The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1899-02-19


prevailing in the best dressmaking houses
Of New York. Now that a 90 per cent
duty is added to those prices only women
of wealth can afford Paris-made gowns
and New York dressmakers are content
Some women stiH do their shopping in
Paris, but the number has been decreas-
ing steadily for years and very rapidly o.
late. Three of New York's most popular
dressmakers told a Sun reporter last week
that their business had doubled within
TWO years, and that the fact was 20 be
explained partly by the improvement of
home work, partly by the tariff, partly
by patriotic sentiment, and largely by ma
tional prosperity and improved financial
conditions. The last explanation accounts
for che rush of customers from all parts
Of the country, particularly from the
South and West
Western custom dropped off for several
years" said the proprietor of a swell
dressmaking establishment. but is coming
back with a whoop this year. and South
ern custom is larger than il has ever
been before We cannot begin 20 get as
sistants enough to turn out the work we
want to do, and we are turning away
custom every day. That is where we
are handicapped here in New York. In
Paris it is easy to get good workwomen.
French women seem TO be born with
but here the trials we undergo in trying
to secure competent help are enough TO
drive us mad. Out of 100 applicants who
profess TO be experts probably not two
will be fit TO stay with us. You've no
idea how much costly material is wasted
and how many gowns are utterly ruined
by the Incompetence of the assistants"
When a dressmaker does secure a COM
petent assistant she clings to her with
ia hut
marriage can wrest the prize from her;
and the sweetheart of good filter or skirt
hand dares fate when he goes counting,
for his sweethearts employer hates hira
and is tempted to murder. Some day
there will be a series of sudden and vic.
lent deaths, and investigation will show
that the victims were all accepted suffers
Of dressmakers' assistants and cooks
What a dressmaker doesn't know about
the eccentricities of womankind isn't
worth mentioning; and a long experience
in the business .eads one to adopt a toler-
ant out slightly cynical tone when dis
cussing woman. A dressmaker whose
customers are among the most desira ole
in the city unburdened her heart to a sun
reporter
Il sometimes think all the cranks in
New York must come TO me-" she said
with an air of deep depression 'but, then
ness, I realize that I'm rather fortunate
after all I've been IN a position of late
years where 1 could choose my customers.
ard If woman proved Objectionable 1
dropped her. l work for no actresses, al
though many of them are charming wo-
men. l don't cultivate the tremendous
iy swell, rich set. either I've tried them.
and I'm frank to say that they are the
most troublesome customers in the world.
They expect everything to bend 10 them.
one must please their whirns at any cosf
and toady to them to an alb,
surd degree. 1t is disagreeable
and 1t isn't worth while. for
as class they are not good pay They
seem TO think they confer sufficient favor
upon you by allowing you to work for
them. and they allow their bills to mount
to extravagant figures and 10 run on
lnterminaby. If you press the matter
they are mortally insulted and offended.
sometimes it pays a rising dressmalxer
70 secure a few such patrons, even il
they do not pay wei. because their pat
ronage advertises her and gives her a rem
utat1on; but when ones reputation is made
one needn't want customers in the awfully
smart set. The persons who make the
most profitable customers are the women
of wealth and refinement who do not pre-
tend to lead society, but are quiet ana
cultivated and tremendously respectable
the old, old families, for instance Thev
want good things and appreciate good
work; but they are not whimsical and e,,.
acting. They are reasonable and courte-
GUS and pay their bills promptly. and nv
idea of heaven is a place where only such
customers would be on my books I'm
getting my list pretty well welded out
even here on earth.
Il have more trouble with the elderly
women than with any one else. OF course
one always has trials with customers win,
VIII wear unbecoming colors and STYLES
IN spite OF ones arguments; and / know
l oress some women who are a disgrace
to me. l can't help It. They will have
things their own way and I cant dis
suade them. l don't care so much abou,
the young folks, but | do hate 10
make an old lady look like a fright. II
Is very hard 20 dress middle-aged or old
lady tastefully. They don't want TO he
out OF date and yet they ought not to
wear extreme fashions. The Paris dress
makers just don't take cd ladies into ac-
count They don't recognize any one but
young woman. They make their st,,los
ior youth and fine figure. and old stout
people may struggle along the best wav
they can. I've tried my best often ia
find something in Paris suitable for some
OF my GEAR old ladies'; but il wasn't there
Otd fTenchWomen are either antediluvfan
or juvenile in dress. There isn't anv me-
dunn. have 90 come home and take
hint here and hint there from nv
models, modify them, and make a stylish
but suitable gown for woman past Is
But, bless you The trouble have get
ting some of the dear souls to wear The
suitable things when I've evolved them,
Some OF them want the youngest sort or
clothes, and l have to plead with them 10
ger them TO wear the right thing Some
dressmakers don't care. They inst give
the poor old ladies what they want ana
make them look like comic valentines. but
l simply haven't the heart to do it, Oh
dressmaking is great business and there
are more problems 1n it than any outsider
would imagine"
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