Oxford Democrat. [volume] (Paris, Me.) 1833-1933, 1899-05-23
copyright. 1889. by the Author.l

PICTURESQUE coCoANC
forth big blazes and primstone like the
pit Of the internal regions But II
shooting up day and night over tract
Of 10. 900 acres great clouds OF steam
and smoke and deadly sulphur fumes
and sending mp from assures | 900 feet
deep heat enough to burn wood and
boil water il not being active-at least
in a modest way-then. pray. what is
Some friends and l. jolly good Ameri'
cans all. visited the volcano from the
Hilo side The coasts Of these islands
are strangely lonely. They are so rough
and rugged and the sea that dashes
against them il 40 wild and high that
no small boats can live except in the
little harbors where the steamers land
Il il q rough trip over summer seas.
but not smooth seas Your ship dances
up and down past tremendous, barren
bluffs 40 steep and awful that you
shuddcr and wonder what would be-
come Of you IL You were to fall down
there. Lines Of white water tumble
down their sides thousand feet. send
ing up showers Of spray and disappear
ing in the sea. Not n rowboat is along
the shore. not the white sail of fisher
mans craft is visible on the face of the
blue water.
Somewhere in the mountains or upon
the sea it is always raining here at this
time Of year. and by sunlight or moon
light there are perpetual gorgeous rain
bows. So near you they are that 1t
seems. il you could Just step ont little
way. you could lay your hand upon the
pot Of money they told us when we
were children was buried mt the end OF
the rainbow. l remember starting in
pursuit Of il once The rainbows that
play over the black crater Of Kilauea
are especially brilliant dazzling in
their vivid beauty.
Sugar plantations with millions in
them are pointed out to rs as we skirt
the coast Of Hawaii They are back OF
the volcanic bluffs. Here and there is a
tiny break in the bluffs and fertile
patch Of ground close by the sea As We
enter the little harbor of Hilo. Cocoanut
island. covered with the trees that give
il its name. is pointed out to US never
see a cocoanut tree that I do not think
Of Mark Twain's description Of ia
feather buster struck by lightning
We are rowed ashore at beautiful
Hilo, pearl upon the brow Of Hawaii.
Outside Of Honolulu there is not pier
or dock on the Hawaiian Islands at
which steamer can land The harbors
are shallow, the coast is rough and the
surf high. Steamers anchor half mile
offshore. and freight and passengers are
transferred to and from them in row.
boats manned by finely built, brown
skinned natives. This adds to the pic
turesqueness Of travel in Hawaii.
Hilo is the largest town in Hawaii,
and, next to Honolulu, the largest upon
the islands It contains between 5000
and 4. 900 inhabitants 1t is a miniature
tropical paradise. with bit Of Punch
and Judy thrown in The Punch and
Judy part is the half naked Japanese
babies that swarm and squeak and
tumble over one another in the streets
For weary folk. like the farmer wife
on her deathbed. so tired that they de-
sire only lust to do nothing for ever
and ever, the place is heaven. 1t is
cooler there than at Honolulu. apj there
are not so many mosquitoes Neither is
there that too mnchness OF tree and
foliage which is drawback to Homo
lulu. At Hilo you can see the stars at
night, and the streets are not overshad-
owed to the point of dense damp dark
ness.
The pretty town rests at the foot OF
mountain, whence streams Of pure wa
ter flow through the lawns and gardens
Roses begin to grow here, too. for q
wonder. and flowers Of rare loveliness,
such as you see in California. One who
had cottage and patch of ground at |
Hilo could raise on his own soil every
thing he needed to eat. from cocoanuts
to fresh eggs
We remain one night at Hilo. and at |
Z in the morning take stage for the |
mountain top and Kilauea crater. It 10
not every day in these times that the
traveller can enjoy . ride in an old fash
toned stage with q bugle and four |
horses. two Of which are maleA rs we
did. Our leaders were mules, our wheel
ers were horses, and all Of those blessed
nags had seen better days far better.
let rs hope |
You pass through at least four de-
grees Of latitude from WARM TO cool in
travelling that 81 miles Of road from
Hilo to the crater Of Kilauea Il Il
smooth. gentle rise AL the way. won
derfully picturesque road. fair and a.
Turing - the road to ruin Az we tros
ont Of the town We pass patches Of sug-
y cane waving their royal dlksu
plumss n The soft wind A. We 60 mp |
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