The record-union., 1899-10-01

" II
Tins far most of the new skirt mod
els. both for utility and demi-dress
uses, are absolutely untrimmed' unless
the rows of silk machine-stitchlng
about the hem can be called trimming.
Newt to q finish of silk machine
stitching as a trimming for cloth and
wool costumes of medium fal Welsnl
the fancy is to decorate more dressy
models with strips of white or very
light-colored cloth overlaid with vine
or other pattern in fine silk cord pas
sementerie. French ladies' cloth in jet
black is also cut up into narrow straps
and stitched to tailor costumes in long
vertical rows, terminating in tretoh
design at the ends.
Many of the new autumn short
waists of cream white albatross, ladies'
cloth, camels hair, or other dainty
wool are made up after the simple
yoked and plated styles Of the summer
cottons, but at the throat and waist
are an added collar and girdle of deep
wine-colored dahlia, violet, green,
brown or black silk velvet This touch
of color gives a charm to these dainty
little waists which will be worn dur
ing the entire autumn season above
skirts of mohair, costume cloth, vicunas
double faced cashmere, or drap d'ete.
The new fringes this season are very
attractive. They vary in width from
one to twelve inches, and are made of
silk, beads, or chenille, separately or
combined
A new skirt for slender figures has a
deep yoke at the top, which fits the
form without a wrinkle Sometimes
this yoke is of corded silk, again it is
of wool fabric, covered with circling
rows of braid its entire depth. Below
the yoke the skirt is laid in kits, and
has very deep hem, which is either
half-covered with Notwithstanding or
overlaid with double rows Of heavy
satin ribbon. This is one of the neat
styles for autumn which has no dip at
the back. 1t is of even length just
clearing the ground all around. Double
faced cashmere, carmelite, vicuna,
camel's hair, and similar soft, light
wool fabrics are used for the kits. An
other new model shows an underdress of
slnall-fgured silk, with an overdress in
circular form, but slashed from the
hem to below the hips on the front and
sides, leaving the overdress in seven
long, straight panels. The skirt at
the top, instead of being cut off and
belted is carried up on the bodice in
the shape of pointed girdle.
The nasturtium shades are beautiful
" copied this autumn season in Lyons
woven silk velvets and double-faced
satin ribbons used in elegant millinery
A marked characteristic of fall styles
win be the increased popularity of the
French redingote, which appears in
many graceful forms and effects, made
of greatly varied materials, and with
simple or elaborate trimmings, to con-
form to the occasions for which it is
required. This stately style of over
dress has gained steadily in fashionable
favor, and redingote effects are likely
to multiply. No wrap ever devised
looks well over a redingote, nor is a
wrap needed, for during the cool, au-
tumn season the redingote is made of
cloth, corded silk, wool bengaline, vel
vet-striped wools etc, and on genuine,
cold-weather garments of this style odd
revers shaped bretelles. hoods with
edges rolling to the shoulders, and
shawl-shaped collarettes, with points
extending to the belt in front, are add
ed Skirts of velvet or corded silk will
be worn beneath handsome silk and
wool or cloth redingotes, and other
skirts for less elegant costumes will
be plain cheviot, vicuna, and similar
fabrics.
Scotch tweeds are among the first
fabrics the statesmen show customers
who are looking for serviceable fall
dress goods. These stylish materials
are in varied qualities and new attrac-
tive color blendings. and they occupy
at present a prominent place on the
counters of all frst-class dry-goods
houses.
Louis XIV. coats of black velvet will
be among the first of the expensive
dress" styles to be worn this fall.
They measure some inches more in
length than the very short Louis XVI.
coats. with their parted fronts, and are
to be worn with circular skirts of
black satin faille, crepon, or lpstrous
faced cloth. They have revers of white
satin, bordered fatty along the edge
with black velvet. on which is an ap-
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