davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1899-03-26

Paris. March 1l.-Of all the contents of
TIE up-to-date woman's wardrobe. the tea
8own alone is independent OF Fashions
Syay. and Is characteristic only of the
WpeSer'ss taste and the dressmaker'S art.
Inoeed. madame knows fun well that what
ever roles she may play in costumes to
match. TO win the worlds applause, the
most. becoming and irresistible role is the
enc IN which she plays herself in her own
surroundings and swathed in one of those
tanctful compositions of soft silks and rib
hons and laces which she calls a tea
govn. Nc wonder. then, that dressmakers
make the most strenuous efforts TO ind
Something new which will accord with their
clientele's view In this line.
The illustration herewith, which is de-
signed b. Lebsohn. shows a model con-
etructed for the trousseau of a fashionable
Partisan bride. and unsurpassed in delicacy
eof colorins and ~gracefulness of line.
I The costume consists of two parts, a
ttEht-htttnE princess gown n Il loose oV-
!, rdresa. The former is of pale tearose
tiolored satin, yelled with mousseiine
= sole OF q darker rose color. II closes at
me back and falls In a train of medium
q full ounce of pieated mousseline de sole
OF the sumo color as that which wells the
eattn. and Is attached to the skirt under
2 ntted applique band OF ecru Irish guipure.
The overdress has a yoke Of pleated rose
cotored mousseline. surmounted by a high
eOft collar OF the same material, and nm
l9hed with a pleated iouncc of muusscline.
The sleeves are OF the same rose-coioreJ
mousseline. pleated and inclosing the arms
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1899-03-26

ionable articles Of wear the ostrich feather
boas have undergone considerable change.
Besides the combination of neutral coiors,
such as We are more or less familiar with.
are now more pronounced mixtures, mauVe
and green. violet and white, green and
rose. These will be worn in driving or
on hotel piazzas on cool evenings. and are
gown or hat.
The most salient features about the sea-
sons hats is the extensive use of di-
aphanoCS stuffs in the construction of the
shape. and ribbons. flowers and foliage and
fruit have entirely superseded feathers as
trimmings. Color combinations are fairly
exhausted in the makeup of the spring
and summer hat. and white and black alone
or combined are also greatly in vogue.
One smart toque is made of seven yards
of black silk tulle, twisted and rolled over
a small wire shape. which has the brim
turned up high OF one side. Small gold
s%pangles are sewed on the tulle after the
hat is completed. and the turned-up brim
is filled out by d graceful Louis XIV. bow
of ruby velvet. held by 4 gilt buckle and
attached with long pins. which permit its
being detached easily and substituted con-
veniently by 4 bow of any other color to
match the gown with which it IS to be
worn.
Among straws, both coarse and fancy.
great variety of color prevails. and among
becoming. The hat of our illustration is Of
green chip straw. and has a wide brim
edged with small full ruchings of green
crepe. The high square crown is encircled
by a ribbon Of delicate green and narrow
shades. which IS knctted on the left side.
The effect is completed by a shaded mauye
feather aigrette. FELIX FOURNERY.
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1899-03-26

tightly to the wrist. where they are
adorned by "A cuff of guipure and Il narrow
lounce OF mousscline. y band of cuipure
and moussel!Ee %founceH also decorate the
upper arm. thus Stimulating n short over
sleeve and showing the delicate outline
OF the shoulder with charming effect. The
yoke which closes inviSibly in front fin
ishes with a Huipure band matching that
of the skirt. The long. flowing drapery of
the tunic consists of the same rosc-colored
mousseline. II IS cut into undulatinG scol-
Of mousseiine and is adorned with delicate
traceries of lace a%pp!iqued with silver
thread.
The dainty slipper. fit for Cinderella's
foot, Is The latest venture of The chaus-
seur's ingenuity to make the foot appear
smaller. 1t is made of lustrous black satin.
striped with appliqued white satin ribbon.
and Is trimmed with Il tiny black satin
bow. held 10y q rhinestone buckle. The
red leather The embroidered hose is Of
black silR. and the effect is very new
and very desirable To the Parisienne who
devOtcs as much attention TO her lingerie
and the details of her toilette rs she does
to the gown itself.
Having arrived ut the subject OF lingerie.
the newest corset cover depicted on this
page viii appeal to lovers of dainty under
wear. II consists of finest ecru linen
batiste. with a yoke OF fuiled pufiings and
alternate insertions of real Nalenciennes
lace. The deco.i.re and armholes are
edged with NaiencicInes tiounces. and mar
row maura satin ribbon is passed through
the beaded insertions and ties into graceful
bows on the shoulders and at the closing
In front.
Among the improvements of other fash
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1899-03-26
A W0MAN's CLUBHOUSE.
boston Clubs Are RuildinK q Princely
HOMs-The Work OF Five
Years.

Boston Is to have the finest clubhouse for
women in the country. The old houses
numbered Il and Il Beacon street are being
demolished to make way for the new build.
ing. and the work OF construction will be
begun as soon as the ground is cleared.
The site is the finest on Beacon hill. COM
Indlding Il view down Beacon street. across
fremont and through SchOo; to Washing
ton. and up BEACON street to the state
house and the Common. The building will
bc Il modern teT--;ory structure. covering
an area of s4Xsi feet. in the Renaissance
style of architecture. the upper portion of
of stone. The top will be ornamentei with
Il co!onnade. richly decorated with cornices
ana other effective features. From the little
balconies at the top of the building ex-
tending out from the restaurant and BAN
quet hall. there will he i fine view of tine
city. the haroOr and BroOkline.
me prime object is the accommodation
OF the woraen's clubs OF Boston and vicin-
ity. and 1t Is estimated that more than a
thousand women. representing almost h
hundred organizations. will find comfortable
headquarters here.
On the ground floor. besides the two
storerooMs. which will he rented out. there
VIII be a reception room for stockholders.
ana 4 hall with a seating capacity of more
than 900. In the basement will lie Turkish
baths and gymnasium containing 4 SWIM
ming tank. On the second floor VIII be s.v-
erai reception and lecture rooms. 20 ar
ranged that when required they can be
thrown into one hall. The executive Offices
OF the corporation will also be on this floor.
and on the one above more rooms for club
purposes. The restaurant. banquet hall and
kitchens. will be on the top ,A,or. and the
intervening floors will be divided into Of
noes rented out for general purposes. Every
need OF every club has been carefully stud
ied in planning the building. one of the
architects. Miss Josephine Wright Chap
man. being a director in the corporation
and familiar with the needs and tastes of
club women.
1t Is five years since the actual work
Tor the clubhouse was begun. Money has
been raised by voluntary subscription. by
entertainment and by hard personal solicit
tation. The clubhouse corporation was iu-
sets. Mrs. Potter is the present president.
her predecessors in office having been Mrs.
Julia Ward Howe. Mrs. Florence Barker
and Mrs. f. NJ. H.. Merrill.
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1899-03-26
\ Simple Spring Hat.

!. nv muse IS propitiou. I'm going 10 sing
uf = very remarkable sort OF a thing
lis ihe structure the women th.s wear cali a ,.h.. =,
II might IL most %an,thins, SO why not that"
And i; any wonsa who's &c, half i Will In her
NUtsi Use to Know how she ca, l.. her own mil.
ilnGi.
And thus possess one OF those woudrous confections.
She has but 10 follow these simple directions:
Firs'. take for tho groundwork what's known Is .
frame
CThe shape doesn't matter; no two are the ssme,
Then take lots of ribbon, and make into bows,
Wide. narrow, red, yellow. we've Sh,nr goes.
Next scatter thes. ribbon isws over the crown.
In front and behind. wrong side out. upside down:
II you put them on %blind:old. you'll get an effect
That the leaders Of fashion will cry Is correct"
Then gather gay Garlsnds OF marvellous hue.
Green roses. pink lilIcs and poppies u blue.
And place them IN punches wherever there's .oom-
Til! you've bull; Up q bower Of fan>i,ul bloom.
The hat. Il yen've carefully followed my wordA
Is now READ. ior adding occasional birds.
TWO wings, n few feathe.s. . pompon. some lace.
And three iswe.sd hAtpins TO keep it in place.
You nov have a hes tgear that no one would know
WEs MT = creation Of Madame Virot:
Aad II you've good taste. YOU will hide II away.
And buy 4 neat sailor to wear every day.
-Hsrps:'S Bazaar.
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1899-03-26

kind in colered cloth which can be imas,
med. Tan and gray are especially good
worn In Paris. Rows Of stitching. stitched
bands OF cloth, satin ba IDS and b%raid!ng
are the modes of ing cloth capes.
The prevailing model Is short. falling Il lii
tie below the waist line. and cut with a
scant circular %iiounce on the bottom: IN
covered with a sort Of vermiceli pattern
In cream silk braid. The high collars arc
lined with velvet and trimmed inside with
ilnCiful. made OF chiffon shirr.d and plait-
ed. or OF lace and jet. ar. very attractive
novelties. but their mission is no, one If
usefulness. They are very pretty and no,
very expensive If You make them at home
Out Of black point d'esprit.
The new floral hats are mad. entirely of
one kind of flowers sewn down 10 "A firm
shape, Il double layer of them on the hrim.
or" outside and one underneath. Roses
are NOR. used for the purpose than dus
other Hover. ropries standing next in faV-
or. foth a!e chosen very full blown and
effective way of trimming them is to insert
on the side. rather forward, two or three
mounted blooms OF the same color. but
leaves and another of buds.
L. have also seen one or Two specimens
of hats covered closely with corniiowers
OF a light srayish blue tint: wreaths OF
these flowers arg also Used 10 trim blue
eauze hats. Pale green. almos; white
leaves, are likewise pressed into the ser
vice. They make very dressy hats with 4
bunch of FURNISHED brown or scarlet leaves
us trimming.
Bunches OF flowers will be chiefly used
10 deck straw mi,lecs and sailors coujoint-
ly with draperies of gauZe or white lace
wells. arranged about The crown. the single
feather being reserved for the Alpir.S.
oniy to be counted really seasonable when
the long vacation Is 1t hand. Loose
sprays of flowers and ribbons will not often
be seen on any but bersereS. to which circu-
lar arrangements are best suited. and even
take their. place: the ribbon trade cannot
count much on the miln-ers this year.
Milliners continue TO evincc a very eclec-
tic taste in respect TO colors. Cnloubt-
eddy pink and deep red rose tints are the
hut blue tiEts OF inauve are somewhat
set aside. though both dull grayish blue
and sky promise 10 be extremely fashion
able. Pale green. such as c,ladon and fern
ionable co!ors. but II Is IN the reds. pinks
and warmer hued v!ole;s that the great
est variety Is 70 be found. One Very mark
ed difference IS made between every cay
and smart hats and this lies In the choice
OF the color for the straw. For the former.
and other browns will be preferred, whsre-
as for the latter positive colors will be
most in favor. and where enters
into the trimming It will generally be of
pens to be in the shape OF a single layer
OF white Malines tulle envelopinG the en-
tire hat. an advancement which promises
10 be Very fashionable later on in the Ilm-
mer, when tnl'e strings may very pee.i-
ity IL exercised in the working up of guaxe
and tulle either into coverings for shapes
OF G7Wm1nGA One Of the latest ideas -
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1899-03-26
HOW TO MAKE A FILTER.
Should swallow the Ge.ns

Of TyphOla.
Here Is a scheme by which II u poasibSo.
for anyone TO a a filter that win -
its work properly. Several subscSihess -
the Inquirer nave tried this home-1aAo
filter for a long time and say that u wog11I
excellently. The first requisite II either q
good key or "a good barrel, although yo0
may use a stone crock II you wish syoa
first cut out two boards so they Wl0 ~
about the middle or u little below the ~
side of the key. or whatever you may ~
for the purpose. These boards are to 6oep
the filter proper in place. and should nj
rather snugly. 1t is best to have q
out easily, and have them ft .
does the head Of a barrel; In fact. II =
can arrange asbestos or canvas 1Foqo4
the head Of the barrel SO i viii 1s.ete.
just the hing. Through this head 49,
as many half-inch holes as you pseasasse9
as to allow the water to escape fntoe ~
lower compartment when Il - -
false bottom In place. cover IL 'e1tAee gt1As
canvas or asbestos and ON top q THU D1nQx
a sheet Of cotton wadding. On tHe eeS4o9s
place a layer Of clean sand a1o4t 0eex
cotton or flannel atd on this places 49,
inch layer of cha:coal. which has -
crushed into pieces about the $50
pea. and be careful hat you fan -
position. Place one piece Of cOttoa eeoe
on top Of this charcoal and then po3
a second false bottom similar to The m
mother ans C. cotton tor cloth 10th, may b. psscss y
little Of the mud. coal and other -
out Of the water before u reaches q
charcoal and sand. and Kive0 the
proper a chance to do some sood 49,
by turning 1t upside d0wn and runf
water through II.
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1899-03-26
AMI EASTER DaEAN64
Table Deessssssss ESQ Moss I
naiaty Meal On Easter
MspssnG.

Mssalss.
From the New York World.
The floral ccnterpiece may be eith14G
tall glass vase filed with Easter N1tea q
n bowl filled with narcissii. hyacintho an
Chinese lilies arranged with aspasa4ua
fern.
AZ each plate is an eg9sheil ffed ytsnri
white cggsheli. break at the sm9J1 81
and remove the contents. chipping tie e1Do
ifresnlarly.. To make II stand erect 49,
In four or five shot,. over which p0up 0149s
ed wax. The shot. held In place n ~
hardened wax. furnish a firm base. r16oe
f TeSsa s1 be- 1 ,sass s. 81 x snsll Y Tb 60 ~
the double purpose OF favors anA nam4:
cards.
kets. small size. such as are used ~ Il
eTers. Line each with golden
simulate "a nest. These are 70 b -
on In the second course. nllsd wsse -
Bread and Butter Sandwiches
Boiled Eegs. :
Eelishss; Celery. o.,s. $685.
Lettuce Salad. Waters. Cream chess.
Lemon Jelly. Angels Food. Codss.
F~RICASEED CHICKEN.
Cut up and put on to boil skin side down,
in y small quantity OF water. Season w1tn
salt, pepper and slices of an onion. 4 hee4.
add a half pint u cream or milk 10 ReyX
and thicken with butter and -four fuoeoo
smoothly together adding a little q -
gravy to soften and help rrix them.1 .1IRS
boil two or three minutes, d . little 49,
ped parsley and serve.
Mold the croduet,es in egg shape.
Make the sandwiches OF bread cut Wy
thinly. in oblong form.
For salad serve two crisp lettuce eaySD
with slices OF hard boiled egg. Serve-tho
m~ayonnaisc separately. as many Do -
care for X.
Drop Malaga grapes into the lemon 1elly.
lust before II sets.
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1899-03-26
los FingeP Tipe.

Anyone who gets . chance to obse{ 3
n nauSs aua opera boxes. e AN hoPdsy
the fact that pretty bare hands RS
show glitterinR nails at the lngf =
that the immaculate fairness Of
and shoulders IL apparently not
powder nor unusual pallor. and thiA
~ every woman has Wonderfu11Ye n
hair. 01ES
Well. It s'nnly amounts to- ~
urally polished finger rNla-eaf3
garded as significant Of 9&sse 90
much care As formerly II S&S1f
manicure. but to show wonea3S
nails with snow white and ~
curved tops Is the aim 2
bred beauty. Pink finger .
cheeks. bright eyes and shinips
cate health. and health In 0neSA ~
est forms Of beauty. 80 II y@Sla e
pale and blotched with whites Co.
refuge Of u coral fluid Fem04 -
This is a species Of lacquer peVo 9y
nails surface. left to dry andkeD
pretty pinkness hat makes thl&1
nail look wonderfully white by -
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1899-03-26

to run in innumerable small tucks close to
getier. with silk twist of The same color.
rms Is best done by hand. but for the
into repl'isition. \ stiil more difficult rra-
cess consists in gathering up small fril-
!!iiSs; about half ar inch wide. and sew
mer. Very narrow fancy ribbons are used
to edge each frill.
Ros+.ttes are sometimes made of frills
of this sort. a circular brooch or noupv
statnens place! in the center. Trimmings
of different sorts are also evolved out of
straw; which is twisted into torsades and
sometimes into shapes resembling borus
or certain pointed shells. Very fine straw
passsnlenteEie is likewise in request for
aitcrward used for the browning of hats or
for making draperieS.
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1899-03-26
Crystal In Favor.

Crystal is now taking the place OK silver
FOR toilet articles and pretty little trirkets
THAT women love, and the woman who will
will receive no end Of pretty things.
Sets for the toilet table are made Of plain.
uncut crystal or are cut and engraved un-
til they sparkle like diamonds. Mono
of silver gold OF gun metal are
sometimes used for decoration, and ink
wells. paper weights and all sorts OF dainty
material.
Other little trinkets made of crystal are
the "Cyrano' watch chains. of crystal
beads on gold wire: hatpins, studs and
cufbottons. all sorts of fancy buttons. aud
f.r hats.
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1899-03-26
ONLY.

Yes. We are only friends. but dear the tie
That binds our very souls. and 1t Is best
For you. my friend. and best for me. to rest
In this sweet peace. nor wake at last to sigh
For sweeter chords to bind our hearts In one,
A closer tie-Ah. dear. the hope Is vain.
Your path lies yonder. mine is here In pain.
And sore at heart we'd wish the chords undoue,
! know your heart could answer mine: / own
The sweet response that echoes in M soul.
And oft / would that I might give the whole
OF this great throbbing heart to you alone.
I know your kiss would wake the sleeping fires
That in my bosom burn. but then. I say.
IT'S best for you and best for me Away.
To he as Enthusiastically hath no desires.
Lyons. Kas. MRS. A. l.. MCMILLAN.
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1899-03-26
EASTER BELLS.

Arr and near MS. the sound of bells,
With the passionate thrill OF u song that tells
~ glory that was. and that Is 70 be:
DrAong sweet. over wilds and deiis.
Hsum tower and steeIle. from street and town
From lonely villages nestled down
A. the foot Of the mountains. rough and bare,
Al. the wilderness blossoms to-day anew
~ heer's bleak desert IL glad again.
AS roes bloom where the brsmbies grew
Tke earth has forgotten her erief and pain
In thia benediction OF Heavenly calm.
. Eark. nosting out on the listening air
~ myriad cadepces Of prayer.
Praise and ritual. chant aud pEaiin.
y vslling the Worldwide Easter song
-Maeelisp 5. Bridges in the woaian's Home Com
SsaIOa.
. The new spring wraps are capes In vary
ing lengths between medium short and very
short. longer dolman shapes for women
kinds. The cape reaching TO the elbows is
ne taunftest little garment for summer
uoe. when a coat Will not answer the Gur-
Dooe, and II t. varicusiy mace OF ta1eta
eilk. mcirc. satio. ard mirror ve.y,t IN male
ray Or some brighter color. and elaborate
U t!mmed with rIShe-edsed plated frilis
u collars of all the capes are high, ac-
res.ding 20 the New York Suns fashion
ysssss; lima inside er With siIh s ans ,in,s ehifI0 IN
front with bow and scarf ends OF plated
SmpoFteI models is made of pale gray taffe-
q ohirred around on large cords TO fit the
shoulders closely and finished with a plait-
Ing Of gray chiffon edged with a ruche.
= upper portion Of some of the capes
= OoQnetimes covered with q network OF
Set, which w very effective over a color,
mi cht6on friils or Chantilly lace frills,
q both. fall below this. One little model
- The shawl shape. pointing down in the
hack. In ietted net over rich mirror velvet
and finished all around the edge with a
plain net plating. in turn edged with a
Tuche. which stems TO be the universal I'm
q.
Taneta silk . gcred and teathered
f0a6o With long stole ends. Co!orea peau de
-, especially In the shades of tan. Is
another material which appears in capes.
and cream lace fr!lls are the trimming.
enc deep one. perhaps. with a heading made
5Supplemented by q band OF applique lace.
fWkateyer the length of the cape may be.
n rounds up IN front, and in many
Instances reminds you OF the capes worn
no dcinan is hero again. and another
9ssment OF SILK. psnne and lace which has
q short sacque. rather. With deep lace
llouncee and distinct sleeves. Pale gray
0oire - Q very pretty foundation for .
cape with black trimmings.
A shawl cape is . combination of black
velvet, white satin. white giace silk and
MACK chiffon. Tn velvet. embroidered
With turquoise steel and Jet, forms the up
Der part, cut away here and there 10 show
he white satin underneath crossed by a
nssgsrk e steel beads; 4 neSnSS OF Whi,s
}Sl0 fFe9 the velvet. The scarf in front
= r-,SHf AhlfEpu. velled with black.
-r1nostsemnD NOT confined -
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1899-03-26
Needlebook for Cxcli.,..

A useful article for cyclists is a needle.
book. 1t can be made Of u strip of kid or
leather and lined with 4 bit of satin. sew
One end folds over and forms u rocket
FOR buttons. and IA leaf of flannel will do
Tor holding the needles. Lengths Of thread
of different colors and weights are RIM
into the cases. Thus there is supplied the
wherewithal to mend Il braid. u shoe, IL
gown or sew buttons on Il boot. and all
tucked into a neat roll that will go in any
body's pocket.
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1899-03-26

Mix two ounces of ground rice with two
ounces of flour: mix smoothly with two
egg and half a pint of milk. Keep the
batter very smooth. and beat 1t well.
Grease a small frying pan well. pour in
about a teaspoonful of the batter: run it
quickly over the bottom of the pan. and
fry Il golden brown on both sides. Spread
with some nice JAM. and roll up: repeat
until the batter Is used up.
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1899-03-26
To Pulverise Salt.

II you find your salt in the salt bag as
hard as the p%roverbial neither milestone"
don't attempt TO pulverize 1t with the
hammer or potato masher. but. lifting the
bag - foot or two from the table. drop it
down solidly several times. turning it from
reduced to cIYStAlsk
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1899-03-26
opsof1AM COSTUME wr,u SIMULATED on

A model designed especially for use In
wash garments represents q gingham Co.'S
tune with gored overdress and attached
skirt. The latter extends under the over
where IL is stitched into position. The |
oyerdress is faced with a fitted facing. 4
pattern OF which accompanies the cos
tune pattern. The skirt is circular, but
has a slight fuiiness in the back. The
waist is tucked vertically down the back
In groups of na-rowest tucks and similar |
tuckS extend on each side of the front
to withiu a few inches OF the center. where
the bodice ends III two long revcrr. The |
yoke Is of tucked white duck. which also
faces the sleeves AZ the wrist. u FERNS