The record-union., 1899-11-05

A new and stylish French walking
coat in Louis XVI. style is rounoeu
and much cut away on the fronts anu
has two under arm darts which extend
down over the hips. The coat nus as
closely to the figure as French riding
habit
The double-ribbed French whipcords
vie with the elegant Venetian anu
covert suitings in the making OF new
tailor costumes. The fabric is very
much like that used for mems coats,
the difference appearing in the softness
and lighter weight of the dress weaVes-
The style still largely prevails OF
using black with color as, for instance
a very handsomely made princesse
dress of rich plum-colored venetian
cloth, with trimmings of narrow black
fur and black silk cord ornaments en-
applique. while in contrast to these are
costumes of fine light ladies' cloth on
black, lined throughout with deep red
taffeta silk. The cut-down top and
open front of the bodice portion show
guimpe, sleeve-tops, and slightly
dl OOPiiS fCob VI sSsieiAA 1S~A ~ - "
black peau de sole.
Handsome fur trimmings of sable,
mink, or marten tails hanging like deep
fringe from yokes or rounded cape
collars of Russian velours or silk vel
vet overlaid with costly silk appliques
or heavy guipure lace are to be worm
Other furs of short fleece, seal, otter,
har, 6S a n
piled in scroll-like curves on black and
colored velvet and cloth costumes.
Sacoue shapes and other odd little jack
cts of these and other furs are brought
out in many of the shapes popular In
cloth, satin and velvet.
The importation of fancy velvets ana
French velours is uncommonly large
this autumn.
New collarettes are made of very
handsome designs in heavy satin mate
lasse, in rich Oriental color effects, with
wide circular f1ounce at the lower edge,
and a Medici collar Of mink, Persian
lamb, sealskin or other costly fur. by
the use of the matelasse, a very styllsn
shoulder covering may be formed by
using the best portions of fur jacket
or cape that has had it's day for the
graduated fiounce and standing collar.
AT any of the best pattern-houses are
to be found paper models in dozen
different, appropriate shapes. Some
of them have additional stole-fronts
which can be made of the matelasse,
edged with fur at the ends or of fur
alone.
One of the attractive autumn fabrics
is the Rochemont weave-a fine WOOL
rep, with dots of silk of another color,
and which though of pure wool is re-
markable for its lightness. 1t is used
for both gowns and dress trimmings
Another attractive material is a weave
of soft, delicate vicuna, with a rough
camel's hair figure raised on its sur
face. Hopsack cheviot is kind OF
basket-patterned wool, and is found in
brown, blue and black. This fabric
looks well trimmed with rows of BLACK
mohair gimp overlaid with tiny lines
of very fine gold braid Yet another
fabric is the Albemarle weave, which
looks more like a poplin than anything
else. and has silky stripes and dots in
both matchings and pretty contrasting
colors. A dainty feature also is the
Introduction of small colored brocaded
figures of some of the soft clinglng
black silks including peau de sole. and
very slightly dressed faille Francaise.
One of the latest shapes in erratic
millinery is called the Spanish turban.
1t Is almost an exact reproduction of
the headgear worn by Spaniards. The
brim is turned up all around and edged
with crumpled velvet. The trimmings
consist of large velvet bows. a brilliant
red bird, and large sparkling Rhine
stone buckle.
A very pretty dress" waist for the
theater, dinner parties, etc, is made of
black velvet, with a seamless back, and
single, very deeply arched front darts.
Accordion plated chiffon of creamy
tint over cream satin forms the gimpe
and it's extension vest-front, the waist
being open to the belt and cut down to
the shoulders. The upper edge is fin-
ished with bertha-like revers Of the
velvet, that are trimmed with jet ap-
pliques, which likewise decorate the
sleeves and pointed girdle. A more
elaborate model is formed of white
moire, with garnitures of black velvet,
overlaid with white silk passementerie
in openwork designs. The tops of the
sleeves are finished with an oddly shap-
ed cap of black velvet, bordered with