The record-union., 1899-04-16


There are tailors and modistes who
think that a large person looks better
in sk1rted three-quarter coat than in
position basque bodice. This is
mistake. The skirts of the coat may
conceal in a degree the ungraceful
curves of the figure but they do not I'M
prove 1t, and furthermore, the length Of
these coat skirts cuts off so much of
the needle length of the dress skirt be-
meath. If not liked the position basque
bodice can be changed for an entirely
different style of gown, which is very
often the best a woman of ample pro-
portions can select, an open-fronted
polonaiSe above a plain or striped I'M
derdress, the back breadths of the pol
onaise arching down to the very hem
of the underskirt
After a thorough review of the latest
Partisan styles at the recent openings
at various city importing houses, the
general opinion of women of experience
and Judgment, accustomed to the study
OF fashion in all its phases, is, that
while the long, stately, clinging effects
are in many ways picturesque as an
artistic study, they are undeniably try
ing and uncomplimentary to the major
ity of women. Fortunately for the ex-
tremely slender women, there have just
appeared some mitigating compromise
styles which greatly improve their ap-
pearance.
Models of summer toilets show fine
tucking employed in diagonal, diamond
| shaped and horizontal forms. Epau-
| ettes are tucked as are cuffs, the edges
| OF tunics, peplum ends and tiny applied
| basques
! The Anderson checked and striped
zephyr ginghams appear in a number of
| odd and beautiful color mixtures this
season. Some of the French zephyrs
appear with satin like bars crossing a
delicate surface, the blocks between
| dotted in color matching the satin
lines and the pink, violet, stem green
and other dainty organizes have wild
rose and foliage. mignonette, Mar
guerlte and other floral, scroll or bow
knot borderings.
| As.-Jrg the latest compromise STYLES
| IN dress skirts, designed particularly
for those who cannot or will not adopt
the extreme models, is one formed Of
graduated box plaits that reach from
belt to hem. tapering to about two
inches in width at the top There are
two different waists which go with this
skirt, one in which graduated box plaits
like those on the skirt reach from
shoulder to belt; the other plated also.
but with a deep shaped yoke, covering
| n hQ ict
back, and only the plat exactly in front
reaching the entire length of the waist
| The second skirt model has a very
closely gored foundation. On its lower
half, on the front and sides are ar
ranged five fiat kilt plaitings, an inch
and half wide, alternating with an
eighth inch wide box plat. which
reaches around the entire skirt. On the
upper half of the skirt is a plain over
dress, apron fronted and sweeping down
at the back to the very edge of the
| lnderskirt
Very handsome costumes of vicuna.
light weight ladies' cloth or soft kid
| cloth are made of two distinct shades
of the fabric, and decorated with straps
| of the darker shade and small round
l
| desired, straps, vest and revers of
cream or white cloth are used with a
| yoke of braid work or silk cord an
| plique. The white cloth decorations give
| style to the gown, while not adding
much to the expense, as three-ouarters
| OF yard of this wide fabric will cut
up into plenty of trimmings fer both
waist and skirt.
In these days of outlining effects. yo-
| men of heavy build have to be careful
to select down sweeping lines. belt-to
mem garnitures, strap and button trim
mlngs, fiat bodice decoration and to
avoid layer upon layer of material be-
low the waist, including the objection
able three-quarter coat. There are but
few darts or seams on the most FASH
ionable bodices, for either day or even
ing wear; but, if by deviating from
somewhat rigid rules. the too solid form
OF the wearer of any sort of basque
poolce or other waist can be greatly
improved by numberless curving seams
ana double front darts. it is far better
10 allow these seams and darts to be
made, for nearly all of them can be
deity covered with lines of fiat gimp
POliilcd DIeIelleS, graduated
bands, etc.
considerable use is made of machine
stltched bands of the costume fabric on
tailor suits of pique and linen. These
are arranged upon the gown after the
manner of the bands on cloth gowns.
small white pearl buttons being substi-
tuted for those of gimp or bone Gray
or dark blue linen suits are trimmed
with insertion bands of white embroid-
cry, sometimes dotted or striped with
cherry red. Deep ecru all over trim
mlngs and bands are used on fawn col
ored Hollands and grass linens in the
form of yokes, guimpes, epaulettes ard
edgings.
Many of the newest yokes, guimpes
ana blouse fronts to wear under basque
podlces are made with minute tucks
across the yoke or guimpe, a style very
becoming to slender forms, but by no
means favorable to those needing moth
ing TO accentuate width Horizontal
trimmings are the most popular. but
they are best suited to tall, slender wo-
men.
Old 10 Lo~,