The Worcester spy. [volume] (Worcester, Mass.) 1898-1904, 1899-11-19
The Tailor
Girl Must Haye
Money.
BLACK THE FAVORITE.
Mannish Shoes, Ties and
Collars Complete
the Effect.

IN ordering gowns from a Fifth avenue
tailor The effect will be entirely lost
unless attention is paid to every de-
tail of ones inner and outer dress.
As regards underwear, the first gar
ment must be a Combination" in silk,
wool or cotton, as the owner elects. The
other underclothing may be of muslin
or silk, and as expensive as desired,
but every garment must be made of
as little material as possible. All full
ness about the waist and over the hips
must be disposed of in darts The va
rlous petticoatS must be as closely and
as carefully fitted as the outside skirt
There should be no trimming except
below the knees, where any number of
furbelows are allowable The new
corsets are long over the hips and high
in the bust producing the effect of sin
uous and unbroken curves.
In spite of the effort to make color
ed fabrics predominant, the dealers ac-
knowledge that they sell more black
than all other shades put together and
next to that, for general wear, the Ok
ford and Cambridge grays The most
popular colors are the various shades
OF brown, red, blue purple and green,
either in a solid tint or in a mixture
of two. There are no crude or garish
tracttve mellowness of tone, in which
refinement is preserved, without any
loss of brilliance. The
REDS OF THE SEASON
are the deep purplish or wine shades,
automobile, mahogany and jungle
shades, according to the New York
Tribune. Oxford and porcelain are the
favorite blues. and there are several
shades of purple, all of which should
be chosen with great discretion, for
purple is the most trying of colors In
combination with other shades it is be-
coming to- nearly all compilations.
Skirts of rich plaids, with waists or
Jackets of one of the prominent tints of
the plaid, will be much worn. Shop
herds checks are also fashionable for
skirts, to be worn with plain Jackets
Handsome street costumes of
plain cheviots or serges are
made with open jackets, worn
with fitted vests of red or of a
contrasting color dotted with the color
of the costume. More dressy tailor
gowns are made of rich faced cloth in
dork colors or black, with waists SO
cut that they may be worn over fluffy
jabots of chiffon or lace. These gowns
are trimmed with braid, embroidery or
Eur, the latter applied in bands, facings,
collars and revers. Light colored fac
ed cloths are deliberately trimmed with
applique work,
FACINGS OF WHITE
cloth or satin, or are decorated with
braid and simple trimmings of fur,
In general, the rough cloths are used
for street wear, and the smooth for
calling, the matinee, etc
The newest of fall shirt waists are
made with extreme plainness, having
little fullness and no blouse effect The
fronts are tucked or gathered at the
neck, and the backs are fiat, except at
the waist line. Flannel waists, plain,
dotted or striped, are extremely popu-
lar. VelVeteen and tartan are next In
favor. All close with pearl or gilt but
tons. Many have collar, stock and tie
of the same material. Silk waists are
seen in tucked or corded effects, and all
sit smoothly in order not to interfere
with the fit of the waist
When the coat is open in front belts
with heavy silver or gilt buckles are
worn, but for close jackets the belt
should have glove clasp fastenings, ar
ranged at half-inch intervals. This
makes a perfectly fiat closing. Ribbon
belts with small but elaborate clasps
Of
GOLD. SILVER OR JEWELS,
are worn with the handsomer gowns
and to accompany silk waists There
is no end to the variety and richness of
these belt clasps. Canoes, old fash
Toned jewels and rare coins are MAIDS
to serve the purpose. A pretty waist
finish is made by tying two yards of
No, 16 ribbon twice around the waist,
stock fashion, that is, crossing it in
the back, fastening the ends in a small
bow at the left side and clasping il
With large gold safety pin.
Tailor gowns of a severe type require
mannish shoes, collars, cuffs and ties
to complete the effect. A woman now
patronizes the same haberdasher that
furnishes her male friends adorn-
ments. She buys small sizes in mems
collars, cuffs and ties. The fashion
able glove is mans pique, with stitch
ed seams and back and fastened with
two clasps. Dark red, tan or gray are
fayorite colors and pique the correct
material, except in winter, when heavy
castor gloves are more comfortable.
Shoes are high laced rather than
buttoned, broad welted soles and made
Of black calfskin for morning wear.
For afternoon they are of enamelled or
patent leather. No one now wears tan
shoes except in the country or on golf
links. With low shoes Spats are worn
to match the gown.
The tallormade girl wears little Jew
elry, but it may be as handsome as her
purse can buy. The studs to close her
shirt waist, her link cuff buttons, stick
pins, safety pins hatpins, and clasp for
stocks, may be selected to match per-
fectly. jewelers. are showing beautiful
sets in
SEMI-PRECIOUS STONES,
such as amethyst, turquoise and tur
quoise matrix, jade. moss agate, moon
stone and opal matrix. An odd but ex-
quisite set comprises four stones in vel
low tones-topaz chrysoberyl, zircon
and a yellow sapphire. Enameled lew
elry and quaint effects in Burmese and
Indian dull gold are also favorites with
women Of taste. With dressy gowns,
those worn with fluffy jabots, more ell
aborate pms may be suitably worn.
Even diamonds are not out of place
Bracelets are not advisable, and when
worn should be either fiat chain or a
thick hoop of silver. Long chains stud
ded with small gems are fashionable.
and are made to hold tiny chainpurs
lorgnette, a vinaigrette, or a good luck
charm. Some women are substituting
for the iorgnette smart but
USELESS MONOCLE.
A new yinaigrette is shaped to fit the
palm of the hand, and is slipped inside
the glove.
The only limit to the money a woman
may expend for her purse is the amount
she wishes to have left to put in it.
The newest purses are made Of I'M
dressed leather, elephant, kangaroo
lizard, pig or reindeer skin. While
many have handsome conventional
clasps of precious metal studded with
pearls, the latest purses are fastened
with buttons, having buttonholes
worked with silk. These buttons have
single jewel sunk in gold or silver,
corresponding with the trimmings of
the purse.