The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1899-03-26

the same lace, made to stand up very
nigh at the back into the hair.
Beautiful Evening Dresses.
With this gown Miss Fair will wear
very unusual hat and one after her own
exclusive design, with no thanks to
French milliners for any Of the sugges-
tons
1t is of long stems of flowers made over
a frame and caught down at intervals
1t is turned up at the back and worn a lit
tie forward. 1t is trimmed with wreath
or circulet of purple grapes, and large
grape leaves and black velvet rosettes
are tucked under the turned-up back
A cockade of lace is the basis for a mass
of five black paradise plumes.
There are many evening dresses in the
outfit, and one of the prettiest of them
Is OF white India gauze with trimmings of
gold and rosettes made of pink
gauze with green leaves. The skirt
trails beautifully about the feet
and is very long at the back. The whole
skirt is founced with deep pissed
founces of the tulle embroidered delicate
ly at the edge with gold thread and gold
sequins.
The whole body is covered with richest.
closest gold embroidery. II is cut very.
low and has no sleeves-only little wisps
Of tulle below the shoulder and bands Of
rosettes of pink gauze look like roses and
they have gold thread in the center to
look like the hearts of flowers. These dec
crate the corsage at one side. and trail
ing out from them over the white flesh
and down the front are leaves made Of
pale green gauze edged with gold thread.
These were made by the dressmaker at
Miss Fairs suggestion and the effect of
the gauze leaves and roses against the
white tulle with the gold Is fairy-lil1e in
its deliCacy.
Dreams Of the Tailor
Another evening gown of quite a differ
ent type is all of lace. excepting the tiny
edge of the skirt. which peeps below the
long lace redingote. This is of soft lber-
ty satin in a creamy white. This lace
dress is a creamy ecru and it fits the fig
ure like q new French glove, the seams
being held tight all the way with feath-
erbone. 1t fastens in the back and is
decollete. Where it fastens there are lit
tie yellow velvet buttons, and a cluster
of black velvet roses with yellow centers
crosses one shoulder.
There are sleeves to this gown, but they
do not extend to the shoulder. looking
more like long mitts.
This gown also trails about the feet
and is exceedingly close-fitting about the
hips, giving an effect of extreme slender
ness-an effect, by the way, which Miss
Fair cultiyates in all her gowns.
To jump from evening robes to street
gowns is to tell about a handsome tailor
gown which Miss Fair intends to wear
soon after her marriage-in fact, it may
be intended as the going-away gown. This
is Of light weight spring broadcloth of
the new variety, which has surface al
most like satin. It is of a lovely shade
OF silver gray, made up with strapped
seams and numerous strap decorations.
The gown is odd because of its little
cutaway coat rounding down to a rather
long tab-like tail al the back. This coat
opens broadly in front and has two waist
coats, one of a sort of dull peacock green
and the other of rich mauve cloth. They
open one over the other, and show a
ruffled shirt of white silk null or grass
linen. The combination of these two pecu-
liar cOlors with the clear silver gray is
very fetching and decidedly foreign
looking.
Dresses for Ordinary Wear
A turban Of black tulle, jetted finely.
is to be worn with this gown. and it has
for trimming a single tall white plume In
front, held by a large ornament of fine
cut steel.
The most practical and plain gown in
all the wedding outfit is of navy blue
lightweight serge. This is made up with
a coat bodice. opening over a bright scar
let vest fastened with gold buttons. There
is a finely tucked shirt of finest white
linen, with a standing collar and mascu-
line tie.
Brick-colored gloves and a large rough
straw turban after the Spanish toreador
style will be worn with this gown. a
walking stick will also be carried and
single magnifying eyeglass will bangle
from fine gold chain about the neck.
There are a dozen fine white linen shirt
waists for hot summer days and these
have the yokes and front pieces embroid-
cred by hand as delicately as a pocket
handkerchief. They have very high stock
collars, with bows and ends in front, and
white pearl dumbbell studs are in each
cuff, to show how simple are the access
series of a shirt waist. Women worth
few thousands would probably have gold
studs set with diamonds, but not so with
the future Mrs. Vanderbilt.
There are some lovely fresh white pique
gowns also for the hot summer days. and
these have little jackets, most beautifully
enriched with white braiding, one gown
having the pique cut away in places under
the embroidery.
There is one beautiful, dainty white
muslin with a long, floating skirt covered
with little inch-deep ruffies and having
| the bodice set in with the most delicate
needlework. The arms and neck show
! through plainly in this and a pale-blue
sash ties about the waist
! A hat of leghorn heaped with tumbltng
white ostrich plumes will be worn with
this, and Will make it an ideal summer
toilet such as one reads about in old
fashioned poetry.