Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1899-12-09

haCk sklft IN FAVOR OF one WIN
plaits, which now seems imminent
Some weeks ago those in the know
were all talking Of Paquin's new model
which permits graceful box plat
through the center OF the back breadth.
Since that time the skirt in the orig.
lnal and with many variations is more
frequently seen than Is the habit back.
The tight back skirt was becoming
10 few figures. Slender women wore II
well. but women discriminate so little
when II Is a question Of style that the
craze extended 10 all Of them regard
less Of physical proportions. The stout
woman In the habit back skirt increas-
ed In numbers and ugllness and was the
only object lesson needed 10 reform the
cut. even though Paqun. who always
anticipates the future. had not present.
ed possibilities IN the plated skirt The
skirts differ little one from the other
both are minus the gaping placket and
fasten on the left side, For those who
desire to continue wearing the tight e.
fects the plat may be stitched down
for eight or ten inches, thereby preserv-
ing the sheathlike appearance, while
the figure OF the woman inclined 10 en-
bonpont is vastly improved by per-
hitting the plat 10 flow freely. The
new cut in nowise interferes with dec
oratlye schemes, and straps and bands
are still a conspicuous part Of their
construction.
Stitohlngs In patterns or wavy lines
mark the progress Of the machine work
on the latest models exhibited. Tucks
describing points are a novelty trim
ming used on cloth or light fabrics with
equally charming effect. The fad for
machine stitching concerns velvet and
silk as well as cloth. Neckbands made
OF velvet stitched around Is or 20 times,
occasionally in a crisscross pattern re-
sembling designs on old fashioned bed
quilts. are the latest thing.
Next In Importance TO the coat suit
is the cloth gown for more dressy wear.
In fact, II may be said TO be Of para
mount Importance. so firm a hold has
cloth this season upon the affection Of
the multitudes. Peau de CANT is the
newest material, and, as It's name sug-
gests II Is a finely woven soft cloth not
unlike suede. II combines beautifully
with the lace and chiffon addenda and
Is used largely In the make up Of elab-
crate dinner dresses. A beautiful cloth
costume for theater wear Is Of pearl
gray peau de CANT. The skirt is finish
ed with deep flounce, which Is trim
med along the top with a wide band Of
lace cut into points and outlined with
narrow velvet and ribbon. The same
trimming Is repeated across the front
Of the bodice and at the top Of the
sleeves. Otherwise the bodice Is quite
plain, and should fit to perfection. In
this model is developed the plated skirt
closely stitched, preserving the snug
contour.
Another model In castor Of French
cashmere, a less expensive but most
satisfactory material for obtaining
graceful lines OF perpetuating the
cllngng tendencies, has skirt cut
without seam at the back. 1t fastens
on the left side OF the front. where It
Is trimmed with narrow velvet ribbon.
just at the base OF this trimming the
material Is cut away to reveal a panel
OF lace. The bodice Is trimmed to
match the skirt, aud II has a yoke OF
lace. The collar is also of lace, edged
with velvet ribbon.
One OF the accompanying Illustrations
furnishes pretty idea for a princess
costume which has fewer adherents. II
Is made Of plain violet cloth and is des-
ignated as a princess tunic. The fronts
are cut double breasted and fasten
down the left side The double breast
ed front Is slightly draped top and bot
tom under two rosettes ornamented
with buckles. The princess costume Is
cut up on one side TO reveal an under
skirt Of the same material, and II is
edged with fringe
An excellent example OF the extrav-
agGnco Of decoration Is shown in a blue
cloth walking suit A band Of scallops
mounted on a panel OF antique velvet
outlines the front breadth and circles
the bottom Of the skirt half way
around The jaunty Jacket is similarly
decorated and supplied with chlnchnla
collar and revers with II is carried a
muh, which may be either OF chlnchilla
or OF closely shirred gray chiffon.
Chiffon nuns were first seen at the
horse show and are a new and delight
ful substitute for the heavy fur nun
which Is FIVE times as expensive. Usu-
ally bit Of fur like that used on the
coat Is somewhere introduced on the
nun, but this Is not at all necessary TO
harmony, as the ghlrring is done In
tucks, which gives a fuzzy look and Is
further beautifed II it Is shaded. with
sable trimming, a confectlon Of chlf-
fon In nun form made Of white brown
and black Is the caprice. one color Is
laid upon the other giving a brownish
cast. and II is finished on with plating
In which several tails are fastened.
Tailor costumes, II Of good material
and trimmed with braid or fur. may be
worn for visiting. though cashmere,
satin cloth and wooden pique are con-
sidered more dressy, as also is a long
cloak or coat Of fur. or Of velvet trim
med with fur Young girls, however
may always wear a tailor costume
Fashionable cloths are not confined 10
the plain varieties. one OF the prettlest
OF the seasonable novelties is cashmere.
spotted with black velvet affher ,vo,,e,