The record-union., 1899-09-03

English textiles are selected for mourn
ing dress by those who prefer smooth
surfaces less likely to catch the dust.
Some of the fashionable sewing-silk
grenadines are as transparent as silk
moIsseline. More durable and useful
have proved the iron-frame plain and
small figured grenadines, in finest
meshes for first mourning and canvas
and etamine effects for subsequent
wear.
A handsome toilet worn this season is
of very lustrous black corded silk,
heavy of texture but exceedingly soft
and clinging 1t is made Up in prin-
cesse style, the bodice portion cut out
square in the. neck, the sleeves mere
caps, silk-embroidered in black. With
this gown has been worn many differ
ent guimpes, with matching long or
half-long sleeves, including those Of
jetted net, ecru guipure lace, white
striped with mauVe, vivid red chiffon
with jet embroideries and sequins, etc.
A black liberty foulard striped and
dotted in white has accessories of white
crepe de Chine and black velvet ribbon.
A black faille gown worn by a debu-
tante is simply trimmed with insertion
bands of fine cut jet laid over golden
green satin. The hat en- suite is OF
black zephyr straw trimmed with green
velvet maidenhair fern and black os-
trick tips.
Pale yellow muslins trimmed more or
less elaborately with black or white
lace are very much in evidence at all
the summer resorts. These are usually
accompanied by large black hats
trimmed with black tulle sable plumes
and yellow roses. Many of the hats
are finished with long tulle scarfs, the
ends brought around and fastened
under the chin toward the left side
The sea-gray of the summer is q
beautiful tint with a moonlight effect
color most fiattering to a brunette or
woman with chestnut-brown hair and
rich color. With summer cloth and
other gowns of this color, which are
admirably adapted for coaching, visit
ing and similar uses, is worn an ex-
ceedlngly smart and natty vest which
is very much in the style of the old
time Continental waistcoat of ample
proportions. It is made of ivory-white
corded silk, either decorated with col
ored silk applique ornaments or is
elaborately braided in white silk, with
line Of narrow gold braid following
the arabesque tracery. Pocket flaps
and fob chain go we'll with this vest.
rich, rather wide lace frill, narrow
ing to point, set down the front from
throat to belt, imparts touch of femi-
ninity to its otherwise rather mannish
effect
1t is already evident that the fashion
for fancy waists will not vanish with
the summer season. On the contrary
besides the shirt-waists of dark colored
satin foulard, Liberty silk, plain and
fancy taffeta, ETC., there will be great
many varieties exceedingly pretty in
style. Among these will be waists of
black or bright-colored India silk, nuns
yelling, albatross and crepe de Chine
trimmed with narrow bands of black
lace insertion or rows of velvet ribbon,
put on in squares, diamond shapes. di-
agonal lines, with tucks between, ETC.
These will be worn with dark or black
faille, satin, drap d etc, or cloth skirts,
very simply finished. The waists will
be made with small close sleeves, and
soft-silk collar and girdle, not buck
ram lined, but stiffened with rows of
featherbone or silk-covered ribbon
wire.
Not only will the graceful and ele
CANT princeSse dress reapear among
handsome models from Paris, formed of
corded silks, black satin brocade and
matelasse silks and satins, but in sup
pie taffetas, veilings in silk and wool
Weaves, mohafr Sicilienne, grenadine,
drap d'ete, and crepe de Chine in black
and in colors. The new autumn models
will show in many cases the princesse
shape improved in all sorts of attractive
ways but notably simple in style;
others will. show handsome guimpe or
yoke effects, crossed draperies or those
finished with fancy vests and jacket
fronts.
Veloutine, like peau de sole, is a silk
that grows constantly in favor 1t is
as soft as Sicilienne or undressed faille,
only of firmer texture, with a glossy
surface. The plain unpatterned weaves
are very handsome, and others equally
attractive are striped, showing lovely
contrasts of color. The sample cards
show the new goods to be double silk
in weaving-silk on silk-and the i'm
porters affirm that they will neither
pull nor cut in wearing.