The record-union., 1899-01-01

There Is no dressy wardrobe COM
plete this season without at least one
handsome gown of black silk-dotted
net, mousseline de sole, velvet, or sat
in-striped etamine or plain Brussels
net over a satin or silk slip. Some OF
the latest and prettiest are made with
the lace or net designs outlined with
very narrow babysatin ribbon, gath
cred slightly, and put on as one would
follow a pattern in braidwork
Gowns for debutantes are exception
ally chic, graceful and beautiful this
winter, and many Of these prepared Tor
various entertainments during the hol1-
DAYS are narvels or artistic beauty.
There is less of exaggeration than
there was at this time last year, while
at the same time there are In all
daintiness and simple elaboration
which good taste alone can bestow.
Toilets for debutantes' afternoon re-
ceptions are compromise between the
very ornate full-dress gown for even
ing and a demi-dress tailor costume.
There is train, but all the bodies are
cut high in the neck, the only conces-
sion being a square-cut or rounding
one, with shirred yoke or guinpe OF
CIlIIOu, tulle, VI OluSI di4y eS-AIAAS.
=
While fashionable tailors and mod
istes are still making constant use Of
the stylish and novel silk and wool
fancies of high price, the tweeds,
cheviots, camel's-hair and bourette ma
terials, the smooth kid-finished Vene-
tians and French broadcloths are en-
ployed in the construction Of the most
elegant fur-trimmed dress costumes of
the winter. This was also the case
year ago, but the wholly new style of
shaping and trimming both skirt, jack
ct, or coat, and sweeping f1ounce-edge
cloak give these familiar but much
improved cloth garments an appear
ance Of genuine novelty.
The graceful, classic, gem-set chats-
1aine has come into favor again among
the accessories Of artistic evening at
tire, and the smartest Of these are of
fine gold in filigree, set with many
colored real gems. Palmer styles of
old Dtuch or Norwegian silver cost
$35, and make very handsome holiday
gifts. Pretty modern designs, holding
pencil, tablet, and aumoniere or bon
bonniere, cost 50 each.
One of the prettiest and newest
fancies this winter consists of a quaint
and beautifully made opera-hood, or
cap, rather-a genuine Normandy mod
ell. 1t is not the familiar peasant
style, with it's huge Alsatian bow at
the top, but the style worn exclusively
by the Normandy ladies. The cap con-
sists of very full-gathered crown,
shaped to stand moderately high at the
top in front. affording sufficient room
for the towering Pompadour. Josephine
or other fashionable style of couture.
The front of the cap Is broad and short
"a mere wide band, laid fiat over the
hair above the forehead, and reaching
only from ear to ear. This has
revers of plain silk or satin. which
turns back from the face, almost COW
ering the fiat band which joins the
full crown. Long, rather broad strings
of hemmed chiffon or mousseline de
sole are added, and these are carried
round the neck to the back. crossed.
then brought forward, and knotted
loosely under the chin.
These caps have been worn in Lon
don for two years past, not only In
brocaded satin, plain and fancy silk,
ETC., but also made of costly fur, the
cap used for winter driving, evening
calling, theater wear, etc. One of the
imported models shown Is made OF
pink satin. brocaded with tiny Marie
Antoinette designs in natural hues.
The broad fiat front-piece is of deep
rose-colored satin, the revers cut con-
siderably shorter at each end than the
band-quite like the turn-back white
cap of a Sister of Charity, only much
smaller. The strings are of soft pink
chiffon. The full crown of another
model is Of mauve satin. brocaded
with yiolets. The band and revers are
of deep violet satin, the strings of
mauve lsse Any one of the variety
shown would make very picturesque
and lovely finishing touch to an opera
toilet and wrap.
There seems to be no end to the va
riety Of long slender chains used this
winter from which is suspended or to
which are attached the muff, purse,
1orgnette, lavender-salts bottle, watch,
shopping tablet or card case. These
chains range in price from so cents to
$15O-or more, If desired, for pure gold
and real gems are used in the con-
struction of the choicest strings. The
muff. chains, as rule, cost the least,
and these are even more useful than
they are ornamental. as the propensity
of nearly every woman is to drop the
untethered muff upon the counter the
moment she becomes absorbed In shop
ping, and to go away and forget 1t. At
an importing house this week it was
said that the number Of lost muffs
reached into the hundreds.