The Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1890-1906, 1899-05-14
CABANAS and A|)RRO
What a Visit Into Their Sub
terranean Depths Reveals,
WORST HORRORS HIDDEN
Implements of Torture Re-
moved Before the..Surrender.

aspired 70 make a walking tour Of the
neon as a visit with notebook and camera
TO the interior of Moro and Cabanas.
Evenunder the new American regime il
was equally impossible in war time, and
now nobody is admitted without a special
pass. countersigned by some commanding
officer
Last Sunday it was my good fortune 10
be one of a party which spent the day
exploring these two oldest of SPANS forti-
fications in Cuba. First came the long
car ride-forty minutes from our suburban
residence to the other side of the city;
past General Ludlow's headquarters and
Bianco's late ''alacio." and the new Amer
lean postOffice. swarming with cur eager
countrymen. Past the Columbus eathe-
dral, where the great admiral no longer
SEES from which waves of melody were
rolling like pillows upon a shore. Past
thousands of good Catholics. mostly wom-
en-, strolling leisurely 10 mathis; mendi-
cants making stock trade Of their sores
and infrmities, and stalwart Yankee sen
SPANS .H-fed boy soldiers YEARLY
marched to ana fro. Past long lines of
tail, with red, blue and yellow tassels ar
brass; trains of heavily-laden bullock
carts. each cor, patient beast with a chain
passed through his nose and head bowed
TO the dust by the weight Of wood upon
his horns. Past men and women strum-
ming upon guitars in squatted homes. or
sitting idly in open doors, apparently with
out care in the world, while dirty chill
dren played around them naked as the
minute they We're born; past all the quaint
and varied street life of this old town.
which TO American eyes is yet as oddly
foreign as the remotest corner of Europe.
Speaking of unclothed children. reminds
me Of an order promulgated not long ago
by the government, regulatin nakedness
in Havana horse-cars and omnibuses.
Though both vehicles charge the same
amount of fare, the bug-infested buses
have come to be considered second
class, because most generally patronized
by the poorest who can afford to ride.
while those somewhat higher IN the social
scale confne themselves to the cars. The
order above mentioned drew the lines of
caste stiN more closely by forbidding
naked children and men without shirts to
enter the cars, but not debarring them
mon thing TO see a man. clad only in
cotton trousers, hat and shoes. or child
airily attired in a necklace, perched aloft
IN the swayng coach. which holds twelve
by close crowiing Everywhere in Cuba
one sees children up to 8 or s years OF
age stark naked in the streets. often led
by their parents for a promenade: and in
the rural districts they Derambulate in a
state Of nature TO a considerable later age
II IS noticeable that the children of we'll
TODD families sometimes wear socks and
shoes. but nothing else. American teach
ers, under the new scholo system. find no
end of trouble with this question Of
clothes. sending home all whose human
form divine is not at least artiafly COW
cred. to the surprise and indignation Of
the-r parents. Remembering how poor
children in the north go barefooted in the
summer time, oven to school. the teachers
have gently suggested 10 the mothers that
the money spent for shoes might better
be put into shirts and trousers. but 50
far without avail. the shoes being consid-
cred necessary; the shirts superf1ous
Arrived at the waters edge-a quarter
Of mile from the cathedral door and
within a stones toss Of the new postoffice
we secured one Of the chicken-coo boats
that constantly ply the bay. They are all
of the same antique pattern. brought from
Southern Spain in some previous century:
and for dos reales cada uno 30 cents each
person. the scarlet-capped Catalan boat
man agreed to row US across the inter
vening stretch Of water TO the fortress
nearest the city Moro castle, on the
farther point, was Intended only for de-
Tense, while the larger and nearer Ca
banas served also as aprison for political
offenders. The former antidates the lat
ter by more than half a century. but
looks much newer. because its walls II
pale gray coquina-the coral rock that
underlies the island--is today as fresh as
ever and the American authorities have
just completed its renovation. outside and
in. with lavish use of lime and whitewash.
Ca5anas. its painted walls now streaked
and notified with mold and weather stains
IS yet comparatively untouched. and
happily for curiosity hunters. If not for
health-all its older horrors remain abOu,
as the SPaniarGs left them. It's massive
battlements. with their faded piHks and
yeilows a tower straight up from deep,
dry moat. unscalab.e by man or beast.
and inclosing space enough for a good
sized town. Having exhibited oDr permit
TO the sentry We crossed the king
draworidee and wa.kd up a sharply-slop-
ing. winding road, paved with small.
sharp stones that bruised the fset Ike
peas IN the shoes OF pentents. To and
wavs within range of o0-tholes ard serl-
try-ooxes. whose p-otruding guns might
easily rake the attn u intrudsrs. and fancy
c7rju-ad uD a myriad unhappy ghosts that
have passed this canine d0loroso-home-
sick boy c1nzcr.pts from Spaln. fighting
an unweicou7e cause and hesvE-hearge5
prisoners who never returned
The view from the summit repay~ TIE
to5Lsone ciimb-narvJx. close1 y-huit cstr
streets criss-cro7se5 Ike . gigantic cheek
er35zr5 zrh c1uTca towers ard palm I
trees ard TIE white camps o. America 1
lroops f1- paw1s. Regia- Guanzhscoa. 4
Vidado Marianoa- jesus De- Monte ard /
otaer handsome suburbs; the ris-eTse Bay
crowded Ns,h shipping IN ~ach ussray (
every fse IN The World : seen but fnat &
90 Spa-n. ard outlining az. The ocesr
Here wa ware hated ~ ether ssutlaeis /
ard re-7lezte5 20 STAY w5Ee cor passes /
we're sent forward 70 - approv5 ~ Ire /
officer y re day Whas TaiflnE Ne
tu-re1 --,1 e55e eanTou-1lks rsssaze /
s9ruef 5y 8,-s7at high watts q pakash 1
o-ss-e- dauase rew 81 strntsa oaks 4
q wig z9aG tsa u5sa Tread softly (
tor This rs aalsqvre5 ground A. a glance 7
none cso .sl 20 -eEze fha gr1@soue
2,acs- B.eas--H.ga. - scta ez -
sails are perpered E-ta small c-c1z-
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sszTt-rEly rand ard 81 an-wztered ~ re
BOD q rnar.yrs- Efers tlsousaeiss uzs1-