New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1899-10-15
AT PARIS COUTURIERES'
WHAT THEY ARE SHOWING AS THE
MOST EXCLUSIVE MODELS.
NOVELTIES IN THE sHoPs-LINGERrE. JEwELRY.
SHOES AND cRAvATs-GowNs FOR STREET
AND EVENING WEAR.

AND EVENING WEAR.
/, Paris October 5.
There ia still a good deal of questioning N re-
rord 10 skirts Some Of the leading coutrreres,
bow.ver seem to agree that while the skirt In
front and on the sides is fitted as closely as pos
sible there shall be some funess behind Inc way
that this funcss is obtained differs IN various
houses pretty fashion Is single box pleat In
the back, about six inches wide at the waist and
spreading out toward the bottom Of the skirt On
another skirt Is little fan Of seven tiny p!eats
There Is still some difference Of opinion In regard to
the size OF the funess about the hem. Some OF tho
dressmakers show skirts even larger and more lily
like about the bottom than they were last year;
other models from equally reliable places seem
comparatively narrow. 1t IL safe to conclude that
personal preference may govern this point
Among the winter materials are pushes and sew
eral novelties in cloth that resembles fur. Velvet
corded and stamped with tiny hgures promises &c
be extensively used A visiting costume Is built of
an old rose corded velvet sprigsed with white Inc
bottom OF the skirt IS cut In square tabs. edged
with sable above which are stitched bands OF white
cloth The blouse has vest OF tewelled lace bor
dered with an edge of fur A gray poplln with fine
lines Of green running through 1t Is made with the
pleated skirt so fashionable at the moment on
the sides the pleats are stitched below the knees
and then spring out like large volant EN- forme
The bodice is also laid in pleats held by high
Empire belt or green pdIne over INC s"ou'u'iS 10
a collar with stole like points in front This Is OF
art auipure with an edge OF finely pleated purple
mousseline de sole.
Decidedly striking Is an afternoon gown Of pur-
pie cloth. Both bodice and skirt open on each side
from top to bottom to show a narrow panel OF vio-
let satin covered by ladder OF small purple cloth
bands. The gown is trimmed over the shoulders
and about the bottom with embroidery OF white
silk cord and purple and violet chenille. There is
belt OF violet satin.
BURNT BREAD" A NEW COLOR.
shade included among the autumn novelties Is
burnt bread color" Toasted bread would perhaps
be the better designation. for the color Is rich.
golden 1t is especially nice in satin face cloth
A model OF this Is made with a draped overskirt
edged with deep silk fringe Of the same color. On
the bodice is q single shawl revcr edged with
fringe and showing empiecement Of white
satin incrusted with black lace figures The same
house Is responsible for n CHEEKY street suit The
material IS navy blue serge. The tunic Is cut In
scallops and edged with black taffeta ribbon The
underskirt Is Of dark blue, green and black vel
plaid. The plaid furnishes the cuffs and
revers Of the bolero which buttons with three black
olives and shows beneath high draped belt OF
black silk.
Between and 6 o'clock in the afternoon the Bos
Is full Of smartly dressed The cloth cos
tune to be almost universal and In general
lines suit is like another but in the trimming
there lies a great diversity OF taste. In general
way 1t may ne stated that the trimming on the
blouse or Jacket resembles that the skirt .
description OF some OF these walking costumes Will
show how the idea Is carried out. costume OF
Admiral blue cloth had the tunic trimmed with a
dozen two inch deep pleats. arranged to form IN
front deep V. Every alternate pleat was OF blue
velvet. The bodice had pointed yoke OF white
satin braided with black silk; below this deep
velvet and cloth pleats. like those found on the
skirt. This bodice ''bloused' in front. and had
a waistband Of velvet with buckle OF coored gold
gown OF amethyst wool was simply made. The
double tunic cut in three points IN 'front.' TWO
on each side and single one behind. The tunic
proper was a princess and closed invsiby on the
side 1t was trimmed only by double collar cut
in points like those the skirt The suit was
heavily stitched with white. and there was white
lining 10 the collar and tunc that showed trif'e
There seems to he a good deal Of velvet trimming
OH cloth costumes seen in the Bots An elaborate
suit was one OF dark red cloth. The bottom OF the
bolero and tunc trimmed with velvet; the
stuff was slashed fringed in long. narrow TABS
these were finished by black piping. and fell over
q high belt and undcrskrt Of red and black plaid
velvet. The bolero cut low 10 show nm under
waist Of heavy ecru guipure. Velvet In bands
trimmed the skirt and Jacket Of costume OF
burnt bread cloth. The velvet was brown. and
the Jacket opened red silk shirt.
A black cloth gown had a long tunic fastened on
the side near the bottom with five rounded tabs.
each having black crystal button In the centre
The Jacket short and rounded over the hips: 1t
closed on tho side with a series Of roundedtabs and
buttons The revers were faced with white satin
covered with n lattice work Of black braid. This
vas a particularly graceful model The other gown
was a princess Of navy blue corded velvet cut In
slashes about the bottom and heavily stitched with
white II seemed to fasten on the shoulders and