The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1899-09-10

sleeves and broad cuffs for dress waist
sleeves and cuffs that drop over the
hand; it is easy, therefore, to hazard
prophecy in favor OF this fashion that is
going to rob our shirt waists of one-half
their simple charm.
most reasonable practice struggling
for foothold is that OF Unfortunately
trimming sleeves. There is only one way
sleeve can ever be trimmed and that
on the length of the arm. Any woman
who knows the difference between gra ce
and gracelessness will never try to de-
strOy the long line running from shoulder
to finger tips by breaking it at the elbow
with trimming and by adding trimming
again between elbow and shoulder, for
Immediately when that is done her waist
line begins to shorten, On a stout woman
elbow decoration is an enormity, but from
Paris come suggestions nevertheless in
favor of hanging a row of fringe at top,
bottom and midway of sleeves, else
bracelet effect in embroidery is done
there, or a fanciful pattern in stitchery
and on some Of the most sumptuous cos
tunes lace or embroidered encrustation
clasps the arm at the elbow and sends
out sprays along the outside Of the arm
to communicate with cuff and shoulder
and hide the seam. In relation to sleeves
1t Is necessary to report that women will
begin again this fall to put frills of lace
inside their knuckle long cuffs, but that
this will be done on the gown that is
meant to play very ceremonious part.
For two winter seasons the most state
ly costume procurable was a velvet of a
dark shade embellished with sable At
the receptions to come damasked silk will
be queen, and lace, very naturally will
serve as chief aid to the splendor Of the
compilation. 1t is a trif1ing detail, but
worth mentioning, that with her fine
damasked satin gown the modish woman
will wear one jeweled or miniature set
bracelet clasped on her left wrist outside
her sleeve. The jewel or miniature for
such bracelet turns on the gold circlet
by pivot, end its under side is a small
watch, for this is supposed to be the po-
itely inconspicuous method of keeping in
touch with time
Another artistic adjunct of the perfect
autumn toilet that Games to US from over
the seas is the black or dark blue silk
umbrella with an architectural handle
The shaft of the handle is ivory or an
expensive wood, smooth or fluted. and
carved at the top in the most perfect
miniature Of an Ionic. Dorie or Corinth-
ian capital This is very chaste and deco
rative, as it should be- but the possibili-
ties of vulgarizing the design is clearly
shown by some immensely costly column
handles wrought of silver and gold or
gunmetal and thickly spangled with real
jewels. These will only appear beautiful
and desirable until they are copied in
mock gems and plated metal
Early as 1t is women are busy selecting
their fur collarettes and muffs or taJ5ino
notes and getting expert advice from va
rfous sources on this point. When. with
a smooth surfaced coat you prornsa IN
use neck piece and hand warmer only
cinnamon or cub bear are the propar
skins to select from. 1t is almost iynDes
slble to have the collar built too higb
and some Of the pretty shapes comuIeteJ,
merely as models for future cow show
me lofty collars cut in two acute points
pehlnd, or scalloped all around the mn
standing edge. Below this protecting
hedge tbout the neck flows out on the
shoulders, not a series of tails but fur
taSSe1S. These are balls OF the dean soft
Ea'r big as oranges, and tackled loosely
but so close together upon a cape of some
short haired cheaper fur or velvet that
the basis is obscured and a comfortable
run OF HuHy balls seem to hang airily
about the shoulders. There are women,
1t apepars, with skins so delicate that tbe
fur of the baby bear even irritates their
sensitive cheeks and ears when used az
lining for the high collars. In conse-
quence We have tall collars lined with the
softeSt and most expensive Persian cat
fur, and it will by no means be unfash-
1onabie later to wear with your cloth
coat high detachable cloth collar lined
with what is called blue Persian, and in
front the collar extends over the chest
in a couple of broad fur-faced rcvers
Known as chest protectors
It Is not of the smallest modish mo-
ment whether you select large or small
muff, round barrel-shaped cylinder Of
fur or one Of the convenient reticuIe
forms, because they are all equally es
teemed as adjuncts to dress and comfort
and will be worn on small chains made
or two-1neh lengths Of dark velvet cord
linked together with small hooks of gold
or silver
No longer does it require divining rod
to discover which way the dress trim
mings are tending, for every professional
needle woman is already busy with the
application of dark cloth bands to light
surfaced goods, or light colored cloth
bands to a heavy dark silk surface
Either way the combination is made the
result Is equally satisfactory, and the ut
most richness Of appearance is gained by
laying long straps Of black French lady's
cloth on heavy mole grey satin gown.
This was the identifying process fol-
lowed in one Of the new calling gowns
evolved by Partisan taste as an ideal for
this seasons imitation. Over the gray
skirt ran the dark welts of cloth clear to
the foot, and they were finished by hav-
ing their ends cut in large circles While
they ran down from the hip on the skirt
these cloth bands took an upward mo-
ton on the bolero jacket waist and the
consequence was an aspect of most ex-
qutsite slenderness for the wearer of tina
gown, and the tableau of the whole was
an appearance of most cheerful elegance.
despite the two sober mediums in which
the designer had worked.
Grey and black. or grey and white. or
clear black and white will, as is invari-
ably the case every early autumn, be
again the favoIite combinations for OPEN
ing the season, but the 1nonotony Of this
serious-looIling rainent will be largely
relieved by the exceedingly gay hats and
bonnets. The Innings Of brims are all
brilliant. for the milliners are facing
their every felt shape with green, or
damson OF royal blue, or golden brown
velvet, corrugated with tucks so fine that
the needle that makes them seems to do
no moro than miss the deep-piled sur
face. Tucked or, one should more truth
fully say. stitched antique velvet is one
Of the agents serving in this good cause.