Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1899-03-16
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
Millinery = Straws = Styles In Trimming -
Garnitures = Materials = New Modes In
Ira LII.


does modesty find expression or the
gentle softness which would seem be-
fitting to woman. To surprise is APP
parently the chief aim of fashionable
miliners and their end is attained be-
yondquestion. Color in straw is strong
clement and Furthermore in many cases
new weaves are not only very thin, but
devised in imitation of dress fabrics
and being draped in telling folds. boz
come their own gsrniture, with the sole
finish of pronounced bouquet on the
left side, that in place of n tapering
summit, shows in, finish, at least one
of those mammoth blossoms--roses,
poppies or orchids that are now in de
mand. Again in heavier colored straw,
huge crown may rise in turreted
shape or both crown and brim show
eyolutions that reach conyolutions, and
here, rs in thinner styles, tho hat may
be IT'S own garniture, with floral COM
pletion on one side.
An example in pink straw is finished
by rosette of white Liberty silk,
around which is placed in formal fash
ion, five pink crushed roses, while
prone against the same, is rosette Of
pink Liberty silk embedded in an
equal number of white roses. Tho
whole stands upright, like a floral
wheel. The example quoted, however,
is exceptional, but of interest in show
ing what freaks appear for approval.
As freak also, may be quoted . bonnet
that consists of three yellow straw
cones, one in tho centre and one on
either side. Each is trimmed by three
rows of very narrow black and white
lace put on full and in front, two sets
of wings projecting at tho sides, one ii
black jet the other white lace, have as
the central finish, full, soft black
aigretta,s
Tulle is conspicuous in garniture
and some hats are composed entirely of
this delightful fabric, which appears
in soft swathings, in rOsettes or as q
yelling. Yelling has indeed taken now
lease Of life and may be reckoned us q
leading feature. Lace that wells silk
or ribbon, is frequent and charming
portrayals occur, when soft fabrics
yelled by tulle, form groundwork for
tiny, green velvet leaves on delicate
stalks, that seemingly clasp in support,
the gossamer surface to which they
cling. Velvet, chiefly in material, but
in ribbon as well, is nevertheless Of FREE
quent occurrence, standing out In
native thickness, as contrast to sur
rounding softness and as an innovation
of the season, appear velvet ears left
with raw edges, the came being notice.
able in ribbon placed upright in aig-
rette style. Lace, both black and
white, though conventional, is used
again and beautiful, though modest
hat, with straight, medium brim, is
composed wholly OF thick white lace.
New India silks also shown by Lord
g. Taylor, are in Persian patterns of
palm leaves or otherwise in very close
designs that cover the groundwork
even to its exclusion. Japanese wash
silks are delightful in cool refinement
and modesty as WE'LL Marrow stripes
or checks IRE in brown, green, pink,
blue or lilac and so attractive that
choice becomes difficult. Lovely eta
mines have soft colored satin stripes
that run lengthwise through ecru sur
faces and at intervals OF about five
inches, a dash OF Persian colorings APP
pears on the stripe. Such materials
unite some gayety with great refine
ment and are rapidly bought by taste
full purchasers. aCrepon inequalities
are of frequent occurrence in parti-col-
ored grenadines that show marrow satin
stripes set at quarter inch intervals,
the thin groundwork filled in, impart-
ing rich appearance becoming to
slender wearers. Extremely new and
handsome silks Of thin texture and
satins of the usual weight, have dag
onal squares in lace and yet handsomer
fabrics of similar quality, show lace
bow knot figures at distances of several
inches. These materials are made over
silk that of course shows through the
lace designs.
A desperate effort is in process, by
which skirts may be robbed of the
simplicity that has been so attractive.
Great tightneSs about the hips, brings
up the question as to a necessary full
ness on the lower part; the setting in
of plaits below tho placket hole is not
now novel, but is obligatory, so long as
there is no fulness above and wearers
of gowns made in such style, still take
pride in the closely buttoned over
placket hole at the back or as il also
appears, at the side. Fulness on the
lower portion is most frequently OBJ
tanned by flounces that are of extreme
advantage for such purpose of by two
or three successive skirts and expert
ence has proved that as completion to
fashionable gowns, the S. II. and M.
bias brush edge skirt binding is beyond
compare, since being a unique COM
bination of velveteen and n brush edge,
it gives natural curve rounded to fit
the dress of which it seems u part,
since no wrinkle or shadow of one can
appear anywhere to mar tho handsome
finish.
A stylish dress for street wear, in
ecru cloth, is trimmed with self colored
miroir velvet and shows four skirt cores
on either side, graduated in length
towards the front, but its daring char
acter consists in the fact that it is cut
open down the front the opening of
course closed with tailor finish up to
distance of about 10 or IL inches below
the waist and here are noticeable four
buttonholes and buttons that cores
pond with those on the jacket fronts.
Below the belt of folded miroir velvet
is short flaring basque that falls over
considerable fitness laid in plaits.
The skirt cores are outlined by velvet
that also appears in crosswise folds on
the sleeves and forms cuffs falling over
tho wrists.
''Griselda. " Doubtless many last
years skirts will be worn again, be-
cause too many ladies have them on
hand and dressmakers to the contrary
some fulness at the back is often OBJ
iigatory. Rosalind May.