The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1899-08-27
y EAR DoRoTHY-My week spent

NEAR DORoTHY-My week spenf
with you was pure delight. 1t for
titled me for the tedious undertake
ing to which many Of my daily hours
must be consigned. To do my duty by
friendly readers stop in town for the
next fortnight to winnow the wheat
from the chaff of fashion that one and
ali may be a la mode. Would not my
magnanimity be overwhelming If one
could forget the jingling coin associate
which lashes me into the fashion
writer's parade?
Fresh from the worlxrooms Of Berlin,
Vienna, London and, last but not least,
capricious Paris, stalk untenanted
gowns equally f1t for grande dame, or
the newer aristocrat, Miss America.
My enthusiasm grows a trifle less as
sertive on paper, but within the four
walls Of Felice, Ruby or Philomene's
establishments uncurb my ecstasy to
use adjectives OF the superlative degree.
Likewise worshiped extravaganza in
the dimly lit empire room where
fingered lovingly over laces and satfns,
soft woods gorgeously embroidered, fig
ured chantilly laces and comet ribbon
rosettes the while Toasted mine eyes
enough to eat with a spoon.
The new skirt preserves the habit
back and close fitting sides, but adds
beauty and grace by a much more flow
ing contour. For example, 1t will meas
ure AZ inches about the hips and five
yards around the bottom, gradually
acquiring this conspicuous wealth Of
cloth. No disposition toward decreas-
g,-~ a. of fr0f ell fC vet
visible. For carriage, street and indoor
wear, we are to be heavily harnessed
or daintily shackled, as occasion de-
mands, with sweeping breadths which
require the manipulation of a master
hand. This is for autumn.
Now for the real sartorial sensation!
In the not far distant springtime Dol
~ Warden draperies and panniers will
greet you in the thoroughfares. Take
this kindly hint and do not exhaust
your allowance until you've met frock
built on this principle.
There is to be a revival Of the pompa-
dour period, the first intimation of
which we get by way of Paris through
an exquisite frock of pompadour silk,
fringe trimmed. Blurred blossoms,
pink, green and yellow on a white back
need no outward assistance, yet an inch
wide fringe borders the deep, oblong
tabs of which the fiounce is composed
and decorates the bodice, developing
two new features-elbow sleeves over
lingerie under ones and the basque
skirt.
And what Of the new figure? It is be-
yond the obesely inclined.
-
is heard in the persistent cry for long,
fat lines. The fashionable figure has
absolutely no hips. In producing this
straight effect it is necessary to sac
rifice the small waist, adding in size
i from one to two inches. On the other
hand, a fine, lengthy line is obtained
from shoulder to belt, and another inch
and half is gained which, from the
artists standpoint, is a distinctive tri-
umph. Shades of Beardsley, but the
possibility Of this impossible era dawn
ing so early fills my soul with anything
but gladnessI If you share my feelings
on the subject, Dorothy. just come to
town for day or so and lend yourself
TO conversion by the disciples Of this
Smpressionistic craze.
The habit back petticoat is regarded
eb a hASI dlu the new
figure. They are buyable in silk or
washable materials. and, while little
more expensive, because of the care re-
quired in their construction, fully war
rant the expenditure
Trimmings are climbing upward on
skirts, usually stopping at the placket,
which the smartest dressmakers con-
ceal under a jabot of lace or group of
velvet roses.
The Partisan powers will see to Il
that the bathrooms of autumn are filled
not less with beautiful gowns than
beautiful women. A trick has been
turned which promises to revolutionize
color schemes. 1t is principally utilized
for party frocks or to subdue trimmings
which are thought to be too aggressive.
Necessarily only diaphanous materials
will submit to the treatment. The best
example Of the innovation was illus
trated by a white crepe de chine, trim
med in butter colored chantilly lace.
mounted over coral pink peau de sole.
Alone, the contrasts were too striking
Tor harmony's sake, but when pink
tulle was applied to the back of the
crepe and the lace overlaid a thickness
each Of pink and white tulle. the ex-
quisite delicacy and warmth impaired
was delightful revelation.
Jeweled straps or gold and silver
chains are more favored than flower