Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-08-03
4 MONG THE BURGHERS
Charms of German Seaport Graphically
Retold.
Its Gardens, Its Zoo, Lovely Drives
and Fine Homes-At a Band
Concert.
Special Cores .,ondence of The Evening Star.

HAMBURG, June %, 1889.
AS others might in their thoughts mis-
judge, as had heretofore done, the char
acter of the city of Hamburg, l should
like to present them small pen-picture of
this paradox of cities. The fact of its be-
ing one Of the greatest commercial centers
in the world Is well known, and known,
suppose, especially to Americans because
of the close commercial alliance we have
with 1t. This reputation may perhaps ac
count for my picturing 1t center of
sordidness. entirely given over to the pur
suit and the aspect of business, and to be
looked upon by me as merely landing
place soon to be left behind and forgotten.
But the result of my landing there has
been the fact that l shall never forget it;
it is one Of the most truly fascinating
towns have ever visited.
Medfaeval and Quaint.
Taking Hamburgs Importance as an in
dustrial center for granted, the wonder of
it remains in the fact that it is SO beauti-
full Above and beyond the never-ceasing
traffic 1t preserves the quaint character OF
a medieval town SO completely that one
seems indeed to be witnessing a paradox.
While driving in the most popular and
busy streets one may look up and fancy
9
TO the rows of DID, tumbling houses with
peaked gables and latticed windows thrown
open and filled with towering plants. From
each window different family group looks
out and a separate line is hung with
bright colored clothes to dry. Added to
this charm Of antiquity there Is the shaded
peace that hovers over the tranquil and
comfortable houes of the rich burghers
of Hamburg. d"fhese old residences, built
chiefly of gray stone, look as if no up
heaval of modern times could disturb their
cool tranquility and their old-fashioned
gardens that reach by the greenest OF
graduated terraces from the doors to the
sidewalk defy the dust Of traffic and the
ugliness of c9rnnetce.
A Scene at the Zoo.
The zoologital Gardens duriAg summer
afternoon present a typically happy Ger
man aspect in ther gathering of these con-
tented peoplet1n this fine park, under the
sound OF theft beloved brass band. They
seem to derive pleasure from anything the
moment offers. II You see grown people alb
sorbed in watching a trained bear, or they
feed swans, or merely sit for hours chat
ting over a, glass of beer, or erbebowle, a
kind of strawberry drink None of cur
restlessness or discomfort seems to shadow
their present and to the American sightseer
who is always reaching for the beyond this
picture of quiet pleasure in small possession
is strange indeed AS you sit at table over
your afternoon tea, or beer, watching the
snecta cIe before you, 1T is a very diverting
occupation to watch the people, principally
| composed of nursery maids, with children,
flock in from all directions. There is great
excitement when the relocated and gilt
strapped members of the band begin to ar
rive, which settles down, as the leader ar
rives with a masterful air, into profound
attention. Here they sit for at least two
hours, children strolling about and playing
ball, nurses placidly knitting, while the
! band, which Is excellent, plays untiringly.