The times., 1899-12-17
soc for Any 81 Fan.

of the Scottish laird who, when on a cattle
stealing expedition with his clan. bivouack-
ing in a snowstoTm. found his son sleeping
with rolled SNOWFALL under his head for
pillow, and kicked it Indignantly away,
swearing that no son of his should indulge
in such effeminate luxury
In Portugal, where everything French is
hated, you must not say table d'hote, but
speak Of the same thing as mesa rodondo
(rOund table,, though in form the literal
board is long and narrow No matter
what hour you arrive at Bon Jesus, your
dinner VIII be served in five minutes at
one end Of the lengthy table. You may
amuse yourself. ii you like with ordering
from the yolumirOus menu but If you des-
iguate twenty different dinners on as many
different days the result win be precisely
the same each time. with possibly not an
article you have mentioned. The greatest
! delicacy and triumph of the Portuguese cui-
sine is bacalhau (cOdhsh), which is costlier
/ than turkey, game, or the best of beef. The
| natives prefer il raw. cut into inch-Wide
{ strips that look like bits Of red pine They
/ also broil it, like Portuguese shad, make il
! into SORT Of Irish stew, or miuce and fry
/ iL in balls-always with too-plentiful com
/ bination of oil and garlic Among other ia
rorite dishes, bequeathed by the Moors and
/ Saracens, is a dessert. known as rebauadas
! thick slices of wheaton bread soaked in
milk. fried in olive oil, and then thickly
( spread with honey. The sticky,
] dyspepsia promoting compound bears a dis
, tant relationship 10 what We call French
( toast, and you meet with il everywhere
among the uomad tribes between Arabia
and Morocco under the name of rabanat,
Morning Calls UnneceSsary.
IN any Portuguese inn you need not give
an order concerning a morning call, be-
case the tone Of voice in which the internal
economy Of the household is conducted
banishes slumbcr long before daylight. It
is well 10 arise with the sun at Bon Jesus,
in order to eat the morning air in the
picturesque language of the country, and
also 10 enjoy the magnificent prospect from
the balconies of the building. To the west
ward. almost beneath your feet, lies Braga,
encamped between grey and purple noun
tains The sun glints obliquely OF the red,
green, and yellow walls of the old town,
bringing ont in bold relief the brown tow
ers OF the great cathedral and the quaint
square turrets OF its medieval castle.
Far to the eastward lies the strange city
CT Guimaraens. with the Falperra range
! between Look closely and if the day is
clear, you may see a white speck on an
outlying spur of the mountains, eight OF
ten miles of. as the crow flies. II is the
sacred chapel of sac Romao-a calvary tc
which. or certain day OF the year thou
sands OF pilgrims ascend, making the last
stage OF the journey on their knees Ii 4:
, not the comparatively modern chapel that
most interests the stranger bur that puz-
ze Of antiquity. the city OF Citania, whose
ruins occupy the same emtnence. The nil
itself is treeless, rising sharply and alone
amid rich c0fudelds and vineyards watereC
2 by the Este River. On its summit, nearij
a thousand feet above the plain, is mesa
perhaps 300 yards across. All this leve
space, and some distance down the steer
5 incline is covered with mysterious ruins
p stone flooring. street pavings, and housr
walls, solidly built. The singular thinl
about it is that while most Of the house
9 were complete circles, every tenth build
> ing was square, and Of larger dimensions
, all set so close together that the dividing
b walls must have not been more than tire
p 4 inches apart.
= The inference is that In some prehis
o toric time this must have been place o
e ( refuge in time Of danger for the pastora
Z people Of the valley. Not a single weapon
G Of any kind has been discovered. or a fin
S o. stone implement; but smiths forgets
. clinEers. and scraps OF rusted iron speal
u Enthusiastically CT ne Iron Age. Mii!-stenei