The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1899-11-19
FOR WELL DRESSED MEN.
CORRECT GLOVES FOR MORNING,
AFTERNOON AND EVENING WEAR.

| IOnADle trousers AMu AOAtH Oh
Neckties and shirt studs.
New York, Nov. l7.-There has been
no article of masculine apparel more thor
oughly abused than the little bob-tailed
dinner jacket, known in England as the
Cowes coat, and on this side as the Tux
edo. For a number of years now, men
have been forcing the comfort Of the Tux
edo far as they dared. appearing at
the theater, in hotel dining rooms and
even at small dinners in the tailless gar
ment, which is nothing more nor less in
| reality than a smoking jacket, and intro
| duced for use only on the most informal
! ana Bohemian occasions This winter a
stand has been taken against any further
excursions of the dinner jacket into the
realms of smart society, and the man who
wears one when he dimes in public with
| women or when he dimes at home with
any save his immediate family, is well out
| Of line with the present rules of good
| dressing. At a music hall, In the company
of men alone, or at the club, dinner jack
| ct is appropriate, elsewhere its appearance
| proves its wearer is either Indifferent or
| Ignorant of the customs of his sex.
From London have lately come a fresh
| supply VI Nnitt evening WdiSlCOdIS.
| namented with gilt buttons, and already a
| few have been seen about at the early
/ theater parties and dinners, but, as a rule,
| the conservative American man, as fear
| ful as an Adirondack deer of a bit of color
| IN the evening, clings to his familiar duck
| waistcoat, fastened double breasted with
| large white pearl buttons, though there
is every argument in favor of the touches
| of gilt in the somber evening toilet.
During the Coming season white whist
| coats will be worn almost exclusively at
! balls and at the opera, and no man who
| knows anything of the taste that now pre-
| walls over his wardrobe will dare wear
| gold buttons in his immaculate shirt front
! The perfect expression of current fashion
| as well as good judgment is a pair of
! medium white pearls screwed into the
| linen A smart man or two last year tried
to Introduce colored pearls. but the major
| ity derided the suggestion out of existence
and a couple of handsome pearls so fixed
| to the gold screws that no setting shall be
| visible is the acme of elegance.
| A good pearl costs more than the aver
| age man Is willing to invest in his evening
toilet, concession to economy is still
made TO the white enamel studs though
| it is admitted that the jewelers. can and
do sell imitation pearl studs that defy crit
| icism and that are within the reach Of
any mans purse.
Relating to Trousers.
The outside seams of evening trousers
| have been latterly undergoing an amount
! of manipulation that has left good many
| honest souls wondering what the outcome
! would be. The whole matter has resolv-
| ed itself into the conclusion that if you
| wish to affect the purely American taste
| in tailoring those important outside seams
! must be Tapped and extremely fastideous
men there are who approve and adopt this
| quiet style. To announce yourself as ex-
tremely up-to-date by the fashions. as is
sued from London, you must wear two
narrow lines of bright, black silk braid
| down the outside seam instead of the one
broad braid as formerly, though the single
wide braid is not out of style at all
While we are about the question Of
trousers, let 1t be known by those who are
on the verge of placing any orders with
their tailors, that the most approved and
prevailing cut of these garmets is for as
snug a fit as the figure can bear about
the hip line. The slight wasted and lean
hipped man comes nearest to the build OF
| the modern Apollo, and to accentuate the
clean lines with a close fitting garment Is
what every expert and disinterested tailor
earnestly recommends. To the knee the
line of the garment slopes taperingly and
below this point there is an undeniab'e
outward spring, for though the perfect
| trousers leg is cut on a system of curves.
like faultessly proportoned Greek col
umn, il should appear absolutely straight
1t is not yet too early to make conclu-
| sive observations concerning neckties AMI
| gloves and the best dressed men seen in
the theaters and restaurants adopt, with
| important exceptions, dull black silk neck
| ties instead of satin, with evening dress
when the waistcoat is of black goods
matching the coast and trousers.
Gloves for All Seasons.
In the evening. the opera, the theater
party assembled in box, all balls, night
weddings and exceedingly large dinners
call out the glove of ceremony, namely the
| ivory white glace or dressed kid 1t is a
glove stitched with white silk and fasten-
ed with two large white pearl buttons
American men, hitherto rather oblivous of
| the law regulating the wearing of gloves
are yielding more and more to the grip of
the cloSefitIng white kid, and the man in
| the theater or opera box or even In the
opera orchestra, keeps his gloves button
ed in place through the evening. This is
| heroic. because white gloves are uncom-
Portable and costly and so great is the hor-
ror with the fashionable youth of appear
ing in an evening glove from which the
first freshness has been brushed that lie
carries several pair with him to balls and
changes as often as three times in the
course of a busy evening.
For less formal evening functions than
those enumerated above, pearl gray glace
kids with white pearl buttons, are much
worm while for afternoon weddings cali,
receptions etc, grey and snuff colored
suede or undressed kids, are imperative.
Two large pearl buttons at either wrist
| serve as the best fastening for these and
men who lay great stress on detail, de-
nounce as intensely vulgar" and patent
clasps on the afternoon hand coverings. 1t
is quite another matter concerning The
morning glove. One large brass snap but
ton holds this firm. and extremely heavy
dog skin of tan brown or red brown
| color showing rather massive seams &c
the choicest style. This glove serves for
riding but the automobilist or the man
who handles the ribbons in the park. pulls
on a pair of one buttoned gloves, having
the backs of heavy undressed brown or
gray castor beaver the fingers showing
| large guessets at the base of every finger
and the palm ridged to give an effective
grip on reins or levers
Beau Brummel.