Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1899-11-25

'f'i's luitufNlt nov Nths-Thc
traveller who has visited Rio de Janelfo
hnda many things In Oporto to remind
him OF that Portuguese city on the
other side Of the world. Brazil, the
former colony u Portugal and peopled
by the same rncc-though Just now
playing at being repubiic--rcmaina
~ like the mother country In Ian.
Cuagc, architecture and habits Of lie.
~ IN the days Of King Joa and the lat
est Dom Pedro. And then the
moncy-the same mii-rela. 40 lnnni-
tcssimal In value that Il going shop
ping. you need servant with wheel
barrow, rather than a pocket book
on landing at oporto. about the nrst
thing you do ia 10 sex some money.
changers establishment. there are sew
cfal along the quayJ and yet your
| American rfccnbacks convurtcd into
Portuguese coin. with which to pay
| pprtcrH fees, carriage hire and other
| intldontnlr. You hand out ten dollars
| nr starter, ana a'c amazed ct the
| AN ant OF metai-coppcr. iron, brnHa
ana nickcl-whlch II piled upon the
| counter In tyturn. II looks like old
| lunk-atovc.llds. pewter plates. and the
brasa tags which landlords attach to
| thcir door kcyn to prevent them from
being carried on IN the pockets u their
patrons. II ten dollars il such an
EMBARRASSMENT OF RICHES,
It would surely require cart to get
away with a hundred. nook.kceprrs
nnd bankers must have hard time ~
u W this country, with the long rows
OF hgufva that Represent the ordinary
Transaction. Of banking and mcrcan-
| tile nfmH In tho financial enumeration
OF Portugal. one thousand refs represent
| what We call "a quarter" TIL. word,
reih' u the plural OF real ana the lat
Yer unit OF the monetary system equals
on. twentieth of the American penny.
nni " written .oool. Fortunately. thcf.
u no such coin, the smallest being ten
tols. The pieces In circulation arr a
nickel OF 900 ruia, which answers for
our nve-cent piece. another nickel OF
~ rcls ana copper coin Of 10 rcis
Whenever you buy anything In Portu-
gal. a certain ungalniy copper coin ia
sure 10 be returned In change. and not
KNOWING what to do with u, you say,
Keep the change" with an air Of "A
John Jacob Astor. The truth II. IL II
worth less than half cent. and be-
ing too large 10 put into the pocket, IL
only NJ Tor u paper weight. OF To drive
| nails with.
The paper money II lighter. Of course.
but equally absurd In values: and there
w. mon" danger In handling H.. In this
| l'sh '.rnsith 'lib. Ihe ultty scrip,
which nothing could induce you 10
touch. runs from two mil rcis TO a max.
lmum " 800, Fancy full.proportioned
bank note worth five cents! u takes
twenty bills, each worth 100 mil reiH.
To pay for the carriage In which you
ride from the landing. or railway sta
ton, 10 - hotel II IN long uphill
drive ana the Jehu may turn q few
more honest rciH by plcklnp
np another customer on route
You observe that the breast
Of his checkored linen blouse. which
serves the triple purpose Of coat, vest
and shlr,-buges more and more ns
the journey progresses. until az iis end
he looks like a "bloated bondholdcr. Is
or car"lerHly stufed scarccrow. hnv.
Ing perhaps az much aa two dollars
nnd half In his clothes' one OF these
deceptive Portuguese bills closely 70.
scmblca tho
OLD GREENBAcKs
VI home. and has the satisfying figures
Zoo engraved upon Ito back and sides
and four corners, together with the
high sounding words. "Qulnentos Refs
The feeling OF wealth which the possess
sion Of a Few Ut these produce In tn,
mind OF stranger. ~ speedily dis
PEELED, however, when he finds how lie.
Tie they WI buy. On inquiring tht
/ / price OF living at a hotel, You arc "a,
hrat astoundcd to learn that IL Is soy.
cral hundred thousand rciH per diem,
and are positively frightened when the
laundry bill 10 presented IN six figures
until you come 10 reckon II over lu
Uncle samucla money and realize that
the charge IN very moderate, after all
You arc delighted to note In OpOrto
~ Ia Brazil, tho entire absence Of the
female hat. and anything that remotely
resembles "A ilowcr-dcckcd or feather,
trimmed bonnet Neither are thor,
any tallor-madc women. or bachelor
/ giilH, OF old maid men, or bicycles ui
: automobiles. or other lin de steele In.
vontlons IN this happy kingdom. Will,
the pcnHanta array themselves IN tn
dull blues and reds ana puppies and
ycllows OF nearby Africa, displayed IN
fantastic combination, black appears 1,
be the favuritc color OF the upper
classes, at least FOR street wear Ac-
cording to the universal Latin fashion
whether met Ia Europe, America, oi
tho isles OF the sea, the gowns of tbs
ladies' M up In front to the shoe top,
ana sweep the dirty streets In the rear
| while their WOarcra sauntor gracefully
along the pTomenade but the black
lace mnntilln-lnHt remnant of IN,
Moorish veil Of their anccatorH-vn,
hanees dark-eycd beauty as no modern
hcadgear could do. | am told thai
not always was there such dcarth ol
bOnnela IN Opurtu; II came about VIII
King Ami dco's reign In spain, Whose
extreme unpopulnrlty banlshed every,
thing even remotely French from Ia,
whole lhurian peninsula.
Oporto IL said to De- the clcnncHt cts
In Portugal. and u that " true, hcav,
en- save the dirticat The people az
rule seem 10 have no Idea OF thai
virtue which Is said TO be akin to god
liness. and unnamdhlc denominations u
SIGHT and smell everywhere abound
But Il u a city OF marked contradlc
lions. OF
LIGHTS AND SHADOWS,
riches and poverty. sharply oontrastcd
The Btfccts rise In terraces, directly
from aud parallel with the quay. n
some places appearing to Ovcrhang one
another, crossed at right angles bS
other streets, climbing the hills y,
stncply that few can be traverscd bS
wheeled vehicles, Two or three streets
near the waters edge and those on IN,
summit, are WIDE well bullt up nnt
comparatively Clelni but the heart OF
The old city n composed Of dark and
crooked nlleya, nlthy beyond compare
some Of the houses built on acclivitic'
~ nearly perpendicular that they arr
reached by steps cut Into the rock
BuildingH OF six or more stories, rls
ing close above each other, shut out th'
sky, aud being set back, allow no ven
tllntion. In this pestlferous labyrinth
Il NUa