The times., 1899-09-10

LONDON, Sept. 3.-AmeTieans who have
seen the sights cf London, and who, within
a limited time, desire to see something Of
rural England. could not do better than
take a run down to the highlands of Sur
rey. and pitch their tents in the ancient
and honorable town of Guildford. 1t is
twenty mine miles southwest of Charing
Cross. and is situated in the heart of a
district rich in scenery and interesting his
toricsl associations. Economically placed
by the River Wey, an ideal stream 10 the
artist. the poet. and the admirer Of leafy
glades. rustic ferries and picturesque locks
beloved OF Herrick, Guildford boasts many
artistic and antiquarian attractions OF its
own besides forming charming centre
frora which to Ta-nble over hill and dale. to
visit quaint old towns and villages. stately
manors. ruined monasteries, cTumbilng cas-
ties, and places interesting from their as
sociation with great events and famous
men and women.
Having spent ten days in Guiidford dur
ing the month of July of the present
year I feel inspired TO say a good word in
its favor. The party consisted of three
my wife. daughter. and myself. The ladies
being amateur artists, naturally came pre-
pared to paint anything in nature or out
of il, from piethorie old scow with terra
Gotta sails to a broken-down house with
its roof in the wrong place, and they were
not disappointed. Women artists are the
easiest people in the world TO go an out
ing with; they travel light. are utterly in
different TO public criticism, and do not
care what kind of a hat they wear, SO long
as il protects their eds and sticks on
straight. My tastes run to books, totter-
ing walls monks with broken noses, an
cient legends. and tobacco. On the whole.
we managed 10 enjoy Guiidford hugely in
our several ways.
The house in which we lodged delighted
me II must have been several hundred
years old, and. according to local tradition,
originally formed one OF a set OF houses
which were attached 10 the castle. although
outside OF the castle walls. The ceilings
were low and the rafters and woodwork
generally solid the rock of Gibraltar
Everything was clean-a desideratun rot
always to be met with in country lodgings
and the landlady, good Old soul with
talent for retrospection. modestly charged
for one sitting-room and two airy bed
rooms, with cooking. lights, and attend
ance without extras Gl per week. Extras
generally include three and six for de-
cayed cruet-stand containing tuppence
worth Of condiments. three and six for
the attendance of a down-at-heei hand
freckles, three and six for the use OF a tin
tub for next TO godltness" purposes.
three and six for use Of kitchen IRE, and
Ell extra three and six for the privilege OF
exchanging good-moTning with the land
lady. Our sirting-room was rot paiatial;
IL would Eot have suited millionairess.
You entered /; from the street; there we're
depressing chromos on the walls and low
er animals in china on the mantelpieee;
Tsna Lad he Kerosene
lamp suffered from q throat affection; but
then our good landiady provided every
thing necessary for our modest require
ments and she knew how to cook. Her
apple pies were poems A putting kind OF
an engine, whose business IL yes to pump
UP water for the use of the inhabitants,
had an unpleasant habit OF sitting up and
putting all night. but you get used TO it,
Some people like pulling, even in their
sleep On the whole. We were very COM
Portable. and we have recommended the
rooms 10 our friends. There is no know
ing. Of course, when one or more Of them
may return AID Dpbrsia US. perhaps say
sarcastic and cutting things-peopie have
such different tastes-and il is always
risky thing TO recommend a wife doe-
TOR. or servant. or lodgings. A native con-
Aded to NE n strictest confidence the
fact that King John had once resided in
our house: II Il wasn't John il was King
Emery the Second John was bad egs
all through He put out his nephews
eyes, tortured the Jews, oppressed the
people snapped his fingers al the Pope.
and did all sorts Of measly things. For
tunately the barons snufied him out
Henry WAS the patron saint OF Guiidford,
and a very different sort OF a man. He
built the castle and proved himself 10 be
q wise and large minded monarch had a
notion that the native was lying, but
merely thought IL; he meant we'll
A HsIIy Old Town.
Guiidford is all hills and dales. The
main street begins al the river and climbs
70 the summit Of hill The drainage be-
ing excellent, it is clean as a new pin. and
beautifully paved. As you stand at the
bridge and look upward the street has a
fne Old-Worid look A grand cid clock.
which looks both ways for Sunday. stands
fixed on a projecting beam IL front OF the
zoEn hall; and everywhere the vista is
adorned by quaint old houses. oyerhanging
stories, queer old gables, sixteenth century
public buildings. capital shops. and vener-
able church spires The history OF the
town goes back 20 Saxon times and TO the
Eciids which fourished at that period. Il
was royal manor in King Alfred's day.
and was beQueathec by that monarch to
his nephew. Etheiwald. Money was coined
IN Guildford IN both Saxon and Norman
times. and silver pennies OF Ethelred II
fr76) and OF our old ana esteemed friends
Greet Harthenut Edward the Confessor,
Harold H. william I and III are extant.
Many charters have been given TO Guild
ford by successive moEarchs. and the civic
; cigHgtaries are very proud OF their gold
and silver relics they own the second o d.
Il est mace ia England, that OF Hedon (Yorksl
being the Oldest. Msces were popular
weapons OF offence in the old fighting days,
End were generally used by persons who
were not entitled 20 carry swords. AS a
croWn-cracker the mace was even more
effective than the llligant shiiieiah. After
one application tie gentleman operated
on never made one remark Guilford boast
cd bear batting and cock-fghting arenas
and two maypoIes The Red Lion Inn.
which Mr. Pepys used 10 patrunize when
weary OF old Rowley's peccadilloes or Mrs
P's opportunities. Is still TO the fore. but
the ducki1g- stool Is away AS early as
z2ss IL was the custom for the authorities
10 duck ladies addicted TO scclding in this
stool and the remedy is said 10 have been
eficacions. for il is = physical inpossibil-
fty for any lady ''as is LADY 10 sc9d
when her mouth Is full OF water No provi-
syfon was made for men scoids; only the
poor women suffered We have changed ali
that and IL a ducking-stooi were set up in
Guildford tomorrow II would be occupied
exclusively by persons Of the male gender.
We have spoken
Frequensed by holy fFriars.
Before Emery VII turned them adrift
Guildford was great resort for holy friars