Freeland tribune. (Freeland, Pa.) 1888-1921, 1899-12-25
NOTES ON PORTO RICO
A COSBY LETTER OF INFORMATION
AND INCIDENT.
Brief Description Of Sap Juan-Get
ing Into MORO Castle-Interview-
Ing = Native-DanciRg and Music
Popular ARusemeRts.
Especial Correspondence


San Juan is worth brief description,
its commercial importance being under
estimated in the United States just AS
that of Ponce Ia overestimated. The
city will always be the metropolis of
the island owing both to its natural
and acquired advantage. 1t stands up
on an island something over two miles
long, about quarter of mile wide,
and separated from the main land at
one end by a narrow arm of the sea,
over which is the bridge of San An
tonic. The other end is q rugged blun
nearly three-quarters of mile from
the mainland connection being made
by small ferryboat. 1t is walled
town, with portcullis, gates and battle
ments, and yet it did not take long for
the Spanish commander to cry, Don't
shoot; I'll come down" when Admiral
Sampson started to lombard MORO
Castle last summer.
Although built over two hundred and
fifty years ago, the town is still in good
condition. 1t has a population Of near
ly $4,000 and contrary to the usual Gus
tom in Porto Rican cities a good many
people live on the ground floor. Run
ming water has just been introduced,
though the people mostly drink rain
water caught in about rs filthy cisterns
as can be Imagined. 1t is infested by
full supply of vermin, and dogs
enough to bay generously at the moon.
The streets are narrow, but will usual
ly admit two carriages abreast 1t has
far more and finer public buildings
than can be found on the entire bal
ance Of the island. There are two good
palaces for the officials, town hall,
theatre, barracks, custom house, mill
tary hospital, cathedral, Episcopal pal
ace and a seminary.
Gas and electric light works are es-
tablished, and the stores and shops are
better than any others on the island.
There Is no manufacturing Of any con-
sequence. The streets are regular, six
running parallel with the island, and
seven at right angles. Just at present
Fan Juan is pretty well filed with sol
diers and promoters.
Moro Castle shows the marks of
the bombarding Admiral Sampson gave
1t. although the work was considerate
and judicious, being more in the ma
ture of warning than anything else.
An intelligent Spaniard tells me that
when the bombarding began the COM
mander at the castle thought it was
merely visit from Cervera's fleet,
which was giving an unusually effusive
salute. but when shot went clear
through the top walls and landed
against private house beyond, the
Spaniards realized that something was
likely to happen. Then when another
shot made hole as big as hogshead
In the front of a church, passed through
the edlfiee, smashing the rear wall into
smithereens, everybody began to fee
and when daylight came not 4 soul
could be seen in the town.
To gain admission to the castle 1t is
necessary to secure pass from the
United States military authorities, but
l knew nothing of this at the time of
my visit With me was the captain of
an ocean stea mship. who had the usual
supply Of gold lace upon his attire We
had each purchased Spanish swords as
relies which were buckled about our
waists rs the easiest means Of convey
ance. Although the one l carried
seemed to delight in getting tangled in
my legs and in trying to throw me
down, the guard evidently took us for
military magnates, for he saluted
promptly and we returned it with dig
nifty. Once passed the first sentry we
got along easily. Merit thus often pays
tribute to ignorance.
A mine to the seashore defended by
battery enables troops to enter or
leave the fort, OF receive succor when
needed. Down below are the dungeons
where Spain kept her mlital Y prisone g..
The entrance passage to these are in
the form Of crescents, and the only
light is through diminutive barred win
dows, the sills of which are worn away
by years of use as seats for the unfor-
tunate inmates who clung to them to
secure rs much as possible the light Of
day The castle of San Cristobal. fac
ing the ocean northwest of the city is
likewise a strong fertilization. being
for the most part cut out of solid rock
1t is connected with Morro Castle by a
well-constructed wall.
So much for the city. Its people are
of better grade than can be found in
the central or southern parts of the ISL
and. Indeed, the inhabitants Of the
entire north shore are more intelligent
and enterprising than those of the
southern part simply because they
have been in closer touch with civiliza-
tion. But this Is saying very little,
Mungo Park found even In the heart Of
Africa a class of men who told the
story of their heroic forefnthers, and
the Sandwich Islanders have bards
who recite the deeds of their illustrious
sires. But the Porto Rican has no his
tory, no ideals, no ancestry, no folk
lore.
On the road from Caguas to San Juan
l stopped at the hnt of a native, who
seemed to be Of more than average in
telligence. With the aid of an interpre-
ter-for when you attempt to probe
ignorance you need good tools-I tried
to find out II there were any distin-
guished natives on the island Were
there any sages or scientists? Any in.
ventors, or orators, or statesmen? He
had never heard Of any.
Poets run wild and rank in almost
every land on EARTH" said |. "Ask him
II Porto Rico has any poets"
Our native friend blinked his eyes,
and, with far-away look, said he was
sure 1t had none. But | shall always
think that he did not quite understand
me, for In the next breath he said:
"But there Is man living near Rio
Piedras who has more than score of