The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1899-12-03

material itself to start with, If it is Of
the finer quality, is by no means cheap.
The trimmings Of velvet used in waist
coats consist in border around the coat,
cuffs. revers and collar. but the painting
is not used excepting on the vest and
cuffs. It never is used on the collar or
on the band that borders the coat A
good quality of panne velvet with
Partisan design is used without being
painted. Embroidered velvets are also
fashionable as trimmings. The plain
surface Is embroidered with jewels, and
outlined with the finest hand embroidery
and silk and chenille. Often such trim
mings as these cost more than the en-
tire gown.
A smart gown is made of a black and
white checked veIvet, has vest Of white
velvet on which are painted pink roses;
the revers are Of white satin with roses,
edged with black Persian lamb Another
gown of plain black velvet has a vest
of black satin on which are embroidered.
in heavy silk, yellow roses. The vest
is lined with yellow and the revers are
black satin faced with yellow.
The fur &C ats also have touch of this
embroidery. fine Persian MORE has
pointed Tevers of black satin covered
with an intricate design in jet and steel
| The collar is faced with black satin, with
a narrow border of jet and steel en-
broidery, and there are wide pointed cuffs
that are L mass of embroidery At first
this style Of embroidery with fur seems
| odd, but it is seen now so often that it
is accepted as an attractive finish The
cloth Jacket, lined with fur, however, must
have the revers faced with fur, as the
! coat otherwise would not look warm
enough. Some fur capes show what
can be done when q fashion is carried
to extremes. A cape OF sea otter has a
band of embroidery around it of dull
green leaves embroidered directlyj on the
fur and outlined with narrow white lace
This work. of course, must be done in
applique. but the effect is that Of the
/ silk embroidery done on the fur itself
CLOTH JACKETS
A welcome addition to any wardrobe is
| one of the dainty little cloth Jackets
made Of colored cloth, blue green, red, a
| light tan or light gray in some design
! different from the coat worn with the
entire costume. These short Jackets al
ways are tight-fitting, with narrow,
straight fronts, often braided deliberately
and always trimmed deliberately, with
with lace vests, and worn with lace bows
at the throat. A light gray is braided
with a. darker gray round cord, outlined
with a narrow silver braid The revers
are Of white satin braided in silver put
on over heavy guipure lace. Another
little coat on the same idea Is in a bright
purple cloth, with a vest of black and
| white made of white satin, which are
sewed narrow stripes of black velvet rib
n or wi n q
| much darker purple velvet At the back
| the coat is cut into a point al the waist
| line and at the neck and the black and
| white satin is let in so that 1t forms a
! fitted piece. At the back of the neck it
| ferns a collar, high and fiaring, and
| bound with purple velvet. At the waist
| it is cut into a point, and shows below
| ii a band of purple velvet.
The long cloaks that look so well when
worn by tall, slim women unfortunately
are copied for short. stout women, who
also elect to have poor material put in