davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1899-05-26

source of great misunderstanding and
jealousy Where the pupils elect one
of their number to represent them
popularity or skillful eIectioneering,
in which the members of the faculty
are often as active as students, de-
cides the selection. Where speakers
are selected by the faculty expedien-
cy more than ability often influences
results. Those pupils with useful so
cial position, family connections,
wealth or political influence are most
frequently brought forward on the
platform, SNUG and self satisfied while
real worth sits unnoticed in a corner.
The graduating exercises are general
ly planned with an eye to final pictur-
esque effects. In some schools those
of great personal beauty or grace and
able to dress the part well are given
prominent positions. Where the dis
tribution of honors is graded accord
ing to class work the greatest salts
faction results, but this course is sell
dom taken, as good students are often
poor in composition and elocution.
Even when that plan of selection is
nominally followed the difficulty of
getting rid of incompetentS is often
overcome by other means.
When flowers are allowed to be sent
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1899-05-26

of servitude that centuries of ernanci-
patton find it hard to wipe out.
To certain extent care of the hands
will eradicate hereditary traits. 1t is
not possible to change the shape of the
hands, but it is possible to modify the
quality of the texture of the skin. OF
course the original youthful hand is
what I have been referring to, not as
modified by the owners individual toll.
The disfigured hand of a baseball play
er, of course, is no indication of the
character of the owner or his forbears.
Many men and women otherwise re-
gardful of their appearance are alto
gether negligent about their hands.
There is nothing that so surely indi-
Gates a lack of innate refinement as
black trimmed, ill kept nails and soiled
hands.
shapely hand is the gift of nature,
but an unshapely one is as often as not
the result of carelessness- Red and
puffy ones result from wearing gloves
which are too tight. The best gloves
to wear are those of kid, buckskin, doe
skin and the like. If a comfortable
glove is not selected, the blood will not
circulate.
Excessive bicycle practice, lifting
heavy objects and constantly wearing
rings that are too small will inevitably
result in disagreement. Bracelets worn
so tight as to affect the circulation or
so loose as to rub the wrist joint will
prove injurious.
Violent handshaking is injurious and
for this reason is avoided by many peo-
pie IN public life.
Partisan women bestow much care on
their hands and have acquired a repu-
tation for the beauty of their appear
ance.
Hard water is sure to injure any skin,
hand or face. Great care must be taken
in the selection of soap. Ill made creams,
too, injure and redden the skin and pro-
duce a leathery appearance. Pure soap
is white in color, and its best odor is
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1899-05-26

crepons, chiffon, crepe de chine, net,
null, gauze and silk are some suit
able fabrics that may be chosen.
Soft, white wooden goods are pre-
pared for many fair graduates and
admit of an elegant simplicity. The
chiffon ruchings, put on the gowns in
pretty designs, give a chic yet youth
full effect to the costumes. The bands of
ribbon about the waist are always fin
1shed with rows of chiffon ruching at
the end of the ribbons. Plain and dot
ted swiss, lawn, organdie, nainsooks
and embroidered muslins are pleasing
in effect when seen on the platform
and combined with plenty of white
ribbon Lace is much used in trim
ming the commencement garments, as
on all other light gowns at this sea-
son. On skirts it is made to simulate
the long tunic or tablier draperies.
In having a commencement gown
made, if the Wearer is to appear upon
the platform, it should be remembered
that its length should be more than
that usually allowed, because, viewed
from below, it will appear shorter
than it really is. Besides, the less
seen even of we'll shod and shapely
feet the better the effect The present
manner of making gowns, with short
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1899-05-26

the perfect fitting stays would be chic
and stylish.
Standard corsets are made of four
materiaIs-broche batiste, embroider-
ed batiste and French and domestic
coutils. The last are the least expen-
sive, ranging in price from IS to SO.
Embroidered batiste comes high, cost
ing anywhere from IS to $45. All
styles are supplied with stocking sup
porters and hooks, which are often
times gold, for holding down the pet
ticoat. Fashions in corsets change
each year in accordance with the
new figure" which makes it's annual
debut. Last year the lines of the Venus
de Milo were followed. showing a big
waist, an unsupported bust, untram-
meIed hips and altogether a sort of
free and easy wabble, which in polite
parlance was called the natural fig
ure." To produce this effect, corsets
were cut very low in front, short on
the hips and sparsely boned.
This season marks a revulsion of
feeling and we aim at slender, vase
like proportions. To bring about such
result and conform to the require
ments of sheathlike skirts and trans
parent bodices we have with US
a slim corset in which to mold
the fashionable figure of 1899. The
corset in question has an absolutely
straight front, which crowds down the
abdomen. being assisted in this duty
by strong stocking supporters at
tached either side of the middle Steels-
It is pulled down over the hips and
measures two inches longer than
those of last year. This Characters
tic has a tendency to push the hips
back, giving the fat front so desira-
BILE. The upper portion of the new
corset is also of greater dimensions
and inclines to hold the bust up. This
combination of whalebone and coutil
produces that topping tower effect
which makes me fear that the pin
back is to be resurrected from the
dead ashes of a disgraceful past.
The foregoing is an outline of the
accepted model, which is heightened
or shortened to suit the figure of the
purchaser. These points are decided
by the manager of the department,
who instructs the filter in regard to
alterations, losing no line of grace
thereby. There is another style, some
what longer, built on the same plan
and designed for women who would
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1899-05-26
PARTING. of the Arabs.

Instrumental music is the sole prov
ince of nomadic professionals, but all
Arab girls are taught to sing, and both
men and women alike love music and
poetry. In fact, poetry, music and
sweetmeats give occupation and amuse-
ment to women of the we'll to do class.
Smoking is INDUCED in by men, women
and children of all classes. The popular
drink is sour milk, and the people love
to feast on ostrich eggs. the red birnee
dates and the currantlike MESA berries.
The most familiar forms of animal
life to the average child are the ostrich
and the camel, except. perhaps, the
horse, which is still first of the brute
creation in the eyes of the Arab. OF
vegetable life, the one form with which
every Arab child is thoroughly familiar
is the date.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1899-05-26

as celebrated has long ago led me to
the conclusion that they are perni-
cious in their influence. 1t is an effort
on the schools part to challenge pub
lie attention by the show it makes in
the closing exercises. Outsiders who
do not know how commandments are
prepared in most schools, how teach
ers toll for weeks beforehand to make
the most of the pupils literary efforts,
even to entirely rewriting the COM
mencement thesis, essay, poem or ora
ton, would find admiration for these
effusions considerably lessened if
they knew the truth. After the best
that can be done has been accom-
plished with the written part of the
work the commencement performer
goes through weeks of the most arGu-
Gus drill under the elocution teacher.
Every position, every gesture, every
word and tone is studied until there
is no more originality in the students
work than in a patchwork quilt. The
participants are. supposed not to tell
that they had any help in their work
"a fine groundwork for the encour-
agement of deceit.
The choosing of the young women
who are to appear before the public
in most educational institutions is
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1899-05-26

to graduates, each one is anxious that
she shall not be neglected, and her
friends often tax their resources Sc
verely at this time of the year to sup
ply a half dozen fair girl friends with
appropriate floral tributes on the day
of graduation.
In this atmosphere there is little to
benefit the student, and those schools
in which the students take no part in
the public exercises at closing have
adopted a sensible plan.
Fortunately at present the tendency
is to reform such wrongs. Commence
ment exercises are being made more
interesting to the majority of the
guests and the students themselves by
having distinguished persons instead
of students make the addresses. The
graduates therefore have only to con-
slider what to wear, and apropos of
that it is interesting to know that the
fashion of the present season COM
mands pure white garments, cream
or ecru ones being not CONNIE ii faut.
Thin, gauzy materials are the most
modish. Stirring, tucking, frilling and
applications of lace and insertion
serve to make them as elaborate as
the purse will admit Silk and wool,
poplin, nuns yelling, challie, bereges,
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1899-05-26

She can laugh with her lips, make a
man think she is the merriest cricket in
the world, while her eyes are full of I'M
shed tears and her heart is beating as
if it would burst. She can forgive a
great sin like an angel and nag a man
about petty vice like a fury. She can
do up old frocks and wear them with
cheerful heart that she may help some
body. and she can spend the first money
that she really feels she can use for
herself in going to a matinee or on
sweets when she needs a new pair Of
shoes.
She can quiet a baby with one or two
reassuring pats when a man might al
most knock the life out of it, give it a
whole bottle of soothing strip, and it
would still be open eyed and aggressive.
She can cry out her troubles on a mans
shoulder and feel a relief that is only
possible from masculine help, and ten
minutes later she can laugh in that
mans face and wonder what men were
made for.
What can't she do? She will never be
able to resist either the man or the baby
who has got the love of her heart.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1899-05-26

trains, will cause the commencement
gown to look even better than usual.
Most girls feel self conscious and awk-
ward in public, and anything that will
help to conceal lack of grace should
be hailed with joy.
In trimmings white all over Main
sock embroideries, fancy tuckings
with guipure, mechlin, va1encienneS
and renaissance laces are all suitable
for graduating costumes.
White glace gloves and white glace
slippers are a part of the outfit, and a
dainty fan, usually the gift of some
friend; a sheer white handkerchief,
and a bouquet, and the sweet girl
graduate is equipped for her triumphs.
In most colleges the closing exer-
cises include a class day entertain
ment, commencement concert and a
baccalaureate sermon, for all of
which new gowns are usually provid-
ed. 1t is therefore a season of very
serious expense in many households,
and the general conclusion of p4ter-
familias is that it is a bore and a null
sance, but to the girl it is one of the
great occasions of life, and so long as
there is an ample pocketbook to pay
the bills, what matter?
ELLA MATTHIESSEN.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1899-05-26
VIII You Marry Met

Few women outside of royal person.
ages ever popped the question" to
man, and perhaps only one has had the
experience of being rejected by a man
without having proposed to him. That
there was one is evident from the pub
lished memoir of DR.. Jowett of oxford.
The master of Balliors personality was
potent and penetrating, and good wom-
en- felt it's fascination. An undergrad
uate was i'll in the college, and his sis
ter, coming to oxford to rurse him, was
invited by DR.. Jowett to stay at his
house. She received from him the ut
most kindness and attention and when
leaving said, with much hesitation, that
she would venture to ask a very great
favor. She again hesitated. The mas
ter grew uneasy and looked interroga-
tive.
will you marry me?" at last she
asked.
He paced up and down. blushed deep
ly and replied:
THAT would not be good either for
you or me-"
"Oh, OH" exclaimed the young wom-
an, blushing even more deeply. Il meant
to say 1 am going to be married, and
would you perform the service?"
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1899-05-26
Photograph Banished.

Photographs seem to have almost had
their day, to judge from the we'll fur
nished drawing rooms and sitting rooms
one enters nowadays. No longer is the
piano a sort Of stall, such as one sees
at charity bazaars, simply covered and
Uttered with photographs and frames Of
every description, but in their place one
sees delicate water color on an easel,
a rare piece of china or some other OBJ
ject of art. And the reason for this
change is not far to seek, for, although
it is true that a photograph may posi-
bly, be an object of art, yet the majority
can hardly come under that designation
So, though we may still like photo
graphs of those we love, to recall their
features to our memory, yet they are
now generally to be found shut up in an
ornamental box, ready to be shown when
asked for, or else we keep them in our
own especial sanctum for our eyes only
or for those of our intimate friends who
treSpaSS there.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1899-05-26

and the sword. They were diligent in
war and were not ashamed to do for
themselves work which many a modern
parvenu would consider beneath his
dignity. Their hands, therefore, while
well shaped, were large and strong. The
ladies of the castles were skilled needle
women and adopts in the making of
pastry and the connection of healing
medicines from herbs. Their work,
however, was all of the lighter sort,
such as would develop the muscles in
harmony, and all were taught that the
first duty of gentlefolk was the care of
the body. The peasant, toiling in the
fields or dragging stones and logs to
build the masters stronghold, was
marking face and limbs with the stamp
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1899-05-26
PICTURESQUE GOWNS FOR THE SWEET GIRL GRADUATE.

~ OW comes the season when the
NV college girl prepares to lay
VI aside her schoolbooks and her
illusions. Well, perhaps the
modern matriculating maiden
hasn't so many illusions to part with.
Boarding school life is apt to knock a
good deal of nonsense out of the head
of the average girl, as well as other
cObwebs from the brain Of young wo-
manhood that we prefer not to see
brushed away; that is, if we care any
thing for the young woman herself.
We who are worldly wise and have
seen a quarter of a century of COM
mencement seasons roll around since
our own like to think of the girl grad
uate as the ideal, standing with re-
1uctant feet where the brook and river
meet" but, it is to be feared, that
gentle creature whom the poet inn
mortalized would be sadly shocked
by the self confident young person
deeply versed in the "ologies' that
the modern womans college sends
out. There is little reluctance about
her thick soled calfskin shod feet. She
plunges into life with vim, and her live
illness makes her seem more whole
some than the others reluctance.
Observation of commencement days
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1899-05-26

Girls who decline offers of marriage
are apt to cut the proposer afterward,
for him as the feeling that somehow
they have sighted him by their refusal.
This only makes the situation more I'M
comfortable, inducing the rejected one
into belief that his presence is distaste-
full, which is not always the case. A
girl should treat a rejected sutton as a
friend and never by word or deed refer
to his proposal. But to resent him en-
tirely-unless there are serious reasons
for such pointed behavior-is, to say
the least, unmannerly. Rather should
he be treated with consideration, and If
this be done in a tactful way it viii
mitigate the disappointment much.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1899-05-26

ma OF so many years ago it was the
" exceptional woman who had
vi her corsets fitted. Nowadays
the rule works the other way,
for every first class shop has
its corset department under the su-
pervision of a figure expert, who sug-
gests the particular style suited to
your physique and superintends the
fitting. 1t has ever been a privilege
of the few to have their own corset
maker, and to such need not be told
the advantage in comfort and appear
ance derived from wearing well fitted
stays. but to those who have never
utilized the services of maker or filter
I say, seek the experience at once;
it is we'll worth while. The virtues
and vices of the corset are a thread
bare theme, which shall here give
place to the more pertinent discus
sion of kinds and varieties in vogue.
If by chance you make the trip to
Paris you do not go first to Napo-
Icons tomb, but to one of those freaky
courtyard places where modistes hive
like bees. You want a frock. You
state your errand. Madame gracious
ly listens to your plans and then
bluntly asks to see your corset. It is
not good. Everything, the modiste ex-
plains, depends upon the way you are
girt up, and she must refuse to fit a
frock over such stays. Before You can
say nay, a small girl is dispatched
around the corner The corsetiere ap-
pears, tape in hand. She hauls down
the front, loosens the strings at back,
forming pleasing outlines to conceal
the bust deficiency, and you are told
More like dees, and the madame
will be Vraie charmante."
Once you yield to such temptation
the corset habit grows. and none but
the genuine made to order will sat
isfy. You come to greatly admire
yourself as a new figure. Fortunately
it is no longer necessary to go corset
hunting in Paris. Just go to any big
store and find your way to a light,
broad floor, where silk, satin, lace and
elastic corSetS flourish, and enact the
transformation scene on your own
stamping ground. If you have $50 to
spend for a frock and your corset is
passe, get a cheap frock and a fine
corset. The result will justify the ex-
penditure- The most expensive dress
will be commonplace over an i'll fit
ting corset, while one of calico over
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1899-05-26
opics of
Interest to
Wo177ankiQd,
Such Is Woman.


In every known country in the world
woman is regarded from a different
standpoint. Her status has been graph
ically and terseiy defined by Nine. de
Lambert, who expresses herself thus to
her compatriots:
The one most indefinable being in the
world is woman. Carry your thoughts
over the different nations of this globe
and you will scarcely find two women
alike in their ideas on that subject.
In Africa woman is a slave, cringing
under a savage master.
In India and China she is an animat-
ed machine, wound up simply to min
lister to the pleasure of some ugly bah
oonish man.
In Turkey she is a pretty, jeweled
plaything generally bought in the mar
ket), easy to lose and therefore has to
be kept strictly guarded under lock and
key.
In Spain she is somewhat of a dam
gerous enemy, whom it is advisable to
shut up now and then.
In Russia she is sad, miserable
companion, whom it is considered good
to beat from time to time.
In Poland she commands.
In America she tyrannizes.
In France she is adored as divinity
when she is not set to work in the fields
or to sweep the streets.
IN England she is generar'y on a SUBJ
missive equality-esteemed, admired,
loved,
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1899-05-26
How to Care
For. the Hands,

Queen Elizabeth, the royal coquette,
was very proud of her soft, white hands,
and they were never forgotten by the
courtier who wanted to pay more than
usually acceptable compliment to the
queen. Whenever Elizabeth wished par
ticularly to captivate a favorite court
Ter, he was permitted to kiss the royal
hand Indeed there was great deal of
hand kissing in the days of Queen Eliz-
beth, and gloves were not then a part of
court dress. Gloves came in with a
queen of less lovely hands.
Now it is not so easy to have a beau
tiful white hand as one might suppose.
The perfect hand is thought to be an
indicator of good breeding. No woman
behind whom is line of peasant an
cestors is likely to have a perfectly
shaped hand, blue veined, taper fin
gered and covered with soft, thin, white
skin. The thin, beautifully shaped nails
help to tell the story of gentle birth.
The peasant type of hand is broad, with
short, thick fingers, badly proportioned
as a rule and finished off with nails that
no amount of manicurfng will cause to
look clear and thin. The skin, too, will
be of thick, rather coarse texture and
the knuckles unduly prominent.
A small hand is not necessarily a
beautiful one. George Eliot. who had
lovely hands, had very large ones, but
they were beautifully shaped, and the
skins texture was fine. The idea that
the hand of an aristocrat should be
small is a mistake. During the middle
ages the monks in the converts were
the only ones who did not regularly do
manual labor, and even many of them
worked in the fields Exercise will in
crease the size of the hand, but labor
will deform it. The great mobiles were
accomplished in the use of the spear
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1899-05-26

sacrifice the waist measure to abdom-
inal symmetry. For such folk would
advise the last year model, which is
adapted to stout figures, as it better
preserves the proper proportions.
Among the novelties in the corset
line is a combination affair consisting
of corset, knickerbockers and petit
coat particularly designed for wear
with the tight skirt or classic tunic.
The corset is of blue satin cut after
the latest model, terminating in
Knockers covering the knee. Just be-
low the hip line null petticoat is at
tached by wide beading. All surplus
fullness is eradicated in the conStruc-
ton of this eccentricity, and it is sup
posed to fit skin tight. AS the embodi-
ment of grace it is a failure. but as a
foundation for the close skirt it may
be called a neat job
For the Grecian costume, which has
a certain following among modish
people who have much magnificent
flesh or Cleopatralike round limbs,
an elastic brassiere has sprung into
prominence. The back of it is COM
posed of narrow rubber bands extend
ing under the arms to meet Iacelike
bust forms running up over the Shout
der. The diaphragm is left absolutely
full. A series of rubber bands begins
again at the waist line, coming down
well over the abdomen and greatly re-
ducing its size.
For neglige wear there are satin
bust supporters, cluny lace brassieres
and chiffon underwaists innumerable,
for the long or short WASTED madam,
the svelte maiden, or her superior sis
ter, the golf girl.
Satin corsets are not good for sum-
mer wear; consequently none are on
display, though one may have a great
variety from which to choose for the
asking. CorsetS should be laced afresh
each time they are put on. The light
er and thinner the corset the better it
is for your figure. Generous boning is
not objectionable, though one is more
supple with few whalebones. Pongee
silk or colored linen makes good
morning corsets. Ribbon is largely
utilized for golfing and bicycling cor
sets. Steady, easy pressure, gradually
increased daily, will in time produce a
slender waist. Tight lacing never ac-
complishes the feat. To the woman
who does not understand the art of
dressing would suggest that she take