The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1899-05-19
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WOMAN'S WORLD.
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successful wearing of a coat which is cut
short a few inches only below the waist
This consolation will take the form of a
fchu, or shoulder scarf, made prefer
ably in lace, but admissible also in many
kinds of soft silk and draped around the
shoulders a la Marie Antoinette. finishing
in front with two long ends, reaching to
the hem of the skirt in front.
There will be many opportunities for
varying this scheme as the season adj
vances. and we may very probably see a
revival of the long, straight shoulder
scarfs in silk gauze, printed with flow
ers, and in Powered muslin, which were
in vogue at the time of the rimea
War.
The revival of the lace Marie Antoin-
cite hchu or silk gauze shoulder scarf
would be quite in harmony with the
craze of fashion in favor of Incroyable
hats and Directeire bonnets, and the
mode is one which admits of many.
charming varieties. 1t is adaptable,
too. to various figures and Amos all oc-
casions.
For summer dress, even with an ordi-
nary summer zephyr or eambric, a menu
in fine batiste, in white muslin of even
in white point d'esprit net. would not be
out of place by any means, and would
give an air of daintiness to the most
severely simple gown.
For afternoon wear. in fine black lace,
they will come as a boon and a blessing
to the middle-aged matrons. who find
coats impossible ard capes too hot and
heavy, and who at the same time strongly
object to venturing out into the street
without some sort of light wrap round
their shoulders.
In this way the Marie Antoinette fichu
will be of great advantage, as 1t VIII aad
immensely to the comfort of the Wearer,
while ft will not take away at all from
the smartness of her appearance. On the
contrary, it will add to it very consider
ably. as a scarf of this kind is sure to be
one of the leading features of the summer
fashions.
For evening dress, too, these hchus
will be very much worn, made in me
net or in silk muslin, edged with lace, or
even carried out entirely in lace, VITA
lace frills and very long sash ends, frIiea
with lace.
For young people with good hgures
these fchus will be crossed in front. taken
under the arms and tied at the PACK IN
a big bow with sash ends reaching to the
hem of the skirt.
For other figures no longer SO young
or SO slim as they were the fichus Will
be sdraped lightly round the shoulders
and then drawn DOWN to a point 4 little
below the waist in front. Here they will
probably be secured with diamond slides.
and from that point they will hang quite
loosely over the front of the skirt, the
long lines thus arrived at giving con-
siderable length and elegance to the
figure.
Embroidered mousseline de sole, or
crepe de chine, or chiffon, are generally
supposed 10 be altogether done with
when soiled, and enormous quantities Of
these hlmsay and expensive fabrics are
wasted every year on this account, but
nothing better sepays careful washing
and a little extra trouble. Make a lather
with best white soap and let it stand
until nearly cold, then soak the ma
terial in if, shake it about and pass it
gently through the fingers for a few
minutes until thoroughly clean, then
rinse in cold water until 1t leaves the
water quite clear. Dissolve a pinch Of
gum arabic in half a, cup of water, add
a few drops of white vinegar and dip IN
the muslin. Put it afterward in a soft
towel and pat it to press The water out
of il. iron at once on the wrong side
only. with tissue paper placed over it,
using an iron that has cooled down a
good deal.
One important point to remember in
connection with the cleaning of colored
embroideries is that you may restore
and brighten the eoloFs by careful wash
ing. but color that has been destroyed
by using too hot an iron can never be
restored by any means.
In washing silk embroideries use soft
water always, adding ammonia only when
the article is greasy, and even then very
sparingly.
When the colors are delicate add a few
drops of white vinegar or a pinch of salt,
or both of these, to the gum water.
Larger pieces of embroidery, such as
do not require the foundation stiffened,
should be pinned on a frame after the
rinsing water has been pressed out of
them; all the parts of the design should
then be brushed over on the wrong side
with a camel's hair pencil dipped in q
thin solution of gum and vinegar The
frame should then be set at once in a
strong current of air, as it is important
that embroidery should be dried as quick
ly as possible.
Worsted and soft cotton embroideries
are best cleaned in bran water baths
Ado one quart of fresh bran to three
quarts of water, and let it boil for half
an hour. then strain, and pour the boil
ings into two basins. Add cold water to
the larger quantity of boilings to make it
lukewarm, put in the embroidery and rub
It well with the fingers till Clean Rinse
In clean warm water, then stiffen the ar
ticle by dipping it into the second basin
of bran water. Press out the moisture
and dry quickly.
Tussere silk embroidery and Holland
embroidered in self colors are cleaned In
the same way, but with hay-seed in place
of bran for the solution.
The ironing process for all kinds of em-
broidery is much alike. The table should
be covered with a thick, soft flannel and
a very smooth sheet, to admit of the en-
broidery sinking in it, SO as to preserve
it from %unsightiy fattening.
When there is much shrinking 1t is q
good plan to begin by pinning the ar
ticle by its edges to the ironing blanket,
wrong side up always. Cover all en-
broidered parts with a soft handkerchief
and iron quickly from the centre out
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