The record-union., 1899-08-27

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Black satin. which. even during the
sultry season, has enjoyed no neon
siderable amount of patronage, VIII De
still more popular as cool weather ap-
proaches Satin foulard and satin surah
of first quality are preferred by many
well-dressed women to satin duchesse,
satin royal, and other heavy weaves OF
satin or silk.
One of the modes which promises to
be increasingly favored among fall fan
cies is the princesse dress of old-time
outlines. Fashion moves ever in cir
Gle and returns to previous points OF
departure at erratic intervals. The
prineesse idea has been transformed
and embellished until often it is scarce
. ly recognizable. With women of ele-
giant figure, however. it will be seen in
faultless simplicity and made of rich
and beautiful fabrics, needing but the
slightest additional enhancing in the
matter of decoration. Very frequently
the princesse effect on coming styles
viii be simulated, while the bodice and
skirt, separately fashioned and finished,
will unite beneath a quaint girdle, a
soft drapery sash with netted fringe
ends, or a trinity fitted folded belt.
One of the most graceful autumn
models for rather full figure, to use
in making up crepe de Chine, Henrietta
cloth, drap royal, or other fine silk and
wool fabric, is the new -gored
model, with a graceful moderate train,
to be made up separately over foun-
datiOn skirt of exactly the same shape.
Both skirts are fitted very snugly over
the hips. without darts. At the back
the underskirt is gathered, but the out
side is laid in clustered plaits, under
folded at the belt, but expanding great
ly toward the lower edge, which mea-
sures three and three-fourths yards at
its greatest circumference.
The graceful summer dust-cloaks are
so smart in appearance and SO becom-
ming as we'll as so convenient, that
they are made to do duty on many more
occasions than they We're originally de-
signed for. One model of soft gray
liberty foulard is in the shape of the
chatelaine robe of the pilgrims garb
of other days, having straight fronts
and loose, open sleeves turned back,
with a deep facing of gray satin dotted
with brown silk, with bows and ends
of wide brown satin ribbon at the
throat and waist, and a cape-collar
matching the revers on the hanging
sleeves. Another style is of gray
green summer satin, soft and flexible
This is lavishly decorated with black
lace. A third wrap is of fawn-colored
mohair, with rows of brown silk ribbon
by way of trimming. The effect is
very neat, the ribbon being ornamental
without as in the case of many other
garnitures, detracting from the useful
ness of the wrap. For use in the near
future, black silk lined with color will
compose many of the models. 1t forms
a more serViceable garment than those
in light shades, and is equity dressy.
1t should fit very snugly at the waist
I'm the back, in polonaise style, the
shoulder-cape or collarette ending in
fichu form, allowing by it's arrangement
pretty glimpses of the lining to give a
tone to and tighten the sombre char
acter of the wrap.
Many of the styles of trimming used
on summer skirts and bodices are not
at all admirable. The great amount of
time and work expended upon endless
flimsy rows of plated or gathered and
lace edged frills and ruches seems
wholly out of proportion to the result
produced. Dresses of this description
are universally the mode. They are
however, very expensive, the yards of
chiffon, silk null, tulle and other dia-
phanous textiles used not being cal
culated to withstand even ordinary
wear and tear. More economical and
quite as pretty, even for dressy uses,
are the gowns of India muslin, French
organdie. dimity, batiste, etc, finished
simply with tucks and alternating rows
of insertion. Even the inexpensive
dotted Swiss muslin gowns of the sum-
mer, made with flounces of the same
goods. edged with very narrow lace,
have been deemed suitable wear for all
but very formal dress occasions.
Black faille Francaise, Liberty foul
ard, satin bengaline taffeta and other
lustrous or lustreless silks, will be
greatly in vogue for church, visiting
and for similar uses this fall Many
will be made wholly of satin finished
repped silk, while others will show a
combination of striped or dotted satin,
and expensive models will have deco
rations of superb passementeries in
special designs. much like the lace ap-
plique effects of the summer. Cape col
lar, bretelle, revers, girdle and the
graceful sleeve pieces will be used in
devices that We're never before seen. A
very elegant model brought to America
this week is made of lustrous black
faille-the silk as heavy as satin duch-
ess, but as flexible and soft as foulard.
The gown is decorated with delicate but
very beautiful cut Jet and silk cord or
naments. with additional trimmings of
black Venetian lace on the bodice and
2. elbow sleeves. Tt is in princesse fash
ion, with a very pretty flaring collar
of odd shape, covered with passemen-
terie and edged with a tulle ruehe. One
of the handsome corded silks to be
used is the Victoria. 1t is as delicate
and pliable as satin surah, but nearly
as heavy as Irish poplin. Handsomely
trimmed or combined with brocaded
faille or satin matelasse, it will make
an ideal dowager toilet, and will look