The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-10-11
DELMONICO'S CHEF DEAD.
THE GREAT RANHoFER SUCCUHBs TO
BRIGHTS DISEISE.

Even In Boyhood He Had Achieved Such
Fam" That He Was Called Upon to Take
Charge of tho Kitchens Of Princes
and MilIionaires in France-Thirty-four
Years In tho Service of the Delm onicov.
Charles Ranhofer. for thirty-four years tho
chief cook Of Delmonicos. died early on Mon
day morning at his residence. 7S2 West End
avenue. He had been sick since July /. and
previous to that time had been In poor health.
BriRhts disease caused his death. Tho fu-
neral services will be held to- day at Ran hofers
| late residence and at the church OF st. Vincent
| de Paul at IL o'clock In the forenoon. Tho
burial will be in Woodawn Cemetery.
Ranhofer was cook by descent and he be-
| longed to that number which regard their pro-
fession seriously and to be acquired only by
| long and arduous prenticeship. He was a
cook OF the old school. and one OF his friends
said yesterday that his kind was disappearing.
| not only because cooks OF the present day re-
| fused to prepare themselves so thoroughly for
their work. but because the opportunities for
such q training no longer existed as they did in
| the youth OF Ranhofer. He was born on Sept.
Z. 1886. at st. Denis in France. His father.
proprietor Of the Cafe ct Restaurant du Com
merce. determined that his son should follow
| his profession and he put tho youthful Ran
ho'er to work while still a boy.
| He served in the pantry, learned the myste-
ries Of the wine cellar and was allowed to assist
unimportantly in the more ekacting work In
| the kitchen. This early training put the boy
| 40 far forward In his duties that at the age OF
twelve his father sent him up to Paris TO learn
| the art OF pastry making under some OF tho
best masters That was In 1913. and Fleurst
OF the Boulevard de Ia Madeleine. not far from
tho Rue de Luxemo ourg, was at the height OF
| his fame as baker. So in his kitchens the
youthful Rsnhofer passed the first three years
N ri Hah aI Ia. mad ah IL,
that time that he could undertake the duties
| OF baker.in-chisfto Mercier. then in the Boule-
ward du Temple and he was latter promoted to
| wider range OF duties whom he was engaged
by Malpiece In the Rue do Sausaies.
These situations were all creditable to tho
| talents OF fifteen-ysar old boy. but tho high
! est rewards for a cooks services in those
days were to be found In the private kitchens
| OF the mighty and titled. That distinction was
soon to come to Rsnhofer. The great Molard.
chief cook to Prince Henin OF Alsace. was
ready to admit newcomer into his suite He
had to enter as kitchen boy. whatever his
| talents might be- for all who labored under
| hollard had to follow his will and way. One
day he explained to his friend Malpece that
there was a vacancy in his and tho Princes
kitchen. 1t was then that Malpieee recon-
mended highly his own young chef. especially
rrSSsinISS ot his sk1 pastry cook Mi:
well 10 a tSs fpSes. c ham to
time the kitchen b boy was only i is years oid
but professional honors were sson to cone
proper Temperature for an ortoIan pate and
snG. Hsea .oSsh S w sd
vice OF his entire at domestic EstinHe a.. to THO
9sss abe to his sS': :aad sn1
| found himself elevated to the highest place in
the s..a # .S CO Sda tn: Ts .nssS
Prince H:nin', employ for several years and
chateau offered
For two years in the capital he was the asso-
wealthy and sent them u wagons guarded by
his Whoe oSs mo the pres
i kitchen and there cooked special dinner. for
sR1a az the Spdd the As
pRs be fn int q: ~. hn s 6 %
mionsre Baron De kothsohlid who eou ia pay pay
more than h Duke e. for The chief Of hi; titchsn
hoTeyer. and in 1884 he va. empl9yed IN The
d. R9edsrer chateau az M.niII.s: He went 20
bssomRs ns.t1y cook s % %a st
SIDE n Of s Fl,
lastly at thy Hos IN ali
thess places he was chief cook, but hs stayed
e. se Of IN P Fl:
mind. In, August. 1855. he came to this
s . Fs'a be %": G S" "a him do q
undertake work that would ordinarily have
been entrusted only to much older man
the hons q the E%sssn Consul Then vPs IN
Astor place. In Washington he worked for
him from New York. and It was there that he
had the opportunity to serve banquets to many
wa. ss a.
to an hs %s sH II s bssf b
work with Benois. his old associate. who was
came bacS 70 NV YORK and went
Charge esf Of The n res.urant e H. r remansd
there for only short time however, as in 1862
| he hrst went into the employ OF tho Delmonico
ana Fs V' since tRsn
ins to so'S s. BEEN EH
continuously in charge Of. the Delmonico
the to Ssns
fer the rest 81 hs lie; Thai, was Immediately
s.tablishmsnt He opened hotel not far from
Pari. and for nearly three years tried to aceus-
np to e Sa e
again assume charge OF Affairs. Early In 1879
he returned. and until the time OF his death
remained as the chief cook OF the restaurant,
entire day in the Kitchens OF the restaurant,
Later 1t had been his custom to go there at 10
o'clock remain until |. and then returning
at 4. stay until after the dinner was served.
1t was his duty to give all orders for the
| preparation Of dinner. superintend the market
Ing, decide, on the price dish wa; to cost and
| arrange all menus for special dinners. He
| had an assist ant Htaff OF iorty-two persons. so
| his duties were largely advisory, He was the
| absolute rulAr In the Kitchen md from his
| word there was no appeal An assistant chef
helped him. and he had also a pantry chef.
| four men for the soups and sauces. three for
the roasts and broiled meats and three for the
| entremet There werc also eight m en- under
him to cut meat and fowls. to look after game
and cold pieces. and others who looked nfter
pastries. fancy ices table decorations and other
| details of the daily service.
A few yenra ago Rnnhoier published n cook
| book called The Epicurean" in WHICH many Of
his most famous receirts were contained, He
! leaves five children. three sons and two dauRh-
terra. RHnhoter had made a small fortune in
his bus mess. His home on West End avenue
| Ia handsome one Several years ago
| he was elarted honorary president for life Of