The times., 1899-07-02

in the balance. The heads OF the great
dressmaking establishments are in confer
erce. and one bit of news has leaked out
that is we are to have larger sleeves next
autumn. Let US hope we are also to have
shorter, fuller skirts for our latitude of
body has been so dreadfully sacrificed to
secure excessive longitude that womankind
begins to bear, when in her grand Partisan
toilet less resemblance than ever TO hui
manity and more striking likeness to
dragon fly.
Now behold, in the interest of what
has been said above, some of the wraps
that are typical and influential in the
realms of the smartly dressed Black
silk and pongee and brilliantine dust
cloaks are strong elements in every full
wardrobe and some OF them are made
with great art, while capes with three
falls. knee long redingotes, and cutaway
top coats in very light melton, covert, sand
cloth and Scotch reversible are the wraps
taken along when junketing about on
yachts. steamers, and at cooler Northern
resorts.
One and all. these comforters are cut to
grip the figure closely from neck to knee.
Capes depending in three falls are the
newest design, and there is no gracious
fare at shoulders or hips. On the capes.
in place of the time-honored, though su-
perfiuous hood, scarf OF bright silk is
draped about the shoulders, either High
land plaid or a silk showing Roman bands
is adopted. and this undeniably has a pleas
ing effect against the sober browns and
greys. which all the capes are colored-
The really lovely dust cloaks seem
almost imperative adjuncts of the driving
toilets, at golf tournaments. polo games,
etc, and ostensibly they serve as protec-
tions against glare and dust for the deli
cate muslin, lace, and foulard gowns they
cover. In reality they do duty as foils
for the ethereal toilets and their high
medici collars all frilled with lace answer
as fine backgrounds for flowery bonnets.
A perfectly loose sacque OF lightest grey
waterproof cloth falling TO the knees and
belted by band of the same goods is the
smart sea wrap whether for yachting.
pacing the sands by moonlight or crossing
The ocean. and queer output OF the season
is q growing partiality among women for
wearing caps. At the seaside younger
women have suddenly developed a pro-
found liking for a big pudding shaped
affair of the toughest white serge. gath
cred at the centre OF the top 10 huge red
silk ponpon. A broad white silk sisor,
lined with pale pink taffeta, juts well cut
faintest pearl pink chiffon laid over the
face. crossed at the back OF the head end
tied under one ear with a bow and ends
nearly yard long is one OF the favorite
caps for yachting.
Gollng women are finding comfort in
grey felt Robin Hoods that are the quaint
est prettiest caps out The crown of a
Robin Hood is round, fits the head easily,
is moderately high, and against this the
unbound two-inch wide brim. that dimin-
ishes to a mere nothing in the rear, turns
up on both sides, so that long, pointed
visor extends over the eyes. On one side
wheresfhe brim hattens against the crown,
a Icng, very flexible Geek quill is thrust
through slits in the felt; on the other
side a rosette of bright silk fastens brim
and crown together with brass or steel
disk button. Besides these novelties is
the polo that tennis girls use, while those
who ride about a-wheel or a-horse lean to
the easy stitched cloth NJ. F. H, which is
cut on an enlarged pattern OF the velvet
cap a master of the fox hounds wears.
The one drawback TO the caps is that
only young and pretty women look well
in them, and no woman, if she has passed
the first quarter of a century mark should
attempt a cap unless she is slim. small
and looks five years less than her age.
All women Will do well to adopt the
Liberty silk streamers that were first in
A piece of the flmy silk. some three yards
long and nearly yard wide, every woman
who drives or sails this summer. wears,
tied in a big bow under her chin with
loops and ends Haunting TO the breeze. and
some of them buy very transparent chiffon
and cover their large hats and their faces
with II as a veil. cross the scarf, knot IT
under the chin and throw the ends to the
breeze. Nothing seems more daintily fem
mime than these fairy sails, usually sweet
ly perfumed with orrls. ripping about
head and shoulders. shedding fragrance
and becoming shadow on the wearer's
head and face.
Definitely the chain is gone. Too great
popularity killed It, In its place the ban
gle ventures to put forth but the result is
doubtful, ard by determinedly putting off
their watches women have ceased TO make
themselves the slaves Of time. In truth,
never was so little jewelry worn as in this
summer of grace, and the fancy for ORR
entail patterns is as marked as ever. At
night in the eoifiure very charming
wreaths Of small clear green enameled
leaves. ivy. myrtle laurel. bay. and grape
foliage fasten among puffs and braids, and
sometimes a row OF leaves forms the top
edging for tucking comb.
With the setting in of a temperature that
is significant of the dog days, stiff linen
collars have been cast from their proud
kind finds great comfort in stocks of
snowy pique or cheviot that do not finish
with the four-in-hand or water fall fold
in front When passed twice about the
neck the ends OF the easy chokers ere
hooked together, and then a hourishing
bow of lawn or muslin. soft as a cloudlet
and crisped with lace is pinned under the
chin, and loi perfect comfort and Eash-
ionsble frivolity go hand in hand.
Tha hi nF hos hcx1s fC tzyf fia.vE
a sort OF delicate employment for the agile
hands OF country house visiting. piazza
iounging ladies, and swan bows they are
called out OF compliment TO their white
ness and fiufaness. Some OF them are large
enough TO form perfect facades for shirt
waists their frills and tips falling to the
waist line, but the neck band TO which
they are attached is invariably double
twist of starchless white cheyiot''
Thread gloves, having for years been the
Joy o. the simple and sensible, have re-
Gently been taken up with a rush by the
fashionable and rather freakish element
This Is chiefly because with their capital
suede Isle gloves the manufacturers have
achieved a cotton hand covering that fits
exactly and smartly. Thread gloves In a
variety of soft tones are preferable to silk
and women with pretty, plump hands and
arms wear elbow sleeved muslins in the
afternoon, with flesh, pink, or lilac suede
Isle gloves reaching to the crook OF the
arm and end OF the sleeve. One potent
argument in favor of these hand cover
ings is that not only are they cool, perfect
protectors against sunburn, but they wash
just like Isle thread stockings
Gauze thread hose and hand embroid-
cred stockings are the choice for wear
with slippers in place OF the luxurious