The age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1897-1902, 1899-12-31

aof uncertainty, during which time the fem
lsAsine world has wavered between the short
Jacket and the long cloak, fashion has
finally decided in favor OF the latter.
These long cloaks are known as the box,
sithe automobile and the Princess. The lat
Iter Is Tight fitting, but is open in the front,
with rounding shape. The box coat is very
loose and absolutely without shape, being
94helned to set out from the figure rather
than follow it. The automobile cloak is
longer than any of these and is principally
distinguished by its color and material.
The formers els very bright and the latter Is
rich.
As an example of the automobile may be
mentioned a cloak worn by Mrs. Aston in
Paris not long ago. 1t was an automobile
cloak of red of the color that takes its
name from the style of cloak 1t was put
together by strapplngs of the same cloth
heavily stitched while stltchings outlined
the pocket flaps and Indicated the epau-
lettes. A manten eollarette with stole ends
worn with the cloak
This is the first season that the tasteful
French woman has allowed herself to be
carried away by new vogue to the exelu-
sion of its prettiness. Thetiong cloaks are
new and striking, but 1t cannot be said
that they are pretty They are English in
style rather than French, yet they have
struck Paris with force and fury that are
ind~cpfbable. At a reception at the house
of Madame Loubet few days ago I over
f iledlu al WOiildH say. L WOuutT IL any per
son really admires those long, loose
cloaks."
To which her stalwart companion made
reply, 81 am sure man likes Them
Yet. as Lady Teazle says: 'Lud would
you have me be out of the fashion," And
so the long cloak is worn. Yet this may be
said for it that it hides an ugly figure, as
well pretty one and clothes all in its
enveloping mantle of vouminousness.
Now that the long cloak has been at
tackled, it can also be defended On the
ground of healthfuness it has no equal, for
it protects the figure well that a woman
can wear her lighter and prettier gowns
all the winter in the street without danger
to her health. With handsome hat set
over a pretty face, with smart furs and
gloves, there is a smartness that is very
fetching
Take long Princess cloak of pearl gray
cloth. 1t was tig1ht-fitting at the sides and
back and rather clinging in front. Such a
cloak a ; this was worn at a reception given
not long ago by Mrs. Ogden Goelet As
the family is in half mourning 1t was not
gay affair-merely an afternoon at home
yet very elegant from the wealth and sta
ton of the family. Miss Goelet is the heir
ess of whom so many engagements have
been announced, and her mother is the lady
so much gosSiped about as the possible
fianeee of William Waldorf Astor.
The guests called in long cloaks. While
the long cloak is not a dressy garment, It
is worn for calling. Being so elegantly
made, 1t has acquired dignity not its own,
and, though little better than the ulster
from a general point of view. de becomes by
its aesthetic materials a thing of elegance
This cloak was of pearl gray cloth. with
satin finish. 1t was as fine satin.
Pearl gray satin laid in folds formed a
rich border and the same trimming ex-
tended in curious pattern from the arm
holes downward. A narrow band of chin
chilla extended around the entire cloak,
bordering the high collar and the front
and following the edge of the cloak around
dts entire boundary.
The cuff was formed by a novel arrange
ment consisting of bands, of gray satin bor-
dered with ohinchilla.
touch of brilliancy was afforded by the
liring of the cuffs and collar with a most
delicate conch shell pink satin.
This elegant cloak was cleverly initiated
for her own wear by an American art stu
dent in Paris. Happening to see 1T at the
rooms of the couturiere, She purchased .
long plain Princess cloak of ecru satin
cloth, not nearly as rich as the model, hut
very pretty.
The folds of satin she cleverly initiated
by bands of eoru ribbon which We're ap-
piled to the cloth in such way as ITO over
lay eachother, hooking like folds. There
was a deal of stitching in black, and the
whole cloak was bordered by the narrowest
band of gray astraehan. The collar, which
was a Medici of unusual cut, was lined with
white.
Panne velvet makes a delightful skirt for
these loose coats. lit is generally cut with
a deep ripple around the foot the ripples
being appliqued with various designs.
A panne velvet skirt was appliqued with
figures of Russian lace This lace Is COM
ing greatly in favor. 1t is effective, elegant
and very durable, 1t is used upon panne
velvet, upon parma cloth, and upon the
large family of satin-faced goods
tlha 1atN ip how olo IL
been mentioned. 1t is three-quarters long
and hangs perfectly straight around the
figure without suggestion of end or of
shape.
=. Three cloaks, two of them on the paletot
vapety were so beau-modish to claim
attention. One was of castor gray lbuttoned
down the front with big white pearl but
y tons of a pearl so clear yet shading so
blue, that you knew the buttons to be as
costly as any semi-precious gems
The lapels were scalloped and were heav-
fly stitched with white SATIN The stand
ing collar was also sealloped and finished
in the same way. Strappings of the castor
gray were used for a neck trimming. A
foque of smoky gray velvet was attractive
from the fact that Vt was hand-panted,
with petals of daisies, all in white and
trimmed with the tinest sequins of steel.
narrow trimming of mink supplied the
note of ecru harmony to the costume
A box coat was remarkable for its eccen-
trio back. 1T was OF care Siu idll satln-
faced CLOTH very heavy. The seams in the
back were stitched, and odd Grecian
irregular-ity marked the back of the waist
line The square tab-like projections were
stitched, and upon each square there was
button.
An effort was made this winter to revive
sincerity in woman's dress. No buttons
were to be used unless they actually but
toned something. But this was found i'm
practicable carried out to the letter Yet