The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-11-12
TRUFFLEs AND MUSHROOMS.
Methods by which. he Two Deiicacies May
He Had mt Their Hest.

| lie Had at Their Best.
Mushrooms and truf1cs TO be eaten in per
lection should be fresh. The aroma Of both 4,
| no evanescent that those who cannot cat them
az soon as they arc lifted from tho ground are
| deprived Of the enjoyment that imparts special
zest TO both. In these days rapdty Of tranSpor
tation makes II possible for jewellers in localities
| distant from places where these fungi are grown
TO procure them in condition In which they re.
tain all Of their aromatic characteristics.
IL is only those whose sense Of taste is blunted
| through excessive use OF tobacco or OF spirits
| who cannot appreciate the particular SAVIOR Of
mushrooms or Of truficrs To those IL makes no
| difference whether they are fresh or stale
Mushrooms nrncially cultivated are SO
inferior In flavor 10 those found in the
fields as TO eliminate all hesitation as to
tho choice beween the two The FIRST are
suitable only for decorative cooking while in the
second this quality IL absent and they intended
solely 10 be treated as an alimcnt that responds
MS readily TO the simplest as 1t does TO the most
elaborate culinary efforts There are two stages
In the growth Of mushrooms. when they are on
the button and when they are fully open and
the spore bearing ridges form rosy lining to
the expanded top In either condition they should
I've firm and plump. and never used when the
ridges are black not that they are poisonous
when In that condition. but they then possess
quality that sometimes leads To gastric dcrange-
ments moreover the flavor dctcriorates when in
That state. For ragout the fully expanded
mushroom Is the better: To he served rs dis.
unct dish those in the button are preferable in.
asmuch as they contain less water
The drought Of last summer followed as II has
been by several soaking rains. has made the au.
tumn exceptionally prolific in mushrooms In
the country old pastures and lawns arc covered
with them. and they will continue until the ground
Is hardened by frost The American mushroom
IL tho French champgnon There In another
variety called the m,u'ssrOl which IN Europe
grows on the moss. and possesses a very much
more aromatic and delicate flavor than AgdricuS
odmptiiriJ the botanical name Of the American
species The Italians dry mOuS'sroHs. which in
me dessicat"i state ani ppwicrc they call fUghi
impaIts a very agreeable flavor FuShi can he
found In some Of tho drlicatesScn shops in the
Italian quarter Of New York This is the ingrr
dent tina! gives special SAVIOR H. certain dishes
served at Italian tables hote There IL another
OF the mushroom family. neglected totally here
which has qualities up,riur tn either the cham
pignon or mousseron This is what the French
call cepes, or the escuent BOGUS. II is very com
mon in American woods in May and June and in
the autumn. II IL u very large and firm tlcshcd
sort and for cooking better than any other II IL
not safe. however. for any hut an expert 10 Use IT,
as II Is difficult tn distinguish IL from poisonous
varieties of similar appearance that grow in the
same environment
mere are many ways OF cooking mushrooms.
la Ragnal la Dumas, la Riviera and
stuffed, in cases. with Madeira wine These
however come within the scope Of the hdur croe .,
the cuisine and are in pnss bic cNCcptat the hands
OF a highly t-ained cook whose material resources
are practically llmitless For ordinary house
in french brurgspis kitchens is entirely cnmplere
and Satisfactory. IL is called cr'Uis dur cham.
ptgnoonS. -, The mushrooms are peeled, washed and
lump 81 butter and placed upon brisk hrc until the
butter is melted tn" stewpan Is then Withdrawn
rooms are returned TO the fr- with the addition Il
peppers, spices salt and a tablespoonful Of water
In which Glove q garlic cut in imnr pieces has
rooms are cooked n iidisor Of the volks Of thrr-
eggs well beaten up il added and they are served
on bread fried in butter
TruHl-s arr called by tho French the Sar,p,
sdcrorum Of cplcures Dumas says that the
history 81 'rufl,s an account Of the. ciyiliSa-
for this fungus contains on eNccS~ II w",.y fhre
which constitutes its s"liditv and nj No same
trutiles. which is the predominant MERIT quick
in this country are Of iitlc or no culinary value
when prepared on n dish 81 which th"y ar" Ne
sole constituent For n" past twg.or 'lrr" wars
obtained in New York within two weeks
after hing taken from th' ground. In ul",.
all 81 the SAVIOR is retained and IA. field II trra,
men, II which they ar" susc"p,ibl" Is greatly
enlarg-d Si2" Is an important element and
a. Americans comman! and insist urun H."
mems find their way her" Those that come
here are brought from r"ricurl 'lr," M" black
and form thr hulk Of uIus" in ~" Occasionally
white t'uin-S from Bu,vuuIy arc rurr.H-Gli".
as well as those from Piriwnn'. which aTr also
white and marked rs the ,si"r e garli' quality
that 10 some psla'"s stamps them a. ~" choicest
sort Tn" garC 0'lur. however l. 50 "Nanrs,eut
that II they are Ia b. Transported a. any goat
distance they must b" preserved IN butter This
sort sells al about nftv cents an ounce
The aroma 81 UIf'Si - drlICH'r that nounc
who's sens" of srI" l. yitlA'e through the srluk.
ing on tobacco Is III To- select them II will De
impossible for him ~ detect whether they have
an odnr ~ cll""Sc. which indicates mat they are
unfit Tor IS" in dish - which they hrr Ia hc
the sole c0nS'i'u-.. rur employment in sauces
or ragDutS this bl"7liSn ~ matter ~ no great
moment provided th"v arr nrn 10 The touch and
sink when thrown into water
IrlW"S mrr" man any Other AiWCnt have
aroused the inventive faculty If famous cooks
TimbIe ds IRVINE, a ia ps'igpi a noted
eNamp~ Fu' ordinary talent II ~ safer 10
accept a DruyinclhI reCipr which IL cmpluyrd'al.
most universally In p"rigurd ANY on" cnn
succeed with II wh, has the us" ~ = chatting dish
an TIE means with which to purrhHS" hHf a
pound Of fresh triiil-S Thcs" may be- found In
few shops on broadway between Fourteenth
AMI Forty second streets whrr" IN" finer fruits aud
derar"S NJ" sold This m"'h0I ~ preparation
IL particularly suited Ia 'hOS" couples who indulg"
in pickering or contention; Tor trul'lcs Az nhturr
more amishle Wash and brush carefully half
pound ~ trufleS Place them for two or three
hours in hath ~ olive oil Then cut them in
slices 81 me lium thickness Put them IN n - Htng
dish with som" 81 In" oil in which they have
been scaled ~ in butter. with yali. Who'll" hopper
corns, AMI white win" When tho truillrs Hrc
cooked p lint or Sharpen them with the Juice Of
anN.,n md - ha oh Al