The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1899-03-12
MODES OF TRAVEL IN CUBA.
DIFFICULTIES FOR STRANGERS IN
GETTING ABoUT THE ISLAND.

10 "s-AAN
Trains Slow, Fares High. Coaches Crowde,
with BnEEnge-In the Interior on Horse
back-Comfortsble volantes-Cnbmen Xix,
Those Observation-Disclosures Coaches
HAVANA. March s.-How to get about ovol
the island is something that puzzles most o
the visitors TO Cuba, Many OF them como with
queer potions regarding the means and mode,
OF travel. Since more people arc coming. in.
formation on these points may be timely.
It is possible to 20 from Havana on the rail,
road directly west 10 the town OF Pinar del Rio
= distance OF 40 miles. A railroad also runs
from Havana to Guanaiay. 35 miles out. in the
northeastern part OF Pinar del Rio province.
These two lines traverse the Vuelta Abaio to-
bacoo region and also part OF the Pnrtidos dis
trict, which is In the province OF Havana.
Coasting vessels make trips from this city
along the north coast west. touching at eight
or ten fishing villages. From these villages
journeys may he made TO the hills Of the in
terror on horseback. At some places there is
a paSsable road. but It Is usually a short one.
On the south coast OF Pinar del Rio there Is
nothing TO see except keys and swamps. The
only p which is entered by light-drauz ht
vessels. lie Coloma. From it n very good mac
ada mized highway traverses the fifteen miles
TO the town OF Pinar del Rio.
The railroad System extends east from Ha-
vana 250 miles. By this road it is possible to
visit the coast towns without the inconveni-
ence OF a sea trip. for there are branch lines
running both north and south. At this season
there 10 not much TO see in the interior. Some
OF the sugar mills are grinding, but agricul-
ture generally is recuperating slowly. For the
tourists the most interesting town is Matanzas.
with tho nils Of Cumbre and Monserrate. the
valleys Of Yumuri and San Juan and the caves
- nj a. r... ~-A - l.
sRailroad travel in Cuba is not luxurious. yet,
considering that the distances are short. IL is
fairly comfortable. Fares continue to be very
high. averaging seven or eight cents a mile in
gold first class. and half as much for third
class. with the second. class midway. Ameri-
cans naturally prefer to travel lrst-class. 1.-THE
passenger coaches on some OF the lines are
roles OF bygone periods. On others they are
modern and adapted to the climate. Every
body smokes without first asking permission
Of the women who may be passengers. 1t Is
a custom OF the country and a smoking com
partment would not be appreciated. Every
body piles his baggage in the spaces between
the seats or In the aisles. Often the regular
passenger coach might be mistaken for the
baggage car. The reason for this is that bag
gage 10 not checked free. The charges for
carrying It are quite heavy. No limitation is
nut on the number OF pieces which a passen-
ter Is permitted to carry with him in a paasen-
ger coach. So he usually .stows away all his
belongings and perches himself on top half a
dozen valises. Live luggage ia also permitted.
Chickens travel either first, second or third
class without paying fare. Generally a pair of
them are tied together by the legs and thrown
carelessly under the seat. Sometimes they
get free from their fastenings and then there
is a lively time in the car. The story OF the
hen which paid its fare in eggs is not a fiction
In Cuba. That has been known to happen.
The railway lines which do not have regu-
lar eating houses along the route have a buffet
on the train. 1t is commonly located in the
car given over to the third class passengers.
A hungry traveller who finds his way there
have a choice of poor wines. good bread and
cold baked fish. There is also a case OF grd-
cioSos. or POD, with a little fruit. Beer is sold.
Cubans who have occasion to travel generally
carry their luncheons with them. The practice
is not a good one for American visitors to
Three Americans who were going on
a days journey had their hotel proprietor pre-
pare a luncheon for them. 1t consisted OF a
skinny chicken, two loaves Of bread and two
bottles OF cheap wine. When they came to set
tie their hotel bill they found a charge OF Sl3
for railroad luncheon. Others have had SINH
lar experiences. 1t is better and cheaper to
" ~ oLAi thoh ~ u q ~ CoIok
a railroad luncheon.
Most OF the railroads now run what are called
trens de cargo. or mixed local freights. These
give al excellent chance to see the country.
A good walker can keep up with them when
they are going at ordinary speed. With the
for switching It is possible to take an
excursion into the fields and back
again. The locomotives are always very
thirsty. for every other stop appears to BIZ at q
water tank. AT the stations the start lie an
nounced by the primitive method OF a hand
bell. A porter walks up and Town the plat
form and rings the bell two minutes before the
for departure. Five or six minutes later
the train pulls out. No train in Cuba Is sup
posed to start OH schedule time. The line out of
Havana which has most OF the suburban travel
has q time schedule on the exact hours. No
Cuban or Spaniard thinks Of getting to the
station on the hour. He allows himself five
minutes. with the certainty tina; he will have
two or three minutes to spare. The manager
OF this road was once asked what would hap
pen II he were to start the trains for three or
four days In succession at the advertised time.
N passengers" was his laconic response.
One morning at Matanzas an American had
left word with the hotel keeper to have a cab
to take him to the train which was due from
Havana at half-past 8. The cab was ready
= 1uhfo0t o.. JuSJ IHou u DdTIy OF ITl0DuS
arrived direct from the train with reproaches
for the failure to meet them. 1t was all the
fault. 10 smilingly explained that
while the schedule time OF the train was 8
O'Clock 1t never arrived until half pa st 8. How
1t happened to get In on time that morning he
did not know. but he was cure the mistake was
not intentional. The Cuban railroads are
passing into the control OF American capital
lists. and within a year or two 1t is likely that
there will be some Improvement In their man
aEemeDt.
For the travellers who want to leave the
main lines OF travel and go into the interior.
there IL only one mode OF conveyance. This is
horseback, or. II there be a party Of pros
pective, land buyers. o pack train Is easily or
A good Cuban horse which travels
steadily all day, a the "spndGine" gait OF the
and other accessories. takes another SIPS,
Thus prepared IT is not difficult, to get over .
stretch OF country In a given time. A
guide is a necessity. The roads. according
TO the mars. are base receptions. They ara
highways, But the peasant can travel on
hem better than the king, because frequently
sven the trail Is lost, and it is necessary 10 go