davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun., 1899-10-01
FRILLS or Fd6HIOS.

Lace and chiffon boas are the iashionab ble
fancy In neckwear. for the first cool days before
| furs are in order. but the former are easily
made by sewing lace edging slightly gathered
around a silk cord so that each row will lar
| we'll over the other. The lace winds around to
| the ends like the grooves in a screw. falling
each way from the middle OF the back. Little
| shoulder capes OF these same gauzy materials
| made with long stole ends. are also a pretty
novelty. and the truly fashionaol feather boa.
| are either gray or white.
Deep plum. garnet. gray and tan are the
fashionable eolors for Goth and velvet gowns.
yelvets. both plain and fancy. are to be very
much worn.
Narrow bands Of fur. and especially sable.
are prominent feature OF dress trimming for
RauzV evening gowns as well as velvet and
cloth costumes.
Long. black kid gloves are worn with the
black evening gowns. which. by the way. have
been very popular this season with matrons
and maids alike
and shaped like a serpent doubled in one dee p
loop. is one OF the seasons novelties
qualities OF soft foulard while it is much
heavier and more suitable for gowns than the
hlHu'
Collar bands on the new gowns are built
very much on tho lines OF those worn during
OF the ears. or finished with modest little tabs
Or irlIls OF lace at the back. There are ali
kinds and conditions in the combinations en-
hardly possible to 20 amiss. Lace and silk,
sSs "a nHs . * SGe snS vev. IL tiny ons sGhd
with M stitching; eolored satin eSyersd WITH
some OF tho variations OF this especial portion
OF the costumes.
Plaid silk Innings appear in some OF the
wool dress skirts.
The idea for the disposition OF fulness around
the hips. promised for the immediate future
and already In sight, Is an overdress with box
plaits beginning at the waist on either side OF
There Is iIs,l. space be,wesn these @ piSits ft
and they are caught down fiat nearly to tho
French flannel petticoats with silk flounces
below the knee must appeal to the average
weather. and still another innovation in the
underwear department 10 an under petticoat
OF balbrlggan. with ruffies OF embroidery at the
edge.
Black ribbon velvet 10 well up in the li:t Of
Il shs OF t.
and bands as the case may be.
Gold buttons with mock gems OF various
kinds and colors in the centre. arc used on
some Of the elegant costumes. and again We
see small gold buckles at the ends OF bands OF
fancy braid put on the bodice. cadet fashion.
from either side OF fancy vest.
Round handkerchief embroidered with your
favorlte flower is the latest fad
DIuck velvet embroidered in Oriental designs
with gold braid and colored silks Is used
effectively for yoke collar and vest OF an I'm
ported gown OF old rose red cloth
The back In many n cloth bodice is made
quito plain without any seam.
Long eloaks and cloaEs in the old threo-
quarter length are the special features among
the new wraps. Cloth and velvet arc the lead
The sun., 1899-10-01

and various openwork insertions put In by
hand so popular during the past season.
In new materials cropons in beautiful color
inEs figure largely in the shops. but arc rarely
seen among the imported gowns. Cloth In
light colors and velvet. either plain or closely
covered with white pin spots. and sort OF q
wool material resembling serge with little
roughness on tho surface. are the leading
fabrics for winter gowns with chiffon lace. and
elegant brocaded silks for evening wear.
Hand painting is an element OF decoration on
the new silks. and we find them in bright tints
covered with a conventional design OF white silk
The sun., 1899-10-01

cred with band OF velvet in some
pretty contrasting shade with narrow bunch
OF sable at the upper edge. The over skirt. In
this particular instance, is cncircled from waist
to hem with wide bands Of heavy lace inser-
ton. either Russian. point de Gene or Rupure.
with an edGinR three inches wide to match
sewn on almost plain at the lower edge Of each
band. The spaces between this trimming are
wide, 80 that three bands are quite sufficient.
They are arranged In wide waved lines form
ing shallow scallops. which make a much
prettier effect than straight rows. The same
lace In narrower width encircles the bodice and
The sun., 1899-10-01

three inches wide. made Of embroidered panne
or silk. falls around the shoulders IA finish
This bolcro ls not necessarily separate jacket
for 1t lie the effect which is required and the
material is made fast to the lining quite rs II II
were any other sort OF bodice except that the
lower edge is folded under to give II the
appearance OF Jacket. Another novelty is in
the little square tabs falling below the belt.
These are chiefly seen in the lace waists, the
tabs being OF lace without any lining, and a
pretty effect Is made by stretching narrow
belt In and out Of these tabs so that some fall
over and some under the band. Thore are
The sun., 1899-10-01

an elegant evening gown. tea roses with dsli-
cato green leaves being the special design.
Spangled gowns seem to have gained favor
II only to accentuate the extravaRant ten
denotes OF the day, for they are more gorgeous
than ever. The latest novelty is a costume OF
Renaissance lace in cream. and rather O coarse
pattern. elaborately spangled with Jet following
the lace design, and made up over white satin.
Fringe. which has been tentatively on the list
OF trimmings for year. seems to have an
established place this season. and you fnd 1t
in cream color combined with cream lace for a
skirt trimming in all coors used in various
ways and particularly as q finish for sash ends.
and soft ends OF rosette bows In silk and panne
The sun., 1899-10-01
RICH WINTER OUTFITS.
Extravaganza Displayed in
the Imported Gowns.
DIVERSITY IN the SKIRTS.
Later Ones More Full Than the
Present Eel.Skin Variety.

New Effects in the Over Dress-sleevcs Close-
Fitting with Very Little Fulnsss ut the
Top-Ths Bodice n Varied Work Of Art
New Bolsros Very Attractive - Many
Novelties in Finish and Decoration
Lace Much in Use-The New Materials.
II the early display OF imported gowns
brought out for inspection by the imp porters 10
Q definite declaration OF fashion for the coming
season. then It 10 safe to conclude that every
conceivable phase OF extravaganza. quite be-
yond nything we have had before, will domi-
The sun., 1899-10-01

the belt. Directly in the back is one box rlait
quite fat. from which the folds fall in pretty
with the fullness below. The special peculiar
ity OF this model is the tucks, which commence
two or three inches low the waist at either
side OF the front and e tend down to within
three or four inches OF the hem. At the top
they begin with the narrowest possible width
and gradually widen to an inch and half or
two inches In width ut the lower edge. The
spaces between are not more than two inches
wide at the top. but widen to fully five at
tho end The edges OF upper and lower skirt
are finished with plain hem.
The new sleeves are very close fitting with
very little funess at the top, but they claim a
goodly share of the trimming all the same
They are tucked. encircled with rims Of laco
insertion or embroidered according to tho
kind OF material used. Tho entire sleeve Ia
decorated In very many cases. but again tho
The sun., 1899-10-01

meet directly In the centre and in either case
they are caught down little below the waist
to give the fiat effect which has been so deslra-
bic for the past season.
Another encouraging g feature is that the skirts
OF street gowns have less train than those woi n
during the summer. They are not short In the
sense OF clearing the ground but there 10 a
tendency In the right direction. Some OF tho
tailor made skirts barely touch the floor all
around. while the more dressy cloth gowns
have two three or four added inches. as you
like. Dressy gowns. and evening gowns in
particular are all provided with the graceful
train which Is their righttul prerogative. and
all skirts are full and fiaring at the bottom.
The over dress or dou BILE skirt effect in various
forms and modes OF treatment is a leading
STYLE made very effective by using two
msterials or very elaborate decoration. For
example an upper skirt OF light cloth is cut to
The sun., 1899-10-01

every kind seems 20 be in fashion. especially II
1t is real. Point Ge Gene, cheaille. and gupuro
in Honton aud Venetian designs are more
beautiful than ever and more generously en-
ployed A wide nounce OF lace around
the lower skirt with an over dress OF
cloth. velvet. silk or crepe do chine,
is not unusual among tho new models of dress
gowns. and j. especially effective in hcavy
lace. 1t is cut out Of tho a,!-over lace. shaped
very little in circular form. SO it needs little
II any, fulnesS Mt the top. and finished with
narrow edge to match or plating OF net
edged with narrow ribbon. Rich heavy cream
lace forms a finish for drcssy wraps. falling
like nounce from the edge. over plated friI
OF chiffon matching the garment in color. Iaco
insertions are applied to cloth MS well as the
thinner materials ui summer and npp!quGs OF
lace in cream. white or back arc everywhere
For waists. lacO designs ar. applied
to tafleta silk, which il cut oIt over -
not under - The lace and finished around
the edgos with n small sk cord matching the
silk in color This Is used in n sort Of open
braided design III lag in between the lace me-
dHllions, and the entire bodice is covered with
this work. Another effective decoration for
design. cut out Of the same silk and applied on
white satin, In pink. blue or yellow the effect
is very pretty, The leaves arc finished. like
the lace. with silk cord matching the silk in
color. and some OF the open spaces are filed In
with an openwork stitch ot embroidery silk,
also the same color. CordlnGs and feather
stitching worked In on the machine are also q
feature OF decoration, with the hemstitehiDg
The sun., 1899-10-01

nate the fashionable world The woman who
said. give her the lu1uries OF life and she
would get on without the necessities" has q
very com prehsnsive grasp on the present situ-
alton. and will be wise to adopt the idea as q
rule for action In selecting her winter outfit
II che would be at the head and front OF the
nice in dress. There may be an Elusive air OF
simplioity about some OF these very attractive
models but careful examination reveals ex-
auisits beauty In the detail OF finish and deco
ration. unlimited needle work OF various kinds
end an elegance Of materials which precludes
all possibilities Of sim mrlicity in price
One OF the distinguishing features OF the new
fashions 10 the diversity in tho styles OF skirts
and over dress effects. which no doubt will be
warmly welcomed by those who have objected
20 strsnuously to the eel-skin variety. How
ever. this style Of skirt is cons spicuously in
evidence among the models In spite OF the fact
that there are later styles with the correct
fulness at the back. This Is arranged chiefly
in box pIats about two inches wide. either
one. Or two. 80 you fancy II two. they should
The sun., 1899-10-01

ing m terials used. and the long coat is partiay
fitted in the back and falls quite loose in 'front.'
fastening well to one side. These arc lined
with fur or atin and have three short canes in
graduated widths around the shoulders. The
three-Quarter length garment is 2 care or u
coat, as you prefer. made OF black velvet or
black cloth with a short double cape around
the shoulders. and rsvers the edges all stitched
with white.
The sun., 1899-10-01

list. which is q long one. and there is one o
white tafreta with bands OF white. stitched with
blue for finish and tucked turquoise blue
silk flling in at either side OF the front. the
stitched white band forming the edge
The sun., 1899-10-01

cord, filled in with til" painting in delicately
shaded tints. Hand painted flowers in cloth
and velvet. outlined with gold cord. are ap-
piled to heavy lace forming the over dress OF
The sun., 1899-10-01

sleeves. Another style OF over dress. which is in
deed a novelty. 10 shown In q velvet gown and
seems to be cut in a circular or bell shape.
which makes 1t Mt the hits closely little below
The sun., 1899-10-01

Black velvet embroidered in Oriental designs
with gold braid and colored silks Is used
effectively for yoke collar and vest OF an I'M
ported gown OF old rose red cloth.
The sun., 1899-10-01

Long eloaks and cloaEs in the old threo-
quarter length are the special features among
the new wraps. Cloth and velvet arc the lead
The sun., 1899-10-01

The back In many n cloth bodice is IN ade
quite plain without any seam.
Mesa free press. [volume] (Mesa, Ariz.) 1892-1901, 1899-12-01
WIN TER IRRIG ALTON.

From a late bulletin of the Arizoua
Experimental Station we CLEAN the
following: "The object of the expert
nent was to ascertain how much
summer irrigation light be rendered
unnecessary hy the application of an
abundance Of water during the winter
The orchard selected was irrigated by
the furrow system eight times from
December to March. The last irriga-
tion, during the latter part of March
was an especially thorough one. AS
soon as the soil was thoroughly dry,
to check evaporation, it was narrowed
crosswise of the furrows, and was cul-
tivated twice and plowed and har-
rowed once during the next throe
months. During the latter part of
June the orchard was given a light
irrigation, but received no more irri-
eating water during the remainder of
the season. The conditions above
ground were very satisfactory. The
trees grew thriftily and maintained a
vigorous appearance throughout the
season, The trees were well loaded
with fruit, the peaches and apricots
being larger than the previous year
when the orchard was irrigated fre-
quent!y during the simmer. The
quality of the fruit was excellent. At
the close of the season, though having
received but one irrigation since
March, rhe trees were in 6ne condi-
ton. The results Of this experiment
indicate the value of filing the soil
with water during the winter"
Mesa free press. [volume] (Mesa, Ariz.) 1892-1901, 1899-12-01
RABBITS in BELGIUM.

The breeding of domestic rabbits
for the purpose of food and for ex-
part is mere or less common with the
Belgian peasantry, and in the eprovince
of West Flanders they are raised in
such quantities that thousands of
dressed carcasses are shipped weekly
to She London market. The import
If rabbits from Belgium into the
United Kingdom during the past five
years have averaged $4,000 cwc
yearly, of the estimated value of
$l,l7O, 900, and it is calculated that
this weight represents an annual ship
ment of about 100000 dressed
rabbits.
Five kinds Of domesticated rabbits
are bred in Belgium namely the
ordinary Flemish, the Flemish giant,
the Russian, the silvered and the
Angora varieties. The native rabbits
of Belgium, when wild, are very small,
and do net exceed three pounds in
weight, and their skins, while of ex-
cellent quality, are too small to o'be
profitable for manufacturers of hat
ters' fur. The ordinary Flemish do
mesticated variety is the Belgian wild
, rabbit, improved by careful breeding,
It's live weight ranges from six ia
eight pounds. Large numbers are
killed for Belgian consumption about
Easter time, when they are four or
FIVE months of age, and their dressed
weight is FROM three to four pounds,
The rabbits are bred in cages OF
Mesa free press. [volume] (Mesa, Ariz.) 1892-1901, 1899-12-01
UNDER ITS INFLUENCE.

One of the most remarkable surgical
operations ever performed outside of the
great cities of New York and Chicago, in
this country was successfully executed
upon Mrs. Charles Mustard in this city
by DIR. w. @. Robbins, assisted by DIR.
Thomas. For some time the lady has
been under the doctors treatment and
an operation has seemed inevitable, but
Mrs. Mustard had q horror of the use Of
any anesthetic until Pro-. Griffith ex-
hibited his abilities to hypnot.se subjects
in this city. Then DR.; Robbins sug-
gested to his patient sufferer that she
might be placed under the influence snd
have the operation performed with but
little it any pain to her and no danger
of any serious results from its use; its
failure meant no inconvenience nor
would it in any way interfere with her
condition. So it was decided to try
Prof. Grifflths hypnotic powers in behalf
of the suffering lady. Yesterday she
was placed under the remarkable in-
fluence of hypnotism, and while in a
trance in which while conscious Of
everything going on about her, she
underwent the trying operation without
any shock to her nervous system or any
more pain than what she endured In her
condition daily, prior to the operation.
The operation was great success
Gazette.
Mesa free press. [volume] (Mesa, Ariz.) 1892-1901, 1899-12-01
A NEW DENTAL COLLEGE.

The California College Of Dental
Surgery opened its first course OF
lectures on the 53rd Of October, with
an address delivered by Professor
David Starr Jordan, President of the
Leland Stanford Jr., University. The
speaker was introduced by DR.. s. W.
Dennis, Dean of the College.
As DR.. Dennis organized and was
Dean of the Dental q Department Of
the University of California. for sew
eral years, it would appear that his
experience would sqqalify tAisa. J. smi-
nently, for the new school, as well as
the position he occupies..ssas Dean or
Chief Executive Officer.
Mesa free press. [volume] (Mesa, Ariz.) 1892-1901, 1899-12-01
ACETYLENE GAS.

Be independent of gas and electric
light corporations and own your 9wp
lighting plant. The National Genera-
tor does not have to be cared for
oftener than once in Is days. Itis
positively safe and is recommended
by all insurance boards. We light
residences, churches, stores, factories
and towns at 40 per cent. less than
other systems, with double the IL
Elimination. To responsible parties
will ::ship machines on 80 days trial.
Send for free booklet on Acetylene
Ga. We want good agents.
NATIONAL AcETYLENE GAS Co.,
Buffalo, N. Y
Mesa free press. [volume] (Mesa, Ariz.) 1892-1901, 1899-12-01

A Washington dispa ch of late date
says: commissioner Wilson of the in
ternal revenue bureau has decided an
question relative to the
taxability of the transfers of mort
cages, both chattel and real. Com
missioner Wilson takes the view that
if the mortgage was stamped when
6rst given, it is not suhjec! to the
stamp tax. He rules that Congress
intended only to tax the express as :
signments and transfers or mortgages
and hot those that were merely I'M.
riied ''''
Mesa free press. [volume] (Mesa, Ariz.) 1892-1901, 1899-12-01
THE CARNIVAL.

The Carnival will open at Phoenix
next Monday, Deo. 4th and continue
for four days
The time Of the big parade has been
set for Monday at II O'Clock a. m !.
and is to be followed closely in the
afternoon by the competitive military
dill. A large number of the secret
orders will parade.
Reduce d rates will be given on all
the railroads in the territory. Phoenix
will certainly be. the centre Of a,tra,
;. : >5Eh
tion next week.
Mesa free press. [volume] (Mesa, Ariz.) 1892-1901, 1899-12-01
TELL YOUR SISTER

A Beautiful Complexion is an impossi-
bility without good pure blood. the SORT
hat only exists in connection with gotd
digestion, healthy liver and bowels.
Karl's. Glover Root Tea acts directly on
the stomach, liver and kidneys keeping
them in perfect health. Price 25 cts,
and so cts. For sale by J "a. Barnett
Druggist.
Mesa free press. [volume] (Mesa, Ariz.) 1892-1901, 1899-12-01
ON EVERY BOTTLE

OF Shiloh's Consumption Cure is thi
guarantee: "All we ask of you is to use
twothirds of the contents of this bottle
aithfully, then if you can say you are
not benefited return the bottle to your
Druggist and he may refund the price
paid" Price 25 cts, so cts. and 500.
For sale OY ]. FL. Barnett, Druggist.
Mesa free press. [volume] (Mesa, Ariz.) 1892-1901, 1899-12-01
MILLIONS FOR A GLIMPSE OF
SUNLIGHT

In thess.Decenber number of ''The
National Magazine" is an interesting
article regarding the blind millionaire
merchant of New Nork, who offers s7a
million dollars to any one who can re
store his eyesight. The writer says:
"a quarter of century ago it was
lawful to imprison C man for debt. 1t
was an absurd and impracticable law,
and Charles Broadway Rouss hap
pened to he one of its victims. On
the wall sof one of the cells Of the
debtors prison, Ludlow street Jail, in
New York, the following inscription
may be traced to.,..this day: when I
leave here I.shall become a rich man.
l. was cut into the stone by Mr.. Rouss
who was suffering temporary durance
vile, rot for anyskind of crime or mis-
demeanor, but simply for debt, and
'hc most honest form of debt, at that
''Frue to his self made promise,
Charles Broadway Rouss became a
rich man. Now, six times a million
airc, he owes no man a penny and
none owe him. Years ago he burned
his ledger and learned to Say no,
neither asking or giving credit. He
accumulated the greatsr part of his
fortune, dollar by dollar, in buying
every kind of merchandise at bargain
prices, and selling the same at small
profit. At his Broadway stores you
can buy anything from sponge to an
anvil. This big shop is tbs head
quarters for Mr. Rcuss' 10000 shops,
which form chain around the earth. I"
Mesa free press. [volume] (Mesa, Ariz.) 1892-1901, 1899-12-01

You assume no risk when you buy
Chamberlain's Collie, Cholera and Diar
rhcea Remedy. J. w. Baily. Druggist
will refund your money if you ore not
satisfied after using it. 1t is everywhere
admitted to be The most successful
remedy in use for bowel complaints and
the only one that never fails. It Zig
leasant, safe and reliable. a4-3m
Mesa free press. [volume] (Mesa, Ariz.) 1892-1901, 1899-12-01

Did you ever shear Of the man who
was too economical to take his home
pager, but sent his little boy to hor-
row the copy taken by neighbor ?
In his haste the boy ran over two
dollar stand of pees and In two min
utes looked like warty summer
squash. His cries reached his father
who ran to his rescue and failed to
natice the barbed wire fence down,
cutting handful Of fish bait out Of
his anatomy and running four dollar
pair O shoes. The old COW took ad--
vantage of the gap in the fence, got
out and ate forty cents of alfalfa and
died of bloat. Hearing the racket the
wife ran out, upset four gallon
churn of cream in basket of kittens
and drowned the whole mess. In the
hurry she dropped and broke seven
dollar set of false teeth. The baby
being left alone, crawled through the
cream and into the parlor, running a
new carpet. During the excitement
The oldest daughter ran away with a
book agent, the dog broke up eleven
T.
setting hens and all the calves got out
and chewed the sleeves off of four fine
shirts which hung on the line.-Ex.
Mesa free press. [volume] (Mesa, Ariz.) 1892-1901, 1899-12-01
GRANTS CONFIRMED.

The United States Court of Private
Claims in session last Wednesday at
Tucson gave out the following de-
cisions: The Babocomori grant is con-
tirmed for s sitios. The grant is
owned by Robt. Perrin of San Fran-
CISCO. The Asuaprietas grant is re :
iected. The San Pedro grent, be-
longing to the Hearst estate, is in part
rejected.
The Buena Vista grant of Maish
and Dliscoll, so much as lies within
the United States is confirmed. The
San Rafael de la Zanja grant, owned
principally by ex Senator Don
Cameron and W. G. Whitney of New
York, Gen. Kerr, Of Philadelphia, and
st. Louis parties, is confirmed for four
sitos, beidg about one-fourth the area
claimed. This is the most Important
decision, as it throws open vast II acts
of valuable lands to settlement here :
tofore controlled by claimants,
Mesa free press. [volume] (Mesa, Ariz.) 1892-1901, 1899-12-01
woRAING NIGHT AND DAY

The busiest and mightiest little thing
that ever was made is DIR. Kings New
Lie Pills. Every pill is sugar-coated
globule of health, that changes weak
ness into strength, lisilessness into
energy. brain-tag into mental power
They're wonderful in building up the
nealth. Only 25c. per, box. Sold by
J III Barnett.
Mesa free press. [volume] (Mesa, Ariz.) 1892-1901, 1899-12-01

Judge Pomcroy, A. Hunsaker and
Joe Rogers started last Tuesday for q
a hunt in the mountains. They will
be gone several days.
Mesa free press. [volume] (Mesa, Ariz.) 1892-1901, 1899-12-01

Hon. T. E. Flannigan, District At
torney, was business visitor here
last Tuesday.