The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1899-09-13

Velvet and satin antique stand nrst
among tissues this season. A GOOD deai
will also be done with soft, rien SATIN Oh
the Liberty order. For covering mats
velvet only obtains. and It VIII gener-
ally be laid on fiat. or drawn up INTO
honeycomb gathers. Pulled arrangements
are decidedly out of the running, but the
torsade, or thick coil of material, IS
maintained more particularly for toaues
"a double torsade following the edge OF
tha brim. and then twisted into a knot in
front, being a favorite way Of trimming
them.
a pretty effect is obtained by using
velvet for one torsade and satin antique
for the other. Even where the same
shade is chosen for the two there is a
slight diversity in the coloring, owing to
the difference of texture. Some sort or
buckle is the usual complement to a
knotted torsade. Buckles curved back
ward are most applicable to this purpose,
and also for setting in the middle OF
bows made of piece material or of very
wide ribbon.
The dull and bright gilt buckles that
had superseded, to an extent, those in
simili. are being superseded again by
buckles set with Rhine pebbles only, or
with pearls and pebbles, say the Mil
lInery Trade Review Many Of these
are really works of art. and add very
considerably to the price of a hat. How
ever. they are to be had in all qualities,
and firms are showing them in great va
riety of form and design, the most X
nensive as wen as the comparatively
cheap.
49, =1-r11-xr L. oTrnocf aNffrA1K C0n-
fined this year to buckles. Pins are in
little demand. spangles, which, however,
can hardly be classed under this head,
will be reserved more especially to even
ing tocues and capotes. They are UNI
suited to the style likely to obtain most
In smart day hats. which are rather
handsome and heavy in their general APP
pearance.
American buyers seem to have given
their preference TO the more novel forms,
particularly the large toque. For the dec
grafton Of these handsome couteaux, ar
rangements of breast plumage, or of small
supple quilts. laid one over the other, and
wings. are most in request.
Many Of the new hats are trimmed with
plumes of cocks feathers. the half long
feathers Of the tail and wings, more or
less curved. The tendency is ~undoubted-
Is 70 preserve a certain homogeneity of
tone. therefore. plunage artificially tint
ed is more in demand than natural toned
feathers.
During the fall a great deal win be done
with painted feathers. and milliners ana
others doing a popular business will find
a brisk sale for spotted. parti-colored and
other fancffully adorned couteaux
throughout the season.
To a certain extent. plumes enter into
the composition of the early winter
models. but are seldom placed outside
"A big cluster of roses is sometimes placed
against a brim turned up in front, or
a little bunch of velvet pansies under
meath o fiat brim in front Of the left
ear. In some cases dahlias are substitute
ed for roses, and there is little doubt
that violets will run pansies close as soon
as the winter really sets in.
There has been a good deal of talk
about black velvet flowers, and their APP
plication to between-season millinery, but
It does not seem as If they had caught
the fancy of the milliners who make for
the American buyers.
Nor have these been much tempted by
the fancy ribbons which are being largely
used to trim country and other autumn
hats, in combination with all manner of
quill feathers, couteaux. frigates and the
like. frequently clipped into the most
fantastic shapes at their extremities-
Plain ribbons are a great deal favored.
but are only required in very wide widths.
Aisace bows are made both OF piece ma
terials and of ribbons. In the latter case
the edges of the ribbon are turned under
meath so that the effect is almost iden-
teal. The large bows used to decorate
hats. and which one usually puts on the
right side of the crown to balance a
plume of feathers on the left, or else al
most in front, are made, also, of very
wide ribbon, with two or three loops on
each side, gathered W very narrow in
the middle and clasped about with a
curved buckle. Beside these various ar
rangements of ribbons and material into
large bows, torsades and knots. there is
a new kind of rosette which is formed
of a broad band of satin folded double,
and then twisted round in spiral form into
the vague resemblance of a huge half
open rose.
Rosettes Of velvet ribbon. either quite
narrow or half-inch in width, although
they nave been worn for some time, will
be maintained for the winter, more es-
pecially for placing underneath brims
when they take the place OF flowers.
A third kind of r~osette, composed of q
plated band of velvet either plated dou-
BILE or lined with satin, which is fiat. like
a wheel Of which the folds form the
spokes, Is not only set edge forward IL
the front of toques and capotes cocks
comb fashion. as described abovel, blu
also against the crowns of hats, an'
against the ears of small capotes, max
ing the latter resemble the headdresse:
worn by the Dutch peasantry.
The a~ll-important question of colors i
not to be disposed of by mere references
to the card issued by the Union des Syn
dicats this season. The list in question
contains some brilliant crimson ant
s~carlets and crude greens which do no
seem likely to be adopted by the hes
houses. where there is a decided ten
dency toward low tints, the exceptions t.
this rule being in favor of the rose ant
coral plnks. Moreover. the light gray
greens lack variety; they are only repre-
sented by two shades, Reseda in tn
third column. and Lezard, the last sampl
but one on the card, and their position
would hardly lead the uninitiated Il
suppose that these and kindred shade
--ovatsa "a he 1nonp the nnoSt faShion