The Houston daily post. [volume] (Houston, Tex.) 1886-1903, 1899-11-12
HOUSTON DAILY POST: SUNDAY MORNINGS NOVEMBER r. 1890

success of the American dressmaker.
The New York modiste Is no longer a
cheap copyist of the French, but presents
10 her customers designs of such origi-
nality and beauty that large majority OF
the Horse Show dresses, which really set
tie the winter fashions, have been pre-
pared, this year. right here in the city,
the boxes of dainty apparel which gen
erous mammas present TO debutante
daughters are being filed here. and even
the women who winter abroad--and this
season they are horde-are taking their
outfits across the ocean with them in the
shape of costly American wardrobes.
/ To the millionairess who formerly I'M
ported her dresses. the rise OF the Amerl-
can designer means possibly slight saw
ing; but to the woman who has always
bought at home, while it means more
beautiful clothing, 1t means also IN many
cases. higher expenditure. Good WORK
commands its reward, and good work this
winter is lavished on extravagantly priced
materials and trimmings.
A designer who handles the new box
plated skirts with wonderfully sure and
graceful touch and who despite her title
of Mile" is, like most successful New
York dressmakers, dstinctively American,
has made for Mrs Clarence. Mackay Il
Horse Show dress of pastel rose cloth
which introduces a number of novel
features
The skirt of this costume is corded into
Vandykes from waist to hem. each line
being headed by piping of rose velvet,
so that the entire skirt appears to b.
made of Vandyked strips marvelously
joined together. At the back the cloth
T.. 4 to-, to- Inv lnft iah
keeps it's natness for some distance down
the skirt. gradually opening in graceful
folds The little coat has big lapels OF
rose velvet edged with sable, and Is cut
quite short upon the hips. With this dress
the beautiful descendant of Lady kltty
Duer wears a picture hat OF rose velvet
whose wllful brim comes sharply down
on one side. and on the other Is pic
turesquely curved, and whose trimmings
are turban-like swathings of lace and
sable: with long, rose colored plumes.
For Miss Fiji Potter. daughter Of Mrs
James Brown Potter, the same designer
has completed a dress of deep, rich Uhlan
blue cloth, in the skirt of which tiny
slashes are cut to give peeps at darker
toned velvet beneath. At the very foot
appears a gupure lace insertion laid upon
white satin and bordered by mink tail fur.
The bodice has a vest of lace over white,
and a double set of lapels, one OF cloth and
one of satin piped with blue velvet. The
hat of Uhlan blue felt is adorned by great
waves and folds of blue tule, which are
surmounted by chic bow OF blue SILK.
Miss May Handy. who is said to be en-
gagged with Miss Fits hest wishes, to
Miss Fits father, has a Horse Show
toilette from the same source. watch is OF
the inappropriate--for the Horse Show
automobile color; but which is of great
beauty, in spite of its horseless character.
h. vi 10 al oInA &c
cut with two circular fiounces at the foot
OF the skirt. the under one covered with
cream lace, the upper one made of plain
cloth, and both edged with a tiny band of
cable. The bodice has bolero front
fastening at one side with three small
bows OF black satin, each caught with
silver buckle and finished with black
collar are OF automobile velvet, covered
with cream lace, and the lower part Of
the bodice, between the bolero and the |
belt, is of white satin striped with the
narrowest possible line of black satin The
belt itself is plain band of satin, fasten-
ing at one side with loop and two short,
frDged ends.
Mrs o. H. p. Belmont has changed her
style of dress to correspond with her new
suit of blonde hair Like many ladies' who |
have felt themselves compelled by the null
tiplcation of white threads to bleach their
once raven tresses to golden hue, Mrs. |
Belmont now affects rich. dark velvets and
furs. contrasted with the most delicate of
laces, to give the color effect which are
relied upon to renew her youth and social
leadership.
Included in her winter wardrobe is
princess gown of chestnut brown cloth en-
bellished with an elaborate embroidery OF
black velvet in applique. the velvet being
stitched with two shades of green. silk
which opens in front upon n skirt OF green
velvet is edged all about in scallops with
line OF sable. 1t is worn with a black
velvet hat. with silver buckles and plumes.
Untrimmed dresses are now limited al
most altogether to street gowns for morn
ing wear hut upon the cut and fit of these
there Is expended an amount Of thought
and skill not given ten years ago TO the
most elaborate Of evening costumes. An
up o-date dress is lovely shade of mouse
colored cloth has the long plain skirt made
with the still fashionable habit back, very
tight on the hips and absolutely moulding
the figure. The smart little Elton coat
bodice reaches only to the waist, and is
not even prolonged in front, like the sum-
mer and early autumn models, but is tight
fitting to its lower limit, and there cut
straight around. The vest and tie of
tucked white silk show lapels buttouing
with gilt and paste buttons. this same
ld5teHlHb DtIHB continued uOWn tue Sklft
to the ground.
The young woman who appeared in this
dress in the fashionable shopping district
wore also a mouse colored velvet hat Of
Directoire shape, fastening under the chin
with strings.
The trim little walking coats that fill the
streets are tight fitting and double breasted
with small, rounded basques and short
capes; or they are cut in Longer Oxford
shape affairs or they are as loose and
straight as the overcoat which women of
the hunting set don with so much pride
after a run with the hounds
Miss Elsie French wears a coat of black
velvet. strapped all over with a pretty de-
sign In black lace. Glove fitting at the
back, 1t has loose fronts, which fasten
over at one side by q long gold chain and
buckle. The fronts as well as the reyers
and collars are faced with errnine and can
be worn open over a loose vest of black
panne, with yoke and tie of yellow lace.
The prophet says
That sleeves are not SO tight nv anv
means as they are going to be-
That the box plat means skirts fuller
and gradually more full.
That by spring draperies will be IN
sight. De :"
That the vogue of the bolero will CON
tinue. ~ w"
That for evening dress the most fashion