The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1899-03-05
DOG FIGHTER" WAISTcoAT.
WORN THIS SPRING By KNICKER-
BOOKER CLUB MEN.

sers Are bad StyIe-Bucl<Ies on
High Hats Are Indication of the
Trend of the New MOde-Sweet
Street Is the Last Used in Per-
fumes.
New York, March S.-If grey is the Len
ten preference of the well-gowned women.
it Is no less popular with the carefully
habited men who have elected to wear
complete calling suits of slate or ash gray
woods. The calling dress, of course, con-
sists of long frock coat drawn in well
at the waistline, and adopted with trou-
sers. and waistcoat of a heavier tone of
gray Knickerbocker clubmen, who are
admittedly the best dressed of their sex In
this country, have utterly foresworn the
conspicuously creased trousers. Their val
cts and tailors are learning the London
method of smoothly pressing their neither
garments without displaying a stiff line
down the front of either leg.
To call, or attend church, or drive or
walk in sober suit of gray, with rather
an expansive tuft of darkly purple violets
with a buckled band, is to prove that you
know in what direction the trend of male
fashions is moving The buckle on the
hat band is an almost Insignificant detail
but it is a detail you are judged by. 1t is
not broad, only as long as the inch-wide
grosgrain ribbon that encircles the base
of the tai silk crown, and 1t is covered
with bright black enamel. Through it,
on the left side, a modest fiat bow is
drawn, and this is accepted as an indica
ton of attention to dress rather than an
ornament Or. better still, it Is a means
of Identification of ones headgear among
the top hats of the common herd.
If sober. solid, solemn grey is de rigeur
In the afternoon, the grey wool mixture
adopted in the morning hours is admirably
relieved and set off by the dog fighter
waistcoats that the fashionable men have
boldly adopted. Some of them even wear
this vivid garment with the afternoon Tong
coat, and they can be safely said to have
superseded the knitted wool vests that a a.
manufactured by skillful sweethearts and
wives The true dog fighter is colored as
variously as Josephs coat, and is made
of a soft smooth surfaced, very fine Scotch
serge. woven in amazingly big and glazing
checks or stripes of most homogeneous
choice. The more striking the combination
of colors the more admiration and atten-
ton the waistcoat arouses, and to add to
the rather kaleidoscope splendor of them
| they button double breasted with two rows
of cleaning gold disks.
Jewels Used to Excess.
All along the line of the cotillion leading,
tandem driving brotherhood, a growing
| taste for discreet ornamentatio and even
| jeWeled ornaments themselves, is conspic-
uously apparent. The very acme of distin-
gtlfzhAd taste with aUaninc foilat ie 10
wear three choice and perfect pearls as
shirt buttons. A few years ago masculine
superiority to the Wiles of gems was sup
| posed to be demonstrated by the small flat
white enameled screws that were modest
ly useful in the immaculate linen fronts;
now all such men as Elisha Dyer, the
young Vanderbilts, etc, display pearl studs
worth many thousands of dollars The rule
is ironclad to the effect that all the pearls
must match exactly in size and color, and
some pink, yellow, white and even green
pearl sets inspire the women with openly
expressed envy. Correctly dressed men
mourn sublimely with three ash pearls in
their evening shirts and emphasize their
bereavement by stiH larger pearls i'll their
cuff-links. The pearl studs are not accent
uated by the aid of any diamonds and the
gems are held in what is commonly known
as gypsy settings. A sizeable pear-shaped
pink pearl is the last word in good taste
for an afternoon necktie pin, when such
a pin is worn at all
In addition to his pearl stud the club
mans jewel casket now boasts a very ex
tensive assortment of rings. Fashionable
women go ringless until ready for their
evening toilets. Fashionable men wear
rings all day and plenty of them. The
third and fourth fingers of the left hand
In many cases are stiff with jeweled loops
up to the first joint. The hand used for
the cordial grasp is for that very reason
never decorated, save, perhaps, by a sin
gle small hoop on the rourth digit
Heretofore the beringed man gave his
attention chiefly to cats eyes, star sap
phires and such like comparatively quiet
stones; now anything cut en- cabochon is
regarded as good taste. 1t is easy to
count rubes, turquoise, emeralds, opals
and sapphires all at once on the left hand
of your neXtpeighbor at dinner. Diamonds
alone are barred, they are still left to the
tender mercies of the hotel clerk and the
bookmaker. Rather more exclusively
smart than jeweled rings is a gold hoop
with a fine green Egyptian scarib, or sa-
cred carved beetle, set swinging between
prongs These are difficult to procure in
perfect size and color especially as no
mans scarb is seriously regarded unless
it comes from rings tomb, and has a
history Young Henry Barley, for exam
pie wears a treasure trove, taken from
the head wrappings round the body of
Ramesus II, and Elbridge Gerry, Jr., pos
sesses a beautiful green beetle, said to
have once been the property of Cleopatra
New Watches and Perfumes.
In their newly encouraged taste for orna
ment the Knickerbocker clubmen have
quite independently of the London mode
set their own fashion Of wearing their
watches slung round the neck by day
Either a very strong and very fine dull
gold chain is used for this else a hand
braided, perfectly round black silk cord
strung with handsome antique guards at
intervals. Both methods are decorative
while In the evening the watch is taken
from the chain and a gold stem, three in
ches long, topped by single round mag
nifying glass, is hooked onto the chains
end and allowed to hang free. 1t serves all
the purpose of the eighteenth century
quizzing glass, and the men use it with
all the languid and grace and impudence
at the opera and in ball rooms that wom-
en- displayed a while back with their lorg-