Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-10-14
FOR COLD WEATHER
Heavy Wraps That Will Be in Style
This Winter.
COATS MADE In THREE LENGTHS
The Choice of This Garment Calls
for Great Care.
MADE In THREE LENGTHS
CAPES FOR EVENING WEAR


A "plaidie to the angry ART may do
very well in IA Scotch mist. One does not
often read of deaths by exposure to that
"cauld blaist." But an American blizzard
is quite different affair. The wind that
sweeps from this harbor, the wind COM
ing across the North river, requires some
thing more close and snug than "plaidie,"
no matter how tenderly or by whom put in
place. So we have some very thick coats
which are ornamented with fur lapels and
collars.
But in climate as full of caprice as the
American girl is supposed to be by her
countrymen who go to London to write her
up properly, there are, of course, days and
days of warm rain or soft mist. And on
these days heavy coats are insupportable,
so we have the graceful capes and lighter
jackets, which more conspicuous at
about Christmas time.
Indeed in wraps it bids fair to be a di
versifed winter. What one wears shopping
will not be suitable for receptions and calls.
Theater nights require very different sort
of enveloping garment and opera nights
call for something quite regal in the way
of wraps. This sounds rather hard on the
average woman, but knowing, as she sure
ly does, that two and two make four, and
that moderate income will not stretch
just because a multiplicity of outdoor gar
mentS is demanded by that tyrant, RASH
ion, she Will, as usual, cut according to her
CLOTH first examining carefully what is worn
in the various shapes and styles, and then
making up her mind what will best cover
the ground in styles and shapes of outdoor
garments.
In Different Lengths.
Two coverings one must have unless lead
ing the life of a hermit One, of course,
must be coat, and on it the most money
Al ~
one of it's kind. There are three styles of
coat this winter, the short, the three-quar-
ter length and the long coat sweeping near
ly, If not quite, to the heels. For those
who are contemplating the acquisition of
but one jacket, the third garment-the very
long coat-presents no points of interest. A
very long coat is conspicuous, 1t is only for
certain occasions, and it cannot be worn
everywhere and anywhere. 1t is in the ma
ture of a luxury, an attribute of the wo-
man who drives her own horses, propels
her own automobile or has leisure and OPP
portunity for the vast number of delight
full outdoor occasions which come to the
daughters of the silver spoon.
And if one is going to have one handsome
coat it should depend entirely on ones
height and figure whether the coat be very
short or three-quarter length. A woman
who is five feet five or six inches and of a
reasonable plumpness will do well to adopt
a coat of the three-quarter length. She
may have it fitted snugly, or she may dar-
ingly adopt the loose back. But in either
case she will find all models longer in the
back than in front, and if she will look up
scme of the old pictures she will be struck
by the resemblance her coat bears to some
dolman-like affairs which must have graced
the sloping shoulders of her great grand
mother
Loose Coats in Favor.
If, however, the earnest seeker after
coat for the winter of 1S99-1900 does not
possess the requisite inches to carry off
successfully a coat which comes nearly to
her knees, she will find endless and natty
models among the short coats. 1t would
be idle to try to blind ones eyes to the
great effort being made to introduce the
seamless back-or the back which is unfit
ted save for the curving seam. And this
year there is little doubt that the loose
coat will succeed We have been somewhat
Injured to its appearance by the long auto
mobile cloakS of last winter, and now that
the short, natty coats appear in this shape
they may congratulate themselves on
tardily won success. For youthful figures
there is nothing in the new models which
approaches in nattiness and smartness
these loose coats without darts. Most of
them are in the tan and mode shades, yet
they may be met with in blues, blacks and
browns, and bid fair to be one of the most
successful knockabout garments of the
winter.
The short coats in broadcloth, melton,
beaver and so on come just to the outward
spring of the hip, and are often slashed
beth back and front to give the bottom the
effect of several large squares Those
which do not effect the mannish yet capti-
waiting looseness described above fit snugly
in the back and sometimes carefully
and snugly fitted in front the bodice of
a waist. But generally they have but one
bias. The favorite lining is black satin,
although those made to order often display
the hues of the rainbow when turned inside
out.
Velvet and Fur Collars.
Collars of stitched velvet are most popu-
lar, with rather wide revers of the sane.
BY the way, do not forget stitched velvet is
one of the most popular of trimmings for
everything. Stitched velvet on a hat in
bows, rosettes or ear or cabbage shaped
loops, lined with satin of a contrasting
shade, is very desirable, while stitched vel
vet revers. collars and belts are considered
formal enough trimming for the handsom-
est of gowns.
Revers of fur on handsome coats are al
ways in order. But if one is buying coat
ready made or is having one made II is
better to furnish the fur. In the former
instance it is better to put all ones money
. e q