Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1899-09-17
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! fur and all the rest OF the pattern en-
| broidered and mingled with lace sutches'
Collars for opera-cloaks are singularly ei-
foctive I'm this style. and are senerahy
large enough 10 reach 10 the shouluers'
after the order Of the cape collars no"
worn. Occasionally the fur and the lace
are supplemented by f0w jewels, and
with sable small turquoises, seem 10 nave
the predominance.
Our designers are falling back on many
splendid fashions Of medieval days ior
almost anything repeated IN our mOueth
days can adapt itself to the current fash-
ions. The craquele net is capital touh-
tain Cor applique, but 1t Is always ne
ceseary that with the fur there should be
a background Of either lace stitches or
linen applique which blends well with the
dark fur that alone would seem too
heavy and sombre. Indeed, the fur ought
10 be used sparingly. In the first place,
it would be too heavy for the lace. and
II certainly would lose a good deal of its
grace. for It is both magnificent and
graceful.
THE EFFECT OF LACE.
Almost any Of the Italian laces can be
utilized for this new lace work. ana some
Of the people who have torn specimens
are hiding the shred by fur applique,
which they back with a light make OF
linen that gives them solidity. 1t should
always be the heavier make OF lace. En-
glish point, Spanish point, and some OF
the pretty French laces are all suitable
and it IS astonishing how much effect a
very little fur makes. 1t simplihes mat
tiers much, as far as needlework IS CON
cerned. If in lieu of a heavy buttonholed
l.. oil
given TO which to attach a narrow border
ing of fur. Even during the heat of the
late season | saw a lovely white lisse
gown draped over pink silk. bordered with
narrow beaver Dame Fashion delights
in these marked contrasts, especially IN
Paris. A point d'Argentan tiounce is one
of tho best examples have seen with iur
introduced: the designs are holder than
d'Alencon. and IL recalls Venetian point
as far as workmanship and exquisite eX-
ecution but the design and workmanship
are very different indeed the flowers more
COMPACT. Some Of the old point de France
made between 1865 and 17D at Loury is
perhaps as close an imitation OF raised
Venetian and Spanish point; but OF course,
Il would be q great pity TO treat any pre-
cious old lace with fur for TO make IL
sufficiently substantial good deal or
close sewing is required which would De
highly detrimental to the close lhreau'
Almost any patterns chosen from the
early cut work would make beauiilul OF
lamentations for dresses. We seem 10
have but little inventive power in our
days. and have to fall back on old models
GOLD AND SILVER THREAD.
People have a very indistinct idea Of
what is bone" lace-viZ., pillow lace
made with bone bobbins. 1t is always
good thing. as far as real lace is con-
cerned. that we should have fashlons
which do not require the use OF an inor-
dinate amount Of lace, and 1t tends That
wav now. 1t has been considered good
taste all the year through TO wear real
lace even in the daytime, and one OF the
great costumiers in Paris has been lay
ing narrow bands Of Spanish point over
strips Of dark long-haired fur, so that
some of the hairs are visible between tho
interstices Of the pattern. Gold and sill
YER thread always seem to be in mar
monv with this rich style Of ornamenta-
ton: indeed. in the Tudor days, when a
vast deal of fur was worn, gold ana Sill
Yer lace was, perhaps, more worn than al
any other period, and some of the part
lets covering the shoulders were maze OF
such lace, with borderings or tur, the
long. hanging sleeves being bordered
with furbelow insertion.
EVENING AND DINNER COSTUMES
/ have as yet told you nothing OF eve
ming and dinner costumes and, indeed
there are. as yet, very few exhibited by
the best houses. A specially beauliiul
seen this week was OF OLD
rose uncut velvet. The trained skirt or
the velvet, cut in circular shape, ana
made i'm a single piece, was encrusted
with applications of flowers Of Venice
lace. leaving the tablier plain. The waist
very slightly bloused. was Of Venice gui-
pure. thickly sewed with mother-ot-pearl
spangles. The edge Of the decollete was
trimmed with two wide-folded biases or
the epingle. or uncut velvet, that of the
right crossing the other, and continuing
10 the first side seam of the waist. Three
rows of black velvet ribbon were set In
epaulette form, surrounding the arm scye.
The sleeves were long. falling slightly
over the hand and were made OF the
Venice guipure.
I have described this beautiful gown at
length, as II was made Of epinsle velvet,
one of the new materials for rich tot
lettes Indeed, velvets. both cut and UNI
cut, will be extremely fashionable TINS
winter Here is another elegant dinner
gown, this time a princess form. 1t is
an ivory white satin, and has square
decollete The front is entirely covere}
with guipure, which gradually slopes of
into a fiounce en- forme, which passes en-
tirely around the skirt Beautiful ro-
settles Of velvet mousseline are set on the
waist and at intervals down the closing
Of the lace tabier.