The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1899-12-10

M success unless her wardrobe
~ NJ contains at least one gown
made all OF velvet velvet is the
fabric Of the year par excellence, and its
limitations are so wide that It reigns with
equal favor at receptions. on the prone
made. n the ballroom and even In the bou-
doir II may be all In one solid color, or II
may bo figured. or 1t may be plated In
raised linea. on taffeta ground. It may
be stout or supple. In old or new shades.
dull or mirrored. 1t may be all OF silk. or
alas. hardest fact to record, It is pernisst-
Bile with cotton back.
Brilliant Rlistening, shining. sparkling,
lustrous. are few of the adjectives that
characterize all OF the materials that are
to be In high vogue for the next rev
months. Velvet. Of course. is no exception
to the rule. 1t Is manufactured now IN
very light weight, under the new name OF
velourr mousseline, In the most distracting
shades particularly suitable for young
Urls and women It 10 delight to the
eye. II has that magnetic attraction to
the gaze that clouds and live Goals have.
in that 1t falls In folds that catch ana
blotches OF high-Ights and the distinct
shadows seem to shift and change In form
with the slightest motion OF the wearer.
The whole surface 10 as smooth and AZ
glossy az satin.
Extravagance in dress this season seems
10 % 4 MINOR COH1iu6I0uVH nVt WI th pSe.s-
ering about, and My Lady Plentiful trails
about with her velvet robe spreading In rip
pies that lie several inches on the ground.
an the way around. to say nothing OF
generously extending demi-train. The backs
Of tho skirtA hanging AZ they DO In long.
straight folds. rejecting the light IN sien-
der streaks have been POLITICALLY hkened
to moonbeams.
II has only been short time since We
were forewarned that our skirts must be
tight-not just simply tight. but Of that
anatomical tightnez shocking alike to tine
moralist and the woman Of ungainly pro-
portions. Every woman who has any claim
to eoodly outline has availed herself Of this
graceful mode, and like all fashions that
have ingratfated themselves into the favor
OF the beautiful. It will be long before they
are abolished. for fashion has always been
ted by beauty. despite the protests OF the
great biz large majority. For the latter,
however. new-shaped skirts have been de-
Wired that are calculated to lend at least
semi-concealment to the deficiencies of the
figure. No less a designer than Paquin Is
the perpetrntor of the flare-tucked skirts.
that are slowly but surely gaining hold.
even ON this side of the water At the top
the skirt Is fitted tight by means Of per-
pendicular tucks. that are stitched part
way down and unstitched the rest OF the
way. giving ample fullness to the bottom
OF the skirt. In this case regular plaits
are used instead Of tucka They are Tapped
over and stitched down tight at the top all
the way around, the stitching ending
abruptly just be.ow the hip line. From
here the plaits are allowed to flare. The
material used In the model Is gray satin
cashmere. 1t is finished inside with a silk
drop skirt of The same shade.
The Flare Tucked skirt.
A the skirt y circularly cut. the plaits
are wider at the Sx1tt6na than at the top,
something like the unstitched sun piait-
ing hat has been worn for several years.
The bodice Is covered with heavy all-over
lace, re-embroidered with Jet and chenille.
The full guimpe and stock are of white
mousseline de sole. Turning back from
the v-shaped opening at the neck are two
long narrow reveres Of black taffeta. The
corselet. which serves as vest. IL also OF
black taffeta At the front the last bolero
is distinctly cutaway. but behind It ends
simply In a small point. With the suit Is
worn dashing hat made of stitched bands
OF velvet and satin and trimmed with large
pinwbeel rosettes Of taffeta. The costume
represents caprice Of fashion. The skirt
Is called full, but in reality 1t is as tenseIy
tight about the body as the habit ba cked
skirt The separate lining Is tight almost
to the ankles. where It Ii fiared out with a.
Y full silk founce.
For obvious reasons manufacturers ana
modistes alike congratulate themselves on
the probable success Of skirts that entail
an abundance of material One verv prom
tnent tailor said the other day that he IN
using an entire width of broadc1oth in the
backs OF skirts for middle-aged women.
Everyone knows that broadcioth measures
at least ffty-four inches At either side
Of the back breadth was stitched an addi-
uonai triangular piece to help out the
requisite mare at the bottom. The fuliness
Is laid In double box or single box plaits.
Exquisite Matinee Costume.
An exquisite tailored gown that has
lately been turned out for matinee cos
tune Is In ivory white cloth. Groups Of
tucks mark 1t from top to bottom. The
skirt and waist are made seperate. h,,t
tney assimilate princess effect by hav-
ing the tucks on the skirt in line with
those on the waist. Beginning at the COL
lar and ending at the feet, straight down
sAe 'front.' OF the gown is BAND OF en-
Droidery. Along the bottom of the skirt
at the fiat intervals between the tucks,
this embroidery is repeated in detached
motifs. All double seams on the corners
are cunningly hidden away between the
tucks. The lining Is fitted with darts in
the regulation way. while the tucks are
adroftly managed to adjust the cloth.
From the knees down the tucks are left
unstitched. The drop skirt lining of taft
feta Is made by a narrower pattern. Flat
embroidered pieces similar to epaulettes
start Mt the collar and spread to the
shoulders. just covering the shoulder
seams. The sleeves are long and tight,
with the seams hidden in small groups
Of tucks. A straight band of embroidery
decorates them from shoulder to wrist.
The collar is high and straight, and dec
GRATED with a motif of embroidery d.
rectly In front. The hat to harmonic
should be of black velvet. faced becom-
ingly with white velvet mirrored. The
crown should be small and encircled
loosely with a drapery of white mirrored
velvet. catching up at one side great
bunch of black ostrich tips.
A great French artist Is the author OF
n rule well known among students that
to obtain effective results portrait paint
er should always mass the blacklist black
and the whitest white in his picture about
the face. 1t is a rule that may not be
overlooked in the study Of dress.
Skirt for n Slender Maid.
Another charming model WAS mazda for