The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-01-22

table all the men who are most distinguished
for culture. for wit. and for the other qualih-
cations that make conversation brilliant. in
structive and entertaining. The social condi-
tons which enabled Lord and Lady Holland.
sixty years ago. to gather about their table at
one time all the brilliant takers OF the period
eating functions of the great dining So
cietieS OF London. These are by no means
modern creations: many OF them were estqb-
lished in the last century and are still in Wig
in a recent issue Of the Efjltburgh Rerie1r un.
gives some account OF these organizations
The Oldest OF them is the Dilettante Society {:
Ct nP1fsese som nns Of Ge the most most b ri @sm and d,se
tihguished men OF the time. Its dinners 0c-
cur, every sunday. and at them the respectable
and respected members take neither them
selves nor ANYBODY seriously. but for n few
hoqLs play the fo9l Am2ng other dining 30
erary Society and Grlllion's Club. Their pur-
pose is astronomical and intellectual. Some
OF them have permanent Presidents who reEu-
each OF their meetings n member who occu-
pies the chair, Their financial affairs are
managed by a Secretary. who is a permanent
official. The weekly dinner at Griliiou's Club
is a, gathering q the leading members Of each
OF the great political parties. On, these occa-
strained banter. Membership 70 these socie-
ties is obviously very restricted; Expansion
in that particular would he fatal, TO their eN-
~istence. They are not housed under their own
roofs. hut meet at some designated place for
weekly dinners. Women are not admitted to
these functions. These societies collect peri
odically at their tables many Of ;he most agree
able takers of the day. 1t is asserted that no
don is who has not had the privilege OF at
tending one or more OF these gatherings,
A periodical of this tow recently printed
the menu of a dinner that possesses unusual
distinction. II is accompanied with the front
cal suggestion that il will be reproduced al the
tables Of many OF its readers. This menu
gives a service of dishes and wines impossible
OF perfect realization at any private house
that depends entirely upon the resources Of
its own kitchen and cellar. The accomplish.
ment is only possible at two or three OF the
foremost restaurants ot the town. Failure
on two or three directions would mar ita com
pleteness ana remove the quality Of distinc-
ton which constitutes its principal merit.
Pheasant eggs, Of all the ailments mentioned,
OF the year. II Is to be presumed that those
OF the bantam fowl were intended TO replace
them Even the 1871 brandy hat is Indicated
mart ocular brand is not IN he had one equally
good may be secured at the cost Of 500 a
dozen bottles, This menu seems all The more
distinctive when compared with those pro-
vided on tho occasion 81 elaborate private en-
tertainmcnts. Al a recent great hall given in
this city on the menus Of the 'wo services
there WAS not 3 single dish suggestive OF nov
city or indicating anything hut 4 commercial
NFll' ~ W ~ "a wi hlA AA Ffllh
Even Berlin can be original with It's grotesaue
gnstronomic, surprise OF frozen whipped
cream served with finely powdered horse rad
ish. HeutreS b6chamel. cotelettes de rs lie
veau, terrapin in Maryland style. pate de foie-
Gras ana mayonnaise de volatile. in endless
repetition from one end Of the season u the
other ars apt TO become wearisome. This
either reveals. EtaGnation in the culinary art
al the end Of the century or indicates that our
caterers do not regard seriously the CASTRO
nom!c enlightenment OF their patrons.
For lavish magnilrence OF Entertainment
Notwithstanding the wealth of!AmerIcans. they
are in their novitiate compared with som
medieval amateurs. C~hristOforo di Mossis-
burgo. chef Of the Cardinal Of Ferrara. has
left a re sOrd OF some Of the festivities Of his
time. Among them is a fish supper. offered
by the Cardinal to Hercules. Duke OF Char,res.
and other distinguished people. This record
is printed IN the EDicure from a translation
by S!r, A. II; ,Layard, On this particular ocra.
sion the table was spread in a garden with
splendid plate; aiegorical, figures in sugar.
and napkins "diyinely, folded There were
no fewer than $50 dishes, divided into nine
teen %courses; During each course there was
a concert'ot instruments. and voices or dances
COMPANY In the Berga Nasque aud Yene-
tian manner. During the frat course three
trombones with other instruments produced
such harmony that those present thought they
wore listening TO music from heaven. The