Evening star., 1899-04-01
LINEN WILL BE WORN.

Heavier Qualities to BE Made Plain,
Lighter Ones More EIabOrately.
From Harper's Bazaar.
Linen costumes will be worn very much.
Some of the heavier qualities of linen are
made up in the coat and skirt styles like
the piques, but there are also the thinner
linens like grass cloth. made up very elab-
orately. These last are made with over
skirt effect, and have silk or lawn petit
coat 81 rand also in the drop skirt style, and
trimmed with baffls of heavy insertion. A
smart grass linen gown, with pink and
white satin stripe, has the skirt cut in cir
cular shade, and trimmed with three broad
bands of heavy guipure lace. The skirt Is
cut so that it flares very much below the
last band Of insertion. The waist, which
fits tightly in the back, is rather loose in
'front.' and has square yoke effect. encir-
cled by ruffle of the guipure laca The
lace also edges the fronts Of the waist, and
falls in a jabot on either side of very
narrow tucked front of pink liberty silk.
There is ribbon belt of pink silk, and tied
In at the wrists are little bows of pink silk
showing through the lace ruffies A very
fine grass linen with 40 color is mads VI
over a light green lining This IS trimmed
down the front breadth with rows of lace
insertion. The back is plain, rathe" IN the
circular SKlrt erect, Win no I-itIiCSo III the
back at all, except VIII. = it flares out at
the bottom, but the long petticoat is made
with very full ruffie f1ounce, and is 50
wide that it looks full and yet clinging.
The waist is almost tight fitting, quite tight
fitting at the back and sides, AID in front
is trimmed with lace barbe that goes
around at the back. comes down the front
of the waist. and then is slipped through
two bands of the linen, the ends falling
down over the waist on to the skirt. This
waist has a vest of green liberty silk very
finely pleated A dark blue linen, almost
like a lawn-it is so light in Weights
very attractive gown for travelling or for
hard wear. 1t is trimmed with bands of
red and white Russian embroidery; the
waist is cut in an Eton jacket with long
pointed fronts the fronts one mass Of the
Russian embroidery, and there is a vest of
red crepe CLOTH This is very curious COM
bnation. and is made still more curious by
little row of gilt buttons down the front
of the the jacket.
There are exhibited now striped linen and
dimities- By linens is not meant heavy
weight linen made up into tailor suits, but
those that have a dark ground with a hair
line of white. These are made up in gored
skirts and short jackets, unlined. but faced
with white linen or duck. They are i'm
mensely smart and very useful little gowns,
and look particularly well when worn with
white shirt waists. Then there is a material
quite expensive, by-the-way0 that is made
OF shepherds plaid in cambria, with
cross-band of black on the material. These
are tucked all over in very fine tucks.
This material is supposed to be made up
in skirts to be worn with jackets of plain
black pique linen duck. 1t is a. very
| smart material, and decidedly odd the only
question is whether it will not require
great deal of laundering. 1t looks like
wool material, and is particularly suitable
| to circular skirt. For everyday wear
there are attractive and exceedingly simple
cotton suits These have the shirt waists
| and the gored or circular skirts trimmed
with bands of the same material. In pink
and white striped percale or cambria, and
also in the blue and white and black and
white, they are very pretty. AS yet these
have only been made by one two of the
leading tailors. Oddly enough, the dress
makers have not yet turned them out
They require careful cutting and fitting to
look effective, but will be quite the smart
est of the simplehwash frocks. There are
any number of cheap organdies and figured
lawns that will beovery effective If made up
in an elaborate fashiGh. They do not re-
quire a silk linings BUT look well made up
over lawn. Thesef gowns will be used for
afternoon, and for evening wear as we'll,
They can be trimmed with ruff1es of the
same, edged with narrow valenciennes
lace. -