The times., 1899-08-06
ADIEU TO THE LACE gown
Ii Has Been Eclipsed by Gold
Meired Grenadine.
The Halo Hat I'm High Favor-sharP
the Least BeeomiDg-SmaII Belt
Buckles Now Considered DE RigEer

New York Aug. 5.-Think first. and think
hard, when you see bargain in lace. that
is not edging. offered. This is necessary
because it is a very dubious question
whether women next winter are going &c
wear the flmy needlswork 10 any extent
and a lace jacket or all-over lace costume
still costs enough to necessitste q justih-
cation Of long. hard wear. Requiesoat can
be safely. even now. pronounced over the
net gown. ietted in figures and spsnSled
in arabesques becauss a warning has come
that richly figured grenadines in divers
tones viii surely take possession OF ali we'll
regulated wardrobes next winter. Already
some Of these grenadines in white have
been worn by the always early in fashions
fields. at Newport These white visions are
wonderously se.otched and moired in gold
and silver. ana by sozne ignorant admirers.
set down as cloth CT gold But that is not
anywhere near the facts. for by some arJ OF
the French wsayers gold and silver color
ed silk is wrought through the we5-iike
meshes of white and the rich CLEANS are
brought oat in the high lights.
Surely the heat Of the summer season
has most expansive effect on the spirit
that rules the destinies of the feminine
wardrobe. Here We are enjoying net only
torrid weather. but at all the summer CEN
tres OF dress the most interesting reye-
lations in purple and fine twined linen,
Fer instance, we seem suddenly to have
arrived at the point where combinations,
many CT them daring and beautiful, are
The rule Of the hour Formerly when
lovely woman made her muslin or foulard
bow, IL was in cool, unbroken, uniarring
ncses Of lilac il msuve was her motif, and
1here is no ccntredicting the artistic truth
that few compilations can stand the near
ness of more than two colors at time.
Now. alas, all the best artistic Eradi-
tions are being set at naught, and the
very most fashionable thing to wear to
an afternoon picnic, for driving, or call
ing. is crisp white pique skirt elegantly
earnished with white embroidered white
Swiss muslin drawn over underwaist
OF sharp cerise silk and above this cream
straw, piled with thick tufts Of heiiotrope
and tied under the chin by black velvet
strings. Burnt bread colored gloves and
silk parasol. yellow as ripe corn. bring
UP the two ends OF the procession with
fine flare Of color
With such an arrangement one sees al
ternated the idea of a skirt OF organdie
or fine barege in one color, deeply founced
OF contrast possible. Sometimes, as win
happen. however. with the most iil-judged
fashion fat. pretty costume results and
saves the day.
Now. nothing seen this year has so at
tracted the eye as the dress of light open
meshed summer Cloth, that is 10 say, voil
crepon, wool crepe de chine, or wool and
silk grsnadine. with q knee-deep founce OF
black spotted let 4 gown Of this archi-
lecture has its skirt cut sheath-like 10 the
knee, and there its edges are shaped in ir-
regular scaliops. finished with a few close
set frilis of black net thence well out to
the floor. and in a smart train behind, the
very fuii sun-pleated valance of black spot
ted net swiTls ia an airy dusky cloud about
the feet The edge Of great founce is gar
nished with infantiie frills of itself and the
spots on the filmy stuff are either big,
loosely caught silk knots or winks Of bril-
liant Jet. Rich violet vols, peony red foul
ards or rush green grenadines accord most
handsomely with the novel fiounces, and the
black net recurs again and again on The
waists OF these costumes.
All sorts OF wonders have been achieved
by the dressmakers 20 closing the waists
of gowns. So intricate and inexplicable
are some Of the ways and means now used
for hooking or buttoning woman into her
dress waists. that even to shrewd feminine
eyes the tendency is strong toward the gus
picion that By enchantment, not mere hu-
man means is the wearer got into her elab-
crate frock- BY cleveriy concealed appii-
ances the waist viii be hooked up in as
many as FIVE different places in order 10
give tops and points and tufts of lace easy
and natural play and permit the maker OF
the costume 10 shape the body as her almost
eerie fancy dictates.
The pretty crystal button came very rear
being killed by kindness early in its season
OF popularity, and 2 staggering blow TO its
useful beauty was struck by the misappro-
pristiOD Of 1t to heavy winter coats and
huge belt and hat ornaments. Now the
Partisan modistes have taken the glass
button once more into favor and are using
IL on some midseason toilets and in early
autumn suggestions as edging to over
dresses and coats OF cloth To illustrate. a
very interesting white cloth yachting gown
had It's skirt split Up the front to show q
striped petticoat. ard its coat open in a
bolero curve upon pleasing silk skirt
The rounded fronts OF the coat and the
skirt drspery were stifiy braided and then
edged with pale green crystal balls pierced
TO receive the silk twist that held them In
place IL IS true these buttons We're very
small. but crystal they were. and most
srtful touch on the little seagoing suit
A wild mania for the ield-foEeT-c-ow1-
ed hat seems to have touched every Eonl-
II
fetal flowers are chief among the bargains
altered and the woman who can't make
sn investment in field flowers falling be-
1omingiy about q cheap rush straw or
Fnarked-down Leghorn had better hide her
shame under E calico sunbonnet Natu-
rally these inexpensive and rather fragile
examples of millinery are meant only for
country use, and for wear with white
piques. orsandtes. etc. The straw frame is
usually bought with a halo brim, three and
a half 10 four and five inches wide, and
the decision seems to be invariably in IA
yor OF binding the brims edge narrowly
with black velvet. A full knot OF velvet
is set somewhere under the brim. in order
that IL may lie against the hair, and then
quite peil nell the flowers are twined
round the crown. Black-eyed Susans. corn
flowers and marsh rue is d fsyorite com
bination. with ripe grasses
strong following goes with the water
lly hat, where the full-blown flowers arc
nlsssed IN q thick coronet, completely en-
csrcling the crown 10 make IL look high
and massive and no leaning toward the
sioppily picturesque allowed. Strings, or
the very gsyest imitation 5eweled hat
psrs, fssten these floral creatures in place.
and the only foreign accompaniment TO
the blossoms allowed is big bow Of black
velvet or tuIIe.
Over IN Paris as well as in ssnartly
dressed American society, the hair brooch
has been crossed of the list OF faghiona-
Bile toilet etceiSrss. and the most luxurious
new sunshades are Of rlscked chiffon. white
on thin white silk foundations. The han
dies are Of pale yellow natNsal wood. with
hook ends and the edging OF the parasol
is done with q thick rnche of Clipped white
tuIle, OF more regaliy still. with fluffy
a.