Brookings weekly register. (Brookings, Brookings County, S.D.) 1898-1903, 1899-02-23
STATE FARMERS
INSTITUTE
CONTINUED FROM FOURTH pAeN.

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The stitches in basting should be Just
far enough from the edge so as not to
be stitched in when the skirt is
scanned up. They should all slant and
not be very long, as the slanting
stitch holds the material into place
while with straight stitches the out
side will slip.
In basting the skirt together be
careful to place seams with the cor
responding notches together. Care
fully pin each seam before basting.
Begin at the top, holding the gored
edge trile looser than the straight
edge. II the straight edge is the
least bit loose the seams will pucker.
Stitch the seams with straight edge
uppermost, as 1t is much easier to
stitch straight when one can follow
the thread of the material. A seam
three-eighths Of an inch in width is
wide enough for skirts unless the selv-
edge is very wide, when the seam
must be wide enough to take in this
selvedge.
The raw seams should be overcast
and all the seams pressed open. The
placket is fixed by sewing straight
stripes two inches wide upon each side
of the opening and sewing each piece
on down the seam at least two inches.
Leave both facings loose, turning one
side back after the skirt has. been
gathered at the back, as you baste it
on the band. A placket fixed in this
manner, and after careful staying and
backstiching through the seam at the
bottom of the opening, is warranted
not to gap. Baste the skirt onto a
len gthwise piece Of silesia, four inch
es longer than waist measure; this
will allow for letting out in case the
band is too snug. The skirt must be
held loose in basting on the band.
Baste with the seam on the right side
aud holding the skirt toward you.
The skirt is now ready to hang, and
as much care is needed in fitting the
waist. The fitting includes having
the band the right size-the skirt fit
ting smoothly over the hips and still
be loose enough not to draw when one
sits down. If possible have someone
turn up one side of the skirt so that
1t is perfectly even and Of just the
right length. Trim the other side
by this, after carefully pinning the
seams together both top and bottom.
In putting on the velveteen stretch
neither the skirt nor the velyeteen,
simply hold the latter taut. Hem up
with twist, double silk waxed.
The band is finished off by basting
a strip of the outer material upon the
right side and stitching both it and
the lining in seam. Draw both
tightly into place over the seam, turn
in the upper edges and ends and baste
overland the ends, then stitch the
top through the machine. Fasten
with large hooks and eyes.
II the skirt is to have ripple, this
ripple unless very deep needs to be
interlined throughout, and a bias
piece Of the intsrlining at the lower
edge of the upper portion of the skirt.
This is needed to prevent its breaking
when the ripple joins the skirt.
The lining for the waist should be
crosswise OF the silesia, as then it will
not stretch the least bit. BY cutting
lining this way it brings the warp
threads running around and is easy to
have a straight thread for the waist
line, thus helping to prevent the
twisting of the waist. The Innings
should be basted up the front hens,
turned and stitched, and the hooks
and eyes securely sewed into place,
then fitted. All seams should be
basted up and down from the waist
line.
In basting the outside and lining
together the lining should be upper
most, basted just inside Of the trac-
ing, and held quite loose at the waist
line, so that as the waist curves over
the hips the material will still be
smooth and free from wrinkles. AT
ter careful fitting the seams must be
stitched and always with silk. Thread
is guaranteed to crack il subjected to
any strain.
The seams may be finished in a
number Of ways, simple over-casting
being the easiest and makes flatter
seam than any other finish. The
seams must be clipped at the waist
line and about an inch above to allow
them to spread when they are pressed
open.
The waist must again be put on in
order to trim out the neck, armholes
and the bottom; trim only one side,
.1.oouo IN rat,,1ly min fnnaf n or m 2fch.