davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The daily sentinel., 1899-07-29
COMMISSIONERS KEEP BUSY

Equalization, Bills and Other Work Before
Them.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1899-10-22

leading modes, there might be restful
condition Of things, but it would be less
fascinating than our present state when
you never know just what is the correct
thing until you find out that you have
the wrong one.
The wheel moves slowly, perhaps, but
surely and new models are continually
in preparation in the Partisan temples
of fashion. Just what will find favor IS
not foregone conclusion, even for the
modelmakers themselves. They must
make changes or go out of the business,
and the one who can devise the model
capable Of the greatest number Of yaria-
lions has the greatest achievement. Good
taste one of the gifts Of the gods to
woman, is the best guide to success in
dress If you keep within the lines Of
fashion, but there is the rub To foresee
the special line which Is to be the inexor-
able law for whole season, when funda-
mental changes are In sight, Is not al
ways a simple matter. Yet there Is q
business side to the question, as we'll as
an artistic one, and we can trust in the
law Of extremes, which is sure to prevail
once in a period of years. We have the
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1899-10-22

that ugly fashion ten years ago, that they
would never wear such a senSeless de-
formity again. not If every other woman
In creation did it. They made similar
vows when the trained skirts went out
few years later, and yet here are thu
same women wearing sweeping skirts and
bustles with the best of them. and look
ing like frights into the bargain. They
have to do it or go without clothes. Their
work these styles IN on them
gradually, and you all know the folly of
trying to argue with your dressmaker.
She can make you feel like relic and
an idiot In just one glance and after that
you'd be glad to wear the Brooklyn
bridge or the Dewey arch If she consid-
cred either of them the correct thing.
There is just one alternative" she con-
tinued sadly, land 1 took 1t. as you all
know. That is. to make your gowns
yourself. I hate to advise any of you
to try 1t. 1 shouldn't have attempted it
myself if I'd known the sacrifices and
mental sufferings and hard work there
was in 1t. And there isn't any reward for
this sort of heroism, nor any hope of re-
ward. It's just plain martyrdom. But
since I've undertaken it I'm bound to
stick to it. and I'm learning heaps about
the making Of clothes. 1 can tell you.
This is all preliminary TO my big idea,
anu Is just 10 SHOW llldl (ileTe are plellty
of women eager to slip the bondage of
the dressmaker. They are the women to
back the new school for designing cos
tunes which I foresee. My idea is that
dressmaking should be elevated to an art,
fine art. 1t will take a great artist and
some money and lots of time to do it,
but 1t can be done for women are ready
for it. and If anybody wants to try it
I'll furnish list of patrons out Of my
own acquaintance to keep one establish
ment going perpetually. The human form
is really beautiful If it's let alone az not
twisted and bumped out artihcially The
lines are long, curved and graceful. Did
you ever notice the fine free movements
and perfect poise of the immigrant Ital-
ian women? Well. clothed according to
my theory, that sort of woman would
look like goddess.
mo, 1 don't advocate women floating
around in Greek clothes with bare or
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1899-10-22
NEWPORT.


The Woman's club will observe We'd
nesday as Housekeepers' day. Miss Julia
r. Bell as leader. Current events will
be given by Mrs. Mary Culver.
A reception will be held next Friday
evening at the residence of Mr.. and Mrs
G. NJ. Estabrooks for Rev. Lathrop. the
pastor of the M. E. church.
Mrs. Simonds, who has been the guest
of Miss Julia Bell. has gone to Seattle
to attend the national w. c. T. q. con-
vention.
Mrs. W, L. Cooper. who has been the
guest of Mrs. c. R. Wilkinson, returned
to La Crosse Monday.
The Ladies' Aid society of the M. e.
Church met Thursday with Mrs. Calder
wood, of Red Rock.
Rev and Mrs. Harrington and Miss
Josephine Arnold left Wednesday evening
for Dodge Center.
Mrs Frank Ford attended the State
Federation Of Womans' clubs at ST
Cloud.
Miss Jones entertained informally Tues
day for Rev. and Mrs Harrington.
Mrs. H. NJ Tuelle was the guest of Mrs
George Doran. of ST. Paul. Friday.
Mrs; Boice was the guest of st. Paul
friends Thursday.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1899-10-22
Continued From sixteenth Page.

birthday -e on Wednesday, Ia ieil evening.
Mrs. W. 3. Ridg is entecta ming ing
Mr.. and Mrs. Arthur Ridgeway ana
daughter of Grand Forks.
Miss Hattie Garvin will leave for Mon
tana this week with her father. She VIII
teach at Helena.
Mr.. and Mrs. e E. McCrea are enter.
tanning Miss H. and Mr.. W. Sheldon, OF
Red Wing.
Mr.. and Mrs. A. P. Nelson, of Grants
burg, Wis, spent part of the week In
Hamline.
Mr. and Mrs. E. N Tuckey are enter.
tanning their grandson, Russell Cass, Oh
Brainerd.
Mrs. Robinson Will entertain at a dime
social Tuesday evening for the M. II.
church
Mr. and Mrs. Allard will move into their
own home on Van Buren, street this week.
H. L. Powers, of Fort Dodge, 10, spent
Sunday at the home of Mrs. Fred Grant.
Prof and Mrs. A z. Drew entertained
Mrs. e. T. Morgan, of Winona, this week.
Mrs. w. S, Reed is entertaining Mrs; j,
P. Wray and F. J. Wildness, OF superior.
nisce, Mrs Will Osis, of West Superior.
Mrs. Nettie Smith has been entertain
ing Mrs. Blanchard Of Morgan. MINI.
Mrs. P. Clare will entertain the Aid So
ciety at her home next Thursday.
Louis Farley, of Barnesville, was the
guest of his sister, Mrs. L. E. Cole.
Mrs. w. L. Rich entertained Mrs. w.
c, Rice of Rush City, this week.
Miss Edith Montgomery, of Owatonna,
spent the week with her parents.
Mrs. NJ L. Holley is entertaining Mrs.
G. Gutterson, of Lake Crystal.
Miss Flosse Schove was the guest of
Hamline friends this week.
Mrs. ]. E. Rounds is visiting at her
home in Cambridge, Mass.
Miss Lulu Weber is entertaining Miss
Kenyon, of Fargo, N. D.
New York Saturday.
Miss zula Cole is teaching at High
wood.
Miss Fanny Hoyt has returned to Kas-
son.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1899-10-22

sewn on with French knots Of blue silk.
The vest is of gray panne dotted over
with cream applique lace.
Fringe by the yard is trimming to be
used very sparngly and with careful
consideration for the artistic effect. The
fringe on the French models is appar-
entity made especially for the space it
Is to fill and the prettiest of all is knot
ted by hand into the material itself
Fringe is used on the ends Of crepe de
chine and soft silk sashes and trims the
ends of the neck scarf in silk gauze, and
ribbon neckties as well. Embroidery Of
every kind known ito the dressmaker's
art is applied to gowns this season, and
so varied are the combinations that 1t
is impossible to give detailed descrip-
ton of them. One Of the many is worked
out with chenille, beads, and applique
lace in braiding designs White Renais-
sance lace braid sewn on in pattern
and the spaces filled, in with black chenille
in herring bone stitch is very effective
with a design IN the chenille outlining
either edge. What YOU have in the way
of decoration can be decided matter of
taste this season. for there Is everything
from simple rows Of machine stitching
to a, coat of mail worked with glittering
sequins Silk passementerie with chenille
bands interviewer and the whole shaped
in scallops Is an unusual trimming on one
cloth gown.
One effect Of decorating without the
trouble is gained by purchasing one Of
the new cloths covered with squares or
polka dots of velvet. Entire gowns and
long tunics are made of this. the latter
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1899-10-22

extreme in close-fitting skirts, so we can
rest assured that the plaits around the
hips will supplant the graceful model so
much worn during the past summer
The devoted admirers Of the plain skirt
still cling to the hope that it will hold
its own, as it doubtless Will, to the end
of the sea son. for the pretty gowns made
in this way cannot be all discarded for
the newer model with superfluous full
ness around the hips. Gathered skirts
have made their appearance, too, IN the
thin materials like crepe de chine, chit
fon and some Of the new soft sattns used
In pretty light colors for evening gowns
The gathering resolves itself into a Shir-
ring which extends we'll down over the
| hips, giving a fat, close effect which is
a sort Of compromise between the new
and the old Skirts of cloth are box
plated all around, or from the sides Of
| the front all across the back or made
with tucks from the front to the back
| where there are two boXplaits. Another
style of skirt shows fine tucks all around
| the hips These begin at the waist line,
| extend down four or five inches and are
1 fully an inch apart. No doubt the tsiloTs
| and dressmakers welcome this change,
| since it s:mplifies the little matter of fit
| ting, which has been SO troublesome with
the close-fitting skirts. Fullness in the
bodice or the skirt either Is a helpful
means Of disgusting defects.
With all the talk about fuller skirts,
| redingotes are very much worn In Paris
and princess dresses and polonaises are
reported from this source of. modes as
the leading styles for dressy costumes
and evening gowns. The result is OBJ
yious and we may expect at least a sea-
son of great variety in the outlines Of
dress. The TUNES certainly fit quite as
closely as ever, but some Of them are
decorated with three or five tucks di-'
recty at the back, extending five inches
below the waist. The special feature no
| ticeable in all the skirts. overdresses and
| tunics which have any fullness is the
uniform effort to give the flat, close eff
| feet. Fringe in Melted silk or chenille is
one of the seasons favored trimmings for
| the finish Of the tunic. A dark blue cloth
costume shows blue chenille fringe on
the edge Of the tunic and is otherwise
decorated with a design in cloth rings
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1899-10-22
ST. ANTHONY PARK.

The st. Anthony Park Woman's assoc
citation held its first meeting Of the year
Thursday at the home of Mrs. s. e.
Brace. The officers for the year are:
Mrs. A. R. McGill, president; Mrs. S. f.
Brace, first vice president; Mrs. w. M.
Liggett, second vice president; Mrs. Will
bur M. Todd, secretary, and Mrs. H. E.
w. Sclu3tte treasurer.
The Christian Endeavor Society Of the
Congreg ational Church has elected Of
ftcers as follows: President, Miss Nina
Whitman; vice pres dent, Frank Tisdale;
recording secretary, Aurel Halsted; cor
responding secretary, Miss Jessie Whit
man; treasurer, Edward Parker; pianist,
Miss Agnes Tisdale
The subject Of the lesson Of the History
magne." paper on AK la Chapelle'
will be given by Mrs. McGill; one on THE
Crusaders in France" by Mrs. Todd;
Hugh Capet,' by Mrs Martyr, and
william of Normandy" by Mrs. H. s.
Baker
The officers elected by the Boys Out
ing club are: President, Ray McNaugh-
ton; secretary, Harold Whitman; treas
urer, Robert Valleau.
The Ladies Aid Society of the Congre-
gational Church met Tuesday at the
home Of Mrs. Gray.
., The Ladies' Guild of St. Matthew's
Church met Tuesday at the home of Mrs.
j. H. McDermott.
The Wah-tah-was met Tuesday evening
at the home Of Miss Belle Tisdale.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1899-10-22

cloth applique in the lower edge. Inc
bodice ia aid in box plaitS, the wide col
lar Is Of velvet finished with applique like
the skirt and the vest is of tucked white
panne The necktie Of black Liberty sat
In is finished with cream applique lace
ends. Another style Of plated skirt shows
the plaits laid under and stitched down on
either side. Rows Of stitching trim the hem
and the triple collar effect Of cloth which
extends down either side of the front Is
entirely covered with stitching. One IL.
1ustration of the gathered skirts Is IN the
new crepe de chine so much used for
dressy gowns It is made with a double
skirt shirred we'll below the hips and edg-
ed with chiffon ruche Of the same cream
color. The bodice is in fine scant shir-
ring. The sleeves are Of cream lace with
no lining and lace bolero forming
round collar at the back, and having
painted effect in front makes the bodice
very dressy. Little bands of turquoise
blue velvet fastened with Rhinestone
buckles cross in front and trim the col
lar. Another very stunning model for
black velvet ribbon with heavy cream
lace insertion. The bodice is tucked in
gimps between the bands.
One Of the new redingote costumes
shown Is carried out in brown cloth
trimmed with the new fame-colored vel
vet and white satin, which, covered with
an applique lace and silk cord design,
forms thesvest. Something palmer in this
style is a tan cloth gown worn with a
white cloth vest, the striking touch be-
ing sash of black soft satin with firing
ed ends falling in front.
A novelty In an overdress turns back
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1899-10-22

falling over a velvet. skirt. Polka dots
and pin points are quite as popular as
ever, and polka-dotted silks. and velvetsi
appear in every COLOR Fancy velyets Of
all kinds are shown in the shops, and no
doubt their varied uses will equal the
number Of designs later in the season.
1t. is evident already that velvet gowns
will be the height of fashionable elegance
for dressy winter costume, not only in
black, but also in rich dark colors dotted
over with pin-head spots in white. Satin
faced cloths are as popular as ever, used
In combination with. velvet or alone, and
then there is rough cheviot which Is
very good style in the dark blues browns
and reds for morning eand travelling
gowns. Every sort Of elegance in trim
ming is applied to the smooth-fnished
cloths, but some Of the simpler modes of
using bias bands piped with black or
white satin, and shaped stitched bands Of
panne matching the cloth in color, are
quite as desirable. Black bands, piped
with white satin, are in evidence In an
imported gown of black cloth.
Some of the skirts are trimmed for their
entire length, with these bands forming
a point in front. Again they cross the
front only between the edges Of an open
tunic, and form the trimming at the
bottom of the skirt. s,rs
Black cloth gowns are decidedly good
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1899-10-22
MERRIAM PARK.

Mrs. NJ: W. Yerxa will entertain the
Programme: Sir Robert Peel, The Ter
rible Irish Famine of As" Richard Cob
den and Repeal of the Corn Laws"
Rev. ]. c. Craig, of Belvidere the new
pastor of Trinity church, has moved his
family to the park and now occupies 1850
Carroll street.
The young people of Trinity NJ E.
church gave a social Friday evening at
the home of Mr.. and Mrs w. 0. Hillman.
Mrs. E. B. McConnoughey, of Winona,
who has been visiting her daughter Mrs.
H. A. Riser, returned home last week.
Mrs; H. c. Bear who has been visiting
her sister, Mrs. G. H. Gearey, returned
to her home in St. Charles yesterday.
The Y. P. S. c. E. of Olivet Church held
their annual meeting at the home of Mr.
John Keyes Tuesday evening
Mrs. w H Borden and daughters aft
er three months outing have returned
to their home on Prior aV.
Mr. and Mrs. A. Koerner, of Litchleld,
were the guests Of their son, P. G. Koer-
ner, during the week.
DR.. F. L. BecnAey returned Thursday
morning from a few days hunting near
New Paynesville.
Miss Helen and Master Roy Ostrom en-
tertained number Of their young friends
Friday evening.
Mrs H. G. Coykendall spent part of the
week with her daughter at st. Mary
hall, Faribault.
The Foresters gave an enjoyable dane
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1899-10-22
ST. PAUL PARK.

Mr.. and Mrs. suter, of Plum City,
Wis. and Mr.. H. Zimmerman. of Man
kato. who have been the guests of Mr..
their homes.
A reception was rendered Harley Ham
mer and Oscar Johnson, members of the
Thirteenth. by students of St Paurs col
lege. Friday evening.
Mrs Frank Schahert entertained a
party of little folk Tuesday afternoon
in honor Of her sons sixth birthday.
Mr. and Mrs J. H. Laramy have issued
their tenth wedding anniversary.
were entertained by Mrs. Trumbull, CT
Merriam Park. Friday.
Miss Grace Miller, who has been the
guest of Minneapolis friends for week,
returned Wednesday.
Mr. and Mrs. c. E. Ovenshire. of Min
neapolis, were guests of Mr.. and Mrs.
John Weeks Sunday
Miss Louise Bell Is in st. Paul, the
guest of Miss Florence Dickinson Of
Laurel avenue:
Mrs Mott Kent. of La Crosse, is visiting
her parents. Mr.. and Mrs. De Cou.
Mrs. c. E. Cressey entertained Miss
Cole, of Hamline, Tuesday evening.
Miss Hattie Framm visited Miss Nc
Korm Monday and Tuesday.
Mr.. and Mrs. William Glenn are visiting
friends in Cottage Grove.
Mrs. De Roche is the guest of Mrs. John
Willoughby.
Mrs. Mary Allis returned from the city
Friday.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1899-10-22
NORTH ST. PAUL.

WIS M; MISS Maggs ee a IF Grao n Hf 3D. mrs
Clark, Mrs. j. Joyce, the Misses Rosellar
Early, Katie Roach h, and Kate Kelly Of
Michael Barrett last Friday.
At meeting of Silver Lake Lodge No.
81, K. of P, on Thursday, Philip Eigen-
W. of A charm for services rendered
some time since.
Mrs. Lena Pitts and daughter Berona,
of Wabasha, and John Markus of Smith
field, Mimi, were guests of George Luger
and family last week.
Lieut.. Eckles and Wife, Of st: Paul,
and E. A. Beebe and family, Of this vii
lage, were entertained by Mrs. H. E.
Holmes last Sunday.
Mrs. E. A. Lappine and daughter
Gladys will arrive home this afternoon
after several months visit In Spokane,
Washington.
Silver Lake Lodge No. 81, K. of P.
will give social hop next Thursday
evening. The Peerless orchestra will fur
nish music. see -
Mrs. Louis ], Manning and Miss Lii
liam Backus, of Minneapolis, were guests
of Hon. C. R. Mckinney and wife last
Sunday
Mrs. F. D. Stone, of St. Paul, and Mrs.
Victory, of Augusta, Wis, were guests
Of Mr.. and Mrs. H. R. Stone last Sun
day.
Misses Bertha Beebe and Ida Lanpher,
of New Richmond, Wis, were guests Of
3. A. Beebe and family during the week.
Fred Gosewisch arrived home Thurs
day after several weeks vacation spent
in st. Louis, Chicago and Milwaukee.
James T. and sisters Helen, Anne and
Margaret Castle leave for Washington,
D. c., tomorrow
Mrs. w. H. Morgan and daughter, of
Lincoln, Neb, have taken up their resi-
dence in town.
Mrs. w. B. Douglas of ST. Paul, was
a guest of c. R. McKenney and family
last Saturday
Miss Irene Groetsch, of Henderson, is
a guest of Miss Lizzie Gosemisch.
Miss Helen Tully is spending the Sab
bath in Minneapolis.
Miss Louise Fohl visited Minneapolis
last Sunday.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1899-10-22
DREssMAKING YEARS HENCE.
What Is Prophesied by Woman Who
Makes Her own Clothes.

ST believe" said the woman who makes
her own clothes, firmly, "that there is
a future for dressmaking''
''Um! Well, rather, as long as there's
a woman observed the .tailor-made girl
"a future went on the w. w. M. H.
o. O., with the air of a Columbus bent on
a shorter route to India, "a future that
is yet undreamed Of I've thought the
thing out, and made Investigations. and
am convinced that the possibilities Of
dressmaking haven't even been limited at
by modern modistes. The woman who
establishes the new era will some day
be recognized as one of the great bene-
factors Of her race
Sounds like a paper at woman's
club, doesn't it7' put in the frivolous
woman. COR an advertisement" added
the business woman. But the golf girl
struck her palms together and called soft
ly: go in, go in, McGuiness''
my idea Is like this pursued the w.
w. M. H. o. c., as she mounted and ad-
justed her skirts. "You know, every one
of you, that a woman Is simply help
less as to the fashions Of her dressnaker.
She can't influence or change them any
easier than she can get to the moon.
Take the present fashions in skirts. That
laced-up tight-fitting arrangement at
the back isn't becoming to one woman in
fifty, and, besides, It requires the wearing
of hustle. Now, to my personal knowl-
edge, hundreds of women made a solemn
VOW when they laid off their bustles after
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1899-10-22

style for the winter costume and more
useful in many ways than any other sort
Of dress. A touch of color in the finish
Is the Partisan idea of style, and Wheth-
er you have long. redfngote or a Jaunty
street coat use some striking contrast for
the revers. Double srevers are very eff
fective when the under one is of cloth
like the gown covered with stitching,
and the upper one of pale J1Jlue, in red
cloth, either plain or covered with en-
broidery In gold thread and silk Of the
same tint. White cloth revers edged
around with a band of colored velvet set
in with a band of embroidery or ap
plique lace are another fancy. Black vel
vet bolero Jackets with colored velvet
revers edged with fur complete some Of
the black cloth costumes.
Breitschwanz boleros are especially pref
ty for the black costume, with touch
of turquoise blue velvet peeping out in
front. 1t may be arranged in narrow
band down either side, if only a little
color is desired and finished with tur-
quoise buttons set in silver Yokes of
breitschwanz extending down the front in
a narrow vest are used in some of the
dark blue cloth gowns and the Partisan
touch is the light blue velvet finish on the
bodice. With this combination old rose is
sometimes added with pretty effect.
There are wonderful harmonies in the
contrasts of color used this season and
we find heliotrope and turquoise blue
in close proximity without thought that
1t is unusual. The success of these dur
ing combinations Is iii, the choice of
shades, which requires the skill Of an ex-
pert. n nd
Next to the black cloth gowns, beaver
and castor color are the hall mark of
smartness. The latter nmade UP with a
mignonette green panne bodice covered
below the yoke with bands of the stitch
ed cloth showing narrow peeps of the
green between is especially dainty
The first model illustrated shows a
gown with a plated skirt or overdress in
cloth cut out in an open work design Of
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1899-10-22

from the front forming a double effect at
the back. Stitching is the trimming and
wide folds with stitched edges are the
finish around the skirt. The bodice laid
in tiny tucks around the shoulders shows
a rolling collar Of velvet covered with
stitching and a lace vest. Tucks trim the
sleeves, which, like all the sleeves this
season, extend well over the hand, not
so much with a frill as a close finish
shaped to fit the hand.
Among the pretty separate waists which
have gained rather than lost popularity
Is a jacket effect alike back and front
The model is carried out in black panne
finely tucked over lace which forms the
lower portion Of the bodice; but silk IN
light colors is very pretty made in tn
way. The pretty tuck on another bodice
of blue Liberty satin is the lace revers
without lining of any sort and trimmed
around the edge with blue satin mil
liners fold. Another tucked with bodice
shows a guipure lace collar edged with
velvet,
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1899-10-22
ing party at Columbia hall Wednesday

ing party at Columbia hail Wednesday
evening.
Mr. and Mrs L. F. Hall returned Sun
day from two weeks visit in the East
his sister Mrs. James Duff, of Chicago.
Capt Hardacre spent the first of the
week squirrel hunting in Wisconsin.
Mrs. D. w. Porter returned Tuesday
from visit to Chicago.
G.. B. Hillman spent the first of the
week in Durand, Wis.
Miss Jane Doak, from Brainerd, is
home for few days.
Mrs, Lila Rowley is visiting in Rush
ford MINI.
Mrs. William Jones visited in Hastings
Friday.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1899-10-22
SOUTH ST. PAUL.

Rev. C. D. Darling, of Southern IN
diana, formerly of South ST. Paul, Wis
tied. old friends around the city this
week.
The social given by the Ladies Aid
Sociey of First Presbyterian Church
was a financial success.
Mr.. and Mrs. Abram D. Moe returned
Wisconsin.