The morning news. [volume] (Savannah, Ga.) 1887-1900, 1899-05-14
PAPER PATTERNS ny THE MILLION.
One House Alone Employees Three
Thousand People.

New York May FIT viii give some
ideal of the extent to which women arc
their own dressmakers TO state that in
one pattern making establishment in New
York city nearly 5000 people are employ
ed Both sexes, and nearly all ages are
! to be SEEN and remuneration for the n
Dor ranges from 81 a week up to almost
princely salary.
This house has 800 agencies through
out the world, and millions of their pat
terms are sent out during the yenr. with
instructions printed in English German,
French and Spanish. One would scarcely
expect that patterns cut In New York city
would find a market in China and Japan,
but they do.
For models, to try the garments on,
children of 4, 5. .. and - years of age,
and young woman of "a bust measure are
used AL the other sizes are graded up
and down from these standards
The origin of tho paper patterns is In the
brain of the designer In this depart
fnent the women must not alone be skilled
dressmakers, but have as well the artist s
eye and a light, skiiful touch. The gar
nent Is cut out of a good, firm piece. Of
unbleached muslin. If IL Is to be tight
fitting, It is sewed up and fitted without
a wrinkle; the work being just as care
fully and neatly done as II every stitch
was set for wearing purposes instead OF
being ripped out. that the paper pattern
may be cut from it.
One-half of the garment Is trimmed; II
lace is represented, a lace that Is cut out
OF tissue paper is fulled on. IL passes
menterie. applique, or fur are to be used,
these are also counterfeited in paper.
The productions of the paper manufac-
turer was wonderful. On model you
can see a silk shirt waist, linen collar, sat-
in neektie, leather belt, all made out Of
paper-not 20 mention the gold buttons OF
the same stuff.
But to return 10 the designer. One-half
of the garment Is trmmed-this for the
artist who wifi make a picture of II for
the fashion journal, and also 20 paste Oh
the paper pattern to show how the gar
ment win look when finished. The other
half IS left untrimmed, and It is from this
half that the paper patterns are cut.
After the designer has finished her work
the forewoman may not approve of It. in
this case all Of the designers time and la
Dor are .ost 20 the house, not to her. for
she draws a salary. But her pride and
heart are in her work. and she feels more
distressed over its rejection than the house
does. The forewoman must exercise a
great deal of care, for there are others
above her who must pass upon the work
This care Is ultimately to the benenl OF
the designer: IL stimulates her 60 do good
work a careful history of the patterns
OF each designer IL kept from start to
finish When It has finally gained the APP
prevail OF the superintendent ii Is sent
forth on It's journey through the world.
II &c is successful there, and the women
adopt IT, the firm sees that the originator
Of the idea is a valuable person 10 have.
They know that other pattern houses are
keeping careful tab on them and their sue
cesses. That Il is by no means Impossible
to find out who their best designers are
a salary that will bean inducemont for
the good people 70 stay where they are. is
the result
The women who are employed 10 decide
upon patterns sent from the designing
rooms, are skllful. trained, scientific
dressmskers; and are forced by the re-
gponsibniiy that rests upon them, to keep
thoroughly up to date In their business.
The uubieached muslin garment goes 10
the artist. Sometimes the picture is made
by putting IL upon lay inquire, but more
frequently living model is used.
when the ertists are done with the I'M
b,eached muslin garment 1t goes To two
dressnnakers who prove" the work The
entire garment Is ripped to pieces one
woman reads the manuscript description
while the other checks off the pieces de-
scribed The number of yards Of goods
Innings and trimmings called for are also
proved" These women mark the places
for the noiches, perforatlons and other es-
senta, points
From here the pattern goes to the