davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Anaconda standard. [volume] (Anaconda, Mont.) 1889-1970, 1899-01-06
Given the Limit.

Tacoma, Wash. Jan. 5.-Edward Garet-
ly, San Francisco crook, who was one of
The Anaconda standard. [volume] (Anaconda, Mont.) 1889-1970, 1899-01-06
A Mounted Police,

Havana, Jan. 5.-General Ludlow is
determined to form a rural mounted
The times., 1899-12-24

rose-colored tulle between the steel en-
broidered black bands. The effect is ex-
ceedingly artistic
The bodice of this up-to-date gown IS
cut in the approved tight form with a
slight point at the front and back The
lining. like that OF the skirt, is of old
rose taffeta, which is covered with nous
seline de sole CT the same shade, and
yelled with rose-colored net and black
steel embroidered tulIe bands. A rich con-
trast is effected by a deep motif of black
velvet hand embroidered with finely cut
Jet which encircles the top Of the corsage
and proves extremely faJtering to the
complexion. In front the velvet appliCa-
tions are combined with tiny black velvet
bowknots, also jetted, and the jet embroid-
cry extends in slender lines to the pointed
waist line, which is finished with a girdle
of folded black mousseline de sole. Narrow
velvet bands support the bodice over the
shoulders and are entirely covered on one
side by a rose garland like that on the
skirt. on the other By a branch of white
and purple orchids made of velvet. Long
white glace gloves are worn and there is a
conspicuous absence of jewelry which. as
the famous author of this beautiful cos
tune declares, would but detract from its
originality.
The Illustration of the background rep
resents an evening costume made by DOu
Get for one of the stars of the Paris stage.
Lace incrustations play an equally impOr
tant part in his second gown but here they
run horizontally around the skirt instead of
vertically. The white and black Combi-
nation is evident in this dainty toilette,
and il proves a worthy exception on ac-
count Of its long transparent sleeves which
The times., 1899-12-24

PARIS, Dec. IA survey OF the re-
markable array Of the seasons rich evening
gowns makes one exclaim involuntarily at
the scantiness of the material above and
the Iavishness below. The modern ball
toilette is nothing if rot decollete; the neck.
back, and shoulders are exposed, and what
has been cut off from the bodice seems to
have been added to the length and volume
Of the skirt hem.
One of Roberts latest models illustrates
the prominent characteristics of the present
fashion and has besides some original nov
elites to recommend The skirt is of the
clinging variety, very long and falling in a
moderate train. The foundation consists OF
rose-colored tafeta and the necessary full
ness is attained by a serpentine Gounce
which reaches its deepest width at a point
somewhat to one side and becomes gradu-
ally narrower toward the back The foun-
dation as well as the fiounce is entirely COW
cred with rose-ColOred mousseliEe &c sole
and this in turn is covered with an all-OyeT
Of rose -colored net inserted at intervals
with bands OF black silk tulie. which takes
the place of ordinary seams in fitting the
all-over tightly to the figure. These bands
are elaborately embroidered with small
cut steel spaugies, which scintiiate with
every motion Of the Wearer. The serpen-
tine founce is put in relief with garland
Of small silk rCses and green velvet foli-
age where it joins to the skirt, and the hem
presents a novelty Of decoration in the
form Of ecru guipure applications set on the
The times., 1899-12-24

will find favor with all who disapprove OF
nude arms. The foundation is of fine white
taffeta, and is made very tight, and with
a flare and train. This is entirely covered
with white mousseline de sole arranged in
fine hand-sewed tucks, which extend from
the waist to the serpentne iounce. where
the material falls in loose folds and is
edged with two very narrow bands OF
black sable. Three rows of white guipure
bands encircle the skirt. The bodice is
likewise made Of tucked. white mousseline
de sole, and is embellished by handsome
fitted appliqued band of white guipure.
Black sable encircles the decollete and
forms narrow shoulder bands. The long
sleeves of white mousseline are tucked hOr-
izontally and are capped with transparent
epaulettes Of guipure, Deep pointed gui
pure cuffs finish the wrists. Around the
neck is worn a stock of white velvet en-
broidered with pearls and edged with black
sable. The coiffure consists of a bunch OF
pink roses with an aigrette Of crystal
Tuckings and COrdings have evidently
come to stay, as they are apparent, and it
astonishing how varied in design and effect
they are In the millinery field, which
now shows a decided leaning toward the
diaphanous stuffs of all kinds tucks have
become absolutely indispensable. and the
very newest models in preparation for the
next spring. and shown to the initiated
under q compact of strict secrecy. are en-
tirely composed Of tucked or folded nous
s6line de- sole and trimmed with the most
ravishing bows of daintly tinted ribbon or
enormous chouX of taffeta while dropping
ostrich plumes again come 10 the fore and
form a most appropriate finish.
FELIN FOURNEBY.
The times., 1899-12-24

imposing presence which made its power
felt in any asaemblage
At the time OF our coming TO Wash
ington, said Mrs Sempls. IN recalling her
White House experiences OF dfty years ago.
my mothers health was too poor 10 sd
nit Of her taking active charge Of the
duties naturally dcvoiving upon the wife OF
the President Ny elder sister and myself
lad our neWly-made homes in Virginia 10
supervise, and my youngest sister was only
a child. Therefore by common consent.
the wife OF our brother Robert became the
mistress Of the White House so far as
the public side OF the life there was con-
cerned. However, my other sister and my
self we're there good part OF the time
This arrangement continued until after
my mothers death. which occurred IN the
White House Then my brother established
himself i'm law practice in Philadelphia and
his wife wished to make her home there
Meanwhile my husband had been appointed
a paymaster in the Navy and as that led
TO his being away from home a great part
OF the time, / came here 10 take charge
OF my fathers household, and remained un-
Ill lS4I.
There were no great social entertain
ments in the White House during my
fathers term. Ny mothers III health and
later her death forbade that For the
most part, we lived openly. Hospitality and
unpreteutiously-i fact. just as We had
been accustomed 20 90 at home in Virginia
Il remember that it was customary dur
ing the sessions of Congress to entertain
guests at dinner in the White House twice
q weel. The former of these was usually
attended bv about twenty prominent public
men, the personal and political friends Of
my father. The second was on a some
what larger scale IT usually included
members of the Diplomatic Corps and the
number Of guests was generally about
forty. But these dinners We're always very
simple affairs and they ended at what
would be considered now a ridiculousIy
early hour.
Then or other eveuiugsit was customary
for the Presidents family to be informally
at home. that is to receive calls from
friends and acquaintance. But even on
these occasions the visitors always de-
parted before 10 O'Clock. At that hour the
White House was closed and the family
retired"
Although Mrs Semple is nearly eighty
years old she takes an active interest in
all current affairs. She receives many in
yitations from people in public life in
Washington and although she if Of course
unable 20 accept any of these. she is very
pleased TO have them as a proof that she
is not forgotten by those who are in and
Of the world in which she was once d
leader
The times., 1899-12-24

dr1n 40 wear. and the dressmakers import
Partisan models 10 copy from though Tor
my part ! prefer the American styles for
our young people
Ny mind this morning was all torn
between charming checked red and black
/ velvet suit ard one in gray cloth for my
Oldest girl Beatrice. Those short piled
chucked velvets. set of with a touch of
! iuT are the most modish choice for cir
about fourteen. but Beatrice tas a mind Of
her own and asserted it like q wise Little
woman in favor of the gray Goth. II is
zinc gray and so simple and yet so timely.
for there is a graceful tunic oveIdress and
its edges are an scalloped with a double
row Of silk cord, falling ups1 plain un-
cerGT5ss. Tie sCallOp finish is given 10
the big collar on the waist that also shows
floral embroidery in shaded gray 81 k. and
I he hat chose in periwinhe blue we've
with twists OF satin antique ribbon and
/ tufL OF plumes by way or o-namentatiou.
Now. / know that sounds most fanciful as
] tell 10. but the impression the gray gown
gives is one OF almost studied simplicity.
for I am rot one of those mothers wLo be
lieve in letting a small daughter exhaust
all The pleasures of elegant and elaborate
dress before she has reached six cen
You are just the woman I want 10 tai
20 then apropos of the sort of fur ] should
! allow n. lNtiFt-l -lCaT-Dll NldIlNe ID wear.
/ said the hostess. She is teasing me TO
give her set of fox or sable things"
Ny dear woman," in opposed Mrs. Van
Knickcrbocber. don't make your child
wOrld-wC-n woman before h=r time. A lit
tie girl should never. never wear anything
but a touch of astrakhau on a richly col
ored wool coat. or stone marten on very
dark one. II you mean to give her fur
pieces then give her "a muh and neck piece
Of grey squirrel while if lis a mufI and
bGa she wants grey 1hibet goat is the
only thing for a child. Keep the costly
furs until the time comes Fer her 10 put on
long dresses and jewels around her neck.
Ny -year-old May, dear blonde child
needed a new wrap for the wedding so /
guided her choice very artfully toward one
of the cIearest pale cocoa br.wn Zibiline
cloth having a novel arrangement of over
tapping cloth bands by way Of trimming on
the skirt and q collar decoration in pale
fawn-tipted Thibet goat fur.
Our choice of a hat 10 go with this
Wahb.ed for a time between a stitched felt
in mushroom shape, SO very much worn
bg sc1n ] girls his winter and a pretty
chap, 10 of brown felt having frilled
brim IF 2 lighter weight o. felt elabOTately
stitched TIE brown hat seemed the more
suitable so we ordered it lined with
pale -a2.ie cf brown surah, fun gathered
and S;rG5d at intervals and then a tufr OF
shades -own pIumes at one side gave the
prope. ouch of elegance"
The times., 1899-12-24

knife. fdTk. spoon. etc, and when a meal IS
over these are washed and set away by
their 6wuers in their special cupboards.
Scraps ere an important item TO the thrifty
Frcner domestic
In England there Is a woman who does
this. and every handsome English house is
built with special houseAeepers' quarters,
a sitting-room and bsSroom~ some Ameri
can houscse are now being provided with
these special two rooms.
My hOusckeeper is OF the typical sort
She is about forty plump, pleasing. and
sc.tled widow who entered service at
siN-f-n as a scullery maid and has worked
up She is addressed by the household as
Mrs Brown, and every afternoon her tea
is s.gved in her sitting room at 4 o'clock
By = maid. She drinks tea and eats her
dinner alone, later, wearing a plain black
silk gown, a muslin wreath cap, and
small lawn apron. Every servant in the
house, with the exception OF the butler, is
under her direct control, and for the good
or evil that every servant does she is
responsible.
"She accepts my directions with a hu-
mility no decayed gentlewoman would
The times., 1899-12-24
MADAME's BUTTERFLIES.
Wears Them. in Flights. on Her
Bull Gowns.


RaII Gowns.
bit of antique history. a touch Of in
diyiduality, the crisp flavor of romance,
are becoming more and more associated
with the ornaments most valued and worn
by fashionable women
This prevailing sentiment is well Illus
trated by lady OF fine taste who has car
ried out an idea wholly her own. she has
always had passion for butterflies. and in
her collection are many Of the rarssl and
most beautifully colored specimens known
to science. Whenever she finds one that
especially suits her fancy or has attached
to it some pleasant association she sends
it to an eEameler in LOaCon, q man re-
puted 10 be the finest artist Of his kind
4 in Europe, and ne makes a fac-simile OF the
specimen. Their fantastic shape and brill
liancy combine to make the butterflies ex-
ceileEt models for this particular kind OF
workmanship. With wonderful fidelity they
are copied, and even the transparent quail
ity of their wings IS effectively simulated
They are finally mounted so that by pinch
ing their wings together the sharp gold
claws beneath fasteu tightly to whatever
they are placed upon. Il would be equally
feasible 10 have them made into hairpins.
bracelet bangles, and clasps for wells.
This particular woman, however. who
has perhaps forty Of these enameIed beau
ties wears them in but one way. as
shoulder clasps on her ball dresses. or
placed diagonGlly across the front to rep
resent a flight of the gauzy Insects She
has one complete set OF yellow buttern es.
and they are held in reserve TO be worn
with soft, white gowns. The largest ones
are fastened on the rignt shoulder. and
from these they decrease in size to the
waist line. Another flight includes every
color Of the rainbow and for them bOdices
Of more sombre hue are chosen as
background Wonderfully effective also
are two very large and quantity formed
sapphire blue ones that were worn as
decorations for a yellow crepe gown.
Quite aside from the artistic effect and
originality OF this decoration. the beauti-
ful creatures themselves have been so
minuJely and accurately copied in the en-
amel work that they are excellent studies
Of the originals. In fact the charming
woman 10 whom they belong often sighs
and vows that her admirers are all butter
fly lovers and she is being continually en-
trapped by the scientific world TO tell the
The times., 1899-12-24
HER DISPOSITION.

Wall of the Young Woman Who
Owns II.
A yisitor-a dear feminine thing with
lot of plumes on her hat and feather boa
around her neck and a general air of leis-
ure and fragrance of yiolets about her-has
been conhding to me, says writer in
"Harper's Bazar," that she fears she is
threatened with a disposition. the same that
is usually referred to as a "gcod disposi-
tion, and she regrets IT,
do not know that it is a woman's privi-
lege TO have a disposition that is adaptable
to circumstance and to people The adapt
able woman ruins her children by overin-
diligence. Sometimes she makes a drunk
ard Of the man she marries. in that she does
not forbid him to become drunkard. The
adaptable woman degenerates into a martyr
when fate showers blows upon her. She
suffers and likes it, and so she indulges
others in their standards, even when she
knows them to be reprehensible There is
a very clear case against the woman with
creasing as class The development of
the intellectual and the physical in my sex
has produced in US an individuality that
will prove invaluable to posterity. Ag
gressiyeness is one of It's features.
Ny visitor who feared for her disposition
tells me that her friends presume TO die
tate about her attire and anything they
happen 10 notice at the moment To be eX-
plict, she said:
There's the bow on the bacl, of my belt
they even dictate about that l so to
rFHL
as l precede her over cross-walk or up
a staircase she says TO me, IN GN that
bow for you when we get home; it's drawn
up too tight in the middle. This seems
kind OF her, and l thank her. When we
reach home she produces her needle and
The times., 1899-12-24
W NEED HoUsEKEEPERs.
American women should Copy Their
English Sisters

American Women should Copy Their
English sisters.
IF you want to know why we have no
irst-class professional housekeepers in this
country" volunteered the importer Of
real live English specimen. "it is because
the American woman is tCo proud and far
too Independent 10 allow an employe to
manage her home That is also the reason
why we with the best ordered most luxu-
rious homes in the world suffer from Grim
inally wastefuI domestic management, and
the worst service of any highly civilized
people. In France or England, where half
as much money is spent, twice the work
fer the servants to do and a third of the
c0nve1ienCes put at their disposal, the
fashionable country or city house is con-
Quoted with noiseless regularity that fills
the American visitor with nothing short
Of amazemCnt. In houses where the in
comes are by no means large a corps OF
finished servants viii be found that only
cur miIlicnaires ever here can afford
Just so long as the American woman
is head Cf a modest household she is the
most aH-round capable housekeeper in the
world; She can face sitter odds and rOut
them more utterly than any French or
English woman living. Ne are the only
women in the world, who, when deserted
ar q critical moment. can cook meal and
yet sir al the head of the table while that
same meal is being served, in a fetching
froek carrying on the conversation as
though nothing had happened. 1t is
charming faculty. but when she is put at
the head Of a corps of twenty servants and
a great country house her system fails.
4 dg fashionable household is just like
a big ship, its got to have a captain to di-
rect its course and an engineer 10 run the
machinery. and in the foreign countries
they realize and provide for this In
/ France il Is usually maitre d'hotel who
shoulders the domestic burden. He has
worked UP in the service and his word is
law to the servants He hires and dis
/ misses them, plans their work, sees that
I IL is done, and he guarantees to keep the
men and maids well fed on a stated allow
auce. The mistress gives him a sum every
month and On this he caters for the ser
wants table that is by no means supplied
from the larder that feeds the family. Ev-
I cry servant is entitled 10 the scraps he or
/ she leaves and has his or her own plate,
The times., 1899-12-24

While the following is not a comDIets
record OF women's gifts for che cause Of
charity during 1929. e. approximatcs the
.naEniaceut sum Of $ls COO goo. or over
st.00o,e00 every MONTH OF this amount.
the largest single sum IS Mrs StonforTs
SIo.0oo.O0o. and Mrs. BradIey's S560g80 IS
the next largest gift
The record OF gifts 20 charity and for
educational purposes by women IN this
country for the year now ending is noble
one
Halt a million dollars. given By Mrs. I.y-
dia Bradley Of Peoria H.. leads the list.
1t was presented last summer to the Brad
ley Polytechnic Institute. aud constituted
her second donation. the first being 4 rift
Of the land on which the institute was
built and the money to build it. That in
VOWED sum approximatiug $250.Coo. In
addition. Mrs. Bradley has given TO Peoria
15T acres of land for a park, she has built
The times., 1899-12-24

One thing noticeable is that the skirts
have taken ca the English length instead
of the French
We began this healthy idea of short skirts
for country life by making them too short
but we have found out that skirts to the
ankle. made very narrow. are the better
length and the more graceful says the
Boston Journal" The most brilliant
stockings will continue to be worn all win
ter for athletic purposes. and il any OF you
are going To make a visit in the country be-
tween now and Christmas. you may beas
this point iu mind.
The smartest girls are wearing red silk
stockings with all their sGitiugs Others
are wearing pIaids in the Scotch c0iors, and
particularly black and red stripes.
WAS Edi,h gIieved when her husband
ran away
eyes; se was completely unnamed
The times., 1899-12-24

show, and with respectfulness no con-
fdential ladys maid ever feels She gets
so a month and an allowance for paying
the servants wages and for catering to
their table, and she it is that sees that no
waste goes on in my house
'With a prayer of thanksgiving and a
quiet mind I can now nightly lay my head
on my pillow, and / don't expect to come
down with nervous prOstration at the end
of the season. The storm and stress OF
housekeeping has passed by me, and no
longer must l coolly count on s2G0 a month
to waste, as most fashionable hOstesses do, ,
no longer do ! haunt intelligence Offices
when dozen engagements press and no
longer DO I sit down TO weep on coming
home from a hard afternoons calling TO
hear that the cook has LEFT a a rage, the
parlor maid has smashed my best bric-a-
brac. and the laundress scorched hole in
my best tablecloth.
But let me tell you what lots OF our
rich women do. They don't mind handing
tileir babies into the care Of kindergarten
ers, but they deeply resent sharing the
command OF their households with a COM
peteut woman. For my part, / think every
big American household where there is a
great corps Of servants should have one Of
these competent women at the head, and
very soon, IN consequence, we would see a
marked improvement in the American
maid servant, for training domestics is one
of the important missions of the English
housekeeper She takes in ignorant girls
and teaches them first TO be competent
kitchen maids and then promotes them as
their value and knowledge increases, and
thus the generation Of English maid sery-
ants the deftest. most accomplished do
mestics in the world, are trained in their
profession. Clever and versatile as the
American woman may be- when thrown on
her own resources, she has no gift for edu-
eating crude talent When she has wealth
and luxury she simply solves the difficulty
by paying fabulous wages. overlooking a
good deal Of incompetence and retiring TO
hotel every now and then TO recover from
the battle with servants"
The times., 1899-12-24

NEW YORK. Dec 22-"It would be 4
true charity. in any kind-heartsa and az
fis,icaLiy Intelligent woman. TO give ne her
best sdvice with regard 10 these samrI "
remarked Aaisie coaziusly. as She iaid q
half dozen bits CT bright silk and Goth and
webs CT lace on the rouua front OF one OF
the big diyan pillows. amid which she sat
costly erthroued
Another gown sou pretty. cztravagaut
vretche" gan the hostess with mock Sc.
verify "a heard you say
yes did say that papa was nearly ar
the end Of my tether The dear old boy has
The times., 1899-12-24
some splendid BEQUESqS
Women Gave Sixteen Millions in
Charity Last Year.

Higher Education Makes tbe strong
est Appeal to Feminine S3u1puthies
Poor ScnmstrcS=es Pare Well
Vast sums Expended for Memoir
iaIS-Ccnerous Henrts nnd Hands.
The times., 1899-12-24
House Waist Wisdom
A Discussion as to the Correct Cut
Of The New Skirts.

How to Dress Small Daughters.
American styles Are Superior TO
All Others ia the Matter of chill
dren's Modes - DeBu;antcs should
Wear CaressinE PinIss and BIuca.
The times., 1899-12-24

thread and reconstructs that bow. So gem
erous of her.
Another time l start out for a walk.
and as it seems to be raining. I raise my
umbrella Soon 1 meet a friend, who says:
What have you got your umbrella up for2
It isn't raining Whereuhon l close my
umbrella and proceed. Shortly I met an
other friend. who says: why, don't you
open your umbrella? It's beginning To
rain. So then / say, Is it,? and up goes
my umbrella
Now this thing. of which the bows and
umbrellas form appropriate illustrations
is becoming very monotonous II demon
strates the mournfuI fact that I am be-
ginning to have a disposition"
Anybody can see the force of the ar
gument.