Daily new dominion. [volume] (Morgantown, W. Va.) 1897-1906, 1899-09-26


Our first stop was at Ingonish,
delightful little village, cuddled in at
the foot of deeply serrated mountains,
and protected by projecting piece of
land, on which is perehed a light
house; there is an inner harbor for
fishing boats, but as the channel is
not deep enough for large vessel, the
Harlaw anchored outside, and two
boats came out to land passengers and
receive freight. We were not surprls-
ed to hear that artists frequently visit
the little village. (Which struggles
away across the aforementioned prom
ontory, to another Ingonish, almost
equally pretty for from the deck of
the steamer we saw charming view
of a stretch of road turning into the
woods, with little rustic bridge over
stream which came dancing and
! sparkling into the waters of the bay
| Our next visit was to Neils Harbor,
where we were welcomed by several
small fishing boats, cleaning with
the scales OF too greedy Goldfish. We
discharged our cargo, and saw, with
| hungry satisfaction, that the steward
took in two large baskets, one full of
cod, the other of Holsters, while
smaller basket contained small white
objects, which proved to be Gods
tongues, great delicacy.
/ On leaving the cove, we rounded a
point, and caught our first glimpse of
Cape North. The scenery on this
North cost Of Cape Breton is wonder
fully grand, but perhaps the view
from near White Point, with Cape
Smoky standing out boldly over the
stern, and Cape North frowning at
our bow, is the most impressive.
White Point, in Aspey Bay, is an
other wee fishing village, and the last
point TO be touched in Cape Breton
As we lay anchored, waiting for the
little fleet of boats putting out to get
their supplies Of flour, salt, and other
necessaries, [ happened to remark on
the clearness of the water and to say
i that | had often longed to have a
swim from a vessel out in the deep
water, whereupon the Captain prompt
/ ly offered to let the gang plank down,
and we were soon diving around with
the pleasant conviction that the crabs
were far, far below the reach of our
| toes.
! On leaving the coast, we steered
almost due East for ST. Paul's Island,
and range beyond range OF mountains
became visible on the land we were
leaving, all thickly wooded, and man
tied in a purple haze. They are very
wild, and caribou and deer are plenti-
/ full; almost the only roads are the
mail carriers routes, but these are
fairly good for driving and the char
acter of the hospitable mountainous
is such that walking tour through
this, or, indeed, any other part of
/ Cape Breton is an extremely pleasant
progress, and one most interesting to
those fond Of studying local customs
and folklore.
But we have strayed SO far from the
Harlaw that we must perch on the
back of one of the friendly cheeping
seagulls, and fly over the forest and
the blue waves to our boat, putting
out TO sea towards ST. Pauls shadow
on the horizon. Ere long the steward
comes in search of us, and we descend
to do full justice to the above mem
toned Holsters, and to many other
good things, for who could fail to be
hungry with the smell of the sea in
the nostrils, and the cool, soft, bal
sam laden air filing the lungs? On
coming on deck, we found that we
were just anchoring off St. Pauls, an
/ island about two and half miles
long by half mile broad, with fine
backbone, backbone in fact,
of mountains. Here are two light
/ houses, one at either end of the island
and in winter the keepers, with a
| few other scattered families, form the
only population, a dreary life, when
sometimes ship does not visit
and then has TO force her way through
the drifting ice. But to-day the is
land is a thing of beauty, bathed in a
| flood OF golden sunset light. We were
seized with desire to stop off for a
week, and go scrambling over the
mountains. and fishing in the waters
which abound in all sorts of flnny
beasts, but almost before we knew,
! the anchor was lifted, and we were
steaming towards Cape Ray, st.
PauPs lights twinkling in the dis
lance far astern. The night was star
ry and clear when we turned in, but
soon after midnight warning foot
was heard, and the fog closed down SO
thick that instead of reaching Port au
Basques, or Channel, as it is general
| ly termed, about a. m, the siren
woke us at $780, and on coming on
deck, we found we were lying at the
wharf. As there was time for a lit