The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1899-11-08
HOW TO COVER TOQUES.


LFrom the Millinery Trade Review
Variety is often attained for tOques
and small hats by the manner of ar
ranging the material with which the
shane is covered, be this velvet or piece
felt or a combination of the two and
is best explained by descriptions of the
most typical among the latest models.
our general remark applies to a whole
class: the covering is in one piece, say
a square or a circle cut out of a square
measuring at least double the diameter
of the brim. A sailor shape is covered
as follows with national blue velvet:
One point is placed at the back so that
the velvet lies fiat on the brim of the
back and sides. The center of the
square is then folded so as to form two
wing-shaped flutes jutting out on either
side of the crown; the three corners re
naming provide the loops and cross
piece of a large bow for the front The
trimming proper consists of four wings
made of green lOphOphOre feathers, two
of which are placed beneath the wing
shaped flutes and one behind each loop
of the bow. For a tOQue turned up at
the side a circular piece of castor vel
vet is chosen The center of this is
placed over the low crown, mOlding it
closely; groups of narrow tuckS have
previously been stitched in the velvet
so as to radiate from the base of the
crown nearly to the edge of the brim ;
other groups of trucks-set double as
closely together and running in the
same directiOn-begin about five inches
of the velvet to the under side Of the
brim, the plain interval forming a loose
bOuillOnne over the edge. One pale blue
wing is placed in the left side against
the crown. and a second against the up
turned side of the brim, and a little be-
low 1t a small pOuf of liberty to match.
Another way of covering tOques is to
gather d circular piece of material half
way round its outer edge and draw it
up nearly to the size of the opening OF
the crown, to which it is tackled, and to
leave the remainder to be pleated in a
large double box pleat; the box pleat
| comes on the left side exactly, or just
| over the left brow. Once this is &C
( complished, the covering may be left
as it is in a loose sort of beret (When
| this is the case a smaller circle of ma
terial IS reqUired), or pleated or fiuted
! more or less so as to adapt itself tc
| the form underneath.
| The former style is chosen for a tOQue
| of pale beige angOra felt, trimmed with
mounts made of the head and tail wings
| of the tawny owl set among the folds
/ of the box pleat; the latter for an ele-
CANT tOQue OF dahlia-cOve-ed velvet
Three folds are formed in the velvet
! so as to give the effect of a. triple Dor
l der to the brim, save where the boz
/ pleat rises in a high crest resting on &
/ pOuf of mauve satin. The whole is sur
! mounted by three double dahliaS il
! three shades, running from mauve Il
! purple, fixed to the crown behind tn,
! pleat.
/ A piece of navy blue felt. the GOVERNS
! of another toque, is arranged in straigh
| flutes lying on the brim, while tht
/ pleated portion of the material slant!
/ back over the crown, and in the cente
/ of the low pOuf so formed IS placed
small palette feathers surrounding TIT
{ head Of a bird.