The record-union., 1899-10-15

other material into bodices with which
the merest color-connection is sufti-
cient, and usually where q gown has
guimp yoke or vest of certain fab
ric the sleeves now match that part
Of the waist in kind
Many of the English tailors are lin
ing serge and chevfot skirts with
plaided silks-not the clan tartans, but
patterns showing very artistic color
blending. These gay plaids look we'll
beneath the skirts of costumes of fawn,
gray, black or dark green cloth or 9TH
er wool fabric. The inevitable dust
ruffle to match is set close to the hem
on the inside.
Increasingly great is the rage for
lace appliques in black, white and deep
cream color, used on elegant gowns,
capes, jackets, fancy waists, and in
high-class millinery for the winter.
Adjustable guimpes, yokes, plastrons,
revers and collars are made of guipure
in Honiton, Venetian or Flemish de-
signs. Very fine old-fashiOned thread
patterns in cream color are also laid
over velvet cape collars and bands
both wide and narrow; some Of which
are used as borders to revers, collars
and spreading bretelles on elegant
gowns.
A fashionable tailor exhibits, among
other things, a straight ugly sack coat
of handsome Roman blue Goth, with
H.. I~.0 i11c
check in cream and brown, with turn
down cape-collar of the same material.
There are turn down collars on many
of the tailor jackets and redingotes.
but those in standing form are, as
rule, very high and fiaring.
The craze for rich trimmings en- ap-
plique has reached even to these effects
in fur Of various kinds. New garnitures
for capes, jackets and redingOtes show
seal, otter, beaver, Persian lamb, etc,
cut up into odd-shaped bits, and in
termingled with applique devices in
silk cord or chenille Costly fur in
volume is always regal and distinctive
in effect, and fur as a bordering forms
an elegant finish to gown or wrap; but
to cut up handsome plets into insignift-
cant scraps seems a sad waste of ex-
penSive material.
Among the comfortable things in
lingerie for cool-weather wear are
short under petticoats and drawers
with balbriggan tops and ruffied edges
Of tucked and embroidered camprlc or
muslin, and long underskirts of fine
French flannel, with flounces of silk
set one above the other on the lower
half of the skirt.
Earrings of every shape and va
riety, from the gypsy hoop style set
with diamonds and other rare gems, to
the simple pearl and onyx screw pat
tern, are again displayed by the jew
elers. but it is to be hoped that this
does not indicate return to the use
of so absurd an ornament.
Handsome autumn tailor costumes
are being made in Roman, swallow and
silver blue, beech brown and deep We
netian green ladies' cloth, with long.
close princesse backs in which the CEN
ter seam is omitted The fronts are in
jacket form, and the entire gown is
finished with machine stitched straps
of cloth of a deeper shade. The only
additional decoration is the wide
Robespierre ruff set into the open
fronts of the jacket, which is made of
heavy silk, closely plated.
The costly garnitures of real lace on
the superb fur capes and coats for next
season are superhuons. Nevertheless
the most expensive model wraps of sa-
BILE, seal otter chinchilla, Persian lamb,
etc, show lofty collars Of matching
fur with lace fraises inside and satin
faced revers covered with the same
rich decoration. which may be real
point, Honiton, duchess, Flemish or
any other rare and costly design