The times., 1899-11-05

effort OF the spaugIe 10 man .ai4 lis p Odd
position Of popularity must be re % Lel,
for some women there are wEo buy robes
or net stiHed with bis blac6 sequ.ns Il at
show every. one in It's GENRE small pearl
or a rhinestone bead; but these are no
thrifty investments. such. for example. as
are the chenille dotted ia5e5 ne S. and
silks. Truthfuuy speaking, that chenille
dot IS everywhere. and most frequently il
is black OF medium size and strewu on TIE
deep Killed founces Of bright gre-n and
blue taffsJa silk uuder-perticOats. on tn
siilen tresses Of long, Gel cate toEel
fringes of varying sizes OF dot outline, like
the stars on an astronomical map. thu de-
sign OF the cream and cheese yellow laoes.
in imitation Of the chenille dot tufts Of
fur, large as q quaiTs eggs appear in
rather peculiar contrast upon chiffon ana
The heavier lace robes. but the tTiamph o.
extravaganza and sartoriaI whim so5ieLy
has been reached with the lace dresses on
which apphques of broched six are made.
Just about one woman IN five hundred
appears TO have screwed her courage up 10
The point Of purchasing and wearing q
sion must be made that the loveliest figure
is utterly lost and forgotten when sTaJaei
in one of these bedgOHu shaped affairs
Coats that clip the figure c-osa and let fail
The shortest OF tails certainly have no rea-
son 10 fear any rivalry on the part of the
baggy sisterhoOd, and yet a certain per
Ceutage of box coats are worn They ap-
pear 10 the utmost advantage and vi h the
smarucst effect when cut from ma X ntosh
cloth and worn on rainy days, and the ma
jority Of them depend on stitched strap
pings for ornameutation.
Velvet coats have been sadly Oyerdone
these past few seasons. and are in conse-
quence rather under the ban OF disap-
pr0val, though a few good and pretty ones
have made their appearance with vests CT
bTosdJail, Persian lamb, or satin hand
somely embroidered. Nest interesting and
admired. however, Of all the walking wraps
is a close buttoned short cOatee OF that
bright black satln-faced French BE ton
the tailors love, and this, built double
breasted with a spade front, is for the au-
tumn Of 80 the acme Of good taste-
There are al least a dozen varieties OF
silk alone manufactured purely for the
fancy waist trade; taffetss in pastel tones
tanetas 6otted with chenille, tucked taffeta,
stitched silk and silk that is herring boned,
embroidered in bouquets. treated with hem
1iful velours panne and taffeJa soutache.
This last on The list comes in two OF the
newest eolOrs, sovereign yellow and garter
blue. and over these two softly bright sur
faces runs an intricate pattern worked out
II q silk sOutache braid that is not heavier
than white parcel cord, and which is
stitched firmly 10 the silk.
AT this very instant there is no newer
thing for a smart theatre body than taf-
feJa stinened with a web of machine stitch
ing, and 10 trim with bands Of black velvet
bebe ribbon is favorite dressmaling
scheme The ribbon is often and most ef-
fectively run through bordering bands of
ecru Russian lace or is threaded through
iEe edges of lace points and collars
Another oft initiated model is that Of q
dark blue. or green taheta bolero body
shaped away widely upon the bust TO show
open vest collar and cuffs OF white velvet
dOJJed with blue or green while from the
chin 10 the waist line fails q torrent OF
delicate time-Iinted lace A narrow strip
Of heavily stitched taffeta is by all odds
The choicest medium for a girdie at this
moment. when satin and velvet crushed
belts are out Of feminine couutenarce.
The best foot foremost as this goes to
press shows q buttoEed or laced round toed
shoe Of patent leather treated with stitched
down straps Of black satin-faced yestiEs.
IL is the Partisan novelty. becoming ia
millar sight. a very taking little laced
shoe put forth for walking is made Of fine
duh finished dcngOla, its toe tip is Of black
vanished canvas and where the edge OF
the toe cap and the dougola leather meet q
strap OF patent leather Is stitched on thus
producing a very quiet bat most ornameu-
tai shoe. Big fiat roseJtzs Of ribbon in two
colOrs are gaining fashionable ground OIL
slipper toes, but wave Of good sense in
shoe shaping having only momeutarily pos
sessed the feminine mind We are now suf-
fCriug sharp reaction even 10 the high
heelad arrow-toed French form
Happily, this year, when furs have
reached an extreme Of Costliness that ?, u
ders them Unapproachoble by any save the
truly wealthy women. velvet muffs are
considered OF modish superiority TO thoss
Il fur. Through their quaint originality
Of shape and decoration they have made a
strong appeal 10 patronage, and with th II
handsome calling or theatre gowns the
women are carrying tiny. oddly shaped,
Freuchy mauchOns Of gay coral cOlOred
velvet. encyUsted with lace lined with
rucked taGeta, and showing a cluster OF
pale gray ostrich tips, In ye-vst knot Oh
the upper side. These, OF course, are as
purely ornamental I'm object as a Co-sage
bouquet, but thoroughly serviceab.e as
well as decorative, are the parma violet
tortoise shell brown, and bronze green yei-
vet mufIs, IN large. fiat, granny, pillow, OF
Corkscrew shape. These have for their
substance a roll Of pure wool batting laid
between an outside covering Of velvet and
su inside lining Of some handsome bro
cade Chenille fringe. a broad liberty
satin scarf tied round the middle through
& buckle of bTilliauts, else a wresth.ng OF
ostrich plumage, lends the proper air OF
gayety and elegance 10 these ecouomic
compromise. that, nevertheless, are en-
Irely adequate 70 Wintry needs.
There is less expensive oTnamentation
aud a greater degree Of genuine good taste
displayed by mothers I'm the choice OF their
children's street clothes than We have
seen in a long time. This has been espe-
cially noticed with regard 10 small boys
who are wearing blouse suits OF dark serge.
10 blue and brown vests and sailor col
lars. stitched for decoration. Knee long
coats 81 sand brown covering. with leg
gins 10 match. and German fatigue cap
o. the same goods. are significant OF the
smart little boy on The street The coat
Of covert is also plainly stitched with
brown silk. and the wide collar Of the
blouse body be wears is iuvariaby thrown
outside over the shoulders Of his warm
TOP coat
Spinning Wheel Fad.