Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-08-26

placed under the brim Of the hat at the
back and rested on the couture more
youthful and simpler gown was built OF
periwinkle-blue lawn that had much the
quality of null, sheer and soft was 1t
in effect. 1t was made with long round
ing yoke to which the material was
gathered very full in the fashion OF a baby
waist. Two bands of one-inch ribbon vel
vet started at both sides of the bodice,
one just above and one just below the
sleeve. These were crossed at the front
and continuing round the waist repeated
the same design on the back of the cor
sage. Luxeuil lace covered the yoke and
close-ftting elbow sleeves. The pattern of
the Lace was traced in narrow violet satin
ribbon Frills Of lace headed by two inter-
lacing bands of the black velvet ribbon
gave finish to the sleeves.
The lawn skirt was perfectly close-htting
round the hips and was trimmed with a
broad fiounce of the same covered with APP
DliGues of Luxeuil lace. Narrow violet
ribbon traced the pattern of the lace. The
upper part of the skirt was laced across
with black velvet ribbons in the same
fashion as the bodice.
A gown of ecru lawn was a shining ex
ample of what judicious trimming of rib
bon can do to enliven the effect of an oLner-
wise ordinary creation. The corsage of the.
gown was a blouse fastening at the left
shoulder and under-arm seam. 1t had a
long, round yoke of the lawn back and
front, laid in tiny perpendicular tucks.
This was bordered with three narrow gath
cred velvet ribbons wrought into festoons.
These ribbons were brought up to the top
of the sleeves, where they formed double
ringed ornament. The long sleeves were
formed entirely of perpendicular tuckS, as
was the high, straight collar.
Invisible Openings at Last.
The skirt was made with long tunic
that fitted close around the hips and fasten-
ed in an invisible way at the side. At the
bottom it was cut in four rounding scallops.
the two longest being at the front and
back. The scallops We're trimmed with
festoons of the narrow black velvet rib
bon, with the ornament described between
each scallop The tunic fell over an under
skirt of pleated ecru lawn. The ceinture
was of the brightest cerise satin, with a
large square strass buckle at the middle Of
the back. This bright color note was re-
peated in the hat
The casino wrap is invariably cape a
bit longer at the back, but the length of
these garments Is a matter of individual
taste, for some come barely to the waist
line. while others vie with the skirt train
in length. The softer silks are most favor
ed for casino wraps, but often the
terial is entirely eclipsed by innumerable
ruffies of chiffon or entirely covered with
lace. One wrap made with Nile green surah
had cool, frosty air about 1t that was
graceful 1t was cut in the prevailing fash
ion, with decided dip at the back, Y hich
reached several inches below the waist
band The entire cape was covered with
Brussels lace, spangled with strass. Around
the bottom of the cape there was full
frill of white chiffon, heavily spangled. The
neck, which was slightly V-shaped, was fin
ished with long fichu of chiffon, which
reached to the bottom of the gown. A mar
row frill of spangled chiffon bordered the
edges of the fchu.
The Shepherdess Hat.
In the last few weeks the simple Dresden
shepherdess hat has grown into favor for
lawn parties and casino toilets. Nothing
more simple and naive can be imagined. A
broad-brimmed, hat-crowned hat of chip
or light rough straw with narrow band
of ribbon tied at the side in the most nom
chalant bow Not another atom of trim
ming on them, and yet the effect on the
right sort of piquant face is charming.
Then, too. the broad br1m serves a shade
for the eyes that really do suffer under
dazzling electric lights and innumerable
swinging lanterns. This picture hat pos
sesses also another virtue that makes 1t
practical for evening calls, when one will
be expected to remove ones hat. 1t is so
light and so easily adjusted that 1t has no
ruinous effect on the couture.
NINA GOODWIN.