Evening star., 1899-11-11

| States by mantua makers from the other
| side of the Atlantic who sold them there
! as Paris pattern dresses for 500 to $500
| each. OF course. the cost of the gown in
| Paris plus the expense of transportation
| and duty is the real cost to the America n
| importer bur that duty added to the orig
| mai sum still allows an enormous profit
Bought in Paris an brought home as part
Of the wardrobe. the American woman has
no additional expense on their account
Many Il dressmaker in the states gets her
modcis year after year by pretending to
supply herself with a Partisan wardrobe
Next year. when the attraction to Paris
VIII be so great and fares reduced there
VIII be thousands more who will resort +,
the same trick. These. with the genuine
private buyers, will swell the profits OF
dressmaking establishments enormously.
Latest Gut in skirts.
One change in the fashions that the earl
lest conner in 1909 may expect to see is >
new cut of the skirt. Fer some time the.a
have been striped plaid and plain contrast
1Es pieces inset in the backs of skirts In
Ihe case OF some smart tea gowns plated
pieces of chiffon have been go set in. In
stead ul contrasting material. plaits of the
same 1ahrlC as the rest Of the dress are
used. The folds are laid so as to shoy,
little on the surface. On which there is onI,
d slight iDifntatiOn. Some skirts are made
win Gerp box pIaits and others with part
~ tucked backs with deep pIaits in the cen
ter. \ piece of the cloth is usually shaDod
over tn" hips aui stitched across the back
I" mold the pldits down. Narrow tucks are
sometimes brought across the upper part
OF the back, giving a fUilneSS across the
AlFs and around the bottom of the skirt
Notifications Of this form are expected to
remain the fashion for some time This
VIII mean that many yards of material will
BE- required for a skirt which will, never
tfclesS, have tn" appearance of being com
Taratively tight fitting.
Jewcled Hooks and Eyes
Ultra chic members Of the ''grardc
monde are wearing jeweled hooks and
eyes on their clothing. Petticoats are kept
in place by large jeweled clasps, while gar
ters are no longer clasped, but are hooked
with gold or enamel hooks and eyes of
generous size. JcweIed hooks and eyes
clasp even the microscopic corsets worn
chains across the shoulders are used often
instead of sleeves. Girdles composed of
alternate links Of precious metals are fash
i0u&ble fp.lics that afford some ideas for
gifts for the holiday season.
Every day chenille trimming seems to
become more popular. It is seen on hats
and bonncts and dresses. Many of the
gowns are apparently piped with chenille
ana l4ceS and are richly outlined with it.
No velvet seems now TO be in demand save
the beautiful soft ''paune." which lends
such softaess 10 beautiful face.
Rrbins: of the New Queen
The other day at Lonechamps 1 saw the
newly enthroned beauty, Lame de Pougy,
and the lately dethroned Merode The new
Venus wore a gown of violet faced cloth
with an applique of scrolls on either side
the open, rounded tunic. The tunic reached
to the bottom OF the skirt which showed
rows OF cordInE upon its surface. The
sleeves were tight fitting and corded also
vest and collar of tucked white chiffon
over white satin was laced with white silk