The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1899-05-21

fabric and 81 lining silk than to pay 65
cents for the silk and 81 for the outside
material. Percaline is considered by. the
dressmakers one of the most enduring
and satisfactory substitutes for silk in
gown of WOOL and French lawn under
organdie, batiste or other transparent
fabric. Sateen In colors is liked by many
modistes, also silesia of the finer grades.
Very few shot or fancy silks are now
used for Innings. and, while pale tints of
vivid puppies or reds are seen on certain
gowns, TO carry out a special color
scheme, preference is decidedly given to
the refined selection of a lining silk of
deeper or slightly lighter shade than that
of the gown
Big rosettes of tulle that resemble, In
deed, nothing so much as big roses are
put on little rough straw hats. This is
the arrangement, and you need not be in
the least afraid to attempt it yourself:
A width of tulle is laid in loose folds and
caught at the back of the hat. The ends
are brought around to the front and
twisted into two big rosettes that just
touched. Jabbed into the head of one of
the rosettes is long pin with big Jet
or jeweled head. Before the rosettes are
made the tulle is folded over and over
and then rolled up and sewed fast. The
roSetteS are but a continuation of the
tulle strip, as they are not cut off. Two
yards and half of tulle are required for
this trimming. The hat to be trimmed in
the described fashion should be of the
short-backed sailor style and be worn
slightly tilted over the face. Though
tulle is delicate and perishable trim
ming, 1t forms one of the simplest and
most desirable decorations for practi-
cal little straw hat like the one described,
as it can easily be replaced and is so
MI IN ha
to the more costly and elegant millinery
features.
On many of the new light-faced tailor
costumes for the summer machine stitch
ing and cloth strappings seem to be Civ
ing way TO somewhat more fanciful
trimming of rows of silk or mohair braid,
with buttons to match. No matter what
the season is the one indispensable gown
in the wardrobe is a tailor-finished cos
tune Of good practical wearing fabric
There are many cool days and evenings
during the summer when they prove most
comfortable and they are never out of
place during railway journey any more
than is a gentleman's summer tweed or
serge suit, for if the weather proves sui
try the jacket can be removed and the
Wearer be as comfortable as possible in
the waSh-Silk or lawn shirtWaist worn be-
meath. The skirt is more serviceable If
1t is made of cloth or wool of some de-
scription that will not easily wrinkle or
spot, and many light woods are really
more endurable and actually cooler than
closely woven linen or pique
Gowns of grass linen are prettier when
trimmed with insertions of white lace and
finished with wide plaitings of white ba-
tiste. The under-slip should be a color
preferably a tender green. The crayat
which trims many a foulard bodice is
usually knotted twice, once at the base
Nv Of
about which 1t Is worn, once again lower
down before the ends are thrust under
the belt or left hanging broad and
pointed or rounded and hemmed
Hemmed black satin is almost as effec-
tive for cravat as stitched black velvet.
A cravat of black taffeta with a corded
edge is fetching on frock of white mus
lin incrusted with black ChantilIy lace, a
layer of thin black gauze hanging be-
tween the lace-trimmed top and it's final
rose muslin lining, which saves it from
any suggestion of mourning
A very pretty dress was recently con-
structed for a little over 81. The skirt
was made with a sham and oversktrt,
the sham being covered only halfway
with the plaid cores of an old skirt The
cverSklrt was plain and cut circular TAX
Ing only one and half yards of fifty
'1our-lnch wide material The waist was
made of the plain, with yoke of the
plaid-taken from the tops of the old
gores-back and front and sleeve tons
the same depth to match, the remainder
of the sleeve being plain The belt was
also of plaid and a snail circular piece
around the hand was of plaid lined with
the plain. Two yards Of plain green dress
goods and q cheap percalIne lining was
all that was bought new and the dress
was very tasty and might we'll be termed
a stunning gown From an Old green
CD irf o1o{
made and there was purchased for the
lining two yards @of a pretty plaid per-
callre that looked like silk and cost only
~ cents, the pattern &c cents making so
cents as the entire cost of a stylish Jack
ct for morning wear. The jacket was
nEBde with a yoke in the back, from which
hung loosely the full box-plainted back
This was made from one piece of the old
skirt back and, being a little too narrow
for the full back, it was pieced under
each arm, where 1T scarcely showed The
TWO side cores of the skirt and the other
gore from the back cut the loose box
plated fronts without yoke and the
sleeves, which were plain with little full
ness at the top, were pieced at the hand
about two or three inches from the bot
tom and trimmed to hide seams with
three rows of black braid, wide braid
being laid over the seam and q narrow
one above and below the wide one The
back yoke was trimmed across with two
rows OF braid, one wide and the other
narrow, and the entire jacket was trim
med with one row of braid an inch wide
and sewed on about an inch from the
edge. The jecket was finished with
choker of black satin ribbon. The lining
was not tight, but the same as the out
side, and 1t gave it the appearance of a
silk lining. which looked very attractive.
The braid was taken from an old basque
very pretty section cape was made of
small pieces of old black velvet, the best
pieces being used and steamed TO look
new and fresh. 1t was cut circular, but
in sections, each seam trimmed with