Delaware gazette and state journal., 1899-11-30
PORTIA'S new YORK LETTER.

1uJUtlilld GOetl5 hlbh OshoIo So1lhi6
are among the striking innovations in
fu1s fer miady la mode. Brown
velvet with white satin studded with
turquoise for yoke, makes charming
effect for a calling gown. Beth was
sitting by the fire. She paused and
looked at me. II wonder," she said,
"if all these fashion writer's think all
women have the Golfers of Croesus.
They speak of chinchilla. sable and
turquoise as though they grew on trees
in our front garden. " looked up from
behind pile Of last years gowns on
tho bed. Don't bother about all
that / said, sit is not SO hard after
all to look up-to-date; it just takes
time and good management So put
down that paper and get at these things
chaos something that will give US an
air OF Rue de La faix.
Last years cloth skirt no good? Non
sense. just have those pleats taken
out OF the back and close up the
placket hole, above all things. The
old lady who sewed sleeve in a placket
and optimistically observed sit will all
come out in the wash," was probably
the foI erunner Of the disappearance of
that womap's bette noir, the placket.
1t has Capped and grinned its last. No
more do We hear the little street urchin
chuokling, 81 say, lady, yer Packets
showin'." The well-dressed woman
Is fastened up taut in the back.
ANY fulness about the hips must
come out and the skirt must spread out
below the knees. If 1t is not the shape
to obtain that effect, cut it off at the
knees, being sure to make it slope long
in the back and front, and shcrt on the
sides; then have drop skirt cut in the
latest spreading fashion on which have
three bias ruffles of a contracting ma
terial. Now. this skirt of brown cloth
will luok we'll cut off that way at the
knees, with drop skirt with bias ruffles
of black broadoloth with raw edges.
| To insure good hanging for this style
| of skirt one must be very particular
about the underneath. We are told
that the Eetticoat, the fluffy silk petit
coat, is breathing its last dying gasps.
i mean, of course, for the street.
sFor housewear 1T is taking on more
gorgeousness than ever. But for the
street the fin de steele girl wears--be
| not shocked when l breathe it to YOU
knickerbockers Yes, just plain, tight
fitting black satin knickerbockers, with
buckle and bow at the knee to give
them bit of feminine grace These
will be lined with lightweight
flannel for warmth. oh, | don't say
every woman is doing it. Phyllis, but
with these very tight clinging skirts, a
pettiooat, unless cut exactly as the
skirt itself, ruins the effect
Above all, Phyllis, dear, be careful
about the lines. 1t is complicated
subject, but necessary TO be thoroughly
understood by one who wishes to
appear la mode. First learn that a
straight line must be avoided. 1t has
no place in nature or art. 1t has .
place only in mathematics. A sloping
line IN skirt, procured by the effect
of trimming either in biaids or ruiles,
breathes OF the artistic. Straight up
and down or straigKt.around trimming
spoils the effect of an otherwise artistic
gown. The fad is now with these
long gowns. for the lines to slope
down toward the back.
Um-that gray bengaline skirt? All
have it. 1t will make beautiful
waist to wear with your klack cloth
skirt. Rejoice, my dear, that you are
, living in the reign OF separate waists.
! For the girl with the limited income
.. they will always be thing of beauty
, and q joy forever. Take the gray BEN
galine and have it tucked across the
: front and across the top of the sleeves
have yoke Of heavy lace over white
satin, with high collar pushing itu
: an effective waist for the theatre. For
flannel waist, with red polka dots,
made plain, with no yoke and very
little fulness. And with this shirt
waist, my dear, remember there is nc
longer any excuse for parting of the
: ways between the skirt and shirt. You
must hook the skirt several inches
S above the waist line in the back, to
Q allow for the swag of the heavy cloth
$ and to help produce that slope down
ward from the back TO the front which
: is absolutely essential now to the we'll.
8 dressed woman.
i / have told you so much about long
Q WASTED effects that it seems superduou:
b to mention it, but, my dear, 1 noticed
Il your black skirt and white shirt waist
i, Now that was all wrong. 1t simpl,
! gave you at effect of pushing YOU
Il waist upward, rather than the long
j. downward effect you desire. You mus
! remember, Phyllis, that you must weal
Il belt as nearly matching the wais
!, as possible IL you want to look long
It WASTED. Be careful about the bel
9 always; smooth and high in the bncl
IS and pushed down as far as it will 60 il
IS the front, SO you can avoid that Quoei
Anne in the front and Mary Ann il
d the lack look, SO many women have.
II Oh, Phyllis. yon know that chinchill'
Il turban with the white feather ant
vt rhinestone buckle you saw today and s.
l. coveted? Well, here, take this oil
4 chinchilla collar ] found in the store
y room, give it 10 milliner who will
n for email sum, make you turban
l. Have her put Elack velvet fold mex
y to the face, to insure its becomiugness
j, put big choux OF white chiffon on th
= side, fasten 1t with rhinestone buckl
|. out Of which must be nodding a long
y stcmmed pink velvet rose. 1t will b
g superb, my dear, and give quite an al
/, of elegance.
" That black silk looks pretty shin
10 and bad, doesn't ity Don't despair
ID Take some ammonia and water an,
d carefully sponge it all over, bein
l. careful to wipe all the dust oil first.
" will come out like new. Now cut 1t il
tunic effect and put around the edge
that silk fringe we found in the store
room today. Have drop skirt wit
y bias ruflies of the silk, edged wit
" narrow jet, and the waist must have
~ bolero edged with the fringe and YES
a of pleated white chiffon. Your cola
IT can be made out of that turquoise blu
y velvet thnt was on last years hat, an
IL you will have stunning costume 10
Il calling.
m You must never despair, my dear, i
p reaclinp over those fine Paris fashions