The times., 1899-06-04
FASHIONS LATEST
FRIVOLS AND FADS
POmpadour Coiffures Take on
Additional FluffiHess.
Black and White Toilets are Con.
spicuously Popular.
Further EvoIutions of the Shirt
Waist-The Indispensable Bon.
The Summer NegIigee.

present, and this abnormal development
of head is brought about by a system of
blowsing and putting and stufing and
pompadouring the like of which has not
been seen since the days of George III.
Unfortunately, the prevailing coiffure is
very difficult to build gracefully and state
ly without the aid OF a skillfuI maid OF a
hairdresser's art, and TOO sadly often is
the hat of the times popped upon an elabo
ration of silky locks that more nearly re-
sembles last years crows nest than a
sweet woman's head. The end and aim of
all effort in hair arrangement is to have
the hugest frowning frontlet of pompa-
dour possible, and a deliberate balloon
like effect behind. A series of combs and
system of rats are the necessary appara-
tus for the erection of such studied artif-
ciality, and few women bother any longer
TO wave and curl. The pompadour is best
when 1t rolls back quite smoothly. but the
back hair is occasionally crimped a little
and then what is left of hair ends for COLI
ing is drawn up into a small roll or close
psyche knot on the crown.
Untidy. as ninety nine out of 100 of these
pun. utduS are lle eject VI ipOst DlilON-
ing hair about the face is almost sure to
be becoming. Then both blouse and POM
padour rolls are used as pin cushions in a
small way for more or less ornamented
hair brooches. These brooches were first
used in Paris two years ago, and at that
time women drew back their wells and with
little jeweled pins fastened the ends in a
small rosette bow to the back hair. Now,
however, that jeweled- bordered combs are
waning to disappearance, We have taken
kindly and quite universally TO the hair
brooch.
During the day when shopping and call
ing, little wreath of gold set with color
ed stones, the whole affair no bigger than
25-eent piece, is considered sufficient, but
at night, really splendid ornaments glitter
and CLEAN in the fluffy globe of back hair
Perhaps the prettiest and most popular
form of hair clasp is very long. very
slender crescent of pearls; another new
design is a long archer's bow of fine fila
gree gold, strung with a gold thread on
which a few small pearls or brilliants are
gathered. An extensive arrow with barb
and feather of jewels is another novel pat
tern, and not content with adorning the
rear of their heads, the women who reign
at the top of the fashion have adopted the
unique fancy for fastening flowers or Jew
els, or both, simultaneously in their roll
ing pompadours. This is a relic of Marie
Antoinette's court, and seems fairly to de-
mand the addition of patches and powder.
White Swiss muslin, trimmed with black
lace or delicate black point d'esprit, gives
at all the first summer festivities abundant
proof of its great and growing popularity.
more frostily delicate and more sugges-
lively cool combination it is quite impos-
sible to devise, and all the gay, fashionable
matrons have claimed 1t in preference to
the colors and bright ribbons of the young
er generation. At the garden parties and
early luncheons, for driving and afternoon
calls, there are literally hundreds of these
Swiss and black net dresses in evidence.
They are hung over black white or vio-
let underdresses. worn with black grena-
dine ribbon touches and hats of grey tulle
dotted in black and ornamented with long
plundes OF dotted tulle, the bones or CEN
tres OF which are fine lines of sparkling
black spangles.
Originally. this combination was design
ed as second mourning by a Partisan mod
iste for the Princess Of Wales, who has
not yet, by outward and visible signs,
ceased TO honor the memory of her mother,
and worn with the inevitable pearl hair
brooches and neckchain il forms for our
Americans wonderfully distinguished and
suitable toilet
Always with her summer gown, even if it
be crisp white shirt waist and duck skirt,
the smart woman carries one Of the many
species of short boa. 1t seems to be as
essential TO her well-being as her neck
chain, and II is made often as not of the
grey tulle mentioned above, speckled over
with small and large and pin-head dots of
black velvet. Some very lovely and. be it
candidly said, very expensive examples Of
such tulle boas have their full raw cut
edges buttonhole finished with black silk,
else fine floss fringe borders the tulle.
Not one of the boas is so long that its
ends will reach more than a few inches
below the waist line. and the majority are
fat and full in the centre. tapering to very
pointed ends. finely accordion-pleated
boa Of white taffeta mousseline edged with
narrow. rows of black lace white spiral
lace boas, and those OF liberty gauze gath
cred up with ruffles OF silk muslin or chif-
foD, are all doing active duty in the realm
OF the well-dressed, and no one can fail
10 remark the conspicuous absence every
where Of the long-trusted feather boa.
Evidently this is not feather season.
II is a season Of continued evolution,
however, in the shirt waist and all that
pertains thereuDto. Indeed, 1t requires a
sharp eye and busy brain TO keep pace with
the protean movements of this cherished
little garments. One Of its newest devel-
opments is a tail. This is an appendage
10 most Of the pique shirts and the tall
springs at the back extending as far for
ward only at the hips and being cut in
three or four hatchet-shaped tabs. is edged
with embroidery and made rigid with
close-set stitchings.
The yoked waist not only has come to
stay. but its finely tucked bib must be so
cut as to form the top OF the sleeve, or fall
as a cap over the sleeve. Then. too. men
tion must be made Of the skirt that has
its own washable belt, braced with linen
lining, punctured with white enamel or
buttonhole worked eyelets, and applica-
bic TO any buckle. Finally we have a cuff
OF white linen on a colored shirt that folds
back in three bag-shaped or wedgelike
pieces, becoming to all hands. and lastly
captivating new necktie OF a narrow band
OF polka dotted silk ending in two brave
little tassels. This and the big bandanna
cravat in a hand, are destined to
rule by majority during the coming
months.
The weather is ripe for the easy breeze
inviting negiigee, and she who lounges in
her Own room under the shade of awnings
wears a wide japanese jacket of wash silk
II she knows where the mercury is going
Habutai silk, in white stripes on a pale
tinted background, or cool white linen
lawn, Is the usual choice for the incompar-
able little garment that is shaped exactly
like hmono. barring the long narrow
skirts. Falling wide and loose about the
body. the fronts and big sleeves are faced
with silk or muslin In some solid tint
that harmonizes with the wearer's com
pleAion. For very hot days there are es-
pecially designed luncheon Jackets TO
which any woman should take kindly, and