The new dominion. [volume] (Morgantown, W. Va.) 1876-1904, 1899-09-20
A DELIGHTFUL -FOUR.
Mr.. and Mrs. Frazer's Trip to
the North.

They Visit the Maratime Provinces Of
Canada and Take Glance at New
foundland-Quaint and Curious Little
Towns characteristics Of the Natives
Pleasant Review Of a Part Of their
Trip.
To many people the Maritime Prov
inces Of Canada are terra incognita,
and the name Of Newfoundland con-
veys but an impression Of Goldfish
and fog. But so far is this from be-
ing the truth that brief description
of most charming summer tour there
may induce Others to turn their steps
to that cool and health-giying region,
and those who go will return with
host of pleasant memories, and
strong desire to make a second visit.
We left Boston one Tuesday at noon
but owing TO the fog saw little OF The
coast until we entered Halifax harbor
about .. m. the following day.
Halifax is pleasant and pretty town,
crowned by the Citadel, and stretch
ing along the shores Of the beautiful
harbor. The largest ocean going
steamers can come up TO the wharyes,
and the harbor has the reputation of
being the most securely fortified of
any port in the world, the islands be-
ing planted with masked batteries, so
to speak, while the system of subma-
rine mines is complete. In the Pub
lie Gardens the band plays on Satur-
day afternoon, and on that morning
the market place affords profitable
and amusing study OF race types, in
Guiding the French Canadian, the
Indian, the Negro, the Scotch Cana
dian, and many others, all with their
wares and produce spread out to at
tract the marketers. Halifax has a
fine park, which has been wisely left
in its natural state, but excellent
driveways, bicycle paths and foot
paths have been constructed, and
seats placed in picturesque hooks,
commanding lovely views of the Har-
Dor and the Northwest arm, with its
handsome residences.
Our next stopping place was Port
Hawkesbury, in the Straits of Canso,
the southern port of Cape Breton; the
steamer touches there, and goes on to
Charlottetown, the capital of Prince
Edwards Island. This Island is call
ed the "GardeD of the Gulf and IL
well deserves its title, for drive into
the country reveals prosperous farm
houses, with well filled fruit and
kitchen gardens, and an hour in the
market is a trial to ones sense of
economy, for, as one of our fellow
passengers said to US, when we were
exchanging experiences, the fruit and
the ducks and the other good things
are SO tempting and so cheap, that
you find yourself walking off with
your dinner under your arm, in spite
Of the fact that the meals on the ).
S. Halifax were all that could be de-
sired.
And here | must say word about
the treatment we received on this
boat, one of the Plant Line; from
Captain Pye, down to the deck hands,
everyone seems to make it their per-
sonal business to see that we enjoy
ourselves, and as we continued our
trip, we found that this attitude is
characteristic Of Nova Scotians, Cope
Breton folks, and Observation-Disclosures
alike; they are the kindest hearted
people have ever met, and from the
time we left Boston until our return
there, we had not single discourteous
word addressed to as, nor one unpleas-
ant occurrence.
Cape Breton is complete contrast
in scenery to Prince Edwards Island,
the coasts of the latter being rather
low, and the land rolling gently, but
in cape Breton, except in the southern
part, it is much wilder, and even
there the hills attain a considerable
height. We boarded the "Marion"
at Hawkesbury, and, after passing
through the picturesque little canal
Of st. Peters, came out On the Big
Bras d Or Lake, fine body Of water
| in the middle of the Island; thence
through Grand Narrows to the Little
Bras Or Lake, on which is situated
Baddeck, and then through the Big
Bras d Or passage to Sydney, the
capital of the Island. Baddeck is one
of the most charming little places,
quaint, quiet, and beautifully situat-
ed with many pleasant excursions.
One day we went to the Falls, about
seven miles distant, at the head of a
steep gorge, along which one walks
for mile, through shady trees, the
walls Of the glen closing in gradually,
until finally one chambers over the
rocks in the stream, and comes sud-
denly upon the Falls, which roar over
the precipitous rock in tremendous
torrent framed by the pine forests.
Fishing is good at Baddeck, both in
the Bras Or and in the numerous
streams which feed it; the bathing is
fine, (the Lakes being salt,) and one
could stay for month without ex-
hausting the charming walks and
drives. But the sailing is the thing,
and we lived most Of the time in the
boat of the mail carrier, Angus Nor
rison, who was also constable, farmer
fisherman, and probably several
other things, and delightful and in
teresting companion.
1t is the proper thing, when speak
ing of Baddeck to refer to Charles
Dudley Warmers book, which is
charming, and though written nearly
quarter of century ago, still gives
good sketch Of life in Cape Breton
to-day. In the back country one still
comes across spinning wheels, and
many of the people talk only Gaelic,
though their number is growing fewer
year by year. Still, nearly all of
them, even though they speak English
speak also Gaelic, and every Sunday,
after the ordinary service, the Gaelic
service is conducted in the Presby-
terrain church: the singing is very
interesting feature, the tunes being
rather hard to follow at first, and the
wailing cadence reminding one some
what of distant bagpipes.
A sail of about eight hours took US
to Sydney, which with North Sydney,
across the harbor, is rapidly growing
to be very important factor in the
commerce of the Dominion. 1t is
centrally located, has immense coal
interests, here are situated the cele-
brated Whitney mines and though it
is unfortunately not winter port,
increased railroad facilities between
the Sydneys and the open port of
Louisburg, only 80 miles distant, will
soon obviate this disadvantage.
hnr hoo ~ q no., I. I'm,