The times., 1899-10-29

aud stands at the Head Of All other
trimmings for the NeRr-shirt
Waists To Reign at the Thentre.
Boas of Fox PeIts and SeaIsI1in.
NEW YORK. Oct. 2S-New millinery is
ponderouz. both in fact and in appearance.
The usual recipe for smart hat calls for
such ingredients +as velvet frame with
fur binding. a large, many winged bird,
ample folds Of panne, at least one fringed
Orient satin scarf with a pair OF glittering
buckles and ornaments. All this is whip
ped Up with froth Of chiffon and the
result is a Revolutionary toque, a Charlotte
Corday, OF a Fair Inez that Will tip the
scales at three OF. five pounds.
The mission Of women however, is to
suffer in the cause Of beauty and the sill
Yer lining to this cloud OF nodding plumes
and rolls of velvet is that hats come of
AT the theatres with a sigh Of relief from
every woman in the audience The only
genuine danger lurking in this weighty
headgear is prematurely thin locks for the
woman who wears her splendid hvs-pound
structure for too many hours continuously
Aside from the styles above referred to,
which. after all. are merely new titles for
the familiar round toque, the picture shape
and the ever popular Spanish turban,
known last spring as the Donna Gonzales,
a plain felt. gaily bedight with embroidery
done in colored silks, has just come to
town
During the summer at the country re-
sorts we used to see Leghorns and chips
gsrnished with garlands painted on the
straw and the adaptation OF the same idea
IN needIework on felt is alluringIy interest
ing A huge brown felt with a wreath Of
autumn leaves so worked on the brim that
The upper and under sides show an equally
neat finish is pretty and most appropriate,
especially II the crown is wound with a
roll Of ecru lace and has manufactured
wings. painted 10 resemble big butterfly
pinions standing up at one side
Lace has scored another triumph and
stands pre-eminent at the head of all the
trimmings Tor the year. Whole robes of
Renaissance guipure, Cluny, and Russian
weave are quite as modish as they We're
six months ago, and some Of these heavy
laces are interviewer with a heavy gold or
silver cord that either runs over the lace
:
part and parcel Of the lace pattern itself
Whichever way it is used, no words can
say how richly brilliant its effect is, and
the theory and practice now obtaining is
10 drop a lace robe, be It black or white
over an underslip Of raspberry red or lime
green taifeta mousseliIe OF crepe de chine.
Last winter women found that shirt
waists OF satin. velvet brocaded silk. or
shot taffeta fastened with jeweled buttons
and fancifully collared. looked amazingly
well as theatre waists. and not quite salts
fed with the admirable discovery. the shirt
waist makers are producing the most gOr-
ge0us IheaTregoing garments Of gold COL
Ored. green. and automobile red satin, the
body part entirely overlaid with the new
est laces and the neck adorned with a
fashionable Stein Kirk cravat OF fringed
satin or lace This last is the shirt waist
up 70 date and any woman who wants TO
make one for herself must bear in mind
that the lace has its pattern sewed on TO
The satin body. and that the fuIIness of
The sleeve is gathered into q close wrist
and cuff falling over the hand. A Steia
Rirk Is sixteenth century necktie. and IL
passes once about high stock collar that
has branching ear laps. crosses al the back
OF the neck, comes forward TO the bust,
and Is drawn 10 a loose four-in hand knot
upon the chest, there fastened with a jew
eled brooch, and its ends reach in uneven
lengths near 10 the waist line.
The belt that goes with this is narrow
width OF fine mixed jet ard steel beads
worked in a close Greek fret pattern and
coming 10 a sharp point in front. From
This point hang long strings OF large and
small jet and steel beads in a brilliant
fringe that with some women drops its
longest threads to the knees.
Furg that actually hypnotic the money
from a WOmau's pocket in spite of her
arrIars FHr-F Fr-H4 nd rsafu- Itch
ments. are now in the full fun Of autumn
beauty en- all sides. Never have the hand
some skins been so expensive as this year,
and never have they been more beautiful,
and the average conscientious shopper
nearly falls q victim Of nervous prosJration
in her efforts 10 decide whether she shall
stake all her pin money on q boa, a shoul-
der cape, or a great stately all embrace
ing softly enfOlding shaWl-shaped wrap.
Furs are rendered unusually expensive
his year because Of exceeding elaboration
They are all adorned with brown chiffon
friILs, CT lace-covered revers, or cravats OF
rich ribbon and lace
Tipped fox, silver fox, blue fox, and
smoked toI are the only really smart pelts
Cor b0as and it requires just Two whole
big foxes 10 compose a boa that VIII take
precedence for smaTtuess. One huge
L0wuy beast with its head and its tail and
its two hind legs attached TO his body. lies
broad collar OF comfort about the
waarer's neck. while his mate hangs down
before her. his head under the weare-'
chan, his tail brushing the hem of her
skirt Ponder0uz as this may sound and
heavy as iI may appear such q boa is as
coy as lambs wool. and as light as Cs-
trich feathers. Comments equally fat
Ieriug can be made iu behalf Of the vasi
shaWl-shapcd wraps whose point in the
rear nearly reaches the skirts train and
whose greatest glory lies in its wide rip
plllg rcver
CCuely as any Cc these fur tLirgs are thj
shoulder capes that thrifty Paris has taugh
OUT furriers 20 make up for young wearers
Seal plush is used as the f1uE-atiCl o.
most O. these. q high collar IS turned ~
tec0mirgIy about rte face and then a very
Tich but comparatively Inexpensive Gecora
s0a is achieved ag bordering a E-shapec
COLLAR with 1850 halls Of mink or Alaska
liable. running point and a group o
tails mp the Wlls. l--e. or three ermine
straps running over The arm connect tho
saca and fronts or shoulder piece and q
liE ClaE1t of IllEv figured paane 6roops
gracefully from q EIo- under The chin
in those happy -lt-mE hunting grounds
= ,leiF, The shops al eE-erpTisiug femi-
EiIlty IS agsp- and duttar over the skirts
Rlth bax-pl5ated backs There is no aues-
lion that this is @ laH and very probably :
permanent wrinkle lL skirt topography and
For women whose pags.gal architecture Is
yuch that certain amount Of lrapary is