The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1899-12-17


made shoe. There were formerly three
CT four retail shoe dealers with a practical
monopoly of the business Of New York's
Well-dressed men and they were able to
make the style of last that was in de-
mand. Wholesale manufacturers or max
ers of ready-made shoes realized after
while that the best thing for them to do
would be to copy this model and they did
it with great success, so that there is very
little apparent difference between the
ready-made article and the other which
costs three times as much. Shoes for
evening dress were sufficiently explained
in the remarks on the Tuxedo coat.
The neckwear demands consideration
next. The most striking thing about the
average Americans cellar when he sets
out to dress himself with particular care
is its tightness. If it is not tight enough
in the first place he will pull his tie SO
tight that it will almost choke him. This
is peculiar TO American men, as in no 9th
er country is the tight col ar affected.
Englshmen wear their collars very loose.
Nobody has ever explained satisfactorily
why the American dandy should wear his
collar tight but the ia t remains That he
does. One man said hat he never felt COM
Portable and dress ed up unless his collar
was tight and that may have explained
would be dressed most formally should,
according to the proprieties, wear a
straight collar of medium hight, closed in
front, or a standing collar with the cor
GERS turned down in front. Either OF these
forms is as much suited to full dress as
the other, and it is only the question OF
which is the more becoming that has 10
be decided. The high collars turned down
all around are distinctly informal and can
not be regarded as suited 10 full dress.
Men have attempted to make them that;
they can be seen in boxes at the open or
at the most formal balls. but they could
not be made fun dress even if The best
known men in New York wore them.
scarf for full dress in the day time, which
would mean with a frock coat, must 10
dav be broad and full It is tied merely
by allowing il to fall from the neckband
and holding ii in place with PIN. Inc
o,d-fashioued Ascot, or plastron scarf, Is
still worn and always will be, as 1t IS
standard style that can no more change
that a bow-knot. The four-in-hand, some-
what broader than it has been, still holds
its place and is another among the per-
manent features in mems dress. on the
other hand the very small knot with the
haring ends, is falling into disfaVors. Ihe
stvle is always striking and rather loud,
and its disappearance viii cause no re-
greet. What are commonly known as str ng
neckues are this year more popu ar with
pointed ends, and ali those imported from
England have come in that fashion. They
are only moderately broad and only the
man who wants his collar pulled especially
tieht knots them close y. one marked
change in style is the abandonment OF
The white tie for ordinary daytime dress
use It is practically only at weddings
that they ere seen nowadays. me haber-
dashers stiH display them in beautiful de-
tain nd
hut few men are seen in the daytime wear
ing one of them.
The expensive brown and gray deerskid
gloves are still those selected by the man
who does not think Of price, but of looking
the best limitations, particularly In the
gray, can be had now for very mucn
smaller sum than The genuine, ana are
effective enough when one cannot get the
others. Ordinary smooth dog skin is stu
proper. although the man who is interested
more in good dressing than in anything
else would never select them.
The brown linen waistcoats introduced
two years ago for winter wear, are as pop
ular as ever, and so are white waistcoats
made in the same fashion. These
are more likely to be seen
ion. These are more likely to be seen
th.n the colored cloth waistcoats which
are reserved by carefully dressed men
almost exclusively for wear at golf Even
the cloth waistcoats ornamented with de-
sigI.s or checks in color, are little used
excep; at golf.
Another change is to be noted in con-
nection with the knickerbockers for golf
and tennis They are not so loose as they
formerly were about the knee The ten
deucv is 10 make them tighter and to
use for the continuation the same ma
terial. rather than the whip-cord at one
time the fashion 1t is only the fancy
waistcoats that are made double-breasted.
Even the waistcoats intended for golf
have but the single row of buttons.
The silk hat of the year that comes from
England has less of curve than usual,
and Is for that reason rather trying to
men accustomed to recent styles. Derby
hats are smaller. with narrower brims
and a general tendency 10 inconspicuous-
ness.
In overcoats the much discussed raglan
Is too well known TO need any descrip-
ton The fashion Of wearing very loose
coats reappears periodically in mems
drese Sometimes il Is a box or driving
coat which is copied, just as the old rag
Ian IS this year The man who expects TO
wear his overcoat for several seasons is
advised not TO invest In a raglan, but to
choose a fashion likely 10 last longer. All
ne overcoats are made now IN "A way thar
e,,ids the lines OF the figure and allows
tbem 20 hang loosely from the shoulder.
The hard smooth cloths are very little
useJ except in the middle-weight raglans
as "A covert coat The raglans made in
dark grays have somewhat supplanicd
these as coats for Hight wear, put their
nre-.mironcc Is likely 10 be only tempo
INV Rough goods are used for the VIM
icr weight as well as for the lighter mid