New-York tribune., 1899-01-08

kitchen, and there the home dishes are still n,
duced and eaten with a relish. and the kosh.
kitchen Is maintained. 1t matters little Ia,
poor the people arc-,hey eat well and "A.
women take more pride IN the quality Of ths.
dinners than In the cleanliness OF their ehildr,,
The breakfasts Of the average Russian famp,
are extremely simple and the midday dinne,
are far from elaborate. consisting usually Of
soup and boiled meat, which Is served with vas
Gus kinds of sauces and gravies. all Of which N
copiously seasoned with garlic. But on Fr,da,
evening a fish dinner Is served, which tests "a.
ability of the housewife az cook In the upus
circles of the district It Is nothing unusual IA
see fish served in three forms at the Frida,
evening meal. but the poorer people conteu
themselves with fsh In one form. Small fixh aN|
fried, but they are not popular as compare
with the larger species. which are boiled a.
served with sauces, In which raisins alnonds
lemons, dried fruits and spices are used. AL
favorite sauce is made Of vinegar into whd
eggs have been dropped while It was boilins
and another popular fish dressing made Of vim,
gar is thick with tiny dumplings made al
cracker flour.
But the fish cook does not reach the point 4
perfection until she can prepare stuffed fish h
the real Posen style. For this dish only larr
fish are selected. After the fish has been thor
oughly cleaned the skin is carefully removed
and when the bones have all been taken out tA
meat is hashed and mixed with spices and con
diments, and put back into the skin, which II
sewed up, and then the reconstructed fish n
boiled. People who have eaten II and lived hsH
spoken highly Of the dish. Aside from prepas
ing the fish dinner, the housewife Of the Ghett
has other kitchen duties on Friday. for In II
houses where they cannot afford to hire n
lighter-a woman to attend to the cooking on u
Sabbath-the meals for that day must be ue
pared on Friday, as no God-fearing woman
would handle fire. on Saturday. This s y
easy task because the Sabbath meal should h
the best Of the week. and dishes must be 10 Rs
pared that they will not deteriorate in flavor 2
quality by being warmed over at the baker,
whence they are carried home after service
the synagogue. The schabos kuggel, gres
pudding, rich with suet and full of raisins ~
other fruit, is the feature Of the Saturday nn
day meal, although the thick noodle soup ss
roasted meat, well basted with garlic ~
onions. may be found in nearly every family.
At this time Of the year the goose plays =
important part In the East Side Jewish kitchea
The fat Is used for cooking purposes. and gees
made fat either by natural feeding or by stuf.
hng them with corn and meal are consIderet
as necessary in every household coal or hfe
wood The skin is removed from the goose, aAt
from this the grease Is derived. The cracking
-"gansegruben"-one OF the winter delcacis
Of the Jewish quarter What is left Of the Jew.
fish pig-as the goose is caled-is roasted, M
but the wings, neck and feet. and these az
made into a stew called Sanseklein, which makes
its appearance on every table Much OF ts
goose meat is pOtted for future use, and u
fatted goose livers are among the luxuries.
physician said: "All the geese used by the Eaa
Side population have liver complaint, and the
further the disease has advanced the larger thA
liver Is. the more valuable the goose becomes
Some OF the animals are stuffed to such an ex.
tent that they can barely stand, and in man!
instances they are killed just in time to prevent
suffocation."
Even the bread of the Ghetto Is unlike that
Of the outside bakeries The ordinary everyday
bread has no peculiaritIes but the loaves which
are used at the Friday evening ceremony Of
breaking bread are great twists sweetened
and sprinkled with raisins.
Viewed from all points the Kitchen Of the
Russian East Slider is different from that Of any
other inhabtant Of the metropolis, and the pe.
cuiarities are often retained even after labor
has been crowned with success and the Gheth
exchanged for uptown homes.