The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1899-10-12
LATEST IN DRESS.

Summer after summer Dame Fashion
has smiled sarcastically. but forbore'
Never. never" chanted the chorus
could we go back to the dress OF our
mothers. We are too wise, too athlet1c; {;
we are too sensible. we the moueriI
summer girls
Still Dame Fashion smiled, but this
time she shrugged her shoulders. Let
me see" one can imagine her mutter-
ing. Long skirts, she decreed a year
ago; you shall wear longer skirts than
your mothers
Never" retorted the physically
rev woman, then went straight and
ordered trains from her dressmaker.
Il told you So" said Dame Fashion.
Tight skirts" was the next word the
(physically) new woman groaned, but
swathed he~self in skin-tight wrap
pings. White skirts" Dame Fashion
added, and the obedient summer girl
gave up tennis, gave up her bicycle,
gave up golf, and has sat around ever
since in fussy, if fflmy muslins.
Golf is on the decline. More people
play it than ever. More by thousands,
but they are not the fashionable. The
exclusives are dropping it. as they
dropped the bicycle. The others will
follow. They will be glad to do so. To
tramp over the links in skirts as long
as We're the promenade skirts of two
years ago is work, not pleasure. Dame
Fashion has vanqushed athleticism-
Her authority is re-established.
Long skirts will continue all winter.
Longer than ever. Tight skirts also.
Not tighter than ever, for that were
impossible. Less tight in all probable
ity-a slight easing for variety. Greater
fullness is allowed about the feet. but
the cut is on, essentially the same lines.
Tight corsets will continue. Long cor
sets that give the fit required by the
princess dress and the long polonaiSe
Next summer, may be, when the en-
pire styles appreciation they are on
the horizon-we shall have shorter,
easier stays. Then, mayhap, the mod
ern woman will say again: L refuse to
lace. Behold! l am sensible" And
again Dame Fashion and those who
know her ways, and WOmen'S, will
laugh in their sleeves,
= Brilliant, snowy effects are to be pre-
dicted. Violets and brocades for dress
materials; vivid pronounced dyes for
colOrings. There are already on view
aggressive blood-orange and deep
orange-yellow tones. a livid purple,
novel tints of mahogany a strong,
warm Egyptian red, two or three trying
copper shades and a variety of green's
laurel, stem-green and range of
bronze tones. There are new royal,
marine and Neapolitan shades in blue
and the autumn abundance of browns.
These tones appear not only in the
etamines and crepons and fine wool
grenadines for the autumn, but in the
cloths. the brOcadeS and the corded and
veloutine silks of the later season.
Princess effects rule as for months past;
not princess dresses pure and simple,
but a pOlOnaise reaching to the heels
and completed by a shaped f1Ounce that
may be nothing but a founce or that
may be a full-fedged underskirt of
different color and material.
The reign of the guimpe is not over.
Some of the prettiest of the new dresses
are made with a bewildering variety of
guimpes, a device as fashionable as
economical.
The new tailor gowns and pseudo
tailor gowns are trimmed with fiat
braid put on with conspicuous stitch
ing. Innumerable embroidered dresses
are imported, those most in vogue hav-
ing deep floral borders in cOlors con-
trasting with the fabric: for example.
roses and foliage on a delicate, pale
sage-g green. These decorated fabrics are
expensive to buy, but they require no
trimming.
The vogue of braid is being abused.
The large. intricate and conspicuous
patterns with which many a. dress is
covered are far from the best taste, but
no signs of reaction are apparent.
A striking costume recently finished
in New York for Mrs. Stuyvesant Fish
is of deep red fleur de velour, says our
New York correspondent. The plain
princess tunic crossing over from one
shoulder forms a plat, which narrows
toward the waist and widens again
upon the skirts as it approaches the
hem. On one side of the plait are small
black velvet rosettes connected by
chains of diamonds The only bodice
decoration is a narrow fold of black
diamond studded velvet finishing the
decolletage.
A black foulard dress, also for Mrs.
Fish, is covered with large red roses in
pink and deep red tones. The polonaiss
of this dress reaches at the back quite
to the feet. and into it is woven an
insertion of black lace half d yard deep,
which blends with the fabric in a man
ner unaccountable. The bodice has
sleeves of lace. and the throat finish is
a mass of black frills worked with mag
nifcent gold embroidery and jewels
The hat to go with this toilet has
short crown and high, flaring brim,
which is completely covered with
black ostrich feathers Threaded
through the crown are soft black mus
lin scarf strings.
A notable cloth dress of laurel green
has a close-fitting nodded tunic open
on the left side of the skirt and laced
about the hem and the top of the low
bodice with narrow black ribbon Black
velvet shoulder straps appear to hold
the cloth part of the corsage to the
under bodice of ecru gWpure. The un-
der petticoat of guipure lace is singu-