The times., 1899-12-24

LISBON, Portugal, Dec. 9.-The traveller
whose first impression Of the Portuguese
capital is gained from view OF It's suag-
Cling. shabby back doors-comiag down
through the country by rail, as we did
makes a tremendous mistake. which moth
ing can rectify but a special trip to the
ocean and return by the river route. Ap-
preached In the orthodox way from the
Atlantic, nine miles up the Tagus, Lees-b O.
al. IS known TO its citizens, ranks third
in beauty OF situation among all the cities
q Europe-Naples first and Constantnople
second. The high rocky banks Of the
deep, but narrow channel are lined on
10th sides with antiquated forts and light
houses from san Brugo and San Julian,
a. opposite ends OF the bar across the riy-
ers mouth, TO the mighty tower Of Belem
nine miles above which, since the If
teeuth century, has stood guard over the
royal city. On either hand are gay. resorts
and bathing places-Cacares Ociras. Aban-
Rda-the COney Island, Atlantic City, and
Old Point Comfort o. Portugal; royal pal
aces and villas OF the nobility, surrounded
By trees and gardens; fishermen's hamlets
and fashionable suburbs, and beyond all
the cloud-capped granite range OF the Gin
Ira Mountains.
On the north bank, nine miles above the
ocean, and just where the river broadens
into q magnificent lake. the old city-Whose
earliest name was UlysslppC, said TO have
been founded by Ulysses Of the Golden
Fleece-the Felicitas Julia Of the ancient
homens-the Oshbuna Of the Moslems-
the Lisbon OF today-Tambles over more
hills than Rome sat upon, rising abruptly
from the waters edge ia the form OF an
amphitheatre. Faced by quays and backed
by lofty mountains, il stretches along a
stream four or FIVE miles and straggIes
backward or rather upward an equal dis
tance, scattered among fields and gardens
IL the rear The lake. or bay, or estuary.
as you may choose TO call the broadening
of the river. is crowded with the ships OF
al nations among multitude Of native
craft for Portugal with q population ap-
proximating 100000 has still no mean
commerce, though in the evening Of her
days.
Churches, Converts. and Castles
Bow shall one describe the bewiIdering
variety Of churches and converts and cas-
tles-5oorish, Castilian, Italian, Roman,
Flemish, and mongreI styles Of architecture
the brilliant hues Of house walls reds.
blues. greens. puppies. and ye.lovE. a riot
feet harmony with the spirit Of the place
There is the great castle Of Sac Jorge On
Its rocky height in the oldest part of the
old, old city. which sJiu retains its early
Moorish name of Alfama. There is thl
immense, Inauy-tOwered royal abode
Ajuda on another hilltop beyond Belem.
intended for the most splendid palace in
Europe. but unfinished for lack Of money,
though begun generations ago.
q q
PRECIOUS mouarchs Is the NeCcssldades. an
imposing structure DO which the meetings
O. the CorteZ are held. And then the null
titude OF churches-the great grey cathe-
Cra5. on the green slope Of Castle Hiil
The Church Of Martyrs. erected on the Epo,
where Alfonso ] mounted the city walls
r and rescued IL from the MooTsi the antique
Church do C0racso do Jesus, on the "Hill
OF the star the handsome churches OF
Santa EngraCia and san Rogue; scores OF
massive converts and monasteries that
crown the hills. Ike medieval fortresses-
as in truth they were II times long past
and. dominating al, the great square
ripIe-battiemented sentry tower Of Belem
you are landed in front Of one OF the
largest and haEdsomest parks iu Portugal
the Praca do Commerce., which is open "a
the river on the south, and surrounded on
The other three sides by spacious arca5cs
the custom house ia the centre OF the
square stands @ fine bronze a5ue OF King
Joao and al the middle Of the north side
81 imposing tTiumphal arch marks the be-
ginning OF the eity's principal street
Nearly q century ard a half ago Gu 1883
Lisbon was benefited by an appalling
calauity-an earthquake that shook down
two-thirds cf the city ana buried sixty
thousand people beneath the ruius-a bless
iHe See terrible guise like tile great conGa-
grafton which resulted in the building Of q
new Chicago. The portion that escaped the
earthquake remains as in the dawn Of his
tory. with dark. narrow, and tortuous al
leys, whose 0verhauging caves and crum-
bliug balconies almost touch overhead. but
the reconstructed section has wide
straight. well-pared streets. lighted by gas
and lined with many STORED buildings.
buildings swarm With Inmates.
Though the population Of Lisbon is 3 lit
lie less than go eco every house seems
literally sEarming with inmates, and yoJ
marvel al the size Of Portuguese families
uutu YOU learn that each tall building /,
6lvIded into fats, for the accommodation
o. several faml' es. While the patIiarcha
system prevails, as in many parts o. Eu'
EoDe-the Sons and daughters Of successive