Evening star., 1899-01-28

doubt as soon as the first warm days come
we shall find the hot white linen collar
abroad in all its too soon wilted neatness.
From descriptions of stocks one would
suppose there had been no changes at all
in their form and shape since last year but
as a matter of fact they are much trimmer
They are made on stiff foundation, care
fully fitted to the neck. This canvas
foundation can be bought already woven III
three heights. 1t really fits most necks ex-
Cellently and is sure to be good shape,
which cannot be said of all collars cut out
at home. over this foundation the silk is
laid in four or five smooth plaits. There is
no superfiucus material whatever on the
collar proper. A tie of the same silk comes
from the back as If it were continuation
of the collar which crossed in the back. but
in reality it is put on separately, for If 1t
were part of the silk of the collar itself
it would make it more bulky than the
present fashion desires.
Proper Length and Width.
This tie may either be long enough to
have its ends reach nearly to the waist
when tied in a bow, or it may he so short
that it just makes a smart, square bow. 1t
is merely matter of taste. The long ends
and short bows are more conspicuous and
better suited to youthful faces. They are
the most suitable for fancy silk shirt
waists while the short, square bow is the
best accompaniment for a palmer waist
which is apt to be worn with tailor-made
Nj L.
short the ends of the ribbon are sharply
pointed and usually hemmed instead OF
being left raw. as ribbon ends usually are
The polka dotted ribbons, many varieties
of which seized the popular fancy early in
the autumn. still hold their own, and some
of the very newest stocks to be worn with
cloth gowns are of canary-colored or pale
blue silk covered, or nearly covered, WIFE
black polka dots. Usually these polka dot
ted ties are made with the two very long
ends and two very short bows often they
are frightened by the addition of white
hens stitched lawn bands on either side OF
the stock These lawn bands give to the
ordinary stock of a dark cloth gown
great part of the attractiVeness which was
formerly attribute of widows only. They
set rather & high standard OF dalnunesS.
as it is necessary to have great many of
them and change them continually if one is
to be spotless. "Too high a standard" one
woman remarked pathetically as she re-
lated her experience of always dressing In
a hurry and always finding that the lawn
or linen bands on the neck of her gown
would have to be changed before she could
appear.
Home-Mnde HemstitchinE.
The price charged for lawn bands when
bought ready made is quite out of propor-
ton to their size, and although not so much
in itself is quite an item If one is going to
have enough Of them to always appear with
a fresh and immaculate one. Making them
is very easy, although. of course. pulling
the threads to hemstitch each one is tire
some. They about three inches long
and an inch deep. after they are finished.
and are Sc we'd into straight piece of linen
which is pinned inside of the collar. The
inside piece of linen is. of course, made to
fit the neck and the distance apart from
each other which should be observed in
sewing the two hemstitched bands into their
foundation can be readily gauged from the
accompanying Illustration.
The whole subject of stocks this winter
would require long and serious treatment,
not have at least a collar, and usually
yoke of a different color from the body of
the waist. One French authority lays down
be either round, square, pointed; it may he
may decide upon. fashion has fixed a decol-
lete bodice with yoke inevitable" This
sounds mcnotonous, but so cunningly can
the effect be varied that not one person in
hundred would observe that in this one
essential all women are gowned alike were
1t not pointed out to her.
Brown Plaid and Gold Creme.
For instance. brown plaid gown worn at
the opening of the loan exhibition of por-
traits by the wife of one of our artists
who makes his home in Paris, and who oc-
casionally pays flying visits to this coun-
de chine of a shads to harmonize with The
brown. Tied around the collar with that