Arizona republican., 1899-08-08
ROME IN SUMMER.
When he Tourists Vanish the City As
serts Itself.

Those who visit Rome in winter or
in April. lave rot realized its full
charms for in those seasons ii ewes
| its appearances of life chiefly to the
''fore:tiari." The people themselves
! have not yet issued from their shells.
where they NOPE or laze. shrunken
wish cold or else aching with ''Scir-
| Coco which does not as rule. affect
| he foreigner Until he has resided here
| for some time
But now that the tourists have van
i>led lack to their fashionable cen-
ters Rome asserts itself The ''joie
De vivre' testifies itself although her
stress The air blows fresh and
sweet from the Towering "campagna"
under the morning sun. Faces look
happy. the step seems lighter than
usual. eyes are brighter and cool col
ored costumes predominate.
The middle hours of the day are. of
course. too hot. ard they are passed
indoors. over the family meal, the 81
esta. etc After / Oc'Ock the streets
have developed a shady side to some
purpose and they therefore become
pcpulOus once more. this time rather
with fashionable than industrial folk.
and one paUSeS a moment perhaps TO
reflect how much beauty, male and
female. has frequented the -COrso'
since the days of Hannibal for it WAS
originally he Via Flaminia" or ratll-
err. ii is still such. although owing TO
vandalism. not of the real Nandals and
Goths and NormaEs. but of the
Popes and their ''nephews" it has lost
the triumphal arches which formerly
s3anned it and divided it ir,o living
measuq,.d raragrap hs. For yOnder
where thar young officer in blue and
silver is twisting his mustachios. while
a gro1rp of black and white nuns pass
Is him. stood until 1862. the arch of
Marcus Aurelirs and Lucius Nerus.
destroyed then by Alexander VII
eChigD merely because it interfered
with his horse races q Eastertide.
Various indeed are the figures orc
sees during wander through the de
Iightful network of 5hese streets. II
the morning there is less crowding. 30
that they stand out more wildly. At
the corners here and there stand pic
turesque country women with white, |
folded headcloths. selling wild straw
berries. which scent the fresh air. or
weighing out cherries in old fashioned /
scales and chat;ering TO their custom /
ers all the time. Presently various |
other interesting figures ass by-a
black and white monk. wearing a red |
cross upon his habit. going about the T
business of his convent vendar of /
lemon water. the favorite drink of the /
lower classes of Rome in summer. |
with painted wagon and all the nee
essary paraphenalia, glasses, taps.
squeezers. etc. calling '.CCOl drinks.
cool drinks" And. stepping up to an
other level and another street. one
passes by dark Goorways which frame |
the usual dark woman knitting. and at
the same time experimenting huge
baskets of eggs for sale or green Gu
cumbers and tomatoes faring red.
Bur enough of people. Peep into
this court of my lords palazzo; it is
Il veritable fine peristylium. as of old.
with a large white marble fountain
in its center. whose singing waters
drop from three twisted Golphins and
overflow glittering into a capaci0us
basin. from which spring up luscious
clumps of Towering arum. All around
it wind neat formal gravel pa;hs.which
lead around palms and deodaras and
oleanGerS. Upon everything the sun
is now blazing, while UP above in the
bue air the swallows and swifts are
whirlirg in wild. happy flights. How
cool and fragrant it viii be when eve
ming cOneS-IOndOn Globe