Evening journal. [volume] (Wilmington, Del.) 1888-1932, 1899-04-21
STRIKING BRElAg<NAsr r1sH

In an uptown hotel in which the APP
ptette5 OF the guests at breakfast are
likely 70 show the effects OF their pro
ceedings the night before there IS one
dish In unusual demand THE strange
ness OF the article in such a pace, com
hEed witch the frequency w.eA which
II is ordered, makes the dish one
striking feature CT breakfast at the
staurant. X is Philadelph a SC ap-
ple, which is probably to be hli n no
Y.her restaurant here. II Ia a0t on 0he
BIZ, OF fare, indeed, I'm tbs ace, and
rs prescribe Is known only a. the lni-
tisted. There are enougA Of them.
however, 10 keep the der arr active. Il
axes the regular attendants at the up
Gown restauranrs 20 discover these
speslaties which are Intended to
awaken the jaded appetite to the PCS
sibil.tes Of breakfast In one OF
these places, FOR example. there is on
certain days. a peculiar KIND Of her.
ring to be had while In another Their.
IS a speciality. simple In character. bu;
50 excellent here In quality that Il
brings a regular group OF guests Thii
Is a way CT serving sparerbs, which
ordinarily are looked upon as lowly
and unworthy part OF the pig. But
they have been elevated here to the
value OF dish that tempts appe,.tel
never at their best in the morning.
The extent TO which some high.
c.cc5 reE,aurants Will go 10 economic
In the keeTing OF expensive foods. re
gordfess Of the deception p-acticed
upon their patrons, is almost beyond
be,tef. A few nights ago, for instance
the narrator was quest at a small
table in the restaurant Of a. hotel that
Claims ~ se one CT the sweetest in this
city, and II the prices Of the dishes
furnish criterion, Il certainly is toy
Of the heap. One OF the courses order
ed consisted CT terrap.n. II the host
had been an ordinary, commonplace
mortal, the deception that the house
evidersly habitua.y practices mighi
not have been discovered, un-
less. of course, these gathered
about the board were posses
sots of discriminating palates. In
other words. there would ordinarily
have been furnished some terrapin
meat, smOthered in a generous, yellow
bath which In terrapin covers a mutt
tude OF sins. Eut the host command.
cd the terrap.n to be brought 10 him
In its cooked condition Cc.d, addin,
that he also wished to be provided
with n chafing-dish. some butter and ,
tablespoonful CT fine sherry He pro
posed preparing Il himself when tn
ternp.n was brought the cat was on
OF the bag Incredible as il may ap
pear, the meas OF the tor nise was pro
| iU.cd In the form Of a regular nou.
and ie.Ned like piece Ct hogsheal
cheese and met cooking unlike that por
cine product. When separated with
fork the meat was found to be as toug
az mules hide, and IL was apparen
that the terrapin had been cooke
weeks before packed into tumblers o
similar receptac.es, and put away in
rd1ri geraror. II that Is not sacri.eg'
then l do net knew the meaning q
that word. and yet for such stun cor
filling people pay $3.50 or 81 per orde
and imagine that they are enjoying
gastronomtc treat or course, wrong
IKE these eventually correct them
selves, but IT is a crime that sue
tnirgs should be practced and PEI
mltted -Megargee, in PHILADELPHIA
Times.