The record-union., 1899-03-05


The popularity of point d'esprit, ri
valing other diaphanous textiles, was
prophesied early last winter. Already
the merchants have increased their
usual orders threefold for this fabric
in black, white and fancy colors.
A neat tailor costume for Lenten
wear is made of friar's-gray cloth, the
skirt sheath-like in outline, and WITH
a slight train. On each hip is van
dyke pattern in gray silk cord ana Sill
yer braid, the extreme point of the &C.
sign reaching down on the side. Inc
open-fronted round waist is elaborately
trimmed with the braid and cord, also
the sleeve-caps and collar. The odd-
shaped revers and vest are OF solI
lustrous Museovite silk, OF very DARK
gray tone, with folded belt of the same,
fastened with a curiously elaborate
buckle of old Norwegian silver. with
this is worn a graceful-little toque oil
gray French felt, with darker gray
ostrich plumes at one side partly con-
cealing one large, very natural-looking
orchid in mauve and purple.
Beige, tan, fawn, friars gray, biscuit,
doe color, very pale sage green
channels, almond, cafe au lait, soft rus
set shades, and tawny browns are all
notably popular tints among the sea-
sons handsome lightweight tailor
cloths Green, plum, dahlia, and chest
nut brown velvets, machine stitching
or rows of fancy braid, and tailor put
tons are the choice of trimmings Tor
gowns of camel s-hair, serges, and otA-
er delicate materials which are GER
tainly not adapted for general wear
but which make very pretty and dis
tinguished gowns.
The pretty Scotch bluebell blue in
cloth is relieved with white vlcuna dc-
cessories and silver braid, or soft doe
or cream-colored CLOTH with little gold
braid button loops and tiny gold but
tons. Costumes of dark miltary-red
cloth have vests of a very delicate TN.
of cameo-pink drap de chine, fastened
with small ruby buttons; and dark
green gowns are braided in black, with
guimpes or vests of biscuit color, I'M
ished with horizontal lines of plain Tat
braid a la Breton.
The five or seven rows of machine
stitching so long used as a hnlsn Tor
tailor costumes of various KINDS ar-
now increased very frequently 10 Twice
that number around the bottom OF the
skirt, with proportionate ADDITIONS Oh
the tunic OF overdress, jacket edges,
and collar, which in many cases Is eh-
tirely covered with the stitching. oh
a few special French toilets fof Gem.
dress wear colored silk stitching Is
used. This cclored stitching, however,
looks most appropriate on some OF the
light toilets for summer wear.
new black fabric for Lenten gowns
resembles mohair interviewer with SILK
1t is called poll de chevre 1t comes
in brown and delicate shades OF gray
and is made up into, gowns rather more
elaborate in style than the conven-
tional tailor dress. 1t is not unlike
Henrietta cloth, and makes effective
nlaited frills and graduated hounces-
II clings to the figure in most oe-
sirable manner, and its sheen is eN-
ouisite. but. alas, it has one sad laui''
like most silk-warp textiies-ts pro-
rensity to wrinkle easily is achnoWi-
edged even by the merchants VINO oier
it for sale.
The aressmakers will be 10th to yleld
10 request for any sort OF sim core
ing or other barrel-hoop expansion
about the extreme edge OF the VI
slirt All the flare permissible Is CD
tanned by means of the curVlng cu' VI
the new skirt patterns, the oeil a
rangement of widening skirt trifnihNios
the slight. uniform stiffness inpa. leu
by very numerous rows OF machin1
stitching, and the full friils and houiives
of the silk petticoat worn beneath t'ie
gown
The closely fitted, open-fronteo prln-
cesse dress, curving away at the sues
over a plain petticoat front, anu Guy
almost as long at the back as the I'M
,9erskirt. is especially becoming TO tiie
short woman. who needs the erect OIL
long straight lines. The new sklrt-
modals display a variety in shapes ana
decorations. to suit every inquire, pu'
the habit-like outline and erect peioW
the waist are universal, whaaeVer may
he the disposal of textiles ana TRIM
,,,;,,ss on the lower half of the skirt
p,ousa waists of Liberty satin In this
color are most charming on slehuer
blonde women, the front IN surpice
form. with draperies of ecru SIX lace
collar and cuffs of matching tint. me
various kinds of crepe wools are not 70
he confounded with those USED lot tar
Tor gowns. They are employed for more
dressy toilets. very much as crepoh'
lard carmelite and drap d'Alma are
used. offering like opportunity iol
decoration
The persistent little bolerc, in brand
new spring guises bids fair to hold its
own quite as successfully as. the shirt
waist in its novel and repeated forms.
This little jacket, put on above softly
folded surplice waists, appears on some
of the new. French costumes, and also
on polonaise toilets and princesse
dresses that lace or button at the
back. Some of these boleTos, very
diminutive in size. curve over the chest,
reach but very few inches beneath the
arms leaving an unbroken view of the
waist line and hips, about which the
gown Is fitted with absolute perfection.