Omaha daily bee., 1899-11-26
ARIsToCRATs OF THE NEEDLE.
Dressmnkers Who Limit Their Gus
tom to m ExclusIYc Circle.

| Dressmakers Who Limit Their Cus.
| tom to an Exclusive Circle.
| 1t is far easier for camel to slip through
the eye of real cambric needle than it i!
for rich woman to get her name on the
books Of those New York dressmakers, milli
ners, taiors and corsetieres who belong tc
the smart and exclusive circles of trade
| Nowhere else in the world Is there corps
of such Independent caterers of feminine
wardrobes as on Fifth avenue and the neigh.
boring side streets, and it requires more
than mere money and more than a coaxine
| tongue to induce these aristocrats Of the
needle to accept your patronage.
When New York dressmaker has
touched the crest of success she does not
like the great Partisan modistes, build an
| elaborate and richly upholstered establish
ment, enlarge her workrooms and invite
general custom. Her first maneuver is to
select a quiet brown stone -fronted house
use as small brass door plate as can carry
just her surname and bring down her list
OF patrons to a limit that represents the
! cream OF good society. There is no such
| thing known at an exclusive dressmaker S
as accepting a customer who strolls in, says
she wants to see the proprietor and order
a gown.
What is your name?"
Have We ever served you before?"
Are you a resident Of New York;"
who recommended you here?'
These are some the queries frigidly put
by a damsel of fashion plate aspect, who
sits at French desk in the small, simply
furnished reception room II you are from
distant city, recommended by nobody in
particular, your patronage Is then and there
politely but firmly refused and formally
bowed out, by both buttons and the woman
In waiting, you go hang doggedly down the
step, feeling very much as If you had been
caught asking aims or forcing your way
into private household.
If you come recommended you have one
chance Your name is sent in to the head
Of the house, along with that of the person
who made the recommendation, and ma
dame, the proprietress, sits in judgment and
decides whether she desires to register you
in glt-edged morocco bound visitors book
in the French writing desk. Like as not
word will be sent down by a page In livery
to say that madame has closed her book for
the season, and begs to be excused from
taking any further orders. This may be the
truth or 1t may mean that you have been
looked up and found missing from Boston,
Philadelphia or Chicago's social register and
are therefore not worth botherlng with.
To gain the genuine consideration of the
establishment you must come in the com
pany of some strong patron who VIII in
troduce you and speak to madame in your
behalf, but II you are turned down and go
on to the nearest attractive looking brass
plated door you see you will probably find
yourself in the next grade of exclusive dress
maker. She will take your orders, but no
matter II you place no limit as to price and
offer to put your money down in advance
she won't make you but just a certain num-
ber OF costumes, and not the simplest wash
dress will be estimated on for less than $3.50.
Now this seems autocratic, but that Is
Just what these dressmakers are, and wish
to be. and the corset and bonnet makers are
no less so when the assume to cater only
to fashionable custom. I'VE have decided
not TO enlarge our custom any further"
was what stay manufacturers elegantly
laced lady assistant announced to would
be purchaser the other day. However"
she added, I'VE have opened a waiting list,
and II you like you may put your name