The times., 1899-11-12
FOODS OF THE cHIN EsE.
Some Common Errors as to the Meats
Consumed.
(From the Forum.)


The cuisine of the Chinese and the mode
and ceremonies attending their feasts have
done much to give them a somewhat extra
ordinary reputation. Globe trCtters, striv-
ing to make their letters brilliant and their
books sensational have told such wonder
full tales OF bird-nest soup, canine hams,
grimalkin frica5sees, rats, snakes, worms,
and other culinary novelties, served up
in such marvellous styles and eaten with
such apparent relish that their readers
naturally take it for granted that these
things form a large proportion Of the food
OF the people OF China.
Generally speaking, the diet OF the Chin
ese is sufficient in variety, wholesome and
well cooked, even if their methods are es-
sentally different from our own. Doubt
less many of the dishes are found extreme
ly unpalatable TO Americans, because Of
the quantity Of nut oil used and by rea-
son of the puugent flavor of the large
amount of garlic introduced. In the latter
respect, however. the dishes Of Southern
Europe are equally Objectionable. As to
the assortment of food, it has been said
that there is a wider difference, perhaps,
between the rich and the poor of China
than Of any other country.
II is probably true that the Chinese use
a greater variety Of meats than do the peo-
pie Of other countries, although but little
land is set apart for grazing or for the
cultivation of food for live stock Beet
is not common meat, principally because
of the Buddhlstic prejudice against killing
any animal, and particularly such a useful
one Since hogs can be so economically
reared. pork is undoubtedly, after rice the
leading article of food. This. is eaten IN
every form and one may say that every
part Of the animal is utilized for food,
HOrsefesh, yenisOn, antelope, and bear are
often seen, but in passing through the
markets pork mutton. and fowls are the
mcst conspicuous.
For fish the Chinese have an omnivoTous
appetite; nothing from the water, either
fresh or salt, being rejected. A few kit
tens and puppies may be offered for sale
! in cages. These which are intended for the
/ table are fed upon grain and clean food;
so that, If the nature of this food be con-
sidered, ii is far more wholesome than is
/ the uncIean hog. To assert that cats and
/ dogs form a staple article OF food is pure
! fiction.
/ One may live for years in a Chinese city
without seeing rats or mice offered for sale
as food. They are sold for medicine; but
/ even fer Jhis purpose they are net so easily
caught as 10 be cheap. The treatment 10
( which the common people often subject un-
fortunate rats which have been caught in
I the granary initiates strongly against the
notion that these animals are selected as
/ choice tid-bits for the table. Because the
rats steal their most precious article OF
food rice, the Chinese hold that they are
! criminals Of the deepest dye, and that they
merit the worst kind of torture. Black
dogs and cats are fayorites among the most
/ superstitious natives Of the south These
animals invariably command a higher price
than others, and are eaten at mid summer
in the belief that the meat insures both
health and strength for the ensuing year
/ The blood Of all animals is taken, so far
as concerns religious scruples, except by
| Buddhist priests by a few of the stricter
/ laymen, and, OF course, by the Moham-
medans, of whom there are quite a number
! In the northern nart OF the countrY