Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-08-05
A PORTUGUESE RESORT.
Some characteristics of CaScaes, tn.
Fashionable Seaside Watering Place
From Chambers Journal

Some characteristics of Caxcaes, the
Fashionable Seaside Watering Place.
From Chambers Journal
AT Cascaes everybody who is anybody
gets up at o'clock, and-in fannels of
every shade and style, white linen coats
and frocks, and such like easy and airy
garments-wanders down to the little sandy
bay to battle. Here the arrangements are
very primitive. Little fiinlsy cotton tents,
too small for an average Englishman to
stand up or turn about in, are pitched
anyhow in compact mass; they are near
ly transparent, and collapse at a puff of
wind or an incautious foot treadng on a
guyrope. Their discomfort is intense, yet
although several Frenchmen have tried to
get concession to put up bathing cabins
to be removed in winter they are always
refused, and things go on in the old hanpy
way. However, the sayety of the bathers
is in no way affected by the wretched ac-
commodation. Everybody knows every
body, and the chatter and laughter are in
cessant. The royalties battle with every
BODY else, splashing and skylarking in the
water without restraint with their sub
iects. and all the world seems to enjoy the
early dip amazingly.
1T Estorfl you may see the garments of
Trouville and Dieppe, but at Cascaes the
old-fashioned blue serge shameless gar
all is over the beach deserted and the
tents struck, and the good folk betake
themselves home to breakfast, and then
with closed sun blinds, sleep away the heat
OF the day. At least this is the preya-
lent idea, but should you get a peep be-
hind the jealously closed green shutters I
fancy you might see many a merry card
party, in light and airy costume, in the
cool and shady north rooms, iced drinks
being much in evidence. Your "Portugee"
is an inveterate gambler, dice being his
chosen method During these playing hours
or sunshine the place is, to all appearance
dead; stray dog or an English tourist
the sole living thing that may venture out
About , o clock in the afternoon the hu-
man ant heap wakes. and the one drive
a level stretch of road along the top of
the cliffs TO the north. extending about
mile, and catching every stray breath from
the Atlantic, is crowded. But the mornings
simplicity has changed. at least as far as
the ladies are concerned. The latest Paris
ian creations dazzle the eye; even the men,
while still sporting fiannels and white
ducks, have them cut in the latest fashion
and the ties must be seen to be believed
Portuguese swell devotes his whole at
tention to his linen and his tie: both are
beautiful to behold. But-alas, that have
TO write it!-fine feathers do not in this case
make fine birds. The Portuguese are ugly
very. OF all the well-dressed crowd of
understood, sallow-faced people, the queen
stands out a brilliant execution as she
skillfully guides her four-in-hand through
the throng, tall, commanding figure, ac-
knowedging her subjects salutes with dig
nified sweetness. She is not Portuguese
The king, with straw hat on his nose and
most enormous cigar protruding from
under 1.-THE has these specially made
drives pair, with an abide camp beside
him; but his brother, Dom Alfonso. tears
along full pelt, driving four huge black
mules in a high brake, with rope harness
and many bells and red tassels He stands
up on the box, fogging them merciessiy
with a short-handled, long-Iashed stock
whip, now and again rapping out weird
swear words at those who do not get out
Of his way fast enough. 1t is not one of
the most edifying sights of Cascaes
Just before O'Clock all the carriages are
pulled up close to the palace; their occu-
pants get out, and everybody stands about
in groups, gossiping and shaking hands on
a long terrace that overhangs the sea and
catches the setting sun full The lSiag
talks confidentially TO his friends, and
everybody has the right to kiss the queen $
hand; and at I all dispense to dress for
dinner.
At o'clock the military band that PLAYS
during the royal dinner comes out into the
big yard of the fort and plays there; and
then all who wish-fshermen, townspeople
tourists and all-are admitted over the
drawbridge and through the big gates, and
crowd and jostle and perspire to their
hearts content, while the royal party looks
down and srins at them from the breezy
heights of the battements. This is called
pece frto, or fried fish," and it expresses
the idea exactly