The times., 1899-07-23

knowing modfste, she won [ hesitate to tell
you that the oyerskirt is now only in its
first infancy, and that an undraped skirt
will be the exception in the fall. the ex-
ception even among the taiIors. It is no
undisguised fact that, covertly, women have
not cnly objected to. but valiantly fought
against the bulky overdress, which an
tagonism has served only to retard. not
check the top skirts development.
In Paris the advance patterns, that all
the enterprising American dressmakcrs
have seen show the wooden toilets to be
fully trimmed and draped below the waist
line. for as time goes on we are to be
punched out in the rear looped up in front
and all the eccentric slimness in the build
of present dress is to give place to some
thing vastly less trying and more elaborate
To realize in what direction the overslHirt
is for the present moving, a look at the ac-
companying sketches may be taken. Every
drapery on the petticoats begins now as
part OF the waist. well up on the shoulders.
and variety of princess modes is the re-
suit When the result is effected, in lace
over tucked muslin or chiffon. or in plain
voile or barige over dotted goods. it is
lovely and becoming to a degree.
Dressmakers who get inside information,
speak of longer trains and fuller backs to
skirts to come, with an air that carries
conviction but We should not anticipate
our fall shopping and bouts with obdurate
and cocksure modistes- Sufficient unto the
day are the interests and yagaries thereof,
and a word may be said appropriately Of
the new dancing slipper and the smart af-
ternoon tie. The slipper is a pretty little
thing modelled exactly on the shape OF
mans dancing pump, with the difference
only that the black satin or patent leather
lady's shoe. prettily entitled the count
ess." has one strap over the instep. This
comfortable sandal-like affair has come
over from England simultaneously with
the balnloral sehottische and is rapidly
ousting the high heeled big buckled Colo
NAL slipper that has given such long and
valuable service
A brown Ievant morocco tie with toe
tapering TO the daintiest square is the
choicest shoe for afternoon wear, and few
and far between this season are the women
in white shoes. Early in the summers
fray of frivolities were brought out re-
rlarkable hose with feet of spun silk or
fine Isle and legs of solid cream lace. Only
a few, and those very rich women. could
afford such splendors. but the pure lace
hose woke to life general taste for very
open worked hose and the girl of the sea-
son, though she wear print dress and
sunbonnet when she lifts the edge of her
skirt is sure TO display pair of ankles
clothed in a gauZe of beautifully pierced
Isle. and in the evening if she can posi-
bly, afford it, equally fairy-like silk weav-
ing. A perfectly plain black stocking is
rarely or never seen now. for if the open
work type is not adopted wholesale, then
spots are resorted TO, stripes showing only
very occasionally.
Both smart and novel are the pigskin-
brown. powder blue and black hose, freck-
led with white polka-dots dashed on pal
NELL. Some are large, some are mere
specks. and there is absolutely no order
observed in their placing for half dozen
may group closely together, three more
Will string out in line. when another COO
ny will spring up. and though this ar
rangement does make ankles appear rather
clumsy. it is coquettish in appearance
We are in process of varying our shirt
waist career with an endless procession OF
necktie ideas, some OF which are pretty
enough to be CARRIED over into the autumn
and used as light touches on our sombre
woolel frocks- For instance. numbers of
women wear high straight stocks with
their white skirts and round the bare
stock wind twice a length OF cream NAL
ines net. When on the second winding
the net is brought back to the front in
stead of fastening its lace trimmed encs
in a big bow close beneath the chin, they
are brought down to point midway be-
tween throat and waist, there pinned with
a bright brooch and tied in a bow. BY so
simple z scheme, to the p,ainest silk or
muslin waist air of sweet Ornamental
ton is given hard to derive by other as
inexpensive means.
Another noble invention is that OF pass
ing d broad satin ribbon of soft texture
twice around the high collar. When
drawn TO the front. its ends are put
through a small buckle OF paste jewe S.
and this is pushed close to the throat.
while from 1t futter uneonfned two long
scarf ends Of ribbon.
Women who don't take to these devices
love to bury their ehins in the cloudy
masses OF wide winged bow of nethiny :
more costly than a long wisp OF white
silk muslin, edged with imitation Meckiin
lace which is nothing more after all than
en- incipient Bois de Boiogne scarf that
has ends futtering TO the knees.
Should the necessity spring up. as in ev-
cry woman's summer it does. for fresh,
inexpensive hat TO wear picnic or garden
partywards, one should be sure to hie her
TO hat counter and purchase the rough
est brown or deep yellow or red straw she
can find. provided it has brim TO tip
over the eyes and TO tilt up behind On
the inside OF the brim three rows Of mar
row self gathering ribbon Of green should
be run at intervals Of an inch apart. and
then the outside of brim and crown piled
with fruit
Any mililner or millinery department
keeps grapes, currants, cherries. and goose
berries in sprays and clusters, with their
foliage, on hand and IL these. with green
leaves. are commineied and laid in full
wreath about the crown, having generous
handful fastened under the brim behind
as smart a summers day headgear is Sc
cured as we hear or read about Though
the fruit is 30 eommingled. the rule with
regard TO mid-season flower hats is that
you confne one species of blossom to one
straw frame. The modish flower topper
is all OF roses and exclusively pink, or yell
low, or red or white roses, at that, else
II Is a mound of pansies, a garden of big
crimson peonies. or. most enhancing in
hat possibilities. Leghorn overgrogn with
tendrils and clusters of honeysuckle Al
these millinery models borrow not a bit Of
sple.dor from inch Of ribbon, a scraI
of lace or twinkle OF a jewel.
Among the interesting foibles OF tbe
country woman, who goes about in hel
automobile. on her wheel. or who even
from a deep cane rocker on wide casino
balcony watches other women achieve
Amazonian honors. is the trick OF carry
ing pair OF field giasses. a small power
ful pair of binoculars. either single oil
double barreled, is as distinctive a part
of the duck or tweed morning dress as
card case and jeweled chain is in town. A
snake skin strap goes around the waist. Z
small collapsable case Of the same hang.
at the side and into that the glass, mount
ed as you please or can afford, and nc
larger than the tiny opera glasses somt
persons profess 10 fnd comfort in, Its ID