The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1899-10-17

Fur is one OF the leading trimmings
for dresses as well as outdoor garments
this year, the fad even going SO far that
fur is used to trim tea gowns and NATL
nees. For facings and revers on jackets.
both long and short, particularly of black
velvet or a dark shade of cloth, ermine
viii be far and away in the lead, with
chinchilla a good second. Last season
only black velvet was used in combina-
tion with the last named fur, but this
year royal purple and a rich plum shade
will also be to the fore for long and short
velvet coats. The humble skunk has
found favor in Madame La Modes eyes
as a fur trimming, and will be extremely
fashionable. Entire toques will be conf
posed of chinehiila. and the same fur will
he much worn as trimming on hats. Mar
ten is conspicuous on house gowns, put
ON both skirt and waist in one broad or
several narrow bands divided by cream
colored lace insertion. -Incongruous as
this combination of fur and lace may APP
pear, it is the very properest thing, and
the effect is really admirable.
Fur eapes promise to play a prominent
part among fur garments this winter,
those of chinchilla, skunk, astrachan,
Persian lamb, z~ibeline, and for evening
wear ermine, being most fashionable.
They are quite short, reaching barely to
the waist line, where they are finished
with a shaped bounce of the fur. On
some of the handsomest ones these
founces are Iined with lace and continue
up the front to the throat A high, far
ing collar is their invariable finish.
A decided innovation that is very smart,
from its novelty and oddly, is the fashion
49, 80 -, - 4- nnI nnoI
pieces at the throat with a bow of lace,
frequently augmented by a jeweled clasp
or bunch of roses or violets, as shown in
our Illustration. Then to be entirely proper
a little fur toque trimmed DO match
should be worn. Graya squirrel and Rus
sian hare. the latter with some small
black tails added, is a good substitute for
ermine, and will be much worn.
Fur used for trimming to be en- reggie
should contrast with the material;
dark and bluck furs on lieat shades. light
furs on medium or dark dresses. Large
boas Will be the height of Vogue. p~articu-
larly the blue, silver or common fox. and
those of the entire skin. with mounted
head. will again obtain. Minks and mar
tens will be exclusively used for the small
boa that simply encircles the throat.
Caracule is in great request for entire
Jackets and capes.
Two furs combined will be more stylish
than one alone for the shorter shoulder
capes. The one shown here is the very
newest shape. one dark fur composing
the cape proper, while a Fighter one forms
the collar and revers. ending in two long
tails below the waist The head on the
round all-fur nuff is new. as heretofore
trimming. such as heads, tails, ETC., has
been confined to the fancy muff. In fact,
animal heads which nave been out of
vogue several seasons back. promise to
be revived this winter. A naturalized
head in the centre of The back, at the
base of the collar, also distinguishes
many of these collars.
A preliminary peep at some Opening
gowns to dawn upon US later settles many
a doubt as to the little touches that make
or mar a dress, and proclaim its up-to-
dateness-ors lack of it. The yoke, we
may state with some degree of certainty,
is with us to stay. But on the handsome
new dress it does not spread out over
the sleeves as did the yoke peculiar TO
summer attire. If there must be some lit
tie extensions by way of broadening, let
them be of the bodice proper finished of
with appliques, or whatever decorative
scheme is employed. Blu let us look at
the dresses themselves.
Here is a beautiful thing in castor
broadcleth, one of the light shades. 1t is
embroidered all over, and 1t is openwork,
showing a foundation silk of the same
shade through the eyelets. The design is
elaborated round the edge of the over
skirt and the top of the bodice, which is
cut out to show a yoke and stock violet
and gold. deliberately wrought. The gold
is tinsel cloth finely woven, while violet
of both taffeta and narrowest ribbon are
employed. 1t is exceedingly rich.
Another is in nickel gray broadcloth. a
new and alluring shade. It has its edges
enriched to a depth of four inches with
applique embroidery, chenille adding to
the effect. The little circular ruffies which
appear beneath the overskirt are edged
with velvet folds in the same shade
Glow much richer are velvet than satin
foIdsD The yoke, which is elongated to
the belt in front, is of ribbon and che
Mile wrought cream-white lace, with a
touch of turquoise velvet at the edge OF
the stock.
Wonderfully elegant Is a dress already
shown. It is of deep castor miroir velvet.
which amounts to a pinky brown with
gold glints. And somehow lights and
shades are coaxed over 1t in a way to
make undulating stripes In addition to
this. there's a polka dot effect. But it's
all the same color. 1t has d plain, three
piece overskirt. which follows the shape
of the skirt, but being about five inches
shorter. The bodice is in lengthwise
strips about an inch and a half wide.
and they end in pointed tops. which come
just high enough to outline a yoke This
yoke is of knotted, heavy threads (the
same that has been used to featherstitch
together the stripes and is over cerise
taffeta, which forms all Innings and fac
ings.
That much exploited habit hack shows
IN novel ways, and isn't necessarily a part
of the bodice. as is shown on one rEh
brown cloth tailor rig with stitched velvet
strappings, and a clever, faring. perky
collar and revers with velvet facing fairly
covered with stitching. The small amount
of skirt fullness in the back is held snugiy
by means of a cluster Of tiny tueks five
inches long. The cluster is three and a
half inches wide, and this forms the habit
back, the Elton just covering the belt.
The spangie is still with US. There's no
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