The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1899-11-10
maaaaan#aasaans M ss-as#aasaaasaasssa
WOMAN'S WORLD.

variety is often attained for toques a1a
small hats by the manner OF arranging
the material with which the shape Is Gov
cred. be this velvet or piece felt, or :
combination of the two. and is best ex'
planned by descriptions of the most typ
cal among the latest models, says tht
Millinery Trade Review. Our genera
remark applies to a whole class; the GOV
ering is in one piece. say a square or q
circle cut out of a square measuring al
least double the iameter of the brim
A sailor shape is covered as follows witt
national blue yelvet.-0ne point is placed
at the back so that the velvet lies fiat on
the brim at the back and sides. The CEN
ter of the square is then folded SO as 10
form two wing-shaped flutes jutting out
on either side of the ierown; the three
corners remaining provide the loops and
cross-piece of a large bow for the front.
The trimming proper consists of four
wings made of green lophophore feathers.
two Of which are placed beneath the wing,
shaped flutes and one behind each loop of
the bow. For a toque turned up at the
side a circular piece of castor velvet is
chosen. The center of this is placed over
the low crown, moulding 1t closely; groups
of narrow tucks have previously been
- Ia liz FCiNCt GOHlE - -
the base of the crown nearly to the edge
of the brin; other groups of tucks-set
double as closely together and running in
the same dire~ction-begin about five
inches further on. so as to adapt this por-
ton of the velvet to the underside of the
Drim, the plain interval forming a loose
bouIllonne over the edge. One pale blue
wing IS placed on the left side against the
crown ana a second against the upturned
side Of the brim, and a little below it a
small pouf OF liberty to match.
Another way of covering toques is to
gather a circular piece of material half
way round its outer edge and draw it
up nearly to the size of the opening of the
crown to which it is tackled. and to leave
the remainder to be pleated in a large
double box pleat; the box pleat comes on
the left sid exactly, or just over the left
brow. Once this is accomplished, the
covering may be left as 1t is in a loose
sort of beret (when this is the case a
smaller circle of material is required). or
pleated or f1uted more or less so as to
adapt itself to the form underneath.
The former style is chosen for a toque
of pale beige angora felt. trimmed with
mounts made of the head and tail wings
of the tawny owl, set among the folds of
the b~ox-p1eat; the latter for an elegant
toque of dahlia colored. velvet. Three
folds are formed in the velvet, so as to
give the effect. of a triple border to the
brim, save where the box-pleat rises in
a high crest resting on a pouf of mauve
satin. The whole is -surmounted by three
double dahlias in three shades, running
from mauve to purple, fixed to the: crown
behind the pleat.
A piece of navy blue felt. the covering
of another toque, is arranged in straight
flutes lying on the bri41, while the pleat-
ed portion of the material slants back
over the crown, and in the centre of the
low pouf so formed is placed a handsome
fan-shaded arrangement of small palette
feathers surrounding the head of a bird.
Strings of some sort continue to be
worn with directories, but in some cases
it is merely al fold of ribbon that passes
under the chin and is fastened below the
left ear with a small bow The demand
for ribbons is somewhat limited, save for
the making OF large globuiar rosettes, one
among the many favored methods of trim
ming specialized for the decoration Of
hats with broad brims.
These include, besides directoire and
capelines, a very wide brimned hat of
undressed felt. to which the name of
Mexicaine has been given.
Both white and black felts look well
trimmed with globular r~osettes, made up
either of loops of ribbon or liberty satin,
attached to the side of the crown. In
either case one would be black and the
other white Sometimes wild brimmed
hats are bound with velvet, when two
shades of the same color may be chosen
for the rosettes.. Pale or mastic looks
Charming trimmed with two shades of
grayish green
So much is being done in the way OF
machine stitching that one is tempted to
think the fashion is destined to exhaust !
itself pretty quickly. Be this as ii may,
for the present it enjoys universal favor.
One of its simplest applications is in the
form of straight rows running down the
square or circular pieces of material used
to cover toque and small hat shapes.
Sometimes the rows are not at equal
distances from each other, sometimes
three. or four rows are grouped together.
Strips of velvet and felt are stitched
alongsfd, each other. so as to form
squares, the former folded double, the
later single. or strips of felt alone: in both
cases the edge of the felt are left raw.
Stitched bands of material are employed
in different ways. principally for making
bows, but also for binding round the
crowns of blocked shapes.
Shaded effects are in high favor. Some
milliners have revived a taste for shad-
ed velvets and ribbons. Pretty trimmings
are composed of velvet Shaded from deep
blue to sky, from crimson to light, and
from dull. pale green or gray to white.
now arranged in the form of poufs, now
of rosebuds, or else gathered and twisted
into long spirais extending half round the
like an Amazon plume. The flowers
chosen for trimming exhibit more often
than not several shades of one color.
l have seen many charming velvet
toques and felt hats trdmmed with shad-
ed velvet and satin roses, velvet peoples
and silk dahIias; the idea of reserving
flowers for the under side OF. brims seems
to be abandoned. They are often ar
ranged in a semi-coronet, lying on the
front part Of the brim, and finishing In a
bunch on the left side. The flower at the
extreme right will be of the same shade
as the velvet covering or felt shape. the
next somewhat lighter and so on, the
lightest forming the summit Of the bunch.
These arrangements are generally carried
out in evique violet, parma and rose