The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1899-10-08

dress Of cloth, velvet, silk or crepe De
chine, Is not unusual among the new
models Of dressy gowns, and is especial
ly effective In heavy lace. 1t Is cut out
Of the all-over lace, shaped O. very little
in circular form, SO 1t needs little, II any,
fullness at the top, and finished with
narrow edge to match or a plating Of
net edged with narrow ribbon. Rich,
heavy cream lace forms q finish for
dressy wraps, falling like a fiounce from
the edge, over plated frill Of chiffon
matching the garment in color. Lace in
sertions are applied to cloth as We'll as
the thinner materials Of summer, and ap-
pliques of lace in cream, white or black
are everywhere. For waists. lace designs
are applied to taffeta silk, which Is cpt
out over-not under-the lace and finish
ed around the edges with O. small silk
cord matching the silk in color. This Is
used in sort Of open braided design
filing In between the lace medallions,
and the entire bodice Is covered with this
work. Another effective decoration for
vests and yokes of taffete silk waists Is g.
leaf design, cut out Of the same silk and
applied on white satin. In pink, blue or
yeilow the effect is very pretty. The
leaves are finished, like the lace, with
silk cord matching the silk in color, and
some Of the open spaces are filled In
with an openwork stitch of embroidery
silk. also the same color. Cordings ana
feather stitching worked In on the ma
chine are also a feature or decoration,
with the hemstitching and various open
work insertions put In by mana SO popular
during the past season.
In new materials crepons In beautlful
colorings figure largely in the shops, but
are rarely seen among the imported
gowns Cloth in light colors and velvet,
either plain or closely covered With white
pin spots and a sort of a wool material
resembling serge with little roughness
on the surface, are the leading faorlcs
for winter gowns. with, chiffon lace, ana
elegant broeaded silks for evening wear
Hand painting is an element of decora-
ton on the new silks, and We find them
I'm bright tints covered with conven-
tiona1 design of white silk cord, filled
in with the pointing In delicately shadeo
tirts Hand painted flowers IN cloth ana
velvet, outlined with gold cord, are ap-
piled to heavy lace, forming the over
dress of an elegant evening gown. tea
roses with delicate green leaves oeihs liio
special design.
SuangIed gowns seem to have gained ia
yor If only to accentuate the extravagant
tendencies of the day, for they are more
gorgeous than ever The latest is cos
tune of Renaissance lace in cream. and
rather coarse pattern, eiaoora1eiy
spangled with jet following the lace de-
sign, and made up over white satin.
Fringe, which has been tentatively on
the list Of trimmings for year, seems
to have an established place this season,
and YOU find 1t in cream color combined
with cream lace for skirt trimming,
In all colors, used In various ways ana
particularly as a finish for SASH ehds,
and soft ends of rosette bows IN SILK ana
panne which are one OF the pretty
touches on the new bodices put on at one
side midway between the neck and beit
The first model illustrated is valet gown
showing the new overdress with tucks
and a box plat In the back; the VIDE
draped belt of satin and the plated
bolero, with a stylish bow at one side OF
the front. A gray crepe de chine, WIN
cream lace applique trimming, mas DOW
of pale blue panne at one side, the ends
finished with lace. novelty IN lace
gowns shows a reverse order OF things
"a the lace is yelled with ermine chiffron
edged all around with ermine.
The draped effect around the shoulders
is also one of the new and effective styles
A gown Of pale yellow tan cloth SHOWS
an elaborate trimming OF Russian lace
matching the cloth In color. Another
model in cloth is carried out in two shaues
of gray, the vest in front and " at the
black velvet. The tiny tucks at the back
of the overdress are one OF the special
features. stitching is the finish, and the
folds over the shoulders may be or clotn'
velvet or silk, as you fancy. The double
skirt and stylish coat, with lace and sat
In revers. are the features of second
gray gown and stitching is again the
finish costume in tan cloth with dou-
bile skirt effect around the foot has
velvet polonaise in a darker shade OK
tan edged with narrow bands of sable
The woke is of cream lace crossed in
waved lines with narrow stitched bands
of pale blue taffeta. Wedgwood blue is
the tint of another cloth gown trimmed
with circular bands Of white silk edged
with roses of blue stitching. A more SIM
pie costume in navy blue wool, with white
pin spots, shows an overdress opening In
front and rounding UP to half the length
Of the skirt in the back. A narrow piping
Of white silk finishes all the edges, and
the rest is of pale blue panne crossed
with narrow bands of embroidery In gold
thread with soft colors.
In separate waists white seems to head
the list, which is long one, and there is
one of white taffeta with bands Of white,
stitched with blue for finish and tucked
turquoise blue silk filing in at either side
Of the front the stitched white band
forming the edge.