The daily chieftain. [volume] (Vinita, Ind. Ter. [Okla.]) 1898-1902, 1899-06-13
GEMS MADE LovELIER.
How Jewellers cIeveriy Paint and Join
Broken Jewels.

Broken Jewels.
1t seems truly like painting the
lily and gliding refined gold to at
tempt to embellish and increase the
delioacy and beauty of the precious
stones-diamonds, rubies, eineralds
and sapphires-w which have taken
nature centuries of labor to perfect
in their pristine charm. So fastidi-
GUS, however, has man become that
he is, no longer satisfied with the
delicate shades and hues in the gems
of natures own making, and he
must improve upon them and adapt
them to prevailing tastes and fash
ions.
A process frequently used to i'm
prove the appearance of precious
stones that are faulty, dull or of an
ordinary hue is that OF burning.
Blemishes are removed by this proc
ess, or the color and brilliance of the
stone are enhanced. Very often the
color of the gem is entirely changed.
Even the delicate turquoise must
occasionally resign itself to artificial
establishment. Many sensitive fur
quoises become bleached and faded
from exposure to the sunlight Am
monia and fatty substances are ap-
piled to restore the original blae col
or, but such treatment does not ac-
complish lasting results. By anoth-
er process the faded turquoise is i'm
pregnated with prussian blue. The
pigment does not penetrate very
deeply, however, and may easily be
scraped off with knife Such arti-
fetal coloring is easily discernible by
lamplight, which transforms the
delicate shade into an unsightly
gray.
Artificial methods are adopted also
torender gems colorless. The yellow
tinge of Cape diamonds obscures
their luster and cheapens their val
ue. 1t is therefore found profitable
to deprive them of the Objectionable
tint, and the method is very simple.
The yellow diamond is placed in a
violet colored chemical liquid and
after being dried is found covered
with a very thin scale of the violet
substance.
Highly ingenious and deceptive is
the art of joining precious stones
Upper and under layers are fire.
quently fastened with mastic in this
fashion, and SO cleyerly as to de-
ceive even the experienced eye
Joined stones are quite common, for
the significant reason that large
solitaire diamond or other gem is
far more costly than two smaller
ones.
The art of doubling" is carried
to the extent of making false doub-
lets, which are naturally manufac-
tured at slight cost when inferior
stones or imitation ones are used.
Some doublets are composed of an
upper portion of colorless glass or
mountain crystal and an under por-
tion of colored glass. The latter i'm.
parts its hue to the former. The ef-
feet is also obtained by placing a
layer of coloring matter between
two colorless portions, or using bit
of leaf metal or tinted gelatin.
There are also hollow doublets,
pieces of crystal or glass. in which
are sealed drops of colored liquid.
Many sharp practices are in vogue
among jewellers in the mounting of
stones. Where the setting is not an
open one and the gem rests in solid
bit Of metal, opportunity is given for
many shrewd devices to enhance the
appearance of the jewel, conceal its
flaws and increase its brilliance. A
pigment composed of burned ivory
and mastic is commonly applied to
the surface of the metal setting
where it is found necessary to con-
ceal the presence of dark and un-
slightly spots in precious stones. The
black pigment is placed beneath
those portions of the stone that are
free from the dark flaws.
Even more frequently thin bits of
gold, silver, copper or zinc foil, re-
tanning their original color, are laid
beneath the gems, rendering them
more brilliant and improving their
color. New York Commercial.