The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1899-08-26
CITY Of k|EH'
Fora Millennium an Emporium
for Oriental Trade.
GREAT PiETY AND POVERTY
Something of the Art and
Music Astounding There.


market for the Orient's wares. she has
Aourished for ten centuries. Those who
chose the site were doubtless influenced
by the fact that the hills forming the
background serve 10 break the force OF
the north winds as they sweep over the
plains. As the population has grown
Kieff has claimed these hills and now
they are part of the town. Upon the
heights exposed to the wind and sun
Greek churches lift their spires and
domes Of gold, or blue with golden stars
above the surrounding trees. and. fash
ing In the sun. they serve BY day as bea-
cons for the pilgrims on their way to
Kien.
These churches are pure white and pal
est green, with frescoes, softened by the
weather, on all the outer walls Like
wise shepherds, the churches have chosen
points from which they can best watch
their hoeks on the hiIlsides, In the crowd
ed streets below. and of across the'rfver.
1t Is at Kieff that the Desna joins the
Dnieper, but before they unite to flow in
one majestic stream south to the Black
sea they wind in and out, forming islands
Of the sands. The forest-clad hills which
rise abruptly from the rivers bank sup
port at one point bronze statue of St.
Vladimir, the herald Of christianity of
Russia. He was baptized aat iKeff in the
ninth century. At night the immense
cross, clasped in the arms of that saint,
is, by means Of electricity made to fash
nd ha rfx "A
cross to the lonely peasant village scat
tered over the plaians. KEN might well
be called ''the city of the cross Of light"
TIE religious ardor Of these Greek Cath
lies is touching. They not only cross
themselves when passing q church. but
uncovering their headas. they bow low
five or six times. Yesterday we made our
way through a crowd Of beggars, such as
block the entrance to every Russian
church. entered st. Sophia at the hour Of
vespers. AS our eyes became accustomed
to the gloom. we were amazed by the
CLEAN Of gold aIiad precious stones on all
sides, and the fresco covering every inch
OF the wall. A group of peasants stood
near a priest who read the services,
marvellous choir of males voices singing
in response. All of those sad-eyed peo-
pie wore sheep skin coats. with scarfs of
red or green. tied around their NFaists.
Many carried staaffs. fer they were for
the most part pilgrims from far away
villages and more than half had packs
containing all their worldly goods. These
Russian peasants. with their boards and
long hair parted in the middle. look like
the pictures OF Biblical characters. Be-
low the sheepskln coat Of the women
hang stout skirts of muslin, dark with
dirt and edged with such crude embroid-
cry in white and red and blue as the
Russian peasants make themselves. But
a flthier set OF human beings one would
have difficulty in finding.
AS We stood apart in a Swallowed cor
ner, not to disturb the devotions Of these
simple souls. we noticed one soft eyed
man, with long blonde locks, presa his
forehead to the stone floor for fully
twenty minutes. The penniless condition
Of these people is the more striking when
contrasted with the wealth of the
churches in which they worship. Last
year 1t occurred to a band OF men in the
neighborhood of Kieff that such lavish
ness In the decoration Of the churches
was absurd and unjust, when men, wo-
men and children were dying OF hunger
They accordingly took 1t uon themselves
to break into one Of the Kieff churches
seize treasures valued at many thousand
rubles, and depart with them to st Pet
ersburg. where they sold them. The stol-
en- goods were soon traced, and are now
all restored to the church.
At the close OF the service the priest
wrapped In cloth of gold, held out a cross
for all to kiss AS they crowded around
him, the rays of the sinking sun fell In
long shafts through the richly colored
windows. staining their sheepskins pur-
pie and red and gold. We left the
church as the last notes Of the chant died
away. and strolled along the ciih over
looking the city and the river. past the
statue OF st. Vladimir. feastIng orr eyes
upon the beauty of the landscape, as seen
in the violet haze OF twilight. On our
way down the winding path which leads
to the town. we passed many Russian Of
hcets sauntering along their favoriee
promenade. Several groups Of students.
in hot discussion, excited our curiosity.
We have since learned what the excite
ment was over. Thirty thousand Russian
students. men and women. are in spirit
ual revolt. the cauaSe being the recent
hcrsewhipping of students by the police
OF st. Petersburg.
Kieh Is particularly interesting Just be-
fore their Easter. when pilgrims are ar
irving every day to visit the churches
where mumieS of their saints are pre-
The other day while hurrying
along the principal bushes sstreet. we
were surprised to see many In the busy
crowd OF men stopping short. uncovering
their heads. and crossing themselves. At |
hrst we could nos understand IL. as there /
was 10 church near. bot following the |
8 .anee OF the crowd We soon discovered |
the cause Wending fits way slowly amid |
electric cars and flying droshkies was a |
rough farm wagon. drawn by one slrei |
old horse in a rope harness. He was led I
by a peasant with uncovered head: In l
the wagon was q CONN covered with a
black pail with a Greek cross Of white /
sewed on it. Three men walked IA front. \
oas carrying = cross Of common wood.
the other two black banners. Ornamental
with crosses OF white. Several children
held on 10 the sides OF the wsgon. as II
bred out The boys. Ike The men; carry
ing their hats in their haads. though the
lay was cold Behind the private hesrse
-hre women ploded YEARLY aIonx Pow
ertY. broken hearts and death: 4 sadder
light one never saW. Surely Rn<sa Il q
and Of contrasts
We are constantly happenl1g upon In