The times., 1899-04-16
THE TIP-THTED
SUMMER HAT
Its Peak Invariably Shows a
Sparkling Buckle.
Crepon Is the Delight of Every
Woman's Heart.
Dog Collars of Jet Are Attracting
Fashionable Attention-FrinSe
Greatly ia Vogue.

New York. April 15.-Taffeta foulard and
silk warp crepon are well in advance OF
all other popular light summer materials.
Women never have lost jot OF their af-
fection for the seryiceable crepon, and the
taifeta finish of the foulard now gives it
just the crispness required to bring per-
fection of quality. Besides silk warp ere
pons there are at least fifteen materials,
hitherto woven purely of cotton and wool,
that this season have reappeared with silk
warps, and as the number of these goods
increases the conclusion is easily reached
that every woman is bound ultimately to
walk in silk attire.
Thousands of yards of wash silk have al
ready been sold for shirt waists. 1t is
possible TO buy a charming lace-trimmed
undergarment for less than ST., crisp.
servieeabie taffeta petticoat, adequately
flouneed for less than 81, and the prettiest
sort of spring parasol covered with the
same luxurious material for dollar and
a half. Now all of these facts prove WHAT
That it is no longer distinction or a lux
ury TO dress in silk; that this fabric has
become common necessity to all women
as cotton, and that lovers and spinners of
fairy tales will no longer be listened to il
they can't promise their lady-loves and
princesses some more expensive and dis
iinctiye garb than the vulgar, common
place mulberry has produced.
Having purchased a variety of more or
less silky goods for the seasons wardrobe,
every feminine intellect is just now in
process OF vigorous cudgeling over the
stern question Of types and theories of
makeup. Let US consider waists, for in
stance. There is only one in twenty-five
that has not yoke and vest effect, not one
high behind. and not in points back OF the
ears That mode is almost obsolete, but
series of points or wire stiffened tabs begin
TO slope away from behind the ears, to an
attitude in the centre of the neck that
rises as high as four inches above the col
lar level. All collars. and there are 10 ex
ceptions, hook up behind, just as all sleeves
are very long.
Buffed sleeves, those with a fullness
gathered into the seam, are not as near TO
the rule of fashion as two months ago. The
sleeve is now deliberately cut an inch and
a half longer than the arm and allowed TO
~
of special dimensions is set on. The cuff
oftenest takes the form of three rather far
ing scailops, the inside lined with rows on
rows of gathered close set lines of bebe
ribbon, and at the shoulder. what dress
makers term a dressy sleeve is usually
sliced open in a half moon and shows an
introduced decoration of bright corded silk,
or gauze chiffon
There is a marked fancy for lavishing
@ta hor1
of gowns. V shaped pieces Of velvet are
let in as back panels on smart cloth visit
ing dresses, mazes of stitching and fat
satin cording predominate up the rear
seam, and the rule is to carry clear up to
the back Of the neck the same scheme of
ornamentation that is used on the skirt.
One pretty toilet brought over recently
showed a comparatively simple facade.
while down the rear OF the waist and down
the length Of the train ran panel of mole
gray velvet to harmonic with the gray
cloth. From the tips of the rather long
train to the top of the tall collar over the
velvet. iacing Of gray cords ran, so that
the last view of the wearer was more inter-
csting than the first.
Seailops wax in influence every hour. The
tops of gloves. the edges Of wells. the bor-
ders of overskirts. brims of hats, all are
scalloped. and when you come TO think of
it there is no cheaper decoration known.
therefore let us be thankful that scallops
are in the van. The veil at the forefront
is perfectly plain black heneycomb net
OF exceeding soft fineness, cut square. and
then edged with deep or narrow scallops
Of lace. White and colored wells are simi-
iarly treated, and the milliners are trying
10 introduce the custom OF buying a spe-
cial veil to wear with every hat.
Their latest discovery is the importance
OF the becoming veil, and their very rea-
sonable argument is that no woman
should wear a veil that throws a trying
tint or extra lines into her face. Some
women, they also sagely advise, can lo5k
best in yeiis full under the chin. others
appear TO greatest advantage in very short
net Mosques. and some in drsped ones.
The whole effort of the discussion goes to
prove that il is every woman's duty 10
study her veil as she does her hat, and
seated before a mirror undergo the deli
cate process OF trying many nets until the
expert railliner discovers one that fulfilis
all the many Offices of the perfect veil
that is. of revealing what should be re-
xeaied and coneealing what should be con-
cealed-
The day has not yet come for women to
wear their hats well of their faces. Stur-
dy efforts have been made to force the
popularity of little comb-shaped toques
and certain measure of success was
gained last winter In the warfare, but
down have come the hats again this
spring. and all the tulle toques, and the
straw ones, too, have lurched forward,
as with an irresistible impulse well over
the eyes, and over the very forward peak
OF the brim the inevitable buckle is bent.
Pretty lawn tulle and pink straw hats are
making fine show with their brim edgings
of sparkling Jet, steel or white crystal
beads. This is essentially a novelty. as
are the ostrich feather pompons and huge
voses made of taffeta ribbon.
Simplest. cheapest. and almost the pret-
tiest among the spring hats are large
toques Of smooth, very pliable straw, fres-
coed over with straw braid and tufted
down with knots OF violets or hyacinths.
The toque of straw is had for small
price. and any woman can adjust her vio-
lets, md in fifteen minutes. at an outlay
OF about 81, a truly charming piece CT
headgear is the result All the small bon
nets are made entirely of lace or entirely
OF flowers. Deep cream shades of heavy
cherry lace stretched over wire frames
are adorned with wings and bows and ro-
settes OF another and more delicate lace
and lace strings are for the moment push
ing into conspicuous consideration. The
flower bonnets are mere caps OF hyaeinths,
pinks. half burst rosebuds, etc, with lace
wings. and very often pair OF white tuils
strings, bordered with black velvet bebe
ribbon. are drawn down under the chin
knotted IN generous how. then the ends
drawn down below the bust, knotte1 there,
pinned with ieweled brooch and a gay.
delicate jabot is formed.
A host OF truly pretty neck ornaments
can be found at almost any of the big
shops just now. In place OF wearing strings
os pearls, women at the theatres wear
thick ropes made of five strings OF imita-
.ion seed pearls wound twice around the