Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-12-09

ming to fill an ordinary sized laundry bas-
lifting lining q y-s Wiz long train n 5ar
. moderate one. If you prefer. Over this
sole. tulle or chiffon Of several thick
nesses; Brussels, fish net or point desprit.
| whatever has been decided upon of the
nimy ana beautiful materials at present In
vogue The overdress also has a train and
very often is made with a circular fiounce.
| The bodice IL usually round and whatever
in at the waist line Then the basket full
| of ruffiing 10 produced and put in after the
| manner OF festoons OF roses which figure
those half wreaths Of flowers which cupids
| always carry in lieu Of Worth gowns. Up
and down IN festoons this ruffIing goes
| ABOUT the skirt, ever so many rows-at
| least I'VE or seven-until where the high
end Of the festoons reaches the skirt is
| trimmed above the knee. Then all about
the top Of the low-cut bodice it is fes-
! TONED, over the tops of the short sleeves,
until an effect of sea foam is produced.
| A Thousand Variations.
| This with variations is the new evening
dress. 1t may vary in a thousand details.
1t may have flowers or lace, or both, in
| stead of rufties. Fur may be added to 1t
! as trimming. The materials may be what
you will and the color the one which suits
you best, but usually there are the silk un-
| derdress, the filmy oyerdress and endless
yards of billowy trimming to partly cover
| it all
One must not judge from this that prin-
cess frocks are not seen by the score when
the world is in evening dress. They are
much in evidence. But if it is necessary
Tor women who only reach the poets stand
| ard of the height of a manly heart to
think twice before appearing in princess
frocks in cloth, much more seriously must
they consider the subject when they at
| tempt a princess decollete The elaborate
dinner frock in the illustration gives one
princess model which is very popular, and
That Is the draping or wrinkling at the
waist line instead of fitted darts. This
gown is combination of MORE velour
which appears the sides of the skirt:
brocaded silk, which forms the draped
waist; panel and border of skirt and end
| less rows of pink tulle puffs. which form
one side of the waist and are carried over
the sleeves. The sleeves are of tulle and
over the shoulders there is a collar of
Mechin lace.
BillOwy PetticOnts.
Besides the frocks which are trimmed with
| endless ruff1es there are those with billowy
uEderskirts falling in so many folds about
the feet that walking has to be INDUCED in
sparing,y. over this underskirt there is a
tunic cut in points scallops or simply
plain, and deliberately trimmed or simply
stitched, according to the fancy of the
wearer. This tunic may be a continuation
of the waist and the gown thus be prin-
cess, or it may be simply an overskirt and
the bodice may be quite separate. The
most beautiful lace is frequently nut in the
perilouS position Of underSkirt. and those
who care for the fiiny material and watch
it lying in folds over the floor, ready to be
torn at the first false step, revile the ex-
travasarce and bad taste of Dame Fashion
and hei SlaVlSh followers. Far more SEN
slble and more beautiful an idea is to have
the long underskirt trimmed with f1ounces
or very full ruffies of more durable or at
least less costly material than real lace
and have the overdress Of lace. A pale
green satin with lace overdress falling in
points over it came home recently from a
famous importers. About the bottom of
the underskirt were foamy ruffles of the
same net as that upon which the lace was
woven. The lace was draped over the
decollet" bodice. Over the shoulders there
were bands of black velvet and on the left
size black velvet bow.
Irish Point and Velvet.
With this gown came an opera cloak or
cape of green satin, over which fell the
same beautiful Irish point. The neck of
this cape was finished with black velvet
ribbons and soft green chiffon.
Pailettes must not be forgotten, for they
and sequins form a serious part of the
trimming of many evening gowns. In sill
yer white satin the effect is truly mar
velous On black and white frocks, which
are seen at night as well as by day, pail
lettes are almost Indispensable. And their
glitter is certainly enhanced by artificial
light They are candle light beauties
indeed.
One almost wishes that the endless trim
ming of fur in little dabs on garments of
every sort might be ignored Perhaps
then it would die out. But there is no dis
euising the fact that every woman wht,
has strip Of fur is applying it somewhere
and at times she even cuts out patterns in
furS and appliqucS them, somewhat after
the manner of the court plaster affected
by the beauty of bygone days.
In Black and White.
Speaking of black and white gowns re-
minds me of black lace made up over
white satin, where the lace divided, tunic
fashion, to show the underskirt there were
bows of black velvet ribbon to hold it in
place. and the short lace bodice which
parted to show an inner lace vest was held
IN place by black velvet ribbon tied in
bows. This gown had no sleeves simply
bands of black lace across the shoulders
and the lace, slightly scolloped, formed the
edge of the low bodice.
The satin cloths in pastel shades are so
very beautiful that much effort has been
made to make them popular for evening
wear. But so far this movement has met
with little success and women still cling |
to their more perishable, but cooler and
more clinSing laces, nets, chiffons and
crepeS. MABEL. BOYD
H 0 U S { HOLD HiNTSI