The record-union., 1899-10-15

While the traditional white satin con-
tinues to be a greatly favored material
for bridal gowns, it is this season
rivalled by other rich textiles. The de-
cided tendency toward the use OF every
sort of soft, clinging fabric is very
noticeable among the newest models or
wedding toilets. Peau de sole, crepe
de chine, mousseline brilliante over
faille, Liberty gauze over satin royal
and, lastly, lace of the most elegant
description, are all employed, and IN
making up the fabric the princesse
style is notably favored. Entire lace
waists, or lace guimpes and sleeves
are seen upon some models, and on oth-
ers there are lace overskirts arranged
above clinging trained skirts of peau
de sole or lustrous repped silk with
draped f1ounce to match placed around
the bottom of the skirt.
Attractive and serviceable costumes
of mohair or alpaca appear in qualities
less coarse and more clinging and
pliable than those popular a year ago.
although these heavier weaves are still
in favor among many women. a
silky mohair has a little velvet jacket
bodice, turned back to show q blouse
vest of handsome taffeta silk in tartan
patterns, barred with satin lines in
green and geranium red. Il pointed
girdle matches the jacket in fabric, and
the sleeves are very close 10 the arms,
with flaring bell cuffs lined with the
plaid.
At many of the fancy dry goods
stores are sold little ruches of NOUS
seline de sole nearly an inch wide, in
black, white, cream, pink, etc. These
tiny trimmings can be utilized in many
ways They cost but 10 cents a yard,
and the cream or white styles look par
ticularly well as fnishings for tea
gowns, breakfast jackets, Etons, etc,
and to edge collars of folded silk or to
border f1ounces or frills. They can
also be used on everyday hats in
black and evening bonnets or hats in
white, and for edging toilet scarfs, bu-
reau cushions, etc, they are both
handy and effective.
The light but effective lace bOas are
a very becoming substitute for the
heavier sort of fur to be worn later on.
Next to a Marabout-feather boa, one
of lace is the prettiest, and as those
sold in the shops when made of hand
some lace, are expensive, they can be
copied at home by a deft needle
woman. Purchase two yards and
half, or more if you wish one Of the
dangling sort, of round silk cord,
slightly more than triple this amount
of lace, and then sew it round and
round the cord, beginning always from
the center of the back so as to reverse
the fall Of the lace, causing it to droop
in a bell-like fashion on either side
of the neck. The round boa takes
more lace than the fiat stole shape.
Importers and merchants have
opened to view some novel weaves in
French camers-hair, fine soft Oxford
suitings, rich heavy AugUstines, ap-
propriate for comfortable and durable
wear the winter through; covert suit
ings in tan, silver gray, Roman swal-
low and military blue, black, and
brown in numerous stylish dyes; smart
boulevard cloths, serges, fifty -six-inch
diagonaIs. and Scotch cheviots, and
checks woven in two indistinct shades
of one color. Other fabrics, in tweed
sacking, and homespun, retain the
chevron effects in dark or contrasting
color, and still other costume suit
ings show an underweave of semi-in-
visible coloring. A new material
Labrador suiting, is almost as heavy
as thick matted French felt, but as
soft and fine to the touch as camers-
hair, being made of purest Saxon wool
The 1oose-fronted box coat of British
red cloth with chinchilla revers, the
French boulevard jacket of Russian
blue with trimmings of white silk ma
chine stitching, the short. double
breasted English jacket of silky cor
duroy, and the long Raglan formed of
heather mixed tweed, with triple shoul-
der capes lined with geranium-red silk
are among the latest styles in autumn
wraps
The lightweight faced cloths in plain
colors are being much used for autumn
costumes. They are to be seen in silver
blue, in deep royal Russian "a color so
strikingly becoming to many women),
in plum blue, with dark red in its
golden and leaf-browns, the mahogany
tints of reddish cast, and a new old
rose. Corded silk is occasionally used
in combination with faced cloth, when
the costume is to be used for special
elegant purposes. In many cases, how
ever, all combinations and also all
garnitures are dispensed with, and silk
machine stitching and small tailor but
tons and strappings of the cloth are
the only attempts at decorating either
skirt, jacket or redingote. Occasion
ally exception is made on a picturesque
machine stitched hood. which this sea-
son reaches to the shoulder.
Tt was some time ago that fashion
allowed us to wear dress sleeves that
looked as if they did not belong to the
gown to which they were attached. We
nay once more put sleeves Of fancy
satin, matelasse, velvet, corded silk or