The times., 1899-10-08


frost from clear cold heaven, for woman
kind. by diat Of honest shopping industry.
is cloaked and r-ufied and furred in prep
aration for q fine show OF indifference 10
the keenest wind that ever blew. Those
who are not provided with long plaid capss
have given hearty welcome to the reding-
cote idea and are, at an instant's notice
from the thermometer. ready TO slip into
these heel and knee long wraps that are
more bravely colored than any We have
ever seen before.
For example, it will only require one
chilly snap now to bring out the rich Tyr
ian purple cloth box-shaped overcoats,
strapped at all seams and surmounted by
collars Of chinchilla; added to these viii
come tunic-shaped "overalls, as they are
called. OF sober goose grey beaver cloth,
showing Jehu capes lined in cheerful or
ange velvet, cufed, oolIared and seam
strapped with the same. and cheek by jowl
with them all are sure to be seen the short
coats OF modore cloth, piped in the seams
with locust green and further enriched by
beautiful green bronze buttons Slashes Of
strongly contrasting tones viii be given by
the new brown cloth short capes and coats,
each with a collar displaying a damson,
much OF the character Of a wrap now lies
in the sort OF neckpiece bestowed upon it.
Altogether. when skies and nature re-
solve themselves into uniform greynsss
of tone the women win throw their bright
array n0bly into the breach and make the
winter wildness blossom like a rose They
are going 10 do this not only with their
wraps, but by virtue also Of their hats and
muffs. More of the latter Will be worn
in velvet than in fur, that is, if the stock
laid in by the shopkeepers means any
thing. II is novelty that keeps the planet
OF fashion revolving profitably on its axis
and we are contemplating with glee NUTS
made Of divers rich toned veIvets. either
Puffed and beaded and corded all over the
cylindrical shaped hand warmer, or just
pUffed round the ends Of the orifces where
the hands enter and here set thickly with
velvet roses These are called marquise
mufIs. and are slung round the neck by
scarf Of chiffon that has silk fringed ends.
which are joined in large and fluffy bow
at the back Of the wearer's neck.
There is now not the least attempt made
by the most heartless woman to defy in
her hat decorations the ruling of Audubon
societies; in fact. should Audubon come
back TO life in any smart miliineT's parlor
just now he would believe himself wan
dering IL 2 hideous nightmare. Birds with
topknots OF jeweled tuile, birds with four
wings and three tails. fowls with parrot
heads, gull wings. and peacock tails and
warblers having one eye ruby red and an
other emerald green, not TO speak of tiny
creatures with crystal bills two inches
long, would certainly make the famous
naturalist stare.
What. however, seems entirely distorted
to the scientific mind is beautiful, and,
best Of all becoming in the sight OF dress
loving eyes, and the birds OF the strangest
species charmingly deck the autumn hat.
There is strong preference denoted for
tiny green parrots, and tuft OF velvet
flowers. out Of which. with dazzling jew
eled eyes, z tropical fowl looms showiiy,
is one OF the finest Inspirations OF the mil
liners art.
That which seems a vital part of every
hesddress just now is a pastel veil 'Tis
nothing more than a width OF web chiffon
tinted in the volatile pink, blue, and then
relieved by round velvet dots and satin
edge. These pastel wells are remarkably
favorable 10 any complexion. casting dim
religious and wholly becoming light over
the features that the chiffon caressingiy
protects.
To return to our first muttons, the
wraps, let il be known that the newest OF
the new short fur coats have silk sleeves,
and a very young person can recall the
winter whence this mode is borrowed A
tight silk sleeve, ending il a couple of fur
bands al the wrist is the modish model
and you are tempted BY the furrier who
sells you coat 10 almost any sacrifice in
order to raise the money for the purchase
OF an enhanced lace 1abot 10 hang in the
front OF the seal, chinchiila or sable jacket
you have bought. They make these iabots
OF the ripest cream cluny. or old Irish, OF
iE=itafion antique guipure. or any heavy
beautifully patterned neealework. and
treat Il with cut heads OF turquoise. steel
5et Jade. etc, and pinches and tail points
Of fur. II is a very lovely but very ex-
travaeaHt fashion, but 1t only goes to es-
tabiish. With thrifty women, the belief il
the charm of lace ruff worn with any fui
cape Or coat
IN modest sort Of a way beads ar
doing 4 good work this fail in ornament
ing purses and fans. dancing hose ant
shopping bags. The approved shopper
friend is made Of very beautifully dresses
doe or faWn skin. coloned bronze. brown
or goose grey. mounted on silver lip, Gu
about FIVE inches long by four bread, an
then pre-riiy worked in steel and gun
metal beads. A fringe OF beads hang
ordinarily about three sides CT the SINAI
wallet shaped affair, and it is worn by
chain hung round the neck or chateiail
wise from the bait Highly polished stee
and dark-skinned gun metal, in combina
tiOn. form, by the way. one OF the pret
tiest types Of neck chain used at present
and these two metals in bead form ar
strewn on the surface OF fine feathers [,
produce the most expensive card case
FOR winter service
BY the excessive length not the mesgr,
circumference. Of her waist line Is tn
fashionable womal distinguished from
those whose clothes are simply clothes e
them, and nothing more. The straight
busked corset, with heavy elastic hose sup
porte1s extending from the front OF thi
stay &c the knee, is the secret OF the Ions
waist when either stout or slender woman
shows one. and l. is easier for a camel {,
accomplish the famous gymaastic tricl
mentioned IN scripture than il is for
woman TO wear one Of the gowns Of thu
period without a corset showing the tw,
all important features above mentioned.
Even when swathed in one Of the hee
reaching redingotes OF the mode, a wo
man betrays to sharp feminine eyes wheth
er her stay be OF the proper shape or no
White or black sateen is what the crdinar-
daughter OF Eve wears in the way Of cor
set material, though from Paris are sen
over wonderful temptations OF extrava
gance IN the way OF antique velvet stay
IN black and white. OF course this lie
as close and fits as smoothly as a heav,
satin and il viii actually wear a coupI
OF years, or as long as the best whalebon
resists the pressure and stortion Of loni
usage.
sermon on "surprIses,