New-York tribune., 1899-05-07

SOME DIsILLUSIoNMENT FOR THOSE WHO LEARN
HOW PERFUMES ARE MADE
From The London Post.
AS one climbs to it from the south Grasse
does not realize ones conception of city OF
scent. One magines for such dainty trade
the clustered coseness of a village set in a val
ley. where all storms are softened, and the sun
light lies in golden mists on the scented nelds;
not this gray. scattered town fastened on the
steepness of a wind-swept hill, with thousand
feet OF rock rising cold and bare above II into
the sky Yet as one mounts along the winding
way while Grasse is still above one, the air that
is always setting from the colder hill through
the tone-built terraces OF olive brings from
their violet carpets an odor there is no mis-
taking long before the fOwer-beds appear.
The blossom harvest is but beginning and only
around the factories can the occupation or the
place be guessed, but later, when the sun is
hotter and the wind lies quiet till evening on the
hill and the harvest Of the orange flowers is
piled in great heaps Of white and gold on the
floors a heavy wearying OdOr fills the narrow
streets which stutifies the palate of those who
breathe it, and clogs the nostrlS long after the
town has been left behind.
Probably those who use scent most know least
about its making. and though there is no poetic
connection between the flower and the scent
bottle and some dsillusionment for those who
believe in the labels of the scent maker. some
NAV find il interesting to learn how II is MADE
Scent whether from flowers, woods or animals
IS obtained by crushing or distillaton; by crush
ing IL tincture be required. and IL an essence
- 5is,ilafion The first step In the former
"a
process is TO irnrnerse the howers-for mowers IL
is that are chiefly so treated-in something & Inat
will suck the scent from them ana hoiu 1t: MS
a. found to be best effected by common rat
Iaver of this is spread a glass tray, and over
It is sprinkled a layer of flowers then on TINS
another surface of fat. and another thickness Oh
flowers till the tray is filled to the levei OF tts
aSor .1itb \ +rinle or ouadruple sandwich OF fat
sD6 howers ON the floor Of the room Where the
fravs are filled stand little hills OF pufPie an, anu
saffron and silver, where tne ot.9 sta,oS when
y1in kp6 w
The fravs are full each sandwich is swept iroIh run
the glass and placed in the iron presseS. 49,
fbe fat and blossoms are crushed toSelhei uiiu ~.
heat bv concentricaily driven pistohs' anu ,ne
~. Cat oozes out of the press onto a ieuee
which runs beneath, and from Whlcn II - -. ~
lected The flowers which have Deen a nus ,';.b a
ed are then removed to boilers, we t q dav
further dressing of fat they simmer lol o u, &C.,
and night The fat so obtained, Whcn 10 ~ ~
slightly scented, is used for future 17des
the trays. Meanwhile the fat which hrst eAoues OeI
has been carried into .ir,ed nomade in
forming. when set, family tlnted poiu"u; -
which form it can be kept, If well liddeo' Will
cut loss OF perfume
NOMENCLATURE OF PERFUMES
In the making of scented soaps this pomaoe
caI ne used for direct mixture. but in scent
making the use OF the fat is at an enu as SUI SUI
as 81 has stolen the perfume OF the mower ano th
fhe NEXT step is TO find some agent 10 sleti ,ie
,,e-furne from the fat For this pure alcohoi II
used Copper cylinders through each OF WIZ smod
runs revolving axis fitted with rams are @ uIiu
with the spirit which is thus kept IN cohtlhu- lu
ous motion and the fat slowly added from
at-ove In about twenty-four hours all tne SEEM SEN
4ss passed from the keeping OF the rat INTO
ffrat of the alcohol. which is then drawn on
SrrY, the cylinder and taken to the refrlSeratoI'
IN which all the grease which the alcohol mas
abs0rbed is deposited when its temperature Is
lowered. and the spirit drawn from II forms,
when filtered the scent OF commerce. Perhal's
ona saould rather say II forms a basis or the
scent of commerce. since the maker who IN
scribes White Lilac" Wood Violet. yer
yeine." nugget des Alpes and other tempting
fitea on his bottles only asserts the resemblance
of the scent TO and not its descent from the
flower The pure tincture would be too dear
for commerce and too faint, the maker thinks
20 please his patrons; so he uses 1t only TO dis-
t,neuisb his combinations which rely ON simpler