The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1899-10-27
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81 . G44aA4A3S9O + "
must not call it boucle), with a crepon
stripe.
And when we get to crepon We've got
ten to the heart Of the subject as far as
dress wear is concerned. Stripes predomi-
nate in the latest effects. and the width
is from AZ to 46 inches. There's everything
from the plainest blister crepon to Won
drous weaves. which look like gorgeous
Eastern embroideries on softest pulled
satin dyed black. One does not find Sc an
excessive price.
For evening wear crepes and grenadines
] are at the top Of the black goods vogue.
The crepe de Chine {from 81 to IS per
yard, the latter double Width is always
elegant, and may even be worn in the
daytime, which cannot be said of the
gauzy grenadines that go to make such
fine evening wear. A beautiful thing
with satiny stripes may be had for s1.25,
and a woman who really and truly enjoys
dining win require at least eight yards.
Another item in their favor is their
adaptability as summer attire.
Some matrons. however, lean toward
the heavy silk fabrics and are content in
nothing less for real occasions. Taffeta
is a favorite. especially if it be heavily
corded, as is b~engaline and poplin. The
satin broche effects, which look k
heavy embroideries. are fairly first choice
while black velvet figures enrich many a
plain ground. Satin antique, panne, vel
vet and uncut velvet are each and all
favored by those who care to afford them,
but they are not at all wide and cost from
81 up.
AS for trimmings, the woman who buys
a black dress is simply overwhelmed with
their variety and richness. While the
shops really can't afford to keep at all
many sorts in co,ors leach color has end
less shades, and the piece they ave never
matches the customers sampled, the
stocks of black are i~nexhaustible. Every
thing comes in blacl1-the black that isn't
mourning-from the unassuming little
soutache braid 10 the most magnificent
fringes and trimmings in sequins.
There is a tendency on the part of
those familiar with Paris to contrast the
Partisan woman with her American sis
tiers, to the detriment Of the latter. One
frequently sees in the public prints the
statement that. the Parisienne is not
merely better dressed than the American
woman, but that she constantly exhibits
more originality and ingenuity in her at
tire.
There is a certain amount Of truth in
this. but, like most half truths. the state
ment is wholly misleading. It cannot be
denied that a greater uniformity of dress
exists IN this country than in France and
that the American woman is more apt to
rely for the style of her costume on her
d~ressmaker or her favorite store, but it is
equally a fact that the great majority of
American women are far more solicitous
as to their personal appearance and more
careful to be dressed in the prevailing
mode than the average woman of France,
Germany or Great Britain.
For every woman who is dressed in the
latest style on the other side there can be
four hundred in this country, and this
not merely in New York, but in all the
more important cities. In Europe, out
side of Paris. London and Berlin, the eff
fort to be well dressed is confined to a
few. says DRY Goods Economist" The
majority of European women are in one
degree or another of a mind that there
was no use in being well dressed 1t home,
because everybody in the town knew who
IA was am tia foo ~ ~
dressing well when she went elsewhere,
because then nobody knew who she vas
This is an altogether Inherent attitude
from that of the American woman, who
feels tina she owes it TO herself TO be
into raptures about the originality of the
Parisienna ought to have these facts
brought hons to them.
A geisha must be highly accomplished.
because her chief duty is to amuse, says
the "Woman's Home Companion" While
not by any means a musician. she must be
able to perform on the samisen, koto,
tzuzumi Ga DRUM an dother musical in
struments. She dances, sings. and talks
On the lightest subjects, and always holds
herself in readiness to entertain her
guests according to their mood. A witty
geisha, one who is a good talker, pretty
and graceful, will not lack of employment
at any time and generally makes a very
good living. While it is not al all neces-
sary for her to arouse mirth, her object
must be to beguile the time that is irk-
some to her guests. Thus it often hap
pens that one feeling depressed will send
for a geisha girl. The geisha is a natural
actress and her taste in dress is exquisite,
her movements Incompatible in grace.
Last winter the popularity of the SPAN
gled gown cache such a height that
fashion seers predicted that it would have |
no rogue whatever his year. While it
may have become passe to those women
who were fortunate enough to be the
first possessors of the luxurious and per-
ishabie froeks, there seems to be no
abatement in their sale at the shops.
Spangled robes and lace robes are sold
by the hundred each day. For evening
wear the gold and silver spangies on
white or cream net are pretty. In fact,
spangles appear on everything-hats,
shoes. fans, and even hosiery. The ex-
tr%avagance of the spangled gown makes
it apparently more popular with women.
It cannot be cheaply gotten up, and there
are no limitations.
The jacket Of a runabout costume for
morning wear is fitted with what is
known as revers in duplicate. The up
per part of this arrangement is cut in
one with the back of the collar, and lies
on the shoulders covering the yoke. This
is rounded like the ordinary revers, fair
ly in toward the centre, from which it
springs outward again from another
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