The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1899-11-11
FLYING VISIT TO OLD SPAIN.
V4AIOUS ROUTES FROM THE
UNITED STATES.
fur Correspondent Goes First to Opot-
TO, Portugal, the Manchester of the
Anertnn Peninsula, Where the Fa-
msuS sport" Wine as Made.


msus sport" Wine is Made.
Especial Correspondence of the Journa
and Courier.1
OpoIto, Portugal, Oct. 27.--In thu
words of some forgotten poet,-'Th(
Gust is old upon my sandal-shoon ant
still | am pilgrim. But let us sub
stltute the plural for the personal pro
noun, hoping that the readers who have
followed me over the length ant
breath of Spanish-America will accom-.
pany me on a flying visit to Spain, to
see how the poor old mother country is
bearing UP under her losses.
In choosing ones route to Spain there
Is less latitude for selection than to any
other seaboard country of Europe
American, German, French and Portu-
gese lines, with their various European
connections, make the journey from
New York more or less directly, most of
them taking you hundreds of miles out
If the way and Of course charging ac-
cordingly. Thus, if money is mo OBJ
ject, you may go by the Red Star line
In the Well-known "St. Louis" or "St.
Paul" passage sixty dollars to South
ampton. AT the English port you take
a Royal Mail packet to Lisbon
forty dollars more, plus three dollars
war-tax. Add twenty dollars or so for
stewards fees and the usual inciden-
tails of long voyage, and the cost foots
up to at least one hundred and twenty
five dollars. And then you are only on
the edge Of the Promised Land, where
fIA In at,,o 1@o e.
body knows that the expense and vex-
alton of European travel Is vastly
greater than In our own country. The
Mediterranean service of the North
German Lloyd is manifestly not for the
scribe who. according to Job, wander
eth abroad for bread" Passage on the
KAISER Wilhelm" or "Furst Bismarck"
from New York to Algiers or Genoa is
one hundred and seventy-five dollars;
and you are left to get into Spain the
btst way you can. The Hamburg
American line is dearest of all--three
hundred and fifty dollars per capita in
the "chambre de luxe" to one hundred
dollars for the fourth berth In the poor
est cabin from New York to Madeira or
Gibraltar. BY the Insular Navigation
company you go direct from New York
to lisbon for seventy-f1ve dollars, war;
revenue tax added. Of the rival mer-
Its, or dement's, of the various lines we
will not speak, this being no ''advertis-
ing, mt dunn" For reasons of my own
chose the comparatively unknown Lin.
ha da Vapores Portuguezes-by no
means the best, nor yet the poorest, it's
rate OF passage being ninety dollars
from New York to the Portuguese coast.
Several considerations Influenced the
choice. First, the little travel just now
to Oporto, on the heels of the bubonic
plague, leave plenty of state-rooms for
the few passengers, without the neces-
sity of doubling up" Having decided |
to visit also Spain's twin-sister (without |
which Spanish tour would be but half |
it is wiser to beard the
dreaded bacillus at once in its den. |
Besides, the earlier in autumn one trav- |
els through the northern portion of the |
Tberian Peninsula, the better in point of |
its exact center, ly-
ing in the same latitude as Boston, you
knew, with equally cold winters.
Before starting on this journey, wher-
sver it may lead, you cannot possibly
l1NSSt cl OOltuL w SICdtOl lulQit dQNdu-
age than in square of parchment
rom the United States state depart
l.ent, bearing a more or less correct de-
'cription of your age, complexion,
weight and inches 1t not only shows to
Ill the world that you are proud citi-
zen Of the Land of the Free, and there
ore to be respected, but you will need
for Identification in many banks and
,ost-otices; and If the worst betde,
'our friends may require it in claiming
FOUR corpus. Notwithstanding the
oval decree of So, releasing foreigners
nterlng Spain from showing passport,
he stranger is generally expected to
AVE one: and in remote provinces of
he peninsula is even likely to be locked
ID If he cannot produce one. OF course
he American consul would soon get
ou out of limbo and raise O. rumpus,
efore which the dons would tremble III |
heir shoes, but it is much less trouble
ONE and expensive to attend to the
natter in due form at home. In both
pam and Portugal the strangers pass
ort takes the place of the natives ce-
ula, or authoritative paper of identif-
alton, without which both are regard
1 as trarnps and vagabonds.
Crossing the ocean on a Portuguese
eamer one is certain to get his mon
VS. worth in the way of variety. A
Tider contrast can hardly be imagined
lsn between the floating palaces of the
merican and German lines, with their
tshionable crowds and elaborate dress
.g for dinners, and life aboard a YES
i Of the Linha Portuguezes. How
yer. the trip is not long, and we who
re fresh from the wilds of Spanish
merca feel quite at home amid jib- ,
aring tongues and odors of grease and
lrlic. The captain sets at the head of
IS table and treats passengers as hon :
ed guests at private banquet, while s
ON stem to stern Of the ship the ex-
,gera ted politeness of the Latin pre-
ills, down to the bare-footed fellows
no scrub the deck and yank their
owsy forelocks whenever a petticoat
)pears. Barring northern prejudices
,ainst certain oily and odoriferous
of the menu, the danger is
stuffne, not straving, with five meals
II diem. AT a, m. coffee is brought 4
your berth, with bread and fruit. 7
at 10 o'clock, is served in r
veral courses, with good Oporto wine
thout extra charge. Dinner, at p. !
!, is the great event of the day, a =
Ill a. H.. y