The times., 1899-09-10


be a green autumn. not so far as vegeta-
tion is concerned, perhaps, but beyond a
peradventure il is 10 prove a verdant sea-
son in clothes, for in the woolIy plaids
the creamy-surfaced plain goods. and the
silks, a whole chorus of variation on the
tone Of emerald viii be seen. For this
complexion of the fashions We are directly
behoiden to the international yacht races
and Sir Thomas Lipton's Irish boat. With
timely cleverness the milliners have intro
duced shamrock felts: then we have Erin
green camels hair. and the Fife plaid is a
common vision with its deep green and
brown stripes in the shop windows.
The feIts, il is necessary TO mention,
that show outside the rich leaf green OF
Ireland's beloved plant, are faced on the
inside of their brims with green o. a
pale sage tone, for this is the law Of the
mode just now as it relates to hats. On a
brown, mauve, blue or red felt wherever
the brim turns up. it reveals the facing in
one or two tones higher than on the ont
side. and it is evidently the maneuyre o.
the modistes to assail the wide, low brim-
med chapeau on eli sides and accomplish
their ends by divers subtle schemes. This
light brim facing is one, and another plan.
actuated doubtless by true Christian
charity. is that of making the small far
ing hats so extremely pretty that the big.
wide-roofed ones viii stand no chance at
all in the sales Of popularity.
The great claim for charm in the new
hat is made through its huge velvet pct
aled flowers that are so much more be-
coming than anything save ostrich plumes.
The making of these French loses, peo-
nies. aitheas. lotus, etc. has beeen carried
10 the highest artistic point, and career
of startling color combinations in felt
shapes and velvet flowers has been en-
tered upon by every one OF the leading
milliners
For example, shamrock green felt sup
porting two enormous periwinkle blue vel
Vet blossoms with black silk hearts and a
watt Of black aigrette between them, is
served up as the uitimatum OF modish ex-
preston, and surprising as this sounds
any veracious color-ioving eyewitness can
attest 10 the charm of this bit OF head
gear.
Anothing amazing device, still well with-
in the bounds Of the aesthetic limits, is a
dead black velvet feather, its small low
crown tending TO pudding shape. its two
inch wide bTim deeply futed and rolling
up on one side 10 show inner skin of the
deepest damson purple. while perched
against the crown 10 one side is big
snow-white and very conyentionaiized vel
vet hybiscus. out of the heart of which
flows a mixed black and white aigrette.
IL is pleasure to record that, saving the
unlucky osprey. no feathered creatures ere
now called upon TO yield up their lives to
feminine vanity. for a hat embowered in
particularly long, rich curling ostrich
feathers. or Haunting its gay velvet bios
sons is far and away more chic and covet
able than any embellishments in bird
wings. heads, or quills- Ii Is true that
brilliant breasts are necessary, and viii be
utilized on many OF the small velvet
toques, and that they cstensibiy once
CLEANED on the bodies Of tropical fowls,
bat this is only a pretty miiliner's fiction,
since nine-tenths OF the most costly and
beautiful breasts are grown in the Ameri-
car bsrnyard. and owe their glowing NE
rallic tones TO the artful dye pot.
Some weeks ago it was made very evi-
dent that more silk would be worn in the
autumn season, and consequently into the
winter, than ever before. and il was also
suggested that the application of cloth in
stitched straps and bindings on the shk
would be another noticeable feature. The
wished-for has come true, and in the black
goods departments of the shops they are
selling the new street silk. soft as faille
francais, but with a surface like peau de
sole, and its name is travellers Joy, for like
the shoes worn in the desert by the chill
dren OF Israel, it is guaranteed never TO
wear out Not only viii Ii be used for
walking and shopping and railway dresses.
and elegantly set OF By stitched broadcloth
and melton bands. but it can be justly util-
lied for ceremonious occasions and en-
belished with the heaviest silk fringe.
- 49,
fringe very seriously. because il y one OF
the forces Of fashion we have soon to reck-
on with. Fringe and cord are bound TO
play the part long successfully enacted by
braid, and one OF the most attractive au-
tumnel manifestations was recently made
by French model for a carriage or calling
gown. Black velvet with large and small
smooth black silk dots showing in the
depths OF its pile, formed the trained en-
forne fiouncs that always falls in limp lux
uriance below every long tunic overdress.
Very little indeed Of the velvet did show.
for the tight oTerskirt came nearly to the
feet. and that was a silk crepon, its sur
face deeply corrugated.
The length OF this top skirt was in
creased by a four-inch deep fall Of Erin
green fringe. fassel fringe pendant from a
knOtted web. On the waist this fringe, in
varying depths. DOrdered the revers,
served an epaulette's duty on the shoul-
ders, feafhered the edge of the collar, and
was followed everywhere by a finishing
edge Of round green silk cord II does not
require very deep search 10 find fringe. OF
one type or another. OF the floss, braided,
sewing silk or feather variety. doing its
beautifying work on the cloth crepe de
chine, and even the ball gowns.
II is 10 be bewailed that bowknots OF
ribbon. as adjunets 10 skirt decoration. are
securing sort OF estimation among well
dressed women. for satin bows. fastened
tere or there on skirt, are in a anoma-
Sous position cups and saucers and
Sinner plates strewn On a wall A bow on
skirt has no defence against the bruises
End crushings il is bound TO receive and
Z grows shaky and shabby while fulfilling
no cffice that another species Of ornament
could not much more ably and tidily occu-
py. However. We do find the bows croD-
ping Up everywhere, and il is the duty of
3 fashion chronicler to report their exist
ence, just as IL is obligatory 70 register the
prevalence for draping plain cloth tunics
over urderdresscs OF spotted velvet asd for
ornarneniing skirts by huttoning I'd the
TUNES from hem 10 hip. with tabs and gay
buttons
Both Of these last are good fashions tina;
deserve all the following they get, and II
is also well worth reporting that many
dressmakers are folding one lapel over an
other on the dress waists and that The
smart new ncckties are worn knotted about
every possible type OF collar. For example
II dress is finished with high choker
collar OF wired lace upon coiored silk. its
owner puts twice round the base OF this q
long scarf OF the fhinnests creme de chin
pulls = IN four-in-hand knot in front and
lets the ends. deeply fTinged and very pos
siblg embroidered, profrnde al the waist
line below the fronts OF her short coat Jus: