Evening star., 1899-03-18
LENTEN SEASON STYLES
Give Hint Of What Coming Fashions Are
to Be.
Like Crepe de Chine Are
Very OBSERVATION-DISCLOSURES IL Much
Worn Dinner Gowns.
From Harper's Bazar.

WUTlQ at large tuGt the season VI
| Lent fashionable people adopted a different
style of dress from the one they wore at
other seasons of the year. This absurd fall
lacy has its origin undoubtedly in the fact
that during the early spring and late WIN
ter women do find it necessary to replen-
ish their wardrobe by some new gowns
that are neither so heavy as the winter
ones they have been wearing nor so light
as the spring ones. They are emphatically
| the demi-saison gowns Of which French
women are SO fond. They are not chosen
on any rigid lines as to material, nor are
they fashioned in any one set style. They
are chosen more with a view as to what is
becoming and graceful, as well as useful.
Among these gowns are many different
styles. There are tie walking gowns, the re-
ception gowns, and particularly noticeable,
the house and dinner gowns. These latter
are not SO eiaborately fashioned as the
dinner gowns worn during the winter sea-
| son, for the dinner gowns appropriate then
are really ball gowns.
Street Gowns.
The street gowns made for Lenten wear
are of a lighter weight, as has been said,
and show what the coming styles are to be.
The skirts are not so exaggerated as they
were; they fit closely over the hips and have
a flare around the foot, but the fit is not
| SO exaggerated, nor is the flare so exagger-
ated1y farfng. The lines, in fact, are better;
they are all long. and give as much as pos
slble the slender look that seems to be the
thing most desired in every gown at pres
ent. Among these gowns are some made
| OF the different shades of gray. This color
has kept its hold upon popular fancy for a
very long time; it is now two years since
1t first appeared. Gray has always been
worn, but gray gowns have never been
worn so much as they are now For street
n of lienf ntSr,+ ot1
and cheviots, made on strictly tailor prin-
clples. The only trimming on the skirts of
these gray gowns is a band of the material
put down the front in straight lines or In
| four OF five bands that are close togeth her
| at the belt and then widen gradually to-
ward the foot of the skirt. The jacket is
tuaue luz ' WlIhout any trimming; the revers are
! gown, and are faced with uncut velvet. silk
| or satin stitched in countless little rows
IN hnere are sun some revers to be seen of
| me Whlte Satln, with the narrow lines of
| plack velvet ribbon, or the black and white
| striped velvet satin.
Fashionable Materials.
All materials like crepe de chine are very
| iashfonabie There some exquisite
| cloths IN crepe de chine that do not look
IKE the silk crepe de chine, and are lit
| tie heavier. These are being made I'D into
| most fascinating Lenten gowns-that is
| they are being made up during the Lenten
| season. This fabric comes in all the DIFF
ferent shades. the handsomest being those
IN the lighter shades. There are some
! shades in gray and in tan that are most
| exquisite, and when made in the princesse
gown nothing can be more graceful for the
| material falls in soft artistic folds One
gown, of very pale shade of tan, is made
| in princesse style in the back. There is no
| trimming on the back of the skirt at ALL
but there is underskirt of silk, on which
Is fiounee of the material which does not
snow. The front faStens at one side the
| fastening being hidden under band of
| embroidery on the velvet-a dark brown
/ velvet, with the embroidery in lighter
| shades of tan. The waist also fastens over
| at the left side, the line of the fastening
meeting the line of fastening on the skirt
| Ihis, too, Is hidden by band of the en-
broidery. In front there is a round yoke of
plain white satin, tucked in any number
of tiny tucks There is high f1aring stock
| collar of white satin, and at the back a
very narrow yoke. Around the yoke at the
PACK and In front, crossing over with the
| fastening of the waist and finishing at the
belt. for there Is belt in front, is a ruff
| fe of bias brown velvet on which is
! broidered the same design as that on the
skirt. The sleeves are eXaggeratedly small,
| fit absolutely tight. are long, and have deep
| turned-over cuffs Of the velvet cut In points.
| For quite young matron very charming
| gown made of this crepe de chine is in
| robin's-egg blue, color that has not been
| fashionable until lately, and has not yet
| met with absolute approval. When 1t is
becoming, it is intensely SO. The model of
| this gown Is much the same as the one just
| described, only the embroidery Is In white
| and silver. The gown Is only suitable for
] home wear until warm weather really sets
| In, when 1t can be worn to receptions.
| Purple In Style.
The different shades of purple are also
| much used at present, not only because
| purple is a Lenten color but because purple
happens to be fashionable. The shades now
i y1o} tLnt
been worn during the autumn and winter.
There is less pink and more heliotrope in
| tfem. The geranium-purple. for instance, is
| not so fashionable as 1t was. Some of the
| new lightweight cloths in the purple that
are being made up are most attractive
| There is one style, made with the skirt of
last autumn fastened in the back with the
| little buttons This style, while very smart
| Is not to be rashly attempted. The same
| pattern of skirt can be used, but for most
women 1t Is better to have it finished on
the band with the fastening not showing
| than 1t is to have multitude of small but
tons or six or seven ieweied pins to hold
| the fullness in place. The skirt is long, but
| very graceful the length being cleverly ar
| ranged, so that it is possible to hold up the
| skirt with one hand. OF course there must
be q silk underskirt, very much rufled. as
| we'll as a silk petticoat, to make such
| skirt hang well. The jackets for these
| gowns are made short more like basque
waist, are tight-titting, double-breasted.
| lighter or darker purple, as the case may
| be. The revers fasten quite close together,
| SO that there is only little opening at the
| throat showing a white lace tie with short
ends. The collar Is high and f1aring at the
back, and Is made SO that it can be turned
over. These jackets are lined with white
satin or with very light purple satin, and
are supposed to be worn over the liberty
satin or silk waists. They require hats to
match. A black hat with such q costume.
| for instance, would spoil the whole effect
Dinner Gowns.
The dinner gowns made up for Lenten
dinners are not quite SO low in the neck as
were the dinner and ball gowns earlier
in the season, and many of them have long
tight-ftting lace sleeves A very charming
dinner gown Of pale yellow mousseIine de
sole is made with entre-deux of Valencien-
mes lace and bands of the tucked mousse
line de SOLE This is put over a flame-col-
ored silk petticoat which shows through
the Valenciennes lace, giving odd touches of
color. The skirt is very long, and Is fin
ished around the foot with numberless puff
fings and ruffies of the mousseline de sole
edged with dhe ValenxieDnas laca