Martinsburg herald. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1881-1920, 1899-12-23
NEW YORK FASHIONS
THEY CONE HIGH FOR THOSE
WHO MUST HAVE THEM.


clipping from a magazine, which stat
ed that tailor-mace suits might be
had for SIS up. She enclosed SIS. ana
minute directions as to cut, color. ma
terial, etc. ! knew before | started
out just what Wild goose chase
was destined for, but she was dear
friend and | resolved to take nothing
for granted
/ wasted two whole days, spent two
dollars in carfare and luncheon, lost
my patience, aroused the ire of divers
saleswomen because | tried to get
stylish. well-mada gown for the
money | found at last the exact copy
of the cut she sent me. and the price
was $40.
The socalled bargains In the big
department stores are bargains only
when the purchaser can remodel the
garment that Is slightly behind the
style and adapt it to her needs. The
exhorbitant prices asked for some
gowns and coats often apparently
have no cause for being. 1t may be
due to the special cut, the use of an
exclusive materia. or an unusual
amount of handwork that often dou-
bles the actual cost of the garment.
Fashionable womea who order their
gowns from Paris, or can buy the lat
est importations, have already dis
cardcd a fashion by the time the great
feminine world Is wearing it on the
street, SO the woman who Is not par.
ticular as to the latest mode can often
pick up beautiful costumes at a low
cost, but they cannot always be had
by seeking.
Except for fieeting styles, it pays to
buy good materials and weli-made
trimmings. One clever woman, who
does most of her own dressmaking
and makes her hats says She is very
careful to buy the best her purse az
fords, and the moment the trimming
becomes out of date she rips 1t off and
lays it aside, knowing that in seven
years it Will be III style again. She
has an ermine collar on her new
tailormade suit that was a Christmas
present when she was nine years old.
and white evening waist adorned
with silk fringe that decorated her
commencement gown years ago
> never give away finery,7 she says,
If friend needs anything that
have for certain purpose, / am gen
erous. but indiscIiminate giving is
worth nothing and aever appreciated
Fur hats are especially fashionable,
and if you have any scraps of fur, you
can, if you are car eful, make toque
yourself, while sable and chinchilla
are the favorites, other furs make
pretty combinations. To cut fur, lay
it face downward ON a board and cut
on the skin side with a sharp knife
Sew it overland on the wrong side
and smooth the seam with the fingers.
The very narrow turn over white
collars can easily be made at home.
These are made of Sheerest cambria
Fawn or null with the finest hand
embroidery or edged with real lace.
Dainty embroidered handkerchiefs are
used for this purpose or even the
sheer hemstitched ones. These turned
over collars are slipped into a band
the width of an ordinary stock collar,
and this band is sufficiently stiff to
give support to the tie that is worn.
A vivid contrast to the animal scarfs
and boas seen at a recent festival was
a boa made entirely OF violets. An
other remarkable specimen in neck
wear is very short chiffon cape and
long ends made of chenille fringe and
sable fur.
Silks, gauzes and velvets are all
painted by hand and used as trim
ming OF course. the work must be
exquisitely done, for there is nothing
more ugly than crude painting on
handsome gown, and even when well
done, must be used most sparingly
The aim of dres5gnakers is to make
the waist appear rs long as possible,
and belts, when worn, should be quite
incpnspicuous, On many OF the cloth
gowns the waists are put over the
i Alt -
rowest possible bias band with ma
chine stitching. the ends of which
cross in front or at the back with hook
and eye.
Fancy 1nuffs are TO be the STYLE
and all the good costumes now have
muffs made especially for them. They
are very small affairs, these fancy
muffs, but the materials of whichthey
are composed cost large price. Lace
and fur are combined IN most charia
ING haphazard way with an utter dis
regard as to the value of the material.
q 8Aif made entireis OF lace viii have
band of sable around the centre and
tnea six or eight sable tails tied in
front. with a Knot OF ribbon and occa-
sionally a bunch of very fine artificial
flowers. None OF these muifs are large
and apparently are in contrast to the
large muffs OF fur that are SO smart
with the tailor gowns. Bear fur, the
black, the gray and the cinnamon
hear muffs with long boas to match,
are considered particularly desirable
this year and when a woman is tall
enough TO wear them without looking
like Il bear cub herself, the effect is
certainly very good. Sable and mink
are as popular ss ever. while chin
chilla is used as commonly as though
IL were torchon lace,
The princesse style OF dress is be-
coming more and more fashionable, as
more and more dressmakers are learn
ing how to turn out a good-looking
gown made ia this style. A garment
that used TO be called the polonaise is
more often seen than a whole prin-
eesse gown. although it is called by
the latter name 1t is long, tight-fit-
ting coat worn over quite long skirt
made of the same material and
aounce OF the underskirt shows below
I Ana rnof This rAnt foutap1 of tha