The Jersey City news., 1899-03-03
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WOMAN'S WORLD.

thinking it would be most popular among
American women. A number OF black
Brussels net model gowns more or less
elaborately trimmed with glittering Sc
ouins were brought over with the ex-
pectation that they would be most popu-
lar. But the feminine public were afraid
of the spangles. Although many elapor-
ate and beautiful gowns in which Sc
ouins figured We're made and worn, yet
the greater number of the black aet
gowns were sold at either a very small
profit or an actual loss to their inn
porters.
Slowly. but surely, however the eyes
of women were opened to the beauties OF
these gowns BY the time the horse
show opened paillettes were feature
of half the elaborate gowns made Brus-
sells net has been put to so many uses
that it. too, marks the era of pros
perity and needs not an accompaniment
of sequins to enhance its popularity
By far the most popular way in which
Brussels net is at present employed Is
high -necked guimpe for low-neeKeo
gown. Its transparency is most becoming,
and it's durability compared to either
chiffon or mousseline de sole, is the
second point in its favor. These trans
parent yokes or guimpes like the gowns
loaded with sequins, made their initial
appearance quite a year ago, put IKE
the latter sthey had to be known to De
appreciated.
low necked gown or gown which
Stimulates one will always appear more
suitable to a festive occasion that one
which makes no pretense to even decor
lete effect. hence a gown with trans
parent yoke will fill gracefully long
felt want For informal dinners, Tor
card parties, for even afternoon teas,
when one is receiving, or when one is go
ing from a tea to a dinner, these gowns
are invaluable.
Their economy is obvious. To one-or
rather to the many-to whom number
of evening gowns each season would De
rank extravaganza, a gown which can
be used both in the afternoon and even
ing is a great boon. When this COM
bination toilet first appeared last winter
the guimpe and the sleeves, which were
then used much with dinner gowns, were
.of chiffon Chiffon sleeves, shirred ana
fitting the arm closely, are beautiful TO
behold, but they cannot be depended upon
TO last a whole season, while Brussels net
can.
A most effective black dinner gown ap-
peared at a small dinner last week. The
skirt and low-necked bodice were OF
black taffeta. The skirt was, as usual,
very narrow across the hips, very full
and long about the feet and strimmed
with three narrow rows of velvet ribbon
fulled on near, the bottom. The waist
was simply a round waist made decoilete
with a belt of black velvet ribbon, WHEN
ended in bow on the side. The sleeves
and woke or guimpe were of Brussels jet.
The high collar was of turquoise blue
velvet with an exquisite gray sheen TO
it. which took away the hard look which
turquoise blue so often has. AT best 1t IS
a trying color, and should be confined
most exclusively to women with eyes OF
turquoise blue or to those rare beings
blessed with rose leaf complexions, and
this beauty this particular woman has
Across the bust, from shoulder 10
shoulder. was draped great soft fold OF
the turquoise velvet, which gave fullness
as we'll as color TO the corsage.
Another gown which was effective and
becoming and interesting to the eternal
seeker after successfully remoueieo
gowns. was worn by the hostess at an
afternoon tea. Her gown, too, was black
and she also had a black silk skirt
trimmed with velvet.
But her skirt was not of recently pop
ular taffeta. 1t was some good heavy s1lk
which she had put away for years, ano
which she had resurrected, ripped
cleaned and freshed, and then made into a
double skirt or tunic effect the underskir'
most voluminous, and by making
double skirt or tune effect the undersklr1
could be pieced down to the regulation
length The tunic or upper skirt was
edged with three rows of narrow biaeB
velvet ribbon. So far there was similar ty
between the two gowns, although one hae
been made by an expensive modiste ane
the other fashioned at home.
The bodice of the home made gown was
of black velvet, it was cut square baci
and front and this square neck was fhlee
in by the daintiest little guimpe of sheer
white lawn, tucked in clusters of three
then space, then cluster OF tucks. Tht
high collar of tucked white muslin mac
tiny ears of lace at the maps of the neck
The sleeves of velvet were elbow sleeves
finished with black lace. They were quite
tight and had very little fullness at tht
top Their industrious maker and owner
might well be proud of the correctness OF
her design. They were of the facsimile Of
a pair of very tight elbow sleeves whlcf
adorned a broad-tailed Jacket of unques
toned smartness and price which wa:
worn at the last Monday morning musi
Gale at the Waldorf Astoria, in New York
Such narrow sleeves on a gown worn a
home in afternoon were bearable enough
but the narrow sleeves of the broad tai
Jacket were a puzzle. Reaching only II
the elbow, where they were met by Ions
black gloves, the curiosity as to whether
one could possibly wear anything so tign
over anything but a sleeveless evening
gown was almost enough to distract one:
attention from the glorious music.
Dog collars as collars worn with low
necked gowns as generally known, taxi
away from the formality of an evening
gown to a great extent One can alway'
take collar of this sort made elaboratel'
of velvet or ribbon and shirr guimpe o
transparent stuff to it. And even elboV
sleeves are easily managed with pattern
This year the sleeves, instead of bein'
long. are usually elbow length.
From this time forth there will be yer.
few pieces of the china from the roya
factory of Russia seen in this or any other
save the Cars dominion, as he has CIV
en- absolute orders for those exquisite pro
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