The Anaconda standard. [volume] (Anaconda, Mont.) 1889-1970, 1899-09-17

ionable shape, pointed in the front,
| worked on net. Again the lawn of
which the flowers are composed is COW
cred with the fur and all the rest of
the pattern embroidered and mingled
with lace stitches. Collars for opera
cloaks are singularly effective in this
style, and are generally large enough
to reach to the shoulders. after the or
der of the cape collars now worn. Oc-
casionally the fur and the lace are sup
plemented by a few jewels and with
sable small turquoises seem to have the
predominance.
Our designers are falling back on
| many splendid fashions of medieval
days, for almost anything repeated in
our modern days can adapt itself to the
current fashions. The cracquele net s
a capital foundation for applique but it
is always necessary that with the fur
there should be a background of either
lace stitches or linen applique which
blends well with the dark fur, mat
alone would seem too heavy and SOM
Der. Indeed, the fur ought 20 be used
sparingly. In the first place it would
be too heavy for the lace, and it GER
tainly would lose a good deal of its
grace, for it is both magnificent ard
graceful.
Almost any of the Italian laces can
be utilized for this new lace work and
some of the people who have torn speci-
mems are hiding the shred by fur ar-
plique, which they back with a light
make of linen that gives them solidity.
it should always be the heavier makes
of lace. English point Spanish point
and some of the pretty French laces are
all suitable, and it is astonishing how
much effect a very little fur makes
1t simplfies matters much, as far as
needlework is concerned, if, in lieu of
a heavy buttonholed edge, there is only
sufficient substance given to which to
attach narrow bordering of fur Even
during the heat of the late season l
saw lovely white lisse gown draped
over pink silk, bordered with narrow
beaver. A point d'Argentan tiounce is
one of the best examples I have seen
with fur introduced: the designs are
holder than d'Alencon, and it recalls
Venetian point as far as minute work
manship and exquisite execution, but
the design and workmanship are very
different indeed, the flowers more COM
pact. Some Of the old point d'France,
made between 1865 and 1920 at Loury, is
perhaps as close an imitation of raised
Venetian and Spanish point: but of
course it would be a great pity to treat
any precious old lace with fur, for TO
make it sufficientially substantial
good deal of close sewing is required
which would be highly detrimental to
chosen from the early cut work would
make beautiful concentrations for
dresses. We seem to have but little in
Ventive power in our days and have to
fall back on old models.
People have a very indistinct idea of
what is bone" lace, viz, pillow lace
made with bone bobbins. 1t is always
a good thing, as far as real lace is con-
cerned, that we should have fashions
which do not require the use of an in
ordinate amount of lace. and 1t tends
that way now. 1t has been considered
good taste all the year through to wear
real lace even in the daytime. and one
of the great costumers in Paris has
been laying narrow bands of Spanish
point over strips of dark. long-haired
fur so that some of the hairs are WISH
BILE between the interstices of the pat
tern. Gold and silver thread always
seem to be in harmony with this rich
style of ornamentation; indeed, in the
Tudor days, when a vast deal of fur
was worn, gold ana silver lace were
perhaps more worn than at any other
period, and some of the partlets cover
ing the shoulders were made of such
lace, with borderings of fur, the long
hanging sleeves being bordered with fur
below insertion.
I have as yet told you nothing of
evening and dinner costumes. and in
deed there are as yet very few exhib-
tied by the best houses. specially
beautiful dinner gown seen this week
was of old rose uncut velvet. The
trained skirt of the velvet. cut in cir
cular shape and made in single piece.
was encrusted with applica tons of
flowers of Venice lace. leaving the tab
lier plain. The waist very slightly
bloused, was of Venice guipure thickly