The Republican journal., 1899-12-21
From Braga to Lisbon.

special Correspondence of The Journall
II to Oporto, the archiepiscopal city of
nigga is the most important in northern
frtugal, and it certainly occupies the
toost beautiful situation Its elevated
Valley of well titled farms is surrounded
Ny ranges of bare mountains, piled peak
aooye peak-rosy gray where the sunlight
bJ,hes them, purple where cloud shadows
al, and fading in far off, airy perspective
Se the unsubstantiai vapor wreaths of
.ry dawn. Four miles beyond Braga,
,ui two thousand feet above it. rises the
Itl of Bon Jesus, one of the most holy
ICES in the peninsula, which is thronged
ing the summer with religious people
IA all parts of Spain and Portugal.
Near the summit is a church in which
my miracles are believed to have been
tormed, and close by it a great cara
Hsrrai, built for the accommodation of
rims. This queer inn, which is also
pronounced Hay soos), is one Of the
best to be found in southern Europe:
.etore sophisticated travellers drive
light to it from the Braga station.
Horing the several hostelIies of the town.
egraphng ahead to the lately establish
lompaahjo la ] -jacao, which greatly
itates travel in Mimic province by
4shing vehicles in remotest parts at a
Hent notice, you may secure an open
eton, or roomy, covered caleche, ac-
ding to the weather. Then up you go,
ATrh a clatter of hoofs and cracking of
Fps, along a steep and winding road, at
ST under enormous oaks that seem to be
e. king hands overhead A series of en-
ucing views are unfolded, every turn
Vealing new panOrama-of groves and
tTens, orchards and vineyards: cottages
rgrown with wistaria vines and Banhs-
.u roses; pine clad hills, rich in endless
armonies of subdued greens, from sun
gray greens of the common pine to
Ore indigo green shadows cast bq the
vier foliaged stone pine mounting
above hill, to the mountains whose
ldy tops are merged in the horizon.
he great twostory, barrack- like inn
ks comfortless enough, but is crammed
h guests, religious and irreligious. at
seasons Of the year. Immense rooms.
nick with narrow cots, like the wards
a hospital; white washed walls and
petess floors; no fires Except for
king) even in the depth OF winter
Is Of cabbage soup and frying fish;
and tleas galore; frowsy, bare footed
ads, walters the reverse of the custom
adjective, "bustling, and a sleepy
iuetor, with plenty OF customers, who
not straw whether you go Or stay
-Aese are the characteristics that i'm
.~s you first in Good Jesus hotel. But
far better than the average Portu-
se inn. and by payment of triple prices
Aaps you may secure one Of the smaller
nus SONS. The beds aIe Of husk. hard
he rocky hillside, and the dumping
lie pillows remind you of the Scottish
"a who, when on cattle stealing ex-
ton with his clan. bivouacking in
storm, found his son sleeping with
He'd snow ball under his head for
w, and kicked it Indignantly away.
caring that no son of his should in
-e II such etfeminate luxury.
20 Portugal, where everything French
lated, you must not say taJle T. Aote,
speak of the same thing as mesa ro-
10 {round table,, though in form the
nal board is long and narrow No
tier what hour You arrive at Bon Jesus
W dinner will be served in five minutes
one end OF the table. You may amuse
nselt, if you like, with "ordering'
the voluminous menu; but if you
gnate twenty different dinners on as
Y different days, the result will be
tisely the same each time, with posi-
not an article you have mentioned
greatest delicacy and triumph of the
tuguese cuisine is bncaLhda (codfish),
-ch is costlier than turkey, game, or
best of beef. The natives prefer it
w, cut into inch wide strips that look
bits of red pine; they also broil it,
Potomac shad, make it into sort of
81 stew, or mince and fry it in balls
avs with a too plentiful com bination of
and garlic. Among other favorite
shes, bequeathed by the Moors and Sar-
.ans, is dessert, known as re6ahddoS,
thick slices of wheaton bread, soaked
milk, fried in olive oil and then thickly
,ead with honey. The sticky, dyspep-
promoting compound bears a distant
relationship to what we call ''French
toast, " and you meet with it everywhere
among the nomad tribes between Arabia
da Morocco, under the name of robanat.
At any Portuguese inn you need not give
au order concerning a morning call, be-
aase the tone of the voice in which the
rernal economy of tie household is con
lcted banishes slumber long before day
-lt 1t is well to arise with the sun at
% Jesus, in order to Seat the morning
in the picturesque language of the
al G