Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-06-03

ment was made of turquoise silk. This skirt
was cut to show four deep tabs-one before,
one behind and two on the hips. The tabs
were edged with chiffon ruching, and from
under them the silk fell in folds that gave
a picturesque fullness to the bottom OF
the skirt, which was edged below with q
row of chiffon ruching. The blouse was OF
silk. inset with a highly ornamental vest
of heavy lace. The sleeves were headed
with pointed pieces of lace and finished
with rows of chiffon ruching. No one could
accuse the modista who constructed 1t or
being guilty of lavish extravaganza IN the
way of trimmings. The truth is the gown
depended on the cut and fit for the priced
elegance that made the costume admired
of men and coveted by women.
The New Spiral Fiounces.
An afternoon costume. a hand-embroid-
cred garment of silk, that might be sue
cessfuily duplicated in embroidered linen,
handsome patterns of which are being
shown this season in the shops, was worn
by fair demoiselle whom 1 noticed among
the shoppers in the Rue de la Paix very
recently. The fiounces upon the skirt were
fastened upon the left side. giving spiral
effect to the trimming. The blouse trim
ming was particularly pretty. over the
shoulders was arranged pointed piece
consisting of narrow plaits along the edge
and special embroidery filled up the inter-
vening space. Under this the blouse con-
sisted OF alternate rows of parrow plalts
collar was a high embroidered one, fin
ished behind with f1ounces of lace. The
sleeves were a trifie fuller and, therefore,
more comferta bic than those seen on the
most ultra fashionable garments, but this
slight disregard of the extreme of the
style was compensated for by the novel
arrangement of the cuff that fell over the
hand in sort of scoop-shaped founce.
The narrow plaits Were arranged above
this in curved rows.
A garden party gown that 1 saw was OF
pearl white crepon, marvelously garnished
with soft white lace and narrow bands OF
white satin ribbon These bands of lace,
several inches wide, came down the front
of the skirt, suggesting overskirt. Be
ginning on the hips. shorter bands were
brought almost to the bottom of the skirt
on each side. The front and the adjacent
side pieces were united by rows of narrow
satin ribbon arranged in curves and con-
Unued under the side pieces to the back of
the gown. where they terminated in dainty
little bows. The blouse was fitted with a
square yoke of lace and with sleeves of the
same, through which the pink flesh was
limited at. Bands of wide lace outlined
each side Of an imaginary jacket and were
brought over narrow bands of the satin
ribbon that were placed just beneath the
yoke. Straps of ribbon fastened with bows
held the fictitious jacket over the shoulders
just above the arms. Two dainty bows on
the front of the bodice, together with the
ribbon over the shoulders, gave the only
touch of color to the toilet, for they were
of pale blue.
Gowns of an American Duchess.
The Duchesse de la Rochefoucauld, al
ways a well-dressed woman, wore a very
smart tailor-made dress the other after
noon when out for a drive. AS a great
modist had confided to me that he consid-
cred it one of the choicest things of that
sort which he has done this season, 1 was
particularly interested in noting its many
Projections 1t was cut to show a redin-
cote in white cloth, opening in front over a
double skirt of mauVe crepe de chine, en-
brOiGered in a darker shade. The collar
and the revers of the redingOte were of
crepe de chine shot in silver threads and
embroidered, as was the skirt. but in a
more minute pattern. The under-bodce
was a lovely arrangement of cream mousse
line de sole. covered with scrOll-like pat
tern in the finest baby ribbon. Skirt and
bodice We're divided by a handsome belt Of
old silver fastened with jeweleI clasp.
A Few Excellent Models.
1 should especially commend the muslin
gowns jusC about to be sent away to form
part of the summer trousseau of a fair de-
brtante who will accompany her mother
a little later to some of the watering places.
One of these gowns was of orchid mauve
and peach blossom pink. so cut as to be
absolutely tight-htting TO the knees,
even little below, / should judge. Where
1t begins to widen a band of embroidered
muslin indicated the change. the drapery
below spreading in very full fiounces about
the feet. Zach of the fiounces was edged
with dainty ruchings of white chiffon. The
bodice was almost plain, the drapery cross
ing under q chemisette of insertion and
lace. On the shoulders the transparent
sleeves were completed with a graceful frill
that fell we'll over the hand. the usefulness
of this arrangement being obvious when one
considers the tendency of the hands to look
their worst during the hot summer, when
wind and tan have chance to do their
worst and gloves are most uncomfortable.
CATHERINE TALBOT