The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-07-09
GAsTRoNoMIC NOTES.

| tlnct rs tneF mouos Oh llIe' 1he iOi'' w"
| only OF things that are specially grown or
| cured or fottened for them by people who
conNro ,bomsolvos 70 hrinninS 70 perfection
| a single alimentary or oduct, whereas the poor
| or moderately well of are obliged to subsist
w. W. " - = 80 q,
| unon commercial ailments maze or grown III
| relation IA ouantitv That family man whose
| income is SO large es to emancipate him from
considering the cost when he desires to eat
any article Of food saw ham. does not pur-
chase ham cured nv millions OF pounds In the
preot hacking bousos Of the West. but goes %
n certain dealer who receives from Canada
speclol brand Of which each niece is taken
from ,be finest breed Of hog. fed according to
n spec,eed formula that neyer varies and is
nickled smoked and curod nv methods that
secure the highest perfection Of favor OF
Whch me article Is sIseeptiDie. Ire re ors s
iavishei not IN the ordinary paoknee OF COM
merce but in a wicker hamper lined with the
oeSt Iuality or rye straw. Each nan, OF piee co
high that the most exacting pnlnte is deprived
OF the power Of protest. Thesame care is "x,
which comes to market 10 a frozen condition.
iattened in, the hin counties Of New York.
pennsylvania and northern New Jersey After
em en- a.,riie above freezinG for period
OF from thirty TO forty days before 1t is eaten.
Every article Of persha5e food that h. h. con con,
ter comes not from n creamery. but freeah
every dav from special dairy, and is made
decorative forms The same special care Is
exercised that the eggs. fish. fowl. vegetables
ps attain TO an
Sir Henry Thompson. who s strong advo.
cate OF Wha' Is caiied eIow cooking IN .ne cuIi-
nary processes OF stewinR and braising, does
not sustain TIL, as theory. but as s the re,
sun OF many years OF personal experience a
the system. but in most households procras-
t,n,tion - ~ n.onorn,ion ~ di.hos ,s No,
possible. and indifference to delay Is essential
to An eaamne OF what Pro" n rho% ,se
null "ieauS Nv e'o" cooher' Is iouhu III 'ho
method he advises In the cooking OF ham.
It must. first OF ALL lie in cold water from
eiRhe 10 tweVe hours rms soaking shouIu
10 coheluueu az 'eas' 'h,r'y -SiM hours peiore
.'e 'in,e iAeu LOT i's serving Inc uay oeiore
.hV'o - piepa'eu soou ii'ea' e'och' won
innS ond bnch ~ rh' Oil
when removed from the preliminary cold
bath in which 1t has reposed for twelve hours
nnnb Or m $1,000 III nut INTO Own d Just inrRe
Of the stock above described to cover It. The
pot is placed upon the fire and its contents al
Tho T. 70 eu,itS DOL ,o[ i've thlnu'eS ONLY;
TO cool to a temperature OF 1IO which degree
OF warmth should not be exceeded for twelve
nint ,,rod o eEace a 10 o neat en- be
end OF this time. hv means of n Thermometer
and by careful adjustment Of the gas. the
oen o. re, mas oeeb steauiiV cohIIhqed at
which would comurise those Of the ni9bt
preparation is made for leaving il so that the
to supply slight addition Of stock to to allow IIS~
for EVAPORATION During tho succeeding
hou . ba 20, ot,,ro obo |, ,o;o
taIned at about 400 This may be Increased
or diminished as the tenderness Of the ham
ton OF the thirty-sIx il is removed rom the
pot. skinned and returned to it. with the con- on
white. The ingredients Of the not are kent at
a temperature Of about 14O' until the ham is
the ionId Skinned to remove er supersuous Tat fnt
and part OF the balance reduced to a glaze in a
saucepan and placed in gravy boat apart
An English medIcoI journal "a oreat,r nm
,onnad IT, rnna - ~ 49, o 1919, 20 son-
carries it's pxiety so far as TO print interv,ews
with the chefs OF some OF the greater restau-
rants and hotels OF New York. who confirm the
worst fears Of the English periodical. One
COOK WHOSE posit'oh IN the culinary worid I'M
parts special authority to his utterances says
that 40 far IA his ohservation ooas dvananai,
T., 90 oon,,,a, -, Iii ~ 81 ~ ~
~ 30 co"hoh hn eNii III thls country tnat
esta hlishment over vh,ch ba nr.sidas ho
knows rors who 70 rot n,nro -. ,asa s,,1
IRON, u uo hrinoo IN ,ho o,,oh.xao 49,
do nor e,t but ho,, our food III o.-,,,.I
re,sop bow.ver ia +bot an. ,roaI, ,o...a
too beavv ThIs 10 nrohahIv Tho 80 oos.a.t
exclamation, for it is und enable that the aver
nge cltiZen consu mes more food at that meal
a az tba r rHE h ,,rte tnat ne may eat
speak with assurance on this iopic. Tor every
morninQ OF his life the orders for individual
ennaTing ouontItv ~ fond S nrdaredi ana the
person is particularly shocking to one trained
t. the simnls diet Of bread and coffee at the
pSo G Emron p ore n NY Wnch Is the custom
is a close Imitation OF the English fashion
than which none more pernicious can he de-
yised Another reason given for the preve.
lence OF dyspepsia among US is that American
women do not personally select the food with
which their tables are supplied Thev pnr
chase by order ana acce ut with fatalistic'non-
ndence that sent them by purveyors 10 The
fact that French and German women do their
own buying OF comestibles and eYerciee orent
disc rimination combined with n tborcn1b
Knowledge Of cooking is attributed Tie Iiaht