The Worcester spy. [volume] (Worcester, Mass.) 1898-1904, 1899-09-17
WINTER CHAEPkUX.
Velvetand SatinStand
First Among
Tissues.
RHINESTONE BUCKLES.
RHINESTONE BUCKLES.
Plain Ribbons, Fancy
Feathers, Flowers
aud Tips.
Fancy

Velvet and SATIN antique stand nrSt
among tissues this season. A good deal
will also be done with soft, rich satin
of the liberty order. For covering hats
velvet only obtains, and it viii gener-
ally be laid on nat, or drawn up into
honeycomb gathers. Pulled arrange
ments are decidedly out of the running.
but the torsade, or thick coil of mate
rial, is maintained more particularly
for toques-a double torsade following
the edge Of the brim and then twisted
into a knot in front, being a favorite
way of trimming them.
A pretty effect is obtained by using
velvet for one torsade and satin an
tiQue for the other. Even where the
same shade,is chosen for the two there
is a slight diversity in the coloring,
owing to the difference of texture.
Some sort OF buckle is the usual compile
ment to a knotted torsade. Buckles
CURVED backward are most applicable to
this purpose. and also for setting in
the middle of bows made of piece ma
teriaa or OF very wide ribbon.
The dull and bright gilt buckles that
had superseded, TO an extent, those in
sinih are being superseded again by
buckles set with Rhine pebbles only, or
with pearls and pebbles, says the Mil
linery Trade Review. Many of these
are really works of art, and add very
considerably to the price of a hat.
However, they are to be had in all
qualities and firms are showing them
in great variety of form and design the
most expensive as well as the compare
lively cheap.
Milliners' jewelry is almost entirely
confined this year to buckles. Pins are
in little demand. Spangles, which,
however can hardly be classed under
this head, will be reserved more espe-
icially to evening toques and capotes.
They are unsuited to the style likely to
obtain most in smart day hats, which
are rather handsome and heavy in their
general appearance.
American buyers seem to have given
their preferences to the more novel
forms, particularly the large toque. For
the decoration of these handsome con-
teaux, arrangements of breast plumage
or of small supple quilts, laid one over
the other, and wings are most in re-
quest.
Many Of the new hats are trimmed
with plumes of cocks feathers, the half
long feathers of the tail and wings,
more or less curved. The tendency is
undoubtedly to preserve a certain hom
ogeneity of tone, therefore, plumage ar
tifically tinted is more in demand than
natural toned feathers
During the fan a great deal will be
done with painted feathers, and mill-
ners and others doing a popular bust
ness VIII find brisk sale for spotted.
parti-colored and other fancifuIlv
adorned couteaux throughout the sea-
son.
To certain extent, plumes enter into
the composition of the early winter
models, but are seldom placed outside.
big cluster Of roses is sometimes
placed against a brim turned IN in
front, or little bunch Of velvet pansies
underneath a fat brim in front of the
left ear. In some cases dahlias are sub
sututed for roses, and there is little
doubt that violets will run pansies close
as soon as the winter really sets in.
There has been good deal of talk
ABOUT black velvet flowers and their
application to between-season mfllin-
cry put II does not seem as if they had
caught the fancy of the milliners who
make for the American buyers.
Nor have these been much tempted
py the Fancy ribbons which are being
largely used to trim country and other
autumn hats, in combination with all
manner Of quill feathers, corteaux. fri
gates and the like, frequently clipped
into the most fantastic shapes at their
extremities:
flain ribbons are great deal favor
ed, but are only required in very wide
widths. Alsace bows are made both of
piece materials and of ribbons. In the
latter case the edges of tie ribbon are
turned urderneath so that the effect is
almost Identical. The large bows used
20 decorate hats. and which one usually
puts on the right side of the crown to
balance g plume of feathers on the left,
or else almost in front, are made, also
of very wide ribbon, With tvs or three
loops on each side, gathered up very
narrow in the middle and clssped about
with curved buckle. Beside these var
1ous arrangements Of ribbons and ma
terial into large bows, torsades and
knots, there is new kind of rosette
which is formed of a broad band Of
satin folded double, and then twisted
round in spiral form into the vague re-
semblance Of a huge half open rose.
Rosettes of velvet ribbon, either quite
narrow or half-inch in width, although
they have been worn for some time. will
be maintained for the winter, more es-
pecially for placing underneath brims
when they take the place Of flowers.
A third kind Of rosette, composed of a
plated banG of velvet either plated
double or lined with satin, which is fiat.
~
spokes. is not only set edge forward in
the front of toques ard capotes Cocks
comb fashion, as described ahave) but
also against the crowns of hats, and
against the ears Of small capotes, max
ing the latter resemble the headdresses
worn by the Dutch peasantry.
The all-important question of colors is
not to be disposed Of by mere reference
to the card issued by the Union des Syn
dicats this season. The list in question
contains some brilliant crimsons and
scarlets and crude green's which do not
seem likely to be adopted by the best
houses. where there is a decided ten
dency toward low tints, the exceptions to
this rule being in favor of the rose and
coral pinks.
Again. the very light shades. known
as pastel tints, are only represented by
the grays and pinks whereas combi-
nations of these shades are in high
favor for smart millinery.
The three pinkish mauves-Baronne
Marquise and Duchesse-and the two
deepest shades of the five blush violets
-Clochette and Tris-will undoubtedly
be extremely popular Each of the six
shades Of brown shown has its place
assured in the winter program, but 1
am inclined to be less positive in re-
spect to the grays. Reds are largely
represented. No mistake should be made
as to the prior Importance of the Bor-
deaux series of reds, and of the crfm-
son docSeted Rourpre. / have mis-
givings as tothe safety of dealing large
ly in yellows, although at the present
date there is rather a fancy for this
color mixed with white or black.
Where ostrich is the trimming chosen.
very little else is needed, long and short
feathers combining together in rich
luxuriousness. The same may be said
OF the semi-circuiar mounts of breast
plumage, two Of which go to adoru
toque with a small bow an aigrette,
or even a simple buckle, IL the velvet
be eathared nunr the firm PM . n .,