New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1899-11-12
LATEST PARTISAN FADS.
THE BOX PLEATED SKIRT HAS TAKEN
THE POPULAR FANCY.
A MOST EFFECTIVE NOVELTY Is PERFORATED
VELVET - EMPIRE BELTS ARE FASH
IoNABLE WHEN FUR TRIMMED.

Paris November g.
One Of the most elegant novelties OF the season
is perforated velvet This is sometimes done In
lace patterns. and is as elaborate as and much
richer than the gupure cloths. Imagine a visiting
dress OF steel gray velvet combined with a plaid
sk In which there Is good deal OF white The
underskirt is OF the plaid, edged with sable This
Is nearly covered by the long tunic Of velvet also
edged with fur, and perforated I'm the most elabo-
rate pattern over white silk foundation The
perforatfons are picked out by an Embroidery Of
chenille and a sprinkling OF Jet beads. On the
bodice there Is a high Empire belt OF plaid silk
draped about the figure and edged top and bottom
with fur. Above this the cloth. entirely covered
by the perforated pattern. Is arranged In the form
OF blouse. The sleeves have perforated pattern
on the outside OF the arms. They are finished
with fur edged point over the hand. and under
this is second point Of the plaid, also edged
with fur.
Rather novel example OF a box pleated skirt
occurs in a princesse gown OF fawn cloth The
gown Is a perfectly tight fitting affair to below
the hips and is entirely stitched In horizontal lines
less than quarter OF an inch apart From where
this stitching ends the cloth Is arranged all about
the figure In box pleats. which allowed to
fare. The bottom OF the gown has medallions Of
appnqued gupure between every box pleat. little
lace bolero. with revers Of blue panne, trims the
upper part OF the bodice and there some lovely
buttons Of gold and blue enamel holding the boero.
common way TO make the "bonne femme skirt
Is TO stitch down the pleats by means of velvet
ribbon, TO the depth OF eighteen Inches in front
and perhaps half as much In the back. The pleated
skirt looks pretty n bright red. trimmed in this
way with velvet ribbon of a darker shade OF red.
The little peated bolero Is entirely stitched down
with the velvet ribbon. and is worn over blouse
Of red and black plaid. with high black velvet
belt There is doubt OF the success OF the
pleated skirt; indeed II Is appearing In large num-
bers the street One form of the pleated skirt
has yoke and panel down the front, and the
pleats hung TO this yoke.
Suits are made Of lightweight cloths; the rage
for white cloth suits was spoken OF last week, but
there shades Just off the white that the dress
makers say will be decidedly fashionable. cos
tune of palest blue cloth IL pronounced smart.
About the bottom OF the tunic the cloth is cut
into fringe OF long leaves the perforations being
SO fine that the leaves look Ike lace. The effect Is
lovely and the Idea is The blouse Is of
purple panne, with cloth leaves making straps over
It from collar to waist. The color scheme, too, Is
lovely the purple with the light blue being most
effective.
VOGUE OF THE MOTSQUETA1RE
Mousquetare gloves with the long wrists worn
over the dress sleeves again in style They are
smart and although only women who are always
a little ahead OF the modes have yet adopted
them, II Is quite probable that they VIII he com
monty worn before long. 1t must be admitted that
there is still only small proportion Of fashionable
Nevertheless, there are always to be seen OF an
afternoon lovely costumes In the - Eos Sq qother
large brim raised little on one side ne entTe
e%ery or shade hG Of Violet from purple to Paest
on one side was b big 9S;e bunch Snrfe Of @ in
other Color~say red. blue or green,
For simple costume this suit Of velvet was
GorGcd rcvet dotted with black The skirt closed
On side under three folds two Of blaSk yeive,,
> pai tied by Of gray The Jacket had an as 80
trakhan collar and opened TO show "A Walsicoa,t o,
black cloth. With this was worn large DUO"
rival Of the jacket ooacs for T5 the s ssTfs is
b. fre Sdri pnr"uIary in favor 18th velvet gowns
cherry looking autumn suit is o, one and edged
velvet With long t1nic GU, 'nrS Sa basque is plain
except for tn hood which is lined With paid
The kind Of yeIve, used is thin close d fa0f re-
which seems to se qSiteo I new be Snid Velvet
COMPOSED De Of BrigSt coOfs on white ground
Plaids OF all kinds certainly ns Used but the
At the dressmaker's one exhibition OF roDes lO,7
lows another There was Certainly yo 9syer was pre
sented Inc features that one sees over ana oStn
SGo6 mG are the the b nE4 m skirts there is
number OF models from which to choose there IRE, Is
rs OF al the Long main fog gsf TAKEN sTrf in the back
there is the plain skirt with the double box peSSt
" 0bonne femme" skirt which may may not be
hung from yoke. and there + the box pIea ,Ie
s ,lnT As wo t fTGm of Of skirts. It this
as il there skirts for every kind o. ngnre
yet. strange TO say, the enect Oh every -" -
much the same. tall and slender
NEWEST DESIGNS IN GOWNS.
Here arc notes OF some OF the gowns that the
psr,s dressmakers have been making this week:
A costume OF red cloth has the tunic fastened 0"
one side and slashed about the bottom IN ueep
points OF an odd shape. These sashngs are
the tabs rD snd .he in black passemenier The
ofd ar
bust this is crossed By tabs that fasten the 1aeHe,
The jacket Is finished al about win ,ne tWo more
tabs at the waist line. which also cross ,u. oov.
cred sS an ss eSfhs Of and
ne pearl and jet beads This forms TUNE; very
long and cut into points 4nts e on skirt OF
hounces OF plain uie edged with ace, n, me er
broaered tnlle and over the latter Is little boler9
made of folds Of TURQUOISE blue r'oooh NeNe' anu
eeg se % following n model is so elaborate that i Is
dcu give clear idea of shorter cape G and
bfpcade ne lining Is chiffon Of fr the nsms
6 %ade Of red purple and lavender ribbons and
strands Of cloth OF sod feet h deem Snd trims the
lower q the garment ' The fn mpper nape is
several chiffon chin The ssme Kind Of fringe and
the shoulders is a purple veivet capucIni i ,
with sbirred chiffon. and held on the DUST ny '"o
OK pretty model for blue velvet street costume
With no trimming The bodice Is little tgnt
,scket fastened on the bust and from there siop-
Ing away TO the back This ana ,ne sise'y W,are
The Jacket opens in front appears Wastcoat OF
folds OF lavender velvet Inc cheihiSe''e u vi
lavender mousseline de sole
THE RUSSIAN BLOUSE AGAIN.
Tho Russian blouse has appeared In one or two
y, the dressmaking establishments BY this Is
meant the Russian blouse as IT first came out some
wears ago a loose belted coat that reached nearly
.. ,ho knees. One gown made In this model Is or
nIa,d veve, with belt Of white SILK win TWO SABLE
heads taking the place of buckle ins coa' Is
oou h hie The second model made precisely the
same way is rather chic suit OF oiack cVtn Win h
sts c,, In small circles about the bottom ana
the blouse cus ~ These are piped with bright