The record-union., 1899-01-15

open fronted coats and basques will
continue in great favor, and everything
designed to impart a look of slender
ness and grace will be followed by the
modiste and tailor in the making OF
gowns for the new season.
Some weeks before the styles, outlines
and garnitures for toilets. of the COM
ing season haye. been decided upon, the
various fabrics are set forth in the
importing and dry goods houses. In
midwinter many of the spring materials
are, displayed, and in early spring we
get many of the charming textiles
which are to be used during the sum-
mer.
French cheviot, satin cloth, tricot,
meltonette, dray d'ete and peau de sole
will all be used in making coat basques
for general wear in the early spring.
Models for these garments show very
open cutaway fronts, the collar cut in
one piece and hooked at the back, the
full vest front also fastened at the
back, and the coat finished with a
large cape collar of velvet jointed to
which is trimmed with chenille, gimp
and small velvet buttons Shaped cuffs
matching the revers complete the close
coat sleeves. The lining fronts have
double darts, but the outside fronts are
finished with very deeply arched single
darts.
There is still very great fancy even
at this season of the year for mousse
line de sole yokes and guimpes on all
sorts of bodices to. wear under tailor
coats. On one stylish suit of dark bur-
gundy red the mousseline is tucked
over white satin to form medium sized
squares and the low cut waist above
this guimpe is bordered with cream col
ored lace running down on the satin
where the blouse is crossed to the left
side. The neck is finished with a shir-
red stock and an elaborate cravat OF
lace and mousseline de sole.
On account of the great change in
the size of the dress sleeve, it is nc
longer necessary in making up evening
wraps to allow for much extra breadth
| across the shoulders, and while there
is much elaboration about the neck in
the way Of large picturesque collars
neck ruches and boas of lace, ribbon
and fur, the space below is left un-
| adorned, and it is considered better te
show long shoulder lines than to cover
the wrap on the upper portion with
weighty accessories.
The invisible chevrons woven in q
new type of camers hair are made into
handsome street costumes, trimmed
with black Astrakhan fur. The tunic
| which is one of the most pronounced
characteristics of the winter styles, ex.
tends from measurement Of half the
width Of the underskir4t in front to a
very deep, rounded point at the back
following the sweeping dip of the dress
skirt. 1t is three piece model, with
underfolded plaits at the back, and the
edges are finished with an Astrakhar
band about four inches wide.
In evening DRESS a style much used
by high class modistes, is a princess
shape, perfectly smooth and close fit
ting over the hips, the bodice portion
low in the neck, with a ripping bertha
drapery at the edge. The mosQuetaire
sleeves reach to the elbow, and the
skirt is trimmed with three circular
founces edged with narrow chiffon
ruching. Silks and satins Of every de-
scription are used for these gowns, also
crepe de Chine, yelling, silk dotted pop
lin and silk and wool fancies in which
chenille effects appear.
| Many of the open fronted Louis XIV
coats of fine French broadcloth are COW
cred with silk braidwork, forming elab-
crate arabesque devices One handsome
garment in this style is of nuns gray
cloth, every inch of the foundation be-
| ing covered with black braiding. The
vest fronts, pocket flaps, expanded cuffs
and high f1aring collar-cut in one with
the coat-are similarly made.
| Poplins Of various qualities and in
many new effects will be one of the
favored fabrics next season. They have
| a silky finish and in dainty stripes
plaids, checks and dots of soft, delicate
color, the spring patterns are exceed
ingly effective. There are many kinds
of popf1n, and the prettiest are silk dot
ted, with often a corresponding bar OF
hair line of colored silk crossing the
lustrous surface. These patterns are
suitable for very handsome toilets.