The Worcester spy. [volume] (Worcester, Mass.) 1898-1904, 1899-10-15
WOMEN JEWELLERS.
They Are an Interest
ing Feature Of
Manila.
THEY ARE CLEVER LAPIDARIES.
Their Skill Far SurpaSseS
That of the
Men.
THEY ARE CLEVER LAPIDARIES.

of Manila industrial life is the wonder
full skill and ingenuity of its lapidaries
and gem-setters, who, strange to say,
are the women of the population, whose
taste and workmanship have far sur
passed the powers of the men.
He who has visited Spain and Mo-
rocco must have remarked the supe-
riority of the Spanish artifcer, who has
taught all of the excellences of his craft
to the natives of his colonies, says the
New York Ledger. In the case of the
Philippines, the pupils have improved.
The shops are small, often mere dens,
with gloomy interior, which seems a
strange setting for the beautiful work.
Rents are high, and what is worse,
the Spanish system Of taxation rem
dered it imprudent for a shopkeeper to
display much stock. The customer en-
tiers, is disappointed at the meagre as
sOrtment shown, and goes away, irri-
tated that he had been persuaded to
leave his name and address. Later in
the day, or the next morning, he is in
vited-nay, urged-to repeat his visit,
and, if he refuses, he is inveigled there
in one mode or another. Should he
still prove obdurate, the persistent, gen
tie llllle DfONH WOMAN Calls OIl ulIIl,
or waits patiently on the steps of his
hotel, her wares in a locked box under
her rebOsa.
Such sparkle of color and glitter of
treasure! The broiling sunshine sleeps
the streets, and all Manila quivers in
the languor of the tropics, but the tiny
shop is cool. Before the wonders now
exhibited, one forgets to remember the
thermometer.
Ar,o,,cr +1,o +,.o.o e,,,,.rs, 80 80. 30 +l,o.o
little shops are necklaces of delicate
pink coral; coral balls for the deco
ration of grandees' capes; dainty statu-
cites of coral, with the body and limbs
formed of the stem and its branches;
rosaries with beads like drops of blood,
pendants of pure white pearls, lustrous
and pear-shaped; chains of pearls,
drop-shaped ear-jewels, which the sell
err assures one are the Offspring of
tears and suffering; great yellow pearls,
the favorite purchase of the Chinese
merchant; and costly strings of pink
pearls of peculiar iridescence.
There are sets of blood-red cabochon
garnets, consisting of earrings, pin and
finger ring and other sets of the orange
red variety, that emit light, in the
dark, like flame. Indeed, the kinds
of garnet displayed are bewildering.
Silver fligree set with yellow garnets;
handles thickly covered with pale green
garnets; nacre knife handles that spar
kle with the lightning of carbuncles;
and small bowls of opalescent mother-of
pearl that glow with their red fire.
The saleswoman is astute. Never
think that she does not note the sur
prise and admiration of her visitors
face. She turns insinuatingly, and
says in her rich alto voice: Every
pretty; look YOU One looks, and is
lost.
1t does not seem possible that the
work she is showing you can be gold
only gold-so fine and lacelike are the
patterns. There are a chain, a neck
lace, a chatelaine. hatpin, and a
brooch, all of the deepest yellow gold
from eighteen to twenty-five karats and
of exquisite handiwork. The chain looks
like a long yellow braid of hair, tied
at the clasp with a true lovers knot
that it may not unravel itself. The
necklace is a flexible, delicate-veined
stem, from which branch pendants of
the daintiest golden ferns. Anything
more graceful or artistic than this
work is would be difficult to duplicate,
except, perhaps, in the gold smitheries
of Ceylon. The chatelaine is composed
of solid ropes of gold (eXact copies Of
manila hemp rope even to the threads)
with clasps designed like sh-hooks.
The hatpin is a miniature Malay creese,
with a water lily leaf for a handle, and
the brooch a golden alligator or young
cayman, the scale work, being a most
ingenius imitation of nature.
The sum of 1853 Spanish pesetas $780,
50, gold purchases this entire set of five
pieces; less than would be asked for the
necklace alone in New York, London
or Paris.
This woman has brought the crude
gold from the country, made her own
alloys, drawing out the gold wire, and
beating it with hammer and anvil, fol-
lowing, step by step, the most modern
and scientific processes of metal-smith-
ing.
These metal workers are as skillful
with silver as with gold. Marvellous
bangles of chased silver, set with prec-
ious stones, and brooches and pen
nants OF quaint designs, all manifest the
most thoughtful human labor. Que can
have no idea of how much can be dore
with silver until he has seen this pro-
fusion Of devices in which it is used.
Very likely the collection will contain
some exquisite breastpins and stick
pins of rubies, some a lovely poppy-red
others of deepest carmine, like drops
of frozen wine; but the astonishing
feature is the superb taste and ingen-
uity which these women, often illit~ate
and entirely unlettered. demonstrate
and many a jeweler whose designs are
monotonously conventional might learn
a useful lesson from these Philippine
lapidaries.
Look you" says Concha again cher
name is Conception; diminutized, Con-
cha), and she pulls out a necklace OF
gold, blue enameled, set with gray
pearls, the harmony of stone and set
ting perfect.
"Why not amethyst instead of pearls
Concha? one asks, but she shrugs her
shoulders depreciatingly.
Amethyst looks vulgar with gold,
nina" she answers.
Fewer rings are to be noticed, per.
haps than any other ornament the be-
trothal rings being almost universally
enameled gold, but earrings, necklaces
bracelets, chains, buttons, small pins
and brooches are abundant.
These lapidaries combine the ability
of the Moorish gemworker with the
patience and originality of the Chinese
and japanese craftsman, because they
are adept enamelers, and sacrifice even
design TO color in this branch OF their
work; and in all of their jewelry
daintiness and personality, altogether
irresistibility attractive, are felt. The
longer one looks the more he becomes
convinced that the display before him
is the expression of a mind, the out
come of a personal art, and this belief
is wholly satisfying, for, above all
else a Jewel should be unioue