The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1899-11-25

The owner of this delightful lingeri
eonfided to me that all of her new
skirts, both in silk aKkl linen, were made
in princess form. They end, or rather
begin, at the bust line, where they arr
finished off with wide beading, rur
through with light colored satin rib
bon. The fastening is done with hook.
or small fiat pearl buttons, either
straight down the back or under both
arms A silk lacing cord may be use6
in place of hooks or buttons. The new
princess underskrts naturally serve as
skirt and corset cover in one and lend
a most desirable Sfnoothness to the
tight gowns which are worn over Them
.
One of the prettiest extra waists !
have seen this year was planned for a
debutante by some one who evidently
understood the merit of combined now
city and simplicity. First, the founda-
tion of hard finished silver gray taffeta
was made smooth fitting, excepting
that it was pUckered into the belt in
stead of being adjusted with darts. Tho
fastening was invisible down the center
! of the back the shoulders were wide
and the whole body of the waist was in
three pieces. The sleeves We're long and
smooth fitting. Cut exactly by the same
/ pattern was a covering of white NOUS
seline de sole that had before cutting
been tucked closely in tucks a quarter
of an inch wide. The novelty consist
ed in the scaly effect that was obtained
by tacking the tucks up to the stitch
ing that formed them at regular inter-
ValS quarter of an inch apart. The
catching up, of course, had to be. done
by hand. The needle passed under the
tuck just at the row of stitching, then
passed over the tuck The silk thread
was then drawn tight, catching the
tuck up in loops. The result was some
what similar to shocking, but far more
original A white satin stock and a
narrow belt of rattlesnake skin COM
pleted the bodice.
Open work is strong feature of
high-necked bodices Sometimes the
front of a waist, loosely made but
without fullness, is in as many as five
thlcknesses, all cut in spaces to show
some part of each successive layer.
Motifs of lace are interspersed and in
addition to this the outer sheath is
handsomely embroidered. Filmy dra-
perry encircling the shoulders is very
popular, and so is silver and gilt thread
embroidery. The latter is exorbitantly
high-priced when bought ready made
but can be easily wrought at home. A
charming little model in changeable
white and apple green taffeta is en-
bro1dered with purple clover. silver
grasses and clover leaves in their nat
ural tint. With it is worn a rosy pur-
plelsh collar and girdle of sOlft velvet, |
and it is supplied with a detachable !
sleeveless boIero, made in cloth Of sill |
yer. Dripping down, as it were, from
the girdle at one side is jabot of |
green and mauve chiffon.
.
Quaint old fashions for afternoon
and evening wear are being revived |
with wonderful success, and not the |
least among them is the modest fichu |
of soft mule knotted at the bust and !
left hanging in two long graceful ends
that NAV fall to or below the knees.
A fit accompaniment to the fichu is the
sweet frilled bebe hat, that lends such
an innocent childlike air to a pretty
face of whatever type.
An old-time fad which has been in
disuse so long that it reappears now
almost in the guise of new idea is
that of hand-painting evening gowns.
The work, it goes without saying must
be done by5 an efficient artist. A cos
tune that has lately been made by
Felix for Miss Florence Fox of Phila-
delphia is a fair example. aofswhat can
be done in this line. The gown has a
long, tight princess tunic made of
renaissance and chantilly lace in cream
and white, and incrusted into the lace
are exquisite. hand-painted roses, ex-
ecuted on white silk and held in place
by means of white satin
ribbon At the back the tunic is split
open to let out a fan-plaited demi train
Of mousseline de Sole and a triple
plated flounce of mouSSeline de sole
finishes the bottom of the dropskirt.
The bodice is tight and sleeveless and =
aut rOundly decollete over the shoul r.
lers. The painting was done by a well :
Known Chicago girl, Teana McLennan
nan has for the last year been in Paris,
where she will remain until the latter
part of December.
Hand-pained flowers, cut out, and p
lppliqued to tulle form striking decora- J
ions for evening gowns. The lightness !
# the tulle 6. es a very natural solid
ty to the flowers, White tulle. for in
tance, is placed over delicate Iflauve {
allie. The underskirt is tight, but the l
ulle is gathered Trailing down the
ront Of the skirt are large, painted I
ortensias, with long, slender green
caves. They are appliqued to the tulle
With long and short stitches of silk
bread, matching the tints of the paint d
1g. The cuiraSs-shaped corSage is I
Ow-necked, two round scallops turn
lg uD over the bust leave heart
haped point between them. a narrow t
uching of green tulIe borders the de- t
ollete. The shoulder straps are made d
single strands of large pearls, and a Ii
og collar of pearls is worn around the 1
eek. On the bodice the same design +
hortensias is carried out. The wide h
irdle is made of gold-colored mirrored
anne, and the long sleeves, smoothly ]
on to the form, are of pearl
olored suede. The gloves are fastened G.
t the wrist with four tiny black but
ms.
Flowers embroidered in tinted silks a
lake a very accepted substitute for II
and painting, and are safer for the h
mateur to venture upon. A beautifully P
dinner gown in rose col r,
red faille has a tight skirt made with
emi train. The skirt is embroidered !,
own both sides of the front with large "
zed pink and white roses, mingled q
ith dull green foliage. The cors3ge is is
Louis XVI coat, with rounded tails G.
nd an open front, strapped together 1e
18th folds of-rose satin velvet, caught "
)wn at either side with Dresden but +,
ms. Showing beneath these straps is =
fulled front of rose moUsSeiine Gle
lie. The bodice is lOw-aecked and fin z
hed with a drawn-down fichu Of ros -
ousseline de sole, over a bertha of
aited white liberty silk Pink and !,
hite roses are embroidered down the "
onts of the coat, and all the way eI
ound the habit back. The sleeves e.
ach only to the elbow, where they are I'd
lished with a double-plaited pink and
hite frill. Long white gloves are Ia
Orn, tucked UP into the sleeves. VI
.
Velvet is in prime favor for visiting
WINS, and is uniquely combined with sa
manner of pretty fabrics Panne IS sc
fected. even more than velvet by
ose who can afford so elxuriors a
shion. 1t is slick and ripping as ..e