The leader., 1899-11-01


hung down in the back in scarf ends.
A new idea also with fringe as finish
was shown on white felt hat with a
straight round brim. All around it was
a notched piece of white velvet slightly
held in at the crown and edged on the
underside with silk twisted fringe
also white Around the crown was a
rich drapery of black velvet, with a
handsome emerald ornament. At the
back was large bow of white felt
stitched with black.
A very becoming black velvet shep-
herdess shape had loops and drapery of
the same with handsome strass orna-
ment in front and three large ostrich
tips. The ostrich need not lose any sleep
for fear he is to be slighted this season.
On the contrary, hats, wraps, dresses
and collarettes will all be trimmed with
fine ostrich hues, and muffs, fans and
boas will also be made Of them. l see
shaded tips. Wood brown and moss
green are colOrs often introduced into
millinery now, and always with good
effect. Pheasant wings, necks, tolls and
heads are all made into ornaments, and
these feathers nearly always embody
the two shades mentioned They are
certainly rich. A hat trimmed this way
was of drab felt, round and tip tilted.
A drapery Of crushed wood and moss
green velvet encircled the low crown
and formed large crushed rosette on
which were posed two or three pheasant
ruffs.
A new departure in hats is to have
the brim and edges of the trimming
bound with fur, mostly narrow and
black. A few have seal, but more have
coney or skunk. The hats are round,
English walking style or any other
shape, the fur forming the most salient
point, Fancy gilt buckles and slides
and ornaments are seen on almost all
hats and bonnets too. do not notice
so much ribbon as piece silk al velvet
in millinery and comparatively few
flowers. Filter and spangles of all
kinds are used, but sparingly on out of
door hats. Evening bonnets have some
flowers, but they are mostly very large
or very small. Grebe is seen very often
tening so that none but young, fresh
faces can bear it. The black and silvery
white of the grebe breast are generally
chosen as the point around which the
rest of the hat is built, the keynote of
a black and white arrangement of vel
vet and satin.
Some of the most opposite of ma
.n11 g.
hats. There was one of frosty blue
velvet with a wide brim indented in
front and raised high on the left side,
with very large flower made of bows
of the ribbon. The outer side of the
brim was blue velvet, with roll Of
very dark blue along the edge. The un-
der part was covered with shirred white
chiffon. On the top of the crown was
a regular pyramid of flowers and bows
The general tendency of the crowns
Is the tall empire form with faring
front. Tall plumes bend over in the old
way, and some of the bonnets or hats,
whichever one may call them, are rich
ly trimmed with fine old breton lace
Black velvet ribbons fasten in the back
and tie under the chin
am happy to say that the long
quills are being made up into pens or
something, for there are no more Of
them seen among the new millinery,
unless one may be curled around the
crown Of a felt golf hat
There are so many uses for the gilt
and beaded chains that the style instead
Of dying out has put forth new vigor.
Lace grows abundant and more pop
ular. 1t is made in applique revers. set
pieces for skirts, sleeves or waists. and
there are string colored laces, strong,
thick and rich woven, with all sorts of
headings. Many beautiful pieces of lace
for aouncings or edgings have the edges
fringed with soft. downy feathers
OLIVE HARPER.