Evening star., 1899-04-01

purposes all pronounced features must end.
In every other department of mems attir,e
inconspicuousness is dominant. The ac-
compaying illustrations give a good general
Idea OF what is correct Tailors sea
changes in nearly every feature of cut:
their customers will need 70 have fully half
of them pointed out. IL, indeed. they do not,
like wise men, leave II to their ninth of a
man to do his win. In that case the trous-
ers Will be a bit wider at the top and a bit
narrower at the foot than they were last
season. That brings the unmentionalles a
shade nearer to the STYLES of fifty years
ago-the days OF nipped male waists, of
chokers and of Byron locks. But the re-
semblance is more in the cutters eve than
IN the observers, and is faint at most.
Fifty years hence men may survey their
photos of 30 without the wonder that
oaguerreotypes now call up TO youngsters-i
or they may unless in the next half century
the tailor displays far more daring than hes
has shown in the past few years.
For Business Suits.
Vests will be longer and their openingsI
Will be a bit higher. For business suits theyi
may be double or single breasted from Stun
TO match coat and trousers or of n sub.
dued fancy vesting. Most of them will be-
made with a collar. but vest without al
collar Is equally correct. Goats will be
sHorter and there viii be a slight let up in
me baggineSs Of loose coats thai will tend
toward slghtlness, Manly shoulders NAV
shoulder will be permitted. and whereyep
Dame Nature hasn't built the customer TO
this mold the tailor will help the old lady
cut. This doesn't make pleasing reading
perhaps. but taiicrs olways did this III Won
oon believe it, test your neiehbor's
shoulder with pin. which viii need 10 be-
long. In response 10 adroit croSs-question-
ing the tailor will beCrudgingly admit thar
spring brings a change in the manner of
slitching edges of coats and vests. He
gives the Information unwillingly because
he doesn't think IL of interest to any one
outside his craft When the questioner re-
ceives it he doesn't understand It. so again
the tailor is right. and his customers get
the so-called machine stitching whether
they know it or not. More than half the
time they don't. The three-button cutaWav
VIII be the favorite though a four-button 10
hide the vest is permissible and those who
Ike cutaway frOcks can have them. The
materials for these suits are I'm great va
riety, but all are i'm subdued shades and in
conspicuous designs. Wherever stripes and
lines are in bright colors as they not inx
frequently are, they are of the slenderest-
oVercoats and Evening Dress
Overcoats Will not be so baggy as they
were last winter-not nearly so much as
they were a year earlier. The hem will bs
full enough to admit of complete ease TO a
walker of extended stride. but, happily, the
garment that hung loosely as to suggest
vaudeville souhrettes skirt IL thing of
the past. Overcoats of all sorts are a tribe
snorleneu, DuI lne1e are no new character
istics of decided order nor is there any
noticeable favor for one sort over another
In dress suits the coat echoes the shorten
ing OF other coats. Vests will usually be
single breasted, though in this the wearer
has no option, and there are various other
small details of change that the tailor
knows about and will explain, If asked,
But he'll feel hurt If a customer doesn't IN
dorse them, what's the use? II is not
news to announce that the Tuxedo coat r.
not part OF a dress suit but some men
make the mistake Of thinking that ii is. SO
the warning Is given. The Tuxedo is q
neglige garment. absolutely nothing more.