davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1899-01-08
A W0MAN's WOMAN.
With the "New Woman" There Has
Come a Change With Those
Not New.

From the New York Sun.
"One hears a good deal about the new
woman" said a Washington woman who
has had long and varied social experience
in England and America, but 1t seems to
me that the women / meet to-day are very
much like the women l knew fifty years
ago. There may be more who are highly
educated. or Self-supporting; but the we'll
bred woman doesn't talk entomology or
Greek roots or shop in society, and l can't
tell a pretty girl who knows about bugs
from the one who doesn't. The brilliant
woman and the attractive girl in society
are very much what they always were. /
fancy. One must get behind the scenes
to recognize the modern woman's peculiar
tiles. Entomology and a salary may affect
her private life.
But l do notice in society one sign that
women are changed. and I'm delighted with
the change. When l was a girl the half
hour or whole hour after dinner was the
abomination Of desolation. The men stayed
adjourned to the drawing rooms and mani
testify did penance for their sins. Some of
them tried to be amiable and kept UP IN
openly. frankly bored. and the advent OF
the men was hailed with undisguised joy
and relief. Now things. are altogether
be sure, the men often leave the table with
the women. but even when they don't
there is no dull hour for the women. Wom-
Ell are LHOTe luitTeSttt III Cdtu III lIidE
they used to be. or else they are more in
~terested in themselves. Whichever 1t is,
the result is the same-increased anima-
ton and fluent conversation. When II num-
Der of women are together nowadays they
seem to have a most hilarious time. and
conversation never flags for a moment. 1
suppose ii is because there are more inter-
ests In the lives of women than there
were in old days. One doesn't heed to
though those staple topics are still hard
worked, 1 notice. I've often seen a look of
actual regret on the Homen's faces when
1t is a wholesome sign. A woman's woman
is a much finer product of civilization thar
a mans woman. The men are SO easily
deceived, poor things"
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1899-01-08
EI paxrpLL vsa.al

lace. The front opens over a vest Of cr1mp-
ed white mousseline de sole. over white
satin. The folded collar is made of lace
and has a jaunty bow cravat under the
is of cloth, while the lower part from the
elbow down Is of velvet.
Muffs will be worn far into the spring
and will be made to match the costume.
and a little smaller in size than those OF
fur which we see this winter. The hats
also are made In the same color and often
of the same material as the costume with
which they are worn.
Milliners are slower in divulging secrets
han dressmakers. but from shadows cast
before coming events: the tr%icorne. the
borgere and the menuier and other forms
which have been found so becoming. will
be initiated in straws or white felt or cloth.
which also will constitute many new hats
of the transitional period before the styles
for warmer weather are absolutely de-
clared. H
That the fancy transparent materials
will continue through the spring and sum-
mer is manifested in the double width
grenadines and organdies which the manu-
%facturers nave turned out. This means
a continuation of lace and ribbon trim
mings and gay-colored Innings Of soft
| silks and cottons.
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1899-01-08

the one of the hem Of the skirt. Under
meath this bolero Is an open, loose silver
gray ~taffeta, covered with small tucks. The
blouse extends into a high standing collar
of most modern form, and Is slashed in
front and back, showing another collar
sole of a lighter shade of red.
slight fulling at the shoulder. They are
decorated with rows of purple stitchinGs
and are cut in one piece with the small
fiaring cuff. which ends In a point over
the hand and is bordered with gray and
black braid. A rounded belt of pwple
cloth, covered with rows of purple Stitch
ings. holds the fullness of the silver-gray
blouse in front.
The responsibility for the untidy length
of street-sweeping skirts is laid upon the
elogated basques of coats and Jackets.
A short walking skirt would certainly look
out of place and inartistic under these new
nut-cf-door coats. One fashion follows an
other and thus came the dip" in skirts.
which Is regretted. though admired.
There certainly Is no evidence of shorten.
ing either the long skirt or long basque,
according to the newest spring models.
The combination of cloth with velvet
| MORE or rich satin will be used as much
as ever for the early spring. One beauti-
full gown for visiting or elegant street
wear shows this favorite arrangement to
best advantage.
The upper part of the long skirt is Of
mauv cloth. shaped like a tunic, to which
terie, a fiounce of rich purple. velvet. The
coat extends into a very long pointed
basque behind. and is also made of dark
mauve cloth, with a wide flounce of velvet,
| which also forms the high flaring collar
lined on the inside with yellow guipure
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1899-01-08
Copyright, 1893, by g. M.Balcwfn

VIENNA. Dec. E.-Fashion has indeed
accomplished wonders in daring color COM
binations. Hardly have conservative eyes
become used to the greens and blues, law
enders and rose promiscuously thrown to-
gether and worn SO much and so long that
our mothers, in whose youthful days such
colors were deemed appropriate only for a
FOOLS attire, had ceased to throw up their
hands in horror. when a new blending Of
shades again Jars upon their optic nerves.
This time it is purple and red. True. that
other colors are employed to make the
combination harmonious-and that the
shades as yet are carefully Selected-but
red and purple must stand out promi-
nently, to be in accordance with the latest
fashion edicts.
Our illustrated model complies with this
afternoon gown made of rich dark, pur-
pie cloth, woven with a tiny shining thread
which gives 1t a peculiarly glittering effect,
as IL 1t were covered with finest SPIDERS
web.
The skirt is in serpentine form and has
widening f1ounce is attached under rows
of s%titchings done in purple silk. The hem
is accentuated by a narrow border, consist
ing of a fine strip of red cloth between
two rows of black and silver-gray silk
braid. The bodice is particularly artistic
and bears full evidence OF the most re-
fined taste and cut Of the dressmaker.
II the skirt, II is lined throughout with
purple taffeta. The back is made like a
Jacket, tight-fitting and finishing below the
waist line in a graceful basque. The front
stimulates a novel bolero with rounded
revers, edged like the collar and scallops,
with a band Of red cloth and braid like
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1899-01-08
FEAST AND REST.
Just Before Retiring-Not Neces-
sarily Mince Pie.

Thin women are not oftener the victims
of dyspepsia than their stouter sisters. al
though it is the case that. as a rule. they
seem to require more rich. nourishing food.
Nervous, energetic women. who go. go, go.
are the thin women of to-day, women who
retire with their brains still actively alert,
but with poor. weary. fagged-out bodies.
says the St. Louis Democrat. You need
not talk rest to them; they can no moro
rest than can quicksilver. nor will they
sleep one hour later in the morning. or
take a light. nourishing breakfast in bed.
maybe they will fall into the nice. cosy
habit of eating before retiring. Man is the
only animal who does not lie dow with
a full stomach-not necessarily of welsh
rarebit or mince pie-but something easily
digested and blo~od-producing. The nervous
til the very instant of her retiring.
Now, if she will spread herself a little
feast and deliberately sit down to enjoy
wise. of the day Slip on while she enjoys
her meal and her overweight tissues
accept the portion gratefully, rebuilding
not want it at first. but by and by you
will find an aching void if You try to sleep
without your crackers or waters, your
glass of milk or punch-Or some recon-
mended matted beverage-your physician
is the best judge of that You may use
butter if you like, but not heavy meats
even in sandwiches, and the good effect
Is increased in winter IL you take the
trouble to AVE something warm-although
few women will do that. A couple of slices
of brown bread, well buttered or with a
very thin slice of cheese. q glass of sweet
or buttermilk. a couple Of crackers spread
Wit with mn ma rraats e,d q d fig or ms some SOM. SUI such srait
end of a certain period relieve you of the
necessity of Il lot of medicines YOU are in
the habit of taking. and will soon begin to
build up the tissues. You are the best
judge of the amount and richness of food
to agree with you. but IL you feel tina you
can eat several slices instead of two. don't
be afraid; your dreams won't be bad on
that account.
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1899-01-08
Toilette de Diner.

Low bodice. tight-ftting at the back. and
artistically draped in front in soft waves
in wood violec satin. set of with a droop-
ing fringe berthe of black or iridescent
jet. arranged with q festoon by means Of
a diamond clasp on both sides and u jew
eled one in the center. Short pulled sleeves
and folded kerchief draperies in yellow
silk muslin or net embroidered with white
and red chenille spots: tuft of black ostrich
tips nodding on each shoulder. Violet
skirt with oval train partly yelled with
the new peplum skirt, in yellow China
crepe or mircir velvet. shaded white and
red. 1t is slashed on either side up to the
of loops and ends in black velvet ribbon
attached with a diamond clasp or lace
rosette. Shield-like tablier exquisitely en-
broidered with 4 bold. striking design
wrought in pearls, garnets and spangles;
delicate trail in keeping carried down the
string of pearls defines the broad belt and
another one with dangling drops encircles
the throat. In the hair a red aigrette and
diamond and pearl star relieve the Greek
knot of dark hair.
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1899-01-08
CANDLE DECORATION.
One of the Newest and Prettlest Ideas
Of the Day-Candle Parties
Are POuulQf.

Are Popular.
Candle decoration is among the newest
and most interesting adoptions of the day.
Nc artificial light of modern creation
equals the soft, mellow glow of a candle,
and for decorative purposes no number
of deliberately globed electric lights will
produce the rich delightful effects created
by a few daintily shaded candles.
Like many another quaint custom of our
forefathers. the candle is again coming
into vogue. Not as an article Of house
hold necessity. but as a means of beauti-
flying the home. ~drawing-room candles
now being considered an almost indispen-
sable factor of decoration for 5 O'Clock
tea, the dinner party. or formal reception.
its rich veneer Of color, is a far different
product than the old tallow dip with Its
ill-smelling smoke that taxed the eyes of
our ancestors. The decorative candle of
to-day is an accurately. proportional stick
of pure paraffine that burns with a light
as clear and white as the CLEAN of an
of shimmeTing silk or even paper, it en-
hances the beauty of a room or table a
From the custom of decorating the house
with candles has sprung the fad of decor
ating the candle with designs. There is
no end to the beautiful affects and taste
full emblems with which a candle can
be crnamented-a little paint and brush
being the only requisites to success. Every
holiday, dinner party or function has
many special features that can be Illus
trated on the candies. AT some of the
select functions given in New York city re-
Gently. many of the decorations on the
candles were masterpieces of artistic skill.
greatly admired and eagerly sought after
by the guests. many of whom are collec-
tors of decorated candles.
The fact that in nearly every family
there is someone with more or less artistic
ability, makes candle decoration a popu-
lar pastime. and it is not surprising that
candle parties are as popular as birthday
parties,
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1899-01-08
Three Young women Win.

The three prizes of $50 each in the
Century Magazine competition for the best
who received the degree of Il. A. in 1897,
have been won by three young women.
although more men than women entered
the contest. Vassar furnishes two of the
prize winners and Smith one. Professor
Huxley predicted that the best men would
always be able to take the prizes away
from the best women, but he declared that
the women ought to be given a full and
free chance to win the prizes il they could.
The women said that that was all they
wanted. In this case it seems to have been
all they needed.
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1899-01-08
VELVET AND SATIN esDsNoo1e COSTUME FROM HARPER. Bazaar

point lace. The skirt of the redingote Is
lined with white satin to a depth of twelve
inches. This design Is one which will lend
itself effectively to Kersey. broadcloth. or
silken fabrics having a fine luster. The
proper cut of the gown is obtained only
with the use Of Harpers Bazaar cut paper
patterns.
To make the redingote for a person Of
medium size, one will require twelve yards
of velvet, twenty-five inches wide. and five
yards Of white satin of the srme width.
The fur and lace may be estimated and
Of the garment be measured carefully after
fitting. The pattern of the skirt does not
accompany the redingote. but the prevail
ing circular design. smoothly lifted over
the hips, Is here employed.
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1899-01-08
The Nativity.

She held her baby on her heart.
And unused. with puzzled eyes.
."They say Of earth He has no part
Who came from Paradise;
Yet little son Of mine thou art.
Helpless. nor overwlse.
She laid his head upon her breast;
with breath OF spice and blossoms pressed.
OF frankincense and myrrh;
And through her bliss a vague unrest
Tore nj the heart Of her.
She held His cheek against her own;
Not Heavens but mine is He"
Oh. mother-heart. whose eyes alone
Across the years could see
Above her clasped Christ the blown
Bleak heights OF Calvary.
-Theodosia Pickering, in the Womsn's Home Com
psnion.
In the training of an heiress great rigid
lty of discipline is absolutely necessary.
An photographic has recently said:
THAT a girls mother has not the hard
ness of heart to train a beautiful heiress
successfully, and that her beauty received
her correct training only from having a
weak. insistent and foolish mother"
That the business of travelling govern
eeses has grown to be an important one;
and that nowadays a goyer n fsrci nI1
demonstrated by the passenger lists OF
European travel.
That this is a proud post gladly &C
CepteQ ny the UUtSl lduiSo VI
and society. and-not least-that another
great heiress is to be introduced into
society to dazzle the eyes and tempt the
affections of suitors Is a feature OF
great Importance to the average chaperoh'
The business of chaperoning has be-
come such an art that those VINO take
Il up call il THE training of an heiress.
1t embraces proper chaperonage around
the world. the introduction to court
circles and every educational advantage.
To chaperon an heiress a thorough
knowledge of the etiquette of all coun-
tries is an absolute imperative, and the
thousand personal graces and delicate re-
finements of accent that are the marks OIL
fine breeding and worthy wealth. Little
wonder that society women of not very
great fortunes accept such posts and small
er wonder that none but those OF extra
attachments can fill them
The question of dress which is supposed
to play a large part in the life of an heir
ess ia little mentioned by the chaperon.
TIL young woman is impressed with the
absolutely all. she can wear until her
debut. and after that she is only a lay
figure In the hands OF her tailor.
She Is strictly kept from putting on
a vain young woman she soon learns this
lesson and is quite serious in her garb.
as all foreign girls are until that eventful
The matter OF food is a delicate one
with the chaperon. She is a woman her
self with a grown-up liking for salads and
course dinners. With her, as constant
companion. is a young lady for whom she
is responsible in looks. digestion. tastes
and appetites.
BY self-denial on her own part, and by
severity to the young lady in charge
who may be a woman OF 1S-she keeps
her down to a diet of cereals. vegetapies
and meat. Her drinks are lemonade, il
ahs u fat. and milk IL she is thin. She
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1899-01-08
ETIQUETTE OF HANDSHAKING.
gard Are Based on kindllness
and m Sense,

Fashions Latest Dictates i'm This Re-
gard Are BASED on kindlIness
and Common Sense.
While every one shakes hands. not every
one knows the etiquette of tine ceremony.
which changes from season to season ac-
cording to fashions latest caprice. Friends,
of course, may shake hands as often and in
whatever manner it pleases them best to
do SO. They may grasp each others hands
heartily. hold them for a bit If they will,
then release them with u cordial pressure.
They may give a zeal cld-fashioacG pump
handle shake or the high lateral move
ment, that means nothing but that a SIM
shake. or they may give the shake rotary.
1t is in the meeting of strangers or mere
acquaintances that the difficulty of know
ing just what is expected arises. This, how
ever, is what the latest dictates of eti-
quette decree:
A hostess, IL a true one, should shake
her house by friends. She should do so on
their arrival and on their departure, and
when she meets them again II she desires
to keen up the acquaintance. When a girl
Is introduced to n married woman the older
woman must always take the initiative.
and II she be good-natured and cordial a
handShake will. follow. When a man is
introduced to a woman he must await her
pleasure, unless he be n much older man
or one particularly distinguished. If anoth-
woman introduces her husband or bro tn
er to another woman it would be natural.
indeed almost imperative, for the latter to
shake hands with him. but were he a
mere acquaintance it would be bad form
to shake hands with him on first introduce
ton.
Regarding dinner guests: If a man is
introduced to a woman for the purpose OF
hands with him.. but merely bows. Even
at u second meeting bow only are inter-
cumstaEces whether the acquaintance ever
ripenS into a shaking hands one.
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1899-01-08
has no ices, nor creams and candy Is for
her a totally forbidden thing.

The business Of professional chaper-
oning Is kept SO very secret that very
few ever hear of 1t. The chaperons them
selves are very difficult to obtain. as they
social position. intelligence, good disposi-
ton and congeniality-but once accepted
there Is never a word said afterward about
the relative positions of the two. They
are for the year practically mother and
daughter.
Once in Europe, the young girl becomes ON s
the childish charge of chaperon, and
as such she is invited to visit certain
places at certain times. But she goes to
no dinner parties, n she dances at no
balls
The chaperon. to maintain her W
social position. may be obliged to accept
such invitations. but the wealthy young
charge remains at home to be put to bed
at s o'clock. In America she has led a
gay life, but on the Continent she is a
little girl again and must accept her lot
as the prize of a later acquaintance with
British and Continental nobility.
The ~chaperon Is entertained at luncheon,
and there the young charge may go. She
rebels at the limited skirt just below her
furnished her-she who has been queening
it at Bar Harbcr, in crinoline and lace all
summer. But II is no use to complain.
until her debut and p]resentation at court.
After luncheon the little girl" is sent
to inspect the art gallery. A catalogue Is
furnished her as a souvenir and she knows
that later In the day her chaperon will
ask her about the styles of this or of that
painting. and she will have to answer.
According to rules. she messages each
inch OF her complexion every night. and
dash for sienderness. She speaks not a
word Of English. and opens her eyes N
a well-bred surprise II the American
mademoiselle speaks to her in any Ian
guage but French. By and by, though
the American girl does not know it, there
will be a German maid and later an
Italian. and a French. In this way she
will keep up her languages beyond mis-
take.
Mornings, as a special favor. the wide
awake American girl h understands a
Irritation upon the beach and a shopping
trip with 4 fine lunch. is invited as Z
special favor to study" in Lady Some
body's nursery. with her ladyShip's big
sleepy-eyed, rosy-cheeked English daugn-
tiers.
The heiress gets a fair return for her
money. and the chaperon comes home II
| tired and worn out with the long strain
of training an heiress" ~abundantly re-
warded In a monetary way. The sum
eronage is like that of a good wife. be
yond rubies."
There is no fixed figure. and the amour,
guardian of the girl and the .chaperon.
a m~illionaire's widow offered the widow
| of a president $500. 900 and expenses to take
her daughter to Germany for a year, II
would . dc her - e Cannot p ,sEs bt the s niiIi9 fbs
presidents widow. My influence depends
upon the personality Of the girls 1 am &c
| introduce abroad"
| al introducer very cordially. There are
| three ladies Of title nov in London who In
froduce desirable American heiresses al
court every winter. n her majesty has
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1899-01-08

The ~redingote. the original model of which
sign of extreme elegance. The back is
plainly fitted. and all the f~ullness. which
spreads into u graceful demi-train. Is FORM
pleats under the center back seam. The
front of the garment fits perfectly until 1t
reaches 4 point within one inch Of the CEN
ter front seam. Here 1t Is free from the
min and is allowed to slightly pouch.
The revers, which form two large scallops.
are faced with white satin (as is also the
chiffon horizontally rippled over satin. The
sleeves are of a scant coat variety. ex-
Quisitely fitted. a band OF chinchilla OFT
lines the entire garment, the border being
further embellished by narrow appliqued
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1899-01-08
The First Born.

Softly, my dear one. baby Is sleeping.
Gaze thou upon him. but kiss me instead.
Lest he awaken. oh. priceless treasure.
Pledge of our happiness. union and love.
How like thyself is our little one-dearer
Each day he grows. as l trace In his face
Features like thine: when his blues eyes are open
Almost / can read in their depth thine own soul.
What shall We name him? What. love. is thy name
Is there another SO sweet to my ear?
Like thee thy babe In name and in feature
That he shall be like thee, noble and true,
Kneel by his cot, love. and help me TO pray.
So thou shalt bless for the gift l have given.
When we shall kiss DER the gulf Of the years.
l opened my arms, Thou gavest this treasure.
Blest God, in Thy goodness. mercy and love:
And. oh. that the little feet ne'er go astray.
The soul of our babe be kept white as the SNOW.
We kneel down together and fervently pray.
Lyons. Kas MRS. A. L. M'MIILAN.
Kansas City journal. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1897-1928, 1899-01-08
Warm. but Light.

1t is foolishness to make the coats Of
young children of heavy material: Chill
NOT always mean warmth, and a child
should not feel its clothes a burden.
Many q little tot comes In from h
ought to have been a refreshing walk
weary and well nigh exhausted, because
Of the weight of the coat it has worn.
A layer of wadding between the material
and its lining gives warmth without adj
ding much to the weight of a pretty coat,
and velvet. satin, poplin. cashmere,
coatings are much improved in appear
ance by using 1t.