The times., 1899-10-22


crowning glory - 30 a Rhinestone sun
burst set inside az the base Of the brim.
where it fares Up from the face
The sunburst is really the cornerstone
around which the properly designed Di-
rectoire is built. and aside from its virtues
as an ornament. il serves the noble rur-
pose Of bracing back the brim so that it
forms the proper sort % arch above the
face. Whether the crown Of the Direc-
tOire rakes exaggeratedIy forward OF not.
whether the whole hat itself is composed
OF velvet that is Of the commonplace
weave OF that variety known as antique
are almost uuimportant details 10 the won
an who has staked all her claims 10 beauty
on her strings The Directoire that is q
force in the millinery realms always has
strings, but as you hold dear your hopes
Of looking your best IN your new winter
hat, don't invest in ribbon strings
Nothing is more difficult 20 dispose be-
comingly about the face than broad dOu-
ble-faced satin scarfs. no matter If the
satin is the richest and sOftsst you can
find The requisite effect. indeed the only
effect. is to be had hy the use OF chiffon
or liberty crepe or mOiines net. or. II you
can AFFORD = good, delicate kind, lace
sCarfs.
When fashionably disposed the hat
strings are invariably draped and one is
half a yard shorter than the other; this
is. Of course. the left hand string When
a directoire is pinned in place its soft ehif-
fOu right-hand streamers is east across the
bust in loop 10 the left shoulder: there
it meets its mate and they fasJen to the
shoulder Of the gown with an ornamental
brooch; from this pCint they flow down to
the waist line and fasten again. while
their ends drift in uneven lengths one TO
the knees, the other nearly to the feet
On sumptuOus calling gown, OF that
strange, SOFT color called faded leather.
strings of creamy lace. dTaped as described.
are invaluable agents for decoration. Some
times the hat streamers are very long and
fall in an airy chiffon cascade down tho
front Of the gown, and an exceedingly long.
light silk fringe gives them a fashionable
finish
Moired velvet is one Of the few fabrics
We have never seen before. and that is
coming to the front as a goods for hand
some. simple trained skirts % wear with
fancy theatre waists and il comes most
aptly into play for ornamental collars.
belts rever facings. hat folds. and OFna-
mental waistcOats. We do see here AMI
there whole gowns Of it. and one OF the
most attractive bridal costumes made for
an October wedding was all Of white molrs
velvet hung with white silk fringes Of di-
yers lengths.
Turning over other interesting coutrihu-
tious OF the manufacturers TO the hoards
Of fabrics turned out this autumn. we ind
a strongly appealing novelty under the ap-
prOpriate title of laTc- en-ciel for it is
hne white cloth so wonderfully dyed that
an opalssceut rainbow stripe. now appear
ing. row disappearing like the cOI0rs In
shot silk, runs through every width L'arc-
eu-CisI has been put forward especially FOR
the makeup Of theatre and reception
gowns while it is not little used for the
troupes Of bridesmaids now in dressmakers'
hands. Most pOpularlY it is garuished with
lines Of clear brown fur, mink, Alaska sa-
BILE etc, and heavy cream cluuy and Re
naissance lace.
Running over row Of covetabIe toilets
at any Wide-awake drsssmaker's. the in
ference is clear that something is being
used TO break the shoulder line. TO relieve
the hatness Of the upper half Of the sleeve
where il enters the armhOIe- Many waists
show rigid tucks at the shoulders. Every
where is denoted a rsprehensibie tendency
to break the sleeve line with round tecora-
ton on the upper or the forearm. else at
the elbow little friu runs round the arm
or lace extends in a long close cuff.
Beyond these criticisms none but fat
tering comments are 10 be made OF
dress waists as they now reveal them
selves and powerful as have been the
effort to coax women to accept more
decorations C1 their skirts. the waists
of the majority Of gowns continue 70 steal
all the real glory and color Of the costumes
On some Of them the most intricate and
r-T- Heel
adopted, and, as one Of the accCupauying
illustrations reveals. the waist Of a cloth
gown viii open its velvet faced revsr collar
first to reveal a waistcOat OF soft striped
silk. and inside this a second vest Of satin
oyerlaid with lace. upon which is draped.
through jeweled buckles, a uecktie Of lib
erty satin. What with the barrel-shaped
buttons and the stitching On the little
cloth garment itself, the waist of this
pearl grey cloth suit reflected seven differ
eut but perfectly accOrdant c0I0rs and
five different fabrics.
Scores Of the pretuie=t costumes made up
SO far have illustrated a general tendency
of the modiste 10 harm0uiEs in one suit
variations Of a single color. For example.
a thrush brown camel's-hair viii have its
waist Crnamented with a great collar Of
quite golden brown silk. upon which is laid
a yelling OF tea-Jinted gUipure- the whole
girdle and bows of sable brown velvet
and the apex OF this symphony in brown
viii be a tucked CT plain high collar and
frOntlet of pale gold colored silk IL re-
quires careful hand true eve for color
TO compile one of these mismatChei dress
es, as they are denomiuated in the dress
making veruacUlar, and not fall into very
erroneous arrangements in many greens or
selected blues.
There are apparently at this stage in
ClOthesland only two details ia the max
ing of a dress waist which. IL followed
viii render gown bCUelsssIy uuf1shioR-
able. One is to cut the sleeves fun ar the
top, the other is to allow any length or
bodice below the waist line. Otherwise
YOU are free to make the body 20 yo1r new
fall dress as your own sweet VIII dictates.
and do what you VIII you cannot get be-
hind the times Big revers and little ones.
a slightly POUched front or q fat O17 O-g
sleeves TO the knuckIe, or those to the
wrist beu-shaped Guns OF none at all are
each and every one modes OF the tine most
timely, and bOlerOs and vest effects and
short jacket backs and yok5s and kercGies
arrangements cannot really BE- PLACED any
one before the other in the lists o. p-P--
larity.
What fills the soul of the lover of neck
novelties with JOY UncouEue3 is the high
stiff dark velvet stock tEat hooks beltni
bat shows two rows OF glitterIng Iitt but
tons running up the back This is fasren-
Cd about the neck OF any gown and then a
satin ribbon OF some pale color is slipped
about the throat at the top Of this collar.
and inside it. drawn TO the front and tied
so chat it's ends. garuished with tabs OF
the most delicate white point lace. fasten
in bow criS1 as q fresh own white rose