Evening star., 1899-03-04
What the Great Masters in Dress
Show This Spring.
LOUIS IV GOWN WITH ROSE WREATH
Toilets for All Occasions to Suit
Old and Young.
NEW HATS AND JEWELRY
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.

Special Correspondence OF Ihe Evening star
PARIS, February IS. 1899
The bootmakers are trying to make us
believe that we must say farewell to the
common-sense shoe. Certainly the ma
jority of the models are made with half
high heels in place of the low fiat ones we
have so long been wearing. Broad-toed and
fat-heeled shoes are comfortable for some
types of feet. but there is no gain5ayinS
the fact that many feet are not built on
this plan. The high arched foot with alb
ruptly sloping instep is as much out of
place in the common-sense shoe as an In
dian in a straightjacket.
A recent hostess of dinner dance. pro-
ncunced one of the pleasantest social af-
fairs of the American colony's winter,
made q picture of youthful loveliness in
gown of white crepe de chine, recalling in
style the favored modes of the Louis XIV
period. the overskirt drapery being looped
up back to show petticOat of plain plated
repe de chine. The rest of the garment
was embroidered with a pretty pattern in
jeweied beads. Her hair was effectively ar
ranged and finished off with pale blue rib
bons and pink roses y bow and rose by
the way. are now the accepted evening
headdress. The hair is built high and
rather forward. with carefully arranged
curls on the forehead. Head wreaths of
flowers are shaped not unlike the tiaras
whose place they are usurping. Wood an
menOts look well woven into wreaths.
Braid and Ribbon Rufies.
The present use of braids and ribbon ruff
filings is one which lends itself admirably
to the making up of frocks for young
misses from ten to fifteen years of age.
Some very pretty models 1 saw at one of
the best of the great magasins. shop
noted for its artistic gowns for girls. One
of these costumes for maiden of fourteen
to fifteen was blue canvas, trimmed with
blue and white silk braid. Four rows of
the braid outlined an apron drapery on the
skirt. The high collar. encircled with three
rows Of braid. and the sleeves, with double
were most effective A bolero jacket with
wide rcvers falling back to the sleeves. was
faced with parallel rows of the narrow
braid and rows of small buttons. A belt
claspeG by a cut steel buckle was finished
on either edge with the braid.
second frock as chic and dainty in its
details as many more pTetentious garments
Tor adults turned out by the most fashion,
able shops or the Rue de la Paix was fash
ioned of brown and white checked goods.
A yoke of tucked white silk trimmed below
by a wide band Of brown velvet was sur
rounded in its turn by a narrow frill of silk
and lace. with a small bow of ribbon in the
center of the front of the velvet band. The
velvet collar about the neck was surmount-
cd by its little ruffie, while still another
ruti1e gave dainty finish to the bottom
of the sleeves. On the skirt a rather deep
er ruftle of rIcked ribbon and lace marked
out an overskirt on the clCth. The bodice
was slightly pouched just where ii met the
rosette-like cluster of ribbon that closed
the girdle- On the sleeves were rather pro-
Eounced puffs trimmed just below the
shoulders with ruff1es of ribbon.
Youthful Simplicity.
Yet a third gown charmed me with its
simple but artistic adaptation of means to
an end. 1t was of red serge. of the
duIl nd chief
beauty was a liberal use of black satin
ribbon gathered into a full but narrow frill
and headed by a narrow silk braid. This
trimming was put on circling the skirt to
form rounded side panels. and upon the
bodice TO outline a N-shaped yoke about
plated red silk. In rows down one side
of the waist this trimming also 1t
was clasped the shoulder and just be-
low it with black jet buckle. The sleeves
of this gown, too, were furnished with
rather high pufis. On adult gowns it is
unusual to see any fuliness the sleeves
The object Of the puffs on the misses
gowns is apparent. II is to hide the gaunt-
ness and ungainliness of the arm of the
average growing girl.
green cheyiot gown, with a very full
bodice poucking over belt of white kid
was much admired by SightseerS and buy
ers in the dressmaking department of the
shop. The square yoke of tucked red silk
was framed in cross rows of white braid
The sleeves were full and high on the
elbows they were supplied with four mar
row tucks- An overskirt pattern was
braided on the skirt in three narrow rows
Little Change In Hats.
Hats and bonnets have not greatly
changed in fashion since the beginning of
the season. 1t is not likely there Will be
any great change until the winter head
gear is cast aside for the lighter and gayer
ehapeaux OF spring. In a recent display of
nf
was being made for a Russian princess
A bow Of white velvet at one side was
gathered into an original knot TO support
a feecy bunch of white ostrich tips The
tuile. which was much twisted and gath
cred. was dashed with touches of silver.
hat OF cream-white felt. intended for
theater wear, while pleasing in appearance
belonged TO the class of headgear which
should be doffed at the play out of mercy
TO those behind the owner Ii was jauntily
turned up at one side and caught with a
rosette of cream silk edged with narrow
black velvet ribbon. The black velvet
edged the hat and touched up the soft
white SIX ribbon that alternated with the
white heather with which IL was further
ornamented. Very unique was a hal of
sable, with side trimming of autumn
leaves and bow of black watered ribbon
ornament was the only thing to relieve
the simplicity of the front of the hat.
Plenty Novelty in Jeweiry.
In the way of jewelry those who worship
al the shrine of change are reveling in a
new Kind OF chain. 1t consists of small
1pDes strung between brilliants and pearls
The chain goes twice about the neck. and
suspended from it the breast reposes a
medal Rock crystal surrounded by bril-
Hants formed one very pretty style of
iockets.
The incroyable lorgnon is the latest thing
for the eyes. 1t consists of folding eye
glasses mounted on jeweled handle and
folding when not in use
Jeweiry Is now seen in the most fetching
designs in waist buckles and buttons. EN-.
eraldS. rubies and even sapphires are
aod rr.- =