The times., 1899-09-03

SANTA CLARA, DE CUBA, Aug. IL
This city Of the good Santa Clara. capital
Of the rich province of the same name,
with population Of over $1,000, is alto
gether the quaintest town of its size
have seen in Cuba Somewhat outside the
usual lines Of foreign travel, though on
she comparatively little-used central rail-
way, it has managed 10 retain much Of the
SAVIOR OF antiquity through nearly three
slow going centuries. Two hundred and
sixteen miles southeast from Havana and
midway between Sagua la Grande and
Trinidad. 81 lies in the very heart Of the
island. and the centre Of the richest sugar
producing district. Its narrow, stony
streets. lined with one-story houses painted
pink, purple grey, and blue, radiate from
a central plaza after the fashion OF Span
ish-America and ramble half way up the
low hills that environ the town. Our party
was met at the station by Captain Bean
and his lieutenants, and escorted UP town
with the honors Of war in an ambulance
drawn by mules OF all the humping
Earring, notwithstanding modes OF transit
invented by man, surely the Army ambu-
lance deserves the palm, and how the sick
aud wounded ever endure il passes civilian
comprehension. Rattle his bones, over
the stones, shouted Jolly, dark-eyed Cap
tain Bean at the TOP OF his voice, to be
heard above the clatier of hoofs and wheels,
as Miss Barton and her beyy of Red Cross
followers bumped heads together, all hold
ing on for dear life and striving with
braced heels and stiffened backs 20 retain
the perpendicular. Really" continued he;
sQuaring his broad shoulders, this is
healthy exercise, though rather rough on
beginners. AT any rate, 1t is the best cure
in the world for dyspepsia Just look at
ne, I have rattled on thirty pounds of
super1uous flesh since leaving Wisconsin
and never felt so well IN my life.
A Picturesque Hotel.
The great, rambling, one-storied Hotel
de Santa Clara, kept by a dark -browed
gentleman, late Of Seville, is charmingly
picturesque. with its several fower-hlled
patios. surrounded by sleeping rooms; its
Furnishings and manner of service as Span
fish as anything in Spain. The beautiful
brass bedsteads, with their elaborate drap-
cries OF satin and lace, are innocent Of
mattresses, the most being q thin guilt,
spread upon woven-wire springs, and
oftener only the sheet: for Cubans believe
that the less you have under you while
sleeping in their climate the better for
health. Carpets, Of course, there are none.
The tiny stand al the head OF the bed
upboids the inevitable candle in a quaint
stick; the sardrobe is big enough 10
sleep in, and the clay water jars, of SINH
lar pattern 10 those designated In the story
OF the Forty Thieves" excite the sin Of
coyetousnsss ia the most religious heart
The great windows. bulging over the street
and extending from floor TO ceiling, have
neither glass nor curtains, but the heavy
wooden shutters inside the bars are pro-
vIded with little hinged doors. for admit
ting & modicum of air when privacy is
essential. Cafe sofa, o con leche7" tcoffee
clear, or with milk2l is the first thing you
will hear, very early in the morning, as
fhe chamberlain presents himself for or
Gers. Be advised, whatever may be your