Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1899-09-10
NEW AUTUM Mn SHADES
GRAY MORE POPULAR THAN EVER
FOR TAILoR-MADE GOWNS.
CIRDLES ARE VERY FASHIONABLE,
Heavy Cotton shirt-Waists for WIN
ter-stamped out Trimming IA
hrics-Txvo Chic Tailor Gowns
Jackets of Black Taffetn.
For the Dispatch)

For the Dispatch)
The most prominent tints in the cate
CORY Of the new fail shades are willow
green. banana-yellow. periwinkle-oiue
bronze-brown ian effect produced by min
Cling peacock colorings with brown mul-
erry-reddsh-purplc, and many shades OF
hellos. Automobile-red will be popular
also. For tailor gowns. however, gray
takes tho lead as It did during the sum
mer. The shade used is called graphite
gray. 1t comes in beiges, eamels' hair
long-haired cheviOts. and serges; also III
broadcloth. These gray gowns are Tor
street and church wear, and are made up
in Jacket and skirt style, or In princess
shape. Contrary 90 all that we have been
taught to expect by leading designers and
dress-makers. skirts remain without full
ness or draping. In other words, the top
Of the skirt is still glove-htting, though
the length. even of tailor-mades. has in
creased. and the funess at the lower edge
IS more pronounced than ever. in really
handsome costumes. The nounce en-
forme Is n prominent feature OF some OF
the broadcloth gowns. Ii is not the Dew
ey flounce. with which we are familiar.
but a circular addition, about fourteen
inches deep. and IS added beneath rows
OF cloth strappings. or Of soutache. and
IS recognized as "a fOunce only by sharp
eyes. As for waists. the blouse style is
little seen: nevertheless, with the eXcep-
tion of tailOr-mades there are few darts
used. the fulness thus produced being re-
tanned by the band OF the skirt or by the
new grdle which now accompanies many
dresses. These are broad, loose and are
jewelled. or beaded. and fasten at the
back. beneath two clasps continue to fol-
low the wais, as Ear as the hips then de-
scend 20 the front In point about six
inches below the waist This is the Sa-
rah Bernhard effect Of which have al
ready written, and allows the robe 20 be
cut loose. the weight Of the beaded and
fringed girdle retaining the slight fulness
In place. This style relieves the pit OF
the stomach from pressure, and Is hygl-
enic, as well as graceful.
PLAID SKIRTS.
The present sheath shape o. skirts is
singularly adapted 30 plaids which are
again much I'm evidence on the counters
OF our best retail stores The softer color
ings. such as brown, dark gray, and a dul
red crossed by lines of c0loring only
triie lighter or darker than the bac
ground will be given the preference, q
take the lead in all soft long-haii'
goods. The bright Highland plaids W
no doubt find great favor with yovr
women; they are hgh-priced, howey.
which will somewhat restrict their pop
larity.
Cotton shirt-waists for winter wear az
being brought out by manufacturers. tn.
wearing OF cotton waists through the
cold season is a French fashion whica
has for some time found favor here with
women. who were not susceptible to colo
and who were lOath TO re,inquish the
freshness OF the Numbered waists. Tn
new French models are in cotton cOrdu
roy thick Marseilles, and embroiderc
heavy linen duck the colored figures O,
namented with heavy rows of machin,
stitching. will be very popular.
The grasshopper as mascot is real.
a craze Just now. This insect jewel come
IN different sizes, beautifully initiated u
enamel of shining green. with feet
gold and large ruby eyes. 1t Is worn
"a charm. a belt-buckle, and bracelet.
Is seen on the umbrella-handle, on pap
cutters, etc 1t IS even printed on lette
paper, when ones intimate friends "a
being written to.
STAMPED OUT TRIMMING FABRICS
These charming novelties are used ia
combination with plain fabrics and trans
II is produced in all-overs, which are dc
signed for yokes, sleeves. boleros, ana
even for entire skirts IL also comes IN
bands for trimming. The fabrics are
cloth and velvet. The material is stamp
ed out, producing an open work design
which Is embroidered In buttOn-hO.c
stitch in silk. 1t will also be used &c
wraps and jackets
l have told you that fouard gowns wi
be worn far into the autumn this yea
one of the most elaborate of these seci
this week. and destined for LenoX afte.
noon receptions, was OF deep amethyst
purple, spotted with white, a petits poi-
IL simulated a Princess dress and fasten-
ed at the back. The upper part OF the
bodice consisted of a deep yoke Of tuy-
quoise-blue satin, entirely yelled IN hama
some ivory guipure which concealed the
junction between - yoke and bodice. d.
being allowed 10 fall IN points over the
foulard. The sleeves are made also OF
the lace drawn closely over the pale-biuc
lining. No fulness was permitted urou
the shoulders. The hat was trimmed with
beautiful mauve conyOlvuli.
TWO CHIC TAILOR GOWNS.
Speaking Of Lenox reminds me Of two
chic tailor gowns l was shown az the
same time. These were destined for tw
autumn and LenoX as the opportunity
OF the year 10 display swell novelties The
first was a costume OF oliye-green tweed.
deckcd with brown leather. The skirt
was perfectly plain save for the rows Of
stitching on the lower edge, and the band
OF leather which edged the diagOnaly cut
pocket. just below the left hip. The waist
was an Elton coat with little simulated
vest OF green Highland plaid. This coat
was decorated with a snail simulated
boiero Of the brown leather. also with
bias bands OF the same. A Rough-Rider
hat In brown kid finished this cunning
costume. The second gown was also
decked with kid. and was a harmony Of
beaver tones. 1t had a perfectly glove
httng skirt, with an outside pocket set
on the left side. This pocket was six
inches square and had a flap at the top
winch buttoned down with two silver but
IONS. The waist was a blouse. in that
" had no darts. and that the fulness was
Drawn down Into tho KID belt. The fronts
opened over soft vest OF repped silk
snd were themselves edged with a small
nat vest Of Highland plaid A little bo-
zero or the kid with stitched edges went
over all The sleeves had deep cuffs OF
MO The suede used 10 decorate these
to"hs was OF a much paler shade than
sns material For Lenox. also. was a
s'1,h cape with deep revers 20 a high
eonar ana diagonal fastening with
mV'ai buttons There were some carriage
siaps also OF twilied silk, Of A make so
nm thst II would seem 10 Indicate mai
"eA'pion VI WOOL had found It's way into