The record-union., 1899-09-10


In millinery will be quite as varied,
with as great a scope for personal
choice, as they have been for several
seasons past. No particular mode will
be absolute. There are turn-uD and
turn-down styles for long, short, round,
and. slender faces. and models to wear
above a pompadour coiffure and those
that adjust themselves gracefully above
a low w-coiled and much-waved Merode
style of hair dressing, compact Dutch
braid, or q classic Clytie arrangement,
etc. The shepherdess shapes reappear,
completed by very rich and pretty fall
decorations The French toque is al
most an exact replica of the shape pop
uIar two years ago The English walk
ing hat viii increase in favor as its
shape is very becoming TO the majority
Of women. The lines of new models are
graceful and artistic, and the hats ap-
pear in both smooth and fancy braids.
The curling brim will this season be
velvet brown or entirely faced with
velvet, whichever is most becoming and
best suited to the wearer. Long plumes
and short fluffy ostrich tips will both
be used upon one hat, the longer ones
gracefully disposed so that some of
them rest on the hair Wide rich
hued satin ribbon viii be prodigally
used on hats of every shape, and black
tulle or black plated lace will be in
termixed on black Milan and other
straws, with some remarkably effective
autumn flowers and foliage, including
nasturtium blossoms, in shaded velvet,
in deep orange. pale yellow, bronze
brown, and many mixed shades of
glowing crimson. There will also be
seen wall flowers, phlox blooms, sumac
buds, gorgeous dahlia blossoms, To-
bella and trumpet blooms in vivid scar
let, silver gray dusty miller leaves
in velvet, golden rod sprays and huge
single orchid, cabbage rose and gladiola
blossoms.
Among the elegances of the dress cos
tunes for the autumn and winter are
Louis XIV. waistcoats and revers Of
white or cream satin, covered with Per-
sian embroideries and bordered with a
narrow line Of seal, otter, ,sermine. che
nile ruching or plated lace. Any wo-
man who knows how to embroider can
make herself these elegant and effective
decorations at very little cost, indeed
compared with the excessive price
asked for them when added to an i'm
ported cloth. satin, faille, drap de chine,
or velvet costume. All the various silks
Chenilles and braids used in these
Oriental decorations are sold at the
best fancy dry goods houses, and gold
braid should always be chosen in pre-
ference to gilt braid, for the former
although more expensive, does not
tarnish. and gilt braid does. Very
little gold braid goes a great way with
the artistic embroiderer. New black
velvet jackets have white satin vests
and revers embroidered in jet and che
mile or jet alone.
There is a constantly growing de-
mand in fabrics for tailor costumes
for the imperials. cheviots. diagonals
tweeds and coverts that are absolutely
Waterproof Entire suits are made Of
these most valuable materials, includ-
ing a taut little toque which renders
an umbrella practically superfuous, a
state of things most desirable in cy-
cling, shopping or driving.
The fashion of making the sleeves of
bodices, polonafses and fancy jackets
of two contrasting fabrics is increasing
The upper sleeve ends at the elbow in a
pretty, graceful, bell-shaped flare and
is made of the waist or jacket material
Below this is the tightly fitted forearm
ending very often in a "calla" cuff
whose point reaches well over the hand
This part Of the sleeve is, as a rule
formed of the material which trims the
gown. This sleeve is not confined to
any special style of gown, and appears
among utility models, as we'll as in the
realm Of demi and full dress toilets
and besides being a pretty and pic
turesque fancy of fashion, is a very
economical one. in which very small
lengths of fabric can be most taste
fully utilized.
The first autumn costumes to make
their appearance after the tailor models
in cream and white serge, to wear as
long as the weather remains warm. are
the lightweight cloths and woolens in
numerous grades and effects. The de-
signs shown so far are quite varied
The shape of the skirts is not material
" different from those of the summer
for they can be made no more cling
ing above the hips-an effect still prom
inent-and the flare on the lower third
of the skirt is only a little more pro-
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