The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1899-02-19
FOR FEMININE READERS
CLINGING EFFECTS AND LIGHT Cox
ORs WILL DISTINGUISH GOWNS.
The stout Woman and the Little One
Have Their Own TrOubIes-A Club
'ReadinG Room" and Its Literature.

Many of the new spring costumes will be
hght IN color as well as weight, and when
the weather will permit the removal Of
wraps, the size of the fashionable woman,
says the fashion writer of the New York
Post viii be in strong contrast to that of
season or so ago. when full, spreading
sleeves and volumnous skirts were the rule.
The close sleeves and the straight, cling
ing demi-trained skirts are designed to give
the effect of height and slenderness. This
season the material that will not cling
closely to the figure has no part among the
most fashionable creations in dress. Drap
dAlma and drap d'ete are much used also
the beautiful cloth called drap de Chine,
whlch is as fine, rich, and glossy as any OF
the handsome faced cloths, and lighter in
weight Even the silks, satins and brocades,
OF which the Partisan atelier so heartily ap-
proves, are quite without the dressing"
formerly characteristic of these textiles,
and cling to the figure. Pfque and linen will
take high place this summer among the
afternoon costumes for country or seaside
wear Although both of these are distinctly
hot-weather fabrics, they are not as COM
Portable to wear as almost any of the other
countless diaphanous or semi-transparent
materials, but, following the vogue of all
fabrics this year, they are much more pill
able and softer to the touch than formerly,
and the colors brought out in both piques
and linens are very charming. The most
fashionable models will be tailor-made, with
plain machine-stitched or gimp-trimmed
skirts, and coats of the very short jaunty,
round-fronted order. On these rather ex-
pensive gowns handsome white applique de-
signs or linen braid in fancy patterns will
be applied very much as similar decora-
tions were used all winter on cloth cos
tunes. Some will be white throughout,
others will have pink, yellow, or red blouse
waists, revers, collar and cuffs, or shirt
waists Of wash silk. Besides the very COM
plete and varied styles in new coats and
Jackets, there are also some very pretty
small capeS and pelernes, with and with
out long stole fronts their originality con-
sisting chiefly in their greatly varied fabrics
and novel and beautiful finishings, two or
three different materials being employed in
their formation. They are gTaced with silk
embroideries, applique bands, points and
special neck shoulder and stole pieces, and
decorations in chenille and velvet cutWork
with fringes to match. A simple tailor-made
cape of fine cloth may be chaTmingly elabO-
rated by the use of these garnitures, and Il
small wrap of special distinction produced.
The sheath-shaped skirts of Introductory
tailor gowns are in many instances unlined
IL the SOOuS are dL all neaNy- FRENCH ue-
Signers have found it almost impossible to
give them the proper clinging fit about the
hips and entire upper portion with even
light silk Innings. To provide each skirt with
the necessary flare on the lower portion the
hem is silk-faced and trimmed with very
many rows of Notwithstanding, lines of
gimp, straps and buttons and other tailor
finishings, the skirt TO be worn over a silk
petticoat deliberately trimmed with plated
or gathered frills and flounces, which are
generally corded at the edges to aid in pro-
ducing the required dstended effect Other
models of lighter wool have the usual silk
Innings, but to give the svelte effect these
are devoid of dressing" clinging so close
ly to the outer skirt material that the addi-
tional thickness is hardly perceptible.
1t is remarkable what a variety of con-
trasting styles and novel and taking effects
can be produced season after season with
simple and modest an article Of
dress as the shirt waist. All rumOrs
concerning the passing of this small
garment are silenced when every available
space in shop and display window is taken
up with an advance display of numbers of
fresh models. Tradespeople affirm that this
season will surpass all others in the use Of
these neat, comfortable and economical
styles. for the reason that there are more
open-fronted shapes in diminutive jackets,
requiring shirt waists beneath, for spring
and summer, when no wraps are required.