The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1899-11-05
GOOD TASTE IN DRESS
CAUTION OF AMERICAN WOMEN,
CHARM OF THE
FRENCH
NEW FASHIONS UNFOLDED

ThS Problem in skirts Not Yet Solved
Paris Dress Designers Trying to
Introduce the Plated Skirt Still
Revolt of Women of Good Fig
ureS-TIght-FittinGP etttcOats for
Evening GOvns-AfternOOn Gown.
The affairs of fashion gradually unfold
their many charms as the season adj
vances, without revealing much that is
really new beyond the Directoire hat,
the long coat and the problem in skirts
not yet solved. Some things, hand
painted materials especially, that were
tentatively brought out in the spring
with the approval of Paris to recon-
mend them, have at last gained favor
here after the usual six months delay.
One of the American womans charming
eccentricites is her excessive anxiety to
be up to date, and her calm disinclina-
ton TO adopt the novelty when it comes.
While she keeps one eye on Paris as the
source Of all things most desirable in
fashion. she quietly waits until a mode
is assured and it's career half run before
she really accepts it. Fashion, as she
regards it. is q law not to be lightly
considered but the true meaning of the
word, from a French WOman's standpoint,
is something which brings renewed OPP
portunities for variety in dress and the
display of taste, together with that elu-
siVe quality called chic. Fashion IS for
woman, not woman for fashion," is the
ri sis an6 CHI "
out her own individuality in dress with
every passing change, by keeping within
the prescribed outline, yet never follow
ing it to the letter.
No one gives more serious thought to
dress than the Partisan who cultivates
fashion as an art; but there is a sim
pie, an apparently unstudied, charm
about her costumes that gives a mis-
leading impression as to the amount Of
time and money they cost. The right
gown for the right time is one secret of
her success, and it is the everlasting
need of making one gown do duty for oc-
casions entirely opposed to one another
In the requirements of dress, which mis-
represents the average American wom-
ans taste. She tries, for the sake of
economy to combine so many useful
qualities in one gown that she is liable
to lose the telling point of the model
she chooses. Yet, despite the French
woman's original ideas and dainty con-
cepuonS, the American woman takes the
palm for good dressing. Her caution
Is her safeguard, and it was never more
needed than this season when the ques-
ton of coats and skirts comes up for
consideration.
The leading dress designers of Paris
have put forth every effort to launch
their special models into favor, but the
Parisians are not easily beguiled into box
plaits all around their hips; so the COM
promise between the popular close-fitting
skirt and the new models is the one with
narrow box plat in the center of the
back, widening toward the hem Still fur
Their to accentuate the long line. the
bodice may have a box plat Joining the
one in the skirt and divided by a hand
some buckle.
Some dressmakers advise the eelskin
skirt, modified Of course as to tightness.
than which there is no skirt more becom-
Ing to a good figure. If it is cut properly
1t will fall in graceful folds from few
inches below the waist line, and it does
away with the supernuous weight of use
less material. The fashion which displays
the graceful curves of the figure is not
going TO die without prolonged struggle.
TOR there are too many pretty opponents
of It's charms. One pretty skirt made bv
the tailors has two tucks nearly an inch
wide, meeting on either side of the center
Of the back and stitched down all the
way TO the hem. They simply relieve the
plainness without adding any apparent
fullness. Another pretty model shows
three or four narrow tucks at each side
Of the back, forming a cluster and ex-
finding down four five inches from the
waist line. One of Worth's especial fam
cies is the draped tunic, the fullness being
caught up in plaits at one side but this
has not materialiZed on this side of the
water
in evening gowns the tight-fitting skirt
prevail all the new petticoats are
made r. the hips with very little If any
Cuilnes It the top. The long train is a
special feature of evening gowns only,
while for calling and afternoon dress oc.
casions the demi train is in order The
most popular length for tailor gowns
rounds down at the back to tie two or