Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1899-02-20

Special correspondence.
Hallway travelling In Cuba IL always
uncomfortable and very expensivc-as
high as twenty cents mile on some %
the roads, and there are pcculiaritiea
about II which the foreigner will do
wen TO understand beforehand. Tor
example: a passenger4ticket does not
provide for any baggage IN the line Of
trunks. etc. and on each piece IL a
considerable charge. per "arroba" OF
% pounds. II your trunks are extra
ordinary heavy. their transportation
may cost more ns baggage than your
own fare. and In that case you would
better buy a regular ticket for them. as
for another passenger People are per-
mlttcd however, 10 carry all manner
Of truck into The coaches. FREQ OF
charge. from household goods 70 sacks
OF fruit and hugo bundles 81 clothes
tied ~ In ahects-in spite % the warn
ing conspicuouHly posted. 20 the racct
vacn turned Into English. as followHi
"Noticla. The senuroa. passengers, arc
notified that on this road they VIII b.
allowed no luggage hut one vali1c. one
hat ana one Eainc-cuck.
The ears are ~ the flrai
second and third classes. Those
Of the FIRST class are cane
seated. tolorahly clean. and have
fow pasaonrcra but women. Neariy IA y
the men ride In the dinghy upholstered
Fccond-cinsf cars, pruferrinE % lny
half the price Tor equal discot1foti
though their wives and daughters b.
riding ''primeTn ciuHao' on the same
train. The third class carr, nt vne-
uf fI|HH II
freight or cattle cars, furnished Nish
rude benches. and 10 thcm are rnir-
gated iahofcra nud culorcd people.
Iherc were the "lrun.clndH,' hriattnf
with guns. which during the late war
were filled With Spanish soldiers an
attached to every train ns a guard
against inrurrcnt raids. There are no
smoking compartments IN the . ibal
railway service. because here, az ~ nn
Spanish Countries, men smoke cN"f}s
Nhcfc-nt the table. In the parlnr, thH
thcator--with never thought % tn
lady nlonRsidc--it being taken for
granted that nobody can possibly uh-
jcct to the odor of good tobacco, nny
more than 60 air, sunshine ANA the
fragrance OF iiowcrn.
Instead Of the omniprcHeut ncwH-poya
OF tho North. lOttCry.uckct V"nderA
board the train al oVery cuban hthtlyn'
and ragged pcddlnfH, male ana t'tnHlr,
rcurfy through the cars. or impniturv
yan at the windows. uncfing baskets
of coconnutr. mnnHocH and bananas
dlrty-lOoking bread. the aponry white
rhecfc 81 the country. brown Hlnhn ~
ruava Jelly. sons birds In wicker cnsch'
lunches OF quail and nloNrr ued togo
sher by the lcRa and pitifuliy Htrugfl-
tnr. and boxes OF living glow worms.
The last named articles Of commerce
find ready sale among carbohydrates
Ing foreigners. Each tiny "lHh'ning
bug carries a lantern under his tau,
~ brightly shining that iva or thtcc
uf them iilumine tho darkness better
than "a tniiow dip. ow-dayn there ~
lamcntnblc drought 81 the HunNu-
Jelly that used TO circulate by hundreds
az toms In cuba. brcaun" the tir.r
which yielded such enormous qunhu.
ties ~ runNnH were mostly destroyed
by oi.c army or the other. The favor
tie compete. with whoro nrfconnl" tF-i@
and bonincont qualities every body "
familiar. usually comes N bars, llhu
brown soap. or scaled In cans. In All
inst class hotels and private hnItca
throughout the West iuuish u hsufra
prominently Rt hrvasfsHt and dirner,
served with qucso, ,chccne,) az dessert.
ana the traveller foon considers u IN
dlrponrihie.
Now and then the train stops to
water" at rome wnyHidc elevated Gus.
tern. aud always close by ~ "a Hosrnllrd
lunch room. wherein unkcmpt ne.
rfoHHen dispense cniico Catalina vino
and cana rum. together with unRueHs.
able conundrumH In utvwn and dulclen,
The traveller who has not brought
along wel-niled lunch basket. nndH
himself worse on than the foolish viz
Gins whose lamps went out. Tor be-
stands "a chance u Hcmi-Htnrvatlon IA
tho long Journey between ClvnfucgpH
ard Matnnanu. liut he would better
endure the panrn ~ hunger man ln'-
hlhc his peck ~ dirt prumntufnly ~
the miserable but high-pficed food,
handled by ~. unwnshed. sampled hy
pfOwling dogs and naked babies and
literally peppurcd with ilrn-ladc dust
~ every station the scene ~ the Same.
idle hnbltantH, doing the heavy stand.
Ink around huaincHH In rags and
wrotchednosH, lean ours searching hun
gritty Tor crumbs and diHputing each
'nnd" with Juvenile Hnmln arily attrlcd
IN dirty skins aud women, clad only
IN one rcnnt garment, sitting cOmtortn'
bly, IN cottage DOORS undirtufhud b.
the thought that polite society might
demand more clothing, You pass
through many picturesque humlots, all
hearing tho unmiHtaknhli oar-mntkH ~
antiquity and old Spain Each has ltH
white-wnahcd church, with a breast
hirh fencing of piled up stones, show
Ink that u WAS turned into fort dur.
Ing the war. and AN the warehouses
by similar walls or covered with cor.
roguFntcd tin OF iron. with loop holes
for guns, Every village has IT. posnda.
which Nigh, have vat To- General Lew
Wallace Tor picture Of the one de-
Hcrihod IN Zen ilur In front ~ the
uosndaH groups N natives are putting
lnzily az cigarettes. ana rows ~ shaggy
ponies are tied with their noses close
20 the open doors. People. ponies,
houses, hedges, are an stained ana dia-
cnlorod with the red soil, like our Wes-
tern Indians arrnyed In their war
paint This plgment. constantly blow
Ing IN pillows OF tine dust. pcnctratra
everything. and each separate grain ~
dust carries with ID an exceedingly uc-
tive nea-appnroutly the only induHtri.
Gus denlzenH ~ this land ~ mauann.
Hardly a wheeled vehicle II Co be- seen
IN long days Journey, Tor the coun-
try roads N cuba are ~ only for
cquostflanH, ana not for them during
nnrtiuu ~ the year,
Nearing Matangna-cuNH'n fecond
city Ia size. which Hes within sixty
miles Of ilabana-the prospect UNDER
goes considerable change. Decent
houses, with tiled roofs ana tinted
walls, are more frequent. roads that
look tulerably good wind on among
plantations. and the palmbark huts n
Tho pniaaunoes- hapless country
people whom Wrylor Concentrated"
almost TO their rNtinctlon-ngain show