The times., 1899-12-24

generations marrying and remaining under
the paterual roof, the Portuguese nabob is
rich indeed who spreads his Iares and pen
ates over more than one suite OF apart
mcnls on the same floor.
Passing under the triumpha arch and up
the wide street you come 10 another hand
some square-the Praca do Dom Pedro
primero. IN earlier days the palace Of the
inQuisIton stood here, and those gloomy
prisons from which hundreds OF previously
tortured wretches went forth TO their auto
da-fes. One side of iJ is occupied by the
theatre Of Douna Maria Ian immense
building buf the smallest of seven in this
pleasure loving capital Which is hand
soonest. the Italian opera house the san
Carlos Theatre. or that of Donna Amaiia
is a matter Of fancy. In the foyer OF the
last named splendid theatre stands a cele-
nTated work of art, the ceramic master
piece of Bordallo Pinheiro-a colossal
faience vase named Beethoven" with its
beautiful glazed allegoricaI relief carvings.
One of the largest Pracas dos Torres in
the world disgraces Lisbon, with star per
formers" every day in the year But IN
justice be il said that the Portuguese bull
fight is by no means so brutal as that OF
Spain. or even Cuba and Mexico, on our
side Of the world. Here the poor. bewilder-
ed ball has less chance for himself than
elsewhere, his horns being blunted and
covered: but he is seldom killed or Sc
riously wounded Though the American
spectator longs TO see the professional tor
mentors Of defenceless animals receive the
unishment they deserve, his interest CEN
tres chiefly in the stirring music, the eX-
cited pCpulace filling the enormous amphi-
theatrical galleries Of the arena. and the
beautiful gay-cOlored costumes Of the ban
dillerCs and picadores.
Among the Shops.
Besides the parks above mentioned, the
world-renowned botanical garden and the
splendid terraces Of the Esplanade da Louis
Philippe, there are five smaller public gar
dens. all much frequented by dressed
crowds in the evenings. The dark little
shops of Lisbon, with their scanty dis
play Of poor goods, are not worth a glance
excepting always the goldsmiths shops,
with their queer native ornaments, card
cases. fan sticks, etc, in filigree work; the
curio shops, where rare articles may Oc
casionally be found among world of trash,
and the. pawnshOps. filled 10 overfiowing
with the heirloCms of an impoverished no
bihty. The markets are mere interesting.
with their many varieties of fish and fruits
golden oranges, and luscious grapes, OF
which you may buy more than you can
carry for mil reis. to the value of an Amer
ican nickle; country produce fat beef and
mutton from the DOuIO Valley, and espe-
cially the always picturesque peasantry, il
their characteristic costumes.
The hotels Of Lisbon are poor as. poorest
but so beautifully hospitable are the people
that the stranger with a letter Of introduc-
tion OF with a shadow Of claim upon any
body. is sure of most gracious entertain
ment in private houses. The large Eng
lish colony lives in the elevated district
known as Buenos Aires. while Portuguese
aristocracy are mostly found IN the vi
cinity of the Ajudea Palace the fashion
able suburbs Of Alcantara and Cascaes and
along the sunny hilisides overlooking Tagus
Bay. or course. the capital is the head
quarters of the royal army, and barracks
for the troops and municipal guards are
scattered all over the city. The undersized,
kungry-looking soldiers remind one Of Cuba
in war time, only these are more gorgeOusly
uniformed, If not better fed, than were the
Spanish army in the West. The chief naval
and military aTsenals OF the Kingdom are
also here, and attached 10 the former are q
naval school, not unlike our Annapolis,
photographic office, and q very creditable
museum OF colonial products.
Landmarks of Historic Interest.
Among many historic landmarks which
the visitor in Lisbon. must not omit IS the
ancient Convent Church dos Hierongmos
which contains the magnificent marble
tombs of Camoens, Vasco de Cana, and
the great Portuguese historian Alexandra
Herculano Equally important is the old
Convent Of St. Vincent, high up on hill
overlooking the far-stretching shores of the
Tagus, which has been transformed into a
pantheon Of royal tombs. Then there is
the Quintade Monserrate. where the poet
Byron used TO live, which is now the win
ter home of Lady Cooke. Viseountess de
Montserrat, of London. People on our side
of the Atlantic VIII remember the lady as
Tennie Clafin, formerly Of New York, sis
ter of Victoria Woodruff, both famous
apostles Of female suffrage.
One never wearies of the hilltop views
above LisbOu-the mighty river, running
through a semi-tropic paradise; the state
~ and historic monuments of antiquity
amid endless colonies OF palaces, villas, and
luXuriant gardens. Into the latest royal
palace, with its pinnacles, domes, and ter
races. was Incorporated a fifteenth centu-
y
on Pima Mountain. The Palacio Real, an
other foyal residence, was built by FeTdi-
naud Of Coburg upon the ruins of the an
cient Castillo dos MourOs, "castle of the
dead" The royal palace of Cintra erected
by John ] in the fourteenth century, was
built upon the ruins OF a Moorish castle.
by Mozarabic workmeu, in semi-Moorish
style But among all the remarkable spec
linens Of architecture. ancient and modern,
IN the Portuguese capital, none is a real
Iy greater work than the aqueduct. which
brings water to the city from Bellas vii
lage twelve miles away. 1t is partly con-
ducted under ground, but in the vicinity
OF Lisbon crosses a deep valley, which is
spanued for nearly 600 feet by a bridge Of
thirty arches. The loftiest of which is 240
feet high and 10 feet wide. In the Praca
das Am0eciras is a large reservoir for sup
plying the many fountains of the city with
water. FANNIE b. WARD.
THE NAVY'S LEGAL BRANCH.
4 Senate Resolution Concerning the
Judge Advocates office.
Senator Mcbride Of Oregon recently in