Daily inter mountain. [volume] (Butte, Mont.) 1881-1901, 1899-09-09
ELLEN 0SB0RN'S LETTER

New York. Sept. 6.-Fashions are as
uncertain as the stock market. On one
thing only will the prophet stake her
fame: The %swathing skirt VIII prove
truly fin de steele. 1t will last until the
incoming of the year 1900.
In the simple days of spring and fail
openings fashion changed but twice a
year. Now that luxury and undue ex-
travagance have provoked the bringing
fOrward of cottons in January and vel
vets n furs in August, We have a con-
tinued evolution of styles week by week
throughout the season. That the adop-
ton of the modes of the empire must
prove the next radical departure, every
II who knows the laws of clothesland
has been aware since last winter. Pre-
cisely on what date feminine anatomy
will undergo a short-waisted TRANSFORMED
ton no one even yet would commit her
self to proclaim.
Empire hats and empire evening gowns
we had in the spring. Empire cloaks,
high-girdled under the arms, dominate
September's importations. Nevertheless
the autumn tailor dress choppeth not nor
changeth: as it was in the spring SO is
1t noW-lOng-Waisted, tight upOn the
hips, With perhaps a thought more spread
from the knee line outward, but lying on
the floor in a train of great dimensions.
Smoky gray, nut brown, cleaning cop
per, bronze yellow or dashing auto red
are the tailor gowns cofors: dull and
brilliant as the moods of autumn. Rough
as the ways of virtue. yet silky soft as
swans down are its materials. Heavy
cashmeres follow every line of the body.
Shaggy cameIs hairs bristling with furi-
Gus nap hold it in embrace as love-like
and warm.
The NEST novel Of the autumn stuffs
are ring-streaked and spotted. Pied
with dots are rough cloths and smooth
cloths, satins and velvets: dots transpa-
rent, through which a silk lining may
glimmer with stealthy seductiveness;
dots shining and damask-cheeked, as if
the Trojan Paris had flung showers of
golden apples at the dress of beauty; dots
long-haired and o~bstreperous, making
bunkers on the fair green.
Crossbarred and streaked With blue and
yellow are lustreless lead-gray fabrics.
Dark, rich Egyptian reds are banded
broadly with plum purple or black or
g~ray-green. Pale gage color is barred
and spotted with amber and blue and
gold.
For the making. YOU may nave the sim
pie. graceful. perfectly hung tailor skirt
entirely plain. as in days of Old. IN condi-
ton only of sticking to unpatterned
WeaVes. The crossbarred and dotted
fabrics demand a long tunic or a princess
robe backed upon a SHAPED undertlounce
of different material. No law of clothes
land is more infiexible than that which
DEGREES the contrasting of fine, satin
finished cloths with the hairy, shaggy
novelties.
The tunic is slashed recklessly in deep
points that come, sometimes, almost to
the waist line, and that cape as if the
robe We're too narrOW-as often it is-to
allow for the spreading of the under-
draperies. 1t is trimmed with stitching;
or, if with braid, that is set on more ,
simply than in the summer and fastened
with visible stitching.
She bodice of the new tailor dress has
a deep yoke, and its shoulders are ar
ranged, not to give the %sloping. Trelaw-
ney effect. cut. like the yoke. TO increase
the length of the upper lines of the body.
II the dress is made with a coat, that has
two big revers faced with white MORE
silk and folding back away from the
shoulders. The neck finish is the usual
garrote collar and d fluffy mass of bright
colored silk and chiffon.
One of the few costumes made in New
York for Miss Julia Dent Grant to add
to her Paris-built rousseau is a tailor
gown of tea-colored cloth, whose skirt
has it's pleats at the back brought up to
within a few inches of he waist and then
stitched fiat, giving a graceful line and
just an indication of fullness. The hem
and the seams of both sides Of the front
are stitched, the seam in the middle of
the back also. The odd eton coat has
big revers decorated with sprays of fine
lace applique, and is edged all about with
rich white armure ribbon, from under
which peeps a narrow white silk fringe.
Miss Grants success at Newport might
have been more marked, by the way: and
the alliance with the ''black prince as
Cantacuzene is called, might be more
popular.
Another dress for Miss Grant has a
long, tight tunic of beetle-green cloth,
finished with close-set rows of scarlet
stitching. The underskirt OF dark green