davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1899-02-04
Useful Ivy Leaves,

From the London Mail
A woman of wonderful resources has dis
covered very sure way of renovating and
restoring to their former appearance sDot-
ted, soiled or faded cloth or serge gowns.
Pick about twenty ivy leaves. young
green ones by choice, wash them carefully
and place them in Jug or basin. Add
about one pint of boiling water cover IN
the basin or jug, and leave all to soak for
two or three hours, when the cleanser will
be ready for use.
Meanwhile the garment must be thor
oughiy brushed inside and out and all un-
udy braid or lining removed from the bot
tom. When ready spread ii on the table
ana carefully sponge it with the ivy water
IL must then be wrung out dray, when il
will be found to have recovered its former
color, and 10 look quite like new
Black silk may be cleaned in the same
manner but 1t needs more care. II the silk
is In breadths 1t must be lightly sponged
and then tightly rolled over a cloth wound
round roller and left TO dry
Black lace may also be renovated when
soiled or brown with age by spougfng il
with ivy water and then rolling il over a
cloth wound round a roller. 1t should not
be ironed-
Evening star., 1899-02-04
Novelty in Chains,


A gold chain of a new and most inpeni-
Gus design was seen the other night at the
opera. All girls know what a nuisance it
is not to be able to get the neck of an
evening gown to fit closely around the
shoulders, and how often il happens that
the drawing string will break and make
one feel most uncomfortable. The gold
chain in gu .stion was of very fine gold.
chased, and ii was fastened at the shol,l-
der seam by small turquoise put through
a small hole In the chemisette which be
gan there and met IN the center of the
bodice At the top of this chemisette made
of the finest kind of muslin sheer and deli
cate, was a narrow beading and in and
out of this beading the gold chain was
passed. 1t was fastened in front with a
lovely jeweled clasp of turquoises and dia-
monds, which pushed up as on an eyeglass
chain, and the chain then hung down to
the waist1ine; at the end of il was a drop
of turquoises and diamonds to match the
clasp. The wearer of this charming inven-
ton said it never slipped or loosened. and
was the comfort Of her ufe"
Evening star., 1899-02-04

ta.umsuts. revives the Old English custom
OF taking valentines by lot. The name of
ru- guests are written on cards decorated
with roses and cupids, and the women draw
for escorts TO table.
The same idea adapted for a children 5
dance calls for the drawing Of partners.
The fIvcrs provided are tiny fans PAINTED
with loves and doves, or they are roSebuus
tied with true lovers knots. miniature
bows quivers Of arrows ana similar tritles.
There is projected for a group of favored
youngsters 4 fancy dress party with lot
teries Of this sort and costumes more or
less after the manner Of the last century.
Spring Fashions.
In rnidwinter displays Of summer goods
there Is all the optimism of the old st.
Valentine legend that birds mate on Feb
ruary IA.
We do not wait for springtime to come
gentle Annie. 10 learn that tissues light as
air. the gauziest stufs ever woven have
been picked by our appareling. The new
orsandies are most daintily fower-sprayed,
The batistes are sheer as cobwebs, the
dclaiues as soft as cloud draperies and the
cEdlirs. in plain tints of pink and blue.
yellow and mauve. are festoOned with lace
to give effects of fairy-Nke deGcacy.
We shall have white season.
Among the prettiest of the early impor-
tatinus are robe dresses IN lawns and
batistes. scant of skirt, a fUoth of lace ana
ruffies, like and yet most unlike the dress
81 the ulaidens described in Sir George Ire
Evening star., 1899-02-04

pers found in many localities Few of these
stones are costly, but many are beautiful.
As 10 charms, we are wiser than our fore
mothers. who never knew our comfortable
sense Of immunity from danger as we hang
from neck chain or bangle = fresh assorj-
ment of pigs. enamel beans. four-leaved
clovers or litrle red lady bugs set with
birth stones. The jeweler enjoys the ex
treme good luck that follows the wearing
of these things.
Notable Gowns.
The handsomes, dress worn recently at
dinner was Mrs. o. II. p Belmont's prin-
cess arrang ement of pale yellow velvet. A
tunic Cf exquisite white lace draped the
back from the hips, leaving only a narrow
panel in front uncovered. Bands of sable
outlined the tunic and passed over the
shoulders of the loW-cut corsags. Diamond
buckles, lace jabots and fanciful bodice
drapinss of lace completed the decorations
Mrs. Belmont wore her hair high and
dressed with feathers.
A beautiful toilet also was Mrs. Suffern
Tailer's. of helotrOpe silk, draped to form
the semblance of a deep-pointed tunic in
front. with an edging Of sable, and Louis
XVI design in baby ribbon and silver. The
back of the skirt was oFnamented with
med the low corsage
Mrs. Prescott Lawrence's white broad
cloth dress was embroidered with silver
and fur trimmed
A striking opera toilet recently worn was
Evening star., 1899-02-04
SCREENS.
Their Use is Growing in Favor
livery Day.
From Harpers Bazlr.

Fsom Harper's Bazur.
The use of screens not only for the pur-
pose Of keeping off draushts and hiding OBJ
jecJionaole features in room. hut as a
means Of ornamenting q room. is growing
in favor every day. The old-fashioned fire
screen which used to stand In front of the
fire IS now rarely seen. but in its place are
some most attractive little two-paneIed
screens. which stand one on either side of
the FIRE and come round just little way
in front. These are made with the lower
part Of rich brocade or tapestry and the
upper part with heavy panel Of beve1ed
glass bound with band of velvet or plush.
They are quite new and have not yet been
shown in many Of the shops. Indeed. the
most that have been seen are in private
houses.
There is no rule as to what a screen
should be covered with. There are after
uoou-tca screens. Of which the lower part
j. of latttcework stained black or made of
ebony. The upper part a panel OF embroid-
cry and between the embroidery and
the latucewOrk there is shelf wide
enough 10 hold tea cups and saucers
Then there - the high three or four panel
81 screen made Of rich bTocade or tapestry
bound with velvet and studded with gilt
nails For the dining room are the screens
Of leatherwoTE. each panel a work of art
In itself with the different colorings thrown
out into fun relief by the plain hand of
some bright color. Among the newest
screens are those with the panels of tapes-
try in the Gobelin work. or panels of the
old Berlin woodwork, which industry, by the
way, Is coming into fashion again These
panels are all finished with a broad hand
or plush or velvet. with gilt nails and are
IN various sizes In some OF the empire
drawing rooms the screens are Of satin en-
broidered In most exquisite designs in tiny
flowers and ribbon bows: while in some
especially handsome ones there is the en-
pire wreath done in gold thread These
screens enhance the look of c1r1fo owl
add touch OF luxury TO the drawing room.
dining room Is incomplete In It's fur
ntshings without a screen, ostensibly TO
hide the door leading into the pantry, but
Evening star., 1899-02-04

in reality adding to the furnishing of the
room. When such screens are not in Ieath-
er they are made up in plain colors with
gilt figures. and there are also some very
Inexpensive ones made of denim, in bright
colors, with figures in heraldic designs. For
bedrooms hOWered cretonnes, chintzes and
India silks are most often seen. but the bed
room screens are much smaller and very
much lighter and generally have a carved
frame, while the material is put on full,
as though gathered on tape or rod.
Evening star., 1899-02-04

NEW YORK. February 3. 1899.
Having enjoyed a real, oid-fashioned rag
carpet bee and a real. oId-fashioned husk-
ing with real red ears and real kisses, we
want nothing but a real. Old-time valen-
tine party to complete our happiness.
We may get 1t.
Last year Elias ''arch-famen of Hymen,
immortal go-between." long time neglect
cd, was restored to somewhat of favor.
One Of the biggest of the womens clubs.
choosing the anniversary of the bishop as
the date of its annual dinner, treated its
guests to large. red hearts and the reading
of valentines addressed by member to
member
Truly. here was an answer TO lie Gal
lienne's doubt if St. Valentine be not twice
dead: true love-among club women, ex-
cept at electiOn-is ever young.
A pretty idea for St Valentine dinner
evolved by woman famous for her enter
Evening star., 1899-02-04
Not Really Cheap.

Low-priced baking powders not really cheap.
They are the most expensive in the end. A larger
quantity is required to do the work. Besides that,
they are unwholesome, as they are made of alum
Cleveands baking powder is made of pure
of tartar, product of the grape, and perfectly
healthful.
1t is true economy to buy Clevelands 1t does
work and better work. and is wholesome
Evening star., 1899-02-04

DO you believe in the power of the hu-
man eye with a wild beast?" asked Cab
leigh.
Yes" said the professor, 1.-The power of
the eye is very useful-to see the wild beast
comng."-Tit Bits
Evening star., 1899-02-04

The sleeves of velvet were elbow sleeves
finished with black face. They were quite
tight and had very little fuiiness at the top
Their industrious maker and owner might
well be proud of the correctness of her de-
sign. They were the fac simile of a pair of
very tight elbow sleeves which adorned a
broad-tail jacket Of unqGestloned smart
ness and price which was worn at the last
Monday morning musicale at the Waldorf
Astoria Such narrow sleeves of a gown
worn at home in the afternoon were beara-
BILE enough, but the narrow sleeves of the
Evening star., 1899-02-04
Collars with Net Guimpe.

Dog collars. as collars worn with low
necked gowns are generally known, take
away from the formality of an evening
gown to a great extent. One can always
take a collar of this sort made elaborately
of velvet or ribbon and shirr a guimpe of
transparent stuff to II. And even elbow
sleeves are easily managed with a pattern
This process was mentioned In these letters
when guimpes and transparent sleeves
first became a welcome and economical
manner of making one gown do the work Of
two. This year. however the sleeves in
stead of being long are usually elbow
length MABEL BOYD.
Evening star., 1899-02-04
Pretty as n New One.

Another gown which was effective and
becoming and interesting to the eternal
seeker after successfully remodeled gowns
was worn by the hostess at an afternoon
tea. Her gown. too, was black, and she
also had a black silk skirt trimmed with
velvet. But her skirt was not of recently
Evening star., 1899-02-04

The most perfect whispering gallery In
the world is the dome of st. Paurs in Lon
don.
Evening star., 1899-02-04
Stylish and Useful.

sss
A most effective black dinner gown ap-
peared at a small dinner last week. The
skirt and low-necked bodice were Of black
taffeta. The skirt was, as usual, very mar
row across the hips very fun and long
about the feet and trimmed with three mar
row rows of velvet ribbon fuled on near
the bottom. The waist was simply round
waist made decollete with a belt of black
velvet ribbon which ended IN bow on the
side. The sleeves and yoke guimpe
were of Brussels jet. The high collar was
of turquoise blue velvet with exquisite
gray sheen to it, which took away the hard
look which turquoise blue so often has.
AT best, it is trying color. and should be
confined most exclusively to women with
eyes of turquoise blue or to those rare
beings blessed with rose leaf compilations.
and this beauty this particular woman has.
Across the bust from shoulder to shoulder.
was draDed a great soft fold of the tur-
quoise velvet, which gave fuilness as well
as color to the corSage. For it must be
borne in mind that the guimDes of this
winter. which are cut so very low, are par
tcuarly.uying to slight people The wear
er of this gown is very tall and slender and
coniided TO Us in the chatty half hour in the
drawing room while the men were still dis
cussing their cigars that she had been
obliged to use all the viii power she pos
sessed to get that velvet put across the
front of her gown as she had it, strong
willed drcssmaker insisting that the gown
should have only q huge bow OF velvet on
the left shoulder, according to the present
universal fancy. Our fair and frank. but
most modest friend, also explained to
that the Brussels net guimpe was double,
otherwise the painful thinness of her shoul-
ders would have been too seif-evldent for
even remote a semblance of low
necked gown.
Whether she was exaggerating the thin
ness of her shoulders we did not know,
But if she was really thin she said
the double yoke of Brussels net concealed
the fact so successfully that every woman
who mourns over salt cellars" promi
nent shoulder blades. is advised to take at
once TO guimpes OF two thicknesses of Brus-
sels net if she wishes to pose artistically
plump with just faint shadows to show
Evening star., 1899-02-04

popular taffeta~ It was some good heavy
silks which she had had put away for years
and which she had resurrected, ripped
cleaned and freshened and then made into
a double skirt. For originally it had been
most vouminoIs. and by making a double
skirt ortunic effect the underskirt could be
pieced down to the regulation length. The
tunic or upper skirt was edged with three
rows of narrow black velvet ribbon. So
far there was similarity between the two
gowns, although one had been made by an
expensive modiste and the other fashioned
at home. The bodice of the homemade
gown was of black velvet. 1t was cut square
back and front and this square neck was
filled in by the daintiest little guimpe of
sheer white lawn. tucked in clusters of
three, then space, then a cluster of tucks
Evening star., 1899-02-04

IS the worst Of the seasons cnormities
The dress to be painted is cut and finished
before 1t is seen by the artist who then
considers her design according TO the figure
and colOrlng of the Wearer. The least
distressing patterns use small flowers ONLY.
which do not obtrude the fact that They. are
not woven.
Old Lamps for New.
The influence of the Revolutionary Daugh-
ters, Colonial DANES, New England socie-
ties and the like appears in the revival of
the Gld-fashioued cross-stitch embroidery in
which Were worked the samplers of our fore
mothers. Commenced patterns abound in
the shops, colors less crude than old. but
designs closely following their exemplars.
The collection of whale oil lamps has ne
come lad with women devoted to an
tlqueS. The finest are of old silver and
pewter; but slass-yellow pink and white
is the material of the greater number As
htted for service on lunch or tea table, the
lamps are supplied with olive oil and two
loosely twisted cord wicks are inserted.
Cotored shades, like those for fairy lamps.
are employed, without chmneys. The soft,
mellow light is far from unpleasant MANY
OF the lamps are small and as convenient
for ornamental use as candles.
At lunch of 'ecent date topaz yellow
lamps, shaded with rose pink supplied
light. The middle of the table was heaped
with pink and yellow roses, tied in separate
knots to make 1t easy for each guest TO
carry away her portion.
Evening star., 1899-02-04

The high collar of tucked white muslin had
tiny cars of lace at the nape of the neck.
EIhnxY SIeeNcS Very TiEht.
Evening star., 1899-02-04

broad-tail jacket Were a puzzle. Reaching
only to the elbow, where they Were met by
long black gloves, the curiosity to
whether one could possibly wear anything
so tight over anything but a sleeveless
evening gown was almost enough to dis
tract ones attention from the glorious
Evening star., 1899-02-04
Are Features of the Finest Dresses
This Winter.
THE DOUBLE USE OF DINNER GOWNS
Useful Hints in Making Over Old
Black Silks.
ELBOW SLEEVES AND GUIMPE
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.

Special Correspondence OF Inc f.venlnS star.
NEW YORK, February ., 1899.
When Brussels net gowns, elaborately
trimmed with sequips, first became the
mode a year ago, many of the best modistes
seized eagerly upon the fashion, thinking it
would be most popular among American
women. A number of black Brussels net
model gowns, more or less elaborately
trim med with glittering sequins, were
brought over, with the expectation that
they would be most popular But the tickle
feminine public were shy of the spangles.
Although many elaborate and beautiful
gowns in which sequins figured were made
and worn, yet the greater number of the
black net gowns were sold at either a very
small profit or an actual loss to their i'm
porters.
Slowly, but surely, however. the eyes of
women were opened to the beauties of
these go1ls. BY the time the horse show
opened last November paillettes were a fea-
ture of half the elaborate gowns made.
Brussels net has been put to many uses
that it, too feels the era of prosperity, and
| I eeds not an accompaniment of sequins to
enhance its popularity.
BY far the most popular way in which
Brussels net is at present employed is
high-necked guirnpe for low-necked gown.
Its transparency is most becoming, and It's
durability compared to either chiffon or
mousSeline de sole is the second point in
its favor These transparent yokes or
guimpeS, like the gowns loaded with Sc
quins made their initial appearance quite
a year ago, but, like the latter, they had to
be known to be appreciated. 1t has taken
over season for their economy, as well "a
tEni.s haa fn no a a tod
Evening star., 1899-02-04
A Want Well Filled.

A low-necked gown, or a gown which SIM
ulates or e. will always appear more suit
able to a festive occasion than one which
makes no pretense to even a decollete eff
feet: hence gown with a transparent yoke
will fill gracefully long-felt want. For
informal dinners, for card parties. even Cor
afternoon teas. when one is receiving. or
" hen one is going from the tea to a dinner,
these gowns are invaluable.
Their economy is obvious To one-or.
rather, to the many-to whom a number Of
evening gowns each season would be rank
extra vagance, a gown which can be used
both in the afternoon and evening is a
great boom When this combination toilet
first appeared last winter the guimpe and
sleeves, which We're then used much with
dinner gowns, were of chiffon. Chiffon
sleeves shirred and fitting the arm closely,
are beautiful to behold. but they cannot be
depended upon to last Il whole season,
while BRUSSELS net can.
Evening star., 1899-02-04

Here is wrinkle, says a late English
your lace that delightfully."- dingy yet clean
color which you see in the shops. Make
some very weak tea and add a few drops
of India ink the besO to the tea. Dip in
your lace.
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1899-1903, 1899-10-24
Columbia Wins.

New York, Oct. 20.-(By Associated
Press. )-ln 4 strong breeze today the
Columbia beat the Shamrock for the
third time and the Americas cup re-
mains in the United States. 1t was
such a breeze as Sir Thomas Upton
has been praying for, eighteen 10
twenty knots an hour.
The race to the outer mark was a
battle royal. The Shamrock made good
use of her one minute advantage at
the start, and was many boat lengths
ahead before the defender got over the
line. But the latter slowly, but sure
ly, moved upon the challenger. When
the outer mark was well in sight the
boats were racing bow and bow, with
the American in the better position
Three times she tried to pass the
Shamrock, without success. Then
gradually she dug her nose in front
and when they rounded the mark the
Columbia had lead OF about seven
seconds. In the beat to the finish
mark the Columbia again showed her
superiority in windward work. She
pointed higher, footed faster and car.
ried herself better than the challenger
She steadily increased her lead all day
and crossed the finish line at 2:47
followed by the Shamrock at 2:45: II
official time. The Columbia beats the
Shamrock six minutes and eighteen
seconds actual, and six minutes anG
thirty-four seconds corrected, time. .
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1899-1903, 1899-10-24
MILLIONS Given Away.

1t is certainly gratifying to the pub
lie to know of one concern in the land
who are not afraid to be generous to
the needy and suffering. The propri-
etors of DR.. Kings New Discovery for
Consumption, Coughs and Colds have
given away over ten million trial bot
Ties of this great medicine; and have
the satisfaction of knowing it has alb
solutely cured thousands of hopeless
cases. Asthma. Bronchitis. Hoarse-
ness and all diseases of the Throat,
Chest and Lungs are surely cured by
it. Call on Clark & Mollison, drug
gists, and get a free trial bottle. Reg.
ular size SOC and 81. Every bottle
guaranteed, or price refunded.
Ottumwa semi-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1899-1903, 1899-10-24
A NOTABLE DEATH.
j. w. Trotter, n Prominent Citizen of
Sigourney, Dies in South Dakota,

Sigourney, Oct. O.-(Special) "A
telegram was received yesterday morn-
ing from ST. Anthony, South Dakota,
announcing the death of j. w. Trottcr,
one of Sigourney's most prominent cit
liens. John Trotter come to Iowa at
an early day and for many years lived
on farm north of Sigourney, where
he had accumulated a great deal of
wealth. A few years ago he sold a por-
ton of his farm and moved to Sig
Quincy where he has since resided. He
was kind, large hearted and jovial and
had hosts of friends. The remains will
be brought to Sigourney for interment
The bereaved family has the sympathy
of the entire community.