davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1899-01-28

beneath Zach ear have added an effect of
height, and a revival of little friH Of
lace at the nape of the neck has so ele-
waited the stock that between evening
gowns and decollete gowns the contrast is
as marked as can possibly be.
Chances for Personal Taste.
All the fancy stocks and collars are
fabulous prices an the shops, but that is of
little matt-I, as naarly every woman can
tie bow, and she would be helpless in
deed who could not cover ready-made
canvas collar foundation with silk. The
combination of the bow and the sik-cov-
cred collar in various ways will make
fancy stocks which viii answer upon all oc-
casions. A white satin stock mada in his
way for an addition to a tn h-ater WAIST
which needed little color was cut up in
the high points under each ear described
above. Then the top of the collar was
edged with dark brown fur-just a tiny
edg4-and very becoming stock was the
result. Many women depend on friendly
stick pins to fasten these extra stocks in
place, but 1t is much wiser to either fasten
them on With hooks and eyes or to make
button holes in both collar and waist and
fasten them with little collar buttons
Whlch need not necessarily show.
Lace plays a great part in neckwear as
Wen as IN every other adornment of
gown In this eXtravagant season. Lace
barhS which have been laid away for wears
past are now used for the high little ears
at the nape of the neck. They have to be
wired to make them stand out but it is
only matter of patience to edge them all
around with fine silk wire, which makes
them nearly leaf shaped. Or these halbs
may be WON in front of the collar in place
of bow, using the two points for ends and
making a knot Of silk for the middle of
the tie.
Jace JabOts or Anyway.
Jabots of lace TO fill in the front of
gown between fiaring revers of a coat or
boierc are very much worn and arr always
becoming. These can be successfully made
of lace handkerchiefs, and it is a much
more suitable way TO use handsome lace
than TO Wear 1t out in handkerchisfs.
Speaking of handkerchiefs reminds me of
an ingenious woman of my acquaintance
who wanted some of the lawn bands re-
ferred to above. She had some very fine
linen handkerchiefS with embroidered cor
ners, which w9Ie growing rather thin So
she took the embroidered corners of her
handkerchiefS and made two collar bands
or each handkerchief Instead of Being
oblong the embroidery made two cor
ners on each side of her collar, but the
effect was most becoming and the experdi-
ture of time and labor very small
MABEL, BOYD
Evening star., 1899-01-28
THE FIRST THIMBLE.
Worn on the Thumb and Called the
Thumb Bell.

Worn on the Thumb and Called the
Thumb Bell.
From the Philadelphia Press.
There is rich family named Lofting in
England" said a dealer in fancy articles,
the fortune of whose house was founded
by so apparently insignificant a little thing
the thimbie.
The first thimbles seen in England were
made in London less than 200 years ago by
a metal worker named John Lofting
The usefulness of the article commended
it at once to all who used the needle, ard
Lofting acquired a large fortune and great
fame in the manufacture of the l.ew acces-
sorry of the needleworkers' art.
The implement was then called the
thumb bell. and was worn on the thumb.
Ihe clumsy mode of utilizing it was soon
changed, but when and why the name
thimble was given the article does not ap-
pear.
lettings thimbles, and, in fact, all Thin
bles, were made of either iron or brass
and specimens of them extant, many of
which ara preserved as heirlooms, are
crude and clumsy looking things compared
with the commonest thimble of today, al
though their cost was many times IS mulch.
To-day gold. silver, iron, ivory, steel,
sometimes glass, and even pearl and celu-
loid are utilized in making thimbIes. Since
art needlework became fashionable Thin
bles of elaborate workma nShip and great
value to accompany the rich and costly
implements and materials wealthy needle
workers affect have found a large sale
Solid gold thimbles. carved and frequent
~ set with diamonds, have been found
none too good for some people. Thimbles
made TO order, with the monogram or in
ltlals OF the person for whom they are in
tended set in precious stones, are not by
any means unknown"
Evening star., 1899-01-28
Automobiles Not Common Yet.
DAINTY DRESS CLOSETS.
Perfumed Pads on Ceilings and Walls
Add to Their Attractiveness.
ErOm the New York Herald

From the New York Herald.
Perfumed pads for trunk trays and COM
partments of the dresser have proved SO
satisfactory in imparting that delicate
scent which woman love that one woman
has carried out the scheme still further
She has been in the habit of hanging sach-
cts of her favorite powder in her clothes
closet, but 1t did not seem to be as salts
factory as the pads in the bureau. She ex-
perimented By hanging sheets around the
wall and using a liquid scent but that
eyaporated. Finally she took out the pads
from her trunk and hung them on the
hooks in the dress closet Then she thought,
Why not pad the closet?"
No sooner thought of than done Her
best dress closet is now upholstered over
all the walls and ceiling. She did it her
self. The backing of the pads is cheese
cioth. Then there is thick layer of cot
ton batting thrickly strewn with her favor
lie violet sachet powder, and covering the
Whole is a delicate shade of violet China
SILK. Before fastening this lining to the
FalIS OF the closet it was tied in Comfort"
knots.
The pads are bound all around the edge
with violet satin ribbon, having loops at
the upper edge to hang the pads 10 the
wardrobe hooks. These bindings are NOT
'sewed to stay at the top, but NAV be
Easily ripped loose in order to renew the
powder at any time. Pads on the ceiling
ana above the hooks are fastened with
brass headed tacks hidden under the rib
bon bows.
This luxurious closet may be Initiated in
cheaper upholstery and be quite as dainty.
Sikoines, which come in such delicate bues
ana patterns, with sprays of the most deli
cate nowers can be used. These sheer and
lnexpe ensive materials are to be had with q
Whlte or shaded ground, and the SPRAYS of
nowers may match the odor used-yiolets.
roses, crab-apple blossoms, heliotropes, or
almost anything in the way of a flower
llpin i "hlch perfume is extracted. If
white ground with sprays of flowers is
used the bow knots can match the fiow,r.
ana II tinted ground is used, white rib
bon is very pretty ~
Evening star., 1899-01-28
CARRIAGE FITTINGS.
tp-to-Date Furnishings for the Well
Appointed Turnout,
From Harper's Bazar.


In these days of luxury women take
much more interest than they formerly did
in having all the appointments of their
carriages as perfect possible and it IS
extraordinary what a difference individual
and good taste has made in the one direc-
ton of the fittings for carriages; for the
carriage manufacturers themselves are will
ing to admit that there has been a great
improvement since women took interest
enough to choose their Innings for them
selves, and to insist upon having various
htnngs used which help them through their
calling, shopping and other enSa agemeuts.
Carriages used for everyday purposes are
generally lined with dark color. Some
women carry out the color of their livery
and Carriages in the lining For instance
IT the livery is dark blue with light trim
mings, the carriage Innings are of dark
blue. Red is not rsed now. Lea ther cloth
course. of the best auality-while many of
the vfctorias, spider phaetons and open
traps are done in light cloths. although
leather is considered quite smart. New
ertheless. with light gowns the light cloths
look particularly well.
Every weii-appointed brougham now has
q small mirror at ore side of n-a mirror
large enough to see how the hair and hat
look; hut besides this mirror there Is also
In q case that Is attached TO the front of
the carriage or at the side OF the carriage,
Evening star., 1899-01-28
History of Pocket handkerchief.

From Womlns Life.
Until the reign of the Empress Josephine
a handkerchief was thought in France 10
shocking an object that a lady would never
nave dared to use 1t before any one. The
word. even. was carefully avoided in re-
hned conversation. An actor who would
have used a handkerchief on the stage,
even in the most fearful moments OF the
play. would have been numerically hissed.
and it was only in the beginning Of the
present century that a celebrated actress.
Mile. Duchesnois, dared 10 appear With a
handkerchief in her hand. Having 10 speak
of this handkerchief in the course Of the
piece. she never could summon enough
courage to call IL by Its true name but re-
ferred to IL as "a light tissue"
few years later n translation % one OF
Shakespeare's plays, by Alfred d, Nigny.
having been acted. the word handkerchi.f
was used for the first time on the stage.
amid cries OF Indignation from every part
OF the house.
1t is doubtful II even today French ladies'
would carry handkerchirfs ~ th. wiz. of
Napoleon / had not given the signal for
adopting them.
The Empress Josephine although really
lovely. had bad teeth. t. conceal them she
was in the habit OF carrying small hsndkcr-
chiefs. adorned with costly lacos. which she
constantly raised gracefully 80 her lips. of
course, all the ladies Of the court followed
her example. and handkerchief then rapid
ly became an important part Of tn" fcml-
nine toilet.
Evening star., 1899-01-28
4 COMING QUEEN.
stories of the Personality of the
Princess of Wales

FROM the Chicago Tribune.
Queen Victoria recently admitted that of
all the members of her royal family, ex-
ceptins Only her youngest daughter, the
Princess EeatGix. she has most love for her
probable successor, the beautiful Princess
OF Wales
Alexandra, the next Queen Of England
Will enjoy in a way all the power welded
by her husband. ana Will have the full So
cial prestige now belonging to her mother
in-law
For this reason. and perhaps because she
likes Z" keep herself Young enough to en-
JOY this. the Princess of Wales devotes a
portion OF her time TO athletics. Her waist
Is marvel of neatness. and she n grand
mother with five children. To secure the
sE 'phlike HSure which she has preserved
past mid lie age she resorts to the same
M ans as were employed by the late EN-
press of Austria. She exercises constantly,
and one room at Marlborough House is
filled with automatic side saddles station
ary bicycles and ali sorts of athletic aids
She rides horseback. indoors and outdoors
two hours every day. and weighs herself
night and morning, to be sure she is not
gaining
The Princess of Wales has never CON-
cerned herself with state matters although
she must know what is going on She has
always been absolutely Indifferent to such
lhlHSS. ruleSS SwcTVcd TO one side or the
ether by personal fayoritism. She admires
Asquith- who married "Dodo" and could
have secured for him almost any position
but she was either too indifferent or too
careless TO ask. and the viceroyshp which
might have Deen filled by him today belongs
to another. The queen, who knows every
line OF the possibilities OF her statesmen
has ever been politician. looking for i'm
proved service. civil and military. but Alex
andra has never worked along political
lines, and never will; she is not that kind
of a woman,
Alexandra has her little weaknesses-aIl
wOmauly ones. She is fond of novels a
thing the queen despises. unless of the clas-
sic sort. She disikes famous people, such
as authors and artists. for she is timid in
the face of genius while the queen will
have Iufhins TO do with any other. Alex
audf1 loves Eancy work, and outline
worsted dog to perfection, white the queen
never takes a stitch. Alexandra notes the
hang Of the skirt and the cuz OF the sleeves.
Victoria is calmly oblviOus to everything
except court dress.
Brtishers will have something to do to
get used To their rev queen. for they will
have to reconstruct all their ideas of roy
atty. Court dresses and jewels will shine
IL the dun old rooms and music and laugh
ter Will ne heard where now only the echoes
startie he shadowy figures of former gay
ETY. Alexandra has been preserving her
self 10 have her royal Hing" and she is
woman enough 10 Insist upon it.
Evening star., 1899-01-28
NOVEL NECKWEAR
Stocks and Collars and Ways to Make
Them.
NOW MOST IMPORTANT PART OF GOWN
White Linen Has Suffered a Tenn
porary Collapse.
LACE AND VELVET MOST USED
special Correspondence of The Evening Star.

Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
NEW YORK, January &c. 1899.
BY their stocks We shall know them
The importanc" of this dictum cannot be
overestimated nowadays, In reviviug old
styles we have revived the fashion of most
careful dressing of the neck. AS much at
tention now is paid TO the collar as in the
days of knickerbockers men paid to the
swaddling band of snowy linen they wound
about their threats.
And stocks it is Just now. White linen
collars are suffering a temporary eclipse.
even the collars of the first importation of
summer shirt waists (Which have just been
placed on view) being finished with de-
tachable collar of the same material as the
waist itself. But though white linen col
lars may. now be muffied under huge ties.
or entirely omitted with ribbon stocks. it is
not probable they have gone for good No
Evening star., 1899-01-28
Which Will You Have?

Alum cream of tartar, in your baking powder?
If alum that is cheap and the baking powders
low priced but alum is unfit for use in food and
the whole weight of evidence is against it
If cream of tartar, that is wholesome 1t has
been used for generations for leavening; but the
cream of tartar powders are higher in price.
Of the cream of tartar powders Cleveland's is
the best. Cleveand's baking powder is made for
those who what they eat and who want pure
food.
Evening star., 1899-01-28
The New Pin Box.
From the New York Herald.

The care of pins and being able to keep a
supply on hand is something which the av-
erage woman has so far found very diff
cult to accomplish. The new pin box shown
is designed to obviate this difficulty. 1t is
nearly foot long and about five inches
wide, and is made of white metal or solid
silver. Inside it is lined with velvet and
divided into compartments for shell hair
pins, ordinary hairpins, hatpins, safety
plns-in short, all kinds Of pins. The box
is beautiful ornament for the handsomest
dressing table, and great boon to women
Evening star., 1899-01-28


or else white or gray.
Riue Fox the Rage.
A fad. unnecessary in the rink. but per-
haps on this account the more popular is
a tremendous use of fur Blue fox is the
rage, used as short boas and long boas and
for every known variety of necklet, and
also combined with fur of some other color
tor wrap and dress trimmings Blue fox
ana erTnine are beloved of many blue fox
and sealskin. blue fox and chinchilla Sea-
sh4n IS used to some extent; it would moi
be correct to say that it is out of fashion
but sable and chinchilla are more fashion
able. White cloth dresses trimmed with
Wnlte fox fur or ermfne have been ven
tured by one or two of the more daring:
but perhaps the most novel skating cos
tune that has been seen was composed
entirely of gray caracUl fur with panels of
gray velvet let in and jeweled with tiffy
beads.
OF the skating rink muff it NAV be said
that 1t is big. little. middle-sized: made of
velvet, made of fur; it is anything and of
Evening star., 1899-01-28

affectation of carelessness which is the
height of art was a huge bow of crepe de
chine The EMS of this bow fell almost 10
the waist line, and thu yoke was made TO
look more like an under-jacket than
yoke by having the bodice slashed down
nearly to the waist line on either side.
Through these slashes glimpses ware
caught OF the yellow.
Collars had long ago grown so high that
there was no earthly way of making them
higher. The most patient neck could not
stand ii. But canningly devised little points
Evening star., 1899-01-28

quantity of guipure. The sable muff with
lining and deep fills of ermine correspond
ed with the sable toque trimmed with white
plumes.
handsome young matron wore a bright
gendarne-blue cloth dress, covered with a
fine network of braid. In addition to the
braiding, the bodice had long coat pieces
at the back and stoles in front of appliuued
braidwork on black velvet outlined with
ermine. The same fur edged the hem of
the gown. A blue velvet hat was worn
trimmed with feathers.
Automobiles Not Common Yet.
Tt has been predicted that In another
season special dress for the automobile
would be claiming attention. In point of
fact, majority of the automobiles fooled
by women run only in the imaginations of
those who write about them There are
women who delight in such turn-outs on
the Riverside drive. and perhaps a few-a
very few-women have come down town
shopping or have drawn up at the door of
theater or opera. But the automobile gains
slowly, and for such costumes as have be-
come common in Paris New York will
wait more than one season.
Evening star., 1899-01-28
Drnb With Sable Rands.

Another notable dress that appeared on
the same occasion was of bright drab cloth,
trimmed at the hem with sable bands. The
very long reiingote quite covered the
derskirt in the back; in front it rounded
up a little shorter, and was finished with
circular t1ounce narrowing to a fur-covered
edge in the scanty plait in which the dra
peries fell from the bust. Wide revers of
sable We're the bodice trimmings, with
high, faring sable collar and fur trimmed
shoulder capes with which was mixed a
Evening star., 1899-01-28
siiL-Lined Gloves.
From the New York Herald.

S.lk-!ined dogskin is the latest thing In
gloves for winter wear. The silk Innings
are very gay. being of a fine and pretty
plaid ard fitted in on the bias. This lining
makes the glove warm, and the bias cut
makes the glove fit well as if unlincd
Russet. navy blue and deep green are the
best cOlOrs, and the Innings are selected to
harmonic with the shade of the glove
Evening star., 1899-01-28

toque was formed of two birds, one white,
the other black.
The second dress was of pretty shade
of brown cloth, arranged with two undu-
lating hounces at the bottom. Over this
was worn tight-fitting seaiskin coat with
cutaway fronts, trimmed with large revers
of chinchlla, which reached to the waist
and showed applications of conventional
ized flowers carried out in black Persian
lamb and jet. The small hoat-shaped seal
skin hat was trimmed with two amazon
feathers held down by brown satin bow.
A small seal muf was decorated with
h1Inch Of N-inlefS
Evening star., 1899-01-28
Not Too Late.
From Life.

"Old Skinner expressed desire to be Gre
mated, but see they buried him.
Yes, but he may fool them yet"
Evening star., 1899-01-28
4 Shrinkagc.
From Puck.


THE ropaiIsts are opposed to expansion"
well. their vote shows that they haven't
expanded"
Evening star., 1899-01-28

Miss Rural-''Young Richacres is home
again"
MIR. Rural-"Has he been to collegeT'
Miss Rurai-'I should say so He has
broken nose and one eye egone."-Exchangs
Evening star., 1899-01-28

vivid touches give the only color about the
dress, which for the rest should be black
or else white or gray.
Evening star., 1899-01-28

beneath each ear have added an effect of
height and a revival of a little friH Of
lace at the nape of the neck has so ele-
waited the stock that between evening
gowns and decollete gowns the contrast is
az marked as can nnsSihlN he
Evening star., 1899-01-28
Brown Plaid and Gold Crepe.

For instance. brown plaid gown worn at
the opening of the loan exhibition of por-
traits by the wife of one of our artists
who makes his home in Paris, and who oc-
casionally pays flying visits to this coun-
try, had a yoke and stock OF yellow crepe
de chine of a shade to harmontze with The
brown. Tied around the collar with that
The Worcester spy. [volume] (Worcester, Mass.) 1898-1904, 1899-01-18

The drop in grade marked No. l is at
the old Vail factory The distance is 1888
feet according to the profile in the city
engineers Office Number shows the
drop in grade at Vernon square. The
distance according to the profile Is S04.
Number 3 on the plan shows the drop
at Cambridge street The fall Of grade
is G.12 feet Thus there is drop Of 2249
feet in the grade Of Mllbrook between
Lincoln square and below Cambridge
street. There is, however. q defect Of
about inches under the Boston and AL
bany railroad tracks.
A commissioner told The Spy man a
day or two ago the grade Of the sewer
is none too good now. Engineering facts
do not prove the statement. From Green
to Cambridge street. 1910 feet, there IL
fall Of 1888 feet, more than a foot in
thousand. From the Boston and Al
bany tracks to Green street there Is a
fall OF PA feet in 2076, more than a
foot i'm thousand From the dam at
the old Vain factory to the e. a. A.
tracks, 34S7 feet distance there is a
fall Of 3.43 feet, almost a foot in a
thousand.
works the grade Is only foot In 20OO;
IN the metropolitan water works at
Northboro the grade is only one foot
In $500
When the separating sewers are in
operation, MillDrook sewer VIII not
have to possess as great carrying capa-
city as now. SO that the grade as It
exists at present, or a lowered grade
running parallel would be a better car
rier than Millbrook Is now The sewer
viii be relatively bigger after the sep
aration of sewage and surface water
and so the present grade or a parallel
grade will be relatively greater Study
1t up, gentlemen
The Worcester spy. [volume] (Worcester, Mass.) 1898-1904, 1899-01-18
FORECLOSED.
Front Street Clothier Loses
Store on Mortgage.

Jacob ]. Damn, one of the best known
clothiers in the city, certainly the best
known in that class styled the boys"
got into financial difficulty yesterday.
through the foreclosure of a mortgage
of $4,000 by Barnet Bernstein of New
York. The parties were in conference
for several hours yesterday and last
evening, but could reach no agreement
which would save Damn, and the store
will be opened today under the man
agement of the Bernstein firm.
The mortgage was filed in the office
Of the city clerk Dec. IA, and included
the entire stock in trade at the store
172 Front street, together with one
horse, two sets of harness, one ped
dler's cart, one phaeton and one canopy
top, two seated buggy. Eight OF ten
notes were given, on the first of which
payment was due about two weeks ago.
Damn was unable to meet the note. The
second note came due last Saturday.
Damn was not only unable to meet that
note, but could make no payment on
it. and the mortgagor gave notice of
foreclosure yesterday, which was filed
at the office of City Clerk Enoch H.
Towne.
Charles A. Merrill was counsel for
Bernstein. A conference of the parties
was held in his Office but, after several
hours discussion, they could not reach
an agreement favorable to Damn. Mark
H. Damn, brother of the mortgagee, has
been in charge Of the store since Dec
IA, in the interests of Bernstein.
The Worcester spy. [volume] (Worcester, Mass.) 1898-1904, 1899-01-18
THE IRISH ELECTIONS.
Results Thus Far Show the Waning Pow.
er of Parnellism.

Dublin, Jan. 17.-Judging from re-
suits already taken at midnight, the
irish elections today have been remark
able for success of the laborites and
the waning power of Parnellism. The
new feature is that women were allow
ed to vote for the first time. In Dublin
the representation Of labor has been
quadrupled, while the Parnellites have
secured little more than one-half their
FORMER strength, although, owing to in
ternai dissensions in John Redmond;s
party, 1t is rather difficult to give an
accurate estimate.
Mr.. Redmond himself has been elect
ed Tor one ward, but did not head the
poll, and therefore misses the alder
manship Timothy Harrington (mem-
per of parliament from the Harbour
DIVISION Of Dublin) is in the same boat
having been topped by new Iaborite'
In Cork. the Parnellites have done bef-
ter, but they have failed to retain their
FORMER ascendancy, having now only a
majority of one over the Dillonites
while the laborites have secured nine
seats Speaking generally. there is an
increase CT nationalist power, but moth
ms like rigorous exclusion of union
lists,