The times., 1899-10-01

Problem Is Peculiarly Complfcat-
ed This Scason-Neckffes Variable.
NEW YORK, Sept 3O.-In the bright lexi-
con Of fashion. as published This fall, there
are two or three smart new fabrics whose
names and surfaces We have not seen be-
fore Heather mixture tweed is one and a
very beautiful addition to the cause of
dress. II is a tweed OF uniquely smooth
surface, close woven, and the soft, in
gratiating mauye OF the heather blossom
dominates the grey, brown. or whatever
other shade * is in combination with.
Wool poplin. in any color desired, is an
with, and chamois cloth is the third. There
is a gloss and richness about wool poplin
that few women are proof against, and for
an all around handsome and serviceable
black winter suit, 10 be or not to be trim
med with fur, it simply stands unrivaled.
AS 10 channels cloth there is little use in
explaining its character for it is, in COM
bined wool and silk or wool and jute, the
nearest possible imitation of the dressed
skin OF the lively goat
Most sensibIy chamois cloth is devoted
by tailors and dressmakers to the duty of
trimming wool gowns in straps and stitch
ed on figures, TO waist coats and jacket re-
vers and in the rich dyes that now, by
force OF beauty and popularity, prevail, it
serves IN this wise as an excellent foil to
a dress of darker or lighter tone than it.
self. OF course. with ehamois cloth for an
excuse, the composers Of fine frocks are
giving themselves an admirable opportu-
nifty for converting. with bands and revers
otherwise simple sober. little suits into
wonderfully cheerful costumes, and brown
skirt and rOund-tailed coat, CT zibiline foI
instance. is rendered very festive by tri-
pie chamois cloth bands in rather bright
shade OF mauye down the front of the skirt
Similar bands criss-cross On the cuffs, run
galIus wise over the shoulder and decorate
the round beetle tails of the jacket and the
consequence is something above the ay-
erage in fashionable gowns.
Il can be recklessly but none the less
approximately reckoned that a suffi-
cient number OF sewing machine stitches
have already been run On the new autumn
dresses to send a continuous seam two or
three times around the earth In pa! tial
substantiation OF this estimate let mention
be made OF one Of the attractive knock
about suits just liberated from the sew
ing woman's fingers. 1t belongs 10 the
species OF uniform in which all women
win shop and walk during the winter. with
which various blouses and fancy waists
viii be worn and its only decoration,
whatever il may be made OF. serge, tweed,
or camels-hair, is stitching.
At the bottom Of the petticoat run eleven
rows Of stitching. al the knees seven rows,
between knees and hips five rows and near
the belt three. Does il not almost go with
out saying that this is q lined, not drop,
skirt, and that it fits almost as close as
the bark TO a tree up at hip and waist.
For ali this tbs pretty and useful and you
won't see one woman in q hundred who
is so ruthless as 10 break the line Of her
figure with a leather or ribbon belt to COW
er the hiatus between top OF skirt and bot
rom of shirt waist All praise is due her
cleverness in avoiding any foolish or clum-
sy substitute. What she does is TO let her
machine stitchings run right up 10 the top
OF her skirt and in the top within the lin
ing z buckram reinforcement is slipped
and this gives the top lip of the skirt a
flexible grip on the waist line that is firm
and graceful.
To agree with this arrangement most oi
the good flannel blouses are laid in three
fst-fitted pleaIs behind. Such slight full
ness comes in front that there is no bulk
sness about the waist and where a belt il
used it takes the form CT two very narrow
light leather harness straps held by q long
slender steel buckle in front.
A reference must be made when deal
a Frs
on one gown This has never been done
before. and therefore il is hailed with ac-
claim. Smooth grey cloth suits are making
their autumn debuts al weddings, particu-
lsrly got up" with the aid of broadtai
and chinchilla worked into decoration to-
gether, else Persian paw and mink is used
or Persian lamb and sable. Two lines O.
contrasted furs run along the edges o.
cuffs. CT reverse and tunic bottoms and
very happy effect results from this expert.
ment
Never before has the hat problem beer
as complicated as this season, for there arr
at least one dozen different shapes strug.
Cling for the vogue, and not a single on
has yet arrived al anything like declares
supremacy. Women who can safely in
dulge their preferences at the expense o
their exchequer are celebrating all tn
early fashionable functions in hats Of pur
white felt. otherwise known as Copslines
They have wide Enthusiastically waved brim
after the mode Of the Leghorn and the bacl
OF the hat is left barren Of decoration
while plumes and roses are gathered agains
the crown in front. Directly in the rear o
she most attractive examples Of this specie
their wearers run elaborate jeweled pins
OF at the base of the crown behind, a mon
ster safety pin OF gold or silver, with
large nsatrix turquoise set on its bar, bold
~ makes the felt shape fast 10 the wearer'
head.
Besides this expensive type Of head GOV
ering there are sensible roundabouts Of feI
adorned merely with two large roses mad
Of hemstitehed taffeta and for rough
everyday wear a grey or brown felt som
brero, wound with a Persian patterne
handkerchief is no less the rule than i
the spring.
The neckties have not abated a viii
Of their size OF splendor, and with great
est compiacency, the smartly costumes
woman, who reflects every hourly chang,
Of the mode, ties under her chin broas
white mOired ribbon. fringed along tn,
edges and painted with bouquets of violet
on either extensive tabled end. This. o
course. is trihe excessive, but no less fre
quenrly long scarfs Of cornfioWer blu,
Liberty silk are remarked worn in twt
circles about the neck and knotted on thi
bust rather low down, while long end.
OF cream lace float below the waist line
Every mothers daughter has also takeT
IN keen delight, 10 the collar protector.
sold foT wear with high necked, dark fu
wraps. There is a theory that Persian
lamb. broadtail, etc. when their big eal
nipDers are turned up, viii rub of a shad,
OF their dusky dye on any delicate necl
decoration so that a soft, fun ruche o.
chiffon rufflee In white or a hernrraino col