The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1899-07-15

1t is now thAt the exquisite cFedllOAs,
confectionnee' as the French have it,
made in the early days of spring, are
being brought from their long, scented
boxes and shown to an admiring public.
There is no place so suitable as a setting
for these as the wide, shady porches
here, where just to live in a rocking
chair and look beautiful is the sum total
of existence.
I am almost afraid to try to tell of the
dainty gowns one sees here at Saratoga,
for it requires a vocabulary embracing
every adjective in the English language
and a few French ones.
There was one dress made entirely of
ribbon and black fshnet. The ribbon was
a rich dark blue. The lining to the skirt
was silk of the same shade. On each
edge of the ribbon was a double shirring
of other ribbon half an inch wide.
The ribbon and lace were sewn togeth-
er, making the whole garment appear
like striped goods. The lower part of the
skirt had wider ribbon, and this narrow
ed gradually to the waist. This also was
of the net and ribbon. So were the
sleeves. A full rufie of lace was sewn
at the wrists.
The waist was made surpiice fashion
with an inner vest with collar of pale
blue Grape de chine. I think this same
model would be beautiful with dark red,
with the black or gold color. In fact,
the design could be developed in a dozen
ways.
Pale blue-the very palest shades
very becoming to a brunette; more so, l
think, than to a blond, but the intermedi-
ate shade, between light and dark. makes
a brunette look sallow. Dark blue is be-
coming to almost every one.
A suit like this one, to be complete,
should have hat and parasol to match.
The hat for this had a fine white turban
ibrim, with a regular rolled crow of
black fshnet over blue malines. Three
pale pink crush roses were put at the
back.
Tit parasol was of pale blue ~taffeta,
with delicate, hand painted, pale pink
peoples with shadowy leaves. Around
the edge there was a deep piece of crepe
lisse shirred in pretty rufiles-fveo of them.
A rosette of the same was set on the top
and on the handle.
Handles of parasols are really works
of art in these days, and there is no exact
rule to govern them. | saw in half an
hour perhaps 80 different styles. There
are round knobs Of porcelain, painted and
inlaid, and also of malachite, agate and
onyx, mounted with gold and silver, long
handles of mosaic and enameled work,
some of it intricate and highly artistic.
Others have richly chased handles of
gold or silver. with insets of turquoise,
coral or imitation gems or semiprecious
stones. Still others there are where the
handles are made of blackthorn and pol
ished manzanita. These have mountings
of gold or silver, sometimes both. Others
have handles of rough wood.
But whatever the handles may be the
Saratoga parasol is a marvel of lightness
and beauty. Those with the deep, float
ing rufles of chiffon appeal most to my
sense of fitness, for this lovely place
somehow seems to be made for just such
things. Nothing short of thistledown is
light enough.
Another dress evolved from lace and
null. imagined during a midsummer
nights dream and wrought by fairy fin
gers, has made people hold their breath
with admiration. Just picture to your
self a dress with a demitrain made en-
tirely Of rows of fine white lace inser-
ton, and equal widths of white silk mus
lin, and six rows Of lace ruffies at the
potion. lneSe are set IN IeStO0nS Dy De-
ing cunningly Tapped.
The back has the ruf1es the full width
of the lace, while toward the front they
Zap over each other so closely that the
row is not half so deep as in the back.
That makes the front part Of the dress to
take the form of a tablier tunic. The
alternate rows of insertion and null reach
the belt, ard the waist is made in the
same way as far as the bust. From
there up in form Of a guimpe the silk
null alone extends. with Eve closely lap
ping rows Of the lace as a bertha.
The sleeves reach to the elbow only,
but the collar goes as high as it is posi-
BILE to get it. 1t is draped Of the null
and has a very narrow lace rnfle. The
nress is lined with ivory taneta, ana the
snug belt is of heavy ivory silk betting.
And let me say right here, while I
think Of it, the old fashioned massive
jewelry is in vogue again. ! have seen
no end Of bracelets strong enough to
cable a steamboat, and heavy linked
necklaces with medallion lockets, or
canoes with diamond setting These
are for afternoons, to wear with the light
gowns, coral and quaint cornelian brace
lets are also seen, and In fact all the old
fashioned shapes and styles are copied
One very quaint zecklace had . ROW Of