davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The times., 1899-12-10

the refined and elegant combination of
white and black which is second in popu-
larity only to the equally striking contrast
of black and white. The princesse founda-
tioH Of white tafIeta fits the figure snugly
and closes at the back with white silk lin
ing. This lining is entirely covered with
white mousseliue De sole pressed into tiny
pleats and having a crepe effect. Al the
front Of the bodice the pieated mOusseiine
is cut Out and bordered with a narrow trim
ming of black sable which accentuates
the dainty yoke and vest of tucked white
tulle with its insertions of fine white lace.
AS the foundation robe is decOllete this
fine yoke proves very flattering to the neck.
The high stock collar is boned at the back
and consists OF unlined black tulle finished
with q tiny ruching of white illusion which
ends in a fuzzy gathering d the back The
sleeves also are unlined and show the arm
between the meshes OF The fine white gui-
pure which constitutes the lower part and
the long pointed cuffs falling over the
hands.
The shoulder is covered with small puff
of white tulie over white taffeta and the
connection with the lower sleeve is hidden
by band of crimped black tulle finishing
with a graceful butterfly bow of the same
material. The most attractive part Of this
beautiful toilette. however, is the long
loose redingote OF fine white guipure lace
Ike that OF the sleeves. 1t is cut with
seams which are Joined so artfully that no
trace is evident and is made independent
Of the underdress and enfolds the Whole
The times., 1899-12-10
(aostar-PIsls)

figure at the back and sides while reach
ing to the hem of the moderate train. \
band of black sable wider than that on the
corsage borders the lace overdress and a
most artistic finish is accomplished by the
folded belt OF crimped black silk tulle and
the large butterfly bows which are placed
on the fur al the left side Of the bodice.
Below the knees a scarf of the same black
tulle runs diagonally across from one side
of the overdress TO the other and ends at
the left side with large bow and long
ends The coiffure is adorned with black
tuue bow similar TO those on the gown
and surrounding an agraffe of diamonds
In spite of the clamor about the tight
skirt being passe We encounter it every
where I'm new variations. of which the box
pleat at the back is one. In fact, the cling
ing skirt is so closely nodded TO the form
denim it as indecent or admire it as artis-
tic But whether condemned or admired,
il remains Fashions choice and is there
fore worn. Even draperies have not real
lied the expected favor; tunicS and over
dresses are worn but the newest street
skirts of cloth are tight and long and self
/ trimmed. stitchings and strappings being
favorite modes. The latest variety OF the
genus tailor made is cut circular and
fitted closely to the figure by means Of a
series of darts which extend from the hip
line to below the knees, thus allowing q
plain tight yoke and plain flare The
darts are concealed by means Of strap
pings of the same cloth.
FELIX FOURNERY.
The times., 1899-12-10
Copyright, 1899, by S, N, Baldwin.

PARIS. Nov. 27-Ever since the
object OF clothes evolved from
the primevaI desire to cover The body
and shield it from the inclemeucies OF the
atmospheric temperature to a desire to
beautffy and become, as it We're, a frame
to beft that chef d'oeuvre OF Nature the
human body. we have a soft spot in our
hearts for those flowing draperies which
enhanced the beauty OF our first civilized
ancestors. The old Greeks knew well the
art Of dress. and their maids and matrOHs
realized the enchautment which turks in
forms sheathed in classic folds and unim-
peded by tight dress. True, stays were in
their infancy even then, but they were
worn as support only. until, many cen
turies later French fashion developed
them into iron clad armOrs compressing
the soft tissues of the female body into a
shape which defed all lines Of beauty, and
il was not until great moral and physi-
cal revolution clarified the social atmos-
phere that a Renaissance" in dress was
brought about In modern times when
tickle Fashion changes at least every half
year, the tea gown alone is unaffected by
ieeting modes and while adapting itself
TO its own particular needs and 10 the per
sonaI taste OF the wearer il reflects the
antique draperies and becomes the piece
de resistance" in the wardrobe Of the wo-
man of leisure and fashion.
Robert, who eNcels i'm creations of this
sort. is the author OF the artistic gown de
picted here. He has not left fashion en-
tirely out Of the question, but makes use OF
The times., 1899-12-10
A PASSION FOR PEWTER.
Novel Christmas Gifts Are Made of
This Metal.


There is a yeritabie passion for pewter
in Paris just now; pewter made into all the
knick- -knackery that we have for the past
few years been seeing in silver. 1t is even
beginning 10 be much in evidence in this
country. and triies made of il will un-
doubtedly be among the novel and accept
able gifts at Christmas. There is about
pewter softness and piability which
makes it a fascinating material with which
to model and therefore besides its use for
small pieces. artists in Paris are working
out some OF their best designs in it. IN
fact reduced figures from life and after the
antique are being exhibited along with
those OF bronze and plaster. The one il
pewter that received honorable mention at
The last salon was called The Creole" " a
charmingly sympathetic bit and one that
would grace any drawing room.
Smaller pieces happily within reach OF
many are bonbouieres trays, and ash re-
ceivers, mugs plates, and small figures
All of these are presented in inuumerabe
shapes and designs. The greater number
OF them are modelled after antique designs
the huer-de-l lis of the Bourbon house be-
ing one Of the most popular. The dainty
wreathcs and hanging baskets Of flowers
and the double Is OF Louis Nv are also
much seen.
Collectors of mugs are being made
happy by this revival of The use of pewter,
and little short of madness is about re-
garding the number and rarity of those
seen al informal evening parties or at 9TH
er times decorating the side walls OF din
| tug-rooms The plates also are mostly
seen as wall decorations and produce a
/ stunning effect when well hung against a
/ brilliant background
/ 1t is not difficult TO keep these pewter
ornaments clean a good rubbing with
! chamois every fortnight is all that is nee
| essary. 1t is not desirable for them to
have the shining lustre of silver; the tones
1 of pewter should be soft and grey.
For a novel holiday gift hardly anything
newer or Of more interest can be recon-
mended than a pewter bonboniere. As
is true Of all small boxes their usefulness
is very great There is always room fol-
one more. On the writing desk or bureau
they hold innumerable varieties of tribes
and where it is now customary TO place
them instead of as formerly in the poke
filled with sweets.
The times., 1899-12-10

ries. Captain Marryat. She was his sixth
daughter, and showed quite early in life
a great taste for books. She was married
at the early age of sixteen 10 Captain Ross
Church. of the Madras Stan Corps. and her
first novel. Loves Conflict was pub
lfshed as long ago as 1866. Miss MarTyar
took an intense interest i'm the subject Of
Spiritualism wrote a life of her father, and
was at one time well thought Of as a com
edy actress and an entertainer. touring he
British provinces and America with her
own company. She was married "a second
time to Col Francis Lean.
The times., 1899-12-10

is an nderliuiBg. heavily boned This is
quite narrow al first but in front il reaches
from hc bust 70 some six inches below the
waistllne ana closes with hooks and eyes
set closely togetbeI u is simply an elab-
crate kind OF what the dressmakcrs call
corset piece says the New YORK Tribune.
The gowns themselves look lovely on the
slender models who display them. The
girls carry themselves well and the lines
In the back are simply perfect. The prie
charged for an ordinary evening ffock mar
on this principle is 5000 Anyone who has
a uractical knowledge of the making and
fitting Of gowns VIII realiz that this is not
an ey0rbstaEt price for the skill, knowl-
edge and work involved in making a per-
feet gown without the aid Of hitting over
stavs For this reason one wonders why
the dressmaBers who are responsible for
the present fad are SO jealous of what they
term their invention, for, after all, this
gown can be made only by couturiere Of
the first order.
n represents the height OF extravaganza
from two points OF view-that OF the dress
maker and that of the customer. The first
stakes her raputatiou on it, and the average
client is far more difficult 20 III than the
models chosen for that purpose. On thl
4 other hand the customer spends a eOoa
/ sum OF money on sons thing that may not
I become her and, If it does. is not going
( 10 stand many wearings. These gowns
/ if should be understood are as light Us
any corset One pretcnsiOu is thai they
reduce The actual size Of ths figure ant
/ viii no, stand The strain Of much use
! They compress the figure into The smalies
! possible graceful shape. and they admit o.
\ no IounEinE
For the greet majority Of women the
! corset is practical. sensible, and bealthfu
/ garment This much is generally conceded
/ by all modern authorities. This prezen
! rad for 81 can hardly be termed more thar
that. Is only possible Tor people who spen,
large sums on their clothes For certain
figures. and especially ia the case OF even
ing gowns. the corsetless toilet may be per
| fecsion. but there is little chance that
car or VIII be generally accepted.
The times., 1899-12-10
A woMAN,s INVENTION.
IL IS Woven BnndaEe for Sprains
nnd Eractures.


The latest invention tending to dimin-
ish the suffering Of humanity is that Of
Mrs. Therese Etcksen, a German lady of
considerable energy and ingenuity. 1t is
nothing more nor less than a woven band
age for the use of those who have broken
or sprained a limb It is approved by
many physicians because it conforms so
perfectly to the shape Of the limb, support
ing it at all points and at the same time
is not so stin as the usual splints or
wrapped bandages. II addition, its meshes
permit the free circulation Of the
air and in this it contributes
to the speedy healing OF the
Injured member The support
afforded by this naturally elastic band
age is such that it obviates the necessity
of remaining in bed with some injuries
which were thought heretofore to require
such confinement It is made OF strong
heavy wool or in some cases Of heavy
fIaX-coTd.
Mrs Eicksen regards her invention not
ouiv as q benefit to The injured but is also
irving 10 Introduce the knitting Of these
bandages as "A new occupation for womea,
esnecialIv for the blind or decrepit who can
NOT engage in more active pursuits. She
has not patented her bandage, but is now
travelling All through Germany teaching
everyone who wishes 10 learn how TO knit
the bandages properly. There is special
stitch required so as to make them both
strong and elastic, and the value OF the in
ventiou is being more and more appreciated
/ daily Tne inventor suggests that her
( banddges Will also prove seTyiaeable as
! srrengrheuers OF the wrists for tennis
players as we'll as belts for mountain
/ climbers being light and strong, and far
better than the stIff leather belts usua ly
worn For bicycle riders. too. VINO wish
| 10 have free use OF their bodies, and al
| The same time not look "dowdy' she sug-
! gests waists woven IN this way The ban
/ dage has been used with great success by
/ German physicians in cases Of broken
! arms and legs of men, women. children,
and even OF animals, for which it is nota-
| bly, difficult to find good splint That Will
stay in place This bandage stays exactly
| where il is put and this is one OF its great
advantages. It might be good idea for
| some American woman who Is IN Germany
| TO take a few lessons in this bandage-
knitting that she might teach il over here
The times., 1899-12-10
1 RoNnI Photoernnhcr.

The Princess of Wales is photographer
OF more than ordinary ability. She and her
daughters keep their kodaks busily employ
ed on every possible occasion, and were the
roval portfolio Of views be thrown open tC
public view. the biographical work OF ouI
future historians and writer's would be sub
tontiaIlv assisted and, one ventures 10
think. uniquely benefited At the time OF
Prince Charles of Denmarks visit 60 Eng
land before his second marriage Princess
Maud's camera was kept continually busy.
The times., 1899-12-10
The Paris Fixette.

The dangerous long hat pins are be-
ing superseded in Paris by two little four
pronged forks which they call fiXettes-
The prongs of the forks slide in the guide
BIB. These guides are securely sewn 10
the edge of the inside of the hat, one on
each side. Before placing the hat ON the
head the fxettes are drawn out 10 their
fullest extent and when the nat IS in po-
sition they are pushed in. fastening IN the
hair They give greater stability than me
old fashioned pin. and are free from the
many dangers and objections of the latter.
The times., 1899-12-10

and knots OF more richly hued pink satin
and with a big pink chiffon fan and els
ter Of roseate flowers in my hair. If I don't
help 10 strengthen the cause OF that co or
this season then my calculations viii be
sadly upset"
-Of which there is not the least Xix IL
hood. added the hostess comforting Y. as
she rang for the butler 10 open the door
for her departing guests.
The times., 1899-12-10
Rings md GInNes.

News comes-and from Paris-that we
are supposed to wear our rings outside our
gloves. But the fashion is a vulgar one.
and will be adopted by none but eXtrem-
lists There is some excuse for its exist
cnce in France, however for in France
women still persist in wearing tight-tit-
ting gloves. which in America and England
are considered the worst form.
The times., 1899-12-10
The &c 1Iiss NInrrrnt.

The late Florence Marryat was interest
ing, not only for her own achievements as
a novelist and an actress, but also as a
link with the literary past as the daughter
of our most classical of writer of sea sto-
The times., 1899-12-10
AWAY WITH STAYS.

Advanced Dressn,akcrs Are saying
That CorsctS Must Go.
The dressmaRors who advance The new
co7seHess gowns put on the airs OF being
responsible for d great discovery. and are
none too anxious 10 have their models in
vestig3ted by the fashion writer's. but it is
safe TO state that there is no astonishing
invention concealed in these costumes.
Attached 20 The gown from the back seam
The times., 1899-12-10
WHERE STUDENTS SlARVB
The Futile Struggle Made by Wom-
en- for Arts Sake.

Nine Nmrricnn Girls Have zone
Graz, in the Latin Quarter Of Paris
From Hunger and Overwork-The
Majority There Now Are Poor and
NanS uI-Sometimes They succeed.
The times., 1899-12-10
some HIGH-PRICBO HATS
They Are Made of Sable and Other
Expensive FurS

Pink l. an Epidemic ia sartoriaI Cir
cIes This Sen~on-BIacI, Evening
Return Of the BoIero-Thc Fronts
Pouch just a. Much a. Ever.
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1899-08-13
Marriage In Princess Anne.

Tho Eastern Shore Episcopal Chapel,
near Oceana, Princess Anne county,
was the scene OF u brilliant nuptial
event at 6 o'clock last Wednesday even
ing. the contracting parties being Mr..
Solomon Keeling Hunter. son OF Thos.
G. Hunter. Esq, and Miss Mary Ar
linSton james. daughter OF Mr.. Hunter
James, all OF Princess Anne county
The church was tastefully decorated
with wild flowers and evergreen and IL
Illuminated with candles in honor OF the
suspicious occasion.
Miss Sallic James sister OF the bride,
was maid Of honor.
Mr.. Jonathan Hunter, Jr, brother OF
the groom. acted us best man. Miss
Florence White was bridesmaid. Mr..
Ernest Land groomsman and Messrs.
VIM. II. and j. Paul Woodhouse were
the ushcrs. The bride and groom and
their attendants were elegantly cos
tuned.
The wedding party entered the sacred
edliice to the sweet strains OF Mendel-
shons march oNquisitely played on the
organ by Miss Marie White. on mr.
irving in front of the chanccl they were
met by the officiating minister. Rev. w.
II. Savage. rector OF the church. by
whom they were united in the bonds
of holy wedlock.
y reception and sumptuous supper
followed at the residence of Mr.. and
Mrs. Thos. c. Hunter. the home OF the
newly married couple. the guests being
the bridal party and near neighbors.
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1899-08-13
ABSEhTEES RETURN.
THE LOUISE BROUGHT MANY TO
NORFOLK LAST NIGHT.

The raising of the quarantine against
Newport News. Old Point and Hamp
ton tells the story why so many peo-
pie were in Norfolk last night. Reieas-
ed from Il quarantine OF THIRTEEN days,
the people of Newport News, Old Point
and Hampton poured into the city. The
steamer Louise, Of the Chesapeake and
Ohio railway. brought over Il tremen-
dous crowd. Due at her wharf at 7:05
last night. she did not arrive until
1856 o'clock the delay being caused by
the heavy traffic. Many of the people
who came over carried bags such as
are used by the boys of Uncle Sans
navy: others carried satchcls and
bundles: some walked; soma rode,
while some talked of their troubles for
the last two weeks in Il way that would
cause an end man in Il minstrel COM
pany TO learn new jokes. or give Il
traEedian the opportunity to bring
tears TO the eyes of his audience.
There were many people at the
wharves to meet the returning absen-
tees. Some were strangers, others wer o
we'll known and were receiving the
shakes" of their friends.
One of the first things one of she
new arrivals did was to 70 to the post
office and got his mail. When he came
out he had both hands full and. meet
ing a friend. was asked what he was
doing with so much mail. ooh" he
'''''' ii''Nc ptch 'iVStu III, oNiIti
out. for two weeks and have just re-
turned from Newport News not able
to breathe without n permit from the
Board of Health"
"Wen. you didn't get tho yellow fc-
Yer. did you?' asked his companion.
mo" he said. II didn't get the vel
low fever. but came near turning
yellow from fright"
Many amusing incidents marked tho
advent of tho homo coming. and all
expressed Il hope that the next time
contagious disease broke out anywhere
they would be ut home ut tho time. The
officials of tho different steamboat and
railroad lines oxpeCt large increase
in business now since all ports are open
to Norfolk.
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1899-08-13
Anti.Imperiattst uuIIcttn.

It is proposed by the labor leagues
TO make the ensuing Labor Day the oc-
casion for a great demonstration
against the Tmperialist policy.
An Ant-Imperialist League has been
formed a Portland. Oregon. during the
past week. There are now leagues in
Washington. Chicago Boston, New
York, Detroit. san Francisco. Cincn-
natl. and many smaller cities and
towns.
An Anti-Impcriaiist mass meeting IS
10 be held in Providence. II. L.. about
the LIST of September.
An Anti-Imperialist Irish American
meeting is to be held at Amory Grove,
Boston. August 17th.
The Anti-Imperialist League has just
published The Present Crisis" by E.0-
win d. Mead. and the Conquest OF the
United states BY Spain" by Prof. W.
q. sumner.
During the past week the demand
Missouri FOR our literat tire. in behalf of
readers and volunteer distributors, has
exceeded fifty thousand pamphlets,
leaflets and broadsides.
y very large number of the returned
soldiers from the Washington and
oregon regiments have asked for ma
terial in order that they may become
d.sseminators OF the Anti-Imperialist
doctrine.
Twelve OF the most important West
ern German newspapers have asked for
copies of our German leaflets to fold
and distribute in their issues
ERVlNCi WINSLOW.
August 10, 1899 Secretary.
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1899-08-13
LABOR DAY.
MESSRS. HARRY LLOYD. W. W
FAIRLESS AND C. c. WILLIAMS
SPEAK

The indications point to the most
successful Labor Day celebration this
year in the history of the labor organ
izations of Virginia. The committees
entrusted with the work Of preparation
are leaving no stone unturncd and have
already accomplished a great deal. But
much remains 10 he done.
1t is not doubted that our business
men generally Will render such assist
ancc as may he asked OF them. They
have responded literally in years past.
ard the committees are confident that
they will contribute literally toward
making september 18th A red letter day
in labor circles.
y letter of acceptance has been re-
ceived from Mr.. Harry Lloyd. of Bos-
ton, who was invited TO make one of
the principal addresses OF the day. Mr..
w. II. Fairless and Mr.. 9. c. Williams.
OF Portsmouth. have also accepted in-
vitations to make addresses.
The Labor-Day souvenir program Is
in the hands of the printer. and will
soon be out of the press. 1t will he one
OF the best that the Central Labor
Union has ever got up. Beautiful
souvenir badges arc being prepared to
be worn on Labor Day.
Prof. Ward. physical director OF tho
Y. NJ. c. A. Will in Il few days assign
the prizes. numbering about sixty. Ia
the various athletic events. These
prizes Will be placed on exhibition in
a few days
Virginian-pilot. (Norfolk, Va.) 1898-1911, 1899-08-13
A FAIR SPECIM EN-.
A VAUDEVILLE ACTORS FALSE
STATEMENTS IN NEW YORK
CLIPPER


AS n sample OF the falschoods that
are being circulated by ueonlo who
have Lao, ;,o,,,..;-,
c' ny '"c re-
cent quarantine regulations, the fol-
lowing from the New York Clipper OF
August 10Th. is entitled Ia n nrcmium.
~, ,,i,.,
~" ->'D'o "'''cs' nave just pass
ca through Il most unpleasant eNper-
fence in the yellow fever district of
Virginia. | arrived from Chicago and
opened at Ocean View mear Norfolk
Monday afternoon. July @lst. Was set
"u"', i"i " i.ens'.nt week az me
sb,.,o,od ,r',o.,,,,S 'io.tH "vIc
;,n;,,o V ,.o, "v'u'H mo m''S ehliy D.!
,o,, ~ ~ 80 . s,i." ieIyr su9-
i,oforo ,n,, S u''"1' , ~. W ny va!
Nn,vs ,yhich ,,,,,., ,S,.,,,,,i,,, ~ i'p'
ion~ ,r,,'d.r,;1 III i',t ~, NJ Jay
runrdod b,. tv.o onirn,.,, ,,,i'' III. ~ !;
,nn tn sncal, 10 30 n' ,,o I'i'uN v''
served in an on,t,. ..,.ao+ go - :
Ivoe s,orcd nj fron, - di.,on "n ',.,
mingled rnriosi.v ava ,i,v ~. .,l,a 49,,
WYE NJ, Zen '',i ~ -! '"c ni
man did "I NV ci ,,, III me ai' e.,
onirials az Tho bo,it,, h"nru , ~ Wv, ~.
snnd mo 10 ,ha go. ho,,ea 'v ,r,, ~
Tho timely inforynn,ion ~ n, n,""s =.
Sisson Wa,ter C:orrv and o,I'ars 4.
vne corc,,,dod 49,, r sta,,,a ~ ,, :,
iiist ono bour to rct orr or town -, -.
needless, ia say tbot thcrn WIS - ,.or,.
moi finish, to nv np~nrcmo,,t ;u:..
,nonorod 10 c,trh tho onl,. tr,i, an, 80
town nj 7.30 thot niob, ma n,ri,.a1 ~,
Richmond carly ncvt morninc NJ,
nov. man ,bat.ncaltS 20 NO. -, go,
viii he Missed" ''"
II is due IN Tho C,linncr which 70 roo
cgnized MS n usuollv very cornfi,l ana
reliable iournai IN sto,c ,ho, III. "'i ~