The times., 1899-04-09
DRINKS OCEANS OF TEA.
The beverage Costly in Russia, But
All Natives Require 1t.
(From the Anglo-Russian.)


Among the few things for which Russia
deservedly enjoys a creditable and univer-
sal reputation Russian tea doubtless oc-
cupies prominent place. both on account
of its quality and mode of preparation and
consumption. In the first place. there is
no such thing as Russian tea in the literal
sense of the word. 1t is entirely an article
imported from China. which country will
probably continue for a long time to be
the chief source of tea supply for the Rus
sian market. Tea in Russia is very dear,
but this is due to the heavy expenses OF
transport and custom duties. The Rus
SLAMS drink enormous quantities of tea,
sufficient to frighten any Englishman.
The poor people-and, alasi the Russian
people are the poorest in existsnee-use
the so-calIed brick" tea. This is the
cheapest sort, being mixed with the stems,
and compressed by some adhesive gum
into dry cakes of various sizes. resembling
in its appearance plug" tobacco. This
tea, which would probably prove poison
Gus to anyone else. is consumed by the
Russian workingman at the average rate
of about twenty stakans Tor tumbler5) a
day; the Russian stakan being quite equal
to five of the little thimbies of cups used
| in England at afternoon teas. Indeed, a
Russian won't be satisfied until "sedmoi
pot proshibyot." or "the seventh perspira-
ton breaks out" according to the popular
saying. Taking into consideration that
black. sour or bitter, brick-like bread, raw
onions, garlic, dried leather-like fish, and
strongly salted herring are usually the
chief articles of food of the people at large.
one must not wonder at the enormous
quantity of hot tea needed to still. a Rus
| slams thirst and help on his digestion.
The inferior sort of tea is, besides. very
cheap, but, of course, it is not the brick
tea as used by the poor moujik that enjoys
a worldwide reputation, but that in use
among the middle and upper classes. In
such households tea at the price OF 5s. or
IS per pound t090 of the English pound
ayordupois) is quite an ordinary thing
while in weather. families los. to 12s per
pound is frequently paid. There are choice
sorts of teas which are sold even at 90
rubles per pound. but of these only a few
leaves are used to add an extra delicious
aroma to the ordinary tea. Thus the high
| quality of the tea itself, brought overland
and most carefully packed. is the chief rea-
son of its superiority over the teas In use
in Western Europe.
But apart from the tea itself. the Rus
| sian method of preparing it goes a long
way to contribute to the fine taste of the
| beverage. In this process the famous
| "samovar' plays the principal part, and a
word ur two of explanation will not be
| dtfllss. Inc tne ulenSil used
only for boiling the water. They are
| usually made of brass copper. but there
are also silver samovars. the inside being
| lined with another metal In the middle
| there is kind OF chimney or fire recepta-
| Gle around which fresh cold water is pour
| ed into the samovar Burning charcoal or
wood is thrown into the chimney and it
usually takes about n quarter of an hour
| before the water begins to boil. this being
| announced by a volume of steam from un-
der the cover. Then the boiling water is
poured upon the tea in the pot, and the
latter placed on the top of the samovar to
keep warm. as tea coseys are unknown in
Russia. The infusion is made very strong.
| but only about fifth or quarter of a glass
| is filled with 1t, the rest being filled up
with the boiling water. a slice of lemon
| or milk is added according to taste, and
sugar is put into the glass, or used "v
prikusku."
There is no respectable" household in
| Russia without one or more samoYars The
| utensil is turned out by the million Tula.
the Russian Sheffield. is particularly fa-
nous for the production OF this article
The samovar is in use three or four times
| a day; in some houses, indeed, it is kept
boiling the whole day long The samovar
may be really termed the Russian hearth
and fireside. Around 1t the family and
guests assemble, drinking tea and chatting
for hours. Its steaming and cheerful hum
ming are as music to the Russian ear, ac-
customed as it is to the sound from ear
liest childhood. Even when leaving their
native soil for far-distant lands when lug
gage has to be reduced to a minimum, the
| Indispensable samovar is rarely left be-
| hind, and in the new countries of their
adoption 1t forms frequently q melan-
| choly link with the past.