The times., 1899-02-12
Wasp Waists All the Style
Just Now.
Every Woman ShonId Own span
gled Gown.
Summer Hats VIII uc BfIiour With
TulIe-"Orchard nIoom" the
Newest Popular Tint.

against reducing your waist measure by
means of a long steady pull on your stay
strings. then don't, for good looks sake,
attempt 10 have your spring gowns cut on
the new mode. large waist is not to be
tolerated with the shape of skirt and
basque We are now wearing, and every wo-
man who still nourishes the ancient belief
of her sex that comfort and health ought
TO be invariably sacrificed to beauty. is
painting and lacing with the vigor of fifty
years ago.
This is wceful, but We are ali painting
after a small round zone, sweeping hip
arch and a perfectly fiat abdomen, which
are only to be got by means OF the new
canvas silk and linen stays, with their
tough silk laces. Most OF the new corsets
are, TO begin with absolutely plain; their
only ornamentation is a little decorative
needlework about their tips. They are
heavily boned, but the best of them are not
made of the clumsy coutille, by the
strength of which such store used to be
laid.
Coutille it is agreed, gives the figure
stiff hard expression, and nowadays the
supple grace of aspect. The truly we'll
cut corsets are made very short in the
back. curved out under the shoulder blade,
and on the hip proper they are short and
boneless, while the steel and whalebone
is brought to the front. BY this simple de-
vice il is wonderful the way useful curves
are thrown out and humpish superfuity
crushed in, and woman whose stays are
very tight moves about with the apparent
elasticity Of a skirt dancer.
Now, We wont raise any hygienic ques-
tions here, but rest on the assertion that
from a modish point of view the new cor
Set accomplishes wonders, and If you hap
pen to be as thin as the proverbial fence
rail-so thin, indeed, that no amount of
lacing could produce hips or bust-Ihen
you can easily buy pair of prepared stays
that will produce them for you. These will
be made of a linen net, having aerated
pads in the right places. The pads, by
the way, are so prepared as not to heat
the body, and so diminish the flesh, as
clumsy cotton pads do. Next summer such
delicately built women as need neither 10
lace nor TO pad will popularize the sweet
est little corsets, made all of tough, fiat
linen lace, while already for home wear
the corset makers are showing pretty
things made of horizontal rows of linen
beading, through which broad satin rib
bons run to~form the walls of the stay
Next after corsets and their vagaries and
cruelties, the topic of most burning in
terest among fashionable feminines is jet
ted net. Who is so poor. or so hopelessly
conservative, that jetted net is not pos
sible or needed in her wardrobe? Every
one who assumes to have a social place
possesses one, and it is safe to say that the
cost Of pretty costume of this material, in
black net, Of course. Illuminated with black
sequins and hung over black lace silk, can
be reckoned at $50 and up. The economy
OF this species of toilet is that 1t is assured
TO be eminently smart for the next twelve
months, and it is appropriate for every
occasion.
Like the good wine that needs no bush,
q sequined net requires no trimming and
the more severely simple its build, the
more absolute is its claim 10 be called fash
ionable. Very few of these toilets but are
made up high in the throat and long in
the sleeve, with an under waist of silk SO
contriyed that the arms and shoulders can
be swathed in or denuded Of the silk lin
ings at the wearers Will, or as occasion
seems TO demand. high or decollete effect
beneath her net waist. The skirt must be
very long in front and boasting some train
behind, and the highest authorities do not
counsel the wearing of colored neckbands
or girdles with such brilliant black toilet.
En- passant, let 1t be advised that you
who care TO be abreast of fashion do not
buy anything more in turquoise blue.
Wear out whatever you have of this or
lay il away and make your bows and neck
bands and fresh hat crowns of velvet or
satin mauve. II, however, blue is essen
TALLY your color. adopt Sevres or ash blue.
They are both tender, lovely tones, and
very much in demand. Antique or uncut
velvet is material that has had just one
winter of vogue, and was never a very
useful goods.
The dressmakers no longer countenance
the use Of ribbon girdles and collars on
their new toilets. They insist that 1t is
neither tidy nor becoming to finish of a
dress so. and that the collar especially
should be fixed and rather elaborate de-
tail of a costume. They are opening a
spring Of collars that are high as ever,
with ruiis and lappets back of the ears and
often very big bows in front. crush vel
vet stock is not good taste; II has been
superseded by a stiffened band OF silk laid
In tiny perpendicular tucks. having pointed
projecting bits set on and resting directly
behind the ears.
All the girdles are narrow folds of vel
vet drawn TO slight point in front, often
through a tiny bright buckle or just fold
ed over at the ends and made fast with in
visible pins.
Make ready, say the milliners. for a
spring OF small hats raised off the face
and In shape but slight departures from
the toques in velvet that have prevailed all
winter. One feature OF the straw hats is
already budding forth, and that is delicate
tulle trimming. BY this is not implied
the gilded tuIle tOques that very smart
personages are already wearing but sim
pie straw shapes showing pretty big
rusettes of tulle with hearts OF small
flowers. Many sensible souls are ripping
of dusty ribbons from their faithful winter
headgear and furnishing up with these
sweet clean tulle ornaments in deep rose
tulle, for instance, with dull red carnation
hearts; lilac tulle with violet centers, or
white net with buttercup hearts.
The silks for the new season are iaunt-
ing their glories in every shop. and some
Of them are old frineds with novel names.
goodly showing though, Is made of
surahs and foullards that are guaranteed
TO wash and concerning whose popularity
there need be no question.
The newest color In foulards is orchard
bloom, and 1t is noticeable that crisp silks
have somehow crept out of sight In the
place Of the once dearly loved taffeta we
have Trfcotrine, Marchalotte and moirette
and pongee up TO date, showing a soft
fneness and beauty OF decoration that is
beyond everything ever seen before Ben
ealine silk popiin and light wool goods
with a strong infusion of silk command