The times., 1899-10-15
"A CHEF FROM india
He Is Creating a Sensation With
His Eastern Cuisine.
Makes Wonderful Pnsfes and Curry
Powders. and Declares That IL
American Women VIII But Eat His
Dishes They VIII he as beautiful
as Dreams-He Also Makes Turbnns

who know him Familiarity call him Joe"
who says; IF the women OF America viii
but eat the food ! prepare. they will be
more beautiful than they as yet Imagine.
The eye will grow lustrous. the complex
ion will be yet so lovely. and the figure Ike
unto those of our beautiful India women"
joe came to New York few weeks
ago, since which time he has beeen serv-
ing all sorts OF deleetable dishes in Sher-
ry's great Fifth Avenue establishment The
fancy for cuTries. which is the foundation
OF ali India dishes. seems 10 have taken
possession OF everyone who has eaten OF
them You take seat at one OF the dainty
tables, lock over the India menu with a
sort Of fear and trembling OF what's to
come, with u delightful uncertainty per-
vading your soul. It costs lot OF money.
too. but then you are there and in for the
expense.
Soon Joe arrives Immediately arrayed
in a heavy white linen India costume with
a gorgeous turban Of white all outlined in
gold braid. with broad smile which shows
all his cleaning teeth and with the little
seductive manner that pIeases the public SO
much. he lays before you silver dish. As
he removes the cover you feel that life is
not all weary dream and you become less
skeptieal on India dishes in general. Joe
makes cunning little circle on your plate
with deftness OF long practice OF the whit
est, hakiest curried rice, in the centre OF
which he places bit OF chicken All this
time he is telling you in his gentle sort OF
way that his one hope is this may be only
the first Of many dinners he is to serve You.
Instead of one dish you may have an entirs
India menu running as follows:
Kalooh Sherry
Murghi Rain
Curry Of Chicken Madras
Indian Bhagi Topur. BOMBAY Duck
Lettuce Ceylon
Khurbooia Handari
Coffee Kar1bsee-
This. ]. Ranjl explains. is the typical din
ner as TO the number of courses that ladies
in the better stations of life would have in
India "Oh, your great trouble in tkis
country" he continues. lis the hurried
cooking / almost feel like fainting as / 20
10 some OF your great resorts, lock In o
your kitchens. and see the way the food
is prepared This gives the dyspepsia.
which all my friends here whom l have
served say they do not experience when
eating OF my curries- So many ladies ara
fearful OF my preparations, thinking that
everything must be very hot and peDperv
All things must be so nicely even ami
such care as TO smoothness. that 1t viii be
OF so pleasant taste they can but ask for
more.
1T is mistake TO boil curries." he
continues. They should simmer gently
and not lose their flavor. In India and
China eurries are often served in sepa-
rate dishes. Now. do not boil rice
Cleanse IL using three times as much
water in boiling as there is rice, and never
stir it. and then il all comes out like so
many separate snowfakes."
joe" says some of these days he Is
going to make tour through the West
and South after ne finishes his good
missionary work in the East, and then
there viii be no more "of that which
you caH dyspepsia floating about IN this
beautiful country" Just now he is in a
great state OF excitement over the prospse-
tive arrival OF ten India cooks. whom hs
viii guide through an elaborate service IN
the beautifully equipped India room that
Sherry has about planned out
Joe" makes all his own curry powders
and paStes and makes them they suit
the palates OF different natiOnalities. Just
how he does this il it difficult TO say. as he
follows no special rules, except the sponta-
neOus inspiration OF his own head. SOms
day. when Joe" has time. he viii print a
little hook, telling the American women
what is good for them TO eat how they
must prepare il and serve H. and who
knows what delightful effect this may have
on the masculine temperament. The rea-
son Americans do net succeed. as a rule.
with cuTries. which form such a back
ground Of India cooking is that they ara
always in too much OF a rush. and they
curry everything alike: for 10 curry q
chicken the same as piece OF fish. or !
piece of beef. trouble Is bound to arise.
and, IN disgust, the cook lays IL on 10 the
curry
Joe" has all his own silver dishes and
utensils his own separate place IN the
great kitchen. where he is absolute mon
arch Of all he surveys, and the French
chef may strictly mind his own affairs.
for he isn't in it," On state occasions.
If you want things particularly up TO date.
he Will array himself in bis gorgeous beat
costume. consisting of long black satin
lined coat, a cross between the Prince
Albert and dress coat. magnificent en-
broidered white sash. pointed slippers.
white trousers and a light blue silk turoan.
on which the Maharajah of CoOehbshar
has pinned a handsome design IN recogni-
ticn of RanjfS services to him
/ was so much impressed with these
turbans. and they looked so becoming upon
one very pretty young women's head.
that l asked him IL he would not make
me one. It takes five yards of silk.
twined and twisted into such firm shape
that it looks as though a yard would cover
the whole outline. and the cost is about
SIS. as this material must be of the finest
quality.
joe has made several turbans for
prominent people on the stage, usually
placing a sweeping feather to one side.
TO give it the necessary jaunty touch He
never places himself under contract 10
anyone as he wants to see the great
American world. He says. in every in
stance where he has served his India menu
the people have returned for a second.
many CT the ladies asking for his various
receipts TO use in their homes. Joe" ex-
plains. 'AlI this l would do but l am
so very busy. l must think out each day
something new and very novel, because.
dear ME, the American public must be en-
tertained as well as fed" This foreign
cook is a very handsome representative CT
his country-clear, dark skin. brilliant
black eyes, smooth black hair, and the
whitest OF teeth. This" he says face
tiously. comes from the careful way we
eat in India, and before 1 return 1 will tell
how TO the ladies Of America"
How to FresIIen Chiffon