The record-union., 1899-11-19

~ NJ
of the waist from the throat. Below
shows blouse of rich taffeta, plain or
fancy.
What the English call cloth guipure'
it is also known as cut works. one
of the most popular of the handsome
autumn trimmings for cloth costumes
This guipure in various devices is laid
over cloth of a darker or sometimes
lighter shade, or it may be silk of a
contrasting color, and in this case there
is tiny cord matching the silk which
outlines the various graceful patterns.
But the simpler mode of arranging the
cut trimmings en- applique on the
skirt, bodice and vest, is the easiest
and really the richest in effect. On
all of the French gowns in the gayer
style the entire costume is lined
throughout with silk matching that
which CLEANS through the open de-
vices of the ''cloth guipure.''
The fancy increases for smooth very
close-f1tting skirts without a particle of
fullness; but the fiat, seamless, outlin,
ing habit style is doomed, and in place
of this severe. uncompromising fashion
are brought out models with box
plated backs, with the drapery slightly
lifted, with medium-length pieces of
the skirt fabric set into the sides at the
back en- jabot, or with bands trimmed
with braid and buttons and usually lin
ed with silk of contrasting color
For autumn and winter wear hand
some twilled silks are revived. The
beautiful satin finished surfaces of
many of the new twills are very fine,
while heavier grades are woven in
rather wide diagonals Taffetas of
laurel green, marine blue, Roman red,
Havana brown, violet, dahlia, etc.
have petit pois dots of a deeper shade,
and sometimes an added stripe in raised
satin on the lustrous surface.
Extra length gloves are now required
in full evening dress, longer than have
been necessary for many seasons. on ac-
count of the decided diminution of the
sleeves, the most approved being crisp.
DAINTY, little creations not more than
lour lncneS IN depth on the outside of
the arm Under the arm there is no
Iuiiness whatever, the sleeve dwindHng
to mere point There are also the rose
pun, initiating a full-blown pink. white
or yellow rose, the Queen Bess puff and
the mushroom puff, the sleeve of lace,
artlsucally draped and caught on the
top of the shoulder with a eem-set
buckle; the velvet sleeve-cap covered
with lace en- applique, and the substi-
tute for a sleeve, in the shape of
narrow strap of jeweled passementerie,
spray OF roses, or a number of satin
rlppon loops, or a single band of velvet
ribbon carried over the neck above the
bodice, leaving the entire shoulder and
top OF the arm uncovered All these
Styles require very long glove that
comes TAR above the elbow to meet the
lower edge of the sleeve.
Large hats are still set forth bv all
fashionable milliners. Those of black
beaver, black satin, and black velvet
are all in high vogue. A French model
IN black satin royal has the satin trim
mings stitched with rows of white silk.
and the additional garnitures are of
white ostrich plumes and a large cut
onyx buckle. Some of the newest
toques of fur are of moderate size and
trimmed with bisc and handsome gold
buckles.
From abroad have come some hand
some autumn tailor costumes in deep
roman blue, friar's gray and Venetian
green ladies' cloth, with long, clinging
pf1hcesse backs, in which the center
seam is omitted The fronts are in
short-Jacket form, with vest showing
below, double-breasted, closely fitted and
fastened with handsome buttons. The
entire gown is finished with machine
STITCHED straps of the cloth in a deeper
shade. The only additional decoration
is band of sable tails. which edses
the top of the standing collar. the ends
OF the long sleeves with their faring
cuffs, and the slashed side of the mir
cesse skirt at the left, near the hem.
! other handsome models from the same
source are formed of costume satin
with closely adjusted princesse back.
ana the fronts cut away until there is
hotnlng left but girdle or corselet-
IKE shape, cut in one with the skirt
front OF the gown. The upper guimpe-
IKE portion is made either of brocade
or plated silk.
A recent bride was attired in a demi-
trained gown of ivory-white ladies'
cloth of fine texture. 1t was trimmed
with an elaborate pattern of white vel
vet cut-work en- applique The hat.
en- suite, was white velvet with white
plumes, and a large diamond buckle.
ihere is a great demand at present
Ior brocaded fabrics, handsome mate
lasse silks and satins, for princesse
gowns, redingotes, underskirts. dress
trimmings, combinations Innings for
capes, cloaks, ETC., and for evening
wraps entire.
costumes of heavy black silk. made
with fitted basque bodice and circular
skirt, have very short black satin capes
en- suite, the cape and extreme edge of
the skirt trimmed with black MORE
fur
The wearor Enou-C xx-lac, A. .1.--