The San Francisco call., 1899-12-24


steamer {: make headway against ~, 50
the vessels are compelled TO time them.
selves in reaching this spot In order tiiA'
they may have a safe passage throush.
There is a story told that some years
ago a certain United states guhDOat
reached these narrows at the dangerous
period OF the tide, and when the plot
In charge hesitated about taking the
passage he was instructed by the captain
that a United States man-Of-War coulu
go any place" and to steam ahead. She
steamed ahead and did go some place. she
went TO the bottom, and her bones are az
present lying there as result or MS TOOL
Ir the wider parts OF this inland passage
we encountered so many whales and por-
poises playing about the ship that they
soon ceased 10 attract attention. We were
told that on the trip Immediately preced-
Ing this one the steamer Al-Ki, on which
we were, struck a whale so hard that she
cut half through IL and the leviathan
stuck fast TO her bow. making IL neces-
sary for the sailors to go down with axes
and chop II in two before the boat could
proceed.
A curious feature OF the landscape that
presented itself In steaming through this
great timber country was an appearance
at the waters edge as IL the country was
entirely fenced in with an ordinary rail
fence. when we knew there were no fences
within hundreds of miles. This appear
ance Is caused by great trees falling into
the water and being buffeted about until,
stripped OF their bark by the action Of
the water, they are finally thrown upon
the beach, where they lie In such pro-
fusion bleaching in the sun that they take
on the appearance of fence rails. and thus
produce the illusion referred 10.
The first sight We had Of the natives.
except here and there an occasional canoe
slipping along under shelter OF the land.
was on turning a bend OF the stream,
about three days out from the Sound. We
came upon comfortable looking village
OF wooden cottages called Bella Bella. 1
counted seventy houses. all properly paint
ed and comfortable looking, and differing
only from the white mans town In that
they looked cleaner. while on the outskirts
stood a collection Of the ever present to-
TEN poles.
We at last landed from the steamer at
a funny little semi Indian
village named Loring. or, as the Indians
call II. Naha. II is sustained entirely by
the fishing industry, the Alaska CONNER
cial Company having large cannery
there The fish are caught by the natives.
who appear to be very thrifty and con-
tract with the cannery annually 10 supply
them with fish, while the squaws and chill
dren work In the various packing houses.
The natives are extremely inquisitive.
and exact the privilege OF ransacking all
ones outfit and belongings; but they seem
to be prompted simply by childish curl
osity and have reputation among the
white settlers Of being absolutely honest.
One industrious native has large saw
mill near Loring. in which he employs
many hands and supplies the prospecting
villages that are rapidly springing up with
lumber. Another native has q cooper
shop and is skilled workman. He told
us that he learned his trade in the Gov
ernment school at Sitka. In the winter ne
gets out his barrel stuff from the woods,
and spends the summer in making barrels.
for which he has contract with the can
merry for all he can furnish at % cents
apiece. He told us that nc could maze
ten barrels a day. which at that rate did
not seem altogether bad for an Indian.
Many Of the natives can read and write.
having been taught at Sitka. and are
much envied by those who have not been
so fortunate. Sitka is the Mecca OF the
Alaskan natives. and from my experience
and conversations had with them ] wish
/ TO acknowledge the inestimable work that
/ is being done there by the Government.
After inspecting the Loring cannery we
! were prOffered the use Of small boat
with which 10 pay a visit 10 the lake" ,"
a body Of water a short distance from the
village. Our instructions were 10 row up
/ an arm Of the sea until we came 10 GER
! tain waterfall. make the boat fast and
/ walk around and above the fall where
we would nnd another boat, in which
VIC could continue our trip. We did as
directed, and upon turning a bend In the
/ stream came upon the beautiful picture OF
! a sheet OF water about 4 hundred feet
/ wide pouring over a precipice about If
/ teen feet in height. We left the boat
moored 10 the bank and finding the other
/ boat as directed. We rOwed 10 an island
near the midle Of the lake where we
/ landed and were surprised To find growing
! thereon salmonberries. huckleberres and