The Worcester spy. [volume] (Worcester, Mass.) 1898-1904, 1899-11-26
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Mrs Lincoln, the famous cook and
lecturer on household economics, writes
as follows on the making of mayon-
naise dressing:
A mayonnaise dressing is commonly
supposed to be made of olive oil and
uncooked eggs, and the thickening of
the mixture is accomplished by grad
ual and thorough blending of the two
materials, instead of by the heat of boil
ing or steaming. But we often see the
name applied to any thick dressing by
those who are not conVersant with Gull
mary nomenclature. Many devices for
accomplishing this blending of egg and
oil in the surest and quickest manner
have been invented-a few of them are
really valuable for some workers and
under some conditions, but, personally,
prefer this simple method, with only
q wooden spoon and saucepan.
The wooden spoon is light, smooth,
easy to hold, noiseless as it comes in
contact with the pan, and scrapes the
mixture from the pan far better than
can be done with an egg heater. The
latter is often very difficult to turn
when the dressing becomes stiff.
The saucepan, having a handle, is ca
sier to hold than a bowl; the hand is
not cramped or chilled as it is in clasp
ing a bowl. If a whirling beater is
used, either a bowl or a part of the
beaten must be stationary. Ice is not
necessary, except in a very hot room,
but it certainly expedites matters, but
when the mixing is done with the pan
in ice water, it is not necessary to chill
the oil, egg, bowl and spoon before
hand. The seasoning I prefer to add
to the egg in the beginning, and if more
is needed, it may be mixed with the
salad material.
An egg which will make good may
onnaise will usually thicken as soon as
blended with the seasoning, but a thin
egg or one which persistently runs all
over the pan the moment you stop
beating, will require a long time for
the oil to become incorporated with it,
and is quite likely to separate.
Keep the bottle of oil on a plate to
catch the dripping oil, and if you work
alone and have no John or Katy to
hold the bottle and pan while you stir
the same result may be accomplished
| by turning in a tea-spoonful at once,
tipping the pan so the oil will run down
to one edge, and then carefully stir
ring in few drops of it at each stroke
Next time add two spoonfuls-and in
crease the amount of oil added in the
same proportion that the thickened
egg increases. If each portion of oil
is thoroughly blended by swift and tell
ing strokes of the spoon, there will be
no danger of separation. You will soon
learn to distinguish the first sign of
the curdled condition from the smooth
texture of the perfect union, and often
a few quick strokes will bring the re-
fractory materials into harmony again.
But if your efforts are unaVailing and
an oily faky mass is all you have for
your pains, take fresh saucepan, an
other egg, and after beating it slightly,
add the curded mass, a teaspoon at a
time, instead Of the plain Oil, and the
mixture will soon be all right again.
Sometimes a little of the acid will
unite the egg and oil if added quickly
The acid usually whitens the dressing,
and it may be added in small portions
whenever the mixture is too thick to
stir easily.
[ prefer to have the dressing quite
thick so it stands alone for it is always
thinned by moisture of the salad mix
ture. When whipped cream or white
of egg are used they should be stirred
in just before serving.
1t is easier to make a Quart at once
than to make pint twice and if made
with care it will keep two or three
weeks
The following is a convenient formula
for mildly-seasoned mayonnaise: One
teaspoon each of salt, mustard and
powdered sugar, one-eighth teaspoon
paprika, yolks of two eggs, one pint of
olive oil, two tablespoons each of lemon
juice and vinegar.
Cayenne and Nepaul pepper may be
used if a more pungent dressing be de-
sired.