The times., 1899-12-10

so high the green stacks seem 20 be waltz
ing along OF their own accord. except Tor
bells ianglng in a muffied way under the
fodder, and boys prodding vioiOusly VITA
their gOads Peasant women come riding
to market with all manner of country pEO-
duce from flowers. fruits, and vegetables,
to living pigs kids and chickens dangling
from the wooden saddle yokes; rye and
corn are brought down from mountain
farms i'm panniers; tree trunks, 10 he con-
verted into timber. are attached %
cross-beam laid over the backs of TWO
dOnkeys and so it goes to the end of the
chapter all the work of this lazy people
depending largely upon the tiTe-ess and
patient beast of Balaam-
The Best Way to Ride.
In the cumbersome native saddle, with
their huge wooden yokes at the front and
back. even men do not sit astride. They
ride something as I'm the wild Irish lauuut-
ing cars, with both legs dangling over the
right side and in moments of peril clutch
the front yoke with their hands Under
raking a donkey jaunt I'm these parts. you
might as we'll lay aside your dignity in the
beginning, for an attempt to assume either
a graceful or stately attitude is TO render
Yourself unnecessarily ludiCrous. IL IS bet
ter. bv far. TO copy the Portuguese style Of
IINlLE. utuiAtL Al' IA 'A-N '-AAA va O.
Interrogation mark reversed, maintaining
precarious equilibrium by the under side Of
the knee joints
Thus up hill and down dale you plod,
past farms and orchards and vineyards,
with the distant mountains always IN view
Through a constant succession OF sleepy
hamlets. lying close together. each with
its central fountain surrounded by loiter-
ing dOukeys, peasants, and water carriers
IL .-E,v- ba.r NFf-.z IA
Seuhora t''our LADY,, with Outstretched
hands. invites 10 prayer; and occasional
wooden crosses. each erected TO mark
murder probably by brigands, every cross
surrounded by its heap of stones, denOtinS
the petitions of passing travellers Tor the
repose of the unshriven soul. and YOU ada
a pebble to the collection, lest your own
meet a similar fate at the next turn OF the
road As the end OF the day approaches
YOU elect 10 pass the night in one OF the
vilIages-no matter which. yCu will wish
you had gone further i'm any event.
A description of one rural inn answers
for ali the rest. III is the pOsada of Don
Ouixotes day with no alterations Orig
inally built to- withstand a siege hundreds
of wears ago when abbOts, triars, and mer-
chants travelled with treasure. liable 20 be-
attacked at any minute bY such grand rob
bers as Giraldo its walls are many feet
thick. lis windows tiny grated aperures,
it's sIeeping rooms no larger than the cells
of austere monks, and its doors OF riveted
and bolted chestnut with iron lattice lStes
behind them Your apartment has always
the same meagre furnishing bed ot
four stout posts set into huge frame,
laced across with rawhide thongs ON which
is laid a shapeless sack OF corn husks and
several wooden blankets hand-WOveu by the
women of the district. Al the head thereof
hangs an iron crucitiX, and perhaps q title
brass or pewter font FOR the holy water
which YOU have surely brought aloHg in
bottle TO ensure safety on the journey. The
one chair, or stool, is of piece with ,he
hedstead-a hollow frame, laced across
with rawhide Upon the floor in one cor
ner is a tin basin filled with water for
washing. and near IL lies q hand-woven
linen towel, coarse but clean.
Products OF the Cuisine.
You may watch the cooking of your
breakfast and supper, over small blaze
of faggots in the open courtyard, There
is no public diningroom, and table, bare
of cloth, will be spread in your room. The
centrepiece will be brown earthen plate