The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1899-08-13

01ullS, anu on the steamers to be Orna-
mental, to be able to arrange herself in
a wicker chair and to glance now and
then at the sailing boats through a pair
OF small, handsome glasses slung by a
ribbon across the shoulders, is the whole
duty of the gentle salt
While white and pale pink and navy
blue have become devoted to the service
of the sea women, green is growing as
precious to the golfer as to the patriotic
Hibernian. Last year it was red and only
red that the women would wear for coats
and Shirts necktieS and stockings, while
now there are ninety-nine in green to
every hundredth woman who wears pink
Skirts are dropped to the ankle, and are
usually of a tweed that shows a notified
green and brown surface, while the shirts
run the whole verdant gamut from sober
olive ad what is called vegetable green
to bright peagreen oVerspread with yell
low or black microbe dots
While the effort of the tailor is merely
to cast pleasing variety into his golf
studies, with the automobile costume he
Is still in the throes of creation. Never
Tor any length of time nor in public will
the American woman wear red. With her
instructive good taste she feels that it
does not chime with her coloring, and it
is a fact, strange but true, that no
Woman's figure ever appears anything
but short wasted and dumpy in a red
gown. Deprived of any chance to evolve
interesting studies in scarlet, the tailors
have done wonders in combinations. and
blue and buff is as nice an arrangement
of uniform la belle chauffeuse could
desire. pretty autOmobiliSt at Bar
Harbor spins about in her gasoline dog
cart in strapped-seam skirt of pale buff
cloth, frightened about hip and foot with
curlycues done in turquoise-blue mohair
braid. A white duck shirt heavily en-
he
lated duck shirt waists should be- in three
broad bands of blue, accompanies the buff
skirt. No small coat goes with this for
cape is what the chauffeuse prefers usu-
ally to carry, and the cape, in the case
referred to, was made of plaid molleton
cloth in buff and blue crossbars, lined
with blue silk, and showing a pudding
hood also lined with blue. A white straw
hat, with a crown band of blue velvet
and one big argus quill, and a pair of
one-button gazelle skin gloves completed
the story. When coat is carried by a
woman in her automobile it is long box
shaped affair bristling with pockets of
sizes so various that they will hold any,
thing from a cent to a cabbage and made
of the very light, very warm Scotch goods
called fleececloth. The coat is almost
certain to be buff and lined with blue,
and It's buttons are big silver or mother
of-pearl disks, engraved with the owners
initials. 1t is observed that the owners
OF automobiles carry lOng-handled, long
dashed carriage whips, usually for the
benefit Of small dogs that attempt to i'm
peril their lives near the wheels of the
machine, the handle end finished like a
riders crop.
Let 1t be here impressed upon the
woman who is soft-hearted and non-re-
sisting under any temptation in shirt
waists that the gymkhana is the proper
type of blouse to patronize 1t is the
shirt waist, cut conveniently in the back,
laid in three short, narrow box pleats on
the shoulder, and borrowing all it's splen-
dor from it's embroidered ornamentation
In the spring the leading duck waist was
white, spotted in small squares or disks
worked in pink or blue or lilac silk. Now
we have the newest waists from London
of white cotton corduroy with three heavy
bands Of embroidery IN a bright color
running lengthwise of the bosom Added
to these are shirts of French flannel with
the embroidered bands at the back as
well as in front, and every band two
inches wide. 1t may be added that a yoke
at the back of shirt waist of pique or
flannel is considered out OF style. A Sc
ries of small tucks, converging to a close
group at the waist line, gives the back
sufficient reinforcement, and all the silk
and flannel waists for autumn will have
small round cuffs, fastened with two
small stud buttons instead of links.
The American wOman's foot, along
with her waist and her intellect, is stead
lily charging. Any shoemaker will bear
out this assertion and give a string of
good reasons for the phenomenon. Golf
seems to be at the bottom of it, though
a remarkably handsome, comfortable tie
is made for use on the fair green. This
season brown shoes have been in the lead,
and in place of rubber soles a skin OF wa
terproof silk is introduced under the lin
Ing of the shoe and prevents any damp
ness from reaching the foot. For dancing
the women have given all their patrOHaS sc
to the slippers with half French heels,
toes somewhat rounded and The whole
foot covering held quite firm with straps
across the instep. Sometimes as many as
six very narrow beaded bands are clasp
ed upon the top of the foot by means of
six very small bright jeweled buckles
and after long use of the leather slipper
the fashionable women have gone back
to an advocacy of black satin. A black
satin dancing shoe with a chrysan-
themum in the finest jet beads on the
toe, the interior of the shoe lined with
white or mauVe silk on which the owners
name is embroidered, and with five straps
fastened with buttons of brilliants arch
ing over the instep, is the most luxurious
thing in slippers we have had over from
Paris this year. In place of the patent
leather pumps that were at once so or
namental and so comfortable, the patent
leather dancing shoe now appears with a
high heel and high bUckled flap over the
instep The style of it is colonial, though
It's official title is the gypsy shoe, and
many women have silver plates attached
to their tall slipper heels, so that an APP
propriate click-clack is heard at every
step across a bare floor.
Stockings with demonstrations Of lace
have had their day and have now given
way to dancing hose of black spun silk,
either delicately open-worked on the in
step or split up the outside of the ankle
for space of about five inches. The
long slit is closed by a lacing of bebe
ribbon in cherry, canary yellow, or ciel
blue, or with cords made of slightly
twisted tinted floss, and at the top of the
ribbon or floss is tied in a saucy bow
Such a stocking is not certainly to be
recommended to a golfer, but with a gyp-
sy dancing slipper 1t is not likely to pass
| unnoticed or unadmired in a ballroom
What the very smart woman wears of
an afternoon with her crisp muslin driv-
ing dress is a strapped slipper that can
| not help but show off her slim round
| ankles clad in cobalt blue spun silk, pow
/ dered with dots Of crimson or white that
are not embroidered on, but each one of
| which is a downy puff of silk not larger
than sugar-coated pill and tackled to the
| stocking. Golfers with their green
! gowns have rather a liking for clear pop
Ply red stockings speckled with black, or
green hosiery is adopted of a tone that
matches the shirt waist and is similarly
spotted.
! The price at which the silk blouse keeps
the feminine public ever true to its charm
is unflagging variety of color and decora-
! ton. Now that tucked silk and satin