The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1899-01-15
. 4eweled Starters:

- ANITA CLAUS did not forget tie
g.. ( girls who have graduated from
- ~ school life into LIES school. He
80 u filed their stockings brimful and
G-U left at least one. ofttimes half
dozen. pairs Of beautiful carriers
mot TO hold up the gtft-laden stockings,
,ly,It 10 be worn by the maidens who love
TO fasten their stockings with bejeweled,
heribboned and bedecked carriers.
- Time was when these baubies were left
q antirelv to actresses. My LADY, wore
= those made Of modest silk elastic, the
. shade matching the ribbons decorating
the rndergarments. Even this was some
times held foolish and plain black silk
garters were most popular.
But gradually the display of the costly
garter in all its scintilating seductive
ness behind the footlghts had its effect
on the worlds wife Madam bought a
pair OF severely plain gold or silver
buckles for her black silk garters.
From that moment the plain garter's
career was doomed to slow but certain
death.
SO the twentieth century garter, brazen
offspring of poor but honest parents
tlaunts triumphantly through the seasons,
. becoming giddier and gaining a stronger
foothold-or kneehold, rather-each year.
nave asked dozens of girls about their
preference IN the matter of garters. They
all confessed TO a decided fancy for elab-
crate and expensive ones. Moreover, they
all possessed one or more pairs that graf
ihed their desire. The most popular holi-
day GIT this year, from a girl friend, was
garter buckle. AL the leading jewelry
stores handled them in unusually large
quantities. The sale was enormous, and
as result many girls have different
pair for each day in the week.
Both side and round garters bear elab-
crate gold and silver buckles upon their
elastic length; Side carriers for health,
nut for wealth, round carriers. For the
round carriers give the manufacturer a
better chance to make a display of jew
els. y round garter with a buckle en-
crusted with sparkling diamonds was
made to order as gift for one of our
fashionable DANES.
The more your carriers sparkle with
precious stones the better
A faVOrite garter is a fieur-de-lis in gold.
Another represents a four-leaved clover,
and still another a horseshoe and four
leaved clover combined.
Four-leaf cIovers are put through a
preservatiye process and then used. A
teur-leaved clover, which perhaps last
summer from its hiding place made
fragrant the air in some field, to-day
e graces my lady's garter incased in glass
and framed in gold.
Miniatures framed in gold are fancied
by those wishing something less eXpen-
s!ve than the gem covered beauties. Very
much less expensive are the silver garter
buckles studded with stones. Imitation
amethysts, garnets, topazes or turquoises
are used in decorating the sterling or OK
idized buckles.
odd Glory" in enamel has found favor
in the eyes of the patriotic girl during the
last few months, and until johnnie
Comes Marching Home" this design will
garter clasp representing a flag. Rubies.
diamonds and sapphires are set in the
gold buckles in star shape, forming the
DO patriotic red, white and blue.
But the oldest conceit of all is a garter
q buckle conveniently designed to carry a
. picture. If her - art is true" the same
1ser#Ns T.-l TQTff hn fatrf
a maiden finds each new moon another
Do, face looking out from the tiny ctrclet of
- gold. So though the modern maid does
not wear her heart on her sleeve, she
does sometimes wear it on her stocking.
-. The Modlstes Woes.
I have been making a tour of the
:. dressmakers' shops and 1 have stumbled
: anon. a very amazing fact. Dressmakers
bills have always carried havoc in their
wake. But the comic weeklies have al
table, He" doing the gnashing of teeth,
She the weeping and wailing.
...~ Well. the dressmakers are having their
troubles. too. over these self-same bills.
: For they say that though their prices are
The. same as ever and their customers as
plentiful. their profits are much less. And
since they do not dare TO raise their prices
they. bewatl their fate.
is.this; A dressmaker cannot turn out as
many gowns a week as of yore. There is
so much work on each gown that IT keeps
the '"hands" twice as long on each gar
D.. nient as formerly. Any gown that verges
ION plainness is sent to a tailor. Elaborate
. calling. dinner and ball gowns fell to the
dressmakers' lot.
There are countless spangles TO be
:: sewed on, intricate designs to be worked
D" cut: whole overskirts of chenille to be
" sewed together after some pattern; in
fact however simple the tout ensemble
there have been countless more stitches
put in than were necessary in the gowns
Of yesterday.
must be close fitting, so that several fit
ungs are always necessary.
- Gray Reception Gowns.
Gray seems to be the favorite color this
year for reception gowns. The hand
soonest one / have seen was worn by
Young matron at Mrs. Mills tea. The
skirt is of a very delicate shade of pearl
:. gray. 1t is in tunic effect, but the skirt
.. IS really all in one piece, with an attached
: dounce, which is quite deep at the back,
but in front very narrow The skirt is
perfectly plain in back fastening on one
. side and where 1t fastens begins rufhe
hat goes down to the foot of the skirt
and then broadens into a wide founce.
The jacket is of gray satin, tight fitting
in the back. and open in front to show
:. So tin waistcoat covered with ruffles of
yellow lace The entire jacket is en-
@ .broldered with half-moons in steel
:spangles There are wide revers and a
high collar at the back. This is a gown
, very becoming to either blonde or bru-
pette.