The true northerner. [volume] (Paw Paw, Mich.) 1855-1920, 1899-07-05
INTERESTING FOREIGN CITY,
ANTWERP, BELGIUM, AS SEEN THROUGH
THE EYES OF NoRTHERNER CORES
PONDENT.
Antwern. Belgium. NAV 3. 1s99.

ter from this ancient but highly interest
ing Flemish city will not be amiss.
With the exception of those who have
visited Europe, find many American
people, especially in the interior, have
but vague knowledge, of the smaller
continental countries. Belgium in par
ticular, so seldom mentioned by tourists,
| find rich in ancient lore. | will first
call your attention to a few historical
facts.
AS we know from our Biographies,
Antwerp is the main seaport of Belgium
and dates back to the 9th century. 1t
is situated on the Scheld river, about As
miles from the sea, having a population
of 100000 Its history has been stormy
one, as at different times it has been
controlled by most of the powers of
Europe. In the latter part of the 10th
century, there occurred what was known
as the Spanish fury, and few years
later the French fury, both of these
events being written in letters of blood
in the history of the city. In 1S30-A
Belgium succeeded in gaining her indie
pendence from the Netherlands and elect
ed Prince Leopold of Saxe-Coburg as
King of the Belgians under the name of
Leopold l. On his death in 1865 he was
succeeded by his son, Leopold ii, who
is now in the 64th year of his age and
34th year of his reign
To a foreigner the city presents a
quaint and picturesque appearance. The
narrow streets, the houses, many of
which date back to the Spanish period,
many others in the Dutch style of archi-
lecture, the women peasants in short
skirts, wooden shoes and flowing white
lace caps, combine to make the scene
one not soon to be forgotten. There is
a multiplicity of small carts drawn by
dogs which over-run the streets; for the
butcher, the baker, and the candlestick
maker all use this means for vending
their wares. The continual baying of
these brutes, which are an ugly species
bred for this purpose, and the jolting of
the carts over the rough cobble, make a
perfect bedlam in the crowded part of
the city.
AS port, Antwerp ranks among the
! first of Europe. For the month of
April just passed, 46l ships passed in
and outiwith an approximate tonnage of
100000 tons. April is fair sample
month"; making an annual tonnage of
over 100000 tons. The docks along
! the river are extraordinarily well equip
ped, fact which the city owes to Napo-
leon, who began the construction of the
wharves for the use of the French navy.
Alas, his hopes were not realized! But
that's another story.
The city has some fine boulevards and
one large park, besides many open
squares within the city limits. The style
of architecture in the modern quarters
is monotonously alike, and all the houses
are entered directly from the street with
no steps nor porticoes.
One sees soldiers. soldiers everywhere,
and twice a week the artillery and cav
airy traverse the length of the city en-
route to the maneuvering grounds. The
Notifications are points of interest to an
American, who is not accustomed to see
ing cities protected by portals which can
be closed at night, outside of which are
notes with drawbridges, and beyond
|
this respect Antwerp is really the general
arsenal of Belgium, and is intended to
serve as a support and refuge to the
Belgian army in case the latter is com
PEELED to retreat before a superior force
of the enemy.
The museums are especially rich in
antiquities and art treasures, and attract
\,
lands, who with guide books in hand de
light to roam from the which
dates back to the 10th century and was
formerly used for inquisition purposes
by the Spaniards-to the Music Plantin,
which is really the ancient house of
Christopher Plantin, the celebrated
painter of the 18th century, and contains
in addition to the fine Flemish tapestry
and antique furniture a number of paint
ings by Rubens and Van Dyck. Passing
on to the Palais DIES Beaux Arts which
required eleven years to construct, from
1879 to lS90-one has a treat in store,
for probably 20 other museum contains
so many masterpieces of the Flemish and
Dutch schools as this beautiful white
stone building of the Greek Renaissance
style. To enumerate the subjects of even
the most celebrated ones would take up
too much space as the Rubens collection
alone occupies nine rooms, and two side
halls The subjects of these old masters
are mostly biblical and are startlingly
real in posture and expression. Rubens
Christ Crucifed between the Two
| Thieves" and Van Dyck's "The Dead
Savior" are exquisite in coloring and com
position, and show the unmistakable
touch of master hand.
The churches-and most of them are
, centuries old-also possess many fine
canvasses and carvings by artists whose
5 fame still endures, though their ashes
) have long rested beneath the building
!; they helped to beautify. The cathedral
which is entitled to first mention by vir-
tue of its age-begun in 1354-is one of
the noted edifices of the world, and holds
r Rubens famous masterpiece the DE
scent from the Cross" also his "Eleva-
t ton of the Cross" This grand structure
is continually falling into decay, but is
constantly being restored as near like