The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-01-22
COLD STORAGE OF GAME.
MEDICAL IND G4STRONoMICAL Oh
JECTIONS 10 H.

The Flavor of Game So Treated Ruined-It
Is Also Unwholesomc, says DIR. Morris
Little Cold Storage Game Served in
Good Restaurants in This City-Present
Provisions of the Law ON the subject.
Sportsmen have long been opposed to the
selling in restaurants OF frozen or cold stor-
age game. becauselt results In n much greater
slaughter Of birds than would be the a;.-- 70
only enough were shot to supply the market
during the Omen season, and also because ID
gives the restaurant keUuors an opportunity
to evade the law against serving birds shot
during the closed season. Tho editor OF
Recreation recently wrote to DR.. Robert T..
Morris Of this city on the subject Of the harm-
fulness Of cold storage game. DIR Morris.
who is a man of position in his profession and
something OF a sportsman as we'll, replied 90
follows;
New YORK. Dec. 10. 1893.
DEAR Mn. SHIELDS: Answering your query
about the unwholesomcness Of cold storage
game, / would say that when %alhuminous SUBJ
stances. like meat. milk, eggs, or cheese, are
subjected To a temperature sufficiently low to
prevent the free development OF the common
bacteria ot putrefaction. they seem TO be still
open to attack by certain sarrophyte bacteria,
the tONines of which are harmful. These tox-
ines in. milk, ice cream and cheese often prove
violently poisonous and many fatal cases are
reported.
In meats. especially in cold storage game.
the toxines do not often accumulate In sum-
toms. but thcv are ant TO cause pretty severe
gas astr nednIs Una nb 1rr!t o a nna cd l presume RESUME
game have failed to suffer at least from diar-
rhTa from it effects. One might eat n good
deal OF cold storage game before. coming
npun any important quantity OF t%oXines. but
there is always soanuch speculation about II
make the waiter interview the chef to make
sure that no cold, storage game will be sent to
at any decent restaurant because it loses fla
ror and Juice to, such an extent that a good
where any such stun is served to patrons. A
certain restaurant near here IL in d~isfavor
MN sSyer3! patrons whG2m ! know because
tried to deceive uatrons with cold storage
game. Perhnps he rendered a bill for fresh
do not know about that. but | do know there
was an exodus Of good game patrons. Res
customers, but the customers know and they
tel other people. Every llrst-class %restaur.
storage game is offered to TEMPT the palates
and to test the inwards Of the guests. Yours
truly. ROBT. Y. NORRIS. A. NJ. NJ. ID.
Several restaurant men were questioned by
a Sun reporter on tn subject and all Of them
after reading DIR. Morris's letter agreed with
him that the frozen game was distinctly In
ferior to the fresh article: that 1t lacked juici-
ness and was so fiat in taste that any one with
n normal palate and the slightest knowledge
of game could tell the difference at the first
mouthful. As to the toxic qualities none. OF
them knew Of any case of poisoning traceable
to this cause. and they were inclined to doubt
whether game that was properly frozen would
be dangerous. Practically no cold storage
was served in good restaurants. any
way. they said. and under the new law It would
be very difficult to serve il without great risk.
The law in this state says that after fifteen
days from the end Of the closed season any
one having in his possession any game in any
form is liable to a heavy fine. The fifteen DAYS
is the time OF grace in, which tn" dealers are
supposed 10 get rid of the superiiuous stock
accumulated during the last of the season.
Thereafter any game sold must he disposed OF
secretly. FreIuenters of the tables d'h6te are
with the practice OF the walters who
whisper in the diners ear that there Is some
Of fare hecause-nnd the rest is gesture. The
very fine, dlsh is very 'ikeiy ~ 10 below the
standard Of the rest of the dinner.
Many restaurants are announcing this year
by pIacards or on their menu ards the close
Of the season for the various kinds Of game as
the seHSOii progresses. At one downtown. -
restaurant whore large quantities Of game are
seryGd there i 4 legend on the bin OF fare
we can't sell fresh game Of this kind under
the law the proprietor said. =" and we:don't
serve cold storage game, Years ago we DID
a time. but our customers objected TO it
Very few resta9rants now except ~ the Itaaibiie
dh1te places. i is. very. easy to distinguish
a fa ,t se2 6eing won So : ont sgc as '" br' Mor stGf saws VS.
that is a question as to which he as a physi-
clan should know more than ! hnt ] hive
game that had been properly frozen. II there
have been cases OF poisoning | should think
that they might he traccable to the fact that
dealers in game take birds that they
have failed to dispose OF in time and freeze
them after they are pretty high. This is, OF
course. a dishonest and dangerous practice -
and no square dealer will do it. but | have
storage venison keeps its flavor pretty. well.
no other kind of frozen game Is worth eat
lng so long as there is anything else to eat"
In past years evasions of the game law as APP
Piled to restaurants have been very common.
A popular way of shipping quails to this mar
birds in an egg crate and I'll the two top LAYERS
with eggs so that the contraband goods were
aDtiraIv hiA6aD