The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1899-11-11

eIpuw sleeves were finished on in the
same style. The yoke and bertha were
made of the lisse and velvet. The fish
net wells the glistening silk to an almost
ethereal beauty.
For the young married ladies and the
girls in their second and third season
there are more p~retentious gowns, some
of them fit for an empress. Imagine q
thick guipure dress made and shaped to
the figure in a sort OF loose princess style
By the patient fingers Of the lacemaker.
The waist is made low on thesneck and
shoulders, and some have 40 sleeves, 9TH
ers short ones and others long ones. That
depends on the wearer's taste. l mag
inc that the sleeves are Interchangeable
This heavy lace does not look well next
the skin, so there Is always a tiny ruch-
ing of lisse or chiffon or perhaps a mar
row band of fur.
The loose shape makes some sort of
belt necessary, so the waist is pouched
out slightly and a fancy belt provided.
1t may be several rows of pearl beads
sewed closely to a foundation or ribbon
with spangles, or it may be a piece of the
inner gown or velvet Of the same color.
Then, again, it may be a belt covered
Will beduS anu td&tu WALL 4 ucep lt1i6S
of beads.
The sleeves are often arranged to fall
entirely off the shoulders until they look
as if they had ripped, but in such a case
there is a strap of dark fur or velvet
over the top of the shoulder, just for
looks. Some Of these splendid guipure
dresses are sewed over with crystal beads
and others with pearls. Both are beauti-
full, though the crystal ones are the most
snowy.
One of the most striking of these new
gowns was of black satin, with an over
dress of black ~spangled tulle-that is, the
black spangles ran in sort Of cheyron
lines from top to bottom, narrowing In at
the waist and spreading as the skirt grew
wider near the bottom. All around the
bottom they formed deep scallops, with
three ines OF rather large spanglss at the
edge. Down the front from the bust to
the bottom of the skirt there were pink
and white roses, with green leaves, all
wrought by different colored ~spangles.
They looked well at a distance. The
whole was held In at the waist by a
black belt.
The waist was worked with two red
and two white roses, while the rest was
all black. The front formed a heart
shaped scallop. The sleeves reached the
elbow and began on the top of the shout
der, SO that the dress had something or
the ~pompadour about 1t.
Empire styles, directoire and a mixture
Of all sorts of ideas are struggling for SUI
premacy just now, but the wraps and
long sack coats and the directoire bon
nets seem to me to have a little advan-
tage. The empire shapes for dresses
may take for home. but ! fail to see how
they could be worn in the street to adj
vantage.
Miss Julia Arthur has given US some Of
the most superb and magnificent Of the
robes copied after those Of the Empress
Josephine. They are regal beyond com-
pare. And now comes "Mndame Sans
Gene" at another theater. AS these are
of the empire. It seems to me that the
sight of such dazzling ssplendor may blind
the judgment ofssome Of the ladiess az to
their own physical or financial aptitude
for. empire styles. Madame Sans Gene
wore short spencer jackets with very
long sleeves. They were ugly and were
the outcome Of a wager, butNfolks wore
them. Let us hope they will draw the
line before reaching them. The box coat
Is ~bad+enough In all conscience.