New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1899-04-30

Ravello A holiday In Campena is holiday In
deed with balm in the air. with luminous SOIL
ness Of tnting in mountain. sea and sky ana
with the movement of life attuned to Iydian
measures. mo-. .. -.
The tranqullizing effect Of an enervating cl-
mate Is felt as soon the traveller eager for
holiday recreation arrives at the railway station
in Naples There is no resentment when the
porter proves to be petty trickster and the cab
driver with a winning smile dictates hard bar
gain There is little energy in reserve for re-
missing unfortunate beggaTs on the way TO POSI-
lipo or for dlsmssing guides bent upon impost-
IRE among the classic ruins of PoZzuoli. One
NAV fret and grumble over petty annoyances OF
travel elsewhere in Italy, but not under the blue
skies and in the white light of Campania, where
there is an amending carnival of good humor ana
mercurial spirits The undertone of merriment
and Joy in life is heard In the busting streets.
with their swarms Of hawkers and idlers' ana
there seems to be only one motive for existence
the enjoyment of every passing hour In pleasure
not too enfeebng Availability becomes infec-
tious and the surliest cync finds II waste or
energy to question cab fare or to have any feel
Ing Of discomfort in city where there is so
much cheerfulness and vivacity in everyday me-
To the hurry burly Of the town, with its varie-
gated traffic rag fairs, droves Of goats and chat
terng beggars are added the sideshows and at
fractions Of the country roads along which the
traveller drives as TO a festival. Flower-girls
and orange pedlers swarm about his carriage as
he passes to Pompeii or Vesuvus; wayside mu-
sicians are carolling rollicking songs at every
turn to the accompaniment of mandolin ana
flute; agile boys are tumbling and turning hand
springs and ragged fakirs plying every
catchpenny trick. In front OF every vineyard
cottage stands sunburnt Hebe with bottle Of
Lachrime Christi for franc; and there Is
rabble OF men, women and children with lava
trinkets TO sell. There is holiday revel wherever
tourists pass, for volatile population is ever
ready entertain them with song and dance
On the longer drives from Pompeii to Sorrento
or along the Gulf Of Salerno to Amalf the
fower-g girls with sweet voices and the orange
boys with dark eyes will run for a mile beside
carriage before they will give up their chance
OF turning a hard-earned penny Sometimes
there will be a pathetic eagerncss in a todders
face which implies fear Of a beating II he re-
turns empty-handed 10 his home. but the typical
child OF Campania spins round by herself kick
ing out her tiny brown legs under her pettcoat
ana dancing nerrily in a madcap spirit for the
recreation Of the passing traveller
CHEERFUL HOTELS
The hotels in Southern Italy are bright and
cheerful in the evenings for bands of musicians
in peasant costume are allowed to entertain the
guests with song and dance. Mandolins. guitars
tambour!nes, clappers and flutes are used. and
men and women pair off for the tarantella that
most picturesque and animated Of all Southern
dances The best performances are witnessed at
one Of the largest Sorrento hotels where there is
small theatre with an orchestra and g. dozen
dancers and singers but in Naples Pompeii
Capri and other hating places Of tourists these
dramatic peasant dances are to be seen with the
requisite touch of local color Even at Amalh
the od-time refectory Of the Capuchins and Cis-
tercians resounds at the dinner hour with the
rollicking strains Of peasant songs which are
heard with delight by swarm of tourists. The
picturesque monastery in the hollow OF a rock
two hundred feet above the is now hotel.
where travellers sleep in the monks cells and
smoke in the coisters. / dare say that the ia
rantelia will be danced some day in the great
grotto which once used as a calvary.
Even IL peasant costume. music and dancing
were lacking. these holiday Journeys could not
be anything but joyous revels for Nature has
provided for them setting OF unriyaled lowell
ness. The wealthy Romans Of the imperial age
were epicures in their appreciation Of scenery,
and they found at ancient Bai@ and Pozzuoli
and at Capri and on the mainland between
Naples and Sorrento the most luxuriant ravines
" sheltered mountainous coast. These classic