al II! mat nOuSe-the old DIR. Hunt
1dence on F street between 18th and 18th
streets-for seven years. Mr.. Guthrie the
secretary of the Treasury under Cen
PIERCE took the house when Mr.. Conrad
LETT, ana continued me as steward till he
retired, in 1857. As such [ had full charge
of the dinners, parties and receptions given
IN the house and officiated also at dinners
ana other occasions of ceremony ar Post
master General Halls on G street on
poslte the patent office; jefferson Davis
on 18th street above f street; Secretary of
the Navy Dobbin on [ street near ISL
street, and others.
buchanan Administration.
My experience was more varied" con-
tinued the old caterier, under Mr.. Ru
chanan's administration, for 1 was then a
public steward and waiter acting as one
or the other at many entertainments. 1 re-
call serving Vice President Breckinridge.
Mr.. Alex. Stephens and Mr.. j. w. Steven
son OF Kentucky, on 9Th street above d
street; Mr.. John B. Floyd, on | street near
l4th street; Mr.. Jacob Thompson, 18th and
q streets, and Mr.. Howell Cobb 18th and
l streets.
Il served at the Inauguration ball sumner
OF Gen. Taylor, under Mr.. Gauter at Mr.
to Mr.. Chase, Mr.. Webster Senator benton
and others. During Mr.. Fiilmore's admin
istration l went messenger to him and
the cabinet on trip to Boston, and was
steward to Secretary Stanton Generals
Meigs, Barnes and Townsend Collector
Draper of New York on an expedition to
Hilton Head and Savannah Ga. in 1865
l served the supper at Grants inaugural
ball L only wish now 1 had kept note of
the many dinners and receptions L have
served. Some were noted events and
among them was which has become
famous-that given by Judge Advocate Cen
eral Holt to Generals Grant and Sherman
and their ladies, where it is alleged, the
now celebrated will of Gen. Holt was exc
cuted.
Il remember the dinners and receptions
of jefferson Davis well,' said Mr. Gray
''and what is said of them will apply to
those given by the other southern families
These were lavish and carte blanche was
the rule. Ordinarily the dinner was served
to sixteen or twenty guests. In those DAYS
the host took the head of the table with
the hostess opposite, the ladies to the right
of the host and the gentlemen to the right
of the hostess-the special guests nearest
the ends of the table. The host laded the
soup, carved and served the plates as they
were passed by the walters, but when the
dessert was reached the work of the host
ess began. The coffee and cordial We're not
served till the guests We're seated in the
parlor.
Now, the host and hostess take the CEN
ter of the table, and the chef or steward