The times., 1899-07-09

the woman who spent nearly all her years
income two months ago for proper spring
plumage. the milliners are bringing out
their midsummer crop Of hats They have
a unique and lovely thing christened Ju-
liet, In honor of Miss Maud Adams, though
it has little outward and visible signif-
canoe with the tempestuous young wife
Of Romso. From a crown and wide brim
Of that sweet new fabric known as open
leghorn, which looks like fine straw lace,
runs garnishment of tinted grain, from
which at some point springs a cluster of
broad and narrow muslin wings so paint
ed as to simulate those of butterflies. The
leghorn brim is twisted and bent 10 har-
monize with the lines of any face, and then
from the rear full tulle strings come down
TO cross under the chin, pass again to the
back of the neck and here tie in a vast and
picturesque bow.
The Juliet has penetrated many ward
robes by sheer force of its airy beauty.
and its influence has been to relegate
many hat and bonnet strings TO the rear
of the head, where the loops and ends
usually form most charming setting for
a fair rosy face.
Very nearly simultaneous with the Ju-
Iet was the advent of the eccentric striped
veil. to which women are, strangely
enough. taking very kindly. At first glance
these masques OF white and black, with
their fine satin or thread lines crossing the
thin fabric at intervals of an inch. would
seem more deadly in their influence on
eyes than the Objectionable dot; in real
ity, the line is no more destructive than
the close-set velvet periods, and yet, more
curiously still, quite as becoming TO most
faces.
There is no stability in the extremes of
fashion. and already women are sheering
gradually off from the rocks and pitfalls
to beauty that lie in the path of the very
lose-fitting skirt and the beautiful but
impossible lace frock. Lace is as keenly
loved as ever. for evening gowns particu-
larly, but ii is laVished as a trimming on
a basis of organdie. embroidered muslin,
and the ever lovely liberty satin.
The extreme of smartness and luxurious
loneliness for an evening toilet is achieved
by the painted muslin dress, served up with
a delectabe sauce of rare Duchess, Breton.
or even blonde lace the other extreme of
sweet shepherdess-like simplicity is at
tained by that blue-white India muslin
which is as soft as chiffon and is treated
with hand-worked, lozenge-shaped dots,
each set in tiny circle. The debutantes Of
this summer (and there are plenty Of
smart girls who have accepted the new ro-
ton of coming out at their parents or
friends country houses) viii dance their
first formal dance in dresses OF this de-
scription, showing not 4 thread Of lace.
but all the founces and edges everywhere
completed with deep leaf-point pinking,
carefully. and, to tell the truth, most ex-
pensively, buttonhoied, every inch by
hand. The debut trousseaux of fair Miss
Crosby and Mrs. Levi Morton's youngest
daughter are wonders of the finest needle
work. with lace only occasionally appear
ing. and all the little muslin dresses are cut
with small trains and short sleeves. for II
you have pretty arms prepare to show them
now.
That boon OF the thin woman, the lace
or full wrinkled transparent sleeve to the
wrist, is about 10 be snatched from her
and a study in soft frills and pufts on tht
shoulder only remains.
Very young ladies have given motive
power to a possible bangle craze by wind
ing round their white forearms fine golC
chains strung with many varieties of sou
yenirs. trinkets, little gold pigs, and bun
MES and cats heads, which, with lewcleC
hubs and small dried flowers in crysta
cases, is the latest type of popular trif'
and our latest recruit 10 the foreign no
bility.
Miss Julia Grant has made fashionable
again the Catacuzene bracelet When th,
distinguished mother OF the young prince
10 whom Miss Grant Will plight her trotl
was. some twenty -odd years ago, in Ameri-
ca. she wore golden bands on her forearm
connected by chains, and now the pretties
custom is TO wear a thread of pearls o
emeralds below the elbow, very fine cir
Gle of diamonds near the shoulder. anC
unite the circles By hair-ine chains o.
gold. punctuated at intervals with small
jewels. This arrangement, by the way. il
a great improvement on the two solid gold
en- manacles that We knew TWO decades
ago.
Very latest among the discoveries Of al
effective and popular evening color 70
silk or satin is garter blue. This is tn
exact tint of the broad blue ribbon tha
Queen Victoria wears when she dons III
famous order. and the bellies who are no
debutantes and the bellies who are hand
some matrons wear the garter blue Il
trained gowns that are besprinkled wit
iudicious seed pearl embroidery A yer
regal sort of costume is indicated in one Q
the illustrations this week, and this is
garter blue satin cut with an ample train
In front a breadth is slit open TO the knee
10 show an underdress OF white upon whic
a curtain Of pale blue chiffon falls, and
foot trimming of mingled blue and whit
ostrich tips appears as a ruche.
A typical cloak OF the season is sketch
ed with this pearl embroidered gown.
is a circular of white satin, its edge
shaped in large shallow scallops edge
with dark brown marabout and a dee
friIi of lace. A hood that falls from tn
neck of the cloak is made all OF lace an
brown marabout. Such are some of tn
splendors Of our merchant princesses.
Well open, in a simple curve. is th
proper shaping. back and front. for a
evening dress body, and in the buildih
of bodices nothing IS more justly popula
with the slim women than the front tha
IS drawn in full horizontal wrinkles acros
the bust. OF course, very soft satin an
pliable muslins only are adapted TO thi
style. and the finish for the fullness
three smart clusters of blossoms fastene
one at the waist. one at the bust. and on
on the left shoulder Evidently every et
fort is being made TO replace, by som
equally seryiceable device, the pouche
bodice front thar women almost refuse I
relinquish.
A fan-tailed pigeon is what you shoul
wear IL your hair at the country dances
1t is a decoration easily secured by III
simple method OF tying scarf OF perfect
fresh. crisp white tulle in a large wild
winged bow. and fastening it. at any po
you please. in your hair by aid of a iewel
headed hatpin. In the evening also, ever
woman who keeps abreast with the mod,
pins her little fan 10 her belt to the rigt
side. First she makes a small perfectl
fat satin ribbon rosette with a bright imi
tation gem in its centre, and f.om tn
beneath hangs a fouT-inch long strap {
ribbon. on the end OF which is fastened
gold safety slip ring. The ring. Of cours
secures the fan when the wearer does M
need il. and IL is perfectly easily detache
from the ring when she does.