The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1899-12-17

for waists and fancy bodices, while sum-
rner silks are utilized for extra waists for
wear with dark skirts.
A prettier fabric than the crepe meteor
or satin crepe, 1t woAld be difficult to
find; 1t comes in exquisite tintings-is soft
and cllnging and the Subdued satiny
lGster makes it most becoming and eff
fective A black gown of this kind has
a full knife plating Of black silk set en-
the under lining over this is fine plait-
ing Of crepe finished about the edge with
a full but narrow luching. The drapery
falls to within a few inches of the hem
and is finished by a deep silk and chenille
fringe, The bodice is low-cut and Dor
dered about the shoulders by jetted lace
flounce over chiffon; there are no sleeves,
the letted lace being caught into a close
knot as 1t crosses the arm. The rest Of
the nodice is soft plaits, which are drawn
tightly into a narrow girdle of jet. A
guimpe of black net Tithsfiny jet beads
is arranged for weaf whh this bodice
when low neck and 4horEsleeve effects
ere not desired.
A clever gown for AFTERNOON wear is of
cream nuns yelling with lcream lace fig
ures inserted and hemmed with narrow
ribbons Of the same hue.a Many summer
gowns may thus be GfiA7eds with good
effect for house and afeeNn6on wear dur
ing the winter
STYLE IN sKf4Ts
Many skirts are almost covered with
stitched bands of the material piped with
satin, and these bands occasionally form
a latticework round the skirt either at
the hem or at the waist. The braiding on
many of these gowns is truly wonderful,
interblended with sable, generally en-
ployed as panels and as bordering to
the revers or roqnl cape trimming on
the bodice, much of the beauty of the
dress depending on the cravat and tie
in some delicate tone of chiffon. Many
of the new dresses are of some shade Of
gray, and cloth is frequently trimmed
about the body with gray chiffon &C
centuated by chinchilla. A gray satin
yelled with chiffon, covered with pail
lettcs, forming an embroidery of silver
flowers is quite a new style of dinner
gown.
The majority of the sleeves fall over
the hand, and often are Tired inside with
fur, and have a bouillonne Of chiffon be-
low; but there are others that have a
turned-back cuff and end just at the
wrist On the shoulders they are corded,
pleated and gathered, the drummer-boy
epaulette being one of the new kinds.
Elbow sleeves are far more fashionable
for demi-toilette than long ones; they
end at the crease of the elbow inside, and
droop many inches below Inc elbow on
the outside of the arm, an effect produced
by lace ruffles
ANY morscl of old point is turned to
account as points on the high collars,
whether made In chiffon or silk. The
old fashioned collars Of our grandmOthers
are worn in their entirety, and all these
should be lined with chiffon. Many OF
the sleeves fro mthe elbow to the wrist
supplement elbow silk sleeves made of
pieces of lace These are sometimes
transparent, but generally made up over
satin. Any old Irish lace is appreciated,
and a good deal of it is considered bet
ter than the modern, but modern Irish
lace is certainly as fashionable IS any
kind there is. The happy possessors Of
old Chantilly, the groundwork of which
has persisted, are appliqueing the sprays
on to muslin and chiffon, especially for
sleeves and for yokes. and such pieces
are useful for the crowns Of tulle or
chiffon hats