The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-10-15
A CHEF FROM FAR INDIA.
j. Ranji Smile Here to Teach Americans
How to Eat Currts.

From India comes j. Ranii Smile Those who
know him familiary call him Joe. IF the women
of America will but eat the food prepare he says.
they will be more beautiful than they yet mag
inc. The eye will grow lustrous. the complexion
will be yet lovely and the figure like unto those
OF our beautiful Indian women"
Joe came To New York few weeks ago, since
which time he has been serving all sorts OF de-
lecabc dishes in a great Fifth avenue restaurant.
The fancy for curry which is the foundation Of all
India dishes. seems to have taken possession Of
every who has eaten of them. You take n
seat at of the dainty tables, look over the
India menu with sor, of fear and trembling of
what is to come, with delightful uncertainty
pervading your soul 1t costs lot Of money,
too, but then you are there and in for the expense
Soon Joe arrives Immediately arrayed in heavy
white linen Indian costume with gorgeous
turban of white all outlined in gold braid
With broad smile which shows al his cleaning
teeth and with the little seductive manner that
peases the public so much. he lays before you a
silver dish. As he removes the cover you feel
that life is not all weary dream and you become
less skcptcal India dishes in general. Joe
makes a cunning little circle your plate with
the deftneSs Of long practice Of the wh!tcs akcst
curried rice, in the centre Of which he places a
bit Of chicken. All this time he is telling you
in his gentle sort of way that his one hope is that
this may be only the first Of many dinners he is to
serve you. Instead Of one dish you may have an
entire India menu running as follows:
Kalcoh. Sherry.
Muskec Sindh
Curry OF Chicken madras;
Iettu.r. Ccyion.
KhuTbO, "a H. !ar.
CO.fce kaTaO>ee.
This, J. Ranii explains, is the typical dinner
,l,n II IaIi in,
better stations Of life would have in India. "Oh.
your great trouble in this county" he continues,
us the hurried cooking. almost feel like fainung
go TO some OF your great resorts, look into
your kitchens and the way the food is prepared
This gives the dyspepsia, which all my friends
here wnom / have served say they do not e1-
dss are SfSn Sh on my s s RnEnE
that everything must be very hot and peppery,
This is no, so Of indie c"" "t s!Sc, All
as 10 smoothness, that II will be so pleasant a
taste they can but ask for more. -,
simmer gently and not lose their flavor In
India and China curries are often served In sepa
rate dishes. Now, do not boil the rice. Cleanse
1t, using three times as much water in boiling
as there is rice. and never stir it, and then il all
" EG so q" ess "y e E"g % make
tour through the West and South after he finishes
his, missionary work in the East, and then there
floating about in this beautiful county" just
now he is in n great state Of excitement over the
| he will guide through an elaborate service in
beautifully a G9Tprsd ird,a 70, E ~ and
and thrm So tcv s ne nncs
ent nationalities just how he does this il is
difficult to say, as he follows no special rules,
| except the spontaneous inspiration 81 his own
PRINT PRINT title book. telling The American women
pare it and serve il, and who knows what dcg ht-
fu effect this may have on the masculine tcmIcr-
amcnL The reason Americans do not succeed.
as rule with curricS, which form such back
ground OF Indian cooking, is that they are always
! In too much Of rush, and they curry everything
| alike: for # you curry chicken the same as a
piece Of fish, piece OF beef, trouble is bound 10
| arise, and, in disgust, the cook lays II on the
Joe has all his own silver dishes and utensils,
his own separate place In the great kitchen, where
| he is absolute monarch Of all he surveys. and the
| French chef must strictly mind his own affairs
| On state occasions, II YOU want things partiCl-
iarIy up to date he will array himself in his gor-
geous best costume, consisting of a long black
satin lined coat a cross between frOck coat and
a dress coat, magnificent embroidered white sosh.
! pointed slippers, white trousers and n light blue
silk urhan which the Mahnraiah Of Cooch-
behar has pinned n handsome design in rccogni,
particularly impressive. II takes five yards OF
silk twined and twisted into such firm shape that
outline and the cost is about Sl5 as this material
must be Of the finest quality. Joe has made sew,
eral turbans for prominent people on the stage
usually placing sweeping feather 10 ono side. 10
give il the necessary iauntv touch. lie never
places himself under contract to any one as he
wants 10 see the great American world. He says
in every instance where he has served his India
MENU the pcop" have returned for n second. many
Of the ladies asking for his various receipts To use
in their homes Joe explains:
| IAN this would do, but | am so very busy.
must think out each day something new and very
novel, because, dear me the American public mus
be entertained as well as fed"
This foreign cook is very handsome re pre
sentative of his country clear dark skin, bril
liant black ewes, smooth black hair and the whites
Of teeth. This" he says faCetiOusy, comes from
the careful way we eat in India. and before | 70
turn will tell how TO the ladies Of America"