Santa Fe new Mexican. [volume] (Santa Fe, N.M.) 1898-1951, 1899-09-23

in the lace is picked out with fine beads.
Brussels net has designs of flowers and
foliage wrought in fine beads Of differ
emit colors. Where there is a rose, for
instance, it is made of shades of pink
pearl beads. In some cases the leaves
and trailing vines are made Of green
spangles. The French call these pail
lettes and the English sequins. Some of
the lace bands Of beaded work have a
line of spangles along each side.
All Paris says that black velvet will
have a vogue this season beyond COM
pare. The princess shape for such robes
will be favored IN account Of the posi-
bilities in trimming. No trimming
looks so we'll as beaded p~assementerie
In long lines from top to bottom. I may
say with authority that the princess
gown will be the great style with many
slight variations.
The Longchamps coat is to be forced
upon us. Forced, I say, because I do
not believe that any one would willing
ly choose one. This coat is not unlike a
directoire redingote in some respects, is
made of everything from silk to plush,
through all the intermediary stufs. 1t
is not dressy, nor is it even graceful.
The box coats are also in the list Of
stylish fall wraps. These are loose
around the body and tight around the
bottom. In fact, they look like mems
fall ~overcoats and are usually of light
covert or cloth. They look rather horsy.
But SO do the three-quarter driving
coats. These will be affected by many
ladies who never drove or can hope to
drive. But with a pert little felt derby
and a coaching whip the fair wearers
make the beholders think they do. This
is an essentially English style, and the
French have adopted it, as they do the
English ''boule dogue," as they write
bulldog.
The Mcpherson is a sort Of heightened
golfng cape coat. The coat fits snugly
around the hips, but nowhere else, and
over it is a cape which can be detached
If desired. The cape is lined with plaid
silk Of the Mcpherson tartan.
Capes for visiting and the promenade
are made in infinite variety. A long
close cape, reaching nearly to the knees
and hanging from a yoke, is a favorite
model. Capuchin hoods are seen on
many, even the velvet ones.
The new fabrics, if n can call them
new, the same old standard weaves, are
produced in very rich and beautiful
colorings and combinations. Light tints
are the fashion beyond all things, black
excepted. There are some silk and wool
bayadere suitings where the silk stripes
are in tints so light as to appear faded.
They certainly produce very striking
effects when cut in the princess shape.
There are some changeable effects in
wool suitings. The French GRANTEES are
very handsome in tailor gowns, but
they are hardly firm enough for outside
garments. Corded velour where the
cord is one color and the underpart an
other or Of different shades is very rich.
Some have in addition little raised silk
dots Pretty suiting is Of light colored
close woven wool, like whipcord, with
satin stripes forming small checks. The
young French girls affect these checked
dresses. It gives them that air Of child
like and angelic innocence i~nseparable
from a French maiden.
The new hats are anything you like.
The gypsy and the 1880 poke are favor
ties. Strings are used as often as not.
Velvet is the choicest Of all materials
for hats and trimmings and will be all
the style for fine occasions. Felt is made
very soft and velvety, and both velvet
end felt are frequently bordered with
fur. The stiff quilts, curled into various
forms, will be favorites. and aigtets and
birds Of paradise sweeps will be very
much in fashion; some flowers also.
Malines will be used as strings to many
hats. Plaid ribbons with heavy cords
marking the design will also be used q
trimming for felts.
H%ENRIETTE ROUSSEAU
Paris