New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1899-11-19

GOWNS WITHOUT CORsETs.
Paris November TO-
There has rarely been loveler autumn in Paris
or 4 more beautiful day for the Fete des Morris,
that curious day that makes France seem so unlike
any Protestant country. 1t is. Of course. a civil
holiday but IN spite Of the shops being closed there
IS little fete day atmosphere in the air on All
Saints Day all the world Is at the cemeteries.
The tombs and graves have been put in scrupulOus
order the DAY before dead flowers and old wreaths
have been carried away. the paths swept, the
stones fresh as new marble or granite. The usual
tomb Of q well-to-dO French family is small. In
closed altar and this has been swept out, the dead
flowers taken away the prie-dieu brushed the pho-
1ographs Of the lost perhaps put in fresh frames
the place made quite fresh and as beautiful as
French burial place can be. During the morning
OF Toussaint it is the custom for those VINO have
near relatives dead visit the graves TO pray
there and TO see that all is in readiness for the
afternoon; for the afternoon OF Toussaint Is big
Partisan function and every one goes 10 the Gem
eteries armed with flowers and visiting cards.
This Or ocesson 10 the various cemeteries OF thou
sands Of people with their arms full Of chrysan-
themums and with big punches Of violets in their
hands is an interesting sight. The usual custom
for the person who has no particular loss asso-
ciated with the day is to take carriage and so
from one cemetery TO another with offerings. II Is
the proper thing 10 do and one meets his or her
friends doing the same thing. One leaves flower
and a card in the little box outside the grave OF
Heine: It IS correct form for music lovers 10 lay
bunch Of vlolets on the grave OF Chopin, while De
Musset's grave IS covered every year with the
offerings of his admirers Young girls seem partic-
uarly fond Of visiting the enclosed tomb OF Abelard
and Heloise; they only throw flowers at II or
entwine the iron railing with ribbons and flowers.
but this they dearly love 20 do. II IS q day or
sentimental proper. conventional French senu-
ment
When French friends say goodby in the spring.
II is goodby until Toussaint; that much is under
stood 1t is a Fete of the Dead. but also the day
that heralds the return Of the fashionable world
TO the city. It marks the season for the early
winter festivities. and after Toussaint Paris life
may be said 10 have begun.
AFFECTING THE sYLPHLIKE FORM.
Figures seem 10 grow more and more sylphlike.
The conventional fine figure Is at discount. and
Nine La Mode from head feet e simply an
uudulating line OF suggested. not defined curves.
The ease with which the Partisan changes her
entire style is astonishing. Only few years ago
# was that she revealed. with her umbrella skirt.
balloon sleeves and fuffed hair. the tiniest Of
waists Her corsets were designed TO nip in the
waist and everything was sacrificed 10 II. Then
shoulders and hips suddenly went down. and IN
doing so the waistline became larger Now all
three have entirely disappeared. and a woman Of
forty is expected 10 have the figure OF girl Of six
teen
the figure shall be slender and rounded as IS
possible The best dressmakers preserve q perfect
line Of the back and under arm seams, but waist
line In front IS quite demode II is no longer
chic TO wear corsets; wears ''mystere. as
IS the name Of one Of these new bust supporters,
some other arrangement OF the same genre. II
must be some; hing which will support the bust
compress the hips and leave the waist free. Often
one entirely discards any form Of stays and wears
the dress with an extra lining. heavily boned THIS
Tad really threatens 10 take strong hold on the
feminine mind and II Is perhaps necessary to dis
euss 1t seriously.
The who quarter OF a century ago oF
more 50 rallied against the slavery OF the corset
might theoretically. be gaddened al the sight OF
FASHION taking up his cherished principles put
practically. II may be doubted II these gowns are
as comfortable as corset The dressmakers VINO
advance them put on the airs Of being responsible
10Y great discovery and are none too anxious 10
nave their models investigated by the FASHION
writers but Il is safe 10 state that there Is no
astonishing invention concealed in these costumes
ATTACHED 10 the gown from the back seam is an
uhoer lining heavily boned. This Is quite mario"
al hrst but In front II reaches from the bust 10
rome SIX Inches below the waistlne ano closes
with hooks and eyes set closely together. II IS