The times., 1899-10-15
CUBA'S SMALLER PORTS
A Description of Localities Com
paralively Unknown.
Scenes Around Cape Naisi, where
Christopher Columbus First Land
ed-BaracOa and Its Tiny But
Beautiful Harbor-Where Smoking
of Tobacco Was First Witnessed.

NEUVITAS, Cuba, Sept 6.-From San
tiago around the eastern end Of the island
10 Baracoa, on the north coast, is an all
night run. The earliest glimpse ashore re-
Yeals dim highlands topped with clouds.
so vague in the morning mists that none
can say where land ends and sky begins.
The low hills that encompass southeastern
Cuba, rising in natural terraces from the
waters edge. bear striking resemblance
10 the artificially terraced slopes of the
Peruvian Andes, whereon the Ineas culti-
waited cocoa. Farther TO the westward these
hills mount higher and higher, till, merged
in the dark, cloud-canopied Maestro range,
while to the eastward they suddenly dis
appear in a series OF steep cliffs, 10 be re-
sumed al irregular intervals on the north
shore in The Cuchillas de Baracoa, the Santa
de Moa, and other mountains.
Just before reaching Baracoa you pass
Point Maisi, the extreme eastern tip OF
Cuba. which is separated from Haiti by
the swift and narrow channel marked on
the map as the Windward Passage. And
well il deserves the name, for all the con-
trary winds that blow seem TO frolic here,
tossing the surface into boisterous billows
that cause the most hardened seagoers 20
cast their bread upon the waters leaning
over the steamers rail like so many limp
bundles
The tall, white shaft OF Maisi lighthouse
in the form of much-elongated Cleopatra's
Needle, is not unlike the monument erected
In Washington in honor of the Father OF
His Country. except for the beacon signal
on the top OF this. Readers Of history will
remember that the name West Indies was
first applied at Point Maisi. Columbus
called il Alpha and Omega believing
that he had touched the eastern end of
Asia-the borderland of the Grand Khan,
whom that colossal liar, Marco Polo, had
so luridly described
The great admiral came ashore here, the
first point upon which he set his feet in
Cuba, and dispatched an embassy to the
imaginary potentate with gifts and friend
ly messages. Though IL proved fruitless
expedition. there being no Grand Khan
TO be conciiiated, nor any city of mighty
proportions such as Polo had romanced
about, another discovery was made OF
more Importance to future generations
viz. that OF tobacco. IL Las Casas' mar
rstive, entitled '-El Primer Yiajo de Co
Ion" columbus first voyage, We trans
late as follows:
He beheld several OF the natives 60
ing about with fire brands in their hands
and certain dried herbs, which they rolled
up in a leaf, and lighting one end, put
the other end into their mouths. contin-
ually exhaling and putting out the smoke.
A roll OF this they called -tabac,' name
since transferred to the weed from whose
leaves the rolls were made"
Near Maisi are some extensive and very
curious carerns which were evidently
much frequented by those o,d-time smok-
ers. Unfortunately, on account Of danger
Gus reefs and pounding surf, the steamer
does not so near enough for passengers
to discern more than black spots in the
shoreward bluffs, indicating the mouths OF
these caves. IL is worth rowing back to
them from Baracoa- No thorough e1plo-
ration Of their recesses has ever been
made. but petriied crania and many
strange relics found near their entrances
show traces Of the aborigines.
Baracoa's Tiny Harbor.
Baracoa's tiny harbor is extremely diff
cult Of access. through the usual narrow
and winding channel characteristic OF the
coasts OF Cuba. When once inside the
land-locked bay. whose tranquil waters
mirror the bluest skies and greenest hills
and tallest palms imaginable, you realize
the truth OF the glowing report which
Columbus gave Of it to his soyereigns. He
named il Puerto Santos, port OF the
saints" and described it in these quaint
words:
The amenity Of the rivers, through
which the sand al the bottom may be
seen; the multitude OF palm trees OF va
rions forms, the lightest and most beau
tiful ] have ever met, together with an
inhnity OF great and green treez; the birds
In rich plumage and the verdure OF the
fields, render this country. oh, most
Serene Princes, Of such marvellous beauty
that II surpasses all other in charms and
graces, as day doth the night in lustre
have been so overwhelmed al the sight OF
SO much beauty that truly ! know not how
10 relate il TO your msjesties"
The traveller OF today finds himself in
similar predicament for words fail in de-
picting the supreme loneliness of this
region, whether viewed from the sea or
from the hills that rise behind Baracoa.
Graceful palms fringe the shores and
adorn the slopes; hills lift their heads
above sea Of forest which seems TO re-
tain all its primeval freshness and ma
jesty; while the great table-topped mesa
close behind the town, is the most con-
Epicuous feature for many miles This
singular mountain still bears its aboriginal
tions cling. To this day the natives de-
clare that at times the face and figure
0E the marryred cacique, Hatuey, who was
burned al the stake by the greedy Span
iArds, IN the hope that he would disclose
the secret OF hidden gold (which did not
exist, may be clearly traced on Yunques
perpendicular cliffs that overlook the val
ley he loved.
Columbus reached this place late in
October and spent several weeks search
Eng yainly for Bohio," another mythical
place where be had been told was rIenty
OF gold; but finding none, he sailed away
early in December. steering straight across
the channel for the cloud-like mountains
OF HaitL However, il was owing TO his
glowing report OF Puerto Santos" (noW
Baracoal, that twenty years later Diego
NelazQuez came over and founded the town
which he christened by the ponderous title
Of la Cuidad de Neustra Sonora de l.
Asuncion. He created bishopric of A.
appointed civil officers and fixed his owr
residence here: but somehow the city
never amounted 10 much, though a more
favorable site cannot be found In Cuba
On all Spanish maps il still figures under
the old high-soun6ing name bu. The res
Of the world knows ii as Baracoa- II has
now about three thousand inhabitants. ant
is Important only as the shipping point o.
immense quantities OF pineapples, bananas
and cocoanuts. At certain seasons its ba,
IS crowded with fast-sailing craft seeking
their eargoes; but there IS no hotel in The
town, only wretched fonda ct neithel
for man nor beast, and the average touris
finds the halliday which the steamer re.
Qnires Tor discharging and receiving oargS
more time than he cares TO spend here
The Town is completely surrounded by az
abrupt range Of hilis-part Of the Sierra
Nisse chain Back OF them rise the noun.