Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1899-08-19
Hand Made Garments Lead All in
Paris.
PEFrICOATS HAVE FITTED YOKES
Fine Tucks, Lace and Embroidery
Trimmings.
CAMISOLES AND NIGHTGOWNS


Special Correspondence Of The Evening Star.
NEW YORK, August II, 1892
When all is said and done and we have
talked fashion on every bit of outward
adornment dear to the heart of woman We
turn with greater interest to anything new
in the line of those dainty white garments
which go under the most elaborate or sim
pie frocks. And to the feminine fancy there
is rule, more fondness for elaborate
lingerie than there is for ornate gowns.
In Paris, 1t is said, one may buy a few
handsome frocks and make a creditable
appearance for sum within the reach of
| the majority of women who go abroad sim
ply for pleasure. But when it comes to
buying the Partisan creations in under
clothes handmade and trimmed with lace
| the purse of a Fortunatus Is in demand.
Here, where skilled labor is very
pensive, we do not think of handmade gar
ments unless we are at loss to know how
to dissipate money rapidly and in large
quantities, unless we make them our
selves. The midsummer sales soothe the
envious longfngs of the woman who cannot
afford to quite spend a fortune in lingerie,
or. rather, enable her to buy for a small
sum garments which she has not the time
to make usually the means to purchase.
This is, of course, the average woman, who
has family and house to care for and all
the care and labor which that entails. But
for the woman of leisure. who has long
golden hours in which she may read or
sew at her own sweet will there is no oc-
cupation more profitable for the future.
To wear plain lawn or pique frock with
the consciousness that ones lingerie is of
the softest. finest and daintiest is to ac-
complish a step toward supreme self-pos-
| session. One woman I know always de-
clares she has more self-respect when she
wears silk stockings than when she wears
| cotton, and. following out that feeling,
rectitude increases in proportion to the
beauty of ones undergarments.
French Name Is Prettiest.
Now that camisoles, or corset covers in
our homely phrase, are made round
French waists without darts. they are most
easy to fashion and with their alternate
rows of lace ard lawn made in long
straight piece, which Is gathered back and
front and has straps put on as an excuse
for sleeves. they are as charming for piece
work as embroidery. The very latest are
very short, reaching only to the waist, and
there held in place by ribbons run through
beading like the illustration One of the
Quantcst fashioned lately was simply d
piece of very wide embroidery, which
drawn up at the top or edge of the en-
broidery with white bebe wash rib
bon and gathered at the other end into
a wide beading, through which was wash
ribbon about inch wide, which tied in
front and held the little garment in place.
Over the shoulders there were straps made
waist, apology for one, reached very
little higher than the top of the corset
and that is about the extent of height
wanted on the latest camsole. Then there
are waists for wear under thin evening
gowns which have straps at all over
the shoulders, but simply dainty rows
of insertion and lace or muslin and lace,
drawn up about the top and held in place
by a wash ribbon run through a beading
There is another style of these waists
which has little ruffle about the bottom.
This is adopted by slender women who dis
like to have the top of the skirts show;
but as the present slender effect leaves no
excuse for pleat or fold anywhere be-
low the waist line these garments must be
of cobwebby fineness.
Fineness, by the way, is the most desira-
BILE feature In undergarments of all kinds
There cottons fine and soft that they
are quite cobwebby. which still wear ex-
trenleiy WELL and those should be chosen
when fashioning dainty garments. There
are some varieties of long cloth which fall
into the softest folds and which can be re-
lied upon to Guido cambria, dimity and the
various mulls and muslins in the length of
time which they will be free from rents and
holes.
The New Yoke Skirt.
The newest petticoat has a yoke fitted
about the hips, as that in the illustration.
and depending from this rather deep yoke
are ruff1es and frills to the content of the
heart of the wearer and to the discomfort
OF the Iaundress. so 1uH are they-these
petticoats-that it is not necessary to have
them creak with starch: they need only a
llr..e of that overworked and overused ar
tfcle to make them quite as billowy as the
modern skirt will allow. If you indulge in
bargains in the petticoat line, however. be
very careful to see that they are not re-
duced in price, no matter how beautiful
they may be, because they are not the
proper cut to go under the skirts of this
season. To wear under a sheath-like skirt
one of the petticoats of even a year ago is
to quite spoil the effect of the whole. OF
silk petticoats one cannot speak without
filing volume. They have grown so elab-
crate that If one wishes to own one at a
reasonable cost her only. course of action
is to buy a good pattern, purchase the
requisite amount of silk of good quality,
then look about among relics of splendor
now passee and find enough lace to trim
It. OF course, one could own silk petit
coat without having 1t trimmed with lace.