The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1899-05-28
ToPNoTcH IN WAISTCoATS.
A GILDED NEW YORK YOUTH PAID
THE PRICE LAST WEEK.


for Example, in Hosiery, Neck
ties, Etc, Smart and brilliant
Novelties in the Way of Riding
and Driving COats-TailOrs No
Longer Sheer at the Padded Brit
ish Shoulder, But Build Out All
Kinds of Figures in the Approved
London Manner.
New York, May 26.-The well-dressed
American man does not object to paying
a good price for a good thing, and the top
notch in masculine extravaganza in clothes
was reached last week. when $50 was PAID
by a gilded youth for one waistcoat. II
was not imported, but made up by the
tailor who sways the sartorial destinies of
the smart young millionaires of the en-
pire city. This particular waistcoat look
ed every stitch it's value. lis material
was a rich red goods picked out in white
silk spots and closed with fiat buttons
of French silt that wears like gold.
The small but costly garment was worn
with silver gray cashmere suit, and II
any man wishes to know what sort of tie
goes well with this type of vest let him
try a black bow or knot picked out in
small white figures.
TO invest a thousand dollars in spring
togsery, on a shopping expedition that
consumed one morning, was the record or
another leader in the New York set that
gives some time and brains to the question
of modern haberdashery. Though thou
sand dollars looks big sum to the man
whose clothes are a necessity and not
luxury of his life, it scarcely overstocks
a wardrobe when the purchasing is done
at any of the leading tailoring establish
ments. Since the spring fashions crys-
talized two or three important facts have
been made evident concerning the dress OF
American men. The first is that the pad
ded coat is no longer a strange and inter-
esting object. London tailors nearly al
ways pad frock and evening coats, and
artfuly build a mans shoulders to the
form they should have, and not on the
shape they may naturally display. EV-
cry man, says the English tailor, has a
right to squared broad shoulders, and If
nature has denied him his birthright it's
the tailor's duty to make good the loss.
Fashions From France.
The New York tailor was slow to adopt
this subterfuge, but the first step has
been made. and henceforth customers will
not even be asked whether they wish
their shoulders made for them or not. The
tailor will shape the top of this garment,
send it home, and safely trust that no
man, when he has observed himself in his
new habit, will dare to have the scientific
padding ripped out. New York tailors and
those in other large cities put forth most
new fashions as of English origin, but
as a matter of fact, great many of our
best fashions come from Paris, and,
though an Englishman would cheerfully
lay him down and die rather than dis
play on his person a Gallo style, the
American knows no such prejudice.
For example, all the gay silk, Isle and
cotton hose on the market this season,
the butterfly neck bows, the white spats
with summer shoes worn in the after
noon, the new shape of top hat and yet
more details of dress on this order are
direct importations from Paris.
Frenchmen have an inbred fondness for
wearing jewels, and the rings and watch
chains we have adopted of late are all
done on the Partisan pattern. One detail
OF the toilet, now most popular in Paris,
the American, however, is too nearly re-
lated to the Anglo-SaXon to adopt, and
that is artificially curled hair. Ondules and
creped tresses are dominant, even uni
Versal, in the gay capital, and they are
secured by exactly the same means that
the gentler sex employ. A good French
valet numbers among his accomplish
ments the art of waving hair with hot or
cold tongs, but il is here that the Ameri-
can draws the line, and takes his hair
straight-even more rigidly straight and
closely plastered to his scalp than his Brit
ish brother
Top Coats.
Men and their tailors have come to an
agreement as to the continued fullness
of driving coats that show curiously short
shoulder seams for in order TO give am
pie room at the armhole the sleeve is set
into rather tremendous Orifice made by
cutting out generously on the shoulder
Also It's the rule to bring the seam of the
sleeve to the upper side of the arm, and at
its top 10 make exact junction with the
one on the shoulder. In the rear a strap
is often introduced across the shoulder
blades to the effect that a double pointed
yoke is simulated, and this is done chiefly
to lend an appearance of extra shoulder
width that the big armhoie and high ser |
sleeve does so much to counteract.
This Is the type of coat that men who |
own motor vehicles and maneuver then,
with their own hands, are wearing for |
that which IS good enough to drive a
nurse HI II Qulle suitable Tor a smart auto- |
mobile. For bad weather a smart leather |
motor carriage coat is the proper garment |
Piable waterproof brown leather is what |
this coat is made of. The leather is 60
treated that it sheds rain like rubber ana |
yet 1t is not hot nor stiff and intolerab-a |
even, as the best macintosh invariably, ie |
in summer weather. A motor coat drons |
nearly to the knees, has an abundance of |
pockets inside and out, on the five fat b,t-
tons that close it in front the owner |
initials are usually etched, and a rather |
shallow Prussian collar completes il at tba |
neck. " 'iie
For Sporting Wear.
Norfolk jackets used TO be tbe iseaJ SIN,
mer sporting coats when a simple reefar |
or blazer was not worn. This sun,
mer the golfng, fishing and shooting mo-,
are all going to wear the Westburv who,
is nothing more than a Norfolk win IN |
sorts of patent appliances. The hroad |
box nlait straps that used to ornar 49,
the Norfolk are turned inside on the We
bury, closed breast high and sbo,1de. |
blade high at back and front. Rut aho,,o
these points the box plaits are left oyo,,
SO that when gun or club is raised ~.