The times., 1899-08-27
BIDDERS IN TIE DARK
Specifications for Furnishing Khaki
Cloth Indefinite.
Much Criticism in the Cotton Goods
Trade of Circulars From the War
Department Asking for Proposals
Suspicion That Favoritism Is
Being shown - Views of Dealers.

Much criticism has been evoked in the
cotton goods trade by the terms of the cir
cular issued by the local quartermaster' s
department asking for proposals for fur
nishing the Army with 500, 900 yards Of
khaki cloth. This cloth has long been In
use in the British army for clothing troops
in tropical countries, and has been recently
adopted for clothing our troops which are
serving in the Philippines, Cuba, and Porto
Rico. The circular which has caused SO
much adverse comment contains, among
other specifications. the followin:
Samples must accompany bids, must be
plainly marked with name of manufacturer
and must be referred to by number or let
ter in the bid. No sample should be less
than one ~ yard. No samples shall be
considered which will not sustain a.
strength test Of SIS pounds or upward in the
Milling and 125 pounds to the warp. To
weigh from seven TO eight ounces per yard
of twenty eight inches wide
Color to be absolutely fast and to stand
the prescribed several chemical and other
tests, which viii be made known to bidders
upon application at the offices named in
advertisement"
One of the criticisms made is that not
enough time has been allowed to meet the
requirements of the circular, one firm stat
ing that 1t Will be absolutely impossible
for bidders TO make up yard samples of
domestic goods within the six working
days allowed. The clause stating that no
unguaranteed bids will be received is also
criticised, but this clause, as well as the
ten days notice to bidders, is commonly
used by the department upon all contracts
lot OF an emergency nature.
The indefniteness of the specifications
regarding the structure OF the cloth re-
qulred has, however, called forth the most
criticism. Intending bidders claim that
they are working entirely In the dark and
that they can obtain no definite informa-
tion from department officials upon this
point. Some members of the trade argue
that TINS fact and the short notice given
are sufficient to justify them in suspecting
tnat fayoritism is being shown TO some in
tending bidder.
There being no definite standard of quail
ity, said an intending bidder, 'it will be
simple matter 10 throw out all samples
as not being satisfactory and then purchase
foreign khaki through some favored party. .
II is stated that 650, 900 yards of khaki
have already been purchased in England
$4,000 yards by the local quartermaster at
New York, and 300, 600 yards by officials in
Manila
1t is further claimed that the chemical
test for fastness of color is fully as indefi-
mite as the specifications of the structure
of the cloth A firm which has furnished
khaki TO the Government before says:
THE officials who framed this proposal
are aware that 1t is absolutely impossible
20 comply with prescribed tests In the do
mestic khaki. There would, therefore, be
only one thing left and that would be the
adoption of foreign khaki, for which the
prescribed tests are peculiarly applicable. .
This view of the merits of foreign and
domestic goods is entirely unwarranted and
is combated by other members of the trade
who have made a careful study of khaki.
They claim that domestic fabrics can be
produced that are in every way equal, If
not superior, to foreign goods and that they
will be shown next Monday.
prominent merchant who has made a
thorough study of the khaki problem said;
*The officials have called for bids In the
usual manner and although the time is
short, / shall have my samples ready and
hope 10 secure the order with domestic
fabric. Domestic khaki has not yet been
produced that is equal to tke English ia
| brie in fastness of dye. None Of the goods
SO far furnished to the department has