The Anaconda standard., 1899-10-01
Written for the Sunday Standard.


Never was there such a variety in
the shapes of hats. 1t is impossible
even to mention their variations and
their widely differing aspects. Among
the quaintest is the shape with the
funny little high crown and the cur
tain-like band downward from the
the edge of the brim. You can behold
It in our large illustration this week,
not failing to notice its rows of stitch
ing and its fringed scarf. These stitch
ed velvet cloth and felt hats are tre-
mendous success, not solely, let us
hope, because they are new, but be-
cause the broken lights and shades
caused by the stitching are very be-
coming. Heretofore there has been
hardness about the felt hat which has
been a serious objection. 1t was be-
coming only to the fresh, young face.
but now all the handsome new felts
are, as I have said. stitched, or they
are pressed into ridges which simulate
the overls piping of wide straw braid,
and women of all ages can wear them.
These hats need but little trimming
and are a real triumph of the design
er's skill. Beaver brown was the chic
wear of Paris last year and will be
the general wear there this year. 1t
is a high novelty with us. however,
and as such it must be noted that pale
blue and mauve and certain shades of
pink are the accessories most charm
ing thereto.
OF outing hats there are an infinite
variety also. For these, to my mind,
there is no prettier tAimming than the
gay bandanna handkerchiefs, or the
silks in bandanna patterns.
Autumn Blouses.
Quite the latest fad in the making
of the cotton or silk shirts is to have
gathered tucks. This sounds some
what extraordinary. but is extremely
pretty in effect. The tucks are run
perpendicularly, but instead of being
kept fiat the cotton is pulled Slightly
with the result that the tucks flute
and stand out a little, while the back
ground is puckered. A shirt of glace
silk in old rose tint 1ookeds very dainty
made thus, and in the thinner fabrics,
such as chiffon, mousseline, batiste, it
is especially pretty and certainly far
more easily accomplished than when
each tuck had to be kept so very fiat
and smooth.
Another new notion is to have the
tucks SO infinitesinal that. except when
in the hand, they do not look like tucks
at all. They are absolutely no wider
than the pin-point stripes on materials
with which we are all familiar. They
are not placed very near together, and
the general effect is just a rippled ap-
pearance. One sees that the material
is now plain, and yet-and yet-wha;
is it? A query only to be answered
when the shirt is handled. Then there
are the craquele silks, woven to pro.
duce the same effects. Entire blouses
are made of this silk, with soft jabo
draperies of the silk meeting in the
center of the front and extending tt
the waist line.
Cordings, I ventured to predict
short time ago. would come greatly int
favor again in rivalry Of the ever pres
ent tucks My prophecy is now work
ing out its own confirmation, and witt
very happy results. A beautiful blouse
hailing from one of the great houses
in Paris, had a yoke and vest of ma
genta velvet, corded in similar fashion
round the throat and in semi-circle
down the front. Over this came tn
lace bodice mounted upon magent
silk, and long, unlined lace sleeves. Tn
1larshness of the velvet was relieve,
by erratically arranged fallings of lace
For "a wear and tear blouse moth
ing can be prettier or more endurin
than that of good soft silk, made quit
simply with sailor collar and separat
vest One in cornflower blue had set
of upright tucks back and front; tn
collar was of the same silk, edged wit
killing to match, but beyond was an
other killed frill of white silk. TIL
tucked vest, collar and sailor knot wer
also of white, and were detachable
A good idea was here carried out by a.
economically minded woman who kney
well by bitter experience that, thougl
the blue silk would go through man
adventures without showing signs o
age, the white would become pitiabl
dowdy very quickly. She was by n
means a. wealthy woman, but could no
endure dirty finery" SO that, whel
packing into her dainty box" as sh
called it, went two extra vests one o
white and one Of pale blue, each witt
ready-kilted frills and ends for tn
sailor bow. For a. moment I did no
see the drift of the killings, but wit
a little amused smile upon her face, sh
explained that she always had tn
white frills only tackled in, so that the
We're easily removed and replaced b