The Jersey City news., 1899-10-24

WOMAN'S WORLD.


us to put into force and practice that per
fection of refinement in all the details OF
dress which hitherto had only been aimed
at. Our underlinen Is as gossamer and as
fine as the cravats and frills of a past
/ generation; dainty eolorings have found
their way into the most hidden items OF
our toilettes, and lace is used in liberal
profusion.
Many BAH gowns will be made of the
! black Russian nets, "a inches wide, em-
broidered in cord and silks; they are also
used for bodiees, with the corselets made
of overlapping jet (the latter will be
worn for morning or evening", and there
are many black and white net bodices
worked with paillettes. In white, bail
gowns will be made Of net, worked al
over with chenille in a seaweed design
held down by pearl sequins. There are
great many bows in this sequin work, and
! large sprays of flowers ready for appl-
I queing on the sides of dresses, and any
number of net insertions worked with
cord for the hems of skirts.
The Swiss floral lisse enbroideries on
black, white and colors. worked with SILK,
are of great beauty. There is a range OF
sequin laces. 2 to A inches wide, made Of
overlapping beads, which should be in
troduced at the edge of the flounce and OF
the tunics.
I The let trimmings are most beautiful
! especially the pieces for yokes and boalces
with Jet fringes; nothing better is worn
and pretty well everything that is to be
found in jet Is repeated in colored sequins
For morning wear or railroad travel we
set a .shepherdess' of gray or tan felt
over the pompadour structure OF our Golf
fure. This is not a dressy hat, and is
meant for the second-best tailor suit worn
for shopping or errand running before
lunch. A silk scarf is twisted around the
crown. and a grebe's breast or crow s
breast applied wherever is most becom-
ing. The correct shepherdess model has
slight drop over the forehead, produced by
a slight elevation of both the sides. The
hat is not generally becoming to Amer
cans. English women wear them to per-
fection A piquant face is seriously handi-
capped by this model. A scarf wound
around the crown has ends frfnged out or
fringed netting stitched to it.
An object Of suspicion. disfavor and
alarm irthe lates spring or summer months,
the moth. is now enjoying complete re-
habilstation at the hands of society In
velvet. satin or plush he startles you by
appearing as a popular ornament in mil
linery. ANY one familiar with entomology
is aware that the moth is quite as beauti-
full as the butterfly. Some lovely speci-
mems figure in the big collections formed
by naturalists. Most of us shrink from
the idea of having "a bee in the bonnet,
but we do not gainsay the opinion OF the
expert milliner, who garnishes her new
creations with a large-winged moth Ger
tainly there is no accounting for the popu-
lar taste.
Smart winter turbans and toques have
the brim turned up sharply in front, en-
tirely rolled back from the forehead. Very
often this roll is split open to the crown,
either directly in front or a little to one
side, which is usually the left. This al
lows the miIliner scope to fill in the space
with huge windmill bows of silk or velvet
bows. punches of plumes or wings. Often
the wings are made of velvet or shiny
silks. substituting these materials for
genuine bird plumage. All of these and
other decorations of fur or of lace, gilt or
siIvered ornaments or 3'dewdrops" of tiny
rhinestones are arranged over the brow
by the agency of the split brim. This de-
vice permits the trimming to come nearer
to the face than would be possible with
either a turned back or turned-out orim-
Among rich velvets is a novelty which IS
not called broeade, although that name
might occur to an old-fashioned person.
1t is intended for social functions of great
state and is correspondingly rich and cost
ly. White chrysanthernun1s not too large,
are apparently flung down on a rich velvet
or delicate biscuit fawn. The flowers are
crisp and natural-looking in their high re-
lief. and the spectator of this loveliness
is almost tempted to imagine that the
flowers have been made separately and
appliqued to the surface of the velvet.
But this is simply one Of many surprising
bits of IoveIness which come under the
general name of panne. Panne is simply
cloth woven with a velvet-lile frill, with
some of the threads longer than others,
and 50 various effects can be produced by
the mixture Of short pile and long pile.
Indoors we have brilliant color effects
in the gay flannel waists worn by almost
every one. Superb cranberry crimsons,
'sfrog" green's, and automobile reds are
seen in flannel waists. so that a covey Of
young girls in indoor costume rivals the
glories of the changing autumn foliage.
The waists are made very simply. The
slender girl has her bodice laid In tucks
all over, a mode not attempted by any
one who combines sense of humor with
tendency to embonpoint 1t may be add
ed that the all-over tucked waist is twice
as warm as the plain bodice, d point wor-
thy of consideration.
A cherry red flannel. sprinkled with
black dots, is favorite with young girls.
The gray and nyacinth blues pFedomi-
nate in the waists worn by naturer wom-
en-. Sky blue is also frequently worn; it
is becoming to brunettes and also to a
rosy blonde.
sss
we are stil1 WEARING jeweIed tortoises
and other wonderful charms some Of
them mechanical. such as movable enam-
eled semaphores and eggs out Of which
chickens spring; but In this pocketless age
it is the adjuncts for chatelaine that ex-
cite our interests most. The jeweled coat
of mail purses are an additional incen.
tive to thieves, so are jeweled knives.