The Topeka state journal., 1899-12-18

spreads out around the shoulders.
Quite the most fascinating of all the
things made OF fur are the bOas and
neck garnitures, which in variety of
style surpass all former seasons. Tails
and feet. and heads fitted out with glass
eyes, are the ch1eT Ornan1entatOnS, put
the varied modes of distributing them
produce some very charming effects.
The fox boa, made of two skins and
showing two heads. is one Of the most
elegant arrangements; but, whether
you have heads or not, tails and feet
are an Indispensable addition to any
sort OF FUR boa some OF the fur nuns
look like nests with a head peeping out
at one end and one or more tails at
the other. The large. round muff, with
a fringe of alternating tails and feet
across one side, is also worn, as well as
the made-up muff with circular frills at
either end. Another novel way of US
ing the animals head is at the end OF a
very long VictOrine, tails being the
finish for the other end Whatever kind
of muff you have, it must be large, soft
and entirely without stiffening. A con-
trasting fur is sometimes used for the
lining, but velvet and silk are more
commonly employed. A boa which
twists into a muH when one is needed,
and drops full length when it is not, is
one of the novelties
Horizontal effects are seen in some
of the capes and jackets The dark
stripes in the fur running around, in
stead of up and down in the usual way.
form a deep band around one of the
long threequarter coats. And again an
entire cape is made in this manner The
former. shown in the illustration, has
wide reVers of lace. Another Ions coat
of baby lamb shows a scallOped trim
ming of chinchilla. Something novel IN
a VictOrine is literally trimmed with
tails around the shoulders and fasten-
ed at the neck with a lace jabot, and
again at the waist with a fancy clasp.
one of the many combinations of fur
and lace is shown in a sable cape with
a lace yoke over satin.
A cloth gown trimmed with smoke fox
has the hood effect around the shoul-
ders. The color is pastel blue, and the
braiding is in black. EmbrOidering
caracul with jet is a freak of fancy this
season, and it IS used to form panels
down the sides of a cloth gown. This
fur, either with or without the en-
brOidery, is also used for bands inset
around cloth skirts. the cloth being cut
out over the fur and the edges finished
with rows of stitching.
Prettier. if possible, than any fur
jacket is the little Elton. made of black
velvet. with a two inch stitched band
finishing the edge and extending we'll
up the centre of the back. where it ter
inmates in a point A wide sable col
lar and reVerS are the CrOWning touch.
The dainty little collarettes of fur
and chiffon are the prettiest things
ina ginable with the light cloth con-
TUNES so much worn. Black cloth
gowns frightened by some color on the
bodice are in good style but it is cloth
in pale colors which has been most in
evidence SO far this season The dainty
tints lend themselves so prettily to all
the varying modes which fashion offers
that there is nothing which can sur
pass them for the all-around dressy
gown or the palmer tailor suit How
ever cloth in a dark rich shade of red
viii be more in evidence now that the
frost Is in the air, and there are some
very stunning gowns trimmed with
black Persian lamb. The bOIerO bodice
of one red cloth gown is entirely covered
with the cut-Out embroidery so effec-
lively done in cloth. 1t is really a cloth
guipure, with some of the open spaces
filled in with a fancy stitch in silk of
the same color. The edges of the Jack
ct are finished with fur and it is made
over white silk bodice having around
the waist rows of black velvet ribbon.
A simple but effective bodice of anOth-
er red cloth gown shows a yoke of
tucked white silk striped around with
bands of the cloth, edged with black
and white silk cord. Panne velvet a
shade lighter or darker than the cloth
is also for trimming the red gowns.
one thing not to be forgotten in the
accessories of this sort of dress is the
tint of the lace which may be used.
Some women seem to think that cream
lace is in good taste with any color.
but a single experiment with the more
suitable ecru tints viii prove that red
is one exception to the rule It is har-
mony in color rather than striking
contrasts, which is the chic thing this
season, and shade of pink velvet is
extremely pretty as a finish for collar
and sleeves OF the red cloth costumes.
on must be very particular about the
tint, however If you can fancy one
that would result from mixing white
with the red. Of your gown you have
the correct thing
pretty costume in the soft fawn
colored cloth shown has one OF the new
plated skirts and a trimming of lace
and tiny mirror velvet bands around
the hips. Pale pink is the color of the
velvet which appears again in a tuck
ed revers with a guipure lace finish
There are some very charming velvet
gowns this season made With the Elton
coats, and trimmed around the shaped
HOunce with narrow shaped ruffie in
which two large cords are Shirred. a
novelty in skirt decoration for both
velvet and cloth skirts is four sash
ends made of the material, with seal
lOped edges, all lined with satin of the
same color, and finished with two or
three rows of stitching. These fail
straight down. one on eithed side of
the plait in the back. and one on each
hip. They widen toward the hem of the
skirt and are caught down enough 10
keep them in place.
Pretty dressy gowns which can be
made to serve the double purpose of
semi dress and full evening dress. are
always in demand, and here is a urerty
model for crepe de chine in any tint
trimmed with cream lace The nova
bic yoke OF lace is arranged to so over
rather than under the low-cuJ neck.
and 1t extends down between the cross
ed folds of the fichu a good sue4ges-
tion for the lace yoke when a lining is
required is that it ought TO be OF some
LHlAS without gloss. SometnIEg duh in
finish, SO that it shall not be noticed
For theater wear there is nothing
quite so desirable as thu dressy seoa-
rate waist and the one made Of lace is
the correct thing. 1t is very much
changed. however from these worn in
the summer, as it secures 4 warmer
richer look from having inset 81 LecIaI
designs in colOre1 velvet. The edges
of the velvet are flushed in vari 5us
ways. with silk cord lace braid. or Some
embroidery stitch in silk. and gold anc
silver thread are sometimes added This