The Portland daily press., 1899-03-24

Ex-Msyor W. W. Cutter, of westbrook,
who has returned from n trim In the south
of Europe tells to the PRESS the follow
ing of the lands he saw:
A personally. conducted tour, through
any country Is virtually n synonym OF
"hying trip and affords an individual
but glimpses of the land and Its people.
To sight-seer from America who begins
his tour" with Genoa and skins down
the western side of Italy via Rome 20
Naples and then turns in his tracks to
come north again gradally bending TO the
eastward by the way OF Florence and
bologna to Venice, there comes reallz-
ing sense OF the wonderful difference in
character Of ths subjects OF King Hum
bert. The northern Italians are thriy-
ing, pushing, energetic people. while their
southern compatriots-tbe Neapolitans-
are an ignorant, beggarly, and dirty
crowd.
Genoa is appropriately named The
superb" 1t rises najesticaily from tn
blue waters of the Mediterranean, and
with It's back ground of terIaced hills COW
cred with olive groves, 1t presents to the
spectator sailing into its harbor, most
beautiful picture. Its streets in many III
stances rise one above the other-and the
first story of the houses on one street looks
out over the roofs of the houses on the
streets with the high stone buildings of the
old section Of the town are an element OF
attractive picturesqueness, while the
broad avenues and tine residences of the
newer portions of the city show evidences
of thrift and wealth. Its piers loaded
with merchandise and its harbor filled
with shipping gives 1t a mercantile aspect
The peope have an energetic, stirring,
business like and prosperous air about
them, The city is jewel set In the fair
Italian land; and Florence, Bologna,
Venice and Milan are like unto 1t, all
thriving and. prosperous communities.
Florence, rich In its treasures OF art and
the Mecca of many an American 8 udent
and the permanent residence OF large
Anglo-Saxon colony, has thriving man
ufacturiug suburb. AL. these cities OF
northern Italy are Developing different
industries and are showing most co =
mendable energy and thrift.
The best street car service In nll Italy Is
the American electric trolley system at
Milan.
but what shall we say Of Naples with
its hordes OF uwashed ard unkempt
people, lis multitude of dirty and repul.
sive beggars, and its many narrow and
filthy streetsg Its beautiful situa-
tion and its soft air lose much OF their
charm in hespresence of SO much squalor
and begxary.
Naples is city of many people. They
overflow from the houses into the narrow
streets and the sidewalks seem to be the
seats of the household gods, Tor here Is
carried on all the work of The family
cooking. washing, making the nhildren's
toilet Emitting, sewing and gossiping.
Bare headed and ragged children scurry
in and out among the pots and Kettles
that line the walks.
herdsman drives up a fiockof goats
and the mater families negotiates Tor u
IN. ..-t d. fF.s.Vt kO
udder of the goat then and there. This
manner of delivery leaves no question of
the purity of the tactical fluid and makes
the office of inspector of milk supertiu-
Gus one.
There Is yet some hope for Naples as in
what were particularly crowded ami filthy
sections OF the city tho government has
removed the old buildings, cleaned out
the filth, driven the population to other
quarters and constructed few broad and
beautiful streets.
The section of country between Naples
and Rome embracing as IL does the
broad, fertile valley of the Volturino, Is u
most attractive and beautiful land, COW
cred with vineyards and dotted with
pistach trees across its level plains to the
foot CT the Appenine hills.
The central Thought of the European
sightseer, about which cluster nearly all
his memories of ancient history, Is to
visit Rome. Consequently TO him all
roads lead to the Eternal City" The
Rome of today is strange mixture of
modern. progressive, non-artistio and
practical development, an ancient, beau
tiful and picturesque ruin of the monu-
meuts of its former glory. Since the ill.,
coming of the Sandman king as the ruler
of all Italy and during the reign of his
successor. Humbert. Rome has been
modernizad in a large degree.
There are in the 364 churches of Rome
all well and carefully kept-and many
of which are rich and magnificent In their
decorations-numb erless works OF art in
statuary and paintings that attract the
a verage traveller and numerous relics
that are of deep interest TO the faithful
The maqnificence and architectural
beauty OF st. Peters appeals to tho dullest
imagination.
The four great Patriarchal churches of
Rome in which alone the Pope can con-
duct the services and each of which con
tains door-Porta Santa-that is
opened but four times in a century by
the Pope himself, are ST. Peters, St.
Paul, st. John, and Santa Maria Mag
giore. These churches as was explained
to us by our guide-a rare genius, an
Italian, whose liberties with the English
language We're only exceeded by his
knowledge of Roman history-were those
in which the people prayed direct to the
Savior and the Father. This ''Ferguson"
AS he, according TO his own account was
the guide OF a celebrated American gen.
tleman, mir. Marco Tuano," years ago
was most enthusiastic admirer of
Garibaldi, whose great equestrian statue
adorns the Janiculum hill, and whose
figure in marble or bronze can be seen
in some public square IN every city in
Italy.
To the student of art the great galleries
of the Vatican contain rare and priceless
treasures. The travelling public come to
see these wonderful works in throngs, and
of this multitude at the present time fully
TIRES quarters are Anglo Saxons.
In travelling through Italy one needs
only to be able to speak good English and
he will he readily understood.
The excavations that have been conduct
cd on the Palatine hill in these later ear
brought to light the vast ruins of the
palaces of the Caesars. This is now a