The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1899-08-26

ing. Some ostrich plumes are used, but
nowhere near as many as were worn last
season. What are worn are generally
posed high in empire design.
The shapes are of felt, rather soft and
yelyety looking on the surface. Some of
the poke aud cabriolet shapes are stiff as
boards and require special treatment to
be becoming.
There are numbers Of close, rough
straws, and they will be worn almost I'M
til snow, as they are intended for rum
abouts and can be triigned in certain
styles. These would not de on felt founda-
tons. The sheperdess hat with its very
pronounced dip and the heart shaped
poke promise to be very popular.
There is one poke bent down in front
In a regular Marie Stuart shape. 1t is
not only quaint, but very pretty. There
Is the usual amount of the bent brim eff
feet. These are all intended for young
faces. The more elderly persons will
wear more bonnets and fewer hats.
The evening styles remind one ire
sistably OF Nine. de Stael's turban. They
are of one large, loose roll of gauze Of
one color or another, with a fancy jew
eled aigret and a pompon or so. Or
perhaps a splendid paradise sweep.
These are certainly stately.
An important factor in good dressing
for the fall is shown in the new collars
and handkerchiefs. Linen collars differ
little from those Of all summer, only
that the rundown collars show much
more ornamentation. l have seen some
with a line of the finest embroidery in
colors not over a quarter of an inch wide
around the collar the same distance
from the edge.
Another style is hemstitched in double
stitches. They are high and turn down.
The made collars of other material are
really beautiful. One style is of velvet,
black or coiored, cut to fit the neck
easily. They are lined with taffeta and
worked with different designs in span
giles, sometimes silver, sometimes gold
or iridescent. The upper and lower edges
are smooth.
But the most of these stock collars
are made In shirrs. with lines of velvet,
narrow ribbon or metal braid between
the pufs. At upper and lower edge
there are JUDY ruches, beautifully made.
One particularly pretty one was of black
tulle, with narrow black velvet lines
between the shirrs and white JUDY
ruches top and bottom.
Another style had shirred black Gre
pom, with fine lines of very narrow sill
yer braid between the gathers, with
black ruches on the edges. Others are
made of crepe lisse and silk null in
white, black or colors. There are four
shirred puffs, with Tom Thumb ribbon
between, and each is self ruiled top and
bottom. A very useful as well as ele-
giant stock is of smooth black velvet,
with three ruches of black chiffon
around, lone on the edge.
The dressiest style is of white or very
light chiffon, shirred up and down all
around There are FIVE perpendicular
lines of insertion sewed Cat. Around
both edges Is a row Of JUDY ruche
and a very full crepe lisse rufie rising
from half an inch in front to two inches
in the back.
The colors mostly shown are blue,
cherry, pink, cardinal, white, heliotrope
and black. They are made to fasten in
visibly IN the back and can be worn with
almost any dress. I have mentioned
these particularly, as these small matters
have such a great effect Upon a woman's
appearance. And, with one as a guide,
as to shape, it seems to me that most
women could make up a number for
themselves. They cost from $1.65 to
S4.25 a dozen In the manufacturers
hands, but it would not be safe to say
what the retail stores will charge.
Handkerchief seem to be both hem
stitch and embroidery edge. Those
embroidered have at least one line OF
very openwork embroidery above the en-
broidery on the edge The hemstitcheu
ones have a row OF delicate embroidery
inside the hem, with FANCY il 9th
ers have two rows Of thread lace inser.