Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1899-12-23
pEsERET EVENING NEWS. SATURDAY, DECEMBER 49, 1888.

DESEKEI II Y LN 4
covered, or a flint or stone implement;
but smiths FORCES, clinkers ana scraps
OF RUsTED IRON.
speak unmlstakably OF the iron age.
Mil stones scattered about. tell that
mlllers ground their corn on the hill
top: wOmen's and children's orna-
ments, IN blue and green glass. reveal
Phoenican traffic; and fragments OF
oil and water ars-smooth, unglazed,
porous pottery--remaind Of the early
Romans. But the forgotten people who
lived here in the morning twilight Of
time we're not Romans, as the character
OF their architecture shows, which Is
rather Of the type which Roman writ
ers call Oppidum and describe as be-
longing 10 the aboriginal tribes OF
Western Europe Not single In
scription appears but there is consid-
cradle carving. neither Runlc nor Chris
tian. An enormous granite slab. crown
ing the very summit of the HILL Is COW
cred with strange, Christian trac-
cry and evidently figured In some re-
llgious rite. The Roman historian,
valerius Maximus, speaks OF Citania,
which he says Is on q mountain-top In
LusitanIa, and praises the bravery OF
its people. and most European anti
quarians are agreed that the site OF
the long-lost city Is this hill OF Sac
RomaO. in northern Portugal.
From Braga to the Portuguese capi-
tal--two- thirds OF the distance down
this long and narrow kingdom. is q
railway Journey Of about 250 miles; and
a very delightful one, though the SER
vice Is primitive and the trains creep
az an average rate OF twelve miles an
hour Poor, sleepy old Portugal is Inn
minently the
TOURISTS PARADISE.
not only in scenic beauty and numerous
points Of historic interest, but In nov
city and extreme Qauintness. While
the beaten routes OF European travel
have become tediously familiar. this
odd little country which seems to have
been standing motlonless two thousand
years. is replete with the charms OF
antiquity, and almost unknown 10 the
world at large. Because OF its contour
Portugal has been compared to q
ribbon, stretched between the Spanish
border and the Atlantic-a green and
crumpled ribbon, by reason OF many
mountain chains. all trending diagonal
~ across the country. with fertile val
leys between them Starting at Braga,
near the Spanish frontier Of Mimic
province. the Royal railway runs al
most due south TO the royal city: for
long way in sight Of the sea, thence
farther inland at the feet Of the noun
tains, to the junction at Entro-Camino
where II joins company with the Tagus
river. 0porto Is only thirty miles
southwest from BrGga but IL takes
three hours TO accomplish the journey.
Midway between Is Gulmaraens, the
oldest city OF purely Portuguese origin
in the kingdom; and II not pressed for
time, you will do we'll to stop there Il
day or two. II is a most delightful
town, full Of rarely picturesque bits"
for an artist-old Azimel windows, tell
Ing OF Moorish influences; narrow al
leys with the caves OF opposite houses
nearly touching overhead; queerly
carved doorways: and streets vistas
terminating In glorious views Of the
mountain-side,
W l. 4
with the bloom Of orchards green In
places with rye and clover fields, gray
in others with granite boulders, here
and there rills and rivulets tumbling
down In foaming cascades. High roads
lead off in all directions through lovely
scenery, to interesting towns and vii
lagos. In one Of the latter you will
find the celebrated Caldas das Taipas,
or remains Of ancient Roman baths,
which are still much freQuented by
modern Portuguese. In the nth century,
you remember, the Leonese monarch
sent his viceroy. Count Henry OF Bur-
gundy, TO rule in Portugal; and II was
at Guimaraens that he set up his vice.
regal court. Here the counts son, AL
fonso Henricuez the trtue founder Of
the Portuguese monarchy. was born. and
you may visit the chapel In which he
was christened Here HIS youth was
spent; in the wild country around Gui-
maraens he learned the art Of war and
in his early teens" became a trusted
leader Of troops In the yearly forays
against Moor and Spaniard. Here the
first great Christian fortress was built,
a noble monument Of the earliest king.
II is very simple In structure-a thick
wall, heavily battlemented, set al each
angle with currents, surrounding a