The citizen. (Frederick City, Md.) 1895-1923, 1899-12-08
NEW YORK FASHIONS
~ COME HIGH FOR THOSE
1nN ,,uo MUST HAVE THEM.

=. cowns-Lest Economy to
Buy Good Materials-wise Employ
~ Of odds and Ends-The Mar
row Turnover Collars
or+.of.town friend sent me a
al from a magazine, which stat
lltbtn47 tailormade suits might be
' for s. up. She enclosed SIS, and
.au 10 directions IS to cut, color, ma
Dll s, orc. knew before started
ieIl"i met what wild goose chase l
op ns destined for, but she was dear
i was and | resolved to take nothing
ioi 5s.asted two whole days, spent two
n,rs in carfare and luncheon, lost
aui, thence. aroused the ire of divers
li ,.swomen because l tried to get a
s ..Iisb wellmade gown for the
!? roy found at last the exact copy
~ Di' the cut She sent me, and the price
was $40. 49,, ,,nno;n. - +ho -,
e ,.aartment stores are bargains only
u ui the purchaser can remodel the
Vim, INF that is slightly behind the
ss.,n and adapt it to her needs. The
orborbitant prices asked for some
e"'rns and coats often apparently
Fave no cause for being. 1t may be
dne TO the special cut, the use of an
eycrsiye maleriG. or an unusual
orount of handWurk that often dou-
Mas the actual cCst of the garment.
rasbionable women who order their
GOWNS from Paris, or can buy the lat
sst imuortations, have already dis
corded a fashion by the time the great
feminine world is wearing it on the
street so the woman who is not par
ticular as to the latest mode can often
nick ND beautiful costumes at a low
cost but they cannot always be had
BY seeking.
Except for feeting styles, it pays to
Inv good materials and well-made
Trimmings. One clever woman, who
does most of her own dressmaking
and makes her hats says she is very
careful tC buy the best her purse af-
fops. ana the moment the trimming
becomes out of date she rips it Off and
laws it aside, knowing that in seven
years il will be III style again She
has an ermine collar on her new
tailorm3de suit that was a Christmas
present When she was nine years old,
and a White evening waist adorned
with silk fringe that decorated her
CoMeucement gown years ago.
Iuerer give away finery,' she says.
Tf a friend needs anything that l
have for a certain purpose, am gen.
erous, but indiscriminate giving is
uOgtl nothing and never appreciated"
iu hats are especially fashionable,
Gra lu lave any scraps of fur, you
can, if you are careful, make a toque
yourself, while sable and chincnilla
ait inc fayOliCes, other furs make
pretty combinations. To cut fur, lay
it face downward on a board and cut
On the skin side with a sharp knife.
Sew IL overland on the wrong side
and smooth the seam with the fingers.
The very narrow turn over white
collars can easily be made at home.
These are made of sheerest cambria,
Fawn or null with the finest hand
embroidery or edged with real lace.
Dainty embroidered handkerchiefs are
used for this purpose or even the
sheer hemstitched ones. These turned
over collars are slipped into a band
the width Of an ordinary stock collar,
and this band is sufficiently stiff to
give support 10 the tie that is worn.
4 vivid contrast 10 the animal ScarfS
and bOas seen at a recent festival was
q boa made entirely of violets. An
other remarkable specimen in neck
wear is a very short chiffon cape and
long ends made of chenille fringe and
sable fur.
Silks, gauzes and velvets are all
painted by hand and used as trim
mins. Of course, the work must be
eXquisitely done, for there is nothing
more ugly than crude painting on a
handsome gown, and even when well
done, must be used most sparingly.
The aim of dressmakers is to make
the waist appear as long as possible,
and belts, when worn, should be quite
inconspicuous. On many of the cloth
gowns the waists are put over the
Skirt and then the finish is the mar
rowest possible bias band with ma
chine stitching, the ends of which
cross in front or at the back with hook
and eye.
Fancy muffs are to be the style,
and all the good costumes now have
mutls made especially for them They
are very small affairs, these fancy
mutfs, but the materials of which they
are composed cost a large price. Lace
and fur are combined in a most charm
ing haphaZard way, with an utter dis
regard as to the value of the material.
4 made entirely of lace will have
band Of sable around the centre and
Tie six or eight sable tails tied in
front with knot of ribbon and occa-
slonally bunch OF very fine artificial
movers. None of these muffs are large,
ana apparently are in contrast to the
large nuns OF fur that are so smart
wan the tailor gowns. Bear fur, the
Dlack, the gray and the cinnamon
Dear mutts with long boas to match,
are considered particularly desirable
lhls year, and VIXEN woman is tall
enough to wear them without looking
like a bear cub herself, the effect is
certainly very good. Sable and mink
are as popular as ever, while chin
ehilla is used as commonly as though
I We're torchon lace.
The princesse style of dress is be-
coming more and more fashionable, as
more and more dressmakers are learn
ng how to turn out a good-looking
'own made in this style. A garment
hat used to be called the polonaise is
more often seen than whole prin-
Jesse gown, although it is called by
he latter name. 1t is long, tight-tit-
ing coat worn over quite long skirt
made of the same material, and
iounce of the underskirt shows below
he coat. This coat fastens at the
eft side, or in the front, and, as a
'ule, whatever trimming there is is
out on the upper part of the waist and