The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1899-01-29
CORRECT EVENING DRESS FOR MEN
NecI<ties for Full Dress and Demi-
TOiIet-ChanEes of Trousers.

Neckties for Full Dress and Demi-
TOilet-ChanEes of Trousers.
New York, Jan. 27-There have been
several changes in evening clothes this
winter, the most noticeable being a slight
shortening of the skirts of the coat Early
in the season there was an attempt to in
troduce velvet collars. but it did not meet
with the approval anticipated by the tall
ors, and the experiment may be regarded
as failure. The coat continues, of
course, to be faced with satin or gros
grain silk. and the buttons to be covered
with silk lasting
There is something quite new in the col
lar of the Tuxedo, which. as everybody
knows, is a kind of glorlhed sack coat for
informal evening wear. This coat has
heretofore been made only with rolling
collar, but this winter many men are
wearing Tuxedos with notched collars
similar to those on full-dress coats,
though the graceful rolling collar still con-
tinues to be the favorite. The only peck
ct in this coat is on the inside, opened by
a perpendicular slit in the lining.
The waistcoat and tie worn with the
Tuxedo must always be black, the former
ter a narrow strip of black satin, no other
tie being permissible The old contro-
versy as to whether a tall hat should be
worn with a Tuxedo has finally been set
tied in the affirmative, for while the Tux
edo is certainly a sack coat, still it is not
the kind of sack coat with which the
wearing of a tall hat is prohibited. There
has also been some disagreement as to the
occasions on which one may properly
wear a Tuxedo and it may be well to an
swer that question now: A Tuxedo coat
may properly be worn at the theater, at
a dinner party where there are no ladies
present, in the evening at home, and at
ones club.
The fashion of putting a cord or braid
down the outside seam of the leg of even
ing trousers Is gradually dying out, though
the stripe is still worn by some military
men and a few actors There has been no
very recent change in either the length or
cut of the trousers. Those worn with
evening dress should never have pockets
at the sides. Most men have none at all,
except a tiny watch pocket; but if one
insists on having them, the openings
should be cut diagonally just below the
waistband.
The latest evening waistcoats have only
three buttons, instead of four, and they
are preferably double-breas ted, though a
few single-breas ted ones are seen. But If
a white vest is worn, it should always
be double breasted and fastened by plain
pearl buttons. The finest evening vests
are now lined throughout, back and front,
with white. satin. and have four pockets.
two in the usual place near the bottom
and two smaller ones high up near the
arm-holes. These pockets are mere Sits
and have no flaps. Last year there was an
t,.A. I. a.
cts, but the innovation did not meet with
APPROVAL and was, finally abandoned.
The favorite materials for evening dress
are whipcord and vicuna cloth. the latter
being a very soft material with a rough
woody surface Broadcloth for evening
wear is quite out of date, except for old
men and clergymen. An effort has been
made to introduce the custom, which is
steadily gaining ground in London, of
wearing evening clothes made of dark
gray whipcord but so far the attempt has
not met with success in this country In
verness overeoats of this gray material
are, however, made to be worn with black
evening clothes, though the black Inver-
ness is preferred by most men,
The various accessories which go to
make up the evening attire of a wel-dress-
ed man are of great Importance. The shoes
should always be of patent leather and
laced Sharp pointed toes are no longer
worn
Gloves should be white with barely per-
ceptible white stitching on the back, the
broad stitching seen on evening gloves a
year or two ago being entirely out of fash
ion. Pearl gray gloves are barely per-
Missile, but are not looked upon with
favor by careful dressers. The handker-
chief carried should be of the finest linen,
with a very narrow hemstitched border
The high, straight collar overlapping in
front or with slightly bent corners is the
correct thing for fun dress. The corners
of the cuffs should be square, not round
ed. the latter shape being considered In
bad taste.
The tie for fun dress should be of lawn,
very narrow and square at the ends, those
with pointed ends being out of date The
well-dressed man never under any circum-
stances wears a ready made up evening
lie, always tying the bow himself. In Sc
lecting a tie one should take care TO get
one Of the proper length as the loops and
ends when tied should be short. 1t is very
important that the tie should be held
firmly down in front, and there are several
devices for effecting this the best of them
being little thing in gold wire, curved
so as to slip under the collar button, and
having at each end sharp hook which
catches into the tie and holds il securely
IN place
The faVorite evening shirt is open part
way down both back and front the shirts
opening all the way down the front rot
being generally satisfactory, because in
laundering they are apt to become stretch
ed on one side 50 that the stud-holes viii
not meet properly.
The studs should be very small ones, of
tiny pearls or of plain gold. Either two
or three studs may be worn, according to
the preference of the wearer. The cuffs
must be fastened with links, which should
also be very small and plain; and no Jew
elry on any kind, neither watch chain nor
fob, should ever be worn with evening
dress. E. G. B.
SAYS THERE WAS NO CONFERENCE.