The Goodland republic. [volume] (Goodland, Kan.) 1891-1907, 1899-09-29
GOWNS OF SILK cREPON.
Lovely Creations nat Are Built over
Foundations Of Black
TEGetH-

A lovely gown OF black silk crePOn
is made over q foundation OF black
taffeta silk which has six OF seven Tuf-
fes set inside Of the skirt, giving 1t q
fluffy look when raised, but not IN
terfering with the Princess-hke sweep
Of the upper drapery. The crePon IS
laid On the foundation in an unbroken
eject, the bottom being scallOPed and
trimmed with narrow ruchings Of chif-
fon. The waist is Of crepOn, with q
heavily jetted yoke which extends low
on the bodice and is finished with
set Of tiny scollops with the chiffon
ruchinEs. The stock Is Of chiffon, with
tracery Of let beads and Is relieved
at the upper edge by narrow fold
Of cerise mirror velvet, which softens
the black and corresponds with the
girdIe which is also Of Jet relieved by
a tiny waist Of velvet. The sleeves are
Of ietted chiffon, and are wrinkled on
the arm, ending In a small twist Of vel
vet. The hat is Of tucked black chiffon,
the high crown being heavily jetted and
encircled by a band Of black velvet tied
In front in a smart bow. The trimming
consists Of a bunch Of ostrich tips set
well to one side. Under the brim at
the back there is Just a suggestion Of
the cerise velvet which relieves the SOM
Der tone Of the hat and brings 1t into
harmony with the remainder Of the
costume. The parasol is black chiffon
with narrow shirrings which give
fluffy and becoming finish. While the
crepons are light enough in texture to
11F Ia for 1f a
wear the majority Of them, from the
character Of the patterns and the rich
ness Of the fabric, are really better
suited for early fail and for winter
wear; the extra weight can be given
them by employing a heavier lining silk
and by using more elaborate trimmings.
A walking gown which presents an
extremely good effect is of a deep shade
Of violet broadcloth Of medium weight.
The tunic skirt is laid on the silk
foundation without q wrinkle; the
jacket is close fitting and can be left
open, 70 show the uuderwaist Of pale
violet silk, or can be tightly fastened
showing only the revers Of white silk,
which are closely braided in black
soutache. A turban OF tOque Of black
so arranged in the folding as to re-
semble a large rose, forms the founda-
ton for a cluster Of slender black wings
which stand up in a jaunty manner.
A golden brown rainy day suit Of the
fashionable reversible materials has the
inside in a mixture Of brown and or
ange. The skirt Just reaching the an
kles has eight or ten rows Of tailor
stitching; the skirt is tight fitting
about the hips, flares widely at the bot
tom, and as the material is heavy and
somewhat why, swings clear Of the
ankles. The shirt waist IS Of golden
brown liberty satin and is absolutely
plain being made after the same pat
tern as a wash waist; instead Of
siIzen stock 1t has a band and linen
collars with bright coIored fOur-in-
hands are worn. The jacket is Of the
same material, the plaid serving as
lining, the seams being bound with
brown The jacket shows narrow
laPels and a tightly rolled collar, while
the sleeves are as close fitting as it is
possible to make them and yet admit
Of the free play Of the arms. A jaunty
little felt hat with a band Of ribbon
and a quill, together with stout walk
ing boots and a tightly rolled brown
silk umbrella completes a costume in
which the plsinest damseI would look
attractive and the Prettiest girI-pret-
tier still These rainy days gowns are
the most sensible things which have yet
in the line Of dress reform;
they are not Sc short as to expose the
feet and hosiery, and yet are short
enough TO escape the wet pavements
and leave the hands free for umbrella
and package Besides they are so warm
that they can be worn with tights and
white skirts, those denominations on
rainy days, bedraggIed, limp and muS
can be dispensed with.
As the materials come in every. pos
sible shade Of light and dark gray,
brown, blue, green, olive, red. plum
and the variations thereof, it should
not be a difficult matter to make a
choice and as the wrong side is equal
" beautiful with the right double sat
sfacdOn can be secured; one thing,
however, is absolutely essentiaI-these
suits must be strictly tailor made and, |
more over, made by a tailor-which is |
lot always the same thing-as many
discover to their great chagrin.-Chi- |
ago Chronicle.
The Voice in the SfcIz-Room