The San Francisco call., 1899-04-30

IN HTt4 NtTS-anQ naJllDg SUITS r OF
whether YOU swim or no is not
the question You must have a
- bathing suit whether you dip in
the surf or merely listen to the
breakers roar. 1t must be bathing suit
"as is" q bathing suit.
il may take some endurance TO swim,
hut e takes more TO select a bathing suit
There are all sorts and kinds. of every
conceivable material and Of every shade
from bilious orange TO sickly green. But
YOU must wade through them all until
v0u find one that comes up TO the revised
standard.
For. Doe il known that the new bathing
suit iu u0wise resembles those that for
meriy were guaranteed to make the heart
go pit-a-pat
The new bathing suit has no appendages
that spoil the outlines of the figure.
Sailor collars revers, lapels, epaulets-
these are all taboOed The bathing suit of
last year. with its vest and big collar, is
uo more. When the girls ran down the
beach last summer their tapping white
collars made them look like a flock Of
seaEulIs. This year they viii look like
band Of sea uymphs.
For the new bathing suit has been built
ta suit the fashionable figure. The fash
ianable figure is slender. but not lanky.
The fashionable figure has a small waist
hut the hips must likewise not be large.
for the ueaI-bag-tied-in-th middle figure
nor the L.Ur-glasS figure are CONNIE il
falt. The fashionable bathing suit is
built along the lines of the fashionable
figure.
Therefore it has the "Zaza" belt. which
gives -be "Zaza" curve at the waist line.
THE "Zaza" belt. worn by Mrs. Leslie
Garter in the play Of that name, is really
responsible for the new figure. 1t is
belt very high in the back and drawn
Very low and To point at the waist line
iU front. II is "a belt impossible with large
hips. So on with the belt and off with the
ltIs has been the cry OF lovely woman for
the past few months.
The new bathing suit not only. has the
Tara belt but many Of them have the
'Zaza' collar as Well. A high collar with
triangular points turned down over the
edge that makes the well poised head look
like "a flower rising out Of its calYx.
The sleeves Of the new bathing suits are
small. and he skirts are close-fitting over
The hips with a becoming fullness at the
knee.
Ifgbt colors combined with white are
more popular than the usual blue and
black with color combinations. The
bathing suit worn by Miss Helen Ber-
tfam IS pale blue with white stripes.
Delicate shades of this sort are going to
le OBJ high favor with feminine bathers.
Il. material used is a matter of choice,
Or. rather If use. For bathing suit in
tended for the water and one designed
for drg land are naturally made up of en-
treIN different materials. For practical
purposes something that has WOOL In It's
composition: for picturesque purposes
something with the sheen Of silken
threads % simmer I'm the sunlight.
And Ibis above all things, when pur-
chasing your bathing suit--no disfguring
Trimmings no hapfiop sailor collars nor
1iUshOd TeVers rather the worse for salt
water. The palmer the bathing suit the
prettier
Messages to Dame Fashion no longer
end IN the Interrogation point. All the
airy triles that make up. the summer
wardrobe are now settled facts. And the
more important articles have likewise
had the solemn seal of approval stamped
Shirt waists when made of cotton ma
terial do not differ very much from their
sisters Of seasons gone by: The yoke In
the back is still pointed, but not nearly
SO deep as the yoke Of last year.
The sleeves TINS year are even smaller
than those worn heretofore. and the cuffs
are rounded off a the edges.
The stiff linen collar Is not viewed with
favor. In its stead We have pique stocks
ending in Ascot ties or stocks made Of the
same material as the shirt waist. These
stocks are for sale II the stores and
using one Of them as model ingenious
fingers can readily fashion others after
f. They are far more comfortable than
the stiff linen collar, have the same trim
look and are more becoming TO the aver
age face. No stiffening whatsoever Is
used in making them simply double
not be starched when put through their
bath iu the laundry. for starch makes
them thoroughly unmanageable.
Wei. then. how will they stand up?
asks the girl 10 whom a crease in her
collar is a matter of weeping and wall
ing. The Orginators Of the design have
not overlooked the fact that the girl OF
this period walls up her throat as close
~ and as high as suffering nature will
permit So on the back Of the stock
is a square Of linen stitched on three
sides. Into the fourth side slips a piece
Of cellulod. Celluloid Is flexible bends
with the stock and at the same time pre-
vents its "fopping' 1nder the chin. 1t
is but the work of an instant 10 remove
the celluoid and slip Il back again after
the laundress has finished with the stock.
Looking away from stocks back to
shirt waists it may be noted in passing
that pink is a favorite shirt waist color.
The French have always dotted on pink.
but this year Dame Fashion has allowed
the shade more liberty than ever before.
From a tint that is nothing more than
ufnlCisb white 10 the shade of the rosy
cheek that a peach turns to the sun, or
deaper still the tint Of the heart of a
moss rosebud. If you Will recall how
fresh and sweet the summer girl OF a
wear ago looked I'm her pink cotton waist,
then YOU will unhesitatingly vote for
\ pnk even this early in the season.
Blue. not of the vivid. but OF the soft
tones. will come very close to pink In pop
ularity.
Blue and brown linen shirt waists for
II have "A InOQiSl air