The times., 1899-09-17
signs OF THE new season
0ciober's Fine Showing Of Stylish
Hats and Gowns.
with Other CommendabIe Novelties,
Dame Fashion Has Introduced a
Handsome and Useful TIster-Aiso
the RaEfand-The silver Fox
TrIumphs Over the Russian sable.

ers, the tailors. furriers, and milliners
are enjoying daily conferences with
their clients, and after going through
that deplorable moulting season, when
IT is too early to put off shabby sum-
mer things. and too warm TO get into new
autumn togs. the women are rapidly
coming forth in smart, fresh fineries.
On the street it is now possible to
take stock Of the new coats, and a great
many full box shapes, with Raglan shoul-
ders. certainly are worn. or course. they
should be the exclusive property Of the
youthful and slender, for ample proper
tions find no strength or refuge in their
straight, trying lines. Everything except
a dress coat, that fairly lays itself out in
its gorgeous revers, buttons well up onto
the chest with fly front. too. and there,
only a few inches below the chin, opens
back with modestly small siIk-faeed lapels.
Again, everything except a dress coat,
the eccenuicities and prerogatiyes of
which viii be dweIt upon later, has pock-
cts, plenty Of them, and for true service
designed. A Raglan pocket, for instance,
when it is nobly planned, has right hand
cious silk-lined socket and then there is,
on the same side, breast pocket. A ticket
pocket is its descriptive title given by the
tailor men, and if the coat is used for tray
cling. the virtues of that pocket can be
tested and appreciated.
A little later on and we viii be criti-
cising the usefulness and beauty of the
long-skirted ulster that fits the body close
and has & trife Of fullness in the rear,
where a strap spans the base of the spine
and is glorifed by a large silver buckle
Long cloth ulsters in the colder weather
VIII be used with capelets OF bears fur
that are short on the shoulders, high in
the collar, but almost reaching the feet
in front in two stole ends. The opera
mantles, so far as they have allowed their
charms TO be viewed. are beautiful in the
extreme. They are long OF course. carry
large lace hoods la Bretonne made Of
heavy lace lined with colored silk muslin.
and In order to gain a desired width at the
shoulders the silk, satin or damask skirts
Of the coat hang from wide yokes of lace
over satin and this yoke is edged by
deep bertha frill. The magnifcence OF
some OF the opera cloaks made can be es-
timated when one trimmed, collared, cuff
ed, and hooded with silver fox, was sold
10 the American woman in London Just the
other day for $S.00e.
This proves the value of the silver fox
as an article of dress, though brown fur
promises to be Worn far more than any
other. AS is customary, the furriers are
beginning TO mix the richly toned pelts,
and two shades of sable. or mink, or bear,
or marten are put together with nice re-
suits. One OF the most commendable of
the new@wraps in fur is a cape collar hay-
ing broad ends falling 10 or below the
waist line and made of the tails of brown
bear. so called by furriers who would like
all animals TO possess symmetrical salea-
bic tails. These bear tails are nothing
more than fluffy balls OF fur made OF bear
and blue fox skin scraps and tackled upon
a cape of cub bear fur
One of the first responsibilities of the
seasons authorities was 10 provide fash
ion with the proper sort Of walking hat
and the struggle has been TO arrive at a
compromise between the article that
would appear advantageously on the
street and yet mark decided departure
from the hard quill and crown band habit
OF last season. single plume from the
old grey goose's tail. stuck independently
through the crown of q slouch felt, is not
the approved autumnal idea. green
or grey. or brown felt with a bent edge
b-im and a stiff bowler crown seems 20
be the triumphant one Of many shapes and
as might be expected it has been desig-
mated patriotically by the name of Ad-
niral Dewey's flagship, the Olympia
There is nothing nautical about the
Olympia" 1t lis wound about the base
OF its brim with q scarf Of dark liberty
silk and this comes 10 a loose knot in
front. in the folds Of which the quill ends
OF two long soft composite plumes are
made fast OF well dyed barn-yard fowl
feathers these plumes are made mottled
white down the center. and they are so
arranged as TO droop softly TO one side
Into the liberty silk knot a fancy strass
pin is introduced and this rs happy con-
Irast TO the unbecoming cowboyish head
gear that all womankind that adopted IL
during the summer should remember with
blush great many patronesses of
the Olympia wear the easy-fitting hat on
hair dressed low at the back Of the head
and a strap Of elastic. not skewer pins, is
used TO keep the felt in its place
The younger element in fashion who do
not give entire allegiance to the abore-de-
scr5bed chapeau. are making bright vistas
down the streets with their clear red feits
IN curzte shape. That is, a soft low cir
cular crown having a rather narrow brim
rolling up on all sides. To relieve the mo-
lotony Of the genuine curate hat these
little saueer-iike felt5 have their brims
wound with Paisley patterned handker-
chief and a red and brown ducks wing on
the left side.
At the opening OF every one OF the four
quarters OF fashion into which the year Is
divided the rumor is spread that only
small hats will be worn, and strictly
speaking they co serve TO initiate the
changes OF mode More than this they do
not do, and a large felt with graceful
brin, in garden shepherdess, 1890 or al
most any other good mold. win be as po-
tent an element for beauty and style dur
ing the deepening season as at any pre-
rious time. One and all OF these large
shapes wear skin of pinched velvet on
the under sides OF their brims and the
term pinched is used because the velvet
is drawn into tuek-like lines without be-
ing stitched.
Happily the goose. eagle and turkey quill
have fought their good fight and are now
on prolonged leave OF absence from mil
linery duties. II the place Of these very
broad quilts faced on their under sides
with white. grey. or brown. ostrich or mar
about down appear as novel and welcome
element in decoration. Let note also bt
made OF the startling birds heads that are
seen on some OF the model hats from Paris
No fowls that ever few by land or sea wore
such beaks, eyes. topknots, crests, and
sinuous necks as these very evidently man.
made creatures display. They are wonder
ful examples OF the manufacturers imagi-
nation and not lacking at all in artistic
beauty and ornamental value. Some OF the
cruel-looking beaks are made of polished