The San Francisco call., 1899-02-12

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shows long slender vest and choker Of
embroidery or of tucked or of tucked
dotted Swiss
Elbow sleeves set into a long shoulder
seam and trimmed with a turned-back
tucked Swiss cuff at the elbow is a new
and charming effect for summer sleeves.
Long undersleeves of embroidery, close
and smooth, will be worn below an elbow
sleeve of gingham, a bracelet of ribbon,
with a bow. separating the under sleeve
from the upper.
Shirred sleeves are always beautiful and
unusually becoming, as they seem to en-
velop the arm in such a way as to add to
It's roundness and length. The newest
shirred sleeve has no puffings at all, the
gathers turning closely into the one seam
on the inside of the arm. A sleeve tucked
closely and minutely in hoops about the
arm is equally pretty and fashionable,
and is especially nice done in white cam
bric for guimpes
Shoulders in summer gowns are to be
generally left plain, and where tiny ruffles
enCirCle the decolletage they will not en-
circle the shoulders. bertha effect of
embroidery in a fiat incrustation is pref
tily extended over the arms just at the
curve of the shoulder. this appliqued to
the guimpe which is fastened to and is
an integral part of the bodice. Embroid-
cry is appliqued about the waist line to
serve as a belt. and very pretty it looks,
q point here and there extending higher
or lower than the rest. In front it forms
a little corselet effect, and in back are
two little tabs turned downward ever the
fitted skirt in a sort of coattail. 1t is
very new and fetching way to make a
belt.
The winter girl cannot wait for sum-
mer to don the shirt waist. All winter
she has been wearing silk shirt waists.
But the very latest shirt waist for the
house and under the tailor jacket is
made of white satin. They are consid-
cred particularly swell especially If the
jacket worn over them be lined with
white satin. This may sound extrava-
CANT, but the white satin shirt waist can
be cleaned and the satin does not crack
and wear out like taffeta.
The white shirt waists are made perfect
ly plain There should neither be tucks
nor cording.
The white corded silk and bengaline
waists are effective They are made up
simply and are fastened with jeweled or
crystal buttons. The sleeves are made
like dress sleeves and are finished at the
wrist with fiaring cuffs, inside of which
are ruffies of lace There is usually ~ ja-
bot of lace worn with these waists. giving
them a jaunty air. They look at first
rather incongruous with the heavy cloth
gowns but it is fashionable to wear them
and so they are worn.
The most expensive of all waists @re
those of uncut velvet, made with a yoke
and narrow vest of lace, and below the
yoke a trimming on the velvet of
pailettes of different colors and a border
ribbon. These waists have small sleeves,
with pointed cuffs, completely covered with
pailettes and the ribbon trimming. Few
black silk or satin waists are worn eX-
cept by people who are in mourning
When they are worn they must always
have a bright 90 or some lace at the
throat. The satin ones look particularly
well when they have rows of the o)rding
put on the bias. The cording seems to
relieve the dead black of the satin. A
be used; it is too stiff and unyielding-