The record-union., 1899-10-22

Rich-looI1ing dark ecru guipure lace
appears in applique form on opera ana
theater capes of black. green and plum
colored velvet. The lace often borders
the entire cape. as we'll as the collar
cite. or series of shoulder-cap Lin
ings of ecru satin or watered silk are
added. This lace is also used TO trlil
or cover crowns of evening toques'
with spreading bows of the velvet IN
front, and a sparkling gem-set buckle
in the center. Cherry-red, orange, of
baby-blue velvets are prominent on
these toques. and likewise on the new
turban shapes, with wallfoWers, mas
turtiums or gladiolus flowers in velvet
as added decorations. The newest OF
the late autumn picture-hats are OF
black silk velvet, with not vestlge
Of color. nothing being used but the
handsomest of sable ostrich plumes'
jet ornaments, and black velvet folds
choux or loops.
Although not always strikingly be-
coming, handsome black toilets never
lack charm or distinction if well made
A combined trimming of jet ornaments
and black velvet ribbon will often
transform the uncomplimentary effect
of a dull black cashmere or drap dete
gown, especially if a bit of rich lace or
q touch of color be added near the face.
The season promises to be one of eX-
ceptional brilliancy of cOloring bent
ting the season. All the rich birch-leaf
and oaken bronzes, the superb fruit
and dahlia shadings, the green of the
moss and the laurel, the vivid scarlet
of the wild lobelia blooms that now
stand in autumn beauty by the brook,
in rich contrast to the tawny russets,
bronzes, and fern and sage greens
around them, will be employed.
There are few enthusiastic admirers
of the shapeless box coat, where there
are hundreds who prefer the new care
fully fitted tailor Jackets of cloth with
stitched revers, Kaiser collar, and plain
close sleeves.
Although Jacket effects take prece-
dence this season, still, many OF the
cloth costumes designed for youthful
wearers are made with round waist
open as rule, down the front, show
ing an extended vest-piece joining the
guimpe, and made of its fabric; ana
Notwithstanding the general idea that
the bolero and Eton shapes have passed
from fashionable favor, models from
French ateliers show either jacket
fronts put on over the elegant vest
like a bolero, or a regular bolero with
rounded tabled ends. This effect shows
also on some of the new princesse
dresses with jacket fronts, and a ripple
of lace showing down the center.
Among winter dress trimmings,
passementerie appliques, braid, and
very narrow fur bands will rival the
strapped and tabled effects and the
prevailing rows of machine stitching.
Revers and jacket edges will be finished
with tiny fur bands; also the battle
mented hens of skirts and overdresses.
Outstanding tabs will also be attached
to straight collars and wrist finishings.
These will sometimes be detached and
secured by a moderately wide band,
slipped under the collar of the bodice.
Besides those made of cloth matching
the gown are sets OF linen for the neck
and sleeves, to wear with tailor cos
TUNES, and some of these have fine
linen lace insertion set in about a quar-
ter of an inch from the edge of the
tab For more dressy wear a tiny lace
frin is added, but the palmer sets, with
the insertion alone are considered the
smartest.
The fad of adorning the neck with all
sorts of ruches, collarettes, plastrons
and namelesS contrivances of lace chif-
fon, velvet, chenille and fringes has de-
veloped possibilities never dreamed of
when first the modest, dainty little
draped neck band made its appearance.
Nothing in dress, unless it be the hat,
can admit of greater variety in shape
or style, or is more useful than this
picturesque and becoming trifle, which
allows every available material to be
pressed into use.
Black and white effects both in dress
and millinery are still in the hight of
favor. Many designs in silk and wool
fabrics appear in these quiet combina-
tions and some are more expensive by
the yard than silk. The newest black
and white gowns worn at day we'd
dings and receptions are those in bro
caded patterns over checked taffeta OF
very rich quality, also in matelasse