The Washington weekly post. (Washington, D.C.) 1878-1916, 1899-08-22

cidedIy out 0f the running. but the tor
SADIE. or thick coil of material. Is main
tsined. more particularly for toques-a
double torsade following the edge Of the
brlm and then twisted into q knot in
front. being favorite way Of trimming
them.
A pretty effect IL obtained by using vel
vet for one torsade and satin antique for
the other. Even where the same shade
Is chosen for the two there is a slight d.
versity In the coloring, owing TO the DIFF
ference OF texture. Some sort of buckle is
the usual complement TO a knotted tor
SADIE. Buckles curved backward are most
applicable 10 this purpose. and also for
setting IN the middle Of bows made OF
piece material or of very wide ribbon.
The dun and bright gilt buckles that
had superseded, TO an extent, those in
simili, are being superseded again by
buckles set with Rhine pebbles only, or
with pearls and pebbles. Many Of these
are really works Of art, and add very
considerably 10 the price Of a hat. How
ever. they are TO be had in all qualities.
and Darst & Wild, as well as other firms,
are showing them in great variety of
form and design. the most expensive as
veil as the comparatively cheap.
Milliners jewelry is almost entirely con-
fined this year to buckles. Pins are in
little demand. Spangles, which, however,
can hardly be classed under this head.
will be reserved more especially 20 even
ing toques and capotes. They are unsuited
10 the style likely to obtain most in smart
day hats, which are rather handsome and
heavy in their general appearance.
Trimming. for FAN Halls
American buyers seem TO have given
their preference to the more novel forms.
particularly the large toque. For the
decoration of these handsome couteaux,
arrangements Of breast plImage, or of
small supple quilts, laid one over the 9TH
er, and wings, are most in request.
Many OF the new hats are trimmed with
plumes Of cocks feathers, the half long
feathers OF the tail and wings, more or
less curved. The tendency is undoubtedly
to preserve certain homogeneity of tone:
therefore plumage artificially tinted is
more in demand than natural toned feath-
ers.
During the fall great deal will be done
with painted feathers, and miIliners and
others doing popular business will find a
brisk sale for spotted. parti-colored, and
other fancifully adorned corteaux
throughout the season; but the higher
grades Of plumage are supplied mostly In
plain or glace shades.
The processes to which these are SUBJ
jecteG give a highly polished surface,
which shows up the color, whether plain
or glace, 10 great effect.
Where ostrich is the trimming chosen,
very little else is needed, long and short
feathers combining together in rich lux
uriousness. The same may De said Of the
semi-circular mounts of breast plumage,
two of which 60 to adorn toque with 4
small bow, an aigrette, or even simple
buckle, IL the velvet be gathered over the
form. But single quill, a plume Cf
feathers or a pair of folded wings re-
quires good deal besides. The stump Of
the couteau may be concealed beneath a
huge bow, or stuck through the knot of
a double torsade, while the shape itself
may be trimmed as described above with
bands of felt, plated silk braid, or lined
with honeycomb arrangement of soft
satin.
As for wings. they are often placed sym
metrically in front on each size Of plait-
ed comb or crest of velvet, or half con-
cealed behind the loops of an Alsace bow
or the double coil of a torsade Goth
couteaux and wings are placed so as to
be nearly horizontal, and add very little
height to the shape. Cocks plumes, on
the contrary run above the rest of the
trimming, and therefore are most apple
able for hats, when they are generally
fastened on the left side, where the brim
curves slightly upward Fewer models
are 10 be seen turned frankly up on one
side. but many of the smaller sized hats
are turned up in front, when torsades or
folded bands of velvet pass over the edge
and decorate the under side of the brim
Some few, again-chiefiy those hats with
fiat brims-are turned up at the back and
have a cache peigne of three or five large
velvet roses.
Flowers in Cfntar Hats