The times., 1899-09-24
HOW TO DRESS THE HAIR
Parted Locks to Succeed the Pom
padeur Roll.
Novelties In the Advance Hats From
Paris-Terry Velvet for House
Gowns-Belts Entirely Ont of
Ncgue-Corset Coats-CoIIars Fluffy
nnd Very severe-FIaaders Lace.

OF hair-dresSing, for the pompadour is rap
idly disappearing. giving place down the
head to a straight white part running
from crown to forehead. When the part
reaches the forehead abundant rings Of
hair feather out. and the long tresses.
slightly Undulated, are drawn back from
the brew. In soft abundance the hair must
rather puff over the ears. and by day an
arrangement Of low pinned braids Is what
the fashionable woman wears at the back.
In the evening one loop of hair stands
sturdily upon ths apex of the crown. and a
band OF black velvet ribbon eneireles this
tower of hair and ties behind in a bow
that to certain degree gives aid and sup
port to the topknot loop.
One relic of the extreme pompadour.
that used last summer to hang beetl.ng
over the mild eyes of gentlewomen Is the
fancy. nearly amounting TO a fad for con
eealing as much as possible of the fore
head The hair is drawn forward TO cover
the temples and extend nearly 10 the eye
brows. not at all in the mode of the Ia
mentally ugly Russian bang. but in soft
loops and locks, for it is the unfortunately
prevalent impression that hair massed low
over the eyes gives the face a tenderiy
shadowed, subtly melancholy expression
that is wonderfully attractive.
We have had watermelon pink and silver
.cerise for popular e0lorS now two years
or more. and We bid fair TO forsake them
in honor Of rouge red and lire our test
gowns and make UP our gayest silk waists
and taffeta petticoats in this rather fam
buoyant new tone 1t is blush color
with warm golden tone in it. and there
is no disputing its uncommon sympathy
with nearly every complexion Its n0hlesL
mission is performed when blushing IN
der yelling of cream lace and the most
exquisite model yet brought over from
Paris is young lady's ball dress that has
skirt Of rouge red feur de mai silk and a
bodice of the same. The latter Is entirely
veiled in cream-eolored imitation Flan-
ders lace that runs down in fare points On
the skirt and converts the costume into
perfect princesse. For the hair there
is large rouge red bow OF tulle, and the
shoes to wear with it are OF cream lace
over the warmly blushed satin.
1t IS proposed to illuminate here the
question of desirable autumn house gowns.
and this naturally brings US to ccnsidera-
tion OF the colored figured Terry velyets
that are so lavishly exploited by the Pa
risian dressmakers. A pretty goods this
is, an amalgamation Of jute and silk
woven 10 short piled surface. like NOR
ris velvet. and almost guaranteed not TO
crush 1t comes in dress patterns and
done up in boxes. and those who know,
say it has a wonderful constitution for
enduring steady, hard wear. All the rich
er shades of cornhower blue, mulberry
reds. and deep foliage green's are re1iestei
from the velvet surface as backgrounds
on which quaint and fantastic patterns in
contrasting eolcrs are cast
A typical and very ingratiating appear
anee is made by a ripe mulberry red velve-
bearing a scroll pattern IN two shades o.
green On the skirt the broad winding
unconventional sweeps of lighter green
shade TO white at the edge. while a deli
cate reddish patterns runs on the vsrdan-
surface and small green four-ieayed fig
ures sport in perfectly eccentric groups on
the solid red ground Upon the material
for the basque the scroll pattern is a very
dark green and then to keep the whole
costume higher still the front of the bas-
que is gaTnished with wide reyers of heavy
-cream-eoiored SILK embroidered in ths
same color.
Another pattern OF velvet will show
warm cigar brown surface and on this
wandering maze of small dull blue eirc,es
and globnles running in and out OF a Sc
ries Of lighter brown loops and curves.
There is. despite the rather startling origi-
naIity OF these fabrics. no question as to
their beauty when made up with touch
or two OF lace or open work embroidery
about the waist, ard it is well TO kear in
mind that the two above mentioned en-
richments are the only trimmings possible
on these strange new materials
Crowns Of velvet and felt hats are evi-
IDENTIFY to be taller than We have had them
for many a long day. Louis Philippe hats
of velvets with rather broad limp bTims
and lofty sugar loaf crowns are making
popular headway and the velvet on the
crown is often puekered in close-set per-
pendieular tucks and decorated with two
full long plumes fastened by handsome
brooch a triae 10 the left. Another modish
form has it's brim bent TO loop in front,
the tall crown belted with four narrow vel
vet folds and at the base OF the two plumes
knot of velvet with Roman buckle OF
Jewels. is fastened Very thin chiffon and
mousseline de sole wells, their borders
hemstitched are among the millinery nov
elites for this month. and many Of the
new hats have small jsweled attachment
fastened to the rear edge Of their briEns for
holding fast the veil.
Concerning neck hnishings ali feminity
may be divided by its two types OF adyO-
Gated cellar for One-half the sex are going
to continue the wearing of hu1s and IA
bots and puffy decorations under the chm;
while the remainder Of the dress loving
daughters of Eve viii top of their high
necked waists with perfectly close, severe
corded collars of velvet satin eT silk reach
ing high under the ears, fastening behind
and extending in a pointed bib on the
chest. From the bib rolls back the hand
some and ubiquitous reveT, and there are
very few women to whom this method OF
line and color near the face does not con-
tribute grateful result.
All women, however. are united on the
point that waist and skirt should no longer
be divided by satin. velvet or any ether
kind of a belt. a dTessmaker who knows
! anything at all about her business now I'm
ishes the top of skirt with small cord
covered with the dress goods or narrow
fold of the same and this fits over the bot
tom OF the waist, and the consequence
| is a long gracious continuous line from
armhcle over the hip All stout women
will do well TO study and apply this new
law Of dress.
The little covert coat has been imprcv-
ing the shining hour by assuming dseora-
tive touches CT fur that viii undoubtedly
prololg its sphere OF usefulness far into
the autumn. 1t has appeared lately IN grey.
brown, and green cut on the mode Of a
basque coat that is fitted TO the figure with
4 rounding tail on the hip and nat collar
revers folding in a group Of three or the
shoulder.
Evidently wcmankind is not yet pre-
pared to resign the comfort OF the short.
close-dtting fur jacket, for it is easy 10
count them by the dozen in the furrieTs
cupboards while they are being snapped up
over the counters. Until last year these
s'Cosies'' as they are termed By the trade