The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1899-01-27
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WOMAN'S
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Every woman is continually asking
herself:-"What shall / wear under my
coat?"
1t is all very well to get one or two
pretty silk affairs at the beginning of
the season and wear them for church
and matinee and calling, but what about
the everyday affair, the shirtwaist that
you must wear with your tailor skirt
down to the luncheon table, or in the
pantry giving out the meals for the day,
and while you are around at the market
in the morning? A woman must look
just as neat and fresh then as she does
when she is calling or her most fash
ionable friends at 4 o'clock in the after
noon.
There are some women who are so
warm blooded they can wear linen shirt
waists in winter, but / do not like it, as
I nave said before; / think one wants
to make a change with the seasons.
But silk does wear out, corduroy does
get rusty. so French flannel is the smart
est material for these shirt waists. They
are made up very beautifully by the
artists, and yet can be made with beauty
and simplicity by the amateur.
They have no bones and most of them
nave no Innings, but | prefer a camprlc
lining in mine to give that certain set
to the seams that 1 think all soft ma
terial needs | nave all my taffeta shirt
waists lined with a strong quality OF
muslin that, l think. makes them wear
twice as long
Red and blue are the two favorite
colors, and the bright blue that has a
black stripe through it is exceedingly
effective. These shirts are neat and in
good taste, and when the cold days
come the brightness of the coloring
gives a warmth and charm to the most
severe tailor gown that is most admir-
able.
A woman may lay her shirt waist pat
tern on this flannel and make it exactly
as she does her linen one. In this way,
by making them up at home, she may
have three or four where the busy
woman like myself, who has to rush to
the dressmaker for everything can only
afford one or two.
Many are made with a yoke in the
back. with the goods pleated on instead
of gathered; some of the fancy ones
have the round yokes that are SO popu-
lar, laid in deep pieats or corded.
A very pretty red one I saw, a orlsht
red. that looked soft and fell in soft
folds to the figure. l had a circular
woke with lattice NOfh Adlu ~
very narrow velvet ribbon; each rib
bon ended IN q loop at the line of the
yoke and waist. This made a very pretty
trimming, and it was applied also on the
cuffs.
A mistake so many women MAKE III
cutting these flannel waists is to make
them too full all around like a linen
shirt waist. forgetting that the starch
takes up the fullness of the linen ana
keeps il in place and trim to the figure,
whereas the flannel falls in wrinkles and
,,nga5u!v sloppiness. The figure needs
this fitted a little more snugly. If you
will nut side bodies in these flannel
shirts YOU will find the fit immensely i'm
proved.
The waist to look well must not slop
under the arms no matter how pietur-
esnue YOU may wish to be IN the cholce
of YOUR garments. The thing can De
loose and show every line and supple
movement of the wearer without being
so loose that it is sloppy.
only a slight pouch is worn on the
shirt waist today, but however much or
little it is, it must have its best ut across
the bust line.
The shoulders are growing longer ana
longer on shirt waists, and side bodies
must come very high and snug up under
the arm to keep the sleeve in good posi-
ton.
If the woman has time she can lay the
front of her flannel shirt waist in tucks.
Polka dot velvet has made the craze
for polka dot material. Polka dots in
velveteen and commoner goods are very
much the rage, but one must go a little
slow about suggesting it, as one OF the
new fashions. True, it is a new FASHION,
but the woman who gets it may be very
tired of it before spring.
If a woman has not much money, ano
wants to have plenty of pretty waists let
her avoid novelties. Let her avoid pat
terms that are pronounced. She VIII ma
the solid colors very much more charm
ing after they have been worn several
months. Certain eolors are like certain
people; they always impress one that
they are true, steadfast and loyal.
one runs after novelties in materials as
one runs after novelties in people, but
there is a certain sense of security about
old friends and old materials that makes
one always go back to them.
A woman car happily the same list of
tricks with her collar on her flannel shirt
waist that she does with her collar on
her SILK shirt waist. me moSl eidUoidtc
silk stock is worn with flannel and the
little lace fo~ur-in-hand of which | have
already written, is seen there, too.
One thing more should be said about
making these shirt waists, but l sup
pose it is something veryone knows,
who makes clothes at home. To make
a shirt waist with box. pleats or tucks,
it is first necessary to pleat the goods
- 49,. z,+ 1x+ +11 rrotof
The very latest tueks are really box
pleats about half an nch wide with the
same distance between each one. The
woman who wants something new had
better try this trick in trimming before
the shops bring it out on the counters
1t will tax neither your ingenuity nor
your time to make one of the very new
est effects designed by the importers.
For those who contemplate a new even
ing dress of a thoroughly practical char
acter there is a charming model of Lib
erty satin. Liberty satin, you all know,
wears splendidly, does not crush, is very
wide and is good style. The corsage of
this model was plain and absolutely tight
hitting. 1t reached quite to the waist,
and was of the cut seen in fashion plates
after the short wasted bodice had gone
$40 of roy Tho shirt which iainpd if