The record-union. [volume] (Sacramento, Calif.) 1891-1903, 1899-06-11

cream vary from u to % per cent. If
the cream falls below the minimum the
dealer stands the immediate danger Of
losing fat contract.
Eggs are tender subject with the
large hotel man, and the steward in
variably buys the costliest in the mar
ket. An egg of bad character may lose
for the hotel one of its best patrons, and
may indirectly cause others to change
their quarters, as the man who leaves
on account of a, disreputable egg is sure
to tell about it. Not only that, but it
has the power to ruin scores of dollars
worth of dainty pastry, gallons of pud-
dingS and custardS, and generally do
untold damage.
All the eggs not boiled to order are
broken separately by skilled assistants,
making the cost of handling them
considerable item. Two hundred and
fifty dozen is an average number used
each day in large hotel, and at busy
times as much as 500 dozen have been
handled. Breaking and judging 5000
eggs in day is no small task, as can
easily be imagined.
The ultra fashionable hostelres use
English mutton to the almost complete
exclusion of the American product, al
though immense quantities of the latter
are daily exported to England. Lit is the
proper thing to call for English mutton
chops, although it takes a skilled cpl
cure to distinguish their delicate flavor
The sheep there are kept more care
fully and the fattening process is slower
and more painstaking. 1t would be an
easy matter for the hotel man to fur
nish American mutton when English is
ordered, as not one guest out of forty
would recognize the fraud, but hotels
that pride themselves on their cuisine
dare not practice such a deception
All the meat used is treated with ar
tistic care, and the ''ripening' process
requires the judgment of am expert
When purchased it is ticketed with the
date of killing and the dressing, and is
then packed in a cold room at 40 de-
grees for two weeks. When removed it
is usually covered with thick mold.
and the appearance of this mold to the
expert is the keynote of its condition.
1t must be ripe, juicy and tender, and
the long storage usually brings about
these results
The real work of the kitchen falls to
the lot of the chef In four of the great
est New York hotels the chef is an
Alsatian, and his salary ranges from
$1,000 to $1,000 year. He has a num-
Der of department chefs under him and
each of them has small regiment Of
helpers.
The next in rank to- the chef is the
saucer, who boils the meats and mixes
the soups and sauces. After him comes
the rotisseur who broils and roasts all
the meats and fish. Following the rotis-
seur is the entremetier, who handles all
the side dishes, such as vegetables, ONE
lettes and whatever is fried. The garde
a manger, next in rank, makes the sal
ads and prepares the cold meats. The
boucher, who cuts the meats, and the
poissonier, who dresses the fish, and the
casserolier. who fills the important post
of head pot-washer, complete the exec
utive force Of the chef
With a we'll -orga nized staff of assist
ants the main duty of the chef comes
lust before meal time, when he makes
a round of the entire kitchen, tasting
every article prepared. He may suggest
some slight change, like the adding Of
seasoning, but usually everything has
been done to his satisfaction. The bak-
cry force is independent of the chef.
A description of the fittings Of one
of these kitchens would fill volume,
and were the technical terms used it
would be wholly urinteiligible to the
average good housewife. The equipment
of an up-to-date hotel kitchen costs
close to 100000, and the yearly ex-
pense of keeping it in fine running or
der is equivalent to the income of
millionaire-New York World.
Try Wilson, Hall & Cos Grown"