The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1899-06-10

the other and then turning backward.
There was a large squarish bow made
of the crepe lisse tucked in squares. Di-
rectly in front was one of the large new
buckles in enamel and imitation jewels.
The shape of these reminds one of ar
mortal bearings. This hat was a marvel
of lightness and GOODNESS.
The old deep shoulders are beginning
to show on some of our new dresses. 1t
| strikes one with a mild shock to see in
the same place, side by side with all sorts
of tailor and other gowns, with short
shoulder seams, the new gown where the
shoulder is curved out and down around
again, following the outline of the figure
with remarkable fidelity. The sleeves
are set in almost on a line with the bust.
The effect is very odd.
One suit of this style had a deep point
ed yoke of mauve silk overlaid with
Limerick lace. The shoulder seams were
shaped to the outline of the wearer and
were even dropped a little over the arm.
This requires that the dress fasten in
the back. and the front of the yoke is
all in one piece. The idea works out
well when the wearer has gracefully
sloping shoulders. Yet the great ma
jority of all gowns have the sleeves set
high on the shoulders.
The rest of this dress was made of
striped mauve and white ~taffeta, with
three three inch straight founces Of plain
mauve taffeta around the bottom, each
headed and edged with a ruching of
white silk null not half an inch wide. 1
do not see how this was made so narrow.
The sleeves were long down over the
hand and quite plain at the bottom, while
at the top there were two rufles like
those on the skirt. The lower part of the
waist was bloused of the striped while
the belt was of the plain ~taffeta, with
three narrow rufies below the yoke all
around, except directly at the point in
front. Where the rufles ended a rosette
bow of mauye satin ribbon was placed.
The ruffies gave the waist the appear
ance of a sort of figaro.
The yoke was cut so that it formed a
collar all in one, and the effect was to
bring into distinct prominence the fact
that it was all in one piece and planned
with a view to emphasize the sloping
sweep of the shoulders.
Most sleeves are long and narrow, but
with more or less plating at the shoulder
seam. 1t is very trying to almost any
woman to have entirely tight sleeves.
The elbow sleeves are certainly fashion
able, but, strange to say, we see but few
of them. Perhaps when the torrid days
of July are here they will be better liked.
They are even cooler than they look. It
Is a well known fact that what cools the
wrists cools the blood.
This week has been a ~spangled and
glittering one. 1t seems as if the eyes
were fairly dazzled. Spangled net skirts
all ready to be worn have taken the Lead.
Next them are the spangled "all overs"
to be used for skirts and waists at will.
The skirts, which are nearly all made cir
cular, have pieces of lace of which to
make or drape waists. Some of these are
accordion plated, with the pattern
wrought SO that it does not interfere with
the hang of the plaits. These spangled
black lace and net dresses are for after
moor as. well as evening, the manner of
making the bodice determining the re-
Guirement. They sell all the way from
S15 to $50. They are really elegant.
Some pieces of white net are ~spangled
in silver. This is beautiful for vests, to
be worn with almost anything.
There are a great many woolly skirts
in large and generally rather snowy
plaid to be worn with the ubiquitous
shirt waist. These are very stylish. The
next to these in popularity, 1 think, are
the black grenadines. These are in floral
designs, mostly very small. They are
strong, but look cool and are thin. The
iron frame grenadine has been a favor
lite for over 80 years. 1t is like iron as
far as solidity and wear are concerned,
though not so snowy as some silk grena-
dimes. The Mexican mesh is also a good
and durable weave.