Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1899-12-23
,,,,,, ,nnnnnnrI NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS.

pillow. and kicked IL Indignantly away
swearing that no son OF his should IN
dulge In such effeminite luxury.
In Portugal, where everything trench
Is hated. you must not say table
hote. but speak Of the same thing as
mesa rodondo, tround table, though IN
form the literal board is long ana
narrow, No matter what hour you ar
rive at Bon Jesus. your dinner VIII Do
served In live minutes, on one END ot
the lengthy table. You may amuse
Yourself. II you like. with ordering
from the volumnlous menu; but II you
designate twenty different dinners on
as many different days the result WIN
be precisely the same each time, with
possibly not an articel you have men
toned The greatest dellcacy and
triumph of the Portuguese cuisine Is
bacalhau. (codnsh), which Is costller
than turkey, game, or the best or beef
The natives prefer II raw, cut into inch
wide strips that look like bits OF red
zine: they also broll IT, like Patomac
shad. make il into a sort Of Irish stew,
or mince and fry II In balls-always
with too plentiful combination OF oil
and garlic. Among other favorite
dishes. bequeathed by the Moors and
saracens is a dessert known as reban-
adas-thick slices OF wheaton bread,
soaked in milk, fried in olive oil and
then thIckly spread with honey, The
sticky. dyspepsia promoting compound
bears a distant relationship 10 what we
call French toast" and you meet with
II everywhere among the nomad
tribes between Arabit and Morocco,
- f.a
In any Portuguese inn you need not
give an order concerning morning
call because the tone OF voice In which
the internal economy OF the household
Is conducted, banishes slumber long be-
fore daylight. It Is well TO arise with
the sun at BON Jesus, in order to eat
the morning air" In the picturesque
language OF the country, and also to
enjoy the magnificent prospects from
the balconies OF the building. To the
westward, almost
BENEATH YOUR FEET.
HES Braga. encampei between gray
and purple mountains. The sun glints
obliquely on the red green and yellow
walls OF the old town, bringing out In
bold relief the brown towers Of the
great cathedral and the quaint square
turrets OF its medieval castle, Far
to the eastward lies the strange city
Of Gujmaraens, with the Falperra range
between. Look closely and If the day
be clear, you may see a white speck
on an outlying spur Of the mountains,
eight or ten miles off. as the crow flies.
II is the sacred chapel OF Sac Romao--
a calvary to which, on a certain day
Of the year. thousands Of pilgrims as
cend. making the last stage Of the
Journey on their knees. 1t is not the
comparatively modern chapel that most
interest the stranger. but that puzzles
OF antiquity. the city OF Citinia, whose
ruins occupy the same eminence. The
hill itself Is treeless, rising sharply and
alone amid rich corn fields and vine
yards watered by the Este river. on
its summit, nearly thousand feet
above the plain, Is mesa, perhaps 300
feet across. All this level space. and
some distance from the steep incline,
Is covered with mysterious ruins
stone flooring, street pavings, and
house walls, solidy built OF we'll
grained stone. The singular thing
about II is that while most Of the
houses we're complete circles, every
tenth building was square and OF larger
dimensions, all set so close together
that the dividing walls must have been
not more than three inches apart The
inference Is that in some prehistoric
time this must have been a place OF
refuge in time OF danger for the pas
toral peaple Of the valley. Not sim
gle weapon Of any kind has been dis