The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, 1899-02-12


/ k1Fne asking whether Is would ae safe or
| poiltlc fer American tourists % visit Spain
az f1is trD-. After an experience Of three
weeks 81 al paris Of Spain can tell that
inquirer mat for he puFposes % the tr4v-
e!er Spain Il as safe noa as Il ever has
been. sRd IL Deeds Americans "a K never
| hAs needed ;hem before.
cou4d E9t a1Fsse this American 10 fall
low tne example 81 = young fellow eneogn-
tered ne other day az Madrid. and VINO
Vas outrazfng tne hospitality and iunor-
abce q Use country ~ waking through H.
on wager 50 ne sad. wigs two American
hass pinned upon his person. | suppose
'hai the spaniards unable 20 recognize the
nag. were 10 worse Of foF having seen K
exhibited IN 50 undgu;.led a fashion. bat
wondered MIA on earth the educa Ted
people OF t7f country thought Of the per
fofmance, aaG b.ushed for The individual
WHO vas moved forward as a fellow coun-
tryman- Yet in spite of the eccentric do
inss q my frrakish fellow citizen ne hal
marched across the desoiate land. accom-
PANEL by an innocent aSs. anmoles.ea a.
though he did claim to nave barely escaped
the knife OF a returned soldier al one or
| the arort towns.
To those 10 whom Spain Ia not entirely
| new II now VIII impress Itself in 4 very
different manner. The gavfarsr meets
| with as much courtesy as ever. the land
! lords as earnestly seek the recesses ~ he
| pilgrims pockets the beggars are II pos
si5ie. more numerous than ever before. but
| with the doubtful exception ~ Barcelona
| the life and light OF the country have de-
| parted. There always is activity n Bar
| ceJona. but az Saragcssa there have been
| 10 skhtseers In months. A. Madrid il was
| almost az bad The opera ho,:se which Is
| one Of the finest In Europe. was less than
| half filled. The court has not appeared TN
| public since long before the war COM
/ al and hA Fqz tta.4-
| nor heart for opera or theater. Tae famous
| art gallery Is populated almost exclusively
| by cuSt11ians and copying artists. Take
| away the soldiers and there would he no
| brtliauey left. Seville IL 50 quiet as 10 be
| almost oppressive The streets are lifeIess
| the cafes 10 which the visitor formerly was
| iured under the impression that there he
| wou!t see the dancing girls OF AndaIusia liz
| a sitting fJ&i Of local color. have all gone
| out II business bat one.
one hears only the sThoes of MS own feet
| in the court of oranges at the big hotel
| and sits down with heavy heart and not
| much else for company at the Tong table
| with seats for sixty-four and remarka bile
| tahlecIo:h in one piece 70 cove Il. Here a
| Cadiz IL Is much the same thing. except
! that you see more OF the cotton uniforms
| % TIE colonial army now coming hGme.
| Everything IS sad sad inexpressibly sad
| from the hleak and ;reeless landscape TO
1
From Merida, that other Rome" TO S.
| vile We Travelled In a train filed with re
| turning soldiers. Al every station there
| were crowds 30 meet them and 20 welcome
| bone the Local contingent But there were
| always silent crowds There we're no brass
bands. no Yankee cheering. 10 nags. no
| speeches There were not even tears
| Friends gathered around friends ana took
| them home occasionally poor chap would
| look around as though expecting some one
| ard missing the welcoming hand would
ir,ige on alone 20 End hi3 people. The
| tair striped uniform Contrasted inharno-
| nioUsly with The cold gray day The bows
| inside Of them. though sick and tired look
| ing generally. did not appear 80 us much
| cast DOWN but they were approaching
| home and had reason 10 feel IN good spirits
| These country crowds were always pict-
| uresQue. Along the roadside would be- a
| row 81 the little donkeys so universally
| used in Spain. and On the station grounds
the whole community, the men in broad
| trimmed felt hats. with ShaNss thrown
| around their necks and smoking invaria-
| bly,. and the women less interesting There
| was never much taking or laughing only
| sgod{ty. BACK % the crowd always stood
| two or three members ~ the Eusr5sa civ
| sic. that ane body ri solder poucemeu who
| keep order in every part u the land. Only
| a. Seville VAS there any bus5le cr cheerful
| confusion ltut r. Seville they used 20 say
| there was sonnet thing in TIRE ar ta2t gave
| enc "a sense Of joy al merely living. and
| that X ~ there tina; ths very yaeahonds
1 vhe bTeakf8st 81 water and Dine 0n the
| nsus.c - ia~ guitar are happy "a lords.
| Yet uow even 2 Seville there ~aS nothing
| - note but / general rush and hgs We
| ssw an.y enc scene that vas not common
| place Ard fha, waS when i young wife
| proudly pressed ln}o the -hrong ~ show IT
| 20 the newly -onle ne baby younesttr ff,st
/ ~ ...-f.t~ rEF a
| From north - south ard east 20 west ycai
| observe -aa' countless fsml ~ avs IN
/ mourning Tee hospitals are yet faH og the
| sick ~ she army. and the wonder Is rot
| tast there il 50 uueh t1sf Il dsCoura Eiug
| in the cor Eitlou 81 t8iaEs, bat shat the pe.,-
/ ple bear 80 easily %-ith the sorrow ARD SAT-
| f-F:ng fha: ave SO general
| We u1et a ia3Y Al Mzari8 @ho sal been
| there ou the &ay Wh.n tse uew7 car.e
| through tha; Santiago rad fsllen The
| Facts bad leaked out uttle by .sttte, start
| .ug with repsrt thar l-erVera's III bad
| t.t8rnrhani}y broken on; ~ ire Bottle snl
ending with trc s1oofuy bl1fes5a thss All
| had f,eeis l5st IN M83ri3 she center - Al
| tnsrxx is the Pms 20 d. Sol. s. sfuaN breath
/ tag Spot from ahlch tHe ctty Taa.ates Here
| ths people assembled 20 hear she news.
/ soa ffou4 her hefef overlooking fhr Ss-e+-
| sais woman looked toan 0p0a the Mafrl-
I 'eev~ wao nayei as-oui ssowty in small
| groups
And zst3 sbe " taoseh 7 havr Travelled
! a great deal as1 s~e1 II ans sorts ~ crowds
! has. never s--en ere sk~ hat ~vaxi and
] never exP@-- - 40 sss sestn n @aS uut
-Hat sneA-,;t "a vr sas8 anytaies for
rotn3ug oer erred 12Ht tse aFerr-7g,. p. a.f
| saA1ess ~ Bee ttsre is eagltg asrg esnaut
forget. haY~ seer respectful sxr5s4f snt
hapey crowds 1nt u.v.r before q ast
~roNs sn weieh every url~ carried sa rs
counteBsnce tsse s.ED 50 PERSONAL tre-sN.s.- '