The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-03-05
AND HER TAILOR.
RAGE FOR BARGAINS ONE CAUsR OF
TROUBLE BETWEEN THEM

/ shN WIN wv ~ ~ NuNhp III hNDeNN
Fifth Avenue Fit and observation-disclosures
Have Troubles with Men rs Well ms wo-
men-Mnnifestations Of Masculine Vanity
The dispute between woman and her tailor
has recently reached an acute stage. SO many
Judges have been called upon to 'rondcs Dc.
clsions regarding tailor-made gowns that the
law schools may have to give instruction in
cutting and fitting in connection with the
regular course. Tho tailors say that women
are unreasonable. and tho women say that tai
lors are untrustworthy. A SUN reporter, who
tried to determine what tho trouble was. found
one thing that was quito clear. The tallors
| prefer men customers.
much q matter OF temper as OF shane. Men are
easier to Mt than women. A hairs breadth
of, In q curve, doesn't spoil the effect Of an
SpcS in a taiioromade'T gown Now, III toll You
why women have AL these rows in the, law
go to cheap %tailors. Fastldious men ,wlL,not.
Aman doesn't have to spend anywhere near so
he makes any pretensions to, sweetness he goes
70 o good tailor for what clothes he does need.
readyemade suit, and knows exactly how L Is
going TO look before he buys It. The men who
R %Se RMioSld dhs ffnis sEp a sSblISFS a 0T iitt EPsNiR Sait. MA RSa
don't think OF requiring the sort OF perfection
women. even whom they arc comparatively
swell. are always, hunting for cheap tailors.
Prices like ours for gowns seem exorbltant
but the cheap tailor cant make n successful
gown, and the moment he finds out how to do
II he ceases to be cheap.
ing gets into trouble and wants her money back
or wants q new gown IN place OF the spoiled
il we do make a biHnder. The little tailor can't.
and Think the women are usually too hard on
taking chances when they &c. to him. They
shouldn't expect the same perfection from him
firm. They should be positive in their plans
and directions, should Insist upon frequent fit.
tfinEs' s nStSihE w" to hi his aR|s T9sftfiss carefully # tSny a Srs
willing and 46le to do this. they, may get very
iHaiIlFitg y Nna turn II 'e eSyr VIM to o ss,it to ine the 5esp tsi1sr.
they must pay for the luxury. That's all there
the man 10 Turn out Tor her . $50 gown II
he could do THAT. why would he be making
Women ARE unreasonable about that sort Of
thing; but. 50 far "a our patrons go. the women
to make a woman's gown. Perfection in Il 10
Of a higher kind than pericctlon in q mans
Ter in demanding her standard Of perfection
than the man is in demanding his. The trouble
turn our hair gray. Once in a while, a man
comes along who, says, Make me a suit of Of
s about ad deta 5hs'' 50 toe Ion end as q The ie; cI aa dSq are c s@Pe
Portable. But the average man is vain, awfully
vain. Why. If men had as much latitude OF
choice as women. and n man had to choose as
many clothes ms n woman does he'd die OF
brain fever or prostration., ;Iveknown
9ut and NJ SG set Ave s, ,%eoek tnhs 70 Tor mi him e be sSas
coats, You see that's about the only esrment
loose and. even in the matter of waistcoats. a
conventional man doesn't dare indulge his
spicuous and it's u funny thing to see a man
y msFn 10 f2 n a ss red h 6FTiG % ho wH nn 4 Io ana try gyn 70
finally. order a Black w%Sistcoat and go away
sorrowful. Sometimes he will brace up and
2TafF the Ths s,d i tyeI ilh the mem snd not Tn to ca nT into v f6s
goods. and in about an hour the telephone
He will have a black waistcoat- plain black,
You've no Idea what a comfort these red golf
coats and hunting pinks are TO American men.
all his life. Neckties have really been his only
form OF expression until now, 80
your hands by men 2" asked the reporter.
We'll. I guess yes! !" SAID the tailor. airily:;
number OF workmen are employed, and some-
times We turn out a garment that isn't right;
horribly exacting. One OF my best customers
CONES Goiassd in Pa and =. orders tha sSg S1i,: and ally il when Emit il Il I,
that doesn't please him he presents it to me.
He will not let me try to remedy the fault; be.
r rieht at ne f nss e E Witty nsv snaI Io 10 kh Tie sRtnso 5sef m Sus
who is a swell in the 400 gives me no end Of
trouble; ot He . d is ,re nneIs % wI1E THrtiSSg ttinss and Sus
nine chances to one when he puts on the gar
ment he thinks something about it isn't right.
Just throws the suit to me, and says: That's
your suit. Make, me another of this piece OF
OF cloth because he is afraid / would fix up the
other suit. ,I,'ve often made four suits for him
osTF2bF e r ! e9pfd f IUok eim i% 9ns ne %2u'aa T Ye@ CAM
make much money out OF that sort OF trade
yes. The man buys a great deal in the
course OF the year; and he pays his bills; Then
his clothes, bring me any amount OF custom;
or course. he IL an exception; but we have all
sorts of lesser cranks. and they make as much
fuss over a little imperiection as any woman
could. American men are a great deal fussier
about their tailoring. than Englishnen are.
easier. but prices weren't so good as they are
here. Tho Englishman wears his clothes very
over there, and II an Englishman's clothes At
comfortably he's satisfied; bnt an American
and lis hard to combine the two.
The hardest. problem we run up against Is
or get it. He wants 70 look the way he did FIVE
years earlier; and; u hoeeod,55es doesn't w I9ok st. that IT, THy:
waist measure and change our cut. to keep up
with his change of contour and then he comes
last suit was all wrong and makes him a fright,
and that we've lost our knack Of fitting him
and he'll have to go elsewherei He comes back
four tailors before he settles down to the con.
v~iction that he has lost his waist line for good
and no tailor can give him one.
-" You'd be surprised 10 know how much pad
ding. we do In our mems tailoring. Figures
i'li y Nv ~ iuN III NV y w IN ~
women's. but we touch nature up in n great
many ways, especially in the case OF frock
coats. There aren't many figures that can
carry n frOck coat well. nor Il dress coat either.
We make clothes for one OF the popular opera
singers. and / tell you he carries stage methods
into his dress clothes for evening concerts end
his frock coat for afternoon concerts and the
promenade. He's n snare aid n delusion. but
he's very imposing when we get all through
with him.
Pm glad American mon don't wear corsets.
I've Just three men customers who do wear
them. Ones a German and the other two are
French. They're n nuisance. II upsets all
ones rules ana theories. ono can't cut their
clothes by ,women's models, and mems pat:
system for them. and when ! get through with
them ] could ST down and weep over those
clothes. The idea Of n man talking about re
curve Of his hips and. % sloping line under
his arm! I'd go out 81 business If all the men
could see the ulster ! made for one q the
frenchmen. when he wears ! you cant tell.
woman. ! worked over ih3t thing Tor weeks.
What do Won do with all the clOthns TINT ara