davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1899-04-01
Popular White Waist.
From the San Francisco Chronicle,

From the San Francisco Chronicle,
The white waist has been steadily in
creasing its list Of wearers all the season.
1t is now considered the thing par excel
lence for theater wear and other demi-
dress occasions. It must be exouistteIy
and stylishly made, but simply trimmed.
Fussy garniture of any sort simply ruins
the effect. The neck, may be finished with
lace tabot down the front, but anything
more except tucks or cords is superf1uous
White tulle for the neck in a scarf bow and
plating down the front is pretty finish
when 1t is becoming. The very 1lnest and
softest OF satin Is sometimes used, and
speaking Of white for waists, entire gowns
and all accessories win supplant the cream
and ecru tints so long in vogue. White
cloth gowns for afternoon affairs are con-
sidered quite the smartest of the season,
but their soiling properties make them
very expensive. however ideal and becoTn-
ing they may be.
1t seems the aim of the dressmaker now
to fashion skirts completely without seams
many of the newest models showing none
up the back.
Evening star., 1899-04-01
Pretty Evening Bodice.

lovely evening bodice-most useful as
well as smtrt-is of black jetted net draped
over white net. The sleeves, very small,
consist of drapery and frtll Of the net,
while the decolletage is trimmed with two
shades of velvet one a deep fame color
and the other deep yellow, the two
shades beautifully intermingled, and the
shoulders are formed into twisted upstand-
ing bows by means of ribbon wire An
other model In pale yellow silk has rows
of insertion bordered with very narrow
bands of fur, while another most fascinat- t.
ing bodice is of white satin, on which
groups of velvet pansies are woven at in
tervals. The sleeves are long and covered
with ruched pink chiffon, and a small vest
of the same is completed at the neck with
touch of dark reddish purple velvet.
Evening star., 1899-04-01

distinct ideas i'm spring gowns. Either they
are made with very long lines and are prin-
cess gowns or simulate that effect, or they
have such very short Jackets that the waist
line seems retreating toward the armhoie.
And right here is the weak point Of the
nobby little Jackets which have so recently
appeared and which are so popular at the
moment. 1t is almost impossible TO put the
waist line in the right place and preserve
the brevity Of the cut. Compared to the
long flowing lines of the princess and tunic
gowns they seem short. abrupt and some
times hardly graceful. But they are in
valuable for runabout and knockaboux
Evening star., 1899-04-01
Decorative Possibilities In Vines.

From the Womans Home Companion.
Vines, indeed, may cover multitude of
slns-foundations, bare walls, unsightly
board fences. often covered with signs, and
unpatnted sheds; vines may serve as
screens. and give privacy to the yard
vines may give a shady nook in the little
corner that has so often worried us to care
for. But, above all, vines may make our
houses homes indeed, adding grace and
beauty to even the stateliest mansion.
There Is such an endless variety of vines,
and most of them are so easily cultivated
that they appeal to the veriest novice or
the busiest housewife. In planting you
may have all of one kind or choose many
varieties. For quick effects over balcony
fence or screen the morning glory, moon
flower. nasturtium Cobaea scandens and
cypress vine give most pleasing effects
For slower and more permanent results are
the lvles, Woodbines, honeysuckles and
their kind,
Evening star., 1899-04-01
For Evenine Gown..

Every conceivable kind of net and gauze
and chiffon and mousseline de sole will be
pressed into service for evening dresses
this season. since the clinging draperies of
the present fashion necessitate the use of
soft fabrics such as these. For evening
dresses crepe de chine will also be largely
used, draped. as q rule. over soft oriental
satin, which will leave it free to fall into
those artistic and graceful folds which
give to the material Its chief charm. Some
of these crepe de chine gowns will be eIah-
orately embroidered in colored chenille. in
floral and other designs, a favorite French
notion being to represent punches or grapes
In their natural colorings. surrounded by
vine leaves and arranged against q trelBs
work OF gold.
Evening star., 1899-04-01

characteristic of this dainty garment. since
almost all OF those L have seen are rounded
on below the waist with a row Of them
More IN ths style of those coats to which
We nave been accustomed was the smart
jacket OF box cloth which L was shown by
one OF the ladies' tailors Of the Rue de la
Falx- Dove, tawn. black and navy are suit
able cOlOrs for the construction of tbis
coat That in which the model was mad, /,
was a delicate shade of fawn. II had wide
iapes. crossing the bodice little below the
lhrOat OF white silk bordered with three
rows of tasteful braid The collar IDe5
with Whlte silk, hared away from the face
IN pattern that suggested the outline of a
maple lear. so oddly was it indented Three
lows lows oI Drald crossed the Jacket on a line
from peneath the arm and were carri ID
around the lapel and below TO outline a
boiero- Rows of braid on the sleeves and
OF the Guns. with TWO rows about the edge
OF the coat. completed the decorations on
this chic and seryiceable garment.
The Coming Neck Fixinx..
Nothing l have seen has afforded me 81
much pleasure as the dainty neckwear pro-
vidsd for spring and summer wear. SILK
lace. chiffon. net and gauzy moussslines
make up these airy luxuries They are all
sizes, ranging from the petite colIarettes OF
much shirred chiffon to the costly fichus
long enough 10 reach TO the waist Lace
scaFIs from six to nine inches wide are
SHOWN, ana the most pleasing of these, too
orert,a -. any chlHons. white. cream. pink,
orange ana blue. with appliques of lace and
designs OF gathered lacs braid. As for the
StUcAs, NOT very high and with points OF
ne Gh9er the ears, they are to be seen in
modined abundance among the soft new
sooos- Ihe small turned-over collars which
appeared early in the winter do not seem TO
nave struck popular note. They are rem
resented by small turnovers upon special
st0cks- IN the corners of several of these
SANITY collars 1 noticed the application OF
She prevailing craze for appliques. trua
grounds. ~
Inere Is among these novelties for the
week new bow. called the leaf because
OF us many points and its general like
nesS 20 late autumn maple leaf. They
are made OF silk ruching edged. and nj
snusiy under the chin. Some of the mos
Evening star., 1899-04-01
Smart Summer Slippers.

From the Philadelphia Inquirer.
That all fashions move in a circle is at
tested by the fact that we are destined to
wear as the smart slipper of the season a
shape and material seen oft before. The
slipper is either black patent leather or
dull finished French kid, with red heel
and lining of red silk. There is nothing
surprisingly new about all this save the
three pretty points that run upon the in
step and the oval buckle of imitation dia-
monds and rubies that ara fastened at the
base of these points. So chaste but chic
style of foot covering naturally cannot
be worn without new hosiery, and the
stockings are undeniabiy very pretty. A
perfectly plain black stocking is now quite
questionable. Ankles must display Din
stripes of interviewer silk in three colors
and close set or openwork woven over a
color. or checks that are most elaborate
or a powdering of minute-colored flowers
Evening star., 1899-04-01


Neutral Shades Are Favored.
All the soft neutral shades are used for
spring gowns. Gray. fawn tan, violet and
some shades Of coral are evidently the most
popular. And there is scarcely a gown to
be made or being made about which there
is not a touch of white. The Parisians run
to black finish for street gowns, black
epaulets, a black collar or a black braid
trimming. But the cloth gown and the
shirt waist can both be called ours in the
triumphant sense that in these articles we
surpass the Partisan modistes Black is a
hard color and needs a radiant complexion
to carry 1t off when 1t is added as a trim
ming. White or cream is far more becom-
ing, and is especially suitable for the spring
of the year, when iightness and freshness
are objective effects in dress. There are
guimpes, yokes, chemisettes, collarettes,
collars and ties of white. white cloth, white
silk, white lace, and. above all, perishabie
chiffon.
As for trimming. everything is used, and
we hear that later the gowns will be even
more elaborately trimmed. An effort is be-
ing made to introduce silk fringes. The
word introduce is not quite correct. These
fringes have been in sight for over a year,
but have only been seen on a few smart
cloth gowns. Braids are used, but gener-
ally such narrow weaves as to be almost
cord. Cording itself is much In evidence,
although not to such great extent on
cloth gowns, as 1t Is more suitable for silk
weaves. Cloth cut away in regular pat
terms showing a contrasting color through
the interstices, is handsome ornamental
ton. But most suitable of all for the new
cloth gowns, especially for those with long
lines on the skirts or with tunic effect is
stitching. Just stitching and buttons:
nothing else gives quite the same effect
The severity is In keeping with the material
of which the garment Is fashioned. yet
as there Is always the white at the neck
the tout ensemble is not too plain for this
gay era of gowning.
Two Distinctive Styles.
1t is generally true that there are two
contrasting methods of dressing running
hx ci6 ona ,rf, sx,.aa a.
Evening star., 1899-04-01
OId-FasIiOned Bandboxes,

From the New York Herald
When grandmamma was young and in
veigled great-grandpapa into the purchase
of new bonnet it was invariably sent
home from the milliner's in huge band
bCx, which differed from the pasteboard
bonnet receptacle of today in that 1t was
superbly ornamented with floral designs AS
rule, these designs ran to carnations
moss roses and other fine old-fashioned
flowers. Some enterprising faddist, in cast
ing about for a motif, has whisked the ac-
cumulated dust of half a century from
these ornamental affairs and reinstated
them in popular feminine favor. No beau
tiful bonnet or hat is properly cased, ac-
cording to the strict leUter of the law Of
fad, unless deposited in one of the old time
befowered bandboxes.
Many of the leading milliners are ex-
hibiting them in connection with those
flower embowered aviares and velvet,
plume-tpped towers of their art and crea-
ton. The carnations and roses are printed
on fine, glossy paper, which has the effect
and appearance of watered silk, and the
sight of the decorated box Is well CAL
culated to subdue those tumultuous emo
ticnal outbreaks which are liable to occur
when the masculine eye is called upon to
contemplate the accompanying bill for the
boX's inclosure.
Evening star., 1899-04-01
n 0 u S E HOLD HINTS

orange baskets filled with sections of
the fruit taken out and piled UP, or or
anSe colored blocks of jelly poured in when
nearly hard, are at all times pretty addi-
uons to the table. In preparing the or
ange skins, wash and scrub first to free
them from any specks Of black or dust
ana then wipe dry. If handled basket
is desired, outline the handle first with a
sharp knife. cutting about the equator"
OF the orange but leaving the strip of ham,
Ole intact Carefully remove the severed
skin with the knife, then with a sharu-
Evening star., 1899-04-01
SOME PARIS STYLES
Dainty Little Jackets for Early
Spring Wear.
AIRY LUIURIES IN NECKWEAR
Smart Gowns and Hats Worn to
the Race Season Opening.
EMPIRE FANCIES RETURN
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.

Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
PARIS. March Is. 1899.
Among the new articles displayed for our
inspection and later patronage are the dain-
tiest of little jackets-made for those days
when the miIdness of the weather makes
almost any wrap a superf1uity. They are
short garments, falling only little below
the hips and fashioned from the lghtest
cloth. Cut in eye satisfying curves and
adorned with much embroidery and cleverly
applied braids their popularity is a fore
gone conclusion. Some of them are open
at the throat. the V-shaped front showing
q charming under arrangement of laces or
chiffons.
OF several such jackets. each most worthy
Of the consideration of serious-minded
shoppers, very handsome for afternoon
wear would be that of black velours, the
high. butterfly collar and wide lapels in
crusted with hand embroidery and silver
braid over velvet. Ruchings of chiffon fin
ish the collars and lapels and edge the
sleeves at the wrist beneath a single large
application of embroidery. A silver clasp
below the point of the lapels apparently
holds the jacket fronts in place
Quite novel jacket was of black velvet
with iapels and collar deeply scaHoped and
trimmed with rows of black ribbon put on
over white giace silk. The collar was quite
nigh, especially in the back forming a
background for the face and coiffure
Deep cuffs of white silk headed by three
rows of the black ribbon trimming gave
quite military finish to the sleeves. which
were fairly tight and set high and full upon
the shoulders The jacket was cut open
over the corsage in long, narrow V TO
snow a tichu or ruffied rows of guipure lace
Below 1t was finished Oft in large scauops
For Dressy Occasions.
dainty matinee coat had for its founda-
ton material very rich black peau de sole
1t was glove-fitting and thickly embroidered
in sequin JET, the pattern being a trailing.
Why affair. This coat was closed over the
eorsag4. where wide lapels crossed from
arm TO arm az the shoulders and narrowed
to line below the waist. Lapels and the
beautifully modelled collar were edged with
p4alted chiffon that made soft frame for
tIIe et5oroIdaF!. Inc bottom Of the Jacket
showed the lines of scaIlops seemingly
Evening star., 1899-04-01

full evening dresses. These silks are made
with a silvery, mottled ground, suggesting
moonlight Oh summer evening the SPAR
kle or the frost on winter window pane
or some equally poetical idea The black
pattern is put on the silk in the form of
broad stripes with intermediate dots tiny
bars or crescents brocaded on the white.
While the prevailing tones of our spring
gar garments are somewhat mNder, we have
stili with US the glittering splendor of Sc
quins, gih and paste ornaments and much
Jet Buckles, slides, ornamental buttons
and all the knickknacks which serve to
Clasp belt, bodice or fiounce are glitterins
on side counters preparatory TO a season.
doie appearance on gowns
Models From Real Artists-
With the opening of the Auteuil races the
outdoor exhibition OF smart gowns and
Jauhty miilinery increases. 1 especially re-
marked at the first of the races millinery
model which 1 ann sure came from IA
nous shop. 1t was a bonnet of oorn-color-
ed straw. the crown being trimmed with
black velvet ribbons brought round to form
strings. The center of the rather largo
frame was fitted with knot of red ya1vet
roses. 'ei'e'
The other model was also of yellow straw
on which clustered velvet bows comhjnine
Two OF the fashionable shades of blue The
crown consisted of a clever arrangement Of
SATIN and interiaced straw. The indantad
riin was nIied with clusters of the blue rib
bon velvet and small sprays of flowers
Hats trimmed with fowered emnira m.
terial are among the novelties and are ex
pected to be fater high in public favor
They are little startling. but as MANY of
the new summer goods display this same
striving for large patterns carried out in
Notwithstanding stripes and dull. rich
colored bouquets, the mode of the millinery
may not be SO doubtful as at first glance we
might consider it. Wv
CATHERINE TAIROT
Evening star., 1899-04-01
Elastic Belt. Fit Tighter.

The long tunic gown in the illustration is
held in place at the waist with one of the
new elastic belts. They are elastic, to be
sure. but they are fitted so very tightly
that they must be stretched to their fullest
extent to be put on. However. they are the
newest belt and highest in favor with good
makers of frocks, and that is all that need
be said. In some of the very latest walking
gowns there is a long oyerskirt, which may
or may not be part of the bodice. but
which always look as IL IL were part of the
waist. Instead of opening near the front,
so that the overskirt or tunic is cut away
on both sides, II opens on the side and the
tunic does also, thus hanging longer on one
side than the other. This irregular effect is
one of the most charming in the new cloth
gowns. and should be looked al carefully
by the lucky woman who has length of limb
enough to wear princess effects with effect.
MABEL BOYD.
Evening star., 1899-04-01

wear. That they are inexpensive is a mis-
take. The very materials OF which they
are made preclude the possibility. BESIDES
they are the fashion" and demand the
hand of the artistic to give them that enc
which is their greatest charm. That they
fill a long mourned want who can deny
They are meant to impart softness ana
grace to the severe outline Of the prized
tailor-made garment, whose severity should
have made it impossible to any woman over
thirty.
There is nothing which so accentuates the
fact that a womans beauty is heeting as
one of these severely simple creations from
the fashionable tailors. AS women Of all
ages and conditions have insisted on dom
ming the garment without regard to its
appropriateness skilled costumers, who
would have even the haggard dame of sixty
satisfied with their work hit upon the de-
vice of softening the lines of the race by
framing it in with fllmy collar and tchu
of the sheereSt materials. Not only are
these creations of lace and mousselines a
boon to the bony and wrinkled faced wear
ers of tailor-made frocks, but they are like
wise a blessing to the woman of many en-
gagements and few gowns. With haf
dozen collars, fichus and scarfs the woman
of the most moderate wardrobe may i'm
press at least the not too critical mascu-
line eye with the idea that she possesses an
infinite variety of garments.
Brown n Popular Shade.
OF the popular spring colors. brown seems
booked to carry off the palm. So many
shades are seen in the shops that one
might wear different gown of that hue
every day for a fortnight and still be in
the fashion Gowns are made up in COM
binations of the shades which are restful
and satisfying to the eye after the era of
violent contrasts in which We have lately
been plunged. Mandarin orange, Parma
violet, Italian red, nasturtium red and
various neutral shades of gray challenge
the admiration in every shop on the Rue
de la Pafx and in almost every carriage in
the BoiS. Many are the combinations in
which we are asked to accept these rich
and delightful colors, but there Is a more
delicate tone pervading the color schemes
than We have had, and for small mercies
let us be thankful
To Enhance MatrOniy Charms.
To my mind nothing could be handsomer
Tor those good-looking matrons of snowy
Evening star., 1899-04-01
CLOTHS, NOT SILKS
Up-to-Date Street Dresses Must Be
of Wool.
TOUCH OF WHITE With SOFT COLORS
Short Jackets Not Becoming to
All Figures.
BELL SKIRTS AND TUNICS
,ecial Correspondence of The Evening Star.

Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
NEW YORK, March 30 1899
On one of the bright spring days of the
past week, on the street which is the CEN
ter Of the greatest retail shopping district
of our republic, there walked a pretty wo-
man In gray silk gown. Nearly every
other woman turned to look at her. Ger
tainly the gown was properly cut and fitted
and prettily made, but it was silk and it
was being worn shopping. 1t is not that
every one must wear just what others wear
but the use of silk for shopping gowns is
not popular now, although in midsummer
women who come In to the hot city to
spend the day are often attired in cool silk
gowns. The attention she attracted was
because of the rareness of a silk gown on
the streets. Everything is cloth. All the
latest models of spring gowns are of light
weight cloth, and although one hears of
silk and wool combinations and later will
certainly see them, nothing Is quite so safe
TO recommend to an anxious inquirer after
the mode than lightweight cloth.
Home-Mades Are Cheapest.
One can buy soft, beautiful weaves at al
most any price ranging up to s. per yard,
but then one can also buy cloths made of
wool, with hardly any shoddy in Them for
less than dollar. 1t is true these cloths
are not imported. They are made on this
side of the water. And they emphatically
need sponging. no matter what the clerks
may say to the contrary. Some of them
shrink four inches in the process, and that
is certainly proof enough that unsponged
they would succumb TO the first rainstorm.
But once the objections of the salesman
to ones taking a step which makes dress
SO seryiceable that another may not be
needed soon as he would wish to sell 1t
are overcome the way is easy. So rabid on
tl,a of Shpir lripr haxr hp-
come who have gone to the seashore and
there seen even their challie negliges lose
three or four inches in length that 9ne of
them whom L know threatens to have her
challieS sponged if she can find any one to
do it without running the satin stripe And
as for drap dete and all the other lovely
Evening star., 1899-04-01

gowns and preserve the coat and skirt
which have grown to be a part of the ward
robe of every well-dressed woman.
OF course, there is the bolero, If one does
not want one of the oddly shaped little
Jackets, and then there is the fiy-front
jacket, which is as pretty as ever, only
shorter. Indeed, it remains to be seen
whether with the advancing season these
old friends will not usurp the present popu-
larity of the little short Jackets, which re-
seuble nothing much as beetles wings
when they are cut without the front bias.
and which are apt to look too short-waisted
when they are fitted to the figure.
Evening star., 1899-04-01
To Enhance Matroniy Charms.

To my mind nothing could be handsomer
Tor those good-looking matrons of snowy
couture who are content to take the years
as they come than the striking new even
ing silks in black and white They are
suitable quite as much for bodices as for
Evening star., 1899-04-01
Circular skirts Back Again.

All the skirts are circular. Every one re-
members the shocking habit circular skirts
used to have of sagging on the sides. Now
that they are made SO long all around per-
haps it won't matter much when they
do sag, but their peculiar habits In this
respect are an added argument In favor OF
material so well sponged that II viii neither
shrink nor stretch. The circular skirt Of
the present flares gracefully about the feet,
but about the hips. it is needless to remark,
it fits as tightly as can be. If IL is fastened
in the back there are patent fastenings to
be had. which are invisible, and which keep
it in place. The straps or buttons In sight
over the placket hole are purely orna-
mental. Many of the skirts are made with
separate Innings. In such cases. If stitching
is used for ornamentation a wide hem is
turned around the bottom, and Ii is stitched
with as many rows of thread as the taste
of the wearer dictates.
Overskirts Are ssTunfcs" Now.
When a tunic effect is used the underskirt
is of the lining and simply faced with cloth
on the right side far enough under the
tunic to hide the lining. Sham skirts were
always a trial, but to have a cloth skirt and
over that a cloth overskirt is to support a
backbreaking weight. SO buy the very
hghtest possible Innings and eliminate all
the cloth possible with good showing, and
even then you will sigh for the care free
and light days of plain skirts. OF course,
when instead of an overskirt the overdress
is a princess and all in one, and IL coat
which may be taken of to show a silk
waist there is no help for 1t. Two thick
nesses of cloth must be there. The skirt
must be cloth to the waist, and then there
is the cloth of the princess coat over that.
But this princess coat, rounding off in front
to show the underskirt and finished with
big buttons which fasten IL at one side. is
so very beautiful and so very desirable that
its wearer can bark back to the old adage
Of n