The daily chieftain. [volume] (Vinita, Ind. Ter. [Okla.]) 1898-1902, 1899-10-12
GOWNS OF SILK cREPoN.
Crea tsons That Are Built over
Foundation OF Black
Tanetr-

taffeta silk which has six or seven ruff
fles get inside OF the skirt, giving it o
| fluffy look when raised, but not in
terfering with the princess-like sweep
Of the upper drapery. The crepon is
laid on the foundation in an unbrokeq
| effect, the bottom being scalloped and
trimmed with narrow ruchings Of chif-
| ION. The waist is of crepon, with a
heavily jetted yoke which extends low
on the bodice and is finished with q
set of tiny scollops with the chiffon
ruchings. The stock is of chiffon, with
tracery of jet beads and is relieved
at the upper edge by a narrow fold
the black and corresponds with the
girdle which is also of jet relieved by
tiny waist of velvet. The sleeves are
of jetted chiffon, and are wrinkled on
the arm, ending in small twist of vel
vet. The hat is Of tucked black chiffon,
the high crown being heavily jetted and
encircled by a band of black velvet tied
in front in smart bow. The trimming
consists of bunch of ostrich tips set
well to one side. Under the brim at
the back there is just a suggestion Of
the cerise velvet which relieves the SOM
Der tone of the hat and brings it into
harmony with the remainder of the
costume The parasol is black chiffon
with narrow shirrings which give
fluffy and becoming finish. While the
crepons are light enough in texture to
make them available for late summer
wear the majority of them, from the
character of the patterns and the rich
ness of the fabric, are really better
suited for early fall and for winter
wear; the extra weight can be given
them by employing a heavier lining silk
and by using more elaborate trimmings.
A walking gown which presents an
extremely good effect is Of deep shade
of violet broadcloth of medium weight.
The tunic skirt is laid ON the silk /
foundation without wrinkle; the
jacket is close fitting and can be left |
open, to show the underwaist of pale
violet silk, or can be tightly fastened |
showing only the reyers of white silk, |
which are closely braided in blach |
soutache. A turban or toque of black /
felt, with violet velvet bow or rosette,
so arranged in the folding as TO re-
semble large rose, forms the founda-
tion for cluster of slender black wings
which stand up in jauuty manner.
A golden brown rainy day suit of the
fashionable reversible materials has the
inside in mixture of brown and or
ange. The skirt just reaching the an
kles has eight or ten rows of tailor
stitching; the skirt is tight fitting
about the hips, flares widely at the bot
tom, and as the material is heavy and
somewhat wiry, swings clear of the
ankles. The shirt waist is of golden
brown liberty satin and is absolutely
plain, being made after the same pat
tern as wash waist; instead of
sillIen stock it has band and linen
collars with bright colored four-in-
hands are worn. The jacket is of the
same material, the plaid serving as
lining, the seams being bound with
brown. The jacket shows narrow
apels and tightlEroiled collar, while
the sleeves are as close fitting as It is
possible 10 make them and yet admit
of the free play of the arms. A jaunty
little felt hat with band of ribbon
and a quill, together with stout walk.
ng boots and tightly rolled brown
silk umbrella completes costume in
which the plainest damsel would look
attractive and the prettiests sgiri-pret-
ier still. These rainy days gowns are
he most sensible things which have yet
appeared in the line of dress reform;
hey are not so short as 10 EXPOSE the
eet and hosiery, md yet are short
'nough to escape the wet payements
md leave the hands free for umbrella
md package. Besides they are SO warm
hat they can be worn with tights and
white skirts, those denominations on
Amy days, bedraggled, limp and mud Z
tanned, can be dispensed with.
As the materials come in every pos
ible shade of light and dark gray,
,rown, blue, green, olive, red, plum
nd the variations thereof, it should
lot be a difficult matter to make a
hoice and as the wrong side is equal 1
y beautiful with the right double sat z
sfaction can be secured; one thing,
owever, is absolutely essential-these
uits must be strictly tailor made and,
moreover, made by tailor-which is
ot always the same thing--as many
iscover to their great chagrin.-Chi-
ago Chronicle.
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