The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-10-01
v.

Gregorovius supplements his description Of tho
intellectual life OF the Romans in the fourteenth
century by some account Of their manners and
customs In the thirteenth century the Italians
had lived in the rude simplicity OF patr:archal
conditions The praise Of the simplicity of the
Florentincs which Dante places in the mouth Of
Caccia Guida and Ricobaldos eulogy upon that
OF all Italians In the time Of Frederick IL may be
exaggerated. But it Is certain that the develop
ment OF greater luxury In Italian society only
began with the time when the republics attained
great power and the courts Of the tyrants dis
q princely degree OF splsndor. The appearance
OF French customs in Italy was noticeable from
the time Of the conquest of Naples by Charles of
Aniou. VILLAIN ascribes the magniacence of
dress observed in Florence about 1912 to tho In
fluonoe OF the French who had come to the city
with the Duke OF Athens About the time of the
change OF customs in Florence, a similar phenom-
onon is also perccptible in Rome A Roman
chronicler says that men began TO alter their Dress
which. following theCatalan fashion was made
moro closely fitting; that people began to wear
hats on their heads. and to hang pockets on their
girdles. after the manner Of pilgrims. ard that tho
round beard hitherto peculiar TO hermi.s and
Spaniards, became the mode Gregorovius points
out however that not n single Grnvestone shows
us a bearded face during the fourteenth century.
was either adopted but rarely. or that a beard
not allowed on any likeness Of tho
dead Neither does any Roman gravestone
depict tght-fitting costume: the dead
all appear wearing loose dress gener-
ally buttoned from top to bottom. which was In
no wise shroud, but the dress actually worn
when living. The beretta also appears
on tho efhgy of every male figure. Tho cloths
worn by women en- the head similar TO the
present head dress OF the contadine on the Cam
pagna In ancient Florentine pictures on the
other hand, We sec that tho loose dress which had
been considered appropriate, and which Nillani
called the tog fashion made way In the fourteenth
century for the tght-ftting patchwork costume
OF bright coiors The colors were divided; for
example, one stocking would be red. the other
yellow. Hence the expression dirfJd-point
device This costume was called the mode OF
Cyprus, and was worn even by women. Their
dresses, very wide OF tho bottom were tight above
the girdle and cut so low 10 leave the breast
almost bare Women woro lavish ornaments Of
gold. Jewels and pearls and even their gowns
were embroidered with such costly decorations
Tho materials OF woollen CLOTH linen, silk
and velvet tho colors were pronounced and even
harsh In vain did magistrates issue sumptuary
laws We are told that when Cardinal Lupinus
as leRato OF the Romagna, prohibited long trains
under pohaity OF the loss OF apSolutlon, this was
to women bitterer than death He commanded
them to veil themselves medestly. They raised
outcry then appeared in the finest wells worked
in gold, more seductive than before. The signory
OF Florence forbade women to allow thick plaits
Of white or yellow silk TO hang over the face where
upon, In 1928, they assailed the Duchess OF Gala
bria with entreaties, until, at her request the
prohibition was revoked The dress Of the Roman
ladies was so magnificent as TO call forth tho
admiration OF the Queen Of Hungary on her visit