The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1899-11-01


Pretty girls from every CLINE are IN
this city on fall shopping tours, says a
woman writing from Paris. and scores
are buying their trousseaux. And TINS
is what has been the decree OF fashion
during the past week.
Tailor-mades are to be even more
popular than for many seasons past;
skirts light at the top and very full at
the bottom, and for bands
of stitched cloth, shade on shade. always
brighter than the dress. Tight-htting
Jackets and boleros are more than ever
in fashion. Costumes will be nearly all
medium length. T-hree-quarter length is
the correct style, finished off with one
or more shaped -~flounces. the scallops of
which will allow the fullness at the bot
tom of the skirt free play.
For slight figures the straight cut, In
the sack style, but very tight, is the
most chic This requires a suppleness
of outline which leads women who are
fuller at the hip to prefer a more cur
we'd line, with which the paletot is the
proper combination.
A pretty effect is produced by two or
three skirts. one over the other, at equal
distances, leaving in general the plain
part in front to form an apron; or, again,
the rows of the skirt cut by a hollow
stitched plait in the front and at the
back. Sometimes the three skirts are
only Initiated by stitching In silk or some
brighter color than the cloth, or some-
times of a totally different color. In this
case blue makes the best combination of
color.
As a type of costume, I may mention a
plain black cloth dress, woven with very
small blue satin spots, and lows of white
stitching, producing the effect of a
double skirt; bolero corsage, kept tight
in the back by a narrow stitched waist
band, and prolonged in front into round
ed points; Tapels faced with turquoise
velvet and edged with a band of stitched
cloth.
A bright note should be given to the
lapels of costumes. White cloth, striped
with rows of stitching, fancy velvet.
embroidered with spots, or with patterns
of knots in sill cord or ecru thread work
ed by hand; and, lastly, lapels faced
with white ground palm pattern India
cashmere. h effect is. both genteel
and novel, and harmonizes with all
shades of color and of covert-coat cloth;
beige, drab. navy blue, red and the new
vanilla tint, deaf leaf, or chestnut, are
used for tailor-mades.
Very stylish jackets of red cloth are
worn with plaid skirts and with skirts
of plain cloth. You cannot enter the
show rooms Of a great house without
seeing at least three or four models.
mostly tightly-ftfing, with the basques
very much cut up in 'front.', and longer
behind, in the shape of "vestes de
chasse."
Now, what is to be said about hats?
Millinery this season is very ornate.
There are toques in large sizes; other
hats have high crowns with hrims rather
dropping in front and turning up at the
sides in a pretty curve or turning up
into an aureole in front. For trimming
the great novelty is fringes, which are
not only lavished on all stylish dresses,
but extend their reign over ladies head
gear. When used in moderation their
effect sit,not. ungraceful but skill is re-
CURED in order to avoid a heavy effect.
Another tendency Is very marked,
namely. a mixture Of the most cloudy
and the Hghtest tissues with velvet and
soft felt, and especially with fur. The
latter is so much in fashion thai to vary
the already known effects of ~astrakhan,
chinehilla and sable milliners have taken
to using skins never before seen on hats.
such as mole, white or yellow channels.
These require special care and skill to
make them look stylish.
There is a great run on ~rosettes of
bengaline or plush r~osettes composed of
loops resembling the cup of a water lily,
with a brilliant object, such as a strass,
49, - 80 1,441p ~ fhn aonfro| Tho
effect is pretty and Is a change.
Rolls of tulle are also used. At Virot's
for instance, This thoroughly original
creation, initiating tulle festhers, is a
feature. 1t is impossible to describe this
snowy "chiffonages'' but IT is delightful
and novel. A toque was covered all over
with long jet spangles, the brin pro-
jpcting slightly over the forehead, and
on the left side was a feather of white
tulle of the Amazon shape.
At virot,s the large directoire hats
have been admired. Some are entirely of
ridged tuile with high crown, brim form
ing an aureole, and in front a ball of
let, the whole In black and finished off
with a large bird of paradise, having the
proper "cachet."
"A toque of moleskin was trimmed with
a rolled SCARF OF perlWinKie plue 1lDerty
satin, with a large bow and fringed
ends falling over the chignon; a royal
blue velvet toque, frilled all over, with
a mauve aigrette at one side, supported
by a bunch of Parma ~violets; for even
ing a lovely hat of maize chiffonne tulle,
covered with g%uipure. and on the left
side a giant butterfly painted in color or
gauze. A delightful toque has a high
crown of ecru open work guipure. The
edge is frilled. and slightly turned up at
the side; 1t is In ~roseleaf velvet, edged
with sable turning to the shade of pink
wood. "A Charlotte Corday' hat is Of
pasteI-biue felt, trimmed with r~osettes
of black velvet and a tuft Of feathers.
Another is of dead leaf felt, trimmed
with rolled draperies of soft pastel-blue
mauve and pink satin; at the side brown
wings, lined with other wings In the
three colors. ''Thylda" is of violine felt.
trimmed with a drapery in two shades,
and with punches OF vielets and roses.
"a Trianon hat is, of pink rolled with
a turban Of drab ~taffetas bordered with
pink velvet and fringed with drab: cache
peigne OF mixed coEored roses. Another
toque is of moleskin and white velvet. A
pretty Amazon teque is of sable, trimmed
with a simple roll of blue .tulIe: in the