Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1899-03-04

This tail end OF creation. II II In the
very heart Of South Paraguay. about
seventy miles north Of the upper Para
ma river and ibe miles away from the
town ~ Asuncion. Vast pastures
.urrount It. for It is right out on the
sralric and great droves Of cattle gath
ar about the station and grnzc In the
town. The place has NIL told not more
than atty inhabitants. II has half
dofen low huts made Of woven poles
elinkcd In with mud and rooted with
sfay thatch. The railroad depot IL
about fifteen foot square. and the only
hotel ~ made of mud and poles and
foofcd with corrugated iron.
the PiGMy PILLOWS OF PiItAMo.
In this hotel have stopped over
rirh, slccninR IN room with four
other travellers. but, thank fortune.
having a bod to myself. Aud such a
bcd' II was Of the kind most common
In Paraguay II was canvas cot upon
sifelchcrH. with a pigmy pillow no
small that I feared It might get into
my ear and 20 hard that II almost
mates were German cattle buyer.
paraguayan gaucho and AIR. William
Harrison. the resident agent Of one OF
our life Insurance companies. The
German courhod all nlrht, the Para
guayun nnorcd like a FOG horn. and
Harrison a, intervals cleared his throat
and denounced the others for keeping
him awake. II was indeed a rca,iul
night
And stlii II was good hotel for Pa
faguay. The meals were cooked by "a
young Italian who looked like a butch
or and who made me think Of a alaugh-
Ter house. iio irottcd about ln his pafc
foct and waited ON the table with his
sleeves rolled up to his elbows our
diunor connlriod OF good vegetable
soup followed hy puohoro or boiled
beef. ntcwcd chicken ana rice. kidney
sautc and peanut candy for desert.
Wine Nas furnished free with the din
ncr. We had frcah bread but no but
tor. Tho dishes were brought on IN
courses. and we Ind both table cloth
and napkins. our breakfast was mere
" black coffee aud dry bread, to which
added a couple OF oranges
\ COUNTRY sToItE IN PARAGUAY.
our Italian landlord was also "a store
keeper. Every little hotel away from
the cities has a store In it.and this store
Will give some idea how things are sold
IN the backwoods OF south America.
The store room was pcrhapn twenty
lsut square. II was walled with
shelves, nllod with the goods most w
demand among Pnragunyana. There
were cottons from England. These
form the staple clothes OF the country.
Tho men often wear white pants ana
shirts, the women wear white muslin
skirts and nhawls, and tho Paraguay.
ans arr. IN fact. a nation In white.
one section of this store was devoted
90 groceries. and In II were shelves OF
fardlnc boxsH. canned meats und bot.
ileu containing mustard. blttcru AMI
liquors. on the floor In one corner
stood two barrels. with dripping Hpl-
rutn, showing that they Were CONSTANT
~ flowing. one was oiled VITA "A cheap
Italian wine. which sells for about
thirteen cent? ~ our money bottle,
and the other contained Gamma tcanyal,
Tho native brandy, which N made of
tlgur, and which VIII XIII at forty rods
This brandy costs about thirteen centa
quart. AMI ~ NJ powerful that a
mmhlorfui win intoxlcnio an American
tppvr 4 man can, IN fact, get cheap
~ drink IN Paraguay than In any other
nlaee In the World. FOR with a dime he
can set enough liquor 10 put several
fegf IN hir collin.
The store also sold all kinds OF eat.
hhles such as sugar, rice aud bread,
Nefy little baking N done by the pco-
ple, and the hotel bakcH for the whole
community about II. The store also
hna r. stock NJ hats. shoes aud UNI
hrfllaG n has n little kerosene from
the United states. and u pair " scales
which were made by famous iirin OF
Vermont. These last were tho only
American things could see anywhere
American scales, coal oil aud cocktails
seem 20 be of universal consumption.
dm not ask tho hotel keeper for II
cocktail but doubt not he could have
made one " ordered.
before leaving photographed the
landlord ti. emily and the rest Of tho
town NJ the corner of the hotel. Niue
host brought out his PnraHunynn WHO
and MI his little fnragunyhn bnhler
and rosed them for me while pressed
the hutton.
AN ODD RAILROAD.
Paraguay has only one railroad, and
u n the only one ~ ita Kind IN the
World. II was built by an English
NfNHt' AN' WIN n nlk HhhNlNN lARNl fN'
government. and Il II run by the Eng
!lsh today, The ears 10 AZ Huch Nlp-
lent speed that "A hungry dog tied 10
ihs rear % the train might keep up ana
masiiente the axle grease ON the en-.
fine without trouble. II stops Ions az
Ne stations, nnd you have nH much
uHle ~ you want for your meals, the
VAN being only ready to start when
We last OF the passengers N through
drinking his coffee, I understand ihht
the road has Just now gone under new
nnnaRement, and II may be Improved
Wy The time this letter II published Tho
tnllng stock " In had way, the most
on u having evidently been made dur
lhn the last generation.
The prices ~ the tickets were very
low ana differed according aa 10 wheth-
er hny were first second or third class,
me htnt-claHA ears are much like ours
mat there " an aialo running
lhrough the center with seats on each
hlu,' The seats are cushioned with
wicker and are not uncomfortable. The
e.ohu'elhss cars are about the same
but those Of the third class have win
Vows like u street ear, with two other
benches running back 10 back through
NE center ~ the car.
me third-class ears were filled with
nuIneh ana men, the most Of whom
neIe smoking and chewing There were
nlpIe women than men and more amok-
yrs among them. SOME OF the girls
ere very pretty, hut almost all, from
npse or twenty 10 little tots OF six, had
wy cigars In their mouths
~ every station I saw women rmok-
nH cigars and women cigar peddlors
me 10 the car windows and offered