The Anaconda standard. [volume] (Anaconda, Mont.) 1889-1970, 1899-02-26

this dotted gray net. wrinkled A very
small part of the bodice between the
guimpe and the lower part of the cor
sage Is OF dotted net. as is also a mar
row pouch vest. A slender cord of sill
Yer defines the waist. ACCOMMODATING
this gown is a hat in stitched gray vel
vet, heavy with white ostrich tips and
masses of white roses with foliage.
A gown of the same species is of cafe
au lat crepe, embroidered in broad
bands of silver, with an outline of black
chenille. The skirts overdrapery cross
es In front and is caught upon one hip.
AT the hem are displayed a series of
overlapping tlounces in cafe au lait
chiffon, mounted upon silk of the same
shade. The draped cOrsage of the crepe
with border of embroidery, carries
out the idea of the skirt design by be-
| ing fastened at one side There is no
waistband. The guimpe is of white gu.-
pure. over white sa lin, a shirred stock
of white chiffon forming the threat nm
ish. The sleeves are of the guipure, the
open space between the points along the
outer edges being crossed by narrow
lacings in silver cord.
For spring street wear nothing prom
ises to be more popular than the COM
blnation of checked cloth with plain
Heretofore, however, the skirt has been
or the check, While the jacket made use
OF the plain. A costume that is sure to
become popular has reversed this order
of things, and it is the skirt which is
the plain black serge, while the shep-
herds plaid in black and white is
monopolized by the Jacket bodice.
wealth of stitching trims the skirt st
the hem and up the front and down the
back. The jacket is also stitched the
applied bands of the plain cloth max
ing use OF it with smart effect. The
double breasted front is Of the plain
cloth. with small silver buttons by way
OF ornament cravat of white lace
and tulle is at the throat On the
wearer's head is a hat of unique shape
IN gray-Whlte felt, the round crown be-
ing clrcled with twist of black velvet,
While directly in front of it is a chou of
velvet and white flowers. A black os-
prey plume gives the required alti-
tude. ~
1t may be mentioned that the spring
skirts will be cut very much the same
as the winter garments. The methods
generally adopted in the makeup of
the dresses of to-day are:
F'irst-Skirt without seam, fastened
at the side, cut with selvage at the
top, selvage at the bottom, straight
behind and on, the bias in front
Second-Skirt in two breadths, which
may be equal, the seams being placed
exactly in the center behind and in
front, the skirt fastening down one of
these seams either in the back or in the
trent. This second method is the new
est and the most chic"
The breadth of a skirt with two seams
may also be unequal and cross one
over the other in such fashion that the
skirt fastens down the side. This ar
rangement appears to me to be the
prettest and most to be recon-
mended
Whatever course may be adopted
whether the fastening of skirt he
placed in front. behind or at the side, it
may be fixed by invisible buttons be-
meath tab-Which is never very flat
or by hooks also placed cr0sswise to the
edge of the skirt. This latter mode is
f1atter than the buttons, but is ra Their
difficult to hook.
The most convenient fastening is by
buttons covered with the dress mate
rial, to which are attached strings also
to match This is the simplest and most
practical fastening, but it is only suited
to Woollen materials, nC't to silks or
other light textures.
Sometimes, in the case of a small
black and white check silk, black but
tons are used for trimming rather than
check buttons especially if there s any
other black ornament on the coIsage
or skirt, such as braid, bands on the
bias or any fancy design.
The skirt made in two breadths is
generally better adapted to any figure
than skirt without seam. Although
fitting tightly at the hips. it outlines
the form less, because it is on the bias
behind. whereas the skirt in one piece
without seam is quite straight in that
part.
But the most "dressy" form of skirt,
and the easiest to succeed with, is in
three breadths with a very narrow
apron, the seams set diagonally at the
back. These three seams enable the
skirt to be perfectly adjusted, even on