Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-08-18
CONDITIONS IN CUBA
Washingtonian Th@e on Official
Business Relates Experiences.
OBSERVATIONS M, CITY OF HAVANA
Methods of Travel sin the Interior
III 70
of Island.
DESCRIPTION OF LA TROCHA

A Washingtonian who went recently to
Cuba on official business has written a
friend here. giving some incidents of his
trip and recounting his experience after
reaching the island. His letter is in part
as follows:
"As you know, 1 had but twenty-four
hours in which to pack my trunks and get
ready to start for Ciego de Avila, Cuba.
Nobody seemed to know exactly where
Ciego was nor what sort of a place it was.
The only information l could get was that
it was in Puerto Principe province and that
four compa. es of the 18th United States
Infantry We're stationed there. During the
twenty four hours in which 1 was making
my preparations to depart I was asked a
hundred times if 1 was not afraid to go to
Cuba, especially at this time of the year,
and received all sorts of advice from those
who had been there as Well from those
who had not as to what I should eat and
what 1 should drink, when 1 should go out
and when l should stay in. how I should
dress and how should sleep For instance,
l was told to keep out of the sun as much
as possible, which virtually meant stay in
doors during the day. l was advised not to
go out after shutdown, as the night air
unhealthy; not to eat fruit, not to drink
anything acid and thousand other things,
which since my arrival here L have found
during the day and does not go out at
night for fear of being sick he will lead
pleasant life. and if he does not eat GER
tain fruit. which is cheap and plentiful,
he denies himself one of the very few
pleasures to De had here.
II was also informed that l must sleep ina
room in the second story. but, if l could
not do that, it would be necessary to raise
my bed about six feet from the floor to
avoid the deadly masma This is all bosh.
Right here in Ciego, a place of about 2,Ut0
inhabitants. there are only two two-story
houses, and nearly everybody, Americans
and CubanS, sleeps with doors and windows
open on beds and cots often not more than
a foot from the floor, and yet We have
yellow fever here and very little sickness
Arrival at Havana.
After reciting the incidents of his voyage
aboard the steamer Mascotte and noting
the arrival off Havana, the writer says:
Right ahead of US. at distance Of about
six miles. with the glorious morning sun
shining full upon it, was the city of Ha-
vana. and as looked upon the lovely pic
ture l could hardly imagine that it could
ever have been such a hotbed of filth and
disease. 1t was not long before were
at the entrance to the harbor. with old
MORO on the east and the formidable Santa
Clara battery on the west. On we sailed
through the narrow entrance to the harbor,
past all that is left of our Inflated battle
ship Maine, until we came to anchor off
on what are called i'bumboats.' little row.
boats which also carry a small sail.
Owing to the fact that could not leave
Havana for Ciego before Thursday morn
ing, keeping me there for a period of three
days, Il had an opportunity to some
thing of the city. 1t is almost unnecessary
to tell you much of it., because already
you have read of its handsome palace and
other fine buildings, its narrow streets, etc.
City's Sanitary Condition.
But there are few things which i'm
pressed me. and of these ] will write. The
streets are kept as clean. If not cleaner,
than are those Of Washington. and the i'm
provement in this respect and the rigid
sanitary inspection are the means which
Z have kept the health of the city so good
even at this unhealthy period
II was surprised at the number of coach.
eS which were continually rushing to and
fro These are the principal means of con-
veyance in the city.
I'm of them you can ride to any part
Of the city for 20 cents, and there is no eX
ira charge for second person. If three or
four ride, the fare is 40 cents. If you stop
anywhere en- route, however, an extra
20 cents is charged-and the same for every
stop made. They diminutive victorias
with large hoods, which are brought for
ward nearly to the seat of the driver, and
which protect the passengers from either
sun or rain. At night they are thrown
back, SO that the occupants of the coach
can get the full benefit of the air. The
itfSeS u5tu are little larger imam ponies,
but are hardy and sure-footed and seem to
be able to stand an awful amount of hard
work In Havana alone there are 1000 of
these coaches. owned by companies who
rent them out to the drivers at 81 30 a day,
payable in advance. AS these drivers make
anywhere from 50 to So a day for them
selves you can easily calculate what i'm
mense amount OF money is spent daily for
cab hire in Havana, a city with a popula-
ton equal to that of Washington.
was much struck with the fne-looking
va in How.
mense loads they can haul There are few
wagons and nearly all the hauling is done
IN heavy, clumsy carts. with two very large
wheels. The reason for this is that the
Spanlards had a tax levied all vehicles
at so much per wheeY' saw a mule haul
ing a load which weighed 300 pounds, be-
pulling his limit.
THE mules hitched to carts are nearly all
supplied with sleigh bells fastened to the
names at the top of the collar and the
noise from the rumbling of the carts over
the uneven cobblestones, together with the
din.
/ Idols of the People.
But you ought to see the fire department.
The men are the idols of the people, not
because they do efficient service for they
DO not, but simply because of their striking
uniforms and evident nonchalance 1 saw
them returning from fire one night, and
thought half of the population of the city
was running after them. Should of
them get wet. get some mud on his
uniform. or be fortunate enough to get a
small tear in his trousers. he is the hero of
heroes. and the mud is allowed to remain
and the tear is left unsewn-honorable scars
showing his intrepidity
1T is said that the day that General
Garcia was buried the fire department was
busily engaged in trying( to put out or at
least to Keep from spreading. dangerous fire
which threatened large amount of valu-
able property. The funeral procession
passed within two Ibaoc3ss Of the scene of
the fire, and the gallant airemen did not do
thing but leave their hose and proceed
long procession had passed they returned to
the fire and resumed their efforts to sup
press it. idnI
Resumes His Journey.
Thursday morning I took the train for
| Batabano, due south 9f Havana about
thirty-f1ve miles. and Oh the other side OF
| the island, where 1 went aboard Menendez
& Co.'S steamer Josef1ta, which plies be-
| tween Batabano ana Santiago. The Jo-
| sefita is a fine boat, not unlike the steam
| ers Of the Washington and Norfolk line.
We were soon sailing east, picking our way
| through innumarabla ljffla islands and not