The record-union., 1899-04-09


and plated mousseline de sole over silk
or satin foundations show deep, spread
| ing coilarettes or vandyke points Of
Chantilly, Duchesse or Renaissance
lace. Touches of this beautiful trim
ming are even seen on the airy vests
of handsome tailor costumes. Expens-
i've underwear is enriched with it, and
at any of the importing houses may
now be found white or tinted silk hos
iery, with a delicate tracery of real lace
en- applique on the instep.
It is asserted by the importers that
| the new taffeta soyeaux weaves, manu-
factured with little or no dressing, will
wear better than any class of silks put
| upon the market in many seasons.
| The display in the fancy jewelry de-
partments of various importing houses
of belt slides, buckles, brooches and
new hat ornaments is varied and cost
ly. Very odd Egyptian devices take
| prominent place. They are in dull,
lusterless old silver, set with ruby, en-
erald and onxy stones. There are also
| triangles of pale rose colored and topaz
| mock jewels, and large clusters of vio-
| let blossoms in enamel. sprinkled with
l \
| ornament is to be set upon a tulle trim
med hat, amid a front or side cluster Of
| airy loops in lieu of a genuine bunch of
natural violets.
Just at present the most attractive
gowns among new models are those Of
| light weight cloth, fine, delicate wool,
poplin, rather heavy weaves of benga-
| lin nd
and colorings. They are quite as SER
vlceable as those made with cut away
jacket fronts, postillion backs and
notch revers. Charming models of the
less severe style are cut in princesse
fashion, varied by smart little bolero
fronts, peplum ends, sashes, shaped
effects, low cut bodice portions with
fancy yokes and guimps and with
sleeves cut off to the elbow or in long
musquetaire fashion, reaching well over
the hand.
Some new jackets and coats show
very pretty applique effects in silk pas
| sementerie Of the same shade as the
cloth, or, again, formed of the cloth
itself in new cut work designs. Very
lclosely fitted Jackets in pale soft spring
shades. or in deeper dyes for more gen
eral uses, are lined with matelasse silk
some of them cut almost like a habit
bodice, others with half fitting fronts
with coat backs cut in deep postil.ion
shape and fronts very much curved and
cut away.
Plisse veilings and very handsome
silk crepons are used for deep mourn
ing by fashionable dressmakers. They
are used for gowns entire or as garni-
lures on dresses of fine silk and WOO
fabrics, closely woven imperial reps OF
Melrose cloths. The finish is dull ant
usterless and the effect is extremel,
rich and elegant in appearance.
A very old-time fashion is revived b,
adding to half-length dress sleeves O
silk, satin, brocade, etc, Marie Anton
cite undersleeves of embroidered chif
fon, net, or lisse, finished with littl
turn-back cuffs or falling ruff1es of tn
embroidery. AT a recent view O
French pattern gowns these dainty fem
mime accessories appeared, and wer
greatly admired by the fashionable ris
: ing generation of young women VIII
had never seen them save in pictures O
by-gone fashions The returned buye
of one importing house affirms that no
only will these white undersleeves b
worn with full and demi-dress toilets
but they will form novel and pictur
esque addition to everyday dresses o
French organdie, yelling, pique, dotte,
Swiss muslin, zephyr goods, etc.
Pale doe-colOred and tan covert suit
1ngS appear among the seasons ney
models in tailor costumes to be wor1
throughout the spring and until duck
Holland, pique, etc, are in order. Tw
vests very often accompany these suits
one of striped or dotted silk the othe
a more dressy affair in mousseline d
sole over taffeta or China silk Darke
costumes in brown or laurel green hav
vests of ecru or pink bengaline, covere
with silk appliques the color of the cos
tune. Some Of the vests are single
breasted. and button up over the chest
with standing collar and a four in
hand tie; or are cut lower and double
breasted, with a tucked chemisette an,
Ineckband, dainty turnover embroid
cred collar, and a silk string-tie.
The almost invisible chevrons, wove1
in new type of French camels hair
are made into handsome street costumes
trimmed with silk stitching. The 'tunic
which is one of the most pronouncet
characteristics Of spring and summe
styles, measures half the width Of tn
underskirt in front, to a very deel
rounded point at the back, following tn
curve of the dip of the underdress. l
is three-piece model, with underfold
ed plaits at the back, and the edge;
are covered to the depth of four ant
one-half inches, with straight rows 0
Notwithstanding.
Eudora is much used by French an.
American dressmakers in the prepara
costumes. This fabric much like al
ideal Henrietta cloth, is made of silk
warp wool with smooth surface tina
is the perfection of modern weaving
1t is manufactured in two shades;
raven black, to match black crepe 70
deepest mourning, and shade off tn,
jet to give it slight brightness 70
general uses. Plain black camel's hair
mohair, and black cheviots in great va
riety will be much worn this and mex
season.
Pretty dresses of grass linen NOR
than ever sheer in texture but far les
wiry to handle, and of soft Frencl
batiste or barege, will form part of tn,
summer outfits for young women. Man,
of the models sent over are made u,
separate from the lining, to be worl
Lob n ci In I,