The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1899-07-27
WOMAN'S WORLD.

Here are a few pointers concerning IAN
millinery, taken from the Millinery
Trade Review
ToQues. whether of tulle or straw, are
now turned up in front or more decidedly
so on the left side, the latter arrangement
being almost invariably chosen when flow
ers are -nsed for trimming These are
arranged in a large. cluster covering the
whole Of the portion of the turned-up
brim. which rises rather higher h the
crown. Medium sized blossoms, half open
roses. ox-eyed daisies, peoples, cornfow-
ers. and for the early autumn asters ana
small dahlias-are most appropriate to the
purpose. For trimming hats, on the con-
trary. large blossoms are preferred A
sudden furore for the grandifora clematis
has lately been evinced. The particular
shades of mauve and lilac natural to 1t
are the favorites in thes colors, and have
helped to bring them into fashion
It is not considered e~xtravagant to dec
crate a hat with five or six clematis
blooms, each measuring four inches or
more across. Something's they are chosen
ali of one shade. but yhe most effective
arrangements are in graduated shades OF
mauve and lilac, or mauve, mac ana
white. Other goodly sized blossoms that
some milliners are affecting are the arum
and japanese lilies. The most approved
method of %arranging them is to lay them
along the edge of the brim, whereas the
blossoms of the clematis are generally
grouped at the side against the crown OF
upturned brin.
IT is by no means an unimportant fea-
tjre of the latest creations that the trim
ming often includes ribbons. There is
every probability that these are about 10
take signal revenge for the neglect in
which they have been held throughout
more than two seasons. The ribbon man
nfactursrs are chiefly responsible for this
reaction. Their new productions brought
ont for late summer and autumn. are IN
all ways admirable.
An immense variety of painted piumase
is now IN the market. ana the choice Is
large: nevertheless, milliners will often
put in the markings themselves. ana many
have become quite export IN this WORK.
Among the novelties in couteanx are some
and they are II The widest-tiie upper
half of which Is eo,ored brown o. some
other dark eo,or. Che line Of ismarkation
between the aues running d~iagonaEy
across the feather. The darker portion
is picked out with small white or brightly
tinted dots. or "eyes" are painted upon it.
Other couteaux are shaded gradually
from red or some other gay color 10 black
All sorts of birds, from the gaudy parrot
to the humble sparrow. will lind places
on the autumn hats; true, the latter are
partially dyed soma bright hue so that
he appears completely transformed with
a red breast or turquoise-blue touches un-
der his wings. Birds are generally placed
on the edges of hat brims, whether these
be turned UP or left fiat, and they lie re-
cu1nbent against the sides of toques.
Wings will also often be set in pairs or
groups of three or four over the brim OF
a hat turned up in front.
About the most elegant hat. at the pres
emf date is the small Rembrandt almost
entirely concealed beneath a wealth of
ostrich plumes. These-which are chosen
of different lengths, from the tip to the
Amazon. as occasion serves-are so ar
ranged as to cover the crown and the
hardly any of the
foundation visible. B~lack-plumed hats
are also beginning to put in an appear
ance. and bid fair to be very fashionable
this autumn. Their elegance and novelty
chiefly depend on the way in which the
feathers are set in.
Very autumnal looking also are the hats
in deep yellow straws, trimmed with late
fruits and berries. Different forms may
be trimmed in this way. the Direetoire
capeline and the wide sailor being most
suitable. The crowns are often bound
round with narrow ribbon velvet. black.
claret. maroon or green. and if the straw
is an open-work one, still narrower velvet
will be threaded in and out of its meshes.
The punches of ~fruit-grapes, ~blackber-
ries. medlars, elderberries or nuts-ar-
ranged with their own foliage, rest on the
brim. A pouf Of some contrasting color
is generally added. This IS sometimes
made in the form of a circula r~osette.
with a punch of poppy stamens in the
middle.
A new veil has been invented as a pro-
lection for the hat against the dust.
which is almost more detrimental than the
sun. and cannot be warded off in the same
way. 1t is made of double-width tulle.
That portion which serves to cover the
face is studded with spots. while the other
half. Intended to enveiop the entire hat,
but to hide it as little as possible, is plain.
"
With the modern style of dress. says
"Harper's Bazar,' the petticoat needs to
be as carefully considered as the cut of
the gown, and the petticoats of a year or
" ago are absolutely impossible with
many of the model gowns. The skirts
of the present gowns are so narrow
around the hips that they have no effect
of style whatever if worn over wide petit
coats with gathers put in wrong at the
back.
There are a great nlan fascinating bar
gains displayed now in the shops in the
ready-made silk petticoats. These are
sold for considerably less thar the
amount of silk put in them would cost by
the yard; but, ike bargains, they have
some bad points. The cheap skirts are
made IN the old fashioned lines. The
front breadth is so narrow that the skirt
wears out very quickly, and in the back
there is too much fulness. The clever
seamstress now buys these petticoats.
opens them out as far as the drawing
string will permit. folds over the extra
fulness until she has a bias seam directly
up the middle Of the back. which, of
course. cuts out quite a lot of silk from
around the hips. With this silk she puts
extra pieces at either side of the front
breadth, giving the required width across
the front. As a rule, these ~ready-made