New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1899-10-29
HOW PARIS WOMEN DRESS.
NEW DESIGNS IN SKIRTS ARE SEEN ON
ALL SIDES.
TIVE FIR COLLAR NOW DUBBED "ELDER1y' BY
PARIsIANs-THE PROPER THING
IN NECKWEAR.


Paris October 49,
The "bonne femme" phated skirt. seems TO
be gaining IN popularity. 1t is excellent model
for a walking costume. and presents a welcome
change in an OF TUNES which threatened 10
become monotonous With this skirt is often worn
a pleated boero. with the pieats stitched down In
the skirts too. the peats are generally stitched
dovr 70 about the knees and then allowed TO flare.
The material forming the sleeves may also be
pleated and stitched. The following model shows
how attractive q gown following these lines
may be:
The material IS blue Woo, spotted with dark
green The skirt IS peatal in the manner de-
scribed and has 10 trimmings save stitchings OF
green The bodice consists Of a front or blue
velvet covered with squares made by lines or
green stitching and over this is boero or the
wool composed sleeves and all OF stitched pleats.
This bolero has double reyeSs the foundation
revers are Of the wool cut with square edge. the
upper ones Of the velvet, being rounded. ught
velvet cuff half covers the lower part Of the sleeve
Blue pastel cloth is pretiy combined win "nne
In a house dress from the same establishment.
six rows of white satin of graduated widths are
used on the skirt. the bands being placed under
,ba clofh The bodice has a little bolero or cloth'
with an allover embroidery Of blue chenille ana
anplioued darker blue velvet This jacket Is cut
up In the back and hasong lapels' winch are Iaceo
with white satin and lace incrustatlons. Chder
This IS a blouse made OF lattceArork or white
satin ribbon. The pattern Of the embroidery on
tbis Jacket is the grape leaf and tendrli design,
which seems more popular at present than any
thing else II IS used IN an attractive manner on
long straight cape Of covert cloth Inc Ieaves are
cut out Of cloth and of brown velvet. and the de-
slen IS made hy half applqinng these. leaving
half Of the leaf loose. and by embroiderins the
tendrls in brown silk. This manner 81 leaving
the leaf partly free from the cloth - most effective
Lace cloth. a cloth perforated in a gupure pat
tern was one Of the novelties Of last season This
year step further in this direction has been taken
and there is now velvet imitation OF lace In
white this is used 20 face reyers. cuffs. ETC. and 10
form, entire boleros over cooTed lining. In black
&c vet there are only few examples OF this. one
Of the most popular being to form an entire tunic
over an underskirt Of colored satin. one gown mad
tunic over purple satin; fringe made Of purple
and black six finished it. and there was an edge
of sable about the hem OF the long dress skirt
The bodice had square empiecement Of turquoise
hlue velvet edged with sable. The satin composing
Il was dotted with tiny sprays OF black velvet. and
this was draped IN front 10 the corner OF the yoke
and held there with cluster Of sable tails
The time honorcl fashion Of inserting velvet
sleeves into cloth gown is 20 the fore once more
The fancy velvets with which the shops abound
are pretty used In this way. gray bensalhe Of
the shade called iron gray. has the tunic sashed
into points about the bottom and finished with
inch deep black silk fringe gray velvet. stamped
with black polka dots. makes the sleeves ana a
little pointed yoke. About the yoke is collar cut
into points and shaped 20 fall in front IN shawl
revers: this IS edged with fringe. This gown. Ike
the great majority now. IS finished with fold
n about the waist and worn without a belt
ID NEW DESIGNS N SKIRTS
y One could write long chapter on skirts alone.
The dressmakcrs seem 20 have taken courage and
as fast as one novelty IS launched it is succeeded
by another. \ novel skirt forms part Of tailor
made costume % zinc colored cloth In the back Is
wide box peat. stitched and over ms is Il
smaller plea LEFT free. The effect IS graceful ana
adds 20 the height Of the wearer. This new color
zirc-also deserves notice It is probably destined
10 become extremely popular II is as It's name sug-
gests blush gray There are really three shaoes OF
gray equally fashionable nOw-the zinc gray. the
iron gray and the silver gray But 10 return 10 the
costume Of zinc cloth. The skirt and jacket are
heavily stitched with bright blue; the Jacket Is
finished with piping Of blue velvet and fastened
with blue crystal buttons.
With walking costumes boas are 20 be worn OF
any shape or fur one prefers. Young women have
discarded "cos" and an short capes. Dressed up
with lace and ribbons they are considered as nm
adjunct TO visiting toilets only. ana thus az belong
ing TO the wardrobe OF a matron. French women
under that elastic age known as forty Will have
none OF them now. long roll OF fur. nnished al
one end with a saucy head and at the other with
bunch OF tails IS considered the only proper thing
70 throw about youthful shoulders Velvet too, has
grown 10 have an elderly suggestion. and as a
small proportion Of women to-day are elderly II
is going 70 he hard TO popularize the use Of velvet
Yet the dressmakers declare It to be the best and
most fashionable material for street costumes ana
that nothing else is 10 be worn.
II Is doubted II cloth will lose its popularity this
winter as the pastel cloths which became popular
last spring have proved 50 becoming They wear
well too and easily descend into the position OF
second best gown. form Of economy which b rev. FEW
women disposed 90 disregard. still II IS me
duty Of a chronicler Of Paris modes TO state That
velvet plain fancy Is supposed TO be the proper
material for any afternoon out Of door costume.
whether II be for shopping driving or visiting.
novelty for a dressy house gown Is shaded
cloth. The shades may from yellow 20 brown.
including tone OF green. These really pretuer
than the shaded silk in vogue few years ago and
Will probably become equally popular
FUR NEGLIGEE SLIPPERS
Among the extravagant frivolities Of the season
are fur neglgee slippers finished with big lace
bows and diamond headed pin. which is much
more fashionable than buckle. Others are OF vel
vet. trimmed with fur. novelty Is OF a fancy satin
trimmed with a bow each side OF the instep.
Decidedly nice for dress shoe is a patent leather
in the Louis XIV shape The heels covered Wit h
light blue leather. the nigh vamp IS lined with blue
which shows as a cord about the edge and there Is
buckle OF gold and blue enamel. Some Of the shoe