The evening times., 1899-10-12
CULINARY KING RANHoFER.
Once the Chef of n Washington Res
taurant.

taurant.
NEW YORK, Oct. 1.-THE death OF
Charles Ranhofer, the most influential
chief cook in the United States, for thir-
ty-four years Delmonicos chef, whose
body was borne yesterday morning to
Woodlawn Cemetery, removes from the life
of New York a personality which was
unique.
Many in all parts of the country who
are not yet old will remember when
Charles Ranhofer supervised six OF seven
dinners in as many parts OF New York
city, sent refreshments for hundreds to
the yacht races, and attended to the null
titudinous details of the kitchen of Del
monico's, all in one day. There was
nothing in culinary art which he could
not accomplish. II an order came to pre-
pare dinner within an hour he was new
er known TO fail. When citizens wished
to give banquet TO a distinguished for
eigner all that was necessary was to in
form the chef of Delmonicos OF the name
of the guest of honor and the number of
covers The menu, the decorations and
practically everything but the list of
toasts was designed by Charles Ranhofer.
When he came to New York there were
only two men cooks in the city. - He intro
duced to New Workers the most luxurious
cooking in the world. He was the origina-
tor of new dishes and new methods. He
brought to the art of cooking originality
and ready resource.
Delmonico's in those days was In Fifth
Avenue and Fourteenth Street, and the old
house was the scene of many triumphs.
Here, under the direction of Ranhofer, a
dinner was given to President Johnson,
which was for many years the talk of the
hannnQfC honor
of Professor Morse, Cyrus w. Field,
Charles Dickens. and the first Chinese
Minister Delmonico's chef had decora-
tions and a menu appropriate TO each oc-
casion. For the Chinese Minister there
were one or two Chinese dishes and pago-
das of sugar and pastry; the Dickens din
ner had a literary flavor, and at the ban
Quet given in honor of Cyrus w. Field an
instrument at the guests table clicked a
message under the seas to Queen Victoria.
Mr.. Ranhofer enjoyed the confidence of
many influential New Workers. He was
frequently called to the houses of Alex
ander T. Stewart, former Governor Levi
p. Morton, the Vanderbilts, and Lawrence
Jerome. Mr.. Jerome was accustomed to
have performances of grand opera at his
residence, and ii was no unusual thing for
him to send an order to Delmonico's at s
O'Clock in the evening for supper to be
served two hours later to 100 persons
Such a command would dismay the av
erage chef At the appointed time the
supper was served and not a knife fork
or spoon necessary had been omitted.
Charles Ranhofer was born at ST. Denis,
France, on November Z 1856. He was a
cook by heredity, his grandfather and his
father, who was the proprietor of the
Restaurant du Commerce, being famous
chefs. He was sent 10 Paris when twelve
years old TO learn the art of pastry max
ing in the establishment of NJ Fleuret.
He completed his apprenticeship there at
the age of fifteen years, and went 10 NJ.
Mercier. for whom he became baker in
chief. He afterward went to the restau-
rant OF NJ. Malpiece. When sixteen years
old he was taken b. the well known chef,
MOllard, into the service of Prince Henin.
Mollard resigned his place and young Ran
hofer was left in charge of the kitchen
He arrived in New York in August. 1856
He was employed by the Russian consul
general, then living in Astor Place. and
afterward became chef of a well-known
restaurant in Washington. He also was
for a time in the employ of Creole mer-
chant in New Orleans. He went back to
Paris in 1860, and after year returned to
New York. He was engaged by the Del
comicos in 1862, and remained in their en-
ploy until the time of his death, with the
exception of the years 1S76-7S
Perhaps the best-known of the dishes
which Ranhofer made popular was lobster
a la Newburg. The recipe was suggested
to him by dish prepared by Mr. Wenhurg,
patron of Delmonico's. NJ Ranhofer per-
fected the formula, and introduced the dish
in 1876 at banquet given at the Centen-
nial at Newburg, N. Y.
MIR. Ranhofer had a talent for organiza-
tion. His staff of cooks consisted of forty
two persons, and he knew Just what each
man was doing and how soon he ought to
do it.
In all the affairs of the French colony
here Mr.. Ranhofer took a prominent part.
He founded the Societe Culinare Philan-
thropique, VIII ch includes many ell known
chefs. He was the honorary president of
the organization at the Tina of hic doath