The Providence news. (Providence [R.I.]) 1891-1906, 1899-08-14
ROME IN SUMMER.
Alter The Tourists Have Vanished the Eternal Gil
Asserts Hsrseli.

Those who only visit Rome in winter,
or in April, have not realize the full
charms Of the city, for in hose sea-
sons it owes its appearances OF life
chiefly TO the "forestieri." The people
themselves have not yet issued from
their shells, tneir houses are still their
refuge, where they NOPE and laze,
shrunken with cold or else aching with
'scinocco," which does not, as a rule,
affect the foreigner until he has re-
sided here for some time.
But now that the tourists have van
ished back TO their various fashionable
centres, Rome asserts herself. The
"ioie de vivre" testifies itself all
through her streets. The air blows
fresh and sweet fror. the Towering
"campagna" under the morning sun.
Faces look happy, the step seems
lighter than usual eyes are brighter.
and cool colOred costumes predominate.
The middle hours OF the day are, of
course, too hot. and they are passed in
doors. over the family meal, the siesta.
etc. After 4 O'Clock the streets have
developed a shady side TO some purpose
they therefore become populous once
than industrial folk. and one pauses a
moment perhaps TO reflect how much
beauty, ma6 AID female, has frequent-
ed this "Corso' since the days of Han
nibal for Ii was originally the Via
Flaminia," or, rather. II still is such,
although owing 20 the vandalism, not
of the real Vanda's and Goths and Nor
mans. but the Popes and their
"nephews, il has lost the triumphal
arches which formerly spanned 1t and
divided it into livin gmeasured para
graphs. For yonder, where that young
officer in blue and silver Is twisting his
while group OF black and
white nuns passes him, stood, until 1862.
he arch of Marcus Aurelius and Lucius
Verus. destroyed then by Alexander
VII (ChigD merely because IL inter-
fered with his horse races at Easter
tide.
Various, indeed. are the figures one
sees during a wander through the de-
lightful network OF these streets. says
n correspondent of the London Globe.
In the morning there is less crowding,
so that they stand out more vividly.
At the corners here and there stand
country women, with white.
folded headcloths selling wild straw
berries. which scent the fresh air. or
weighing out cherries in Old fashioned
scales, and chattering 10 their custom
er-s all the time. Presently various
other interesting figures pass by--a
black and white monk. airing a red
cross upon his habit going about The
bus mess of the convent--a vender OF
lemon water the favorite drinl, OF the
lower classes OF Rome in summer. with
a painted wagon and all the necessary
glasses. taps. squeezers,
etc. calling cool drinks, cool dr'nks."
And. stepping up into another level and
another street. one passes by dark
door ways which frame the usual dark
women busy knitting ana a. tho Same
time superintending huge baskets Of
eggs for sale. ,r green cUcumbers and
tomatoes flaring red.
But enough of people! Peep into this
court of my lords palazzo; IL is a ver-
table fine perlstylium as OF old with a
arge white marble fountain I'm its cen
tire. whose singf. wat drop from
three twisted dolphns. and overflow
ylittering into a caplcious basin, from
which spring up luscious clumps Of
towering arum. All around II wind
neat formal gravel paths. which lead
round palms and deodaras and olean-
lers Upon everything the sun rs now
blazing while up above n the blue air
he swallows and swifts are whirling in
wHld happy flights. How cool and
fragrant IL will be when evening comes!