The times., 1899-10-15
new SKIRTS ARE SHOCKED
From Hip TO Foot They Hang Softly
Abouf the Figure.
Eeiskfn Petticoats VIII Continue in
Favor Until Next SPrinE-Bnby
Benrsi1inN of Fluffy White VIII Vie
I'm Popularity with the Fur of the
silver Fcx-Capuchins of Satin.

elusive, always up-to-date women are al
way into the workrooms of the leading
modistes. gowns with gathered skirts villa
spread their fulIness before you The gath
eT1ng is done only when a soft goods is to
be manipulated, and the fuIlness is espe-
cially apparent in the front widths. All the
ball toilets Of soft silk and light muslin.
the dinner and reception costumes of crepe
de chine and liberty satin, and many OF
the crepons. cashmeres and henrietta
cloths. not 10 speak Of the lightweight sat
in and ladies' cloths, are undergoing SINH
lar treatment. The fUIlness usually lies in
a series OF shirring or & sheath of smock-
ing that extends from the actual waist fine
down on the hips and from the hips 10 foot
the goods hangs softly, loosely and amply
about the figure.
UntIl the spring of 1900 dawns, however
we are all quite safe in wearing our eel
skin petticoats just as they are for not
for full six months viii the gathered skirt
enter into its power and dominion as
fashion, and so far, even in circles of So
ciety. where the last whisper OF the mode
in Paris is faithfully echoed on our shores,
The heavier walking suits are being cut on
the pattern popular for at least ten months
But then. forewarned is forearmed. and
those on the lockout win not fail to hail
the gathered skirt in course OF time and
know how TO cut their cloth in economical
accordance. II some enterprising woman
proposes 10 follow at once Inat small pro-
cession OF her sex who are the pioneers in
every mode, let her be sure 10 cut her
gathered skirt long in front and well train
ed behind. and make sure 10 hang il free
upon perfectly plain silk foundation pet
tlcoat, for il does not follow that by get
ting into fulied dresses we are necessarily
going TO be whit more sanitary and COM
Portable than IN the snake-Iike peTticoats
OF the immediate past and the living pres
ent
The study OF furs continues 10 be a mat
ter Of very vital moment TO the gentle enc
my of the seal, fox and marten, and IL is
now quite evident that ermine viii figure
only in the humble capacity Of lining for
the more honored pelts. Great repOicing
among the fur-wearing contingent is fe-t
over the short boas and interesting collars
made from the skin Of the cub arctic bear.
for this is the only truly Satisfactory deep
pile white fur We have. a white baby
bruil produces q silken, soft. cream white
Pelt that is pleasant and tender 10 the
touch and is not so harshly bleached as to
pale the face il frames.
The fur that leads, however, is the fox
coat. be il the gorgeous and priceless sill
rer-tipped Reynard of northern woods, the
cleaning black Siberian fox, or the baby
coated Elyboots Of cur own woods. An in
fant fox OF American raising can have his
coat so treated, after he has yielded il up
IN the noble cause OF fashion, that the
original iron-grey Of lis surface turns 10
q soft smoked pearl tone, or il viii take
on the mild brown Of ground cocoa, and
-.
goods women are wearing this season
Il is highly proper, now that cold wealth
er gayeties have begun and the theatre
hat is regarded as q relic Of barbarism,
for hoods 10 assume. on as many occasions
Ty1a-fs1seY The hats zsrnild position. The
hood on an opera cloak is no longer a
pretty make believe. though as a matter
OF fact few hoods are attached 10 the
wraps OF current wear.
MilIiners turn out most beguiiing even
ing capnehins of liberty crepe and satin
il what they describe as spring tones. en-
rich them with lace frillings and inser-
lions and from the ribbon that gathers
their fullness about the throat flows forth
on the shoulders a small fluffy cape of
many rufies. II is h0pelessiy vain wom-
an who cannot make q pretty picture Of
herself in one Of these fowerlike frames.
At the furriers. are skating and driy-
ing hoods Of equal attTsctiyeness, cut
melon-shzpe, or somewhat on the mode
OF q very, very modified Highland SOL
dier's busby, in that its extra tail and
cone-shsped or pointed crown drops
over TO the side with the weight Of a
tuft Of fur tails that fail coqnettishly
like a cluster Of ringlets against the
weareT's cheek. A small jeweIed buckle
or hook and eye Of gold set with bril-
jiants, makes the fur hood fast under
the chin. and q ripple OF fur falls out
upon the shoulders Rucked chiffon
lines every hood and lace softens the
contact OF the fur and cheek, and Tot
less becoming and luxurious than the
above mentioned are small eoilu-es OF
painted satin novelty that has secured
many admirers and amateur manufacturers.
Not the least abatement is noticed in
the ardor with which puTveyOrs 10 fem
fnine patrons produce new styles OF
neckwear, nor in the enthusiasm with
which women receive every dainty innoya-
ton. A new necktie creating a gentle
futteF comes 10 us in the form Of
straight stock butfoning behind. covered
with 3 bright satin ribbon that folds into
a box that creates q very fine semblance
Of a full iedged butterfly. The clossness
of the resemblance Is augmented by the
sldllfui embroidery on the tops OF the era
vat ends and the shaping Of the ends on
true butterfly lines Another species Of
small tie. easily copied by amateur hn-
gers, Is nothing more than a three-inch
wide length OF crisp colored taffeta,
hemmed by machine On both edges cut in
arrowhead points az either end and there
gsrnished by three TO I'VE rows OF closely
set and gathered bebe ribbon Of white or
mixed colors.
The newest four-in-hand is also wrought
from tsfiels: the portion circling the collar
is tucked or corded into stiffness, while the
ends that now from the small knot are
quite abnOrmally large shaped like a
yachts big three-ccrneTed mainsail. and
while the tie proper is OF crisp LSfIeta in
one tone, il must be edged ali about with
q narrow Paisley patterned ribbon or bor-
der of hzif-inch wide floss fringe. The su-
rzh four in hand with embroidered ends is
sure TO wend a triumphant way right
through the season in conjunction with the
yoked flannel shirt waist This last men
tened garment comes with a yoke pointed
in front and back set into fulled body
part. and while the body part is Of plain
goods, the yoke is invariably embroidered
in bowknots, close set polka dots or small
clustered flowers
AprOp0s cf shirt waists. il seems essen
tai 10 review the belt situation. Though
All authorities on the art OF dress admit
that belt Of stiff canvas satin or leather,
uEduly crnamented and o: j tone that does
mo- match either waist OF skirt. and that
describes 3 hEed circle about the body. Is a
Kissing and an abo1ninafion: yea. in spite
OF il hagrant unbeccmIngncss to % out
of 100 Otherwise good figures the
belt is a tradition. a conviction with won
en-. and must consequently be rsckoned
with