The times., 1899-11-12

+ NEW YORK. Nov. I1-It Luculus we-s
to drop into America fGr square meal or
two. he would likely find that san Fran
cisco stiI puts up the best Chinese dinner
in the States; thar New Orleans can pre-
pare oysters and coffee TO beat the ccun-
try, and that for pies ard baked beans
Boston continues TO hold the championship.
But for all around good food. with indaite
variety in its cooking. New Yors BOW
stands at the head OF the list This IS
easily due to the fact 1hat the average
New Yorker viii no matter how good thair
meals at home, go any lengths to enjoy a
genuine palate ticker. ard nothing so adds
10 their relish Of a dish to eat it in sight
" Bohemian Surroundings. the women be-
ing as keen epicures as the men There
is really no amount OF badly lighted street
and rough company the smartest society
/ leaders and busiest men won't go through
to taste a wine, cheese pickle. OF chop
I their own home Iarder cant supply and ia
+ consequence big gilt and ioOkius-giass res
tauranJs have a hand-to-hand struggle -
hold their patronage.
The struggle is against the various lunch
counters or chop houses that have put q
/ patent on some strange or particularly saw
Ory dainty. a case IN point IS a bit Of an
/ eating room net a thousand miles from the
I Metropolitan Opera House on the bitter
. est winter nights when that temple o. mu-
sic turns itself inside out you can run
! across 10 this plain little oyster saiCGn and
I dnd the Gould men and their wives. Heber
Bishop and the party from his box VIII
lam Sloan and his family. standing. in thsir
/ opera raLmsnt. at the counter. OF seated
. about the little tables innocent of table
/ cloths. They don't object In the least 10
/ the saECed floor and the cabby dropping
in for a hot bottle. They are there TO eat
/ shellGsh thaJ can't be cooked so wen any
where else in the Empire City. and for tEs
cream ale served in brown t0bsys. The man
who runs the saloon has his ale on draughl
and keeps the secret OF its origin and It's
virtue. He also has a recipe for brOiled
lobster that is his own. and he serves ths
stockholders from the opera house with not
a bit more ceremony than he dOzs the p-Giu-
est man or woman who patrCEizes his eouu-
I ter All the same he has a clientele Thar i5
. worth small fortune through tEz winter.
But if the oyster saloon has big fol-
lowing a German hCHbrau In an East side
stable has still a larger patronage This
is q particular resort for the younger el5-
ment after the theatres, and the actors take
to it kindly. IL is a big L-shaped room.
now the establishment is as c9mpIsJs
in its fittings as any restaurant in Dvss-
den or Munich The BelmOnts and IseLips
and John Drew. dainty Julia NarloWe and
Clyde Fitch are among its patrons. because
it is possible to get every brew OF beer
there that Germany England or America
produces and it is one Of few Of the places
at once most Bohemian and entirely re-
spectacle.
& rVt7r1,,e,b -t,, r-,~,r-e fror, z.r-.- ~ g.
man pipes and American cigars YOU can see
Miss Shurtz dipping her delicate uoz4 in
the foam Of the blacke5t Munich beer
while her father hCbaObs with some Of his
TeUtCuic Chums and August BelmCut's
partner sits at a table with his wife and
daughter discussing strong German cheese
sandwiches and black German coffee. Beer
and reIishes and coffee is all you can buy
in the place. but every rafler ald crumb
is redolent OF the fatherIand and it's ona
q the experiences Of the winter for a
party Of debutantees with their chaperons
and admirers TO drop into the stable TO
test new beer and eat cabbage pickle and
seed cake
Farther down in the Island OF Manhattan
IN Houston Street and in East Eighth
Street are the two fashionable Hungarian
restaurants. Fashionable by reason 0f
their wild music and thorough going Bo-
ventionaI and the food, all save the Hun
garian dishes. OF the poorest quality. at
both OF these cafes during the winter there
is a rush OF custom from the smart resi-
dence district ChaUncey Depew. and even
busy Theodore Roosevelt, Richard Croker,
! and young Cornelius Vanderbilt entertain
dinner parties in the crowded rooms. mere
ly 10 eat a strange Hungarian preparation
OF rice and chicken and to enjoy the mu-
sic.
Now and then the music iuterfsres with
the dinner, and it is 10 uncommon sight to
see the women who are too blase TO ap-
plaud Eames' arias at the opera house.
drop their knives and forks to applaud
wildly and even take part in the chorus
Of some music-haH melody the band is
playing with only such contagious fire as
a Hungarian band can play.
This autumn the acme Of every WOm-n's
desire, whether a resident or visitor n
( New York city has been TO eat al one or
the famous free lunch counters in the Wall
Street neighbOThOOd. and TO do this the
company OF not only man but a relative
is necessary-fOr one hour every daY tas
swinging doors OF the most notable free
/ lunch restaurants in the country. lO-a "a
on Warren Street. is open to women prop
erly escorted This is the famous Stew
! arts. where il costs something near 81 09J
deyiled crabs, cheeses, picked wa nuts.
etc, served free to the purchasers OF Ii
quor.
At Stewards between / and o'clock
every day. it is great sight % see hale
dozen or more taiICT-made suits and
French hats lined up al the counter. their
wearars trying every savory in reach.
| washing iL down with beer and rubbing
elbows coGtcut5dly with w0skmenr CLERKS.
: and brokers
bar is noc enjoyed by the women al Stew
arts. they ccutriva to- fad their way and
[ an ob.igiug masculine escort To odd
I Toms, lu Thames Street where the la-E-
ers and brokers resort Tor q genuine Eng
Iish chop three Inches thick elI fGc Ems
I Iisl ale and stout. To this ancient chop
I house. q remnant Of .he days b1fls1 tas
. British evacuaied EeW YORK the llu---si
Ward McNIster used TO go. ami uJua-
days such young re=I5 Us Aie-sai= =- Hal-
den. Alfred Vanderbilt aEd Tons Ne.y
take small parties FOR Ign-heon. caeo--iCs
women to tie bar AFTER zhc eEols sId
baked potatoes 10 GrlaE pewter mug cf
I sto-c or ale AC-ia ana again have col
Iae-1r5 Ct aHeisar china. pewter. a-i llr-
aiture attempted TO euy Cut the antique
ittiu-z OF This iitr-e sH-gserE. bur -a5 Ir1-
uri5tlc G1ds Jley bring h.. large T-rt
Of bis -rIis ana -p lJ date De has sEe-
rezsiuIlF resisted atl pi5yrs
There was s'a1lc and dis5lJl -far-laE On
the h-aE OF one ftIr Chjcagual, -gt lass
week whzn she H4isHed her chop iu -0'd
Tom 5" back r10m. and drained her pewter
mug az really J,uly bag. Its perfectly
lovely" she confessed, "but J lid so want