Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-01-14
Smooth Cloth is One of the Most Popular
Materials.
Imported Dresses Are Cut I'm Princess
Styie-SOme Pretty TOques
and Turbans.


now learned through experience that they
cannot look we'll if they look cold and I'M
comfortable, and the skating costume that
is simply smart in fit and daintiness does
not at all compare with a much simpler
one warm enough to be becoming.
The skating Kinks have given new inn
petus to the sport in making US independ-
ent of the weather, and women who are
now wide awake to the advantages of exer-
else are giving them a steadily growing
patronage.
The costume for outdoor and indoor
skating is practically the same. There
must be the short and well-cut skirt, the
not too loose waist or jacket; there must
be no ruffies. hounCes or frlis of any kind,
and the head-sear ought to be close and
tght-httinS. The picturesque effect is en-
tirely dependent upon the cut and style OF
gown and hat.
The Favorite Material.
Cloth is a favorite material for skat-
ing costumes-the smooth cloths being more
popular than the rough cloths. The Vene-
tan cloth is greatly used, as is also the
satin-t1nished cloths. The skirts are all
cut in the circular shape, very much on
the lines of the bicycle and golf skirts, and
are worn long enough to reach the heels
of the boots, and short enough not to catch
OF today is, of course, quite impossible for
skating wear; not only is it exaggeratedly
long, but it has too much fulness and the
fullness Is not well disposed. The skating
skirt must he cut so that 1t flares at the
bottom, and while it has no ruffies or
hounces on the outside it looks well to
have one or two ruffles inside put an inch
or two above the binding. These ruffies
snow when the Skirt swings as the skater
moves; it is mistake to have too many
pettcoats, to interfere with the motion.
A great many of the skating costumes have
"a narrow band Of haircloth: not the old
1ashloned stiff kind but the very fine
quality now in use. 1t is very piable and
not at all stiff, but has enough BODY to
keep the skirt from tapping in about the
feet.
n smart costume. lust turned out is OF
a snuff-color brown. trimmed with sable
There is a band of the fur just around the
mem OF the skirt-a very narrow band put
on to look like binding. The skirt itself
IS absolutely plain. with the exception of
this band of fur. There is cloth waist to
TINS gown made ON the lines of riding
ha3lt, with short tails in the back 1t is
ught-htting, with just a little opening at
the throat to show n stock chemisette or
linen collar. Linen collars are to be tabooed
however, for they are very apt to make the
neck red and chapped. and the soft stock
Is much better. To wear with this coat
ana sL SKIRT there Is smart little jacket of
the same material. tight-fitting. single
breasted and bound with sable with broad
revers and high f1aring collar of sable: the
cuffs are of the same fur.
Imported Costumes
Some Of the imported skating costumes
are made all in one piece, on the plan of
the princesse gowns. These look attrac-
tive, and if well cut are very becoming,
but they are not always as satisfactory as
the skirt and coat.
smart one is made of one Of the new
shades Of blue broadcloth applique.
Around the foot of the skirt is a broad
nahd OF astrakhan mot the Persian lamb,
but the astrakhan, the uncurled fur. The
upper part of the waist is covered with
bolero jacket of the astrakhan. with
cChs of the same fur. The same gown has
been copied with the jacket in fur put on
separate.
The long, tight-ftting coats look very
smart, and are made of light or dark
cloths There is one in hunters greer
fastening over on the left side with broad
gold buttons; ruftie crossing the front of
the waist ana high standing collar are
also of the green, but faced with sable
Under such coat this there must he an
ehlire costume worn, and this is ant TO
make 1t a little heavy. The skirts Of the
weight. '4-O
very smart gown is made of light
weight green cloth-the skirt quite short
ana perfectly plain, the waist tieht-fitting
a
iohs redlngote or pOlonaise of the same
material, the skirts unlined bur the body
or the coat lined with silk and interIined
with 1eIt The coat has large revers, faced
win 1ur and fastened at the left side. 1t
Is very smart costume, and one that is
extremely becoming, but expert skaters
say that 1t Is not very comfortable.
one OF the great eXtravagancies of the
age is the entire fur gown, but 1t has so
many points in Its favor mat people who
can afford 1t feel that they are not extray-
agant in investing in it. 1t is most attrac-
I'VE, and has the great advantage of being
nSht and at the same time warm. This
style of costume is made up in sable mink
and Persian lamb, and costs anywhere from
five hundred t, a thousand dollars-indeed.
very few can be bought as cheap as five
hundred dollars. The skirt is on the cir
cular plan, quite narrow, and made ejthar
of the fur entirely or with a band of velvet
around the bottom and the fur coming
down in points over the velvet. The Jacket
Is short, sometimes in EtOn jacket shane,
double breasted, and finished in front with
large revers. The sleeves are small ard
the general effect of the gown is neat and
trim. 1t must be worn with an inside
blouse, of either flannel, velvet or silk. 1t
would be impossible to wear a fitted and
boned cloth waist underneath.
Coats, Toques and Turbans,
The short fur coats worn with cloth
skirts are exceedingly smart for skating
anu al e very tActlIeHl garments. This year
Persian lamb is worn more than seal-skiu
The coats are almost all made on the same
model, with fitted back, a round basuue
piece at the back, in front loose with very
wide revers of some contrasting fur, and
made SO that the fronts can be Tapped over
and buttoned in a le-breasted effect
With this jacket is generally worn belt
OF silk or velvet with a buckle in the back
Some exceedir gly handsome and very
smart Persian lamb coats are made three
quarter length, half fitting, and not trim
med. The very finest skins are used, end
they are as pliable as MORE silk which
they closely resemble, but it is doubtful If
such coats as these will stand many sea-
sons of skating-the Persian lamb, or even
the astrakhan tightly curled, is far more
serviceabie for a skating coat
A band of fur on the bottom of cloth
skirt adds 81 eatly to the effect, but it must
be narrow band. and looks smarter II put
on as binding.
Fur toqueS and turbans are of course the
smartest things possible for skating. They
must be of fur matching the costume, or
else of velvet the same color or in sharp
contrast and bound with the fur to match
that on the gown. A dark red velvet hat
with a band of mink looks very we'll with
do RI ,g,,I,