The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-11-12
TRUFELEs IND Mushrooms.
Methods by which, he Two Deiicacies May
lie Had at Their best.

| Methods by which he Two DeIicacies May
| lie Had at Their best.
Mushrooms and truiles TO be eaten in per
| lection should be fresh The aroma Of both Is
| no evanescent that those who cannot cat them
az soon as they arc lifted from tho ground are
| deprived of the enjoyment That imparts special
zest TO both In these days rapdity Of uanspor.
tation makes IL possible for jewellers in localities
distant from places where these fungi are grown
to procure them in condition in which they re-
tain all Of their aromatic characteristics.
IL is only those whose sense Of taste Is blunted
through excessive Of tobacco or Of spirits
who cnnno, appreciate the particular SAVIOR Of
mushrooms or Of truflcrs To those IL makes no
difference whether they are fresh or stale
Mushrooms artincially cultivated are SO
inferior In flavor TO those found in the
helds az TO eliminate all hesitation as TO
the choice bcwccn the two The FIRST are
suitable only for decorative cooking while in the
second this quality is absent and they intended
solely ~ be treated an alimcnt that responds
rs readily 10 the simplest as II does TO the most
elaborate culinary efforts There are two stages
In the growth Of mushrooms. when they are on
the button and when they are fully open and
the spore bearing ridges form rosy lining to
the expanded top. In either condition they should
be hrm and plump. and never used when the
ridges are black: not that they are poisonous
when In that condition. but they then possess
quality that sometimes leads to gastric dcrange-
ments: moreover the flavor dctcrorates when in
that state For ragout the fully expanded
mushroom is the better; TO be served rs n dis.
unct dish those in the button are preferable in
asmuch az they contain less water
The drought Of las, summer followed as II has
been by several soaking rains. has made the au.
tumn exceptionally prolific in mushrooms In
mt ..Il
with them. and they will continue until the ground
Is hardened by frost The American mushroom
Is tho French champgnon. There In another
variety called the mbutJsroi which In Europe
grows on the moss and possesses a very much
more aromatic and delicate flavor than AgdricuS
odnpiiriS the botanical name Of the American
species The Italians dry mouS,erons. which IN
This Is employed m,inIy.in ragouts To which 1t
imparts very agreeable flavor fuShl can he
found In some Of tho diclicatesscn shops in the
dent tina! gives special SAVIOR t. certain dishes
served at Italian tables hote There is another
OF the mushroom family. neglected totally here
which has qualities superior tn either the cham
piRnon or mousSeron This IL what the French
cali cepes, or the escueni bois'us IL is very com.
mon in American woods in May and June and in
the autumn IL Is a very large and firm ncshcd
sort and for cooking better than any other 1t is
not safe however. for any hut expert tu use IT,
as u Is difficult IN distinguish II from poisonous
varieties Of similar appearance that grow in the
There are many ways Of cooking mushrooms
Ia Ragnal, la Dumas. a la Riviera and
stuffed in cases. with Madeira wine Those
however come within the scope Of the hGuf, eco o,
the cuisine and are impnss HE except At the hands
OF highly t,ained cook whose material resources
are practically limitieSs For ordinary house
holds simple recipe almost universally employed
in french bourgeOis kitchens Is entirely complete
and satisfactory. 1t is called tr'ut, dur chdmt
pfgnonS The mushrooms peeled. washed and
dried They are then put in a stcwpan with a
butter is melted The StsWDAu IL tleu Withdrawn
and the Juice 81 a lemon is added The mu,h
rooms are returned to the hr- with the addition Il
peppers spices salt and a tablespoonful Of water |
In which Glove Of garlic cut in four pieces has |
been immersed for half an hour When the m,si.
eggs well beaten up il added and they are served |
on bread fried in butter
sderorum Of cpcures Dumas says that the |
history 81 uufiles IL an account 81 the civili5a.
ton Of Ne world This is unIu" .cn'hpstasm,
fot this fungus contains an eNccS- Of woody nhrr
which constitutes its soltdity and nj 'hr sane |
time It's infsriority when contras'"d with he |
Tenderness Of the mushroom. ~" aroma II |
truffes which is the predominant r,"fi, quick |
ly disNipates Therefor" those used generally |
when prepared on a dish Of wicl ih"y ar~ lie |
sole constituent For H." past twuur ,rc" yrars. |
n nSw.r IN Ssw nF"YS ''"T Fam 'Hn Re
after hing taken from III" ground. In tl",,
all q NE saver Is retained and N, hrll 81 trcG,
enlarged S1" il an important element, and |
a. Americans comman AMI insist ur"n n"
mems find Their way her" Those that cone
here are brought from f"riGurl these mr." black |
and form thr hulk Uf tlUs" in Us" Occasionally
white t'uih-S from Bu'vuuiy arc rurrla-Hli"
as well as thoSe from prrim"n'. which ar, sl.n
white and marked hy the odur Il CANT. q quality
that 10 some psla'.s stamps them aS ID" choicest
sort Tn" garlic olpr. however l. So "Nanrs,ent
that ~ they are Ia H. transported iu any goat
distance they must b" preserved IN butter. This |
sort sells al about fttv cents an ognc"
The aroma 81 urt'rStS - d"licn'" .hnt no one
who's sense 81 smell l. yitiH'e through the srlok-
ing 81 tobacco is III e. select them II will De
impossible for him ~ dr'"Ct whether they have
an odur ~ ch""Sc, which indicates that they are
unfit ior -" IN dish - which they hrr To- hc
the sole cons'l'u-". ror employment in sauces
or ragDutS this b"Tish ~ n matter - no great
moment. provided th"v rrr FIRM % the touch and |
sink when thrown into water
TURTLES NOR" than any other AlImcnt have |
aroused the inventive faculty Of famous cooks
eIampl- Fn- ordinary thl-n, II ~ safer 10
accept n DrnvinCiRI rrCiur which ~ Cmpluycd'hI. !
most universally In l"'iguri Any On" "nn !
succeed with II VIII has the Ms" 81 chatting dish /
pound 81 fresh ,ru'ilrI Thcs" may be- found In \ ,
few shops on broadway. between Fourteenth !
AMI Forty second streets where IN" finer fruits and
deiicirieS NJ" SOLD This m"'hrl ~ preparation |
IL particularly suited Ia 'hos" cpupi"s VIII" indulge
in pickering or contention; Tor trulcs AZ nhturrl |
more Amiahe. Wash and brush carefully half |
pound ~ ,ruFlcs Place them for two or THREE |
hours in a bath ~ div" oil Then cut them in |
slices o. medium thickness Put them ~ chatting |
been soaked ~ in butter. with salt. who'd" p"pprr
corns AMI white win" when tho 'ruiIles Hr" |
cooked. point or Sharpen them with the Juice Of |
a lemon and serve in the chatting dish.
MISS FRANCES WTLL1RD'S car.