Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-10-07
Well Fitting Cloth Gowns Are a
Necessity.
PLANS TO GUST COAT AND SKIRT
Gay Vests and Other Trimmings
Give Notes of Color.
MODEL TO COPY

| Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
| NEW YORK, October ), 1899.
| The immediate and pressing necessity
during these golden days when one is out
| and about, whether in town country, is a
well-made, wel-fitted cloth gown 1t will
| answer every purpose from daylight to
| dark, for formal entertainments have not
yet bcyun and the various occupations of
the hour require more particularly neatness
and trmness than elaborate detail.
| And neat and trim most certainly are the
models of the day. There is no doubt about
1t. Dame Fashion is doing her best to GUST
| the ever useful coat and skirt and put in
their place a tight-ftting basque or bodice.
| with fatty trimmed skirt to match. Per-
| haps this is device of the tailors and mo-
distes. There has been much complaint
among them against the separate bodice
| and shirt waist. But really it is question
whether separate waists are not quite as
| profitable to her pocket as the costume"
pictured in the imported fashion magazines,
with the anglciZed French text, which
Madame" so longs to copy. For silk waists
wear out continually and must needs be
placed, and for shirt waists good houses
charge exorbitant figure. While the
costumes for which they painted last at
least one season and sometimes triumph
antly emerge second winter with but lit
tie alteration.
Easy Fit Across the Shcsf.
To the woman who is wax in the tailor's
hands a word of caution must be given 1t
takes the figure of Juno to wear a tight
fitting cloth waist or coat made by tailor
with proper effect. Very few tailors can fit
curves; that was and is the reason they
are so much more successful with the
straight front jackets. Gore, bias and dart
they do not always handle with success.
Usually they make tight-fitting coat snug
the chest and ahOnt the
waist. Hence these hints. If you must be
fitted to snug jacket by tailor insist
an easy fit across chest and shoulders such
as a man would demand.
From aesthetic and artistic point of
view the skirt with box coat and a note of
color in silk bloused bodice or trim shirt
waist is infinitely preferred. A drapery
which half conceals. half discoses the lines
of the human form divine will always be
more attractive than one which plainly re-
veals every line through a cloth padding.
Worn with Bright Waistcoats.
But after all is said, the fact remains
that here are the tight-fitting cloth suits
that they are infinitely diversified by bright
waistcoats revers and other trimmings on
notes of color, and that they are newer
than the models of the past few winters.
One feature of the tight-titting jackets
was called to my attention by a woman
who is always more amused by fashions
vagaries than impressed with the necessity
of following them This feature is their
curtaiment either in front or back. She
declared that at two tailors Openings"
which she had religiously attended and
carefully observed, there not a single
coat which was not cut very short either
front or back ''Bobbed off in the front or
bobbed off in the back" she put it.
This generality does point out the round
ed coat tails in the back and the short
front or the rounding rather long fronts
to the basque effect and the abbreviated
Eton-like back. But there are most at
tractive little coats which are long enough
and which neither remind one of an Eton
jacket nor a beetles wings.
In Brown Venetian Cloth.
One of the new models which is most at
tractive is made of brown Venetian cloth. |
The jacket is slightly longer than those !
worn during the summer. 1t is rounded |
over the hips and in the back. and in front |
is cut into slightly pointed effect by nick |
ing the cloth up little distance on the |
bias seam or dart The sleeves are very |
small and the revers of the ed-bac ok !
collar also cut into little points to follow |
out the effect of the front. The skirt is |
double. the underskirt only showing about !
three inches The upper skirt of tunic is |
cut into the same points as the revers and I
front of the jacket. In order that this |
a gay season 1t is trimmed with narrow !
bands of ecru cloth, which outlines the |
bottom of the sleeves. jacket and both !
skirts having little braided pattern effect |
worked out in 1t. 1t also outlined the front |
bias and ended in the pattern at the head |
of the bias. A fitted and boned bronze-col- |
ored silk waist, with a tucked white silk |
guimpe. was worn under this coat. A hat !
of beige felt, with white silk scarf, bor-
dered with narrow plated black chiffon
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