New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1899-05-07
4 HOLIDAY IN ITALY.
w.
SUGGESTIONS FOR AMERICAN TOUR.
IsTS-ROME WITH AND WITHOUT
ATMOSPHERE-A REST
Full ENDING.

and the most Joyous holidays in Campania. with
ss glorious rock bound coast and its undertone
NJ gayety soft and musical as the pulse beat
Of the surf In the blue Bay OF Naples. To this
contrast is added another. with which 1 shall
bring to a close these haphazard jottngs on the
most pleasurable journey to be made anywhere
IN the world. The most invigorative and stimu-
,stive holiday in Italy is found in Rome and
the most tranquil interval Of rest In Venice.
Iesurely travellers. who are not Of the work.
sday world, but can come often to Italy and re-
main for months in a single city. do not need
suggestions American tourists. whose gala days
abroad are limited to a rapid and busting cir
cult. may profit by a hint for combining the
serious work Of sightseeing with restful recrea-
ton.
The order in which these holidays should come
ought not 10 be summarily arranged by circular
ticket agents. The Riviera is the natural en-
trance gate 10 Italy. which is at once the temple
Of ancient and medieval history and the House
Beautiful among civilized lands Pisa and Flor
ence should have the first place in this Italian
circuit because the hardest work. involving clos
est concentration Of powers Of observation. is re-
ou,red for them. and the traveller needs TO
have mind open for fresh impressions. After
Florence an interval Of exhlarating pleasure Is
needed before the conquest of Rome is under
taken by the sightseer; and at Naples and
among the lovely coast towns and mountain VII
Iages of Campania there is a joyous holiday for
faded minds and weary eyes. Refreshed and in
vigorated by this period OF relaxation. one Is
prepared TO enter Rome where every side of his
nature will be touched. and where an overpow-
ering appeal will be made to the imagination
After Rome the traveller who Is making rapid
Eight must have rest for body and mind. and
vbere can that be found If not in dreamy ten
der enervating Venice? For final glimpse or
italy a mighty work Of Incompatible beauty
needs TO be reserved and II is in Milan Cathedral
that the gracious beauty of the Riviera, the pal
aces of Genoa, the cathedral group OF Pisa the
art treasures Of Florence, the joyous reVei OF
Naples the marvels Of immortal Rome. the pct
uresoue arcades of Bologna, St Marks and the
Grand Canal and the amphitheatre OF verona
can be recalled in brilliant flashes OF memory
with the consolatory thought that oeaker OF
the best wine has been kept to the last. IL
have not followed this itinerary with precision
I would do so another time for, like every other
visitor hope to come again. and shall ming my
nennv into the fountain of Treve on my last
noonlit evening in Rome.
THE. CHARM OF ROME.
The charm which Rome possesses in pre-emi-
hence among all cities in the world is its innnte
variety 1t has a fascination for travellers OF
every race and order Of mind and there is some
thing here that appeals to every deliberate de-
mand and to every transitory impulse ana
caprice Of human nature. 1t is the unique IN
comparable centre Of the world for classical
scholarship. historical "Reminiscences. ecclesias-
teal controversy and artistic achievement The
whole trend of the forces of ancient and modern
civilization can be measured here. and one may
dream Of the future as OF the past ana yet re-
main in his waking hours in closer touch with
+he living pulsating present than anywhere eise'
. ,,s.srostic tourist comes to Rome for the hrst
time with a list Of ruins antique statues GAIA
combs basicas frescoes and famous places "
he checked off from day to day; put MS pre-
arranged order Of seeing the sights is speeuH!
a,.,ansed with. and he finds himself broodng
over Rome as a world. even universe, In ITSELF
IN which the destinies Of humanity have been
,D+er1voven and bound together. and which In
,erests his intelligence and fascinates his mag
,,etion as nothing else has ever done. 1t touches
hin, on every side and, astounded by It's COM
nrebensiveness and endless variety, he despairs
~ ever seeing or knowing It thoroughly. Rome
&c q symbol of life as we'll as OF eternity. IL Is
ss varied and inexhaustible in resources as lie
itself . -,
ssnse Of humor ought to keep the Amerl-
ran tourist from making himself RIDICULOUS III
Porne but am afraid It seldom has thls eilec.
A more fantastic figure can hardly De imagined
than the newcomer among the historic s'o"e' "a
the Forum listening 70 the gaooie OF gar
rrIous guide on the mysteries or archseoioeS vi
Iaboriously striving with the aid or baeoehei
N Identify the foundations OF classical teinp'e'
and IN understand their relative posi'iohs'
Equally ludicrous is the dazed spectator IN '"e
s,stine Chanel and In the Stance as ne enoeaV-
ors ~ ruzzle out in few minutes the most III
tricate masterpieces Of marvellous composition
and ends by finding his mind In haoue"ie
whirl like the figures In THE Last Juoshen.
The age OF miracles has passed. and the toui' ''
during his early days in Rome VIII nave as rea-
sonable an expectation Of being canohizeu Dis
Woodworking saint as OF mastering 'he 0oi"-
pick problems Of archaeology and hehaissa"oe
fresco painting When he begins 10 iaue"
the folly Of tramping up and down chuiehe W."
q, omen eu,debook. and Of busting through gal
leries Of antique statuary for the sane "a nv
mentary identifcations of famous objects OF ar'
he is in a fair way TO enjoy Rome anu ~ "
vigorated and stimulated by IT,
What IL requisite in Rome Is general at
rnosnbere rather than technical knowledge OF
isolated facts The medieval quarter, Win us
pera,.sancs na,aces. haunted with traditions Is
as interesting as the relics OF the Imperial p.
or as the art treasures of the Vatican aho inc
Cen,,o,. hut ordinarily it escapes the ooserVa-
ton of rapid travellers who are bent upon loi-
lowing their art manuals and hunting FOR classic
columns in the facades Of churches or for altar
pieces and faded frescoes in the dimiy lishteo
chapels. Mr. Marion Crawford in his admirable
book on Rome has done much to fill not only
the mediaval section along the Tiber but all
The fourteen regions of the city with atmospheric
effects. His two volumes offer the best prepare
ton for an intelligent and sympathetic appreci-
alton of the stored city. with Its memories
legends traditions and human interest. IL IL
49,. 30. Harmed to roam at rdnoo"