The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1899-01-12


greatly modifies or completely spoils them;
this process is carried on cold so as TO
obviate that. Square frames, 3 inches deep,
wide and long, with a glass bottom,
are required. over the glass layer of fat
is spread, a quarter of an inch thick, with
a plaster knife. and over this flower buds
are sprinkled and allowed to remain from
twelve 20 seventy-twO hours. The animal
doors are only used in combination with
other scents, and, even to the most fieeting
ones, gives permanence to them, a quality
much esteemed.
You ask about the changing styles in
perfumes and the whims of women with
reference TO them. Right here let me so
on record as saying that the love of per
fumes in all their forms Is
by no means confined to
woman. Men are very fond of using
perfumes, and show preference for very
strong animal odors. Many women use
the same perfume year in and year out
il really becomes a part of them and
breathes of the character. Their friends
no matter if they stray far into other
words, are reminded of them when whiff
of this odor chances to come to them
Other women change their perfume every
season. An English physician long dead,
once advised that a special odor. in It's
material sense. should be employed ac-
cording to environments, age, youth, joy,
sorrow, and so on.
Why said he, should we not know
our fair friends by the delicate odors with
which they are surrounded, as we know
them afar off by the charm of voice? There
is an appropriate odor, to our minds, to
each particular character. The spirituelle
should affect jasmine; the brilliant and
witty, magnolia the robust, the more
musky odors, and young girls just bloom
ing into womanhood, the rose. The citron
like PERFUMES are more fitted for the mel
ancholy temperament, and there is a sad
minor note in heliorope that the young
widow should affect.
There must be something in his theory,
for some women are very whimsical about
perfumes. Those who have made one
odor a part of themselves aren't but they
are in the minority. A customer comes
in and asks what is the latest in perfume.
A salesman tells her, say, heliotrope, and
she answers:
" Oh l can't use that, for it reminds me
of Mrs So-and-So, and 1 detest her
" Violet is good, suggests the salesman.
g Too common and too insipld,' she ans
wers.
" Did you ever try tuberose or jasmine?
the salesman asks.
"'Oh, they remind me of funerals; l
can't use Them she exclaims, and so
does magnolia Lilac; I think I'll try lilac.
Somehow that carries me back to my
childhood, and then it has no musk in 1t. !,
"'Oh no no musk in It, answers the
salesman without a qualm, and the Gus
toner goes off to saturate herself in lilac
as long as her supply lasts.
ut is.astonishing how much some women
spend on perfumes Perfumed flannel for
lining wardrobes and bureau drawers is
very fashionable just now and very ex-
- IL rpll= for
twelve francs yard and heliotrope and
other less favored odors for nine francs,
while here it brings as high as SIS a yard
know one woman who buys forty yards
of the violet-scented flannel a year. 1t has
| an advantage over sachet bags inasmuch
| as there is no powder TO sift through on
| ones clothing. It is not at all uncommon
| for a woman to buy fifteen or twenty
| pounds of orris powder at a time with
which to scent her belongings, and from
| two to five pounds of violet or heliotrOpe
or rose sachet powder of the greatest
| strength is not considered by any means a
| large sale OF course these things come
! under the head of dry perfumes, as do
| the highly scented tablets which women
| use in the bath, and the perfumed medal
! lions which some women now wear sus-
| pended about the neck or in the pocket.
! These perfumed medallions were fashion,
/ able in Elizabeths time also, and soon be-
| came mediums for the most exquisite de
! vices in jewelry, and were offered as gifts
! as we offer lockets or pendants to-day.
! However, these amulets probably originat-
ed with the East Indians, for the ancient
! Persians used solidified perfumes almost
exclusively and were fond of burning
| them. Bran bags combined with perfumed
| soap are also popular for the bath, as they
| not only leave a pleasant scent about the
| person, but the bran is supposed to soften
and whiten the skin.
| "A great many wealthy women carry out
what the trade calls the on&perfume
scheme in everything. Say a woman has
a weakness for violet. She uses a violet
bran bag, a violet tablet violet toilet
water in her bath; she has her wardrobes
| and bureau drawers lined with violet-scen
ed and colored flannel; her clothing is laid
away in violet sachets; she wears a violet
amulet about her neck; violet extract
| scents her handkerchief, and her hair
| dressing is strong with the odor; if she
smokes she perfumes her breath after her
| cigarette by allowing a violet breath tab
! let to dissolve in her mouth: her face pow
| der and tooth powder are violet, and she
has lunches of artificial violets, with a
scent that cannot be detected from the real
around her boudoir, and violet oil is burn
ed in a perfume lamp When the atmos-
| phere becomes heavy to her mind she
burns violet pastilles to purify it, An this
costs her hundreds of dollars, but money
is no object 10 such people, and they boom
the perfume business. When such women
| give entertainments they like to impart
| to the different rooms in their houses the
sense as wen as the appearance of what
the rooms represent. For example, they
| burn sandalwoOd in a Persian room, get
ting thereby the real Persian atmosphere
so they claim I've heard some of their
men guests say afterward that it was the
atmosphere of-well, the hottest place on
| record.
THE majority of people can afford to use
only wet perfumes, with perhaps a little
sachet powder. In these the greatest
sales probably are in German colognes,
which 10 my mind doesn't speak well for
the pubics sense of smell. OF course,
IL is an undisputed point that the French
excel in the art of perfumery l agree
with an Old gentleman customer who has
been coming here for years for a certain
French extract. He always says the same
1 thing when we nand him the bottle to OK
| anime, and it is this: