The times., 1899-06-11
MILLINERY POEMS
In LEGHORN FLATS
Must be Big, Creamy and
Rose Freighted.
And Beauty Wears Them With
Muslin Gowns.
The New Wrap Is an Airy Trine,
spangIed with Jet-Unique
Shoes.


sonal picturesqueness now is the time to
subscribe TO fashions latest decree.
Given a muslin frock and a cream white
leghorn of the moments manufacture and
the witch of Endor herself could hardly
help making pleasing appearance.
The smart leghorns are rather lofty of
crown with less floppy brims than former
ly and their color is that of the best Jersey
cream. ANY woman who knows the A, B,
c OF dress can get up her own leghorn po-
ems, and some roses, tulle or lace, some
tufts of grain and sometimes a little black
velvet ribbon are all the ingredients nee
essary for very dear" hat.
Most milliners face the tip edge of their
leghorns brims with one narrow line of
black velvet and then the rear of the brim
is pushed up fiat against the crown and
made fast by an ample cushion OF pink
roses. Then, to be strictly orthodox,
scarf of silk muslin, edged with cream
lace, is flung about the crown and lnotted
elaborately at some point with double
handful of wheat, rye or oats. With a
serene disregard of natures laws, but
plausible conviction as TO what is suitable
in hat architecture, the manufacturers have
put forth a fine crop of lilac tinted wheat,
shaded green, grey. and mauve oats and
rye as russet as autumn leaves.
All leshorn Celebrations are worked at
coquettish angles on the head and a goodly
number are anchored by soft full strings
of liberty silk or even the sheerest Swiss
into which black or white lace figures have
been inserted The very ideally pastoral
head-piece, however. is the green or gold
en- basket straw, which is neither faced
nor trimmed with any material save only
flowers, and the girl who gives her COM
plexion freely TO the sun and winds has
got a very dashing sort Of tout allie in
tough cream straw having widish brim
that curIs up at the edges, a medium crown
lower on one side than the other, ban
danna handkerchief of many colors twisted
about this and a huge feather pushed
though its folds.
Another particularly artistic hat of the
season is known as the Consuelo, being
style frequently pstronized by the Ameri-
can Duchess of Marlborough, to whose
slender, girlish face the picture brim is
very becoming.
that waves and curves to suit any head II
is called upon to cover. The crown is
heaped high with crisp black and white
silk muslin folded and pieated with skill
TO simulate mass OF crushed roses. Set
in the midst of this is a cluster OF pink
and scarlet poppies silk their soft crepey
petals lending very smart iooh TO the
whole. More muslin and poppies are ar
ranged in the back where the brim is
afns h
q very perfect millinery triumph.
With the Arcadian leghorns the whim-
sically pretty summer wraps and parasois
artfulIy demand association. II goes with
out very profound explanation that these
airy over things are purely for beauiys
sake Some of them are hsel-long circular
capes of black net sprinkled with clusters
of brightly winking black sequins, in de-
signs of most meri -orious pattern, and
the lovely robe is mounted on white or
tinted chiffon basis, then fully edged with
an abundant iounce Of black intricate
frilled ribbon pattern and chantilly or fin
est esprit garnished with CLEANS ot Jet.
These studies in jet and net are worn
chiefly over frou frou white frocks and
then the wearer OF so much fragile beauty
carries open at her shoulder in nine oc-
casions out of ten. a sun shade OF chiffon
covered with an overlay of what the
French describe as bouilloune OF the same
soft goods embroidered in spangled or
black ribbon hgurings.
The most covetable carriage and lawn
parasols have their partitions Of covering
cut in very deep godet points at the bot
tom so that when opened the possessor ap-
pears TO have huge airy star as back
ground for head and shoulders Another
very popular shape is the parasol with ex-
actly four ribs, thus practically producing
g square or diamond shaped canopy. and
handles are decorated 10 degree.
A huge rosette OF chiffon and loops of
white bebe ribbon fastens usually like
big white rose about the long white wood
stan and then from this floats. with airy
disregard OF the fact that it has no obvious
purpose in existing a scarf of chiffon or
long ends Of satin ribbon Another phase
Of decoration Is the close wrapping OF
stick handle in two SHADES OF satin rib
bon the ribbon drawn 50 tightly round and
round the stick that not a scrap Of wood
shows At the end of the handle the
streamers tie in a long elaborate bow.
From Paris arrive sun shades having ham
dies covered with velvet and then steel
beading is applied on the mauye, turquoise
or Spanish yellow surface.
At this moment the shopkeepers are ar
raying their counters with numberless tri-
fles appropriate to the needs OF the mo-
ment and sufficiently attractive TO draw in
the shoppers who have established them
selves In their country homes. There are,
for example. rows OF pretty Shoes made
wholly OF very stout pique in dark or light
tones and picked out in gay dots. These
have red, blue. green, or white heels to
match the color OF the pique and not bit
OF leather shows anywhere on this quaint
fooigear which laces up by ribbons of
color to match the piques figuring.
Another detail, worth journey to town,
is the paper fan that retails for less than
e dollar and folds up on three or five fat
bamboo splints. Hitherto these were
painted. gilded or etched with poor imita-
iions Of japanese and Chinese art and
were satisfactory enough until a shrewd
manufacturer thought out the plan of
photographing most delightful Oriental
scenes directly on the fans themselves,
daintily tinung the pretty pictures in most
lifeiike colors. and then on the blank
spaces Of gray. white or brown paper. of
which the fan is made by a few strokes OF
water color brush suggestions OF a bit OF
foliage are introduced as appropriate ia
panesy environment. Musmes at their
play or work, cool arbors, glipses OF FuZ-
yama and gushing water falls all IN pho
tographic miniature. are the coolest deco
rations possible for pretty cheap summer
fan.
The costly summer breeze raiser Is made
OF black or white muslin or net. with the
inevitable spangled accompaniment There
has been variation in the use OF the
sequins introduced. however. The fans are
OF medium size and first choiceiy painted
with flowers OF birds and the spangles are
then utilized to form the landscape or
architectural effect For instance they
send US from Paris lovely peacock fans of
gauze. Across black background strut a
flock Of these gorgeous fowls. all painted