The Afro-American advance., 1899-08-26
FALL sTYLss IN HATS
brilliant cotors aud str"nE Contrasts
In Leaf. FloNyer nnd Plume
VIII He poHsnIRr.

About the most elegant hat AT the
present date is the small Rembrandt al.
most entirely concealed beneath a
wealth of ostrich plume These
which are chosen of different lengths.
from the tip to the amazon. as occasion
seryes-are su arranged Is To cover the
grown and the hrim and 10 leave hard.
ly any of the foundation visible |Palest
sky and toruuoise blue and =rlenatis.
lnaase feathers are most in vogue. eth.
or mounted on straw shapes 10 match
or on white. Some equally elegant
toques are decorated with two anu
IONS fastened AT the bact SO aS 10 pasS
around each side, the curly tips meet.
ing in front in light ponf.A taque 50
trimmed with two pale-bine feathers is
made OF hairoloth woven of white and
blue. 1t Is turned up OF the left side.
where il rests ON a half earanet Of vel
low roses The same N arrangement in
mauVe, with eoronet If forget-me
nots, is equally admirable.Z
Rlaek-plumed hats ART also begin
ming tn put in an appeattne and bid
fair To he very fashionahl this autumn
Their elegance aud novelty chiefly de
pend on the way in which the feathers
are set in. Very autumnsd looking also
are the hats in deep yellow StrawS.
trimmed with late fruits and berries.
Different forms may be trimmed in this
way. the directoire cap line and the
wide sailor being most suitable. The
crowns are often bound around with
narrow ribbon velvet. black, clarct, ma
room or green, and if tie straw is an
openwork. one of still purrower velvet
will he threaded in and out Of It's
meshes. The lunches of fruit grapes,
| hlaek berries, medlars. etderberrics or
/ nuts arranged with thor own foli-
age, rest ON the hrim. a pouf of some
contrasting color is generally added.
/ This is sometimes made IA the form of
IA circular rosettc, with bunch at
poppy stamens in the middle
Toques. whether of tulle or straw,
are now turned up in front or more de-
cidetllS so on the left side the latter ar
rauRement being almost Invariably
chosen when flowers are used for trim,
ming. These are ARRANGED in n large
cluster covering the whole of the por-
tion of the turncd-up briu. which rises
rather higher than the crown. Me
dium-si1ed half~open rosfs.
ox-eyed daisies, poppies, corn flowers,
and for the early autumn astcrs and
small dahlias~ are most appropriate Ia
the purpose.
For trimming hats, on The contrary
large blossoms are preferred. \ sud
den fnrore for the grandltora clematis
has been evineed. The particular shades
of mauye and lilac natural to il are the
favorites in these coors, AID have helped
to bring them into fashion. II is con
sidered eXtrnyagant to decorate a hat
with five or six clcmatis blooms. cacl
measuring four inches or more across
Sometimes they are eho>en nil of ont
shade, but the most effective arrange
mentsare in graduated shades of mauSt
and lilac. or mnuve, lilnc mud white. 9th
er goodly sized blossoms that some mil
liners are affecting nre the arum and
Japanese lilies. The frs Is shown in
white and yellow. sometimes with 4
black pistil, or in black aud a yellow
pistil' the second ~ While only The
most approved method of arranging
them is To lay them along the edge ol
the brim.
None of these flowers is mounted
with its own foliage. Iris leaves knot
ted into bows or otherwise after the
manner of ribbons or else Ia the form oi
couteaux, come in nicely As an adj
diton to such decoration. II these
leaves are considered too dark. rib
bons are substituted. Millinery Trade
| RaVipNx