The times., 1899-11-05

in habits Of beggaTy become chronic with
the rising generation. According 10 Span
ish custom, the ground floor Of the palace
is given up to quarters for soldiers, ser
wants, and police, Offices and storerOoms.
stables and kitchens while upstairs
serves as the Official residence of the gov
ernor Of the province. You 60 up a wide
fight OF stone steps, in deep hOllows worn
by the passing feet of two or three cen
turies-through dim anteroom, bare of
everything but a secretary's desk and
couple Of sentinels pacing to and fro, and
presently find yourself in an enormous
sala, or rather feel yourself lost in the
vast, echoing expanse. A liveried Aunky,
with a pistol ostentatously protruding
from his hip pocket and machete dangling
at his heels, meets you at the door and
conducts you across the desert of marble
flooring TO the central oasis Of Turkish
rug. upon which are cane b0ttOmed chairs
and sofas, set yis-a-vis around a marble
topped table laden with the china vases,
glass dogs and toy saints so dear to the
Latin heart; and in a moment you are eX-
changing the glad hand with as true and
courteous a gentleman as any Of his titled
predecessors. This shabby "palacio" is not
without its tragic. as well as brilliant so
cial history The beauty and ChiyalTy Of
twenty generations have danced AMI Co
quetted under the crystal chandeliers of
this vast sala, when to the volUptuous
music Of the danza soft eyes looked love
TO eyes that spake again Within these
moldy walls decisions have been reached
which sent numbered enemies of Spain
TO Imprisonment and death; men high in
. Government favor today have found them
selves tomorrow IN the grim fortress Of
san Seyerino, and a few hours later kneel-
ing with their backs TO the firing squad.
The Chapel Of Montscrrat.
Next, while the day is young, the visitor
would better drive up the hills to the
historic old chapel Of Montserrat, perched
on a nearby spur. overlooking the far
famed Yumuri Nalley-"Vale of Paradise" ,"
II is the usual Calvary of all old towns in
Spanish America, up whose rugged via
( Doloroso peuitents 80 once a year on their
knees, and thus obtain absolution for all
the sins committed in the other 364 days.
Il is d quaint structure of time meIlowed
stone, surmouBted by an iron cross and
! surrounded by once-high walls Of masonry,
{ Ia which, two years ago, the Spanish sol
+ diers knocked out embrasures. Among
other vandal acts OF those troubled days
was the cutting down for frewood of
twenty splendid oaks which formerly
/ shaded the enclosure, brought when baby
! trees from the BaIeaTic Islands. The in
/ terror is bare and cheerless as a Calvary
should be filled with gTewsOme represen-
tations OF the Saviour's pain The most
interesting things are a mighty collection
OF "milagros In gold, silver, bone, and
wood entirely covering one wall; and a
virgin, black as the haclmeyed ace Of
spades, whose altar is heaped with shells,
coral. and other marine growths indicating
/ that she is the special patron OF seafaring
people The image is of wood rather squat
and square, with face and hands Of inky
/ blackness and the incongruous features OF
I blue eyes and a blonde wig. The word
milagro means miracle, and each symbol
! denotes sOlidihed prayers for divine inter
/ position I'm the devotee's behalf. According
/ 10 Cuban belief no wish of the heart is
! too Insignificant or purely personal TO be
brought before the -sympathizng
! mother in the form OF a small image
/ blessed by the priest and hung before her
! shrine. Though the collection embraces
! some queer things the spectator feels no
/ inclination to smile at the simple faith.
/ but rather stands abashed at his own lack
( Of it. There are miniature legs and arms
! without number. cTutches trusses, even
/ ears, noses, moustaches, sets OF teeth,
breasts with cancers in them. little men
4 and women, and babies galore. Every
/ imaginable disease and indrmity is por-
/ trayed, from a sabre-cut 10 a snake bite,
! from Ecrofula sores to elephantiasis.
| Thousands who came on crutches and
| now walk on perfect legs attribute their
| recovery to the Virgins notice of their
| blessed milagro; and the long childless
mother presses her baby TO her breast, un-
doubling that, like Sarah Of old. she owes