The daily chieftain. [volume] (Vinita, Ind. Ter. [Okla.]) 1898-1902, 1899-08-21
FALL STYLES In HATS.


About the most elegant hat at the
present date is the small Rembrandt al
most entirely concealed beneath a.
wealth of ostrich plumes. These ~
which are chosen of different lengths,
< from the tip to the amazon, as occasion
seryes-are so arranged as TO cover the
crown and the brim and to leave hard
ly any Of the foundation visible. Palest
sky and torquoise blue and clematis-
mauve feathers are most in vogue, eth
er mounted on straw shapes TO match
or on white. Some equally elegant
toques are decorated with two anna
IONS fastened at the back SO as to pass
around each side, the curly tips meet
ing in front in light pouf. A toque so
trimmed with two pale-blue feathers is
made of haircloth woven of white and
blue. 1t is turned up on the left side,
where it rests on a half coronet OF yell
! low roses. The same arrangement in
mauve, with a coronet of forget-me-
nots, is equally admirable.
Black-plumed hats are also begin
! ming to put in an appearance, and bid
fair to be very fashionable this autumn.
Their elegance and novelty chiefly de-
pend on the way in which the feathers
are set in. Very autumnal looking also
are the hats in deep yellow straws,
trimmed with late fruits and berries.
Different forms may be trimmed in this
way, the directoire capeline and the
.x-;do eo;Ior ba;1u ,,,Oet c,,ifahla The
crowns are often bound around with
narrow ribbon velvet, black, claret, ma
room or green, and if the straw is an
openwork, one of still narrower velvet
will be threaded in and out of its
meshes. The punches of fruit-grapes,
blackberries, medlars, elderberries or
nuts-arranged with their own foli-
age, rest on the brim. A pouf of some
contrasting color is generally added.
This is sometimes made in the form of
circular rosette, with bunch of
poppy stamens in the middle.
Toques, whether of tulle or straw,
are now turned up in front or more de-
cidedly so on the left side, the latter ar
rangement being almost invariably
chosen when flowers are used for trim
ming. These are arranged in large
cluster covering the whole of the por-
ton of the turned-up brim, which rises
rather, higher than the crown. Me-
dium-sized blossoms-half-open roses,
ox-eyed daisies, poppies, corn flowers,
and for the early autumn asters and
small dahlias-are most appropriate to
the purpose.
For trimming hats, on the contrary,
large blossoms are preferred. A sud
den furore for the grandifora clematis
has been evinced. The particular shades
of mauye and lilac natural to it are the
fayorites in these colors, and havehelped
to bring them into fashion. 1t is con-
sidered extravagant to decorate hat
with five or six clematis blooms, each
measuring four inches or more across.
Sometimes they are chosen all OF one
shade, but the nzost effective arrange
msnts are in graduated shades OF mauve
and lilac, or mauve, lilac and white. 9th
er goodly sized blossoms that some mil
liners are affecting are the arum and
Japanese lilies. The first is shown in
white and yellow, sometimes with a
black pistil, or in black and yellow
pistil; the second is white only. The
most approved method of arranging
them is to lay them along the edge OF
the brim,
None of these flowers is mounted
with its own foliage. Iris leaves knot
ted into bows or otherwise, after the
manner of ribbons or else in the form Of
couteaux, come in nicely as an ad-
dition to such decoration. If these
leaves are considered too dark, rib
bons are substituted.-Mil Millinery Trade
Review