The times., 1899-05-21
SAILOR HATS
and SUDBONNEqS
No Fashionable Maid Can Do
Without Them.
She Must Also Possess a Donna
Gonzales"
White Cotton Point d'Esprit Is the
Acknowledged Favorite for
Summer Ball Gowns.

New York May 20.-The time is ripe for
A discussion of the sailor hat that is al
ready Gaping the majority Of beads of
both sexes. There is nothing new to tell
of the shape of il. Medium crown and
brim are emphatically preferred. and cream
white fat or pineapple braid is what the
incest are made of. Last year we suffered
from an invasion of straws of mixed col
ors; this summer, if you must have va
riety and color, take il out in your crown
band Dark green gros grain ribbon looks
cool and tidy on white straw, better far
than the ruby red and cornfiower blue vel
vet bands that claim very respectable
following. The dark blue and green and
red sailors are gay enough with their
crown bands of gold ribbon, or their braid
ed gold or silver cords that, like those on
a sombrero, tie in a bowknot at one side,
with ball or iassel ends lying out on the
brim. One can hardly agree that these,
pretty as they are, have ally recommends
tions for practical uses, for fancy the re
suit to the bullion braid on foggy day at
the seashore, where sailor hat should be
of service, If anywhere.
Something of undeniable charm has the
pink, blue, or plaid gingham band that
fastens in place by a couple of pearl but
tens or a small silver buckle. There is
downright reason in that, for thea you
can put on crisply laundered crown baud
TO match every frock. and the novelty of
the thing is pleasing Beside this new
conner is the inevitable, that is to say. a
sailor trimmed with tulle. A couple of big
ponpons on the left side Of the crown, one
little above the other, and on stems of
wire wrapped with ribbon. is the thing. 1t
is not a very stable trimming, of course,
still 1t is trimming and the outlines oi
sailor, severe and untempered. are oft
en- too hard for even pretty faces.
However. IL is not commendable, this
tricking out OF simple sailor as If it
were poke bonnet, and women are run
ming beyond the control of the wise mil
liner by ordering wide brimned sailors
with vast bunch of taffeta ribbon and
quill like lance thrust through it, else
clump of short ostrich feathers and a
brilliant button at their base. This is all
about as reasonable as hanging a lambre-
Quin around coal scuttle; it is useless,
and the humble little sailor looks awkward
enough with its undeserved finery.
OF course all the readers of this column
know enough TO pin their sailors well down
over the eyes, for that position is a fash
ionable law just now, sorely as the writer
resents even the recording of it. Even the
Donna Gonzales, that queen among Tor
reador turbans has learned the art of hold
ing on to a womans head at the perilous
angle Of forty-five degrees.
II you have not yet been introduced TO
the Donna Gonzales, IL is high time you
were familiarizing yourself with her amaz-
ing proportions, for in popularity as well
as size she truly has no rivals. She is moth
ing but genuine Torreador's hat, doubled
In circumference and in depth Of brim.
The brim turns up all round, to bring its
edge TO level with the three or four inch
tall crown, and then over this tulle and
flowers are piled in tropical but graceful
abundance and confusion. II is perfectly
permissible not only 10 pin Donna Con-
zales far down over The eyes. but to tilt her
a tri1e TO the right side of the head. and
then help her to maintain her hold by
veil sprinked with big. little, and medium
sized dots. That is the newest net of the
season, and probably the last novelty in
this line to record until autumn
Sunbonnets were given trial last sum
mer, and il is almost difficult 10 supply
the present demand for them. The garden
sunbonnets are lovely creations of flow
cred organdie, with very deep stiffened
hoods, full gathered backs. garnished with
frills and lace. shoulder flowers TO accord
and wide fringed and fiowered ribbons 10
tie on the quaint headgear. Small white
pique and brown linen ones are made for
golfers. The bonnet is tied rather loosely
round the neck and is pushed off the
when the player goes in search OF her ball.
Some of these are prettily and appro-
priately embroidered in colors, and the
women are far more ready TO use them
when driving about TO picnies, 10 the mar
ket town and when boating and yachting
than when playing the popular game.
Never has pique known as many wor-
shippers as this season. Every gown for
outdoor pleasure is made of il, and the
one flaw on its perfection is its proneness
TO fade when the white is adorned with
embroidered dots or stamped flowers.
There seems TO be a fondness for high,
rather glaring color in the yachting and
boating suits of plque, and many are the
gowns all of scarlet -pique, or of white
touched with scarlet and further empha-
sized with black braid.
very brave little suit, made for Miss
Morton lately, was all of scarlet pique, the
skirt bottom shaped in scallops like the
form Of clubs on playing cards 10 show
a dark blue underdress and the waist
skirt of scarlet with one OF the new
French yokes in blue linen. the yoke COM
ing from the back over the shoulders and
running in point clear down 10 the waist
line.
white pique country clubhouse gown,
" for Mrs. Havemeyer. was cut up in a series
Of fifteen wedge points TO the knees. over
an underhem Of scarlet pique treated with
Oh lalTnN blAGh NEatL a
vest OF scarlet and Dlack was worh under
the short white Eton eoai. or on hat days
shirt waist OF the finest scarlet cifnity
could be assumed. Perhaps not the least
interesting and glance-compeiling feature
Of these dresses are the shoes of brown or
black patent leather, with their uppers Of
white duck or suede. laced with scarlet
ribbons. There is another pretty tie for
yachting of white leather strapped with
black vanished bands and laced with col
ored or black ribbons, and all envy must
be felt for the woman who feels secure
enough Of the beauty of her extremities
to display them in such clothing.
From novelties in outdoor costumes let
ns turn TO new arrangements for indour
habits and give first tribute of admiratio
TO the sensible. inexpensive and very pret-
~ white cotton point desprit dresses.
They are good enough. when properly
made, TO appear at the grandest summer
balls. and yet cotton point d'esprit submits
TO the stern Offices of suds and water like
lamb. white and more wearable for its
baptism. The trimming for IL is narrow
white ribbon that is woven with a gather
ing string, for lace and velvet and satin
completely nullify its gauzy, simple charm.
Now in muslins there Is that same mex
plicable tendency as shown in pique, for
bright. hot, hard red softened very often
by black or white lace, yet not as often
lace as simple footing. So many attractive
thin gowns are now made from neck 10
hem Of bands of footing and muslin alter
mating. and a very good inexpensive
washable notion this is.
Pity This Princess.
The lot OF the Crown Princess of Sge-