The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1899-08-20

sprouting from their rear breaGths, and
what are these waterproof trains for but
to protect the delicate dress-lengths to
be inevitably dragged all winter beneath
them: Plead and push your way into the
sancturls where rich importations lie in
fine shrouds of tissuepaper, preparatory
to September openings in the big shops,
and there you will see long silk and satin
and brccade, or else solid fur cloaks and
capes with trains Of great dimensions. In
the same places many model gowns can
be peeped at, and not enc of them, save
in details, has any special news to con-
vey.
The overskirts are very long. In fact.
they are not overskirts in the accepted
sense at all, but ill-shaped petticoats cut
up in two, five, or seven points below the
knee, and these points are backed upon
a shaped and trimmed underfounce that
Stimulates an underskirt For three long
years now, season in and season out the
dressmakers have been trying to forco
in purely Princess cut skirt and body
in one, and they are nearer the achieve
ment of their object than ever before,
though here and thera costume with
short Empire turns up and might be &C
cepted as a portent of the future.
Touching the details of the autumn stuff
dresses, it is well to mention that a note
of scarlet occurs again and again on the
beaver-brown, beetle-green and smoky
gray cloth dresses which get a great deal
Of their ornamentation from close-run
rows of stitchings, or, what is newer, fiat
wool or silk braid put on with machine
stitching that shows. Another salient
point, but not novel one, in the cloth
suits is a big pointed revers or Il pair of
revers folded back over the bust. Last
winter one large revers faced with satin
and overlaid with lace was the proper in
splration; now we have two revers, and
they are faced with MORE silk, usually
OF ivory white.
Turn the gowns inside out, and you will
find the lining done with a thick soft
MORE, black or white, in preference to
taffeta, and the bottom of the silk slip
skirt is finished always with a five-inch
wide killed f1ounce of MORE, pinked along
the edge. So far as can be seen, there
is to be the usual neck finish to all these
pseudo tailor gowns of fluffy lace and
chiffon in cravat arrangement, and high
bright collars of various silky fabrics are
to be part and parcel of the exact autumn
nal livery
Between the shutting off of muslin and
foulard and the laying aside of straw and
midseason to be reckoned with in the
fall before heavy woollen gowns can be
assumed. This year the Indian summer
of clothes is to be made memorably beau
tiful with costumes of woolIy crepon and
fine wool grenadines, etamine and alba
tross cloth in a series of charming grays
and greens and old porcelain-blue tones.
Used through the first period of transit
ton from summer to fall, these gowns
later on will be worn in the house and
the theater. Really nothing could be more
attractive than the figured tamines and
the crepons embossed in finely intricate
silk patterns and the light, smooth-faced
woods that show rough knots Of silk on
their surface.
To treat these fabrics with incrustations
Of lace is the sympathetic idea, and no
more charming picture can be contured UP
than an old rose or white etamine, en-
HANGED with inset wreaths Of black Lux
ieUl lace. These dress themes are design
ed especially to accord with the toques
woven Of bright straw and black velvet
ribbon, adorned with q Whit OF tulle and
a couple of tinted wings. A wrap for
such a dress is always a short cape of
goods to match the gown, figured over
and over with very narrow bullion braid
in somewhat Oriental pattern. Inside
on the smooth silk lining are run rows
upon rows of narrow lace Of chiffon