Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1899-12-17
SHE WILL WEAR, A JACKET DIFF
ERENT FROM HER SKIRT AND
BOTH WILL BE BORDERED
WITH FUR-THIS is A BORDER
sEASON-vESTs, BOLEROs AND
PANELS ARE MADE SEPARATE
LIZ and PUT ON AS NEEDED.
CUT-AwAY COATS ARE IN
STYLE.

tdiiuE SOWu VI ludI udy was ~ SCfCiC
as to be unbecoming to any but the
ideal figure and so close fitting as to
require the hand of an artist modiste
TO fit it. None but men could fit the
tailor made gowns, for they required
that squareness of shoulder and abso-
Lutte fiatness of back which only the
man filter had learned.
But that day has changed. The
tailor made gown has lost its sim
plicity. 1t is just as well fitted, but
women have learned the art of doing
it; and there are becoming lines of
trimming and many folds to relieve the
fearfully hard outlines.
The tailor made, as you know, was
until very recently all of one color.
Now it has bright bits introduced in
the shape of folds, vests, beltings and
stocks.
But the tailor-made gown is still
characteristic and unmistakable. You
can tell it at glance by its set, its
finish, its trim look, the peculiar quail
ity which the English call at" and
which the French style "chic."
A wooden poplin with fiat ribs illus
trates this. 1t is of rich royal brown,
not lustrous, but very beautiful and
ubstantial-looking for winter. 1t is
one of those delightful new fabrics
which are suitable for street wear.
This one was made up in a skating
suit. The skirt was habit backed, open
ing in some invisible way, presum-
ably under the side seam where the
stitching looked heaviest.
Much Stitching.
Stitching, by the way, is one of the
distinctive features of a tailor-made
gown. 1t is not at all expensive but
requires the most exquisite exactness.
Your silk must be Of the sort that posi-
lively will not break or knot. The ten
sion of your machine must be set with
rather long stitch; and when you
once begin you must carry your stitch
ing straight along, without a break or
few. English tailors mark the goods
with chalk in a automatically
straight line, never basting it for fear
of catching the hastings stitches. They
use very lustrous silk thread exactly
matching the goods and they employ
never less than three rows of stitching
to mark hem or seam. Stitching is
almo the only trimming they use upon
the most severe Of their spring and fall
gowns, but they use it SO Dlentifully
that it looks like band Of goods.
Stitched bands are very popular and
very easy to do. You cut your goods
in strips and stitch them in many rows,
until you have stifily stitched band,
anywhere from half an inch to an inch
and half wide. This you use to strap
your seams and to turn your vests and
cuffs and collar. IT makes a beauti-
full trimming for the seams of your
bodice and is an excellent finish whe-
ever you choose to place it, Yards and
yards of these stitched bands are used
upon the skirts and waists of the new
tailor-made dresses.
The WOODEN poplin was trimmed
around the foot III skaters style. The
skaters skirt has usually heavy band
to give it weight and swing. 1t is al
most essential that it should be fin-
ished in this way or it will fill like
balloon and prove ungraceful.
There come fur cloths for this pur-
pose which are light and almost as
serviceable as fur; they are much less
expensive and hold their color very
we'll The astrachan cloth is an ex-
ample; then there is the dark coney
end the black boucle which comes as
fine and curly as astrachan. This ma
serial makes very pretty border and
ran be used in all widths. for skirt
trimmings, for cuff trimmings and for
the bands upon the lonk skating coat
Different Jackets
T'ar jacket the wooden pcplin may
nava Scotch mixed whipcord, which
is decidedly new. 1t looks like a mans
suiting. 1t is hecyy and crossed many
times with whipcords Of different col
ors. This makes very coed winter
coat to wear with the plain skirt.
Tailor-made jackets, by the way, do
not always match the skirt; they
sometimes merely harmonic.
The belt is an essential part Of the
talor-made suit. Take any half long
jacket and belt it with wide band of
velvet and you have almost the same
results as though you had bought an
expensive new belted jacket from
Paris.
A clever trick was practiced by a
New York girl who had more taste and
skill than money. She lives near Cen
trail Park and she is getting ready for
the skating season. In her wardrobe
was bodice of last years make with
cut basques She took this bodice and
fitted to the front OF it a broad pointed
plastron, of the shape known as
cuirass. 1t was broad at the neck and
pointed at the belt line. 1t was made