The record-union., 1899-09-10

nounced. But the general appearance
is about the same. There are still many
trimmed models, but the plain ones,
after the over decorated, fussy styles of
the summer, look more elegant and at
tractive. Rows of soutache, bias folds,
and braiding on tailor costumes, and
small frills on demi-dress gowns, .4are
SO far the principal decorations, and
there is still great latitude in fancy
braiding. Some skirts show two rows
of braid around the bottom, and an
elaborate designs across the side
breadths. Others have rows of braid
put on in peplum style just below the
hips, or there are five graduated rows
on the bottom of the skirt. There is,
however, a disadvantage in all these
styles for women neither tall nor
slender, and for these cases there are
new trimmings that decorate the skirt
seams, or are put on in several ways
from belt or hips to skirt hem. thus
giving longer lines. A smart French
visiting costume of wood brown vicuna
has the side seams covered with an ara
besQue pattern in green velvet cut
work, outlined with black chenille, and
the vast has an open jacket, with the
fronts almost entirely covered with this
rich trimming. There are a few fitted
round waists among full tailor cos
tunes, but the great majority of both
French and English models show a
jacket or Louis coat in some form.
all very graceful and smart; some
double breasted and fastened at the
left side with a strap and single but
ton; others open over remarkably pref
-. !
coats, elaborated with braiding or che
nile and silk cord appliques. Some
have fitted backs and loose fronts in
Empire form, with straight revers the
entire length of the jacket, these join-
ing a cape-collar that turns down over
the shoulders, and, with the revers, is
faced with velvet and bordered with a
b as stitched strap Of the fabric forming
the jacket.
There are countless pretty and SER
viceable styles in capes and coats for
the autumn and winter seasons, but
among the models for very elegant cold
weather uses will be seen the most
novel and extravagant disposal of SEAL
sable otter, chfnchilla and other cost
ly furs, combined with superb f1ounces
of guipure, point de Venise. Honiton
Flemish and other rare Iaces. The
prophets Of Paris have already heralded
this fact, and the early bird importers
are echoing their verdict by displaying
portraits of them, as illustrations of
what they will later place on sale. Men
tion will not now be made of the more
practical designs in high class wraps
but merely the very exclusive novelties
which, like charity, will cover a multi
ture of sartOrial sins. for the majority
of them are as huge and ungraceful
as they are expensive. Many of these
models are cut with long, deep shawl
like angle at the back. First comes.
for example. a very wide fur ffounce
beginning in a high standing collar
about the throat. This arches down in
a sumptuous sweep, bordering the en-
tire garment, whose foundation is
heavy creamy satin. Above this fur
fiounce and slightly tapping it arches
magnificent lace one in point Russo,
each founce curving up short towards
the front, and woven to design to end
there in a final elegant scallop. Four
alternating lace and fur founces COM
plete the wrap, satin lining each row.
A second model is a shorter, circular
one of royal satin matelasse, in Persian
colors, with twelve-inch flounce
around the entire wrap, a fur Medici
collar the flounce of fur down each
side of the front en- jabot. The effect
is less bulky here than one would sup
pose with so wide a fur founce A
note Of rich orange in satin duchess un-
der snowy lace revers on another wraD
tells most effectively on the luxurious
sum total Of a church wrap, with the
lace outlined in gold and pearl sequins.
very wide flounce, narrowing to-
wards the throat. borders this elegant
cape de luxe.
Among the stylish and normal head
coverings are pretty French toques.
which for moment before the demand
for more elaborate styles are quite a
speciality. Some of these are not mil
linery in the strict sense of the word
for they are toques matching the tailor
costume, formed Of tweed, English
cheviot serge, crayenette, and many
kinds of cloth. the fabric being ar
ranged in folds by way of trimming,
with only a chou of velvet or a hand
some buckle as a finish. Neither flow
ers, feathers. nor laces are employed on
travelling and shopping models. but
simply folds and loops of handsome
velvet or satin ribbon, with an added
buckle or a stylish pin or two thrust