The new dominion. [volume] (Morgantown, W. Va.) 1876-1904, 1899-10-04

anu l0lk-lOTe.
But we have strayed so far from tn
Harlaw that we must perch ON tn
back OF one Of the friendly cheepin,
seagulls, and fly over the forest ant
the blue waves to our boat, putin,
out TO sea towards St. Pauls shadow
on the horizon Ere long the stewart
comes in search of us, and we descend
TO do full justice 10 the above men
toned Holsters, and TO many othe
good things, for who could fail to b,
hungry with the smell of the sea il
the nostrils, and the cool, soft, bal
sam laden air filling the lungs? On
coming on deck, we found that W,
were just anchoring off st. Pauls, al
island about two and half mile.
long by half mile broad, with fin,
backbone,-mostly backbone in fact
of mountains. Here are two light
houses, one at either end of the islant
and in winter the keepers, with ;
few other scattered families, form the
only population, a dreary life, wher
sometimes ship does not visit
them for two or three weeks
anu bACh HdS W iOtOt HCI way luIOukf
the drifting ice. But to-day the is
land is thing Of beauty, bathed in Z
flood OF golden sunset light. We were
seized with desire to stop off for 4
week, and go scrambling over the
mountains, and fishing in the waters
which abound in all sorts of tinny
beasts, but almost before we knew
the anchor was lifted, and we were
steaming towards Cape Ray, St
Paul's lights twinkling in the dis.
lance far astern. The night was star.
ry and clear when we turned in, but
soon after midnight warning tool
was heard, and the fog closed down sc
thick that instead of reaching Port at
Basques, or Channel as it is general
ly termed, about a. M, the siren
woke us at $3.50, and on coming on
deck, we found we were lying at the
wharf. AS there was time for a lit
tie walk, we went on shore for the
first time in Newfoundland, and turn.
cd towards the little town, about a
mile inland, where the officers obtain
the clearing papers. All along the
road grew beautiful flags, (fieur de lis, J
and in the little kitchen gardens the
strawberries were not yet ripe. We
were struck by the funny little earth
houses, resembling dug-outs, but COW
cred with turf, in which the villagers
keep their vegetables during the win
ter The ground is very rocky, and
they cannot dig cellars, but all the
houses stand on short pilings, to pre-
vent dampness and the produce is
stored in the little root-houses. As
cod fishing is the chief industry, the
large raft-like constructions for dry
ing the fish are important features in
the landscape. Nearly all parts of IA
cod are used; the livers are taken out
and put into keg, so that the sun
may draw out the OIL which in its
crude state sells for twenty five cents
a gallon as lubricant. The cod liver
oil for medicinal purposes goes
through varied series OF operations
before it is refined and ready for sale.
The tongues and sounds, a part lying
along the back, are delicacy, most
delectable when fresh and also very
good sailed.
The fog delayed us at Channel until
about 10 O'Clock, but as we slowly
steamed away, the captain comforted
US with the assurance that after pass
ing Cape Ray we should 1nd clear
weather, which proved to be the case,
and for the remainder of the day, we
enjoyed fine view Of the coast. The
Western shore is much less visited by
fogs than either the South or East,
because the east wind, blowing fog to
either of the latter from the banks,
has to pass over the land before reach
ing the West, AMI thus becomes clear
The next port was Codroy, fishing
village situated on a gentle noun
tain slope, terminating in an abrupt
cliff at the waters edge. Quite fleet
Of boats put out to meet US, twelve of
them, some quite large scows, carry
ing loads of ten or eleven barrels of
flour; this may not sound very much,
but the lighterage thereof was exceed
ingly interesting, as the water was a
little rough, and the boats went bob
bling up and GOWN, much TO the
alarm of some of the passengers,
whose destination Godfrey was.
The transfer safely accomplished, we
started on long run to the village of,
and along the bay of, St. George.
The coast here is rugged, consisting
for the most part of rather high noun
tdins, sometimes sparsely, sometimes
luxuriantly wooded, at the base of
which are sheer cliffs, from one to two
| hundred feet high, and of brilliant
coloriDg. The strata are very oddly
disposed, now horizontal, now wavy,
and once or twice, actually vertical,
and the various hues, ranging from
white through pale pink and yellow
to rich red, vandyke brown and sepia,
with the darkgreen background of the
pine covered hills, and the brilliant
sparkling blue ocean in the fore
ground, formed feast of color which
will live long in our remembrance.
The village of Bay St. George lies at
the very head of the bay which the
long peninsula, terminating in Cape
st. George, forms. A long narrow
strip of sand curves out from the
mainland, and on it part of the vii
lage is built, the rest being perched
on piles which at high tide, are near
| ly covered with water; these houses
are reached by long wooden walks, at
the side of which are innumerable fish
racks for cod drying. The houses on
the land are built. contrary to Scrip
tural injunction, on the sand, each
house fenced in its own yard, and
somewhat below the level of the out
side ground; one wonders why the in
habitants chose such desolate spo t,
for just across the little bay is good
land, and fine pasture. AS we left
the shore, as when we approached,
the most delicious odor of pine and
balsam was waited over to us, strong,
resinous and invigorating, as though
we were passing through the forest
glades, Instead of being half mile or
more out to sea.
When we rose next morning, we
were in the Bay of Islands, but alas,
a fog had settled, and nothing was
visible save the soft grey mist; at last
the curtain lifted slightly, and tower
ing above US we saw huge rocky cliffs,
Vi which glimpse dtler glimpse Was
afforded, until beautiful panorama
opened up. The Bay is we'll named,
although the islands are not so. num-
erous as at Burgeo, on the South
coast, whose harbor contains an is
land for each day in the year. Just
after rounding Cape Blomidon, mag
nificent headland, we we're startled to
to see man on the rocks, hugging a
loaf of bread, on which monkey at
his feet seemed to have designs. For