The times. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1890-1903, 1899-10-01

- form ragged chrysanthamum like
r~osettes on one side OF the bust. WINE
ether ribbons we're laced In and out up
and down In long Princess lines. Al the
bottom of the skirt the scant breadths
broke into a frou-frou Of net and chry-
santhemums. Not q note OF color mus
far relieved the simple. graceful black
but on the LEFT shoulder was knotted q
long. white lace scarf whose ENDS lay up
on the floor. and whose visible Fastening
was a buckle OF magnificent diamonds.
The hat was a toque Of black. twinkiing
net. crushed into shape and decorated
simply with a pair OF small, pointed
black wings so affixed that the points
hung downward TO within an inch OF the
wearer's rosy ear. The very quaintness OF
this effect was an attraction.
A dress OF gray brocade was rather In
Empire style, the skirt embroidered with
steel and gray pearls. and opening IN the
middle over gray chiffon puffed and
friIed. and all drifting. cloudy softness.
THE EMPIRE DRESS.
Empire dress by the way becomes for
evening wear more and more the mode.
A recent successful example Is a gown
of gray velvet lined with green satin. Inc
skirt forms a light tunic dow to the
knees. where it is cut up into deep. point
q indentations over an underskirt pleated
like a fan. A broad border of gold and Sill
yer embroidery edges the tunic, and an
even wider piece of the same jewel work
forms the high waistband. Puts or
gray mousseline de sole form the short
corsage. while the sleeves are double
puffs of velvet and mOusseline.
In these days Of frequent openings re-
turned wanderers from Paris. as well as
5000. 4 laaG.n fIFfr nXn6TfCnnCE 10
the home shops, are repeating a melan-
choly experience Of past years. The great
houses of Paris send out twice a year
model costumes, as they are called. which
go all over the world. The tourist who
buvs an exclusive" creation In Paris
may at any time II her eyes are sharp
find an exactly similar garment In the
first smart shop she enters in Berlin or
Vienna, and again in London when her
home journey has brought her thus far.
II she Derseveres on n tour OF the de-
partment stores after reaching New YORK,
here again she viii see her dress displayed
in half a dozen exhibition rooms or show
windows. To the woman who has not
been victimized by buying a gown when
its French originator 10 selling 70
every buyer for a foreign house as wen
as 10 private customers. the game OF
plchlls lHth SNN N~p-'
citing.
There's a Raudnitz.'' exclaimed a girl
the other morning. Look, that cocoa
brown and %mignonette color! I saw that
in a Regent street shop In London, ana
I've seen It al So and Sos and So and
Sos" She named three New York es-
adjustments. including a FIFTH avenue
French dressmaker's whore Il had paraded
not as an imported model but as original
HUMOR AND FASHION.
With Laferriere. Doucet. Felix. Pa
ouin. all the rest. it is just the same
There are no really exclusive French mo
dels. To those who see the humor OF
New, York's wrangling social sets. an
amusing spectacle was presented at New
mort one day this summer when two lead
crs of the rival factions, not on speaklhs
terms with each other. entered the Casino
,rraved in precisely similar imported cos
tunes, in design. material colorihs
Town 10 the smallest detail, the two ores
es were one. and many a laugh was turn
ed discreetlv into a cough as the 'duie7
after stony glances swept apart from one
another. One Of the women was young
The other had been younger. ana th'
tale VIII be told as long as some or t''
tales of eccentric "Auntie' Pdran.
Tbere is a decided inclination on the part
of an SAX waists and blouses TO retain
the Directoire or Elton Jacket arrangemen
which has been so successful during TN
ummcr. In some blouses the FROM
stand stinly away from the soft fronts "i
chiffon and descend very slightly below inc
belt which confines the back ana UNDER
nortion of the bodice. This style is not
entirely admirable. as the hard fronts
add to the proportions - the waist p"l
,be Jacket blouses are nevertheless very
charming. The little coat IS generally
composed Of a thick. brocaded silk turned
hack with the most wonderful beiaced
revers. though mirror velvet plain or
brocadcd. IS newer; and the most ella
borate examples have a frilling of lace
finishing the jacket at fits hem.
ELLEN OSBORNE.