The Portland daily press., 1899-11-10

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all the other people their finest bow |;
and you realise that II you would
have An outing fire from care
and responsibility you must 60 back TO
the Highlands or back In the sort sun
shine Il the Emerald Islss.
We spent Sunday In Chester. that old
city where you feel ~ primitive as ths
earliest Inhabitants; and where We divid-
cd our time between an sxquisits church
service In tbs Cathedral and q waiE
around the walls. II enc has been In
formed beforehand and gets up In tiue
he will ind coach awaiting. which
will take him out to Hswarden and set
him down In front OF GIadstone's old
chapel; but on Sunday no one can visit
Eaton Hall, nor hang around the old
Gladstone mar sion. nor even see Mrs.
Gladstone, uni, o, she IL sitting In her
rew; for ON that day shs is not likely to
BE- out In fes trap as usual
We inanag ed to make the day very toi
cradle since gentleman invited Us to
excellent seats In the choir which one oan
not see except ut sorvice-tlms on Sunday.
Afterwards be walked around the walls
with % and pointed out the old land
marks From the watsr-Tower you can
look down into the canal below, the SPOT
where ships used TO be noored to the tower
in the days when tho Dee washed the
walls Of Chester. Here you can sec the
Welsh mountains and the estuary Of
tbs Dee over which river farther along
yuo pass the old br idge OF the thirteenth
century and the huge mills Of Dee which
have existed In some form for eight hun
dred years. and. nearer, the Grcsvenor
bridge crossing the river In single span,
the largest arch In Europe. After passing
over the Water Cat, ron come upon the
picturesque race-oourss, the Roodeye. no
called from cross which marks the spot
where the image Of a virgin was found,
which the sacriligous natives OF Haw-
arden had thrown into the river. Opposite
In kdgar's Cave are some old Roman
sculptures which mark the place from
which King Edgar wss rowed 10 st.
Johns church BY six subject kings. The
wall turns here, and II you do NOT notice
you stumble up the Whaling Steps which
tradition declares, that II you compass
them seven times mp and down without
msnt Of the wish uppermos, In your
mind. On the Phoenix Tower at the north
east angle OF the wall an inscription
records that Charles I. here witnessed the
defeat Of his troops ON Rowton Moor In
l646 Below tbs wall 1t this point lies
the arcaded streets centre heie. Near by
was the old Bear and Billet Inn, the
town-mansion Of tbs shrewsbury family.
There are several If the original old
housss still exciting on this street, and
several other old inns while In Esstsats
there are some yaultsd crypts In the base
ments which belons cd to some religious
houses Of the thir tssnth century.
In the afternoon We again visited the
Cathedral before services for lesson In
architecture. In the chapt.r.house there
10 one rars feature In the moulding OF the
pillars. they run up In q graceful way to
the ,ani'inE without me ~, inss sr .S 2.
1nest specimens OF wood carving In Eng
land, and here the trif0rium which In
only Indicated In the nave 10 distinct
feature.
The South Transept Is as large as the
choir and four times - large Is the North
an cid dispute between the monastis
clergy which shaped for long time the
ecclssis s'ical history Of England. The
monks sf 5t. Werburgh were anxious TO
extend their church but were unable to
build towsri the north ON account Of the
only do so BY annsxins the parish church
OF 1T Oswald Ih.rtfcre they compro-
missed with the practitioners Of the latter,
giving them o church In anothsf part OF
the town, and In the fourteenth century
puilt ths present South 1ransept. After
o century. however. the lease OF ninety
nine years having expired. the monk
had TO admit the parishioners OF Sc.
r. swald to their old place Of worship and
20 It'll 1850 the South Transept was par
sissonsSan from thu rest Of the oathe-
orAI. ousaw Ss. Thomas has been
erected - sFsn.A Church and the parti-
tion Is ta.~* sewn and the south Iran
sept is betus t~ily restored.
interest to tbs Cathedral. Il isa ssruo
ture Of the eleventh century on the sits
Of an old Saxon Church. Here the Bish-
CD Of Lichdeid set mp his throne whom he
removed his diocese to Chester. After
wards 10 ranked as . second Cathedral
aud was considered q liner sdince than
st. Werbursh itself. The most of 10 ID
now tine, vins.oovsrd old ruin, the re-
sts red nave being the only part OF the
original church In tolerable condition,
since the choir and chanoel were crushed
by the falling Of the central cover In the
fifteenth century, and after wards the west
front and the north wess tower Tell in.
The influences of this quaint old city Is
such that leaving IL was like going out
from q monastery or forsaking . hermit
are, far of from the haunts OF men and
business. Therefore carly Monday morn
Ing We alighted with regret at the Lime
street station In LiverpJ sol with day Of
business perpisxity before US.
A. II. G.