The record-union., 1899-11-12

tune satin or light wool, has the upper
portion in long overskirt style, the
lower part gracefully f1ared, the back
laid in one very deep or two graduated
box plaits. Sometimes there is one long
over dress or shapely princesse skirt,
which, even formed of cloth Of rather
heavy weave, is made up unined ana
worn above f1ounced silk petticoat,
glimpse of which is revealed by the
slight lifting of the over dress at one
side.
Now that overdresses are made so
very long, it is good plan to utilize
the skirt of gown of other seasons
for the foundation skirt of the new
dress, goring it closely after it has
been freshened, and then adding to the
edge of this underskirt circular
fiounce, an accordion plated frill or a
Killed ruff1e of velvet, corded silk, or
satin. Then use new drap-d'ete, double
faced cashmere or cameps hair, for the
long princesse overdreSS or the slight
ly draped overskirt and fitted jacket
bodice; with vest or guimpe. collar and
sleeves matching the fabric used for
the new skirt ruff1e.
Very useful as we'll as ornamental are
the countless guimpe and yoke effects,
with matching sleeves, on many of the
fall and winter dresses. Never was
there a better opportunity effectively
and economically to freshen bodice
that is partly worn, taking out the old
sleeves and cutting away the entire top
of the waist, and, if necessary, a por-
ton of the front, leaving this open to
the waist, to show a pretty blouse eff
feet formed by a connecting niece of
the new brocade, tucked silk, dotted or
striped satin, which composes the
guimpe and sleeves.
The durable and handsome vicunas
appear in new designs and attractive
colorings for making natty tailor COS
tunes for demi-dress uses. Some of
the weaves show silky hair line stripes.
and dainty checks on surface of con-
trasting color. A pleasant change from
the striking color conglomerations
among fashionable dress fabrics, is
shown in the new plain colored double
faced cashmeres and drop d'ete weaves,
which have gained such marked favor
in the present clinging style of dress.
Chiffon and mousseline de sole are
permissible in second mourning and
also dull surfaced black crepe de chine.
Lusterless silks also make very elegant
gowns trimmed with crepe bands, fac
ngs and applique pieces exactly as they
are applied on colored costumes. When
crepe is chosen as a garniture it is con-
cir t0 Jt1n iat
passementerie as well, and OH
skirts decorated with graduated
bands or straps of crepe there
is line of the dull passementerie
at the head of each band or on each
side of the strap. Henrietta cloth is
still extensively used in mourning at
tire, but imperial serge (Which is very
different from ordinary serge) when
heavily trimmed, is by many considered
far handsomer than Henrietta CLOTH
For three different bridesmaids to
wear at a church wedding, there are
the following gowns: One is of soft
cream tinted crepe de chine, trimmed
with blush rose velvet and cream lace.
The second gown is pink Ottoman silk,
yelled with pink chiffon, and garnish-
ed with superb pattern in finely
wrought jewel passementerie. The third
gown is most beautiful being a grin
cesse slip of white satin, the skirt COW
cred with white lace flounces, gradu-
ated in width and laid over fiounces of
plated white chiffon. The waist is a
melange of lace, chiffon and satin, ar
ranged in a quaint and novel manner
each side of the front showing a diff
ferent style of decoration.
Graceful little stole fronted walking
jackets-the complement of simple tail
or made suits in brown, green, black
or blue ladies' cloth, are finished in
many cases with a notched vest of
cream colored cloth trimmed with two
lines of braid, laid side by side: one
of fine untarnished gold, the other of
braid the color of the cloth Stylish
English made cloth gowns have the
skirt finished at the hem with gradu-
ated fiounce trimmed with soutache in
Grecian pattern, the soutache the
80 r. \