davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1899-03-25

is to be hoped that this year it will be worn
as much it deserves. Nor is il trying
when sOftened by white against the skin,
or heightened by black when the wearer is
very fair.
The Always Useful Sailor.
Sailors are normal this year, as will be
seen by the Illustration, which is taken
from the official" sailor. That is the
brim and crown are not out of proportion
TO each other. This is a great help to the
average woman who does not find abnormal
developments in straw at all becomings
There are walking hats galore, and among
the myIiads of shapes and sizes it does
seem possible to find one for almost every
seeker after this useful form of runabout
headgear But no matter what the shape
or size it may be taken for granted that no
walking hat is becoming to a woman with
a little head. She will look oVershadowed
by it no matter how carefully she has
chosen it.
For the woman of moderate purse this is
a most delightful season in many ways.
There are numbers of made straws that is
hats made out of the straw which comes by
the yard or piece. They are crumpled up
into smart-looking little shapes in the
shops by skillful fingers. As it takes little
time the cost Of the whole hat is greatly
reduced.
Nfmble Fingers and Taste.
IHSu d DuucH OF uONerS, a lew wings, q
stiff feather or SO, or perhaps straight
pcmpon, are added and the whole effect has
the touch which is only possible in good
shops. When you price these hats you are
amazed at their cheapness. OF course there
is always the danger that Mrs. Tom, Dick
or Harry will be wearing one of the same
sort. But it takes so little to alter the en-
tire character of a hat. 4 bunch of flow-
ers here or a wing there and the whole ef-
feet is changed. And if that hat is worn
in the seats of the mighty no one will sus-
pect that its clever owner paid a little
price for it, Indeed, it has often been dis
covered by women who were in the con-
hdence of lucky lilies of the field that
knowledge of shopping and leisure to study
shops where moderate prices are asked
often brought TO these fortunate women
many bargains which they could afford to
wear precisely because they knew they
would never be suspected of having any
thing in their possession but French crea-
tons. Thus it is that our lessons in the
right use of money come from those whom
most we envy for its possession.
MABEL BOYD.
Evening star., 1899-03-25
LOw-Necked Gowns,
From the Boston Post.

FROM tne Boston IOSL
The rule of the season so far has been
in favor Of high-necked evening gowns,
but, oddly enough, with the incoming Lent,
women who go dining and to the opera
etc, wear low-cut, short-sleeved waists
almost invariably trimmed with black vel
vet. If the adopter of this Lenten fashion
has fair shoulders this black velvet treat
ment sets them off to admiration.
The shoulder straps and fresh, handsome
bows must be made of dusky velvet, and
invariably loose loop of velvet is allowed
to fall outside the arm between the elbow
and shoulder. Occasionally to this loop is
fastened great rosette of velvet that
seems almost to simulate a short sleeve:
again large, loose-petaled flower is fas-
tened to the loop. and the effect is just
as pretty. If white chiffon or silk bodice
is worn. the black velvet treatment shows
to double advantage, and many women
fasten to the loop below the shoulder a
large white chrysanthemum, or a giant
white silk rose, and the consequence al
ways inspires envious admiration
Evening star., 1899-03-25
Kerosene for the Hair,


A woman recently asserted that the fine
appearance of her hair was entirely due
to a persistent and thorough treatment
with the familiar kerosene of corner gro
Gerry commerce. 1t was applied regularly
once a fortnight in the following way: A
little was poured into a saucer and rubbed
with the fingers into the roots of the hair.
The application was slow and thorough,
the gentle massage of the roots with the
finger tips being needed to open the pores
for the absorption of the OIL The treat
ment was usually made at night, and the
hair afterward tied up in a silk handker-
chief The silk handkerchief Is recon-
mended by hairdressers as useful in re-
tanning the natural electricity of the hair
By noon of the following day the odor of
the kerosene had disappeared, and in an
other twelve hours the oiiness that fol-
lowed its use had also gone The effect of
this treatment on the hair was promptly
noticeable, the falling out stopped and soon
new short hairs were found all over the
head. AS the kerosene application was
continued the hair became thick and
smooth. When, after several months. it
was finally discontinued, abundant glossy
locks replaced the dry and lusterless hair.
the former condition still existing, though
no kerosene has been used for several
years.
Evening star., 1899-03-25
A FLORAL FAD.
Curious Japanese Dwarf Pine Trees
the Pet of the Moment.

From the Philadelphia Press.
Philadelphia florists are going in for a
new horticultural fad, in which none but
the wealthy can indulge. 1t is the impor-
tation of the dwarf evergreen trees. which
come from certain portions of Japan.
The trees range in age and size from a
shrub 100 years old, measuring two and a
half feet, to a plant five years old, doing
itself proud at two inches.
These miniature pines are a thorough de-
light to the art lover They are perfectly
formed and shaped in every detail. Exact
copies of North American evergreen, with
knotted trunk and twisted limbs.
The dwarfing could be done just as well
in this country as in Japan, but our florists
haven't the necessary patience. And small
wonder, for the work of dwarfing often
lasts twenty years. 1t is handed down from
father to son as an industry toward the
daily bread. Our florists prefer to import
the remarkable little green things at good
round prices-wherein lies the bread and
butter OF many a Japanese.
In starting out to dwarf few trees the
Japanese gardener plants several hundred
seeds. When the first green shoot appears
above ground he begins work by cutting
| away a couple of root tendrils, probing be-
meath the ground to find them.
Every plant is treated in this way. Nat
urally, many of them die, but this only
serves to make the living more priceless.
AS often as they can stand it those that re-
| main are stripped of their tendrils.
Sometimes out of the entire crop of sew
eral hundred not more than dozen sur
vive. But this dozen may be sold to the
''purple-eyed Americans" for very large
money. They are worth waiting twenty
years for in land where a days labor is
often worth only a basket of green vegeta-
bles.
Once that they arrive in America the
| many owners Of private Conservatives buy
up these charming trees from the profes-
sional florist.
Naturally it is fad in which only the
wealthy can afford to indulge. 1t is not
| likely to wear itself out by the popularity
that kills.
Evening star., 1899-03-25
THE "PULL-BACK" SKIRT.
Again Coming Into Fashion to Wear
Under CIinEinS Skirts.
From the New York Journal.

FROM tne We" 1oTk JuuTHdl
The skin-tight skirt. known fifteen years
ago as the ''pull-back,' is coming into fash
ion again. The clinging skirt has worked
it's way into favor gradually, and now it is
declared to be the correct skirt of the day.
When it was here before in its most ex-
treme style il was whispered that the bellies
of fashion even went so far as to dampen
their underskirts in order that the outer
skirt might portray more perfectly the con-
tour of the figure. But the modern belle
will not have to submit to damp and chilly
lingerie, for a new undergarment has just
been designed which Is warranted not to
hide a single curve Of the figure.
This new undergarment is made of finely
ribbed woven silk. The upper part of it
looks not unlike a jersey, only it is much
longer. 1t is pulled in the same way,
over the head, and clings to the figure
This sheath of woven SILK reaches as far as
ten inches below the hips Here it is finish
ed with band of coarse mesh lace inser-
ton, through which ribbons are run, which
are tied at the back, drawing the garment
closely to the figure. To this band of lace
insertion silk fiOunce is attached. which
is now all that remains of the ultra fash
ionable wOman's once cherished silk petit
coat. With this remarkable undergarment
the outer sheath-llke dress skirt may be
seen to advantage in all its clinging beau
ty. These garments may be purchased in a
variety of colors, and by their trimmings Of
lace and ribbons may be made eXquisitey
dainty. prominent society woman has
just ordered a half dozen Of these under
garments in different pretty colOrs. One to
be worn beneath gray Venetian cloth gown
is of pale violet woven silk, cut with low,
round neck, which is trimmed with a fril
of lace caught in the center with a rosette
of shaded violet baby ribbon The same
narrow ribbon is run through the insertion
near the knees. The silk fiounce Is of deep
violet peau de sole. trimmed with two ruff
ftes of the same silk, which are applqued
with bands of narrow mauve velvet.
Evening star., 1899-03-25
DRESS ACCESSORIES.
Some of the Necessities That Make
Up u Costume.

From Harper's Bazaar.
During the between-seasons in New York
great deal of attention is paid to the
small "details which have so much to do
with the general effect of q thoroughly
well-gowned woman. What is worn ir the
way of collars, belts and ties is really much
more important than it would seem, it
often happening that the snartest costume
is completely spoiled by little things woful-
ly out of taste or unbecoming. The shops
just now are full of most attractive things
in the way of neckwear, belts and sashes.
Some of these are too glaring to be in good
taste, but the generality of than are most
eHectlVe Ihere Is not much of a high
effect in the ties; the collars also are cut a
little lower, and the neck Is no longer in
cased as 1t was two or three months ago.
A softer look is evidently desired and con-
Sequently generally more. becoming one.
Linen collars are not worn to any great ex-
tent at this TINA of year; they are, how
ever, shown among the spring styles Of
What Will be worn with shr.Waists, many
being on the plan of the mems collars.
Others are made with the little turn-down
edge, just as they have been worn for two
or three years. There are any number of
most dainty little turnover collars in lace,
cambric and lawn, some of these being en-
broidered by hand and edged with real lace.
They are always dainty and becoming and
are worn by young and old.
Inc tleS are very attractive. These have
been seen on some of the newest winter
gowns, made of velvet, satin, moire, satin
velours and of fancy materials. They are
made of the material cut on the bias about
quarter of a yard in width, and tied in an
old-fashioned bowknot with ends, the ends
slashed on in bias effect These, fastened
in the center with rhinestone or diamond
buckle, are a great addition to any cos
tune. They were worn during the winter
principally in black, but for spring will be
worn in colors. They do not go around
the neck, but start from thu side, around
the back being a band of the same ma
terial. Just above this there must be lire
Of white, OF either folded white chiffon or
white lace. Then there are the narrow
double bows of velvet, not over two inches
wide, tied in rabbit's-ear effect; also fasten-
ed with little buckle. These are soms-
times made Of velvet ribbon, either in
bright colors or in black, just as preferred.
Then the lace ties of every shape and de-
scription. not nearly so long as they were,
only long enough to tie in q small bow with
short ends. They are prettiest made of real
lace about an inch wide-ths insertion with
Evening star., 1899-03-25
H 0 u S E HOLD HINTS

Every housewife knows from actual ex-
perience that an hour in the morning is
worth three in the afternoon and that
an hour lost in those same early hours
cannot be overtaken all day, try as she
may. 1t is not always easy to break
slumber's chain just at its strongest
hour, especially if one has been up late
the night before, or has been kept awake
by reason of some ones being I'D late:
but the interrupted nap can usually he
resumed later in the afternoon and the
comfort of knowing that everything is
running smoothly in the home. and that
husband and children think her "blassed."
II they don't rise up and say so, will more
thah atone Tor the wrench of rising when
the pillow feels so comfortable" No one
but mother can set the household machin-
cry moving without single JAR Nobody
but mother can pour the coffee and see
that there is something good for every
one to eat Nobody but mother can look
after the little lunch baskets, that their
contents be both dainty and nourishing
| anu nobody but mother can give the good
| 6ye kiss that rests on the foreheads all
/ day like a benedction.
Happy, thrice happy mother! Even
though 1t involve the sacrifice of that last
| anu sweetest nap that persistently comes
| Just at rising time.
Motners or 'obStrep9rouS' small bows
! the world over will rejoice to know that
the most eminent European oculist after
| investigating the causes of Juvenile blind
| less are advocating a general revision of
chllorens toys, with the elimination of
| those that are dangerous The director
OF the Ocular Clinical School at Breslau
declares that according TO statistics, in
Jury to the eyesight with consequent
| blindness is mostly occasioned by careless-
| less, more than 70 per cent being caused
| by playing with sharp Instruments and
| ~ per cent by malicious injury, such as
| pIoWs stonethrowing, whipping and un-
| suitable means of correction. Similar re-
/ suits are shown by the united statistics Of
| most other clinics for diseases of the eve
| Prot Boissoneau of Paris reports that of
| $50 children to whom he has given glass
eyes. more than $50 wers injured by shoot
| Ing and by the explosion of percussion
| caps He therefore suggests that the sale
| OF percussion caps. powder and explosive
| balls should be placsd under police super
vision in the same way az other children's .
Evening star., 1899-03-25

the lace on either side. The beautiful barbs
that were worn in our grandmothers' time
are exquisite. They are made of point lace
Valenciennes lace-indeed, laces of all kinds
and descriptions are seen in these beautiful
ties. 1t seems a sacrilege to tie these laces
into a bow, but it is done with the careless
nsss that is mark of the extravaganza of
the times.
Ascot ties are very fashionable with the
plain waists in different colors. there are
a good many bright ties seen in the same
design, but these last are not so smart. A
dainty little fad of the moment is to Lave
black satin waist with a colored stock
and buttons and sleeve links to match. A
black waist with purple stock. for instance,
will have amethyst buttons and sleeve
links, or waist with a turQuoise-blue
stock will have turquoise buttons and
sleeve-lnks.
Feather boas are more fashionable than
ever for mild spring days. Black and grey
are both used, the boas being quite long;
the short ones are not fashionable as
they were. The cocks feathers are not
often worn; even the finer qualities IN light
gray have been rather tabooed for some
unknown reason. The neck boas of accor-
dion-pleated mousseline de sole. chiffon or
ribbon are worn to a great extent, but not
with any handsome gowns. They seem to
be relegated to a sort of everyday exist
ence and hard wear. They take the place
of the fur when it is first left off, but are
not very smart.
All belts are much narrower than they
were, and are fastened with small jeweled
buckles, the idea being to have as much of
the princesse effect as possible; the belt is
made narrower so as not to cut the line
between the waist and skirt. Ribbon, silk,
satin or velvet on the bias is used. There
are very few leather belts seen, and very
few colored ones, black being mora used
than anything else The Russian ribbon is
often seen. and is to be used in great guam
titles on the spring gowns. Only narrow
width should be used; but this ribbon
comes only in narrow widths, it is hardly
necessary to emphasize this
Evening star., 1899-03-25
Wearing BrotkerS Gloves.
From the Chicago Chronicle.


Girls are becoming more and more man.
nish in attire, in speech, in desire for amuse-
ment and in the sort of amusement they de-
sire. The latest masculine wrinkle which
the girls affect is masculine gloves, not
gloves made in a mannish style and fitting
the feminine hand, but gloves that are cut
on masculine lines, designed for masculine
wearing and buttoned with the single but
ton that holds together the abbreviated kid
wrist
The gloves are short and square, aremade
OF heavy dogskin and stitched markedly in
White. The fingers are big and clumsy and
the entire glove is almost twice the size
which the girl ordinarily affects The big
ger the glove the more stylish the result
and the ladies' hands seen on State street
or at the dog show recall the children who
play at being grown-up ladies and gentle
men with grown-up gloves covering diminu-
tive palms and fingers. The masculine
glove Is entirely in keeping with the stubbv
ugly masculine shoe.
Evening star., 1899-03-25
MOnogrammed Gloves.
Francisco Chronicle.

From the San Francisco Chronicle.
The monogrammed glove is the very lat-
est thing, and. Of course. 1T is worn only
by the extremists of fashion. To make
the monogrammed gloves you get a pair Of
plain kid gloves, with as httle stitching
upon the back as possible. Black and
white are the best colors. Now mark upon
the back of the gloves your monogram, or
get 1t stamped there. With silk the color
of your walking dress you now embroider
the monogram. making II about the size Of
quarter. You viii find It is very becom-
4ng to the hand, an6 the custom of wears
ing the embroidered glove will grow upon
you until you viii want no other.
Evening star., 1899-03-25
Silk Chemisettes.

From the st. Louis Star.
Nothing is so absolutely certain in max
ing forecasts of coming styles as the pop
ularity of the chemisette. 1t is seen in
the tailor gown, the silk waist, the or
candle or Swiss summer dress.
For the present it is made of tucked
silk, but when the weather grows warmer
1t will come out in thinner materials such
as white organdie or null.
Plaid silk shirt waists are among the
latest importahons. They come in the
boldest patterns and are very stunning.
Red plaid with a red sailor hat will make
a very gay-looking summer girl for the
beaches and boardwalks, but that is
long way ahead.
Evening star., 1899-03-25
Headed Purses,

From the st. Louis Republic.
Beaded purses and bags are more in evil
dence than ever. Silver and gold beads are
used freely, while the effort is made to ini-
tate gems with the colored glass beads
which are worked into purses with the
metal ones. The groundwork is Of silk, in
great contrast to the beaded design.
Richness of coloring is the aim, and the
effect is heightened by the most elegant
mountings, very freely jeweled to match
the body of the bag.
These bags are finished with the fat belt
bag clasps or with the collapsibe round
tops and some even with the sliding rings
of the old-fashioned silk purse, but all are
as elaborate as possible in coloring with
conventional floral design or Persian pat
terms.
Evening star., 1899-03-25
Revival of the POIonafse,
From the Boston Globe

The revival of the polonaise, long threat
ened, is becoming reality. Several exam
pies have lately been turned out in Paris,
and it is possible that Americans will ap-
preciate the mode and take it up. In Wen
ma the poIonaise has also appeared but for
the present it is an exotic. In truth. the
polonaise requires a very good figure as its
effect Is decidedly shortening. 1t may
therefore, prove more acceptable to tall,
slim women than it is to the sprightly but
short Parisienne and to the Junolike pro-
portions of the Viennese.
Evening star., 1899-03-25

which is quite new and odd consists of an
embroidery with fringe, insertions and
short frll of lace.
There is not any need to say much about
the Easter gown, for you will know exactly
what it should be if for the last few weeks
you have been faithful reader of
CATHERINE TALBOT,
Evening star., 1899-03-25
Animal Bangles.
rom the Kansas City Star,

The newest bracelet is exceedingly orien-
tai in design. 1t is. heavy gold ring.
which slips on and off over the hand and is
studded with three gems, Jade stone,
amethyst and coral. Another novelty in
the bracelet line is also heavy gold hoop.
from which Is suspended no less than half
a dozen bangles in animal designs. Pigs,
goats, dogs and horses appear to be the ia
vorites. These animal bangles are also
much used as watch charma
Evening star., 1899-03-25

| have seen in my meanderings among the
great ones of the wardrobe" Very much
turned up at the side was the brim which
was wide enough to cast a pleasant shade
over the face beneath. High on the raised
side of the hat were outstanding loops of
wired lace in a deep shade of cream and
Suipure as to variety. The crown of the
hat was buried in alternate lace and rib
bon. and knot of the latter filled in the
hollow under the turned up brim, which
was itself nothing but mass of cleverly
arranged vioets.
I frankly confessed my lack of admra-
ton for the rough green straw hat which
| was shown as something quite unl1ue.
II looked the uniqueness, l could hedrsity
acknowledge. for a great water lily tr!m-
med the front, while its foliage, Wreathlng
about the sides of the crown, was broken
here and there by clusters of lilies of the
valley.
Some arniable matron with a penchant for
the ingenue role, will, l fear fall owner to
the darling little scoop" that nature and
the miliner never meant to adorn any
thing but the brow of some dainty Cebu-
tante. 1t was of lusterless blue straw,
framing the face with charmingly grace
full curve and with a tilted rim behind A
high bow and knots of blue ribbon trimmed
the front of the hat, with a great bunch of
blue bells at one side and lace filing in the
hollow at the other side of the curve over
the face.
More Youthful Than BOnnets.
Toques are just as well represented as
they always have been. for they are boon
to those elderly women who dread the
descent to the soberly tied bonnet ef mid
die age. The toques may be fairly pictured
from what l have said of other frames and
fabrics. 1 think they are rather smaller
than they have been and are trimmed at
the side instead of full front.
A bit of bonnet for a matronly face
framed with full pompadour roll of hair
could compete in charm with any of the
giddy effects designed for early youth and
unclassified to age or new wOmalhood.
1t was bijou arrangement of lace and
snowdro2s, with a narrow band of olack
velvet to fasten 1t under the chin.
The Very Latest Couture.
1 must tell that the latest style of dress
ing the hair is the Greuze. If you want to
know what the Greuze dressing looks Eke,
hunt up in one of the magazines an old
illustrated article on that artist and study
we'll the coiffures there depicted. There Will
be chic curls, and these will be a welcome
addition to many faces, for few women not
in the first bloom of youth but would he
the better for some softening waves of hair
about the face.
The directoire and 1890 styles. of which
we have had more than our share, are Civ
ing evidences of Withdrawing from public
faEor Hat crowns, for instance, are rnodf-
flying in shape, higher crowns being lEtro-
duced in many of the new shapes.
The fabrics of the Easter gowns to be
Worn here will he of the most delicate
colors. such as grayish green, pale gray
and mastic.
A new cloth with a duh surface that is
being used good deal is pastelle.
Tight Sleeves and Trains
All the newest models in dresses nave a
slight train. with sleeves very tight fitting.
Epaulets. too, when put on. fit the arm.
Evening star., 1899-03-25
There is Nothing Startlingly New
Shown.
TRIMMINGS UNDER CLOUDS OF TULLE
Sailors Retain Normal Crowns and
Brims.
HOMEMADE "PARIS" FINERY
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.

Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
NEW YORK, March %, 1890
The first view of spring hats and borinets
is always most discouraging. After the
felts and dark trimmings Of winter every
thing light and airy looks over trimmed,
and even aside from comparisons one is
tempted to accuse Dame Fashion of over
doing her spring exuborance when It first