The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1899-09-10
In THE CITY OF THE SEA
THE DEATHLEss CHARM OF VENICE
DESCRIBED ONCE MORE.
First Impressions of an Indiana Wis.,
itor as He Wanders About the
Picturesque Italian City.

VENICE, Aug. 2o-Resting like jewel
upon the bosom of the Adriatic is the
quaint old city of Venice. IT was once the
pride of the seas and Is still the most
unique and in many respects the most in
teresting city in the world. In the olden,
golden glory of days gone by IL was the
seat of great wealth and learning. 1t con-
trolled the commerce of nations, was rich
in art and was the home of many distin-
guished people. It's influence was felt
throughout the nations of earth. and it was
the most brilliant and charming city in the
old world. But now how changed. Its glory
has departed and its commercial greatness
is only a memory. Yet Venice is still beau
tiful and possesses a charm of which inter-
vening centuries has not and the future
cannot rob it. In fact. time, which has
wrought so many changes since Venice was
in the zenith of her glory, has added many
| charms and beauties to this city in the sea.
| Commerce has been diverted into other
| channels and the wealth and treasure of
| the Orient. which was once poured into the
| lap Of this naughty princess of municipali-
| ties, now goes to more ambitious cities But
! with departed glories has come age and
| dignity. Time has had wonderfully beau
| tifying effect upon these old buildings,
softening and toning them into harmonies
| of shade and coloring that no artists brush
| can emulate. In fact, the charm of Venice
lies more in her gray and yellow walls. ris-
| ing out of the water. where they have stood
| for centuries. than in any other claims she
| may make to distinction. The wind, the sun
| and water have worked wonders upon these
| ancient piles of marble, brick and stone
Ruskin says that in no place in the world
| are there such harmonious blendings of
shade and coloring by the effects of time as
| In Venice. Rising out Of the sea, caressed
| by sun that blazes from an Italian sky as
blue as sapphire. kissed by breezes that
float Ger southern waited from the
spice islands of the Orient Venice is still
the bride of the sea and even more beauti-
full in age than in youth.
This city, which is built in the sea, and
whose streets and thoroughfares are water
ways, was first established by robbers,
pirates and brigands from the coast and
mountain country along the Adriatic. Here.
upon small islands. they built houses and
lection and as place where they might
ply their vocation with less danger of at
tack or disturbance from those upon whom
they preyed. And here. from island colonies
established by lawless bands. grew up a
wonderful city The islands soon become in
adequate for the business that grew and
fourished here. The strategic position at
tracted the attention of ambitious people
of all classes and the commercial import
ance it assumed later resulted in found
ing great city. 1t was then that the
system of putting de~n piling in the shallow
water and mud flats. as foundation upor
which to build business blocks and resi-.
dences, was adopted. And to-day Venice &C.
cupies the unique position of being the only
| city in the world that is built upon the
water. 1t is reached by rail from the west
The road for many miles runs through q
beautiful valley or plain where fields OF
golden grain, orchards of ripening fruit anG
great vineyards. where wealth of luscious
grapes, ready for the vintage, hang ir
purple clusters, delight the eye. To the
north a range of mountains, above which
hangs filmy haze. forms a background
to the beautiful picture.
FIRST IMPRESSIONS.
We arrived in Venice in the evening jus
as the sun was sinking behind the purple
peaks of the Apprentices. AS the train APP
| proaches the city seems to rise suddenl,
out of the sea, and the sensation was lik
that Of coming suddenly upon a beautifu
mirage in the midst of a desert. 1t is 81
strange. so weird that you wonder If it i
! real
Passing from the railroad station you ar
, upon the banks of the Grand canal. Han,
; your baggage to the hotel porter, step int
one of the hundreds of gondolas that ar
in waiting and you are soon gliding swift
but silently through the streets. You set
tie down among the cushions naturally
lazily, comfortably. And this is Venice
There is no rumbling Of truck wagons o
vehicles over paved streets; no sound I
= distract or annoy: no roar of traffic or clat
I. ter of horses feet; nothing to disturb tn
reverie into which you find yourself drift
2 ing as the soothing effect of the rockin
r gondola takes possession of you. You seer
, to have been suddenly transported to fairy
5 land, and you feel that delightful sensa
ton that comes to the Venetian visitor
> A good dinner, supplemented by a bottl
: of Bordeaux. and you forget the fatigue O
& travel. Then the gondola, the Grand cana
and Venice by moonlight. The August fu
2 moon is gliding the scene with flood G
e silvery light. clarifying it into picture O
$ enhancing beauty. The tower of Sa
Q Giorgio looms grandly in the moonlight, tn
a campanile in San Marco towers high abov
Q steeple and dome: hundreds Of ghostlik
y lamps and lanterns glow and twinkle upo
the canals as the gondolas glide over tn
s waterways. Gayly decorated craft locat
$ the serenaders. The music Of guitars an
: mandoiins and the voices of the singer
4 come in silvery strains from far down tn
s canal. Grand old palaces and beautifl
e buildings seem to rise out of the water a
: around and about. AS you nestle down
2 little closer among the cushions you gaze U
h at the twinkling stars and dream Of tn
r grandeur and departed glory Of delightfl
r Venice.
a The music of a band comes floating on
a I upon the evening air and you direct tn
$ gondolier to San Marco. You step from tn
I landing on the Grand canal into a seen
!. that Is as gay and brilliant as the one 20
e have just left is restful. quiet and comfor,
A ing. San Marco square, or piazza, is th
4 center and focus Of Venetian life. 1t is
: great square in front of San Marco Churc
: and surrounded by the Doges and other pa
aces. It Is paved with marble and ston'
j, and upon either side are cafes. And 1t
= here that Venice comes In the evening I
. enjoy the concerts by hne band. to 81
!. coffee and other beverages, mince ices. visi
! | gossip and stroll 1t is here that this cit
|, of the sea is seen at her best. Thousand
: of people throng the great square, and II