The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1899-07-09

nands a skillfuI workman 10 cut her
gowns and an artist to trim them.
A gown Of malines lace is built over a
white transparency. On the lace are en-
broidered long lilies and sprays of con-
Volvulus in several shades of blue and
purple. On the corsage the embroidered
flowers are arranged with inserted bands
and with bows of blue velvet ribbon. A
high belt and long ends are of blue tulle.
Almost work of art is a gown Of pink
mousseline de sole. The yoke and elbow
sleeves are of lace and ruff1es of lace
finish the skirt. Under the lace on the
bodice is q lining of palest blue, to give
the fashionable blue and pin combination.
Over the gown are orchids, some painted
with embroidered foliage, and some
of the artificial flowers, half appliqued on
the mousseline. There is, again, on this
gown q high belt of blue satin draped
with lace. A prettier gown, even, is one
of white mousseline with a raised en-
broidery of yellow silk The skirt is
finished with a heavy ruff1e of yellow
lace. and above this are sprays of roses
painted on the mousseline between the
designs. Added to this are incrustations
of lace on the lower part of the skirt.
The bodice is trimmed in the same way
and has white muslin belt.
Probably the height Of luxury now Is
lace gown In which painted pieces of
mousseline de sole are inserted. A beau
tifuI dress of this sort is of Cluny, with
diamond pieces Of white mousseline de
sole, embroidered with iris. Lavender
velvet forms a high belt, end the sleeves
are of lace and end the elbow. On all
the gowns there Is some form of the high
belt. The sober dresses OF the spring ig-
more the waist line, while some Of the
| summer models present most lavish
amount of belt. Both extremes are fash
ionable An Unbroken waist line is the
height of elegance in certain style Of
gown, and more elaborate costumes call
for the Directoire belt. Which style
should be followed depends on the char
acter of the gown. 1t is still true to say
many costumes are made without any
excuse for a belt, for, unless the belt has
| an ornamental value, it has no reason for
existing This is simply quoting dicta-
! tor of French modes, who goes SO far as
to say that most women look better with
| out a belt unless it is high belt, which
| increases the length of limb.
! The radical change in dress this season
| has demanded an equally radical change
! in corsets. Every effort has been made
! to present a slender figure, and even the
smallness of the waist line has been sac
rificed to this effect. The latest news is
! that the Partisan is discarding all makes
of corsets, and, in place of stays, is filing
| the lining of her dress with whalebone.
! With a certain style of figure there is
! certainly an advantage in not wearing a
| corset under a princess gown or tunic.
There will be a pretty curve to the waist
| behind, and the boned lining will do away
with the thickness Of the corset. A cor
! setless costume is a great luxury; but 1t
| can only be accomplished by an expert
| dressmaker, and it must be expected that
! a gown Of this sort will lose its shape
| before one worn over stays. But every
revolt against corsets seems to bear some
| fruit. inasmuch as it leads to an improve
| ment in corsets.
| The lace bolero is one of the pretty
features of the seasons fashions. 1t is
made of a heavy lace, with sleeves, and
| Is unlined. jacket of this sort may be
worn as a dressy top with nice tai
tornado skirt in place Of the ordinary
| Jacket One of the prettiest gowns seen
| this season has a skirt Of fawn-colored
| cloth, made with a row Of shingles about
the hips Each single is edged with a
! line of gold cloth. The skirt is cut suff1-
ciently high to form belt, and fastens
on one side with gold clasp. This idea
| Of doing away with the belt is extremely
modish on a tailor-made skirt. The blouse
| Is of white null, with choker and small
! yoke, made of lines Of gold cloth and
narrow black velvet. Over this is jecket
| with sleeves of yellow plliDIIra IT req oh q q