Evening star., 1899-04-08
Many Shapes, but the Reefer OF
Box Favored.
TAN BEST SHADE FOR GENERAL WEAR
Skirts and Jackets in Same
CoIors Are Good Style.
HINTS FOR CAPE TRIMMINGS
Special Correspondence Of The Evening Star.

Special Correspondence Of The Evening Star.
NEW YORK, April 6, 1899.
This is the season of the year when the
struggle between wants which are half fam
cied, half real-and are wholly in the mind
and the contents of a purse which are
found when counted to be far unequal to
the wants begins. And although the wants
are in the majority and the contents of the
purse in the minority, yet it is the latter
that wins.
For instance, If one can only have one
new spring gown and must choose between
a tunic or a princess, and q coat and skirt
effect, the pros and cons are endless and
the decision is really a serious one. A prin-
cess gown proper does not provide for
spring wrap at ALL One must have either a
coat or a cape, preferably the latter, to
wear with it before the days grow warm
enough to discard extra garments. If one
has a tunic 1t is we'll enough as far as it
goes, for the long coat is of the same ma
terial as the skirt and while one wears that
skirt wrap is provided. But one cannot
delude oneself into the belief that a tunic
or princess coat can be used in the familiar
and convenient way in which short coat
can be applied.
The uses Of the short spring jacket are
legion, and when that jacket is of such ma
terial that not only can 1t be worn with any
gown in ones wardrobe which is suitable
for street wear but it has in addition
skirt to match 1t, the possibilities of eco
nomical and suitable attire endless
Skirt and jacket Suits.
The suitability adaptability and respecta-
bility of the coat and skirt gowns to all of
the ordinary occasions of life is a theme
which should be most seriously considered
by every woman who wishes to dress well
on a small income. And it should be con-
sidered every time she invests in new
gown for the street. Take any coat and
skirt gown, no matter how long one has
had it, and contrast 1T with paSse gown
of the same age which has to be worn in
the street with coat which bears no rela-
ton to 1t. The Shabby gown with the skirt
and coat to match will be found to have a
worn smartness of its own still clinging to
its shabby skirt, while the other will only
look the more dingy when worn with an
outside wrap which does not match 1t, and
therefore throws into relief its shabby lines.
To be sure, some of the coats of this
spring look as if they would not be popular
another year, for they are SO extreme in
cut. But a wise woman will pick and choose
among them and not have her coat made
from model which is so extremely short
| that to fit 1t properly at the waist line
would be impossible. 1t does not take a
very practiced eye to discover which styles
are doomed to die young.
Tight and Half Fitted.
This year there are some spring jackets
which fit very snugly. Women with good
figures should take advantage of this op
portunity of having coat well built on the
| lines of a basque and almost as short. Then
| there are little coats which are half fitted;
that is, the front bias is not taken in, but
the other is fitted to the figure. Then there
are little coats cut up on the front seam
with the edges of the cut rounded off. This
! is one of the newest cuts, but 1t should be
adopted with care. 1t is becoming to slight
figures, but Will not long stay popular il
long, short, stout and thin women all take
a fancy to 1t. 1t Is pre-eminently for young
women with girlish figures. This cut-up
effect. with variations, which have sharp
| points and others with deep cup UP, which
gives a beetle-back effect, are seen in coat
and skirt gowns in endless variety.
Then there is the Eton jacket. When you
read of boleros and want to verify your
| acquired information by practical sight you
will find Eton jackets in endless variety
| So for bolero read Elton jacket-otherwise
bolero heightened to a serviceable length"
For these boleros or Etons reach the waist
| line and in front are even longer, as the
| points flare out
Box Coat in Tan.
The Jacket on which to pin ones faith,
however. is the short REFER or box coat, in
tan broadcloth or covert suiting. 1t is quite
short this year. and one may have either
a fly front or two large white pearl buttons
| made in any good shop. Unless one can
afford a very good tailor indeed it is more
satisfactory to buy a jacket of this sort
ready made. To wear with this have either
chevlot skirt of a small mixed pattern,
or small check or-and this is the latest
fancy-a plaid skirt. The plaid may be
made with bias front with a seam down
the center and the plaid matched down the
seam. or a skirt which laps on the left side.
Skirts tapping on the left side with several
rows Of stitching are new and do away
with a placket hole in the back Doing
away with the placket hole is a good idea,
for that endless row of buttons on either
side Of the placket hole is growing monot-
onous. to say the least And when 1 saw
last week sets of pins for sale to wear on
the placket hole knew its day was doomed.
Stylish and Ready.
With tan coat and a skirt of cheyiot
one Is triumphantly prepared for all in
formal outdoor occasions which will occur
until next October. Until one is leaving
town it will be fresh enough to wear In
the afternoons for ordinary calls. Indeed
it will be very smart il one has with If a
little tOQue of made straw trimmed with a
knob of yiOlets. 1t will be quite appronri-
ate for summer journeys and with shirt
waists of silk or cotton. as the weather NAV
require, the wearer Of this costume is Sc
cure in trim and tailor-made effect on ali
occasions.
The appearance of the princess gown has
given capes a new lease of life. And to be
a. =.