The record-union., 1899-05-28

figure, are uncommonly handsome and
varied in design this year. Some OF the
models formed of these fabrics snow
a five piece skirt, with narrow ruffies OF
the stripe put on in waved lines IN sep
arate clusters of three-nine ruff1es be-
ing used on many gowns. The close
fitting, short, open basque bodice SHOWS
the front of the white silk shirt waist
and lace necktie, and is turned pack,
with revers finished with ruttieS OF the
silk For certain uses it is hard to
find more generally becoming and ap-
propriate gown than one OF black and
white silk, and a fichu to match, with
bonnet or hat and gloves en- suite.
Straight, full skirts continue to be
used in making up sheer transparent
summer textiles for slender figures. At
the importing houses are seen some
beautiful gowns made of India muslin
or fine French lawn with embroidered
borders half a yard deep, and showing
lines of insertion between the designs.
A three and half inch 1ounce finishes
the skirt at the extreme edge, and at
the top it has slight gathered fullness
on the front and sides, with more pro-
nounced shirring at the back, but on
fabrics of net, gauze, India null, hatiste
and the like, and fullness aboutthe waist
is but slightly added to by this arrange
ment of ungored material, and on many
forms the slight addition is most ad-
vantageous.
The pretty Tudor sleeve, cut off at
the top and finished above the deep up
ward point with a small gathered cap
of fabric matching the yoke or guimpe,
is model used on costumes and toilets
of every sort. 1t is a particularly SER
viceable style where an increase Of
breadth from shoulder to shoulder sde-
sirable. The extension of the color of
the yoke over to the top of the arm
produces this effect.
It is always we'll before the purchase
of summer outfit is made TO give a
word of advice concerning the selection
of gowns of pique, linen duck. drill, etc.
in preference to those of nuns yelling,
barege, grenadina and similar sheer
wool or silk and wool fabrics. There
are few cotton gowns which look Well
after clea aning-certainly not after the
washing ordeal which they undergo at
the average summer resort laundry.
They shrink beyond possible wear in
most instances, and when this is not
the case, the process of doing them up
draws the circular fiounceS and tiny
ruff1es into distorted shapes impossible
to remedy and the waist seams get out
of line. If one prefers cotton for GER
tain reasons, French ginghams are the
best choice, and muslins not too elabo-
rately frilled or lace trimmed.
White. yelling or barega may he as
elaborately trimmed as a white or
CANDY it will have as cool an effect, be
nearly as comfortable on a hot day as
cotton and during sudden change IN
the temperature the light wool gown
will give the needed protection. Of
course. the list of smart, dainty and
airy lawns, organdies, piques, etc.. are
a great temptation, and they need not
be wholly excluded from the outfit, but
for those who have to study the ex-
pense of a summer wardrobe it is bet
ter to let the majority of the dresses be
formed of light wool, white or colored
plain or fancifully patterned, with the
| addition of one or two best" gowns of
silk.
Many of the paper skirt patterns, in
sheath shape, circular in form, or with
added f1ounces on the lower portion,
have perfora tions, showing the outline
| to be followed in arranging tiny ruff1es.
ruches, insertion bands, braids or rib
| bon uponathe skirt. Some of the perfor-
ations outline a tunic effect on gored
to adjust the trimming to simulate a
| long apron overskirt, while others are
carried in straight lines or very small
waves around the lower half of the
skirt.