The age-herald., 1899-10-22
SHIRT WAISTS FOR 1899.

the short waist from the wardrobe of the well-dressed woman have at length been crowned with some degree of success. Like Banquo's ghost. the shirt waist remains but in a slightly changed position. It is still a separate waist but as a concession to the fashion for full suits is matches the skirt in color if not in material.
 Many of the leading eouturieres make these waists out of light cloth, such as tweed of the thin English make, plaid Scotch suiting, ladies' cloth and the finest and thinnest of serge They combine them with thinner materials, giving the tweed a seamless yoke of taffeta overlaid with Venetian lace of the heavy variety and like as not they fit the tweed with square neck of thin velvet. bordered with shirred ribbon, or with tucks of silk, or tne tiniest edging.
 The next concession to the full suit idea is the short basque Instead of being cut off at the waist line and blousng over it the shirt waist fits the figure very tightly and is finished below the belt line. You see these waists in the windows, well fitted and fully trimmed so that you have only to make your selection in order to get some- thing to match your skirt and thus you have a suit.
 trimming of narrow ruchesses is used for bordering the short basque. Thin silk is doubled and shrred upon both edges, making a thick, soft border. This is sewed upon the edge of the basque and also upon the waist in way to form large Grecian designs which are in themselves a very becoming trimming. It may be said in fla Yor of the basque that it tends to slender the figure though 1t is not as comfortable CT as universally well fitting as the blouse.
 The yoke is the universal rule for the separate waist. It may be of any shape and n size from hp n the deep V, which the French call ito the heart" but it must be of a contrasting ma terial and must be delicately outlined with a trimming of some sort
 The fashion of combining thin and thick ma terials still prevails the most delicate of garnitures being used with all materials, not forgetting furs.
 The Eton has ceased to be an outdoor garment It is made into small and curi- ous devices which are used as trimming or an overdress to the thin silk waist Quite an economic fashion, this of covering the silk waist with tiny jacket cut as to be ornamental yet designed in such way that it might hide all disfiguration of soil or wear.
 Royale silk is the term applied to silk which has been beaded, the beading may be in black or in colored beads, no matter which Striped silk with the narrowest pin stripes is treated to trimming of small steel or jet beads and the whole is then known as silk royale. Garniture royale, as I told you last week. is lace which is profusey beaded with beads of all colors put on without design and so producing an irridescent shade which is very dressy.
 Mrs. Coleman Drayton Haig. wao was be- fore her first marriage. Miss Astor. was in Paris recently ordering shirt waists for winter wear. One was quite deserving of notice. Its vest was of pastel blue chiffon sfirred over chiffon of pastel pink. The white fin parDifUrp1 with cut steel beads Over the waist was worn boero of white satin scalloped around the edges which were very irregular, with steel braid; and the entire bolero was bordered with the narrowest band of seal. The sleeves were the typical tight fitting sleeves with a very large bell around the hand, also bordered with seal.
 Such bodice could be worn with half a dozen skirts and would be called match to any.
 The small shoulder shawls of chiffon are in vogue. They consist of double width of chiffon, lined with silk and possibly trimmed upon the ends with ruchesses. The most delicate of the pastel shades are used for these shawls and you will find sachet introduced in them in the most in- snuating of Eugenie's styles.
 The white satin bodice while never economical is most fashionable The Prin- cess of Wales who secretly in the name of Lady Renfrew purchases a dozen bodces in Paris every year has just received a delightful one in white satin closely tucked from the tall collar to the belt. The tucks are so tiny that you suspect them of being cordings. The beautiful feature of this bodice is the bolero which is of the most brilliant violette velvet, cut with long sleeves, but so designed in front and back that it reveals the beautiful bodice There are banditures of the yiolette velvt and around tn neck there is a delicate tracery In gold.
 Another bodice which was sent home with the royal order was of black lace and white satin ribbon. The lace was cut en yoke, with great scallops finishing the yoke. Un- derneath the lace which was of the Vene- tian variety there were ruffles of white satin ribbon. Below them was another fall of the lace then more ruffies of ribbon and finally a lace fall which was belted to the figure. You can imagine nothing prettier for slim figure.
 White and mauve form the color-work for another beautiful bodice creation The vest is of white silk with large white satin dots. A big puff of white satin outlines the yoke. The tone of mauve is found in the pointed semi-lapel which trims the front and in the stripes of the ribbon which form a tie and belt.
 The prevailing tone of the new waists is brilliancy; the prevailing note eXtrava- gance Never were such vivid nor such eX- 
 work of special colorists who design the tones after which the designs are put in the hands of practical modiste who picks out the materials and gives them over to a filter to cut out and put together. It would be idle for an amateur to attempt them.
 Gupure lace, 1t is called this year, Shamrock lace, is much worn. It is so easily made into patterns and can be so admirably handled that it is quite ideal as a trimming. Over bodice of white and rose striped silk the guipure lace is charm ing and it can be used for collette and cuffs.
 Serviceable shirt waists are made en basque of broadcloth. with vivid yokes of lace; the yokes may be edged with fur or with braidng.
 The small bolero may be either part of the bodice, sham jacket, or put on separ- ately The preference, unless great warmth be desired, is for the bolero which is fast ened at the under arm seams and is part of the bodice.
 A quite unique street bodice was of OK blood red broadcloth, with yoke of Irish lace ovec white silk. The bodice was double breasted and was fastened with Ipt.t