The record-union., 1899-01-10

QlO llOI Ie61 certain Ol Ills II eau. <1'JorS
the ice boss were some steep rocks,
which we felt our way up in the semi
darkness. These brought us to point
on the ridge where an enormous ice
cornice, thirty feet high, utterly barred
the way. We could advance no further
in this direction 1t was necessary to
cross the whole southeast face of the
Pico del Indio, and so gain its easier
western ridge.
If a thin layer of snow lying on this
steep face of ice had not been in perfect
condition, this traverse, which occupied
over two hours, would have been most
perilous, or even quite impossible. How
slowly the distance that separated US
from the western ridge seemed to d.
minish 1 cannot describe. At last the
face was crossed and little saddle
gained in the desired ridge. BY the
saddle was a rock mound, on which we
threw ourselves down, 207O0 feet above
the sea, and had our first view of the
eliminating peaks of Illimani rising
out of the great snow plateau, whose
existence up to this moment had only
been matter of inference. Now we be-
held 1t, a vast unbroken, undulating
expanse. Four snow-white peaks be-
sides the Pico del Indio rose out of it.
The two on the extreme right and ex-
IRENE left, respectively, were evidently
higher than the others, but which of
these two was the eliminating point
was uncertain. The same uncertainty
exists in all views of Illimani. Our
opinions were in favor of the western
peak. In point of difficulty there was
little to choose between them. All the
great difficulties of the climb were al
ready overcome.
THE SUMMIT WON.
A few minutes were all we allowed
ourselves for rest before commencing
the gentle descent of about 400 feet
down a snow slope ON to the great
plateau. By great good fortune the
snow still remained in excellent condi-
ton. We hardly sank into it at all.
Over great areas it was as hard as
wood. Now, of course, we felt as all
men must always feel, the effect of di-
minished atmospheric pressure. We
did not have headaches or any acute
symptoms, but we were all greatly re-
duced in strength. After about three
hours of slow, continuous plodding, the
inclination ceased, and we stood upon a
flat, wide saddle, which presently drop
ped away before US in the steep descent
that faces La PaZ. We threw ourselves
down for a few moments, rested and
ate. The altitude was 1,760 feet.
But we could not halt long, for the
summit was now too near at hand, and
only a wide and easy snow ridge sep
arated us from it. Slowly, very slow
ly, we wendell our way up it, conscious
of little except the toll, and over
whelmed by a fixed determination to
get the work done and ended. Twice
came to myself with a start, and
found I had been walking in my sleep.
One apparent summit gave way to au-
other, but the real one came in due
season Monsieur, a vous Ia glOire.
said Maquignaz, as he stepped aside
for me to stand first upon the highest
point. 1t was 11:3O a. m. The alti-
tude, as nearly as 1 can yet deduce it,
Is between 22,jOO and %, 200 feet.
WHAT THE SCENE WAS LIKE
We remembered afterward that there
was no moment of exaltation, no sense
of triumph, no exclamation of joy for
any of us in the hour of victory. We
just sat down and rested. Five min
utes later we felt as comfortable as at
sealevel, SO long as we did not move
Flagstaff we had brought up in sections
was planted in the snow. and the little
banner set waving, but alas! no one
but ourselves could see it, for most of
the lower regions were buried in the
sea of clouds that had infested them
ever since dawn. The lifetime of
Flagstaff erected in snow is short.
Although the view was not uncloud-
ed, it was extraordinarily impressive,
for we stood out in the clear air and
the burning sunshine, and all around
us were white clouds and peaks. The
near peaks, with their drapery of
broken ice rising out of cloud, were
magnificent. The southwark, continu-
alton Of the Cordillera likewise lifted
itself into view, but of Mampu and
the northern range we saw nothing.
Much of the high western plateau was
seen through gaps in its nebulous COW
ering.
THE DESCENT.
The descent, which began about noon,
was easy enough till we came to the
foot of the Pico del Inca and had to
reascend. There 1 thought my heart
would burst, SO excessive was the toll.
Twelve short steps and a halt-twelve
more and another halt-deep breathing
to recover the power of motion. II
was dreadful hour, but it came to an
end, and we could throw ourselves
down on the rock-mound and take be-
hind a last look at the conquered giant.
We decided to continue the descent
by a new route, instead of recrossing
the dreadful face up which we came.
Right from our feet dropped a very
long slope, likewise of ice, thinly COW
cred by good snow. With the tenderest
caution we took steps down this, plung-
ing at each stage an ak deeply into the
slope, and passing the rope round it,
one man only moving at a time 1t
was ] 600 feet down or more At the
foot was a wide crevasse or 'bergsch-
rund," which had to be leaped. and
then we were on leveler snow, covered
with the debris of ice avalanches We
picked our way across Them then in
/ and out among crevasses of a size I
never saw nor even conceived to be
possible. The bridges over them were
great hillsides in themselves. By wind
ing about we left this difficulty also
behind, and in due course rejoined our
! upward tracks. At $50 p. m. we were
at camp, and at 6 o'clock 1 was fast
asleep in the same sack of reindeer
skin which has so often sheltered me
in SpitZbergen against Arctic cold. Our
return next day to Caimbaya was ia
cilitated by the relays of Indians, and
lower down of mules, sent out by the
care and kindness of Mr.. Guillen.-Sir
Martins letter to the London Chronicle.
In the Cold. Cold Ground
verseleigh-You believe that all poets