Evening journal., 1899-01-19
SCCOKD HAND VICTUALS IN PARIS
HOW HOTED AND RESTAURANT
LEAVVNGS ARE UTILIZED.

Nothing is whsted in Paris, and even
at the hotels and restaurants all OF
the food that is LETT on the table after
a patron has FIN shed his meal is saved !
carefully This is true not only in the
third class places. where the .eayings
will be utilized in ragouts and other
myEteries, but even in the most IA
nous Of Parisian restaurants, and des-
sert, salad, fish, are preserved, as well
as the meat and vegetables, which
nave greater possibilities in the line OF
lreincanation. A visit to one Of the
great Parts markets will explain the
destination CT the collections Of food
scraps. and though occasional weak
stomached tourists object to this par
ticu.ar variety of French thrift, the
scheme has much to commend it.
Paris markets are not profitable
fields for strangers Of inquiring dispo-
Isttions and weak stomachs. The snails
lsquirming frantically about in big
pals, the live ee.s, writhing IL
water tanks or on the chopping boards,
the many unattractive but de-
lectable dellcaeies that are usual
ly encountered only in a state
Of apotheosis on a French table, are
dishoncerting in their primitive state
and take away a mans appetite. But
the stalls where the hotel and restau-
rant food scraps are Old are really
rather appetizng. The merchant who
owns the stalls has an Arrangement
with certain hotels and restaurants,
and each day ca8,s for their refuse
food. He pays little for it, and nat
ura,ly the management oEnnot afford
TO have the food of different kinds col
lected separately. An OF the frag-
ments are put together, but they are
saved in careful and clean way.
The merchant separates the food,
putting all the pieces Of fish in one
, ld!sh, the meat in another, the pota.
toss in another. Then comes the test
, Of his genius. It is not easy to make
a plateful Of those leavings look savory
and appetizlng, but the thing may be
done more often than one would think
possible, and the amount of art lavish
ed upon the arrangement Of those vi
ands wcu.d make a man famous In
E America. The proprietor Of the stall
4 and madame, his wife, work culinary
E miracles with those despsed leavings
which over here would probably go te
the garbage carts and be Of use TO nS
one. Madame selects an the potatoes
, arranges a pile of them on paper OF
wooden plate, or sometimes upOI
+. porcelain. Beside them sine lays I
i, small piece OF beef, adds a spoonful O
peas, garnishes the dish with parsley
lays q slice Of lemon on the meat, and
le voi.a! 1t is infinitely more appe
tizing than the food at me Amencal
! cheap restaurant.
Rows and rows of plates are ar
/, ranged along the stall. Some hold tw
, or three kinds OF food that go wei
e together. Some contain only one kinC
. A piateful Of rich salad has been res
!, cued from mussiness. picked out, scra
!. by scrap, from the general melang'
reganished, topped by fresh slices c
A., the egg that was It's comrade in earlie
!. and better days. and there the goums
Of the Place Maubert has a BignO
salad for four sous. Perhaps som
!. gamfn's taste is for f.et with musl
n rooms. 1t comes high at the Cafe AT
"a glais, but at the market one can hay
\. 1t for a very modest sum. To be sur
= it needs warming. and the mushroom
have come together from wan
sources and have never before met tn
a1 fiiet. Perhaps the filet itself is odd
u cut, but a Slight dose Of melted bu
S, ter and artistic taste can make II
in dish exceedingly presentable.
There are customers who are N
satisfied to make a meal Of one or tN
thngs-who demand ocu1se Dime
NJ le Proprietaire is ready for them. G
"A a large plate he has put small supp
Of sach thing that goes to make up
dinner CONNIE il faut. 1t grieves nd
that he must omit soup. The sociab
character of that item of a menu ba
it from a society where each memb
n must preserve its individuality whi
N deigning to come TO close quartz
to with strangers not in its set. The mel
hS must begin with fsh-say bit Of Sc
cn that originally reposed in via bla
"a and still retains the flavor Of good S
lis eiety Then comes slice Of roast, ga
rel nished with tiny potatoes and Bru
lei sells sprouts and carrots. Next is
~ spoonful Of beet salad and following
"a =. a sweet and morsel Of cheese.
nd few Goals, a stewpan and no pref
in d.ces against the method by which :
a menu has been prepared, and one b
r. dinner for a nabob.
On The sweets or desserts andthe gre
49,, 4H,fya.-- tt,,4 ,,,y,.af s.H.t.