davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1899-03-11
PIN CUSHIONS.
The Number Necessary to Perfect
Happiness is Quite Surprising.
From Harper's Bazaar.

From Harpers BaZar
The number of pin cushions apparently
necessary to perfect happiness in these
days is quite surprising: but they are such
dainty little affairs, and, after all, so very
useful for holding the many different kinds
of pins that thu fashion is not SO foolish
one as might be thought. Oddly enough.
some of the very prettiest pin cushions
made are never used. They grace hand
some dressing tables, but there is always
pin tray put beside them, in which the pins
are supposed to be put rather than into the
small piece of satin or Drocade so hand
sCmeiy embroidered to be a work of art.
The ribbon work on white satin frightened
with little fine paillettes are the most ex-
quslte little things Imaginable; they are
quite small and round but are not rsed
except for very handsome jeweled stick
pins. Then pretty Style Of cushion is of
fine linen embroidered with the Dresden
patterns in colored silks, and trimmed with
little lace ruffie and very tiny bows CT
ribbon. There are, moreover. the satin pin
cushion covered with square of linen, also
embroidered in small designs; this last is
one of the most useful Of all, for. If the
silks are of the wash kind the cover can
be laundered at any time.
The mattress pin cushion, while not new,
is still as fashionable as ever and is one
OF the most useful cushions ever invented.
1t should not be over half an inch thick,
ana should be made of bits of satin ribbon
and quilted, or fastened with buttons like
the mattress. The pins of all sizes can be put
on the top and bottom, while at the sides are
the safety pins, and also the hat pins, and
1t is surprising what a number can be car
ried at once in these useful little cushions.
The round cushions drawn in the center
with gold thread, and made with the top
of brocade silk and the bottom Of velvet, or
vice versa, can be used on any bureau or
dressing table, and look particularly well
on the old mahogany tables.
The prettest toilet tables are those cGv-
cred with the dotted SWISS over some color
and trimmed with lace. and on these tables
nothing looks haH ospretty as the pin
cushions, covered 10 match. They should
not be large, and should have little bows
OF ribbons at the corners. Large pin cush-
ions have quite gone out of style, probably
because of the number of silver articles
that are now laid on the tables. and which
leave very little Foonl,, for the cushions.
Bran is no longer used for stuffing pin
cushions; cotton of a very fine quality Is
considered much better. Bran was given
UP long ago, because mice were so fond of
1t that the best cushions wers very soon de-
StrOyed, o~
Evening star., 1899-03-11
OYERSKIRTS ASSURED.
But the Tight Effect, However, Must
Be Retained
From the Boston Post.


Overskirts are assured This is seeming
ly a contradiction to the fact that the
close-fitting and tightiy-drawn effect must
be obtained How is this to be done but
by leaving off petticoats and wearing
tights? Precisely this is the eXpedient be-
ing adopted in Paris, and consequently
here, as the days have gone by when Paris
styles took at least a year to make their
way into our affections
The dress skirt itself, very tight around
the hips and fiaring around the lower edge
is to take the place of the petticoat The
oVersklrt to be worn over this lower skirt
we have already illustrated and described.
Only the most ciinging and soft materials
Will be used for these Preference is given
TO those having a crepe weave but woven
in such way as to produce the appear
ance of solid silk. Among these materials
the new satin antique is very strong.
When sleeves are tight, soft materials
mostly laces and goods of that variety, will
be shirred over them. Lace all-overs will
be the great thing for waists; in fact
transparencies are to be the rage of the
seasons styles. All the nets are tn-be
used. mousseline and chiffon giving way to
the net varieties. Heavy Planen goods will
be used in very artistic designs on taffeta
Innings of contrasting colors. The coming
popularity of the style will make the sea-
son a very brilliant one. The sleeves of
dresses of this kind will be of plain or
fancy tafeta in corresponding colors, trim
med in bands or squares Or other arrange
ments OF galloons of lace to match.
Evening star., 1899-03-11
Trimmed With Brightest Shades in
Flowers.
THE VIOLET FANCY STILL HOLDS
Ribbons Bid Fair to Be More Used
Than Ever
PERSIAN AND TINSEL DESIGNS
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.


NEW YORK, March 9. 1899.
yellow CrOCuses and blue periwinkles in
florists windows usually remind the pass
ing throng that spring is here. I've vainly
watched for their appearance along the
thorOughfares for the past week. and each
time my disappointment grew greater when
no slender necks from the familiar moss
covered beds thrust up their yellow heads
nor starry petals did protrude. 1t is the
custom to buy according to such signs of
the year, and by it We are ruled. When
early blossoms bid you good day it is time
TO be off with the old and on with tine new.
j want a straw hat. which, / confess. is
responsible for the deep interest / eTinced.
And after the manner of some mammas,
mine holds the purse strings. and on occa-
sion asserts parental authority by desg
mating the why's. wherefores and whens"
which SO frishtfully irritate Daisy. The
aforesaid when proved the undesirable
adverb which frustrated plans and made
me long for crocuses and periwinkles by
the yard Mamma said: Straw hat in
deed! Not till spring blossoms appeart'
This morning my floral messengers meek
alongside of the celebrated pink. Here they
were in fiat dishes sDringing from out a
mound of green. quite natural like, yet so
Evening star., 1899-03-11
PRESERVING CUT FLOWERS.
How to Care for the Various Bad
and BlOssoms.
From the Boston Post

From the Boston Post.
Ordinarily cut flowers perish so rapidly
that during the cold weather they are out
of the reach of people with a moderate in
ccme.
The most delicate and fragile of blossoms,
however, can be kept in good, healthy con-
dition for a month or six weeks If sys-
tematic care and attention are given to
them.
The first preca utien must be taken when
the purchase Is made Satisfy yourseif that
the flowers are very fresh. Remember that
there is a regular market price for flowers,
the same as for any other product and IL
your florist offers you roses at 80 cents per
dozen when the market price is 81, you may
depend upon it they have been cut for some
days and will soon fade. There is no econ
omy in buying cheap flowers. If they look
limp and the leaves dry, scared and gray,
they have either been cut for some time or
else they have not been properly cared for,
and are scarcely worth carrying home, as
no amount of nursing win preserve them
for any length of time.
The bright color the full, juicy stem,
vigorous leaves and firm bearing, all be-
speak nature in her prime.
A florist who knows his business will
pack cut flowers that they will receive
no injury from the elements during trans
portation, but if one has to attend to this
paper is the best protection in either win
ter, or summer. Flowers wrapped in par
affin paper and covered over with two
sheets of brown wrapping paper are wei
fortified against Jack Frost. 1t Is well to
carry them in a box to prevent accidents,
but If they have long stems and are to
be carried in the hand, the blossoms should
hang downward.
Before placing them in vases cut from
the end of each stem one-sixteenth of an
inch with a sharp penknife. Scissors nip
the pores together and prevent them alb
sorbing nourishment.
The vases should be carefully scalded
and then filled three-Quarters full of water.
into which should be dropped five or six
drops of suiphate of ammonia. This can
be obtained from any chemist, and cents
worth will outlast many branches of flow
ers. During the day the vases containing
flowers should be placed in the light away
from the heat and gas.
AT night the stems should be sponged off
in clear, cold water, so as to remove any
decayed matter which may have accumu-
lated during the day, and all the withered
leaves and Jaded petals should be removed
with sharp pair of scissors Take care
not to get any water on the flowers them
selves, as 1t will destroy their bloom. Dur
ing the night they should be put into a
vase containing solution of soap and wa
ter and set in a cool place. In the morn
ing cut the end of the stems again and
leave in clear, cold water for two hours
before returning them to the vases con-
tanning the suphate of ammonia
Violets, roses and delicate ferns will last
best If they are laid each night on a piece
of damp flannel and covered over with a
large bowl
Rosebuds will fatten into large full
blown roses if placed in the ice box for
twenty-four hours. While carnations can
be tinted to almost any shade by putting
dye in the water into which they are placed
Evening star., 1899-03-11
STRAIGHT HAIR Nowg
Curly Locks Are No Longer in FASH
fOnable Demand.

Curly Locks Are No Longer in FASH
fOnable Demand.
From the Chicago Chrunieae
The sfraight-fiair woman is at last the
height of what is proper. The reaction has
come, and straight haired women who
never submitted to the process of having
their hair undulated to increase their
charms win find themselves once more in
the fashion. The rebellion against the
crimping which has been popular for sev-
eral years will probably be enduring. The
news from London is that wigs have sud-
denly grown fashionable as the result of
the excessive use of the crimping iron on
womens heads in recent years. The fash
ion of having the hair crimped from the
roots right down to the ends made its ap-
pearanee first about ten years ago. and i'm
mediateiy became popular. 1t was becom-
ing to most women. and for once wcmen
who pOss essed beautifully waving and curly
hair We're equaled by artificial devices.
once a woman had submitted herself to the
process, and then looked into the glass, she
was the victim of the habit. The introduce
ton of the pompadour style had much to
do with the disappearance of the undula-
ton. as 1t was first called in Paris, al
though to this day there are women in
Paris who cling to this fashion of inprov-
ing their looks. The fashion was taken up
in London. where the English hair dressers
initiated it crudely. In New York it was
man there who is famous for his skill could
excel the best New York friseurs. This
Frenchman had a place in the Rue de
IEchelle in Paris and was known over all
Europe. Women came from London to be
treated by him and went back across the
channel with their heads wrapped IN cloths
to Keep the curl in and the damp air out
1 ne great merit of this man was that he
could produce the most natural effects and
Sc graduate the crimps in the hair from the
first to the last that they seemed to grow
slowly in size, and came nearer to nature
than any of the other crimps could. A
Grange in the fashion is no longer import
ant to him. He made a fortune long ago
His charge was only ten francs, but he
would sell the next turn to the woman that
bid the highest price. There wera freGuent-
ly women among his patrons who thought
more of their time than their money, and
would rather pay than wait. AS there were
sometimes several of these in his shop at
once, and as the woman who paid the most
got the preference, the price went lIp TO 100
francs at times. Now the false hair which
mas become the fashion is said to be the
result of the undulation. Hot irons Rave
burned off the hair in places on the heads
OF some women, and dried it up in other
places until it has dropped out. So the
Wigs must be worn either until the hair
CmeS In again or some style of wearing
short hair comes into fashion. The only
doubt as to the authenticity of the new
fashlon lies in the fact that it comes from
London. English women are notoriouslv
fond of piling on false hair until thew as
ton1sh French and Ama rican women. Pos
slbiy the burned hair is only a preteXt to
pie on more that is false and to cou1olete
their satisfaction by wearing whola vip
Evening star., 1899-03-11
Making Pate de Fofe Gras.

from the Paris Figaro.
To the ordinary man and woman no con-
ceptiOn of the torture to which the poor
unfortunate goose is put could possibly be
imagined
The geese swhen about nine, months old
are taken from the pastures ana placed
in an underground cellar where broad,
slanting stone slabs stand in rows, and are
bound fast to the tables. They are literally
crucified.
Feet, wings and bodies are spread out
and bound by bands, so that only the neck
Is left free. As may be imagined, the ami
NAL struggles with all its might against
this stretching, TILL after days of vatn en-
deaVor TO free itself from the bands and
its position, its powers OF resistance are
overcome, and duh resignation. broken
only by its low cries. takes possession of
ii. Two months must pass away before
death brings relief
The animals meanwhile are crammed with
dumplings made of dough of buckwheat,
chestnuts and stewed maize. Every two
hours, six times day, they receive from
three to five dumping pills. which in time
become so sweet TO the tortured creatures
that they stretch their necks TO be cram
med.
The most difficult task is to determine
the right moment for death. Those who
die of their own accord are lost to the liver
factory, therefore kind of study is needed
TO see when the cup of agony is brimming
full and the liver is ripe for taking The
where ordinarily fingers are buried In flesh
and fat nothing but skin and bone is found.
The livers have absorbed all the strength
and juices,
Evening star., 1899-03-11

in high favor all winter Contrary TO the
popular supposition, one does not have TO
be millionaire to possess one pettIcoat
ana one pair of stays fashioned of the same
material Batiste in ecru or yellow tones
or br0caded satin or silk in some dainty
shade is the material usually chosen BY
purchasing enough material for both gar
ments, having the petticOat cut and made
at nome under ones own supervision, and
gong TO reasonable maker of STAYS with
enough material for her use one can at A
modest outlay have an effect for which
every dainty woman longs. In fact, she
usually looks forward to her trousseau as
the one place In which il must have a MACE
if she never INDUCES in anything so un-
necessary, yet dainty and pleasing, again.
Where New shape Begins
Corsets are longer this year and bid fair
to lengtheu out still more in the future.
The figure of today is responsible for this
change. The sheathlike skirt and the
short. tight-fitting coat or bodice are in
compatible with the short hip i'm the ath-
letic corset of last year. A long-waisted
effect with small hips is aimed at And by
the woman ambitious to closely follow
Dame Fashions lead this effect is attained
by lacing the corset very loosely with one
string to the waist line. Thence II is laced
very snugly with another string This low
ers the waist line and produces the desired
effect OF slenderness. II will readily be
seen that this effect could not be attained
unless stays were longer than the broad
boned belt which last year was worn with
such comfort and which by courtesy was
called corset.
A Great Concession.
To reconcile the athletic woman with
outdoor pastimes to be allowed for. to this
loss of freedom a new corset steel is be-
ing fashioned. This steel is as heavy and
stiff at the lower end as all steels have al
ways been. But il tapers in thickness until
at the top of the corset IL is as thin and
SO We need not be hopeless over the longer
Evening star., 1899-03-11
Good Advice.
From the New York Herald.

From the New York Herald
Keep your children busy at some whole
some work or play, and this is more to the
young mind than long homilies on vice.
which only tend to direct their attention
constantly to it By occupying their time
every minute of the day they will be more
thoroughly helped and cieansed than would
be possible in any other manner
The majority of parents do not realize
the Importance of the duty laid upon them
or else they are too lazy or incapable to
attend TO it The first duty of the rich is
to be industrious and to inculcate habits of
industry in their children. If they are
taught to keep constantly busy in some
useful and ennobling employment. the
chances of their evolution into honorable
men and women are million times in
creased.
The making of collections and the hard
study of almost any branch of natural his.
tory are likely to interest children. The
making of machines, the intricacies of
music, the management of printing press
are all useful In keeping the young mind
occupied In a wholesome, healthy manner.
Evening star., 1899-03-11
LIGHTING THE ROOM,
The illumination Should BE Soft and
Mellow, Not Glaring.

FROM Harpers Bazaar.
The favorite way of lighting room at
present is the one that will give the most
light and not cast unbecoming shadows nor
too strong a light The fashion of light
ing rooms with electricity is, of course a
fad of the present time, but there are a
great many people who object to electricity
on account of its being so unbecoming;
and although some of the most beautiful
rooms in this country are lighted by this
| means, every effort is made to soften the
too crude effect.
In very large rooms-drawing rooms and
ball rooms-that are lighted from the top,
the colored glass globes are used Chan
deliers are not often seen now, and the side
lights are so arranged that while they give
plenty of light to the room they are not
placed on a level with the eyes, and they
too are covered either with colored globes
or with silk shades over the glass globes
A very attractive drawing room in New
YORK city, furnished in green, has all the
eiectric globes covered with stiff little
shades of green silk, shirred and ruffied;
the SILK is of SO thin a quality that it does
not darken the light. Rose color and light
yellow are also much used in shades for
electric lights, while some of the lamps that
are lighted with electricity have large over
hanging shades Of red; thin silk being used
the light is not too darkened
Lamps, If well attended to and filed with
GOOD astral oil, give the most becoming
llght, but some attention must be paid to
the lamp shades. Those most in fashion
are made on the wide round frames, and
are either of the parchment painted by
nand, or Of fowered silk or cretonne, fin
| lshed with a very narrow Tom Thumb
fringe The painted ones are, of course.
handsomer than the others, but there are
some exquisite designs in the f1owered silks
and cretonnes which are much less expen-
sive and almost equally as effective The
glass globes have come into fashion again:
those made of the shaded glass in the heavy
iron frames are of good shape and coloring,
put 90 not give as good a light as might
De desired. Any globe or shade that covers
the lamp or the burner of the lamp at the
base Is not suitable for reading lamp.
put these globes look very well on a lamp
intended merely to light some corner or
10 De means OF ornament in a room
candle shades daintier and prettiar
thah ever. They are made of both silk and
paper-some in the shape of flowers, others
IN SILK fitted over a frame and with an
oVer-irame OF f1igree silver. Women who
entertain great deal keep a number of
dinerent designs on hand so that they can
change the decorations of their tables at
any time The candle shades and Iamn
shades should not be used without a small
inner shade or chimney of some material
IKE 1singlass, mica asbestos-something
that is non-infammable, and does away
win the danger of the shade being burned
Evening star., 1899-03-11
Evening Gowns,


Ihe evening gowns show a greater
change In fashion than any other STYLE Of
gown. There is little or no attempt at
plousing-indeed, we have gone back to
the tight-fitting waist with a short point
In front and the bias side pieces that were
SO much the fashion a few years ago. This
Is rather a severe style, and requires a
drapery of embroidery. net or jet, to be
becoming to everybody. Some of the Dress
makers break the stiff effect by draining
the material across In folds, but the folds
are not loose; they are nodded as much
as possible to the shape OF the figure.
A costume that attracted q great deal
OF attention at the opera Is made of light
appie-green velvet. the waist fitting with
out any fullnes whatever, and having ap-
parently no fastening. The velvet is drawn
IN sort folds around the figure, and is
then covered with a multitude of Jewels.
the sleeves consisting only of a band of
lace across the shoulders. The skirt is
quite piain-that is, made without any
overskirt or founce. the front breadth
being mass of spangles, rt,inestones and
pearls. The odd thing about this gown is
THAT while all the Jewels on the waist are
real, those on the skirt are imitation.
Evening star., 1899-03-11
Shirt Waist Forecasts.

From the New York Herald.
If the elixir of life was ever discovered,
certainly the summer shirt waist has been
dipped in it Every season is predicted as
its last, and each successive season sees
it resurrected in brighter hues and greater
variety than ever before. The women said
when II was hinted that large sleeves would
be discarded and tight ones the mode, That
kills the shirt waist. AS soon you put
tight sleeves In # then ii begins 10 break
away at the armholes and becomes use
less
Last years medium sized sleeves proved
satisfactory. and this years first display
look as though they might be proof against
any ripping or giving away process.
White promises to be prime favorite in
the summer shirt waist. This may be ac-
counted for by the terrible experience an
pale vielets, blues and pinks, that have re-
turned from the laundry a muddy white
and utterly unfit for wear in street or
house.
The washable silk waist, which gave such
satisfaction last year. promises to be great
ly in demand for the coming season.
Evening star., 1899-03-11
The Fireplace.
~ Ii

From the womans Home Companion.
Besides the factor of genuine happiness
In the home a fireplace repays us for the
care 1t requires in the most practical way.
An opan fire is the best yentilator that can
be conceived, and If the living room of a
nome have such fire there is one spot at
least where one is sure of pure air. Head
aches viii not be common In such room,
nor nervous "fidgets' from close dry heat
sueh heat as marks the atmosphere of fur
mace or steam-heated houses. In addition
70 uhe living room fireplace there should
De one bed room at least in every house
Where an open fire may be commanded in
case OF sickness. The problem often most
unsolvabie for both trained and unframed
nurses Is that of ventilation in a sick room.
with an open fireplace there is no question
70 solve, no thought necessary 1mpuI tiles
IN the air are sucked up as fast as they ac-
cumulate and fresh air drops down. to be
neated bsfore breathed by the patient.
Evening star., 1899-03-11
SILK PETTICOATS
New Models and Wise Hints as to
Good Materials.
MUST Fit As WE'LL As DRESS SKIRT
long-Waisted Effects and How to
Produce Them.
SMALL HIPS ARE NEEDED NOW
'ecial Correspondence of The Evening Star.

Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
NEW YORK, March g. 1899
Not only is the silk petticoat an extrava-
gance which would have filled our forbears
with doubts as to our ultimate salvation
but 1t does not last, it wears out, or, if by
chance it is compounded of a silk which
does not fall an easy prey to ordinary wear
it goes out of style. No silk petticoat which
was cut before the new sheath skirt came
into being can pretend that it has any long,
er mission to fulfill. 1t must either be
made over entirely, If its frail and feeting
beauty will stand this harsh course, or it
must leave the field to a newer and fresher
rival.
The new petticoat must fit perfectly or it
will ruin the hang and shape of the skirt
over 1t. No gathers can be allowed in the
back. The only rule is to cut the back bias
The same pattern which is used for the