The San Francisco call., 1899-04-09


and already worn by the ultra
smart woman, is called a laval
= here. The lavalliere consists Of
short gold chain, very fine and
delicate in workmanship, about twelve
inches in length, having at the end two
crystal pendants. These pendants may be
balls, pear-shaped, hearts, four-leaf
cloVers or any design which pleases the
fancy of the purchaser
They are made in imitation Of garnet,
emerald, amethyst, topaz, pure white
crystal or Of color to suit a certain
gown, or one 10 go with many gowns.
These lavallieres are worn knotted
around a four-in-hand tie, fastened in a
lace cravat or across the front of the
corsage on the left or right side. The
most popular use for them is to fasten the
open fronts Of the fancy bodices SO fash
tonable to-day.
For the latter purpose IS shown cute
little gold hook and eye, studded with
tiny brilliants. This hook and eye is
sewed to the sides of the open front; the
chain is loOped through the eye and when
the hook is fastened the chain ends and
the two pretty cOlored crystal pendants
dangle gracefully among the full lace
1abots OF the vest.
This lavaIliere is the very latest thing
from Paris. And the all-wise providence
as we'll as her more frivolous sister has
decreed that these lavallieres shall be
just as smart when knotted around a
four-in-hand tie as when dangling among
the lace OF the fancy fronts
There is an old English proverb to the
effect that there never was a wedding at
which others were not made and that the
bride walks with the little god shooting
backward into the say crowd of wedding
guests Since Easter is the season for
brides. of course it reaps an aftermath
of engagements. And there is new idea
in regard to the engagement ring. The
diamond has always been regarded as the
ring par excellence, but the new and
pretty custom is to give the girl the stone
which is regarded as her birth stone
The January stone is garnet, typical Of
constancy, and as garnets are very fash
louaule gems, many dainty rings are made
containing this stone. The February girl
is satisfied with the blessing OF a con-
tented mind, and to her is given the
amethyst. The blOodstone, evidence Of
courage, is the March girls ring stone.
lhe April girl is the most fortunate of
an, as TO her can only be given the dia-
mond, the stone for innocence" Success
~ love is the portion of the girl born in
May, to whom emeralds are given, and
with diamonds they make a beautiful set
ting. June brings the pearl, emblem of
purity, while nobility of mind and the
ruby are for the July maiden
II the girl is born in August she may
never hope for conjugaI felicity unless she
possesses q mOOnSUOne, so 1t behOoYes
her lover to see that she has one. Sep
TENDER requires the sapphire TO avert evil
and the October girl hopes with the opal
The topaz brings fidelity in friendship
10 those born in November, while pros
porous life is secured TO those born in
December if the turquoise is worn Those
who do as they please in the matter set
the birth stone with diamonds, and the
settings are oblique
Another old fashion in jewelry that has
become new fashion is the brooch, the
breast pin OF our grandmothers' da-s.
MarvelOus stories are told of the brooches
In the collection of the Fair Vanderbilts.
one is a stomaCheT, so to speak for il
covers the whole front of the dress waist
and is marvel of rare jewels.
The more Old-fashioned the brooch the
more ii is to be desired, so the canoes
and carnelians, which have not seen the
light Of day for many years, are now be-
ing brought out and rubbed up. The
ncnus, which will be so popular as an
nifty for the display Of the brooch. A pecu-
liar sort of brooch is made of silver
pieces, which are Joined representing the
articulated body OF a serpent. The eyes
are emeralds, and as the body wiggles
as one walks there is sort of uncanni-
ness about it
Fashion autocrats predict a belt and
buckle year, and not one, but every jew
eler IS showing COllectlon or belt and
neck buckles from which every woman
can take her choice The new finish in
oXidized silver is very popular.
Alne Of the new leather buckles comes in
the floral pattern-a flower for every
mouth-lily for Easter, rose for June, etc
Some are oXidiZed silver, some are in fire
a very faddiSh buckle is a style called
the ceramic an imitation Of a lost art.
These buckles are as large as a silver dol
lar and are Of a dull, tarnished green,
copied from some specimens found in the
ruins of Pompeii. They are set in a rope
rim Of dull Roman gold, and look as
though they hau just been dug out Of the
ruins Of the ancient city. AS they are
comparatively expensive they are bound
The belts are Of wide liberty satin and
are worn rather tight. so that when
clasped IN front with the buckle they give
q full Wrinkled effect to the waist line.
OF course, this is all very well for slender
figures, but rather trying to the stout
woman.
The neck buckles necessitate a soft.
wide liberty satin ribbon. long enough to
70 around the neck once and then to be
brought forward to the front again and
fastened to the left side with the buckle.
All ribbons around the neck are devoid OF
bows and ends, and are either tied in
four-in-hand effect or fastened with the
buckle.
The old-fashioned bangle bracelet is TO
the fore again or, rather, its idea, but In
q new form. We have been familiar all
winter with the large, heavy, ring brace