Akron daily Democrat. [volume] (Akron, Ohio) 1892-1902, 1899-10-31
THEFORCEOF WAVES.
GENTLE ROLLS OF WATER THAT
HOLD A FEARFUL POWER.

Ground Seas IN the EnE1ish Coast
Which Wreck Vessels on Calm
Days-Thcse sweIls Strike With n
| Force Of n Ton TO the square Inch.
Many visitors TO the coast are sorely
| auzzled when boatman either refuses
to put off from the shore, or at most
20 far from land, on day when there
Is no sign Of an approaching storm
and the water is only moved by long
and gentle rolling swell.
Argument is of no avail, and if the
old salt is pushed for a reason he will
only reply with some cryptogramic re-
mark about "the ground sea- the
questioner then retiring more bewil-
iered than before.
1t is hard to understand how such a
gentle swell can presage danger, but
to experienced eyes it gives a warning
that must be beeded. All along the
west and parts of the south coasts of
England and ireland. as well as the
west coast of Scotland, uncounted
tales are told of ships which on per-
fectly calm day have been within q
few hours first caught by gentle roll
Of the water and finally thrown on a
rockbound shore by the dreaded
ground sea-
To understand this curious marine
phenomenon it must be borne in mind
that out on the Atlantic waves are Of
ten formed to a heigh of 40 feet. Driv-
en- before heavy gale, these advance
at rate of from so to 30 miles an
hour. Travelling at sIch rate. they
soon get out of the wind swept
area. But even though, for them, the
storm is past they still roll on in fury,
their undulatiOns often being felt 500
miles, from the point of their creation.
In the region of the storm these
waves are fierce. breaking billows, but
as they get farther away they settle
down into long. rolling ridges, which
travel onward in long. unbroken lines,
perfectly parallel with each other.
Out on the open sea these ridges Of
ten stretch out for distance of over
30 miles, and they travel in threes,
each successive wave being larger
than its predecessor The sight is an
imposing one.
The farther they progress the small
er they become in height, but this is
compensated for by the fact that their
motion is communicated to the mass Of
water below, until the roll can be de-
tected fully so feet under the surface.
This gives them the name of ground
sea-"
In this popularity their danger lies,
for when a becalmed ship is caught in
them, her draft. the resisting power
that enables her TO ride out storm,
becomes the fulcrum which the liquid
mass uses to hurl her onward to de-
struction.
On calm day any sailing craft
caught in the ground sea- near n
rocky shore is as good as lost, unless
wind can spring up and enable her TO
beat out to sea. Many a ship has met
this fate. The reason many more do
not get lost is due to the gentle swell
that so deceives lardsman and warns
4 sailor.
As the ground sea" advances it
pushes a certain amount of water be-
fore it. This also forms into ridges,
like its pursuer. but of less height and
approximately no depth.
The false sea" as it is called, is lit
tie more than q rolling swell, but it
gives warning of from 20 minutes to
two hours duration, enabling a ship
to either run into port, get out to sea
side resorts the boatnen run close in
shore to the surprise of the ''trippers."
When 1t is remembered that wave
20 feet high which is often attained by
the ground sea- strikes with a force
of one ton to the square inch, the ne
cessity for caution will be recognized.
All wavey that come in parallel
ridges. however, are not dangerous, as
there is wind billow" that is closely
allied to the ground sea- in appear
ance.
wind pillows" are due to q heavy
w iit ing Dut u lew lilies Ou tuS
land, but as they have had but a COM
paratively short distance to travel they
have no depth. Consequently even
rowing boat is perfectly safe on them
if properly handled.
These waves usually appear when
there is comparative calm near the
shore, their great point of difference
from the ground sea-" in appearance
being that their unbroken lines are
nearer and are all equidistant. not
travelling liz threes.
Generally the wind billow" does not
break into foam, but casionally this
happens when they are coming in