The times., 1899-11-19

wore also so sweet a little calling go"n
that followed her for a half dozen blocks
in order TO take in every detail. The
frOck was a soft satin surfaced cloth Of
deep rich mulberry color that is bound
sooner or later to be as popular as luette
blue once was. Her skirt was sit open
from hem 10 some distance above the
knees in front TO show an underdress of
beaver brown velvet picked out in tiny jel
worked figures. Her short waist opened
in front to show 1at vest and collar Of
the brown similarly decorated, and l can
assure You that this study in mulberry
brown and black is quite the most piquant
thing I've seen in TWO months. What went
with this, in her peary prey suede-elad
hands. was big mum Of the creamiest
grebe and her tOque had a crown of null
berry velvet. a brim Of one roll of gribe,
a dasning white plume fastened by some
invisible agent directly in the front OF her
crown and a mig bow of cream cOlored
antique velvet adjusted a little above the
brim to the left side
That hat. I'll wager. was her milliner's
supreme inspiration, and vet my fingers
positively ache 10 lay hold on some hoard
ed scraps in an old hat box and test my
abilities at a copy of the enviable little
UIide. Mine shall be black velvet in the
crown, band Of brown pheasant's breast
about the brim. brown plume up the mid
die and a bow of turquoise blue velvet to
one side. for a slavish copy of really good
hat is quite a despicable trick in my eyes
This gown and number Of other good
ones / saw this afternoon while on my
tour Of investigation, convinced me Of the
Importance of having my new calling suit
made up with an overskTt and adorned
literally with dome embroidered effects
] see embroidered cloths piled on every
counter. but a more persuasive ar
gument is that they are in actual wearing.
For what ! am going to have in the
way OF a visiting suit / got all my most
helpful suggestions from a captivating
French costume. worn by a blonde Boston
beauty at Mrs Whitelaw Reids committee
meeting. Hers was a spinach green Vene-
tian cloth The Overskirts was cut up in
scallops to show an underdTess of the same
goods and color, but picked out in small
sprays embroidered in cream silk. The
sleeves of her coat-waist and its fronts
were decorated TO match the underdress,
and the stitchings and touches of black
Persian lamb completed the harmonious
whole. I noticed that the pretty Bostonian
had discovered the virtues Of the rev
tooue, and that she wore her muh on
fine gold chain, strung al intervals with
tiny exquisitely colored agate marbles.
Some of them were round, some quite oval,
and some shaped like little beans.
1T grieves NE to the heart TO see how
woefully elaborate what the tailors call our
street gowns are becoming. Every woman
one sees is a geometric study in stitchings,
and if she lays the least claim to style her
skirt is slashed open somewhere 10 show
q plated underdress and her waist has
big rams horn revers that are stitched and
stitched again. OF course il is interesting.
graceful, and all that, but imagine trying
to hold all those willful pleats out Of the
dust and preserving a digniied uncon-
cerned expression al the same time Apro-
pos Of a recollection of a sweet gray cloth
frock Ny best friend has just come home
from her tailor's ] must warn you thai
buttons are cropping out everywhere, like
mushrooms after a summer shower Big
silver sleigh bell shaped buttons were what
the man of modes put on the skirt and
waist of my Fl. nd's frock and I must con-
fess they did lend a great deal of character
10 the costume"