The San Francisco call., 1899-07-02

q HAVE been studying the summer
girl on the scene of action. / should
like to tell you all about her, but the
summer girl has ten times as many
u phases as a June rose has petals.
1t is of the summer girl in frills and laces
that I am going to hold forth. She Is the
same maiden who does the athletic act;
but of that anon
The summer girl of '99 has slim and
lissome shape sheathed as frankly as q
mermaid in her scales. and, ike mer-
maid, spreading fanlike to a graceful
train. Where are the hips of yesteryear?
Gone! Gone with the hOrsecar. gone with
the hoopskrts. gone as utterly entreIy
and absolutely And, dear heaven! gone
so suddenly.
"What am I to do?" asks the solid one
who for two seasons has been rejoicing
in hers
Train, Bant! Take to the vapor bath
the cold plunge, the masseur the "tiih-
the wheel. the surf the saddle, the
weights. even the treadmill, but make
yourself over at once. Forget that you
were fashionable, for you are fashionable
no longer. What nature intended you 70
be is not of the slightest consequence
All natural things are not beautiful, much
less fashionable.
All of which is of course. rather fool
ish. But really, my dears. if you would
be the correct SUMMER girl of '99 you must
be slender-nay, almost thin. Mile. 80
has her charnl-a sort Of delicate poster
charm of long, fire lines ana nicely au-
justed angles. She gathers up her trail
ing skirts about her narrow hips with
careless crook of her elbow. She tips her
hat well down over her brow-a bolero
probably or a Becfeater or as like as not
a sailo-fait:ful little tile. which age can
not wither nor custom stale. She holds
herself with the ease of well-tralned
muscles and shows a slim foot shod in
russet or in patent leather under her cool
foulard or cooler linen.
The summer girl of 80 comes out to
meet the morning in tailored linens or
other crisp smart stuffs that are the
tailors summer pride. The skirt hts her
like a French glove and with it she wears
a smashing little Eton cut by a master
hand.
She has one of these for every morning
in the week.
But it was of the daintier frock that I
was to tell you. For my lady carries
quantities of these besides her athletic
togs. The summer girl of not so many
yester seasons scorned parasolS and shade
hats and men and other indispensable de-
tails of the beach She fried herself all
colors OUT under the summer sun, and
after her morning dip came to breakfast
with dark Drowned locks. She pretended
not to care farthing's flip for fashion
She had a good time and looked as ugly
as she liked at it.
Now Mile '99 does the frou-frou as well
as the athletic act. She plays both roles
with equal success. The summer girl of
'99 must be able to do the lightning
change.
The most novel dinner gown at the most
fashionable resort this year belongs to
Young matron noted for her beautiful cos
tunes. 1t is a painted gauze shading from
lavender to c6rnfiower and made with a
tight polonaiSe of black guipure lace.
There are several white gowns that are
attracting much attention. One, with
dainty blue pattern is cut in princesse
shape and has vest of cream satin COW
cred with guipure to match and hnlShed
with revers of guipure and satin. A SWISS
belt in blue taffeta finishes the waist ana
the skirt has d deep founce of large
graduated plaits.
A very odd foulard is strewn with auto
mobile red flowers, the skirt trimmed
with insertions of cream lace, the bodice
slightly pouched and applique with black
lace bows.
long pOlonaise covered with insertions OF
black Chantilly lace. the rows OF lace be-
ing edged with black velvet ribbon.
4 garden party dress is of pale green
nuns yelling, the OVerskirt long ana
nointed in front shorter at the sides and
back and edged with two narrow rlbpon
bands. one of green frilled with white
lace. the other of pinkish purple frilled
with black lace Embroidered ecru mus
lin forms the deep fiounce of the under
skirt and also the tucked yoke ana
sleeves. -. II
A striking costume is of white and old
rose lawn trimmed with black lace Ihe