The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1899-02-02
POPOCATEPETL's CRATER.
TFrom Modern Mexico. 1


The sulphur house of Rancho T1ama-
cas- is the really important station on
a trip to the peak OF Popocatepetl. Here
we arrived at dark after a ride of four
or five hours on horseback from Ameca-
MEGA, through a beautiful valley at first
with Indian nuts on either side, then
grain fields by the side of clear limpid
streams rushing down from the melting
SHOWS of the two great mountains
which seemed to gain in grandeur and
elevation as we approached their bases.
Leaving Ixtaccihuatl to the left, we en-
tered road which has evidently been
IN use for many years, as it has sunken
from the wear of ages until it is SO
deep for several miles that we, on horse
back, could not see over the banks OF
the almost level country on either side.
Entering the pine timber we found
good road for long distance, which is
used in crossing to Puebla- However,
near the top of the saddle between the
two mountains, we left this road and
crossed a small stream which in it's
violent descent roared as If to scare
us from our purpose. We had now only
bride paths, in some places very poor
ly defined, always very steep and Slip
perry, over fallen timber and rocks, I'M
der Iow-hanging limbs, where we were
forced to lie close to the necks of our
horses, and on ascending steep places
hold to their names not to slip out of
the saddles. Then came the rain to add
to our difficulties, and for two hours we
were drenched so that we did not ap-
preciate the grand scenery through
which we were passing. There are many
deep gorgeS, but in no place is the trail
so near that it is very dangerous. I
think there is not another high noun
tain in the world so accessible and at
tended with so little real danger in it's
ascent as Popocatepetl. In most places
the soil is a deep loan, formed of the
decompOsed ashes cast out by the vol
cano, and which now produces a grad
ual slope to the snow line, mostly COW
cred by the vacation grass and pine
timber.
On arrival at Tlamacas we found the
sheds where in years past the sulphur
was refined and in these we tried to
make ourselves comfortable until morn
ing. With a large fire in the middle of
the floor and the use of some small
earthen pots we prepared our coffee
and supper. We spread our clothing to
dry, and passed miserable night wrap
ped in our blankets with our feet to the
fire. At o'clock we awol<e our guides
and stepped out to see if it was light
enough to prepare for the ascent of the
mountain.
Our guides told US to eat but little,
but to take lunch with US. They then
wrapped our feet in wooden cloths to
protect them from the cold and snow.
Mounting our horses, we rode through
the timber and across a barranca whose
sides were soft ashes in which our
horses sank at every step; then above
the timber line, through the vacation
grass, which reaches into the snow
Finding the snow extending further
down the mountain than usual, our
guides advised US to ride as far as pos
s1bIe in order to save our strength, but
soon our horses were painting and able
to go only a few steps at time. So we
dismounted and prepared for the jour-
ney on foot. We had yet nearly 4,OOO
feet to ascend over a smooth surface
of snow, so steep that we went in zig
gag faShlOn, stopping every few steps
to lie down-presumably to admire the
scenery. To the left lay the valley of
Mexico, still in the shadow, except in a
few high places, which the early sun
had tinted with gold. Almost directly
under US we could see the town of Am
ecameca with the Sacromonte and the
white convent buildings, and beyond the
three lakes, Chalco, Xochimilco and Tex
coco, glisten. The sun lit UP the spires
and towers of Mexico City and it SEEM
ed as II the whole world was under u.s.
The valley of Puebla was hidden by
light, f1eecy clouds driven from the
Gulf coast, and above them lowered
Arizaba's peak, with it's beautiful white
dome. and the castellated towers of
Malinche.
Finally, at 1850 o'clock, our guides
said:
ALI esta ell crater" and in few
minutes we were on the rim, warned by
the guide not to go too near it's edges.
We threw ourselves down and at first
could only pant and gasp for breath,
the only sound heard being the loud
humping of our hearts in chorus. In
short time we were able to rouse our
selves, take swallow of cognac, eat a
sweet lemon and a cracker and enjoy
the awful grandeur of the scene.
Before US was a great black opening
of an oval shape, longest from north to
south, with it's walls of obsidian to a
depth of five or six hundred feet. Ow-
ing to OVerhanging walls we could not
see the lowest point. On the further
side was a great patch of yellow and
from its creVaSSeS rose a cloud of steam
or, as we were told, sulphurous gas,
which had melted the SHOWS above The
guides Informed US that this is where
the sulphur rock was taken out, and
one said he had stayed down there for
80 days at a time, and the other had
made trip each day from the sulphur
house to the crater, taking down the
rock to be refined at Tlamacas.
I found it took a great effort to walk
a few steps and more to make a few
pictures. My body was as heavy as lead
and my mental powers seemed dormant.
I seemed as if just half awakened from
a sleep. After a time our breath came
more easily and our heartbeats became
more natural, but yet there was the
dazed feeling. The snow was too soft
to permit our walking round the rim, as
it was liable to slide down with the
weight of a person. Hearing strange
echo from our voices, 1 drew my revolt
yer and fired several shots into the
crater, which echoed back and forth
with a really wonderful effect, followed
in moment by crash on the opposite
side as great mass of rock and snow,
loOsened perhaps by the waves of sound
set in motion or possibly by glancing
ball, fell into the abyss. 1t was like
great peal and roll of thunder amid the
awful stiffness which soon settled over
everything as before.
We seemed to look over the top of
Ixtaccihuatl, and as the clouds by this
time had covered the valley of Pueb1a
almost entirely it looked like a great
white sea with pillows rising and fall
ing. The valley of Mexico was a
flock of white sheep on a. hillside, so far
below and so small did the clouds APP