The Topeka state journal., 1899-12-15

you can afford to have two gowns, a
light and a. dark one, you are supplied
with all that is necessary for a fash
iOnable appearance, except for full eV-
ening dress. For luncheons calling,
small dinners and receptions the satin
faced cloth gown is the perfection of
dress, providing of course, that it is
an up-tO-d date production.
Two bias or fitted bands covered with
stitching and sewn on to stimulate a
sort of double edged redingote is the
only trimming on one pretty calling
gown in a. pale shade of tan. The little
coat ending just line below the waist
is made with a box plait in the middle
of the back, and tiny tuckS Which are
merely a cord across the shoulders back
and front The box plait is caught down
closely to the belt, while the tuckS more
than an inch apart end in nothing, mid
way between the neck and the belt. The
front opens narrowly, turning back in
long. rather narrow and square shaped
revers tapering little toward the
waist and covered like the wide collar
with sable. It is filled in with vest of
embroidered black satin, with q high
standing collar, and the belt of white
satin also embroidered is laid in mar
row folds. fitting in the figure very pret-
tily.
Something quite unusual for a recep-
tiOn gown is an almost green cloth made
with a wide double box plait at the
back of the skirt stitched down on
either side four or five inches below the
waist, and trimmed with a festoOned
design of guipure lace. The front has
a tablier of velvet, in a lighter shade
than the cloth, and spotted over with
applique sprays of lace. The cloth
bodice, made in bOlerO form, opens over
a waist coat Of the velvet, and the
revers are edged with sable. Another
rather extraordinary model is in ivory
white cloth embroidered with white
chenille and yellow velvet applique.
The bodice fastens at one side with
three large gold buttons, and a band of
yellow velvet around the collar with
lace tie falling in knot and ends IS
the finish.
The use of two shades of one color,
with a wide difference in the tint, for
one gown, is noticeable feature. and
still another eccentricity is the black
cloth gown made with bright rose
red cloth underskirt showing fully six
or seven inches around the feet The
black skirt is almost long enough to
touch the floor. Yet the red skirt falls
below forming the train. This is a
good idea for lengthening last seasons
skirt to the required number of inches;
so it has some redeenling points. With
two shades of one color the darker
forms the main portion of the dress,
and the light shade is q tablier or lower
skirt. But bands of both tints with a
tiny band of white cloth at the head
and all overlapping each other. make
q stylish trimming around the over
dress Cut edges of cloth are in evi-
dence on many of the cloth gowns and
one very effective way of using this
idea is on a black cloth costume lined
with white satin in which the cloth is
stitched in scalloped rows two inches
apart all the way from the hem to the
knees. The cloth is cut just above the
stitching, leaving series Of scalloped
edges, and every movement of the skirt
shows a bit of white satin between. The
entire waist below the yoke is also
series of scalloped edges, the space be-
tween the stitching being narrower
than on the skirt, and the tops Of the
sleeves have the same decoration.