New-York tribune., 1899-07-23
ROME IN SUMMER.
THE TOURISTS HAVING VANISHED, THE CITY
ASSERTS HERSELF.

Rome correspondence OF The London Globe
Those who only visit Rome in winter. or in
April have not realized the full charms OF the
CITY Tor IN those seasons it owes its appearances
OF lie chiefly to the "fOresteri" The people
themselves have not yet issued from their shells,
their houses are still their refuge. where they
NOPE or laze shrunken with cold or else ach-
ing with "scirocco," which does not. a rule,
aitect the foreigner until he has resided here
for some time
But now that the tourists have vanished back
to their various fashionable centres Rome as
SertS herself. The "jOie de Vvre" testifes itself
all through her streets. The air blows fresh and
sweet from the Towering "campagna" under the
morning sun Faces look happy the step seems
lighter than usual eyes brighter. and cool
COlOrcd costumes Dredominate
The middle hours Of the day are, Of course. too
hot and they are passed indoors over the fam
Ay meal, the ciesta, etc. After o'clock the
streets have developed a shady side 10 some
purpose, and they therefore become pOpulOus
once more, this time rather with fashionable
than Industrial folk, and one pauses a moment
perhaps 70 reflect how much beauty, male and
female. has frequented this "COrsO' since the
days Of Hannibal. for it was originally the Via
Flamiuia." or. rather. il still IS such. although.
owing ID the vandalism. not Of the real Nandals
and GOths and Normans but Of the Popes and
their "nephews," it has lost the triumphal
arches which formerly spanned II and divided
70 into living measured paragraphs. For yOnder
where that young officer in blue and silver is
twisting his mUstachos. While a group Of black
and white nuns passes him, stood, until 100,
the drCu OF M1ICL, ALreluS ana LuC4uS -f4-.
DESTROYED then by Alexander VII (ChigU merely
because ii interfere1 with his horse races at
EastertIde.
Various. indeed are the figures one sees dur
ing a wander through the delightful network Of
these streets In the morning there IS less
crOwding. so that they stand out more vividly.
At the corners here and there stand picturesque
country women. with white folded headcloths,
selling wild Strawberries which scent the fresh
air or Weighing out cherries in old fashioned
scales and chattering 20 their customers all inc
time Presently various other interesting nS-
uras pass by-a black and white monk. wearing
a red cross upon his habit, going about the
business OF his C0nvent-a vender OF lemon
water the favorite drink Of the lower classes
u Rome in summer, with "a painted wagon ana
all the necessary Paraphernalia, glasses. taps
s7uaezers ETC. calling cool drinks. coo!
drinks" And stepping up into another Level
and another street one passes by dark door
ways which frame the usual dark woman busy
knitting and at he same time experimenting
huge baskets Of eggs for sale, or green cucuin-
bers and tomatoes harng red
But enough Of people, Peep into this court or
my lords palazzO II Is q veritahle me peri
styliun, as Of old. with a large white marble
fountain in its centre. whose singing waters
drop from three twisted dolphins and overflow
glittaring into a CapaciOuS basin, from Which
suring up luscious ciumps Of Towering arum
All around Il wind neat formal gravel paths.
which lead round palms and deOdaras and OLE
anders Upon everything the sun Is now
blazing while up above in the blue air the sWaI-
lows and sWifts are Whrling IN wild. HAPPY
flights How cool and fragrant It will be when
evening comes!