The San Francisco call., 1899-03-05

These costumes, like the Eudora and
Henrietta cloths, should not be trimmed
with Grape. but with the material of the
gown. For street gowns to be put into
hard service there are a great many
serges. cheviots and plain wool materials
that make up well and look very smart.
Entire gowns of Grape are most becom-
ing and fashionable. They are made up
in house gowns, dinner gowns and street
gowns. A gown of Grape made with a
coat and skirt Is very smart Broad
bands or Grape on gown look better
than small folds. Small folds also collect
style OF the broad bands.
Dinner gowns and house gowns of
mourning silk are among the novelties
this year. The silk is dull in effect, ab-
solutely lusterless; the jet. too, with
which the waist is trimmed is also lus5;
terless. There is never any white used
on these gowns; that would quite spoil
the effect. The dull black evening gowns,
or the black satin evening gowns, with
folds of white tuile just against the neck,
and tulle or net sleeves, are among the
new things shown for mourning wear.
The out of door costumes, trimmed with
white tulle around the neck and sleeves,
are very dainty. The sheer white collars
and cuffs are more and more used on
widows costumes each season. They re-
lieve the dead black astonishingly and
at the same time seem to heighten
mourning. If such thing is possible
WIDOWS wear, too, little white ruchtng
inside their bonnets.
Apropos of mousseline or chiffon plisse
many women have an Idea that once the
plating becomes rumpled or limp the
founces or trimmings are to be discarded
as useless Not scatter ripping. them
out and taken TO the platter, where they
will be restored equal to new,
This new pampas cloth is one of the
successes of the season. 1t is soft, lus-
trous and so fit to make up into tunics
and princesse models. Applied designs in
"hite suggest an effective trimming
Among newly made cotton gowns skirts
are seen where the front gore is split it's
length and then laced together with q
contrasting cord. An Eton waist has it's
fronts laced together also below the high
revers- On certain pretty sheer afternoon
as novelty, but, instead of cord mar
row ribbons or velvets would prove more
enectiye Plain sheer lawns in buff, pink
and blue made over white would show
these. lacings off so prettily. A single lac
ing down the front of skirt is not very
pleasing. introduced on the sides, or
forming pyramids around the bottom of a.
skirt. they are very much prettier. But
these lacings on skirts should have a tack
Toee OF seitGn ,d mere ana there to keep them in
ing on projections in walking about.
We may soon look for a change Of line
in corsets. The latest Paris model, not yet
adopted on this side, is straighter down
the front than the present models giving
greater freedom to the muscles of the
stomach. This French corset is yerv
deeply set over the hips when made for
stout figures. Slender waist measure
ments are still in vogue, but there is a
marked increase in the amplitude of the
bust which will be sure to be the spring
gowns new bodice feature.
AS Paris hngeries always set the fash
ions in everything comprised under the
term underwear, the most prominent
makers of Rue de la Paix declare for
Saint Simplicity. They frown down all
past complications in chemises and night
dresses, and no longer will tolerate over
frillings or empiecements. Both materials
and laces cannot be too fine or too ex-
quisite, but they must simply be intro
duced. Among the varieties of lace VAL
enciennes is preferred, but fine guipure
may be used on nightgowns.