The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1899-07-05
Not Over, Writes Miss Emma
Rely From Alaska.
More People, Ten to One, Than
Two Years Ago.
is PLENTY TO EAT
And the Prices Are Reasonable,
She Declares.
The Topeka Girl Finds Many
Improvements.

The following letter appears In the
Chicago Record of July from Miss
Emma Kelly, under date of Lake Ben
nett. n. W. T. June 6:
Again I find myself on the shores of
Lake Bennett, on my way to Dawson
over the route traversed almost two
years ago, when on my first visit to
the K1Ondike. But how unlike my nrsL
journey is the present trip Ehen
Travelled the route in september anu
October; this time in May ana June.
The first trip was made at the begin
ming of winter, the present upon the
opening of summer in this latitude In
1897 1 landed at Taiya and crossed chi
Root pass on foot with no companions
save my motley com binat1on of packers
TO whom 1 paid 40 cents a pound 10
carry my luggage over the summit MY
pressing this trip was from Skaguay
over White pass, and the change InaI
has taken place in the Scant two years
since I first visited the settlements OF
these northern regions scarcely can be
imagined.
In September, 1897. Skaguay was but
a cluster of tents, with few rude
shanties and log cabins, and with no
hotel accommodations aside from a rev
bunkhOuses and lunch counters Today
st is quite a compact little city, with
many good buildings. 1t has also no
tel run on the American and European
plans, with bathrooms and electric
lights, and, the prOprietOr'S letter
head states, large corral and dog ken
nels in connection.
The steamer on which I took passage
on my second trip left Seattle about the
2Oth of May, our journey up the coast
to Skaguay having been most delight
full There was no bad weather, While
the magnificent coast scenery afforded
the passengers constant pleasure AS
between May and September, however,
] prefer the latter month for the north
ern journey. as there is less likelihood
of meeting cold gusts of wind from the
icy regions. Our party of 10 LETT Ska
quay on the morning OF June :, anu,
crossing the pass, we arrived at Lake
Bennett on the evening of the same
day. From Skaguay we Travelled for
20 miles by rail to the summit Of White
pass, over the most wonderful narrow
gauge railroad ever constructed. The
road winds its serpentine course through
grand mountain scenery and crosses
vast glaciers. Arriving at the summit,
we left the railroad, as that is its ter
minus. and took passage in big bob
sled" drawn by four horses, in which on
June . We crossed Summit lake on the
ice, a distance of u miles. Even at the
great altitude of this northern latitude
it was getting late to cross on the ice,
and ours was the last party of the sea-
son to attempt it.
Our sled broke through the ice in
many places, and, getting into the wa
der several times, our clothes were thor
Oughly soaked With wet garments it
proved a very cold ride, and it seemed
certainly should freeze However, we
crossed IN SaIeLN, ana from the 1901 OF
the lake we walked two and One-haH
miles through snow banks ten to twelve
feet in height, through which a trail had
been cut. At the end of our walk We
found the coaches of a stage line. In
these we took passage and drove to the
little town of Log Cabin" fourteen
miles from the foot of Summit lake,
which we reached at about t o'clock ..
m. AS we had eaten nothing since 6
o'clock that morning, 1 did ample justice
TO the pork and bean lunch of well
come counter We found in the little
town In the matter of sleeping ac-
cOmmOdatiOns we were not SO fortunate.
The town was OVerrun and We could
find no place for a nights lodging. AS
soon, therefore, as we were released by
the Canadian customs officers stationed
there We took the first stage and came
TO Lake Bennett, about ten miles far
Their on
The Canadian customs charges at
Log Cabin are a cause of dissatisfac-
ton to the travellers coming in. As an
illustration quote herewith some OF the
duties charged upon personal belong
3ngs. On an IS kodak, $3.50; on a pair
OF new OVeraIIS, $LoU; old sheet music,
20 cents a copy; a mandolin, 81; white
shirts, S1.25 each. These are but sample
charges made upon all that the miner
takes in with him.
1t was here on the banks of Lake Ben
nett that my packers about the LIST of
october, 1897, after climbing over Chill
kOOt threw down their loads at 1OO'clOck
look familiar have again walked
around the portage of One-half mile be
tween Lakes Bennett and Lindeman. 1t
was while making the same walk two
years ago that came upon a lone grave
by the WaySlde marked j. Matthews
age 70. This is the grave of the Young
man who, having lost his second outfit
while lining his boat through the rapids
between the lakes, became Respondent
and took his life. When [ heard the
sad story two years ago L gathered
some green spruce bOughs and spread
upon his grave, and thought of the anx-
aOus mother far away who would wait
and watch. but who would look in vain
Tor news from her boy in the KlOndilze
Yesterday 1 revisited the spot and
again spread a few spruce bOughs upon
that lonely grave.
The town of Lake Bennett has changed
from a mere cluster of tents to a re-
spectacle collection of houses since nv
CORNER visit, though there are still many
dents SheIterlng those who are waiting
for the opening of the lakes to make
the start for Dawson, having been re-
tarded by the very late spring The
Yukon is open and so are some Of the
lakes, but not all The lakes extend
to the Yukon, about 200 miles distant
SIX or seven Of them forming chain
from the foot of the pass to the head
waters of the great river. Owing to the
low stage of the water at this end of
Bennett lake the steel steamer in which
we shall take passage can not be
AaunChed, although it draws but eigh-
teen inches of water. Many leave daily
crossing in small rowboats and canoes.
The little valley OfLake Bennett swarms
with a vast multitude who crowd the
NaDlns and cover every foot of avail
able land with their tents.
declded to wait for a boat, and so Sc
has just been completed and will start
Wnen the water rises sufficiently TO launch
ueE- me captain thinks that he viii be
abie te go in day or two, so we shall
Horse rapids. through both Of which I
passed in row5oat on my former trip.