The daily morning journal and courier., 1899-07-28
ROME IN SUMMER.
The Tourists Having Vanished, the Cit,
 Asserts Herself.

The Tourists Having Vanished, the City
 Asserts Herself.
 lhose who only visit Rome in winter or Tn April, have not realized the full
 charms of the city. for in those sea.
 sons It owes its appearances of life
 chiefly to the "forestieri." The people
 themselves have not yet issued from
 their shells, their houses are still their
 refuge, where they nope or laze,
 shrunken with cold or else aching with
 'scirocco," which does not as a rule af-
 feet the foreigner until he has resided
 here for some time.
 But now that the tourists have van-
 lshed back to their various fashionable
 centers, Rome asserts herself. The
 Jole de vivre'' testifies itself all
 through her streets. The air blows
 fresh and sweet from the towering
 "campagna" under the morning sun.
 races look happy, the step seems
 lighter than usual, eyes are brighter
 and cool colored costumes predominate. Phe middle hours of the dar are, of course, too hot, and they are passed in doors, over the family meal, the siesta, ] etc. After four o'clock the streets have developed a shady side to some purpose, and they therefore become populous once more, this time rather with fashionable than industrial folk, and one pauses a moment perhaps to reflect how much beauty, male and fe- male, has frequented this "Corso" since "a Af To, vol fny oyifr nally the "Via Flaminia," or, rather. it still is such, although, owing to the vandalism, not of the real Vandals and Goths and Normans, but of the Popes and their ''nephews," it has lost the triumphal arches which formerly spanned it and divided it into living measured paragraphs. For wonder, where that young officer in blue and silver is twisting his mustachios, while group of black and white nuns passes him, stood, until 1862, the arch of Mar GUS Aurelius and Lucius Verus, de- stroyed then by Alexander VII (ChigD merely because it interfered with his horse races at Eastertde.
 Various, indeed. are the figures one sees during wander through the de- lightful network of these streets. In the morning there is less crowding, so that they stand out more wildly. At the corners here and there stand pie turesque country women, with white, folded headcloths, selling wild straw berries, which scent the fresh air. or weighing out cherries in old fashioned scales and chattering to their cus- toners all the time. Presently various other iOtaraStinu IlU- black anw white monk, wearing red | cross upon his habit, going about the | business of his convent-a vender of | lemon water, the favorite drink of the | lower classes of Rome in summer, with | a painted wagon and all the necessary | glasses, taps, squeezers etc, calling Cool drinks, cool drinks!" And. stepping up into another level and another street, one passes by dark door, ways which frame the usual dark wo- man busy knitting and at the same time experimenting huge baskets of eggs for sale, or green cucumbers and tomatoes tlaring red.
 But enough of people! Peed into this court of my lords palazzo; it is a veri- table fine peristylium, a S of old, with arge white marble fountain in it's cen ter, whose singing waters drop from three twisted dolphins, and overflow into capacious basin, from which spring up luscious clumps of lowering arum. All around it wind neat formal grvel paths, which lead 'ounr palms and deodaras and olean- lers Upon everything the sun is now blazing while up above in the blue air he swallows and swifts are whirling in wild, happy flights. How cool and fra ;rant 1t will be when evening comes!- Rome Correspondence of the London flobe.