The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1899-01-09
A CHRISTMAS IN CUBA
I'm Cuban Homes-Posadas and the
Nacimicmto-Religio Fiestas in the
Valley of Trinidad.

Valley of Trinidad.
Especial Correspondence of the Journa
and Courier.)
Havana, Cuba, Dec. 22.-The Christ
mas Of which I write occurred foul
years ago; but as the customs of rura
Cuba have changed little in four cen
turtles, it is safe to say that similar
scenes will attend "the meeting of the
years" in thousands of homes through
out the island this season of 1888, and
as long as Spanish-Catholic ideas pre-
vail in Cuba.
The Christmas in question found us in
the valley of Trinidad-the very heart
and garden-spot Of the island, The
Tre-ne-d ad-es, as the valley, city and
bay Of the same name are called in local
parlance, have not figured at all in the
late war, and therefore are compare
lively unknown to the world at large;
but the time is at hand, w 18th American
occupation, when the region will be re-
cognized as one Of the most beautiful
and valuable in the western hemls-
phere. Trinidad city, faced by Trina
dad bay, lies at the sea-ward edge OF
Trinadad valley, in Santa Clara pro-
vince-almost exactly in the center of
the south shore Of the island. You
may reach it from Havana, going
around the eastern end of the island by
water; or by railway to Cienfuegos and
thence fifty miles by steamer; or as
did, by rail to Batabano, the southern
port Of Havana province, and then on
1eisurely cruise of a hundred miles or
more among innumerable Gays and is
lets. At any rate, you are certain to
approach the Trinidad by sea, as there
is no all-land route thereto from other
parts of the island. Very properly
Trinity bay has a trinity Of ports-the
mouths Of two rivers that empty into
the sea, and little inlet called Casilda.
The last-named port is generally used,
although it's water is SO shallow that
vessels must be loaded by means of
lighters, and put to sea as quickly as
possible, to avoid sticking fast ON the
sandy bottom. The landing place is
lined with extensive wharves and
warehouses, and there is a handsome
depot for the railway which runs due
north some thirty miles, connecting
half a dozen villages and bringing the
products of many rich plantations
down for shipment. Trinidad city,
three miles inland-or rather, upland
from Casilda, is reached by this road.
The picturesque town, which Don Diego
de Velasquez christened in honor of the
Holy Trinity as early as 1916, is one of
the oldest in Cuba, founded only year
later than Santiago, and nineteen years
after Santo Domingo, the Oldest on this
side of the world. Though so little is
heard nowadays of this region, it's histo-
ny is both stirring and romantic. Trim
idad bay was the fomous battle ground
of three British men-of-war against the
Spaniards under Don Luis Bassacourt,
In which the English We're defeated af-
ter three days fighting. Through two
long centuries Trinidad city was con-
tinually harrassed by pirates and buc-
cancers, nd more than once was en-
tirely destroyed-as in 1902 every house
was burned by the English corsair,
Grant. 1t is whispered that many
proud families now living in feudal
state in the vale of Trinidad owe their
riches to piratical grandfathers.
When piracy went out of fashion the
old sea-robbers turned respectable.
They bought vast plantations with their
ill-gotten gains, gave large sums to the
f., hca all
lars Of church and state. Jealous in all
good works-particularly in the matter
of bringing thieves to account
One who does not mind climbing finds
Trinidad a most delightful place. It's
low walled casas and palm shaded gar
dens cling to the side of Villa mountain,
six hundred feet above the bay. Its I'M
paved streets are narrow as the mar
rowest in Spanish America, and the
business quarter realizes Bellamy's
dream of a universal umbrella, having
stretched across from wall to
wall in uninterrupted series, affording
complete shelter from rain and sun
Most of the houses are of stone, topped |
with red tiles, and many are imposing, |
with succeed facades resembling |
carved marble and high-sounding titles
above the doors. They differ from the |
houses of Havana in not having divid- |
ing walls between the rooms, only the |
kitchen and sleeping apartments being
partitioned half way to the ceiling. The |
rest are series of open arches-vast, |
high eXpanses affording free circula-
ton of air and magnificent perspectives |
of marble floors, mirrored panels rich !
and antique furnishings.
1t was in one of these beautiful caSas,
perched on the brow of a hill overlook
ing the valley, that passed the event
full Christmas, the guest of Senior and |
Sonora Jacipto Carrazeo, who are
among the wealthiest landowners in
Cuba. Their estate, named "San Anto-
Mo-" was once the property of the Mar
uuis de Carrazeo, and his descendants
are as proud and exclusive as were ever
their titled ancestors in SPANS pal
miest days. The plantation, some
twenty miles in extent, includes cunt
less focks and herds, orange and cof-
fee groves, and sugar-cane billowing
yellowish- green in the sunshine far as
the eye can see.
The casa of solid stone, whose owners
boast that it was built two centuries
ago looks more like a medieval fort or
feudal castle than the residence of a
happy family in the dawn of the twen-
tieth century surrounded Nv scores of !