The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, 1899-02-26

dreds of thousands OF dollars also resort
to this device, securing peace of mind by
sending their real jewels TO a safety de-
posit vault, and wearing clever limitations
at receptions, theatres and balls.
To the ieweler the word paste" means
glass. Sometimes one hears this material
called "whitestone" or ''strass,'' but these
are terms employed by the trade alone. and
not in talking with customer. They ap
ply only to limitations of diamonds. The
business of making jewels is at least two
centuries old. Some of the accounts of the
invention of strasS say that it was known
in Strasburg as long ago as 1880. One au
thority attributes the name to the city
where it first made its appearance, and an
other to the man who devised il, Josef
Strasser. The word rhinestone" is also
employed TO describe the same article, and
is an allusion to the great stream on
which the paste diamond made its debut.
However, rhinestone" is applied TO large
specimens. such as are suitable for clasps
and buckles, and are SO enormous that no
one could possibly mistake them for dia-
monds, whereas paste is used to desig-
nate an imitation jewel, of about the same
composition as the rhinestone, but small
enough to look like real stone.
A number of formulate have been de-
vised in order to produce glass OF the
right hardness, brilliancy. and purity.
The Jewellers Circular" an enterprisinS
trade weekly published in this city, re-
Gently gave number of them. and re-
marked at the same time that for a CEN
fury or more no book on glass was consid-
cred complete without chapter on imi
tation jewels. Even for making paste"
there is a variety of methods and mixtures.
and 10 produce good likenesses of rubies,
emeralds, amethysts, and other colored
stones the composition must be different
from any of these.
To "a certain extent the iewelry trade
recognizes this industry as Legitimate.
That is TO say, there are dealers in Maiden
Lane who unhesitatingly advertise Real
and Imitation Stones" II you go in and
ask to see stock you are asked without hes
itation or disguise whether you want TO
examine the real article or an imitation.
Moreover there are numerous houses,
notably in Providence and Attleboro, which
! manufacture earrings, finger rings, shirt
| studs, brooches. belts. buckles, clasps, and
! other articles in various grades OF gold
and set with imitation jewels. None Of
| the latter are made in America They are
| all imported. But the mounting is done
| here, and without apparent intent to de-
| ceiye at least so far as the manufacturer
| is concerned. The retailer who buys from
him is not fooled. He goes into the trans
action with his eyes open. Perhaps for
|
gives to his glass diamond fancy name.
like "The Dewey Brilliant" THE Evening
Star" The Cigarette. THE Melba." or
| The Kimberley" but he does not lie about
| its character.
Most OF the cheaper limitations come
from a country famous for its other glass
ware Bohemia. But the better ones are
made in the Jura region OF France, not
very far from the birthplace of strass. The
less expensive limitations are nodded, like
pressed" glass tumblers or dishes. The
more costly are cut, and the quality of the
cutting counts for almost as much with the
importer as color and lustre. limitations
that cost from 10 cents to 50 apiece look tc
the uninitiated like jewels which would
cost from S75 to $500. but their nature is
easily detected by an expert who has &
number of tests at his disposal
Besides the glass jewel there is another
imitation. or partial imitation, known t
the trade as the "doublet" This consist:
of a bit of glass on top OF which Is careful
Iy cemented a slice Of genuine stone-ruby