Evening star., 1899-04-15

the Yentno, a large tributary flowing in
from the west. AT the point of conjunctio
the Alaskan Commercial Company has es-
tabliShed a store.
Here We took leave of Mr.. Spur and his
party.
We continued up the Sushitna and ar
rived on July "a at a point some eighty
two miles from its mouth, where it re-
ceives two large tributaries, the Talkeetna
and the Chulitna- which flow in from the
east and the west, respectively. Here a
latitude station was established, and We
found it to be in 62 degrees - minutes
north. The channel from hers up is more
confined and the river rarely exceeds a
half of a mile in width. The fall, however
is greater and the current is swifter but
the banks ara better than in the lower
course, and We made more progress daily
Approaching Mt. Mckinley.
On the 5th of July We found ourselves
at the mouth of Indian creek and at the
head of navigation of the Sushitna. Here,
accordingly, we determined to cache our
boats and surplus provisions, and to take
the so-called overland trail for the Tanana
First, however we determined to pitch
camp long enough to make final observa-
tions on Mt. Mckinley, and the great range
which it dominates.
We had sighted the great mountain from
near the mouth of the Sushitna, and as we
advanced up its course made frequent OBJ
servations with the transit, reading both
horizontal and vertical angles. From these
readings and our final observations we de-
termined the height of the mountain to be
~, 46i feet, or the highest peak on the
North American continent.
Our last observations on the great peak
were made from the top Of a small range,
some 1900 feet in height. This range lies
near the mouth of Indian creek between
the Sushitna and the Chulitna rivers. The
observation station was about five miles
from the mouth of the Indian creek and
almost directly east of Mt. Mckinley. For
some little time We were unable to obtain
view of the mountains on account of the
clouds. We could tell, however, that the
top OF the ridge commanded MAGNIFICENT
view OF the whole range, and when the
winds had finally dispelled the clouds we
saw the whole eastern side of the great
range for distance of perhaps 200 miles.
Magnificence of the View.
The panorama was one which 1 believe
is unsurpassed for grandeur and magnifi-
cence in the world. AS the air became
clearer We could see the range stretching
off perhaps hundred and fifty miles to
the southwest, its contour broken here and
there by Jagged peaks, which shot thou
sands of feet above the level of the ridge
Some sixty miles away a great flat-topped
peak rose eighteen Thousand feet above
sea level To the right of it was smaller
conical-shaped peak, perhaps fifteen thou
sand feet in height, while still farther to
the right. and about forty-five miles from
our point of observation, lowered Mt. Nc
Kinley, whose peak, clad with eternal
SHOWS, looked down upon the surrounding
waste and solitude from a height of twenty
thousand five hundred feet.
Below us, and about ten miles away, the
Chulitna river ran along the eastern side
OF the great range. fed mostly from the gla-
ciers formed on its peaks. Opposite where
we stood it's bed is about five hundred feet
above the level Of the sea- At a glance we
saw the whole Of the eastern slope of the
great mountain. This side of the mountain
Is scanned with hundreds and thousands of
sharp gullies, and is cut by ravines and
canyons ofttimes to a depth of thousands
OF feet. 1t serves also as a base for in
Vulnerable peaks, some of which rise to
height OF from seven to ten thousand feet.
Running off to the right of the great peak
and perhaps twenty-five miles in length, is
a glacier. fed by the ice and snow accumu-
lations Of centuries.
The entire party agreed that as far as
hi man beings are concerned the mountain
is absolutely inaccessible from the eastern
side.
Rugged and Harsh.
The whole Mckinley range gives an i'm
preston of the greatest ruggedness. and its
outlines would be harsh in the extreme We're
they not tempered by the soft white of
the snow which caps all high peaks. More
over, below the snow line the slaty rock is
lend to all the mountains of Alaska a beau
tful pale green color effect peculiarly their
own.
Observations on the Mckinley range, and
In particular on the great peak, consumed
only a short time. We made a number of
camera exposures, but these proved to be
complete failures, presumably on account
of the intense whiteness of the range. To
guard against such contingency / made
a number of rough sketches, both of the
general landscape and of the great peak
This done we took last look at the great
range and began preparations for the long
portage across the divide to the Tanana
We made start early on the morning
of the 18th of July. carrying with us only
absolutely necessary sustenance and equip
age. The journey proved trying in the ex-
treme. We travelled by slow and toilsome
stages for six weeks, and on no day did
We make progress far in excess of that
possible to an unencumbered man walking
on level ground in an hours time.
Country Full of Game.
The country was Wild and beautiful. Our
journey carried US mostly above timber
line and among mountains In some places
as rugged as those OF the Mckinley range
Wild flowers grew In abundance every