The record-union., 1899-08-27

| remarkably well with simple decora-
| tions
Very smart and dainty effects will be
produced in finishing the tops Of dress
sleeves, not few of which will show
the upper portion cut away in a down.
ward curve or a decided upward point,
leaving a space to be covered with vel
| vet, satin faille, tucked taffeta or
other fabric matching the yoke or
guimpe. Many of the sleeves on dressy
! models have the forearms made of one
material and the upper parts Of the
sleeves of another Evening toilets of
/ lace net, grenadine, mousseline de sole,
ETC., have either very ornate and pretty
| elbow sleeves. or else they are shirred
and tucked or finished with folds, in
sertion bands, or graceful designs in
lace applique. In every case, however,
the sleeve remains small one, dainty
in effect and one with which most wo-
men are now greatly pleased.
Many of the stylish unbleached lin
ems of the summer are woven in tiny
basket squares, much like hop sacking;
and these and the twills, jeans and
drilling of fine quality are considered
worthy of silk vests and trimmings.
The Lyons woven Hollands appear
among stylish tailor costumes made
with white braid trimmings, and the
pale pink, blue or canary yellow vest
is usually cut double breasted. The soft
finished crash gowns are not only in
delicate ecru shades, but in tan color,
China blue, golden tan and modore.
The weightier Irish linens SO long pop
171a Will, woman Of bioI ran
are decorated with bands of heavy gui-
pure Insertions revers and sailor col
lars of handsome all over embroidery
banded with insertion and plated shirt
waists of pale mauve, pink or blue and
lustrous India linen with one embroid-
cred plait down the center of the front.
The corn flower and iris blues have
been greatly. favored by fashion this
season, but they are as trying to the
average complexion as sea green or sill
yer gray, though attempts have been
made to soften their admitted asperity.
by combining them with delicate cream
tints, fawn biscuit color, etc. But
most modistes and milliners say that it
is useless to try to overcome the pro-
nounced antagonism of these shades,
and the woman who insists upon adopt
ing them must content herself with be-
ing fashionable at the expense of her
appearance. Nearly all intense colors
try the complexion and even in extreme
youth with good health. the complex
ion will rarely stand the test when
striking colors are placed near the face.
One Of the daintiest selections which
can be made for pure white gown for
evening wear is water lily crepe de
Chine over white taffeta with guimpe
and elbow sleeves of white lace. For a
slender figure a twice around sash of
soft white silk or crepe de Chine, deeply
fringed at the edges. is a still prevail
ing addition. This same model, repeat
ed in black crepe de Chine, forms a
notably graceful and elegant gown.
Cream white. scarlet, old rose, plum
red and golden-brown satin ribbons
from three and one-half to five inches
in width, arranged in high spreading
choux or fan-plaitings are seen upon
some new midsummer round hats,
showing no other additional trimmings
of flowers, foliage. etc. Another fancy
is a complete wreath of short, very full
ostrich tips, set around the crowns of
shepherdess hats of chip of Milan
braid. In the center is an airy tower
of lisse surrounded by a Prince OF
Wales cluster of fluffy sable plumes.
Black zephyr straw picture hats are
lavishly trimmed with orange yellow
tulle, and very expensive pearl, gold
and onyx pins are thrust among the
standing and falling black feathers set
at the left side
Cafe noir is the darkest shade OF
brown that will be worn next season,
"Ujiji," or mud color, is one of the
most novel Of the brown dyes Chene
is deep oak tint that will be used in
combination with reseda or golden
brown velvet or bengaline. Golden rod.
maize, mandarin and narcissus are
handsome yellow shades that will be
much used in evening dress and mill
inery; but dawn" the rosy golden hue.
remains the most popular of these
evening tints, as it has a softening and
beautifying effect upon the complexion
under artificial light. The lovely rose
and reseda shades have lost none OF
their popularity; on the contrary they
have appeared to gain in favor.
The season before us promises to be
one of special brilliancy befitting the
sp1endors of natures festival time. All
the rich dahlia, wine and plum shades.
oaken bronzes, russet and beech-leaf
gold, the green of the maple and
bracl1en, the vivid scarlet of the glad
ioli, geranium and lobelia will all APP
pear among the autumn colors, and
among dress fabrics will be brought
: out novel dyes in monochrome effects.
! or in new melanges of striking and
notably artistic colors.
Among the smart tailor costumes for
autumn Journeys will be those copying
French avant courier models, formed OF
! fawn or reseda camel s-hair, roughly
: flecked with silver-white, brown or
red. These have fitted jackets, open
ing over bengaline vests, the color OF
; the rough portions of the fabric, or are
made with double breasted Eton jack