The times., 1899-09-24
PLAN OF 4RAHEf4IN CUBA
1t Is Difficult for Strangers to Get
About the Island.
The Trains Are Slow and Irregular,
the Fares Average About Eight
Cents n Mile, and the Passenger
Coaches Are Piled High With Bag
gnge-No Schedule Time Observed.


something that puzzles most of the visitors
notions regarding the means and modes OF
travel Since more people are coming, in
on these points may be timely.
1t is possible to go from Havana on the
railroad directly west to the town of Pinar
del Rio, distance Of ITO miles. A rail-
road also runs from Havana to Guanajay,
thirty-fve miles out, in the northeastern
part of Pinar del Rio province These two
lines traverse the Vuelta Abajo tobacco re-
gion, and also part Of the Partidos district.
which is in the province of Havana.
Coasting vessels make trips from this
city along the north coast west, touching
at eight or ten fishing villages. From
these villages journeys may be made to
the hills of the interior on horseback. At
some places there is a passable road, but
it is usually short one. On the south
coast of Pinar del Rio there is nothing to
see except keys and swamps. The only
port, which is entered by light -dragnt YES
sells, is Coloma. From it very good mac
adamized highway traverses the fifteen
miles to the town of Pinar del Rio.
The railroad system extends east from
Havana $50 miles. By this road it is pos
sible to visit the coast towns without the
inconvenience of a sea trip, for there are
branch lines running both north and south.
At this season there is not much TO see IN
the interior. Some of the sugar mills are
grinding, but agriculture generally Is re-
cuperating slowly. For the tourists the
most interesting town Is MatanZas, WIN
the hills OF Cumbre and Monserrate, the
valleys OF Yumuri, and San Juan and the
caves of Bellamar, which run out under
the sea.
Railroad travel in Cuba is not luxurious,
yet considering that the distances are
short, it is fairly comfortable. Fares con-
tinue to be very high, averaging seven or
eight cents mile in gold frst-class, and
half as much for third class, with the
second-class midway. Americans naturally
prefer to travel rst-class. The passenger
coaches on some of the lines are relics OF
bygone periods. On others they are mod
ern and adapted to the climate. Every
body smokes without first asking permis-
sion of the women who may be passengers
1t is a custom Of the country and smok-
ing compartment would not be appreci-
ated. Everybody piles his baggage in the
spaces between the seats Or in the aisles.
Often the regular passenger coach might
be mistaken for the baggage car. The
reason for this is that baggage is not
checked free. The charges for carrying IL
are quite heavy. No Limitation is put on
the number of pieces which a passenger is
permitted to carry with him in a passenger
coach. So he usually slows away all his
belongings and perches himself on top hall
a dozen valises. Live luggage is also per-
mitted Chickens travel either first, second
or third class without paying fare. Cen
orally a pair of them are tied together by
the legs and thrown carefessly under the
seat. Sometimes they get free from theiI
fastenings and then there is, lively time
in the car. The story Of the hen which
paid its fare in eggs is not. fiction in
Cuba. That has been known to happen
The railway lines which do not have reg
ular eating houses along the route have q
buffet on the train. 1t is commonly located
in the car given over to thethird- class pas
sengers. A hungry traveller who finds his
way there can have choice Of poor wines
good bread and cold baked fish. There is
also case of graciosos, or pop, with little
fruit. Beer is sold. Cubans who have &C.
casion to travel generally carry their lunch
cons with them. The practice is not a goot
one for American visitors to initiate. Three
Americans who were going on days jour
ney had their hotel proprietor prepare {
luncheon for them. 1t consisted of skinny
chicken, two loaves of bread, and two bot.
ties of cheap wine When they came tn set
tie their hotel bill they found a charge u
$13 for railroad luncheon. Others have hat
similar experiences. 1t is better and cheap
er to go hungry than to have a Havana
hotel keeper prepare a railroad luncheon.
Most of the railroads now run what art
called trans de cargo, or mixed loca
freights. These give an excellent chance t
see the country. A good walker can keep W
with them when they are going at ordinar!
speed. With the stops for switching it i!
possible to take an occasional excursion
into the fields and back again. The loco
motives are always very thirsty, for ever.
other stop appears to be at water tank
At the stations the start is announced b.
the primitive method Of a handbell. A por
ter walks up and down the platform ant
rings the bell two minutes before the tim
for departure. Five or six minutes late
the train pulls out. No train in Cuba il
supposed to start on schedule time. Tn
line out of Havana which has most OF tn
suburban travel has a time schedule on tn
exact hours. No Cuban or Spaniard think
of getting to the station on the hour II
allows himself FIVE minutes, with the Ger
tainty that he will have two or three min
utes to spare The manager OF this roa
was once asked what would happen If b
were to start the trains for three or fou
days in succession at the advertised time
NO passengers was his laconic re
sponse.
One morning at Matanzas an American
had left word with the hotel keeper Il
have a cab to take him to the train whicl
was due from Havana at $3.50. The cal
was ready at 9:15. Just then party o
friends arrived direct from the train witt
reproaches for the failure TO meet them
1t was all the landlords fault. He smil
ingly explained that while the schedule
time of the train was 8 O'Clock 1T neye
arrived until $50. How Ii happened t
get in on time that morning he did no
know. but he was sure the mistake wa
not Intentional. The Cuban railroads ar
passing into the control of American cap
italists, and within a year or two it i
likely that there will be some improve
ment in their management.
For the travellers who want to leave tn
main lines of travel and go into the in
terror there is only one mode of convey
ance This is on horseback, or, If ther
be a party of prospective land buyers,
pack train is easily organized. goo
Cuban horse which travels steadily al
day at the "spudging" gait OF the countr
costs s125 To be outftted after the Gu
ban manner with saddle, boots, sombrero
and other accessories. takes another s125
Thus prepared. it is NOT difficult to ge
over a good stretch Of country in give
| time A guide is a necessity. The roads
according to the maps, are base decep
tions. They are usually designated a
caminos reaIes, or royap Highways Blu
the peasant can travel on them better tha
the king, because frequently even the trai
| is lost, and it is necessary to go by topo
graphical instinct. A Cuban guide is q
| infallible as a hunting hound when h
himself guides the stranger. but when h
attempts to tell the directions which mus
| be followed and indicate the landmarks b
| is at fault.
For those who are not going on pros
pecting Journeys into the country, th
yolante is the most comfortable means c
travel, though it is quite expensive. Tn
| volantes are not seen in Havana now, nc