The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1899-04-02
CHARACTER
IN DRESS.
Daisy May Sets Forth Elk
hauStiVGly the Ethics Of
Fashionable Wear
For Women.
Copyright, 1891

The man dressmaker is a la mode
Some fashionable women, not Of the
elect, discovered one who is a talented
falker. His services were Immediately
engaged for a series of lectures, and
judging from his first effort he knows
whereof he speaks. OF course Aunt
Hetty thought if would be fun to meet
and hear a rival of Russell the aesthetic
who fetched and carried fashions in
Delsarte attitudes, east and west of the
Rockies, some years ago. So there we
were, seated in the front row, prepared
TO applaud the really good things or
silently acknowledge truths. He prom
Uses an illustrated lecture next time,
which no doubt will be more entertain
ing if not so instructive.
When the subject was announced as
f'Discretion In Dress; or What to
Wear" there were audible Obs" and If
my ears did not play me false 'Pshaw!"
was little less emphatically pronounced
several times. Nothing daunted. the
man dressmaker explained that he
would also talk of Character In
Clothes" and give some neWSy items of
fashion. Realizing that the foundation
of the house IS neither the most inter
esting nor pleasing portion of the struc-
ture, although necessity, rather liked
his way of starting out, and when he
had finished l was perfectly convinced
that his method was distinctly praise
worthy. In fact, so greatly was I i'm
pressed by his plain statements and
comprehensive knowledge that 1 Dor
rowed his leafiet to COPY:
ITO define the well dressed woman is
to say she is properly gowned for the
specific occasion. Having once mas
tered this first principle. second
thoughts may be given to expressing
character in clothes. An observance of
practical suggestions allied with a mod
1cum of good taste makes both condi-
tions possible. Tersely put. simplicity
is the handmaiden of elegance. the art
of buying and of dressing are fnseD-
arabic sisters, expensive materials are
not necessarily the most satisfactory.
becoming color combinations are the
keynote of success. face and figure are
to be considered when deciding upOn
the cut of your clothes For the woman
of moderate means good judgment must
all rules. If she be plan-
ming frocks for the season, il is her
first duty to discover if any of last
years belongings are available. If she
can convert the cast off evening gown
into simple house dress, she has a
greater sum to spend for the coveted
crepe de chine, out of which will be
fashioned the piece de resistance of the
outfit
The day when a handsome black silk
did duty for every function is replaced
by an age where discrimination in the
matter of ones wardrobe is as impor-
tant as the possession of it. Yet the
well dressed woman will always find a
smart black frock an essential.
81 deprecate the idea some have that
black satin skirt and colored bodice
are fitted for all occasions. 1t is faila-
cious. There is nothing so detrimental
to pleasing effects as a mass of colors
one above another. Harmony is abso-
lutely necessary. A striking contrast
creates distinct dividing line between
one part and the other part of the BODY.
which for obvious reasons we should
avoid. From an economic viewpoint
two toned silk for dressy wear is in
dnitely to be preferred.
For instance, when heliotrope and
black are interviewer a black bodice.
with pipings, stock and jeweled corselet
of heliOtrOpe, may be worn for church
and calling. while another corsage of
delicate heliOtrOpe shade. yelled in
black diaphanOus material. supplied
with ecru lace yoke, would fail TO offend
the artistic eye at an afternoon recep-
ton or evening entertainment
Let it be understood fun dress af-
fairs invariably demand decollete.
The wearing of a shirt waist and
satin skirt is to be decried. Cotton and
silk are impossible together There is /
no excuse Of convenience which can
conceal the incongruity. Even the com
promise of fancy muslin or linen blouse
is not to be tolerated. The discrepan-
cy is quite as glaring as would be the
donning of a stiff banded sailor hat
with dainty foulard bedecked in rib
bons and laces. If you plan a picture on
certain lines. II is not advisable to fin
ish 1t abruptly by borrowing certain
things from another era, 1t is well to
remember when choosing your pretty /
orGandie whether the tulle picture hat
and chiffon parasol are within reach. I
If they are not. substitute cotton for
silk lining and buy a graceful leshorn
hat wreathed in autumn tinted foliage. /
A plain white madras sunshade. equally /
appropriate for morning use with ging- /
ham froCkS, is quite in keeping.
Too little attention is given TO gloves. /
are especially designed
for evening wear and should never an
pear before the lights are on. Suede .
are best suited TO fine raiment: glace
kid. strictly speaking. for the street.
Chamois ones are intended only for
yachting and athletic purposes.
Character in clothes depends largely .
upon consistency in regard to detail
The well built white satin stock and
elaek patent leather belt singlv win
praise; together they destroy the archi-
tect's plan. Nor does the magic word
character mean following every yararv .
Of fashion. On the contrary. a distinctive
style earned by adopting fetching color
schemes, wearing aesthetic bodices or
tailored skirts not like any other wor1-
ans. is the criterion.
Ultra fashionable women freouertIv /
consult with artists as 20 III. hest
methods for obtaining Individuality in
dress, or preserving the worthy attri-
butte. In such cases the complexion .
hair and eyes determine the prime col-
or. Discretion decides what part the
varying tints shall play. The drab wo-
man viii be told 10 affect mauve. 4
faint shade is for evening wear. 4 more 4