New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1899-04-30

slopes on the way to Amalh. and every ravine
that is skrted Is a terraced vineyard under
laborious cultivation for wine and oil. 1t is a
glorious drive all the way from Sorrento 10
Amalf with splendid Turneresque effects of
color on land and sea.
Until this road was hewn few years ago In
the side Of the cliffs and helped out by viaducts
and bridges over mountain torrents Amalh could
only be reached by boat from Sorrento or by
road from Saerno and Vietri. 1t Is now &C
cessible by road from both Sorrento and Cava.
and is visited by thousands OF tourists every
season. Situated on a rocky headland. with a
single of sand. it commands the entrance of a
deep ravine encompassed by mountains. 1t Is
a quaint coast town with an ancient Lombard
Norman cathedral on the edge OF the harbor and
a grim old monastery high in hollow Of the
overhanging cliffs. The mountain scenery be-
hind 1t Is wild and impressive. Clustering
around it villages with vineyards. olive
plantations and orange groves. and through the
valley opening inland Winds a sluggish mill
stream with old churches perched high among
the hills and gazing with vacant stare at the
clumsy waterwheels. Southwark is the ever
changing sea, with jewelled effects,of opalescent
color which can only be from the noun
famous coasts Of the Mediterranean Thrice
carries him as far as Amalf and enables him to
rest there awhile in placid content!
SURPRISES IN RAvELI.O
To Amalf Is added Raveo, a lovely old town
with Norman traditions, a Romanesque ca
thedral and Saracenic palace. 1t stands long
wav back from the sea, yet being high In the
mountains commands a magnificent prospect Of
r. with the Greek Temple of Neptune far away
across the Gulf Of Salerno. There are many sur
prises in sculpture and architecture In this pct-
uresaue town. ranging from a frankly impossible
representation Of Jonah and the whale on the
Cathedral pulpit to the fantastic coonnade
and domed gateways OF Rufalo Palace; but the
most unexpected revelation is that OF neatness
and tdness in gardens and streets Ravello
is a clean town. without beggar on exhibition.
h,va seen only one other Italian town where
cleanliness seemed 10 be rated in close proximity
n godness Bologna is also clean and whole
some: but. unlike Ravello. it swarms with beg
gars.
As an Offset to the evils of uncleanness and
mendcancy, which are the besetting sins OF I'M
poverished Italy. there are evidences In this
rockbound southern coast OF patient ana TOLL
some industry. Agriculture has involved a
painful. almost pathetic. struggle against nature
on these precipitous mountain slopes where ter
races are rough-hewn one above another ana
converted into vineyards and gardens nature
has not conquered the ease-loying Italian peas
ant I'm this stern conflict Out or the heart OF
,ho ,,oclv coast flow streams OF oil and wine at
tho Kidding of these dark-eyed sunburnt chill
dren Of the South and by no miracle save that
Of unending toll under the hardest conditions
The holiday tourist driving In leisureiy way
among these sheltered ravines and watching
the evanescent tones Of color In the ever-chang-
ing sea is not out of touch with serious ana
toilsome working world. Beggars may swarm
about his carriage and ders may dance the
| tarantella in bright costume for his amusement
he sips his after-dinner coffee and smokes
his cigar but life is real and earnest even IN
pleasure-oying Campania. l. ~ r