The record-union., 1899-09-24

There is now a tailor made pelerine.
1t is very simple except at the neck,
where it is heaped with lace, silk mus
lin ruches, accordion plaitings, single,
double and triple, with broad-ribbon
bows or choux fastened here and there.
One button English walking Jackets
will be much used for stout figures this
season, and as they are very closely
fitted, they will add nothing to the ap-
parent size. Like nearly all of the new
models, they are short and remarkably
trim and shapely, the close coat-sleeves
in much better proportion with these
short garments than the sleeves Of
other seasons. Some of the stylish
French shapes are made of black or
dark-green whipcords, with taffeta lin
ings and no fancy trimmings.
The dressmakers are already answer
ing anxious queries regarding the
styles for autumn skirts. AS usual they
are legion, every French designer hay-
ing his own exclusive models from
which his American devotees select. A
ruling shape among the styles seen is
an underskirt shaped with five cores
gracefully fiared on its extreme lower
portion. Above, almost hiding this
foundation skirt, is an overdress in cir
cular form, with a scalloped edge, or
straight edges turned under, or cloth
strapped and machine-stitched in two,
three, five or seven rows of silk the
color Of the cloth
Silk Misunderstanding appears as a
finish on many of the latest French and
English tailor models for autumn wear.
1t takes the place of all other simple
decorative effects rows of braid or silk
gimp not excepted.
French costume suitings, Bradford
crepons in silk and wool, fancy suitings
in camel's hair effects, drap de Paris,
London reps. Scotch cheviots in tri-
color weaves, plaid back, doubIe-fac
eheviots, Shamrock tartans, aH-wool
whipcords, French Venetians and tai
lor checks in two artistic color blend
ings, and a crossing Persian stripe are
among the new fall materials designed
for costumes for utility or deni- dress
wear.
The round waist, which has had such
an undisturbed reign for many seasons
past, will take a place in the back
ground of fashion this season, and its
place will be largely taken by the smart
short-jaclzet models of which there is
no end this fall To the average wo-
man this change is agreeable, for there
are shapes arranged to give more or
less fullness on the open of double
breasted fronts, which are heightened
or shortened to suit the figure. Like
the greater portion of the tailor cos
tunes. redingotes, and open-fronted
princesse dresses, most of the new jack
cts have merely a finish of rows of silk
machine stitching at the edges. The
turn-down collar has a velvet facing
as a rule, but the revers joining it.
and the sleeve edges, are bordered with
straight rows of stitching.
In some of the very handsome cos
tunes of ladies' cloth, bengaline, or
heavy costume silk or satin, a species
of directoire dress has appeared which
is novel and artistic in its ensemble. IT
consists of a very close fitting under
dress. This is made of satin matelasse.
either in rich Persian effects or of
green, brown. or gray designs on a
cream or white ground that is almost
covered by the satin figures. This un-
der-bodice is in one continuous close
fitting length, from neck to hem, and
is untrimmed. Above it is a long.
straight habit-lilze princesse redingote,
open-fronted in directoire style, and cut
out low in the neck, back and front, the
edges finished with circular shoulder
revers of dark velvet Silk fringe the
shade Of the velvet is put on the sheath
like sides and back of one overdress to
simulate three flounces. one row OF
fringe below the hips, one midway OF
the skirt, and one at the hem. On an
other model the clinging outlines of the
straight undraped redingote are left un-
broken, and nothing but the omni-pres-
ent edge of silk machine stitching com
pletes the finishing of the stately gar
ment.
Some of the fashionable modistes are
making pretty shirt waists to replace
those Of the summer season. A large
portion of them are of cream-white
albatross, cashmere, mohair, and sim
liar soft woods, the styles repeating
those worn all summer Other waists
are of brilliant red or Roman or silver
blue camel's hair, but whatever the
color or form of the waist, machine
stitching forms its simple finish.
There is still a great deal of rumor
and discussion about the shortening of
dress skirts for general wear, but not
withstanding the fact that many high
class taiiors and modistes are making
walking-skirts for the autumn consid-
erably shorter than those which have
been universally worn during the sum
mer, the demi-trained or dip" skir.
is likely to flourish again on both sides
of the water. Word has just reached
America through returned importers
that some OF the leading ateliers OF
Paris have declared that they do not
intend to shorten, by even so much as
an inch, the skirts of either their
walking, visiting, or even travelling
costumes, and that with the best au-
thorities of both London and Paris
with the exception of an occasional
Tainy-day costume, or on gowns fof