Daily Kennebec journal., 1899-05-25

TOO heavy. says the PHILADELPHIA Press
and both sides Of each seam, from the
n.,f, Sewf,ihS % ilne to the edge nnish. should be
vel pressed down before any attemp, is
made 70 open the seams hat This
u prrsses the llnishins and saves the risk
~ showing II through. If the dress is OF
very thick or very sprinsy cloth or serge.
z damp cloth should b. laid over The
closed seam ana the pressing done
through IT, leaving it slightly damp for
thr ldst pressing. After both sides of the
rIoSed seam have been pressed. each one
may pc laid open and pressed fiat with
d cooier IRON. care being taken not 10
stretch the length of the seam: and the
ogst ol me dress teach side Of the top
oi me darts and a little above tham)
should be opened ANA great. pains taken
70 press the extreme tops Of the darts
quite nat out, but the same pains must
pt taken nor 70 stretch the dress at thar
part, elmer down or across The VERY enI
81 the iron only should be used there
The sleeve seams should be pressed
llrSt closed and then open, ana a sleeve
board is certainly an advantage Differ
eht contrtVances frequently take its place
"A small cricket bat. n broom handle or
a rollingpin being the faVorite; bur care
should be taken that neither ba; nor
broomstick has been painted. and thar
the rohIng pin has never been used. or
the heat VIII produce bad results
Pressing should always be done on four
thlcknesses Of wO0len stuff, soft cloth or
4 blanket covered with a strong muslin
cIotn. Inc IRON should be well clplneu
and not TOO large or heavy. TaIlors us..
a narrow iron, which runs along M.
seams. and women who make their own
dresses would be wise in having SO helm
ful commodity.
All fabrics may he roned in the same
way as woolens unless they have a pile
when every care should be taken not to
iiatten it; crepons come under the same
head as pile fabrics. and should he
pressed in the same way. SIX glazes ana
scorches very quickly. and should there
lore, he pressed IN the same way ana
with an iron that is light in weight ana
rather cool, and. indeed, ii is a mistake
to use hot irons in pressing
Fugitive colors which change to brown
when heat s applied 10 them are very
terrifying as 1t appears as If the gar
mcnt has been spoiled, but. If the lining
mas not been scorched. 1t will generally
be found that the color comes back when
the dress is quite cold. Nearly ali light
blue grays, stone color lilac. pale hello
trope and the like are fugitive: IL takes
three or four hours before the color
comes back to them. A safe test is to
try piece of the goods under the iron
the day before. as you can then judge
how much heat il will stand.
1t is not advisable for home dressmak-
ers TO use the damp cloth TOO largely in
largely upon serses, tweeds and firm
woolen cloths wet treatment is best
adapted 10 the requirements Of the ma
terial. and IS made one of the SDpcial
features OF their work. both in the ex-
quisite finish OF all seams and edges and
in the sktlltul manipulation by which they |
impart form to the garment; while the
large majority OF dress materials are s,o
comparatively ght and thin tnat wet |
treatment would injure color. finish and |
texture. causing them TO draw. up ana
look rouen and cockled. and entirely de- |
stroying the delicate appearance Of the |
fabric.
The skirt seams are pressed and the |
band put on and hooked securely before |
IL. cd * % Nlrr 1ir1.a a sstrI b.
act length in all places is determined |
This done. the best means Of finishing it |
is To baste a narrow hem all around and !
press il firmly all around. The binding |
braid or velvet if put on then entirely Dy |
hand and then finally pressed once more |
Will be mucn more easily removed after |
ii has become worn out than IL stitched |
on and sewed in u hem. You will be sur |
pr sed AT the smart tailor-effect Of a skirt |
50 hnished when compared with one done |
by the usual time-saVing dreSsmaker |
method. ana the work of repairing Is les |
sened by more than one-half