Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-09-23
NEW FALL HEADGEAR
Persian Velvet Ribbon Makes Pretty
Trimming,
IN SOFT TINqS OF BRIGHT CoLORS
Turbans and Toques Vie With the
Stiff Walking Hats.
HINTS IN MAKING AT HOME

Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
NEW YORK, September 81, 1890.
The little boy who has something he likes
to eat always saves it until last at dinner.
but 1 an. going to tell you the very first
thing about the most beautiful trimming
that has appeared for years, which is in
tended for either hats or waists, in the lat
ter case as scarfs wound about turbans,
toques OF English walking hats, in the for
mer as waistcoats or bright glimpses, on
somber gowns. Sometimes 1t will be used
on both and one will notice a hat with this
delightful touch of color, and see it again
repeated on the vest, shoulders or gulmpe
| of the gown. And this most beautiful
| trimming is called Persian velvet ribbon:
OF course, 1t comes in all those delightful
and mystical patterns, and 1t also comes IN
| the most exquisite gay, yet not gaudy
tints. 1t took half an hour to decide
| that a heavenly blue quite the pref
| test l saw one afternoon, but red or some
other shade might be another's choice II
| will not become common, as 1t takes quite
| a yard and a half to trim hat properly,
| and it is only about six inches wide and
costs quite So a yard. Remember 1t when
| looking for something very new and very
beautiful to brighten your walking hat or
reception gown. and If you cannot find 1t
| under the name of Persian velvet r'ppoh'
| look for liberty velvet ribbon. The name
may not be the same, but in every shop IN
which it has appeared in this town II Is
exquisite.
and many other colors do not, it may be
inferred, denote sober hued headsear Tor
the coming winter. Yet there Is nothins
glazing. In fact, the pastel shades, as the
mlliners and clothiers dub them, are 10 De
worn more than bright colors. These
shades, as their name implies, are the sort
tints of the various colorS. Some OF the
most pleasing are gray-greens and SOFT V1o-
let tints odd queer blues which yet escape
the hardness of turquoise, although even
lighter. and the soft gray and tan tints CT
the breasts of sea gulls and owls In broad
cloth and dress materials, as well as In
millinery, are these shades repeated, 50
we may count on harmony or even perfect
mat cheS in headgear and gowns.
Materials for ToGues.
The materials for the made toques and
theater bonnets are of these soft tints In
silk or velvet, embroidered as seed pearls,
in gilt, silver or white, and often the pat
tern of the embroidery is cut out and bo.tins
silk appliqued in its place. Not content
with this, the boiling silk is hand painted
in exquisite flower designs. 1t is all very
elaborate, but in such good taste on ac-
count of the soft colOrS that 1t seems too
desirable to pass by.
Little evening bonnets are compounded OF
velvet butterflies embroidered in gilt, with
a tiny excuse of a hat or bonnet tackled on
it. Or gilt butterfly, with black velvet
tips to it's wings, quite a large butterfly,
which in the flesh would be put in mu-
scum on account of it's extraordinary size,
takes the place of bonnet. For more
and more is it the custom to dress the hair
for evening and ornament it, and then ar
rive at ones destination without hat
or bonnet to rumple the couture.
With Ingenuity and Taste.
Very fetching bonnets can be made at
he sbap 1ayire fra W
to be had for a song. One can buy pale
blue violet or nile green velvet embroidered
in seed pearls gilt to cover the frame,
or one can have a pattern traced on and
embroider oneself. There has been SO
much advice this summer on how to have
enough of the embroidery which Dame
Fashion appliques on everything without
paying the high prices demanded by the
skilled labor which 1t entails that one grows
a little weary of constantly reading how
it could all be done in leisure hours. The
problem is how to catch the leisure hours
when one has not even had peep into the
most interesting books of the day on ac-
count of lack of time. With these evening
bonnets strings are optional.
The subject of strings, however, is quite
a long story. They are being worn in
either velvet tulle or other soft materials
on both capelines and bonnets If possible,
try your strings on more carefully than
your hat before adopting them. The mar
row velvet ones give the face soft look,
but they are apt not to give the idea Of
youth. The wide fluffy ones belong to
| tunately youth covers longer period than
1t once did.
Becoming and Popular.
Some grammarian once made rule that
when one was in doubt about the proper
relative pronoun, it was always safe to use
| the pronoun that. good rule in headgear
when in doubt what sort of a hat to choose
for evening wear. receptions, ETC.. is to
choose a toque. Toques adapt themselves
to any age from sixteen to sixty, although,
of course, the same toque would not do for
grandmother and granddaughter. Yet both
could wear a hat called a toque, and the
probabilities that the millner in making
them would not vary the shapes a great
DEAL although the trimmings and coloIs
would be totally different Toques are so
much broader this year that they lend
themselves more readily to various sized
and shaped faces. AT one time not long
ago they seemed to be aggravatingly be-
coming and evidently intended for only wo-
men with very straight noses and exquis-
itely shaped oval faces.
The toques just appearing at the different
openings are of velvet and on them are
most of these elaborate embroidered effects
described above. An imported toque OF a
soft lavender was low and broad, and the
velvet draped in graceful circles over it was
embroidered in silver and then cut away
and showed in the places from which the
velvet had been removed lncruStationS OF
boiling silk on which We're painted purple
wisteria, barely outlined and very faint, but
well done and most harmonious in their
shading. The toque was low on the left
side, rose higher on the right, and was fin
ished there by the white breast and feath-
ers of the bird of paradise
Another fetching toque was Of the Per-
sian pattern velvet ribbon, trimmed with
gray chtnchilla. When trimmed with fur it
is put on on each side of the front, giving
the hat very much the appearance of a run
about turban.
Turbans Broad and Low.
Do you remember those staid English
walking hats which were so large. agrees
sive and unbecoming? The feature of the