The Jersey City news. (Jersey City [N.J.]) 1889-1906, 1899-05-03
aaaaammamm
WOMAN'S WORLD.


many novelties in the cut Of skirts, al
though they are all of the clinging kiE
and all without fuilness in the waist.
In the t~ailor-mades there are skirts cut
off a single piece of wide cloth, the ma
terial passing around the figure, that is,
with the selvedge edges placed at the
top n front respectively. Some are
closed all the way down the bias back
seam with buttons. Others had the over
tapping edges faced and stitched and
sewed down. In other skirts this over
tapping edge was directly in front, the
back having no seam. Still others had
a single bias seam down the back and
not even a plat inlaid at the centre to
disguise this. The closing was in front
where it Tapped as described above.
The very latest imported models are
closed at the front and sides. though
they flow out in the back. In the tailor
mades, with overskirt, the latter cut
quite close, restrain the Towing skirt
and give this same narrow effect.
None of the new skirts have any stiff
enlng at the hem. All entirely novel
cut is that of the skirt of a brown tailor
made. A deep yoke of brown silk in
vertical tucks is applied to the silk four
dation. The overskirt of the cloth, hav-
ing stitched edges, is then, as It seeIils.
thrown around the figure and held By
three buttons, falling apart slightly to
show a killing of the brown silk. There
is a yoke of the silk and a bolero of
the cloth, trimmed with tucked bias
bands. Killed ieunces in muslin, gren-
adines, cashmeres and other fine ma
t~erials, are seen on many own They
are sewed to the foundation skirt anu
the top hidden by the oyerskirt; which
may be simply hemmed. or have rows
of stitching or corded or edged with
lace.
There are many cashmere gowns, as
cashmere is an ideal stuff for making
these clinging skirts. Crepe de chine
shares with cashmere the advantage of
beiag pre-eminent.y suitable to the styles
of the hour and .is~a great favorite also.
One beautiful model in this latter ma
terial has u s@ataed bodice ami Iarrox
overskirt over q bounce of tulle heavily
embroidered with spangies. The transoar-
emit sleeves and yoke are OF black chant
lilly Lace, with a s.age bunch of pink pop
pies in the corner of the corsage.
Not only. are bodices still trimmed oy
lace insertion, but the bottoms CT skirts
have gathered honnces or nat borders
of it. Any plain waist and skirt of colored
silk can be matched in muslin ond util-
lied 10 great advantage. Here are desorip-
tons of some of the pretty frocks shown
me at a private d~resstuaker's this week.
A reception dress was in cream guipurc,
with a wild iounce of the same lace at
the bottom of the skirt. covered 1T the
back ana in front with an oyerdress of
pale blue open-worked cloth, leaving the
$ des Of the lace robe visible. This over
dress was made an priGcesse, the bodice
cut iow, lllst IN with lace, and the long
sleeves transparent finished 1T the Sides
witt, a large bow of black tu.le fastened
with tar7se.ss OF very original
design.
A second dress was a lovely affair i'll
embroidered Indian muslin with a shap-
ed fiounee of Clnny around the trailing
skirt over mauya liberty satin. The bod
ice fitted to perfection upon the should
ers and arms without the slightest full
ness-a style that Only a well-shaped
woman can ALLOW herself 70 adopt. how
ever.
A third was a pink mousseline de sole
painted with large dark-toned oopDies,
but the beauty of his toilette consisted
in a lace sleeveless mantle in point
d'Ang1eterre, cut in the form of a long
sack jacket, shaped beneath the arms,
withea wide fiounce at the bottom. At
the throat and down the front of this
mantle, on either side, was a full ruch-
ing of mousseiine de sole. edged with a
narrow black velvet ribbon; mousseline
de sole also formed the lining to the point
d'Angleterre-
Some very effective ideas in light tex
tiles for theatre and general evening wear !
nave just reached me in the sample. They |
are not, however, yet shown in Paris,
says the DR. Goods Economist
The foundation material is gaze de sole,
or gaze de Chambery; their color black or
white. On his ground is stamped but not
in relief, a scattering of daisies and roses
in vague tints of white and pink. These
seem to form part with the grounding,
and barely visible, yet enhancing greatly
the effect. Then strewn over the whole is
a rather heavy silk-embossed figure of
very large black dots and bright red roses
of several shades. The black dots them
selves are partially hidden beneath a
foliage design in ~pale-whitish green, pro-
ducing an almost metallic effect, brought
out here and there by a bright orange
centre.
Another shows a sort of fesfoen running
in garlapds across the black ground. The
festoon is embossed in black, mingled
with acknowledgment of many shades
comes a festoon of bright mauges
and ~pale-bluish greens. Between these fes-
toons daisies of all these shades combined
are strewn dashed with black. This sam
pie has also large p~ale-green leaves and
mauve flowers u~nembossed and scattered
over the ground.
1t is difficult to conceive, and still more
difficult to describe, the rich and artistic
effect they produce. The same idea IS car
ried out in white without any tinge of
color.
The prices of these textiles are very
high and they will hardly be able to retail
under francs per metre. Gauze viii be
one of the most favored materials fer
light summer w~ear-evening wear, bien
entesSdu-
Another idea is two stamps on-a Ii
ground, velvet spots or lozenges, and no.
~infrequently a figure, floral or geometri-
cal, is carried out in this manner.
Some black gauzes with oblong lozenges