The times., 1899-03-12
Spring HATS Will
suit EVERYBODY
Straws That Show How Fash
ions Fancies Blow.
Giant Blossoms and Cock Piumes
Divide Popularity.
Shapes That ChnIfenGc Soiomon's
Denial That There Are New
Things Under the sun.

New York. March 1.-THE spring pa
geant in millinery is opening most pro-
pitiously, and with fun a score of novel
ties. The first comers in the shop windows
are always the walking and travelling,
golfng and shopping straws, and there is
not a possibly unbecoming shape in the
list.
A style that commands attention is the
golfers treasure, with stiff cream straw
alpine crown and a brim of scarlet or
plaid. or tan brown felt, bound with a
broad gros grain ribbon. a wing and twist
of silk. or belt of gros grain ribbon,
drawn through a gray enameled buckle At
one side, is the type of trimming advo-
Gated. These comfortable, sensible little
hats won't out-rival, though, the inevita-
BILE straw sailor, which is already bobbing
up serenely in new guise. Mixed straw
is what the best sailor is woven Of, and a
good, pliable, fine straw at that, TO allow
of rather wider brims and very much
larger, taller crowns than we have had in
long time.
A great many of the prettiest outing
hats are in an exaggerated sailor shape
and made to be trimmed. Their tall crowns
are llSDer benlnO lDGn before, ana lHS
decoration is done in swattings and loop
ings of brilliant taffeta, with wings or
quilts. There is another sort Of very cap
tivating sailor in the newly arrived milli-
merry stock called the Canadian. Just
why Canadian it is hard 10 say. for the
name does not describe its low crown with
followed top, its wide brim that curls
upon the edges and its crown band nearly
as white the crown itself. Canadian
a fIn-tOD Sul-Slale and
you can buy il in a straw as fine and as
soft as panama.
Next in order of merit is the done-oyer.
reviyihed Alpine, which you can have in
the smart Homburg or Cape Town shape.
A Homburg is pearl gray felt affair with
a wide unusually wide, curly brim sweep
ing away from lofty crown and rejoicing
in a decoration of gray, or gold, or green
cock plumes in a thick tuft TO one side.
Cape Town shape is exactly the same thing
with the difference that on one side the
wide brim is drawn up and made fast to
the crown by a tuft of Quills, while the
other side Of the brim bends down over the
face and hair.
To turn from counter full OF things
jaunty and taut is to arrive at show
case full of the small straw toques and
bonnets that will prevail later On. You
can match in straw toque any ging-
ham or muslin in your summer roper
tory OF gowns, so various are the colors
OF the straws, and, best OF al. you can
very nearly afford tt have hat TO match
eyery cotton dress. since these straw top
knots are not expensive: and they need
the merest handful cf trimming. Some OF
them are seif-trimms with their own &C.
centric twisted brims. knots, a-d ro--s an
loops of straw, and they al have names.
The Trelawney, Lady May, and dozens
more are hot fayorites among the buyers,
who have got TO wear these triies lar
back on their heads and wear wi,h hsm
the gsyest of wells.
More serious consideration, also n high
er price must be paid the last Partisan
fancy In delicate, charming hats woven Of
Tne grass with straw. one virtue of the
grass hat is that il can be crushed into
bali between the hands and yet smoOthes
out into as gracious. shapely helmet as
was ever seen. All the tender, minor
colors Of the natural grasses, the greens,
browns grays. yellcv-s. and dull reds are
thus made fashionable, and in the way OF
spring color there is nothing more ad
mired than cured hay green"
Flowers TO pile with ribbons on these
straw foundations are coming in rapidly.
and there seems a perfect madness for
using just one or two abnornaily big
blossoms in hat architecture, in place of
natural looking clusters and sprays. Per-
feet scraps Of capotes will show just one
giant lilac orchid. rising from a skim
OF tulle or tangle of ribbon
Red and white and mottled ueonies
are al the top OF the flower basket. and
the women exhaust admiring adjectives
over the .mauve silk roses each one the
size Of a youthful cabbage. The smaller
posies hays sneaked out of sight, and the
pride Of the milliners heart is centered in
the large wedge and sail-shaped wings
Of net decorated with arabesques OF fine
steel or chip beads. She can truthfully
tell you that the proudest plume in the os-
trlch's tail will not be so fashionable
later on as the least OF these artificial
ornaments, and she can show as well
large spoon-shaped wings made of thin
silk shirred onto loops of wire, besides
handsome crystal beetles and butterflies
to serve as buckles and ornaments.
Delicate and lovely bonnets promise to
take all their plumage in the shape OF
snow-white and clouded gray gull wings
Epringing from beds OF violets and the fash
iouable artificial violet is not fully ex-
panded blossom. a knot OF budding pur-
pie beads, interspersed with half unfolded
green leaves, is the preference everywhere
and the color combined with vi0Iets on all
headgear is pale blue. A crown OF hall
blown English violets, on foundation ot
faint azure tulle, is the most captivating
conceit for theatre use, or pudding toqu'
Of loose woven violet straw will be appro
priately wreathed with blue tulle and for
get-me-nots ali fastened down with imita
tion turquoise brooches.
The only brimmed hat of importance thi
season will be the soft black chip fiat, un
der which pretty young face shows to eX
cellent advantage. These will have thei
brims faced inside with rows upon rows 0
gathered narrow ribbon. and can be al
lowed TO flop at their own sweet langui'
will, or tackled upon one side in Ruben
form with a great cockade Of roses restini
almost on the hair and the crown trim
ming done in crushed chiffon, lovely mil
linery drapery new 10 this season.