davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1899-05-14

sacrifice the waist measure to abdom-
inal symmetry. For such folk 1 would
advise the last year model, which is
adapted to stout figures, as it better
preserves the proper proportions.
Among the novelties in the corset
line is a combination affair consisting
of corset, knickerbOckers and petit
coat particularly designed for wear
with the tight skirt or classic tunic.
The corset is of blue satin cut after
the latest model, terminating in
Knockers covering the knee. Just be-
low the hip line a null petticOat is at
tached by wide beading. All surplus
fullness is eradicated in the construc-
ton Of this eccentricity, and il is sup
posed to fit skin tight, As the embodi-
ment of grace it is a failure, but as a
foundation for the close skirt it may
be called a neat job.
For the Grecian costume. which has
a certain following among modish
people who have much magnificent
flesh or Cleopatralike round limbs,
an elastic brassiere has sprung into
prominence. The back of It is COM
posed OF narrow rubber bands extend
ing under the arms to meet Iacelike
bust forms running up over the shout
der. The diaphragm is left absolutely
full A series of rubber bands begins
again at the waist line, coming down
well over the abdomen and greatly re-
ducing its size.
For neghge wear there are satin
bust supporters. cluny lace brassieres
and chiffon underwaists innumerable.
FOR the long or short wasted madam.
the svelte maiden, or her superior sis
ter. the golf girl.
Satin corsets are not good for sum-
meT wear: consequently none are on
display, though one may have a great
variety from which to choose for the
asking. Corsets should be laced afresh
each time they are put on. The light
or and thinner the corset the better il
is for your figure Generous boning is
not Objectionable, though one IS more
supple with few Whaleoones. Pongee
silk or coloced li.en makes good
morning corsets. Ribbon is largely
utilized fer goldns and bicycling cor
sets. Steady. easy pressure. gradually
Increased daily. viii II tiue produce a
slender waist. Tight iacinE never &C
composites the feat To 1he woman
who does not understand the art OF
dressing ] would suggest that she take
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1899-05-14

She can laugh with her lips make =
man think she is the merriest cricket ia
the world. while her eyes are fun az un-
shed tears and her heart is beating as
if it would burst she can forgive "a
great sin like an angel and nag a man
about a petty vice like fury. She can
do up cid frocks and wear them with a
cheerful heart that she may help some
body. and she can spend the first money
that she really feels she can use for
herself in going 10 a matinee or on
sweets when she needs a new pair az
shoes.
She can quiet a baby with one or two
reassuring pats when a man might al
most knock the life out Of IL. give IL
whole bottle of soothing sirup. and t
would still be open eyed and aggressive.
She can cry out her troubles on man
shoulder and feel a relief that b. only
possible from masculine help. and ten
minutes later she can laugh iH that
mans face and wonder what men were
made for.
What can't she do2 She VIII never be
able to resist either the man OF the baby
who has got the love Of her heart
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1899-05-14

the perfect fitting stays would be chic
and stylish.
Standard corsets are made of four
materials-broche batiste, embroider-
ed batiste and French and domestic
coutils. The last are the least eXpen-
sive, ranging in price from s. to SO.
Embroidered batiste comes high, cost
ing anywhere from So to $45. All
styles are supplied with stocking sup
porters and hooks, which are often
times gold, for holding down the pet
ticoat. Fashions in corsets change
each year in accordance with the
new figure" which makes its annual
debut Last year the lines of the Venus
de Milo were followed. showing a big
waist, an unsupported bust. untram-
meled hips and altogether a sort of
free and easy wabble, which in polite
parlancs was called the natural fig
ure.' To produce this effect, corsets
were cut very low in front, short on
the hips and sparSely boned.
This season marks a revulsion Of
feeling, and we aim at slender. vase
like proportions. To bring about such
result and conform to the require
ments OF sheathlike skirts and trans
parent bodices we have with US
slim corset in which to mold
the fashionable figure of 1899. The
corset in question has an absolutely
straight front, which crowds down the
abdomen being assisted in this duty
by strong stocking supporters at
taChed either side Of the middle steeIs.
1t is pulled down over the hips and
measures TWO inches longer than
those of last year This Characters
tic has a tendency 10 push the hips
back. giving the tat front so desira-
BILE. The upper portion of the new
corset is also of greater dimensions
and incljnes TO hold the bust up This
combination Of whaiebone and coutil
produces that topping tower effect
which makes me fear that the pin
back is TO be resurrected from the
dead ashes of a dissraceful past.
The foregoing IS an outline Of the
accepted model. which Is heightened
or shortened 70 suit the figure OF. the
purchaser. These points are decided
by the manager Of the department.
who lnstructs the alter IN regard TO
alterations, losing no line Of grace
thereby. There is another style. some
what longer. built on the same Man
and designed for women who would
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1899-05-14

crepons, chiffon. crepe de chine, net.
null, gauze and silk are some suit
able fabrics that may be chosen.
Soft, white wooden goods are pre-
pared for many fair graduates and
admit of an elegant simplicity. The
chiffon ruehings. put on the gowns in
pretty designs, give a chic yet youth
ful effect TO the costumes. The bands of
ribbon about the waist are always fin
ish-d With rows Of chiffon Tuching at
the end of the ribbons. Plain and dot
ted swiss, lawn, organdie, nainsooks
and embroidered muslins are pleasing
in effect when seen on the platform
and combined with plenty OF white
ribbon. Lace is much used in trim
ming the commencement garments, as
on all other light gowns at this sea-
son. On skirts it is made 10 simulate
the long tunic or tablier draperies.
In having commencement gown
made. if the wearer is to appear upon
the platform, it should be remembered
that its length should be more than
that usually allowed, because, viewed
from below. it will appear shorter
than it really is. Besides, the less
seen even of wei shod and shapely
feet the better the effect. The present
manner OF making gowns, with short
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1899-05-14

NE OF so many years ago it was the
NN exceptional woman who had
her Corsets fitted Nowadays
the rule works the other way,
for every first class shop has
its corset department under the su-
peTviSIon of d figure expert. who sug-
Eests the particular style suited to
your physique and superintends the
fitting 1t has ever been a privilege
Of the few TO have their own corset
maker. and 10 such need not be told
the advantage in comfort and appear
ance derived from wearing well fitted
stays, but 10 those who have never
utilized the services of maker or filter
] say. seek the experience at once:
it is wen worth while. The virtues
and vices Of The corset are a thread
bare theme. which shall here give
place 10 the more pertinent discus
sion of kinds and varieties in vogue
If by chance YOU make the trip to
Paris YOU do not so first 10 Napo-
Icons tomb, bat TO one of those freaky
courtyard places where modistes hive
like bees. You want frock. You
state your orrard. Madame gracious
~ listens 70 your plans and then
bluntly asks to see your corset. 1t is
nos good Everything, the modiste ex-
plains depends upon the way YOU are
grit Gp. and she must refuse TO At a
frock over suoh stays. Before YOU can
say nay. a sman girl is dispatched
around the corner. The corseuare ap-
pears. tape in hand. She hauIs down
the front loosens the strings at back.
forming pleasing outlines To conceal
the bust deficiency. and You are told
More like dees. and the madame
win be vraie Charmante"
Once you WELD 90 such temptation
the corset habit grows. and none but
the genuine made to order viii sat
isfy. You come To greatly admire
yourself as new figure Fortunately
1t is m longer necessary TO go corset
huntinS in Paris Just 30 To any Big
store and dnd your way L. a UEht.
broad floor. where silk. satin. lace and
elastic cOrSetS flourish. and enact the
transformation scene on your own
stamping ground. II YOU have $50 to
spend for frock and your corset IS
posse. set cheap frcck and q fine
corset. The result VIII justly the ex-
pen6irUre. The most expensive dress
VIII be commonplace over an IN tit
ting corset while one or calico over
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1899-05-14

has rot seemed TO appeal 10 wonen's
societies until the real Holland DANES
took hold OF IT.
The automobile has brought its own
fashions Gloves eoats. gowns hats
all the parsphernalia q won1an'e wear
has appeared with the automobile
stamp. ard now the paras1i follows suif-
The automobile ssnsha4e IS chiefly cor
spicuous because - its color. which IS
50 red that Il seems as i even ar aGfo-
trueis would take fright the-est ard run
away Its other title e notice . tbs
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1899-05-14

may even grow beyond that limit She
was the daughter 81 an artist and BE-
gan work 50 early in life that before
she was % she had already exhibited
two pictures which established her rep
utation.
The women Of Holland have started a
movement Of their own. and. - might
be expected from that thrifty people. il
Is an euiDentfy practical ore The OBJ
ject IS 10 take the poor from the cities
and plant them IN country colonies. The
object IS not exactly & new one. but =
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1899-05-14

NE OW comes the season when the
kSH college girl prepares to lay
" aside her schoolbooks and her
illusions. Well, perhaps the
modern matricuIating maiden
hasn't so many illusions to part with
Boarding school life is apt to knock a
good deal Of nonsense out of the head
of the average girl, as well as other
cobwebs from the brain Of young wo-
manhood that we prefer not TO see
brushed away; that is, if we care any
thing for the young woman herself.
We who are worldly wise and have
seen quarter of a century of COM
mencement seasons roll around since
our own like to think of the girl grad
uate as the ideal, standing with re-
Iuctant feet where the brook and river
meet" but, it is to be feared, that
gentle creature whom the poet i'm
mortalized would be sadly shocked
by the self confident young person
deeply versed in the "ologies" that
the modern woman's college sends
out. There is little reluctance about
her thick soled calfskin shod feet. She
pIunges into life with vim, and her live
illness makes her seem more whole
some than the others reluctance.
Observation of commencement days
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1899-05-14

trains. will cause the commencement
gown TO look even better than usual
Most girls feel self conscious and awk-
ward in public, and anything that will
help TO conceal lack of grace should
be hailed with JOY.
In trimmings white all over main
sock embroideries. fancy tuckings
with guipure. meehlin. valenciennes
and renaissance laces are all suitable
for graduating costumes.
White glace gloves and white glace
slippers are a part of the outfit, and a
dainty fan, usually the gift of some
friend: a sheer white handkerchief.
and bouquet, and the sweet girl
graduate is equipped for her triumphs.
In most colleges the closing exer-
cises include a class day entertain
ment, a commencement concert and q
baccalaureate sermon. for all of
which new gowns are usually provid-
ed 1t is therefore a season OF very
serious expense in many households.
and the general conclusion OF pater-
famiIias is that il is a bore and a nui-
sance. but to the girl il is one of the
great occasions of life. and so long as
there is an ample pocketbook 10 pay
the bills, what matter?
ELLA MATTHIESSEN
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1899-05-14

enormity ard grotezQBeness u 1he han
de which IS very mach "a the Ines q
the classic ana fore bie snsuaiah-
Paris has arranged AZ international
champions hip os beauty. the entries for
which include worne1 II al classes. TIE
prinzsp prizes coEzssf. Hrzt. - 5.ba
francs. second. - zyo5 trans and
tnird. q Iega franes. parity ~ specss
ard parity ID trousseagzx- The 8GrE + 8
dssting Ia slsea ard ~Tarle5T one end IL
esulsa sara BerunarGI The painters
asz1er and sesnard. Caiglle ES1ass.
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1899-05-14

and the sword. They were dillgent IN
war and were not ashamed 70 do for
themselves work which many a modern
parvenU would consider beneath his
dignity Their hands therefore, while
wen shaped were large ard strong. The
ladies OF the castles were skilled needle
women and adopts IL the making u
pastry and the connection o. healing
medicines from herbs Their work
however. was all u the lighter sort.
such as would develop tt2e muscles IL
harmony. and all were taught that the
first duty OF EentisfoIk Nsgfhe care Of
the body. The peasant. Io.ituE n TIE
fields Or dragging stones ana logs =
buiId the masters stronghold, was
marking face and limbs with the stamp
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1899-05-14

10 be one Of the best dressed unmarried
women
Rosa Bonheur recently celebrated the
NeNen ty-seTenth anniversary of har
olyia. but she is by no means on the re-
urea list OF the worlds great men and
women she has . big picture under
way ana works or Il several hours dali
y sixty years Of work promises To be
. 'he least record she VIII leave. and II
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1899-05-14
0ze;,AnN-1

ne poet. Jean Pal ard Jalea Chsrst. TIE
uostpr rsen- ard Do1cet ard EeIferu.
An authority has been gsx1< ne coy
~e-r r.soFort4rsss - sfe perfect teot Ea~
sara that the foot should - the esa-e
8eaEfh ~ tAe distance fTens fae ~8a7a
- me Bone Nhh ErnsCts frsa tse
eutsT portion r. tas Hrzf Moss pe9
are agFEs~ se8 th@1 tas flgt ssSala = -
ksrg 50 tbs forearm aH- IRE 5eA4uess -
slrputs the fact aH3ess psssss - ez-
perserce.
Hear eas squeak EzElzs@ w4z .
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1899-05-14

that q the pure. freah oils which enter
into is composition. Here IS shakes
peare's description ~ = beautiful hand i.
il belonged % Cleopatra
There Is Ro3a ard here
Are b.uesf veins 70 Kiss. hard fFlsl1 kl1Es
Have Tipped and tTemb.ea kissing
Lady Randolph Churchill iH sad %
have the most beautiful hard ln Eu-
rope Il is sof;. white and arlAtocrztlc
looking
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1899-05-14
FOR WOMEN READERS,

London has been discussing the cues
ton who are She best dressed women in
ats fashionable society. OF the four that
are placed ar the head of the list two
are Americans. They are Mrs. sloane
and Lacy Naylor-Leyiand. who was
Miss Jennie Chamberlain OF Cleveland.
Lady Warwick and the Duchess Of
Portland share FIRST honors with them.
Miss GoeleJ, another American, is said
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1899-05-14

her first lesson from a cOrsetiere, and
the rest will be easily mastered. The
corset filter will above all teach you
the fundamental principles-that is,
how to lace your stays and how to put
them on. You may scOrn the idea, but
l pray you not to let your ignorance.
which so beautifully blends with your
conceit that you are unaware OF its
existence, deter you from following my
advice. One frequently marvels at the
doWdy Frenchwoman's inexpressible
style. which is explained only by the
fit of her corset. 1t is well to remem-
Der that half the beautiful figures are
corset made.
Speaking OF beauty reminds me that
the wise old Greeks and Romans were
not SO completely absorbed in their
philosophical research as TO ignore the
potency of beauty, and it is interest
ing to note their comments on the
gift. Ovid calls it "a favor bestowed
by the gods" Homer, "a glorious gift
of nature" Plato. divinity taking
outlines and colors." Domitian said
nothing was more grateful" The
ocritus pronounced il "a delightful
prejudice" Scion "a solitary king
DOM and Aristotle affirmed that
beauty was better than all the letters
Of recommendation in the world"
Early in the spring I foretold the
demise of silk Innings. Dresses Of to-
day are lined with nuns yelling which
is even himsier than cashmere, the
first substitute offered. Transparent
effects continue to fascinate. and some
late examples in sleeves. yOkes and
trains are despera teIy daring. Gauze
trains are the latest caprice for brides.
and at the queens May drawing room.
il is said. yards and yards of tuue
foated aIrily 10 be stamped upon in
the crush.
The Photographic fad has seized the
present opportunity 20 out~ival that
OF miniature painting. Platnatypes
are outre. and we are now done in
green. sepia or purple Family por-
traits are photographed on panes OF
glass in the library window. The idea
was originated by a Scotch artist who
has recently. opened a London studio.
ha1Az MaY
81
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1899-05-14
III.

Thy subtle. passion breathing lay
And fervent wOOing spread a glow
OF bushes through the Towering
day
Sweet voice Of May:
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1899-05-14
SWEET VOICE OF MAY.

/.
Sweet voice of May, whose dreamy
flow
MelOdiOus is. but never gay.
Thou art love song whispered low
Sweet voice of May!
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1899-05-14

Soft. witching joy, thou art, trOv,
A breath from Paradise Rstray
To trance the budding world be-
low
Sweet voice of May!
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1899-05-14

a OF so many years ago it was the
~ exceptional woman who had
v her corsets fitted Nowadays
the rule works the other way,
The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1899-05-14

sa@@&aaaaaAAAAAGAA<SkAs4A
Bismarck weekly tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1884-1943, 1899-09-08
MORE MONEY WANTED.

Much more money is needed than has
been subscribed, to properly provide for
Co. a. 1t is not expected of this COM
munity that it can raise sufficient funds
to bring the boys home and properly re-
ceive them. Communities, from which
no companies were sent, are contribu-
ting to the fund to bring the soldiers
home free and the effort is being made
to make the grand total of all COM
munities sufficient to do this. This
Missouri slope must not fall
behind in this matter. We must receive
the boys with a grand demonstration,
and we must contribute literally from
the funds raised for the unfortunate
sick and to bring the regiment back
free. Call it sentiment or what you
will, the prairies are ablaze with pat
riotism and the crystalization is in favor
of a grand reception and free transport
tation.
Bismarck weekly tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1884-1943, 1899-09-08

The Northern Pacific is booming.
President Mellen says in New York:
Last year was the best the Northern
Pacific ever had by a good deal. We
know what our income account for the
year is, though the annual report will
not be ready for distribution for per-
haps a month. The road never be-
fore had such a large volume of bus
mess, and was never operated more
economically. Year before last the
ratio of operating expenses was 400
per cent, while last year it was II
per cent, which is within 1-1OOth of l
per cent of the record. Year before
last the company earned over 4 per
cent on the common stock, but
charged heavily to improvements a
count, only 2 per cent having been
paid. This year it charged twice as
much to improvements and has al
ready paid 2 per cent on the common
stock, with a prospect Of something
better before long.
Bismarck weekly tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1884-1943, 1899-09-08

the name and address of the person for
which it is sent. Production of the re-
ceipt will greatly facilitate reference to
the records if it become necessary for
the remitter to make application for a
duplicate order or inquiry as to whether
the original has been paid; and here
again a saving of time will be effected.
The postal money order system, from
a small beginning in 1864, when the
number of money order post offices
established in the United States was 4l9,
has grown to be one of the great indis-
pensable agencies of exchange. There
are now about 10000 such offices. The
number of domestic money orders issued
in the United States during the past
year was ovcr 30, 900 amounting in
value to s21O,OOO!OOO. The system is
used most extensively for remittances
from places where bank exchange 10 not
SO readily obtainable. While supple
menting facilities for i~ntercourses be-
tween populous c%enters, it has it's own
special field, supplying means for the
safe and cheap transmission of money
where other agencies for the purpose
could not be successfully maintained.
In the adoption of the new form of
order the interests and preferences of
patrons of the system, no less than econ
omy Of administration, have been duly
considered; and it is therefore confident
ly expected that it will tend to enhance
in no small degree the popularity of this
method of making remittances. 1t is
expected that on or about January l
next the fee charged for orders will be
materially reduced.
Bismarck weekly tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1884-1943, 1899-09-08

Now that the Minnesota volunteers
are about to arrive at San Francisco, it
is discovered that the state delegation is
slow about getting there and it is pos
sible they might not arrive in time.
North Dakota gets highly complimented
for the delegation it sent to welcome
the boys, and the progressiveness and
general up-to-dateness of the state is
generously commented upon. Now
what we want is to finish the good work
by bringing the men home in shape and
paying there transportation-so if you
haven't bought a badge, now is the &C
copied time.
Bismarck weekly tribune. [volume] (Bismarck, Dakota [N.D.]) 1884-1943, 1899-09-08

and Companies B, G, II and D in that
OH the San Pedro road. Feb. 10, Com
panies l and X fought at Malabay,
and the whole command, except Co.
G, was in the engagements Of Cul:culi,
IN March -. and then all companies
were in the fights against the jnsur-
gents outposts, April 1 at Kingsbluff,
and at Santa Cruz on April 8 and 10.
Companies D, A, c and X, along with
sharpshooters, were engaged at Pag-
saban April II, and again at Paete on
the 18th. All cf the eight companies
participated in fights at San Bartalon,
April %; Novaliches, April 20; at Ia
bac and San Rafael April 20; at Eta
ban May 1; at Bustos May 2; at San
1sidro May II; at San Fernando May
10; at Cabios May 10; at Cainta June
3; at Taytay June 3 and 4, and at An
goa June 6. Then Companies A and
H fought at Morong June %. In adj
dition to all this service by the COM
mand, the North Dakota scouts and
sharpshooters participated in fighting
at San Rafael May 1, at Balinag the
End and at Sampolic the 3rd. The
expedition into the foothills covered
from the 3rd to the 18th, and Mt Ilde-
fonso on the 10Th some of the men
were recommended for medals for
gallantry. They were at San Manuel
on the 18th, at Salical the 18th, at Tar
bon bridge the 10th, where thirteen
men were recommended for medals
for bravery, twenty-one fine shots
driving a force Of 1000 Filipinos out
of the earthworks; at San Antonio the
Goth, and at Baras June s and 9.