davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-12-24

crepe is wound around the whist 10 hold thu dtcss
in right position over this comes the belt proper.
II Is often at lcas, sixteen inches wide made n
material like canton flannel. Some Of h,sc
brocade belts with laccs. which como from lno
II takes a good deal Of skill To get the h It, On
Just right, and large part of h'JapHnrsc girls
education consists in learning Sactly how Toe dot.
Il taught princess Oncr who was very Cl,Se
up TO the throne. She would come 10 my houss
with several attendants and in The most costly
Iobrs, but II the weather was warm she would 10
"'rhc hal, is dtcss"d very csboratcly end al.
ways by har.drcSscr The fashion If putting
tho hair over cushions or rats az scnGol girls
call them, is n Japan, So importation. h" past
fashion too, II wearing bangs comes from an.
other Japanese way Of wearing tho hair They
fix their hair once. or at most twice, week, AZ d
y stays hScd till tho hair dresser calls again
For fear that the structure will get ,umhlcd when
she is asleep. the japanese girl dispcn%s with
pillows, and sleeps With wooden rest under tho
back Of the meek and the head quite unsupported.
Very uncomfortable II must ~, but a japanese
girl like nh American girl will do great deal
for the sake " appearing we'll
Etiquette Is AN important rnrt OF JhpancSs
girls education. Thcrc professors Of etiquette
In Japanese schools, Just as there are professors
Of languages and gih must know how 4, enter
n room. how To- introduce. and all the numbcrleSI
rules 81 precedence. All mcn, ~ c'urSr, to-"
rrrc"dnncc 81 all women. unless they have bc'
'hriSianizrd; then they assume our ways with
womanLnd
one. specimen Of their exaggerated politcncs,
y IN their snlnlation Where We would shy
i am glad 10 sec yuu they would say i hang
upon your honorable cyclids.
the japanese girl is apt to b. incident Knit.
that the Europeans have laugh, them other kinds
Of fancy work, they, 60 wild with delight over
battlcdorc and shuiilccock They do This a
great Gcal locking pretty and pic when
1T was always very hard Tor the missionaries
10 get hold Of the women of the family When
they called only the men and children. would
appear and when the wife asked Tor ~
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-12-24
JAPANESE GIRLS At HOME,
Their Chief Concern In tho Matter Of Dress
Has to DO with the Belt.
From ne Baltimore .S,w

From ne Baltimore E,Bs.
Miss Ethel Maud Sopcr. a student at the Wo-
mans Cohege, was born in Japan and lived
there long time She is the daughter Of
the Rev. Julius Sopcr Of the Methodist Church
who has been missionary in Japan. Miss Soper
spoke as follows Of the differences between a Jap.
ancsc giri and an American girl:
"To begin with the babies: They are as much
pctted and INDUCED as the most spoiled darling
In all the United States Everything is done To
make childhood a happy time. Toys are iav-
ished on them. Seeding is almost unhcard o.
The pride Of every woman is her children. and
as a result the children rule the house. | once
ton during the night, and next morning IL was
learned that !he ittie glIi Of ihe household had
for q boat ride, Her wish was gratincd.
Next 10 the babies, the old women have the
greatest number OF privileges Some one has said
The grandmotheIs rule the empire II is when
she Is grandmother that woman gets honor in
the household Age Of course, is greatly reycr
ton is And what might be Your honorabI age"
And you may be sure that II the answcrer be
IapnnsEse E, she Tl give her fun and even be
pnsaole question in polite society. There IL
even special costume which oniy women II over
40 may wear The long, dull-colOred garment
can not be altered but the lining Of the sleeves and
neck piece are made o1 the most brilliant scarlet
Inc sandals are laced with scarlet thongs, and
q close skull cap of the same colors completes
the drcsH
The dress OF a japanese girl il made of straight
PIECES sewcd together ,;,apaness sewing is very
gathers no bias folds the fashions never change
and girl may wear her mother OF grandmother =
lrock without thought al III or fashion. There
are however, prescribed dresses for different
classes Of society. Japanese can ten at a glance
Dui Europ can will get hopclcsSly bewilderod
q, tho class distinction Indicated by n tiny thread
81 color In the sleeve a slight variation in tho way
Of wearing the hair WY
j, mo upper class japanese girl usually has
lhe loosc upper garment Of some dull color lined
WIN brighter tint Our fashion Of putting brigh,
SUI Innings IN our coats came from Japan. A
Dali dress might be Of a doyC-colorcd CTcpC with
q pink lining: the skirt showing bcnrath ihis
might bc hand painted most deliberately Th"
neck piece showing above the loose outer gar.
mented. "'''''' ''""
"But The most interesting article Of a Japanese
girls toilet 10 herself is her belt First width OF
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-12-24

bocro coats and pretty little quilted satin Jackets
TO wear underneath. Fur coats unless they are
made of baby lamb and very short. are not no
enviablc possession at the moment, as IL is the
outline Of a pretty figure which gives the style to
a winter costume, II is decidedly one thing or
the other \ woman Is either clad in cloth suit
which apparently might be worn in the balmy
weather Of spring, except for the fur trimming,
she Is cnvcl"pcd in a long garment which COM
plctcly covers her gown
\ pretty model illustrated in palo gray cloth
shows tho box plated skirt with plain front
breadth, with stitching for a finish. Rovers Of
cloih aud lace threaded with silver and iace
yoke over cream satin decorate tho bodice. which
IL also plated, and scarf Of pink crcpo do Chino
with silk fringe on the ends IL knotted at side
skirt tucked in groups one on either side Of the
front and one on each side Of the box plalt In the
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-12-24

dressy whist and very. much stitched skirt, and
one Of some Of the pastel ,ints claboratcly trimmed
with embroidery, or 9th Euipurc \ sensible
feature Of the frs, mentioned costume Is that II
is sometimes made u the doublciaccd cloths.
very fine in quality. and these require no lin
ing the advantages are evident. OF course this
sort Of costuuoc is madr with Il Jacket, the Eton
variety we'll fitted in being preferable. and Is
worn over a flannel ~ elk shirt waist The
skirt is plain and rows Il stitching are the finish.
II is the drcssy cloth gown which is interesting
however and there is no limit to the yHricty II
styles and modes Of decoration. The cloth gown
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-12-24

novel in effect rs the velvet is used for tho bodice
and sleeves bands Of the cloth more than an inch
wide partially cover the velvet four Of them for
ming partial yoke. intcrlnccd with five vertical
bands which extend to the waist line. Bands Of
cloth trim the sklr, up and down, with wide spaces
between and three crossing bands cncirclc the
hips
The ruling idea for street costumes this season
il Ia have the appearance Of not being dressed
fer really winter weather, with all the necessary
warmth supplied aud ~ cicycfly disguised that
it is not suspected. There are intcrlinings OF
chamoS skin and flannel in the iaunty little
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-12-24

all around the skirt with spaces between tho
tucks. feature Of the gowns where these tucks
are employed is that the bodice is usually tucked
TO match. A skirt which is found in Paris
In thin materials is box plated oil around Tho
plaits meeting. and being well caught down to
the knees, below which they flare out gracefully.
In another model the pats begin at either side
Of the front and in both they well pressed
and very fiat around the hips with no effect of
fulness. Again the box plaits are arranged
with spaces between, which arc fitted in with
a lace insertion This is very pretty for crepe
de Chino and the fine thin poplincttcs so much
used Three rows Of insertion cncircling the
hips Of a closely plated skirt arc very effective
using the top one for the belt finish and having
wide spaces between. Other skirts are plated
after the manner Of Scotch kill the plaits being
caught down in the usual way, The box plnits
are usually graduated n little in width, which
improves the effect, and the skirt below where
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-12-24

made into n complete sui, so thattis warm enough
for street wear is decidedly tho swell thing to have
The fact may bring some comfort, tooto the
woman who cannot afford an entire FUR Jacket.
Fur is used in most extravaganza quantities. ~
course. hut very pretty costumes are made with
only n fur collar and rcvcrS. One gown in castor
colorcd cloth has a deep band Of mink round the
skirt n wide collar and rcvcrs Of fur which also
trims the edge OF the polonaisc opening at one
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-12-24

II IL 70 well confined below the hips that the eff
feet IL much the same. II Is only when you at
tempt 20 gather II UP In hand 10 keep its trail
ing length out Of the dust, that you are sppre-
cisbly conscious Of the difference.
One pretty skirt which is plain one with an
addition, Ia tucked in groups Of three small tucks
all the way around, Is stitched down TO within
nine inches Of the hem and fits the hips quite as
closely as the habit skirt. All the skirts how
ever they may be plated, are gored in a pretty
naring shape so there is no supcrhuous fullness
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-12-24

side The quantity Of fur used is limited by tho
length OF the purse in most cases yet this sort of
gown is more suitable for carriage than for street
wear. pretty maTyc cloth Is trimmed with
bands OF chinchlla up aud down the skirt and the
Eton Jacket has wide llarng collar and draped
rcvcTs of chinchilla.
A very pretty model for dark blue cloth made
with plain skirt and box plat AT the back, has
a bolcro bodice pointed in front where II opens
over black velvet waiStCoat covered with rows Of
white stitching and fastened with steel buttons
Achcmisettc Of white embroidered muslin strapped
across with velvet bands fills in the space above
Rows Of stitching are the finish around the skirt
and the edges of the Jacket The combination 81
brown cloth aud plum colorcd velvet Is rather
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-12-24
FRfLLS OF FASHION.

The black satin opera cloak with round hood
and fAcings Of white velvet Is one among the
many elegant evening wraps The edges all
around arc trimmed with white fox and the high
collar In also OF fur, Again We see capcs OF
heavy lace over a white or colored satin lining,
and trimmed with chiffon frills and marabout
foat
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-12-24

forming the contrast In trimming One very
stunning costume Of this cloth and color Is made
with narrow front breadth set in like tablier
front with tho sides tapping over this The edges
are cut in medium sized, rather broad points,
which are finished with piping Of black satin.
A separate piece also cut in points Is added under
meath both edges to give the double effect and
an inch-wide band Of satin extends from these
points all around the skirt directly on the edge,
headed by a row Of black silk braid put on in
simple coil design. The bodice Is an Elton coat
meeting tho waist line all around and quite close
hitting. The satin forms a belt finish shaping
up TO point in the middle Of the back and half
girdle effect at either side OF the 'front.' Medium
sizes revers and Turn down collar edged with
the satin band and braid complete this little Jacket
The vest and collar band Of white cloth tucked
crosswise and band OF cloth like the gown cut
In points is arranged TO turn in on either side
OF this white vest from underneath the revers.
The skirt has one double box plat at tho back.
The battle Of skirts seems TO have been tenn.
porarily settled. leaving very few doubts as to
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-12-24

One Of the exquisite little daintes OF fashion
is the opera hood, which has blossomed out In
most enchanting designs this season. II is not
altogether new for II was here last winter but IL
displays facility for variation not equaed
before. A sensible difference too is in the uso
Of the wire frame which serves To keep tho hair
in its original condition, while the hood without
any stitfening will muss the locks no other
headgCar can, Ono pretty model in black liberty
satiu turns back from the face with wide band
OF yellow satin which lines the hood and IL FIN
shed on the edge with little frlll Of black gauze
ribbon. The hood gathers in at the back OF the
neck where the narrowcst possible frill forms
in closely all around while tho strings arc long
scarf ends Of yellow chiffon, This kind Of hood
Is not made in a frame, but has a still interlining
10 keep il In place. The dainucst things are made
OF white chiffon and white liberty satin on wire
frame. The latter is practically the lining, and
tbs chiffon which IL plated covers this and forms
plated jabot frills for strings, Chiffon rosettes
While gnuze ribbon joined with an open work
stitch. and made over white satin with chiffon
frills for o finish Is another pretty hood The
absence Of any cape Is noticeable feature In all
the hoods. Some Of them combined with a
little shoulder cape which. like the hood Is M ade
Of aco over COlOrcd satin and finished with chiffon
frills, Hoods are made Of velvet too and tcimmcd
with flow crs and lace around the face. Where
wire frame is not desired there In very stiff
for an interlining. Hoods which not made
on wire frame arc wired around the face 10 ma Ike
them stand out from the head n little Spanglcs
and iewclled clasps figure on some Of those little
head coverings usually when gauzc is the ma teria
on the outside.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-12-24

back, is tho feature Of the next Imodc, with a
tucked silk yoke, gupure lace finish and a velvet
bow at one side Beaver colorrd rough cloth
forms another costume made with an Eton Jacket
and trimmed with black satin bands and black
silk braid, pastel osccolorrd sa,in-Rnshed
cloth shows bodice Of ccru guipure, over which
is bolCro Jacket made entirely Of folds Of cloth
The knottcI acari Is II black satin, and the skirt
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-12-24

On one white waist tho bands are sewn along
the edges with fine gold bcads and small crochet
buttons through tho centre fully two inches apart
Stitched-down tucks meeting in the centre Of
the front show another variety 81 the tucked
skirt with double box plat at the back. Bands
Of cloth finish tho edge. and the bolero made OF
bands with stitched edges falls over wide en-
pirc belt ~ velvet The rest Is Of white tucked
silk with lace scarf A pretty skirt for crepe
de Chine Is closely boy plated all around in two
inch box plaits caught down closely with lace
insertions. finished on the edge with gathered
baby ribbon. A frill " white point d'csprit also
edged with lace insertion, is added at the hem
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-12-24
Belts with q rather wide fringe sewn on IN,
lower edge are one Of the many iads Of fashion

The smart house blouse for morning wear
Is made of satin faced cloth in some Of the pertty
light colors II is usually made with French
back, tucked TO meet in a point al the middle
seam, II you like. or quite plain. The front is
tucked at either side To throw some fulness over
the bust and open over full vest Of white liberty
silk. The edges are finished with a stitched
band 81 silk or panne matching the cloth The
collar CATS and belt are also OF stitched silk.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-12-24

the fashionable choice between the habit back
skirt and the plated skirt, There are various
kinds Of plated skirts but the latest reports from
Paris verify all the early predictions for the uti-
mate success Of the plaits We are warned that
the habit skirt doomed; soiti plats sure enough
II you would be up 10 date, blessings brighten
as they take their flight, and now that the skirt
without plaits is going, II has been discovered
that It is infinitely lighter and easier to manage
In the street than any Of the newer models. and
made as II is, with the fastening al one side of
the 'front.' there Is always the certeinty that there
IL no gaping al the back, One thing for which
to he thankful IL that We have not Jumped from
The plain graceful skirt TO one Of unwieidy and
uoPpy proportions. The fulncss IL there but
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1899-07-28
RAILWAY ITEMS.

Louis Hill, Of the Great Northern, re-
turned yesterday from a ten days visit
to the Yellowstone park
General Freight Agent Moore, Of the
Northern Pacific, will return from his
Alaskan trip the latter part OF this
month.
President and Vice President J. NJ.
FannafOrd, of the Northern Pacific, who
are making q daylight inspection trip
over the cOmpanys lines, viii complete
their work and return to st. Paul early
in August.
One-haIf fare rates have been granted
for harvesters over the Western lines
and are in effect today: They will con-
tinue until the middle of August.
The Northern Pacific will bring in a
large party of Yellowstone tourists this
morning at $50 They will arrive in st.
Paul on a special train. The party in
cludes the Campbell party, from Chicago;
the Brooklyn Eagle party, in charge of
MIA and the North Pacific coast, and a
number of smaller parties, numbering in
all $50 persons.
The effect of the increase in Yellow
stone park business this year is felt by
the Northern Pacific in the demand for
accommodations. This years business
will be larger than ever before. A tele-
gram received yesterday from Cinnabar,
the nearest point to the park stated that
waiting for parties making trips through
the park
J. H. Sayle, Of Chicago, chief clerk to
General Agent TuOhy at that point, has
been selected chief clerk in the offices of
the general superintendent of the Great
Western at st. Paul He will assume his
new duties July 81.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1899-07-28

STATE OF MINNESOTA, COUNTY OF
Ramsey-ss. Probate Court.
In the matter of the estate of Robert 8.
Buck deceased -
Letters of administration with will an
nexed on the estate of Robert s. Buck
deceased, late of the County of Cumber-
land, and State of New Jersey, being
granted TO Edwin NJ Ware.
II appearing on proper proof by affidavit
of the administrator with will annexed
made and filed herein, as provided by
law, that there are no debts against the
estate of said Robert S. Buck, deceased
1t is ordered, That three months be and
the same is hereby allowed from and aft
er the date Of this order, In which all per-
sons having claims Cor demands against
the said deceased, If any there be, are re-
CURED to file the in the Probate
Court of said County,lfor examination and
allowance, or be forever Barred.
It is further ordered, b That the first
Monday in November, 1899, at 10 o'clock
a. M, at a General Term of said Probate
Court, to be held at. thegCourt House In
and the same hereby Is appointed as the
time and place when and where the said
Probate Court will examine and adjust
said claims and demands.
And 1t is further ordered, That notice of
suoh hearing be given to all creditors and
persons interested in said estate, by forth
with publishing this order once In each
st, Paul Gil b g, a daily newspaper
printed and published IN said county.
Dated at st. Paul, this 18th day Of July,
BY the Court: e, W. BAZILLE,
Stringer & Seymour,
Attorneys for Administrators
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1899-07-28

STATE OF MINNESOTA, COUNTY OF
Ramsey-ss. Pr obate Court.
In the matter of proving the alleged last
will and testament of Guy Wells de-
ceased.
Whereas, Carrie w. Rossen of the
County of Ramsey, and State of Minne-
sofa, has delivered to the Probate Court
OF the County of Ramsey an instrument In
writing purporting to be the last will and
testament of Guy Wells, late Of Ramsey
County, Minnesota, deceased, and filed
herewith her petition to said Probate
Court, praying that the said instrument
may be proved and admitted to probate
and that letters testamentary be granted
thereon to Carrie w. RosselI, Kate w
Codding and Robert Ross Wells
It is ordered, That said petition be heard
and the proofs of said alleged will be
taken at a special term of this Court. to
be held at the Court House. in the CITY
of st. Paul, in said County on Wednes-
day, the 9Th day of August 1899 at 10
o'clock in the forenoon, when all persons
interested may appear for or contest the
probate Of it; and that notice of such
hearing be given to all persons Interested
by publishing this order once in each week
for three successive weeks prior to said
day Of hearing, in the ST. Paul G o b e.
daily newspaper printed and published in
said County.
Dated at st. Paul, this 18th day Of July.
O.. 50 E. w. BAZILLE
Judge of Probate.
The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1899-07-28

There must be fitting formality observ-
ed when Mayor Kiefer and County Audi
tor w. R. Johnson meet for the possI-
BILE election of an assessor, according to
an announcement made by the mayor
at an informal conference held yester-
day noon with Mr.. Johnson. The mayor
proposed further that each choose four
or five friends to see fair play, meet at
some convenient time and place with
plenty of elbow room, elect chairman
and secretary, and then fight it out. The
talked of election, however, Is still as far
away as it was two months ago.
Mr.. Johnson says the mayors proposal
is a bowling farce, with the parts somev
thing like this: Chairman, Mayor Kie-
fer; secretary and treasurer, County Au-
ditor Johnson; peasants and others. He
is, however, willing to play.
When the delega ton of Second ward
ers finally succeeded in corralling the
mayor in his office Wednesday morning
and urged him to unite with the county
auditor in the election of Gregory Ritz
as assessor, the latter, according to the
committee, attempted to lay the blame
white head of the county auditor He
had, he said, written Mr.. Johnson ask
ing for a conference and had received
no reply. Then the auditor was subject
ed to an Overhauling in which he de-
clared that he had offered to meet the
mayor, but the latter had apparently
misconstrued his position. He was will
ing to have an amicable conference to
talk over the situation. The conference
Yesterday noon was the result
I'VE did not talk about Ritz or any
other man for the aSSeSSOrShip, said
County Auditor Johnson yesterday. We
had an amicabIe talk together, and then
he sprung his proposition. 1t was for
each of us to bring four or five friends
at some appointed time and place ard
then elect a chairman and secretary and
proceed with due formality. l suppose
he would have a treasurer also and
double up on the offices, as there are only
two of US interested.
His proposition is a rank farce. The
idea of electing a secretary and chair
man is ridiculous. If we agree on any
one. why would it not be better with
us two together? We could discuss mat
ters and if We came to an agreement
simply make out the appointment with
out any fuss about it. L told him that
l would agree to his plan if it pleased
him. We did not say anything about
when the meeting will be held.
Il proposed that we meet with due for
mality, because L believe that things
should be done in the right way" was
the statement of Mayor Kiefer. Some
body suggested that Mr.. Johnson might
steal a march on the mayor by electine
his honor chairman. In that case he
could only vote on a tie, and as Mr..
Johnson is unanimous with himself
there would be little chance of that con-
tingency arising.