The times., 1899-08-13

ing wound with heavy woollen "puttleS,"
those admirable bandages which take the
place OF leggings with the English army in
India. and vita some of the mOuntaineers
Of Europe. My travelling bag gave up
sweater, and my finished appearance led
bystander 10 compliment me upon my close
resemblance TO a Corsican bTigand OF the
most malevolent type. But an attractive
personal appearance is very far from a sine
qua non on that kind of a trip, and FIVE
minutes walk from the hotel put US where
there were none to see or TO criticise any
way. A possible exception 10 that existed
in the shape of some possible mountain
sheep or goat which the guide told me were
to be seen in the vicinity occasionally
The anomaly OF the hotel surroundings
was lost as we entered the woods. At the
buildings We left a combination of warm
/ sunshine, green grass, wild flowers, foun-
tains and occasional winter. The snow lay
in depth varying from two TO any number
of feet. The spring warmth had reached
it sufficiently for melting in exposed spots,
and for turning all the surface into moist
mass of coarse granulation, into which
even the big boots sank to a depth which
made heavy walking. Occasionally, by
reason of melting underneath, caused by
running water, one sank midleg, and even
waist deep with a plunge which was by no
means pleasant. The way followed up the
valley along the course of rushing torrents.
whose source was the glacier above. They
reared and fumed down their steep bed,
to find their way eventually into the Co
lumbia River and so on into the Pacific
Ocean.
About one and three quarters miles from
the hotel, a large rock bears a painted in
scription Sixty feet to snout." BY this
euphonious title is meant the terminal
point of the glacier. Our path to it had
taken US through a forest Of tall frs,
straight as Indian arrows. We crossed
the plunging streams on rude bridges, and
emerged at last upon the snow and rock
covered moraine at the foot of the 'snout,"
which appears to be variable point
Some years it advances. other years it re-
cedes. But always behind it, pushing its
mighty mass downward to be melted and
transformed from picturesque ice structure
into even more picturesque tumbling and
whirling mountain streams, comes the
snowmoving bulk of the glacier.
Although I strongly suspect that there
was modicum of ''poppycock" about it,
at the foot OF the snow covered slope the
guide unlimbered the coil of rope which he
carried and we were duly roped up. Some
how it gave me the feeling of being led
like a little dog on the end of string. The
rope may have been desirable. and il may
have been necessary. The guide said that
be dangerous We did pass number of
spots over which he felt his way with
caution, and we crossed two or three mar
row but deep assures which were any
thing but inviting hiding places.
The time at my disposal did not permit
an ascent to the crest of the range, but
did attain a point which the guide said
was 1900 feet above the hotel The hotel
itself is given as 4 122 feet above the sea
"a viz haItinp
superbly grand. In all directions were
snow-covered peaks. domes and ranges.
Facing northward, in front of us stretched
the Hermit Range; on the right, the tow
ering peak of Sir Donald and the only less
lofty Eagle Peak; TO the left rose the pyr-
amid of Cheops, glistening white as the
MONDAY sun. 1t was a scene of marvel
Gus grandeur There was no long-range
view All lowered near at hand and hid
that which lay beyond. Around US as we
stood were the huge masses of upheaved
ice forms in rough and fantastic blocks,
some white with snow. some of clear pale
emerald ice Wherever the eye rested
near or far there was beauty, marvel and
grandeur 1t was one of those scenes from
which one turns because he must, but
turns with unspeakable reluctance
The ascent had been slow process of
going up steep flight of stairs, and max
ing the stairs, as one must upward by
stamping the toe of ones boots into the
yielding snow. The descent was more
rapid; sometimes we walked in long
strides; sometimes we leaped. on sleeper
slopes, with still longer strides The cover
ing of snow was too soft and deep for the
glssade. but we had occasional opportuni-
ty to do toboggan in proper toboggan atti-
tued-but minus the toboggan. We took
one drop of fifty feet over a bank which
needed but smart kick at its base to
make it perpendicular. That slide con-
sisted of few minutes of careful prepara-
ton on the brink. a yell of excitement,
whizz and the extrication from snow
bank at the bottom Ascent. descent, and
the halt at the top consumed only four
hours.
The appetite which I acquired was soon
satisfied. The face burned by the sun glare
will quickly heal The memory of it all
will stay, and some day l want TO go back
there and climb Sir Donald.