New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1899-11-26
EXAMPLES OF PARIS ART.
COMBINATION GOWNS STEADILY GROW
ING IN FAVOR
EMBROIDERED COSTUMES LOOK LIKE ENORMOUS
P1EcFs OF FANCY woRK-FEATHER col
LARS MATCH GOWNS

PIECES OF FANCY woRK-FEATHER col
LARS MATCH GOWNS.
Paris November II.
rrbrolderies are considered so modsh this season
that there is great danger OF their being used with
mt reason or discretion. Too much fancy work on
dress Is trivial and fussy. There Is less danger
where the embroidery is done in the color OF the
dress and where the pattern is bold and original
The kind OF trimming that is a failure occurs on
good many OF the gowns of light cloth or SILK
designed for an afternoon reception or theatre
toilette.
A good example is a high-necked gown Of laven-
der SILK The founce forming the underskirt Is
finished with a tiny edge Of yellow lace with In
crustations 81 yellow lace figures above The long
,unlc IS cut into points. and an inch above the
edge is a row Of that silk herringbone stitch
which although used TO a great extent on gowns
and blouses stiIl suggests the elaborate kind OF
hemstitching and drawn work seen on table linen.
Above this is an embroidered pattern; first heavy
edge done In lavender chenille and then vine pat
tern outlined in white silk and small gold beads
There Is Of this on the bodice. on the tops
OF the sleeves and on the sides that turn over
from q lace vest The embroidery Is most beauu-
fully done. but the gown is absolutely lacking In
character and is nothing but an enormous piece
OF fancy work
Another example Is a pink silk dress half COW
cred with embroidery OF the same insipd kind, but
rs redeeming feature is line OF sable on the edge
the skirt and BIT OF the same fur on a little
hce bolero. Indeed, the dress would have been
prettier with the expensive embroidery omitted
lesson IN the effective use Of hand work is a
sone evening coat Of gray cloth. The garment is
cut in the box shape so popular now, with Just
suggestion Ct curve at the waist. II reaches 10
the ground and is finished by thick triple hounce
Of gray mousseline de sole. Above this is pat
tern, perhaps eight inches deep Of embroidery and
perforations. A fine gray SILK braid and gray
chenille are the materials used. and the stitch Is
heavy and gives a raised effect This embroidery
Is repeated IN a yoke There is lot OF mousselne
De sole about the collar and sleeves. One could
easily multiply these instances OF happy and I'm
happy effects produced by the present fashionable
craze
FASHIONABLE NECK TRIMMING.
Marabout feathers are again fashionable. They
make the prettiest OF neck boas and collars fash
toned entirely OF the feathers and trimmed with
lunches OF feather tails great many OF these
are in pale gray and tan. 10 be worn with tailor
made street suits. An original neck trimming just
finished IS follows The shape IS a collar with
long ends hanging nearly TO the bottom OF the skirt
and the material is white silk About the neck like
q little yoke, and the long ends inches from
the bottom. the silk is shocked and dotted with
fine Jet beads: this. Of course allows the silk 10
fare out in ruffles below the shocking About the
neck, the bottom OF the collar and the long ends
IS border Of white marabout. spotted with black
chenille dots. This collar is most effective over q
black gown.
Combinations appear TO be growing in favor. For
Instance. a polka dot is made up with a plain
material. as in the following gown lavender
WOOL dotted with black. Is made up with plain
lavender. The underskrt is OF the dotted material,
over this falls tunic OF the plain stuff cut IN an
Irregular shape about the bottom and finished by
ruche CT black mOusseline de sore. The dotted
material forms the tops Of the sleeves. the yoke
and front OF the bodice. The rest Of the bodice
consists OF low cut bolero, with little revers faced
With black velvet edged with ruching line Of
'ne same ruching joins the plain lower sleeve 10 the
dotted cap.
more dressy example Of this same model IS
effected with gray cloth and gray guipure cloth
The skirt is in one piece. but a tunic is simulated
10y hounce OF the guipure cloth. The lace cloth
over White makes the bodice with bolero pieces Of
There is little strkingly new 10 be seen at any OF
.s utessmakers The fashions for the season are
9qhcned and visit 10 the couturieres Is only
tiD.ueuve IN fancies and ideas. DOucet has
80 rIVsV node in white guipure mounted over pale
,aion chlnon over this Is a short redingOte OF
H. saAiin, embroidered with lace incrustatons
lsc uteCoetage OF the coat is finished with square
win = t..L-a OF collar. This closes on one side
scarf a1o ana long, fringed ends OF yellow silk
i isrse black velvet dots The skirt is trimmed by
bue Ia nes OF blue silk with white lace over the
s eS soit edgng the aep ' The bands are Of der
nov '.l i The skirt is the new form, made with
fecfft
seffe ~, it SIX Is simply draped about a chemi-
b.sck ,-.oi.e hOlsseline de sole, and closed with
SIX ,is,rr1 ,hOu1 ana strass buttons On a black
on The trIds Sg"h there is novel shaped rufiie
iucks lsisKlft II Is laid in clusters Of vertical
The t,rio IN extend down two-thirds OF the rule
and f6erc ~ 4rdpeq and trimmed with deep fringe.
bodice Tb slso fringe on the deep collar the
This br, mere Is nothing particularly new about
So e,s oot these fringe trimmed tuncs are always
them are uIst u Is little wonder that many OF
'o"NS AT THE CHRYsANTHEMUM SHOW.
y. must be admitted that fashions are extremely
or., ''is season One felt how true this is at the
.,,s cay OF the Chrysanthemum Exhibition !
b. was the first public event OF the season that
sA,ha sh' large number OF smart people to- |
n., '' a. was reported that there were ffty-two !
esr,, ."'ieues Of chrysanthemums displayed: It Is |
hew fssbi ,at there WAS a much larger number OF
had a rn'tv many costumes OF dark red cloth. one |
and harot. ShlIt htting closely about the figure !
hack eis..e III a straight apron IN front. In the /
vas -. d FOOT and a half from the bottom. /
ningiss "Jsltr OF half dozen narrow shaped !
tienfly IRON these hung circular fOunce suf-
The 10 spread out In fanlike little train
At the thyos" Was fastened with cluster of straps
fre,cbi III "a. udt ana again at the waist
q bar W, women are wearing much brighter colors |
| slts sra .oIHery their custom. Dark red cloth |
! e'ln"n on the street. also bright blue. |