New-York tribune., 1899-12-24
SKATING IN PARIS.
THE SPORT BEING TAKEN UP WITH
GREAT ZEST BY ALL CLASSES
-,,r rr,xrr srpv-GGIING TO HOLD ms PLACE
AGAINST THE EXTREME POPULARITY OF
THE PLEATED SKIRT
Paris. December IL.


THE PLEATED SKIRT.
Paris December H. =
r,.,.. have .szerlv taken up skating this
,.,so, and the fashionable rink the Palais du
clsce on the Champs EIysees. is crowded with
fashionable and gay throng in the afternoon anu
with gayer but less fashionable set IN the even.
,nss That is women Of the correct worlo uo "o'
skate in the evening. but they often go 10 the IlN
"a SIP coffee about one OF the little tables IN 'he
baIconv and watch the or, wd Of beautiful women.
sressed IN the gayest combinations OF Veive's ana
furs and men In top hats and OFTEN IN evening
dress skating the ice beneath
some OF the costumes worn are reahE halNe'-
louslv beautiful. Imagine a skirt Of white VeNe'
made in the bonne femme style and worn with
short Jacket Of ermine. The toque OF ermine Is
trimmed only with chou Of cerise tulle ana
diamond ornament No less remarkable Is prin-
cesse eown Of dark red velvet. fastening coat
fashion with fur ornaments and fur ropes IKE
the frogs on military garment very Deau''iu'
is costume Of gray velvet with the skirt open
Ing on each side over panel OF white SILK accoI.
dion peated. and embroidered in lines OF sman
silver beads between the peats. This 's made with
blouse Of the same silk with bolero OF gray lace
and sleeves OF velvet. But the costumes are all
prettv almost all OF velvet and trimmed with fur.
In tho afternoon when the entrance price. by
the way is raised TO 81. the costumes are perhaps
less remarkable. but they are by no means con-
ventional skating suits. They ere chic as pos
sible The peated skirt seems the popular style
and with THIS is worn the short jacket ana waist
coat or blouse as gay. odd or unusual as Is pos
,lho within tho confines Of good taste. beautiful
front that has appeared lately is made OF the
rl,,mare Of birds This worn with lace stock,
oul;e transforms a cloth suit. There is always IN
the afternoon good attendance or men OF the
leisure class These appear IN proper afternoon
ar~ay--s top hat and long cost3' Any other form
O. dress marks man not Of the set supposed
he a
eirner At this Tine of the day the balcony Is
transformed into tea room. where good pro
ror:ion o. the smart world sip the beverage that
they tTy so hard TO IKE. .--
PANELS COMING IN VOGUE.
Gowns for the afternoon and for calling show
that panels are becoming extremely popular Here
ave several gowns noted at a recent reception. all
~ which show some form OF the panel. velvet
gown Of admiral blue has a skirt formed in few
tiny pleats In the back and opening in a panel on
each side in front The lines OF the skirt framing
the panel are cut in scallops and piped with black
cloth. and the panels OF white cloth dotted
with black chenille. The basque is of the fancy
white and black cloth and has sleeves and double
The second gowri is a ma enifcent affair of black
s. used for dresses The skirt IL arranged in many
pieats ana opens % oyer the unes6 OF sde rsYe paHe'
@ in aTEf OF SvfT clue rben nf S' Se TSe
sleeves open the outside of the arm 10 show
panel of finely peated blue mousseline de sole.
There is a vest Of the same thin stun in the gown.
This is especially pretty model Of a combination
of thfn ,and heavy stuff.
mCTe striking example OF the panel occurs
in skirt Of psest pink & cloth, pleated in the the
"bonne femme style about the back and hips
broidered with black velvet The embroidery is
SN The black @ are dots Of Bright pnk The @ bcnss
f. made pretty with ropes OF pink panne about
similar ropes and bows fan over the sleeves.
The tunic once so popular has not entirely de,
the pleated 'bonne femme skirt and the skirt with
shadowed the fame of the plain tUnc and UNDER
skirt but these arc still worn. and 1t would not
pSpaag p dSg 9 S e se Sa mS
eager for change this season and for hat reason
many figures this form OF skirt Is desirable but
be forgotten and they will undoubtedly appear
again. For evening gowns the tunic is the best
proaches this style VIII undoubtedly be more ard
more appreciated.
TOILETS FOR EVENING WEAR.
Here are descriptions of several evening toilets
In which the tunic is conspicuous. Beautiful IN
dced is gown Of accordion pleated white mousse
line de Sole trimmed at the bottom with foot deep
hounce Of yellow Cluny lace. over this is prin-
cess tunic Of black lace, trimmed with a wide in
sertion Of Cluny placed about six inches from.
the bottom. The shoulder straps and trimming
about the decoletage of ropes OF pink velvet,
and from one shoulder starts long trail Of pink
roses.
a., a graceful grace dinner gown has long tunc Of
man PINK In the pattern: The tunic, which makes
almost the entire skirt is draped on the side with
the fulness carried back into the peats behind.
Accordion peated gray tulle forms the underskrt.
The corsage Is Of the brocade to the bust; above
the brocade with choux OF pink velvet placed
are. Of gray tHiie II should be added that this
tunic is lined with pink and that this lining shows
where the skirt Is draped.
Ihe tunic on a ball gown OF palest yellow is fin
eompeey Tfe sdss assP m fringe Of 4e sane color that
oveiskrt is suggested by two OF trimming ar
ranged IN scalops This trimming is Of ecru lace.
nghtly Jeited and mounted over orange velvet. On
the front of the IS vest OF orange covered
with a drapery OF jetted lace. The shoulder straps
ranged with the lace that finishes the square cut
short tight sleeves They start from the shoulder
straps and reach half way to the elbows where
they are finished with fringe They ire not es-
the fashion which condemns them 10 wear the en-
tire arm bare In a ballroom;
toilets. A gown Of this material In pink with a
silver sheen over H., is made with a plain tight
OF the skirt is a narrow panel OF lace and meet
ing these at the bottom is a deep lace nounce
the velvet tying in a large bow the bust and
confined by a corselet Of lace. There lace
bows. A second velvet dinner dress is in a soft
shade OF blue. not quite so deep turquoise. II
Is made IKE an EMPIRE reding9te and opens oyer
colletage IL square and edged with lace collar
An indoor dress Of pale yellow cloth has A deep
trimming on the skirt made OF a lattice work OF
narrow black velvet ribbon, with silver bead
placed AT every crossing Of the ribbon This trim
ming Is finished by row OF yellow silk fringe.
The bodice forms slight blouse" and opens over
front Of gray satin trimmed as is the bottom OF
the tunlc a Directore telt is Of gray satin fast
ened with three silver buttons
STYLES SEEN IN CoRsELETs
The corselet Is beginning to be even more fash
ionabie than the high Direetoire belt. This is