The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1899-01-15
BRIGHT EGYPTIAN SKETCHES.
Going to Luxor to Spend Christmas
Notes Along the WY.

Notes Along the Way.
Henry Bacon, Writing from Cairo to Bos-
ton Time and the Hour.
1t was time to leave Paris for SUMMER
lands, and since we had an invitation to
dine on Christmas day at Luxor, Egypt, and
1t was some distance away, we thought it
best to start early. Our way was by Mar
settles and Alexandria.
How the modes of travel have changed in
France! We rode in a long car with cor
ridor running down one side; and instead of
the old-fashioned way-old fashioned only a
few years back-the old way of jumping out
at certain hours for refreshments at a sta
ton and boiling dinner of courses in ten
minutes, we had dining cars, with a really
coed meal for francs. Marseilles was the
cleanest seaport l ever saw-not a particle
of mud or dust. For the past week there
had been tremendous storms and the town
had had an enforced washout, the southern
wind bringing the sea up over the docks 1t
is pity that this doesn't happen oftener,
except for the disasters it occasions to AIedi-
terranean shipping.
The weather was fine as we passed
through the Straits of Messina, and we saw
Etna covered with snow, with a small purple
cloud of smoke hanging over the crater.
Generally after leaving the straits the sea
becomes rough from the different currents
which gives to the ship what the sailors
call the saucepan movement. But,
strange to say, the sea during this voyage
was calmer than usual So the passengers
were easy of mind and had begun to make
acquaintance. 1t was odd to see how the
smoking room was divided; the French at
one end and the English americans are in
cluded now with English in the French
mind taking the other. The English-speak-
ing crowd talk openly and audibly, the
French the same-over their cards; but
otherwise their conVersati ton is in under
tones and evidently not for our ears. So
we are very polite, with pleasant remarks
about the weather or the run of the ship,
but go no farther. At the French end of the
salon is an Egyptian dignitary, a French
man, who has something to do with public
instruction. He never talks with the En-
Sllsh contingency, not even giving them a
good day." but watches them glOomily. l
suppose he feels that his administrative
days are numbered. We nave an English
ger ral going out to take command in
Egypt, straight, tall, gray-mustached gen.
tleman who PAGES the deck without a top
coat, enjoys his BATH and has a pleasant
word for everybody.
Then you don't live in London?" he
questioned, as L made some remark about
living in Paris. l confessed that | was
not an Englishman; had not been for two
"Ah!" and his blue eyes lighted up with
amusement. Soon something was said about
the army. 1 also confessed to having worn
q UNIFORM and apolog1zed for not having
,"Ahr' Again his blue eyes lighted up.
See here he said drawing me into the
shelter of deck cabin, for the wind was
strong and cold, II should dearly love to see
our countries join hands Hold on! Let's
cabin behind rs They were emntv al
ways like to see who's listening" And the
general went on with his eloquent ideas of
roaring response from a crowded hall. AL
lance, we don't need one. We've got it,
he ended, holding his clenched hands before
him. We've got it We clasp hands to-
We passed Gambia (Crete) at midnight,
which was just as well, for the west side
of the island is barren, and from the sea
is only long, rock coast
Thence we steamed away southeast for
alexandria. 1t is delightful, after passing
Crete, to come up in the morning and find
the sun shining on the deck and the, warm
WIND blowing from the south. so mild and
So dltterent from the wind we sailed away
with from MarSeilleS-
From the piazza of Shepherds Hotel you
see all the world pass. They used to say
this of the grand cafe on the boulevard of
Paris, but times have changed. An Eng
lishman summing himself beside me makes
the statement that he is sure the metropolis
OF Africa will be in future years at Khar-
tum. A strange procession goes by Shep-
herd s-men in all kinds of Eastern dresses;
Eelleu ana unveiled women; animals or all
KINDS, with a prepOnderance of camelS and
dOnkeys. There is a tremendous crowd of
petticoated Arabs on the edge of the side
walk, and we lean over the balustrade to
find that the throng is around an electric
automobile which Rallie, the painter, has
brought over from France. The crowd is
disturbed by a swiftly-driven blackboard
and holding the reins is Prince MOhammed
Ali, the kings brother. This is progress, all
though on the borders of the city they are
still blowing with the old wooden pillow of
the Pharaohs.
The season is evidently going to be an
or steam has been hired by Americans and
the dragoman insist on showing me many
letters which they have received signed by
Americans, asking their services. The Sar-
gents, the Kidders, the Ameses, have all
ready arrived, and more BostonianS are ex-
pected Mr.. Harrison, the American diplo-
matte consular agent, and Mrs. Harrison
have returned. from their vacation. Mr.
Watts, the vice consul, who so cleverly en-
Spanish fleet, shows how a white man can
pass the summer here and have a hot time
without looking the worse for the expert
ence or the spanish incident.
One of the sights of Cairo is Newfeldt, the
German trader, who you remember was a
prisoner so many years, and, liberated has
come back to civilization. / met him at a
garden party. He was talking to Crook
shank PaSha, who was the last to see him
off up the Nile from which he was not to
come down for years. Newfedt has his
chains to show as souvenirs. He is dictat-
ing book.
The French minister did everything posi-
bic to aid the Spanish consul to get coal for
the Spanish fleet. The Spanish consul had
been sent off to some inferior post-for want
of success? And the French minister's wife
will not come out this season. She says her
child is i'll. So the French minister will not
be obliged to entertain. There are all sorts
of stories about what the English are going
to do in Egypt which cannot be written.
But the cordiality is strong between the En-
glish and Americans, with whom the En-
glish talk freely.
My last years servant boy is so delighted
white teeth and grunt-very like my skye
terrier. After kissing my hand and grunt-
ing and grinning he pats me on the back
and says, How you feel?'