Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-05-13

for a wealthy Russian womans summer
wardrobe. The silk was of blue and was
combined with white chiffon. The latter
was laid in narrow plaits to form the collar
and the long vest, at each side of which
appeared bands of embroidery edged with
double rows of chiffon ruching. Tho sleeves
were each headed with short cap made
Of the insertion and ruching. The back
of the waist showed only slight plating
near the waist line. where a ribbon belt
and long streamers trimmed with rows of
ruchiug gave a finishing touch. At each
side ruffie outlined a panel reaching al
most to the bottom of the skirt. where
ruChiug and embroidery covered the hem.
The sleeves were trimmed at the wrists
with embroidery and a novel pointed ar
rangement of the chiffon ruching. The en-
broidery for the gown was of blue silk upon
a chiffon ground and had been especially
prepared to match the design in the foulard.
Skirts Are Narrow Now.
One cannot but be impressed by the revo-
luton that has taken place in the cut of
skirts. But short year ago and their am
plitude made their handling on muddy days
a matter of real physical exertion. A thin
woman seemed lost in the voluminous folds
of her petticoats. Now the width of the
skirts IS scarcely sufficient to admit of a
good stride being taken. and sitting down
when laced up in some of the most fashion,
able toggery implies a good deal of faith in
the quality of ones dresSmaker's stitching.
tom with many frills and tiounces, much
embroidery and chiffon ruching galore
White cloth gowns will be worn a great
deal during the summer. Some of them are
embroidered In Sutpure de drap over pale
shades of silk and others are corded and
scalloped.
Linen gowns are very deliberately got up
considering their past simplicity. Some of
them are appliqUed with patterns in black
lace, finished with quilings and shirrings.
Gray linen was recently made into a pretty
afternoon gown in one Of the boulevard
shops 1t was intended for outdoor wear
and had a basque with spade-shaped front
trimmed with a single row Of buttons ar
ranged in groups of threes. The rounded
revers were faced with plated chiffon and
edged With white silk. Under the basque a
glimpse of embroidered underwaist and
4 white tie was shown. The skirt was cut
10 appear to fall at the side in three round
ed overskirt draperies, each ornamented at
the curve by several horn buttons. Around
the bottom of the skirt and falling from
beneath the oversight was a flounce Of mar
row white lace.
Striking and stylish.
One Of the most striking gowns which I
saw lately was Of gray faced cloth, with
the corsage cut to show 4 bolero in front
over n waistcOat Of white velvet. On each
side of the bOlero and around the bust I'M
der the arms were set stitched bands of the
cloth the vertical hanIs being continued
A high collar al the neck was trimmed
with points of lace above and knotted I'M
der the chin with a lace cravat. The skirt
was cut in double tunic similitude the tu-
MICS being pointed in front and bOrdered
with stitched bands Of the clio. A second
gown which commanded my admiration
was girlish looking afternoon costume
OF pale mauve canvas over a siken lining
The skirt was trimmed with bands Of lace
applique. rounded into points in front while
the bodice was entirely Of heavy lace slight
ly full at the waist In front. a bOlero was
merely outlined on the cOrsage with the
canvas The sleeves We're partly Of lace
and partly of canvas. the lower part being
Of the latter cloth. The high collar was a
lace band while the sleeves were made with
a cuff that widcued away from the hand
and was filed in underneath with lace.
For simpler Occasion.
\ simpler garment was of navy blue
serge. the short basque finished below With
stitched scallops Of blue velvet. The revers
Of the basque were cut in an upper and low
cr point. and they as well as the deep col
lar Were faced with fancy glace silk strap
ped with velvet. Gold buttons in a single
row closed the jacket. a band and great
bow Of gauZy white framing in the face.
The skirt itself was trimmed with bands of
the velvet strapped and stitched.
CATHERINE TALBOT.