The Press., 1899-11-02

our backs on the Mer der Glace and the
heights above 1t, and descend to the val
ley In half the time occupied. in the labo-
rious climbing. The day was "a perfect
mountain day." as tourists call such clear
days following a storm, in which the
mountains, seen from the valley, are sill
houetted upon the sky in sharp, clear out
line, and the vision from above, distinct
and clear of a far stretching world below,
Is one to be remembered for lifetime.
The next morning we mount and ride
down the far-famed valley, the mountains
seeming to follow US Hospitality the while
to the gates of their domain, to speed the
departing guests and welcome the coming.
We met the "coming"-few In number,
for the season ends with October-some
In dslSgences, some a-foot and two a-wheel.
The road was good for few miles, then
rough and muddy. This mountain road
this season, as the construction of a rail-
way up the valley Is being rapidly pushed
forward in the hope that it may be ready
for the next seasons travel, hope doom
ed to disappointment, II one may judge
from the difficult stretches of territory
yet untouched. That there Is energy and
push behind the work Is evident. The
valley is full of sturdy workers. We
passed them by hundreds as we rode
down the valley. At noon we passed a
line of them, 200 or more, sitting by their
work at their midday meals. Our poor.
est, most hard-pressed would not call it a
dinner 1t consisted of hard bread, the
crust half an inch thick burnt brown, the
inside soapy and stringy, little cheese,
nothing more except in two cases; two
blacksmiths at forge had scraps OF
meat, and the last man on the line of eat.
ers had few pieces of fried potatoes on
a plate, brought him by his ten-year-old
son, who stood by. Many of the men
had hard, stolid faces, out of which all
hope of winning anything but the barest
necessities In the struggle.of life had long
since died out. The whole scene was 9
sorry sight-one long to be remembered
Riding on for thirty miles we were
driven to shelter early in the afternoon
by rain. We were glad of rest, for the
mornings run had been a hard one
through mud and over rough roads. The
next day, October 8, was clear and warm
and over good roads through beautiful
region, the lower part of the valley of the
Avre, under the most pleasing conditions
we and our wanderings in Switzerland
ended by riding into Geneva at p. m.
Ten days In Holland (3OO miles), two
weeks on the Rhine $500 miles), three
weeks in Switzerland (45O miles), sum
marizes our journey. We have had gooe
health, and have been on our wheels
more or less, every day except Sundays
have had no serious accidents, and hav,
had delightful time. We have seel
much Of the three countries, visited un
der the most favorable conditions, ant
shall carry away many bright and beauti
full pictures on memory's page for deligh
In years to come, and much food for re
flection. We understand and prize ou
own dear country all the better now
intelligently, fol the comparisons and con
trasts with other countries visited OIL
this side Of the Atlantic. We take O
little gold out of our native land, and re
turn, we believe, thousand times richie
in the higher treasure Of knowledge ant
character. Tomorrow Cd. W we eros
the border into France and begin oul
wanderings In that bright, beautiful lant
by pushing our wheels up the steep east
ern slopes of the Juras, and so on to D iol
and Paris, which we hope to reach b.
Nov. 1. We shall say goodbye to Switz
erland with reluctance, for this beautiful
favored land more than any other foreigl
country appeals to our imagination ant
heart A. IT. THREsHER