Omaha daily bee., 1899-05-28

stocks a wardrobe when the purchasing is
| done at any of the leading tailoring estab-
| ishments. Since the spring fashions crys-
| talliZed two or three important facts have
| been made evident concerning the dress OF
| American men. The first is that the padded
| coat is no longer a strange and interesting
| object. London tailors nearly always pad
| frock and evening coats, and artfully build
| a mans shoulders to the form they should
| have, and not on the shape they may nat
urally display. Every man, says the English
| tailor, has a right to squared. broad shoul-
ders, and If nature has denied him his birth
| right it's the tailor's duty to make good the
| loss.
| Fashions from France.
I The New York tailor was slow to adopt
this subterfuge, but the first step has been
made and henceforth customers will not
even be asked whether they wish their
shoulders made for them or not The tailor
wild shape the top of this garment, send it
home and safely trust that no man, when
he has observed himself in his new habit,
will dare to have the scientific padding
| ripped out New York tailors and those
in other large cities put forth most new
| fashions as of English origin, but as a
matter of fact a great many of our best
| fashions come from Paris, and, though an
Englishman would cheerfully lay him down
and die rather than display on his person a
| Gallo style, the American man knows no
such prejudice.
For example all the gay silk, Isle and
cotton hose on the market this season, the
| butterfly neck bows, the white spats with
summer shoes worn in the afternoon, the
new shape of top hat and yet more details
| of dress on this order are direct importa-
| tions from Paris.
Frenchmen have an inbred fondness for
wearing jewels and the rings and watch
chains we have adopted of late are all done
on the Partisan pattern. One detail of the
toilet, now most popular in Paris, the
| American, however, is too nearly related to
| the Anglo Saxon to adopt, and that is
artifcially curled hair. OnduleS and creped
| tresses are dominant, even universal, in the
| gay capital and they are secured by exactly
| the same means that the genter sex em-
| ploys. A good French valet numbers among
his accomplishments the art of waving hair
with hot or cold tongs. but it is here that
the American draws the line, and takes his
hair straight-even more rigidly straight
and closely plastered to his. scalp than his
British brother.
Top Coats.
Men and their tailors have come to an
agreement as to the continued fullness of
driving coats that show curiously short
shoulder seams, for in order to give ample
room at the armhOle, the sleeve is set into
rather tremendous orihce. made by cut
ting out generously on the shoulder. Also
it is the rule to bring the seam OF the
sleeve to the upper side Of the arm and at
its top to make exact junction with the one
on the shoulder. In the rear strap is
often introduced across the shoulder blades
to the effect that a double pointed yoke is
simulated and this is done chiefly to lend
an appearance OF extra shoulder width, that
the big armhole and high set sleeve doAs so
much to counteract
This is the type OF coat that men who own
motor vehicles and maneuver them with
their own hands rare wearing, for that which
is good enough to drive a horse in is quite
suitable for a smart automobile For bad
weather a smart leather motor carriage coat
is the proper garment. Plable, waterproof
brown leather is what this coat is made of.
The leather is so treated that 1t sheds rain
like rubber, and yet 1t is not hot nor stiff
and intolerable even, as the best macintosh
invariably is in summer weather. motor
coat drops nearly to the knees has an
abundance OF pockets inside and out, on the
five fiat buttons that close II in front the
owners initials are usually etched, and
rather shallow Prussian collar completes 1t
at the neck,
For Sporting Wear.
Norfolk Jackets used to be the ideal sum
mer sporting coats when a simple REFER or
blazer was not worn. This summer the
golfng, fishing and shooting men are all
going to wear the Westbury which is moth
ing more than Norfolk, with al! sorts OF
patent appliances. The broad boxplait
strans that used 10 ornament the Norfolk